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Title: Wrecked on the Feejees
Author: William S. Cary
Release date: August 5, 2023 [eBook #71347]
Language: English
Original publication: Nantucket, Mass: The Inquirer and Mirror Press, 1949
Credits: Steve Mattern, Mary Meehan and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WRECKED ON THE FEEJEES ***
WRECKED ON THE FEEJEES
_Printed on the Island of Nantucket, from which port
William S. Cary sailed on the "Oeno" in 1824._
Experience of a Nantucket man a Century Ago, Who was Sole
Survivor of Whaleship "Oeno" and Lived for Nine Years Among
Cannibals of South Sea Islands.
One of the true tales left to posterity by the hardy
men of Nantucket who went to the far corners of the
earth in search of whales.
_The Inquirer and Mirror Press
Nantucket, Mass._
1949
CONTENTS
I. The Wreck of the "Oeno"
II. Massacre of the Crew
III. Battle Among the Natives
IV. Life with the Feejee Islanders
V. Trading with "Beche de mer"
VI. Cary Makes Trip to Manila
VII. The Return to Nantucket
FOREWORD
This thrilling tale was compiled from the log-book of William S. Cary,
of Nantucket, the sole survivor of the crew of ship "Oeno", which was
wrecked on Turtle Island, in the Pacific Ocean, on the 5th of April,
1825. It was first published in the Nantucket Journal in 1887, in
installments, Cary's journal of his experiences having been discovered
in one of the fish-houses below 'Sconset bank a few years before.
"The Wreck of the Oeno" is a personal description of the loss of a
Nantucket whaleship, the capture and massacre of all but one of the
crew, and the incidents of the life of the survivor among the cannibals
of the South Sea Islands.
The ship "Oeno" was owned by Aaron Mitchell, of Nantucket, and was
commanded by Capt. Samuel Riddell. She sailed from this island early in
November, 1824, and as was usual in those days on account of the bar
at the mouth of Nantucket harbor, went over to Edgartown to load for
sea. The ship then proceeded, via the Cape of Good Hope, to the Bay of
Islands. That was the last heard of her for nearly six years, and it
was thought she had been lost at sea with all on board.
In 1830, however, the owner at Nantucket received a letter from William
S. Cary, one of the crew, bringing the startling information that the
ship had been lost on Turtle Island and that all of the crew had been
massacred by the natives with the exception of himself, and that he was
then living among the islanders.
The "Oeno's" crew consisted of Samuel Riddell, master; William
Shaw, mate; ---- Drew, second mate; three boatsteerers, a cooper, a
carpenter, a cook, and a dozen foremast hands.
Cary's "log" of his experiences is a most graphic description of life
among the Feejee Islanders. His capture and adoption by the king of the
tribe, the life and customs of the natives, his escape and return home,
are all touched upon in detail, the whole story forming one of the most
thrilling tales of the sea ever printed. And the best part of the story
is that it is true.
HARRY B. TURNER.
Nantucket, Mass., May 1, 1928.
WRECKED ON THE FEEJEES
Chapter I
THE DEPARTURE OF THE "OENO"--WRECKED ON TURTLE
ISLAND--CREW TREATED KINDLY BY THE NATIVES.
The "Oeno" set sail at an early hour on the morning of November 4,
1824. The wind was light but fair and the weather pleasant. At 10
o'clock a. m. we discharged the pilot and got the ship snug for sea.
As we neared the Gulf Stream the wind gradually increased, and on
the afternoon of the 5th blew a gale from the northeast, accompanied
by heavy squalls and rain. The ship was hove to under close-reefed
maintopsail, and our green hands experienced for a season all the
agonies of seasickness. The next day, however, the weather moderated
and we made sail and proceeded with a fair wind.
We crossed the line on the 10th of December, and on the 16th sighted
whales and captured three, which yielded 45 barrels of oil. On the
20th we sighted a large whale about half a mile ahead of the ship,
and immediately lowered and fastened to him. He made 55 barrels. We
proceeded on our course for the Cape of Good Hope, in doubling which
we experienced considerable boisterous weather, and shaped our course
for New Zealand. March 17th, 1825, we raised a school of whales and
succeeded in taking four of them, which stowed down 50 barrels.
On the 20th we arrived at the Bay of Islands, where we found the ship
Ann, of London, and bark Pocklington, of Sydney, N. S. W., the latter
seven months out with 700 barrels of oil, and most of her crew sick
with the scurvy. Nothing of note occurred here except that two of the
crew, Henry Gordon and James Furse, deserted and we shipped two English
sailors in their stead, and a native boy.
Having procured wood, water and vegetables, we set sail on the 7th
of April in company with the ship Ann, bound home with 1800 barrels
of oil. We intended to touch at Wallis' island, then proceed to the
Kingsmill group to cruise for whales. We had strong trade winds, and
on the 13th sighted and passed Pylstaat's island, one of the Friendly
Islands. At sundown we shortened sail, by order of the captain who, on
leaving the deck for the night, gave particular orders to the officers
of the watches to have a good look-out kept and to call him immediately
if anything unusual was seen.
In the middle watch (which was in charge of the second mate) between
2 and 3 o'clock a. m., the man at the helm saw white water and spoke
to the second mate, who was sitting in the quarter boat, but he made
no response. On seeing it again the man, who had at first supposed it
to be a fish breaching, became satisfied that it was breakers, and
sung out lustily to the officer, who sprang to the deck, but before a
general alarm could be sounded, the ship struck on a coral reef. All
hands were immediately called and the topsails clewed down. By this
time the sea was making a clean breach over the vessel, and it was
with the greatest difficulty that we could get about the decks, while
nothing could be done to relieve the ship.
Mr. Drew, the second mate, immediately commenced clearing away his boat
preparatory to leaving the vessel. The captain advised him to wait
until daylight, but he persisted in leaving immediately and got clear
of the ship with the boat's crew without accident, and pulled inside
the reef into smooth water.
By the time daylight appeared every hope of saving the ship was
abandoned. We got the starboard boat ready to lower and, watching a
favorable opportunity, got clear of the vessel, narrowly escaping being
swamped by a breaker which half filled the boat. We bailed her out and
pulled into smooth water. Now two boats, with the captain, second mate
and ten men, were safe, leaving the mate, William Shaw, and balance of
the crew remaining on the ill-fated ship, which lay nearly upon her
beam ends, with the sea continually breaking over her, and with only
the weather boat in which to make their escape.
The boat was got ready, and the mate, stationing two men at the falls,
picked the most favorable time and lowered down. The forward tackle was
unhooked, and the boat's head swung around, but the after-tackle fall
got foul and before it could be cleared, a huge breaker rolled the boat
over, precipitating the crew into the water. At the same time the two
men who had been stationed at the falls jumped overboard and all struck
out towards the boats. We pulled up as near as prudent and rescued them
all, though some were badly bruised, and one lad named Barzilla Swain
had his arm broken by a cask before leaving the ship.
Though we were now all clear of the ship alive, it was with heavy
hearts that we gazed back upon the wreck of what had so lately been our
home. Land was in sight about three leagues off, and we headed towards
it but soon found that a reef, forming a sort of hollow square about
three miles long by two wide, enclosed us. We followed the reef around
until we came to an opening through which we all safely passed. The
water inside this reef was perfectly smooth and appeared deep.
Upon getting clear of the reef, we made the best of our way toward the
land, and as we neared the shore, a man came down to the beach. We lay
on our oars and held a brief consultation, but decided it was better to
land and take our chances with the natives than to starve in our boats.
Seeing us hesitating, the man beckoned to us in a friendly manner to
row along the beach, which we did until we came opposite a landing.
Seeing a number of natives sitting in the grass and apparently making
hostile demonstrations, we again paused for consultation. The captain
objected to landing at all and proposed that we make the best of our
way to Wallis' island, where there was a chance of falling in with some
homeward bound whaler. Mr. Shaw, however, urged that the natives showed
no signs of hostility, that what we had taken to be clubs and spears
were nothing more than sugar cane that they had brought down to treat
us with when we landed, and he argued that we could remain here until
the weather moderated sufficiently to get what we wanted out of the
ship to fit our boats, and then go where we liked.
Seeing our hesitation, the natives sent one of the oldest of their
party out in a small canoe. He paddled off until within a few feet of
us but said nothing. We had the New Zealand boy in our boat and the
captain told him to address the native in his language, which he did,
but our visitor did not understand him and soon returned to the shore.
Supposing he was sent off to invite us to land, we concluded to do so.
As soon as the boat touched the beach, Capt. Riddell jumped out, walked
up to the natives, and offered them his hand, but they took no notice
of the friendly greeting, and all rose and made for the boats. The
captain told us to let them take whatever there was in the boats, which
was not much, as he had everything thrown overboard that he thought
would be valuable to them for fear they might quarrel for the plunder
and endanger our lives. They assisted us to haul up our boats and gave
us some of their provisions, which consisted of sugar cane, coconuts,
and a sweet root called mussarway and was very pleasant to the taste.
We offered them some of our bread, but they would not eat it.
Some of the women came down to the landing, looked at us, and returned
to the town. Capt. Riddell took out his watch and placed it to the ear
of a native, who started back with fright and astonishment. He then
opened it and explained to them the use of it as well as he could by
signs and finally presented it to one of the chiefs, who appeared to be
highly pleased with it.
After their curiosity was satisfied, the chief said something to one of
the natives, who started for the town, making signs for us to follow,
which we did. After traveling nearly a mile over a rough stony path,
we arrived at the town, which consisted of about twenty houses. Two of
these we found nicely prepared with mats, one for the officers, the
other for the crew.
It appeared that there had been at some previous time more people on
the island, as there were two villages of about twenty houses each,
but only one was now occupied. The houses were built by setting posts
in the ground, leaving them about six feet high and connected with
rafters about twenty feet long. The roofs were thickly thatched with
long grass, while the sides and ends were covered with reeds neatly
bound on with rivets made from coconut husks. We found there were only
about twenty-five inhabitants then on the island--some fifteen men and
boys, the rest females. The men were large and well formed, of a dark
color, some almost black. Their only covering was a strip of matting
made from the bark of a tree twisted and wound several times around
their bodies. The women wore about their waist a similar covering
stained with different colors.
When we took possession of our new quarters it was about one o'clock
p. m. The natives left us soon after and returned in the course of
a couple of hours with baskets of cooked vegetables consisting of
yams, tarrow packarlolo (a sort of pudding made of tarrow and coconut
milk) and a kind of potatoes. They laid the food down at the door and
repeated some words over it, then brought it in and made signs for us
to eat, while they stood by watching us with interest, but not being
very partial to our new diet, we soon finished the meal.
Several of us then started on a stroll about the island with some of
the natives in search of water, which we found only in the hollow
rocks, there being no pond or spring on the island; hence we were
wholly dependent on the clouds for water, but we found coconuts,
bananas, and a few bread fruit trees, also excellent fish in abundance.
We found we were on Turtle island, one of the Feejees, two miles long
by one and a half wide, and surrounded by coral reefs. The island was
broken and rocky but fertile and thickly wooded.
After our return the natives came and spent the evening with us, sung
a song or two and evidently employed all their arts and powers of
pleasing to reconcile us to our condition, and in return only wanted
their curiosity gratified by watching our movements and examining
our clothes and other things which we had brought on shore. When
the natives left us we laid down on the mats and slept at intervals
until daylight, when we mustered all hands to go off to the ship for
clothing, provisions, etc., but we found that some of the natives were
ahead of us.
Capt. Riddell started first in hopes to get firearms, but found the
natives had secured them, and had loaded their canoes with whatever
suited their fancy. They brought their plunder on shore and buried it.
Our boats, which did not return till late in the afternoon, brought
some clothes, bread, salt provisions and liquor, but found only one
chest on board. What the natives did with the others we never knew.
They continued their visits to the ship every day, taking out whatever
suited their fancy. They could get off with canoes when it was not
prudent to go with our boats. Some of us would frequently accompany
them and pick up whatever we thought might be useful to us.
On the 15th, it being moderate, we went off and secured the spare
boat, which was still uninjured. By this time we had nearly all out of
the ship which would be of use to us, and seldom visited her. She had
turned completely round, and begun to break up.
The natives were friendly and endeavored, by every kindness in their
power, to make our situation as pleasant and comfortable as possible,
furnishing us of their provisions in abundance, with which, and our
ship provisions, we lived well. The natives generally spent their
evenings with us and seemed to enjoy our company very much. Thus ten or
eleven days passed without anything occurring to affect our pleasant
relations with them. Capt. Riddell thought that after the full of the
moon we should have moderate winds, and then we calculated to start for
the Friendly Islands in our boats, which we intended to put an extra
streak on, to better fit them for a sea voyage.
But the morning we had intended to commence operations, we were much
alarmed by seeing a fleet of about twenty canoes approaching the
island, with warlike demonstrations. Capt. Riddell went down to the
beach and met the party, who were a frightful looking set, being
hideously painted with red and black, and all armed with spears and
clubs. The chief and Capt. Riddell walked up ahead, the rest of the
party, numbering about eighty, following in single file.
They were all large sized men, many of them fully six feet tall.
They wandered about the town a while, getting a good meal which the
islanders had cooked for them. One of the party, apparently a young
chief, sat down beside me and began talking, but finding none of us
could understand him, he left us, seemingly much disappointed. The
visitors showed no signs of hostility nor disposition to meddle with
anything, but contented themselves with looking at us, and finally
retired to their canoes for the night.
The next day they came to our house and seemed so friendly that our
alarm quite wore off. Before leaving for the night, however, they were
particular to ascertain our number. The following day they came up to
town as usual, but there was a marked difference in their conduct. They
began taking many liberties, which they knew would be offensive to us,
and one of them came into our house, took some articles of clothing and
was about making off with them when one of our crew took them away and
helped him out of the house. This treatment he did not at all relish.
He took his club and beat the ground most furiously, and expressed his
displeasure by every possible gesture. One of our boys had on a red
cap, which a native seized and made off with. The boy cried bitterly
for the loss, when the fellow returned and gave it back. It seemed as
though they were trying all ways in their power to provoke us to do
something which would justify them in declaring war upon us. They were
continually stealing everything they could lay their hands on, which
made repeated quarrels with the least consideration of the crew.
Capt. Riddell took every opportunity to advise us not to use force and
let them take everything they wanted, and gave his advice for our own
good as well as his own, as we were without arms and wholly at the
mercy of the savages. Well would it have been for the crew had they
heeded the advice of our worthy captain. The inhabitants of the island
continued to treat us kindly. They at one time brought us some yams.
While we were eating them one of the visitors put his hand in the dish
to take out a piece, when one of our crew rapped his knuckles, telling
him to keep his black paws out of the victuals. This so enraged him
that he went out of the house, got his club and beat the ground, using
many threatening gestures. It is my belief that if the captain's advice
had been strictly followed, and we had let them take whatever they
chose without resistance, they would have left without molesting us.
But through the inconsiderate conduct of such no doubt the lives of
many valuable men were sacrificed.
The next day we made an ineffectual attempt to get to the ship, and
on our return to the town we met a number of the savages who were the
most troublesome, swinging their clubs as though preparing for battle.
In the house where we lived all the spears and clubs belonging to the
islanders were deposited. These they contrived to carry off, as they
thought, unperceived by us. I was sitting in the house alone reading
and observed the manoeuvers, which excited my fears, and I told my
companions that I believed they would attack us that night. Some of
them shared my apprehensions, others only laughed at my fears. The
officers were fully satisfied of their design, but could do nothing to
avoid it. That night I decided not to remain in the house, but went
into the woods and slept in a cave. The night passed, however, with no
hostile demonstration.
The next day Capt. Riddell, Mr. Shaw, Mr. Drew, myself and two or three
of the crew were assembled in a look-out house on top of a rock, when
one of the islanders came in with a most sorrowful countenance, as
though he had something dreadful to communicate, looked at us a few
moments, and then left without saying a word. I have no doubt but he
came to warn us of what was going to be done, but that his heart failed
him. The previous morning one of the islanders brought to our house in
the valley six or seven spears and threw them in. It appeared as though
they wished to aid us all in their power.
Soon after this kind savage left us, we heard a great shout in the
valley below. The captain started to his feet in alarm and hurried
out of the house, the rest of us following him. When we got down off
the rock all but myself took the path that led to the town. I took a
by-path that led across the island, well knowing what was going on in
the town. A Sandwich Island boy followed me a short distance, then
turned back. When I started I left Capt. Riddell standing at the foot
of the rock. Which way he went I never knew. We parted, never to meet
again.
Chapter II
THE MASSACRE OF THE CREW--CARY PROTECTED BY
CHIEF--A FEEJEE FESTIVAL--CARY MEETS A WHITE MAN.
I continued on this path, sometimes running as fast as I could, then
I would stop not knowing where it led, and every moment expecting to
encounter a native, until at length I reached the beach on the opposite
side of the island. I followed along the shore until I came to a rock
upon which I climbed, but could find no place of concealment so got
down, and continued on until I came to another. This I climbed and on
the top I found an opening leading into a large cave, which I entered
and crawled into a crevice, not daring to go far from the mouth of the
cave as it was so dark I could not see where it led. I threw down a
stone and it sounded as though it fell forty or fifty feet.
The crevice in which I stowed myself was just big enough to admit me,
and about ten or twelve feet from the mouth of the cave. During the
night I heard the natives talking and heard their spears dragging over
the rock. I had no doubt but that they were in search of me, so I kept
very quiet, hardly allowing myself to breathe. I scarcely entertained a
hope for life, well knowing that if I left the cave the natives would
kill me, and if I stayed I should eventually starve.
Here I lay some six or seven hours endeavoring to decide upon some
course of action, but without doing so I fell asleep, and slept at
intervals until daylight. I then crawled out very cautiously upon the
rock, being anxious to ascertain what had become of the crew. I thought
it possible that the lives of some of them might be spared. I climbed
a tree, to see if I could discover anything of the natives, but there
were none in sight, so I ventured to walk along the beach until I
came to the landing. The boat was there, but from the appearances I
concluded the crew had all been killed, as there were many tracks in
the sand and the beach was broken up and had evidently been the scene
of a severe scuffle. I searched around until I found a place which had
evidently been dug over. I scooped away a few inches of sand with my
hand and came to the face of a man. I uncovered one other, but could go
no further.
Sick at heart and almost famished, I started back toward my hiding
place, scarcely knowing which way I went or what to do. I found a few
raisins in the boat, which I ate as I went along. These, with a green
coconut which I got in the morning and drank the milk of, was all I
had eaten for two days, but was just enough to make me determined to
live as long as I could and keep out of sight of the savages. I had now
abandoned all hope that there was any of our crew left. Sometimes I
would think I might as well give myself up to the natives as to remain
in the cave and starve, for there was nothing that I could get to eat
or drink, without great risk of being discovered, which I considered
certain death.
On the third day I decided that I could stand it no longer and keep
strength enough to be able to climb out of my cave, so I crawled out on
the rock, took a look around, and as I did not see anything, I thought
I would venture down to the shore and bathe. When I reached the shore I
saw a party of women off fishing, near the reef. They soon discovered
me and immediately started for the town, and I returned to my cave. I
had not been there long when I heard voices. I looked out and saw two
men evidently in search of me. I felt extremely loath to give myself
up to be butchered, but my determination to live had been very much
weakened, so intense had become my sufferings from hunger and thirst.
After looking at them awhile I decided to come out and end the
suspense, so I crawled out in sight. They immediately started for me,
one armed with a boat hatchet, the other with a knife. I sat down in
the path with my back towards them, expecting to have the hatchet
driven into my head, and not wishing to see the blow. They walked
up until within a few feet of me, then stopped and looked at me a
moment before they spoke. It seemed an hour. I looked around when one
of them, an old man, a resident of the island and one with whom I had
previously been on very good terms, addressed me kindly and wished me
to go to the town with them. I sprang up and followed with alacrity,
almost forgetting my thirst, but after we got off the rock, I made them
understand I was very hungry and thirsty. We soon came to a coconut
tree, when one of them procured a coconut, broke it, and gave me to
drink, which greatly refreshed me. After we got to the town, the old
man, who was a chief, carried me to his house and gave me as much fish
and vegetables as I wanted. At dark he led me to a small hut in the
woods where we spent the night.
The next morning we went back to the town to get some breakfast. We had
not been in the house long when about twenty of our visitors came in,
seated themselves, and began questioning me by signs to know if there
were any axes or tools of any kind on board the ship. I told them I
believed there were, thinking it might draw their attention from me.
They remained awhile in animated conversation of which I concluded I
was the subject, then left me in care of the old chief's wife, and went
to the landing, launched their canoes, and started for the ship. They
had not been gone long when another gang came toward the house. My old
mistress on hearing them, said something, beckoned me to get behind
her, which I did. They came up to the house, asked some questions and
took their leave, much to my relief. But they had not done with me yet.
Late in the afternoon the savages returned from the ship, after an
unsuccessful search for tools. They mustered all their party together
in the lower town, and sent up one of their number after me. He came to
the house and ordered me to follow him. On my showing some reluctance
to obey, he seized me in no gentle manner and shoved me out of the
house, so I put the best face on and followed him down to the town, or
rather he followed me, keeping me ahead of him in the path.
When we came to the town I was horrified to see the savages all
painted and armed similar to what they were at their first landing,
but looking much more frightful to me. They all stood in a circle,
and seated me in the center on the ground. My old friendly chief was
sitting a short distance from the circle repairing some of the rigging
to his canoe, to all appearances wholly unconcerned as to what was to
be done with me. One of them went to him and asked him some questions,
which he answered without even raising his eyes from his work. This was
repeated several times.
After about an hour spent in consultation, during which the chiefs of
the party appeared perfectly cool, but the common people manifested
considerable excitement, swinging their clubs and looking as though
they would like to have a crack at me, they all left and went to their
canoes.
The old chief immediately came to me and spoke kindly, but I could not
understand a word he said. He made me understand, however, that I was
now his son, and as such he treated me all the time I remained with him.
The next day our visitors left, much to our satisfaction. I say our,
as the islanders were no more fond of their company than I was, and I
believe as much regretted what had been done as if it had been part of
their own tribe that had been killed. I several times endeavored to
learn some particulars in regard to the massacre, but they did not wish
to talk about it and would only say that they had nothing to do with
it. I did not understand their language and could only learn from them
what they were disposed to tell me by signs.
I stayed here about a week longer, treated with the greatest kindness,
when one day two large canoes were seen coming toward the island, which
filled the natives with alarm. They ran to the town, collected all
the property which they had gotten out of the ship and buried it in
the woods. Seeing I was frightened they told me the canoes were from
Lahcameber, and were friendly to white men, and not at all like the Ono
men (our other visitors).
They soon landed and came up to the town. One of them seized me by
the arm, and directly another came and took me by the other arm. The
last one was a native of the Friendly Islands and much lighter than
the Feejees. They were both chiefs and after disputing some time as to
who had the best right to me, the Friendly Islander relinquished his
claim and, to my surprise, addressed me in English, bidding me good
morning. I returned his friendly salutation, after which my new master
introduced me to their head chief who, I learned, was his brother. This
chief was also brother to the head chief of Lahcameber. His name was
Toka and he was a very amiable man. He immediately took me with all my
possessions under his protection and made me understand that if any of
his men offered to molest or rob me, he would correct them.
After Toka had got through with me, the Friendly Islander inquired what
ship it was that was lost on the reef, and what had become of the crew.
I told him it was the ship Oeno of Nantucket, and that all of the crew
but myself had been massacred by a party from Ono. He shook his head,
saying they were very bad. He then asked if the islanders had any of
the plunder out of the ship and if there were any muskets. I told him
they had secreted their plunder on seeing the canoes, and that the
chiefs of the island had what muskets the Ono people had not got away
from them. He said his party would get the whole or destroy the town,
and if the inhabitants offered any resistance they would kill them all.
The next morning they commenced abusing the poor islanders shamefully
and made them bring forward all the plunder they had got from the ship.
My new master was armed with a four-pronged spear. He gave me a musket
and kept me close by his side. I thought at first from their movements
that they would destroy the whole town, but after they had secured all
the plunder from them they retired to their canoes and did not trouble
them more.
My old master was very sorry to lose me but did not dare to say a word.
I certainly felt a pang of regret at leaving him, as he had probably
saved my life and had always treated me with the greatest kindness. The
Tongataboo chief was anxious that I should stop with him and go to
Tongataboo with him, telling me that there were many missionaries there
and plenty of ships came there, but I preferred continuing with my new
master. I found these people were collecting tribute for the chief of
Lahcameber from the islands which were tributary.
The next morning we set sail from Turtle Island and steered for Ono, I
being in the canoe with the chief, and arrived the following morning.
The natives were expecting us, it being the time for their annual visit
to collect tribute, and had large quantities of provisions cooked and
all things prepared for their annual feast. All the inhabitants of the
island seated themselves in a large circle leaving an opening through
which our party passed to the center, each one carrying a bundle of
tappah cloth, which I found was intended for a present in token of
respect and friendship. When they got inside the ring our chief stood
in the center with the rest of the party around him, each one having
a spear in his hand. These they commenced brandishing in the air,
accompanying their movements with sundry antics and gestures which at
first alarmed me, thinking they were hostile demonstrations, but I soon
perceived it was only a kind of dance which was always performed on
such occasion.
At the conclusion of the dance they threw down their spears and cloth
and retired to a house prepared for us, after which the natives divided
our presents among the chiefs, each one taking a share according to his
rank. When this was settled they brought us the provisions they had
prepared and presented them with a great deal of ceremony, then left
us to feast upon them, which we did with good appetites. We remained
here some ten or twelve days receiving tribute, which consisted of
tappah, sinnet, oil and mats, and sometimes a few whales' teeth, which
is the most valuable article they have among them. By this time we had
received all they had to give, so took our leave of them and proceeded
to Lahcameber, stopping on our way at Turtle Island and several others.
On the third day we arrived at Lahcameber. The landing was thronged
with natives of both sexes, who received us with great joy. I was
dressed in the Feejee costume (that is, no dress at all--only a strip
of cloth around my body). I was accompanied to the palace, which was
about half a mile from the landing, by the multitude, who gazed at me
with much curiosity. The king's residence was situated in the center
of the town, with a large square in front of it, neatly fenced in with
reeds. The houses were neatly built, similar to those at Turtle Island.
I was led into the palace and found the king entertaining a party,
with a kind of drink called carver. I was presented to the king and a
Friendly Island chief, who could talk some English, through whom the
king inquired who I was and where I came from. I gave him the full
particulars of the loss of the ship and the massacre of the crew. He
then offered me a cup of carver, which I dared not refuse, although
my stomach loathed it, and it was with much difficulty that I kept it
down. This beverage is made from a root. It is first chewed by the
natives. Each person except the chief takes a piece of the root and,
after chewing it sufficiently, spits it into a wooden bowl. It is then
mixed or kneaded with the hands, a little water added, and strained
through the thin bark of the coconut tree, when it is ready for use. It
is then poured into coconut shells and handed round, each one having
a shell of his own. After drinking heartily of it, it leaves them in
a kind of stupor, similar to the effect of opium. Disgusting as this
beverage was to me at first, my repugnance gradually wore away and
after a while I could drink it with as good a relish as I can now
swallow a glass of beer, though as I look back it makes my stomach turn
to think of it.
After our visitors departed, the king, with the aid of the Tongataboo
chief, asked if my chief at home would send out an armed vessel to
punish those savages who had killed the crew and I told him I thought
he would. He then wanted to know if I could clean his muskets--he had
seven which came out of the Oeno which were very rusty. I told him yes,
so he brought me some tools and I took them to pieces, he watching me
all the time with considerable interest. After I had cleaned them and
put them together, he expressed his satisfaction as well as he could by
signs, frequently repeating the word caloo, saying if I had not have
been a spirit I would have shared the fate of the rest of the crew.
The king then requested me to fire them, which I did several times,
loading and firing as fast as I could, which frightened them very
much. They all fell at every discharge as though they had been shot.
The king then invited me to eat with him. The food was brought in a
dish made from the leaf of a coconut tree, and consisted of yams and
tarrow. I was seated beside the king. One of his wives brought in a
large earthern pot of boiled fish, and six female attendants were in
readiness to wait on us. One sat by the king to feed him and another
was appointed to feed me. I at first objected to being fed, but the
king insisted on my conforming to his rules as I was his son and ought
to do just as he did, so rather than displease him I submitted. The
water in which the fish was boiled was dipped out in coconut shells
which were held to our mouths to drink. The fish was then taken out in
a wooden dish and divided equally. While eating, all present held a
green leaf in their hands, as a token of respect to the king. When the
repast was finished all clapped their hands, repeating the word Hamdoo,
which means give thanks to the king. A basket of coconuts was then
brought in and each one treated to a share of the milk. The men having
finished, the women were allowed the fragments. The women are never
allowed to eat with the men.
The next day, after walking around the town and satisfying my
curiosity, the king asked me to accompany him shooting and I, of
course, accepted. We were accompanied by three of the natives and
shot a few wild pigeons and a number of sea fowl which we found in
abundance. Having no clothes on I was badly sunburnt and had a very
sore back for a long time. Sea fowl were very plentiful about the
shores and fish of excellent quality abounded around the island. These
were caught by the women mostly, who were very expert, but the men
considered it beneath their dignity.
Preparations were now making for a grand feast. The king sent people
out in all directions to collect and cook yams, tarrow and all kinds
of vegetables, also pigs, fowl, etc. The natives brought provisions
from all parts of the island and deposited them on one side of a
square before the king's house and retired to the other side to await
the performance which was about to take place by visitors from the
Friendly and Navigator Islands. They collected provisions enough for
two or three thousand people, and when several thousand spectators had
assembled, the king, with me by his side, was seated on an eminence
built of stone on one side of the square. After all was arranged the
actors made their appearances in two parties and took their stations
in the square about twenty-five or thirty feet apart. One of them then
stepped out into the open square and, brandishing a coconut stalk in
his hand, challenged anyone to come out and fight him. His challenge
was promptly accepted by a young native from the same party and a smart
fencing match ensued. At last one gave up and the conqueror was greeted
with shouts of applause by the spectators. Two others then took their
places and so the sport went on. After one party had their turn the
other came on and fought with their fists muffled with tappah, which
seemed to delight the spectators quite as much as the club fight. They
frequently shouted Wooa venaka! Suka venaka! (Very well done. Thank
you, sirs!) After about two hours of this exercise one of them used
some unfair play, which so enraged all parties that they flew to their
clubs and spears, and I expected to see something besides a sham fight;
but the king jumped from his throne, rushed into the midst of them and
quelled the disturbance. They then seated themselves and the provisions
were shared amongst them. After feasting they left us, some badly
bruised and many with broken limbs.
When all had become quiet the king and myself, accompanied by his
life guard and servants, went to a pond of fresh water to bathe. When
the king leaves his palace he is always accompanied by his guard who
goes ahead to inform all whom they may meet of his approach, as all
are required to bow down until he has passed. They pay great respect
to the king, whom they reverence as a superior being guarded by the
spirits of his forefathers. This they are caught by the priests, called
Umbaty, whom the king always consults before undertaking a voyage or
any enterprise. The old priest (for they are always very old) commences
shaking himself until every part of his body is in motion, pretending
meanwhile to be talking to the spirits. He then takes a stalk with two
or three coconuts on it brought to him by the king and beats it on the
mats. If the fruit comes off easily it is a good omen, but if not the
king postpones his undertaking till a more favorable time. After the
Umbaty gets through with his ceremony he takes a drink of sea water
which stops his shaking and drives the spirits out of the house.
While I was on this island we were visited by a party of chiefs from
Ambow, bringing with them six or seven Manila men--mutineers from
a Manila brig. They had killed the captain and officers and given
themselves up to the natives at Ambow. I inquired if there were any
Europeans in the brig. They told me there were three. One came from
the Ladrone Islands and left the vessel before the mutiny. The others
acted as interpreters for the captain and came near sharing his fate,
but were protected by some of the crew who were not so bad as the
ringleaders.
During their stay the king kept me close by him for fear they would
entice me away. I was very anxious to go, but the king told me he was
going to Ambow in a few days and I should go with him. The visitors
came to invite us to go to a great feast which was preparing at Ambow,
and in a few days they returned home in their canoes.
We now commenced preparations for our voyage. Messengers were
dispatched to every part of the island to inform the different chiefs
that the king was going to Ambow, and that they must send all the
coconut oil, tappah, and whales' teeth they could produce for presents
to the king of Ambow. Twenty large canoes were fitted for the voyage,
and when all was ready the king went down to the squadron escorted
by a large party of chiefs and subjects, five of his wives bringing
up the rear and bearing with them the mats to sleep on and cooking
utensils. We set sail with a fine breeze, made our passage through the
reef which surrounds the islands, into the open ocean, and steered for
the island of Emwaller, where we arrived about sunset and anchored near
the shore. The king and myself slept on the shore. The inhabitants
brought down yams, tarrow, pacalcolo and pigs which were divided among
the occupants of the canoes, a separate share being set aside for the
king and myself. The pig being rare done we built a fire, broiled it,
and made a very hearty meal. The next morning we got under way and
steered for the island of Engow, where we arrived, with the aid of
our paddles, before sunset and anchored as before, which was done by
sticking an ironwood pole into the sand, and making fast a rope with a
running bowline that it might slip down to the bottom. Where the bottom
is rocky they dive down and make the end of the rope fast to a rock or
piece of coral. Here we received the same friendly treatment as at the
other island, and the next morning steered for the island of Motosick,
where we arrived in the afternoon. This island is about fifteen miles
from Ambow.
Soon after our arrival here I saw a canoe coming from Ambow, in which
was a white man. As they came alongside our canoe the white man reached
out his hand and addressed me by name. I was dumb with astonishment.
At last he said, "don't you know David Whippey?" "Yes," I answered,
"I formerly knew him. He was a townsman of mine and an old playmate."
"Well," said he, "I am that David Whippey."
Chapter III
CARY LEARNS FACTS ABOUT "CHARLIE"--A BATTLE AMONG
THE NATIVES--THE MURDER OF THE KING.
My joy at this unexpected meeting was unbounded. It was now about a
year since I had seen a white man. David inquired how I came there and
I briefly told him my story. He said he had seen casks and pieces of
boats which he had called American, and concluded that a ship had been
wrecked on some of the weather islands. In his turn he told me his
story. He had left the brig Calder some thirteen months before, bearing
presents from the captain to the king of Ambow, together with a request
that he collect all the turtle shell he could, the captain promising
to return in a few months and trade with him for it. But now the time
was so long that he had given up all hope of seeing the brig again.
In fact, he had no desire to leave the island, as he was a particular
favorite with the king and chiefs and was a chief himself. He informed
me that there were two other white men who lived with him; one came
in the Manila brig, the other had lived at the Feejees ten or twelve
years. The king of Ambow valued the white men highly, as they had
previously been troubled very much by the mountaineers coming down and
committing depredations on the sea-coast villages. They were very much
afraid of the white men's muskets, however, and had not troubled them
since they had been with them.
It being near night and David's chief being anxious to get to the
island of Ovalau, about seven miles distant, he took leave of me,
expecting to meet me again at Ambow. We then landed and hauled up our
canoes as our king had received intelligence that the king of Ambow was
not quite ready for us, having to repair some houses for our reception,
which had been partially burned a short time before. The inhabitants
of this island brought us provisions in abundance, of which we ate
heartily and then retired for the night. We spent three days here,
and on the fourth launched our canoes and made sail for Ambow, where
we arrived about ten o'clock in the forenoon and anchored, when the
natives painted themselves, dressed and tied large bundles of tappah on
their backs, as presents for the king.
When all was prepared we cast off and headed for the landing. When
within speaking distance the natives saluted each other by shouting
"Dohoah". (This word is used only to kings and chiefs.) Directly the
queens came down to welcome our queens and escort them to the house
prepared for their reception. They were very tastefully ornamented with
most beautiful and fragrant flowers, and formed a line at the water's
edge, repeating the word "myinafuandooa", which is the salutation for
the queens. We then landed and proceeded to the house prepared for us,
the king and his chiefs taking with them the loads of presents which,
after some ceremony, were presented to the king.
The next morning I met David Whippey again, who came to invite me to
the island on which he lived (Ovalau). We passed the day and evening
very agreeably at my king's house. The chiefs, hearing of my intended
visit with David, desired me to return as soon as possible. They had
become very much attached to me and desired to have me in sight always,
yet their kindly feeling toward me would not let them refuse me any
liberty I wanted. I had always made it a rule never to oppose them and
thus had got their perfect good will. The natural disposition of these
natives is good and they possess kind feelings for those whom they
like; they also possess strong passions and when enraged are savage
beyond description and would kill anyone who displeased them with as
little compunction as civilized people would kill a rat.
David spent the night with me and the next morning we started for
Ovalau. This island was very much like the rest of the group,
mountainous, well wooded, with plenty of water. A considerable portion
was under cultivation. It also abounded with beautiful flowers of
the most exquisite fragrance and all kinds of tropical fruits grew
in profusion. The natives seemed very friendly. Here I spent three
days very pleasantly and then returned to Ambow to my king, who was
delighted to think I had come back so soon, but when I told him that I
was going to stop with the king of Ambow, he was exceedingly sorrowful
and used every argument he could to induce me to return to him. I told
him, however, that I was anxious to get home and I thought my chances
here would be better than at his island. He still insisted that I had
better go home with him, and so it proved, for there was a ship touched
at his island shortly after his return. Though he had the power to
force me to go with him, he would not compel me to return against my
will, and when I bade him good-bye he took me by the hand and said:
"William, I am very sorry you are going to leave me. I shall be very
lonesome when I go home without you, but I shall always be your friend
and you will know where to find me." So we parted.
I then went to the king of Ambow and told him I intended to stop with
him, which pleased him very much. He said he was father to all white
people who came to stop with him, and so long as I was under his
protection no one would dare molest me. He told me "Charlie" stopped
a great many years with him, was a great warrior and conquered all
the islands. I inquired of some of the white men who Charlie was and
found that he was a white man who was cast away in the brig Eliza,
of Providence, on the island of Nivy, about fifty miles northeast
of Ambow. The rest of the brig's crew were taken off, but Charlie
preferred stopping among the natives and came to Ambow, bringing with
him three or four muskets and all the ammunition he could procure. When
he arrived at Ambow he was a great wonder to the natives, being the
first white man they had ever seen. The women and children were very
much afraid of him and thousands of the inhabitants came to view him.
He had not been here long before war was declared against one of
the neighboring towns, and an army was raised to go against them.
Charlie applied to the king for permission to go with them and use
his muskets, and after much persuasion was allowed to do so. When the
attack commenced Charlie singled out one of the enemy's chiefs and, as
he raised his spear to dart, he levelled at him and shot him dead. The
natives, hearing the report of the musket and seeing their chief fall,
immediately fled in the greatest confusion, the Ambow people following
and killing all who came within their reach. They plundered the town,
set fire to it, and marched home in triumph without the loss of a man.
The king then made him head chief, giving him command of the whole
tribe, and he conquered the entire group, but he was very severe with
the natives and would shoot them for the most trivial offenses. Charlie
was finally killed in a battle at the town of Uylah.
I remained at Ambow six or seven months and during this time made
several excursions with them against their enemies to different parts
of the island and to other islands. The inhabitants of the mountains
and the sea coast are most always at war with each other. The
mountaineers are very wild and savage, and often attack an unprotected
town and massacre or make prisoners of all the inhabitants. The
prisoners they eat. On one of these excursions to the island of Coroo,
in one day we took and burned seven villages. We had to march over
rocky mountains and through almost impassable woods. I was excessively
fatigued. At night we had sentinels stationed round our encampment and
the natives were drumming and singing most of the night, so that I
slept but very little.
At daylight we continued our march through dense woods, over rocks
and hills, until we arrived before the town of Angarmy, which we were
going to attack. This was a large place and had a strong fence around
it. Our army was composed of about 4,000 warriors, of whom about 100
had muskets. Before we commenced the attack our army was drawn up in
a circle, and the head chief entered the circle with a bunch of reeds
about ten inches long. Immediately all was silent. He gave a piece
of reed to each tribe, and at the same time addressed a few words of
encouragement, telling them that the town must be taken and each man
must fight well and do his duty.
After this, one of the chiefs of each tribe ran towards him, holding
his club over his head, saying: "This is the club for the enemy". After
this ceremony they divided into parties so as to attack several places
at once. As soon as we drew near enough the enemy attacked us with
arrows and showers of stones. We then opened fire with the muskets,
which frightened them so that they made offers of peace, offering all
their whales' teeth and the chief's daughter, but their offers were
declined, and when they found we were going to storm the town they fled
to the woods. We entered the town and killed forty of the inhabitants.
One man climbed a coconut tree to secrete himself. He was soon
discovered and fired upon, but they did not kill him. The tree was then
cut down by order of the chief, and the poor fellow was soon dispatched.
We then marched down to our canoes, taking with us five or six female
prisoners and some of the dead bodies for a cannibal feast after we
got home. The next morning we set sail and proceeded to Ovalau, where
we stopped for the night, and the following noon arrived at Ambow.
Before landing, all the young chiefs who had killed some of the enemy
for the first time painted themselves red and black and each one had a
staff with as many strips of white cloth fastened to the end as he had
killed enemies. They then landed and marched up to the priest's house,
where all the old chiefs and priests had assembled. They presented
their staffs to the priests, who stuck them up near the house to remain
as long as they lasted. The dead bodies were also carried before the
priest and songs of victory sung over them, after which they were
divided among each tribe.
In accordance with their custom, the young warriors did not enter any
house for several days and nights for fear of offending the spirits.
They believed that if they did not observe this ceremony they would
be killed in the next battle. At night they formed a circle, marching
round and round, singing and shouting, taking it watch and watch half
at a time. After three or four days they washed off their paint and
were at liberty to do as they pleased, believing then they would be
protected by their gods in all future wars.
A short time after this we were visited by a tribe of natives from
Raver, who came in two large double canoes, loaded with tarrow as a
present for the king. These natives were the finest looking and most
intelligent appearing of any I had ever seen. I took a fancy to go to
their island with them and make a visit, so I asked the chief to carry
me and he readily consented. I then went to the king and told him of
my intended visit. He gave me liberty to go, but requested me to be
sure to return. The next morning we started and soon arrived there, it
being only about seven or eight miles from Ambow. I found it a most
delightful place situated on the banks of a fine large river. I was
much pleased with the place and the people, and concluded to make it my
home for a while, so I applied to a young chief (brother to the king)
and told him I should like to stop with him. He seemed much pleased and
told me to take the choice of his houses, of which he had three. I took
one which was occupied by one of his wives (he had five) and lived here
very comfortably, the chief's wife treating me with great kindness.
This chief had several brothers, all great warriors; the oldest was
king, but the others wanted to be, so they got up a little conspiracy
and declared war on him. He was too strong for them, however, so they
made peace with him and went to Ambow. At this time all had been
quiet for a year. One day, in company with a Manila man, I went down
to a small island about three miles distant, fishing. We had rather
indifferent luck and concluded to stop all night. Before morning news
came to us that the king had been shot by one of his brothers who came
from Ambow in a small canoe. It being a rainy, squally evening, he
succeeded in reaching the town, unperceived, went to the king's house,
pointed his musket through the doorway and shot him, wounding him so
badly that he died in a short time. By the time the alarm could be
given the assassin had fled beyond their reach. The Umbaty (priest)
was called to save the king's life, but he was past his art and died
sincerely lamented by his subjects.
The day after his death I attended his funeral. The chief was laid
out on mats, with about one hundred fathoms of cloth wound around
him. His face was painted black as though prepared for war, and his
musket and war club lay by his side. His favorite wife sat at his head
moaning most piteously and crying aloud, "Waloa nongu turang owsar cani
lolocoo!" (Oh, my dear chief, I will soon follow you!) The rest of his
wives, three more, came in and sat down beside the corpse and moaned
bitterly--and well they might, for they were all to be strangled and
buried with him. When all was ready, pieces of cloth were twisted up
hard, a single turn taken around their necks, and a man took hold of
each end. At a signal given by a chief (brother to one of the wives)
these men hauled with all their might, and soon put an end to the
troubles of the unfortunate women. They then kissed the hands and feet
of the dead, carried them to the place appointed and interred them. The
next day all the men and women shaved their heads, and the children had
their little fingers cut off. This was done to show their sorrow and
respect for the deceased. They believed that unless they did this the
spirits of the dead would punish them by sending sickness and cutting
off their crops.
Chapter IV
CUSTOMS OF THE ISLANDERS--THE PLANTING
SEASON--A TEMPLE ERECTED TO THE CALOO.
While I resided at Raver we went three months without rain, and
the earth became parched and hard as a brick. The inhabitants were
exceedingly alarmed at the duration of the drought. Such a time was
never known by the oldest people. They expected to lose their crop of
tarrow, which is a vegetable that grows only in very wet ground. It
is very nutritious, and the natives are exceedingly fond of it. In
fact, for months it is their chief article of diet. The chiefs went to
the Umbaty a number of times to get him to intercede with their Caloo
(God) to send them rain, but the old fellow's power did not reach
the clouds. They finally concluded that it must be on account of the
massacre of the Oeno's crew that they were so afflicted. I told them
I thought quite likely that it was to punish them for killing white
men. They said a ship was cast away at one of the islands some years
before, and the crew massacred, and that immediately after there was a
great sickness among them. They believed that the white man's Caloo was
superior to theirs.
One night while at this island we had a severe earthquake. It had been
a most beautiful evening, and I had been amusing the chief with stories
of my country. Just before bed-time we went into the house, got out
some yams and fish to eat and had just got seated when we heard a loud
rumbling noise. The chief jumped and ran out of the house and before
I could imagine what was the matter, the food was going one way and
I another. I started to crawl to the door, fearing the house would
be down on me, for by this time I perceived what the matter was, but
before I reached the door it was all over. The next morning I asked the
natives what was the occasion of the earthquake. They told me there
was a monstrous great spirit, who lived on the big island in a very
deep cave, whom they called Bookeegodinga. He laid on his back with
his knees drawn up, and his least motion shook the earth, and when he
rolled over, which was very seldom, it made a great earthquake. None of
them had ever seen this giant spirit, but some had seen his cave. They
frequently made him presents of mats, tappah and oil, carrying them to
the mouth of the cave and leaving the Umbaty to get him to accept them.
I presume he knew what became of them.
Shortly after this we visited the island of Cantab. We started in a
large double canoe with about a hundred souls on board, and arrived
about noon. The natives here showed the greatest respect to our chief,
all sitting down on his approach, and remaining seated until he had
passed. It is considered by them very disrespectful to stand when a
great chief or king passes, or to talk loud on indifferent subjects
in his presence, and it is sometimes punished with death. For such
misdemeanor the offender must take an arrow or spear in his hand, and
approaching the chief in the most humble manner, beg his pardon, and
when the latter is satisfied that sufficient penitence has been shown,
he grants his forgiveness. Sometimes for very great crimes, in addition
to the above ceremony they are required to make liberal presents of
whales' teeth. This is in cases of murder or for enticing away another
man's wife, which is always visited with the heaviest punishment.
This island had formerly been under its own government. The natives
were great warriors, and had never been conquered until the people at
Raver got muskets and subjected them, making them tributary to Raver.
The Raver natives considered them very valuable subjects. I heard there
was a white man residing on the other side of the island and asked my
chief for permission to visit him, but he refused saying it was an
enemy's town and the Raver people dared not go there. The fact was,
however, that he was afraid I should not come back. While here we were
supplied by the natives with provisions in the greatest abundance. We
remained a few days collecting tribute, and returned home deeply laden
with tappah, mats and coconut oil, which was divided among the chiefs
according to their rank.
The dialect of these people differed from any I had ever visited, but
their manners and customs were the same. Cantab is a small but high
island, about ten miles long by four wide. On the western end there is
a mountain shaped like a sugar loaf, at the foot of which there are two
springs, one hot or very warm, and the other nearly as cold as ice. I
bathed in the warm one, and could but just endure the heat. Many of
the natives had never beheld a white man before and eyed me with great
curiosity, but I was not much troubled with the children, as they were
very much afraid of me and if I looked toward them they would scamper
off like sheep.
When at Raver, I used to employ myself fishing, shooting and doing
little mechanical jobs for the chief. I used to have very fine
shooting, there being vast numbers of ducks round the river. The
natives were very expert at shooting them with arrows. One day I was in
the house casting a lead pipe for the chief, when suddenly he called
out "awanker parpalong sarla comy"! (The white man's vessel has come!)
I inquired where and how he knew. I learned that a canoe was off near
her and started to go on board, but seeing a smoke they were afraid
she was going to fire guns, and dared not go, but immediately came
ashore and reported. The chief ordered his canoe and we started down
the river. When we got to the mouth of the river we found the ship lay
about three miles from the reef, with the maintopsail aback, but the
water was so shoal that we grounded on the reef, and before we could
get over she braced full and stood off. My heart ached to see her go.
This was the first ship I had seen for over two years. We returned to
the shore and built large fires in hopes she would continue round the
island till morning, but when day broke we could see nothing of her.
The chief thought she had gone to the island of Cantab and some of our
party proposed going there if I would accompany them, which I readily
consented to do. We accordingly started in a small canoe, but when
we got to the passage through the reef, we found the sea too rough
to venture out, so we ran down inside the reef four or five miles to
a small village where we procured a large canoe and crossed over to
the island of Banger, about five miles distant. By this time it was
near night with a strong wind and rough sea, so we concluded to stop
there for the night. We secured our canoe and started for the village,
which was at the summit of the highest mountain and about three miles
from the shore. After a tedious walk over rocky hills and through
thickly-wooded valleys we arrived at the village, reported to the chief
and were assigned a house calculated for the accommodation of visitors,
with which every village is provided.
Through the night the inhabitants were employed cooking pigs and
vegetables, which were presented to us with the usual ceremony. The
morning brought a severe storm of wind, rain, thunder and lightning.
All we could do was to make ourselves comfortable. In the course of
the day our chief sent for an old Umbaty who was celebrated for his
knowledge of the future, and told him he wanted to know if there was a
ship at Cantab or any of the neighboring islands, also when the storm
would subside so that we could continue our voyage. The old man sat
motionless for a few moments, then got up and left us. Directly he
returned bearing in his hands a few green leaves. He sat down in the
middle of the house, and rubbed the leaves until the juice began to
run. He then held his hand with the juicy leaves straight up over his
head and said: "If this juice runs down to my shoulder without dropping
off she is there, but if not, she has gone some other cruise." He then
squeezed the leaves and the juice ran down to his elbow and dropped
off. "Ah!" he said, "she is not there." Other questions he answered the
same way.
This island is much like the others, high and well wooded, and very
fertile. The inhabitants were not so numerous as on other islands of
the same size, owing no doubt to their continual wars. Our chief told
me that till within a few years the natives here were very savage and
if a canoe landed for shelter in a storm or in distress they would
kill all hands and have a cannibal feast.
At sunset it cleared off and we proceeded on our voyage, arriving at
Cantab the next morning, but could learn nothing of the ship. We then
proceeded to Tarbuca where we concluded to make a stop. While here the
chief requested us to assist him to capture a village, the people of
which were very troublesome to him. We consented, mustered our forces
and started one morning, but found the enemy prepared for us. We had
two muskets. I had one and a chief another. We gave the war whoop, and
advanced to the attack, firing our muskets and wounding two, whereupon
they all fled, taking with them their wounded companions. Some of our
men followed them and killed one chief, who they slung on a pole and
brought back. They took the dead body to the square and sang songs of
victory over it, then carried it away and had a cannibal feast. The
following night one of the Tarbuca men went to this village and offered
to join them. They readily accepted him. After telling them some fine
stories he induced one of them to accompany him on the pretense of
securing some plunder. He got him near the town, knocked him on the
head, shouldered him and brought him into the town. For this act he was
well rewarded by the chief. We started for Raver with our canoe loaded
with presents given us for assisting in conquering the village, and
arrived the same day, having been absent about a fortnight.
Some time after this I obtained permission to visit Ambow. My chief
furnished me with a canoe and two men. We started in the morning and
reached Ambow in the afternoon. I went direct to the king, who was
delighted to see me and treated me to the best he had. He asked me
if I had come back to stop with him, but I told him I should return
the next morning, having only come to see him and inquire after his
health. He seemed very much flattered that I should have manifested so
much interest in him. I also went round and visited the chiefs of my
acquaintance, who were exceedingly glad to see me, but all regretted
that my visit was to be so short. The next morning we returned to
Raver.
A short time after our return we were visited by a party from the big
island called by the natives Vechalaboo, bringing with them presents
of tappah and salt for the king of Raver. These presents were brought
up to the public square, which is used for all grand occasions, and
distributed with the usual ceremony. After this our chiefs had a dance
by themselves. They formed in a straight line with the head chief in
the center and the singers behind. When the singing began (one singing
a line or sentence alone, then all repeating) the chiefs kept time
with their hands and feet with great regularity. They had no music but
singing, though when they went through the spear exercise, they made a
kind of drum by resting the ends of a stick of timber some five feet
long on blocks, and beating on the middle with sticks about the size of
drum sticks.
I always had the privilege, at the time of receiving presents, of
selecting whatever I chose, and generally availed myself of it.
Sometimes when the natives thought I was helping myself rather too
freely they would call out that a certain subject was tabooed, but I
would tell them it wasn't tabooed for me to take what I liked. Salt was
a scarce article among them and much valued. It was made in artificial
ponds by the heat of the sun, and they brought all they had for
market to Raver. The king of Raver had married the big island chief's
daughter. From Raver the salt was carried to Ambow, and exchanged for
tappah, oil, mats, etc., and from there it would get distributed over
most of the islands. It was manufactured in large cakes--some of them
as large as two men could carry on a pole. When our visitors departed
their canoes were loaded with presents from our people consisting of
mats, tappah, and oil scented with sandal wood and flowers.
This large island is separated from Raver by a channel only about a
mile wide. It was thickly settled and its inhabitants were continually
at war with each other. Indeed the principal occupation of the men,
when not on the war path, was the manufacture of clubs, spears, bows
and arrows, and other implements of war. Their dialect was so different
from ours at Raver that I could understand very little they said. (As
the reader may surmise, I had by this time quite mastered the language
of the natives with whom I had resided.)
There were great numbers of green and hawk's bill turtles around the
shores and an abundance of fish which they caught with their nets. They
would spread their net in the form of a half moon outside the fish or
turtles, secure it by sticking down poles, then drive the game towards
it by splashing the water. When these islanders were preparing for a
fishing cruise they were highly offended to be spoken to, and when
addressed refused to answer, and if anyone stepped on their nets or
fishing gear, they would postpone their cruise till another day. They
believed that if they conversed with anyone at such times they would be
eaten by sharks, or some other dire calamity would befall them.
It now being the planting season I went with the king one day to
witness their operations. At planting time it is customary for the
neighboring towns to join and assist each other. We went over the river
to a town on the opposite bank, where we found all hands employed in
breaking up soil and preparing it for the seed. This was done with a
kind of shovel made from a large pearl shell with a handle or pole
fixed to it. They dug up the earth and hove it up in heaps about four
feet apart, each heap being calculated for a hill of yams. The king
told me to select a piece of ground for myself, and he would have it
dug, which I did. After the ground was thus prepared they returned to
Raver and had a feast.
The next day the women went out and planted the yams. These were
planted about the same as we plant potatoes. The large ones were cut
into several pieces and the small ones planted whole. They put one or
more in each of the heaps of earth, covered them lightly with soil, and
then put a handful of white sand on each, that they might know when it
was all done. At every planting season they plant a piece of ground
for the Caloo (God). This is done principally by the chiefs, the women
not being allowed to plant this for fear the Caloo will be offended
and destroy their crops. The ground for the Caloo is dug up with an
ironwood stake and made up in heaps about four feet high with their
hands. They plant a hill on each heap and set a white flag on a pole
at each hill, thinking that this will insure them a good crop. Tarrow
keeps continually growing. They pull up a root and cut it off, then
stick the top down and a new root grows. After the yams sprout they
stick a reed in each hill for the vine to run up on. After this they
are left to the care of the women, who keep them clear from weeds with
a hoe made from a pearl shell.
The chiefs at Raver frequently employ themselves in making baskets,
which they weave very neatly and handsomely from a kind of grass which
they cure and dye various colors. These baskets are traded off to the
other islands.
The most of the chiefs had muskets and many of them were excellent
shots, but the common people seldom used one. It was very rare for
them to have property enough to buy one and if they did, and the head
chiefs or king took a fancy to it, they would take it away from them.
They sometimes would want to fire my musket, and I generally let them,
always putting in a heavy charge. They would hold the gun at arm's
length, and when they fired she would jump out of their hands. This
puzzled them very much. They could not understand why she did not
jump when I fired her. I used to frequently accompany the king on his
gunning excursions. He was an excellent shot, and prided himself very
much on his skill, and was always highly elated when he beat me.
The island of Raver is about five or six miles long and only about
two miles across in its widest part. It had five or six different
villages, some of them small. The one where the king resided was much
the largest, containing upwards of a hundred houses. Those occupied
by the common people were very small, but those belonging to the king
and chiefs were much larger. The one occupied by the king was about
forty feet by thirty wide. At each end he had a temporary floor across
from the eaves forming a loft. These lofts he used to deposit his
treasure in. One end, where he slept, was raised from the ground with
dry grass covered with mats and a curtain drawn across to keep out the
mosquitoes, which were exceedingly troublesome.
While I was here the king built a house for their Caloo Laboo (Great
Spirit). This was perfectly round. The center of the roof went up to
a very high peak, which was supported by a post in the ground. Across
this peak a spar was fastened, which projected eight feet beyond the
house, and was covered with small white shells, and a string of the
same ten feet long was suspended from each end of the spar. This was
built as an offering to the Great Spirit, who had given them power over
their enemies, and was placed in charge of the Umbaty, who was supposed
to frequently see and converse with the great Caloo.
They generally cook in the house, having the fire-place in the middle
of the building. They used earthen vessels to cook in, made in the form
of a jar. At one of the villages on this island they manufactured this
kind of ware and their water jars were very handsomely glazed with the
gum of a tree. This labor is all performed by the women. They bake it
in a kiln. This ware forms an article of traffic for which they get
tappah and oil from the other islands.
One morning the king sent a messenger to the king of Ambow. In the
afternoon he returned with a letter to me from David Whippey, informing
me that there had been a ship seen by the natives and that some of
them had been on board and conversed with the captain, who could talk
with them enough to inform them that he was going to Myambooa after
sandalwood. He (David) wished me to come to his town and go with him in
pursuit of the ship. I informed the king of the contents of my letter
and promised him that if he would let me have a canoe and two men to go
to Ambow and from there get to the ship, I would procure him a musket
and some powder. He was much pleased and promised that he would have
the canoe and men ready in the morning. I spent a sleepless night. The
thought of once more getting on board a ship drove sleep entirely from
my eyes.
Chapter V.
CARY TAKES JOURNEY WITH WHIPPEY--TRADING
WITH "BECHE DE MER"--BATTLE WITH HOSTILE NATIVES.
Morning came at last and I found my chief as good as his word. The
canoe and men were ready and I immediately embarked for Ambow. I found
the old king there as glad to see me and as kind as ever. He told me
the white man's vessel had come to one of the islands and inquired
if I was going to find her. I told him that was what brought me to
Ambow, and that I wanted him to furnish me a canoe to go over to Ovalau
to find David, as he had sent for me to go with him. He accordingly
procured me one from the fishing people and I was soon under way. The
king told me I must come back and not go in the ship, but tell the
captain to come and trade with him for beche de mer[1], all of which I
readily promised.
[Footnote 1: An article of luxury among the Chinese consisting of the
dried bodies of Holothuria or sea-cucumber. They are found nearly
buried in the coral sand, their feathered tentacula alone floating
above it. Beche de mer is extremely gelatinous, and is much used by the
Chinese as an ingredient in rich soups.]
When about three miles from Ambow the wind died out, and as night was
coming on the natives refused to proceed, despite my entreaties, so
we landed on a small island and spent the night. Next morning we got
under way and arrived at Ovalau about noon. I found the white man who
lived with David Whippey and he told me that David had gone to one of
the neighboring islands, but would be back the next day and that he
was waiting for me to go to the ship. The next day David returned, but
as it was late in the afternoon we decided to wait until the following
morning. It was now about a year since I had seen David and we spent
the night very pleasantly.
Early in the morning the chief's double canoe was launched and prepared
for the voyage. We made sail, having about twenty natives for crew and
six of us passengers--three whites and three of the brig's crew who
belonged to the island of Yap, one of the Caroline islands. (After the
mutiny they attached themselves to David and had been with him ever
since.) We ran this day about fifty miles N. E. and arrived before
sunset at the island of Booyar, where we stopped at a small village
tributary to Ovalau. Here we learned that the ship was at anchor at
Myambooa bay and that the captain had been trading at the islands
before. The natives brought us provisions as usual. They seemed to be a
poor tribe. Their houses were small and poorly built.
We were detained here by head winds for three days, which to me seemed
a month, so impatient was I to reach the ship and anxious lest she
might leave before we could get there. On the fourth day the wind and
weather were favorable and we started for Myambooa. As we neared the
mouth of the bay we discovered a canoe steering for us, and supposing
it to be enemy we immediately prepared for action. Our muskets were
loaded and the natives bent their bows, but on their drawing near we
saw it was an Ambow canoe that had been to the ship, and that she had a
well-dressed white man and one of the Manila men on board.
The white man hailed us and inquired where we were from. We told
him, and that we were in pursuit of a ship which we had heard was
at Myambooa. He told us that it was the ship Clay, of Salem, Capt.
Benjamin Vandaford, and that he was the second officer. He said they
were on a trading voyage for sandalwood and beche de mer, and that he
was now bound to Ambow, having heard of there being turtle shell and
some dollars there. He inquired as to the truth of the report and we
told him we knew of none, except what the king had in his possession.
David offered to go back with him to assist in trading, and after some
hesitation he took him. We then proceeded to the ship. I was invited
on board and kindly received by the captain and his officers, and soon
acquainted them with my story, and engaged passage in the ship to act
as interpreter and assist in procuring a cargo.
This was in October, 1827. The next day the chief of the island visited
us, bringing with him some sandalwood for a present to the captain. The
captain wished me to tell him that he wanted a house built for curing
beche de mer on the south side of the bay. The chief agreed to build
the house, but advised having it on the other side of the bay, as there
was not timber enough on the south side and it would take some time
to transport it. The captain, however, insisted upon having it built
on the south side, as it would be nearer the ship and more convenient
landing. So he went on shore and selected the site, and the chief soon
had the whole tribe at work cutting timber. The location of the house
was such that it could be protected by the ship's guns in case of
attack from the natives. The work progressed so fast that the house was
soon ready. When the pots were set and everything prepared for curing
the beche de mer, the captain sent me off to the reef with a boat's
crew after the fish, which we found quite plenty and we soon returned
with a boat-load. After breakfast they were landed and prepared for
cooking and curing.
The method of doing this is as follows: The fish is cut open at the
mouth and the entrails squeezed out. It is then boiled for half to
three-quarters of an hour, then skimmed out and laid on a flake to
drain. When sufficiently cool it is squeezed with the hands, put into
baskets and carried to the drying house, where it is spread on flakes
built over a trench, in which there is a slow fire. After remaining
there twenty-four hours it is shifted to a flake above, where it
remains two or three days. It is then put into bags and carried to the
ship, where it is carefully picked over, and what is sufficiently cured
is sewed up in bags, weighed, and stowed away ready for market.
The natives brought beche de mer in the greatest abundance--quite as
much as we could take care of--and the prospect was very good for
speedily procuring the desired supply. But one day, while we were on
board at dinner, our house was discovered to be afire. The captain
ordered two boats to be manned and armed, supposing it had been set
on fire by the natives. On reaching the shore, however, we learned
that it had caught by accident on the inside, and those in charge were
unable to extinguish it. It burned to the ground and also consumed a
considerable quantity of our beche de mer. That afternoon David arrived
from Ambow, bringing a letter from Mr. Driver, the second mate, which
stated that he had built a house and found the beche de mer very
plenty. He had got about forty piculs (a weight of 133 1/3 pounds)
cured, most of it of a superior quality. He had spent all his articles
for trade and wanted more sent.
Upon receiving this intelligence the captain decided to go to Ambow
with the ship and not attempt to rebuild here. So he collected what
sandalwood he could, paid off the men he had employed, made the chief
some presents and got under way. We beat up some five or six miles
and came to anchor under the headland of Naviti, where we lay three
days. We went on shore with the boat at the town of Naviti to trade
for vegetables, etc., and loaded our boat with coconuts, bananas and
sugar cane, for which we paid a few beads and trinkets. This island
is one of the largest in the group and is laid down on the chart as
"Thowcanrover".
Myambooa is the largest and most convenient harbor to be found at these
islands. The south side of the bay is formed by a low, narrow point of
land. The north side is very high land and there are several villages
located there but none near the shore. The village of Myambooa is the
principal place in this part of the island. It is situated near the
entrance of the bay, but some distance inland, and a river runs past
the village. While lying here in the Clay I went up this river with
Captain Vandaford and found the water very shallow at the mouth, with
a very crooked channel, but after getting over the bar found plenty of
water. On each side of the river are large groves of mangrove trees,
with their trunks below the surface of the water covered with oysters,
some of which we tried and found very good.
Above these trees stood the village of Myambooa, which was a small
place and the houses quite inferior. The natives depended upon their
neighbors for mats and other domestic articles, for which they paid
principally with powder and other articles which they got mostly from
ships. Their location gave them much the advantage in ship trade,
as it was the only place where sandalwood could be procured in any
considerable amount. Captain Vandaford had made two or three voyages
here before, found sandalwood plenty and bought it very cheap.
On the fourth day, the wind favoring us, we got under way and ran down
to the island of Goro, where we shortened sail and hove to near the
shore. The natives came off, bringing us yams and other provisions,
which we bought with knives, beads, etc. The next morning we made
sail, and proceeded to Ovalau, where we arrived in the afternoon, and
anchored off the western side near the shore. After getting the ship
snug a boat was sent to Mr. Driver, who was trading at the island of
Bever, about two miles from Ambow and ten or eleven miles from the
ship. When the boat returned we got under way and went nearer to the
island where Mr. Driver was employed and came to about two miles from
the shore surrounded with broken coral reefs. All hands were then
employed rigging boarding nets and getting ready for trade.
We were soon surrounded by natives from Ambow and adjacent islands. The
king and governor of Ambow came on board to inspect the ship, bringing
with them a few trifles as presents to the captain. The ship's sides
were thronged with natives, but none were admitted on board except
those of high rank. To enforce this we had to keep men stationed around
the ship to once in a while prick the natives off when they became too
bold. After those on board had satisfied their curiosity, the captain
directed me to tell them that he was going to Ambow and would like to
have their company, to which they consented, so the boat was prepared
for their reception, and we finally succeeded in getting them into it.
After we got off from the ship I told them, by the captain's order,
that the ship would fire a salute in their honor, which she did, and
they were highly delighted. On the way to the shore they commented
freely on the ship, her construction and the grandeur of her
appearance, and inquired how long it took to build such a noble vessel.
They were perfectly astounded when I told them that one could be built
and fitted for sea in three or four months. They could hardly credit
it, since it took them three or four years to build a canoe. We soon
landed at Ambow, where the natives were assembled in great numbers to
see the captain. The king's house was the first place we visited. The
inside was covered with new mats and everything arranged to show to
the best advantage to the visitors. Captain Vandaford gave the king's
wives a few small presents. We then took a stroll around the village
and I pointed out to him the different chiefs' houses. On our return to
the ship we found the natives, whom we left there, still viewing the
different parts and objects about the ship with evident interest. They
measured her length and breadth, and counted her masts over and over,
counting the bowsprit as one. They called it spineringarselar.
The next day we went on shore to the beche de mer house and found the
trading officer busy purchasing beche de mer, with which he was already
over-stocked. We loaded our boat with the cured and returned to the
ship. The natives were continually bringing fruit and vegetables,
which we bought very reasonably. The king and his officers having
had their visit, next came the queen and her retinue, to whom all
requisite attention was paid. They were invited into the cabin. They
were at first rather timid, fearing some evil was intended, but upon
my assuring them that they would not be harmed they ventured down.
They appeared delighted with the cabin furniture and indeed with
everything they saw. The captain made them some trifling presents,
but they thought as they were persons of the first rank he had ought
to have given them more. One of them asked me why the captain was
so stingy--said he was a great captain and ought to be liberal, but
he wasn't like massa Raver (Mr. Driver) who gave them a great many
presents and was the best white man that ever traded among them.
Mr. Driver on shore was continually crowded from morning till night
with women and children bringing beche de mer, mats for bags, fruit,
vegetables and everything which they thought he would buy. The price of
a musket was sixteen hogsheads full of beche de mer, which it took them
five or six days to get from the reefs. Some of it they got in two or
three fathoms of water, diving for it, and bringing up one or two at
a time. That obtained in deep water is the most valuable kind to the
Chinese. When first taken it is about a foot in length and from three
to four inches wide. The under side or belly is flat, and the back
rounding. When taken it is quite soft, and if not boiled soon spoils.
The entrails and water which comes from the fish is of a bright purple
and those employed in opening them get their hands so stained that it
is impossible to wash it off. It is quite lifeless. We never found
anything inside but this purple water and coarse sand and gravel. The
back is covered with prickles from an inch to an inch and a half in
length. When taken it is of a reddish cast intermingled with white, but
when properly cured is entirely black.
To procure it the natives go out on the reef, let the canoe drift,
with their eyes fixed on the bottom, and when they see one, dive and
secure it. When cured the prickles become hard and brittle as glass.
Captain Vandaford took one of this kind on board and weighed it green.
It weighed five pounds, but when cured it only weighed three quarters
of a pound. There are five or six different kinds of beche de mer. One
kind is about a foot long and three inches in diameter, smooth, and of
a reddish black color. The mouth is very small and round and has four
or five teeth. It is not as soft as the prickly kind but is generally
found with it in deep water. The two kinds are scarce and hard to get,
but are much more valuable than the kind we got at Myambooa, which
were of the same form, but much smaller and black, being found in much
greater abundance and more easily obtained, as it is found in shallow
water.
After being here some time we experienced a heavy gale of wind from the
southward. We put out three anchors and sent down our light spars. We
were surrounded with reefs, one not more than a cable's length astern,
but having good holding ground we rode out the gale without material
damage. Many of the houses at Ambow were blown down. The gale lasted
about twelve hours, then moderated and shifted to the northward,
blowing as hard as before, but did not last long. When it abated we
sent a boat ashore after beche de mer. Mr. Driver had all he could do
during the gale to prevent the house from blowing down but by the aid
of guys and shores had kept it up. Most of the thatch had blown off,
however, and the house was flooded with water. He had led the water
off by means of a ditch and was now ready for business again. When we
had procured six or seven hundred piculs the captain thought it best
to start for Manila, so as to get there before the change of the N. E.
monsoon, so we broke up the establishment, paid off the natives, made
the king and chiefs suitable presents and got underway for Ovalau where
we arrived the same afternoon.
I then concluded to leave the ship. It was now the 17th of February,
1828. I wrote a few lines to the owner of the Oeno, informing him of
her loss and the fate of the captain and crew, which I gave to Capt.
Vandaford, informing him that I should remain at the islands till his
return from Manila. David Whippey was on board, and we stopped for the
night. The next day the ship got under way and stood clear of the land
and backed her maintopsail.
The captain gave us (David and me) a boat into which he put a keg
of powder and musket for each, besides several small articles. He
requested us, if he got in any trouble or was in sight next morning, to
come off, which we promised to do, and shoved off. The ship fired a gun
and gave us three cheers, which we answered; she then squared away and
stood on her course, and we made the best of our way ashore, arriving
at the village of Labooca about sunset. David's chief was almost beside
himself with joy when he found that he had not gone in the ship, but he
had not the remotest idea of leaving.
After stopping a while with David I made a visit to Ambow. The king
was surprised enough to see me, supposing I had gone in the ship.
Seeing my musket he examined it attentively for some time, then said,
smiling: "White folks know how to pick out good things for themselves."
He then showed me his and asked me if they were as good as mine. I told
him they were exactly the same--they only wanted cleaning. I offered to
clean them for him, and while I was taking the locks apart and putting
them together the old man watched me with the keenest interest. When
I had finished he said: "Are you a spirit?" I told him no, that I was
flesh and blood the same as himself. "Well," said he, "if you are the
same as me, what makes you so white?" I told him it was because I
belonged to a colder climate and had always worn clothes. But he seemed
to think I must have some supernatural aid or I could not take the
locks apart and put them together again so readily.
I finished my visit and returned to Labooca to stop awhile with David.
I had not been here long before war was declared against one of the
villages on the island of Thowcanrover. David and I were invited
to join the expedition and messengers were sent to the different
villages to warn the inhabitants to appear at the chief town armed
and equipped for war early the next morning. When all the warriors
were assembled and ready for duty twelve canoes were prepared for
the expedition and we embarked for the village of Navarto, where we
obtained reinforcements. The next morning a consultation was held as to
the best mode, and it was decided to divide our forces, one party to
march by land and the other to proceed by water. We soon arrived near
the enemy's village, and after going through with the usual ceremony
we commenced our march toward the town, and attacked them with arrows.
They returned the attack with interest, adding to their arrows showers
of stones which seemed to be mostly directed at me. On account of my
having clothes on, they apparently selected me for a mark.
Chapter VI.
DEFEAT OF THE ENEMY--ANOTHER CARGO OF BECHE DE
MERE--A TRIP TO MANILA--CARY RECEIVES LETTERS FROM HOME.
I had several hairbreadth escapes from their missiles, but fortunately
they were escapes. Eight or ten of us who had muskets marched up,
dodging behind trees and stumps until within easy musket shot. David,
dressed like a native, led our party. He got shelter behind a stump,
singled out one of their chief warriors, fired and shot him through
the head. As soon as their chief fell the enemy fled for the woods
and mountains. Then we rushed forward, broke down their bamboo fence
and entered the village. We killed all who had not made their escape,
plundered the town and set it on fire, then marched back to Navarto,
singing songs of victory. Here we were paid for our services with hogs,
turtles, fishing nets and whales' teeth.
We remained here several days, then embarked for Labooca, where I
stopped some time. I next went to Ambow, and there found some of the
Raver chiefs who were bound home. Feeling that I should like to see my
old chief I took passage with them. The chief at Raver was delighted
to see me. He immediately took me to his house and prepared a hearty
meal for me. When I had finished he began to question me, asked what I
got out of the ship, and why I had not brought my goods with me. I told
him I had not got much except a beautiful musket. He examined it very
closely and wanted me to change with him, which I did.
I stayed there about a fortnight and was about to return to Ambow, when
a messenger arrived from the big island and informed the chief that the
enemy was about to attack their town in great numbers, and that unless
they received assistance they would have to desert their village. I
was sitting beside the chief, who turned to me and said: "Wilama, you
go and defend their village?" Though I felt little inclination to do
so, I knew that he would be displeased if I refused, so I consented to
go. There was one of the Manila men in the house at the time who was
eager to go with us, so we made immediate preparations and embarked
that evening. On our passage along the shore in a canoe I suffered
intolerably from mosquitoes and sand fleas, having absolutely no
protection from them, as I was quite naked.
We arrived at the village just before daylight. The enemy were just
discernible on the neighboring hills in great numbers. We beat drums
to let them know that they were discovered and that we were prepared
for them. They continued hovering round the village during the greater
part of the day, but made no attack and towards night marched away. Our
party then returned to Ambow, where I remained a few days longer, then
went to Labooca.
Here I passed the time very agreeably with David. The head chief of
Labooca was a very pleasant, agreeable man, but, like all natives,
rather inclined to be jealous. When David and I were talking together
he was always very inquisitive to know what we were talking about,
but we would tell him some plausible story calculated to allay all
uneasiness.
By invitation of the chief, we accompanied him to the island of Engow,
and while there some of the natives from the mountains saw a vessel
steering for the island of Ovalau. They came and reported to the chief.
I was of course very anxious to get to her, feeling very certain that
it was the Clay, as it was about the time that Capt. Vandaford had
agreed to be back (July, 1828). But the wind was blowing a gale and we
were unable to leave for two days. At length it moderated and we got
underway for Ovalau. We had not been out long before it blew so hard we
had to take in both sails (the large canoes always carry a small sail
for stormy weather) and steer for the nearest land, which was Butcheak.
We anchored there, went on shore, and got some supper. The following
day, the weather having moderated, we again started for Ovalau, where
we arrived in the forenoon.
On landing, the natives informed us that a ship was at anchor on the
opposite side of the island. We (David and I) got a small canoe and
started immediately for the ship, which proved to be the Clay. As we
neared the vessel, the captain hailed us to know if it was David, and
on being answered in the affirmative, immediately invited us on board,
and inquired why we had not visited him before. After telling him all
the circumstances, he engaged us to assist him in procuring another
cargo. He wanted me as interpreter on board and David to assist Mr.
Driver on shore. He had concluded not to go to Ambow with the ship, as
there were less natives here and he would not be troubled with so many
visitors as at Ambow, the distance being so great they would not come
off so often. We were about fifteen miles from Ambow. The old chief
visited us once in a while, and the captain always made him presents
and told me to tell him if he saw anything he wanted to ask for it,
which pleased him very much.
Mr. Driver found his beche de mer house in tolerable good order, so
that he was soon ready for business and the natives were as ready for
trade as ever, but the beche de mer was not so plentiful as on the
former occasion. While lying here the captain had a disturbance with
his chief officer, put him in irons and turned him out of the cabin.
At one time Capt. Vandaford went on a visit to the trading officer on
shore, leaving the ship in charge of the third mate, now acting as
second mate. On our return next day we found the utmost confusion had
prevailed during our absence. The officer had made too free with the
liquor and imagined that the boat was cut off and that the natives were
about to attack the ship. He had the guns all loaded and was running
about the deck like a madman, cursing and abusing everyone. Though
nothing serious happened, the captain was careful how he left him in
future.
While here, two Ambow chiefs brought off 30 hogs to sell. Capt.
Vandaford bought them on condition that they should take them on shore
and keep them until he wanted them, when he would pay them two muskets.
To this they assented and took them ashore. A few weeks later they
returned with them and demanded payment, which the captain refused
as the hogs had grown very poor in the meantime. At this they were
highly offended. They told him that if he would not pay them what he
had agreed he might keep the hogs, so they left them and were about to
leave in their canoes when Capt. Vandaford called them back, thinking
they might do him some injury in the beche de mer business, and gave
them the two muskets, whereupon they departed, well pleased.
After procuring a cargo we prepared for sea. I had now decided to go
to Manila in the ship. A few days before we left the king of Ambow
came to make his last visit. He expressed regret upon learning that I
was going, and wanted I should wait a while longer, but I told him my
friends at home were anxious to see me and I must go, though perhaps
I might come back again, and that I should never forget his kindness
to me. When the old man left us, we honored him with a salute and
three cheers. When we were ready for sea we discharged David and the
hired men, got under way and proceeded to Myambooa, where we arrived
at sunset and anchored. We were visited by the natives and procured
a stock of vegetables, etc. The next morning we made sail and before
night were clear of all the Feejee reefs and shaped our course for
Manila.
Nothing occurred during our passage worthy of special mention. We
crossed the line, took the N. E. monsoons, which carried us in sight
of the Philippine islands, and the latter part of January entered the
straits of St. Bernardino, arriving about the first of February. Our
cargo was readily disposed of to the Chinese merchants, who came off to
see it weighed, after which the ship's hold was prepared for taking in
a cargo of sugar. Capt. Vandaford informed me that he had spoken to the
American consul concerning me and that I was at liberty to leave the
ship if I chose, or might continue in her until I could do better, and
I finally concluded to remain for the present.
We commenced taking in a cargo of sugar, which was brought alongside
in lighters. I went on shore on liberty one day and fell in with one
of the Manila men who came in the ship. He told me that a Spanish
merchant had been talking with him about the islands and that he wanted
a man who understood the language of the natives to go in his ship,
which he was daily expecting from Canton. I went with this man to the
merchant's house, told him my business and got his terms. He offered me
forty dollars per month to go as second officer of his ship, but as she
had not arrived we could go no farther. He treated me very politely,
and I took leave of him with very high opinion. It had been so long
since I had been in civilized society other than on ship-board that
this merchant's gentlemanly courtesy made a deep impression on my mind.
I returned on board the Clay and informed the captain of the Spanish
merchant's offer and offered to continue in the ship if he would give
me monthly wages. He offered me low wages, which I accepted rather
than go with a crew of half Spanish and Indians. We had about finished
loading the Clay, when the brig Quill, of Salem, arrived with orders
to take from the Clay such men as liked to return to the islands with
an addition to their wages, and to exchange mates. I went on board the
Quill to see what wages I could get. The captain offered me fourteen
dollars a month, for which I agreed to go, so I took my month's advance
to get such articles as I needed and returned to the Clay.
The government here would not permit us to change crews, so the
captains agreed to sail in company, and exchange after we got to Angea
point. About the middle of March, 1829, we got under way in company
with the Quill. We had a very good passage across the China sea until
we came to the straits of Gasper. Here we had much light and calm
weather. We worked through and on entering the straits of Sunda saw
two large prows (a kind of vessel used in the East Indian seas) to
windward, heading down for us. A gun was fired from the Clay at them,
when they hauled their wind and stood off. We continued our passage
through the straits with light winds and pleasant weather. About the
latter part of April we came to anchor at Angea point, stopped here
two or three days and got some water, and Mr. Driver, with two seamen
besides myself, joined the Quill.
Late in the afternoon both vessels got under way and stood out from
the land. During the night, the weather being thick and squally, we
got foul of the Clay. She struck us on the larboard bow and did us
considerable damage. The Clay lost her jibboom, injured her head and
stove her quarter boat. Next day we came to an anchor under North
Island and repaired damages, then got under way and continued our
course through the strait. After passing Java Head we parted company
with the Clay.
Nothing worthy of particular notice occurred during the remainder of
our passage to the islands. When in sight of the island of Coroo we saw
a rankish looking schooner off our bow standing toward us. When near
us she luffered by the wind, brailed up foresail and hoisted Chilian
colors. Not knowing who or what she was, and as she had rather a
suspicious look, we loaded our big guns and prepared for the worst. She
kept off from us, came down and spoke us. We found it was the schooner
Valador of and from Valparaiso, on a trading cruise among the islands
for tortoise-shell, etc. We stood in for the island of Coroo. When we
got near the island the natives came off, bringing yams, bread-fruit,
etc., for trade. It was now late, so we shortened sail and lay to for
the night. At daylight we made sail and arrived at Ovalau late in the
afternoon.
We were soon visited by David Whippey and a host of natives who
informed me that the old king of Ambow was dead and that he was
succeeded by his brother Veserwanker, who was greatly his inferior in
every sense. Mr. Driver, the chief officer, was dispatched to Ambow
to visit the new king and see if a cargo could be procured. The king
thought he could furnish a cargo as well and as quickly as his brother
had done for the Clay. The weather being fine we got under way for
Ambow, where we soon arrived and were visited by the king and suite.
The captain invited the king below and treated him with rum, which he
drank very freely and soon found he liked it better than carva. His
visits became very frequent and lengthy; he would sit and drink rum
until he became boozy; then he would praise the rum saying it was much
better than carva and tell me how foolish his head was, which I did not
at all doubt, for his actions were quite as foolish as his feelings.
When he left us after these visits he would insist on having a couple
of bottles to take with him. He used to tell me to tell the captain not
to give the rest of the natives any, but to keep it all for him. He was
the only one among them that I ever saw drink rum.
We got along slowly with the beche de mer. It was getting scarce and
we had frequent spells of bad weather which prevented the natives from
going after it.
One day a chief brought a spy glass to Mr. Driver to sell, which he
said was found on the reef by some of the natives who were fishing.
We could form no idea how it got there, other than that some vessel
had been cast away somewhere in the neighborhood. It was nearly a new
glass and very little bruised; consequently could not have been long
there. Soon afterwards we learned from the natives that a vessel had
been cast away on a reef near the Island of Thowcanrover. Capt. Kinsman
immediately hired a chief to go in search of the captain and crew. A
canoe was prepared and sailed for the island of Somoson. Mr. Page,
clerk of the brig, accompanied the chief. On their arrival at this
island they found the captain, whose name was Clark, and his mate, some
of the crew, and heard of the others on different islands, but could
not stop to get them. We found from Capt. Clark that the lost vessel
was the same schooner which we had spoken on our arrival at the Islands
(the Valador).
The captain said that after leaving us he stood over for the island of
Nerg. After trading with the natives he started for Thowcanrover. When
near the island he struck on a coral reef. Having lost his boats at the
Navigator islands, he had nothing left but two old canoes which were
lashed together and with as many as they would carry left the wreck,
leaving the crew to shift for themselves. These were afterwards taken
off by the natives. They succeeded in reaching the shore in the canoes,
but were immediately stripped of everything they had brought with them
and threatened with instant death, but were rescued by a friendly chief
who heard of the wreck and went immediately to their relief, arriving
just in time to save their lives. This chief was always very friendly
to the whites. He had frequently told me that if he had known of the
loss of the Oeno at the time he would have come and taken us all to his
island and protected us. He always protected the whites from assaults
and insults. But few are to be found in any country possessed of kinder
feelings or more amiable qualities than this old heathen. Capt. Clark
said the spy glass was his and came out of the wreck. He and his mate,
Mr. Wallis, were kindly received and treated by Capt. Kinsman and
his officers and furnished with clothes, of which they were nearly
destitute.
It was now the 4th of July, which was celebrated on board our brig by
firing big guns and small arms, to the great amusement of the king and
natives. They were perfectly astonished at the distance the shot went
from the big guns, but did not at all like the noise they made. One
day the king, seeing some paint about decks, requested me to ask the
captain to give him enough to paint his canoe. He said it would make
her look like a vessel. I told the captain if he would give him the
paint I would go on shore and put it on for him, which I did, much to
his satisfaction. When finished I told him to have a fence built around
her to keep the hogs and natives from her, and not to touch her for a
week by which time she would be fit to use, all which instructions he
strictly followed, and was extremely proud of her, saying there was not
another canoe among the islands so handsome.
This old chief was very anxious to buy my fowling piece, but as there
was no trading allowed except for the brig I put him off from time to
time, but he wouldn't give it up. I finally told him he should have it
for the shell of three large tortoises. He went off in pursuit of the
shells, which he brought in the evening and took the gun highly pleased
with his bargain. The gun having four barrels he thought he should
be superior to the other chiefs if he had such an uncommon piece of
property.
We lay here a long time, but getting ahead very slowly with our cargo,
the Captain concluded to get to Myambooa, as the beche de mer had
become very scarce at Ambow. About the middle of October we got under
way for Myambooa Bay, where we found the ship Glide, of Salem, Capt.
Henry Archer. He informed us that in coming in to the bay he had struck
a sunken rock and his ship leaked so badly they had all they could do
to keep her free with both pumps. He had heard of a vessel being at
Ambow and had sent his second mate in pursuit of her and now began to
feel anxious for his safety. Mr. Driver was immediately dispatched in
pursuit of the missing officer, and next day both returned.
Preparation was now made for heaving down the Glide. Her guns and
stores were taken on board the Quill and some of her cargo was taken on
shore at the beche de mer house in care of Mr. Driver who had commenced
the beche de mer trade. Having discharged the Glide, a raft was
constructed from her spare spars and coconut trees, to which she was
hove down, her leak stopped and she was righted again and took in her
cargo and stores. We continued our business till December when, having
procured a sufficient cargo, we got ready to leave for Manila. When we
were about ready for sea Capt. Archer wanted I should join his ship, to
which I agreed at thirty dollars per month, and after having settled
with Capt. Kinsman, joined the Glide. In a day or two the Quill sailed
for Manila.
We now commenced procuring a cargo for the Glide. Having got on board
about four hundred picul, and the beche de mer getting scarce, the
captain thought it better to shift our quarters to the island of
Angalore, where we were told by natives it was very plenty. So Capt.
Archer made an agreement with a Myambooa chief to go to Angalore and
have a house built before we went with the ship. The chief immediately
started in his canoe, accompanied by the chief mate with a plan of the
house. In a few days they got a house built one hundred feet long by
twenty wide. We then proceeded to Angalore, where we anchored about
three-quarters of a mile from the shore. Here the natives brought us
the beche de mer as fast as we could take care of it, which enabled us
to soon secure our cargo.
It was now the latter part of March, 1830. Having nearly finished our
cargo, and being out of hogs and none to be got in this neighborhood,
the captain told me I must get some hogs somewhere, so I made a bargain
with the chief of Bratter to go to his town, which was about sixty
miles from the ship, and get a supply, for which he was to have a keg
of powder. A canoe was prepared and I took with me a musket, powder
and shot and a few articles for small trade, and started. Soon after
leaving the ship the weather became squally and rainy, so we landed
at a neighboring village and put up for the night. Having much bad
weather, it took us six or seven days to get to the island of Ingaun.
From there I saw a ship lying at anchor at Ovalau, about three miles
distant. I immediately procured a small canoe and natives to work her,
and started for the ship, but before we arrived it grew dark and rainy,
so we landed on the shore at a small village, where I spent a sleepless
night, having very sore eyes and surrounded by innumerable mosquitoes.
In the morning, after eating a breakfast of boiled yams, I pulled off
for the ship, which I found to be the Clay, Capt. Mellitt, from Salem.
I informed him who I was, where I was from, and my business, and that
the Glide would be ready for sea on my return. He wished me to join
his ship, offering me the same wages, but I told him I could not agree
to it without the consent of Capt. Archer. After stopping an hour or
two and learning as much news as I could remember, he gave me letters
for the Glide and I took my leave. Among the letters I found several
for myself from home. I cannot describe my feelings on reading these
epistles from my sisters nor can they be imagined by anyone who has not
been in a similar situation. It was nearly six years since I had heard
a word from home.
I returned to the village, where the chief was waiting for me. He was
very inquisitive to know what ship it was, who was master, what he was
after, etc. We immediately got under way for Bratter, which was six
or eight miles distant. On our passage we stopped at a small island,
uninhabited, to shoot some birds, which were very plentiful around the
shore. The natives told me that this island belonged to the Spirits
and if I shot the birds they would be angry and cause some accident to
befall us. I, however, paid no regard to their superstitious fears, but
shot as many as I wanted. In getting under way again the sail caught
so that in hoisting it they tore a large hole. This they regarded as
punishment for shooting the Great Spirit's birds. We repaired the sail
and steered for Bratter. We soon arrived at the entrance of a small
crooked river, took in our sail and poled the canoe up to the town.
Here I was detained about a week by bad weather. During this time I
visited the Clay, which had got under way from Ovalau and anchored
near this place. I spent an evening on board the Clay and returned to
Bratter, taking with me a man who had been cast away near the island in
a Sydney whaler.
Having collected a hundred hogs and the weather being somewhat better,
we started with our hogs in eight canoes. After getting out, the
weather grew so bad we landed at Ingram, had a hog baked under ground,
and with yams and tarrow we lived well for one day. The weather
continued boisterous for two days. It then moderated and we made sail
for the ship, which was about fifty miles from us. After running about
half our distance the wind blew so strong we struck our big mast and
sail and set the small one. The wind still increased until it became so
rugged that it was with difficulty that our canoes could be kept free
of water. We continued on some time in this way, until the natives were
quite exhausted with bailing.
Fearing they would give out and our canoe being old and leaky and
heavily loaded, I persuaded the chief to throw the big mast and yard
overboard, and told him if that was not sufficient we must heave some
hogs over, as the canoe was now half full of water, which was all the
time gaining, the other canoes nearly out of sight, and the nearest
land twenty miles off. After throwing overboard the mast and yard we
managed to get the water out and were enabled to keep her free.
About dark we arrived at the village of Umbawaller. Here we remained
for the night. We were now about twenty miles from the ship. Next
morning we got under way with a fine breeze and pleasant weather and
at night landed on a small island in Wylain bay, about a mile from
the ship. There being no huts here we slept on the grass. By daylight
next morning we were under way for the ship, where we safely arrived,
having been absent twenty days. I was welcomed back with three hearty
cheers from the crew, who had given me up for lost. The hogs were taken
on board and paid for at the rate of twenty for a musket; the chief
received his keg of powder for his services and they all went off well
satisfied.
Chapter VII.
SPEAKS NANTUCKET SHIP--RETURNS TO FEEJEES--SHIPWRECKED
AGAIN--PASSAGE FOR HOME ON SCHOONER--BACK IN
NANTUCKET AFTER NINE YEARS' ABSENCE.
The ship was now ready for sea, and on the 24th of April, 1830, we got
under way and steered out, but not being able to find a passage through
the main reef before night, put back and anchored at the Island of
Anganger. Here we experienced a severe gale, sent down topgallant yards
and masts and housed the topmasts. We rode out the gale, which lasted
2 days, without any damage, then got under way and went to Myambooa.
We sailed from here the 28th, got clear of the islands and shaped our
course for Manila.
Nothing out of the common course occurred during the passage. We
entered the strait of St. Bernardino on the 19th of June and arrived at
Caveeta on the 25th. After receiving a visit from the health officer
Capt. Archer, with a boat's crew, went to Manila. The next morning the
boat returned. While lying here the schooner Antarctic of New York,
Capt. Morell, arrived, having lost his mate and thirteen seamen, who
were killed by the savages. On the 28th we received orders from the
captain to come to Manila with the ship, and in the afternoon got under
way, ran into Manila roads and came to among the shipping.
After selling the cargo, Capt. Archer concluded to fit out for another
voyage to the islands. I was in hopes he would take a cargo for the
United States, as I was quite tired of the beche de mer business and
was anxious to get home, but in this I was disappointed. Capt. Archer
offered to get me a passage to Canton in an American ship which was
lying here, so I concluded to take my discharge and take passage to
Canton. I accordingly settled with Capt. Archer and took my things
on board the Canton ship. I stopped on board of her two days and was
informed by her officers that I should probably have to stop in Canton
two or three months before there would be an opportunity to go to
America. This discouraged me from taking this method to get home,
thinking it would about use up what little saving I had made. I then
decided I would join the Glide again if I could get fair wages and
continue in her till she went. I borrowed the ship's boat and went to
Capt. Archer, told him my determination and offered to go with him for
twenty dollars per month which, after some hesitation, he agreed to
give me.
About the 20th of July, 1830, we sailed for the islands. After
getting through the straits we hauled to the northward and crossed
the North Pacific Ocean in about the latitude of 30 degrees. During
our passage across here, which is called the coast of Japan, we saw
a great number of whales and several whale ships. We spoke the ship
Zenas Coffin, of Nantucket, Capt. Joy, and two New Bedford ships. We
continued our passage for the Sandwich Islands, where we arrived and
anchored at the island of Mowee on the 8th of October. Here there were
several Nantucket ships and men, and it seemed almost like home to me
for a while. Among them was a cousin of mine who could tell me much
interesting news from home. The time passed very agreeably. We procured
supplies and on the 15th sailed for the Feejees.
Nothing of consequence occurred during our passage until about the
middle of November, when we made Perhhyns island, a low island situated
in 9 degrees 01' South Latitude and 157 degrees 35' West Longitude.
While running along the shore of this island we saw three or four
canoes coming towards us. We backed the maintopsail and waited for
them. When they got within a short distance of us they set up a
terrible shouting and yelling, brandishing their clubs and making all
manner of threatening gestures, while still more canoes could be seen
coming, but we were well armed and manned and did not fear them. Seeing
they were about to surround the ship, the captain ordered a musket
fired over their heads as they were crossing the bow, but they paid no
regard to it. They came alongside on both sides. We tried to entice
them on board, but they would not come. Each one held his spear in his
hand ready for use.
Finding there was nothing to be got from them we braced forward the
main yard and soon left them astern. They continued following us for
some time. Thinking they might come on board, we again backed the
maintopsail and let them come alongside. They clambered out of their
canoes into the main and mizzen chains still grasping their spears.
Capt. Archer turned back-to to them and stooped to take something off
the hencoop, when a fellow in the mizzen chains let fly his spear at
his head. It grazed his neck hard enough to break the skin. A volley
was immediately fired upon them on both sides, and some were run
through with boarding pikes. They all jumped or fell overboard. We cut
adrift their canoes from alongside, braced full, and left them to pick
up their dead and wounded. Some of the crew were anxious to attack
them, but Capt. Archer told them there had been too much blood shed
already.
This island was nearly covered with coconut trees. The warriors were
very dark colored. There were a few women with them who were much
lighter colored and had remarkably smooth skins. They had nothing in
their canoes except instruments of war consisting of spears, lances and
clubs. Some of them had on necklaces made of hair very neatly braided
and where the ends were fastened they had a finger nail secured on.
We continued our course for the Feejees, where we arrived the last of
November and commenced business. We had a beche de mer house built
on Cambo point, which was about twenty miles from where the ship lay
and about three from Ambow village. There being a number of castaway
sailors here, they were employed to assist me in curing the beche de
mer.
We had not been here long before we had a very severe gale from the N.
W. One night I spent in sleepless anxiety, knowing the ship lay much
exposed to the wind and sea. I hardly thought it possible for her to
ride out the gale. But I was relieved next day from my apprehension by
David Whippey, who arrived from the ship. He told me she parted her
chain and rode by the hemp cable till the gale was over, when that
parted, being nearly chaffed off by the rocks. Having nothing left but
a kedge and hawser she drifted in towards the island and came very
near getting on the rocks but, getting a favorable flaw of wind from
the land, they were enabled to clear the rocks and were then safe but
without anchors. They sent to the Island of Somoson and bought the Brig
Faun's anchors, for which they gave six muskets. Two boats were sent
to me with articles of trade and information that the ship was going
to the Island of Mathawater to carry on the beche de mer business and
leave me to procure what I could in her absence. In looking over my
trade I found there was not enough of some articles and, as the ship
was about to leave, I went on board to get what I needed.
When I got on board I found everything in great confusion. The second
mate had gone on shore in the morning to cut an anchor stock, when they
were attacked by the natives and two men killed, the rest narrowly
escaping to their boat. After getting to the boat the officer fired
at the natives and killed one. Two boats were then fitted out from
the ship well armed and landed, but the natives fled into the woods.
The bodies of our two men were taken on board and afterwards decently
buried on shore at the village of Labooca.
The captain informed me that the natives were getting to be very
troublesome and had made two attempts to take the ship, but their
design was discovered in time to prevent it. The first time they came
off in canoes, about fifty of them. Some came on one side and some the
other. The second mate chanced to look over the side and saw the chains
full of clubs and other instruments and told the captain that they were
about to attack the ship, when all hands were called to arms. As soon
as the natives saw a muster on board they jumped into canoes and went
on shore. A few days afterwards they came off again on pretention of
selling mats, under which they had their arms concealed, but their
scheme was discovered in time to be prepared for them.
Fortunately for us, I brought off a chief with me who wished to visit
the ship. When I told him that we had two men killed by the natives
of Ovalau he was very much frightened. I told him he need not be
frightened, but he was a prisoner for the present. The captain told me
to get everything we had on shore off to the ship. We went to Camber
with two boats to take off our property. When we arrived we found the
men that I left in care of the establishment much alarmed, fearing
an attack from the natives. They had been under arms all night. The
natives had been very insolent and troublesome during my absence. We
immediately commenced loading our boats and five or six canoes which I
hired for the purpose.
When the natives found their chief was detained they very readily
assisted us to get everything to the boats and behaved very civilly,
but I have no doubt if we had not had the chief on board they would
have robbed and perhaps killed us all. But they well knew that their
chief would have to suffer if they committed any depredations and they
valued him more than all we had. We got our boats loaded and made the
best of our way for the ship. We got alongside the ship towards night,
and when we got everything on board we discharged the canoes and the
chief, much to his satisfaction.
About the middle of January, 1831, we left the island of Ovalau for
Ambooa, but finding the beche de mer very scarce at Ambooa we went to
Angalore. Here we commenced curing the beche de mer. We had obtained
about four hundred piculs, when our house caught fire and burned to the
ground, consuming about a hundred piculs of the beche de mer. We soon
got another house built, but the natives became troublesome, annoying
us in every manner possible, both night and day, stealing everything
they could get hold of and continually insulting some of our party in
the grossest manner, which we dare not resent.
I bore it until it became past endurance and I began to fear that they
had still worse intentions. I then went on board the ship and informed
the captain of the conduct of the natives and my fears. He went on
shore with me and was soon satisfied that it would be imprudent to stop
longer and immediately made preparations for leaving. Next morning the
boats were sent on shore, into which we put everything of value, set
fire to our house, and went on board.
From here we went to Mathawater, where we continued our business till
the 20th of March, when a hurricane commenced from E. N. E. We sent
down our light spars, housed our topmasts, sent down lower yards and
got everything as snug as possible, but about midnight our anchors
began to drag and the foremast was cut away, which fell over the
starboard side. Directly the mainmast went by the board, taking with it
the head of the mizzenmast three or four feet below the top. The ship
still continued to drag, but we could do nothing more but resignedly
wait the result, being now wholly at the mercy of the wind and sea.
The wind soon shifted to N. W. and blew apparently with double fury.
After drifting about seven miles she brought up on a sand spit near the
shore. We had on board two chiefs who advised us to stop on board until
it moderated and they would see us safe to Mathawater, but the natives
began to swim off in considerable numbers, and the captain, fearing
they would get to quarreling for plunder and endanger our lives, got
his trunk and some few articles into a boat and with a crew went
ashore, but were met on landing by a party of natives and plundered of
everything.
I remained on board until noon, when our decks and indeed every part
of our ship were filled with natives collecting such articles as best
suited them. They took all the chests and filled them with their
plunder. One chief got about 80 whales' teeth tied up in a blanket and
attempted to swim on shore with them. He got a short distance from the
ship when they became so heavy he had to let them go, and returned to
the ship nearly exhausted in struggling to save his treasure.
All the ship's company being safely landed, save five or six of us,
we took the small boat and such articles as we thought we could get
off with and left the ship, landing abreast where she lay. We took our
things and started for the village of Mathawater, but we had not gotten
far from the boat before we were met by a party of natives who robbed
us of everything we had and left us to continue our journey. After a
very tedious travel of about seven miles we arrived at the village,
sore-footed and heartsick enough--at least I was.
We found our beche de mer party at this village had lost their house
during the gale and had given themselves up to the natives, who
furnished them with another house, treated them with every kindness,
and never took any of their property nor molested them in any way. We
were also treated with the greatest kindness and furnished by the chief
with everything to make us comfortable, but our number being so great
we thought we were bearing rather hard upon his hospitality; so seven
of us concluded to go to Ambow. We took our small boat and, after four
days' passage, arrived at the island of Coroo. Here we learned from the
natives that another vessel was cast away at Ambow, but we could not
ascertain her name. In a few days we arrived at Ambow and found the
wrecked vessel was the brig Niagara, from Salem. She was driven from
her anchors in the gale of the 20th of March. The natives took out the
cargo and left her lying on the flats.
After remaining a few weeks at Ambow we went with the natives to Raver
to attend a great feast. At the feast they had one thousand hogs cooked
and yams and tarrow in proportion. At the close of the grand feast they
had a great dance as usual on such occasions. After about two weeks the
rest of the crew returned. I preferred stopping here awhile. I lived
with a young chief, brother to the king.
Here I remained until the arrival of the barque Perne, of Salem, Capt.
Egleston, some time in October. I then went to Ambow, where I met the
captain of the Perne at the king's house. I asked him for a passage;
he said he did not think he could accommodate me as he already had
several more than his complement. I said no more, but next morning I
went on board the barque and asked him again for a berth. His answer
was, "No, I won't." I turned short upon my heel, got into my canoe and
shoved off, when Capt. Archer saw me, called me back and asked why I
did not go in the vessel. I told him I had tried to get a berth but
was refused and should have to wait for another opportunity. He told
me to stop a moment and he would see the captain. After talking with
Capt. Egleston he informed me I could go in the barque, so I stepped
on board. The same day a schooner belonging to Oahu arrived here,
having on board the remainder of the Glide's crew. I remained on board
the Perne about three months, when the schooner Charles Dogget, Capt.
Driver, of Salem, arrived. Five of us then left the Perne and went on
board the schooner. After getting a full cargo of beche de mer among
the islands I left her at Raver on the 3rd of April, 1832, when she
sailed for Manila.
After remaining here about three months the Perne arrived. I had now
made up my mind to leave the island at the first opportunity. The Perne
was bound to the island of Rotumah. I thought if I went there I might
get a chance on board of some whaler and be enabled to earn something
before I went home. A man by the name of William Perkins, who lived
with me at the young chief's at Raver, went on board the barque with me
to engage passage to Rotumah.
The captain consented to take us, so we went on shore, took a time when
the chief had gone on a visit to another village, picked up our things
and went on board the Perne, much to the regret of the chief's mother,
who wished us to stop until her son's return, but we told her we were
only going a short cruise. We left in her care for her son a musket,
a keg of powder and a few pounds of lead in hopes it would be some
consolation for our leaving. After stopping here a few days trading for
turtle shell, we got under way for the island of Somoson.
In passing Coroo we took on board a white man who left a Sydney
whaling schooner. On our arrival at Somoson we found five white men
who escaped from Wallis island at the time of the massacre. These
men informed me that the natives at Wallis island had taken the ship
Oldham, of London, and massacred all hands excepting a small boy, who
was saved by an old woman who they believed had supernatural power and
could inflict any punishment she thought proper if they disobeyed her.
She took the boy and tabooed him and the natives dare not trouble him.
* * * * *
The particulars of the massacre above alluded to were as follows: A
man by the name of Minina, of and from Oahu, went there in a schooner
with a gang to procure beche de mer, tortoise shell, etc., which he
sent to the Sandwich islands by the schooner. He took possession of a
small island in the harbor, fortified it and called himself king, but
for his arbitrary, oppressive and unjust conduct to the natives they
rose and killed his whole crew with the exception of those men of whom
I have spoken. The conduct of the captain and crew of the Oldham was
as censurable as Minina's. They went on shore and took their women
by force and carried them off to their ship, many of them wives, and
by many acts of wanton levity and even cruelty the natives became so
enraged that they took a time when two boats' crew were on shore,
attacked those on board and on shore at the same time, and killed all
excepting the boy.
* * * * *
After remaining a few days at Somoson collecting tortoise shell we took
on board those Wallis island men and got under way with the intention
of going to Wallis island and retake the Oldham. On our arrival there
we sent in two boats well armed to reconnoitre. The boats were absent
so long we became alarmed for their safety, and fired guns and sent
up rockets to hasten their return, which had the desired effect. The
reason for their long absence was because the distance from the ship
to the shore was much greater than we had supposed. They found that an
English man-of-war brig had been there and set fire to the ship and,
after losing one man and killing many of the natives, they took the
survivor (the boy) and carried him to Port Jackson.
The ship being destroyed and nothing left for us to do here, we
proceeded to Rotumah, where we arrived the latter part of July, 1832.
Here fourteen of us were discharged who were passengers from the
Feejees. I remained here ten weeks, when the whaling schooner New
Zealand, Capt. Rapsey, of Sidney, arrived. I went on board and applied
for a berth with seven others of our party, but having a full crew and
being scant of provisions, we were refused, but afterwards some of his
men ran away and among them was his cooper, so I shipped as cooper to
receive the same lay that the old cooper had.
We took wood and water and were about to leave when a large whale was
seen from masthead, which we took, after getting one boat stove. The
weather coming on rugged, we lost part of the head but saved 82 barrels
from him. We beat up under the island and landed our stoven boat and
the carpenter to repair her. When done, we sailed for the Kingsmill
group of islands. Here we spoke ship Milo, Capt. West, of New Bedford,
with 808 barrels of oil, and a Sidney barque with many of her crew sick
with the scurvey and bound to Rotumah.
We saw a great number of whales around here but only took about 300
barrels. We used up some three months and put away for Rotumah,
lacking about ten tons of a full cargo and expecting to get that in
our passage. We proceeded to Rotumah, got a supply of wood, water and
provisions and sailed for Sydney, where we arrived the last day of
December. On our arrival the vessel and cargo was seized, but the crew
was paid off for 65 tons, the amount reported.
I stopped in Sydney till the 18th of February, 1833, when I sailed in
schooner Clementine belonging to the Isle of France, for New Castle,
after coal. We took in at New Castle about 100 tons of coal and
returned to Sydney, where we discharged on board of different ships
about 60 tons. Then took in a cargo of cedar, barley and cheese, and
on the 18th of March sailed for Hobart Town, where we arrived after
about 10 days' passage. Here we discharged our cargo and took in a few
bags of potatoes and about ten tons of stone ballast and on the 7th
of April sailed again for Sydney where, after a very rough, boisterous
passage, we arrived on the 23rd of the same month.
After our arrival I continued attached to the schooner for some
time. At length the ship Tybee, of Salem, Capt. Mellet, arrived. I
immediately went on board, found he wanted men, and engaged a berth. I
then got my discharge from the schooner and joined the Tybee. We first
took in a lot of hides, horns, hoops and bones. After filling the lower
hold with these articles, we filled between decks with New Zealand flax
and got ready for sea.
On the 9th of June, 1833, we got under way for the United States, after
being searched by the search boat for runaway convicts. We steered out
clear of the land, discharged the pilot and steered for New Zealand.
On the 16th, fine moderate weather, we passed the Bay of Islands,
New Zealand, and continued our course of Cape Horn, having strong
winds and fair until near the longitude of the Cape. We then had much
light easterly winds with plenty of snow. Went as far South as 63
degrees, where we saw large fields of ice extending to the horizon to
the southward of us as far as we could see from masthead. I suffered
very much from the cold, having been so long in a warm climate and
my wardrobe now not the most abundant. But after a while we got by
the Cape, made Staten Island and continued our course for Pernambuco.
On our passage spoke an English sloop-of-war from Rio Janeiro for
Valparaiso.
We arrived at Pernambuco the 22d of September, got some bread and other
supplies, and left for America. We had fine winds and fair weather
until in the neighborhood of Bermuda, where spoke schooner Baltimore,
from Para. The weather was very squally, with heavy thunder. The
schooner which was a short distance from us was struck by lightning,
which shivered her mast, then passed down below the deck and went out
through her foretopgallant mast, took a piece out of the head of her
foreside about six inches above water.
We continued our course homeward. On the 26th of October, 1833, about
midnight, we made Cape Cod light. At 9 a. m. took a pilot and about
noon came to anchor in Salem harbor.
I got discharged and paid off and took the stage for Boston, where I
found a Nantucket vessel in which I engaged a passage. After a few days
I arrived at Nantucket, after an absence of nine years. I was received
with much joy by my friends and relatives and I believe heartily
welcomed by all the inhabitants.
THE END
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