A sailor-boy's log-book from Portsmouth to the Peiho

By Walter White

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Title: A sailor-boy's log-book from Portsmouth to the Peiho

Editor: Walter White

Release date: November 24, 2025 [eBook #77313]

Language: English

Original publication: London: Chapman & Hall, 1862

Credits: Brian Coe, Terry Jeffress, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A SAILOR-BOY'S LOG-BOOK FROM PORTSMOUTH TO THE PEIHO ***




[Illustration: Portrait]




 A
 SAILOR-BOY’S LOG-BOOK
 FROM
 PORTSMOUTH TO THE PEIHO.


 EDITED BY
 WALTER WHITE,

 AUTHOR OF A “MONTH IN YORKSHIRE,” “ALL ROUND THE WEEKIN,”
 AND OTHER BOOKS OF TRAVEL.


 “Our captain sails where’er he pleases,
 And catches Tartars or Chineses;
 Say but the word and he’s your man
 To treat or trade with shy Japan.”


 LONDON:
 CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY.
 1862.




 C. WHITING, BEAUFORT HOUSE, STRAND.




FOREWORD BY THE EDITOR.


This book is what it purports to be: the work of one who entered
the navy as a boy, went through the rudiments with more or less of
satisfaction; sailed to China, where he smelt powder in the capture of
Canton and the disastrous attempt to take the Taku forts; then visited
Japan, and returned home a smart young topman. He kept a “log,” as he
calls it, during his term of service; and my editing has consisted,
for the most part, in persuading him to copy his log twice over, with
such advice as to suppression, elucidation, coherence, and consistency
as was required for the presentation of the narrative in a readable
form. Apart from this, I thought it best that the young fellow, who
has some capability for telling a story, should tell it in his own
way; especially as a boy’s opinions, in their total disregard of
consequences, charm us by their freshness and sincerity.

It is not often that we get a narrative of sea-life from the lower-deck
of a Queen’s ship. The quarter-deck has told us the tale many a time,
and we know pretty well what its experiences are, and what it thinks
about seamen and the service generally, and about foreign countries:
here we have the tale told from a subordinate point of view--the
lower-deck telling us what it thinks of the quarter-deck--and with
somewhat of the rough outspoken commentary and criticism habitual with
mariners. It is oftentimes profitable to hear both sides of an argument.

For boys who have a longing for the sea this book may prove
instructive. They will find herein information about the course of
training through which a sailor-boy must pass, and the trials that
he may expect to meet with; about his conflict with wind and water,
his robust duties, dangerous adventures, and boisterous recreations;
about his weeks of wearisome idleness that breed discontent, and
the opportunities afforded him for seeing the world. But it must be
confessed that the book does not present us with an attractive picture
of the naval service; partly from the very nature of the circumstances
in which it originated; partly from the author’s habit of regarding
the state of his own feelings as of primary importance. He had not
then discovered that resolute fulfilment of duty is sweeter far than
happiness.

Nevertheless, I heartily recommend this little book, feeling assured
that if only because of its honesty, it well deserves any word that I
can say in its favour.

                                                                 W. W.

_London, October, 1862._




CONTENTS.


 CHAPTER I.
                                                                    PAGE
 Why I went into the Navy; and how--To Portsmouth--The
    old Guardho--Well, Youngster! what do you want?--The
    Main-deck--Encouraging Reception--Agree to enter for
    Ten Years--A hard Supper, and harder Pillow--Turning
    in and turning out--Rouse and Bit--A Chance for a
    Wash--Pipe to Breakfast--What the Doctor said--I am
    passed--Starboard and Port--Knots and Hitches--Handling a
    Boat--Feather and Toss--My first Uniform--A Ditty-box--The
    Mast-head--Cutlass Drill--Rifle Drill--Big Gun
    Exercise--Splices, left-handed Eyes, Matthew Walker, and
    Turk’s Head--Old Pipes--Hawser-eye and Dead-eye--Compass
    and Lead-line--The _Sealark_--Sore Feet--A Day’s Work--Out
    on a Cruise--Distress--The wrong Signal--Return to the
    Guardho--The _Highflyer_--Are you Napoleon Bonyparte?--A
    Lambasting                                                          1


 CHAPTER II.

 At Spithead--Admiral’s Inspection--Sail to Plymouth--Departure
    from England--My first Look-out--How to see--Phosphorescent
    Waves--Making Sail--Our two Gun-boats--The _Plover’s_
    Hawser breaks--A Growl--Calms and Breezes--A Day’s
    Routine--Work and Watches--Land ho! The Peak of
    Teneriffe--Anchor off Santa Cruz--A Run on Shore--Mules,
    Fishwomen, and Shopkeepers--To Sea again--A Taste of
    Black List--Strike me lucky--Guy Fawkes--Equatorial
    Weather--Coming down anyhow--A Bit of Fun--Buckets and
    Hoses--A Drencher for Captain and Chaplain--Cross the
    Line--Shaving and Bathing--Besiegers and Besieged--An
    Officer’s Honour, and a Pig’s Feathers--Make him speak,
    Bull-dogs--Shipmates and Messmates--A rough Lick and Black
    List                                                              21


 CHAPTER III.

 Cape Frio--Arrive at Rio de Janeiro--Magnificent
    Harbour--An Hour on Shore--Crucifix-bearers--Wooden
    Collars--The Captain’s good Advice--Christmas
    Day--Plum-duff--Close-reefed Topsails--A Sight of Tristan
    de Acunha--The Gun-boats cast off--Algoa Bay--Foul
    Weather--Money landed in Surf-boats--Port Elizabeth at
    a Distance--Discontent--Natal--A Snuffler--Simon’s Bay,
    Cape of Good Hope--Romantic Scene--Bullock-wagons--A
    brooming Party--Savage Landscape--A good Word for
    Government--Sailors’ Orchards--A fresh Departure--Four
    Gun-boats--A Truant--Strait of Sunda--Boatswain
    Birds--Anjeer--Java--Sumatra--Singapore--Something to laugh
    at--Waterspout--Arrival at Hong-Kong--The Letter-bag--News
    from Home                                                         37


 CHAPTER IV.

 The Pratta Shoal--The Wreck--The Pirates--Another
    Wreck--Prospect of Hong-Kong--Wantchee Dinner--Up the
    River--Bocca Tigris--Getting it properly--A Chinese
    Landscape--Plenty of Swamp-seed--Our Anchorage--Boats to
    Fatsan--A Dose for the Longtails--A dark Watch--Capture
    of Chuenpee--Trophies: unboiled Goat and boiled
    Rice--Chasing a Pirate--Bird-scarers--Alarm of
    Fire--Inspection by Admiral Sir Michael Seymour--The
    Growlers pacified--Crickets and Bullfrogs--Theatrical
    Amusement--Discontent--Drop down the River--A
    Funeral--Hong-Kong, and a Run on Shore--A Prospect--The
    old Anchorage again--Flogging and Tail-lopping--Rowing
    Guard-boat--Cooking and Story-telling--A Sanpan of
    Thieves--Prizes without Profit--A Grumble--See-no-more’s
    Fund                                                              54


 CHAPTER V.

 Ho! for Canton--The Bombardment commences--Howling--Our
    Landing--The rough March--Our first Brush with Johnny--The
    Bivouac--Our strange Position--On Picket--Shells
    and Rockets--Hot Tea and no Sleep!--What I thought
    about--Come on, my Lads--A nasty Hero--The Rendezvous--Our
    Advance--Scaling the Walls--Jamming a Frenchman--Five
    Pounds for a Flag!--Inside the Walls--Wanton firing--A
    Charge--Wounded Natives--Scorching Explosions--Canton
    ours--Marooning and Feasting--Cries of Distress--Chinese
    Girl--A Rescue--The Provost-marshal--Stop! or I’ll fire--An
    Escape--Horrid Prisons--Yeh’s Slaughter-ground--Competitive
    Headsmen--Mandarin Funeral--A white Affair and rather
    jolly--Body-guard and Musicians--A good Son--On Board a
    Junk--Return to our Ship                                          71


 CHAPTER VI.

 More Grumbling--Sailing Orders: Hurrah!--A Trial of
    Patience--Sail from Hong-Kong for Shanghai--Beating past
    Formosa--Danger ahead--’Bout Ship--An anxious Moment--The
    Danger escaped--Woosung--Anchor at Shanghai--The Nobs--Life
    in the Streets--Coolie Jams--Sedan-bearers’ Salutes--Shops
    and Shopkeepers--Buddhist Temple--The Worshippers--Ogling
    and carving--Divination by Sticks--Big Ear and Big
    Eye--Yankee Rowdies--Broken Heads--Hot Weather--Patience
    rewarded--A Parcel from Home--An Alarm--Attempt
    at Murder--Feeders on Christians--You English one
    Rogue--Fern Tea--Carrion Food--A Rat Scramble--Sea
    Spawn--Chinese and English Landscapes--Chinese Painters
    and Pile-drivers--Fourth of July--Dogs and Sailors classed
    together--A Warning to Old Ugly--Funeral Rites                    87


 CHAPTER VII.

 The Dead Sister’s Plate and Chopsticks--Tremendous Feat--A
    Chinese Theatre--Poor Stuff--The Mail--Excitement--The
    Rush for Jondy--Do your Duty, come what may--One
    Piecey English Thief--Nigpoo Tom--Brawling
    Boatmen--Baby Boatmen--Buoys for Baby-boys--Pastimes--A
    Cruise for Health--Lucong--Picturesque
    Scenery--Forget-me-not--Hospitable Cottagers--Their
    Dinner--Libations of Samshu--Seamen’s Distraction--Lucong
    Farmers--Thrashing Machine--The Joss-house--A
    Surprise--More Hospitality--A Dinner in Public--Number
    One Piecey--A Party for the _Inflexible_--Help for
    _Laplace_--Ingenious Steering Contrivance--Towing a Cripple      107


 CHAPTER VIII.

 Preparing to tow--A Squabble--Drifting astern--Ease her!
    Stop her!--Coutez la Rope--Return to Shanghai--Another
    Christmas--New Year’s Day--Cold Weather--Freezing
    a Brass Monkey--Feast of Lanterns--Millions of
    Lights--Unfair Dealing--The unlucky Jeweller--Unlucky
    Greengrocer--Unworthy Englishmen--English
    Talkee--Chin-chin, Jack--Consequences of Idleness--Rambles
    on Shore--A Lower-deck at Dinner-time--Criticism on
    Beef--Yankee Navy _versus_ English Navy--A royal Reason
    why--The First Lord and the Grub--A Man of Bread--A few
    Remarks about Food--Very nice Meat--Night Quarters--A
    Broadside--Uproar--Obeying Instructions--Another Alarm--All
    adrift--A Yankee Skipper                                         121


 CHAPTER IX.

 Anticipations of Work--The _Powhattan’s_ Salute--Sail for the
    Peiho--Excitement on Board--Arrival of Mr. Bruce--Interview
    with the Chinese Commandant--We embark--Advance to the Taku
    Forts--Attempt to blow up the Barrier--What old Archie
    said--Gun-boats under Way--A Jam--Well done, _Opossum_--The
    saucy _Plover_--We join the _Starling_--Aground hard and
    fast--The Fight begins--Dodging the Cannon-balls--Well
    done, _Cormorant_!--Smart Work--We pull to the
    Admiral--Death at my Elbow--At it again--Lie down,
    Men!--Unlucky Teapot--The Landing-party--We pull to the
    Shore--Death in the Mud--Hit by a Shot--The wounded
    Officer--Death in the Rushes--The Don’t-care Feeling--The
    Retreat--Light-balls--A terrible Trudge--Don’t care
    again--A narrow Escape--A Sip of Life--The Boats at
    last--Sleepers in the Gun-boat                                   135


 CHAPTER X.

 The _Banterer’s_ Deck--An ugly Sight--Sad Thoughts--Saying
    their Say--Jack’s Opinion of the Admiral--The Killed
    and Wounded--What they killed each other for--The
    Forts again--Battering the _Banterer_--Long Tom--Woe
    to the _Nimrod_--The last Shot--Spare the Dead--In we
    go again--Chinaman’s Triumph--Night Work--The British
    Flag and Sam Collinson--Snarling Forts--Burning the
    _Plover_--The Admiral’s Thanks and Jack’s Growl--We return
    to Shanghai--Sham Sympathisers                                   156


 CHAPTER XI.

 Disturbance in the City--Armed Patrol--The Club-house--A
    luxurious Breakfast--A Word for Growlers--Another
    Disturbance--Drifting and Howling--Down in the Dust--A
    Buster of Coffee--An Attack of Ophthalmia--Good News--Hey!
    for Japan--Vladimir Bay--Grand Scenery--A Fishing
    Party--Merry Hauling--An unstiffened Lieutenant--Fine
    Salmon--Toad-fish--Slime-dabs--Native Fishermen--A fine
    Place for Robinson Crusoe--Off Nagasaki--A beautiful
    Coast--A charming Harbour--At Anchor                             166


 CHAPTER XII.

 My first Walk in Japan--A Paradise after China--Clean
    Streets--Clean Houses--Hard Beds--Policemen--A
    Temple--Queer Worship--Chanting and Drumming--The
    exhorting Gong--English much goodee--Kanagawa--Hospitable
    Population--The Baths and Dress--On Shore at
    Yeddo--The Tycoon’s Palace--Water-Nymphs--Sandalled
    Horses--Bakers--Cheap Fare and Fruit--Hakodadi--Stoned
    Roofs--Fish caught by Noise--Huckster-boats--Custom-house
    Officers--The Governor’s Visit--The State Barge--A Party
    for the Burial-ground--The Sacred Fire--The ancient
    Fireman--Pack-horses--A grateful Kiss--Flagstaff and Salute      175


 CHAPTER XIII.

 Departure from Hakodadi--The _Highflyer_ aground--Kanagawa
    again--Japanese Diet and Junks--Rowing anyhow--Domestic
    Life--Hatred of Chinamen--What the Highflyers
    thought--Departure--Touch at Shanghai--Hong-Kong: a
    Disappointment--Growling with a Cause--Our Captain goes
    Home--Up to Whampoa--Our new Captain--A Dab-down--The
    Mud Dock Builders--Study under Difficulties--Messmates
    and Crossmates--The Admiral’s Visit--My Messmates--A
    Run on French Island--Cotton-cleaning--Warlike
    Preparations--Scenes on Shore                                    191


 CHAPTER XIV.

 A few Words to Boys who want to go to
    Sea--Characteristics--Talk about Books--Swallowing
    a Johnson--Sneaking from Church--Seamen’s
    Prayer--Disreputable Officers--The Servants not the
    Service--Man the Ropes--The Lieutenant’s Dog--Craft on
    the Creeks--The Tax-boat--Canoes and Capers--Rambles in
    Canton--Deities for Sale--False Tails--Street Gamblers--A
    Sing-song--The Temple of Five Hundred Gods--The City Wall
    and Scenes beheld therefrom--French Headquarters--Yeh’s
    Park--A threatened Flogging--Our Chaplain                        209


 CHAPTER XV.

 An agreeable Surprise--Ordered to Swatow--Pirates--The weary
    Anchorage again--Pay-day and Auction Sales--Relief at
    last--Happy Highflyers--Departure from Whampoa--Hurrah
    for Home!--Working with a Will--Departure from
    Hong-Kong--Caught in a Cyclone--The Trades--Glorious
    Sailing--The _Roman Emperor_--Do you want the
    Longitude?--Snarley-yow’s Growl--Simon’s Bay--Departure
    from the Cape--The Long Pig or the Short Pig?--The Bill of
    Portland--Anchor at Spithead--Wives and Sweethearts--Joys
    and Sorrows--The Chaplain’s Advice--Pay-day and
    Liberty--Home--Getting a Discharge--Conclusion                   228


  APPENDIX                                                           246




A SAILOR-BOY’S LOG-BOOK.




CHAPTER I.

 Why I went into the Navy; and how--To Portsmouth--The
    old Guardho--Well, Youngster! what do you want?--The
    Main-deck--Encouraging Reception--Agree to enter for Ten Years--A
    hard Supper, and harder Pillow--Turning in and turning out--Rouse
    and Bit--A Chance for a Wash--Pipe to Breakfast--What the Doctor
    said--I am passed--Starboard and Port--Knots and Hitches--Handling
    a Boat--Feather and Toss--My first Uniform--A Ditty-box--The
    Mast-head--Cutlass Drill--Rifle Drill--Big Gun Exercise--Splices,
    left-handed Eyes, Matthew Walker, and Turk’s Head--Old
    Pipes--Hawser-eye and Dead-eye--Compass and Lead-line--The
    _Sealark_--Sore Feet--A Day’s Work-Out on a Cruise--Distress--The
    wrong Signal--Return to the Guardho--The _Highflyer_--Are you
    Napoleon Bonyparte?--A Lambasting.


Like many an English boy who quits school and the playground for the
counter or workshop, I did not find it at all easy to settle down, for
I had devoured _Robinson Crusoe_ and not a few books of travel and wild
adventure, and thought ploughing the main and seeing foreign countries
would suit me much better than learning how to sell locks and hinges,
kettles and scythes. Persuasion was tried on me as it has been and
will be on others; but I was not to be persuaded, having made up my
mind to become a sailor. So on a very cold winter day, which seemed to
chill my naval ardour, as the third-class train rolled leisurely to its
destination, I presented myself at the admiral’s office in Portsmouth
dockyard, holding in my hand a small trunk, which contained my little
stock of clothing and sundries, and was forthwith sent away in a boat
to the _Illustrious_, training-ship, which lay moored about half a
mile from the shore. I was surprised, not to say startled, to see how
big the old Guardho looked as we drew near, and might have indulged
a little sentiment, but the men rowing to the foot of the gangway on
the port side (there was a proper stair on the starboard side), cried,
“Now, my lad, up ye go.” It wouldn’t do, I thought, to hesitate; so
taking my trunk in one hand, and seizing the man-rope with the other,
I scrambled up what then seemed to me a dangerous wooden wall. It was
an awkward way of beginning a new career, and not very encouraging; for
no friendly welcome awaits the novice who wishes to serve his Queen and
fight for his country. It was getting dark; the deck appeared deserted:
I could see lights gleaming from below, and hear a confused hum of
voices; and I stood shivering, uncertain what to do, when the old
quartermaster of the watch came up and accosted me: “Well, youngster,
what do you want?”

“I want to be a sailor,” I answered, very innocently. The old fellow
chuckled at my answer, as though he had said, “Another simpleton
caught by a biscuit!” and bade me come below; an order which I obeyed
with alacrity, or rather ‘smartly,’ and dodged the footsteps of my
rough guide. We got on the main-deck, where I for the first time saw
a cannon. There was a long row of guns, and as they loomed, black and
indistinct, in the uncertain light of the ship’s lanterns, I thought
how grim and uncomfortable they looked, and whether I should come some
day to know all about them. Farther for’ard groups of novices and older
hands were smoking, singing, talking, and laughing loudly: some of
them observing me, sung out, “Another entry!” and I heard, among their
exclamations, “Here’s another new cock for the county-gaol!”

During the few moments I had observed all this, I had been left by my
conductor, who had gone to acquaint the commanding officer with my
arrival. In my ignorance I expected to see the captain; but he slept on
shore every night. Soon, however, I saw the lieutenant come out of his
cabin, looking, as it seemed to me, very proud and very happy at the
prospect of pocketing another half-crown by the new entry.

“Well,” said he, “can you read?” Most certainly I could. “Well, then,
look at that,” and he handed me a bill, pasted on a board, stating the
advantages of serving one’s country in the royal navy, scale of wages,
provisions, and a list of necessary clothing. I read the bill, and gave
it back, telling him I fully understood it: “Then you’ll enter for ten
years’ continuous service, will you?”

“Yes, sir,” I unhesitatingly answered.

This ended the conference, and left me at liberty for the night. I
was shown the way to the bread-room on the lower deck, where the
purser’s steward and I soon made an acquaintance, by his giving me my
handkerchief full of good sound Clarence-yard biscuit, with which I
was soon deeply engaged, and fancied it much better than the bread I
had eaten at home and at school. My teeth had not finished their first
lesson when the master-at-arms sent for me, and having asked my name,
gave me a bed and blanket, and told me very graciously that I could
‘turn in’ as soon as I liked. Feeling tired and lonely I went below at
once, laid my mattress on the orlop-deck (ollop, as sailors call it),
and taking two of the shot from the rack, spread my coat and trousers
over them for a pillow, and wrapping myself in the blanket, I turned
in, and soon slept soundly. I awoke once during the night, and for a
moment forgot that I had left home, till the melancholy rippling of the
water against the bends, and the striking of the bell, recalled me to a
sense of my new situation and my future prospects.

I was roused the next morning in true naval style, by the unmelodious
pipe, and the gruff voices of the boatswain’s mates: “Rouse out, here!
rouse out! Show a leg and a purser’s stocking! Rouse and bit: lash
away! lash away!” and other admonitory cries, to me seemed uncouth and
strange, and at last I wondered how they could make such a noise. I
rolled up my bed and put it away, and then went to the washhouse on the
main-deck, where about forty zinc wash-bowls were ranged, each with an
unlimited supply of water and plenty of soap. First come first served;
all hands watched for a chance, got a sluice as they could, and wiped
themselves afterwards on their own towels--if they had one. Some had no
towels, and wiped anywhere, not being over-particular; and with them it
was a good joke to single out a new entry, who is pretty sure to have a
clean and dry towel; and while he is busy at his bowl, these fellows,
with easy consciences, wipe themselves upon his towel, and fling it
into some corner, leaving the helpless owner to wipe himself upon his
own shirt if he likes. I waited for a short time, and presently got a
wash and the loan of a towel from a very disinterested shipmate. After
this we were piped to breakfast, and the whistling gave me as much
surprise as my rude awakening had done. My first half-pint of cocoa in
the service was very good, which is more than I can say of my last, for
that was too full of horribles. Soon after breakfast I was sent for by
the doctor. I went down to the dispensary, a small cabin on the lower
deck. “Strip!” was the order. I complied. The man of medicine now began
his examination. He looked first at my mouth and teeth, then felt the
muscles of my arms and legs, telling me to make one step backwards or
forwards; then, “Cough, will you? but don’t do it in my face. Cough
again--again. Were you ever ill? Did you ever break an arm or a leg?”
and “Have you been vaccinated?” All these questions comprised my
catechism, and I was not a little glad when told that I was passed, and
might put on my clothes again and “go.” I didn’t do any actual duty
that day; I was merely initiated into the routine of a ship; taught
to distinguish the stem from the stern, the mizen from the mainmast,
and that again from the fore, and the same with the hatchways, and
finally, the important fact that the right side of a ship was called
‘starboard,’ and the left side, ‘port.’ I was quite elated at my day’s
training, and began to think I was now really a sailor. The next day I
was put into ‘First Instruction,’ which means standing up to make the
knots and hitches most in use, and being shown the proper way to lash
up a hammock. The knots were mostly very simple and easy, but I now and
then got treated as a ‘muff’ by blundering into a difficulty where none
existed.

Three days was I knot-making, then advanced into ‘Second Instruction,’
learning how to pull an oar and handle a boat. The first thing
necessary was to pull together, and very trying it was for those who
could do so to suffer for those who couldn’t or wouldn’t, for till
every oar dipped in the water as one, the coxswain wouldn’t cry “Oars!”
which gave us a moment’s rest. Those who could pull well were soon
picked out and put into a better boat, taught the way to feather and
toss an oar, and the modes of saluting officers upon the water. For
a lieutenant the coxswain only gets up and takes his cap off; for a
captain, the boat’s crew lay on their oars, and the coxswain takes his
cap off; and for an admiral, the oars are tossed, and all caps go off.
All this I went through very creditably; the novelty of the thing made
it a pleasure in my inexperienced eyes. While in this Instruction,
I received my clothes, viz.: one pair of blue cloth trousers, two
blue serge frocks, two pair of white duck trousers, two pair of white
jumpers, two pair of stockings, two white frocks, three flannels, two
caps, one knife, and a marking-type; all of which Government supplied
for the moderate sum of 3_l._ 10s., including bed and blanket; but
although Government pays this much, or did pay at that time, it was
said in the ship that the things did not cost so much, and that the
contract tailor, the master-at-arms, and the ship’s corporal, made a
profit out of the job, and shared it among themselves. My shore-going
togs I made up into a neat bundle, and when the man who generally
bought the cast-offs came on board I offered them for sale, but as he
only bid sixpence for the entire suit, I gave them away.

After this I had to ‘do away’ with my little trunk, as, according to
the regulations of the service, we were not allowed the use of a box
bigger than a tea-caddy; sailors call it ‘ditty box,’ and in it they
keep all their hoarded stock of valuables, and often they indulge in
what is called ‘sailors’ pleasure,’ turning everything out of their
little treasury, overhauling the heap, and carefully putting it back
again.

The white jumpers and trousers were as stiff as pasteboard when first
put on, nevertheless I felt great pleasure at my appearance, and
wouldn’t have exchanged my position for a better one on any account.
In fact, as sailors say, I was as proud as a “dog with two tails.”

As soon as I was made a sailor I was ordered to the mast-head, and
cautioned not to go up through ‘lubber’s hole.’ I executed the order
very well, and upon coming down was complimented upon my evident
willingness and alacrity. I felt no giddiness or hesitation while
performing this task; it seemed almost natural to me, and I was
vain-glorious enough to be proud of having scrambled up the rigging,
and gone over the ‘futtock shrouds.’

On the tenth day I was passed from the boats into Cutlass Drill, or
‘Third Instruction,’ being taught first the various attitudes, the
order of which was, “first position in three motions. One, lock the
arms smartly behind the back; two, place the right foot in the hollow
of the left; three, quarter-face to the right.” Then, “the same
positions in one motion;” then, “the way to pick up and ground your
cutlass; come to the guard; assault, first point, second point, third
point, parry.” Then the different cuts and guards.

About twenty of us learned this drill at once, which was with most
a favourite drill. Our instructor, Jim Clements, was an old marine,
and many a wet of grog had he from numskulls and fools, for his
liberal connivance at faults and petty weaknesses; but, be it known,
these instructors in training-ships are little gods on board, and
one word from them is well-nigh sufficient to crush a poor novice,
let him be right or wrong; and woe to those who have the temerity to
offend a trainer. Clements was very exact with us, and not choice in
his expressions when any one blundered, and was fond of consigning
the defaulter to some less agreeable place than the deck of the
_Illustrious_. Three days in this, then in Rifle Drill, which is part
of the third instruction. We were taught how to use the weapon; the
platoon, and various exercises, and, finally, to fire, which operation
most of us liked; albeit, some made but poor marksmen, others fired
with great accuracy, and a third lot were so timid, that, failing to
pull the trigger vigorously, the piece hung fire, and they looked
sheepish, and if it went off and kicked they looked about as if they’d
lost something, and didn’t seem exactly to know whether they were in
this or the middle of next week. We used to fire at some old stakes
in the mud when the tide was down, over the ‘quarter’ of the ship,
and in the direction of Porchester Castle, at a range of about two
hundred or two hundred and fifty yards. Our various shots--ten in
number--were all put down on a printed form, and the result was read to
us afterwards. I may place myself in the class of poor marksmen. I was
too careless, I fancy, to be a good shot. However, good or bad, I was
passed out at the week’s end. Then came the ‘Fourth Instruction’--big
gun exercise--and under the rough, but able teaching of John Carter,
gunner’s mate, we soon made visible progress; being taught first the
different parts of a gun, the difference between the muzzle and the
breech, its weight, the charges used for different ranges, the uses of
the train, and two side-tackles; and, lastly, how to dismount a gun.
I took great delight in this drill, and when in full operation, such
as “four rounds quick firing, second and third round sponge, load and
shift breechings,” it was much better than handling a musket all day.
Having passed creditably out of this, I joined the ‘Fifth Instruction,’
under the boatswain, an officer of the old school, zealous in duty and
for the service, and utterly disdainful of all new-fangled work. From
him I learned to make all sorts of splices, short-long, long-short--a
combination of both; eye, left-handed, and all useful knots, such as
‘shroud,’ ‘man rope,’ ‘Matthew Walker,’ and ‘Turk’s head.’ Making and
remaking these gave us a thorough insight into their construction, and
Old Pipes took care that nothing should be slurred over, or done in a
hurry. His precept invariably was, “Do it well, my lads, and take your
time; never mind bearing a hand.” Three weeks was I under Pipes’s
tuition, and then I was transferred to the ‘Sixth Instruction,’ a
continuation of the fifth into things more complicated, such as putting
an eye into a hawser, making sword, thrum, and paunch mats, turning in
a dead eye. Our instructor, in this case, was a middle-aged seaman,
very good-tempered, and always willing to explain and tell something
new. We all liked him. In this Instruction also we used to have lessons
with the model-rigged ship in the schoolroom, learning the uses and
names of all the ropes. Then into the ‘Seventh and last Instruction:’
the compass and lead line. These were soon acquired, and we were set
down as ‘passed boys,’ and fit for any emergency, and ready to go away
into a ‘sea-going craft.’

We were six months in mastering all the instructions, and then, to
test our knowledge and ability, a certain number of us were selected
and sent on board the _Sealark_, a brig kept for the purpose of short
cruises in the Channel, during which the novices learn something
more of seamanship, actually at sea. We were ‘told off’ for the brig
the evening before our start, and I remember I was in a state of
considerable excitement, and couldn’t sleep well for the thought of
it. Early the next morning we heard the pipe, “Away there, Sealarks!”
and, putting our bags and hammocks into the launch, we pulled off to
the brig, which lay some distance down the harbour. It was Saturday
forenoon, and the little vessel had been cleaned ‘fore and aft,’ and
looked the very picture of neatness and ‘man-of-war’ sternness. Upon
going on board we were told off to our different stations, messes,
and berths. I was made ‘maintop-gallant-yardman,’ No. 60, and for a
long time my elevation was a source of discomfort. Having to run aloft
without shoes was a heavy trial to me, and my feet often were so sore
and blistered that I have sat down in the ‘top’ and cried with the
pain; yet up I had to go and furl and loose my sails; and up I did
go, blisters and all. Sometimes the pain was so bad I could not move
smartly, and then the unmerited rebuke from a thoughtless officer was
as gall and wormwood to me; but it used to call out my latent energies,
and although my exertions were put forth to the utmost, I had by the
stinging influences of these rebukes to put forth a still greater
amount of desperate but not unwilling energy. Our duties here were of
a more decided and active character than they had been in the Guardho,
the usual daily course being, five A.M., “Turn hands up; holystone or
scrub upper deck; coil down ropes; half-past six, breakfast, half an
hour; call the watch, watch below, clean the lower deck; watch on deck,
clean wood and brasswork; put the upper deck to rights. Eight A.M.,
hands to quarters; clean guns and arms; divisions for inspection;
prayers; make sail, reef topsails, furl topsails, top-gallant-sails,
royals; reef courses, down top-gallant and royal yards.” This continued
till eight bells, twelve o’clock. Dinner, one hour. “All hands again;
cutlass, rifle, and big-gun drill till four o’clock; clear up decks,
coil up ropes;” and then our day’s work was done. On other days it
would be, “Up anchor, make sail,” and away we would go, gliding merrily
through the blue water, out of the harbour, past St. Helen’s, through
the _Needles_, inaptly named, and so into the open sea. And then
such doings when a little sea happened to be ‘on;’ such wry and pale
faces, such furious efforts to keep the food within bounds, such utter
prostration and dogged indifference to the future, when, by-and-by, a
nice fresh breeze springing up, “Reef topsails!” would be the order.
The rigging quickly swarmed with eager youngsters; up they would go
and ‘lay out’ upon the yard, and while busily engaged in hauling out
the earrings and tying the reef-points, their formidable enemy would
again triumph. The belly of the sail to leeward, our own faces and
patches of the deck below showed the signs of a strong upheaval. On
these occasions our instructors would come out with, “Ah! it’s a sin
for you to eat; you’re only wasting good grub.” Our master, a stout
devil-may-care kind of man, rough and ready in his manners, but having
plenty of good sound sense, and a strong touch of kindness, on one
of these occasions, when standing on the ‘fokesle,’ superintending
operations aloft, and irritated at being the object of such a shower,
sung out in his peculiar drawling tones, “Fore-topsail-yard there!
I wish you’d keep your four-pound pieces to yourself.” This was
jocularly comparing the pieces which fell to the pieces of beef, four
pounds each, which are put into the coppers to boil for dinner. This
sea-sickness with some was a lamentable affair; they would lay down
on the deck and there remain, spite of kicks and cuffs liberally
bestowed by the boatswain’s mate, and notwithstanding their being
washed down every now and then as the lively little craft dipped her
figure-head. I, however, was happy and glorious all this time; I never
had the slightest touch of sea-sickness. I used to take delight, when
the blisters healed and the soles of my feet became hardened, in my
duties, which were active and novel. I endeavoured also to keep a blank
page against my name in the defaulter’s book. But I was near getting
its fair surface stained one day by what to me seemed a trifling
incident. I was stationed on the poop, or the apology for one--as is
usual in a brig--to look out for signals. It was nearly twelve (eight
bells). Just then the master appeared on deck, but was deeply engaged
with a yarn, which he was twisting to a friend. As he came aft, he
said, “Look out for your dinner pendant, youngster.” “Ay, ay, sir,” I
answered; “I have it bent on.” And, in truth, I thought I had. Well,
the bell struck noon. “Up with your pendant!” cried the master; and up
I hoisted the little roll of bunting to the mast-head and broke it,
when, by ill luck, instead of the dinner pendant blowing out, it was
the ‘affirmative.’ “Well, you _are_ a pretty fellow,” said the master:
“_you_ a signalman! Here! fetch me that glass.” I obeyed, and as I
handed the telescope to him he made a hit at me, but fortunately missed
his aim; so he consoled himself with saying “I was a fool, and he’d a
mind to punish me.” So ended my signal duties.

Our commander was a clever seaman and gentlemanly man, and he it
was who always used to read prayers, and his mode of reading was
characteristic. After going through all, he would finish thus: “The
grace of our Lord Jesus Christ be with you all, amen. Away aloft,
topmen, loose top-gallant-sails and royals. Carpenter! rig capstan.”
All this without a pause, and as if it had been actually part of the
benediction.

I was in the brig three months, during which we made cruises to Cowes,
Weymouth, Lyme Regis, Plymouth, and short distances in the Channel; and
at the end of that time I was judged to be fit for active service, and
with a clear defaulter’s book, and more experience, returned again
to the more sober duties of the Guardho. This was seven months after
my first entry into the service. Being now of some real use, we were
entrusted with a few hands to keep certain parts of the ship clean; and
our special duty was to wash down the ship’s side and clean the white
streak every Saturday morning. We were exempt from all drills, and were
allowed to improve ourselves in our profession in any way we pleased;
but we were not allowed to be idle, and, indeed, I believe we didn’t
want to be.

At length deliverance drew nigh, and my wish to get into a sea-going
craft was realised beyond my expectations. The captain sent for
me, and gave me my choice, to go either to a large or small ship,
and recommended me to the _Cressy_, ninety-four, fitting out as he
understood for the South American station, of which he spoke in glowing
terms. I chose the small ship, the _Highflyer_, and together with
another youngster was sent on board the following evening; or at least
on board the hulk where the men berthed; the ship herself lying in the
steam-basin. As soon as I was aboard the captain saw me, asked me one
or two simple questions, told me he hoped I would get on, and dismissed
me. I was soon afterwards stationed, and slept that night among my new
shipmates.

On going to work next day with the men in the rigging, I was perfectly
delighted with my new ship. How tremendously long she did seem! what
a pretty build! how fine a figure-head! and, in truth, the dashing,
fast-sailing, and pretty-modelled corvette was a great contrast to the
lumbering, heavy-looking, and old-fashioned seventy-four. I joined my
new ship as a boy, but this didn’t daunt me. I tried to make myself
useful everywhere; and when the men saw I was really willing, they were
always ready to show me how to set about a job in my new profession.
And I was always trying to keep a civil tongue in my head, although it
was very hard trying, and I oftentimes suffered for being ‘cheeky;’ for
many are the small mortifications a fellow must submit to, or else he
is always in hot water. If a boy thinks he is somebody before joining,
he soon finds his mistake, for all consideration is for officers;
even petty officers can make him feel how insignificant he is. As an
instance: I was standing rather moodily on the main-deck in the Guardho
one day, with my arms crossed, my thoughts travelling far away, when
a disagreeable voice sung out, “Hi, you there!” Looking up, I saw it
was the gunner. “Well, d’ye hear! Who d’ye think ye are--Napoleon
Bonyparte, or who?” I said nothing, but took the hint and walked off.

My conduct, if it didn’t gain me any new friends, I’m sure made no
enemies. I was put into the fore-top, and my duties were to run up and
down for the men, to knot spun-yarn, pass the ball in rope-serving,
blacken nettle stuff for seizing, and other odds and ends.

I soon learned the power of a first-lieutenant--however vague my
notions of one might have been before. All the boys were piped to
muster. I was at the time making ‘duff,’ that is, pudding, as were
also one or two others; the rest were scattered, so that by-and-by
down comes the corporal to collect us, and aft we were marched to the
quarter-deck, where No. 1, in a towering passion, after looking nasty
at us for a minute, made us ‘toe a line’ for two hours; in other words,
we had to stand in a row on the quarter-deck. But we didn’t much care,
it was summer-time, and a beautiful evening; our spirits might not have
been so brisk had it been raw, cold, and wet, during the period of our
penance.

As boys, we worked hard at sundry jobs during the day, and when the
night came we waited hard upon the men, standing our chance for an
occasional kick, or stinging box on the ear from the surly ones.
But we were happy among ourselves; like birds of a feather we all
kept together, and always endeavoured to steer clear of the men, and
not make too familiar, for a thrashing or a good blow was the sure
consequences of our attempts at equality.

As the fitting out progressed I had more to do, and one of my first
important jobs was to ‘black down’ the fore-topmast, fore-top-gallant,
and fore-royal backstays. I put myself in a bowline, and taking my pot
and making it fast to the outside backstay, commenced my work, and did
it as I thought pretty expeditiously, taking especial care not to leave
‘holidays,’ that is, unblackened patches. Alas, for a boy’s judgment!
When I had finished, and got out of the bowline upon deck, a conceited
and bullying boatswain’s mate, lurking near, all ready, pounced
upon me, and, without any explanation, gave me, in naval phrase, a
‘lambasting,’ and when he had finished told me it was for not “bearing
a hand.” Didn’t I have amiable feelings towards that man for a long
time afterwards!




CHAPTER II.

 At Spithead--Admiral’s Inspection--Sail to Plymouth--Departure
    from England--My first Look-out--How to see--Phosphorescent
    Waves--Making Sail--Our two Gun-boats--The _Plover’s_ Hawser
    breaks--A Growl--Calms and Breezes--A Day’s Routine--Work and
    Watches--Land ho! The Peak of Teneriffe--Anchor off Santa Cruz--A
    Run on Shore--Mules, Fishwomen, and Shopkeepers--To Sea again--A
    Taste of Black List--Strike me lucky--Guy Fawkes--Equatorial
    Weather--Coming down anyhow--A Bit of Fun--Buckets and Hoses--A
    Drencher for Captain and Chaplain--Cross the Line--Shaving and
    Bathing--Besiegers and besieged--An Officer’s Honour, and a Pig’s
    Feathers--Make him speak, Bulldogs--Shipmates and Messmates--A
    rough Lick and Black-List.


On the 2nd of October, 1856, we steamed out of harbour to Spithead,
where we bent sails, got powder aboard, and prepared for admiral’s
inspection. Sir George Seymour, Port-Admiral, came next day, mustered
and inspected us. No sooner was the business ended, and he over the
side, than it was “up anchor,” “loose sails;” and before half an hour
had elapsed the _Highflyer_ was under all plain sail, and heading away
for Plymouth Sound, where we had to pick up a couple of gun-boats--the
_Opossum_ and _Plover_--for convoy to China. We ‘beat’ all the way in
the teeth of a westerly gale, with plenty of rain and cross lumpy sea,
and entered the Sound on the 4th, during the afternoon, and anchored
inside the breakwater. We could see nothing of importance, as the two
days we lay there were miserably wet and boisterous, and some of the
men, natives of the place, said, “’Twas regular west-country weather,
for Plymouth was the last place God A’mighty ever made.”

Our two little charges had been waiting for us some time, having fitted
out at the port, so they were not sorry when, having filled up with
all needful stores, we made the signal, ‘Prepare to weigh;’ and on a
beautiful October afternoon, and in a complete but not unpleasant calm,
we steamed from behind the quiet shelter of the breakwater, with a
tender on each side of us. Ere long the land appeared as a blue bank in
the distance, and the waves, which curled and frothed under our bows,
were those of the vast Atlantic; and our long voyage to the East had
commenced.

Although I felt a sad emotion at leaving Old England, and crossing the
wide ocean for the first time, yet the pleasurable feeling of love for
novelty predominated. A new ship, new companions, rather different
duties, different chiefs, and, above all, the thought of seeing such
a number of strange things and countries; all these combined, had I
attempted to give way to sadness, would have soon dispelled the cloud,
and showed me the bright side and no other. My first night’s watch was
another novelty, and I felt very proud when it came to my turn to go
on the ‘look-out;’ and I strained my eyes to the utmost, in order to
let nothing escape notice. If any one had accosted me then I should,
perhaps, have felt too important to answer, so great an idea had I of
the responsibility of my post; and, in truth, it is a responsible post,
for often through the sleepiness of the look-out, or his carelessness,
sad sights has the pale moon looked upon. Our superiors were very
strict with us on these occasions; a look-out caught napping, or “doing
his eyes good,” remained there for another hour, or sometimes all the
watch; and in daytime, if on the look-out at the mast-head, and you
fail to see a sail before it is seen from the deck, you get a good
wigging. To inexperienced, and at times to experienced eyes, mistakes
will happen; for often, after gazing till your eyes ache, the distant
speck turns out to be nothing, or you see something, you are not quite
certain. Look hard again, wink, rub your eyes, wink again; and then,
sure enough, on the distant horizon you see a speck (which would be
invisible to untrained eyes) like a snow-cloud, so white is it, but
the shape is unmistakable; so putting your hand to your mouth to drive
the sound downwards, you sing out, “Sail on the port beam, sir!” “Very
good,” responds the officer of the watch; and the result of the winking
and eye-rubbing is all over. This is not like the elaborate naval talk
which we read in novels of sea-life and adventure: it does not display
any sentiment, but is quite practical and every-day like.

Having nothing to do when I came off my post at the end of my hour, I
looked over the netting at the water, for a proof of what I had read
of its luminous appearance. All round the bows, as the waves dashed
against them, appeared like liquid flame, and the ship’s wake was a dim
track of phosphorescent light.

I seemed to enjoy being in so large a steam-ship, and was fond
of looking down the engine-room hatchways at the ponderous but
beautifully-working machinery; and long afterwards, when steaming in
calm nights, and everything on deck was quiet, I used to fancy the
engines said, as they steadily revolved, _Going ahead, sir--going
ahead, sir_. For three days we held on our tranquil course, under
steam, with smooth and clear water, and no indications of a breeze.
At last, in the forenoon of the fourth day, it came; the engines
were stopped, the propeller had to take a holiday, and the boatswain
soon gave us work by piping “Up screw;” the little iron capstan was
speedily rigged, and we merrily danced the screw up for the first time.
“Away aloft; loose sails,” was the next order; and soon the ship was
covered in a cloud of canvas, and casting off the towing hawsers of the
gun-boats we sailed for some time merrily in company. But the breeze
freshening we soon outsailed them; and when one dropped rapidly astern
we took in our royals and hauled down flying-jib, but as the little
craft did not crawl up to us we wore and stood towards her. In all
this shortening and making sail I took an active part, because, being
fore-royal yardman, I had to loose and furl whenever the order was
given; but I liked it, and the motion of the ship was not quite new to
me. But before long the weather changed, becoming suddenly squally and
rainy, and the wind increasing we took in a reef. The gun-boats made
capital weather of it, and we always endeavoured, by keeping under easy
sail, not to lose sight of them.

My first Sunday at sea was not very encouraging; it was wet and stormy;
and after being drenched for four hours on deck I was at liberty to go
below into a stifling atmosphere, and with an empty stomach for another
four hours. “Who wouldn’t be a sailor?”

We were enjoying the fine weather that followed the three foul ones,
when a little incident occurred, which of course all had expected; the
_Plover’s_ good nine-inch cable-laid towing hawser parted. “Shorten
sail” again, of course: the royals were taken off, and the stunsails,
in a cloud of fluttering canvas, were hauled down for the time. The
hauling in of the hawser was not got through without some growling.
One old fellow--Frank by name--a notorious hand at it, saying, “Ah! if
this here’s going to be the game every other day, I know I’ll wish them
gun-boats to blazes!” “Well, you no call to growl, old Frank; we ain’t
hardly started yet.” “Hallo! Mouth Almighty; is that you?” retorts old
Frank. The hawser was soon spliced, and, by means of a line with a buoy
attached, paid out to the gun-boat; and we took her in tow once more.
The next incident that enlivened the monotony of our routine was the
sight of a fine shark, which we coaxed, but in vain, with all sorts of
delicate baits. Then it fell calm, and for forty-eight hours we were
rolling and straining about with an ocean around us like glass, but
whose bosom heaving with the long heavy swell tossed the buoyant craft
about anyhow. Then the breeze blew once more, and we youngsters began
to look eagerly for land; and we quite envied the man at the mast-head
his chance of first seeing famed Teneriffe. But before we do see it,
let’s have a look at our daily routine at sea.

Four A.M., “Watch and idlers to muster” (cooks, stewards, and boys,
are termed idlers). Five A.M., “Watch and idlers coil up ropes; wash
and scrub upper deck.” Three-quarters of an hour, “Coil down ropes.”
Then, if all plain sail were on the ship, “Reset sail; take another
pull of all halyards; _sweat_ the light sails up _taut_.” Seven A.M.,
breakfast. Half an hour, “Call the watch; watch below clean lower
deck;” watch on deck as requisite. “Divisions;” prayers. Twelve noon,
dinner. Two P.M., “Call afternoon watch;” employed on deck. At four,
“Call the first dog-watch.” And so on, with but little variation from
day to day; nothing meeting one’s gaze but the boundless waste of wild
blue water, enlivened now and then by a sail.

At last, on the morning of the 22nd, we sighted land from the
mast-head, and ere long it was visible from deck, looming grandly on
our starboard bow. The peak itself towering majestically above the
clouds, and capped with snow, was a grand and striking sight as we
drew nearer and nearer, till evening. We lay ‘on and off’ the island
all night, and getting the first of the sea-breeze at daybreak of the
23rd, sailed into Santa Cruz roadstead, clewing up and furling all
sails, and giving the governor a salute of twenty-one guns, which was
rather promptly returned by the lazy Spanish soldiers from one of the
dilapidated and worn-out looking forts.

It was a great treat to me, and in fact most of us youngsters, to look
upon land again, and get a glimpse of green trees and quiet-looking
houses. The island has a rocky and sterile appearance from the sea.
I went once on shore, and of course I saw the houses, vineyards,
churches, and Plaza, which latter, during some of the work-days, has a
very lively appearance. Mules do most, if not all, the goods traffic,
and it is amusing to watch the drivers as they shout, and cut all
sorts of capers at their animals, which patiently toil on down to the
landing-place with their different loads. First, they launch forth a
long string of abuse; and secondly, they deliver a most unmerciful
shower of blows on the backs of the poor beasts. These muleteers are
generally fine men. The dress of the fish-women on the landing struck
me as being very picturesque, and it is a pretty sight to see them with
their baskets of fish on the beach, the rays of the early morning sun
falling happily on their red and blue scarfs and snowy white aprons,
and still more showy head-dress. They wear no shoes or stockings. It
seemed to me that the town had a very eastern look about it, on account
of the houses being only two stories, and flat-roofed and whitewashed.
The streets are wide, and pretty clean. The shopkeepers didn’t appear
to be overburdened with business: many were sitting at their doors,
dreamily smoking their pipes in the warm noonday sunshine.

We lay here five days, taking in fuel and provisions, and early on
the morning of the 28th the screw was again set in motion, and out
we steamed, with our two chicks in tow, and away we sped on the open
sea, with smooth water beneath us and a bright sky above, until the
wind helped us once more; and very pleasant did our southward course
appear to me. But one day the first-lieutenant ordered me with a
message to one of the engineers. I couldn’t find the man, and in my
simplicity came back and reported my failure to the officer. “Oh, you
can’t! To the mast-head with you! Up ye go, now!” So up I went, and
sat there for two hours, and when I came down, without any word of
ado or explanation, he gave me “four days’ number two black list,”
which, interpreted, means I had to drink my grog on the quarter-deck,
and stand there for one hour at dinner-time, and again for an hour
and a half in the evening, during my own time. In this way a little
variety was made in one or two of my pleasant days within the tropics.
Of course shipmates and messmates make remarks upon one another’s
punishment. “Well, John,” says Briggs to me, “what did ye get? what
did he do to you?” “Oh, so and so!” “Well, strike me lucky, I’m blest
if that ain’t a shame! I hope the black muzzled rascal’ll croak afore
morning,” are some of the expressions used on such occasions.

On the 5th of November we made up a guy, and having paraded him round
the decks, and sung in memorable verse his atrocious crime, triced him
up to the foreyard-arm, with a lantern tied to his feet, the admiration
of all beholders; after which he was hauled down and well tarred,
and we set him on fire and hove him overboard. He floated a long way
astern, blazing fiercely, till one wave bigger than the rest doused his
light, and we gave three hearty cheers at his double punishment.

On the 12th we neared the line, and began to have a specimen of
equatorial weather: tremendously hot, with squalls and rain, not such
rain as I had been used to; but it “came down anyhow,” and, as Jack
would say, “it hadn’t time to rain.” It seemed to me as if the words
were literally verified, “And the windows of heaven were opened.” The
thunder and lightning in these regions made a great impression on me. I
had formed a kind of vague idea of the thing, but the reality, on the
open sea and at night, quite undeceived me.

Of course we had a bit of fun on the line; old hands know all about it,
but this is to amuse boys. The evening of the day before we crossed we
were made aware of our trespass on Neptune’s estate by the tops being
alive with men, who drew up water in fire-buckets with long lanyards
from alongside, and hove it down on the astonished mob beneath. Hoses
were laid along the decks from the foremost pumps, and these being
well manned below, those on deck, who of course were passed hands,
pointed their spouts at whom they pleased. I went on deck with only a
thin pair of cotton drawers on. I hadn’t been up ten minutes before
the hose had been pointed at me often, and I soon took rather an
active part in being drenched and drenching. The hose spared nobody,
not even the captain, an old sailor. I see the gallant chief as he
appeared that evening; he was coming leisurely up the companion-ladder,
as was his wont, when the hissing column of water, aimed full in his
face, utterly surprised him for the moment; but he soon recovered,
and fisting a bucket of water which stood handy, capsized it over his
tormentor. Our good chaplain, too, was most pitiably drenched, and was
fain to betake himself below again with all possible speed. This was
the prologue. The next day, 14th, we crossed the line, and now, boys,
pay attention, if you want to know what a sea-going frolic is. A lower
stunsail was stretched over the gangway, forming a sort of basin, or
bath, which was filled with water; for sailcloth, being closely woven
and of stout material, holds water well. Delicately balanced upon a
grating over this bath was a stool, upon which the novices had to
sit, in order that, having gone through the first forms, they might
be in an excellent position for the second, that is, the ‘dousing.’
The greenhorn being placed on the stool, was asked, “What’s your name?
Where d’ye live?” No sooner did he open his lips to answer, than the
shaving-brush, primed with filthy lather, was thrust suddenly into
his mouth. It was no good to kick against it, for this was always
resented by a threefold dose. The victim was afterwards shaved with a
piece of smooth iron hoop; the ‘bumptious’ ones had the benefit of the
first-class razor, with great notches in the edge, assisted by a more
nauseous and unctuous lather, and rendered more effectual by a series
of thumps and kicks. Finally, he was canted head over heels into the
aforesaid sail, where the ‘bears’ soon fisted him, and gave him, while
still half stupefied and bewildered, a shameful ducking, whether he
liked it or not, and then let him go.

But while all this was taking place on deck, a different scene was
going on below, where most of the men having resolved not to be shaved,
had unshipped the hatchway ladders fore and aft, and congregated in a
body, so that if the shaving party showed their noses below in order to
force the unwilling ones up, they might get what they didn’t bargain
for. One or two attempts were made to drag up some of the youngsters,
but our side gallantly rescued us, and the advocates for the razor drew
off discomfited.

All this time there was a precious noise below, and, as one of the
west-country men said, “We were all talkers and no harkeners.” At last
the third lieutenant made bold to come from the wardroom and approach
our entrenchment: we let him come pretty close, and heard his request
that we would drop all this nonsense and get shaved; but, no; the men
wouldn’t hear of such a thing, and he was pelted back with sundry dirty
swabs and other missiles into his own quarters. The other officers,
seeing him defeated, desisted from any further parleying for a time,
and we were left to ourselves; except now and then an attempt at
surprise by the upper-deck party; but it wouldn’t do; we were on our
guard, and always pelted them off.

At last, the men getting quiet, the first-luff came forward, and
calling one of the men by name, said he wanted to speak to him: “Oh
no, sir--you want to get me shaved. I’d rather not come, sir.” “But,”
says the officer, “I’ll give you my word of honour I won’t harm you.”
“Yes,” sings out somebody from the crowd, “honour hangs about you like
feathers on a pig.” The officer now began to be irritated: “Oh, I know
what you want, sir,” says the man. “You don’t catch me like that.”

At last the officer lost his temper; perhaps all the quicker because of
the wet cloths and swabs with which he was kept aloof. However, by dint
of threats, he got the man out, and of course the lieutenant marched
him in triumph on deck, where he was shaved with a vengeance. Seeing
their cause lost, the men submitted, and one by one sneaked up and
went through the ordeal. I had been waiting to go through the process
for some time; at last the stool was vacant. I jumped up. “What’s yer
name?” No answer. “What’s yer name?” Still speechless. “Make him speak,
bulldogs,” says Neptune. Whereupon a little girl (Neptune’s daughter),
assisted by her brother, bit my toes unmercifully. “Oh! oh!” I cried,
when dab went the nasty brush into my mouth. Then old Nep said, “Pass
him through, he’s a quiet character,” and capsized me over to the care
of the bears, who dipped me under once; and then scared and gasping for
breath, I scrambled out of the sail. These bears are men who stand in
the sail, ready to receive and duck the novice as he descends from the
stool. I didn’t relish the rough handling and treatment, and the severe
sousing, but I submitted with as good a grace as possible, and took my
turn at laughing at my comrades who succeeded me. After all the new
men had gone through their initiation the decks were cleaned up, the
sail was triced up to dry; and discipline again prevailed. So ended our
homage to Neptune.

I had begun by this time to know my new shipmates and their different
dispositions. Some among them, like myself, were making their first
voyage, and had come to sea to gratify a roving fancy; but the hope
of seeing other people and countries kept them from dwelling too much
upon thoughts of home and repentance for the past. My messmates I had
also learned to know and understand, and although most of them were
rough and rude, and one or two sour-tempered and illiterate, there was
generally a warm heart underneath, and I was never molested on account
of my book-reading and quiet-loving propensities. But go to sea if you
want to know what a rough lick from an officer’s tongue feels like
and produces. One dinner-time I went aft to fetch something, when the
first-lieutenant, who was walking the weather-side, called out, “Here,
hi! where are you going?” I answered; and he went on: “Sir, what are ye
laughing at?” (There was not a smile on my face.) “I’m not laughing,
that I’m aware of, sir.” “Oh! you’re _not_ laughing? Stand there.
Quartermaster, go for the master-at-arms.” While that personage was
coming, the lieutenant declared he would teach me to tell lies. “I
didn’t tell a lie, sir,” said I, indignantly. “Silence! I’ll gag ye if
you say another word.” Bitter tears rose to my eyes, but I kept them
down.

By-and-by Jondy came up, touched his cap to the lieutenant: “Sir?”
“Give this boy five days’ black-list, for insolence, and contempt of
the quarter-deck.” I was dismissed with feelings not easy to describe.
I know I heartily hated that man from my first experience of him;
and he would always--deserved or not--come down upon me. Most of the
men disliked him thoroughly, and nicknamed him “Black Jack,” and the
“Devil’s own Playmate;” and they often used to say, after he had been
punishing unjustly, “I don’t wish him no harm; only hope he’ll fall
down and break his neck. Yes, and if he was to fall overboard, I’d
heave him a grindstone, or shove my hands in my pockets.”




CHAPTER III.

 Cape Frio--Arrive at Rio de Janeiro--Magnificent Harbour--An Hour
    on Shore--Crucifix-bearers--Wooden Collars--The Captain’s good
    Advice--Christmas Day--Plum-duff--Close-reefed Topsails--A Sight
    of Tristan de Acunha--The Gun-boats cast off--Algoa Bay--Foul
    Weather--Money landed in Surf-boats--Port Elizabeth at a
    Distance--Discontent--Natal--A Snuffler--Simon’s Bay, Cape of Good
    Hope--Romantic Scene--Bullock-wagons--A brooming Party--Savage
    Landscape--A good Word for Government--Sailors’ Orchards--A fresh
    Departure--Four Gun-boats--A Truant--Strait of Sunda--Boatswain
    Birds--Anjeer--Java--Sumatra--Singapore--Something to laugh
    at--Waterspout--Arrival at Hong-Kong--The Letter-bag--News from
    Home.


On the 3rd of December we were close to Rio, so we painted the
_Highflyer’s_ outside, and touched her up here and there, in order
to present a neat appearance in harbour. While we were painting and
cleaning it had fallen calm, and we lay rolling about within sight of
Cape Frio and the distant mountains till the evening of the 6th, when a
light wind springing up carried us into the harbour. As we arrived and
anchored after dark I could not judge of the place, except where the
rows of lights reminded me of streets; and I turned in anxious to turn
out, and get a sight of much-talked-of Rio de Janeiro. My feelings,
after a long passage across the Atlantic, with rough duties, were very
joyous, and the scene inspired me with pleasurable emotions.

Daylight showed me the narrow entrance between two lofty hills, one
of which, from its shape, is called the Sugar Loaf, and the ranges of
solid-looking forts, within which the harbour suddenly widening spreads
itself like an extensive lake, sprinkled with many beautiful islands.
On the left appeared the city, with its fortifications and shipping;
on the right the open country, in all its vegetative richness, and
dotted with the gay villas of the luxurious planters. The city stands
on a tongue of land, the hills above it are covered with houses, public
buildings, churches, and many convents, surrounded by shady groves
and rich gardens. Seamen do not see much of foreign countries after
all, for I was ashore only about an hour. The streets are narrow, but
well paved and lighted, and have plenty of good shops. I observed
many little niches, containing an image of the Virgin Mary, which
poor people use as chapels. Beggars creep about, carrying ornamented
crucifixes, to which some of the passers-by make a bow, when of course
the beggar expects a fee.

We coaled here, and the lighters were brought alongside by blacks, some
of whom, lean and haggard, had shackles on their legs, others wore
wooden collars, heavily bound with iron. They looked so wretched, and
yet worked so hard, that we wished we could have done them some good.
Whether they were slaves, or only black convicts, I leave it for others
more learned than myself on the subject to say. For my part, though we
lay at Rio five days, I got no more than this little glimpse of the
Brazilian capital.

We went to sea with fine weather, and for many days had a quiet
monotonous life, varied in my own case by the captain sending for me
and giving me a little good advice, which I made up my mind to try to
keep. He ended by saying, “Be civil to all; be smart; and _always_ do
as you are told, then you will get on.” One effect of this kind word
was to make me a little less troublesome to the first-lieutenant.

Nothing occurred to break the dull routine of sea life till Christmas
Day, which of course I cannot pass over in silence. Our chaplain read
the Church Service, and preached a sermon, in the forenoon, and after
that was over all hands began to think about dinner. In our mess we had
a big ‘plum-duff,’ and a thundering sea-pie made with salt meat, and
a dessert of cakes and bananas. During dinner the captain was carried
round in a chair, and loudly cheered, according to general custom, the
band marching before him, playing, as if in mockery, the _Roast Beef of
Old England_. The afternoon was spent as we pleased; but in the evening
we illuminated the lower deck with candles, which shone famously, while
the captain came round and “spliced the main-brace,” after which the
hands cheered, and danced, and sang, till they were tired. Later in
the night, when nearly all on board were asleep, and all was quiet,
remembrances of home and kind faces sitting round the cheerful hearth
came strongly to my mind, and tears started to my eyes as I wished I
was among them. The whole day’s proceedings reminded me of a country
fair, and I was glad when all was over.

The same night, during the middle watch, it came on to blow hard; but
the captain objected to reef, as many of the hands were not sober,
from the effect of their revels, so the watch took in the small sails,
and lowered the topsails upon the cap; even then, and with the two
gun-boats in tow, our gallant ship foamed through the seething water
eleven and a half knots, and being rather light by the head she kept
her decks anything but dry. The next day saw us under close-reefed
topsails, with heavy sea and heavy drizzle. If the youngsters who read
this want to know what reefing topsails means, here is a notion. The
order, “Hands reef topsails!” is followed by a tremendous rush, each
one of us striving to be in the rigging before his fellow, treading on
one another’s fingers, hustling, and well-nigh capsizing a shipmate
out of the shrouds. Then holding on by the yard, we get out on the
foot-ropes, and gather up the sail as far as the reef-band, and hold
it firmly in our grasp, ready to tie the points, while the captain
of the top is hauling out the weather-earring, which must be always
secured first. All this time it may be raining hard, pelting into your
eyes and ears, running in a merry stream down your back; and the yard
strains and jerks with the furiously flopping sail till you are all but
knocked off. As soon as the weather-earring is hauled out, “Haul out to
leeward” is the cry, and the lee-earring is tied; then the impatient
officer below sings out, “Sheet home;” “hoist away;” and before you
are barely clear of the yard, the ‘sheets’ are close ‘home,’ and the
sail rehoisted. You descend to the deck again, the ship staggers on
under her lessened canvas, the rain still pelts down upon you, and the
loose bottoms of your trousers carry off little rivulets of water.
Such watches as these did not tend to make us amiable; and look out
for squalls if you put a messmate out in dirty weather. We used to
stand pretty much as a donkey does in the middle of a field, silent and
sullen; and when the watch was relieved we were always ready to dive
below, and get a shift of dry clothes.

On the 6th we sighted at a great distance the island of Tristan de
Acunha; it loomed very big in the evening light. Some of our men said
that it rises in a sheer precipice six hundred feet above the sea. I
noticed plenty of seaweed to-day, and also the beautiful blue tint of
the water in some parts, and its exceeding clearness. In calm weather
we could see the fishes fathoms deep below the surface.

On the 16th we cast off our two gun-boats, giving them orders to
proceed to Simon’s Bay, while we headed away for Port Natal, with a
slashing breeze on the ‘quarter.’ The next morning, getting well in,
we could see the coast very plainly, bold and mountainous, generally
sloping away to the sea, and well wooded, but no signs of habitations.
Early on the morning of the 22nd we arrived under steam, and amid
tremendous rain, at Algoa Bay; and here was a pretty place to lie,
such a tremendous surf rolling in and breaking in hollow booming waves
against the beach. The ship, pitching continually, took heavy seas over
the bows and through the hawse-pipes, which flooded our lower deck. All
night we kept anchor watch, and had plenty to do in swabbing the lower
deck and keeping it free from water. Our watch kept on hard at it every
minute of the four hours, and I was not sorry when eight bells struck
and we were relieved. I needed no rocking to send me to sleep, and I
slept too soundly to have ugly dreams.

We lay here three days before we could do anything, on account of the
heavy surf, and after all the money which we had to deliver was landed
in surf-boats, under the charge of an officer. As I did not go ashore I
could only see Port Elizabeth from a distance. It is built on the wild
slope overlooking the bay, without much regard to fitness of style. It
does, however, a great and thriving trade in wool and wine, and has two
churches, but how they get filled on Sundays in such a wild-looking
place is a question I’m not prepared to answer. The coloured people
offer a strange sight to a visitor as they warp him ashore in their
boats, with but a scanty show of clothing, and then up with him,
pick-a-back, and carry him across the broken water to the beach.

On the 25th we left for Natal. During the trip I had very gloomy and
dissatisfied thoughts, getting very sick of the company I was in,
and my mode of life. On the 1st of February we dropped anchor in the
roadstead of Natal. The country looked beautiful; fine gradually rising
hills, densely wooded, even to the water’s edge, and large tracts of
pasturage. As at other places along this exposed coast, merchandise and
passengers are generally landed by surf-boats, which are very buoyant,
and well adapted for their use. Not having a chance to go ashore, I saw
nothing of the settlement, but I heard it was very flourishing.

We sailed from here shortly after for our proper calling place, Simon’s
Bay, the port of the Cape of Good Hope, and had a capital run till
within a day of the Cape, when we encountered a regular snuffler, but
scudded before it under close-reefed main-topsail. The wind howled
fearfully among the cordage and rigging, and soon raised a heavy sea,
which sometimes made a clean breach right over the forecastle and
main-deck. To crown all, a misty, cutting sleet came on, and we were
tossing about, not exactly knowing our whereabouts, for two days. Then,
the gale abating and the fog dispersing, revealed to us the welcome
land. We were yet some miles distant, so we made all possible sail, but
the wind being light and ahead, we were all that day and part of the
next beating in; however, about eight o’clock in the evening of the
8th, we ‘let go’ our anchor in Simon’s Bay.

I was one of the first on deck the next morning, to look at the town.
It is prettily situated on the side of a lofty hill, which towers
grandly aloft, scantily clothed with herbage, and having rather a
wild-looking appearance. The outlines of grim hills in the distance,
the deep azure overhead, and the primitive look of the town, rendered
the scene quite romantic. The one principal street runs along the
foot of the hill, and houses are scattered some distance up its side;
this one street is very irregular, and in wet weather not favourable
to locomotion. A good trade is done with Cape Town, about twenty-five
miles distant; the goods are brought in wagons and carts, drawn by
bullocks or ponies. It is a nice sight to see twenty or thirty oxen,
mostly fine animals, drawing a lumbering wagon at a surprising rate
along a rocky and sandy road not yet acquainted with Macadam.

While lying here I was one of a brooming-party, who went away into
the country to cut stuff to make brooms for the ship’s use. How I did
enjoy it! It was a green spot in my heart for long after, and even now
I recal it with pleasure. Judging from what I saw on this excursion,
the country is of the same hilly nature farther inland. As we journeyed
along, gloomy-looking hills, covered with gorse and heath, rocks of
startling and almost unreal shapes cropping out in all directions, some
piled up almost symmetrically, and only wanting imagination to convert
them into a rude forest temple, others scattered, blackened, and riven,
as if blasted by the hand of some mighty destroyer, were the chief
features.

But what surprised me most was the almost total absence of living
sights and sounds; not a single whistle or chirrup did I hear to
disturb the savage solitude and silence. The only signs of life,
besides a few working parties of natives, were now and then a lonely
Hottentot farm, whose owner was invariably kind and hospitable,
and who appeared to be contented; for, said he, when asked how he
got on, “I makes pretty good money of what I sells, and I like the
Gov’ment.” These farms had generally a well-stocked orchard, which
some of our party treated as if it belonged to themselves, and came
away loaded with grapes, peaches, apples, and quinces, as many as they
could cram into the breasts of their blue frocks. The grapes were
large and luscious; and didn’t we quench our thirst with fruit while
returning along the rough hilly track, with our load of broom-stuff,
in the evening. In some places we saw a good many of the Cape sheep,
with their big tails, which seemed to be a wearisome drag. I was glad
to get so interesting a sight of Africa, as I had always a feeling
of mystery about it, whether on account of its vegetable world, its
mighty forests, or its probable future. I longed for another run on
shore, where fruit is so cheap, and fish in plenty may be had for
the catching. I had hoped, too, for a sight of Cape Town, and to get
letters from home, but the town was twenty-five miles distant, and not
a letter was there for me. Seamen and seaboys, however, have to bear
many a disappointment for the sake of duty.

On the 22nd we sailed for Singapore, with four gun-boats in company,
having to take on with us the _Haughty_ and _Forrester_, which the
_Cruiser_ had left behind, and did not stop to look after. And so
it went on, sometimes sail, sometimes steam, till the night of the
24th of March, when we lost one of our little fleet, and had to burn
blue-lights and fire signal-guns, but all to no purpose, for when
daylight appeared the truant was nowhere to be seen. She had dropped
astern at a surprising rate.

April found us still voyaging onwards. On the 12th we saw and passed
Christmas Island, at the entrance of the Strait of Sunda. It appeared
prodigiously wooded, and rose to a good height from the water. It
is not very large; apparently, I should say, about the size of the
Isle of Wight; it is about two hundred and eighty miles from Anjeer
Bay, and directly in the route through the Strait. Here we caught a
bird of a strange character, web-footed, and with plumage of snowy
whiteness. There were plenty of birds also hovering at a great height
above the ship, called, nautically, ‘boatswain birds,’ perhaps from
their uttering a note somewhat like that functionary’s call. They were
exceedingly pretty, having beautiful white diamond-shaped feathers in
the breast, and long forked tails; they glide about with very graceful
motions, and often follow a ship for miles. We arrived in the evening
of the next day at Anjeer, and in the morning numbers of small boats
put off. Eggs, luscious peaches, pine-apples, guavas, and melons,
so tempting as to make one’s mouth water to look at them, and all
remarkably cheap. A couple of fine fowls can be got for a shilling. On
looking ashore but few houses can be seen on account of the density
of the foliage, groves of plantain, coffee, spice, and other precious
trees, lining the shore to within a yard of the water’s edge. The
island has a fine appearance, rising majestically in the interior to
the height of mountains among which lie beautiful valleys and fruitful
plains, glowing in all the glories of a luxuriant tropical vegetation.

As we were on the point of heaving the anchor up for departing, our
lost gun-boat rejoined us. When she parted from us she was driven by
the gale into St. Paul’s, where the captain took in a great stock
of salt fish, in case he might not fall in with his consort again,
and then made all possible speed to Java Head, and just in time: had
we been an hour sooner in our arrangements, or he an hour later, we
might not have met again this side Hong-Kong, if ever he got there. Of
course she was immediately taken in tow; for, said our captain to her
commander, “I’m determined you shan’t be lost again;” and, with one or
two exceptions, we towed her continuously from Anjeer to Hong-Kong,
about 1250 miles. As we progressed under steam through the Strait, we
left behind us Sumatra and Java, and many other and smaller islands,
with low-lying shores and a wonderful growth of tangled vegetation,
that seemed as if it rejoiced under the tremendous heat that made us
all feel so lazy and envious of the cool depths where the shadows of
the dense foliage slept far down beneath the unrippled surface of the
water. It is in such times as these that the seaman’s patience is
sorely tried, and his baser or nobler traits called forth. The sun
strikes down with intense heat, no friendly cloud tempering his rays;
the deck is unbearably hot to the naked feet; the pitch in the sides
and seams of the deck melts and oozes out; the tar drops from the
rigging; the very anchors at the bows become too hot to be touched, and
over oneself comes such an intense feeling of drowsiness and lassitude,
that it positively requires an effort even to speak, and one feels
happiest when able to lie down. Fortunately, being under steam, we had
but little going aloft. Coleridge hit the very thing in his _Ancient
Mariner_.

About the middle of April we heard of the disturbances in China for the
first time, and also what kind of work we might expect there; but I
felt very jolly, and was rather glad I was going to smell powder than
otherwise.

We anchored, upon our arrival in Singapore, about two miles from
the shore, so that all I could make out was a confused mass of
houses, surrounded by trees, and what appeared to be well-cultivated
plantations and patches of woodland. A large number of the inhabitants
are Chinese, who, with their usual avidity, are trading and working
incessantly. Most of the boating work is done by Chinese coolies, who
are “notorious thieves,” but who work hard. The flags of almost every
nation may be seen waving in the breeze from the different shipping
which lie in the port. The next day, Sunday the 26th, gave us no rest.
We worked as hard then as any other day; it was the first time that I
had not observed a Sunday properly, or been exempt from ordinary duty;
and in the evening we steamed away from Singapore with our four charges.

About four days after we had been out a laughable incident occurred,
which some may not think very likely, but nevertheless it was so. About
two bells in the last ‘dog-watch,’ the man at the mast-head sung out,
“Boat on the starboard bow!” This, of course, put us all on the alert,
and we might have been seen in eager expectancy and various attitudes
leaning over the netting, or sitting on the bulwarks, but sure enough
there was the boat, and the men plainly discernible, about two miles
from us. Of course our imagination was worked up as to the boat--how
did it come there?--and at last, as the people in the boat seemed very
apathetic, some hazarded a conjecture as to its being a boat at all;
the majority were certain it was; and the first-luff gave orders for
the side-ropes to be rove, and everything in readiness to receive the
strangers. Of course we put out of our course and steamed towards it;
and when we were about within hail, what should it prove to be but a
log of timber, with seven large birds on it, which flew away as we
passed them. This occasioned a general laugh, of course, so certain had
every one been as to its being a boat. The intense heat may have lent a
hand to help the deception.

Our next visitor was a large waterspout, but it didn’t pass within a
dangerous distance of us; my idea of it was certainly more grand and
startling than the reality. And so at last we reached the end of our
long voyage, and about ten o’clock on the morning of the 13th of May
we steamed into the harbour of Hong-Kong with our four ducklings,
and, steering close to the admiral, anchored under his stern, after
a voyage from England of seven months sixteen days. We had sailed in
all 19,175 miles, and, considering we had towed the gun-boats 14,000
miles, and brought them safe to port, we had reason to be satisfied
with our passage. Our bag of letters came on board, and I had a rare
bundle: it was just dinner-time, but I didn’t care now for the fat
pork and biscuit. I took my letters, and went and sat down between two
guns, when I found I had a letter and paper for every mail since my
departure. I was soon deep in their contents, and forgot in them my
disappointment at the Cape.




CHAPTER IV.

 The Pratta Shoal--The Wreck--The Pirates--Another Wreck--Prospect of
    Hong-Kong--Wantchee Dinner--Up the River--Bocca Tigris--Getting
    it properly--A Chinese Landscape--Plenty of Swamp-seed--Our
    Anchorage--Boats to Fatsan--A Dose for the Long-tails--A dark
    Watch--Capture of Chuenpee--Trophies: unboiled Goat and boiled
    Rice--Chasing a Pirate--Bird-scarers--Alarm of Fire--Inspection
    by Admiral Sir Michael Seymour--The Growlers pacified--Crickets
    and Bullfrogs--Theatrical Amusement--Discontent--Drop down the
    River--A Funeral--Hong-Kong, and a Run on Shore--A Prospect--The
    old Anchorage again--Flogging and Tail-lopping--Rowing
    Guard-boat--Cooking and Story-telling--A Sanpan of Thieves--Prizes
    without Profit--A Grumble--See-no-more’s Fund.


Glad enough we all were to get to the end of our voyage. I had not had
any dinner when the hands were ‘turned up,’ but I had devoured all my
letters. We were not long idle, for the next day we received orders to
weigh and proceed to the Pratta Shoal to relieve an English merchant
ship which had struck there, and remained wedged upon the reef. We
found her in this position, abandoned, and with all her sails flying
loose. She was totally lost, as she had broken her back, and the first
gale of wind would wash her off the reef, and she would go down in deep
water. We took from her all kinds of gear likely to be useful, and then
left her to the mercy of the Chinese pirates, whose junks were hovering
about. The principal token of the luckless _Annie_ which we brought
away was her figure-head, and it was preserved in the ship for years
afterwards, and its end was, I believe, fuel for the furnaces. Our next
expedition was to Macao, where we had to get old stores out of the
wreck of the _Raleigh_.

During the time that we lay at Hong-Kong I had a chance to observe
the town, and will try and say a few words about it. It stands at the
foot of a lofty and somewhat rugged hill, called Victoria Peak. This
hill abounds with springs of the purest water, which trickle down
the hill in the hot sunshine with a cooling and pleasant sound; the
soil is otherwise unproductive. The general appearance of the town
reminded me greatly of Cowes, barring the pretty scenery; the streets
are tolerably broad and indifferently paved; the shops are mostly held
by Chinese; it swarms with beer-shops, which are kept by broken-down
mates of merchant vessels, or by runaway convicts. On landing, if you
feel disposed for a feed of puppy-pie or grimalkin-pudding, you have
only to accompany one of the many cringing Chinamen who run after you,
crying, “Wantchee dinner, Jack? Come my hu’s; me got plenty very good;
all samee Inglis fash.” There are many substantial and good houses
belonging to Government and wealthy colonists. Fans form a great part
of the show in the shops, made entirely of feathers, others of silk and
lighter stuffs, many of ivory, and you can have the sticks carved by
hand to whatever pattern you may order, such as a shield with a coat
of arms, or a cypher, or wreath, all finished according to the copy
with very great exactness. Models of temples, pagodas, gods, are often
worked in ivory, and from the shavings, interwoven with small pieces of
quill, the natives make neat little circular and oblong baskets, very
light and elegant.

At length, everything being ready, we started for the river. The shore
is wild and rocky at its entrance, and at the Bocca Tigris, where
the stream narrows suddenly, the tide sets through like a mill-race,
and boats often have great difficulty in making headway against it.
We passed the Bogue Forts, which had recently been captured by our
people; they were a mere heap of ruins, our shot having told severely
upon them. “Them’s the Bogue Forts,” said the old hands, as we passed.
“Johnny got it properly there!” Farther up the shore becomes very flat,
spreading away to a range of blue hills in the distance, crowded with
well-cultivated fields, skirted by rows of willows or bananas running
in all directions, full and leafy, but low of stature. Here and there
appears a picturesque village. The river, as I guess, is about a mile
broad, and deep and rapid. Long rows of piles stand up in numerous
places nearly all across, and native boats and junks dot the surface.
About six o’clock we arrived in a quiet bend of the stream, within
sight of Dane’s Island; the same luxuriant rice-fields spreading still
on each side, which occasioned the exclamation more than once from our
men, “Well, there’s one good job, we needn’t starve, for there’s plenty
of swamp-seed!” And, besides rice, there were groves of orange, bamboo,
and ash trees.

Here we dropped anchor, and sent away the launch and pinnace to Fatsan
to take part in the action in the morning. The remainder of us who
were left on board went to quarters, and loaded the guns with round
shot and grape in case of surprise. While doing this we didn’t talk
much, only one or two of us youngsters would ask older hands, “D’ye
think we shall have a go in?” and were told to “shut up” for our pains;
and every gun as we finished with it we thought “another dose for the
Long-tails.” The watch was called and kept under arms; the night was
intensely dark, and the rain poured down in torrents, and from the
adjacent villages we could hear the occasional sullen boom of the gong
proclaiming the passage of the night, or the activity of the people,
and the savage baying of Celestial watch-dogs. I was on the look-out
part of my watch, and I peered into the profound gloom over the bows
with keen anxiety, as every ten minutes or so I would hear the often
repeated caution, “Keep a good look out there.” “Ay, ay, sir,” would be
the ready response, and my eyes were again straining to pierce through
the darkness. Oh! how dreary, and long, and weary seemed that middle
watch, and what a welcome sound had the bell when it struck eight, and
the other watch was called.

On the 18th of June we steamed down the river to attack Chuenpee Fort,
just beyond the Bogue, in an angle of the stream; the guns were cast
loose, shotted, boarding nettings triced up, and with everything
cleared away for action we stood at our guns. We approached the fort,
which looked silent and grim, but showed no signs of activity. We came
nearer and nearer, and still no hostile movement from the garrison.
We got to within thirty yards; but no, either they were endeavouring
to draw us on, or they didn’t mean to fight. The _Hong-Kong_, hired
steamer, bearing the flag for the time, now sent a 68-pounder over
all, but no messenger in reply came from the battery. The marines were
quickly landed at the rear of the fort, and, as we half anticipated,
found it deserted, with the exception of an old goat and a big copper
of boiling rice. All the guns had been buried at the back of the fort,
but so hurriedly that the muzzles of several were above ground. We left
them undisturbed. Of course this would-be action was a good joke among
the men, and many said, “Well, if all Chinee fighting is to be like
this, I don’t care a bit; we may as well be doing this as swinging at
our moorings; it’s all in the commission.” We often used afterwards to
revert jocularly to the glorious 18th of June.

As an offset to this, on the same evening, after we had returned
to our anchorage, and as we were mustering for evening quarters, a
large piratical row-boat was seen pulling away in shore; “’way there,
cutters,” was the decisive pipe, and, quickly manned and armed, we
started in pursuit. I pulled stroke oar, and did give way with a will.
It was a hot and hard chase, and had we not had injunctions to withhold
our fire we might have captured them; as it was, they, with their
knowledge of every small creek and bayou of the river, and with their
flat-bottomed boat, escaped us, and the twilight was fast merging into
night when we gave up the chase.

About a week after this we unmoored, and steamed fifteen miles
farther up the river to a new billet. As we advanced the river
gradually narrowed, the banks rose higher, and the most delightful
scenery presented itself; beautiful groves, growing completely down
to the water’s edge, neat little villages, embosomed in trees; while
well-cultivated fields spread away into the distance, skirted by rows
of bananas and plantains. In some of the fields, where the crops had
been newly sown, little boys were seen, as they are in England, scaring
the paddy-birds and crows from the grain, and their “halloo-shoo!”
sounded very familiar. Stow the youngster out of sight and you would
imagine easily you heard a little English rustic. It was different
where we anchored. Picture to yourself an extensive river, wide and
muddy; you are looking east, up stream, and discern lofty rugged
mountains and a bend in the stream, where lie two of Her Majesty’s
ships, _Fury_ and _Acorn_. Lower down, and below the barrier, is our
ship, her broadsides commanding both banks, which are flat and swampy,
and flooded by every tide; on the higher ground flourish crops of
watermelons, yams, potatoes; the scenery farther inland is park-like
and very rural. We had hardly settled into our place when all hands
were startled by an alarm of fire, and every man went to his station,
having been drilled for fire as well as firing. But it was nothing of
importance, and was soon put out. This was the second since we were
in commission; the first happened just as we were leaving Portsmouth.
The admiral, Sir Michael Seymour, came up after we had settled into
our new berth and inspected us. He expressed himself well satisfied
with the ship and crew; but the day before, to have heard many of
the sapient Highflyers making remarks, it would have made him seem
an “awful fellow.” “Well, Bill, I say, the admiral’s coming aboard
to-morrow, at four in the morning, to inspect us.” “Well, God bless
him, Jack, he’s a nice old fellow, and I wish him luck.” “If _I_ have
to turn out at four I shall give him a prayer,” growled S. “The old
----,” broke in a petty-officer, using a very uncomplimentary word. “He
might have waited till after breakfast. We shall have to pull and haul
our souls out for him, I suppose.” Petty-officers are apt to be wise
in their own conceit, and deliver their opinions accordingly. The one
in question walked aft with a very dignified air, as if he considered
all admirals a bore, but especially this one. “One fool makes many,”
sung out a forward youngster, for which he received a sound box on
the ear from a seaman, but whether justly or not I don’t pretend to
say. Such was the talk occasioned by anticipations of Sir Michael’s
visit. After mustering round the capstan for inspection, we went to
general quarters, the well-known signal for which was the rapid roll
of the drum, embodying the tune _Hearts of Oak_; the guns were soon
cast adrift, and actively knocked about, ‘extreme trained,’ and all
but dismounted. The casting loose, loading, and running out, providing
of ammunition, were accomplished in three minutes and a half from the
roll of the drum, much to the admiral’s satisfaction. After this came
cutlass exercise, points and parries, thrusts and guards; and last,
but not least, a spell of rifle drill, in which we fired kneeling,
forming ‘rallying square,’ extending from the centre, and the like
evolutions. The whole of these operations may have lasted about two
hours, and those who growled were considerably mollified when after
breakfast we had all the rest of the day to ourselves.

About this time there appears in my log, “I hate this weary lying
inactive in harbour; sooner by far would I be at sea, then I could at
least learn somewhat of my profession.” Sometimes in the evenings we
were allowed the use of the launch to sail about the river and bathe,
and very often we used to go far up some picturesque creek with the
seine and fish till dark, but often, instead of fish, all we got for
our trouble was mud and vexation. The nights were often oppressively
sultry--it was out of the question to sleep--not a breath of air would
be stirring; nothing would be heard but the monotonous chirrup of the
crickets, the croak of the bullfrog from the swampy fields skirting the
river, and the ripple of the muddy and turbulent stream as it rushed
past to mingle its waters with the distant sea. However, even these
sounds have a soothing effect on a quiet mind.

On the 13th of July we had an entertainment; our theatre royal was
opened by amateur actors, who played two farces, _Fortune’s Frolic_ and
the _Camp at Chobham_. We thought the acting good and very amusing,
and enjoyed it vastly, testifying our approbation by shrill whistling
and noisy cries of “Hencore! hencore!” But the effect of this was soon
over, and most of us felt very discontented at being kept idle so long,
and we thought there would be a danger of our grounding on our own beef
bones.

After a time there came a change. We lifted the anchor, dropped down
the river, and met with a storm, in which our launch went down with
one poor fellow, who was drowned. We recovered his body, and, seeking
out a quiet spot, buried him on Tiger Island, where a simple white
cross, in a lonely and savage nook, marks his resting-place. I was one
of the funeral party, and as we stood, with heads uncovered, listening
to our good chaplain reciting the burial service, the tears came to my
eyes, as I thought such a fate might be mine, and, far from home and
those I loved, I might find a stranger’s grave. Then we steamed down to
Hong-Kong, where all hands had leave for a run on shore for forty-eight
hours. What a treat! How I enjoyed it! On the first day, feeling tired,
I didn’t exactly know where to go, so I mounted the hill, and espying
a little bamboo hut, I made towards it, and offered a good-natured
Chinaman a shilling to let me lie down. He agreed with, “Yes, can do,
Jack; all ploper;” and on some clean rice-straw I made a luxuriant
couch, and lay enjoying the prospect over the town and bay of Victoria,
and the neighbouring island of Kow-loon. When thoroughly rested, I
strolled down to Happy Valley, which contains the race-course and
Christian burial-ground. It is a secluded spot, and very picturesque:
low swelling hills encircle it on three sides; on the fourth it is open
to the blue and sparkling waters of the bay. The hills are covered with
shrubs, firs, and young English forest trees, and look very pretty.
The cemetery is situated at the base of one of these hills, shut in
by plantations, laid out in good walks, adorned by native plants and
well-kept grass, and further by two picturesque chapels; and is so
quiet, so profoundly still, one could well feel happy at the thought of
being laid in so sweet a spot for one’s last long rest.

After the leave was over we returned to our old anchorage, where we
presently had a little excitement in the shape of flogging three
Chinamen, who had been entering native villages and extorting a tax in
the English name. After the flogging, which was administered on board
a junk that lay handy, by a boatswain’s mate, their tails were cut off,
and they were turned adrift, as a warning to all other cheating rascals.

All this time there had been various rumours of taking Canton, and
early in December (1857) a trooper came up with five hundred marines on
board. This looked like doing something; but even now we knew nothing
positive, save that we got ready our knapsacks, water-bottles, and
havresacs in case we were wanted. The river had been in a state of
blockade for months, and every night we had to row guard-boat, which,
as it gave us something to do, never wanted for volunteers. We used
to leave the ship about eight o’clock and pull away at once to our
washing-junk, where all the officers’ clothes were washed, and make the
boat fast alongside. Then, having lit the fire, we put the pot on, with
meat and potatoes, or yams, and sat down to smoke our pipes and twist
yams; that is, to tell stories till supper was ready. No one thought of
refusing any of that, and it soon disappeared. One hand used to wash
up, clean out the pot, and put it on again full of water, all ready for
tea when we came back from going the rounds. The distance was, from the
junk round the farthest ship, about a mile, and back to the junk again
about twelve o’clock. Then we would have our tea, and sit and talk
again till three o’clock; then rounds once more. By the time we could
get back it was daylight, so the fire was put out, everything placed in
order, and we returned to the ship. As a rule, we were exempt from duty
all the remainder of the day; but I have had at times to work hard all
day after rowing guard-boat all night.

While we were going the rounds one night, some Chinese boarded the
junk and walked off with the ‘slack’ of a fathom or two of cable. We
found it out on our return, and determined to lay wait for them. So,
instead of all of us going away, three--myself being one--remained on
board, all lying flat down on our breasts in the afterpart, with our
pistols in hand ready cocked, and intently listening. No sooner had
the splash of the guard-boat’s oars died away in the distance, than a
sanpan shot out from the sedgy bank of the creek and pulled towards the
junk. We let it come close aboard, and one of the rowers was in the act
of clambering over the stern, when I fired. He fell back with a yell,
and my two comrades, dashing forwards, discharged their pistols at the
prowlers. We heard sundry groans, but the sanpan darted away, and was
soon lost to sight.

The guard-boat pulled quickly back, heard our story, and shoved off
again in the direction the sanpan had taken, but could see or find
nothing. One of the men, however, said he could see a fellow creeping
along the banks, under cover of the reeds, and directly fired his
musket at the object, but still it was there, and upon our nearer
approach we found it to be an old tree-stump. Didn’t we laugh at our
shipmate--disturbing the silence of the creek with our hearty roars.
Then back we went to the junk, and talked over the affair till morning.

Soon after the _Bittern_ brig, with mortars on board, and another
trooper with marines, came up, making us look for an end to our
idleness. Meanwhile we had something to grumble about. Our captain
being senior officer in the river, the heavily-laden junks of all
classes, which we were continually capturing during the blockade, were
moored in-shore near the _Highflyer_, and hands were appointed to keep
a look-out upon them. Some were laden with tea and silk, Chinese native
manufactures, clothing, grain, salt; in fact, the very articles that
were saleable in the country. Well, here they were, left rotting and
no good to anybody, when they ought to have been sent to Hong-Kong,
valued and sold, and the proceeds given to us for prize-money. Some
ships did this, and why could not we? By-and-by the owners ventured
aboard the _Highflyer_, and craved for their property, knowing our
captain’s character for kindness, and representing that they were
poor, innocent, honest Chinamen, who obtained their living by trading
and the hire of their vessels; upon which, in many cases, they were
released, and away went the supplicants, laughing in their sleeve at
the clemency of the English mandarin. This we thought was not right;
the men grumbled amazingly: “Ah! this comes of being along with a rich
skipper as don’t care about making money, and thinks nobody else do.
Give me a poor man as only got his pay to look after, a fellow might
crack a fine crust then.” Some of the receipts, we were told, were sent
to Hong-Kong, and put into a fund for the benefit of ships in Chinese
waters. Jack used to call it “See-no-more’s fund,” on account of Sir
Michael Seymour’s taking charge of it. The money, so far as it went,
as we believed, would be given to ships upon their leaving the station
and going home; but we never knew what became of the fund, and so paid
ourselves by christening it as above-mentioned, and many a joke did
Jack crack upon it besides: “The authorities,” he said, “were having
sieves made to sift the fund, and after the sixth-sized sieve had done
its work, all that remained was to be given to sailors.” And when our
mail chanced to be a little over-due, another said, “She had grounded
on the bar with the weight of the fund, and our boats were to go away
and lighten her.” For a long time it was our standing joke, till,
gradually forgotten, we heard of it no more.




CHAPTER V.

 Ho! for Canton--The Bombardment commences--Howling--Our Landing--The
    rough March--Our first Brush with Johnny--The Bivouac--Our
    strange Position--On Picket--Shells and Rockets--Hot Tea and
    no Sleep!--What I thought about--Come on, my Lads--A nasty
    Hero--The Rendezvous--Our Advance--Scaling the Walls--Jamming
    a Frenchman--Five Pounds for a Flag!--Inside the Walls--Wanton
    firing--A Charge--Wounded Natives--Scorching Explosions--Canton
    ours--Marooning and Feasting--Cries of Distress--Chinese Girl--A
    Rescue--The Provost-marshal--Stop! or I’ll fire--An Escape--Horrid
    Prisons--Yeh’s Slaughter-ground--Competitive Headsmen--Mandarin
    Funeral--A white Affair and rather jolly--Body-guard and
    Musicians--A Good Son--On Board a Junk--Return to our Ship.


A flag of truce went up to Canton a day or two ago, and its bearers
reported that the Celestials appear to have made no preparations
whatever. On December 12th the French squadron also steamed up; as they
passed, we gave them three long and hearty cheers, which they readily
returned.

On the 28th, early in the morning, we embarked in a gun-boat, glad
at having something to do, and steamed away towards Canton, the
bombardment of which had commenced at daylight, the ships throwing in a
shot and shell alternately about every three minutes, causing ruin and
consternation in the city. At the commencement of the firing the people
of the small towns and villages adjacent set up a mournful howling,
accompanied by gongs, which coming across the lonely paddy-fields
in the gray of the morning sounded strange and unearthly. We landed
from our gun-boat about two P.M. a little below and to the north-east
of the city; and were quickly drawn up in sections, headed by our
respective officers, at the same time our day’s ‘scran,’ consisting
of raw pork and biscuit, was served out. Our party belonged to the
third division, and was commanded by Sir Robert M’Clure. I belonged
to the second section, third division, which numbered, I think, about
two hundred men, the section with which I marched being the centre.
Upon first marching off, each division took a different route, about
half a mile distant from each other. The route we had to take led
us three miles or so through a continuous burial-place, so that the
ground being lumpy and uneven it was rather toilsome work. By-and-by
we got into even cultivated country, with low trees and ponds about;
and were approaching the east gate of the city, having the river about
a mile distant on our left, when a few stray shots whizzed past,
giving us an inkling of the enemy’s whereabouts. We were now a mile
or so from the city, where the bombardment was still going on, our
shot and shell tumbling in pell-mell; and we passed numbers of dead
Chinamen who had fallen earlier in the day. About four o’clock we came
in front of a small gateway, through which many of the “Pilongs” (bad
men or ragamuffins) were crowding in retreat, armed with ginjalls;
and upon our approach a rather irregular, but annoying fire, was sent
into us. Opposite the gate we halted, and threw out skirmishers, who
advanced filing: a shell or two from the shipping falling amongst the
mob in the gateway occasioned some slaughter, but more scampering. We
then continued our advance, and the Long-tails retreated, yelling in
derision and waving their flags, but acting solely on the defensive; so
lowering our muskets at the order “charge,” we soon cleared the gate.
During the slight skirmish--which may have lasted half an hour--one
or two of our men were wounded; the stretcher-men immediately took
them up, and bore them to the hospital on the beach. As the valiant
Chinamen had been driven back, our skirmishers were called in, pickets
were posted, and the Naval Brigade bivouacked for the night. We soon
had fires blazing cheerily, and began cooking our pork, making tea, and
so on. We had to make the best of a short rest, for our section was the
next for picket-duty, and we had barely time to get supper before our
turn came.

The picket was stationed in a small clump of trees, to guard against
any sudden attack of the Braves--in fact, we were in a natural ambush.
It was now about nine o’clock, and quite dark; and the rocket party,
which was stationed on our right, began throwing their twelve and
twenty-four pound rockets into the city. Meanwhile, the rockets and
shells from the shipping flew hissing over us, and these, together with
the whistling of the returning shot from the walls, that ploughed up
the ground a few yards beyond our bivouac, formed a grand and startling
scene, in which our situation was rather queer. Fires were blazing
fiercely in different parts of the city, lighting up the loopholes
and yawning embrasures of the grim old wall, and giving us an idea of
the place we were destined to capture on the morrow. Our picket was
relieved soon after nine, and we could then go and lie by our fires
till two o’clock, when it would be again our turn. The night was fine,
but very chilly; and I was glad to be relieved, as I had had but little
time before to get ‘chow-chow’ (something to eat), so I boiled some
water, and made a pannikin of tea, and drank it to moisten my biscuit;
and then, feeling weary, I lay down, wrapped my blanket around me, and
tried to sleep. But I tried in vain; sleep kept aloof; so I lay and
thought, watching the hissing rockets as they flew past on their errand
of destruction, wondering where they would fall and whom they would
injure; what would be likely to befal us on the morrow; and then--what
are they doing at home? So I lay till twelve o’clock, when, unable to
sleep, I rose, stirred up and replenished one of the slumbering fires,
and made another refreshing pannikin of tea. One or two of my messmates
were like myself, and could not sleep; but the majority, wrapped snugly
in their blankets, slept as sound as tops. I walked about till two
o’clock, when we again went on duty: one half of a section formed a
picket, numbering sixteen or seventeen men, according to the strength
of the section.

At four o’clock the bivouac was broken up, and we marched silently
towards the city. It being yet rather dark, our march was rather
difficult, and we frequently stumbled; and a certain gallant
lieutenant, in his zeal to lead the way, hastened forwards, crying,
“Come on, my lads!” and fell head over heels into a reservoir of
filth and excrement. On being hauled out by myself and another man,
he swore most lustily, and stank so foully that his single advance
would have dispersed any enemy less hardened against noisome odours
than the Chinese; while we, of course, laughed at him as much as
discipline permitted. I don’t know what became of him afterwards; but
he disappeared. We also had dangers in other shapes, such as old wells
and deep hollows, which it behoved us to keep a good look-out for, if
we did not want to be trapped. After about an hour we came to a large
pile of buildings, which we determined upon attacking, as a portion
of the Imperial troops were said to be lodged there; but finding the
birds flown, we resumed our march to the rendezvous of the naval
forces. This was at a large temple, about which the shot and arrows of
the enemy were falling thickly, wounding many of our men. We waited
here till nearly nine o’clock, the hour named for the united attack
by the allies. Shortly before the time we were ordered to advance,
the gallant old admiral encouraging us by his example. The different
divisions seized their scaling-ladders, and made a rush for the walls:
close underneath was a ditch, which we had to cross, and it caused us
some inconvenience to get the ladder over. I was in the middle of the
party, with my head between the rounds of a ladder, which rested on my
shoulders, and managed to get as far as the middle of the trench, and
there I stuck, till assisted by some who had scrambled across. Soon
the ladders were raised against the different embrasures; ours was at
once crowded with marines; so seeing no chance of getting up by that,
I ran to the next, and swarmed up with the other fellows, whose weight
made the ladder creak and grumble, and threaten us with a fall. I had
mounted but two or three rounds, when a poor little bugler, belonging
to the marines, who expected to see the lot of us come down by the
run, caught hold of my leg, and held on like a leech. I shook him off,
however, got to the top of the ladder, jumped through the embrasure
upon the wall, and ran stem on to a Frenchman, and got a heavy fall
by the shock. I scrambled up somehow, and, looking round, saw the old
admiral on one of the scaling-ladders, shouting as he stepped up, “Has
any man of you a flag? Five pounds for a flag! Has nobody a flag?”
and doing his best to cheer us on by word and example. All our force
was now making for the north of the city along the wall, in disorder,
without any apparent regard for divisions; and keeping up an irregular
fire upon any poor helpless Chinaman they happened to spy out; many
firing for mere wantonness and devilment, thus wasting ‘Andrew’s’[1]
valuable ammunition. The Braves offered but a feeble resistance; they
didn’t dare to show out in fair fight; but skulked behind houses and
walls, firing when they thought they were likely to escape detection.
At one place near the north gate they made a stand, but we soon put
them to the right-about by a charge from our division; they didn’t
appear to relish cold steel at all. The ground by this time was
thickly sprinkled with dead and dying Chinamen; and it was hideous and
sickening to see many of them, so fearfully were they disfigured. They
invariably carry their powder loose in the same belt with a burning
match, by which they fire their ginjalls; and as they lay partially
doubled up, wounded or dying, the matches continuing to burn, set
fire to the powder, and the poor wretches were cruelly scorched by the
explosion, in addition to their other torments.

[1] The seamen’s synonym for government, or the authorities at home.

The fire, which had been pretty brisk at first, was now fast
slackening; in fact, the allies were in possession of the city, and
soon our flags blew out in the breeze, over the twice-captured city of
Canton.

But though the place was taken, we had now and then to send a shot at
the Braves, who annoyed us by their scattered and covert fire; and to
prevent useless risk, we were not allowed to go in among the houses,
but were divided along the wall, by which the means of escape from
within were cut off.

That night we were quartered in one of the streets near the wall,
and took possession of the half-ruinous houses, cooking our food in
native coppers, and otherwise asserting our prerogative as conquerors.
But martial law reigned paramount; we were only sailors in barracks,
instead of afloat. However, we did stray about for all that, then and
afterwards, braving the consequences, and often with impunity. We used
to go out ‘marooning,’ and many a batch of fowls and pigs was brought
in, on which we feasted, as an old salt said, like little kings. But
too often this prowling for poultry was but the pretext for robbery
and brutal violence. The Chinese well knew the barbarians’ propensity,
and sacrificed their own daughters and wives rather than let them fall
into European hands.

I was out on one day in a street near our quarters, when, hearing a
tremendous screaming, apparently of a woman in distress, I ran quickly
to the house whence the cries issued, and found a seaman ill-treating a
young native girl. I didn’t wait for apology or explanation, but simply
knocked him down with the butt of my pistol, asking him if he thought
his conduct was manly. He attempted no reply or retaliation, and walked
off. The poor girl looked very grateful at me for the unexpected
deliverance, and I took her into a neighbouring house, where plenty of
her own sex had congregated; they, seeing me lead her in, mistook my
intentions, and I was quickly surrounded by a mob, out of which I had
to escape, pursued by a volley of missiles, none of which, however,
were very weighty.

Of course the provost-marshal was a great man, and woe to the
inquisitive invaders whom he happened to catch straggling, for away
they were marched to his quarters, and ere long their backs bore
testimony of the harshness of military discipline.

I was once out near the east gate, on an exploring expedition, when I
espied this hated functionary and his myrmidons. They saw me. I took to
my heels, encumbered as I was with my cutlass and pistol; they after
me. “Stop, stop!” sung out the marshal. “Stop, or I’ll fire!” “Fire
away, old fellow!” said I, and continued running. “You’d better stop!”
But I didn’t; when--ping! whistled a bullet past me, striking the hilt
of my cutlass on its way. My pursuers were now close behind me, when,
seeing a house with open door ahead, I rushed in and slammed the door;
but, being hard pressed, had scarcely time to look round when they were
at the entrance. The door soon yielded, but just as they, infuriated
with the chase, rushed in, I jumped out at the window, a height of
about six feet, and skulking along among the ruins of shattered houses,
escaped from the clutches of the law, glad enough when I got back again
to our quarters. ‘Looting,’ or straggling, had been forbidden by the
admiral, but our superiors used to wink at it, for their own especial
benefit; so at least we thought.

Not a very great way from our quarters at Canton, and near the east
gate, among the riddled and half-burned houses, stood the remains
of some prisons, which, judging from their building and wretched
unaccommodations, could never have been used for important criminals.
They contained long rows of cells, barely big enough to hold one man
chained; badly roofed, and quite open to the gaze of the brutal public.
I never had the ill-luck to be shut up in a Chinese prison, but if all
the rest are like those I saw at Canton, any bungler who could pile up
bricks and mortar could build state prisons in China.

In the east quarter of the city is the execution-ground. From one of
the numerous eastern thoroughfares you suddenly come upon a dead wall,
which has one small doorway. Enter, and you have before you a dark
square, enclosed by four walls--the scene of Yeh’s atrocious massacres.
Here, within this blood-stained square, thousands of unfortunate
Celestials have fallen victims to that rascal’s insatiable thirst for
human blood. The place looks gloomy and foul, and we were glad to get
away from its sickening atmosphere and its suggestions of dying cries
and fruitless appeals for mercy.

The price given for taking off a human head, as I was told, is half
a dollar, which brings many applicants for the office of public
executioner. But he, like other public functionaries, has to pass an
examination in order to prove himself fit for the sanguinary duty, and
exhibit his skill with the sword in shaving a pumpkin into thin slices
with one cut of his weapon. If his first trial be not satisfactory,
he tries again and again till he “passes.” I never had the brutal
curiosity to witness an execution, but have been told that beheading
is a merciful death, the head being invariably severed at one blow. An
executioner who strikes more than once is immediately disgraced and
dismissed his office.

One day, just before we left the city, I had an opportunity of
witnessing a “white affair,” as the Chinese term their funerals.
Judging from the noise and irreverence that prevail, I should say
they have no notion of solemnity in connexion with a funeral, but,
on the contrary, regard it as something jolly. The one I saw was
the funeral of a mandarin, and was therefore on a grand scale, very
different from a poor fellow’s funeral. The procession was headed by
four coolies bearing on a bamboo a small miniature temple, tenanted by
Tien-Hows (Queens of Heaven) and Josses, and carved and gilt within
and without, according to the prevalent fashion. Next came on other
four coolies, bearing, on a slight stage, decorated with coloured
paper, a clean white cloth thrown over it, a huge roast pig, swimming
in fat, and garnished with sundry to me unknown ingredients, besides
small trays of confectionery, cakes, drinks, and so on. Following these
came an individual whom I put down as a priest, who was there for the
purpose of comforting, or imparting ghostly counsel, bearing on his
head what looked like a conical tin hat; he was accompanied by one of
the friends of the deceased, dressed also in white, carrying in his
hand a large bundle of pieces of white paper, cut into moderate-sized
squares, having a small gilt spot in the centre. At every few steps
he disengaged a few of these favours, throwing one to the right, one
to the left, as the procession travelled on. Next in order came the
deceased nobleman’s body-guard, in number about thirty, each bearing
his implement of office; for instance, the butcher a tremendously long
knife, which he flourished with evident delight; the gardener a hoe or
mattock; and the executioner a placard setting forth, doubtless, the
number of victims during the past or present week. The others carried
badges according to their office, and most of them were dressed in
fantastic garments. Following these came the musicians, making a
fearful noise with their various instruments, the principal of which
was a machine emitting sounds like those of a Scotch bagpipe, but not
quite so musical. Then the corpse, in one of the native manufactured
coffins, resembling a huge packing-case, profusely ornamented and
varnished, and carried by eight coolies in divers shabby coloured
garments. Then the mourners, chief among whom may have been the son,
apparently so much stricken with grief that two attendants supported
him. When the procession stopped to allow the bearers to rest, this
dutiful child suddenly changed his tone for one of great merriment,
laughing and talking with the followers, as if he were at a play
instead of his father’s funeral. So much for filial feeling! Among
the mourners were several women, all more or less habited in white,
according to their degree of relationship to the deceased. Several
mandarins on led horses followed them, laughing and joking loudly;
and a score or so of household dependants brought up the rear. All
the white garments looked very fusty, and were put on with studied
negligence, in order to give an idea of a total abandonment to grief.

And so the procession passed along, sometimes silently, sometimes
making a precious hubbub, till they arrived at one of the piers upon
the river, where, waiting for them alongside the pier, lay a large
well-built mandarin junk. The body was first put in, then the small
temple and pig, and lastly the mourners and musicians stepped on board.
Sail was made, and the junk glided away down the river, the white
favours being strewed at intervals upon the water. They were bound to
Whampoa, the deceased’s native place, and there he was to be buried
according to invariable Chinese custom.

At last, after fifteen days “hard laying,” as we said, and just as
we had got settled in our newly-pitched tents, we had to return to
our ship, having been away seventeen days. Our hammocks felt soft in
comparison with the Chinaman’s ground, but most of us felt sorry that
our campaign had been so brief and so unremunerative in excitement.




CHAPTER VI.

 More Grumbling--Sailing Orders: Hurra!--A Trial of Patience--Sail from
    Hong-Kong for Shanghai--Beating past Formosa--Danger ahead--’Bout
    Ship--An anxious Moment--The Danger escaped--Woosung--Anchor
    at Shanghai--The Nobs--Life in the Streets--Coolie
    Jams--Sedan-bearers’ Salutes--Shops and Shopkeepers--Buddhist
    Temple--The Worshippers--Ogling and carving--Divination by
    Sticks--Big Ear and Big Eye--Yankee Rowdies--Broken Heads--Hot
    Weather--Patience rewarded--A Parcel from Home--An Alarm--Attempt
    at Murder--Feeders on Christians--You English one Rogue--Fern
    Tea--Carrion Food--A Rat Scramble--Sea Spawn--Chinese and English
    Landscapes--Chinese Painters and Pile-drivers--Fourth of July--Dogs
    and Sailors classed together--A Warning to Old Ugly--Funeral Rites.


January 1st, 1858.--My entry in the journal for the day runs thus:
“Here we are, still in the river, grumbling at long delay, and wanting
to be sent out of it.” Nothing of importance happened, and we filled
up our time with ordinary duty and more growling till the 14th of
February, when we received orders to go to Shanghai, and all were very
glad at the prospect of a change; for my part, I was positively happy
in expectation of soon again dancing upon blue water.

So we left the river for Hong-Kong, where we arrived about the time
of the mail from England, and soon got our letters. Mine informed me
that a young lieutenant of the _Sanspareil_ had kindly brought me out
a parcel, and I asked leave to go and fetch it, but was refused as we
were under sailing orders, and I had to exercise patience and hope
for the best. We sailed from Hong-Kong on the 10th of March; it was
nasty dirty weather, and the north-west monsoon was blowing dead in
our teeth. On the 14th we were beating to windward of the Island of
Formosa; in tacking we stood close in shore, which presented a fine
appearance, being bold and high; in some parts woodland and heath, deep
valleys and swelling plains. The water is very deep close in shore; but
we saw no good harbours. On the 16th we were bowling along handsomely,
the weather being squally, and thick and hazy, hiding from us a small
island which we expected to weather, when a startling incident took
place. Bow look-outs had been placed about a quarter of an hour, when
the man to the starboard sang out in hurry and alarm, “Land on the
starboard bow, close aboard.” The mist had partially cleared away,
suddenly revealing to us a rock about two cables’ length distant; its
craggy sides looming fearfully grim through the yet misty offing. This
danger, startling as it was, was met coolly and promptly as soon as
discovered; the first-luff sprang upon the netting, and with a decisive
energy equal to the emergency, delivered his orders, which, however,
the seamen hardly needed. “’Bout ship,” and “ease off head sheets,”
“haul over the boom,” and “ready, ho!” followed in quick succession.
Then a profound silence, while all gazed anxiously at the motion of
the ship as with the helm ‘hard over,’ she fell off rapidly. Then was
thundered out “Mainsail haul,” and all the after-yards were swung and
braced up on the opposite tack. The topsail and huge mainsail flapped
and shivered for a moment, one of intense anxiety, and then--what a
relief--bellied out bravely to the breeze. On looking astern, we saw
the rock close to us, rising high and threatening, and a caldron of
waves boiling and surging at its base. But attend! “Haul of all!”
resounded along the deck; we swung and braced up the head yards, hauled
the bowlines, and dashed away from the danger so mercifully escaped. A
few moments more and our gallant corvette would have been a wreck, and
our fate would not have been recorded in these pages.

On the seventeenth day after leaving Hong-Kong we arrived at Woosung,
and steamed up the river to Shanghai, and our anchor was soon down in
the soft, thick, but firm mud of the dirty Chinese stream.

The city stands on the east bank. In the English quarter the houses are
large and well built, streets clean and decent, with a fair proportion
of shops, native as well as European. The river is about half a mile
wide; along the bank runs the Bund, a broad terrace, on which, backed
by the houses, is a smooth road, and plenty of room for passengers.
Here, in the cool of the evening, the “nobs” of Shanghai, as we used
to call them, used to drive or walk, and create a fashionable bustle.
The residences of the consuls, built after European fashion, are
fine large buildings, and more like palaces than private dwellings.
The Chinese city lies more to the east, and is a large, busy, dirty,
and uncomfortable place. It has four massive gateways resembling a
tunnel built in the wall, which are closed every night. The streets
are so narrow that three persons can with difficulty walk abreast;
they are miserably ill-paved, and all kinds of filth being thrown
into them, the stench is fearful; there’s a precious sight more than
“two-and-seventy,” as old Archy said one day to me after a ramble
through the city.

There is plenty to see, and plenty to see you. Now a string of coolies
come trotting along with wood, fish, and vegetables, or some other such
universal commodity. Stand clear you must, or they will run over you,
so wishing the fellows anything but good luck, you jam yourself against
the wall and let them pass. You have but partially recovered from your
jam, and are looking in admiration at some fine delicate silk-work, and
wishing you had enough money to buy it, when bang comes against you
some high dignitary’s sedan-chair, carried by bearers in showy livery.
You probably salute the sternmost one with a kick for his rudeness,
and your vengeance is appeased. These bearers would sooner run against
you than sing out and warn you of their approach. And everywhere you
find the streets infested with beggars, who are quite as importunate
as the tribe in Ireland are, or used to be, begging from foreigner or
countryman alike.

The shops have no front, but are quite open, and the houses are
generally low, with only a single room above the shop, sometimes with a
low balcony outside, embellished with a variety of carving and varnish
so as to appear smart to the by-passer. The shops are made to serve
as eating and smoking rooms also, for the masters and their men are
often to be seen having their chow-chow on the counter, or falling
asleep behind it over their pipe of opium, which most of them smoke
to a degree perfectly astounding. The shopkeepers are mostly very
obsequious, and those of the same trade dwell together, so that here
we have a community of tea-dealers, whose neighbourhood is fragrant
with the smell of the refreshing herb; farther on, shoemakers, who
sit as our own do, but don’t make the same kind of shoe; farther yet
are booksellers, and opposite to us again a bevy of bankers. The
booksellers are the quietest and neatest traders, and no doubt they
keep on hand a large stock of the Life of Confucius: “Confuse-us,” as
our men called him.

I went, in the middle of the city, into a temple, and saw how they
worshipped and offered up to that venerable monstrosity--the effigy
of Buddha. The building was lofty, large, and gloomy, with a damp
brick floor, showed no signs of beauty, and was, moreover, full of
the sickly smell of Joss-stick incense. Joss himself was in the main
building abutting on the entrance; on a dais hung with crimson drapery
and enthroned in state. Numbers of worshippers were bowing down to him
with many genuflexions; a large fire was burning in a brazen vase, into
which the worshippers cast pieces of scented paper of an oval form.
But the total want of earnestness in the worshippers surprised me.
Here was a woman just before me on her knees, muttering and making a
motion it is true, but all the while ogling a young priest; and their
grins and soft looks were mutual. Yonder a young lad was praying away
very hard, but at the same time, carving something out of a piece of
wood with a knife. Some of the devotees had come to know the issue of
an expedition they were about to take; others to see if they could
venture on a voyage. Mothers came to solicit a male child as the first
one; and young damsels came to find husbands. The way they found out
all this was, by tossing up two sticks, and by the direction in which
they fell, or as they lay after their fall, so did the priest interpret
the failure or success of the undertaking. Sometimes the applicants,
not liking the construction the priests put upon it, had come to a
conclusion for themselves, and going before Joss, prostrated and
returned thanks, and went out of the temple seemingly satisfied. Bob
Brady, one of our party, after being silent a long time, said, “He’d be
hanged, though, if that didn’t lick him all together; he wondered where
they’d all go to some day.”

I saw many of them praying to a big-eared god, under the impression,
perhaps, that he could hear everything they said, and to another with
large eyes, with the notion that he could see all their faults; but I
should say they might spare themselves that trouble, for the one who
sees all surely ought to be able to hear all.

However, I liked my first ramble in a Chinese city, for we were not
allowed to ramble at Canton, and I was interested with the strangeness
and singularity of the place and the people, with only one drawback,
that of having to keep my handkerchief pretty constantly to my nose to
intercept the dreadful smells.

Just as I was coming down the pier to get a boat and to go on board,
I was witness to an affray between American men-of-war’s men and
certain Chinese boatmen. These Yankees, with their usual bombast
and swagger, had interfered with and ill-treated the Chinamen, who,
being roused, made common cause against the enemy, and rushed to the
scene of contention armed with long bamboos, which they used freely
on Jonathan’s head; the seamen were soon surrounded by numbers, and
though they made a mad defence, two of their party were left bleeding
and stunned upon the Bund, while the others fled into sanpans near the
pier and there tried to mollify their opponents. At first the enraged
Celestials would come to no terms; and again made show of another
assault; but for some reason their mob diminished, they gave up the
contest, and the crestfallen Minnesotas were allowed to land and carry
away their wounded from the inglorious battle-field.

May, the month of sweet-blossoming hedgerows where English breezes
blow, brought us beautiful but intensely hot weather; thermometer 114°,
which compelled us to stretch our double awnings. Often all day a nice
cool breeze came up the river, softening the intense heat, and making
the smoking stream look like molten lava in rapid motion.

By the first mail which followed us to Shanghai I got my parcel; the
young lieutenant having taken the trouble to forward it; for which
kindness I here present him my thanks. I cut the string eagerly, and
was delighted on turning out what lay underneath: English books, and
all from home: there were _Airy’s Astronomical Lectures_, _The House
with the Seven Gables_, and other works of pleasant reading. Many a
weary hour did they beguile! I read some of them to messmates and
shipmates, and after a time they got well thumbed by frequent lending.

One night we were all turned in, and lying comfortably about the
main-deck under the awning, when the silence was rudely broken and
the sleepers were awakened by the shrill pipe and rough voice of the
boatswain’s mate: “’Way there, launchers; hurry up, now, hurry up!
Bring your cutlasses with you!” We all started up to see what was the
matter, when we learned there had been an attempt to murder on board
a Dutch merchant ship lying just ahead of us. Our launch brought the
culprit on board and his intended victim, whose throat was bleeding
profusely from a cut not very deep, but awkward and painful. One or
two more of the crew also came with their comrades. I couldn’t help
laughing at the wounded man’s narrative of the affair. He began in
imperfect English: “I vas lying in my bunk you know; it vas in de
middle of de night, when I see de door of de galley open; and a man
poke his head in and say, Who are you? I am cook, I say! Den he say
again, Cook, I was kill you. I say, Oh no; no kill me, kill pig; when
he cut me vit de long knife and I roop out and you English man-o’-war
hear!” One of the other men said, “He was hear noise and cook sing out
murder, and so he was yump off de yib-boom into yolly-boat in one yump,
and come to de man-o’-war.” There being no Dutch consul in Shanghai,
the murderous fellow was sent to Hong-Kong.

The weather grew hotter and hotter: the only relief we got was in
the cool of the evening; but with this relief we had the annoyance
of mosquitoes. As you lie comfortably with the faint breeze fanning
your heated brow, one comes buzzing about your ear, and presently you
are assailed by millions, which dart upon the feet and ankles. You
get up and walk about, thinking that during your absence the tiny
tormentors may have cleared out; but no! You return and find them just
as voracious and numerous as ever. And so it continues in one unceasing
battle against the swarming foe; till quite wearied and exasperated,
you fall into uneasy slumber. “Well, Bill, how d’ye fare?” “Oh!” slap,
slap; “bless the mosquitys, you know what I mean, they’ll eat a fellow
alive.” “Yes! and what pauls me, they won’t touch the Long-tails; but
don’t they feed on Christians! Why, they walked off with the slack of
my blanket last night.”

The _Antelope_ steamer came in to-day from the North, bringing the
news that a treaty had been signed between France and England and his
Celestial Majesty, by which the entire seaboard was to be opened to
foreigners, and an indemnity paid to the allies. This is what puzzles
the Chinese mightily. “You makee bobbery up Pekin,” they say; “you
makee take city, all same rebels; you piecey soldier makee stop Canton,
by’m by you go! Chinaman have pay you plenty dollar. This no right me
thinkee; no ploper. You English one rogue; you no speakee true.”

In my rambles about the city I saw the process of tea-drying and
sorting by men, women, and children, just as I had read about it in
books at home. I saw them also doctoring tea which had been damaged by
water. Many of the poor people, unable to buy, or not caring for tea,
use an infusion of a large broad-leafed fern; it has a bitter taste and
is extremely yellow in colour, and they appear surprised that you do
not appreciate its goodness as well as themselves.

In passing through Chinese streets, you meet with such abominations in
the shape of food as would suffice to overturn the soundest or coarsest
of nautical stomachs: stewed cats, rats, and young puppies are in
great demand; and you may see urchins and old men ogling a string of
stewed or roasted rats, a boiled mess of toads, or a finely-browned
young puppy, with watery mouths and wistful eyes; and here another
fellow at the corner will be trying to cheapen a mess of fish-spawn,
dirt and all.

Rat seems to be an especial treat, for let the cabin-boy of a European
ship hold up a captured rat above the bulwarks, and immediately there
is a rush and scramble from all the tea-lighters alongside; each man
striving to be first to grab the coveted game.

Pork seems to be an especially favourite article of food; and you
may see all sorts of nasty-looking doughy cakes, and dough made from
rice-flour, sold hot in vast quantities.

Another disgusting mess, and one which the common people eat with great
relish, is a medley of small sea-slugs and snails and weedy-looking
things, all put together and thrown into a large deep earthenware
jar, where they remain in salt water till they smell strongly, when I
suppose they are good eating. I noticed at Lucong that the people ate
large quantities of this.

I have not said anything yet about the scenery of Shanghai, so I may
as well begin. The country is one dead plain, sparsely ornamented with
willows and fine low leafy trees; every available inch of ground, as
it were, is tilled, the very footpaths being exceedingly narrow. Near
Woosung, on the south bank of the river, the country is well wooded and
finely cultivated, paddy and rye-fields stretching away on each side;
but there is still the same vast level.

The Chinese scenery, so far as I saw, is very different from English:
there are no fine, deep, luxuriant valleys, no lofty and large clumps
of trees; but uncultivated land is rare, except in hilly districts,
and the country is like an endless, well-cultivated garden. The
hedgerows and the pastoral sheep, the richly-laden orchards, the fine
old hoary monarchs of the forest, the babbling and sparkling wayside
brook, affording music and refreshment to the traveller--and, above
all, the wonder-speaking flowers in every nook and corner such as we
are accustomed to at home--are wanting in China; where, as it seems to
me, the leading features are level fields and barren hilly wastes as
burial-grounds.

One day some native painters came on board to re-decorate our capstan:
their pots were much the same as those used by our own painters, but
in their tools and methods they were very different. All their tools
are small and flat, somewhat like a grainer’s brush, and take up but
a small quantity of paint, consequently the workmen dip frequently.
The colour was pretty well mixed, and Johnny showed himself an adept
at thinning with turpentine. The ‘dryers,’ or what I took to be such,
was a pale liquid without smell, but which has a cold feeling; this
mixed freely with the paint causes it to dry quickly. But if all the
Celestial workmen are as slow as the party I am describing, they do
their best to carry out their own precept, which exhorts them to put
off whatever they can till to-morrow; allow them to take their own time
and you get your work done well; but hurry them with repeated “Chop!
chop! Johnny!” and you may as well whistle for rude Boreas.

The same applies to labourers on shore. I watched a party who were
pile-driving, using for that purpose a big ram, to which they all
tailed on. Then the leader commenced a song of which “Yah” was the
general burden; with the word “Yah,” down went the ponderous ram,
and the stake was driven in a little bit; and the song went on till
“Yah” came round again, about ten minutes distant from the first
“Yah,” so that you couldn’t exactly apply the term “hard-working”
to those fellows. But some of the coolies who carry the tea from
the warehouses to the piers work very hard; one of these men thinks
nothing of carrying six chests of tea on his bamboo yoke. I saw two of
them carrying a 90-gallon cask of rum from the store, and they didn’t
make a bit of fuss about it. These men, too, have a habit of uttering
musically as they trot along with a heavy load, keeping step with one
another, the phrase “A ugh,” “A ugh,” and as each one intones it in
turn, it sounds very pleasing.

But while I am talking about all this, the 4th of July overtook
us. We fired a royal salute and dressed ship in honour of Brother
Jonathan. The skippers of the American ships in port made a present of
two bottles of stout to each one of our ship’s company, in which we
cordially drank success to the republicans. In the evening there was
a great firing of cannon from the merchant shipping, and the Yankee
consulate was brightly illuminated.

Talking about Yankees, there’s a precious lot of them in Shanghai;
they live by trading, keeping grog-shops, boarding-houses, and by
‘beach-combing,’ which, in their own phrase, means loafing about on
shore. Once while passing the Yankee Presbyterian chapel in their own
part of the settlement, seeing the door open, I was about to satisfy
my curiosity, and take a peep at the interior, when a placard caught
my eye, “DOGS AND SAILORS NOT ADMITTED;” so I passed on, wondering to
myself whether the fellow who planned it looked like a wise man or not.
The same notice appears on the door-posts of their sporting houses.

In one of my rambles, I came suddenly upon a crowd of natives, chiefly
of the working classes, and being desirous to ascertain the cause of
the gathering, I went up to them, and found a party busily digging
up a body, which they carefully handled, but not so carefully as to
prevent its falling in pieces. These pieces were collected and placed
in a new coffin at the head of the grave, together with a new suit of
clothes and a hat, for the deceased to make a respectable appearance
elsewhere, I presume. At the foot of the grave six wax tapers were kept
burning as an offering to Joss, while every few moments they discharged
a volley of crackers, and lighted Joss-papers to keep Old Ugly at bay.
I afterwards learned that people were in the habit (if not able to
pay for a funeral) of burying the dead in some convenient place, and
after a sufficient sum had been raised by a little extra industry, or
by a little less opium and samshu, the body was dug up and placed in
a coffin, as before stated, and buried in some proper spot. A little
thatched or tiled house is built over the grave, according to the means
of the surviving relatives.

The graves of the rich are built of stone, something like a horse-shoe
in shape, neatly carved, and exhibiting pretty good workmanship; a
chamber is dug in the hill-side for the coffin, and the entrance is
ornamented by this stone-work, and closed by a stone door. When a body
is interred, it is brought in procession, as described in a former
chapter, to the grave, and after various ceremonies the body is placed
in the chamber, the food placed by its side, the door is closed and
a seal put upon it, not to be disturbed till the annual season comes
round for repeating the memorial rites.

This annual visiting the tombs is, I believe, looked forward to for
a long time by both old and young; and as the day approaches, great
preparations are made in the shape of pastiles, sweetmeats, bunches
of flowers--real and artificial--evergreens, and so forth. Upon the
day, the hill-sides leading to the tombs are alive, as it were, with
groups of devotees, come after a year’s absence to show their unabated
veneration for the dead. The door of the tomb is opened, the chamber is
swept out and garnished with flowers, and a fresh supply of sweetmeats
placed by the coffin; then offerings are made, the friends gaze once
more upon their beloved dead, the door is again closed and sealed, and
the body is left to its long repose. Upon leaving the tomb, crackers
innumerable are let off, and lighted pieces of paper flung for the
purpose before mentioned.

The poor people make no display in their interments, but bury their
dead in their gardens and fields. The river population, and those
living on the banks, seem to have no regard for their dead at all. I
think they must be devoid of natural feeling, or, perhaps, poverty
pressing grievously upon them makes them callous, for in the waters
round about Canton, Shanghai, Whampoa, floating dead bodies are quite
common--it is loathsome to see so many; sometimes, also, bodies are
swathed in mats and laid on the banks of the stream, in solitary places
or in lonesome creeks clear of the tide. At night, little corpse-lights
are placed at the head and foot; the solitary watcher, faintly visible
by the dim light, keeping them replenished till daybreak.




CHAPTER VII.

 The dead Sister’s Plate and Chopsticks--Tremendous Feat--A
    Chinese Theatre--Poor Stuff--The Mail--Excitement--The Rush
    for Jondy--Do your Duty, come what may--One Piecey English
    Thief--Nigpoo Tom--Brawling Boatmen--Baby Boatmen--Buoys for
    Baby-boys--Pastimes--A Cruise for Health--Lucong--Picturesque
    Scenery--Forget-me-not--Hospitable Cottagers--Their
    Dinner--Libations of Samshu--Seamen’s Distraction--Lucong
    Farmers--Thrashing Machine--The Joss-house--A Surprise--More
    Hospitality--A Dinner in Public--Number One Piecey--A Party
    for the _Inflexible_--Help for _Laplace_--Ingenious Steering
    Contrivance--Towing a Cripple.


Another observance relative to the dead I also had the fortune to
witness. I had eaten a dinner in a Chinaman’s house, and afterwards sat
on one side and witnessed the proceedings of my host, whose chief fare
was rice. While watching, I remarked a plate of food, with chopsticks,
set apart from the rest by a vacant seat. I asked for an explanation,
and was informed that their dead sister would come and eat her
chow-chow by-and-by; but if, as it generally happens, the spirit didn’t
come, perhaps having something better on its own table, the untouched
food would be thrown reverently away.

In this same July we heard from Canton that the city is very unsettled,
threatened with a night attack from the Braves: I fancied they would
find out their mistake if they attempted it. With this weather in
view for another three months, and the thermometer from 125° to 130°,
one need be made of marble, or live in “marble halls,” for even when
writing, or doing nothing, the perspiration pours from one copiously:
so that even a slight exertion in a fervid climate is attended with
discomfort. The song says, “A sailor was made for all weathers,” but I
think he as little relishes melting as any one. I used in England to
think 80° very hot; but I am quite submissive now at 100°.

About this time, being on shore, I went to a Chinese theatre. There
were no scenes, and the acting, which was very indifferent, consisted
of a series of contortions, accompanied by much volubility; the
actors, who had painted their faces, and wore gaudy dresses and
hats, represented very magnificent characters. In their comic pieces
their gestures are very amusing, and sometimes they like to talk
big; making use of such expressions as they fancy will suit the mood
of the audience. For instance, an actor bounces on the stage with,
“My brother, who is noble, has the name of Lintsienchesfou, and he
sometimes resides in Tchingkiangfoo, that great trading city, where
are the great and magnificent junks which struck terror into the
barbarians.” Their singing is execrable; they haven’t the slightest
regard for tune, but pour out one unbroken monotonous squall. Most of
their instruments are stringed, but whether their players are skilful
or not, who can tell? The audience behave pretty decently, but chatter
incessantly. The men of our ship used to take great delight in these
exhibitions, and they laughed as if they were never going to cease;
whistling shrilly; clapping and applauding, declaring “if it wasn’t
enough to make a cat laugh.”

With what great anxiety do we look forward out here to the arrival
of the mail. Every one is asking when is it due? Is it come in yet?
And it is amusing to watch the changes of countenance, as one lucky
fellow who always has letters, is talking to a comrade who seldom gets
one. The first is all animation, the other gloomy and desponding. The
steamer that brings the mail from Hong-Kong has to perform quarantine
at Woosung, at the mouth of the river, the land portion is brought up
on horseback; and we could always see the postman go by at a headlong
pace along the land, pitching the bags of letters down at the gates
of the respective houses without any stopping. Then it was that heads
were thrust out of ports with cries of “There go the runners; the
mail’s in,” and the buzz of anticipation and excitement was heard along
the decks. The naval mail travels by water in a fast-sailing junk, in
charge of an officer of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, which is
easily known by its carrying the Company’s flag--a small square, with
one corner white, another yellow, the third blue, and the fourth red.
A boat was then sent from the senior officer for the boxes of letters;
soon they were aboard and in the captain’s cabin to be sorted. Then up
went two or three little coloured rolls of bunting to the mast-head,
where they broke and displayed to other ships of war in harbour the
welcome signal of _Send for letters_. As soon as the letters were
sorted out came Jondy, master-at-arms, with the mail box; every one had
been on the look-out for him; and such a tremendous rush was made aft
to his table, where, with the box before him, and his hands full, he
sung out loudly the names of the owners of the much-coveted letters.
“Hillo, Bill, what’s up? You look down on yer luck; didn’t she write
again this time?” “Write be bothered, no; she’s run away with a soger.”
“Well, if people won’t write to me, I won’t to them; s’pose they’re
getting too good.” “John,” they used to shout to me, “here’s a bushel
basket-full for you; by Jove! you always has one.”

None but an exile can tell the pleasure of getting news from his
far-away home. My friends never forgot me, and to my letters from home
I was indebted for something that cheered weary waiting hours, and
reminded me always to “do my duty, come what may.”

Here in Shanghai are a set of native boatmen who ply to and from the
shipping and the shore; but I advise you to fight shy of them, for they
are the veriest scoundrels in existence: not content with their proper
fare, fifty cash, or half a mace, they demand three times that sum;
and if the stranger be not sufficiently learned in their ways, he will
give them what they demand, which, of course, only serves to increase
their exorbitant demands. If you refuse them they abuse you shamefully,
and no doubt are not very choice in their epithets, especially if
they be acquainted with a little English of the low stamp, which they
generally soon acquire from seamen. Then it will be, “You one piecey
English thief; you one big foolo--you no goodee,” and other less
elegant expressions. If a party of seamen happen to be so served, it
is something as follows: “Knock him down!” “Heave the Chinee lubber
overboard!” “Choke his luff!” and so on.

These same fellows are very proud of keeping their boats clean and
neat, and have generally one or more ships’ names tacked to the
stern--for instance, as follows: _Jack Leg, No. 1, Arcadia_; _Nigpoo
Tom, No. 1, boatman, Hibernia_; _Canton Jack, first No. 1, Sovereign of
the Seas_; and many others in the same style. They lie alongside the
pier, and, when they see a seaman coming, accost him in a volley with
“Sanpan, sanpan, mine very goote; go ship, Jack--my boat.” Others not
so far advanced in their knowledge of languages, resort to practical
measures, and pull you forcibly along, uttering quickly, “Ugh, ugh,”
and shove you into their boat, and scull away vigorously amid the
growling of their mates.

Once, on going ashore, I paid the fellow his usual fare, with which
he appeared quite content, but upon my stepping out of the boat, he
ran after me, crying out, “Piecey more, piecey more.” As I knew I had
given him enough, I walked on, but he beginning to be troublesome, I
turned suddenly round, took him by the collar and shook him vigorously,
telling him I’d call a policeman if he didn’t “wylo” (go away);
whereupon he sheered off in double-quick time, while I watched his
retreating figure, laughing heartily.

The Chinese mothers swathe their infants up till they somewhat resemble
mummies, and a stranger might easily take them as preparations for the
Pyramids, were it not for the little yells occasionally emitted from
them. I have often seen mothers with their infants strapped across
their backs in the general manner, sculling their boat along, and
unconsciously smoking their opium pipe, the little infant partaking
of all its mother’s movements. Common rumour says that carrying the
children thus is the reason why they have flat noses, which is a marked
feature among the Chinese. The little ones are generally very agile,
and seem very intelligent when quite young. A mere child may be seen
often managing a sanpan with the greatest ease, or, as seamen say, “as
if he’d been born with an oar in his fist.” The younger children are
always kept near the mother in the stern of the boat; she seems very
attentive and kind to them. The youngsters have a gourd attached to
their waists, so that in case of tumbling overboard the gourd would
buoy them up and afford a chance for rescue. But it is only the boys
who are thus protected; if a girl falls it is a good riddance of so
much live lumber. Most of the Celestial children are as joyous and gay
as urchins in our own land, and many games common to little English
youngsters are not unknown to the Chinese juveniles: kite flying,
playing shuttlecock with the soles of the feet and palms of the hand,
choosing one of their own number as Kwang or Emperor, besides pitch and
toss and bounce halfpenny--all these they play very adroitly, entering
into them with hearty spirit. Even grown-up people take great delight
in shuttlecock; and will fly kites for half a day at a stretch with
as much solemn enjoyment as is shown by the spectators on an English
cricket-ground.

On the 29th of September our anchor was lifted for the first time for
more than eight months, and we went on a cruise to recruit the health
of our numerous sick. We got as far as Woosung that night, and lay
there to await the arrival of the mail, before making a final start.
In the afternoon of the next day, the mail having come in, we left
Woosung, and in the evening were off Lucong, a hilly island--one of the
Chusans. The landing is rather difficult, on account of the sharpness
of the rocks, and a long low swell which sometimes sets in.

The town, situate a few miles up a small creek, is very thriving and
populous, as, indeed, are many Chinese towns; and it does a great trade
with other islands in fish and vegetables.

The country is very picturesque, and seemed the more so to us after our
long spell of flat landscapes. The heights are bold towards the sea,
but more inland there are fine broad fields, cool valleys, and nice
well-clothed hills dotted with little farms and villages, watered by
small streams, margined and overhung by willows, and the banks prettily
strewed with flowers. How we enjoyed our liberty on shore! and how glad
was I to find among the flowers the sweet little forget-me-not! What
a host of pleasant recollections did that little flower recal! and I
sat on the bank of that pleasant stream all the afternoon, trying to
deceive myself with the notion that I was at home, and my friends were
about me in the shape of the sweet forget-me-nots.

I had several opportunities of going ashore. I hope I used my eyes to
my own improvement; I am sure I did to my enjoyment. It was gratifying,
after a long confinement to shipboard, to step ashore amid the
freshness of nature and the novelties of a strange country. The men,
too, seemed to enjoy it, and many of them were for a “feed of grass;”
and some said “they felt glad they were alive.”

The peasantry were very hospitable and simple, inviting us by signs
into their cottages, which were built mostly of stones and mud, and
thatched with paddy. Bare earth formed the floor; in one corner stood
the copper for cooking; in another lay a heap of what appeared to be
rubbish; the remainder of the walls was occupied by shelves, containing
crockery; and the floor was occupied by a bed, a round table, and three
bamboo stools. The inmates set before us such as they themselves ate:
rice, callaloo, a kind of cabbage and fish, with their favourite drink,
samshu--a spirit that seemed to me disgusting in taste and smell. Our
men did not seem to like the look of the fare at all. “I say, Bob,
there’s swamp-seed and turmit-tops--that’s a fine feed for a Christian.
Why, I wouldn’t give a dog of mine that stuff--no, strike me lucky, I
wouldn’t.” However, a good many of the men made no difficulty with
the samshu; and did nothing upon first getting ashore but smoke and
drink “sam,” as they called it. Of course, Sam often proved a powerful
fellow, and made his votaries either beastly or ridiculous; and some
would find a surprising resemblance to brother Tom in a sober messmate,
or display very amiable feelings towards some tree-stump. Others were
just the opposite, and nothing would prevent them from quarrelling and
making a noise; in fact, they only appeared to have acted up to what
they said before going on shore, “Anything to distract the brain.”

The people of Lucong appear to be good husbandmen, and their land is
farmed well; and it might surprise some of our grumbling farmers to see
the product of their abundant harvests. They grind their corn by means
of a large hammer on the lever principle: it is worked in a bearing
or groove, supported by two uprights; a man treads on one end of it,
and causes it to rise; steps off again, and it descends into a large
jar or mortar sunk in the earth. The concussion of the hammer as it
descends causes the grain to shake up, so that it all comes under the
face of the hammer, and is crushed. The work is laborious, for the
hammer is heavy. I visited the Joss-house, and found it like others
at Canton and Hong-Kong, a gloomy, dingy building, smelling strongly
of disagreeable incense, and in the centre the ponderous god, with the
fire burning before him. The people of Lucong were decidedly the most
candid and open of the Chinese race I had yet seen. I was walking with
two shipmates, and we were remarking one to another what such and such
a patch of unknown vegetables might be, when we suddenly came upon a
small village, which a woody height had before hidden from our view. On
our appearance, a group of youngsters, who had been playing merrily,
scattered in the greatest alarm; but upon being coaxed and shown there
was no harm intended, and the present of a brass button, they ceased to
skulk, and we became good friends; the people, as usual, were extremely
hospitable, making us come into their houses and seat ourselves. Having
some fish with us which we had purchased, I asked one of the household
to get them cooked; and these, with tea and bread, which we had also
brought, made a refreshing meal after our long ramble.

It was quite amusing to see the Celestials during our meal; they
formed a circle round the doorway, gaping at us with the greatest
astonishment, evidently at a great loss to understand how it was we
moved our lower jaws. They examined our flesh, also turning up our
sleeves; they appeared greatly amazed at the whiteness of the skin,
tracing with childish delight our blue veins through their courses. I
was strictly overhauled; but stood the test. A mace--fourpence--and a
piece of _Illustrated News_, in payment for our accommodation, highly
delighted the old man of the house; they appeared mightily pleased with
the pictures, repeatedly exclaiming, “Number one piecey, number one
piecey; English piecey very goot;” and we parted with good feelings on
both sides.

We returned to Shanghai in time to celebrate the 5th of November; and
we burnt another guy with proper formalities.

On the 3rd of December, which was my birthday, I was sent with a
party to the _Inflexible_, she being under orders to proceed to the
assistance of the French war-steamer _Laplace_, which had unfortunately
run aground at Takshan, near the Chusans. The weather was bitterly
cold, or we felt it so; and as we steamed along head to wind it seemed
to cut right through us, who had been accustomed so long to the
warmth and heat of the sun. We found the Frenchman afloat, but with a
much-damaged rudder. It being Sunday when we arrived, of course we did
no work; but early next morning we paid out hawsers for towing, got up
anchor, and steamed along at a good speed, considering how wildly the
_Laplace_ steered. Her steering apparatus was very ingenious, and worth
observing. It consisted of two large vulcanised india-rubber buckets,
having a stout lanyard amidships and two smaller ones on each side;
the latter were used to flatten the bucket, and it would float on the
surface of the water, on one side or the other, and direct the vessel’s
head accordingly. But, on the second day of our towing, finding
there was not sufficient to keep her steady, the Frenchman rigged a
gun-carriage on a topsail-yard, which being launched over the taffrail
till deep enough in the water, the ship was steered by means of tackles
from the yard-arm to the side, and we soon found the benefit of it by
the lessened strain upon the hawsers.

We anchored the second evening under the lee of the rugged rocks, not
far from Takshan, and as it was blowing freshly, made ourselves snug
for the night by sending down top-gallant-masts and letting go another
anchor.




CHAPTER VIII.

 Preparing to tow--A Squabble--Drifting astern--Ease her! Stop
    her!--Coutez la Rope--Return to Shanghai--Another Christmas--New
    Year’s Day--Cold Weather--Freezing a Brass Monkey--Feast of
    Lanterns--Millions of Lights--Unfair Dealing--The unlucky
    Jeweller--Unlucky Greengrocer--Unworthy Englishmen--English
    Talkee--Chin-chin, Jack--Consequences of Idleness--Rambles on
    Shore--A Lower-deck at Dinner-time--Criticism on Beef--Yankee
    Navy _versus_ English Navy--A royal Reason why--The First Lord
    and the Grub--A Man of Bread--A few Remarks about Food--Very
    nice Meat--Night Quarters--A Broadside--Uproar--Obeying
    Instructions--Another Alarm--All adrift--A Yankee Skipper.


Next morning, the 5th, was very stormy, so we did not weigh; but on
the 6th we again prepared to tow, and as there was a lively sea on,
this was a matter of considerable difficulty, especially as the captain
of the _Inflexible_, instead of taking up a position ahead of the
Frenchman, where the hawsers would have been easily payed out, anchored
broadside on; consequently the hawsers felt the whole power of the
tide, about a five-knot current. The weigh-line not being sufficient
to bear the strain, was carried away again and again; so the “little
man,” as the men called him, lost his temper, and began abusing the
coxswain of the boat: “Tilly!” “Sir,” responded the seaman. “You’re a
lubber, sir--_you_ a petty officer, and don’t know how to lay a hawser
out! I’ll disrate you--by George! I will.” “I never asked _you_ for
it,” replied the irritated coxswain. “Very well--very well. I’ll flog
you, Tilly,” screamed the little man, panting with rage. “Mark my
words--I’ll flog you.” But this was all wind, for when the coxswain
came on board again, the captain begged his pardon, and told him he had
done his best.

As the anchor was hove up, we of course dropped gradually astern, and
one of the hawsers got foul of the paddle-wheel. Instantly the captain
cried, “Easy!--turn astern!--stop her!--half a turn ahead!” In fact,
he issued a string of contradictory orders, before we knew what it was
all about. Then came another: “Jump in the paddle-wheels, somebody, and
stand by to cut! Easy ahead! stop her!--now cut away!--hold on! hold
on!--don’t cut yet!--cut away!” “When shall I cut, sir?” “Don’t cut,
I tell you, and be hanged to you!” Then, with his French phrase-book
in his hand, he jumped on the paddle-box: “Monsieur le capitaine,
voulez vous couter la rope.” “Je ne vous comprends pas,” answered the
Frenchman. “Oh! coutez les hawse--coutez la rope, capitaine;” the
effect of which upon all within hearing may be imagined. I was standing
forward at the time, and heard one of the French officers say to our
boatswain--the ships being very close--“Vat your capitaine say? My God!
how he talk his Français!” Old Pipes, though he did not understand,
could not help laughing. Nevertheless, the Inflexibles all said of
their captain, “He very often barks, but never do bite.” And so, at
last, we brought the _Laplace_ to Woosung, where she parted from us and
sailed up the river to go into dock.

Two days after, on the 12th, we arrived at Shanghai, where I found all
messmates well and hearty, and beginning to think about Christmas Day.

This holiday, like the year before, passed off fairly; but there was
too much noise and drunkenness for me to enjoy it. In spirit I was at
home, and didn’t I wish I had been there bodily too.

January 1, 1859, was announced to us by the bell being struck sixteen
times, in the usual nautical style, and the band marching round,
playing _God save the Queen_ and _Auld lang Syne_, and some of the
wilder characters must needs arouse their quiet shipmates and make
noisy demonstrations, but by-and-by they went aft into the officers’
berths, and having got a glass of grog, they turned in, and were soon
quiet enough.

February the 3rd, the following appears in my log: “We have had it
very cold for the last fortnight; very keen winds; and to-day a fall
of snow.” It was quite a novelty, being the first we had seen since
leaving England. It was strange to see the upper-deck in the morning;
the rigging and yards were sprinkled with snow and frosted, and the
guns could be only distinguished by their shape, so completely were
they covered with the dazzling garment. This weather nipped us greatly,
and we kept below as much as possible. “Choo-ugh!” would come somebody
down into the mess. “What’s the matter, Tom; you looks cold.” “Cold!
why it’s enough to freeze a brass monkey, let alone a human being.” We
had rare fun while shovelling the snow from the decks, men and officers
snow-balling one another in right good earnest.

On the evening of the 15th was celebrated the Chinese Feast of
Lanterns, and all the boats and small craft on the river were gaudily
decorated with flags and streamers, and the meanest coolie put on his
best attire. During the day the Chinamen were continually exploding
crackers and other fireworks, and sending up rockets, and in the
evening the junks and boats, and the Chinese houses on shore, were well
lighted up by lanterns, while the inmates were merrily carousing, and
eating prodigiously of baked pork and rice, stewed cabbage and fish,
each dish being surrounded by numbers of small candles, which they
kept constantly burning. On this occasion every one who goes out after
nightfall is expected to carry a lantern, and on this night the Bund
facing the river was so covered with dancing lights, that you might
have fancied a swarm of big fire-flies was at play.

I have heard it stated that during this feast the number of lanterns
displayed throughout the empire, including the river craft, is two
hundred millions. What an assemblage if all made into a heap! They
would certainly startle his Celestial Majesty if he found them lying in
his palace garden some fine morning.

I have often seen the injustice and bad treatment towards the Chinese
who bring anything for sale on board the ship. One day a jeweller came
with native brooches, rings, and trinkets. No sooner did he get below,
and incautiously expose his goods, than he was pushed and jostled,
articles knocked from his hand, and before he had been ten minutes on
board he had lost much of his property. And again, one Sunday, early,
a Chinaman came with some fine lettuce and cauliflowers--rare things
to a seaman; he was served just the same as the jeweller, and the
poor fellow, sitting down in the middle of the gangway, sobbed like a
child, the men all the time making game of him. Had he gone aft to seek
redress, he would be pretty sure of a repulse, or perhaps get kicked
over the side. Poor Celestials! my sense of fair play was shocked by
this treatment, and it only shows the great blot upon an Englishman’s
character in a foreign land. He thinks he can act as he pleases,
regarding the poor unenlightened Chinese around him as mere brute
beasts, without sense or understanding, never dreaming for a moment
that he ought to be called to account.

Some of the natives do not submit so patiently as others, but give vent
to their passion in their own language, of which, as I never learnt
even a syllable, I could make nothing, but no doubt it was more angry
than sentimental.

Many of the Chinamen pride themselves on their English, and make a
display of it as often as they get an opportunity. “Chin-chin, Jack,
how you do? All litee?” “Yes, I’m all right. How do you get on?” “Oh!
me all ploper; me number one. When your ship go away? she makee stop
long timee. By-by, makee go Ingland; you see your fatha and motha;
you no come Shanghai again. Other ship go Pekin makee bobbery; you
sailor-man makee fight.”

Another May came, and found us still at anchor: not bright and hot
as last year; but so dull that one might think the blooming goddess
had taken cold. This heightened our impatience to be gone. I had read
the Astronomer-Royal’s _Lectures_ and my other books over and over
again, till I knew them pretty well by heart. Still, it was not always
possible to avoid feeling discontented. How we argued and disputed one
with another, and most vehemently about the things that we did not
understand, especially politics. Many of the letters which I wrote
home contained a question for settlement; and sometimes the answer did
settle it. Once there was a debate as to whether the English language
owned the word recalcitrant; and three months later I got a letter
which decided the question for us in the affirmative, and gave us the
meaning of the word. Then again I had a treat. A small parcel from
home. Dr. Anderson, of the hospital ship at Hong-Kong, had brought it
from England and sent it on.

Then we heard rumour of a cruise to the northward, and all hands
brightened up at the thought of a change of seeing new scenery and
people. Something to do and something fresh to look at would keep the
devil at bay, which is an important matter in a ship, where his majesty
finds so many liege subjects. Meanwhile, it was a relief to be allowed
to go on shore. Ten of us could go every night, and there was general
leave twice a month. I liked rambling by myself into the country, and
looking at the people and their ways; sometimes asking for a drink of
water at a cottage, and making friends with the youngsters. One little
fellow became so confiding as to sit and crow on my shoulder. From what
I saw I envied the cottagers neither their dwellings nor occupation.

From country scenes and shady nooks, what can be a greater contrast
than the one I am now diving into? Fancy to yourself a lower-deck
mess-table!--time, a quarter to eight bells in the forenoon--presently
is heard the bugle playing up cheerily _The Roast Beef of Old England_,
and aft to the galley rush the hands whose turn it is to do duty as
cooks to draw the day’s allowance of meat.

It is drawn and on the table, and my messmates sit round, and are soon
busily engaged in criticising. No matter for dirty hands or tangled
hair: it doesn’t do to be particular on board ship. “What won’t poison
will fatten,” is a sea proverb. “Well,” says Bill, nicknamed the Calf,
“if that’s dinner, God send supper! Here’s for a smoke;” and off he
goes. Presently, Joe, who has eaten his share, gets up, and, after
belching rudely in his neighbour’s face, exclaims, “I’d like to have
Mr. Somerset, or whatever they call him, just to taste this here meat;
I’m blest if it wouldn’t make him stare! Beef, they call it; I’m glad
they’ve found a name for it. It beats the tea, so called. I s’pose the
Admiralty gets the pair of ’em cut out by the law of economy, don’t
they?” “Bother the odds,” says lively Tom Jenkins; “it’ll all fill up.”

At other times the conversation indulges in a roving commission, and
takes in politics; the relations between England and America being a
favourite topic. Let us listen to Rowin and Jemmy King, great talkers
both, who go at it hammer and tongs, as the saying is.

“Well, look here!” says Rowin. “Give me the Yankee navy ’fore this
one. The officers there are gentlemen, and a fellow don’t get his luff
choked when he begins to speak. They do act upright and down straight,
anyhow!”

“Yes,” answers Jemmy, “and a fellow gets a sight better grub and better
pay, too, and he don’t get no three-water grog. But look here! this is
what pauls me. Why don’t we lend the Yankee gov’ment a hand if they
want it, or why don’t we allow them to help us?”

“Why, I’ll tell ye, Jemmy. S’pose we was to have an alliance with the
Yankees, and we was to help ’em, they’d want to have a king, and our
people don’t want ’em to. That’s why they won’t let the Yankees help
us.”

“But you don’t believe that yarn, do you, Rowin?” says Harry B., a
sensible, well-read fellow. “If you told that to a horse in the stable
he’d kick yer brains out.”

“Oh, you might know a good deal,” retorts Jemmy, “but ye don’t know
everything.”

The First Lord and the grub, however, are the chief occasions of
displeasure, and the noble functionary might, perhaps, not feel so
comfortable as he does if he heard what seamen think of him. “He First
Lord! Why, he never seen the sea. About as much fit for First Lord as I
am for Prime Minister. Why, I’d make a better man nor him out of chawed
bread.”

I offer the following remarks with all due respect; but when a seaman
gets bad provisions he has a right to grumble against the one who, as
he imagines, is responsible for the quality. Seamen, who live hard
and work hard, ought to have good grub; but navy food does not always
come up to that standard. We don’t say the allowance is not enough: it
is not the quantity, but the quality which ought to be more studied.
One of the articles of war is to this effect: “That if any fault be
found with the food, the same shall be quietly and respectfully made
known to the officer of the watch, who shall report the same to his
superior, and the said superior shall presently cause such steps to
be taken as shall remedy the defect.” But this is not strictly acted
up to. Some officers, after looking at the faulty article, which is
perhaps an eight-pound lump of salt meat, looking similar to a lump of
mahogany, will tell you blandly “he sees no fault in it; very nice
meat--very nice indeed; shouldn’t wish to eat better himself;” while
his countenance belies his words, and he wishes he couldn’t smell. The
bread is generally good, but is liable, after long keeping, to decay,
when weevils and maggots bore and re-bore it at their pleasure. “Very
nice eating, this, Jack. How about the duke, eh?” “The dook! I’d like
to choke him with it.” Sailors are awful grumblers, but they like fair
play, nevertheless.

But to go back to my log. One night it was very sultry, scarcely a
breath of air stirring, and profoundly quiet, save the rush of the
rippling tide against the bows, when our captain came off to the ship
and gave the order for night quarters. The well-known roll, _Cheer
up, my lads_, very soon roused us out. We jumped from our hammocks,
and didn’t wait to dress: a pair of trousers was quite enough. Up we
went, cast loose the guns, loaded with blank cartridge, and waited for
further orders. “You’ll fire a broadside! Ready! Fire!” and all the
guns went off as one. Oh! what a hubbub there was among the junks and
craft on the river; the Chinamen seemed beside themselves. The next
order was, “Three rounds of quick firing!” and at it we went bang!
bang! bang! till the very place seemed to shake, and the concussion
broke many a window-pane. By-and-by, when it was nearly over, and we
were securing the guns again, one or two of the gentlemen came from the
shore, wanting to know what was the matter. “Had the rebels attacked
us?” “Oh no, gentlemen!” said the first-luff; “we are only obeying
Admiralty instructions;” at which the inquirers seemed much relieved.
The whole performance, from the time the broadside was fired till the
guns were secured, and we again in our hammocks, did not occupy more
than twenty minutes. So much for being ready for night quarters.

In the night of the 17th, about the middle of the first watch, we
were again aroused by a great outcry. A large Yankee merchantman, in
drifting down, got foul of us athwart hawse, and her great weight,
with the strength of the sluicing tide, made us drag our anchors, and
away we drifted up the harbour, smashing and fouling all the craft in
our way. One little brig was just in our line of drift, and we could
not help laughing at her captain, who sung out to ours, “Never mind,
sir! you can’t get any farther. My cable will hold the pair of ye.” No
sooner had the words passed his lips than the tiny cable parted, and he
was involved in the general smash. We were now all four in a heap, and
went drifting up ‘fluking.’ Just then our skipper hailed Jonathan, and
asked him if he hadn’t better send down the sky-sail masts and yards.
“Well, cap’n,” answered the Yankee, “they’ve been up there ever since
she were launched, and I guess they’ll stop there till they’re blowed
down.”

At last the steam-tug, being lashed alongside, drove the merchantman’s
bows ashore, and brought all of us up. We got our steam up, and
gradually backed astern out of the mob, slipping both cables, and
losing our jib, flying-jib-boom, and both lower booms; and with about
eight feet of our quarter-bulwarks stove in. I shall not easily forget
that night, shivering as I was with only my flannel and a pair of light
trousers on. Next morning we went and picked our anchors up, and a
heavy job we had of it. Jonathan refused to pay all the damages, so our
captain prosecuted him on behalf of the Admiralty; and I believe that
that night’s work cost the boaster something like two thousand dollars.




CHAPTER IX.

 Anticipations of Work--The _Powhattan’s_ Salute--Sail for the
    Peiho--Excitement on Board--Arrival of Mr. Bruce--Interview
    with the Chinese Commandant--We embark--Advance to the Taku
    Forts--Attempt to blow up the Barrier--What old Archie
    said--Gun-boats under Way--A Jam--Well done, _Opossum_--The saucy
    _Plover_--We join the _Starling_--Aground hard and fast--The Fight
    begins--Dodging the Cannon-balls--Well done, _Cormorant_!--Smart
    Work--We pull to the Admiral--Death at my Elbow--At it again--Lie
    down, Men!--Unlucky Teapot--The Landing-party--We pull to the
    Shore--Death in the Mud--Hit by a Shot--The Wounded Officer--Death
    in the Rushes--The Don’t-care Feeling--The Retreat--Light-balls--A
    terrible Trudge--Don’t care again--A narrow Escape--A Sip of
    Life--The Boats at last--Sleepers in the Gun-boat.


We heard on the 5th June that the _Inflexible_ would take our place,
while we sailed on a cruise to the northward. The news was good news
for us, because we thought there would be something to do besides
cruising. The awkward dispute between the English and Chinese
authorities had been talked about for some time, and we thought our
admiral was not the man to stand any nonsense.

On Friday, the 10th, we steamed from Shanghai. It was a miserable
morning, the rain pouring down in torrents; but we were on the move,
and going to see something fresh, and perhaps take part in a brush with
the Long-tails. As we passed the United States steamer _Powhattan_,
anchored at Woosung, her band struck up _God save the Queen_, and she
dipped her ensign. We were not slow in returning the compliment, and
in a few minutes the strains of _Hail, Columbia_! were wafted from our
poop towards the Yankee. We touched at Pecheli and got our letters
from the flag-ship, and sailed with the rest of the squadron to our
appointed anchorage, within sight of the mouth of the Peiho, and of
the Taku Forts; they being about eight miles and a half distant. The
anchorage is wild and gloomy, the waves being of a heavy leaden colour,
and no land visible on account of its extreme lowness. When it comes on
to blow hard, steamers ‘bank fires,’ and stand by to slip and put to
sea.

We were all ready prepared, with our knapsacks, water-bottles, and so
on; and it would be hard to conceive the excitement and talk which the
probable attack caused among us. Visions of imperial gold and satin
passed before our eyes; and never was any subject discussed as we
discussed Pekin and the emperor.

On the 21st, Mr. Bruce arrived, and immediately proceeded to the
mouth of the river, with Admiral Hope and the French captain. As
afterwards appeared, they had a talk with the commandant of the forts,
who informed them that he had been ordered by his superiors to allow
no vessel of any nation to pass up that way; and further, that there
was another place, about three leagues from this, where the emperor
wished Mr. Bruce should ascend to Pekin, and that his Celestial Majesty
had prepared every convenience to facilitate the progress of the
second English ambassador to the court of China. The admiral and his
colleagues, however, mistrusting the commandant’s statements, gave him
to understand that they wouldn’t stand any nonsense.

What the upshot was everybody knows. As for the Highflyers, we rubbed
our hands when we heard that the passage was to be forced whether or
not.

On the 24th, the admiral having determined to wait no longer,
and having given his instructions over-night, we, that is the
landing-party, embarked in our boats, towed by the different gun-boats
attached to each ship, and following the admiral in line of seniority.
One of the gun-boats carried the French blue-jackets, and the American
hired steamer _Toeywan_ came on in our wake. We steamed up to within
three-quarters of a mile of the forts, and lay-to, awaiting further
orders, and looking curiously at the greasy mud before the forts,
the tide having run down. Meanwhile, the admiral steamed round and
reconnoitred the points of attack; and soon after we had orders to
put the marines on board some junks, which had been seized the day
previously for their quarters.

We lay idle all that day, and at night slept on board the gun-boat
_Banterer_. During the night, a party from different ships, in two
whitewashed cutters, and with muffled oars, made an attempt to blow up
the barriers which the Chinese had constructed across the river; but it
did not succeed, and they were fired on from the forts, and obliged to
retire.

The morning of the 25th dawned brightly and summer-like, and so calm
that not a ripple stirred the water. At seven o’clock we had breakfast,
laughing and joking the while. Old Archie “know’d they wouldn’t fight,
and we’d have our suppers inside them forts;” and so, indeed, many of
us thought. The meal over, most of the blue-jackets were distributed to
the different gun-boats, to man and fight the bow-guns.

Meantime, the admiral had advanced in the _Plover_, astern of the
_Opossum_, whose instructions were to find a passage through the
barrier stakes, or, if not, to pull them up by main force. Following
the _Plover_ came the _Cormorant_, _Lee_, _Nimrod_, _Banterer_,
_Kestrel_, and _Starling_. But in advancing, as the water shoaled, they
ran aground and foul of one another; or, as an old salt said, “the
admiral was regularly jammed.” We were now, I should say, about nine
hundred yards from the forts, and in shoal water.

So the morning went by, and we were still in suspense, when the word
was passed for dinner. While we ate ours most of the fouled craft
cleared themselves and got afloat. The forts remained quite silent
all the time; not a soul could we see moving, and but few guns and
embrasures were visible, owing, as we afterwards learned, to the
Chinese having masked them.

Dinner was no sooner over than, as may be imagined, all eyes were
anxiously turned upon the leading boat, _Opossum_: we could plainly
see her drive stem on, and carry away the chain; and afterwards haul
up several of the stakes and steam right inside. The _Plover_, bearing
the admiral’s flag, followed her closely, and just as she was half-way
through, down went the mask from the embrasures; whiz--rush--roar--came
the shot, and the action commenced.

At this time the admiral was standing, a conspicuous mark, upon the
top of the gun-boat’s galley; and as he was a tall man he was plainly
seen by both parties, more especially as he had on white duck trousers.
But many of us noticed what we thought a blunder in the arrangements,
namely, that all the gun-boats were not able to engage the enemy,
owing to their having been placed in wrong positions, where they would
do more mischief to friend than foe; but the shoal water was a great
excuse for this.

It was now about a quarter-past two in the afternoon. A score of
Highflyers, I amongst them, had been shortly before sent to the
_Starling_, and placed under the orders of Captain Villiers, to assist
in fighting the pivot-gun, she being short-handed; but, unfortunately,
in manœuvring to get a good position, she ran aground, and though
we made every effort to get her off, such as jumping her stern till
we were tired, rolling the shot, and transporting the pivot-gun, she
would not stir. Captain G. O. Willes, who acted as aide-de-camp to the
admiral (if I may be allowed the term), happening just then to pass in
his gig, and seeing our critical and comparatively helpless position,
sent two gun-boats to our assistance, and he himself superintended
their operations; but the _Starling_ resisted all efforts, and still
stuck hard and fast. So Captain Willes, after courteously thanking the
lieutenants of the two boats, told our skipper he must do his best; in
pursuance of which advice he ordered us all, rather ingloriously as we
thought, down into the boats lying alongside, in order to be out of
the way of the enemy’s shot. The position of the vessel was such that
there was no possibility of bringing the guns to bear on the forts;
consequently we could be of no use on deck, which was, I suppose,
the captain’s reason for taking care of us. He, however, and the
second-master stuck to the deck. We sat quiet for about ten minutes,
when, growing impatient to see what was going on, I scrambled up to
the deck, and was soon followed by others. Presently a sudden jet of
smoke, followed by the hollow rushing sound of the shot, proclaimed
the intention of the Chinese to keep on fighting, and the probability
of a smart engagement. And then they went to work in earnest, and sent
a storm of shot from their batteries, doing fearful execution among
the gun-boats; whereupon, seeing that the enemy meant mischief, the
crews blazed away at the forts, as if they enjoyed the deadly game of
long bowls. Now and then a shot struck the _Starling_ in her helpless
condition, and it was somewhat laughable to see how we--British
blue-jackets--ducked when a ball chanced to whistle close over us.
However, this paying of respect to the swift iron bullets saved many a
life that day.

I can hardly tell how I felt; for after the firing began such a state
of excitement possessed me that I could scarcely contain my feelings,
and I caught myself several times singing out and clapping my hands,
keeping my eyes all the while rivetted on the forts. With what a burst
of savage joy did I see the enemy’s walls shattered by our shot, and
“Well done, _Cormorant_!” “Bravo, _Lee_!” “Pretty firing!” were cries
in which my emotions found vent. Others exclaimed, “It can’t last
long, the Chinee rascals won’t stand to their guns long. Smart work.”
But they did stand, as shot after shot testified, tearing away our
bulwarks and splintering spars, scattering death on all sides, or
sullenly plunging beneath the water-line of the vessel. So it went on;
furious uproar--frightful crashing--smoke--groans--and death; neither
side showing the least signs of giving in.

After a time we were ordered out of the boats, to do what we could
with small arms, and at it we went, using our muskets with hearty good
will. But the distance was too great, and the smoke too thick for nice
firing. I kept on firing with the others till my musket became so hot
I was forced to cry “spell, ho!” In the midst of our attack, a shot
came ricocheting towards us, making ducks and drakes, as we used to
say at school; splashing the mud with great force in our faces, till
thump--crash--it buried itself in the _Starling’s_ side.

Then a signal went up from the admiral for more assistance, and our
party was ordered into the boat. Just as we shoved off, I turned to
look at the _Starling_, and saw a big shot strike the pivot-gun, knock
away the trunnion, overturn the carriage, scatter the splinters all
around, and finally lodge between the gun and the carriage, where
it remained firmly wedged. “By George, Bill!” said I to one of my
messmates, “that’s smart work!” “Yes, John,” answered he, “and you
mightn’t never see such another go-in like this.”

The _Opossum_ was now flag vessel, the admiral having shifted from
the _Plover_: while we were pulling towards her, the shot struck the
water ahead, astern, and even alongside of us, but never once hit us.
On getting alongside, the first thing which took my attention was the
gallant admiral, badly wounded, sitting on the gunwale, looking very
pale, and bleeding from a wound in the thigh; yet refusing to go below
or have it attended to. He sat watching the firing, and giving orders
with unabated spirit.

I tailed on, as did the rest, to the pivot-gun, and we fired away
briskly with very good effect. And so did the enemy for the matter of
that. A sapper who stood next to me was cut in two, and fell at my
feet. Then and at such-like times it was that I felt more fearful than
before. So long as I was not close to the wounded, or one who fell
killed, I kept my courage, and could do my share of duty at the gun;
but it made me wince to see the man whose shoulder rubbed mine picked
off so suddenly. However, it was for this I had gone through my drill
in the old _Illustrious_, and now or never we had to put our lessons in
practice.

After a while _Opossum_ hauled out of range, giving us time to
fetch breath; and then in we steamed again closer than before, and
directly in front of the forts, as though we intended going stem on,
in which position we could only fire the bow-gun with effect. We of
the pivot-gun, thus having no immediate work to do, stood watching
the firing, when aft came Captain Willes, and cried out, “For God’s
sake, men, lie down! You are too valuable to be shot now. Besides, we
can’t go twenty-two thousand miles every day for men like you.” We of
course obeyed, and while lying at ease we heard many a ball strike
the vessel’s side. One shot came through the quarter, and passed out
at the opposite side, touching no one, but breaking in its passage a
little earthenware teapot, filled with brandy-and-water, belonging to
the lieutenant. By-and-by he came aft to quench his thirst and wash
the powder out of his throat, but on seeing the smash, he dolefully
exclaimed, “I would like to know who broke my little teapot? I didn’t
care for the liquor--the taker was welcome to that--but he might have
left me the pot.” Suddenly turning to me, who stood nearest, he asked,
“Do you know anything about the pot?” “Yes, sir; a shot came through
the quarter and broke it.” “Oh! is that it? I thought by your grinning
you did it.”

We all had a good laugh at him, of course, being by this time once more
on our legs, having got up one by one. It is so hard to lie still where
fighting is going on.

Now the firing from the forts all but ceased, and our people thought
we should make an easy capture. But, alas! for human judgment,
never were chiefs more mistaken; it was only a trick on the part of
the Long-tails, as we afterwards found out to our great cost and
mortification. However, judging from the enemy’s silence, the admiral
decided on landing a party to take the forts by assault. A certain
captain, who had taken a look at the muddy shore, came back and
reported a practicable landing-place. If he had tried it himself,
instead of only looking at it, he would perhaps have sung a different
tune; at least, we all thought so.

The _Toeywan_ generously towed up to the forts the ships’ boats, full
of marines and blue-jackets; the order was conveyed to the French at
the same time; and shoving off from the different gun-boats, with ready
accoutrements and smiling faces, our men gave three hearty cheers and
pulled for the shore.

_Opossum_ had meantime steamed down to the junks for another load of
marines, and when we got up to the forts again, some of the marines
and blue-jackets had already landed. So, as one of our boats came
alongside, I jumped into her with the rest of our party, carrying our
muskets, full water-bottles, empty havresacs, and sixty rounds of
ammunition in our pouches. I sat in the stern-sheets of the boat, and
as we were pulling in shore, one of our party said to me, “Hurrah!
John, the forts are a-fire!” “Can’t be,” says I; “they were as black as
ever ten minutes ago!” It was the setting sun, which, throwing out the
forts in strong relief, and shining through loophole and embrasure, had
produced the appearance which deceived my mate.

No sooner did the Chinese see our boats approaching than they opened
a tremendous fire from every available position, tearing up the boats
and killing many a brave fellow before we could land. Thus was our
hilarity turned into rage, pain, and disappointment, by the want of
good judgment, as we thought, somewhere. The nearer we came to the
landing-place, the nastier it looked. However, as soon as our boat
touched the ground we jumped out, and found ourselves up to the waist
in water and slime; and, what was worse, our ammunition was rendered
useless by the soaking it got. Some poor fellows lost their footing,
and went down so deep into the mud that they were drowned by the jump
from the boat. Others seemed petrified, and crouched into the very
bottom of the boats, so terrible appeared the iron storm that we had to
face.

We were under the charge of an old petty-officer. He was addressing
an order to one of our party, when a shot struck him, and he fell
dead. We moved on: might as well advance as to stand there to be
killed, especially as the forts were pouring on us a murderous fire of
grape-shot and all other conceivable missiles. The sight was sickening
to see so many falling around, and yet no one able to stretch out a
helping hand to save. All at once I felt a sudden numbness in my head,
and my cap was knocked off. I instinctively put up my hand, but felt no
blood, and fortunately kept my footing. My impression was that I had
been accidentally hit by a Frenchman behind me who was firing at the
forts. Dreadful was our struggle through that greasy mud. At length
we reached the outermost trench, where one-half of our number, having
spoiled their ammunition, could not molest the enemy; so we halted
under cover, looking on, and wishing the Chinese, the forts, and the
officer who selected the landing-place, at the devil: anywhere but in
the place they happened to be.

I fired my musket once after landing, and then, in consequence of my
plunge and many falls, which choked the barrel, I could only stand by,
ready for whatever turned up.

Presently we made a push for the inner trench; but had not gone very
far when I saw an officer lying half-buried in the mud, which was by
this time pretty well sprinkled with dead and dying. I went to his
assistance, and found he was wounded in the throat, or I fancied so,
and managed, in spite of balls and bullets, to drag him down to the
water’s edge, and place him in the bottom of a boat.

I once more trudged along in order to regain the mass of seamen and
marines who were struggling gallantly onwards, returning but a feeble
fire to the storm from the walls. I came on the way to a small patch of
rushes, and pretty firm ground: how blessed did it seem to one’s feet,
although sodden! While I stayed here a little to get breath, three or
four blue-jackets and marines approached, one of whom came by my side
and halted, as I had done, to recover breath. I turned to ask him for a
drink from his water-bottle, when a shot struck him in the heart: “Get
you out of it,” he said to me, and fell dead. Another, while advancing
to speak to me, was cut in halves by a ball, and I felt his blood
bespatter me.

And now again that fierce don’t-care feeling came over me. I sprang
up, and tore across the open space, from the rushy patch to the second
trench which was lined with our men; shaking my musket in impotent
defiance, as it were, against the yelling Chinese, who now swarmed
at intervals upon the battlements. The trench was full of water, but
I ran recklessly in, and swam, and waded to the opposite side; still
clutching my musket. Then I sank; but felt some one grip hold of me by
the collar of my frock, and haul me into soundings; at the same time
a shipmate’s familiar voice said, “Nearly gone that time, John! Stand
on that big stone, you won’t be out of your depth.” On looking round,
I found my preserver to be “Snarley-yow,” so called, and that I was
standing close to Captain Shadwell, our own captain, who, though up to
his armpits in water, kept up his spirits wonderfully, and now and then
spoke a word of encouragement to the men, who in their turn gave a
hearty reply.

Darkness was now approaching; and although the work of slaughter was
still going on, and men were falling fast around, an attempt was made
to raise the scaling-ladders to the embrasures; but their supporters
were killed; and after other but ineffectual attempts, Colonel Lemon
thought it prudent for us to retreat. By that time the short twilight
was over, and darkness had set in, to our great relief; but the
enemy threw out light-balls to discover our position, at the same
time endeavouring to rake us from the northernmost battery. These
light-balls were annoying in two ways: they burnt one fearfully, and
had an oppressive and horrible smell; and after every instalment of
these things, a heavy discharge of arrows, ginjalls, and big guns, sped
many a good fellow of our side to his last account.

At length, by general consent, the retreat was sounded, and in a mass
of confusion we scrambled out of the trench, and had the mortification
of doing that which few Englishmen like to do--namely, turn our backs
upon the enemy.

No sooner did the Chinese see us begin the retreat, than they raised
such a succession of fearful yells, as I shall never forget; the sky
above was black, the water we were in was black, and the very Chinese
on the battlements above seemed like black devils, as they uttered yell
after yell, at the same time sending after us a withering fire.

I cannot say how long we were in the trench; but I remember that the
water rose, or perhaps I sank deeper, and I grew more and more benumbed
by my immersion. I would have given anything then for a good drink.
However, I made my way back with the rest, but could hardly drag myself
along from exhaustion, much less lend a helping hand to those who
were wounded. Painfully and slowly we struggled on, but pretty much
together, through the mud and darkness to the water’s edge. Now and
then an iron shower would hurtle round, or a solitary iron messenger
scream over our heads, or strike the water close to us, bespattering us
still more with mud.

But at times worse befel; some poor fellow would sink with exhaustion,
or fall dead struck by the enemy’s shot. Oh! those infernal forts. The
mud too was full of dead bodies, over which it seemed so horrible to
keep tumbling.

Most of the men waded out to their necks or armpits in water, and then
ensued a weary anxious waiting for boats, and we kept shouting till we
were forced to be silent from hoarseness.

By this time I was tottering sadly, so throwing my havresac,
water-bottle, and musket from me, I leaned against some stakes, and a
grim stupor came over me. I didn’t care if they did make a sally from
the forts; I wasn’t afraid to be shot; I wished I had perished in the
first of the fight. These fearful thoughts came into my head; I felt it
was wicked to think so, but I could not help it.

After a while I was recalled to my senses by a shot striking, and
scattering into splinters, the stake next to me. I started, and trudged
along towards some dim forms in the distance, ducking profoundly as I
heard the shot coming in my direction.

I turned once to look at the forts, when a smart twinge in the thigh
caused me to stagger and roll in the mud, and gave me to understand
something had hit me. I suppose it was a spent ginjall ball. Not
heeding this warning, I turned again to the forts, when, just opposite,
and in a line with me as it appeared, I saw the flash of a gun and
heard the iron fiend hissing towards me. It was a moment of agony.
I stooped, and so low that my face was under water, when a sullen
splash about two yards behind me, assured me that for the present I was
spared. If ever any one felt thankful for an escape, I did then; and I
never recal that incident without an earnest feeling of gratitude to
the Almighty for His merciful interposition.

Some one--a marine officer--now approached me, and asked if I were
wounded. Upon my replying in the negative, but that I was so cold I
shook like a leaf, he gave me a sup from his flask, and taking my
hand he almost forced me along; but I scarcely needed help then; that
mouthful of spirit had revived me, and I felt something like myself
again.

When, after what was to us an anxious weary delay, the boats came, they
began taking in men indiscriminately, and the poor fellows were so
eager to get away that there was much overcrowding. This was presently
stopped; some boats only took in a certain few, and in many cases where
an officer wouldn’t take more than his number, the worn-out men were
beaten off, or a pistol was pointed at their heads.

The French boats were the only disinterested ones; they took anybody,
and crammed as full as they could. Many a poor fellow while anxiously
waiting for a boat would suddenly, worn out with fatigue, throw up his
arms wildly, sink under, and be no more seen.

For some time I did not endeavour to get a boat, but watched others
being taken away; at last, when nearly all were gone, I saw a boat
approaching, hailed it, and was taken in; and after a pull well in
shore to look out for more wounded or stragglers, was rowed away from
that fatal mud-flat, and put on board our own gun-boat the _Banterer_.
On getting aboard I threw myself down just as I was, wet clothes and
all, by the warm funnel, and soon slept the deep sleep of fatigue and
exhaustion. Few of us cared whether to-morrow’s sun rose upon us dead
or living. Not one of us had tasted food since noon. It was six in
the evening when we landed, and two in the morning of the 26th before
the last of the survivors were brought off from the mud; no wonder,
therefore, that the combined effect of hunger, toil, disgrace and
disaster produced such a feeling of utter indifference and dejection.
But for that nip of brandy from the marine officer’s flask, I, too,
might have given in before the rescue came.




CHAPTER X.

 The _Banterer’s_ Deck--An ugly Sight--Sad Thoughts--Saying their
    Say--Jack’s Opinion of the Admiral--The Killed and Wounded--What
    they killed each other for--The Forts again--Battering the
    _Banterer_--Long Tom--Woe to the _Nimrod_--The last Shot--Spare the
    Dead--In we go again--Chinaman’s Triumph--Night Work--The British
    Flag and Sam Collinson--Snarling Forts--Burning the _Plover_--The
    Admiral’s Thanks and Jack’s Growl--We return to Shanghai--Sham
    Sympathisers.


Shortly after sunrise I awoke and looked vaguely around me, but soon
remembered all that had taken place, and rose and got a drink of
water. What a scene presented itself! Many a one at home in England,
I thought, might have learnt a useful lesson could he have seen the
sight. Lying in groups round the deck were the seamen and marines,
bedaubed with mud; their hair all tangled; some shoeless, some without
caps; few had retained their belts, and all looked miserable even in
sleep. And to match the heap of men, there lay in ugly confusion broken
muskets, spoiled and wasted ammunition, belts, pouches, cutlasses, and
all the disheartening signs of a retreat; while from below came the
groans of the wounded, and in many cases dying.

Turning away from this painful scene, I leant over the gunwale of the
vessel watching the turbid stream, and many and sad were the thoughts
that passed through my mind. Above was the bright blue sky; not far
away the sparkling waves of the gulf; all nature around was for the
moment quiet and peaceful; in man the storm alone raged. He, amid
all God’s creation, strove to make his littleness great by spreading
bloodshed, desolation, and sorrow around.

When I turned again to look inboard, many of the men were up and
talking of the past night, its terrible incidents, narrow escapes, and
wondering what the upshot would be.

A general opinion was that the guns were fought by more than Chinamen;
some asserted that they had seen Europeans dressed, and in their
shirt-sleeves, walking from embrasure to embrasure; encouraging the
Chinese to fight, and laying the guns; moreover, they had heard the
word of command, and somebody sing out “More powder, Jack, for the
English rascals.” If ’twasn’t renegade Russians who said this, who was
it? “I don’t care who says there wasn’t, but I’m certain the Long-tails
didn’t have all to do with the fighting!” says Curtis. “You’re right,
too, Tom,” responded young Inwood; “and they played a good game with
us, anyhow!” “They tell me the admiral’s going to have another slap at
’em as soon as the gun-boats is patched up a bit,” says old Fielding.
“I don’t so much care if he does!” “Well, strike me lucky, he’d ought
to be shot if he do. Ain’t there enough killed already?” “Well, let it
be as ’twill, mandarins don’t wear white shirts and bob-tailed coats;
and they don’t talk nohow like Russians,” rejoins another. The admiral
was strongly blamed for having made too sure of taking the forts; but
all hands acknowledged that he was all right in the matter of courage,
and putting on a good face; and pluck is so admirable a quality in the
eyes of English seamen, that had our party had to try the admiral, they
would have acquitted him with three cheers. Did we not hear afterwards
that though wounded dangerously in two places he would not allow
himself to be removed, but ordered the men in his boat to pull him to
the vessel nearest the forts. There were two or three, however, who
thought the account of killed and wounded would be laid to his charge.

The crew of our ship, the _Highflyer_, suffered severely, having
twenty-eight killed and wounded. I could hardly realise that the
same men with whom I had eaten and drunk the day before, were now
stiffened corpses in the mud of the Peiho. Many a bronzed and stolid
face did I see bedewed with tears of real sorrow for the loss of some
friendly messmate or shipmate: nothing hypocritical about it, but
real, downright, heartfelt grief. And when after a while we heard the
report--four hundred and sixty-four in all killed and wounded--how it
rang in our ears, and how sickened we felt when the muster was called!
And all this fearful scene and havoc was because John Bull wouldn’t go
round to the Imperial Tea-merchant’s back-door.

As the day advanced most of us got a wash and a shift of clothing from
our knapsacks which had been left on board the gun-boat in the lockers,
and something to eat; the last being particularly acceptable after our
long fast and hard work. We had not finished breakfast when the forts
began giving us a few shots from their long-ranger which was mounted on
the south battery; but they nearly all fell short, striking the water
ahead of us. We could see by our glasses that _Yellow Jacket_ was very
busy inside, patching up breaches, and remounting and replacing guns,
as if in anticipation of another attack. By-and-by, however, the shots
came too close to be pleasant; one struck us on the bow, making an ugly
hole, and causing all who were sitting forward to jump up very suddenly
to see whatever was the matter. Not relishing this, the _Banterer_
shifted her berth farther out of range of their mischievous Long Tom:
a lengthy brass gun, which always when fired gave out a clear ringing
sound like a bell.

The _Nimrod_ also shifted, and just as she was turning ahead to steam
out, a savage ball came screaming and hissing through the air, all
of us watching where it would pitch, not thinking it would reach the
shipping, when crash--it burst through the _Nimrod’s_ waist, and we
knew by the piercing shriek which immediately followed, that it had
done mischief. And so it had, for three were killed and seven wounded.

This was the Chinaman’s last harmful shot: fearfully and fatally had it
told.

The enemy, taking courage from our shifting, came out on the mud in
front of the forts, and were soon busily engaged picking up all the
arms and equipments which had been dropped in the retreat, or thrown
away for self-preservation. A rich harvest they must have made of it.
But not content with the plunder, they must needs abuse the lifeless
bodies of our shipmates. We couldn’t stand that, so our vessel and
the _Janus_ hove up anchor, steamed right up under the batteries, and
sent a bouquet of three or four ten-inch shell amongst the mob of
plunderers; to which they replied by a spirited discharge of ginjalls.
The forts presently took up their cause; whereupon we had recourse to
our muskets, and blazed away for about a quarter of an hour, till the
Chinese, being tired or frightened, fled to their cover. Then away
we steamed again out of range, the forts sending one or two harmless
shots after us. Then parties came and made prizes of some of our boats,
which, having been abandoned, had drifted in under the batteries;
and with evident triumph they rowed away towards the river, shouting
derisively.

So passed the 26th. When night came, Captain Willes, taking a boat’s
crew from the different vessels, went to try and recover some stores
from the sunken despatch-boat _Cormorant_, and the two gun-boats
_Lee_ and _Plover_. This enterprise was repeated for several nights
afterwards. One night they got up steam in the _Cormorant_, but after
the engines had turned once they stopped, and never moved afterwards;
so the engines were smashed, to make sure that she should not prove any
great catch to the Celestials, for, besides her damaged machinery, she
had been hit by forty-seven shot between wind and water.

After this the Chinese came to see what they could grab from the
unlucky vessel. One of the things they took was the ensign which had
been nailed to the _Cormorant’s_ main, to make them believe she was not
abandoned; and we saw them present it to some fellow with a feather in
his cap, perhaps the commandant of the forts, or Sangkolinsin himself,
whom our men called “Sam Collinson,” declaring that he was a marine who
had deserted from one of our ships and joined the enemy. The flag was
received by this worthy very graciously, and they had it hoisted on the
fort out of bravado.

Night was the favourite time with those snarlers for firing, and we
used to sit and watch them, although what they wasted their powder
and ball for was a mystery to our side: it could not be to harm us,
for we were out of range entirely. Probably they did it to let us see
they were quite ready for us at any time we should be condescending
enough to oblige them. One of their nightly jobs was to set fire to
the _Plover_. At first she burned but slowly, and was smouldering all
next day; but in the evening she blazed up high and fiercely, and it
appeared as though she were engaged, when her shells exploded one by
one. The glare of the burning vessel lighted up the forts, and we could
see the battlements swarming with soldiers, who evidently enjoyed the
spectacle. Gradually the boat burnt down to the water’s edge; flickered
up fitfully for a moment; and then all was again darkness.

After remaining before the forts till the 4th of July, we returned with
the gun-boats to the fleet, and right glad was I to get on board my own
ship again. We could not be jolly, however, for we had lost shipmates,
and our captain was badly wounded in the foot.

Shortly after this a letter of thanks from the admiral was read to us
from the quarter-deck. The gallant chief deplored the failure of the
attack; it had not, he said, pleased Almighty God to grant us the
blessing of success, yet neither he nor our country would think any the
worse of us on that account; and he wound up with an expression of his
hearty thanks.

Well! all this was very gratifying, although to some a guinea to spend
in drink and dissipation would have been far more preferable. “Oh, hang
the letter of thanks! what good ’ll that do a fellow! What say you,
Charlie?” “Why, I hope the old ’un ’ll be superseded in the command.
He an admiral! why my big sister u’d make a sight better one than he!”
“Well now, look here,” says Tommy, “you’re all talking about what you
can’t eat. I say the admiral acted well as far as ever he knowed how!
Yes! and I’m blessed if any man could ever have set his people a better
example than he did! I say make him red at the main: ’tain’t no more
nor he ought to have!” But these opinions were not delivered without
a good sprinkling of naval interjections. The fleet in China swore as
roundly as ever the army did in Flanders.

The _Highflyer_ sailed from the Gulf on the 10th of July, and arrived
without any incident of importance, and after a sixteen days’ run,
at Shanghai. As soon as we dropped anchor our ship was besieged by
newsmongers, all eager to hear about the Peiho, and very eager to
condole with such as had been wounded; but not practically; the
theoretical way suited them best. I set them down as belonging to the
sounding brass and tinkling cymbals sort.




CHAPTER XI.

 Disturbance in the City--Armed Patrol--The Club-house--A luxurious
    Breakfast--A Word for Growlers--Another Disturbance--Drifting
    and Howling--Down in the Dust--A Buster of Coffee--An Attack
    of Ophthalmia--Good News--Hey! for Japan--Vladimir Bay--Grand
    Scenery--A Fishing Party--Merry Hauling--An unstiffened
    Lieutenant--Fine Salmon--Toad-fish--Slime-dabs--Native Fishermen--A
    fine Place for Robinson Crusoe--Off Nagasaki--A beautiful Coast--A
    charming Harbour--At Anchor.


On the 3rd of August we had a long and hard day’s work on board our
ship, and at night, instead of rest, we had to go ashore armed, as
there was a disturbance among the Chinese, provoked by attempts at
kidnapping; and they had been ill-using Europeans, and trying to
confine them in their houses. We patrolled the streets till one
o’clock, and met with no disturber more formidable than gaunt,
houseless dogs or a terrified cat, and then returned to head-quarters,
the Shanghai Club-house, where we lay down for the remainder of the
night, keeping sentries at the inner and outer gates. For artillery
we had one field-piece, placed in the court-yard. At bugle call in
the morning we turned out; soon had a good wash, getting water from a
spring in the yard, and ere long our breakfast arrived from the ship,
brought by the boys and a few men, who had been left on board. We ate
it with good appetite, seated in groups in the grassy quadrangle,
sheltered from the sun by the high walls and surrounding buildings.
Soft bread with cocoa for sailors! Certain good folks at home would
hardly credit it. I fancy some might even say it was a breach of
discipline. Biscuit is quite good enough for sailors; but let these
good folks remember that without sailors they could not stay at home
comfortably and growl. Breakfast over we patrolled again, but all
appeared quiet; so we were ordered back to the ship to clean ourselves
and get dinner.

We went ashore again about two o’clock, and passed in our march the
French guard, who saluted us, several of them running out to shake
hands with us, in the fulness of their good feeling. We had not been
in the club-house half an hour, when a messenger came running in with
word that the Chinese had made an attempt to fire the French consul’s
house, and stop the passage of the bridge over the river. We were soon
on the spot, although with the thermometer at 98°, and a scorching
sun, marching the streets was no joke. But arrived at the scene of
anticipated contest we found no sign of rioters, neither was the house
on fire; so that we not only got a false report, but a hot tramp into
the bargain; and, to complete the matter, through some stupid blunder
on the part of certain authorities, we missed all the ale which the
consul sent out for us.

The same night we went on board, but had scarcely settled ourselves to
sleep before we had to go ashore again. The merchant ships above us,
in a sudden panic, were hailing frantically, “Men-of-war, there! The
junks are drifting down upon us!” The Chinese in the city at this time
were making a fearful noise, howling and firing guns; but how the junks
could be drifting down with a five-knot current running up, was rather
an amusing mystery; but imagination in such cases works wonders.

We were soon landed and marched up the Bund to the eastern end of the
settlement, near to the city gates; we here formed in close line,
loaded our muskets with ball-cartridge, capped, and waited for further
orders; the hubbub in the city still continuing. However, as nobody
appeared to receive our charges, we stood easy, and after a time, the
city getting quiet, the officer in command gave the order to “Ground
arms, but no straggling.” “Well, here’s for a doze,” said one; “So
says I,” cried another; and before long most of us lay down in the
thick dust on the roadway or on the bridge, and soon slept, fatigued
with the day’s duty. Nothing further occurred during the night; the
sentries went off and on, and the sleepers were not disturbed. In the
morning before going aboard we breakfasted at the expense of a wealthy
Englishman, who supplied coffee and pic-nic biscuits in abundance. Most
of the men went in for a “buster of coffee,” as they said; but even
sailors can be satisfied, and we left plenty of fragments.

After our return on board, we were nearly all afflicted with
ophthalmia. I was blind for three days, but happily became soon
convalescent.

Often had we talked about Japan, how we should like to go there; so
when orders actually came for us to take a cruize in that quarter we at
first thought the news too good to be true. But it was true, and on
the 17th of August we left Shanghai for the Gulf of Tartary.

“Gulf of Tartar is that the place we’re going to? Shall we find when we
get there we’ve caught a Tartar?” said old Jem.

“No, Jem; but we might get a small dose of cream of tartar,” answered
his messmate, intending to be witty.

The first night we anchored at King-Tang, in order to despatch letters
to the flag-ship lying there. On the 23rd we passed the Powshan
Islands, a very bold and lofty group, and on the 25th came in sight
of Vladimir Bay; then got up steam to weather the point, which runs
out into the gulf, and this once doubled, a beautiful scene appeared
in view. Around us rose lofty hills clad in sombre green, divided by
well-wooded and deep-shelving valleys, and fine inland plains. The
shore presented in some parts a very bold front, rising precipitous,
in others assuming an aspect of grandeur, where some of the bluffs,
having the appearance of ancient ruins, frowned in grim blackness on
the restless waves below. As we steamed in and the bay gradually opened
we descried the mast-heads of the _Actæon_ and _Dove_ surveying vessels
above a low, far-projecting spit of land.

Vladimir Bay is capacious, receding into deep, sheltered bights
in the land, forming picturesque little creeks, and nice smooth
landing-places. What a treat it was to take in water from a pure and
limpid spring, that bubbled up in a grassy hollow, besprinkled with
flowers and backed by fine trees. Though not more than three yards from
the sea, the water was delicious.

On the opposite shore flowed a stream large enough for a boat to pull
into. Here we had two nights’ fishing. The last of these excursions
surpassed our most sanguine expectations, and our success kept us
in good humour. We shoved off from the ship about 4 P.M. with all
necessary tackle, and, pulling away to the head of the bay, near a
little fresh-water creek, hove-to, and cast the line; then, throwing
off our upper garments, overboard we went, and commenced to haul the
net in shore, laughing and joking as now and then one of our party
chanced to stumble and went head over into the clear water. Our first
lieutenant, who had charge of the party, entered heartily into the
spirit of the thing, and laughed and joked with us, dropping for the
time his usual stiff manner.

By-and-by we drew the net to land, and discovered plenty of fine fish
entangled in the meshes--fourteen or fifteen fine salmon, and more than
enough of rock cod. But there yet remained one corner of the net to be
emptied of the struggling captives; so out we shook them. No sooner
were they out of their element than they showed their nature, swelling
up tremendously, and exuding quantities of slime, by which we knew they
were toad-fish, not good to eat, being poisonous. “Don’t care about
them,” said old George Davis, who acted as ganger; “them fish eats dead
bodies, and they’ll run at a naked hook for the fun of the thing.” We
cast again and again, with various fortune, one of our hauls consisting
of nothing but these toad-fish--“slime-dabs,” as some of our party
called them--till darkness came on; then, kindling a fire upon the
beach, and lighting a lantern in the bow of the boat, we continued our
exciting pastime. Presently the stars kept us company, the water began
to feel cool, and the night breeze chilly; and as the boat showed a
good take, and we all felt uncommonly peckish, we returned to the ship:
and so ended my first fishing excursion. What a jolly breakfast we had
next morning!

Some fishermen came into the bay the day after our arrival. They were
dressed much after the fashion of other Chinese, but were more simple
and rude in their manners, at the same time having an honest and candid
expression of countenance rare among the Celestials, which gave one a
favourable opinion of them at first sight. They readily bartered away
some fine bearskins, asking in exchange only a few yards of seamen’s
blue cloth.

Vladimir Bay is very secluded, abounds in fish, is a fair anchorage,
and the neighbouring woods shelter plenty of game. Many of our fellows
said, “Blest if they wouldn’t like to be shoved ashore there. A fine
place, and no mistake.”

We left it on the 6th of September, with a fair ten-knot breeze. On the
12th we arrived off Nagasaki, and saw a more beautiful line of coast
than any I had ever set eyes on. We were under steam, and as we glided
along close under the high land the views we got were charming. The
coast is very bold in most parts; in others gentle hills rise from the
sandy and pebbly beach, covered with thick underwood and fine trees,
and so dense as to seem almost impenetrable.

The entrance to the harbour is long and narrow, shut in by overhanging
hills, teeming with the richest vegetation, in which occasional
openings show peeps of cultivated country, and the dim blue of hills
in the distance. While passing an island at the entrance we saw many
guns mounted, and, as we steamed farther on gun after gun appeared
perched up among the woody heights, where a lover of the picturesque
would not think of looking for them. Still advancing, we discovered a
pretty little bay where stood a cluster of fishing-huts; or a little
dell would appear nestling under the mountain, and dotted with pretty
little cottages--real Japanese cottages. This was the Japan we had
longed to behold. We could see their inmates, looking out eagerly upon
the wonderful fireship as she slowly steamed on to her anchorage in
the inner harbour; a beautiful bay, shut in by quiet hills, with the
straggling and picturesque town of Nagasaki at their base.

And thus, at last, had the wish of most of us been realised! and we
gazed upon the scenery of a Japanese landscape, and our anchor was
firmly hooked in Japanese holding-ground.




CHAPTER XII.

 My first Walk in Japan--A Paradise after China--Clean
    Streets--Clean Houses--Hard Beds--Policemen--A Temple--Queer
    Worship--Chanting and Drumming--The exhorting Gong--English much
    goodee--Kanagawa--Hospitable Population--The Baths and Dress--On
    Shore at Yeddo--The Tycoon’s Palace--Water-Nymphs--Sandalled
    Horses--Bakers--Cheap Fare and Fruit--Hakodadi--Stoned
    Roofs--Fish caught by Noise--Huckster Boats--Custom-house
    Officers--The Governor’s Visit--The State Barge--A Party for the
    Burial-ground--The Sacred Fire--The ancient Fireman--Pack-horses--A
    grateful Kiss--Flagstaff and Salute.


If I looked eagerly and inquisitively about me upon first going ashore
in China, much more so did I on my first walk in Japan. The large
number of well-dressed people wearing swords were the first things
that attracted my attention. These, I understood, were gentlemen. They
appeared very clean--a pleasing contrast to the Chinese; and they did
not wear talons instead of nails. The streets of Nagasaki are not
paved, neither is there any attempt at gutters or drains or spouts for
the house-roofs. But the people do at least keep their houses clean,
and, not being in the habit of throwing all refuse and dirt out at
their front doors, the streets are clean and passable also--quite a
paradise after a Chinese town; as some of our crew said, “’Twas like
going into heaven” after China.

I liked the appearance of their houses, which seemed to me to be mostly
built of wood, two stories in height. Suppose we have a look at the
inside. There is a small space of earth, perfectly smooth and flat,
just within the doorway; beyond this the floor is raised and boarded,
and covered with grass mats, very clean, and, as Bob Brady said once,
“white as a hound’s tooth; he wouldn’t mind having his dinner off of
’em.” To reach this raised portion you must take off your shoes. No
decoration beyond a few simple carvings, so far as I saw, adorned the
rooms. The beds are raised above the floor, and are covered with mats,
which serve for mattress or bed. Hard lying is, perhaps, no hardship at
Nagasaki.

Instead of glass for the windows, a beautiful kind of paper is used,
which admits a subdued and mellow light, and is less liable than glass
to be fractured by earthquakes. Their shops are open, and very similar
to those of the Chinese; but I thought the shopkeepers seemed very
obliging, and that they did not exhibit such anxiety and desire for
money as do their less estimable neighbours the Chinese. I saw many
policemen in the streets, whose staff of office is a long rod, with
three iron rings on the top, which jangle together as they walk along.
The people seemed to be very much frightened at them. I fancy it is a
rare thing among them to hear of a lark with the “shiners,” as Jack
called the policemen.

One day I passed close to a large and gaudily decorated temple: inside
it was finely ornamented with devices, carvings, and richly-worked
hangings; in the centre of the floor, and under a showy silk canopy,
stood the god they worship--gigantic in height, big-faced, goggle-eyed,
and with a stomach decidedly corpulent. In one hand he held a large
club, and in the other a quiver of arrows, which he, no doubt,
was prepared to hurl at those “as didn’t choose to make fools of
themselves,” whispered Charley Cane to me. A little to the right, and
near the door, hung a bunch of low-toned, musical, tinkling bells,
which worshippers shook as they entered, to attract, as we thought,
the god’s attention. Then they fell upon their knees, and commenced a
monotonous chant, which was kept up about ten minutes; the priest, with
shaven crown, long black robe, and sandalled feet, walking meanwhile
round the edifice, bearing a stick of incense in his hand, as if to
make the petitioners’ prayers acceptable. A little boy in attendance
on the priest kept time to the low chant with a small drum, which,
nevertheless, made a great noise. The walls inside and outside were
covered with inscriptions in native characters, resembling somewhat
those of the Chinese. In nooks and corners of the court-yard were
figures of the god set back in little stone niches; and I saw various
offerings, such as flowers, trinkets, and money, strewed on the
ground before these dwarfish effigies. When the priest thinks the god
is impatient, and stands in need of homage, he strikes a loud and
melodiously-sounding gong, to call worshippers to a sense of their
short-comings.

I do not think that the Japanese have been at all rightly represented
as to their coolness and reserve towards strangers; for when we dropped
anchor in the harbour many boats, with two-sworded gentlemen in them,
came about the ship, inquiring in broken English who we were; and as
soon as we said “English,” they were very pleased, and exclaimed,
“English much goodee--very goodee English!” From which I infer that
although such a short time has elapsed since England was admitted to
intercourse with them, a favourable impression has yet been made. On
shore, also, it appeared to me that Englishmen had the precedence, and
are looked on with far more respect than others. I heard, also, that
among the Imperial family a good feeling for the English predominates.

On September 14th we steamed out of Nagasaki harbour, having on board
the English Consul for Hakodadi. Nothing of note occurred during
the run, till our arrival and anchorage in Kanagawa Bay, Strait of
Yedo. In our route up the Strait the scenery was pleasant; but the
characteristics before noticed prevail--hills and hollows, bluffs and
cliffs, forest and field, and tall pinnacled crags, which shoot up into
the depth of blue sky, like solitary watchers of these wave-washed
shores. Between these we got pleasant glimpses of fertile country and
little scattered hamlets. Kanagawa Bay suddenly opens from the Strait,
revealing the town, seated on a pretty wooded hollow, at the foot of
a range of bold hills, with the lofty snow-capped summit of Fusyama
towering up into the clouds.

The town is small, the houses are built of wood, the streets are clean
and wide, but not paved; shops are numerous, with a good supply of
native goods. The people here were very hospitable and friendly, making
signs to us to enter their houses; in fact, their looks seemed to say,
“Come in and sit down;” and they appeared hurt at a refusal. We were
not slow to avail ourselves of this hospitality; some would say, “Come
on, chaps, let’s go in here and have a feed on the cheap!”

I looked one day into the public baths and saw there the people of both
sexes bathing away very merrily together, and apparently without the
slightest sense of indecorum.

The dress of the working men is very simple; it consists of a white
cotton wrapper passing between the legs and secured behind, leaving the
chest, legs, and arms entirely bare and free for work. The dress of the
women is more becoming to their sex: they wear loose silk trousers,
blue generally, or white cotton, and a graceful and flowing robe above
of the same material, which reaches to the knee. The married women
have black teeth, and all of them have comely features and persons, and
fair skins. Not moony; or, as some of our crew said, “as if they’d had
a dingbat across the bows with a deal board like the Chinese.”

On the 22nd we lifted our anchor and steamed fifteen miles farther up
the Strait, and anchored about six miles from the city of Yeddo; the
shallowness of the water preventing our getting nearer. However, as our
boats were going to and fro every day, I luckily had the opportunity
to go on shore, and saw something of the famous capital of Japan. It
stands upon a very fertile eminence overlooking the Strait and the
surrounding country, which is flat and well cultivated.

The houses, as in other places, are low, and mostly built of wood;
the streets are very long, tolerably well paved with rough stone,
and exceedingly clean; and, as it appears, sanitary matters are not
forgotten. The Tycoon, as the Emperor is called, has a very fine
palace. I only saw it at a distance. I should have liked a peep at the
Hall of Audience, which has golden pillars, and three towers, each nine
stories high, plated with gold.

I noticed the same indifference as to appearance or sense of
impropriety here as at Kanagawa. While rowing to shore one morning
early, we saw upon the beach a crowd of both sexes bathing, most of
them stark naked and frolicking in the water. They appeared in no way
disconcerted by the arrival of our boats; in fact, some of these nymphs
swam after us; but as we pulled with a will, they soon gave up the
chase. Old Dan, our coxswain, said, “Fine gals, them; shouldn’t mind
one like them for my wife; not afraid of the water.” It was well for
the damsels they did not understand other remarks that were made upon
them.

I did not observe any horses in Nagasaki, but in Yeddo I saw plenty: a
small, spirited little breed. They are shod with a kind of sandal tied
to their feet by thongs. In driving no whip is used, but a word or a
nod from the driver seems quite sufficient to make the brisk little
creatures put out their speed.

Here also I noticed a difference in the dress of the men: the
scantiness which struck me in other places does not prevail in Yeddo
to the same extent; the upper class wear loose flowing breeches, and
an elegant silk wrapper fastened in front by a fanciful pin, and with
loose and ample sleeves. Sandals are worn fastened to the feet by neat
leathern thongs. I saw in some of the shops beautiful specimens of
these sandals exposed for sale, mostly in the lacquer-ware shops, not
laid out for show, but placed on shelves around the walls. It would
not do, however, to stand looking into shops on a rainy day, for with
spoutless houses, gutterless streets, and no raised footways, a fellow
might stand a chance of being washed away.

The bakers place their bread on a kind of sloping board at their door,
and cakes and gingerbread are kept in little tins and boxes; but
the great bulk of the trade appears to be done by out-door dealers
with baskets and stalls, who sell oftentimes a better thing than the
shopkeepers. I saw no flowers in the houses, nor singing-birds in cages.

Here and at Kanagawa everything is very cheap: we could get eight
loaves of bread, each about the size of a twopenny one at home, for
half an itzeboe, a couple of ten-pound salmon for an itzeboe, sugar,
twelve pounds for two itzeboes, a couple of fat plump fowls for half
an itzeboe, and I dare say other things, such as clothing, paper, and
the like, although I never bought any, are in proportion. A basket of
beautiful grapes, such rich, luscious, black, thumping berries, that
their very look is tempting, can be bought for an itzeboe, or tenpence.

We left Yeddo on the 9th of October, taking with us the Consul and
his family for Hakodadi, and the Consul-General from Yeddo; and after
calling in at Kanagawa for fresh beef, bore away to the northward, with
a fair wind and sparkling sea. The distance from Yeddo to Hakodadi is
about three hundred and fifty miles.

The entrance to Hakodadi from the Strait of Sangar is narrow, overhung
by high, gloomy-looking hills, frequently shrouded in mists, which,
rolling away from their sides, obscures the entrance of the harbour.
But, these passed, the harbour opens to view, girdled on two sides by
high land, and at the inner extremity by low flats, beyond which we got
a glimpse of the blue ocean, and a stretch of flat country scenery.

The town extends itself upon the right-hand going in, on the rise of
a bluff and wooded hill, which extends far in the rear of the town,
covered with patches of fir and heath about half way up. The houses
are, as usual, of wood, but more strongly built, and less like shanties
than in other towns; the roofs are loaded with enormous stones, and
smaller stones fill the intervening spaces, a precaution against the
violent gales which sweep this part of the coast with tremendous fury.
The streets are broad, but in wretched condition; hence in wet weather
the mud is distressing.

In the early morning the harbour presents a curious spectacle, numerous
fishing-boats pulling away to their daily toil, and the strange chant
of the crews as their oars rise and fall, is borne not unmelodiously
upon the breeze. They use a curious practice to entice the fish to
their nets; pulling out well into the bay, where they know the fish
resort, they strike with staves a sounding-board in the boat, which
gives out a peculiar hollow sound. The finny community flock towards
the place of the sound, and are of course caught.

The huckster-boats, also laden with provisions, row out from the shore
and come alongside, their occupants seeming ready to welcome the
stranger. In most of these boats there sat a Dutchman who did all the
selling, or at least took the money, and saw that the seamen did not
try to ‘do’ the Japanese; but many of the men used to go down and come
back with fish, bread, or grapes, all on the ‘cheap,’ having been too
smart for the boatmen to detect them.

Soon after our arrival, which seemed to excite much surprise, the ship
was frequented by two-sworded custom-house officers, each well dressed,
and with a peculiar mark on his back to indicate his profession.
Though very polite they were also very inquisitive about our guns,
their number and capabilities, and seemed greatly astonished when we
fired one for their amusement.

Our having the British Consul on board for this port brought us
an unusual number of visitors, among whom came his Excellency the
Governor, who was mightily pleased with our ship, and the attentions
he received. The questions which he asked on different subjects showed
great intelligence and ability; and, as we understood, his tendencies
in common with those of many of his countrymen lean towards the English.

His Excellency was dressed in the simplest style of Japanese fashion:
loose silk trousers, and a fine flowered silk mantle without sleeves,
and fitting like a cloak. He carried one sword, and was bareheaded. His
hands looked as if he were not unused to work for himself, although he
was a governor. Our men all said of him, “What a fine man!”

We thought his state-barge a model of Japanese boat-building; in shape
it was like a Venetian gondola, with cabin richly decorated, and was
emblazoned with the illustrious man’s arms, while on the roof were
displayed silken banners, and emblems of his authority. There were
numerous rowers, who sat on finely carved and polished benches, which
were covered with well padded and showy-looking cushions.

Going ashore one day with a funeral party from our own ship, one
of the men having suddenly died, and arriving at the burial-ground
for Europeans, upon the top of a wooded and pleasant hill, whence a
splendid prospect of the bay and surrounding country is obtained, we
came upon an old Japanese man, who was very busy attending to two large
fires, from which a disagreeable odour arose.

On coming nearer, prompted by curiosity, we halted, full of remarks one
to another upon the evident pleasure with which the ancient fellow kept
the fire going, and some of our party, with “Here’s for a draw,” took
the opportunity to light their pipes at the, as we afterwards learned,
sacred fire. One of our officers looking on and hearing our conjectures
on the subject, told us that it was the custom of the higher class of
Japanese to burn their dead, collect the ashes, and bury them enclosed
in an urn.

No wonder there was a bad smell; the venerable was burning a corpse,
and we noticed how carefully he picked out the small bones, and laid
them aside on a cloth, and fanned the ashes from them with the broad
brim of his straw hat. While looking at him I thought he might not
inaptly have been likened to the old toll-man of Styx who once punted
across the souls of mortals. Our party now held their noses, and some
said, “Wouldn’t be in his shoes and do that if they’d pay me for it.”
The custom among the lower orders, on the occurrence of a death, is to
dress the body carefully in clean white linen, and bury it in a sitting
position.

The graves of the noble and rich are, as is the case often in other
countries, in some instances beautifully built. At times a miniature
temple is erected over the grave, in which the survivors may offer up
prayers for the soul of the departed. After the prayers, offerings of
freshly-gathered flowers, coins, and perfumes are deposited. These
appear never to be taken away, so sacred are they esteemed. Many of the
offerings which we saw withered and weather-stained had doubtless lain
undisturbed on the tomb for years.

So far as I could observe, a Japanese funeral, instead of being a scene
of mournful instruction, is one of great gaiety and dissipation. The
procession is quite a gaudy affair; banners and flags of many kinds
displaying inscriptions, some with native green dragons, and the figure
of a deity, the latter surrounded by a haze, and looking anything but
benevolent, are borne by men wearing their ordinary dress, for it does
not appear to be the custom to exhibit mourning by a change of dress.
Behind these the body is borne by a number of bearers, according to
the rank of the deceased, covered by a gaudily worked pall, either of
velvet or silk; and relatives, and the idle and gaping public, bring up
the rear. There is but little appearance of sorrow, and less silence;
and when they come to the grave they place offerings on the ground, and
set up a kind of subdued howl, and soon after hurry away.

Whether the same practice prevails in other places is more than I can
tell; but such was the scene I witnessed at Hakodadi.

I saw also that for riding and conveyance there were, as at the South,
numbers of little horses, and the streets are quite lively with strings
of them, loaded with vegetables and other things, which are thus
brought from the interior of the country. Many of the drivers of these
ponies are pretty native girls, and I once caught a refractory pony
and held it for its mistress, and I was repaid by a smacking kiss, and
a grateful look from her dark eyes; nevertheless, I was not captivated
by her, nor did I forget a certain little somebody else far away.

One of our duties here was to rig and plant a flagstaff for the Consul
in front of his house, on a fine slope overlooking the bay. We made
a natty job of it, and when finished, up went the Union Jack; and
the thunder and smoke of a salute of twenty-one guns from H.M.S.
_Highflyer_ announced to the Hakodadians the important fact that a
British Consul had taken up his residence among them.




CHAPTER XIII.

 Departure from Hakodadi--The _Highflyer_ aground--Kanagawa
    again--Japanese Diet and Junks--Rowing anyhow--Domestic
    Life--Hatred of Chinamen--What the Highflyers
    thought--Departure--Touch at Shanghai--Hong-Kong: a
    Disappointment--Growling with a Cause--Our Captain goes
    Home--Up to Whampoa--Our new Captain--A Dab-down--The Mud
    Dock Builders--Study under Difficulties--Messmates and
    Crossmates--The Admiral’s Visit--My Messmates--A Run on French
    Island--Cotton-cleaning--Warlike Preparations--Scenes on Shore.


We left Hakodadi on the 26th, and in due time arrived in the Strait
of Yeddo, and as it fell calm, got up steam, and we glided along
pleasantly through the water, till nearly six bells in the first
watch, when, going but slowly at the time, we struck upon a hard sandy
shoal, and, despite all our exertions, couldn’t get off till the
middle of next day. Happily the ship sustained but trifling damage,
and soon after we again were at anchor in the Bay of Kanagawa. As
this was the last time we anchored in Japanese waters, I will add a
few remarks about what the people eat before saying good-bye to them.
Their food, so far as I could see, is chiefly vegetable; but there is a
considerable consumption of fowls, and the various courses are served
up at table in very small dishes, on waiters of the native lacquered
ware. Great propriety is observed during the meals, each course having
its clean plates, and so forth.

Among the exports are vast quantities of potatoes, equal to those of
European growth; and another important article is the japanned ware;
and a certain kind of vegetable tallow, beautifully clean, white, and
hard.

As by a law of the empire trading voyages to foreign countries are not
permitted, the Japanese junks are built only for coasting voyages.
Their construction is such that they could not stand in a sea-way,
being perfectly flat-bottomed, high at the bow and stern, with a hollow
running up into the centre of the vessel, just like the paper boats
we used to make at school. They are rigged with a large sail of thin
cotton cloth, fitted to a single stout spar in the centre of the deck.
The stern is comfortably fitted up with cabins and eating-rooms, all
perfectly clean. The midship part of the junk is for cargo. The cables
are made of coir, and the anchors of a dark heavy material not unlike
iron-wood.

Their row-boats are of good build, having bow and stem alike, with a
keel also after the fashion of Europeans. Japanese rowers, however,
do not pull together, but one after the other--“the same as they came
into the world,” said one of our gruff Highflyers, as he stood watching
their movements.

The Japanese women enjoy a far greater amount of freedom and happiness
than do those of the Chinese. In their conduct to their children they
seem very loving and gentle. I never saw among them the porter-like
practice of carrying their children in sacks behind their backs; but
groups of parents may be seen playing with their little ones outside
the door, in the calm evenings, with evident pleasure, the husband
sitting by on the stone bench, smoking his pipe, and calmly enjoying
the happiness of his family.

Another marked characteristic with the Japanese is their hatred of the
Chinamen. This arises possibly from the expeditions which the latter
have several times sent against the Japanese with the intention of
making them pay tribute and yield obedience to the Brother of the Sun
and Moon; but the Japanese, like bricks as they were, proudly refused,
and gave the Celestials some severe thrashings, so that they got at
last satisfied; and in the spirit of “You are best man--I’ve done,”
the Chinese begged to be allowed to trade to the port of Nagasaki
once a year with two junks. This was granted, and to the present time
the junks are sent for their yearly cargo. To sum up, I may say the
Japanese are far less bad-smelling, far more polite than the Chinaman,
besides being quite as learned, and twice as ingenious. We thought them
preferable in all respects. One does meet with fair and upright dealing
in Japan, but it ought never to be depended upon in China, where the
trader’s main object is to cheat and mislead. Most of us were very
much pleased at having had a chance of seeing Japan, and some of our
grumblers said, “’Twas a fizzing country--they’d like to live there.”
At all events, the change from the sickly Shanghai River, the fresh
scenery, strange people, and Japanese breezes, had wonderfully improved
the health of all hands.

On the 10th of November we said farewell to this interesting and still
partially mysterious country, of which I, for one, would gladly have
seen more. Ten days later we touched at Shanghai to say good-bye,
and take in old Government stores, and then, having steamed down to
Woosung, we took advantage of a favourable breeze and made all sail,
heading away for Hong-Kong, most of us in good spirits, and all of us
thinking that when we arrived there we should get orders for home. We
had heard, moreover, that we were likely to be sent to Singapore. But
all our hopes were cruelly dispelled, for we had not been many hours in
Hong-Kong when word was brought that, after refitting, we were to go up
that Canton River again. Here was a disappointment! The very thought
made us gloomy and savage; and all hands foresaw a very discontented
ship. Why were we not ordered home? We had been exposed to risk and
danger for three years--quite long enough for a spell. Why, of all
others, should we be selected for that blessed Canton River? Thus we
grumbled and growled like so many bears.

Our growling, however, did not make me forget to go to the
hospital-ship _Melville_ and thank Dr. Anderson for bringing the
parcel. He received me very kindly, placed a bottle of beer before
me, and allowed me to talk to him for nearly two hours. It was such a
pleasure to inquire about my friends in England--for he had seen them
since I had--and to hear his remarks about many things that were new
to me. It made up in some degree for our disappointment. At length he
rose, shook my hand, and said he must go and look after his patients,
among whom he always found plenty of occupation.

The weather at this time was remarkably fine, so much so that on
Christmas Day we had service on the upper-deck in the open air. How
different I fancied it was at home. There frost and snow and snug
firesides could be found, and holly branches with red berries bedecking
the churches, and mistletoe hanging from many a ceiling, under
which----But to return.

January 1st, 1860.--Under this date I find written in my log-book:
“Captain Shadwell gives up charge to-day, and goes to England by the
next mail. May he have a pleasant passage home; soon get the better of
his wound, and live to command many another gallant ship with honour
and distinction!”

January 18th, at daylight, we left for Whampoa to go into dock.
Unfortunately, in our passage up the river, and when a mile or so
beyond the Bogue, our port boiler sprung a leak, or, as some clever
newspaper correspondent had it, “burst.” We wished it had, for then we
should have had to go home whether or not. The accident compelled us
to steam the rest of the distance with only one boiler.

On arrival at Whampoa the next morning, we hauled immediately alongside
the wharf, under the shears, and commenced clearing the afterpart of
the vessel, and had two days of very hard work before she was light
enough to enter the dock. The tides being highest at night, we went in
after dark; and the next morning saw us properly shored up, and the
steam-engines busy pumping the dock dry. The same day our new captain
joined the ship, and he was no sooner on board than all hands had to
appear aft, where we saw our chief standing on the quarter-deck--a
little man, in striking contrast to the tall and portly gentleman who
had left us. After taking a look at us, he read his commission hastily
and indistinctly, making a three minutes’ job of it; then, folding up
the document, he said sharply, and in a squeaking nasal tone, “Pipe
down!” and set an example of obedience by immediately diving below.
Well, here was something for us to talk about, which would help us
to get over a day or two of our wearisome anchorage; and of course
we canvassed our new master pretty freely. We soon found out that,
although in the main a man of few words, he could swear pretty freely
when the fit took him. Most of the old hands called him “four foot of
trash.”

I had frequently heard a great talk of Whampoa, and had passed it
at a distance, yet I never expected to see it close, still less to
dock there; but as I am here, and likely to be so for the next twelve
months, I commit to paper, or, as Jack Lee said to me, “dab down” what
I think of it.

The river, as you approach it, is crowded with small craft of all
sorts, plying about continually to and from the shipping, which here
muster pretty strongly, all waiting for that indispensable commodity,
tea.

Whampoa New Town (the city is a mile farther inland) is a confused mass
of houses, partly on the north and partly on the south bank of the
stream, and looks as though, at some time far back, there had happened
a shower of houses, falling some in bunches of twos and threes, others
quite isolated; then a grand jumble of stone, wood, bricks, and mortar.
It puzzled me at times to make out how the people could live there.

The country for a mile or so within sight of the river is for the most
part flat and well wooded and cultivated; farther inland it assumes
a bolder character, rising into partially wooded hills, down which
torrents rush with lively noise; and amid these hills are villages
secluded in the valleys and embosomed in trees. Far away to the
north-east are dimly seen the heights of Canton, and look which way you
will, there is the ever present feature of a Chinese landscape--water.

But this little sketch would not be complete if I were to omit some
mention of the docks, which are so useful to shipping in Chinese waters.

A few years ago there arrived at Whampoa an energetic English artisan
and his son; they had a small capital, so they bought some land close
to the water, and dug and built docks lined with wood, commonly called
mud-docks; large enough, however, to hold a good-sized ship. By-and-by,
shipping frequenting the docks, they built more, till still further
requirements forced upon them the necessity of a stone dock; but before
the elder Cowper could properly make his plans, the disturbances in his
neighbourhood nipped the project for a time, and before another chance
occurred, he was treacherously seized from on board his own chop, and
was strangled at Canton by order of Yeh. The son, however, inherited
his father’s energy; and now there is a range of good docks: two
entirely of stone.

Near Whampoa, and up one of the numerous creeks, is a lonely circular
tomb among the hills, where, as tradition has it, lies buried the great
Kwang, a sober citizen and sometime governor, or Tauti of Whampoa, but
who, for his partiality to Europeans, was beheaded. To this time in the
neighbourhood his name is mentioned with great respect.

I told my messmates this story once: “Well, I’m blowed,” says Jemmy
King, “he was a fool and no mistake; didn’t know when he was well off,
he didn’t!”

Truly reading and writing on board ship are done under trying
difficulties. On all sides, and fore-and-aft, men are singing and
talking, card-playing, fighting, and even drinking; for in spite of
the strict and severe rules against the smuggling of liquor into the
ship, men _will_ and _do_ do it, heedless of consequences. Or perhaps
in the mess next your own they are keeping up a chum’s birthday. Before
them on the table is a large kettle of rum, or brandy-flip; the glass
is passed repeatedly round, till the liquor beginning to take effect,
they commence singing, dancing, and quarrelling, which often leads to
fighting: in such cases the results are, the liquor is capsized, the
combatants look nasty at one another, and knock each other about to
them utmost, till the master-at-arms, attracted by the noise, comes to
the scene of conflict, collars the chief actors, and marches them on
the quarter-deck, where the first-luff, making but short work of it,
orders them in irons. They are taken below to the cockpit to repent in
darkness, and left to their own reflections, which cannot be of the
pleasantest kind, for if they be reported to the captain he makes no
hesitation in talking of four dozen.

Such scenes are not uncommon even in a well-disciplined ship, but of
course they bring their own punishment, and the leaders of them are
never treated with any kind of confidence.

March 16th.--We were inspected by Admiral Hope, who told us of his
entire satisfaction. I admired the appearance of the brave chief. He
is tall and well built, with an open and commanding countenance, and
bright blue eyes that seem to pierce right through one; some of our men
said, “he’d got a eye like a hawk,” and that there were “no two ways
about _him_.” We were very glad to see the Admiral recovered from his
terrible wounds, for after doing what he did at Peiho the men could
not but admire and respect him. But there were some who thought Sir
Michael Seymour the better man of the two.

Well, now let me introduce my messmates; the reader knows one or two
already:

First in order comes the caterer, generally a steady-going
petty-officer, who is considered responsible for the orderly state of
the mess, and any faults committed by his messmates. Harry B. is an
open-hearted, intelligent man, fond of reading, and very well informed;
he is tolerably lenient and impartial in his judgment. He and I often
used to have a romp together.

Then there’s Mikey, a real broth of a boy; good-tempered when sober,
but inclined to liquor, and when so, extremely wild and racketty. He
has read a great deal, and is pretty intelligent and thoughtful; in
fact, quite a step above the common herd. He is greatly incensed at the
abuses which are creeping into the service, and vows when paid off he
will join the Yankees: “something like, their service is!”

J. W. comes next, commonly called West-Country. An old Arctic man--he
has been out with Captain Kellett in two expeditions, searching
for Sir John; he is generally light-hearted and cheerful, full of
curious yarns. For example: “I was once,” said he, “along with a
first-lieutenant, and he was everlasting a-pickin’ his nose; he was
always a-findin’ fault; he’d stop p’raps at the cable-tier, or the
shot-locker, then he’d begin at the nose again: ‘Dirtiest hole in the
ship, master-at-arms! dirtiest hole in the ship!’ How the chaps used to
laugh at him.” He used to say also, that “he was once towed six mile
under water by a whale, and on’y came up once to breathe.” He has, in
common with the rest, one sad failing: whenever he can he gets drunk,
and firmly believes it does him good.

Bill is the next one, a young fellow who has served most of his time in
big ships, and considers small ships to be a bore: “’Cause they ain’t
half manned, and wants the work done big-ship fashion all the same,
little big-ships I call em.” He growls tremendously, and says, “Andrew
won’t catch him in a small craft again; and when his time’s up he’ll
have a slap at the Yankees.”

Young Joe comes before us next, looking dissipated, but has a redeeming
blue eye, and an amiable temper; he is very ignorant of books, but
eagerly listens to folks who know more than he does; is quick and
handy at his work, but knows too much of what is no good to him.

Who next? Quimbo; born in the West Indies, very good-natured and
simple. He has, though, a wicked temper; he also greatly affects the
dandy; hence he is the general butt of the mess. I used to write his
and young Joe’s letters---love-letters and all. They would bring the
paper to me with the request; and then, “You know what to say well
enough; I’m going to have a smoke,” and I was left to concoct the
letters alone; and so great faith had they in me that when I read
it to them they would say, “Oh, that’ll do fizzin’.” In fact, I was
letter-writer for many a shipmate.

The carpenter, or ‘wood-spoiler,’ comes next; a disagreeable fellow,
and to use the men’s favourite expression, “He’s a big eater, and his
shipmates don’t like him.”

I come next--but I trust the reader will be able to describe me without
any further help on my part.

Now for the last and youngest in the mess, Dick, a fine sprightly
little fellow, with a good elementary education, and a fair stock of
common sense; not a bad seaman, and one day will do some good for
himself. So much for portrait sketching.

May-day being intensely hot made us grumble the more at our dreary
anchorage. “Here we must lie,” so runs my log, “till the Admiral
chooses to relieve us. Why can’t we be allowed to go to the north
again, and get satisfaction for last year’s mishap? why is not some
other ship sent up here? Of the three years since we have arrived on
the station, we have spent thirty months swinging at our moorings in
fresh-water, while other ships have had the cream and honey of the
station! ’Tis too bad.”

June 4th.--Our monotony was this day relieved by all hands being
allowed a run ashore on French Island. I enjoyed my ramble much among
the quiet hills which border the swampy paddy-fields. The peasants whom
I met seemed disposed to be friendly, and gave me a hearty chin-chin.
Stopping before one of their rural dwellings, I watched the process of
cleaning cotton. A bow with a light string is held by the carder over a
heap of cotton; pulling down the string with some force under a portion
of the cotton, he suddenly allows the bow to recoil, and the vibration
thus kept up loosens the cotton without destroying the fibre.

Great activity now prevails here in building troop-boats, water-tanks,
and other equipments for the expedition to the northward, of which
we hear rumours now and then: that it is a very large one, well
arranged; that Hong-Kong harbour is not large enough to anchor all the
transports, and Hong-Kong itself is like a military town, there are so
many soldiers there. Many rumours are raised among the Chinese, who say
that the emperor “no likee our make bobbery.”

Where our ship is lying now the stream is narrow, and the vessel swings
close in shore; then it is that we can get a peep at the in-door life
of the Whampoa Celestials. Now a street scene attracts our attention:
a rascally boy has robbed one of the numerous fruit-stalls, the owner
spies him out, and gives chase. I am not the only observer from the
ship; other men see it. “Go it, little ’un!” “Crack on, kinchin!” say
several. “If you ain’t nailed I glories in yer sperrit!” exclaims Jemmy
King. The boy dodges and doubles along the water’s edge, but the man
has the best of it, and nabs the thief just as he is bolting into a
sanpan, and begins thrashing him. “Served ye right,” say one or two
of my companions; “no business to be cotched.” “Give it him, old ’un,
he’ll make a clean job of it next time.” The boy sings out awfully,
after the manner of boys, and this attracts a crowd, and the stall is
secretly lightened by some, so that in administering justice the poor
man suffered injustice.

The ship has swung still farther, and is now opposite to a tidy-looking
wooden house: at the window sit two young native girls, busy with the
‘steel-bar,’ as sailors call the needle; they are looking at some
book, and, judging from their animated chatter, perhaps it was their
pattern-book.

Still swinging, we are opposite the market, with its busy traffic and
its buzz of voices, while in and out of the crowd jostle old men and
little boys with nasty-looking little cakes and mysterious pastry.
Here is now coming along a grave elderly gentleman, with his servant
holding an umbrella over him, to screen his head from the hot sun; a
beggar meets him, and makes a low obeisance, craving charity; the grave
personage looks at him scornfully for a moment, and then impatiently
tosses him a coin, and strides haughtily on his way. “If I was that
beggar I’m hanged if I’d have his money, I’d heave it at him,” said
young Joe, who was looking on, leaning on my shoulder. “If you were
that beggar, Joe,” said I, “you’d do as he does.” “Ah!” he rejoined,
“you won’t live long, John! Have you had some needle-puddin’ to-day?”

Swinging right round to meet the change of tide, the ship nears
the opposite shore, which is marshy and flat, just fit for growing
paddy, being often overflowed by the tide. Here, in a little bight,
hidden partly by reeds and rank grass, lies a putrefying corpse. A
villanous-looking dog, enticed by the smell, comes to have a meal; our
first-luff for pastime shoots at him, but unfortunately misses his
mark, and the animal retreats, and some hands are sent from the ship
to sink the body. The cur comes again next day, but he had better have
stayed away; for the lieutenant is ready, and a well-directed shot from
his musket tumbles the dog over dead among the rushes.




CHAPTER XIV.

 A few Words to Boys who want to go to Sea--Characteristics--Talk
    about Books--Swallowing a Johnson--Sneaking from Church--Seamen’s
    Prayer--Disreputable Officers--The Servants not the Service--Man
    the Ropes--The Lieutenant’s Dog--Craft on the Creeks--The
    Tax-boat--Canoes and Capers--Rambles in Canton--Deities for
    Sale--False Tails--Street Gamblers--A Sing-song--The Temple of Five
    Hundred Gods--The City Wall and Scenes beheld therefrom--French
    Head-quarters--Yeh’s Park--A threatened Flogging--Our Chaplain.


Some of my young readers may now be ready to exclaim, Why! you are only
a fresh-water sailor. There’s nothing in your book about shipwrecks
and terrible storms. Have patience, boys, it is not my fault that the
_Highflyer_ was kept for three years in fresh-water idleness; and
perhaps if we had been wrecked you would not have had this book to
read. I have told you how we visited some wrecks, and of an escape
that we had; and of the hurricane of battle, which was a great deal
more terrible than the hurricane we fell in with on our voyage home, of
which you will have notice by-and-by.

Meanwhile, let me say a few words to young fellows who think they would
like to go to sea. It is not always fine weather there any more than it
is anywhere else; and as for seeing the world, it amounts for the most
part to seeing a surprising quantity of water. Seamen don’t have leave
to go and ramble about every bit of land they touch at. And then, as to
the romance of being a sailor: whatever one who lives on land may think
of the comforts, conveniences, and freedom of a sailor’s life, he will
find himself greatly adrift should he come to prove them in reality.
In fine weather and with favourable breezes, a sailor’s life is jolly
enough, but reverse the scene and how different it becomes! In a gale
and during a dark night-watch, the various duties which Jack has to
perform assume a comfortless, harassing, and dangerous character.

Turned suddenly out of his warm hammock, he is sent aloft to reef
topsails, aft to the wheel, or is at once shoved into the chains to
heave the warning lead. Going below after the watch has expired, he
finds he cannot get his bag to procure dry clothes, and is not allowed
to hang up his wet ones; so, weary and dispirited, he throws himself
into his hammock, only to be roused out again as occasion requires.

And yet, despite all this, Jack does his work cheerfully and manfully,
and amid all his perils would not change his existence for a better
one. He is full of generosity; but the long confinement and restraint
on board ship make him when ashore full to overflowing with joyous
spirits; hence he commits excesses and abuses which in his calmer
moments he would be ashamed of. He must buy everything which takes his
fancy, however useless it may be. After all his money is gone, if he
doesn’t break his leave, he comes aboard and tells his messmates he has
had a slashing cruise; only he would have liked more dollars. Drink
is his realisation of happiness, at least, it is with the generality.
Lucong was to many a beautiful place, and why? Because there they
could go ashore, get plenty of that horrid samshu for a mere nothing,
and when riotous and drunken were just in their element. What to
them was the inviting landscape, the blue hazy hills, or the sweet
unknown plants and flowers, so long as they could obtain that curse of
seamen--grog.

Religion has but little value in Jack’s estimation, the loose oath
or the careless jest is generally upon his lips: he says, himself,
“Religion isn’t for the likes of us who never think about it;” yet they
are susceptible of religious emotion, as I have often seen. I have
generally noticed that if a man be seriously disposed and quiet, the
majority of his shipmates respect him. But sometimes he is tormented;
if he sits down often to read, he must make up his mind to be addressed
thus, as I was sometimes: “Ah, John, them books’ll drive you crazy some
day, and then what will you do?” “Charlie, old fellow, I can’t say that
I agree with you; have not books made some of our greatest men? Do not
authors and poets live on books? For what were books made, to look at
and not to study?” “Oh yes, that’s all very fine talk, but you don’t
think them books’ll do you any good, and that you’re a-going to better
yourself.” “Yes, indeed I do; and if not, why my present study keeps
away the devil, and makes me feel contented.” “Ah,” rejoins the wise
Charlie, “it’s a pity you hadn’t a been a parson, John, the navy ain’t
no place for you.” And I must do the careless ones the justice to say
that they make a show of respect for a shipmate who has made good use
of his time at school. “He has swallowed a Johnson,” they say, or “He’s
got a mortal long headpiece.”

On Sundays their behaviour corresponds with what I have said of
religion; so that the Church-service seemed to me like an ungodly
mockery. The men have to be driven aft almost forcibly, and when aft,
as soon as the service begins, down they go on all fours and shin away
forward to get a basin of tea, or a game at cards, or perhaps it may
be to hear a messmate read a chapter out of some interesting book.
Those who are left behind are pretty attentive, and the singing adds
to the attraction. Ships’ boys and the schoolmaster generally answer
the responses; the rest of the people are at liberty to join in if they
please. I have often thought to myself that the only really earnest and
devout man present was the chaplain. I may be mistaken, but godliness
is a rare article in a man-of-war. There the universal prayer is:

    “From rocks and sands and barren lands,
                    Good Lord deliver us.”

But with all his faults a sailor is a man and a fellow-being. Natural
darkness is not lasting; neither is the moral darkness of all sailors.

There are many officers, too, who, so far as vice and bad habits are
concerned, often outdo the fore-mast man. Some of them come to sea for
honour, as they term it; and after remaining sufficiently long in the
service for his captain and companions to find out he is a fool and a
bore, quits it, as he says, with ‘disgust;’ so that there is a great
deal of truth in the sailor’s adage: “It ain’t the service, that’s well
enough, ’tis them that’s in it.”

We had a clever third-luff, who, upon the ship being caught in a
squall one dark night, sung out frantically, “Man the ropes, men! man
the ropes!” instead of giving orders what to do. This same luff had
a dog, too, an unhappy looking cur, something of a cross, as the men
used to say, between a bull-dog and a window-shutter; nevertheless, he
was attached to the animal. The men knew of his partiality, so in the
night-watches they would lie down to nap in the gangway, taking the
dog with them; the animal being very glad to nestle under their lee
from the cold. This made his master’s heart warm towards the men, and
he would send for a bottle of grog and give them “for being good to
Ponto.” The bottle did not last long among many, and as soon as it was
gone, the wretched Ponto would be saluted with divers kicks and thumps
in the ribs, making him sing out dismally, ‘pen and ink,’ and cut his
lucky; while his master declared they were bad men to hurt “poor dear
Ponto.”

Now after this long yarn we’ll have a look at the river. Our ship is
surrounded by numerous sanpans, which, however, lie off at a respectful
distance, for if they come near their owners get pelted with bits of
the holystone that we scrub our decks with. There they lie, jabbering
to one another, and on the look-out for a chance job, and furnishing us
with something to talk about.

Numerous creeks run away inland from the river, and along these may be
seen, sailing or sculling, large trading junks and smaller craft, their
brown curiously cut sails seeming to glide along the top of the flat
fields which skirt the edge of the creek. Some of them that carry a few
guns have an ugly, suspicious look, and should you doubt their honesty,
one glance at the thievish-looking crew will settle the question. They
are opium smugglers for the towns and villages along the creeks, and
are, besides, not at all unwilling to plunder villages when opportunity
offers, or to cruise as pirates on a pinch.

Now from behind yonder point shoots out a row-boat bearing the Imperial
flag; how she glides along, and well she may, for twenty-eight oars on
each side make her walk amazingly fast. Most of her crew look well-fed
and sleek, as though the collection of state revenues were pleasant
work.

Presently a junk comes in sight, amid noise and confusion. She has many
rowers, and her light cotton sails might be taken for great handbills,
for they are covered with writing in the native character. That is
the Imperial tax-boat, taking her rounds to gather in the revenue. No
wonder there is such a hubbub from the fleet of sanpans that follow in
her wake.

One day, about the latter end of July, a great many long and
gaudily-painted canoes, decorated with flags and banners, and moved
by about thirty paddles on each side, passed up and down the river
opposite the town. In the middle of each canoe was a monster drum,
which two Celestial drummers beat with a vengeance. “Why don’t ye hit
a little harder, old fellow?” sung out one of our mess. “You call that
tum-tum, do ye?” After a bit we noticed that the paddlers kept time
to the beating of the drums, while a showily-dressed fellow, posted
beneath each of the standards, jumped up two or three feet at every
stroke of the drumsticks. Up and down, up and down, they all kept
on, as if they were moved by springs, or had the spirit of dancing
dervishes; and all the time the hot sun was beating down upon their
uncovered heads. Some of these canoes were superior to the rest, having
carved figure-heads, and covered sterns; being, as our joker said,
“Titivated off to the nines.” When this squadron arrived at the end
of the town, the rowers, instead of turning the boats round, turned
themselves round. I was afterwards told that this was a part of certain
ceremonies performed during the Feast of Dragons. To us it was quite a
novel sight, and one of the prettiest we had seen in China.

The main excitement we got about this time was having occasionally to
pull some of our officers up to Canton; a trip for which volunteers
were always ready, for we got leave to roam about and see sights, a
liberty not allowed at the time when we helped to take the city. In my
first good uninterrupted stroll in the city I went along the street of
Benevolence and Love, or “Ill-will and stink,” as old Archie said it
“had ought to be called.” It was thronged with natives of all classes:
grandees and coolies, and clerks with a business air about them, and
an inkhorn stuck in their girdle; and such a lot of lazy, loaf-about
fellows, who apparently would sooner live by their wits than their
work: bold, bad men, sallow and unhealthy-looking from the effects of
opium, and who always endeavour to stare you out of countenance.

Turning suddenly round an angle of the street, we came upon a
manufacturer of gods--strange as it may sound, it was so. With a small
quantity of clay and putty, or chunam, and a few pots of red, blue, or
some other attractive colour, we saw him making little deities for the
curious and eager people around him. Another thing that surprised us
was to see among the paints and perfumes a barber’s shop, and a number
of false tails hung up for sale to Canton coxcombs. Well, if women wear
false curls, why should not puppies wear false tails?

I had heard often that the Chinamen were fond of gambling, but had
never seen them at play, until in one of my rambles on a wet day I
saw a party under a rude shed rattling dice in a basin and throwing
three times in succession, and then counting gains or losses. Three
out of the five men were soon stumped, and away they went, with vexed
and sheepish looks, to raise the wind for another attempt; their two
comrades meanwhile playing away as hard as ever. Soon one of these lost
his all, and began gazing rather mournfully into the watery sky; when,
taking compassion upon him, I gave him a few cash which I had about
me; not from any approval of his gambling propensities, but a curious
desire to see if he would put the unexpected supply to a better use;
but I had not time to wait and see.

One day I went to look at a ‘sing-song,’ as the Chinese call a
singing-house. It was a huge boat, with a long room built on the
deck, displaying specimens of good carving, and decorated with large
mirrors and brilliant hanging lamps. The musicians sat on each side of
this room with their various instruments, and a gay company of young
painted females, who accompany the music with their voices, in a harsh,
screeching tone, which made Jem say, “His poor old mother’s Tom cat ’ud
do it better nor that.”

After the concert comes a repast of sweetmeats for the singers, and tea
without milk or sugar was given to the audience in tiny china cups, for
one cash: about the twentieth part of a penny. After this the row went
on again, with but little variation, till we got tired and went away. I
was told, however, that they break up somewhere about cock-crow.

One day a party in which I was included had a week’s liberty, and went
up to the city. We lodged while there at naval head-quarters, a house
near the river, with rooms for the senior naval officers, and a large
room for the seamen attached; the ground before it sloped down to the
water, and a pleasant old willow overshadowed the door; and on a little
pier leading from the captain’s quarters was a flagstaff, on which the
Union Jack was hoisted every morning.

I took the opportunity to call on Mr. M’Clintock, the
commissary-general, who had brought me out a book from home, to express
my thanks for the favour. He was lounging in his bamboo chair (it
was early in the afternoon). He looked hard at me upon my entrance;
but when I told him my name, he expressed himself glad to see me.
“It was such a trifling thing he did for me,” he said, “not worth
mentioning--he would be glad to do it again. Had I been in England he
would have recommended me to his brother, Captain M’Clintock; but if
he saw a good thing before our ship left the station he would remember
me.” He then said good-bye. But the good thing did not turn up, for I
heard from him no more.

I and another went to see the Temple of the Five Hundred Gods, situate
in the north-west quarter of the city. After a walk of about four miles
we arrived at the temple, a huge square building, gloomy-looking and
forbidding. Many priests, with shaven crowns and clad in long black
robes, were flitting about the entrance; they appeared very willing to
show us the curiosities of their temple. The interior is lofty, and
about two hundred feet square, looking more like a prison than a place
of reverence. Platforms are ranged about the floor, on which the gods
stand close together. We wondered if they felt uncomfortable in hot
weather. They are about half the size of life, many of them of horrible
shapes, some having half a dozen arms, three or four legs, three heads:
all as ugly as possible. Most of them represent the male sex, but there
were one or two solitary females, gorgeously gilt, whose features and
form were less unnatural than those of their male companions. One of
these fellows was a hideous monster of a blubberly figure, with great
folds of fat hanging from his breast and cheeks. His name is Chong,
and, as we were told, he watches over the happiness of young maidens.
What English girl would face such a frightful god as that! We saw,
however, a great many Canton lasses who had evidently come to have a
look at their ugly protector.

The wall of Canton is worthy of notice, and it is possible to have
a ramble on the top of it. I got up very early one morning, before
sunrise, on purpose to go this journey. About the east gate the wall is
broad and firm, and from between the rows of embrasures you get a good
view of the plain of Canton and the country round about. That red brick
building with the glazed tiles, and with two scathed and withered trees
growing over it, is the building used for a magazine when we captured
the city, and which blew up by some accident as our blue-jackets were
clearing it of the jars of powder and pitching them into the ponds.
Groups of green trees something like willows, groves of orange-trees
and mandarins’ houses on little eminences, and lonely little ferries
across the creeks, are here the features without the wall. Looking from
the heights near the north gate, you see the city lies like a huge
village beneath. The houses are mostly low--about two stories--but,
contrasted with the look of an English city, they appear like wretched
huts: no glass windows, no ornamental glass work, chimney-pots,
trellis-work, water-spouts, are visible. As their fires are generally
made from charcoal, there was not a dim pall of smoke over the city,
but a misty haze, as is generally seen over big towns that don’t burn
coal. The only buildings which catch the eye and relieve the general
monotony are one or two lofty pagodas and the glazed tiles of the
turned-up and highly ornamental temples. You see more of the country,
too, here, and miles of tea plantations, which give the appearance of a
garden.

On coming to the north-east gate, I observed, at one of the angles,
marks of the effect of our shot and shell of three years ago.

The eastern suburbs, or ‘subrubs,’ as the Highflyers would say,
attracted a good share of my attention, and I stood for some time
looking down into the narrow street, just opposite a tea-shop, in which
were ranged enormous canisters of the plant, and large porcelain basins
heaped up with the different samples. The shop, even at that early
hour, was full, and I could hear the clink of money, the rustling of
the crisp, dry tea, and voices in compliment or bargain, from my high
station. I passed the north-east gate, going on towards the north,
when I observed beneath me, without the wall, a small plot of ground,
which I at first sight took to be a garden; but the low hillocks and
headstones, telling of frail mortality, soon undeceived me. It was
the Christian burial-ground, and it seemed like an oasis in the pagan
land. Many a poor fellow-countryman, I thought, as I looked at it, lies
here, whether sped to his last home by the musket-ball or a victim to
the climate. Soon after I got to the north gate, at the foot of the
heights. Here the road had been partially rebuilt by us. The heights
are like a slope, with shady trees and houses.

To reach the west gate I had to pass through the court-yard of the
pagoda of the French head-quarters. On each side of the entrance to the
building stands a lion, well carved in stone, of ancient workmanship.
All was quiet as I thus stood for a minute, looking about, for our
French neighbours were not yet up. There was only a solitary seaman
sentry to be seen at the entrance; so, helping myself to a draught of
their wine-and-water, which stood ready for use in the court-yard, away
I went, and got back to our quarters in time for breakfast.

Having heard by report a great deal about Yeh’s park, I went a day
or two after to see it. One would smile at the name applied to such
a thing in England. Badly-kept shrubs skirt its straggling pathways;
an imperfect fishpond, its waters polluted and stinking, occupies
the centre. Picture the remainder as about two and a half acres of
scurvy-looking grass, growing in sub-divisions, cropped by sundry
scraggy-looking ponies belonging to anybody, and a small herd of meagre
white-spotted deer, and you have the park. I noticed some of our shot
and missiles lying in the neglected place.

Soon after our return on board an incident occurred which gave us
another touch of our new captain’s character. One of the marines, a
sickly man, had given some offence--I forget what--and the captain said
he would flog him, and turned the hands up to hear the warrant read.
Well, it was read by him very angrily, and the poor fellow was being
taken below to be kept in irons till the next day, when the doctor
interposed: “Sir,” said he, touching his cap, “that man is not capable
of bearing corporal punishment; he is on the sick list.” “Are you quite
certain he can’t bear it, doctor?” “Quite, Sir.” “Oh! Yes. Well,” says
the captain, turning to the culprit, “it’s a good thing you are sick;
but, mark you! I _will_ flog you, as sure as my name’s ------; if I
wait till doomsday you shall have it. Pipe down, boatswain’s mate.
Doctor, report to me when he _is_ well enough; bear it in mind.”

“There’s a little bantam-cock for you,” said some of our men, as we
went forward again. “Now, ain’t ye sorry old daddy S---- left ye?” “Pay
her off,” rejoined others, “it’s near time; if we lives together much
longer, we’ll be eating one another up.”

After all, the monotony wearied me less than the others; for it was
while lying off Whampoa that I had the privilege to become acquainted
with our chaplain. It came about in this way: I had asked the ship’s
schoolmaster if he knew of a Homer’s Iliad that could be borrowed, and
he, not knowing, inquired of the chaplain, who sent me a summons to his
cabin. He asked me many questions, particularly as to my occupation
before taking to the sea. “Whatever could have possessed you?” he
said; “surely you do not mean to continue a sailor?” I answered that
I bitterly repented, and that if ever I got home again I’d try for my
discharge. After a little more talk he showed me a Homer, which was
truly all Greek to me, and advised me when I wanted anything to apply
to him; he would lend any of his books, and always be glad to tell me
anything. A short time afterwards I told him I had been trying to work
out a problem or two in navigation. He asked to see them, and so began
a course of kind teachings, which continued for many months. I used to
do two or three problems and then go and show them to him. He would
correct them or point out mistakes, and give me something more to go on
with, and finish off with a few good and kindly words and his pleasant
smile. He was much gratified when I added trigonometry to my lesson;
and when, some weeks later, I showed him my first ‘day’s work’ as the
fruit of his instruction, he spoke words of encouragement which I shall
never forget.




CHAPTER XV.

 An agreeable Surprise--Ordered to Swatow--Pirates--The weary
    Anchorage again--Pay-day and Auction Sales--Relief at last--Happy
    Highflyers--Departure from Whampoa--Hurrah for Home!--Working
    with a Will--Departure from Hong-Kong--Caught in a Cyclone--The
    Trades--Glorious Sailing--The _Roman Emperor_--Do you want
    the Longitude?--Snarley-yow’s Growl--Simon’s Bay--Departure
    from the Cape--The Long Pig or the Short Pig?--The Bill of
    Portland--Anchor at Spithead--Wives and Sweethearts--Joys and
    Sorrows--The Chaplain’s Advice--Pay-day and Liberty--Home--Getting
    a Discharge--Conclusion.


September 26th.--We were quite surprised out of our inactivity, in the
early morning, by a gun-boat steaming up the river, flying the signal,
_Prepare for sea_. Soon all was hurry and bustle; we knew nothing of
our destination, but the bare idea of going from this dull place was
sufficient to make us work, and by seven o’clock we had sails bent,
boats in, and were steaming down the river. Early on the 27th we
arrived in Hong-Kong, and found we had to go to Swatow, to try to get
back some Europeans from the hands of the Chinese, who had unlawfully
taken them prisoners. Our instructions were, if we could not get them
by fair means we were to use foul means, and administer a little
punishment by way of wholesome admonition. So to Swatow we went, and
lay there two or three days, and by the assistance of the Consul and
his interpreter the captives were released.

Swatow is situated near the mouth of a river, in very flat country.
It is a great resort of pirates, who ravage their neighbours and
defenceless traders, and set everything but Englishmen and English
courage at defiance. The place does plenty of trade, however. We left
it on the 9th of November, and with a fair breeze away we went south
for Hong-Kong, where we arrived after a run of sixteen hours.

Here we stayed a day or two, to get some few stores and provisions,
and then up to our old anchorage off Whampoa, having been away the
remarkable space of three weeks.

And so time jogged on wearily enough till Christmas Day, which was
quite as jolly and noisy as in former years. I find it stands in
my log thus: “State of ship’s-company, very drunk; state of myself,
supremely wretched. Most of us had reckoned upon being in old England
this time last year; and it’s very true that ‘Hope deferred maketh the
heart sick.’”

If it had not been for pay-day and the arrival of the mail we should
perhaps have gone mad. Once a month we were allowed to draw ‘compo,’
that is, a part of the past four weeks’ wages, according to our
different ratings. A petty-officer, who got 3_l._ per month, could draw
one pound ten, or half; an able seaman, at 2_l._ per month, drew one
pound; boys and ordinary seamen, a smaller sum. On the first of every
month the table would be placed on the break of the quarter-deck, and
the paymaster and his clerk, with the captain or first-luff, to prevent
mistakes, took their seats at the table, with sundry heaps of money
before them. Then the hands would ‘lay aft,’ and according as they
stood on the ship’s books, so they got paid. I often resolved before
the first of the month that I wouldn’t take up my ‘compo’ this time,
but save it. However, so certainly as the day came round, and the money
chinked on the pay-table, so did my resolution forsake me, and my pay
came into my hands; but not long to stay there. As a general rule, I
noticed that those men who were married, or had been a long time in the
service, were always the men who could save. Now and then young Topman
would take a saving fit; but the money tempted him, and he found it too
hard to “leave it behind,” as we used to say.

When a messmate or a shipmate dies, his bag and effects are taken in
charge by the master-at-arms, a list made of them, and then they are
stowed away for a month. At the end of that time they are sold, the
proceeds going, with his wages, to his relatives.

On the quarter-deck and during the dinner-hour these sales take place;
the master-at-arms acting as auctioneer. “D’ye hear, there?” pipes the
boatswain’s mate. “You that wants to buy anything lay aft.” “Shall you
go, Bill?” “Yes; go! my word, won’t I! just to run up the things for
poor Dan’s old mother.” And ’tis surprising how every article is run up
to a high price, in order to benefit the poor fellow’s relations. The
men invariably say, “Well! I might want the same done for me, some day.”

When a ‘run’ man’s (a deserter) effects are sold, the money goes to
Government, and the difference in the prices offered then is striking:
a blue serge, which would have had a guinea bid for it at the dead
man’s sale, now fetches seven shillings.

At last, on the 3rd of February, 1861, a day to be long remembered, our
relief, in the shape of the _Simoom_ troop-ship, was signalled steaming
up the river. Oh! what a hubbub of voices, dancing and capering for
joy, and a shaking of hands. “Here she comes! Come at last!” Many of
us rushed to the capstan and actually shipped some of the bars: in
fact, it was a hard matter for us to keep from having a jolly good
hip--hip--hip! hurrah! And we were all so surprisingly active and
willing to get under weigh there and then. The next day was Sunday--a
mizzly wet day. Service was dispensed with for the day; as some of
us said, “D’ye hear, there? there’ll be no Sunday here this Sunday
the parson’s gone to Tamerton;” and some thought ‘Holy Joe’ would be
disappointed. We hove up the anchor about mid-day, and turning ahead
full speed, soon lost sight of our weary anchorage and that everlasting
Chinese town of Whampoa.

On arrival at Hong-Kong, we were glad to hear we were not likely to
stop long, nor did we. “Go ahead!” said Admiral Jones to our skipper;
“and get ready for sailing as soon as you like.”

And so we did; and at last, on the 8th of February, five days after
getting our orders, we were reported ready for sea. The Admiral came
on board and mustered us, and almost before he was over the gangway to
leave, the capstan was manned, and we danced the heavy iron ‘killick’
up to the bows quicker than ever before, and with our long pendant,
‘homeward-bound,’ streaming away on the wind far astern of us, the band
playing _Home, sweet home_, we steamed out of Hong-Kong harbour on our
way home; all hearts beating joyously, and a bright and laughing sky
overhead.

“Well, Tom, we’re off at last; how long d’ye give her?” “How long?
eighty-four days!” “Yes, she’d ought to do it in that time! Hooray!
Flare-up for Chatham!”

On the 28th, we had a heavy, favourable breeze, and a lumpy sea, and a
very wild and vague look in the horizon; and the master said he thought
we should have nasty weather, so we took in light sails and reefed.
About noon the wind increased, and before midnight blew a perfect
hurricane, we driving before it under close-reefed main-topsail and
storm-staysail. By certain indications, and by the sudden veering of
the wind continually, the master and captain knew we were in a cyclone,
so we ‘wore ship’ and stood back. But now, having the gale right in
our teeth, we could not make much headway, and the good little craft
laboured so much, and shipped such green seas, that the order was given
to ‘lay to.’ The wind was so furious we could not hear one another’s
voices, and instead of raising great waves it nipped off their tops in
one great mass of hissing and blinding foam; which made some of our old
hands cry, “Ugh! this is one of the days we reads about. Just my clip,
this is!”

On the 5th of March, the wind having dropped, we wore and stood upon
our course again; glad enough to have escaped running into the vortex
of the storm. It passed us twice, and the master said it extended over
many degrees. I noticed that the wind shifted from and to the following
points: S.W., N.W., S.S.W., S.S.E., and N.N.W.

By-and-by we got into the trades, which blew us along at the rate of
two hundred and forty miles in twenty-four hours. There is no mistaking
the real trade-wind sky; mottled and calm-looking generally, or white
and fleecy, and sometimes wild tiers of clouds piled upon clouds, in
every fantastic shape. And the deep blue waves chase after the ship
with white, foaming tops, the good vessel herself booming along at full
speed, knocking the water from her bows in one big sheet of foam.
Beautiful to look at; but mariners call it soapsuds.

Now and then we would see a shoal of flying-fish, their scales and
gauze-like wings glittering in the sun; or a lively shoal of dolphins;
but these customers fought shy of hook and line. We saw nothing to
break the sameness of the horizon, save now and then a sail; and often
when I was up aloft I had a feeling of being alone with the blue waves
and the sunshine. “If ’twas always like this,” said Jem W., one day,
“I’d bring my big sister to sea with me.”

A few days before we got to the Cape, we passed and spoke the ship
_Roman Emperor_. We had sighted her early in the morning, and it was
soon manifest which vessel was the better sailer; but as a stern chase
is always a long one, we did not overhaul her till nearly eight P.M.,
and soon we were within hailing distance, and we could see the people
moving about on her decks and hear the straining of the yards as they
‘gave’ to the roll of the ship, while the bright moonlight enabled us
to trace every inch of her cordage high aloft. She was a fine sight,
with every stitch of available canvas set; ‘stunsails’ alow and aloft,
and everything showing out in good relief. By this time we could have
pitched a biscuit on her deck. At last our skipper hailed, “Ship
ahoy!” “Halloo,” came back very plainly, as if somebody had hailed
from the belly of her topsail. “Do you want the longitude?” “If you
please.” Then a pause, during which we heard nothing but the splashing
of the water against the bows of the two vessels, the creaking of
wheezy blocks, and the melancholy sough of the wind among the cordage.
Presently, “31 degrees 41 minutes at seven o’clock,” from our side,
breaks the pause. “Thank you, much obliged,” is the answer. Again our
skipper shouts, “Where are you from?” “Akyab; bound home;” and so we
parted, she gradually dropping astern and to leeward, and we dashing
away on our separate course, and the briefly-broken monotony again
reigned. In two hours she was out of sight, and we were again quite
alone.

The next day the wind shifted, and for several days after we had light
head winds, and frequently tacked. Some of our men grumbled at this,
or rather at the captain and master, something after this style:
Snarley-yow and his chum Curtis were sitting in the gangway, smoking:
“Well,” said Curtis, puffing hard and blowing out his blue clouds, “I’d
like to know when we’re agoin’ to get in! I don’t think, Snarley, as
how he knows where he is, ’cause I heard him tell the captain so.”
“Not he!” rejoins Snarley; “I’d go aft and manage her a great deal
better than he do.” “You’d have to be heaps smarter than you are now,
before you could,” said I, quietly; whereupon Snarley recommended me to
shut up, and be willing to know a little less than everything, but with
a seaman’s usual freedom of speech and vigorous expletives.

We arrived early on the morning of the 30th of March in Simon’s Bay.
The cutter--the boat to which I belonged--was the first for the shore;
and my feelings were joyous in the extreme to set foot on land again
among English people and English faces, especially in the fine weather
of an African autumn. But, as on our former visit here, my hopes of
seeing Cape Town were disappointed.

During this homeward voyage my time was much employed in the
‘sick-bay,’ helping the surgeon in his attendance on the men who were
on the sick-list. The chaplain had spoken of me to ‘the doctor,’ as
we used to call him, and I got many a kind word from him, and now and
then the loan of a book. In return I tried to do my best in assisting
him and waiting on the sick, for which he was good enough to give me
an acknowledgment, when about to leave the ship at Portsmouth, in a
testimonial letter, which I preserve for his sake.

We sailed again on the 4th of April, and were speeding along in the
Atlantic trades, when, one bright evening in May, up came the butcher,
in a great huff, to the officer of the watch, who was a Prussian
lieutenant taking a passage home in our ship: “Please, Sir, one of
the captain’s pigs is dead.” Now the skipper set great store on these
pigs, because they were Chinese. “What!” exclaimed the officer, in his
imperfect English; “you vas not say so; the captain vas very nearly
mad before, he vas be quite mad now!” However, he went below, as was
his duty, and reported it to the captain, who, quietly and contrary
to expectation, said, “Thank you, Waldersee; thank you.” The Prussian
came on deck again, and was talking to the middy of the watch, when
the skipper darts up the companion-ladder: “Waldersee! Waldersee!” (“I
vas catch it now,” said the lieutenant, running aft), “which pig is
it that’s dead, the long one or the short one?” For the life of him
the lieutenant did not know; but he hazarded a guess, “The long one,
Sir!” “Oh! thank you,” rejoined the skipper, snapping his fingers;
“what’s she going now?” “10.2, Sir!” “Oh! yes, just so; clap the lower
stunsail on, Waldersee;” and he dived again down the ladder.

Sailors’ pets are numerous, but monkeys and birds hold the
pre-eminence. We brought home about eighty canaries. Pigeons, fowls,
hawks, and even seagulls, are made so tame in a short time, as almost
to surpass belief; but sailors have a saying, that “anything can be
tamed in a man-o’-war in a week; a lion would be, let alone a bird.”
This is alluding to the rough fare and usage he would certainly meet
with. We had a monkey so tame he would come into the mess and eat his
meals with the men, and even drink part of their grog, and sometimes
get drunk, when its idiotic antics were called a “jolly lark.”

The North Star rose higher and higher, and at length we entered the
Chops of the Channel. On the 22nd of May we saw and passed the Bill of
Portland; I gazed on it with emotion and gratitude as the first English
land I had seen for five years, and home was near. This was about
mid-day, and later in the afternoon our anchor was let go, and we rode
safely in the waters of Spithead.

The next day the ship was beset by boats, crowded with the men’s wives
and sweethearts, and the meetings were striking by their extreme
contrast. Here, one poor fellow’s daughter had come off to see her
father--alas! poor girl, she will never see him more; he lies in a
lonely grave on the banks of the Canton River. Here, a mother and
sister have come to see their Joe--what a hugging and kissing and
admiring; while the solitary occupant of the next boat, upon being
informed of her poor husband’s fate, buries her face in her hands and
sobs as if her heart would break. There are plenty of rough and honest
sympathisers with her among her husband’s former companions; but she
heeds them not; what is the world to her now poor Tom is gone?

The day following we steamed into harbour, where, moored alongside the
dockyard wharf, we began the work of dismantling and stripping gaily
enough. On Saturday evening we had liberty given till Monday, but I
did not go; I knew no one in Portsmouth, and I did not want to borrow
anything from the pleasure of going for good on the Friday following.

On Sunday morning, May 26, our good chaplain read prayers for the
last time, many of the ship’s company being present. I improved the
greater part of the afternoon by having a long and very interesting
conversation with the excellent man, who said, as our time drew to a
close, “Remember, my dear young friend, it doesn’t always require
extraordinary talents or endowments to get on in this life. If you
always endeavour to do right, so as to have no cause for self-reproach,
and remember your Maker, you cannot fail of success! And now, if I
don’t see you again, I will say good-bye. Remember my simple advice and
act up to it; while performing your earthly duties do not forget your
heavenly ones, and may you prosper.” I am not ashamed to confess that
tears were in my eyes as I shook hands with the man who had been my
friend, and I felt I loved him.

By Wednesday evening the ship was stripped, and there lay the gallant
_Highflyer_, a mere hulk.

Friday came, the pay-day! We began pretty early; each one went into
the cabin, received his five years’ wages, had his liberty ticket
given to him, and was free to come and go for two months. I got my
wages and ticket: the latter bore a precept requiring me to report
myself on board the _Fisgard_, at the end of my leave. About three in
the afternoon, and with cheerful feelings, I stepped from the gangway
into the dockyard, took a long look at the wooden walls which had
been my home for nearly five years, and for which I shall always have
a warm corner in my heart; and with light step and a long, heavy,
bolster-like bag and a bundle or two I made my way to the railway
station, and in half an hour from the time I was paid-off was being
rapidly whirled towards London and home.

Was it not strange? The delight of arrival at home had occupied my
mind, day and night, for months and years; yet, when I carried my bag
up the steps and left it at the door while I ran down to the cab for my
bundles, it seemed to me as if home had lost all its charm, and that
I could willingly have gone away without opening the door for another
five years. I cannot account for the strange emotion; all I know is
that it took a little time to rouse up the proper home-feeling in my
heart.

After a day or two, when the burst of greetings and congratulations was
over, I set about getting my discharge. For this purpose I went down
to the _Fisgard_ at Woolwich, and got aboard just before dinner-time,
and was told I couldn’t see the commander till half-past one, so of
course I had to wait, and a dreary wait it was. I wasn’t asked to have
a bit of grub by anybody--so different from a sea-going ship, where
I should have been dragged down below in quarter less than no time;
but _Guardhos_ are always stingy. Well, at the half-hour I saw the
commander, who merely glanced at me, and appeared to be just aware of
my presence, looked at my liberty-ticket, and then with his hand waved
a most majestic “You can go;” and I went below with the schoolmaster,
who gave me a form of petition to be filled up and forwarded to the
Admiralty, at the same time telling me “he most times have got a
trifle, and he have known himself to get five shillings; ’cause, you
know,” added he, “I writes them.” “Well,” said I, “if any one ever
gave you five shillings for doing your duty, he was a fool;” and away
I went on the upper-deck, where I met the master-at-arms, who it seems
goes halves with the schoolmaster--one writes the form and the other
takes it to the _Fisgard’s_ office, and of course he expects a trifle
too. I went away in one of the ship’s boats to the dockyard, walked up
to the office and presented my paper, and was told to call after ten
days, when my discharge would most likely be down. So at the end of
that time I went again, but nothing had come; I waited a week, and went
again, but nothing had come. I waited another week, went once more to
Woolwich, and was at last told the discharge had come. But as I had
served only five of the ten years agreed on, I had to pay 12_l._ 16s.
for the bit of parchment, filled up as appears in the Appendix, which
the clerk put into my hands. However, with light heart, and pocket
equally light, I stepped out of the office a free man, and no longer a
servant of the Queen.

And so I quitted a sea-life, in which with many hard experiences I
had learned one great thing--obedience. I had seen Teneriffe, South
America, the Cape, the East, and last, but not least, Japan and
Tartary. I had seen storm and calm, and waterspouts, and St. Elmo’s
lights, and other marvellous works of Nature in the great deep. I
could hand, reef, and steer, and, from the chaplain’s teaching, make
out a day’s work and find a ship’s course. No young fellow could go
through all this without being somewhat the better for it. I quitted
the service from a general feeling of dislike, and from its holding out
but a poor prospect. All I could hope for was a petty-officer’s rating
at 3_l._ per month, and with scarcely a privilege beyond that of an
ordinary seaman.

Soon after getting my discharge I called at Somerset House for my
share of the 30,543_l._ 15s. of Canton prize-money. The clerk handed
me twenty-eight shillings, which, apart from the glory, was all I got
for my fortnight’s “hard laying,” and the chance of being shot by the
provost-marshal. Then as my friends wished to remember how I looked as
a sailor, they sent me to a photographer, and the publisher of my book
taking advantage of that circumstance, and thinking that boys may wish
to see what a young topman in the Royal Navy looks like, has copied me
for a frontispiece. I wish he hadn’t.

And now, having told my tale, I cannot help saying, in conclusion, that
it is good to have discovered that discipline can be borne and with
advantage; to feel that you have striven for the right and not in vain;
and that you have brought away from the great ocean something that will
impress and elevate the mind, and promote manliness of character.




APPENDIX.


   _________                                                         \In the event of a man
  /         \                                                         \having borne a bad
  |Admiralty|                                                          \character on board
  |  Seal   |                                                           \any ship, the
  \_________/   CONTINUOUS SERVICE CERTIFICATE OF                        \Captain of such
                _________________________________ Y. M.                   \ship is to cut
                                                                           \off this corner.
                                                                            \
           Date of Entry for such Service.        Age at that time.          \
                                                  When and where registered.  \
 ---------+----+--------+----------+----------+--+--+--+--------+-------+------+------+-----
  Ship’s  |    |        |          |Discharge |  |  |  |        |Ability|  C   | Captain’s
  Name.   |No. |Rating. |  Entry.  |   or     |Y.|M.|D.|Conduct.|  as   |Badge.| Signature.
          |    |        |          |Transfer. |  |  |  |        |Seaman.|      |
 ---------+----+--------+----------+----------+--+--+--+--------+-------+------+------------
 Highflyer|  21| Boy 1 C|  Dec., 55|17 May, 57|  |  |  |        |       |      |
          |    |        |          |          |  |  |  |        |       |      |
   Do.    |   3|Ord. 2 C|   May, 57|1 Oct., 57|  |  |  |  Good  | Fair  |      |C. F. A.
          |    |        |          |          |  |  |  |        |       |      |  Shadwell
          |    |        |          |          |  |  |  |        |       |      |
   Do.    | 161|    ”   |  Oct., 57|2 Jan., 60|  |  |  |        |       |      |
          |    |        |          |          |  |  |  |        |       |      |
   Do.    | 161|Ord. 1 C|3 Jan., 60|31 May, 61|  |  |  |  Good  | Good  |      |W. A. J.
          |    |        |          |          |  |  |  |        |       |      |  Heath
          |    |        |          |          |  |  |  |        |       |      |
 Fisgard  |1757|  Ord.  |1 June, 61|4 July, 61|  |  |  |        |       |      |
          |    |        |          |          |  |  |  |        |       |      |
          |    |        |          |          | Shore by } Time only    |      |Henry Hawker
          |    |        |          |          | purchase }              |      |
 ---------+----+--------+----------+----------+-----------------+-------+------+------------

NOTE.--The conduct of a seaman being his passport for future service,
the character of the party is to be impartially stated, after careful
inquiry, and with reference to his whole period of service in the ship.


THE END.




Transcriber’s Notes


 • Italics represented by surrounding _underscores_.

 • Small caps converted to ALL CAPS.

 • Obvious typographic errors or omissions silently corrected.

 • Variations in hyphenation and spelling kept as in the original.

 • The footnote has been numbered and moved to below its referent
   paragraph.


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