The Project Gutenberg eBook of Ten years' experience in raising carrots and cabbage
This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
of the Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online
at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States,
you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located
before using this eBook.
Title: Ten years' experience in raising carrots and cabbage
Author: H. A. Cook
Release date: October 26, 2025 [eBook #77128]
Language: English
Original publication: New York: Brown and Hewitt, Printers, 1866
Credits: Charlene Taylor, Matthew Everett and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN RAISING CARROTS AND CABBAGE ***
Transcriber’s Notes
• Text in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_).
• Text in bold is enclosed by equal signs (=bold=).
• The following issues should be noted, along with the resolution:
5 dry lo[o/a]m for the carrot patch. Replaced.
16 three hundred sto[r/n]e hog so fat, that a man of Replaced.
seventy-five
17 meal per day, I will fatten a three hundred Replaced.
sto[r/n]e hog so
------------------------------------------------------------------------
INDEX.
PAGE
Kind of Soil for Carrots, 5
Sowing Carrots, 6
Tilling ” 10
Hoeing ” 11
Weeding ” 12
Digging ” 13
Storing ” 15
The Value of Carrots, 16
Carrots _vs._ Other Roots, 17
How to Raise and Clean the Seed, 18
How to Select Good Seed, 19
Raising Cabbage, 20
Transplanting Cabbage, 21
Tilling ” 23
Heading ” 23
Lice on ” 24
Gathering ” 25
Five Acres Enough, 26
To Make Plenty of Manure for these Five Acres, 27
Every Man his own Barometer, 28
Weather Sayings, &c., 30
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TEN YEARS’ EXPERIENCE
IN RAISING
CARROTS AND CABBAGE.
BY
H. A. COOK,
Hillsdale, Col. Co., N. Y.
New York:
BROWN & HEWITT, PRINTERS, 37 PARK ROW.
1866.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866, by
H. A. COOK,
In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Southern
District of New York.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
INTRODUCTION.
Having observed from early youth by the little garden bed that carrots
were a greatly productive crop, and the most nutritious root that I
grew, I desired to try their cultivation on a large scale.
The idea seemed to be indelible on my mind, and as soon as age and
circumstances would allow I essayed to gratify my desire. My great
obstacle was Mr. Weed, which was bound to get ahead of my carrots; but
being somewhat indefatigable in my energies, I gave close application to
years of experiments in devising a plan how I should raise them without
such a heavy tax upon the back, which seemed to almost “crack” under the
old system. I first saw that I must be careful in selecting my seed,
then I must devise a plan to force it, and then seek a plan to sow it
(seeing that I could not sow it with a drill), then I must devise a
different mode of cultivation, and lastly a plan to gather them more
easily.
After having reduced my experiments to a system, and found that I could
raise them with less than half the expense of the old way, I conceived
the idea of putting my plan of raising in the form of a pamphlet, and
disclosing it to the world. While raising carrots I also experimented on
cabbages, and found them also to be a remunerative crop. The success
which I reached in raising them I attribute to a composition which I
apply to the roots, so that they may be transplanted in a dry day
instead of a wet one, thereby leaving the ground mellow; my entirely new
mode of culture, and, lastly, my valuable composition (which is simple,
cheap, and in the reach of all) for the heads, which augments the crop
by half at least. Here, reader, I will leave you to peruse the following
pages.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TEN YEARS’ EXPERIENCE
IN RAISING
CARROTS AND CABBAGE.
I estimate that I can raise one acre of carrots as easily as two acres
of corn. Upon keeping a close account in the year 1864 of my expenses in
raising an acre of 500 bushels, I found it to be $50, aside from
interest of land. At least he who will follow the instructions of the
following pages may raise them at a cost of 10 cents per bushel.
_Kind of Soil._—Should be the same as for corn. Loose ground, even,
quite moist, will raise the largest carrots in a dry season, while a
sandy or quite gravelly soil will do the best in a wet season. It is
best to select a somewhat dry loam for the carrot patch.
Plow the ground in autumn to kill all grass and weed roots,
simultaneously destroying many weed seeds, and level the plot well that
it may be more easily leveled in spring. Manure should also be plowed
under in the fall, that most of the weed seeds which it contains will be
rendered lifeless by the action of the winter’s frost. Hog manure
composted with swamp muck is the best. If from necessity you must manure
in spring, look to it that your manure has no weed-seed in it.
Never put carrots two years in succession upon the same ground, for they
seem to be very exhausting to a certain ingredient of the soil necessary
for their growth, and only applicable to their nature; however, not
rendering the soil futile for almost any other crop, or apparently not
diminishing its strength more than an ordinary corn crop.
_Kind of Seed._—The long orange is the best for nearly every purpose,
although the white may grow as many bushels. Always get new seed, which
you can designate by its being a lively green. Old seed is of a
yellowish hue, and is much longer sprouting (a fact common to all old
seeds).
_Sowing._—Sow as early as the dryness of the ground will admit—if it is
done in April the larger will be the crop—but by all means _never work
in, or be found on your ground when it is wet_, if so, you will
certainly be sorry. Make it your rule never to be on your patch when the
dirt adheres to your hoe.
Reader, if you adopt the plan of these pages, please remember _their
italics_. By sowing early—if you are a farmer—your weeding will be done
before haying, and the carrots will be ripened to dig before the usual
heavy fall rains come on. Carrots that have ripened before digging seem
to have more solidity, and are not so watery as those which are sowed
late, and consequently dug when growing. Hence we must draw the
inference that early sowed carrots are worth more for feeding, as with
any vegetable that ripens before gathering. These latter remarks are
applicable to the 42d° of latitude. Plow deeply, as they will root as
deeply as you plow, if the soil extends as far. Level the ground that
you may cover the carrots more uniformly, and that in tilling you may
not work the dirt from the carrots in the higher places, consequently
leave the root protruding above ground, nor choke those in lower places
by working the dirt into the hollows. Never ridge the drill for carrots,
for in tilling you necessarily work the dirt away, and my experience is,
that carrots will not thrive best except the upper end of the carrot be
allowed to keep a level with the surface of the ground.
Harrow the last time in a contrary direction from which you design to
sow. It pays well to handrake the ground before sowing. If the ground is
sideling make your drills directly up and down the slope, that in
tilling you may not work too much dirt upon the upper side of the
carrot.
Now make a hand dray with thills and four prongs, or teeth, with the
bottoms inclining backward (because if so, it will run more steady), and
two feet apart. Make the bottoms of the teeth a little wedge shape—quite
blunt.
Now draw a line across your patch, and let one prong of the dray run
close to it. Returning, let one prong follow the last mark back,
straightening the crook. Set the line anew every time around within two
inches of the last mark, that you may the more easily keep your work
straight, and all the drills a uniform distance apart, the importance of
which will be seen especially at the first time of cultivating, and at
the time of plowing them out in the fall, as I shall subsequently show.
Do not dray out many marks ahead of sowing, as it is better to have
fresh dirt come in contact with the seed. Three or four days before you
wish to sow, moisten your seed thoroughly, and set it in a warmish
place, say on the mantle-piece, near the stove pipe, stirring it once a
day. If a few seeds should have sprouted a little at sowing time all is
well; but be cautious that they do not get too dry before covering. The
best carrots I ever raised, and the most easily tilled, were sprouted
the sixteenth of an inch at sowing time. If the ground—from the effects
of a late rain—has become too wet when you are ready to sow, and your
seed is liable to sprout, put it in a bag that it may drain, and hang it
in the cellar that the cool air of the cellar will keep it back. Do not
keep it there more than twelve hours lest it rot, but bring it to the
warm air for another twelve hours, till you think it again has a
tendency to germinate, when if the ground is not yet fit to sow, go with
it to the cellar again. In this way I have kept it from sprouting for
eight days before my ground was fit to sow because of the long rains,
when, if I had kept it behind the stove pipe it would have spoiled. In
five days after sowing my carrots appeared above ground.
The utility of soaking the seed is this,—the carrots will come up quick,
consequently get far the start of the weeds; you can go among them with
a horse and cultivator before hoeing, besides saving once weeding and
hoeing,—in fine, half the expense of raising is saved by sprouting the
seed, or rather swelling it till it is just ready to sprout. With the
seed prepared in this wise, probably no crop is more sure to grow and be
productive of a satisfactory yield than the carrot crop.
But how shall we sow this soaked seed which sticks to everything so?
About an hour before you wish to sow spread it out very thinly in pans
in the sun, and wind it till it becomes non-adhesive; but be cautious
that you do not dry it back to its original state, lest you kill it;
however, there is not much danger of this; now turn a dinner horn (say
about two feet long) bottom up, enlarge the orifice at the lower end
that the seed will not clog within it. See to it that your seed is not
too moist, else you cannot sift it through the fingers evenly, and it
will clog in the horn. Hold the horn with a gill cup full of seed in the
left hand. Sift the seed into the horn with the thumb and two front
fingers of the right hand. The horn being conical the seed will rattle
down its sides and seem to come out as evenly as you could place them
with the fingers, if you move along with the horn with a uniform step.
If nature has given you a long back you must get a long horn, lest you
may not have the “back-ache.” Now traverse your drill which you have
just made with your dray with the little end of your horn close to the
bottom of the drill, especially if the wind blows, sowing with your
fingers in the top of the horn, which, after you have become used to
doing, you will perform about as fast as you can walk. Have a boy cover
after you with a piece of hoop iron, say eight inches long, nailed to a
hoe handle. A piece of old cradle scythe is better, being a little
sharp. See that he covers all, and none more than a half inch deep. Do
not sow much before covering, as the soaked seed will dry too much for
its good. About two pounds of seed per acre is required, yet one and a
half will do uniformly sown; better to have them too thick than too
thin. Sow about four times as much seed as you wish to have if they all
grew well, for many will not appear, especially if you have a few lumps
or small stones in your ground; besides, in cultivating and tilling you
will accidentally destroy many, and, moreover, it is better to have them
come up too thick—for then you can pull them out—than too thin, for you
cannot transplant them and have them do well. By thus sowing with a horn
you can see if you make a mistake, whereas with a drill you cannot. For
this reason I never have or will have a drill; besides, if your seed is
a little moist a drill will clog, therefore with a drill you must sow
dry seed, which is generally about three weeks “coming up,” while the
weeds generally will hide the carrots, and it is like finding a honey
bee’s teeth to find the carrots among the weeds.
With a small boy I can sow one and a half acres per day, and I estimate
that is sowing them fast enough. Sow as soon as the ground is plowed, if
convenient, to get the start of the weed seed.
After sowing use a heavy hand roller to pulverize the lumps; the morning
is the preferable time to use the roller, as the lumps are then moist
and break easily. It is said that the heavier (if the ground is dry)
they are rolled the better. A friend informs me that this was also
proven in England, by a horse rolling upon a carrot patch; it was found
that where he rolled the carrots were much larger than elsewhere.
A roller can be made by any cobbler from a piece of log 2-1/2 feet in
length. An old thrashing machine cylinder, minus the teeth, makes an
excellent roller. When you have done rolling the carrot patch it is then
useful for other plots.
_Tilling._—Begin as soon as you can see the rows, especially if you have
a large piece. Having nearly or quite sprouted your seed before sowing,
you will be enabled to take your horse, led by a boy, into the patch,
and cultivate them the first thing, as you would corn, for they are now
two inches above the weeds. Loosen the dirt deeply. When a plant is
young is the time to give it deep tillage, that the fibrous roots can
shoot out without obstruction—this should be observed in all tillage.
What would you think of him who did not dig about a tree which he wishes
to hastily become large, till its fibrous roots had become all twisted
by their strenuous efforts to push through the hard ground? We should at
once say that his tree would be dwarfish. So it is with carrots
emphatically. A deep culture in all plants till there is danger of
wounding the rootlets, which are shooting out into the ground made
mellow by the deeply-plunged cultivator or plow, as the first
cultivation is far the best. But do not practice the corresponding error
of leaving deep cultivation too soon.
Having sowed the rows on a line uniformly two feet apart, and the
cultivator, which should have but three teeth, as more will clog, set to
the width of eighteen inches, we can now see the utility of having the
rows straight. Should the dirt accidentally cover some, let the boy go
through the patch with a broom and sweep them a little,—it seems to do
the plants good rather than injure them. Go through twice in each row,
as once seems to just loosen the weeds so that they grow better than
before. You should have sowed them thick enough to allow for what the
horse may destroy.
_Hoeing._—Procure small square cornered hoes, which are of the best
steel, and grind them as sharp as possible. I would no more think of
hoeing in my garden without a ground hoe than I would of hoeing without
meals, for cutting up weeds with a dull hoe is like cutting grass with a
dull scythe—it is the hardest of all work, while with a sharp hoe it is
comparatively easy. This is one reason why many dislike to work in the
garden. Having ground the hoe, send an experienced man—who should be
able to strike almost within a hair’s breadth of a carrot and not hit
it—to clip out what weeds he can get at with his hoe, also to thin them
as much as possible with his hoe, but not to weed with his fingers, for
his back is too long, and his time worth too much. If he understands his
business the job of weeding with the fingers is but a small one.
Cultivating and hoeing should be done when the ground is very dry.
_Weeding._—Weeding should not be done when the ground is very dry, as
the weeds are liable to break off to sprout again more than when the
ground is moist; however, if your patch is large continue to weed about
as fast as you hoe, for fear it will not be done; yet bear in mind never
to go on your ground when it is wet. Now employ boys whom you pay by the
row—for then, they have a greater stimulus to work—whose backs are
shorter than men’s, and who, if of the proper calibre, will weed as fast
as men at much less cost, and do it easier. Of course they will want the
superintendent’s eye over them. Thin them at the first weeding to two or
three inches asunder. I verily believe I can get more tons of carrots
per acre if they are one foot asunder than otherwise, but it is more
work to attend them when small, and keep the weeds down. You will
observe even at the first weeding that the scattering ones are the
largest, conclusively proving that they should be thinned early. In
fine, too much cannot be done to them when young, and _it will pay_.
Still, I would not have the reader believe that he has a great task to
raise them, for I set out in the beginning with the assertion that one
acre of carrots can be raised as easily as two of corn. It is useless to
transplant them.
Do not go among them with a horse after the bottoms become the size of a
man’s finger, for if you muss the tops about at that size you are sure
to stunt them. Do not take from, nor add to the dirt about their
bottoms, after they become the above size. You will also stunt them
(somewhat like beans) if you work among them when wet, which they will
show you by their tops falling and turning a pale yellow. When doing
well they will stand erect and be of a dark green color. When they have
turned yellow in the fall the presumption is that they are ripe and fit
to dig. The same is true of nearly all roots.
Should weeds appear after the last hoeing, take a sharp hoe and clip
among them, frequently using the hand to pull the weeds, being very
cautious not to disturb the carrot.
Now that cultivation is done, see to it that fowls, pigs, or other
animals are not allowed to ramble among them, for they will not do well
if disturbed. If you even run your finger about the top of the root you
will stunt it. No root is so healthy or more sure to grow and do well
than the carrot, if the instructions of the foregoing pages are
thoroughly adhered to, and they excel all other crops after the root
begins to show, in “standing” excessively dry or wet weather.
_Digging._—Let them remain in the ground as long as you dare for fear of
warm weather, as they will keep best in the ground till quite late;
however, if you have a large patch begin in time to secure them before
the ground freezes. Choose a dry spell in which to dig them as they are
so much cleaner to handle, and being clean are certainly worth more for
stock. It is not policy to feed dirt to any kind of stock, yet the more
dirt adheres to roots of any kind the better those roots will keep.
Firstly, mow the tops as closely with a scythe as possible, and pile in
a convenient place to cover over your carrots after they are dug, for it
is necessary to put them in heaps of about thirty bushels, that they may
go through the sweating or drying process. Three or four days before
putting into the cellar, or hole (so ought you with any root), then
cover them with the said tops to keep them dry; still the tops are poor
things to keep the frost out—straw is better, unless you wish to sell
them, in which case get them off as soon as possible, for they will
weigh more when first dug, for after being above ground a little they
shrink in weight and size. These tops are very fine for stock as they
come at a time when all other field fodder has become dry or frost
bitten. I have concluded that an acre of carrot tops is worth as much
for my milch cows as the hay that would have grown on a similar piece.
Perhaps it would not feed quite as far at the time, but I think it would
make as much milk.
Now, after having mowed and raked off the tops, send a boy with a sharp
hoe to cut them off again close to the butt end of the root. Take a team
with a large plow (which is adapted to turn a furrow directly bottom
side up), and run it as deeply as possible along the outside of the
first row, with the land side of plow about four inches from the carrot
row; after thus passing through the patch, wheel and go back to the
place of beginning without plowing. Now, setting the plow at the place
of beginning, go through again, keeping at this time the carrot row
(which has just been cut off,) a little to the right of the plow beam;
perhaps it is necessary for one to lean on the beam. Now you will turn
the carrots upon the edge of the last furrow; here you will again see
the utility of having the rows straight. Take a potatoe hook (or which
is better, an old potatoe hook which the blacksmith has drawn out to
small, long, and round tines) and rake the carrots out upon the top of
the ground to dry. Thus proceed with each row, always plowing through
twice to a row if the carrots are two feet apart and your plow is small,
but if your plow is larger than ordinary two horse land plows, you may
succeed in plowing out a carrot row every time the team goes through. If
you break or bruise a carrot it will not harm it if they are ripe. A
carrot broken into a dozen pieces will keep as well as if it were whole.
In this way I have had a man and boy dig and pick up ninety-five bushels
in one day, although it was a short day of November.
After they are dug carrots are the pleasantest of all roots to handle,
easily “picked up,” quite light to carry, and very accurately measured
in a large basket.
_Storing._—After they have remained in heaps above ground and dried
thoroughly, which is the whole secret of having them keep well through
the winter, they may be put in the cellar in a large bin with impunity,
to be kept till sowing time again, although it is not advisable to have
many left after the middle of April.
After they are dried in the heaps they should be hauled over again and
buried beneath plenty of straw and dirt, though they need not be secured
with manure like potatoes, for it does not hurt them to freeze a little
if they may stay beneath the dirt till it has drawn out the frost. From
this we might suppose that they would keep in the ground without digging
all winter, yet they will not. I suppose the main reason is because one
end of the carrot comes to the surface.
Should they freeze in the heaps at digging time before you get them
secured, throw some dirt upon them till the frost is out, or take them
to the cellar as quickly as possible, to escape the sun, and likewise
put on a little dirt. This page is also mostly applicable to the 42d
degree of latitude.
On Long Island carrots are buried without straw, with a little chimney
in the centre. Probably this mode of burying will do on a sandy soil,
but I think not on a soil of loam.
_The value of Carrots._—It is generally admitted that the carrot is the
most nutritious of all roots. But the great desideratum has been it
takes so much time and patience to raise them, and many have concluded
and howled their conclusions abroad, that (because they did not know how
to raise them) it was an awful job to raise them, and moreover, they
were very uncertain to come up.
No root can be used in so many ways with such grand results as the
carrot. Feed them to the horse and he keeps on much less grain and hay,
drinks less, his coat slickens (and that which makes his coat shine does
him good surely), not so liable to take cold, does not fever up when
standing still. To learn a horse to eat them cut a few very fine and mix
with his oats.
You can with carrots make as fine butter in winter as summer by feeding
them to the cow, or by grating them and squeezing out the juice and
putting it in the cream.
Sheep are very fond of them and fatten fast. Hogs will winter well on
them, better if boiled. With boiled carrots, and one quart of meal per
day, I will make a three hundred stone hog so fat, that a man of
seventy-five years can catch him in an open field. Then for a fine pie
they are first in the catalogue of kitchen vegetables, likewise for
coffee, pickles, soup, &c., &c. A clip from the _Country Gentleman_ by
this Author:
CARROTS VERSUS OTHER ROOTS.—Your correspondent J. V. K., Seneca
Falls, N. Y., wishes a “short account,” &c., about raising
turnips, beets and carrots for dairy use. You have appended some
useful remarks in answer. Please allow me to add a few more. I
have been engaged in root raising to the extent of many hundred
bushels each year for several years, both for my farm stock and
marketing. I have experimented in French turnips, beets and
carrots, and consider the carrot decidedly superior to any other
root. Reasons—Beets require as much labor as carrots—no, say
you, but you do not know my mode of raising carrots yet—they
must needs be transplanted; they wither more after pulling, will
not keep as long, are superior for no stock to the carrot;
horses do not love them; they will not make yellow butter like
carrots; will not make a fine pie like carrots. In consuming
them stock is obliged to eat too much dirt; and more, if you
would have them keep at all good, you must put them away with
much dirt. Not so with carrots, if they are thoroughly dried.
These same remarks are also applicable to the turnip, except
that they are easier raised than either beet or carrot. But even
the beet far surpasses them for milk or fattening; they require
cutting, and then seem to hurt the creature’s mouth. Hogs do not
like them except boiled, and then are not eager for them, while
they can be well wintered with either of the first two. With
boiled carrots and one quart of meal per day, I will fatten a
three hundred stone hog so fat that a man of seventy-five years
can catch him in an open field. Besides, carrots are the
cleanest root (if dug when the ground is dry, as they should
be), and lighter to handle because clean. Therefore, for the
aforesaid reasons I have ignored raising other roots besides the
carrot, except, perhaps, a few French turnips after some early
crop, rather than have the ground go to weeds, and even then I
think perhaps it is better to plant the ground to marrowfat
beans, unless a few turnips are desired for table use. I have
not spoken of field turnips. I always raise what I can of them,
for they don’t cost much, and are not worth much.
A word in regard to the aforesaid idea that “carrots can be
raised easier than any other root.” I find that I can raise one
acre of carrots as easy as two of corn; or at the expense of ten
cents per bushel, believing that the tops for stock will pay for
gathering. In abstracting my mode of raising them, I would say,
that I consider them the most sure of all seeds to come up, if I
can select and manage the seed; that with me I can get them up
in five days after sowing two inches ahead of weeds. I can sow
one and a half acres a day with a boy. I would not take a drill
as a gift. Having so much the start of the weeds, I go among
them with a horse cultivator of my own invention. I dig them
without handling them till they are ready to put into the cart.
In fine I will say, that he who farms without his carrot patch,
ought to be classed among the old fogy farmers of the past
century.
H. A. COOK.
_Hillsdale, Dec. 4, 1865._
_How to raise and clean the Seed._—This, too, is very profitable far
from cities where good land is cheap, for I estimate with proper care
$200 or $300 worth can be grown to the acre. Set them out as early as
the state of the ground will admit, by the use of a crowbar, about two
and a half feet asunder, and hoe them often if you wish nice, plump
seed. Weeds should not be allowed to grow among them, as the heads will
fall down among them and mildew. They should be tied or poled up, as it
will save a large percentage of the heads; never touch the blossoms lest
you blast them, and a false head is the result. When they are all brown
cut them, and lay them away in an upper chamber till a cold, north-wind
day of winter, when lay them upon a tight floor and whip off the seed
(if you have but a small lot) with a pliant stick. Sort out the stalks,
then continue to whip the seed till that little fuzz which adheres to
every seed is entirely separated, then sieve and blow away the chaff as
best you may. Do not attempt to sink them in water, as it will be
fruitless. They are very difficult to clean, yet with care it pays
largely. I would advise any one to change his seed at least every other
year, as they will then grow much more prolific, both as regards raising
the root or seed.
_How to select good Seed._—New seed is of a deep green color, and should
be plump and even in size. Old seed is of a yellowish hue, and dead
cast, and is much longer germinating than new seed. In fine, never sow
old seeds of any kind, because they are always tardy in sprouting. I
have seen carrot seed three years old come and do well, but it was a
great task to keep down the weeds, for the carrots were so long in
coming to the surface. I never practice buying many seeds from the
sixpenny papers found at the stores, for I have no chance to examine
them. They are often old seed, or if not entirely so, a large percentage
almost invariably is old seed.
_A true Saying._—Take care of the weeds, for “one year’s seeding, makes
seven year’s weeding.” This remark should ever be fresh in the
gardener’s mind.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
RAISING CABBAGE.
Next to the carrot crop, I consider that cabbages will, considering the
amount of labor, bring the best and quickest returns if managed
according to the following pages.
In latitude north of 41° but one crop in a season should be attempted,
in which case the “winter drumhead” variety is probably the most
profitable, and the most marketable. In more southern latitudes the
Sugar Loaf and Early York are probably the best early varieties, which
may be succeeded the same season by the winter Drumhead, in which case,
the early variety should be started in the fall in a cold frame, and
haste must be observed in putting in the second crop as soon as the
first will do to go to market. Have your plants ready of a goodly size
for the second sitting.
Select strong ground and manure well, but not with hog manure for this
will cause many club-footed cabbages. My experience is, that it will
effect them thus in a measure even two years after it is put on. Do not
work your ground when it is wet. If you are in Lat. 41° construct a cold
frame (or, as it is often called, a hot bed) as early as the ground will
admit, in which to sow your cabbage seed. Sow in drills that you may
till them somewhat, as every plant of whatever kind should be cultivated
when young, which is a great defect of most cultivators. I have heard
some remark in that latitude that they did not wish to set out their
winter cabbage too early, lest some of them burst before gathering time,
but it is my observation that he who sowed late was troubled more with
false or loose heads in the fall than with burst heads, while he has the
privilege of taking out his heads that get ripe so early as to burst,
and either use or sell them. However, I assert that I can make them head
if the soil will grow them in time.
_Transplanting._—Do not perform this when the ground is wet. _Here_ is
where I differ from all other cultivators. Do not allow an animal or
human being upon the ground when it is wet, if you do, look for hard and
lumpy ground when it becomes dry. Stretch a line across your patch; if
it is sideling, stretch it up and down the slope, so that when you
cultivate the young plants you will not be liable to throw dirt upon
them. Now make a thick solution of water, muck, plaster (plaster of
paris) and ashes, and draw your young plants (about a half dozen at
once) through this solution, when each plant will have a little clump of
mixture adhering to it. Do not dip them directly _down_ into the
mixture, if so the little rootlets will turn up and cleave to the sides,
and not be of any use to the plant when set out, when they are very
essential to its prosperity. The muck and plaster are both adhesive,
drawing moisture and giving strength to the young plant, and causing it
to stand as erect beneath the rays of a midday sun as if it had not been
transplanted, while the ashes not only give strength to the plant, but
have a tendency to keep away the grub that often commits such
depredations among the young plants. Do not allow the sun upon the young
plants during the process of transplanting, nor take up too many at a
time. Let not over a half hour elapse between taking up and setting.
Place them in a pan with care that you do not dirty nor break the leaves
(as they are the lungs of the plant). Let the leaves get a pretty good
size, as the grub has less time to work at them after they are
transplanted.
Now, having stretched your line across the patch, take a sharpened hard
wood stick, one and a half inches diameter, two and a half feet long,
rather bluntly sharpened, that the dirt will not so easily fill the hole
which it makes, and of hard wood that it will not dull easily. Now take
your pan of plants in one hand, and stick in the other, sticking holes
about two feet asunder, and dropping a plant to each hole, while a
faithful boy who is honest to do his duty, and will not curl up the
roots, setting just a little deeper than they were in the bed, and
pinching the bottom of the hole as well as the top firmly about the root
as he sets the plants, the neglect of which will result in the loss of
many plants. In this way, in the middle of a hot day, I have set out
four hundred plants per hour, when two successive hot days followed, and
not over five per cent. of the plants even wilted from the effects of
the sun’s rays. The ground was free from lumps and loose all about the
plants the season through. When gathering time came those which were
thus set out had nearly double the bulk of heads in comparison with
those which were transplanted when the ground was wet.
The main reason was, the little rootlets had mellow ground to push out
into all the season; while lumps and hard ground must abound, especially
on loose ground, to some extent, when the ground is wet enough to
transplant without the composition. But we will not stop to consider the
convenience of transplanting in a dry day rather than a wet one, for
what gardener has not been bedaubed with wet and mud from head to foot
transplanting cabbage. So much then for our compost on the roots. With
beets, tobacco, &c., this compost gives the same result.
Set the line off again two feet and proceed as before. It is not
necessary to have them in rows but one way, that you may go among them
with a horse, but that way have them precisely straight, the utility of
which will become manifest when you come to cultivate. If the grubs eat
them, sprinkle them every third morning while the dew is on with a
little dust of ashes—say a teaspoonful. Where one is eaten off take the
trouble to dig out the grub, or he is liable to take off several
successive ones.
_Tilling._—The plants should be hoed a little about the third morning
after they are set out, and then scratch about them a little every
week—if oftener it’s all the better. Stir the ground deeply, at least
twice with the plow. Till them in the morning, though a bean never
should be tilled in the morning. It is not necessary to go among them
with a horse till the leaves become as large as your hand, when stir the
ground deeply; deep culture is the great desideratum with any good crop.
See to it that you strike the corner of your hoe down deeply beside the
young plants, that the side rootlets may be unobstructed in their
course. Early cabbage may be planted nearer than two feet.
_Heading Cabbage._—The most important part, for a good crop, is yet to
be performed. After having tilled them enough, you can yet make half
difference in number and bulk of heads. You have hoed often and tilled
deeply, which are essential, yea, indispensable to a good growth, while
in the meantime the leaves can be forced to curl up and form the head,
and not retard the growth, but, on the contrary, facilitate it. This is
done by the use of another mixture of salt and plaster, two-thirds of
the former to one of the latter. When the leaves are about half size,
and the inner leaves just commence curling, sprinkle in each plant about
a teaspoonful of the mixture when the cabbages are damp. In about two
weeks sprinkle them again, adding with impunity a little _more_ of the
mixture. Thus, I estimate you will get $10 per day for your time in
applying it, and $5 a quart for your mixture, for it is evident to my
mind that the crop can thus be increased nearly half. If you choose to
have every head lay close to the ground you can do so by commencing with
this mixture early and applying frequently, and hilling up the dirt
slightly. Let the quantity of the mixture generally be governed by the
size of the plant. By a flat culture and withholding the mixture till
the cabbage has its height, you may grow tall cabbage but not the bulk
of heads.
_Cabbage Lice._—During the seasons of 1864 and ’65, it being so dry,
they were great pests. They are of a slate color, with many legs,
greatly inclined to assemblages, and very hardy, for a severe frost does
not seem to harm them. If they are very thick upon a head they will
greatly deter it from heading, and, being very similar to stock lice,
will cause the body to dwindle, and in many cases die from their
effects. Wet weather seems to affect them more even than September
frosts. However, in ordinarily wet seasons, I think they are not much to
be feared. The only way I have ever mastered them was to sprinkle soot
or fine ashes upon them when they were damp. The lye of the ashes is
more than they can stand. The ashes should be finely sifted that no
particles of fine coal, &c., will be found in the head.
_Gathering._—Let them stand (your winter heads) till you fear the ground
will freeze so hard that you cannot pull them. Two inches of frost (that
is, when the ground freezes two inches,) will not hurt the heads if they
remain till the ground has drawn all the frost out. If they are pulled
ere the moisture of the earth has done this complete they will not keep
as well. Winter cabbage will continue to head till late in the fall, if
the weather is not too severe.
Procure a crotchet stick with a long handle (willow wood is best,
because the lightest) and run it under each head, lift it, and turn the
head upside down, hitting the roots with one prong of the crotch to
knock off the dirt, but not so hard as to sever the head from the stump.
If you wish to retain the root this mode of pulling will be a great
saving to the back, if you do not, cut out the heads as you like. But
you need not expect them to keep hard long unless the root is retained.
The leaves and stumps are excellent for stock, being green at a time
when nearly all else is frost-bitten, and will go far in paying for
raising the crop—a half acre bearing many side board loads of fine,
fresh leaves, as refuse from the marketable heads.
Dig a trench the depth of the length of the stem, in which transplant
the loose ones two heads in width and as closely as possible, lengthwise
with the trench, placing a board on each side, simultaneously pressing
the heads together slightly, and cover with straw and dirt securely from
the mice and water. In Spring, if you have not pressed them too hard,
these loose heads will all be hard and as fresh as in autumn. Yet it is
a question in my mind whether they are not worth as much for the cow as
to bury, considering the labor. Do not open them till the frost has left
them, but do it as soon, lest they begin to rot. Like all buried
vegetation they will not keep long after being exposed to the air. It
will not do to transplant hard heads thus, for they are apt to burst.
They should be turned bottom up in the trench and covered as before, in
northern latitudes, but in southern latitudes a dirt covering is
sufficient, leaving the roots to the air. They should never be thrown
promiscuously in the cellar as they will wilt, and then they are poor
food. For winter’s use put the roots in dirt in the cellar, guarding
against mice and rats. A good plan is to put the roots in a tub filled
in with dirt, then you have fresh cabbage at any time. In short,
properly managed, cabbages are a very profitable crop, still they do not
seem to be very exhausting to the soil. Like other garden crops rotation
is necessary. _Remember and not use hog manure for cabbage, lest they
head in the ground._
_Five acres enough._—Thus with five acres of good land well manured, and
planted to carrots and cabbage, tilled and harvested according to the
instructions of this pamphlet, any industrious and saving man, with, or
without a family, may be on the high road to wealth. At the same time he
is not a slave to manual labor, although it will be necessary for him to
be alive spring and fall. There are no two crops of vegetables in more
demand or more sure to yield a good return for labor. Ten years ago the
first man who raised carrots to sell in my town found hard work to sell
twenty bushels at the low price of twenty cents per bushel. Now, say for
the last two years, a neighbor and myself have found a home market for
one thousand bushels at 45 and 60 cents per bushel, although the number
of inhabitants have but slightly increased. The demand is yearly
increasing rapidly, till now many farmers think they cannot winter stock
healthy (verily they cannot) without roots, and have concluded that
carrots are the best root, containing the least per cent. of water,
cleanest to feed, and the lightest to handle. Each property alone is
very essential. A few fed to the horse each day gives him a slick coat,
and that which gives a slick coat gives health, keeps him from catching
cold, and saves much grain and hay. Store hogs can be wintered finely
with carrots without any grain. A few fed to the cow, or a little juice
squeezed into the cream, gives a rich yellowish color to the butter.
Sheep fatten rapidly upon them. Cut up to the size of corn kernels and
browned, they make an excellent coffee. Boiled, and forced through a
cullender, they make a fine pie. For pickles and soup, they are
excellent. In short, there is no vegetable that can be used more
advantageously considering their cost than the carrot.
Here I need not discuss the value of cabbage, for the oldest inhabitant
knows fully of its value as a vegetable, and with the two simple and
accessible compositions, mentioned in the foregoing pages, used in
transplanting and heading, they are very profitable, for with these two
compositions, I aver that I will make twice the bulk of heads per acre
to the man who does not use them, providing he does not bestow any more
labor than I in tilling.
_To make plenty of manure for these vegetables._—This is a great
desideratum in raising vegetables. In gardening five acres I think I
could make my own manure from that alone, and surely if I could have
access to muck, I would plant say four acres to carrots and cabbage (say
I will raise only these vegetables for my selling crop). Now, I should
want for mine and family’s use, a horse, cow and hog, which I should
keep in the following way: I would sow in drills a half acre of corn
thickly for fodder, running through it a little with cultivator and hoe,
to get some ears for to boil with some carrots for my hog, and some for
other uses, perhaps. Now I shall have to buy but very little hay and
grain. I have left one half acre for house, garden and some potatoes.
Now I will keep my horse and cow in stable and yard. Put in twenty loads
of muck under my stables, in my hog pen and barn yard, to catch those
valuable juices which are generally lost (and these are the vitals of
the soil), throwing in all my waste mould, and thereby make about forty
loads of manure, which, applied to the five acres every year, will make
it quite rich enough. How many industrious but poor men, with families,
are cleaving to New York trying to start some little business in which
they may prosper, but can get no chance from the fact that every
conceivable opportunity is taken up. How much better to start out and
lease (if they cannot buy) even a five acre plot, and go to raising
vegetables according to the foregoing pages. Methinks the highway to
success and wealth, with economy and health, would surely appear.
_Every man his own Barometer._—In connection with gardening, it is very
essential that we be able, with a degree of certainty, to foretell the
weather, which, in nine times out of ten we may do about as accurately
as the mercurial barometer, by philosophizing with nature’s laws, and
certain time-honored observations called signs of the weather. I will
notice some of the indications of a storm. The clouds look heavy and red
in the east at early morn. The smoke settles to the ground. You smell
what they are cooking in yonder house. The sun comes forth at sunrise,
giving a white light, and soon disappears in the clouds. “Thunder in the
morning, sailors take warning.” The fowls get on the fence and pick
themselves. The ducks skip in the water. Stock is dainty about eating.
“The fog runs up hopping—the rain comes down dropping.” Tobacco leaves
are limber. Circle around the sun or moon—however, if stars can be seen
in the moon’s circle the storm is in the distance. The sun draws water.
A rainbow in the morning. If it rains when the sun shines, look for a
three days’ rain, and of a surety the next day. The dog eats grass. The
stones under the grass and in the cellar are moist. The outside of the
tin pail or jug sweats, as we say. You observe the smallest cloud to
magnify and grow large rapidly. The leaves of the poplar and cherry
trees turn bottom up. Plenty of snakes are seen running about. The
partridge drums. The mountains look black. You hear voices and noises
unusually plain at a distance. The noise of the car is plain at a
distance. Smoke ushers from the stove into the room. After a storm, if
it clears in nighttime, we may expect a storm soon again. If the
swallows fly near the ground we may expect a storm near at hand. Fish
jump out of the water. Water boils away rapidly. The hair of stock looks
smooth. We smell the skunk—smell the sweat of horses when riding along.
The tree toad hollows. But the best indication of all is the following.
If, upon blowing out your candle at night, the spark goes out quickly,
prepare for a storm and vice versa. With the majority of these signs
before us, and the wind in the South, we had better prepare for a storm.
However, all signs fail in a drouth. But drouths are few and far
between. It is not necessary in this place to philosophize upon these
indications. Yet if the reader is somewhat posted in natural philosophy,
he will have no difficulty in making these indications harmonize with
the laws of nature.
With the supposition that we are now in the midst of a storm in summer,
we will look about to notice some of the fair weather signs. The sky and
sun look red at night. If it rains very early in the morning (not having
rained during the night) generally look for a good day. “If it rains
before seven it will clear before eleven,” is quite a _reliable_ saying.
Whirlwinds are almost sure signs of dry weather. Now the wind gets in
the north, the fog moves southward, and the sun appears but not drawing
water. The lark comes forth with her song, and every piece of nature’s
handiwork seems, as it were, to throw off its shackles of solitude;
cognizant that the king of day will reign, however terrible may have
been the storm. We need not expect much rain when the moon is overhead,
however severe may appear the storm. Thus, by a little careful
observation, we may have a miniature barometer in reason’s temple,
better to be relied upon than all the barometrical mechanism conceived
by the wisdom of man.
_Weather Sayings._—The direction of the wind at the vernal equinox, thus
it will be most of the season. Long icicles indicate deep snows. Three
frosts and then a rain. When the wild geese go north spring is about to
open, a saying only worthy of notice above the 42d° of latitude. A dusty
summer, a snowy winter, which will only appear in northern latitudes. If
winter comes in quietly it will go out boldly. If it storms the first
Sunday of a month it will storm every Sabbath but one, and so with any
other day of the week. Choose full moons for fairs and concerts, &c. Our
heaviest snows come from the northwest. If the first snow goes off with
a rain, all will. So many fogs in February, so many frosts in May, and
about the same day of the month. A winter fog will freeze a dog—that is,
in a few days. A storm will not amount to much when the moon is
overhead. A cold, wet May fills the barn with grain and hay. Thunder in
spring is indicative of cold weather. If chanticleer crows on his roost
at evening, there will be a change in the weather before morning. In
winter, after a storm, the second clear day is the coldest. If grass
grows in March, it will be frozen in May—applicable to northern
latitudes. When the whippoorwill hollows, expect warm weather. The
second of February is Candlemas day. So far as the sun shines in so far
the snow will blow in—applicable to northern latitudes. If it clears off
near two o’clock P. M., we may expect a fair day to-morrow, if at two
o’clock A. M., we had better prepare for another storm. Make ready for a
severe storm at the vernal and autumnal equinox. Weather calculations
are subject to so many variations that no invariable rule or theory can
be established. Yet with a close observation of the foregoing signs and
sayings, we may predict the weather with quite a reliable certainty.
With such a strict observance the farmer and gardener may often save
himself much labor, and save his crops from the exposure of the storm.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
COOK’S PATENT
SPRING WHIFFLETREE
AND
OX SPRING,
BOTH UNDER ONE PATENT.
[Illustration: A spring with a ring on one end and a hook on the other
as well as a bar with a pivot in the center and hooks on either end]
Very useful for balky or discouraged animals, or to prevent breakage of
harness, plows, drags, mowing machines, or any farming implements;
useful for cars, canal boats, &c.
Young horses can now work among rocks as well as old ones.
The driver does not get hurt with the plow handles.
A horse will draw fifty times without being discouraged.
It serves as a cushion for the horse’s breast.
Springs only when striking an obstruction.
Very durable.
This appears like a good improvement.—_Scientific American._
=H. A. COOK=, Patentee.
HILLSDALE, COL. CO., N. Y.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN RAISING CARROTS AND CABBAGE ***
Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will
be renamed.
Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright
law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works,
so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United
States without permission and without paying copyright
royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part
of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project
Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™
concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark,
and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following
the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use
of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for
copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very
easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation
of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project
Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away—you may
do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected
by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark
license, especially commercial redistribution.
START: FULL LICENSE
THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free
distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project
Gutenberg”), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full
Project Gutenberg™ License available with this file or online at
www.gutenberg.org/license.
Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg™
electronic works
1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg™
electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all
the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or
destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in your
possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a
Project Gutenberg™ electronic work and you do not agree to be bound
by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person
or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be
used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few
things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg™ electronic works
even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See
paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project
Gutenberg™ electronic works if you follow the terms of this
agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg™
electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below.
1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the
Foundation” or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection
of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. Nearly all the individual
works in the collection are in the public domain in the United
States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the
United States and you are located in the United States, we do not
claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing,
displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as
all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope
that you will support the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting
free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg™
works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the
Project Gutenberg™ name associated with the work. You can easily
comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the
same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg™ License when
you share it without charge with others.
1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are
in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States,
check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this
agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing,
distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any
other Project Gutenberg™ work. The Foundation makes no
representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any
country other than the United States.
1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other
immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg™ License must appear
prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg™ work (any work
on which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the
phrase “Project Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed,
performed, viewed, copied or distributed:
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
at www.gutenberg.org. If you
are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws
of the country where you are located before using this eBook.
1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is
derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not
contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the
copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in
the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are
redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase “Project
Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply
either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or
obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg™
trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is posted
with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any
additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms
will be linked to the Project Gutenberg™ License for all works
posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the
beginning of this work.
1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg™
License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg™.
1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
Gutenberg™ License.
1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including
any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access
to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg™ work in a format
other than “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official
version posted on the official Project Gutenberg™ website
(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense
to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means
of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original “Plain
Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format must include the
full Project Gutenberg™ License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg™ works
unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
access to or distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works
provided that:
• You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
the use of Project Gutenberg™ works calculated using the method
you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed
to the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, but he has
agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid
within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are
legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty
payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in
Section 4, “Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation.”
• You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™
License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all
copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue
all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™
works.
• You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of
any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of
receipt of the work.
• You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
distribution of Project Gutenberg™ works.
1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project
Gutenberg™ electronic work or group of works on different terms than
are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing
from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of
the Project Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set
forth in Section 3 below.
1.F.
1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project
Gutenberg™ collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg™
electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may
contain “Defects,” such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate
or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other
intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or
other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or
cannot be read by your equipment.
1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the “Right
of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
DAMAGE.
1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you
received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium
with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you
with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in
lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person
or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second
opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If
the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing
without further opportunities to fix the problem.
1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS’, WITH NO
OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT
LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of
damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement
violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the
agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or
limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or
unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the
remaining provisions.
1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in
accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the
production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg™
electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses,
including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of
the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this
or any Project Gutenberg™ work, (b) alteration, modification, or
additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg™ work, and (c) any
Defect you cause.
Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg™
Project Gutenberg™ is synonymous with the free distribution of
electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of
computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It
exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations
from people in all walks of life.
Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg™’s
goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg™ collection will
remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
and permanent future for Project Gutenberg™ and future
generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see
Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org.
Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit
501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
Revenue Service. The Foundation’s EIN or federal tax identification
number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by
U.S. federal laws and your state’s laws.
The Foundation’s business office is located at 809 North 1500 West,
Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up
to date contact information can be found at the Foundation’s website
and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact
Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation
Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without widespread
public support and donations to carry out its mission of
increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest
array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations
($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
status with the IRS.
The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations
where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND
DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular state
visit www.gutenberg.org/donate.
While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
approach us with offers to donate.
International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation
methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other
ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To
donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate.
Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg™ electronic works
Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project
Gutenberg™ concept of a library of electronic works that could be
freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and
distributed Project Gutenberg™ eBooks with only a loose network of
volunteer support.
Project Gutenberg™ eBooks are often created from several printed
editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in
the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not
necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper
edition.
Most people start at our website which has the main PG search
facility: www.gutenberg.org.
This website includes information about Project Gutenberg™,
including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
