A dictionary of men's wear

By William Henry Baker

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Title: A dictionary of men's wear

Author: William Henry Baker

Release date: June 14, 2025 [eBook #76299]

Language: English

Original publication: Cleveland: William Henry Baker, 1908

Credits: Richard Tonsing, deaurider, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A DICTIONARY OF MEN'S WEAR ***





                                   A
                               Dictionary
                                   of
                               Men’s Wear


Embracing all the terms (so far as could be gathered) used in the men’s
wear trades expressiv of raw and finisht products and of various stages
and items of production; selling terms; trade and popular slang and cant
terms; and many other things curious, pertinent and impertinent; with an
appendix containing sundry useful tables; the uniforms of “ancient and
honorable” independent military companies of the U. S.; charts of
correct dress, livery, and so forth.

                                   By

                          William Henry Baker

                 Author of “A Dictionary of Engraving”

[Illustration: [Logo]]

    “A good dictionary is truly very interesting reading in spite of
    the man who declared that such an one changed the subject too
    often.”

                                                     —S WILLIAM BECK

                               CLEVELAND

                          WILLIAM HENRY BAKER

                                  1908




           Copyright 1908 By William Henry Baker Cleveland O


               Press of The Britton Printing Co Cleveland




                               Dedication


            Conforming to custom this unconventional book is

                              =Dedicated=

            to those most likely to be benefitted, i. e., to

    The 15000 or so Retail Clothiers
        The 15000 or so Custom Tailors
            The 1200 or so Clothing Manufacturers
                The 5000 or so Woolen and Cotton Mills

    The 22000 or so Retail Shoe Dealers
        The 2300 or so Shoe Manufacturers and Jobbers
            The 19000 or so Retail Hatters
                The 1000 or so Hat and Cap Manufacturers and Jobbers

    The 12000 or so Haberdashers
        The 22000 or so Dry Goods and Department Stores
            And other allied lines of business in this country
                Alike to owners and employes and especially to

                        =“The Advertising Man”=
               Who usually gets all that is coming to him
                              and finally
                      To every man with a library




                              Explanatory


 Some seven years ago the author, then connected with a clothing
manufacturing concern as advertising manager, wrote a compact little
“Clothes Dictionary” which was presented to the trade with the
compliments of the publishers. All definitions were short and to the
point, many were humorous, and all were within a necessarily limited
scope of interest. There had never been anything like it and the book
“caught on” immediately, with the result that the author thereupon went
to work seriously to compile a larger, fuller, more comprehensiv
dictionary along similar lines.

The present book is the result. Six years or more (as time permitted)
have been spent in reading, listening and correspondence for new terms
and new meanings.

Naturally, as all first compilations must inevitably be, the book is,
frankly, lacking many definitions, particularly of terms in popular use
long ago, and doubtless, many of today. Wherefore no claim is made that
the book is complete, but it is believed that it is reasonably so—or
usably so.

In compilation the main purpose has been to make the book comprehensiv
(covering about everything of men’s wear, use and interest) and,
contrary to most dictionaries, encyclopedias and the like, interesting.

Altho the title specifies “men’s wear”, the book broadly covers many
items of women’s wear (as many fabrics, etc., are common to both sexes),
and except that items of strictly women’s wear have been omitted, might
have been entitled “A Dictionary of Apparel”, and should, therefore, be
of quite as much interest to the straight drygoods merchant as to the
modern clothier.

The definitions are not tiresomely long—not any of them—but all are of
sufficient length to cover essentials and are accurate and reliable;
and, altho the dictionary is somewhat encyclopedic, it is not intended
that it shall take the place of any encyclopedia. A feature of its
forerunner that may be appreciated is that many of the less important
and more obvious terms are dismist quite briefly or else freely or
facetiously handled—enough so to induce one to search the pages for
these alone.

Obviously, no hard and fast rules could be set to govern the work. Each
term had to be considered in itself and explained so clearly, without
waste (or skimping) of words, as to be understandable without the aid of
pictures. That there has been no necessity for illustrations and that
the book has been otherwise brightened without them the author considers
somewhat of an achievment.

In a word, it has been the aim of the author to make simply a handy
reference book, “popular” rather than learned, helping one over
transient needs, leaving the wearying technical dissertations to text
books, encyclopedias, etc. If this has been accomplisht, there is great
cause for satisfaction to

                                                     WILLIAM HENRY BAKER

  Cleveland, 1908




                               Memorandum


Please don’t be provoked by the use of “simplified spelling.” It helpt
me cram much more in the compass of this book than could have been done
with the use of some of our superannuated forms. Besides, simplification
is the order of the day, and we might as well get used to it, every one
of us. And, again, only the less jarring and those surest of early
adoption have been used: there’s a concession to conservatism and “the
conventions”.

Neither permit the abbreviation of repetitions of index-words to the
initial letters thereof to confuse you. The eye catches the sense and
simplicity of the scheme quickly enough (the brain should be no less
nimble)—and the eye must not be offended. Besides, this has saved me
more space than “simplified spelling”.

Please notice, further, that this is not a pronouncing dictionary. Most
people in the trade don’t need this feature, thru daily familiarity with
the terms, even tho they may not thoroly understand them—which is
nothing unusual. And so, to keep as many “high-browed” features out of
the way as was possible, and to make this just a handy look-into book
for everyday folks (such a book as I have longed for for my own use)
pronunciation, grammar-classing, and such like devices of the weary
big-books were deemed superfluous and dropt. You will have to go to
them, anyway, on some subjects which this book treats briefly—why tire
you beforehand?—W. H. B.




                         Authorities Consulted


 New International Encyclopedia
 Standard Dictionary
 Cole’s “Encyclopedia of Dry Goods”
 Giles’ “History of Cutting in England”
 Planche’s “History of Costume”
 Mrs. Earle’s “Two Centuries of Costume in America”, “Costume of Colonial
    Days”, etc.
 Mrs. Aria’s “Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical”
 Mitchell’s “New Standard Coat System”
 Croonborg’s “Supreme System for Men’s Garments”
 Baker’s “Clothes Dictionary”
 Beck’s “Gloves: Their Annals and Associations”
 Boutell’s “Arms and Armour”
 Rimmel’s “The Book of Perfumes”
 Edwards’ “History and Poetry of Finger Rings”
 Hamersly’s “Naval Encyclopedia”
 “Clothes and the Man” by the “Major” of Today
 “The Complete Bachelor” by the author of the “As Seen by Him” papers
 Johnston’s “Clans and Their Tartans”
 Farmer’s “Americanisms, Old and New”

 U. S. War Dept. General Orders No. 169, Aug. 14, 1907, et seq. (Uniform
    Regulations)
 U. S. Navy Dept. Uniform Regulations, 1905
 U. S. Marine Corps Uniform Regulations, 1908
 U. S. Interior Dept. Bureau of Forestry Uniform Regulations
 U. S. Treasury Dept., Circular No. 3, Customs Officer’s Uniforms, Jan.
    3, 1905
 U. S. Treasury Dept. Revised Regulations, Uniforms U. S. Revenue Cutter
    Service, 1900, et seq.
 U. S. State Dept. Report on Silk and Silk Manufactures (Cowdin)
 New York City Police Dept. Manual, 1905
 New York City Fire Dept. Regulations, 1905
 Chicago Police Dept. Uniform Regulations
 Chicago Fire Dept. Uniform Regulations

 “Sartorial Art Journal”
 “American Tailor and Cutter”
 “American Gentleman”
 “Daily Trade Record”
 “Apparel Gazette”
 “The Haberdasher”

 “Clothier and Furnisher”
 “American Hatter”
 “American Silk Trade Journal”
 “Dry Goods Economist”
 “Jeweler’s Circular”
 “Boot and Shoe Recorder”
 “Fibre and Fabric” and other trade journals

Many reference books and other books not specially consulted for this
purpose

Various Government reports not separately credited

Numerous trade catalogs, brochures, etc.




                        Personal Acknowledgments


In recognition of interest and assistance rendered in the matter of
definitions, etc.:

S. S. Paupst, ex-secretary International Custom Cutters’ Association of
America, Cleveland

John A. Carlstrom, ex-president International Custom Cutters’
Association of America, author of “Proportions of the Human Form” and
other works on tailoring, New York

Samuel Dreyer, of Alschuler, Dreyer & Co., clothing manufacturers,
Chicago

Globe Woolen Co., New York

Schnabel Bros., woolens, New York

Regal Shoe Co., East Whitman, Mass.

J. Harry Selz, of Selz, Schwab & Co., shoemakers, Chicago

The Crofut & Knapp Co., hat manufacturers, New York

Spear & Co., cap manufacturers, New York

Members of various independent military companies (in most instances,
the commanding officer) for matter in appendix

While particular and grateful acknowledgment is due to fellow workers in
the clothing and dry goods trades, from whom the argot and lingo of the
trade emanates and becomes, finally, “good English”




                               Dictionary


                                   A

=A 1=—(=1=) of first quality; (=2=) entitled to unlimited credit.

=A la mode=—in style; according to the vogue.

=Aba=—(=1=) a very primitiv garment worn in Northern Africa, consisting
of a square of heavy woolen cloth, folded, with openings for head and
arms and worn after the manner of a coat or tunic; (=2=) a sort of
overcoat of rough brown material open in front, with wide sleeves
terminating at the elbow, worn in Persia. (Also called Abayeh.)

=Abb=—see Wool.

=Abdominal band=—an elastic bandage of knit wool, or other material,
worn over the stomach for general protection in cold weather, or as a
supporter or reducer.

=Abdominal guard=—a sort of suspensory (qv) having a metal or sole
leather protectiv piece with elastic straps, worn by football players,
wrestlers, etc.

=Academic gowns=—the loose, flowing garments worn by students and
professors at certain universities on certain occasions.

=Acid tannage=—a quick process of preparing leather for use, by
immersion in acids instead of the slower salt and bark preparations, and
requiring but 4 to 7 days to put the leather on the market.

=Acid test=—a term generally employed to designate a means of
determining the quality of anything, fabrics, for instance; as testing
the color of indigo with a mixture of acetic and sulfuric acids; for
more exhaustiv explanation see any good encyclopedia. See also
Boiling-out t.

=Acorn=—(=1=) an ornamental end-tag for military hat cords, slings,
etc.; (=2=) an embroidered device representing rank, corps, etc.,
usually placed on caps, collars, etc., of military uniforms.

=Actual measures=—tailoring term meaning no allowances for extra
roominess or any deviation from the usual practise.

=Ad=—easiest spoken and written diminutiv of advertisement, but
senseless in the latter case, advt. being preferable.

=Adhesiv plaster=—see Sticking p.

=Admiral’s uniform=—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service
dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress; see also variations.

=Adonis=—see Wig.

=Advertisement=—a statement of business fact, customarily with one or
more loop-holes.

=Advertisement writer=—a power in, for and against business in
proportion as he takes himself seriously or jocosely, appreciates or
undervalues his business status, and strives toward certain definit ends
or fritters time away; and yet, good or otherwise, one who seems to take
perpetual personal offense at the suggestions of “the old man”.

=Aesthetic=—(=1=) daintily nice; finical; affecting a love of the
beautiful; (=2=) the beautiful itself.

=After-pressing=—in clothing manufacture, the final pressing-off given
to finisht garments; a careful, painstaking operation during which the
niceties of shape omitted during first pressing (qv) are given to the
garment.

=Agraf=—an ornamental loop, clasp or lock. (=Agraffe.=)

=Aigret=—a tuft of feathers. (=Aigrette.=)

=Aiguilet=—an ornamental festoon or series of loopt gold cords, worn by
general officers of the army, marine corps, etc., with full dress and
special dress uniforms; attacht to right shoulder passing over the
shoulder, around and under the arm and across the right breast,
attaching to one of the top buttons of the coat as prescribed.
(=Aiguilette.=)

=Air-jacket=—a garment, usually of rubber, capable of being inflated and
used as a life preserver.

=Airs=—putting on; making believe; snobbery.

=Alamode=—a plain, soft, glossy silk of colonial days, somewhat like
surah-s, variously used, but especially for linings.

=Alapaca=—corruption of alpaca (qv).

=Alaska=—a cloth-topt rubber overshoe with a large tongue covering the
instep.

=Alaska seal=—the most uniformly good of the various fur seals; trade
term for “finest grade”.

=Alb=—a linen vestment, often richly trimmed, reaching to the ankles,
worn by priests over the cassock and amice, having close sleeves and
girded at the waist.

=Albert=—see Prince A.

=Albert cloth=—general term for reversible all-wool materials, each side
of different colors, and so finisht that no lining is required, used
chiefly for overcoats; better known as “golf cloth”, “plaid back
covert”, etc.

=Alexis=—a bag shaped cap, usually of fur, rounded at the top.

=Alforjas=—a sort of double wallet serving for saddlebags, but more
frequently carried slung across the shoulder; usually of canvas.
(Spanish.)

=Alizarin=—an absolutely fast-color dye substance, formerly obtained
from madder root, but now obtained in large quantities from anthracene,
a coal-tar product. (=Alizarine.=)

=All wool=—literally, fabrics composed entirely of wool—sheep’s wool;
but lately and not too honestly used in connection with fabrics having
an admixture of shoddy or garnetted yarns or having “decorations” of
silk or mercerized cotton, for which conditions the term “commercially
all-wool” has been suggested as less accusiv to sensitiv consciences and
as equally deceptiv to the buyer. Alackaday!

=All-wool-and-a-yard-wide=—a Yankee simile for thoro-going genuineness.

=All-wool-yard-wide-and-an-inch-thick=—familiar or jocular term for good
quality.

=Allapine=—a woolen fabric used for men’s wear in early part of the 18th
century.

=Alligator leather=—the tanned hide of the alligator, characterized by
its peculiar plate-like markings and its enormous durability; used to
some extent for shoe leather but more generally for traveling luggage,
pocket books, etc.

=Allonge=—see Wig.

=Alpaca=—(=1=) the wooly hair of a South American animal of the camel
family, first manufactured into fabrics by Sir Titus Salt, a worsted
spinner at Liverpool; (=2=) a thin, glistening, plain-woven, double-fold
fabric, usually with a fine cotton or linen warp, used for summer coats,
linings, etc.

=Alpargatas=—low, thick-soled sandals tied around the ankles with gay
ribbons, worn by Castalian peasants. Also called espardènas.

=Alpine hat=—see Fedora.

=Alteration hand=—in tailoring, a bushelman; one who alters garments to
make them agree with the pattern or to better fit the customer.

=Alterations=—(=1=) the sine qua non of a “perfect fit”, and eke items
of expense to the tailor; (=2=) makeshifts of the impecunious to force
garments into presentability for another season.

=Amana goods=—general term for flannels, calicos, jeans, stocking yarns,
etc., manufactured by the Amana Community or Society of True
Inspiration, a religious order centering principally at (and in other
towns about) Amana, Tabor Co., Iowa. Characteristics of these goods are
stoutness, simplicity and durability.

=Amber=—a fossilized resin of yellowish color, used for jewelry, cigar
holders, mouthpieces, etc.

=Ambergris=—a substance generated by the spermaceti whale and found
floating on the sea or washt ashore, used in the blending of certain
perfumes and valued for an ethereal fragrance imparted thereto.

=American shoulders=—“Epauls Americaine”, an appellation given to wadded
shoulders in France.

=Americans=—trade term for cloths produced by any of the many mills
comprising the great concern known as the American Woolen Company.

=Amice=—an embroidered ecclesiastical collar of fine white linen attacht
to a hood.

=Ammunition bag=—a b. or pouch of waterproof canvas or duck, carried
suspended by a strap from the shoulders; also used as lunch b., for
small luggage, etc.

=Ammunition belt=—see Cartridge b.

=Amulet=—a charm, often of precious metals and gems, worn around the
neck as a preventiv of ills, enchantments, accidents, etc.

=Anderson’s=—trade diminutiv for the fine ginghams manufactured by David
& John Anderson, Glasgow, Scotland.

=Anglesea=—trade name for a light, thinnish curl given to felt hat
brims; compare D’Orsay.

=Anglican cassock=—differing from Latin c. in that it is double-breasted
without buttons, the cincture or girdle being knotted behind the hip.

=Angola=—a thick, soft wooly overcoating.

=Angora=—(=1=) the hair or wool of the Angora goat of Asia Minor, from
which is woven the mohair fabrics of commerce. A. wool is classified as
combing, carding and coarse, and again subdivided into about ten other
grades. See Wool; (=2=) also, loosely, any fabric woven of A. wool.

=Anilin dye=—any dye stuff derived from coal tar; such dyes are
permanent on silk and wool, but are fugitiv on fabrics of vegetable
fiber. (=Aniline.=) See Alizarin dye.

=Ankle boot=—(=1=) a heavy rubber shoe reaching to the ankle for wear
over (lumbermen’s) heavy wool socks; (=2=) an old name for shoes.

=Ankle length=—trade term for undergarments reaching to the ankles.

=Ankle support=—a device of leather, metal or fiber for the support of
weak ankles, worn either inside or outside the stocking, but inside the
shoe, by athletes, children and people with weak ankles.

=Annapolis uniform=—see Cadet u.

=Anthropometry=—man-measurement; an essential tailoring study.

=Apple-pie-order=—in excellent condition; fine shape; neat and trim.

=Apprentice=—one who serves under another to learn a trade, art or
profession, especially when indentured; usually a minor.

=Apron=—(=1=) a sort of loose overgarment, variously made, of fabric,
leather, etc., worn to protect one’s clothes while at work; (=2=) the
curtain or inside waist lining of trousers; (=3=) a sort of light
drapery worn in hot countries around a hat or cap, covering the neck
(see Havelock); (=4=) part of the regalia of certain secret societies;
(=5=) a livery lap robe.

=Apron checks=—gingham woven in small, plain square checks.

=Apron overalls=—a style of o. made with a shield or apron covering
breast of wearer.

=Apron supporter=—a sort of belt or adjustable strap for holding aprons
(waiters, et al.) in place without slipping.

=Arch support=—a mechanical device made of metal or leather, or both,
worn inside the shoe, immediately under the arch of the foot and
conforming to the shape of the foot at this point, used as a support to
prevent the falling of the arch or support a flat foot.

=Arctics=—warm-lined waterproof overshoes, usually with rubber soles and
cloth tops, fastening with one or more buckles.

=Arkansaw toothpick=—see Bowie knife.

=Arm band=—an elastic band similar to a woman’s round garter, worn to
hold up shirt sleeves.

=Arm-head=—see Shoulder h.

=Arm-hole=—the opening in a coat or shirt to which the sleeve is joined;
the arm opening in a sleeveless waistcoat; the scye (qv).

=Arm-pit=—the axilla or cavity under the arm; compare Arm-hole and Scye.

=Arm-scye=—see Scye.

=Armenian cloak=—a fashionable overgarment of 1851, composed of one
piece of cloth (except for the sewed-on wide turnover collar) and with
no seams except the underarm seam of sleeve and the underarm body-join,
the collar and front edges trimmed with velvet or wide braid, and the
garment fastened at the neck with cord and tassels.

=Armistice cloth=—an effect in color combining; a sort of worsted cloth,
variant of Queen’s mourning c. and of Coronation c., exhibiting Boer
orange, royal blue and black with occasionally white or red; appeared
about the time of conclusion of Boer war and named in commemoration
thereof.

=Armlet=—(=1=) an ornamental band of classic times; (=2=) an elastic
used for holding up shirt sleeves; (=3=) a piece of ancient armor.

=Armor=—defensiv paraphernalia worn by the knights and soldiery of
medieval times and now manufactured for the benefit of those
manufacturing an ancestry. English a. since the Norman conquest may be
divided into 4 great groups: (=1=) mail a., worn until 1300; (=2=) mixt
mail and plate a., worn from say 1301 to say 1410; (=3=) plate a., worn
from about 1410 to almost 1600; (=4=) half a. (partial—these were the
days they were learning to do without it) worn until say 1700. If
interested further consult encyclopedia or other authoritativ work on
the subject.

=Armozine=—a strong corded silk once used for waistcoats.

=Armure=—any cloth woven in miniature imitation of feudal metal
armor-plates, heraldic devices, diamonds, birdseye and seeded effects;
specifically (1) a twilled or cross-twilled fabric of silk or wool; (2)
a manner of setting up loom harnesses to produce the wanted weave. The
principal “armures” are (a) taffeta or 2 harness, forming a single
interlacement; (b) serge or 3 harness; (c) twill or Batavia, 4 harness;
and (d) satteen, 5 or more harnesses.

=Army and navy brushes=—better known as military b. (qv).

=Army belt=—a waist b. of stuft russet leather or pigskin, with
detachable slings of same, worn by all officers (except chaplains) under
the dress coat and overcoat and outside the service coat. In the field,
cross belts over the shoulders for carrying saber and pistol are
authorized. A b. of black webbing with detachable slings of stuft russet
leather or pigskin may be worn under the dress coat. Full dress slings
worn with full dress uniform, and russet or pigskin with all others.

=Army brogan=—see Brogan.

=Army cap=—see Dress c., Service c., White c., Full dress c.

=Army facings=—see Officers’ f.

=Army hat=—see Service h.

=Army helmet=—for officers and enlisted men, of white and khaki-colored
materials; conforming to pattern in quartermaster’s dept.; worn in lieu
of service cap with the service uniform on garrison duty and as
otherwise prescribed; recently discontinued.

=Army leggings=—for officers, of stuft russet leather of strapputtee
pattern; for enlisted men, of cotton, duck or canvas, laced, of the
color of the service uniform.

=Army stripes=—see Trousers s.

=Army officers’ cape=—a circular c. of dark blue cloth reaching to the
tips of the fingers, with a rolling collar of black velvet and closing
at the throat with a long loop. Lined as follows: general officers and
officers of staff corps and departments, dark blue; infantry officers,
light blue; artillery officers, scarlet; cavalry officers, yellow. May
be worn by all officers when not on duty with troops under arms.

=Army overcoat=—for officers: a double-breasted ulster of olive-drab
woolen material, closing with 5 large horn buttons; deep standing
collar; a large vertical pocket, opening thru lining, with outer flap,
on each side; deep center vent; coat to reach 8 to 10 inches below knee,
with back belt let into side seams, buttoning behind; a detachable hood
of same material; bands of black braid on sleeves and other insignia
according to rank. For enlisted men: of olive-drab woolen material, the
general design and cut same as officers’ overcoats, bronze buttons.

=Army shoes=—for enlisted men: of black calfskin, blucher style for
dress; of stufft russet grain calf, for marching; of russet leather,
blucher style, for garrison; of brown cotton duck for barracks wear. For
officers, high shoes of black calf, black enamel or black patent leather
or of stuft russet leather.

=Army trunk=—any t. designed for army (or navy) officers’ use, commonly
provided with trays and compartments for saber, hats, shoes, in addition
to the usual provisions for suits of clothes, underwear, etc.

=Army uniforms=—see Full dress, Dress u., Service u., Fatigue u., et
var; also general orders No. 169, August 14, 1907, et seq.

=Arrowhead=—same as Crowsfoot (qv).

=Art fiber silk=—proprietary term for artificial or wood s. (also called
art s.), and articles made therefrom. See Artificial s.

=Art silk=—see Artificial s.

=Articles=—cant for a suit of clothes.

=Artificial silk=—a lustrous textil fabric, largely used for neckwear,
chemically produced from wood cellulose, and then dyed, spun, and woven
or knit; is easily injured by dampness or wet; its strength is said to
be about 68% of that of pure s. and of about the same elasticity. Also
called variously Art s., Textil(e) s., Wool s., etc.

=Artillery pocket=—the deadly hip p.

=Artillery uniform=—see Full dress, Dress u., Service u., Fatigue u., et
var.

=As had=—as before; up to quality of previous purchases.

=As is=—as it stands; not perfect; not guaranteed; without liability for
defects.

=Asbestos=—an excellent material for grave clothes.

=Ascot=—a cravat or neck dressing to be tied as a puff, once-over,
waterfall, etc.

=Assabet=—a well-known American make of flannel (qv).

=Astrakan=—a woolen or silk material with a long and closely curled pile
in imitation of the fur of that name. See below.

=Astrakhan fur=—the pelts of young lambs from the country of that name,
usually black and very curly; used for making collars, muffs, coats,
etc.

=Atef crown=—a high, conical headpiece or diadem of mythological
symbolism; also worn by certain kings on ceremonial occasions.

=Athletic pants=—loose cotton knee trousers or trunks, with a fly or
with elastic waistband.

=Athletic shirt=—a loose cotton s., cut low in the neck and either with
deep open armholes or with short loose shoulder sleeves.

=Athletic underwear=—general name for light, loose undergarments;
drawers usually cut knee length; shirts usually low neck and sleeveless,
sometimes with deep armholes.

=Atlas=—a light, half-silk fabric glost on one side, chiefly used for
linings.

=Attar of roses=—the fragrant, volatil, essential oil extracted from the
petals of roses; used pure and as a base for many other perfumes.

=Attleborough=—trade term meaning “cheap jewelry”, which is largely made
in Attleborough, Mass. See Brummagem.

=Au rigueur=—full ceremonious dress.

=Auction sale=—a merchandising fake, generally; if peripatetic an
invariable fraud.

=Aune=—the old French unit of cloth measure (1¼ yards), now superseded
by the metric system.

=Australian wool=—a term used commonly in the sense of exceptional
quality or excellence and to distinguish Australian w. from that
produced elsewhere. See Wool.

=Automatics=—trade term for worsted fabrics woven on automatic looms, in
contradistinction to those requiring much personal attendance.

=Automobile cap=—a rain, dust and windproof c. for motor wear, with and
without goggles.

=Automobile cape=—a leather or cloth c. for wear in automobiling.

=Automobile coat=—any c., especially an overcoat, designed for
automobile wear, of style varying according to taste or requirements,
but usually notable for amplitude of skirt, roominess, and the manner in
which it is made to protect against wind, rain, cold, dust, etc.

=Autumn weight=—see Fall w.


                                   B

=Baboosh=—a sort of slipper made with sole and vamp only, worn chiefly
in Oriental countries.

=Baby flannel=—a light-weight all-wool fabric, usually plain woven,
carefully finisht and bleacht white.

=Baby lamb=—see Persian l. and Broadtail.

=Bachelor’s button=—(1) a trouser’s b. with a self-clamping or riveting
shank; (2) a flower of the centaurea or ranunculus family, worn in
lapels by some exquisites.

=Bachelor’s gown=—a loose, flowing g. of black stuff, with hood and long
pointed sleeves, having facings of colored material indicativ of the
branch of learning.

=Back=—(1) of a garment, the rear part; (2) of a fabric, the underside.
See Back part.

=Back-and-fore stitch=—a combination of back s. and running s., made by
making a regular back s., but before withdrawing needle, letting it go
thru again and repeat; usually employed when speed is desired, but
greater strength needed than is afforded by regular running s. (qv).

=Back fold=—the plaits in the back of a frock or skirted coat.

=Back order=—a memorandum of goods due purchaser on original order,
which was shipt in an incomplete state, owing to shortage of some of the
items, which are placed on “back order”, to go forward as soon as
received.

=Back part=—broadly, the behind part or rear of any garment; in coat
making that part which joins the sidebody, as in a frock coat, or the
forepart, as in a sack coat.

=Back pockets=—hip p., which garrisoned, are infinit sources of shock
and trouble.

=Back shop=—a tailor’s workshop, on the premises.

=Back stitch=—considered the most important s. a tailor employs, made by
taking a long s. forward and another of half the length back; a very
strong and flexible s., used for sewing waist seams, inseams, sleeves,
etc.

=Back strap=—see Heel s.

=Backing=—(1) the under-web of double or faced cloth; (2) the refuse
from wool or flax dressing.

=Backt cloth=—technically, a single fabric with a series of threads so
woven on the under surface as to form almost a distinct layer of c., yet
in close combination with the face fabric, the object being a gain in
weight or bulk, or the appearance of it; one series of warp and weft
only is employed. Usually worsteds and cheap overcoatings. Loosely
called Double c., French back, etc. (qv). Compare Thru-and-thru.
(=Backed c.=)

=Badge=—a mark, token or decoration.

=Badger=—an animal of the melinae sub-family, the hide of which is used
for robes, etc., the hair for shaving brushes and other brushes.

=Badger whiskers=—a form of facial artistry, prescribed by Hon. Geo. E.
Badger, Secretary of the Navy, in 1841, to the effect that no part of a
sailor’s beard should be worn long except the whiskers, and that they
should not descend more than an inch below the ears and then in a line
with the mouth.

=Bag-and-baggage=—all one’s movable Lares and Penates.

=Bag breeches=—knickerbockers (qv) are sometimes so called—tho
incorrectly.

=Bag gloves=—see Punching b. g.

=Bag tag=—a t. usually of leather and variously made, for attaching to
hand luggage, and which contains the owner’s name, address, etc.

=Bag wig=—a w. with a bag to hold the back hair.

=Baggage=—trunks, valises, bundles, and the like, taken on a journey and
containing one’s wardrobe, toilet conveniences, etc.; luggage.

=Baggage examiners’ uniform=—see Custom’s officers’ u.

=Bagged=—tailoring term indicating that the edges of a coat were sewed
by machine all around from the wrong side and then turned; also that the
lining of a coat was first fitted to the garment in its several parts,
then sewed up, after which it and the coat were sewed together inside
out, except at the neck, much like a turn-sole shoe, and turned and
presst, the neck being finisht by hand.

=Bagged=—distended, bulged, misshapen, thru wear or neglect, as knees of
trousers in need of pressing.

=Bags=—slang for trousers.

=Baize=—a plain-worn, plain colored, slightly napt woolen fabric,
formerly used for clothing, but now more coarsely woven and used for
draperies, etc.

=Balance=—the hang or drape of a coat. Compare Not balanced.

=Balance measure=—tailoring term for a m. taken from the collar seam at
back center, running in front of arm to back center at natural waist
point. Not much in use at present.

=Balbriggan=—trade term for unbleacht cotton underwear and hosiery; from
Balbriggan, Ireland, where first made.

=Baldrick=—a sash or belt, often richly ornamented, usually worn over
the shoulder and diagonally across the breast, to support sword, bugle,
powder flasks, etc.

=Baldy=—a colloquial vulgarism for a baldheaded man.

=Bale=—a bundle or package.

=Baleine=—whalebone.

=Ball=—the widest part of the foot, or of a shoe, or of the sole
thereof; the tread.

=Ballet shirt=—a plainly made, loose white cotton blouse, susceptible of
being worn with almost any costume; often made with a wide, turned down
collar; a distinctiv garment for members of the chorus, male and female;
also called “chorus shirt”.

=Balling=—top making; one of the processes of manufacturing worsted
yarn. See Tops.

=Balmoral=—(1) a striped woolen stuff, heavy and durable; (2) a kind of
Scotch cap; (3) a shoe lacing in front. See =Laced shoe=.

=Bals=—trade diminutiv for balmoral, or laced shoe.

=Bamboo=—a kind of reed-wood, hollow, and very light, but elastic and
tough; used for walking sticks, baskets, etc.

=Band=—a trimming or finishing part of a garment or other article of
dress, usually a strip of material sewed into place.

=Band bow=—a readymade bow tie with a band passing around the collar and
fastening at some point, usually at the back.

=Band box=—a light paper or wooden b., round, square or oval, used for
carrying or storing hats, millinery, etc.; so called because used for
bands and ruffs in 17th century.

=Band teck=—a readymade neck scarf for wear with lay-down collar. See
Band bow and Teck.

=Band top=—the welted wrist finish of a glove.

=Band uniforms=—(=army=) the general uniforms of their regiments or
corps, with allowable ornaments to the dress and full dress uniforms of
officers; black lynx-skin shakos with plume and tassel of color of corps
or arm of service, with leather chinstraps with brass scales and
side-buttons, for drum-majors on full dress occasions; those for cavalry
drum-majors being smaller than those for other arms; batons as per
pattern, with silk cords and tassels of color of corps or arms of
service for dismounted drum-majors only; those with mounted bands
carrying sabers; belts, chevrons, stripes, etc., as per regulations.

=Bandage=—a temporary article of attire locally bestowed; a surgical
dressing.

=Bandana=—a large, bright-colored handkerchief with spots or figures
kept free from dye by local pressure in the dying process, or as in
later use freed by chemical extraction or bleaching. Originally a
Hindustani mode of dyeing in which hard knots were tied in the cloth
before dipping. When opened the fabric has a speckled appearance, the
dye having left the tied parts free from color. See Extracted and Batik.

=Bandboxy=—neat, smart, newish.

=Banded turban=—a plain-sided, plain-topt cap with a
pull-down-and-roll-up band.

=Banding=—in shirt collar making the process of sewing the b., if there
is one, to the collar proper; also applied to sewing of cuffs.

=Bandmaster’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Dress, Undress, Working dress, and
variations.

=Bands=—(1) the collars or ruffs of 16th and 17th centuries; (2) the
linen strips or tabs pendant from the front of a clerical or academical
collar or neckdressing.

=Bandsmen’s full dress coat=—(=navy=) see Full dress c.

=Bandsmen’s helmet=—(=navy=) black, the same as for enlisted men of the
marine corps, including spike, spike base and chin strap, with device of
the service, etc.

=Bandsmen’s trousers=—(=navy=) for bandmaster, of sky-blue cloth, cut
with medium spring, side pockets, with a welted edge stripe of scarlet
cloth 1 in. wide down the outer seams; for musicians, the same except
with a 3–16 in. welt of scarlet cloth.

=Bandsmen’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Dress, Undress, Working dress;
(=marine corps=) Special full dress, Full dress, Undress; (=army=) Full
dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u. Also variants.

=Bang up=—first-rate.

=Bangs=—a fringy feminin way of dressing the front hair; Ann Arbor boys
once astonisht a respectable nation by their adoption. See also
portraits of William Walter Phelps and Elihu Root.

=Banian=—a sailor’s colored frock. Probably a similar garment as
described in banyan (qv).

=Bankrupt=—can’t pay.

=Bannockburn=—a sort of tweed (qv) from a town of that name near
Glasgow, Scotland; also variously applied to fancy suitings made
elsewhere in England and America.

=Banyan=—an oriental style of neglige gown, not unlike a kimono, much
affected in colonial days, often very elaborate in material, color and
trimmings; a dressing gown.

=Baptismal gown=—a plain g. without collar and with wideopen flowing
sleeves, of black serge or cord or waterproof stuff.

=Baptismal pants=—(ought to be called b. trousers) a variety of rubber
wading p., (ought to be called w. trousers) with attacht boots, worn
just once by those whose faith is in baptism by immersion—but of course
oftener by the officiating clerygyman.

=Baptismal sleeves=—of gossamer rubber, for covering and protecting the
coat sleeves under the gown.

=Bar end=—trade term for buttonholes finished with a straight tack or
bar at right angles to the opening; most used in the collar trade. See
below.

=Bar tack=—an ornamental strengthening finish at the ends of pockets,
vents, etc. See B. t. stitch and Crowsfoot.

=Bar tack stitch=—in staying the ends of pockets, several long
perpendicular stitches are first taken at the ends to be protected; then
these are tackt down to the cloth at intervals by crosswise stitches and
finally smoothly covered on themselves, by closely laid over-and-under
stitches of the thread.

=Barathea=—general name for armure weave silk.

=Barber=—a human talking machine.

=Barber’s coat=—a short jacket worn by barbers while at work; usually of
white duck (tho sometimes black venetian or alpaca), commonly
single-breasted with gilt buttons.

=Bareface finish=—weaving term indicating that the nap is sheared off
completely. Compare dress faced, Scotch f., Velvet f.

=Barefoot sandals=—a name sometimes given to sole leather s. worn by
small children, sometimes with stockings, but more properly with
barefeet, heelless, fastened with straps and usually having cut-out
designs in front. Also called scrappers.

=Bargain=—“at a good bargain pause awhile”, especially in these latter
days.

=Bark=—see Tanbark.

=Barker=—a gent who stands outside of cheap clothing shops of the Baxter
street type to “persuade” (any way) passers-by to enter and purchase; a
type of worker higher toned merchants are endeavoring to suppress.

=Barlow=—the single-bladed jacknife we thought the world of when we were
kids.

=Barndoor trousers=—vernacular for front falls (qv).

=Baroque pearl=—an irregular shaped fresh water p.

=Barrackan=—in Mediterranean countries a camels-hair cloth for men’s
wear; in England a sort of moleskin; same as barragon (qv).

=Barracks shoes=—(=army=) for enlisted men; of brown cotton duck; worn
in barracks only.

=Barragon=—a light-weight corded woolen stuff (of about 1750) originally
of camels-hair. Probably same as barrackan (qv).

=Barrel=—the knot of a folded four-in-hand, teck or similar scarf.

=Barrel top=—trade term for trunks made with a convext top.

=Barring=—a method of re-enforcing or strengthening certain points in
the upper of a shoe by peculiar stitches inserted where desired by a b.
or stitching machine, the b. or re-enforcing stitches being located
mostly at the point in the upper where the vamp and top and tongue come
together at the so-called throat point of the shoe. The corners of a
blucher shoe where they lap onto the vamp are re-enforced by extra
stitching called b.; also Oxford shoes at the top of the heel seam are
usually re-enforced either by this method or an extra piece of leather.

=Barrow coat=—a garment made for us before we are born—a good example of
readymade guess-fits; specifically a square or oblong piece of flannel,
gathered at one end into a band, wrapped around an infant’s body below
the arms, the loose hanging part being turned up around the feet; also
called Pinning blanket.

=B’ar’s grease=—once a popular hair slickener.

=Barvell=—a coarse leather apron used by workmen and fishermen; name
practically obsolete.

=Baseball=—a periodical deterrent of attention to business; a summer
complaint afflicting the boss quite as seriously as the office boy, who
is especially subject to all influences of this sort.

=Baseball gloves=—stout g. of various shapes worn by baseball players.

=Baseball mask=—a sort of birdcage worn by catchers and umpires as a
protector of pulchritude.

=Baseball shoes=—soft leather or canvas s., three-quarters high, laced
well down to the toes, with low heels and with metal plates, spikes or
cleats on soles and heels for safety and surety in running.

=Baseman’s mitt=—a sort of cushioned leather mitten used in playing
baseball—of course!

=Basillard=—an old term for a poniard.

=Basket cloth=—c. woven in imitation of interlaced or plaited basket or
straw work; an effect produced solely by disposition of warp and weft
threads and not by colors of the yarn. See B. weave.

=Basket hilt=—a wide guard or cover continued up the hilt of a cutlas,
protecting nearly the whole hand from injury.

=Basket weave=—a plain w. in which two or more threads in both the
direction of warp and of filling are found together, giving a coarser
appearance of weave as if squared or plaited.

=Bastard=—any fabric woven in imitation of better and more expensiv
goods.

=Baste=—to sew loosely together or fasten temporarily in place with long
irregular stitches.

=Basting puller=—in clothing manufacture a workman (either gender) who
does nothing but draw out threads.

=Basting stitches=—temporary s. holding two or more pieces of material
together until the work is done. Usually a long running stitch or a
slight side stitch.

=Bastings=—left in a garment are said by the drivelly facetious to mean
that you have not paid the maker’s bill.

=Bat (to)=—a process of cleansing soiled linen by beating, and not by
rubbing as is usual with most laundresses.

=Bat bag=—a b. of canvas, leather or both, for carrying baseball bats.

=Batavia=—see Armure.

=Bath coating=—“like Mr. Brummel wears”; term not now in use and the
particular goods not identified.

=Bath mat=—a rug of heavy cotton terry or rag carpeting for the bather
to stand on after emerging from tub.

=Bath mitten=—a m. of knitted wool, terry toweling, etc., for bathing
purposes.

=Bath robe=—a long gown for wear between bath-room and dressing room,
also for bed-room lounging.

=Bath sheet=—an extra large bath towel used as a towel or as a
substitute for the bath robe.

=Bath slipper=—a s. with sole and vamp, but no counter or heel, the vamp
usually of material used for bath robes; a mule.

=Bath strap=—see Rubbing s.

=Bath towel=—a large t. of cotton or linen terry.

=Bathing belt=—a b. of canvas or other suitable material with which
modestly to sustain one’s bathing trunks.

=Bathing suit=—knee tights and a long sleeveless shirt; also a similar
one-piece garment; usually made of knitted cotton or worsted.

=Bathing trunks=—a tight-fitting knitted garment covering the person
from the waist to the upper part of the thighs.

=Batik=—name given to results in dyeing by which the pattern or design
is in black or of different color or colors than the ground color,
achieved in many ways, as (1) mordanting, (2) bleaching, (3) acid
treatment, (4) tying and drying, (5) wax overlays, etc. Name properly
designates only the primitiv East Indian processes. See Bandana,
Crossdye, Extracted, Resist dye, etc.

=Bating=—a process in the preparation of leather following upon that of
liming, for the purposes of reducing swellings or thickenings and for
cleansing of grease or other impurities, dog’s dung and warm water being
the agents mostly employed.

=Batiste=—a fine linen or cotton cloth similar to lawn or cambric.

=Batten=—in weaving the motion of pushing one weft thread up close to
that one previously thrown in.

=Batting=—cotton or wool prepared in sheets for quilting or interlining.
See Padding.

=Batts=—laced low shoes; term obsolete.

=Batwing=—a shaped tie for wear with high-banded folded collars.

=Baudekin=—a silk and gold fabric of the middle ages.

=Baum wolle=—German for “vegetable wool” or, in plain English, cotton.
Fonetically used by irreverent salesmen in cheap clothing establishments
and by knowing customers in the sense of “bum wool”.

=Baxter street=—a street in New York city once famous for its small
Hebrew clothing shops and their rather peremptory ways of inducing
customers to step inside and purchase; a synonym for cheap clothing and
disreputable methods.

=Bay rum=—an aromatic toilet water on which the barber makes a corking
profit.

=Bayadere=—weaving term for stripes running across the fabric from side
to side.

=Beach robe=—a sort of dressing gown for wear over bathing clothes,
constructed of light material, usually like an ulster overcoat in style.

=Beachman=—a person on the coast of Africa who acts as interpreter to
shipmasters and assists them in conducting trade.

=Beading=—see Heel seat wheeling; also Wheeling.

=Beam=—a horizontal cylindrical bar, in a loom, upon which warp or woven
goods are wound.

=Bear=—a large plantigrade ursoid carnivore, especially of the genus
Ursus, the pelts of which are used for driving coats, coat linings,
gloves, carriage robes, etc.

=Beard=—stubble, toughest in illness.

=Beards=—envied by men who can’t grow them; variously known as Vandyke
b., English b., hammer b., cathedral b., mouse eaten b., pique-divant
b., Methodist b., spike b., parted b.—but you’d better read Planche,
Earle, et al., or see a barber.

=Bearing cloth=—a christening robe, usually richly embroidered.

=Bear’s grease=—hair-slobber stuff.

=Bearskin=—(1) the fur headdress of the footguards of the British army;
(2) vernacular for the tall fur cap or shako worn by drum-majors for
feminin envy and conquest; (3) a shaggy woolen stuff for outer wear; (4)
a coat or robe made of the skin of a bear.

=Beating the booby=—(nautical) swinging the arms from side to side to
create a warmth by accelerating the circulation of the blood.

=Beatty cape=—a measuring and drafting device for tailors (from name of
inventor). See Measuring c.

=Beau=—a man devoted to the care and adornment of his person and to
matters of social etiquet; a dandy, a fop, a lady’s man.

=Beau monde=—the fashionable world.

=Beau peruke=—see Wig.

=Beauty sleep=—such sleep as one can get before midnight.

=Beaver=—a heavy, double-woven, smooth-faced woolen overcoating, woven
with two sets of wefts, face and back, the former of the finer wool,
fulled, napt and sheared to a high degree, producing a smooth, close,
dense surface; the back usually finisht with a loose, soft nap. The
range of quality from finest to coarsest is very great. In general,
resembling Kersey, tho less firm.

=Beaver=—a sort of flat-lying heavy silk plush used for a chapeaux and
formerly for those famous plug hats of “the good old days”.

=Beaver=—nowadays slang for any tall hat of silk or felt; less than 100
years ago a tall hat of heavy napt plush; originally any hat made of
beaver fur.

=Beaver=—a movable piece of armor, attacht to the helmet, covering the
lower part of the face.

=Beaver=—a casteroid rodent whose pelt is largely used in the
manufacture of fur garments, hats, etc.

=Beaverteen=—a heavy twilled solid color cotton fabric, a sort of
fustian, napt on the back, shorn after being dyed; used for hunting
garments.

=Bed canopy=—a drapery of mosquito netting.

=Bed pocket=—an ornamental bag or pouch for watch, handkerchief, dope,
etc., hung at the head of the bed; not in widespread use.

=Bed slippers=—ungainly things of very warm material worn by persons of
poor circulation.

=Bed socks=—for cold feet.

=Bedeck=—to cover with ornaments or adorn—oh, vanity!

=Bedford cord=—a worsted fabric with heavy rounded ribs or cords running
in the direction of the warp; a favorit cloth for riding trousers,
livery wear, etc.

=Beetling=—a mechanical process for soft-finishing certain kinds of
cotton and linen goods.

=Beige=—(1) the color of undyed, unbleacht wool; (2) a light-weight,
plain fabric of such wool; also called debeige.

=Bell=—see Flare, also Spring.

=Bell=—the side of a cap, especially of uniform style.

=Bell bottoms=—vernacular for sailor’s wide-mouthed trousers.

=Bell-mouth=—flared at the opening, as sailor’s trousers, bell-sleeves,
etc.

=Belled=—flared.

=Belled-skirt=—a flaring s.

=Bellows pocket=—an outside or patch p. made with an extension strip or
bellows-fold around sides and bottom, making such p. larger and more
capacious than the flat patch p., and especially adapted to shooting or
hunting jackets. A variety of bellows p. is made by means of an open box
plait in the center thereof, permitting stuffing.

=Bellows suit case=—a s. c. (qv) having one or both sides bellowed by
means of extendible folds for extra capacity.

=Bellows tongue=—a t. fastened to both sides of the opening in a laced
shoe and not left free as ordinary tongues.

=Belly button=—not an article of apparel.

=Belly doublet=—a d. covering the belly.

=Bellyband=—a band of woolen or silk material worn by babies.

=Belongings=—synonym for “property”, in which sense it is a survival of
old English usage; often employed as euphemism for “trousers” by the
prudishly inclined.

=Belt=—(1) a band or girdle of leather or other material, worn to
sustain trousers in place without the aid of suspenders; (2) a b. worn
with uniforms in army, navy, police and fire departments, and by various
societies, for dress, for carrying sword, club, etc.; (3) a sash or
band, more or less ornate, worn by pugilists to awe each other and mark
the line between fair and unfair punches. See Championship b.

=Belt loops=—l. or straps sewn at intervals around the waist band of
trousers, for the insertion and holding in place of a belt, the object
being to sustain the trousers without the use of suspenders.

=Bench=—(=1=) a table that journeymen tailors squat upon while working;
(=2=) a small table or stand holding a shoemaker’s tools.

=Bench-made=—a term used to describe “bespoken”, as the English call it,
or custom handmade shoes. Before the advent of machinery, when shoes
were all made by hand, the workmen sat along on benches and each workman
made a complete shoe, performing all the operations. They were,
therefore, called b-m. and the term today is used to designate handmade
or custom-made shoes as compared with factory or all-machine-made shoes.

=Bend=—leather trade term for the hinder-part of the hide, used
especially in connection with sole leather, this particular portion
being the firmest, toughest, closest-fibered part.

=Bengaline=—general term for silk and woolen fabrics with a repp or
corded effect produced by using a heavy, soft-spun woolen (or cotton)
weft closely covered in the weaving with the silk (or wool) warp threads
so as not to be exposed when finisht; also woven with wide, irregular or
knobby ribs (especially in silk).

=Benjamin=—an overcoat once fashionable in England, invented by a tailor
of that name.

=Benny=—slang for overcoat.

=Benzine=—good to eradicate grease spots. See Slob.

=Berretta=—see Biretta.

=Berlin=—trade term for fabric gloves of cotton in contradistinction to
gloves of silk, lisle or wool.

=Berlin toe=—in shoemaking one of the many names for a narrow toe.

=Bespoke=—“English” for clothes tailored to order.

=Best seller=—that which makes the most profit for the dealer and,
usually, shows the poor taste of his customers.

=Betrothal ring=—a r. that sometimes comes back.

=Betweens=—see Needle.

=Bezel=—a facet of a gem; a seal, as of a ring, fob, etc.; a flat
engraved gold seal.

=Bias=—diagonally.

=Bib=—a drizzle shield.

=Bib top=—trade term applied to overalls made with a sort of apron
partially covering the breast.

=Bicycle hose=—stout woolen or cotton stockings, knee length or longer.

=Bicycle shoe=—a high or low s., with front lacing nearly to the toe,
and with a low heel, the inner corner of which is beveled off to prevent
contact with pedaling gear.

=Bicycle stocking=—same as b. hose.

=Bicycle tights=—just t., but quite heavy.

=Bicycle trousers=—knickerbockers with re-enforced seats.

=Bifocal spectacles=—s. the lenses of which have a smaller lense
adhering to the larger, permitting different ranges of vision. Compare
Compound s.

=Bifurcated=—divided from a point into two divisions—trousers, for
instance.

=Bilbo=—an old term for a flexible kind of cutlas from Bilboa, where the
best Spanish sword blades were made.

=Bilboes=—bolts and shackles used by the Spanish to confine the legs of
prisoners.

=Biled rag=—see Boiled shirt.

=Bill=—generally an unwelcome reminder of a thoughtlessly incurred
obligation.

=Bill book=—a wallet for banknotes and papers.

=Billy=—a thug’s sleep producer.

=Billycock=—Briticism for a bowler or derby (hat), which see (corrupted
from William Coke, Earl of Norfolk, who introduced the hat to
popularity.) Also see Bowler.

=Billygoat whiskers=—long, spiky chinbeard.

=Binding=—any tape or braid used to secure or decorate the edges of a
garment or any article of apparel.

=Birdcage=—slang for umpire’s mask.

=Birdseye=—a small diamond-shaped pattern or effect; name given to
various clear-finisht fabrics so woven; armor.

=Biretta=—a square cap of silk or velvet with three ridges extending
outward from the center of the top or four in case of doctors of
divinity; also worn by the Anglican and Lutheran ministry, the latter
being much plainer. A smoking cap is also so-called.

=Birthday attire=—ideal for hot weather.

=Birthday suit=—public display punishable by fine.

=Bishop=—trade term for extra-length overcoats for tall men.

=Bishop’s lawn=—a variety of lawn (qv) originally made for clerical
vestments.

=Bit=—12½ cents; a shilling; two-bits, 25c.; six-bits, 75c., etc. These
expressions are still used in the southwest.

=B. L.=—overheard by bowlegged men on being measured for trousers.

=Black amber=—jet (qv).

=Black cap=—(=1=) a plain black silk cap assumed by judges of some
criminal courts when pronouncing sentence of death; (=2=) a sort of bag
covering the entire head of the condemned, rendering him semi-oblivious
of his surroundings immediately prior to strangulation.

=Blacking set=—a box or stand containing shoe polishing materials.

=Blacksnake=—a tapering, flexible whip of black leather, used by carters
and sometimes on unruly urchins; name from resemblance to a blacksnake.

=Blade=—the standing portion of a folded (shirt) collar; more
particularly the ends that meet in front.

=Blade=—the shoulder b. See B. measure.

=Blade measure=—in tailoring a measure taken from middle of back to
front of arm scye at level thereof under the arm.

=Blanket=—a sheet of loosely woven heavy woolen cloth, or
wool-and-cotton, usually with a nap, used for a bed covering, a garment,
or to cover a horse.

=Blanket=—in textil designing an experimental strip or length of fabric
(usually 1 to 2 yards), made up of anywhere from 2 to 100 or more
variations of a design or designs, ranging from dark to light color
effects, changes of color being accomplisht in the loom by changing the
shuttles after every few inches of each sample. These “blankets” are
passed upon by designers and stylists to determin the particular
patterns to be adopted; often not over 4 or 5 are chosen from a large b.

=Blanks=—in button making the discs of ivory or other material not
pierced or colored.

=Blarney=—idle discourse; obsequious flattery.

=Blarney tweed=—an unusually fine grade of tweed suitings manufactured
by Mahoney Bros., a famous mill in the north of Ireland. (Mahoney
pronounced Marney.)

=Blather=—idle nonsense.

=Blazer=—a light unlined summer coat, most frequently of flannel, and in
bright parti-colors.

=Bleach=—see Bleaching.

=Bleachery=—a place where textil fabrics are bleacht, whether by
chemical processes or by exposure on a lawn.

=Bleaching=—any process of freeing textil fabrics or fibers from their
natural color; or whitening.

=Bleaching powder=—usually or largely chlorin.

=Bleacht muslin=—whitened; usually of finer weave than unbleacht or
brown m. (=Bleached.=)

=Blended=—furrier’s term for furs so arranged as to form a sort of
shaded pattern.

=Bliaus=—early spelling of blouse.

=Blind edge=—see Plain e.

=Blind eye=—a strongly workt but nearly invisible silk loop or eye used
in connection with hooks for fastening garments, preferable to more
conspicuous metal eyes or catches.

=Blind fly=—a placket fastening, the outer edge of which is closed
instead of open as in the ordinary trousers f.; mostly used on overcoats
and also known as box f. and French f. See Fly.

=Blind pocket=—any concealed p.; oftenest a small p. on the inside of
the waistband of the trousers—perhaps less as a protection against
footpads than one’s wife.

=Blind stitch=—to s. in such a way that the stitches don’t show.

=Bliss tweeds=—peculiar sort of t., slightly resembling whipcord, made
by Wm. Bliss & Sons, Chipping Norton, Eng., rated the finest known and
extensivly employed for fine livery and stable wear.

=Block=—see Tailor’s b.

=Block=—the general style, lines, dimensions, etc., of a hat.

=Block patterns=—tailoring term for (1) conventionalized patterns used
by tailors as a working basis, individual differences being added or
subtracted as necessary; it is claimed that as perfect fitting garments
are produced this way as by drafting separately—and many more of them
per day; (2) similar patterns used by clothing manufacturers, from which
no variations are made, the style being as per pattern, and sizes being
conventionalized—necessarily. A method of garment drafting based on the
principle that like causes produce like effects, which is to say, a
pattern having fitted one man of a given size and attitude, it would fit
any other man of identical proportions and posture; and by proper
variation, as required, would fit a man differing in some respect, thus
saving a special drafting. Block p. are in wide use at the present day
as time savers, a complete range of sizes for each style of garment
usually being carried.

=Block toes=—in shoemaking, t. made with stiffened leather, so as not to
crease.

=Blocking=—a process in hat manufacture wherein the sized cones are
given shape, the crowns and brims being carefully stretched and blocked
out.

=Blood=—a gallant.

=Blood=—the finest wool is that of full-blooded merino sheep; the terms
½-b., ⅜-b., ¼-b., etc., refer to that standard and are coarser in a
descending scale. See Wool.

=Bloody shirt=—fortunately not a washable article, but a term of
reproach reminiscent of Civil War amenities.

=Bloom=—the lustrous effect given to broadcloth, alpaca and other
fabrics by pressing.

=Bloomers=—Zouave trousers appropriated by women during the late bicycle
craze.

=Blouse=—(1) a short, loose shirt or frock, usually of linen or cotton,
with or without belt; (2) a loose jacket or body coat, of military wear;
(3) the characteristic garment of Chinamen—need a description?

=Blouse collar=—same as Prussian c.

=Blow of cotton=—a Southern phrase, employed when the pods of the cotton
plant burst; from the old English “blowth”, a blossoming.

=Blucher=—a peculiar style or pattern used in cutting the upper of a
laced shoe—having tops lapping together at the throat and not joined
together as in plain lace shoes.

=Blue=—the color supposed to exercise a gracious influence over the
budding destinies of, and to be especially becoming and appropriate to,
boy babies as, conversely, pink is for girls.

=Blue=—see Wool.

=Blue book=—broadly, a directory of les noveaux riches.

=Blue dress coat=—(=navy=) for chief petty officers, except bandmasters,
a 4-button double-breasted sack coat of dark blue cloth with 3 outside
pockets (2 lower, 1 breast) with flaps, the coat worn buttoned; for
officers’ stewards and officers’ cooks, the same except with black
buttons instead of gilt.

=Blue jackets=—navy seamen as distinguisht from the marines.

=Blue pencil=—supposed to be specially efficacious in marking down
prices for a “sale”.

=Blue undress coat=—(=navy=) for chief petty officers except
bandmasters, same as blue dress c., but of flannel or serge.

=Blue working dress=—(=navy=) see Working d.

=Bluestocking=—not an article of attire, but a Bostonprig.

=Bluff edge=—in tailoring a variety of plain e. (qv) not made by hand,
but by first sewing the edges of garment together wrong side out, then
turning and pressing flat without other finish; a cheap substitute for
felled or prickt edges (qv).

=Bluff try-on=—not a real one, just a bluff. See Dummy t. (Tailoring
term.)

=Blunderbuss=—a short fire arm with a large bore and a wide mouth.

=Blunts=—see Needle.

=Boarded calf=—see below.

=Boarding=—a term used in the leather trade, denoting a process of
making leather supple and raising the grain after shaving, dyeing, etc.,
by doubling it with the flesh side in and working the folds back and
forth by a graining board.

=Boarding officer’s uniform=—see Custom officer’s u.

=Boardwalk=—the ocean promenade at Atlantic City, where, in season, and
on Easter Sunday particularly, those who have them proceed to strut up
and down showing off their new clothes.

=Boat cloak=—a cape or mantle for use of (naval) officers in a (small)
boat.

=Boater=—British for the stiff, straight-brimmed straw hat known here as
“yacht” shape. See Straw hat.

=Boatswain’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Special full dress, Full dress,
Dress, Undress, Service dress; (=revenue cutter service=) Full dress,
Service dress. See also variations.

=Bob=—see Bob-wig and Wig.

=Bobbin=—a slender spool or reel used in the shuttle of a loom,
conveying the weft or filling.

=Bob-jerom=—a bob wig.

=Bobtailed=—short tailed—give it any application you fancy.

=Bob-wig=—a small or medium size w. of the time of George II;
specifically, minor b.-w. and major b.-w., the latter with several rows
of curls.

=Bodkin=—a needle-like instrument for piercing holes in cloth, or for
drawing tape thru hems, etc.

=Body-coat=—a dress c.; an under-c.; a close-fitting c.; a livery c.

=Body-cover=—cant for coat.

=Bogus=—counterfeit or of inferior quality, as manipulated cloth.

=Boil out=—trade term indicating the quality of a piece of goods, as
“this will boil out”, meaning if woolen, the goods will in the boiling
potash test resolve into nothing without trace of cotton or similar
non-boilable adulterant. See Boiling-o. test.

=Boiled off=—commercial term for Shantung silk, to distinguish from silk
“in the gum”.

=Boiled shirt=—inelegant for a white shirt with stiff linen bosom.

=Boiling-out test=—a means employed to determin the quality of suspected
woolen or silk fabrics, a piece of the goods being boiled in a solution
of potash, in which the wool or silk is consumed, but any cotton therein
remains. See also Acid t. and Cotton cheat.

=Bolt=—a rolled or folded quantity of goods, of various yardage,
according to the fabric or material. Cloth usually runs 40 to 60 yards
to the b.

=Bombast=—cotton or other material of soft, loose texture, employed for
padding garments; wadding.

=Bombazine=—a light, plain woven fabric of silk warp and worsted weft,
used for mourning.

=Bonbon=—general trade term for fine lisle and balbriggan underwear and
hosiery manufactured by C. & G. Bonbon et Cie, Troyes, France; also C.
Bonbon et Cie, Paris.

=Bone=—journeyman tailors’ term for a peculiar hard feeling noticeable
in the handling of certain kinds of cloths, as heavy overcoatings and
experienct especially in working the needle thru; as, “it has a bone in
it”.

=Bonnet=—a Scotch cap.

=Book muslin=—a thin, glazed, starch-filled cotton fabric, often
mechanically crinkled, used for cheap cap linings, etc.

=Boon=—the woody core of flax.

=Boot=—a leather or other foot covering differing from a shoe (qv) in
that it reaches usually to the knee or above. In England the word boot
is synonymous with our word shoe.

=Boot=—a leather or rubber-cloth flap fastened to the front or dashboard
of a carriage or coach and drawn up over the lap of the rider as a
protection against rain, etc.

=Bootblack=—an irreverent urchin who “shines” the fronts of your shoes,
but forgets the heels.

=Boot-hook=—an implement to pull boots on with.

=Boot-hose=—spatterdashes; stirrup h.

=Boot-jack=—a wooden or metal contrivance for engaging the heel of a
boot while the wearer drags himself out therefrom.

=Boot-last=—same as b.-tree.

=Boot-lick=—a flunkey; a hanger-on; one who cringes and flatters to
obtain favors.

=Boot powder=—powdered soapstone to make tight boots go on easier.

=Boot slippers=—light, soft leather feet for wear inside of rubber
boots.

=Boot-straps=—the loops sewed in the back part of boots for the purpose
of pulling them on.

=Boot stud=—a small, steel roset having prominent sharp points at right
angles to the back; used by golf players and others for surety of
footing; 8 to 12 are required for a pair of boots, affixt by screws or
cleats.

=Boot-tree=—a stretcher for shaping boots when not in use.

=Bootee=—an infant’s knit woolen foot covering.

=Bootmaker=—Briticism for what we call shoemaker.

=Boots=—a servant, usually a boy or young man, at an inn, hotel, club,
etc., who blacks boots and performs other small services for guests.

=Bosom=—the front or display part of a shirt, specifically known
according to style, shape, etc., as dress b., puff b., shield b.,
plaited b., etc.

=Botany=—trade diminutiv for the line of cloths made by the Botany
mills, Passaic, N. J. A peculiarity of these goods is that they closely
approximate fine imported goods, being woven by German workmen (mostly)
on imported German looms.

=Botch work=—bungled.

=Bottle coat=—a proprietary term for a certain style of form fitting
overcoat. (1907.)

=Bottle nest=—a leather case with 3 or 4 bottles snugly fitted; for the
spiritual refreshment of travelers.

=Bottom=—trousers seat.

=Bottom facing=—in tailoring the strip of goods turned up within or
sewed on along the inside of a garment, as of a vest or coat.

=Boucle=—an irregular curly-faced fabric, the effect being produced by
the use of a two-ply yarn in which one thread is wound around the other
and drawn to make curls or loops at uneven distances; properly a rough,
lobby, sort of “worsted cheviot”, tho frequently made with a jersey or
stockinet body.

=Boughten=—past participle of “to buy”, in which the archaic termination
is still preserved; like gotten, putten, etc., serving to distinguish
shop-bought goods from home manufactures.

=Bound-edge=—in tailoring, covered or bound with braid; for this purpose
edges of the garment itself are often left raw. See Flat b.,
Half-and-half-b., Narrow b.

=Bounder=—English slang for one who dresses in bad taste, or whose
manners, etc., are offensiv; a “cheap dude”.

=Bouquet hole=—the buttonhole in a coat lapel.

=Bourre=—a sort of silk shoddy.

=Bourette=—a woolen cloth with lumps or knobs at intervals over its
surface, an effect produced by manipulation of warp and weft yarns
before weaving.

=Bournous=—a long woolen cloak with hood, worn by men in the Orient.

=Boutonniere=—a little bunch of flowers; the principal excuse for the
lapel buttonhole.

=Bow=—that part of a pair of spectacles clasping the temple or engaging
behind the ear.

=Bow tie=—a t. tied in a bowknot.

=Bowback=—rather humped.

=Bowie knife=—a long, formidable weapon, sometimes over a foot in length
and two inches broad, worn by hunters and desperadoes in the wilder and
more unsettled parts of the Union. One kind is facetiously called
Arkansas toothpick. The term “bowie” was derived from a notorious
character, Colonel Jim Bowie.

=Bowk=—a step in the process of cotton bleaching, being boiling in weak
lye.

=Bowlegged=—parenthetical.

=Bowler=—the common English name for the derby hat, from the name of the
hatter who invented it. See also Billycock.

=Box calf=—a trademark or fancy name for boarded c. (qv).

=Box cloth=—a superior quality of thick, heavy beaver c. of close, hard
texture, fulled and milled until practically waterproof; similar to
pilot c. and in appearance midway between melton and beaver, and not
unlike kersey; also called livery c.

=Box coat=—(1) a short, loose fitting top c.; (2) a coachman’s driving
c., with or without cape.

=Box collar=—a high-banded Prussian or military (coat) c.

=Box fly=—see Blind f.

=Box-plait=—a plait flattened with the stitching midway underneath so
that there is a leaf or fold on each side of the stitching. Compare
One-way p.

=Box toe=—having a stiff piece of sole leather inserted under the upper
leather around the toe of a shoe to make it stand up as a solid
protection for the human toes.

=Box waterproof=—a coachman’s mackintosh.

=Boxing glove=—a padded leather mitten that can hurt.

=Boxy=—loose fitting.

=Boy=—the kid who is supposed to be everywhere and everything, and
generally is, except when wanted.

=Brab=—the sheaf of the young leaves of the Palmyra palm, from which
“sennit” for hats is made.

=Braces=—English for suspenders; American for suspender-harness for
correcting stoop-shoulders and other light deformities.

=Bradford system=—weaving term for worsted yarns spun by a method
carrying that name, (see textil encyclopedia) producing a harder yarn
than by the French system (qv) of spinning on mules.

=Bradford yarns=—see above. See also English y.

=Braid=—a narrow textil band or tape formed by plaiting together or
crossing diagonally and lengthwise several threads of silk, cotton,
mohair or other material, in a manner to achieve a certain width, style,
pattern or effect, known in trade as silk b., mohair b., hercules b.,
soutache b., flat b., half-and-half b., etc. Used for binding coat
edges, etc., and decorativly, as in uniforms.

=Braid combing=—wool classification term. See Wool.

=Braided edges=—see Bound e., Braiding, etc.

=Braided seam=—a s. covered with braid laid on and stitched.

=Braiding=—the process of forming tape or cord like fabrics in which
threads held longitudinally, are woven diagonally in and out of each
other.

=Braiding=—the act or operation of binding or decorating a garment with
braid.

=Brakeman’s uniform=—varies with different roads; usually a sack suit of
blue cloth, the coat being most frequently double-breasted with brass
buttons; blue cloth cap.

=Brandenburgs=—long, narrow, ornamental buttons of silk or wool on a
wooden mold, used chiefly for military overcoats; also known as olives.

=Brass=—impudent assurance.

=Brass buttons=—slang for over-gaudy uniforms, livery, etc.

=Brass knuckles=—see Knucks.

=Brassard=—(=army, navy, etc.=) (1) a band of white cloth usually about
4 in. wide, fastened around the upper part of the right sleeve, a red
Geneva cross, 3 in. in hight and width, having arms 1 in. wide, stitched
or painted upon it; (2) a similar band of black cloth or crepe worn for
mourning.

=Brave=—a swaggering fellow; a rowdyish gallant; a roystering fop.

=Bravery=—elegance of attire; finery.

=Brazilian linen=—a fiber obtained from a common South American weed,
possessing strength, fineness, flexibility and adaptability for
bleaching, dyeing, etc., expected soon to be a popular substitute for
flax in nearly all its uses.

=Breach=—see Wool.

=Break=—see Collar b.

=Break=—trade term for tender wool that breaks when stretched—a defectiv
condition caused by exposure, insufficient feeding, etc.

=Breakfast jacket=—(1) a house coat; (2) a butler’s morning coat.

=Breaking test=—in general, linen fabrics are more difficult to break
than those of cotton. The broken edge of linen shows threads that are
long and irregular, the projecting fibers being parallel and lustrous.
The broken edge of cotton cloth exhibits twisted threads, the fibers
being uniform in length and dull in appearance. Practise further enables
the operator to distinguish linen from cotton by the sound when the
fabric is torn, linen emitting a shrill, and cotton a dull, sound.
Furthermore, when a group of threads is quickly broken, the cotton
threads twist around each other, while the linen threads hang straight.

=Breast=—the front of the chest.

=Breast cord=—(=army=) a decorativ loop of cord and tassels of mohair,
of the color of the corps, department or arm of service, worn on the
front of the dress coat of enlisted men, from left shoulder to below
right arm; a variety of aigulet (qv).

=Breast of heel=—(shoemaking) the back of the heel.

=Breast pocket=—any p. inserted in or placed on the breast of a coat or
vest, whether outside or inside, tho the latter are generally so
specified.

=Breast protector=—a sort of inflated canvas-and-leather shield worn by
baseball and cricket players, fencers, etc.

=Breech=—see Wool.

=Breech cloth=—better than nothing.

=Breech clout=—same.

=Breeches=—a shaped leg-covering reaching to the knee, closing snugly at
that point with several buttons. Compare Knickerbockers. See also Riding
b.

=Breeches hooks=—used in 18th century to suspend the tight, fashionable
breeches of the times from the ceiling, the wearer mounting upon the
steps and letting himself down in the garments.

=Breeches tree=—a wooden form for keeping coachmen’s breeches in shape
while not in use.

=Breeks=—Scotch for breeches.

=Bretelles=—French for suspenders or braces.

=Bricklayer’s glove=—a sort of leather mitten to which separable heavy
leather tips are attacht by means of metal clips, the wrist having a
resilient metal clamp. More loosely, any heavy working glove.

=Bridgewater=—a variety of broadcloth once manufactured at Bridgewater,
England.

=Brigadier=—see Wig.

=Brigadier general’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White
u., Service u.; (=marine corps=) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess
dress, Undress, Field dress. Also see variants.

=Bright=—tailor’s argot for any bright technical idea or suggestion.

=Brilliant=—jeweler’s term for a diamond of the finest cutting and
quality; general slang for all diamonds and sparkling gems.

=Brilliant cutting=—the most common style of diamond cutting, consisting
of two pyramids joined at their bases, the upper one or crown being
truncated to form the table, the lower or pavilion ending in a point
called the collet. Compare Twentieth century c.

=Brilliant lisle=—highly calendered. See Lisle.

=Brilliantine=—a light, thin, plain woven and very lustrous fabric,
similar to alpaca. See Mohair.

=Brim=—the piazza part of a hat.

=Briolette=—a diamond, generally pear or drop shaped, cut with angular
or long facets.

=Britch=—same as breach—a wool classification term. See Wool.

=British=—trade term for unbleacht cotton hose.

=Broad bound=—same as flat b. Compare Narrow b. and Half-and-half b.

=Broad goods=—cloth wider than 29 in.

=Broad silks=—trade term for woven silk fabrics for dress and lining
purposes.

=Broadcloth=—for men’s wear, a high grade woolen cloth woven of the
finest of felting wool, usually first dyed in the raw; the woven fabric
is fulled to a considerable degree and slightly napt and sheared, then
steamed, calendered and prest to add luster, the better grades being
made with a twilled back. Broadcloth for women’s wear is a lighter
fabric and not so costly. Name originally used in contradistinction to
Narrow cloth.

=Broadfalls=—trade name for front fall trousers in which the front flap
or fall extends from side to side or nearly to the pockets. See Fall
bearer. Compare Narrow f.

=Broadtail=—apologetic term for the fur of the unborn lamb of the black
Persian sheep of Russia; distinguisht from Persian lamb (qv) by the
degree of mottling or moire effect of the rich black surface; also
called baby lamb.

=Brocade=—a rich fabric of silk, cotton or wool (or combinations
thereof, sometimes intermixt with tinsel) having a pattern in slight
relief, produced by raising the threads of the warp or of the weft in
the loom; the patterns are mostly floral.

=Broche=—a term signifying stitcht or embroidered, applied to fabrics
worn with a raised design; having such appearance; a sort of brocade.

=Brodekin=—a buskin or high boot (obsolete).

=Brogan=—a coarse, heavy shoe fastened by side flaps buckled or laced
over a short tongue or instep-piece; forerunner of the modern Blucher
shoe (qv).

=Brogue=—(1) a rude shoe of untanned hide, (originally with the hair
outside) tied with thongs, worn formerly in Ireland and the Scotch
highlands. See Brogan. (2) Among seamen, coarse sandals made of green
hide.

=Brogues=—trousers (obsolete).

=Broken twill=—one of the technical names for herringbone weave.

=Brooch=—an ornamental article of jewelry fastened by means of a hinged
pin; a shawl-clasp.

=Broom brush=—upper class tradesmen’s term for whisk broom.

=Brotus=—the heaping up of a measure; what is thrown in to make sure of
good weight. Used in Charleston, South Carolina, and exactly equivalent
to the Gumbo-French word lagniappe of New Orleans.

=Brown=—unbleacht.

=Brown=—see Wool.

=Brown holland=—plain, wide linen cloth, but slightly thickened; used
for dusters, summer clothing, etc.

=Brown muslin=—just as it leaves the looms; not bleacht; usually woven
coarser than that intended to be bleacht.

=Brownies=—diminutiv apron overalls for little tads of 3 years up.

=Brummagem=—sham jewelry as originally made in Burmingham, Eng. See
Attleborough.

=Brunswick=—union or part wool cassimere.

=Brush length=—trade term for narrow width haircloth.

=Brushing=—a polishing or finishing process in shoemaking, rapidly
revolving brushes made of bristles or soft pieces of cloth being used to
polish and brush up the shoe as a final finishing operation.

=Brushing machine=—(1) an apparatus for laying the nap on cloths, hats,
etc.; (2) an apparatus for dusting hats, shoes, etc.

=Bryks=—breeches (obsolete).

=Buck=—a dandy.

=Buckeen=—Irish dude.

=Bucket tops=—top boots. See French falls.

=Buckle=—a fastening device, in clothing used specially for tightening
the waist of trousers, waistcoats, etc.

=Buckler=—cant term for collar.

=Bucko=—a dandy; corruption of “buck”.

=Buckram=—a coarse, heavy, plain-woven linen or cotton material sized
with glue, used for stiffening, as in coat fronts.

=Buckskin=—a sort of doeskin or kersey, but stouter and with bolder,
clearer twill, chiefly used for riding breeches, livery wear, etc.

=Buckskin=—(1) soft sheepskin; (2 pl) breeches or trousers made of b.

=Buckskin=—proprietary name for an improved sort of gum tissue for hems,
seams, etc.

=Bucktails=—a name given to the 13th Pennsylvania Reserves (also known
as 1st Pennsylvania Rifles and Kane Rifles, from one of the commanders)
famous thruout the Civil War for their rare fighting qualities and from
the habit of the men of wearing a bucktail in their hats, which a Grand
Army post of the survivors perpetuates.

=Buff clothes=—none at all.

=Buff coat=—a jerkin or doublet of leather (?) worn by certain colonial
troopers of 17th century.

=Buffalo=—see B. robe.

=Buffalo cloth=—a shaggy fabric woven in imitation of b. fur.

=Buffalo horn=—trade term for buttons made of horn, bone, etc., in
contradistinction to imitations thereof, distinguished by greater
clearness and irregular markings of color.

=Buffalo robe=—a rug or covering made of the hide with the hair on. More
commonly called “buffalo”.

=Bugazeen=—an old term for calico.

=Bugs of Egypt=—a style of waistcoat buttons popular in the early part
of the last century; probably in imitation of scarabeii.

=Bull muck=—in yarn spinning an expression meaning careless, slovenly
making of unclean, tangled and otherwise imperfect “tops”. (British.)

=Bulldog golf cap=—a large g. c., setting well back on the head, with a
visor dependent almost vertically.

=Bulldog toe=—a very heavy broad toe; a shoe style that was very popular
some years ago and still obtains.

=Bullet-proof cloth=—a fabric (recently invented by a German priest) of
mysterious composition, quite thick and heavy, having the property of
stopping shot and bullets fired at it; various other similar fabrics
have since been invented.

=Bull’s-wool-and-oakum=—salesmen’s slang term for very coarse clothing
fabrics of inferior quality.

=Bullion=—a slender barrel-shaped ornament of gold or silver wire or
thread in coils, groupt to form tassels, as for chapeaux, etc.

=Bullion fringe=—an ornamental fringe of heavy twisted cords covered
with gold or silver threads, used for uniforms, regalia, etc.

=Bumbershoot=—vulgar for umbrella.

=Bumpers=—metal corners used on trunks; sole leather corners on hand
luggage.

=Bumpkin=—an awkward, provincial dude.

=Bunching=—Briticism expressing a uniformity of appearance permitting
two or more pieces of the same fabric to be sold as same shade or
effect. Handspun and hand woven homespuns, for instance, cannot be
buncht because of unevenness, but by the use of mill-spun yarn b.
becomes possible.

=Bung=—cant term for a purse or pocket.

=Bunion=—in shoemaking, a specially comfortable shape of shoe, usually
quite plain without tips, for tender feet with enlarged joints, etc.

=Bunk=—a sleeping berth.

=Bunting=—a light-weight, plain woven woolen fabric of loose
construction; used for flags, and in a limited manner in men’s wear.

=Burberry cheviot=—a variety of wool c., twill woven in fancy patterns,
used as a suiting.

=Burberry cloth=—a medium to light-weight waterproof fabric, of
mercerized cotton warp and weft, with a fine round cord like repps,
employed for automobile garments, raincoats, etc. A lighter weight
fabric of the same class is known as Roseberry c.

=Bureau trunk=—a t. opening on a diagonal line, setting flat against the
wall, and composed of tray-compartments in tiers, suggesting a bureau
when opened.

=Burgonette=—an iron helmet or cap with neckpieces worn by French
pikemen of 16th century.

=Burlaps=—a sort of gunny sacking.

=Burning test=—burnt ends of linen threads after the flame is
extinguisht appear smooth and compact, while the fibers of cotton
threads treated in the same way are spread out more or less in brush
form. Wool and silk exhibit charred knobs.

=Burnishing=—a finishing or polishing operation for completing the
heels, bottoms and edges of a shoe.

=Burnt cork=—used by minstrels to blacken the skin.

=Burring=—in wool-cleansing the mechanical process of removing burs and
other foreign substances from the fleece before the initial spinning
process. Compare Carbonizing.

=Busby=—a tall fur cap, with or without a plume, and with a bag hanging
from the top over the right side, worn by British hussars, artillerymen
and engineers.

=Bushel=—to alter, repair or remedy the fit of a garment.

=Bushel=—a tailor’s thimble.

=Bushelman=—a tailor or workman who does alteration or repair work.

=Business coat=—usually meaning a sack c.

=Business cutaway=—see Morning frock c.; English walking coat.

=Buskin=—a sort of knee length boot with leather sole and cloth leg;
worn 17th and 18th centuries.

=Bust=—properly, a glorious feminin physical development, but also used
in a limited way as expressiv of a man’s chest.

=Buster Brown=—almost as distressing as Little Lord Fauntleroyism.

=Butcher’s coat=—a long frock worn by butchers and drivers of meat
wagons; usually of stout gingham, duck, etc.

=Butcher’s linen=—a stout, coarse, white l. used for backing shirt
bosoms, etc.

=Butler’s livery=—(morning) Tuxedo or breakfast jacket, low-cut
waistcoat and trousers, white shirt, black tie, black shoes; (evening)
dress coat, low-cut waistcoat, trousers, white shirt and white tie,
black shoes. A fancy waistcoat is permissible with evening suit in clubs
and hotels.

=Butt rest=—a leather thingummy strapped across the body by lazy and
weak salmon and tarpon fishers.

=Butteker=—cant term for shop.

=Butterfly=—a shaped tie for wear with folded collars.

=Butternut=—the coarse brown homespun cloths and jeans woven prior to
and during the Civil War, colored brown with a dye from the butternut
tree.

=Button=—a device for fastening or ornamenting articles of apparel,
usually round, and designated in the trade according to composition,
shape, style, purpose, etc., as silk braid b., mohair b., lasting b.,
cloth b., hard rim b., ivory b., rubber b., composition b., bone b.,
pearl b., horn b., gilt b., etc.; flat b., cup b., ¼ round b., ½ round
b., shank b., 2 hole b., 4 hole b., uniform b., pants b., vest b., coat
b., overcoat b., etc.; all of which see.

=Button board=—a heavy brown paper or pulp b., used in filling the
shells of covered buttons.

=Button flaps=—trade term for buttoned f. over hip pockets in trousers.

=Button fly=—tailoring term meaning a placket which conceals the buttons
of the opposit side or part of the garment.

=Button machine=—a machine for making cloth covered buttons, operated by
hand power.

=Button mold=—a wooden shape to be covered with braid, cloth, etc.; also
often of metal.

=Button stand=—an allowance or addition to the right forepart of a coat
or vest for the sewing on of buttons, usually 1½ inches on
single-breasted coats and ¾ of an inch on vests.

=Button-stay=—a strip of linen canvas interplaced between cloth and
lining for the purpose of giving strength for button stress.

=Button strap=—a strip of thin leather or cloth stitcht to the inside of
shoe tops thru which, for greater strength, the buttons are sewed or
attacht by patent fasteners.

=Button thru=—said when a coat or other garment or part thereof is made
without a fly and with buttonholes cut thru from face to back, the
buttons, of course, showing—a labored explanation, but plain?

=Buttonhole=—(1) a workt aperture to receive a button and fasten a
garment; (2) a fingering place for politicians and borrowers.

=Buttonhole chisel=—a straight, thin steel tool with a wood handle, used
for punching buttonholes thru many thicknesses of material.

=Buttonhole cutter=—a device like a pair of pliers with a cutting blade
for uniformly cutting buttonholes.

=Buttonhole making=—the cut edges of the b. are first roughly overcast
by plain or loopt stitch, fastening in place at the same time a cord or
thread all around the cut opening, which is then finisht by close, even
loopt stitches. On cotton and linen goods the cording is omitted. Of
handmade buttonholes in tailoring there are several varieties, chief of
which are the flat or satin stitcht b. and the gimp or coarse b.

=Buttonhole stitch=—a regular close loopt s. used in garment making. See
B. making.

=Buttonhole twist=—a loose 8 strand, 3 cord silk thread that in working
tightens up, making a firm, solid, durable buttonhole. See also Machine
t. and Sewing silk.

=Buttonhook=—a metal device for buttoning shoes without injury to
fingernails and temper.

=Buttons=—(1) a page’s coat single-breasted, short, close fitting, with
standing collar, closing with 19 buttons, whence name; (2) the lad
himself.

=Butts=—cleaned and prepared hides, ready for tanning.

=Buyer=—the head of a department in a large store who, of course, never
knows as much as his clerks.

=Buzz-saw test=—name given to a demonstration of the comparativ
composition of various makes of shoes, including their own, by the Regal
Shoe Co., in which, usually in a show window, numbers of shoes were
sawed thru on a circular saw and the edges exposed and otherwise
explained to the spectators. The demonstration is understood to be
protected under trade mark laws.

=Byron collar=—name given to a lay-down shirt c., the fronts of which
are not creased, but broadly and softly rolled; much affected by artists
and the Bohemian gentry.

=Byron roll=—see above.

=By the candle=—in old England a mode of auction by which people were
allowed to bid during the burning of an inch of candle, the goods being
knockt down after the light had gone out to the highest bidder.


                                   C

=Caba=—a small traveling bag or valise; nearly obsolete.

=Cabasset=—a light morion or iron cap with a wide drooping brim, worn by
French infantry of 16th century.

=Cabin bag=—a hand b. or valise with straight boxy sides, opening not
from a center point, but from the sides at the roof angles, the two top
parts coming together and clamping to form a cover.

=Cable seam=—see Round s.

=Cable silk webbing=—trade term for elastic w. woven with a roundish
twill, an effect helpt by a twisted instead of flat silk thread.

=Cable yarn=—y. twisted coarsely, like a rope.

=Cachemire=—in textil designing, signifying Persian or other Oriental
patterns.

=Cachi=—a small, felt cap, in red, brown or white, surmounted with a
tassel in a contrasting color, worn by Arabs—sometimes one on top of
another or several others. See also Haik.

=Cacks=—our first baby shoes.

=Cadet=—(1) glove trade term for long fingers; (2) a shade of gray; (3)
a student at a military school; (4) something worse.

=Cadet cloth=—the standard blue-gray woolen uniform c. prescribed by the
U. S. Military and Naval Academies and by various schools and
institutions of similar character for cadet dress; the color effect is
usually a combination of indigo blue and white yarns.

=Cadet collar=—a highhanded Prussian c.: also called stand-and-fall c.

=Cadet overcoat=—an outercoat that appeared during the winter of
1907–08; both single and double-breasted, buttoning to the throat, with
a high Prussian collar. Also known as West Point o., army o., automobile
o.

=Cadet uniforms=—(=Annapolis=) for Dress—a jacket resembling that of
Special full dress (qv) of commissioned officers of the navy, except
that it is cut Eton shape, without tails, with narrow braid on collar;
dress trousers, dress cap and white gloves. Service dress—blouse
resembling that of commissioned officers, waistcoat (optional), service
trousers and dress cap. The trousers, both dress and undress, in general
the same as for commissioned officers, but cut higher in the waist and
without pockets. Working dress for drill—canvas jumper and trousers,
white hat or knit cap, as ordered, black silk neckerchief, jersey or
sweater, all, in general, corresponding to similar articles worn by
enlisted men.

=Cadet uniforms=—(=revenue cutter service=) for Full dress—a
single-breasted fly-front sack coat of dark blue cloth reaching to top
of inseam of trousers, having a standing collar, the collar edges and
side seams in back trimmed with lustrous black mohair braid, and with
grade marks, devices, etc., as prescribed. For Service dress—a similar
coat, omitting the sleeve ornaments and some of the braiding. Trousers
of dark blue cloth, cut full in the legs without bottom spring, two hip
pockets only; blue cloth waistcoat; blue cloth cap; blue cloth overcoat,
with hood; also the white u. and other garments as prescribed.

=Cadet uniforms=—(=West Point=) for Dress—a gray cloth coatee,
conforming closely to the shape of the wearer, single-breasted, with
three rows of 8 gilt ball buttons in front and 12 on the skirts in rows
of 3; standing collar with a ball button on each side, ball buttons on
cuffs, the garment trimmed and decorated with black braid. For Undress
or Fatigue—a single-breasted blouse with standing collar, fly front,
trimmed with black braid; insignia, etc., as per regulations. Trousers,
in winter, gray cloth with a black stripe 1 in. wide down the sides; in
summer, white duck; for riding, gray kersey riding trousers with brown
canvas leggings. Overcoat, gray kersey, double-breasted, with
stand-and-fall collar, 6 gilt buttons down each breast, 2 at hips and 1
on back plaits; cape of same material. Badges, stripes, insignia, etc.,
as per regulations.

=Cady=—a hat.

=Caftan=—(1) a black garment almost identical with the Anglican cassock,
worn by the Mohammedan priesthood; (2) an undercoat having long sleeves
and girdled with a sash, worn in Turkey, Arabia, Egypt, etc.

=Calendering=—a mechanical process in cotton and linen finishing,
imparting a smooth, even surface or gloss.

=Calfskin=—a fine, durable shoe leather; often shortened to calf.

=Calico=—a coarse printed cotton cloth; used in the cheapest grade of
shirts, etc.

=Callimanco=—a glossy, woolen stuff, both plain and ribbed, very
fashionable and much used up to Revolutionary times.

=Camblet=—see Camlet.

=Cambric=—(1) a fine, white linen fabric used for handkerchiefs, etc.;
(2) a fine cotton fabric in imitation of linen; (3) also a heavier
glazed cotton lining material.

=Cambric=—see Ramie.

=Camelshair=—the fine, wooly hair from the neck and back of the camel.

=Camelshair cloth=—a thick, soft, shaggy material, usually woven like
cheviot, having long hairs intersperst over its surface.

=Camisol=—(1) a kind of jacket or under-waistcoat without sleeves; (2) a
kind of straight-jacket (qv) with long sleeves which may be tied behind
the sufferer’s back.

=Camlet=—a stiff, closely woven fabric having a wavy surface, nearly
waterproof, originally worn of camels-hair (whence name) but now mostly
of Angora wool, silk and wool, or wool-and-cotton or linen; once largely
used for cloaks; best known in 17th and 18th centuries.

=Camlet yarn=—a y. made in Turkey from the long, silky hair of the
Angora goat; also called Turkish y.

=Camleteen=—a worsted camlet; an imitation camlet.

=Camletto=—see Camleteen.

=Campaign wig=—supposed to be a simplification of the pompous peruke
(which had become exceedingly arrogant in the time of William and Mary)
yet really quite a pretentious affair, tho worn for traveling and for
undress.

=Campbell stitcht=—refers to one of many processes in modern mechanical
shoemaking.

=Camphor=—bad for moths.

=Camping shoe=—see Moccasin s.

=Cancellations=—the negativing or voiding of orders given; a matter of
diplomatic difference between mills and manufacturers, et al.

=Cane=—a walking stick.

=Cannon pocket=—oh, murderous hip p.!

=Canoe carrier=—a pneumatic cushion somewhat like a life preserver to
prevent canoes shifting and chafing whilst en portage.

=Canonical inch=—the inch or so of hair, continuing down in front of the
ears, affected as whiskers by Anglican clergymen.

=Canonicals=—clergymen’s officiating clothing as prescribed by canon.

=Cantab=—a variety of thin leather used for suspender ends.

=Canteen=—a drinking flask, usually worn slung by a strap from a
shoulder.

=Canton flannel=—a stout twilled cotton cloth with a dense nap on one
side, largely used for underwear. Also made with a nap on both sides.

=Cantsloper=—a sort of mackintosh or weather-coat of Colonial days.

=Canvas=—(1) a coarse, plain-woven fabric of linen or cotton, used both
bleacht and unbleacht, for tropical clothing, yachting wear, shoes,
etc., etc.; (2) also a stiffening material, usually unbleacht, used in
tailoring. See Elastic c.

=Canvasers=—in ready-to-wear clothing manufacture workmen who baste
canvas interlinings, padding, etc., into place in the shells (of coats)
as received from the closers (qv).

=Cap=—a covering for the head, of various shapes and materials, less
formal than a hat.

=Cap=—in shoemaking, the same as tip (qv).

=Cap-a-pie=—thoroly equipt from head to foot.

=Cap device=—an insignia of rank, etc., worn in uniform caps.

=Cap-of-maintenance=—an ornamental and ceremonial c. of scarlet velvet
and ermine borne before kings of England at their coronation; also
before the mayors of some British cities on similar occasions.

=Cape=—(1) a circular covering for the shoulders; (2) the inside yoke of
a coat, formed of the lining.

=Cape Ann hat=—same as Squam h., except the crown is soft instead of
stiff.

=Cape Ann suit=—a s. of oiled or painted waterproof material worn by
fishermen, sailors, et al., consisting of a coat buttoning or clasping
close to the throat with a laid over fly, overalls and a sou’wester hat
of same material.

=Cape cap=—a c. commonly of rubber, with visor and deep apron covering
head, neck and shoulders.

=Cape coat=—an overcoat with a cape and with or without sleeves. See
also Inverness.

=Capeskin=—trade name for cape goatskin, used for gloves.

=Capote=—a hooded coat or cloak; a military overcoat.

=Captain’s uniform=—(=army=) see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress,
Service Dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress; (=marine corps=)
Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field dress;
(=revenue cutter service=) Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Social full
dress. See also variations thereof.

=Capuchin=—see next.

=Capuchon=—a hood attacht to an overcoat or ulster.

=Caracul=—Astrakhan fur (qv).

=Carat=—(1) a twenty-fourth part, used to express the fineness of
alloyed gold, as 18 c. is ¹⁸⁄₂₄ (or ¾) pure gold; 24 c. pure or
unalloyed; (2) a unit of weight for precious stones; the international
c. is 3.168 grains or 205 milligrams.

=Carbonized wool=—see below.

=Carbonizing=—a chemical process of removing (by charring) all foreign
vegetable substances, as burs, from wool fleece, preparatory to the
initial spinning processes. Compare Burring.

=Card=—short for loom-c.

=Card case=—a small leather wallet or metal c. for visiting cards.

=Card-clothing=—sheets of rubber or leather with wire bristles or teeth
used for covering the cylinders in wool-carding machinery.

=Cardigan jacket=—a close-fitting, knit ribbed woolen or worsted
body-j., with or without sleeves; a sort of collarless sweater with a
buttoned front.

=Carding=—the process of opening up the fibers of wool, flax, hemp,
silk, etc., for the purpose of cleaning them of foreign matter and
rendering the material fine and soft, preparatory to spinning into yarn.

=Carding wool=—fine fleece 2 to 4 inches long. See Clothing w.

=Carmelite=—a fine woolen stuff, usually undyed or natural color, used
mostly for women’s wear.

=Carpet bag=—an old-fashioned hand b. or valise for traveling;
reminiscent of Lincoln’s time.

=Carpet slippers=—Christmas gifts.

=Carr’s=—trade diminutiv for the fine melton cloths made by Carr, Son &
Co., London.

=Carreau=—in weaving, a small check, square or diamond-shaped effect.

=Carrot-top=—red haired.

=Carroting=—one of the initial processes in preparing hat furs for
felting—a treatment of nitric acid and quicksilver while the fur is
still on the skin.

=Carry-all=—a hunter’s pack bag.

=Carsey=—old name for kersey.

=Carton=—a pasteboard box.

=Caruso pocket=—see Raincoat p.

=Cash=—an imperativ diminutive for cash-boy or cash-girl.

=Cash=—an alleged vulgar and disreputable word for money.

=Cash-boy=—a young imp who feels that you would rather flirt with the
saleslady than catch the 5:14 train and so delays bringing back your
parcel and change.

=Cashier=—a dispenser of pay envelopes and receiver of customer’s cash.

=Cashmere=—a fine grade of wool; properly from the c. goat; used largely
for underwear.

=Cashmere=—(1) a fine twilled, soft finisht woolen fabric; used for
vestings and suitings; (2) a knitted underwear fabric, properly of c.
wool, tho as often (or oftener) of other similar wools.

=Cashmere glove=—a fabric g. of fine worsted yarn with a nap inside.

=Cashmerette=—an old-time material for fancy waistcoats.

=Casket cloth=—a light-weight c. resembling cheap grades of melton, of
wool, wool waste, cotton, etc., and used for our final overcoating.

=Casque=—a sort of helmet.

=Cassimere=—general term for a large class of woolen cloths for men’s
wear, coarse and fine, both plain and twill woven, having the pattern
produced in the loom, and usually appearing in distinct checks, plaids
and stripes; the cloth is never napt; sometimes made with worsted warp
and woolen weft. Name a variant of Cashmere.

=Cassinette=—an inferior coarse fabric, similar to union cassimere (qv),
used in the cheaper grades of men’s clothing.

=Cassock=—(1) a plain, close-fitting garment, reaching to the feet, the
distinctiv dress of clerics indoors and out, worn with and without
vestments, often with a sash; the color is black for priests, purple for
bishops, red for cardinals, the pope alone wears white; (2) a similar
garment worn by Anglican clergy when officiating; (3) a short, loose
jacket worn under the Geneva gown by Presbyterian ministers; (4) a
military cloak; (5) a name some times given to the single-breasted
clerical frock coat with closed-throat military collar.

=Cassock bands=—see Bands (2).

=Cassock vest=—a clerical waistcoat without opening in front, closing on
the side, and with a short military collar.

=Cast knitting=—a variety of k. in which the needles are thrust from the
inside while the yarn is held on the outside of the fabric or article
that is being made.

=Cast-off=—wornout or discarded clothes we don’t want.

=Cast-off buckle=—a suspender b. that permits a separation of the end
strap from the webbing as a toilet convenience for lazy persons.

=Castor=—see C. beaver.

=Castor=—a shade of gray.

=Castor=—(1) a general term for light-weight gloves of any leather from
which the grain is removed, commonly gray or drab in color; (2) one of
several terms for ooze kid.

=Castor beaver=—a heavy milled, face finisht, all-wool cloth, a little
lighter in weight than ordinary beaver (qv); used for overcoats, etc.

=Castor Francaise=—a long-haired felt used by hatters; and hats of same.

=Cat=—a night prowling animal whose hide, after its ninth death, becomes
sealskin, etc.

=Cat o’ nine tails=—a multi-thonged whip or scourge sometimes worn out
on bad boys, et al.

=Catalog=—a book or pamphlet listing wares of sale; in widest use as a
publication for the special benefit of mail order customers.

=Catcher’s mask=—a guard for the face; constructed of wire and leather,
worn as a protection against pitched and foul balls, the batter’s bat,
etc.

=Catcher’s mitten=—a very large, heavily padded leather glove or pillow
on which the pitcht balls are received by the catcher, so contrived as
to hold the ball and save a home run.

=Catching mitt=—see Catcher’s gloves and C. mitten.

=Cats-and-dogs=—trade term for a miscellaneous collection of merchandise
of more or less doubtful value.

=Cathedral beard=—a broad, spreading, square cut b., “so called because
men of the church did wear it”.

=Cavalier cape=—familiar term for evening dress cloak and by extension
for the Inverness overcoat.

=Cavalry uniform=—see Full dress, Dress u., Service u., Fatigue u., et
var.

=Cellular cloth=—broadly, any c. more or less loosely woven,
characterized by cell-like meshes or openness.

=Celluloid=—a chemical substance consisting largely of cellulose and
camphor, manufactured in imitation of linen, amber, shell, ivory, etc.

=Celluloid collars=—c. that need never go to a laundry and should never
go near to a fire; c. cuffs ditto; worn largely by workingmen who could
just as well do without them.

=Cemented seam=—trade term used in reference to s. fastened together by
a strip of rubber tissue or cement or other adhesiv, usually lapt, and
commonly stitcht, tho the stitching is sometimes omitted. Mostly used on
old-style mackintoshes.

=Cerement=—a garment, covering or wrapping for the dead; grave clothes.

=Ceremonial=—formal (as dress).

=Cerevis=—a small cylindrical cap, usually with a society, or corps
monogram, worn by students in German universities.

=C. G.=—trade diminutiv for the balbriggan and lisle thread hosiery and
underwear manufactured by C. & G. Bonbon et Cie., Troyes, France.

=Chain=—warp.

=Chain hole=—a vertical buttonhole in a waistcoat, from which the
watchchain is suspended.

=Chain stitch=—an ornamental s. formed by carrying the thread thru
repeated slip loops, easily pulled out by pulling the underthread;
sometimes used for basting.

=Chain-weave serge=—trade term for s., so woven as to resemble chains
laying close together diagonally, clear finisht and piece dyed (qv);
also called double corkscrew.

=Chain-weave worsted=—see C.-w. serge.

=Chalk=—loosely, any substance used by tailors for drafting patterns and
marking cloth.

=Chalk stripes=—trade term for fabrics having white stripes on a dark
ground, as serges, unfinishts, etc.

=Chambray=—a fine quality of gingham, plain colored, woven of very fine
count cotton yarns, the warp and weft usually of different colors, with
a linen finish.

=Chamois=—a soft, pliable leather, originally prepared from the skin of
the c. goat, used for gloves, garment interlining, chest protectors,
pockets, window cleaning, etc.

=Chamois fiber=—name given to a stout crinkled paper fabric used as an
interlining, for chest protectors, etc.

=Chamois pocket=—a p. in trousers, waistcoat or other garment, chamois
lined.

=Championship belt=—usually a most gorgeous affair competed for by
pugilists.

=Change pocket=—a small p. for small change, usually placed on the right
side of coats, either above or within the regular p. on that side, and
occasionally, in overcoats, on the inside facing of the left side; also
called ticket p.

=Changeant=—changeable; an effect in weaving obtained by employing both
warp and weft, composed of two strands of different colors, the
changeable colors being an effect of light-play, according as viewed.

=Changey-for-changey=—(nautical) an expression used in relation to a
“swap”, denoting that each party is satisfied with his bargain.

=Channel=—in shoemaking, the groove or gutter along the edges of the
sole wherein are the stitches holding sole and other parts together.

=Chap money=—English provincialism for a rebate allowed by a dealer for
spot cash payment.

=Chaparejos=—strong leather breeches or overalls to protect the legs
from trees and brush while riding; worn by cowboys on the plains and by
them commonly abbreviated to “chaps”.

=Chaparro=—see Chaparejos.

=Chape=—(1) the metal tip of a scabbard; (2) a catch or loop.

=Chapeau=—a hat; especially, a plumed or military hat.

=Chapeau=—(=navy=) a rigid cockt hat of black silk beaver, 16 to 18 in.
from peak to peak, 5–5½ in. high on left fan, 4–4½ in. high on right
fan. For the admiral of the navy, to have in the fold at each end a
tassel of 5 gold bullions underlaid by 5 blue bullions; a strip of 2 in.
gold lace laid on flat around the outer rims of the fans, passing under
the peaks; on the right fan a 3¾ in. black silk cockade with a loop of
1½ in. gold lace over it, fastened with a large size navy button, the
ends of the loop being carried over the rim; for rear admirals, the same
but with a 1½ in. strip of gold lace around the outer rims; for other
commissioned officers except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners,
chief carpenters and chief sailmakers, the same, but with a strip of
black silk 2½ in. wide around the rims, in lieu of gold lace, laid on
half-and-half; (=Army=) similar, according to pattern in offices of
quartermaster general; to be worn with the peak front turned slightly to
the left, showing the gilt ornaments upon the right side; (=Marine
corps=) of black silk plush, curved pattern, same as prescribed for
general officers of the army, except that both sides shall be 5 in.
high, with an embroidered gold lace ornament on the right side
surmounted with a marine corps cap ornament and a large marine corps
button, a gold wire tassel in front and rear peak, and a plume of canary
colored cock feathers for major general commandant; for all staff
officers (optional) the same, except that the plume is of red cock
feathers. This chapeau may be worn with special full dress and full
dress in place of cap for indoor occasions when desired; never to be
worn when mounted. (=Revenue cutter service=) a rigid or folding chapeau
of black silk beaver, of same dimensions as prescribed for the navy, the
rims bound with black silk lace 2½ in. wide, showing half-and-half; on
the right fan a black silk cockade 3¾ in., over which is a strip of gold
lace fastened with a revenue service button, a tassel of 3 gold and 3
blue bullions in each peak.

=Chapeau bras=—a soft, three-cornered dress hat that can be folded and
carried under the arm, worn commonly in the 18th century and still by
officers in the U. S. navy.

=Chapeau de poil=—a beaver or felt hat.

=Chapka=—(Bohemian) a sort of mortarboard hat, part of the Lanciers
uniform.

=Chaplain’s evening dress coat=—(=navy=) see Evening d. c.

=Chaplain’s evening dress waistcoat=—(=navy=) see Evening d. w.

=Chaplain’s full dress coat=—(=army=) a single-breasted frock c. of
black cloth with standing collar, fastening with 9 black silk buttons;
no ornaments.

=Chaplain’s frock coat=—(=navy=) a single-breasted f. c. of dark blue
cloth, buttoning to the neck, with one row of 7 flat black silk buttons
and plain standing collar on which is embroidered in silver a Latin
cross, and on the sleeves rows of black braid according to rank.

=Chaplain’s hat=—(=army=) with full dress and dress uniforms, a black
felt h., similar to the service h. (qv) with a cord of gold bullion and
black silk intermixt.

=Chaplain’s mess jacket=—(=navy=) see Mess j.

=Chaplain’s undress waistcoat=—(=navy=) see Undress w.

=Chaplain’s vestments=—(=army and navy=) while conducting services the
chaplain may wear the v. of the church to which he belongs.

=Chaplain’s white service coat=—(=navy=) same as w. s. c. (qv), but with
white buttons.

=Chaplet=—a wreath or garland for the head—worn only in pictures from
mythology; perhaps, by certain of the illuminati of the very ancient
past; and by the near-actors in certain frivolous and unclassifiable
theatrical productions of latter times.

=Chapman=—a peddler of trifles or cheap small wares.

=Chappau=—a sort of coat or tunic of silk or woolen cloth worn by the
Uzbek Tartars, beneath an overgarment of woolen cloth.

=Chaps=—see Chaparejos.

=Character wig=—(theatrical) any w. designed to help delinat the
character portrayed.

=Charge account=—a soft snap for papa’s boy.

=Charges prepaid=—supposed to be an inducement for orders; but analysis
of inventory statements shows that the buyer always stands it.

=Chasuble=—a sleeveless mantle falling low in front and behind, with a
cross on the back; worn by Latin, Greek and Anglican priests; the
principal vestment regarded as strictly sacerdotal or sacrificial.

=Chauffeur’s livery=—see Appendix.

=Chauffeur’s sack coat=—same as Norfolk jacket, but with turned down
collar and military closed neck.

=Chauffeur’s suit=—any s. designed for service wear of the automobile
operator.

=Chausse=—the early name for drawers.

=Cheap tailor=—one who makes, or claims to make, clothes to order at
prices as low as and often much lower than readymade garments may be
obtained for. Garments made by such tailors are usually made under
practically the same conditions as readymade—by machinery and by
operators instead of by journeymen tailors and hand work; the main
difference being that each order is cut separately instead of several
garments being cut at one time as in readymade. Unless the “cheap
tailor” has facilities for obtaining his cloths and other materials
direct from the mills, as have readymaders, and has a large business to
take care of such necessarily large purchases, there are no other
advantages, as he must then buy thru jobbers, in small lots at higher
prices. Because of much fraud and deceit in connection with cheap
tailoring in the past, the “cheap tailor” is not always highly regarded,
tho there are many inexpensiv tailors enjoying the requisit facilities,
who have built-up large businesses by fair and square dealing.

=Check—in= weaving a design produced by different colors crossing at
right angles forming small squares.

=Check kersey=—one of the old names for k.

=Cheeks=—an old sobriquet for a marine, derived from a rough pun on his
uniform in the olden days.

=Cheese=—familiar term for c. press block (qv).

=Cheese cloth=—a thin, sleezy, loosely woven, unbleacht or bleacht
cotton fabric, used chiefly (in men’s wear) as a covering for padding
and garment interlining; also, shellackt, to give body to silk hats and
the like.

=Cheese press block=—a half circular segment of seasoned hardwood, about
3 × 12 × 18 inches, used by tailors for pressing seams, lapels, edges,
etc.

=Chest=—the part of the body enclosed by the ribs and the breastbone.

=Chest=—a wooden box for holding clothes and other personal property.

=Chest measure=—a standard of sizing by which readymade clothes, shirts,
etc., are bought and sold.

=Chest protector=—an undergarment of felt, wool, chamois or paper fiber,
worn under the dress shirt for extra protection in cold weather;
vulgarly “liver pad”.

=Chester=—colloquial English for top coat; abbreviation of Chesterfield
(?).

=Chester jacket=—a single-breasted sack coat similar to a Norfolk.

=Chesterfield=—(1) a single-breasted, fly-front overcoat, of medium
length, having a plain back with or without a center seam; (2) also a
single-breasted cutaway frock coat for stout men, usually made with 4
buttons, the top one only used.

=Chesty=—full chested; pigeon breasted.

=Cheval glass=—a long mirror, revealing the entire person, much employed
by those who think themselves good to look upon.

=Cheviot=—originally a rough, twill woven, slightly fulled fabric, with
shaggy nap, woven from the coarse strong wool of the c. sheep, whence
name; more generally any rough-finisht, twill woven fabric of strong,
coarse wool, thoroly fulled, either with rough (or open) or close finish
(long or short nap), used as suiting and overcoating.

=Cheviot shirting=—a heavy, plain or twilled, soft finisht cotton
fabric, woven of single-thread warp and weft sufficiently coarse to
produce weight, usually with loom-produced patterns such as small checks
and stripes.

=Chevreau=—(glove term) real kid, fed only by the mother, never having
browsed. Compare Chevrette.

=Chevrette=—(glove term) kid older than chevreau (qv), having eaten
other foods, as grass, etc., the skins being consequently harder and
tougher.

=Chevron=—in weaving, a pattern characterized by zigzag lines or
stripes; herringbone.

=Chevron=—(1) a device, consisting of two or more bars meeting at an
angle, worn on the sleeve by non-commissioned officers to indicate rank;
(2) an heraldic device.

=Chicken skin=—a material once actually used for gloves and fans, but
now quite unused for such purposes—not, indeed, that the creatures have
been cultivated into any greater tenderness nowadays.

=Chimere=—a gown worn by Anglican bishops.

=Chimneypot=—a tall or top hat, usually applied to those of felt.

=Chin clout=—a muffler.

=Chin latch=—a small cloth strap to fasten together the turned-up collar
of an overcoat or ulster; fastened by means of buttons and buttonholes.

=Chin lines=—whiskers.

=Chin stay=—see C. strap.

=Chin strap=—a band passing under the chin for holding on a cap or hat;
an extendible s. attacht to uniform caps, usually worn closed on the
upper side of visor, or in the case of shakos, falling loosely in front
of, but not under the chin.

=Chin tuft=—a wee beard; a goatee or imperial.

=China silk=—a light, thin, plain woven silk fabric; pongee.

=Chinchilla=—general term for heavy, double-woven woolen fabrics, having
a long-napt surface of wooly lobs (or tufted nap) of various forms and
effects, but not in imitation of chinchilla fur, as is generally
supposed. See Petersham.

=Chinchilla=—an animal of the weazel family, found in Peru and Bolivia,
prized for its soft, gray, silky fur.

=Chinchilla machine=—a machine for forming the peculiar knobby nap of
chinchilla cloth.

=Chine=—an effect in weaving produced by employing warp threads that
have been printed and groupt in such manner as to form more or less
distinct patterns when woven; most frequently seen in silks, such as
taffetas.

=Chinese grass=—see Ramie.

=Chink=—the slant-eyed dopefiend who declares your shirts are not ready
because you didn’t call for them yesterday.

=Chinkers=—cant for handcuffs united by a chain.

=Chip=—trade term for tiny diamond specks used in cheap jewelry. See
Rose cutting.

=Chipping Norton=—see Bliss tweeds.

=Chirothecae=—a form of glove worn by the ancient Romans, fingerless and
resembling the modern mitten. See Digitalia.

=Chiton=—a sort of short, sleeveless tunic, worn by the ancient Greeks.

=Chlamys=—a variety of himation (qv).

=Chlorine=—Cl_{2}; one of the most activ bleaching agents.

=Chloroform=—CHCl_(3); a good agent for the removal of grease spots from
clothing.

=Choice=—see Wool.

=Choiling=—cutlery term for the operation of filing the little nick in a
blade just between the cutting edge and the tang.

=Choir vestments=—see Cassock, Cotta, Surplice, etc.

=Choked bellows=—an underlaying accordion plait around a pocket (usually
of the patcht variety) for purposes of increast capacity. See Bellows
pocket.

=Choker=—any tall (and uncomfortable) shirt collar, especially a plain
standing collar.

=Chopper=—in tailoring establishments a man who lays the paper patterns
made by the “cutter” on to the cloth, marks same, and “chops” or cuts
the cloth. Compare Cutter.

=Chopper=—a heavy leather working glove or mitten.

=Chorus shirt=—see Ballet s.

=Chrome kid=—goat skins tanned and finisht by the salts of aluminum or
chromic acid method. See Vici k.

=Chuddah=—(1) a fine wool shawl made in India; (2) also the wool of
which it is made.

=Church-of-England hat=—a low, round-crowned, felt h. with plain, flat
brim, sometimes (erroneously) called shovel h. (qv).

=Cigar case=—a leather or metal pocket c. for cigars.

=Cigar magazine=—(1) same as c. case; also (2) a humidor.

=Cigaret case=—a metal pocket c. for coffin nails.

=Cimeter=—see Scimitar.

=Cinch=—a belt.

=Cincture=—a clerical girdle of serge or other stuff with silk fringed
ends.

=Circular cape=—any c. the outer edges of which, spread flat, conform to
the shape of a circle, and generally understood to mean without shaping
at the shoulders.

=Civet=—the glandular secretion of the civet cat, most repulsiv and
disgusting in its original state, but, properly compounded, practically
indispensable in the imitation of certain floral perfumes.

=Civilian dress=—distinguishes our everydayness from army and navy
magnificence.

=Clad=—clothed.

=Clan tartan=—any and all of the plaids of the various highland clans of
Scotland.

=Claque=—a sort of semi-circle of felt, which it was the fashion in
France, in the early part of the last century, to carry under the arm
instead of wearing it on the head.

=Clasp=—a ball-and-socket glove fastener. See Snaps.

=Class chevron=—(=navy=) angled stripes of scarlet cloth forming part of
the rating badge (qv) indicating rank of the wearer.

=Classy=—a term often used by misfit shops and cheap “gents’ furnishers”
as implying some aristocratic distinction.

=Clatty=—dishevelled; untidy.

=Claudent=—a readymade scarf or plastron tied like an ascot or puff, but
without fullness and flat as a pancake.

=Clawhammer=—see Evening dress.

=Clay=—a name given to serges, worsteds and diagonals woven after the
process of J. & B. Clay, of Huddersfield, England.

=Clay worsted=—see above and Worsted.

=Clean=—well made; of good quality, texture, lines, styles, workmanship,
etc.

=Clear finish=—trade term for worsted cloths from which all nap or fuzz
has been removed, as serge, “hard finish” worsteds, etc.

=Clearing sale=—the effort made by one merchant to show how much cheaper
he is than the other fellow.

=Clerical cape overcoat=—similar to an Inverness o., the cape buttoning
in front.

=Clerical collar=—(1) a coat and waistcoat c., straight standing, not
turned over, similar to that known as military c. (qv); on the
waistcoat, however, the clerical c. buttons behind and has a continuous
front; (2) a separable linen shirt c. closed in front and buttoning
behind, the Anglican c. being single and the Roman double or folded.

=Clerical frock coat=—a single-breasted frock c. with straight skirts
(not cutaway), buttoned from waist line to throat, usually with 7
buttons, with military collar.

=Clerical full dress=—as worn by Anglican clergymen, consists of a sort
of single-breasted cutaway frock coat without revers, buttoning to the
throat, with a military collar; a cassock waistcoat and plain trousers.

=Clerical girdle=—a sort of cincture of black or white worsted or silk
rope with tasseled ends.

=Clerical sack coat=—a square-cornered single-breasted s. c., without
revers, usually with 6 buttons, closing to the throat, with military
collar.

=Clerical shirt=—a plain white linen s. without a made bosom, but with a
simple placket.

=Clerical shirt collar=—see Clerical c. (2).

=Clericals=—short, close-cropt side whiskers.

=Clerk=—an absolutely impeccable individual.

=Cleveland hat=—a white or light-colored felt h., shaped like the silk
top h., popular during the first Cleveland administration.

=Clip=—a season’s “crop” of wool; a shearing. See Wool c.

=Clips=—waste bits of cloth and other materials, saved and sold to
converters.

=Cloak=—a loose outergarment without sleeves; a cape.

=Cloak room=—a shuffling place for umbrellas, hats, overcoats and
rubbers.

=Cloaking=—any fabric suitable for men’s or women’s cloaks or overcoats,
such as kersey, broadcloths, beaver, vicuna, chinchilla, etc.

=Clock=—narrow stem of silk embroidery on either side of a stocking,
extending beyond the ankle and ending in a spear or crowsfoot; also a
similar effect in drawn work.

=Clockmutch=—a night cap, from the Dutch clapmuts; a form of headdress
which, tho still worn in Holland, is rarely seen in America.

=Clodhopper=—an awkward, clumsy fellow.

=Clodhoppers=—(1)extra large, ill-fitting shoes; (2) big feet.

=Clog=—(1) a dancing shoe; (2) an overshoe.

=Clogs=—wooden soles, usually iron shod, with leather straps for
fastening.

=Close edge=—see Scotch e.

=Close-fitting=—said of a coat or other garment made tight or snug
fitting, or shaped closely to the body.

=Close-roll=—trade term for umbrellas constructed on metal rods and
covered with fine silk or other material that will roll closely into
small compass. See Tight r.

=Closed front=—see Meeting folder.

=Closed gauntlet=—a mailed protectiv covering for the hand and wrist
with immovable fingers, with the exception of one joint, so that in the
shock of meeting an adversary, the weapon of the wearer, held fast in
the fixt fingers, might not be dropt out of the hand—a device which, in
the tournaments of those days, was considered as giving an unfair
advantage over one’s adversary, and was usually proscribed.

=Closed shop=—a s. where a workman who refuses to join a labor union
cannot find employment.

=Closed trousers=—tailors’ term for t. made for customers who stand with
their legs close together, the inseam being shorter than is required for
open t., which see.

=Closers=—in ready-to-wear clothing manufacture, operators who put
together the sides, back and front seams of a coat, making the outer
shell only.

=Closing measure=—in tailoring a measure taken over the shoulder from
front to rear of sleeve head at under-level of arm scye. Compare Scye m.

=Cloth=—in the woolens trade, a word used generally, to distinguish
close-woven, fulled and milled or napt fabrics made of woolen yarn from
those made of worsted yarns in various fancy weaves and not compacted
but given various finishes, as “clear”, “unfinisht”, etc.

=Cloth beam=—in a loom a roller or b. on which the woven fabric is
wound.

=Cloth board=—a piece of wood on which bolts of woolens, linings,
shirtings, etc., are wound into bolts; also made of heavy paper pulp b.,
and wood-and-paper.

=Cloth brush=—name commonly given to a b. of bristles set in a wooden
back, to distinguish from whisk broom, altho the latter is often so
called.

=Cloth button=—a b. made on a mold and covered with cloth matching the
garment.

=Cloth fair=—an English custom of the 17th century, annual exhibits and
sales being held by the weavers and factors.

=Cloth knife=—a very long tapering blade for cutting many layers of
material at a time, working in a groove in the cutting table.

=Cloth-lapper=—one who folds cloth in the piece, generally by means of
machinery.

=Cloth of gold=—generally heavy brocaded silk textures, inwrought with
gold threads. More precise information can be had with research—you
might commence with Deuteronomy xxxix. 3, and work up to the present.

=Cloth of iron=—see Iron c.

=Cloth-stitch=—a close s., like the weave of cloth.

=Cloth tester=—a machine for testing, from a small sample, the tensil
strength of fabrics.

=Cloth (the)=—the clergy.

=Cloth-teazeler=—a machine for raising a nop on cloth by teazeling.

=Clothes=—consult Baker’s “Dictionary of Men’s Wear”.

=Clothes hamper=—a basket for soiled clothes.

=Clothes line=—a rope on which washing is hung out to dry.

=Clothes press=—a closet for clothes; a wardrobe.

=Clothes tongs=—an implement for grappling cloths or garments and
removing them from a dying vat.

=Clothier=—(1) one who sells ready-to-wear clothing—distinguisht from
the tailor in that he usually gets his money in advance; (2) a
manufacturer of clothes.

=Clothing=—garments and apparel, considered as a whole.

=Clothing wool=—fine fleece 2 to 4 inches long, intended for woolen or
carded yarn, usually graded as picklock, XXX, XX, X, No. 1 and No. 2,
the first being the finest, the last the coarsest; the name of locality
where obtained is also prefixt. See Wool. Compare Combing w.

=Clouded yarn=—weft y., characterized by alternate thick and thin places
thruout its length.

=Cloudy=—trade term for goods not perfectly dyed and uneven in color.
Compare “Off color” and “Shaded”.

=Club=—a place for the idle rich to sit in the windows for the
inspection of pretty girls passing by.

=Club=—see Wig.

=Club check=—small quiet checks.

=Club coat=—see Dinner jacket.

=Club tie=—see Graduated t.

=Coaching hat=—a felt h. similar to a derby, but with a flat or square
top.

=Coachman’s box overcoat=—a double-breasted top coat, of covert, kersey
or whipcord, for wear with stable suit or undress livery.

=Coachman’s collar=—a standing shirt c. usually on a band and having
well rounded corners.

=Coachman’s frock coat=—a single-breasted skirted c. closing with six
buttons, usually matching the metalwork of the harness, large pocket
flaps at waistline without pockets, four buttons on skirt.

=Coachman’s hat=—(1) a tall felt h. having a bell crown with a flat top;
(2) a variety of Derby h. with a flattish top.

=Coachman’s livery=—Dress: body coat, breeches and boots, silk hat,
greatcoat in winter. Undress: cutaway coat, breeches, square-crown derby
or bell-crown hat, leggins, selby or top coat in winter; jacket and
trousers often substituted for the skirted coat and breeches.

=Coachman’s overcoat=—a double-breasted frock o., buttoning close to the
neck with a double row of six buttons, Prussian collar, large pocket
flaps at waistline, the skirt folds showing turned back revers or side
edges (qv).

=Coachmen’s proof=—an extra heavy waterproofing process, as applied to
raincoatings, etc., intended for severe wear.

=Coat=—an outergarment for the upper part of the body as body c. (sack,
cutaway, frock, dress, etc.), and overcoat (top coat, Chesterfield,
Newmarket, paletot, raincoat, Inverness, ulster, etc.)

=Coat case=—see Portmanteau, Suit c., etc.

=Coat front=—trade term for a built-up stiffening or shape-retaining
interlining for the fronts of coats, made of stitcht layers of
haircloth, felt and canvas.

=Coat label=—(1) a l. of cotton or linen, usually sewed within the
inside breast pocket, containing besides the tailor’s name the name of
the customer, date and number of order; (2) a woven silk l. bearing the
name and address of the maker, usually sewed inside at back of neck.

=Coat link=—a pair of buttons linkt together, or a button and a loop,
used for closing or fastening a coat, as a dress coat.

=Coat maker=—a journeyman tailor who makes coats his specialty.

=Coat money=—a tax levied by Charles I. ostensibly for clothing the
army.

=Coat of mail=—defensiv armor worn by those afraid to die.

=Coat pad=—general term for any made-up padding or wadding, as
shoulder-pads, coat fronts, etc.

=Coat shirt=—a s. open all the way down the front and put on like a c.,
whence name.

=Coat sweater=—a knitted jacket or sweater (qv) opening all the way down
the front and closing with buttons; with sleeves, but usually without
collar, much like a cardigan jacket.

=Coat-tail pocket=—see Skirt p.

=Coat-tails=—the skirts of a frock c.

=Coatee=—(1) a very short coat of 1757; (2) a cadet’s uniform coat.

=Coating=—tailoring term for all fine woolen and worsted cloths
especially suitable for dress coats, such as broadcloth, crepe,
unfinisht worsted, vicuna, refines, etc.; also applied to overcoatings.

=Coatlet=—a dummy sample showing how a coat will look when made up; a
means of showing piece goods by swatches cut and finisht much like a
coat front, the effect being enhanced by displaying a number of such
dummies in an overlapping row. (Name and system proprietary.)

=Cobble=—to patch or repair boots or shoes; used in the sense of rough
or clumsy work.

=Cobbler=—(1) a mender of boots and shoes; (2) a clumsy or indifferent
workman.

=Cobweb=—unusually thin, sheer and transparent, as c. hosiery.

=Cochineal=—bug juice; a red dye.

=Cockade=—a roset or knot of ribbon, leather, bullion, etc., worn on the
hat as a badge of service, military, diplomatic or (improperly)
domestic, etc.

=Cocking=—tailor’s term for critical inspection of finisht garments for
discovery of mistakes—derived doubtless from an affected manner of
squinting or “cocking the eye” on the part of the zealous examiner.

=Cockle=—see below.

=Cockling=—trade term for a wrinkled, puckered or shriveled effect or
apparent defect in cloths, usually the result of lack of uniformity in
warp and filling yarns, or uneven twist of either or both, or imperfect
crabbing (qv), etc., chiefly encountered in light-weight fabrics and
especially in such styles as loom-checks, mixt warp suitings, etc.

=Cockt hat=—a h. of various shapes, sometimes turned up in front only,
with one button, and also with three laps, often richly trimmed with
metal cords, buttons, laces, ribbons, etc.; see Kevenhuller. See also
Chapeau. (=Cocked= h.)

=Cocoon=—the covering or chrysalis envelop spun by the silk worm, from
which the filaments entering into the manufacture of silk are obtained.

=C. O. D.=—collect on delivery—otherwise you could have a charge
account.

=Codfish=—the airs, frills and pretensions of the new rich; affected
stylishness.

=Codfish aristocracy=—the “smart set” that furnishes the market for
readymade ties, “pants,” “vests,” and outre “fashions” generally.

=Codpiece=—a medieval ornamental article of apparel. Consult Rabelais,
Boccaccio, et al.

=Coffin cloth=—see Casket c.

=Coif=—a close undercap—centuries out of date.

=Coin case=—a sort of purse for odd change.

=Coin purse=—a small p. for “loose change.”

=Coin toe=—one of many varieties of shoe toes, rounded, and according to
width, known as half dollar t., dime t., etc.

=Cokers=—iron reinforcements for the sole and heels of the woodsoled
clogs worn by European peasants; also known as “irons”.

=Cold storage=—recommended for furs; for processes, etc., consult
scientific works.

=Coldwater shrinking=—a process of sponging or shrinking woolens by
dipping them in cold water and then suspending them on rods or lines in
the open air to dry; the London process; the opposite of steam shrunk
(qv).

=Colichemarde=—a peculiar duelling sword of the period of Louis XIV.

=Collar=—in tailoring that part of a coat or waistcoat that is folded
back around the neck. All collars are either straight (put on in a
straight line) or horseshoe (hollowed and curved), the former being the
better fitting but more difficult to make. As to shape collars are known
as notched c., shawl c., ulster c., clerical c., Prussian c., military
c., rolling c., etc., while as to material they are designated self c.,
velvet c., laid on velvet c., inlaid c., etc. All of which see

=Collar=—a detacht or attacht linen neckpiece. See Shirt c.

=Collar-ascot=—a neglige c. and cravat combined, but separable.
(Proprietary term.)

=Collar bag=—a b. of cloth or leather, with a draw-string, for carrying
collars when traveling.

=Collar box=—a container for collars, usually of leather.

=Collar break=—tailoring term for the creased line of a lapel.

=Collar button=—an indispensable instrument of iniquitous proclivities.

=Collar city (the)=—Troy, N. Y.

=Collar insignia=—(=army=) see Insignia of rank.

=Collar spring=—a steel s. device worn under coat collars for the
purpose of keeping the coat front together without buttoning and for the
further purposes of spoiling the coat and to display the wearer’s
vulgarity.

=Collar stand=—tailoring term for that part of a coat c. where sewed to
the coat proper and extending to the crease or turnover point; usually
1⅛ to 1¾ inches in height.

=Collar velvet=—a very fine and expensive grade of silk v. made
especially for the tailoring trade.

=Collarette=—see Vestlet.

=Collars-and-cuffs=—nickname for the late Duke of Clarence, son of King
Edward VII., arising from his penchant for extremely high collars and
protrusive cuffs.

=College cap=—an adhesive diminutive c. of about the size of a small
saucer.

=College colors=—flamboyance. See Appendix.

=College hat=—a flat topt soft felt h. of the telescope variety, usually
with band in college colors, commonly worn with brim blazed up or banged
down in front.

=Collet=—a shoulder cape or collar.

=Collet=—the neck or stem of a button.

=Collet point=—the sharp point or base of a brilliant cut diamond.

=Cologne=—see Eau de c.

=Colonel’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service
u.; (=marine corps=) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress,
Undress, Field dress. Also variations.

=Color=—briefly, any hue, as distinguisht from white. See Encyclopedia.

=Color doctor=—in calico printing, a blade for wiping surplus ink from
the engraved roll.

=Color of the day=—in ecclesiastical usage the vestments worn on certain
days must be of certain colors, as: white, for the feasts of our Lord,
of virgins who were not martyrs, and of confessors; red for feasts of
Pentecost and of all martyrs; violet for advent and from Septuagesima
until Easter; green for ferial or ordinary days; black on Good Friday
and in services for the dead. Cloth of gold is supposed to take the
place of white, red or green.

=Color-test=—general term for the various means of determining the
purity or fastness of colors, which may be by means of exposure,
washing, chemical processes, etc. See Acid t., Exposure t., and an
encyclopedia.

=Comb=—a little rake of rubber, horn, celluloid or other substance used
in dressing the hair.

=Combination suit=—undershirt and drawers constructed as one piece or
garment; better known as union s.

=Combing=—the process of arranging the fibers of wool, mohair, silk,
cotton, etc., into a parallel condition and of equal length, preparatory
to spinning into smooth, even and regular yarn; the perfected
application of the carding principle.

=Combing wool=—fleece intended for worsted yarn, the staple ranging from
4 to 10 inches long; generally classed as fine, medium, coarse and low.
See Wool. Compare Carding w.

=Come again=—shopkeeper’s invitation to try it over again.

=Come-back=—a customer, not sold to the first time, who returns.

=Come-to-Jesus-collar=—irreverent term for a plain standing linen shirt
c. of the lap front variety; a “choker”; a clergyman’s c.

=Comforter=—a long woolen scarf or muffler.

=Comforter=—a quilt or counterpane, especially one of cotton or wool
filling between two sheets of cotton or silk, more or less fancifully
stitched.

=Comfortable=—a sort of shawl worn in the first half of the last
century.

=Commander’s coat=—(=masonic=) a double-breasted frock c. of black
cloth, having two rows of 11 buttons each and a standing military collar
and epaulets. Compare Sir Knights c. and Fatigue blouse.

=Commander’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Special full dress, Full dress,
Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress. See also
variations.

=Comme il faut=—irreproachable.

=Commercially all-wool=—see All wool.

=Commodore’s uniform=—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service
dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress. See also variations.

=Common=—see Wool.

=Commonsense=—a name sometimes applied to designate a certain style of
broad-toed footform shoe. See Orthopedic.

=Competition=—a good thing to take the conceit out of some merchants.

=Composition cloth=—a strong, heavy cotton duck or canvas, chemically
waterproofed, used for trunk covers, bags, etc.

=Compound spectacles=—(1) s. having lenses made of two different foci or
characters in one frame; (2) s. with supplementary (detachable) lenses
of colored glass. Compare Bifocal s.

=Concertina pocket=—a bellows (patch) p.

=Conchas=—Silver ornaments attached to the spurs worn by cowboys and
plainsmen on high days and holiday occasions.

=Conditioning=—a process in the manufacture of cotton yarns, restoring
thereto, immediately after spinning, the natural moisture that was
driven out. Originally the purpose was to add weight and deceive the
purchaser, but experience, in comparison with yarns “hot off the reel”,
has demonstrated that conditioned yarns are improved materially in
strength, elasticity and appearance, with freedom from kinks and curls.

=Conductors’ uniforms=—see Railroad c. u. and Street railway c. u.

=Coner=—a workman who attends to a cone on which hat bodies are formed.

=Coney=—a species of rabbit, the fur of which is largely used in the
manufacture of fur garments, and by hatters; properly the fur of the
conepatus, a genus of badger-like skunks; loosely applied to all cheap
furs, such as rabbit, cat, etc.

=Confessional cape=—a c. worn by Catholic priests in the confessional
box; not much in present use.

=Confirm=—to ratify an order given—a practice that seems to be growing
in usage.

=Conformateur=—a mechanical device for obtaining and recording or
holding the shape of the head or of other parts of the body that hats or
other articles of apparel may be conformed thereto.

=Congress shoe=—a s. without a buttoned or laced opening in the front of
top, but with elastic gores in the sides.

=Coning=—in hat making the process of shaping the flat felt into cones.

=Connaught=—an overcoat of the same class as the present day
Chesterfield, popular in England about 25 years ago.

=Continental hat=—the distinctiv h., so called, worn by the Continental
Army of old, but which dates back to the time of William III. See Three
cornered h.

=Contract=—(1) a binding legal agreement insisted upon by employes not
confident of holding their jobs otherwise, and proffered by employers
not confident of holding good men otherwise; (2) an agreement for
merchandise or other services.

=Contraptions=—vulgarism applied to any new-fangled, peculiar thing or
idea; e. g., an extravagant form of dress, a queer and unusual manner of
speech, or anything else that is new and to which the public taste is
not accustomed.

=Cope=—a long mantle of silk or brocade worn over the alb by priests or
bishops on solemn or ceremonial occasions; also a state or choral
vestment worn by laymen.

=Copper toed=—name given to the old-time schoolboy’s shoes with copper
toe protection against scuffing.

=Cops=—the conical rolls of thread formed on the spindle of a spinning
machine.

=Cor de soie=—a corded silk of the 18th century.

=Cord stitch=—a fancy s. of a chain-like nature.

=Corded edge=—in tailoring an edge finish obtained by laying a cord
along the joint and fastening it thereto so as to present a hard-wearing
e.; see piped e. Differing from corded welt in that the cord is not
concealed but is on the outer edge or surface.

=Corded goods=—trade term for such goods as Bedford cord, whipcord,
repps, ottoman, etc.

=Corded pocket=—same as jetted p. (qv), especially if the turned over
piece encloses a cord.

=Corded seam=—a plain s. (qv) is first made, then instead of being
presst open, the s. is turned to one side and stitcht thru again so that
the face of the cloth shows a row of stitching, corresponding, usually,
with the edge finish. The three thicknesses give a cord effect to the
s., hence the name, altho it is also called “single-stitch s.” Also sewn
with a cord or piping between so as to show same on the outside. See C.
edge.

=Corded wolf’s paw=—see Wig.

=Cordington=—a heavy, close-felted variety of “niggerhead”. See also
Petersham.

=Cordonnet=—inferior silk fibers used for manufacturing braids, binding,
twist, etc.

=Cordovan=—horsehide shoe leather.

=Corduroy=—a heavy, pile-woven cotton fabric largely used for hunting
garments, stable wear, laborer’s clothes, etc.; usually 27 inches wide.
In weaving one or two sets of weft may be used (the latter for the
better grades), the weft forming the pile which is thrown up in furrows
of loops which are afterward cut and singed, and the cloth then dyed.

=Cordwainer=—a shoemaker.

=Cork sole=—shoemaking term for an intermediate s. of cork for warmth
and protection against wet.

=Corkscrew worsted=—a twill woven suiting having a round, even twill,
supposed to, but not suggesting the twists of a corkscrew, formed by the
warp surrounding and imbedding the weft and appearing on both face and
back of the fabric.

=Corner pocket=—same as top p.

=Coronation cloth=—a black-and-red variation of Queen’s mourning c.,
(qv) appearing just previous to the first time set for coronation of
King Edward VII.

=Coronet=—an article of decorativ attire not popular in democratic
America, tho in activ demand by heiresses of peddlers, packers, etc.

=Corporal’s uniform=—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u.,
Fatigue u. Also variants.

=Corpulent=—trade term for a man whose waist and breast are more than
normal measure; i. e., a man whose chest seems to have slipt down below
his belt. See Stout.

=Corselet=—medieval armor.

=Corset=—contraption of cloth, steel and whalebone for giving
shapeliness to a woman or effeminacy to a man.

=Corset vest=—a vest (waistcoat) cut snug and tight to compress the
waist and strongly constructed to withstand the strain.

=Cosmetique=—same as Pomatum.

=Cossacks=—a peculiar shapeless sort of trousers reaching about to the
ankle where they are drawn with a ribbon and tied, rather full below the
waist where they are gathered by plaits to shape; popular in first half
of 19th century. Also called Plaited trousers.

=Cost-mark=—the first thing, not comprehended in his duties, that the
new employe takes an activ interest in learning.

=Coster suit=—general term for anything garish and cockneyfied.

=Costume=—(1) dress and the science and history of dress; (2) the
garments one may be wearing.

=Costume de rigueur=—extreme formal or evening dress; prescribed
ceremonious attire.

=Costumer=—one who furnishes garments of any particular period or
fashion for theatrical use, masquerades, etc.

=Costumer=—a piece of furniture upon which clothes are hung at night.

=Costumic=—of or pertaining to costume (rare).

=Cotta=—a short surplice, with and without sleeves.

=Cottes noir=—“black coats”, the nickname of a corps of mercenary German
troops of the early 17th century, whose appointments were black thruout.

=Cotton=—the soft, wooly fleece or down from the seed boll of the
c.-plant. How interesting are the encyclopedias! Look it up.

=Cotton-bale=—a bundle of about 500 lbs., in dimension 54 × 27 × 27
inches.

=Cotton bengaline=—silk b. with cotton warp.

=Cotton cheat=—term used by righteous factors in denunciation of
mercerized woolen and worsted fabrics.

=Cotton classification=—the New York commercial classification is (1)
full grades: fair, middling fair, good middling, middling, low middling,
good ordinary, ordinary; (2) half grades are designated by the prefix
“strict”; (3) quarter grades by the prefix “barely”, meaning a point
above half grade and the next full grade above, and “fully”, meaning a
point between half grade and the next full grade below. Liverpool high
grades are higher and low grades lower than those of New York.
Classifications for length are short staple (under 25 mm.), medium (25
to 30 mm.), long (30 to 40 mm.), and extra (40 mm. or more).

=Cotton gin=—a machine for separating the seeds from the fiber of
cotton.

=Cotton test=—if silk or wool suspected of containing cotton, light a
specimen by match; if adulterated will burn until consumed; the more
common test for wool is by boiling in caustic soda. See Breaking t.,
Burning t., Oil t., Sulfuric acid t., Thru-lighting t., Untwisting t.,
Acid t. There are also microscopic and other tests. See an encyclopedia.

=Cotton velvet=—velveteen.

=Cotton warp=—trade term for suitings and other cloths woven with a warp
of cotton and with filling of woolen or worsted.

=Cotton worsted=—stout all-cotton or part-cotton worsted-wove suitings
for men’s wear in imitation of honester goods, usually of hard, slippery
feel and the despair of the workman who has to “chop” it with shears.
See Cottonade; also Manipulated.

=Cottonade=—stout cotton cloth woven in imitation of woolen or worsted
trouserings, produced of coarse yarns, the patterns executed in the
loom; usually narrow width.

=Cottonette=—an elastic knitted cotton fabric employed for bathing
suits.

=Cotts=—see Cotty wool.

=Cotty wool=—the poor fleece of sheep exposed to severe weather or
inadequately fed; generally hard, brittle, matted and of little value.

=Cotul=—a moss grown on the rocks in several British isles: basis of the
brown dye used in coloring Harris tweeds.

=Count=—in spinning, the number given to any thread or yard (except
silk) to indicate its relativ fineness, based on the number of threads
required to weigh one pound. See Spinning; also see an encyclopedia.

=Counter=—a peculiarly shaped piece of sole leather used for stiffening
or supporting that part of the upper of a shoe immediately around the
heel.

=Counterhopper=—a too familiar term for salesclerks in retail shops.

=Counter jumper=—same thing.

=Counterpane=—a coverlet or quilt.

=Counting glass=—a magnifying glass for counting threads, twills, etc.,
of a fixed focus with an aperture of definit dimensions to serve as a
multiple.

=Court coat=—(1) a formal dress c. in European use; resembles c. in
vogue in the days of the Georges; cut somewhat like a “cutaway”, with
standing collar, deep pocket flaps, braided frogs instead of buttons,
braided edges; (2) a house footman’s c.

=Court dress=—(England) velvet tailcoat with steel buttons, silk
waistcoat, velvet knee breeches, black silk stockings, buckled low shoes
and white gloves, a cockt hat carried under the arm and a small dress
sword worn at the side.

=Court livery=—c. coat, silk or satin knee breeches, plush waistcoat,
silk stockings, buckled low shoes.

=Court plaster=—silk or cotton gummed with an antiseptic or healing
compound, useful after a scrap; originally worn by court ladies in the
shape of beauty patches (and pimple hiders?).

=Court tie=—a low shoe with short vamp; a sort of pump.

=Coutil=—a closely woven cotton fabric with a fine herringbone twill,
slightly resembling jean, used for corsets. (Included herein because
some men wear ’em.) (=Coutille=).

=Cover coat=—a top c.; a covert c.

=Covered button=—general term for coat, waistcoat and overcoat buttons
made on a wooden or metal mold and covered with silk braid, mohair,
lasting, cloth, etc., which see under those names.

=Coverlet=—an outer covering for a bed; a quilt.

=Covert cloth=—a stout twill woven woolen coating, the warp of which is
of two twisted yarns of differing colors with a single weft of the same
color as the dark strand of warp, producing a pepper-and-salt or mixt
effect in the piece, well fulled and sheared according as a smooth or
twilled surface is to result. Low grade coverts are sometimes woven with
a cotton-and-wool or all-cotton warp.

=Covert coat=—a short top c., properly of covert cloth.

=Couverture pantaloons=—a cloth or rubber lap robe for motoring wear,
convertible into over trousers by means of bands, hooks and buttons.

=Cow seal=—trade term for leather made from cowhides stamped in
imitation of seal leather but with a large, coarse grain. Compare Pin s.

=Cow-tail=—see Tail.

=Cowboy boots=—b. of fine stout calfskin, the legs of which are
decorated with fancy lines and curves stitcht into the leather, and
having heels at least 2 inches high curving inwardly with a very small
bottom, not as a matter of vanity or daintiness, but as a check against
the foot slipping thru the stirrup and as a brace against
ground-slipping when roping an animal.

=Cowhide=—(1) thick, heavy boot leather; (2) sole leather; (3) rough
boots of ditto and of pleasant memory of boyhood country days; (4) a
heavy flexible tapering leather whip used by teamsters and sometimes of
unpleasant youthful memory.

=Cowes coat=—see Dinner jacket.

=Cowl=—(1) a monk’s hood; (2) the garment of which it is a part.

=Cowlick=—(1) a tuft of hair turned up over the forehead, as if licked
by a cow; (2) a tuft of hair sticking up out of the crown of the head
that can’t be brushed down.

=Coxcomb=—a pretentious, conceited dandy.

=Crabbing=—a process in cloth weaving by which yarn is uniformly
moistened and stretched. See Cockling.

=Craiganputtach=—a variety of Scotch tweed from the town of that name.

=Crammer=—mentioned by Capt. Gronow: probably a choking neck stock or
high cravat.

=Crank=—a fool customer who knows better than the salesman what he
wants.

=Crape=—see Crepe.

=Crape-cloth=—a fine quality, light-weight, stoutly woven worsted
fabric, with a surface in imitation of silk crepe, much used for dress
coats.

=Crash=—(1) coarse linen toweling or suiting; (2) a light-weight
“homespun” woolen suiting woven in imitation of linen toweling.

=Cravat=—a necktie or scarf, particularly of the larger, hand-tied
varieties.

=Cravat pin=—see Scarf p.

=Cravatings=—silk fabrics designed for neckdressings.

=Cravenette=—a process applied to yarns before weaving, rendering the
cloths made therefrom repellent to water and moisture; sometimes applied
also to the woven fabric with satisfactory results; a secret process
owned by The Cravenette Company and B. Priestley & Co., of Bradford,
England. Frequently, the word is most erroneously misused as a name for
an overcoat, tho the word strictly refers only to the proofing process,
and strictly represents, therefore, neither a garment nor a fabric.

=Crease=—a prest fold.

=Crease=—a large dagger used by the Malays. (Kris.)

=Crease line=—in tailoring (1) the line along which a coat collar is
folded; (2) where a lapel or rever is turned; (3) a horizontal line in
the center of trousers legs, front and back; (4) any other place where a
crease may be necessary or fashionable.

=Credit=—the precious privilege of obtaining goods one day and of paying
for them, if you can, some other day.

=Credit clothier=—term specially applied to retail tradesmen who sell
clothes on the installment plan, exacting a larger profit for their
“obliging” accommodation.

=Creedmore=—a sort of brogan or blucher shoe for farmers, railroaders,
etc., made of extra heavy leather, double stitcht and reinforced by
rivets, and having commonly an outside sole leather counter.

=Creepers=—a baggy sort of dress for children learning to move about;
usually bifurcated.

=Creole=—a stout shoe similar to a Congress gaiter, but with tops and
uppers cut in one piece and without caps.

=Crepe=—generic name for semi-transparent fabrics of silk, wool or
cotton, or combinations thereof, having a weave effect characterized by
a crinkly surface of minute irregular ridges or sometimes of small
twisted knots or puckers, usually produced by making the weft or warp
(or both) of hard twisted threads, each alternate group twisted
reversely, which by loom spacing and tension, relax and untwist when the
fabric is taken from the loom, resulting in the peculiarity described.
Black silk c. is used almost entirely for mourning.

=Crepe=—a species of thrown silk. See Throwing.

=Crepe cloth=—see Crape c.

=Crepe de Chine=—a fine, soft, thin silk fabric slightly crinkled; used
for neckwear, mufflers, etc.

=Crepe de sante=—a light-weight cotton or linen fabric, resembling momie
in weave, used for undergarments, pajamas, etc.

=Crepele=—French word meaning crepe-effect.

=Crib=—a small bed; a berth or bunk.

=Cricket=—a small footstool.

=Cricketing=—general name for fine twilled flannel suitings (from
popular British use).

=Crispin=—a shoemaker. See St. Crispin.

=Crispin cloak=—see Houppelande.

=Croat=—a cravat; such as was worn by the Croatians in the French army
in 1636.

=Crocheted tie=—a slimsy thing on a level with colored shoe laces;
usually a souvenir of a misguided sweetheart.

=Crock=—to blacken, or stain, or lose color, as a dye that is not fast.

=Crocus finish=—a superior glaze or polish given to knife blades, etc.

=Crofter=—a peasant worker in (British) woolen or linen mills; a linen
bleacher; a worker at crude hand looms.

=Crofting=—the bleaching of linen or cotton fabrics on grass or
bleaching grounds.

=Croise=—weaving term indicating that the warp threads cross each other
on the back of the fabric, as velvet, broadcloth, etc., forming a sort
of twill.

=Crop=—a short wooden riding or hunting whip with a leather loop instead
of a lash at one end and usually a handle at the other.

=Crop=—a growth of hair or beard; a wig.

=Cropping=—technical term for nap-shearing.

=Cross dyed=—trade term for fabrics in which, in weaving, a skein-dyed
decorativ thread of a dark color, usually black, is woven into the
fabric in the gray, and the whole piece afterward dyed a lighter color,
permitting the dark decoration to show thru. Also called resist dyed
(qv).

=Cross-gartered=—see Malvolio in “Twelfth Night”.

=Cross-legged=—the manner in which journeymen tailors work, whence their
inclination to parenthesis of the legs.

=Cross pockets=—regular p. (qv).

=Cross stitches=—threads crossing one another, either singly (in the
middle) or doubly (in the ends), something like a snake fence; used for
staying the edges of velvet on collars, but often used for ornament
only.

=Cross stripes=—in weaving, s. running across the width instead of along
the length; horizontally.

=Crossbred=—the best sheep for mutton tho producing coarse wool.

=Crossbreed=—wool classification term. See Wool.

=Crotch=—juncture of the two halves of a trouser.

=Crotch piece=—a triangular piece of goods sewed onto the inner legs of
trousers at the crotch when cut from goods not wide enough to permit of
unspliced chopping.

=Crotch seam=—the fork s. See Stride.

=Crown=—(1) the upper part of a hat, particularly the flat or table part
thereof; (2) the top piece of a flat crowned cap.

=Crown=—a decorativ circlet or covering for the head, worn, carried or
displayed as a mark of kingly or sovereign power; unknown in U. S.

=Crown=—the upper pyramid of a diamond. See Brilliant cutting.

=Crown-piece=—see Crown.

=Crow’s-foot tack stitch=—in tailoring, an ornamental tack for ends of
pockets, vents or inverted plaits. The tack is first laid out in a
triangle and the threads laid in from base to apex-sides, alternately
from one side and then the other, until the threads meet at the base.
This is the most common form; there are variations, not differing
greatly in effect or method.

=Crow’s-foot=—a three-pointed embroidery stitch sometimes used in
finishing pockets. See above.

=Crow’s-toe=—same as Crow’s-foot.

=Cruiser=—a waterproof moccasin boot with a sewed-on sole and a medium
heel, both studded with small hob nails.

=Crush hat=—the collapsible opera h.

=Crush opera=—same as O. hat.

=Crusher=—a soft felt hat, not hurt if stuft into a bag; much loved of
travelers.

=Crutch=—the crotch or fork; (properly crotch).

=Crutch=—a walking prop for cripples and invalids.

=Ct.=—abbreviation for carat.

=Cue=—see Queue.

=Cuff box=—a receptacle for cuffs; usually of leather.

=Cuff button=—wrist jewelry.

=Cuff links=—cuff buttons. See Links.

=Cuffs=—(=1=) ornamental finishing to coat sleeves; (=2=) separate or
attacht bands as a finishing for shirt sleeves.

=Cuirass=—defensiv armor covering the entire upper part of the body.

=Culet=—see Collet point.

=Cummerbund=—a broad, soft sash.

=Cup button=—bowl shape.

=Curl=—a cute little kink.

=Curled yarn=—weft y. commonly composed of two or three threads of
contrasting colors, characterized by loops or curls at intervals,
variously effected.

=Curling=—a process in hat manufacture whereby brims are shaped to
conform exactly to a model.

=Curling iron=—a machine that had better be left altogether to women,
who have hair to burn.

=Currier=—one who curries or dresses leather.

=Curtain=—the waist lining of trousers.

=Custom made=—made in the mode; to order and to measure.

=Custom tailor=—one who makes clothes to order only. Compare Merchant t.

=Customer=—an individual highly prized by the proprietor and patronized
by the salesperson; sometimes called an “Indian”.

=Customer’s labels=—in the readymade clothing trade (wholesale) a name
given to woven silk labels, bearing retailer’s names, sewed into neck of
coats.

=Customs inspector’s uniform=—coat, vest, trousers and cap of dark blue
cloth, the coat 4-button double-breasted in winter with 2 lower pockets
with flaps, 1 outside welted breast and 1 inside breast pocket; in
summer to be 4 buttons, single-breasted, square cut. Inspectors of
passenger’s baggage wear red cap instead of blue. Insignia indicating
rank worn on front of cap. All coat and vest buttons of flat bone, to be
covered with shells when on duty.

=Cut=—a coil of two hanks of yarn.

=Cut goods=—trade term for hosiery knitted on a round knitting machine,
the tubular, unshaped product being cut into required lengths, then
footed, shaped, etc., by cutting out and adding other pieces as needed;
the cheapest process of manufacture.

=Cut mark=—a mark fixt on the warp during dressing or beaming, to
indicate a certain length and serve as a point for separating two
adjoining pieces of cloth when woven.

=Cut-off cuff=—a sewed on or special c.

=Cut-off vamp=—same as Short v.

=Cut pile=—having a pile made by cutting the loops of the warp or floats
of the filling on certain fabrics, as velvet, plush, etc.

=Cut velvet=—see Velvet.

=Cut wig=—see Wig.

=Cutaway frock coat=—a single-breasted f. c. with the skirts cut in a
slanting line from a point near the waist. See Frock c. Occasionally—and
whimsically—this c. is made double-breasted, but such an order is the
despair of the tailor because of the difficulty of obtaining a smart
appearance.

=Cutlas=—a heavy, curved short sword with one cutting edge and a
bowl-shaped guard, used mostly in hand-to-hand naval engagements;
latterly being discontinued.

=Cutler=—a dealer in knives, scissors, razors, table cutlery, surgical
instruments, etc.; a manufacturer or repairer of same.

=Cutlery=—cutting instruments collectivly.

=Cuts=—trade term for less than a bolt or full piece of goods; short
lengths.

=Cutter=—(1) in tailoring, the man who takes the measurements and drafts
and cuts the paper patterns, which, in the larger establishment are
turned over to “choppers” (qv) who “make the lay” on the cloth and cut
the cloth; (2) in ready-to-wear clothing manufacturing the “cutter” is
the man who lays out the pattern on the cloth and cuts the cloth, either
by shears, electric cutting machine or long knife—corresponding to the
“chopper” of the merchant tailor; (3) in shoe manufacturing, one who
lays the patterns on the leather and cuts therefrom the vamps or other
parts of a shoe.

=Cutters-up=—manufacturers of various articles of apparel. See
Cutting-up trade.

=Cutting knife=—a long, tapering k. (24 to 30 in. blade) working in a
groove or slot, used for cutting cloth, linings, etc., in large shops.
As many as 75 layers of cloth may be cut at one stroke.

=Cutting machine=—an electrically operated m. for cutting several
thicknesses of cloth at one operation, moved about by hand and
controlled at will of the operator. There are two principal styles (1) a
straight knife 5 to 6 in. long, and (2) a circular or wheel knife 3½ to
4½ in. in diameter, which will cut thru about 30 layers of heavy cloth
and about 45 of light cloth; the straight knife will cut several more
layers.

=Cutting-up trade=—indicativ of the trades that buy yard goods for
purposes of manufacturing, as clothiers, tailors, shirt makers, etc., as
distinguished from the jobbing trade.

=Cutty=—a short-stemmed pipe.


                                   D

=Dalmatic=—a wide sleeved tunic reaching to the knees, worn over the alb
or cassock at mass and communion by deacons; also a medieval state or
coronation robe. As an ecclesiastical vestment it was originally white
with wide perpendicular stripes of purple; as now worn it follows the
color of the day with stripes of embroidery.

=Damascened=—see Damascus blade and Jowhir.

=Damascus blade=—general term for swords famed for the quality and
temper of the metal as well as the beauty of the jowhir or watering of
the blades.

=Damask=—a twill woven fabric of linen, cotton, silk, etc., with
loom-figured all-over patterns.

=Damask=—steel workt in the Damascus style, showing the wavy lines of
the different metals; also called watered and twisted.

=Dame fashion=—a fetich.

=Damier=—large square checks.

=Dancing clog=—a laced leather low shoe with wooden sole (very noisy).

=Dancing pump=—a low-heeled, low shoe with short vamps, with or without
ornamental bow at instep.

=Dandified=—dandyish; foppish.

=Dandy=—a beau; not quite a dude.

=Dandy=—something out of the common; first-class.

=Dandy trap=—a loose stone, which slips when trodden on, and, in wet
weather, throws up the mud under it, to the great detriment of the
clothes of the victim.

=Darbies=—cant for irons or handcuffs.

=Darning stitch=—a s. peculiar to darning or embroidery.

=Dart=—a place in a garment from which a tapering piece or V has been
cut to make it fit the figure, as at the waist. Same as fish.

=Dauber=—a small brush or other arrangement for applying blacking or
polish to shoes, incidentally soiling the hands.

=Day dress=—generally, single and double-breasted frock coats, as
contrasted with swallowtails and Tuxedos for evening dress and sack
coats for day business and lounge wear.

=De Joinville=—a neck dressing, a plain, flat strip of satin or silk
which must be folded before it is put on, and is passed thru a flat
(gold) clasp or “scarf ring”, having a hinge at one side and a spike or
projection on the inner side of the rear part for engaging and keeping
in place the adjusted tie; sometimes this clasp is made with a hinged
pin; also the scarf is frequently tied as an ascot, puff, once-over,
waterfall, etc.

=Dead gold=—unburnisht.

=Dead hairs=—see Kemp.

=Dead horse=—(nautical commerce) wages paid before they are earned.

=Dead wool=—fleece taken from pelts of sheep that have died. Same as
Kemp.

=Debeige=—see Beige.

=Decoration=—trade term for the white or bright-colored threads used to
lighten up worsted and other otherwise plainish fabrics; usually
employed when the “decoration” is of silk or mercerized threads.

=De soy=—see Sergedusoy.

=Deep mourning=—lusterless black outer garments with crepe and no social
intercourse or amusements.

=Deep scye=—a variety of armhole not fitting up close under the arm, as
is usual, but where the front and back parts of the coat are cut away in
a descending curve to a point a little above the waist, affecting, of
course, the style of sleeve also.

=Degage=—easy; unconventional; neglige.

=Delaine=—a name given to combing wools. See Wool.

=Delivery=—getting goods to the purchaser; usually behind promised time.

=Delivery boy=—a pert young imp, hired, in the opinion of customers, to
talk back to them.

=Deltoid muscle=—the pons asinorum of tailoring.

=Demi-toilette=—day dress.

=Demi-vest=—see Vest-front.

=Denim=—a heavy, twilled cotton fabric, usually woven with plain colored
warp threads, as blue, gray, brown, etc., with white weft; used for
overalls, jumpers, etc. Dungaree.

=Denmark satin=—a coarse, worsted fabric, woven with smooth, satin
twilled surface; a variety of lasting cloth.

=Dent’s=—trade diminutiv for the general line of gloves made by Dent,
Allcroft & Co., London.

=Dental floss=—a lightly twisted antiseptic heavy silk yarn used for
cleansing between the teeth.

=Dental powder=—“tooth powder”. See Dentifrice.

=Dentifrice=—any substance or preparation used in cleansing the teeth.

=Dentist’s coat=—a short working jacket of heavy drill or duck, not
unlike barber’s c., barkeeper’s c., waiter’s c., etc.

=Department store=—the apotheosis of the junk shop.

=Depilatory=—a chemical preparation for removing hair from face or other
parts of the body.

=Deposit=—a tailor’s insurance against loss if you fail to call for your
suit.

=Derby jacket=—same as D. sack.

=Derby sack=—a single-breasted s. coat with the regular front, with a
short underarm cut terminating in a waistline extending back to the side
seam, meeting a body-shaped back part which has a center vent reaching
to the made waistline, and finisht with inverted (side) plaits also
reaching to the waistline.

=Deshabille=—undress.

=Designer=—one who originates and plans styles for manufacturing; in
wholesale clothing manufacturing one who also cuts the (first) paper
patterns, which are afterward turned over to an assistant to grade into
sizes.

=Detroit cap=—a c., usually of fur, having a round crown, a rolling band
highest at the back and sloping to the front, meeting a visor that may
be rolled up or down.

=Devil=—a machine employed in hat manufacturing for thoroly mixing furs
after carroting.

=Devil=—(woolen manufacture) see Willowing machine.

=Devil’s receptacles=—a nickname given to the wide, long, trailing,
slasht sleeves worn by the gay bucks of the 14th century.

=Devon=—a heavy, close-milled overcoat cloth, in character between
melton and kersey; one of the old names for a variety of kersey.

=Dew retting=—the decomposition of flax by dew. See Retting.

=Dhotee=—an East Indian concession to modesty. See Waistcloth.

=Diagonal=—general term for worsted fabrics having a diagonal twill
produced by raising the warp threads progressivly, from left to right,
or right to left, usually at an angle of 45°, in groups of 2, 3, 4,
etc., and filling in the weft threads to make them stand out in ridges.

=Diapers=—our first garments.

=Dice=—a square, woven pattern.

=Dicer=—a silk hat.

=Dicky=—originally (about 1809) a stiff, standing collar; latterly a
separate shirt bosom, with collar band, worn in place of shirt by the
impecunious. (Also Dickey).

=Didies=—see Diapers.

=Digitalia=—the fingered glove of the ancient Romans. See Chirothecae.

=Dimity=—a fine cotton fabric having a stripe or figure raised on the
face and deprest on the back.

=Dining jacket=—see Dinner coat.

=Dink=—to dress or bedeck. (Scotch).

=Dinky=—absurdly small, skimpy or insufficient.

=Dinner jacket=—an informal dress coat without tails, somewhat like a
sack coat, for dinner wear, men’s evening parties, but not where ladies
are present, as at balls, operas, etc. Also called Cowes coat and Tuxedo
coat.

=Dip=—in tailoring, a downward inclination of the waist line of a frock
coat or the bottom line of a sack coat.

=Dip-front=—see Dip.

=Diplomatic uniform=—the court dress of American ministers abroad, while
officially “the ordinary dress of an American citizen” is, by official
approval, a plain dress coat and waistcoat, knee breeches, black silk
stockings and low shoes. This simplicity of attire, contrasted with
oriental sumptuousness and European splendor makes our ambassadors and
ministers peculiarly conspicuous.

=Dirk=—(1) a Scotch dagger generally without chape or guard; (2) a
midshipman’s side arm, either straight or curved. (British navy.)

=Dirk knife=—a clasp k. with a large dirk shaped blade.

=Discharge printing=—a method of producing patterns in textil fabrics by
dyeing in the piece of a solid color and printing the designs with a
bleaching agent. Compare Batik, Extracted, Resist dyeing,
Tied-and-dried, etc.

=Discount=—a rebate for prompt pay, or for imperfections, or out of
courtesy (as to clergymen), or delusivly as in most advertisements.

=Display=—(1) merchandise appropriately arranged for public view; (2)
personal ostentation.

=Distaff=—a rod or staff for holding a quantity of wool or flax in hand
spinning; usually held under the left arm.

=Distingue=—very smart; elegant.

=Dittis=—a fabric formerly made in Manchester, used for (and whence the
name of) Ditty bags (qv).

=Ditty bag=—(nautical) a small bag to hold sewing gear, shaving tackle,
etc.; a sailor’s “housewife”.

=Ditty box=—a small box for holding a sailor’s thread, needles, brushes,
combs, etc.

=Diver’s helmet=—see Diving dress.

=Diving dress=—a waterproof, air-tight garment, like a combined blouse
and trousers, with helmet, the whole hermetically sealed, heavily
weighted, and supplied thru pipes with air for the wearer to breathe.

=Diving suit=—see D. dress.

=Division list=—a proportionate scale of selling prices, used in the
clothing trade, showing the relativ prices of suits, coats, trousers,
vests and combinations thereof.

=Division square=—a tailor’s s. marked with the various fractional
computations commonly required in sub-dividing the taken measures when
drafting.

=Dobbie=—that part of a loom that raises and lowers the harness frames.
Also called Witch. (=Dobby=).

=Doctor’s cap=—(scholastic) usually of black velvet, with gold tassel.
See Mortarboard c.

=Doctor’s gown=—(scholastic) a loose flowing g., usually of silk, with
round, open sleeves barred with black velvet and faced down front with
same; or the velvet may correspond in color with the binding or edging
of hood.

=Doctored=—(1) manipulated; (2) adulterated.

=Doeskin=—a high grade woolen suiting, and trousering material, close
woven, fine twilled, fulled to a very considerable degree and finisht as
required, usually (1) dry, (2) doeskin, (3) melton or (4) worsted, being
respectivly (1) sheared of all nap, baring the weave, (2) smooth nap,
weave nearly concealed, (3) a close standing nap, (4) smooth, hard and
glossy; there are also other finishes.

=Doeskin=—a fine quality of jean (qv) closely twilled and with a wool
filling.

=Doeskin finish=—see Doeskin and Dress faced.

=Dog=—vernacular for affected or redundant finery or style; to put on
airs; vulgar ostentation.

=Dog-rabbitting=—see Piecing-out.

=Dogskin=—a stout, dry, inelastic glove leather made from kyudles or
sheep in imitation of it.

=Dolman=—a sort of cape or cloak with wide open sleeves; also the
uniform jacket of a hussar, worn like a cape, with the sleeves hanging
loose.

=Dom Pedro=—a heavy leather brogan.

=Domestic=—made here; not imported—for which thanks often should be
given.

=Domestic finish=—laundry term for linen finisht without gloss and with
but little bluing.

=Domestics=—cotton goods of American manufacture as distinguisht from
imported goods. Always used in the plural.

=Domet=—a loosely woven, napt, all-cotton, flannel, originally woven
with a woolen weft; largely used for neglige shirts, night robes,
children’s wear, etc. See Outing cloth.

=Domino=—(1) a mask or half mask worn at masquerades; (2) an adjustable
robe or hood worn at masquerades; (3) a loose flowing hooded garment of
ecclesiastical wear.

=Donegal tweed=—strictly that hand-scoured, homespun tweed made wholly
in the county of Donegal, Ireland, on the hand looms of the peasantry;
more loosely tweeds made of Yorkshire yarns woven, dyed and finisht in
Donegal; falsely, any fabric in imitation thereof.

=Doorman’s livery=—same as Footman’s dress 1.

=Dornex=—a heavy 17th century coarse linen, used for servants’ clothing.

=D’Orsay=—trade term for a certain well-rounded effect in the curl of a
hat brim. Compare Pencil curl and Anglesea.

=Double-and-twist=—(1) trade term for weaving yarns doubled and twisted
in combinations of two or more colors; (2) fabrics woven from such
yarns—Bannockburns and Drummond worsteds, being examples.

=Double-breasted=—loosely, any coat, waistcoat, undershirt or other
garment having a double thickness in the front with a double row of
buttons and buttonholes or other means of fastening.

=Double-breasted cutaway=—a variation of the single-breasted frock,
known about 1840, and but infrequently seen since, despite attempts to
revive it. See Cutaway frock coat.

=Double-breasted reefer=—same as D.-b. sack coat.

=Double-breasted sack coat=—see Sack c.

=Double cloth=—general term for any fabric composed of two single
textures woven and joined at one operation, the conjunction being
effected by interlacing part of the warp threads of one texture with
those of the opposit texture, as (1) a fabric with two warp surfaces and
one of weft in the center; (2) a fabric with two weft surfaces and one
of warp in the center; (3) a fabric with two distinct series of warps
and wefts, each woven separately, but united at regular intervals to
each other during the course of weaving. Unless the object is to produce
effects not possible with single cloths the doubling is usually for the
purpose of giving weight and body without the expense of weaving the
face pattern thru and thru. Also called Backt-c., Frenchback, etc.

=Double collar=—a folded c. (qv).

=Double corkscrew=—see Chain-weave serge.

=Double crepe=—a very crisp, crinkly black silk c. (qv) used for deep
mournings. Compare Single c.

=Double cuff=—a c. that is folded and turned back on itself or onto the
sleeve. Compare Single c., Fold-back c.

=Double dyed=—dyed twice over; thoroly impregnated; said also of mixt
goods dyed once in a cotton dye and once in a wool dye, or otherwise, as
the case may be.

=Double faced=—fabrics having a pattern on each side.

=Double knit=—knitted with a double stitch, giving a double thickness to
the fabric.

=Double milled=—sheared twice.

=Double pick=—two filling threads run together into the same shed of the
warp.

=Double pile=—any fabric with pile or heavy nap on two sides, as double
plush, double-faced canton flannel, etc.

=Double satin de Lyon=—a s. having both surfaces glossy.

=Double sole=—trade term for hosiery made with a s. much heavier than
the body of the stocking. See Spliced heel.

=Double soled=—term for shoes made with extra thick soles.

=Double-stitcht=—an edge or seam finish obtained by stitching twice in
parallel rows of stated width, as “¼ in. d. s.”. See “Single s.”.

=Double-stitcht seam=—same as cord s. (qv) but stitcht twice and with a
larger underlay or outlet for the second row of stitching. Also called
Lap s.

=Double-width=—generally, all fabrics ranging from 48 to 60 in. wide and
folded lengthwise before being rolled into bolts; originally goods were
“single width” (27 to 36 in.) and many are still so woven, fine
trousering and shirtings particularly; strictly, the proper term is
“quarter”, as four-quarter (⁴⁄₄) for 36 in.; six-quarter (⁶⁄₄) for 54
in., etc.

=Double work=—knitting term for the use of two threads together instead
of one, and for the fancy effects so produced.

=Doublet=—a close-fitting outer body garment with sleeves and sometimes
with short skirts and belted at the waist, worn from 15th to 17th
centuries, usually with hose.

=Doupe=—gauze weaving.

=Dowdy=—see Slob.

=Dowlas=—originally, a strong, plain woven linen fabric used for working
blouses, etc.; latterly, a sort of stout calico.

=Down at the heels=—poverty; destitution; general seediness; needing
clothes.

=Downright=—see Wool.

=Drafting cape=—see Measuring c. and Beatty c.

=Drap=—French word for cloth; seldom applied to cotton fabrics.

=Drap d’alma=—a fine, close, flat ribbed twilled fabric of wool or silk
and wool, finisht on but one side.

=Drap d’ete=—a fine double warp worsted fabric with fine lengthwise
cords or ridges on the face, and a smooth back, used for dress and
clerical wear, summer coats, etc.

=Drape=—loosely, any smooth-faced fine cloth for dress wear; crepe (qv).

=Draper=—a dealer in cloths; also a clothier, haberdasher or dry goods
merchant.

=Draw string=—a tightening tape or s. working thru a gathered hem, or
eyelets.

=Drawer supports=—any device attacht to trousers (or to suspenders) for
the purpose of holding up the nether undergarments.

=Drawers=—nether undergarments.

=Drawing=—a process of woolen manufacture by which the combed fleece
assumes a yarn or thread-like appearance; roving.

=Drawing stitch=—a method of making an edge-to-edge join or a seam
without a lap, a s. being taken up thru one side, then drawn over and
down under and up thru the other side, and so on; usually employed
joining collars to coats.

=Drawn in=—see Hold in.

=Dreadnought=—see Fearnought.

=Drech=—trash; trashy. (German.)

=Dress=—general term for garments and articles of apparel and the
science and manner of wearing them; more particularly one’s outer
attire.

=Dress=—tailor’s term, indicating the manner in which a man disposes
himself in his trousers, necessitating a certain difference in the
crotch-fulness of one trousers leg, as “right d.” or “left d.”

=Dress=—(=navy=) the uniform to be worn upon the reception of various
prescribed officers of the government, governors of states and
territories, American ambassadors, ministers, etc.; on visits in part to
commanding officers; on Sunday morning inspections. Consists of—for all
commissioned officers, except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief
gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers—frock coat, undress
trousers, (white may be prescribed) cockt hat, epaulets, sword and
undress belt, scarf, white gloves, medals and badges; for officers
excepted above and for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same as
“undress A”; for midshipmen, the same as prescribed for commissioned
officers, substituting blue cap for cockt hat and shoulder knots for
epaulets; for chief petty officers, except bandmasters, and for stewards
and officers’ cooks; blue dress: blue cloth coat and blue cloth
trousers, blue cap, white shirt, white collar and cuffs, black cravat;
white dress: white coat, white trousers, white cap, white shirt, white
collar, black cravat. For bandsmen; blue dress: full dress coat, blue
trousers, helmet, white standing collar, belt, gloves (and for
bandmaster, a sword); white dress: same as blue dress but with white
trousers. For all other enlisted men; blue dress: blue overshirt, blue
cloth trousers, blue cap, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch
only); white dress: dress jumper, white dress trousers, white hat,
neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only); (=Revenue cutter
service=) worn by officers performing any special duty with enlisted men
under arms away from the vessel, and when calling officially upon
officers other than commanders of vessels of war or military posts;
consists of frock coat, white or blue trousers, cap, shoulder straps,
sword and black leather belt over the coat which is worn buttoned.

=Dress belt=—(=army=) see Army b.

=Dress board=—(=navy=) a bulletin b. on which the prescribed dress or
uniform of the day to be worn by the crew is described by executiv
officer’s orders.

=Dress breeches=—(=army=) for all officers, of same material and with
same stripes as d. trousers, cut in the prescribed pattern and fastened
from the knee down with dark bone buttons or with lacings. See also
Service b.

=Dress cap=—(=army=) for all officers, same as Full dress c. (qv) except
with certain differences of trimming and insignia. For enlisted men: of
dark blue cloth of same style as prescribed for officers, bearing a
stripe of cloth of the color of the corps, department or arm of service,
with appropriate rating insignia.

=Dress coat=—see Evening dress.

=Dress coat=—(=army=) a sack c. of dark blue cloth or serge. For general
officers: double-breasted with high rolling collar and 2 rows of gilt
buttons groupt according to rank, 3 buttons on cuff; skirt to extend
one-third of distance to knee, with 4 inch slit at hip for saber; all
pockets inside. For all other officers: single-breasted with standing
collar, c. closing with flap containing concealed fastenings, c. cut
form fitting with saber slit and side vents and trimmed around bottom,
front edges, collar and vents with 1¼ in. flat black mohair braid;
shoulder and collar ornaments per regulations. For enlisted men: a
single-breasted sack c. of dark blue cloth, cut with a straight front,
fastened with 6 buttons down the front; standing collar; shoulder loops
of same goods let in at shoulder seam and fastened to collar with small
button; 3 buttons on cuffs; collar, shoulder loops and cuffs piped with
cord-edge braid of the color of corps, department or arm of service.

=Dress derby=—a d.-shaped hat, covered with gros-grain or other plain
silk; for wear with dinner jacket. Also called Tuxedo hat.

=Dress faced=—a term sometimes given to woolen cloths, such as doeskin,
broadcloth, beaver, etc., having a slight nap. Compare Bareface finish,
Scotch finish, Velvet finish.

=Dress frock coat=—(=Revenue cutter service=) same as Full dress f. c.,
but worn without epaulets.

=Dress gloves=—(1) generally, g. of fine kid; (2) specifically, g. of
white kid or fabric for evening dress.

=Dress jumper—(navy)= worn by all enlisted men, except chief petty
officers, officers’ stewards, officers’ cooks and bandsmen; made of
bleacht cotton drill, of pattern similar to the blue overshirt (see
naval overshirt) except that the body hangs straight and loose to 2 to 3
inches below the hips; trimmings same as for blue overshirt (but all of
white), the collar and cuffs being of dark blue flannel.

=Dress refines=—see Refine cloth.

=Dress reform=—an ever-recurring evanescent dream.

=Dress reformer=—a human by-product of civilization subject to cerebral
coruscations, occasionally menacing to the peace of his fellow men.

=Dress shield=—a light rubber or other perspiration-proof device
sometimes used in the armholes of coats.

=Dress shirt=—a (loose) trade term for a white or colored s. with a full
set-in stiff bosom. Compare Evening d. s.

=Dress shirt protector=—see Shirt p.

=Dress suit=—see Evening dress.

=Dress suit case=—see Suit c.

=Dress tie=—a folded strip of white linen, lawn or dimity to be tied in
a bow, worn only with full evening dress.

=Dress trousers=—see Evening dress.

=Dress trousers—(army)= for all general officers, including staff corps
and departments but not engineers—of dark blue cloth without stripe,
welt or cord; for chief of artillery, of light blue cloth with 1½ in.
stripe of scarlet cloth; for all other officers, the same as for full
dress. For enlisted men: of sky-blue kersey, of regulation cut.

=Dress uniform—(army)= the prescribed u. worn by officers at reviews,
inspections, parades and other ceremonies when the troops are in d. u.;
at such other duties under arms as may be prescribed; on courtsmartial,
courts of inquiry, and boards of officers when prescribed; also
authorized as a mess dress, and for social occasions when full dress is
not worn. For all officers, dismounted: dress coat and trousers, dress
cap, black shoes; under arms add dress belt (worn under coat) saber and
white gloves; same, mounted: dress coat, dress breeches, dress cap, drab
leather gloves, black boots, spurs; under arms, add dress belt (under
the coat) and saber; for chaplains, dismounted: dress coat and trousers,
chaplain’s hat, black shoes, white gloves (when occasions require
gloves); same, mounted: dress coat and breeches, chaplain’s hat, black
boots, spurs; for enlisted men: worn when prescribed by commanding
officer; dismounted: dress coat and trousers, dress cap, black shoes
and, when under arms, white gloves, russet leather belt, and cartridge
box; mounted: dress coat, service breeches, dress cap, russet leather
shoes, leggings, spurs, drab leather gloves and, if under arms, saber
belt and cartridge box.

=Dress waistcoat=—see Evening d. w.

=Dress worsted=—general term for fine grades of unfinisht and
face-finisht worsteds, used for dress wear. See Unfinisht worsted.
Whipcord, etc.

=Dressed leather=—any l. that has been curried or stuft with oils to
increase its flexibility, its resistance to water, etc.

=Dressing=—(1) a process in weaving by which every thread of the warp is
uniformly set in its proper position in the loom; (2) last process in
shoemaking consisting of final applications of dressing or polish, the
treatment of dull or bright spots, stains, etc.

=Dressing bag=—a fashion-writer’s affectation. See Suit case, Kit b.,
Traveling b., etc.

=Dressing gown=—a loose g. or robe worn while dressing or in undress.

=Dressy=—fond of dress; supposedly elegant or stylish.

=Drill=—trade abbreviation for drilling (qv).

=Drilling=—general term for stout twilled cotton and linen fabrics used
for pockets, interlinings, summer trousers, etc.

=Driving coat=—(1) a c. designed for protection or style when driving;
(2) a duster (qv).

=Driving gloves=—g. with re-enforced palms and under-fingers, often with
gauntlet tops.

=Driving hood=—a knitted covering for the head that may be worn
variously, as a h. over a cap or without a cap, or as a throat muffler,
etc., according to adjustment.

=Driving rug=—a carriage robe.

=Drop stitch=—knitting term for a skipt or slipt s., done to effect a
lacy or other pattern.

=Drum-major’s shako—(marine corps)= see Full dress cap.

=Drummer=—usually the whole band, judging by his noise.

=Drummond worsted=—in general, any plain Oxford w., twill woven, one
warp of black and one of one or two shades of gray (or white), both
twisted, and then alternated, the filling yarn being of the same
colorings and arrangement. Strictly the term belongs to worsteds
manufactured by a firm of English weavers of that name and with whom
this peculiar plainish effect seems to have originated.

=Dry cleaning=—a naptha or other chemical process; meaning not washed in
water.

=Dry finish=—trade term for woolen fabrics (as doeskins) sheared of all
nap, baring the weave.

=Drying frame=—any contrivance for drying underwear, hosiery, etc., in
shape and without loss of size, the garment being pulled over same and
adjusted; some of these frames are made of wood, others of spring wire,
etc.

=Dubbing=—a preparation for softening and waterproofing leather.

=Dub=—(1) in weaving, to dress with teazels for raising a nap (see
Teazeling); (2) in leather making, the act or process of rubbing in a
softening or waterproof mixture or dressing.

=Duck=—a heavy, strong, plain woven linen or cotton fabric similar to,
but of lighter weight than, canvas, used for summer clothing, hospital,
army and navy uniforms, and as vestings, etc. In weaving, two threads of
warp are laid side by side and treated as one.

=Dude=—not worth description.

=Duds=—clothes.

=Duffels=—an old-time heavy woolen cloaking with a thick tufted or
knotted nap, originally made in Duffel, Flanders; match cloth.

=Duffle bag=—about the same as Wangan b (qv).

=Dull=—in the shoe trade, a general term indicating a distinction
between bright or patent (or enamel leathers) and calf, kid and other
mat or dull finisht leathers.

=Dumbbells=—link cuff buttons with rigid bars; name from having
originally been made with plain balls at either end, resembling
dumbbells.

=Dummy=—a figure on which clothes are displayed; a “form” (qv).

=Dummy box coat=—not a real c.; an unusable c., carried by coachmen for
show; an illustration of the economics of snobbery.

=Dummy buttonhole=—not cut thru but stitcht on the surface only, for
purposes of ornament.

=Dummy try-on=—a basted-together fictitious “try-on” of linings and
interlinings “fitted” to the customer while the actual coat is being
made up without t.-o. or fitting; a device of “cheap tailors” to save
the expense of try-ons. Compare Bluff try-on.

=Dumps=—skates. See “High dutchers”.

=Dun=—a result of not paying your bills.

=Dunce cap=—a tall, conical paper c. awarded to some luckless scholar in
the old days for lack of brilliancy and worn, for the weal of the class,
in some prominent corner of the room, or on a seat by the teacher.
“Those were happy days”. Also called Fool’s c.

=Dundee=—a twill-finisht thibet, made to imitate unfinisht worsted.

=Dundrearys=—long, flowing side whiskers.

=Dungaree=—in the British navy a fine quality of blue jeans used for
sailors’ shirt collars, watch-marks on sleeves, etc.; also in a coarse
grade for working clothes; in the American navy a coarse cotton stuff
similar to denim; a term commonly used in reference to navy working
clothes.

=Dungaree junipers=—(=navy=) a blouse of blue denim, single-breasted
sack pattern, buttoned to the neck and loosely fitting; worn by enlisted
men on working duty.

=Dungaree trousers=—(=navy=) working t. of blue denim, made with a fly
instead of with front falls, worn by enlisted men.

=Dunnage bag=—a large, long b., commonly of canvas, for laundry, etc.

=Dunrobin=—a fine Scotch plaid.

=Durance=—lasting (qv). (Same as below?)

=Durant=—a strong, close-grained woolen stuff of Revolutionary times.

=Dust=—an article kept in stock in large quantities in all mercantil
establishments and usually hard to move save by continued exertion.

=Dust coat=—same as Duster.

=Dust shield=—see Wind s.

=Duster=—a light overcoat of linen, mohair or other thin fabric, once
extensivly used for traveling or driving.

=Dutch metal=—an alloy from which much of the “gold” lace of commerce is
manufactured.

=Duttees=—the coarse brown calicoes of India.

=Duxbak=—proprietary name for a semi-waterproof canvas used for sporting
and rough weather clothing.

=Dye bath=—a solution of coloring matter for dyeing purposes.

=Dyebeck=—same as Dye bath.

=Dyeing=—the art and operation of coloring textil fabrics by immersion
in a properly prepared bath; dyes are chiefly vegetable or anilin, and a
source of anguish if they fade unduly. See an encyclopedia.

=Dyer=—one who dyes fabrics.

=Dyer’s weed=—see Woad.

=Dye-stuff=—any material used for dyeing.


                                   E

=Ear caps=—see E. muffs.

=Ear flaps=—those parts of a cap that may be turned down to cover and
protect the ears from cold.

=Ear guards=—padded leather protectors worn by footballers.

=Ear lock=—the lock of hair curling over or near the ear; any lock of
hair on the side of the head; a love lock.

=Ear muffs=—pads or m. for wear over the ears in cold weather, usually
of velvet, held in place by an elastic cord or metal spring. Popular in
St. Louis with the first touch of frost.

=Ear rings=—jewelry worn in the ears, the lobs of which are pierced for
the purpose; once upon a time gentlemen wore them; nowadays noticed
mostly on foreign laborers.

=Ear tabs=—see E. flaps and E. muffs.

=Ear whiskers=—short tufts of scrub reaching to the depth of the ears.

=Easter=—tailor’s harvest time.

=Eating apron=—a garment for young children, having a bib and sleeves
made of one piece; also an a. without sleeves.

=Eau de Cologne=—a strongly perfumed toilet water; properly, that for
which the city of Cologne is celebrated. In this city the industry was
establisht in the beginning of the 17th century by Paul Feminis and
Maria Clementine, a nun, jointly possessing the secret and conducting
the business; at his death Feminis bequeathed the formula to the Farina
family, while the nun left it to Peter Schaeben; both families still
carry on the business and are the leading manufacturers.

=Ecru=—raw color, as of silk, linen, etc.; unbleacht.

=Edge baster=—in ready-to-wear clothing manufacture, a workman who
finishes the work begun by the straighteners, underbasters and edge
operators, by turning in the outer part and facing (of a coat) and
basting the edges preparatory to final felling and stitching.

=Edge operator=—in ready-to-wear clothing manufacture, a workman who
does only the first seaming of coat edges.

=Edge setting=—the process of burnishing the edges of shoe soles on a
lathe-like machine called an e. setter.

=Edge trimming=—see foregoing.

=Edges=—the e. of coats, waistcoats, etc., are variously denominated,
according to manner of making and finish, blind e., bluff e., braided
e., bound e., corded e., double-stitcht e., felled e., piped e., plain
e., prickt e., raw e., single-stitcht e., etc., which see.

=Effect threads=—weaving term for decorativ threads of different colors
added to worsted and woolen fabrics, usually of mercerized cotton or
silk, or resist-dyed wool or worsted.

=Effigeen=—an old-time lining fabric.

=Egyptian=—trade term for cotton grown in the Nile districts of Africa;
very silky, smooth and strong; more commonly known as Maco.

=Eiderdown=—a thick woolen-pile fabric, woven on a cotton stockinet
body.

=Elastic canvas=—a plain-woven fabric of linen or cotton, unbleacht or
bleacht, of various weights, used for stiffening garments.

=Elastic gore=—a woven tape-like fabric, made in such a manner with
rubber threads that it forms an elastic tape or goring which is inserted
in the sides of a shoe immediately over the ankles, made so that the
shoe may be stretcht and drawn on and held on the foot by this elastic
goring, no lacing being used in this style of shoe which is commonly
known as Congress shoe or gaiter.

=Elastic seam=—proprietary term for a make of undergarments of jeans,
nainsook, etc., having strips of elastic knitted material let in between
seams, or in places of strain, etc.

=Elastic stocking=—a s. of silk and rubber threads for reducing
swelling, aiding the muscles, etc.

=Elastic twill=—a fine flexible cloth used for dress wear.

=Elastic webbing=—any garter or suspender w. of silk, cotton or other
material having interwoven threads of pure rubber.

=Elasticity test=—to determin the quality and e. of silk thread, take a
yard of thread and hold it firmly in each hand on some set table or
object, and keeping one hand stationary, start to stretch it. If it
breaks off short there is either cotton or other adulterant.

=Elbow sleeves=—term for undershirts with sleeves reaching to the
elbows.

=Electric seal=—imitation sealskin, usually muskrat or cat.

=Electric tanning=—treatment by electric current in connection with the
astringent liquor, to hasten conversion into leather.

=Elegant=—a French dude.

=Elevator-boy’s suit=—same as Hall-boy’s s.

=Elk skin=—a soft, pliable, oilless leather, usually made of calf s. and
tanned by a chemical process; used chiefly for athletic and sporting
shoes.

=Ell=—a measure of length as for cloth, having different values in
different places, and now rarely used; in England an ell is 45 inches,
in Scotland 37 inches.

=Elysian=—a fine grade of overcoating cloth, having the nap laid in
diagonal lines or ripples, something like, but rougher than Chinchilla,
and with straighter hair.

=Embroidered=—ornamented with fancifully workt designs in stitches.

=Emerald=—a green precious stone anciently considered an enemy of
impurity and that would break if it but toucht the skin of an adulterer.

=En regle=—in high ceremonious attire.

=Enameled collar=—a shirt c. made of a material composed of two sheets
of white paper between which was a connecting layer of thin muslin
showing thru the paper sides, after pressure, with a cloth-like effect;
invented in 1857. Since made entirely of paper, the surfaces stampt to
imitate cloth.

=Enameled leather=—a heavy kind of upper leather finisht with a shiny
surface like patent leather, but in which a figure or pebble has been
workt into the surface of the enamel.

=End=—technical term for a thread of warp or weft.

=Ends=—remnants.

=Engagement ring=—something you work hard to save up for so she can
“show off” among her friends until she finds someone else to buy her a
more gorgeous one, when you may, if lucky, get it back.

=Engineer’s cap=—a flat crowned, nearly straight c., made on a band,
with a large visor.

=Engineer’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White u.,
Service u., Fatigue u., et var.

=English foot=—trade term for hosiery made with a seam at either side of
the sole. See French f.

=English mourning crepe=—see Crepe.

=English square=—imposing name for a readymade scarf with flaring ends
(about 1900).

=English waist=—trade term for trousers made very high in the back.

=English walking coat=—a single-breasted cutaway frock c. with hip
pockets, usually made of fabrics less sedate than the formal black goods
used for the cutaway frock or morning c. (qv).

=English yarns=—worsted y. that have been well oiled before combing,
resulting in a smooth level yarn in which the fibers lie nearly parallel
to each other. Compare French y.

=Enlisted men’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Dress, Undress, Working dress;
(=army=) Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u.;
(=marine corps=) Full dress, Undress, Field u.; (=revenue cutter
service=) Full dress, Service dress. See also variations.

=Ensanguined undergarment=—a variant of “bloody shirt”.

=Ensign’s uniform=—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service
dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress. Also variations.

=Enweave=—to intertwine or intermix by weaving; another form of inweave.

=Epaulet=—an ornamental badge of rank worn by certain officers of army,
navy, etc., on the shoulders of the coat, usually a sort of plastron of
gold bullion with gold fringe, and bearing insignia of rank. Now largely
supplanted by shoulder knots, shoulder straps, etc. (=Epaulette.=)

=Epauls Americaines=—French poking fun (?) at our wadded shoulders. See
American shoulders.

=Epigonation=—a lozenge-shaped ornament of stiffened silk bearing a
cross or picture, worn hanging from the girdle by the Greek and Russian
ministry.

=Epiminikia=—bands resembling the Latin maniple (qv) worn by bishops,
priests and deacons in the Greek and Russian churches, those for bishops
being richly ornamented.

=Episcopal ring=—a gold r., usually set with a large amethyst,
symbolizing that the wearer (a bishop) is wedded to his diocese.

=Epitrachelion=—a long, narrow stole worn by priests of the Greek and
Russian churches, resembling the Latin pallium (qv).

=Equi-pede=—a horseman’s coat, ample skirted and long enough to cover
the mounted rider (saddle and all) from neck to boots, a coat and apron
in one, quickly and easily contracted to the size of a sack covert coat
for walking and dismounted work generally.

=Erect=—not stooping.

=Erkens’ worsted=—a fine, close twilled worsted dress or coating cloth
resembling Venetian, the twills apparently crossing each other. (From
name of German manufacturer.)

=Espardènas=—see Alpargatas.

=Estamene=—similar to serge, but having a rough, nappy face resembling
cheviot.

=Etamine=—a light woolen cloth similar to batiste and nun’s cloth.

=Etiquette=—the formalities or usages of social or professional
intercourse.

=Etoffe=—French for cloth.

=Eton collar=—a folded shirt c., usually of white linen of medium hight
stand, but with a broad turnover of nearly uniform width all around,
folded at an angle; worn by boys.

=Eton jacket=—a short j. without collar or lapels, reaching only to the
waist line, first worn by the boys of Eton College.

=Etruscan gold=—luster removed by acid, leaving it satiny yellow.

=Eugenie’s wigs=—knitted montero caps (qv) presented by Empress Eugenie
to the Arctic exploration of 1875, and so dubbed by the jackies.

=Even exchange=—retail trade term, meaning the exchange of purchases for
something else without there being any difference in price.

=Evening dress=—the swallowtail and Tuxedo as opposed to frock coats for
day dress and sack coats for business and lounge wear; vulgarly “full
dress”.

=Evening dress A=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn on occasions of ceremony
in the evening, to which officers are invited in their official
capacity, such as public balls, dinners and evening receptions. Consists
of—for all commissioned officers except chaplains, chief boatswains,
chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers—evening dress coat,
evening dress waistcoat (blue), full dress trousers, cockt hat,
epaulets, sword and full dress belt, black tie, white gloves; for
chaplains the same as “Evening Dress B”; for midshipmen, the same as
prescribed for commissioned officers, substituting the blue cap for the
cockt hat and shoulder knots for epaulets. On occasions where the full
uniform would not be appropriate “Evening dress A” may be prescribed
without swords and belts and with blue caps instead of cockt hats; or in
hot weather, or in appropriate circumstances, mess dress with full dress
trousers may be ordered.

=Evening dress B=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn at social evening
occasions where officers are invited in their official capacity, and at
dinner on board vessels other than those of the fourth rate by officers
for whom the evening dress coat has been prescribed (except when the
uniform of the day has been white). Consists of—for all commissioned
officers (except chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and
chief sailmakers) and for midshipmen: evening dress coat, evening dress
waistcoat, blue (unless white is ordered), undress trousers (unless full
dress trousers are ordered), blue cap, black tie. In hot weather or
under other appropriate circumstances mess dress may be substituted.

=Evening dress coat=—a skirted c. with the foreparts cut off at the
waistline, the skirts commencing at the hips and gradually narrowing
downward, the front made with long-roll lapels, not to button, tho
furnished with buttons and buttonholes on each side, the lapels usually
faced with silk; invariably made of fine black cloth and properly lined
with black silk.

=Evening dress coat=—(=navy=) a uniform c. similar to a civilian’s e. d.
c., of dark blue cloth with 3 large navy buttons on each breast, well
spaced, two at the waist behind and one at the bottom of each fold, with
sleeve marks and epaulets as prescribed for frock c.; always worn open.
For chaplains the same with black silk buttons.

=Evening dress shield=—see Shirt protector.

=Evening dress shirt=—trade term for fine quality white d. s. with extra
large bosoms.

=Evening dress trousers=—plain t. of same goods as the coat, but
slightly shaped, and sometimes with a stripe of fancy braid down the
outside seams; in trousers for wear with the dinner jacket (Tuxedo) the
braid is omitted.

=Evening dress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant
and all other officers, of dark blue cloth, cut after the prevailing
style of civilian’s evening dress, but with long snug fitting waist,
without pockets or buckle straps, suspender buttons inside the band,
outseams trimmed with 1¼ inch stripe of gold lace. Also white t. for
wear with white mess jacket, of same cut but without stripe on outseams.

=Evening dress uniform=—(=army=) a special full d. u. authorized for
wear on occasions of ceremony to which officers are invited in their
official capacity, such as balls, official dinners and receptions, etc.:
an evening dress coat of dark blue cloth cut on the lines of the
civilian dress coat, with regulation gilt buttons, of same number and
placed as prescribed, the sleeves ornamented in same manner as full
dress uniform coats; an evening waistcoat of dark blue or white with
three small regulation buttons; also full dress trousers for all
officers except those of engineers, cavalry, artillery and infantry, who
wear dark blue trousers without stripes; patent leather shoes and full
dress cap; shoulder ornaments, etc., per regulations. For occasions of
special formality the u. for evening functions is the same as full dress
dismounted u.; and this may be worn at above described occasions at
discretion. On proper occasions, which are not official in character,
officers are permitted to wear civilian evening dress.

=Evening dress waistcoat=—a w. cut low to expose the shirt bosom, the
garment being most properly single-breasted, 3 or 4 buttons and 2
pockets, and the opening either V or U shape, with a shawl collar, which
is sometimes trimmed with a row of fancy braid. May be of black cloth to
match coat and trousers or of white wash fabrics or silk, which latter
may be plain or have a small figured pattern.

=Evening dress waistcoat=—(=navy=) similar to a civilian’s e. d. w., of
dark blue cloth with four small gilt navy buttons (or black silk buttons
for chaplains). The “white evening dress” w. to be of same style but of
duck or similar material (if for chaplains with white buttons). (=Marine
corps=) for all officers; of same material as corresponding mess jacket,
single-breasted with four small marine corps buttons, rolling collar.

=Evening jacket=—see Dinner j.

=Everlasting=—a cloth used for breeches during the latter part of the
18th century, mostly for servants’ wear.

=Examiner=—in the apparel trades one who closely scrutinizes finisht
garments for detection and correction of errors, flaws, etc. His
criticism, which is final, sometimes results in further changes.

=Exchange=—to receive back goods bought and give the purchaser something
else in the place thereof.

=Expenses=—the one thing that makes the boss sit up nights.

=Exposure test=—generally, exposing a piece of cloth or other material,
article or substance, to the weather, continuously for a number of days
(usually on a roof or in some place where it is not likely to be meddled
with) for determination of color, quality, etc.

=Express paid=—sent, not (?) at the receiver’s expense.

=Exquisite=—an ineffable clothes-wearing nuisance.

=Extension shoulders=—deceptivly broad.

=Extension tree=—a shoe t. having a spring, ratchet or other device for
stretching the shoe longitudinally.

=Extra=—a substitute or temporary clerk.

=Extra stout=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit extra
corpulent or very fat persons.

=Extras=—anything or lots of things not contemplated in the price; the
“nigger-in-the-woodpile” reason for many low prices.

=Extract wool=—wool produced from waste or clips which are of mixt
wool-and-cotton, the wool being extracted by a process of carbonization.

=Extracted=—dyeing term indicating that patterns or designs in colors
differing from the general ground color, or in white, have been achieved
by (1) acid treatment, (2) bleaching, (3) tying and dyeing, (4)
mordanting, etc. See Batik, Bandanna, etc.

=Eye shield=—a silk or papier mache s. worn to protect weak eyes against
light; also to hide the effects of “somebody bumping into it the night
before.”

=Eyeglasses=—lenses suitably mounted for attachment to the bridge of the
nose, differing from spectacles in needing no bows across the temples or
behind the ears; pince nez.

=Eyeglass chain=—a safety device of gold or other metal.

=Eyeglass cord=—a light silk c. for attaching eye-glasses to the clothes
or person to prevent loss.

=Eyeglass holder=—a case for holding eye-glasses when not in use; of
various styles, as hinged, open-end, etc., usually of leather or
leather-covered metal.

=Eyelet=—a small hole, workt around with buttonhole stitching.

=Eyeshade=—a sort of visor for protecting the eyes from the glare of
strong light.


                                   F

=Face=—the right side or outer surface of a fabric or material.

=Face=—the table or (exposed) upper part of a brilliant cut diamond or
other precious stone.

=Face cloth=—a c. laid on the face of a dead person.

=Face cloth=—a wash c.

=Face finish=—meaning, in the textil trades, the manner in which the
face or outerside of a fabric is finisht; as clear f., doeskin f.,
unfinisht, etc., which see.

=Face guard=—a mask or covering worn by workers in chemical
laboratories; or by fencers, or baseball players, etc.

=Faced=—having an over or underlying strip of same or different material
for purposes of appearance or re-enforcement. See Facing.

=Faced cloth=—fabrics having a finisht face, as worsteds, in opposition
to fabrics such as tweeds, cheviots, etc.

=Facet=—one of the small triangular plane surfaces of a diamond or other
gem.

=Facing=—tailoring term for an underlying or overlying strip or
re-enforcement of material, the same as or different from that of the
garment, as (1) the strip along the inside of coat openings which also
form the face of the lapels or revers; (2) the strips of goods inside
the openings of pockets so that the eyes shall not be offended with
lining showing thru; (3) the covering of silk laid on lapels or revers,
to the edge or to the buttonholes; (4) the contra-colored cloth, showing
on the turned back skirts or revers of old-time military coats; (5) the
strip of cloth extending all around the inside edges of a waistcoat from
neck to bottom side seam, which is sometimes of undercollar cloth for
the sake of a thinner edge; and so forth.

=Faconne=—figured; usually employed in connection with fancy silks.

=Factory cotton=—unbleacht domestic cotton goods in contrast to those
which are imported.

=Factory yarn=—coarse, unscoured woolen y., used for knitting hose,
mittens, etc.

=Fad=—the current vogue; transient popularity.

=Fad=—a hobby.

=Faga=—a narrow strip or sash of silk wound several times around the
waist. (Spain).

=Faille Francaise=—a soft, lustrous silk fabric of wider cord than
gros-grain, but narrower than ottoman.

=Fair=—see Cotton classification.

=Fair shake=—a fair bargain.

=Fal lal=—any gaudy or trifling ornament or trinket; foppish frippery.

=Falding=—a kind of frieze, mentioned by Chaucer, approximating the
coarse red woolen stuff still worn by Irish peasant women for petticoats
and jackets.

=Fall bearer=—that part of broadfall trousers forming the front waist
band, and to which the fall or flap is buttoned; the b. also contains
the pockets. See Broadfalls. Compare Narrow falls.

=Fall down=—one of the old names for broadfalls (qv).

=Fall weight=—in the cloth trade suitings of 12 to 16 ounces and
overcoatings of 16 to 24 ounces are so known. Compare Winter w., Spring
w., Summer w., Tropical w.

=Falling band=—(1) a sort of wide turned down collar, usually of linen,
plain or ornamented, sometimes with floating ends or tabs; worn over the
neck of the doublet or jerkin of old days; (2) an ecclesiastical
neckdressing.

=Falling collar=—see Prussian c.

=False face=—what we begged pennies for when young.

=False hair=—someone else’s tho it covers your own bald spots.

=False teeth=—of great utilitarian value but, alack! also signs of
immoderate vanity.

=Family umbrella=—facetious term for old-fashioned extra large u.

=Fan=—once fops carried them; nowadays women.

=Fan=—the side of a cockt hat.

=Fancies=—any merchandise not classed as staples or regulars; novelties.

=Fancy back=—general term for fabrics having a pattern on the back or
underside differing from that on the face, as certain fancy
overcoatings, raincoatings, etc.

=Fancy dress ball=—an occasion where one can spend a good deal of money
on a costume that may never be worn again—unless he rents some trumpery
from a costumer, which nice folk are squeamish about doing.

=Fang=—a broken or protuberant tooth.

=Farmer’s satin=—properly a satin wove fabric having a cotton warp and
worsted filling, finisht with a high luster, used for coat linings,
etc.; also called Italian cloth.

=Fashion=—the prevailing mode.

=Fashion artist=—a perverse individual who has trances twice a year or
oftener for the benefit of clothing manufacturers and fashion journals.

=Fashion doll=—a device once extensivly used to display fashions in
miniature.

=Fashion monger=—one who affects scrupulous attention to fashion; a
dandy.

=Fashion-plate=—an engraving or other pictorial representation of the
prevailing fashions of any period.

=Fashion writer=—a has-been or going-to-be literary hack who need never
be taken seriously.

=Fashionable=—conforming to the prevailing mode; approved.

=Fashionable back width=—tailoring term indicating a change in
measurement of the back to correspond fashionably with width of
shoulder.

=Fashionable tailor=—one who gets the highest prices and who
consequently caters only to the wealthy classes; one to whom every
manufacturer of readymade clothing goes for his own clothes and for
ideas for his business.

=Fashionable waist=—tailoring term. See Waist.

=Fast color=—applied to colors supposed not to fade in washing or thru
exposure.

=Fast dye=—fast color; unfading.

=Fat man’s frock=—a cutaway frock coat, only the top button of which is
intended for use; also called “one button cutaway”.

=Fat man’s sack=—a sack coat made to be buttoned only at the top button,
and cut away slightly from that point downward.

=Fatigue blouse=—(=masonic=) a 5 button, single-breasted, straight front
sack coat, without pockets and with Prussian collar. Compare Commander’s
coat and Sir Knight’s coat.

=Fatigue coat=—(=army=) for enlisted men: a single-breasted sack c. of
brown cotton duck, of prescribed pattern.

=Fatigue trousers=—(=army=) for enlisted men: of brown cotton duck,
without stripes.

=Fatigue uniform=—(=army=) for enlisted men dismounted: worn on fatigue
or stable duty: f. coat, and trousers, service hat, russet leather
shoes.

=Favors=—more or less costly trivialities distributed at cotillons.

=Fay, to=—to fit. “Your coat fays well”. This obsolete form, a
curtailment of “fadge”, and in use during the Augustan age of English
literature, is occasionally encountered in New England.

=F. B. Q.=—proprietary name for a well-known make of ready-to-wear
clothing, meaning “finest beyond question”.

=Fearnought=—a heavy fulled woolen fabric used for sailors’ overcoats
and clothing; sometimes called Dreadnought.

Fearnought—(weaving term). See Mixing picker.

=Feather=—a channel about ⅛ inch deep, extending around the edges of a
shoe sole, along and into which holes for the stitches are pierced
obliquely.

=Feather top=—see Wig.

=Feathers=—when commingled with tar a punitiv form of clothing worn next
the body; occasionally met with in communities of zealously guarded
morality.

=Featherweight=—very light or summery.

=Fedora=—a soft felt hat, the crown having a crease in the center from
front to back. See Hombourg, Alpine, Tyrolean, etc.

=Feel=—see Handle.

=Fell=—felling is the act of sewing one piece of material onto another;
to turn in a seam.

=Fell=—archaic for hides or pelts; also used in the sense of hairy.

=Felled edge=—a variety of plain or blind e. (qv), hand-finisht, with a
felling stitch (qv), obtaining a perfectly plain surface.

=Felled pocket=—a jetted p.

=Fellers=—see Finishers.

=Felling, French=—see French f.

=Felling silk=—see Sewing s.

=Felling stitch=—an over-and-over continuous s. used to fasten linings
onto the outer body, to hold bindings to the edge, join under-collars to
body, etc., the closeness of the stitches being regulated according to
the purpose for which they are used.

=Fellmonger=—a trader in skins, furs, etc.

=Fellware=—skins, furs, etc.

=Felt=—properly a fabric made by interlocking or compacting wool, fur or
hair, or a mixture thereof, by rolling or pressure, without weaving,
often with the aid of glue and heat; used extensivly in garment
trimming, etc; also a woven fabric whose fibers are matted by shrinking
or otherwise.

=Felt shoes=—s. made out of felt, wholly or in part.

=Fencing glove=—a padded g., with a deep cuff or gauntlet.

=Fencing mask=—a wire m. for the face, so constructed as to be quickly
removable.

=Fencing plastron=—a padded and quilted leather or canvas chest and side
protector with a heart sewed on to jab at.

=Ferrandine=—an old-time cloth, similar to poplin, of silk or silk and
wool or silk and mohair, once used for waistcoats.

=Ferrule=—the metal end-tip of an umbrella rod or cane.

=Fez=—a brimless felt cap in the shape of a truncated cone, usually red
with a black tassel, worn especially by Turks and Shriners.

=Fibrilia=—a textil material made from the fibers of flax, jute, china
grass, hemp, etc., and used as a substitute for more valuable fibers;
used to a limited extent in the manufacture of hosiery, blankets, etc.,
in the proportion of 1 part to 3 of wool, cotton, etc.

=Fiddle=—tailoring term for supererogatory attentions toward a customer.

=Fiddleback=—irreverent name for the modern chasuble.

=Field belt=—(=army=) a b. of russet leather worn by enlisted men.

=Field breeches=—(=marine corps=) of khaki serge or drill, to match f.
coat, without stripe, welt or cord, loose above knees and about seat,
fitting closely below knees and extending to tops of shoes, fastening
with buttons and lacing or all lacing; seat re-enforced, suspender
buttons inside of band, 4 belt loops. For major general command and all
officers. White b. of same style may be worn by mounted officers in the
tropics when not on duty.

=Field coat=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all other
officers, of khaki serge or drill, of the same design as the white
undress c. (qv) except without vent for sword, and with bronze buttons;
rank devices as for white c.; for non-commissioned officers, drummers,
trumpeters and privates, a single-breasted c. of 8 oz. khaki-colored
cotton material, cut half close, with standing collar, in length
reaching to the crotch and closed with 5 marine corps buttons, one
outside bellows-plait patch pocket, with flap in each breast, other
trimmings, details, etc., as prescribed.

=Field dress=—(=marine corps=) worn by all officers and men (1) in
garrison when prescribed by the commanding officer, or in the tropics;
(2) for duty under arms in garrison under foregoing conditions; (3) at
drills, target practice, maneuvers, and on marches when prescribed; (4)
in the field when prescribed; (5) when serving with marine battalions
afloat in the warm season or in the tropics, when prescribed. Consists
of, for all officers: f. coat, f. trousers or breeches, russet leather
puttees or leggings, f. hat and cord or white helmet, sword with undress
belt (leather slings) and knot, russet shoes; if mounted, spurs and drab
leather gloves; in the field, the flannel shirt prescribed for enlisted
men may be worn, in place of the f. coat, with rank devices on the
collar and with khaki scarf. For enlisted men: (in this case called f.
uniform): f. coat, f. trousers, leggings, f. hat, russet shoes, arms and
accouterments as ordered; in the field, the khaki shirt may be worn, in
place of the khaki coat, with a web belt.

=Field hat=—(=marine corps=)for non-commissioned officers, drummers,
trumpeters and privates, of felt, as sample in Quartermaster’s office;
worn creased from front to rear; ornaments, etc., of bronze, in front;
for all officers, of felt, the same as for enlisted men, creased from
front to rear, with a double cord of scarlet-and-gold with acorns at
ends; bronze corps device in front.

=Field stock=—same as stock or neck s.

=Field trousers=—(=marine corps=)for major general commandant and all
other officers, of same material as f. coat, without stripe, welt or
cord; may be worn without leggings in camp or garrison; for
non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates of same
material as coat and same pattern as white linen undress t.

=Field uniform=—see F. dress.

=Fielder’s glove=—a heavily padded, stout leather g., with a web
(connected) thumb, worn by baseball players.

=Fielder’s mitt=—about same as basemen’s m. (qv).

=Fifth avenue=—a street in New York city supposed to house the elite and
elect of tailordom in America; also specially mentioned for its Sunday
dress parades of the “smart set”, and particularly that of Easterday. A
name also prominently figuring on the window price tickets of misfit
shops.

=Fig leaf=—a primitiv and scanty form of makeshift garment invented by
Adam and Eve, the first garment makers of history, sufficiently
described by its name; now obsolete to the relief of the W. C. T. U., Y.
M. C. A., et al.

=Fighting gloves=—see Boxing g.

=Fil au Chinois=—name given to a well-known ball linen thread made in
France, waxt ready for use and of extra strength, for tailors,
shoemakers, dressmakers, leather-workers, etc.

=Fil au Tonkinois=—a stout sewing thread similar to fil au Chinois.

=Fil guipe=—a rolled or covered thread or cord of silk and tinsel,
usually with cotton center, used in manufacture of trimming laces, etc.

=Filature=—the delicate untwisted silk threads as reeled from the
cocoons, also called raw silk.

=File silk=—a fonetic corruption. See Faille Francaise.

=Filibeg=—the Highland kilt.

=Filled cloth=—general term for any woolen cloth that has been felted or
loaded with flocks (qv) for weight, body or strength—or cheapness.

=Filler cork=—ground c. mixt with rubber cement or some sticky substance
and used for filling in the hollow in the bottom of a shoe before the
outer sole is placed on or attacht to a shoe.

=Filler felt=—a piece of f. used instead of cork filler, for the same
purpose and in the same way.

=Filling=—the woof or weft threads of a woven fabric.

=Financial circles=—slang for dollars.

=Findings=—the required amounts of canvas, wigan, holland, tape, lining,
felt, haircloth, buttons, etc., necessary to a garment.

=Fine=—see Wool.

=Fine=—term used in connection with gold or bullion trimming braids,
indicating highest quality (in the sense, perhaps, that f. gold means
pure). An inferior quality is known as mi-fine.

=Fine as silk=—a simile of comparison, implying excellence.

=Fine cut=—a delectable preparation of nicotiana tabacum.

=Fine delaine=—wool classification term. See Wool.

=Fine-draw=—to sew and close up a rent, seam, etc., with fine thread and
delicate workmanship so that the joint is scarcely perceptible. See
next.

=Fine-drawing stitch=—a practically invisible s. employed when the
material is too thin or too ravelly for stoating or rentering, and for
mending tears. The edges are placed together, as in stoating, except
that they are not trimmed, the fray helping to cover the join. A fine
needle and fine silk must be used. The needle passes in and out,
catching the material lightly and without coming to the surface on the
right side, making very short stitches and purposely coming uneven
distances on either side of the join, distributing the strain, which
would be plainly visible were the distances even.

=Fine-tooth comb=—a search warrant. (Definition vulgar.)

=Finery=—gay apparel; gewgaws; good things to avoid.

=Finger cot=—a covering of leather, rubber, etc., for protection to
injured fingers.

=Finger guard=—(1) a protectiv shield of leather, rubber, etc., worn by
marksmen, sailmakers, corn huskers, etc.; (2) a f. cot or stall, or
protectiv covering, worn in case of accidents, by workers in chemicals,
etc.

=Finger ring=—something affording a fine chance for the display of one’s
bad taste; nowadays just a gaud; formerly of much significance.

=Finishers=—in clothing manufacture, expert needleworkers who fell-on or
“finish” the basted-on collars, sleeves, linings, etc.

=Finishing=—general term for any and all the processes of preparing
fabrics for market, as fulling, steaming, shearing, singeing,
calendering, glazing, inspecting, etc.

=Finishing=—a process in hat manufacture where, after blocking and
subsequent hydraulic pressure, stiff hats are placed upon wooden blocks
and by manipulation with pouncing paper, etc., are smoothed and
polished, and the brims trimmed to model dimensions.

=Fir wool=—see Pine w.

=Fire=—the interposition of Providence to (some) shopkeepers.

=Fire Department uniforms=—(=Chicago=) =Dress coat=: a double-breasted
close-fitting sack c. of dark blue cloth, made to button close to the
neck with combination lapel-rolling collar; of a length reaching to the
tips of the fingers, with 2 inside breast pockets, no outside pockets
but with a double-scalloped flap, as for a pocket, on each breast
outside; 2 buttons on each sleeve and with buttons on breast as follows:
marshal, 9 each breast, grouped in 3’s; assistant marshal and chiefs of
battalion, 8 each breast, in pairs; company officers, 4 each breast,
equidistant; firemen, same as for company officers, but no sleeve
buttons. =Fatigue coat=: a single-breasted square cut sack c. of dark
blue flannel, of same general specifications; vest and trousers to
match. =Overcoat=: a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue cloth, with
combination lapel-rolling collar, buttoning close to the neck, with same
number and arrangement of buttons as described under Dress c. except
that there are 5 on each breast, equidistant, for company officers and
men; the coat in length 2 inches below knee; all seams lapt, raw; the
skirt to be cut on the fold of the goods without opening, with 2 buttons
at waist seam and 2 on each side of skirt plaits; 1 outside breast and 2
outside skirt pockets with scallopt flaps; 1 inside breast pocket.
Insignia per regulations.

=Fire department uniforms=—(=New York=) =Dress coat=: a double-breasted
close-fitting sack c. of dark blue cloth, cut to button to the neck,
with rolling collar, and to reach midway between hip and knee, without
outside pockets but with 2 inside breast pockets, lining of red cloth or
flannel, 3 buttons on each sleeve and on the breast as follows: for
chief of department, 2 rows of 8, grouped in pairs; for deputy chief of
department and chiefs of battalion, same except spaced equidistant; for
company officers, 2 rows of 7, equidistant; for engineers of steamers
and men, a single-breasted squarecut c. with 6 buttons; in summer an
unlined c. of dark blue flannel; vest and trousers to match. =Overcoat=:
a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue cloth, reaching to the knee,
made to button close to the neck, with 2 rows of 8 buttons grouped in
pairs for chief of department and for all other officers and members 2
rows of 5 equidistant; the body and skirt to be lined with red cloth or
flannel; the skirt, which is open behind, trimmed with 2 rows of 3
buttons; 3 buttons on each sleeve; no outside pockets, but 1 inside
breast pocket. For officers attacht to fireboats, a double-breasted sack
overcoat, buttoning to neck with 5 buttons on each breast, spaced
equally; ulster collar; 2 circular outside breast pockets; length ⅔ of
knee; lined with red cloth. Insignia on coats as per regulation.

=Fire marshal’s dress coat=—see Fire department uniforms.

=Fire sale=—faky.

=Fire test=—see Flame t.

=Firemen’s cap=—(=New York=) a dark blue cloth cap of navy pattern, with
visor of black patent leather, with insignia of rank as prescribed by
regulations.

=Firemen’s dress coat=—see Fire department uniforms.

=Firemen’s fatigue coat=—see Fire department uniforms.

=Firemen’s hats=—(=New York=) for summer wear, a hat of Mackinaw straw,
white for all officers (except those attacht to fireboats), and brown
for all other members; sides 3¾ inches high, slightly tapering to crown;
black silk band.

=Firemen’s helmets=—(=New York=) for chief of department, deputy chiefs
and chiefs of battalion, a white helmet with 8 cones having a gilt front
depending from a gilt eaglehead and attacht thereto in front with
insignia of rank painted thereon in black and red, with title in black
letters on scroll of gold; for officers of engine and hook and ladder
companies, same, but of black with a white front, with insignia
variously differentiated; for engineers of steamers, an all-black helmet
with title and number black on white; for firemen of hook and ladder
companies, black with red front, with number, etc., in white.

=Firemen’s overcoat=—see Fire department uniforms.

=First pressing=—in clothing manufacture the operation of pressing-off a
garment, as a coat, preparatory to marking and sewing on buttons.
Compare Underpressing and After p.

=Fish=—a dart or V. See Dart.

=Fish bag=—see Live net.

=Fish-eye face=—trade name for pearl and other buttons having a slightly
rounded f. across which an oval slit is cut holding two holes to sew
thru.

=Fishing boot=—same as hunting b. (qv) without the hobnails.

=Fishing cape=—a plain c. of any waterproof material, worn as a
protection against rain.

=Fishing glove=—a g. of soft leather, loose fitting, with fingers cut
half length.

=Fishing hat=—almost any old thing with a wide brim; name sometimes
applied to a light muslin, wide brimmed h. on a wire frame.

=Fishing helmet=—a sort of storm hat.

=Fitters=—in clothing manufacture the workmen who inspect and assemble
the parts of garments as received from the cutting department.

=Fittings=—tailoring term for the necessary pieces of cloth for facings,
pocket welts, etc. Compare Findings.

=Flambustious=—showy; gaudy; or good; as “we will have a flambustious
time”. If this word is derived from “flam”, a lie or cheat, a certain
transition of meaning has occurred.

=Flame tests=—pure dye silk will shrivel up immediately where flame is
applied, leaving a dull leaden color without fire; weighted silk retains
flame after match is removed and may either shrivel or burn up; cotton
or other substitute or adulterant, except wool, will burn until
consumed; wool chars much like silk.

=Flanging=—a process in hat manufacture subsequent to curling, binding
and trimming, whereby further and final shape is given to the brims.

=Flannel=—(1) general name for a large variety of soft finisht all-wool
fabrics, usually loosely woven of coarse lightly twisted yarns and but
very slightly fulled, tho commonly well teasled. For men’s wear
generally a very superior grade, of twill weave, fulled to a degree
resembling cheviot. See also Mackinaw f., Navy twills, Shirting f.,
Shaker f., Baby f., etc.; (2) weaving term for undyed cloths and suiting
fabrics as they come from the loom and before they reach the dye vat.

=Flannelette=—a stout half-cotton or all-cotton flannel-like fabric,
loom figured and close napt. See Outing cloth.

=Flannels=—colloquial for (1) summer outing suits (usually coat and
trousers) of flannel, properly in white or light colorings; and (2) for
winter woolen undergarments.

=Flap=—a limber hanging part; a covering for pockets in garments.

=Flap=—the shield or falling front part of front fall trousers.

=Flap-pad=—see Pad and Looney.

=Flapped pocket=—a p. with a flap over its opening. Compare Welted p.

=Flare=—an outward spreading or widening, as of the skirts of a coat.

=Flashy=—showy, meretricious.

=Flask funnel=—a device to assist you in not wasting it.

=Flat back=—tailor’s term for a man over-erect with a narrow back and
full chest.

=Flat bound=—in tailoring an edge finish obtained by the use of a wide
silk or other braid laid widely on the face or outer surface and but
narrowly underneath and over the edge, then stitcht onto the two surface
edges and prest, obtaining a flattened effect.

=Flat braid=—formed by a number of threads laid zigzag and crossing each
other alternately over and under. See Silk b.

=Flat button=—not hollowed, or rounded, or shaped in any way—a general
term.

=Flat buttonhole=—see Satin b.

=Flat foot=—needing an arch support (qv).

=Flat goods=—trade term for hosiery, underwear, etc., not soft ribbed or
fashioned.

=Flat iron=—trade term for a style in shoes popular several years ago,
quite pointed at the toe but widening sharply to the ball of the foot,
resembling a flat iron in shape, hence name.

=Flat last=—trade term for shoes with the soles resting flat on the
ground. Compare Rocking l.

=Flat seam=—see Pique s.

=Flat set=—hatter’s term for very flat hat brims.

=Flax comb=—a hatchel.

=Fleece=—see Wool.

=Flesher=—one who fleshes hides.

=Fleshers=—trade name for split glove skins as received from abroad.

=Fleshing=—a process in the curing and dressing of furs and leather:
removing the flesh and fat from the skin.

=Fleshings=—properly, flesh-colored tights; loosely, tights in general,
particularly if liberally exhibiting the anatomy.

=Fleuret silk=—same as Spun s.

=Float=—in weaving, the passage of a filling thread under or over
several warp threads without being engaged by them.

=Flock=—short refuse or finely powdered wool waste or dust used in
finishing cheap woolens. (Flocks.) See Extract wool.

=Floorwalker=—a smooth gentleman, hired to add dignity to a store, who
directs you to some place you did not ask for.

=Florentine=—(1) a heavy silk fabric, woven figured or plain twilled,
chiefly used for waistcoats; (2) a worsted waistcoating material; (3) a
twilled cotton fabric for summer trousers.

=Floret=—trade term for the longest and finest fibers of spun silk (qv)
after carding. (=Fleuret.=)

=Florist=—a shopkeeper with whom young dandies become intimate before
marriage and forget afterward.

=Flossy=—giddy, foppish, fussy, affected (perhaps both in brain and
apparel).

=Flower buttonhole=—see Lapel b.

=Flunky=—(1) liveried man-servant; (2) a toady.

=Flush=—to float or pass weft threads over several warp threads, as in
twill and satin weaving.

=Flushing coat=—something worn about 1825, but not identified.

=Fly=—a placket for closing or fastening together sides or parts of a
garment, as of an overcoat or trousers, so as to conceal the buttons or
other means of fastening. Specially designated as blind f., box f.,
French f., open f. (qv).

=Fly coat=—a long jacket reaching about half way to the knees, worn
previous to the Revolution.

=Fly front=—tailoring term for coats made with an arrangement for
concealing the buttons or other fastenings; a sort of placket of which
the underpart engages the buttons, hooks, etc. Trousers also are f.-f.
(except front falls).

=Fob=—(1) a pendant attachment to a watch, usually of silk, with gold
buckle, slide, ring, seal or other ornament; an article of jewelry most
variously made; (2) a watch pocket in a trousers waistband.

=Fob pocket=—see Watch p.

=Fob ribbon=—heavy, close-woven, plain edged gros-grain or fine ribbed
faille silk r. made especially for watch fobs.

=Fold-back cuffs=—shirt c., usually attacht to the garment, made double
or folded backward. Also called French c.

=Folded collar=—a double or folded-over shirt c., usually high banded.

=Folded cuffs=—see Fold-back c.

=Folding cane=—a walking stick with a concealed joint at about half its
length, to enable it to fold and be carried in a suit case or grip.

=Fool’s cap=—a conical paper c. worn penitentially by the school cut-up.

=Foot bath=—a vessel for bathing the feet.

=Foot boy=—a boy in livery; a page.

=Foot cloth=—(1) a cloth or carpet to walk upon on occasions of
ceremony; (2) a deep housing or state caparison for a horse; a sumptor
c.

=Footease=—proprietary name for a powder to “shake into your shoes” as a
fetich against walking aches.

=Foot-form=—shoes constructed on anatomical or foot-fitting lasts;
orthopedic; waukenphast (qv).

=Foot glove=—a heavy, coarse woolen or felt oversock, worn over shoes
while driving, etc., for warmth.

=Foot hawker=—a peripatetic peddler; a tray or pushcart merchant.

=Foot-mantle=—see Safeguard.

=Foot muff=—a muffler; a fur bag for the feet.

=Foot powder=—a chemical preparation shaken into the shoes for relieving
perspiration, aches, odors, etc.

=Foot scraper=—see Shoe s.

=Foot-sheet=—a square or oblong cloth laid upon floor or chairs for
invalids to sit upon during toilet, changing of bedding, etc.

=Foot-stone=—a small memorial tablet at the foot of a grave.

=Foot-straps=—the buckled straps used to hold down the pantaloons and
trousers of the early part of the last century.

=Foot-warmer=—any contrivance for warming the feet in carriages, in bed,
etc., as (1) a muff, (2) a metal container having slow-burning
cartridges of carbon; (3) a hot brick; (4) a hot-water bottle; (5) an
electric warming pad; (6) a night policeman’s club.

=Football jacket=—a sort of stout canvas cuirass, armless, laced up the
front.

=Football leg guards=—see Shin g.

=Football mouthpiece=—protective chewing gum for scrimmages.

=Football pads=—quilted leather p. for elbows and shoulders, worn inside
the jersey or sweater.

=Football pants=—knickerbockers of canvas, khaki, etc., padded, quilted,
and sometimes with reed guards sewed into the upper leg.

=Football shoe=—a s. laced well down towards toes with ankle-padding,
and spikes or cleats on soles.

=Footgear=—shoes and so forth.

=Foothold=—a light skeleton overshoe of rubber protecting the fore-sole,
but without heel, kept on by a heel strap.

=Footman’s livery=—house dress: footman’s coat, valencia or plush
waistcoat, trousers, shoes, white tie; or court l. (qv); on the
carriage, he should wear the second man’s l.

=Fop=—cross between dandy and dude.

=Forage cap=—a small, low cloth c. with a peak, once worn by officers
and men (U. S. A.) when not in dress uniform.

=Forchet=—old spelling of fourchette (qv).

=Forelock=—a lock of hair growing over the forehead.

=Forepart=—that part of a coat or vest covering the chest.

=Forest wool=—a textil fiber made from pine needles treated with a soda
solution, and otherwise manipulated, spun and woven into a resemblance
of coarse wool, and manufactured on a considerable scale into blankets
and clothing of the cheaper grades, said to be warm and durable; called
wald wolle in Germany, where best known. Compare Xylolin.

=Forester’s uniform=—(=Forestry service=) material a brownish green
woolen or cotton khaki as adopted by the army; coat a combination of the
army officer’s coat and a business sack coat, fitting snugly about chest
but rather loosely about hips and waist, with blouse (Prussian) collar,
2 outside buttoned bellowsed pockets and bronze buttons of the service;
vest optional (?); trousers either ordinary or cavalry style riding
breeches; shirt of gray flannel with 2 buttoned breast pockets; hat of
light-colored felt, similar to army service hat; riding boots or
leggings should be worn with riding breeches and high-topt, heavy shoes,
preferably of surveyor’s or hunting pattern, with trousers; gloves of
buckskin, short or army gauntlet pattern; overcoat same as uniform
material but heavier, double-breasted, ankle length, with deep riding
vent, 2 inside and 2 outside vertical pockets, broad collar.

=Forestry cloth=—a twill woven, clear-finisht worsted fabric of standard
olive-drab color, made in several weights for suitings, coatings,
shirtings, etc. Adopted by the government for the forestry service.

=Fork=—the os coccygis; the crotch.

=Form=—tone, smartness, propriety, stylishness, carriage, appearance,
demeanor.

=Form=—a model or dummy for trying on or displaying any article of
apparel or other merchandise.

=Form fitting=—following the lines of the body closely.

=Forming=—a process in hat manufacture wherein the fur is attracted to a
perforated fan by air-suction, then covered with cloths and dipped in
warm water and afterward “hardened” by careful manipulation and rolling
to make the fibers knit together.

=Forward stock=—the merchandise actually before the customer. Compare
Reserve s.

=Foulard=—properly a light-weight silk fabric, woven plain or twilled,
printed with an all-over pattern, the designs of which are white or
color of the fabric, the background solid color.

=Fountain pen=—doubtless invented to spoil waistcoats.

=Four-cornered cap=—see Mortarboard.

=Four hole=—trade term for buttons pierced with 4 holes or eyes.

=Four hundred=—McAllisterian thaumaturgy.

=Fourchette=—the inner sides of glove fingers. If you will examine a
glove it will be seen that it is cut all of one piece with the exception
of the thumb and the fourchettes, for which the remaining fragments of
the skin are used.

=Four-in-hand=—a long necktie narrow where it goes around the collar but
with widened ends, tied in a sailor knot.

=Fownes=—trade diminutive for the general line of gloves made by Fownes
Bros. & Co., London.

=Fox=—a piece of leather applied over the upper leather of a shoe, next
to the sole, either for ornament or repair. See Foxed.

=Fox=—a canine mammal whose pelt is highly esteemed for winter garments.

=Fox tail=—see Wig.

=Foxt=—a word usually used as f. quarter, f. top or upper. Foxt
designates a peculiar pattern or style for the upper of a shoe.

(=Foxed.=) See Fox.

=Frame=—the metal ribs of an umbrella.

=Frame made=—trade term for fabric gloves knitted without seams.

=Frameless spectacles=—s. (qv) without frame or rim around the lenses.

=Frangipanni=—a perfume derived from or imitating the odor of the (West
Indian) red jasmin.

=Franklin avenue=—a street in St. Louis having a number of small cheap
clothing shops (compare South street and Halstead street); a local
synonym for cheap clothing.

=Fray=—to ravel, to loosen; employed in describing cloth too soft or too
loosely woven to hold stitches in a raw edge or seam.

=Freak=—anything monstrous, extreme in style, vulgarly ostentatious; a
senseless innovation; outre.

=French back=—trade term for a soft-twilled woolen backing of different
weave from the face, formed on the underside of clear-finisht worsteds,
as trouserings, and other fabrics, with the object of increasing weight
or stability without adding appreciably to the cost, or as a means of
reducing cost.

=French back=—an overcoat (a modification of a Chesterfield) with a
graceful shapely back and a long center vent usually reaching to the
waist line, the side seams to the waist line being commonly French prest
inverted plaits; made to button in front with a fly or to button thru as
in a body coat.

=French calf=—indicating calfskin shoe leather produced by (1) a
particular and standard method of tanning or finishing; (2) a c. skin
tanned and finished in France.

=French cambric=—a very fine quality of cambric used for handkerchiefs,
etc.

=French coney=—imitation sealskin.

=French cuffs=—see Fold-back c.

=French edge=—in leather goods manufacture, as luggage, an edge seamed
outwardly, sewn thru and thru; “cobbler sewed”.

=French facing=—the inside cloth facing of a coat, so cut as to extend
around the armholes.

=French fall=—see Falling band.

=French falls=—the top boots of the XVI. century, having wide, flaring
tops that were turned down and then turned up again; also known as
bucket tops.

=French felling=—in tailoring a method of holding two pieces of material
together, as the forepart and the facing of an edge. The parts to be
joined are laid flat, edges even, right sides within. The needle is past
straight thru, at right angles with the edge and close to it from
underneath, upwards. The goods are then turned right side out and the
edge finisht with stitching as desired, the felling being intended to
hold the edge and prevent raveling.

=French fly=—see Blind f.

=French foot=—trade term for hosiery made with a single seam in the
center of the sole. See English f.

=French neck=—(1) in tailoring, meaning a finish given to the back of
the neck of a waistcoat by means of a double strip of lining material
instead of the cloth from which the garment is made, for purposes of
thinness, permitting the coat collar to set closer to the shirt c.; (2)
in underwear, a crocheted instead of a welted or seamed n.

=French percale=—see Percale.

=French prest=—tailoring term applied usually to seams that are sharply
prest; as, the skirts of dress and frock coats; inverted plaits in sack
and overcoats. (F. pressed.)

=French seal=—“electric” seal; imitation.

=French seams=—first sewed outside out, then turned in and sewed again,
so that the edges of the seam are concealed.

=French serge=—a fine twilled, closely woven s.

=French sizes=—name given to various peculiar methods of designating the
sizes of shoes by stamping numerals or letters on the inside lining of
the shoe. See Appendix.

=French system=—weaving term for worsted yarns spun on mules, usually
from shorter staple than required for the Bradford s. (qv), well adapted
for soft-faced goods and velour finishes.

=French toe=—in shoemaking, a wide, plain t. without cap.

=French waist=—trade term for trousers made without a sewed-on
waistband.

=French yarns=—worsted y. combed dry, without oil, resulting in a fairly
fuzzy or wooly strand, but which, however, is less liable to shrink than
y. spun by the English system. Compare English y.

=Fribble=—a trifling or frivolous affectation or fad.

=Fried egg=—a low flat hat.

=Friend=—a borrower.

=Frieze=—a thick, stout, double-woven, napt woolen overcoating, woven of
long fleece doubled after spinning, thoroly fulled after weaving and
slightly felted until waterproof and windproof, and finisht with a long,
unsheared shaggy nap. Said to have originated in Friesland, whence name,
but better known thru the Irish or near-Irish varieties.

=Fright wig=—general term for any monstrosity in the (theatrical) wig
line.

=Frill=—an ornamental strip of material gathered at the attacht edge,
the other edge being free; a flounce; a ruffle.

=Frills=—affected airs or manners in dress or ornament; fopperies.

=Frippery=—tawdry finery.

=Frize holland=—a superior grade of fine bleacht Holland linen, once
used largely for shirts, etc.

=Frock-Chesterfield=—a single-breasted, fly-front overcoat, with a waist
seam, a three-seam back as in a frock coat, and with skirts without
plaits (1907).

=Frock coat=—properly a c. either single or double-breasted, constructed
of parts known as forepart (which in double-breasted coats is divided at
the front line of the chest), sidebody, divided backpart and skirt, of
each 2, the backparts continuing down to the bottom, joining with the
skirt parts and forming the plaits behind, in which pockets are
sometimes placed; when the skirts in front are cutaway from a point near
the waistline the word cutaway is prefixt to distinguish from the more
formal garment, “Prince Albert”, as the double-breasted f. is commonly
known; the “cutaway frock” (of which the [English] walking c. is a
variation) is almost invariably single-breasted and consequently not
made with divided foreparts.

=Frock coat=—(=navy=) for all officers, a c. similar in cut to a
civilian’s f. c., but of dark blue cloth, double-breasted, with 2 rows
of large navy buttons, 9 each, buttoning on the six lower buttons; the
sleeves, collar and shoulders bearing the insignia prescribed for the
rank of the wearer.

=Frocking=—coarse cotton jean; drilling; dungaree; fustian.

=Frog=—an ornamental cloak or coat button or fastening of silk or wool
crocheted or braided in various fancy forms.

=Frog=—(1) an old term for a seaman’s coat or frock; (2) a leather
pocket or case for a pistol, bayonet or cutlass.

=Front=—a one-word epigram for appearance—clothes, manners, etc.

=Front facing=—in coat and vest making the strip of goods forming the
inside forepart or edge of the garment.

=Front-falls=—trousers not made with a single fly-opening, but with a
wide front flap, buttoning on both sides.

=Frosts=—spiked soles for walking on ice (early 18th century).

=Fudge wheeling=—an ornamental process in the finishing of the edges of
shoe soles.

=Full-baste=—tailoring term for a coat or other garment ready for try-on
with every seam basted, instead of some of the seams being sewed up.

=Full bellows tongue=—a tongue in a laced shoe, attacht to both sides of
the tops of the shoe at the opening and filling completely this opening.

=Full bottom=—see Wig.

=Full box=—lingo for a very loose effect in overcoats.

=Full chested=—bulgy.

=Full dress=—see Evening d.

=Full dress=—(=army=) the prescribed uniform worn on state occasions at
home and abroad; when receiving or calling upon the President or upon
the ruler or member of royal family of other countries; and at
ceremonies and entertainments when it is desirable to do special honor
to the occasion, or when f. d. is prescribed for enlisted men. For
general officers, dismounted; f. d. coat and trousers, chapeau,
epaulets, sash, white gloves, f. d. belt, saber, black shoes; same,
mounted: f. d. coat, dress breeches, f. d. cap, shoulder knots, sash,
drab leather gloves, f. d. belt, saber, black boots, spurs; officers of
staff corps and departments: officers of cavalry, artillery, infantry
and engineers, dismounted: f. d. coat and trousers, f. d. cap, white
gloves, f. d. belt, saber, black shoes, and aigulets and shoulder belts
for those authorized to wear them; same, mounted: f. d. coat, dress
breeches, f. d. cap, drab leather gloves, f. d. belt, black boots,
spurs; aigulets and shoulder belts as authorized; chaplains, dismounted:
f. d. coat and trousers, chaplain’s hat, white gloves, black shoes;
same, mounted: f. d. coat, dress breeches, drab leather gloves, black
boots, spurs, chaplain’s hat; for enlisted men, worn at reviews,
parades, and other ceremonies under arms, unless otherwise prescribed;
dismounted: dress coat, with breast cord, dress trousers, dress cap,
black shoes, white gloves, russet leather belt and cartridge box;
mounted: dress coat with breast cord, dress breeches, dress cap,
leggings, russet leather shoes, drab leather gloves, spurs, saber belt,
and cartridge box (when prescribed).

=Full dress=—(=navy=) worn on ceremonial occasions such as making or
exchanging visits with officers of flag rank, foreign officials, etc.,
and on ceremonies and entertainments where “dress” is not sufficient.
Consists of—for all commissioned officers, except chaplains, chief
boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers: f. d.
trousers, cockt hat, epaulets, sword and f. d. belt, scarf, white
gloves, medals and badges; for the officers excepted above and for
warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same as “Undress A”, and for
midshipmen, the same as prescribed for commissioned officers,
substituting the blue cap for the cockt hat and shoulder knots for
epaulets.

=Full dress=—(=marine corps=) to be worn by officers on occasions of
ordinary ceremony, such as usual reviews, inspections, street parades,
etc.; by enlisted men on occasions of ceremony when officers appear in
special f. d. or f. d. uniform, and when ordered by commanding officer;
and by members of the band on occasions of parades or reviews when
officers appear in special f. d. or f. d. uniform and when ordered by
commanding officer. Consists of—for major general commanding: f. d.
coat, f. d. or white trousers, chapeau, f. d. cap or white helmet, sash,
sword with f. d. belt and knot, shoulder knots, white gloves, black
shoes, white standing collar (or, when mounted, dark blue riding
breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs); for officers of
the line: a similar uniform except no chapeau or sash; for officers of
staff: a similar uniform except aigulets instead of shoulder knots, no
chapeau or sash; for enlisted men (including non-commissioned officers,
drummers and trumpeters): f. d. coat, blue or white trousers, f. d. cap
or white helmet, white gloves, black leather shoes, arms and
accouterments as ordered; for leader, drum-major and all members of
band: f. d. coat, blue or white trousers, special f. d. cap or white
helmet (shako for drum-major only), epaulets (leader only), shoulder
knots, aigulets (except for drum-major) sword with f. d. knot and belt,
(leader only) white gloves, black leather shoes, accouterments as
ordered.

=Full dress=—(=revenue cutter service=) worn by officers on occasions of
special ceremony and quarterly muster on board vessels of first and
second rate; first visits to commanders of war vessels and military
posts, parades of ceremony, etc.; consists of frock coat, plain dark
blue trousers, epaulets, chapeau, sword, f. d. belt and sword knot.

=Full dress belt=—for naval officers of the rank of rear admiral and
higher, of dark blue cloth with gold stripes of prescribed widths and
with blue cloth sling straps likewise decorated; for commissioned
officers, with certain exceptions, of dark blue silk webbing, with woven
gold stripes.

=Full dress breeches=—(=marine corps=) for all mounted officers, of same
material, and with same stripes, as f. d. trousers cut as prescribed for
field b.; worn with black boots and spurs.

=Full dress cap=—(=army=) for all officers, a c. of dark blue cloth,
with drooping visor of black patent leather and a flat gold cap-strap,
with bands of gold lace and velvet and insignia according to rank.

=Full dress cap=—(=marine corps=) of fine dull finisht dark blue cloth,
the sides 3¾ in. deep in front and 3½ in. in back, the top flat and
slightly oval and flaring out slightly, the visor dropt at an angle of
about 60° from the horizontal. For major general commandant, having a
band of dark blue velvet 1¾ in. wide, embroidered all around with gold
oak leaves, the visor covered with dark blue cloth, the top trimmed with
loops of narrow gold soutache braid, and otherwise finisht and decorated
as prescribed. For all other officers, the same, except the band is of
gold lace; the visor for officers of line and staff to be ornamented
with gold thread, and for company officers and captains in the staff of
plain black patent leather; for non-commissioned officers, drummers,
trumpeters and privates, a similar c., but with a band of scarlet cloth
lapseamed to blue sides, red worsted soutache ornament on top of c.;
other details per specifications; for leader of the band, second leader
and musicians, same as prescribed for special full dress. For
drum-major, a shako of black lambskin, 8½ in. high in front, 10 in. high
in back, plain red cloth top and red cloth bag trimmed with gold
soutache braid, gilt chin strap form under chin, and 12 in. red, white
and blue vulture feather plume on right side.

=Full dress coat=—(=army=) a double-breasted frock c. of dark blue cloth
with a standing collar, 2 gilt buttons at back of waist and 1 near the
end of each plait behind; the skirt to extend from one-half to
three-quarters of the distance from hip to knee. For general officers:
collar and cuffs of blue-black velvet; for other officers, collar of
same material as c., no cuffs. Buttons in front: for general, 2 rows of
12, placed by 4’s; lieutenant general, 2 rows of 10, placed 3 upper and
lower, 4 in middle; major general, 2 rows of 9, placed by 3’s; colonel,
lieutenant colonel and major, 2 rows of 9, spaced equally; captain,
first and second lieutenants, 2 rows of 7 equally spaced. For chief of
engineers, same as for general officers, except that a piping of scarlet
velvet appears on upper and outer edges of lapels, continuing down the
edges of the coat to bottom of skirt and from top of back flaps to
bottom of skirt, with a skirt facing of scarlet velvet; for other
officers of engineer corps, similar piping and facing, but of scarlet
cloth. For all officers, sleeve, collar and shoulder ornaments as
prescribed by regulation.

=Full dress coat=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all
line officers, a double-breasted frock c. of dark blue cloth, in length
1 in. below crotch, with standing collar, 2 rows of large marine corps
buttons wider apart at top than at bottom (9 placed in 3’s for major
general commandant, 8 equidistant for other officers), 2 pockets in
skirt folds, collars and cuffs with trimmings prescribed for rank of
wearer. For officers of staff, a single-breasted tunic of dark blue
cloth, in length 1 in. below crotch, with closed skirt behind, trimmed
as for line officers, but without pockets, standing collar, and with
trimmings as prescribed; aigulets and shoulder knots with f. d. and
special f. d. For non-commissioned officers and privates, a
single-breasted tunic of dark blue cloth, reaching 1 in. below crotch, 8
large marine corps buttons in front and 2 in back at end of waist seam,
standing collar, the coat piped down front, around the bottom and up the
plaits of the skirt to waist seam with ⅛ in. scarlet cloth; scarlet
shoulder straps and sleeve bands and other details as prescribed. For
drummers and trumpeters, a c. of the same style, except that it is of
scarlet cloth with white piping, black collar, black shoulder straps and
black sleeve bands, these straps piped with white; for leader of the
band, a tunic of dark blue cloth, same patterns as prescribed for staff
officers, except: the breast trimmed across with ⅛ in. gold tubular
braid and 3 rows of marine corps buttons, 7 each row; cuffs trimmed as
prescribed for first lieutenant without the scarlet backing. For second
leader of band, a f. d. c. of scarlet cloth, made as prescribed for
enlisted men of the line, except: the collar of black broadcloth piped
with white; front and bottom edges and back of skirt plaits to waist
piped with white; front trimmed across with black mohair braid (in the
same manner as undress c. of officers) and with 3 rows of marine corps
buttons, 7 each. For musicians of band, same as for second leader,
except: with pointed cuffs of black broadcloth. For drum-major, same as
prescribed, for second leader, except: collar of scarlet cloth trimmed
with gold lace and piped with white cloth, breast trimmed with ½ in.
gold tubular braid, pointed cuffs, outlined with ½ in. gold tubular
braid. Other details per regulations.

=Full dress coat=—(=navy=) for bandsmen a single-breasted tunic of
scarlet cloth, buttoned to the neck with 8 gilt buttons, standing
collar, the front edges, bottom and skirt plaits (to waist seam) piped
with white cloth, no outside pockets, shoulder decorations as
prescribed.

=Full dress frock coat=—(=revenue cutter service=) for all commissioned
officers: of dark navy-blue cloth, double-breasted, buttoning to the
neck, rolling collar, 2 rows of service buttons on breast, 9 each side,
spaced equidistant, full skirts extending nearly to the knee, trimmings,
attachments, etc., as prescribed.

=Full dress saber belt=—see Saber b.

=Full dress shirt=—see Evening d. s.

=Full dress sword belt=—(=marine corps=) for all officers and leader of
the band, of 1½ in. marine corps gold lace with a ³⁄₁₆ in. stripe of
scarlet silk thru the center, white leather lining, showing edges, ⅛ in.
Slings of same material and design.

=Full dress trousers=—see Evening d. t.

=Full dress trousers=—(=army=) for general officers, of dark blue cloth
with 2 stripes of gold wire lace mounted on velvet, of the color of coat
collar, along outer seams; for chief of engineers, the interval between
the stripes of scarlet velvet; for officers of staff corps and
departments (except engineers) 1 stripe of gold lace; for officers of
engineer corps, stripes of scarlet cloth with white piping; for officers
of cavalry, artillery and infantry, of sky-blue cloth with 1½ in.
stripes, welted at the edges, of the colors of the facings of their
respective corps or arms, except that for infantry the stripes are
white; for chaplains, of plain black or dark blue cloth, without stripe,
welt or cord.

=Full dress trousers=—(=navy=) of dark blue cloth with a stripe of gold
lace covering the outseam of each leg.

=Full dress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and
all staff officers, of dark blue cloth, cut with medium spring, side
pockets, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. black mohair braid. For line
officers, same as Special f. d. For non-commissioned officers, of
sky-blue kersey, outseams finisht with 1 in. stripe of welted edge
scarlet cloth. For privates, the same without the scarlet stripes. For
drummers and trumpeters, the same except that the outseams have a ³⁄₁₆
in. scarlet welt; for leader of the band, same as prescribed for line
officer’s special f. d. For second leader and musicians, same as
prescribed for privates, except: with 2½ in. stripes of scarlet cloth
down outer seams, stitcht on the outer edges, showing ¼ in. of light
blue between. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other
non-commissioned officers.

=Full dress uniforms=—(=army, navy, marine corps, etc.=) see Full d., et
var.

=Full dress waistcoat=—see Evening d. w.

=Full fashioned=—general term for hosiery, etc., produced on automatic
knitting machines, made in flat strips or patterns and then joined,
either by machine or by hand. See F. regular.

=Full feather=—in full dress; attired in one’s best clothes.

=Full fig=—(nautical) full dress.

=Full frock=—the double-breasted frock coat, or “Prince Albert”.

=Full-headed=—tailoring term, meaning having fine plaits or puckers of
material in the upper part, as a sleeve; not skimpt; more liberal than
usual; specially, a joining of sleeve and shoulder so that top of sleeve
head shows up full. See Sleeve head.

=Full peg=—tailoring term for extra baggy trousers, commonly predicativ
of college fledglings. See P. top and Half p.

=Full regular=—trade term for hosiery and underwear in which the seams
are made by hand knitting instead of by machine; the most expensiv
grade.

=Full Scotch=—see Scotch edge.

=Full skeleton=—tailoring term for coats made without lining. Compare
Half s.

=Full uniform=—the complement of costume, ornaments, arms, etc.,
prescribed for officers and men in the military and naval service on
inspection, parade and ceremonial occasions. See Full dress, Special
full dress, etc.

=Full vamp=—shoemaking term for vamps where the toes are not cut away
under the tips. See Whole v., et var.

=Fulled=—made thicker and more compact by shrinking.

=Fuller’s earth=—a species of non-plastic clay used as an absorbent of
grease and oil and as a cleansing agent; also used in fulling cloth.

=Fulling=—the process of cleansing and condensing (or shrinking) woolen
and worsted goods to render them stronger and firmer. See encyclopedia.

=Fulling gum=—a substance used for preparing warps for weaving.

=Fur beaver=—a long-napt cloth imitating fur.

=Fur felt=—hatter’s term for f. (and hats thereof) made from the fur of
nutria, beaver, coney or other fur-bearing animals.

=Fur seal=—the “sealskin de luxe”, being of much finer texture than wool
s. and correspondingly more valuable. Found in Alaska, Shetland Islands,
Lobos Island, etc., the former being of the most uniform excellence. The
hide of this variety is seldom, if ever, used for leather.

=Furbelow=—(1) a plaited or puckered flounce; (2) broadly, redundant or
superfluos finery or ornament.

=Furrier=—(1) a dealer in or maker of fur goods and garments; (2) a fur
dresser.

=Furrier’s knife=—a flat piece of steel, having the general outlines of
a rhomb, one edge of which is sharpened, the opposite edge or top being
concaved to form a handle.

=Furs=—familiar term for fur outergarments.

=Fuscous=—dusky; grayish brown, tawny.

=Fussy=—fancy, effeminate, meretricious.

=Fustian=—(1) formerly a kind of stout cloth made of cotton and flax;
(2) now a coarse twilled linen or cotton fabric; (3) corduroy and
similar fabrics are also so-called.


                                   G

=G-string=—an aboriginal modesty-bit.

=Gabardine=—a cloak-like garment worn by Russian Jews; usually made of
black cloth, silk or moire; it is buttoned down front to waist, whence
it hangs to the ankles.

=Gabardine=—a close-woven, fine twilled waterproof cotton cloth for
sporting and motor wear. Probably a blind name.

=Gag=—investiture for the mouth, of any sufficient model, style, or
material, worn at discretion when the alternativ might be hurtful,
usually applied by burglars who object to raucous cacophony.

=Gaiter=—(1) a cloth or leather covering for the leg or ankle; a
spatterdash or overgaiter; (2) a shoe without opening, but elastic gores
at the sides. See Congress g.

=Gaiter bottoms=—tailoring term for trousers cut snug at the ankle and
extending out covering the instep with strap fastening beneath the foot.

=Gaiter trousers=—just described (vs).

=Galashiels=—a town in Scotland famous for its tweeds known by that
name.

=Galatea=—(1) a striped worsted suiting faintly suggestiv of Bedford
cord; (2) a stout striped cotton fabric, used for shirts, pinafores,
etc.

=Gallant=—(1) a (good or bad) man who pays court or markt attention to
women; (2) a beau; (3) a man of showy or ostentatious attire.

=Galligaskins=—(1) wide hose or trousers formerly worn by seamen; (2)
leather leggings. See Venetians.

=Galloon=—general term for various kinds of worsted, silk or tinsel lace
or decorativ braid used on uniforms, etc.

=Galloon-gallant=—contemptuous for an over-decorated fop.

=Galloway=—a breed of cattle raised in Scotland, noted for the softness
and excellence of their glossy black hair; the skins are used for fur
coats, lap robes, etc.

=Gallows=—an early name for what we now call suspenders, modernly
corrupted to “galluses”.

=Galluses=—suspenders. See Gallows.

=Gambados=—boot-like leathers, resembling leggings or spatterdashes,
attacht to a saddle, protecting the feet and serving as stirrups.

=Gambeson=—an old-time (’way back) coat of leather or cloth, stuft and
quilted, worn defensivly.

=Gambroon=—a twilled cloth of worsted-and-cotton or linen-and-cotton,
used for summer trousers; also a twilled linen lining material.

=Game bag=—similar to an ammunition b., but with ventilating holes.

=Gams=—slang for legs, and by extension, trousers.

=Gants=—French for gloves.

=Gape=—a yawning or divergence, as of coat tails spreading apart, or of
coat collar standing out and away from the neck.

=Garb=—one’s dress in its entirety; costume; style or peculiarity of
apparel, as clerical g.

=G. A. R. uniform=—a plain blue sack suit, the coat either single or
double-breasted, with brass buttons, and commonly a black slouch hat,
with cord and tassels and gilt badge.

=Garibaldi=—a loose blouse waist resembling those worn by the soldiers
of Garibaldi, the Italian patriot.

=Garmenture=—a generic name for dress.

=Garner’s=—trade diminutiv for the fine shirting percales manufactured
by Garner & Co., Reading, Pa., and Pleasant Valley, N.Y.

=Garnetted=—trade term for fabrics containing garnetted or made over
carded yarns. Garnetted worsteds, for illustration, are not entitled to
the designation “pure worsted”. See Garnetting.

=Garnetting=—the process of separating clippings, waste, etc., into new
spinning fibers, resulting in carded yarns, usually mixt with good
fibers, as garnetted worsted with wool, etc.

=Garrison pocket=—the right hip p.

=Garrison shoes=—(=army=) for enlisted men: of russet calf, Blucher
style.

=Garter ring=—a gold finger r. made in imitation of a strap buckled in a
circle.

=Garter webbing=—a narrow, elastic textil band or ribbon, having strips
of India rubber as part of its warp; elastic w. (qv).

=Garters=—commonly, elastic bands capable of being elongated and
adjusted ad libitum, worn around the lower extremities of one’s
locomotiv members for maintaining the proper position and required
altitude for the habiliments of the tibia.

=Garters=—nautical slang for leg irons.

=Gas iron=—a tailor’s smoothing or pressing i., heated by internal gas
jets.

=Gasoline iron=—a tailor’s i. heated within by means of a gasoline
flame, the fluid being contained in a tank affixt to the outside.

=Gassing=—a finishing process in cotton cloth manufacturing; removing
the fuzz by singeing.

=Gauche=—in ill taste, awkward.

=Gauntlet=—a glove with wide cuffs attacht, usually stiff, covering the
coat sleeves, to protect from dust and wind in driving; originally a
mailed covering for the hand and wrist, often with offensiv armor.

=Gauze=—any light open-woven cotton, silk or wool material.

=Gauze weaving=—a method in which the warp threads are more or less
intertwined among themselves, achieving light, open texturs and many
fanciful or lacy combinations; if plain it is usually called leno.

=Gem=—any precious stone, particularly when cut and set ready for
wearing.

=Gem peg=—a rest for the g. stick (qv) in g. cutting.

=Gem stick=—a rod, on the end of which a g. is cemented whilst being
cut.

=Gem stone=—general term given to minerals suitable for cutting, as a g.

=Gemel ring=—a r. formed of 2 or more rings; a puzzle r.

=Genapping=—a process in woolen manufacture by which the free fuzz or
loose fiber known as “nap” is removed from woolen yarn by singeing to
make it suitable for certain kinds of cloth.

=General’s uniform=—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u. Also
see variants.

=Geneva gown=—a clergyman’s full g. of black silk or wool stuff, made
with an inner cassock-front, meeting in a sort of military collar, with
white banks at the neck, and buttoning all the way down the front.

=Genoese velvet=—a rich patterned silk v., sometimes interwoven with
gold thread.

=Gent=—not a gentleman.

=Gent’s furnisher=—the vulgar general title of a very respectable
business.

=Genteel=—les bourgeois gentilhommes.

=German sock=—a knitted s. of extra heavy wool, with buckled tops or
with canvas legging tops reaching to the knee, for wear with arctics or
heavy shoes.

=Get up=—a scheme of costume; the way you are drest.

=Gew-gaw=—any flashy, useless ornament.

=Ghaba=—a long, loose flowing coatlike garment worn by the merchant
class in Persia; is double-breasted, lapping over and fastening with 2
buttons, while, about the waist, a shawl is wound several times, knotted
and the ends tuckt out of sight.

=Gift-of-gab=—an eccentricity of salesmen.

=Gig=—a machine for raising a nap on cloth by passing it over rotating
cylinders armed with teasels. Compare Slubbing machine.

=Gigging=—giving a nap to woolen cloths, such as broadcloths, beaver,
chinchilla, melton, etc.

=Giller=—a horsehair fishing line.

=Gilling=—a step in the process of combing worsted yarns; bringing the
fibers level and parallel into a uniform strand.

=Gilt button=—brass.

=Gimmal ring=—see Gemel r.

=Gimp buttonhole=—made as described under b. making, but employing very
coarse silk twist, and taking long, regular stitches over a heavy cord.
Contrast Satin b. h.

=Gingerbread=—over-fancy, glaring, loud, fussy, insubstantial.

=Gingham=—a plain-woven reversible cotton fabric, loom-patterned in
simple checks, stripes and plaids.

=Gingham=—vernacular for a large family umbrella.

=Ginning=—a step in the process of preparing cotton for weaving;
separating, mechanically, the seeds from the fiber.

=Girdle=—the circumferential rim of a diamond or other precious stone;
the line of juncture of the upper and lower pyramids. See Brilliant
cutting.

=Glace=—glove trade term, meaning polisht or drest kid (or other)
leather.

=Glad rags=—evening dress clothes; frock coats; new or good clothes,
generally.

=Glasses=—generality for eye g. or spectacles.

=Glaze=—a sizing or high finish applied to certain fabrics, as sleeve
linings, hat trimmings, cheap underwear trimmings, etc. See Glazing,
Sizing and Washable.

=Glazed kid=—trade term for kid leather finisht with a high polish, in
contradistinction to dull k., which has a flat or dull appearance. See
Chrome k.

=Glazing=—a glossing or calendering process effected by steam-heated
steel rollers.

=Glengarry=—a cape overcoat; now known as Inverness (qv).

=Glengarry=—a Scotch cap.

=Glims=—cant for spectacles. (British).

=Gloria=—a twill woven silk and wool fabric, used largely for umbrellas.

=Gloss finish=—see High polish.

=Glove=—a leather or textil covering for the hands, having separate
stalls for each finger. Anciently gloves possest considerable
significance as pledges of troth and confidence, gages of battle,
emblems of office, etc.—which is interesting to the searcher for
curiosa, but too lengthy for this short-order book.

=Glove=—a wooden scraper, fastened to the workman’s hands, used in
felting hats.

=Glove box=—a container for gloves.

=Glove kid=—a term used mostly by shoemakers to designate a fine, soft
leather employed for the tops of fine shoes.

=Glove of mail=—a mailed gauntlet.

=Glove stretcher=—a device for stretching or “easing” gloves.

=Glove tree=—a wooden form in the shape of a hand for keeping gloves in
condition.

=Gloversville=—a town in New York where nearly all the gloves made in
this country are produced.

=Goat=—an omnivorous animal, once characteristic of Harlem and the
Bronx, whose hide furnishes shoe leather and glove skins and whose pelt
is made up into wild animal fur robes, etc.

=Goatee=—a beard or tuft, so trimmed that it falls from the chin like
the beard of a goat; a fashion once very common, but now rare.

=Goater=—a thief’s term for dress.

=Goggle-cap=—a chauffeur’s c. having a front band in which goggles are
affixt.

=Goggles=—a covering for the eyes, or also for part of the face, with
glasses or lenses secured in silk gauze, leather, metal or rubber,
fastened around the head with straps or wire frames and worn to exclude
dust when automobiling, mining, etc.

=Gold=—a precious metal, bowed down to, in the representativ abstract,
by all the tribes of Israel and by the also-ran; in commerce and
industry made into jewelry for one’s wives and near-wives; in medicin as
an alleged constituent of a celebrated cure for good fellows.

=Gold filled=—trade term for a compound plate of 2 sheets of g. having a
sheet of baser metal between them; by extension applied to cheap jewelry
made thereof.

=Gold lace=—l. wrought with g. or gilt thread; an ornamental or
decorativ trimming fabric formed by weaving silken threads wound round
with g. filaments; most used for military, naval and similar uniforms.

=Gold stick=—an official of the royal household of Great Britain, a
colonel of the Life Guards or a captain of the gentlemen-at-arms, who
bears a gilt rod on state occasions; also loosely applied to other state
attendants.

=Goldsmiths’ company=—one of the ancient London guilds, having certain
hereditary privileges, among them that of stamping or certifying all
gold and silver.

=Golf bag=—a long, open-end b. of canvas, leather or plaid, or
combinations thereof, with a sling strap, and usually with an outside
pocket for balls.

=Golf cap=—general name for cloth caps made with a visor or peak, but
without a band.

=Golf cloth=—see Albert c.

=Golf coat=—generally, a single-breasted sack c. or Norfolk jacket with
a plaited fullness under the arms to allow freedom of stroke (whence
name of Stroke c. sometimes given) with a belted back; more loosely, any
old c. one is not afraid of soiling; once upon a recent time a gaudy
thing of green or red, or with green or red trimmings.

=Golf discs=—small rubber knobs affixt to heels and soles of shoes for
surety of footing.

=Golf glove=—a g. of soft leather, usually chamois, commonly made with
open (hole) knuckles and to button on the top or outside of wrist; altho
there are many other models.

=Golf hose=—heavy woolen or worsted stockings, in Scotch patterns, quite
“swell” when they were costly.

=Golf shoes=—s. made for the use of golfers, with protruding nails or
buttons on soles to prevent slipping.

=Golf sleeves=—trade term for neglige shirts with s. made in 2 pieces,
separated and buttoning at about the hight of the elbow, the forepart
being removed for freedom and comfort.

=Golf stocks=—any neck stock.

=Golf studs=—see Boot s. and G. discs.

=Golf waistcoat=—same as Coat sweater.

=Golosh=—an overshoe; formerly of wood; but modernly of rubber.

=Good form=—see Form.

=Good middling=—see Cotton classification.

=Good ordinary=—see Cotton classification.

=Goodwood=—perhaps the most fashionable race-meet in England, vieing
with Ascot, but unlike the latter, being a private park, owned by the
Duke of Richmond.

=Goodyear stitching=—a modern mechanical process of sewing together the
sole and vamp of a shoe, the process commencing and concluding at the
breast or back of heel. See below.

=Goodyear welt=—in shoemaking, meaning that the uppers and soles are
secured by means of a welt sewed on the Goodyear machine, an improvement
on the McKay machine. See above.

=Goose=—a tailor’s heaving smoothing iron, originally the kind heated on
a stove or flame; so called from its handle, which somewhat resembles
the neck of a goose.

=Gore=—a triangular piece of cloth let into a garment to widen it or eke
out narrow goods; a gusset.

=Gore=—see Elastic g.

=Gorge=—that part of a coat or vest encircling the neck; where the
collar, if any, is joined. Compare Opening.

=Gorget=—(1) an ornamental neckband, very full and broad in front, worn
a century or two ago when men knew how to dress; (2) a steel throat
armor.

=Goring=—see Elastic gore.

=Gown=—(1) a sack overcoat; a Chesterfield; a raincoat; (2) a
clergyman’s robe; (3) a bachelor’s, doctor’s or other academic g.; (4) a
night robe; (5) the slip or covering thrown over you whilst in the
barber’s chair.

=Gownsman=—a collegian.

=Grade=—to arrange a scale or system of sizes for manufacturing or for
buying and selling; to classify fibers, qualities, etc.

=Grader=—an assistant to the designer or head cutter in wholesale
manufacturing houses; his duty is to take the first paper patterns
designed for the season and grade them onto heavy paper for the cloth
cutters to work from; these are called “block patterns”.

=Grading=—the making of a set of patterns, in all sizes, for any article
of apparel.

=Graduated tie=—a t. for wear with standing shirt collars, narrowest at
the middle and widening evenly to the ends.

=Graft=—a sticky substance much esteemed by buyers, manufacturers and
politicians.

=Grain leather=—l. made from the hides of neat cattle, split so thin as
to be suitable for same uses as goat, calf, etc., which it is made to
imitate.

=Grand street=—a street in New York famous for its Jewish pushcart
trade; being lined for many blocks with double rows of peripatetic
merchants displaying almost every class of merchandise.

=Grandpa’s hat=—a tall “top h.” of felt or beaver fur or rough silk
plush, bell shaped, reminiscent of the 40’s.

=Granit=—weaving term for small irregular effects produced by yarns of
several colors or by an irregular arrangement of the warp and weft,
comprehending any and all fabrics without specific weave for foundation;
in general, any face finisht fancy weave suiting not made on a twill.
(=Granite.=)

=Grass linen=—coarse, plain woven, unbleacht l., used for summer
clothing.

=Grass suit=—a weedy thing that makes a duck hunter look like a tree to
a fool bird, but like a cannibal to timid humans.

=Gray cloth=—undyed.

=Gray cotton=—unbleacht or undyed.

=Grease paint=—an article of theatrical makeup.

=Grease spot=—the badge of a slob.

=Great-coat=—any heavy overcoat; particularly a coachman’s skirted
overcoat.

=Great Scott!=—an aptly named depilatory (a proprietary article) said to
be composed of tallow and pitch, which, on removal, causes the
beauty-seeker to say Great Scott—and then some.

=Greaves=—leg armor.

=Grecian sack=—a loose, baggy box overcoat worn about 1850–60, usually
with velvet collar and cuffs and quilted satin lining.

=Greeley hat=—see Horace Greeley h.

=Green cap=—a color (of c.) that undergraduates in some of our colleges
are chivalrously endeavoring to force freshmen to wear.

=Green gold=—g. alloyed with silver. Compare red g. and white g.

=Greenback=—vernacular for paper money.

=Grege=—raw silk as wound off the cocoons.

=Gregorian=—see Wig.

=Gremial veil=—an embroidered cloth spread over the knees of a bishop
when sitting during high mass.

=Grenadier cap=—a tall pointed c. or head covering, properly of
bearskin, worn in certain European military corps.

=Grenadine=—a gauzy or net-like silk fabric used for men’s neckwear and
women’s dresses.

=Grenadine=—a species of thrown silk. See Throwing.

=Grenoble=—(1) a town in France famous for its many glove factories and
the fine quality of kid skins raised in the surrounding neighborhood;
(2) a trade diminutiv implying excellence.

=Grey Breeks=—the popular name for Lord Lynedoch’s 90th Regiment of Foot
(1794).

=Grip=—a suit case; a large traveling bag.

=Gripper=—see Wiper.

=Grogram=—a stiff fabric of silk and wool or all-wool, of diagonal
weave; a coarse stuff of which boat cloaks, heavy coats, etc., were once
made.

=Groom’s box overcoat=—see Coachman’s b. o.

=Groom’s frock coat=—same as Coachman’s f. c., but about one inch
shorter, and worn with a leather belt.

=Groom’s livery=—like coachman’s l. with slight modifications of detail.

=Groom’s vest=—a waistcoat of whipcord or corduroy with knitted or
flannel sleeves attacht.

=Gros de Londres=—a fine weave of gros-grain silk (qv).

=Grosgrain=—a stout, close-woven, fine corded silk fabric, dyed in plain
colors and having but little luster.

=Guanaco=—a South American animal of the camel family yielding a coarse,
inferior hair of but little use.

=Guard’s coat=—a long, loose traveling overcoat of tweed or homespun,
made with a whole back, held together in gathers by a cloth strap.
(1907)

=Guernsey=—a close-fitting, knitted woolen shirt worn by sailors.

=Guessfit=—term coined by the compiler of this dictionary for use by
tailors in derision of readymade—and now used by cheap tailors
everywhere who live in glass houses themselves.

=Guinea cloth=—see Outing c.

=Gum bucket=—nautical slang for tobacco pipe.

=Gum shoe=—a rubber overshoe.

=Gum shoe=—a term for underhand transactions.

=Gum stocking=—see Elastic s.

=Gum tissue=—see Rubber t. and Buckskin.

=Gums=—rubber overshoes.

=Gun-mouthed trousers=—see Sailor’s t.

=Gun-pocket=—place for the arsenal.

=Gunner’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Special full dress, full d., dress,
undress; (=army=) Full dress, Dress u., Service u., Fatigue u.;
(=revenue cutter service=) Full dress, Service dress. See also
Variations.

=Gunny=—see Gunnysacking.

=Gunnysacking=—coarse spun canvas or burlap of loose material, such as
jute, used here for baling—but they use it in India for clothing among
the poorer classes.

=Gusset=—a triangular piece of cloth, usually small, inserted into a
garment to give added strength or more room; a gore.

=Gutter seam=—term used by collar and cuff manufacturers descriptiv of
an edge s. made by folding the inner and outer plies, previously stitcht
together inside out, in over the interlining, and then stitcht thru,
finally, from the outside, the inner edges of the fold being generally
overcast in advance of the first stitching. This s. is supposed to wear
extra well, with little or no (?) liability to turn into “saw edges”.

=Guy=—anyone who makes a show of himself in his clothes.

=Gymnasium shoe=—a laced soft s. of kid or canvas, with a light elk or
buff turn sole, having but little sock lining and no counter or box toe.

=Gymkhana costume=—anything absurd, in keeping with the farcical
character of this ridiculous race or sport.

=Gyves=—fetters; the old word for handcuffs.


                                   H

=Haberdasher=—a dealer in “men’s furnishings”.

=Habit=—the double-breasted dress coat of 1840–50 with very high collar.

=Hackle=—see Hatchel.

=Hackling=—a process of preparing flax fibers for spinning, arranging
them smoothly and parallel.

=Haik=—a white drapery drawn low on the forehead and falling
curtain-like about the face; it conceals the cachi (qv) and is held in
place by one or more tightly fitting rings of camel’s or goat’s hair,
prest down tightly on the head, and is of such dimensions as to conceal
the entire figure. (Arabia.)

=Hair clipper=—a small hand-mowing machine for making “shavy-headed
monkeys”.

=Hair cutter=—a patronizing sort of barber.

=Hair dresser=—just barber.

=Hair dye=—essence of vanity used to make gay bloods of old bucks.

=Hair oil=—maybe medicinal, but once worn to plaster down one’s hair
when such was considered “the thing”; now a mark of the near-gent.

=Hair seal=—unpluckt s.

=Haircloth=—an elastic, resilient material woven of cotton or linen warp
with a weft or filling of hair from the manes and tails of horses;
employed as a stiffening interlining in coats, etc.

=Hairline=—in weaving, a narrow striped color effect on clothes of any
description.

=Half a warp=—see Warp.

=Half-and-half-bound=—in tailoring, an edge finish where the braid is
applied evenly, back and front covering the edge, and stitcht only along
the outer edges of the braid.

=Half-and-half braid=—see Silk b.

=Half-and-half sleeve=—a coat s. of which the two parts are of nearly
equal width; an old style of s. with a seam showing in front, and is
seldom now used.

=Half back=—trade term for a class of woolens combining some of the
characteristics of both thru-and-thru and backt goods.

=Half blood=—wool classification term. See Wool.

=Half-boot=—an ankle boot.

=Half hose=—men’s stockings; socks.

=Half lined=—tailoring term applied to garments that are partially lined
or partially “skeleton”.

=Half mitts=—gloves with half length fingers and thumbs.

=Half mourning=—black mitigated by lavender, gray or other subdued
colors or white.

=Half-peg=—trade term for trousers on the peg-top order, but not cut
quite so full. See P. top. and Full p.

=Half round=—trade term for buttons shaped like a half sphere.

=Half Scotch=—see Scotch edge.

=Half skeleton=—tailoring term for coats with unlined back, the
side-bodies being lined.

=Half sole=—repairing term for worn shoes, boots, etc.—a new s. applied
to the tread or forepart of the s.

=Half top pocket=—set at a shorter angle from the vertical than the top
p.; almost a side p.

=Haling hands=—heavy gloves or mittens of colonial days worn by sailors
and workmen (hauling—h?).

=Hall-boy’s suit=—plain cloth, single- or double-breasted blouse or sack
coat, with regular lapel collar (or with standing military collar if
single-breasted, ornamented, if at all, on cuffs or shoulders or both;
side seams of trousers trimmed to match. For clubs or hotels the jacket
or blouse may have two or three diverging rows of buttons, but is closed
with hooks and eyes, the collar and cuffs sometimes being of contrasting
color of cloth, in which case the trousers have a narrow piping of same
in the side seams. No waistcoat.

=Hall mark=—(British) the mark placed upon gold and silver by the
Goldsmiths’ Company certifying to fineness. A slight variation each year
establishes the date of production.

=Halo=—an aurea worn by the head of the house, clearly perceptible to
himself and a few satellites, but absolutely undiscernible by anyone
else of normal faculties.

=Halstead street=—a street in Chicago having a great number of small and
cheap clothing shops (compare South s. and Baxter s.); a local synonym
for cheap clothing.

=Hand-fitted=—tailoring term for the linings fitted into a coat one
piece at a time, all the sewing being done by hand. Compare Bagged.

=Hand-glasses=—eye-glasses and spectacles were once so called in New
York.

=Hand loom=—(1) a more or less primitiv or improved l. operated entirely
by h. and foot, as opposed to power l.; usually found in cottages; (2)
trade term for goods woven on h. looms; nearly synonymous with homespun.

=Hand made=—made by h. workers: distinguisht from machine made.

=Hand made buttonhole=—not machine made.

=Hand-me-down=—(1) readymade clothes; (2) second-h. clothes; from being
handed down from one person to another.

=Hand padded=—tailoring term applied (1) to collars, lapels and coat
fronts, meaning that same was made by h. instead of machine; (2) the
result of making such parts by h., taking close, even, tight stitches.
See next.

=Hand padding=—cloth, canvas, shoddy, etc., sewed together in position
and ironed into shape entirely by h. for fashion’s sake or to improve
fit.

=Hand shaping=—term generally applied to shoulders and coat fronts,
indicating that the interlinings were cut and sewed together by h.,
being workt into shape during the latter operation, in contradistinction
to such work made wholly or in part by machine (vs).

=Hand-to-handmade=—tailoring term meaning made entirely by operators,
passing, stage by stage, from one h. to another. See Section work.

=Hand-woven=—(1) made on h. looms; (2) not made in a mill.

=Handball gloves=—g. made of padded leather, with full or cut-off
fingers.

=Handcuffs=—steel wristlets of temporary wear occasionally seen in the
lower walks of life.

=Handjar=—an oriental dagger or short broadsword.

=Handkerchief=—a square of linen, silk or cotton, with hem or selvage;
plain, printed, embroidered or otherwise fancified, used for wiping the
face or nose, and by country swains to waft a bye-bye to the old folks
and one other as the train pulls out.

=Handkerchief bosom=—in shirt making a neglige shirt with a b. made of a
fancy handkerchief.

=Handkerchief box=—a receptacle for handkerchiefs.

=Handle=—trade term for the “feel” of textil fabrics as indicativ of
working and wearing qualities.

=Handsel=—(1) a gift or token of good will; a votiv offering to Luck;
the first sales or earnings, bestowed upon some one; (2) earnest money
on a contract.

=Hanger=—(1) a loop sewed into the neck of a coat-lining or waist lining
of trousers for the purpose of hanging them up in a way to become
shapeless; (2) a chain for the same purpose sometimes used on heavy
overcoats; (3) a wooden or metal device over which coats and vests may
be hung in a shape-retaining manner or trousers suspended to retain
their creases.

=Hanger=—a short cut-and-thrust sword, curved near the point; a sort of
cutlass. (17th and 18th centuries).

=Hangnail=—skin partially torn from its attachment near the root of a
finger nail.

=Hank=—a bundle of two or more skeins of yarn tied together; also a
single skein (qv).

=Hankie=—colloquial for handkerchief.

=Hanselines=—a kind of breeches. (Obsolete.)

=Hard finisht=—same as Clear f.

=Hard press=—same as following.

=Hard prest=—tailor’s term for flat p. lapels, seams, etc. Compare Soft
p.

=Hard rim button=—a b. made over a mold, usually covered with cloth
matching the garment, but protected by a rim and back of hard rubber,
naturally the most durable of covered buttons.

=Hare=—a short-tailed, long-eared rodent of the genus Lepus, the pelt of
which is an important staple of hat manufacture and is also largely used
in cheap fur garments.

=Hare’s combings=—loose or dead hair removed in cleaning skins, and used
as an adulterant in the manufacture of cheap hats.

=Hare’s foot=—see Rabbit f.

=Harlequin check=—a check pattern of three or more different colors.

=Harness belt=—a leather b. of horsey appearance.

=Harris tweed=—a men’s wear fabric made on the island of Harris, one of
the smaller British isles; originally woven by very poor people on hand
looms, and dyed with natural products. A number of people took an
interest in the work, notably the Duchess of Sutherland, and now a
considerable trade is done in the cloth, which on account of its
excellent qualities and high price, is now widely imitated, the
imitations being known by the same name; the genuine is easily
identified by its peculiar peaty odor.

=Haslock=—the throat-wool of a sheep; the finest grade.

=Hat=—a formal covering for the head; of various models and worn at
various angles of inclination; a frequently remarked characteristic is,
that, altho a h. may be satisfactory any day and night, it may not be
the next morning.

=Hat band=—a ribbon surrounding the crown.

=Hat block=—a mold on which hats are formed.

=Hat body=—an unfinished h. in any stage of its progress from the
forming machine to the stiffening or napping apparatus.

=Hat box=—(1) a round or square carrying case for hats (one or more),
usually of sole leather with fancy silk linings, etc.; (2) the same, of
paper board.

=Hat brush=—a b. of soft bristles for cleansing and smoothing hats.

=Hat case=—a h. box.

=Hat conformateur=—see Conformateur.

=Hat cover=—a mackintosh or rubber covering for coachmen’s or groom’s h.

=Hat furs=—the principal furs used in the manufacture of hats are hare,
rabbit, coney, nutria, beaver, muskrat, seal, mink, etc.

=Hat honor=—doffing the h.; a salute.

=Hat lining=—until the last 10 or 15 years nearly all men’s hats were
lined, usually with satin in one or many colors, and often with white
satin bearing pictures of sporting scenes, landscapes, etc., and
especially portraits of ballet girls, and reproductions of paintings
from life.

=Hat manufacturing=—see Carroting, Devil, Forming, Sizing, Stiffening,
Stretching, Blocking, Finishing, Soft finishing, Curling, Flanging, etc.

=Hat pad=—a strip of felt slipt inside the sweatband to make a large h.
fit a smaller head—and frequently removed the morning after.

=Hat rack=—a row of hooks to hang hats on for some other fellow to
choose from.

=Hat tip=—the gaudy gold label pasted in the crown of a h. by
manufacturers.

=Hatchel=—an implement for cleaning flax or hemp, usually consisting of
a set of iron teeth fastened to a board, thru which the flax is drawn
and broken, removing the woody fiber; a hackel.

=Hatter=—a seller of hats; a friend of Alice in Wonderland, but not,
despite the popular impression, always mad in March.

=Hauberk=—a sort of coat of mail, either chain or plate, worn by the
doughty warriors of the moldly past.

=Haute nouveaute=—high novelty.

=Havelock=—the light cotton cape or neck covering worn by soldiers and
travelers in hot countries, hanging from a cap, behind the neck.

=Haverly hat=—a name given to hats (any style) for a short time during
the latter half of the last century because such hats had tickets, good
at any and all of Haverly’s theaters or traveling shows, entitling the
owner of the h. to admission. (From J. H. Haverly, a popular minstrel
“magnate”).

=Haversack=—(1) a soldier’s ration bag, hung from the shoulder; (2) a
hunter’s leather ammunition case.

=Hawick=—a town in Scotland famous for tweeds.

=Head=—see Wool.

=Head=—the face or small top part of a collar button.

=Head-and-face-protector=—a sort of leather armor for boxers afraid to
take punishment.

=Head carrier=—see Tump line.

=Head harness=—general term for helmets, leather caps, ear guards, etc.,
worn by slugball players.

=Head net=—a contrivance for warding off insects.

=Headlight=—diamond.

=Headstone=—a memorial tablet at the head of a grave, often highly
decorativ (or supposedly so), and emblazoned with a choice compilation
of eulogistic lies.

=Health band=—same as Abdominal b.

=Heather=—a flower found in the meadows of the British kingdom; basis of
the yellow dye used in coloring Harris tweeds.

=Heather mixtures=—trade name for fabrics of no special pattern but
showing a color scheme resembling, tho faintly, a heather meadow.

=Heel=—the pieces of leather put together and placed on the outside of
the shoe immediately under the h. of the foot.

=Heel breast=—(shoemaking) the back of the h.

=Heel lift=—(1) an elastic device of rubber, cork and felt to wear
within shoes for the purpose of relieving the jar of walking, also to
throw up the instep; (2) one of the layers of leather used in forming
the h. of a shoe.

=Heel plate=—(1) a metal plate affixt to heels to prevent the leather
from undue wear or damage; (2) a metal attachment fastened to the h. of
a shoe for securing certain styles of ice skates securely thereto. See
Shoe p.

=Heel rand=—see Rand.

=Heel seat wheeling=—a little line of indentations made in the leather
around the h. (of a shoe) by a wheel, as one of the finishing
operations.

=Heel shaping=—a mechanical process, of course.

=Heel stay=—see H. strip.

=Heel strap=—sometimes called back s. A loop either of leather or woven
tape inserted in the top at the back of the shoe and used to draw the
shoe on the foot by inserting the finger thru the loop.

=Heel-strip=—a narrow band of leather or cloth sewn inside hems of
trousers where they rub on the heel.

=Heeling=—in modern shoemaking an entirely mechanical process, save for
laying the leather together and filling with nails the holes in a
nailing machine.

=Held-blistered edge=—drawn too tightly with the stay tape. (Tailoring
term.)

=Heliotrope=—a “heavy” perfume distilled from or in imitation of the
flower of the same name.

=Hemp=—see Kemp.

=Hemstitch=—an ornamental finish for hems, as in handkerchiefs, effected
by drawing a few threads parallel to the hem and connecting in groups by
stitching, the exposed threads running oppositly.

=Henrietta=—a sort of fine cashmere, usually with a silk warp.

=Hercules braid=—a flat, coarse ribbed worsted braid, of various widths,
used for ornament or decoration, largely for uniforms, and often called
military braid.

=Hermsdorff=—trade diminutiv for fast-black hosiery, etc., dyed by Louis
Hermsdorff, Chemnitz, and used in the sense of being a standard of
quality.

=Herringbone=—general term for patterns, produced in weaving, consisting
of short diagonal lines running warpwise, meeting and contrasting with
another series turned oppositly, with zigzag repetition; a fishbone
pattern.

=Herringbone stitch=—see Padding s.

=Hessians=—high boots, tassled in front, worn early in 19th century.

=Hickory shirting=—(1) a heavy, stout, plain-woven cotton material,
resembling gingham, heavily starcht and calendered, used for working
shirts. See Osnaburg. (2) Name also applied to a coarse twilled cotton
fabric, striped or checkt, also used for working shirts.

=Hides=—trade term for the skins of large animals, as horse, cow, ox,
etc. Compare Skins.

=Higgin=—the old-fashioned shoemaker’s pot of water for wetting soles.

=High-band=—trade term for high, turndown or folded shirt collars; also
called high-bander. See Meeting folder, Lock front, Fold collar, etc.

=High dutchers=—skates, the blades of which are ornamentally curled in
front; those without this ornamentation are called dumps.

=High heels=—a godsend for runts—and surgeons.

=High-pickt=—textil trade term for many threads to the inch.

=High polish=—laundry term for perverted elegance applied to one’s
linen.

=High-rise=—term applied to trousers cut high in the waist. See Rise.

=High-shouldered=—having pronounced shoulders of more than normal hight.

=Highwater=—derisiv term for trousers too short for the wearer.

=Highland gaiters=—overgaiters or spats.

=Hilt=—the handle and guard of a sword.

=Himation=—a square or oblong piece of cloth, more or less decorated,
worn by the early Greeks draped about the left shoulder and covering the
body (more or less) according to its adjustment.

=Hip=—that part of the body between the brim of the pelvis and the free
part of the thigh.

=Hip boots=—b. reaching to the hips.

=Hip pants=—see H. trousers.

=Hip pocket=—a p. placed horizontally in the rear portion of trousers,
between the waistband and seat; a breeding place of sudden death if
fortified.

=Hip-spring=—tailoring term indicating an allowance made for the
fullness of the hips in cutting a garment, as a waistcoat.

=Hip trousers=—t. intended to be worn without suspenders, and to be
sustained by the hips with or without the aid of a belt; usually cut
lower in the waist, and closer fitting there, than when suspenders are
to be worn.

=Hirsute appendage=—whiskers.

=Hob nails=—short n. with very broad, heavy heads, used for sporting
shoes, working brogans, etc., as a protection to the soles and for
surety of footing.

=Hockey glove=—a stout padded leather g. for protecting fingers, joints,
etc.

=Hockey leg guards=—see Shin g.

=Hockey shoe=—a laced s. with a strap across instep from side to side of
heel.

=Hog=—pigskin.

=Hog wool=—term given, in England, to w. clipt from lambs.

=Hoi polloi=—“gents” who wear “pants” and ready-tied neckwear.

=Hold-all=—a leather or canvas shawl roll or carrier. See Carry-all and
Wrap.

=Hold in=—tailoring term signifying, in the making of a garment, the
feat of getting a larger part neatly into a smaller opening, or seaming
a larger to a smaller part, or to work in an edge to less than its cut
dimension, for purposes of shapeliness, style, etc. Compare Stretch.

=Holland=—a fine, stout, compact, plain woven linen cloth, usually
unbleacht, sometimes slightly glazed, used as shirtings, suitings,
interlinings, etc.; originally made in Holland, whence name.

=Holster=—a carrier for the personal arsenal.

=Hollow ground=—cutler’s term indicating that a blade, as of a razor, is
ground concave instead of flat.

=Hombourg hat=—about same as Alpine or Fedora. See Tyrolean h.

=Homespun=—general name for the plain woven woolen suitings made by the
peasantry of the British isles, properly from undyed natural colored
homespun yarns, with or without an admixture of home dyed yarns, woven
on crude hand looms, and of rather loose, tho stout, texture and of
enormous durability. Modernly imitated on power looms.

=Honeycomb=—(1) an ornamental pattern, effected in the loom, applied
mostly to towelings, giving a resemblance to honeycomb cells; (2) a
raised effect in weaving, sometimes employed in worsted suitings.

=Hood=—a cloth covering for the head; sometimes attacht to overcoats and
capes, also to academic gowns, ornamentally so in this latter case.

=Hood overcoat=—any o. with an attacht or detachable hood; a military o.

=Hoods=—scholastic h. are made of the same material as the gowns; lined
with the official colors of the college or university conferring the
degree, or with which the recipients of academic honors from other
institutions may be connected, and are trimmed with velvet, the color
being distinctiv of the faculty to which the degree pertains. Thus: Arts
and Letters, white; Theology, scarlet; Law, purple; Medicin, green;
Philosophy, dark blue; Science, gold yellow; Fine arts, brown; Music,
pink; Pharmacy, olive; Dentistry, lilac; Veterinary, gray; Forestry,
russet; Library science, lemon.

=Hook-and-eye=—a small h. of double wire and an appropriate e. to engage
it; a garment fastening device.

=Hook-in=—to shorten, as of the gorge of a collar.

=Hop gloves=—white lisle g. in contradistinction to white cotton or
Berlin g. (West Point colloquialism.)

=Hop stick=—a crutch.

=Hopsacking=—a coarse, open-wove, woolen fabric, with a square or
checkered mesh in imitation of bagging, made in suiting and overcoating
weights.

=Horace Greeley hat=—a tall, felt “plug” h., later known as the (Grover)
Cleveland h.

=Horned alligator=—a leather characterized by its peculiar sharp ridges
or protuberances (the spinal ridge of the critter?).

=Hornoid=—trade name for a composition used for buttons in imitation of
real horn.

=Horns=—unseen articles of decoration sometimes worn by married men.

=Horse-shoe collar=—trade term for coat collars not made on a straight
line, but curved and twisted to fit corresponding hollows carved into
the neck of the coat. This is a c. that is easily made by machinery and
is a characteristic of most readymade clothing and cheap tailoring.
Compare Straight c.

=Horse show=—once a parade-show of horse-flesh and accomplishments;
nowadays a raree show of the frills and fripperies of human “fashion”
and vanity.

=Horsey=—applied to a straining after coaching or stable effects in
attire by those who think it smart.

=Hose=—general term for stockings, long, short and otherwise; anciently,
a sort of tights.

=Hosen=—obsolete plural of hose.

=Hosier=—British for “gent’s furnisher”.

=Hosier=—one who deals in hosiery and other knit goods. (Mostly of
British use.)

=Hosiery=—broadly comprehending stockings, tights and all branches of
the hosier’s business.

=Hot-water bag=—an article of temporary wear in illness.

=Houppelande=—(1) a kind of cloak or overgarment worn alike by men and
women in France in the 15th century, resembling somewhat a modern
dressing gown or kimona; (2) a name given in France, in the early part
of the last century, to a single-caped frock coat, sometimes called a
crispin cloak (qv).

=House coat=—a fancy lounging c. or jacket.

=House slippers=—homely solid comfort.

=Housemaid’s collar=—“British” for the highband folded or double shirt
c. (men’s—not women’s, mind you!).

=Hovie=—a mantle of state, worn about the time of the crusades, quite a
gorgeous affair and often hung with silver bells.

=Huckaback=—a heavy, coarse, rough linen or cotton toweling of a
birdseye, honeycomb or armure weave; commonly shortened to huck.

=Huddersfield=—a manufacturing town in Yorkshire and the chief seat of
the English cloth and woolen manufactures; a name commonly given in this
country to clay worsteds from the best coming from that town from the
mills of J. & B. Clay.

=Humeral veil=—an oblong scarf of the same material as the chasuble,
worn over the shoulders by sub-deacons at high mass and by priests when
giving the benediction or carrying the sacrament in procession.

=Humidor=—a casket designed to maintain a certain degree of moisture or
humidity in cigars kept therein.

=Hunting boot=—an extra heavy and high shoe of stout, waterproof
leather, foxt and double soled, with hobnails in sole and heel.

=Hunting cap=—a close-fitting, velvet c., with short visor.

=Hunting-case=—a watch-c. having the dial side as well as the back
protected by a cover or lid.

=Hunting coat=—a short, red cutaway—English, you know.

=Hunting costume=—those who ape British modes will please wear a “pink”
(i.e. vivid scarlet) frock coat with round-cornered bell skirt (or
“pink” morning coat), white corduroy or leather breeches, fancy
waistcoat, neck stock, top boots, and tall silk hat; appareled thus you
are fit to join William Waldorf Astor and other near-Britons.

=Hunting cuffs=—a finish on coat sleeves consisting of buttoned open
vents with, usually, a row or two of stitching in simulation of cuffs.

=Hunting frock=—a single-breasted f. coat with short full skirts.

=Hunting hat=—a silk h. with cord or guard to prevent loss.

=Hunting hood=—a knitted wool h. covering entire head (except face),
neck and upper shoulders, worn in cold countries by hardy hunters,
explorers, etc.

=Hunting sack=—a name given to single-breasted s. coats designed for
shooting purposes; usually with a turned down collar closing at the
throat and capacious patch pockets.

=Hunting shirt=—(1) a deerskin, blouse-like garment, in use amongst
trappers and frontiersmen; sometimes very ornamental; (2) any stout
woolen, cotton or linen s. of inconspicuous color.

=Husking cloth=—a heavy cotton ticking used for farmers’ gloves and
mittens.

=Husking glove=—a g. used by harvest hands for husking, etc.

=Hustling suit=—see Jepson.

=Hymeneal knot=—a style of k. that, with a little practise, is one of
the easiest tied and untied.

=Hyperion curls=—found in novels and in portraits of Roscoe Conkling.


                                   I

=Ice-cream hat=—a light-colored, soft felt h. on the telescope order,
extreme in some detail of color, shape or trimming, affected usually by
college boys and other irresponsibles.

=Idiot fringe=—football hair; bangs.

=Imitation=—not genuin; deceptiv; fraudulent.

=Imitation fur=—textil achievements, usually on a stockinet body, often
quite deceptiv; near-fur.

=Imitation haircloth=—a stiffening interlining fabric not made with
horse hair, but entirely or nearly so of heavily sized vegetable fibers,
tho some of the “better” grades have variously alternated real horse
hairs inserted. For tailoring purposes these poorer grades are
practically worthless. See Istle.

=Immaculate=—spotless.

=Imp=—one length of twisted hair in a fishing line.

=Imperial=—a cravat tied in a small, close knot and with long, wide,
flowing ends or apron.

=Imperial=—a pointed tuft of hair on the chin just under the lower lip;
so called because worn by Napoleon III.

=Imported=—“from the old world”, or elsewhere.

=Imprime=—French for printed; generally used in speaking of warp-printed
silks.

=In-and-out flap=—in tailoring a f. made the same size as the pocket so
it can be turned into same; the opposit of laid-on f., which may be
larger than the width of the pocket opening; the former the distinctiv
pocket f. of sack coats, the latter more often seen on frock coats.

=In-the-drag=—tailors’ term indicating that one is behind in his work
and has to “pull out”.

=In the flannel=—see Flannel.

=In the grease=—term for fleece marketed as clipt from the sheep;
unwasht.

=In the gum=—silk that has not been “boiled off”.

=Inauguration cloth=—a variant of coronation c., used in this country
during the vogue of the former and about the time of a presidential
inauguration.

=Inch tape=—a t. measure.

=Incline measures=—m. taken by tailors to ascertain if a customer is
erect or stooping, carries his head forward or backward, has large or
flat blades, etc., and how much.

=Incroyable=—a name given to politicians and dandies (imagine,
politicians!) of the time of the (French) Directorate (1795–99), who
made extremity in dress a cult—they wore the highest collars, the
chokingest cravats, the most pretentious canes and were otherwise much
like the precieuses ridicules of Moliere’s time.

=India silk=—a soft, thin, untwilled s. fabric, woven like fine muslin.

=Indian gown=—see Banyan.

=Indian tanned=—name given to a slow process of preparing leather for
the market, by curing the raw hides with salt and repeated immersions in
bark solutions, usually requiring as many weeks to complete as acid
tanning (qv) does days, but resulting in a softer, more pliable and more
durable leather.

=Indigo=—a deep blue dye obtained from several plants of the genus
Indigofera, native of India and Asia and also found in Africa and South
America; known from the most remote times; a permanent color.

=Indigo test=—the common t. for i.-blue on wool is to drop a small
quantity of nitric acid on the goods and leave it to dry out, when, if
the goods are pure i., the center of the spot will be a bright yellow
with a border of green. For testing on cotton the simplest and safest
way is to burn a piece of the goods on a porcelain plate; if the color
is i., that part of the plate where the i. burns will be covered with a
blue film; no other coloring matter will show a similar reaction.

=Inexpressibles=—prudery for trousers, outer as well as under.

=Infantry uniform=—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u.,
Fatigue u., et var.

=Infielder’s glove=—a padded g. of buckskin or other stout leather for
baseball players.

=Informal dress=—see Day d.

=Ingrain=—dyed in the yarn or in a raw state.

=Inlaid collar=—in tailoring, a c. partly of the material of the garment
and partly of velvet, the latter laid under the cloth and forming a sort
of border or frame around it. Compare Laid-on c.

=Inner leaf=—see Leaf.

=Inseam=—in tailoring, the inner seam of the leg of a pair of trousers;
sometimes also called the crotch seam; also the forearm seam of a
sleeve.

=Inseam=—(glove term) a plain turned-in seam, used only with the heavier
leathers.

=Inside back=—the inner lining of a vest, particularly the back part
thereof.

=Inside breast pocket=—a p. made within the lining of a coat, ordinarily
on the right side only, should there be an outside b. p., but if none,
then on both sides.

=Inside pocket=—any p. made on the i. of a garment, usually within the
lining, as in coats and waistcoats.

=Inside shop=—in the clothing business, any s. (usually on the
manufacturer’s premises) where the manufacturer hires the workmen thru a
foreman. See Outside s.

=Inside ticket pocket=—a small p. within the right-hand p. of a coat.

=Insignia=—any device or decoration used by orders, societies or
governments as signs or marks of office or distinction.

=Insignia of rank=—(=army=) devices worn on the collar of the uniform,
as follows: general and lieutenant general, such as they may prescribe;
major general, two silver stars; brigadier general, 1 silver star;
colonel, 1 silver spread eagle; lieutenant colonel, 1 silver leaf;
major, 1 gold leaf; captain, 2 silver bars; first lieutenant, 1 silver
bar. Also shoulder straps, similarly markt, as well as other regulation
distinguishments—better read the department rules and regulations.

=Insole=—any inner lining or sole of a shoe, whether a fixt part thereof
or removable.

=Instructor’s glove=—a boxing g. for teachers of the manly art, so
constructed as to do no hurt.

=Insurance=—getting some rich corporation to pay you for burning up.

=Interlining=—any textil or other material placed between the cloth and
the lining proper of a garment for purposes of shape, strength,
stiffening, etc.

=Intimate=—cant term for shirt.

=Inventory=—a detailed account of merchandise, accounts and business
transacted; that on which hopes of advanced salaries rise or fall.

=Inverness=—a long, loose overcoat with cape, but without sleeves, for
evening dress wear.

=Inverted seam=—sewn inside out.

=Invisible patch=—cobbler’s term for a patch applied by cement to a worn
or damaged spot, the edges of the p. having first been shaved thin to
leave little or no ridge or seam.

=Invisible stitch=—in tailoring, any s. not permitted to come to the
surface, as a felling s., pricking s., etc.

=Invisible suspenders=—s. worn underneath the shirt or shirtwaist and
attaching to the trousers buttons, usually by means of loop hooks,
commonly worn with summer attire when it is desired to appear without a
vest or coat or both.

=I. O. O. F. coat=—same as Masonic Sir Knight’s c., but with 9 buttons
instead of 11.

=I. O. U.=—familiar term for chirographical curiosities collected,
largely as a fad, perhaps, by tailors.

=Iridescent=—color-glitter; an effect of weaving.

=Irish linen=—general term for fine, plain-woven full bleacht linen
cloth for shirt bosoms, collars and cuffs, handkerchiefs, etc.; usually
36 inches wide.

=Iron=—lots of it used to weight cheap silks.

=Iron cloth=—a fabric manufactured from steel wool, having the
appearance of having been woven from horsehair and used for stiffening
certain kinds of coat collars, such as standing collars on uniforms,
etc.

=Iron garters=—cant for leg irons.

=Iron-yarn=—lustrene (qv).

=Ironing=—a finishing process in felt hat manufacturing.

=Ironing=—a finishing process used on the uppers of some kinds of shoes,
a peculiarly shaped iron being used, in modern practise heated by
electricity, sometimes by a lamp or flame. The process is used to smooth
out the wrinkles and creases formed in the leather by handling the shoes
thru the factory in the earlier manufacturing stages, the shoe being
placed on a form during the operation.

=Irons=—see Cokers.

=Istle=—the fiber of a Mexican plant used for cheap brushes, imitation
haircloth, etc. Also called Tampico, Mexican fiber, etc.

=Italian cloth=—a plain colored, twill woven fabric, resembling heavy
satine or jeans, composed of cotton warp with worsted or mohair filling;
also of both cotton warp and weft.

=Ivory=—tusks of the elephant, hippopotamus, narwhal, walrus, etc. See
also I. nut and Vegetable i.

=Ivory nut=—the seed of a Venezuela palm (phytelephas macrocarpa); when
dry is very hard and resembles natural ivory in textur and color; made
into buttons, etc. See Vegetable i.


                                   J

=Jabot=—the shirt-frill or ruffle we wore in the 18th century; a fancy
falling band.

=Jacerma=—a sort of short doublet, part of the national costume of
Hungary.

=Jack-a-dandy=—some sort of a fop.

=Jack boots=—(1) originally, large top b., reaching above the knees and
worn defensivly; (2) riding b. with a large frontpiece at the knees; (3)
heavy top b. reaching above the knees, worn by fishermen and others.

=Jack-knife=—a large, strong clasp k. for the pocket; in the navy worn
with a lanyard.

=Jack-towel=—a roller t.

=Jackanapes=—another sort of a fop.

=Jacket=—(1) a short coat, usually not extending to the knees; a sack
coat; (2) the sack coat worn by servants.

=Jacket suit=—same as sack s. and lounge s. (qv).

=Jacobite=—a shirt collar.

=Jaconet=—a light, soft white cotton cloth, similar to cambric, but
heavier, used for undergarments, night shirts, etc.

=Jacquard loom=—a l. for weaving fancy figured goods as damasks, etc.

=Jaeger=—trade diminutiv for the sanitary natural wool underwear, etc.,
introduced by Dr. S. Jaeger, a German scientist who advocates the
wearing of nothing but natural wool garments inside and out, as well as
for sleeping, house furnishings, etc., and by extension applied to other
makes of natural wool underwear.

=Jag=—in New England, a parcel, bundle, or load; an old English
provincialism which has held its ground colloquially on this side of the
Atlantic. Jag is also a slang term for an umbrella, possibly from that
article being so constantly carried. Also descriptiv of being so happy
with foolish froth that one can’t stand steadily.

=Jail clothes=—see Prison uniform.

=Jam=—cant for gold ring.

=Jansenist=—see Wig.

=Jant=—jaunty or stylish (?) (1816).

=Janus cloth=—a two-faced (sic) plain-woven worsted c.

=Japan=—a sort of varnish for metallic things.

=Japanned leather=—term for varnisht leathers, of which patent l. and
enamel l. are varieties.

=Jardiniere=—weaving term for flowery effects; many-colored.

=Jasper=—in weaving, a seeded or pepper-and-salt effect, rather more
distinctiv than Oxford (qv).

=Java=—a straw hat braid.

=Jean=—a stout, round twilled cloth, either all-cotton or cotton warp
with wool filling; of various grades and finishes; used principally for
working trousers.

=Jean de Bry=—a long skirted coat of about 1810, the tails of which were
twice the length of the body part.

=Jeannet=—a coarse variety of jean (qv) differing structurally in that
the warp instead of the weft threads form the twill. (=Jeannette.=)

=Jellab=—a hooded woolen garment, somewhat like a blouse, worn by Moors
and Arabs. Corruption of Jellabia.

=Jemmy=—a fop.

=Jenny=—a spinning machine.

=Jepson=—a one-piece suit of clothes for men, invented by Edgar Jepson,
an Englishman, at about the turn of the present century—a sort of
combination coat and trousers intended mainly for work and play wear,
rather than for social intercourse, the inventor himself wearing, then,
the regulation attire. Also called “loose skins”.

=Jerkin=—a sort of waistcoat, still in use in North of England; formerly
a jacket, short coat, or upper-doublet.

=Jersey=—a sort of sweater.

=Jersey cloth=—a stockinet c. of silk and wool or wool-and-cotton; very
elastic. Compare Stockinet.

=Jet=—a variety of hard, dense, black mineral coal, capable of a
brilliant polish, used in making buttons, ornaments, mourning jewelry,
etc. Also called black amber.

=Jetted pocket=—in tailoring, a slit or slasht p., having a small strip
or piece of the material seamed on and turned over inside, forming a
cord at the turned edge and acting as a facing within. Also called
Corded p.

=Jeunesse doree=—gay youth.

=Jewel case=—a container for jewelry.

=Jeweler’s rouge=—hematite (red oxid of iron) ground to an impalpable
powder; used for polishing.

=Jeweler’s sawdust=—finely grained boxwood s.; used as a cleansing and
drying agent on gems and jewelry.

=Jewelry=—ostentatious bedizenment.

=Jiji japa=—(1) the fiber of a South American plant of same name, made
into hats much like Panama hats, but considerably cheaper; (2) a hat of
this fiber. (Pronounced hehe happa.)

=Jilted pocket=—see Jetted p. (Corruption.)

=Job lot=—general term applied to odd lots of merchandise set apart for
sale at reduced prices.

=Jobber=—(1) one who purchases merchandise in large lots and resells in
smaller; (2) a contractor for a mill’s output.

=Jock-strap=—vulgarism for the plain suspensory customarily worn by
athletes. See Suspensory.

=Jockey cap=—a small skull c. of silk or satin with a prodigious visor
of same material, in the color or colors of the horse’s owner.

=Jockey club=—a well-known perfume once quite popular with men.

=Jockey lift=—a metal device used in drawing on livery boots, serving at
the same time to hold the breeches securely in place while boot is being
pulled on.

=Johnny Jones hat=—see Telescope h.—it’s a bit more rakish.

=Join=—tailor’s term for seams generally, and specially for the notcht
or markt parts of a seam.

=Joining paste=—a preparation used by actors to blend the wigband with
the forehead in making up.

=Join-up=—the process of sewing the two halves of a coat or trousers
together.

=Joseph=—the caped surtout of olden days; a riding coat; also called
wrap-rascal (qv).

=Josette=—a heavy twilled cotton cloth similar to khaki, used for riding
breeches, sporting wear, etc.

=Josie=—see Joseph.

=Jour=—tailoring workshop abbreviation for journeyman (qv).

=Journeyman=—a workman who has completed his apprenticeship or learned
his trade.

=Joury=—a local familiar name applied to fellow “jours”.

=Jouvin=—trade diminutiv for gloves made by Jouvin et Cie., Grenoble,
France. Xavier Jouvin was the inventor of an automatic glove cutting
machine.

=Jowhir=—the “watering” of a Damascus blade; “damascening”.

=Judge’s gown=—a plain, open g. of black silk, without collar, and with
wide, flowing sleeves.

=Judge’s wig=—a large, full-bottomed w. of precise curls, with a flap
hanging down in front on each side of the face. (English.)

=Judgment=—a favorit word with cutters in criticism of (tailoring)
“systems”—especially those who make great pretensions but who do not as
regularly “make good”.

=Judicial gown=—see Judge’s g.

=Jumper=—a workman’s loose outer-jacket or blouse.

=Jumper=—a mechanical pressing machine used in clothing factories, so
called because the operator jumps on a lever to secure extra pressure.

=Juniors=—trade term for boy’s clothing, generally.

=Junk=—(1) any miscellaneous lot or collection of goods; (2) goods of
very inferior quality.

=Jupe=—a heavy jacket. (Same as below?)

=Jupon=—a sort of surcoat without sleeves, tight fitting, but shorter
than the hauberk (qv) over which it was worn; almost always made of rich
stuffs and blazoned with the arms of the wearer. (About 1400 A. D.)

=Justice’s gown=—see Judge’s g.


                                   K

=Kaikai=—a thin, plain-woven, cheap Japanese silk fabric, usually in
warp stripes.

=Kanaka wolf=—(1) a w. of the Sandwich Islands, or loosely, of any of
the South Sea Islands; (2) the fur thereof.

=Kangaroo=—a herbivorous macropodoid, marsupial mammal of Australasia,
whose hide, when tanned, becomes a soft, supple, durable, shoe leather.

=Karat=—see Carat.

=Kemp=—(1) straight, coarse, shiny fibers or “dead hairs”, conspicuous
in coarse-bred wool; (2) a mixture of short, coarse, white hairs and
wool fibers, occurring chiefly where the fleece is lightest and
shortest.

=Kennel coat=—see Paddock.

=Kentucky jeans=—a superior quality of jeans (qv).

=Kerchief=—see Handkerchief and Neckerchief.

=Kersey=—a heavy, all-wool cloth, compact, firm and pliable, gigged and
fulled to a degree completely covering and concealing the warp and weft
threads, the face finisht with a fine, short, close nap; of quality
depending on the wool used, the cheaper grades often being thickened
with flocks. Also a twill woven cloth of cotton warp and wool weft,
similarly finisht, used for the cheaper grades of clothing.

=Kerseymere=—(1) a fine, twilled, woolen cloth of peculiar texture, 1
thread of warp and 2 of weft being always above; (2) a name sometimes
given to cassimere.

=Kerseynette=—cassinette.

=Kevenhuller=—a cockt hat with the crown wholly hidden, the middle of
the front brim being the highest point; this succeeded the cockt hat
(qv) of the 1770’s.

=Key chain=—a metal chain for attaching Mr. Staylate’s bunch of keys to
a trouser’s button.

=Key ring=—a more or less complex safety device from which keys are
easily lost.

=Khaki=—a browny-drab or dust-colored cloth of cotton or cotton and
linen, of stout texture, compactly woven with a slight twill, adopted by
various governments for field service dress; also used by civilians for
riding breeches, hunting clothes, etc.

=Khaki cap=—(=marine corps=) for all officers, of same pattern as blue
undress c., the base of the c. all around to a depth of ¼ in. of dark
blue cloth, a ½ in. black patent leather strap, bronze corps device and
buttons.

=Kicker=—a customer who doesn’t seem to be satisfied.

=Kicking for a job=—tailor’s term for applicants for work.

=Kicks=—slang for trousers.

=Kicksie=—one of many names for children’s romping clothes, especially
of the bloomer order; sometimes applied to drawers, pantalets, etc.

=Kid=—leather made from young goats for gloves, shoes, etc.

=Kid=—wool classification term. See Wool.

=Kids=—kid gloves.

=Kihei=—a sort of mantle, about 6 feet square, of tapa bark (see Malo)
once (and perhaps occasionally now) worn by both sexes in Hawaii; by the
men as a sort of upper garment, by tying 2 corners on one side together
and putting the head thru the opening so made.

=Kike=—contemptuous term for unscrupulous, tricky Hebrew merchants and
manufacturers; a term little used outside of the apparel trades and
seldom heard in connection with large concerns.

=Kill=—in tailoring, a garment that cannot be made satisfactory, after
repeated alterations is said to be “a kill from the start”; a misfit;
any garment not made according to specifications and which must be
replaced by a new one.

=Kilmarnock=—a Scotch cap.

=Kilt=—(1) originally that part of a Scotchman’s belted plaid which hung
below the waist; modernly, a separate garment like a short plaited
petticoat reaching from the waist to the knees, commonly made of clan
tartan goods; (2) a children’s garment like the modern k. of any
material—a step between dresses and pants.

=Kilt hose=—long, heavy, woolen h., usually with fancy tops that are
rolled or turned back several times to form a sort of cuff at about the
hight of the calf.

=Kimona=—in old Japan the characteristic dress of both sexes; nowadays,
in this land, the garment that makes a woman look dowdy to her husband
and entrancing to someone else’s husband.

=Kip=—see Kips.

=Kips=—the skins of yearlings and animals larger than calves.

=Kiss-me-quick=—a curl or fashioned lock of hair on one side of the
forehead.

=Kit bag=—a commodious leather traveling b., having a flat, rectangular
bottom and sloping sides.

=Kit pack=—a sort of half boot of the long, long ago.

=Kite tail=—term applied to a make of athletic underwear, having the
skirt (of the shirt) cut away over the hips, leaving flaps or tails in
front and behind.

=K K=—tailor’s hoglatin for sawhorsy legs.

=Kleptomaniac=—a shoplifter (qv) of social position.

=Klondyke cap=—a c. usually made of fur, having a round crown, a large
visor and ear tabs connected behind and tied over the top when not worn
down.

=Knapsack=—a pouch or case of leather or stout cloth, used by soldiers,
travelers, prospectors, etc., for carrying light personal luggage,
usually worn strapt to the back.

=Knee band=—the lower hem or finishing-piece on knickerbockers or
breeches; made to close with buttons, straps or lacings.

=Knee breeches=—same as Breeches. Compare Knickerbockers.

=Knee breeches=—the first important event in a boy’s life.

=Knee-buckle=—old name for short trousers or breeches for dress wear.

=Knee buckles=—objects of splendor when breeches were in form; oftenest
of silver.

=Knee cap=—an external covering for the knees, worn as a protection by
carpenters, carpet layers, et al.

=Knee drawers=—reaching only to the knee, specially devised for summer
comfort.

=Knee protectors=—shields of leather or other material, worn, when not
out of sight, by youngsters when playing marbles and other destructiv
innocent games.

=Knee silk=—thin, tough s. sewed inside knees of trousers to relieve the
strain and prevent bagging.

=Knee staking=—a process in leather manufacture, where the dyed and
dried skins are still further stretcht, loosened and made pliable by
pressure of a workman’s bare knee on the leather brought quickly down
the stake.

=Knee warmers=—stockinet or other knitted elastic, wool, silk or cotton
coverings for persons afflicted with cold, weak or rheumatic knee
joints.

=Kneipp linen=—an elastic, mesh-knitted, linen fabric used for
undergarments.

=Knickerbocker=—weaving term for ornamental effects produced by using
yarns of two single threads twisted and containing added loose wool at
intervals, which, when woven, gives a shaggy or lumpy appearance. See
Bourette and Boucle.

=Knickerbocker drawers=—knee length.

=Knickerbockers=—knee breeches with loose, baggy knees, usually fastened
with strap and band, instead of close-fitting cuffs. Compare Breeches.

=Knife lanyard=—a sling of knitted, bleacht white cotton, worn by
enlisted men in the navy, long enough when around the neck to allow a
knife to be used with arm extended.

=Knights of Pythias coat=—same as Masonic Sir Knights c., but with 9
buttons instead of 11.

=Knights Templar coat=—see Sir Knights c.

=Knit=—See Knitting.

=Knitted cloth=—a fine, closely knitted fabric of silk or mercerized
cotton yarn, made in Saxony and but little known in this country;
principal uses gloves and underwear for the European market.

=Knitted vest=—a sort of cardigan jacket or sweater of any material and
degree of fineness, fashioned much like an ordinary waistcoat.

=Knitting=—the process of forming a fabric out of a single thread by
means of needles on which the thread or yarn is placed in a succession
of loops, so arranged in rows that each loop in one row passes thru the
adjacent loop in the preceding row.

=Knitting machine=—any machine for knitting fabrics or garments, usually
employing a series of barbed or hooked needles.

=Knitting wool=—fleece too long and coarse for fine weaving purposes.
See Wool.

=Knock-kneed=—knees that turn inwardly or rub against each other in
walking. See K.-k.

=Knockabout=—any rough-and-ready clothes or garment; more specifically,
a loose overcoat or “slip-on”.

=Knocker=—the man who finds fault with this book because he happens to
know more about a certain subject than is given in the definition. This
is a book of “handy reference”—not a text book.

=Knopt yarn=—weft yarn distinguisht by lumps or knots, usually of
different color, at uniform or varying distances thruout its length.
(=Knopped.=)

=Knot=—a cravat with flowing ends, tied the same as a four-in-hand.

=Knuckle duster=—a metal weapon used to protect the knuckles and to add
force to a blow. See Brass k.; also called (slang) “knucks” (qv).

=Knuckle mitt=—a small cushion of padded leather, with a strap, worn for
punching bag practise and exhibitions.

=Knucks=—thug’s finger jewelry, so constructed as to be of much efficacy
in a fracas.

=Krimmer=—Persian lamb; the curly gray fur of commerce.

=Kris=—a large dagger, used by the Malays—Englisht “crease”.

=Kt=—abbreviation for karat or carat (qv).


                                   L

=Label=—a badge, stamp or any distinguishing mark, affixt to articles of
merchandise.

=Lace=—once used for men’s neckwear. See encyclopedia if you wish to
know more.

=Lace stay=—a piece of tape or similar material placed between the
thicknesses of the leather in the uppers of shoes to strengthen the
uppers where the lacing eyelets or hooks are inserted.

=Lace-up boots=—Briticism for laced shoes.

=Lace work=—trade term for open work designs in hosiery.

=Lacrosse gloves=—same as Hockey g.

=Ladies-cloth=—a fine, wide flannel, slightly napt, similar to
broadcloth.

=Lagniappe=—something thrown in over and above; good measure. Current in
New Orleans—but fast disappearing from use. See Brotus.

=Laguna=—trade name for a variety of wood from the Philippine islands,
used for walking sticks.

=Laid-on flap=—in tailoring a f. not sewed into the pocket opening but
laid on above it, usually wider than the opening, as the side pockets of
frock coats. See In-and-out f.

=Laid-on velvet collar=—in tailoring a c. partly of velvet and partly of
the material of the garment, the former laid upon the cloth but not
covering it, usually to within half an inch or so of the edge, the
exposed cloth forming a sort of border or frame. Compare Inlaid c.

=Laid wool=—w. clipped from sheep that have been greased or tarred as a
protection from the weather.

=L’Aiglon coat=—a sort of cutaway frock c. made familiar by Sarah
Bernhardt when she appeared in Rostand’s play of that name as Duc de
Reichstadt.

=Lamb’s wool=—the first clip from young sheep. Compare Wether w.

=Lamps=—spectacles or eye-glasses.

=Lance=—textil term for woven effects like minute darts, points, specks,
etc.

=Lap-and-foot robe=—an adjustable rubber or cloth lap r. for automobile
wear, serving as over-trousers, robe and foot-muff.

=Lap-board=—an oblong board, round at the ends, laid on the lap of the
workman, upon which the seams and other parts of a garment are presst in
the process of making.

=Lap front=—a straight standing shirt collar without front opening, but
lapping one end over the other when buttoned.

=Lap robe=—a rug for driving or traveling.

=Lap seam=—a s. made by overlapping or laying on, instead of turning in;
one edge laid or lapt over the other and sewn twice. See Double-stitcht
s.

=Lap seam=—(glove term) see Pique s.

=Lapel=—(1) the length of a dress coat in front, or from the gorge seam
down to the waist seam; (2) the narrow strip—square at the lower end and
angular at the upper end—which is sewed to the front of double-breasted
frock coats; (3) the roll or “lay-over” of the front of a sack coat or
any coat; the most observable part of a coat collar.

=Lapel button=—coat jewelry, usually bearing lodge emblem.

=Lapel fob=—a watch f. or short chain of metal, leather, etc., worn
attacht to the l. buttonhole, the watch being carried in the outside
breast pocket of coat; also called Watch Albert.

=Lapel forepart=—the sewed-on lapel of a double-breasted frock coat. See
L. seam and Frock coat.

=Lapel seam=—the s. caused by sewing the back edge of the lapel strip to
the front edge of the forepart.

=Lapidary=—one who cuts, grinds, polishes and mounts precious stones and
other gems.

=Lappet=—a small lap or flap.

=Lappet weaving=—a method of producing small figures or designs on
cloth, having the appearance of being darned or embroidered; special
warp threads being introduced and made to cross small sections of the
regular warp, manipulated by a lappet or needle attachment.

=Lares and Penates=—one’s household gods; loosely one’s belongings of
all sorts.

=Last=—a wooden form on which shoes are made.

=Lasting=—a strong, closely woven, double-twill, worsted fabric, mostly
used for buttons and shoe tops.

=Lasting=—the process of giving shape to a shoe.

=Lasting button=—a b. made on a mold covered with lasting cloth; worn on
evening dress almost exclusively.

=Latch key=—a door k. that sometimes does not fit.

=Latchet=—a shoe lace or fastener of a sandal.

=Latin cassock=—differing from the Anglican c. in that it buttons all
the way down the front with the cincture knotted forward of the left
hip.

=Launder=—to wash and iron, as articles of clothing.

=Laundry=—the place of destruction.

=Laundry bag=—better than a newspaper for your soiled linen.

=Laundryman=—keeper of the place of torment.

=Laundry marks=—causes of profanity.

=Lavant=—see Wig.

=Lavender=—a nice, clean scent for linen.

=Laventine=—a thin silk used for sleeve linings.

=Lawyer’s=—see Wig.

=Lay=—in garment making the disposition of the paper patterns upon the
cloth prior to cutting, so arranged as to effect economy of material,
achieve exact matching of patterns, etc.

=Lay down collar=—a low, folded linen shirt c.

=Lay-out=—see Lay.

=Lay-over=—see Lapel.

=Lay-up=—in shirt collar making the successiv layers of linen or cotton
cloth laid out on tables and from which by means of patterns and a sharp
knife a number of collars or parts are cut at one time.

=Layette=—a fussy outfit of clothes, etc., provided in anticipation of
units affecting the birthrate.

=Leaf=—in tailoring, a word used to describe the folded part of a collar
(exclusiv of the lapels). The ordinary coat collar consists of an outer
l., or that part folded over, and an inner l., or that part on the
inside of the fold, also called the “stand”. Used alone the word leaf
means outer l.

=Leaf=—a division of warp threads in weaving for the insertion of the
weft; a loom harness.

=Leather=—cant term for pocketbook—to “pull off leather”, is, therefore,
to steal pocketbooks or purses.

=Leathers=—colloquial for coachmen’s kidskin livery breeches.

=Left dress=—the right way. See Dress.

=Left-overs=—goods carried over from one season or “sale” to another.

=Left twill=—weaving term indicating that the direction of the rib (as
of serge, cheviot, etc.) leads from the bottom of the cloth (held
lengthwise) upwardly to the left. See Right t.

=Leg irons=—climbing irons; also shackles.

=Leggin=—a covering for the leg like a long gaiter; a protector in cold
or wet weather or outdoor sports. (=Legging.=) See Puttee.

=Leghorn=—a light-weight hat straw, usually in herringbone weave.

=Leipzig dye=—an unusually rich color (and finish) given to sealskins
and other furs dyed in Leipzig, which it seems impossible to obtain
elsewhere. Compare London d.

=Let out=—to make larger or longer.

=Letter-carrier’s uniform=—see Postman’s u.

=Leur=—a hatter’s brushing pad.

=Levantine=—a stout twilled silk, each side finisht equally but of
different colors.

=Levelling=—a mechanical process in shoemaking, following the operation
of Goodyear stitching, whereby the turn-up of the channel is prest down
or leveled by means of two rolls moving automatically back and forth
with a pressure of about 5000 pounds.

=Levy=—eleven pence, the value of the Spanish real, which circulated in
this country some years ago. (Pronounced levvy.)

=Lid=—a hat—slang, of course.

=Lid=—a pocket flap.

=Lieutenant’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Special full dress, Full dress,
Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress; (=marine
corps=) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field
dress; (=revenue cutter service=) Full dress, Dress, Service dress,
Social full dress; (=army=) Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u.
See also variations.

=Lieutenant general’s uniform=—see Full dress, Dress u., White u.,
Service u. Also see variants.

=Life belt=—a belt of inflated rubber, or one containing cork, for use
as a life preserver.

=Life preserver=—a cork-filled belt, ring or jacket worn, if obtainable,
after accidents at sea.

=Lifters=—cant for crutches.

=Ligne=—a unit of measurement: ¹⁄₁₁ of an inch (ribbon measure), ¹⁄₄₀ of
an inch (button measure), etc.; the rib of a braid; as 6 ribs is 6
ligne, etc.

=Lily irons=—confederate handcuffs.

=Limericks=—a name once given to gloves of such delicate thinness, that
altho they would fit a large hand, they would fold up into the compass
of a walnut shell. From the town of that name, once famous for its glove
industry. For the nature of the leather see Morts and Slinks.

=Limestone wool=—powdered limestone mixt with chemicals, subjected to
heat and strong air-blast, coming out as fluffy white wool, which is
woven into a flexible fabric used for clothing.

=Liming=—a process in leather preparation following that of sweating
(qv), whereby roots of hairs are loosened.

=Line=—the fine, long fiber of flax, separated from the tow by heckling.

=Line=—see Ligne.

=Lined gold=—see Rolled g.

=Linen=—general name for fabrics woven from yarns spun from the fiber of
flax; nothing like reading an encyclopedic article.

=Linen mesh=—a net or cellular sort of weave, of linen, used for
undergarments.

=Linen prover=—see Counting glass.

=Linen test=—see Breaking t., Burning t., Oil t., Sulfuric acid t.,
Thru-lighting t., Untwisting t.

=Lining=—general term for materials used for covering the inner side of
a garment or anything. In men’s clothing usually silk, Italian cloth,
farmer’s satin, serge, alpaca, silesia, etc.

=Links=—(1) shirt cuffs not closed or overlapping at the ends when
buttoned; (2) double-headed buttons worn with link cuffs, of the
dumb-bell or loose-link variety; (3) two coat buttons joined by workt
strands of silk thread, worn sometimes in dress and frock coats, also in
open vented sleeves.

=Linocord=—proprietary name given to a style of buttonhole for collars
and cuffs having a line of heavy thread or cord (whence name) past and
worked around the aperture.

=Linsey-woolsey=—a stout, medium-weight cloth made with linen warp and
wool filling; a homespun and homewoven fabric of colonial days, now
practically obsolete.

=Lirripipe=—a sort of tippet, tempus Richard II.

=Lisle thread=—a fine, hard twisted, compact t. of long staple cotton
prepared by combing instead of by carding, employed in the manufacture
of fine hosiery, underwear, gloves, etc.

=List=—the selvage of woven textil fabrics.

=List slippers=—cloth s.

=Litter=—a temporary bed upon which a wounded or sick person is carried.

=Little Lord Fauntleroy=—an impossible kid that started a clothes cult.

=Live net=—a netted-mesh bag for bringing home fish, made much like a
woman’s shopping bag.

=Liver pad=—slang for chest protector (qv).

=Livery=—the dress or uniform of servants.

=Livery=—see Wool.

=Livery cloth=—see Boxcloth.

=Livery tailor=—one who makes a specialty of and whose business consists
largely if not entirely of the making of dress and undress livery and
uniforms.

=Livery undress=—groom’s frock or sack stable suit, made of tan, brown
or black mixt whipcord. The frock coat may be worn with either trousers
or breeches and leggings.

=Living-in=—term describing the manner of employment of English shop
assistants who are generally boarded with or at the expense of their
employers in quarters above the stores or in specially maintained
dormitories or barracks; a survival of the old system of apprenticeship,
but which, under pressure of public opinion and modern business ideas,
is dying away to the greater independence and welfare of the clerks.

=Lizzie=—a mental dude.

=Llama=—a soft, glossy, woolen suiting woven with a fine twill; a finer
and more expensiv cloth than vicuna (which it resembles), properly made
from the fleece of the Llama goat, tho largely mixt with cheaper wool.

=Loaded=—dyer’s term for fabrics surcharged with gums and other
dressings for extra or fraudulent weight.

=Loading=—see Weighting.

=Lock front=—trade term for shirt collars of the folded variety having
one blade or end so shaped and extended as to go within the opposit fold
and hold the collar firmly in position or “lock” it. See also Meeting
folder and Spaced front.

=Lock-out=—the shutting up of a mill, factory or store because the
owners will not agree to demands of employes or because latter would not
agree to work on terms offered by the employers.

=Lock stitch=—see Chain s.

=Lockram=—a cheap, coarse linen fabric, originally made in Locrenan,
Brittany.

=Locust=—familiar for policeman’s club; a night stick.

=Loden=—a waterproof cloth made by the peasants in the Tyrol from wool
of mountain sheep; resembles Irish frieze, and is mostly used for
knockabout shirts for mountain climbing, hunting, prospecting, etc.

=Logwood=—the blue-black dye obtained from the tree of that name.

=Loin cloth=—complete attire in hot, uncivilized countries—among the
natives.

=London=—the mere name was once virtually deified and counted the
arbiter elegantiarum in men’s wear.

=London dye=—trade term for the rich brown d. of sealskins, especially
employed when the skins are actually dyed in London. Compare Leipzig d.

=London fashions=—a term of conjuration used by tailors and readymaders
alike but having no significance apart from the casuistry of the words.

=London letter=—a fashion l. written in New York or anywhere but London.

=London shrunk=—see Cold water s.

=London toe=—in shoemaking, a medium broad t.

=Long dresses=—the clothes of early infancy.

=Long measures=—general term for those systems of tailors’ measurements
characterized by the taking of as few and as comprehensiv measurements
as necessary to lay out a pattern, which measurements are subdivided in
drafting, as required to give other dimensions not taken on the victim
on the block. Compare Short m. and Superlativ m.

=Long moire=—m. antique (qv).

=Long neckt=—see Low-n.

=Long pants=—the first important event in a boy’s life.

=Long roll=—tailor’s term for lapels or revers buttoning low and usually
soft-prest.

=Long-slim=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit tall,
slender persons. Compare Slim, Long-stout and Longs.

=Long staple=—having a long fiber. See Cotton and Wool. Compare Short s.

=Long-stout=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit corpulent
persons of more than average hight.

=Long tail=—see Wig.

=Long togs=—nautical term for civilian clothes.

=Long vamp=—Synonymous with whole v., as compared with a short or
cut-off v., a whole v., not having that part of the v. covering the
toes, about the size of a tip on the ordinary shoe, cut off. By cutting
off a little of the v. at this point a saving is made in the leather,
and, therefore, in the cost of a shoe; but with some leathers, however,
it makes a better shoe.

=Long wool=—fleece 4 to 10 inches long. See Wool.

=Longs=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit tall men.
Compare Slim, Long-slim and Long-stout.

=Longs=—early familiar term for pantaloons or trousers. Compare Shorts.

=Lonsdale=—a brand of shirting muslin and cambric.

=Looking glass=—a reflector of vanities. See Mirror.

=Loom=—a machine in which yarn or thread is woven into a fabric, by the
crossing of threads called chain or warp, running lengthwise, with
others called weft, woof or filling, running crosswise.

=Loom card=—a perforated pattern card, such as is used on the Jacquard
loom.

=Loom figured=—textil term for patterns or effects produced by
arrangement of warp and weft threads in contradistinction to those made
by printing; “self-figured”.

=Loom harness=—that portion of a loom which so operates or acts upon the
warp threads as to make the opening thru which the shuttle flies.

=Loomask=—a kind of half mask. See Loup.

=Looney=—an oblong, flattened pad, used in pressing and giving form to
the collar, lapels and shoulders of a coat.

=Loop stitch=—see Chain s.

=Loopt yarn=—see Curled y.

=Looscarf=—proprietary name for a linen shirt collar, of the double or
high-banded order, so made that a scarf or tie slips around in it
easily, without the tension characterising the ordinary style of collar.

=Loose-fitting=—by no means tight nor close; free; boxy.

=Loose links=—linkt cuff buttons not rigidly connected, but held
together by means of a fine chain, a large link, or a separable slip
catch.

=Loose skins=—a sort of union outer-suit. See Jepson.

=Lord Chumley=—the cape overcoat popular in this country about 1890,
from the play of that name; still popular abroad as a traveling coat.

=Loretto=—a fine silk material largely used for waistcoats about 1767.

=Lot number=—a stock n. given to goods for identification purposes.

=Louchettes=—goggles permitting vision only directly in front, used for
strabismus.

=Loud=—gaily drest; flashy.

=Louisine=—a fine twilled silk fabric, similar to surah, but softer and
firmer.

=Lounge jacket=—English name for our single-breasted sack coat.

=Lounge suit=—a sack s.

=Lounging robe=—a long, loose, house gown.

=Loup=—a light mask or half mask, usually of silk, worn at masquerades,
etc.

=Louse-trap=—vulgar for a fine-tooth comb.

=Love knot=—see True lovers’ k.

=Love lock=—a long lock of hair curled and tied with ribbons, worn
hanging in front of the shoulder: an early 17th century fashion for men.
See also Ear lock.

=Lovelace=—a dandified libertine with graceful, agreeable manners.

=Low common=—wool classification term. See Wool.

=Low-cuts=—see Low quarters and Oxfords.

=Low middling=—see Cotton classification.

=Low-neckt=—a garment is said to be “low-neckt” or “long-neckt” when the
gorge in front is cut low. (=L.-necked.=)

=Low quarters=—trade term for low-cut shoes, as Oxfords, pumps, etc.

=Low-shouldered=—the extreme opposit of “high-shouldered”.

=Luggage=—British for baggage (qv).

=Lumbermen’s socks=—a knitted s. of extra heavy wool, close and compact,
usually knee length, for wear in boots or with arctics.

=Lunatic fringe=—see Idiot f.

=Lunch bag=—same as Ammunition b.

=Luncheon basket=—a lined, dust-proof wicker b. or hamper fitted with
dishes, cooking utensils, etc., for coaching parties, etc.

=Luster=—a low grade or imitation alpaca cloth, often with wool weft in
place of alpaca.

=Lustering=—a mechanical process of giving to cloth, usually by steam
and pressure, a smooth and glossy surface sufficiently durable to
withstand wear.

=Lustrene=—a thin, twilled cotton fabric, mercerized or finisht in
imitation of silk, and employed as a lining material.

=Lustring=—a soft, plain-woven silk fabric, widely worn from late 17th
to middle of 19th century. See Lutestring.

=Lustro-fiber=—same as art silk—wood pulp.

=Lutestring=—(1) the old-fashioned, glossy silk stuff our ancestors had
their gay clothes made of; (2) also a narrow silk ribbon, without
selvage, used for eye-glass cords by the spectacular.

=Lynx=—a feline mammal whose fur is largely used in making winter
garments.


                                   M

=Macaroni=—an obsolete dude. This word dates from 1770, when a number of
traveled, idle young cads founded the “Macaroni Club” in London, the
name standing for all that was extreme or grotesque in dress; one of
their greatest affectations was a high-pointed peakt roll of craped and
powdered hair, that women also affected, as well as great breastknots of
flowers. The word had considerable vogue in America in Revolutionary
times, and m. waistcoats, m. hats, m. purses, etc., were quite popular;
the term also occurs in our national “Yankee Doodle”.

=Machine buttonhole=—produced by machine in imitation of handmade b. and
distinguisht principally by a uniformity impossible in hand work and
often superior thereto in neatness and strength tho not necessarily so
in wear; also considerably cheaper.

=Machine twist=—a 3 cord, silk thread twisted to the left so that as it
runs thru the machine needle the tension causes the thread to tighten up
and work or sink into the cloth. See also Sewing silk and Buttonhole t.

=Mackinaw=—a sort of extra heavy woolen blanketing, well fulled, woven
in fancy patterns, employed for hunters and lumbermen’s coats, etc.,
also as linings for same.

=Mackinaw flannel=—an extra heavy, all-wool fabric (16 to 24 oz), used
by lumbermen, miners, etc., for overshirts, underwear, etc.; usually
scarlet and navy-blue.

=Mackinaw=—a coarse, pliable white straw used in hats.

=Mackintosh=—a long, loose overcoat of waterproof material, for wear in
stormy weather.

=Macnab Harris=—a hand-loomed tweed made of mill-spun yarn, exhibiting a
uniformity of color not possible with homespun yarn.

=Maco=—trade name for Egyptian cotton—long staple, smooth, strong,
glossy, easily dyed.

=Madder=—a vegetable red dye.

=Made=—general trade term expressiv of superiority, claimed or conceded,
as “that is a made coat”, meaning well—not indifferently—made. Compare
Shop m.

=Madras=—a superior variety of gingham, but of heavier weight and
frequently corded.

=Magellan jacket=—a watch coat with hood, worn by sailors in high
latitudes.

=Magnetic hat=—see Wilsonia magnetic h.

=Magnetic ring=—a r. of magnetized iron, supposed to have virtues in
rheumatism and other such light ailments.

=Mail carrier’s uniform=—see Postman’s u.

=Mail order=—a sale transacted by mail.

=Major=—see Wig.

=Major’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service
u.; (=marine corps=) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress,
Undress, Field dress. Also see variants.

=Major general’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White u.,
Service u.; (=marine corps=) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress,
Undress, Field dress. Also see variants.

=Make-up=—grease paints, powders, gums, patches, bits of hair, etc.,
used by theatrical performers in making up for their characters.

=Make-up box=—a japanned metal box carried by theatrical people for the
purpose of impressing beholders with an appearance of Wall street
affluence.

=Making the lay=—tailoring term for the act of laying out the paper
patterns on the cloth for cutting in the most advantageous manner.

=Malacca=—a species of cane, imported from Sumatra, used for walking
sticks.

=Malo=—a sort of girdle prepared from the inner bark of the tapa tree
(Broussonetia) a foot or more in width and several yards long, worn by
men in Hawaii before civilization swept over that fair land.

=Mamos=—magnificent feather cloaks worn by native kings and chiefs of
the Hawaiian islands.

=Man-milliner=—a designer or seller of female apparel; often used
contemptuously.

=Man o’ war cap=—a c. having a wide, extended flat top on a rim fitting
to the head; the uniform c. for naval and merchant seamen; also popular
for children.

=Manacles=—unfashionable cuffs.

=Mandillion=—a sort of loose jerkin or doublet.

=Manicure=—a bold, young female person of enormous pulchritude who
commits felonious assaults upon your fingernails, and embarrasses you if
you are not used to it.

=Maniple=—an ecclesiastical vestment, similar to a short stole, worn
pendant from the left wrist by priest, deacon and subdeacon at mass.

=Manipulated=—term applied to fabrics which in weaving are mixt with
some inferior substance, such as cotton with wool or silk, shoddy with
wool, etc. Sometimes the adulterants are carded in with the better
fibers, sometimes straight yarns of the baser stuffs are used. See
Cotton cheat and Mercerized.

=Mannheim gold=—a brassy alloy for cheap jewelry, composed of 80 parts
of copper, 20 of zinc, and sometimes with a trace of tin.

=Mantaletta=—a sleeveless garment of silk or woolen stuff, reaching to
the knees, covering the rochet, worn by cardinals, bishops and other
prelates.

=Manteau Armenian=—see Armenian cloak.

=Mantle=—a cloak.

=Manufacturer=—a producer of commodities, who is also sometimes (more or
less erroneously) lookt upon as a dispenser of graft (qv).

=Manufacturers’ sale=—a merchandising subterfuge; a misnomer nine times
out of ten.

=Marabout=—a species of thrown silk. See Throwing.

=Marching shoes=—(=army=) for enlisted men: of russet tanned grain calf
leather, thoroly stuft; worn with service uniform.

=Marching uniform=—see Service u., Dress u., etc.

=Marienbad hat=—see Tyrolean h.

=Marine corps officer’s cape=—of dark blue cloth, cut three-quarters of
a circle and reaching to the tips of the fingers, lined with scarlet
cloth, closed by 4 small buttons in fly, with hooks and eyes at neck,
and with frog and loop as with overcoat; a detachable velvet collar with
which the c. may be worn by itself by all officers when not on duty with
troops under arms.

=Marine corps overcoats=—for major general commandant and all other
officers, a semi-fitting sack o. of dark blue cloth, lined with scarlet
cloth, reaching 9 to 12 inches from the ground, closed with black mohair
frogs and loops of mohair cord four-across, with a long loop and frogs
attacht to fronts of shoulder; vertical pockets; rank indicated as
prescribed; sword worn outside. For non-commissioned officers, drummers
and privates: double-breasted, of sky-blue kersey, shaped to the body,
extending 6 to 8 inches below the knee, 16 inch vent in back,
stand-or-fall collar, 2 rows of 7 marine corps buttons on front, scarlet
flannel lining; a one-piece cape to match. Other details per
specifications. For leader of the band: same as prescribed for a first
lieutenant, with same cape. For second leader, drum-major and musicians:
same as for other enlisted men of the corps, the chevrons of second
leader and drum-major to be on the cuffs.

=Mark down=—an ostensible price-reduction; a triumph of the ready
ingenuity of the advertisement writer.

=Marker=—in ready-to-wear clothes manufacturing a workman who lays the
patterns on the cloth and marks the cloth for the cutters.

=Marking ink=—employed by laundries to spoil one’s linen.

=Marny tweeds=—see Blarney t.

=Marriage ring=—a simple gold band, emblematic of bondage.

=Marseilles=—a heavy, stout-corded or figured bleacht cotton material
similar to pique, used for waistcoats, etc.

=Marsella=—a stout, twill woven linen fabric, usually full bleacht and
finisht without dressing.

=Marten=—a species of sable, the pelts being largely used in the
manufacture of fur garments.

=Mary Ann collar=—British for the highband, folded or double shirt c.

=Mary Walkers=—trousers; derived from Dr. Mary Walker adopting as part
of her dress a modified form of this article of male attire.

=Mascaro=—a preparation used by actors for changing the color of hair,
beard or eye-brows in making up.

=Masher=—a dandified sumpinorother, often incarcerated when discovered;
a Lizzie.

=Mask=—a device of cloth, paper or other material to cover the face or
eyes or to conceal one’s identity and sentiments.

=Mask cap=—a c. for automobile wear, with a covering for the face with
goggles secured therein.

=Masonic uniform=—see Sir Knights u., Commander’s u.

=Masquerade costume=—suit yourself.

=Master’s gown=—usually silk, long closed sleeves, worn with hood.

=Match coat=—a rough sort of c. of fur or coarse woolen cloth worn by
the pilgrim settlers.

=Match safe=—a pocket container for matches, often obscene, of gold,
silver, etc.

=Matelasse=—a backt or double cloth, the face of which is woven with a
pattern having the effect of being wadded or quilted; usually of silk
and worsted with a backing of cotton or wool-and-cotton; employed for
waistcoats, house jackets, etc.

=Matt=—a lusterless or dull surface, as m. kid. Also spelt mat.

=Maud=—a traveling rug or shawl.

=Mauve=—a reddish-purple anilin dye.

=McKay sewed=—in shoemaking meaning soles and uppers sewed together on
the McKay shoe sewing machine.

=Measuring cape=—a device, made of cotton or linen material, shaped to
fit around the neck and to drop over one shoulder, front and back,
reaching about to the waist, appropriately marked with scales of
measurement; the invention of a tailor by name of Beatty, who claims it
yields more accurate results than is possible by square and tape; the
device is also applicable to drafting.

=Measuring stick=—a rule, with one fixt and one movable upright piece,
for measuring the foot for shoes.

=Measuring tape=—a tailor’s t. measure, usually 56 to 60 inches long,
often longer.

=Mechanician’s suit=—any strong, servicable suit, worn by mechanicians
on big motor cars—commonly, sack style, with ample pockets,
reinforcements, etc.

=Medicin ball=—something like a heavy football but with no medicin in
it.

=Medium bound=—same as half-and-half b. Compare Narrow b. and Flat b.

=Meeter=—same as meeting folder.

=Meeting folder=—trade term for folded shirt collars that come close
together or meet at the fold when buttoned. Compare Spaced front.

=Melange=—(1) a French word signifying mixture; (2) woolen fabrics of
mixt yarns.

=Melton=—a stout, compact woolen cloth, thoroly fulled and finisht with
a close, even nap without luster; very similar but superior to kersey
(qv).

=Men’s outfitter=—a name commonly assumed, and not improperly, by
retailers who combine haberdashery, and frequently hats and shoes, with
the clothing business.

=Mending tissue=—same as Rubber t.

=Mercer=—a dealer in cloths or silks.

=Mercerized=—a term applied to cotton fabrics of which the yarn is
chemically treated and the fabric finisht by a combined
chemical-mechanical process described below; also applied to woolen
fabrics containing an admixture of mercerized cotton. See Manipulated
and Cotton cheat.

=Mercerizing=—the process of subjecting cotton yarns or cloth to the
action of caustic soda and other chemicals, under stretching tension,
with various subsequent finishing operations, resulting in threads or
fabrics softer, silkier and stronger than before treatment; named from
John Mercer, an English calico printer, the original discoverer but not
the perfecter of the process.

=Merchant=—one who buys and sells commercial commodities; specifically,
a retailer.

=Merchant tailor=—a clothier who combines tailoring with readymade.
Compare Custom t.

=Merino=—(1) a thin woolen fabric made of the fine wool of the m. sheep,
generally used for women’s dress wear; (2) also a knitted underwear
fabric containing more or less cotton intermixt; (3) hosiery and
underwear of wool-and-cotton.

=Merino=—the wool of a variety of sheep raised principally for their
wool, which is of fine quality, long staple and of unequaled felting
properties. See Wool.

=Merveilleux=—a fine, diagonal-twilled silk fabric with a satiny face,
largely used for linings.

=Mess dress=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn on ordinary social occasions
in the evening, to which officers are invited in their official
capacity, and where hot weather or other circumstances make it
appropriate, also at dinner on board vessels other than those of the
fourth rate, by officers for whom the mess jacket is prescribed, when
the uniform of the day has been white, or, at discretion of commanding
officer, instead of “evening dress B”. Consists of, for all commissioned
officers (except chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and
chief sailmakers) and for midshipmen: mess jacket, white evening dress
waistcoat, undress trousers (white or full dress trousers, may be
prescribed), shoulder marks, white cap, black tie.

=Mess dress=—(=marine corps=) worn by all officers on mess occasions,
and may be worn on social occasions to which officers are invited in
their official capacity, or when evening dress B. is prescribed for
officers of the navy. Consists of mess jacket (blue), evening dress
trousers and waistcoat, shoulder knots, white standing collar, black
silk tie, full dress cap, black shoes (white waistcoat if prescribed);
in summer, white mess jacket, white or evening dress trousers, white
waistcoat, blue or white undress cap, black or white shoes; otherwise
the same.

=Mess jacket=—(=army=) a short j. of dark blue cloth, cut like the body
of an evening dress coat, descending to the hips, slightly curved to a
point behind and in front, 3 regulation buttons, sleeves ornamented same
as full dress coat, with other decorations as adopted by the corps to
which the wearers belong, and as prescribed by regulation.

=Mess jacket=—(=navy=) a short coat of white linen duck or similar
material, cut similar to body of evening dress coat but descending only
to the hips and slightly roached over the hips with a peak behind; 2
buttons on each side below the lapels and worn with two buttons
connected by a ring from the first buttonhole; appropriate shoulder
marks according to regulations. For chaplains: same with white buttons.

=Mess jacket=—(=marine corps=) a round j. of dark blue cloth lined with
scarlet silk to edges, in length reaching to point of the hips at sides
and curving to points in front and rear, 16 small marine corps buttons
on right side, with buttonholes to match on left side, standing collar,
and with trimmings for rank as per regulations; to be worn unbuttoned.
Also a white j. of similar style, for wear, as prescribed. Worn by major
general commandant and all other officers.

=Mess uniform=—(=army=) officers of staff corps and departments, of
artillery, cavalry and infantry are authorized to adopt a mess jacket
distinctiv of their corps, department or regiment, for social evening
occasions; with it are worn a waistcoat of the color of the coat (or
white) and full dress trousers, altho in warm weather or in the tropics,
white trousers may be worn; black shoes.

=Messenger’s suit=—usually a four-button, double-breasted sack s., of
plain cloth, with regular peakt lapel collar, with or without braid
trimming, trousers to match. Or, military blouse with three diverging
rows of buttons closing with hooks and eyes.

=Metric system=—better than ours: look it up.

=Mexican fiber=—Istle (qv).

=Mi-fine=—half f. See Fine.

=Middlesex=—general term for standard uniform cloths made by the
Middlesex Co., Lowell, Mass.

=Middling=—see Cotton classification.

=Middling fair=—see Cotton classification.

=Middy suit=—a s. for small boys, consisting of a sailor blouse and long
trousers with wide mouths. Compare Sailor s.

=Midshipman’s uniform=—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress,
Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress. Also variants.

=Milan=—a fine, pliable white straw for hats.

=Milan braid=—a variety of flat mohair braid used for trimming and
binding.

=Military=—term for garments affecting military uniforms in fit or
detail of finish; also military garments per se.

=Military back=—close-fitting; shaped.

=Military braid=—a name sometimes given to hercules b. and soutache b.

=Military brushes=—twin hair b. of oval shape, without handle, used two
at a time.

=Military cloths=—general term for woolen fabrics intended for uniform
purposes, such as kersey.

=Military coat=—trade name for short sack c. of 1899, having a
close-fitting back.

=Military collar=—a plain, straight standing coat c. without turn over,
of prescribed hights, fastening in front with hooks and eyes.

=Military hair-brushes=—see M. brushes.

=Military overcoat=—see Army o.

=Military uniforms=—see Army u.

=Mill=—(1) a place where fabrics are woven; (2) an occasion where two
gentlemen endeavor to smash the padding out of a peculiar sort of gloves
over each other’s face and solar plexus.

=Mill ends=—trade term referring to short lengths, remnants, seconds,
damaged pieces, etc., that accumulate in mills and are usually sold at a
nominal price.

=Mill finish=—a beautiful appearance given to cloths, fabrics, etc.,
which provokes the question, “How will it look after it is sponged or
laundered”?

=Mill-gang=—that part of a loom-warp made by a rising and falling course
of the threads around old-style warping-mills.

=Mill wrinkles=—see Cockling.

=Milliner=—a shopkeeper to whom much of hubby’s money goes.

=Milling=—the process of fulling or thickening cloth. See an
encyclopedia.

=Millwright frock=—something worn about 1825, but not identified.

=Miner’s coat=—a rubber overcoat of generous size, having reinforced
sleeves, shoulders, etc., and usually elastic inside sleeves or dust
shields.

=Minister’s=—affectionate abbreviation for standard fashion plates
publisht in London by a firm of that name, and subscribed for over here
for the purpose of awing customers into a higher respect for their
tailors.

=Mink=—an amphibious musteline carnivore of the genus Putorious, the
pelt of which is an important article of fur garment manufacture.

=Mirror=—glass with one side so backt or coated as to form a nearly
perfect reflecting surface.

=Misericorde=—a “dagger of mercy” carried by European soldiery of 15th
century for the final dispatch of fallen foes.

=Misfit=—the term is a terror to tailors.

=Misfit shop=—a merchandising lie.

=Mitchell’s=—familiar term for standard American fashion plates publisht
by a concern of that name in New York city, and which, like all other
fashion plates, make a most impressiv show.

=Miter=—a headdress worn in solemn services by bishops and certain
abbots; a tall, tongue-shape cap, terminating in a two-fold point, the
whole richly ornamented. (=Mitre.=)

=Mitten=—an unwelcome gift from a woman.

=Mittens=—a covering or protection for the hands, of leather or knitted
wool, the thumb only being fashioned, the rest of the fingers covered by
a single sack or the larger part of the mitten. (Almost always used
plural).

=Mixing picker=—a machine for disentangling wool fibers and thoroly
mixing them before carding.

=Mixing willey=—same as M. picker.

=Mixture=—trade term for fabrics woven of dyed yarns, the warp and weft
being of different shades, or either or both of twisted yarns of
different colors; any melange weave or effect.

=Moccasin=—a foot covering or shoe, without built-up heels, of buckskin
or other soft leather, worn by American Indians, hunters, and others.

=Moccasin shoe=—a light, pliable shoe of stout leather, without heel,
somewhat resembling a m.

=Mocha=—general term for sheep or goatskin glove leather, of soft,
velvety appearance and very durable quality.

=Moche=—a package of spun silk as received in import.

=Mock gold=—an alloy of copper, zinc and platinum.

=Mock seam=—(glove term) a row or rows of stitching in imitation of a s.

=Mock velvet=—see Mockado.

=Mock welt=—in shoemaking, an imitation of the Goodyear process of sole
sewing. See Welt sole, Goodyear welt, McKay sewed, etc.

=Mockado=—a sort of velvet with a very deep pile, the better grades
being of silk, the cheaper of wool, used in 16th and 17th centuries.
Also called Mock velvet.

=Mode=—the prevailing fashion or custom.

=Mode=—a sort of tan shade; ecru.

=Modelers=—workmen who try garments on human models.

=Models=—persons employed by some clothing manufacturers and upon whom
the various garments are fitted for approval; representing types of the
section where the garments are to be marketed.

=Mohair=—(1) the fine, silky hair of the Angora goat; (2) a glistening,
light-weight, plain-woven fabric of cotton warp and filling of mohair,
enormously durable, used for summer coats, linings, etc.; also twill
woven. See Angora.

=Mohair braid=—a woven b. of mohair, coarser than silk b. of various
widths, used principally for military, society and livery uniforms,
known variously, according to weave, as hercules b., soutache b., etc.

=Mohair button=—a b. made on a mold covered with braided mohair threads,
worn on dress coats, overcoats, waistcoats, etc.

=Mohair corsican=—a light-weight fabric for summer suitings, woven of
Australian wool and fine mohair carded together, with a finish lacking
the usual sheen or luster of mohair, and warranted by the makers not to
cockle, wrinkle or be affected by damp weather. (Proprietary name).

=Mohair serge=—a stout, twill woven lining material of cotton warp and
m. weft.

=Moire=—(1) a wavy or watered effect produced on silks and other fabrics
by means of passage thru suitably engraved rollers with brushlike
attachments for disturbing and shifting the warp threads, the process
embracing dampening, great pressure and ironing; (2) general name for
silk (and other fabrics) so treated; also called Watered (silk).

=Moire antique=—an all-over m. effect. See Moire.

=Moire francaise=—a striped or banded m. effect. See Moire.

=Molded counter=—in shoemaking, a c. made of shoddy or imitation
leather.

=Moleskin=—a heavy, stout, flexible, close twilled cotton cloth, piece
dyed and finisht with a scant nap on the back, used for hunting and
sporting clothes; usually tan or slate-colored. An imitation thereof,
known by the same name, but lighter, and with a printed surface, is used
for laborer’s trousers, etc.

=Moleskins=—colloquial for football clothes.

=Mollie=—reverse of tomboy.

=Mollycoddle=—sissified males, usually distinguishable by the
omnipresent cigaret, also by inflammable neckwear and protesting clothes
generally, and characterised by incurable lassitude, complicated by
chronic ogling of pretty girls.

=Momie=—general term for fabrics characterised by rough, uneven weave
produced by the threads crossing at irregular intervals or by warp and
weft threads of various sizes. (Fr mummy).

=Money-belt=—a device for containing money, worn around the waist under
the clothes, commonly of oiled silk or chamois leather—usually excess
luggage.

=Monk bag=—a small purse which sailors wear strung around the neck,
containing their money and other valuables.

=Monkey-jacket=—a short j. cut in sack form, fitting close to the waist
and flaring out at the bottom. Worn by sailors in cold weather.

=Monmouth cap=—a c. worn about 1600, largely by sailors.

=Monocle=—an eye-glass for one eye; English, y’ know.

=Montagnac=—a variety of chinchilla overcoating (qv), having a surface
composed of small loops, part of which are cut and brusht into a flowing
nap producing, with the uncut part, a rough, shaggy effect. Name from
Montagnac Fils, Sedan, France, the original weavers.

=Montero cap=—a horseman’s knitted or cloth c. with a simple round crown
and a flap around the back and sides that could be worn down for
protection; worn from 1600 until late in 1800. Also called Mountier c.

=Mooding=—cutlery term for the rough shapening of blades at the first
heat.

=Mopusses=—nautical slang for money in general.

=Mordant=—dyeing term for any metallic salt used as a connecting bond
between dye and fabric.

=Morice-dancing dress=—a curious garment of fawn-colored silk, made in
the form of a tunic, with slasht sleeves and trappings of red and green
satin, worn by members of the ancient guild of Glovers at their
entertainments, in which dance they had a remarkable proficiency.
Accompanying the garment were 252 small circular bells, arranged in 21
sets of 12 bells each, upon strips of leather, and fastened on various
parts of the dancer’s body, such sets of bells being perfectly attuned
in regular musical intervals.

=Morion=—a pointed oval iron helmet with a curved rim, bent down over
the ears, worn by French arquebusiers of the 16th century.

=Morning coat=—a single-breasted cutaway frock c., properly of black or
quiet patterned goods, with or without hip pockets.

=Morning livery=—for house footmen, usually plain black tuxedo suit; for
club and hotel waiters, black, blue or green tuxedo coat and trousers,
with fancy vest.

=Morse=—a clasp used to fasten the cope (qv).

=Mortarboard=—a college cap of soft, black material, made to fit the
head like a skull cap, surmounted by a square of cardboard or stiffened
canvas (about 12 × 12 inches), also covered with black cloth and with a
loose silk tassel about 10 inches long attacht to a button placed where
the diagonals of the square would intersect.

=Morts=—in the old Irish glove trade, a name given to skins of unborn
calves, taken from cows that had died. Compare Slinks.

=Moschettos=—garments very similar to pantaloons (qv) continued to the
small of the leg, with a slight spring when the top of the shoe is
reacht, having an opening with a gaiter tongue and closing with buttons,
forming a combination of pantaloons and gaiters; worn early in last
century.

=Moscow=—an overcoating cloth with a heavy nap, similar to Shetland
(qv).

=Mosey=—an under-jacket, usually made of baize or flannel, and worn
instead of an undershirt but over the shirt in cold weather, and as an
outside garment in moderate or warm weather; also called a “wammus”
(qv).

=Mosquito netting=—a square mesh, open-woven, cotton fabric, employed
for bed canopies, tent-opening covers, helmet aprons, etc.

=Moth balls=—aromatic substances used to disguise the odor of goods that
have been carried over from one season to another.

=Mother of pearl=—see Nacre.

=Moths=—pests that make business for the clothier or tailor, or
disaster, according to where they work.

=Motley=—“the only wear” for fools.

=Motor shawl=—a light, woolen wrap or neckpiece for motoring and outdoor
use generally.

=Motorman’s uniform=—usually same as conductor’s u., which see.

=Mouchoir=—handkerchief.

=Moule cloth=—a soft, velvety overcoating of good thickness but of
comparativly light-weight, tho very warm.

=Mountaineer’s boot=—same as hunting b., with an extra outside counter
of sole leather protecting the heel.

=Mountaineer’s coat=—a bifurcated overcoat, usually of rubber or other
waterproof material, buttoning around each leg and closing snugly around
neck and wrists by means of straps or tabs.

=Mountier cap=—see Montero-c.

=Mourning=—symptoms of real or simulated grief.

=Mourning badge=—(=navy=) for officers a crepe band about 3 inches wide
and about 20 inches long, knotted upon the sword hilt, and a crepe band
3 inches wide worn on the left arm above the elbow; (=army=) a knot of
black crepe worn on the saber hilt for a period not exceeding 30 days.

=Mourning band=—a broad b. or brassard of black crepe fastened on the
left arm of a coat, as a makeshift symbol of customary grief. Originally
worn on English army officers’ caps, which, being too low to display
both b. and decorations or insignia, enforced the dropping to the
sleeve; next adopted by coachmen and footmen as recognition of death in
the master’s family; afterward by costermongers because of its cheapness
(and showiness), the cost of new black clothes being a grave
consideration. Finally pickt up by ignorant Americans because of a
fancied “smartness”—like the nouveau riche who invents a coat of arms,
bearing a bend sinister.

=Mourning colors=—black thruout Europe and America, with a tendency to
purple in combination; yellow, Egypt and Burmah; brown, Persia, Ethiopia
and Abyssinia; white, China; blue, China; violet, Turkey.

=Mourning crepe=—see Crepe.

=Mourning handkerchief=—black bordered.

=Mourning jewelry=—usually lockets made of a lock of the hair of the
dear departed, sometimes encircling a portrait or miniature, emblematic
of g-r-i-e-f!

=Mourning periods=—see Appendix.

=Mourning ring=—a finger r. worn in memory of a dead person, who may
have bequeathed it or the money to purchase it; once upon a time en
regle at a funeral and awhile after; often enameled black and bearing
lugubrious moral mottos.

=Moustache curler=—see Curling iron.

=Moustache paste=—a sort of pomade used by actors, in making up, for the
purpose of hiding or flattening their own upper-lip adornments.

=Moustache trainer=—a device for giving a fierce, amiable, freakish,
languid, important or asinine appearance to one’s labial adornment.

=Muckender=—colonial for handkerchief.

=Mozetta=—a short cape covering the shoulders, a part of the state dress
of bishops when not pontificating, worn with the rochet.

=Mud scows=—slang for overshoes.

=Muff=—a cylindrical fur pillow or cushion into which the hands are
thrust to keep them warm, nowadays carried only by women, but once upon
a time men, too, wore them.

=Muffetees=—colonial for wristlets.

=Muffler=—a piece of silk, wool or other material, usually square, used
for warmth and protection of the throat in cold weather.

=Muffler=—a name once given to boxing gloves.

=Mufflet=—proprietary name for a knitted throat band, buttoning in the
back, with a small apron in front covering the coat opening.

=Mufti=—(1) citizen’s dress worn by military or naval officers off duty;
(2) ordinary dress as distinguisht from full dress or dress for state
occasions.

=Mule=—a slipper without heel or heel-counter; a slip-on.

=Mule=—a spinning machine delivering rovings from drawing-rolls to
spindles on a carriage that recedes from the rolls as the threads are
twisted and returns to them as the thread is wound, performing the
operations of drawing, stretching and twisting simultaneously.

=Muleskin=—a leather of obvious derivation used for heavy working gloves
and mittens.

=Mullet=—the rowel of a spur.

=Mungo=—the waste produced in a woolen mill from hardspun or felted
cloth, and which is used in connection with wool, cotton or better
grades of waste in the manufacture of backing yarns or cheap cloth.
Compare Shoddy and Garnetting.

=Murry=—reddish purple; in olden time “a favorit color for the garments
of respectable elderly gentlemen”.

=Mushy=—clerks’ term for loosely rolled bolts of cloth.

=Musician’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Full dress u., Dress u., White u.,
Service u., Fatigue u. Also variants.

=Musk=—a perfume distilled from a secretion found in a sac in the
stomach of the m. deer and other animals; the strongest and most durable
of all perfumes, almost ineradicable when used in the pure state, and
for which negroes have an extraordinary fondness. Musk forms the basis
of many compounded scents.

=Muskrat=—a common marsh animal yielding a valuable fur, used as an
imitation of sealskin and other costly furs; also used by hat
manufacturers.

=Muslin=—a light, commonly plain-woven cotton cloth of various classes
and names, as bleacht, unbleacht, twilled, cambric, longcloth, shirting,
sheeting, silesia, and a number of others; used for shirts, night robes,
etc., and in tailoring as linings and interlinings.

=Mutton chops=—side whiskers shaped like mutton chops, moderately
trimmed.


                                   N

=Nacre=—(1) mother of pearl; (2) an iridescent effect in silk weaving.

=Nail=—2¼ inches.

=Nail=—an emergency fastening when a suspender button gives way.

=Nail clipper=—a mechanical device for putting saw edges on one’s
fingernails.

=Nail file=—an instrument of toilet torture.

=Nail heads=—name for small, rounded, covered buttons used decorativly.

=Nainsook=—a stout, glossy muslin, striped, barred or plain.

=Naked=—in need of clothes (?).

=Name tag=—a leather or metal adjunct to traveling luggage, carrying
name and address of the owner for the information of confidence men.

=Name web=—a strip of cotton webbing with name of manufacturer or dealer
woven therein, as shoe pulls, etc.

=Nankeen=—properly a peculiar fabric of a pale, dull orange color, woven
out of the fibrous tissue which lies between the epidermis and the
sapwood of a tree or shrub which grows in the East Indies and especially
in China. The name is derived from the imperial city of Nankin or from
the tree or shrub which yields the tissue. An imitation is made out of
cotton and colored with aleutta. The genuine nankeen is never more than
18 or 20 inches wide, and is used mostly for light summer trousers,
riding breeches, and children’s clothing.

=Nap=—the projecting and inclined fibers of warp and filling thread on
the surface of flannel, silk-hat material and various cloths, forming a
soft surface, lying smoothly in one direction, particularly if of
uniform length or texture, but feeling rough or bristly if rubbed the
wrong way or against the nap.

=Napa=—light, tough, goatskin glove leather.

=Nape=—the starting point from which the length and the
shoulder-measures are taken for a coat. A vertebral protuberance located
in the back central part of the neck at its junction with the thorax or
trunk.

=Naphtha=—an inflammable petroleum distillate used as a cleansing agent.

=Napier cloth=—a once popular, double-face c. for cloaks and wraps, one
side wool, the other of hair.

=Napoleon leg=—a boot-l. with a “wave” top, high in front, receding
sides and low back.

=Napping machine=—an apparatus for producing a nap on cloth, etc.,
particularly the modern form having fine steel wires rotating on
rollers, to take the place of teasels, thus distinguisht from the older
gigging machine.

=Nappy=—having a nap; shaggy.

=Napt=—having a nap, of course. (=Napped.=)

=Narrow=—trade term for goods not up to stated width. Compare N. goods.

=Narrow-bound=—in tailoring, an edge finish obtained by the use of a
narrow braid applied half-and-half. Compare Medium-b. and Broad-b.

=Narrow falls=—trade name for front fall trousers in which the front
flap or fall begins at about the center of each leg and is made with a
smaller fall-bearer than is required in broadfalls (qv). Also called
Split f.

=Narrow goods=—trade term for fabrics less than 29 inches wide; wider
cloths called broad.

=Nasal filter=—a device having a screen or double screens of fine gauze
or bolting cloth intended for wear when motoring, etc., to exclude dust.

=Natte=—textil term meaning matted or basket-weave, n. fabrics usually
having small checks, in one or more colors, with the effect of being
braided.

=Natural=—trade term for undyed furs.

=Natural shoulders=—not extravagantly padded artificially.

=Nature’s garb=—proscribed.

=Navajo blanket=—a stout, heavy woolen b. primitivly woven by the Navajo
Indians of Arizona and New Mexico, of fantastic color combinations and
so closely woven and compacted that the texture is absolutely
waterproof.

=Naval lace=—a variety of gold braid used for trimming uniforms.

=Naval officer’s cloak=—of dark blue cloth, cut three-quarters of a
circle, of a length reaching to the tips of the fingers, with a rolling
collar and with a frog on the breast.

=Naval officer’s mackintosh=—of black material reaching to 9 or 12
inches of the ground, having a rolling collar, no sleeves, and a cape
reaching to the ends of the fingers; epaulets or shoulder knots as per
regulation.

=Naval overcoat=—for officers: a long double-breasted ulster of dark
blue cloth, buttoning to the neck with deep rolling ulster collar, 7
plain flat black buttons on each front, a deep vertical pocket in each
breast, a belt extending from each side seam, buttoning across the back
(which is cut quite full), a deep vent in the back and another over the
left hip for the sword; a detachable hood, buttoning around the neck,
for cold weather wear; shoulder and sleeve marks as prescribed by
regulations; for chief petty officers, except bandmaster: a
double-breasted ulster of dark blue cloth, reaching to the knees, lined
with dark blue flannel, buttoning to the neck with deep, rolling collar,
5 large black buttons on each side, 2 vertical breast pockets and 2
lower horizontal pockets with flaps; for all other enlisted men, except
bandsmen: the same, but of a length reaching to the tips of the fingers;
for bandsmen: of similar model, but of sky-blue kersey, reaching to 6 or
8 inches below the knee, with a 16 in. back (center) vent, 2 rows of 7
gilt buttons, rolling collar, to which a circular cape, lined with
scarlet flannel, is attacht on specified occasions.

=Naval overshirt=—a shirt worn by all enlisted men, except chief petty
officers, officers’ stewards, officers’ cooks and bandsmen; made of dark
blue flannel, loose in the body, gathered at the waist, having a collar
9 to 10 inches deep and 14 to 18 inches wide beginning at the opening in
the neck (which is 7 inches deep), full sleeves terminating in fitting
wristcuffs, a small pocket in the left breast; collar and cuffs trimmed
with white tape and with sleeve insignia all as prescribed for the
several ratings.

=Naval trousers=—for all enlisted men, excepting chief petty officers
and bandsmen: (1) of dark blue cloth fitting snugly over the hip and
down the thigh to 2 inches above the knee, from which point downward cut
bell shaped and full enough to be pulled up over the thigh; one seam on
each leg on the inside; made with a laced back and front falls; 2
pockets in waistband above the flap, no hip pocket; (2) of bleacht
cotton drill for dress and unbleacht for undress, made with a fly front
and top pockets, otherwise as described for blue trousers.

=Naval uniforms=—for officers, are specially designated (1) special full
dress, (2) full dress, (3) dress, (4) undress A, (5) undress B, (6)
service dress, (7) evening dress A, (8) evening dress B, (9) mess dress,
(10) uniform A, (11) uniform B, (12) uniform C; for enlisted men, are
designated (1) blue dress, (2) blue undress, (3) white dress, (4) white
undress, (5) blue working dress, (6) white working dress, all of which
see.

=Navy twills=—a heavy all-wool shirting flannel, twill woven, usually
dyed navy-blue.

=Near edge=—in drafting, that edge of the pattern nearest the designer.
(Tailoring term.)

=Near-seal=—not very near at that.

=Near-silk=—a mercerized cotton lining fabric having a slight glaze and
high luster, with or without a twill or artificially imparted moire.

=Neat=—tasteful, not tawdry, clean.

=Neat=—see Wool.

=Neats-foot oil=—an o. obtained from the feet of cattle and esteemed
good for keeping shoes in condition.

=Neck=—the stem made by the thread when sewing on buttons; as “the neck
is too short” when too tight, or “the neck is too long” when too loose
or drooping. (Tailoring term.)

=Neck hole=—tailoring term, applied to garments ready for try-on,
meaning the opening to which the collar is not yet sewed on.

=Neck lock=—see Wig.

=Neck point=—the socket bone; a term in tailor’s measurements,
indicating where the collar is to be adjusted to the garment.

=Neck stock=—see Stock.

=Neckband=—that part of a shirt which by going often to the laundry
acquires a hardness, serration and temper prejudicial to the comfort,
peace and happiness of the wearer.

=Neckcloth=—a cravat, scarf or other neckdressing.

=Neckerchief=—a square or oblong piece of silk, linen or cotton, of
suitable pattern, worn as a neckcovering, principally with outing
attire.

=Necktie=—correctly, a long, narrow tie fastened in a bow in front.

=Necktie silks=—see Cravating.

=Necktie sociable=—a vigilance committee’s soiree.

=Neckwear=—trade term for neckdressings of all sorts, particularly
cravats, stocks, ties, etc.

=Needle=—a small, slender pointed steel instrument with an eye for
carrying thread thru fabrics in sewing; of various kinds, known among
tailors as silk-n., thread-n., button-n., basting-n., etc., and these
again are known as sharps, blunts, betweens, etc.

=Needle-board=—a perforated board used to guide the needles in a
Jacquard loom.

=Needle toe=—an extremely sharp pointed once fashionable (?) in shoes.

=Needleman=—a man who sews; a tailor, furrier, etc.

=Neglige=—easy and informal dress.

=Neglige shirt=—a s. with plain or plaited front, but not with a
built-up bosom; usually of fancy materials and most worn in the summer
time.

=Negro cloth=—a cheap, coarse homespun cloth (of tow?), of colonial
days, worn by farm laborers.

=Netherstocks=—stockings.

=Nettle-cloth=—a varnisht thick cotton cloth used for belts, cap visors,
etc., as a substitute for leather.

=Nettle fiber=—see Ramie.

=New-fangled=—anything which people may not yet be used to.

=New mown hay=—a perfume imaginativly supposed to resemble the odor of
fresh cut hay.

=New York surtout=—a fashionable frock overcoat of 1851, having very
short skirts cut straight off (horizontally) and with a prodigious
collar rolling down to the waistline, liberally trimmed with wide fancy
braid.

=Newmarket=—general term for the long, double-breasted frock overcoat
(from Newmarket, Eng., a town celebrated for its racing meets),
originally worn when driving or riding; a surtout.

=N. G.=—slang for “no good”.

=Nid d’abeille=—bee hive effects in weaving.

=Nifty=—excellence of style and appearance; up to the mark.

=Niggerhead=—a cloth with rough knotted or curly surface, resembling
boucle and Astrakhan. See also Petersham.

=Night cap=—a sort of bonnet, of light material, for sleeping in—also
something to help you sleep without one.

=Night drawers=—sleeping garments, made usually with legs and feet,
commonly worn by children.

=Night gown=—in colonial days an undress garment worn at home, but not
for sleeping; often quite elaborate; a dressing g. or jacket; sometimes
worn away from home, as at the office.

=Night rail=—name given in colonial times to what is our present-day
night robe.

=Night robe=—see N. shirt.

=Night shirt=—a long, loose gown for sleeping purposes.

=Night slip=—an infant’s night dress.

=Night stick=—a hardwood club used by policemen in riot work, but more
noticeably for rapping on the corner pavement at night to keep the
neighborhood from too profound slumber.

=Nightie=—sleeping wear.

=Nightingale=—a peculiar, open-sleeved bed jacket, named after the
famous nurse of the Crimean war.

=Nimbus=—the disk or halo which “the old man” thinks encircles his head
refulgently.

=Nitch=—see Notch.

=No collar=—self-explanatory; tailoring term used mostly in connection
with waistcoat.

=No dress=—no allowance to be made; small. See Dress.

=Noils=—knots and short bits of wool taken from the long staple in
combing; waste silk.

=Noose=—a sort of necktie of no great popularity.

=Norfolk jacket=—a sack coat or j., straight front and single-breasted,
with or without a yoke, having box plaits down the fronts and back and a
belt of same material; the adjustment and style of yoke, plaits,
pockets, etc., varies with season, taste of wearer and maker; most worn
for hunting and for outdoor sports.

=Normal=—hosiery and underwear term for natural undyed wool and garments
thereof.

=Normal=—(clothing term.) See Regular.

=Norwegian sock=—a heavy knit wool stocking similar to golf hose; used
by hunters, lumbermen, explorers, et al.

=Nose guard=—a solid rubber face disfigurer that must be chewed.
(Football.)

=Nose mask=—same as N. guard.

=Nose putty=—an article of theatrical makeup.

=Nosegay=—a small bunch of fragrant flowers; broadly, a boutonniere.

=Not balanced=—said of a coat that does not hang or drape well; out of
balance; shifted.

=Not ready=—a phrase that has lost tailors more customers than
readymaders ever gained otherwise.

=Notch=—in garment making, a V or nick cut into the edge of the cut
cloth, showing where it is to be joined to another piece with a
corresponding notch.

=Notch=—(tailoring term.) See Step; also see below.

=Notcht collar=—the typical c. of all single-breasted sack coats and
waistcoats. In body coats and overcoats the collar is separate from the
lapel to which it is joined in such a manner as to leave a notch or
“step”; in waistcoats a notcht c. is usually of one piece on each side
without seam, but with a V notch cut therein. (Notched c.)

=Nouveau riche=—one who has recently become rich and who proceeds to
show off, first of all by adopting flashier and costlier clothes than
could previously be afforded.

=Novelties=—the transient styles of a season; fancies, not staple; the
basis of all reduction sales or clearing sales.

=Nuage=—French for clouded effects (in weaving).

=Nullifier=—a name sometimes given to a sort of slipper better known as
Romeo (qv).

=Nun’s cloth=—see below.

=Nun’s veiling=—a thin, semi-transparent, plain-woven, woolen fabric,
used for mourning bands, office coats, etc.; a complete suit for a man
would average say 32 ounces in weight.

=Nursery cloth=—general name for thick, heavy cotton cloth or
blanketing, used singly or two-ply in a desperate effort to save bedding
from our infant ravages; most commonly a sort of very coarse, heavy,
double-faced Canton flannel, or two sheets of muslin slightly wadded and
quilted, tho there are several other varieties.

=Nutria=—the fur of the Brazilian otter, largely used in hat manufacture
and for fur garments.


                                   O

=Oak tanned=—term for leather tanned with oak bark.

=Ocean pearl=—trade term distinguishing oyster p. (and articles thereof)
from fresh water or mussel and clam shell p. from inland waters.

=Odd Fellow’s coat=—same as Masonic Sir Knight’s c., but with 9 buttons
instead of 11.

=Off color=—trade term for goods not comparing with the standard of
color by which bought. Compare Cloudy and Shaded.

=Office=—where the pay envelope comes from; otherwise useless to the
average employe.

=Office coat=—usually an alpaca sack c., unlined, broadly, any old c.
not fit to be seen on the street, but good enough to wipe pens on.

=Office towel=—an indurated, inelastic piece of textil fabric of dark
color, used for toilet purposes.

=Officer’s facings=—(=army=) color for general officers, staff and
department officers, dark blue; for officers of engineers, scarlet piped
with white; signal corps, orange piped with white; ordnance, black piped
with scarlet; medical corps, maroon; quartermaster’s department, buff;
cavalry, yellow; artillery, scarlet; infantry, light blue.

=Oil-boiled=—trade term for colors so treated as to ensure permanence.

=Oil frock=—a waterproof slicker-coat worn by miners, fishermen, etc.

=Oil grain=—same as stuft leather.

=Oil test=—(linen vs. cotton); a sample of cloth is boiled in water or
alkali solution to remove the finishing matter, then laid on a glass
plate and saturated with a heavy oil. A smaller glass plate is then
placed over the sample to protect it from the air. After removing the
surplus oil from the edges, the sample is examined with the light
falling on it, and then with the light passing thru it. The linen fiber,
owing to its thick cells with their greater resistance to light, appears
transparent and resembles a slop of grease on paper. When the light
passes thru it, it appears bright; and when the light falls upon it, it
is dark. The reverse is the case with cotton. The air in the interior of
the cotton fiber, as well as between the fibers themselves, is not
displaced by the oil, and makes the cotton appear opaque; consequently
when the light falls on the fiber it is bright, and when the light
passes thru it it is dark.

=Oilcloth=—a painted and varnisht cotton fabric, largely employed, among
other uses, for cap visors, belt linings, etc.

=Oiled silk=—a thin, plain-woven silk fabric impregnated with boiled oil
and dried, becoming translucent and waterproof, used for perspiration
guards, money belts, etc.

=Oilers=—vernacular for oilskins (qv).

=Oilskin=—a heavy, cotton cloth impregnated with oil and gum to render
it waterproof; used for sailor’s coats, slickers, etc.; the name is also
applied to such garments.

=Oilskins=—“slickers” (qv). Also see above.

=O. K.=—all right; all correct. The most popular idea of the derivation
is that told of General Jackson, better known in American history as Old
Hickory, who was not much at home in the art of spelling, and that he
employed the letters O. K. as an endorsement of applications for office
and other papers, intending them to stand for “all (orl) correct
(korrect)”.

=Ol clo’s man=—a stoop-shouldered individual in a long frock coat, low
billycock hat, wearing luxuriant whiskers and unclean fingernails.

=Old beau=—a fastidious old fellow of the “old school”, fond of women’s
society.

=Old fashioned=—not of today.

=Old gold=—a dull, brassy, yellow color.

=Old man=—the head of the house who raises or reduces salaries, but who
otherwise is not generally reckoned as having any special value to the
business.

=Old-man’s frock=—a one-button cutaway f. coat, cut rather full in
front.

=Old silver=—s. made to appear old by chemical treatment.

=Old thirds=—an obsolete English system of tailor’s measurements,
invented by a German tailor in the early part of the 19th century.

=Olive=—a barrel-shaped fastening device used in connection with loops;
a portion of a frog (qv); usually mohair or silk covered; worn
principally on uniform overcoats.

=Olivauto cloth=—proprietary name for a clear-finisht worsted, 14 oz.
cloth, made especially with reference to the needs of motorists; is dust
proof and waterproof and of a brownish olive-drab shade.

=Ombre=—weaving term for blended stripes, shading off or into one
another, effected by adjustment of warp and filling threads; usually
applied to silks.

=Omophorion=—a sort of broad pallium (qv) worn by the Greek and Russian
ministry.

=On one’s uppers=—shabby genteel.

=Once-over=—see Ascot, Puff, Waterfall, etc.; a method of tying same.

=One-button cutaway=—see Fat man’s frock.

=One-button sack=—see Fat man’s s.

=One-way plait=—prest flat from either side of the stitching; the
reverse of box p.

=Ongrowing collar=—tailors’ term for waistcoat collars that are
continued around the neck like coat collars instead of being sewed down
at the shoulder and continuing merely as a band around the back of the
neck. O. collars, therefore, are formed of the facing and forepart and
top and undercollar parts and may have any kind of peakt or notcht lapel
or rever, but are seldom made with the no-seam notch characteristic of
ordinary single-breasted waistcoat collars.

=O O=—“own order”; in tailoring, a memorandum made by cutters who
dislike a customer’s insistence upon certain details.

=Ooze=—suede leather.

=Open-face vest=—vernacular for evening dress waistcoat.

=Open fly=—not closed or boxt. See Fly.

=Open front=—a term usually applied to shirt bosoms made in two parts
and joined by buttons or studs.

=Open front fold=—trade term for folded shirt collars where the standing
band is cut away in V shape and the fold rather more so.

=Open lap seam=—same as Open welt s.

=Open shop=—the opposit of closed s. (qv); a s., factory or other
establishment where workmen may be employed regardless of union or other
affiliations.

=Open trousers=—tailors’ term for t. made for customers who stand with
their legs spread apart or open, the inseam being longer than is
required for closed t., which see.

=Open welt seam=—in tailoring, a s. resembling a plait. The two parts of
the material are first sewed regularly, after which one part, which has
been cut wider for the purpose, is basted over to the required size of
the welt and sewed at the place of the first seam. Properly used as a
finish for the side seams of trousers. See Welt s.

=Open-work=—trade term for drop stitch ribs or lace work designs in
hosiery, etc.

=Opening=—tailoring term for the amount of space at throat not covered
by a coat or vest, allowing display of (more or less) clean linen,
betraying one’s taste in neckwear and jewelry, and, according to area,
inviting bronchitis or bellyache. Compare Gorge.

=Opening=—the first step in the process of carding cotton; separating
the matted fibers and removing foreign objects.

=Opening machine=—see Willowing m.

=Opera cloak=—a cape-like overgarment extending to the knees, having a
narrow standing collar, and closed with cord and tassels, worn about
1850 over evening dress; also the Inverness overcoat (qv) is sometimes
so called.

=Opera glass=—a binocular telescope of small size for magnifying the
field of view for distant spectators; also the characteristic equipment
of baldheaded front row first nighters.

=Operator=—trade term for machine workmen employed in clothing factories
in contradistinction to journeymen tailors who do work by hand.

=Operette=—proprietary term for an evening dress overcoat, buttoning
high at the throat, lined with white silk or satin in front and there
combining some of the features of a muffler or dress shirt protector.

=Opoponax=—a perfume compounded from a gum resin obtained from a species
of (Persian) parsnip, or in imitation thereof.

=Orarian=—a sort of stole worn by ministers of the Greek and Russian
churches.

=Orarium=—same as Stole (qv).

=Orby=—a single-breasted walking frock coat made without a waist seam,
the fore and back parts being entire; the back made without the usual
sidebody parts, and having but a center seam terminating in a plain open
vent at the waist. (1907.)

=Ordinary=—see Cotton classification.

=Organzine=—(1) warp silk made of two singles (qv) twisted together;
thrown silk; (2) a fabric made of such silk.

=Orris root=—good thing for the linen chest, imparting to the contents
thereof a delicate violet-like fragrance.

=Orthopedic=—name applied to a particular shape of last, generally
broad-toed, in outline as near as possible to that of the natural foot.

=Osnaburg=—(1) coarse cotton shirtings, both plain colored and in small
two-color checks, only slightly finisht after weaving, mostly produced
in the southern states; (2) originally a coarse variety of linen cloth
imported from Osnabruck, Prussia (whence name); used in colonial days
for shirts, breeches, jackets, etc.

=Ostrich feathers=—in men’s wear used for uniform hats, regalia, etc.

=Otter=—an amphibious animal of various species, yielding a pelt
valuable in the manufacture of fur garments; very like seal in texture.

=Ottoman=—a stout, lustrous silk fabric, of heavier cord than faille.

=Ounce=—in the trade the thickness or heaviness of cloths are designated
by the number of ounces in one yard, as 10 oz., 16 oz., 24 oz., etc.

=Out breast=—tailor’s abbreviation for outside breast pocket.

=Out breast pocket=—see Outside b. p.

=Outside breast pocket=—trade term for the regular b. p. of coats and
overcoats, customarily placed on the left side only, and so designated
to distinguish from inside b. p.

=Outer leaf=—see Leaf.

=Out of date=—old-fashioned; old fogeyish.

=Out seam=—see Prix s.

=Outer garments=—broadly, any and all garments except those worn next
the skin; more correctly a suit of clothes, overcoats, capes, and the
like.

=Outer sole=—the s. leather in the bottom of shoe coming next to the
ground.

=Outre=—not conforming to conventional usage or fashion; bizarre;
extravagant; showy; freakish.

=Outing cloth=—a cotton fabric of various uses, woven similarly to
gingham, but of softer, coarser yarns and well napt on both sides; also
called o. flannel, tennis flannel, flannelette, domett, guinea cloth,
etc.

=Outing flannel=—see O. cloth.

=Outing shoe=—a canvas s. for summer wear.

=Outing suit=—a light-weight summer or vacation suit, usually of
flannel.

=Outlet=—in tailoring, an allowance made in cutting up cloth (not shown
on the paper pattern), for seams, vents, the try-on fitting,
alterations, etc.

=Outside back=—tailoring term for the back or outer lining of the back
part of a vest.

=Outside flap=—a sewed-on f. outside of and over the pocket. Compare
In-and-out f.

=Outside shop=—in clothes making a shop, usually not on the
manufacturer’s premises but away or “outside”, where the help is hired
by the contractor, who is practically owner of the shop, altho he may
contract to do no work for any but the one concern. See Inside s.

=Ovalesque=—proprietary name for a dress shirt bosom of unusually large
proportion and of oval shape, claimed not to bulge or break when worn.

=Over-erect=—so straight (sic) as to incline backward.

=Over-shirt=—an outer or top s.; a working s.

=Over-shoulder measure=—in tailoring, a measure taken from front of arm
scye over the shoulder to center of back at the scye depth (qv).

=Oversleeve=—a loose fitting, separate s. of almost any material, worn
by bookkeepers, clerks, et al., to protect shirt or coat sleeves.

=Overalls=—loose fitting over-trousers of duck, denim, etc., for working
wear.

=Overcasting=—see Serging and Whipstitch.

=Overcheck=—a term in weaving for patterns showing one check of
different form or color superimposed upon another.

=Overcoat=—a coat worn over one’s other coat; a top coat; a greatcoat.

=Overcoating=—any fabric woven specially for overcoats, as covert,
kersey, melton, frieze, montagnac, elysian, beaver, vicuna, whipcord,
cheviot, chinchilla, Shetland, etc., (qv).

=Overedge stitch=—an overcasting or selvaging s. performed by machine.

=Overcoats=—(=army=) see Army officer’s o.; (=navy=), see Naval
officer’s o. and Naval o.; (=revenue service=) see Revenue service o.;
(=marine corps=) see Marine corps o.

=Overgaiter=—a close-fitting covering for ankle and leg, spreading out
and embracing the instep, usually of cloth or leather; also called
spatterdash and spats.

=Overgarment=—any outer garment or wrap.

=Overplaid=—a term in weaving indicating a light plaid over a heavier
and smaller underplaid or check, or vice versa; an effect of color
disposition.

=Oversack=—a large, loosely fitting overcoat of the sack or box variety;
an ulster (qv).

=Overseam=—see Round s.

=Overshoe=—a shoe worn over other shoes, usually of rubber, of various
shapes and styles. See also Arctics.

=Overworked edges=—tailoring term for edges held in too much and forced
by the stay tape.

=Own goods=—cloth brought to a tailor, shirtmaker, etc., to be made up.

=Oxford=—see O. mixture, O. shirting, etc.

=Oxford bag=—an article of hand luggage of considerable capacity,
usually with a rounding or sloping top.

=Oxford cap=—see Mortarboard.

=Oxford mixture=—in woolen cloth weaving an effect produced by combining
two threads of black and white or gray into one yarn in the spinning
process, or by blending two shades of raw wool in the carding process,
the finisht effect being a cloth of black or dark steel ground, lightly
sprinkled or mixt with white. In the lighter shadings frequently called
“Cambridge mixture”.

=Oxford shirting=—a soft, plain-woven cotton fabric having loom-produced
checks, stripes, or figures.

=Oxford tie=—a low shoe, laced and tied at the instep, and by extension
any low shoe, as “buttoned oxfords”.


                                   P

=Pack basket=—a b. of splints or rattan covered with canvas, with
shoulder straps; used by hunters, prospectors, et al.

=Pack cloth=—a rectangular length of waterproof canvas useful to
campers, hunters, et al.

=Pack harness=—an arrangement of leather straps for converting hunters,
prospectors, et al., into beasts of burden.

=Pad=—in tailoring a flat, compact cushion or mattress-shaped implement
laid upon the lap-board or any other pressing-board and used in
“pressing-off” and giving form and finish to a garment. Its elasticity
accommodates it to any inequalities of the garment and therefore the
whole surface is reacht by the pressure of the iron and made smoother
and solider than it could be without its use. See Looney.

=Pad=—see Hat p.

=Pad=—(1) to stuff or build up a garment with wadding; (2) to apparently
increase one’s proportions.

=Padded=—given a false physique.

=Padded dress=—an obscene way of emphasizing the d. of trousers once
current among certain Michigan college boys.

=Paddies=—pantalets.

=Padding=—felt, cotton or wool used for giving shape to garments;
wadding.

=Padding stitches=—(tailoring) similar in appearance to zigzag or
herringbone basting s.; in making, the needle may or may not go entirely
thru one of the pieces of goods, according to the nature of the work in
hand; also the s. may be held together in close rows or loosely spaced;
properly made, these s. aid much in shaping of garments.

=Paddock=—according to the best authorities this is a single-breasted
frock overcoat with sewed-on skirts, tho this form is more popularly
known as the “Paletot” (qv), while the “Paddock” is usually shown as a
coat with skirted back and one-piece front with a waistline cut partly
into same, from which underarm V’s extend and give shapeliness. The two
terms are used interchangeably by most American tailors’ journals.

=Padisway=—an old name for peau de soie.

=Page’s livery=—short, tight-fitting jacket with one or three rows of
buttons, closing at the throat with military collar; trousers without
side or back pockets (tho two large watch or waistband pockets are
permissible), corded or piped at side seams to match trimming, if any,
of coat.

=Paisley=—a town in Scotland famous for its textil manufactures and
especially for a fine class of shawls resembling the finest India
shawls; also a name given to the distinctiv “palm” or figure of such
shawls.

=Pajamarite=—proprietary name for a combination sleeping garment
resembling pajamas but made in one piece, with certain features of the
union suit (undergarment) embodied.

=Pajamas=—loose cotton or silk sleeping drawers or trousers, fastened
around the waist with a draw-string; by extension the term now includes
the loose coat or blouse sold with the foregoing. In the East Indies p.
are worn by both sexes, both as sleeping and lounging wear.

=Paletot=—popularly a single-breasted frock overcoat with skirts sewed
on at the waistline, but according to the best authorities a coat with a
skirted back and a one-piece front into which a waistline is partly cut,
extending therefrom being one or two underarm V’s. Compare “Paddock”.

=Pall=—a large square of cloth thrown over a coffin.

=Pall-bearers=—friends complaisantly wearing crepe for a few hours prior
to finally dumping us into the dirt.

=Pallium=—an ecclesiastical vestment of the Roman Catholic church worn
by the pope, patriarchs and archbishops; it is a band of white woolen
webbing, about 3 inches wide, embroidered with black crosses worn around
the neck, and from which two narrow bands of same material depend, one
falling on the breast and the other over the back.

=Palm=—that part of a glove covering the inside of the hand.

=Panache=—variegated.

=Panama hat=—a h. made from the young, unexpanded leaves of the stemless
screwpine (also called jiji japa) specially treated to remove the soft
part of the leaf, soaked in water until pliable, the hats then being
woven by hand in exceedingly moist atmosphere, the very finest h. often
requiring six months to weave.

=Pancake=—the flat cap worn by tars in the grandoldamerican navy.

=Pancake heel=—a h. of imitation sole leather composed of leather
scivings and cement prest to look like sides of sole leather, called
“pancake”.

=Paneled back=—tailoring term for the inside back of a coat made with
broad facings of the coat material around seams and edges, and filled in
with (panels of) silk or other lining.

=Panjam=—see Punjum.

=Pantalet=—a child’s underdrawer.

=Pantaloon trousers=—the same upward as pantaloons but cut straight to
the instep from the calf downward; substantially the same as our modern
trousers (qv); when finisht with loops or buttons at the side (bottom)
they were called Wellingtons, doubtless from having been first worn by
the military. (Early 1900.)

=Pantaloonery=—a little used trade term for fabrics of which pants or
trousers are made. The proper term is “trouserings”.

=Pantaloons=—close-fitting nethergarments reaching midway between the
calf and the ankle, with an opening therein closing with buttons, worn
with gaiters, boots or over the stockings only, during the early part of
the last century.

=Panties=—familiar term for (1) children’s knee pants; (2) children’s
drawers; and more loosely or jocularly (3) men’s ditto.

=Panting=—cloth suitable for trousers. See Trousering.

=Pantorium=—coined name for pressing and cleaning institutions where it
is pretended to care for your clothes, usually at a rate per month.

=Pants=—“gent’s” trousers.

=Pants block=—see Tailor’s b.

=Pants maker=—a journeyman tailor who makes trousers his specialty.

=Paper cloth=—see Xylolin and Wood yarn.

=Paper collar=—a shirt c. made of paper stamped into a resemblance of
linen, formerly used in enormous quantities (the consumption prior to
1883 being estimated at 70,000,000 annually), but now comparativly
unknown.

=Paper garments=—a recent invention. The idea contains the germ of
untold possibilities.

=Paper sole=—derisiv of thin-soled shoes.

=Paper yarn=—a textil y. made of wood cellulose and more properly known
as wood y. (qv). See Xylolin.

=Para rubber=—wild r. from Brazil and Bolivia; the finest commercial
grade.

=Pappoose frame=—an Indian baby cradle and perambulator.

=Paragon frame=—the metal ribs of an umbrella; a proprietary name for
ribs of U shape.

=Paring-off=—in tailoring the process of paring- or trimming off the
surplus cloth along the margin of a garment, when the edges are to be
finisht raw.

=Paring-shears=—tailor’s s. or scissors made expressly for paring the
edges of garments.

=Park coat=—a sort of cutaway frock c., worn for riding exclusively,
fitting snugly at waist and having extra ample skirts.

=Partridge=—a hard, variously markt, striated wood used for walking
sticks.

=Partridge cord=—a name sometimes given to mottled corduroy resembling
in effect the markings of the partridge.

=Paspol=—in tailoring, a cloth-bound edge or piping employed as a finish
to pockets.

=Passe=—faded; old-fashioned; worn out; behind the times.

=Paste=—formerly used to stiffen coats, but not nowadays.

=Patch=—(1) any ornamental bits of court plaster used on the face as
adjuncts to beauty; (2) a mended place in our clothes with reminiscences
of our youth or as a badge of indigence.

=Patch flap=—a pocket f. laid-on outside.

=Patch pocket=—a p. made of the goods of the garment and patcht or sewed
on to the outside thereof, no cutting thru and no lining being required.
Also called patcht p. See also Bellows p.

=Patchouli=—a strong, peculiar oriental perfume, as offensiv to some as
it is pleasing to others; once of considerable popularity amongst ladies
of definit reputation (which reputation still clings to it), which may
account for its masculin popularity.

=Patcht welt pocket=—a p., the slit or opening of which is cut thru a
patcht-on piece of the garment material, which may be of fancy shape,
generally so made for extra strength, as in conductors’ coats. (=Patched
p.=)

=Patent beaver=—a superior quality of beaver cloth with an especially
hard finish and fulled to a degree making it practically waterproof;
similar to Castor b. (qv).

=Patent leather=—name synonymously applied to all so-called “shiny”
leather; that is, upper leathers that have been treated with a coat of
japanning or varnish on one side, giving the leather a very glossy,
black, smooth finish.

=Patent neckband=—general name for shirt n. having a split or pocketed
division in the back so that the back collar button does not touch the
skin of the wearer because of an interposing layer of cloth.

=Patrolmen’s uniform=—see Police u.

=Patten=—a thick-soled overshoe, or one having a device for raising the
foot out of the wet and mud; a clog; a sort of slipper. Term now in
disuse. See Overshoe.

=Pattern paper=—rough-surfaced drafting p. put up in rolls, used by
cutters; usually black, dark green or blue; also manilla.

=Pauldron=—a detachable piece of plate armor for the protection of the
shoulders.

=Pavilion=—the lower pyramid of a diamond. See Brilliant cutting.

=Pea coat=—a seaman’s jacket. See P. jacket.

=Pea jacket=—a short, heavy coat of thick, closely woven cloth, as pilot
cloth, worn in rough weather; a sailor’s j.

=Peacockery=—ostentatious display of fine clothes; affectation in attire
and manner; distressing vanity.

=Peak=—visor.

=Peakt lapel=—having the notch or step cut at an acute angle.

=Pearl=—the beautiful concretion found in the interior of the shells of
many mollusks, resulting in the deposit of nacreous substances around
some nucleus usually of foreign origin; the p. oyster of the Indian seas
yields the most numerous and finest specimens.

=Peascod bellied=—referring to stuft doublets.

=Peau de soie=—a heavy, close-woven, soft finisht, plain colored silk
fabric having minute weftwise ribs, the better grades finisht alike on
both sides, the cheaper face finisht only.

=Peau d’espagne=—a perfume having the characteristics of the scent of
Spanish leather, whence name.

=Pebble goat=—a shoe leather having a surface grain achieved by means of
machinery.

=Peddler=—a peripatetic merchant; a street hawker.

=Pedometer=—a good thing to prove walking lies by.

=Peeler=—general term for long-stapled cotton grown in the Mississippi
valley.

=Peepiehole=—the little opening in front of a boy’s first pants.

=Peg leg=—wooden.

=Peg-top=—trousers cut wide and full around the hips and narrowing
sharply down to the ankle.

=Pegging jack=—a clamp for holding a shoe while it is being pegged.

=Pegging machine=—a m. for nailing (or pegging) soles to the uppers (of
shoes).

=Pekin=—textil designing term for warpwise alternating stripes of
different colors.

=Pelage=—the coat or covering of a fur mammal.

=Pelerine=—a long, narrow cape (now in disuse).

=Pelisse=—(1) a long outergarment or cloak with openings for the arms,
originally of fur or lined with fur; (2) a dragoon’s jacket with shaggy
lining.

=Pelt=—a skin or hide.

=Peltry=—same thing.

=Pen clothes=—see Prison uniform.

=Pen-knife=—originally a pocket k. intended for the making of
quill-pens.

=Penang lawyer=—a cane with a very large round head, common in Penang
and on the Malay peninsula.

=Pencil curl=—hatter’s term for a brim the edge of which is turned over
upon itself, forming a cable-like edge of about the thickness of a
pencil.

=Pencil pocket=—a small, narrow p. for pencil, fountain pen, etc.;
usually a partition of one of the regular breast pockets of a waistcoat.

=Pencil stripe=—in weaving, fine stripes of color on a contrasting
ground; a hairline or slightly coarser.

=Peplum=—loosely, a short skirt to a jacket.

=Pepper-and-salt=—a textil color effect, as of a dark or light ground,
sprinkled or dotted with light or dark specks, properly achieved by
two-color twisted yarns, usually in combinations of black and white.

=Pepperell=—a slightly twilled muslin.

=Per cent=—the fetich of Israel.

=Percale=—a fine, close, plain-woven cotton fabric, similar to cambric,
woven of smooth, round yarns, carefully drest without gloss and usually
printed in shirting patterns, tho also solid white and also in printed
stripes for garment lining, the fabric being slightly sized in this
case; the lower grades not much better than calico.

=Percaline=—a fine, light-weight cotton lining material.

=Perching=—the process of inspecting woolen fabrics as taken from the
loom and removing knots, burs, and other imperfections preparatory to
fulling; holes, if any, being first darned.

=Perching=—a process in leather manufacture following that of knee
staking, the skins being held in a long vise, the operator adjusting the
crutch of a long circular knife against his armpit and pressing hard
against the flesh side of the skin to remove the last vestige of flesh.

=Perfect fit=—something you might be ashamed to be seen in.

=Perfumery=—formerly used to disguise the odors of the unbathed body—and
still so used, of course.

=Periwig=—a formal wig; not such a bundle of vanity as a peruke.

=Perrin’s=—trade diminutiv for the fine French kid gloves manufactured
by Perrin Freres (lately changed to Perrin et Cie), Paris, of world-wide
fame.

=Persian lamb=—the fur of the young black Persian sheep of Southern
Persia, further enhanced in luster by dyeing; one of the most valuable
and best wearing furs. Compare Astrakhan and Broadtail.

=Perspectiv glass=—Briticism for field g.

=Peruke=—a voluminous and prolix wig.

=Perruquier=—wig maker; barber; hair dresser.

=Peter=—slang for watch, especially a repeating watch, as a jeweler
might say to a customer comparing time, “How’s your peter?”

=Peter pan=—a boy’s blouse or shirt; a vogue of the Buster Brown and
Fauntleroy virulence.

=Petersham=—a kind of heavy woolen cloth for overcoats. It has a rough,
knotty surface, and is sometimes called “niggerhead”. A very heavy,
close-felted variety of this cloth is called “cordington”; the finer,
softer kinds, “chinchilla” (qv).

=Petticoat=—originally an undercoat or waistcoat as worn (1400–1600)
under the longer outer coat.

=Petticoat breeches=—wide, flaring knee b. of colonial sailors.

=Petticoat trousers=—a kind of kilt formerly worn by seamen in general
but latterly principally by fishermen. See Galligaskins.

=Phelonion=—a white or reddish vestment similar to the Latin chasuble
(qv) but reaching only to the waist, worn by lectors and readers in the
Greek and Russian churches.

=Photograph case=—usually a leather, folding, screen-like affair for
holding portraits of actresses.

=Phylactery=—a strip or strips of cowhide parchment inscribed with
passages of Scripture and encased in a black calfskin case having thongs
for binding it on the forehead or around the left arm in memory of the
early history of the Jewish race and of one’s duty to observe the law,
or, also, to serve as an amulet.

=Picayune=—a Spanish coin worth 6¼ cents, current during Civil war
times; later applied to the 5-cent piece.

=Piccadilly=—a fashionable residence street in London, whence many names
for articles of masculin attire.

=Piccadilly collar=—a standing shirt c. with points sharply turned back
forming triangles or wings; also called “white wings” and wing c.

=Piccadilly toe=—a name once given to a sharp-pointed t.—but which, like
most shoe names, is now almost forgotten.

=Pick=—(1) the insertion of a thread of weft; (2) the blow which drives
the shuttle thru the warp threads; (3) the speed per minute of a loom;
(4) the number of threads countable within a definit space.

=Picker=—a machine for opening, cleaning and mixing cotton or wool.

=Pickle=—see Tan liquor.

=Picklock=—see Wool.

Picot—an ornamental loopt edging on ribbons, etc.

=Piece dye=—trade term for cloths dyed after weaving or in the piece, as
serges, clays, broadcloths, unfinisht, etc. Compare Skein dyes.

=Piece goods=—woolens and other textil fabrics sold by the bolt or
piece.

=Piece goods trade=—the jobbing trade. Compare Cutting-up trade and
Selling agent.

=Piecing-out=—in tailoring the act of sewing together added or spliced
pieces which are sometimes necessary in facing garments, or in making
the crotch or back-waist part of trousers, is called “piecing them out”;
also “dog-rabbitting”.

=Piffle=—(1) the customer’s expressions of his needs and desires; (2)
the salesman’s arguments in favor of something else.

=Pig-tail=—the common twisted chewing tobacco.

=Pig-tail wig=—a w. with a long tail worn hanging down or tied up with a
bow. Tempus George II.-III.

=Pigeon-toed=—the toes inclining or pointing inwardly.

=Pigskin=—a stout, coarse-grained leather made of hog’s hide.

=Piker=—the smallest thing living; an ostentatious buyer and heavy
canceller; a short-string merchant; a trifler; a kike.

=Pillow=—slang for catcher’s mitten.

=Pillow-case=—a good thing to hit when ausgespielt.

=Pilot cloth=—a heavy, woolen overcoating c., smooth faced, similar to
kersey or beaver, usually dyed navy blue, and intended for marine wear.

=Pimento=—a peculiar and handsome wood grown in Jamaica, possessing a
grain or texture susceptible of a very high polish; much used for
walking sticks.

=Pin=—a little article having many worthier uses than to bend crookedly
for teacher’s chair.

=Pin check=—in weaving, a name given to minute checks or squares,
effected thru colored yarns, resembling pin heads in size.

=Pin rib=—a very delicate rib or cord.

=Pin seal=—trade term for s. leather (qv) having a very fine, close
grain. Compare Cow s.

=Pin tucks=—plaits about one-sixteenth of an inch wide.

=Pinafore=—the sleeveless aprons we wore to keep our dresses clean, at
table and elsewhere, when we were young.

=Pince nez=—eye-glasses held in place by a spring that clamps the nose.

=Pinch collar=—same as meeting folder.

=Pinchbeck=—4 parts copper, 1 of zinc, looks like gold.

=Pine tree=—trade name for a cloth made of long fleece wool, knitted 108
inches wide and by washing in hot water and soap shrunk to 56 inches
wide; mostly used for outdoor clothing in the North.

=Pine wool=—the decorticated fiber of pine shats, spun into a coarse
yarn and used in a limited way for knitted “health garments” and for
bagging. Also called fir-wool. See also Vegetable flannel and Wood w.

=Pining out=—in hat making the act or process of squeezing the water out
of a hat body with a round stick similar to a kitchen rolling pin.

=Pink=—alleged English for red; used only in connection with hunting
coats (properly scarlet refines).

=Pink=—a color not to be worn by boy babies.

=Pink coat=—imputed English name for red hunting coats.

=Pinkie=—the little finger (colloquial).

=Pinking=—(n) puncht scallops along the edge of a lining or other part
of a garment or article, taking the place of and needing no binding or
other finish; (v) the act or process of punching a scallopt pattern on
the margin of fabrics, leather, etc.

=Pinking iron=—a cutting tool used in scalloping leather, cloth,
etc.—driven by blows of a mallet.

=Pinning blanket=—one of our first acquaintances among clothes; a barrow
coat.

=Pipe=—jewelry trade term for collar buttons, rings, cuff buttons, etc.,
made of hollow metal instead of being cast, forged or drawn solid.

=Pipe case=—a pocket container invented for the presumable purpose of
preventing the odor of a foul pipe from permeating one’s clothes.

=Pipe-clay=—a white clay used in whitening military accoutrements, and
by wearers of white shoes for making a muss around the house.

=Piped-edge=—in tailoring an e. finish obtained by placing a strip of
cloth, usually contra color, between the joined edges so that the extra
strip or piping, which usually encloses a cord for firmness and
prominence, shall slightly project or show beyond the turnback of the e.

=Piped pocket=—made as a jetted p., but with an edge piece of other
contrasting material as velvet, colored cloth, etc.

=Piped seam=—see Corded s.

=Piping=—a covered cord for trimming, applied along edges and seams.

=Pique=—a stout ribbed or welted cotton fabric woven of two sets of warp
(1) “slack”, forming the face, and (2) “tight”, engaging the “slack” in
the ribs or welts, which are filled in with soft weft to swell them.
Also woven in figured patterns, in which case better known as
Marseilles.

=Pique seam=—(glove term) one edge of the join overlapping the other and
stitcht thru and thru, much used for back seams. Also called flat s. and
lap s.

=Pistol pocket=—usually the right hip p. in trousers.

=Pitch=—balance, as, of a coat; hang.

=Pitcher’s toe plate=—see T. plate.

=Pith helmet=—a light h. made from the pith of an Indian tree, first
worn by the English army in Egypt.

=P. K.=—glove trade abbreviation for pique, which see.

=Placket=—an arrangement for closing any open part of a garment by means
of concealed buttons or snaps; a fly (qv).

=Plaid=—colored bars or stripes crossing each other at right angles; a
tartan pattern.

=Plaid=—a traveling rug or shawl, so called from the commonest patterns
being plaids.

=Plaid=—a long piece of Scotch woolen, in clan or tartan colors, worn
over the shoulders and fastened at the belt in such a manner as to form
a kilt (qv); the name applies even if the goods are plain.

=Plaid-back covert=—see Albert cloth.

=Plaiding=—(1) a stout twilled woolen fabric, similar to flannel; (2)
one of the old names for kersey, of a grade used for men’s plaids or
kilts.

=Plain clothes man=—a policeman out of uniform.

=Plain edge=—in tailoring, a finish to the edges of garments showing no
rows of stitching on the outer surface; properly attained by means of a
felling or prick stitch and in manner as described under those terms; a
blind e.

=Plain seam=—tailoring term for goods sewed together, face to face, and
then turned right side out, each side of the s. turned back and prest
flat. Also called regular s.

=Plain weave=—that in which every second warp thread is above the
filling thread, while the alternate threads are below, and the positions
of the warp threads are reversed for the next filling thread; or to say
it differently, one set of threads crossing another series at right
angles, passing over and under each other in regular alternation and
succession.

=Plait=—a flattened sewed fold or gather.

=Plaited bosom=—a shirt b. arranged in one way or box plaits.

=Plaited trousers=—see Cossacks.

=Planter=—a wide brimmed, soft felt hat with a fairly large crown, worn
without dents or creases.

=Plastron=—a sort of shield bosom effect noticed principally on uniform
coats.

=Plastron=—a protecting shield worn by fencers.

=Plastron=—a flat scarf or cravat of white wash goods, worn by coachmen;
also called punjaub and claudent.

=Plated=—jeweler’s term for baser metals electro-plated with gold or
silver; also for cheap jewelry made thereof. Compare Washt, Rolled gold,
Gold filled, Solid gold, etc.

=Plated=—term in knitting for hosiery and underwear woven with an
outer-face of silk on a wool foundation, or silk on cotton, or wool on
cotton, etc.

=Plated=—hatters’ term for hats of which the face or nap is of fur on a
body of wool.

=Pleat=—plait is correct.

=Pleating=—a process in leather manufacture where the skins, after
staining and trimming, are folded flesh to flesh, preparatory to going
to the coloring department for color-finishing. (Plaiting?)

=Plebeskin=—a West Point term for the fatigue jacket.

=Plisse=—a shirred effect produced in weaving.

=Plowing shoe=—broadly, any heavy working s.; usually of brogan or
creole pattern or modifications thereof.

=Plug=—a tall silk or felt hat.

=Plug hat=—same.

=Plume=—a large ornamental feather or bunch of feathers.

=Plume=—to decorate one’s self with fine clothes.

=Plunge dyed=—term for leathers dyed by immersion and consequently of
one color on both sides; used principally in glove trade to distinguish
from leathers dyed only on the surface.

=Plunket=—a coarse, woolen variety of cloth-of-gold of the 12th and 13th
centuries.

=Plush=—general name for fabrics having a longer pile than velvet (qv),
and of silk, cotton or wool.

=Plush=—slang for formal or pretentious livery.

=Ply=—a web, layer or thickness, as two-p. cloth, etc.

=Plymouth buck=—a drab-colored buckskin.

=P. M.=—premium money or bonus given clerks for selling slowmoving
goods—which is why you have to ask twice or oftener for the very newest
thing.

=Pocket=—an opening in a garment to which a sort of bag, forming a
receptacle for various impediments, is attacht. In tailoring there is a
variety of different pockets, named according (1) to location in
garment, (2) construction and (3) manner of finish; as (1) outside
breast p., inside breast p., hip p., side p., top p., skirt p., watch
p., ticket p., etc.; (2 and 3) regular or horizontal p., vertical p.,
welted p., piped p., patch p., bellows p., jetted p., slanting p., flap
p., slash p., raw-edge p., raincoat p., etc., all of which see.

=Pocket=—tailor’s term for a certain contrived fullness in a coat front,
vest, etc., for corpulent customers, as “a pocket for the belly”, as
usually exprest.

=Pocket flap=—a covering for the opening of a pocket. See In-and-out f.,
Outside f., etc. The term “pocket f.” is used mostly in reference to
trousers pockets, coat pocket flaps being usually designated by their
style.

=Pocket flask=—held in various estimation.

=Pocket handkerchief=—see Handkerchief.

=Pocket hat=—see Crusher.

=Pocket hole=—the opening of or for a p.

=Pocket knife=—a k. having one or more blades which fold into the
handle, for carrying in one’s pocket.

=Pocket lid=—a flap—a term little used and only among people
unacquainted with technical terms.

=Pocket pistol=—(1) a handy piece of artillery; (2) a flask.

=Pocketbook=—a small leather book or case for money and papers.

=Pocketing=—trade term for any material used for making pockets, such as
heavy drilling, stout unbleacht muslin, silesia, chamoiscloth, cotton
velvet, etc.

=Point-device=—precise, exact, finical.

=Points=—the embroidered or welted spear heads on the backs of gloves.

=Points=—ties or laces of ribbon or yarn once used instead of buttons or
for ornament, often quite decorativ.

=Poke collar=—a standing shirt c. with slight front opening, the points
of which are forwardly accentuated, and bent softly.

=Poke=—slang for wallet.

=Polar stocking=—see German sock.

=Police belts=—(Chicago): for general superintendent, assistant
superintendent and inspectors: white enamel leather with white silk cord
and tassel; for captains, red; lieutenants, cardinal; sergeants and
patrolmen, black, all with corresponding color silk cord and tassels
(the two latter of blue-black, patrolmen of cotton); with stars, etc.,
per regulation.

=Police caps=—(New York): for chief inspector, borough and district
inspector: a c. of dark blue cloth with welted sides, trimmed with
velvet bands, gold lace and gold chin strap; drooping visor of black
patent leather; for captains, same with bands of lustrous black mohair
braid; for sergeants, same, without the mohair bands; for mounted
roundsmen, same, with blue and yellow bands. Roundsmen and patrolmen
wear helmets of pattern as may be prescribed from time to time.

=Police uniforms=—(Chicago): Dress coat: for general superintendent,
assistant superintendent and inspectors: a double-breasted frock c. of a
dark blue cloth, in length within 1½ inches of knee, buttoning close to
throat with standing collar; collar and cuffs of blue-black velvet; 2
rows of gilt buttons, 8 each breast, groupt in pairs for superintendent
and equidistant for others, 3 buttons on cuffs, 6 buttons in back on
skirt facings and at waist; for captains and lieutenants: the same
except with turnover velvet collar and plain cloth cuffs; for sergeants
and patrolmen: a single-breasted frock c., closing to the neck with 8
buttons, with rolling collar; insignia of rank, service chevrons, etc.,
per regulations. Vest and trousers to match, the latter, for sergeants,
to have a stripe of white soutache braid on outer seams. Overcoat; for
general superintendent and all officers except sergeants: a
double-breasted military sack o., of dark blue cloth, reaching to 10
inches below knee, closed to the throat with black mohair loops and
olives with frogging, deep turned down collar, 2 inside and 2 regular
outside pockets, deep center vent behind; the front and bottom edges,
vent and pockets trimmed with flat black mohair braid; for sergeants and
patrolmen: a double-breasted frock o. of dark blue cloth, in length to 4
inches below the knee, buttoning close to the chin with 2 rows of 9
buttons spaced equally, skirt trimmed with 6 buttons; turnover collar;
flapped shirt pockets; inside breast and watch pockets; insignia per
regulation. Summer uniforms—Coat: for general superintendent, assistant
superintendent and inspectors: a double-breasted sack c. of dark blue
cloth, reaching half way to the knee: turned over collar of blue-black
velvet; cuffs ditto with 3 buttons; 2 rows of 5 buttons on breast
equidistant; 2 outside lower and 2 inside breast pockets; for captains
and lieutenants: the same, except with plain cuffs; for sergeants and
patrolmen: a single-breasted sack c., square cut, length 4 inches below
crotch, closing to neck with 5 buttons, turnover collar, 2 inside
pockets in breast. Vest: for officers above grade of sergeant: white
duck; for sergeants and patrolmen: blue cloth. Trousers to match coat.

=Police uniforms=—(New York) Dress coat: for chief inspector, borough
and district inspectors: a double-breasted frock of dark blue cloth,
reaching 1 inch below the knee; standing collar; pointed velvet cuffs
trimmed with gold lace and 2 small buttons; 2 rows of buttons on breast,
3 in each row, equally spaced; double pointed side edges in the skirt
plaits with a button at each point and 2 buttons at the waist; for
captains and sergeants: the same, except a double row of 8 buttons on
the breast, spaced equally, no velvet cuffs; for roundsmen on foot: a
single-breasted frock c., closing to the neck with 9 buttons, turndown
collar; for mounted roundsmen: a single-breasted sack c., fastened by a
flap with concealed buttons, standing collar; for bicycle roundsmen: a
double-breasted sack c., with 2 rows of 7 buttons, closed to the neck,
with turndown collar; for patrolmen: same as for foot roundsmen, except
without chevrons. Devices, chevrons and insignias of rank as per
regulations. Trousers to match, plain or with braided seams per
regulations; mounted roundsmen wear riding breeches of blue cloth with
black puttee leggins. Overcoat: for chief inspector, borough and
district inspectors: a double-breasted frock c. of dark blue cloth,
reaching 2 inches below knee; rolling collar; buttoned to the throat
with (2 rows) 9 buttons, equidistant; velvet cuffs with 3 buttons;
double pointed side edge to skirt folds, with a button on each point and
2 buttons at waist; for captains and sergeants: the same, except 2 rows
of 8 buttons, no velvet cuffs; for foot and mounted roundsmen and
patrolmen: the same, except 2 rows of 9 buttons; for harbor roundsmen
and patrolmen: a double-breasted sack o., reaching midway to knee,
buttoned to neck with 5 buttons on each breast, rolling collar, 2
outside horizontal pockets. Insignia of rank, service devices, chevrons,
etc., as prescribed. See also Special police u. Summer uniforms—Blouse:
for chief inspector, borough and district inspectors, captains and
sergeants: a double-breasted straight front sack c. of dark blue
flannel, buttoning to the neck, with a standing collar, 5 buttons on
each breast; for foot and harbor roundsmen: same style, but
single-breasted, 4 buttons, with turndown collar; for mounted roundsmen:
same as dress coat except half lined and skeleton back; for bicycle
roundsmen: same as for mounted roundsmen, with appropriate insignia,
etc.; for patrolmen: same as foot roundsmen, without chevrons—all with
insignia, devices, chevrons, etc., as prescribed. Trousers to match.

=Polish cloak=—a c. with double cape; fashionable in 1832.

=Polishing=—a finishing process in leather manufacture.

=Polishing cloth=—a strip of cotton flannel used in shoe factories and
by bootblacks for the finishing luster when polishing shoes.

=Polka dot=—solid round dots or spots of contrasting color.

=Polo breeches=—baggy riding b.

=Polo cap=—a “square” or flat topt c. with plain sides.

=Polo collar=—the double or folded highband linen shirt c.

=Polo leg guards=—see Shin g.

=Polonaise=—a short, loose overcoat, worn early in the 19th century,
usually fur-faced and trimmed.

=Pomade=—a perfumed grease-dressing for the hair.

=Pomander=—a perfumed ball or perfumed powder formerly worn as a charm
or to prevent infection; also a box for carrying such perfume.

=Pomatum=—sticky grease for making spiky whiskers or love locks.

=Pommel slicker=—see Saddle coat.

=Pompadour=—hair brusht straight upward as if scared.

=Pompon=—the colored ball of wool or felt on the front of a shako.

=Poncho=—a cape-like woolen or rubber storm blanket, with opening for
slipping on head, with or without collar.

=Pongee=—a soft, natural color, light-weight, plain-woven, washable silk
fabric, the warp and weft threads being irregular as hand-spun yarns
must be; made from the silk of a wild worm that feeds on oak leaves.

=Pontiac=—a knitted wool material, practically waterproof, oxford gray
in color, made up into camper’s, hunter’s and lumberman’s gloves,
shirts, smocks, etc.

=Pool retting=—decomposition of flax by immersion in pools. See Retting.

=Poole cloth=—a sort of broadcloth with a face resembling tricot or
venetian, named after Poole, a famous London tailor.

=Poor relation=—one who gets our cast-offs.

=Pop-squirt=—a jackanapes; an insignificant puppy.

=Popinjay=—a chattering coxcomb.

=Poplin=—a sort of light-weight ribbed fabric, having properly a silk
warp and a wool filling, tho also made with linen and cotton warp with
silk or wool filling, the rib effect being accomplisht by the use of
heavier weft than warp; almost always plain dyed, and tho used most
largely for women’s wear, is also used for summer coats, garment linings
and also when of silk weft, for neckwear, etc.

=Poral=—proprietary name for a strong, light-weight worsted fabric
combining the appearance of cashmere or merino with the feel and
coolness of alpaca; woven 60 inches wide and 12 to 13 oz. weight.

=Porous plasters=—a tenacious medicated p. perforated with small holes
and which is further riddled with the stinging wit of the patient when
removed.

=Porter=—the individual who leaves dust on the merchandise, desks and
chairs.

=Porter’s livery=—same as Hall-boy’s l. (qv).

=Portmanteau=—a capacious article of hand luggage, forerunner of the
suit case.

=Post=—the stem of a collar button, cuff button, etc.

=Postman’s uniform=—in general, a double-breasted sack suit of gray-blue
cloth, the coat with gilt departmental buttons, and on the sleeves a
star or stripe indicating term of service; trousers with a narrow welt
of black cloth along outer seams; cap to match. In summer, coat and vest
may be dispenst with and carriers may wear a shirt of light blue
chambray, without bosom or plaits, with a white collar; cap of brown
straw. In winter, a long double-breasted overcoat of gray-blue cloth.

=Postal telegraph messenger’s uniform=—see Telegraph m. u.

=Postpaid=—an inducement for buying by mail.

=Pot hat=—a derby.

=Potash test=—see Boiling-out t.

=Potay=—a name given to a peculiar shape of toe “fashionable” some years
ago—transient like most shoe names.

=Pouch=—(1) a bag-like receptacle for money, handkerchief, tobacco and
other personal incommodia; (2) Scotch for pocket.

=Poult de soie=—see Peau de soie.

=Pram pusher=—“English undefiled” for a pushcart merchant, one who
displays his wares on a perambulator-cart.

=Pratt fastener=—a spring wire coil or clutch, attacht to the top edge
of laced shoes to hold the laces without tying.

=Prayer belt=—a sort of sash worn by Turks and other Moslems.

=Prayer cloth=—usually a long strip of scarlet cheesecloth, wrapt ’round
and ’round—the winding and unwinding being accompanied by prayers—a sort
of Mohammedan sartorial rosary.

=Prayer plume=—see P. stick.

=Prayer rug=—a r., often with a pointed device, symbolizing the temple,
on which Mahommedans kneel and prostrate themselves, the “temple” and
the face being turned toward Mecca.

=Prayer stick=—a small wand adorned with feathers, used by Zuni Indians
in their prayers for rain and other incantations.

=Prayer thong=—same as Phylactery.

=Preaching gown=—a loose g. of black silk or woolen stuff, with plain or
plaited closed front and wide flowing sleeves with undersleeves and deep
yoke back; also worn with cassock cincture and with falling band at
throat.

=Precious metals=—gold, silver, platinum.

=Precious stone=—general term for the most valuable of gems, as diamond,
ruby, emerald, sapphire, etc.

=Premium=—a bonus given salesmen for selling old or undesirable
merchandise. Commonly called “P M”.

=Preparing=—in weaving, mohair, alpaca and long staple yarns, instead of
being carded, are combed or “prepared” by being passed thru slowly
revolving rollers and straightening machinery, emerging with the fibers
laid parallel ready for the combing machine.

=President braid=—a trimming b. having short diagonal ribs extending
from side to side of the web.

=Press brush=—a flat b., handled, having a very thick wood back, the
reverse side being used as a paddle or pounder to work the steam in.

=Press iron=—a tailor’s smoothing i.; a goose.

=Press off=—tailoring term for the act of pressing a garment after
making.

=Press rag=—a cloth used, commonly dampened, between iron on garment
while latter is being prest.

=Press stand=—an ironing board or stand for pressing garments.

=Presser=—a workman in clothing factories who presses garments into
proper shape by means of hot irons.

=Pressing=—the finishing operation in garment making—and an attention
that must often be renewed.

=Pressing board=—same as p. stand.

=Price= (=the=)—vernacular for money.

=Price-mark=—hieroglyphic evidence of collusion between seller and his
clerks for the purpose of obtaining any price the customer will stand:
unless prices are marked in plain figures—in which case part of the
salesmen’s occupation is gone.

=Price-ticket=—a cryptographic joker.

=Prick seam=—(glove term) see Prix s.

=Prick stitch=—a tailoring s. used on edges where a stitcht effect is
not desired, and when the material is too heavy for either a back s. or
side s. The needle is passed entirely thru the material at each s., and
returning, repeated from the underside, practically at the same points,
leaving only a slight indentation or prick where the s. is laid.

=Pricking=—a name applied to a particular process in shoe making done by
a machine which stamps the indentations around the top of the welt of a
shoe where the stitches come. Putting these indentations into the welt
is called “pricking up” and is done after the outer sole is stitcht on.

=Pricking-back stitch=—same as prick s. (qv)—the placing of the s. makes
either a back or a side s.; whence name.

=Pricking wheel=—see Tracing w.

=Prickt edge=—a variety of plain or blind e. (qv) hand-finisht with a
prick stitch (qv) showing a perfectly plain, seamless surface; a felled
e. (=Pricked e.=)

=Pride of the West=—a standard brand of shirting muslin.

=Priest cloak=—same as Clerical c.

=Prime=—see Wool.

=Primp=—to be fastidious in making the toilet.

=Prince Albert=—a double-breasted frock coat. See Frock coat.

=Print=—general trade term for printed cotton fabrics, as shirtings,
calicos, etc.

=Printed=—trade term for fabrics in which the pattern is printed, not
woven—usually shirtings, silks, etc., tho satinets for men’s wear are
also printed.

=Prison-made=—term applied to shoes and other articles made in
corrective manual training institutions.

=Prison uniform=—varies with different institutions, but is commonly a
blouse and trousers of heavy cotton drilling in bold black-and-white or
gray stripes, running horizontally in the made-up garments, with cap to
correspond.

=Private stitches=—tailor’s term for preliminary s. made at the
commencement or completion of a felling, stoating, rentering, etc., to
gain a holding before the first or after the last stitch of the real
sewing; these private s. are not of any special kind.

=Private’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service
u., Fatigue u.; (=marine corps=) Full dress, Undress, Field u. Also
variants.

=Privy coat=—a light coat of mail, once worn under the ordinary attire
as a protection.

=Prix=—French for price.

=Prix seam=—(glove term) a join in which the two edges are placed
together flatwise and sewed thru and thru from the sides, leaving an
outwardly extending ridge, mostly used for walking gloves. Also called
Out s.

=Profits=—anything in excess of actual running expenses.

=Proof=—see Cravenette, Waterproof, Coachmen’s p., Raincoating, etc.

=Proportionate figure=—in tailoring anatomies, a figure that is in
perfect proportion; used as a basis for measurements and variations.

=Prospector’s boot=—about the same as hunting b. (qv), but usually knee
high.

=Prunella=—lasting cloth.

=Prussian collar=—a plain, turned down coat c. without revers or lapels,
buttoning close up to the throat. Also called falling c. and turndown c.
Compare Cadet c.

=Pucka=—a word in frequent use among the English in the West Indies
signifying sterling, of good quality, desirable, etc.

=Pucker=—to gather into small folds or wrinkles.

=Puckered=—a wrinkled or cockled condition.

=Pudding cravat=—a great puffy scarf or neckdressing originally invented
by someone to hide a poulticed throat.

=Puff=—(1) a neckdressing made of a De Joinville or an Ascot scarf,
first tied in a broad knot and the ends then crossed over; (2) a
readymade cravat of the same effect.

=Puff-bosom=—a shirt bosom gathered or shirred at upper and lower edges
to create a fulness.

=Pug nose=—see Snub n.

=Puggaree=—(1) a light scarf around a hat to keep off the sun (Pugree);
(2) a turban worn by Hindoos.

=Pull=—see String out.

=Pull-out=—tailor’s term for catching up with one’s work if behind or
“in the drag”.

=Pulled wool=—inferior fleece from sheep that have been slaughtered for
food or that may have died from disease or exposure. Also called “Skin
w.”

=Pulling-over=—see Tacking.

=Pulse warmer=—see Wristlet.

=Pumps=—low shoes for evening dress wear or dancing, of shorter vamp and
lighter than Oxfords (qv), and usually without lacing or other
fastening, but commonly ornamented with a bow.

=Punching bag=—an inflated leather or rubber bag for muscular
development, of which ruptured noses and blackened eyes are a
characteristic betraying the amateur.

=Punching bag gloves=—stout leather g., well padded, wholly or partially
covering the hands or knuckles.

=Punjab=—a plastron or flat cravat usually worn by coachmen.

=Punjum=—a cotton cloth made in Southern India.

=Punk=—a contemptuous adjectival designation given to shoddy and goods
of flimsy character and dishonest construction.

=Pure=—in leather making, bating material, as dog’s or bird’s dung;
bate.

=Pure dye=—silk term indicating that the least amount of dye that will
give a permanent color and finish has been used; not adulterated with
impurities to rot fabric or weight the goods; unfading; fast color;
washable. Compare Weighted.

=Pure dye test=—silk to which a lighted match is applied does not take
fire, but shrivels up with a dull leaden ash or char, if of pure dye.

=Purgatory collar=—a peculiar turned over shirt c. of about 1888,
somewhat Byronic but more freakish.

=Puritan hat=—see Round h.

=Purity suit=—a euphemism of Mark Twain’s applied to suits of white
flannel or cloth.

=Purse=—a bag, pouch or case for carrying money, usually of leather.

=Pusher=—a sort of slipper or inner sock, consisting of a sole and vamp
of soft chamois leather, worn with running and jumping shoes.

=Puttee=—a legging that looks like a surgical bandage.

=Pyjamas=—a favored spelling of pajamas.


                                   Q

=Quadrille=—small even squares or checks.

=Quaker=—a member of a religious sect having strict rules of dress for
both sexes—a case of being particular without being dandified.

=Quarter=—one-fourth of a yard; a unit of measurement for broad goods,
such as cloths, sheeting, blankets, etc., which are generally indicated
by the signs 4–4, 5–4, 6–4, 8–4, 10–4, etc. Compare Double-width.

=Quarter=—that part of a shoe or boot, on either side, from the middle
of the heel to the line of the ankle bone; the back part of shoe-uppers.
See Vamp.

=Quarter blood=—wool classification term. See Wool.

=Quarter lined=—tailoring term for coats partially lined, less so than
half lined and but little more than “skeleton”; usually a short, light
lining extending around the armhole and in a slanting direction to about
half the depth of the forepart, merely covering the interlining.

=Quarter round=—trade term for buttons considerably rounded on the face,
but not quite hemispherical.

=Quarter Scotch=—see Scotch edge.

=Queen’s mourning cloth=—a black-and-white or pepper-and-salt cassimere;
so called from wide usage after death of Queen Victoria.

=Queue=—a pendant braid of hair on the back of the head, either natural
hair or part of a wig; a pigtail.

=Quill=—(1) a fluted or cylindrical fold, as in a ruff or ruffle; (2) a
large, stiff feather.

=Quilling=—an edge finish of narrow plaits or fluting resembling quills.
See above.

=Quilt=—an outer bed covering.

=Quilt=—to stitch together two pieces of material, usually with a third
or padding fabric between them and generally in some set or ornamental
pattern.

=Quilted lining=—a layer of cotton batting faced on one or both sides
with silk, satin or other cloth and sewed together or quilted in fancy
patterns.

=Quilting=—a heavy, firmly-woven, cotton or linen cloth, similar to
matelasse, employed for waistcoats, etc.

=Quirt=—a riding whip with a short wooden or stiff leather handle and a
braided rawhide lash or lashes, about two feet long.


                                   R

=Rabat=—a sort of bosom or dicky for hot weather wear under coat without
waistcoat or collar, usually of silk, either plain or plaited; worn by
Catholic clergymen.

=Rabbit=—lepus cuniculus, lepus sylvaticus, et al., the fur of which is
an important item of hat manufacture and is also used for the cheaper
fur garments.

=Rabbit foot=—used by actors and near-actors to blend grease paints, and
by the superstitious as a fetich or omen of good luck.

=Raccoon=—an American nocturnal procyonoid carnivore of the genus
Procyon, related to the bears and beloved by the negroes, the pelt of
which is largely used in the manufacture of fur garments, overcoat
linings, caps and lap robes.

=Racing cap=—a close-fitting hood or c. for automobiling, skating, etc.

=Racing coat=—same as Kennel c.

=Racing suit=—a leather, cloth or rubber coat and trousers, for
automobile wear, so fashioned as to afford unusual freedom of movement
and by means of straps or elastics at cuffs, neck, etc., to prevent
ingress of wind, rain or dust; the outfit is completed by gauntlets, a
racing hat or cap, and goggles.

=Rag shears=—same as Wool s.

=Rag, tag and bobtail=—(1) a fluttering rag or tatter, as from a
garment; (2) odds and ends of merchandise; (3) ragged or worthless
people.

=Ragged=—needing repairs.

=Raglan=—a loose overcoat, the sleeves of which continue over the
shoulders up to the collar. Named after Lord Raglan, who devised a
similar garment for the protection of his soldiers during the Crimean
war, the idea being to increase their fighting capacity by the greater
freedom of action afforded by the peculiar shoulder. The original coat
also had sleeves with cuffs that could be turned down over the hands for
warmth; gloves being quite unknown.

=Rah-rah=—a name given with little respect to the voyant affectations of
college boys.

=Raider hat=—a sort of “rough rider” or sombrero h. (fr. Dr. Jameson’s
“raiders”?)

=Railroad conductor’s uniform=—varies with different roads; most
commonly a short cutaway frock coat and flapt hip pockets, outside
breast pocket and brass buttons, vest and trousers to match, all of dark
blue cloth; on some roads the conductors wear double-breasted sack
coats, and on others, single-breasted; usually completed with a
semi-military cap with insignia.

=Railroad seam=—tailoring term, same as Cord s. (qv), but stitcht on
each side of the join. See R. stitching.

=Railroad stitching=—in tailoring, a style of edge and seam finishing,
consisting of a double row of stitches near the edge or join and a third
row at a much greater distance—usually ¹⁄₁₆, ¼ ½ welt; so-called from
having originally been a characteristic of r. uniforms.

=Rain clothes=—(=navy=) as worn by all enlisted men, consist of hat,
coat and trousers of black painted waterproof material, as same pattern
as Cape Ann suits. Certain petty officers are allowed to wear a long
coat of similar material and style in lieu of the trousers and short
coat.

=Raincloak=—a waterproof cloak.

=Raincoat=—a mackintosh or waterproof overgarment. See Cravenette.

=Raincoat pocket=—properly, a vertical p. finisht with a welt or fitted
(qv), with an opening thru the lining inside, so that the hands may have
access to the trousers or body coat pockets without unbuttoning the
raincoat; also made regular horizontal style, opening thru, with outside
flaps over the top. See Slasht p.

=Raincoating=—general name for overcoatings made rainproof by any of
various processes, as “Cravenette”, “Cielette”, etc.; generally fine,
close woven, round twilled, bare finisht worsteds, usually plain or with
a pepper-and-salt effect, and sometimes with a patterned-back.

=Rainstick=—slang for umbrella.

=Raised cuff=—a welted effect on a coat sleeve.

=Raised seam=—see Swell s. and Welt s.

=Rake=—in certain German settlements, a comb.

=Rake-off=—graft: know what that is?

=Ramie=—trade term for the fiber of a nettle-like plant growing in
Eastern Asia, of great length, strength, fineness, whiteness and silky
luster, used extensivly for underwear, cordage, draperies, etc. Also
called rhea, Chinese grass, nettle fiber, cambric, etc.

=Ramillies hat=—a 1770 military h., the back flap of which turned up
sharply, and was not only higher than the crown but higher than the two
front flaps, the middle of the front brim being out a bit. See also
Cockt h. and Kevenhuller.

=Ramillies wig=—a w. with a long, gradually diminishing plaited tail
tied with a large bow at the top and a smaller one at bottom, the hair
bushing out over the ears; first worn in 1706 after battle of Ramillies.
Also called R. tail.

=Rand=—an irregular shaped slip of leather inserted into a (shoe) heel
to fill the gap between sole and lifts. Formerly the term was applied to
seams.

=Random yarn=—weaving term for weft yarns wound around with shorter
threads of contrasting color.

=Rapier=—a light, long, narrow sword with a sharp point, adapted for
thrusting rather than cutting; a fencing sword; a dress sword.

=Rappee=—coarse-grained, dark, strong flavored snuff.

=Ratine=—an overcoating cloth similar to chinchilla but of finer curl.

=Rating badge=—(=navy=) specifically a spread eagle above a specialty
mark and a class chevron, differentiated by regulation, worn by all
petty officers of the starboard watch on the right sleeve and of the
port watch on the left sleeve.

=Ratteen=—a general name of 17th and 18th centuries for coarse woolen
cloths. Lighter fabrics were frequently called ratinets.

=Rattinet=—see Ratteen.

=Rattle=—a toy that some grown-ups seem still to need.

=Raveling=—a thread frayed from a fabric.

=Raw-edge=—a finish used principally on overcoats of heavy cloths like
meltons and kerseys, the edges not being turned in, but sewed thru and
thru, then evenly pared or trimmed with knife or shears.

=Raw-edge pocket=—a p. finisht to match the raw edges of garments so
made.

=Raw seam=—(tailoring) the two parts are placed facing one way and
overlapping the required distance and stitcht to correspond with the
stitching of the edge. See R. edges.

=Raw silk=—s. as first reeled into skeins and hanks.

=Rawhide=—(1) untanned drest leather; (2) a whip made of raw cowhide.

=Raye=—French textil term for patterns of delicate stripes or narrow
lines.

=Razor=—consult the colored gentleman who tidies up the office.

=Razor strop=—a flexible strap of leather or leather and canvas for
stropping or sharpening razors and for walloping unruly sons.

=R. D.=—tailor’s term applied to a man who has been imperfectly trained.
See Right dress.

=Readymade=—broadly, any garment or article of apparel ready-to-wear or
use; more particularly applied to clothing, as distinguisht from
tailoring to order.

=Readymader=—a word coined by the writer of this book, to describe a
maker of or dealer in readymade clothing, and used by him in advertising
and pickt up by others, of course.

=Rear admiral’s uniform=—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress,
Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress. Also see variants.

=Rear pockets=—hip p.; skirt p.

=Rebate=—a deduction, drawback, or discount; for expert definitions
consult any railroad, oil company or trust.

=Rebato=—a falling band or collar turned over upon the shoulders.

=Receipt=—the most complacent part of a charge account.

=Recherche=—quite correct and elegant.

=Red gold=—g. alloyed with copper. Compare Green g. and White g.

=Red-herrings=—red side whiskers.

=Red tan=—bark tanned. See Tan.

=Redingote=—a double-breasted outside coat with long, plain skirts; a
French corruption of the English riding coat.

=Reefer=—(1) a short, heavy overcoat or jacket usually of chinchilla,
frieze or other heavy cloth, and double-breasted, commonly worn by
seamen, cattlemen and others exposed to the weather; (2) a boys’ coat of
similar style.

=Reefer=—a muffler.

=Reel silk=—technical term for long silk fibers of all classes.

=Reference sample=—a small swatch of goods for reference purposes,
usually about 3 × 5 inches.

=Refine cloth=—an extra fine dress c. with a nap resembling broadcloth;
used principally for livery; also called Dress refines.

=Refinish=—see below.

=Refinishing=—the process of steaming, ironing, etc., for restoring the
characteristic mill gloss or finish to woolens, worsteds, etc., after
shrinking or sponging.

=Refund=—to (take back goods sold and) give back the money paid.

=Regalia=—the distinctiv parts of attire, decorations and symbols of a
society or order.

=Regimentals=—loosely, all articles of military apparel; properly, corps
or mess uniforms.

=Regular=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit persons of
normal build; standard sizes, from which longs, stouts, slims, etc., are
variations.

=Regular cuffs=—see Round c.

=Regular made=—see Full r.

=Regular pocket=—a horizontal p. such as you will probably find in your
sack coat if it is not a freak garment.

=Regular seam=—see Plain s.

=Regular twist=—yarns twisted to the right. (Woolen trade.) See Reverse
t.

=Regulations=—rules of dress prescribed by army, navy and other bureaus.

=Re-heel=—to put new soles onto footwear, as shoes, hosiery, etc.

=Re-sole=—to put new soles on shoes, boots, etc.; also stockings.

=Reindeer=—(1) a fur, more or less authentic, used in glove making; (2)
leather ditto.

=Reinforced=—strengthened by extra layers, strips, welts, gussets or
other device of cloth or other material for purposes of strength, wear,
etc.

=Rejects=—trade term for goods rejected for imperfections or for not
coming up to standard.

=Remnant=—any odd length or quantity remaining unsold.

=Rentering=—tailor’s term for the process of hiding a seam, the stitches
themselves being hidden. A plain seam is first sewn to give strength;
this is first stretcht open until the sewing is exposed, when a stitch
close to the seam is taken, catching but a trifle of the material on one
part and a similar part on the other side of the seam, the needle coming
out close to the part where it last went in. The seam is next prest out
and while the steam is still in the cloth, the nap along it is prickt
with a needle point and the nap finally brusht into place.

=Repairing=—mending, of course.

=Repellent=—a sort of waterproof cloth of wool, wool-and-cotton or
all-cotton.

=Reserve stock=—merchandise carried in stock-room or warehouse awaiting
transferrence to the selling department. Compare Forward s.

=Resist dyeing=—a process in textil production based on the antipathy of
tannic acid to many common dyestuffs; consisting, briefly, in dyeing
(cotton, silk, worsted and woolen) yarn in the desired colors and then
saturating them in a bath of tannic acid and antimony with an after
treatment of tin crystals; the prepared yarns are then woven, according
to pattern to be produced, in with regular or “gray” yarn, the resulting
fabric being then dyed in the piece, emerging with the prepared yarns
showing up in their original colors, in contrast to the “piece dyed”
yarn. Compare Batik, Discharge printing, Extracted, Tied-and-dried,
Cross dyed, etc.

=Retired officer’s uniform=—(=army=) generally, that of his rank when in
service, but without certain insignia; they may, at their option, wear
the pattern of u. which was prescribed at the time of their retirement,
but cannot combine the earlier with the later; (=navy=) not required to
have any other than service dress, if ordered to duty.

=Retting=—rotting; a process of separating the woody core from the flax
fibers preparatory to the operations of spinning, etc; the three
principal methods being (1) dew retting, (2) pool retting and (3)
retting in running water.

=Returnable=—privilege allowed customers of bringing back purchases for
exchange or refund.

=Revamp=—to furnish a shoe (boot, etc.), with a new vamp or upper; to
mend; to patch up.

=Revenue cutter service cap=—for officers, of dark blue cloth, having a
flat top one-fourth to one-half wider than the base, the sides 2½ to 3
inches high, with a band of lustrous black mohair, and a visor of black
patent leather except for captains, whose caps shall have visors of
cloth decorated with gold soutache, oak leaves and acorns; service
buttons, insignia, etc., per regulations. White caps of same pattern as
blue c. Similar caps for cadets and enlisted men.

=Revenue cutter service overcoat=—for officers, a double-breasted ulster
of smooth dark blue cloth, reaching to 9 to 12 inches from the ground,
and with deep rolling collar, two rows of 7 plain black buttons on each
breast spaced equidistant from knee to throat, belt of same material,
and hood of same material for night wear or foul weather; marks,
insignia and ornamentation as prescribed. For enlisted men, a similar
coat, but reaching only to the knee. For cadets a coat similar to that
for officers.

=Revenue cutter service uniforms=—see Dress, Full dress, Service dress,
Social full dress, et var.

=Rever=—a turned back lapel or cuff.

=Reverse twist=—yarns twisted to the left. (Woolen trade.) See Regular
t.

=Reversible vest=—a waistcoat (vest) made of two fabrics, usually one
dark and one light or one quiet and one fancy, either side of which
could be worn exposed to suit the occasion; worn to a limited extent in
the last ten years of the last century and recently resurrected. See
Vestwo.

=Revolver=—slang terms are numerous: five-shooter and six-shooter, meat
in the pot, blue lightning, peace-maker, Mr. Speaker, black-eyed Susan,
pill box, my unconverted friend, barker, persuader, etc.

=Rhadame=—see Satin r.

=Rhea=—see Ramie.

=Rheumatism ring=—a r. of magnetic iron, or of zinc and copper, supposed
to be a fetich against aches and pains.

=Rhingraves=—breeches worn by French courtiers some centuries ago, made
wholly by loops of ribbon.

=Rib=—a ridge or cord formed in the groundwork of a fabric, emphasized
on the face.

=Riband=—old spelling of ribbon.

=Ribbed=—woven, knitted or markt with ribs, cords or ridges, either
structurally or in finishing.

=Ribbed Norfolk=—name given to a N. jacket (1908) having a continuous
set of plaits around the body from yoke to waist, the yoke or upper part
and skirt or down part being plain. See also “Stroke coat”.

=Ribbon=—a narrow band or selvaged strip of silk or velvet. Imagine men
nowadays wearing ribbons in quantity—yet they did centuries ago!

=Ribbon chopper=—fresh term for a salesman in the r. department of a
retail store.

=Ride=—when your tie crawls over your shirt collar, that’s it.

=Riding breeches=—baggy b. with re-enforced seat, and with cuffs below
the knees reaching often below the calf.

=Riding cloths=—general term for fabrics used for r. breeches, cavalry
uniforms, etc., as covert, whipcord, khaki, olive-drab worsted, serge,
etc.

=Riding coat=—a single-breasted frock c. with short, full skirts.

=Riding cuffs=—leather c. buckling closely around the wrists or over the
coat sleeves; often much ornamented; worn chiefly by plainsmen on
horseback.

=Riding trousers=—plain t., with but little leg shape, strapped beneath
the shoe, and with re-enforced seat.

=Riding whip=—a crop.

=Rigby cloth=—a sort of waterproof c., chemically treated by the “Rigby”
process.

=Right dress=—the wrong way. See Dress.

=Right twill=—weaving term indicating that the direction of the rib (as
of serge, cheviot, etc.) leads from the bottom (goods held lengthwise)
upwardly to the right. See Left t.

=Rimless spectacles=—same as frameless s.

=Ring=—finger frivolity.

=Rip=—a tear.

=Rip=—a pannier or basket for carrying fish.

=Rip pocket=—term occasionally used for jetted p. (qv).

=Rippling=—the process of removing the seeds from flax, preparatory to
the spinning processes.

=Rise=—tailor’s term, meaning, from fork (of trousers) to waistline.

=River shoe=—see Lumbermen’s s.

=Roacht=—curved upwardly. (=Roached.=)

=Roanoke=—a sort of wampum of West Indian shells; currency of early
colonial days.

=Roast beef dress=—English naval slang for full uniform.

=Robe=—a drest Buffalo skin.

=Robe de Calvin=—the Geneva gown (qv).

=Robe de chambre=—a dressing gown or informal morning costume for
sybarites.

=Robe de nuit=—plain night gown.

=Robe maker=—a m. of official and ceremonial robes and accessories.

=Rochet=—a close-fitting vestment of linen, somewhat like a short alb or
a surplice with tight sleeves; worn by bishops, abbots and certain
privileged canons.

=Rocking last=—trade term for shoes built with soles curved or turning
up from the ground. See Flat l.

=Roll collar=—a long c. without peak or notch; a shawl c.

=Rolled gold=—technically, a compound plate having a gold face and a
back, or an interior filling, of baser metal; largely used for cheap
jewelry. Compare G. filled, G. plated, etc.

=Roller towel=—toweling sewed together at the ends and hung upon a
roller, usually found in offices and shops.

=Rolling collar=—(1) soft, not stiffened by haircloth; (2) shawl c.; (3)
a Prussian c.

=Roman gold=—satin finisht. See Etruscan g.

=Roman stripes=—trade term for plain, flat, transverse stripes of
varying widths and bright contrasting colors, occasionally popular in
neckwear silks.

=Rompers=—general term for one-piece overgarments worn by very young
children at play for protection of their better clothes.

=Rondache=—a round, Highland defensiv target or shield (obsolete).

=Roof=—a hat.

=Roof test=—see Exposure t.

=Room=—trade term used by clothing manufacturers, denoting an allowance
or addition to size, particularly across the chest and blades, over
regular patterns, when making up cheap, insubstantial fabrics, such
allowance being made to offset strain and give seemingly better wear to
the garment.

=Rope-stitch=—in tailoring a heavier s. than usual,—stouter silk being
used, the stitches longer and not so tightly drawn; employed mostly on
fancy waistcoats.

=Roquelaure=—“a short abridgment or compendium of a cloak, which is
dedicated to the Duke of Roquelaure”. A cloak without hood.

=Rosary=—a string of beads, for counting a series of prayers, used by
Roman Catholics, Mahommedans, Buddhists, etc.

=Rose cutting=—term for small diamonds (see Chip) having a flat base
with a hemispherical or low pyramidal upper surface covered with small
and generally irregular facets.

=Rose diamond=—a splinter. See above.

=Roseberry cloth=—a light-weight, closely woven, mercerized, waterproof,
lustrous cotton fabric, having a fine round cord weftwise of the goods,
resembling fine repps, employed for summer automobile garments,
raincoats, hunting and fishing capes, etc. A similar cloth, rather
heavier, is known as burberry cloth.

=Rostrum=—facetious for tailor’s block.

=Rotten Row=—a drive in Hyde Park, London: a resort of the fashionable;
from le route de roi (the rout of the king).

=Rotting=—see Retting.

=Rough-and-ready=—(1) hat trade term for coarse straws; (2) any garment
or article of unusually stout and durable construction and quality; (3)
a favorit plug “chewing”.

=Rough leather=—simple undrest l., as that for shoe soles.

=Rough rider=—(1) name freely applied to any article of apparel
possessing a rough-and-ready military appearance; (2) name of a famous
regiment in the Spanish-American war.

=Rough rounding=—the (machine) process of trimming off and accurately
shaping the sole of a shoe.

=Round cuffs=—detachable shirt c. that button over onto their opposit
ends, now being rapidly superseded by link c. (qv).

=Round hat=—(1) the plain h. worn during Cromwell’s dictatorship; also
called Puritan h.; (2) any modern h. resembling or of similar plainness.

=Round seam=—(glove term) the two edges are placed together and sewed
over and over; used only with thin, tough, elastic leathers; also called
over-s. and cable s.

=Round shouldered=—the back rounded or the shoulders stooping.

=Roundabout=—a short, single-breasted cutaway sack coat or jacket
reaching to the waist, worn by boys and young men in the 40’s; later by
sailors, mechanics, etc.

=Rounding=—in hat making, the cutting of brims to the desired pattern.

=Rounding gauge=—a g. for cutting hat brims.

=Rounding jack=—a stand or block on which a hat is held while being
trimmed round.

=Roundsman’s uniform=—see Police u.

=Rove=—a slightly twisted sliver of silk, wool, cotton or other fiber; a
slub.

=Rove=—to join and elongate the slivers of wool, silk or fiber in
carding; to draw into thread; to ravel.

=Roving=—the operation of giving the first twist to thread by machinery.
See Drawing.

=Roving frame=—a slubbing machine.

=Roving machine=—a machine for winding rovings onto bobbins.

=Rowel=—the wheel of a spur (qv).

=Rowing shirt=—a low-necked s. with very large, deep armholes.

=Royal bird=—see Wig.

=Royale=—a style of chin whisker, same as Imperial (qv).

=Rub stick=—a shoemaker’s tool for finishing the bottoms of soles.

=Rubber apron=—a sort of apron worn by icemen, carriage washers,
dairymen, etc.

=Rubber cloth=—(1) usually cotton sheeting or drilling with a coating of
rubber on one side; used for mackintoshes and sometimes for interlining
ulsters; (2) a heavy cotton fabric coated on one side with a composition
of rubber, usually stampt in imitation of various leathers and employed
in cheap hand luggage, carriage tops, etc.

=Rubber heels=—lifts attacht to shoe heels for ease in walking; also
called sneakers.

=Rubber tissue=—a thin, gummy substance used to save cost of sewing; it
unites cloth on being heated and is most used for trousers hems.

=Rubbering=—the man who is looking thru this book for something shocking
that isn’t here.

=Rubberized=—trade term for waterproof fabrics having one side of silk
or other textil fabric and the other of rubber; also for double-faced
fabrics with a center of rubber.

=Rubbers=—see Overshoes.

=Rubbing gloves=—see Bath mittens—quite similar.

=Rubbing strap=—a long, narrow band of knitted wool, terry toweling,
etc., for use in the bath—it reaches the back. Also called Bath s.

=Ruck sack=—a form of pack used by mountain climbers in the Alps and
elsewhere.

=Rucked=—wrinkled, crumpled. (=Ruckt= preferable.)

=Ruff=—a plaited, crimpt or fluted collar or frill, especially a very
broad, full and stiffly starcht one.

=Ruffles=—we wore them once on shirt-fronts, at our wrists, and
elsewhere—and we might do worse today.

=Rug=—a heavy shawl carried by travelers as protection against cold.

=Rugby toe=—one of the numerous shoemaking terms for a medium narrow t.

=Rumchunder=—an India silk stuff.

=Rummage sale=—a bargain sale of truck and odds and ends.

=Rumple=—to wrinkle or muss.

=Run=—a slipt thread or threads in underwear, hosiery, gloves or other
article of similar fabric, resulting in a progressiv widening and
lengthening of the damage or “run”.

=Runner=—a name applied to a certain kind of calf upper leathers, a
runner being a grown-up calf or heifer; the term calfskin being applied
to a skin that would not measure over fourteen square feet—while a
runner might measure three or four feet more.

=Running pants=—shapeless, light cotton things not reaching to the
knees.

=Running shoes=—low, soft leather s. with light turned sole, with or
without cleats.

=Running stitch=—a tailoring s. made in a straight line, one in front of
another, of various lengths and distances apart, but averaging about ¼
inch each in length; used mostly for basting sleeve linings for try-on.

=Rush order=—to be gotten out ahead of the usual course.

=Russet=—coarse, peasant-loomed cloth used in homemade garments,
originally of reddish brown color, tho name clings to variations.

=Russia leather=—a fine quality of calf l. tanned in willow bark, dyed
in cochineal and sandalwood, finisht with stannic chlorid and drest with
birch-bark oil, having a brownish red color, a fragrant odor and the
properties of resisting insects, moisture, etc.

=Russian braid=—soutache (qv).

=Russian collar=—a variety of Prussian c. (qv) applied to ulsters,
etc.—standing higher, turned down, and meeting in front; also called
Cadet c.

=Russian duck=—a fine quality of white linen canvas, used for
hot-weather garments.

=Russian marmot=—a fur used mostly for coat linings.

=Russian overcoat=—same as cadet o.

=Russian sable=—an animal of the weazel family, living in the extreme
north of Russia, highly prized for its rich brown fur. See Sable.

=Russian turban=—a cap with a high round crown and a double band forming
the sides.

=Russian vest=—a double-breasted waistcoat, buttoning close up to the
neck, worn in cold weather.

=Rusty=—said of black which is faded or shows signs of fading.

=Ryder=—cant for cloak.


                                   S

=Saber=—a heavy sword with one cutting edge and a thick back.

=Saber belt=—(=army=) a waist b. with detachable slings, to be worn
outside the full dress coat, by all officers except chaplains. For
general officers, except brigadier generals, of red russia leather with
gold embroidery and russia leather slings; for brigadier generals, of
black webbing with russia leather slings; for all field officers, of
black enameled leather with a stripe of gold lace; for officers of the
staff corps and departments, except engineers, below rank of field
officer, of black enameled leather with four stripes of black-and-gold;
for officers of cavalry, artillery and infantry, of black enameled
leather with four stripes of gold wire lace interwoven with silk of the
color of the arm of the service; for officers of engineers, same as for
officers of artillery.

=Saber knot=—(=army=) for full dress and dress occasions of heavy gold
cord with acorn ends, for general officers; and of gold and black mixt
for all other officers, except chaplains; on other occasions, of plaited
russet leather; all according to regulation pattern.

=Sable=—an animal related to and not unlike the marten, yielding a dark
fur highly prized for winter garments.

=Sabot=—a rude shoe made of wood, worn by peasants in France and
elsewhere.

=Sabretache=—a leather pocket hung from the left side of the sword belt;
a popinjay military ornament.

=Sack cloth=—a coarse obsolete material doubtless worn for ostentatious
penitence.

=Sack coat=—properly a plain, short c., without skirts, either single or
double-breasted, made up of two foreparts and a single or divided back
part, and with two or more pockets with in-and-out flaps, tho other
varieties of pockets are also employed (as welt, patch, etc.). Also
called lounge c. The Norfolk jacket is a variety of sack c., and the
Chesterfield overcoat is a true sack c., tho long.

=Sack-frock cutaway=—a 1908 frock coat resembling a walking frock
without a frock waist seam, but having a sidebody seam from a cut
waistline to the shoulder.

=Sack raglan=—see Raglan.

=Sacque=—an infant’s undershirt.

=Sad-color=—brown or browny.

=Saddle=—a padded or cushioned seat put upon a horse’s back out of mercy
for the beast.

=Saddle coat=—a waterproof c. so contrived as to cover wearer, and
saddle pommel and cantle; a “pommel slicker”.

=Saddle-piece=—a re-enforcement of the seat and legs of riding breeches,
usually of same material, or, occasionally, of leather.

=Saddle seam=—a s. sewn as saddlers sew leather, with edges turned
outwardly.

=Sadra=—the sacred surplice worn by Parsees of both sexes from the age
of seven; emblematic of the coat of mail worn in ancient times by the
Guebers to ward off the attacks of the evil spirit Ahriman.

=Safety-pin=—our first acquaintance with hardware.

=Safety razor=—a scraping apparatus for the timid and thin-skinned.

=Sag=—to lose shape, give way, bag, pull, etc.

=Sagathy=—an obsolete woolen stuff famed for durability.

=Sahara buck=—African deerskin glove leather.

=Sail cloth=—a sort of canvas once popular for stiffening the fronts of
coats.

=Sailmaker’s palm=—a variety of mitten or glove used by sailmakers and
others in sewing canvas and heavy fabrics; commonly a band of sole
leather, fitting around the broad part of the hand, with a thumb-stall,
and having a metal thimble attacht to the inner side or palm.

=Sailor collar=—a c. narrow at the front of the neck, reaching back in
straight lines over the shoulders and cut straight across at right
angles about half way of the shoulder blades, usually as part of a
blouse worn by sailors and children; name also given to a detachable
linen c. (or of other material) of similar shape, worn by children.

=Sailor knot=—said of a cravat tied as a four-in-hand, but with the k.
drawn tight.

=Sailor suit=—a s. for small boys, consisting of a sailor blouse and
knee pants. Compare Middy s.

=Sailor’s blouse=—see Naval overshirt.

=Sailor’s trousers=—similar to ordinary t., except that they are made
with front falls (qv) and made to bell or flare out at the bottoms;
usually with laced back. Also called gun-mouthed t.

=St. Crispin=—patron saint of shoemakers.

=St. Kilda=—a variety of Scotch tweed (from a town of that name).

=Sakcorb studs=—see Boot s.

=Sakkos=—a tight-fitting garment, symbolizing the seamless robe of
Christ, worn by Greek metropolitans and Russian bishops.

=Saleslady=—cause of agitation or awe to a masculin customer.

=Salesman=—an individual deserving of a scientific commission to study
his peculiarities.

=Sallet=—a variety of helmet.

=Saltaire=—a manufacturing town in England, founded by Sir Titus Salt, a
celebrated cloth factor and the discoverer of alpaca.

=Sample=—a tiny bit of cloth seldom of sufficient size to show a
complete pattern; a specimen of any article or material.

=Sample book=—a b. containing numbered swatches of cloths, often with
fashion plates, and frequently platitudinous eulogistic rhodomontades.

=Sample trunk=—the drummer’s excess baggage.

=Sanatory=—the Dr. Jaeger spelling of sanitary. See Sanitary wool.

=Sandal=—(1) a kind of shoe, consisting usually of a sole only, of
leather or other material, but sometimes with a shield for the heel and
a cap for the toes, held to the foot by thongs, cords, etc.; (2) a
light, fancy slipper; (3) a light, low-cut rubber overshoe.

=Sandalwood=—a peculiarly sensuous, aromatic, oriental perfume distilled
from the essential oil of santal (which has also certain pronounced
medicinal properties).

=Sandbag=—used by footpads for love taps and lucre.

=Sandown=—a frock overcoat; a sort of Newmarket (qv).

=Sandpapering=—in shoe making, the act or operation of “scouring” or
sandpapering the bottoms of shoes by means of a roll covered with
sandpaper which is rapidly revolved by power, scouring off the surface
of the outer sole as one of the preliminary operations for final
finishing of the bottom of a shoe.

=Sandwich brim=—trade term for straw hats having brims of two or more
kinds of braid or with an inlay or edging of different color.

=Sanitary wool=—a profit-making name for natural w. undergarments.

=Sans culotte=—literally, a man without breeches; particularly, an
anarchist or demagog; loosely, a tatterdemalian.

=Saranac=—general term for buckskin and other leather gloves, tanned
grain on, and having a yellow color.

=Sarcanet=—a fine, thin silk fabric, woven by the Saracens originally
and much esteemed during the fifteenth to seventeenth centuries for its
richness; probably dates to 13th century; more recently used for
linings.

=Sarong=—(1) a primitiv garment, consisting of a plain piece of cotton
cloth wrapt around the hips and upper legs, worn by natives of the
Indian archipelago and elsewhere; (2) the printed cotton cloth sold
therefor.

=Sarsenet=—see Sarcanet.

=Sartor=—a patcher, hence a tailor.

=Sartor resartus=—the patcher patcht.

=Sartorial=—pertaining to a tailor or the patching art.

=Sartorial solecism=—(1) the wearing of any garment out of its proper
place, at the wrong time or in an incorrect manner, as evening dress in
the day time, colored linen with formal attire, etc.; (2) any violation
of good form in matters of dress; (3) any exhibition of bad taste or
lack of acquaintance with dress usages; (4) any ostentatious display or
vulgarity in manner, form or usage, as freak garments, an unconventional
manner of wearing a garment, etc., (5) deficient in dignity.

=Sash=—(1) an ornamental band, scarf, strip or belt worn around the
waist or over the shoulder, as part of the costume and by military
officers and others as badges of distinction; (2) in Oriental countries
a long band of fine material wound about the head to form a turban.

=Sash=—(=army=) a long strip of silk trimmed with gold fringe, buff
colored for general officers above the grade of brigadier generals, and
by them worn across the body from right shoulder to the left side; of
same for brigadier generals, and by them worn around the waist tied in a
double bow; for chief of artillery, of scarlet silk, tied around the
waist.

=Sashoon=—a soft leather pad placed about the leg inside of a boot to
protect the limb or aid the fit of the boot.

=Sassiety=—a sassy bunch of upstarts.

=Satchel=—a light handbag for small luggage; a schoolboy’s book bag.

=Sateen=—a fine thread, coarse twilled cotton cloth, of soft texture and
glossy finish; used for linings, night shirts, pajamas, etc.; the
heavier qualities used for corsets, shoe linings, etc.

=Satin=—a silk fabric of a thick, close texture, with a smooth, glossy
surface and dull back, produced by a method of weaving that reduces the
number of crossings of filling and warp, the glossy face being obtained
by finishing between hot rollers; also made with a cotton back.

=Satin buttonhole=—made as described under buttonhole making but using a
fine silk twist and making close, even stitches; also known as flat b.
Contrast Gimp b.

=Satin damask=—a s. with a rich flower or arabesque pattern, sometimes
raised in velvet pile.

=Satin de chine=—a fine, soft silk fabric used for linings, etc.

=Satin de Lyon=—s. with a croise or ribbed back.

=Satin delaine=—a thin, glossy satin wove woolen cloth.

=Satin duchesse=—a fine quality of s. of high luster and soft texture,
technically exprest as “8 leaf twill”—better see encyclopedia.

=Satin foulard=—foulard s. with a lustrous satiny face. See Foulard.

=Satin merveilleux=—a fine twilled, plain dyed s. used for linings,
women’s wear, etc. See Merveilleux.

=Satin rhadame=—an all-silk or silk and cotton lining and dress fabric,
plain dyed, the face crost or broken by fine twilled lines extending
diagonally across the web; similar to surah but of stouter texture and
more luster. See Rhadame.

=Satin stitch=—a s. in embroidery, either flat or raised, repeated in
parallel lines, producing a satiny appearance; used also in fine,
handmade buttonholes.

=Satin surah=—a variety of s. lining silk with a very smooth lustrous
face. See Surah.

=Satin Turk=—a soft finisht, s. face, twilled back silk material, used
for waistcoats, linings, shoe tops, etc. Also called Turk’s s.

=Satin weave=—a smooth, glossy effect achieved by floating the filling
(or warp) threads on the face of the fabric, afterward slightly gigging,
milling and finishing the face to effect a compact, lustrous fabric.

=Satine=—see Sateen.

=Satinet=—an inferior variety of cloth, woven, usually, of cotton warp
and shoddy weft (which is mixt with enough long wool to enable it to be
spun and woven in a way to bring the filling to the surface of the
cloth), in manner known as 4-end twill, resulting in a close satiny
surface; after weaving the cloth is fulled and often flockt to increase
density and weight, next sheared and prest, and finally printed in
checks, stripes, plaids, etc., in imitation of cassimere.

=Satinisco=—satin of a cheap quality.

=Satiny=—resembling satin.

=Satteen=—incorrect. See Sateen.

=Saw edges=—an ornamental finish given to collars, cuffs, etc., by the
best laundry in town.

=Sawed-off pants=—slang for knee breeches.

=Saxony=—(1) a sort of tweed or fine cheviot, really or allegedly of
fine Saxony wool; (2) a long-napt, velour finisht cassimere or other
soft finisht woolen fabric.

=Say=—a light-weight, woolen fabric, similar to serge, used in Europe
from 11th to 18th centuries, for men’s wear, afterward employed in this
country until the fore half of the 19th century as a lining material,
and for shirts, aprons, etc.

=Scads=—a generic name for money in the West.

=Scallop=—a 17th century collar or neckband with scallopt edges.

=Scallopt=—having a series of semi-circular projections or curves along
an edge, for ornamental or other purposes. =(Scalloped.)=

=Scamped=—made or finisht in a dishonest or indifferent and careless
manner. (=Scampt= preferable.)

=Scarf=—a cravat.

=Scarf fastener=—a device, of gold or other metal, often ornamental, for
securing a cravat against slipping or loosening, attaching to the shirt
bosom that the scarf may not ride up on one’s collar.

=Scarf pin=—an ornamental p., of gold, silver, etc., for wear with
four-in-hand and ascot cravats, often expensivly set with jewels.
Commendable if used for fastening a cravat; condemnable if used for
ostentation.

=Scarf retainer=—see S. fastener.

=Scarf-ring=—a flattened r., in one piece, or with a hinged pin, or
hinged and with a spike on the inner side of the back part, thru which a
scarf (as the De Joinville [qv] is drawn).

=Scarfings=—see Cravatings.

=Schappe=—general term for materials made of spun silk in the gum, i.
e., the damaged cocoons and waste products from reeling.

=Schmaschen=—leather for gloves made from the skins of still-born kids
and lambs; more freely, any inferior glove leather.

=School bag=—ever hide one to play hooky?

=School suit=—trade term for boys’ suits of stout fabrics and stout
construction to withstand as much grief as possible, and also
sufficiently low-price as not to be a matter of remorse when the
inevitable tears and smudgings come.

=Schooner pants=—trousers made with spring or flaring bottoms, after
sailor fashion.

=Scimitar=—a deeply curved, one-edged sword of Oriental countries.

=Scotch edge=—term used to designate the degree to which the outer sole
of a shoe is extended beyond the upper sole where it joins the outer
sole. “Full Scotch” designates a very wide extension, and in varying
degree. Half s., quarter s., close e. describing the narrower degrees of
extension.

=Scotch finish=—the close sheared or melton finish given to certain
heavy woolen cloths; a result of gigging or napping woolen goods in
imitation of melton. Compare Bareface f., Velvet f., Dress faced.

=Scotch knit=—used mostly in connection with woolen mittens or gloves
knit, by hand or machine, in Scotch patterns or color effects.

=Scotch mixtures=—hard to describe; if you don’t know ask a woolen house
for samples.

=Scotch tweed=—the official definition proposed by the South of Scotland
Chamber of Commerce is “an all-wool cloth made in Scotland from wool
spun in Scotland”, to distinguish from similar goods made, either wholly
or in part, elsewhere.

=Scoured wool=—term applied to tub-washt wool fleece thoroly cleansed
with warm water and soap and rinsed in cold water; ready for
manufacture.

=Scouring=—a washing operation by which the grease and dirt is removed
from the fleece. See above.

=Scouring=—see Sandpapering. This (shoemaking) term also applies to
finishing the heels, the surfaces of which are sandpapered or scoured
before final operations are completed.

=Scouring ball=—soap mixt with various detergents as oxgall, fullers’
earth, infusolial silica, etc., for removing grease, etc., from cloths.

=Scout’s uniform=—(=army=) same as for enlisted men of the corresponding
arm of the service with distinguishing insignia.

=Scraper=—an implement of metal, stone, bone or other material used in
dressing hides.

=Scrappers=—see Barefoot sandals.

=Scratch=—see Wig.

=Scrim=—a thin, plain, open-woven material used largely as an
interlining; a sort of cheesecloth.

=Scuff=—in New England, a light shoe or slipper.

=Scuffed=—said of leather abraded by rough usage. (=Scuft.=)

=Scutching=—in linen manufacturing the process of dressing the raw flax
by beating, separating therefrom all woody and foreign matter; in cotton
manufacture, the process of separating the fibers after cleansing and
loosening by the picker preparatory to carding; in silk manufacturing
the process of arranging the floss and refuse preparatory to carding.

=Scye=—tailoring term for the armhole of a garment.

=Scye depth=—an imaginary line drawn entirely around the body at the
lower level of the arm scye, as from nape to opposit armpit on back
seam.

=Scye measure=—the circumference of the armhole. Compare Closing m.

=Sea Island=—general term for cotton grown on the islands off the
Georgia, Florida, South Carolina and Texas coasts; having a fiber of
uncommon length, fineness and silky luster.

=Seal=—an aquatic animal, the pelts of which are highly prized in the
manufacture of fur garments, fur caps, etc.; and the leather in the
manufacture of pocketbooks, belts, traveling bags, shoes, etc.

=Seal ring=—a finger r. with a bezel usually of precious stone, engraved
with symbol, arms or monogram, and used as a seal; a signet r.;
anciently an emblem of authority, used to stamp documents in place of
signature, or its temporary investment in another person gave the power
to cut a throat or scuttle a ship or engage in other pleasantries.

=Seam=—any place where two parts of a garment are sewed or joined
together; a “join”. Seams are principally known as plain s., cord s.,
double-stitcht s., lap s., swelled s., welt s., raw s., strap s.,
cemented s., braided s., piped s., strapt s., raised s., serged s., open
welt s., etc., which see elsewhere.

=Seam press stand=—a long, narrow ironing board or stand for pressing
seams.

=Seaman’s shirt=—see Naval overshirt.

=Seaman’s trousers=—see Naval t.

=Seamed back=—tailor’s term for coats made with a center seam in the
back. Compare Whole b.

=Seamen’s uniforms=—see Dress, Undress, Working; also variants.

=Seamless=—knitting term for hosiery made on a circular knitting frame
and having a seam only at the toe, extra shaping, when required, being
effected by steam-shrinking. Compare Full regular.

=Seasoning=—a process in leather manufacturing following that of
perching and prior to that of polishing; often repeated after first
polishing.

=Seat=—tailor’s term for measurement taken around that prominent part of
a man’s anatomy known as chair-warmer.

=Seat wheeling=—see Heel s. w.

=Second mourning=—black relieved by white; or dark gray.

=Seconds=—imperfect goods.

=Seconds=—see Wool.

=Section work=—tailoring term meaning made entirely by operators on
machines, each operator doing a certain detail or part of the work and
then passing it along to another who does something else; no hand
tailoring enters into this process, which is employed almost exclusivly
for the less expensiv grades of readymade clothing and by cheap tailors.
Also called Hand-to-hand made.

=Sedan beaver=—a fine grade of b. cloth made in Sedan, France.

=Seedy=—needing refurbishing.

=Seersucker=—originally a thin linen fabric like gingham; now simply
cotton gingham with or without alternate crinkled stripes effected in
weaving by varying the tension of the warp yarns; usually in two-color
effects, as blue and white.

=Selby=—an apron for four-in-hand or tandem driving, strapt around the
waist, reaching to ankle when standing; named after Jem Selby, a
well-known professional whip tooling four-in-hand between London and
Brighton.

=Selby coat=—a short, very full and boxy, double-breasted top c. for
driving.

=Self-acting rubbers=—trade term for rubber overshoes having a small
projecting point at the back of the heel, by means of which, held down
by the other foot, each (over) shoe may be easily removed.

=Self collar=—tailor’s term for a c. made of the same goods as body of
garment.

=Self-figured=—a figured pattern achieved in the loom; not printed;
generally used in connection with solid color fabrics.

=Self measurement=—any scheme or method for ascertaining the sizes of
garments, etc., ordered by mail, sometimes possible alone, but as often
requiring assistance.

=Self shank=—trade term for buttons with a laterally pierced s., as in
pearl, or more loosely, a cloth s., as in covered buttons.

=Selling sample=—any length of goods or any garment or article from
which orders are taken.

=Selvage=—the web edge of a fabric; list.

=Selvedge=—same as Selvage.

=Semi-clerical sack coat=—the ordinary single-breasted, square-cornered
s. c.; usually worn with clerical waistcoat.

=Semi-dress=—informal d.

=Semi-fitting=—neither close nor loose; partly shaped.

=Semi-frock=—the cutaway or morning coat.

=Semi-precious stone=—valuable, but not sufficiently so to be clast as a
true gem.

=Semi-ready=—proprietary term for readymade clothing provided with ample
outlets at necessary places, sometimes left unfinisht at cuffs, and
basted with a white thread in various places to give a partly finisht
effect. Stores featuring this clothing when controlled by the parent
company, are called semi-ready wardrobes, and are mostly located in
Canada.

=Semi-staple=—term descriptiv of men’s wear, goods that are neither
wholly in the staple class (as are most plain weave, black and blue
fabrics), nor yet may be clast as novelties, as are fancy weaves,
bright-colored patterns, etc., but comprising such goods as gray and
brown shades in serges, diagonals, etc.

=Sennit=—a peculiarly plaited straw braid showing serrated edges on one
side; a straw hat of such braid; contraction of “sevenknitt”. See Brab.

=Separable button=—term usually applied to cuff b. mounted on a post to
which a clip, screw or lever device permits attachment and detachment of
the top or bottom parts, supposedly a convenience for inserting in stiff
linen.

=Separable stud=—see S. button.

=Serape=—a narrow blanket, usually brilliantly colored, worn over the
shoulder or over a saddle. (Mexico, Spain, etc.)

=Serge=—general name for twill woven fabrics. Suitings are usually of
worsted yarn and with a rather flattish, diagonal twill; also made with
worsted warp and wool filling; generally plain dyed.

=Serge=—a lining material of cotton or linen warp and wool or mohair
filling, woven three-leaf twill.

=Serge de berri=—lasting (qv).

=Sergeant’s uniform=—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u.,
Fatigue u. Also variants.

=Serged seams=—in tailoring, the edges are basted or “serged” and the
seam itself usually stitcht twice, first as a plain seam and then again
thru both seam-edges, which are turned one way instead of prest open;
mostly used on loosely woven fabrics.

=Sergedusoy=—a coarse silk stuff of 18th century, used for men’s coats
and waistcoats.

=Serging=—an overcasted stitch employed to hold ravelly edges of seams.
See Serged seams.

=Seri-culture=—silk culture.

=Service belt=—(=army=) see Army b.

=Service breeches=—(=army=) for officers: of same material as s. coat,
without stripe, welt or cord; cut loose about the seat and above the
knees, fitting closely below the knee and extending to tops of shoes,
fastening with tapes, laces or buttons; for mounted officers the seat
and legs re-enforced with same material; for enlisted men: of olive-drab
woolen or khaki-colored cotton material, to match s. coat; cut loose
above knee and close-fitting below, fastened with tapes or laces; in
general conforming to the pattern prescribed for officers; for mounted
use, with re-enforcement or saddle piece, of same material, on seat and
legs.

=Service cap=—(=army=) for officers: a regulation c. of olive-drab serge
trimmed with a band of mohair braid, and with a drooping visor of black
enameled leather, with chin strap of same; worn with prescribed badge
and with olive-drab uniform by all officers. Also the cotton khaki c. of
similar model, but having a detachable top and no band. For enlisted
men: of olive-drab serge, conforming to corresponding c. for officers,
but without the lustrous braid. Also of cotton khaki, with detachable
covers.

=Service chevron=—(=army=) for enlisted men: a diagonal half-c. of cloth
of the color of the corps, department or arm of service to which wearer
is attacht, conferred for service in war, completed periods of
enlistment, etc.

=Service coat=—(=army=) for officers: a single-breasted sack c. of
olive-drab woolen or khaki-colored cotton material, made with 4 outside
choked-bellows pockets (2 above and 2 below), without plaits and with
buttoned flaps, falling collar; fitting closely at waist and loosely at
chest; 5 bronze buttons; in length reaching to one-third the distance to
knee; collar and shoulder ornaments as prescribed; officers of general
staff corps (except chief of staff) wear a band of ½ inch black braid on
sleeve, 3 inches from end; for enlisted men: a single-breasted,
straight-front sack c. of olive-drab woolen or khaki-colored cotton
material, conforming in design and cut to the service c. for officers,
trimmed as prescribed.

=Service coat=—(=navy=) for officers: a fly-front, close-meeting,
single-breasted c. of dark blue cloth or serge, shaped to the figure, in
length reaching to the crotch, with a slit or vent over each hip, and a
plain standing collar, the collar, front and bottom edges, side seams
and hip vents trimmed with wide silk braid, laid on flat, and beside
which a narrow black silk braid is laid; collar and sleeves ornamented
with appropriate devices, marks, etc., according to rank. (=Revenue
cutter service=) for all commissioned officers, in general, the same as
the service c. worn by naval officers. In warm weather a similar c. of
white linen duck, trimmed with white linen braid. For non-commissioned
officers, a similar c. without braiding; or a white c. For
masters-at-arms, a 5 button double-breasted c. of dark blue cloth with
rolling collar; or of blue serge or flannel or white duck in warm
weather.

=Service dress=—(=navy=) uniform to be worn when “Uniform B.” is
prescribed on occasions of ceremony where officers of navy and army
appear together, and at all times not otherwise provided for; consisting
of, for all officers, service coat, undress trousers (white may be
prescribed), blue cap (white cap or helmet shall be prescribed with
white trousers or may be with blue.)

=Service dress=—(=revenue cutter service=) for officers, blue or white
service coat, blue or white trousers, blue or white cap, sword and black
leather belt, white gloves except at sea. Sword and belt omitted on
ordinary boarding duty. For non-commissioned officers, a similar uniform
without sword or belt and with appropriate ornaments, etc. For seamen,
white duck jumpers with wide collars and cuffs trimmed with dark blue
flannel; trousers of dark blue cloth, broadfalls style, laced behind; or
of white duck of same pattern; blue flannel undershirt, and other
garments, ornaments, etc., as prescribed.

=Service dress=—(=army=) see S. uniform; (=marine corps=) Field d.

=Service hat=—(=army=) a soft felt h. of regulation pattern, of the
color of the s. uniform, with a cord of gold bullion for general
officers and of gold and black intermixt for all other officers; and for
enlisted men: a soft felt h. of the color of the uniform, of regulation
pattern, decorated as prescribed.

=Service trousers=—(=army=) for officers, of same material as s. coat,
without stripe, welt or cord.

=Service uniform=—(=army=) (a) for habitual wear in garrisons, (b) for
duty under arms in garrison unless otherwise prescribed, and (c) at
drills (when prescribed), target practice, maneuvers, on marches and in
the field. For all dismounted officers: (a) s. coat and trousers, s.
cap, russet leather shoes; (b) under arms, add s. belt, saber, drab
leather gloves; (c) s. coat and breeches, russet leather shoes,
leggings, s. hat, s. belt, drab leather gloves, saber, revolver;
officers of signal corps wear russet leather shoulder belt with b. and
c. when on duty requiring its use. For all mounted officers: (a) s. coat
and breeches, s. cap, russet leather boots or russet leather shoes with
leggings, spurs, drab leather gloves; (b) under arms add s. belt and
saber; (c) same as a. except s. hat and add revolver; shoulder belt for
officers of signal corps when required; for enlisted men, dismounted:
(a) s. coat and breeches, s. cap, leggings, russet leather shoes; (b)
under arms add drab leather gloves, russet leather belt and cartridge
box; (c) s. coat and breeches, leggings, russet leather shoes, s. hat,
field belt, drab leather gloves. Mounted: (a) s. coat and breeches,
leggings, s. cap, russet leather shoes, drab leather gloves, spurs; (b)
under arms add russet leather belt and cartridge box; (c) s. coat and
breeches, s. hat, leggings, russet leather shoes, spurs, field belt, and
drab leather gloves.

=Setting the twist=—a finishing process in yarn spinning; the act of
steaming the rovings or twisted worsted yarn so that the twist shall
become permanent.

=Sew-thru=—trade term for buttons made with holes to sew thru. Compare
Shank.

=Sewing machine=—an invention that has made readymade apparel a
prodigious commercial success.

=Sewing silk=—a two-cord thread with a left-hand or reverse twist, so
that as the needle goes thru the fabric the thread tightens. See also
Machine twist and Buttonhole twist.

=Sewings=—trade term for sewing silk, cotton and linen thread.

=Shabby=—pretty well worn.

=Shabby-genteel=—seedy; of incomplete freshness or outworn
fashionableness of attire.

=Shackle=—leg jewelry, not well thought of.

=Shad-belly coat=—a name, drawn from the contour of the shad, for a c.
of the pattern similar to that now known as a cutaway frock or morning
c., but originally with standing collar and buttoning nearly or close to
the neck. From the fact that Quakers preferred the shad-belly c. at a
time when other styles were popular, they received the nickname of
shad-bellies. The term is still used occasionally, referring to the
cutaway frock.

=Shaded=—trade term for goods not running exactly alike, one piece with
another of the same number; or varying in the same piece. Compare “Off
color” and “Cloudy”.

=Shadow check=—in weaving, monotone effects of plain design.

=Shadow silk=—changeable; iridescent. See Changeant.

=Shadow stripe=—an effect in cloth weaving showing a blended stripe
pattern of rather darker or lighter shade than the body-color.

=Shadow weave=—an effect achieved in the loom by alternate or regular
repeats or duplications of the pattern in darker shades of yarn, giving
the appearance of reflected shadows; in some goods certain of the yarns
are twisted in an opposit or reverse direction, which, woven, assist in
the shadow effect.

=Shag=—a heavy woolen cloth with long nap, used for coats, overcoats,
skirts, etc., when the country was young.

=Shagrine=—an old-time lining material.

=Shaker=—see below.

=Shaker flannel=—a plain woven white f., with a cotton warp and wool
filling, well napt.

=Shaker goods=—general term for fabrics, yarns, hosiery, etc.,
manufactured by the Shaker community, their most important manufacturing
settlements being those in New York and Ohio.

=Shaker socks=—originally a plain, heavy, woolen variety, in natural
color or blue mixt, latterly made with a ribbed leg and also so known.

=Shako=—a stiff, high military hat or cap with a peak in front and
usually a pompon or a plume at the front part of the flat crown; a high
fur hat or cap resembling the so-called bearskin; the glory of a
drum-major. See Full dress cap (marine corps).

=Shalloon=—a light, fine, close-woven, worsted or worsted-and-wool
fabric, twilled on both sides, usually dyed in plain colors and employed
as a lining material, so called from Chalons, France, where first made.

=Sham vest=—a narrow strip sewed inside the collar of a (livery) body
coat, usually of Valencia, extending beyond the collar about ¼ inch.

=Shamoying=—a process of dressing leather with oil and fatty substances.

=Shammy=—see Chamois.

=Shampoo=—a vigorous cleansing of the hair, with soap and water or other
adjuvants and much manipulation.

=Shamrock linen=—a fine, thin, sheer handkerchief l. resembling batiste,
woven of 1 warp l. and 1 warp fine sea island cotton alternating and
with the same arrangement of weft. Also called pineapple cloth. See
Thread-about.

=Shanghai=—an old term for a tall, lanky dude, swell, or masher. (From
Shanghai fowls, a long-legged variety introduced from China).

=Shank=—that part of a shoe between the tread and the heel; also the
steel strengthening piece inserted therein.

=Shank=—a metal or cloth projection on the underside of a button for
sewing thru onto the cloth.

=Shankbone=—a bone, properly the shankbone of a deer, used to “slicken”
or smooth and lightly polish boots which are first drawn on trees, the
rubbing of the bone on the surface of the leather imparting sufficient
oil for a “finish”.

=Shaps=—see Chaparejos.

=Sharkskin=—a name applied to a kind of rain-cloth having a round figure
and a glossy back.

=Sharkskin serge=—a fancy weave s., having some resemblance to
chain-weave s.

=Sharps=—see Needle.

=Shaving mirror=—a single or triplicate m. that may be adjusted to many
angles; a masculin luxury.

=Shaving mug=—a cup for shaving soap and water.

=Shaving soap=—a soft emollient luxury unknown to women; supposed to be
extra fine and “not to dry on face”.

=Shaving stand=—a piece of (masculin) furniture having mirrors, drawers,
etc.

=Shaving stick=—a form of shaving soap to be rubbed directly on the
wetted bristles.

=Shawknit=—a proprietary term for stockings made in rights and lefts.

=Shawl=—a square or oblong wrap of heavy cloth, plain or patterned,
often fringed, worn in place of an overgarment; usually of fine, soft
wool and woven with a long nap.

=Shawl collar=—in tailoring, a c. embraced in plain curved lines,
without a notch or step; usually silk-faced when made on dinner jackets,
self-faced when on waistcoats, or fur covered when on overcoats; a
rolling c.

=Shawl pattern=—general term for designs taken from Oriental shawls.

=Shawl pin=—a brooch used for fastening the shawls worn by (usually
elderly) men.

=Shawl roll=—same as s. collar.

=Shawl strap=—buckled leather straps, single or connected double with a
handle, for carrying shawls, steamer rugs, parcels, etc.

=Shawl waistcoat=—formerly a w. made of a shawl pattern; material
usually woolen.

=She dragon=—see Wig.

=Shears=—exaggerated “scissors” used by clothing cutters.

=Shed=—the opening or space between divisions of warp threads (or
leaves) in weaving for the passage of the shuttle carrying the weft.

=Sheepskin=—used, with the wool on, for lap robes, fur coats, gloves,
etc.; without the wool, for heavy working gloves, polishing leather,
etc.

=Sheer=—very fine, thin and delicate; gauzy.

=Shell=—term given to winter overcoats that are lined thruout with fur,
the cloth part of the garment being so called.

=Shell=—see Tortoise; see Pearl.

=Shell bag=—see Ammunition b.

=Shell carrier=—see Cartridge belt.

=Shellalee=—a disused spelling of shillelagh.

=Shells=—the thin metal discs used in making covered buttons.

=Shepherd check=—a name given to twill woven suitings, having a peculiar
small black-and-white check pattern, achieved by six black and six
white, repeatedly, both in the warp and filling directions. Sometimes
other colors are used instead of black and white; and frequently a
colored thread is used at intervals in either or both directions, for
illumination.

=Shepherder=—a 1907 variation of sombrero.

=Sherryvallies=—overalls, formerly worn over trousers, to protect them
from mud and dust when traveling. The word is probably a corruption of
“chevalier”. See Shorrevals.

=Shetland=—very shaggy overcoating, named as some say after the Shetland
pony, the coat of which it is supposed to imitate in appearance, or as
others say from the coarse wool of the Shetland sheep from which it was
first made, and which seems the more probable.

=Shield=—a sort of fancy dicky or plastron worn with boys’ sailor
blouses.

=Shield bosom=—a stiff shirt b. built up of two or more thicknesses of
linen or other material of various fineness, made either in one piece or
“open front”.

=Shield bow=—a b. tie without band, attacht to a shield which fastens by
a loop to the collar button and engages the folds of the collar; worn
only with turned down collars.

=Shillalagh=—ask an Irishman.

=Shin guard=—a sort of shield of rattan reeds sewed into padded leather
or canvas, worn around the leg by cricketers, football players, etc.

=Shingle=—to cut the hair evenly short all-over the head; a “monkey
cut”.

=Shipping clerk=—the chap who makes you cuss a late delivery.

=Shirt=—a garment worn between underwear and coat (or vest);
specifically a sort of loose sack with sleeves and a plain front or with
a plaited or shield bosom, usually made of fine cotton and linen
fabrics, tho for neglige wear fine woolen and silk materials are also
employed. Shirts with shield bosoms are commonly designated dress shirts
(whether white or colored), the designation evening or full dress s.
distinguishing those entirely of white and particularly with a large
full bosom. Bosom shirts are usually made (1) open front, (2) closed
front with open back, (3) open front and back, (4) open front coat
style, while those with plaited or plain soft fronts are usually made
open front coat style. All varieties are made with and without attacht
cuffs and white full dress shirts often with attacht collars. All of
which, and more, too, you doubtless knew.

=Shirt bosom=—a sort of bill board for vulgarians to bedeck with
diamonds.

=Shirt coat=—a windproof, dust proof and waterproof “slip-on”
overgarment for motor wear, made (somewhat like a poncho) without a
front opening, but having an elastic rubber yoke (thru which the head is
past) closely encircling the neck, and sleeves provided with wind
shields.

=Shirt collar=—any c., separate or attacht, worn with a shirt, generally
known as standing, wing, lay-down, folded etc.

=Shirt cuffs=—memorandum tablets.

=Shirt frill=—the ruffle once worn on shirt bosoms, the decadence of
which is seriously to be regretted.

=Shirt front=—a separate bosom or dicky.

=Shirt pin=—begemmed bravura now obsolete.

=Shirt protector=—a sort of muffler, generally shaped, for the
protection of dress shirts against dust and ditto the chest of the
wearer from colds, etc.

=Shirt stud=—a button-like sort of fastener for open bosoms, usually of
gold with or without settings of precious stones; a similar article for
closed bosom shirts usually mounted on a spiral or screw or separable
post, by which it is inserted.

=Shirting=—general term for linen and cotton cloths intended for men’s
shirts; usually woven tighter, singed closer and more heavily calendered
than when intended for other uses.

=Shirting flannel=—general term for a large variety of plain and twill
woven light-weight soft wool fabrics suitable for outing shirts, etc.

=Shirtwaist=—a test of masculin fortitude during the summer of 1901 and
a while after.

=Shirtwaist suspenders=—see Invisible s.

=Shirty=—slang for your state of mind when angry.

=Shoddy=—cloth made from cheap yarns spun over cotton warp; these yarns
are spun from old woolen rags chopt into waste, then carded and spun
into threads of various sizes and strength. The cloth is soft, nicely
finisht, attractiv in appearance and comparativly free from
imperfections; it can be woven into patterns similar to those of the
most expensiv woolens, and is a very cheap fabric, often as low as 30c
to 15c a yard, and a larger yardage is consumed than of any other kind
of goods manufactured for men’s wear.

=Shoddy=—(adj.) of poor quality; trashy; not genuine.

=Shoe=—an outer covering or dress for the human foot, usually
distinguisht from a boot (qv) by not reaching above the ankle, commonly
made of leather.

=Shoe=—the base or bottom part of a collar button.

=Shoe brush=—a brush for cleaning or polishing shoes; any of various
models, some having daubers and handles attacht.

=Shoe buckle=—a b. for fastening a shoe by a strap across the instep, or
one worn only for ornament.

=Shoe button=—a small b. that, before the era of patent fasteners, had a
habit of dropping off in public, and which still is unable to keep
perpetually black.

=Shoe buttoner=—see button hook.

=Shoe horn=—a curved metal device, not unlike a surgeon’s speculum, for
helping tight shoes onto the foot.

=Shoe lace=—a fastening that always breaks in public places.

=Shoe leather=—slang for shoes.

=Shoe names=—generally those coined, fancy names applied to lasts of
peculiar shape with peculiar styles of toes; usually of no permanency or
value.

=Shoe pack=—a shoe made like an Indian moccasin, usually of white, oil
tanned stock, and formerly worn extensivly in winter in the northern
lumber states, but now in limited demand by western farmers during
harvest; known since revolutionary times.

=Shoe peg=—a small tack or nail of wood or metal used for fastening
soles to uppers.

=Shoe plate=—a triangular device of steel affixt to the toe or heel of a
s., or both (as of a baseball s.), the ends of which are bent at right
angles to the foot, serving to give a firm footing when running,
pitching, etc.

=Shoe pull=—see Heel strap.

=Shoe scraper=—an iron contrivance once prominent at the side of the
steps to a house, used for scraping dirt from the shoes before entering.

=Shoe strings=—s. laces.

=Shoe tie=—a s. lace.

=Shoe tree=—a wooden form for keeping shoes in shape. See Tree.

=Shoemaker’s wax=—a mixture of pitch and tallow (highly prized by
schoolboys for sticking on the teacher’s chair).

=Shoestring=—a long, narrow black silk necktie.

=Shoestrut=—a hose supporter for men, made of spring steel wire,
attaching to the top of the shoe and the top of the stocking and so worn
in an upright position.

=Shootin’-iron=—the “weepon” for which hip pockets were invented.

=Shooting coat=—a sack c. or jacket of corduroy, duck, etc., with deep,
capacious pockets, worn by sportsmen.

=Shooting hat=—a low crowned soft h. of corduroy or mackinaw cloth, with
a brim that turns up or down behind.

=Shooting hose=—same as golf h. (qv).

=Shooting jacket=—see S.-coat.

=Shop=—store.

=Shop-assistant=—English term for what we call salesclerk and salesman.

=Shop board=—the table that journeymen tailors work upon.

=Shop cap=—commonly, a flat topt, straight-sided c. with a peak, usually
of cheap cotton material.

=Shop-made=—general trade term for garments and other articles made in a
shop where modern machinery and labor saving methods are in use—as, for
illustration, garments made in a modern factory instead of by highly
paid journeymen. Compare Made.

=Shopkeeper=—a retail merchant, commonly with but small business.

=Shoplifter=—just plain thief.

=Shopper=—a spy in the employ of a rival merchant.

=Shopping=—“just looking.”

=Shopworn=—soiled, frayed, rubbed, scuft, barkt, nickt, etc., by
handling, dust, accident, etc.

=Shorrevals=—a sort of pantaloon or legging worn on horseback as a
protection against mud, over the trousers or breeches, buttoning on the
outside of the leg; obsolete. See Sherryvallies.

=Short clothes=—a graduation step from the long dresses of early
infancy.

=Short clothes=—the knee breeches of the last and preceding century.

=Short collar=—tailoring term for a c. put on too short for the gorge of
a coat and consequently tight.

=Short fly=—in tailoring a defect in trousers-making, having a
penitential effect upon the wearer.

=Short hose=—a stocking reaching nearly to the knee, worn by children;
the short stocking of the Scotch highlanders.

=Short measures=—general term for those systems of tailors’ measurements
embracing everything comprehended by the long m. systems, but which are
divided, in the taking, into two or more separate measurements and also
including measurements which zealots of other systems declare redundant.
Compare Long m. and Superlativ m.

=Short roll=—high buttoning; the reverse of long r. (qv). (Tailoring
term.)

=Short sleeves=—general term for undergarments with sleeves reaching to
the elbow, or shorter.

=Short staple=—short fiber, as cotton, wool, etc. (qv).

=Short stout=—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit
corpulent persons of less than average hight. Compare S. and Extra s.

=Short vamp=—see Long v.

=Short wool=—fine fleece 2 to 4 inches long. See Wool.

=Shorts=—early familiar term for knee breeches in contradistinction to
long trousers. Compare Longs. See Short clothes.

=Shot=—(1) textil term for a changeable effect produced by the use of
warp threads of one color and weft of another, producing a changeable
color effect. See Changeant. (2) Also a textil term for seeded effects,
produced usually by a brilliant thread (as silk in a woolen fabric)
appearing at close intervals over the face of the goods.

=Shoulder belt=—a b. passing over one shoulder and about the body on the
opposit side; worn as a badge or regalia, or to sustain a weapon, pouch,
etc.; a baldric, bandolier, sword b., etc.

=Shoulder belts=—(=army=) worn with full dress by officers of the signal
corps; for chief signal officer, of red russia leather having 3 stripes
of gold embroidery and field-glass case attacht; other officers, a b.
corresponding to their waist b., with field-glass case attacht.

=Shoulder cape=—loosely, any short or small c., whether worn as a
separate garment or attacht to an overcoat.

=Shoulder closer=—in clothing manufacture, a workman who sews up the
shoulder seams of coats.

=Shoulder form=—a coat hanger or display fixture conforming to the
shoulders of a coat.

=Shoulder holster=—a revolver h. with a breast and shoulder strap, worn
under the coat on the left side.

=Shoulder knot=—a braided ornamental k. of gold lace worn on the
shoulder in lieu of strap and epaulet, indicating rank, worn by
commissioned officers only; a kind of epaulet without fringe.

=Shoulder mark=—a strip of cloth about 2¼ × 5 inches, pointed at one
end, worn by officers in the navy, distinguishing their rank according
to the style and manner of braid and other ornament.

=Shoulder measure method=—one of various systems of garment measurement.
(Tailoring.)

=Shoulder piece=—(1) a piece over the shoulder joining the front and
back of a garment; (2) a shoulder strap; (=3=) armor protecting the
shoulders.

=Shoulder pitch=—see S. point.

=Shoulder point=—where the forepart and backpart (of a coat) meet and
are seamed at the shoulder, particularly the crest thereof; a term in
tailor’s measurements.

=Shoulder stick=—a shoemaker’s tool for “setting” the edges of soles and
heels.

=Shoulder strap=—a s. of cloth edged with gold lace and bearing certain
insignia, indicating rank, etc., worn by commissioned officers in the
army and navy. See Regulations for specific information.

=Shoulder strap=—see Tourist s.

=Shovel hat=—a low, round-crowned, felt h. with a plain flat brim which
is longer in front and behind than at the sides and droops slightly;
worn by Roman and Anglican clerics, the latter much modified; the name
derived from its appearance.

=Show card=—a window sign; a study in still li—es.

=Show off=—an inborn predilection for displaying new clothes, jewels,
accomplishments, etc.

=Show window=—a place where goods are displayed, to be damaged by the
sun, for the purpose of supplying occasions for reduced prices in
“bargain sales”.

=Shower coat=—a raincoat.

=Shrink=—general term for (1) the process of reducing or contracting the
length and width of fabrics by means of steam, cold water, etc., so that
when fashioned into or used as part of any garment or article of
apparel, there will be no further appreciable loss; also called sponging
(see Sponge); (2) to lose in size in laundering or use; (3) to contract
any particular spot or portion of a garment or article of apparel, for
purposes of shapeliness, fit or style, by means of a hot iron and water.

=Shroud=—the last garment we wear; one that the wearer never hurries the
maker to complete.

=Shushine=—proprietary name for a preparation for polishing shoes.

=Siberian dog=—the fur of a species of dog or wolf found in Siberia;
resembles that of a fox in texture. Used for coats, caps, etc.

=Sicilian=—a plain-woven mohair fabric. See Mohair.

=Side-body=—tailor’s term for a part of a frock coat, stopping at arm
scye and at waist, connecting forepart with backpart.

=Side-buckle trousers=—t. buckled at each side of the waist instead of
behind, the straps and buckle being smaller than on back-buckled
trousers.

=Side edge=—a sort of ornamental welt, placket or rever inserted into
the plait seam of the (skirt-) back of skirted uniform and livery coats,
variously shaped but usually contrived with 3 points, upon each of which
a button is set.

=Side leather=—a shoemaking term applied to upper leathers made from cow
hides which have been split down the backbone, a whole hide making two
sides when so split; a term distinguishing certain class of upper l. as
compared with calf l.

=Side of neck=—old name for shoulder point (qv).

=Side pocket=—the principal trousers p. with opening thru the side seam
of trousers. Compare Top p.

=Side pocket=—a curious name given to a drinking saloon in an
out-of-the-way place; a resort for thieves.

=Side prick stitch=—same as prick s. (qv)—so called from the way the s.
is placed. See also Pricking back s.

=Side stitch=—made similarly to the prick s., the stitches, however,
being laid just at the side of where the needle came thru. Employed for
especial neatness and firmness.

=Side tabs=—trade term for standing shirt collars with small flaps on
each side, beneath which the scarf is held and prevented from “riding”.

=Sideburns=—vernacular for short side whiskers.

=Signet ring=—see Seal r.

=Silesia=—a light, stout, closely woven, fine twilled, calendered cotton
material used for linings.

=Silesia seam=—a strong s. finish employed in making garments of fabrics
that are liable to slip or pull apart or that have little strength,
specifically a strip of silesia laid under a seam and stitcht to same on
both sides.

=Silk=—too exhaustiv for this book; you know what it is, or ought to,
for it has been used since 3400 B. C. See encyclopedia for lengthy
treatise.

=Silk beaver=—see Beaver.

=Silk braid=—a fine, firm tape or b. used by tailors for binding edges
of garments, etc., woven fairly close but flexible, of various widths,
denominated “lignes”, and also, according to purposes for which
designed, known as flat b., half-and-half-b., trouser-b., etc.

=Silk braid button=—a b. made on a wooden or metal mold covered with
silk braid, used on dress coats, waistcoats and overcoats.

=Silk hat=—an uncomfortable piece of aristocratic (?) headgear having
the faculty of elongating the tall and stunting the short, and a style
of headdress perennially threatened with retirement, but which seems to
be quite as cheerfuly ineradicable as dandelions in a grass plot.

=Silk-mixt=—wool, cotton, linen, etc., intermixt with silk in the yarn.

=Silk mixtures=—trade name for worsted and woolen cloths, having
decorativ threads of silk intersperst in the weaving, or woven partly of
yarns in which the silk threads are twisted.

=Silk-plated=—a s. face on a cotton or wool body, as silk-p. hosiery.

=Silk stick=—a piece of wood about 2½ × 12 inches, partly covered with
cloth, used by tailors for holding sewing silk in such a way that it may
readily be drawn out, a needleful at a time, without snarling.

=Silk stocking=—epithet applied to aristocrats unexpectedly meddling in
politics or other affairs that do not ordinarily concern them.

=Silk tests=—see Elasticity t., Flame t., Pure dye t., Weighted s. t.,
Cotton t., etc.

=Silker=—Briticism for silk hat.

=Silkopolis=—Paterson, N. J., where most of the domestic silk goods are
manufactured.

=Silkworm=—bombyx mori, attacus ricini, attacus cynthia, telea
polyphemus, et al.—all of which probably tells you little more than you
know. Encyclopedias are good investments—get one.

=Silvalin=—a yarn or weaving material spun from a sort of paper obtained
from wood, manufactured in Southern Germany. Probably an incorrect
spelling of Xylolin (qv).

=Silver fox=—the most valuable of all fox furs. Single skins are often
sold as high as $500.

=Silver gilt=—(1) gilded silver; (2) spurious gilding of s. by means of
a yellow lacquer.

=Silver headed=—getting along in years.

=Silver plated=—baser metal coated or plated with s.

=Silver stick=—same as gold s.

=Silver top=—jocular for a gray haired person.

=Simitar=—see Scimitar.

=Simulated cuff=—in tailoring, a welt, plait or other imitation of a
turned back c., on a coat sleeve.

=Singeing=—the process of removing nap from the surface of fabrics by
means of heat or flame.

=Single-breasted=—fastened with a single row of buttons or other
fastening and having but one thickness or leaf of the garment or fabric
at the breast. Compare Double-breasted.

=Single-breasted cutaway=—see C. frock coat and Frock coat.

=Single-breasted frock coat=—(1) a f. c. made with full straight hanging
skirts and unspliced foreparts; a “s. b. Prince Albert”; (2) a cutaway
f. c. See Frock c.

=Single-breasted Prince Albert=—(a misnomer, the “Prince Albert”,
so-called, being strictly a double-breasted frock); except for a single
row of buttons, of the same general style as the double-breasted or P.
A. frock.

=Single-breasted sack coat=—see Sack c.

=Single crepe=—a black silk c., less crinkly and softer than double c.
(qv); used for light mourning. See Crepe.

=Single cuff=—(1) an imitation coat sleeve c.; (2) an unfolded shirt c.
Compare Double c.

=Single soled=—having but one sole; cheap; poor.

=Single-stitcht=—tailor’s term for an edge finish obtained by stitching
on machine at a stated distance from the actual edge (as “1–16 in. s.
s.”) the edges having first been joined and turned.

=Single-stitcht seam=—see Cord s.

=Single warp=—a term used (1) in reference to yarns, meaning that the
warp threads are single and not two or more ply; also (2) in connection
with fabric construction indicating a single system of warp threads
with, say, a double system of weft or filling threads.

=Singles=—reeled filaments of raw silk twisted for firmness but not
doubled.

=Singlestick=—a light ash rod or stick, used as a substitute for the
sword in fencing exercises.

=Singlet=—(1) an aboriginal waistcloth; (2) an undershirt; (3) an
unlined waistcoat similar to a doublet.

=Sir Knight’s coat=—(=Masonic=) a single-breasted frock c. of black
cloth, with standing military collar, the front closing with 11 buttons.
Compare Commander’s c. and Fatigue blouse.

=Sissy=—opposit of tomboy.

=Size=—a unit of measurement.

=Size=—to size up; to form an opinion concerning a person or thing, the
equivalent of to take one’s measure.

=Size stick=—a shoe dealer’s foot measure.

=Size strap=—a foot measuring tape used by shoe dealers.

=Size ticket=—a small, square paper ticket with a big size number sewed
or pinned to the tail of a coat—which the customer sometimes is allowed
to wear away to show that he is a readymade man.

=Sizes=—trade term for an assortment or range of sizes and shapes.

=Sizes=—in the readymade clothing trade garments are classified as
regular, long, stout, slim, short-stout, corpulent, extra stout,
long-stout, long-slim, etc., indicating normal proportions and
variations thereof; all of which see.

=Sizing=—(1) the process of strengthening warp yarns by means of a gummy
preparation to enable them to withstand the weaving process without
chafing or breaking; (2) a finishing operation, similarly achieved,
applied to certain grades of cotton, linen or silk fabrics for purposes
of fictitious weight and appearance. See Glaze and Washable.

=Sizing=—a process in hat manufacture where the hat, still in the large
cone as delivered from the forming department, is carefully shrunken by
continual rolling, sqeezing, dipping in hot water, etc., until reduced
or fitted to its proper size, but still retaining the cone shape.

=Sizy=—overloaded with dressing.

=Skating cap=—(1) a knitted toque; (2) a turban c. of fur or cloth.

=Skating jacket=—a short, snug-fitting coat.

=Skating shoe=—a soft, flexible s. of less than regular hight.

=Skean dhu=—a Scottish highlander’s knife, worn in the stocking when in
clan costume.

=Skees=—bed slats with footholds affording first-rate amusement to those
fond of pitching head-first into snow banks.

=Skein=—a certain quantity of yarn or thread, wound, doubled and
knotted. Compare Hank.

=Skein dyes=—trade term for fabrics dyed in the yarn before weaving.
Compare Piece d., Ingrain d., Slub d., etc.

=Skeleton=—term applied to a coat made without lining.

=Skeleton suit=—a close-fitting s. of clothes, the jacket or vest having
a series of buttons at the waist to which the trousers are attacht.

=Ski=—see Skees.

=Skilts=—a kind of short trousers worn by boys and farmhands in Colonial
times; they reacht to just below the knee, were very broad in the legs,
but fitted snugly at the waist, needing no brace to support them.

=Skimpt=—done in a superficial or careless way. (=Skimped.=)

=Skin= (=to=)—trade term for leather with grain so tender that it peels
or barks easily.

=Skin wool=—see Pulled w.

=Skinner’s=—trade diminutiv for the general line of silk goods,
especially lining silks and satins, made by Wm. Skinner Mfg. Co.

=Skins=—trade term for the hides of small animals, as sheep, goat, deer,
etc., and for the lighter forms of leather. Compare Hides.

=Skirt=—the lower or hanging part of a coat, shirt, etc.; a peplum.

=Skirt pocket=—any p. made in the skirts or tail-part of a coat.

=Skirt strap=—a narrow band-like piece sewn to the waist seam of an
evening dress coat, extending from the skirt (of which it is usually an
integral part) to the front fore-edge.

=Skirted=—a term applied to certain wool fleeces imported into the U. S.
from which the head, belly and breech wool (inferior parts) have been
removed, to avoid full effect of the tariff.

=Skirty=—said of a coat with very full drapery.

=Skive=—in shoemaking, the process of shaving or paring leathers for
joints, etc.

=Skiver=—(1) split leather; (2) a workman who burls edges of leather;
(3) a machine for cutting counters and rands.

=Skull cap=—a light c., without peak or brim; closely fitting the skull.

=Sky piece=—slang for hat.

=Slanting pocket=—a p. placed at an angle.

=Slash=—a strip of tape, lace, braid, etc., worn on a non-commissioned
officer’s sleeve to distinguish him from a private.

=Slash pocket=—see Slit p.

=Slasher=—a machine for sizing and finishing warp yarn.

=Slasht=—said of a garment as a doublet, having many decorativ slits
underlaid or puft with fabric of different color. =(Slashed.)=

=Slater’s=—general term for standard flannels, uniform cloths, etc.,
made by S. Slater & Sons, Webster, Mass.

=Sleeping bag=—a large b.-like receptacle used at night by explorers,
prospectors, campers, etc., usually of sheepskin with the wool on,
waterproof duck, blanketing, etc., sometimes in combination with an air
mattress, the individual creeping into it for warmth.

=Sleeping stockings=—see Bed socks.

=Sleeping suit=—a loose fitting, one-piece, sleeping garment, usually of
canton flannel, or flannel, so fashioned as to cover the entire body
except head and hands.

=Sleeve=—that part of a coat, or shirt, or other garment, covering the
arm.

=Sleeve buttons=—in coat making, usually the same size as the waistcoat
b. tho fashion is fickle.

=Sleeve head=—tailor’s term for that part of a s. where a join is made
with the shoulder; if slightly puft or fulled on it is called
full-headed (qv).

=Sleeve head seam=—juncture of s. and body; the scye.

=Sleeve holder=—a device for holding up or shortening one’s shirt
sleeves to allow of freedom for forearm and protect the s. from undue
soiling or injury.

=Sleeve lining=—(1) a fine quality of silesia with a lustrous face
printed in fancy patterns, or with silk stripes, or both; (2) a fine
quality of cambric similarly illuminated; (3) a light, thin silk.

=Sleeve protector=—see Oversleeve.

=Sleeve ticket=—a paper or paper-faced cotton-back ticket attacht to
readymade coat sleeves having lot number, size and price marks printed
thereon.

=Slender=—see Slim.

=Slick up=—to get drest.

=Slicker=—a waterproof overcoat; an oilskin.

=Slide=—see String out.

=Sliders=—overalls; term obsolete.

=Sliding pads=—adjustable articles worn by base-stealers as protection
when making grand stand plays.

=Slim=—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit
slenderly built persons with waists of less than normal measure. Compare
Long-slim.

=Slimsy=—slightly made; frail in build; flimsy in texture.

=Sling=—(1) a suspensory band for supporting an injured arm or leg; (2)
an elementary article of apparel among savages; (3) a strap by means of
which a rifle may be slung on the shoulders.

=Sling strap=—an attachment to a sword belt to which the scabbard is
attacht.

=Slinks=—in the old Irish glove trade, a name given to skins of unborn
calves from parturient cows purposely slaughtered.

=Slip=—an infant’s dress.

=Slip=—see String out.

=Slip collar=—a detachable c.

=Slip-on=—(1) a loose single-breasted sack overcoat, made without side
seams; usually of waterproof material; (2) a raincoat; (3) a waterproof
overcoat with skirts ample enough to cover saddle and legs.

=Slip-over=—a loose overcoat. Same as Slip-on.

=Slip sole=—a thin piece of sole leather placed between the outer s. and
inner s. of a shoe to make the finisht edge of the bottom thicker.

=Slip stitch=—a s. slipt over the next succeeding s. without catching or
knitting. See Drop-s.

=Slipper=—a low, light shoe, for indoor wear, into which (or out of
which) the foot is easily slipt, fraught with boyish reminiscences.

=Slipper=—a workman who removes the newly formed hat body from the cone.
See Coning, Slipping, etc.

=Slipping=—in hat making, the act of removing the body of a hat from the
cone.

=Slipshod=—down at the heel.

=Slit pocket=—any p. without welt or flap. See Welt p., Flapt p., Jetted
p., Raincoat p., etc.

=Slit welt=—the felled or hemmed opening in the palm of a glove.

=Sliver=—a soft, continuous rope or strand of wool, cotton or silk
fibers, as obtained in the carding and combing processes.

=Slob=—one who is untidy or slovenly in his personal appearance.

=Sloonly=—badly attired; slovenly drest.

=Slop shop=—(English) a shop where sailor’s readymade clothes, small
wares, etc., are sold.

=Slope of shoulder measure=—tailor’s term for (1) the upper or strap
measurement (qv) as taken by the long m. system and (2) the depth of
scye m. as taken by the short m. system. See Over-shoulder m.

=Slops=—English for readymade clothing of the cheaper grades and
workingmen’s jeans; up to and including the year 1903 exports of
clothing from the United Kingdom were officially classified as “apparel
and slops”. In 16th century, a term applied promiscuously to all
garments easily adjusted and imaginably ungainly, neglige or slipshoddy.
The word itself is derived from “slip”.

=Slouch hat=—any soft felt h.; especially a fedora or alpine h.

=Slub=—see Slubbing.

=Slub dyed=—trade term for woolen and worsted fabrics woven of yarns
dyed while still in the slub state. See Slubbing. Compare Skein d. and
Piece d.

=Slubbing=—a slightly twisted or badly twisted roll of wool; also called
slub and slubber.

=Slubbing machine=—a machine for drawing out and slightly twisting
carded wool; now superseded by improved devices attacht to wool-cards.

=Slug=—an iron for heating hollow hat irons.

=Slug lugger=—the youngster who carries the hot iron slug used for
heating hatter’s irons.

=Slugging=—a process in shoemaking performed by a s. machine which
drives in round the edges of the surface of the finisht heel rows of
brass or iron nails called slugs. A wire is put thru the machine and
this wire is automatically driven into the leather and cut off, having
the effect of leaving in the leather brass or iron nails.

=Slumber robe=—undertaker’s euphemism for shroud.

=Small=—tailor’s term for the hollow of the back at waistline
(small-of-the-back).

=Small arms=—fire arms, carried in the hand, and fired from the hand or
shoulder.

=Small-falls=—see Narrow f. and Front-f.

=Smalls=—close-fitting knee breeches.

=Smart=—a dandy of 1760 or thereabout.

=Smart set=—that element of our social organization that assumes to be
better drest, better mannered, better financed and better in various
other ways (not including morality) than the rest of us.

=Smock=—a large apron covering the person, such as is worn by butchers.

=Smock frock=—a yoked blouse or loose shirt of coarse linen or cotton,
worn by field laborers (in Europe) over other clothes.

=Smock linen=—a coarse, linen material for smocks.

=Smoke helmet=—a protectiv head covering, similar to a diver’s h., worn
by firemen and supplied with air from a comprest air receiver carried on
the back.

=Smoked pearl=—dark, cloudy.

=Smoked spectacles=—s. with lenses of smoked glass.

=Smoking cap=—broadly, any c. worn indoors while smoking, more
specifically, a fancy velvet, silk or cloth c. similar to a fez (qv).

=Smoking jacket=—any fancy coat for house (smoking) wear.

=Smoothing iron=—see Goose.

=Smudge=—to soil.

=Smuggler=—a dealer in contraband merchandise; an evader of customs
duties; a fraudulent importer.

=Smut=—a soiled or dirty condition as of soot, coal dust, ink smears,
etc.

=Smutch=—see Smudge.

=Snack basket=—a lunch b.

=Snag=—a broken tooth.

=Snail back=—see Wig.

=Snail pearl=—trade name for p. buttons, etc., in color, sometimes
natural, but more often dyed, and usually dark blue or red.

=Snakeskin garters=—worn in 18th century “to ward off cramps in the
legs”.

=Snap brim=—a hat b., flat structurally, tighter around the outer
circumference so that it may be tilted up or down in front, back or
sides; name probably from a snapping sound made in effecting the desired
tilt.

=Snap button=—a self-locking b. for bachelors, widowers and men with
negligent wives; especially useful when suspender buttons drop off.

=Snaps=—metal ball-and-socket clasps used on plackets, flies, gloves,
etc.

=Snarled=—tangled.

=Sneakers=—slang for rubber soled shoes; rubber heels; overshoes.

=Snide=—base, imitation, undesirable, fraudulent.

=Snip=—an overdrest man; a coxcomb; a finical person.

=Snipe collar=—tailor’s term for a long and slender coat c.

=Snob=—an imaginary somebody; read Thackeray for elucidativ treatis.

=Snob=—a journeyman shoemaker; an old English usage which has well-nigh
disappeared in the mother country, and is not much used in America, save
in some parts of Massachusetts and Pennsylvania.

=Snow=—cant term for linen.

=Snow goggles=—see below.

=Snow spectacles=—(1) of various forms; commonly a slotted wood,
celluloid or metal shield, contrived to permit vision while shutting off
glare; (2) more loosely, smoked glass s.

=Snow shoe=—a sort of mammoth tennis racket affording easy means of
suicide.

=Snub nose=—broad and tip-tilted.

=Snuff box=—a small b., often ornamental or costly, for snuff, carried
in the pocket; in very general use in the days of the dandies—when may
it not be revived?

=Soap=—a detergent—used for personal cleanliness, in the laundry, in
wool preparation, mechanically, medicinally, and palaverously.

=Soap box=—a small b., usually fancy, of celluloid, metal or other
material, used principally by travelers for carrying their personal
cakes of s.

=Soap-chalk=—tailor’s marking c., compounded of pigment and soap or wax
so as to disappear under a hot iron or by agency of benzine.

=Soap shrunk=—trade term relating to a process of contracting cloths and
fabrics in soap and water, by which the maximum amount of shrinkage is
obtained; the best process for heavy cotton goods, as duck, canvas, etc.
Compare Steam s., Cold water s., etc.

=Soap-stiff=—tailor’s term for work, as of hems on the bottoms of
trousers, stiffened with soap instead of, as is common (with cheaper
work) with rubber tissue.

=Soapstone=—steatite or talc-rock, used as a marking-chalk on cloth.

=Social full dress=—(=revenue cutter service=) worn by commissioned
officers on occasions of strictly social nature, conforming in material,
cut, etc., to the evening dress of the navy, differing principally in
that the coat has 5 buttons on each breast instead of 3.

=Society=—broadly, the intercourse of people of self asserted
superiority, such as the new rich.

=Society man=—useless in business; good to sell clothes to.

=Sock=—(1) a knit or woven foot covering, having a leg shorter than that
of a stocking, a term much less euphonious than hose; (2) the light shoe
worn by comic actors in the Greek and Roman drama; (3) a warm insole;
(4) a sandal or clog formerly worn by the Recollect friars.

=Sock lining=—a piece of felt, cloth or leather, placed on the inside of
a shoe at the heel; used as a finishing method for covering up the ends
of nails and tacks used for attaching the heels to the sole.

=Sock stick=—in a lumber camp, a pronged s. or tree branch on which the
workmen hang their clothes near the fire.

=Soft finishing=—a process in hat manufacture whereby, after blocking
and drying, soft hats are adjusted on wooden blocks, pounced and finisht
smooth, ironed and trimmed to exact sizes of brim.

=Soft front=—a trade term for neglige shirts, more specifically those
without plaits.

=Soft prest=—but lightly gone over with the iron; not creased.
(Tailoring term.) Compare Hard p. (=S. pressed.=)

=Soft roll=—tailoring term, most commonly applied to lapels and coat
fronts, meaning not made or prest hard or stiff, but workt to turn or
handle freely; or lightly prest for same end.

=Soie=—French for silk.

=Soie ondee=—a species of thrown silk. See Throwing.

=Soiled=—ready to be “marked down”.

=Soisette=—proprietary name for a mercerized cotton cloth used for
pajamas, outing shirts, etc.

=Solar tip=—proprietary name for a make of children’s shoes having heavy
sole leather protectiv t.

=Sold out=—trade term expressiv of being out of a certain line and
unable to make further deliveries.

=Sold up=—trade term expressiv of being in a condition to accept no more
orders for delivery or manufacture.

=Soldiers’ uniforms=—see the various descriptions of army u. under Full
dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., etc.

=Sole=—the bottom or walked-on part of a shoe or stocking.

=Sole scouring=—one of the final processes in modern shoemaking, whereby
all roughness of a s. is scoured off by holding against a machine having
rolls covered with sandpaper. See Sandpapering.

=Sole leather=—thick, heavy cowhide or other l. used for soles.

=Sole plate=—same as Heel p.

=Solid gold=—24 carats pure.

=Soliel=—textil term for a shining, lustrous, finish on silk and woolen
fabrics.

=Solitaire=—a ribbon of black silk tied loosely and worn around the
neck, sometimes attacht to the bag of the wig and tuckt loosely into the
front of the shirt (1760 or thereabout).

=Solitaire=—a diamond ring marking a great event in a young man’s life,
afterward often becoming a commonplace happening in his relations with
other men’s wives.

=Sombrero=—a broad-brimmed hat, usually of felt, common in Mexico and
the Southwest; often lavishly ornamented with gold lace, etc.

=Sonabitch=—a small imperial or goatee (qv).

=Sons of wax=—humorous term for shoemakers.

=Sorting=—the first process in woolen manufacture; classifying the
fibers of the fleece.

=Sorting kersey=—one of the old names for kersey (qv).

=Sorts=—trade term for sizes (qv), used specially when one is buying to
fill in the range.

=Sour=—a chemical step or process in cotton and linen bleaching.

=Soupled=—in silk throwing, having the external gluey covering removed
by heating in an acid bath.

=Soutache braid=—a narrow, roundish braid of the herringbone variety, of
silk, mohair, tinsel, etc.; used decorativly.

=South street=—a street in Philadelphia well known for its numerous
small, cheap clothing shops, tho of rather better flavor than Baxter s.,
N. Y. (qv); local synonym for cheap clothing.

=Southern ties=—laced low shoes, slightly higher than Oxfords, similar
to the Blucher model, but with the tops beginning farther back toward
the sides of the foot.

=Sou’wester=—a tarpaulin hat with a broad, drooping brim, especially so
behind to protect the neck.

=Sox=—vulgar for half hose (qv).

=Spaced front=—trade term for folded shirt collars more or less cut away
in f., meeting or not meeting at point of fold. Compare Meeting folder.
Term also applied to straight standing collars having an opening or
space in f.

=Spanish cape=—a semi-military c.

=Spanish linen=—a strong, plain woven fabric of l. warp and cotton
filling, 27 inches wide. Said to be fast color, non-creasable and
washable without mildew; of weight suitable for office coats, shirts,
pajamas, etc.; formerly made entirely by hand, but nowadays by
machinery.

=Sparkler=—diamond.

=Sparrowtails=—see Swallowtail.

=Spat puttee=—a p. legging covering the instep.

=Spats=—overgaiters.

=Spatterdash=—a sort of overgaiter or legging.

=Special full dress=—(=army=) see Evening d. uniform.

=Special full dress=—(=navy=) worn on state occasions at home and
abroad; when receiving the President, any foreign ruler or member of
royal family; at special ceremonies or entertainments; at general muster
on first Sunday of every month; receptions to ex-Presidents, to Vice
President or Secretary of Navy. Consists of—for all commissioned
officers, except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief
carpenters and chief sailmakers—special f. d. coat, f. d. trousers,
cockt hat; epaulets, sword and f. d. belt, white gloves, medals and
badges; for the commissioned officers excepted above, and for warrant
officers, mates and clerks, the same as “Undress A”; for midshipmen, the
same as “full dress”; (=marine corps=) worn on the same or similar
occasions. Consists of—for major general commandment: f. d. coat,
special f. d. or white trousers, chapeau, f. d. cap or white helmet,
sash, sword, f. d. sword, belt and knot, epaulets, white standing
collar, black shoes, white gloves (or, when mounted, dark blue riding
breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs); for all officers
of the line: a similar uniform except that chapeau and sash belong to
the higher rank, and that f. d. trousers are worn; for staff officers: a
uniform similar to that of the major general commandant excepting there
is no sash and that shoulder knots and aigulets are worn instead of
epaulets; for leaders and all members of the band (to be worn on
occasions of indoor functions at which the band has to play, or other
special occasions when ordered): special f. d. coat, special f. d.
trousers, special f. d. cap, sword with f. d. sword knot and belt
(leader only), shoulder knots (leader only), white gloves and black
leather shoes.

=Special full dress cap=—(=marine corps=) for leader of the band, of
blue cloth, same pattern and style as f. d. cap of officers of the line.
For second leader and musicians, of scarlet cloth, same model as f. d.
cap of other enlisted men.

=Special full dress coat=—(=navy=) for officers: a full-buttoned,
double-breasted c. of dark blue cloth, lined with white silk serge,
waist descending to top of the hip bone, the skirts commencing at about
one-fourth of the circumference from the middle of the front edge and
descending four-fifths of the distance from the hip bone to the knee
with two large navy buttons on the waist behind and one near the bottom
of each fold or plait; two rows of large navy buttons on the breast, 9
each; standing collar with V opening; the collar and cuffs covered with
gold lace, braid, bands of colored cloth, etc., as prescribed in
regulations according to rank of officer, and with appropriate epaulets,
etc.; (=marine corps=) for leader of the band, a sack c. of scarlet
cloth made after the same pattern as prescribed for first lieutenant
marine corps, except no opening for sword; the front edges, around
bottom, vents and sleeves trimmed with 1¼ in. flat gold braid, backed
with ⅛ in. gold tracing braid; collar similarly trimmed; gold tubular
braiding across breast in the same manner as prescribed for first
lieutenant, with gold crochet buttons and olives; seams between side
body and backpart trimmed with 2 rows of gold tubular braid; other
details as prescribed. For second leader of band, the same, except that
the cuffs are trimmed with black mohair braid. For musicians of band, a
fly-front sack c. of scarlet cloth, cut half close, standing collar of
black broadcloth piped with white, pointed cuffs ditto, shoulder straps
ditto; edges, bottom and vents trimmed with 1 in. black mohair braid
backt with ⅛ in. black mohair tracing braid, side body seams trimmed
with black mohair tubular braid; fronts trimmed with black mohair
tubular braid, 5 across, terminating in frogs, olives, etc.; otherwise
as prescribed.

=Special full dress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general
commandant, of dark blue cloth, cut with medium spring, side pockets,
outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. gold lace with a 3–16 in. scarlet silk
stripe thru center; for staff officers, the same without scarlet stripe;
for line officers, of sky-blue cloth, outseams trimmed with 1½ in. gold
lace with edges of scarlet cloth welted ¼ in.; for leader of band, of
dark blue cloth, the same as prescribed for staff officers, outseams
trimmed with 1¼ in. flat gold braid. For second leader and musicians,
the same except a 1 in. stripe of scarlet cloth down outer seams.

=Special patrolman’s uniform=—(New York) a double-breasted sack coat of
gray cloth reaching halfway to knee, buttoning close to throat with 5
buttons, no outside pockets. Trousers to match with a red welt on outer
seam. Overcoat, of same color, double-breasted sack style, reaching 3
inches below knee, closing with 6 buttons (2 rows), with rolling collar.
Cap, navy pattern of same color. In summer, uniform may be of gray
flannel.

=Special sale=—an advertising makeshift when goods move slowly or times
are dull.

=Special uniforms=—thruout the military and naval services of the United
States, whenever on occasions of ceremony officers of these services are
required to appear together in uniform, as prescribed under designations
Uniform A, Uniform B, and Uniform C, which see.

=Specialty mark=—(=navy=) an embroidered device forming a part of the
rating badge (qv), indicating occupation of the wearer, as master at
arms, boatswains mates, blacksmiths, yeomen, printers, etc.

=Specie bag=—a medium-sized strong leather hand b., carried by bank
messengers.

=Spectacle case=—a c. for holding and protecting spectacles when not in
use. See Eyeglass holder.

=Spectacles=—a device for aiding eyesight—a pair of lenses attacht to a
metal bridge and hinged bows, the latter usually curved to hook around
the ears, tho formerly made to clasp the temples; the lenses sometimes
enclosed in a frame or rim.

=Spence cotton=—a variety of c. grown in India, having a strong, wiry
staple of 1 to 1¼ inches in length, the “trees” producing it frequently
attaining a hight of 6 to 7 feet.

=Spencer=—a short, scant, top coat not covering the undercoat, invented
by Lord Spencer, about 1792, on a bet that he could set a fashion,
wholly meaningless and unnecessary, that would be the vogue within six
months. He then took shears and amputated the tails of the coat he was
wearing and appeared in it on the street. Being a leader of fashion, the
idiosyncrasy spread within a week and in a few months reached America.

=Spent tan=—roughly ground tanbark from which the tannic acid has been
extracted by infusion.

=Spick-and-span=—new, fresh, clean, tidy; showing off one’s glad rags.

=Spiff=—clerk’s slang for premium or bonus.

=Spinage=—long whiskers.

=Spindle=—(1) a slender rod in a spinning wheel carrying thread which is
to be twisted and wound on bobbins; (2) a rod used in hand spinning on
which is wound the thread from the distaff.

=Spinning=—the process of drawing out and spinning textil fibers into
thread, either by hand or machinery; a process in woolen manufacture by
which the drawn fleece or yarn is twisted into yarns or threads of
required thickness, technically known as “counts”, according to the
fabrics for which intended. As spun, the yarn is wound onto large
bobbins for warp or on to smaller spools for weft. Practically the same
for other fibers. See Encyclopedia.

=Spinning jenny=—see Jenny.

=Spinning mule=—see Mule.

=Spitalfields=—a district of London, England, noted specially for its
silk weaving industries; the name is also applied to silk goods
therefrom, as a mark of quality.

=Spladder dashers=—one of the old forms of “spatterdash” (qv).

=Splay-footed=—toes turning outwardly.

=Spliced=—generally, a makeshift extension. See Crotch piece, Wheel
piece, etc.

=Spliced heel=—trade term for hosiery with the heel made much heavier
than the body of the stocking, usually spoken as s. heels-and-toes. See
Double sole.

=Split falls=—same as Narrow f.

=Split foot=—trade term for stockings whereof the underfoot part is
knitted separately from the upper or leg part, altho these may be
seamlessly joined with practically the same motion or reciprocal
interchange of loops, or otherwise. See English f.

=Split patterns= (=to=)—tailoring term for the operation of first
drafting a pattern according to the subject’s actual measurements, then
splitting it open from top to bottom, and inserting an allowance for a
superfluous amount of goods for ease and style, a new pattern being
usually drafted from the split one.

=Split straw=—(1) hat s. split into narrow strips; (2) hats of such
straw (usually “yacht” shapes).

=Split tree=—a shoe t. divided longitudinally and expanding when placed
in position.

=Splits=—weaving term for cloths woven with a center selvaged motion, so
that when the piece is taken from the loom the wide fabric can be split
into two or more practically perfect cloths; in weaving designated one
s., two s., etc.

=Sponge=—general term for (1) the process of extra-shrinking fabrics
preparatory to manufacturing into garments; see Shrink; (2) the act of
lightly cleaning a slightly soiled garment with a damp sponge before
pressing it.

=Sponge=—a fibrous and porous substance from the sea-depths, the
framework of a marine animal.

=Sponge bag=—a light rubber or waterproof fabric b. for use of
travelers, designed to hold bathing sponges.

=Sponge silk=—a soft, porous, knitted fabric of low grade spun silk,
used for underwear, draperies, polishing cloths, etc.

=Sponging=—see Sponge.

=Spongy=—trade term for cloths, such as raincoatings, which have lost
their firmness and finish and have become open, soft or porous; also
applied to cloths imperfectly fulled or finisht.

=Sporran=—a leather or fur purse or pouch worn in front of the kilt by
Highlanders in clan dress.

=Sporting tailor=—one who makes a specialty of, and whose business
consists largely if not entirely of the making of hunting, golf, polo,
motoring garments and clothes for “sporting” wear generally.

=Sportsman’s knife=—a pocket k. having numerous conveniences in the way
of blades, etc., especially a k. with an extra long blade for skinning
hides, etc.

=Spot delivery=—immediately.

=Spread front folder=—a folded shirt collar, the ends of which are
broadly rounded or cut away.

=Spring=—a belled or flaring effect.

=Spring bottom trousers=—same as ordinary t. except that the bottoms
flare out over the foot.

=Spring buckle=—a buckling device consisting of two pronged buckles
connected by coiled wire springs, used on some trousers, overalls,
suspenders, etc.

=Spring button=—a “snap” or “clasp” fastening.

=Spring heels=—term for shoes made without h. and worn by boys and
children, the outer sole being sprung outward slightly at the heel and a
small wedge of leather inserted between the outer sole and the innersole
at the heel of the shoe before it is finally attacht by nailing.

=Spring mink=—m. caught in the spring, when the fur begins to
change—naturally of quality inferior to winter-caught m.

=Spring needle=—term given to underwear knitted on round frames by means
of a peculiar kind of n. so that the fabric is particularly elastic or
springy.

=Spring tree=—see Extension t.

=Spring weight=—in the cloth trade suitings of 11 to 15 ounces and
overcoatings of 16 to 22 ounces are so called. Compare Winter w., Summer
w., Fall w., Tropical w.

=Sprinting pants=—see Athletic p.

=Sprinting shoes=—see Running s.

=Spruce=—kind o’ nice; dapper.

=Spun silk=—trade term for (1) floss, damaged cocoons, husks, waste,
etc.; (2) s. yarns, fabrics, etc., from waste s. and damaged cocoons.

=Spun silver=—s. thread for weaving, especially a fiber thread covered
with a s. filament.

=Spunk seed=—see Wig.

=Spur=—a heel-thing worn by men-brutes to jab into horses.

=Spy glass=—a small telescope for ship or field use.

=Squam hat=—a round h. of oiled waterproof material, made with a stiff
crown and stiff rim, with ear tabs buttoning under the chin, worn by
fishermen, seamen, etc. Compare Cape Ann h.

=Square=—see Tailor’s s.

=Square shouldered=—shoulders high and set well back.

=Square-toe=—a shoe made somewhat square at the t. as compared with a
round or oval shape.

=Square-toes=—an old-fashioned, punctilious person.

=Squaring=—in hat making, the act of coating or saturating the inside of
the crown with a solution of shellac for the purpose of hardening.

=Squash hat=—a low crowned soft felt h.

=Squirrel=—a small tree-living animal, the fur of which is highly prized
for winter garments.

=Squirt=—dude.

=Stable cap=—a round c. with a visor, usually of material to match the
groom’s suit, as whipcord, corduroy.

=Stable suit=—groom’s sack s. of whipcord. See Livery undress.

=Stall=—see Finger cot.

=Stamin=—a variety of linsey woolsey (obsolete).

=Stampt gloves=—die cut. Compare Table cut. (=Stamped-g.=)

=Stand-and-fall collar=—same as standing Prussian c.

=Stand-up=—same thing.

=Stander=—colloquial for a standing (shirt) collar.

=Standing band=—a sort of linen collar or neckdressing; obsolete. See
Falling b.

=Standing Prussian collar=—a P. c. made on a high band and turned over;
also called Russian c.

=Stanley helmet=—a light h. of pith, covered with pongee silk, having a
sweat band set out from the body of the hat by rigid arms, thus allowing
a circulation of air.

=Staple=—the fiber of any material, as long or shortstaple wool, cotton,
etc.

=Staples=—merchandise that is always salable, thruout the year, not
materially affected by vagaries of fashion, as plain black and blue
cloths and garments thereof, handkerchiefs, white dress shirts, black
hosiery, etc. Staples are seldom reduced or included in special sales.
Compare Fancies and Novelties.

=Start-up=—a coarse, heavy sort of buskin, worn up to almost 1800.

=Station coat=—a slip-on overcoat for riding, driving or motor wear,
made single-breasted, buttoning close to the neck, with a sort of
Prussian collar, lined thruout as usual except the skirt, which is
unlined.

=Stay tape=—narrow, white linen or cotton t. used by tailors for
reinforcing edges, seams, etc.

=Stays=—straps attacht to the bottoms of pantaloons, passing under the
foot.

=Stays=—corsets.

=Steam=—to sponge or shrink (qv); to remove bloom or gloss.

=Steam shrunk=—sponged or shrunk by being past thru perforated steam
cylinders; the opposit of cold water or London s. (qv).

=Steamer rug=—see Rug.

=Steamer trunk=—a low, flat t. that can be slipt under a stateroom
berth.

=Steinkirk=—a cravat (1674–1742) loosely folded, tied or twisted, with
ends caught in a buttonhole of the coat.

=Stem-winder=—a keyless watch.

=Step=—tailor’s term for the lower edge of the notch in lapel of coat or
waistcoat collar.

=Step-back=—tailoring term for frock coats made without plaits in the
back skirts, the back parts of the coats being continuous as usual, but
that on the left side being extended or stept-out 1½ to 2 inches at the
waist line (showing an L angle), and lapt over the other skirt, both
sides of the skirts being creast as usual down from where the sidebody
is joined to the back part. In some overcoats the step is often 3 inches
or more wide.

=Stephanotis=—a perfume derived from or imitating the odor of a plant of
the jasmin family.

=Sterling=—trade designation of silver of 925–1000 fineness.

=Sticharion=—a vestment worn by sub-deacons in the Greek and Russian
churches; a sort of dalmatic (qv) but narrower and shorter than the
similar garment worn by deacons.

=Stick-pin=—same as Scarf p.

=Stick-up collar=—British for a standing shirt c.

=Stick-up-turned down=—British for the highband, folded or double shirt
collar.

=Sticking plaster=—a surgical adhesiv p. composed of resin and litharge
in the proportion of 1 to 5, coated on cotton; familiar to foot-ballists
and other sports.

=Stiff front=—trade term for coats made with considerable heavy
haircloth workt stiffly into the front parts.

=Stiffening=—a process in hat manufacture whereby the cones after sizing
are given a firmness by means of a solution of shellac in alcohol.

=Stiletto beard=—a long, sharp imperial (qv).

=Stint rule=—see Task system.

=Stirrup hose=—woolen or cloth over-hose for riding wear (17th and 18th
centuries) made as much as two yards wide at the top and edged with
eyelet holes by means of which they were fastened to the breeches or
girdle.

=Stitches=—as used in garment making, may be classified as back s.,
back-and-fore s., bar-tack s., basting s., button s., buttonhole s.,
chain s., cross s., crow’s-foot s., drawing s., felling s., fine drawing
s., French felling s., padding s., prick s., private s., rentering s.,
running s., serging s., side s., stoating s., etc., which see.

=Stoat=—see Stoating.

=Stoating=—in tailoring the process of joining two pieces of material
together either at a point where a seam is not desired, or instead of a
seam, where thinness is the object. The material is placed edge to edge
and the stitch nearly penetrates thru to the underside, the needle
entering one piece and leaving the other at equal distances from the
join, say ¹⁄₁₆ of an inch on either side and about the same distance
apart, the thread being stretcht taut. When carefully done the join is
barely visible.

=Stock=—originally a made-up, stiffly folded cravat of linen or silk,
wrapt twice around the neck, the neck part usually with a metal spring
attacht to keep it in place when worn.

=Stock=—the merchandise in store for sale.

=Stock boy=—in wholesale houses a young devil who bothers the traveling
salesmen to take him “on the road” as assistant, and sometimes becomes a
traveler and is particularly bedeviled in turn; or, in retail and other
houses one with similar duties and proclivities.

=Stock covers=—lengths of hickory shirting or other stuff that ought to
be thrown over the stock at night.

=Stock number=—see Lot n.

=Stock-room=—a loft where reserve stocks of merchandise are housed.

=Stock whip=—a herder’s whip having a short handle with a very long lash
with snapper.

=Stockinet=—(1) an elastic textil made on a knitting frame, usually
cotton, and having a fleeced back which may be of wool, used for
undergarments, etc.; (2) a heavy elastic, close-woven material, usually
white, from which livery breeches are made.

=Stocking=—a covering for the foot and lower part of the leg,
close-fitting, elastic and usually knitted of wool, cotton or silk,
especially such as reach to the knee in contradistinction to sock or
half hose.

=Stocking frame=—(1) a machine for knitting stockings; (2) any knitting
machine.

=Stocking saver=—a soft leather heel cover with instep strap, for wear
inside of shoes.

=Stocking yarn=—loosely spun, coarse, woolen y. for heavy socks, hoods,
mittens, etc., designed for hand knitting.

=Stockinger=—a knitter or weaver of stockings; a hosier (obsolete.)

=Stockingless=—having or wearing no stockings. You’ve heard of Hon.
“Sockless” Jerry Simpson?

=Stogy=—(n) a coarse, stout boot or shoe. (Colloquial.)

=Stogy=—(adj) heavy; coarse; clumsy.

=Stole=—an ecclesiastical vestment; a long, narrow strip of the same
material as the chasuble, with one to three crosses embroidered upon it
with other elaborate decoration; worn as a symbol of priestly
jurisdiction, in the administration of all the sacraments, at mass, etc.
At mass the priest wears it crost over his left breast, the deacon over
his left shoulder; at other times hanging straight down.

=Stone marten=—the beach m.; fur largely used for winter garments.

=Stonine=—a white, marble-like composition used for shirt studs, cuff
buttons, etc., for evening dress wear.

=Stoop shouldered=—having roundish shoulders with a forward inclination.

=Store=—a place where you buy things.

=Store clothes=—readymade; not homemade.

=Storm boot=—an extra high-cut lace shoe, usually blucher model, and of
stout leather, commonly waterprooft.

=Storm coat=—a rainproof c.; a mackintosh; an ulster.

=Storm collar=—in tailoring (1) a separate, large, standing c. or
muffler, usually of fur, for rough outdoor wear, used over overcoats;
(2) a deep ulster c.

=Storm hat=—a sou’wester.

=Storm hood=—a sort of sou’wester with a cape all around.

=Storm-proof=—said of viscolized or oil-drest tramping boots or shoes;
of rainproof overcoatings, etc.

=Storm serge=—differing from other serges chiefly in being heavier and
in having the bloom or high finish removed by steaming.

=Storm tabs=—straps or short belts attacht to overcoat or ulster sleeves
at the wrist for purpose of closing the opening against the weather.

=Stormer=—an ulster (qv).

=Stote=—see Stoat.

=Stouts=—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit
corpulent persons or those with waist more than normal or the same as
the breast measure. Compare Short s., Long s. and Extra s.

=Stove-pipe=—a silk hat.

=Straight=—one of the old names for kersey (qv).

=Straight box=—trade term for coats cut with straight side seams and
full backs without center seams.

=Straight collar=—trade term for coat collars made with a straight
under-line and without excessive paring of the neck of the garment as in
the case of horseshoe c. (qv). This style c. is best made by hand and is
a characteristic of fine tailoring, distinguisht for fitting the neck
closely and neatly.

=Straight front sack=—a s. coat not rounded or cut away at the bottom
corners, but hanging straight down.

=Straight front single-breasted frock=—same as s. b. frock, and s. b.
“Prince Albert.”

=Straight jacket=—a garment unfortunately little used outside of insane
asylums.

=Straight lace=—trade term for regular style laced shoes or Balmorals,
distinguishing them from the flapt or Blucher style laced shoe.

=Straight stander=—a plain, standing shirt collar.

=Straightening=—in clothes manufacture the operation of trimming the
edges of coats after being underprest.

=Strand=—a fiber, warp or weft yarn, string, etc.

=Strap=—tailoring term for (1) that part of a coat embraced in strap
measurement (qv); (2) in an evening dress coat an L shaped extension of
the skirt to the point of the front of forepart, forming a waistline
seam therewith.

=Strap ends=—that part where boot (or shoe) straps are sewed into the
boot (or shoe).

=Strap measure=—tailors’ term for the measurement taken from bottom of
arm scye, over the front of shoulder, to seam on top where the back part
is joined.

=Strap seam=—in tailoring the two parts are first joined by a plain or
regular s. and prest open as usual, after which a strip of material is
basted over the face of the s. and then stitcht.

=Strapt trousers=—having straps and buckles affixt to bottoms, passing
beneath arch of shoe. (=Strapped.=)

=Straw=—cattle feed used in making summer hats.

=Straw cotton=—c. thread especially prepared for sewing straw, as in hat
making.

=Straw hat=—worn only from June 1st to September 1st. Specially
designated as alpine, boater, mackinaw, milan, panama, sennit, yacht,
etc., which see.

=Straw needle=—a long, slender n. used in straw hat making.

=Strawberry blonde=—red haired.

=Street covert=—a top coat.

=Street gloves=—g. of heavy leather. Compare Dress g.

=Street railway conductor’s uniform=—varies with different roads and in
different cities; most commonly a sack suit of dark blue cloth, the coat
double-breasted in winter and single-breasted in summer, with an extra
number of pockets very strongly made and re-enforced with cloth around
the openings, which are slasht or without flaps, brass buttons; blue
cloth cap with numbered badge.

=Strength test=—(silk thread) pure dye silk thread running 800 hundred
yards to the ounce should be about 8 pounds strength; 1000 yards to
ounce breaking at 6 to 6½ pounds, etc.

=Strength tester=—any machine or device for testing the strength of
fibers, yarns, fabrics, etc.

=Stretch=—tailoring term signifying joining a smaller to a larger part;
stretching an edge to more than its cut dimension, etc., for purposes of
shapeliness, style, etc. Compare Hold in.

=Stretch block=—a wooden or metal device, a sort of last operated by a
screw, used by hatters to stretch hats to larger sizes.

=Stretcher=—same as Litter (qv).

=Stretching=—a process in hat manufacture, following stiffening (qv) and
preceding blocking (qv).

=Stride=—the fork or crotch seam of trousers.

=Striking bag=—same as punching b.

=Striking bag gloves=—see Punching b. g.

=String out=—said of silk fabrics the warp and weft of which, in wear,
slip or slide aside or pull, leaving unsightly spots.

=Stripes=—see Trousers s.

=Stripes=—cant for prison clothes (qv).

=Stripy=—trade term for harsh, inelastic, non-curly wool fleece, used
only for inferior goods.

=Stroke coat=—same as golf coat, tho a more appropriate name.

=Strop=—see Razor s.

=Stubbed=—shortened, abbreviated. (Tailoring.)

=Stubbed back=—tailoring term for a frock coat having a back which is
cut across at the waist line and having the plaited part of the skirt
(which may be closed or open-lapt) sewed thereto. Compare Frock b.,
Whole b., Step b., False b., Skirt, etc.

=Stubble=—sign that a shave is needed.

=Stud holes=—small round eyelets workt into a shirt bosom.

=Student cap=—same as mortarboard or Oxford c. (qv).

=Studs=—shirt bosom jewelry.

=Stuft leather=—leather filled with oil or other greasy liquid for a
specific purpose, as waterproofing.

=Stump=—a pointed roll of paper, felt or chamois used by artists in
blending drawings and by actors in blending the grease paints used in
making up.

=Stumpt=—said of frock coat back parts that are not continuous but are
cut across at the waist line and then continued therefrom in the skirts.
(=Stumped.=)

=Style=—a will o’ the wisp that men chase quite as assiduously as women;
the touch of la mode that wanes ere it is recognized; a something as
insubstantial as the favor of rulers, as light as the air, as protean as
a hurricane, and fickle as a woman who knows her beauty and how to use
it; a leading pursuit of the frivolous and wealthy and a Godsend to
merchants and manufacturers.

=Style-book=—a pictorial eulogy of the sartorial abilities of the
publishers, which, if deficient, can be glost over by a clever writer
and a cleverer artist.

=Styler=—one who designs or advises as to styles, patterns, etc., for
manufacturers of articles of apparel.

=Stylish=—in the current mode; not last season’s; popular; a common
adjectiv in Grand street.

=Stylist=—see Styler.

=Styptic pencil=—an antiseptic healer of cuts, popular with
self-shavers. Also called S. stick.

=Sub=—affectionate for substitute, an extra or temporary clerk.

=Subbing=—helping out or taking another clerk’s place temporarily; doing
other than one’s regular work.

=Subfusk=—dusky or dull of hue; of a dark but indefinable color.

=Substitute=—see Sub.

=Substitute=—something otherwise than as ordered.

=Substitution=—an ineradicable evil.

=Suede=—glove leather from which the face cuticle has been removed by
shaving and pumicing, the flesh or inner side of the skin forming the
outside of a glove and having a soft, velvety or ooze finish; “undrest
kid”.

=Sugar loaf=—a high, silk hat, narrowing toward the top.

=Suint=—see Yolk.

=Suit=—(1) coat, waistcoat and trousers; (2) undershirt and drawers; (3)
pajama blouse and trousers; (4) bathing trunks and shirt, etc.

=Suit bag=—a style of hand luggage of great capacity, shaped somewhat
like a s. case, but opening from a common center-hinge into two equal
parts.

=Suit case=—a long, flat, rectangular traveling bag or portmanteau,
usually of leather, of such size that coats, trousers, etc., may be
carried therein with the least amount of folding.

=Suit case umbrella=—an u. with a folding rod or a detachable handle,
effecting a reduction in length, enabling the u. to be carried inside
the case.

=Suit club=—an association of deluded persons who agree to pay into a
common fund (usually held by the organizer of the club, who conducts all
its affairs, more or less to his own or only benefit), a fixt sum per
week. A drawing by lot determins who shall get his suit that week, after
which, ordinarily, he pays no further dues; and so on until the last man
gets his suit, of course by paying more than anyone else, altho he may
believe that he is paying no more than the clothes are worth, by reason
of specious arguments about quantity-buying advanced by the plausible
organizer of the club, the inducement to all the members being the
element of chance, or rather prospect of being among the earliest and
least taxt buyers. Of course, there are occasionally formed clubs where
all members pay the same amount from first to last, there being no
pecuniary inducement beyond the easy payment plan and the possibility of
being an early winner. The first form of s. c. has repeatedly been
declared illegal by the courts but is hard to suppress, despite the
exemplary punishment meted out to the offenders.

=Suit-coat=—tailor’s term for distinguishing a garment so markt as part
of a suit order, and not a complete order in itself.

=Suit of hair=—a head of hair. (Southern colloquialism.)

=Suit-pants=—see S.-coat.

=Suit-vest=—see S.-coat.

=Sulfuric acid test=—(cotton vs. linen). After having been freed from
the finishing materials the sample of cloth is treated for one or two
minutes in concentrated English sulfuric-acid, then rinsed well in
water, and dried between blotting-papers. Cotton is completely dissolved
in this treatment; linen remains unaffected. This test is suitable for
colored goods, and by weighing the samples before and after treatment
the quantity of each material can be approximated.

=Sumac=—any shrub or tree of the genus rhus; the bark thereof used in
tanning.

=Summer garters=—g. specially for wear with knee drawers, having no
metal parts to come in corrosiv contact with moist flesh.

=Summer undress=—(=marine corps, etc.=), see Undress, White dress, Field
dress, et var.

=Summer weight=—in the cloth trade suitings of 11 to 14 ounces are so
known. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Fall w., Tropical w.

=Sun test=—see Exposure t.

=Sun umbrella=—an u. usually of cotton material, of tan or buff color
outside and with a green or blue inside, the lining color being printed.

=Sunday-go-to-meeting-clothes=—the best one has.

=Sunshade=—a sun umbrella (qv).

=Sunshade hat=—a collapsible h. of light-weight cotton material having a
very long and wide brim stretcht on wire; used by amateur fishermen.

=Super=—see Wool.

=Superfine=—the finest grade of dress broadcloths.

=Superlative measures=—a system of tailors’ measurements embracing
features of both long and short measure systems, with which, for
comparison, the former may be considered the allopathic, the
latter homeopathic, and the superlative eclectic schools of
clothes-prescribing.

=Supporter=—(1) a contrivance for holding up some portion of one’s
apparel, as garters, braces, etc.; (2) a surgical or hygienic appliance
for holding in place or assisting localized physical weaknesses, as a
laced waistband with an underpart reaching thru the crotch from front to
back to support the parts.

=Suppression=—tailoring term indicating close-shaping of the waist, as
of a coat.

=Surah=—a soft, fine twilled, silk fabric, usually plain dyed.

=Surcharged=—weighted; loaded in dyeing and finishing.

=Surcoat=—(1) a long c. or cassock worn over a vest or undercoat; (2) a
loose robe worn over armor, in the middle ages.

=Surgeon’s gown=—a long, plain g., completely enveloping the figure,
closing at the throat, with draw strings or elastics in the cuffs, with
or without hood; usually of white cotton material.

=Surgeon’s plaster=—see Sticking p.

=Surplice=—a garment of linen worn by all clerics and assistants in
choir and by priests in the administration of the sacraments. Also
called cotta.

=Surtout=—an overcoat made in the style of a frock coat; a Newmarket
(qv).

=Surveyor’s boot=—see Prospector’s b.

=Suspender button=—one of the petty annoyances of men living in single
unblessedness.

=Suspenders=—devices for keeping one’s trousers neatly and modestly in
place.

=Suspensory=—an arrangement of straps and bag to sustain the scrotum.

=Swaddling clothes=—known since Moses’ time, at least.

=Swallowtail=—see Evening dress.

=Swanga-buckra=—a negro epithet for a well-drest white man.

=Swap=—when a prospectiv customer does not purchase he is said to have
given the salesman a “swap”; derivation of term unknown.

=Swathling clothes=—see Swaddling c.

=Swayback=—meaning that a man’s attitude tries to imitate Hogarth’s line
of beauty.

=Sweat lining=—in hats and caps usually a lining band of soft leather,
occasionally patent leather, or other material.

=Sweat shop=—in garment making a shop not owned by the manufacturer but
by a contractor, who pays low wages; a home shop where various members
of the family are employed; popularly a shop where disease and contagion
are supposed to be imminent if not actually existent, and where the
operators are virtual slaves for the sake of a pittance to buy bread.

=Sweatband=—see s. lining.

=Sweater=—a tight-fitting, ribbed, knitted jacket or shirt, of various
styles, as turtle neck s., coat s., V neck s., etc.

=Sweating=—a putrefactiv process in leather preparation for the purpose
of loosening hairs.

=Sweating system=—see Sweat shop.

=Swedish gloves=—see Suede.

=Sweet bags=—ornamental bags or pouches of perfume or aromatic
substances variously used by the beaux and belles of the romantic past.

=Swell=—a supposedly ultra-fashionable individual.

=Swelled seam=—(tailoring) the parts to be joined are basted face to
face along an outlet; this is sewed with a regular or plain s. (qv) at
the usual distance from the edge of the top piece, which is then turned
and stitcht again at the required distance from the first s. underneath
and then very lightly prest, giving the raised or swelled effect, which
is helpt by absence of any stitching holding the cloth down at the turn
of the s. Also called “raised s.” and “lap s.”; often mistakenly called
“welt s.” (qv).

=Swimming suits=—same as bathing s.

=Switch=—a riding whip.

=Swivel weaving=—in weaving, a process of achieving embroidered-like
effects on cloth, being effected by small auxiliary shuttles of colored
threads.

=Swop=—an unconsummated sale (retail slang).

=Sword belt=—a leather or canvas b. worn around the waist, supporting a
sword by straps.

=Sword cane=—a hollow walking stick with detachable handle, to which is
affixt a s. or dagger.

=Sword knot=—(=navy=) for officers, a strip of gold lace 24 inches long,
doubled, with a gold slide and surmounted at the end with a large gold
bullion tassel.

=Symmetricals=—bits of padding used by stage Venuses and Adonises.

=System=—a method of tailoring instruction for cutters, or learners; a
crank method for achieving misfits.

=Syndicate shop=—name given to any one of a chain of stores controlled
from an executiv center.

=$=—the idol of trade.


                                   T

=Tab=—to keep tally or count.

=Tab collar=—(1) a linen wing or piccadilly shirt c.; (2) any standing
shirt c. with sewed-on tabs thru which the scarf or tie is slipt and
held in place.

=Tabard=—a sleeveless or short-sleeved outergarment worn by knights over
their armor, commonly embroidered with the arms of the wearer; the
official costume of a herald or pursuivant.

=Table=—the upper part or flat face of a brilliant cut diamond or other
precious stone.

=Table cut=—trade term for gloves cut by hand, not stampt out from a
pattern or die, ensuring a better fitting glove.

=Tabs=—small flaps on shirt collars for holding scarf in place.

=Tack=—(1) the narrowest part of the back of a frock coat; (2) that part
where the skirts are joined; (3) the top of a vent.

=Tack stay=—in tailoring a slip of interlining material used in pocket
seams, etc., at the place where a tack (qv) is made, and for its support
or strength.

=Tacking=—in shoemaking the process of placing the vamp or upper on the
last and pulling it over and tacking it onto the leather innersole on
the bottom of the last; also called “pulling over”.

=Taffeta=—a light-weight, thin, plain-woven, glossy silk fabric, finisht
in a variety of ways: as plain dyed, changeable, warp-printed, brocaded,
etc.

=Taffeta flannel=—a plain woven, light-weight wool material, with
stripes, plaids and checks, effected by colored threads in warp and
filling, coat fronts and said to be nearly unshrinkable; used chiefly
for outing shirts, pajamas, etc.

=Taffeta weave=—see Plain w.

=Taffy=—a name once given to a watered variety of taffeta silk.

=Taffy=—blarney; soft palaver.

=Tag lock=—a tangled l., as of wool on unshorn sheep.

=Taglioni=—a style of overcoat fashionable in the 50’s.

=Tahiti pearl=—trade name for a very dark, nearly black, p. shell (and
articles thereof) from Tahiti.

=Tail=—a coarser grade of wool than “breach”; also called cow-tail.

=Tail-coat=—familiar term for any skirted c., but especially for evening
dress and cutaway frock coats.

=Tailor=—generally, any one in the business of making clothes;
specifically, (1) a shopkeeper who makes clothes to order and to
measure; (2) any workmen employed in the making of clothes, whether
journeyman t., presser, operator, bushelman, etc.

=Tailor-to-the-trade=—a clothing manufacturer who makes clothes to order
for agents or other tailors; largely a mail order business; often a
concern doing business under two to four or more names, so that
customers lost by one may be sold again (note double entendre) under
another name; in such cases usually located on a corner of two streets
and, if possible, in a named building, that several different real
addresses may be used.

=Tailor’s block=—a sort of stool on which the customer being measured
poses for the admiration of other waiting customers.

=Tailor’s braid=—any b. of silk or mohair, with a flat or corded edge,
used for binding or facing garments, etc.

=Tailor’s cramp=—a cramp in the muscles of the thumb and fingers, common
among tailors and other needle workers.

=Tailor’s goose=—a smoothing iron. See Goose.

=Tailor’s muscle=—the sartorius, a long, narrow muscle of the thigh,
that aids in flexing the knee, the longest muscle in the body; so called
from its use in crossing the legs, as with tailors.

=Tailor’s silk thread sizes=—see Appendix.

=Tailor’s spasm=—a nervous affection of the hand common to
needleworkers.

=Tailor’s square=—an L shaped measuring and drafting implement, markt in
inches and in fractional computations.

=Tailor’s tack=—a strong, ornamental finish at the ends of pockets,
vents, etc. See Crow’s-foot and Bar tack.

=Tailor’s trimmings=—trade term for linings, buttons, braids, thread and
all other “notions” required by tailors.

=Tailor’s twist=—the strong silk thread used in garment making.

=Tailorage=—the product or effect of the tailor’s art: as “a great
parade of tailorage.”

=Tailoring indicator=—a machine for ascertaining with exactness all
manner of measurements, proportions, disproportions, hight, weight,
position, etc., of the customer.

=Tailorize=—to clothe or fit as a tailor does.

=Tailoroid=—a gummy preparation in stick form intended for use on edges
that are to be felled for the purpose of preventing fraying and
blistering and to ensure smoothness, firmness and flexibility of
trousers and coat bottom hems, coat collars, etc. (Proprietary.)

=Taleth=—a praying shawl of white stuff, bordered with blue, worn by
Jews at their devotions.

=Take-in=—to make narrower, shorter, snugger. (Tailoring, etc.)

=Talisman=—see Amulet.

=Tall hat=—slang for silk h.

=Talma=—a long cape or cloak, sometimes hooded, worn in first half of
19th century; named after Francois Joseph Talma, a French tragedian.

=Tam o’ Shanter=—a broad, flat, knit woolen cap with a tassel in the
center (Scotch).

=Tampico=—Istle (qv).

=Tan=—to convert hides and skins into leather by chemical treatment.

=Tan bark=—any bark, as sumac, oak, hemlock, chestnut, etc., containing
tannic acid in sufficient quantity to be useful in tanning leather.

=Tan liquor=—(1) an infusion of tan bark in water; (2) any astringent
liquor used in making leather.

=Tan pickle=—same as T. liquor.

=Tan yard=—a tannery (qv).

=Tannery=—a place where hides and skins are tanned and made into
leather.

=Tap sole=—a half s. shaped like a slip s., but nailed or attacht to the
outside of a boot or shoe and reaching only to the arch, coming next to
the ground; not a whole s. See Slip s. Also called Napoleon s.

=Tapaderos=—among Mexicans a leather covering for the protection of the
feet.

=Tape line=—an inch measure. See next.

=Tape measure=—an article, usually of fabric, printed in inches and
fractions thereof, commonly 60 inches long and half an inch wide, used
by tailors, clothiers, et al., in taking measurements.

=Taped seam=—in tailoring a strong s. used in making garments from
insubstantial or easily frayed fabrics, specifically a strip of tape
laid under a s. and stitcht to same on both sides. Compare Silesia s.

=Tar=—a boy’s sailor cap.

=Tarboosh=—a red cap with tassel of dark colored silk, and sometimes
forming the inner part of the turban, worn by men in Moslem countries.

=Tarlatan=—of interest to men chiefly when worn by coryphees of the
ballet, or when employed to keep off mosquitoes at night.

=Tartan=—a Scotch plaid.

=Task system=—a peculiar Jewish s. of garment making. A “task” is so
many garments to a day’s work for a “team” or “set”, usually 3 to 5
people. This quota must be finisht and wages are reckoned upon it. If
but five tasks, for example, are finisht in six days, the team workers
get but five days’ pay; per contra, if they can do seven tasks in six
days, they get seven days’ pay. The task s. is really piece work and is
perhaps the most ingenious and effectiv engine or over-exertion known to
modern industry.

=Tattersall=—general trade name for loud or horsey patterns in heavy
woolen vestings; the name from the famous London horse market.

=Tatterdemalion=—a raggedy one.

=Tattoo=—to decorate the human epidermis with designs pricked in with
indelible dyes.

=Tawing=—a process in leather dressing in which the gelatin of the
fibers is combined with certain mineral salts.

=Tea basket=—a sort of folding hamper with fittings for coaching party
lunches, etc.

=Team process=—see T. work.

=Team work=—tailoring term, meaning practically the same as “Section w.”
(qv), but given to a lesser number or smaller team of operators to make
and finish and consequently costing a trifle more to execute. Employed
most generally in cheap tailoring, medium grade readymade, etc.

=Tear drops=—small pear-shaped side whiskers.

=Teasel=—a machine or contrivance for dressing cloth.

=Teasel cloth=—see Flannelet.

=Teaser=—a machine having rollers of various sizes studded with pins
which open the wool and intermix or blend it before carding or combing
and spinning.

=Teck=—a readymade imitation of the knot tied with a four-in-hand scarf.

=Teddy bear=—another fad in children’s clothing of a par in sanity with
Fauntleroy, Buster Brown, Brownie, Greenaway, and other eruptions.

=Teething ring=—a large r. of rubber, ivory, pearl, etc., worn attacht
to the wrist by a blue ribbon from the age of 5 or 6 months up.

=Teetsook=—a saddle-bag made of buffalo hide, from which the hair has
been removed; in use on the plains.

=Telegraph messenger’s uniform=—(=Western Union=): double-breasted
blouse with one outside (breast) pocket and Prussian collar, red cord
trimming, trousers to match; (=Postal=): single-breasted blouse, white
cord trimming.

=Telescope=—an article of hand luggage of two parts, each shaped like
boxes without covers, one sliding or telescoping into the other and held
together by straps; usually canvas-covered with leather trimmings.

=Telescope hat=—a flat topt, soft felt h., not creast in the middle like
a fedora h., but with a gutter all around the top of the crown.

=Tennis flannel=—see Outing cloth; also Flannel.

=Tennis hat=—a light felt h. of soft texture, usually of light colors,
worn in outdoor sports.

=Tennis robe=—a sort of dressing gown for wear between dressing room and
court or while resting, usually of flannel or other light material.

=Tennis shoe=—a low s. of soft leather or canvas, having rubber soles
and low or no heels.

=Tennis ulster=—same as t. robe (qv) but fashioned especially like an
overcoat or u. and always made of light-weight cloth or flannel.

=Tenterhook willey=—see Mixing picker.

=Tentering=—the process of stretching fabrics, during the operation of
finishing, so that they may dry evenly and of a specified width.

=Territory=—wool classification term. See Wool.

=Terry=—a pile fabric in which the loops are uncut; when of cotton or
linen, largely used for bath robes, bath towels, etc.

=Terry velvet=—v. with the pile uncut.

=Test=—any means or method of determining quality, strength, etc., of
any fabric or textil material, dye, etc. See Cotton t., Linen t., Wool
t., etc.

=Testimonials=—voluntary letters written by people who want to see their
names in print; sometimes written on request.

=Tete de negre=—textil term for “niggerhead” effects.

=Teufelsdroeckh=—the Herr Professor who enunciated a great theory of
clothes. Read (and enjoy) Sartor Resartus.

=Textil=—(a) of or pertaining to weaving or woven fabrics; (n) a woven
fabric or material suitable for weaving. (=Textile.=)

=Textil silk=—see Artificial s.

=Textil soap=—general term for s. used for (1) scouring raw wool; (2)
scouring yarns, and (3) scouring and fulling of cloth; of different
composition, according to the use intended.

=Texture=—the disposition, arrangement, character or quality presented
by the threads, filaments or other components of a woven fabric; as
loose t., firm t., coarse t., etc.; or in other words, a trade term
meaning size and number of threads per inch in a fabric.

=Thatch=—unkempt hair; unshaved face growth.

=Thermos bottle=—a device consisting of a glass bottle contained within
a vacuum enclosed by another bottle encased in metal, and suitably
sealed when in use, its peculiar properties being that boiling hot
liquids may be kept hot in the lowest temperature from 24 to 48 hours,
and ice-cold liquids kept cold in tropical weather equally long, making
the device of unusual value to tourists, the sick room, etc.

=Thibet=—a soft, smooth, compact, twill woven, woolen cloth, made of
wool or cotton warp with wool filling; more elastic and softer than
melton, not so nappy as cheviot, often made in imitation of unfinisht
worsted, and largely adulterated with shortstaple wool or shoddy;
commonly dyed black or navy blue.

=Thick-set=—a sort of stout velveteen or fustian used for working
clothes, etc.

=Thimble=—a metal shield worn on one finger by tailors, seamstresses and
others, in sewing, for pushing needles thru fabrics.

=Thong=—a slender strip of leather for fastening.

=Thong stitcht=—sewed with rawhide; usually employed in connection with
athletic gloves, etc.

=Thoraki=—a peculiar sort of sack-like bloomer trousers, usually of blue
cotton, very voluminous at bottom, the legs seemingly protruding thru
the corners, worn by Greek peasants.

=Thread-about=—weaving term, meaning that the warp or weft, or more
properly both, may be of alternate material, as cotton and linen, silk
and linen, silk and wool, cotton-and-wool, etc.

=Thread marks=—when a chopt (cut-out) garment is delivered to a
journeyman tailor or operator for making up, he first proceeds to sew
thru the two parts, only one of which is markt, with white (or black)
thread wherever the cutter has indicated pockets, buttons, seam lines,
etc., which when split apart leave both sides (which being cut in
duplicate were hitherto markt [in chalk] only on one piece) equally and
more permanently markt alike by bits of thread; these bastings, of
course, being removed as the garment is completed.

=Threadbare=—worn down to the warp; seedy.

=Three balls=—the arms of everybody’s uncle.

=Three-cockt hat=—see below.

=Three cornered hat=—a h. with brim turned up and fastened to side of
crown in three places; first worn in England during reign of William
III. Also called three-cockt h. See Continental h.

=Three-eighths=—see Wool.

=Three-seamer=—term used early in last century among English tailors
referring to coats made with three principal seams.

=Three-square hat=—same as three-cornered h.

=Throat point=—that part of the shoe where the vamp and the top come
together in front of the instep.

=Through-and-through=—see Thru-and-thru.

=Throwing=—the processes (winding, cleaning, doubling, twisting,
re-winding, reeling, etc.) of putting raw silk into the threads required
for the different kinds of weaving; these threads are known as singles,
tram, and organzine (qv).

=Throwster=—a worker in a silk mill.

=Thru-and-thru=—trade term for worsteds in which the pattern shows on
the back as well as the face; the opposit of backt cloth; specially
indicating finer quality. (=Through-and-through.=)

=Thru-lighting test=—(cotton vs. linen.) When a linen fabric is held
between the light and the eyes of the observer, it appears to be
striped; cotton cloth is uniform.

=Thrum=—(1) the fringe of warp threads remaining on a loom after the web
has been cut off; (2) coarse or waste yarn.

=Thumb cuff=—a metallic article of apparel carried by the police of some
cities, conferred upon the party honored by placing over his thumbs and
locking same together, being considered neater and more effectiv than
handcuffs.

=Thumb test=—a common method of testing the tensil strength of fabrics,
the material being taken in both hands and stretcht over the thumbs,
which are held close together, and act as a straining or breaking point.

=Tick mitten=—loose m. of stout ticking used by truck drivers, farm
laborers, etc.

=Ticket pocket=—see Change p.

=Ticking=—a stout, twilled cotton or linen material, with woven or
printed stripes, employed for tents, mattress covers, carpenters’
aprons, etc.

=Tidy=—neat.

=Tie=—see Wig.

=Tie clip=—see Scarf fastener.

=Tied-and-dried=—dyer’s term, indicating that the design or pattern has
been achieved by tying the material (silk or cotton cloth, etc.) tightly
into knots before immersion into the dye, which results in a solid
ground color, having peculiar designs where the dye was unable to
penetrate the t. spots.

=Tiftik=—Turkish for mohair.

=Tight roll=—trade term for umbrellas, usually with a light steel rod,
and covered with light-weight silk, designed to roll very closely or
tight. Also called “close r.”

=Tights=—(1) a skin-fitting garment, preferably of silk, largely worn by
actors and acrobats for facilitating action and displaying the form;
sometimes covering the body, but more commonly the legs; (2) a
tight-fitting undergarment.

=Tights=—one of the old names for knee breeches or “shorts”.

=Tile=—a hat; particularly, a tall silk h.

=Tillet=—a thin linen fabric stiffened with glue and used in the first
half of the last century as a stiffening for coat fronts, collars, etc.

=Tin=—used largely in weighting cheap silks.

=Tinsel braid=—any braid of finely spun metal threads, woven in a
variety of patterns, used for livery, uniforms, etc.

=Tinsel brocade=—see Brocade.

=Tip=—a protectiv or ornamental cap over the toe of a shoe.

=Tip printer=—one who prints hat tips (qv).

=Tippet=—(1) a long, knit, woolen scarf, worn as a muffler; (2) a fur
shoulder cape; (3) a shoulder scarf worn by clergymen in place of a hood
(see Amice).

=Titan braid=—see Hercules b.

=Tobacco pouch=—a small bag of soft leather, rubber or other material.

=Tobago=—a palm grown in the West Indies and tropical America, the
slender stems of which are used for walking sticks, etc.

=Toboggan cap=—a knitted, woolen c., usually all white or in bright
parti-colors, conical in shape, of various lengths, the apex finisht
with a tassel, the open-end being folded up one or more times until the
effect suits the mind and the head of the wearer; sometimes worn over
the ears.

=Toe plate=—(1) see shoe p.; (2) a brass or aluminum cap worn at the
outer edge of the toe of a shoe (as baseball s.) for protection.

=Toff=—vernacular for a flashy dresser; a dude. (British.)

=Toga=—an elliptical mantle, about 5 × 4 yards in size, worn doubled and
gathered on the left shoulder, so as to hang in broad folds—worn by the
old Romans.

=Togged to the nines=—nautical slang for an officer in full dress.

=Toggery=—clothes.

=Togs=—clothes.

=Toile=—French for fabric.

=Toilet=—the process of dressing.

=Toilet paper=—soft, thin, tender, manilla tissue p., readily soluble,
for use in water closets.

=Toilet soap=—s. with its constituent greases disguised by high
perfumes.

=Toilet water=—a dilute perfume.

=Toilinet=—a stout, closely woven, vesting material, usually of silk or
cotton warp with wool filling, plain or loom figured. (=Toilinette.=)

=Tom Astoner=—nautical slang for a gay, dashing fellow.

=Tommyhole=—the accommodation opening in front of a boy’s first pants.

=Toney=—good style; smart; good form.

=Tongs=—trousers or overalls of tow or nativ cloth, worn by farm
laborers in Colonial days; nickname for first long t. of boys of
Revolutionary times: similar to the pantaloons of 1820.

=Tongue=—a strip of leather, loose or partly or wholly attacht up the
sides, for closing the gap of a laced shoe. See Bellows t.

=Tonsorial=—of or pertaining to a barber.

=Tonsure=—the crown of the head shaven, leaving a surrounding fringe.

=Toorie=—the tassel on a Glengarry cap.

=Toothpick=—sometimes used in place of suspender buttons.

=Toothpick collar=—in tailoring a very slender or narrow coat c.

=Toothpick toe=—a very sharp-pointed t.—a shoe fashion now thankfully
out of mind.

=Top boots=—b. with high tops, straight or flaring, and frequently of
different color leather, sometimes richly decorated; worn by carriage
servants, jockeys, sportsmen, and formerly for ostentatious dress, as
part of military uniform, etc. See also Jack b.

=Top coat=—a light overcoat.

=Top hat=—a high silk h.; a “topper”.

=Top lift=—the outer or finishing layer of leather on the heel of a
shoe.

=Top piece=—the same.

=Top pocket=—a p. in trousers, the opening of which extends in a
diagonal line from a point midway between the two front waistband
buttons to a point on the side seam a few inches below the waistband.

=Top-shirt=—same as over-s.; a working s.

=Top side=—tailor’s term for the t. or upper part of a pattern, as the
t. part of a sleeve.

=Topper=—(1) a “top” or silk hat; (2) a top coat.

=Toppiness=—wool trade term for a sort of uneven felting of fibers at
the top of the fleece.

=Tops=—(1) the long, straight fibers of wool—term used during combing
process; (2) bundles of 1½ pounds of combed wool ready for spinning.

=Toque=—a knitted conical cap worn in Canada for tobogganing and other
winter sports.

=Torpedo beard=—a la Captain Kettle.

=Torrington=—a name given to cotton gloves of a special quality adapted
to military or similar use.

=Tortoise shell=—the epidermal plates of the carapace of a testudinate
reptil—or—in English—the shell or house of a sea turtle.

=Totem=—a red-skin’s “coat of arms”, the device being painted on the
breast. Each tribe and family have different “bearings”, which serve as
a name or designation. Generally, totems are representations of animals.

=Toupee=—a little tuft, curl or artificial lock of hair; the top of a
periwig; a small wig covering a bald spot.

=Toupee paste=—a gummy substance for making toupees adhere to the scalp.

=Tourist cap=—a round crown cloth c. with a visor and a band that may be
turned down, covering the back of the head.

=Tourist coat=—a double-breasted ulster, usually of rough Scotch goods
with the regular notcht or peakt collar instead of the typical ulster
collar (qv); worn with or without a belt.

=Tourist coating=—general term for heavy Scotch and novelty overcoatings
suitable for ulsters, tourist coats, etc.

=Tourist collar bag=—a b. with flat round bottom and soft sides closed
at top by draw strings, intended to keep collars clean in suit case,
trunk, etc. Usually made of leather and variously trimmed.

=Tourist strap=—an adjustably buckled leather strap, having snap buckles
on the two ends; used for carrying small luggage.

=Tourist suit=—a name sometimes given to a s. of tweed or similar goods
having a Norfolk jacket instead of a sack coat.

=Tourniquet=—a bandage with a screw or lever attachment, which when
applied to a wounded limb stops the flow of blood by external pressure.

=Tow=—inferior flax.

=Tow cloth=—old-time linen homespun.

=Towel=—(1) a cloth, usually of linen, for drying the person after
washing; (2) when saturated with ice water a most effectiv headdress for
the morning after.

=Town made=—trade term for fabric gloves cut and sewed much after the
manner of leather gloves.

=Tracer=—see Tracing wheel.

=Tracing wheel=—a small revolving metal w. with sharp teeth and a
suitable handle, used for tracing paper patterns, for making two or more
sheets of pattern paper adhere while being cut simultaneously, etc.

=Trade journal=—a daily, weekly or monthly periodical that essays to
represent some particular trade or industry.

=Trading stamp=—“something for nothing”, but like all such promises
never yet demonstrated; also a joke vehicle for cheap vaudevillians.

=Tram=—woof silk of two or more threads of raw silk slightly twisted.

=Tramp=—a wandering journeyman tailor; a near-hobo.

=Traps=—traveling luggage; personal possessions; movable property.

=Traveling hat=—see Crusher.

=Travers=—French textil term indicating weftwise stripes or ribs.

=Treble-milled=—sheared and finisht three times.

=Trees=—wooden lasts, for shape-retaining purposes, for boots, shoes,
gloves, etc.

=Trews=—the ancient Celtic form of “trousers”.

=Tricot=—a closely woven, double-twilled woolen cloth, constructed of
two sets of warp threads (one of which is frequently cotton) and one of
weft, the weave characterized by faint lines or ribs running either
warpwise or weftwise, usually plain dyed.

=Tricot flannel=—a coarse-woven, elastic f.

=Tricot long=—t. in which the rib runs lengthwise. See T.

=Trig=—spruce; fine.

=Trigger finger=—the forefinger of the right hand.

=Trilby=—a soft felt hat with a plush-like surface resembling the
old-fashioned “beaver”; in shape a sort of Alpine, but varying with
different makers and with the touches given it by individual wearers.
(1908.)

=Trimmers=—in clothing manufacturing, the various workpeople who match
up fabrics with linings, sewing silk, buttons, etc.

=Trimming buttons=—any b. used decorativly; more specifically, small
flat covered b. of from 10 to 24 lines in size, tho satin and velvet b.
up to 36 lines are also so called; also round and fancy shapes are so
called, tho little used in men’s wear.

=Triplicate mirror=—a m. of three sections (usually framed), connected
together and adjustable so that one may see himself in several positions
simultaneously.

=Trooper’s uniform=—see the various descriptions of army uniforms, under
Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., etc.

=Tropical weight=—trade term for suitings averaging 9 to 11 ounces to
the yard. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Fall w.

=Trousering=—any woolen or worsted fabric designed especially for
trousers, as fancy striped worsteds.

=Trousers=—bifurcated garments for the lower limbs; called “pants” by
“gents”; frequently assumed for the good of the service (?) by our
better halves. See Broad falls, Narrow falls, Evening dress t., Riding
t., Gaiter t., etc. Compare Breeches, Knickerbockers, Pantaloons, etc.

=Trousers=—see Dress t. (=army=); Dungaree t. (=navy=); Full dress t.
(=army, navy and marine corps=); Service t. (=army=); White t. (=army=);
Evening dress t. (=marine corps=); Undress t. (=marine corps=); Field t.
(=marine corps=); Special full dress t. (=marine corps=).

=Trousers stretcher=—a device for keeping t. in shape and wrinkleless by
means of tension—and there are many of such devices of varying shapes
and utility.

=Trousers stripes=—(=army=) for enlisted men: cavalry, yellow;
artillery, scarlet; infantry, white; engineers, scarlet, white piping;
ordnance, black, scarlet piping; post quartermaster sergeants, buff;
post commissary sergeants, cadet gray; hospital corps, maroon, white
piping; signal corps, orange, white piping; West Point service, buff.
All non-commissioned officers above rank of corporal wear stripes 1¼ in.
wide; corporals ½ in.; musicians and trumpeters 2 stripes each ½ in.
wide.

=Trowsers=—old spelling of trousers.

=Troy=—a town in New York where nearly all the collars, cuffs and shirts
of commerce are made.

=True lover’s knot=—a kind of double k. with two bows and two ends, as a
symbol of constancy or fidelity in love; a k. of ribbon given to be worn
in token of love and fidelity.

=Trunk=—an article of traveling luggage, of various shapes, sizes and
manufacture; and constituting the chief means of physical culture of
baggage smashers.

=Trunk breeches=—see T. hose.

=Trunk hose=—a kind of full breeches, extending to the middle of the
thighs, worn in 16th and 17th centuries; invented by James I to hide a
deformity of hip disease.

=Trunk strap=—an extra large, heavy, strong leather s. used when trunks
are frail or their locks unreliable.

=Trunks=—(1) an article of athletic apparel covering the loins and no
more, usually made of velvet and with an elastic waistband; (2) a jersey
for covering the body from the waist to the thighs, worn by swimmers,
athletes, etc. See Bathing t.

=Truss=—(1) a tight-fitting, padded jacket of 16th century; (2)
trousers; (3) drawers.

=Truss=—a metal or rubber spring or belt, with cushioned pad, bandages,
straps, etc., worn for preventing or reducing hernias.

=Try-on=—(n) an unfinisht garment ready for the tailor to fit to the
customer; (v) to shape, fit and adjust partly made garments to their
ultimate wearer.

=Tub=—trade term for washable.

=Tub washt=—term applied to wool fleece broken and washt, more or less,
by hand or machinery.

=Tubbing=—a salt water bath in the process of curing furs and leather.

=Tubular=—having the form of a tube, as shoelaces, braids, certain makes
of belts, etc.

=Tubular braid=—formed by uniting an even number of threads, half
running right to left, half left to right, crossing alternately over and
under the threads of the opposing group.

=Tuck=—a flat fold in a fabric; ask your wife to show you the difference
between a tuck and a plait.

=Tufftaffeta=—taffeta silk of the long ago (then much heavier than our
present-day taffeta) with velvet or plush tufts of nap or raised pile,
used for doublets and jerkins.

=Tump line=—the head-band of pack harness used by hunters, prospectors,
et al.

=Tunic=—a blouse gathered at the waist or allowed to hang free.

=Tunic=—(1) an undress military coat; (2) the tight-fitting jacket of
the British guardsmen.

=Tunic=—(1) a sort of shirt or blouse, reaching to the knees, with short
sleeves, usually fastened with a girdle, worn by the ancient Romans; (2)
the Greek chiton (qv).

=Tunicle=—a close-fitting vestment worn by sub-deacons, of the same
material as the chasuble, reaching to the sleeves and with tight
sleeves.

=Tunis hat=—a small cap once worn to distinguish a trade or profession.

=Turban=—(1) a plain cap without visor or brim; usually of velvet or
cloth; (2) an oriental head covering consisting of a sash, scarf or
shawl twisted about the tarboosh or cap; an innocent vanity of colonial
gentlemen, worn with banyan gown when the wig was removed at home, often
of velvet and other rich materials, high colored and fanciful.

=Turkish yarn=—y. made of the hair of the Angora goat; also called
camlet y.

=Turks’ satin=—see S. Turk.

=Turn-down collar=—see Prussian c.

=Turn list=—a l. kept in dull seasons, by some manufacturing concerns or
employers, of work to be done and of workpeople, so that the latter may,
each in his turn, be given his share of what work is on hand.

=Turn-over=—the turned-in extremity of trouser legs and sleeves. Compare
Turn-up.

=Turn-over collar=—same as Prussian c.

=Turn-up=—(1) the outwardly folded cuffs on the bottoms of trousers
legs; (2) the ordinary turned-under hem on ditto, which if folded up is
considered a sign of rain in London.

=Turncoat=—clothing terms are sometimes wofully prostituted.

=Turned sole=—a shoe without an inner s., the uppers of which are sewn
to a channel cut into the s. while turned inside out. When sewn, the
shoe is soaked in water until flexible and then turned right side out,
hence the name.

=Turner’s pants=—athletic trousers of light-weight flannel with foot
straps.

=Turniket=—see Tourniquet.

=Turnip=—slang for watch, especially the old-fashioned bulbous kind.

=Turnip pants=—trousers brought out during the late bicycle craze,
convertible from ordinary business trousers to cycling knickers and vice
versa. (Proprietary name.)

=Turtle neck=—term applied to knitted sweaters having an extra long
collar or n. which is turned down or folded over several times. Compare
V n.

=Tusseh silk=—a fine, brilliant s. fabric, very strong, woven from s.
obtained from the tusseh s. worm of India, bred on the jujube tree.

=Tuxedo=—see Dinner jacket.

=Tuxedo alpine=—a soft or a. hat for semi-formal dress wear, made of or
covered with silk.

=Tuxedo derby=—a d. hat for semi-formal dress wear, made of or covered
with silk.

=Tuxedo hat=—same as above. Also see Dress derby.

=Tweed=—general name for twill woven all-wool fabrics of soft open
texture, rather loose and coarse in appearance but of good weight,
having loom-made patterns in stripes, checks and plaids. Originally made
in Scotland, but now everywhere. See Waulking.

=Twentieth century cutting=—a style of diamond c. differing from
brilliant c. (qv) in not having a flat table or face, but with the crown
facets brought to a point for greater brilliancy.

=Twig=—a riding whip or crop.

=Twill=—any textil fabric in which the weft threads do not pass over and
under the warp in alternate succession, as in plain weaving, but
regularly in a varying arrangement as over one and under two, three,
four, etc. Technically known as two leaf, three leaf, four leaf t., etc.
See encyclopedia.

=Twilled=—woven in such manner as to produce lines or ribs diagonally or
across the surface of the fabric. See above.

=Twills=—old Scotch name for tweed.

=Twist=—English (trade) term for warp (qv).

=Twist=—see Buttonhole t.

=Twist stitch=—same as Cord s.

=Twist wig=—see Wig.

=Twisted=—tailoring term indicating that a coat sleeve, a trouser leg,
etc., is put in badly so as to shift sidewise out of line.

=Twisted=—same as damask or jowhir—read a technical work for description
of the process.

=Twists=—trade term for woolen and worsted fabrics woven of yarns that
are of two colors doubled and twisted together, giving a mottled
appearance to the pattern effect, as in Bannockburns, Drummond worsteds,
etc.

=Twitty=—mill term for uneven yarns.

=Two-hole=—trade term for buttons pierced with 2 holes or eyes.

=Two-piece vamp=—a v. composed of two pieces of upper leather.

=Two-year serge=—a specially good quality of serge featured by a large
tailoring firm in London, England, which guarantees it to give two
years’ wear, whence name.

=Tyrolean hat=—a sort of alpine or fedora h., soft felt, of a green
color, having the bow of the band behind and a feather flaunting
therein.


                                   U

=Ulster=—a long, loose, heavy overcoat for rough or cold weather wear,
usually double-breasted.

=Ulster collar=—a very deep c. made with an extra upward cut or notch at
the apex of the notch at the step, the purpose being that the coat may
be buttoned close up to the throat while the c. may be lapt over itself
and stand straight upward from the throat point, which is not possible
with any other style of c.

=Ultra=—extreme; verging on vulgarity; dangerously near being
contemptuous.

=Umbrel=—vernacular for umbrella.

=Umbrella=—an article of luxury and convenience with a penchant for
changing owners.

=Umpire’s mask=—a face guard of wire and leather, worn as a protection
against thrown or batted balls and pop-bottles; usually lighter than a
catcher’s m.

=Unbasted=—trade term for the process of sewing garments together
without the parts being previously basted together, and for the garments
so made; likewise applied to the workpeople who sew in this manner.

=Unclad=—unclothed.

=Uncle=—a custodian of overcoats and jewelry—per consideration.

=Under lining=—the inside lining inside or “back” of a vest.

=Under-part=—tailoring term for the lower or under side of a pattern, as
the under part of a sleeve.

=Under weight=—not up to sample (as of woolen fabrics not as heavy as
claimed); less than contract requirements.

=Underbasting=—in clothes manufacture, the operation of basting facings
and linings to the foreparts of coats as received from the underpressers
and straighteners.

=Underclothing=—those most intimate.

=Undercoat=—a body c.; a suit c.

=Undercollar=—tailoring term for the underside of a coat collar,
usually, but not necessarily, made of a different and softer cloth (vide
infra).

=Undercollar cloth=—a thin, pliable plain woven c. with little or no
inclination to ravel; a variety of melton or ladies-c.; used for working
the underside of coat collars.

=Undergraduate’s gown=—a long, loose g. of black stuff, ordinarily with
pointed sleeves.

=Underpresser=—a workman who does underpressing (qv).

=Underpressing=—in clothing manufacture, the act of taking a partly made
garment (as a coat in which the outer seams have been closed, pockets
fitted, interlinings and padding put in place, etc.) and subjecting it
to ironing under heavy mechanical pressure. Compare First p. and After
p.

=Undershirt=—a garment worn next the hide.

=Underside=—see Under-part.

=Undertaker’s cloth=—see Casket c.

=Underwaist=—a boy’s undergarment with buttons for holding up drawers,
trousers, etc.

=Undress=—in livery, whipcord service garments.

=Undress=—(=navy=) the prescribed attire for all ordinary occasions.
Generally designated blue u. and white u. For chief petty officers,
except bandmasters, officers’ stewards and officers’ cooks: blue flannel
or serge coat, and trousers, blue cap, white shirt and collar or blue
flannel shirt (blue flannel or serge waistcoat permitted; also clothing
that has been long in use as dress may be worn for undress); (white u.:
same as for dress). For bandsmen: blue u. coat, blue cloth trousers,
blue u. cap; (white u.: white coat and trousers, cap with white cover).
For all other enlisted men: blue overshirt, blue cloth or flannel
trousers, blue cap, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only);
(white u.: white u. jumper, white u. trousers, white hat, neckerchief,
knife lanyard (seaman branch only).

=Undress A=—(=navy=) the uniform to be worn when reporting for duty,
when serving on courts or boards and upon various occasions of ceremony.
Consists of—for all commissioned officers: frock coat, u. trousers
(white may be prescribed), blue cap (white cap or helmet if prescribed),
shoulder straps, sword and u. belt (except for chaplains), scarf, white
gloves; for midshipmen, warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same,
without shoulder straps.

=Undress B=—(=navy=) the same as “Undress A”, without sword or belt. To
be worn when calling on foreign officers other than commanding officers;
at informal day receptions; on the deck of a vessel going in or out of
port. (In hot weather white service dress may be ordered.)

=Undress belt=—(=navy=) for officers, a b. of plain black grain leather,
with mountings as per regulation.

=Undress breeches=—(=marine corps=) for officers, same as full dress b.

=Undress cap=—(=marine corps=) a c. similar to the full dress c., but ½
in. less in hight. For major general commandant: a 1½ in. band of
blue-black velvet; vertical 9 rows of 3 lines of ⅛ in. black silk
tubular braid from edge of band to top of c. in front, back and on each
side with a knot of 4 double loops of same braid on top of c.; a
chin-cord of gold wire attacht to marine corps buttons, the visor
ornamented with oak leaves embroidered in gold bullion, ornament of
corps device set in gold acorn leaves. For all other officers: the same
except that the band is of lustrous black mohair braid, the ornament to
be without the gold acorn leaves, and the visor unornamented. For
non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates: of dark
blue cloth, 3¼ in. high in front, 3 in. high behind, bell shaped crown,
1⅝ in. black patent leather visor dropt 60° from horizontal, enameled
leather chin strap; other details per specifications. For leader of the
band, same as prescribed for commissioned officers of the corps. For
second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men,
except that the c. is covered between welts with flat black mohair
braid. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other non-commissioned
officers. Summer u.: for leader of band, of white duck, same as
prescribed for commissioned officers; for second leader, drum-major and
musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men.

=Undress coat=—(=navy=) for bandsmen, a half-fitting single-breasted c.
of dark blue flannel with 7 gilt buttons, closing to the neck, standing
collar, the coat pipe-edged down the front, around the bottom, at base
of collar, shoulder straps, etc., with scarlet cloth; insignia as per
regulation. Same c. is worn by enlisted men in the marine corps.

=Undress coat=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all
officers: a sack c. of dark blue cloth, single-breasted, cut half close,
the side seams vented, standing collar (of dark blue velvet for major
general commandant), trimmed across breast with black mohair tubular
braid, black frogs and black stuft crochet buttons; trimmings, devices,
etc., as per regulations. Also a white c. of drill or duck,
single-breasted sack style, cut semi-fitting, with four outside patch
pockets, trimmed per regulations. For non-commissioned officers,
drummers, trumpeters and privates, a single-breasted sack c. of dark
blue flannel, cut half close without center seam in back, in length
reaching to the crotch, fastened with 7 marine corps buttons, standing
collar; the c. pipt down front, around the bottom, base of collar,
shoulder and sleeve straps with scarlet flannel, with other details as
prescribed. For summer u., a single-breasted sack c. of white linen of
same pattern and style as prescribed for field c. (qv), with brass
buttons. For leader of band, of dark blue cloth, cut and trimming the
same as prescribed for first lieutenant. For second leader of band, the
same as prescribed for enlisted men of the line, with exceptions in
trimming, etc. For musicians, same as prescribed for enlisted men of the
line. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other enlisted men. Summer
undress c. for leader, same as prescribed for commissioned officers of
marine corps; for second leader, drum-major and musicians, same as
prescribed for other enlisted men of the corps.

=Undress jumper=—(=navy=) same as dress j. (qv) but made entirely of
white, unbleacht drill, and with sleeves without fitting cuffs; worn as
prescribed for dress.

=Undress sword belt=—(=marine corps=) for all officers and leader of the
band “of fair leather, not stuft russet”, 1¾ inches wide, with
detachable slings to match, trimmings of dull bronze metal.

=Undress trousers=—(=navy=) of dark blue cloth or serge, with plain
seams.

=Undress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all
other officers, blue and white, as prescribed for full dress. For
non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, the same
as prescribed for full dress. For summer u., of white linen, as
furnished by Quartermaster’s department. For leader of the band, same as
prescribed for full dress for officers of the line. For second leader
and drum-major, same as prescribed for non-commissioned officers. For
musicians, same as full dress except a single ³⁄₁₆ inch welt of scarlet
cloth on outer seams. Summer u., for leader and all other members of
band, white linen as furnished by Quartermaster’s department.

=Undress uniform=—(=marine corps=) by officers: to be habitually worn on
duty, unless other u. is prescribed, when reporting for duty on or
appearing before courts or boards, and when calling upon officials of
our own or of a foreign service, or when associated with officers of the
navy who are in u. A or B or service dress; by enlisted men: habitually
on or off duty when other u. is not prescribed; by members of the band:
likewise. Consists of, for all officers: u. coat (blue or white), blue
or white u. cap (or white helmet), full dress or white trousers, sword
with white slings (or of leather if worn over blue coat), and u. sword
knot, white gloves, white standing collar (with blue coat), black shoes;
when mounted: dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black
boots with spurs; at drills and exercises, on marches and in the field,
white gloves may be dispensed with by order of commanding officer and
russet leather leggings or puttees may be ordered. For all enlisted men
(including non-commissioned officers, drummers and trumpeters): u. coat
(blue or white), blue cap or white helmet, blue or white trousers, white
gloves, black leather shoes (russet with white trousers if prescribed),
white cap cover over blue cap if prescribed, arms and accouterments as
ordered. Bandsmen (including leader and drum-major), u. coat (blue or
white), blue or white trousers, blue cap or white helmet, sword with u.
belt and knot (leader only), white gloves, black leather shoes (russet
with white trousers if prescribed), white cap cover over blue cap if
prescribed, accouterments as ordered.

=Undress waistcoat=—(=navy=) a single-breasted, high buttoning w. of
dark blue cloth or serge or of white linen duck or similar material,
without collar, closing with 6 small navy buttons. For chaplains the
same, but with plain black or white buttons.

=Undrest kid=—see Suede. (=Undressed.=)

=Unfinisht=—trade term for fabrics that are not sheared or milled and
have a slight nap or roughness. (=Unfinished.=)

=Unfinisht serge=—s. that has not been sheared, closely resembling u.
worsted.

=Unfinisht worsted=—a soft, dull finisht, twilled cloth, woven similarly
to serge, sparingly sheared so as to leave a soft nap.

=Uniform=—livery distinguishing the members of military, naval or civil
bodies or societies and employes of clubs, corporations, etc. Compare
Livery.

=Uniform A=—(=army=) full dress; (=navy=) special full dress; (=marine
corps=) special full dress; worn whenever on occasions of ceremony
officers of both services are required to appear together in uniform, at
the White House, etc.

=Uniform B=—(=army=) dress; (=navy=) service dress; (=marine corps=)
undress; worn as stated above in Uniform A and as otherwise prescribed.

=Uniform buttons=—all metal or other b. for police, fire, military,
conductors, society or other uniforms, stamped with insignia, monograms,
etc.

=Uniform bag=—a b. of canvas, leather, or both, for carrying baseball or
other uniforms; usually constructed on the roll-up pattern.

=Uniform C=—(=army=) full dress or evening u.; (=navy=) evening dress A;
(=marine corps=) special full dress; worn as prescribed on occasions as
stated above in Uniform A.

=Uniform C=—(=navy=) the same as evening dress A but with white
waistcoat in place of blue; prescribed at discretion of senior officer.

=Uniform cloth=—(1) a stout, well fulled, woolen c., similar to kersey,
commonly dyed in navy blue and shades of gray, etc., used for police,
mail and railroad u.; (2) any c. suitable for uniforms.

=Uniform roll=—a blanket-like sort of carry-all of waterproof canvas,
with pockets, straps and handle, largely used by army, marine corps,
baseball players, etc.

=Uniform tailor=—one who makes a specialty and whose business consists
largely if not entirely of the making of army, navy, band, police, fire
and other uniforms and livery.

=Union cassimere=—a men’s wear fabric woven with a cotton warp and a
woolen or shoddy weft, of a quality with satinet (qv) but with a woven
instead of a printed pattern. See Cassimere.

=Union goods=—trade term for fabrics woven of different yarns. See U.
cassimere, U. linen, etc.

=Union label=—neither a little thing to look for nor a great thing to
find.

=Union labor=—unobjectionable if “kept in its place”, but nevertheless
the only means of bringing many an arrogant, arbitrary, slave-driving
employer to his senses.

=Union linen=—a fabric of cotton warp and linen weft.

=Union made=—not made by free workmen.

=Union silk=—fabrics of s.-and-linen, s.-and-lisle, s.-and-wool, used
largely for umbrellas.

=Union suit=—an undergarment combining in one piece drawers and shirt.

=Union tannage=—a combination of the oak and hemlock bark processes.

=Unmerchantable=—term applied to wool partially washt on the sheep’s
back but not sufficiently to be clast as “washt” (qv).

=Unpluckt=—furs with the long, stiff hairs not removed, as natural seal.

=Unpluckt seal=—wool or fur s. with the long guard hairs left in. Same
term applies to other furs, as otter, etc.

=Unspottable=—trade term for broadcloths and other fabrics finisht by a
waterproofing process so that rain will not leave spots or soil marks.

=Untwisting test=—(cotton vs. linen) cotton threads when untwisted
disclose a number of entangled fibers, while in linen yarn treated the
same way the fibers are much nearer parallel.

=Unwasht=—same as “in the grease”.

=Up-and-down stitch=—in tailoring, any s. that is pulled thru before the
next one is taken. A prick s. or side s. may be an up-and-down s. and
the button s. is decidedly one.

=Up-to-date=—the man who has bought this book.

=Upland=—cotton grown in the inland districts of the Southern States.

=Upper=—that part of a shoe covering the foot proper.

=Upper Benjamin=—a livery coat with a series of shoulder capes; usually
of waterproof box cloth.

=Upper ten=—rather more exclusiv than “the 400”.

=Uppers= (=to walk on one’s=)—poor; shabby.

=Urinal bag=—a long, light, rubber b. with straps for attaching to leg
and waist; worn by persons afflicted with bladder weakness.

=Usher=—polite name for floorwalker.

=Utica=—a popular brand of shirting muslin.


                                   V

=V=—in tailoring, etc., a triangular dart cut into some part of a
garment, as at the waist, for the purpose of giving shape.

=V neck=—term applied to sweaters having no collar or n., but instead a
slit or V-shape opening in front. Compare Turtle n.

=Vaccination shield=—a metal or papier mache s. attacht by straps, worn
over the point of v. and beneath the underclothing; a device intended to
prevent the wasteful and expletiv saying of “ouch”!

=Valencia=—a stout, striped or figured vesting material, of silk or
cotton warp with worsted weft, chiefly used for livery waistcoats.

=Valentian=—see Valencia.

=Valet=—the gentleman who reads master’s letters, wears his clothes and
at times helps him dress.

=Valet’s brush=—a long, narrow, straightback b. with graduated bristles.

=Valet’s livery=—none at all; the valet dresses quietly like most
people.

=Valeting companies=—institutions that “take care” of your wardrobe for
a monthly consideration.

=Vamp=—the forepart of shoe-uppers. See Quarters.

=Vampay=—a short woolen hose or stocking reaching only to the ankles,
probably the forerunner of our modern footless bicycle stocking.

=Vamping=—the process of stitching a vamp or upper to a top.

=Vandyke=—a short, close-trimmed, sharp-pointed beard.

=Vandyke flap=—in tailoring a doubly roached f.; having an edge of two
concave curves, joined, resulting in points at the ends and in the
center.

=Vanity=—pride: shallow, conceited and obtrusiv.

=Varnish=—shoe polish.

=’Varsity=—general term for clothes made with some eccentricity favored
by college boys.

=Veal calf=—a variety of shoe leather: a skin coming from a large-sized
or partly grown calf, or from a younger animal than a skin called Runner
(qv).

=Vegetable flannel=—a coarse, heavy fabric woven of the “wool” obtained
from pine needles. See Pine wool.

=Vegetable haircloth=—see Imitation h.

=Vegetable ivory=—the fruit or nuts of a tropical palm (phytelephas
macrocarpa) found principally upon the banks of the Esmeralda river in
South America. While growing the nuts are soft and creamy but soon
harden, acquiring a texture not unlike animal ivory and are used, almost
entirely, for making buttons. See I. nut.

=Vegetable wool=—a peculiar variety of cotton grown in Peru, rough,
crinkly, strong and closely resembling animal w.

=Veldt coat=—similar to the Norfolk or shooting jacket; made very easy
in fit, permitting exceptional liberty of action in hunting, golf, etc.,
usually worn without waistcoat.

=Vellum=—in military parlance a v. is a measurement of width of gold
braid.

=Velour=—(1) a soft napt, close-bodied woolen cloth for men’s wear; (2)
any fabric of or resembling velvet.

=Velour=—a velvet or silk pad for smoothing a silk hat. See Leur.

=Velour=—a coined or trade name used to designate a peculiar high glaze
or finish given to certain kinds of upper leathers.

=Velutine=—a kind of corded merino.

=Velvet=—a silk fabric with a closely woven back and on the face side a
thick, short, smooth nap or cut pile; usually woven double and split
apart by knives; made with both silk and cotton backs and so
denominated. In its various forms and qualities used for coat collars,
waistcoats, livery, smoking jackets, etc.

=Velvet collar=—a c. made of v. instead of same goods as body of
garment; practically confined to overcoats. See also Inlaid c. and
Laid-on c.

=Velvet finish=—a form of f. given to overcoatings and similar cloths
having a heavy nap—in some of which it is left curly, while on others it
is left standing out. Compare Bareface f., Scotch f., Dress faced.

=Velveteen=—a silk and cotton or all-cotton velvet.

=Venetian=—a stout, closely woven, fine worsted cloth having a roundish,
upright twill, commonly dyed in plain colors, moderately fulled, milled
and cropt bare in finishing and given a high luster.

=Venetian=—a twilled lining material of cotton warp and worsted weft,
also known as Italian cloth. Compare Farmer’s satin.

=Venetians=—a sort of knee breeches, reaching to just below the knee,
said to have originated in Venice; same as galligaskins.

=Vent=—in tailoring (1) an opening; usually the lower parts of seams,
for varying distances, according to style or taste, not closed but left
open and lapt over or finisht to meet; (2) an outlet (qv).

=Ventilated shoe=—a s. having a more or less ornamental series of
perforations or cut-out designs in the uppers, in appearance resembling
a compromise between shoe and sandal.

=Verger’s gown=—a plain g. of black stuff, with velvet collar, and with
short, open-slasht sleeves.

=Vertical pocket=—a slasht or welted perpendicular p., opening thru the
lining or not. See Raincoat p.

=Vest=—see Waistcoat.

=Vest corner stiffener=—a device made of flexible copper wire, designed
to be inserted between the material at the cutaway or lower corners of a
waistcoat, with the intention of keeping the same from curling up. Not
needed with a well-made waistcoat—and perhaps not likely to spoil a
cheap one.

=Vest maker=—a journeyman tailor who makes waistcoats his specialty.

=Vest sweater=—a sleeveless, collarless s., open in front and closed
with buttons.

=Vestee=—see Vestlet.

=Vestlet=—a shaped strip of white linen or other material pinned or
otherwise fastened around the neck of a waistcoat, inside, so that a
mere edging of white will show.

=Vestment=—loosely, any ecclesiastical garment.

=Vestwo=—proprietary name for a reversible vest or waistcoat made not
with an inner lining, as is usual, but of two different fabrics, so that
either side may be worn outward.

=Vici kid=—a trade mark name used to designate a particular method of
tanning or finishing goat skins; also the shoe leather as produced.

=Vicuna=—(1) the wool of a South American animal of the camel tribe,
distinguisht for exceeding softness and lightness—but because of its
scarcity fine merino wool is largely substituted and so called; (2)
heavily napt suiting and overcoating cloths of fine, soft, silky
texture, usually twill woven, and plain dyed or in Oxford mixtures.

=Viscolized=—a coined trade mark word used to designate a particular
oily waterproofing process used for finishing or preserving both sole
and upper leathers, used for hunting, fishing and tramping boots. See
Stuft leather.

=Viscolized calf=—see foregoing.

=Visor=—see Vizor.

=Viyella=—proprietary name for a sort of fine flannel.

=Visiting case=—(1) a variety of suit c.; (2) one of many names for suit
cases.

=Vizor=—(1) a projecting piece on a cap, forming a shield for the eyes;
(2) the frontpiece of a helmet with openings for seeing and breathing;
(3) a mask.

=Vladimir=—a velour-finisht cassimere, made of fine Australian wool,
giving a peculiar soft “handle”.

=Vulgar=—not in good taste, as loud colors, readymade scarves, collar
springs, dissonant shoe laces, redundant jewelry, inappropriate articles
of attire at dress functions.

=Vulgarian=—sartorially, a horrible example, and the chief patron of the
cheap tailor and flash readymader; if of the new rich, a shining mark
for the gaudy “swell” haberdasher and conscienceless tailor.


                                   W

=Wadding=—the tailor’s expedient for making a lanky, gawky customer look
well in the eyes of his best girl and fellow creatures; specifically
thin sheets or layers of carded cotton or batting, usually of a dull
slate color, the outsides of which are glazed for strength (such as it
is). Compare Padding.

=Waders=—rubber hunting boots reaching to the thighs or waist.

=Wading boots=—see Waders.

=Wading pants=—rubber coverings for the legs and lower part of the body,
made with rubber stocking feet or with boot soles.

=Wading shoe=—a leather or leather-and-canvas laced s., opening down to
the toe, with a sewed on sole studded with hobnails.

=Wading stocking=—long hose of rubber, with soft rubber feet, attacht by
a strap to the waist belt.

=Wadmoll=—a very coarse, felted woolen stuff (obsolete).

=Waist=—that part of the body between the chest and the hips lying
beneath the ribs or thorax and above the haunchbones; the narrow part of
the trunk. The “fashionable waist” of tailors is sometimes above and
sometimes below the natural w.

=Waist=—see Shirt-w.; also Under-w.

=Waist-band=—(1) the upper part of trousers and drawers; (2) a sash.

=Waistcloth=—a strip of cotton or linen c. worn around the waist and
hanging below it or passed between the thighs, worn by the unregenerate
heathen.

=Waistcoat=—a short, sleeveless body garment worn between the coat and
the shirt, the foreparts of which are made of cloth to match the suit or
of fancy material, the backs being of a silk or mohair or cotton lining
material on the outside, with a thinner fancy or plain silk or cotton
lining on the inside; usually 4 welted pockets outside and one in the
inside lining; vulgarly a “vest”.

=Waistcoating=—the proper name, but see Vesting.

=Waisted=—shaped with or having a waist.

=Waiter’s jacket=—a sort of tuxedo coat, cut off short at the waist,
similar to a military mess j.

=Waiter’s livery=—same as Footman’s dress l.

=Waiter’s shoes=—easy s. of soft leather, with light turned soles and
low heels.

=Wald wolle=—forest wool (qv).

=Wale=—a ridge, rib or flattish streak appearing above the groundwork of
a woven fabric, usually a result of twilling.

=Walking coat=—resembling a cutaway frock c., but a trifle shorter and
usually with pocket flaps on hips, and more frequently made of fancy
suitings. Also called English walking c. and morning frock.

=Walking frock=—same.

=Walking gloves=—g. of heavy leather. Compare Dress g.

=Walking stick=—a cane—supposed to complete a man’s street equipment.

=Wall trunk=—a t. so hinged that the top and back form a straight,
vertical line when opened and permit setting close to wall.

=Wallaby=—a sort of small kangaroo; hide used in fancy “leather goods”.

=Wallet=—a leather pocketbook for carrying bank notes lengthwise, also
other incunabulae such as bills, billet-deux, billets d’amour, etc.

=Wambais=—a name once given to some sort of garment quilted with wool
flax or tow.

=Wammus=—a sort of heavy, loose knitted, cardigan jacket, usually
belted; a mosey; also spelt wamus and warmus.

=Wampen system=—an “anthropometrical system” which, like all other
tailoring systems, is of alleged perfection; invented by a German
scientist of that name.

=Wampum=—Indian bead work used variously for necklaces, bracelets,
belts, etc., and among the early colonists as money.

=Wamsutta=—a brand of heavy muslin extensivly used for shirts.

=Wangan=—hunters’ term for clothing, cooking utensils, articles of
personal comfort and other incommodia taken on a camping-out hunting
trip.

=Wangan bag=—a waterproof canvas b., about the size of a meal b., for
transporting hunters’ suplies (see Wangan) from camp to camp.

=War paint=—(1) an Indian’s gala decoration; (2) cant for one’s best
clothes when donned for purposes of conquest.

=Wardrobe=—(1) one’s collection of garments; (2) a clothes-closet.

=Wardrobe trunk=—a t., variously constructed, but usually intended to
stand apparently on end, opening up so that garments are properly held
on hangers and kept in place with straps to prevent bunching; also often
with a series of drawers or partitions for smaller articles of apparel.

=Warmus=—see Wammus.

=Warp=—the threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom and crossed
by the filling or weft; sometimes called chain or end.

=Warp=—in mill parlance “a warp” is the quantity of chain required to
fully equip a loom, about 400 yards or enough for eight 50-yard pieces
of a pattern, which is the least a mill usually will start to weave,
altho occasionally “half a w.” will be put on. Hence, if a buyer order
one piece of a certain pattern and no one else should order of that
particular style, the solitary buyer would not be likely to get his
goods, the alleged reason usually being that of delay.

=Warp beam=—the roller or b. in a loom on which the w. is wound.

=Warp dresser=—a machine for sizing yarns before placing them in the
loom.

=Warp mill=—a machine for arranging the threads for laying the w. in a
loom.

=Warp-printed=—trade term for fabrics (usually silks) wherein the
pattern or design is p. on the warp threads before weaving, the filling
being of plain color or neutral shades.

=Warp wing=—a proprietary term distinguishing a certain make of shirt
collars, the wings or points of which are inserted the way of the w., it
being claimed that w. threads are stronger than weft threads, and hence
such collars are more likely to stand the wear and tear of laundering
longer than collars made in the usual way.

=Warping=—the process of making warp.

=Wash cloth=—a small, square of terry or other material, for toilet
purposes.

=Wash clothes=—(nautical) garments that have been washt and hung on the
line to dry.

=Wash goods=—trade term for fabrics, manufactured articles of apparel,
etc., designed to be washt or laundered.

=Wash suit=—trade term for garments made of washable materials,
particularly for boys and children’s wear.

=Washable=—(1) that may be washt or laundered without injury to color,
texture or finish; (2) goods without special Glaze or Finish.

=Washed=—see Washt.

=Washer=—one of the old names for kersey.

=Washerlady=—a person who helps others keep up a good appearance,
sometimes at her own expense; as bad a bill-collector as the tailor, and
an individual who knows more secrets than she gets paid for keeping.

=Washerwoman=—many prefer the title “washerlady” (qv).

=Washing=—see Scouring.

=Washing mitten=—see Bath m.

=Washington navy serge=—a fine grade, wool-dyed worsted s. of
exceptional tensil strength and wearing qualities, of a permanent rich
indigo color, adopted by the U. S. Government as the standard for naval
officer’s uniforms. Made by the Washington mills, one of the largest
plants in America, if not in the world.

=Washt=—jewelry trade term for very cheap jewelry of base metal with a
light electroplating of gold. (=Washed.=)

=Washt=—term for fleece washt on the sheep before clipping by means of
cold water. Compare Scoured, Tub washt and Unmerchantable. (=Washed.=)

=Watch=—(1) a pocket timepiece; (2) a means of occasional emergent
restoration of finances.

=Watch Albert=—a guard, usually of leather and metal, worn attacht to
the lapel buttonhole, the w. being carried in the outside breast pocket
of coat.

=Watch cap=—a knitted c. of navy-blue worsted, conical in shape, worn by
enlisted men in the navy on working duty.

=Watch coat=—general name for overcoats worn by sailors on w. in cold
weather, at night, etc.

=Watch-guard=—a chain, cord or ribbon attacht to a w. at one end and to
the person at the other.

=Watch pocket=—(1) a small p. inserted in the waistband of trousers;
also called fob p.; (2) the lower left-hand p. of a waistcoat.

=Watch wristlet=—a leather w. with a small watch embedded therein, worn
by chappies at pretty outdoor games and by some motormen on street cars.

=Water bag=—a b. made of linen duck for carrying drinking water while
hunting, exudation and evaporation cooling the contents.

=Water stiff=—trade term for felt hats of the cheaper grades, stiffened
by a w. process. See Wine s.

=Watered=—see Moire.

=Waterfall=—a sort of puff scarf, not crost in front; a once-over.

=Watermarks=—spots or discolorations on goods (as woolen cloths, etc.),
happening during process of sponging.

=Waterproof=—general name for any textil fabric so treated, by rubber or
chemicals or otherwise, that it repels instead of absorbing water. See
Cravenette.

=Waterproofing=—the method or process of rendering fabrics impervious to
water, for which there are many formulae, each “the best”. See an
encyclopedia.

=Water wings=—pneumatic aids for swimming learners.

=Wattle weave=—a style of straw hat not easy to describe unless you know
what wattle is.

=Waukenphast=—a sort of orthopedic shoe.

=Waulking=—a finishing process in the manufacture of Harris tweeds and
other homespun woolens of British crofting localities: the cloth after
weaving being laid out on long tables or boards, soap and water
liberally poured on and the cloth vigorously pommeled by hand until
sufficiently fulled or thickened, after which it is washt in clear,
cold, running water, and is then ready for the market.

=Wax=—general term for various waxes used in the trades, as beesw.,
shoemaker’s w., etc.

=Wax calf=—calfskin tanned and finisht for upper leather, on the flesh
side.

=Wax cloth=—trade term for waterproof fabrics treated by a paraffin
process.

=Wax-end=—in shoemaking, a stout thread or its end, made stiff and
pointed with wax or waxed and twisted with a bristle.

=Wearables=—clothes; wearing apparel.

=Weather test=—see Exposure t.

=Weatherproof=—rainproof.

=Weaving=—the mechanical process of manufacturing textil fabrics from
yarns or threads. Very interesting and important but too complicated for
the limited scope of this concise book—consult some good encyclopedia or
work on textil processes and then get permission to go thru a mill.

=Web thumb=—trade term for a flexible connecting piece between t. and
forefinger of baseball gloves. See Fielder’s glove.

=Wedding outfit=—a collection of sartorial elegance that one expends
much pains to acquire and later wonders why he did it.

=Wedding ring=—equivalent to the “sold” tickets placed on furniture in
the shops; custom permits men to wear them as well as women—but few are
brave enough.

=Wedge heels=—see Spring h.

=Weeds=—mourning.

=Weft=—the woof or filling of a fabric; the threads that cross the warp
from selvage to selvage.

=Weichsel=—aromatic cherry wood, used for canes, umbrella handles, cigar
holders, etc.

=Weight=—in piece goods the number of ounces a yard of material weighs.
See Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Tropical w., Fall w.

=Weighted silk=—s. that in dyeing has been so weighted or loaded with
superfluous heavy chemicals, gums, etc., as to weigh considerably more
than before dyeing. Compare Pure dye. See Weighting.

=Weighted silk test=—apply lighted match and if flame continues a few
seconds after removal of match, silk is w.

=Weighting=—in silk dyeing the process of surcharging the yarn or fabric
with gums, mineral matter, etc., for the purpose of making the goods
seem stout and heavy; also called loading.

=Welfare work=—name felicitously applied to polite intermeddling in
employes’ affairs by large corporations; a sort of paternalism that
stimulates an artificial interest in the business and a covert study of
how to break the golden rule; a variant of the living-in system of
English shop assistants; also a variant of our modern slum settlement
work.

=Well-brusht=—clean, neat, presentable. (=W.-brushed.=)

=Wellington boot=—a tight-fitting b. of fine leather, the tops usually
of morocco, hugging the calf closely and coming to a point in front and
there finisht with a small colored silk tassel; a style of the early
part of the last century.

=Wellington cloak=—a military style of cape, such as is latterly worn by
mounted policemen.

=Wellington frock=—the single-breasted f. coat of 1818; perhaps the
first of modern coats cut with a waist seam.

=Wellington hat=—a U. S. military h. of early in the 19th century, long,
narrow, high, with a small tassel or roset on the two extreme points of
the turned-up brim.

=Wellington trousers=—see Pantaloon t.

=Wellingtons=—see above.

=Welt=—in tailoring (1) a strip of material seamed to a pocket opening
as a finishing as well as strengthening device; (2) a raised or swelled
lap seam; (3) a covered cord or ornamental strip sewed on a border or
along a seam. In knitting (1) a flap knitted separately and then joined
to the main fabric by looping or hand knitting, as the heel piece of a
stocking; (2) a ribbed piece forming the finishing end, as of a sleeve
or sock, to prevent rolling. In glove making (1) a piece fastened on the
edge of a seam; (2) a sewed on hem-finish at the wrist of a glove. In
shoemaking a strip of leather set into the seam between the edges of the
upper and outer sole, thru which they are sewed together. See Goodyear
w., McKay sewed, W. sole, etc.

=Welt cutter=—a machine for notching welts for boots and shoes to make
them lie smoothly in position.

=Welt leather=—any l. fit for making shoe welts; usually the shoulder
ends of hides.

=Welt machine=—a m. for cutting leather into strips to be used as shoe
welts.

=Welt seam=—in tailoring a lapt s. with the top edge turned under thus
raising or swelling it; a raised or swelled s.

=Welt seam=—(glove term) an inseam (qv) with a strip of leather between
the join acting as a protector to the stitches, used only on working
gloves of very stout leathers.

=Welt sole=—(1) a name used for designating a particular method of
attaching the outer s. to a shoe; that is, the s. is stitcht to a w. and
the w. to the inner sole and upper; (2) a shoe made by the w. process.
There are various methods of using a w.; Goodyear w. being the best
known; Mock w. being an imitation of the Goodyear process; McKay w.
being a process where the McKay method of attaching the outer s. is used
in connection with a w. in imitation of the Goodyear process.

=Welted pocket=—a p. without a covering flap finisht with a sewed-on
strip or welt and stitcht to match the edges and seams.

=Welting=—the process in modern shoe making following that of
lasting—the surplus leather being trimmed off, the shank tackt in place,
the bottom filled with cork (if at all) and the sole put on. See Welt
sole.

=West-of-England=—trade term for extra fine dress worsteds, broadcloths,
etc.; properly from woolen manufacturing towns in the west of England.
(Bradford, Huddersfield, Leeds, etc.)

=West Point overcoat=—one of the many names applied to an ulster-like
coat brought out during the winter of 1907–08—both single and
double-breasted, buttoning to the throat, with a high Prussian collar.

=West Point uniform=—see Cadet u.

=Western Union messenger’s uniform=—see Telegraph m. u.

=Wether wool=—all clippings subsequent to the first clip from the young
sheep. See Lamb’s w.

=Weybosset=—one of the oldest American woolen mills, at one time famous
for its original patterns in cloths, which were in great demand and
widely copied.

=Whale fin=—one of the trade names for whalebone.

=Whalebone=—a horny substance from the throat of the whale, used as
stiffening in corsets, etc.

=Whangee=—any of several varieties of bamboo (Chinese and Japanese) used
for walking sticks.

=What-d’ye-call-’ems=—colloquial for drawers, breeches, and the like.

=Wheel piece=—an extra p. patcht on to the plait-side of the skirt of a
frock coat, necessitated by inability to cut the pattern whole from
narrow width goods, the seam being concealed in the folds or plaits;
once a common expedient, but now with double-width goods seldom, if
ever, necessary.

=Wheeling=—a process for indenting a fancy figuring or line around the
heel of a shoe or for indenting a conventional figure or line on the
bottom of a shoe as one of the finishing processes. See Heel seat w.

=Wherewithal=—vernacular for the means of purchasing, etc.; money.

=Whipcord=—a worsted fabric with rounded cords or ribs extending
diagonally across the surface; usually dyed in plain colors or woven in
mixtures of oxford, tan with white, etc.

=Whipping the cat=—up to about 50 years ago or thereabout it was the
practise of country tailors to go about from house to house and from
town to town and cut and make on the premises such clothing as the
household needed, usually from the homespun cloth made by the
housewives. This was called “whipping the cat”.

=Whipstitch=—to sew the edge of a fabric or a seam with long, wrapping
stitches; to overcast.

=Whisk=—small, short-handled clothes-broom.

=White cap=—(=army=) for officers, of white linen or white duck,
conforming to the pattern of the service c., with a band of white braid,
and with visor, strap, buttons as prescribed for dress c.; no badge; for
enlisted men, same as for officers, omitting the white braid; (=marine
corps=) for all officers, of white duck, of same pattern as undress c.,
trimmed with white braid, the base of the c. to a depth of one-quarter
inch all around to be of dark blue cloth.

=White coat=—(=army=) for all officers, a c. of white linen duck or
other material, cut and made after the same (general) pattern as the
(blue) dress c. (qv), the braid trimming being also white; for enlisted
men, a single-breasted sack c. of bleacht cotton duck, of regulation
pattern, with collar ornaments as for dress c.

=White dress coat=—(=navy=) for chief petty officers, except bandmaster,
and for officer’s stewards and officer’s cooks: of bleacht cotton drill
of pattern prescribed for blue coats of the several ratings, unlined,
with patch pockets without flaps; for bandsmen, the same as for enlisted
men of the marine corps.

=White evening dress coat=—(=navy=) see Evening d. c.

=White gold=—an alloy of 5 parts of silver to one of gold.

=White goods=—general trade term embracing all white cotton and linen
fabrics; also staple articles of apparel in white.

=White helmet=—(=marine corps=)—for all officers, non-commissioned
officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, same as standard sample in
quartermaster’s office; with special full dress and full dress, the
spike and spike base will be worn; with undress or field uniforms the
ventilator top only. No corps device.

=White lapel=—nickname for a lieutenant in the English navy, alluding to
the w. lapels formerly worn on the coat.

=White rose=—a perfume sufficiently explained by its name.

=White service coat=—(=navy=) for officers, similar in cut and fit to
the blue s. c., of white linen duck, bleacht cotton twill, or other
suitable material, without braid trimming, and buttoning thru with 5
large, gilt navy buttons (except for chaplains, which are white), and
having on each breast a buttoned patch pocket; appropriate shoulder
marks per rank.

=White service dress=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn at all times not
otherwise provided for, and instead of other uniform in hot weather, on
occasions of ceremony, when offense would not thereby be given, if
prescribed by the senior officer present. Consists of, for all
commissioned officers and midshipmen, w. s. coat, w. trousers, w. cap
(or helmet), shoulder marks; for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the
same without shoulder marks.

=White trousers=—(=army=) for officers, of same material as coat,
without stripe, welt or cord; for enlisted men: of bleacht cotton duck
without stripes.

=White undress coat=—(=marine corps=) see Undress c.

=White uniform=—(=army=) worn by all officers, dismounted, when
authorized by the commanding officer, but not on occasions of duty with
troops; consists of w. coat, w. trousers, w. cap, w. canvas or black
leather shoes; for enlisted men, dismounted, worn when prescribed by
commanding officer for off-duty wear, but not on dress occasions: w.
coat, w. trousers, w. cap, w. canvas or black leather shoes.

=White wax=—bleacht beeswax.

=White working dress=—(=navy=) see Working d.

=Whitecaps=—a sort of vigilance committee, robed in white with white
caps on their nocturnal morality raids.

=Whitewings=—a piccadilly shirt collar. See Wing collar.

=Whitewings=—a name given to the white uniformed street cleaners
organized in New York by Col. Waring and now copied by many large
cities.

=Whiting=—British for bleaching.

=Whitney=—(1) a heavy, coarse, sturdy woolen stuff of 18th century, used
for coats, breeches, etc.; (2) a soft bodied overcoat cloth, resembling
chinchilla but with the face tufted in transverse ridges.

=Whitney long=—same as Whitney (2) but with the face tufting running
longitudinally instead of transversely.

=Whole back=—tailoring term indicating (1) a coat made with a b. in one
piece, without seams, (2) the backpart of a frock coat cut in one piece
(without a center seam and not stubbed or cut across), the skirts of
which may be open or closed. Compare Frock b., Stubbed b., Step b.,
False b. Skirt.

=Whole falls=—see Broad f.

=Whole-sole=—to put entire new (lower) soles to a worn shoe, boot, etc.

=Whole vamp=—see Long v.

=Wholesale=—selling in quantity, to retailers; jobbing.

=Whytlaw=—general trade term for fine shirting ginghams, madrasses,
etc., manufactured by R. A. Whytlaw, Son & Co., Glasgow, Scotland.

=Wide-awake=—a soft, broad-brimmed, felt hat.

=Wide wale=—general name for flat-twilled close finisht worsted suitings
with warpwise or diagonal wales or flat ribs, often quite wide. Compare
Narrow w.

=Widower’s weeds=—equivocal manifestations of uxorial grief.

=Wig=—an arrangement of false hair for concealing baldness or for the
supposed adornment of the head; origin lost in antiquity. From the time
of Louis XIII until nearly the close of the 18th century gentlemen could
not or would not appear without one. In those days wigs were of
innumerable sizes and shapes and bore descriptiv names, those of England
and colonial America being often whimsical and, to us now, grotesque,
as: Adonis, allonge, beau peruke, bob, brigadier, campaign, club,
cut-w., corded wolf’s paw, Count Saxe’s mode, giddy feathertop,
Gregorian, grave full-bottom, Grecian fly, Jansenist, lavant, lawyer’s
long tail, fox-tail, full-bottom, feathertop, macaroni toupee, major,
minor, neck lock, scratch, spinach seed, she-dragon, snail back,
Ramillies, tie, twist, royal bird, tuck, wild boar’s back, vallancy,
dalmahoy, rhinoceros, Tyburn, cauliflower, curley roys, minister’s bob,
airy levants, etc. Wigs are still worn on the English bench and by the
speaker of the House of Commons.

=Wigan=—a very stiff, open, canvas interlining material used by tailors
for stiffening and giving shape to flies, cuffs, vest-fronts, collars,
etc. Also spelt wiggin, wigging, etc.

=Willeying=—a mechanical process for untangling and cleaning wool
fleece. (Fr. name of the inventor.)

=Willie=—too good to live.

=Willow pattern=—an effect in straw hat braids, so woven as to resemble
a willow basket in texture, tho much finer, of course.

=Willowing=—see Willeying.

=Willowing machine=—a machine for cleaning and opening textil fibers and
wools preparatory to the spinning processes. Also called opening m. and
devil.

=Wilsonia magnetic hat=—a h. that had a tremendous vogue during the
third quarter (?) of the last century because supposed to be infallible
as a cure for headache, neuralgia, etc., owing to small strips of
magnetised steel sewed to a cloth band which was attacht to the h.
inside the leather sweat-lining. (Name from that of the manufacturer?)

=Wincey=—a cloth, plain or twilled, usually with a cotton warp and wool
filling.

=Wind muff=—see W. shield.

=Wind shield=—a silk or light rubber part sewed to the lining of a coat
sleeve near the cuff, with an elastic or drawing cord to make it fit
snugly to the wrist for the purpose of excluding wind while
automobiling, etc.

=Window garments=—generally speaking, g. that are much better than the
g. actually delivered to the customer; a favorit device of the “cheap
tailor” for attracting trade, being made almost invariably by highly
paid journeymen tailors, and representing in the case of coats a cost
from $8 to $15 for making alone, against say $2.50 to $5 that it would
cost the tailor himself to produce in his own shops; naturally such
coats are not for sale, except at the end of the season, and then for as
much as they will bring; the readymade clothier also occasionally
indulges in this practice—the really fashionable tailor almost never, as
he seldom has show windows and as seldom advertises; besides his
everyday g. are as good in workmanship and usually superior in style.

=Window of the sole=—proprietary term for a paper label attacht by its
edges to the center of a shoe s., on the outside, the space beneath not
being stained, while the rest of the s. is both stained and polisht;
removal of the “window” covering exposing and attesting the quality of
the leather; a trade mark of the Regal Shoe Co.

=Window trimmer=—a man who generally understands the psychology of
attracting attention.

=Windsor cap=—a fur c. with a high, full, round crown and a wide,
rolling band, high at rear and sloping to a short, rolled peak in front.

=Windsor leather=—a straight-grained, stampt l. used for hand luggage.

=Windsor tie=—affected by would-be bohemians and forced upon helpless
children such as would-be little Lords Fauntleroy.

=Wine stiff=—trade term for felt hats stiffened by a preparation of
alcohol. See Water s.

=Wing collar=—a standing shirt c. with triangular, turned back points or
wings; also known as Piccadilly and “white wings”.

=Wing tip=—an ornamental tip on a shoe, which instead of being cut off
at right angles or in a straight line as ordinary tips, is carried back
along the sides.

=Wining=—in hat making the act or process of putting a solution of
shellac upon the edge of a brim to re-enforce or harden same.

=Winter mink=—m. caught in the cold winter months; the finest quality.
Compare Spring m.

=Winter tan=—any extra stout t. leather used for heavy footwear,
particularly storm boots.

=Winter weight=—in the woolens trades suitings of 16 to 20 ounces and
overcoatings of 24 to 30 ounces to the yard are so known. Compare Spring
w., Fall w., Summer w., Tropical w.

=Wipe=—a handkerchief.

=Wiping in=—the process of shaping the toe or other parts of a shoe by
means of iron wipers or grippers.

=Witch=—the shed motion of a loom. See Dobbie.

=Witney=—a heavy cloth. See Whitney.

=Woad=—(1) an herb of the mustard family (esatis tinctoria), used by the
ancient Britons for staining their bodies and later by dyers as a dye
and as a ferment; (2) the blue dye obtained from the leaves of the plant
but now almost entirely superseded by indigo, with which, however, it is
occasionally mixt to promote fermentation.

=Woaded=—dyed or tattooed with woad.

=Wombat=—an Australian animal, somewhat like a small bear.

=Wood silk=—a textil fiber produced by chemical treatment of wood pulp,
making yarns of good strength and great brilliancy and softness,
permanent except against the action of water. See Artificial s.

=Wood yarn=—cellulose fiber converted into flat strips of requisit
thickness and width and then spun into textil y., sometimes alone and
sometimes, for greater strength, around a minute cotton thread, forming
the material known as Xylolin (qv). This y. can be woven into almost any
fabric or form, such as dress and clothing fabrics, bathing suits,
underwear, imitation Panama hats, carpets, bagging, draperies, etc. It
is washable and cleanable, and is not especially combustible.

=Woof=—(1) the threads that cross the warp in weaving; the weft or
filling; (2) a term sometimes used to indicate finisht cloth or
textures.

=Wool=—the fleece of sheep; used for textil and similar purposes. In
grading the shorn staple the most common practise is to classify it into
three grand divisions, to wit: (1) carding or clothing w. (also called
“short staple” [2 to 4 inches long]), such as merino, having special
felting properties; (2) combing w. (also called “long staple” [4 to 10
inches long]), in which length of staple is first consideration and
felting properties are not desired, being appropriate for hardspun
worsted yarns; (3) miscellaneous, a grouping of long, strong, coarse w.
suitable for blankets, carpets (sometimes known by these and other
names), coarse clothing, etc. These, again, are subdivided into the
following grades:

     XX Combing, or the very finest, 6 inches and above in length.
     No. 1 Combing, or 2d. finest, 6 inches and above in length.
     No. 2 Combing, or 3d. finest, 6 inches and above in length.
     Braid Combing, or coarse hair, 6 inches and above in length.
     Fine No. 1, medium stapled, 5 to 6 inches in length.
     Medium or No. 2, 5 to 6 inches in length.
     Carding No. 1 and Kid, less than 5 inches in length.

Short staple wools are also known as picklock (finest), prime, choice,
super, head, seconds, abb and breech or livery; long staple or worsted
wools are also classed as fine, blue, neat, brown, breach, downright,
seconds, abb. Wools are further graded according to the parts of the
body from which sheared, the physical condition of the fleece (as common
hair, dead, kemp, crossbreed, ½ blood, ¼ blood, etc.), the country where
produced (as Australian, territory, Oregon, Ohio), etc. The manufacturer
in turn makes from fifteen to twenty or more sorts, according to the
kind of yarn and goods he produces, and each mill has its own standard
and nomenclature. Short staple wools are the finest and long staple the
coarsest. The value of combing hair increases with every inch of length,
other conditions being equal. The scope of this work does not permit an
extended treatis (which the subject merits)—so you had better consult
some authoritativ book on wools and weaving, or some good encyclopedia.

=Wool backt=—a worsted fabric, of typical worsted face, but with a
backing of w., the pattern not going thru; plated. See Thru-and-thru.
(=W. backed.=)

=Wool clip=—one season’s c. or shearing of w.

=Wool dyed=—d. in the w. before making into cloth. Compare Ingrain dye.

=Wool extract=—see Extract w.

=Wool felt=—hatter’s term for felts (and hats thereof) made from sheep’s
w. The process said to have been discovered by St. Clement, who, while
on a pilgrimage, pluckt a handful of w. from a sheep by the wayside and
placed it in his sandals; the action of walking and heat from his feet
formed the w. into a compact mass.

=Wool-in-the-grease=—(1) uncleaned w.; (2) a clip.

=Wool seal=—a heavier and more hairy pelt than the fur s., used for less
expensiv garments. Also the hide of this species of seal furnishes the
leather and fur pocketbooks, belts, bags, etc. Compare Fur s.

=Wool shears=—a tool very much like lawn (grass) shears.

=Wool sorter’s disease=—a kind of blood poisoning from infected w.,
probably anthrax.

=Woolenet=—a light-weight woolen fabric.

=Woolens=—general name for cloths made of carded wool in
contradistinction to worsteds (of combed w.); usually soft woven.

=Work-in=—see Hold in.

=Working coat=—(1) a weatherproof sack c., either single or
double-breasted, worn in place of both suit-coat and overcoat; usually
of leather, canvas, corduroy, etc., (2) a jumper.

=Working dress=—(=navy=) attire prescribed to be worn by details of men
or others engaged in work for which it may be necessary. For all but
ordinary enlisted men, both blue and white w. d. is the same as blue and
white undress, but the w. d. prescribed for “all other enlisted men” may
be drawn and worn during work such as requires it; for all other
enlisted men: blue w. d., blue w. jumper, blue cloth or flannel
trousers, blue cap, no neckerchief nor knife lanyard. White w. d.: same
as white undress, but old clothes may be worn.

=Working jumper=—(=navy=) same as undress j. (qv), but made of dark blue
flannel.

=Working shoe=—any stout s. of coarse leather, usually on the brogan
order.

=World-beater=—term of real or assumed enthusiasm employed by some
salespeople, advertisement writers, et al., in commendation of really or
fictionally exceptional values or merchandising “events”.

=Worumbo=—general term for men’s wear fabrics, especially chinchilla
overcoatings, made by the Worumbo Mfg. Co., Lisbon Falls, Me.

=Worsteds=—general name for fabrics constructed of combed wool; usually
hard woven and variously finisht.

=Wrap=—a sort of hold-all in which various kinds of luggage may be packt
or wrapt.

=Wrap-rascal=—a close-buttoned jocky coat with large metal buttons. See
also Joseph.

=Wrapper=—(1) any loose flowing outer garment, as a dressing gown (term
now almost entirely confined to women’s wear); (2) an infant’s
undershirt of the button-down-the-front variety.

=Wrappers=—leggings.

=Wrapping stitch=—a loose s. binding edges and seams; an overcast s.; a
whip s.

=Wrinkle=—a pucker or crease; sign of bad tailoring or careless wear.

=Wrist support=—a leather band with strap to prevent spraining the w.,
worn by baseball players, draymen, etc.

=Wristband=—(1) specifically, the narrow band that terminates a shirt
sleeve; (2) a short or narrow cuff.

=Wristfall=—a falling band or ruff once worn about the wrist.

=Wristler=—a knitted band worn on the wrist for warmth.

=Wristlet=—same as Wristler.


                                   X

=Xylolin=—a new textil material made in Saxony, consisting of narrow
strips of light paper and cotton or wool spun and woven into a
cream-colored cloth fabric. So cheap that a complete plain suit of men’s
clothes may be produced from it for as little as three dollars. It is
claimed that this fabric can be washt repeatedly without injury to the
surface.


                                   Y

=Yacht cloth=—a light, fine twill woven woolen cloth, finisht with a
roughish surface and dyed in plain colors; a sort of heavy flannel.

=Yacht hat=—see Boater.

=Yachting cap=—a style of cloth c. with a full crown and a small peak or
visor.

=Yachting shoe=—commonly, a low-cut leather or canvas s. with wedge
heels and rubber soles.

=Yankee cap=—a cloth c. having a flat or round crown and a closely
sticht brim turned straight up behind and down in front (tho the back
may be dropt for storm wear); devised for automobiling.

=Yankee notions=—small labor saving contrivances, toilet or dress
adjuncts, etc.; anything you can think of; term more used in England
than here.

=Yard-and-a-quarter-stick=—very useful in the clothing and tailoring
trades.

=Yard stick=—if full length, 36 inches long.

=Yard-wide=—36 inches, of course.

=Yarn=—thread for knitting or weaving.

=Yarn-dyed=—see Skein dyes.

=Ylang ylang=—“flower of flowers”; a perfume derived from or in
imitation of the flowers of a Malayan tree of the custard-apple family.

=Yoke=—a band or cross-piece to which other parts of a garment are
attacht.

=Yoke coat=—a coat made with a yoke back or front, or both.

=Yolk=—the fatty or greasy matter contained in wool; also called suint.


                                   Z

=Zanella=—a variety of cotton-warp worsted serge used for coat linings,
umbrella coverings, etc.

=Zebra stripes=—one of 1907’s foolishnesses in men’s wear
woolens—simply, any stark, staring stripe.

=Zerape=—see Serape.

=Zero collar=—proprietary name for a very deep variety of ulster c.

=Zouave cap=—a sort of fez.

=Zouave jacket=—a short j. or blouse reaching about to the waist, and
cut away in front.

=Zouave trousers=—bloomers!

=Zouave uniform=—you’ve just read it!

=Zuchetta=—a small, round, clerical skull cap of silk or velvet,
covering the tonsure, and of color suited to the wearer’s rank.




                               Addenda[1]


Footnote 1:

  New definitions, afterthoughts, omissions, and the like.

=Adonisbelt=—proprietary name for a sort of suspensory bandage, so that
a man, drest a la Henrydixeyadonis, may have his trousers cut “no
dress”.

=Arms=—bearings or devices which a person is (or assumes to be) entitled
to emblazon upon his escutcheon; something that, like forbidden fruit,
is shamelessly coveted (or manufactured) in democratic America.


=Back scye=—the back part of the scye. See Scye and Front of scye.

=Bagman=—British for traveling salesman.

=Bandoline=—a gummy preparation for plastering or glossing the hair.

=Bar coat=—see Bartender’s c.

=Bartender’s coat=—a short jacket, usually of white duck and buttoned to
the neck.

=Belwarp=—a name given to English worsteds of peculiar formation, having
some resemblance to chain-weave worsteds.

=Blouse collar=—same as Prussian c.

=Blunt corners=—not coming to a point but given a short rounding, as
lapel edges, wing (shirt) collars, etc.

=Body belt=—same as Waist b.

=Bosom shirt=—a s. with a shield or built-up bosom.

=Bottom-fulness=—tailoring term for amplitude of skirt, as in a frock
coat; belled.

=Box sack=—a loose, boxy sack coat, usually double-breasted, with a long
roll and wide button-spread.

=Breadth=—width; a “breadth” of goods is its square, “two breadths”
twice its width (in length), and so on.

=Busby cord=—a sort of aigulet attacht to a busby cap, worn draped over
the shoulder.

=Business cutaway=—same as Walking frock and English walking frock.

=Button-spread=—the distance between buttons horizontally, on a
double-breasted coat.

=Buttoned oxford=—a buttoned low shoe. See Oxford tie.


=Cabbage=—tailoring slang meaning the amount of material a “jour” can
save of the silk thread, tape, linings, etc., given him for the making
of a garment, such savings or surpluses being, by custom, regarded as
his perquisites and which he quietly “cabbages” (or keeps), whence name.

=Calves=—pre-requisite to the dignified wearing of knee breeches and the
chief reason why artistic dress reform invariably fails.

=Cap cover=—a detachable c. for a cap, protectiv or otherwise.

=Captain-general’s coat=—see Knights Templar uniform.

=Cat-stitch=—a crost s. on edges to prevent raveling. See Serging.

=Chin-scale= (=s=)—a chin strap of linkt metal plates or scales, as with
certain military caps.

=Cielette=—a name for one of numerous processes of waterproofing
woolens, worsteds, etc.

=Clad=—drest.

=Clerical cloak=—a long cape-like overgarment with collar, but without
sleeves, buttoned down the front.

=Coat of arms=—originally, a surcoat charged with heraldic devices;
hence, the armorial bearings, collectivly, of any person.

=Collar stand=—see Stand.

=Congress gaiter=—same as C. shoe.

=Crest=—(1) modernly, a plume, pompon, tuft, etc., on a uniform cap or
hat; (2) in heraldry, a warrior’s device, usually supported upon a
wreath or coronet.


=D’Elia indicator=—see Tailoring i. (D’Elia, inventor.)


=Escutcheon=—a shield shaped surface for armorial bearings.

=Everstick=—proprietary name for a make of semi-invisible rubber
overshoes so contrived as to cling closely to the edges of the sole of a
shoe without covering the uppers in front, but covering the entire heel.

=Exaggerated=—in tailoring meaning made larger than is actually
necessary to give a clean fit.

=Extension heel=—see E. sole.

=Extension sole=—in shoemaking, a s. that extends or projects out
considerably from the uppers, giving a broad tread.


=False back skirt=—in tailoring, the s. of a frock coat made with a
whole back and to which an extra piece of goods has been attacht to the
right skirt beneath the opening so there will be no gaping when the
skirts spread. Compare Frock b., Whole b., Step b., Stubbed b.

=Field=—the top of a uniform cap.

=First-over=—tailoring term, meaning strap measurement (qv); the first
measurement over the shoulder.

=Footless stocking=—a s. made without a foot, but with a retaining strap
or band reaching beneath the foot; once a favorit s. with bicyclers who
usually wore a light cotton sock beneath, if the footless s. was of wool
or tickly worsted. Also called strap-ends, in the trade.

=Footman’s coatee=—a frock coat shaped somewhat like an evening dress
coat but of livery cloth and with shorter skirts which are prest flat
and have full length side edges; the fronts meet at the end of the roll
and are closed with loopt buttons.

=Frock back=—tailor’s term for the b. of a frock coat made with a center
seam and open skirts. Compare Stubbed b., Whole b., Step b., False b.,
Skirt.

=Front of scye=—meaning obvious. Compare Back scye and Scye.

=Full box=—tailoring term for an exaggerated box coat; very full and
loose in every way.

=Furnisher=—same as haberdasher.


=Gaiter=—see Congress shoe.

=Gilded youth=—the idol (and eke despair) of multitudinous equivocal
ladies and ambitious shopkeepers.

=Gilt edge=—synonym for extra quality.

=Gladstone bag=—a traveling b., usually of leather or imitations
thereof, flat sided, taller than its width, hinged at the bottom and
opening into equal-sized sides. Also called Railroad b.

=Glottolin=—a German preparation, recently placed on the market, for
soothing tender and sensitiv necks; rubbed on a rough-edged collar it
will make the collar, it is said, easy and comfortable to wear.

=Gum boots=—vernacular for rubber b.


=Highwater pants=—too short.


=Jimmal ring=—see Gemel r.


=Knights Templar uniform=—the full u. for officers consists of coat and
trousers of black cloth, baldric, belt, sword, shoulder straps,
gauntlets and plumed chapeau; and frequently a cape or cloak of black
beaver. Commanders and past commanders wear gold wherever metal appears,
but other officers and Sir Knights wear white except for buttons and
shoulder straps, which are of gold—the Prelate alone excepted, whose
belt is of black leather, and buttons of black silk or lasting. The
Commander, Past Commander, Generalissimo and Captain-General wear a
double-breasted military frock coat lined with black.


=Leather goods=—trade term embracing light leather manufactures, such as
luggage, pocketbooks, belts, shawl straps and the like, but not applied
to shoes, harness, machinery belting and heavy manufactures.

=List=—(1) a price schedule; (2) a price from which a discount is
allowed.


=Mackinette=—proprietary name for raincoats. (Not distinctiv.)

=Men’s furnisher=—same as haberdasher.

=Men’s furnishings=—shirts, collars, cuffs, underwear, hosiery,
suspenders, neckwear, pyjamas, jewelry, fancy waistcoats, bathrobes,
bathing suits, etc.

=Men’s wear=—(1) broadly, anything for men to wear or use as
distinguisht from articles or goods for women’s wear; (2) in the woolens
trade the heavy suitings, coatings, etc., as distinguisht from the
lighter dress goods, cloakings, etc., for women’s wear.

=Muto coat=—proprietary name for an overcoat, recently introduced,
convertible from an ordinary dressy street c. into an auto driving or
storm c., the feature being a collar which may be adjusted as a stept
lapel collar or as a high banded Prussian or cadet collar with coat
buttoned to the neck.


=Napkin=—an article of table linen used or misused in a manner
indicating one’s breeding.

=Narrow wale=—obviously, the reverse of wide w. (qv); most frequently
applied to diagonal suitings of close uniform ribs, whether flat or
prominent.

=Netherlings=—humorous (?) for stockings.

=Noose=—only a very small percentage of us ever have to wear one and
then but once.


=Past commander’s coat=—(=Masonic=) same as Commander’s c.

=Pickets=—an old word probably meaning the same as picot (qv), of which
it seems to be a misspelling.

=Pin ticket=—a device for marking merchandise, samples, etc., with
price, size and other memoranda; also more or less (am)usingly left
around on chairs, benches, etc.

=Pineapple cloth=—(1) a soft, filmy textil material made from the fibers
of the pineapple leaf, and of but little use in men’s wear; (2) another
name for a fine thread-about handkerchief linen; also known as shamrock
linen.

=Prelate’s coat=—(=Masonic=) see Knights Templar uniforms.


=Raiment=—why, wearing apparel!

=Rainproof=—general term for woolen and worsted coatings, suitings,
etc., rendered weatherproof or rain-repellant by any of various
processes. See Cravenette.

=Robe=—broadly, a long loose flowing gown worn over other garments, as a
judge’s or priest’s r., an academical gown, etc.; more broadly, any kind
of a costume used to cover other clothing.

=Rockler=—an old corruption of roquelaure (qv).


=Second-over=—in tailoring, a measurement taken for obtaining the
shoulder hight.

=Selling agent=—the accredited representativ (or contractual jobber or
middleman) of a mill or factory.

=Sheath coat=—see next.

=Sheath trousers=—one of the idiocies of 1908, ascribable, doubtless, to
the hysterical feminin revival of directoire immodesties and their
pernicious effect upon some men too invertebrate to uphold the precious
responsibilities of their sex.

=Shirr=—to draw into gathers; to give a puckered or drawn effect.

=Shirring string=—a stout tape or cord for drawing a part of a garment
or article together in some part or place.

=Short bosom=—a dinky sort of shirt b., supposed to be more comfortable
for day wear under a waistcoat, but about as edifying as a flapping
dicky when one catches a glimpse of it thru an opened waistcoat.

=Skuffer=—proprietary name for a make of shoes constructed on anatomical
lines, having very broad and very heavy (yet flexible) soles and broad,
low heels or wedge heels, the innersides of the heels being built to
conform to the shape of the human heel and the entire shoe, which is
made without nails, moulded into footform.

=Spread=—see Button s.

=Stand=—the inner part of a folded collar (of a coat or shirt) or that
portion on which the collar “stands”.

=Store service=—in retailing, a method (any method) of maintaining a
high standard of efficiency and esprit du corps among employes,
customers also being, in some instances and to a certain extent, taken
into the confidence of the house. In general, an effort to prevent
mistakes, waste, etc., and adjust such as may happen. A variant of
Welfare work (qv).

=Straight leg=—term applied to riding boots having little or no shape to
the leg and resembling, above the ankles, flattened cylinders.

=Strap ends=—see Footless stocking.

=Swab=—a wool pompon for a uniform cap, so-called thru resemblance to a
gunner’s s.

=Syddo=—a soft, flexible, elastic woolen fabric recently introduced as a
substitute for haircloth, claimed to possess certain working advantages
for coat fronts, being neither too stiff nor too yielding.


=Tar=—an odoriferous, dark, viscid, oily liquid sometimes applied to the
body, after other clothes have been removed, to which a decorativ and
protectiv effect is added by means of loose feathers; thus clad one is
free to seek sympathy, aid and other clothes wherever they may be had.

=Togards=—proprietary name for a sort of half-foot of stocking material
intended for wear inside the stocking to prevent those of thin or sheer
texture from wearing out too quickly.

=Tracing braid=—narrow soutache b., used largely for decorating military
uniforms, etc.


=Unclad=—nothing on.

=Uric acid test=—a test facetiously proposed during the resist
dye-guaranteed dyes agitation of 1908, when woolens and worsteds were
subjected to extraordinary tests for permanency; altho a jest, a very
practical suggestion.


=Visiting card=—a little bit of pasteboard that causes inconceivable
agony to anyone who, having made his pile, tries to break into society.


=Waiter’s jacket=—in the better restaurants (if the dress coat is not
compulsory) a sort of mess j. of black cloth or alpaca; in cheaper
restaurants a j. of white duck resembling a bartender’s coat.

=Welt flaps=—in tailoring, a welt finish to a pocket, the lower portion
being extended and free, like a flap.




                                Appendix


                          A BILL OF MATERIALS

To the clothing manufacturer or journeyman tailor this table of
materials required for the various garments tells nothing new; but the
average retailer of clothes likely knows but little of it; while to the
man in the street, the consumer, it is doubtless all news and possibly
full of wonderment.

So far as is known, this is the first time such a list has been
compiled.


                           The Cloth Required

Men’s wear woolens, worsteds, etc., are commonly 54 inches wide. These
yardages are figured on that basis.

 A sack suit requires 3¼ to 3¾ yards.
 An evening dress suit requires 3¼ to 3¾ yards.
 A Tuxedo suit requires 3¼ to 3¾ yards.
 A cutaway frock suit requires 3¼ to 4 yards.
 A double-breasted frock suit requires 3¼ to 4 yards.
 A Norfolk jacket and trousers require 3¼ to 3¾ yards.
 A hunting coat and trousers require 3¾ yards to 4½ yards.
 A top coat requires 2¼ to 3¼ yards.
 A Chesterfield overcoat requires 2¾ to 3½ yards.
 A raincoat requires 3 to 4 yards.
 An ulster requires 3½ to 4½ yards.
 A skirted overcoat requires 3½ to 4 yards.
 Trousers require 1¼ to 1½ yards
 Hunting and broad fall trousers require 1½ to 2 yards.
 Riding breeches require 1⅜ to 1¾ yards.
 Waistcoats, single-breasted, no collar, require ¾ to 1¼ yards 27″ goods.
 Waistcoats, single-breasted, notch collar, require ⅝ to 1⅜ yards 27″
    goods.
 Waistcoats, double-breasted, no collar, require ⅝ to 1¼ yards 27″ goods.
 Waistcoats, double-breasted, notch collar, require 1 to 1¾ yards 27″
    goods.


              Linings, Findings, Etc., Required for Coats

 ─────────────┬───────┬──────┬───────┬────────┬───────┬────┬────────
              │EVENING│TUXEDO│CUTAWAY│  SACK  │NORFOLK│TOP │RAINCOAT
              │ DRESS │ COAT │  OR   │ COAT,  │JACKET │COAT│
              │ COAT  │      │WALKING│ SINGLE │       │    │
              │       │      │ FROCK │   OR   │       │    │
              │       │      │       │ DOUBLE │       │    │
              │       │      │       │BREASTED│       │    │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Serge, silk  │ 2⅛ to │ 2 to │ 2¾ to │2 to 2¾ │       │3 to│3 to 5 y
   or satin,  │ 2¾ y  │ 2½ y │ 3½ y  │   y    │       │5 y │  (b)
   30 inches. │  (a)  │ (a)  │  (a)  │  (a)   │       │(c) │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Mohair, Serge│       │      │ 2¾ to │2¼ to 2¾│2 to 2¾│ 2¾ │2¾ to 3½
   or Alpaca, │       │      │ 3½ y  │   y    │   y   │ to │   y
   32 inches. │       │      │       │        │       │3½ y│  (b)
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Venetian or  │ 1⅛ y  │ 1 to │ 1½ to │1 to 1½ │1 to 1½│ 1¼ │1 to 1½
   Italian    │       │ 1½ y │ 1¾ y  │   y    │   y   │ to │   y
   cloth, 54  │       │      │       │        │       │1½ y│
   inches.    │       │      │       │        │       │    │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Satin, 27    │       │      │       │        │       │ 2¾ │2¾ to 3
   inches.    │       │      │       │        │       │ to │   y
              │       │      │       │        │       │3¼ y│
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Silk or satin│  ¾ y  │ ¾ y  │  ¾ y  │  ¾ y   │  ¾ y  │    │
   sleeve     │       │      │       │        │       │    │
   lining, 40 │       │      │       │        │       │    │
   inches.    │       │      │       │        │       │    │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Satin sleeve │       │      │       │        │       │ 1½ │1½ to 1¾
   lining, 21 │       │      │       │        │       │ to │   y
   inches.    │       │      │       │        │       │1¾ y│
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Grosgrain    │  ¾ y  │⅝ to 1│       │        │       │    │
   facing     │       │  y   │       │        │       │    │
   silk. 27   │       │      │       │        │       │    │
   inches.    │       │      │       │        │       │    │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Canvas.      │  ⅝ y  │ ⅝ y  │  ⅝ y  │⅝ to 1 y│  ⅝ y  │1 to│1⅜ to 1¾
              │       │      │       │        │       │1¼ y│   y
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Haircloth. 18│  ½ y  │ ½ y  │  ½ y  │  ½ y   │  ½ y  │½ y │  ½ y
   inches.    │       │      │       │        │       │    │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Silesia,     │  ½ y  │ ½ y  │  ½ y  │  ½ y   │  ½ y  │½ y │  ½ y
   (pocketing,│       │      │       │        │       │    │
   etc.)      │       │      │       │        │       │    │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Canvas stay. │  ⅙ y  │ ⅙ y  │  ⅙ y  │  ⅙ y   │  ⅙ y  │⅙ y │  ⅙ y
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Pocket stay, │ 1–9 y │1–9 y │ 1–9 y │ 1–9 y  │ 1–9 y │1–9 │ 1–9 y
   (Holland.) │       │      │       │        │       │ y  │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Sleeve wigan.│  ⅙ y  │ ⅙ y  │  ⅙ y  │  ⅙ y   │  ⅙ y  │⅙ y │  ⅙ y
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Felt.        │  ⅙ y  │ ⅙ y  │  ⅙ y  │  ⅙ y   │  ⅙ y  │⅙ y │  ⅙ y
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Stay tape.   │5 to 7 │ 5 y  │5 to 8 │5 to 8 y│  5 y  │6 to│8 to 10
              │   y   │      │   y   │        │       │10 y│   y
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Collar       │  ⅙ y  │ ⅙ y  │  ⅙ y  │  ⅙ y   │  ⅙ y  │⅙ y │  ⅙ y
   canvas.    │       │      │       │        │       │    │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Collar       │       │      │       │        │       │⅙ y │  ⅙ y
   velvet.    │       │      │       │        │       │    │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Pocketing    │       │      │       │        │       │⅓ y │  ⅓ y
   velvet.    │       │      │       │        │       │    │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Buttonhole   │  6 y  │ 6 y  │  6 y  │  6 y   │  6 y  │6 y │  6 p
   twist.     │  (d)  │ (d)  │  (d)  │  (d)   │  (d)  │(d) │  (d)
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Button       │ 2 sk  │ 2 sk │ 2 sk  │  2 sk  │ 2 sk  │2 sk│  2 sk
   thread,    │       │      │       │        │       │    │
   (linen.)   │       │      │       │        │       │    │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
              │  8 l  │ 4 s  │  8 l  │2 to 6 l│4 to 6 │4 l │  4 l
 Buttons.     │1 link │1 link│4 to 6 │4 to 8 s│   l   │4 s │  4 s
              │4 to 6 │      │   s   │        │4 to 8 │    │
              │   s   │      │       │        │   s   │    │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Wadding.     │   1   │  1   │   1   │   1    │   1   │ 1  │   1
   (sheets.)  │       │      │       │        │       │    │
 ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼────────
 Wool serge   │       │      │       │        │       │    │
   lining.    │       │      │       │        │       │    │
 ─────────────┴───────┴──────┴───────┴────────┴───────┴────┴────────

 ─────────────┬────────────┬──────┬────────┬─────────
              │CHESTERFIELD│ULSTER│ DOUBLE │ SKIRTED
              │  OVERCOAT  │      │BREASTED│OVERCOATS
              │            │      │ FROCK  │
              │            │      │        │
              │            │      │        │
              │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Serge, silk  │  5 to 7 y  │6 to 8│2¾ to 3½│6 to 8 y
   or satin,  │    (c)     │  y   │   y    │   (c)
   30 inches. │            │ (c)  │  (c)   │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Mohair, Serge│  3 to 5 y  │4 to 6│2¾ to 3½│
   or Alpaca, │            │  y   │   y    │
   32 inches. │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Venetian or  │ 1¼ to 2 y  │1¾ to │1½ to 2 │2 to 2½ y
   Italian    │            │ 2½ y │   y    │
   cloth, 54  │            │      │        │
   inches.    │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Satin, 27    │  3 to 5 y  │6 to 8│        │6 to 8 y
   inches.    │            │  y   │        │
              │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Silk or satin│            │      │  ¾-y   │
   sleeve     │            │      │        │
   lining, 40 │            │      │        │
   inches.    │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Satin sleeve │ 1½ to 1¾ y │1½ to │        │1½ to 1¾
   lining, 21 │            │ 1¾ y │        │    y
   inches.    │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Grosgrain    │            │      │  ¾ y   │
   facing     │            │      │        │
   silk. 27   │            │      │        │
   inches.    │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┴──────┼────────┼─────────
 Canvas.      │  Length of Coats  │  ⅝ y   │   1 y
              │                   │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┬──────┼────────┼─────────
 Haircloth. 18│    ⅝ y     │ ⅝ y  │  ½ y   │   ½ y
   inches.    │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Silesia,     │    ½ y     │ ½ y  │  ½ y   │   ½ y
   (pocketing,│            │      │        │
   etc.)      │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Canvas stay. │    ⅙ y     │ ⅙ y  │  ⅙ y   │   ⅙ y
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Pocket stay, │   1–9 y    │ ¼  y │ 1–9 y  │  1–9 y
   (Holland.) │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Sleeve wigan.│    ⅙ y     │ ⅙ y  │  ⅙ y   │   ⅙ y
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Felt.        │    ⅙ y     │ ⅙ y  │  ⅙ y   │   ⅙ y
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Stay tape.   │ 8 to 10 y  │ 8 to │8 to 10 │8 to 10 y
              │            │ 10 y │   y    │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Collar       │    ⅙ y     │⅙ to ¼│  ⅙ y   │   ⅙ y
   canvas.    │            │  y   │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Collar       │    ⅙ y     │      │        │   ⅙ y
   velvet.    │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Pocketing    │    ⅓ y     │ ⅓ y  │        │   ⅓ y
   velvet.    │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Buttonhole   │    6 y     │ 12 y │  6 y   │  12 y
   twist.     │    (d)     │ (d)  │  (d)   │   (d)
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Button       │    2 sk    │ 3 sk │  2 sk  │  3 sk
   thread,    │            │      │        │
   (linen.)   │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
              │    4 l     │ 8 l  │  8 l   │4 to 8 l
 Buttons.     │    4 s     │ 9 s  │  6 s   │   6 s
              │            │      │        │
              │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Wadding.     │     1      │  1   │   1    │    1
   (sheets.)  │            │      │        │
 ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼─────────
 Wool serge   │            │1¾ to │        │
   lining.    │            │ 2½ y │        │
 ─────────────┴────────────┴──────┴────────┴─────────


  Abbreviations: y - yard; l - large; s - small; sk - skein;

  Notes: (a) includes back for waistcoat; (b) lined to the waist; if
  lined thruout add 1¾ yards extra; (c) includes sleeve lining; (d)
  single thread measure.


                 Linings, Etc., Required for Waistcoats


  Silk or satin lining for back, 30″, ⅝ yard; Venetian or Italian cloth
  ⅝ yard;

  Mohair, serge or alpaca ⅝ yard.

  Sateen, 40″, ¾ yard for inside; 1½ yard for inside and outside back.

  Silesia pocketing, ¼ yard; “chamois” watch pocketing, 6 × 9 inches.

  Buttons, 4 to 6 for single breast, 6 to 8 for double breast. Linen
  thread for sewing buttons, 1 skein; buttonhole twist, 1 yard (6
  strands).

  Stay tape, 2½ yards. Wigan ⅝ yard. 1 buckle.


                  Linings, Etc., Required for Trousers


  Sateen, 40″, ¼ yard. Broad falls, ½ yard.

  Pocketing, ½ to ⅝ yard.

  Linen pocket stay, 1–18 yard.

  Silesia, 1–9 yard, Wigan, 1–9 yard.

  Buttons, 6 large, 5 small, (6 if made without hook-clasp).

  Hook-clasp, 1. Buckle, 1 large, (or 2 small at sides).

  Button thread, linen, 1 skein.

  Rubber tissue (good tailors seldom use it), 1–18 yard.

  Knee silk (a luxury), ¼ yard.


                  A GENERAL DIAGRAM OF CORRECT ATTIRE

Here’s your “mentor, guide and friend”

 ══════════╤═════════╤═════════╤═════════╤════════════╤════════════╤═════════
           │ Formal  │Informal │ Formal  │Informal Day│  Business  │ Outing,
           │ Evening │ Evening │   Day   │ Occasions  │    Wear    │Motoring,
           │Occasions│Occasions│Occasions│    (4)     │    (5)     │  Etc.
           │   (1)   │   (2)   │   (3)   │            │            │   (6)
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Evening   │   YES   │   yes   │   no    │     no     │     no     │   no
   dress   │         │         │         │            │            │
   coat    │         │         │         │            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Tuxedo    │   no    │   YES   │   no    │     no     │     no     │   no
   coat    │         │         │         │            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Prince    │ no (14) │ yes (?) │   YES   │    yes     │   no (?)   │   no
   Albert  │         │  (14)   │         │            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Cutaway or│   no    │   no    │ no (?)  │    YES     │    yes     │   no
   walking │         │         │  (15)   │            │            │
   coat    │         │         │         │            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Sack coat │   no    │   no    │   no    │     no     │    YES     │   yes
   (7)     │         │         │         │            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Norfolk   │   no    │   no    │   no    │     no     │     no     │   YES
   jacket  │         │         │         │            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Waistcoat │WHITE or │  black  │ white,  │white, fancy│  SAME or   │   use
   (18a)   │  black  │  (17)   │fancy or │or SAME (18)│ fancy (18) │optional
   (8)     │  (16)   │         │SAME (18)│            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Trousers  │  black  │  black  │ same or │  same or   │            │same (18)
   (18a)   │         │         │  fancy  │ fancy (18) │            │
           │         │         │  (18)   │            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Skirted   │yes (19) │   yes   │   YES   │    yes     │    yes     │ seldom
   overcoat│         │         │         │            │            │  (20)
   (9)     │         │         │         │            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Sack      │   yes   │   yes   │   yes   │    YES     │    YES     │if needed
   overcoat│         │         │         │            │            │
   (10)    │         │         │         │            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Top coat  │   no    │   no    │   no    │    yes     │    YES     │   YES
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Raincoat  │yes (21) │   yes   │   yes   │    yes     │    yes     │   yes
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Ulster    │   no    │   no    │ no (?)  │   no (?)   │    YES     │   YES
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Shirt and │  white  │  white  │  white  │   white    │  white or  │  fancy
   cuffs   │         │         │         │            │   fancy    │
   (11)    │         │         │         │            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Collar    │standing │ fold or │standing │standing or │ folded or  │folded or
           │         │  wing   │ or wing │    wing    │    wing    │  soft
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
           │white tie│black tie│white or │Four-in-hand│Four-in-hand│ tie or
 Cravat    │         │         │  fancy  │  or ascot  │   or tie   │kerchief
           │         │         │  ascot  │            │            │  (22)
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
           │PEARL or │  gold   │  gold   │    gold    │    gold    │  gold
 Jewelry   │  moon   │         │         │            │            │
   (12)    │  stone  │         │         │            │            │
           │  (23)   │         │         │            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
 Gloves    │WHITE or │  gray   │  gray   │gray or TAN │gray or TAN │ tan or
   (13)    │  black  │         │         │            │            │ chamois
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
           │ silk or │FEDORA or│silk (26)│  Silk or   │  Derby or  │Cap (26)
 Hat       │  opera  │  derby  │         │   fedora   │   fedora   │
           │  (24)   │  (25)   │         │            │            │
 ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
           │ PATENT  │ patent  │ patent  │   patent   │black or tan│tan lace
 Shoes     │BUTTON or│button or│ button  │   button   │ button or  │shoes or
           │  pumps  │  lace   │         │            │ lace shoes │ oxfords
           │  (27)   │         │         │            │ or oxfords │
 ──────────┴─────────┴─────────┴─────────┴────────────┴────────────┴─────────


  EXPLANATORY: (1) Evening wedding, balls, receptions, opera, dinner;
  (2) club, stag, informal and home dinners; (3) day weddings,
  receptions, afternoon calls, matinees; (4) church, promenade,
  afternoon teas, matinees; (5) business and professional routine; (6)
  golf, motoring, outing and country; (7, 8, 9) single or
  double-breasted; (10) single-breasted, fly-front sack overcoat; (11)
  for 1, 2, 3, 4 white dress shirt and cuffs; for 5, white or fancy,
  dress or plaited bosom; for 6, neglige cotton, linen or flannel; (12)
  links and studs only with 1 and 2, cravat pin and watch fob or chain
  with 3, 4, 5, 6 optional; (13) glace or suede kid optional; cape or
  chamois preferable with 6; (14) the double-breasted frock is the
  proper dress coat for clergymen upon all occasions; (15) the flapt
  walking coat of conspicuously patterned material is not good form, tho
  the cutaway frock of plain fabrics and style is allowable; (16)
  figured gray silk is allowable; (17) white, also figured gray silk,
  allowable, but black is preferable; (18) “same” means same as coat;
  (18a) if fancy waistcoat is worn trousers must match coat, if fancy
  trousers are worn waistcoat must match coat; (19) business cape coat
  is preferable for strictly formal dress; (20) frock coats are correct
  for driving, races, hunting, etc.; (21) obviously not if of tan color
  or conspicuously figured pattern; (22) or soft stock; (23) very small
  gold studs are unobjectionable, diamonds and the like absolutely
  impossible; (24) fedora is allowable, derby never; (25) silk is
  considered bad taste, opera hat the hight of vulgarity; (26) fedora
  permissible; (27) pumps preferable for dancing; (?) sometimes
  allowable; small capitals indicate order of preference.


                            SELF MEASUREMENT

By “self measurements” no one means, literally, that a man can, unaided,
take his own measurements for any sort of garment satisfactorily. It is
better with help—any help. So all tailors, clothiers and outfitters use
the term in the sense of “assisted” home measurements—which, if the
instructions in the measurement charts usually supplied by the dealers
are followed, will do nearly as well as if taken by experts in the
store. The supplementary instructions and information in this chapter as
to fashionable lengths, proper proportions, how to measure, etc., should
be of real help in arriving at well-fitting garments.

Any one can measure or be measured by another—it’s just a matter of
understanding what and how to do, and doing it _that way_.


The customer should be sure that he stands in a natural position,
without inflating or contracting the chest. Any deviation from the
natural form will affect the fit of the garment. Remove from pockets
anything of a bulky nature before measuring.


Coat and overcoat measurements should always be taken over the vest. The
length of the coat and the length of the sleeve are the first
measurements to be taken. In taking sleeve measurements the arm should
be held about on a level with the shoulder, the elbow crooked at right
angles, which will make the hand about twelve inches from the face.
Measure from center seam in back over elbow to the hand side of wrist
joint. In taking the length of coat, measure from seam where collar
joins the coat to proper length. The length should be regulated by your
desire and hight; see also the proportionate tables.

After taking these two measurements (with the coat on) remove the coat
and take the breast measure over the vest. Be sure that the tape is
straight around the body over shoulder blades and close up under the
arms. If the stomach is prominent, in addition to the waist measure,
another measure should be taken around the larger part, a little lower
down.

Vest measurements should be taken over the vest, using the vest one has
on as a pattern. The tape should be drawn from seam at back of neck to
top button of the vest. If a higher or lower vest than the one worn is
desired, allowances should be made. For a double-breasted vest the
measurement should be taken to the point of the V opening and not to the
first button. The second measure should extend from seam at back of neck
as before to bottom of vest. The breast measure for the vest should be
the same as for the coat.

In measuring trousers one must stand erect. Place end of tape as close
up in crotch, on inside of leg, as you can get it and measure from that
point to where the heel joins the shoe. In measuring waist take length
around the top of trousers over the waistband. Always use the trousers
one has on as a guide for measurements, making the leg wider or narrower
as desired. The knee measurement should usually be about two inches
larger than the bottom measure. The average size for knee is 18½ inches
and for bottom 16½ inches; see also proportionate tables following. That
the cutter may make trousers of proper proportion at bottom, be sure and
indicate the size of shoe worn and state if the instep is high or low.
“Right dress” and “left dress,” indicating a certain difference in the
crotch-fulness of one trouser leg, is also important.

Describe your physical peculiarities minutely—and be sure that the
descriptions are accurate in every detail. These descriptions are
sometimes as important to a cutter as are the measurements. In making
descriptions be sure and remove the coat; coats are often padded so as
to overcome natural defects. Any irregularities in the form should be
clearly indicated on the order.

Be sure and state whether or not the measurements are taken over light
or heavy underwear, also if garment is to be worn over light or heavy
underwear. State if broad, sloping or regular shoulders; erect, stooping
or extra so either way; whether short or long neck and if the neck is
thick or thin—better give shirt collar size; give age, hight, weight and
your business, which will obviate a minister getting clothes a racing
man might wish, or vice versa. A photograph helps much.

When ordering overcoats to be worn over frock or dress coats, care
should be taken to have the overcoat at least two inches longer than the
under coat.

The width of legs of trousers should vary according to the size of the
seat measure. The usual measurements are:

         When seat measures less than 36, knee 18, bottom 16.

         When seat measures from 37 to 44, knee 19, bottom 17.

         When seat measures over 44, knee 20, bottom 18.

Don’t attempt to make allowance measures for peg-top or half-peg
trousers unless one has an old pair to be copied exactly. Take ordinary
measurements and say in the letter of instructions just how full they
are to be—the cutter, if he knows his business, knows better than the
customer what to do.

Use care in giving weight, hight and age; they are a great help to the
cutter and almost indispensable to a successful fit.

Compare the measurements as written on the order sheet with the
foregoing chart. While there may be some variation, due to physical
differences, and for which scientific allowance will be made by the
cutter if necessary, the lengths of coats and vests should be given on
the order as in the table if one wishes garments cut in the fashion of
the day—it being understood that freak garments such as undergraduates
and rounders affect are not bound by these wise and sane suggestions.


                  Proportionate Table of Measurements

               For Guidance of Customers Ordering by Mail

 ═══════════════════════╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══
                        │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 6 │ 6
     Hight (basis of    │ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.
      measurements)     │ 2 │ 3 │ 4 │ 5 │ 6 │ 7 │ 8 │ 9 │10 │11 │   │ 1
                        │in.│in.│in.│in.│in.│in.│in.│in.│in.│in.│   │in.
 ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───
 Average weight         │90 │100│110│120│130│140│150│160│170│180│190│200
 ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───
 Breast                 │31 │32 │33 │34 │35 │36 │37 │38 │39 │40 │41 │42
 ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───
 Waist length, frock,   │17 │17¼│17½│17¾│18 │18¼│18½│18¾│19 │19¼│19½│19¾
   Prince Albert and    │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │
   dress coat           │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │
 ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───
 Length of cutaway or   │33¼│33¾│34¼│34¾│35¼│35¾│36¼│36¾│37¼│37¾│38 │39
   walking coat         │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │
 ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───
 Length of dress or     │37 │37¾│38½│39½│40½│41½│42 │42½│43 │43½│44 │44
   Prince coat          │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │
 ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───
 Length of              │27 │27½│28 │28½│29 │29½│30 │30½│31 │31½│32 │33
   single-breasted sack │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │
 ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───
 Length of              │27½│28 │28½│29 │29½│30 │30½│31 │31½│32 │32 │33
   double-breasted sack │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │
 ───────────────────────┼───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───
 Length of Chesterfield │Should state if to wear over frock or sack coat
   sack overcoat        │  or both
 ───────────────────────┼───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───
 Length of vest         │23½│24 │24½│24¾│25 │25¼│25½│25¾│26¼│26¾│27 │27½
 ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───
 Outside seam of        │39½│40 │40½│41¼│42¼│43 │43½│44¼│45 │45½│46 │46½
   trousers including   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │
   waistband            │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │   │
 ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───
 Inseam of trousers     │29 │29½│30 │30½│31 │31½│32 │32½│33 │33½│34 │34½
 ───────────────────────┼───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───
 Sleeve                 │Measure sleeve of old coat from seam under arm
                        │  to cuff, adding ½ inch
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────────────────────────────
 Length of top coat     │One and one-half inches longer than
                        │  double-breasted sack
 ───────────────────────┼───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───
 Length of rain coat    │46 │47 │48 │49 │50 │51 │52 │53 │54 │55 │56 │57
 ───────────────────────┼───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───
 Length of skirted      │One inch less than rain coat
   overcoat             │
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────────────────────────────
 Length of ulster       │Same as rain coat
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────────────────────────────
 Length of Tuxedo coat  │Same as double-breasted sack
 ───────────────────────┴───────────────────────────────────────────────

When the hight is shorter and the weight heavier, the breast will be
larger than the proportionate table shows. When the hight is higher and
the weight less, the breast will be smaller than the table shows.

When the breast is larger than the seat, take the measure again, as this
is unusual. Be careful that the personal description is thoro.


                          PERIODS OF MOURNING

For a wife, widowers wear mourning for one year to eighteen months;
second mourning, if adopted, usually being at the expiration of a year.

For a husband, widows wear mourning for two to three years, lightening
at intervals of six months.

Grass widows and widowers do not wear mourning for the departed.

For parents, gentlemen wear mourning for six months to one year; women
usually wear it for two years.

For a brother or sister, gentlemen wear mourning for six months to one
year; women usually one year.

For a child, fathers wear mourning six months to one year; mothers
usually a full year. For an infant, three months.

For grandparents, few men wear mourning; but if they do, second mourning
for three to six months is considered sufficient; women wear mourning
six months to one year.

For uncles, aunts or cousins, men seldom adopt mourning, unless second
mourning for one to three months; women for three months.

For grandchildren, it is considered unnecessary—or perhaps too
admonitory.

It will be noticed that women always grieve longer than men—at least by
outward symbols.


                          TO MEASURE FOR A HAT

Adjust tape measure around head at a point level with the center of the
forehead.

                      ═══════════════════════════
                      Hat size Inches around head
                      ───────────────────────────
                      5⅝       18¾
                      6        19
                      6⅛       19⅜
                      6¼       19¾
                      6⅜       20¼
                      6½       20¾
                      6⅝       21
                      6¾       21½
                      6⅝       21⅝
                      7        22¼
                      7⅛       22½
                      7¼       23
                      7⅜       23⅜
                      7½       23¾
                      7⅝       24
                      7¾       24½
                      7⅝       25
                      8        25¼
                      ───────────────────────────

Boys’ sizes run from 5⅝ to 7; mens’ from 6¾; the largest size commonly
carried in stock is 7¾, all above that being called extra sizes.


                              LIVERY CHART

A table of the proper servants’ wear for city and country, arranged by
vehicles.

NOTE.—In many cases trousers matching coat may be substituted for boots
and breeches; circumstances, principally those concerned with formality,
must govern.

 ═════════════════════╤════╤══════════════════════╤═════════════════════
        VEHICLE       │MEN │         CITY         │       COUNTRY
 ─────────────────────┼────┼──────────────────────┼─────────────────────
 Beach (or morning)   │   1│Dress; trousers       │Undress; trousers
   phaeton            │    │                      │
 Booby sleigh         │   2│Dress or undress      │Undress or dress
 Break                │   2│Dress or undress;     │Undress or dress;
                      │    │  trousers            │  trousers
 Brougham             │1 or│Dress; boots and      │
                      │   2│  breeches            │
 Caleche              │   2│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches            │
 Chaise               │   1│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches or         │
                      │    │  trousers; better    │
                      │    │  form without a      │
                      │    │  servant             │
 Coach                │   2│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches            │
 Cocking cart         │   1│Dress; boots and      │Undress; breeches and
                      │    │  breeches or trousers│  leggins
 Coupe                │1 or│Dress; boots and      │
                      │   2│  breeches            │
 Curricle             │   1│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches            │
 Cutter               │   1│Dress or undress      │Undress or dress
 Dog cart             │   1│Dress; boots and      │Undress; breeches and
                      │    │  breeches            │  leggins
 D’Orsay              │   2│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches            │
 Dos-a-dos            │   1│Dress; boots and      │Undress; breeches and
                      │    │  breeches            │  leggins
 Extension top phaeton│   1│Dress; trousers       │Undress; trousers
 Game cart            │   1│Dress; boots and      │Undress; breeches and
                      │    │  breeches            │  leggins
 George IV (or lady’s │   1│Dress; boots and      │
   driving phaeton)   │    │  breeches            │
 Gig phaeton          │   1│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches            │
 Golf cart            │   1│Dress; boots and      │Undress; breeches and
                      │    │  breeches            │  leggins
 Hansom               │   1│Dress or undress; may │Undress or dress; may
                      │    │  wear a plain black  │  wear a plain black
                      │    │  cutaway coat, felt  │  cutaway coat, felt
                      │    │  top hat, breeches   │  top hat, breeches
                      │    │  and leggins, in     │  and leggins, in
                      │    │  rainy weather a     │  rainy weather a
                      │    │  mackintosh cape     │  machintosh cape
 Ladies’ driving      │    │See George IV         │
   phaeton            │    │                      │
 Landau               │   2│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches            │
 Landaulet            │   1│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches            │
 Mail phaeton         │   2│Dress; groom’s livery │
                      │    │  boots and breeches  │
 Morning phaeton      │    │See Beach phaeton     │
 Omnibus              │   2│Dress; afternoon or   │Undress; trousers
                      │    │  evening, boots and  │
                      │    │  breeches; morning   │
                      │    │  trousers            │
 Park drag            │   2│Dress; groom’s livery,│
                      │    │  boots and breeches  │
 Phaeton              │   1│Dress; trousers       │Undress; trousers
 Road coach           │   2│                      │Dress; boots and
                      │    │                      │  breeches, or,
                      │    │                      │  undress; breeches
                      │    │                      │  and leggins
 Rockaway             │   1│Dress; trousers       │Undress; trousers
 Runabout             │   1│Dress or undress      │Undress or dress
 Skeleton break       │   2│                      │Undress; breeches and
                      │    │                      │  leggins
 Spider phaeton       │   1│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches            │
 Stanhope             │   1│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches            │
 Station wagon        │   1│                      │Undress; trousers
 Surrey               │   1│Dress; trousers       │Undress; trousers
 T cart               │   1│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches            │
 Tandem cart          │   1│Dress; boots and      │Undress; breeches and
                      │    │  breeches            │  leggins
 Tilbury              │   1│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches            │
 Top wagon            │   1│                      │Undress; trousers or
                      │    │                      │  breeches and
                      │    │                      │  leggins
 Unicorn break        │   1│Dress; boots and      │Undress; breeches and
                      │    │  breeches            │  leggins
 Victoria             │1 or│Dress; boots and      │
                      │   2│  breeches            │
 Vis-a-vis            │   2│Dress; boots and      │
                      │    │  breeches            │
 Wagonette            │   1│Dress or undress;     │Undress or dress;
                      │    │  trousers            │  trousers
 Whitechapel cart     │   1│Dress; boots and      │Undress; breeches and
                      │    │  breeches            │  leggins
                      │    │                      │
                      │    │     AUTOMOBILES      │
 Brougham             │   2│Dress or undress;     │
                      │    │  greatcoats          │
 Ladies’ runabout     │   1│Undress; trousers     │Undress; trousers
 Runabout             │   1│Undress; trousers     │Undress; trousers
 Surrey               │   1│Dress; military coat, │Undress; trousers
                      │    │  trousers            │
 Touring car          │1 or│Undress; greatcoats   │Undress; greatcoats
                      │   2│                      │
 Victoria             │   2│Dress; trousers       │Undress; trousers
 Victoria (rear drive)│   1│Dress; trousers       │Undress; trousers
 ─────────────────────┴────┴──────────────────────┴─────────────────────


                             CLOTH MEASURE

This old system is used but little nowadays, having been superseded by
long measure and the metric system.

        2¼ inches              make 1 nail        marked na.
        4 nails                make 1 quarter     marked qr.
        4 quarters             make 1 yard        marked yd.
        3 quarters             make 1 ell Flemish marked E. Fl.
        5 quarters             make 1 ell English marked E. E.
        5 quarters 1 9–10 ins. make 1 ell French  marked E. Fr.
        5 quarters 1 1–5 ins.  make 1 ell Scotch  marked E. S.


                         SHOES: THEIR NUMBERING

There are various systems of shoe sizes in use nowadays—designed,
perhaps, to deceive those with vanity afflicted who will insist they can
wear a smaller size than they can wear—or should wear. So if one asks
for 6½A he can depart in peace and comfort wearing 40–1, or 185, or
28–1, or otherwise as the system may be.

Yet for that matter an 8½A by one maker may not be 8½A in some other
maker’s shoes, although both use the old numbering system, as many still
do.

The best known of the “blind numbering systems” is that known as “French
Sizes” and corresponds thus:

                  Size     1  1½  2  2½   3  3½  4  4½
                  Written 33 33- 34 34-  35 35- 36 36-
                           5  5½  6  6½   7  7½  8  8½
                          37 37- 38 38-  39 39- 40 40-
                           9  9½ 10 10½  11 11½ 12 12½
                          41 41- 42 42-  43 43- 44 44-
                          13 13½ 14  12 13½
                          45 45- 46  45 45-

A dash indicates half sizes.

                          Widths  A B C D E EE
                          Written 0 1 2 3 4 5

In marking, the size is first written, then the width, close together;
thus 37–0 means 5½A, 40–1 means 8B, etc.


Another widely used system is more obvious, in that ½ is the decimal .5
without the decimal point, thus:

              Size          1  1½  2  2½  3  3½  4  4½  5
              Written       1  15  2  25  3  35  4  45  5
                           5½   6 6½   7 7½   8 8½   9 9½
                           55   6 65   7 75   8 85   9 95
                           10 10½ 11 11½ 12 12½ 13 13½ 14
                           10 105 11 115 12 125 13 135 14
                      Widths       A   B  C   D  E  EE
                      Written      1   2  3   4  5   6

In marking, the width is written first, so that 1½A is 115, 4½C is 345,
etc.


A third system has a valueless figure prefixt thus:

                Size       1  1½    2  2½    3   3½   4
                Written   21 21-   22 22-   23  23-  24
                          4½   5   5½   6   6½    7  7½
                         24-  25  25-  26  26-   27 27-
                           8  8½    9  9½   10  10½  11
                          28 28-   29 29-  210 210- 211
                         11½  12  12½  13  13½
                        211- 212 212- 213 213-

The dash indicating the half sizes.

                        Widths  AA A B C D E EE
                        Written 00 0 1 2 3 4 5
                                  Or
                                   1 2 3 4 5

In marking, the widths are written last, thus 22–0 means 2½A, 281 means
8B or 8A.

A system largely used in marking men’s shoes consists in letting the
last figure indicate the width and dividing the first figure or figures
by 2 to obtain the size, thus:

                Size          1 1½  2  2½  3  3½  4  4½
                Written       2  3  4   5  6   7  8   9
                              5 5½  6  6½  7  7½  8  8½
                             10 11 12 12½ 14  15 16  17
                              9 9½ 10 10½ 11 11½ 12 12½
                             18 19 20  21 22  23 24  25
                        Widths   A  B   C  D   E EE
                        Written  1  2   3  4   5  6

Thus size 7½A is written 151, size 8B is written 162, and so on.

Another system, and one that is used by the Douglas Shoe Co., has the
width written first, and the size next, a third figure being used to
indicate whether a whole or half size is meant, thus:

                    470 means width 4 or (D) size 7
                    345 means width 3 or (C) size 4½

This system retains the regular size numbers from 1 upward, the whole
number being indicated by 0 and a half size by 5 added as the third
figure. After size 9½ four figures are used, the two middle ones
indicating the size. Widths are designated thus:

                         Width   A B C D E EE W
                         Written 1 2 3 4 5 6  7

Doubtless, like in all things else, woman was at the bottom of the
invention of these systems, which were fittingly applied first of all to
woman’s shoes, but nowadays they are quite universal. Hence he is a
happy man whose shoes fit and who knows it.

Shoe sizes for the various ages are usually divided thus:

                          Infants’, 3 to 8
                          Children’s, 8½ to 12
                          Misses’, 12½ to 2
                          Ladies’, 2½ to 6
                          Youths’, 12 to 2
                          Boys’, 2½ to 6
                          Men’s, 6 to 14

while widths are clast

                      A or 1 narrow
                      B or 2 medium narrow
                      C or 3 medium
                      D or 4 wide
                      E or 5 extra wide
                      EE or 6, widest usually made
                      W or 7 exceptionally wide.


                     RELATED HOSIERY AND SHOE SIZES

While it is scarcely advisable to order shoes (by mail, for instance) by
the sizes of one’s hose, it is quite practicable, satisfactory and
comfortable to order hose by the size of one’s shoes—that is to say by
the relation of these sizes to each other, to wit:

Men’s hosiery—

                 Shoe 5½–6 6½–7 7½–8 8½–9 9½–10 10½–11
                 Hose  9½   10  10½   11   11½    12

Average weight in cotton, 2½ ounces per pair; wool, 3½ ounces.

Children’s hosiery—

              1 Infants’ shoe takes            4 -in. hose
              2 and 3 Infants’ shoe takes      4½-in. hose
              4 Infants’ shoe takes            5 -in. hose
              5 Infants’ shoe takes            5½-in. hose
              6 and 7 Children’s shoe takes    6 -in. hose
              8 Children’s shoe takes          6½-in. hose
              9 and 10 Children’s shoe takes   7 -in. hose
              11 Boys’ shoe takes              7½-in. hose
              12 Boys’ shoe takes              8 -in. hose
              13, 1 and 2 Boys’ shoe takes   8–8½-in. hose

Average weight per pair, cotton, 2 to 4 ounces; per dozen, 20 to 40
ounces; wool, about 50 per cent more.


                           HOSIERY SIZE MARKS

The little pinhead holes near the ribbed top of a stocking indicate its
size. Read them thus:

                             Mens’ hosiery—
                         Size  9  *
                         Size  9½ **
                         Size 10  ***
                         Size 10½ ****
                         Size 11  *****
                         Size 11½ ****** or ***
                                            ***

                           Infants’ hosiery—
                         Size  4  *
                         Size  4½ **
                         Size  5  ***
                         Size  5½ ****
                         Size  6  *****
                         Size  6½ ****** or ***
                                            ***

                             Boys’ hosiery—
                         Size  6  *
                         Size  6½ **
                         Size  7  ***
                         Size  7½ ****
                         Size  8  *****
                         Size  8½ ****** or ***
                                            ***
                         Size  9  ***
                                  ****
                         Size  9½ ****
                                  ****
                         Size 10  ****
                                  *****


                        SLEEVE LENGTHS (SHIRTS)

As commonly made the following lengths of sleeves are provided for each
neck size—a lesser range for colored shirts because of the extra hazard
on “novelties” and perhaps because the wearers aren’t so particular as
he who must be au fait in spick-and-span white all the time.

 ═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════════════════════════════
        NECK SIZE       │                SLEEVE LENGTHS
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┬───────────────────────
                        │         White         │        Colored
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
           13½          │       30 to 32        │          31
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
           14           │       30 to 33        │       31 to 33
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
           14½          │       30 to 34        │       31 to 33
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
           15           │       30 to 35        │       31 to 33
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
           15½          │       30 to 35        │       32 to 34
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
           16           │       30 to 33        │       32 to 34
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
           16½          │       30 to 34        │       32 and 33
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
           17           │       30 to 34        │       32 and 33
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
           17½          │       31 to 34        │       32 and 33
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
           18           │       31 to 34        │       32 and 33
 ───────────────────────┴───────────────────────┴───────────────────────

Attacht cuffs add 2 inches.


                    BOYS’ AND CHILDREN’S UNION SUITS

The corresponding sizes for ages are as follows:

 ═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════
          SIZE          │        LENGTH         │         AGES
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
            2           │        29 in.         │        3 to 4
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
            3           │        32 in.         │        5 to 6
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
            4           │        36 in.         │        7 to 8
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
            5           │        40 in.         │        9 to 10
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
            6           │        44 in.         │       11 to 12
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
            7           │        48 in.         │       13 to 14
 ───────────────────────┴───────────────────────┴───────────────────────

If large for his age, take next size larger, or the following:

 ───────────────────────────────────┬───────────────────────────────────
                SIZES               │               AGES
 ───────────────────────────────────┼───────────────────────────────────
          24 breast measure         │                            6 years
 ───────────────────────────────────┼───────────────────────────────────
          28 breast measure         │                       7 to 9 years
 ───────────────────────────────────┼───────────────────────────────────
          32 breast measure         │                     10 to 12 years
 ───────────────────────────────────┼───────────────────────────────────
          34 breast measure         │                           13 years
 ───────────────────────────────────┴───────────────────────────────────


                       CHILDREN’S UNDERWEAR SIZES

If your children are large for their age, purchase at least one size
larger than the average as given in the scale of sizes.

                         AGE       SHIRTS  PANTALETS
                    1  year        Size 16  Size 16
                    1  to 1½ years Size 18  Size 16
                    1½ to 2  years Size 20  Size 18
                    2  to 4  years Size 22  Size 20
                    4  to 6  years Size 24  Size 22
                    6  to 8  years Size 26  Size 24
                    8  to 10 years Size 28  Size 26
                    10 to 12 years Size 30  Size 28
                    12 to 13 years Size 32  Size 30
                    13 to 14 years Size 34  Size 32
                    14 to 15 years Size 34  Size 34

None of the goods under this heading are intended for large boys. Boys’
drawers and shirts come in sizes 24 to 34 only.


                   CHILDREN’S GLOVE SIZES (AVERAGES)

                 Size 00 for children of 2 to 3 years.
                 Size  0 for children of 3 to 5 years.
                 Size  1 for children of 4 to 6 years.
                 Size  2 for children of 5 to 8 years.
                 Size  3 for boys of 6 to 9 years.
                 Size  4 for boys of 8 to 11 years.
                 Size  5 for boys of 10 to 13 years.
                 Size  6 for boys of 11 to 14 years.


                           SILK RIBBON WIDTHS

In this table is given the usual width of silk ribbons according to
their respectiv numbers:

 ═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════
         NUMBER         │         LINES         │        INCHES
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
                       1│          2½           │         3–16
                      1½│           4           │         5–16¼
                       2│           5           │         7–16
                       3│          6½           │         9–16⅝
                       4│           8           │        11–16¾
                       5│          10           │        15–16–1
                       7│          13           │         1⅛–1¼
                       9│         17–18         │         1½–1⅝
                      12│         21–22         │         1⅝–2
                      16│          25           │          2⅜
                      22│          30           │          2⅝
                      40│        38 (?)         │          3½
 ───────────────────────┴───────────────────────┴───────────────────────


                        MEN’S WEAR CLOTH WEIGHTS

Cloths and all textil fabrics are standardized on the basis of the
weight of a yard in ounces. The approximate weights given below are for
double-width goods—54 inches; but as double-width varies from 48 to 60
inches the term itself is, once in a while, misleading. However, if the
“double-width” is unusually narrow or unusually wide it is generally so
stated in exact figures, both as to width and weight. The weights of
cloth commonly used for men’s clothing in this country are:

 ═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════
                        │       SUITINGS        │     OVERCOATINGS
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
 Winter                 │        16 to 20 ounces│    24 to 30 ounces
 Spring                 │        11 to 15 ounces│    16 to 22 ounces
 Summer                 │        10 to 14 ounces│
 Summer “Tropical”      │         9 to 11 ounces│
 Fall                   │        12 to 16 ounces│    16 to 24 ounces
 ───────────────────────┴───────────────────────┴───────────────────────


                         TAILORS’ BUTTON SIZES

The range of sizes commonly used on the various garments is:

 Ulsters—front 45 lines; sleeves and throat 30 to 33 lines.
    Overcoats—fronts 36 to 40 lines; sleeves 24 to 30 lines. Coats—front
    30 to 33 lines; sleeves 20 to 24 lines. Vests—24 to 30 lines.
    Trousers—waist 27 lines; fly 22 lines.


                           SILK THREAD TABLE

This table shows the numbers of silk thread, with the corresponding
number of yards per pound and per ounce:

 ═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════
           NO.          │    YARDS PER POUND    │    YARDS PER OUNCE
 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
           000          │                 32,000│                  2,000
           00           │                 25,600│                  1,600
            0           │                 20,800│                  1,300
            A           │                 16,000│                  1,000
            B           │                 13,600│                    850
            C           │                 10,400│                    650
            D           │                  8,800│                    550
            E           │                  6,400│                    400
           EE           │                  5,280│                    330
            F           │                  4,192│                    262
           FF           │                  3,392│                    212
            G           │                  2,000│                    125
 ───────────────────────┴───────────────────────┴───────────────────────


                       TAILORS’ SILK THREAD SIZES

The sizes of silk thread and twist most widely used for best results in
the making of men’s clothing are:

 ═════════════════╤═════════════════╤═════════════════╤═════════════════
                  │  MACHINE TWIST  │BUTTONHOLE TWIST │     SEWINGS
 ─────────────────┼─────────────────┼─────────────────┼─────────────────
 Coat             │     00 or 0     │    12–16–18     │     A-00-D
 Vest             │     00 or 0     │    12–16–18     │    00 and A
 Trousers         │     A or B      │    12 and 14    │     B and D
 ─────────────────┴─────────────────┴─────────────────┴─────────────────


                        HOW TO MEASURE FOR A WIG

Maybe you can get a good “fit” by self-measurement and ordering by mail.
Try it.

 1st Measure—The circumference of the head, from forehead around over the
    ears to base of skull. 2nd Measure—From forehead back over the top of
    the head to nape of neck. 3rd Measure—From ear to ear, across the
    forehead. 4th Measure—From ear to ear, over the top of the head. 5th
    Measure—From temple to temple, around the back of the head,]
    (horizontally). These measurements in inches.

To order a toupee, cut a piece of paper the exact size and shape of the
bald spot and also give measurement around the head (No. 1) and state on
which side the hair is parted.


                            METRIC MEASURES

The unit of length measurement in the metric system is the meter, which
is supposed to be one ten-millionth part of the earth’s meridian
quadrant, or 39.370 inches.

The unit of surface is the are, or 100 square meters. The unit of volume
is the stere, which is a cubic meter. The unit of volume is the liter,
or the volume of 1 kilogram of distilled water at its maximum density,
or the equivalent, one cubic decimeter.

Prefixes to the words meter, are, stere, and liter, etc., indicate
multiples or fractions thereof, thus:

 1 myriameter     5.4 nautical miles, or 6.21 statute miles.
 1 kilometer      0.621 statute mile.
 1 hectometer     109.4 yards.
 1 decameter      0.497 chain, or 1,988 rods.
 1 meter          39.37 inches, or nearly 3 feet, 3⅜ inches.
 1 decimeter      3.937 inches.
 1 centimeter     0.3937 inch.
 1 millimeter     0.03937 inch.
 1 micron         ¹⁄₂₅₄₀₀ inch.
 1 hectare        2.471 acres.
 1 are            119.6 square yards.
 1 centiara       10.764 square feet.
 1 decastere      13 cubic yards.
 1 stere          1.307 cubic yards.
 1 decistere      3½ cubic feet.
 1 kiloliter      1 ton, 14 gallons, 2 pints, 2 gills, old wine measure.
 1 hectoliter     26.4 gallons.
 1 decaliter      2 gallons, 2 quarts, 1 pint, ½ gill.
 1 liter          1 quart, ½ gill.
 1 deciliter      0.845 gill.
 1 millier        1 ton avoirdupois less 35 pounds.
 1 metric quintal 2 hundredweight less 3½ pounds, or 220 pounds 7 ounces.
 1 kilogram       2 pounds, 3 ounces, 4⅜ drams avoirdupois.
 1 decagram       154.32 grains troy.
 1 gram           15.43234874 grains.
 1 decigram       154.32 grains.
 1 centigram      0.15432 grain.
 1 milligram      0.015432 grain.


                   BRITISH PEERS’ ROBES AND CORONETS

These heritages of a glorious feudal past are tenaciously cherished with
all their privileges, but needless to say, are worn only upon high
ceremonial occasions.

There have been some few changes thruout the ages which this condenst
book for busy Americans cannot spare space to describe. At the
coronation of King Edward an edict informed those immediately concerned
that “the robe or mantle of the Peers be of crimson velvet edged with
miniver, the cape furred with miniver pure, and powdered with bars or
rows of ermine according to their degrees, viz.:

                   Barons—Two rows.
                   Viscounts—Two rows and a half.
                   Earls—Three rows.
                   Marquesses—Three rows and a half.
                   Dukes—Four rows.”

The said mantles or robes to be worn over the full Court dress, uniforms
or regimentals.

“Their coronets to be of silver-gilt, the caps of crimson velvet turned
up with ermine, with a gold tassel on the top and no jewels or precious
stones are to be set or used in the coronets or counterfeit pearls
instead of silver balls.

“The coronet of a Baron to have on the circle or rim six silver bells at
equal distances.

“The coronet of a Viscount to have on the circle sixteen silver balls.

“The coronet of an Earl to have on the circle four gold strawberry
leaves and four silver leaves alternately, the latter a little raised or
pointed above the rim.

“The coronet of a Duke to have on the circle eight gold strawberry
leaves.”


         UNIFORMS OF FAMOUS INDEPENDENT MILITARY ORGANIZATIONS

A knowledge of the uniforms of the few remaining “ancient and honorable”
military organizations, dating back to the early days of the country may
be very useful to shopkeepers on occasions such as visits, celebrations,
etc., and, in a broader way, to any student of costume or anyone having
a professional, business or transient interest in the subject.

The information following was supplied in every case by some member of
the companies listed, usually by the commanding officer. Unfortunately,
the list is not quite complete, as several promises to furnish
descriptiv matter at a later date were apparently forgotten, and a few,
tho repeatedly and courteously requested to do so, gave the matter no
attention. Nevertheless, this is a representativ and measurably useful
list.

It must be remembered, however, that in keeping with the condenst
character of the Dictionary, descriptions are necessarily quite brief.
If more precise information is required by any reader, it may be had,
doubtless, by addressing the commanding officer of the company.

=Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company of Massachusetts=, Boston,
Mass. Organized 1638. Each company of this organization retains the
uniform adopted at the time of its organization, the original company
wearing the quaint buff-leather jerkins, flat hats and other
characteristic accessories of that time; the companies organized at the
time of the war for independence wearing the historic buff and blue so
well known to every school boy; those of the time of the late rebellion
wearing the characteristic civil war uniforms; while companies formed
later wear more modern equipment.

=Charleston Light Dragoons=, Charleston, S. C. Organized 1733 (the
oldest cavalry and the second oldest military organization in the U.
S.). Now wearing the regulation U. S. uniform. Former uniform: a full
dress coat of dark green cloth, buttoned to the throat, trimmed with
seven rows of yellow braid across front connecting three rows of
buttons, standing collar trimmed with yellow braid, yellow shoulder
knots; green trousers with yellow stripes; black boots; helmet of black
leather with heavy brass ridge trimmings, horsehair pendant, brass
visor, brass chin scale and brass crest.

=Charlestown Artillery=, Boston, Mass. Organized 1786. For many years
has worn only the regular uniform of the U. S. army and has no longer a
private uniform.

=Chatham Artillery=, Savannah, Ga. Organized 1786. The regular uniform
that of the U. S. army. The dress uniform consists of: a half-frock
artillery coat of gray cloth, single-breasted with a row of nine Georgia
buttons in front, standing collar of scarlet cloth edged with gold lace,
cuffs of scarlet cloth edged with gold lace; trousers of blue cassimere
cloth with stripes of scarlet cloth on outer seams edged with gold lace;
cap of scarlet cloth with gray cloth field on top and with gold band and
insignia; gold shoulder knots with scarlet ground and silver insignia;
belt of gold and scarlet; the same uniform for non-commissioned officers
and privates, except the cuffs of coat edged with scarlet mohair braid
instead of gold, the trousers with narrower stripes, the shoulder knots
of scarlet mohair braid with gray ground, and the cap with scarlet field
and scarlet band. The service uniform consists of a dark blue flannel
shirt, dark gray jeans trousers, U. S. army campaign hat, brown duck
army leggins.

=Columbus Riflemen=, Columbus, Miss. Organized 1837. Present uniform
that of the National Guard. In years past the company has various
uniforms, the most notable and expensiv being a gray cutaway coat with a
double row of buttons across the front fastened with gold bands across
the breast; gold epaulets and white helmet.

=Duquesne Grays=, Pittsburgh, Pa. Organized 1831. A dress uniform of
gray cloth, consisting of a full dress coat piped with white, with three
rows of bell buttons on the breast, white epaulets, white cross belts
and white waistbelt; a broad white stripe on the outerseams of the
trousers; bearskin shako; in general resembling that of West Point and
the Cleveland Grays. The undress uniform consists of a gray blouse with
one row of buttons, gray trousers with white stripes, and a regulation
gray cap with insignia.

=First Company Governor’s Foot Guard=, Hartford, Conn. Organized 1771.
Dress uniform consists of single-breasted cutaway frock coat of scarlet
cloth with standing collar, a shaped plastron of black cloth on front
trimmed with eight rows of silver braid and edged with same, standing
collar and cuffs of black trimmed to match, skirts lined with buff
cloth; waistcoat and breeches of buff cloth; black leggings; black fur
cap with red-tipt pompon and red tassel on sides and gilt blazon in
front; white cross belts.

=First Company Governor’s Horse Guard=, Hartford, Conn. Organized 1778.
The dress uniform consists of a hussar’s jacket of navy blue cloth with
cross rows of black braid in front, fastening with olives, black braid
up the back seams to the shoulders; gold shoulder knots; gold breast
belt over left shoulder with dispatch box attacht behind, gold aigulets;
black astrakhan busby cap with yellow broadcloth top draping over the
right side with hussar plume and insignia of troop.

=First Light Infantry=, Providence, R. I. Organized 1818. The dress
uniform consists of a scarlet swallowtail coat with standing collar;
coat trimmed with white and gold; white epaulets trimmed with red; light
blue trousers of cloth woven especially for the regiment, with stripes
of white broadcloth piped with red, except for officers who wear gold
stripes with red piping; a bearskin hat about 18 in. high with black
leather chin strap and gold wire tassel in front. Equipment: a black
leather waistbelt with plain brass buckle; bayonet scabbard of black
leather with brass trimmings; a white cross belt with cartridge box of
colonial style attacht; in general resembling the uniforms of the Old
Guard of the City of New York, the Governor’s Foot Guards of Hartford,
Conn., and the Washington (D. C.) Light Infantry. The dress uniform
conforms to U. S. army regulations.

=First Troop Philadelphia City Cavalry=, Philadelphia, Pa. Organized
1774. Officers mounted full dress uniform: single-breasted jacket of
dark blue cloth with three rows of metal ball buttons, standing collar
of scarlet cloth extending down center of back 3½ in. to point, narrow
silver braiding on back, breast, collar, pocket, sleeves and skirt;
tight-fitting ankle breeches of white stockinet; helmet: body with vizor
and cape of black japanned leather, body 6½ in. high with metal band,
vizor metal bound and metal crest, side leaves, rosets and chin scales,
a jet black grenier with fine short hair; epaulets of silver wire lace;
sabretache of black morocco; baldric of scarlet silk and silver lace,
lined with red leather; gauntlets of white leather; jack boots of black
leather with front reaching above knees when seated; and other details,
insignia, etc., as per regulations. The same uniform with slight
modifications for non-commissioned officers and privates. Dismounted,
wear trousers in place of breeches. Mess uniform: single-breasted jacket
of dark blue cloth, open in front, with standing collar trimmed with
silver braid looping across and fastening in front, pointed cuffs
trimmed with silver braid; white linen waistcoat closed to neck, with
nickelplated buttons, silver shoulder cords. For men, a similar uniform
with slight modifications.

=Georgia Hussars=, Savannah, Ga. Organized 1737. Present uniform that of
the National Guard. The historical uniform, adopted in 1819, was an
adaptation of the uniform of the Austrian army, the coat being a
single-breasted Hussar jacket, with five rows of buttons arranged shield
shape on the front.

=Infantry Battalion State Fencibles=, Philadelphia, Pa. Organized 1813.
Dress uniform: coatee of scarlet cloth with standing collar, trimmed
across breast with seven rows white and gold braid, deep gold breast
cord, cuffs of white cloth with ornamental gold braiding, epaulets of
gold lace; black trousers with white stripes; bearskin shako, with gold
tassel, except for staff officers, who wear blue felt helmets with long
white horse hair plumes. Same uniform for privates except that epaulets
are of cotton cord instead of gold lace. Also the regulation olive-drab
service uniform.

=Kentish Guards=, East Greenwich, R. I. Organized 1774. A
single-breasted coatee of dark blue cloth, closed to throat with nine
brass buttons, the collar of white cloth trimmed with flat gold braid,
the coat trimmed with white and gold braid; trousers of sky-blue cloth
with white stripe on outer seams 1¼ in. wide for officers and ¾ in. wide
for non-commissioned officers and privates. Except for insignia of rank
and trousers stripes the uniform is the same for all officers and men.
Insignia same as U. S. army full dress.

=Lafayette Artillery Company=, South Lyndeboro, N. H. Organized 1804.
Now wears the present dress uniform of the regular artillery of the U.
S. army, with the exceptions as follows: the caps are the older straight
caps instead of the present bell crown; the officers wear the same
uniforms as the men with the exception of the stripes and shoulder
straps; officers wear gilt stripes, but non-commissioned officers wear
the regulation red stripe and chevrons. One of the historic uniforms of
the company, adopted in 1833 or earlier, consisted of “a Bonaparte cap
with a black “ploom”, the coat blue and trimmed with yellow ball buttons
and yellow worsted cord; with white pantaloons, with black “gaters” in
pickets and black stocks, yellow belts for the sword with a belt over
the shoulder, and boots”.

=Macon Volunteers=, Macon, Ga. Organized 1825. Now Co. B., 2nd Regt.
Infantry, National Guard of Georgia and wearing the regular army
uniform.

=Mobile Rifle Company=, Mobile, Ala. Organized 1836. Frock coat and
trousers of olive-green cloth, the coat for men trimmed with a row of
brass buttons on either side of breast, white epaulets and wide white
webbing over the shoulders, meeting at center of breast and fastened
with a large brass buckle; for officers, with rows of gold braid across
breast instead of the brass buttons, and gold shoulder knots. Trousers
with gold stripes at the sides. A high olive-green cap with gold
trimmings and white plume.

=Montgomery True Blues=, Montgomery, Ala. Organized 1836. Dress uniform
consists of a coatee of dark blue cloth, for officers, with seven rows
of gold braid across breast, gold standing collar with center of red,
gold epaulets with red center; enlisted men wearing white cross belts
instead of gold braid across breast and gold epaulets with red fringe;
white waist belts; trousers of light blue cloth with gold stripes with
red center; black shakos with two gold tassels.

=National Lancers=, Boston, Mass. Organized 1836. Dress uniform: a
double-breasted dress coat of scarlet cloth with two rows of nine
buttons on breast, skirts faced back and front with military blue cloth
and lined with scarlet cloth, standing collar, the coat trimmed rather
elaborately with gold braid; trousers for officers, of dark blue cloth
with gold stripe for full dress, and of sky-blue cloth with yellow cloth
stripe for undress, and for troopers of sky-blue cloth with yellow cord
stripe; riding breeches of same material and style; helmet of blue felt,
lancers pattern, with black enamel leather square top with brass bound
corners, brass scalechin strap, gold helmet cord extending to neck and
beneath right shoulder passing under the arm, plume of white swans
feathers; epaulets of scarlet cloth for troopers, shoulder knots of gold
braid for officers; belt and saber straps of white enamel leather,
officers wearing regulation army gold-embroidered dress belt; cape of
dark blue kersey lined with yellow, officers wearing army officer’s
cape. Fatigue uniform: a close-fitting blouse of dark blue cloth
fastened with nine buttons, four outside bellows pockets with flaps;
cap, same as U. S. army.

=New Haven Grays=, New Haven, Conn. Organized 1816. The dress uniform of
iron-gray cloth, consisting of a coatee with nine rows of braid across
the front and three rows of buttons, standing collar, fringed epaulets,
white waist belt and white cross belts, tall stiff felt cap with pompon,
insignia, etc.; trousers to match with two braid stripes; in general
resembling the West Point uniform.

=Old Guard of the City of New York=, New York, N. Y. Organized 1826.
Dress uniform: double-breasted coat of white cloth with ten buttons on a
side, embroidered collar of mazarin blue cloth; mazarin blue cuffs,
edged with scarlet cloth and trimmed with gold braid; skirts turned up
front and back with mazarin blue cloth edged with scarlet and trimmed
with gold braid; trousers of mazarin blue cloth with scarlet stripes and
gold braiding along outer seams; bearskin grenadier hat 15 in. high and
36 in. around at top, with two gold tassels and metallic chin strap; or
a dress cap of dark blue cloth, circular pattern, without visor, with
patent leather chin strap, gold embroidery on red field in front, for
wear with white coat on occasions of ceremony. Overcoat of heavy dark
blue beaver, double-breasted surtout style, with collar, cuffs and side
edges of scarlet cloth edged with white cord. Fatigue uniform: a
single-breasted sack coat of dark blue cloth, closed with flap with
concealed fastenings, standing collar, trimmed along edges, seams, etc.,
with flat black mohair braid; fatigue cap of regulation pattern with
black silk cord. Officers’ dress same as for privates except hat and cap
cords are of gilt; epaulets of fine bullion, plain straps. Shoulder
knots of gold wire cord on scarlet cloth. Other details as per
regulations.

=Republican Rifles=, Savannah, Ga. Organized 1808. No longer uses the
old uniforms of the corps, but is uniformed and equipt under the
National Guard of Georgia.

=Salem Light Infantry=, Salem, Mass. Organized 1805. No private uniform
at the present time, wearing that of the National Guard.

=Second Battery, F. A. N. G., N. Y.=, New York, N. Y. Organized 1833.
Equipt and uniformed exactly as a Field Battery of the U. S. army.

=Second Company Governor’s Foot Guard=, New Haven, Conn. Organized 1775.
Dress uniform consists of scarlet frock coat, single-breasted, cutaway
sharply just below the middle of the chest, the front with a plastron of
light blue cloth, square at the top, and extending in a narrow edging
all along the skirts, trimmed along its edges with silver braid, and
laid across the breast with rows of silver braid, cuffs and standing
collar of blue cloth with silver trimming to match, also a similar
treatment on the skirts over the hips; waistcoat and breeches of white
cloth; black velvet leggings; bearskin shako with silver tassel; white
gloves; white cross belts, black waist belt.

=Second Corps of Cadets=, Salem, Mass. Organized 1785. In its career the
corps has had some sixteen or more uniforms, all of which it wears on
certain occasions, as anniversary celebrations, etc. With the exception
of the uniform worn during the civil war, all the coats were red, with
black, blue or light blue trousers. The present uniform consists of a
red coat with blue facings (collar, cuffs, belt, tabs, shoulder straps,
side edges, etc.) with white edges; trousers of dark blue cloth with
white stripes; waist belt and cross belt of black enamel leather; French
shako cap of beaver with red and blue pompon; gold chevrons; other
details as prescribed.

=Seventh Regiment, N. G., S. N. Y.=, New York, N. Y. Organized 1806.
Full dress coat: of cadet gray cloth, single-breasted with standing
collar, the skirts lined with black cloth and turned up both back and
front, fronts of the coat trimmed with three rows of N. G. buttons
connected across with black mohair braid in double rows. Dress coat,
officers: of dark blue cloth with standing collar; for enlisted men: a
blouse of cadet gray cloth with standing collar and cuffs of black
cloth. Trousers of gray cadet cloth with black stripes; in summer of
white duck. Full dress hat: a shako of black felt or beaver 4½ in. high
in front and 7½ in. high behind, with white worsted pompon and with
ornaments, etc., as prescribed. Fatigue cap for men: of gray cloth, with
black band, etc.; for officers, of dark blue cloth. Field service
uniform, of olive-drab cloth, same as U. S. army.

=Strafford Guards=, Dover, N. H. Organized 1822. Now wearing regulation
U. S. uniform, being “Co. A, Second Infantry, N. H. N. G.”

=Washington Artillery=, New Orleans, La. Organized 1840. Present uniform
conforms to that of U. S. army. The uniform of 1840 consisted of a
single-breasted coatee of deep blue cloth with red standing collar and
red cuffs; light blue trousers with red stripes; gold epaulets for
officers and red for men; gold waist belt for officers and white cross
belts for men; tall white shako caps with red pompon. The uniform of
1861 retained the same colors for coat and trousers but the coat was a
single-breasted sack, buttoned to the neck, with standing collar; red
caps of the forward slant type; gold epaulets for officers and gold
shoulder knots for men; gold waist belt for officers and white waist
belt and white cross belt for men. The uniform of 1875 was entirely of
gray cloth, the coat being a double-breasted frock with standing collar,
two rows of gilt buttons on the breast and edgings of red cloth; red
trousers stripes; officers wore gilt waist belt and men white; officers
wore gold-and-red shoulder knots and men red-and-white; caps of black
felt, French shako pattern, with red plumes. The uniform of 1883
reverted to the two blues of earlier days, somewhat resembling in style
those of 1840, excepting chiefly that the coat had three rows of gilt
buttons on the chest, the men wearing red epaulets and officers
gold-and-red shoulder knots, the men wearing a white waist belt only and
the officers gilt; the headdress was a white helmet with gilt trimmings
and red plume for officers and with gilt chin straps and gilt spike for
men.


                             COLLEGE COLORS

Modern merchants play-up to the collegians, making artful use of the
colors and emblems as occasion affords. Wherefore the usefulness of this
list.

(P. S.—Don’t object to the few women’s colleges included—the information
may be useful in an emergency.

 Adelphi College                     Brown and Gold.
 Alabama Polytechnic Institute       Orange and Blue.
 Albion College                      Pink and Green.
 Alfred University                   Royal Purple and Old Gold.
 Amherst College                     Purple and White.
 Armour Institute of Technology      Yellow and Black.
 Atlanta University                  Steel Gray and Crimson.
 Baker University                    Burnt Orange.
 Baldwin University                  Old Gold and Brown.
 Barnard College                     Light Blue and White.
 Bates College                       Garnet.
 Baylor University                   Green and Gold.
 Bethany College, Kansas             Yellow and Blue.
 Boston University                   Scarlet and White.
 Bowdoin College                     White.
 Brigham Young College               Crimson.
 Brown University                    Brown and White.
 Bryn Mawr College                   Yellow and White.
 Bucknell University                 Orange and Blue.
 Butler College                      Blue and White.
 Carlisle Indian School              Red and Old Gold.
 Case School of Applied Science      Brown and White.
 Catholic University of America      Gold and White; Maroon and Black
                                       for athletics.
 Central University, (Kentucky)      Cardinal and Blue.
 Claflin University                  Orange and Maroon.
 Clark College                       Scarlet and White.
 Clark University                    Emerald Green and White.
 Clemson Agricultural College        Purple and Orange.
 College of the City of New York     Lavender.
 Colorado College                    Black and Gold.
 Columbia University                 Light Blue and White.
 Cornell College, (Iowa)             Royal Purple and White.
 Cornell University                  Carnelian and White.
 Creighton University                Blue and White.
 Culver Military Academy             Maroon and White.
 Cumberland University               Maroon and White.
 Dakota University                   Blue and White.
 Dartmouth College                   Green.
 Delaware College                    Old Gold and Blue.
 Denison University                  Denison Red.
 Denver University                   Red and Gold.
 De Pauw University                  Old Gold.
 Dickinson College                   Red and White.
 Drake University                    Blue and White.
 Drury College                       Scarlet and Gray.
 Earlham College                     Yellow and Cream.
 Fisk University                     Blue and Yellow.
 Fort Worth University               Blue and Gold.
 Franklin and Marshall College       Blue and White.
 Franklin College, (Indiana)         Navy Blue and Old Gold.
 Georgetown University, (D. C.)      Blue and Gray.
 George Washington University        Buff and Blue.
 Girard College                      Steel and Garnet.
 Grant University                    Gold and Blue.
 Grove City College                  Crimson.
 Hamilton College                    Rose Pink.
 Hampton Institute                   Blue and White.
 Harvard University                  Crimson.
 Heidelberg University               Black, Orange and Red.
 Hillsdale College                   Ultra-Marine (Blue).
 Hiram College                       Sky Blue and Cherry Red.
 Hobart College                      Yellow and Purple.
 Holy Cross College                  Purple and White.
 Howard University                   Dark Blue and White.
 Illinois Wesleyan University        Green and White.
 Indiana University                  Crimson and Cream.
 Iowa College                        Scarlet and Black.
 Iowa State College                  Cardinal and Gold.
 Iowa Wesleyan University            White and Purple.
 Jacob Tome Institute                Blue and White.
 John B. Stetson University          Green and White.
 John Hopkins University             Black and Old Gold.
 Kansas City University              Crimson and Orange.
 Kansas Wesleyan University          Purple and Old Gold.
 Kentucky University                 Crimson.
 Knox College                        Purple and Old Gold.
 Lafayette College, (Pennsylvania)   Maroon and White.
 Lake Forest University              Red and Black.
 Lawrence University                 White and Yale Blue.
 Lebanon Valley College.             Blue and White.
 Lehigh University                   Brown and White.
 Leland University                   Blue.
 Leland Stanford, Jr., University    Cardinal.
 Manhattan College                   Green and White.
 Marietta College                    Navy Blue and White.
 Maryville College                   Orange and Garnet.
 Massachusetts Institute of          Cardinal Red and Silver Gray.
   Technology
 Mercer University                   Orange and Black.
 Miami University                    Crimson and White.
 Michigan Agricultural College       Olive Green.
 Mississippi Agri. and Mech. College Maroon and White.
 Morris Brown College                Royal Purple and Black.
 Mount Holyoke College               Light Blue.
 Mount Union College                 Royal Purple.
 Nebraska Wesleyan University        Yellow and Brown.
 Nevada State University             Royal Blue and White.
 New York University                 Violet.
 Normal College                      Lavender and White.
 Northwestern University, (Illinois) Royal Purple.
 Oberlin College                     Crimson and Gold.
 Ohio Northern University            Orange and Black.
 Ohio State University               Scarlet and Gray.
 Ohio University                     Olive Green and White.
 Ohio Wesleyan University            Red and Black.
 Oregon Agricultural College         Orange.
 Ottawa University                   Sunflower Yellow.
 Otterbein University                Cardinal and Tan.
 Polytechnic Institute, (Brooklyn)   Blue and Gray.
 Pratt Institute, (Brooklyn)         Cadmium Yellow.
 Princeton University                Orange and Black.
 Purdue University                   Old Gold and Black.
 Radcliffe College                   Red and White.
 Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute    Cherry and Cream.
 Rutgers College                     Scarlet.
 Shaw University                     Garnet and White.
 Simmons College                     Blue and Gold.
 Simpson College                     Red and Old Gold.
 Smith College                       White.
 Southwest Kansas College            Royal Purple.
 State College of Kentucky           Blue and White.
 State College of Washington         Crimson and Gray.
 State University of Iowa            Old Gold.
 State University of North Dakota    Pink and Green.
 Stevens Institute of Technology     Silver Gray and Cardinal.
 St. Francis Xavier College          Maroon and Blue.
 St. John’s College, (N. Y.)         Maroon.
 St Lawrence University              Scarlet and Brown.
 St. Louis University                Blue and White.
 St. Olaf College                    Old Gold.
 Syracuse University                 Orange.
 Talladega College                   Cardinal and Blue.
 Teachers’ College, (New York City)  Blue and White.
 Temple College                      Cherry and White.
 Texas Christian College             Royal Purple and White.
 Throop Polytechnic Institute        Orange and White.
 Trinity College, (Connecticut)      Old Gold and Blue.
 Trinity College, (North Carolina)   Navy Blue.
 Tufts College                       Brown and Blue.
 Tuskegee Institute                  Crimson and Old Gold.
 University of Alabama               Crimson and White.
 University of Arkansas              Cardinal.
 University of California            Blue and Gold.
 University of Chicago               Maroon.
 University of Cincinnati            Red and Black.
 University of Colorado              Silver and Gold.
 University of Denver                Crimson and Gold.
 University of Georgia               Red and Black.
 University of Idaho                 Silver and Gold.
 University of Illinois              Orange and Blue.
 University of Kansas                Crimson and Blue.
 University of Kentucky              Blue and White.
 University of Maine                 Light Blue.
 University of Michigan              Maize and Blue.
 University of Minnesota             Old Gold and Maroon.
 University of Missouri              Black and Old Gold.
 University of Montana               Copper, Gold, and Silver.
 University of Nashville             Garnet and Blue.
 University of Nebraska              Scarlet and Cream.
 University of North Carolina        White and Blue.
 University of Notre Dame            Old Gold and Marine Blue.
 University of Oregon                Oregon Grape, Green, and Yellow.
 University of Pennsylvania          Red and Blue.
 University of Rochester             Yellow.
 University of South Dakota          Vermilion.
 University of Southern California   Cardinal and Gold.
 University of the South             Purple and Old Gold.
 University of Tennessee             Orange and White.
 University of Texas                 White and Gold.
 University of Utah                  Crimson and Silver.
 University of Vermont               Green and Gold.
 University of Virginia              Orange and Dark Blue.
 University of Washington            Purple and Gold.
 University of Wisconsin             Cardinal.
 University of Wooster               Black and Old Gold.
 University School, (Ohio)           Maroon and Black.
 United States Military Academy      Black, Gold and Gray.
 United States Naval Academy         Blue and Gold.
 Upper Iowa University               Peacock Blue.
 Utah Agricultural College           White and Blue.
 Vanderbilt University               Black and Gold.
 Vassar College                      Rose and Gray.
 Virginia Polytechnic Institute      Orange and Maroon.
 Walden University                   Black and Red.
 Washburn College                    Electric Blue.
 Washington and Jefferson College    Red and Black.
 Washington and Lee University       Blue and White.
 Washington University, (Missouri)   Myrtle and Maroon.
 Wellesley College                   Deep Blue.
 Wesleyan University                 Cardinal and Black
 Western Reserve University          Crimson and White.
 Western University of Pennsylvania  Old Gold and Navy Blue.
 West Virginia University            Old Gold and Blue.
 Wiley University                    Royal Purple and White.
 William and Mary College            Orange and White.
 Williamette University              Cardinal and Old Gold.
 Williams College                    Royal Purple.
 Woman’s College of Baltimore        Dark Blue and Old Gold.
 Worcester Polytechnic Institute     Crimson and Steel Gray.
 Yale University                     Blue.


                           MANDARINS’ BUTTONS

In China the rank or dignity of the mandarin is indicated by a button in
the top of the cap. There are nine classes, each of two degrees, and
they are differentiated thus:

             │                                     Class  Degree
        Red  │A ruby or other precious stone       1st    1st
          „  │Coral                                1st    2nd
          „  │A red jewel of inferior quality      2nd    1st
          „  │Coral carved in the form of a flower 2nd    2nd
        ─────┼──────────────────────────────────────────────────
        Blue │A light blue precious stone          3rd    1st
          „  │The same only smaller                3rd    2nd
          „  │A dark blue precious stone           4th    1st
          „  │The same only smaller                4th    2nd
        ─────┼──────────────────────────────────────────────────
        White│Crystal                              5th    1st
          „  │The same only smaller                5th    2nd
          „  │A white precious stone               6th    1st
          „  │The same only smaller                6th    2nd
        ─────┼──────────────────────────────────────────────────
        Gold │Gold                                 7th    1st
          „  │Smaller                              7th    2nd
          „  │Smaller                              8th    1st
          „  │Smaller                              8th    2nd

Gold buttons are also worn by the ninth or lowest order—but which,
nevertheless, is a great deal above the common classes.

------------------------------------------------------------------------




                           Works by Mr. Baker


                       A Dictionary of Men’s Wear

    (This present book) Cloth $2.50, Half Morocco $3.50


                       A Dictionary of Engraving

    A handy manual for those who buy or print pictures and printing
    plates made by the modern processes. Small, handy volume, uncut,
    illustrated, decorated boards, 75c


                      A Dictionary of Advertising

    In preparation




                              A DICTIONARY
                             _of_ ENGRAVING


                        _By_ WILLIAM HENRY BAKER

[Illustration: [Logo]]

An unique reference book for advertising men (both genders) who,
paradoxically, are often somewhat at sea in discussing the processes of
engraving; electrotyping and the related graphic arts.

Designed as a popular rather than a pedantic book—so here and there
thruout it are to be found touches of “human interest” such as
unconventional definitions of non-technical terms, rank candor and some
cynicism, which may bite or amuse. Technical terms, however, are not
monkeyed with.

Printed with some taste on laid antique paper, untrimmed, with
illustrations and diagrams, bound in decorated boards, handy volume
size.


  “Exceedingly helpful.”—_Printer’s Ink_

  “Even the non-professional reader will profit by having it on a
  convenient shelf.”—_Cleveland Leader_

  “Remarkable for brevity and directness.”—_Cleveland Press_

  “We have an idea it was born of the travail of spirit endured by the
  author (an advertising manager of wide experience) in dealing with the
  great crowd of craftsmen who have not overtenderly guided his copy
  through art department, engraver’s room, composing room, stereotyping
  department and pressroom.”—_Detroit Times_

  “Very practical and indeed interesting.”—_American Printer_

  “Has a value which can hardly be estimated.”—_The Franklin Company,
  Chicago_

  “Should find a place in the library and workshop of every man whose
  business comes within the scope of its treatment.”—_Louisville Evening
  Post_

  “A complete and thoroughly prepared work, meaty, useful and witty as
  well.”—_N. Y. Daily Trade Record_

  “The most interesting volume to the allied trades since Lockwoods
  ‘American Dictionary of Printing and Bookmaking’”—_Tony Rubovits,
  Chicago_

  “Compliment you upon its completeness and reliability.”—_The H. S.
  Ormsbee Engraving Co., Syracuse_

  “Certainly interesting to anyone interested in printing.”—_Dill &
  Collins Co., Philadelphia_


              _Price, 75 cents, postpaid. Edition limited_


                              PUBLISHT BY

                          WILLIAM HENRY BAKER

                            CLEVELAND, OHIO

------------------------------------------------------------------------




                          TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES


 Page           Changed from                      Changed to

   30 back to front of arm acye at     back to front of arm scye at
      level thereof under the arm      level thereof under the arm

   56 Chloroform—CHCl_{2}; a good      Chloroform—CHCl_(3); a good
      agent for the removal of grease  agent for the removal of grease

  315 1 stere .307 cubic yards.        1 stere 1.307 cubic yards.

 ● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
 ● Used numbers for footnotes.
 ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.
 ● Enclosed bold or blackletter font in =equals=.
 ● Subscripts are shown using an underscore (_) with curly braces { },
     as in H_{2}O.





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