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Title: The harness makers' illustrated manual
Author: W. N. Fitz-Gerald
Release date: May 4, 2026 [eBook #78603]
Language: English
Original publication: New York: The author, 1880
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/78603
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL ***
Transcriber’s Notes:
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in the original text.
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[Illustration: GOLDSMITH MAID, WITH TRACK HARNESS.]
THE
HARNESS MAKERS’
ILLUSTRATED
MANUAL.
SECOND EDITION.
A PRACTICAL GUIDE BOOK FOR MANUFACTURERS AND MAKERS
OF HARNESS, PADS, GIG SADDLES, ETC.,
CONTAINING
DIRECTIONS FOR SELECTING, CUTTING, AND PREPARING
LEATHER; TABLES OF LENGTHS AND WIDTHS FOR
CUTTING TRACK, SINGLE AND DOUBLE ROAD,
COUPÉ, COACH, EXPRESS, TEAM AND FARM
HARNESS, HALTERS, HORSE BOOTS, ETC.;
RECIPES FOR PREPARING BLACKINGS, STAINS, OILS,
AND LEATHER VARNISHES;
HINTS ON RENOVATING AND REPAIRING HARNESS;
NOTES ON HARNESS MOUNTINGS, WITH DESCRIPTIONS AND
ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE MOST POPULAR
STYLES AND KINDS.
ADAPTED TO THE OFFICE AND THE WORKSHOP.
BY
W. N. FITZ-GERALD,
NEW YORK.
1880.
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880,
By WM. N. FITZ-GERALD,
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
HARNESS LEATHER.
PAGE
The peculiar Characteristics of Leather—Test by which
the Quality may be determined—Effect of strong Acids in
Coloring—Impure Oils—Kinds of Harness Leather—Oak,
Hemlock, and Union Tanned; the Nature of each—Hides
suitable for making Harness Leather—Causes of “Gum,
Spew, or Fry”—The Effect of Dampness—Weights to be
selected for all Kinds of Harness—Grain Leather for Folds 21
CHAPTER II.
RUSSET LEATHER.
Selecting Rein Leather—Stains—Comparative Value of
good and poor Stock—Hand Part Leather—Graining in
the Workshop—Buff Leather—Loop Leather—The Necessity
of a Mellow Grain; uniform Thickness unimportant—Buying
Leather—Weight Stock—Unreliability of the rough
Brand—Backs—Cropping—Trimmed Stock 33
CHAPTER III.
PATENT LEATHER.
Glazed Leather—The Uses to which it is put—Quality of
Hides—Splits, how designated—The Effect of Splitting
upon the Grain—Varnishing, Drying, and Finishing—Enamel
Leather—Texture, Color, and Finish—Stretching Leather
injurious to the Fibre—Care of Patent Leather—When the
best Leather is made—July and August unfavorable months 40
CHAPTER IV.
CUTTING HARNESS.
How to cut to avoid Waste—Value of Scraps—The
Responsibility of the Cutter—Illustration of a Side of
Weight Stock—Directions for Cutting—Dividing the Side
to the best Advantage—Objections to the Splitting Machine
—Cutting a Harness from one Side—Illustration of a trimmed
Side—Weight—Details for Cutting the different Straps 45
CHAPTER V.
PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER.
Wetting the Stock—Drying—How long to soak—Testing
Strap—Trimming the Flesh Side—Applying Tallow—Straps
not to be disturbed until the Water has dried out—Cleaning
and Slicking—The Effect of recurrying—Blacking Leather
for a Single-Strap Harness—Wetting common Stock 53
CHAPTER VI.
MEASURING FOR HARNESS.
Lack of System—Result of improper Lengths—Length of Hame
Tugs—Lengths adopted by prominent Manufacturers—Harness
for Horses of different Sizes—Lengths governed by Localities 58
CHAPTER VII.
TABLES OF LENGTHS.
No. 1. Single-Strap Track Harness—No. 2. Single Road
Harness—No. 3. Single Harness (Breast Collar)—No. 4.
Single Harness (Hame Collar)—No. 5. Heavy Coupé Harness
—No. 6. Double Road Harness—No. 7. Short Tug Coach Harness
—No. 8. Long Tug Coach Harness—No. 9. English Four-in-Hand
—No. 10. Tandem—No. 11. Single Express—No. 12. Heavy
Express—No. 13. Long Tug Team Harness—No. 14. Long Tug Farm
Harness—No. 15. Wagon Harness with adjustable Trees—No. 16.
Adjustable Pad Double Harness—No. 17. Pennsylvania Wagon
Harness—No. 18. Stage Harness—No. 19. Bitting Harness—No.
20. Cart Harness—No. 21. Mule Harness—No. 22. Short Tug
Butt Chain Harness—Trimmings for Carriage Harness 64
CHAPTER VIII.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.
Result of Neglect in learning the Trade—Want of System—
Importance of the Fitter and Stitcher working in Unison—
Wetting the Stock—Skiving and slicking the Straps—Fitting
up the Shaft Tugs, Docks, and Winker Brace—Finishing the
Edges—Prepared Tallow—Gum Tragacanth—Cutting and preparing
the Patent Leather—Finishing up Rounds—Making Docks—
Importance of good Patterns—How to prepare the Patterns 112
CHAPTER IX.
MAKING SINGLE-STRAP TRACK HARNESS.
Its Origin—Skill required in making up—How to attain the
best Results—Steer Hides the best—Weight of Side required
—Sectional Drawings—Safety Strap—Half Kemble Jackson check 122
CHAPTER X.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS.
Mistaken Ideas regarding Team Harness—Selecting Stock—
Weights to be used—General Directions for cutting and
fitting—Pads—Filling Folds—Bridles, the Importance of
proper Proportions—Lines, Lengths—Mountings, the Importance
of Strength—Stitching to be done with white Thread—Coarse
stitching the strongest—Fitting and stitching Traces—Final
Finish—Heavy ornamental Truck Harness—Bridles, Coach Style
—Wheel Harness without Pads—Traces and Safes, how cut—
Lead Harness—Loin Straps—Mountings—Collars 128
CHAPTER XI.
MAKING GIG SADDLES.
Cleaning and treeing up the Tree—Preparing the Seat
Leather—Preparing the Frame—Making Jockeys—Flopping
off—Making Loops—Cutting and fitting Points—Back
Bands—Quality of Leather—Making the Pads—Stuffing—
Materials used—Changing Shape of Patterns 139
CHAPTER XII.
PADS FOR COACH AND TEAM HARNESS.
Improvements—Patent Pads—Directions for making Coach
Pads—Socket Piece, how to cut—Fitting up—Cutting
Felt for the Pad—Stitching, etc—Hair-stuffed Pads—
Directions for making—Soft Pad illustrated—Cutting Tops
and Sides—Hard Pad, Directions for making—Illustrated—
Plain Pads, Directions for making 149
CHAPTER XIII.
MAKING HARNESS LOOPS.
Kinds of Loops in use—Patent Loops, how made—Advantages
of hand made Loops—Selecting Stock—Wetting the Leather
—Fullness necessary—Creasing—Back Clamp Iron—Working
up Sides before creasing—Coloring and finishing—Pressed
Loops, stitching on—How they are made—Time needed to press
—Variety of Patterns—How cheap Harness are improved by
their use 161
CHAPTER XIV.
STITCHING HARNESS.
The End to be attained—Thread, Size and Number of Strands
—White Thread the strongest—Making up the Thread—Waxing
before twisting—The Kind of Wax for specific Purposes—
Importance of Care in Stitching—How the Stitches are laid
—Irregularity produced by not drawing the Threads evenly
—To cause both Sides to appear alike—Points to be observed 168
CHAPTER XV.
MAKING ROUND REINS.
Good Stock a Necessity—Directions for Cutting—Dampening
the Leather—Making the Stop—Marking off for the Billet—
Filling up and rounding—Board Iron, how made—Rounding and
trimming—Stain, how made—Advantage of using Shellac—Rein
Ends, illustrated 175
CHAPTER XVI.
COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES.
The most ornate Part of the Harness—Winkers, Style and
Finish—“Hinging”—English Coach Bridle Cuttings—
Illustrations of various Styles of Bridles—Crown Pieces 182
CHAPTER XVII.
RIDING BRIDLES.
Uniformity of Style—How they are named—Cuttings for various
Kinds—Illustration—Leather used—English Russet—Buff
Leather—Stitching not used for ornamenting 196
CHAPTER XVIII.
HALTERS.
The Varieties—United States Government Halter—Spanish
Halter—French Halter—Training Halter—Bitting Halter
—Stable Halter—Yankee Halter—Double Cheek Halter—
Slip Halter—Team Halter—Cuttings and Illustrations 205
CHAPTER XIX.
HORSE BOOTS.
Success in making Knee, Shin, Ankle, and Combination Boots
—Directions for making—Illustrations for Weights—How made
—Illustrations 224
CHAPTER XX.
HARNESS MOUNTINGS.
Classes and Styles—Plated, close and electro—Grades of Silver
for Close Plate—How to determine the Quality—Electro Plate
less durable, but cheaper—Tarnishing not an Evidence of Impurity
—Gold Plate—Nickel—Its Color and Advantages—Brass not popular
—Oroide, its Color—Not desirable except as a Base for Gilding
—Aluminum the most expensive Metal—German Silver, its
superiority as a white Metal—Covered Mountings—Leather and
Composition—Leather used—Liability to rip—Improvements made
—Rubber-covered—When patented—Description of Process of
Manufacture—Celluloid-covered—Description of Manufacture—
Tinned—XC Plate—Japanned—Patented Styles—Illustrations of
Terrets, Hooks, etc. 249
CHAPTER XXI.
BUCKLES.
Patent Trace—Harness—Trace—Collar—Center Bar—Popular
Styles—Illustrations 271
CHAPTER XXII.
BITS AND BITTING HARNESS.
Brutal Devices—Popular Styles—Snaffle—Dexter—Hanoverian—
Half Cheek Trotting Snaffle—Metals used—Steel not desirable
—Unreliability of Malleable Iron—System of numbering—How
designated—Illustrations—Bitting Harness—Wooden Jockey,
illustrated—Patent Jockey, illustrated 281
CHAPTER XXIII.
REPAIRING HARNESS.
As important as making new Stock—False Directions—Cleaning
the Leather an important Consideration—When to repair—
Cleaning the Surface before oiling—How to soften old Leather
—Pure Neat’s-foot Oil the best—Castor Oil, its qualities—
Tallow the only reliable Grease—How to apply Grease—Gum,
how to remove it—Patent Leather—Varnish only will restore
the Lustre—How to clean 290
CHAPTER XXIV.
CARE OF HARNESS IN THE FACTORY AND STABLE.
Durability dependent upon Treatment—Consumers not acquainted
with the Peculiarities of Stock—The great Destroyer—Care of
Harness in Stock—White Mold—Importance of removing it
immediately—Cleaning Mountings—Pegs for hanging Harness—Daub,
how made—How to keep Russet Strapping—The Manufacturer’s duty
to his Customers—Directions for the Care of Harness in the
Stable—Mountings not to be scoured—How to clean 296
CHAPTER XXV.
LEATHER BLACKING.
Stains, Varnishes, and Polishes 302
CHAPTER XXVI.
RECIPES.
Miscellaneous Recipes for the Workshop and Harness Room 317
INDEX OF PLATES.
Goldsmith Maid, Track Harness Frontispiece.
PAGE
Double Road Harness 20
Coupé Harness 33
Phaeton Harness 53
Coach Harness 61
Breast Collar, Single Harness 113
Hame Collar, Single Harness 122
Team Harness 129
Heavy Draft Harness 137
Georgia Wagon Harness 161
PREFACE.
This book originated from a desire to furnish harness makers with a
condensed practical guide suited to the workshop, office, salesroom,
and stable. It treats of leather as furnished to the harness maker by
the currier, its texture, strength, adaptability for specific uses; how
to cut, fit, and finish; measuring for harness; complete tables for
lengths and widths for cutting the various classes in use, whether for
the carriage, farm, or road; bridles, halters, horse boots, mountings,
bits, etc.
The illustrations represent standard styles and kinds of articles used
by the trade, and guides for making up.
In the hints on repairing and caring for harness, a large amount of
information is furnished the manufacturer and consumer, in a condensed
form. The recipes for blacks, stains, varnishes, polishes, etc., have
been tested and found reliable; the whole making a methodical manual
indispensable to the progressive harness maker, and useful to every
horse owner or other person interested in harness or saddlery. It is
the only book of the kind published in the English language, and
supplies a much-needed want. Every care has been taken to present the
subjects treated on in the plainest manner, and to avoid errors. The
author confidently believes that benefit will result from following the
instructions given, and the standard of harness making be elevated.
Should this anticipation be realized, the time spent in its preparation
will be compensated for.
INTRODUCTION.
The manufacture of saddlery and harness, exclusive of all collateral
branches, stands thirty-fourth in magnitude out of the two hundred
and fifty-eight specified industries tabulated in the census report
of 1870. At that time there were in the United States 7,607 saddlery
and harness establishments, giving employment to 23,557 workmen; all
but 841 were males above 16 years of age; employing a capital of
$13,935,961; paying in wages $7,046,207; for materials, $16,068,310;
and producing goods to the value of $32,709,981. Missouri stands first
in the list in value of products, but fifth in the number of workmen
employed, and second in the wages paid. New-York stands second in value
of products, first in every other particular. Pennsylvania, Ohio,
Illinois, and New-Jersey are next in order.
By the total figures it will be seen that the average wages of the
workmen is about $299 a year, being $78 below the average for the whole
country in 1870, and $10 above the average of 1860.
There are but eleven branches of industry in which the number of
establishments exceeds those of saddlery and harness, and in view of
this fact, the average rate of wages is remarkably good. The harness
maker is called upon to supply harness, saddlery, etc., for 7,145,370
horses, 1,125,415 mules and asses, a total of 8,270,785 animals; yet
the total value of products of a year show but $4 a head for each
animal—a figure disproportionately small, and one which explains, in
part at least, why the trade is less prosperous than it should be. Were
it a business which required the investment of a large capital, the
case would be different; but as it is, the investment of a few hundred
dollars enables a man to engage in a small business which returns him
a moderate living, but one that might be lucrative if conducted in
a proper manner. The harness maker supplies an article of absolute
necessity, and there is no excuse for his placing his prices below fair
business rates. If each man in the business would properly estimate the
cost of every article, and add thereto a fair percentage of profit,
there would be less complaints as to the unprofitableness of the
harness trade. In preparing this manual the author has aimed to give
information of a practical character to the trade, which will enable
those engaged in it to conduct the workshop in a systematic manner. If
this end is accomplished, it will be one important step toward making
the business a profitable and pleasant one.
[Illustration: DOUBLE ROAD HARNESS.]
THE HARNESS MAKERS’ ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.
CHAPTER I.
HARNESS LEATHER.
Before entering upon details respecting the practical work of the
harness maker, I shall give some general directions regarding the
various kinds of leather used, its adaptation to specific grades and
patterns of harness, together with such other details as may serve to
assist the manufacturer in selecting his stock.
The familiar adage, “There is nothing like leather,” is an old one, and
it is true in more senses than one. In the first place, leather is an
article of such peculiar structure that those who have spent a lifetime
in working it can not give any reliable rules by which an inexperienced
person may judge to a certainty of its quality. The grain may be fine,
close, and to the eye all that can be desired, the flesh side smooth,
of good color, and finely finished, and yet the quality be such as to
condemn it as soon as it gets into the hands of the workman. On the
other hand, the grain may be coarse and the flesh side badly cleaned,
and yet, for actual wear, it may be of good quality. The hides from
which it was made may have been taken from old or poorly fed cattle,
insufficiently tanned, badly curried with cheap oil and tallow, stuffed
to weigh heavy, blacked with strong acids, which have passed through
the grain and rendered it hard and brittle, of uneven thickness, the
shoulders thin and unfit for general use; all of which faults are of a
serious nature, and yet a long experience, by which the eye and touch
are so educated as to detect almost by intuition defects other than the
most prominent, is the only safe and reliable guide as to the actual
merits of the leather.
There are, however, a few leading tests which assist in the acquiring
of the needful experience. The character of the hide before it was
tanned may be ascertained, in most cases, by close examination. It is a
well-known fact that cattle raised in certain sections of the country
produce much finer grained hides, possessing in a greater degree the
firm, elastic nature necessary for the production of harness leather,
than those raised in other sections. If the hide has been taken from an
old and poor animal, the grain will be coarse, uneven, and irregular,
the neck hard and rough, the flanks thick and flabby, and the
shoulders and hips thin and baggy; if from a young, well-kept animal,
the grain will in most cases be fine, close, and even, the flesh side
smooth and of a good color, and the whole side of nearly uniform
thickness. Grub holes are a sure indication of poor hides, but, as
they can be so easily detected, it is unnecessary to caution buyers to
avoid all having these defects. Short tannage is a very common fault,
but it is one that can be detected by cutting a strip from the hide and
wetting the freshly-cut edge with the tongue: if the color is uniform
throughout, and the cut edge presents a smooth and glassy appearance,
instead of being covered with fine fibres, the tannage is good. If, on
the other hand, the cut edge presents a fuzzy appearance, feels harsh
and rough when dry, and shows a white or light-colored strip through
the center when wet, it is insufficiently tanned, and the wider this
light strip the poorer is the tannage.
It frequently happens that leather which has been well tanned is
injured in the currying, and it is much more difficult to detect faults
arising from this source than those due to short tannages. The grain
may have been injured while being tanned, but it is just as liable to
injury from the use of strong acid blacks, which, while giving it a
deep black color, cause it to become hard and brittle. The best and
most reliable test for detecting this fault is to bend a narrow strip,
flesh sides together, and close it down between the teeth; if the grain
is hard and brittle, it will surely break off short, so as to show
the natural color of the leather underneath. If, however, the leather
is extra heavy, this test will be likely to rupture the grain, whether
the quality be good or bad; but if good, it will have the appearance of
having been torn asunder instead of broken off short. If the hard grain
has been produced by strong acids, which have burned it, a freshly-cut
edge will show to what depth they have penetrated, and there will be
black streaks well down into the fibres below the grain. The use of
impure oils or grease is also a source of much annoyance, it being very
difficult, in fact almost impossible, to detect the fault until after
the harness has been made up and exposed for a time in the showcase,
when the tell-tale gum-spots will appear on the surface, exposing the
fraud, though not until the manufacturer has suffered much loss by
the depreciation in the value of his harness. It sometimes happens
that these gum-spots will appear upon the grain before the side has
been cut. When this is the case the leather may be treated as we have
directed in Chapter V., and future gumming will be prevented.
These points seem to assist in the detection of the above-mentioned
faults, but they can not be relied upon under all circumstances;
frequent handling and close observation will alone give the eye and
touch the training necessary for the intelligent selection of the
different qualities. Good leather, in the language of one of the best
known and most experienced men in the harness leather trade, should
be “solid, but not hard; mellow, but not soft”—qualities that can not
be explained, but which can be detected instantly by one who has the
requisite experience. In this country there are three kinds of leather
employed by harness makers—namely, oak, hemlock, and union (oak and
hemlock) tanned, all of which are used to a considerable extent. All
other conditions being equal, however, oak-tanned leather is by far
the best. It is firmer, but not so hard as hemlock, the fibre is finer
and more dense, and, as a natural result, is not so easily affected
by water; it also works up finer, takes a much better finish, is more
easily worked, and possesses more of the qualities indispensable to
the production of good harness—strength and pliability—than any other
tannage. Hemlock leather is harder; of a dark red color, which greatly
interferes with its taking a good black, and also causes the latter
to assume a dingy brown appearance on exposure to the elements; the
grain is more open and appears coarser; it wets up quickly, and does
not dry out as soft as does oak leather; it is harder to stitch, and
is inferior in strength, particularly when the strap is placed in a
position where the strain comes on a short bend or on the edge. It is
also much heavier. A side of hemlock will weigh from eight to ten per
cent more than a side of oak leather of equal spread and thickness,
a difference that makes up for the margin in price between the two
kinds. “Union” leather is either tanned with mixed oak and hemlock
liquors, or first tanned with hemlock, and afterwards retanned with
oak, the latter operation giving it a much lighter color than it
originally possessed; in some cases the color on the flesh side being
so light as to deceive the buyer who is unacquainted with this kind
of leather. The grain is close and, as a rule, finer than either oak
or hemlock, but for harness this leather is inferior to oak in every
respect, and but a little better than hemlock. It weighs nearly as
heavy as the latter, and possesses no qualities that recommend it to
the buyer who desires good stock.
In some sections of the country, hemlock leather is made with much
care, the hides being closely selected, well tanned, and curried with
the best oil and grease. Prepared in this manner, it gives satisfaction
when not brought into direct competition with oak-tanned stock; but,
no matter how much care may have been exercised, it is inferior to
oak-tanned leather with which the same pains have been taken, and there
is but one condition under which it should receive the preference, and
that is when the choice lies between inferior oak and superior hemlock.
The following general advice may be of value to harness makers and
manufacturers of harness leather. Select hides of young steers or
heifers which were in the best condition when killed: they only possess
the requisites of fineness of grain, uniformity of thickness, and
strength of fibre. A cow or bullock hide is entirely unfitted for
this kind of leather; the butt of the former is liable to be thick
and the shoulder thin, while the latter will be thick at the head and
belly, thin and soft at the butt. Having found such a hide, examine
it further and see that it has not been damaged by scratches. These,
though apparently simple, are very injurious, as they can not be
entirely removed, and will show upon the grain as soon as the leather
is dampened by the workmen. See that there are no warble or grub holes
along the back. These are not likely to be found in hides taken from
cattle that are killed in the summer or fall. Next ascertain whether
the hide has been damaged by the butcher or not. If it has been cut,
it should never be used for harness leather. Length is an important
consideration, and many hides are seriously damaged in this respect
by the butcher having cut the animal’s throat from ear to ear, thus
shortening the hide by severing the cheeks from the body.
Tanning, though not a portion of the harness maker’s business, should
be understood by him so far as to enable him to distinguish between
the various products. Oak-tanned is superior to any other now in use
because of its being tougher and more pliable; but even oak-tanned may
not be good. There are two general methods of tanning: one the sole
leather, by which the leather is made firm and hard; the other the
upper leather, by which the leather is made pliable and tough. By the
first method greater weight is secured, but the quality is unsuited to
the use of the harness maker. Some tanners follow the former method in
part, and thereby secure a greater weight, but they can not produce
a good quality. This leather can be detected while working it by its
hard, sole-leather-like character. It does not work well in rounds,
or when being raised, and is more likely to break when subjected to a
sudden strain.
In addition to these features of tanning, there is what is known as
the short-tanned, this leather coiling like a piece of tin, and when
cut it shows a pale streak through the center. Then there is the limy
leather, with a loose, wrinkled grain, or puffed up beyond its proper
thickness, which will, upon being worked, stretch and fall away to its
natural substance. There is also the black-oak tannage. This leather
shows a greenish-yellow appearance in spots upon the flesh side. It is
soft, and possesses less strength than white-oak leather. Well-tanned
leather is too often injured in being curried; the use of poor oils and
grease causes the “gum,” “spew,” or “fry,” as it is known in different
localities; if properly curried with good oils, this pest of the
harness maker will not appear. Leather that has been well curried will
possess a surface free from roughness or wrinkles, and will be smooth
and silky to the touch.
The buyer, therefore, should insist upon the seller furnishing him with
hides such as have been recommended, reasonably free from scratches,
warble or grub holes, or cuts by the butcher, of fine, mellow tannage,
and curried in the best manner with pure oil and grease. Perfection
is not to be expected; the harness maker should aim to secure leather
possessing the minimum of defects. Hard leather is sometimes made to
feel mellow and to appear tough by being moistened by the currier.
The dampness may be detected by placing the palm of the hand upon the
thickest part of the side. Such leather shrinks in weight, and proves a
poor purchase to the buyer.
Next in importance to the procuring of a good quality of leather is the
selection of that which possesses the requisite weight and strength for
the kinds of harness designed to be made, and the particular parts for
which it is intended.
So well is this understood by leading harness-manufacturers who make
up full lines, that they never cut a harness from a single side, but
select the leather carefully and use a specific grade or weight for
each particular strap; while the leading custom manufacturers purchase
or cut only backs of the best quality. The great majority, however,
buy their leather in small quantities, and by so doing commit the
error of not procuring a proper assortment. As a rule, they select the
weight best adapted to the greater portion of their work, and when
lighter stock is needed they resort to the splitting-machine, entailing
on themselves extra labor, and wasting no inconsiderable amount of
leather, besides materially weakening the straps thus manipulated, as
the portion of the flesh side which is removed is the strongest part of
the stock.
If extra heavy straps are needed, three thicknesses of leather are
used, which in most cases calls for the use of the splitting-machine
to prevent overweight, whereby further loss is incurred. If, instead
of following this course, they would assort the sides so as to provide
themselves with a full line of weights, from six to twenty pounds
a side, they would at all times possess leather adapted to every
requirement except the heaviest truck harness, which calls for the
heavier grades. Light weights are needed for bridles, no matter what
kind of harness is to be made, and, as a rule, sides weighing fourteen
pounds and under can be cut to good advantage for this purpose. Traces,
back-bands, and breeching-straps require heavier leather, and hides
suitable for these particular straps should always be kept on hand.
A few years’ experience will enable any man to determine the proper
weights and proportions for his line of business, and he can procure
assorted stock just as easily as he can any single weight.
Light road-harness of the best quality, whether single or double, is
made up of two thicknesses and stitched throughout. The leather used
should be of the finest quality of light weights, ranging from fourteen
to sixteen pounds to the side for the harness proper, and eight to
twelve pounds for the bridles, these weights being better adapted to
this class of harness than the heavier grades that need to be split in
order to reduce them to the required thickness. The grain is generally
fine and the fibre strong; it fits up well, retains its shape, and
finishes smooth and soft.
The track-harness, which is now one of the most popular styles in use
for trotting-horses, is made up of single straps throughout, excepting
the back-bands. The leather best adapted to this style is that made
from fine-grained, young hides, the weight being about sixteen pounds
to the side for all but the bodies; these, being also single, should be
of a lighter weight, or they will have to be skived off on the under
side to prevent the edges curling up. For bridles, the same weight
should be used as for light road-harness.
The medium grade of light single harness is generally made up with
single straps and lined points. For this style a heavier leather is
required, except for the bridle, in order to obtain the requisite
firmness and strength, the best weight being from sixteen to eighteen
pounds to the side. These weights also answer well for all grades of
single or double harness up to those requiring one and one quarter
inch traces, though it is better to use heavier weights for traces,
hold-backs, and back-bands.
For light coach harness, the best weight is about eighteen pounds to
a side; but if extra heavy traces are used, it is better to select
leather sufficiently heavy to allow of the employment of only two
thicknesses, thus obviating the necessity of a filling-in piece. If
the latter is used, it should be of quite light leather.
Coach and coupé harness require heavy weights, particularly for
traces, hold-backs, back-bands, and breeching-straps; for all other
straps, excepting bridles, eighteen to twenty pounds to a side are
good weights, but the latter should be made from sides weighing about
fourteen pounds.
Light express harness, being made up of single straps, requires the use
of sides weighing from eighteen to twenty pounds each; the bridles,
however, should be made from stock of about the same weights as that
used for coach harness. These weights also answer well for farm and
the lighter grades of team harness, while heavy truck and cart harness
requires the use of the heaviest grades of leather in the market. The
above weights are those of the average spread of oak-tanned sides;
extra large or small hides, or those tanned with hemlock, may be gauged
by these.
Grain leather is much used for folds, and, as a rule, the bellies, or
at least the lower portions of trimmed hides, answer well for this
purpose; though the finest, for coach and light harness, is made from
sides weighing sixteen pounds or under, while for team and truck
harness a heavier grade is required.
[Illustration: COUPÉ HARNESS.]
CHAPTER II.
RUSSET LEATHER.
In selecting rein leather, the same tests as to quality should be
employed as with harness leather, as it is in every respect the
same with the exception that, instead of being colored black, it is
bleached, and afterwards stained brown or some other color. The latest
freak of fashion is to bleach it quite light and then color it with a
yellowish-brown stain, so as to produce what is known as cuir-color, a
very light, almost imperceptible brown; in fact, the shade is nearer
to the natural color of fine oak-tanned leather than any thing else,
and the stain used is more for the purpose of producing a uniform
shade than establishing a new color. When this color is employed, very
little stain is needed on the edges of straps to bring them up to the
same shade as the grain; and where it can be done, the harness maker
will find it to his advantage to procure of the leather-manufacturer
the same kind of stain as is used to color the grain, the beauty of a
russet rein depending quite as much upon its uniformity of color as
upon its make. The brown and yellow stains can be made very easily,
but those used to produce the soft, fine shades are part of the
leather-manufacturer’s stock-in-trade, and their preparation is kept
a secret, at least until fashion has adopted some new color as the
favorite.
In selecting rein leather, it is bad policy to choose any thing but the
best quality. Poor leather works harder, does not keep its shape as
well, and takes a less uniform shade when stained, particularly when it
is short-tanned, as the untanned center presents a darker shade than
the portion that is well filled with bark. Then, too, if the grain is
hard it is liable to crack while being made up, or upon being bent
while in use. A pair of russet reins will contain about one pound of
leather, and the trifling difference in the cost between the highest
and lowest priced stock should not be sufficient inducement to the
harness maker to jeopardize the lives of his customers by the use of
inferior, unsafe reins.
Hand-part leather, like that for the reins, should be of the very
best quality, and all the tests that are applied to other kinds are
equally effectual for this, while it should also be soft and pliant.
It is customary among harness makers who use but a small amount of
rein-leather to cut their folds for hand parts from the same side as
they do the rounds.
This is a mistake, entailing additional cost without the gain of a
single advantage. Rein leather in most cases is too heavy for folds,
and must be split to reduce it to the proper thickness. This process
removes some of the strongest portion of the leather, besides occupying
the time of the workman. A cheaper and much better plan is to procure
handpart leather that has been made expressly for the purpose. It is
of lighter weight, much stronger in proportion to its thickness, and,
when cut to the proper width, is ready for the workman to make up. For
flat hand parts the leather should be equally as heavy as that used for
the rounds; it can be cut from the same sides as the rounds if desired,
but, as it is generally too hard, the workman is compelled to resort
to some method of softening it, such as pulling it around a post,
rolling and working, etc. For flat hand parts, grained leather is quite
popular, and looks well.
When the harness maker can not readily procure this, he can obtain very
nice grained hand parts by boarding or breaking the grain in the same
manner as is done by the curriers, as follows: cut a piece of leather
from the side, of the full width needed for two pairs of hand parts, as
a piece of the requisite width for one pair would be too narrow to work
well; lay the strip on a table, the grain side up, and with a board,
such as is used by curriers, crease the grain, commencing at the front
corner on one end, and giving the leather a half roll diagonally across
the strip, continuing to work it at the same angle until the other end
is reached; then commence at the front corner of the other end, and
board it at the same angle as the first, until the end is reached where
the work was begun. By this means, the creases in the grain will cross
each other and form the distinctive feature from which the leather
gets its name. The fineness of the graining depends upon the amount
of labor applied. In a little time the workman will acquire all the
experience necessary for the production of a fine, even grain.
To the harness maker using but little of this kind of handpart leather,
graining in this manner is a matter of economy. The labor needed to
produce the desired surface does even more than this, as it breaks down
and softens the leather, making it as pliant as can be desired.
Buff leather is also much used for hand parts. It is made of the same
quality of stock as the other kinds, but is not stained, the grain
being buffed by the currier to remove the gloss and give it a white,
furried appearance. It is a soft, pliant leather, and is one of the
best kinds in use for hand parts, as, in addition to its softness and
good appearance, it will not soil the most delicate fabrics.
Another light-colored leather, and one a good quality of which it is
difficult to procure, is that known as loop leather. This, unlike
the kinds before mentioned, is not curried with oil, or at least the
quantity of grease of any kind employed is very small. It must be
solid, and yet possess a mellow grain that will readily take a crease
and retain it. If in creasing up the work, one mark when placed in
close proximity to another obliterates it, or decreases its depth
in the least, a good piece of work can not be made, and only by the
exercise of the greatest care can even an ordinary job be produced.
If, however, the grain is mellow, each impression made by the creaser
becomes permanently set, and the adjoining one, no matter how near it
may be, is equally well defined. For this reason, in selecting a side,
make good tannage, mellow grain, and a solid body the tests.
The lack of uniformity in thickness is a matter of no importance;
indeed, instead of being a detriment, as is the case with all other
leather used by harness makers, it is a positive advantage, as the
shoulders and other thin parts can be used for check and other light
loops, while the thick butts are of the proper weight for trace and
similar heavy loops, all the intermediate thicknesses being available
for the various loops for other parts.
BUYING LEATHER.
In purchasing leather, the buyer is compelled to depend much upon the
honor of the seller in other respects than the determination of the
quality, excepting in the case of weight stock, which is sold by the
pound, the weight being ascertained at the time of sale. With trimmed
stock, however, the case is different in most markets. This leather
is marked with its weight while in the rough, and after it is trimmed
and curried there are no means of ascertaining the correctness of the
brand. It is claimed that a side of leather weighing eighteen pounds in
the rough will lose about four pounds in the currying and trimming. No
reliance however, can be placed upon this estimate; for if the flesh
side is not well cleaned, and the currier is desirous of misleading,
the leather may be stuffed with cheap oil until the finished is equal
to the rough weight.
Backs as well as trimmed sides are sold by the rough weight, with an
additional charge of $1 and $1.50 each for dressing. Recently, however,
a leading New-York manufacturer has adopted the plan of selling backs
by their actual weight at the time of sale, the price charged being 82
cents per pound, which is, as near as can be ascertained, the actual
cost of that bought by the pound, and to which an extra charge has been
added for finishing. The latter is the most simple method, and will no
doubt come into general use when the advantages are fully understood.
The buyer, however, is at liberty to take or leave the bellies—in the
latter case the value by weight being deducted from the bill. These
weigh, as a rule, four pounds. Thus a side of leather which weighed
eighteen pounds in the rough, if properly fleshed and curried will lose
four pounds by this process and three or four pounds more by cropping,
leaving about eleven pounds of prime leather in the back, for which the
buyer pays as though in the rough stock—eighteen pounds, less the three
or four pounds deducted if the bellies are not wanted. Therefore, in
buying a back, 48 cents a pound would be charged for eighteen pounds
of leather, and $1.50 added for dressing, making the total cost $8.70,
after deducting for the bellies, leaving eleven pounds of prime
leather, to be paid for at a cost of about 80 cents a pound, or nearly
double the apparent quotation.
In trimmed stock, the difference between the actual and the quoted
price is much less, but the buyer pays for the bellies as well as the
backs. The price charged per pound is, however, about 2 cents less
for the same quality, in which case an eighteen-pound side would cost
$8.28, and the actual weight would be about fourteen pounds, making the
leather cost about 59 cents a pound, a difference of about 21 cents a
pound between it and the backs. It will be seen by this that any false
branding of the rough weight causes a marked advance in the price, and
should teach the importance of buying trimmed stock of honest, reliable
men, and of avoiding speculators, who offer extra inducements in the
way of low prices, as the latter are sure to be made up by increased
weight.
CHAPTER III.
PATENT LEATHER.
Glazed, or, as it is more frequently called, patent leather is now
extensively used in the manufacture of harness, pads, gig saddles,
and winkers, they being seldom made of other kinds, while for
ornaments such as tabs, tug-ends, fronts, etc., it is deemed almost
indispensable; like plain leather, it is made both of good and poor
material, and finished to correspond.
The finest quality is made of well-assorted hides, tanned with young
oak bark, weak liquors being used at first, and gradually strengthened
each day until the proper degree is reached, ample time being given
to thoroughly tan the leather before it is removed from the vats. All
hides that are to be used for thin leather are then split.
The first split taken from the flesh side is small, and is known as the
“junior,” and is seldom finished in glazed stock; following this is one
or more full splits according to the thickness of the hide. The splits
are always finished smooth, the grain being largely used for enamel
leather, though it is also finished as grain, collar, binding, etc.
Running the hide through the splitting-machine has long been
acknowledged to be detrimental to the leather, owing to the severe
strain to which it is subjected, but the introduction of the belt-knife
machine for splitting removes much of this objection, as the hide is
split without being strained in the least. The processes of varnishing,
drying, and finishing, while determining the quality of the leather,
are foreign to the business of the harness maker; but there are points
which he should understand in order to be able to judge of the quality
of the leather. The first of these is the condition of the finished
surface, which should be smooth, the coat of color and varnish being of
sufficient thickness to give a pure color, while on skirting, winker,
and other heavy stock the varnish should be thicker than on light
leathers, as these are seldom bent while being worked. Light leather,
such as collar and binding, is always worked over round frames, and if
the glazed coat is too heavy it is liable to crack, thus defacing the
surface. This is particularly the case with collar-leathers, which in
too many cases are but the thinnest splits, selected without regard to
their adaptability to the required purpose, whereas they should be of
extra soft stock, coated as thinly as possible with the best grade of
varnish. The severe treatment it receives while being shaped to the
collar is sure to impair the surface even of the best. The grades of
leather known as grain winker, skirting, collar, etc., command a much
higher price than that known as splits. With the thinner qualities
there is some advantage in using the grain, as the surface preserves
its original appearance much better after being worked than does split
stock; for winker and skirting, however, the grain does not possess any
special merit, except what it may gain from not being put through the
splitting-machine, as thin hides are selected, and they are reduced to
a uniform thickness by the knife. The varnish is applied to the flesh
sides, and is therefore open to the same objections as to split stock.
The prejudice against the latter is a senseless one, and harness makers
pay dearly for yielding to it and selecting grain stock at higher rates.
Enamel leather is always made of the grain side, and its quality must
be determined by its softness to the touch, purity of color, and
fineness of finish. The prices of patent leather vary to an extent that
creates surprise in the minds of buyers who are unacquainted with the
causes.
These exist from the very commencement. In the first place, the hides
themselves may be of an inferior quality. When they are limed and
prepared for the tanner, they may be placed in strong hemlock liquors
and partially tanned, after which they are split and then retanned in
oak liquor for the purpose of producing a light color. They are also
submitted to various manipulations, unknown to any but the initiated,
for the purpose of giving a good appearance to the leather without
increasing the expense, which in no way improves the quality. After
being otherwise prepared for the varnish, the hides are placed upon a
frame, and by means of powerful jack-screws stretched to their utmost
extent, whereby an increased measurement of from five to seven feet is
given to each. They are then glazed and finished to look as well as
prime stock, and can be sold at a marked reduction in price compared
with the former; but the buyer who imagines he has saved two cents a
foot by purchasing these hides pays for five or seven feet of leather,
the greater part of which is sure to be lost, in a few months, by
shrinkage. The worst feature of this excessive stretching is that the
leather, being extended to its utmost capacity while wet, can not be
worked smooth when used over irregular shapes, as all the stretch is
taken out of it while being manufactured. This cheap stock therefore
costs nearly as much as the best qualities, is more difficult to
work, and is less durable when put to actual use. The care of patent
leather in stock in order to prevent loss is a matter of considerable
importance. When practicable, all thick stock should be hung up in a
cool, dry room, while thin stock, both enamelled and smooth, should be
rolled, thin paper being placed next to the glazed surface.
There is another matter that is well worthy the attention of
buyers—namely, the season in the year when the leather is made, this
having much to do with its durability.
The best leather is produced in cool weather, the poorest during the
hot months of July and August. The latter is somewhat less liable to
become sticky when exposed to the sun, but it is almost sure to crack
during cold weather, sometimes when not in use, and there are very few
leather-manufacturers who are willing to warrant stock not made in
cold weather. Harness-manufacturers should therefore look well to this
matter, as cracked patent leather destroys the appearance of their work.
CHAPTER IV.
CUTTING HARNESS.
The cutting of harness leather so as to avoid waste, and to secure
that best suited to the requirements of each individual strap is a
subject of the first importance to every harness maker, no matter what
the extent of his business may be. Leather scraps are of no value,
though every piece has been paid for, while the use of the softest
and weakest part of the leather in straps that receive the greatest
amount of strain insures the production of an inferior harness, be it
ever so well made up. The cutter therefore lays the foundation for,
and upon his skill depends much of, the manufacturer’s success. In
large factories this is well understood, and the most skilful men are
employed at high wages to cut up stock.
These cutters are of necessity governed by the grade of harness and
kind of stock used, and are guided solely by their own judgment, there
being no general rule that can be applied to each individual case. The
small manufacturer, however, is differently situated, and by following
rules that have been adopted by those who have had years of experience
in the best shops of the country, he will not only save stock, but
produce much more durable harness. The cutter receives his leather
in three forms, known to the trade as weight stock, trimmed stock,
and backs; these are illustrated by Fig. I. The extreme outline shows
the side in full; this is sold as weight stock—that is, by its actual
weight at the time of purchase. The dotted line commencing at the root
of the tail and passing down the back end, along the belly and up
the front to the top, shows the general form of the hide after being
trimmed, though in some cases the trimming consists of merely cutting
off a few of the most prominent points and slightly straightening the
edges. The dotted line A, running parallel with the length of the hide,
indicates the bottom line of what is known as the back (the width of
which is governed by the condition of the hide itself), the line of
separation being drawn just above the thin portion of the flank, the
position of which is shown by the dotted line B, the ends being trimmed
the same as in trimmed stock.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
A harness maker who does a small business of a general nature will find
it most profitable to buy weight stock of the best quality; he can then
crop it, as it is called—that is, cut the side in two parts at or about
the line A. This will give him three straight edges to work from in
cutting out straps for repairing and other small jobs, obviating the
necessity of splitting his leather to obtain straps for the requisite
thickness, and also avoiding the spoiling of a trace or rein by cutting
a small strap from the back, as he would be compelled to do under
other circumstances. In cutting, there is one point that should not
be overlooked, namely, to avoid as far as possible the use of the
splitting-machine to reduce the straps to the required thickness. This
machine materially facilitates the labor of the workman, but it is
positively injurious to the leather, and should not be used when it is
possible to dispense with it. For small straps the spokeshave works
nearly if not quite as expeditiously, and is in no way injurious.
The cutter must first ascertain the actual condition of the hide he
proposes to cut up. If one hide is to be used exclusively for a single
harness, it must be of good quality, uniform thickness, and free from
blemishes; but if a number of harness are to be cut at one time, the
sides should be selected, the finest and most uniform in thickness
being used for traces, reins, etc., but those having thick butts and
thin shoulders should be cut up in short straps, in the manner shown by
Fig. 1.
The dotted line represents the straightened edge. If the back for a
few inches below this line is of suitable thickness for traces, that
portion of it between C and D may be used for this purpose, and all the
back end between D and A, back of E, be cut up for short, heavy straps,
such as hold-backs, martingales, breast straps, etc., for express or
team harness, and shaft girth-billets, back-bands, breeching-straps,
etc., for carriage-harness. The shoulder forward of the line E, being
thin, is admirably adapted to docks, and should be cut as shown by
lines X. Being cut across the grain, they work up smoothly on the
inside, the few wrinkles that are formed by bending being easily rubbed
out. The remaining portion of the side, such as bellies, etc., be cut
into folds and linings, and the short, firm pieces into buckle chapes
and short billets, thus utilizing every part.
To cut a single harness out of a side of leather requires an entirely
different process, which will be explained in detail, the side with the
different sections being shown by Fig. 2.
A side for this purpose if of closely trimmed stock should weigh about
sixteen pounds, the rough brand being seventeen or eighteen.
The back should first be straightened as shown by the dotted line A,
which should be drawn as nearly as possible on a line parallel with the
center of the back-bone. It may be necessary to waste a little stock
to do this, but the advantage of having the fibre of the side parallel
with the edges of the straps will more than repay the loss occasioned.
Having straightened the center cut of the tail as shown by line 1,
then measure off from line 1 the full length required for the traces
and reins, cut in line 2 of the same depth as line 1, and cut the
requisite straps for these parts. This will leave the back perfectly
straight, unless, as sometimes occurs, the side from the root of the
tail is shaped like that shown. In this case, straighten the new line
by cutting off the small piece back of line 1, and cut the straight
cross-line 3, then measure from the back end the length required for
the breeching-straps, and cut these from B. This will leave the edge
with a jag at line 4, which should be straightened before cutting any
other straps from the back end.
It may be well to state at this point that keeping a straight edge
the full length of the side, and cutting the cross-lines no deeper
than absolutely necessary to release the straps, are two important
considerations, which if not observed will result in no little waste
of leather. A very common fault of the cutters, and one that should
be carefully guarded against, is the holding of the knife at an acute
angle, and cutting from the under side, allowing it to cut into the
side of leather in order to release the end of the strap previously
slit off.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
The offset C, forward of the cross-line 4, can be cut up into layers
for girths. These being removed, the edge is once more straight, and
the cutter should measure off from the back end section the requisite
length for the turnback or hip-straps, cutting in on line 5, the same
lengths answering for shaft tug-billets and back-bands, giving a pair
of each by cutting in the middle. Sections H and M may be cut up into
breast collar-layers, crown pieces, breeching-layers, neck-straps,
nose-pieces, martingale-layers, etc., and, if not too heavy, into
check-pieces, throat-latches, and center check-pieces in the order
named. Section E should be cut into straps that require rounding, such
as checks, round throat-latches, etc., and section K into linings and
points, always measuring from the back end, and retaining the head and
neck part that is left in as large a piece as possible. By this time
all the heaviest straps are provided for and the best portion cut up.
The section X, indicated by the dotted line, represents the thin, baggy
flank, which should not be cut up into straps, but can be used to good
advantage for linings to winkers. Section P, back of this, is just what
is required for winker-braces, the back end being thick, the leather
gradually growing thinner as the flank is approached. All that part
of the side forward of the flank, and below section K, can be worked
up into folds, cutting the breeching, breast-collar, neck-straps,
belly-bands, and crowns in the order named. The thick end back of the
flank, and below section P, can be cut up into buckle chapes, short
billets, etc., while the thin ends and other irregular-shaped pieces
can be used to good advantage for linings for tabs, etc. It is not
claimed that this system of cutting can be strictly carried out in
all cases, but by following the general order given, the cutter will
be sure of securing just such leather as is needed for the particular
straps named, and will at the same time avoid all unnecessary waste.
Certain defects in the side may necessitate slight changes in the
section indicated for certain straps, but when the blemishes are
removed the regular order given should be followed, providing that the
straps requiring great strength are not crowded below the line A in
Fig. 1.
[Illustration: PHAETON HARNESS.]
CHAPTER V.
PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER.
In the manufacture of fine harness, where the straps are to be worked
up full and to artistic patterns, the best quality of oak leather
should be used, as, it being well curried, the manner of working
it is less complicated than when commoner grades are employed. The
reason for this is, that only the firm portion of the leather is
used, the bellies, flanks, etc., being cut all off, leaving a narrow
strip called the back, from eighteen to twenty-two inches wide. This
leather requires to be moistened with a sponge and water, but there
are few harness makers who wet it to any considerable extent. The
practice, however, of one of the leading manufacturers of this country
is to place all the straps in a vat of water, allowing them to remain
immersed until the grain shows signs of the tallow coming to the
surface. They are then removed, wiped, and hung up until the surface
moisture is dried off, when they are handed over to the fitter, who
rolls the whole in a coarse cloth, afterwards taking them out one at a
time, and fitting them up. It is claimed that this treatment prepares
the leather for working up much better than when it is merely dampened,
and that the little oil and grease forced out can easily be replaced
without any detriment to the leather.
Curriers, however, condemn this treatment of fine, well-finished stock,
but experience has shown that leather thus manipulated can be worked up
into the finest harness, the finish on the grain being soft and clear
and the edges smooth, the leather retaining its softness as long as
that which has only been moistened. While there is a marked reduction
in the labor necessary in fitting it up, it is evident that there is
something gained by pursuing this method.
There is in the market large quantities of well-tanned but
poorly-curried stock. This is far preferable to poorly-tanned leather,
no matter how well it may be curried, if properly treated by the
harness maker. The right course to pursue with this quality is to
soak the leather until it is well moistened to the center, the length
of time necessary varying so greatly with different kinds that it is
impossible to give any other guides than the appearance of the grease
on the surface. The “testing-strap” is also sometimes employed. A
small scrap of the leather, being soaked, is placed in the water with
the straps, and when the workman thinks the leather is sufficiently
wet, he cuts this strap and ascertains whether or not the moisture has
penetrated to the center. When sufficiently wet, the straps are removed
from the vat and hung up until the surface moisture has dried off.
Each strap is then taken in hand, and if the leather has been badly
fleshed, a spokeshave is used to remove all the superfluous stock. This
is done by laying the strap on the bench, grain side down, securing the
end with an awl, and with a sharp tool cutting off the loose scraps and
thin, veiny portions. Care should be taken, however, to avoid cutting
away any more of the flesh side than is absolutely necessary, as the
leather is weakened by so doing. After being cleaned off, the leather
should be rubbed on the flesh side with a slicker, and laid out on a
board grain side down; then with brush give each strap a coat of melted
tallow, warm enough to run freely, but not sufficiently hot to injure
the leather, and brush it well to work in all the grease possible.
Allow the straps to remain coated with tallow for twelve hours at
least, by which time the moisture will have dried out and the tallow
have struck well into the pores of the leather. No bad results will
follow if the leather is allowed to remain a much longer time coated
with the tallow.
After the leather has been in this state a sufficient length of time,
each strap must be placed upon a bench, grain side down, and secured in
the same manner as before mentioned; then with a glass slicker rub the
flesh side thoroughly, working in all the grease possible, the surplus
being removed by the slicker. Then turn the strap over, and rub down
the other side to set the grain and give it a fine appearance.
If the straps are to be worked up full, it will not be necessary to rub
the grain side much, as the rubbing incident to the process of fitting
up will give it a fine finish. This recurrying is not done solely with
a view of improving the appearance of the leather, though this alone
would fully compensate the manufacturer for his trouble, the treatment
being equally beneficial to its wearing qualities, as the leather is
made more dense by the rubbing it receives, while the grease is worked
thoroughly into every fibre, causing it to become soft and flexible.
With ordinary leather, this recurrying will reduce it in thickness
nearly one third without a particle of its original substance being
removed. The good effect is not so marked upon poorly-tanned leather
as it is on that which is well tanned but poorly curried, but the
improvement in the wearing qualities and appearance is sufficient to
make it profitable to expend labor in this direction.
The leather used for single-strap track-harness should always be rubbed
on the flesh side as has been directed, in order to give a fine,
smooth, and perfect finish, which, after being blacked, will make the
flesh nearly equal to the grain side. Besides this, the increased
density given to the leather makes it possible to trim the edges
smoothly and finish them as finely as the grain, and as this latter
consideration is one of great importance to all who desire the harness
to appear smooth and true, they will find it greatly to their advantage
to follow the above directions when preparing their leather. Common
harness could be made to appear much neater than is generally the case
if the same course were followed in the treatment of the leather as
recommended for fine grades, but as the prices are usually such as to
render the carrying out of this system unprofitable, the leather can be
fitted up without extra labor, the straps being moistened by dipping
them into a pail of water, or by using a sponge. With this kind of
stock, no more water should be used than is absolutely necessary to
cause it to work up well.
CHAPTER VI.
MEASURING FOR HARNESS.
A very large percentage of all the harness makers in this country look
upon the idea of measuring a horse as unworthy their consideration,
but the experience and observation of the most enterprising men in the
custom trade has convinced them that the reason why there are so many
ill fitting harness in use is because of the failure of so large a
number in the trade to adopt the same common-sense rules which govern
other mechanics. There are some straps which can be lengthened or
shortened to accommodate them to the size and form of the horse without
detriment; but the principal ones can not be so changed, and if not
made of a proper length at first they seriously interfere with the
appearance as well as the durability of the harness.
Prominent among the latter is the hame tug, whether it be for a short
or long tug harness. If for a long tug, the length must be such that
when the collar is well down upon the shoulder, the market tug will
follow a line parallel with the center of the pad side: if this
position is not maintained, an unnecessary strain is thrown upon the
swivel, or loop in the end of the pad top, and the pad itself will be
likely to be drawn out of shape and the appearance of the harness be
marred. With short tugs the result is quite as injurious; if the tug is
sufficiently long to allow the trace buckle to come in contact with the
pad trace bearer on a double harness, and the buckle on the back-band
of a single harness, injury will be done to these straps, or to the
hame tug itself. It naturally follows, therefore, that the length of
the horse from the collar to the girth is an important consideration.
With breast collar harness the length of the body is equally as
important as the length of the hame tug on the hame collar; the
position of the neck strap tugs has much to do with the set of the
collar and the wear of the harness. If the tugs are set too far back,
the collar will sag in front so as to interfere with the movement of
the horse, or it will be necessary to shorten the neck strap to such an
extent that an undue strain will be thrown upon it at the neck strap
tug when the trace is straightened.
The proper length for the breeching body, winker brace, cheek straps,
girths, etc., are of equal importance; while the point of attaching
the hip strap to the turnback, the front to the cheek pieces, and the
position of the winkers, all contribute much to the durability as well
as the appearance of the harness; yet there are those who ridicule the
whole idea of measuring, they depending entirely upon lengthening or
shortening such straps as can be adjusted by the use of buckles.
Manufacturers who carry on an extended business and ship goods to all
parts of the country can not measure every horse; they have accordingly
adopted a set of lengths for each class, based upon the size of horse
upon which they are to be used.
If a coach harness is to be made, it is supposed to be for horses
sixteen hands, or over, high, and is cut to those lengths that
experience has shown to be the most correct for such sized animals. If
a double road harness is ordered, it is made from lengths suitable for
horses fifteen or fifteen and a half hands high, while an order for
a light phaeton harness would be filled by cutting from the scale of
lengths adapted to horses fourteen or fourteen and a half hands high. A
light track harness is cut to fit a horse fifteen or fifteen and a half
hands high, while one for a coupé would be cut from the lengths suited
to horses sixteen to sixteen and a half hands high. Regular buggy
harness for common use are cut with traces and other straps running
lengthwise to fit horses fifteen hands high, but girths, etc., are cut
for heavier animals.
The lengths used by these houses have been determined by close
observation, and are as nearly correct as can be expected. Another rule
is based upon the lengths suited to a fifteen-hand horse, adding or
subtracting four inches to girths, one and one half inches to breast
and breeching bodies, and three inches to hip and neck straps, for
every hand increase or decrease in the size of the horse.
[Illustration: COACH HARNESS.]
Such tables are always valuable to harness makers who are making up
stock, and by a little observation may be made to answer perfectly for
different localities; but custom makers who do not possess these scales
of lengths should measure the horses for which the harness is to be
made if they hope to succeed in having it fit well.
In measuring for a bridle, ascertain the length from the corner of the
mouth to one inch below the root of the ear, and add enough to this
for the lap to secure the buckle to the top of the cheek piece, and
also two thirds the original length: this will give a cheek piece long
enough to allow the loose end to enter into the cheek loop about one
half its length; for the crown piece, measure from the root of the
ear on one side, over the head to the root of the ear on the other
side, and add five or six inches to each end for the cheek and throat
latch billets; for throat latch, measure from a point two inches below
the root of the ear, around the throat, to the corresponding point
on the other side; for the neck strap to a breast collar, pass the
measure over the neck just forward of the highest point of the withers,
carrying the ends forward three inches to a point parallel with the
point where the throat enters the breast; determine the position of
the tugs by measuring around the breast from the points designated
by the ends of the neck strap. To determine the length of the breast
collar, measure from a point four inches above the elbow on one side,
around the breast just below where the throat enters the breast, to a
corresponding point on the other side. The girth measure must also be
taken.
If the harness is to be made up with a long tug and market tug,
designate the exact location of the center of the girth, and measure
from the end of the hame draft eye to the point designated as the
center of the girth, and deduct from this the length of the buckle back
of the center of the loop. See that the collar sets well back in its
place when measuring for the tug, as the proper length of this strap is
of the greatest importance: if it is too long or too short, the market
tug will not occupy its proper position, and thereby detract much from
the appearance of the harness. In measuring for the breeching, draw
the line around the buttock from a point just above the stifle to a
corresponding position on the opposite side, and allow one inch for
slack; for hip straps, measure from a point ten inches forward of the
crupper down to the point occupied by the body of the breeching, and
deduct three inches for the breeching tugs.
The harness maker who has a well-assorted table of lengths of the
strapping for various kinds of harness need not measure the horse to
be fitted except in special cases. A set of lengths which are suited
to horses in one locality may be in part unsuited to those of another,
owing to the difference in their build, and it would be well in all
cases to test the lengths furnished before adopting them in full.
In preparing the tables of lengths and widths in this work, the author
has aimed to secure those which have proved correct, and, while not
claiming infallibility, he believes they are as near perfect as any
tables of this kind can be. They represent a variety of styles suited
to the wants of all classes of customers, and can be followed with
safety.
CHAPTER VII.
No. 1.
SINGLE STRAP TRACK HARNESS.
BRIDLE.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown 23 1
Cheeks 27 ½
Throat latch 30 ½
Front 21 ⅝
Winker strap 12 1
Split 7 ⅜
Billet 5 ½
Half Kemble Jackson check 25 1
Split 12 ½
Gag rein 24 ⅝
Center piece 60 ⅝
Billets 10
SADDLE.
Tree 3
Flaps 21½ 2½
Swell 2¾
Points 9 ⅞
Jockeys 4½ 2⅝
Belly band 18 1¾
Chapes 7 ⅞
Shaft girth 29 2
Billets 22 ⅞
Back-bands 20 ⅞
Shaft tugs 18 ⅞
Safety strap 45 1
Martingale, body 32 1⅜
Bottom lay 11 ⅝
Ring piece, round 17 ⁷/₁₆
BREAST-COLLAR.
Body 35 2
Neck piece 38 1¼
Ends ⅝
Chapes 7 ⅝
Traces 83 1
Lap, on breast collar 11
BREECHING.
Body 38 2
Layers 13 1⅛
Hip strap 43 ⅝
Tugs, round 11 ⅞
Chapes 7 ⅝
Turnback 44 1¼, ⅝
Body 1¼
Dock 14 3½
Reins 72 ⅞
Hand parts 84 1¼
No. 2.
SINGLE ROAD HARNESS—ONE-INCH TRACE.
BRIDLE.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown layer 23 ⅝
Cheek pieces 27 ½
Winker strap 12 1
Billet 5 ½
Split, flat 7 ⅜
Winkers 4½ 4
Front 21 ⅝
Throat latch 30 ½
Gag reins 24 ¾
Center piece 60 ½
Billets 10 ½
BREAST-COLLAR.
Layer and trace in one 89 1
Neck piece 48 ⅝
SADDLE.
Tree 2½
Flaps 21½ 1¾
Swell 2
Jockeys 3¾ 1⅝
Points 12 ¾
Back-bands 20 ⅞
Shaft tugs 19 ⅞
Belly band 22 ¾
Shaft girth 28 ¾
Billets 22 ¾
Martingale 41 ¾
Bottom lay 19 ¾
BREECHING.
Breeching layer 45 ¾
Hip strap 45 ⅜
Breeching tugs, round 11 ⅞
Buckle chapes 7 ⅜
Breeching straps 48 ¾
Turnback 44 ⅝
Dock 15 3
Reins, flat 72 ⅞
Hand parts 84 1¼
FOLDS.
Crown 11 2¾
Breast collar 39 3¾
Neck strap 26 2¾
Belly band 16 3
Shaft girth 28 3
Martingale 32 2¾
Breeching 36 3½
No. 3.
SINGLE HARNESS (BREAST COLLAR).
BRIDLE.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown piece 23 1⅛
Billets 6
Cheeks 29 ½
Throat latch 28 ½
Front, made up 12 ⅝
Winkers 4½ 4¾
Winker brace 13 1
Billet 5½ ½
Split, round 7½
Checks 23 ¾
Billets 9 ¾
Center piece 60 ⅝
BREAST-COLLAR.
Body layer 44 ⅞
at ends 1
Neck straps 40 ¾
at ends ⅝
Tugs 7 ⅝
Traces 78 1
GIG SADDLE.
Tree 3
Flaps 21½ 2¾
Points 9 ¾
Jockeys 3¾ 2⅝
Back-bands 21 1
Shaft tugs 21 1
Belly band 22 ¾
Shaft girth 28 ¾
Billets 20 ¾
Martingale 42 1
Bottom 19 ¾
BREECHING.
Body layer 46 ⅞
Hip strap 44 ½
Breeching tugs, round 11 ⅞
Buckle chapes 7 ½
Breeching straps 48 1
Turnback 44 ⅝
Body 1¼
Split 8 ⅜
Crupper dock 17½ 3
FOLDS.
Breast collar 36 3
Neck piece 24 2¾
Breeching body 37 3
Belly band 17 2¾
Shaft girth 28 2¾
Martingale 3 2½
No. 4.
SINGLE HARNESS (HAME COLLAR).
BRIDLE.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown piece 23 ⅞
Split 6 ⅝
Cheeks 27 ⅝
Throat latch 28 ⅝
Front 21 ¾
Winker strap 12 1⅛
Billet 5 ⅝
Split, rounded 7
Check reins 23 ¾
Billets 8½ ¾
Center piece 60 ⅝
HAMES, ETC.
Hame tugs 13 1⅛
Hame straps, short 17 ⅝
long 20 ⅝
Traces 80 1⅛
GIG SADDLE.
Tree 3½
Flaps 20 3½
Points 14 ⅞
Back straps 20 1
Shaft tugs 20 1
Belly band 22 ⅞
Shaft girth 30 ⅞
Billets 22 ⅞
Martingale 35 ⅞
Bottom lay 19 ⅞
Ring piece 20 1¼
Split 16
BREECHING.
Body 44 1
Breeching straps 49 1
Tugs 12 ¾
Hip strap 44 ¾
Turnback 44 ¾
at hip 1½
Crupper 18 3
FOLDS.
Crown 12 2½
Belly band 17 3
Shaft girth 28 3
Martingale 33 3
Breeching 37 3½
No. 5.
HEAVY COUPÉ HARNESS.
BRIDLE.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown 23 1⅜
Layer, cut to pattern 9 1½
Cheeks 30 ⅝
Front 22 1¼
Winker straps 13 1½
Billets 5 ⅝
Split 8½ ½
Winkers 6 5½
Nose piece 30 1¼
Ends at cheeks ⅝
Throat latch 24 ⅝
Round check 28 ⅞
Billets 10
Center check 72 ⅝
SADDLE.
Tree 4
Flap 22 3¾
Swell 4
Point 12 1
Jockey 5 3½
Back-band (running) 46 1¼
Shaft tugs 24 1⅜
Belly band 26 1¼
Shaft girth 30 1
Billets 23 1
Martingale 34 1
Bottom lay 21 ⅞
HAMES, TRACES.
Hames, 4 pounds ¾
Hame tug, made up 10½ 1¼
Safes, full length 2½
Loops 4½
Traces 72 1¼
BREECHING.
Body layer 52 1¼
Hip straps 48
Center 1¼
Swell 2
Split 16 ¾
Tugs 11 ¾
Breeching strap 50 ⅞
Turnback 60 ⅞
Body 20 1¾
Split 9 ¾
Dock 19 3½
Kidney strap 34 1
Ornament 3½ 2
FOLDS.
Breeching 46 3¾
Belly band 17 3½
Shaft girth 19 3½
No. 6.
DOUBLE ROAD HARNESS, WITHOUT BREECHING.
BRIDLES.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown pieces 23 1
Layer, waved 7 ⅝
Cheeks 29 ½
Gag runners 8 ½
Throat latches 26 ⅜
Winker straps 12 1½
Split 8 ⅜
Billets ½
Winkers 5¼ 4¾
Fronts 30 ⅝
Checks 23 ¾
Center parts 60 ½
Billets 10
HAMES AND TRACES.
Hames ⁹/₁₆
Hame straps 24 ⅝
Hame tugs 1
Safes 13 1½
Loops 4¾
Ends 5½
Traces 80 1
Spread straps 18 ½
Link
PADS.
Top 17 1⅜
Sides 18 1¼
Points 8 ¾
Trace bearers 16 1
Housings 24 2¾
Belly bands 23 ⅞
Turnback 44 ⅝
Body 1⅜
Split 9 ⅜
Docks 14 3
Standing martingales 64 ¾
Chin parts 12 ½
Short reins, rounded 55 1⅛
Long reins, rounded 72 1⅛
Hand parts 102 1¼
BREAST COLLARS FOR PATENT YOKE.
Body layers 40 1
Loops 4¾ 1
Neck straps 43 1⅛
Split, long ends 17½ ½
short ends 14½ ½
Tugs, short 2¼ ½
Tugs, long 2¾ ½
Billets on yokes 6 ⅞
Yoke straps 11 1⅛
Martingale 20 1
Billets 12 ¾
Safety straps 36 ⅝
FOLDS.
Belly bands 17 3½
Breast collars 41 4
Neck straps 8 4
Martingales 32 3½
No. 7.
SHORT TUG COACH HARNESS, WITHOUT BREECHING.
BRIDLES.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown pieces 22 1⅜
Cheeks 28 ⅝
Fronts, made up 13 1⅛
Throat latch 23 ⅝
Winker brace 13 1¼
Split, flat 8 ⅜
Billet ends ⅝
Gag runners 8 ⅝
Winkers 5¾ 5¼
Cheek loops 7¼
Check reins 22 ¹³/₁₆
Center pieces 60 ⅝
PADS.
Tops 17
At bilge 2¼
Center 1⅜
Side pieces 26 1¾
Trace bearers 16 1¼
Lining 13 1⅜
Point 10 ⅞
Belly bands 24 ⅞
Martingales 28 ¾
Bottoms 16 ⅝
Billets 13 ¾
Standing martingales 60 ¾
Mouth pieces 17 ¾
Turnbacks 44 ⅞
At docks 1¾
Split 9 ½
Hip straps 66 ¾
Dock 18 2½
HAMES AND TRACES.
Hames ⅝
Hame tugs 16 1¼
Bottoms 13 2½
Loops 4⅝
Hame straps 28 ⅝
Traces 81 1¼
Spread straps 16 ⅝
FOLDS.
Belly bands 16 3½
Martingales 30 3½
No. 8.
LONG TUG COACH HARNESS.
BRIDLES.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown pieces 23 1⅜
Layers 9
Cheeks 29 ¾
Face pieces 12 ¾
Ornaments 4¼ 2
Nose pieces 14 1¼
Ends ⅞
Throat latches 26 ⅝
Winkers 6⅛ 5¼
Checks for swivel 30 ⅞
Plain 23 ⅞
Crown piece billets 8 ¾
Center check[1] 60 ¾
HAMES AND TRACES.
Hames ¾
Hame tugs, made up 16½ 1¼
Safe 2½
Loops 8
Traces 84 1¼
PADS.
Top 16½
Center 1¾
Swell 2¾
Housings 21½
Center 3½
Swell 5
Pad sides 26 1⅞
Points 10 1
Market straps 20 1
Swell 1½
Market tugs 20 1
Loops 4½
Belly band, short 23½ ⅞
long 35
Martingales 27 ⅞
Spread straps 18 ⅝
Hame straps 28 ¾
BREECHINGS.
Layers 53 1¼
Tugs 13 ¾
Loops 4
Hip straps 27
Centers 1½
Ornaments 2¼
Split 19 ¾
Turnbacks 32½ ¾
Bodies 19 2
Layers 12 ¾
Crupper billets 8 ⅝
Docks 17½ 3½
Short reins 84 1⅓
Rounded 55
Long reins 84 1⅛
Rounded 72
Hand parts 108 1¼
FOLDS.
Belly band, short 17 3¾
long 20
Martingales 32 3½
Breechings 48 4
[1] Other straps same as in No. 7.
No. 9.
ENGLISH FOUR-IN-HAND HARNESS.
BRIDLES.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown pieces 23 1¾
Chapes 2 ¾
Cheeks 10½ ¾
Billets 16 ¾
Throat latches 27 ¾
Nose bands, middle 12½ 1¼
Buckle-ends 13 ¾
Winker straps 14 1½
Split 8½
Face pieces 13
Fronts 13 1⅜
Winkers, square 6½ 6½
Bearing reins 66 ¾
Round reins 20½ 1⅛
Running bradoons 26 1⅛
Billets 9 ¾
PADS, ETC.
Tops 17
Bottoms 21½ 2½
Point straps 8 1⅛
Girths 42 2½
Girth pieces 15 2½
Girth straps 16 1⅛
Tug belly bands 52 1⅛
BREECHINGS, ETC.
Bodies 120 1½
Hip straps 48 1⅛
Breeching tugs 13 1½
Trace bearers 18 1⅛
Turnbacks 45 1⅛
Layers 14
Linings 59 1⅛
Cruppers 22 1⅛
Docks 16 3
TRACES, ETC.
Traces, made up 78 1½
Draw leathers 8 1½
Hame tugs 19½ 1½
Safes 22 3
At hame end 2
Short tugs 10 1⅛
Tug straps 18 ¾
Bearing martingales 54 1¼
Short martingales 42 1¼
Leader traces, made up 60 1⅛
Hame tugs 18 1⅛
Safes 20½
All other leader strapping,
narrower than wheelers ⅛
REINS.
Wheeler 13 feet 1⅛
Couplings 9 ” 1⅛
Billets 1 foot 1⅛
Hand parts 6 feet 1⅛
Leader reins 22 ” 1⅛
No. 10.
TANDEM HARNESS.—LEAD-HORSE.
BRIDLE.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown piece 23 1¼
Layer 7
Cheeks 29 ⅝
Throat strap 26 ½
Winker strap 12 1½
Split 8
Winker 5 5½
Check for swivel 28 ¾
Billets 9 ¾
Front, made up 13 ⅞
Center check 60 ⅝
Reins 175 ⅞
PAD AND LONG TUGS.
Top 17 1⅜
Housing 24 3¾
Sides 17 1½
Points 12 ¾
Market tug chapes 20 ⅞
Market tug billets 20 ⅞
Belly band, fold 17 3½
Layer 23 ⅞
Turnback 44 ⅝
Body 1½
Split 8
Dock 12 3
Hame tugs 16½ 1⅛
Traces 90 1⅛
Trace bearers 56
GIG SADDLE AND SHORT TUGS.
Tree 4
Flaps 22 3½
Points 10 ⅞
Trace bearers 17 1
Hame tugs 13 1⅛
Traces 92 1⅛
SHAFT-HORSE.
Bridle cut ⅛ of an inch heavier than
that for lead-horse, the lengths
being the same throughout.
SADDLE.
Tree 5
Flaps 23 4¼
At swell 5¾
Points 10 1⅛
All other parts cut to the same
measurements as those of the
Coupé harness, No. 5.
No. 11.
MEDIUM WEIGHT SINGLE EXPRESS HARNESS.
BRIDLE.
Length, Width
inches. inches.
Crown piece 24 1½
Cheeks 30 ¾
Throat latch 22 ¾
Front 22 ⅞
Winker brace 13 1¼
Split 8
Rounded 7
Gag runners 16 ⅜
Face pieces 26 1¼
Split 10
Check reins 22 1
Billets 10 ¾
Center 60 ⅝
Winkers, square 5
GIG SADDLE.
Tree 5
Skirts, width to suit tree 22
Points 12 1¼
Belly band, fold 18 5
Shaft girth, fold 22 5
Chapes 7 1¼
Shaft tugs 20 1¼
Billets 14 1¼
Carriers for saddle 20 1¼
Hame tugs 20 1½
Hame straps 20 ⅞
Traces 74 1½
BREECHING.
Body fold 38 5
Layer 46 1½
Breeching straps 48 1¼
Tugs 12 1
Hip strap 44 2
Split 20
Carrying straps 22 ¾
Turnback 44 1
Layer 9
Crupper body 18 1½
Split 8
Crupper dock 15 2½
No. 12.
HEAVY SINGLE EXPRESS HARNESS.
BRIDLE.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown piece 22 1¼
Cheeks 29 ¾
Throat latch 25 ¾
Front 30 1
Made up 12
Winker strap 12½ 1¼
Split 7½
Billet 5 ⅝
Nose piece 13 ⅞
Checks 23 ⅞
Center piece 60 ⅝
Winkers 5½ 5
HAMES AND TRACES.
Hames ⅞
Hame tugs 11 1⅞
Loops 4
Traces 72 1⅞
Hame strap, long 23 1
short 17 1
SADDLE.
Tree 6
Flaps 22 5½
Jockies 6 5¼
Points 10 1¼
Back straps 22 1½
Shaft tugs 26 1½
Billets 14 1¼
Chapes, long belly band 8 1¼
short belly band 8 1¼
Martingale 29 1¼
Billet 14 1
BREECHING.
Layer 48 1½
Tugs 9 1
Hip straps 48 1
Turnback 46 1¼
Dock 16 3
Breeching straps 58 1¼
Reins 1
FOLDS.
Breeching 41 5
Belly band, short 17 4½
long 22 4½
Martingale 32 4½
Turnback 22 2¼
No. 13.
LONG TUG TEAM HARNESS, SOFT PAD.
BRIDLES.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown pieces 24 1⅝
Split 7
Cheek billets ⅞
Throat latch billets ¾
Cheeks 30 ⅞
Fronts 24 ⅞
fitted up 16½
Winker straps 15 1½
rounded 9
Face pieces 22 1⅛
Split 11
Throat latches 24 ¾
Winkers 5⅞ 5½
Inside checks 60 ¾
Outside checks 26 ¾
Billets 10 ¾
PADS, ETC.
Tops 22 1¾
Ends 1½
Ring pieces 26 1¼
Center rounded 5
Nut pieces 18 1¾
Skirt straps 32 1¼
Back strap 60 1¾
Split 52
Chapes 9 1¾
Layers 12 1¼
BREECHING.
Folds 44 5
Layers 54 1¼
Chapes for lead up 6½
Layers 11 ⅞
Side straps 68 1
Lazy straps 44 1
TRACES, ETC.
Traces, fitted up 72 1¾
Hame tugs, fitted up 18 1¾
Billets 16 1½
Belly band folds 18 5½
Chapes 7 1½
Pole straps 54 1¾
Breast straps 66 1¾
Collar straps 32 1
Hame straps, bottom 26 1
top 28 1
No. 14.
LONG TUG FARM HARNESS.
BRIDLES.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown pieces 24 1¼
Ends split 7½ ⅝
Cheeks 17 ⅝
Bit straps 11½ ⅝
Throat latches, long 13 ⅝
short 11 ⅝
Winker straps 13 1¼
Split, flat 8 ½
round 8 ⅝
Billet 5 ⅝
Fronts 12 1¼
Face pieces 22 1
Split 10
rounded 7
Checks 24 ⅞
rounded 15
Center 60 ⅝
Billets 8⅞
PADS, TRACES, ETC.
Pad tops, soft pad 36 1¼
Layers 50 1⅞
Billets 16 1¼
Belly band fold 21 5
Billets 14 1¼
Hame tugs 17 1½
Traces 72 1½
Hame straps, long 22 1
short 20 1
Holdbacks 52 1½
Breast straps 52 1½
Turnbacks 36 1
Crupper bodies 17 1¼
Docks 14 3
Billets ⅝
Lines ⅞
Billets 9 ⅞
No. 15.
WAGON HARNESS WITH ADJUSTABLE TREES.
BRIDLES.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown pieces 24 1⅝
Split at ends 6 ⅞ and ¾
Cheeks 30 ⅞
Throat latches, long 20 ¾
short 12 ¾
Fronts 22 ⅞
Round reins 22 1
rounded 16
Center pieces 60 ¾
Winker brace 11 1
Winker, wing pattern 7 4
PADS, ETC.
Hame tugs 36 1½
With cockeyes and chains 76
Adjustable trees, No. 6.
Pad skirt 16 3½
Layer, also to line 20 1¼
billets
Billets 16 1¼
Bottoms 18 6
Belly band folds 18 5
Chapes 7 1¼
Billets 16 1¼
BREECHING.
Body folds 39 5
Layers 48 1¼
Tugs 12 ⅞
Side straps 72 ⅞
Hip straps 26 1¾
Split 20
Crupper body 16 1½
Split 8
Dock, folded 14 2½
Back straps, 42 1
to sew in rump rings
Breast straps 56 1½
Holdbacks 50 1¼
Hame and carrying straps 22 ⅞
TRIMMINGS.
2 pairs common low top wooden hames,
2 bits,
4 1½-inch cockeyes,
6 1¾-inch breeching rings,
4 1-inch ” ”
4 ⅞-inch ” ”
12 1¼-inch buckles,
2 1½-inch ”
20 ⅞-inch ”
16 ¾-inch ”
4 1½-inch trace buckles,
4 gag-swivels.
No. 16.
ADJUSTABLE PAD DOUBLE HARNESS, TO BE USED ALSO AS SINGLE HARNESS.
BRIDLES.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown piece 24 1¼
Split 7½ ⅝
Cheek pieces 16 ⅝
Bit straps 10 ⅝
Fronts 22 1
Throat straps 20 ⅝
Face pieces 23 1
Split 10½
Winker braces 13 1
Split, rounded 7
Winkers 4¾ 4¼
Check reins 22 ⅞
Center pieces 56 ⅝
ADJUSTABLE PADS.
Skirts 20
Points 14 1
Pads 6
Back-bands 38 1
TRACES, ETC.
Traces 78 1½
Hame tugs 10 1½
Belly bands, folded 19 3¾
Chapes 6 1
Martingales, folded 30 3
Billets, collar 16 ⅞
Points 10 ⅝
Pole straps 48 1¼
Yoke straps 48 1¼
BREECHINGS.
Body fold 39 3¾
Layers 45 1⅛
Tugs, long 12 ⅝
short 10 ⅝
Hip straps 26 ⅝
Back straps 36 ⅞
Reins 78 ⅞
TRIMMINGS.
2 pair low top wood hames,
2 adjustable trees,
4 1½-inch trace buckles,
4 1¼-inch roller buckles—for breast and neck-straps,
14 1-inch buckles,
6 ⅞-inch ”
24 ⅝-inch ”
4 breeching rings,
8 ¾-inch rings.
No. 17.
PENNSYLVANIA WAGON HARNESS.
BRIDLES.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown pieces 22 1¼
Cheek pieces, long billet side 48 1¼
short billet side 36 1¼
Throat latch 39 ¾
Nose band 18 1⅛
Winker straps 12 1¼
Split 9
Front 26 1⅛
Winkers 5½ 5
Check reins 78 1
Bit straps 12 ⅞
BREECHING.
Butt pieces 56 4
Hip pieces 58 4
Cross pieces 62 1½
Side straps 54 1½
Braces 24 3
Hip straps 36 1½
Back-band 46 4
Chapes 14 3
Short-top stay 8 1¼
Back strap 66 3
Split 8
Chapes, for square on rump 8 2
Dock, folded 15 2½
Belly band, long side 34 1½
Billet 24 1½
Carrying straps 22 ⅞
Hame straps 22 ⅞
Chain pipes 30 5
TRIMMINGS.
2 pair hook hames, high top,
4 trace chains,
4 large rings, or D’s, for breeching,
2 bits,
2 1½-inch buckles—breast strap,
2 triangles for rump,
6 1½-inch buckles,
2 1¼-inch ”
16 ⅞-inch ”
2 1-inch ”
4 ¾-inch ”
No. 18.
STAGE HARNESS.
BRIDLES.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown pieces 24 1½
Split 7
Cheeks 30 ¾
Throat latches 22 ¾
Winker straps 13 1¼
Split 8
Front 22 1⅛
Made up 12
Reins, in one piece 78 ¾
PADS, ETC.
Tops 36 1¾
Points cut down to 1¼
Tugs and belly band billets combined 30 1¼
Center piece 9 1
Belly band folds 20 5
Chapes 7 1¼
Traces 64 2
Stay loops, sewed in the trace 12 1¼
Breast straps 56 1½
Holdbacks 42 1¼
Billets 15 1¼
Collar straps 30 1
Chapes 6 1
Hame straps 22 ⅞
Carrying straps 22 ⅞
BREECHINGS.
Folds 39 5
Layers 48 1¼
Tugs 12 ⅞
Breeching straps 72 ⅞
Back straps, or turnbacks 56 1¼
Crupper bodies 16 1½
Split 8
Dock, folds 14 2½
Hip straps 30 1¾
Split 20
TRIMMINGS.
2 pairs high top Concord hames,
2 bridle bits,
2 pairs two-foot chains with D ends,
14 1¼-inch buckles,
2 1½-inch ”
16 ⅞inch ”
2 1-inch ”
20 ¾inch ”
6 1¾-inch breeching rings,
6 1¼-inch ”
4 1-inch ”
4 gag-swivels.
No. 19.
BITTING HARNESS.
BRIDLE.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown piece 24 2
Split 7
Cheeks 13 1¼
Billets 9 1¼
Throat latch 22 ¾
Front 24 1
Made up 12
Throat latch 22 ¾
Swivel strap 18 ⅝
Gag rein, long side 66 ⅞
rounded 16
short side 24 ⅞
rounded 16
Side reins 42 12
Billets 9
Martingale to buckle back 54 1¼
Split 15
Surcingle, web 63
padded 16
Billets on broad web 24 1
Chapes 6 1
Pad layer and billets 18 1
Side chapes 21 1
Turnback, sewed in rump ring 42 1
Crupper body 16 1½
Split 8
Dock 16 2⅛
TRIMMINGS.
1 bit,
2 martingale rings,
1 1¼-inch ring,
3 1⅛-inch rings,
5 1¼-inch buckles,
10 1-inch ”
3 ⅞-inch ”
5 ¾-inch ”
In making up, measure off 24 inches from the billet end of the web for
the center of the pad, which should be 16 inches long; sew on the chape
for the billet, and turn back the ring across the center of the pad;
measure off from the center 22 inches on each side for the side check,
chapes of ring, and buckles; buckle back the rump stay strap with a
reverse buckle and slip loops.
No. 20.
CART HARNESS.
BREECHING.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Body 75 4
Layer, to extend to ring 64 2½
Hip strap 54 1¼
Tugs 14 1¼
Kidney strap 58 1¼
Tugs 14 1¼
Back strap 34 1½
Safe-piece 14 4
Layer or buckle piece 14 1½
Belly band, long 60 2½
Billet 24 2½
Bridle same as stage harness, No. 18.
TRIMMINGS.
1 saddle tree,
1 pair hook hames,
1 back chain,
2 holdback chains,
2 trace chains,
2 loop end pins for breeching,
1 2½-inch ring for rump,
4 1⅛-inch rings,
6 1-inch buckles,
8 ¾-inch ”
1 2½-inch buckle,
1 1½-inch ”
1 1¼-inch ”
1 plain ring bit.
No. 21.
MULE HARNESS.
BRIDLES.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown pieces 24 1½
Split 7
Cheeks 30 ⅞
Throat latches 22 ¾
Winker straps 13 1¼
Split 8
Front 22 1⅛
Reins, in one piece 78 ¾
PADS.
Top 34 1¾
Belly band folds 18 5
Chapes 7 1¼
Hame tugs 32 1½
Breeching fold 34 5
Hip straps 24 1¾
Split 18
Side straps 62 ⅞
Turnback 52 1
No. 22.
SHORT TUG BUTT CHAIN HARNESS.
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Hame tugs, to sew in side loops 36 1½
Short tugs for chains 52 1½
Pad fold 20 6
Layer, to include billet linings 48 1¼
Center lay for back strap 8 1
Bridle reins 78 ¾
All other parts the same as No. 16.
TRIMMINGS.
2 pairs of common high top hames,
2 common bits,
4 breeching loops for tugs,
2 pairs of butt chains,
6 1¾-inch breeching rings,
4 1-inch ” ”
4 ⅞-inch ” ”
12 1¼-inch buckles,
2 1½-inch ”
20 ⅞-inch ”
16 ¾-inch ”
4 1½-inch trace buckles.
TRIMMINGS FOR CARRIAGE-HARNESS.
No. 1.
Page 64.
2 1⅜ or 1½-inch terrets,
1 bolt-hook to match,
2 ⅞-inch shaft-tug buckles,
9 ½-inch buckles,
10 ⅝-inch ”
6 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,
2 gag-swivels,
2 1¼-inch breeching-rings,
2 1¼-inch martingale-rings,
1 half-cheek trotting-snaffle,
2 ⅝-inch rings,
4 saddle-nails.
No. 2.
Page 66.
2 1¼-inch terrets,
1 No. 4 bolt-hook,
1 No. 2 fly terret,
1 front,
2 rosettes,
2 ⅞-inch shaft-tug buckles,
2 gag-swivels,
2 1¼-inch breeching-rings,
2 1¼-inch martingale-rings,
4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,
2 ⅞-inch rein-buckles,
8 ½-inch bridle-buckles,
3 ⅝-inch buckles,
5 ¾-inch roller-buckles,
2 ⅜-inch buckles,
2 ¾-inch rings,
1 half-cheek snaffle.
No. 3.
Page 68.
2 1⅜ or 1½ inch terrets,
1 bolt-hook to match,
2 1-inch trace-buckles,
2 1-inch shaft-tug buckles,
9 ½-inch buckles,
7 ¾-inch ”
5 ⅝-inch ”
2 ⅞-inch rein-buckles,
2 1-inch roller-buckles,
2 1¼-inch martingale-rings,
2 1¼-inch breeching-rings,
1 snaffle-bit,
2 gag-swivels,
2 ⅝-inch rings,
4 saddle-nails.
No. 4.
Page 70.
1 pair ¹¹/₁₆-inch hames,
2 1½ or 1⅝-inch terrets,
1 bolt-hook to match,
2 1⅛-inch trace-buckles,
2 1-inch shaft-tug buckles,
4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,
3 ⅞-inch buckles,
5 ¾-inch ”
12 ⅝-inch ”
2 gag-swivels,
1 fly-terret,
2 1⅜-inch breeching-rings,
2 1⅜-inch martingale-rings,
2 rosettes,
1 snaffle-bit.
No. 5.
Page 72.
1 pair ¾-inch hames,
2 1⅝ or 1¾-inch terrets,
1 bolt-hook to match,
1 fly-terret to match,
2 1¼-inch trace-buckles,
2 1¼-inch shaft-tug buckles,
4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,
2 1¼-inch ”
1 ⅞ inch buckle,
6 ¾-inch buckles,
11 ⅝-inch ”
1 Hanoverian or scroll bit,
2 rosettes,
1 chain or link front,
2 gag-runners (hooks and eyes),
2 1½-inch breeching rings,
2 ⅝-inch rings,
4 saddle-nails.
No. 6.
Page 74.
1 pair ⁹/₁₆-inch hames,
2 1¼ or 1⅜-inch terrets,
2 fly or post hooks to match,
2 fly-terrets,
4 1-inch trace-buckles,
8 pad-screws,
6 ¾-inch roller-buckles,
4 ⅝-inch ”
8 1-inch ”
2 ⅝-inch buckles,
2 ⅜-inch ”
24 ½-inch ”
4 ⅝-inch rings,
2 Hanoverian or snaffle bits,
2 hame-rings,
4 gag-runners.
No. 7.
Page 76.
1 pair ⅝-inch hames,
4 1⅝ or 1¾-inch terrets,
2 fly-hooks to match,
2 fly-terrets,
4 1¼-inch trace-buckles,
4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,
4 ⅝-inch ”
2 ⅞-inch buckles,
4 ¾-inch ”
20 ⅝-inch ”
2 scroll or Hanoverian bits,
4 rosettes,
4 gag-runners,
2 hame-rings,
2 crupper-loops,
4 ⅝-inch rings,
8 pad-screws.
No. 8.
Page 78.
1 pair ¾-inch hames,
4 1⅝ or 1¾ inch terrets,
2 fly or post hooks,
2 fly-terrets,
4 1¼-inch center-bar loop trace-buckles,
4 1-inch tug-buckles,
8 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,
30 ¾-inch buckles,
8 ⅝-inch ”
4 ⅝-inch rings,
2 stiff scroll or Hanoverian bits,
2 Bradoon bits,
4 Bradoon swivels,
4 gag-swivels (hooks and links),
2 hame-rings,
12 pad-screws,
2 crupper-loops,
4 pad-loops.
Nos. 9 and 10.
Pages 80 and 82.
The trimmings for these harness are the same as for the regular sets
of double or single, with the exception of the ring-rosettes for the
bridles of the pole or shaft horses.
No. 11.
Page 84.
1 pair ⅞-inch hames,
2 1¾-inch terrets,
1 post or bolt hook to match,
1 fly-terret,
2 1½-inch trace-buckles,
2 1¼-inch shaft-tug buckles,
6 1¼-inch roller-buckles,
5 1-inch buckles,
1 ⅞-inch roller-buckle,
14 ¾-inch buckles,
1 plain ring-bit,
2 rosettes,
2 gag-runners,
2 1⅜-inch breeching-rings,
2 martingale-rings,
1 plain front,
2 ¾-inch rings,
4 saddle-nails.
No. 12.
Page 86.
1 pair ⅞-inch hames,
2 1⅞-inch terrets,
1 post or bolt hook,
1 fly-terret,
2 1⅞-inch trace-buckles,
2 1½-inch shaft-tug buckles,
6 1¼-inch roller-buckles,
4 1-inch buckles,
1 1-inch roller-buckle,
1 1¾-inch buckles,
1 ring-bit,
2 rosettes,
2 gag-runners,
2 1⅝-inch breeching-rings,
1 band-front,
4 saddle-nails.
CHAPTER VIII.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.
The man who performs his work well and quickly, possesses a capital
which can always be invested to good advantage to himself and his
employer; while the lack of the necessary skill and knowledge to
accomplish these results acts as a serious drawback to success. In
almost every factory there are those who, if they had received proper
instruction when learning their trade, would have made first-class
mechanics, but who, because of neglect on their own part, or on that
of their instructors, lack confidence in themselves when brought in
contact with others, and are content to hold secondary positions,
passing through life without benefit to their profession or profit to
themselves. Want of system is the great underlying fault, and is the
principal reason why success is so seldom attained.
The journeyman who works at his bench in a careless, hap-hazard manner
can not perform his part well, and is almost certain to interfere with
the labor of those near him, while by his example he inculcates in the
minds of the apprentices the same disregard for order and system as
exhibited by himself, thus working a permanent injury to all with whom
he comes in contact.
[Illustration: BREAST COLLAR, SINGLE HARNESS.]
There is on the part of mechanics a general disinclination to listen
to advice based upon theory, and from a knowledge of this fact the
author has prepared the following practical instructions in harness
making in its various parts, believing the end sought could better
be accomplished in this way than in any other. While it is not to
be expected that the rules here laid down can be followed in every
particular, it is believed that there is much that will be found
instructive and useful even to the most experienced journeyman, and
which if studied by the apprentice, or the journeyman who has been
deprived of opportunities to learn his business in detail, will serve
to advance them far more rapidly towards a mastery of their trade than
if they depended solely upon the ideas and practices acquired at the
work-bench.
The instructions given for making up a single harness will serve as a
general guide which may be followed in almost every case, as they point
out the routine to be followed and the manner of handling the stock.
To facilitate the execution of the labor and secure good results, the
workman must so fit up the various parts that the stitcher can perform
one class of work at a time; it will not do to call upon him to stitch
a round, then a loop, followed by folds and other parts. As far as
possible the rounds should be prepared at one time, the breeching,
hip, turnback, and other plain straps at another, then the folds,
loops, laps, and all other parts where there is any considerable work
of a kind, each by themselves, not perhaps in the order named, but in
such a manner that each particular class of work can be done without
interfering with another. In the following instructions for fitting up
a single harness, the rotation is such as to cause but little annoyance
to the stitcher, while at the same time the fitter is not compelled to
wait for any thing.
The plan here detailed is that followed in a factory where the leather
is cut out and given to the fitter, and the stitching done by men who
do nothing else. The leather being on the work-bench, the first act
is to wet all the stock thoroughly in blood-warm water, but care must
be taken to expose it to moisture long enough to draw the oil to the
surface; then skive down all the straps or parts thereof that are to
be made up into rounds, such as the winker brace, gag runners, center
of breast collar, shaft tugs, and crupper dock. Slick them out and lay
them aside to dry, then with a sharp spokeshave remove the flesh quite
closely from the crown piece, check rein billets, belly band billets,
center-piece, and cheeks; slick them out, apply a thick coat of clean
tallow, and lay them aside to dry where they will not be exposed to the
sun or to the heat from a stove, as such exposure will turn the stock
dark and cause the tallow to spew. The fleshing is not necessary on
fine stock, but where it is requisite it should be done at this time.
Next skive the breeching, belly band, breast collar, and neck piece
layers, slick them out and lay them aside to dry; then skive down the
trace fillings or raise to the required thickness, and take the edges
down thin with a wide edge tool. Next proceed to skive down the top
and bottom, and slick them out, after which raise the top and paste
in the filling (avoid using more paste than is absolutely necessary),
moisten the top of the trace with a damp sponge and rub it down with a
bone, reverse the straps so that the butts will run up on the outside
and down on the inside, then paste on the bottom, wet it in the same
manner as directed for the top, rub it down with a bone, and then rub
the trace well with a rag: this will give the grain a fine, soft finish
that can not be secured in any other way. Then skive down the tops
and bottoms of the breeching straps, slick them out, block, crease,
and punch holes in the bottom for the buckles; take the edges down on
the bottom to form the raise on the top, raise the latter, and paste
down for a distance of four feet; skive the tops and bottoms of the
hip straps, slick them out, and take down the edges of the bottoms to
form the raise for the tops; cut them off three feet eight inches long,
round the ends, paste on the tops, and rub them with a bone and rag;
lay them aside, and when they are sufficiently dry so that the paste
will not move they are ready to sink, but do not dry them in the sun or
near the fire, as such heat will harden the stock and cause the paste
to dry unevenly.
Next fit up the shaft tug—eight inches for a seven-eighth inch tug—the
straps being cut one and one eighth inches wide. Take off one eighth
of an inch on each edge of the portion to be fitted up, raise and
fill in the remaining portion so as to take up the quarter inch that
was trimmed off the outside, channel the inside so that the stitches
will be buried out of sight, and lay them aside to dry. Now fit the
dock, mark off and cut it out, crease the edges with a fine crease,
prick off twelve inches, take the edges down quite thin and bend the
two together. Next fit the rounds, commencing with those for the gag
runners and following with those for the throat latch and breast
collar. Take the edge off the full length of the part to be rounded,
and channel with a small round knife from the edge. The gag runners
for a half-inch bridle require to be channeled four inches, the
center-piece for a breast collar four and one half inches, and the
throat latch sixteen inches; hammer the straps down, and fill them if
they require it.
The winker brace is the next strap to be prepared. The billet is four
and one half inches long; raise and crease it, hammer up the rounds
(which are seven and three quarter inches long), line the billet, and
allow the end of the lining to enter the round one inch; have the
latter stitched, paste the billet down, and crease it when dry. Next
prepare the breeching tugs. The round for the front one should be
channeled three and three quarter inches, the back one four inches;
black the part which passes around the rings, prick in the center,
and tack in the rings. Follow these by the martingale. Mark off three
quarters of an inch from the end to round in, then five inches for
laps, channel seven inches, raise, crease, and black the laps; mark
out, cut, and crease the layers; hammer up and fill the rounds, and
have them stitched; then prick off the laps and have them stitched.
Next fit up the turnback. First mark off two inches for the laps on the
ends of the dock billets; channel seven inches for the rounds; raise
the laps, then mark off and cut out the wave, skive down the edges,
hammer up the rounds, and fit the lining, allowing it to extend down
so as to form the filling for the rounds; have the latter stitched,
round them up, and paste up the turnback; when dry, mark off the wave
the full length, and sink the crease for the stitching. Go over all
lined straps and turnback, after having marked off the wave or other
pattern, with a sharp tickler, then heat the heavy sinker and finish
the sinking. Slick the tallow off the crown and center pieces, cheeks,
belly band and check rein billets, and spokeshave the edges to clean
them thoroughly. Then fit up the check reins, round the points of the
billets, take a light edge off the flesh side, but do not disturb the
grain; dampen the edges with a sponge and water, rub them with a bone
until they are smooth, and, when dry, black, and rub them with prepared
tallow, composed of one third part beeswax and two third parts pure
beef tallow; rub them with a bone and then with a rag, so that the
flesh side will be kept clean, crease the edges with a hot iron, crease
and apply a little gum tragacanth (prepared by dissolving the gum in
water and adding good black ink to give it color and preserve it), then
rub with a bone.
Proceed in like manner to fit up and finish the centercheck, belly band
billets, cheek billets, and crown-piece billets, after which prepare
the stock for the round check reins. First measure off three inches for
laps at billet ends, next fourteen inches for rounds, then four and
one half inches for laps at rings, and three quarters of an inch to
round in; cut the laps at the ring down to full one half inch in the
center, and taper each way; leave the full substance where the leather
turns round the rings, hammer up and fill the rounds, and have them
stitched before fitting up the laps. Then mark off and cut out the
patent leather winkers, frogs, etc. Scratch the lines for stitching,
black over, and rub in a little tallow where scratched, and go over
with a heavy sinker, which will tend to improve the appearance after
the stitching is done. Paste up the winkers, but be careful to avoid
wetting the patent leather, as the water will cause it to lose its
fine gloss; stitch up the joining seam, leaving about three quarters
of an inch on the top edge near the corner for the winker strap; apply
a little paste to the inside of the winker plate, shove it in between
the lining and the patent leather, and rub down on the outside with
a gig or “jakee,” then apply a little paste to the inside where it
goes between the cheek straps, and tack down on a board to dry. When
thoroughly dry, trim off with a knife and spokeshave the edges; dampen
them with a sponge and rub with a bone, allowing the leather to become
dry before blacking. After being blacked, tack the winker in its place
between the cheek-straps. Next mark out by the patterns the layers
for the breeching, breast collar, neck piece, belly bands, and crown
piece, cut them out and take down the edges with a wide edge tool, then
spokeshave them to remove the ridges, wet and raise them on the raise
block, rub off with a rag, crease with a double creaser, and then go
over them with a sinker; when dry, black the edges and prick off. Cut
out and raise the safes for the breast collars and belly bands, paste
them on the folds, and when nearly dry double crease them; prick off
when dry, have them stitched and afterwards trim them off, wet all the
folds, hammer them down, put in the filling, sew up, crease the edges,
and tack them on the layers.
Finishing up the rounds is the next thing in order. Wet them and trim
off the fillings, hammer down and pull them through the rounder, clean
off with a spokeshave if necessary, black them, rub on a little tallow,
pull them through the rounder again, and rub them down with a wooden
rounder and a little gum. Wet the docks, hammer down the seams over a
wire, stuff with flaxseed, working it down with a wire, trim the edge
with an edge tool, black it, and rub down with a wooden creaser to fit
the seam; bend the dock to the required shape, and lay it aside to dry.
Next punch the breeching, hip straps, and turnbacks, wet them, slick
down the stitching from the back side, and rub the tops with a rag;
crease the edges over with a hot iron creaser; trim the projecting
edges of the turnback lining with a round knife, then take off a heavy
edge with a spokeshave, and trim with a straight knife where it is
necessary; dampen the edges with a moist sponge, and rub smooth with a
bone; when dry, black them and rub on a little tallow, after which rub
with a bone and a rag, and finish with a bone and a little gum. When
the dock becomes dry, polish it with a hot burnisher and tack it on the
turnback; have the laps stitched, trim and finish them up. Then trim
and finish the shaft tugs, and polish the insides with a burnisher.
Trim and finish the cheeks, put in the winker brace and stitch it. Trim
the traces, punch and then wet them, slick them on the back, hammer the
edges down with a “snob” or shoemaker’s hammer, and square them with a
spokeshave; then with a heavy edge tool take the edge off the top and
bottom, spokeshave them, trim the ends and around the dart holes with a
straight knife, dampen the edges and rub them down with an awl handle
(one that will fit the trace); when dry, black the edges, rub on the
tallow, and again rub with the awl handle; then rub off with a rag and
afterwards with the awl handle and a little gum. Next finish the folds
by wetting the backs, with a moist sponge, then slick them down, wet
the tops a little and rub them down with a rag, crease the edges of the
layers with a hot creaser, and recrease the folds. This completes the
harness in detail, and offers a perfectly accurate guide for a workman,
whether working by himself or in a factory.
Uniformity can be obtained only by the use of good patterns, and it
is to the interest of every harness maker that they be kept in good
condition. To do this, cut them out of paper and paste them on thin,
stiff patent leather, then, when the paste is dry, cut the leather to
the shape of the paper patterns. All patterns for breechings, breast
collars, neck pieces, belly bands, turnbacks, martingales, and crown
pieces should be cut to the full length, and if cut at the same time to
the required width it will obviate the necessity of moving them while
marking off on the leather. The pattern for the trace wave should be
cut one half the length of the trace.
CHAPTER IX.
MAKING SINGLE STRAP TRACK HARNESS.
The single strap track harness owes its origin to the demand for a
light, close-fitting, medium priced article for use on the trotting
course. Originally the collar and traces only were made of single
straps, the breeching and other parts being made in the usual manner.
The superiority of this method of making the collar, however, soon
became so apparent that the breechings and all other portions were made
to correspond, and now few harness made up in other ways are used on
the trotting tracks, while very many of this style can be seen upon
trotters on the roads and pleasure drives, and so popular have they
become that there are few sections of the country where they are not
used to a greater or less extent.
[Illustration: HAME COLLAR, SINGLE HARNESS.]
Notwithstanding their being made up of single thickness of leather
and in the plainest manner, the exercise of more than ordinary skill
and attention is required to perfect them, as in their make-up they
represent the minimum amount of weight, and yet must of necessity
possess great strength. This result can be attained only by using
leather of the best quality. Sides of uneven substance can not be
employed to good advantage, owing to the fact that much of the
strongest portion of the leather is necessarily wasted in reducing all
the straps to a uniform thickness. Young steer-hides weighing about
sixteen pounds to the side are the best: they not only give better
satisfaction when made up, but they are more economical, owing to the
small amount of waste incurred. But even with these sides only the
backs should be used, as strength is the great end to be sought after.
Having selected a side possessing the requisite qualifications, cut
from the strongest portion the traces and all other straps except
those for the breast collar, breeching, and bridle. These can be cut
from lighter sides, those weighing from ten to twelve pounds being the
best. When the single strap harness were first manufactured the breast
collar and breeching bodies were cut from regular weight stock, and
the edges skived off from the underside, but experience has shown that
lighter sides are much more suitable, the leather being more pliant and
stronger in proportion to its weight, the strapping when made up sets
closer to the horse, and the edges do not roll after being in use for
a short time. This latter qualification is of the greatest importance,
and should of itself cause the use of light leather.
When extra fine curried leather can not be procured, well tanned stock,
treated as has been directed on page 55, will answer for all but the
finest grades, as it will possess the requisite strength, and in many
cases can be given a fine finish. Let the leather be what it may,
however, the flesh side should be well cleaned off and worked down with
a slicker, as the slightest roughness would detract from the appearance
of the harness, while adding to the possibility of injury to the horse
from chafing.
The most important parts of this harness are shown by the sectional
drawings on page 125. I represents a section of the breast-collar, with
trace attached. The trace, A, is of single thickness; the lap on the
body is eleven inches long, cut as shown or to some other ornamental
pattern. The ring to which the neck strap tug is attached is placed
five inches from the end of the body; the trace is stitched on with
from ten to fourteen stitches to the inch according to the grade of
the harness. The neck strap tug is quite short, and is provided with
a three eighth inch loop above the buckle, and a seven-eighth inch
loop below. When made up to measure, the tug is often dispensed with,
the neck strap being stitched to the ring, thus doing away with the
buckles. In the finer grades the traces and bodies are neatly creased.
The common qualities are in some instances made up without creasing,
while in others the imitation stitch wheel is used for the purpose of
ornamenting. The latest freak is to mark off in the same manner as
though the layers were full length, and to lay up the ornaments in
imitation of layers. The plain strap is, however, the most popular,
looks the neatest, and is more easily kept clean. [Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
A section of the breeching is shown by II, together with the breeching
tug and buckle chape. The layer, A, is twelve inches long when made up.
The end at the breeching ring is skived off so that the ring lap will
be smooth and true. The tugs or braces, C, are most commonly rounded,
but plain flat straps are also used; these are doubled and stitched, as
they would neither be sufficiently strong nor keep their shape if of
single thickness; the ring for securing the back tug is placed about
eight inches from the breeching ring. The buckle chape, D, is provided
with a loop over as well as below the buckle, though in cheap grades
this may be omitted.
A half section of the neck strap is shown by III. This is cut of plain
leather, the end is cut straight a distance of about six inches, above
which there is a waved section five inches long, the remaining portion
being straight, but a little wider at the center than at the top of the
wave. There is no stitching to be done on this strap, but a crease is
run around it near the edge.
A section of the outside belly band, or shaft girth, is shown by IV.
The billet, A, is stitched to the body with the flesh side out, the
buckle being laid under between the billet and the body, B, so that
when the former is wrapped around the shaft, the grain side will be
out. One end of the short belly band is shown by V. The buckle chape
is stitched on far enough below end to allow the latter to act as a
safe. The safety-strap, a most important feature of a harness of this
kind, is shown by VI. It is in fact an extra back-band, cut in one
piece and placed over the saddle, with the ends buckled into the shaft
tug buckles or into extra shaft-tugs, the former, however, being the
most convenient form of attachment. The holes, A, are cut sufficiently
large to allow the rein terrets to pass through them. In some cases the
safety-strap is made up of a single thickness of leather throughout,
but in others a lining about twelve inches long is stitched on to
strengthen the strap at the terret holes.
The whiffletree ends of the traces are lined for about one foot, or
three or four inches more than the space occupied by the dart-holes.
This is generally done by turning back the extra stock, the trace being
cut the full length of the side. Three dart holes are cut in, about
two inches apart, and the lined section, as well as the edges of the
dart-holes, are stitched.
The bridle used is generally a half-inch flat strap with small square
winkers and a full or half Kemble Jackson check. All the straps on the
harness require to be neatly rounded on the edges, and blacked and
finished on the flesh sides.
This harness is represented by Plate 1, engraved from a photograph of
the celebrated trotting-mare Goldsmith Maid. The lengths and widths for
cutting are given in table No. 1.
CHAPTER X.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS.
In making up team-harness there is as good an opportunity for a workman
to display genius in designing and skill in execution as there is in
making the most elaborate coach or fine, light carriage harness. The
difference, however, being that in the one skill in decorating as well
as in finishing are the primary points to be considered, while in the
other adaptability, strength, and fit are first to be secured, after
which attention may be turned to finishing and trimming. The idea is
by far too prevalent that it requires but little skill to make a farm
harness, and unskilled, cheap workmen are employed who could not make
up carriage harness of any kind. A good, careful mechanic will not only
make the team harness better than the careless one, but he will, with
no more expense, give it a much finer finish, thus producing a more
salable and durable article.
[Illustration: TEAM HARNESS.]
In selecting stock, be governed by the directions laid down in Chapter
I. Having chosen a side suitable for the weight of harness to be made,
proceed to cut out the various straps by first straightening the back,
and measuring off a strip from 18 to 20 inches wide; draw a line
with a straight edge, and cut the side in two pieces; the back will
contain the heaviest and firmest part of the leather, the belly and
flanks that which is softer and more uneven. Before cutting out the
straps examine the grain as well as the flesh side carefully, to see
that there are no cuts or imperfect spots; too much care can not be
taken in this respect, as a blemish, no matter how slight, will show
after the leather is wet up and while being worked. If the harness
to be cut is a heavy one select a large spread side which will weigh
from twenty to twenty-two pounds, cut the traces and all other straps
which receive the strain, from the back, the folds, chapes, etc., from
the belly part. The traces should be cut 76 inches long and 1¾ inches
wide; if the leather is even and of suitable thickness, filling will
not be necessary. The breast and pole straps should be cut next after
the traces, the former 66 inches long and 1¾ inches wide, the latter
54 inches long and 1¾ inches wide. After the buckle is sewed on, slip
on a ring for the collar strap. Cut the collar strap 34 inches long
and 1 inch wide. Use wrought-iron cockeyes for the traces, and in
addition to the stitching secure each buckle and ring chape with copper
rivets; these relieve the stitching from much of the strain that would
otherwise be put upon it. Cut the hame tugs from heavy, even leather of
equal strength with that used in the traces; they should be 18 inches
long after being fitted up, and of the same width as the trace; the
laps should not be less than 3 inches long. Use firm leather for the
loops, channel on the back to allow the stitches to sink below the
surface, and trim the edges a slight bevel. Cut the bottom hame strap
of good, firm leather, 26 inches long and 1 inch wide; the top strap,
28 inches long and 1 inch wide, of strong but more pliable stock, as it
has to adjust itself to the shape of the top of the collar pad.
Pads for these harness are made up in a variety of ways, the old style
soft pad being the most desirable. Cut the top of good, even, and
moderately heavy stock 22 inches long and 1¾ inches wide, narrow the
ends to 1½ inches, tapering up 3½ inches; cut the ring piece 26 inches
long by 1¼ inches wide, and round up 5 inches in the center; fit the
ring piece to the pad top with the round well raised up, and place a
martingale ring under the round for a tie strap ring; then stitch a
ring on each end of the top. For the nut pieces cut straps 18 inches
long and 1¾ inches wide, of heavy, firm stock. At the ends of the round
ring piece punch a hole for the pad screw; 3½ inches from that point
punch another for the back-strap loop. To make a showy pad, use a
patent leather housing.
The breeching folds should be cut from the smoothest part of the
flank, and shaved down to an even thickness. If the harness maker will
treat the folds as directed in regard to rein leather, he can produce
a broken grain which will look much better than the plain leather,
and will not so readily show checks from use. Cut the fold forty-four
inches long and five inches wide. In all cases cut folds wider than
the actual measurements, as the leather will narrow down in places
while being worked; they can be cut to the required width, when ready
for fitting up. Cut canvas of the requisite width and fill in the
folds; coat the leather on the flesh side with tallow, and also apply
warm tallow to the fillings. This will secure a durable job. Cut the
back strap five feet long and one and a quarter inches wide; split it
fifty two inches, leaving a short part uncut to wrap around the ring.
If the leather is not heavy, use a wear leather where the back strap
is attached to the hame rings. Stitch the hip straps to the rump rings
before fitting up the bucklepiece. If a pad-safe is used under the
rump ring, cut it half an inch wider than the rump strap, stitch it
on with the edges even, and leave the swell end open, to permit its
being stuffed with hair. For lead-ups for the breeching, use a six and
one half inch chape of sufficient width for the buckle; cut the layer
eleven inches long and seven eighths of an inch wide, with a hole under
the buckle for the hip strap points to pass through. Use one and three
quarter rings for the breeching and one inch ring for the center lead
up.
Cut the side straps from the center of the side, as it is necessary
that they be of even thickness. These should be six feet long and one
inch wide, leaving six inches for the turnback; fit up with two loops,
and use a snap and a slide loop to hold the latter to its place.
Make the belly bands of heavy folds, five and one half inches wide and
eighteen inches long; lap the edges in the center, contracting the ends
to the width of the buckle chapes; stitch through the center with one
row.
The bridles, though plain, are a very important part of a harness of
this kind, and the workman who slights them makes a great mistake.
They need to be larger than other kinds, as the horses they are used
upon are heavier. The fronts should be sufficiently long to allow the
crown pieces to lay one inch back of the root of the horses’ ears. A
short front will draw the crown pieces forward and spoil the set of the
bridle. Fifteen to sixteen inches should be the length used. The length
of the crown is another important consideration; under no circumstances
should it be less than twelve inches between the billet splits, the
whole length being twenty-four inches. The cheeks should be seven
eighths of an inch and throat latch three quarters of an inch wide. Cut
the former thirty inches long; set the buckle above the winker. The
winker braces should be cut fifteen inches long, rounded nine inches;
cut the face piece twenty-one inches long, and split it ten and one
half inches. All straps on the bridle other than the face and winker
should be flat. Cut the inside checks sixty-one inches and outside
checks twenty-six inches long, by three quarters of an inch wide; make
up the outside with a ring for take-up. Use a plain leather winker, six
by four and one half inches, with round corners and an oval end. These
wear better and are less liable to be damaged than the square winkers.
Cut the lines from the best part of a side weighing about sixteen
pounds; see that there are no cuts on the grain or flesh side. Make
them up flat, about twenty-four feet long and one inch wide. The inside
or cross lines must be six feet six inches long; billets, twelve inches
long; finish off the ends with a billet in such a manner that a snap
can be attached if desired.
The mountings, though of the plainest kind, must be strong, and in
neglecting to procure those suited to the strain to be borne, harness
makers often entail pecuniary loss upon themselves and injure their
reputation. A weak buckle, ring, or hame, operates just as injuriously
to the harness maker as though the leather used was inferior in quality
and the workmanship poor. The trace buckles are subjected to a severe
test, and unless they are strong and perfect they will not sustain the
heavy strain put upon them. There are a variety of patent trace buckles
in the market, and, owing to strong competition, prices have been very
much reduced, so that manufacturers have been tempted to make them much
lighter than they should be. It is necessary, therefore, to examine
them closely, and to buy the strongest and those most easily adjusted.
The hames, which are of wood, should be strong and of good shape,
provided with extra rings for split back strap and loose loops at the
bottom. The small buckles should be strong and of a good pattern—that
is, so shaped that the strap is not bent too much in passing through,
and the edges are not borne too heavily upon. The common wire horseshoe
buckle, which is used more than any other, is the poorest article in
the market. The “Sensible” is a good buckle, and there are others which
answer quite as well, a full description of which is given in the
chapter on harness mountings. But of all the buckles made, there is
none better than the large barrel roller-buckle for a draft harness:
this possesses great strength, is easily loosened, and does not cut the
strap in the least.
The stitching throughout should be done with white thread, as it is
much stronger than black; it can be colored easily when blacking up for
finishing. Traces and tugs should have six or seven stitches; all other
straps eight or ten to the inch. Coarse stitching is the strongest, and
accords best with heavy harness.
The above instructions, though ostensibly for a team harness, can be
followed in a general way in making up all kinds of draft harness. The
following practical working guide will be understood by the workman.
Before doing any thing toward fitting up, see that every strap is cut
and laid upon the work-bench. First skive down all the folds, wet them
and slick them out, cut them to the required lengths, and skive down
and shape ends; fold them and hammer them down; fill them with canvas,
felt, or leather, and sew them up; then shape up the chapes, skive down
the ends, punch the buckle-holes, and black and crease the edges; tack
on the chapes and layers, and as soon as the leather is dry they can be
stitched.
Before stitching the folds, wet all the stock, allow it to dry a
little, then slick it out, point up the straps, take off the edges
where it is necessary, and crease while damp. If the edges are rubbed
down at the same time, they will finish better when dry; but the
blacking must not be applied until after the leather is dry. If folded
traces are used, mark a line in the center on the flesh side, and with
a gouge take out about one half the thickness of the stock. This will
prevent the leather cracking when being bent over. If doubled and
stitched traces are used, paste up, tack, and crease them, and lay them
one side to dry. Fit up the breeching tugs, turn four inches; use loops
one eighth inch narrower than the tugs. Crease and stitch the winkers,
put some paste on the plates, and shove them in; rub down with a round
end slicker, and tack them on a board to dry. Fit up the winker brace,
wet it thoroughly, and bend it like the letter B; tack it down, and
allow it to dry before being stitched in. Make all the laps on the
bridle two inches long; lap billets, three inches.
After all the straps are dry and stitched, trim the edges, using a
spokeshave instead of glass to true them; black them, and then apply a
little tallow and rub with a rag. Clean up the loops, and the harness
will be ready to receive the final finish.
HEAVY ORNAMENTAL TRUCK HARNESS.
Among the many devices resorted to for the purpose of advertising a
special business is the use of display teams, the harness for which is
made in the most expensive manner; and it is no uncommon occurrence for
a four-horse set to cost $2000, or a single set to cost $1200. As all
these harness are made up in special styles, according to the taste of
the party ordering them, a general description is all that is necessary.
The bridles are made up full coach style, the winkers square, with
slightly-rounded corners; swivel gag runners are used, and the
ornaments are alike on both sides; the cheeks, throat latches, and
reins are cut three quarters of an inch wide; the winker braces are
generally rounded; the face pieces are made with ornamental pendants,
and are lined and stitched throughout. The entire bridle is fitted up
with as much care as though designed for a coach harness. The metallic
ornaments are of an appropriate design, to illustrate the business of
the owner.
The wheel harness have no pads; the crupper or back straps extending
forward to the top hand straps; the crupper bodies are made with wide
scroll safes, padded; the layers, which extend the entire length of the
safes, are cut to a suitable ornamental pattern, made up martingale
fashion, lined and stitched with four rows, fourteen to sixteen to the
inch.
[Illustration: HEAVY DRAFT HARNESS.]
The hip straps for each breeching are cut in one piece, having a swell
two and a half inches wide, the split ends being one inch wide; between
the ends there are ornamental pendants, which are cut out of the same
strap, fitted up quite full, and stitched with four rows, the center of
the frog being provided with a metallic ornament; the hip straps are
secured to the crupper body by metallic screws.
The breeching bodies are of solid leather, two and three quarter inches
wide; the layer straight and stitched with four rows; the layers and
hip straps are stitched fourteen to the inch; the tugs have full safes,
with loops before and after the buckles; on each tug is an ivory ring
in place of the ordinary breeching rings: they are put up the same as
collar buckles, having loops for the tugs and trace bearer frogs, the
latter being of some neat, appropriate pattern.
The breeching straps act as pole straps as well, as they extend from
the breeching to the neck yoke, and are provided with heavy straps
at the pole ends, and attached to the breeching martingale fashion.
Bearing straps are attached to the forward ends, and are secured to the
harness by swivel snap hooks.
The traces and safes are cut in one piece, the safe end being four
and one half, the other portion two inches wide, and attached to the
harness by a heavy loop and three plated-head rivets; they have three
straight rows of stitches, ten to the inch.
The lead harness, bridles, traces, and collars are made up the same
as those for the pole team, except that they are lighter; they have,
however, pads, but no breeching. The former are of plain leather, cut
in one piece, with swelled sides doubled throughout and made very firm,
the bearing part lined and padded, and the tops stitched in the same
manner as the tops of coach pads. The trace bearers are made heavy and
strong, and in addition to being stitched to the pad by four rows they
are each fastened by two pad-screws, to which are fastened ivory rings;
rings are also attached to the top in the center of each pad through
which the turnback passes to the hame straps. The cruppers are made up
in the same manner as those of the pole harness, excepting that they
are provided with billets for the docks; the latter are extra large.
The loin straps are made up in the usual coach style, with swell ends
and hip ornaments and trace bearers the same as those on the pole
harness.
The mountings are generally silver-plated, all the buckles being the
“sunk bar.” The round reins are of russet, and the hand parts of heavy
buffed leather. The collars are heavy, having piped throats, lined with
thin harness leather.
CHAPTER XI.
MAKING GIG SADDLES.
Formerly every harness maker made up his own gig saddles, and any
general information on that line of manufacture was of great value,
but of late years a large percentage made are by parties who carry
on the business of saddle making exclusively, or in connection with
winkers, fronts, etc., and but few harness makers can afford to make
up the lower grades of saddles. There are those, however, who will
not purchase ready-made saddles, and they would not think the manual
complete without some instruction upon this very important branch of
the harness business. To such the following plain details may prove of
great value. The tree selected is the well known Tompkins, it being
used more generally than any other.
The covering of the seat is the first part to be performed. To do
this and make a perfect job, fit up the tree; for no matter how well
it may have been made, there may be rough spots on the iron, and the
wood in the cantle may need to be reduced in thickness. After having
thoroughly cleaned the tree, unscrew the seat and remove it from the
frame; varnish it with shellac varnish to prevent its rusting, or,
better still, draw on a piece of sheepskin. When it is dry, proceed to
prepare and draw on the seat leather, as follows: Cut a piece of patent
collar leather, of the size required for the seat to be covered, dampen
it with warm water, but do not wet the varnish and avoid using too much
water; stretch it to conform somewhat to the desired shape, put a tack
on each side of the cantle, and clip the edges to admit of its being
drawn down. Pull each way and cut off the surplus leather, then sew
the parts underneath the seat with a cross stitch, after which pull
up the cantle part and tack it all around to the wood. Cut a piece of
leather of about the size and substance of the middle leather (this is
to be removed when the jockeys are put on,) place it in position, and
screw the seat to the frame in order to secure the seat leather firmly
in its place; use a washer temporarily until the seat is screwed on to
remain; then file off the projecting portion of the screw. When the
seat leather becomes dry, put on the back pieces, draw the tacks from
the cantle, cut off some of the surplus leather, dampen the part over
the cantle edge, and with a pair of plyers set up the leather drawn
over the cantle, clipping it where needed. Cut a piece of patent collar
leather for the back piece of the cantle, of the same shape as the
seat leather; fit it nicely, and punch holes for the crupper loop, and
cut apart from the hole to the bottom; secure it in position by a few
tacks, and prepare it for the binding. To do this, use a single thread
carefully in such a manner that the stitches will not show through the
binding, paste the two upper edges together, and hammer to make them
firm and smooth. When dry, cut off the surplus leather, leaving just
enough to form a binding-edge, and with a very sharp edge tool trim the
back part, and it will be ready for the binding. To bind, cut a strip
of enameled leather, about seven eighths or one inch wide (cutting
parallel with the grain to prevent the varnish from cracking) and of
the proper length, which can be ascertained by stretching it over the
cantle edge; skin one side to a thin edge, paste, and with a slicker
turn down the edge one quarter of an inch, rub it down and crease it
for stitching; then draw it over the cantle, tack one end properly and
carefully adjust it in its place until the circle is completed and the
other end secured in the same way. Regulate it with a slicker (which
should be about one inch wide to work well), after which allow it to
dry, and stitch as neatly as possible; when stitched, slick, regulate,
and trim off the binding on the back part, black the trimmed edge, and
it will be ready for the jockeys.
To prepare the frame for the seat and jockeys, trim off the rough edges
from the middle leather, cut two pieces of hard stock, about six inches
long and of the same width as the depressions in the frame, skive down
one end of each piece, and tack one in each of the depressions, with
the skived ends toward the center; holes must be punched in them for
the terret nuts, which should be secured with annealed or clout nails
passed through the leather and clinched.
To make the jockeys, take a pattern of the required size, made of
heavy leather or sheet iron, scribe and cut the jockeys, if for a
covered seat, in two pieces; if for a japanned seat, in one piece; for
a covered seat, skive the parts that meet on the center of the tree,
dampen with water, and bend them to fit nicely over the seat. After
stitching the jockeys, take off the edge with an edge tool, black, and
rub smooth, and polish with a little ballblack. When they are ready,
tack them to the middle leather on the frame in their proper place,
screw on the seat, file off the screw if too long, wet the front and
back edges of the seat leather, carefully draw it down, tack the front
and rear, then trim off all surplus leather, and it is ready for the
flaps.
The crupper loop should be covered before the seat and frame are put
together. Cover it with plain or enameled leather, in the same manner
as in covering a buckle or ring, and, when dry, stitch firm, trim off
the edges, black, and rub smooth. To cut the flaps, patterns should be
provided the same as for the jockeys; lay them on the leather, scribe
around them with a round awl, and cut them out, true and smooth, with
a sharp round knife; grease the under side with hard tallow, but do
not allow it to touch the cut edges; immerse them in water for a few
minutes, then lay them aside until the water has softened the leather
enough for it to receive the crease-mark; a little grease applied to
the glazed side will prevent the creaser scratching. After creasing,
allow them to dry, then bevel and black the edges.
To flap off, cut the ends of the flaps to the requisite shape, so as
to allow a portion to settle down in the depressions of the tree on
the top of the stiffeners, leaving room for the back-bands; fit the
parts nicely, butting them against the crupper, so that the jockeys
will hit the guide marks on the flaps; place them so that the tree is
in the center, and nail through the holes in the frames, clinching the
nails on a flat iron. The back-bands being in their place on the flaps,
adjust them on the tree, punch holes in them for the terret shanks,
tack them fast, and secure the nuts with clout nails. After putting in
the forepiece, sew down the jockeys. If the flaps are lengthened in
front, the forepiece can be dispensed with when making cheap saddles.
To make the leather loops, cut two pieces of thin harness leather,
three and a half inches long and one and a quarter inches wide; also
two other pieces of good leather, about as heavy as bridle leather, one
inch wide by three and a quarter inches long; paste these on the thin,
wide pieces, then cut four strips, a little more than one eighth of an
inch wide, from the heaviest leather (as it is easier to paste before
cutting); paste them three sixteenths of an inch from the outer edges,
pat them down with a hammer, and allow the paste to dry; when dry,
skive the ends, and they will be ready for the covering leather. Next
cut a piece of good enameled leather of sufficient width to cover the
body piece, shave down a little, slick out, cut in two pieces, paste
them, and put them around the body piece; while damp, bind them over a
piece of wood, three eighths of an inch thick on one edge, and, after
adjusting them to suit the eye, tack them to dry; when dry, stitch them
twenty to twenty-two stitches to the inch, and they will be ready to be
put in the flaps.
To lay up the points for stitching, rough out the upper pieces eleven
and a half inches long and three quarters of an inch wide, if for a
three-inch saddle or under, of good but not heavy leather; cut the
linings one and a half inches shorter and of lighter material; wet the
leather as directed on page 54, and when partially dry it will work
easily. If the upper pieces are not of uniform thickness, place the
heaviest ends next to the flaps; slick them smooth, lay on the pattern,
mark it, and cut out the ornamental section that is stitched on the
flap; skive down the uppers on the flesh side where they lay on the
flaps, leaving the edge the heaviest just at the end of the latter, as
they are liable to break at this point if not well protected. Round
the lower ends and skive them down a little on each edge; for a good
job, make the two parts a little oval by bending them over the edge of
a board, or by rubbing them down in a groove, crease the edge, and
afterwards crease for the stitching. Skive the linings on the edges,
paste them and the tops together, smooth with a rubbing-rag, and
let them dry, then stitch from ten to sixteen stitches to the inch,
according to quality. When stitched, dampen the leather a little,
slick down the under side, and crease the edges again; trim them to
the desired shape, black them, and rub smooth with a rag containing a
little tallow, and with a stiff brush clean off the stitches. They will
then be ready to attach to the flaps.
To make the back-bands, rough them out to the required length and
width, using the best quality of leather (the upper piece should be of
good substance, but the lining may be of lighter stock); dampen them
in the same manner as directed for the points, lay the upper pieces
together, and mark off twelve inches for the points and one inch for
rounding, if the parts above the points are to be ornamental; if not,
round four and a half inches, leaving the remaining portion flat, to
go under the jockeys and be secured by the terrets. The ornament above
the loop should be made to correspond with the other ornamental work
on the harness. Skive the edges of the under pieces, and cut the tops
to the desired width, leaving them a little wider at the loops; sew
the rounds where the loops are to go very strongly, round up smoothly,
and paste the top and linings together in good order above and below
the loop rounds (some prefer to paste up before sewing the rounds).
Crease up for straight or ornamental stitching, whichever best suits
the harness, and settle the mark for the stitches with a tickler. Where
there is not enough substance to make a firm job, a middle piece can be
used to advantage. Finish in the same manner as with the points.
To make the pad, cut the lining to the required shape, using the best
English serge, and the body piece of sheepskin or enamelled duck. If
the former is used, it may be necessary to cut this piece a little
smaller than when duck is employed, as it does not work up so much in
sewing, and it is not necessary to take quite so deep a hold. Sew them
together in the center with a few stitches on each side, to keep them
in place, and scribe guide marks crosswise on the sheepskin or duck,
to serve as guides for closing up the long cut after stuffing. Cut the
facings of patent leather about one inch wide for all saddles under
three inches, increasing the width for larger sizes. Be governed by the
dimensions of the body piece in the length of the facings and fillings;
the latter are preferably made of leather, but reeds are also used. In
preparing the fillings, reduce them in the center at the hook, also at
the ends, to make a good finish; baste the facings on the fillings with
long stitches, having them a little damp. Sew them all together—the
facings forming a welt, beginning at the center—with a strong thread,
about four stitches to the inch; finish the ends neatly.
After sewing, cut the body piece lengthwise, turn the pad, and
sew together with a long loop-stitch; the guide marks will assist
materially in so joining that the original position is maintained;
regulate the facings while damp. If there be sufficient time, tack
the pad out on a board in the shape to suit the flaps, and smooth the
facings with a half round creaser, the same as for any rounded piece,
and let it remain until thoroughly dry before stuffing. In making
common saddles this may be omitted, the whole being worked dry; but
with a good saddle these points must be observed. Stuff from the center
with well-beaten hair, a little at a time, working it evenly into
its place, and keeping it compact and smooth with a round awl; after
thus regulating it, quilt the pad up to the bearings, being careful
to have each side correspond. Next sew the lining to the body piece,
keeping the fullness of the lining drawn toward the lower ends of the
pad; stuff the bearings, and work with a round awl until they are
sufficiently full, then with a proper tool pound the pad where it is
quilted and stuffed, and it is ready for the saddle.
Before flapping, make the holes in the flaps for the loops, and
prepare each of the latter for stitching. After the flapping is done,
and before sewing down the jockeys, draw the loops in their places
over the rounds of the back-bands and down through the holes made for
them in the flaps, pulling them tightly to their places, and tacking
temporarily with small tacks; sew them to correspond with the stitching
on the jockeys, punch holes through the top ends of the back-bands
for the terrets, and nail them securely. Tacking is not absolutely
necessary, but it serves to make a firmer job. After so doing, put in
the terrets and hook, using annealed nails to secure the nuts, clinch
them thoroughly, and sew down the jockeys. Trim up, regulate, and put
in the pad, lace it thoroughly, clean off, and the saddle is finished.
Where a change is necessary in the shape of the flap, or larger or
smaller patterns are desired, strike a line lengthwise through the
center of the pattern, then take a pair of dividers and lay out the
shape or size preferred, working from the center-line; when the shape
is secured, cut one side, fold the pattern together, and cut the other.
In this way a true pattern is obtained, while no changes are made in
the part that fits the tree. Alter the patterns for the body and lining
to correspond.
CHAPTER XII.
PADS FOR COACH AND TEAM HARNESS.
The subdivision of labor and the improvements made during the past ten
or fifteen years have, by making specialties of certain parts, such
as pads, gig saddles, etc., taken some of the harness maker’s work
out of his hands, and enabled him to purchase ready-made articles at
reduced prices, yet there are times when these must be made under the
supervision of the manufacturer in order that they may correspond with
all other portions of the harness.
Patent pads, which constitute the greater portion of those made up
for the regular trade, are constructed in various ways, and as their
manufacture is confined to the patentees, no advantage would accrue to
the harness maker by a detailed description of the manner of putting
them together. Instruction, therefore, in this respect will be confined
to a few of the hand made pads which best represent their respective
classes; more than this it would be useless to do, as the variety of
style and processes of manufacture are so varied.
COACH AND CARRIAGE PADS.
By coach and carriage pads is meant all, whether light or heavy, that
are designed for carriage harness in contradistinction to those used
on team or draught harness. The process of manufacture is the same in
all cases, whether the pad be light or heavy. Directions for making
up will be confined to the pad, independent of the sides. The plates,
which should be of wrought-iron, must be trued up, and the ends filed
off thin and smooth. Cut out the top, punch the holes for the hook,
terrets, and pad screws, blind stitch the ornamental portion, and
stitch the pad plate lining to the top; trim off the edges to a sharp
under bevel, then split the lining lengthwise, insert the plate, and
whip stitch together with strong threads. Cut the socket piece of
harness leather one half inch larger all around than the top; the
point, or pole, as it is sometimes called, should extend from 1¼ to 1⅜
inches below the end of the plate; in cutting allow at least ⅜ of an
inch for fulness between the terret holes, and ⅛ of an inch between
the terret and pad screw holes. Skive off the edges on the flesh side
quite thin, and back ½ inch from the outer edge, punch holes for terret
nuts, insert them, and rivet them in place; in like manner insert the
nuts for the pad screws, and screw them in position by means of a small
cap piece stitched on. Screw in the pad hook, place the nut piece in
position, and pound down enough on the pad screw nut to obtain the
exact size, then remove the nut piece, and cut away for the pad hook
nut; then place the nut piece in position, screw in the terrets, insert
a short piece of harness leather the same width and thickness as the
pad side, and set in the pad screw (be careful to set the mock side
in proper position); then, with a hammer, set up the bolt piece to
the plate, work in all the fulness, and turn up the edges square and
smooth, and set the pad aside to dry. After the leather is dry, cut
the pad filling out of heavy felt, paste it on, and, when dry, trim to
the required shape. Cut the bottom from light collar leather, moisten
it on the flesh side, work it up smooth, and paste to the edges of the
nut piece; when dry, trim off flush with the top, skive the edges quite
thin, and paste on the binding, being careful to work it up smooth and
even; when dry, stitch across the center, leaving the gullet piece
about 1½ inches wide, then place the pad upon a block, and carefully
stitch the binding; trim the edge, and black if necessary. Pads put up
in this way are firm, and much easier to make than those in which hair
is used for stuffing.
The following directions apply to the manufacture of pads stuffed with
hair. The routine for making is also somewhat different: Prepare the
top and lining, and insert the plate as before directed, fit the hook
and crupper loop in their proper places, bend the latter up so that
it meets the edge of the top, fasten the screw or nut piece with a
pad screw to the top, and force it up in the center so as to obtain
the requisite fulness, mark the holes for the screws and terrets, and
also the outlines for the plate; make the pole 1¼ inches long, remove
the nut piece, and punch the burrow holes by the lower edges of the
marks; this will secure the necessary fulness in the center; skive
off the edges of the nut piece, secure the burrs to it, and fit it
up to the top with a hammer, being careful to turn the edges up true
and smooth, and set it aside to dry; when partially dry, repeat the
process so as to be sure that the edge is properly shaped; do not
remove the top until the nut piece is perfectly dry. Cut the bottom
piece out of collar leather; to get the proper size, make a pattern of
sheepskin. This is done by dampening it very lightly, turning up the
end around the gullet, tack it to the top, fit the other end around the
pole, and tack it in like manner, then turn up the edge all around,
and mark a line level with the top. This will give the exact shape
without fulness. Remove this piece, and draw a line for the swell, the
greatest fulness being opposite the center of the terret holes; taper
gradually to the center and ends, then cut the bottom piece to the new
line by the pattern upon the leather for the bottom piece, and cut it
out. Cut a small piece out of the center in order to obtain fulness
enough for the edges, whip together smoothly, turn the edges in the
center and fasten with a few stitches, draw the ends down and fasten
the points with tacks, paste between the burrs and the lining on the
edge, pop stitch together, leaving the ends open. Stitch across the
center, leaving a space 1½ inches, paste the bottom to the edges of the
nut piece, and, when dry, trim off to the required shape; paste the
binding, and, when dry, stitch carefully; trim the binding close to
the stitching, holding the knife so as to cut under in order to avoid
showing a ragged edge. In stuffing, first work out the edge, then fill
up the center, tapering off gradually to the point; close the ends and
tuft the point, and fit up to the top for the last time.
Fitting up the nut piece is the most important part of the work, and
care must be taken to secure the requisite fulness to make a good job;
also, to have the leather properly tempered so that it will retain the
shape given it.
SOFT PAD.
A very large majority of the plainer lines of farm and team harness are
made up with what is known as soft pads—that is, those without plates.
The great number of styles makes it impossible, in a work of this kind,
to give any more than a general notice, and as an illustration the one
shown on page 154 is selected. It is one of the best, and embraces the
general principles by which all soft pads are made. The tops and sides
are cut of one piece of heavy harness leather, forty-four inches long;
and, if designed for a one and three quarter trace harness, it is cut
one and a quarter inches wide in the center, two and a quarter inches
at the pad bilge, two inches at the side bilge, one and a quarter
inches at the narrowest point between the top and side bilges, and
seven eighths of an inch at the bottom. Treat the leather the same as
in making harness, and crease the edges with a double creaser.
[Illustration]
The pad bottom is cut of good fold leather. In making the pad, cut
a heavy piece of felt, nine inches long, for each side, of the same
shape as the pad top, but about one quarter of an inch narrower. Cut
extra pieces about five inches long to make the requisite fulness for
the bilge of the pad; cover the felt with the pad bottom, and lace the
edges of the latter together on the top (the pad bottom should be wet
while being worked, so that it can be fitted up to a good shape); then
secure it to the top by a single line of stitches, or by binding with
fancy colored leather, allowing the binding to terminate at the bottom
of the pad, or to extend across the top in the form of a fold as shown
by X, part A.
The pad trace bearer is shown by B; its full length is nineteen inches,
width at top three quarters of an inch, and at the bilge one and a
quarter inches; the upper end is attached to the pad top by a plated
rivet, and stitched from four and a half to five inches from the end.
The points are cut twelve inches wide and laid up on the pad side three
inches, the lower ends of the trace bearers rest on the points and are
stitched to them, one half inch bevelled plugs being placed between the
two; the whole is further strengthened by copper rivets. A ring for
the back strap is attached to the center of the pad by a chape stitched
and riveted on.
This pad is sometimes made up with a short plate, extending down far
enough to receive the pad trace bearer, a terret being used instead of
the rivet; when this is done, a loop check takes the place of the ring.
The parts represented are: A, pad top section; B, pad side section; C,
pad trace bearer; D, one line of the pad bottom; E, pad trace bearer in
position.
PLAIN HARD PAD.
This, while being much firmer and stronger than the soft pad, is but
little more difficult to make. It is designed for heavy wagon harness
where terrets and hooks are to be used. A very good idea of its
construction and appearance may be gathered from the illustration on
page 157, which represents the various pieces drawn to one third their
actual size.
The top, which is shown by section 1, is cut out of heavy patent or
harness leather; the openings show the positions of the pad screw and
terret: this may be blind stitched if desired, but for general use it
is quite as salable if left plain. If harness leather is used, trim the
edges to a light oval and crease them with a fine creaser.
[Illustration]
The bottom piece or lining is shown by section 2; this is cut of light
harness or fold leather. The socket piece, the lower end of which is
shown below the pad top 1, is cut to the same shape as the top, a point
a little below the center of the hole for the pad screw, then it takes
the shape designated by the dotted lines.
The housing is shown by section 3. This is made of patent leather with
a scolloped border bound around the edge, as shown by A; the square
hole showing the space cut away to admit the back-band.
The pad plate is shown by section 4. This is of wrought or malleable
iron with threads cut in the holes for the pad screws and terrets; the
crupper loop is cast or forged upon the plate.
In making up this pad, cut the socket piece from patent leather, the
same size as the plate, and secure it to the latter by means of copper
rivets at the points designated by X, section 4; then draw over the
bottom and tack it to the socket piece, the nails clinching as they
come in contact with the plate; lap the ends of the bottom so as to
obviate the necessity of using a separate gullet piece; then stuff the
pad and place the housing on the socket piece; tuft the ends of the
bottom socket and housing as shown by the cross lines on the lower ends
of 1 and 3; then place the pad top in position, and secure it by the
terrets and pad screws.
The side pieces are always cut straight and creased or stitched; if
trace bearers are used, the top ends are secured by the pad screws.
The housing is not a necessity with this pad, but it makes it more
ornamental, and is therefore preferred by most buyers.
Another style of pad which may be made up with or without pad plates
or stuffed pad, is made by cutting a housing piece from heavy patent
leather to the required shape, and covering it with soft collar
leather. If no plate is used, the back strap, which is perfectly
straight and about one and one quarter inches wide, is stitched to
the pad piece before the latter is covered; a chape is attached to
the center for the back strap ring, or a loop check hook may be used
instead; four rivets, with round heads, are used to strengthen the pad
and to give it an ornamental appearance.
A plain pad, which is used to a considerable extent in New-York upon
team harness, is made of two strips of harness leather; one, forming
the pad and sides, is cut two and a quarter inches wide and fifty-six
inches long, the points one and an eighth inches wide and ten inches
long; the layer is cut seventy-nine inches long and one and an eighth
inches wide; this is stitched to the pad twelve inches each side of
the center; the lower ends are placed even with the bottom ends of
the points, and stitched to them and three inches up on the sides,
the fulness thus secured to the layer makes it answer for a pad trace
bearer; small brass head rivets are placed in the center of the layer
the whole length between the points at intervals of about three inches.
The layer may be left loose in the center, forming a loop for the back
band to pass through, or a billet and ring may be attached instead. A
thin pad, made of two thicknesses of felt and fold or collar leather,
can be added if desired.
[Illustration: GEORGIA WAGON HARNESS.]
CHAPTER XIII.
MAKING HARNESS LOOPS.
Harness makers have three kinds of leather loops to select from—the
hand made, patent, and pressed. The first are undoubtedly the best, and
are used in preference to all others upon fine harness, some leading
manufacturers using no other kind. Some makers of medium grades also
use them to a considerable extent; but if well made they are too
expensive for common work, and when poorly constructed are inferior to
the other kinds.
Patent loops are made by being pressed up in hot dies, and are sold to
the trade in every needed size and in a variety of styles. Being nicely
finished and much cheaper than hand made loops, they have taken their
place on medium grades, and are also used to a great extent upon common
harness. Pressed loops are those made up in the workshop, and shaped
by means of dies and presses after they are stitched upon the straps.
The making of these and hand creased alone interest the workman, as the
patent loops are ready for use at the time of purchase.
Hand made loops possess several advantages over other kinds; they
are more durable, and, owing to the manner of making them, are less
uniform in style of creasing than those made by dies.
Care in the selection of stock is the first requisite in making
good loops, and the workman is referred to the description of the
various qualities and kinds given on page 36. Next in importance is
the tempering of the stock in water so as to bring it to a condition
where it can be easily worked and yet retain the full impression of
the creasing irons, which it will not do if either too wet or dry. The
general rule is to soak the leather until thoroughly moistened, then
remove it from the water, and allow it to become surface dry before
creasing. Some workmen prefer to moisten the leather but a little
before stitching on, and afterward temper it by the use of water and a
sponge; if, after being stitched on, the leather is found to be too dry
to work well, the fault can be remedied by the use of a moist sponge.
Owing, however, to the marked difference existing in the texture and
fibre of each separate side of leather, and to the various portions of
a single side, there can be no fixed rule given as to the preparation
of it, and the workman must be governed solely by experience. As has
been stated in another chapter, there are certain signs and indications
which furnish an exact guide to the workman, but they are of a nature
which can not be described, and it is his duty to pay strict attention
to the minor details if he would meet with success in the leading
features.
In order to secure a perfect-shaped loop, it is absolutely necessary
to allow sufficient fulness in the leather to permit the corners being
worked up full and square on the outside. To accomplish this, a fulness
of about ⅜ of an inch over and above the width of the loop stick
should be allowed to a 1¼-inch loop of ordinary thickness, increasing
or diminishing the same as the width or thickness is increased or
diminished. This extra leather must be worked up and outward to the
corners, so that when the loop is completed they are full and square,
otherwise they will be thin and weak at the very point where the
greatest strength is required.
Hand creased loops are commonly attached by stitching both sides
before creasing. Another method which is preferred by many workmen, as
it obviates much of the difficulty arising from the leather becoming
too dry before it can be creased, is the employment of a clamp in
connection with the loop stick. When this is used, an iron loop stick
is substituted for the wooden one. The back clamp iron is made the full
length of the loop stick, and ⅛ of an inch wider; at either end there
is an ear, which projects about 1 inch above the back iron, the ends
of which are bent over so as to cross the back iron at right angles;
holes are drilled through the ends directly over the center of the back
iron: these are threaded and provided with a thumb screw. When used,
the back iron is placed against the back of the strap, and the thumb
screws tightened against the loop stick, holding the latter and the
leather firmly together. In securing the loop, one side is stitched in
its place and the other properly inserted, after which the screws are
applied and the whole held in position until the loop is creased and
finished, after which it can be stitched fast.
If the ordinary loop stick is used, both sides must be stitched fast
before the stick is inserted, care being taken to allow the requisite
fulness. First work up the sides with a slicker, then rub down the top,
and continue to work both sides and top until the leather is pressed
firmly against the loop stick, always working toward the corners to
keep them full, then trim the ends perfectly true, and run the edge
creases with a hot creaser, after which trace off the pattern and
outline it with a fine tickler, then crease up with suitable tools:
these can be kept hot and clean by laying the ends upon a metallic
box heated by gas jets or an alcohol lamp, the handles resting upon a
wire support. The secret of success in creasing loops is to define all
corners and outlines correctly before the leather becomes too hard to
receive an impression easily, the working up of the pattern afterwards
being comparatively an easy matter. After the pattern is well worked
up, remove the loop stick and insert an iron one which has been heated
as hot as it can be without danger of burning, then color the leather
with iron and vinegar black, and work over the entire loop with warm
creasers and slickers until the leather is perfectly dry. By this
process the surface will receive a fine polish, and if the color is
good no further operation is needed. If a better black is required,
allow the loop to remain unmolested until thoroughly seasoned, and
apply a slight coat of hatter’s black, and, when dry, polish with a
silk rag. A loop which has been well worked will not be improved by the
use of varnish of any kind. If the loop is properly made it will be
solid and entirely free from grain cracks, the corners full and sharp,
the ornament well raised and correctly defined. A soft loop is an
evidence of a lack of skill, or of carelessness, upon the part of the
workman, for if the leather is in proper condition and worked up as it
should be, it will become firm and hard.
Pressed loops are the cheapest, and when well made appear nearly as
well when new as the other styles. There has been a marked improvement
in the manner of making them within a few years, and it is difficult,
in some cases, to detect the difference between them and the patent
loops. The same care is necessary in regard to providing fulness in
the leather sufficient to produce square corners as is recommended in
the case of hand made loops. They are needled on, and by the exercise
of a little ingenuity the awl holes on the side last stitched may be
so placed as to be almost undiscernable when the loop is fully pressed
up. The machinery and appliances necessary for pressing up these loops
consist of a good screw press, a metallic box with open ends, the
sides being about 3 inches high on the inside, and the width for other
than pressing cheek loops 3 inches wide in the clear; for cheek loops
a box fully wide enough to admit the winker is necessary; in one side
of the box place two thumb screws about 1½ inches from the bottom, one
within 2 inches of each end; in addition small side plates are needed
to be placed between the sides of the box and the loop, also plates to
be placed upon the bottom for raising or lowering the loop according
to its thickness; iron loop sticks, and the top stamps or dies. In
pressing, the loop stick is placed in its proper position, the strap
laid in the box, and the side screws tightened up until the leather is
pressed firmly against the sides of the loop stick, after which the die
is placed in position and the screw pressure applied to the top. It is
necessary to screw the side plates well up or the heavy pressure on the
top will cause the loop to spread on the top edge. Two minutes under
the press is all that is necessary to secure a firm loop even with
cold irons. By the exercise of a little ingenuity in designing dies, a
variety of patterns may be produced and cheap harness relieved of the
sameness now so prevalent. With pressed as with other loops, much of
the success in their production depends upon the leather being properly
tempered. After the loop is seasoned, color it with vinegar and iron
black, and when dry rub with a woolen cloth, after which it may be
finished the same as hand made loops. By the use of a box of this kind,
together with dies, small loops may be made similar to the patent ones,
and of patterns to match the large ones.
CHAPTER XIV.
STITCHING HARNESS.
In stitching harness two objects are to be attained—strength and
ornamentation. The first is secured by the use of thread of the
required size to suit the work to be done, making it up properly,
employing an awl that is neither too large nor too small, and drawing
the work well together. The second, by laying the stitches in an
artistic manner so that, when the work is finished, the lines of the
pattern are well maintained and the stitches of a uniform length and
laid true.
The first point to be considered is the selection of the linen thread
or silk, and the proper manner of making up the strand. Thread as now
sold in the market is designated by numbers; the sizes used by harness
makers are Nos. 0, 10, 3, 12, and 5, the latter being the finest used;
Nos. 6 and 19 are of the same size, but of different colors, 5 being
black, 6 white, and 19 yellow. These sizes should be used in such a
manner as to secure the greatest strength. The rule adopted is to grade
the thread according to the number of stitches to be employed. No. 0,
which is the coarsest, should be made up with four strands, and be
used where the stitches number eight or under to the inch; No. 10 is
a little lighter than No. 0, and is used in the lightest work; where
the stitching is not more than ten nor less than eight to the inch,
three strands are used. No. 3 is also used where the stitching ranges
from eight to ten to the inch, it being finer than either 10 or 0; four
strands are required for all ordinary work; for ten to sixteen to the
inch No. 12 is used, four strands being required. When the stitching
is as fine as eighteen to the inch the same number is used, but only
three strands; for all work finer than eighteen stitches No. 5 is the
only thread used; this is made up with three or four strands, according
to the character of the work to be done. These numbers represent the
ball thread; skein thread, however, varies but little in size with
corresponding numbers, but, owing to its being smoother, it appears
finer. For all heavy work the ball thread answers equally as well as
the skein; but in making up, the thread, while being twisted, should be
well rubbed with the awl handle in order to remove the irregularities.
Where the work to be done is fine and first-class in every respect, use
the skein thread. White thread is preferred, by harness makers who have
tested its merit, on heavy stitching, owing to its possessing greater
strength than the colored.
Having selected the requisite number of thread, the next thing is to
break off the strands, wax and twist them up; unless this is well
done the work will prove a failure. In running off each strand, it
should be examined to prevent any hard, irregular spot being twisted
up in the thread; in most cases the little lumps which are found are
loose and can be removed without injuring the thread; where this can
not be done, break it off and start anew. For stitching all articles
like traces or other long straps, long threads are desirable in order
to avoid starting with a new thread in the body of the work. Ten to
eleven feet, however, is as great a length as can be used to advantage,
and even this is liable to become weakened by the constant wear before
being used up. In making a thread, untwist and pull apart the strand at
the end, throw the center over a hook, and untwist and pull apart for
the first strand; repeat this operation until the required number of
strands are obtained. Untwisting before breaking the thread is a matter
of much more importance than is generally supposed. If carefully done,
the fibres are separated but not broken, and a smooth, regular, tapered
end can be obtained; but if broken off, the end will be irregular and
cause annoyance in threading the needles or attaching the bristles.
There is much difference of opinion as to the manner of waxing; some
claim that no wax should be used until the strands are well twisted
together, then they should be rubbed until the thread is well filled,
after which it should be rubbed with a cloth to remove all surplus
wax. Others claim that the principal part of the waxing should be
done before twisting, and that the only benefit derived from using wax
on the surface is to preserve the thread from injury by the friction
occasioned by drawing it through the holes in the leather. A careful
examination of the thread after having been used in stitching, would
seem to give support to the latter method of making up, as it is found,
upon cutting apart, that the amount of wax left on the surface is so
small as to preclude the idea of its being any advantage either as to
strength or resistance to the action of water, while strands which
had been well waxed before twisting retained all but the surface wax.
Fine threads may be made up according to the first plan, but all heavy
threads should be well waxed before twisting.
After the strands are all broken off, rub them well by giving one turn
around the awl handle and rubbing it back and forth, then apply the
wax, and twist up moderately firm. A thread may be injured by twisting
too firmly as well as by leaving it loose. In the first instance it
will not take the wax well and wears away rapidly; in the second, the
strands are likely to open and show after the stitch is laid. The
workman must therefore depend upon his own judgment as to the proper
amount of twist to be given. The best is the ordinary shoemaker’s black
wax, which is made of equal parts of pitch and tallow, and is a good
wax for general use; but this is too hard for winter, when a larger
percentage of tallow is required, making the proportions one pound
of tallow to three quarters of a pound of pitch. Various degrees of
hardness may be obtained by changing the proportions. This, however,
will not answer for white or light-colored thread. A good wax for this
purpose can be made of refined pitch and tallow, the proportions to be
governed by the degree of hardness desired. Ordinary yellow and white
wax are also used for light thread, but they are not as good as that
made of pitch.
Stitching, to appear well, must be regular, each stitch being full,
defined, and of equal length. The use of the prick wheel assists
materially toward producing the last result, but unless the workman
handles his awl correctly irregularities will occur. Tastes differ as
to the best position for the stitches. There was a time when straight
stitching was ignored by all leading manufacturers on account of its
resemblance to machine work, but the improvements in the latter soon
made it possible to imitate any hand stitch, and the straight stitch
has once more become popular. The custom now practiced by leading
manufacturers is to lay all heavy stitches ten or less to the inch at
a moderate angle, using a diamond-shaped awl; to secure uniformity the
awl is held in a position which brings a face of the angle on a line
parallel with the top of the jaw of the stitching-horse; to render this
result certain, a portion of the handle is flattened to correspond
with the angle on the awl. If the stitching is sixteen or less to the
inch, the angle is reduced, but the same precaution is taken to secure
regularity. All stitches where there are more than sixteen to the inch,
are laid straight.
The manner of drawing up the stitches has much to do with their
uniformity: drawing harder on one thread than on the other will produce
irregularity. A common fault with stitchers is to tighten the thread
with one motion as soon as it becomes short enough for them to do so;
this is a serious fault, as it is impossible to lay the stitches even.
No matter what the length of the thread, the tightening up should
always be a distinct motion. If the stitches are to be flat, the force
applied to both threads should be equal; but if a full stitch is
desired on the face side, the thread bearing against the under side
should be drawn the tightest; care must be taken not to draw upon this
thread enough to draw out the channeling. Stitchers are apt to draw the
thread in the awl hand the tightest, and it requires some practice to
overcome this difficulty.
When performing a piece of work where the stitches are equally exposed
from both sides, it is necessary to change the position of the thread
on the side opposite the awl hand, or the work will be irregular, and
it will be an easy matter to determine which is the right side. To do
this work properly, enter the needles, and when that on the left side
is drawn nearly out, bring the loose thread forward, and throw it over
the needle, and tighten up in the usual manner. If care is taken to
throw the thread over, the work will appear nearly as well upon the
reverse as upon the right side.
The points to be observed, therefore, are: to drive the awl through at
right angles with the face of the leather, holding it so that it will
always enter the leather in the same position; to draw the threads
carefully, so that each stitch is set in at a uniform depth, and the
fulness retained on the outside. When the work is well fitted up, it
will not require much power to set the stitches correctly. Around
buckles, when the laps have not been previously worked together, it
will require more force to draw the straps together; but under no
circumstance should the stitches be buried into the leather, as this
has a tendency to weaken rather than strengthen the work.
CHAPTER XV.
MAKING ROUND REINS.
The very general use of round reins and their effect upon the
appearance of the harness render it necessary that the most approved
manner of making up be thoroughly understood, and entitle this branch
of harness making to a separate notice. In preparing the following
instructions, the grade of round russet reins known as No. 4 has been
selected as the one embracing the various manipulations more thoroughly
than any other, covering as it does all the essential points.
Good stock is indispensable to success, and care should be taken
to secure smooth, fine-grained, and well tanned rein leather, the
different qualities of which are clearly described in the chapter on
“Russet Leather,” page 33. Cut the leather seven eighths of an inch
wide, and of the full length of the side; soak it in clean water for a
few minutes, and remove a thin shaving from the flesh side; then lay it
out straight upon the board, grain side down, moisten slightly with a
sponge and clean water, and shave down to the required thickness; slick
down nicely while the leather is damp, and measure off five inches from
one end for the billet and stop, and five feet six inches from this
point for the round, with an additional five and a quarter inches
for the handpart lap. Measure off on the rein seven eighths or three
quarters of an inch, or whatever size may be necessary, for the billet;
lay the rein out on the board with the grain side up, secure it firmly
with awls, and with a channeling tool, held firmly in the hand, channel
the five feet six inches which are to be rounded; trim each edge with
an edge tool, as by so doing considerable work, that would otherwise
have to be done with the spokeshave, can be saved and a better job
produced. Cut the width of the billet—which is five inches—on the edge
of the rein, edge it with a small edge tool, stain and rub the edges
until a good polish is produced, then with a seven-eighth inch buckle
punch make the hole for the buckle about three inches from the end, and
with a round knife trim down nearly to a feather edge; turn the rein
about, and stamp with a die, or mark off to a suitable pattern—four
waves running to a point is a good one—stain the edges, and rub them
well, then with a wide edge tool trim them slanting, so as to leave
a raise in the center. Both sides being finished as directed, dampen
the leather with a moist sponge, and with a raising block raise the
handpart end lightly; if raised too much, rub down with a clean piece
of paper, then with a double creaser sink the creases well, and prick
off with a No. 14 prick-wheel, after which rub the edges smooth.
The rein is now ready for the stop, which is made of two pieces of
clean stock dampened and shaved down to the required thickness, then
pasted together and allowed to dry; when perfectly dry, cut out with a
die, or to a pattern, an egg-shaped or other design; stitch the stop,
trim off the back edge with an edge tool, dampen the edges lightly,
apply the stain, and rub until a good smooth surface and polish are
produced. Heat a narrow iron creaser quite warm over a gas or other
light, crease the edges, and rub them with a rag until they are smooth.
Trim the ends of the stops down thin.
Next prepare the billet, which is thirteen and one half inches long, by
dampening it well and rubbing it down solid with a slicker; cut out the
end of the billet with a half round punch, and with a small edge tool
take the edge off each side to one half the length, then stain, and rub
smooth with a cloth. Mark off one and one half inches to go into the
round of the rein, and five inches more for the stop; crease up the
billet and punch with a No. 6 round punch, dampen the end that enters
the rein so that it will work easily, trim down to a feather edge, and
then pound down to the mark, so that the stitcher can more easily pull
the round up tight; this being done, tack the billet to the rein and it
is ready to be stitched.
The billet, as has been stated, is marked off five inches, three inches
of which are for the half-inch loops before and behind the buckle; this
part is channeled the width of the box loop, and a space of one half
inch each way from this loop is stitched with seven or eight stitches,
drawn tight; these make the rein firmer, and give it a better finish.
After the billet is stitched, the rein is ready for filling up. To do
this, first see that the filling is thoroughly wet, so that it can be
shaved down evenly, and, when the rein is closed up, can be pounded
down to a true and smooth round. In filling up, care should be taken
not to dampen the rein too much, for if too wet the leather can not be
trimmed off smoothly with a spokeshave, and when dried out it becomes
hard and brittle; also, when filling off, the channel, instead of being
close and smooth, will raise and become uneven. The proper course is
to dampen it with a sponge, and pound down immediately. To do this,
take a large awl, run it through one of the holes in the billet, fasten
the rein to the board, and, with a shoemaker’s hammer, pound one edge
down to the end of the rein; then turn the rein over, commence at the
same point as before, and pound the other side down; in this way the
rein is evenly prepared to receive the filling. In placing the latter
in position, always put in the longest pieces at the commencement, and
use the short pieces down at the neck of the rein. At the end, where
the handpart is sewed in, put in an end piece, or sew the handpart into
the round; either will do, but the former is the better plan. After the
rein is closed, if a little dry in places, dampen it slightly with a
sponge, then trim off with a large-sized edge tool, and also trim off
the filling close to the rein; then pound down on a board iron made
for this purpose, having a half round groove in which to place the
rein. The use of this groove materially lessens the labor and helps
to secure a good round. Some workmen use a flat stone or board iron
without a groove, but it is poor policy to do so, as it has a tendency
to flatten the leather where it bears upon the stone.
The rein is now ready to be rounded up, which is done by pulling it
through the rounding machine three or four times, after which trim off
the edges with a sharp spokeshave as round and evenly as possible;
dampen the rein slightly with a moist sponge, pull it through the
rounding machine three or four times more, and then with a hand rounder
rub up and down all over the round, the object being to touch all the
parts that the machine has failed to reach, thereby making them smooth.
Then, with a sponge and a solution of oxalic acid, clean off the rein
and hang it up to dry. When dry, or nearly so, apply a small quantity
of a stain made of anotta and saffron in the proportion of one pint
of the former to a half gill of the latter. After dampening the reins,
block up the loops, trim nicely from the end of the rein to the box
loop, stain, and rub down smoothly; dampen the round slightly with the
stain, and rub briskly until a nice, smooth polish appears. In order to
preserve the color on the rein, dissolve shellac in alcohol, and with a
clean sponge apply it to every part of the rein; this, in addition to
preserving the color, produces a good lustre on the leather.
Rein ends can be made up in a variety of styles, but the general
directions for manufacture are the same. Their use is to prevent the
Martingale ring coming in contact with the buckle, or bit ring, where
it will catch fast, and at the same time provide a neat ornament
for the end of the rein. In cutting the harness maker should aim to
make them not less than one quarter of an inch wider than the inside
diameter of the Martingale ring. Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4 show four
patterns, all but fig. 4 being made up as previously directed. This is
made without buckles, but a small piece of steel is bent at the point
where the rein joins to the ornament, which is stitched in between the
straps. This steel hook is sometimes used with other styles of rein
ends.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
CHAPTER XVI.
COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES.
In manufacturing bridles, the harness maker has an excellent
opportunity to exercise taste in designing and embellishing, for in no
part of the harness is there so much opportunity given to introduce new
ideas without interfering with the proper shape of the article; then,
too, they are the most ornate part of the harness, and there is less
liability to overdo in decoration. The winkers may be made in a variety
of styles, stitched plain or in fancy patterns; the cheeks can be
finished up in different ways, while the crowns, face pieces, fronts,
gag runners, nose and chin pieces are all susceptible of a variety of
changes in form or finish. There is no portion of a coach harness more
difficult to make, and for that reason the bridle maker holds a high
position in the business.
The general details for making are given in connection with the
instructions for making harness in a previous chapter. Attaching the
winkers to the cheeks must be done in the best manner to prevent them
from “hinging;” always clean off the gum where the patent leather
enters the cheek pieces, so that the paste may adhere, and skive off to
secure a smooth job.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
The most popular patterns for coach winkers are the slightly ovaled
end and the full oval. For light buggy and road harness, square or
square with round corners are preferred. Coupé, team, and heavy express
winkers are similar to those used for coaches, while for wagon, cart,
and other cheap harness the square pattern is preferred. The various
plates in this book will give the reader a good idea of the popular
form for winkers, though other styles are also used to a considerable
extent. The illustrations of bridles in connection with this chapter
show some of the distinctive patterns in detail. Fig. 1 represents the
English coach bridle with the oval winker. This is the popular style
for all coach and heavy coupé harness, though no exclusive pattern of
winkers, cheek loops, or crown piece layers is followed. It is known as
the bradoon swivel, the peculiarity being the attaching of the check
rein to a billet stitched to the crown piece, passing it through a
swivel on the bradoon bit, thence up to the gag runner. The cuttings
are:
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown piece 28 1¾
Ends, split 6½ ¾
Layer 9 ¾
Gag runners 12 ¾
Front 28 1⅛
Nose and chin piece 33 1⅛
Cheeks 29 ¾
Made up between buckles 8
Bradoon rein 26 1
Rounded 20
Center rein 60 ¾
Throat latch 27 ¾
Crown billets for bradoon rein 13 ¾
Face piece 12
Billet ¾
Winker strap 13 1½
Billet 5 ¾
Split 7
[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
The narrow loops and center bar buckles give this bridle a showy
appearance, but the regular buckles and pipe cheek loops are the most
popular. With this and all other bridles where the face piece is used,
a thin piece of steel should be attached to the under side to keep it
in position.
Fig. 2 represents another style of bradoon bridle, in which the bradoon
bit is attached to a round cheek piece, and the swivel is dispensed
with. It is claimed that a bridle of this kind causes the horse less
pain, while being equally as effective as a check. The lengths for
cutting are the same as those for Fig. 1, with the exception of the
round cheeks, which must be ten inches long between the buckles.
[Illustration: FIG. 5.]
[Illustration: FIG. 6.]
[Illustration: FIG. 7.]
[Illustration: FIG. 8.]
Fig. 3 represents a third style of bradoon bridle, the extra cheek
being flat.
Fig. 4 is also a bradoon bridle, but differs from the preceding ones in
the manner of attaching the gag runner.
Fig. 5 represents a plainer style of bridle, suited to the lighter
grades of coach and road harness.
Fig. 6 is designed for light double harness; one of the plainest kinds
in use.
Fig. 7 represents a very neat bridle for single or light double harness.
Fig. 8, a plain bridle with a half Kemble-Jackson check.
Fig. 9, a heavy bridle for a team harness; the tugs on the ends of the
cheeks are cut of patent leather, and may be ornamented with monograms
or initial letters.
Fig. 10 is designed for a team bridle, but is made up without winkers;
the cheeks may be made as represented, or rounded. The latter appear
much the lightest. The face piece may be flat or round. The most
popular style of finishing is to round the ends below the face
ornament, leaving the upper part flat.
Fig. 11 represents a plain team harness bridle without winkers, the
cheeks made up with patent leather ornaments and without buckles; the
crown, cheeks, and throat latch billets are cut of one piece; the
ornaments are stitched to the cheeks at the front piece, and held in
position by two loops; or the patent leather ornaments may be lined and
stitched, leaving the ends open to admit the cheek pieces; a cross face
piece can be used in place of the nose piece, if preferred. The crown
and cheeks are cut thirty-eight inches long. The measurements for the
other straps are the same as those used for regular team bridles.
[Illustration: FIG. 9.]
[Illustration: FIG. 10.]
Fig. 12 represents a German Court bridle.
Crown pieces are made up in a variety of styles, a number of which
are given on page 195. A and B have the straight layer, but different
styles of cheeks; C has no layer, the gag runner being attached to the
throat latch billet; D has a folded crown piece with the layer, throat
latch, and cheek billets cut in one, the layer being cut with an extra
billet for the gag runner ring; E has the plain double waved layer; F
has a short layer for the half Kemble-Jackson check, the gag runner
being attached to the check. The same style of layer is used for the
full Kemble-Jackson check. In both instances the opening for the check
is made by a wedge-shaped piece stitched between the layer and crown
piece. G shows the crown, with a short layer for securing the head
terret, and an extra billet for the gag runner; H shows a plain strap
layer, with an oval loop and a ring for a gag runner. This is used
for carrying the gag rein well up and close to the cheek. I shows the
common fold crown, with a plain waved layer.
[Illustration: FIG. 11.]
[Illustration: FIG. 12.]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration:]
CHAPTER XVII
RIDING BRIDLES.
Riding bridles, though forming a very important portion of the
harness maker’s stock, are much less varied in character than most
other leading articles, because display is not an important matter
except in a limited number of cases. The military and ladies’ dress
bridles are the only ones ornamented to any extent; even in these the
principal strapping is a duplicate of the less pretentious article. The
ornamenting consists of cross face or other similar decorations.
Bridles take their name, except in isolated cases, from the style of
bit used, the headstall of a Pelham, bradoon, port, or snaffle being of
the same pattern, made up with or without billets for the bit rings.
Figs. 1, 2, and 3 represent a bradoon, or loose ring, a double rein
port, and a Pelham, the strapping, with the exception of the reins,
being the same in all. The regular lengths and widths for cutting with
and without billets are:
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown piece 24 1⅜
Split 7
Cheeks 13 ¾
Without billets 15 ¾
Billets 8 ¾
Throat latch, two buckles 12 ⅝
Front 22 ¾
Reins 52 ¾
Billets 8 ¾
Without billets 56 ¾
[Illustration: FIG. 1. Bradoon.]
[Illustration: FIG. 2. Double Rein Post.]
[Illustration: FIG. 3. Pelham.]
Fig. 4 is a plain snaffle bridle, the lengths for cutting being the
same as those previously noticed; Fig. 5 is a single round cheek
bridle, in which but two pieces are used for the cheeks and crown; the
throat latch is cut in one piece and is rounded the whole length, the
ends being joined by a leather tassel. The cuttings are:
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Cheek, buckle side 20 ¾
billet side 24 ¾
rounded 12
Billets 9 ¾
Throat latch 39 ¾
Reins 54 ¾
rounded 18
Billets 9 ¾
Front 24 ¾
rounded 11½
Curb straps 22 ½
[Illustration: FIG. 4. Plain Snaffle.]
[Illustration: FIG. 5. Round Check.]
Fig. 6 is a double cheek bridle with a plain port and a light bradoon
bit. The cheeks and crown piece for each bit are cut in one piece. The
cuttings are:
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Port cheeks and crown 34 ¾
rounded 12
Bradoon cheeks and crown 36 ¾
rounded 12
Billets 8 ¾
Fig. 7 represents another style of double cheek bridle, the cuttings
for which are the same as for Fig. 5, both cheeks being of the same
length; the nose strap, which may be used or not, is cut three quarters
of an inch wide and twenty-eight inches long, and rounded fifteen
inches.
Fig. 8 represents a double cheek bridle, in which the cheek pieces on
each side are cut in one; the crown piece for the cheek is also cut as
one; it is doubled and buckled on the crown, and is provided with two
small slide loops; the throat latch and crown are cut in one as are
also the nose and chin pieces. The cuttings are:
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Cheeks 33 ¾
rounded 24
Billets 8 ¾
Crown piece, made up as hame strap 24 ¾
Throat latch 39 ⅝
Fig. 9 represents a style of double cheek and bit bridle made up with
long cheeks and without billets. The cuttings are:
[Illustration: FIG. 6. Double Check, Port, and Bradoon.]
[Illustration: FIG. 8. Double Check, Round.]
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Cheeks, port, buckle side 20 ¾
billet side 24 ¾
Bradoon, bit, buckle side 22 ⅝
billet side 26 ⅝
Throat latch 22 ⅝
Front, made up 13 ½
Bradoon reins 90 ¾
Port reins 96 ¾
Billets 8 ¾
The peculiarity of these bridles is the manner in which the port cheeks
and throat latches are cut and made up, and the use of separate straps
for the crown and cheeks for the bradoon bits. The English Weymouth
bridle is not as popular in this country as the port and bradoon. It
has double cheeks, one of which is buckled into the ring on the top of
the bit check, the other is cut longer and is buckled into the rein
ring at the end of the mouth piece, the bit used being the Pelham.
[Illustration: FIG. 7.]
[Illustration: FIG. 9.]
Three kinds of leather are used for bridles—black harness, russet,
and buff. Light weights should be used in all cases, and the cheek
straps and reins cut from the firmest part of the side. English russet
has long been a favorite brand of leather, but the better grades of
American are equal to it in every respect. Buff leather is used to a
considerable extent for flat fancy bridles, to be used with saddles
having seat and knee pads made of buckskin. This leather, being soft,
is not creased, and is stitched no more than is absolutely necessary
to secure the various straps. Cheap bridles are sometimes made up with
plated rosettes, but leather is used on all finer grades.
CHAPTER XVIII.
HALTERS.
Halters constitute a very important part of the harness maker’s stock.
The varieties are numerous; though apparently unnecessary, they are
required to suit the preferences of different sections of the country,
and render it obligatory on harness makers to be prepared at all times
to meet the demands of their customers. The many illustrations in
this chapter will enable the manufacturer to present to his customers
correct representations to select from, while the lengths for cutting
and the directions for making up will be found of great value in the
work shop.
Fig. 1. represents the United States Government regulation halter, the
principal merit of which is its strength and simplicity; it is easy
to adjust, and can not be slipped off by the horse rubbing his head
against posts or other objects. The lengths for cutting are:
Inches.
Crown piece 26
Chape 8
Cheeks 14
Throat piece 22
Chin piece, if double 30
single 18
Nose piece 18
Bolt piece 18
made up 6
Hitching strap, or stem 84
Billet 10
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
The regulation width is 1¼ inches; for general use, however, 1 inch is
wide enough.
Fig. 2 is the Spanish halter; it bears a general resemblance to Fig.
1, from which it was modeled, but it is put together in a different
manner; has a front and a cockeye attached to the bolt piece; all the
straps but the front are cut long, and are doubled and stitched. The
lengths for cutting are:
Inches.
Crown piece 42
Buckle chape 8
Throat piece 28
Buckle chape 21
Cheek pieces 17
Nose piece 34
Chin piece 36
Bolt piece 10
Front 19
All the straps but the front are 1¼ inches wide; the latter is 1 inch
wide; =D= rings are used for the upper, and square loops for the lower,
ends of the cheeks.
[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
Fig. 3 is a heavy French stall halter of ornamental design and finish;
it is used as a bridle halter as well. The cutting lengths are:
Inches.
Crown piece 24
End split 5
Cheek pieces 11
Nose piece 16
Chin piece 17
Chape 6
Throat latch 22
Front 18
Lining to nose piece 24
The crown piece is 2¼ inches wide, the cheeks 1¼ inches, and all other
straps 1 inch; the lining, which is of patent leather, is 2¼ inches
wide in the center.
Fig. 4 is a heavy cleaning, or groom, halter. The nose piece is made
with a flat iron top, having three rings attached, these being used to
secure the horse’s head in any desired position. The nose piece plate
is lined with heavy leather, and padded. The lengths for cutting are:
Inches.
Crown piece 22
Split 6
Cheeks 15
Throat latch 22
Front 27
Nose piece 13
Pad roll 11
Chin billet 11
Chape 6
[Illustration: FIG. 6.]
[Illustration: FIG. 5.]
The crown piece is cut 1½ inches, the throat latch ⅝ of an inch, all
other straps 1 inch wide.
Fig. 5 represents a training halter of a neat and tasty design. All the
principal straps are cut of bridle or buff leather, or of heavy twilled
white web; the chapes of black harness leather for light colored
leather halters, and bridle or buff leather for web halters. The chapes
are all of an ornamental pattern; those for securing the ends of the
strapping to the rings are cut double, those holding the throat strap
rings have a small billet by which the rings are secured. The lengths
for cutting are:
Inches.
Long check piece 23
Short ” ” 17
Throat piece 18
Nose piece 12
Chin piece 10
Buckle chape 8
Bolt piece, made up 6½
The cheeks and bolt pieces are 1 inch wide, nose and chin pieces ⅞ of
an inch wide.
[Illustration: FIG. 8.]
[Illustration: FIG. 7.]
Fig. 6 is another style of training halter, which, like the preceding
one, is made of buff, russet, or black leather, or of linen web. When
the latter is used, the chapes should be of russet leather; metallic
rosettes having a stout center pin and four loops on the under side are
used to connect the various parts, thus dispensing with buckles except
on the throat latch chape; if these rosettes are not accessible, square
loops may be used for the lower ends of the cheeks, and a buckle be
attached to the short cheek piece, using fancy or plain leather for
rosettes. The lengths for cutting are:
Inches.
Long cheek, including crown piece 27
Short cheek 15
Front 19
Chin piece 18
Nose piece 18
Throat latch 17
Billet 9
If web and leather layers are used, deduct from these lengths 3 inches
for each lap. The cheeks are cut 1¼ inches, the nose, front, and chin 1
inch, and the throat latch ⅞ of an inch wide.
[Illustration: FIG. 10.]
[Illustration: FIG. 9.]
Fig. 7 represents a bitting halter, one of the most desirable styles in
use. It closely resembles the straight cheek style of years past, the
only difference being in the manner of attaching the throat piece, and
in the use of two short cheeks. This may be made of buff, russet, or
black leather. The buckles used on the cheeks are extra heavy, the side
bar being made to answer as a substitute for loops to which the throat
piece is attached. The lengths for cutting are:
Inches.
Crown piece 32
Cheeks 10
Chin, double 24
Buckle chape 8
Nose 18
Throat piece 22
Loop piece 15
All the straps with the exception of the throat piece are cut 1¼ inches
wide; this is cut 1 inch.
Fig. 8 closely resembles Fig. 7, the difference being in the manner
of attaching the throat strap, and the use of but one buckle on the
cheeks. The cuttings are the same, with the exception of the cheek
pieces, which are cut:
Inches.
Long cheek 25
Short cheek 16
The loops used for securing the throat piece are of metal or leather,
and are provided with a short screw, by which they are held in position.
[Illustration: FIG. 12.]
[Illustration: FIG. 11.]
Fig. 9 represents a strong stable halter, of different construction
than any previously noticed. The cheeks, crowns, and throat latch are
cut so as to obviate the use of the usual buckles or rings in the cheek
pieces. The billet to the stem and the bolt, or loop piece, are also in
one piece. The lengths for cutting are:
Inches.
Long cheek, including throat latch 52
Short cheek, including billet to throat latch 29
Front, double 22
Nose, double 23
Chin, double 23
Billet to stem 18
Fig. 10 represents another peculiar style, commonly known as the Yankee
halter. It is designed for a slip halter, and is easily made. The
lengths for cutting are:
Inches.
Head piece 50
Nose piece 28
Braces 12
Hitching strap 84
All the straps are cut of uniform width, either 1 or 1¼ inches. Attach
the braces 9 inches from the ring on the head piece.
Fig. 11 represents a double cheek halter, designed to be used for
training purposes. The lengths for cuttings are:
Inches.
Crown 20
Buckle chape 8
Cheeks 22
Billets 9
Extra crown piece 22
Nose piece 18
Chin piece, double 24
Front 22
Throat latch 22
The crown piece is cut 1 inch wide; all other straps, ¾ of an inch wide.
Fig. 12 represents another style of four ring halter, the buckles
being in the cheek pieces; the rings may be covered with a rosette, if
desired. The lengths for cutting are:
Inches.
Crown 17
Cheeks 14
Cheek billets 7
Nose piece 18
Chin, double 30
Throat piece 26
Bolt piece 5½
The cheeks, crown, and bolt piece are cut 1¼ inches wide; the other
straps, 1 inch.
Fig. 13 is also designed for a training halter. The lengths for cutting
are:
Inches.
Long cheek and crown 32
Short cheek 15
Throat latch and crown in one 42
Nose piece, double 24
Chin piece, double 23
Loop piece 8
[Illustration: FIG. 13.]
[Illustration: FIG. 14.]
[Illustration: FIG. 15.]
All the straps are 1 inch wide, excepting the front: this is ¾ of an
inch.
Fig. 14 represents a double cheek halter without buckles, except on
the top of the crown. The nose and cheeks are secured in position by a
layer which secures the rings; the throat latch is stitched to the back
cheek piece just below the face piece. The lengths for cutting are:
Inches.
Cheeks 21
Throat latch 20
Billet 6
Nose piece, double 23
Chin piece, double 25
Loop piece 8
The cheeks are cut ½ inch wide; other straps, 1 inch.
Fig. 15 represents a four ring halter with front, and buckles on the
cheeks. The lengths for cutting are:
Inches.
Cheeks 12
Billets 5½
Crown piece 18
Buckle chape 8
All other straps, as well as the widths, the same as in Fig. 1.
Fig. 16 represents a very convenient slip halter. The lengths for
cutting are:
Inches.
Crown piece 21
Throat and cheek pieces in one 38
Nose and chin piece in one 24
All the straps are cut 1 inch wide.
Fig. 17 represents a convenient style of team halter to be worn with
the bridle. The lengths for cutting are:
Inches.
Crown and throat latch in one 30
Nose and chin strap in one 26
Cheeks 10
Bolt piece 7
Cuttings for a common bridle or three ring halter:
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Cheek, including crown piece 34 1
Short 12 1
Front 24 1
Nose band 18 1
Chin, doubled 30 ⅞
Bolt piece 18 1
Throat latch 39 ¾
Stem 84 1
Billet 9 1
Bit strap 9 1
[Illustration: FIG. 17.]
[Illustration: FIG. 16.]
A web halter:
Length, Width,
inches. inches.
Crown 24 1¼
Cheeks 8 1¼
Chapes 5 1⅛
Front 12 1¼
Chapes 8 1⅛
Nose 13 1¼
Throat latch, leather 39 ¾
Chin piece, leather 30 ¾
Bolt piece 18 1
Yankee one ring halter:
Crown piece, nose and chin in one 84 1
Braces 12 1
To make this halter, cut for the buckle tongue, and bend down the
buckle lap; then measure off 12 inches, and bend down for ring; then
28 inches, and bend for nose band; then place the brace in the center
between the front of the nose band and center of the chin piece at the
ring; cross the strap through the ring, and bring the crown end up on
the off side: this will place the buckle on the near side. Set the
crown piece at an angle so as to take the upper end of the braces. This
makes a convenient halter, which easily adjusts itself to the head of
any horse.
CHAPTER XIX.
HORSE BOOTS.
The artist who pictured a horse on the track with his legs encased in
boots, etc., from the bottom of the hoof up to the body, was not so
far from the truth as many persons would suppose, for there is no part
of the limb, from the knee down, for which boots are not made. The
illustrations in this chapter represent the general styles, though not
all the varieties in the market. There are many patented boots, some of
them possessing merit, a description of which would be of no practical
use to the harness maker. There are several classes of boots, such as
the knee, shin, ankle, quarter, and combination, each of which has its
distinctive name.
The illustrations in this chapter have an advantage over those found
elsewhere, in that nearly all are drawn in exact proportions; and
the descriptions are such that a harness maker may readily furnish a
customer with any desired pattern. Making horse boots is not a simple
operation: success depends upon their being so constructed that they
will retain their position without being strapped so tight as to
interfere with the freest movement of the horse’s leg. To accomplish
this, the leather used for shields must be worked up firm and the
securing straps placed where they will draw in direct lines. When
fullness is to be given to the shields, the best plan is to cut out a
V and stitch the edges together; they may, however, be stamped up with
dies. For convenience, each class will be described separately.
Fig. 1 represents one of the best styles of knee boot in use; it is
made of heavy bridle leather, cut in two pieces, as shown by A and B;
the former is worked up nearly flat, except that portion below D, where
it is shaped to fit to B, which is worked up full in the center; a
gore is taken out at C, and the edges joined to secure the shape. The
securing strap, D, is of medium weight bridle leather, and is stitched
to the shield before the lining is put in. The lining, which is of
buckskin, is turned in all around, so that the edge is placed between
the two pieces, and stitched down all around; a very little wool or
hair is placed between the two, and the center is secured by stitching
at the highest point in the shield B. The securing strap is also lined
with buckskin and stuffed with felt; the billet, which is twenty inches
long and one half inch wide, is stitched to the securing strap. The
buckle chape is stitched to a strong loop at the other end of the main
strap; the two small loops hold the billet in position, it being passed
around the boot before it is buckled; the drawing is one quarter size.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
Fig. 2 is a plain, heavy knee boot. This is cut from one piece of
leather; that portion above the securing strap is flat, the lower part
has a half inch raise in the center; the lining is of buckskin, wool
or hair being used for padding. The securing strap is cut of good,
firm leather, and lined with buckskin, padded with felt. The billet is
cut one half inch wide and fourteen inches long. There are five small
loops, each one inch long, placed as shown on the main strap. The
drawing is one quarter size.
Fig. 3 represents a peculiar shaped but desirable knee boot. It is cut
from one piece of harness or bridle leather; the cap piece is gored
in two places, to produce the requisite fullness; it is lined with
buckskin and padded with a single thickness of felt; the lining is
cut large and the edge turned in so as to form a roll all around; two
heavy pads are attached to the under side as bearings; one is shown
by the line X, the other is placed directly under the buckle; the
center-pad is nearly one inch thick, the one under the buckle is about
three quarters of an inch thick; both are made of felt placed under the
buckskin. This boot when made up is nine inches long. The proportions
in the drawing are based upon that measurement.
Fig. 4 differs but little in shape from Fig. 3, but is made up plainer.
The proportions are the same.
[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
[Illustration: FIG. 4. FIG. 5.]
Figs. 6 and 7 represent two patterns of knee boots of an entirely
different model from the above. They are also much lighter. The body
of Fig. 6 is made of enameled leather, lined throughout with buckskin;
the shield is of heavy harness leather struck up full, and slightly
padded with felt. The bearing pads, shown by the dotted lines, are
raised about three quarters of an inch; they are of felt, covered with
buckskin. The long or top billet is cut eight inches long and three
quarters of an inch wide; the bottom billet is cut six inches long and
three quarters of an inch wide; a small gore is cut at X; the edges are
drawn together and blind stitched before the lining is stitched in. The
drawing is one third the full size.
Fig. 7, though designed for the same purpose as Fig. 6, is much
lighter, and, being more open, is less likely to bind when on the knee.
The lower billet is so placed that it does not bear upon the cords
sufficiently to displace it when the knee is bent. It is made up in
the same manner and of similar material as Fig. 6. The upper or leg
strap is cut nineteen inches long and five eighths of an inch wide; the
lower billet is cut ten inches long and one half inch wide. The other
proportions, as shown, are one third the full size.
Fig. 5 represents a knee pad or breaking boot; the body is made of
heavy felt; the leg strap is stitched to the felt and lined with
buckskin; the knee safe is made of several thicknesses of bridle
leather, worked up full in the center.
[Illustration: FIG. 6.]
[Illustration: FIG. 7.]
Combination boots are made in a great variety of styles, there being
at least fifty different patterns in use. The principal portion of the
shield is designed expressly to protect the shin; to this is attached
a cap piece for covering the knee or ankle. The styles illustrated
comprise the regular lines, and, with the slight variations necessary
to secure a good fit, are all that are needed.
Fig. 8 represents a shin and ankle boot. The body is made of heavy
felt, the shield of harness leather, worked up full at the ankle
end; the latter is stitched to the body with a single row around the
edge and a few stitches at each end. The shaded spaces on each side
represent strips of leather; the blank space A, strips of elastic web;
these are attached to the body by the stitching shown on the strips
nearest the shield; the remaining portion of the webs and the straps to
which the buckle chapes and billets are attached are left loose, the
portion of the body under them acting as a safe; by the use of these
elastic strips the boot is freed from the rigidity so often noticeable,
and the horse is relieved from any undue pressure. The shield when made
up is eight inches long; the reduced size of the drawing is based upon
that measurement.
Another style of shin and ankle boot is shown by Fig. 9, which may
also be used as a shin and knee boot. The body is of heavy felt, bound
on the top and bottom edges with thin leather, and lined throughout
with buckskin; the shield is padded with hair. The dimensions of this
boot are: body, nine inches wide and six and one half inches deep; the
billets are four inches, and the buckle chapes three inches, long. The
shield is reduced in the same proportions as the body.
[Illustration: FIG. 8.]
[Illustration: FIG. 9.]
A light cord and knee boot is shown by Fig. 10. The body is made of
black enameled leather, lined with buckskin, double stitched. The
shield is of heavy harness leather, worked up full and padded with
hair, the buckskin lining extending the full length of the shield. The
billets are cut three eighths of an inch wide and seven inches long,
the buckle chapes the same width and one and one quarter inches long;
the proportions are one sixth the full size.
Fig. 11 illustrates a knee and cord boot of another pattern. The body
is cut of medium weight harness leather, and bound with light enameled
leather; the leg strap is made of strips of black enameled leather,
stitched together on the edges and through the center, and stuffed with
hair; it is attached to the body by two thicknesses of black enameled
leather; the shield is of heavy leather, padded with hair. The billets
on the body are five inches long and one half inch wide; the billet on
the leg strap is five and one half inches long and one half inch wide.
The drawing is one sixth actual size.
[Illustration: FIG. 10.]
[Illustration: FIG. 11.]
[Illustration: FIG. 12.]
Fig. 12 represents a combined shin, ankle, and cord boot. The body, B,
is of heavy felt, bound with buckskin; the shield, A, of heavy harness
leather, worked up full at the lower end; D, a piece of heavy leather,
lined with buckskin, stuffed with hair so as to make a cushion about
one half inch thick; C, two pieces of elastic web, the outside piece
being cut a little wider than the other; the web is secured in position
by the stitching which is used to attach the shield A and piece D to
the body and lining; the billets are attached at the shield, and pass
through small loops near the outer edge of the body; E represents the
cord piece, made of heavy leather, lined with buckskin at the lower
end, an inside layer being attached at the top of the cap and extending
up to the top, where there are two holes, as shown in E, through which
a round leather lacer passes, and by which the top ends are joined.
When the cord piece is used, the thin piece is placed between the two
pieces of web, C, and the top, secured by the lacer. The drawing is one
fourth the actual size.
Two other styles of combination boots are shown by Figs. 13 and 14, an
ankle and wrist boot. Fig. 13, the body, is of heavy blue kersey, bound
with light enameled leather; the shield is of heavy harness leather;
the ankle portion is worked up full and hard; owing to the thickness
of the material used in the body, no stuffing is used. The wrist strap
is of elastic web; it passes between the shield and body, and is held
in position by the stitching. The billets for the top are cut five and
one half inches long and one half inch wide; the kersey body is cut
nine and one half inches wide across the top and eight inches long; the
shield is three and three quarter inches in diameter; all other parts
are drawn to the same scale.
[Illustration: FIG. 14.]
[Illustration: FIG. 13.]
Fig. 14 represents a combined shin, ankle, and wrist boot, made up of
the same materials and in the same manner as Fig. 13. It is cut two
inches longer than the latter, otherwise the proportions are the same;
the billets are cut five inches long and one half inch wide. The wrist
web is seven eighths of an inch wide.
Fig. 15 shows a design of shin and ankle boot intended as a protection
to the hind legs. The body is made of black enameled leather, lined
throughout with buckskin. The shin shield has but little fullness,
and is padded on the under side with hair placed between the enameled
leather and the buckskin, the padded section being quilted to hold the
hair in position. The body to the ankle portion is also of enameled
leather, lined in like manner as the shin body; the shield is of
harness leather, worked up full and hard. The set of this piece depends
much upon the position of the billets and buckle chape; these are shown
in their proper position. The body of the shin boot is eight and three
quarter inches across the top and ten and three quarter inches across
the bottom; the shield is seven and three quarter inches long; the
ankle shield is two and three quarter inches in diameter, all other
proportions being relatively the same. The ankle billet is cut eight
inches long and five eighth inches wide, about one half the length
being rounded and covered with buckskin.
[Illustration: FIG. 15.]
A shin, ankle, and speedy cut boot is shown by Fig. 16, which, like
the preceding boot, is designed for the hind leg, the pattern being
one of the best in use; the speedy cut portion, C, is made up separate
from the shin boot, and is held in position by the lower billet of the
latter passing through a long loop on the top end. The body, B, is of
heavy kersey; the shield, of harness leather, worked up slightly in the
leg part and full at the ankle; the under side of the shield is padded
with hair; the pastern piece, C, is of black enameled leather, lined
with buckskin; the shield, D, of harness leather, slightly rounded up;
the billet attached to the pastern piece is covered for about one half
its length with buckskin. The two upper boot billets are five inches
long and five eighths of an inch wide; the lower billet is cut nine
inches long; the pastern billet is cut eight inches long, one half inch
wide. The illustration is drawn to one quarter the full size.
[Illustration: FIG. 16.]
Fig. 17 represents an improved ankle boot, lighter than most other
kinds, and the location of the shield is such as to give greater
protection to the ankle than that of the ordinary boot. The body is
cut of harness leather; the shield, which is two and one half inches
in diameter, is made of harness leather, worked up full and hard; a
gore is taken out of the body, the edges are closed up smooth under the
concave of the shield. Two bearing cushions are used, one under the
buckle chape, the other as shown by the dotted lines near the billet;
these are of felt, covered with buckskin; the one under the chape is
two and one quarter inches; the other, one and one half inches long
and seven eighths of an inch wide; the boot is lined throughout with
thin patent leather. The full measurements are: length on the top line,
eight and one half inches; width of square ends, one inch; depth at
the widest point, four inches. The center of the shield is six and one
quarter inches from the top corner at the billet end and five inches at
the buckle end; the billet is six inches long and one half inch wide.
Fig. 18 represents a plain, cheap ankle boot; the body is of heavy
kersey, single or double; the shield is of harness leather, worked up
full and hard at the ankle; the shield is six inches long and three and
one half inches wide at the widest point and two inches wide at the
top; the proportions of the body are based upon this measurement. The
billets are five and one half inches long and one half inch wide; they,
as well as the buckle chapes, are stitched to the body two and one half
inches back of the edges.
[Illustration: FIG. 17.]
[Illustration: FIG. 18.]
A more expensive boot is shown by Fig. 19. The shield is of heavy
russet leather struck up full and hard; the body is of heavy kersey,
bound with buckskin; the leg strap is of russet leather; it is nine
inches long and one inch wide; it, as well as the shield, is secured
to the body by a single row of stitching. The various proportions are:
shield, four and one half inches long, three and one half inches wide
at the broadest point and two inches at the leg strap; the bearing pad,
A, is one and one half inches long and one half inch thick; the billet
is cut six inches long and one half inch wide.
Fig. 20 represents the hard leather cup ankle boot. The body is cut of
heavy harness leather; a large gore is cut out of the top side, the
edges of which are afterwards joined and blind stitched on the outside;
the edges of the gore must be cut with a slight curve, in order to
secure a regular circular fullness; the layer is cut of heavy leather,
worked up full and stitched to the body; the buckle chape is cut three
and one half inches long, and the billet eleven inches long. Two
bearing cushions are used; one is shown by C, the outlines of the other
by the dotted line near the top of the shield. These are of buckskin,
stuffed with hair. The inside of the boot is skived off smooth all
around the lower edge, care being taken to avoid all irregularities.
The small cut A represents a side view of this boot. The large drawing
is one half actual size.
Heel boots constitute a distinct class, of which there is a great
variety; but those shown by the illustrations are all that are required
for general use. Fig. 21 represents a well fitting boot of this class;
the body is cut of medium weight harness leather; the layer is cut
of heavy stock, worked up hard and stiffened by the layer under the
shield; three gores are cut out of the top of the body, and the edges
are joined and secured by blind stitches; a small section is gashed to
form a fringe. The body is cut nine and one half inches long on the top
line, four and one half inches deep in the center, and three inches at
the ends; the shield is six inches long and two and one half inches
deep; the billets are three inches long and one and one half inches
wide.
[Illustration: FIG. 19.]
[Illustration: FIG. 20.]
[Illustration]
A plain, serviceable quarter boot is shown by Fig. 22; it is made of a
single piece of heavy harness leather, lined with felt; the top edge
is cut as shown to provide a yielding surface and prevent injury to
the horse; six gores are taken out of the bottom; the edges are joined
to produce the required shape; the felt lining extends to the top and
within one half inch of the bottom, and is secured as shown by the
lines of stitching. Buckles are not used, the ends being fastened by
means of loops attached to one, and holes cut through the other to
admit their passing through; they are then locked by a heavy billet
as shown. An ordinary boot is fourteen inches long on the top line of
stitches, the line being described by a twelve inch radius; the lower
line is contracted by the goring to twenty inches; the depth when made
up is four inches.
Fig. 23 represents a toe boot for the hind foot; this is made up of
heavy harness leather; the top section, indicated by the dotted line,
is lined with buckskin and padded. The full length of the body is
twelve inches; depth, five and one half inches; the bottom line has a
sweep of three inches; the buckle and roller loop chape is cut three
and one half inches long.
[Illustration: FIG. 21.]
[Illustration: FIG. 22.]
[Illustration: FIG. 23.]
[Illustration: FIG. 24.]
Another boot designed for the same purpose is shown by Fig. 24; this
is cut of heavy leather, the top being lined with buckskin to make a
cushion one inch deep.
Toe weight boots are designed for an entirely different purpose than
those previously noticed, but they properly belong to this department.
Fig. 25 represents a boot with two weights, A; these are of lead,
covered with leather. The body of the boot is of heavy leather, cut
twenty-one and three quarter inches long on the lower line, and three
and one eighth inches deep in the center. The billet is fourteen inches
long and five eighths of an inch wide; the buckle chape is nine and one
half inches long; it is attached to the lower edge of the body, and
passes through a slot on the opposite side; the billet is attached in
like manner and passed through a similar slot.
Another toe weight is shown by Figs. 26 and 27; the body, A, is of
leather, having two slots as shown by X; the weight, B, is of lead,
secured by an adjustable hook shown by Fig. 27; this is secured by a
single strap which passes through the slots in the body and hook. A
combined weight and quarter boot is shown by Fig. 28. The body is cut
of one piece, of heavy leather, the quarter form being produced by
gores; the quarter is lined with heavy felt and stiffened by layers;
the toe weight and securing hook are secured by a piece of leather
stitched to the body; the securing strap is stitched to the toe, and
passes through a roller loop back to the buckle.
[Illustration: FIG. 25.]
[Illustration: FIG. 26.]
[Illustration: FIG. 27.]
[Illustration: FIG. 28.]
CHAPTER XX.
HARNESS MOUNTINGS.
In describing harness mountings, it is not the intention of the author
to draw comparisons as to the respective merits of any class or style.
The sole aim is to give a correct description of the various kinds,
their peculiarities of manufacture, and such other information as will
enable the reader to judge as to the adaptability of any particular
style for a specific use.
In order that they may be fully explained, they will be divided into
five classes, as follows: Plated, whether silver, gold, or nickel; pure
metal; covered, whether leather or composition; japanned, and tinned.
Plated mountings are divided into two classes—close plate, those in
which the fine metal is rolled out in thin sheets and applied as a
covering to the iron or composition forming the body of the article,
and caused to adhere by means of solder and heat; electro plate, those
in which the fine metal is dissolved and formed into a liquid solution,
into which the articles to be coated are suspended, and by the
application of an electric current the fine metal is evenly deposited
upon the surface of the iron or composition.
The silver used for close plating is rolled out in sheets of various
thicknesses, and designated by numbers, the lightest being No. 1;
following this are three grades, designated as No. 1½ light, fair, and
stout, the former weighing three pennyweights to a foot in length by
6½ inches in width; the second weighs 3½ pennyweights, while the third
weighs 4½ pennyweights. Next to these are three grades, designated
as No. 2 light, fair, and stout. The first weighs 5½, the second 6½,
and the third 7½ pennyweights to the foot. Following these are three
grades, designated as No. 2½ light, fair, and stout. The first weighs
8½, the second 9½, and the third 10½ pennyweights to the foot. The
second is also designated as “Knob;” and the third, “Heavy Knob.” The
latter is seldom used on harness mountings, as it can not be worked to
an advantage except by the hard solder process, which is too expensive
for harness work. “Knob” silver is the heaviest used for the regular
trade.
It will be seen that there are eight grades of silver below the “Knob,”
which explains in part why there is so great a difference in the prices
of plated goods of any one pattern; for, based upon the government
standard, a foot of No. 1 silver, 6½ inches wide, would be worth 13.6
cents, while a foot of “Knob” silver would be 64.6; but the actual
difference in the prices of the rolled plate is even greater than this.
Then, too, the cost of labor is much greater for putting on heavy than
light silver. The former is so thin that but little labor is required
to solder it to the article to be plated, while the extra thickness of
the latter necessitates extra skill and time.
Buyers who are not experts are at a loss how to determine the quality
of the plate. This can be done by examining the surface closely; the
thinner the silver the less dense and perfect the surface. No. 1 will
show minute holes in great number, while the surface of “Knob” will
be perfect to the naked eye. It is not so easy to distinguish between
two succeeding grades, but by a little care a person who handles these
goods can learn to select each distinct grade. Close plate can be
easily distinguished from the electro plate. All that is required is to
breathe upon the polished surface, and if it is close plate the seam
where the metal is joined will be seen at a glance, it showing a bluish
streak; the heavier the plate the more distinct the seam.
Electro plate is less durable than close plate; but when deposited in
sufficient quantity and hand burnished, it will wear well; the surface,
however, is less perfect than the former, as the thin coating of silver
is deposited evenly over the entire surface, and an irregularity in
the casting will show itself after the work is burnished; in fact,
blemishes are more easily detected after being plated and burnished
than before, as the minute depressions can not be reached by the
burnisher, and they therefore show dead, white spots.
The peculiar white lustre of silver distinguishes it from other
metals, but there are other tests by which the uninitiated may satisfy
themselves as to the quality. The simplest is to prepare a cold
saturated solution of bichromate of potassa in nitric acid. A little
of this may be applied to the surface (which must be perfectly clean)
by means of a glass rod, and washed off immediately with cold water.
If the article tested is pure silver, a blood-red colored mark will
appear; if the article is German silver, the liquid appears brown, but
the mark shows no shade of red. On other white metals there are various
actions, but in none but the silver does the red mark appear.
Persons unacquainted with the nature of silver condemn an article as
impure because of its tarnishing. This is erroneous, as pure silver
assumes a dingy reddish brown, and loses its lustre more readily than
some of the composition white metals.
Gold plating is always done by the electro process, the other processes
for applying it to coarser metal not being adapted to harness
mountings. It is the most showy but frailest plating in use; the
thin deposit is naturally soft, and but little friction is required
to remove it. If hand burnished, the gold is made more dense than
otherwise; but even this is not as durable as other plating. There is
no such an article of manufacture as close plate gold, nor can there
be unless a solder can be produced which will melt under a lower heat
than gold, and as there is no such solder at this time, all claims of
a gold covered article being close plate are fraudulent.
The introduction of nickel as a covering for mountings has produced
a marked change in some lines of goods, supplanting as it has in a
great measure burnishing on bits, stirrups, spurs, etc., and being
largely used as a plate for all kinds of harness mountings. The nickel
is deposited by the electro process, but, as it is a hard metal, it
wears well. The color is a bluish white, more closely resembling finely
polished steel than any thing else. It does not tarnish easily, and
will not rust. The only objection to it aside from the color is that
it will sometimes peel—that is, the nickel will become detached from
the iron or composition core; but this is due either to some defect in
cleaning the surface to be plated or in the manner of depositing the
nickel. Improvements are being made in the process of depositing the
nickel, and there is every reason to believe that the objectionable
features will be overcome, and with the reduction in price it will take
the place of tinned and other low priced white metal goods.
The next class are those goods made of some composition metal, such
as brass, oroide, aluminum, and German silver. Brass has long been a
favorite mounting, though in this country it has been deemed better
suited to express and other heavy mountings than for coach or light
carriage harness; but fashion has once more brought it into use on
coach harness, and it is likely, for a time at least, to assume the
position held by gold for some years past. The advantages of brass are
that it can be cast to any form, retains its malleability, is quite
dense, and readily receives a brilliant polish; but its proneness to
tarnish is an objection which tends to overcome its good qualities.
The color is regulated by the proportions of the metals forming the
compound, and skill in the moulder in turning it off just when it has
been raised to the proper heat.
Oroide, like brass, is a yellow metal, and when first introduced was
recommended as a substitute for gold; when polished it has a golden
color, but it tarnishes too easily to be used without being plated. It,
however, furnishes an excellent base for gilding, and for that reason
is largely used. It can be cast as easily as brass, and is equally
malleable; it can also be used for plating iron articles which are to
be gilded, but if not plated or gilded it possesses but few advantages
over ordinary brass.
Aluminum, or, as it is also called, alumina bronze, is the finest
yellow metal produced; its color closely resembles that of gold, while
it is susceptible of as high a polish as the latter; it is tough,
though next to gold in lightness, but its high price prevents its being
used for any but the most expensive mountings.
German silver is used to a considerable extent for mountings which are
to be plated with silver. For this purpose it is the best white metal
known; other kinds have been introduced, but they have not proven
suitable for mountings. The objection to all composition castings is
their lack of rigidity, and they should never be used for check rein
hooks of any kind; these should be of iron, and plated to correspond
with the terrets, etc.
Composition possesses one great advantage over iron which should be
understood by harness makers and consumers. It does not rust, and
can therefore be used in localities where iron can not, owing to the
proneness of the latter to rust—particularly on the sea coast, where
the sea air acts very injuriously on plated mountings.
Covered mountings consist of two kinds, those in which the metal is
covered with leather, and, secondly, those having a metal core covered
with a plastic composition. Leather covered is one of the oldest styles
of mounting in use, but it was many years before it reached the state
of perfection so noticeable at the present time. The durability, as
well as the appearance of these mountings, depends upon the character
of the leather used and the manner of putting it on. Calfskin, or very
fine grained kip, are the only kinds of leather suited to covering
mountings, but many of the cheaper grades are covered with sheepskin or
thin split leather. Those conversant with working leather can readily
understand the advantage arising from the use of thin, light stock,
the work of putting on being reduced at least one half thereby. The
inferior character of the work shows itself in a short time in the
seams ripping or the leather cracking. Thick, firm leather requires
more care in putting on and stitching, but it finishes much finer, and
is more durable than the cheaper work.
The manner of covering is very simple: the leather is first cut to
the required shape; it is then soaked in water until it is soft and
pliable, after which paste is applied, and the leather is worked around
the metal by means of slicking sticks, and the edges joined by means of
pinchers, or by placing the article in dies and pressing them together
and allowing them to remain on until the leather is dry, after which
the seam is stitched by hand or machine, the welt trued off, and the
leather blacked and finished.
The liability of the seam ripping has caused manufacturers to resort to
different methods of putting on the leather and securing it; one method
is the use of two seams on the edges in place of the one center seam so
long in use; the advantage claimed for this method is the protection
given to one side of the seam by the metal lining, and at the same time
the article produced is more ornamental.
Another plan is to dispense with the seam entirely on the outside;
this is done by joining the edges of the leather on the inside of
the ring, these being protected by the lining; imitations of the
double and single seams are produced by casting them on the iron and
working the leather down smooth to the outlines of the metal. The
most recent improvement in making leather covered mountings is to draw
the leather over the metal ring, which has previously been channeled,
to allow for the full thickness of the leather, the rim on the edge
forming a perfect protection to the leather; this style is known as
the “Centennial,” an illustration of which will be found on page 263.
Small leather covered harness buckles are more generally used than any
others, the greater portion of these being imported from England, where
they are produced at much lower prices than in America.
The composition covered mountings are hard rubber and celluloid. The
first was patented in 1866, by Ralph Dunham, of Connecticut, as a
covering for harness buckles and rings; in 1867 Andrew Albright, of
Newark, N. J., obtained a patent for covering harness and carriage
mountings with rubber, these two patents being the first taken
out—though early in the history of hard rubber, experiments were made
in covering harness mountings, but the idea was abandoned; but since
the two patents above mentioned were taken out great improvements have
been made, and rubber mountings are an acknowledged success.
The manufacture of these mountings, though not directly connected
with the manufacture of harness, is interesting, and a description
of the process will serve to give the reader a general idea of their
peculiarities and merits. Every article is made with a metal core of
about the same weight as that used for leather covered work. This
core, or casting, is first cleaned up and made perfectly true by being
struck up in a die; if any portion is to be plated, this is done, and
the article is then taken to the rubber room to be covered. The rubber
used is of the best Para gum, mixed in the proportion of two parts of
gum to one part of pulverized sulphur; it is furnished in long sheets,
varying from one to four lines French measure in thickness, and is
kept rolled up in enameled cloth. Sheets of the rubber are laid out on
a table and cut to such shapes as are needed for each article to be
covered. The various pieces are then laid out on a piece of enameled
cloth and saturated with benzine, covered up, and allowed to remain
in this condition overnight, by which time the rubber becomes sticky;
it is then wrapped around the metal body, care being taken to exclude
air and to firmly weld the edges; after covering, the plated parts,
if there be any, are covered with tin foil, when they are ready to be
vulcanized; to do this the goods are either placed in moulds, buried
in soapstone, or hung in an open pan. The vulcanator is a large tube
made of boiler iron, and sufficiently strong to sustain a very heavy
pressure of steam. After the goods are in the vulcanator, the door
is closed and packed tight and the steam let on; if the goods are in
pans and are to be cured by “open steam,” they are subjected to a
heat of 20 degrees for one hour; 10 additional degrees are gradually
added each hour, until 65 degrees are reached (where the goods are
in soapstone, the heat is raised to 65 degrees at the start). After
having been subjected to this heat for the proper length of time, the
goods are removed, and all small articles, such as buckles, rings,
etc., are thrown into a tumbling barrel and tumbled with charcoal and
water until the rough edges are removed; they are then placed into a
steam box and heated; each article is then placed into steel dies and
pressed by powerful hydraulic presses; this sets the rubber, forms a
true finish, and sets a row of imitation stitches; the smaller articles
are again tumbled for a short time, when they are ready to be finished.
Large articles have to be trued up by hand, then cleaned on the ash
wheel, from which they are taken to the buff wheels; the first is used
with rotten stone, the second is dry; having passed through these, the
articles have a fine polish and a jet black color, after which they
are lined and plated, and made ready for the market. Up to the present
time these goods have never been made anywhere but in this country.
They have a fine finish and are very durable, and will, without doubt,
eventually become popular wherever harness is used.
Celluloid mountings are of recent origin, and are made only in this
country. The composition is a chemical compound which closely resembles
amber; it can be colored any desirable shade, and does not fade through
use. These mountings, like those of rubber, have a metal core coated
with the composition. The process of manufacture is interesting. The
castings are first trued up; they are then taken to the stuffer to be
coated; they are then placed into moulds, or “stuffing dies.” These are
made of metal. The recess for the casting is provided with a number
of small iron pins, upon which the castings rest. The arrangement of
the moulds is precisely the same as that for casting metal. After the
castings are placed into position, the moulds are closed up and placed
into a recess at the foot of the stuffing cylinder. The latter is
nearly filled with celluloid, and heated up to 190 degrees. After the
die is secured in its place, a plunger, which is worked by hydraulic
pressure, descends upon the hot gum and forces it into the dies in
sufficient quantities to completely fill the moulds and cover the
metal cores. The die is then removed, and in a few minutes emptied of
its contents, and again made ready for stuffing. After being stuffed,
the goods are removed to a drying room heated by steam, and allowed
to season. They are then taken to the hydraulic forming presses; the
mountings are put into highly polished steel dies, and submitted to a
fifty-ton pressure, which renders the material compact and produces
a finely finished surface, after which they are lined, plated, and
finished up ready for delivery.
Black is the predominating color, but a very handsome imitation of
russet, as well as a good flesh color, has also been produced. As there
is no difficulty in securing any color, the production of other shades
than those mentioned depends upon the demand.
Celluloid martingale rings are a new article of manufacture. These
closely resemble ivory in appearance, are much stronger, and are sold
at lower prices than the latter. They are made of solid gum, which,
after being colored, runs out into tubes of the required size. These
are cut up into rings and thoroughly seasoned, after which they are
taken to automatic lathes and turned up. They are then polished, and
packed ready for shipping.
Tinned mountings, or, as they are known by the trade, “XC plate,” are
among the cheapest lines of goods. The metal castings are thoroughly
cleaned, and then dipped into molten tin. The quality of the deposit
depends entirely upon the skill and care of the workman.
Japanned mountings are those covered with a coat of black varnish which
is solidified by heat. These are plain, and, if properly made, quite
durable. They are, however, so well known that no extended description
is necessary.
The various illustrations of mountings in this chapter represent the
popular styles now in the market, some of which are made by the general
trade, while others are patented either as designs or as new articles
of manufacture. The “Grant,” “Bismarck,” and “Arlington” are patented
as designs; the “Double Seam,” as a design and a new article of
manufacture. This was fully described in connection with other leather
covered mountings. The “Imperial” is patented as a design. This is
made of composition metal, either white or yellow, and lined with hard
rubber, the latter being turned up and finished off flush with the
outside, leaving a narrow black edge with a metallic band center. This
pattern is not lined, the wear coming direct upon the rubber, which,
owing to its hardness, will wear longer than metal linings. One pattern
of the ball wire mounting is also patented. The wire of this is covered
with rubber and finished perfectly plain, while the ball and base are
plated.
The “Centennial” is another patented mounting. This is made of metal
cast with a recess upon the outside of the band, into which leather
is worked while wet; the ends, firmly secured at the post, are an
imitation seam pricked in on both edges. The appearance of this is
exactly the reverse of the “Imperial.” The center is black, and the
lining, edges, and head are of metal.
The illustrations of post, pad, and bolt hooks and head terrets give a
general idea of these articles, though not representing all the styles.
All the popular patterns of terrets have hooks and fly terrets to
match; and in ordering, the harness maker or dealer can always procure
them in sets or by the package.
[Illustration: Imperial.]
[Illustration: Centennial.]
[Illustration: Grant.]
[Illustration: Ball Wire.]
[Illustration: Plain Wire.]
[Illustration: Bismarck.]
[Illustration: Arlington.]
[Illustration: Double Seam.]
[Illustration: Oval.]
[Illustration: Band.]
[Illustration: Band. Arlington.]
[Illustration: Oval. Ball Wire.]
[Illustration: Centennial. Grant.]
[Illustration: Wire Ball. Acorn.]
[Illustration: Band Fly Hook. Oval Fly Hook.]
[Illustration: Wire Ball. Plain Wire.]
[Illustration: Ball Wire, Fly. Oval Post Hook.]
[Illustration: Band C Hook. Oval C Hook.]
[Illustration: Oval Fly Bolt Hook. Band Post Hook.]
[Illustration: Wire. Oval Pad Hook.]
[Illustration: Band. Oval Wire.]
[Illustration: Flat Top. Scroll Duck Bill.]
[Illustration: Oval. Plain Duck Bill.]
CHAPTER XXI.
BUCKLES.
The great variety of harness buckles in the market enables the harness
manufacturer to procure those suited to every pattern of mounting. The
illustrations in this chapter represent patterns suited to general
use. In addition to these, buckles are made to match every style of
mounting. An extended description is not necessary. The “Sensible” is
one of the best in the market, owing to the form of the under side.
It does not bend the strap as much as other patterns; it can be used
with oval, “Grant,” and band mountings. The “Victoria” and “Vermont”
match well with the same patterns of mountings. The band, “Bonner,”
and “Square Philadelphia” are used with flat band patterns, the “West
End” and other wire buckles with wire and oval terrets. Trace and
collar buckles are made in as great variety as the smaller harness, the
patterns being similar, but the center bar is used but little except as
a trace buckle.
A buckle peculiar to this country—one in which the trace lies perfectly
flat and is easily adjusted—is known as the “wedge tongue.” This was
the invention of Mr. Coles. Improvements were made by various persons,
until at the present time there are several varieties operating much
the same as, and bearing a close resemblance to, the original. The
“Coles,” Fig. 1, represents the original after having been so modified
as to make it practical. The “Coles,” Fig. 2, represents the latest
improvement in the way of a spring, which prevents the wedge getting
out of place when the trace is not drawn up tight. The peculiarity of
this buckle is in the wedge. This is provided with a tongue or spur on
the under side, which sets into a hole in the trace and takes the place
of the ordinary tongue; when the trace is drawn up, the wedge bears
against the cross bar and holds the spur in position, and at the same
time produces a pressure which relieves the strap at the hole of much
of the strain which would otherwise be put upon it.
Fig. 3 shows the “Kinne.” This, when in position, bears a close
resemblance to the “Cole,” but it operates somewhat differently. The
cross bar is loose and the bearings upon the pier plate press against
it, producing the same result as the wedge.
Fig. 4 represents the “Kinne” without loops. This is used on single
harness. These buckles are very strong, and are made in all sizes from
1¼ to 2 inches.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
[Illustration: Sensible. Vermont.]
[Illustration: Victoria. Metropolitan.]
[Illustration: Philadelphia. Union.]
[Illustration: Square Philadelphia. Bonner.]
[Illustration: Crescent. Band.]
[Illustration: West End. Crown.]
[Illustration: Wire. Horseshoe.]
[Illustration: Square Roller. Barrel Roller.]
[Illustration: Covered Ring. Wire Bridle. Covered Bridle.]
[Illustration: Ribbon. Sensible.]
[Illustration: Light Band. Covered Roller.]
[Illustration: Band. Covered.]
[Illustration: Imperial. Wire.]
[Illustration: Band. Boston.]
[Illustration: Arlington. City.]
[Illustration: Band. Philadelphia.]
[Illustration: Boston. Oval.]
[Illustration: Square. Loop End.]
[Illustration: Congress. Manhattan.]
[Illustration: Perforated Loop. Sensible.]
CHAPTER XXII.
BITS AND BITTING HARNESS.
BRIDLE BITS.
The ingenuity of bit makers of all countries has been taxed to the
utmost to produce bits suited to all horses, and many are the harsh and
brutal devices introduced; but with the exception of the Mexican or
Texan bit, very few of the harsh kinds are now in use. For this reason
no attention will be paid to any but those suited to the general trade.
The illustrations show a good variety, but they all come under the
general classification of snaffle, ring, bradoon, or lever.
The snaffle is frequently defined as a bit having a jointed mouth; this
is incorrect, as the cheek piece alone decides the name, the mouth
pieces being designated as stiff, jointed, post, chain, leather, hinge,
etc. Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate two styles of snaffle. The first is the
regular pattern; the second, the “Dexter;” both are made up with stiff
as well as jointed mouths. The origin of the name is unknown; but when
a bit maker receives an order for a “snaffle-bit,” he furnishes one
with cheek pieces like that in Fig. 1, the ring and bars of which are
of one piece; if a “Dexter” snaffle is ordered, it is like Fig. 2, the
peculiarity of which is the shape of the mouth piece, it being large
at the cheek and small at the joint.
A ring bit is one having rings instead of rings and cheek pieces
combined. The portion, however, which is surrounded by the head on the
mouth piece is turned so as to give a straight bearing and provide two
shoulders, which prevents the ring slipping through the hole in the
heads of the mouth piece. The bradoon bit has a ring cheek, but the
wire is of uniform thickness, and the ring is loose in the ends of
the mouth piece. Lever, or gag, bits (as they are generally called)
are made up in a variety of ornamental patterns, with stiff or loose
cheeks. The “Hanoverian,” Fig. 3, is used more than any other pattern.
For coach or coupé harness the “Buxton” is the most popular. This has a
scroll cheek and a loose mouth, which slides up and down on a straight
section of the cheek.
Trotting snaffles are made in a variety of patterns, and as a rule with
half cheeks. The “Dan Mace” is one of this class; the small loop on
the cheek piece is used to secure a cross strap, thus connecting the
two cheeks in such a manner that they act together when either rein
is pulled. The “Ben Lane,” “Dexter,” and other half cheek bits are
also provided with the loop. The various other patterns shown need no
explanation.
Bits are made of wrought-iron throughout, wrought mouth and malleable
cheeks, or all malleable. The first are sometimes designated as steel
bits; but this is a mere pretence, as steel is seldom used in their
manufacture, fine iron being preferable. The wrought bit is the most
expensive, but it is the only reliable kind, and no horse possessing
any spirit should be driven with any other. Next to this is the
wrought mouth and malleable cheek; and lastly, the all malleable, a
bit which should never be used. Some are sufficiently strong, but the
unreliability of malleable iron should condemn it for bits of any kind.
A very convenient manner of numbering has been adopted by some bit
manufacturers, by which a buyer can tell at a glance just what the
article is. If a buyer orders a No. 1336, he would be furnished with
a first quality ring bit with a ⁶/₁₆ inch mouth piece, having two 1½
inch rings. Should the number be 1356, he would secure the same kind
of bit with three inch rings; for a loose ring bit the first and last
numbers would be the same, with 24 as the pattern number. Snaffles are
designated by 52, and half cheek of the regular pattern by 53, and
“Hanoverians” by 76. A first quality loose ring bit would be designated
by No. 1246, a snaffle by 1526, a half cheek snaffle by 1536, and a
“Hanoverian” by 1766, the first and last numbers being changed to
designate quality and size. When used first, the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4,
etc., represent the quality; the final numbers, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 give
the size of the mouth pieces in sixteenths of an inch; the addition of
the fraction ½ designates a jointed mouth.
[Illustration: FIG. 1. Snaffle.]
[Illustration: FIG. 3. Hanoverian.]
[Illustration: FIG. 6. Ben Lane.]
[Illustration: FIG. 2. Dexter.]
[Illustration: Half Check Dexter.]
[Illustration: FIG. 5. Dan Mace.]
[Illustration: Ring.]
[Illustration: Check Bradoon.]
Bits are finished in a variety of styles, as follows: “Polished,”
those which are not plated, but are burnished up in the best manner;
“nickel,” those plated with nickel; “all over silver-plated,” those in
which the cheeks and ends of the mouth piece are plated; “half silver
plated,” those having only the cheek pieces plated; “outside silver
plated,” those in which the outsides of the cheek pieces are plated.
Plating with other metals is designated in a similar manner.
BITTING HARNESS.
The two illustrations of bitting harness in this chapter represent the
most complicated, though undoubtedly the best for this purpose, which
are free to manufacturers in this country. There are several patented
devices, but a description or illustration would be of no general
value. Fig. 1 represents the plain wooden jockey, the saddle to which
is made of iron padded with felt and covered with collar leather; the
ends of the reins are of elastic web. The manner of attaching, style
of halter, crupper strap, etc., are all well delineated and require
no explanation. Fig. 2 represents an improved jockey of English
manufacture; the arms of this are of gutta percha and whalebone instead
of wood; the various straps are all provided with elastic ends, which,
it is claimed, produces the desired result in a more humane manner than
when the old style, as shown by Fig. 1, is used.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
Another style, bearing a close resemblance to Fig. 1, has steel springs
attached to the back of the arms at the lower ends, to which the reins
are attached; the wooden arms are provided with slots for the reins
to pass through before being secured to the steel springs. The plain
bitting harness, in which the cheeks, etc., are attached to a broad
surcingle, needs no description.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
CHAPTER XXIII.
REPAIRING HARNESS.
To repair harness well is quite as much of an art as to make up new
stock, and, owing to the gradual spread of the custom of sending
the harness to the shop instead of leaving the matter to stablemen
when repairs are needed, the proper performance of the work is, in a
business point of view, an absolute necessity. Repairing is something
more than securing a ripped stitch, restoring a buckle, or splicing
a strap; these the merest novice in the business can accomplish;
but to repair properly requires skill, judgment, and experience.
This is particularly the case at the present time, when new methods
and directions are found in every agricultural journal, and not
unfrequently in those devoted to mechanics, and which, from the nature
of the articles recommended, as well as from the crudeness of the
instructions, are calculated to mislead.
In repairing, two results are to be sought—one is the complete
restoration of strength and form; the other, renovation and softening
of the leather, so that in appearance and pliability it will be as
nearly as possible what it was when first made. To do this, unbuckle
and separate all patent and fancy colored from the plain leather
wherever it can be done without ripping; also from pads, gig saddles,
and such other parts as are lined with cloth or are stuffed; then
clean the straps. These, if gummed, should be scraped with a smooth
edged scraper, and then washed with tepid water and crown soap; if
the latter can not be had, use castile soap in its place (strong soap
should never be used, as the alkalies penetrate the leather and harden
it). Turpentine, benzine, etc., are often recommended for removing the
surface grease and accumulated dirt; but nothing will more effectually
destroy harness leather than these articles: they penetrate almost
instantly, and burn and harden the fibre, and if used to any extent,
the injury can not be corrected. Tepid water, soap, a scraper, and a
little labor will prove equally efficacious in removing all superfluous
substances, without leaving injurious effects.
After thoroughly cleaning the leather, make all needed repairs, black
up, and, with the exception of polishing, treat the leather the same as
though the harness were new; then with a stiff brush clean out whatever
dirt may be in and around the stitches, loops, buckles, etc., treating
both sides of the strap in the same manner. This brushing is often
omitted, but it is almost as important as the cleaning of the surface
of the leather, as the fine dirt is thus removed, and it does not
interfere in any way with the penetration of the oil or grease into
the pores of the leather or around the stitches.
The harness now being cleaned and repaired, it is ready for oiling
or greasing. There are two ways of doing this: the first, which is
applicable to leather which has become hard, lost its color, and needs
thorough renovation, is to apply a little vinegar black wherever the
leather appears red; then dampen each strap with a small quantity of
tepid water, applying it with a sponge, and, as soon as the surface
of the leather is dry, give it a coat of pure neat’s-foot oil (the
purer the oil the better); the oil penetrates the leather, the water
having opened the pores, and it is quickly absorbed. Some authorities
recommend castor oil in place of the neat’s-foot, but the latter
is undoubtedly the best, as it restores to the leather some of its
natural properties, and therefore better assimilates with the fibre.
Castor oil, however, is an excellent article, and is only inferior
to neat’s-foot or pure cod. It penetrates rapidly, softens well, and
at the same time retains a firm hold; it will also last as long as
neat’s-foot oil, and is free from gum, but, owing to its heavy body,
it fills up the pores and thus prevents the subsequent absorption of
tallow. The animal oil, on the other hand, opens the pores, softens the
fibre, and fits it to take up a much greater quantity of tallow, which
is, after all, the only real protection against the action of water.
The tallow should be warmed sufficiently to allow of its being spread
on with a brush, but it must not be hot. Apply it as soon as the oil
has dried in, and brush well in order to assist it to enter the pores.
Lay all the straps out straight, and, after coating them with tallow,
allow them to remain in that condition for several hours; then rub
them with a woolen cloth until all surplus grease is removed from the
surface, after which varnish black may be applied if desired; but the
latter is not absolutely necessary, excepting when the leather is much
worn and the color injured.
The second manner of applying grease is to slightly dampen the leather
after it has been thoroughly cleaned, and as soon as the surface
moisture is removed, apply a coat of warm tallow, and allow the straps
to remain coated with it until the moisture has died out, afterward
cleaning the tallow off as in the first case. This answers very well
for harness when the leather has not become hard but looks dry on the
surface. In the absence of grease, leather absorbs water very rapidly,
and unless the pores be well filled with the former, the latter will
soon obtain the mastery and convert the leather from a soft, pliant,
tough material to a hard, bony, and brittle one.
Tallow of itself will resist the action of water much longer than
neat’s-foot oil, but it does not impart the same softness to the fibre
as does the latter, while the oil, though it softens the leather, fails
to form much of a barrier against the entrance of water. Both articles
are therefore necessary in order to secure pliability and durability.
Other greases may be used, but in none are the original qualities of
the leather contained to the same extent as in those recommended.
When the leather presents a rusty appearance, but is not red, it should
be blacked with hatters’ black, or a more simple black made of 2 ounces
of the extract of logwood and ½ ounce of bichromate of potash pounded
fine and dissolved in 4 quarts of boiling rain or river water. This can
be bottled and kept on hand. It should be applied with a brush.
Harness when in use becomes soiled either by the action of the
atmosphere on the grease—the latter being drawn to the surface, where
it becomes impregnated with dust, and forms a dirty coating—or by the
impurities in the oil used in currying the leather. In the latter case,
in addition to the dirty grease, spots of gum of various sizes form on
the surface. These can only be removed by scraping, or by the use of an
ammoniated soap, made of oleic acid heated to a temperature of 100°,
into which ammonia (of 0.96 specific gravity) is stirred until the
smell of the latter ceases to disappear by action of the acid.
Patent leather can only be restored to its original polish by the use
of varnish, but it may be greatly improved by applying castor oil,
and, after it has been upon the leather an hour or more, removing the
surplus grease with a woolen cloth, and rubbing with a dry silk or
woolen rag until the polish is brought out. In every case remove all
the mountings possible without ripping the straps, and clean them
before replacing.
It requires some labor to thus clean, repair, and oil a harness, but
these directions, if well followed, will secure a first-class job, and
if the leather has not become bony and harsh from constant exposure, it
will be to all appearances as good as new.
For repairing or new work there is no blacking in the market that
answers the purpose better than that of Frank Miller & Co. It possesses
the necessary elements for softening and giving a fine finish to the
leather, and increasing its durability.
CHAPTER XXIV.
CARE OF HARNESS IN FACTORY AND STABLE.
The appearance and durability of harness to a great extent depends
upon the treatment received after leaving the hands of the workman;
yet a large percentage of manufacturers, as well as consumers, are
very careless and negligent in protecting their goods from injury by
the elements. Consumers, as a rule, are entirely unacquainted with
the peculiarities of the stock used, and they can not, therefore,
be expected to know how to guard it against various destructive
influences, but the harness maker can not plead ignorance. Leather as
received from the tanner does not possess the requisite qualifications
for harness. These the currier supplies by the addition of oil and
grease, together with the labor needed in preparing it, without which
it would lack the suppleness and durability so necessary in this kind
of stock. The preservation of the materials added by the currier,
therefore, becomes an absolute necessity in order to prevent premature
decay.
Moisture is the great destroyer; it absorbs the grease, hardens the
fibre, and renders the leather weak and brittle; it also causes the
metal in the mountings to rust, weakening them, and adds another enemy
to the leather. Grease only will resist the effects of moisture, and
every effort should be made to keep the leather well supplied with this
needed protector.
Manufacturers often overlook the importance of caring for the harness
in stock, and also of instructing their customers how to preserve
it when in use. With some the idea is maintained, that ignorance on
the part of the consumer, as regards the care of harness, accrues to
the benefit of the manufacturer. This is a serious mistake. The most
successful man is he who produces the most durable article, and it
should be part of a manufacturer’s duty to instruct the buyer how to
treat the article purchased. But all manufacturers do not understand
this secret of their business, and a portion of this chapter therefore
will be devoted to the care of stock in the warerooms.
A certain amount of made up stock must be displayed, but there is no
necessity for exposing more than one harness of a kind. Three months’
exposure in a wareroom will injure a harness as much as three months
of constant use, providing the user knows how to take care of it. In
all instances leather strapping, if exposed at all, should be in glass
cases impervious to dust and air; but no showcase can be made tight
enough to fully exclude these elements.
During a great part of the year the air at night is laden with
moisture, and, not unfrequently, during the spring and fall months the
atmosphere is humid and heavy; the moist air permeates every thing,
and by its action upon the leather and mountings rapidly absorbs the
life of the former and rusts or tarnishes the latter. The white mould
which is often observed upon the leather is caused by the grease being
drawn to the surface by moisture. After the surface is covered with
this mould, the absorption of the grease continues in all kinds of
weather until the cause is removed. The manufacturer therefore should
remove it as quickly as possible by brushing it, and afterwards rubbing
with a dry cloth, and finally with a greasy rag or “shammy;” then
restore the polish with an old silk handkerchief. If the mountings are
tarnished, clean them with a “shammy;” if this can not be done, remove
them clean with a little rotten stone. Gilt mountings should not be
exposed. Sample sets are convenient; but when these can not be had, the
gilt should be protected by wrapping it in tissue paper.
In hanging up the various parts of the harness, use forms, instead of
pegs or hooks, except for traces or reins, which should always be hung
out straight. Harness made up for stock should not be “gummed” and
hung in cases, but, after being finished by the workman, all the plain
leather should be covered with a thin coat of “daub” made of one part
of neat’s-foot oil and two parts of tallow—the latter being thoroughly
melted, after which the oil is poured in and the whole thoroughly
stirred until cold;—this will feed the leather and prevent injury. The
patent and fancy leather should be wrapped on soft paper, and every
piece, whether of patent or plain leather, laid out straight and smooth
in shallow drawers and covered with thick paper. Russet strapping of
all kinds should be kept in dark cases or drawers, as the sunlight is
sure to affect the color, the most exposed parts showing the greatest
change.
Harness makers who have made the care of harness a study have no
difficulty in filling orders at a short notice. Their course is to make
up traces, reins, turnbacks, docks, back-bands, and other straight
strapping, and lay them away in grease as before directed. When a
harness is ordered, all that is required is to make the other parts,
finish up the necessary straight straps, attach the mountings, and
put them together. In this way they are enabled to keep their workmen
employed at all times, and obviate the necessity of hiring extra hands
in the busy season. If the manufacturer delivers the harness to his
customer in good order, he does all he is legally bound to do; but his
moral obligation extends much farther—he should instruct the buyer how
to preserve it. The following hints may serve to assist him in this
direction:
The harness room should always be as far from the horses as the size
of the building will allow, as the gases arising from the stable are
very injurious to the leather and mountings; it should be provided with
forms for the bridles, pads, saddles, breechings, etc., and hooks for
reins, hames, and traces. If a separate room can not be had for this
purpose, closets should be provided.
Harness are often quite wet when taken from the horse. When this is
caused by rain, hang them up in some place where they can dry, and
before putting them in the storeroom rub them well with a “shammy,”
or wash-leather, then apply a little crown soap and rub with the
hands until the polish is restored; clean off the under side of the
straps as carefully as the outside. If wet by sweat, dry as quickly
as possible after taking them from the horse, as by the saline nature
of the perspiration the grease is rapidly absorbed and the leather
hardened; if the pads are wet, dry them thoroughly before putting them
in the storeroom. For oiling, during the first year, at least, crown
soap, applied as directed above, is all that is requisite for coach
or carriage harness, but for team and other heavy harness a stronger
grease is required. Cleaning and oiling should be done as often as once
a month on harness which is in daily use. If the leather is soft, wash
it with water applied with a “shammy,” then wring the latter nearly
dry, and rub the leather thoroughly, after which apply a good harness
oil. When each strap has been treated in this way, commence with the
one first washed, and remove all surplus grease with a rag, then rub
with an old piece of silk until the polish is restored. If the leather
is hard and dry, it will be necessary to wash the straps well and wet
them enough to open the pores; lay the straps out straight, and, when
surface dry apply a coat of neat’s-foot oil. When this has penetrated
the leather, apply warm tallow with a brush, and allow the straps to
remain coated with the tallow until the moisture has dried out of the
leather, then with a rag remove all the surplus tallow, and clean the
stitching with a stiff brush; then apply a coat of harness black.
Cleaning mountings requires care, as they do not need to be scoured.
Gold should never be rubbed with any thing harsher than the nap side of
canton flannel; electro silver plate should also be cleaned carefully,
as the plate is soft and the thin coating can be easily removed. Close
plate silver will bear more scouring, but it is seldom necessary to
do more than to rub it with a “shammy” darkened with tripoli and
lampblack. If they are very much tarnished, they should be removed from
the harness and washed in water and rubbed with tripoli. Brass is the
most difficult metal to keep clean, but when rubbed each day the labor
is materially decreased. In the chapter of recipes there are several
directions for cleaning and polishing brass, any of which can be used
to good advantage.
CHAPTER XXV.
LEATHER BLACKING—STAINS—VARNISHES AND POLISHES.
VINEGAR BLACK.
For giving color to the grain of leather there is no blacking that will
at all compare with the well known vinegar black. This may be made in
various ways. The simplest, and, without doubt, the best, is to procure
shavings from an iron turner and cover them with pure cider vinegar;
heat up and set aside for a week or two, then heat again and set in a
cool place for two weeks; pour off the vinegar, allow it to stand for
a few days, and draw off and cork up in bottles. This will keep for a
long time, and, while producing a deep black on leather, will not stain
the hands.
Another method is to cover iron scraps with sour beer, and allow them
to stand for a month or more; then strain off the beer and bottle as
before. A third method is to boil sulphate of iron in vinegar; mix some
brewers’ yeast with beer and allow it to stand for twenty-four hours,
then skim off the yeast and add the vinegar.
LOGWOOD BLACK.
Boil 1 pound of ground logwood, ½ pound of nut galls, and 1 ounce of
verdigris in 1 gallon of water for two hours, then remove from the
fire and allow it to stand until it is cold; strain off the liquor, and
it will be ready for use.
If to 1 pint of this mixture be added ¼ pound of white wax, ½ pound of
brown sugar, and ½ pound of bone black rubbed smooth in turpentine, and
the whole heated until thoroughly amalgamated, an excellent wax for
finishing edges will be produced.
Another logwood black is made by boiling a quantity of logwood bark in
double its bulk of rain water for two or three hours, then straining
off and adding ¼ of a pound of potash to 2 gallons of the liquor. This
makes a good grain as well as edge black.
HATTERS’ BLACK.
This black is unequaled for finishing. It is made by dissolving 1 pound
of extract of logwood, ½ ounce of bichromate of potash, and 1 ounce of
copperas in 1 gallon of water.
Another formula, differing from the first in the quantities, is to
dissolve 1 pound of extract of logwood, 2 ounces of copperas, and 1½
ounces of bichromate of potash in 1½ gallons of water.
BALL BLACK.
Melt together 8 ounces of beef suet, 2 ounces of neat’s-foot oil, 2
ounces of white wax, and 2 ounces of pulverized gum arabic; add 1 gill
of turpentine, and a sufficient quantity of bone black to give the
whole a good color; stir until thoroughly mixed, remove from the fire,
continue to stir until cold, then roll into balls. To apply, warm the
ball, rub it on the leather, and polish with a woolen cloth.
English ball blacking for harness is composed of 1 ounce of lard, 1
ounce of beeswax, 8 ounces of ivory black, 8 ounces of sugar, 4 ounces
of linseed oil, and 2 or 3 ounces of water.
Another kind is made of 2 ounces of hog’s lard, 8 ounces of best
neat’s-foot oil, 2 ounces of beeswax, 10 ounces of ivory black, and
8 ounces of water. Heat the whole to a boil, remove from the fire,
stir until sufficiently cool, and form into balls about two inches in
diameter.
A third description is made of 2 ounces each of ivory black, copperas,
and neat’s-foot oil, 4 ounces of brown sugar, 4 ounces of soft water,
and 1 ounce of gum tragacanth; boil until the water has evaporated,
stir until cold, then roll into balls or mould into cakes.
A fourth is made of ½ pound of beeswax, 4 ounces of ivory black, 2
ounces of Prussian blue, 2 ounces of spirits of turpentine, and 1 ounce
of copal varnish; melt the wax, stir in the other ingredients, and,
when cool, roll into balls.
Still another famous harness and saddlery blacking is made of ¼ of an
ounce of isinglass, ¼ of an ounce of indigo, 4 ounces of logwood, 2
ounces of softsoap, 4 ounces of glue, and 1 pint of vinegar; the whole
is warmed, mixed, strained, allowed to cool, and is then ready for use.
LIQUID BLACK.
Mix a quantity of bone black with equal parts of neat’s-foot oil and
brown sugar, in proportions to produce a thick paste; thin with vinegar
and sulphuric acid in proportions of three parts of the former to one
of the latter.
A second liquid black is made by mixing 3 ounces of ivory black with
1 tablespoonful of lemon acid, 2 ounces of brown sugar, and a small
quantity of vinegar, afterward adding 1 ounce each of sulphuric and
muriatic acid; mix the whole together, and add a sufficient quantity of
vinegar to make 1 pint in all.
LIEBIG’S BLACK.
Mix bone black in half its weight of molasses and one eighth its weight
of olive oil, to which add half its weight of hydrochloric acid and one
fourth its weight of strong sulphuric acid, with a sufficient quantity
of water to produce a thin paste.
PATENT HARNESS BLACK.
Heat together, over a slow fire, 2 ounces of white wax and 3 ounces of
turpentine; when the wax is dissolved add 1 ounce of ivory black and 1
dram of indigo, thoroughly pulverized and mixed; stir the mixture until
cold. Apply with a cloth, and polish with a shoe brush.
WATERPROOF PASTE BLACKING.
Melt together 4 ounces of black resin and 6 ounces of beeswax over a
slow fire; when thoroughly dissolved, add 1 ounce of lampblack and ¼
pound of finely powdered Prussian blue; stir the mixture well, and add
sufficient turpentine to make a thin paste. Apply with a cloth, and
polish with a brush.
CROWN SOAP BLACK.
Dissolve, over a slow fire, 1 pound of beeswax, 1 pound of crown soap,
3 ounces of indigo, 4 ounces of ivory black, and ½ pint of oil of
turpentine; as soon as dissolved remove from the fire, and stir until
cold.
FINISHING BLACK.
Mix together ½ ounce each of gelatin and indigo, 8 ounces of extract of
logwood, 2 ounces of crown soap, 8 ounces of softened glue, and 1 quart
of vinegar; heat the whole over a slow fire, and stir until thoroughly
mixed. Apply with a soft brush, and polish with a woolen cloth.
CORDOVA WAX.
Mix together 1½ pints of red acid (chromic), 1 pint of beer, 1 gill of
thick glue, 2 ounces of ivory black, and 1 dram of indigo; boil for
half an hour, and apply with a sponge.
GERMAN BLACKING.
Soften 2 pounds of good glue, and melt it in an ordinary glue kettle;
then dissolve 2 pounds of castile soap in warm water and pour it into
the glue; stir until well mixed, and add ½ pound of yellow wax cut
into small pieces; stir well until the wax is melted, then add ½ pint
of neat’s-foot oil and enough lampblack to give the desired color. When
thoroughly mixed, it is ready for use.
ANILIN BLACK.
Mix 1 dram of fine anilin black with 60 drops of concentrated
hydrochloric acid and 1½ ounces of alcohol. This produces a deep blue
liquid, which, when diluted with 1½ ounces of shellac dissolved in
alcohol, will produce a beautiful black.
BLACKING FOR RESTORING HARNESS.
Mix 1 ounce of indigo, 1 pound of extract of logwood, 1 ounce of
softened glue, and 8 ounces of crown soap (common softsoap can be used
if the other kind can not be had) in 2 quarts of vinegar; place the
mass over a slow fire, and stir until thoroughly mixed. Apply with a
soft brush, and use a harder one for polishing.
BLACKING FOR PATENT OR ENAMELED LEATHER.
Mix together ½ pound each of ivory black, purified lampblack, and
pulverized indigo, 3 ounces of dissolved gum arabic, 4 ounces of brown
sugar, and ¼ ounce of glue dissolved in 1 pint of water; heat the whole
to a boil over a slow fire, then remove and stir until cool, and roll
into balls.
BLACKING FOR RESTORING LEATHER COVERED MOUNTINGS.
Melt 3 parts of white wax, then add 1 part gum copal, dissolved in
linseed oil, and 1 part of ivory black; allow the mass to boil for five
minutes, remove it from the fire and stir until cool, then roll it up
into balls.
BLACKING FOR THE FLESH SIDE.
Mix together 1 pound of prime lampblack and 12 pounds of pure
neat’s-foot oil; melt 6 pounds of good tallow, and add it while hot to
the lampblack and oil. Mix it well, and when cold it will be fit for
use.
ANOTHER.
To 1½ pounds of lampblack add 1 gallon of pure neat’s-foot oil and 1
quart of vinegar black; allow it to stand 24 hours, and it will be
ready for use.
STAINS.
The use of russet and brown leather for reins, etc., necessitates the
employment of stains of various shades in the workshop, in order that
the reins or other straps may be of a uniform color after being worked.
In most cases rein leather is stained by the currier, but when worked,
the freshly cut edges, etc., need to be stained to correspond with
the grain. The stains used are generally made of Spanish saffron and
anotta, or of saffron alone, made up in various ways, the most common
and reliable being the following:
Boil a given amount of saffron in water until the color is extracted;
cut a quantity of anotta in urine and mix the two together, the
proportions of each determining the shade; the more anotta used the
darker is the color.
Another manner of preparing this stain is to boil ½ ounce of Spanish
saffron and ¼ ounce of anotta in water until the dye is extracted, to
which must be added some alcohol to set the color.
To make a stain of saffron alone, boil a quantity in water until the
dye is extracted; strain off, and, when cold, add alcohol in order
to set the color. The shade may be changed by adding oxalic acid in
varying quantities according to the color required. The proportions
can not be given with any degree of accuracy, as the color is a matter
of taste, and can be regulated by using greater or less proportions of
each article.
Another saffron stain is made by boiling saffron in a small quantity of
water until the color is extracted, and reducing with urine.
In using any of these stains, apply them with a cloth, and, when nearly
dry, rub with a woolen rag slightly waxed.
A yellow stain is produced by boiling fustic berries in alum water; the
shade may be darkened by the addition of a small quantity of powdered
Brazilwood boiled with the berries.
Another yellowish red stain is made of Brazilwood and yellow berries
in proportion to suit, boiling them in water until the coloring matter
is extracted. This can be applied to sides that have not been stained,
when intended for flat reins, halters, etc., in the following manner:
Lay the leather upon a table, and rub the flesh side with a warm
stretching iron; turn it over and moisten the grain side with water,
and rub with a copper stretching iron until the leather is nearly dry;
then apply the coloring matter to the grain, and rub with a copper
slicker. When the leather is perfectly dry, rub the grain with a glass
slicker. An edge stain is made by adding a small quantity of alum to
the above mentioned ingredients.
A brown stain is made by boiling equal parts of pine and alder barks
in six times their bulk of water until all the coloring matter is
extracted, and when cold adding a small quantity of alcohol. Saffron
boiled for twelve or fifteen hours gives a good brown stain, to which
alcohol must be added to make it set.
Picric acid and water, in proportions of 1 to 10, heated to a blood
heat, makes a good yellow stain. Wold boiled in water also makes a
yellow stain.
An orange yellow is produced by boiling fustic berries in alum water.
This stain may be converted into a rich brown by washing the leather
to which it has been applied, before the stain is fairly dry, with an
alkali.
A red stain is produced by boiling Brazilwood in lye. If mixed with
wold, it produces a brownish yellow, well adapted for use on halters
and bridles.
An edge stain for russet leather is made by cutting 4 ounces of anotta
in 2 quarts of urine, allowing it to stand for twenty-four hours, then
adding 3 quarts of water and boiling until reduced to one half the
original quantity.
All stains appear to better advantage and are rendered more durable by
being covered with a little shellac varnish, which should be applied
after the reins are all dry, and then finished up as previously
directed. The shellac should be applied with a sponge.
A bright orange stain is made by mixing yellow anilin with alum water.
One ounce of oxalic acid, 1 ounce of spirits of salts, 1 scruple of
bruised cochineal, and 1 pint of boiling water makes a good brown stain.
Another red stain is made by dissolving 1 ounce of cochineal in ½ pint
of hot water, and adding 1 gill of spirits of hartshorn.
A bright crimson stain is alum or tin salts and a decoction of
cochineal.
VARNISHES.
SHELLAC VARNISH.
Dissolve 6 parts of shellac in alcohol using no more of the latter than
is absolutely necessary to dissolve the gum, and mix it with 3 parts of
Venetian turpentine, heating the whole until the mixture is complete;
when cool, add ½ part of fine bone black and ½ part of oil of lavender
(all the parts by weight). Mix the mass in a druggist’s mortar, and
rub smooth; then add turpentine enough to reduce it to the proper
consistency.
ELASTIC VARNISH.
Dissolve ½ pound of gum caoutchouc in ether, and when thoroughly cut,
add ½ pound each of linseed oil and spirits of turpentine; boil over a
slow fire until the mixture becomes clear, strain it, and when cold it
is ready for use. To harden it and make it dry quicker, use one half
the quantity of gum caoutchouc, and substitute the best gum copal for
the remainder.
GERMAN LEATHER VARNISH.
Pulverize a quantity of the best copal gum, and add enough turpentine
to moisten it; place it in a glazed vessel, and allow it to stand over
a moderate fire until the gum is thoroughly dissolved, which will
require about ten hours. Next take double the quantity of linseed oil
that there is of the gum and turpentine combined, and heat it; when
nearly to a boil, pour in the dissolved gum, and allow it to remain
over the fire until it has reached as high a degree of temperature
as it will bear with safety, stirring it all the while; then remove
from the fire, and when it has cooled a little, thin with spirits of
turpentine until the proper consistency is reached, strain through
a fine cloth, bottle it, and set it in the sun to ripen. This is an
excellent varnish for horse collars. If used upon those that have lost
their color, a little bone black should be added.
LACK VARNISH BALLS.
Melt together 2 ounces of white wax and 6 ounces of beef tallow; add
½ pint of turpentine, 8 ounces of ivory black, 2 ounces of Prussian
blue ground in linseed oil, and allow the mass to boil for about five
minutes; then remove it from the fire and add 4 ounces of shellac
varnish, stir the mass until cool, and roll into balls.
BLACK VARNISH.
Pulverize and mix together 1½ parts of mastic, 2½ parts of shellac, 2½
parts of dragon’s blood, and 2 parts of the best bone black; heat 1½
parts of turpentine and 10 parts of alcohol, pour them over the gums,
place the whole over a moderate fire, and boil until the latter are
thoroughly dissolved.
WATERPROOF VARNISH.
Pulverize 1 pound of shellac, and put it into a bottle with a
sufficient quantity of alcohol to cover the gum; cork the bottle
tightly, and keep it in a warm place until the gum is dissolved. To
a quart of the liquid add 1 ounce of ivory black and ½ ounce of gum
camphor dissolved in alcohol. Apply with a varnish brush. If too thick
to work well, thin with alcohol.
BLACK VARNISH FOR JAPANNED WORK.
Dissolve 2 pounds of asphaltum in 1 pint of boiled linseed oil; heat
in an iron pot until thoroughly fused, then remove from the fire, and,
when cooled off a little, add 2 quarts of spirits of turpentine, and
stir until cold. Apply with a brush. This makes an excellent japan for
retouching japanned mountings, seats, etc., that have been injured by
the japan scaling off.
CHEAP SHELLAC VARNISH.
Dissolve asphaltum in turpentine, using no more of the latter than is
absolutely necessary; add a small quantity of bone black and enough
shellac varnish to reduce it so that it can be applied with a brush.
Spread it very thinly.
ELASTIC VARNISH.
Equal parts of gum caoutchouc and copal, the former dissolved in ether,
heated in a vessel until thoroughly dissolved, with enough linseed
oil added while hot to reduce it to the proper consistency, makes an
elastic varnish well suited for finishing collars.
POLISHES.
FRENCH POLISH.
Beat 5 pounds of stearin out into thin sheets with a wooden mallet,
and mix with 7 pounds of oil of turpentine, after which subject the
mass to a water bath, and heat up; when hot, add ½ ounce of ivory or
bone black, stirring well to prevent crystallization. To cool it off,
it should be emptied into another vessel and stirred until cold. To
use, warm it until it is reduced to a liquid state, and apply in small
quantities with a cloth; afterward rub it well with a piece of silk or
linen cloth to bring up the polish.
POLISH FOR PATENT LEATHER.
Mix together the whites of two eggs, 1 teaspoonful of spirits of wine,
1 ounce of sugar, and as much finely pulverized ivory black as may be
required to produce the necessary shade of black. Apply with a sponge,
and polish with a piece of silk.
WAX POLISH.
Melt together 1 pound of white wax, 1 pound of crown soap, 5 ounces of
ivory black, 1 ounce of indigo, and ½ pint of nut oil; dissolve over a
slow fire, stir until cool, and turn into small moulds.
LIQUID POLISH.
Melt 2 pounds of wax, and add ¼ pound of washed and well dried litharge
by screening it through a fine sieve; then add 6 ounces of ivory black,
and stir until cool, but not cold; add enough turpentine to reduce it
to a thin paste, after which add a little birch or other essential oil
to prevent it from souring.
GERMAN LEATHER POLISH.
Soften 1 part of white glue in water, add 3 parts of crown soap, and
heat the whole over a slow fire until the glue is thoroughly dissolved;
moisten 3 parts of bone black with vinegar, and mix it with 1 part of
wheat starch beat smooth in cold water; mix the whole, and allow it to
stand over a slow fire for half an hour, stirring it all the time, then
turn it into another kettle and stir until it is cold. To use, dissolve
a small quantity in sour beer or vinegar, and apply with a brush,
spreading it as thinly as possible.
CHAPTER XXVI.
MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES FOR THE WORKSHOP AND HARNESS ROOM.
TO CLEAN MOULDY LEATHERS.
Remove the surface mould with a dry cloth, and with another cloth apply
pyroligneous acid. Leather that has been badly moulded can be restored
in this way.
TO PROTECT HARNESS FROM RATS.
Apply a plentiful coat of castor oil. If the harness is to be used,
add tallow in the proportions of about one third of the latter to two
thirds oil.
WATERPROOF OIL.
Take of lard oil 100 parts, paraffin 50 parts, beeswax 5 parts; heat
the oil over a slow fire, and when hot add the paraffin and wax; allow
the whole to remain over the fire until the latter articles are melted,
and add a few drops of oil of sassafras or other essential oil to
preserve it.
CROWN SOAP.
This soap, so much used by stablemen for cleaning harness, is made of
whale or cod oil, lye of potassa, and a small quantity of tallow. The
oil gives to the soap a dark brown color, the tallow forming white
granulations. This is simply the Scotch softsoap; it can be produced at
a price far below that asked for the imported article.
BELGIUM BURNISHING POWDER.
Mix together ½ pound of fine chalk, 3 ounces of pipe clay, 2 ounces of
dry white lead, ¾ of an ounce of carbonate of magnesia, and ¾ of an
ounce of rouge.
POWDER FOR CLEANING SILVER.
Mix together 1 ounce of fine chalk, 2 ounces of cream of tartar, 1
ounce of rotten stone, 1 ounce of red lead, and ½ ounce of alum, and
pulverize thoroughly in a mortar. Wet the mixture and rub it on the
silver, and, when dry, rub off with a dry flannel, or clean with a
small brush.
POWDER FOR CLEANING BRASS MOUNTINGS.
Make a paste of equal parts of sulphur and chalk, with sufficient
vinegar to reduce it to the proper consistency. Apply it to the metal
while moist, allow it to dry on, and rub with chamois skin. For
ornaments or engraved work, clean with a brush.
Another process, and one that gives to the brass a very brilliant
color, is to make a wash of alum boiled in strong lye, in the
proportion of 1 ounce of alum to 1 pint of the latter. Wash the brass
with this mixture, and afterward rub with shammy and tripoli.
A weak solution of ammonia in water makes an excellent wash for
cleaning tarnished silver plate. Apply it with a rag, dry with a piece
of shammy, and afterward rub with a piece of shammy and a very small
quantity of jewelers’ rouge.
PREPARED CHALK.
Pulverize chalk thoroughly, and mix with distilled water in the
proportion of 2 pounds to the gallon; stir well, and then allow it to
stand about two minutes, during which time the gritty matter will have
settled to the bottom; then pour the chalky water into another vessel,
being careful not to disturb the sediment, and allow the fine chalk to
settle to the bottom; pour off the water, and place the chalk in a warm
oven to dry. This is an excellent powder for restoring silver, and it
is also useful as a base for other polishing powders.
Spanish whiting treated in the same manner, with a small quantity of
jewelers’ rouge added, makes a powder that is a little sharper than the
prepared chalk, and which is well adapted to cleaning polished steel
articles.
A third powder, and one that is still sharper than either of the above,
is made of rotten stone treated in the same manner as the chalk. The
addition of bone black to any of these powders will prevent their
discoloring the leather.
TO PREVENT STEEL BITS FROM RUSTING.
Polished steel bits, chains, etc., whether in packages or in showcases,
may be preserved from rust by dusting them over with quicklime.
Those in use should be placed in a box nearly filled with thoroughly
pulverized slaked lime immediately after being removed from the horse.
The lime absorbs the moisture, and thus prevents rust. Before using,
rub well with a woolen cloth. Polished steel, when covered with red
rust, may be cleaned as follows: Cover the article with oil, and rub it
with a woolen cloth to remove the lighter portion of the rust, after
which apply another coat of oil, and allow it to remain undisturbed for
two or three hours, then clean off with whiting and a woolen cloth. If
the rust has been upon the steel sufficiently long to have eaten into
the metal, the surface can be restored only by the use of the emery
belt or wheel.
TO CLEAN RUBBER COVERED MOUNTINGS.
Rub the covered as well as the metallic parts with a shammy and a
little tripoli, and finish with a clean woolen cloth.
TO CLEAN RUSSET LEATHER COVERED MOUNTINGS.
Remove all stains and dirt by rubbing the leather with a cloth and a
little oxalic acid, and restore the color and finish by the use of
salts of lemon, applied with a woolen cloth. Rub the leather until a
good polish is produced.
VARNISH FOR COLLARS.
Digest shellac 12 parts, white turpentine 5 parts, gum sandarac 2
parts, lampblack 1 part, spirits of turpentine and alcohol each 40
parts.
TO CLEAN CELLULOID COVERED MOUNTINGS.
Rub the covered parts with a woolen cloth and a little tripoli, and
polish with a clean woolen rag.
POLISHING LIQUID FOR OROIDE OR BRASS.
Place 2 ounces of sulphuric acid in an earthen vessel, and add 1 quart
of cold soft water; after the heat that is generated has passed off,
add 1 ounce each of tripoli and jewelers’ rouge. When well mixed, put
in a bottle for use.
TO CLEAN GILT MOUNTINGS.
Gilt mountings unless carefully cleaned soon lose their lustre. They
should not be rubbed; if slightly tarnished, wipe them off with a piece
of canton flannel, or, what is better, remove them from the harness and
wash in a solution of ½ ounce of borax in 1 pound of water, and dry
them with a soft linen rag. Their lustre may be improved by heating
them a little and rubbing with a piece of canton flannel or a soft
polishing brush.
TO CLEAN RIDING SADDLES.
If much soiled, wash the leather with a weak solution of oxalic acid
and water, and, when dry, with the watery portion of beef blood. The
latter can be preserved by adding a little carbolic acid, and keeping
it in a bottle tightly corked.
TO CLEAN STEEL BITS.
Steel bits that are tarnished, but not rusty, can be cleaned with
rotten stone, common hard soap, and a woolen cloth.
TO FINISH THE EDGES OF RUSSET REINS.
Use salts of tartar and water. If discolored, first remove the stain
with a weak solution of oxalic acid.
TO CLEAN BROWN RIDING SADDLES.
Saddles may be cleaned to look as well as new by the use of tepid water
and crown soap; if the latter can not be had, use pure castile soap.
TO STAIN REIN LEATHER.
A rich permanent brown can be imparted to rein leather by treating
the hides, after they are tanned, to a bath in a liquor made from
equal parts of pine and alder bark. The hides are spread in a vat,
with liquor enough to cover them, where they are allowed to remain
one week; they are then removed, and fresh liquor is applied; by
repeating this treatment three or four times, a very rich brown can be
produced. Orange brown is produced by scraping the flesh side after
the hides have been removed from the vats for the last time, and
sprinkling them on the scraped side with pulverized alum. As soon as
each one is sprinkled with the alum, it is laid in another vat, one
upon the other, and allowed to remain twenty-four hours; they are then
moistened with the alum liquor in the bottom of the vat, and laid upon
the beam and well worked, after which they are rubbed with salt and
alum, and rolled up and allowed to remain undisturbed for twenty-four
hours; this salting is repeated three times, after which the hides are
stretched lengthwise and dried; they are then boarded and worked soft,
and treated to a coat of hog’s lard and train oil on the flesh side;
in about two days they are again boarded, and worked off with a glass
slicker. This leather has a fine grain, and retains its softness for a
long time.
SMEARY GREASE FOR RUSSET LEATHER.
Mix together 1 part of palm oil and 3 parts of common soap, and heat
up to 100°; then add 4 parts of oleic acid and 1¾ parts of tanning
solution containing at least ¹/₁₆ part tannic acid (all parts by
weight), and stir until cold. This is recommended as a valuable grease
for russet leather, and as a preventive of gumming.
TO SEPARATE SIDES OF PATENT LEATHER.
Patent and enameled leather will, if the glazed sides are placed
together in warm weather, become stuck together, and, unless carefully
separated, the leather will be spoiled. The simplest and best way to
separate sides is to place them in a drying or other hot room; when
hot, they can be taken apart without injury to the glazed or enameled
surface. If a drying room is not accessible, lay the sides on a tin
roof on a hot day, and they will soon become heated sufficiently to
allow their being separated without injury. Any attempt to separate
without heating to a high degree will prove a failure.
TO CURRY RUSSET LEATHER.
The hide to be curried is placed upon a table, and a warm iron is
rubbed over the flesh side; it is then turned over, and the grain side
is moistened with water and rubbed with a copper slicker until it is
nearly dry, after which coloring matter, made of Brazilwood and yellow
berries, is applied to the grain, and it is once more rubbed with the
slicker; it is then spread out to dry, and the final finish is given by
rubbing the grain with a glass slicker. This produces a very fine grade
of leather for riding bridles, russet reins, etc.
TO COLOR EDGES OF SADDLE FLAPS.
Use a strong solution of soda, apply it to the freshly cut edges, and,
when nearly dry, rub with a woolen rag until a good polish is produced.
HARNESS OIL.
An excellent oil for team and farm harness is made of beef tallow and
neat’s-foot oil, as follows: Melt 3 pounds of pure tallow, but do not
heat it up to a boil; then pour in gradually 1 pound of neat’s-foot
oil, and stir until the mass is cold; if properly stirred, the two
articles will become thoroughly amalgamated, and the grease will be
smooth and soft; if not well stirred, the tallow will granulate and
show fine white specks when cold. The addition of a little bone black
will improve this oil for general use.
INDEX.
B
PAGE
Belgium Burnishing Powder, 318
Bitting Harness, 288
Bits, 281
Buckles, 271
Buying Leather, 37
C
Care of Harness, 206
Celluloid Mountings, to Clean, 321
Cleaning Brass, 318
Coach and Wagon Bridles, 181
Coloring Edges, 325
Crown Soap, 317
Currying Russet Leather, 324
Cutting Harness, 45
Cuttings for Harness, 64-104
Adjustable Tree, 94
Bitting, 100
Breast Collar, Single, 68
Cart, 102
Double Road, 74
English Four-in-hand, 80
Express, 84
Express, Heavy, 80
Hame Collar, 70
Heavy Coupé, 72
Long Tug Coach, 78
Long Tug Farm, 90
Long Tug Team, 83
Mule, 103
Pennsylvania Wagon, 96
Road, Single, 66
Short Tug Coach, 76
Short Tug Butt Chain, 104
Stage, 98
Tandem, 82
Track, 64
Wagon, 92
G
Gilt Mountings, to Clean, 321
Grease for Russet Leather, 323
H
Halters, 205
Harness Leather, 21
Harness Loops, 161
Harness Mountings, 249
Harness Oil, 325
Horse Boots, 224
L
Leather, Blacking and Stains, 302
Black, Anilin, 307
Ball, 303
Crown Soap, 306
Finishing, 306
Flesh, 308
German, 306
Hatters’, 303
Leather Mountings, 308
Liebig’s, 305
Liquid, 305
Logwood, 302
Patent, 305
Patent Leather, 307
Restoring, 307
Vinegar, 302
Waterproof, 305
Stains, Brown, 310
Crimson, 311
Orange Yellow, 307
Red, 310
Yellow, 309
Yellow-Red, 309
Varnishes, Black, 313
Black Ball, 313
Collar, 321
Elastic, 312
German Leather, 312
Shellac, 311
Waterproof, 313
Polishes, French, 315
German, 316
Liquid, 315
Patent Leather, 315
Wax, 315
M
Making, Breast Collar Harness, 112
Gig Saddles, 139
Ornamented Truck Harness, 136
Pads, Coach, 149
Soft, 153
Plain Hard, 156
Plain, 159
Team Harness, 128
Truck Harness, 122
Measuring for Harness, 58
Miscellaneous Recipes, 317
Mouldy Leather, to Clean, 317
P
Patent Leather, 40
Patent Leather, to Separate, 324
Prepared Chalk, 319
Preparing Leather for the Fitter, 53
Prevent Steel from Rusting, 320
Polishing Liquid, 321
Polishing Powders, 318
Powder for Cleaning Silver, 318
R
Rein Leather, 322
Repairing Harness, 240
Riding Bridles, 197
Riding Saddles, to Clean, 322
Round Reins, 133
Rubber Covered Mountings, to Clean, 320
Russet Leather, 33
Russet Leather Mountings, to Clean, 320
S
Stitching Harness, 168
T
Trimmings, 105-111
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