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Title: A sailor's life under four sovereigns, Volume 3 (of 3)
Author: Sir Henry Keppel
Release date: September 3, 2025 [eBook #76810]
Language: English
Original publication: London: Macmillan and Co, 1899
Credits: Terry Jeffress, MWS, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A SAILOR'S LIFE UNDER FOUR SOVEREIGNS, VOLUME 3 (OF 3) ***
A SAILOR’S LIFE
[Illustration: MacMillan and Co. Printer’s Mark.]
[Illustration: “_Sibuko had had his Quietus._”]
A SAILOR’S LIFE
UNDER
FOUR SOVEREIGNS
BY
ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET
THE HON. SIR HENRY KEPPEL
G.C.B., D.C.L.
VOL. III
London
MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED
NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
1899
_All rights reserved_
CONTENTS
CHAPTER LXVI PAGE
Fatshan Creek 1
CHAPTER LXVII
Visit Sarawak 8
CHAPTER LXVIII
Sarawak--India--England 11
CHAPTER LXIX
England 19
CHAPTER LXX
England--Groom-in-Waiting 32
CHAPTER LXXI
In Waiting 36
CHAPTER LXXII
The Cape Command 39
CHAPTER LXXIII
The Cape Command--Flag in _Brisk_ 45
CHAPTER LXXIV
East Coast Sport 50
CHAPTER LXXV
Zanzibar--Shooting Hippopotami 57
CHAPTER LXXVI
Zanzibar 62
CHAPTER LXXVII
_Forte_--Flag Re-hoisted 65
CHAPTER LXXVIII
The Cape Command 68
CHAPTER LXXIX
Return to England 75
CHAPTER LXXX
Shore Time 80
CHAPTER LXXXI
Country House Visits 92
CHAPTER LXXXII
A Shore Journal 104
CHAPTER LXXXIII
Home Life 109
CHAPTER LXXXIV
The Command in China 113
CHAPTER LXXXV
Bound for China 117
CHAPTER LXXXVI
The China Command 129
CHAPTER LXXXVII
North China Ports 139
CHAPTER LXXXVIII
Daibootz 153
CHAPTER LXXXIX
The China Command 164
CHAPTER XC
The Outlook for the New Year 173
CHAPTER XCI
Hari-Kari 183
CHAPTER XCII
The China Command 190
CHAPTER XCIII
Flag in _Salamis_ 206
CHAPTER XCIV
The China Command 218
CHAPTER XCV
The Command in China 227
CHAPTER XCVI
The Northern Ports 237
CHAPTER XCVII
Memories of Gordon 245
CHAPTER XCVIII
Yang-tse-kiang Trip 256
CHAPTER XCIX
Chefoo to Japan 263
CHAPTER C
The China Command 272
CHAPTER CI
The China Command 278
CHAPTER CII
Close of China Command 285
CHAPTER CIII
Peking 298
CHAPTER CIV
Homeward Bound 311
CHAPTER CV
Last Visit to the Straits 316
CHAPTER CVI
Some Farewell Notes 321
INDEX 337
ILLUSTRATIONS
SUBJECT ARTIST PAGE
“Sibuko had had his Quietus” _E. Caldwell_ Frontispiece
Part of my Galley’s Crew _Nina Daly_ 3
Map--Northern China, with Coast
of Siberia 5
A Malay Kampong _Photo by Dr. Johnstone_ 11
In Bornean Jungle ” ” 12
Whampoa _Photograph_ 13
Suspicious Junks _Sir Oswald Brierly_ 21
_Forte_ at Rio ” ” 43
My Middle Watch _J. W. Houghton_ 53
A Right and Left Shot _E. Caldwell_ 59
Commodore Oliver Jones _Nina Daly_ 129
Map--Eastern Archipelago 142
Sir Rutherford Alcock _Photograph_ 143
Sir Harry Parkes ” 148
Crossing a River in Japan _Commodore Oliver Jones_ 161
Lord Charles Scott _Nina Daly_ 170
Map--Northern China, with Coast
of Siberia 193
May and Webb _Photograph_ 248
Mrs. Alt ” 274
The Prince who made the Omelette ” 305
“The Little Admiral” _Hong Kong_ “Punch” 314
Jack Rodyk _Photograph_ 319
Last of the _Rodney_, 1884 ” 323
Duke of Buccleuch ” 327
Admiral of the Fleet, The Hon. Sir _Sketched at The Albany_
Henry Keppel, G.C.B., D.C.L. _by Nina Daly_ 335
CHAPTER LXVI
FATSHAN CREEK
[Sidenote: 1857. May 30.]
The time had arrived that the Admiral had arranged for the destruction
of the Chinese Fleet. Prince Victor of Hohenlohe, my late aide-de-camp
when I had the Naval Brigade in Crimea, was now with me as Commodore’s
Flag Lieutenant. My gig only held one sitter besides self. Among my
other boys I had on board the _Hong-Kong_ with Goodenough were Lord
Charles Scott, Victor Montagu, and Harry Stephenson. I left Commander
Turnour in the _Bittern_ to arrange my other boys. He had with him
Lieutenant Stanley Graham, Dupuis, Foster, Pilkington, and A. V. Paget.
In the _Sir Charles Forbes_ were Lieutenant Lord Gilford and Hardy
M‘Hardy. In the Macao Fort were Lieutenant W. F. Johnson and Captain
Magin, Lieutenant Owen, Royal Marines, Hon. F. G. Crofton, and H.
B. Russell, Master’s Assistant. My late youngster, “Jacko Hall,” in
_Childers_ brig was now Flag Captain: a strictly religious man.
[Sidenote: June 1.]
Though everything was ready he had sufficient influence with our good
chief not to desecrate the Sabbath, and so deferred the attack until
Monday, the 1st of June, on which day I had the honour of leading the
boats of the Fleet in an attack on a strong force of the Imperialist
junks posted in two divisions in well-selected positions in the Fatshan
Creek. The following account is taken from a letter to my sister Mary:--
_Alligator_, CANTON RIVER,
_June 20, 1857_.
The three weeks of this month have been full of excitement. We
commenced on the first with as pretty a boat action as can be
imagined, though it may not be appreciated because it occurred
in distant China. From the heights the Fatshan Creek affair must
have been a beautiful sight. My broad pennant was hoisted on board
the _Hong-Kong_. The shallow water caused her to ground; she
would otherwise have been in front. Took with me Prince Victor of
Hohenlohe, having previously been commanded by Her Majesty, through
Sir Charles Phipps, to take every care of him, and left Victor
Montagu, my proper gig’s mid, on board; but the lifting tide soon put
him in the midst. We took the lead. The first division of the Chinese
were attacked simultaneously by about 1900 men. I had not more than
a quarter of that number to attack the second division, which was
three miles higher up the river in a well-selected place, evidently
the _élite_ of their Fleet. The junks numbered twenty in one compact
row, mounting about fourteen guns each, removed to the side next us,
those in the stern and bow being heavy 32-pounders. Boarding nets
were dropped on our boats, but not until our men were alongside,
as it enabled them all the quicker to sever the cables connecting
the junks. _Raleigh’s_ boats well up, and did not require cheering
on. The Chinese fired occasional shots to ascertain exact distance,
but did not open their heaviest fire till we were within 600 yards.
Nearly the first poor fellow cut in two by a round shot was an
amateur, Major Kearney, whom I had known many years. We cheered, and
were trying to get to the front when a shot struck our boat, killing
the bowman. Another was cut in two. A third shot took another’s arm
off. Prince Victor leaned forward to bind up the man’s arm with his
neck-cloth. While he was so doing, a shot passed through both sides
of the boat, wounding two more of the crew; in short, the boat was
sunk under us.
[Illustration: _Part of my Galley’s Crew._]
Our man-of-war boats do not carry iron ballast, but are steadied
by “breakers” made to fit neatly under each thwart and filled with
fresh water. The tide rising, boats disabled, oars shot away, it
was necessary to re-form. I was collared and drawn from the water
by young Michael Seymour, a mate of his uncle’s flagship, the
_Calcutta_. We were all picked up except the dead bowman, whom the
faithful dog “Mike” would not leave. As we retired I shook my fist at
the junks, promising I would pay them off. We went to the _Hong-Kong_
and re-formed. I hailed Lieutenant Graham to get his boat ready,
as I would hoist the broad pennant for next attack in his boat. I
had no sooner spoken when he was down, the same shot killing and
wounding four others. Graham was one mass of blood, but it was from
a marine who stood next to him, part of whose skull was forced three
inches into another man’s shoulder. When we reached the _Hong-Kong_
the whole of the Chinese fire appeared to be centred on her. She was
hulled twelve times in a few minutes. Her deck was covered with the
wounded, who had been brought on board from different boats. From
the paddle-box we saw that the noise of guns was bringing up strong
reinforcements. The account of our having been obliged to retire
had reached them. They were pulling up like mad. The _Hong-Kong_
had floated, but grounded again. A bit of blue bunting was prepared
to represent a broad pennant, and I called out, “Let’s try the row
boats once more, boys,” and went over the side into our cutter
(_Raleigh’s_), in which was Turnour and the faithful coxswain,
Spurrier. At this moment there arose from the boats, as if every man
took it up at the same instant, one of those British cheers, so full
of meaning, that I knew at once it was all up with John Chinaman.
They might sink twenty boats, but there were thirty others who
would go ahead all the faster. It was indeed an exciting sight. A
move among the junks! They were breaking ground and moving off, the
outermost first! This the Chinese performed in good order, without
slacking fire. Then commenced an exciting chase for seven miles. As
our shot told they ran mostly on to the mud banks, and their crews
forsook them. Young Cochrane in his light gig got the start of me,
but, having boarded a war junk, John Chinaman did not wait to receive
him properly, but preferred mud on the other side. Seventeen junks
were overtaken and captured. Three only escaped. Before this last
chase my poor Spurrier was shot down. I saw his bowels protruding,
with my binoculars in the middle, as he lay in the bottom of the
boat, holding my hand. He asked if there was any hope. I could only
say, “Where there is life there is hope,” but I had none! He was
removed into another boat, and sent to the hospital ship. Strange to
say, the good Crawford served him up, and the Admiral’s last letter
from Hong-Kong states that Spurrier hoped to return to his duty in
a few days.
[Illustration: Map--Northern China, with Coast of Siberia]
* * * * *
Words fail me, on looking back to this stirring day, to express my
gratitude that I was allowed to take part in this action. When my ship
was lost, I felt as if my day was done. But fate was kind, and Fatshan
Creek gave me another chance in the service I ardently loved.
The following proclamation, by the Chinese Admiral Yeh, was found in
one of the captured junks after Fatshan:--
Liang, subaltern in charge of the Tan chau[1] Station of the
Kwang Tung Province, whose name is noted for the rank of captain,
with authority meanwhile to wear the button of that rank, makes a
communication.
[1] In Hai-nan.
“I am in receipt of a despatch from the Governor General Yeh, to the
following effect:--
“‘Whereas the barbarian outlaws[2] have not as yet submitted, and the
nature of these rebels is not to be fathomed, the officers and men of
the different vessels stationed at P’ing-chau[3] must stand well and
strictly on their guard, so as to be ready at all points, and prevent
any mishap. It is my duty, therefore, to send orders at once to you,
on receipt of which you will, in obedience thereto, immediately
confer with the other officers associated with you on this service,
and with them set an example in concerting proper measures of control
and precaution on board your respective vessels. You will continue
without distinction of day or night to patrol constantly, as a
shuttle moves in the loom, and to make observation assiduously and
with secrecy. The soldiers and braves under your command must on no
account land, or leave their vessels; and if there be the slightest
movement on the part of the barbarians, you must make for Sam-shan
and open fire upon them, cutting off and slaying ruthlessly. If
any one ruin the undertaking by venturing, be it ever so little,
to be slack or indifferent, the officer commanding shall be held
responsible; no mercy shall be shown him. Courage in the engagement
shall be liberally rewarded. Haste in fear! Haste in earnest!’
[2] _Fi_, vagabonds, rebels, or any lawless persons.
[3] Between Sam-shan and Fat-shan.
“In obedience to the above I write to every other of the officers in
charge of vessels. In addition to this it is my duty to write also to
you; I accordingly write and request that you will in no particular
depart from the instructions of His Excellency.
“A necessary communication addressed to the officer in charge of the
Shun-on Li junk.
“Hien Fung, 7th year, 5th moon, 8th day (29th May, 1857).”
CHAPTER LXVII
VISIT SARAWAK
[Sidenote: 1857. June 5.]
Master and self tried by court-martial on board the _Sybille_ for the
loss of the _Raleigh_.
[Sidenote: June 12.]
The hull of my poor _Raleigh_ advertised for sale, to take place on
Monday 29th. Who would have believed it! Commander-in-Chief appointing
us by commission, dated yesterday, to the _Alligator_.
[Sidenote: Canton River, June 14.]
_Sunday._--My birthday. Enter my forty-ninth year--a day on which one
no longer cares to be congratulated. Went up in _Hong-Kong_ as far as
Second Bar, where _Tribune_ and _Highflyer_ are.
[Sidenote: June 15.]
Proceeded to Macao Fort; found they had made a prize of a mandarin junk
laden with tea.
[Sidenote: June 16.]
Returned as far as Second Bar and met Sampson. No permission from Chief
to ascend Anninghoy Creek.
[Sidenote: June 18.]
Made preparations for capture of the Chucupee Fort. The Celestials,
however, mizzled on our approach. Took possession and left Edgell with
_Tribune_ in charge.
[Sidenote: June 20.]
Anniversary of Her Majesty’s Accession. Dressed ships. At noon fired
Royal salutes the whole length of the Canton River.
[Sidenote: June 30.]
Shifted berth to below Second Bar, taking old _Alligator_ up. Dined
with Sir Robert M‘Clure of North-West Passage celebrity in _Esk_.
[Sidenote: July 20.]
Friend “Thomas,” Prince Victor, and self took departure for Dent’s
comfortable quarters at Macao, on board the _Firmee_. Found poor
Cleverly still confined to bed. Met a clerk of Dent’s House, who wears
a moustache, and looks a muff.
[Sidenote: July 21.]
Macao better climate than Hong-Kong. Thomas, Prince Victor, and I dined
at Endicott’s.
[Sidenote: July 26.]
Heard of the untimely death of poor young Foster, which took place on
board the _Fury_ off Macao Fort. By _Firmee_ to Hong-Kong and Dent’s
bungalow. Visit from St. George Foley.
[Sidenote: July 30.]
Returned by _Firmee_ to Macao, meeting Admiral there in _Coromandel_,
who informed me of the little chance I had of becoming second in
command, as far as Sir Charles Wood was concerned.
[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]
Mail in from England. Ascertained from Commander-in-Chief that Sir
Charles Wood at Admiralty disapproved of my broad pennant being hoisted
after loss of _Raleigh_. Decided on going home.
[Sidenote: Aug. 23.]
The worthy Judge Hulme gave me a farewell dinner. Parting dinner at
Dent’s. William Dent over from Macao.
[Sidenote: Hong-kong, Aug. 25.]
Took leave of my good friends the Dents. Also the kind Admiral.
Embarked on board _Formosa_, P. and O. steamer, for passage to England,
with option of landing and coming on when and how I like. Flagship
manning rigging and cheering on passing. My _Raleigh’s_ officers on
board, with others, to wish me good-bye!!!
* * * * *
[Sidenote: P. and O. _Formosa_, Aug. 26.]
Once more on the wide and open sea, but in the novel position of
passenger. Dr. and Mrs. Parker and my worthy friend and old shipmate
Crawford of the party.
[Sidenote: Sept. 4.]
10 A.M.--Arrived in New Harbour, Singapore. Kindly taken in by
Blundell at Government House. Read Clarence Paget’s friendly
explanation of my recall in the House of Commons.
[Sidenote: Singapore, Sept. 5.]
Found Charlie Grant, wife and child, going to Sarawak.
[Sidenote: Sept. 6.]
Dined with the Blundells--their daughters, Jane and Anne, particularly
nice girls.
[Sidenote: Sept. 7.]
_Emperor_ steam yacht in the Roads requiring a foremast--time for her
to take me to Sarawak and return while mast getting ready. Pleasant and
convenient arrangement. News from India; slight improvement, but Delhi
still untaken.
[Sidenote: Sept. 8.]
Captain Sidney Grenfell, senior officer in Malacca Straits, cancelled
the orders already given. The Emperor of Japan’s yacht is not to go
with me to Borneo! There is a difference between being _in_ and _out_
of office.
[Sidenote: Sept. 9.]
Dined with Colonel Liardet at the mess of 21st N.I.
[Sidenote: Sept. 10.]
Lord Elgin arrived from Calcutta in _Ava_, P. and O. Co’s steamer.
Breakfasted with Harvey, meeting Greenshields and Paterson, with their
wives.
[Sidenote: Sept. 11.]
Many good fellows in Lord Elgin’s staff, George Fitzroy one of them.
Dined at home (Government House) to meet Lord Elgin.
[Sidenote: Sept. 12.]
Mail in from England. Turnour and Prince Victor promoted. I senior
captain on the list. Many letters of congratulation on Fatshan Creek.
Met Lord Elgin and party at dinner.
[Sidenote: Sept. 13.]
Embarked on board Emperor of Japan’s yacht.
[Sidenote: Sept. 15.]
Rounded Taujong Datu. In evening anchored off Taujong Poe.
[Illustration: _A Malay Kampong._]
CHAPTER LXVIII
SARAWAK--INDIA--ENGLAND
[Sidenote: 1857. Sarawak, Sept. 16.]
Piloted the yacht as far as the Quop. Up in the gig to Sarawak. How
altered! Extended but not improved in appearance. Miss the attap roofs;
tiles look heavy. Miss the jungle, and, most of all, the Rajah, who is
at Brunei.
[Sidenote: Sept. 17.]
Brooke Brooke and Charlie Grant are here with their wives, and each
owns a child. How many happy associations of bygone days. Must wait
Rajah’s return. Dine with the Bishop. Took a stroll in the jungle with
Alderson’s rifle. Jungle too magnificent. Found the walking bad, and
the gun heavy, to say nothing of the wood-leeches that adhered to and
feasted off my legs, in spite of my trousers being tied like bloomers
round the ankles.
[Sidenote: Sept. 19.]
Took an early walk over two miles of the road cut through the jungle.
Somewhat checked by Chinese outbreak. Plenty of wild pig about, but
difficult to get at.
[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]
Went to church. Service performed by Bishop, with three assistants.
Singing by native Christianized children wonderfully good. Young Brooke
and I dining with the Bishop--a good fellow, without guile or humbug.
[Illustration: _In Bornean Jungle._]
[Sidenote: Sept. 21.]
Crossed the river to see a man-eating alligator just caught, length 12
ft. 6 in. Astonishing the ease with which the Malay kris cuts through
the thick skin between the joints along the neck and tail of the brute.
Started with Charlie Grant, Alderson, and Watson in an excursion up the
river by P.M. tide.
[Sidenote: Sept. 22.]
Grant having put us up in his bungalow, where he is about to build a
fort and assume the command of that district, we started in afternoon
on our deer-shooting excursion, getting as far as the Singy Hill Dyaks,
where we slept in their “scullery.” Unclean animals these Dyaks.
[Sidenote: Sept. 23.]
A forenoon walk took us some four or five miles to a hut near the deer
ground. In afternoon, before sunset, we went out in two parties. Saw
some large red deer; stalked near and shot a doe.
[Illustration: _Whampoa._]
[Sidenote: Sept. 24.]
Long walk of ten miles in the hottest sun, and roughest ground. Back to
boat. On arrival at bungalow, heard of Rajah’s return to his capital.
Started alone after dinner for Sarawak to join him. Found Brooke in
great force; nearly five years since we met; he altered, but not so
much as I expected, considering smallpox and what else he has gone
through.
[Sidenote: Sept. 29.]
Embarked on board the _Sir James Brooke_ on return to Singapore.
Farewell, Sarawak. May you prosper as you so well deserve!
[Sidenote: Oct. 1.]
Arrived in Singapore. Governor being absent at Penang, put up at
Whampoa’s, and how comfortable the good fellow made me!
[Sidenote: Oct. 2.]
Waited on by a deputation of the merchants to invite me to an
entertainment. Grand dinner given by the residents at the London Hotel.
Their kindness preventing my responding as I wished.
[Sidenote: Oct. 4.]
Afternoon agreeably passed at Angus’s small bungalow, where Whampoa,
“Thomas,” Briggs, and Harrison dined.
[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]
Dined with Napier. Anniversary of his wedding, at which I was present
thirteen years ago.
[Sidenote: Oct. 6.]
Mail steamer coming in, decided on going on. Find myself on flag list,
also recommended for the K.C.B. 4 P.M., embarked on board _Cadiz_, mail
steamer.
[Sidenote: Penang, Oct. 8.]
1.40 P.M., arrived at Penang. Dined with old friend Lewis, having
called on Blundell and the recorder, Sir Benson Maxwell. On board at 6;
_Cadiz_ under weigh.
[Sidenote: Galle, Oct. 15.]
Arrived at Galle before 8 o’clock. Took rooms on shore, but as the
P. and O. agent was not inclined to let us proceed by way of Bombay
without extra payment, accepted an offer to go to Bombay in _Madras_
hired transport. Packed up and off again by sunset.
[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]
Every attention paid to our comfort on board _Madras_. Captain Jenkins
of the Indian Navy most kind.
[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]
10 P.M., came to in Bombay Harbour.
[Sidenote: India, Oct. 20.]
Landed after breakfast, having received an invitation to take up my
abode with Captain and Mrs. George Wellesley, he in charge of the
Bombay Marine. They had a sweet little girl I called the “Râni.” Sir
Hugh Rose was here on his way to the Mutiny, having already been home
since the Crimea. He was staying with the Governor, Lord Elphinstone,
on the hills at Matheran, where I joined them later. Came up, too,
with our invalided Doctor Crawford, who found his brother here, a
magistrate, with whom I had a good dinner. We went by train to see the
wonderful elephant caves with fittings that date two thousand years
before the birth of our Saviour.
[Sidenote: Oct. 30.]
Kindly welcomed by Lord Elphinstone. So glad to have a few days with
Hugh Rose. Pleasant party, consisting of Captain Colborn and staff.
Climate delightful. Blankets pleasant. No mosquitoes.
[Sidenote: Oct. 31.]
At breakfast appeared remainder of staff, Doctor Peel and Colonel Bate.
Rode with Governor in cool of evening. Such varied and magnificent
scenery! Rode some eight miles without a hill!
[Sidenote: Nov. 1.]
Early ride in other direction with Colonel Russell. Matheran such a
nice place. Found Harry Parker located on the hill with wife and two
children; he came to ride and dine.
[Sidenote: Bombay, Nov. 2.]
Returned by 8.30 train to Bombay. Wellesley and I to dine with
Commander Jenkins and officers of Indian Marine.
[Sidenote: Nov. 3.]
Wellesley and I to call on Governor. Among letters by the mail,
received the following from my brother-in-law Stephenson.
ROOKSBURY, FAREHAM, HANTS,
_September 20, 1857_.
MY DEAR HARRY--You are an Admiral and a K.C.B.; that rejoices my
heart.
I transcribe for your information what has occurred in this matter,
as it will please you, in some points.
[Sidenote: Copy of Letter to Lord Panmure.]
_August 29, 1857._
It is with very great reluctance and some pain that I request your
careful attention to this statement, and that you will favour me
with an interview.
The matter of painful grievance is this--
A public, professional, and personal disparagement, I may say
_dishonour_, has been inflicted upon Captain Keppel, R.N., in
withholding from him the K.C.B. of the Baltic.
There exists at the Admiralty a minute of more than twelve years
standing, “that he was entitled to the C.B. for services performed
in the China Seas under Admiral Parker and Sir Hugh Gough, G.C.B.”
Keppel gave up the command of the finest ship in the navy,
_St. Jean d’Acre_, to serve in the trenches. His predecessor,
Lushington, in the command of the Naval Brigade before Sebastapol,
upon giving up his command was gazetted on the 10th July 1855.
“Captain Stephen Lushington, R.N. to the K.C.B.”
He was not previously a C.B.
Keppel from that time to the fall of Sebastapol commanded that
Brigade. The General and the Admiral Commanding-in-Chief in their
despatches eulogised the services of Keppel in the highest terms of
praise.
He commanded at the fall of Sebastapol, which was the crowning
victory of the campaign.
Lord Lyons _told me_ that the French could not have taken
Sebastapol but for Keppel’s well-directed fire.
His rank of captain is not sufficient excuse. Lushington was
gazetted as captain, and when the distribution of the honours were
gazetted there was one captain his senior and one his junior K.C.B.
(I have had a correspondence with Panmure and Sir Charles Wood upon
this subject.)
I regret, and it is with painful regret I state it, that I can only
collect from Wood the “stet pro ratione voluntas,” and that not
very courteously given--but let that pass.
The Government had an historical name, a great naval reputation, in
Keppel’s case. I beg to challenge contradiction to my statement.
Keppel has added to his naval fame, he ranks among the bravest and
ablest captains in the British Fleet.
It cannot be said of him that he has received any _honour_ for his
distinguished services in the chief command of the Naval Brigade.
Many officers, when the list was published, and since the peace,
and the widows of officers who never saw a gun fired, have
received the K.C.B. who have no claim superior to his; do not
misunderstand me, that I express any disapprobation that such
distribution has been made, I only wish to express the pain I
feel--that services less than his have been considered by the
Government as deserving of a higher reward.
The Government intends to place before the public men deserving of
its respect when these honours are conferred.
In giving to the immediate predecessor in the same command and
before the final victory the K.C.B., and withholding it from
Keppel, the Government inflicts a stigma on Keppel as being
unworthy to receive that which is bestowed upon his immediate
predecessor.
I do assure you that extreme surprise and regret are freely
expressed by the highest, the ablest, and by a numerous body of the
navy at this unmerited stigma.
Keppel does not know of my writing this letter to you. I have known
him from a child. I am deeply pained at the publick disparagement.
The recent demonstration at Portsmouth shows the estimation in
which he is held by both services. Why should the Government ignore
his merit?
Will you, as an old friend, give me some explanation?
On 27th August I received the following from Panmure:--
“MY DEAR STEENIE--The only bone between us is removed. I have taken
the Queen’s pleasure in making Harry Keppel K.C.B.--Yours
(Signed) PANMURE.”
God bless you, my dear Harry.
Ever your most devoted brother,
HY. FRED. STEPHENSON.
[I hope I may be excused for inserting this letter, but I can honestly
declare that I had forgotten its existence until the present moment,
27th June 1898, when in turning over a heap of bygone manuscripts I
came across it by accident.
H. K.]
[Sidenote: Nov. 3.]
Took leave of my kind host and hostess. 4 P.M., embarked on board
_Madras_ (P. and O.) hired transport; weighed at sunset.
* * * * *
Left the _Madras_ at Suez by rail to Cairo; wheels running on inverted
iron saucers about five feet in diameter. Embarked at Alexandria on
board P. and O. _Ripon_ for Southampton. Among passengers was Mrs.
Moir, the widow of a doctor who had been killed by the mutineers, six
hundred miles up country. She lost one of her children in her flight,
but found it at Calcutta in the care of a friend who had picked the
child up on the road. Lieutenant Campbell was also a passenger. He had
made a wonderful escape from the mutineers at Fyzabad. The mutiny and
its horrors, hairbreadth escapes of our friends, the courage of the
English women, and the heroic work of Colin Campbell, Henry Havelock,
Outram, Windham, and many more gallant soldiers, was the only subject
of conversation on board the steamer.
[Sidenote: Dec. 6.]
On December 6 arrived at Southampton. Joined invalid wife at Bognor.
[Sidenote: Dec. 27.]
At Holkham; where we remained until end of year.
CHAPTER LXIX
ENGLAND
[Sidenote: 1858. Jan. 1.]
After a few days between brother Edward and friend Eyre we arrived
in London. Brother Stephenson, as deputy-ranger, placed the lodge in
Hyde Park at my disposal, which exactly suited the poor invalid. The
approaching wedding of the Princess Royal with Prince Frederick William
of Prussia caused the early winter months to be unusually gay. I hardly
like to mention the names of those who were kind to me under the
delusion that I had taken care of their sons in China.
[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
Was at the state ball, Buckingham Palace, previous to the royal
wedding, which took place on 25th.
[Sidenote: Feb. 11.]
Dined with Her Majesty, Buckingham Palace.
[Sidenote: Feb. 12.]
Dined with Rajah Brooke.
[Sidenote: Feb. 21.]
The hunting season was now in full force. Having invested with Tilbury
for the hire of a couple of horses, “Alice” and “General,” with groom,
at £30 a month, he to replace lame ones; off to my nephew Edward Coke,
owner of Longford in Derbyshire. Determined frost, giving me time to
examine horses; both appeared well up to my weight, and good jumpers.
[Sidenote: Feb. 26.]
Wenny Coke put in an appearance. Frost continued the next ten days,
making me wish Mr. Tilbury had the horses in his own keeping.
[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]
Change of wind, but none of weather.
[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]
Rode Alice to Ingestre. Kindly welcomed by my old friend Shrewsbury.
Took up my quarters. Walter Talbot staying here. Fine old place this
Ingestre--peacocks about.
[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]
Taken to dine with the High Sheriff, P. Williams, at Stafford.
[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]
Ditto weather. Rode General with Walter Talbot to Bifield, Lord
Bagot’s. Cokes there, and Grosvenors--Lady Constance, Di Coke, very
pretty.
[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]
Returned to London.
[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]
Dined with Admiral Rous, a pleasure often enjoyed. His parties were
always sporting, I never missed a race within reasonable distance. My
good elder brother could not understand why I was so fond of “seeing a
fool in red riding after a rogue in yellow.”
[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]
Was getting into the train at Portsmouth, when my faithful old
coxswain, Spurrier, stopped me with, “Think I have found Lord Gilford’s
watch.” During the two minutes of the train’s starting, he explained
that last evening his wife was in one of the numerous haberdasher shops
in Portsea; a well-dressed woman came in and wanted a smart yacht shirt
for her friend. On being shown the usual seaman’s shirt, she wanted
something much smarter; her man had a gold watch and chain that he was
proud of, and that Admiral Keppel had given him a cheque for £10 only a
few days before. Poor women! how fast their little tongues will run.
[Illustration: _Suspicious Junks._]
The giving the cheque I perfectly remember, as well as the man I
gave it to. To go back for a few months before the little affair of
the Fatshan Creek. The splendid crew of the _Raleigh_ were divided
into cruising boats and captured many suspicious Chinese junks, some
laden with cargo; but owing to the scarcity of interpreters they were
generally condemned and their property confiscated. In the end the
prizes amounted to a sum of money: not much, if divided among all the
ships, but a nice little bonus for the captors. On my being promoted
and ordered home, the captors of strings of pice agreed that I should
take charge of the money, converted from pice into sterling bills,
which I was to divide, as I thought proper, among the wounded or most
deserving characters invalided home. A man belonging to my wounded
boat’s crew was one of the recipients.
On arriving in London I went to Lord Clanwilliam’s house in Belgrave
Square and ascertained the number of the gold chronometer watch he
had given to his son on leaving England. The bill, receipted, was
soon found. I then had to find my friend Sir Richard Mayne, the Chief
of Police. He found an intelligent detective, to whom I gave my late
coxswain’s address at Portsea.
[Sidenote: April.]
Three days afterwards, leaning over the rails in Hyde Park, a
suspicious-looking character, whose appearance I did not quite approve,
rapped me on the shoulder and beckoned me to join him. Great was my
relief when he informed me he had Lord Gilford’s watch. Getting him
to accompany me to Belgrave Square, on the way he informed me that he
had gone to Spurrier’s house; they went together to the shop where the
girl had bought the shirt, but they had seen no more of her. Walking
back, although dusk, Mrs. Spurrier spotted the girl on the opposite
side of the street. The detective accidentally placed himself, in a way
they have, and seeing a respectable girl asked if she had relations
in the Navy--the Admiralty had sent him down to seek proper objects
for employment. I need not say that in a few minutes he had the state
and condition of the man with the yacht shirt. His respectable parents
lived on the Isle of Wight, etc. The next day detective found his way
to the parents’ house and had an interview. On his way back he met
Jack in the best of spirits rolling along; after a few minutes’ talk
the detective abstracted the watch saying, “No. 8471: the one I was
looking for.” Two assistants crossed over from the opposite side. By
this time we were at Belgrave Square. Lord Clanwilliam much pleased;
also poor Lady Clanwilliam, who was an invalid, but her pleasure was
followed by distress as to what would become of the poor wounded man.
I proposed to her Ladyship that I should return the watch to the poor
fellow and her regrets for the trouble she had given him! When I got
below, the detective told me that the man would be brought up before
the magistrates on the Wednesday following. If no witnesses appeared he
would be discharged. A tenner from Lord Clanwilliam to the detective
ended the business. Curious that a watch stolen in China, April 20,
1857, should have been recovered by a detective in Portsea in the same
month of this year.
[Sidenote: April 5.]
Visit to Lord George Lennox at his “Bleak House,” Southsea. While
there, was invited to the charming Goodwood for a few days.
[Sidenote: April 22.]
At United Service Club we entertained the Duke of Malakoff at dinner.
The _Raleigh’s_ crew had meanwhile arrived at Chatham. The dog, Mike,
in addition to his performance at Fatshan, was at the storming of
Canton, where he had a scaling-ladder to himself and wore two medals.
His appearance was enough to clear the battery; the Chinamen fled,
except those stopped by bullets. Lord Lansdowne was fond of dogs as
well as music. At his request had Mike brought up from Chatham, and
he was much admired. He had been given me by Captain Michael Quin,
hence his name, who was paying off while _Raleigh_ was fitting out
at Plymouth. Mike was unhappy away from a ship. He was returned to
Chatham, and attended working parties on shore: I had not the heart to
remove him. The months April, May, and June brought me into a society
to which I had been unaccustomed. Although I enjoyed it, it hardly
comes within a sailor’s life.
[Sidenote: May 10.]
Attended Her Majesty’s ball.
* * * * *
As the following is copied from an old engagement book and can interest
near relations only, I advise my readers to skip this and try next
chapter.
* * * * *
[Sidenote: June 1.]
My pretty niece Annie Garnier married Colonel Edward Newdigate.
[Sidenote: June 2.]
Cheery dinner at “The Ship,” Greenwich--Admiral Milne, James Blyth,
Charles Eden, and Colonel F. Campbell.
[Sidenote: June 3.]
Dined, Skinner’s Company.
[Sidenote: June 5.]
Lady Palmerston’s evening.
[Sidenote: June 6.]
Dined with Duchess of Richmond.
[Sidenote: June 7.]
Dined with Lady Downs.
[Sidenote: June 11.]
Dinner with Merchant Taylors.
[Sidenote: June 12.]
Dined with Sir John Thorolds. Evening, Duchess of Norfolk.
[Sidenote: June 15.]
70 Cranbury Park for Bibury Races, with Tom Chamberlain. Have not time
to describe the place here, but in it were four beautiful pictures
by Romney of Lady Hamilton. Chamberlain’s son was in the Balaklava
charge. On the retreat his horse was shot under him. He quietly took
the saddle off, put it on his head for a protection, and calmly walked
into camp. My sister Caroline, who was staying with her father-in-law
at Bishopstoke, wrote me about a pretty cottage for sale. On my
arrival there I found a small sylph swinging on the entrance gate, a
daughter of Mr. Peter Wells. I bought the place, with some good Italian
furniture, for £1500. There was a full-length picture by Swenton of
a beautiful lady, occupying one end of the dining-room: this was the
mother of my young friend Zöe on the gate (now Lady Brougham and Vaux).
The lady was one of a handsome family, such as artists delighted in;
the background of the picture was of trees, painted at Windsor Forest.
[Sidenote: May 16.]
Dined with H.R.H. Duke of Cambridge.
[Sidenote: May 20.]
Dined with Fred Gye, lessee of the Royal Italian Opera, Covent Garden.
At his charming house near the Thames one met a varied society--Prince
Leiningen, Prince and Princess Victor of Hohenlohe, the Countess
Gleichen, Meyerbeer, statesmen, authors, painters, singers, actors:
it was indeed a cheery centre. After dinner we always adjourned for
dessert to a glass room 120 feet long, delightfully cool in summer,
flowers and plants growing; the ladies left the table to sit further
away in this same room. Gye used to give me passes to the theatres.
I was one night arranging baskets of flowers between banks, where
fairies were supposed to be resting, when the curtain suddenly ran
up faster than I could get to the wings. But though he was a stern
disciplinarian “behind,” Gye forgave me.
Poor Gye’s terrible fate is fresh in my memory. He was shot
accidentally while on a visit to Lord Dillon, and died near the covert
side: sportsman that he was, he always wished to be buried in one. His
sons have all made their mark. The eldest, whom we used to call the
“Baron,” married Madame Albani and went on with operatic management.
Percy is a judge. Herbert went into the Navy and served on the China
station under me in 1869. Another son was in the Artillery. His
daughter, Clara, I often see.
* * * * *
[Sidenote: June 23.]
Dined with Lord Alfred Churchill.
[Sidenote: June 26.]
Evening, Lady Palmerston. Dinner, Sir Anthony Rothschild.
[Sidenote: June 28.]
Balls at Duchess of Hamilton’s and Lady Caroline Maxe’s.
[Sidenote: June 29.]
Dined with Sir William Middleton. Evening, Lady Pigot’s. During summer
had been improving my pretty, but small place at Bishopstoke, on the
bank of the river Itchen. The place suited me down to the ground. The
stabling, which I rebuilt, was perfection.
[Sidenote: June 30.]
Dinner with Mr. Newdigate at Blackheath.
[Sidenote: July 1.]
Dinner at Navy Club, entertaining First Lord.
[Sidenote: July 4.]
Luncheon, Duchess of Somerset. Dined with Lord Methven.
[Sidenote: July 5.]
Dinner with Duke of Newcastle. Evening party, Duchess of Manchester.
[Sidenote: July 6.]
Review at Aldershot.
[Sidenote: July 7.]
Lady Mayoress’s reception.
[Sidenote: July 8.]
Luncheon with Ranelagh. Dinner, Lord Sandwich. Evening, Lady Jersey.
[Sidenote: July 9.]
Early dinner, Lady de Clifford. Later to Cremorne Gardens.
[Sidenote: July 10.]
Lunch, Lady Shelley.
[Sidenote: July 11.]
Dinner Admiral Walcott. Party Lady Rokeby, and ball at Duchess of
Wellington’s.
[Sidenote: July 30.]
[Sidenote: Cherbourg, Aug. 5.]
Among friends I always received kind welcome on board Sir Thomas
Whichcote’s schooner yacht _Enchantress_. Towards the end of the season
I was with him at Cherbourg, where we had gone to witness the Naval
Fêtes, and the inauguration of the new railway. Her Majesty and the
Prince Consort arrived on the 4th August, accompanied by Lords of the
Admiralty and a brilliant staff. Received by the Emperor Napoleon III.
and Empress Eugenie. The next morning, at breakfast time, I took up the
newspaper and read the sudden death on 30th July, at the Earl of Fife’s
Seat, of my beloved brother-in-law, Stephenson.
To be alone in my grief, I landed and strolled by the side of the road
up the hill to the high ground. As if to distract my thoughts, I met
a French cavalry regiment marching up, their brass band playing “Rule
Britannia.” Was off by the 4 P.M. steamer to join my poor sister Mary,
who with her children was staying at Folkestone. The death had indeed
been sudden, heart complaint, while sitting up in bed.
[Sidenote: Sept.]
September found me shooting with Sir Thomas Whichcote at Ashwarby in
Lincolnshire.
[Sidenote: Ashwarby Park, Sept. 28.]
Beautiful day and lots of birds--wild, of course, they always are. With
our four guns bagged 180 partridges, 18 hares, 1 rabbit--making 199
head. Whichcote did things well; as kind a host as man could have. A
good hot luncheon. Ditto dinner. Very jolly.
[Sidenote: Sept. 29.]
Another fine day. Same party; bagged 204 partridges, 18 hares, 1
rabbit. Haunch of venison for lunch and other good things.
[Sidenote: Ashwarby, Sept. 30.]
Dirty weather with rain. Held up late, but high wind. Same party; 131
head of game. Much pleased at receiving a letter from Lord Palmerston
stating he had recommended me to Her Majesty for the appointment of
Groom-in-Waiting.
[Sidenote: Oct. 1.]
Better weather, but high wind. Still lots of birds. Same four guns; 200
partridges, 17 hares, 1 rabbit--218 head! Finish to four good days’
sport, to say nothing of the evening meal.
[Sidenote: Oct. 2.]
Party breaking up. Freke and I in dogcart to Lincoln. I to London.
[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]
Up from Portsmouth. Put up at Westbourne Terrace. There had been some
cases of smallpox near my chambers. Wandered about. Tabooed for fear of
infection.
[Sidenote: Oct. 18.]
By 11 A.M. train to Bishopstoke. Found sister Caroline and family at
the Dean’s. Forgot all about the smallpox and embraced the children!
[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]
Busy rearranging Bishopstoke.
[Sidenote: Oct. 23.]
By afternoon train to Southsea. Received by George Lennox at Bleak
House. Party to dinner. The good George Greys, etc.
[Sidenote: Oct. 24.]
Went over to Ryde by 12 o’clock boat. Back with George Lennox to see
the Michael-Seymours before dinner.
[Sidenote: Oct. 25.]
By 11 A.M. train to Bishopstoke. Dean off again to Rooksbury. Sleep
to-night in our own cottage.
[Sidenote: Oct. 27.]
By train to Southampton. Met George Lennox. Went on board _Pasha_, a
Sultan’s yacht, very gaudy. On board _Ripon_, starting for Alexandria
with Indian passengers. George Lennox back with me to Bishopstoke.
[Sidenote: Oct. 28.]
George Lennox off to Portsmouth, and I to Sir Francis Barings at
Stratton. Found Pelhams and Nevilles. Tom Baring and wife.
[Sidenote: Oct. 29.]
Should have had some good shooting had the leaves been off the trees.
Six guns; 110 head.
[Sidenote: Nov. 19.]
George Lennox and I in Gilman’s carriage to Winchester; great luncheon
at the Dean’s. Party there. Lord Palmerston from Broadlands. Garniers
from Rooksbury. Gilman taking us back to Bishopstoke. By train to
Portsmouth. Put up at George Lennox’s.
[Sidenote: Nov. 23.]
Business at Admiralty. Dined with Rodney Mundy’s mother; nice cheery
old lady.
[Sidenote: Nov. 24.]
By 4.30 train to Godstone. Found Rajah recovering from his sad
paralytic stroke.
[Sidenote: Nov. 25.]
Took early leave of Brooke. Returned to Bishopstoke.
[Sidenote: Nov. 26.]
Found invitation to dine at Broadlands; unluckily for yesterday.
[Sidenote: Nov. 29.]
Colliers to dine.
[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]
By 3 P.M. train to London.
[Sidenote: Dec. 1.]
To Westbourne Terrace. Seconded resolution made by Bishop of Oxford
on Gospel in China. Meeting at Willis’s Rooms. Much amused at Strand
Theatre. Our Marie Wilton a little darling.
[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]
By Great Western to Berkeley Castle, to Admiral Sir Maurice Berkeley.
Extraordinary old place. Not all the conveniences of modern houses,
but made up for in association. Castle wall left as knocked down by
Cromwell.
[Sidenote: Dec. 4.]
Mounted by Sir Maurice. Well appointed pack. Huntsmen and whips, etc.,
dressed in yellow velveteen. Best run of the season; I mounted on “Lord
William.” Mrs. Berkeley and Mrs. A’Court to dinner.
[Sidenote: Sunday, Dec. 5.]
Afternoon, inspected twenty-seven good hunters. Hounds out for a walk.
Handsome pack.
[Sidenote: Dec. 7.]
By special train. Hounds and all, horses, servants, etc., to
Gloucester. Meet about five miles beyond. Mounted on Pearce’s small
black horse. Good hunter.
[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]
Capital mount by Armytage on one of his “jobs” from Carey. First-rate
run and I in good position throughout. Baring of Cheltenham arrived.
[Sidenote: Dec. 9.]
Baring, Armytage, and I hedgerow shooting. Sport not much. Mrs. and
Miss Canning arrived; very tall. Mrs. Berkeley charming.
[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]
Shooting to-day something more like; plenty of foxes too.
[Sidenote: Dec. 11.]
Mount again on Pearce’s little black horse. Carried me right well
throughout a longish day, one fall into a lane. Have greatly enjoyed my
visit to Berkeley Castle.
[Sidenote: Dec. 13.]
By early train to get across to Peterboro’ and Huntingdon. On a visit
to Hinchingbrook. Colonels Knox and Vyse and wife, Annie Lady Montagu,
and niece Emily Leeds, etc.
[Sidenote: Dec. 14.]
Shooting order of the day. Six guns; 189 head. Duke of Manchester good
shot. The charming Duchess came to dine.
[Sidenote: Dec. 15.]
Mounted by Lord Sandwich to meet Lord Fitz-William’s hounds. Fog too
thick to draw a fox. Provoking--uncommon well mounted. The Manchesters
left.
[Sidenote: Dec. 18.]
Up early, mounted by Lord Sandwich, to breakfast at Kimbolton. Lord
Cowper there. To meet the Oakley. Did not find till late. Left to ride
22 miles home.
[Sidenote: Dec. 20.]
Mounted by Sandwich to meet the Cambridgeshire. Nasty wooded country.
Foxes, but no getting away. Rode to station and returned to London by
1.30. Dined with Rokeby. Met the Manchesters.
[Sidenote: Dec. 23.]
By 3 P.M. train to Bishopstoke; lost my purse between station and home,
containing £9: 10s. Horrid bore!
[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]
Spent Christmas at Bishopstoke.
CHAPTER LXX
ENGLAND--GROOM-IN-WAITING
[Sidenote: 1859. Jan. 1.]
Saw the New Year in at the Southampton Yacht Club House with George
Lennox, having dined on board Turner’s yacht.
[Sidenote: Jan. 19.]
Received enclosed:--
(COPY.)
BROADLANDS, _18th January 1859_.
MY DEAR ADMIRAL KEPPEL--If you should happen to be disengaged on
Thursday, would you come over to us on that day and stay and help to
beat a cover on Friday.--Yours sincerely,
(Signed) PALMERSTON.
[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
To Broadlands.
[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
At Broadlands, shooting.
[Sidenote: Feb. 4.]
Dined with the Gilmans, meeting my old friend Pereira of Dent’s House,
Hong-Kong.
[Sidenote: Feb. 11.]
Wife and I by train to Winchester. The good Dean sending to meet us.
Party to dinner.
[Sidenote: Feb. 19.]
To Winchester to appeal against property being assessed at £80, when it
was £50. Gained appeal.
[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Feb. 21.]
Augustus Leeds brought over the sad news of Lady Sandwich’s sudden
death. Sad indeed! Planted a couple of deodars on bank of river.
[Sidenote: Feb. 28.]
Train to Winchester. Dean entertaining judges and grand jury at dinner.
[Sidenote: London, Mar. 2.]
Dressed at my tailor’s; attended Her Majesty’s levée.
[Sidenote: Mar. 3.]
By train to Sleaford and Ashwarby--Whichcote sending for me. Got two
hunters from Percival at Lincoln. Welby to stop.
[Sidenote: Ashwarby, Mar. 4.]
Meet the Duke of Rutland’s hounds at Haverholm, occupied by the Dowager
Lady Winchilsea, the beautiful Fanny Rice. Short runs with two foxes.
Bad scenting day; ground dry and hard. Got one cropper!
[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]
No hunting. After luncheon another walk. Looked over ground, where some
rasping jumps had been taken.
[Sidenote: Mar. 6.]
Marquis of Tweeddale kindly placed his horses at my disposal.
[Sidenote: Mar. 7.]
Hounds met at Glinn, Welby’s place. The Drummonds and many friends
there. Killed two foxes; but a bad scenting day.
[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]
Meet at Fulbeck--Reverend Fane’s. Rode Percival’s horse, wilful brute;
though a good jumper.
[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]
Meet at Turner’s. Mount from Lord Tweeddale, in addition to my
Percival; a short run in afternoon.
[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]
Took leave of Tom Whichcote, etc. He appears to have everything a man
could wish.
[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]
Arrived at North Creake for wedding. Miss North and her sister
Catherine, and their cousin, Sara North, splendid girl of seventeen.
[Sidenote: North Creake, Mar. 15.]
Party increased by George and Augusta Keppel. Twenty-two to dinner.
Everything well arranged.
[Sidenote: Mar. 16.]
Auspicious day arrived--sun shining, fourteen bridesmaids. Edward
performed. Stand-up breakfast, seventy or eighty attending.
[Sidenote: Mar. 17.]
General dispersion. Took up abode with Astleys: she charming. Two Miss
Lee-Warners and Bobby Hammond to dinner.
[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]
Mounted by Astley with Lord Hastings’ harriers: very good fun. Mrs.
Astley’s riding first-rate: she does everything well.
[Sidenote: Mar. 24.]
Train to Diss. Met there by brother Edward. Dogcart to Quidenham;
friend Edward and Mrs. Eyre to meet me at dinner.
[Sidenote: London, Mar. 25.]
Eyre and wife taking me to Harling Station. To London. Dressed at Four
Swans, and dined at Fishmongers’ Hall. Had to return thanks for the
Navy. Put up at friend Dunn’s, Lowndes Square.
[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]
Dined with Clarence Paget.
[Sidenote: Mar. 29.]
By 11 train, meeting Mark Wood at King’s Cross. To Grantham. Walked
to Syston. Party, Lord and Lady Middleton, two Miss Reynardsons, Miss
Beaumont and brother, Reynardson, Wood, Gibbs, Hillyard and his wife,
Cole, Fox, and Whichcote. Jolly. Cook, first-rate.
[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]
A regular fall of snow. Party hunting nevertheless. Grantham Hunt Ball
good fun. Went with the Misses Fane.
[Sidenote: Mar. 31.]
Great meet of the Belvoir Hounds; with Thorolds in their brougham.
Mounted on a roarer, saw part of a very good run.
[Sidenote: April 1.]
Croxton Park Races. Show of vehicles from Syston. Box seat with
Reynardson on his drag. Races fair, and weather as usual. Bitter cold.
Picked up £15.
[Sidenote: April 2.]
Finish to an agreeable week at Syston.
[Sidenote: April 4.]
I never had time to attend to politics, but born of a Whig family
throw in my chance with kind friend and honest politician, Sir Francis
Baring. Stood with him for Portsmouth. After a week’s chaffing and
riotous living, I found myself at bottom of poll! The difference
between Whig and Tory now: one is dead, and the other extinct!
[Sidenote: May 30.]
At Lord Denbigh’s.
[Sidenote: June 1.]
With Dunne and party to the great Derby race. Won by Hawley’s “Musjid.”
Dressed and went to Her Majesty’s concert.
[Sidenote: June 3.]
On return from Epsom found at club telegraphic message of my wife’s
sudden illness. Arrived at Bishopstoke 11 P.M. The poor wife had a fit
at 6; unconscious since.
[Sidenote: June 4.]
A succession of fits during the day. My true friend Eyre here in answer
to telegraph.
[Sidenote: June 5.]
Georgina Crosbie arrived in evening an hour before the sad end.
[Sidenote: June 7.]
What could I have done without friend Eyre?
[Sidenote: June 9.]
The last sad ceremony performed by the Dean of Winchester in the Parish
Church. Her brother William and two sisters, my clergyman brother,
Edward and Reverend Edward Eyre attended, and the good Rajah Brooke had
a bouquet laid on the coffin.
[Sidenote: July 9.]
Welcome to Larling from friend Eyre.
[Sidenote: July 18.]
At Quidenham Parsonage with Edward.
[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]
Misfortunes never come singly. From Bombay hear of Sussex Stephenson’s
serious illness.
CHAPTER LXXI
IN WAITING
[Sidenote: 1859. Osborne, Sept. 22.]
First appearance as Groom-in-Waiting at Osborne. Her Majesty, with
the Prince Consort, had gone to Balmoral, leaving the younger Royal
children, Prince Leopold and Princess Beatrice, in charge of Lady
Caroline Barrington. Never was an Admiral who felt so proud of being a
groom. Lady Caroline came of a stately family. As we walked into dinner
I felt myself smaller than I really was.
[Sidenote: Sept. to Oct.]
Carriages and steamers were at her ladyship’s disposal; it was
interesting to see how quickly the charming young Prince learned to
acknowledge the sentries’ salutes as we passed.
[Sidenote: Oct. 4.]
Delightful as the land excursions were in that beautiful island, I felt
more at ease when her ladyship proposed a trip on board the _Fairy_
steam-yacht commanded by my friend D. Welch, who handled her as if she
had been a jolly-boat. We went into Southampton Docks at a pace which
puzzled me. Lady Caroline kindly proposed a trip in carriages up to
my pretty cottage at Bishopstoke, where I had the honour of providing
tea. H.R.H. the Duchess of Kent was residing at Norris Castle. Lady
Caroline and myself went three evenings in the week to make up a rubber
of whist. H.R.H. was the only person who always lost. We were paid in
the brightest shillings, polished for the occasion.
[Sidenote: Oct. 22.]
My term of waiting was only too soon over; I was relieved by Colonel
Cavendish.
[Sidenote: Windsor Castle, Dec. 27.]
I was again in waiting at Windsor Castle, having relieved Colonel
Kingscote. Adjoining me were Captain du Plat, Equerry to the Prince
Consort; and Captain George Henry Grey, Equerry to the Prince of
Wales; these young men were old friends and agreeable companions. I
took my two hunters and put them up at Windsor. Everything was new and
interesting to me. Late, when we retired, my friends the Equerries
kindly came to my room to enjoy their smoke. In the mornings we used to
assemble in the corridor, and there wait for orders, riding, shooting,
or whatever was going on.
One morning the Equerries were wanted to attend H.R.H., while I had
permission to amuse myself, which I did by a ride in Windsor Great
Park. It appeared that the Prince Consort, having bought some pictures
in London, wanted a fit place to hang them. Passing through the
Equerries’ rooms, H.R.H. came to mine. I was, as stated, out riding.
The Prince immediately smelt smoke, and remarked, “The little Admiral
told me he did not smoke.” My friends only smiled, H.R.H. was never
undeceived! Once, when riding was the order of the day, I rode my best
hunter. On crossing one of the streams, the Prince of Wales proposed
that I should try my horse over the river instead of the bridge. I got
over, but my horse made an over-reach and struck my right heel, which
gave me pain. It was in 1840, when my father was Master of the Horse,
that a boy was found concealed in a room adjoining Her Majesty’s. Since
then, it had been the custom, when Her Majesty was about to retire,
for the Groom-in-Waiting to precede, and see the coast clear. My foot
gave me pain, and I had taken up a spot in advance, when these horrid
Equerries, whom I had not forgiven about the smoke, picked me up, and
having planted me in the right place, disappeared. I made a proper bow
when Her Majesty passed, and almost forgave my playfellows about the
smoke! The Prince Consort had introduced the Christmas Tree, and we
used to dance the Old Year out and the New Year in, to the tune of the
“Old English.” When the clock struck twelve, the band suddenly struck
up “God Save the Queen.” Everybody was very hot, and everybody kissed
his partner except myself. I had the honour of dancing with Her Royal
Highness the Princess Louise.
CHAPTER LXXII
THE CAPE COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1860. Jan. 1.]
At Windsor Castle. Ladies-in-Waiting--Lady Caroline Barrington, Hon.
Mrs. Bruce, and Lady Ely, while the Maids of Honour were Hon. Beatrice
Byng and Hon. Emily Cathcart.
[Sidenote: Jan. 5.]
Shooting with the Prince Consort were the Prince of Wales and Duke
of Cambridge, while in attendance were Colonel F. H. Seymour,
Major-General Hon. R. Bruce, Captain George Grey, Colonel Clifton, and
myself. Earl de Grey was of the party.
[Sidenote: Jan. 10.]
Finished my turn in waiting by hunting with the Prince Consort’s
harriers.
[Sidenote: Jan. 17.]
To Berkeley Castle. Kind welcome from Sir Maurice and Lady Charlotte.
[Sidenote: Jan. 18.]
Hounds met at Sir G. Jenkins’s, who gave me a good breakfast. Woodland
country; plenty of foxes killed.
[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
Wild-goose shooting: novel and interesting, but hard work.
[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
Hunted from Berkeley Castle. Colonel “the giant” in great force.
[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]
Daily hunting; foxes often found in trees!
[Sidenote: Jan. 24.]
My appointment to Cape command. By rail to London; put up with sister
Mary Stephenson.
[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]
_Forte_, commissioned by Captain E. Turnour; Commander V. C. Buckley
joined. Officers and men joined by end of week. Ship being manned by
drafts from various ports; not allowed to enter seamen for ourselves.
[Sidenote: Feb. 11.]
Sunset, hoisted flag, white at mizzen.
[Sidenote: Feb. 12.]
Saluted flag of Commander-in-Chief, Vice-Admiral Edward Harvey. Issued
contract; made clothing according to recent regulations, hats included:
a mistake.
[Sidenote: March.]
Had some difficulty in getting Admiralty to exchange the heavy old
launches for the new forty-foot pinnaces which are now supplied to all
other ships. Considerable difference in the stowage of this ship and
that of the _Raleigh_.
[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]
Joined Marquis of Queensberry, naval cadet, and Mr. Stephenson, mid.
Dockyard people building a small poop for the accommodation of the
captain, secretary and flag-lieutenant--the poop not to show above the
hammock netting, and not to occupy more of upper deck than just abaft
the after gun. Screw to be raised as in line-of-battleships: the best
arrangement under all circumstances that could be made.
[Sidenote: Mar. 23.]
Cabins had already been fitted for the conveyance of Sir George Grey
and staff. An order to prepare cabins for Lady Grey and maid, coming so
late, deprived me of half my accommodation.
[Sidenote: April 3.]
In consequence of Her Majesty’s kind consideration, attended at Windsor
as Groom-in-Waiting.
[Sidenote: Windsor, April 5.]
Attended confirmation of Prince Alfred. Lord George Lennox as Lord of
Bedchamber to the Prince Consort.
[Sidenote: April 7.]
_Forte_ left Sheerness for Spithead. Cheered by the Norfolk Militia.
[Sidenote: April 10.]
Prince of Wales left for the Continent, attended by Hon. R. Bruce and
Captain George Grey.
[Sidenote: April 12.]
My little happy holiday over, Her Majesty kindly hoping to see me back.
Rejoined _Forte_ at Spithead and rehoisted flag. Salutes exchanged with
Admiral Commander-in-Chief Wm. Bowles, C.B. Was informed that on way
round from Sheerness a leak was discovered in the screw aperture.
[Sidenote: April 16.]
Steamed into harbour; secured alongside _Sultan_ hulk. Transported guns
forward and all heavy weight to discover the leak.
[Sidenote: April 20.]
Ship taken into steam basin, preparatory to being docked. In taking her
in, dockyard people managed to carry away jib-boom. No smoking allowed;
shifted ship’s company to _Victorious_ hulk.
[Sidenote: April 21.]
Hauled into No. 7 dock, dockyard people stopping leak.
[Sidenote: April 23.]
Hauled out of basin, only just in time, ship hung in entrance. Another
two minutes, and she must have grounded, as well as two three-deckers.
Sundry sheets of copper were rubbed off on port side. Obliged to heel
the ship to repair damage.
[Sidenote: April 27.]
Came to at Spithead.
[Sidenote: April 28.]
Noon, weighed, running for the Needles.
[Sidenote: April 29.]
10 P.M.--Came to in Plymouth Sound.
[Sidenote: Plymouth, April 30.]
Exchanged salutes with Commander-in-Chief, Vice-Admiral Sir Barrington
Reynolds, K.C.B. 3.30 P.M., having embarked His Excellency Sir George
and Lady Grey, Captains Speke and Grant, African travellers, friend
Boileau, and others, weighed and left the Sound.
[Sidenote: May 9.]
3 P.M.--Came to in Funchal Roads, Madeira. While steaming in exchanged
salutes 13 guns, with Flag-Officer Inman, whose flag, blue at the
mizzen, was flying on board United States corvette _Constellation_,
the first United States “Officer’s Flag” we had seen. Saluted also
the Portuguese flag with 21 guns, and English Consul Erskine on his
leaving the ship.
[Sidenote: May 12.]
Ship was visited by Lord and Lady Fortescue and family, also my kind
friend of long standing, the late Consul, Mr. Stoddard. As soon as they
were landed, weighed and made sail.
[Sidenote: May 24.]
Celebrated Her Majesty’s birthday by a dinner on the poop. At 8 P.M.
that celebrated old beast, Neptune, hailed the ship, burning lights,
etc., and then came on board amidst the usual downfall of water, and
promised to pay his respects on the morrow to all such as had not
before passed through his dominions, comprising three-fourths of those
on board. He then took his departure for the night, to the relief of
some and inconvenience of all, amidst fire and water-works, the light
of his car being visible astern for an hour afterwards.
[Sidenote: May 25.]
His Oceanic Majesty came on board and performed the usual ceremony.
[Sidenote: June 3.]
10 A.M.--Steamed into Rio de Janeiro harbour. Returned salute from
_Madagascar_. While running in, and after coming to, had to return and
exchange no end of salutes. Brazilian Flag, 21 guns; Admiral’s salute,
13; French man-of-war brig, 13; and Prussian Commodore, 13.
[Sidenote: Rio, June 4.]
Passengers disembarked and proceeded to Petropolis. _Tribune_, 31,
Captain Geoffrey Hornby, arrived from Pacific and exchanged salutes.
[Sidenote: June 7.]
Passengers returned. Weighed and stood out of Rio harbour.
[Sidenote: June 8.]
12.5 P.M.--Henry Hill, seaman, fell overboard while the ship was going
10 knots under sails and steam. Cutter fitted with Clifford’s admirable
apparatus for lowering was down in the shortest time and the man saved.
[Illustration: Forte _at Rio._]
[Sidenote: June 9.]
An untoward event occurred during the first watch. Under extreme
pressure from Captain Turnour and the surgeon, who stated that the
Governor would either commit suicide or murder his wife, I consented
to return to Rio Janeiro, and reached that port on the evening of the
12th. Next morning, having landed the Governor, Lady Grey, and maid,
sent an officer to know when His Excellency would be ready to embark.
He sent word he was then ready, and that if I would not write home what
had occurred he would not. I kept _my_ word.
[Sidenote: June 13.]
Sailed, and arrived at Simon’s Bay on 4th July, 8 P.M. His Excellency
was in such a hurry to convey to Admiral Sir Frederick Grey the fact
of his arrival, that, unseen, he dropped himself into a shore boat and
landed at Admiralty House.
[Sidenote: Simon’s Bay, July 5.]
Landed, after usual salutes, to pay respects to Admiral Sir F. Grey. I
mentioned the Governor’s message to me at Rio, to the effect that if
I would not write home what had occurred he would not. I ascertained
that in his statement to Sir Frederick he made out that the proposition
not to communicate home came, in the first place, from me to him. This
untruth accounts for my subsequent treatment.
[Sidenote: July 8.]
The _Forte_ requiring a thorough refit, shifted flag to my friend
Captain Algernon de Horsey’s ship, the _Brisk_, and with our
travellers, Speke and Grant, prepared to visit the East Coast.
CHAPTER LXXIII
CAPE COMMAND--FLAG IN _BRISK_
[Sidenote: 1860. Monday, July 16.]
Embarked with Flag-Lieutenant and Secretary. Hoisted flag on board
_Brisk_, Captain Algernon de Horsey. Received with yards manned.
Embarked Captains Speke and Grant, with his guard of 100 Hottentots,
volunteers from the Cape Mounted Rifles; also 12 mules, the Cape
Parliament having voted £300 to purchase them for the interesting
expedition. Sailed at sunset, leaving _Forte_ with Captain Turnour in
charge. Rounded to on signal.
[Sidenote: July 21.]
3 P.M.--Came to in 9-1/2 fathoms off the mouth of Buffalo River. The
township of East London on the south entrance composed of storehouses
and other new and neat-looking buildings. At the end of a substantial
stone wharf stands a lighthouse to correspond--not mentioned in the
charts; it showed a bright fixed light. The town is communicated with
by a surf boat hauled to and fro over the bar by means of a hawser, one
end of which is attached to an anchor outside; as uninviting a coast to
approach as can be imagined. Should a railway or any good road for the
conveyance of the produce of the country be established to Algoa Bay,
the Port of East London may prove unworthy of the name it has assumed.
At 5 P.M. weighed, proceeded under sail.
[Sidenote: July 24.]
No observation yesterday, but those of to-day at noon showed that the
current for the last 48 hours had been south-west. 97 miles. Proceeded
making particular survey of coast.
[Sidenote: July 26.]
Came to at 4 P.M., in the magnificent Bay of Delagoa, about 7 miles
from the entrance of the river. Sent a boat in to communicate: but more
to ascertain what might be doing in the slave way.
[Sidenote: Shefeen Island, July 27.]
Landed at daylight on the Island of Shefeen; more for the purpose of
hauling the seine than shooting; nevertheless took my Whitworth rifled
carbine. Observing along the sand prints of a small cloven foot, which
I took to be that of the pig, Algie Heneage and I struck into the bush;
stunted trees, but in places tolerably clear underneath. At first there
was little to attract our attention beyond sundry paroquets and an
occasional pigeon, for the destruction of which we were not prepared.
I fired once at some distance at what I imagined to be rabbits,
playing about at the edge of the jungle, but they were too nimble for
me. It was while on our return towards the beach, where we expected
a breakfast of fresh-caught fish, that a beautiful antelope bounded
across our path. It was large for an animal of that species, a dark
reddish-brown colour. I was now satisfied that the numerous footprints
that we had seen were not pig, but those of deer. The jungle being
too thick for us to beat, or even see many yards into, proposed that
we should conceal ourselves in any likely-looking shady spot, with
sufficient clear range for a fair shot.
The ground was dry and the air clear of mosquitoes. We had been
quiet for about a quarter of an hour, when I observed an antelope
approaching, apparently unconscious of danger, nibbling the bits of
herb or grass that grew up between the dead leaves, when within twenty
paces of our position it stopped to feed, broadside towards us. It was
a full-grown doe. I observed her pretty head with its beautiful large
black eye, and not wishing to spoil what I intended to have stuffed as
a trophy, I raised my rifle and aimed, so as to hit her just behind the
shoulder. Heneage was ready, knife in hand, to cut her throat, when I
pulled the trigger; the lock snapped, and in a moment my beauty bounded
into the jungle. I had forgotten to put a cap on; the rifle was a
breechloader, to which I was hardly accustomed. Our disappointment can
well be imagined.
We remained a short time longer in the same spot, hardly hoping that
anything else would come near us. Now these antelopes, with their
spindle legs and tiny feet, make no noise, but on looking in the
direction I observed a whole troop of small monkeys, whose curiosity
had brought them to ascertain who the intruders were who had so
disturbed the quiet of their domain. They had spread themselves over
some width of ground, and were advancing with all the caution of so
many diminutive riflemen. When within about fifty yards one of those in
advance made us out and gave notice.
They came to “general halt,” which was followed by a general chatter,
and I could observe each small round head peeping from behind the stump
of bush or tree where it had taken shelter. Theirs were little black
faces, surmounted by a white fringe, which somewhat resembled the frill
of a woman’s cap. The body was green, belly white, and tail long;
however, as they did not appear inclined to make a further advance,
sent a bullet at the head of one who appeared to have the command, and
I was glad to find that I had only struck the stump of the bush behind
which he had concealed his active little carcass.
Their curiosity having been gratified, they scampered away on all
fours, chattering and closing together as they went along. We never saw
them on either bushes or trees, which caused me to think that those
small things were the same sort I had a distant shot at in the morning,
and must have been monkeys and not rabbits.
We soon shifted our berth some little distance to a spot affording a
tolerable range, considering the denseness of parts of the jungle,
and made ourselves comfortable, perhaps too much so, as after a while
I started from a reverie to a pinch from Algie, and from the quarter
pointed at could just see the round red back of an antelope moving
towards us. I held in my breath as it approached. Unfortunately I had
laid aside my rifle. The motion to lay hold of it was sufficient to
cause the creature to raise its head, and the noise of the loose steel
ring on the stock of the cavalry carbine made it dash into the bush,
where it was out of sight in an instant.
It would be useless to describe the number of chances we had or the
number of deer we might have bagged if something had not happened.
Our last chance occurred when we had agreed to take up positions on
separate mounds, covered with brush and stunted trees, two-thirds
round, about twenty yards in width, round which was a fair open space
of long grass. In less than half an hour we observed a fine antelope
come out of the jungle within ten yards of where I knew that Algie must
be lying. It stopped and looked about, and I saw that it was about the
size of a calf, but with the thinnest legs; so delicate and slender
as to appear unfit to support the round, plump body it had to carry.
Watched, expecting every moment to see the beautiful creature bound
into the air and fall to the report of Algie’s gun. However, it walked
leisurely--stepping a trifle lame with the near hind leg--across into
the opposite bank.
I had my rifle to my shoulder, but Heneage had been so kind in allowing
me all the former chances, I thought it would not be doing the handsome
if I deprived him of this, the last and only one he would have. When
I inquired how he had come to allow so good an opportunity to pass, I
found he had just awoke from a pleasant sleep.
We returned on board, amused and interested, but having had a blank
day, did not boast. De Horsey, in pulling up the Tenby river, saw
a hippopotamus, but he had no gun with him. The Governor informed
us that there were plenty of rhinoceros as well as elephant in the
neighbourhood. I noticed a magnificent pair of tusks in his room.
CHAPTER LXXIV
EAST COAST SPORT
[Sidenote: 1860. Aug.]
After leaving Delagoa Bay it was not much out of our way to pass the
small island of Europa, said to abound in turtle.
[Sidenote: Europa Island, Aug. 2.]
We made it at about 9 P.M. on Thursday, August 2. The moon was at
its full. Although a partial eclipse darkened it for a while, by the
time we were off the north end of the island the moon shone out in
full splendour. It was thought that nothing would be easier than to
heave the ship to and send a boat in and bring off as many turtle as
we required. At 10 P.M. a party shoved off in the cutter, and shortly
afterwards Heneage, O’Rorke, and self left in the galley.
We found a sea breaking on a reef that bounded the coast, but farther
to the west the breakers became smaller as we got under its lee. A
coral reef extending along the coast a full half mile from the shore
was clearly distinguishable. Watching our opportunity we got on to
shelving coral, it being dead low water, and then found that we had a
good quarter of a mile to haul her over water which varied from nothing
to six or eight feet with deep holes. However, these were made clear by
the light of the moon, and nothing was left but to haul the boat over,
or return on board. The water deepened into a comparatively clear
space between it and the shore, forming a sort of lagoon. The boat was
easily pushed through this, and we landed shortly after midnight.
Leaving the remainder to light a fire and prepare for a night’s
bivouac, O’Rorke and self started along the beach to the westward to
look for turtle. Although there were the tracks of many in the sand, we
had travelled two miles before we came to marks that appeared fresh. A
large turtle had been coquetting about, as is their wont, in search of
a fit spot in the dry sand to deposit her cargo of eggs.
In this instance, it was evident that the old lady had been difficult
to please, as after many turns and windings the track led again inland;
and sure enough, ten yards from the beach, then about eight inches
deep, appeared a small oval-shaped hillock, exposed by day to the heat
of the sun. It was evident, when we got alongside, the turtle was
sleeping away the time until the rising tide had lifted her high enough
to allow of her proceeding to sea for further amusement.
The first she must have known of our presence was by the feel of our
hands under the outer edge of her shell--a sort of tickling under
the ribs--by which we endeavoured to turn her on her back. This she
resented by striking out with all four fins, and not only covering
O’Rorke with sand and water, but sending me sprawling on my back.
Luckily she was aground.
O’Rorke started into the jungle, returning presently with two branches,
the best he could get, to act as levers, with which to turn her over.
This was a far more troublesome job than we expected. The weight of
the brute alone was 360 lbs., and the strength of the foremost fins
wonderful; however, after considerable twisting and manœuvring we
managed, with our levers, to get her off side to the edge of a hollow
about eight feet by six, and with this advantage, and a heave together,
we turned her over. There she lay on her back flapping wet sand, but
comparatively helpless. The tide was now rising, and there was nothing
left but for O’Rorke to return to where we had left the boat for
assistance, leaving me to manage the best I could. I suppose I am the
first Admiral who ever kept the middle watch on a turtle. As the sea
rose over the outer reef it came rolling in to where I was seated, and
as each roller lifted my charge she renewed her struggles to get rid of
me. Our object was to keep her head towards the sandy beach, which rose
rather abruptly, by inserting one end of the lever, which was crooked,
under her back and behind her fore fins when she raised herself up,
which she did whenever a roller came to her assistance. To prevent
her floating, I seated myself on her stomach. By these means I caused
her to heave herself in nearer the shore, but in doing this I got so
plastered with wet sand that I must have had the appearance of a small
pyramid. At another time she gave me such a slap on the knee, I thought
my leg was broken; the pain was great.
I never had so troublesome a watch; it appeared to me O’Rorke had been
hours away, although the good fellow had run there and back. Having to
keep 360 lbs. weight struggling to save its embryo family from being
made into omelets, herself into “soups and steaks,” as I saw afterwards
chalked on her back, was no small undertaking. Nor can I describe my
delight when some of the boat’s crew hove in sight. Another struggle
with the brute and I must have given in or have been carried out to sea
holding on to the hind fins, like my friend King George of Tonga Tabu.
[Illustration: _My middle watch._]
Having secured our turtle, a further walk along the sandy beach, a bend
to the S.W. brought us within reach of unpleasant smells, and close to
a projecting point, within sight of the remains of a huge whale, from
which rats, by thousands, were rushing towards the jungle; when the
crabs, to say nothing of conger eels, cleared the bones of the monster,
they fell to the ground.
We secured several joints of the backbone, which, when cleaned and
covered with canvas, were formed into curious camp stools, in my garden
at Bishopstoke. How the monster got where we found him, over the
half-mile of coral-bound coast, we wondered; unless the unfortunate
brute was thrown over the reef and stranded during one of those fearful
hurricanes which visit these latitudes.
[Sidenote: Europa Island, Aug. 2.]
The shooting was not much. There were some goats running wild; the sire
of this stock was described as a magnificent fellow, with an immense
beard and strong smell. A few pigeons were seen, but so unaccustomed
were they to the intrusion of human beings as to allow themselves, when
fatigued, to be chased from bush to bush, knocked over by stones or
sticks. The frigate birds, some black, visit these latitudes.
[Sidenote: Aug. 3.]
Much excitement was caused at low tide by our men chasing, between the
openings of the coral, rock cod, conger-eels, and parrot fish--the
latter of a brilliant green colour, some of them weighing four or five
pounds.
[Sidenote: Mozambique, Aug. 7.]
5 P.M.--Came to in Mozambique Harbour in 5-1/2 fathoms. A berth that
would suit the _Forte_. Care to be taken running in, in a long ship.
Saluted Portuguese flag. Like most Portuguese forts, on a grand scale,
but the guns are small and out of date; about 100 men. A few small
vessels at anchor. Trade small, principally in ivory, rhinoceros horns,
and ebony. Slaver in disguise. Was received by the Governor, Don Joao
Tavares de Almeida, who did me the honour of dining with me on board.
No Consul. One Don Joao de Costa Sourez most obliging.
[Sidenote: Aug. 9.]
7 A.M.--Weighed, made sail.
[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]
Having been in these seas before, I cautioned Captain de Horsey to
keep a good look-out for slavers. We were running under sail with
light southerly winds, and proposed fires being lighted and banked up.
De Horsey was particular about desecrating the Sabbath, but in the
afternoon a sail was reported. Later she was made out from the masthead
standing to the eastward. I advised De Horsey to take his glass and see
for himself.
Before he was half-way up the fore-rigging I gave the order to light
the fires. The smoke had no sooner ascended than the look-out on the
fore-top-gallant yard sang out, “She’s gone round without taking her
studding sails in.” The wind fell light by sunset. We stopped engines
under the stern of a fine rakish-looking ship. Lieutenant Adeane was
sent on board, and took possession of the _Manuela_, formerly the
_Sunny South_, a Rio packet of upwards of 702 tons. She had 846 slaves
on board, and was waiting to complete 900 before proceeding round
the Cape to Cuba. She had been hovering off the coast for weeks to
complete her cargo. We sent her into Pomony. I went on board, she was
a fine-looking ship, seven feet between decks. However, on looking down
the fore hatchway, the stench was intolerable. Sent prize in charge of
Lieutenant Burlton to the Mauritius.
CHAPTER LXXV
ZANZIBAR--SHOOTING HIPPOPOTAMI
[Sidenote: 1860. Aug. 18.]
Arrived at Zanzibar. Having expressed a wish to see the hippopotamus
in his native state, Speke, being aware of my weakness, kindly invited
me to accompany him to where sport was almost a certainty. It was
necessary to procure a dhow, on board which a party could live.
[Sidenote: Aug. 19.]
Our proposed trip soon got wind. An unusual noise throughout Sunday
night on board the Sultan’s yacht was accounted for in the morning by
one Captain Mahomet informing us, which we had been well aware of, viz.
that he had been all the night bending sails, and half the morning
bastinadoing his crew; he stated he had received orders to convey me
across the channel.
[Sidenote: Aug. 21.]
From this infliction I, however, excused myself, as well as from that
of the company of the half-civilised, drunken rogue who commanded
her. Through the kind influence of Colonel Rigby, Luddah, a Banyan,
British subject, and head of the Customs, placed at our disposal a
new dhow, with a captain and fourteen Arabs. Hoping to expedite their
movements, Speke, Heneage, and myself embarked on Monday night, so as
to start early the following morning; but at that time we were not as
experienced in Arab movements as we have since been. It commenced
raining soon after we got on board, and on our taking shelter below we
found the deck overhead leaked, and the stench from the bilge water
sickening. We got under weigh at 10 A.M.; at 5 P.M. anchored in an
extensive bay off a village called Kesooku. About the bay were shoal
patches of sand and several small islands with mangrove bushes, over
the roots of which the tide flowed when up; it was on and about these
islands that we expected to find our game.
We were welcomed to the village by a Bombay Banyan Chief. Having given
us a refreshing drink from green cocoanuts, he cleared out part of
a store hut for our accommodation. We made up our beds outside on
stretchers under the shade of the projecting roof.
It appears that the habits of the hippopotami are to land at night for
food, betaking themselves to the retirement of the small islands before
break of day. Such unwieldy brutes cannot travel on shore without
leaving marks, by which they are easily traced, and generally return to
the water by the same paths. As they are never molested by the natives,
we thought we might intercept them before they went to rest, and
intended to be up at 3 o’clock, but it rained and our native servants
neglected to call us. We went later to try for guinea-fowl, which were
said to be plentiful and excellent eating. A covey of them was seen but
not got at.
Our next plan was to proceed to the patches of islands in the bay, so
as to reach them before low water, about which time our experienced
friend, Speke, considered that the hippopotami would be more likely to
be caught napping or basking in the mud. We approached the islet with
caution.
[Illustration: _A right and left shot._]
I shall not forget the first wild hippopotamus I saw: a huge ugly
brute, standing up to his middle in water, apparently indifferent to
our approach, until within fifty yards, when he moved leisurely towards
some rocks where the water was deep and disappeared. On rounding the
rocks, we opened on an extended sand-flat and observed several Sibuko,
half in the water, with one fine fellow standing separate. To the left,
and within forty yards of him, was a small clump of trees. As soon as
our boat grounded, took up my position, as prearranged, on that side,
and stalking under shelter of bushes, got pretty close, with a rest for
my gun. Speke and Heneage had spread out to the right, so as to cut off
his retreat that way to the sea. Within forty yards, when I thought
they were quite ready, I fired _my first shot_. The monster seemed
more astonished than hurt, although a stream of blood from the side of
his neck showed where my ball had told. While he hesitated, the others
broke away in a parallel direction to that I was moving in. They were
close together, the head of the Hippo nearest to me being a little in
rear of the shoulder of his companion. Had my double-barrel smooth-bore
ready. It does not often fall to the lot of man to get right and left
shots at a brace of hippopotami. I took the nearest; hit him just
behind the ears, struck the spine, and brought him on his knees. The
thick skull of the other turned my second ball.
Instead of dropping, as I expected, he took a survey of the ground,
hesitated a minute, eyed his dying chum, and made a rush to the path
where I stood. With all due deference, I made a move out of his way,
fell backward, gun going off.
Before I was on my legs I heard Speke’s gun: Sibuko had had his
quietus. I now seated myself on the root of a tree near where my first
Sibuko lay; while contemplating the monster, I felt a drop of blood
on the back of my hand, and looking up, found that I had shot the
dark native who carried my spare ammunition, he having taken refuge
when the Hippo No. 2 made his charge in my direction. We got the poor
fellow down, moaning and crying; found the ball had passed through the
fleshy part of his thigh without touching the bone. The next day he was
taken across to the hospital. After a few days and a small donation he
was ready and willing to be shot at again! The dead Sibuko was given
the natives to eat: it was curious to see how cleverly they cut the
flesh, or rather the fat, before taking the skin off, beginning at the
backbone and cutting straight down in strips about four inches square,
apparently to me of solid fat, and portioned according to the number
in a greedy family. Of course I retained the head, which, with the
other, was recovered from the natives and buried in the hot sand; after
a few days they were taken out sweet and clean, the latter operation
performed by white ants. They now occupy, or ought to, a place in the
Winchester Museum.
CHAPTER LXXVI
ZANZIBAR
[Sidenote: 1860. Aug. 24.]
Returned to Zanzibar; found _Brisk_ absent in search of a slaver that
had landed a man on the island who was made prisoner by the Sultan, and
afterwards sent on board with a request that he might be given up to
the Spanish Consul.
[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]
_Brisk_ returned with the prisoner, who stated himself to be the
doctor; pretended to know nothing about his movements, although he
told a different story to the slaver’s friend, the Consul of Imperial
France. Fresh water on the island: good, although the streams for
watering at inconvenient distances. By proper application through
Colonel Rigby, our obliging Consul, natives, or rather slaves, can be
sent to bale the water to fill the casks. Fruit and vegetables were
given for the ship’s company daily.
Found the Sultan kind and obliging; he had a large stud of arabs, and
when he found that I could ride, presented me with a couple, whose
pedigrees, drawn up in Arabic, commenced some eighty years ago. I got
the good Consul to explain that I had no place to put them in. A few
days after His Highness presented me with a handsome gold-mounted
sabre, with which I was well pleased. On my exhibiting it to my
Secretary he admired it as much as I did, but on referring to the
station order-book, on no account was an officer permitted to receive a
present or presents from any foreign authority.
Here was a nice mess! I went to Colonel Rigby to ask him to return the
sword and apologise. He said such a thing was impossible; it would not
be understood: in fact, almost made me to understand that it would be a
_casus belli_! I had the sword wrapped in cotton and stated the case to
the Board of Admiralty. 1860.
[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]
4 P.M.--Sailed from Zanzibar, giving the good Sultan a parting salute.
[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]
Took pilot. Stood into Port Mahé, all dangers, rocks and shoals being
visible under a bright sun. Anchored in 10 fathoms. All large timber
had long been cut down--underwood, the sweetest cedar.
[Sidenote: Sept. 16.]
Communicated with our prize, the _Manuela_, at anchor off Flat Island.
Came to off the Bell Buoy, Mauritius. I was last here in the _Tweed_ in
April 1829.
[Sidenote: Sept. 21.]
Prize arrived from Flat Island.
[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]
_Brisk_ having got on shore off the east coast in February sustained
some damage, which rendered her docking necessary. Copper rubbed off;
planking damaged.
[Sidenote: Oct. 7.]
6 A.M.--Weighed and proceeded under steam round the north end of the
Island. 3 P.M.--Came to in 6 fathoms in Mahébourg Harbour.
[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]
Slipped from mooring and steamed out of Port Louis. Came to in
Mahébourg Harbour 1.50 P.M.
[Sidenote: Oct. 22.]
Governor visited the ship. Manned yards and saluted.
[Sidenote: Oct. 27.]
His Excellency kindly took me a two days’ trip round the island by land.
[Sidenote: Oct. 29.]
_Wasp_, 13, Commander C. Stirling, arrived. Shifted flag to her; sent
_Brisk_ to relieve _Forte_, ordered here.
[Sidenote: Nov. 8.]
_Forte_ arrived.
CHAPTER LXXVII
_FORTE_ FLAG RE-HOISTED
[Sidenote: 1860. Nov. 9.]
Re-hoisted flag in _Forte_. Fired Royal Salute at noon, in honour of
Prince of Wales’s birthday.
[Sidenote: Mauritius, Nov. 14.]
_Persian_, 12, arrived from Seychelles, and saluted flag. Commander
Hardinge, having sustained a severe but accidental wound in the foot,
was unfortunately rendered unfit for duty.
[Sidenote: Nov. 15.]
French war steamer _La Somme_ arrived from Réunion, bearing the broad
pennant of the Commodore, with whom we exchanged salutes. In afternoon
proceeded to Tombeaux Bay. Came to off Monsieur de Courson’s sugar
mills.
[Sidenote: Tombeaux Bay, Nov. 17.]
Joined by _Persian_, 12, sloop. Made arrangements for sham fight to
come off on the 20th. _Wasp_, in dock, was found to have sustained
considerable damage while on shore off Slave Krop Point.
[Sidenote: Nov. 20.]
Soon after daylight observed the troops, consisting of 5th and part
of 24th Regiments, with artillery, marching down and crossing pontoon
bridge at head of bay. These were followed by a strong party of police.
From that time until afternoon there was one continuous string of
natives and people of all sorts arriving from Port Louis and country
round, taking up positions to see the fight, for which nothing could
be better adapted than the high land about the head of Tombeaux Bay.
At noon visitors arrived on board. After luncheon we commenced landing
them on a commanding point out of range, but from which I could command
by signal, assisted by a very pretty French lady.
_Forte_ and _Persian_, having been swung broadside to the point of
attack, the boats formed into two lines abreast: lighter boats landing
storming parties, gunboats following to cover disembarkation.
The point to be carried was a high mound at the head of the bay, about
two hundred yards inland. The landing to be effected under cover of the
ship’s guns. The enemy’s picquets were driven in, and their skirmishers
retired. The hill was stormed and carried, supposed forts blown up.
Enemy, having received reinforcements, endeavoured to outflank and cut
off retreat. On the order to retire, the mound was reoccupied by the
enemy, and pressing us with artillery on a retreat, desperate fighting
was the result. The storming party would have been made prisoners, had
not their re-embarkation been covered by the ships, who opened fire and
kept the enemy in check.
So ended the Battle of Tombeaux Bay, a successful exhibition which
delighted some twenty thousand natives and residents, without an
accident. A ball in a house kindly lent by Mr. de Courson, the Mayor,
finished the night.
[Sidenote: Nov. 21.]
Returned to Port Louis.
[Sidenote: Mahébourg, Nov. 22.]
Grand ball given by Governor and Mrs. Stevenson. Weighed at daylight.
_Persian_ in company. Came to in the harbour of Mahébourg, where I was
kindly entertained by the Colonel and officers 5th Regiment.
[Sidenote: Nov. 28.]
Inspected _Persian_--fine crew and in good order.
Steamed out of the harbour: exchanged cheers from the rigging on
parting company.
[Sidenote: Simon’s Bay, Dec. 15.]
2.15 A.M.--Storm coming on, ran for Simon’s Bay. Furled sails. Came
to with both bower anchors after having brought up with 75 fathoms
of cable ahead; ship drifted to a fresh squall; parted small bower
cable, and, as we afterwards discovered, stock of best bower broken.
Ship brought up by sheet and spare anchors when within half her length
of the rocks, but held on by help of steam screw until evening, when
gale moderated. It _can_ blow in the neighbourhood of the Cape! Found
here _Brisk_, _Lyra_, _Hornet_, and _Enchantress_, the latter our
prize, _Manula_, rechristened, and bought into the service for use in
suppression of slavery on the east coast. Found also the _Pioneer_ from
England refitting for the Zambesi expedition.
[Sidenote: Dec. 16.]
Rather bored with continued gales, unusual at this time of year. Went
up to Cape Town to visit my kind friends. The races were going on at
Green Point, to which I went, attended by groom only. Among others
found myself, without seeking him, close to His Excellency Sir George
Grey, my late passenger in the _Forte_, surrounded by his staff.
Found a letter from my clergyman friend, Eyre, dated September 30, in
which he stated that he had some qualms of conscience about writing on
the Sabbath, but recollecting what he had read in the Gospel for the
day, he determined to continue.
In Cape Town was Doctor Livingstone waiting for an opportunity to get
to the Zambesi. Informed him of one in the _Pioneer_; and, like the
sinewy-looking man that he was, he walked the whole way to Simon’s Bay.
CHAPTER LXXVIII
THE CAPE COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1861. Simon’s Bay, Jan. 1.]
Succeeded in getting _Sidon_ under weigh, with _Pioneer_ in tow, at 9
A.M.
[Sidenote: Jan. 2.]
6 A.M.--Slipped moorings and steamed out of Simon’s Bay. Rounded Cape
Point. 9.--Made sail, passing between the Bellows Rock and the Main. Up
screw.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Forte_, Jan. 13.]
It was my intention to have visited Ichaboa on way to Ascension,
but the wind falling light for several successive days, and having
appointed the Commodore of the West Coast to meet me at Ascension the
middle of January, did not delay.
Attention to the vast deposit of guano on Ichaboa appears to have been
drawn by Captain Andrew Livingston in 1843; the first cargo was taken
off by the _Ann_ in that year. Although the island is little more than
a mile in circumference, from April 1843 to February 1845 upwards of
200,000 tons of guano had been removed. In the month of January 1845,
450 vessels were present, and as many as 6000 seamen and labourers at
work. The constant presence of a man-of-war was necessary. The island
appears to have been clean swept of guano, and the birds, seals,
etc., driven away by February 1845. Since that, a few enterprising
individuals have, by keeping guard there, prevented the birds from
being disturbed, so that they resort there annually, and guano to the
value of £30,000 is taken off and sent to the Mauritius market. This
increase has excited the cupidity of other parties at Cape Town, who
choose to consider it as an unfair monopoly on the part of those who
have, at considerable expense, watched over, and, as they term it,
cultivated the guano. While one party is prepared to defend their
preserve, others are preparing to help themselves, and use force. It
was to prevent bloodshed that I thought of going. The island, however,
belongs to no one.
[Sidenote: Jan. 17.]
Daylight made the Island of Ascension. Came to at 8.30 in 10 fathoms.
Found _Arrogant_, 47, Commodore Edmonstone, and _Mæander_, whose
figurehead I have. No exchange of salutes, on account of its being the
turtle season, which continues from November until June.
[Sidenote: Jan. 19.]
Inspected _Arrogant_. Clean and smart. Good at quarters, as well as at
manning and arming boats. Fairish crew, but spoilt in appearance by
cloth caps, now prevalent in the service.
[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
_Arrogant_ sailed for Sierra Leone and Gambia to quell disturbance by
King Badiboo. Inspected the “island of forbidding appearance,” without
water or wood, and formerly regarded as an impracticable heap of ashes.
Ascension is now in a state of improvement as to its resources, natural
and artificial. Government buildings of stone, neat and substantial,
consisting of store-house, hospital, a good smith’s shop, mess-room and
barracks; but the chief interests of the island are centred in turtle.
The first part of a tolerably good road has been made between hills of
cinders and along plains of ashes, dust, and lava.
Green Mountain is nearly in the centre of the island, 2818 feet above
the sea; rising, as the Directory terms it, a “graceful oasis amidst
waste and desolation”; from it you look down on some forty hills of
cinders, each of which has in its turn contributed to the supply
of lava and ashes; but now, with the assistance of planting and
cultivation attracting rain, it is rapidly progressing. There appear to
be about 2000 acres in pasture, planted, or under cultivation. Cattle,
and occasionally horses are bred, but sheep appear to thrive best. In
addition to seven or eight milch cows, the Government farm can boast of
two bulls, thirty oxen, and about eleven thousand sheep.
[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]
Weighed.
[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]
Came to in Sierra Leone. Found _Arrogant_. Saluted authorities and
landed, receiving due honours.
[Sidenote: Feb. 11.]
Arrived H.M.S. _Falcon_, under command of Lieutenant Bagge, Commander
Arthur Fitzroy having died of fever. At this sad event I am deeply
grieved. It was only in the Crimea that I attended the deathbed of his
elder brother: one of a family through whose care and kindness I, as a
midshipman, recovered from this deadly African fever.
I appointed my Flag Lieutenant, Algernon C. F. Heneage, to poor Arthur
Fitzroy’s vacancy in the _Falcon_. She was lying in the river, where
there was nothing above the surface to be seen moving but sharks’ fins.
The new Commander was well got up, as was his wont, even to kid gloves.
Just as his four-oared gig was getting alongside, one of the boys
missed his footing and disappeared. In a moment Heneage unbuckled his
sword, dived and saved the boy. He read his commission at the capstan
in his muddy suit--a good beginning!--and returned on board _Forte_
to dine with his old Chief. For this gallant deed the Humane Society
awarded Heneage a medal.
It was now my painful duty to write the following official letter:--
“FORTE,” AT SIERRA LEONE,
_February 11, 1861_.
To the Secretary of the Admiralty.
SIR--I have the honour to inform you, for the information of My Lords
Commissioners of the Admiralty, that I have received my appointment
to the South East Coast of America; but, as I did not apply for that
command, I beg most respectfully to request their Lordships will be
pleased to inform me of their reason for removing me from the Cape of
Good Hope and West Coast of Africa to an inferior command.--I have
the honour to be, sir, your obedient servant,
(Signed) HENRY KEPPEL,
Rear-Admiral.
[Sidenote: Sierra Leone.]
Appointed Lieutenant Wilkinson Acting Commander, and Mr. Turner, Flag
Lieutenant. The expedition had started to punish the King of Badiboo,
who, when called on to pay a fine of bullocks for having robbed British
merchants, sent in reply to Governor D’Arcy at Bathurst, he would fight
him, and if he was not assisted by the French, thrash him to boot!
Colonel Hill, Governor of Sierra Leone, having sent all his troops, was
anxious for the assistance of the Navy.
[Sidenote: Feb. 13.]
Embarked the Governor under salute and manned yards. Weighed for the
Gambia, _Arrogant_ and _Falcon_ having preceded.
[Sidenote: Gambia, Feb. 16.]
Nearing the land, signalman reported masts of a ship at anchor to the
N.W. Steered towards her. On getting within distance, she signalled,
“You are standing into danger.” This was the _Arrogant_, my old friend
Edmonstone of the Naval College, the cleverest fellow there, who
passed out six months before his allotted two years: no better fellow,
but chance had made me his senior. My reply was, “Weigh immediately and
follow me.” Steamed into the Gambia, _Arrogant_ in company. Came to in
15 fathoms off Bathurst.
[Sidenote: Feb. 17.]
1 P.M.--_Arrogant_ proceeded up the river to join the expedition which
left Bathurst on Friday. 4 P.M.--_Falcon_ arrived, but being out of
coal came to. At 4.30 P.M., _Forte’s_ services not being required,
steamed out of the river.
[Sidenote: Feb. 22.]
Arrived at Sierra Leone. Having taken in 135 tons of coal, steamed out.
[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]
4 A.M.--Tornado came off, cool and refreshing. Made sail after the
strength had passed. Departed this life, Mr. Keating, boatswain, a
former shipmate in _Dido_. Poor fellow, he leaves a wife and three
young children.
[Sidenote: Accra, Mar. 3.]
3 P.M.--Came to off Accra; landed in the evening.
[Sidenote: Mar. 4.]
11 A.M.--Re-embarked under salute from the fort. 9.30 P.M.--Weighed.
[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]
1.30 P.M.--Came to in 7 fathoms off a village called Jellacoffy, two
miles to the eastward of Cape St. Paul, a good place for stock and
fruit. 4.30 P.M.--Weighed.
[Sidenote: Fernando Po, Mar. 10.]
Came to in a cove to the westward of Cockburn Cove, Fernando Po. Found
_Bloodhound_, 3, paddle wheel, steam vessel, Lieutenant Commander
Francis W. Bennett. Saluted Spanish flag and returned salute of Spanish
brig.
[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]
8 A.M.--Arrived _Alecto_, Commander Raby, bringing our December mail.
[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]
No Protestant clergyman being allowed to do duty on shore, two
marriages among the coloured population were solemnized on board
by Captain Turnour. There are upwards of 1000 coloured people,
Protestants, in and about the town, who are not allowed to assemble
together in each other’s houses to pray, nor is a school allowed for
the education of their children. Such is Spanish law in A.D. 1861!
Spanish Governor Don José de la Gandara visited the ship: a superior
and intelligent-looking man.
[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]
11.30 A.M.--Weighed; stood to southward down west coast of the island.
[Sidenote: St. Thomas, Mar. 16.]
7.30 A.M.--Came to in 6 fathoms, Island of St. Thomas, Fort St.
Sebastian N.N.W. 3/4 mile. I anchored here, just twenty-three years
ago, in the _Childers_ on my way to Ascension and England (1838).
Found everybody on shore anything but civil; slavers calling are
more profitable than Her Majesty’s ships. Several canoes, apparently
fishing, started off to sea on our arrival and were not seen to return.
After we got under weigh at 8 P.M. observed port-fires and other night
signals in different directions.
[Sidenote: Mar. 19.]
1 P.M.--Chased and came up with a brig, the _Falmouth_ of New York.
This vessel had been captured only a few months ago by one of the U.S.
cruisers _Portsmouth_, and sent to New York to be sold for the benefit
of the captors.
[Sidenote: St. Paul de Loanda, Mar. 21.]
6 A.M.--Exchanged salutes with the _Archer_, 8; came to in 5
fathoms as near the coal depot as we could. Found _Wrangler_, also
an old acquaintance at Madeira, Flag-Officer Inman, in the U.S.
_Constellation_; exchanged salutes and fraternized considerably. Found
the American iron coaling launches most useful. Native labour idle and
next to useless.
[Sidenote: Mar. 23.]
Midnight, weighed.
[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]
Came to in Little Fish Bay. Obtained fresh beef and live bullocks,
yams, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and cabbages. English potatoes
plentiful.
[Sidenote: Cape of Good Hope, April 21.]
Stood into False Bay; took moorings in Simon’s Bay. Found here _Brisk_,
_Gorgon_, and _Persian_.
[Sidenote: April 22.]
Commenced coaling and otherwise preparing for our relief.
[Sidenote: April 24.]
8 P.M.--_Narcissus_ arrived with flag of Sir Baldwin Walker to relieve
me. Appointed to the Brazilian command.
[Sidenote: April 25.]
Salutes exchanged.
[Sidenote: April 29.]
Gave up the Command in Chief of the Cape of Good Hope and West African
station to Sir Baldwin Walker. At 8.30 P.M. steamed out of Simon’s Bay
to go to Table Bay for provisions, ships and transports from China
having cleared out the stores.
[Sidenote: May 3.]
10 A.M.--Steamed out of Table Bay against a heavy swell.
[Sidenote: May 16.]
6.40 P.M.--Came to at Ascension. Found here _Mæander_, _Tortoise_, and
_Buffalo_.
[Sidenote: Ascension, May 17.]
Took in all the coal we could get by 8 P.M. Sailed next morning.
CHAPTER LXXIX
RETURN TO ENGLAND
[Sidenote: 1861. May 28.]
9 P.M.--Came to in Rio Harbour. Found _Leopard_, with flag of
Rear-Admiral Sir Stephen Lushington, K.C.B., waiting to be relieved.
Also the old _Madagascar_, Captain White; _Curlew_, Captain Shaw;
_Spy_, Lieutenant Tabuteau; and _Pylades_, Captain de Courcy, on his
way home from the Pacific. Found also notice from their Lordships of
their intention to supersede me with Rear-Admiral Warren, whom I might
expect in the _Emerald_, to which ship I was to transfer my flag and
return to England.
This step was taken by their Lordships in reply to a request I had
made in a private letter to the First Lord to be allowed to return to
England in the _Forte_, that inquiry might be made into my conduct.
Moreover, in reply to an official application I had made most
respectfully, requesting their Lordships would be good enough to state
reasons for having removed me from the Cape to an inferior command,
I received an answer that their Lordships “were not in the habit of
giving any reasons for the orders they may think proper to give.”
[Sidenote: June 16.]
Arrived _Emerald_, with flag of Rear-Admiral Warren; exchanged salutes.
Transferred my flag to the _Emerald_ commanded by my gallant friend
Captain Arthur Cumming. Off this coast on Sept. 6, 1843, to the
southward, he did as smart a thing as any sailor could wish. He was a
lieutenant in charge of a twelve-oared cutter, searching for slavers.
He disguised himself, his crew and his boat, as fishermen, painting the
cutter after Brazilian fashion. A strange, rakish-looking brig nearing,
Cumming steered towards her as if wishing to sell fish. Without a word
he was on board, shot the helmsman, put the slaver up in the wind, to
the consternation of her crew. His own men joined him. It was indeed a
brilliant feat!
* * * * *
By the mail received the following press cutting--from what paper I
know not, nor from whom I received it; but so struck am I by its truth
and justice, it is herewith inserted:--
THE KEPPEL SCANDAL
The report to which we gave currency last week, relative to the
return of Sir Henry Keppel, has since been confirmed; and we
understand another flag officer has been nominated successor to
Sir Stephen Lushington on the Brazil Station. On the return of the
gallant Admiral, the scandal with which his name has been associated
will be fully investigated, and the danger of acting upon an _ex
parte_ statement will probably receive another proof. Had Sir Henry
Keppel tamely submitted to the sentence of removal from the Cape
Station he would have been pleading guilty to a charge of a serious
nature, and we give him full credit, therefore, for having declined
to accept the South American command under such circumstances. This
treatment of a British flag officer shows to what a miserable ebb
the Navy has fallen. Had a general officer been complained of by a
Colonial Government he would not have been summarily dismissed or
transferred to another command unheard or untried. But, alas! the
Navy has no _Head_, able or willing to maintain the independence
of its officers. Any paltry complaint against a naval officer,
when urged by a civilian, or coming from the Horse Guards or Home
Office, assumes a degree of importance which it takes a deal of
correspondence and explanations to lessen or set aside. The naval
officer is often condemned on the shallowest of pretexts, and has no
Court of Appeal. With respect to the alleged scene or scenes on board
the _Forte_, we have heard so many different versions that we decline
to offer any decided opinion; but we contend on behalf of the service
for that measure of justice which is never denied to the veriest
criminal--a fair and full trial before condemnation. It may turn out
that Sir George Grey acted with unbecoming and causeless impetuosity,
and that a British Admiral was moved from a valuable appointment at
the request of the Home Secretary, because an irascible civilian
Governor chose to pick a quarrel. We demand on the part of the Navy
fair play. We ask no more, and we are satisfied that if it is not
freely accorded by the Board of Admiralty, there are champions of
justice enough in the House of Commons to take up the cudgels.
[Sidenote: June 26.]
H.M. Minister, Mr. Christie, embarked on board _Emerald_. Sunset,
resigned command of South American station to Warren, and shifted flag
to _Emerald_, embarking with suite at same time. Was informed that
during the night between fifty and sixty of the _Forte’s_ crew deserted.
[Sidenote: June 27.]
10 P.M.--Weighed. Although at that late hour, the crew of _Forte_
voluntarily waited up to greet their old Admiral and Captain with a
succession of parting cheers. Blue lights were burned as we steamed
round and stood out of Rio Harbour. Thirty-seven years since I first
entered it!
[Sidenote: July 2.]
7 A.M.--Came to off St. Salvador in the famous Bahia Bay. Found
_Curlew_. Exchanged salutes with Brazilian flag. Noon, Royal salute in
commemoration of Brazilian independence.
[Sidenote: July 3.]
Ship visited by President to see our Minister and Armstrong guns.
[Sidenote: July 4.]
Weighed and steamed out of Bahia.
[Sidenote: July 11.]
Crossed the Equator for the last time!
[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]
Made the Eddystone Lighthouse.
[Sidenote: Aug. 5.]
After passing Cowes, furled sails, squared yards, rounded to, manned
yards, and saluted Royal standard. Made sail, came to at Spithead.
[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]
Struck flag. Visited friend, George Gray, now Rear-Admiral
Superintendent of the Dockyard. After luncheon, accompanied him towards
the King’s Stairs, where he expected the Prince Consort to embark for
Osborne, H.R.H. having been to inspect works in progress at Portsdown.
[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Aug. 6.]
On the Prince’s appearing in sight, I retired; however, His Royal
Highness having spotted me, came direct and gave me a kind and cordial
“welcome back.” I was much pleased and gratified at this--but still
sore at the silence preserved at the Admiralty as to the cause of my
removal from the Cape Station. Governor Sir George Grey had sent a
message that “if I did not (on our second leaving Rio for the Cape)
write home what had occurred, he would not.”
Having since found out how little regard he had for speaking the truth,
I believed that he had access by writing to some person near the Court,
which would account for the mystery at the Admiralty. The kindness of
the Prince Consort somewhat dispelled this idea. I proceeded to London.
My brother-in-law, clever and truest friend, was no more! I tried to
forget my Service troubles, and the notice I more than once received
that I need not expect further employment. Sir Frederick Grey, First
Sea Lord, was then the only person who, if not deceived, knew what had
occurred on board the _Forte_.
[Sidenote: Aug. to Sept.]
On 5th December 1860, the First Lord wrote me a private letter,
which I only received after my arrival in England stating, “Upon
consideration, he thought it expedient to transfer me to another
station.” A more just and honourable man than the Duke of Somerset
there could not be. By whom had His Grace been misled? There are now
living proofs in London of what did occur! Sir George Grey and myself
are both old men, living within an hour’s walk. We must shortly be
called to our full account.
_P.S._--Poor fellow! since writing the above I find that Sir George
Grey (born _Gray_) rests under the same roof as Nelson and Wellington!
CHAPTER LXXX
SHORE TIME
[Sidenote: 1861. Oct.]
Although surrounded by friends, England to me was no longer the same
happy place. I felt aggrieved and annoyed. Jane West kindly undertook
to share my troubles.
[Sidenote: Oct. 31.]
The marriage ceremony was performed by her brother Richard, assisted by
the Rev. Hon. Robert Liddell, Vicar of St. Paul’s, Knightsbridge.
[Sidenote: Nov.]
We went abroad, travelled through France and Italy: remained some time
in Florence, met many kind friends, visited the churches and shops
without the means of purchasing. On convenient occasions my good wife
invited me to join in prayer. Anxious to display my French, usually
answered, “Toujours près.”
[Sidenote: Paris, Dec. 14.]
The good Prince Consort departed this life. Her poor Majesty! Universal
grief!
[Sidenote: 1862. Jan. 10.]
Returned to England. We retook possession of our cottage at
Bishopstoke, although I had a kind and good tenant in Sir John Bayley,
owner of the _Nymph_, a 61-ton cutter yacht lying at Southampton; he
kindly vacated the cottage. While arrangements were being made, we took
lodgings in Sloane Street, my wife’s parents living in Cadogan Place.
[Sidenote: Dec. 3.]
Son Colin was born, an event which took off the rough edge of
discontent. The gallant Clyde stood godfather. Am not going to bore
my readers with particulars of my shore life. I may state that I still
had kind friends, and enjoyed the best of shooting; also, being a light
weight, had frequent mounts with hounds.
[Sidenote: 1863. Jan. 1.]
Heard of Princess Alice’s accident at Broadlands, Isle of Wight. Her
phaeton was overturned, but H.R.H. fortunately not much hurt. The Hon.
Mrs. Bruce was in attendance.
[Sidenote: Feb. 5.]
The Prince of Wales took his seat for the first time in the House of
Lords. Navy much exercised about the building of ironclads.
[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]
Attended Prince of Wales’s levée with Eyre. Over a thousand
presentations, besides seventeen hundred who attended. Amongst other
old shipmates, met Prince Victor of Hohenlohe.
[Sidenote: Mar. 7.]
This was indeed a happy and exciting day for London. The arrival and
procession through the city and streets by the most lovely Princess
that ever visited this country. The excitement and fatigue must have
been great, but Her Royal Highness allowed no one to see it.
[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]
Marriage of the Prince and Princess of Wales at Windsor.
* * * * *
As before mentioned, I was fond of a race, as was my brother-in-law,
Sir Joseph Hawley; he had engaged Porter as his trainer. I amused
myself at Kingsclere and learned something. Settled down at the
cottage, Bishopstoke.
[Sidenote: April 20.]
My brother Tom died at Brighton. He had been for some time in delicate
health. In 1856 I took him to the Cape for the sea voyage. He was
buried at Quidenham.
[Sidenote: May 18.]
At Epsom races. Derby won by Mr. R. C. Naylor’s “Macaroni.” Stakes
valued at £7200.
[Sidenote: May 22.]
Oaks won by Lord Valentine’s “Queen Bertha.”
[Sidenote: June 4.]
Cup Day, Ascot. A brilliant meeting. First appearance of Prince and
Princess of Wales. Cup won by Mr. Merry’s “Buckstone.”
[Sidenote: Aug. 14.]
My much-esteemed friend Lord Clyde died, aged seventy-one.... Attended
his funeral on 21st.
[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]
The King of the Greeks, brother to the Princess of Wales, arrived in
England.
* * * * *
[Sidenote: Dec.]
The River Itchen running between my kitchen and flower-garden, was
full of trout, and there was a small summer-house through which I
could conduct a running stream from the river. I wrote to Mr. Buckland
to help me in breeding trout. In the upper part of the summer-house
I had a tank, which could be renovated and a small stream of water
introduced into a succession of troughs of spawn,--these overflowed
into each other. It was great fun watching the tiny things come to life
and gradually increase in size, until it was time to put them into the
river. Chamberlayne and others, through whose property the Itchen ran,
took a great interest in the experiment. From my little preserve on the
Itchen, Frank Buckland stocked the rivers in Tasmania with trout, which
has proved very successful.
[Sidenote: Dec. 23.]
Heard with deep regret of the death of Thackeray. He had, some years
before, proposed me as a member of the Cosmopolitan Club, a pleasant
gathering of Bohemians, who met as a rule about midnight in Watt’s
Studio, Charles Street, Berkeley Square. Up to the end of its days my
name was up on the walls of the Club as “absent on special business.”...
[Sidenote: 1864. Jan. 8.]
Poor Denmark was not getting on in her war with Prussia; offered my
services. But the rank of Vice-Admiral interfered.
[Sidenote: Mar. 19.]
Prince of Wales at University Boat Race, attended by General Knollys
and Colonel Keppel.
[Sidenote: Apr. 3.]
Garibaldi arrived at Southampton. Landed in his full uniform: red
shirt, felt hat, and walking-stick. He was taken by Mr. Seely of iron
pigs notoriety over Portsmouth Dockyard. Garibaldi, after three weeks’
visit, left in the Duke of Sutherland’s yacht _Undine_ for Caprera.
[Sidenote: June 20.]
Capture of _Alabama_ by Federal cruiser _Kearsage_.
* * * * *
Three millions afterwards paid by England! So much for arbitration!
[Sidenote: July 6.]
Bishopstoke being near Southampton, was a good deal on board Tom
Chamberlayne’s (of Cranberry) yacht the _Arrow_, R.Y.S.; at that
period had not been beaten. Fred Delmé Radcliffe had a nice yacht, the
_Freak_, but nothing could pass _Arrow_. Being an honorary member of
the Royal Yacht Squadron, consoled myself as best I could. Astonishing
how sailing improves the appetite. Off Hurst Castle was our host’s
favourite anchorage.
[Sidenote: Guernsey, July 7.]
Charles Radcliffe joined. Guernsey, too, was a favourite anchorage.
Market well supplied with fruit and vegetables, but you should not
spoil your appetite by looking at the disgusting conger-eel.
[Sidenote: July 8.]
Breakfasted off mackerel caught just before. After breakfast joined by
Delmé Radcliffe and son Herbert. We started in hopes of engaging one
Lanourie, a celebrated salt-water fisherman, but found he was already
engaged by Mr. Petre of the _Osprey_. Arrived _Eugenie_, R.Y.S.; joined
by Fred Delmé Radcliffe; had a good dinner with Frankland and Colonel
Denny.
[Sidenote: _Arrow_ yacht, July 9.]
On the highest part in the centre of the town is a granite tower
erected in memory of Her Majesty’s visit. After a climb up a spiral
staircase, we obtained a view of the island. The tide being out, the
numerous rocks appeared as if they had risen like pinnacles from the
deep; makes one feel thankful one is not the owner of a yacht. During
the night we were joined by the _Firefly_, Sir H. Oglander. A strong
north-easter made us prisoners. Chamberlayne has a party at Cranberry,
and I am due at home! News of Friday’s debate in the House on vote of
censure. The position of Federal troops in Virginia critical.
[Sidenote: July 10.]
By steamer to Cowes; dined with Sir Thomas Whichcote on board his
_Enchantress_.
[Sidenote: July 11.]
Landed early at Southampton, on to Bishopstoke, saw wife and kid
(Colin), returned to _Enchantress_, and off with first of south-wester
to the eastward. Monty Thorold on board. Frankland in _Eugenie_ had got
start, but we caught her up this side of Beachy Head. Took Dutch pilot.
[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]
Readers rejoice. Some friend has borrowed a month of my journal and
left me neither on shore nor afloat.
[Sidenote: Aug. 12.]
Sunset not far from the Sluis Gate entrance. Detained a couple of hours
for want of water. Worked over the bar and came to in Goree Channel
shortly after midnight.
[Sidenote: Aug. 13.]
_Eugenie_ brought up outside the bar. Having worked up to Helvets Maas,
changed pilot and hauled into entrance of Vourme Canal. Here had to
wait our turn. _Eugenie_ rejoined; got through first tack. Taken in tow
by horses, to me a novel mode of travelling. Canal about six miles in
length. Secured inside the lock.
On passing through, saw sundry partridges, hares, wild duck, and
plover; cattle, carts and carriages, latter primitive in appearance. At
noon anchored off Rotterdam. Landed in afternoon; ascended the Church
Tower, magnificent and extensive view. Inside the church are two good
sculptures of Admirals de Witt and Coremiar. Town clean. Corry and
Conellan dined with us.
[Sidenote: Aug. 15.]
[Sidenote: The Hague.]
Started by train for the Hague. Visited Museum and Picture Gallery.
Lunched at a Café by the way, particularly clean. We then drove to
the King’s Country Palace, distant some miles; road shaded by some of
the tallest oaks and elms I ever saw. At the Palace we were civilly
received by the servants. Although the Queen was residing in it, we
were shown over the charming country residence. On our preparing to
leave, a footman suggested writing our names in a book lying open on a
side-table. I had no other costume than a pea-jacket and sailor’s hat.
We had just turned into the road from the outer gate, when a messenger
came running with Her Majesty’s commands for my return, when I was sent
for, and received by Her Majesty Queen Sophie Frederique Mathilde at
the door of the ante-room, and desired to follow her into a charming
boudoir. After a few kind words, I was desired to sit down. Her
Majesty hoped that I had not forgotten my Dutch extraction, and other
kind expressions. I mentioned that I had had the honour of being a
Groom-in-Waiting to Her Majesty Queen Victoria. I was allowed to kiss
the royal hand on departing: my friends having kindly waited in the
carriage, enjoying the fragrant weed.
On our way back we visited the bazaars. A more curious collection of
pretty things I had never seen. Returned by train, and so on board the
pretty and beautifully clean _Enchantress_, having seen a good deal,
and I, in particular, well pleased by the reception I had received. The
_Eugenies_ came to dine.
[Sidenote: Aug. 16.]
In the evening my new friend Mr. Itmann came on board and agreed to
accompany us to Amsterdam.
[Sidenote: Amsterdam, Aug. 17.]
By 9.15 train. Two flys took us from the station at Amsterdam to the
Palace. We first mounted the belfry and had a fine view of Zuyder Zee
and surrounding country. We came in for a tune on the bells, as well as
the striking the hour of noon on the more ponderous one. The Palace is
as dismal and as uninteresting a building as one could well go through.
Old Spanish flags and other trophies taken from their greatest enemy
are suspended in the Throne Room. There is a large picture by Wappers
of the gallant young officer, Van Speyk, who blew his ship up, with
himself and crew, after getting on shore, when boarded by the Belgians
in 1831.
We went to the picture-gallery; an ill-arranged building, but
containing some good pictures. Amsterdam, with its trade and canal
streets, is very like Rotterdam. At 5 P.M. we returned by a train
_viâ_ Utrecht; but there is so much sameness about this great grazing,
cattle-supporting country, that unless I had been told I should have
thought we were returning by the same line. In Amsterdam we had
luncheon at a restaurant, but the cooking not much, although things
were clean. Got on board _Enchantress_ a little after seven.
[Sidenote: Rotterdam, Aug. 18.]
After luncheon went on shore with Itmann and examined a small galliot
pleasure-boat, of about eighteen or twenty feet in length, and to
which I had taken a fancy. For her length, as comfortable as a vessel
could be, the middle part decked over. Mast and sails fitted, and for
stability as safe as a church. Should like to have her in the Itchen,
off Bishopstoke. Weather bad.
[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]
Weighed at 11 A.M. Wind just sufficient to allow us, with ebb tide, to
fetch down, which we did cleverly in one hour. Same distance when going
up taking us four hours, in tow of a dirty steamer. Arrived at Nieuwe
Sluys entrance to the Vourme Canal at noon. Process of getting through
the lock gates slow. We heard of a large ship coming through yesterday,
requiring forty-two horses to tow her up. By 2 P.M. we were through the
gates, and, with the assistance of the foresail, wind abeam, kept the
three horses at the tow rope in a jog-trot. _Eugenie_ having had half
an hour’s start, made sail and slipped away without the encumbrance
of horses, and was, partly owing to the haze, out of sight ahead. The
canal is crossed by sundry bridges which draw up, and the passing
between the posts requires a nicety in steering. In meeting vessels it
is customary, or rather it is the printed law, to keep to the right
or starboard side. At about 3.40 a deeply-laden English collier was
observed most pertinaciously keeping the mid-channel, as if she did
not intend to give way an inch to, what she most likely considered us,
the weaker vessel; in vain we hauled in so close to the shore that one
might have reached it with a moderate length of foot: however, we had
all but squeezed through, when the _Leveret_, of Whitby, at last, and
when too late, put her helm a-port, thereby throwing her quarter very
rudely against _Enchantress’s_ bow, by which she lost a whisker and had
her cathead and upper works considerably damaged; to say nothing of the
foresail, which was rent in twain.
The nimble _Leveret_ did not escape without a scratch, inasmuch as
_Enchantress’s_ anchor having hooked the _Leveret’s_ main rigging,
tore away three of the shrouds, and having cleared her upper works fore
and aft, the anchor finding nothing left to hold on by, tumbled into
the water and was soon weighed, catted, and fished. While we proceeded
on our way, the collier was observed to rush frantically into the
rushes on the wrong bank of the river.
At 4 P.M. we brought up at Helviotsluys end of the canal. All
appearances of a gale of wind, although in the right direction, we are
better inside the canal.
[Sidenote: Helviotsluys, Aug. 21.]
Gale continuing, but glass rising. If wind veers to eastward the sea
must go down a bit. Visit from the _Eugenies_ or Irish Brigade, who
likewise had been in some danger by a huge steamer. Whichcote, not
intending the lubberly _Leveret_ to escape the punishment due, sent
Haywood, his master, back to Rotterdam by steamer to lay the case
before Her Majesty’s Consul and proper authorities; this, however, may
detain us another day, as the master cannot be back before to-morrow.
Landed and visited the town, which is entered by a drawbridge, and
surrounded by a ditch. Fortifications in tolerable repair, but no
guns mounted: they were lying in rows inside one of the bastions. In
the centre of the town was an old 50-gun frigate, for the training of
youths for their navy. In the evening the _Eugenies_ came on board and
we had a rubber.
[Sidenote: Aug. 22.]
_Eugenie_ got through the gates at an early hour, but brought up
outside. Gale over, glass rising, but no easterly wind. A young
Dutchman, probably an attorney’s clerk, came on board, the bearer of
a letter from the master of the _Leveret_, the purport of which was
that he should send Whichcote a bill of damages as soon as his defects
were made good. Tom Whichcote, having read the document, tore it up
and threw it overboard, and told the messenger he might tell Mr. Clark
(the master of the _Leveret_) to go to a hot place. The scribe having
remarked that Sir Thomas had a peculiar way of conducting business,
retired in haste. In the afternoon a pilot came on board and conducted
us through the gates--an operation we could have done as well. Came to
outside preparatory to a start in the morning.
[Sidenote: Aug. 23.]
Got pilot on board. Weather hazy. Wind hanging to W.S.W. Message from
the Irish Brigade proposing to keep the inner water and so go down to
Flushing; not a bad idea, to which we agreed. Landed sea pilot and
tried for a river one; only one in store, so settled to wait. At 9 A.M.
observed _Eugenie_ working down for the sea. However, Tom Whichcote was
not to be influenced into again changing his mind; having got on board
a river pilot, we weighed and ran to S.E., keeping between certain
black and white buoys.
After rounding the S.E. end of Goree and Overflacker, the tide having
fallen, and the channel narrow and wind in our faces, we came to.
Observed sundry seals basking in the sun on the patches of drying sand
left by the falling tide. _Eugenie_ and ourselves no longer in company,
and as their manœuvring scented somewhat of the humbug it was not to be
regretted. Having been to-day at noon in 4° 5´ E. Long.--wonder whether
I shall ever be so far _East_ again.
These Dutch pilots, although well acquainted with shoals and dangers,
do not understand the handling of a fast fore and aft rigged schooner.
They have no idea of the time they are in stays, nor of the length of
time they hold their way; consequently, instead of merely pointing out
to the captain of the vessel the dangers or shoals he had to avoid,
took to working her himself and twice fixed her on the mud bank. The
second time she was only got off by a rising tide. Much time was lost,
and we brought up for the night earlier than we otherwise should.
[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]
Weighed at an early hour, with a southerly wind. Haywood, the master,
appeared to have had enough of narrow channels and mud banks, so took
the Keeten Mast Channel, leading to the southward, and we stood on to
Brouwershaven, where we came to at 9 A.M. to wait tide, change pilot
for a deep-sea one, and obtain provisions. This being the main channel
for large ships to Helviotsluys and Rotterdam, we found several French,
American, and Dutch.
Water being low as we came down, the banks were covered with various
birds. Two of the crew landed in the night and had got within twenty
yards of a flock of wild ducks, but, unsportmanlike, they had neglected
to examine their guns, which obstinately refused to go off, so the
ducks did! At 11.30 boat returned with a regular old salt as sea pilot;
not much to be done in the way of grub, and the only newspaper, dated
Friday last, was in the possession of one of the American skippers,
with most likely news from the States.
Weighed, wind W.S.W., fresh ebb tide; worked out cleverly; twelve miles
before we were clear of the outer shoals; discharged pilot and took our
departure from the Fairway buoy. I took the helm. A refreshing breeze,
but rising sea. Name it not, but at four, dinner-time, my old inside
revolted. I felt so sea-sick that I preferred turning in, to facing
dinner. Made a second attempt at supper-time with same result. By 11.30
made Lowestoft Light.
[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]
At noon we were off the North Foreland. Dirty weather; we wisely came
to in Margate Roads. Glass falling; westerly gale.
[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]
Gale continuing. Got _Daily Telegraph_ from a stranger, but neither he
nor three others could tell what horse had won the Ebor Handicap last
week at York!
[Sidenote: Sept. 16.]
Sad death of friend Speke. Accidentally shot getting over a stone wall
near Box, Bath.
[Sidenote: Oct.]
It was about this time that my kind friends at Singapore realised the
position in which I was placed. Now that the subject of the transfer of
the Straits Settlements from the India to the Colonial Office was under
the consideration of the Government, I think my friends were almost
unanimous in wishing that I should be appointed Governor of the Straits
Settlements.
CHAPTER LXXXI
COUNTRY HOUSE VISITS
[Sidenote: 1865. Jan. 2.]
Re-established myself at Bishopstoke. Prepared for hunting and jobbed
horses.
[Sidenote: Jan. 3.]
With the Hambledon meet, West End; found in Allington Wood. Sharp but
short run, the greater part to myself.
[Sidenote: Jan. 4.]
Rode “Balloon” with the Hursley meet, Farlay Down; found two foxes. A
long day, and no run. Willie Standish driving me home from Hursley.
[Sidenote: Thursday, Jan. 5.]
Letter from Knollys with kind invitation to Sandringham for Saturday
next till Thursday following. By steamer to Hythe; shot with Charlie
Scott, and put up at Beaulieu. Everything in the rough, but so
comfortable. Shooting not much. Simpson, Clinton, and Morrit. Posted
to station, and by rail to London. Put up at Bristol Hotel, Cockspur
Street.
[Sidenote: Sandringham, Saturday, Jan. 7.]
By 10.57 train from Shoreditch. Arrived at Dersingham 3.20; carriage to
meet us. Prince most kind. Dinner, whist, loo, etc.
[Sidenote: Sunday, Jan. 8.]
Party here--Woodward, the librarian from Windsor; Frederick Leighton,
artist; George Grey and Lady Morton in waiting; Miss Knollys, etc.;
Lord Hamilton. To morning church. The Prince gave me a gold pin. The
young Prince’s birthday: one year old, fine little fellow. Walked to
see Brereton.
[Sidenote: Sandringham, Jan. 9.]
George Grey and I to meet Villebois hounds--H. Seymour, Mrs. Dugdale
Astley, Hammonds, etc. No scent, back early. Prince and self planted
first apple and pear trees in new kitchen garden. Duchess of Cambridge
arrived, attended by Lady Somerset and Purvis, also Lord Harris and
Helps.
[Sidenote: Jan. 10.]
We went, some nine guns, partridge-shooting, with over thirty beaters
to drive. The wind high, and birds fast for me. Great function was
the hot luncheon in a barn. Sat next the Princess at dinner: the most
charming of all Princesses.
[Sidenote: Jan. 11.]
Hounds met near. A large party from Sandringham, Lord Harris, P.
Feilding, and self being mounted as well as the staff, Princess driving
Duchess of Cambridge. Mrs. Dugdale Astley, Mrs. Villebois, and others
out. Fox killed; bad scent.
[Sidenote: Dewlish, Jan. 12.]
Lord Harris and self took leave of their kind Royal Highnesses. At Lynn
station joined by Lord George Bentinck. In London by 3.50. Had time for
chop at club. By train to Dorchester. Midnight before I got to Dewlish,
Field-Marshal Sir J. Michel, G.C.B.
[Sidenote: Jan. 13.]
Owing to Lord Ilchester’s death our visit to Minterne postponed. Horses
had, however, arrived there. Large party in house, Radcliffe’s hounds
meeting near. Rode “Canteen.” Dry, cold, snow on ground; bad scent.
Lost first fox; short run with second.
[Sidenote: Dewlish, Jan. 15.]
To morning service. In the clergyman found an old friend at the Cape in
1828. He then in army, son of old Blair who kept the hounds.
[Sidenote: Jan. 16.]
To a near meet with Radcliffe’s hounds. Michel, his daughter Rachel,
very pretty, and Miss Kelyar, also pretty, with us. Two scrambling
races; one fox killed, another to a drain. Much taken out of “Balloon.”
[Sidenote: Jan. 17.]
With Lady Michel to Dorchester. Train to Poole. Bus to Bournemouth to
look after quarters on Colin’s account. Fanny Albemarle and P. Cust
kind and obliging. Took lodgings and returned to dine.
[Sidenote: Jan. 18.]
Was to have hunted with Digby, Vale of White Horse. Fancied frost too
sharp.
[Sidenote: Jan. 19.]
Although a sharp frost, went out with Michel to meet Radcliffe’s
hounds. Heard that the Vale had had a good run yesterday! Have greatly
enjoyed visit to Dewlish, so kind and good to everybody.
[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
As there was no Minterne visit, horses had to return to Bishopstoke.
Rode one of them to Dorchester station, wife and Colin following, where
I had taken lodgings.
[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
Found niece Augusta North here with her children. Dined with P. Cust
and Fanny Albemarle, meeting Tom Pasley, Lord Winchilsea with pretty
wife, late F. Rice, Cust’s son-in-law and daughter, the Kennedys, a Mr.
Hay and wife: agreeable party.
[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]
Bitter cold; church reported High Pusey. Let wife go alone.
[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]
By rail to Bishopstoke; cottage snug and comfortable, but dull without
the wife and kid.
[Sidenote: Jan. 25.]
Snow, and barometer falling. Dined with the Dean. Felt my way home with
a bull’s-eye lantern--pelting rain!
[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]
Preferred walking to station to having horse roughed. Train to
Christchurch. Bus to Bournemouth.
[Sidenote: Jan. 30.]
By bus to Christchurch and train to Bishopstoke. George Deane called
with invite for me to shoot with Chamberlayne.
[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]
Wife and Colin came by 3 P.M., looking all the better, and most
welcome, as I had enough of being alone.
[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Feb. 3.]
This morning’s post brought further information with regard to the
Straits Settlements.
At 2.40 telegram from Prince of Wales, stating that they would be
passing at 3, and proposing we should bring our boy to the station to
meet their Royal Highnesses. Obeyed command and enjoyed a too short
interview.
[Sidenote: Feb. 4.]
Meet of Hambledon at Marwell; wife and Colin there. Killed one fox,
and a fast but short run after another. Henry West arrived by train to
dinner. Atkins sent us some excellent snipe.
[Sidenote: Feb. 5.]
H. West and I to morning church. Sister Caroline staying at Rectory:
there since Thursday. Visit from Standish, bringing Harry Stephenson
from the _Bombay_.
[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]
Willie Standish having given Henry a mount, meet at Crab Wood; we drove
to Hursley--best run of the season. Lamed “Balloon” by falling into
a road--a drift of snow tripping him on landing,--a badly-cut knee.
Walked to Winchester; horse from Tubbs; led “Balloon” home.
[Sidenote: Feb. 8.]
Meet at Hambledon at George Deane’s. Carried Colin up to see meet.
Rode “Canteen,” sending Dawson on Tubbs’ mare to Cams. Dennison from
Portsmouth came in for cherry brandy.
[Sidenote: Feb. 9.]
Vet. Retford to see horses; mare still stiff and lame; “Balloon,” ugly
wound, but doing well.
[Sidenote: Feb. 10.]
Repeated visit to Bishopstoke; all well at home, but felt that I had no
business to absent myself on my selfish amusement of hunting.
[Sidenote: Feb. 11.]
By train to Gosport. On board _Victory_. Court-martial on loss of
_Bombay_. No end of friends. Visited young Garnier at Mrs. Knight’s
school. Lunched with Fred and Mrs. Hutton. At Cams; found Elliot Yorkes.
[Sidenote: Feb. 13.]
Frost and no hunting.
[Sidenote: Feb. 14.]
H. Delmé with Pat Blake and Elliot Yorke to see Fred Radcliffe and his
“Fair Rosamond” at Gosport.
[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]
Sold “Canteen” to W. C. Alexander for £150. Sent to Tubbs for a
mount. Meet at Warmford. Breakfast with Eccles, having picked up
Chapman and George Deane. Tubbs’ brute, a gray, fell with me into a
lane; difficulty in getting home; a talk when there; got letters from
Alexander returning “Canteen” for a whistler; don’t believe it, having
only lately bought him of F. Delmé Radcliffe, for more than I could
well afford.
[Sidenote: Feb. 27.]
Glad to have secured house in London. Letter from Alexander, who is
a gentleman, taking my word in preference to the Vet.’s; sent me a
cheque for £150, which I returned. Captain Grimston offered me £30 for
“Balloon,” which I declined.
[Sidenote: Feb. 28.]
“Canteen” returned this morning. Standish called, kindly offering to
take care of “Balloon” until sold, which I accepted. He also took Dick
King and the mare.
[Sidenote: Mar. 4.]
Found wife and Colin at Leinster Gardens. Lunched 15 Cadogan Place.
Called on Miss Burdett-Coutts and Rajah Brooke, also on Albemarle, his
wife and Charteris.
[Sidenote: Mar. 7.]
Navy Club dinner; Mundy in chair. Rajah Brooke guest; about thirty
present. Walked with Rajah to call on Miss Burdett-Coutts.
[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]
Moved into No. 40 Connaught Square.
[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]
Declined a mount kindly offered by Henry West with the old Berkeley:
great temptation though! Dined with Henry Eyre in Berkeley Square,
meeting Le Marchant, Dacres, and others.
[Sidenote: London, Mar. 13.]
At club found letter--W. Standish’s cheque for £35 for “Balloon.” Good
beast in good hands. Made calls on Lord Palmerston and Admiral Rous.
Declined Lord Campbell’s kind offer of house room.
[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]
Ballot at club among about thirty candidates. Bowyear elected. Dined
with Thorolds; meeting pleasant; party as usual.
[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]
Governorship of Singapore engrossing my thoughts. Went to Houses of
Parliament: introduced to W. H. Read’s friend Clerke Seymour.
[Sidenote: Mar. 16.]
Saw Duke of Somerset’s secretary; intimated to him to communicate that
when applied to by Cardwell His Grace should not throw cold water on my
appointment. Hope I may get it.
[Sidenote: Mar. 17.]
Saw Blackwood at Colonial Office; talk about Straits Settlements; don’t
think I shall get it.
[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]
[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]
Major Lord D’Arcy Osborn rather a fancy for “Canteen,” although not
for his price, £75. Made sundry calls. Sir George Seymour ill in bed.
Letter from Lord D’Arcy Osborn, offering £75 for “Canteen,” and to call
at my club on the morrow.
[Sidenote: Mar. 21.]
Lord D’Arcy and brother came to club and agreed to take my horse.
Dinner at Navy Club, Shrewsbury in the chair. Afterwards to Pratt’s.
[Sidenote: Mar. 22.]
Attended levée.
[Sidenote: Mar. 23.]
Called on and had a chat with Rokeby. Dined with sister Mary, going
afterwards to wandering minstrels at Lord Gerald Fitzgerald’s.
* * * * *
Kept journal irregularly at this time.
[Sidenote: May 4.]
My sweet May born this day.
* * * * *
[Sidenote: June 27.]
Death of Mrs. Selwyn prevented Tom Whichcote coming to us for the
Bibury and Stockbridge Races. Edward Russell and George Fitzroy came,
but no races for poor E. R. The wife not strong, but she appeared at
dinner.
[Sidenote: June 28.]
George Fitzroy and I to Romsey: shunted there for an hour, but in time
for the first race. Bibury Day, and broiling hot.
[Sidenote: June 29.]
Got on with less delay at Romsey. The usual Stockbridge race weather.
Heavy rain. Picked up Henry Fitzroy and brought him back to dinner.
[Sidenote: June 30.]
Friend Edward Russell took his departure--good fellow. George Fitzroy
and I to races; did no good. Henry went home from the course.
[Sidenote: July 6.]
Started for 3.15 P.M. train, but no possibility of getting to Woolmer
before 9 P.M. Left portmanteau at Liss; walked from Liphook; changed
into Archie’s clothes.
[Sidenote: Woolmer, July 7.]
Lovely place this Woolmer!--Powerscourt, H. Stephenson, Salvin, a great
naturalist, with cormorants to catch fish, Colonel Hagarth and wife.
Had an amusing afternoon’s sport with the birds: no end of trout.
[Sidenote: July 8.]
More bother to get across Hants than to go to Bath. At 8.40 started in
dogcart to Liphook, by rail _viâ_ Havant; got home in four hours.
[Sidenote: July 11.]
Archie Macdonald, Sheriff for the County, came with Keppel Stephenson
and his chaplain, Rev. Randolph Keppel Stephenson, had a bed at the
Dean’s.
[Sidenote: July 12.]
Lent wife’s carriage to Dean to vote for Bonham Carter. We all dined
with the Dean in great force at result of election.
[Sidenote: Norfolk, July 17.]
At Swaffham met Lord Hastings, who took me on to Melton Constable.
Canvassed with Mrs. Dugdale Astley.
[Sidenote: July 18.]
On Hastings drag, four grays, to poll at Keepham.
[Sidenote: July 19.]
With Gurdon and Sons to nomination at Swaffham. Got Bury to propose
Gurdon. After lunch to Quidenham with Bury.
[Sidenote: July 22.]
Voted for Gurdon and Jones at Thetford. By express to London. By 1.10
P.M. train to Winchester. Voted for Mildmay. Something to vote in
Thetford and Winchester same day.
[Sidenote: Sept. 11.]
Train from Bishopstoke through London. Joined Col. C. Baillie in fly to
Wentworth Woodhouse, meeting George and Mrs. Fitzwilliam, Sir James and
Lady Mary Wilde, Count Havonet, Fawkes, Teesdale, Colonels Charles and
William Baillie.
[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Sept. 29.]
Received intimation from Clerk of the Peace of the Lord-Lieutenant,
Winchester, having signed my commission as a magistrate of the county!
[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]
Had a meeting of ratepayers in vestry to consider the inefficient state
of drainage. Atkins and Co. too strong for us: nothing decided on. No
hope, unless cholera lays hold of one of them.
[Sidenote: Oct. 10.]
Having taken a six months’ season ticket, went up. Returned by 5 P.M.
train. Cæsarewitch won by Salpinetes: a fiver on him at 6 to 1.
[Sidenote: Oct. 14.]
In dogcart to Southampton to buy Colin a pair of gloves. Met George
Day. On by King for something more of Salpinetes, Day, late one of my
Mids, winning over £5000!
[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]
To Winchester to take the oaths as Justice of the Peace. By train to
London; attended Board of Anglo-Greek Co.; much bother by Count Mataxa.
[Sidenote: Oct. 18.]
Dined with the Dean, for which purpose we borrowed his brougham. Sad
intelligence of Lord Palmerston’s death reached by telegraph.
[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]
Colonel Randolph came down to look over cottage and stables. Stopped
luncheon and took no notice of Colin! Drove wife into Winchester. Went
over Tubbs’ stud.
[Sidenote: Oct. 21.]
Drove dogcart into Southampton. Toys for the dear wife’s boy, 6s. 2d.!
[Sidenote: Oct. 22.]
George Lennox came into church, and whispered he was coming to lunch
afterwards. He borrowed a half-crown of me, intending to stop for the
communion service; but after the sermon he slipped the coin back into
my hand, saying, “That fellow has so bored me, I am unfit to stay to
the sacrament”!
[Sidenote: Oct. 28.]
By train to Winchester. Attended for first time as magistrate. Special
sessions.
[Sidenote: Oct. 30.]
Made a partial clearance in the cellar. Several articles brought to
light. Pair of clam shells for the Cummings.
[Sidenote: Oct. 31.]
By early train to London; on returning, stepping out before train
had stopped at Bishopstoke, fell, striking back against handle of a
wheelbarrow. Pain very great. Home and to bed.
[Sidenote: Nov. 1.]
Tenants coming in, obliged to clear out. Unable to accompany wife and
children to Bournemouth; was kindly taken in by Cummings. At once to
bed, being in some pain and under impression that ribs were broken.
Examined by Dr. Goldston; severe contusion, muscles bruised. Arnica
applied, etc. Time and patience!
[Sidenote: Nov. 7.]
Took Charles Pilkington with me in dogcart to the opening of Albert
Infirmary, Bishop’s Waltham. Prince Arthur, Princesses Helena and
Louisa. Luncheon by Helps. Everything well done. Prayer by Bishop of
Winchester. Concert in old Palace.
[Sidenote: Bournemouth, Nov. 12.]
To afternoon service. Do not approve of High Church practice. Why one
is, on going to church to pray, to be inflicted for half-an-hour with
the catechism of children, I do not understand.
[Sidenote: Sunday, Nov. 26.]
To morning service; a little too much High Church. Seven parsons in the
holiest place!
[Sidenote: Nov. 27.]
Arrived from London late in the evening at Brinsley Sheridan’s place,
Frampton Court.
[Sidenote: Frampton Court, Nov. 28.]
As pretty a day’s shooting as one could wish. Five guns, of which
George Bentinck was the best. B. Sheridan, Lord Archibald St. Maur,
Lord Henry Thynne, and self made the number. There are few houses where
guests are made to feel so welcome as at Frampton Court.
[Sidenote: Nov. 29.]
Same guns, with the exception of Lord H. Thynne, who hunted. All
rabbits found in patches of gorse on side of hill on the Downs. Party
at Frampton Court--Lord Harry and Lady Elrica Thynne, Mr. Lowe, George
Bentinck, Mrs. Phipps, Mr. and Mrs. Col. Digby, Lady Gifford, Mr. and
Mrs. Marker, E. Digby’s daughter. Dinners excellent, wines ditto. Ditto
conversation in smoking-room later!
[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]
Another, the great day’s shooting; same five guns; no prettier
shooting. Two woodcocks; one to my gun.
[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]
Mounted by Lord H. Thynne on a four-year old; kicking at starting.
Short run with Lord Poltimore’s hounds. Home by 3.30 to catch train to
Christchurch. Happy to get back to the “buzzom” of my family.
[Sidenote: Bournemouth, Dec. 3.]
My darling boy’s birthday; three years, and indeed a fine specimen.
[Sidenote: Dec. 4.]
Glad to get wife out; a fly to Fane’s, where I shot. Guns, Colonel
Fergusson-Davies, Melville, a young Fane, Colonel Fane, and I. Cheery
house to be in.
[Sidenote: Dec. 5.]
Mislaid portmanteau and missed my dinner, very much, with the dear old
Dean at Winchester.
[Sidenote: Dec. 7.]
With Sheriff (Archie Macdonald) to meet Judge at station. Party to
dinner at Deanery.
[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]
Sworn in as foreman of the Grand Jury: novel position, got through
with assistance of Curzon. Dinner at the Dean’s; large party, chiefly
clergy. Well-fed, jolly lot.
[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]
All the churches under influence of Mr. Bennett, of too much notoriety.
“What can do.” Hard upon those who like to worship and pray to the
Almighty in a quiet way.
[Sidenote: Dec. 14.]
Took my boy for walk in afternoon. What a companion is a small child
when it’s your own! Crape round hat for Mrs. Wodehouse and King Leopold.
[Sidenote: Dec. 16.]
Albemarle-Custs arrived safe after their perilous voyage in a saloon
carriage from London.
[Sidenote: Dec. 17.]
Enjoyed a morning walk with Colin on the beach; although wrong,
preferred it to High Church with no place for my hat!
[Sidenote: Dec. 21.]
A walk with my boy; so companionable. The wife coming out, we dined
with Cust-Albemarle.
[Sidenote: Dec. 23.]
By train from Shoreditch. Took charge of Louisa Eyre as far as Harling
Road. Dunmore for company. Did not get to Holkham until 8.20 P.M.
Picked up Burys _en route_. Family gathering. Dunmore engaged to
Gertrude.
[Sidenote: Holkham, Dec. 24.]
Party, besides family, Burys, Dunmore, Powerscourts, W. Coke, S.
Stephenson, Powell, Tridcroft, Caulfield, Porter.
[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]
To morning service. How difficult it is to fall in with a good
preacher, especially when an extempore, with beard and moustache! Whist
in evening.
[Sidenote: Dec. 26.]
Shooting to-day--outskirts; twelve guns. Best of the shooting kept for
the Prince. My bag 25 hares, 2 rabbits, 2 pheasants. Jolly party in the
house. Henry Seymour and wife arrived.
[Sidenote: Dec. 27.]
Walk with Seymour.
[Sidenote: Dec. 28.]
Shooting to-day, same guns nearly; more driving than shooting. Seymours
left. Gurdons came.
[Sidenote: Dec. 29.]
Walk with B. Gurdon: he all the talk. Blind man’s buff in afternoon.
Knocked my old head against chimney-piece--much to its inconvenience.
Dance after dinner in statue gallery; whist also. Bury fallen on by
Powerscourt, damaged ribs.
[Sidenote: Quidenham, Dec. 30.]
With Sophy Bury after luncheon to Wells--by train to Quidenham; kindly
welcomed. Louisa Charteris there, Bury children nice.
[Sidenote: Dec. 31.]
The old year going out in a storm. Went to church.
CHAPTER LXXXII
A SHORE JOURNAL
[Sidenote: 1866. Jan. 1.]
Out shooting with brother George--partridges.
[Sidenote: Jan. 2.]
Wild partridge shooting with Charles Clements: 20 brace, 5 hares, 6
guns.
[Sidenote: Jan. 3.]
After shooting to meet friend Henry Eyre at Garboldisham.
[Sidenote: Jan. 4.]
Mount with scratch pack harriers.
[Sidenote: Jan. 5.]
Each afternoon I have sat with poor William Hoste; although he looks
cheery and well in face, am afraid his days are numbered.
[Sidenote: Jan. 8.]
Found Holkham full; with P. Powell, Elphinstone, Dunmore, Tredcroft at
the Inn, W. Coke and Sussex Stephenson going to Pinnock’s to make room.
Attended at 4.30 P.M. to receive the Prince and Princess of Wales, Lady
Morton and George Grey in attendance.
[Sidenote: Holkham, Jan. 9.]
Party in house to meet their Royal Highnesses, Duke and Duchess of
Roxburghe, Lord Beaumont, Lord and Lady Suffield, Lord and Lady
Spencer, Lord and Lady Powerscourt, Lords Hamilton and Dunmore and Mr.
de Grey, Edward and Di Coke, P. Powell, Tredcroft, Capt. Elphinstone,
W. Coke, S. Stephenson, Gen. Porter and T. Dunmore, Lord Alexander
Murray. Grand shooting; did not carry gun until the finish with the
rocketers, when I had one of Leicester’s. A cheery dance in the
evening, in which old and young joined.
[Sidenote: Jan. 10.]
A day on the marshes--gentlemen beaters, ladies attending luncheon.
Hamilton, Porter, and self fell into draining ditches.
[Sidenote: Jan. 11.]
Weather bad--this, the best day’s shooting, postponed. Fair day of
sport though.
[Sidenote: Jan. 12.]
This the grand day. Over 2000 head killed. Luncheon under large tent.
Princess and ladies there. Dance in the evening, I dancing a quadrille
with the most charming of Princesses!
[Sidenote: Jan. 15.]
At Pratt’s--chat with John Hay.
[Sidenote: Jan. 16.]
Joined wife at Deanery, Winchester. Party of twelve at dinner.
[Sidenote: Jan. 18.]
By early train to Wolverton. Joined by Lord Clanwilliam and party going
to Sandringham, Prince and Princess coming back from visit to General
Hall.
[Sidenote: Sandringham, Jan. 19.]
Hounds met Sandringham, Prince giving me a mount. Princess out: capital
gallop. Enjoy my visit much.
[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
Percy Feilding and self taken by the Prince to shoot at Mr. Bagge’s;
excellent day. Pleased with my own performance. Not dressed in time
for dinner, but was spotted by her kind Royal Highness the Duchess of
Cambridge, who saw “the little Admiral” as he was trying to sneak in
behind the servants.
[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
To forenoon church, Charles Kingsley performing.
[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]
Departure of party; invited by Villebois with the Prince to shoot
driven partridges. 270 brace bagged during a continual rain.
[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]
Finish to a most agreeable four days, Prince and Princess starting for
Duke of Sutherland’s, Staffordshire, Duchess of Cambridge and remainder
by rail to London. Dined with Cecilia Yorke. Party at Lord Powlett’s.
[Sidenote: Jan. 24.]
Train to Bournemouth. Colin and May looking so well.
[Sidenote: Jan. 25.]
Dined with Stephens; she, daughter of Sir H. Pottinger of China
notoriety.
[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]
Dined with Albemarle-Custs.
[Sidenote: Feb. 3.]
Attended Bench, Winchester.
[Sidenote: Feb. 5.]
Dined with Page, engineer, meeting T. Weller and Ward, artist. Pleasant
party.
[Sidenote: Minterne, Feb. 10.]
To friend Digby, I bringing a couple of horses from Chapman’s.
[Sidenote: Feb. 12.]
Hunted with Sir Richard Glynn’s hounds. Met many friends. Plenty of
foxes, but no good run. Pleased with my mount. Medlycotts coming to
dinner.
[Sidenote: Feb. 13.]
With Lord Poltimore’s hounds. Good run, Severe, heavy country. One
fall. Ground soft; several others ditto.
[Sidenote: Feb. 14.]
Despatches from friend Read at Singapore. Should like to go out as
Governor. Stormy weather again. Young ones rabbit shooting, I helping
to cut up and clear away wreck of trees blown down.
[Sidenote: Feb. 16.]
Out with Poltimore. Good run with second fox. My usual ill luck; badly
lamed one of Chapman’s horses--cut on fetlock, off foreleg, supposed to
be by flint.
[Sidenote: Feb. 18.]
Afternoon service near Marker’s house. Small, very nice old-fashioned
place. Good sermon--rare event.
[Sidenote: Feb. 19.]
Came down prepared for the chase. Frost pronounced to be too severe,
especially over Poltimore’s downy country. Letter from Mr. Crawshay,
enclosing an interesting one from Bishop Colenso. Young Digby, Marker
and I, shot rabbits. Mr. Alexander Baring came. Porter left.
[Sidenote: Feb. 20.]
Letter from wife. Colin ill. Changed hunting costume and rode to
Dorchester; train to Poole. Found the children bad--severe colds.
[Sidenote: Minterne, Feb. 21.]
Horse from King’s Arms to Minterne. In time for luncheon. Walk with
Alexander Baring.
[Sidenote: Feb. 22.]
Hunted with B.V. hounds. Rode new horse of Chapman’s--fine animal.
Digby, Marker, Edward Digby and self--a good show from here. One fox
chopped; a second found. No scent. Jolly day though.
[Sidenote: Feb. 23.]
Young Digby and I to the B.V. hounds. Mounted by B. Brooke. Capital
jumper. Good short run, and part of another. Put hack up at
Littletrab’s--Webbes, Medlycott, and Surtees out.
[Sidenote: Feb. 24.]
With Poltimore’s hounds. Two good runs. Several falls, I, an absurd
one. Marker’s horse killed. My last day’s hunting.
[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Feb. 28.]
Dear old Dean entered his ninety-first year. Attended court as grand
juryman. Managed not to be sworn in as foreman. Lunched with Arthur
Cumming. Rajah Brooke there. Returned to Winchester. Dinner party as
usual.
[Sidenote: Mar. 1.]
Meeting of magistrates on cattle plague--Chamberlayne, Bullpitt, Wells,
Mulock, self.
[Sidenote: Ashwarby, Mar. 12.]
By train to London and Grantham. Whichcote to meet us. Welcomed to
Ashwarby.
[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]
[Sidenote: Mar. 16.]
Started for Croxton Park races. Weather unusually fine. Whichcote’s
horse, “Chance,” nowhere. Our party: Mrs. Franklin, Henry Gray, George
Fitzroy, Colonel Fane. Back in time for 8 o’clock dinner.
[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]
Forenoon service. Longish sermon that I did not hear. Took leave of
kind friends.
[Sidenote: Mar. 19.]
To London. Attended levée, presenting Harry Stephenson. Dined with Mr.
Page, engineer.
[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Mar. 26.]
Attempt to fly-fish, having seen two rises. Lost two hooks in two
walnut trees. Margaret Garnier and Tom came, former to stay.
[Sidenote: Mar. 31.]
Winchester to attend bench. Luncheon at Deane’s. Thermistophles to win
City and Suburban.
[Sidenote: April 3.]
Another large party, chiefly doctors and “rooks,” also young Lord
Mulgrave.
[Sidenote: April 4.]
By early train home. Dined with Atherlys--first-rate.
[Sidenote: April 10.]
By train to London. Received, through George Elliot, an offer to take
command of the Paraguayan navy: they at war with the Brazilians.
* * * * *
This looked like business. Before giving answer, certain inquiries to
be made. My name would be removed from Her Majesty’s navy list, for
which I should require remuneration. A certain number of warships:
a couple of ironclads to begin with, and a place to reside in while
ships were being manned and fitted. £34,000 for loss of commission.
The first and greatest difficulty was consent of wife. The Paraguayan
agents appeared to be well satisfied. I intended to select, as soon
as a proper ship had been provided, the beautiful bay, Bahia, off the
Brazilian coast, as place of rendezvous. I had to provide officers
in anticipation. The agents had already provided charts, which I
daily studied. However, it all ended without smoke. Means were not
forthcoming; the whole affair was quickly forgotten!
[Sidenote: April 21.]
To Cosham, on Chamberlayne’s drag to Hambledown. Hunt races. Capital
meeting.
CHAPTER LXXXIII
HOME LIFE
[Sidenote: 1866. Yachting, April 25.]
Embarked on board _Dream_, George Bentinck, in time for dinner. At
about 9 P.M. a fruit trading steamer, weather fine, water smooth, moon
shining bright, ran into two yachts: _Ione_, Captain R. Quin, R.N.,
and _Intrepid_, Count F. du Monceaux, carrying away their bowsprits,
damaging bows and knocking two men overboard. _Ione_ was to have joined
us on a cruise.
[Sidenote: _Dream_, R.Y.S., April 26.]
10 A.M.--Got under weigh: light breeze from eastward. Cook, the same
artist Whichcote had in _Enchantress_. _Dream_ substantially built and
very comfortable; yawl rigged. Made fast to a buoy in Portland Harbour.
_St. George_ lying here, commanded by old shipmate E. Rice. Laid out
trammel for red mullet, which are generally plentiful and good here,
but caught whiting pont only.
[Sidenote: Portland, April 27.]
After breakfast landed with Bentinck. Convicts at work; got some fair
specimens of ammonite and fossil shells. Accompanied Rice on board _St.
George_; guns, stores on board, ready for service, to be manned from
coastguard.
[Sidenote: April 29.]
Bentinck read prayers to a well-conducted and attentive crew.
[Sidenote: April 30.]
[Sidenote: May 3.]
Visited works on the heights by convicts. When the fortifications are
finished, where will the men come from to garrison them? Saw the fossil
trees; some stumps erect, and others buried in the solid stone.
[Sidenote: May 4.]
My May’s birthday--promising little yearling.
[Sidenote: Cherbourg, May 5.]
Visited Consul Hammond on the hill, from whose garden the view is very
fine. Consul has two charming daughters. He came on board to dine.
[Sidenote: May 7.]
Slipped from the buoy. Sent a boat in for grub, standing off and on.
Made fast to a buoy under breakwater.
[Sidenote: May 10.]
Weather tide, nasty swell; felt too sea-sick to turn out before 2 P.M.,
when we got into Portland Roads. Took leave of kind host in time for
mutton chops, wife dining with the Dean.
[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, May 20.]
Forenoon church. Wife and I received Holy Sacrament, administered by
the Dean, perhaps last time.
[Sidenote: May 25.]
Visit from Rev. Charles Kingsley, the author, who stopped to dine with
Dean, where we were.
[Sidenote: May 27.]
Forenoon church. Dear old Dean still reading, or rather repeating by
heart, the prayers as far as the Litany, in which he included the
Collect for the day--Trinity Sunday.
[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, May 31.]
Telegraph from friend, Page C.E. Off to London; knowing how much I
wanted a job, he informed me of his having undertaken to raise a large
ironship, the _London_, lying at the bottom of the Tay, below Dundee,
and offered me the job of navigating her into dock, or some place where
she could be got at for repair.
[Sidenote: June 1.]
Was invited by the Committee to fill the chair at R.N. Club dinner
to celebrate the anniversary of Howes’s victory, anniversary also
of action between _Shannon_ and _Chesapeake_. Poor little Fatshan
forgotten!
While sitting on bridge over the Itchen in garden, observed a tomtit’s
nest in the muzzle of a gun captured on 1st of June in Fatshan
Creek--curious the uses to which a gun may be put.
[Sidenote: June 25.]
By train to Dundee. Wife and I in possession of apartments at the Royal
Hotel, where we expected to find Mr. Page.
[Sidenote: Dundee, June 26.]
Found Mr. Secretary Cooper; no further difficulties. Visited wreck near
low water with working party. The _London_ belonged to the London and
Dundee Steam Company; in December last came in collision with a steam
trader, _Harvest Queen_; both vessels went down. _Harvest Queen_ got
up, but being grounded on a bank, broke her back. Mr. Cooper, Secretary
to the Company, very civil and obliging. Mr. Low, one of the Directors,
also very civil. Page not arrived.
Visited the _London_ in a steam tug. Two divers, under management of
Mr. Gorman, Admiralty man. There is an ugly fracture on the starboard
side, about fifteen feet to nothing, about three feet from the bottom
iron, jagged on both sides, the fore side of fracture bent inward, on
after side, outwards, supposed to be done at the time the _Harvest
Queen_ separated by backing astern. Proposed to cover the hatchway on
main deck with coverings secured. Divers report that seals have taken
up their quarters in the state-rooms, and haddocks swim freely in the
’tween decks.
[Sidenote: July 14.]
Change of Ministry--Lord Derby, Prime Minister; Sir John Pakington,
First Lord; Vice-Admiral Sir Alexander Milne, First Sea. _This_ does
not break my heart.
Saturday, a drunken day amongst workmen in Scotland, or the _London_
might, I think, have been lifted. 2 A.M. Sunday morning before we got
back.
* * * * *
Raising the _London_ proved a failure, and after spending two months
in Dundee, where wife and self were hospitably entertained by friends,
we returned to Bishopstoke at the end of August, Colin and May having
benefited by the bracing Scotch air.
CHAPTER LXXXIV
THE COMMAND IN CHINA
[Sidenote: 1866. Dec. 13.]
I insert the following by kind permission:--
(_Private._) OAKLEY PARK, SCOLE, NORFOLK,
_December 12, 1866_.
MY DEAR SIR HENRY--I am glad to be able to tell you that I received a
letter from Sir John Pakington this morning, announcing his intention
of offering you, with the Queen’s approval, the China Command, as
Admiral King is going to give up, and I am only too happy if I have
in any small way been the means of getting Sir John to give you this
Command.
Both he and the whole Admiralty are very well disposed towards you,
and I am sure that you will do all in your power to show them that
you are anxious to distinguish yourself during this Command, as you
always have done on previous occasions.--Believe me, yours very
sincerely,
(Signed) ALBERT EDWARD.
God bless the Prince of Wales!
A letter from Sir John Pakington followed.
The gratification this afforded me I cannot well describe. The five
long years’ treatment I had received at the hands of the Admiralty
fretted me.
The want of a residence, the unhealthiness of Hong-Kong, as well as
the improbability of the flagship remaining there for more than a few
days at a time, now that a Commodore has been appointed: the unsettled
state of our relations with Japan, as well as the uncertainty of the
period that I might retain the Command (being only five from the top
of the list of Vice-Admirals), were only a few of the difficulties
of a wife in China. However, I persuaded her to give up all idea of
going with me, promising, if at the end of my first year there were
two Vice-Admirals on the list above me, she might come out with the
children.
Letters of congratulation flowed in from kind friends. From the Prince
of Wales; dear Dean Garnier; one from Charles Kingsley, which much
pleased me.
(_Copy_) EVERSLEY RECTORY, WINCHFIELD,
_December 17, 1866_.
MY DEAR ADMIRAL--I have this moment heard that you are to have
the China Squadron. Accept my most cordial congratulations, most
disinterested ones, likewise, for I am afraid that I shall not have
the pleasure of seeing you for some time to come. May you prosper and
enjoy yourself as you deserve, and kill a few more pirates: they seem
to be wanting you again in those parts. Believe me, with most kind
regards to Lady Keppel, ever yours, overjoyed,
(Signed) C. KINGSLEY.
Letters from shipmates, down to my old steward, William White, now
an Admiralty messenger, came pouring in, together with applications
from and about officers to be appointed, giving me more than enough to
do. Besides the Prince of Wales, the Dukes of Buccleuch and Richmond,
as well as my kind kinsman, Peregrine Cust, interested themselves in
getting me employment.
King, in command in China, had expressed a wish to be relieved without
delay. His flagship, the _Princess Royal_, was ordered down to
Singapore so as to save the last of the northerly monsoon, bringing
the _Salamis_, commanded by my old friend and shipmate, Francis Suttie,
to receive my flag.
I was ordered a passage by the overland route, to leave Southampton on
February 20, 1867. Risk, paymaster in the _Alert_, then in the Pacific,
and Harry Stephenson, commanding a gunboat on the Lakes of Canada, were
ordered home as my Secretary and Flag-Lieutenant, and I selected friend
Heneage as Captain.
I was invited by the Prince of Wales to Sandringham to take leave,
and afterwards accompanied their Royal Highnesses to Holkham for the
Christmas week. On the way back stopped a day at Quidenham, and one
with friend General Eyre, who had taken Garboldisham.
[Sidenote: 1867. Jan. 21.]
On January 21 went to Sheerness and hoisted flag on board the
_Cumberland_, which was in due form saluted by the flagship of Sir
Baldwin Walker, who kindly took us into Admiralty House. At the same
time was hoisted the pennant on board _Rodney_, then in the basin.
[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]
Returned to London. Having received a letter from Cowell stating that
he had received Her Majesty’s command to invite me to Windsor on
February 25, to stay till the following day, the Admiralty ordered my
passage _viâ_ Marseilles instead of Southampton, giving me four or five
days’ grace.
Went by invitation, to Miss Burdett-Coutts at Torquay to take leave of
my valued friend Rajah Brooke, who had lately had a paralytic stroke.
Found him partially recovered, but spirits good and his powerful mind
apparently unaffected. (I never saw him again.) Left early to join
wife, staying with the Custs at Bournemouth. Taking leave of these most
kind and hospitable relations we returned to Bishopstoke for the last
days. General Charles Fox had kindly offered his house, Addison Road,
Kensington: our likenesses being painted by Henry Graves had yet to be
finished.
[Sidenote: Feb. 24.]
Farewell dinner with H.R.H. the Prince of Wales.
[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]
Went down to Windsor. At Paddington found Lady Caroline Barrington,
availing myself of the carriage sent for her when we reached Windsor.
Dined, a household dinner, Lady Caroline Barrington and Miss Macdonald
in waiting with Biddulph and Cowell. After dinner, was summoned into
the presence of Her Majesty in the corridor, the Queen still wearing
the widow’s cap. However, I was received with one of Her Majesty’s
pleasantest smiles, and after some twelve minutes’ conversation,
chiefly about the Duke of Edinburgh and Count Gleichen, I was
graciously dismissed. Cowell saw me into my train.
[Sidenote: Feb. 26.]
Risk, lately married, was likewise ordered a passage _viâ_ Marseilles.
My boy stated when he saw me off in the train at Bishopstoke that
“Dadda would get out at the China station!” Found French steam packet
at Dover; rail to Paris and Marseilles, where we arrived at 12.30 P.M.
Took possession of the cabin allotted me on board the mail steamer,
opening into the saloon!
CHAPTER LXXXV
BOUND FOR CHINA
[Sidenote: 1867. Malta, Mar. 2.]
It was half-past ten o’clock on the night of March 2nd when we
arrived at Malta. Clarence Paget came off; we landed together. Rem
Macdonald kept with me, but all the shops were closed, and the Carnival
commenced. Left a letter at Admiralty House and re-embarked.
We were off before daylight, and arrived at Alexandria on the 7th.
Here, met my old friend James Willoughby, who had been appointed Joint
Superintendent, with a military man, to attend the transit through
Egypt of our troops to India. It was about four when we reached
Cairo. Here we were joined by Harry Stephenson, who had come _viâ_
Southampton. We were informed that we were not to go on to Suez until
the following day. A rush was made to secure beds. The best had been
already bespoken by the Southampton passengers. However, Stephenson had
thought of us and secured rooms. The transit through Egypt is managed
by the Government. Most of the officials are French and wear the fez
and Egyptian uniform, as well as religion, for the time, with equal
ease.
[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]
We made another start at 10 A.M. and took a plentiful supply of
oranges, which we found agreeable crossing the desert. At Suez I found
another friend in Dunn the Captain of the P. and O. steamer _Surat_;
we first became acquainted when he was in command of one of the hired
transports at Balaklava. He kindly took me in his gig to visit the
great dock and engineering works carried on by the French under M. de
Lesseps. Time, money, and perseverance will, I believe, complete the
great work of the Suez Canal. De Lesseps is sanguine at no distant
period of being able to pass a ship of the line from the Mediterranean
to the Red Sea. No English capitalists have, however, invested a
shilling in the affair, and the whole nation has come in for an amount
of abuse, attributing our reluctance to share in the French glory to
bad motives.
We did not get away until the morning of the 9th. Among our passengers
was Dr. Milman, the newly-appointed Bishop of Calcutta. He read prayers
on Sunday and gave us a short extemporary discourse. On Perim we have a
lighthouse: some eight years ago, the mail steamer on passing observed
a French brig-of-war surveying; and on the afternoon of the next day
the French captain mentioned to Colonel Coghlan, the Governor of Aden,
with whom he was dining, that he was going the next morning to take
possession of Perim in the name of the French Government. Coghlan,
without rising from table, or taking any apparent notice of what had
been said, pencilled a few words on a scrap of paper to the Captain
of Artillery ordering him to proceed at once with a party and hoist
the British colours on the island. The French captain’s disappointment
the next day when he found himself forestalled would have been worth
seeing. A correspondence took place between the two Governments; when
it was proved that we had prior possession during our war with France,
when we retained Perim, but under a promise we should not fortify it.
Cain is supposed to have been buried there, or thereabouts.
[Sidenote: Aden, Mar. 14.]
Early on Thursday morning we came to in Aden. The Resident, Colonel
Merewether, immediately sent off to invite me to Government House while
the _Surat_ coaled, and sent his carriage to the landing place. It was
pleasant to get into a cool airy house, and to write one’s letters
in peace and quiet. After dinner at three o’clock, we were taken to
see those wonderful water tanks that have lately been cleaned, whose
ancient date no one has been able to decide. The cement with which
the rock’s sides and bottom of the ravine are lined, as well as the
steps, is as perfect and in as good repair as if yesterday’s work. They
had had no rain for eighteen months, but an aqueduct was in progress,
which will shortly bring a supply from a stream some six miles distant.
Experienced much attention and kindness from Captain Dunn.
[Sidenote: Galle, Mar. 23.]
The cleanliness and comfort of the _Surat_ spoilt us for any other
vessel. Nevertheless, on arriving at Point de Galle at 8 A.M. on
the 23rd, we were transferred to _Ottawa_. The yards were manned as
the last little attention the Captain could pay me on quitting the
ship. On landing at Point de Galle I was received by Colonel Hodgson,
Brigadier-General and Commander-in-Chief. In the reign of George
II. this officer’s grandfather and the then Commodore Keppel had
been selected to act together for the capture of Belle Isle from the
French: a friendship between the families was then established and has
continued ever since. We passed the heat of the day in the “Queen’s
House,” occupied by the General, who, after having entertained us at
dinner, embarked with us on board the _Ottawa_: he going to the Straits
Settlements on an official inspection.
We found the _Ottawa_ comparatively small, ill ventilated, with a
suffocating smell of opium. But there was the same civility and
attention that we had experienced on board all the P. and O. Company’s
ships.
[Sidenote: Penang, Mar. 29.]
Anchored in Penang Roads. Went on shore during the six hours the
steamer was to stay, and visited my kind old friends, Mr. and Mrs.
Lewis, both Rodyks, and found one or two other friends of former days
still remaining.
[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]
Found the Straits much improved by a light-vessel, as well as by a good
light on Cape Ricardo.
[Sidenote: Singapore, Mar. 31.]
Sunday at 2 P.M. the _Ottawa_ steamed alongside the P. and O. Company’s
wharf in New Harbour, Singapore. Captains Edge of _Satellite_, Ross of
_Pearl_, Menzies of _Osprey_, and Suttie of _Salamis_ were there to
receive me, as well as friend W. H. Read and the Governor’s secretary,
Mr. Plow, brother to a lad who was with me in the _Forte_. Many other
friends were also there.
As the new Governor, Sir Harry Ord, was to be installed in due form on
the morrow, a few arrangements for salutes and officers’ attendance had
to be made. At 3 P.M. my flag was hoisted on board the _Salamis_ and I
became Commander-in-Chief of the China station, and, being senior, at
once assumed the duties. It being Sunday negatived the salute until the
following morning. On landing was driven by friend Read to his house,
where, by previous arrangement, took up my quarters.
[Sidenote: April 1.]
Read’s house was on one of the numerous hills, each of which is crowned
by a residence. On looking out in the early morning from the verandah,
an extensive view in front of the town and anchorage, and from behind
of the country inland. How many associations of bygone days--some sad,
but many more, pleasant--were brought to mind.
The morning commenced by saluting my flag. At noon we repaired to
the Town Hall to assist in the inauguration of the new Governor, and
the transfer of Straits Settlements from the Indian to the Colonial
Government. Separate salutes were fired on each occasion: an event in
the history of Singapore.
[Sidenote: April 1 to 4.]
Read kindly allotted a room in his new godown, which was close to a
landing-place, for an office, and the business of the station under the
new Chief was commenced. Receiving and returning visits occupied much
time, and in evenings, dinners to meet the Governor, the Military and
Naval Commanders-in-Chief, were the order of the day. The weather was
hot and the weight of epaulettes at these ceremonious dinners told.
[Sidenote: April 5.]
Early on the morning of the 5th, and sooner than was expected,
the _Princess Royal_ hove in sight. It seldom happens that a
Commander-in-Chief is relieved by a senior, and more than the usual
amount of jealousy between those in command and those whose reign was
so suddenly at an end took place. However, I found my old friend George
King the same as ever. Inspected _Salamis_ and examined the comfortable
quarters that had been fitted for the use of self and staff.
[Sidenote: April 6.]
Returned King’s visit; was received on board _Princess Royal_ with
manned yards; finished with an excellent luncheon and inspection of the
many curios collected in Japan and elsewhere. Nephew Augustus Hill on
board in R.M.L.I.
[Sidenote: April 8.]
_Princess Royal_ was off at daylight. Had King been senior, I have no
doubt but that he would have remained longer.
[Sidenote: April 13.]
The _Pearl_ started in advance of us for Sarawak. Ross had permission
to use his own discretion about going up to the town. Paid a visit
to the Tumongong of Johore, who now styles himself “Maharajah.” I
recollect him in his father’s time in different circumstances. He has
been to England, received at Court, and decorated with the Star of
India.
[Sidenote: Singapore, April 14.]
Among the improvements at Singapore is an exceedingly neat and handsome
church. No want of opportunities for writing to England, as the French
packets run alternate weeks with the regular P. and O. Company.
There are few ships without a favourite dog--in _Salamis_ Suttie has
one Carlo, an intelligent mongrel and great favourite. On shore he can
take his own part, although not too big. He is besides a good pointer
as well as retriever.
[Sidenote: April 15.]
I had fixed 15th April for the inspection of the _Satellite_ as well
as that for our departure for Sarawak, Labuan, Manilla, and Hong-Kong.
Before leaving the _Salamis_, I had a visit from M. Troplong, the
French Consul, who was very anxious that we should join his nation in
avenging the defeat they had experienced last year at the hands of the
Coreans.
While I was inspecting the _Satellite_, my friend General Hodgson, with
Colonel Young, went on board the _Salamis_, which then got under weigh,
W. H. Read and Goodlake with us. _Satellite_ hoisted flag and saluted
the General on his leaving. There was consternation on board on its
being discovered that Carlo was nowhere to be found. His description
was written out and a reward offered on shore for his recovery, but it
was unfortunately the season when the policemen are directed to destroy
all stray dogs. Alas, poor Carlo!
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, April 16.]
Observing from the bridge one of these small Nipa Palm islands floating
ahead, and not having gone to quarters when I inspected the _Salamis_,
I thought this would be a good opportunity, so we beat to quarters and
opened fire on the floating island.
In the middle of the rushing about incidental to going to quarters, and
with the first cartridge, who should turn up but the dog Carlo, jumping
with delight on his master and everybody else. Welcome little dog!
the last time the magazine was opened was on Sunday, when the gunner
went down at 8.40 P.M. to get a cartridge for the nine o’clock gun, it
being dark, the dog must have got locked in. How he existed or what his
feelings were in that atmosphere he knows best. If I had not fancied
the Nipa Palm for a target, poor Carlo might have been smothered or
starved to death.
[Sidenote: April 17.]
[Sidenote: Sarawak.]
Early morning found us off Tanjong Datu; before eight we had passed the
Santobong entrance, and soon after rounded Tanjong Sipang and stood
for the Maratobas entrance to the Sarawak River. These bold headlands
and magnificent scenery, although I had visited them frequently since,
brought fresh to my mind some five-and-twenty years ago, when I first
came up in the _Dido_ with James Brooke on board, and gave the first,
and nearly the only, help he ever had in securing his position; thereby
enabling him to carry out his philanthropic views for the benefit of
a strange race. If he has not succeeded to the full extent of his,
then, sanguine hopes, still there is no man living or to come who,
single-handed, will have benefited his fellow-creatures to the extent
Brooke has.
In 1842 piracy, slavery, and head-hunting were the order of the day.
The sail of a peaceful trader was nowhere to be seen, not even a
fisherman’s hut along the length of this beautiful coast. Far into
the interior the Malays and Dyaks warred on one another. Now, how
different! Huts and fishing-stakes are to be seen all along the coast;
the town of Kuching, which on the visit of the _Dido_ had scarcely 800
inhabitants, now has a population of over 20,000. At least 250,000 of
the aborigines who called themselves warriors are now peaceful traders
and cultivators of the soil. The jungle is fast being cleared to make
way for farms; and to prove what industry can do, Miss Burdett-Coutts
has taken a tract of 500 acres of jungle--far from being the most
productive soil that could be found--where everything that is likely
to thrive within the tropics will be introduced into this model farm.
Fruits such as pineapple, bananas, mangosteens, and oranges were doing
well. Rice and sago, mulberry trees to feed silkworms, were all in
progress.
On arriving up the river at the Quop junction, we found the _Pearl_ had
proceeded up, drawing over 19 feet water. Rejoicing in our steaming up
this beautiful river, and just abreast of a shelf of rocks on which
I so nearly lost the _Dido_, I found that my ill-luck in finding the
bottom had not forsaken me. I believe the helm was ported to avoid
running down a canoe that attempted to cross our bows. And we were
bumped hard upon the rocks! With a rising tide we did not remain, but
we knew not until long afterwards what mischief was done.
On approaching the capital, the _Pearl_ saluted my flag, and after
coming to an anchor higher up, she hoisted the flag and saluted that
of Sarawak. A guard of honour received me on landing, where I was met
by my old friend and shipmate, Charles Johnson, now Tuan Muda. He had
changed his name to that of Brooke. A nice boy, spoilt by assuming a
name he was then unfit for! _Pearl_ had not escaped the _Dido_ rocks,
and Captain Ross brought on board _Salamis_ a piece of false keel and
sheets of copper, which divers found displaced! These accidents are sad
bores, occurring too at a time when I wished to establish a reputation
at the Admiralty as a cautious and careful chief.
[Sidenote: April 18.]
_Pearl_ started against the afternoon flood-tide to precede us to
Labuan. We remained a few days to enjoy the hospitality of the Tuan
Muda, who repeatedly expressed the good effect our visit would
have--the influence which would be felt to the farther end of the
Rajah’s dominions.
All the native chiefs came to visit me, the “Rajah Laut” (Sea King)
as they styled me, but most of my original friends who had fought for
the suppression of piracy had passed away. All the occurrences of that
stirring time were fresh in the memory of the children, and old Patingi
Alli’s son was now one of the principal chiefs, a most useful and
worthy man. His gallant old father was killed with many others while
serving with the _Dido’s_ boats.
In the evenings we rode with the Tuan Muda along a two-mile road, cut
through that ever interesting and magnificent jungle.
[Sidenote: April 20.]
About three in the afternoon we took our departure, the Tuan Muda
having supplied us with turkeys and geese that would have done credit
to a Norfolk farm. A sumpitan, a necklace, and three Dyak swords, some
deer horns and alligators’ eggs, were among the curios we brought away.
The Tuan Muda is quiet, reserved, and gentlemanlike, with
a determination not to be surpassed, with a sense of
justice--qualifications fully appreciated by the chiefs.
[Sidenote: Labuan, April 22.]
8 A.M.--Came to in Victoria Harbour, Labuan. Several old friends came
on board--Hugh Low, Acting-Governor; Claude de Crespigny, Harbour
Master, formerly a lieutenant with me; and Dr. Treacher, one of the
Rajah’s earliest followers. Each of them I had known some twenty years
before. All the troops, part of a Sepoy regiment, formed a guard to
receive me on landing, when I became the guest of my friend Low. His
daughter has just come out from home, a nice-looking girl, not quite
seventeen. Her mother was a daughter of “Billy” Napier, and came out
with me in the _Mæander_. I was present at her wedding with Low. The
poor girl died at Labuan when her daughter, who is very like her, was
but two years old. Mrs. Low’s grave is in one of the loveliest spots of
Low’s beautiful garden, hidden from view by a grove of orange trees.
The boy, Brooke Low, is still in England. Low and De Crespigny kindly
added to my collection of shells. Harry Stephenson and self were put up
at Government House. W. H. Read and Goodlake, he being the bearer of a
letter from Yelverton, were received elsewhere.
_Salamis_ proceeded in the afternoon to Coal Point. The island of
Labuan having been ceded by the Sultan of Brunei, was taken possession
of in the name of the Government by Captain Rodney Mundy under Sir
Thomas Cochrane, on account of the coal mines. These mines, owing to
bad management and a jobbing company, have not succeeded as they might
have done, but the island has been useful in other ways. Our occupation
has driven piracy from the N.W. Coast, though it is still rife to the
eastward of Borneo. The slave trade has likewise had a check, and their
treatment on the opposite coast has been ameliorated, as it is known
that slaves have only to escape to British territory to be free. Power
has passed from the Sultan and his chiefs.
We had a Consul at Brunei once, but he has been replaced by a native
agent. The United States are represented by a disagreeable scamp named
Moss, who has hitherto lived by his wits. He persuaded the Sultan to
cede to him a portion of the north-eastern coast, as well as some of
the adjacent islands, to none of which had the Sultan any just claim;
fortunately no valid agreement was drawn up. When Mr. Moss had to make
a first deposit, no money was forthcoming; he enlisted a countryman,
by name Terrie, who was to find the needful and go partners on
condition that the property ceded was to be placed in his name.[4] The
title-deeds were returned to the Sultan to be altered. In the meantime
they fell out. No money was forthcoming, and the Sultan retained the
title-deeds, which Mr. Moss wished to have returned to him.
[4] This portion of the island was ceded to the British North Borneo
Company by Royal Charter in 1881.
As Mr. Moss could now neither borrow nor steal, he decided on the dodge
of setting fire to his own house, and accused the Sultan of having
instigated his people to do it, hoping not only to be revenged for the
detention of the title-deeds, but to receive indemnification. But the
cleverest fellows outwit themselves: the fact of his having removed
his wife and small effects to Labuan a few days previously, and then
the statement that he was fired on twelve times with musketry, which no
one heard, are facts.
On Wednesday, being mounted by Low, we rode through the magnificent
jungle peculiar to Labuan, by the Coal Point Road; eight miles brought
us there. At 10 A.M. went on board _Pearl_, under manned yards, and
inspected a perfect man-of-war. She sailed in the afternoon for
Hong-Kong; we took until night to complete coal and followed in the
morning; steering for the Palawan passage with every prospect of fine
weather.
CHAPTER LXXXVI
THE CHINA COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1867. Hong-Kong, April 30.]
On the 30th April found myself once more entering Hong-Kong by the
Lyemoon passage. Commodore Oliver Jones’s broad pennant was flying
in the _Princess Charlotte_, a huge three-decker, painted yellow and
white, and looking shorter and higher than any Ning Po junk. A small
fleet of gunboats looking very like business. Stopped on board to
receive the usual official visits.
[Illustration: _The Commodore._]
[Sidenote: May 1.]
At noon the shore guns fired a salute, which was cleverly returned
by the gunboats firing in succession. The Governor having sent to
know the time when I landed, at 2 P.M. was received by Colonel Guy
and a guard of 73rd Regiment. His Excellency, Sir Richard MacDonnell,
having sent his carriage, I went, accompanied by the Commodore and
Flag-Lieutenant, at once to get visit of ceremony over. We found His
Excellency and charming wife. Took up my quarters with old friend John
Dent at the palace of Dent and Co.; a room was allotted for Harry
Stephenson, as well as for W. H. Read. The flag was transferred to the
_Princess Charlotte_.
[Sidenote: Hong-Kong.]
The Opera company small, but for a beginning very fair, and included
three French ballet dancers. My conveyance was a chair with four
bearers, good-tempered fellows whom no work could tire. Was made an
honorary member of the Artillery and Engineers, as well as of the 73rd
Mess. The wife of Colonel Guy was the eldest daughter of my old chief
Admiral Plumridge, as was also Mrs. Cumming in the same regiment, by
his second wife.
[Sidenote: May 4.]
Read, Stephenson and self went to Macao, in an American-built steamer
running between Macao and Hong-Kong. Nothing could be cleaner or more
comfortable than these vessels.
[Sidenote: May 5.]
We left Hong-Kong at 10 A.M. and entered the inner harbour three hours
and a half later. We put up at the house of Dent and Co., provisions
and servants having been sent with us. Considerable improvement had
been effected by the last governor in roads, cleanliness of streets,
etc. A lighthouse had also been built, but as these improvements
required money that might otherwise have been remitted to the mother
country, the governor was not allowed to remain. After dinner we
visited the gambling-houses, recently licensed, curious to see, but too
hot to remain in for many minutes.
The rules of the game appeared to me less unfair for the player than
most games of the sort. A small square cloth in the centre of the table
is marked 1, 2, 3, and 4 on the sides. Before placing your stake, a
heap of small pice is placed by the dealer or keeper before him on the
table, which is partially covered by a cup, the pice are then withdrawn
by a pointed stick or long steel needle. As each four are separated
they are swept into the original heap from which the handful had just
been taken. Four at a time are so withdrawn until the last lot, under
five, remain. It is according to the number left whether 1, 2, 3 or 4
win.
For instance, if three remain, and you put your money on, you get three
times your stake. I was next an American gentleman who had had a dream
in which No. 1 was the winning number; in backing his dream he had lost
$1400.
[Sidenote: May 6 to 14.]
On Sunday 5th the English mail arrived at Hong-Kong. Our letters were
sent to us in one of the gunboats, the first letters we had received
since leaving home. All good news with the exception of the death of
Sir Phipps Hornby, removing one admiral from the active list, and
rendering the probability of my completing my three years less.
[Sidenote: Hong-Kong.]
Returned to Hong-Kong in time for Dent’s breakfast. Tuesday, visited
the new docks, which are being excavated at Aberdeen, magnificent
docks, 400 feet long, capable of holding any ironclad likely to be sent
to this station.
One afternoon, partly walking and partly being carried in chairs, we
went over the island by the gap to Dent’s house at Pokofolum, which
must be a delightful residence in the S.W. monsoon: it has both a
vegetable and flower garden. Some Formosa fallow-deer were thriving in
a secured place. Being pressed for time, we returned in our chairs,
Overbeck on foot, and reached the town-house in forty-seven minutes!
Six miles. I had to dine at Government House, a large party. Commodore
Jones entertains lavishly. He gave me an excellent dinner the other
day. His quarters on board the _Princess Charlotte_ are roomy, airy,
and most comfortable. Dined also a large party, with Mr. Whittal,
Jardine and Matheson’s representative. They have a very nice house
prettily situated on a hill. The table, furniture, etc., were as good
as money could procure. Around the rooms were some superb race cups,
such as I fancied were only to be seen on the front of the stand at
Goodwood.
[Sidenote: Whampoa, May 14.]
Harry Stephenson and I started by packet steamer for Whampoa. Fine
boats, American build, leave Hong-Kong and Canton every morning,
meeting somewhere about the Bogue Forts. They now belong to a company,
and fly the English flag. They perform the journey generally within
eight hours, carrying cargo, many Chinese passengers and a few
Europeans, seldom more than ten.
We got out at Whampoa to see the _Pearl_ and _Salamis_ in dock. _Pearl_
but little damaged, a small portion of her fore-foot and false keel.
More serious the _Salamis_: four-and-twenty of her timbers fractured,
and damage to keel; necessary to take out two foremost boilers, both of
which required repair. Advantage of this opportunity was taken to have
accommodation on deck improved. All the work well superintended and
conducted by Mr. Gillies, a most useful servant to the Dock Company.
Went on in the _Banterer_, commanded by my old shipmate Pringle, to
Canton, but even this small vessel could not keep off the bottom while
I was on board--passing the second barrier she bumped heavily, and, as
I found afterwards, rubbed copper off.
[Sidenote: Canton, May 15.]
We anchored off, what I recollect as a densely populated floating
street of flower boats. All that portion of the river has since been
walled and filled in, forming an island on which were the foreign
consulates and residences. The island retains the name of Shaimen. On
landing I was received by the Consul-General, Robertson, and, after
looking over the buildings, we, Stephenson and self, got into chairs,
and proceeded into the city of Canton, the Consul’s residence being
within the Tartar quarter and interior wall, inside this great walled
city, closed for so many centuries against all foreigners.
We traversed nearly three miles of narrow, densely-populated streets
before we reached the Tartar yamun. Robertson had the good taste not to
alter anything beyond the addition of a little European furniture. The
building was old, and I occupied a bed which had most likely been slept
in by some Tartar general when they captured Canton from the Chinese
in the seventeenth century. At the back of the house were a court and
out-buildings, and the remains of a large building which caught fire,
nobody knew how, when occupied by our troops in 1861.
Beyond this again was a park-like enclosure, containing small hills,
trees, and deer. Although not more than 15 acres, the extent was great
when you consider that it was in the heart of a densely-populated
walled city. The weather was bad, and we did not see half of what we
might had we had more time.
Nothing, however is more curious than the city itself, the shops and
the narrow streets along which our chairmen travelled at what appeared
a reckless pace, bellowing to make people get out of the way, but
somehow hurting nobody. We visited some of the prisons containing
culprits under sentence of death; they appeared indifferent as to their
fate, looked and laughed at us. Others at work making or embroidering
clothes--not for themselves. About 1500 are executed annually! At
the entrance gate to the Tartar General’s yamun are large figures of
nondescript animals carved in granite and of great antiquity.
[Sidenote: May 17.]
My friend Robertson bore a strong resemblance to Lord Nelson and Lord
John Russell. Whether he had guests or not he sat daily at the head of
his dinner-table in great form. A row of servants on the right, with
several dogs in front, all looking equally solemn. On the left was a
long sideboard variously ornamented; plates and cups of silver.
After dinner, when everything was quiet, I noticed rats playing about,
picking up crumbs the Consul had thrown out during dinner. I drew his
attention to them and proposed to set the dogs on; to which Robertson
objected, saying they did no harm, and that if frightened they would
throw out such a stench of musk no one could stay in the room. The deer
in his park would scarcely move out of his way.
Took leave of our kind host, who would accompany us to the steamer,
lying ready alongside a wharf built in front of the site of the old
factories, where, some quarter of a century before, when in command of
the _Dido_, I had passed many pleasant days. Not a vestige remains to
indicate the site.
Accompanying the captain round the decks and among the various groups
of Chinamen, some gambling, others opium-smoking, we came to the
women’s department, old and young, with children of various ages--some
at the breast. In the fore part of all I observed three old hags of
repulsive aspect; some had three or four infants slung around them,
varying in age from two months to a year. These, I found, were for
sale, a ready market being found among the less poor Chinawomen of
Hong-Kong; the price asked me for the finest was four dollars, but that
was an exorbitant demand. How the old hags came by the children is all
conjecture.
[Sidenote: Hong-Kong, May 18.]
Returned to Hong-Kong. In the afternoon accompanied the Governor to
visit Stone Cutter’s Island, on which his predecessor had built a
magnificent prison, but which, owing to the energetic measures lately
adopted for ridding the island of bad characters and marking the worst
in the face and publicly scourging those that return, crime has so
much diminished that the prison in Hong-Kong is found sufficient to
accommodate those that require such lodgings.
His Excellency’s visit on this occasion was to ascertain the opinion
of the Commodore and myself as to the feasibility of transferring
the naval establishment to the island. The position would have been
good had it been selected at first, but as £200,000 has been laid out
on the one in Victoria the Board of Admiralty would not be likely
to sanction the extra expense. There is no doubt that the naval and
military establishments in Victoria are considerable obstructions to
the improvement of the city, and prevent the continuation of a sea
or harbour frontage and sea wall, with a road, or praya, which is
intersected for more than 3000 feet at the part occupied by us and the
military.
[Sidenote: May 23.]
_Pearl_ being ready for sea the flag was shifted from the _Princess
Charlotte_ to her.
[Sidenote: May 24.]
Being Her Majesty’s Birthday the ships were dressed with masthead
flags, and at noon a general royal salute was fired, batteries and
ourselves, the reports sounding with great effect under the high land.
Soirée at Government House, everybody attending.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Pearl_, May 27.]
Embarked on board _Pearl_, when I was received with manned yards, to
visit different parts of the station. _Salamis_ still under repair. At
2 P.M. returned the Commodore’s salute and steamed out of Hong-Kong
by the Cap Sing Moon passage, having been a month most kindly and
hospitably entertained by John Dent and his cheery and good partner
Oberbeck.
[Sidenote: Swatow, May 28.]
We arrived early off Swatow, but having to wait for water over the bar
came to outside. It was 9 P.M. before we brought up off the Consul’s
house, on the right bank and opposite side to the town. These Swatow
Chinese are a turbulent and troublesome set, hardly yet accustomed
to the sojourn among them of the hated barbarian. An attempt made by
a Mr. Richardson to establish in a house he had built and furnished
a few miles up the river was opposed by the natives, over whom the
authorities appear to have little or no control. They damaged the
house, carried off the furniture, and ill-treated Mr. Richardson’s
servants. The gunboat _Drake_ had gone up to look after other matters.
The Consul, Mr. Caine, was absent, and the duty done by his Vice, Mr.
Cooper, who hailed from Norfolk, and had a pretty wife and a boy nearly
as fine as my Colin.
We exchanged visits, the Consul getting his salute. Swatow is an
uninteresting place to the visitor, but an extensive trade is carried
on from a large city some distance up, Ch’ao-Chow-fu. In the month of
March last the U.S. barque _Rover_ sailed from Swatow, got into a gale
off Formosa, struck on a rock, made more water than the pumps could
keep under, when the captain and crew took to the boats and saw their
ship founder.
The captain had his wife and first mate with him and a Chinese crew, in
another boat was a mate and also a Chinese crew. The boats separated,
and after a while the captain landed on the southern coast of Formosa,
and while preparing a meal was attacked. They retreated to hide
themselves in the jungle, and all were supposed to have been murdered
with the exception of one Chinaman, who hid himself until dark and then
found his way to a China village some twelve miles off.
He subsequently reached Amoy, where he found no American man-of-war, so
went to the _Cormorant_ and stated the above facts to Commander Broad,
who lost no time in proceeding to the spot; he found the _Rover’s_ boat
where her captain had left her, but on attempting a further examination
he was fired on from the jungle. His boat was shot through and one
man wounded. Unable to see his foe, after sending a few rounds into
the jungle he wisely withdrew. The United States Admiral sent a small
vessel, which could get no satisfaction, and consequently could give
none to the friends of the missing captain and his wife.
[Sidenote: Swatow, May 29.]
During the afternoon of the Wednesday an old American acquaintance
of former years at Whampoa, Mr. Botefuhr, came on board to solicit
interference and assistance from me, which he stated he had in vain
applied for to his own Admiral. Botefuhr’s wife is sister to the wife
of the captain of the _Rover_, and although it is known that many were
killed there is as yet no positive proof that the captain and his wife
were slain. My poor friend clung to the hope that the savages would not
have the heart to murder one so fair as his sister-in-law, who was so
young, and, as he described her, “only a few months married, comely to
look on, and of nice proportions.” It is difficult for me to interfere
without causing jealousy on the part of the United States Admiral. My
friend, Botefuhr, has already drawn comparisons not complimentary to
his countryman.
[Sidenote: May 30.]
Started in charge of a pilot, a European, of whom there are seven, at
10 A.M., having crossed the bar, found the wind fresh from the N.E.,
and shaped our course inside the Namoa Island, during daylight the
pleasantest route; finding the wind freshening we brought up for the
night in Tong Sang, a well-sheltered anchorage.
[Sidenote: May 31.]
Weather fine, at 5 A.M. steamed out; performed the 74 miles to Amoy
with three boilers in seven hours.
CHAPTER LXXXVII
NORTH CHINA PORTS
[Sidenote: 1867. Amoy, May 31.]
At Amoy we found the _Cormorant_, a pretty fast despatch gunboat,
Commander Broad, whose master came with him and piloted us to a berth
in the inner harbour, thereby exciting the jealousy of our own smart
master, who might have made a mistake in the passage between the
town and the island of Kulangsau. Later in the year this place was
celebrated for that prince of fruits, the pumalo. Of course there are
many others, but none to be compared to it.
The trade here, although one of the first ports open to foreigners, is
not equal to Swatow. It is one of the outlets for the enormous province
of Fuh Kien, and an accessible port. There is a rare animal here in the
shape of a really _active_ Chinese Admiral, and piracy within reach of
his station is unusual, although it is supposed that time, place and
opportunity offering, his cruisers are not above levying blackmail.
A good dock, 286 feet long, and capable, owing to a great rise and
fall of tide, of taking in vessels drawing 17 feet, into which the
_Cormorant_ will go on Tuesday next for repairs. Our Consul appears
to be conspicuously and well-housed on the highest part of Kulangsau,
commanding a view both up and down the river. On this island most
Europeans live, keeping their offices in the town of Amoy. Coal to be
had, and always ready, but the coolies lazy, coal being sent in ten or
twelve-ton boats.
[Sidenote: June 1.]
French mail arrived, bringing news up to May 6. A wonderful change is
here! No news of importance. Rumours of warlike preparations. Nations
hesitate nowadays before striking a first blow, but those armed to
the teeth are not so easily kept in check. The only really sad news
from England is the continued suffering of that most amiable of all
Princesses.
Broad gave me a pair of walrus teeth, put on board him by a
suspicious-looking junk, manned and armed for war, but there was no
proof of aggression.
[Sidenote: June 3.]
Inspected _Cormorant_ at 10 A.M. In excellent order. Received with
manned yards. No room for ball practice, but clear for action, and guns
loaded within three minutes. Noon.--Weighed in _Pearl_ and steamed out,
two boilers. An old _St. Jean d’Acre_, Shearman, chief engineer.
[Sidenote: June 4.]
In the morning we were off the Dogs’ Islands, and a pilot shortly on
board. Although we made sail, we were too late to save the high water
over the bar; brought up until the morning. While at anchor observed
numbers of curious-looking snakes floating past; they did not appear
lively, and the pilot pronounced them to have been washed out of the
paddyfields. Had one caught in a bucket. It appeared more dead than
alive, and it was with difficulty that we discovered its mouth and
something like eyes; it was a brownish colour, about a foot long, and
as transparent as a jelly-fish: some of us thought it was a piece of
seaweed, even after handling.
The tail end appeared more lively than the head; at different parts of
the body it had the appearance of having been ripped in two by a piece
of thread tied round the body. Some one on board had read in some book
that if you broke these snakes at their apparent joints, each piece
became a separate snake. The head was considerably thicker than the
other part of the body; it tapered gradually to the tail. While moving
in the water it looked like a lively and dangerous animal, but in a
basin of water it was almost inanimate.
[Sidenote: June 5.]
Soon after 9 A.M. weighed and steamed into the entrance of the river
Min. Carrying the tide with us, we made rapid progress through a
tortuous channel until we came to the contracted entrance of the Kiu
Pai Pass, when nothing can be prettier than the scenery, which again
opens into a wide expanse for three or four miles, and then the channel
enters between high rocky hills, not unlike the best parts of the
scenery on the Rhine.
Three miles of this brought us to Pagoda Island, where we anchored. The
city of Foo-chow is some ten miles higher up, but to be approached only
by small craft. From this port three clipper tea-ships started last
year, performing the most extraordinary sea race on record, the three
ships arriving in London within a few hours of each other. Several
are now loading and two or three are already off--beautiful ships,
reminding one of fine old sailing days of _Dido_, which class of ship
they greatly resemble.
[Sidenote: June 7.]
On June 7, steamed down against the tide, and steered for the
Yang-tse-Kiang.
[Sidenote: June 9.]
Having picked up a pilot off Gützlaff Island, we came to in the evening
off Woosung, doubtful whether, with our draught, 20 feet 2 inches, we
could proceed over the bar.
[Sidenote: June 10.]
Having transported some of the guns forward, we crossed the bar and
steamed up to Shanghai.
[Sidenote: Shanghai.]
Little like the place we took possession of twenty-five years ago. It
is difficult to recognise the Chinese element at all in this great
commercial port; even the pilots are European. The buildings, roads,
carriages, consular flags, merchant steamers, as well as those vessels
propelled by rope and canvas, all tend to hide from sight that Shanghai
still belongs to China. French, American, and Prussian men-of-war are
here. No saluting on account of close quarters.
Landed in afternoon; kindly taken in by George Fitzroy and his wife,
having known him from the time he was of the same age as a sweet little
girl resembling what he was. The comfort and quiet of this place is
what I wanted. Mrs. Fitzroy is a charming person. Although requiring
quiet, had not time to frame an excuse before I found myself engaged to
dine with Mr. Winchester, the Consul, to meet Sir Rutherford Alcock,
who is here making his annual tour of visits to the Consulates at the
Treaty Ports; with him are Mr. Conolly (very tall) and Major Crossman
of the Royal Engineers, employed by Government to inspect and report
on all buildings within its jurisdiction, naval, consulate, colonial,
or military; also my old friend Wade, once of 98th, perhaps the most
efficient scholar and interpreter in China.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Rattler_, June 11.]
A court-martial detained the _Pearl_ and _Rattler_ (in charge of
station). _Argus_ also here, attending on the Minister, with a new
commander just appointed in Hallowes.
_Algerine_, with a smart little lieutenant, Domville, will proceed
south as soon as her commander is clear of the doctor. We have also
_Acorn_, hospital ship, Mr. Roe in charge, an intelligent surgeon.
[Illustration: Map--Eastern Archipelago]
[Sidenote: June 13.]
Although not well enough to enjoy dinner at Consulate on Tuesday, was
pleased at meeting Sir Rutherford Alcock, when we arranged for my visit
to Peking.
We have a coal depot and store-houses here, away from any river
frontage, and as inconveniently situated as a place of the sort could
be. An advantageous sale, as well as purchase of a more suitable site,
might now be made, but the Admiral is not invested with the necessary
power.
The Vice-Consul, Mr. John Markham, has promised me some good shooting,
three days’ journey from this, in the proper season, after September.
Heard of the failure of the house of Dent and Co. Independent of the
ruin of so many poorer people, that of John Dent causes universal
sympathy and regret.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Manila_, June 15.]
Shifted flag from _Rattler_ on board _Manila_. At noon sailed, having
written the Commodore of my intention to go to Nagasaki, which may
reach Hong-Kong in time to save his going to Shanghai. Yesterday the
Fitzroys had a dinner party, including the Minister, the _attaché_,
Conolly, Wade, and Commander Swan. Birds’-nest soup.
[Illustration: _Sir Rutherford Alcock._]
Had conversation with Sir Rutherford as to the next steps towards
the suppression of piracy. We agreed that the disarming, as far as
heavy guns were concerned, of all traders was necessary. He thought
the Chinese Government were sincere in their expressed wish to put it
down. The promised co-operation with other European Powers is necessary
to prevent jealousies. In searching junks for guns the presence of
a responsible Chinese authority necessary. Respectable interpreters
should be found for our cruisers.
After I have consulted with my brother Admirals of France and United
States, Russia, Prussia and Netherlands too, if I can get them,
intend to address Sir Rutherford on the subject, and get them to do
likewise to their respective Ministers. Sir Rutherford agreed with
me that the small Portuguese settlement of Macao was a nuisance--the
haunt of pirates: the centre of that diabolical trade in kidnapped
coolies, worse in its features than the traffic in slaves. Besides, the
Portuguese have no legal right to Macao.
To enjoy a visit to Peking one should go up about the middle of
September, so as to have a walk on the hills where all the Foreign
Ministers reside during the hottest of weather, returning to Pekin the
last week in that month. Mr. Conolly seemed to think that he could
easily obtain some of the crossoptalon, the species of pheasant so
coveted by Lord de Grey.
[Sidenote: Nagasaki, June 18.]
Entered the deep bay which forms the beautiful harbour of Nagasaki.
Feeling still invalidy, took advantage of a lull to land in a boat
brought off from shore by Mr. Alt, and proceeded at once to his
prettily-situated residence high up on the side of a hill. Flag was
shifted to _Pelorus_.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Pelorus_, June 30.]
On 24th the weather held up and we formed a riding party of
six--Haswell, Risk, Lindau, Norton, Alt, and self--and landed where
the ponies had been sent, and rode to the village of Tokito. Nothing
can be prettier than the scenery, while every available flat was
under cultivation, chiefly padi; the fields, with their mud banks,
were small, but the irrigation perfect. Natives simple and civil to a
degree. The village, prettily situated on the bank of what appeared to
be an inland sea, was inhabited by fishermen. Our ponies were entire
and savage, kicking each other whenever opportunity offered; roads not
much near Nagasaki, but particularly good when we got within Prince of
Omera’s territory.
Risk led the way on a pulling pony, much against his will. On our
return, tide being out and boat unable to come up to the spot at which
we disembarked, we rode home through the town, the most curious feature
of the ride being the facility with which the ponies travelled up and
down a steep flight of stone steps.
Had one short afternoon in the china and curio shops. Market in
everything spoilt since the influx of Europeans; prices higher, and
china, particularly that called the egg china, much inferior to what
I had formerly received from here. Mr. Lindau gave me a magnificent
specimen of the teredo or borer--the largest I have seen.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, June 26.]
On the 26th _Salamis_ arrived, having the Commodore on board on leave.
Shifted flag. The pending troubles in Japan appear to have excited
the Saimonirai to renewed animosity against Europeans, and it became
necessary to restrict the leave of the men, and to oblige officers to
carry revolvers. I think my secretary, W. B. Risk, and nephew, Dob
Crosbie, are now alive owing to this precaution; for one afternoon,
returning in company from the native town of Nagasaki, a two-sworded
man, heated by liquor, threw up his sleeve and was proceeding to draw
his sword, when Risk’s revolver made its appearance, and the Saimonirai
swaggered past. A few moments later, a number of Europeans in hot
pursuit of the same man, informed them that he had cut down some people
in the settlement, and the Portuguese Consul had barely escaped with
his life.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_. Inland Sea.]
4 A.M.--Weighed; dirty weather. So left the pretty scenery to keep for
some more auspicious day. Made for Spex Straits, through which passage
nothing can be prettier, but Japan is a new and interesting country,
with--apparently--everything within itself, while the wants of the
natives are few, and all appear happy and contented; a state of things
to which the boasted superiority and civilisation of the European will
speedily put an end.
Beautiful pasture appeared on most of the hills, but beyond a few
bullocks and buffaloes as beasts of burthen, and for agricultural
purposes, cattle are not required by these simple people. They look
strong and healthy, but eat no meat.
On emerging from these narrow and winding Straits, in which there is
depth of water for the largest ships, we made the entrance to the
Inland Sea through the Straits of Shimonoseki; the rain kept off,
and the sea without a ripple, the _Salamis_ made light work. As we
entered the Straits, in addition to the ever-changing scene of hills
and valleys, wood and pasture, coves, inlets, and snug anchorages, the
scent of flowers was wafted off.
[Sidenote: July 1.]
Daylight, got under weigh from off Kokura and steamed through the
Straits; a strong tide against us gave time to enjoy the scenery
and examine the numerous curious-looking trading vessels, arriving,
departing, and at anchor off the town of Shimonoseki. After passing
these we came to the dismantled batteries which Chioshiu, the Prince
of Nagato, considered strong enough to guard the Inland Sea against
all foreigners, but which in 1863 Admiral Kuper, assisted by the
French, proved to the contrary, and by treaty afterwards stipulated
that the fortifications should not be rebuilt, an agreement which has
been strictly adhered to. After passing the Straits and the weather
continuing dirty we ran for the island of Hime Sima, and came to off a
large fishing village.
[Sidenote: Inland Sea, July 2.]
Weighed at 4.30 and steered to the eastward through this beautiful
Inland Sea, altering course occasionally as we threaded our way between
the islands, bringing up in the afternoon on the south side of Cape
Kadzitoi, a snug anchorage, near a fishing village, but the boats had
not come in. Tried our seine on a sandy part of the beach, but without
success. Natives venturing alongside and afterwards on board with much
coquetting,--simple, quiet, good sort of people. Got a pretty bivalve
and a helix that must have been washed from the land by the rains; with
more time some fine shells might be collected.
[Sidenote: July 3.]
4.30.--Weighed and stood to the eastward, passing islands on both sides
with all the appearance of a pretty, moving panorama--water perfectly
smooth. Numerous native boats about, some fishing, while others were
under their grotesque but picturesque sails.
[Sidenote: July 4.]
4.30 A.M.--Weighed. Fine weather. Sun shining, it being just before
the time of high water, met the last of the flood, and passed through
the Naruto (Japanese for gate of the sea), ran alongshore to the S.E.
Coming into the open we met a strong breeze and head sea. By the
morning we had again run into fine weather.
[Sidenote: Yokohama to Yedo, July 5.]
At 4 P.M. we came to in Yokohama, but on receiving a letter from Sir
Harry Parkes, inviting self and three friends to Yedo, weighed again
and ran the distance to Yedo, 15 miles, in an hour and five minutes.
The French admiral, Rose, in the _Guerinere_, had saluted my flag as
soon as they could well make it out. _Perseus_ returned, _Basilisk_
and two gunboats in the anchorage. Commander Stevens ill on shore in
hospital. Several men-of-war of various descriptions, wearing the
Government flag of the Tycoon, or more properly Shogoon, which I trust
we shall have the means of licking into shape. The British Government
well represented in Sir Harry Parkes, who appears to be very properly
and prettily mated, with three children here and two at home, one of
those here a fine and handsome boy, same age as my Colin.
[Illustration: _Harry Parkes._]
[Sidenote: Yedo, July 10.]
Yesterday was fixed for our visit to the Minister for Foreign Affairs,
an office lately decided upon, at the instigation of Sir Harry. We
formed a respectable _cortège_. The Minister with his staff of three,
Commodore, Secretary, Flag-Lieutenant and self. Orders--cocked hats
and side arms. We were all well mounted, escorted by our guard of
eight lancers, two of whom preceded. The rear of all was brought up
by a native guard, mounted on disreputable-looking ponies. Notice had
been given of our intended visit, and the usual curiosity exhibited.
Our route to the castle lay through some three miles of town. We were
properly received. Guards in the entrance kneeling. In the audience
chamber table and chairs to suit such visitors provided. Tea, tobacco,
saki, pipes and sweetmeats.
Conversation commenced, as in all civilised places, about the weather;
then, naval matters, site for the buildings, for the instructing
officer to live in, assurances of good feeling, etc., during which a
couple of hours slipped away, when we returned as we came.
Was struck with the ease and gentleman-like bearing of these Japanese
officials. Their costume dark, and nothing imposing about it, as in
case of the Chinese. Hearing that I was about to return to Yokohama, my
visit was returned this morning by the minister and officials connected
with the Naval Department.
[Sidenote: Yedo, July 11.]
We had another ride yesterday, as we have had each day, through this
wonderful and interesting city. We rode to the bridge, from which
distances to all parts of the kingdom are reckoned, by the outer mole,
through such pretty scenery of water, green banks and trees, that after
having made a tour of some five-and-twenty miles, it was difficult to
believe that we had never been outside the town of Yedo. During the day
the following little event unfortunately occurred:--
The minister is not allowed to move without being followed by a dozen
of these ragamuffin guards, which the Japanese Government maintain are
necessary for his protection, but which are nothing more than mounted
spies--now and then, when we were trotting, one of these fellows would
pretend to get excited and dash past the minister. Each day some of
them had been checked and ordered back to their places in the rear; but
yesterday one of them, whether from over-excitement or impudence is not
known, dashed past me, and was stopped by Sir Harry Parkes, who applied
the crop of a heavy hunting whip across his shoulders and held the same
over the head of the officer or man in charge, threatening to serve him
out also if he did not keep his men in better order. Sir Harry then
made one or two mounted orderlies turn the whole native squad of twelve
into a side road; one that led to the inner route. They scampered off,
a ridiculous and ignominious retreat.
However, before we got home, we saw four following, but at so
respectable a distance that a looker-on could not have discovered that
we were the objects of their observation. The only pity was, that the
minister did not leave the dirty work of inflicting the chastisement
to one of the orderlies or one of his staff, who all looked as if they
would have liked the fun.
[Sidenote: Yokohama, July 22.]
At sea in the _Salamis_, _Serpent_, surveying vessel, Captain Bullock,
in company. Sir Harry Parkes to follow in _Basilisk_. Our object to
meet at Hakodadi, then proceed north and to the West Coast and decide
on the best port for trading purposes. Harbour, with calls to make,
visitors to receive, exercise to take, curio shops, etc., is not the
place to keep up a journal. After six days at Yedo, partaking of the
hospitality of Sir Harry and Lady Parkes, the _Salamis_ arrived and
took us back to Yokohama. I was promptly called on by the French
Admiral Rose, one of the most agreeable of Frenchmen, his chief of
staff, Flag-Lieutenant, and all appeared to be of same stamp.
I visited Monsieur Leon Roches, Minister Plenipotentiary, on whom, I
was informed, I ought to call; likewise a good fellow, and who appeared
to be, as described by his countryman Rose, more of the Zouave Colonel
than the Diplomatist. There is more to see and be amused with in
Yokohama than at most places. The Club is well managed by a ci-devant
marine officer, W. H. Smith, but that which makes the society and place
most agreeable is the presence of the 2nd Battalion of the 9th (Norfolk
Regiment), commanded by Colonel Knox. After having given me a grand
entertainment (proper word, I believe) we were made honorary members of
their mess. Then a party was formed to visit the statue of “Daibootz,”
a Great Bhudda. We were four sailors, with eight from the garrison, the
distance about 15 miles. Ponies were kindly lent to most of us, Mr. W.
Davison, P. and O. Agent, mounting me.
[Sidenote: July 24.]
We got away at 7.30. Most of the journey was performed Indian file, one
of the officers of 9th, well acquainted with the roads, leading the
way; but what made the single file more necessary was the viciousness
of the Japanese ponies, who obstinately refused every attempt on our
part to get them to associate with one another; a stamp, a scream, and
a kick follow in quick succession, if you are for a moment thrown off
your guard by the beauty of the surrounding scenery, which for constant
variety I never saw equalled.
About three hours brought us to the once celebrated (in Japanese
annals) city, now village, of Kama Kura, passing through which, and by
the entrances to grounds surrounding sacred temples, we came to the
end of a straight bit of road where a path turns off abruptly to the
right, leading to the famous bronze statue, but here we dismounted to
examine the spot and have again described to us the cruel murder which
took place in 1864 of two fine young fellows of the 20th Regiment,
Major Baldwin and Lieutenant Bird, who were cut down by some fanatical
Yakonie, while returning from a visit to the Great Bhudda.
The assassins were eventually executed in front of the English camp;
one of them requesting to chaunt a song before being executed, prided
himself on what he had done and would do again if he lived, and
cautioned his countrymen that the foreigner would take the country from
them. Had this fellow died fighting he might have been a patriot; as it
was, he and another committed a most dastardly murder on two unarmed
gentlemen by lying in ambush and striking behind.
CHAPTER LXXXVIII
DAIBOOTZ
[Sidenote: 1867. July 24.]
We dismounted when near the statue, and, leaving our ponies, entered
a shrubbery by a path which, taking a turn to the left, brought us
suddenly, at the distance of about 100 yards, in front of Daibootz
himself. It is a huge and imposing spectacle, built, not cast, of
sundry pieces of bronze, but so beautifully put together that joints
are imperceptible at first from the outside. It is only on going inside
that you see how it was riveted, in much the same way as we should
(forgive the comparison) a huge boiler. The inside, too, has been
desecrated by the usual number of Saxon names.
Several of our military friends, who had previously seen this gigantic
statue, advised our not taking our eyes from the ground until close up
to it, but that is a mistake; you are astonished at the size, but it
is only at a distance you see the beautiful proportions of the whole
figure. The rising ground and green foliage at the back add much to
the effect, and the best view is that which the people who erected it
intended you should have, by the turn given to the path when it first
appears in view.
On our way back we visited the Temple of Hakiman, the largest of the
hundred in the neighbourhood. It is curious and handsome. The site,
too, as in all the temples of both China and Japan, is well chosen
for its picturesque situation, as well as for the view to be obtained
from it. But these temples are the work of men’s hands, and not to be
compared with the beautiful scenery through which we afterwards passed
on our return home, by another route.
About noon we arrived at the village of Kanasawa, situated on the edge
of a circular and nearly land-locked bay of the same name. At one of
the clean and comfortable tea-houses we found ready a most excellent
luncheon, sent early and provided by the messman of the 9th, to which
ample justice was done by twelve hungry men: a siesta afterwards and a
ride home in the cool of the evening.
A few short years have wrought a wonderful revolution in the political
state of the Japanese and their feelings towards foreigners. We appear
to be welcomed everywhere by smiles and good temper, especially by the
lower orders.
The Daimios, who would a few years ago have put their Shogoon to death
for entertaining the idea of permitting foreigners to trade, are now
quarrelling among themselves as to whose port shall be the first opened
to trade. These feudal chiefs are tenacious of their independence, and
no longer live with a portion of their family within the precincts of
the castle and moat at Yedo, but excuse themselves by stating that
troublous times oblige them to keep their retainers with them and ready.
They seem to be ignorant of the fact that nothing will tend more to
sap and explode the whole feudal system than the introduction of the
foreigner with our free notions, although differing materially from
one another in our ideas of freedom, yet all tending to undermine a
system similar to our ancient feudalism.
The United States, with their prohibitive restrictions on commerce and
despotic governments, are the loudest in their call for Free Trade,
and were the first to compel the Japanese to open their ports to the
foreigner. France, that “grand nation,” governed by force of arms,
will allow herself to be second to none in free intercourse with the
Japanese. Holland no longer eats dirt to be allowed to monopolise the
whole trade; and, unable to compete with other nations in free notions
of commerce, is fast retiring from the Japanese waters. Imperial Russia
seems afraid of contamination with any traders. England, I believe,
while she feels the hardship of enforcing our trade on these primitive
and would-be exclusive people, is obliged to go with the stream, and
as yet enjoys two-thirds of the whole commerce. Certain ports are
open, and carrying on a thriving trade, and others are to be opened in
January 1868.
The apple of discord has been thrown among these warlike Daimios, who,
finding that their whole strength united can no longer keep out the
foreigner, are likely to divide and quarrel among themselves. Several
of these princes are far more powerful than the Tycoon himself, but the
Tycoon is nominally the head of the Government, and each quarrel among
the Daimios adds to his strength. The Tycoon is now at Osaka, ready
to put down any single-handed Daimio, some of whom have threatened
hostilities, fancying themselves aggrieved in not having been
sufficiently consulted in the selection of the Treaty Ports: whether
matters are to pass quietly on, time only will determine.
As yet, beyond the visit I paid to the Minister for Foreign Affairs,
I have seen none of their great men. The French, who, through their
Minister, it is said, have got contracts for building docks and
clothing the army for the Tycoon, have invested large sums of money
in the country, so much so, that in case of civil war their interest
will be to support the Tycoon, and they would persuade him that by a
powerful army alone can he hope to govern and put down the turbulent
chiefs. _Our_ advice is to get up a respectable navy and make timely
concessions. With their splendid harbours, mineral wealth, and vast
resources, the Japanese ought to become a great maritime nation; while,
beyond working artillery for their batteries, their soldiers will only
weaken their resources and cut one another’s throats. What different
views different people take!
But to return to where the journal places us at sea after leaving
Yokohama.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, July 22.]
_Serpent_ led the way into Sendai Bay; she having communicated with
some native fishermen found no safe entrance into the inner bay of
Matsu Sima; so, to obtain protection from an easterly gale, we stood
out again and found our way to the northward of an island, for which,
as yet, we have no name, and stood on until we gradually shoaled our
water to four fathoms, beyond which we did not venture, and came to for
the night, perfectly secure against any wind.
[Sidenote: July 23.]
Weighed at 8.30 and followed the _Serpent_ round Sendai Bay, when I
signalled her to pass through an inviting-looking passage formed by
the mainland and Kingkasan or Gold Island. I was so struck with the
beauty of country, the cultivation and apparent civilisation, that we
determined on landing, and came to for the night. On the left the hills
had been cleared and a number of brood mares, with their foals, were
seen in different directions. On the right was a beautifully wooded
island, with herds of deer feeding in the cleared spaces. Guns were
immediately got ready and parties told off for a glorious afternoon’s
sport, and orders sent for the interpreter to get permission from
certain houses we saw peeping through the trees.
Our messenger was forestalled by the going on board the _Serpent_ of a
priest who informed them that the island was sacred and dedicated to
the Bhuddist God; that the deer were all tame and never killed, and
that not so much as a stone was ever permitted to be removed; in fact,
that any one attempting to commit such a sacrilege would surely die.
He said there was gold among the sand on the east side, but that was
guarded by a great serpent. A party went on shore at the invitation of
the priests, and while they were inspecting the interior of the temple
a fine stag walked in and ate several sheets of white paper from the
hands of the strangers. None of the deer are ever killed, nor is one
allowed to pick up the antlers they shed, which were seen lying about.
The Commodore and self landed on the opposite shore to inspect the more
wild-looking horses. These we found as tame as the deer. They were but
ponies, but some well-shaped mares among them. In climbing the hills I
put up a hen pheasant, and I daresay there were others. The covert was
good, but we had neither guns nor dogs.
On returning on board I found the priests, who had ascertained
who I was, waiting to receive me. They appeared poor, civil and
good-tempered, bringing an offering of small fans, descriptions on
paper of their temple and island, also some nasty drink called saki.
They seemed to enjoy some champagne! Should there ever be hostilities
between us I shall know where to find some good fat venison. We weighed
again before midnight and followed the _Serpent_ to the northward.
[Sidenote: Nanbu Harbour, July 24.]
10.30.--Made the entrance to Nanbu Harbour, when _Serpent_ led us
into as beautiful a haven as can well be imagined. Land high, bold,
and wooded on both sides. Entrance about half a mile wide. Water, as
signalled from _Serpent_, gradually decreasing from 50 fathoms, but too
deep for anchoring for full 3 miles, and it was not until we had made a
turn to the westward, and were completely land-locked that we got any
soundings with the hand leads. Scenery such as Rio Harbour would be if
the blue mountains were brought closer.
We brought up in a snug anchorage in 5 fathoms, close off a
considerable fishing village called Yamaba. Natives appeared nervous
and cautious at first, but gained confidence when they found the
Japanese officers on board the _Serpent_. A seining party landed on a
low sandy island and caught some small but sweet fish; some of them
had the peculiarity of not spawning like most fish, but of producing a
number of little plump fish like themselves, about 2 inches long, that
swam and cut about as if they had never been confined!
On returning on board I found that the head of the village had sent
his small present on board of stinking salt fish. The gunning party
had shot ducks and seen pheasants, but it was the wrong season: the
natives, of their own accord, never disturbing the game between the
months of March and September. Had we given permission, our decks would
have been crowded with the villagers from morning till night, but we
allowed them on board only occasionally for an hour.
[Sidenote: Nanbu Harbour, Japan, July 25.]
Before I was up a present of saki in a neatly japanned little tub,
two parcels of the dried sea-slug or _bêche de mer_, done up in paper
bags on a japanned tray, were brought off by the principal traders of
the place. Mr. Aston came from the _Serpent_ to interpret; they smoked
their pipes. I gave them a couple of small bottles of eau-de-Cologne,
and wrote my name on their fans; they went away delighted.
Suttie, who had been on shore early, shot a fine swan, and Pusey had
killed an animal the doctor pronounced to be a fennec; it was very
savage, and showed fight with the famous dog Carlo, after having been
badly wounded; it had a small foxy head, a short brush, and hair long,
like some Scotch terriers. He was not sweet!
Leaving the _Serpent_ to sound round this splendid harbour,
particularly one of refuge should a vessel be caught in those gales so
prevalent on this coast in winter months, at 10 A.M. we cleared from
the numerous native boats and steamed out of the harbour. Weather and
climate much the same as in our own dear isle at this time of year.
[Sidenote: Hakodadi, July 26.]
In the Straits of Sangar we met a strong westerly breeze, and that,
with a lee set, obliged us to get steam up in the other two boilers. We
came to in Hakodadi Harbour. Found a whole fleet of Japanese junks with
but few European vessels. There is not much to attract in the town,
shops containing nothing but what was imported. A fishing-party was
immediately formed to start on the morrow for the Lake Cuoma, situated
beyond the hills that rise from the plain. On the north side of the
harbour, at a distance of about 20 miles, a river entering the sea on
the east side was said to be full of salmon and trout.
The European residents were particularly kind in providing us with
ponies, while Mr. Deas most good-naturedly offered to accompany us.
Half a dozen pack ponies were provided to carry on our commissariat and
a change of clothes; these were to have started some hours in advance,
but the usual mistakes were made of not equally dividing the packages,
and after landing, beer cases had to be opened and repacked, smaller
loads being more conveniently balanced on the packs.
It was a little after noon that our party of seven, in addition to
servants, got fairly under weigh. We enjoyed our ride along the shores
of the harbour, and then on the plain, which almost imperceptibly
begins to rise towards the mountains, over which our route lay.
The Commodore and self were properly mounted on the steadiest of the
ponies, although mine, “Punch,” would allow none to pass him. Risk,
with his usual luck, was on a runaway; Atkinson, who had but once
before been in a saddle, was on an amorous pony that endeavoured to
get at every herd of brood mares, of which there were many feeding on
the plain, and at last got into difficulties by meeting two mares and
a foal just as they were crossing the road from their straw-yard. A
scream and a fight; one horse was kicked clean over, while the other
two pawed and bit each other savagely.
The youngster got out of the fray unhurt; then there was a chevy over
the plain to separate the combatants and catch the runaway! As we
approached the high land we got enveloped in mist and rain, and were
obliged to abandon a short cut Mr. Deas was going to take us and return
to the beaten track. The road was tortuous and slippery; numerous
rivulets crossed by rickety planks, but these extraordinary ponies
scampered along considerably faster than I liked or could help, without
a fall, although with frequent slips of a yard or two.
[Illustration:
_From a Sketch by Commodore Jones, 1867._
_Crossing a River in Japan._]
On arriving at the top of a steep ridge, which showed like a gap in
the mountain, the mist held up and gave us a view of the plain we had
traversed, with Hakodadi and the sea in the background, which has not
been inaptly compared to Gibraltar, as seen from Spain. On the other
side we have a view of the lake, with a volcanic mountain in the
distance smoking.
We had started too late to reach the fishing stream, so pushed on to a
tea-house on the north side of the lake: clean and comfortable; here
we did ample justice to our picnic dinner and enjoyed ourselves, as I
fancy only sailors can; at least we do not get enough of this sort of
life to make us indifferent to its (to me) many charms!
[Sidenote: July 27.]
The next morning we started for another of these comfortable and
convenient tea-houses, situated on the shore of Volcano Bay, near the
mouth of the Salmon River, the sportsmen intending to dismount some 4
miles above and fish their way down. Luckily, the party who led did not
know the intended spot, and continued on until they reached the house
at which we intended to rest. This brought the whole party on, when it
was ascertained that we were two months too early for salmon, and there
was not a trout left above 3 inches long. In the evening our party was
increased by Lieut. Rose and Mr. Read of the _Serpent_.
The scarcity of fish in no way interfered with our enjoyment. We were
all early in the saddle. Started on our return by 9 A.M., a lovely and
refreshing morning with a 30-mile ride before us, but as we got on to
the plain on the other side the wind got up and the rain came down as
it can in this country. But the comforts of home on board with a warm
bath made the rain only another variety in our fun.
[Sidenote: July 29.]
We found a French man-of-war, _La Place_, from Yokohama, probably
sent to see what we were after. She landed two ugly priests, anxious
to commence their work of mischief. The Russian gunboat _Garnastai_,
commanded by a fine fellow, Count Lütkee, his mother English, also from
Yokohama, on his way north. I had to receive visits from the Governor
and Lieutenant-Governor--two gentleman-like, agreeable fellows.
Landed with Commodore to visit Mr. Alfred Howard and look at his
curios. A nice collection of bronzes as well as pictures and small
ivories. A small collection of shells!
[Sidenote: July 30.]
After having received and paid above visits and invited Mr. Mitford of
the Legation to come with us, at 5 P.M. weighed, with the intention of
inspecting the coal-mines, said to be of good quality, at Twanai, and
then rejoining the Minister at Nigata: the necessity of economising
fuel not permitting _Serpent_ and _Basilisk_ accompanying us.
[Sidenote: Twanai, July 31.]
As we stood into the bay, at the bottom of which Captain Bullock had
marked as about the spot we should find Twanai, we were puzzled at the
number of villages, but after stopping and firing a gun he observed a
boat coming out from the village we least expected, and Mitford soon
recognised his friend Mr. Gower, the gentleman who had undertaken the
contract from the Tycoon Government to work the coal-mine so many
years. We found no shelter near the village.
[Sidenote: Yesso Island.]
Opposite the valley up which the principal mine is situated, the coast
is rocky, but the season being fine we came to in 10 fathoms off the
village of Tomari, where Mr. Gower resided for the present. The town
and harbour of Twanai, to which the coal, when worked, must be sent for
re-shipment, is seven miles further to the eastward: a bar harbour,
but with a snug anchorage, protected by a sand-bank; with six or seven
fathoms inside.
CHAPTER LXXXIX
THE CHINA COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1867. Flag in _Salamis_, July 31.]
We had heard much of the bears in this island of Yesso, and Mr. Gower
was pressed for information. There were plenty of them, and two had
been down for several nights running to rob a hut on the beach, only
half a mile distant from the village, of salt fish.
Lieutenant Pusey, a keen sportsman, having obtained a guide, undertook
to lie in wait for these bears; he found their traces, the marks where
they had removed the thatch to get at the fish, and patiently remained
until daylight, but Bruin did not put in an appearance. Pusey was,
however, sanguine enough to try again the following night, with same
success: the whole country round was either covered by forest or was
one mass of rank vegetation over six feet high, from which it would
have been impossible to have dislodged any game.
During the two days we allowed ourselves, weather permitting, to
remain, one was to be devoted to a ride to Juranai, where we were to
see the aborigines, the other to visit the coal-mines.
[Sidenote: Aug. 1.]
We landed, a party of six, and proceeded to Gower’s house, where he and
his friends, the Japanese officers, had provided ponies. Another party
had gone to haul the seine off the mouth of a river two miles to the
eastward, up which we had heard of trout and salmon. Our ride, although
hot, was an agreeable one, enlivened by the addition to our party of
Mitford. On arrival we found the Japanese Governor, a man of no great
rank, had kindly provided a feast at his residence. The Japanese are
proverbial for their cleanliness, and floors covered with mats. We
found this second to none in that respect, and we voluntarily, before
entering, kicked off our dirty boots. With the exception of sweetmeats
and cakes, a Japanese feast is a nauseous thing: sea-slugs, stale fish,
uncooked ditto, and scuttle-fish do not suit the English palate.
We walked afterwards to that part of the village where the Jonos dwell.
They are an extraordinary-looking race; short and square built, but the
great peculiarity is their shock head of hair, which extends to their
face and body. Their houses were cleaner than other savages, but that
is probably owing to the force of example set them by the Japanese.
They live chiefly by hunting the bear, which they are allowed to do
under certain restrictions. One is that the skins are sold to the
Government. Each village has a pet bear which is made much of, but off
which they eventually have a grand feast and consume much saki.
The only curio obtained was one presented to me by the chief--a slip
of wood, the size of a large paper-cutter, but carved on it were the
figures of a Jono and a bear, while between them was a plate of fish
and a bowl of saki. The use of this instrument was to lift the hair
of the upper lip so as to clear the way for the bowl of saki, which
it was essential should be drank at the feast of the bear. During the
operation of the cutting up and cooking of the pet for the feast, the
old women are allowed to howl and cry.
[Sidenote: Friday, Aug. 1.]
I joined the party to see the coal-mine. Suttie and the Commodore
preferred trying their hand at the salmon, which were just arriving on
the coast.
An agreeable and pretty ride of two miles along a valley down which
a small rivulet runs, and up which the tram or railway is being
constructed, brought us to the coal-mine, into which--more to please
Mr. Gower than myself, as nothing can be more uninteresting--I crept,
half-doubled, through mud and water. After expressing my satisfaction,
and taking a long and patient look at the adjacent hills covered with
timber and brushwood, and rendered still more interesting to Mr. Gower
by the vast seams of coal underneath, the line of which he seemed to
know as exactly as if the mountain was of crystal, we wended our way
back on foot, collecting several specimens of the land helix.
When we got back, a swell from westward had set the _Salamis_ rolling,
and made us anxious about the party who had crossed the bar to fish
the river. About 7 P.M. they were seen coming off, but not without
having been swamped, with the loss of rods and other gear. A heavy
roller filled the boat. They wisely sat still until the two following
waves had broken over them, and then jumped out and hauled their boat.
They were assisted by the kind natives, who refused any remuneration
for their trouble. We took leave of our kind and obliging friend, Mr.
Gower, who, after having come on board to see me off, hurried on shore
again to send assistance over the hills to the missing fishing party.
We got under way at 7 P.M., and proceeded to the southward under easy
steam.
[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]
Just before sunset we made out the smoke of two steamers, which proved
to be the _Basilisk_ and _Serpent_, preparing to take their departure
from Nigata; but making us out, did not weigh. Captain Bullock having
left with us directions where our boats might safely cross the bar,
they left soon after daylight.
[Sidenote: Nigata, Japan, Aug. 5.]
Nigata is a large town, situated on the left bank, about three miles
from the mouth. It belongs to the Tycoon, and but for the insuperable
objection to a bar, and the exposure to all winds from N. to S.W. in
the anchorage outside, it would most likely have been one of the new
Treaty Ports. As it is, it carries on a large trade with junks.
The Governor had sent off officers with the usual compliments, whom we
met as we proceeded on shore. I had left the ship as early as 8.30,
fearing the Governor might have come off to wait upon me himself, but I
believe he had no intention of doing anything of the sort. The officers
we met turned about and accompanied us, not only to the shore, but
never left us until we were again afloat; they were spies, but under
the happy delusion that we imagined them to be a guard of honour!
However, they did not molest or interfere.
Our object was to see the town and shops, and they took us to them.
The town is clean, intersected by canals, and the population, although
naturally anxious to see the strangers, did not molest us in any way.
On our way back we were requested to visit a rather imposing temple,
but thinking it was an attempt to get me to call on the Governor,
whose duty it was to wait on me, I passed on. But afterwards, on their
explaining that if I would walk in and partake of refreshment, the
Governor would call on me there, I went back.
Tables and seats had been prepared for us, and after we had had some
tea and fruit, and had waited about a quarter of an hour, the mob at
the entrance gate was dispersed, and running footmen came in advance,
announcing the Governor’s approach. He arrived, mounted on a remarkably
nice strong pony, but dismounted at the end of the road and approached
on foot. We, directed by Mitford, rose to receive him. The usual
commonplace conversation took place as to weather. How old we were, and
how well we all looked; all of which was taken down in writing, before
we took our departure. I was rather struck with the appearance of the
Governor, apparently superior in intellect to the generality of his
countrymen. Good-looking, and said he was fifty.
We got under way at 3 P.M., intending, according to agreement with Sir
Harry Parkes, to go to Ongi, a small fishing village near the south end
of the Island of Sado, about thirty miles; but on nearing the land, we
made out our two consorts at anchor off a village, which proved to be
Oda. We came to with them and remained for the night.
[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]
Weighed together at 5 A.M., Sir Harry having made arrangements to meet
the Governor at Ongi, a small bay on the south-west side, and then to
visit the gold and silver mines, some five miles distant, on foot. I
preferred stopping at Ongi, having heard of hares and pheasants in
abundance.
We came to in a snug little port, which required some caution in
approaching, but was protected by rocks sufficiently numerous and high
to break the force of a heavy sea. The favourable reports of game
produced many sportsmen, but the weather being sultry, vegetation high,
and no dogs, I waited the result. The return was 1 hare, 1 pigeon, 2
ducks, and 8 pheasants; total, 12. We weighed as soon as they came on
board, and stood out under easy steam.
[Sidenote: Manao, Aug. 7.]
8 A.M.--Came to in four fathoms off Manao. Found a steamer with the
Daimio Kaga’s flag flying. Hitherto we had visited only such ports as
belonged to the Tycoon. We were now in that of one of these feudal
princes. Whether this will be the treaty port to be opened on the west
coast, some one besides the Tycoon will have to be consulted.
About midday _Basilisk_ and _Serpent_ arrived. The authorities on
shore had sent off to the capital notice of the intended visit of our
Minister. Prince Kaga had not hitherto shown any friendly disposition
towards foreigners. There is no doubt but that this, his Port of Manao,
is the best situated and the finest harbour on the west coast. The
other port of Oösima, and next best harbour, about 100 miles to the
southward, is likewise a Daimio’s port, but too near to Osaka. Nigata
would do well if no vessels larger than junks wanted to enter the
river: no safe anchorage outside. The Tycoon has faithfully promised to
open whatever port on the west coast we may decide on.
[Sidenote: Aug. 9.]
It was on the morning of the third day, Friday 9th, that a dozen of
the Daimio’s officers arrived, and immediately waited on Sir Harry
Parkes on board the _Basilisk_. The interview was long, but not
satisfactory. They were satisfied with what trade they had, and did not
wish theirs to be made a treaty port. They were very civil and polite.
Their Daimio was ill, and on that account could receive no one: no
encouragement. But I have a great idea that our Minister will carry
his point, although I do not see my way. Nothing would unite these
Damios so soon as an attempt on the part of the Tycoon to coerce one
of them; besides, the Tycoon has had a lesson. Seaton and Mitford were
sent overland to Osaka to wait there our arrival: a perilous journey I
should think. At 5 P.M. we got under way for Nagasti, to be followed by
_Basilisk_. _Serpent_ left to survey the harbour.
[Sidenote: Nagasaki, Aug. 12.]
On arrival in Nagasaki Harbour, heard of the cruel murder of two seaman
of the _Icarus_, Lord Charles Scott. The poor fellows had fallen asleep
outside a tea-house, when some passing Yakomins slashed their bodies
with their two-handed swords, almost cutting them in two. My first step
was to communicate the facts to the Hon. Minister in Japan, in the hope
that the crime might be traced to its source. Suspicion fell on some of
Prince Tosa’s retainers.
[Illustration: _Charlie Scott._]
Whilst here we visited a Daimio, the Prince of Awa. We were received
in a magnificent feudal castle, with drawbridges, moats, etc. I was
accompanied by two or three members of the Legation, Suttie, Secretary
and Flag-Lieutenant. On first arrival our presents were sent in, and
then we were presented to the Prince. A dinner followed; the Prince
took the head of the table; his guests were arranged according to rank.
Half-way down, the table was depressed some feet below the level of
the upper table, and here his subordinate officers were entertained,
illustrating the “below the salt” of our feudal times. The officer
plied us with warm saki, but its effects showed sooner on our tempters
than on ourselves.
Dinner was followed by a speech from the Daimio, who welcomed us to his
territory, and, pointing to a recess full of Japanese curios, expressed
a hope we would take with us some specimens of the manufactures of the
country, as indeed we did, none leaving without a present.
Then followed Japanese theatricals, which of course we could not
follow. On retiring to rest we found that a four-poster bed had been
rigged up for each of us. A huge tub of cold water was provided, and a
pint bottle of champagne was on each dressing-table, the Prince having
evidently been informed that such conditions were essential to the
everyday life of an Englishman.
[Sidenote: Sept. 1.]
Weighed and stood to the south-east.
[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]
Came to off entrance to the Peiho.
[Sidenote: Sept. 26.]
Stood into river, passed Taku Forts, and after the usual grounding at
the bends and fouling of junks came to for the night.
[Sidenote: Peking, Sept. 27.]
Moored off the British Consulate Tientsin. Received with the greatest
kindness by Sir Rutherford and Lady Alcock; under their auspices saw
much of Peking, which to the ordinary barbarian is not allowed.
Our visit was specially marked by a most enjoyable riding excursion
to the Great Wall of China. The party consisted of our Minister, Lady
Alcock and her charming daughter, Miss Lowder, Conolly, one of the
Secretaries of our Legation, Risk, Suttie, and Harry Stephenson. Riding
in easy stages, the native servants were always one stage ahead, so
that on arrival, after a refreshing bath, we found a table arranged
with every possible luxury. Striking almost due north we stopped for
the night at Cha-ho. Thence to the Ming Tombs, approached through an
avenue of animals of colossal proportions, carved in stone--elephants,
camels, and horses; and that they were not without artistic merit is
proved by the fact that some of our horses whinnied and approached
these stone representations in evident recognition.
[Sidenote: Oct.]
We slept that night at Nankow. Next morning rode to Kou-li-yeng, our
halting-place for the night. Next day to Miyü-hsien, where we had an
admirable dinner.
Ku-pee-Kou, by the Great Wall of China, was the turning-point for
home, visiting on the road Chao-tu-Chiang, Loo-shan, Niulang-shein,
Saw-Chia-tieu and Semho, our last halting-place before re-entering the
hospitable legation at Peking. We varied the amusement by an occasional
raid on the wild geese and partridges met with on the road.
I was much impressed by the evidence of former splendour and
prosperity--temples carved in marble; baths fed by natural hot springs;
all in decay and covered with dust inches thick, the collection of
centuries--so much so, that names inscribed on the dust, with dates
many years previously, were as sharply defined as if written yesterday.
[Sidenote: Oct. 25.]
This delightful visit over we returned to Nagasaki, calling _en route_
at Cheefoo. A short stay in Japan, and we went south again, anchoring
in Hong Kong on November 10, when I shifted the flag to _Princess
Charlotte_. Then to Shanghai, where old memories and old friends
clustered round me: the scene of many a stirring day in the _Dido_.
Again to Japan, and further cruises on that beautiful and interesting
coast.
CHAPTER XC
THE OUTLOOK FOR THE NEW YEAR
[Sidenote: 1868. Hiogo, Jan. 1.]
Commencement of another year. My flag at the fore, flying on board
_Rodney_ in Corvé Bay, near Hiogo. _Rodney_ nearly twelve months in
commission, while I have been nine within the limits of the station,
having assumed the Command-in-Chief at Singapore in March 1867.
Thanks to the speed of the _Salamis_ I have been enabled to visit all
the important points of the China and Japan part of this extensive
station, besides paying an agreeable month’s visit to Peking and its
neighbourhood. And I hope before leaving this part of the world to
have a second peep at Nankin: four and twenty years since I was there
in _Dido_. The event for which we have been preparing since my arrival
has been the opening of Osaka, Hiogo, and other ports for commercial
purposes.
The necessity or advantage of opening these ports seems doubtful,
but they were mentioned in the former treaty, and all the foreign
ministers, however they may disagree on other points, seem united
in the necessity of teaching the Japanese that treaties must be
respected, and not lightly set aside. Owing to the political state
of affairs in Japan, the weakness of the Tycoon power, and strength
of the Independent Feudal Chiefs, as well as the uncertainty of the
strength of two parties styled among themselves the “Admission” and
“Expulsion” parties, it was deemed advisable to appear before Osaka
and Hiogo with an imposing force. Our Minister, Sir Harry Parkes, had
come from Yokohama in the _Adventure_ troopship, Captain Hickley,
with a guard of fifty of the 9th Regiment, besides his twelve mounted
policemen in Lancer costume, and a large staff with the Legation of
Consuls and interpreters in addition to the Attaché. The Americans made
a good display of pennants, but France, afloat, was represented by
one man-of-war, while their Minister, M. Roches, tried to emulate our
Minister by a guard of marines at Osaka.
The Tycoon was at Miako endeavouring to carry on the government,
opposed by Prince Satsumali Li Tosa and other powerful Daimios who had
collected a sufficient number of retainers to threaten the power of the
Tycoon. What their object is has not been ascertained. Most parties
appear to agree as to the necessity of doing away with one of the two
heads. The Tycoon invites a council of Daimios and expresses himself
willing to be guided by their decision. The majority of Daimios decline
attending this council and shut themselves up in their castles. The
1st of January arrives, and the ports of Osaka and Hiogo are open to
foreign trade. Salutes are fired from the ships-of-war off both ports,
and no demonstration or disturbance takes place.
[Sidenote: Jan. 6.]
On the 6th _Basilisk_ sails with mails for Hong Kong; _Salamis_ for
Chusan, to wait me there.
[Sidenote: Jan. 7.]
On 7th I go over in _Sylvia_ to visit and consult with Minister at
Osaka. Land at foreign settlement, where we find horses to ride (4
miles) to the Legation. On coming on to the open space that surrounds
the castle, met a number of troops arriving in various and curious
costumes. These proved to be the Tycoon’s guard and retainers, he
having retreated from his castle at Miako; the subsequent explanation
of which was that Satsuma had surrounded the Mikado’s Palace with
his troops, and thereby was in possession of the Mikado’s person:
representing the seat of government. The Tycoon stated he had removed
his troops at the order of the Mikado. Mikado is a child, but Satsuma
had placed his own people as the advisers of the crown, and the Tycoon,
too patriotic to shed blood and plunge his country into civil war,
retired to his castle at Osaka.
I expect that the Tycoon is not deficient in courage; among the
Japanese I have not seen a man more princely and determined, a
good-looking man, apparently about thirty years of age. He, I think,
is aware of much discontent among Prince Satsuma’s followers; their
swaggering and overbearing manner causes them to be hated by the
inhabitants; they are some 300 miles from home, and when food gets
scarce will have to disperse. The Tycoon will “bide his time,” and
eventually be recalled when they cannot do without him. The foreign
ministers waited on the Tycoon, and received in reply an explanation
worthy of a more civilised nation!
[Sidenote: Jan. 9.]
On Thursday 9th we were to return to Hiogo by the _Sylvia_, having
had the _Rodney’s_ steam launch sent to the settlement to take us
over the bar. Owing to a continued fall of rain and difficulty in
getting coolies, it was late in the afternoon before we got away from
the Legation. We, a large party, consisting of Captains Stanhope and
Brooker, Mitford, Attaché, Captain Gibbs, Harry Stephenson, Adolphus
Crosbie, Bradshaw of 9th Regiment, my servant Fuller and others,
descended the river in native boats from a creek at the back of the
Legation.
On arriving at the settlement we found a fresh breeze from southward
and a ripple on the water, although 2 miles from the mouth, sufficient
to show that the bar would not be quite smooth. In addition to
_Rodney’s_ launch we had the steam cutter of the _Sylvia_, which we
took in tow. By the time we reached the mouth of the river it was too
dark to judge of the state of the bar, although we could plainly see
the white tops of the waves against the darkness beyond. We could also
discern the ships-of-war at anchor outside.
[Sidenote: Corvé Bay.]
Having a strong ebb tide, stronger perhaps from the late heavy rains,
we pushed on, and in a few minutes found ourselves plunging into a head
sea, the rollers breaking heavily. We saw at once that retreat was too
late, our only chance being to have steerage way enough to keep the
boat’s head to the sea, which at every plunge broke angrily into her,
threatening to extinguish the fires. Our only propelling power lay in
steam, as, with the engine in the boat, no room is left for the oars to
work, only a portion of the crew being sent on such occasions.
Besides, we all knew that in case of the boat filling, the weight of
the engine was sufficient to take her down like a stone. We were not
long in casting off the _Sylvia’s_ cutter to take care of herself.
We hoped to find less sea when once across the bar. In that we were
mistaken. In spite of pumps and baling the water was gaining on us,
and as the boat got heavier it appeared as if each plunge must be
the last. We had, too, the mortification to see that the current had
carried us past the _Sylvia_, and we dared not turn the boat’s head
in that direction without certain destruction from the seas that would
inevitably have broken over her broadside.
The next few were anxious minutes, until we came under the lee of _La
Place_, French frigate, which providentially lay just on our line
ahead. We were drenched, bitter cold, and those who were not sea-sick
very hungry. Nothing could equal the kindness and attentions of Captain
Emot and the officers of _La Place_. To get on board the frigate was
out of the question, although she rigged out her spanker-boom with a
Jacob’s ladder suspended from the end.
[Sidenote: Hiogo.]
However, by means of waterproof cases they supplied us with all we
required, even a tin of sardines, which the natives helped to get rid
of, and mulled wine. Between 10 and 11 P.M. a lull took place, and we
succeeded in getting to the _Sylvia_, and in the morning weighed for
Hiogo, having first ascertained that the cutter was safe inside the
river.
We afterwards heard that within a minute of being cast off she filled
with a second sea, but being fitted with air-tight compartments as
a life-boat, she was sufficiently buoyant to bear the weight of the
engine. By holding up the portion of an awning in the fore part of the
boat they succeeded in getting her head round, and drifted in again
before the wind.
The following morning Admiral Bell, the American Commander-in-Chief,
attempted to cross the bar in his twelve-oared barge, which capsized,
when himself, Flag-Lieutenant Read, and ten seamen were drowned. We
sailed in _Rodney_ on the 11th; arrived at Yokohama on 13th.
[Sidenote: Yokohama, Jan. 19.]
On 19th went in _Firm_ to visit the Naval Yard establishment for
instruction of Japanese under the able management of Commander Tracey,
assisted by Lieutenant A. K. Wilson and a competent staff, of an
engineer, warrant-officer, and seamen gunners. The pupils consisted
of between seventy and eighty Japanese lads, all the sons of officers
and respectable people, each lad wearing that distinguishing mark of
rank, two swords. The College was a long, well-arranged building,
with cabin, and bunks like those on board passenger ships: each
cabin containing two students. Baths, cook-houses, etc., arranged
after their own fashion, but the indoor instruction was carried on
at tables with seats. They had their rigging and engineer lofts, a
section of a frigate’s maindeck with portholes and guns. This was
rendered necessary, as, although the establishment bordered on the sea,
the water was too shoal to admit of any man-of-war approaching near
enough to be available for such purposes. They had, however, a small
brigantine moored close by, and boats to teach them the practical part
of a seaman’s work.
No nation ever went through such changes, and so great a revolution,
although still incomplete, in so short a time and with so little
bloodshed. But internal dissensions must ensue, and the Saturday
night of our arrival and the greater part of Sunday fires were
blazing in five or six different parts of the city. This proved to
be all property belonging to Prince Satsuma, who was domineering it
with so high a hand over the Tycoon at Miako. A steamer of his that
attempted to go to sea was chased and attacked by three of the Tycoon’s
vessels-of-war. Although there did not appear to be much damage done,
it is the beginning of a Civil War which must decide which is to be the
strongest and ruling power. Much has to be done, and that strongest of
all earthly powers, the majority of the people, has not as yet been
thought of as having anything to do with their differences. It will be
curious to watch the progress of events.
The most influential and dangerous party now are the ignorant, idle,
lazy, two-sworded followers and retainers of the Daimios and Feudal
chiefs--scoundrels who are alike a curse to their masters as well
as the people. The fires at Yedo were extensive, and so near to the
British Legation that two young students, a Mr. Easlim, and their
guests, two American gentlemen by name of Hunt, thought it advisable to
clear out. Having deposited their goods on board the _Firm_, they came
to the Naval Yard establishment for board and lodging.
We were disturbed just as we were preparing for dinner by the body of
one of the American gentlemen being borne in on the shoulders of five
men, and badly wounded. He was laid on the floor and search made, but
no wound being discovered, he was given some hot brandy and water, when
it transpired that his revolver had accidentally gone off in the pocket
of his _pants_. He sat up and ate a very good dinner, but blood having
been discovered under his chair, it was thought advisable to make a
further examination on our arrival next day in the _Firm_ at Yokohama.
[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
[Sidenote: Jan. 24.]
The English mail having arrived at Yokohama on 20th, we sailed the
following day, and arrived off Osaka on the 24th, in time to cross the
bar before dusk, when I proceeded to the Legation, _Rodney_ going on to
Corvé Bay. News had already reached Osaka of the burnings and doings at
Yedo.
[Sidenote: Jan. 26.]
On 26th took leave of Sir Harry Parkes for a while; my intention to
leave Captain Stanhope of _Ocean_ in charge. The Tycoon’s troops, some
2000 strong, marched this morning for Miako. Reports of disaffection
on part of Satsuma’s followers; most likely provisions failing.
[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]
Shifted flag to _Adventure_, and took leave of Japan for a while.
_Rodney_ to follow.
[Sidenote: Feb. 1.]
Arrived at Shanghai. Made arrangements with regard to the new Naval
Yard to be established on the right bank of Woosung River.
[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]
Shifted flag to _Salamis_.
[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Feb. 10.]
Arrived at Hong Kong, 10.40 A.M. _Rodney_ arrived 2.30 P.M. Shifted
flag to her. Each successive mail from northward brought accounts of
the movements of the Civil War. The troops whom the Tycoon had sent
against the disaffected princes had been met by Satsuma’s followers and
dispersed. The Tycoon, taking fright, had departed for city of Yedo,
leaving his magnificent castle to be burnt. The Foreign Legations had
quitted Osaka the best way they could, and retired upon Hiogo under
the protection of the ships-of-war. The Tycoon’s want of courage and
retreat greatly disgusted Monsieur Roches, the French Minister. The
French having embarked large sums in the construction of docks and
other works, were pecuniarily interested in the stability of the
Tycoon’s Government. M. Roches retired to Yokohama, and would likely
have continued his retreat to Paris, had he not been stopped by the
newly-arrived French Admiral, Monsieur Ohier.
[Sidenote: Japan. Flag in _Rodney_.]
Other wavering Princes declared for the Mikado, in whose name Satsuma,
Tosa, Chion, and other Daimios carried on the war against the Tycoon.
Among them the Prince of Bozin came up from the westward; his line
of march lay through Hiogo, and skirted the territory which had been
allotted and already taken possession of by the foreigners. Prince
Bozin’s advanced guard had gone on, and when his main body came up and
were abreast of the Foreign Settlement, the not uncommon order for
all to prostrate themselves was given. Two French seamen who were on
the road attempted to cross the line of troops and were charged with
spears. In the confusion the officer in command of Bozin’s troops
gave the order to fire, an order which was immediately obeyed; but,
as in all probability it was the first time the Japs had ever to fire
in earnest, no great damage was done, but the alarm was sounded: the
Minister’s guard of fifty men belonging to the 9th Regiment turned out,
marines and seamen from our man-of-war (_Ocean_) hurried on shore.
Just as the disturbance commenced, Sir Harry Parkes, with Captain
Stanhope, was returning from a walk, attended by two dismounted men
of the Body Guard. They made for the Consulate across the open space
which had been cleared for the Foreign Settlement, and afforded capital
pot-shots for the excited Japs, who for a few minutes had it all their
own way; but by the end of that time the 9th were advancing, and in a
few minutes afterwards Parkes was out at the head of his troopers, and
the Japs, in full retreat, throwing away all extra weight, dispersed
towards the hills with the agility of monkeys. Parkes came up with,
and captured, three brass guns. Two French and one American had been
wounded.
Nothing could have happened worse or more inopportunely for the
disaffected chiefs, whose last wish it was to offend the foreigners,
while we (the foreigners) made a very grave affair of the whole
business, demanding ample apologies from the Mikado himself, and
nothing short of the execution of the officer who had given the order.
All this was conceded, and eventually carried out.
* * * * *
Mr. Mitford of the Legation, whose duty it was to attend the ceremony
of Hara-Kari, sent me a description of it, which is inserted later.
* * * * *
[Sidenote: Feb. 22.]
Complimented Americans by firing Royal Salute, anniversary of General
Washington’s birth. Flag in _Rodney_.
[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]
_Tamar_ arrived with 10th Regiment for Yokohama.
[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]
French frigate _La Place_ arrived with Admiral Ohier.
[Sidenote: Mar. 21.]
United States S.S. _Hartford_, Commodore Gouldisborough, sailed;
cheered him on quitting the station.
[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]
Weighed under plain sail and ran through the Lyemoon Pass.
CHAPTER XCI
HARI-KARI
[Sidenote: 1868. March.]
My fair readers, if I have any, are advised to skip the next twenty
pages, which deal with tragedies upon which I reported officially at
the time.
Mr. Mitford, who was present at the ceremony of Hari-Kari, sent me
the following account. The officer’s name was Taki Zingaburo. The
ceremony took place on March 2, at 10.30 P.M., in the Temple of
Siefukigi, the headquarters of Satsuma’s troops. The courtyard was
filled with soldiers, and lighted by fires and lanterns. The witnesses
were conducted into a room in the temple, where Ito Shunski (formerly
interpreter on board the _Rodney_), the provisional Governor of
Hiogo, came soon after, and, having taken down their names, told them
that himself and another officer, on the part of the Mikado, two of
Satsuma’s officers, two of Choshin’s, and a representative of the
Prince of Bizen, would act as Renshi--sheriffs or witnesses. Seven were
appointed, probably that their numbers might agree with those of the
foreigners.
After a short delay, they were invited to follow the Japanese witnesses
into the principal hall of the temple. On the raised platform,
immediately in front of the high altar, was placed a rug of red felt.
The temple was dimly lighted with tall candles. The Japanese witnesses
took their places on the left, and the foreigners on the right, of the
raised floor. No other persons were present in the hall.
[Sidenote: April.]
After an interval of a few minutes, Taki Zingaburo, a stalwart,
noble-looking fellow, walked into the hall, attired in his dress of
ceremony, accompanied by his Kaishaku and three officers in their
jimbasri, or war surcoat. (Kaishaku is one to whom our word executioner
is no equivalent: the office is that of a gentleman, usually filled by
a friend or kinsman or the condemned. In this instance the Kaishaku was
a pupil of Taki Zingaburo, chosen for his skill in swordsmanship.) He
advanced slowly, with the Kaishaku on his left, towards the Japanese
witnesses and bowed before them; then, drawing near to the foreigners,
he saluted, with perhaps rather more show of respect. In each case the
salutation was ceremoniously returned.
Slowly, and with great dignity, he mounted on the raised floor,
prostrated himself before the high altar, and then seated himself on
the felt carpet with his back to the altar, the Kaishaku crouching on
his left.
One of the three attendant officers then came forward, bearing a
tray, on which, wrapped in paper, lay the dirk. This he handed with a
bow to the condemned man, who received it, reverently raising it to
his head, and placed it in front of himself. After another profound
obeisance, the condemned man, in a voice of some emotion, and with
just so much hesitation as would be natural to a man about to make a
disagreeable confession, but with no sign of fear, said, “I, and I
alone, unwarrantably gave the order to fire on the foreigners at Corvé
as they tried to escape. For this crime I disembowel myself. And I
beg you who are here present to do me the honour of witnessing the
act.” After delivering this speech, he allowed his upper garments to
slip down to his girdle--carefully, according to custom, tucking his
sleeves under his knees, that he might die as a Samarai should, falling
forward. Deliberately, with a steady hand, he took the dirk that lay
before him. For a few seconds he seemed to collect his thoughts, and
then stabbing himself deeply below the waist on the left side, he drew
the dirk slowly to the right. As the dirk reached the right side, he
gave a slight cut upwards, and then lent forwards, stretching out his
head.
An expression of pain for the first time crossed his face, and the
Kaishaku, who had been keenly watching every motion, sprang to his
legs, and poising his sword in the air for a second, with one stroke
severed the head from the body, during a dead silence. The Kaishaku
having wiped his sword, bowed solemnly to the witnesses and removed the
dirk as a proof of the death of Taki Zingaburo, aged thirty-two. Ito
Shumski and the other representatives of the Mikado left their places,
and advancing to where the foreigners sat, called on them to witness
that the execution had been faithfully performed.
The ceremony, to which the place and the hour gave a most solemn
effect, was characterised by that extreme dignity and punctiliousness
which are the distinctive marks of a Japanese gentleman of rank, and it
is not unimportant to note this fact, because it carries with it the
conviction that the dead man was the officer who committed the crime
and not a substitute. I am happy to think that Captain Stanhope did
what he could to save this man’s life, but he was in a minority.
This execution was soon followed by a frightful tragedy. At Hong Kong,
on March 23, I received a letter from Captain Stanhope of the _Ocean_
off Osaka, informing me that on the 8th the French corvette _Dupleix_
had sent her steam launch, accompanied by her whale-boat, to Sakai, a
small town about six miles on the Hiogo side of Osaka, to wait there
for Captain Roy of the _Venus_, and the French Consul. The steam launch
had been lying some time alongside the wharf, and the townspeople had
come down and been very civil to the crew. After a while, at about 5
P.M., the engineer and coxswain of the launch asked the midshipman’s
permission to go up for a stroll.
The lieutenant, who was in the whale-boat, had been up for a walk an
hour or two previous without so much as having seen a two-sworded man.
The mid granted permission, but the engineer and gunner had not gone
far before some two-sworded men seized and tried to secure them; from
these they broke away and made for their boat; as they did so they were
fired on by a number of armed men. The coxswain was shot and fell into
the boat; the engineer jumped overboard and got to the off side; two
more cut the bow and stern fasts; the stoker tried to turn the engines
ahead and was immediately pierced by three bullets; the steam-pipe
was likewise shot through; the mid in charge, with six men, jumped
overboard.
The First Lieutenant in the whale-boat, who was just outside taking
soundings, pulled in and was fired on by some seventy or eighty men.
He had one man shot down, and having no arms, he did not advance
farther; in meantime the steam launch drifted out and was taken hold
of by the whale-boat and towed out of range. Having made sail on the
launch, and leaving the engineer, who was the only person on board
not wounded, to steer, the Lieutenant proceeded to report matters on
board his ship, the _Dupleix_. Out of sixteen men in the launch and
five in the whaleboat only five with them were not hurt. The captain
of the _Dupleix_ sent a petty officer to report matters to Captain
Stanhope; while he proceeded with his remaining boats armed to Sakai to
try if he could find the mid and six men who had jumped overboard, not
being aware of the force the Japanese might have, and not wishing to
compromise the Foreign Ministers residing at Osaka.
It was not the intention of Captain Du Petit Thours to attack the
place, but he requested Captain Stanhope to acquaint the ministers with
the state of affairs. Captain Stanhope immediately sent Lieutenant
Rougemont in his steam launch with a letter to Sir Harry Parkes,
offering to send boats for their embarkation, and the _Cockchafer_
gunboat to cover them. The _Rinaldo_ he sent to Hiogo to protect
foreign subjects in case of an outbreak there.
The Captain of the _Dupleix_ returned from Sakai at about 11 P.M.
without having learnt anything of the missing men, not having been able
to land. He saw many Japanese in the fort, while others were running
down to field-pieces at the landing-stage.
_Ocean’s_ steam launch returned from Osaka at 6 the following morning,
bringing off Captain Roy of the _Venus_ and Captain Creighton of the
U.S. _Oneida_, also a letter from Sir Harry Parkes, declining, with
his usual coolness, to embark immediately, saying that the Japanese
Minister had been to him to express their deep regret at the outrage,
and declared that the Mikado’s Government would give full satisfaction.
On the 9th March the French and American Ministers embarked. The French
Minister having demanded that the officer and missing men should be
given up, whether dead or alive, in twenty-four hours, their bodies
were taken alongside the _Adventure_ in a Japanese boat, which was at
once towed to the _Dupleix_.
On the 10th Sir Harry Parkes embarked on board the _Ocean_, all the
Foreign Ministers being then afloat.
The funeral of the French midshipman and the ten seamen who were killed
by the Japanese took place at the cemetery at Hiogo: all the usual
honours being paid by the officers and ships-of-war present.
A newspaper report goes on to state that the French Minister, Captain,
and officers grasped each other’s hands over the graves, and called on
the Almighty to witness the vows they then made not to rest satisfied
until they had avenged the blood of their murdered countrymen.
The French Minister then took into consideration the ultimate demands
he intended to make, which he would submit to the other Foreign
Ministers before presenting them to the Mikado’s Government. These
demands are not likely to be either mild or pleasant to the young
Mikado’s newly formed Government, and, considering Monsieur Roches’
interest in the Tycoon, and proportionate aversion to his opponents,
unless mitigated and smoothed down by Sir Harry Parkes, the ultimatum
will, I think, be very embarrassing, and who can see the end of it or
the Civil War either. A raw is established, and will be worked.
[Sidenote: _Written on board_ Rodney, _March 29, off Breaker Point_, en
route _to Yokohama_.]
In the meantime, preparations on the part of the Mikado’s Government
still continue for an advance on Yedo, and likewise on the part of
the Tycoon to resist. Then, again, neither Chiefs appear to have much
control over the two-sworded ruffians, their followers. An attack by
both sets united on the foreign settlements at Yokohama would show
little less judgment or recklessness of consequences than the insane
attack on the foreigners at Corvé, or the French boat’s crew at Sakai.
CHAPTER XCII
THE CHINA COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1868. Flag in _Rodney_, Yokohama, Apr. 6.]
_Rattler_, Commander John Swan, arrived, a good fellow, but subject to
fits. Obliged to send him to hospital. Prussian frigate, saluted under
her new flag.
[Sidenote: Apr. 25.]
Poor Swan departed this life.
[Sidenote: Apr. 26.]
Appointed Harry Stephenson to command _Rattler_ and Keppel Garnier to
be Flag-Lieutenant.
[Sidenote: May 9.]
Proceeded down the bay, _Rattler_ in company.
[Sidenote: May 17.]
Came to in Corvé Bay.
[Sidenote: May 18.]
Weighed; stood over in company. Japan flag in _Rodney_. With _Ocean_
to Osaka. Flag saluted by the French frigate _Dupleix_. Came to off
the bar. Self and Captains were presented to the Mikado by Sir Harry
Parkes. With Minister, accompanied by staff, we were carried up
through the streets, crowded with Japanese. Sir Harry Parkes presented
credentials, and we were introduced severally to the Mikado. All the
chief nobles were prostrate in his presence, their heads touching the
ground. The Mikado appeared to be a lad of sixteen. The streets were
lined with kneeling Japanese.
[Sidenote: Osaka, May 23.]
Japanese princes and great officers visited Rodney and _Ocean_.
[Sidenote: May 25.]
Weighed under steam. Came to off Nagasaki. Japan may well be called
the “Gem of the Sea” from her geographical position, her magnificent
harbours and inland sea, the approaches to which might be rendered
impregnable. It is a rich country, with mines of coal and iron,
fisheries, and a vast maritime population. Japan is coveted alike by
Russia, America, and France; and its possession would enable the power
holding to monopolise the whole trade in China.
The Japanese naturally fear the steady march of Russia towards Japan.
They see that in ten years China has yielded to that country 900 miles
of coast, all tending towards the possession of Japan, which has
harbours open at all seasons of the year, while Russia’s boundary line
on the islands off the coast has brought her to the door of Japan.
It is apparent that if we maintain a proper position in Japan, in
consideration of our vast Eastern trade, England and other nations, not
wishing to acquire territory, will always be in a position to preserve
the integrity of Japan.
America has discovered that Yokohama is the most convenient place for
a depot of coal for her 4000-ton Pacific steamers, and the United
States Senior Naval Officer informed me that they intended to establish
store-houses at Nagasaki for their men-of-war. Russia has already a
small dockyard at Nagasaki.
The French have been, and are still, constructing docks, and have
established, at the Japanese Government’s expense, a small colony at
Yokosha, near Yokohama.
At present we have as good a footing in Japan as any other nation; our
trade exceeds that of all others, and more British capital has been
invested. I am urging upon the Admiralty the necessity for building a
naval hospital at Yokohama, owing to its salubrious climate, and also
a bungalow for the use of the Naval Commander-in-Chief, as there is
nothing of the kind on the station.
It was proposed last year that I should visit the Gulf of Tartary
and the Amoor River this summer. While at Peking in September, got
Sir Rutherford Alcock to speak to the Russian Minister, Monsieur A.
Vlangali, as I did myself afterwards, requesting him to mention my
intention to the Governor at Nicolai.
Our party was to have consisted of George Fitzroy, with his wife
and children, Conolly, from the Peking Legation, and the Commodore.
Fitzroy had remained too long in Shanghai, and was obliged to start
earlier than he intended for a cruise in the P. and O. _Benares_.
They had reached Yokohama the day before I arrived from Hong Kong in
the _Rodney_ (Mrs. Fitzroy was with him, the children remaining at
Shanghai). I persuaded him to embark immediately on board _Rodney_,
where he could have the advantage of the best medical advice. Doctor
Hill took charge of him. We sailed from Yokohama on May 19, and arrived
at Nagasaki, May 28, passing through the inland sea, and unfortunately
landed Fitzroy apparently no better than when he embarked.
The _Salamis_ arrived on 11th from Cheefoo, bringing Conolly, who had
found his way from Peking. _Basilisk_ (6), Captain Hewitt, arrived on
14th, bringing our mail and the Commodore. Dr. Hill pronounced Fitzroy
in too precarious a state to embark, and kindly volunteered to remain
behind.
[Illustration: _Map--Northern China, with Coast of Siberia._]
We had two other passengers, who promised to be of much use to us in
Russian waters. One was a Mr. Esche, the tenant of a large extent
of the coal district in the Island of Saghalien, himself a German,
but speaking the Russian language fluently; the other, Mr. Adams, the
contractor, who had before been attending a Russian squadron in these
seas in that capacity, a kind-hearted jolly personage, known in the
gunroom by the name of “Beef and Vegetables.”
From Sir Rutherford Alcock I received a letter addressed to himself
from the Russian Minister, Mr. Vlangali, stating that he had written
to Admiral Jean Furnhjelm, Governor of the Province and Coast, on the
subject of my intended visit, that although he had not yet received an
answer, he was sure that orders would everywhere be given, “pour faire
à votre Amiral tous les soins qui lui sont dûs.”
[Sidenote: June 3.]
Leaving the _Rodney_ at Nagasaki, I took a week’s cruise in the
_Sylvia_, surveying vessel, Commander Brooker, during which we passed
through Hirado or Spex Strait, Commander Brooker having just completed
a survey of it.
[Sidenote: June 17.]
Soon after daylight we weighed in _Rodney_ and steamed out of Nagasaki
Harbour, steering for the beautiful passage through Hirado Strait,
which, since Brooker’s excellent survey, I considered perfectly safe
with so good a Staff-Commander as we had in Harris. Successfully
performed this feat. _Rodney_ must have been by far the largest ship
that ever went through. We then shaped a course to the westward of Iki,
through the East Korea Strait, and to the northward along the Korean
coast.
[Sidenote: Novogorod Harbour, June 20.]
Came to in Novogorod Harbour. In spite of the survey of Posietta Bay,
the entrance to the harbour is difficult to find on a first visit; it
is narrow, but safe. The settlement, consisting of half-a-dozen huts,
did not look inviting, but the scenery round was fine: hills covered
with fresh green pasturage and brushwood, while well-sheltered harbours
within extensive bays were seen in every direction. I was waited on by
Major Pfingsten, the officer in temporary charge. He had with him a
garrison of fifty men, while about nine miles inland they had a large
encampment. The Governor of Eastern Siberia, General Korsakof, and the
Lieutenant-Governor, Rear-Admiral Furnhjelm, were at a place some miles
distant, to whom Major Pfingsten telegraphed our arrival.
Close to the settlement was a coal mine, which they were slowly working
with soldiers and such tools as they had, assisted just at this time
by a dozen Manchurian Chinese prisoners, taken in a border warfare, in
which the Governor, with his Lieutenant and a thousand men, was then
engaged.
When at Cheefoo in October I heard of an island in about latitude 42°
40´ off the coast and claimed by the Russians, on which a party of
about three hundred Chinese were working for gold, which was reported
to be plentiful; and that the Russians had sent a gunboat to drive the
Chinese away, who, being well armed, had beaten the Russians off: all
this, we heard from Major Pfingsten, it proved to be true, he had only
lately returned from an expedition to the island of Mayatchni (called
in our charts “Termination”).
Having no steamer available, he had started in a sailing vessel with
600 soldiers, including artillery, but as he was six days going the
ninety miles, the Chinese received timely notice and had wisely
decamped. When the major arrived he found three men only on the island:
these he shot to prove who were the rightful owners of the soil, and
then returned. The Chinamen, who appear to have come from Manchuria,
succeeded in stirring up their countrymen and brought on this petty
border warfare on which the Governor and his lieutenant were engaged,
and which will, in all probability, end in further aggression and
annexation on the part of the Russians.
Whether His Excellency did not approve of our visiting his territory
when he was engaged in so inglorious a warfare, I cannot tell, but the
return telegraph arrived without a civil word of welcome, and with
directions to the Major not to supply us with coal. The Major rather
softened this by stating that they expected the Governors in their
respective vessels, both of which would require coal; and certainly the
small supply of about twenty tons we saw ready on the beach would not
have helped us much.
During our stay fishing and shooting parties went away, but we were
too early in the season. The ducks were on their eggs, and the salmon,
so plentiful later, had not arrived. Ducks, geese, curlew, pigeon, and
widgeon were brought on board in small quantities; two or three shots
had been fired at deer and the footprints of bear had been seen; in
fact, a guide who had conducted a party to the ground most frequented
by wild duck had killed three bears the day before our arrival.
Tigers are numerous, but only visit the coast in the winter, during
which time their hair is long and their skins handsome. There were in
the camp bear and otter skins for sale, as well as a few sables, for
which as much as nine dollars a piece was asked, the market value being
about a tael or three shillings.
[Sidenote: Novogorod, June.]
One day, mounted by the Major on capital ponies, Conolly, Garnier,
Risk, and self rode to the camp, about nine miles distant by land,
although two miles by water. From the _Rodney_ you might land within
half a mile. The ponies, with plain snaffle bits, had excellent mouths.
At the camp, which was situated on a healthy-looking elevated plain on
the bank of a small river, we found the same sombre-looking mechanical
soldiers that we saw in the Crimea: smoke and drink apparently their
only object, no games or amusement of any sort going on.
The country appeared to be well supplied with cattle, fat and in good
condition, but nowhere did we see sheep. During our ride we had to
cross and re-cross a river by ferry.
The Manchurian prisoners were unhappy-looking fellows. I saw them
one day after returning from working at the coal-mines locked up in
a wretched hut. One of the guard threw a few biscuits on the ground,
which the last two men picked up, probably their only meal. The Major
told Conolly that he thought his prisoners were belonging to a band of
rebels that had long infested the north of China. He described the men
that attacked the Russian gunboat party on the island of Mayatchni as
being well organized and drilled, and he believed they had Europeans
amongst them. Two of the prisoners had been liberated to treat for a
ransom. Major Pfingsten had not made up his mind whether to shoot the
prisoners; probably when too weak to work any longer at the coal-mine
he will do so. There were two long sheds full of grain, brought all the
way from Cronstadt.
The soil appears in every way adapted for either cultivation or
pasture, but beyond the herds of bullocks no attempt was made to cause
it to support the human beings located. The few women there were at
the settlement and in the camp were of a low sort--convicts. Every
encouragement was given to any soldier who would take one to wife
and settle in the country, land being given gratis, but no advantage
appeared to be taken of this. We were recommended not to send our
clothes on shore to be washed, as they would probably be stolen.
The Major was married, his wife being the only person worthy the
appellation of lady; an agreeable person, with good eyes and teeth; she
came on board to breakfast and enjoyed our band.
[Sidenote: June 26.]
At 9.45 P.M. steamer’s lights were observed outside, and shortly
afterwards our Staff-Commander piloted the _Salamis_ in, bringing our
mail from Shanghai.
[Sidenote: June 27.]
At half-past ten weighed under steam, in company with _Salamis_. She
having some defect in her machinery, was directed to Vladivostock,
which Captain Courtenay in his excellent report describes as somewhat
more cheery and civilized than Novogorod. Although _Salamis’s_ defects
were nothing but what she could put to rights with her own engineers,
she was to rejoin us in Castrie’s Bay. Afternoon, all being well, clear
of the bay, got screw up, having only just coal enough to keep us in
distilled water. Stood to the eastward, and when well off shore, shaped
a course up the Gulf of Tartary.
[Sidenote: Saghalien. Usu Bay. July 4.]
Made Cape Lamanon on the coast of Saghalien. At 7, came to in 7 fathoms
in Usu Bay. Here we found a straggling village of Ainos, all fishermen.
A small stream ran into the sea, off the mouth of which their nets were
arranged, forming three sides of a square, the fourth open on the land
side. The outside was about a cable’s length from the shore, the two
sides extending the whole length, close to the outside net. But on the
inside they had another net which appeared to lie on the bottom; this
they drew up every now and then, generally bringing up from thirty to
fifty salmon. A few buttons or a bit of silver would buy as many as we
liked to take.
We found a Japanese trading junk from Hakodadi, bringing salt and
rice in exchange for dried fish and seaweed. The Russians appeared to
assume authority over the more simple Ainos, and I have no doubt drove
lucrative bargains. The hills and woods, with the green grass, had,
from the ship, an inviting appearance which was dispelled on attempting
to walk, owing to the rank vegetation and myriads of mosquitoes. The
Ainos themselves were as dirty as need be. In a cage was the usual
bear, petted and fattened to be killed and eaten at the annual festival
amidst lamentations and rejoicings, when all get drunk who can. They
had a few skins for sale, and among them Dr. Fegan, with the assistance
of Adams, succeeded in getting me three tolerably good sables.
A little to the northward of where we anchored there was a larger
river, apparently full of salmon; although they would not take the
flies offered them, no end of smaller salmon and trout of about a
quarter of a pound were landed as fast as the lines could be applied.
After I had returned on board in the afternoon, I observed from the
stern walk an unusual commotion among the native fishing-boats that had
spread their nets off the mouth of the stream; one of our boats on its
way to the ship with the wardroom officers, coming off to dinner, had
been attracted to the spot. There was cheering and shots were fired.
One of the cutters was ready manned, alongside. Calling the Commodore,
we jumped into her, followed by Garnier, who took the precaution to
bring a couple of rifle carbines--always ready with ammunition in
the fore cabin. It was a curious and exciting scene. A whale had got
entangled in the fishermen’s net and was floundering about in its
endeavours to escape. Our boats with those of the natives formed three
sides of a square just outside the edge of the net, that side next the
shore it being unnecessary to guard. Every minute or so the monster
raised his huge head to blow--I expect as much to look about him--and
then exposed his body as he dived. On each occasion he was assailed by
shots, spears, and lances. Although I had seen thousands of whales, I
never before had been within boat-hook’s length of a live one. Each
time his head appeared the Commodore and I sent a rifle bullet into it.
While the natives plunged lances, the beast spouted blood and water;
twice he tried to hoist the cutter, but with the crew we were too
heavy for him, as he only tilted us on one side; this work had lasted
nearly half an hour, and we thought his strength exhausted, when the
infuriated animal, probably pierced deeper by one of the lances, made
a final effort. Lashing his tail, he dashed through the net, lifted
one of the lighter native boats, out of which the crew had previously
escaped, into the air, and made for the deep, leaving a wake of blood.
It is to be hoped that the poor natives whose net he destroyed will
be rewarded in a day or two by finding his body. I was struck by the
number of dogs there were on shore, all apparently in good condition.
They were sledge dogs, and in the morning two teams of them were
scampering along the beach towing boats; there was no one on shore to
guide them, and they appeared to enjoy the fun.
[Sidenote: July 6.]
Weighed at 10.30 A.M. under plain sail. Observing on the chart there
were two lagoons near the coast, likely for wild fowl, visited them. On
standing in shore, we suddenly took the bottom; last cast in the chains
was 12 fathoms. Had to lay out stream and heave off; water smooth,
weather fine, but bottom foul. It was 8 P.M. before we took up our
berth in 7 fathoms, about two miles from the shore.
[Sidenote: July 7.]
The spot we selected for our picnic was on a bank about half cable
wide that separated the northern lagoon from the sea. There was the
usual bar; the sea being smooth, one of our boats passed up. We saw
no natives, but near where we landed was a hut, the residence of
fishermen during the last season. By the number of heads hung up to
dry (as winter food for the sleigh dogs), salmon must have been large
and plentiful. Eight and a half couple of wild ducks were bagged by
the parties “gunning.” The lagoons appeared to be bordered by long
grass and sedges and surrounded by hills covered with firs; these woods
were difficult to get through, not so much from underwood as from the
enormous quantity of decayed and fallen timber, which was covered with
moss or hid by ferns, and treacherous to tread on. Beyond the hut
mentioned, I can imagine no ground better adapted for the breeding of
wild-fowl. None of the pine trees appeared to grow to any size. In
working his way through the wood Heneage disturbed a covey of birds,
quite young, about a dozen of them; we shot one, a pheasant.
[Sidenote: Najassi, July 8.]
9.15 A.M.--Weighed and made sail. Our next place was to be Najassi,
some fourteen miles farther to the northward, where Mr. Esche had a
small settlement and a grant of an extensive coal district; We came to
in the afternoon off his house, determined to coal during continuance
of fine weather. We found Mr. Esche’s hut on the right bank of a small
stream, the inhabitants of the settlement consisting of one Russian
and a boy; they appeared happy and contented, netting as much salmon
as they required for use, drying and salting others for winter food.
They were occasionally visited by bears. Although provided with a
double-barrelled rifle, Esche never liked to fire for fear of provoking
an attack.
[Sidenote: Najassi.]
However, he showed me, in case of Bruin’s coming to close quarters, a
formidable-looking spear, which was kept inside the house. There had
been some Chinese coolies and boat-builders, but they preferred the
society of Nicholai.
Green hills rose everywhere from the beach, intersected at two or three
hundred yards by ravines and rivulets, while patches of coal were
seen cropping out in all directions, at the foot, at the sides and
tops, every convenient height for mining. The great and only drawback
to this valuable property was the want of a harbour or shelter for
coal-lighters. About four miles to the southward of where Mr. Esche
had built his hut is a small river, inside which there is a good boat
harbour; but, like all the other streams, there is a bar on which the
surf must always break, except in the finest weather.
[Sidenote: July 10.]
Coaling was performed by our own people filling bags and then loading
alternately our pinnace and a boat belonging to the settlement, which
was towed backwards and forwards by the steam launch; by these means we
managed to get about forty tons per day. While the coaling was going
on, our usual sporting parties were formed. There was but little for
the guns, but the salmon were in and swarming up both the streams and
river to the southward. Although small salmon and trout of about six
inches long were caught by hundreds with every sort of bait, no salmon
of any size would look at a fly, so we were obliged to resort to other
means. The stream at the settlement was ascended many miles into the
interior between the mountains, the water tumbling into deep pools at
ten or twelve feet distances--these were black at the bottom with large
fish. To get at them a net was placed across the stream below; we, with
spears and grains, standing on boulders or seated across a fallen tree,
had great excitement and fun, as the salmon, started from the pool by
means of long poles, made across the shallows for the nearest hole.
A score of fine fish, from eight to fourteen pounds, were taken this
way in one day; but none, except those that had been wounded, could be
driven into the net. Another party remained at a pool, some two miles
up the stream, all night, and had great sport in spearing salmon by
torchlight.
[Sidenote: Najassi, July 11.]
The ascent up the stream was difficult and tedious; the banks, from
wood and vegetation, except for a yard or two here and there, were
impassable, independently of the most formidable mosquitoes, while the
stream was rapid and the large water-washed stones smooth and slippery.
Nevertheless, substantial meals and everything requisite to support
the inward man were conveyed up. The larger river to the southward was
where there were most fish: these likewise took no notice of the fly,
but the roe from the female salmon was immediately taken by a large
fish, who leapt some feet out of the water on first taste of the hook,
and then making a bolt down stream, round a boulder, disappeared with
some fathoms of line.
On a flat piece of ground between the sea and the left bank of the
river (here deep and some sixty yards wide), there is an Aino village
of fishermen, the chief more respectable-looking than the generality of
his countrymen, but with the left side of his face bandaged up, having
suffered from the claw of a bear. Three or four of them would go in a
rickety boat, and with a small net draw one of the many pools, bringing
out at each draught some forty or fifty fine salmon; these fellows were
at first liberal enough with their fish, allowing you to take what you
wanted for a small coin, a little cloth or rum, but afterwards, when
they had got all they wanted, had the impudence to demand a dollar for
one fish, so that it became high time that we should help ourselves.
The ship’s seine was brought and cast outside the mouth of the river,
when, in a few hauls, some five hundred salmon were taken--more than
enough for the ship’s company and some to salt besides.
[Sidenote: July 18.]
We weighed and shifted under sail to a bay called Pilyawo.
[Sidenote: July 19.]
Being the Sabbath we remained quiet, with the exception of sending a
boat to communicate with a German vessel that took Mr. Esche on to
Castries Bay.
[Sidenote: July 20.]
Joined by _Rattler_, and the following day we sailed in company.
[Sidenote: July 22.]
Came to in Tonquiera Bay, _Rattler_ going to Duè to fill up coal.
[Sidenote: July 24.]
Weighed at daylight and stood to Castries Bay, where we came to in the
evening, finding _Salamis_. Heard by her of the sad death at Nagasaki
of poor George Fitzroy. I cannot say that it was quite unexpected,
almost every one but his charming wife felt he could not recover. On
our departure for the Russian coast I had left our clever surgeon Hill
to look after him. In the Crimea I attended the deathbed of the elder
brother, Augustus. Just as I arrived at Sierra Leone in February 1861,
Arthur Fitzroy, in command of the _Falcon_, died of fever. As children
at the Cape we had all four played together.
_Rattler_ rejoining in the night, shifted flag to _Salamis_. It was
a gratification to see young Harry Stephenson in all the pride of a
“first command.” On Sunday I dined on board his ship, and slept on
board the _Salamis_, preparatory to a start for Nicholai, pilots having
been most willingly provided by the officials.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, July 27.]
Little to remark going up. Channel muddy and intricate, with the
distant shore of Saghalien scarcely visible to the eastward. There were
buoys at some of the angles, and beacons on the land to the westward,
to place which the pine-trees had been cleared away. Our leadsmen
frequently had “1/4 less 2,” but we never stopped.
Snow-white fish, not porpoises--they said, were tumbling about: round
snouts, blow-hole on back of head, 7 or 8 feet long, not fit for food.
As we neared the entrance, occasional fishing villages were seen, with
no end of salmon drying, dogs and dirt to any amount.
CHAPTER XCIII
FLAG IN _SALAMIS_
[Sidenote: 1868. Flag in _Salamis_, July 27. Nicholai.]
6 P.M.--Arrived off Nicholai, 120 miles from Castries Bay; current
strong against us. On anchoring, was waited on by officers from the
two vessels-of-war, offering services; also an officer, in full dress,
from the Commandant, wishing to know at what time I should land. Having
arranged for 11 A.M. on the morrow, was received on landing by the
Commandant, Captain Fukevitche, of the Navy; numerous decorations. We
landed, a large party; besides self and staff, Commodore, Conolly and
Stephenson. Proceeded in the first place to call on Madame Furnhjelm,
wife of the Governor, who was also an admiral; daily expected from the
southward. Nothing could be kinder or more cordial than my reception.
[Sidenote: Nicholai, July 28.]
A small detached house, evidently the Governor’s office, was placed
at my disposal, everything convenient, clean and comfortable for “one
party”--a guard and orderlies outside, a note from Madame stating that
I should be daily expected at dinner, breakfast and luncheon being sent
to my room. The Commandant then showed all the public establishments,
hospital, dockyards, etc., which were all very well and wonderful for
so distant a settlement.
But nothing bores me so much as this official sight-seeing, so took
advantage of the first opportunity to excuse myself, as I had friends
on board _Salamis_ to luncheon, and then returned to my allotted
quarters, where my things had been conveyed. While putting on my
“citizen’s dress,” a luxury in which no Russian officer ever indulges,
a rather good-looking but powerful Russian girl walked in, and placed a
salmon, fresh butter, caviare, cheese, sherry and port on the table.
The Commodore, Garnier, and Dob Crosbie rather liking the appearance of
things, we changed our minds about luncheon on board. Afterwards took a
stroll with Conolly. Plan of future city well laid out. Streets wide,
although stumps of forest trees still retain their places. Population
said to be five thousand, of which three thousand are military. The
club was kindly placed at the disposal of our officers, but most of the
Russians being here on punishment, much was not expected of them, and
collision rather avoided.
The rooms offered were unfurnished, but speedily filled with pillows,
blankets, saddles, carpet-bags, etc. A little later, party of a dozen
were mounted on hired ponies galloping into the country, headed by
good-natured lieutenant Peakroff of the Russian Navy.
There are several stores kept by Germans and Americans, full of
“notions,” in which furs and skins may be picked up, but no criterion
of the proper price of things could be formed from what was asked of
us, supposed, “rich English.” Small parties of unclean natives, with
hair uncombed, wearing their shirts outside, fastened at the waist,
and sealskin boots, prowled about the streets jungle fashion. They
generally have sables concealed on their persons for barter, which
does not diminish the offensive smell of the uncured skins.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.]
Their mode of dealing is curious. A party of five or six walk into a
room without uttering a word or appearing to take notice of anything.
They squat down in an extended ring according to the size of the room,
and commence smoking. After a lapse of some minutes one of them draws
a sable from under his clothes with the fur inside, and chucks it
into the middle of the circle. The owner of the house, who has been
attending to other things with a studied indifference has (by accident
of course!) to pass through the room, takes up the skin, examines the
fur inside, and makes an offer, generally of cloth or tobacco. If it
comes up to their idea they take it and walk off. If not the skin is
returned to its savoury berth. They separate without comment.
When back to my quarters there was another note from Madame Furnhjelm,
inviting Conolly and Pusey to dine there every evening during our stay.
Conolly went to answer in person, proposing that during the absence
of the Admiral, her husband, we might be allowed to avail ourselves
of the use of the club, dine at the _table d’hôte_, and wait on her
in the evening. Such an arrangement this kind lady would not hear of.
She is a fine handsome woman, of English parents, full of anecdote and
information, with a family of three or four: a wonderful performer on
the piano. Her husband had been Governor of Russian America, since sold
to the United States. The tea she gave us was excellent, and, as I had
often heard of Russian tea, superior to anything we got in China.
The Governor of Eastern Siberia is General Korsakof, a young man who
commanded at Petropauloviski at the time of our absurd expedition in
1855. He rode night and day to St. Petersburg, which he reached in
an extraordinary short time, with the account of our defeat. He went
into the presence of Nicholas I. a captain, and left it a general. I
regret we are not to see him here, he having returned inland from Port
Vladivostock.
[Sidenote: July 29.]
While dressing, my servant informed me that a fine ham and two eggs had
been sent for my breakfast. The ham was of the wild boar, excellent,
but of immense size.
Pusey had sent the boats of the _Salamis_ about five miles down to the
mouth of a small river on the north bank with the seines: a good excuse
for a picnic. The Commodore, Conolly, Crosbie, Garnier, and self, were
kindly mounted by the Commandant; we went by a tolerably good road.
They had had two good hauls, taking about three hundred fish before we
got there; after luncheon the net, a small one with a bag, was laid out
a few yards higher up the river, and in less than ten minutes upwards
of a thousand salmon and trout were landed, independently of about
three hundred returned to the river, said to be spawning. They were
distinguished by an extraordinary rounding of the back.
Our dinners with Madame Furnhjelm were excellent--some strange Russian
dishes, intended for our edification, but everything in English style.
In the evening some ladies dropped in, mostly speaking English, and we
had singing and music. The days were long, and between dinner and tea
Madame took me a drive in her carriage, ponies rough, but strong and
fat.
[Sidenote: The Amoor, July 30.]
A small iron steamer about sixty feet long, and drawing only two
feet water, was placed at our disposal for a trip up the Amoor.
Some hopes of wild fowl were held out. We started a large party; two
Russian officers speaking French accompanied us. The vessel was named
the Russian for “Courier,” and attached to the telegraph department,
the line taking the right bank of the river. She was kept with the
apparatus on board ready for repairing accidents to the wire. She could
go 1500 miles up the Amoor, which river was of a red muddy colour,
rendering the contrast great as the white, silvery backs of the fish
showed above as they tumbled over.
We kept up the right bank, which rose precipitately, except at the
ravines, which occurred every quarter of a mile, where there was a
rivulet, a small Russian hut, a settlement, a place for drying fish or
the cutting up of timber for fire or building purposes. About 12 miles
up we came to a Russian village; a picnic being the principal object, a
shady spot was selected, and fire lighted.
After the songs were expended, only three sportsmen could be found to
proceed up the river in a canoe in search of wild fowl, while none
could be found to face the wood, so well guarded by mosquitoes. Grouse
were said to abound, but in all probability looking after their young
broods. The remainder of us proceeded in the steamer, another mile up,
to a Gilak village called Kaki. It was the season for drying fish, and
anything more offensive than the smell could not be.
There were bears in different parts of the village: one, an immensely
powerful brute, confined in a log-hut, from whom it took three men to
draw a stick one of them had thrust through the bars, which Bruin had
seized in his paw. There were two smaller ones in separate cages, and
in one of the houses we saw two young ones, which had been caught as
cubs, and with the natives were quite tame, although fully aware of the
presence of strangers.
Dogs for winter sleighs were innumerable, all apparently in good
condition, and with few exceptions secured in irons. The inside of
the houses had fires in the centre for cooking, and a raised platform
about five feet wide attached to the wall. The interiors were not
inviting; the drinking and cooking utensils were of the most primitive
description, made out of the bark of the white beech.
In one hut there was the only pretty native we had seen, a young
creature with an infant, whom she rocked in the most ingenious of
cradles. A Russian officer, struck with the young lady’s charms,
purchased her on the spot, and arranged her transport to his quarters
with as much _sang-froid_ as if he had been ordering a case of
champagne to be sent there. Conolly bought a cradle similar to the one
we had just seen, but not the kid which was lying in it!
Returned to the Russian village to pick up the sportsmen. Return of
game, nil. It is said this race of Gilaks is fast becoming extinct,
through the ravages of small-pox.
[Sidenote: July 31.]
According to previous arrangement Madame Furnhjelm came to see the
ships, bringing with her the wife of Captain Riskoff of the Russian
Navy, she also speaking English. We steamed up the river; but the
afternoon setting in rainy, after going some 15 miles with little
variety of scene, we anchored and had tiffin and then back, having
recourse to whist, Madame Riskoff playing a remarkably good game.
Conolly and self had made up our minds, if we could get the use of
a small steamer, to go up the Amoor and Usuri rivers so as to join
the _Rodney_ at Vladivostock by going about 150 miles overland after
leaving the Usuri.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.]
As the time for the departure of the _Salamis_ to save the mail at
Shanghai was at hand, and the Governor still absent, I wrote a private
note to the Commandant, asking if he could provide me with a steamer;
but in Russia a subordinate dare not take the slightest responsibility;
so the reply, official, and written in the best of English, was vague.
He could let me have a steamer as far as Hovorafka, the junction of the
Usuri, but had no power to send her beyond, and that the post horses
had been removed from Bonsey on account of the border war; this was the
place we should have landed at, to cross over to Vladivostock. However,
a telegram announced the arrival of the Admiral in Castries Bay, so I
deferred the departure of _Salamis_ until noon of the 2nd, while I was
prepared to depart at that hour by either route.
[Sidenote: Aug. 1.]
The Commodore, Conolly, Pusey, and self, dined with Madame Furnhjelm.
Just before the dinner hour the steamer with Governor-Admiral hove in
sight, but this kind lady declined to excuse us; she said two hours
must elapse before the steamer could come up against the stream and
anchor. We, however, withdrew in time not to be present at the first
meeting after three months’ absence. The Admiral could not have been
at home five minutes before he came in full costume to call on me, in
his own house, after which we returned to tea with Madame. Admiral
Furnhjelm is a hale, handsome man of about fifty, rather bald, gray
hair, with very black eyebrows, manner most cordial and kind. I did not
allude to the letter I had written relative to ascending the Usuri,
but His Excellency remarked that he had heard of my visit, I suppose
from his wife, and that there were many difficulties, but that he would
give me an answer before ten o’clock the following morning.
[Sidenote: Aug. 2.]
We had made our arrangements for either route, but, I must confess,
with some anxiety as to the result. No more novel or agreeable trip
could be conceived than that we had proposed by river.
Precisely at the appointed time, the Admiral, with a large map, at
once laid before us what he conceived to be great difficulties. The
insurrection and invasion to the southward by these Chinese rebels
had caused them to withdraw all the horses along the post road for
the use of the troops; that the rebels, although dispersed, were not
subdued, and might be marauding the country, and that beyond the point
called Bonsey, he could not be responsible for our lives. Most of these
difficulties could, he said, in a couple of weeks, be overcome, and an
escort got ready.
However, kindly placed before us as it was, it was evident we were not
wanted, so we put the best face on our disappointment, thanked him all
the same, but declined attempting the journey.
A parting breakfast was prepared for us, and our party having
embarked, _Salamis_ weighed, and soon was passing rapidly down the
river, assisted by the current. The battery saluted with fifteen guns,
_Rodney_ having fired a similar number on arrival of the Admiral in
Castries Bay without a return.
Our pilot was an intelligent young officer who had himself planned and
placed the numerous buoys and landmarks, without which no one, however
experienced, could guide a vessel clear of the shoals. The landmarks
are ingeniously arranged, being triangular whitewashed frames, showing
the rear higher than the other. To place these the dark-looking
fir-trees had been felled in the line, and the landmarks were seldom
visible more than one pair at a time.
[Sidenote: Aug. 3.]
We anchored in Castries Bay a little after 1 A.M., and might have done
the distance within the twelve hours had it not been for the dense fogs
so prevalent in these seas, especially on the China side. The pilot,
who had run for a high bluff, had a curious way of ascertaining its
vicinity in a fog, or at night, by blowing the steam whistle; if near
the high land there would be an echo.
With this assurance he suddenly put his helm hard-a-port and stood
boldly in until within range of the _Rodney’s_ responding guns and the
curious glare of the blue lights which could scarcely penetrate the fog.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Rodney_.]
During the two days here made several attempts to dredge for shells,
but with trifling success. The steam launch being well adapted,
fishing parties away catching large quantities of whiting, which were
excellent. They seized at any bait with which the hook was covered;
some rock cod were caught in same way--in the seine, off the mouths of
three rivers, 435 salmon and trout and 1450 flat fish. Several broods
of young grouse perched in trees were seen by walking parties. During
our picnics, where our dredging parties landed, I had much difficulty
in preventing the men from taking the numerous young birds that were
found in the holes and crevices of rocks, Jack always fancying that
because the small things opened their mouths he could feed and rear
them.
The greatest number were a species of diver about the size of a
widgeon, with the brightest orange-coloured legs and beak, with
ornamental horns or plumes on each side of the head; the plumage
black--eye, light green with small black spot in centre; narrow red
edge to eyelid. The flight was rapid, like others of the species. We
shot a few as specimens. Among them a bird, with a sharp-pointed bill,
upper one slightly hooked, as if for extracting fish from shells, with
still brighter red legs, same colour inside the mouth, plumage black,
eye black.
[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]
_Rattler_ despatched to coal at Duè and then to stop _Basilisk_ with
our mail at Possiette Bay.
[Sidenote: Duè, Aug. 5.]
Sailed soon after daylight for Duè, off which we arrived at 3 P.M.
Observed _Salamis_ steaming to the southward, _Rattler_ at anchor--a
Russian transport apparently in a hurry coaling, the lighters grounding
at low water. It being spring tides, therefore dispatched _Rattler_
with what she had, and proceeded to coal ourselves, with the two
lighters they had spared the _Rattler_. A convenient wooden pier
enabled our people, with the use of the Russian carts that ran along a
tramway, to coal pretty well. The village looked wretched and dirty.
There were barracks, hospital, and storehouses.
On an eminence to the northward is a tolerable lighthouse--some small
gardens up the two ravines, down which the village is watered. The
population consisted chiefly of convicts. Coal appeared to crop out in
all directions.
The Commandant was a sort of Cossack savage of low rank, but, although
generally under the influence of drink, always treated me with military
respect. His garrison consisted of about fifteen persons, distinguished
from the villagers by being allowed, occasionally, to shave. The women
were repulsive-looking, and all wore great boots. The Commandant always
presented me with an official return of the state of his garrison,
which no one could decipher. Drunkenness was the order of the day. A
small log-shed with a hole about eighteen inches square was the only
receptacle for such as could not stand. Into this they were thrust head
foremost by those that could, and from which they came out, I suppose,
when able to do so without help.
The evening before we sailed some of our officers assembled for a
convivial evening at the Commandant’s. In the middle of a song his wife
withdrew behind a screen that divided the apartment, and a few minutes
afterwards a noise, as from a kid, announced the birth of a child,
which proved to be the son and heir. Instead of retiring and leaving
the lady in her trouble, a toast was drunk and an impromptu song in
honour of the little stranger. I had called on the lady two days before
and observed nothing particular except that she looked like a Cossack
without a beard.
[Sidenote: Aug. 8.]
Having completed coaling (coal six roubles per ton), and settled
accounts, we weighed. Some twelve miles to the southward we had heard
of a place, “Adnginoo,” with a river, and fish and crystals to be
picked up; we came to abreast of it. The river, like all others along
the coast, has a bar entrance--a short distance up it is exceedingly
picturesque.
Some of our party ascended in the light boats of the Gelyaks. There
were the usual small villages at the mouth, with dried fish, sleigh
dogs, confined bears, smell and dirt. Natives, a quiet inoffensive
race, their only weapon a fish spear. One seining party had several
good hauls, getting, besides salmon, what our fishermen called cucumber
smelts; they certainly smelt of cucumber, and were good eating. Several
fish were also taken. I pinned one down in the river with a boat-hook.
With the dense wood and covert along the coast and mountains the nearly
total absence of any living thing was remarkable. High up the river, a
rather peculiar mussel was found, so thick and firmly implanted that
the bottom of the river had the appearance of pavement. I obtained
specimens. A fresh breeze having sprung up from the westward, we
hurried our sportsmen on board and weighed under sail. There might have
been crystal caves in the neighbourhood, but we found nothing beyond
broken stones with small pieces of crystal attached. With the dredge I
had no success.
CHAPTER XCIV
THE CHINA COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1868. Flag in _Rodney_, Aug. 14.]
Came to in Vladivostock Harbour: usual salutes. Etholin, the
Commandant, had promised a deer-shooting day before we left. Lately
the rain had fallen regularly. The season was early, but our time and
provisions were short. At an early hour _Ogle_, with fifty marines,
landed to assist in driving. There was a small peninsula, the neck of
which was not more than one hundred yards across.
[Sidenote: Vladivostock.]
The deer were in plenty, but not easily circumvented. Three only were
seen to take to the isthmus; the remainder broke through the line of
beaters, who were armed with pikes only. When our party of twelve
arrived in steam launch, one of the three deer had taken to the water
and escaped.
A two-mile walk through swampy ground brought us to the isthmus, where
the cordon of marines was drawn. Of our party, Rose volunteered when
half-way through the swamp to go back and send the launch to the next
bay. He met with his reward.
Of the two deer that had been driven, one only turned up on the return,
and observing the men stationed across the neck of land took to the
water on the opposite side, to which the launch was coming. No time
was lost in hauling the native boat, in tow, over the land into the
sea on the opposite side; the young stag swam well, but a bullet from
Rose’s gun divided the spine; the poor animal was brought in triumph
to the shore. It was a large force to welcome the one trophy, but the
excitement was great.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, Aug. 29.]
At sunset flag was transferred to _Salamis_, and on 29th we parted
company with _Rodney_, to meet again (D.V.) in four months’ time.
_Basilisk_ had sailed at daylight for Hong Kong with our mails and
herself for return home.
[Sidenote: Hakodadi, Aug. 31.]
Started for Hakodadi; arrived on 31st, but finding no coal proceeded
same day. Some little excitement had been caused at Hakodadi by the
arrival of one of the vessels engaged in the Macao coolie or slave
trade. The old story--the coolies found they had been taken in; watched
their opportunity, murdered the crew. They had evidently been to the
coast of Siberia, and afterwards drifted into Volcano Bay, when some
Japs brought them into Hakodadi.
The first person on board was Mr. Butcher, our contractor, who, finding
a British flag hoisted, claimed her as his property. The American
Consul being next on board discovered _his_ national flag, on which he
hauled down the English and substituted the stars and stripes. However,
the Japs, being assured that they, in the absence of the real owner,
had the best claim, took advantage of the darkness of night to take
an overhand knot in the fly of the stripes and hoisted the Japanese
flag: this was considered by the United States Consul a great insult
to his nation; hence the excitement. A piece of absurdity in which I
did not interfere, except in giving my opinion that the United States
Consul had no more right to hoist his flag than our contractor had the
English! However, I left them to settle it their own way.
[Sidenote: Yokohama, Sept. 2.]
At sunset we arrived in Yokohama Bay; found _Ocean_ and _Rattler_.
Civil War progressing; the Mikado’s Government in possession. Our Naval
Instructors of Japanese could not go on with their work, and not caring
to be paid for nothing, tendered their resignations through me to Sir
Harry Parkes.
This the Japanese gladly accepted, as it enabled them to get rid of
the French Military Instructors, who, through their late minister, had
shown a decided preference to the Tycoon; besides, their demands for
payment were out of proportion to their services. They were angry with
the perfidious English for having set the example of not receiving pay
for that they did not do. From information we had gained during our
northern cruise, it was considered desirable that the Russians should
be looked up, to the northward of Yesso, and as this was an affair in
which the French minister considered they had an equal interest, the
_Rattler_ and _Dupleix_ were told off for that service.
The mail from England arrived, bringing me the sad news of my dear
friend Rajah Brooke’s death; a final paralytic seizure from which he
never rallied.
[Sidenote: _Salamis_, Hong Kong, Sept. 24.]
We started for Osaka, hurried to Nagasaki, communicated with _Rodney_
at Woosung, went to Shanghai, Amoy, and Hong Kong, arriving there on
October 14. Here was stationed the _Princess Charlotte_, bearing the
broad pennant of Commodore Oliver Jones, an eccentric good fellow,
who managed the dockyard and south part of the station; in the hot
season he generally came on leave and joined the Commander-in-Chief in
the north and cooler parts. The _Princess Charlotte_ was jury-rigged,
the same I had seen launched at Portsmouth when the dock broke in
September 1825. Jones kept the smaller vessels in a constant move, and
I believe outdid his chief in hospitality. He was a good draughtsman as
well, fond of sport; later on he ended his days in the hunting field.
Heard at Hong Kong that on August 22 and 23 the home of Mr. Taylor and
other members of the China Inland Mission had been attacked, pillaged,
and partially burnt. The residents were pelted with stones, one having
his sight much injured, while the wife of one of the missionaries,
although far advanced in pregnancy, was obliged to jump out of a
window. These missionary ladies do their hair in Chinese style, and
wear the Chinese costume, and look remarkably well in it--from their
fairness and size, being a vast improvement on their models.
The outrages resulted from placards prepared by the literati of
the district, who endeavoured to excite the rancour of the mob by
proclaiming that the missionaries scooped out the eyes of the dying,
and opened Foundling Hospitals that they might eat children and
prepare medicine from their brains. Previous to the attack, Mr. Taylor
earnestly sought protection from the local Chinese authorities, begging
that the placards might be taken down, but without avail.
The _Rinaldo_, Commander Robinson, proceeded to Chinkiang and Nankin
on September 3, conveying Mr. Consul Medhurst from Shanghai, whose
representations resulted in a proclamation acknowledging the right
of foreigners to reside in the country, and enjoining the people to
respect them. A promise was also made of reparation to those who were
injured.
At this stage, Commander Bush of the _Rinaldo_, having an attack of
illness, started off to Shanghai, leaving Mr. Medhurst in a house-boat
to settle the affair. No sooner was the protection or prestige of
the man-of-war removed than the Chinese authorities became insolent,
refusing to grant the Consul the interview he had a right to demand,
and withdrew all their previous concessions. At the same time the
literati published fresh placards, threatening to burn down any
house rented by foreigners, refusing them the right of residence at
Chinkiang. Mr. Medhurst, failing in his negotiation, returned to Hong
Kong to await further instructions from Sir Rutherford Alcock.
[Sidenote: Oct. 13.]
To Macao in packet steamer. Joined following day by _Salamis_.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, Affairs in Formosa, Nov. 1.]
After we were under weigh in Macao roads, a gunboat joined us from
Hong Kong with the northern mail, bringing pressing letters for my
interference in Formosa. Having previously made arrangements for all
contingencies, proceeded on the route I had arranged for visiting the
southern part of the station. I had left the _Rodney_ at Shanghai, with
instructions to Captain Heneage to carry out the views of the Consul,
Mr. (afterwards Sir Walter) Medhurst, and render him every support.
Directions were also given to prepare such a force as would overawe the
troublesome Tontais in Formosa. Captain Heneage proceeded in _Rodney_,
_Rinaldo_, and _Stanley_ in company, to Nankin, where he was reinforced
by Lord Charles Scott in the _Icarus_ and the _Zebra_, Commander
Trollope. Mr. Medhurst was on board the _Rodney_.
It became apparent that the Viceroy, Tseng Kuo-fau, rested his faith on
diplomatic fencing. The first step of our diplomacy was to seize the
Chinese screw gunboat _Tien Chi_ as a material guarantee for fulfilment
of the claims of our Consul. One of these was that proclamations
engraved on stone should be erected in the principal places,
acknowledging the full right of Europeans to reside and exercise their
calling. Compensation was demanded for the injuries inflicted on the
persons and property of the missionaries; these and some minor demands
were at once conceded, and the gun-boat was released.
Subsequently the Consul, accompanied by a strong landing party from the
ships, under the immediate command of Captain Heneage, proceeded to
Yeng Cheow, where they remained until the Viceroy’s concessions were
enforced.
During the past year British subjects and other foreigners have been
repeatedly maltreated by people connected with the local authorities
at Taiwan and Takan in Formosa. The Tontai attempted to carry out a
monopoly of the camphor trade. Six thousand dollars’ worth of that
drug, owned by Messrs. Ellis and Co., was seized. An Englishman named
Haidore was stabbed. Dr. Maxwell, a missionary, was accused of murder,
and the mode of proving his guilt was somewhat curious. A mob, bearing
on their shoulders a native joss, carried it round the house, and
suddenly stopping, the hand of the image was made to point to a certain
spot, where they commenced digging.
To the astonishment of the Doctor, a number of human bones were turned
up, which, of course, had been previously placed there. Notice of
this “discovery” was published, stating that the bones were those of
Maxwell’s victims, and his house was burned down. The Consul, Mr.
Gibson, when about to start for Pitows to confront Dr. Maxwell with his
accusers, got information of three ambuscades prepared to intercept him
on the road.
Other outrages occurred and native Christians met with inhuman
persecution. The Chinese authorities evaded our claims for redress;
at one moment pretending to concede, at the next withdrawing their
promises. The Tontai of Amoy was ordered from Peking, to proceed to
Formosa and settle all existing difficulties; but he coolly informed
Her Majesty’s Consul on his arrival that they appeared to him of so
little importance, he was determined to return to Amoy without any
practical investigation into the real state of affairs. Mr. Gibson saw
that some material guarantee was necessary for the fulfilment of his
claims, and requested Lieutenant Gurdon of the _Algerine_ to occupy
Amping and the Fort of Zelandia, which forts constituted the key to the
capital of Formosa, Tai-wan-foo, from which they are distant some 3000
yards.
The Tontai, having in the first instance agreed that Amping should be
held as a guarantee, appears now to have ordered it to be put into a
state of defence. Lieutenant Gurdon observed this and gave notice to
the inhabitants of his intention. He then opened fire at about 2000
yards from the pivot gun of _Algerine_. Finding, however, that he was
unable to prevent the construction of earthworks--forty-one guns were
already in position--he determined to surprise the camp at night. At
10.30 P.M. Gurdon left the _Algerine_ in his gig, accompanied by the
cutter, containing two officers and twenty-three men. He landed on the
beach in a heavy surf about two miles below the town. The gig, in spite
of precaution, was swamped.
Having formed on the beach, he threw out skirmishers and advanced
with caution, taking advantage of every inequality of ground. When
within eight hundred yards, he observed Chinese moving about the
fortifications, and the moon shining brightly, he made his men lie
down under the cover of some rising ground until 2 A.M., when he made a
rush, and was in the heart of the town before he was discovered. Gurdon
got hold of a guide and at once proceeded to the Heptar’s Yamun, the
door of which he burst in before he could get at the garrison, which
consisted of about fifty men. They barricaded the door of an inner
apartment, extinguished the lights, and, refusing to surrender, were
fired on, when some eight were killed.
It was, of course, not the time for Gurdon, with his handful of men, to
show the slightest hesitation. The remainder of the Chinese soldiers
broke down a door in their rear and escaped. It was daylight before
Gurdon had time to take possession of Fort Zelandia and station his
men, when the enemy were observed in force coming up from Tai-wan-foo,
led by a mandarin carrying a yellow flag. They were received with
such a deadly fire from the unerring Snider that in less than five
minutes the mandarin’s men broke and fled, leaving our little force in
possession. The loss of the Chinese during this little engagement was
twenty-one killed and thirty-six wounded, while the mandarin, unable to
face the disgrace, returned to his quarters and committed suicide.
Gurdon belonged to Norfolk. He sent me some of his captured brass guns.
The result of this action was the complete submission of the Tontai.
The attempted monopoly of the camphor trade was broken down. The
ringleaders in the outrage against Dr. Maxwell were punished by
decapitation; pecuniary compensation was made to Ellis and Company
for their losses, and a guarantee given for future good behaviour.
However, there was dissatisfaction at Peking. The Prince of Kung
pretended to be much annoyed at the manner in which this affair had
been settled. Gibson got into a row with our Minister for having called
upon Gurdon to proceed to such active measures, and he was in danger
of being superseded. And yet negotiations had been going on for five
months, during which time the Tontais had set their own Government, our
Consuls, and all Treaty rights at defiance. I, too, had been preparing,
at the request of our Minister, a powerful force that would have
captured the Formosan capital, in spite of its garrison of 10,000 men,
when the gallant Gurdon cut the Gordian knot and spoilt my “pidgin.”
* * * * *
There came in due time wiggings from the Foreign Office and the
Admiralty, in spite of the success of the operations. Gurdon and
I had the distinction of being traduced in the House of Commons.
Subsequently, on comparing notes with our Ambassador at Peking, who
had also been found fault with, we agreed how utterly ignorant our
authorities at home were of the manners and customs of the Chinese, and
have they not been so even since the time we are discussing? Wars have
already occurred on far less provocation.
CHAPTER XCV
THE COMMAND IN CHINA
[Sidenote: 1868. Nov. 1.]
At the same time we heard of the fresh complications in China, the mail
brought news of the loss of the _Rattler_ on September 24, in Shakotan
Bay. My grief was great. Poor _Rattler_; unlucky nephew! In the midst
of their trouble the French sloop _Dupleix_, with the ever kind Captain
du Petit Thours, arrived, and took them off to Yokohama.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.]
[Sidenote: Saigon. Nov. 5.]
We arrived at Saigon on November 5. There was no difficulty in finding
a pilot off Cape St. James. We proceeded at once up the river to
Saigon. On landing, was received by the French officials with every
demonstration of respect. The Governor’s carriage, drawn by four grays,
and a mounted escort, conveyed me to Government House, where apartments
for self and staff were ready. Marie Gustave Hector Ohier was Governor
and Naval Commander-in-Chief in China and Japan. He had served in the
French Naval Brigade in the Crimea; but we were on different Attacks,
and did not meet. His A.D.C. and Flag-Lieutenant, Comte G. F. Edmond de
Grancy, likewise a good fellow; his mother was English, and he spoke
our language fluently.
[Sidenote: Saigon.]
Saigon appears to have been well selected as a dockyard and arsenal;
situated 25 miles up a river navigable for line-of-battle ships, it
might be rendered invulnerable in these days of infernal machines:
a legitimate defence, as it can seldom be used except against an
aggressor. In the arsenal were all the means of building ships-of-war.
Several old line-of-battle lay in the river, besides an immense
troopship, equal to our largest. French rulers are energetic and
active. By means of convict labour, which they obtain from Bourbon,
they carry on roads and raise buildings.
The site for a magnificent city, with squares and palaces, is marked
out; but the great thing wanted is population, which, in spite of
the assurances of the young Comte de Grancy, beloved by the natives,
is now fast disappearing. In the temporary banquetting room, where I
was entertained, were pictures of the Emperor and Empress, to which
was added that of Isabella of Spain. Saddle horses were placed at our
disposal. Visited a large breeding establishment, chiefly of Australian
mares and Arab horses; but the produce were a weedy-looking lot! There
was a zealous and enterprising naturalist in one Monsieur Pierne,
Directeur du Jardin Botanique, Saigon, who appeared to work unassisted.
I was told that one road extended some 900 miles in a northerly
direction, which must bring them not far from our Burmese possessions.
We heard from the officers of the gunboats who make excursions up the
river that they frequently get shots at elephants and that tigers
are numerous. The sport may be good, but I should think the climate
was not to be trifled with. Nothing in the shape of curios was to be
obtained, with the exception of small boxes and stands inlaid with
mother-o’-pearl, in the making of which the natives seem to excel.
[Sidenote: Nov. 7.]
Sailed in the afternoon, having been escorted back as I had arrived.
When taking leave of Admiral Ohier on shore, I requested him not to
return my visit, as the one I now paid him was in return for that he
paid me at Hong Kong, when he departed without giving me an opportunity
of waiting on him. I was off the following morning for Singapore, where
we arrived on the 10th, staying only to coal before paying a long
promised visit to Siam.
[Sidenote: Bankok, Nov. 15.]
We arrived at Bankok on the 15th. The Consul-General, Colonel Knox,
kindly offered me the hospitality of the Consulate. W. H. Read was
already there, having come up at my request to settle some consular
matters which required attention. The young King Khoulalonkorn had but
recently succeeded his father, whose obsequies were proceeding.
In one of the principal temples, the remains of His Majesty were placed
in a huge silver urn, from which a ribbon passed through the hands
of numerous priests, whose duty it was to pray day and night for the
repose of the King’s soul. The ceremonies continue for a year, after
which all that is left of the departed is consigned to the flames.
Nothing could exceed the kindness of the young King: an intelligent and
good-looking youth. Banquets and entertainments were the order of the
day, and there was much of interest to see in the beautiful temples,
palaces, and buildings, placed in the most picturesque scenery.
[Sidenote: Nov. 18.]
On the 18th left for Sarawak, paying a short visit, and arrived at
Singapore on the 27th.
[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]
Weighed and steamed to the westward.
[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]
Came to in Penang Roads.
[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]
Mail steamer arrived, bringing the wife, Colin and little May, who were
quickly embarked.
[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]
Arrived at Singapore, but for the duties of command, with wife and kids
on board, my kind old friends made me feel doubly at home. Alongside
Kampong Bahru I felt the harbour was my own: it was scarcely discovered
when in the _Mæander_. I recommended it to a shifting Board of
Admiralty as the fittest coaling station in the Far East.
[Sidenote: Dec. 19. Labuan.]
Arrived at Labuan. Mr. Pope Henessey was the first on board; he had
a grievance. The officer in command of a gunboat had declined to
fire a royal salute when directed by the Governor to do so, on Mr.
Disraeli becoming Prime Minister. Explained that owing to accidents no
man-of-war mounting less than ten guns was allowed to fire a salute.
However, I was told that the zealous Governor had dug up some old
buried guns, and had his salute fired, not quite to regular time.
Vast improvements had been made since our last visit. Mr. Hugh Low,
the Secretary, had married his daughter to the Governor. Low was a
botanist, and had introduced that delicious fruit, the pumalo. Dr.
Treacher, the late Rajah’s friend, held a government appointment. De
Crespigny had left the navy and become a Resident. We remained till the
23rd.
[Sidenote: Dec. 26.]
[Sidenote: Dec. 31.]
Came to in Manila Bay. Courteously received as before in _Dido_,
and again in the _Mæander_. It has altered little in the past
five-and-twenty years, except to become more like a town on the
Riviera than those one finds in the East under our own flag. There are
plate-glass windows in the shops, a handsome boulevard, cafés, and
bands playing.
[Sidenote: 1869. Jan. 1.]
We were no sooner clear of Manila Bay than we began to experience what
it was to face the north-east monsoon. All my party were prostrate.
_Salamis_ was so sudden in her movements that cots were given up and
beds spread on the deck. My boy was in a burning fever--caught, we
supposed, at Labuan--patient and good, calling only for drink, but
unable to bear clothing.
[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Jan. 3.]
At 8.30 we came to in Hong Kong. Keppel Garnier started to ask Dr.
Hill to come from the _Melville_, hospital ship. The Governor and Lady
Macdonnell kindly arranged everything for our reception at Government
House, where we went on arrival. Doctors Murray and Dodds were soon in
attendance. After consultations, they tried to persuade us that Colin
would pull through. On service, wives and children ought to remain at
home!
However, the boy soon mended.
Nothing could have been more fortunate than the quarters into which
we had been so kindly received. There was scarcely a person in Hong
Kong who did not sympathise with us. Coxswain Webb was better than any
nurse. Our children were much at the Bertrand’s, where their charming
little daughter, Louise, took kindly to them. But all this has no
business in a sailor’s log!
Time passed pleasantly; with any other than the true Irish hospitality
with which we were entertained I should have fancied we were
over-staying our welcome. The flagship _Rodney_ did not put in an
appearance until the 21st. She had then to make good defects, and leave
was due to the crew.
[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]
We started, children and all, by the 8 A.M. steamer to pay a visit
to my old friend Robertson at his Yamun in Canton. Nothing could be
prettier than the passage through the Cap Sing Moon Pass, and when we
came to the Boca Tigris Forts I had much to relate of bygone days.
There, too, to the northward, was the fort I, with a small squadron,
in 1857, was instructed to capture, which “pidgin” was spoilt by the
Chinese not wanting to fight. I have at Bishopstoke the cap and sword
which the Chinese Governor threw away that he might not be recognized.
After a short stop at Whampoa, we arrived at the Pier of Canton, where
Robertson waited with chairs to receive us. Wenny Coke, who arrived a
few days previously from the north, came with us in the steamer, and
was also put up by Robertson.
Archdeacon Gray had kindly undertaken to show all there was. But we had
arranged to return in a day or two, and our time would not allow of our
seeing a tithe of what the kind Archdeacon wished. We, however, saw
one or two joss-houses, only curious when the meaning of the various
grotesque figures and inscriptions were explained. The City of the Dead
was the most extraordinary. It is a walled town, surrounded by a ditch,
as if it was ever likely to be attacked! It is here that all those who
can afford it deposit their dead until some auspicious day for the
funeral occurs, which may not be for years. Others who, having come
from some distant province to hold office under Government, deposit
their dead relatives in these clean and snug lodgings until they have
made their fortunes, or are turned out, as the case may be.
The city is composed of one-storied houses, the streets straight and
painfully quiet; some of the houses contained one, but the others
two or three coffins resting on stretchers. There were joss sticks
burning in most, with a change of raiment and other little comforts
the departed might require, and as there were a few priests about, I
daresay the “comforts” were appreciated.
Having an appointment to meet the Viceroy at the Consul’s Yamun, I
was obliged to leave the sightseers and had not time to partake of
an excellent luncheon; as it was I followed the Viceroy’s train of
followers, and had only donned my uniform in time to enter the room as
the Consul received him with a salute of three guns.
Our interview was the same as on a previous occasion, only now, as
established old friends, we were much more cordial. The children amused
themselves in the small, walled park attached to the Yamun, but a
change of weather and a cutting N.E. wind coming on, our experienced
friend the Archdeacon cautioned us to be careful.
Went out again curio-hunting, and on our return found a despatch
from the Commodore detailing an outrage at Swatow, in which some
well-known, ill-disposed villagers had fired into the _Cockchafer’s_
boats, wounding eleven persons (some badly), and the Commodore, pending
further instructions, was preparing to punish the offenders.
It was fortunate my being in Canton with the Consul, as it enabled
us at once to communicate with the Viceroy, Swatow being under his
jurisdiction. The boats of the _Cockchafer_, when away exercising
up the River Han, were assailed by stones by the inhabitants of the
semi-piratical village of Ou-teng-foi.
The Commander landed, intending to remonstrate with the headman of
the village, but as he could get no one to conduct him to his house,
he seized a well-dressed Chinaman who was near, and who had witnessed
the outrage, that he might take him before the Consul at Swatow to be
examined.
Without further provocation the villagers opened fire on the
_Cockchafer’s_ boats, who, finding themselves opposed to some six
hundred Chinese, made a running fight of it, as they retreated down the
river, killing and wounding several of their assailants, returning with
the gunner and a boatswain’s mate dangerously, and eight others, in a
less degree, wounded.
I at once placed myself in communication with the Viceroy of the two
Kwang provinces. That part of the department, Quang Tung, lying to
the northward and eastward of Canton had long resisted the Imperial
Power, refusing to pay taxes, while they themselves levied blackmail
on traders passing from Chow-Chow-Fou. An imperial army of from five
to six thousand troops was gradually making its way to Chow-Chow-Fou,
bringing the villages under subjection as it marched.
The inhabitants of the villages of Tang-Tau and Po-leng had on one
occasion roasted alive the mandarin who had been sent to govern them.
They placed another mandarin between two planks and sawed him in
halves. The Viceroy immediately sent orders for the army to advance,
and appointed two Commissioners, with a force and a couple of gunboats,
to co-operate with our forces towards the punishment of the offending
villages. The Commodore was ordered to take command of the _Rinaldo_,
_Perseus_, _Leven_, _Bouncer_, and _Cockchafer_, together with a party
of seamen and marines from the _Rodney_.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.]
These being soon ready, the Commodore proceeded to Swatow, with orders
to make preparations, but wait the arrival of the Commissioners and
Chinese forces. I, intending to follow in the _Salamis_, returned to
Hong Kong, and on the 30th hoisted the flag on board her, and left same
afternoon. Whether the Commodore thought that I should personally
supersede him in the command, I do not know. When I arrived at Swatow
on the 31st, I found he had neglected the latter part of his orders,
and the morning after his arrival, without waiting for the Viceroy’s
Commissioners, proceeded to land his marines and march up the banks to
protect the boats which conveyed the force up the creek that led to the
offending villages.
At 8 A.M. (28th January) an advance was made on the village of
Tang-Tau, which, together with that of Po-leng, had assisted the
villages of Ou-teng-foi in their attack. These three villages offered
more or less resistance: at each, the inhabitants were first to open
fire, and showed a bold front, but the Sneiders soon doubled up those
who did not take the earliest opportunity of dispersing as our men
advanced. Tang-Tau was burned. Po-leng was spared, as the inhabitants
made little resistance. Ou-teng-foi, which was barricaded, had their
defences destroyed, and principal houses burned. It was difficult to
ascertain the amount of loss of the villagers, as they were smart in
carrying off their killed and wounded, but the Commodore, thinking they
were sufficiently punished, re-embarked and returned to his ships. No
looting of any sort was allowed, although geese and poultry were in
plenty.
Our casualties were five wounded; the worst being Lieutenant Herbert
Gye, whose face and hands were badly burned by an explosion of
gunpowder lying loose on the floor of a house he was endeavouring to
set fire to. Lieutenant Aitkin was severely bambooed before and behind
by two Chinamen who rushed on him unawares, and Lieutenant Lloyd was
wounded in the foot by falling into a cleverly concealed trap armed
with a spear and intended for greater mischief.
The next day, 29th, the headmen of the villages sent in their
submission in the following terms, translated from the original:--
_Humble Petition_--
The Inhabitants of Tang-Tau, Po-leng, and Ou-teng-foi.
On the 8th day of this month, some children, seeing your great
country’s war-boats passing, were much frightened, and, racing away,
foolishly excited our people to attack them, for which the great army
has entered our villages and punished us.
We repent our fault fully, and, prostrating ourselves, beg,
undeserved, that mercy may be shown us, and promise that men and
women will, one and all, live peaceably and quietly for coming
generations under your favour.
Trusting that the great Consul will grant our prayers, etc.
Of course the Viceroy, to whom I had promised that the force I was
about to send from Hong Kong should wait to co-operate with his and his
Commissioners, was greatly disappointed, and I expect our Minister at
Peking (Sir Rutherford Alcock) will be the same.
[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]
10 A.M.--Weighed, and stood out of river Canton.
[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]
Arrived at Foochow. Proceeded up river Min, and anchored off Pagoda.
CHAPTER XCVI
THE NORTHERN PORTS
[Sidenote: 1869. Shanghai, Feb. 21.]
_Salamis_ arrived at Shanghai; at anchor off naval yard. When on a
visit to Sir Rutherford Alcock at Peking, in September 1867, he, having
been applied to by the merchants at Chin-kiang on the subject of
opening the Poyang Lake to steam navigation, expressed a wish that, if
an opportunity offered, I should visit and report on its capabilities.
The subject of the new treaty and fresh ports to be opened having been
discussed by the Chamber of Commerce here, and affairs either in Japan
or China not requiring my immediate presence, I decided on gratifying
a long-cherished wish of ascending the Yang-tse-kiang as far as
practicable in the _Salamis_.
Mr. Swinhoe, our late Consul at Taiwan, Formosa, a scholar, linguist,
and naturalist, has been selected by Sir Rutherford to visit and report
on such ports as are most desirable for trade; particularly near that
part of the Great River, the Poyang Lake, and above Hankow, even as far
as the province of Sechuen. In compliance with the Minister’s request,
the _Opossum_ gun-boat waits at Hankow to convey Mr. Swinhoe whither he
will.
The Shanghai Chamber of Commerce, more particularly interested in the
opening of new treaty ports, has selected Mr. Michi, an enterprising
traveller, and well acquainted with the value of teas and silks,
to proceed, at their request, with Mr. Swinhoe. Another gentleman,
Mr. Francis, accompanies them. The Chamber of Commerce at Shanghai
having also got the firm of Jardine and Company to lend their small
steam-vessel, she will be attached to the _Opossum_, with such
surveying officers as Brooker can dispatch from the _Sylvia_. Although
they will hardly have time to complete a survey of the river above
Hankow, they will be able to verify that of Captain Blakiston. On
Monday, February 8, we left the hospitable roof of Mr. Lavers, of the
firm of Gilman and Co., and started in the _Salamis_.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, March.]
The space between Shanghai and Hankow is now well-beaten ground, owing
to the Company’s steamers, which start both ways every two or three
days according to the freights they ship, carrying a large number of
passengers, the majority of whom are Chinese. The chief interest to
me is that twenty-seven years ago, when in the _Dido_, we formed one
of a large fleet of upwards of seventy men-of-war and transports, all
of which succeeded in getting up without the use of steam as far as
Nankin, which brought about peace and the signing of the treaty which
bore that name.
[Sidenote: Mar. 9.]
At sunset on Tuesday the 9th we came to off Chin-kiang, promising to
visit Silver Island on our return. On the following morning we found
that Mr. Allen, the Vice-Consul, and several other gentlemen, among
whom was a son of my old friend Carnie of former days at Singapore,
hearing of my weakness that way, had prepared a shooting excursion to
Deer Island, some six miles up the river.
As they could easily return with the current, we took the whole party
on board the _Salamis_, and before noon proceeded up the river and
anchored off the island, a long flat of about seven miles by four, and,
except at the time when we arrived, covered with long and strong reeds,
which the natives were cutting for thatch or fuel, making at same time
temporary, but not uncomfortable, huts to live in. There was no lack
of game or sportsmen, and from the quantity of firing the bag ought to
have been a large one: seven deer, and a few varieties of duck, teal,
and quail, was the result. The deer were what are called “hog,” with a
coarse rough hair and a peculiar tusk protruding, boar fashion, from
the jaw. We had an agreeable day and dined together in the wardroom,
the Chin-kiang party not leaving until late.
[Sidenote: Nankin, Mar. 11.]
Weighed at daylight, and came to off Nankin, but not in time to
perform an excursion to the Ming Tombs; people wishing to visit these
comfortably should write beforehand and have ponies or chairs ready. We
mounted the city wall on the highest point of the hill to the eastward,
the view from whence gives a good idea of the vast extent of water and
of the desolation inside. Fresh-looking ship guns marked U.S.R.M.,
which I read “United States Republic Marine,” were mounted and brought
to bear on the only anchorage fit for ships of any size; they were
about 42-pounders, of a pattern now obsolete, and had evidently been
placed since the visit of the _Rodney_.
Having been on the top of the great Porcelain Tower when it stood
prominent in its magnificence, I did not care to go now, as travellers
do, to seek for bricks among its ruins.
I have a printed copy of a letter addressed by the Shanghai General
Chamber of Commerce to W. H. Medhurst, Esq., in reply to an application
from our Minister at Peking, in which they enumerate the different
ports they think desirable should be opened. Among them is Wu-hu. Wu-hu
is situated about two miles above the mouth of a tributary stream, on
the right bank of the Yang-tse, about sixty miles above Nankin.
[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]
We anchored off this for a couple of hours on the afternoon of the
12th, when I proceeded up the creek with Swinhoe, Dob Crosbie, and the
pilot, and landed near the walled town. The whole right bank, and part
of the left, had trading junks thickly stowed side by side with ends
on to the shore, which gave proof of a vast amount of commerce; while,
judging from the buildings in progress, both city and suburbs were
gradually recovering from the effects of the late Civil War.
It is curious to note that early travellers in China have described
the country as either a “vast plain” or “an enormous fertile valley.”
More variation of surface, perhaps, does not appear in any country, and
where we should be most inclined to look for such features, namely on
its great artery, it is diversified enough to please the most exacting
of tourists.
Commencing at the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang, there is naturally a
considerable extent of flat alluvial land, the delta of the river,
where once, no doubt the ocean held its sway. But soon we come to hills
and high lands, and at Chin-kiang the eye is delighted with the steep
and rugged cliffs. About Nankin the country is prettily broken into
ridges and hills, and before reaching far above this, mountains shut in
the river on either side.
[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]
On the afternoon of the 13th we passed close to Nankin (pronounced and
spelt Bankin by our civil and communicative pilot, with a strong nasal
twang), such as might be found in the United States, and to which I
have ceased to object. He had often passed up here during the wars in
1861, in a vessel that was always ready to supply with “munitions” the
side that could pay best.
He pointed out the fort close to the river bank on the east side of
the Pagoda, once in possession of the Imperialists, while the rebels
held the city, the nearest wall of which was not a quarter of a mile
distant. There were also the stern posts to which two rebel chiefs
had been chained until released by death. The city subsequently
surrendered, when every living soul was put to death, and for weeks
after, decapitated bodies infested the river for miles. It was on
passing these batteries that Lord Elgin was fired at, on which occasion
young Birch, who had been one of my youngsters in the _Raleigh_, lost
an arm.
Our pilot not being quite as much at home as those who work the trading
steamers, we always came to in the evening; besides, our hurry was not
such as to prevent one seeing what was to be seen during daylight.
[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]
Weighing on 14th, by a little after 11 o’clock we came up with one of
the most picturesque objects on the river, a rock rising abruptly,
called the “Little Orphan”; but the day was dull and a mist hung over
the adjacent country: the right thing would have been to ascend a small
pagoda on the top and enjoy a splendid view. Shortly afterwards we
saw the Orphan Rock in the entrance of the Poyang Lake, standing in
bold relief, the guardian of the passage. On the left of the entrance
is Hu-kau, a temple within a high picturesque wall, where resides a
Chinese Admiral with his war junks.
The legend of the Orphan Rock, told us by the pilot, is, that in bygone
ages a Chinaman, with his wife and two children, was crossing the
river, when his boat was upset in a storm. The parents at once sank,
but a kind turtle rising to the surface, took the children on his back,
and instead of making for the shore, appears to have swum up stream,
when after a while one of the children slipped off and was drowned,
when there arose the rock now called “The Little Orphan.” The turtle
then made for the Poyang Lake with his second charge, but before he
reached the shoal the other child fell off at the spot where the rock
rose out of the water called “The Great Orphan.” The benevolent turtle
then died too, and his broken heart formed a huge rock not far from the
resting-place of the lost child.
[Sidenote: Sunday.]
We anchored off Chin-kiang as the bell was tolling for afternoon
service. Our appearance had caused the clergyman to delay the service
twenty minutes, but as we were not informed, his kind intention was
lost on us. This was one of the open ports selected on the river. Like
most of the towns on the southern bank of the Yang-tse, it had been in
the hands of the rebels, the effects of whose ravages were apparent. It
is a neat little settlement, with European-looking houses, a Bund in
front, and the handsome range of Lien-Shan mountains for a background.
The merchants here had long been aware of the advantages to trade that
would accrue by the opening of a port or ports on the Poyang Lakes,
with permission to ply steamers either as traders or tugs. As yet the
Chinese authorities, blind to their advantage, have been opposed to the
use of steam in the inner waters.
[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]
With the assistance of the _Faust_, a small steamboat of about forty
tons, kindly lent us by Jardine Mathieson’s firm at Shanghai, it was
my intention to have explored this lake, and I determined to wait her
arrival. She was to have followed us in tow of one of the American
steamers that run between Hankow and Shanghai. This proposed expedition
caused no small sensation in the settlement. Those who could not get
stowed away on board the _Salamis_, got ready their house-boats; two
started for the scene of action at once, as they knew their craft were
of too frail a construction to stand a tug of a greater rate than three
knots per hour.
While detained waiting for the _Faust_, several shooting parties went
forth, but with small results; those who went prepared only for snipe
fell in with duck, and _vice versa_. However, a little earlier in the
season, game of all sorts must be plentiful. Pheasants, ducks, teal,
and the hog deer were to be purchased.
[Sidenote: Mar. 17.]
The steamer from Shanghai arrived on the 17th, but without the
_Faust_, owing to a defect in her machinery. I therefore determined on
proceeding for Hankow without further delay, promising, if possible, to
explore the Poyang on my return, when we shall have the advantage of
several feet rise of water.
4.15 P.M.--Slipped from buoy to run up as far as we could before dark,
so as to ensure our reaching Hankow on the following day.
[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]
Weighed at five. We soon came to the most beautiful scenery we had yet
met with. High hills rising immediately from the bank, with woods,
a great improvement on the shrubs we had hitherto passed. The Spit
Rock is a peculiar feature in a narrow pass. The high-water line was
distinctly marked on the rocks some twenty feet above where we were.
Among the curious things we met were immense timber rafts, each with
its street of wooden houses. We came to off Hankow. Found _Opossum_
and a Russian gunboat, an old acquaintance of the Gulf of Tartary.
The good people of Hankow are noted for their hospitality, and before
leaving Shanghai, quarters were offered us in both the houses of
Jardine and Mathieson, and Gilman and Co. We had agreed with Mr. Lavers
to go to whichever house we should inconvenience the least, and they
were to settle it between them. We were claimed by Mr. and Mrs. Ramsay,
old friends of Mr. Gilman. A good fellow, Mr. Beveridge of Jardine’s
house, expressed great disappointment at our not going to him, but most
kindly took instead the whole of my staff, including Dob.
[Sidenote: Hankow.]
Hankow is only separated from Wu-chang and Han-yang by the Han and
Yang-tse rivers. The surrounding country is flat, and as I could not
look with commercial eyes on the adjacent cities, with their numerous
junks that lined the shore, especially at the junction of the Han,
where they seemed to form a deadlock, I am afraid I was a little
disappointed with the celestial emporium. On shore, and along the
walls, the high-water mark was clearly defined; about every three or
four years the country is inundated, without, however, affecting the
health of the place. Our countrywomen, and particularly the children,
looked fresh and blooming.
CHAPTER XCVII
MEMORIES OF GORDON
[Sidenote: 1869. Hankow, Mar. 19]
Mr. Caine, the Consul, and son of my old friend of former China days,
having given notice of my intention the day previous, at 10 A.M. we
crossed the river to Wu-chang, that I might pay my respects to the
Viceroy. Besides the Consul and myself our party consisted of Swinhoe,
Mr. Davenport, the consular interpreter, and Keppel Garnier, Flag
Lieutenant. The Viceroy was Li Hung Chang, who had fought for eighteen
years against the Tai-peng rebels and was considered the first general
in the Imperialist Army.
Gordon had held a command as brigadier-general under him, and Li it was
who so treacherously put to death Lar Wang and nine of the rebel chiefs
at the surrender of Soo-chow, on 7th December 1863, although Gordon
had pledged himself for their safety. The only time that Gordon was
known to carry arms were the two days after the execution of the Wangs,
when, had he fallen in with Li, there would have been two holes in Li’s
yellow waistcoat!
Besides my curiosity to see this celebrated scoundrel, I wanted the
loan of a most convenient little steamer, the _Hyson_, now lying in the
river, which had performed such wonderful feats in co-operation with
Gordon during the war.
We landed about a quarter of a mile below a pagoda, just built or
renovated, on the point where the city wall touches the river. Chairs,
with the official number of bearers, were found ready, proceeded at
once inside the city walls to the Viceroy’s Yamun. There was the usual
rush of guards and deliberation before the outer gates were opened,
although we were only punctual to our time.
There is a regular etiquette on all ceremonial visits as to how far
you may advance in your chair towards the first door of the three
apartments, at which you are met by the person you visit.
[Sidenote: Wu-chang.]
I received the honour due to the highest rank, and was placed on a
raised platform on the left of the Viceroy Li. Tea was ready, and
another table with sweetmeats--the usual compliments of asking your
age, health, and the balance of your family.
Before I proceeded to announce my intention of proceeding up the river,
His Excellency hoped I would not attempt to do so, urging that the
natives were troublesome and unaccustomed to foreigners, and he could
not be responsible for them. I replied that I had no fear with the
passport of so great a man. To this he made objections and excuses. We
then gathered round the sweetmeats and replied to numerous questions
about armament and guns, all showing a warlike tendency.
Viceroy Li is a tall, hard-looking man, and I should think quite
capable of ridding himself and his country of any number of rebel
kings, whether a British officer had become security or not. He seemed
to take a great fancy to my Bath Star, and said he should recommend me
to the Emperor for the distinguished order of the Imperial Dragon.
Our interview lasted for over an hour.
We took our departure for the residence of the Reverend Mr. John,
one of the greatest travellers in China, at whose house we found a
real English luncheon. He had a pretty, lively little daughter and a
wife who shared his labours. Mr. John afterwards accompanied us to
the curio-shops, which were poorly provided and inferior to those in
Hankow. He gave us much valuable information from the experience he had
gained in the Upper Yang-tse, and seemed to think the _Salamis_ would
have little difficulty in getting up to I-Chang, about 15 miles below
the first rapids.
[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]
Among those we visited was the Russian Consul, who concocted a
delicious beverage out of some rare green tea; so scarce that in a
twelvemonth he could seldom succeed in getting more than 120 lbs., and
that went to Russia for the Emperor’s use. There are several Russian
merchants who have been located for years in the interior cities
carrying on an extensive trade in furs, as well as silks and tea.
Russians appear to have a greater facility in acquiring languages than
other nations. In spite of the rain, cold, and damp, and anything but
the best of meat, certainly the worst of cooking, we enjoyed ourselves.
[Sidenote: Hankow, Mar. 21.]
_Sunday._--We were astonished at the appearance, before tiffin, of our
mail from England, four days before the expected time. Two Admirals
dead, and I top of list of Vice; _Rodney_ ordered home.
There is a neat little church in course of construction. Clergyman a
Mr. MacClatchy; his wife a sister of Sir Harry Parkes.
Of course there was a race-course, an agreeable and innocent amusement,
our host being among the light weights and about the best rider. The
old course was outside the city walls, on a flat some 12 miles in
extent with scarcely a tree to be seen. In winter, I am told, the flat
is covered with bustards, geese, and hares.
[Illustration: _May and Webb._]
The vessel that brought the mail did not bring the long-expected
_Faust_, and our departure was deferred. The good Doctor Gregory kindly
volunteering to look after my belongings, we left them, with the worthy
Webb to help: it was not so bad an arrangement.
[Sidenote: Mar. 24.]
At 3 P.M. the _Fusiama_ steamer put in an appearance, with the _Faust_
in tow. She was quickly in readiness to proceed, but Risk had too much
work to get through, so the early morning was fixed for our next start.
_En route_ to take leave of the children, found them with Webb in sad
distress over a string of rats secured by wire to a six-foot stick.
With the _Faust_ came up two surveying officers, Dawson from _Sylvia_,
and Palmer, who had been serving in the _Insolent_ at Chefoo. We
managed to get two Chinese pilots, who knew something of the river as
far as Yoh-chow, at the entrance of the Tung-ting Lake. We had also our
Shanghai pilot, Mr. Pendleton, an intelligent man, experienced in river
navigation. With all this staff, and the _Opossum_ some days ahead to
look out for difficulties, the knowing ones were betting that I should
never reach I-Chang. There is a good and well-conducted club at Hankow.
[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]
At 8 A.M. we had taken leave of the children and friends; a few
minutes after we were on our way to the interior of the Celestial
Empire--_Faust_, and a native boat hired by Messrs. Francis and Michi
to sleep in, in tow. Cannot say much for the interesting scenery, for
though the whole country is scarcely raised above the level of the
river from July to October, at the present time we were twenty feet
below. Except where there was a village we were steaming between mud
walls, on the top of which a few natives, or a boy on a buffalo with
the sky for a background, appeared, to break the monotony. When I say
between mud walls, the river was seldom less than half a mile wide.
We anchored at sunset, having had much bother with the hired native
boat. These craft are loosely put together, and do not stand towing
at any speed. This one looked like a lashed-up hammock. The woman on
board with a child in her arms roared to be released, declaring the
boat was filling and calling to her countrymen on the banks to come to
her rescue; but when Messrs Michi and Francis went on board the boat
was found to be all right, no attention was paid to her, while she
continued to roar and wipe her tears with the arm of her child, while
her crew joined in chorus: one of them, to prove his distress, lay on
his back kicking the air with his nailed boots.
[Sidenote: Tung-ting Lake, Mar. 26.]
At about 3 P.M. we had struck off from the Yang-tse to go down the
branch that leads to the Tung-ting Lake, and five miles farther came
to off Yo-chow, situated at the outlet. A high wall hid from our view
the city, which appears to have been built on a bluff; for healthiness
it must be as well, or better, than any of the towns we had passed.
Yo-chow is the great port for the wealthy province of Hainan, and I
should imagine well adapted for one of the Treaty Ports, but, opening
it would shut up Hankow, where sufficient money has already been
expended.
[Sidenote: Yo-chow.]
There was a good assortment of trading junks; two customs Government
boats were showily decorated, the Captain was entertaining a tea
party. Our surveying officers landed to take sights for chronometers
and soon collected a crowd, some of whom, when the officers had picked
up their instruments and turned their backs to go down to the boat,
began hooting and throwing stones, a number of specimens of which were
brought on board; some of them quite big enough to have knocked a man
off his thwart.
Observing what was going on, I ordered a blank gun to be fired to
remind them that we were a vessel-of-war, and might pitch something
into them that would hit harder than stones. I asked Swinhoe, who was
just shoving off from the ship, to go alongside the Government vessel
and demand an explanation. The Captain, who was at that moment sitting
down to entertain his guests, said that, seeing the gathering of roughs
that was taking place, he had despatched a messenger to the Prefect,
telling him of the outrage and recommending his sending down a force to
keep the peace; informing him that a great British Admiral had arrived
with a thousand men, and that he would assuredly avenge the insult.
Swinhoe informed this officer he had better go on board and explain
matters to the Admiral. The customs official, who had some misgivings
as to the propriety of trusting himself within the power of an incensed
British Admiral, hesitated. He held many consultations with his guests,
and they all appeared to think he ran great risk; but on Swinhoe
assuring him that he could not answer for the consequences if he did
not go and explain, at the end of three-quarters of an hour he figged
himself up with another cup of tea, and, taking his pink-buttoned hat,
with its hanging feather, like a fox’s brush, he resigned himself to
his fate, took leave of his fat friends and descended with Swinhoe into
the _Salamis_ boat.
Seeing him coming, I had only just time to put on uniform and a _war_
expression, when he was ushered on board.
After the usual “chin chin,” we were seated opposite one another,
when he broke out in a nervous, but loud voice to explain matters.
I informed him that it was a very serious offence; that by treaty a
man-of-war was allowed to go to any part of China and have protection;
that the affair at Swatow commenced in the same way by some roughs,
over whom the authorities professed to have no control, throwing
stones, which ended in my having to destroy three large towns, with
great loss of life to the inhabitants.
I told him, in this case, one presumed the Governor was not aware we
were coming, and I should content myself with reporting to Peking the
treatment my officers, while unarmed, had received. I requested the
official to inform the Governor that, when I returned, a life would,
probably, be taken for every stone thrown! He then thanked me for my
forbearance, and, I imagine, was glad when he found himself again with
his tea party.
Having landed our Hankow pilots, failed in getting others for I-Chang,
but as we got our sights, there was no further cause for detention. The
ill feeling by a few roughs was anything but the prevailing one among
the natives, who swarmed alongside to see the ship, bringing vegetables
and sweetmeats for sale.
Two or three boats full of the fishing cormorants amused us amazingly:
they had probably been fishing in the clear waters of the lake. The
birds were perched all over the boat, on the gunnels, on the top of
the covering, or anywhere they could get a footing. Although each had
a small line to one leg, none of them were secured; there were perhaps
twenty in each boat.
The fish they had caught were of various sorts, and, strange to say,
the perch, with its prickly fin, that a pike will refuse to touch, was
not the least common among those in the tub; in fact, while the man
was holding the fish-tub, one of the cormorants shoved his beak in and
seized a large perch. He, in his turn, was seized by the throat and
made to disgorge. I noticed that the man cleverly turned the fish round
in the throat of the cormorant, so that it came out head foremost.
It would have puzzled the cormorant to have got rid of it otherwise,
unless the perch had gone clean through him. I was anxious to ascertain
how the Chinaman prevented the fish passing into the stomach of the
cormorant, and found that it was by a twist of straw tied just tight
enough round the lower part of the neck to hold a fish of about 3/4
lb. When we started I daresay the roughs went home rejoicing, thinking
they had driven us away. We weighed about an hour before sunset, and
turned down the stream to where we had diverged from the Yang-tse, in
which we brought up for the night.
[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]
We weighed at daylight, with Blakiston’s geographical flying survey of
the river as our only guide. This, officers had enlarged to a scale
of one inch to the mile. We managed between 70 and 80 miles the first
day, without accident beyond that of fouling a junk that persisted in
placing itself under our bows, turn which way we would. No great damage
done: a Chinaman was knocked overboard from the junk, but he managed
to take a plank with him. It is so seldom that a Chinaman ever helps a
drowning man, that we stopped a few minutes until we saw him picked up.
There was but little variety in the scenery. One remarkable object was
the skeleton of a large forest tree, noticed also by Blakiston. The
only way to account for its standing alone in a country where fuel is
scarce, is that it must have been struck by lightning, when it would be
considered a thing accursed! If a junk is struck by lightning she is
deserted. Porpoises continued to tumble over, and bottles that floated
past gave indication that we were not the first Europeans up the
Yang-tse.
[Sidenote: Sunday, Mar. 28.]
As if to made up for our good fortune on the previous day, we
frequently touched the bottom. Came to at Shi-show.
[Sidenote: Mar. 29.]
We had gone but a short distance after daylight when we suddenly came
into shoal water. The vessel was quickly stopped and her head put
at another point without success. This operation was repeated four
times, each attempt a little farther towards mid-channel. Whether
the commander was losing patience, and made the last more spitefully
than before, he certainly managed to fix her as firmly as on a rock
on a sandbank about mid-channel. Every attempt to heave her off after
lightening failed; but the _Opossum_ had orders not to proceed farther
than where there was a channel for us, and she must be some way ahead.
A sandbank soon formed on the side opposite to the current, on which
the men walked; but this, our experienced American pilot assured us,
was a matter of course, on grounding on a sandbank in a river with a
rapid current.
The _Faust_ was got ready and preparing for a start to Shi-show for
junks, by which we might lighten ourselves, when the outline of three
Europeans, with the sky for a background, appeared on the edge of
the bank which formed our mud wall. They were from the _Opossum_,
having heard from a native boat of our position. On consultation, it
was decided that our case was merely one that required patience: the
current would take its time, and eventually release us; we might be
twisted about and fresh banks appear, but in the end we should be
floated off, and none the worse.
[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]
Shooting parties landed, bringing on board a tolerable bag: ducks and
teal had not yet taken their departure for their summer abode; several
pheasants, hares, and snipe. We supplied _Opossum_ with what coal she
could stow, while her native pilot held out hopes of taking us up to
I-Chang.
[Sidenote: Mar. 31.]
Shortly before 4 A.M., the rush of the stream chain through the
hawse-hole, and a tremulous motion, informed me that we were off the
bank, while the other bower anchor brought us up in the channel.
It took us the remainder of the day to recover our anchors, stream
chain, and hawsers. On the Sabbath afternoon I invited Risk, my
secretary, to accompany me in a stroll. My feelings were shocked to
see him, on landing, produce a gun and well-stocked bag of cartridges,
while Ponto, a pointer, but a still better retriever, soon came on
the scent of game. Snipe and teal got up in twos and threes, a fair
proportion falling to Risk’s gun. The temptation was too much for
me. Borrowing the gun, while Risk looked on, in the course of a few
moments I returned him an empty cartridge bag. Fortunately he had a few
cartridges left, and was rewarded by a brace or two of pheasants on the
homeward journey. The spring snipe afford splendid shooting, even up to
May, as they work north to their breeding grounds by easy stages. The
birds are nearly double the ordinary size, the result, I presume, of
good feeding in the pâdi-fields. Bags of even fifty couple a gun await
a good shot.
CHAPTER XCVIII
YANG-TSE-KIANG TRIP
[Sidenote: 1869. April 1.]
Pilot on board; we were ready for a further start up the river, but
found I had been imposed on. The pilot had agreed to take us as far as
Shi-show, but had not stated when he could take us on to I-Chang. As
time was the only thing of which I had none to spare, I-Chang had to
be given up. In September and October, I believe the _Rodney_ might
be brought up as far as the first rapids. Swinhoe, the two surveying
officers, Dawson and Palmer, and the two representatives of the Chamber
of Commerce at Shanghai, had to be transferred to the _Faust_ and
_Opossum_, and in exchange we received our navigating Lieutenant,
Taylor. I doubt the Yang-tse being navigable except to a peculiar
class of steamer, adapted to the purpose of ascending the rapids above
I-Chang; but that need not prevent enterprising merchants establishing
themselves, as the Russians have done for years, in the capital and
large cities of the rich province of Se-Chuen; and they might establish
a consul, but it is a question whether our relations with China are
at present such that our consul and traders would feel secure without
the protection of a gunboat. Regret not being able to accompany them
farther, but having so much interesting work before me, ought not to
be greedy.
Having seen our friends take their departure in the _Faust_, we
weighed anchor for our return, and were drifting down broadside on
to the stream without room to go ahead, our stern close to the bank,
which being of mud, I recommended backing into. Her head immediately
paid off down stream, but my advice had been fatal to further rapid
progress. Although no shock was felt, the rudder’s head was twisted and
the rudder unmanageable. On examination, it was found we had to drift
down. I did not like to upset the exploring and surveying expedition
by sending for the _Opossum_, but determined on sending an officer to
Hankow for the _Zebra_ to come up to Hankow. Nothing could have been
more unfortunate than this event, or so completely adapted to upset the
arrangements I had made during the short time I was likely to remain
on the station. The hot season approaching, my anxiety to get to the
northward was great.
My galley, with Mr. Lee, took her departure at about 6 P.M. on a
journey of 220 miles to Hankow, but with a strong current and the
prospects of an occasional lift by sailing.
[Sidenote: Apr. 2.]
Our misfortunes had not come to an end. The morning was fine. We got
under way with the prospects of a good day before us; I had been
calculating with our American pilot whether we should not be close on
our galley at Hankow. We were coming to a part of the river where there
are a succession of islands a-wash, and we ought to have crossed to
the opposite or right bank of the river. _Salamis_ awkward to handle.
The only way the rudder would act was the wrong one; the American
pilot recommended to warp across. The stocks of both bower anchors
had broken. In trying to cross, the ship grounded on the upper side of
the first of the above-named islands. Our hope was in the rise of the
river, while it was possible that the island might rise too! We were
in a fix. Twelve long days were spent getting the ship afloat and to
rights. The bank shifting occasionally, moved the position.
On the 14th the house-boat _Fanny_ arrived from Hankow. Risk and
ourselves went down in her to Hankow, arriving on the 18th. The
_Salamis_ followed three days later, when the flag was rehoisted.
On the 25th the French man-of-war _Flamon_ arrived, saluted us, and
also, with three guns, the late Viceroy’s wife and son on their
departure. Weighed and arrived at Shanghai on the 27th.
[Sidenote: Apr. 30.]
_Salamis_ paid off: recommissioned by Commander Miller.
[Sidenote: May 11.]
Transferred wife and children with Flag-Lieutenant to the care of my
kind friend Raby in the _Adventure_, and steamed down the Woosung.
[Sidenote: May 15.]
Came to off Chefoo, a pretty port with red cliffs and good beaches.
Found Lord Charles Scott in the _Icarus_. Went on in the afternoon and
arrived off Taku in time to pick up our old pilot Bandi. Crossed the
bar of the Peiho with the flood-tide, which we carried for 40 miles,
making with three boilers, for one hour, over 30 miles.
Started again at daylight and got to Tientsin at 9.30, having fouled
but one junk and only touching the bottom once.
[Sidenote: May. 17.]
Mr. Morgan, the Consul, lost no time in making arrangements for our
start for Peking. Our party consisted of Charlie Scott, Miller,
Risk, and Dob Crosbie, my nephew. We had six boats, covered in and
convenient for sleeping, another for cooking, one for servants. A
Commander-in-Chief could not travel without a mandarin, who arranged
everything and saved much trouble and annoyance. Mandarin Chaing Lao
(the fifth of the brothers Chaing) arrived about 6 P.M., and we then
spent the next forty-eight hours going up the Peiho, carried by the
flood through the crowds of junks which nearly block up the river.
The crew were willing enough as long as time was allowed them for
“chow-chow” and smoke. We travelled all night.
[Sidenote: May. 19.]
We might have reached Tung-Chow this evening, but as the gates of
Peking are closed at 6 P.M., we enjoyed a quiet night by stopping short
of the town.
[Sidenote: Peking, May 20.]
Peking.--We had not arrived many minutes before Sir Rutherford’s
stud-groom, with two mounted orderlies, arrived, bringing letters from
His Excellency, stating that horses had been sent on over night. Carts
for our luggage would leave Peking early in the morning. “Don Juan,”
the same horse I rode during our delightful excursion into Mongolia
in 1867, was sent for me. By 9 A.M. we were at the British Legation,
received with the same welcome and hospitality I had experienced when
last here. Conolly took care of Risk; the rest of us were distributed
over the Legation. I was in my old quarters. The baths were luxuries
after our journey, for the water of the Peiho is too muddy for bathing.
Lady Alcock and her daughter joined us at the 12 o’clock breakfast: the
latter a bright, pretty girl, nice to everybody. Those who had not been
in Peking before were shown the sights within reach by Conolly. I had
much to discuss with Sir Rutherford. We agreed that although our late
proceedings had not been approved of by the Foreign Office, what we did
was for the best, and so far from drawing the country into war, the
steps taken were the only ones that averted such a misfortune. Went to
see the Joss that the Sergeant of Minister’s Bodyguard has brought for
me.
* * * * *
I sent a photograph of it to General Knollys. It came home in the
_Rodney_ and is now comfortably housed at Sandringham.
* * * * *
The interpretation of the inscription at the foot of the Joss is as
follows:--
Respectfully made on a lucky day of the tenth month of the
twenty-eighth year of His Majesty K’-ang-Hsi.
In English dates, October or November 1690.
The dinner-party this evening included Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hart. He
holds a high position in the Imperial Customs, and has control over a
larger revenue than was ever held by a foreigner in China, or perhaps
any other country. Hart has the appointing of all the heads for
collecting the foreign duties, as well as of the Harbour Masters and
Commanders of Revenue cruisers. He chooses the positions and raising
of lighthouses as well as the placing of lightships. Two years ago he
applied to me for opinions respecting the proper positions of these
lights, which I directed Commander Brooker to furnish. He took great
pains and wrote several folios of information on the subject.
I was gratified to learn that Hart had, upon my recommendation,
reserved the appointment of Commander of a revenue boat, with £800
a year, for my old friend Claude de Crespigny. Dob Crosbie, who
had kindly undertaken the duties of Master of the Horse to the
Commander-in-Chief, took an early ride with Conolly to the Horse
Bazaar to look for a quiet pony or two. He got hold of a fairish Dun,
which is docile enough, I think, to carry Colin at Yokohama.
[Sidenote: May 23.]
To forenoon church--a modest little building with no appearance of
extra ceremonies.
[Sidenote: May 24.]
Our traps started by early carts for Tung-Chow. The Joss went off on
Saturday. Sir Rutherford directed that it should be carefully covered
with matting for fear any _dévote_ Chinaman should take umbrage at
a god being removed from the Celestial Empire. The mandarin who
accompanied us was anxious to know if I should burn incense before it
when I got home. I have no doubt he thought I was a convert to Buddhism.
The fur merchants had many pretty things, but I selected a small piece
of the sea-otter skin, sufficient to make a muff, and was told it was
valued above sable. I had also some commissions with the silk-seller,
and chose some pieces of maize and other silk, which, as Mr. Pepys
would have said in his diary, “did me much pleasure.”
After _déjeuner_ we took leave of our friends, and mounted our horses
to ride quietly back, much tried by hot wind and clouds of dust. Ice,
however, was plentiful and cheap. Late in the evening our small fleet
was again under way, increased now by two more boats containing the
Joss and sundry carved stones. We had likewise to distribute through
the fleet 8 good-sized cages, containing 16 pheasants from Mongolia for
my friend Tom de Grey. “Crossoptelon Manchuricum” worth “some” should
they reach England alive. Drank Her Majesty’s health _en route_ with
honours.
[Sidenote: Peiho River to Tientsin, May 25.]
This has been a scorching sun with a burning wind, while hot sand
found its way into the interior of our boats, as well as into our eyes
and everything we ate or drank. We managed a walk of two or three
miles, which can always be accomplished without detaining the boats
by watching on the chart (the Admiralty one is very good) where the
river takes an unusual sweep round, when you walk across to the nearest
point. No rain having fallen for three weeks, the ground was hard and
hot; and the natives anticipated a bad harvest.
Among the odds and ends one sees in the shops in Peking, nothing is
more curious, as well as absurd, than the children’s toys. Conolly’s
Chinese servant was put in requisition to make a double collection--one
for our children and the other for them to send by the _Rodney_ to
numerous cousins.
[Sidenote: May 26.]
It was near midnight before we got alongside the _Salamis_.
CHAPTER XCIX
CHEFOO TO JAPAN
[Sidenote: 1869. Flag in _Salamis_, May 27.]
Before starting for Peking, I informed the Consul at Tientsin of
my intention to pay, on my return, my respects to Tchung-How, the
same Governor that was here when I was in the _Dido_, and, with the
exception of the Viceroy at Canton, the most finished Chinese gentleman
I had met. In reply to the Consul’s message, Tchung-How hoped we would
not be late as he had to pray for rain.
Scott attended on my visit to His Excellency, who lived two miles
away on the opposite side of the river. Tchung-How, in addition to
being Governor, is superintendent of trade and junior guardian of
the heir-apparent. Mr. Morgan acted as interpreter. We were received
with the usual courtesy, the Viceroy holding his hands before him and
bending forward at each door. In the inner room we had tea, and then,
in the second, champagne and fruit. Made the visit short, and was glad
to get away; having exchanged into lighter clothing, visited curio
shops, in which there was a sad falling off; dealers in furs and skins
charged double what they did in Peking.
Had still to return the visit of the Russian Consul C. Skottschkoff.
He has a Cossack look about him; his wife, not being got up to receive
visitors, disappeared by an opposite door, but I believe she is pretty
and speaks English. Our Consul and his wife joined us at dinner; she
made herself very agreeable.
[Sidenote: May 28.]
Made an early start with the hopes of crossing the bar in the
afternoon, but the pilot, I believe from the want of his accustomed
cocktail, failed in nerve and muddled us twice; by dark we came to, a
little more than halfway down the Peiho.
[Sidenote: Peiho-Taku Forts, May 29.]
Started early, but not in time to save the tide over the bar; a bore,
am anxious to get north. We brought up close to the celebrated Taku
Forts, that the squadron under Sir James Hope had such good reason
to remember. Some of our officers landed, and no objection was made
to their inspecting forts. They report them as in good repair, guns
mounted and ammunition ready, but nothing heavier than 32-pounders,
evidently taken from our gunboats, having the “V.R.” on them; but these
will be retaken before long!
The European in charge of signal station stated that the garrisons,
formerly thirty or forty in each fort, had within the last month been
increased to 800 soldiers in one and 600 in the other. The coolies
state that all foreigners are shortly to be driven out of China. I
believe they are conceited enough to attempt it. Secret copies of some
of Commissioner Li’s correspondence had reached our Embassy at Peking.
If anything is to take place, I hope it may come off in my time; I am
confident that a war would eventually benefit both sides.
[Sidenote: May 30.]
Read prayers to ship’s company. At 3 P.M. came to at Chefoo. The mail
had arrived from England. Discussions had taken place in Parliament in
which the Duke of Somerset and Lord Clarendon proved how mistaken they
were regarding the state of China. An _apology_ was to be sent to the
Chinese Government for our “mistake” in Formosa!
[Sidenote: Chefoo, May 31.]
Inspected Charles Scott’s _Icarus_; as I expected, found her in perfect
order.
The coaling of the _Salamis_ painfully slow; lazy coolies passing the
coal on board in small baskets holding less than a shovelful each.
Operation completed by 3 P.M. Having laid in a stock of sheep and
poultry, started for Japan.
Markham informed me that a Russian corvette had been at Chefoo with a
live bear and a lion’s skin for me from friend Etholin of Vladivostock.
They went on to Shanghai, where I hope they will be put into the _Juno_.
[Sidenote: June 4.]
Got through the Simonoseki Straits before dark. Once more the inland
sea; at no time of the year can it look more beautiful; crops ripening
and the green grass and trees in all the freshness of spring. At 4.30
entered the far-famed whirlpool passage, but it was time of neap tides
and the flood was within an hour of its making, which it does two hours
after high water. It required close watching and quick helm to prevent
being slewed broadside on by the “Chow-Chow” water. It is safest to
pass through with the current.
[Sidenote: Yokohama, June 6.]
By daylight we were standing into the Bay of Yedo; _Rodney_, _Ocean_,
_Adventure_, and _Cormorant_ made their numbers. We passed under the
stern of the old _Rodney_, where the band and officers were on the poop
to welcome the old Chief. Steamed ahead of the stately _Ocean_ and
came to before 8 A.M. Found the wife and children well and happy at
the Legation House. Sir Harry Parkes absent in Yedo, but everything
done to make us feel at home. Denison had come out by mail, at his own
expense, to take command of _Cormorant_, as her paying-off was to be
here. Flag hoisted on board _Rodney_.
[Sidenote: Flag in _Rodney_, June 7.]
The French commodore and captains, as well as Dutch and American senior
officers, visited _Rodney_. All the heads of departments had already
visited, and been attentive to the wife on her arrival.
[Sidenote: June 8.]
Accompanied by Heneage, returned calls of the French, American, and
Netherlands commanders; the two former giving me a personal salute.
The small arms men and marines from _Rodney_ and _Ocean_, 4047 tons,
Captain Stanhope, landed and went through their evolutions, to the
admiration of Colonel Norman of the 9th Regiment (The Norfolk). The
field-pieces were beautifully worked. I was mounted on Sir Harry
Parkes’s charger, which, however, refused to stand fire. I have had the
house built snug and substantial, easy to be got rid of! My ponies Tiu
and Ko in the Legation stable, where the poor old grey given me by Mrs.
Fitzroy is dying.
[Sidenote: June 10.]
Pouring with rain and a gale blowing. We dined with the Marshalls,
plodding there in chairs, ankle deep in mud. The Normans, Mrs. Alt,
Adams, Stanhope, and Helen were of the party; the dinner, as usual,
excellent, wines to match. Drank the health of Georgie West, her
birthday.
[Sidenote: June 11.]
Inspected _Ocean_. It is difficult to imagine a cleaner or more perfect
man-of-war. Hard lines, the depriving me of my flagship! Dined with the
Normans in their barrack hut; every exertion made by kind hostess to
make us enjoy our visit, in which she perfectly succeeded. At the door
on way home met a youngster with our mail from England.
[Sidenote: Yokohama.]
In noting events it is odd I should have omitted the severest shock
of earthquake that I had experienced. It occurred at 4 P.M. on Monday.
I was sitting at the Legation talking with Risk. The house shook
violently for a quarter of a minute, and after the lapse of a few
seconds went on again, with sounds of cracking and groaning. Keppel
Garnier was with May at the Marshalls: the bells rang, the house
cracked, and the broken mortar was heard tumbling inside the walls.
Mrs. Marshall seized her baby, and Garnier, May; both rushed out on to
the lawn; raining hard. At the Club, billiard balls rolled about, and
the Japs deserted the house.
The mail did not bring much important news. It was in contemplation
at the Admiralty to submit the names of certain Admirals for the
distinction of Grand Cross of the Bath on Her Majesty’s birthday.
Friend Beauchamp Seymour informs me that, owing to the Commodore not
waiting for the Viceroy’s contingent for the attack on the villages at
Swatow, my name is not to be sent in!
Inspected _Cormorant_, a fit pendant to the _Ocean_. Poor Brand has
earned his promotion, if the order of his ship is any criterion.
[Sidenote: June 14.]
Early telegraph this morning from _Rodney_: “Many happy returns of the
day to Commander-in-Chief” from captain and officers. Signalled back
“Many and grateful thanks.” Parkes arrived in evening, having ridden
from Yedo. An 8.30 dinner: glad to see my friend so well. Most of the
naval officers and other friends called in the course of the day to
congratulate me on my natal day.
[Sidenote: June 16.]
Having returned all garrison calls, visited the Foreign Ministers
yesterday. The American Minister, a General, had read the name of
his successor--the only intimation that he was to be relieved. How
pleasantly governments do things! Parkes is the only minister who has
courage enough to take up his residence among these turbulent people!
Yesterday, having arranged with Parkes to go to Yedo with him, found a
horse and escort waiting for me at Kanagava. Without hurrying, caught
up Sir Harry at a half-way tea-house. We were ferried over the River
Rokugo. The supports for a bridge were standing, one having been built
last year for the Mikado, who was on his way from Osaka to Yedo, and
afterwards pulled down, so that no one else could take advantage of it.
We were met at the tea-house by Mr. Sibbald, interpreter, and young
Hodges, studying to become one; and attended by a mounted escort from
Yedo, as unlike cavalry soldiers as a feminine dress and diminutive
appearance could make them. The present Legation, although not large,
is most pleasantly situated on high ground, with a flag-staff on which
the flag of _Perfide Albion_ may be seen from every part of Yedo!
[Sidenote: Yedo, June 18.]
We found Bertram Mitford delightfully situated on another eminence
within a few minutes’ walk, while Adams had taken possession of the
snug little house formerly occupied by Mitford. A small cemetery
separating the two--most convenient for the joint mess.
Sibbald came in during the evening; he had accompanied the Tycoon’s
younger brother in his travels and visited with him most of the Courts
of Europe. He described the young Jap as intelligent and shrewd in
his remarks, although he got occasionally bored by over-sightseeing.
In answer to one of his questions why our ladies exposed so much of
their persons in evening dress, he was told, “Out of compliment to
His Highness”; on which he supposed if his Emperor had been there they
would have come naked! Nor could he understand high personages dancing:
a performance in his country he paid people for doing.
Nothing can be cleaner, prettier, or nicer than these Jap houses for
summer residences. The house at Yokohama, engrossing all the best
furniture, the accommodation here assumed a most agreeable sort of
“roughing it.” A party on horseback, and two carriages, in one of which
Parkes drove my wife, went to see the tombs of the Shogoons (so Mitford
spells what we pronounce Tycoon, and he is sure to be right) at Zôôji,
at Shiba, the castle, and other sights in Yedo, which I, fancying I had
seen before, did not join, preferring the cool of the pretty grounds
about the Legation.
[Sidenote: June 21.]
Have some two days’ back journal to write up. In the afternoon news
reached us of the loss of the _Haya Maro_, a fine steamer bound to
Osaka, which seems to have struck on the same rock as the _Nepaul_
about two years ago, situated about 200 yards to the eastward of the
well-known Plymouth rocks. She was going at the rate of 14 knots, her
bottom was torn out and she went down head foremost in less than five
minutes in 40 fathoms water. The only excuse for cutting the point so
close was to shorten the distance a cable’s length, the captain having
made a bet he would accomplish the voyage to Osaka in thirty hours.
Among the twenty-one lives lost was an old China friend, Margesson, who
dined with us only a week ago. Poor fellow! after service as a merchant
for some twenty-eight years, he was on his way home to enjoy the fruits
of his labours.
Our dinner party included Hodges, Doctors Sibly and Willes. Willes had
taken service with the Japanese. Although he frequently attended those
connected with the Court, he had never been allowed near the Mikado.
In fact, even now, if necessary to feel the Imperial pulse, a piece of
tape is fastened to the wrist and the end is passed through a hole in
the wall into the adjoining room when the doctor approaches, beating
the mats with his head!
The next day (20th) the launch started, soon after high water, with the
same party she had brought up, while we waited until Sir Harry Parkes
was ready. I was mounted on the Minister’s pet grey Arab charger.
Mitford kindly accompanied me part of the way, and cautioned me to be
careful of said charger, he having been down once, and getting shaky on
his legs. We pulled up by the roadside. There we found a square plot
fenced round as sacred, the Mikado having condescended to alight on
that place. In another direction a rustic bridge was stopped up, the
Imperial foot having passed over it.
[Sidenote: Rokugo, Japan, to Yokohama.]
The carriage with Parkes and my wife reached the ferry at Rokugo just
as I got to the other side. The river is called Tama Gawa (jewel
river). We both nearly came to grief; in spite of all Mitford’s caution
and my care, the beautiful grey fell, as if shot, in the streets
of Yokohama, cutting both knees. Those only who have ridden their
friends’ favourite horse, with a similar catastrophe, can understand
my feelings. When I broke the fact to Sir Harry, instead of wishing
that it had been my neck instead of his horse’s knees, he merely “hoped
I had escaped unhurt.” In the carriage they had had a narrow escape:
one of the ponies, a bumptious beast, that never neared another animal
without apparently wishing to eat it, stopped on meeting a carriage
that had pulled up on the narrow raised causeway, on both sides of
which there is a drop of some 12 feet into the sea, and that made still
more unpleasant by short piles thickly driven in. The beast screamed
and backed in spite of the whip, which was dropped into him smartly by
the Minister. The mounted orderlies saw the danger. One seized my wife,
and the other got hold of the ponies’ heads, only just in time; the
adventure did not improve my wife’s nerves. They reached the Legation
just before me, having taken a different road.
Sunday was the anniversary of the Queen’s Accession, and in church we
had the service appointed for that event, finishing with “God save the
Queen.” Not at all bad for Yokohama.
The _Dupleix_, with our friend Du Petit Thours, went out of harbour as
I rode in on Saturday, along the Tikado, and I was much disappointed at
not seeing any notice taken of him when the _Dupleix_ passed our ships,
she being homeward bound, while their kindness and hospitality to Harry
Stephenson and the wrecked crew of the _Rattler_ in September last was
fresh in our memories.
I learned afterwards that, having the French prisoners on board who had
led on and then deserted the rebels, Du Petit Thours was afraid that a
wrong construction might be put on our cheers, and wrote to Stanhope,
hoping that we should not take any notice of him. We never met so good
a Frenchman or a better man.
_Opossum_ returned from expedition up Yang-tse. A placard had been
stuck up in I-Chang offering rewards for her capture, as well as others
for the heads of the captain or crew!
CHAPTER C
THE CHINA COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1869. Yokohama, June 23.]
Some man remarked that having lost half an hour on coming into the
world, he was never afterwards able to make up the lost time. My
journal has got three days behind, and I feel that I shall not be able
to make it up. This is an attempt. My temper, too, ruffled by a vet
who, I believe, poisoned Mrs. Fitzroy’s grey pony.
[Sidenote: June 24.]
The American Admiral arrived on the 21st and a Prussian corvette on
the 22nd, when much saluting of three admirals with their returns took
place. Hakodati invested, but still holding out. Yesterday commenced
housekeeping on our own account, obtaining our hospitable host’s
permission. Children taking kindly to a day governess after desperate
opposition by Colin. Blowing too hard to return calls afloat. Called on
the Netherlands Consul, who was entertaining a party of twenty Dutchmen
who claimed me as a countryman, and with pleasure we liquored up in
sweet champagne. Colin enjoying the substantials.
[Sidenote: June 27.]
On starting for church this morning, the card of Don José de Grandaria,
ex-Captain-General of the Philippines, was put into my hand. He
had arrived by the American mail _en route_ for Europe, _viâ_ San
Francisco. Good fellow that he is, he came to luncheon, and if
possible will dine; glad of an opportunity of returning a trifle of
his hospitality. News from Hakodadi of the capture of the town by the
Imperialist troops and total destruction by explosives of two of Kerair
ships. They, however, still hold the forts.
[Sidenote: June 29.]
Mounted Colin on the pony “Ko” and gave him his first lesson in riding.
[Sidenote: June 30.]
Had the _Rodney’s_ steam launch ready yesterday evening to convey my
good friend, the Governor of Manila, on board the mail steamer. We
first became acquainted in 1837 when he was Governor of Fernando Po.
[Sidenote: July 4.]
The shock of an earthquake was felt about 1 A.M. Clearing up in
the afternoon, Colin mounted his pony before I had got hold of the
tow-rope. Colin touched him with the whip to close with me. The pony,
being fresh, gave a jump and a kick, placing the little man on what he
called his “bob” on the road, and scampered up His Excellency’s soft
turf.
Soon after midnight a sensation was caused by the report of firearms.
Guards were turned out. Sir Harry Parkes saddled, ordered his escort,
and scouts were sent into the town to ascertain the cause. It proved to
be a few Americans sitting up late to usher in the anniversary of their
nation’s Independence.
[Sidenote: July 5.]
The French mail brought news of my promotion. The flag was shifted to
the main and saluted, all foreign men-of-war following suit. Parkes off
for Yedo. He is indeed a zealous, active Minister. The anniversary of
American Independence is to be kept to-day. Our ships are dressed with
flags; the stars and stripes will be saluted at noon by a royal salute.
Hear that our friend Mrs. Alt, who took such care of Algie Heneage and
myself at Nagasaki when we were ill, has had a bad fall from her pony,
which fell with her over the edge of a bank, a drop of some fifteen
feet, kicking her twice in the chest. Called to inquire, and found Mrs.
Alt in the garden. Her ribs were dented, not broken.
[Illustration: _Mrs. Alt._]
[Sidenote: July 7.]
The French mail brought Challier, the successor to Commodore Jones.
Challier commanded the _Newton_ when I had _St. Jean d’Acre_ in the
Tagus. Am left the senior and oldest of all the Naval Commanders on the
station. Stanhope, Crossman, and self inspected yesterday afresh the
site of the Naval Hospital, the erection of which has now been four
years in contemplation by the Admiralty.
The advantages and saving to the country in money, as well as in
transport of invalids, who could be easily cured in this fine climate,
has been admitted from the beginning. Then again, the idea that the
authorities at home should know better the style of building required
than those on the spot has been the cause of the interchange of plans
and surveys. Plans sent out not suitable to the climate, and again each
successive Government not having the courage to insert the cost in the
naval estimates, the expense now, if the hospital is ever built, will
be more than double what it would have been had it been erected when
its advantages and economy were first acknowledged.
[Sidenote: July 8.]
To luncheon yesterday on board _Ocean_: everything perfect, in
Stanhope’s usual style. Afterwards to _Rodney_, taking children. She
being ordered home, had all sorts of live animals. Among them were two
bears, who had the run of the ship. In the summer months hammocks were
little used; the bears lay where they liked, the men using them as
pillows. Each bear would accommodate ten or a dozen at a time. By day
they were all over the place, generally aloft, in the tops or along the
yards, from which they could see every arrival on board.
My daughter was a small four-year-old. While on the poop she found
herself rolling along the deck in the embrace of a bear she had not
before seen. Of course she was immediately released. She knew not what
fear was. The next moment she had seized one of the mizzentopmast
broomsticks, and the bear made the best of his way aloft. He was a
young Siberian given me by Etholin, brought here by the _Juno_ from
Hong Kong; by which ship friend Hugh Low sent us four Sulu pearls.
[Sidenote: July 10.]
My servant, Ah Ho’s right eye black and swollen, painted so, not for
the first time, by my man Fuller--who goes!
A boat-race came off on Saturday between the United States _Iroquois_
and _Ocean_. _Iroquois_ held the challenge cock they had won from our
_Zebra_, and published some tall talk in Yokohama papers. The American
boat was a double-banked whaler, the _Ocean’s_ a twelve-oared cutter.
A fresh breeze. Betting in favour of the American boat, on which some
$1500 had been invested. The American officers had been on board
_Ocean_ with their bag the evening before, and remained until every
dollar they brought was covered.
Never was such an example: the course five miles. The first three
strokes sent the _Ocean_ a length ahead, which advantage they kept,
winning by five minutes. Law, the Commander of _Iroquois_, guessed he
would have to resign the “chicken” he had taken such care of.
[Sidenote: July 13.]
Wrote Cooper Key asking him to appoint Gye Gunnery-Lieutenant of
_Ocean_ on recommission.
[Sidenote: July 14.]
Was introduced to the new bear, a cub resembling the older one. Band
played at Jardine’s. Colin’s pony evinced his dislike to Europeans by
kicking one of the escort, then Webb, and also trying it with me. Got
on his back and quieted him, on the strength of which he afterwards
kicked one of Herbert Smith’s servants, and near home lifted up his
heels without unseating the small Colin. Parkes returned from Yedo; had
Kassim and the curry cook to let him know what a good curry was.
[Sidenote: July 20.]
On Sunday we attended divine service on board _Rodney_ and lunched with
Algie Heneage. Yesterday was an eventful one in my small way. Inspected
the old _Rodney_ for last time. Had a farewell luncheon in the
ward-room. Was absent in _Salamis_ eighteen months out of two years.
Hoped to have had the last year on board _Rodney_ when this unfair
order comes to send her home.
[Sidenote: July 21.]
Band playing at Jardine’s. M‘Hardy, Nepean, and Heneage to dine. While
enjoying cigars the report of a gun from seaward, followed by a couple
of rockets, announced arrival of English mail. Promotion of mates in
_Rodney_. Bath in all its degrees conferred. I passed over for the
G.C.B. Death of my old Chief in Crimea, Charles Freemantle, has placed
me at the head of the Vice.
[Sidenote: July 25.]
Got out in the evening yesterday for a ride with Colin. Had Algie
Heneage to dinner, Bamber, Woodruffe, Ogle, and Simley. As _Cormorant_
was going to the northward, made her signal to weigh and take us in
tow. As we got away, _Ocean_ manned rigging and yards to the very
trucks. They used aloft, with pretty effect, small boat flags, and gave
three hearty cheers to the parting ship, such as Britishers only give.
The American Admiral and Italian ships likewise gave parting cheers.
After luncheon with Algie Heneage, some four miles from the anchorage
we bade the old _Rodney_ farewell.
It is seldom that relationship has the same hold on a sailor’s
affections as that of a shipmate. They manned the rigging and repeated
hearty parting cheers. After we had quitted her, the flag was
transferred to _Ocean_ and saluted by _Rodney_. French mail in. Article
in _Saturday Review_, May 29, on “English Policy” in China refers to
the actions of Gurdon and Domville at Swatow and Formosa last year.
Local papers defend my policy.
CHAPTER CI
THE CHINA COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1869. Flag in _Ocean_, July 31.]
Our band played on the Bund, no better in the Far East! Japs making
great preparations to receive the Duke of Edinburgh.
[Sidenote: Yokohama, Aug. 2.]
Parkes and M‘Lay come to dine. Much talk on China affairs; few people
better able to form an opinion than our two guests. All agreed how
lamentably misinformed our Government is.
[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]
Fine weather at last. Madame and Mademoiselle Bertrand, Parkes, and
Newton dined with us. In the night we were disturbed by a row in the
domestic department. A big negro caulker had been visiting in the
village, and returned at 3 A.M., having been rolled in the mud a
foot deep. He made for the kitchen, where his appearance terrified
the Chinese cook, who gave the alarm of thieves. On the animal being
removed to his ship, he admitted to its having been caused by keeping
low company, as if there could be anything lower than himself. He had
affected while on board a religious turn of mind.
_Sylvia_ arrived yesterday, and Brooker, who called this morning,
proposed a party on board his ship to visit “Die Boots.”
[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]
Starting at an early hour to go on board _Sylvia_, was unable to finish
remarks for preceding day. On 4th, while at dinner, a gun announced
the arrival of English mail. Having seen telegrams in both American
and French up to 3rd July, my mind was set at rest about chance of
promotion and relief, the mail bringing news up to June 18, which
pronounced “Admirals Firm.” The last thing that caught my eye was a
small envelope with “_Telegraph_” in the corner, which sure enough
contained all that I had been dreading for a year. It was from the
Admiralty, July 3, and commenced with, “You are promoted”: it ordered
me to Singapore to meet my relief, who would be there on September 3.
In fact, I was to go tearing down against the monsoon in _Salamis_,
with her worn-out boilers, when my relief could come up in half the
time, before the wind; and then I was to have the pleasure of crossing
the Red Sea in the month of September.
As there are two routes, and no detriment to the Service thereby,
I determined on waiting at Yokohama. The time has come at last, my
reign nearly over, and I have no cause to complain; if it were not for
the unjust withholding the G.C.B., I should proceed on my way home
rejoicing.
We got under way yesterday in the _Sylvia_ at 10 A.M. Our party
consisted of Madame and Mademoiselle Bertrand, Raby, Loreiro, Miller,
and ourselves; everything successful but the weather, which continued
rainy and misty. We anchored off the bay at 11, and having made an
excellent breakfast, proceeded in steam launch. Another boat brought
the ladies’ chairs, coolies, and those who liked to come.
The channel, except at high water, when you can make a straight course,
is difficult. However, with the assistance of a native pilot, we got
into the tea-house at Kanasawa without accident, beyond occasionally
touching the bottom. In less than a quarter of an hour, pedestrians,
horsemen (our ponies had been sent on early from Yokohama), and chairs
were fairly under way.
The scenery beautiful, and in spite of the weather, and slow progress
of chairs over slippery ground, everybody was cheery, Madame Bertrand
walking the whole seven miles. “Die Boots” was there in all his
grandeur, and a striking sight it is. Since I saw it two years ago, the
inside has been desecrated with the usual Anglo-Saxon names; in fact,
there is a native who makes a small fortune by attending with a ladder,
brush, and red paint for all those who wish to immortalize their
lady-love’s or their own interesting names!
Our coolies had to “chow-chow,” and the afternoon was far advanced
before we were on our return. The slippery paths made progress so slow
that it was dark by the time we reached our boats; the tide, although
falling, was still high, and with the help of our natives and the ship
in the offing well lighted, we got safely on board, but too late to be
back in time to entertain Sir Harry, who had promised to dine with us.
We partook of Brooker’s hospitable tea, at which we made an excellent
_dinner_. The _Sylvia_ under way anchored at 10.30. By 11.30 we were at
home; by 12.30 at midnight we were well shaken by an earthquake!
[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]
_Pearl_, 21, corvette, Captain John F. Ross, arrived under sail from
Hakodadi. Ross, Boxer, and Miller dined with us. Inspected _Sylvia_, in
very nice order. Flag hoisted at 8 A.M.
[Sidenote: Aug. 13.]
Rougemont, “First” of _Ocean_, came in evening full of distress at a
boat full of officers having been missing for two days, and without
grub. Active and energetic steps immediately taken by Parkes: the
Consular Establishment and whole escort put in motion, the Japanese
Government despatching couriers by sea and land. It appeared afterwards
that Rougemont had been living with Beato, and forgot that the missing
might have returned in his absence from the ship, which, in fact, they
had, and the whole of them had well fed and turned in an hour before
this smart “First” gave this unnecessary alarm. Parkes indignant, and
small blame to him.
[Sidenote: Aug. 15.]
Sabbath, and piping hot! We were enlivened by a royal salute in honour
of the birthday of the Emperor Napoleon III., fired by the French ships
in harbour.
[Sidenote: Aug. 17.]
Hot weather appears to have set in. The greatest nuisance one has to
contend with by day, as well as by night, are the mosquitoes.
[Sidenote: Aug. 19.]
Our band played at Jardine’s on the afternoon of 17th, where I went to
meet our letters on their landing from _Salamis_. Ascertained that the
death of Admiral Bowles was the cause of my promotion. A telegram from
Admiralty extending the time that I should meet my relief at Singapore
to the 19th September. If they had taken that date into consideration
at first, I might have been down there in time, but now the 19th will
be as inconvenient as the 3rd September was a fortnight ago. The
telegram also contained directions to assemble as large a naval force
as practicable to be placed under Stanhope, but its destination could
not be made out. No public news. Admiralty permission given to dispense
with _razors!_ for which I am sorry.
The death of Lieutenant Kent of the _Avon_ enabled me to promote
Hammet (from _Rodney_), whose uncle was killed in the trenches before
Sevastopol. Yesterday at 10 A.M. inspected _Adventure_; clean and
wholesome.
[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]
Threatening weather: got wet through in our ride. Wilkinsons and Adams
dined with us yesterday. Slight earthquake in afternoon. This morning a
typhoon.
[Sidenote: Sunday, Aug. 22.]
The typhoon was sharp and short, but did considerable damage.
Marshall’s house nearly unroofed. Lindo’s fanciful cottage blown down.
Verandahs round soldiers’ huts blown up. American steamer, adrift,
stove in _Salamis’s_ bows, carried away _Sylvia’s_ bowsprit, and did
much more damage of less interest to me. Band played on the bluff.
[Sidenote: Aug. 23.]
Brooding over my wrongs and the want of consideration on the part of my
friends the Admiralty in ordering me to Singapore against the monsoon,
to give up the command to a successor and my junior, when he might so
much more easily come up to me at a saving of £1700 worth of fuel!
Another hot day.
[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]
Mail off this morning; a lull now till the arrival of the _Galatea_,
overdue. Phelps dined with us yesterday: he the manager of the Pacific
Mail Company; she “raised” and in heart a Southerner; he ditto, but
both loyal. The Scotts of 10th Regiment also dined: she the daughter of
the once charming Caroline Stoll, who married, first Thompson, father
of Mrs. Scott, secondly Bob Tryon: she died soon after.
[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]
Made an attempt yesterday in Curio Street: disappointed in the trip
I had promised myself with the Duke of Edinburgh to Peking; have
now the difficulty of executing two ladies’ commissions for curios
in Japan, where they are now not only scarce, but enormously dear.
Our dinner-party included Dr. Hofferman, Staff-Inspector-General of
Military Hospitals, Maxwell, Bosman, and Leman.
[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]
Sorely tempted yesterday to buy two nietschkies, but prices are 500 per
cent above what they used to be. Got a ride with my boy, who begins to
move faster than the Betto who leads the pony can stand. French mail
arrived this morning, bringing French Admiral.
[Sidenote: Aug. 27.]
Into Curio Street again! Could not resist two of the best nietschkies I
have seen, but at the highest price. In the evening we got the contents
of French mail. An Admiral Seymour dead. Hope it is not my friend
Henry, although news by last mail announced his being ill. _Penelope_
to be new flagship. Hewitt to be Captain. This morning returned new
French Admiral’s visit; also looked up my old friend the American
Admiral Rowan, in whose cabin I saw my photograph framed.
[Sidenote: Aug. 30.]
Intended to have recorded passing events after church yesterday, but on
coming out, the _Galatea_ was reported coming in (29).
[Sidenote: Aug. 30.]
Our Saturday dinner-party included Major and Mr. Lucas, Gambier
(_Sylvia_), and Stanhope. I was restless during the night, which, added
to occasional strange noises, sent me cruising about the house with my
revolver. Having seen the orderly on the alert, I placed the revolver
on the dressing-table, which stood between the entrance to the bathroom
and the side of the bed where I slept, close at hand, and again turned
in. On awakening, found some expert thief had entered by the bathroom
window, left open for air, and had not only abstracted three pairs of
my wife’s boots, but, by way of adding insult to injury, the rascal
appropriated my revolver and the clothes of my Flag-Lieutenant.
Several Japs had been seen about the grounds during the night by the
orderlies, but in the unfinished state of outbuildings and grounds they
had many ways of escape. A small ladder used by the builders was found
placed against the bathroom windows, by which the rogue or rogues had
entered.
After luncheon yesterday, Parkes accompanied me on board _Ocean_,
where I went to receive the Captain of the _Galatea_; afterwards went
unofficially on board _Galatea_ to talk over arrangements for landing,
etc. H.R.H. looking well, after his wound at Sydney, and courteous,
as he well knows how to be. We left him to read the contents of three
mails.
Parkes and Stanhope dined with us, and made all sorts of arrangements,
which were upset by His Royal Highness this morning. At 11
A.M. he landed at the bottom of the grounds to let me know his
plans. Accompanied the Prince to call on Colonel Norman, Acting
Commander-in-Chief, and found Mrs. Norman.
On arrival of the _Galatea_, I was astonished to find His Royal
Highness and crew clean-shaved, H.R.H. not having heard of the
Admiralty permission to grow beards, the order having reached Yokohama
a few days previous to his arrival--a proof of H.R.H.’s strict idea
of discipline, although he knew very well that I should not have
interfered with the internal discipline of his ship.
CHAPTER CII
CLOSE OF CHINA COMMAND
[Sidenote: 1869. Yedo, Sept. 1.]
Here I am in the Mikado’s summer palace at Yedo. Invited by H.R.H. the
Duke of Edinburgh, at whose disposal this delightful residence was
placed but yesterday. Proceedings have first to be recorded. The day
commenced with heavy rain, which continued, but the Duke had decided on
hoisting the royal standard at 8 A.M., landing in state, and holding
a levée for Britishers and Foreign Ministers at the Legation at 11.
Having previously gone on board and been saluted by all the men-of-war
present at 10.30, we left the _Galatea_ in the Prince’s barge. Yards
manned and another royal salute.
H.R.H. was received on landing by a guard from the 10th regiment,
another of French marines, while the road was lined up to the Legation
by the 10th and Japs together: contrast good. The Prince was cheered
from the yards of his own ship on leaving, which was repeated by such
ships as he passed in his way. Had the weather been anything but rainy,
the whole thing would have had a grand effect. After the levée we had
luncheon at the Legation, then the Prince, putting on shooting jacket
and _Rodney_ hat, proposed a walk in Curio Street. H.R.H. having
visited my wife, we mounted ponies and had a very fair inspection;
many things were selected and put aside for future bargainings.
[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]
I was on board _Galatea_ by 9 A.M. At 10 we started in steam launch
for Kanagawa, where Parkes had sent his carriages and mounted escort.
In the first were H.R.H., Parkes, myself, and Mitford (latter told
off expressly for attendance on the Prince); the other brought Elliot
Yorke, Haig, and Adams.
Weather fine, journey agreeable, the only _contretemps_ being the
springs of our vehicle breaking down and causing us twice to alight for
repairs; but the Japanese roads, however good they may have been, are
not quite prepared for the wheel traffic now existing between Yedo and
Yokohama. We were preceded the whole way by a mounted escort of Japs,
while innumerable small guards turned out and presented arms after
their own demi-French instruction.
At the Palace the Duke was received by a Prince, and the party
appointed by the Japanese Government to attend His Royal Highness. No
place could have been better adapted. Suites of apartments completely
furnished in European style, while the walls were covered with
curiously painted Japanese paper. A guard of twenty-five marines had
arrived before us. Our Royal Marine guard was confronted by a similar
number of Japs, who formerly belonged to the Tycoon, and had been well
drilled by the French. In the Prince’s sitting-room was a magnificent
bronze vase covered with beautifully executed birds, dragons, etc.,
one of the presents from the Mikado. After luncheon Minwaji-no-Mia, a
Prince of the Royal blood, paid a visit. Not much to be done in the
afternoon. The Legation retired to their respective houses. We strolled
through the pretty, well-kept grounds, made to look as little formal
and like nature as possible. The Prince is showing me every kindness
and consideration, selecting a room next that occupied by himself,
consulting me as to costume for dinner. And on my suggesting round
jackets as the coolest, he appeared in one, with gold lace trousers,
which appeared to be the mess dress of _Galatea_. Dinner quiet, and
good coffee, the best I have tasted. The Prince chatted with me long
after dinner, and seemed really anxious for advice as to his future
movements, hoping I would give him concise orders while within the
limits of the station, so I sent a despatch for Risk and Dawson that we
might arrange the same.
I waited an opportunity to ask His Royal Highness about his narrow
escape at Sydney; he kindly showed me the wound at the right of the
spine--a hole into which I could thrust the end of my little finger.
Among the things sent yesterday were ten magnificent volumes of about
14 ins. square by 4 ins. deep, containing coloured pictures--in fact, a
complete history of Japan, a thing I believe no money could purchase.
In front of the Prince’s window were large China bowls containing
beautiful broad-tailed specimens of goldfish. Other China bowls, ranged
on stands, contained hundreds of flowers, dwarfed trees, etc., all of
which His Royal Highness was to consider his own.
[Sidenote: Palace of the Mikado, Japan, Sept. 3.]
It rained all yesterday. In the afternoon we managed to get over to a
covered-in place within the Palace grounds to see a combat of swords
and spears. Two at a time appeared on the platform; the swords were of
bamboo. The practice was interesting enough; heavy blows and thrusts
were exchanged. An umpire decided when the fatal blow or thrust had
been delivered. The head was protected by helmet and steel masks.
Armour on the left side, as far down as the waist.
After bowing to the audience, the combatants saluted one another: on
the same principle, I suppose, as our antagonists in the prize-ring
shake hands before punching one another’s heads. When the supposed
fatal blow was given, the vanquished walked off, while the victor
uncovered his head and “kow towed” to H.R.H. The combats with long
spears were conducted on same principle. The men were selected from the
Japanese guard.
The Minister said that had he educated the warriors of different
Daimios they would be sure to fight it out afterwards to the death
if different chiefs’ followers met. Risk came up in steam launch to
arrange a revised route for _Galatea_, she being three weeks behind
time. Having duly considered the whole, and what Kellett might have
had to say had he not been pitched on his head before leaving England,
which delayed his arrival, we were of opinion that I should give up the
San Francisco route, accompany the Prince to Peking, meet my successor
at Hong Kong or Singapore, and telegraph to the Board accordingly.
The forenoon continued rainy. After luncheon a man of Mitford’s came
with curios--apparently a bundle of rubbish; there were, however, two
swords, which Mitford pronounced to be excellent because the owner
had names written, which he pronounced to be certificates of their
manufacture by an extinct artist. The Prince paid some £80, and to my
mind there is no proof that he was not taken in, and Mitford too.
[Sidenote: Yedo.]
We rode, a largish party, to see the tombs of the Tycoons, situated in
the midst of a well-wooded garden or park. The most beautiful temples
and elaborate carvings of any I have seen. We were allowed to inspect
everything, being in company of His Royal Highness.
On reaching home we found mats before the door and preparations for
jugglers: wonderfully clever; and here, as in other parts of the world,
there was music, such as it is, with the usual buffoon or clown.
To-morrow we are to have a procession and the Prince’s visit to the
Mikado, which we look forward to as rather a bore.
[Sidenote: Sept. 4.]
One of the Japanese princes, Parkes, and Adams joined the dinner last
night. After that we had conjurors; the pretty butterfly trick was
beautifully performed. Yesterday Aitkin missed a small ivory-handled
clasp-knife from my dressing-table, and this morning my gold watch,
which I have had for forty years, and which I had given to my dear boy,
has disappeared--I think while I was taking my bath.
[Sidenote: Sept. 5.]
I put the case of theft into Mitford’s hands, who, having engaged the
servants, offered to guarantee their honesty with his life, or rather
undergo torture on the wheel if any act of dishonesty could be brought
against any one of them. However, before breakfast was announced, the
culprit was discovered to be the Japanese lamp-trimmer, and not only
was my watch restored, but knives, gold rings, and money belonging to
others were found in his possession. The only difficulty now will be to
save the unfortunate wretch from decapitation. A guard of fifty marines
having been landed from the _Adventure_, we had a late breakfast, and
with the Legation mounted escort, a Jap ditto, and streets lined in a
way, we proceeded in two carriages for the Mikado’s residence within
the moat and castle walls.
[Sidenote: Sept. 6.]
The Prince, Parkes, and self were the principal persons, and, in
fact, the only ones admitted into the same room as His Majesty. No
presentations took place and everything was as formal as need be, but
exceedingly curious. A more friendly meeting took place afterwards
at a small bungalow in the pleasure grounds of the castle, which are
very extensive. Mitford acted as interpreter, and the exclusiveness
surrounding the Mikado’s person was broken through. The Prince
presented him with a beautiful gold box, on the lid of which a
miniature of himself was set in diamonds.
After dinner on Saturday (4th) we had theatricals in the evening.
Performers all women; acting supposed to be very good, and the greatest
decorum preserved throughout. Yesterday morning we witnessed a game of
cup and ball on a large scale, which took place on a plot of ground
railed off for the occasion. A number of horsemen, about eight on each
side, compete in throwing the greatest number of balls through a hole
in a planking at the end of the ground, which is about two hundred
yards in length by twenty broad. The balls are red and white. The
riders are distinguished by their costume, which is very picturesque.
Each man is armed with a staff of bamboo, about five feet long, at
the end of which is a sort of cup, by which they manage to pick up
the balls, which are, in the first place, thrown on the ground on the
opposite end from the board in which the hole is.
They then ride towards it and throw the ball at the hole and go back
for another. The balls bound back within the enclosed ground, and are
again picked up. The saddle is never quitted. They jostle one another,
knock the balls from each other’s staffs, pick up and throw altogether
away the balls of their adversaries. A signal from behind points out
the number and colour of the balls that have passed through the hole.
The next thing was the interior of a great Daimio’s Palace and to
be entertained in regular Japanese fashion. The house of the Daimio
selected for the occasion belonged to a Japanese noble whose income is
estimated at £800,000 a year. He was absent, but a Prince of Japan was
there to receive and do the honours.
A Japanese fish dinner has been often described. We had to sit on
the mats and eat with chop-sticks, drink cups of hot _saki_ with the
chief men, into which fun the Duke of Edinburgh cordially entered. In
front of the banqueting room was a theatre, and a selection of plays
performed during the feast. This was done by the retainers of the
Daimio, according to ancient custom. The actors were men; the chief
performers wore masks. The dresses were gorgeous, and looked as if new
for the occasion. We did not understand the language, but Mitford had
kindly, beforehand, translated the plays. The motion of the actors
was so exactly like that of a turkey cock with his tail spread out,
that any one who has watched that bird, or a peacock under similar
circumstances, strutting about, needs no further description.
After the plays were over certain mysterious-looking boxes were brought
from the theatre and placed at the feet of the Prince for inspection.
On being opened they proved to be the masks that had been used on this
occasion, four in number, carved out of wood and painted. There was
the lovely face of woman, the comic, the tragic, and one I may call
the diabolical. These were said to be 400 years old. After this we
pulled on our boots, mounted, and rode away, escorted as before, taking
rather a circuitous route that the Prince might see something more of
the city. On getting home found that Stanhope had come up to stay with
Adams.
A covered place has been erected in front of the house for the
acrobats, so convenient that you see everything from a chair in the
verandah. Another such place has also sprung up, which looks like an
equestrian circus, but which I find is to be used for wrestling. In
fact, nothing has been forgotten by these kind and hospitable people
that can add to the comfort or amusement of our Prince.
I forgot to mention that after our return on Saturday we found the
falconers waiting in full costume. The hawking, however, was very tame.
A small species of water-rat was driven out of the ditches, which a
small hawk clawed before it had gone 5 yards.
[Sidenote: Sept. 7.]
Wrestling appears to be a national pastime, and is conducted with much
order and ceremony. The Prince had a large party of Daimios and chiefs
to luncheon yesterday, after which meal we proceeded to see the combat.
One side of the square, which must have been about 80 yards, was
covered in and fitted with chairs and seats for the Prince and his
friends. On the raised platform in the centre, which was about 20 feet
square, and likewise roofed over, was an altar, on which incense was
offered to propitiate some deity. The leading wrestlers from one side
then appeared and formed a ring on the platform, and went through
certain mystic movements, clapping of hands, extending arms, then
legs, stamping heavily with first one foot, hands resting on one knee,
then the other.
This over, they retired to a small building erected at the corner near
the end of the building in which the Prince and his guests sat, and
from which to the platform there was a pathway railed off. Another
party then issued from the opposite corner at the other end of the
Prince’s stand, and went through the same ceremony. After these had
retired, a herald summoned a man from each side. Certain ceremonies
were again gone through. A friendly pinch of salt was brought by each
and mixed with the soil on which they stood; they extended the arms and
stamped and kow-towed and then squatted and watched each other like two
game-cocks, until the signal was given by the umpire, when they sprang
at each other with a yell and wrestled in earnest. I did not observe
anything peculiar in that manner of wrestling. There must have been as
many as a hundred of each of the best. The wrestling of the champions
was reserved for the last and was exceedingly fine. The good Prince
Nwajima and the smaller officer Uwajima were the only strange guests.
After dinner the walks through the pleasure-grounds were lighted up,
and from one of the summer-houses on the edge of the lake we witnessed
some inferior fireworks, but the best these good people could produce.
In another pavilion was a native band in full costume, probably the
Mikado’s. The night was calm and fine. On return from the Legation, I
found in my room a present from His Majesty in the shape of a handsome
sword.
Acrobats came shortly after breakfast and performed some of the most
extraordinary balancing ever seen. For instance: a man lying on his
back balances on the soles of his feet four small things piled on
one another. One of them was a glass bowl with fish in it; another,
a bird-cage with a canary; a larger box on top, out of which came a
child, who climbed to the end of a branch that projected nearly at
right angles from a bamboo-tree growing out of the upper box--difficult
to describe, as I never saw the like.
After luncheon there was fishing with casting-nets: all good in its
way, the scenery being so picturesque.
[Sidenote: Yedo to Yokohama, Sept. 7.]
Events, although small, have followed each other so rapidly as to
leave no time to write. By 10 A.M. on the 8th, Princes of the blood
royal, Prince Nwajima, and the Daimios of lesser note, assembled at
the summer palace to accompany the Duke on board the _Galatea_, she
having come over from Yokohama on the previous evening, where they were
to inspect the ship and remain to luncheon. The _Ocean_ and _Pearl_
came over early in the morning. The morning had been rainy, but held
up as we embarked. The launch grounded outside the islands, and as the
tide was falling we cast off, and pulled on board the ships which were
anchored between five and six miles from the shore. As we approached,
the ships broke their masthead flags, manned yards, and fired royal
salutes; looking as no other nation’s ships can look--ropes taut and
yards square. Everything was most successful. The afternoon turned out
fine, without being too hot. The royal visitors took their departure
in _Ocean_ steam-launch at about 3.30 P.M., yards manned, and another
salute. Our Prince’s royal standard was, after giving the steam-launch
proper time to get out of sight, hauled down and my flag hoisted in its
place; and then the signal made to weigh.
We proceeded across under easy steam, and anchored at sunset, when the
flag was transferred to the _Ocean_. On landing, it was evident, by
the concourse of people, that the Prince was expected. He, however,
preferred remaining in his own snug quarters on board, and I took
advantage of the Legation carriage to get a lift up the hill. In the
morning I went down to Aspinall’s office to thank him for his most kind
offer of taking the entire charge and trouble of the bungalow off my
hands, and then into Curio Street, where I invested $800 for H.R.H.
in bronzes; also a trifle for myself. Grand dinner given by the 10th
(Lincoln Regiment) to H.R.H.
[Sidenote: Yokohama Sept. 12.]
_Sabbath._--Pouring with rain, sufficiently to prevent our attending
divine service. A great dinner was given on Friday night at the
Legation, including the Japanese Princes, such foreign ministers as
were in Yokohama, foreign Admirals, and officers commanding ships,
followed by a ball, our countrywomen appearing to advantage. Prince
tired; made his escape after two quadrilles and one waltz, which he
danced with our friend Mrs. Marshall.
H.R.H. took a quiet breakfast with us this morning, approving of
our curry, and then went home to be tatooed. The merchants having
kindly determined on giving me a parting dinner, invitations came out
yesterday, including the Prince among the Captains invited to meet me.
[Sidenote: Sept. 14.]
The kind friends who had decided on entertaining me at a parting dinner
determined no expense or trouble should be spared. The press, too,
entered cordially into the idea, and each had its leading article
puffing me up to any extent. There was one painful part in all this to
me: the speech which it entailed, that I had to prepare; although no
preparation was necessary, one could think of nothing else. On Monday
(13th), the Prince, Parkes, self, and the party who saw the Mikado at
Yedo, were photographed by Beato. Inspected afterwards the _Salamis_;
clean and improved.
On Tuesday (14th), H.R.H. planted some valuable shrubs in my bungalow
ground. They had formed part of the ornaments of the Mikado’s palace in
which the Duke had resided at Yedo. In the evening the dinner came off.
[Sidenote: Sept. 16.]
Nothing was left undone by my entertainers; about eighty sat down,
including the Minister, Chief-Justice Sir E. Hornby, Colonel Norman,
and Captains of ships--among them H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh. My
staff were also among the guests; _Ocean’s_ band in great form. Behind
the head of the table was a place screened by flower-pots, where the
wife and a few ladies were stowed.
Got through my speech better than I expected; the whole thing was a
complete success and ended by my being carried on the shoulders of
my entertainers round the tables, preceded by the Prince’s Highland
piper! Yesterday we had plenty to do, packing up and shifting on board
_Salamis_, intending to sail on arrival of mail. Embarked with wife and
chicks on board _Salamis_. It was determined to wait no longer for the
mail, or our time at Peking must be cut short.
On a signal from _Salamis_ at 3 P.M., _Galatea_, _Ocean_, and _Pearl_
weighed, and formed into line. All the foreign men-of-war manned
rigging and cheered. The _Galatea_ had just fired a parting salute to
Sir Henry Parkes, when the Japanese battery fired a royal salute,
returned by _Galatea_. The American Admiral gave me a parting salute,
which _Ocean_ returned. Many of the merchant ships were dressed with
flags, and a large American steamer, with a greater part of the
community and _Delaware’s_ band on board, accompanied our little
squadron, led by _Salamis_. After standing down the bay some miles at
half-speed, the American steamer _Nautilus_ passed up the line with
many ladies on board, giving each of us parting cheers. Poor Parkes
fancied he should never have another Naval Chief who would so cordially
co-operate with him. Our friendship was of long standing; his friendly
grasp at parting was touching! I met him first when he was a boy, and I
commanded _Dido_ in 1842. In 1858, he wrote--“Oh for a Keppel, just for
one month.”
* * * * *
I was among those who stood by to see Parkes’ monument unveiled in St.
Paul’s Cathedral.
CHAPTER CIII
PEKING
[Sidenote: 1869. Kobe, Sept. 18.]
Anchored off Kobe (_Salamis_), intending to go to Osaka in _Salamis_ on
the morrow. Consul Enslie and the Governor of Hiogo visited the Duke
of Edinburgh on board _Salamis_, _Ocean_ firing the Consul’s salute,
_Galatea_ the Governor’s. Nothing could be more civil and attentive
than all concerned were. Messenger sent to Osaka to prepare for the
royal visitor: the Mikado’s residence placed at H.R.H.’s disposal.
We landed and walked to the waterfall, where we found a guard and
refreshment. The Prince much pleased with the scenery, he and Stanhope
dining with us afterwards.
[Sidenote: Osaka, Sept. 19.]
Although the Sabbath, our time would not allow the deferring the visit
to Osaka. The Prince and party were early on board, and by seven we
were under way, with _Galatea’s_ steam-launch in tow. On anchoring off
the bar we were immediately visited by the officials, placing a state
and other government boats at the Prince’s disposal; the Governor
coming off, but the tide falling, we were transferred to the Mikado’s
magnificent state-boat.
Before entering the river a royal salute was fired from the battery. At
the settlement the Prince was received with a guard, and every possible
respect. The houses closed by order on both sides: a mark of respect
with which the Prince would rather have dispensed. Consul Gower had
lunch ready, after which the Prince was taken, much against his will,
sight-seeing; they rode to the castle and elsewhere. After another
feed, returned to dinner on board _Galatea_.
Just before reaching the anchorage, with position lights up and
everything proper, we were most wickedly run into by a small iron
Jap steamer, smashing the secretary’s dispatch-boat and our port
spare-spar. Herself unhurt, beyond loss of bowsprit and spring of
fore-masthead.
[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]
Damage done by Japanese steamer prevented sailing early. Carpenters
of ships on board to clear away wreck. At 10 A.M. we weighed. Heard
the last of old _Rodney’s_ band playing, “Cheer, boys, cheer!” as the
crew mounted the rigging to the very trenches to give their departing
old Chief three times three hearty cheers. _Ocean_ making signal
“Farewell,” we led _Galatea_ through the Osaka Straits, intending to
anchor for the night to the southward of the rock, our leadsmen on the
paddle-boxes showing depth of water.
However, in rounding to _Galatea_ took the ground. I joined H.R.H. on
the bridge, not with the idea of interfering, but I wished to see him
get his own ship off.
His first idea was to send the lighter boats to sound in every
direction. The shallowest water was that on which the ship had
grounded. The boom-boats were got into the water: bower anchors
prepared for laying out. I remarked that the B.B., hanging from the
cathead, looked heavy. H.R.H., referring to his small watch bill book,
had noted the exact weight and size of every spar, anchor, and boat on
board. I asked no more questions.
The B.B. anchor, with hemp cable, was laid out astern, the end passed
through port side of the captain’s cabin, brought to the capstan and
hove taut. I was wondering what H.R.H. would do next, when I heard
the message to the engine room, “Go ahead full speed.” I wondered,
as I believe others did. In less than five minutes the cable astern
slackened, capstan bars manned: she was afloat. I inquired of H.R.H.
what made him first go ahead! He had ascertained that his ship was on
the hard sandbank. He knew the vast power of the screw propeller would
dissolve the edge of the sand--the rest followed.
The old sailor of sixty had learned something from the young steamer of
twenty-five. We enjoyed an excellent dinner on the starboard side of
His Royal Highness’s cabin. Weighed.
[Sidenote: Sept. 21.]
We anchored for the night in the bay to eastward and northward of Kosii
Island.
[Sidenote: Sept. 22.]
Our run to-day was for the Simonesaki Straits. _Galatea_, not being
over handy with her port helm, we came to in Witshed Bay, opposite the
city, to wait for slack water the following morning.
[Sidenote: Sept. 23.]
Lovely weather; having led _Galatea_ through the remainder of the
straits, made signal to part company and rendezvous Nagasaki, we
taking the short cut to the westward, while she took the route to the
northward of Ai Sima. During the afternoon we passed through that
beautiful passage, anchoring at sunset in the snug little harbour of
Kigatsu.
[Sidenote: Nagasaki, Sept. 24.]
Weighed just before daylight and entered the lovely harbour of
Nagasaki. Here we found _Adventure_, _Galatea_, _Icarus_, _Dwarf_,
Commander C. Walker, and _Havoc_, merchant ship, dressed with flags
to do honour to the Prince. I soon made arrangements with Mr. Consul
Flowers, that as the _Galatea_ was coaling both sides, and guns run
in, no salute could be fired, and cut out work for the morrow. H.R.H.
received Governor, then an address from British residents. At 2.30 the
Prince will lunch with the Consul and will return the Governor’s call,
after which, I think, he will have had enough! Mr. Medhurst being here,
expressed the great disappointment there would be caused by His Royal
Highness passing Shanghai without visiting that model settlement.
[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]
Royal standard hoisted on board _Galatea_ at 8 A.M. At 9 inspected
_Dwarf_; another pattern of cleanliness and order, such as, we flatter
ourselves, is not attained by any other nation or station. Took the
wife afterwards to visit Alt’s house, where Algie Heneage and I were
so kindly nursed, where on different occasions we were really ill. We
also went over the grounds of Glover’s pretty place, where poor George
Fitzroy died last year.
Leaving the wife with the Medhursts at the Belle Vue Hotel, where
the children already were--enjoying conjurer’s tricks--went on board
_Galatea_ to assist the Prince in entertaining the Governor, then the
Foreign Consuls, after them a deputation from the British community;
after which the Prince left under a salute, ships present manning yards
and masthead flags up.
After a sumptuous luncheon with Consul and Mrs. Flowers, embarked, and
landed higher up to return Governor’s visit, which we did, preceded by
Jap guard with drums. Returned on board to a quiet dinner.
Having witnessed some of the prettiest illuminations that can be
imagined, the _Galatea_ twice lighted up with red, white, and blue from
her yard-arms and row of ports, we proceeded to the _Adventure_, where
the wife and my “only daughter” had preceded us, leaving Colin to the
care of Webb.
As soon as the Prince had heard of the above arrangement, he proposed
dividing his staff and friends intended for the trip to Peking
between _Adventure_ and ourselves, leaving _Galatea_ to complete
coal and follow us at her leisure to Chefoo under sail. Elliot Yorke
and Chevalier, the artist, and Mr. Porter, who had kindly undertaken
to prepare the way to Peking for the Prince and party, went in the
_Adventure_.
[Sidenote: Sept. 26.]
_Sabbath._--By 6 A.M. _Icarus_ had started under sail, _Adventure_
following, ready to give a tug across. On board _Galatea_ to breakfast.
Inspection below, and Divine Service, which with fair singing appeared
to be well conducted. Took a stroll through the porcelain shops, which
do not hold with the Chinese, although the Japs excel in lacquer ware.
Took an early dinner with the Prince, he having a shore appointment.
Stanhope and I paid the Flowers a farewell visit. The Mikado had sent a
few small presents to the Prince, and to me a jar of saki!
[Sidenote: Sept. 27.]
It was 2.30 P.M. before I got my passengers, consisting of the Prince,
Stanhope, Haig, and Lord Charles Beresford on board. Weighed and stood
out, cheered by _Dwarf_ and several merchant ships.
[Sidenote: Chefoo, Sept. 30.]
Came to, 2 P.M. Found _Icarus_. Elliot Yorke had gone in _Opossum_,
leaving me and Mons. Chevalier.
[Sidenote: Oct. 1.]
Miller under way before daylight. Charles Scott joined our party.
[Sidenote: Peiho River, Oct. 2.]
Daylight found us off the bar, Peiho River, with the pilot, Mr. Band,
coming alongside. Pronounced the bar passable at 10, when we forced her
through the mud, Mr. Band going ahead full speed. At the usual place we
came in contact with a tier of junks, but having left most of our boats
behind, purposely, at Chefoo, we escaped with a broken gunnel, losing a
small kedge anchor, and bent davits; Mr. Band consoling himself with a
glass of grog.
The consternation among the boats as the wave caused by our speed
lifted them on to the banks, and occasionally washed a looker-on off
his legs, was rather amusing. The Taku Forts appeared in good repair,
and the pilot reports some heavy American guns being got into position:
the coolies at work stating that in one year’s time they will be
prepared to rid themselves of us barbarians!
It was sunset before we arrived at Tientsin; it being within a day
or two of the races, the promised horses of Mr. Porter were not
forthcoming, but the boats ordered by Mr. Consul Maguire were ready,
and it was decided by His Royal Highness that we should start that
evening after dinner.
A steamer overtook us and kindly gave us a copy of the _Overland
Express_, by which it appears that my successor and his staff had left
England on August 5. Unwelcome news; although one could not help being
glad at Kellett’s recovery.
The boats by which we ascend the river are comfortably fitted for
sleeping; then we have a messing boat, a cooking boat, and one for the
servants. Rougemont and Stanhope, with the rest, including Chow-Wang
the mandarin, who has always accompanied me. We are eleven boats; each
bearing a small flag, white with a red cross, St. Andrew’s shape.
[Sidenote: Peiho River, Oct. 3.]
I am afraid the Sabbath is somewhat lost sight of, the only consolation
being that the tracking coolies might have been employed in a less
congenial way. They have no weekly rest-day.
Our volunteer provider and supervisor of everything is pronounced to
be an impostor, and Mandarin Chow-Wang is a useless expense. However,
Scott’s and Stanhope’s servants and my man Aitken do their best; the
great difficulty being to keep the boats together, that with the
provisions being always out of the way. Grapes, water-melons, and
onions to be purchased at the villages. The water is too muddy even to
wash in.
A hot, dry, south-westerly wind blowing much dust, books and papers
curling up; preferable to wet and damp though!
[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]
Still moving up the river; but our progress has been slow owing to the
difficulty of keeping so large a number of boats together. However,
all seem jolly and good-tempered; no one more so than our good-natured
Prince, whom every one delights in.
Yesterday (4th) at Hosinu, the half-way town, we found that good fellow
Conolly, who had come to meet us from the Legation, bringing me a
letter from Sir Rutherford, and to the Prince a hearty welcome.
Nothing could have been more absurd than the plan laid down for so
large a party by our self-appointed adviser, Mr. Porter of the Imperial
Customs. The idea of riding up in the cool and splendid weather of
September is all well enough for one or two, but he undertook to mount
our nine selves, four European servants, and convey luggage, to do
which he proceeded from Nagasaki on board the _Adventure_ in advance.
On our arrival at Tientsin found no horses, he having calculated on
the kindness of a good-natured European community to mount us. Nor
could the Legation provide horses sufficient for our party more than
half-way. Here we are at the close of the third day without a prospect
of doing more than get to Tung-Chow with every preparation of boats
made beforehand. The Prince cooked for us a wonderful omelette, 200
eggs and other things in it, for breakfast.
[Illustration: _The Prince who made the Omelette._]
[Sidenote: Peking. Oct. 6].
Soon after daylight our flotilla had all arrived before 8 A.M. Sir
Rutherford’s groom “William” put in an appearance with the stud, among
which I recognised my old friend “Don Juan.” There were mounts for all,
besides carts for luggage, etc. A pleasant two hours’ ride brought us
to the Legation, where the Prince received a sincere and respectful but
hearty welcome. Lady Alcock quite recovered, and Miss Lowder looking
as charming as ever. We breakfasted soon after 12, while outside were
collected the usual bazaar of curios, furs, etc., much to the amusement
of our party, who, including H.R.H., were like children at a fair. Our
party was so large that the Attachés took a part to dine with them. The
chaplain, Mr. Burden, and his wife dined with the big ones.
[Sidenote: Oct. 7.]
The bazaar reopened before breakfast, H.R.H. investing considerably.
The Russian Minister and the French and Prussian Chargés d’Affaires
came to meet the Prince at the convivial morning meal; better than a
formal presentation, His Royal Highness being entirely _incog._
In the afternoon Conolly, H.R.H., and I rode into Curio Street, where
I was induced to join in a lot together, my choice being a beautiful
Chinese jar, the likes of which I have not before seen. Other things
too were bid for which may yet find their way here.
[Sidenote: Legation, Peking, Oct. 8.]
Quarters here very comfortable; a nice little early breakfast of good
bread and butter, tea, and eggs brought to your room. As H.R.H. amuses
himself until the small hours at bowls, I thought I might dawdle too,
but about 9 I got an invitation to accompany him to Curio Street. Had
a chat with Sir Rutherford this morning on China affairs, and found
that he lamented the present policy of our rulers at home, and had
clearly pointed out the dangers, if persisted in, of our drifting into
another war. He showed me the copy of a letter Lord Clarendon had found
it necessary to address to Mr. Burlingham, late American Minister,
pointing out how different is the statement of the Chinese Ambassador
(that the Chinese Government were for advancement) from the real facts,
by which it appears that nothing is farther from their intentions,
and that therefore Lord Clarendon should consider his present policy
an experimental one only. By which it seems to me their eyes are
reluctantly being opened after the dust thrown in them by the Minister,
Burlingham.
[Sidenote: Oct. 9.]
H.R.H. and party have gone sight-seeing and to a luncheon in the Palace
grounds provided by Sir Rutherford Alcock. We dine each day fourteen,
the younger ones taking turns to dine at the Secretaries’ mess. We
move from table after the first glass of wine, followed by coffee and
cigars, the Prince going to his favourite bowls, and we old ones, as
well as a few younger, attracted by the fair Miss Lowder to sixpenny
pool.
[Sidenote: Peking, Oct. 10.]
_Sabbath._--After attending church, different parties had different
ways of amusing themselves. H.R.H., to whom it was a novelty, partook
of a regular Chinese feast--bird’s-nest soup, eggs that had been kept
a hundred years or longer, shark’s fins, etc. Most of us went into the
attractive shops of Curio Street.
[Sidenote: Oct. 11.]
Obliged to turn out betimes to enable servants to pack and start the
many carts that ought to reach Usung before us. Until the last moment
the vendors of curios flocked in and displayed their tempting articles.
At 2.30, after an excellent luncheon, we were once more on the
Legation horses, and bade adieu to our kind and hospitable host and
hostess, with their pretty daughter, on whose horse, “Snowball,” the
light Admiral was mounted, H.R.H. riding my old friend “Don Juan,”
Conolly and Baker accompanying us. It was sunset before we were all
embarked with our goods and chattels, and an hour later before we were
clear of the numerous trading junks that jammed the creek, which gave
time for Conolly and Baker to dine with us. Conolly had, of course,
delighted everybody, while nothing could have been more obliging than
both as interpreters.
[Sidenote: Oct. 13.]
H.R.H. cooked his dish of eggs, after which we resumed whist. A
fortunate turn in my luck; got up winner of the expedition of 140
points, some of it going towards curios. Having dined comfortably, 8
P.M. brought us alongside _Salamis_, H.R.H. going on shore to bowls,
having first arranged to wait over the morrow.
[Sidenote: Oct. 14.]
Mr. Chow-Wang put in an appearance early, which looked like a settling
of accounts, and certain difficulties about them were suddenly solved
by H.R.H. insisting on paying the whole of the expenses of our
expedition, left dollars with the Consul to be returned to Mr. Porter.
[Sidenote: Tientsin.]
We found at Tientsin letters from Chefoo. The Shanghai community
regretting that circumstances and want of time prevented their proving
separately their appreciation of my services in the Far East, invited
the wife and self to a grand ball. H.R.H., Stanhope, and self mounted
donkeys and rode to the town. The Prince had selected eight from the
Navy and challenged the shore at bowls. They met at 9 P.M.
[Sidenote: Oct. 15.]
It was four o’clock before our Prince came on board this morning;
they had a spirited and hardly-contested game, the shore, however,
beating the Navy five successive games, His Royal Highness backing his
side until he had lost nearly four hundred dollars. Then he pluckily
challenged them to double or quits, which he won. A long steamer,
the _Chili_, ahead, was about to start for Shanghai as soon as we
were out of the way. Wrote by her, thanking the community for their
kind appreciation of my services, and regretting my inability, owing
to orders from the present Board of Admiralty, to accept their kind
invitation. At. 1.30 P.M. weighed and steamed down the Peiho for the
third and last time.
[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]
In steaming yesterday we met an American steamer with the French naval
Commander-in-Chief on board. He was probably going to consult with
his Minister as to the best means for obtaining redress, a French
missionary having lately been beaten to death, another proof, if any
were wanting, of Mr. Burlingham’s policy. Our commercial treaties have
been forced on these Orientals, and by force only can we make them
respected, or even retain a footing in the country.
With history and centuries of experience before them, our Ministers are
imposed upon by a highly paid American adventurer and made to believe
that the Chinese people only require civilised treatment to receive
and welcome us all over the Celestial Empire, whereas their rotten and
ignorant Government are only plotting to get rid for ever of the hated
barbarian.
While looking out of the window during my toilet saw a well-dressed
China woman stumping along on her poor contracted feet with her
hands clasped and extended, shrieking and repeating some word. She
suddenly turned towards the river, making a wonderful good run, and
tried to plunge in. The water being low she stuck in the mud, when a
man and woman went to the rescue and drew her on the bank, where she
lay kicking her shapeless feet up until we passed out of sight; poor
creature! I suppose they have their fits of jealousy as well as we
barbarians.
The tide not being high enough on the bar we anchored, which gave us an
opportunity to inspect the Taku Forts--which we shall have to occupy
some day.
[Sidenote: Oct. 18.]
At 10 A.M. went to inspect the _Galatea_, where I was received with
manned yards and all due honours. Found her beautifully clean, and in
all respects a man-of-war. There is no doubt H.R.H. is fully captain of
his own ship; without an efficient head she could not be what she is.
Ship’s company below the average as fine-looking men, but as clean as
seamen who wear beards and moustaches are likely to be.
His Royal Highness came on board _Salamis_ to take leave of the wife.
Old Raby, with his good-natured, comical face, took leave of me on
board _Galatea_. On parting company _Galatea_ and _Icarus_ gave three
hearty cheers from the rigging. Proceeded to Hong Kong.
CHAPTER CIV
HOMEWARD BOUND
[Sidenote: 1869. Hong Kong. Flag in _Salamis_, Oct. 23.]
Came to in Hong Kong. Vice-Admiral Sir H. Kellett, my successor, the
Commodore, and other commanders came on board. Keswick, of Jardine,
Mathieson and Co., came inviting me to East Point. Wife and children
had gone there in steam launch. Called on Governor, taking Lady
MacDonnell a pair of pet china jars from Peking: one of which their
orderly sergeant managed to smash in unpacking. Called on General
Whitfield, who was confined to bed. He had sent his aide-de-camp and
staff on board _Salamis_ on our arrival. We were kindly welcomed at
East Point. The same evening there was a croquet party; Maginac in his
glory. Besides the Grants of 9th Native Infantry and the O’Shaugnessys
of staff, Gower and Robertson from Canton met us at dinner.
Great preparations for the reception of the Duke of Edinburgh.
[Sidenote: Oct. 24.]
To church in the Jardine carriage. I had issued a memo to the squadron
yesterday that I should give up the command this morning. Friday fixed
for my entertainment by kind Hong Kong friends. Sorry to hear of the
death of kind friend Mrs. Gilman.
[Sidenote: Oct. 26.]
Our hosts got up an agreeable party at Pokofolum: Alexanders, Grants,
Pollards, Overbeck, and others. Drove back by moonlight.
[Sidenote: Oct. 27.]
Dined with Overbeck. Large party.
[Sidenote: Oct. 28.]
The day of my entertainment. Cannot get the idea of a speech out of my
head.
[Sidenote: Oct. 29.]
It came off at last--a flattering event, enough to turn my old head,
Governor and all great people attending. My reception kind and
enthusiastic. The continued cheering tended to give me nerve.
[Sidenote: Oct. 30.]
Daily papers called it “the greatest and most successful entertainment
that had ever been given in Hong Kong.” Dined with the Commodore; one
of his good and cheery dinners. Admiral and Commanders present. Believe
I part in harmony with all.
[Sidenote: Sabbath, Oct. 31.]
At 7.30 A.M. _Galatea_ was at anchor in the harbour and galley on
shore. Should have been on board by 9, but His Royal Highness had
already visited the Commander-in-Chief and made arrangements for
landing in state on the morrow; but on my pointing out how much more
convenient it would be if His Royal Highness would defer his landing
until after departure of the mail on Tuesday, he acceeded to this, as
he has done to every proposition I have ever thought it right to make.
His Royal Highness received me so nicely, with all the warmth peculiar
to his nature, yet never seeming to forget that I was, or had been his
Commander-in-Chief. It was arranged that he was to call on, and lunch
with the Governor at 1.30, and dine there in the evening, returning to
_Galatea_ to sleep.
As the morrow would be my last in Hong Kong, the Duke kindly proposed
that self and wife should take a farewell dinner with him; but on my
stating the distance of East Point, and the early rising on the Tuesday
to go back to the mail steamer, he kindly accepted an invitation to
dine with Keswick, which would greatly please our worthy host.
Returned to East Point in time to go with wife to church. Received the
sacrament--my last in China. At the close of the service, Buckle, the
Governor’s A.D.C., came to our pew to invite us to meet the Prince at
luncheon.
[Sidenote: Nov. 1.]
Much to do at the last. Took a farewell luncheon on board _Galatea_,
meeting the Admiral and Commodore. His Royal Highness gave me a copy of
the _Galatea’s_ voyage to Australia. Under my name on the title page he
wrote “from his affectionate admirer.”
The dinner at East Point was a complete success. In addition to His
Royal Highness and suite were the Heards, Keswick’s _fiancé_, Miss
de Bourg, Kellett, Miller, Smith from Government House, Robertson,
etc. This was the great night of illuminations. We were invited to
see it from the _Galatea_, but the guide took His Royal Highness and
ourselves to the wrong landing-place; we missed the chairs and got
into a procession of illuminated fish of gigantic size. And the Duke
mounted with my wife up a ladder into a small Chinese theatre, which he
naturally concluded from its gaudy decoration and commanding position
must have been intended for himself. At midnight the party dispersed,
but His Royal Highness insisted on steering his barge with the old
Admiral and his wife back to East Point.
[Sidenote: Nov. 2.]
Now comes the end of my naval career in China, where the greater part
of my services for the last twenty-seven years have been so pleasantly
passed, but everything must come to an end.
[Illustration: “_The Little Admiral_” (_Hong Kong_ “Punch”).]
I had bespoke the steam-launch to take luggage and selves on board
the P. and O. steamer, but one and all appeared determined to do me
honour to the last. Although my uniforms had long since been packed,
I was to embark from the Government wharf under a salute and with a
guard of honour. At 8 A.M. the royal standard was hoisted on board
the _Galatea_, and a general royal salute, with ships dressed, took
place. I passed the guard, with Colin clinging to my hand. At the
pier we found all the Government officials in full costume to bid
farewell to the little old Admiral, rigged out in his Norfolk shirt
and “Rodney” hat, and instead of his galley there were the _Galatea’s_
barge and cutter--the former manned by His Royal Highness and
ward-room officers, and steered by the Commodore, to take me off; while
the latter was manned by the gun-room officers to take the wife and
children. Colin, however, refusing to quit his hold of me, partook of
the honour of being so conveyed. Never was such a demonstration, such
a triumph, for an Admiral degraded! On board, too, I met all my old
friends. There was the kind-hearted Governor, Sir Richard MacDonnell,
with a photograph for my wife of the house in which, not a year ago,
Colin was so near his end; Overbeck and old Fischer’s son; honest
old Henry Kellett, my successor; the hospitable Commodore, and the
Prince, in rowing costume, with his crew, fourteen in number. His Royal
Highness came into my cabin on deck, and there, in the quietest way,
presented me with a gold watch as a souvenir, which he said would do
afterwards for Colin, who seized the case containing the watch and
insisted that it had been given to him! I, however, have never been
without it.
On shoving off, the Prince and his crew gave three more parting cheers.
The _Salsette_ screwed ahead to the eastward, and having gained room
turned round, passing again through the ships, when the cheering was
repeated: foreigners, as well as our own men-of-war; even the invalids
from the hospital-ships caught the kind infection. This old party then
retired, feeling very grateful and his heart full.
CHAPTER CV
LAST VISIT TO THE STRAITS
[Sidenote: 1869. Singapore, Nov. 7.]
It was no small pleasure to be allowed another visit, although a
farewell one, to the Straits Settlements. Just after sunset, as the P.
and O. _Salsette_ entered New Harbour, a larger ship than usual, loomed
through the mist--the _Rodney_ on her way home. In less than half an
hour I was at dinner with Algie Heneage. They had, as might have been
expected, a long and tedious passage down, but adhered to the sapient
instructions issued by the Admiralty, not to use steam unless in case
of danger. The extra time and pay of the crew would be more than
expense of fuel.
Both Governor and Judge had made preparations to receive us, and
had sent their carriages. It was arranged, as the steamer would go
alongside the P. and O. wharf early to-morrow, we should land there
more conveniently, when the wife and children should go to Sir Benson
and Lady Maxwell, and I to Sir Harry and Lady Ord.
[Sidenote: Nov. 8.]
As the _Salsette_ hauled alongside the coaling pier, I saw my old
friend, W. H. Read. He was one of a deputation who had come to invite
me, on the part of the community, to a luncheon on the morrow. Large
dinner at Government House--a palace. Whampoa there. He gave me a pair
of cassowaries to add to the museum on board _Rodney_, also some pigs
to establish a breed at Bishopstoke!
[Sidenote: Nov. 9.]
Had intended to have paid a visit to the _Rodney_, but continued rain
set in, which lasted till it was time to start for the entertainment,
which took place in the P. and O. Office building. His Excellency
kindly drove me there. The room was prettily fitted with flags
and flowers, while on the walls were the names in large letters,
formed with flowers, of the ships I had served in on the station.
Beginning with _Magicienne_, in which I was a Lieutenant, there came
in succession, _Dido_, _Mæander_, _Raleigh_, finishing with the old
_Rodney_ (now without flag flying). The chair was occupied by my old
friend W. H. Read, with Sir Benson Maxwell, the Chief Justice, on his
left. The tables were full; the guest of the day received with cheers!
The chairman came at once to the toast which had brought them together,
and went into a long detail of the ships in which I had served and
commanded on this station, beginning with _Magicienne_. A laugh was
raised when he alluded to the Tumongong of Muar offering me the hand of
his daughter. “Then,” Read said, “there was the _Dido_. I remember her
well, with her taunt spars, sky-sail poles, flying kites, and graceful
hull, dashing about the station in every direction, and always in for
a fight when one was to be had.--The _Mæander_, with Sir James Brooke;
his merits recognised, the K.C.B. installation took place here. The
_Raleigh_, in which fifty-gun frigate he sailed into this beautiful
harbour from the westward to show his confidence in its safety, and
the wisdom of the P. and O. in taking his advice when he told them of
its existence in 1849.--Fatshan, ‘the smartest cutting-out affair of
modern times.’ Last comes the _Rodney_, of which vessel I can only say
we have seen too little; but we endorse the verdicts of Hong Kong and
Yokohama: he never undertook what he did not carry out, and a better
passport to posterity after such a stirring life no man need possess.”
Read concluded his speech by asking them to drink “Long life and
prosperity to the gallant Admiral, with three times three--and don’t be
afraid of bringing the roof down!”
Got through the returning of thanks with what composure I could muster
before so many good old friends. Sir Benson Maxwell made a kind speech
about the wife and children, which was warmly received, and to which I
did my best to respond. The meeting, which was a great success, broke
up only in time to go on board the steamer. My farewell cheer was
from the last of that noble class of ships, the _Rodney_. Friends had
collected on the P. and O. wharf to give us “one cheer more.”
[Sidenote: Penang, Nov. 11.]
At 8 A.M. we anchored off Penang, my kind old friend Lewis the first
on board to welcome me; also a letter from Colonel Anson inviting us
to pass the few hours of our stay with him. The steamer remaining for
six hours, we had only time to make a hurried call on the Lewises
before going on board. Old Jack Rodyk on the pier to see me off. Adieu,
Penang; and adieu for ever the Straits and China!
[Sidenote: Galle, Nov. 17.]
Came to before breakfast in what is called Galle Harbour, but an open
and dangerous anchorage. Money has been voted to build a breakwater. We
found no fewer than five of the P. and O. steamers, the _Surat_ being
told off to take the passengers to Suez. _Surat_ the same I came out
in near three years ago, but my old friend Dunn no longer in command,
having lodged his ship on a reef in the Red Sea, from which she had a
narrow escape.
Keppel Garnier went at once on board the _Surat_ to see about berths,
while Risk went on shore to see if we could not have possession of
what is called “Queen’s House,” the original residence of the Dutch
Governors, who thoroughly understood comfort. It was noon before he
returned, it having been necessary to telegraph to the Governor,
Sir Hercules Robinson, at Colombo, for permission; the reply being,
“Certainly, if not occupied by Lady Napier.” Lady Napier was on her way
to join her husband in Calcutta, and sailed shortly after our arrival
in the harbour. Our steamer was to start again at 5 P.M. for Suez, but
it was a pleasant change for the children and ourselves, if only for a
few hours.
[Illustration: _Jack Rodyk._]
We had no sooner taken possession than the house was inundated with
venders of all sorts--curios, inlaid workboxes, and desks of antique
fashion, carved elephants in ebony and ivory, tortoise-shell combs,
porcupine quills, walking sticks, precious stones by a dirty native,
who called himself “Stony Merchant,” whose goods we were informed were
all manufactured in Birmingham.
Of course the children wanted everything. Colin got the model of a
native boat, May an ebony elephant. I treated myself to a pair of ivory
ones, which were removed from the sitting-room table while we were at
dinner, most probably by the man to whom I had paid fifteen shillings
for them. We enjoyed a fresh-water bath. In the adjoining room was an
enormous bed, big enough not only for the Dutch Governors of former
days, but Vrouws and families! Among the callers was Wodehouse of the
Civil Service, a nice fellow, agreeable as most of that numerous family
are. The harbour-master conducted us on board the Government boat.
It was dark, but it did not require much light to find that the deck
was covered with some thirty or forty children, varying from the age of
six downwards.
[Sidenote: Nov. 27.]
Coaled at Aden.
[Sidenote: Suez, Dec. 3.]
Suez.--The _Surat_ was the first of the P. and O. steamers that landed
her passengers alongside the wharf close to the new dock. A train took
us to the hotel, where we found the great traveller, Sir Samuel, with
Lady, Baker; they had lately been at Quidenham. We had a walk and talk
with them.
[Sidenote: Dec. 4.]
The train took us off at 8 P.M. without giving us a chance of seeing
anything of the canal or country. After fourteen hours’ suffering we
got out of the train and embarked in a small steamer close by, which
conveyed us to Marseilles. Hence across France and so home.
CHAPTER CVI
SOME FAREWELL NOTES
[Sidenote: 1869. Dec. 14.]
My apprehensions about my poor friend, Vice-Admiral George Henry
Seymour, were realized. Nearly the first news on our arrival was that
of his sad and untimely death. He had early dropped the name of George,
as it was that of his respected parent, the good Admiral of the Fleet,
Sir George H. Seymour, G.C.B., to whose residence in Eaton Square I
hastened, and was received as the oldest friend of his beloved child.
There was a letter addressed to me on the table with touching details,
which I will not reproduce in its entirety. Henry was at the time of
his death a Lord of the Admiralty and Member for Antrim. The following
are extracts from his father’s letter:--
EATON SQUARE, _December 22, 1869_.
MY DEAR KEPPEL--From the long and sincere friendship which existed
between my dear Henry and yourself, I feel certain that no one will
have felt a sharper pang than yourself when you heard of his untimely
death.
Sir George Seymour in the conclusion of a deeply interesting letter,
adds:--
You have many friends, but never possessed a more sincere one than he
was to you.
He marked it on the very day of his death, when his eyes flashed on
seeing some one approach him; he thought it was you, and holding out
his hand, with a faint smile as he did so, mentioned your name. He
expired on July 24.
As a faint hope, he had joined his sister, Mrs. Gore, at Carlsbad,
and Her Majesty, with her usual thought and kindness, had sent Sir
William Jenner and Dr. Ellice; they pronounced the case hopeless....
Very sincerely yours,
(Signed) G. H. SEYMOUR.
[Sidenote: Gunton Park, Jan. 1.]
In compliance with kind invitation from the Prince of Wales, find
myself at Gunton Park. The Princess as charming as ever, but not
improved by the new fashion in hairdressing. Took Her Royal Highness in
to dinner. Whist afterwards.
[Sidenote: Jan. 2.]
Arrangements very pleasant. A cup of tea and slice of bread and butter
on being called. Breakfast when you like at small tables. Church within
a hundred yards; singing good and sermon short. The young Princes,
Edward and George, dined while we lunched. Informed the Prince that I
was writing to the Duke of Edinburgh. Was sent for into the Princess of
Wales’ boudoir; the Royal children romping while the Princess carried
the baby. The Prince was there. Altogether a charming picture.
[Sidenote: Jan. 3.]
It was 7.30 P.M. before the fresh company arrived. On going into the
drawing-room the most conspicuous and handsome (the Princess had not
come down) was the Duchess of Manchester with seven rows of pearls,
scarcely whiter than the fair neck they were on. Old Lady Ailesbury, as
young as ever, the same flaxen hair, frizzed out. Lady de Grey looking
very piquant. They all went into the shade when the Princess put in an
appearance.
Among the men, H.R.H. the Duke of Cambridge, but little altered; Lord
de Grey, Lord Hartington, Duke of Manchester, Lord Huntingfield,
Jim Macdonald, with his silky white hair; young Lord Dupplin, Oliver
Montagu, grown out of all remembrance, and young Knollys. We were
twenty to dinner.
[Sidenote: Jan. 4.]
The Royal brake and another open carriage took us to the shooting
ground, where we had driving partridges until luncheon, which was hot
and good, in a farmhouse; after that, covert shooting. The Princess and
ladies came out after luncheon.
[Illustration: _Last of the_ Rodney, 1884.[5]]
[5] This picture of the _Rodney_ was given me by Mr. Emmanuel Emmanuel
of The Hard, in whose possession is the original oil painting.
[Sidenote: Jan. 5.]
Rainy and dull morning; much chaffing and good-temper among the ladies.
Lady Ailesbury in distress for a newspaper, which young Oliver Montagu
provided on condition of a kiss. The good-natured Prince, seeing me
in a new great-coat, made me take his and save my own. Luncheon in a
farmhouse. The following days were passed in the same happy manner.
[Sidenote: Jan. 10.]
With rest of company took my departure. A happy visit not to be
forgotten for many reasons.
[Sidenote: April 27.]
Portsmouth.--_Rodney_ only paid off this morning. In perfect order to
the last. Some £12,000 paid to blue-jackets and marines.
[Sidenote: June 1.]
The following letter reached me:--
40 DOVER STREET, W.,
_May 31, 1870_
DEAR SIR HENRY--The University of Oxford propose to confer upon you,
if it should be agreeable to you to receive it, an honorary degree at
the approaching Commemoration, in recognition of your distinguished
services to the country as a naval officer. It is very pleasant to me
to be associated as Chancellor in this expression of their respect.
If you should accept the degree, it will be necessary that you should
be present in the Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford on Wednesday, June
22. The ceremony will be over by one o’clock.--Believe me yours very
truly,
(Signed) SALISBURY.
Sir H. Keppel, K.C.B.
[Sidenote: June 21.]
By 2.20 train to Oxford. Wife and Georgie West in lodgings at Muir’s in
High Street, I to Richard’s snug quarters in Christchurch. The good Tom
Garnier, Fellow of All Souls, undertaking to provide for our party at
his rooms. Dined with the Vice-Chancellor Leighton in the magnificent
library of All Souls, meeting Lord Salisbury, Bishops, Judges, Canons,
Ex-Ministers, and all those about to be made D.C.L.’s. Excellent dinner
and some good speeches.
[Sidenote: June 22.]
Accoutred in full uniform, surmounted by a college cap, and a doctor’s
crimson silk hood and cloth robe. Assembled, according to arrangements
published in the _Oxford Gazette_, in the Library of All Souls, thence
to the Sheldonian Theatre.
The Chancellor, heads of houses go in, leaving us who are about to
receive the distinction outside until summoned. After waiting an hour
and a half in the outer hall, we went in, single file, through a crowd,
I following Robert Lowe. Cheering more or less loud announced the
entrance of the forty candidates.
Difficult to describe one’s sensation on entering this magnificent
amphitheatre; rendered still more beautiful by tier above tier of
lovely women, each armed with a bouquet, such as the season produces
to perfection. Above the ladies, in an upper gallery, were the
undergraduates, who loudly expressed their approval, or otherwise,
of the different persons as they appeared below to receive the
distinguished degree about to be conferred.
In front of the entrance, on a throne raised to the level of the lower
gallery, which contained the ladies, sat the Marquess of Salisbury,
as Chancellor, at a desk; supported on either side by the great
dignitaries, as well as by those who had preceded us and had already
received the D.C.L.: an imposing sight. My place was next behind Lowe,
Chancellor of the Exchequer.
As we approached, an official announced in Latin who and what one was.
This gave ample time to those who, like myself, felt nervous as to the
mysteries of the whole affair, to look about them. An attempt was made
by some of the undergraduates to cry down Mr. Lowe with “Non Placet,”
which called forth corresponding cheers from his friends; the clamour
and noise lasted some minutes.
At last my turn arrived; name, rank, and performances were given
out, as were those of my predecessors, in Latin. Loud and prolonged
cheering. The Chancellor rose and addressed me in Latin, after which
the bar was removed, I ascended the steps of the throne, shook hands
with Lord Salisbury and then took my seat with brother D.C.L.’s and
held my tongue.
Lunch, including ladies, at All Souls, then to the Floral Garden and
excellent museums. Weather hot and thirsty, with plenty of cooling
drinks.
[Sidenote: 1871. May 19.]
By to-day’s post received a flattering letter from Mr. Goschen, First
Lord of the Admiralty, stating the gratification it was to him to have
submitted my name for the G.C.B. I replied that his opinion was more
gratifying than the distinguished decoration.
To London. Went to the Queen’s Ball, and met many friends.
[Sidenote: London, July 3.]
Donned full dress uniform, without decorations; drove to Windsor
Castle, where, after an excellent luncheon, I, succeeded by many others
(being the Senior K.C.B.), was invested by Her Majesty with the order
of the Grand Cross of the Bath--having first been knighted. At the time
of receiving the K.C.B. got a dispensing order.
[Sidenote: Sept. 27.]
Letter from the Duchess of Buccleuch, giving us the choice of a visit
to Drumlanrig before or after an intended visit there of the Prince and
Princess of Wales. Decided on going there the latter end of next month.
[Sidenote: Drumlanrig, Oct. 25.]
By train to Carlisle and thence to Thornhill, where we found the Duke’s
carriage, which took us to the castle by a little after six. Nothing
could have been nicer or kinder than our reception, company staying
being nearly all connections. I took the Duchess in to dinner. Party
consisting of Dalkeiths, Adolphus Liddell, son and two daughters,
Walter Scotts, Egremont and Gerard Lascelles, and, as the _Morning
Post_ would say, “etc., etc.”
[Sidenote: Oct. 26.]
Party formed for the moors. Nine guns--Dalkeith, Walter Scott,
Adolphus Liddell and his son, two Lascelles, Colonel Thynne, who
arrived last night, Johnson Douglas, and Mr. Maxwell. A bus conveyed
us to foot of hills; four ponies for those who liked them took us
two miles further to the grounds. A succession of hills covered with
heather; with the exception of the hills near Thirlston, the first
extensive moors I had been on. We drew lots for the numbers, which
gave us the different enclosures, in which we hid while beaters drove:
changing numbers after each drive. Lord and Lady Creighton arrived.
Game return: Grouse, 137; Black and gray game, 8; Rabbits, 4. Total,
149.
[Illustration: _Duke of Buccleuch._]
[Sidenote: Oct. 27.]
Invitation from Mayor of Liverpool to attend dinner given to Sir Harry
Parkes. Must accept, for November 6.
[Sidenote: Oct. 28.]
Rainy day. Started, a smaller party, on the moors; persevered until wet
through, then walked five miles home. Shot better, and killed my first
black-cock.
After noon arrived Lord Claud Hamilton and Mr. R. Melville, a director
of the P. and O. Co. Our usual whist in evening; party consisting of
Lady Walter Scott, Lady Dalkeith, Adolphus Liddell and self.
[Sidenote: Oct. 29.]
Attended well-conducted service in chapel.
[Sidenote: Nov. 2.]
Covert shooting without driving. A cheery bright day. Bag: Gray fowl,
6; Pheasant, 70; Partridge, 7; Wood-cock, 3; Roe deer, 2; Hares, 247;
Rabbits, 66; Snipe, 1. Total, 402.
After dinner, entrance hall cleared, and a piano dance, I commencing
with the kind good Duchess, His Grace with my wife for partner. There
were waltzes and reels. No people, old or young, could have enjoyed
themselves as we did.
[Sidenote: Nov. 3.]
The Duke kindly sending us to the station, made us promise to repeat
our visit as often as we liked. By train _viâ_ Carlisle to Liverpool,
where the Mayor, Mr. Livingston, was waiting, and conveyed us to his
country house.
[Sidenote: Liverpool, Nov. 6.]
The great event of my visit to Liverpool came off to-day. Mayor’s
dinner to Sir Harry Parkes. Had to return thanks for Navy and
self. Parkes spoke well, giving a review of affairs in Japan,
from commencement of his appointment there to present time; very
interesting. No one ever did more brilliant work in Japan than he did.
[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]
Since the middle of the month grave reports of the health of the Prince
of Wales were inserted in the papers. H.R.H. had been at Scarborough
with Lord Londesborough. With him was Lord Chesterfield, who,
simultaneously with the Prince and the groom, were attacked by typhoid
fever; of the three, H.R.H. alone survived.
Princess Alice had come over to spend his birthday with the Prince, and
remained to help the Princess in nursing H.R.H., who had left London,
in the early stage of his illness, for Sandringham. On the 30th I
received a letter from the Duke of Edinburgh, at Sandringham, saying
he was delighted to give better accounts of his brother. The Queen had
just arrived at Sandringham.
[Sidenote: Dec.]
The news was better of H.R.H. up to the 11th December, when a relapse
took place, and his state was considered critical. Constant delirium.
[Sidenote: Dec. 11, Journal.]
All hope supposed to be at an end. How sad for the nation; what a kind
friend I lose.
[Sidenote: Dec. 12.]
Uppermost in every person’s mind is the state of the Prince of Wales.
Prayers in the churches for him, and for the Princess.
[Sidenote: Dec. 14.]
Hopes revived by telegram of improved state of the Prince.
[Sidenote: Dec. 15.]
Afternoon telegram confirming improving state of the Prince. Fatal 14th
past.
[Sidenote: Dec. 19.]
Continued improvement of H.R.H. Had a chat with the Duke of Edinburgh
at Clarence House.
[Sidenote: Dec. 27.]
Wrote General Knollys, congratulations to Prince and Princess of Wales
on recovery of H.R.H.
[Sidenote: 1872. London, Feb. 17.]
Fully accoutred in uniform, and the G.C.B. collar, at an early hour to
witness the grandest function that has been performed in the largest
city of the world, friend Eyre taking me in his brougham. Not liking to
risk being late gave up the sight of the route by Strand and Ludgate
Hill, but took the less crowded road of new embankment.
Seats allotted to the officers of the Navy being the north nave, St.
Paul’s Cathedral, was in time to get in the front row and could hardly
have been better placed to witness the touching scene of the Queen on
the arm of the still limping Prince of Wales, closely attended by the
young children and all the rest of the Royal Family. Both the Prince
and Duke of Edinburgh recognised me as they passed. Thanksgiving
service most impressive: the whole ceremony being a grand success.
Queen, on returning by a different route, enabled thousands of others
to show their loyalty and affection. Attended evening party, Admiralty
House, meeting Duke of Edinburgh.
[Sidenote: 1872. Feb. 28.]
Wrote name in Prince of Wales’ book.
[Sidenote: Aug. 27.]
This morning’s post brought letter from Mr. Goschen, announcing his
intention of submitting my name to Her Majesty for the command at
Devonport. Announced the glad tidings to Prince of Wales and Susan
Albemarle.
[Sidenote: Devonport, Nov. 1.]
Flag hoisted at Devonport. Heard the salutes while dressing. Donned the
old uniform that had last done duty in China.
[Sidenote: Sunday, Dec. 1.]
On my way from church I met the Duke of Grafton in sad distress. His
Grace, with his invalid Duchess, had arrived the previous evening at
Lord Mount Edgcumbe’s winter villa, situated by the sea, but sheltered
from everything but the sun.
Her Grace, who had retired early, was off in the first quiet sleep she
had enjoyed for months, when she was thrown into violent hysterics
by the discharge of cannon in quick succession--one, of course, the
military evening gun, but the loudest was the Admiral’s. It was Sunday.
Their Graces could not get away; another such discharge, he believed,
would kill his wife--a repetition was not to be thought of; if I could
put a stop to the daylight gun; and I had no doubt my friend Sir
Charles Staveley would stop the military one. By early morning the Duke
and Duchess were out of hearing.
Now there was a factory within hearing, whose workmen went in on the
firing of the Admiral’s gun. The factor, instead of coming to me to
explain, reported direct to the Admiralty. I received an order not to
omit the usual daylight gun. On foreign stations daylight is not “made”
until the event is first reported to the Admiral. Communicated with my
Flag-Captain Heneage. Daylight was “made” at very irregular times. I
heard no more from the factor!
[Sidenote: 1875.]
My sailor’s life has come to an end: my land one must shortly. To
describe all the hospitalities and fun I enjoyed during the command
at Devonport, and the three-and-twenty years that have elapsed since
the flag was hauled down for the last time, would fill many volumes.
I have only space to mention the names of some who were kind to me
during the latter part of my sailor’s life. First comes the Earl of
Mount Edgcumbe, whose kind hospitality and the run of whose beautiful
grounds caused time to pass only too quickly. Lord St. Germans of
Port Elliot: I remember the first time I had the pleasure of shooting
over his beautiful covert of hanging woods. Charlie Edgcumbe told me
the keeper was anxious to see my ammunition. My predecessor had used
ball cartridges from his ship’s magazine to the danger of beaters. At
Helligon, was my good friend Tremayne.
Saltram was occupied by the kind and hospitable Hartmanns. He, alas!
no more. They had frequently with them the Marquis de Jeancourt, who
once kept a stud at Melton Mowbray, the handsome Marquise charming,
and so like her sister, the hostess. The Master of Hounds when I first
arrived was Mr. Trelawney, the finest specimen of a sportsman I ever
saw; of him there are published descriptions. I attended the opening
and finishing of his hunt dinners. He was succeeded by Admiral Parker
of Delamore, whose two cheery daughters frequently led the field.
Some eight miles from the dockyard residence was the ever cheery and
sporting Johnnie Bulteel, with his pretty wife and large family; when
all together it was difficult to say which was mother. In another
direction, at Maristow, a beautiful place, was Sir Massey Lopes, with
a lovely wife, to whom I was “Uncle Harry.” Nearer to the harbour was
Pole Carew of Antony, now represented by Colonel Carew, C.B., of the
Coldstream Guards. Colonel Coryton, a good and hospitable sportsman,
had a beautiful castle, Pentillie, on the banks of the river, to which
his good sister has succeeded.
Lady Ernestine Edgcumbe is now sole occupant of Cotehele, St. Mellion,
Cornwall: the same as it was three hundred years ago. All these western
landowners preserved as well as game.
On a visit to Warnham Court to my friend Lucas, I was taken by one of
his younger sons to see their sheep. On our way I noticed a lark’s
nest, hardly discernible in the grass. Something presently caused a
stampede. The flock, apparently a thousand, took to its heels and
trotted along the park we had just traversed. I was alarmed for the
fate of the lark and her eggs, and expressed my fears to Lucas.
“Oh!” he said. “I don’t mind betting you a fiver that not a foot has
even touched the edge of the nest. Come and see.”
We went back. It was as he said. Though the footprints were within half
an inch of it, the nest was undisturbed. A lesson to me of the Power
which guides the instinct of animals to preserve smaller creatures from
harm.
[Sidenote: 1876. May 11. Return of Prince of Wales from India.]
Telegram--_Serapis_, with royal standard, passed Portland, 8 A.M. To
station to meet Waterfords and Dowager Lady: breakfasted at Government
House, Portsmouth. Some 8000 troops to line streets and form guards.
Our party admitted into dockyard by tickets. Progress of _Serapis_
imposing towards the end; salutes, ships dressed and yards manned. As
soon as _Serapis_ secured alongside dockyard we went on board. Duke of
Cambridge there. Nothing could exceed the kind and cordial reception I
got from H.R.H., as well as from the most charming of Princesses, she
looking so happy. Returned to London by Royal Express. Dined with Duke
of Grafton, meeting Strathnairn, Barrington, Jim Ryley, and Ashburton.
[Sidenote: June 9.]
While at Torquay seized with some internal disarrangement. Wife in
a fright. Doctor Pollard sent for. Two visits within two hours.
Chloroform and laudanum, morphine and other poisons.
[Sidenote: June 14.]
My birthday. Miss glorious Ascot. H.R.H. expected.
[Sidenote: June 27.]
An interview with the great Sir William Gull. Was bundled off to Vichy,
where I met Lord Chesham, whose daughter had married Leicester. Had
been there before and knew how the ropes led. Never enjoyed myself so
much. We messed together; he had a charming Newfoundland dog. Chesham a
general favourite. Frenchmen named them “Urbanité et Fidelité.”
We had mountain strawberries and cream for breakfast. With baths, never
was better, but determined not to leave my playfellow. It was July 16
before I got to London. The next day was invited to a breakfast at
Chiswick by the Prince and Princess of Wales; everybody there: Emperor
of Morocco, King and Queen of Greece; all so kind to me.
While staying with Sir William Medlycott at Ven Hall received a kind
letter from the Duke of Abercorn inviting me to join his suite in the
mission to confer the Order of the Garter on the King of Italy: nothing
could be nicer.
[Sidenote: Feb. 8.]
Meet of the Blackmoor Vale hounds. Digbys, Glynns, and many friends.
Country heavy from rain. Soon found; large field. We came to a stiffish
fence with but one gap, which I left to the fair sex. Noticed an
opening at the bottom, which proved to be a long-unused road covered
with long grass. Where there had been a gate were now heavy bars, which
I charged.
Although I broke the upper bar, came down the heaviest cropper I ever
experienced. Horse by my side in similar position, but clear of me.
How long we had been there I know not, but friend Digby, who knew the
country well, had followed the marks of a horse to the corner. He found
horse and self as quiet as if we had been shot in action.
I know not how he got me back to Ven Hall; it was the nearest, though
I had that day been engaged to Minterne. My old coxswain Webb was sent
for. It was eight days before I could be moved to London. All hopes of
attending the Duke of Abercorn gone. Nothing ordered but quiet. Was
conveyed to Haslar Hospital, where I certainly secured that for a few
months.
[Sidenote: April 30.]
The _Eurydice_ training ship was lost in a snow squall off the Isle
of Wight on March 24 with all hands except two boys. While propped
up in my bed in the hospital, a regular installed patient--for how
long?--bodies from _Eurydice_ were constantly being washed up, and
funerals with the grand and sad Dead March in “Saul” were of daily
occurrence; passing under my window. With the exception of a few days
yachting I did not leave Haslar until early in August.
Space only, forbids my recalling later incidents, which are, however,
unconnected with my sailor’s life.
* * * * *
The last word must be written.
[Illustration: Farewell!]
INDEX
Abercorn, the Duke of, iii. 333
Accra, i. 214, 221, 232, 238, 242; iii. 72
Adam, General Sir Frederick, i. 148
Sir Charles, ii. 46
Adeane, Lieutenant, iii. 55
Adelaide, Queen, i. 121, 160, 246
Aden, iii. 118, 119
Admiralty Islands, ii. 150
_Adventure_, iii. 174, 180
_Africa_, i. 7, 12, 13
Agar-Ellis, Miss, ii. 201
Ailesbury, Lady, iii. 322
Ainos, the, iii. 199
Aitkin, Lieutenant, iii. 235
_Alabama_, iii. 83
Åland Islands, ii. 232
Albany, ii. 142
_Albatross_, ii. 81, 127
Albemarle, George, 3rd Earl, i. 59
William Charles, 4th Earl, i. 4, 5, 7, 67, 102, 160, 248, 249, 251,
252, 253, 254, 256; ii. 41, 43, 46, 58
Augustus Frederick, 5th Earl; _see_ Keppel
George Thomas, 6th Earl; _see_ Keppel
Lord, i. 14
Albert of Saxe-Coburg, Prince Consort, i. 250, 251; ii. 313, 324;
iii. 38, 39, 78, 80
Alcock, Sir Rutherford, iii. 143, 171, 192, 194, 236, 237, 259
Alexandria, i. 170, 178; iii. 18, 117
Alfred, Prince; _see_ Edinburgh, Duke of
_Algerine_, iii. 224
Algoa Bay, iii. 46
Ali, Pangeran Oman, ii. 84
Ali, Patingi, ii. 7; iii. 125
Alicante, i. 187, 188, 190
Allen, R. C., ii. 3
_Alligator_, ii. 337; iii. 2, 8
Allison, William, ii. 160
Alma, the, ii. 240
Amaral, Don Joao Maria Farriera do, ii. 116, 121
_Amazon_, ii. 115
Amboyna, ii. 147
_America_ yacht, ii. 203
Amoor River, iii. 192, 210
Amoy, iii. 138, 139, 220
_Amphion_, ii. 47, 234
Amping, iii. 224
Andover, Lord and Lady, i. 7, 255
Andrade, Count Manuel Carvalho Pas de, i. 40, 41, 42
Anjer, ii. 129
Anson, Eliza, Lady Waterpark, i. 8, 12
Thomas, i. 7, 163
Hon. William, i. 8, 22
Armitage, Whaley, i. 85, 87, 264, 273
Ascension, i. 90, 243, 244; iii. 69
Ashantis, the, i. 214, 218, 222
Astley, Sir Jacob, i. 14
Auckland, Lord, ii. 44, 46
Auckland, N.Z., ii. 171
_Auckland_, ii. 77, 79
_Aurora_, i. 14, 43, 44, 61
Australia, ii. 132, 134, 152
_Australia_, ii. 128, 129
Bahia; _see_ San Salvador
Baker, Sir Samuel, iii. 320
Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 123
Balaclava, ii. 252, 255, 258, 262
Balambangan, ii. 94, 127
Balfour, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81
Bali Island, ii. 131
Baltic, the, ii. 220
Banda Islands, ii. 144, 146
Bankok, iii. 229
Bannerman, Mr., i. 221, 243
Barbadoes, i. 56, 108
Barcelona, i. 188, 189, 191, 195-197, 200
Baring, Admiral Sir Francis, ii. 201
Barnard, General, ii. 246, 279
Barösund, ii. 226
Barrington, Commander Hon. George, i. 51
Barton, A., ii. 3
_Basilisk_, iii. 192
Batang Lupar River, i. 311; ii. 2
Batavia, i. 147, 216; ii. 129, 130, 131
Bathurst, iii. 72
Bay of Islands, N.Z., ii. 171
Beatrice, H.R.H. Princess, iii. 36
Beaufort, Sir Francis, ii. 201
Bedford, Mr. D. B., i. 136, 139
Beefsteak Club, the, i. 96, 97
Beith, R., surgeon, ii. 3
Belcher, Captain Sir Edward, ii. 18
Belem, ii. 213
Bell, Admiral, iii. 177
_Belleisle_, i. 261, 264, 269, 272, 275, 277
_Bellerophon_, i. 200
Bentinck, Lord George, ii. 326; iii. 101, 109;
_see_ Cavendish-Bentinck
Beresford, Lord James, i. 187
Admiral Sir John de la Poer, i. 121
Berkeley, Admiral Hon. Sir George, i. 163
Lady Georgina Mary, i. 163
Admiral Sir Maurice, ii. 244; iii. 29
Bessani; _see_ Grand Bessani
“Bishop of Bond Street, the,” ii. 70
_Bittern_, iii. 1
Black Sea, ii. 251
Bladen-Capel, Admiral Hon. Sir T., ii. 199
Blake, Lieutenant, i. 42, 44
Colonel, i. 75, 84, 88
Blakiston, Captain, iii. 238
Blanckley, Commander Edward, i. 123
Bogue Forts, ii. 54
Bomarsund, ii. 231, 233, 238
Bombay, iii. 14
Bonard, Commodore, ii. 177
Bonham, George, i. 147, 263, 288
Borneo, i. 290, 292; ii. 9; iii. 127
Botany Bay, ii. 153, 164
Boto Fogo, i. 36
Bouchier, Captain, i. 273, 278
_Bouncer_, iii. 234
Bourbon, i. 85
Bouverie, Admiral Hon. Duncombe, i. 244
Bowles, Admiral, iii. 281
Bowyear, Captain George Leger, ii. 57, 58, 59, 158, 177
Boxer, Admiral, ii. 251, 262
Boyd, Benjamin, ii. 157
Bozin, Prince, iii. 180, 181
Bradshaw, Commander Manser, ii. 227
Braybroke, Lord and Lady, i. 162
_Brazen_, i. 41, 42, 97
Bremer, Captain Sir J. G., ii. 134
Brierly, Sir Oswald, ii. 156, 157, 182, 203, 210
Briggs, Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 168
_Brisk_, iii. 45
Brooke, Brooke, iii. 11
Rajah, i. 288-296, 298, 299, 302, 306, 308, 312, 313, 317, 319,
333, 339; ii. 1, 3, 6, 21, 23, 30, 43, 44, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61,
62, 63, 65, 70, 76, 82, 84, 85, 86, 87, 90-92, 103, 111, 127,
202, 322, 334; iii. 11, 13, 29, 96, 115, 123, 220
Brooker, Commander, iii. 194, 260
Brougham, Henry (Lord High Chancellor), i. 97
Lord, i. 11, 177
Brougham and Vaux, Lady, iii. 25
Broughton, Lord, i. 97
Browne, Sir Samuel, ii. 45
Brunei, ii. 45, 82; iii. 126
Buccleuch, Duchess of, iii. 326
Buckland, Francis Trevelyan, iii. 82
Buckley, Commander, V.C., iii. 40
Budrudeen, Pangeran, i. 306; ii. 1, 42, 84
Buffalo River, iii. 46
Buffon Bay, i. 209, 210
Bulkeley, Sir Richard, i. 93, 98; ii. 42
Bullen, Admiral Sir Charles, ii. 55
Bulman, Mr., i. 257, 262, 263
Bunting, ii. 21
Buonaparte; _see_ Napoleon
Burdett, Sir Francis, i. 8, 9, 14
Burdett-Coutts, Miss, iii. 115, 124
Burlton, Lieutenant, iii. 56
Burnaby, Mr., ii. 121, 122
Burton, Judge, and Mrs., i. 71
Bury, Viscount, i. 254
Bush, Commander, iii. 221
Mr., ii. 116
Butterworth, Colonel, ii. 24, 76
Byng, H., ii. 48
Byron, Captain Lord, i. 43
Cabrera, General, i. 188
Cagayan Sulu, ii. 97, 109, 111
Cairo, iii. 18
Calcutta, i. 150, 152, 333, 334
_Calcutta_, iii. 3
Calderon, Don, i. 195
_Caledonia_, i. 168, 170, 200
Calverley, S., ii. 3
_Cambrian_, ii. 46
Cambridge, H.R.H. Duke of, i. 251; ii. 249; iii. 25, 322
Campbell, Colonel Sir Colin, i. 262, 269, 272; ii. 80, 82, 252, 301
Admiral Sir Patrick, C.B., i. 55, 244
Canning, George, i. 25
_Canopus_, i. 169, 170, 171, 176
Canrobert, Marshal, ii. 267
Canton, i. 281, 325; ii. 54; iii. 132, 231
River, ii. 15; iii. 8
Cape Coast, i. 214, 216, 217, 221
Cape de Verd Islands, i. 33, 71
Cape of Good Hope, i. 68, 69, 71, 72, 77, 87, 159, 202, 262
Cape Town, iii. 67
Caroline, Queen, i. 8
Carteret, Captain, ii. 152
Carthagena, i. 59, 198
Casher, E., ii. 55, 199
Castries Bay, iii. 214
Cavendish-Bentinck, Lord William, i. 84, 153
Cavite, i. 331; ii. 125
Celebes Islands, ii. 108
Ceram Islands, ii. 146
Chads, Commodore Henry D., i. 338, 339
Challier, Commodore, iii. 274
Charlotte, Princess, i. 6
Chefoo, iii. 172, 192, 264
Chernaze, ii. 263
Chersonese; _see_ Khersonese
Chesterfield, Lord, iii. 328
Chiang Kiang-Fu, i. 270, 271
_Childers_, i. 68, 164, 165, 174, 175, 193, 198, 244, 272, 274
Chin-kiang, iii. 221, 238
Christmas Island, ii. 75
Church, Thomas, ii. 77
Churchill, Captain Lord John, i. 66, 73, 77, 82, 110, 249, 280
Chusan, i. 266, 277
Ciervo Island, ii. 188
Clarence, William, Duke of, i. 68
Clarendon, Lord, iii. 265
Clark, John, surgeon, ii. 143
Clifford, Sir Augustus, i. 67, 84
Lady de, i. 52
_Clio_, i. 190, 191, 272
Clyde, Lord; _see_ Campbell, Sir Colin
Coaker, Jonas, i. 69, 83, 165, 249; ii. 53
Coburg Peninsula, ii. 134, 136
Cochrane, Hon. A. J., i. 27
Admiral Sir Thomas; _see_ Dundonald (“Young”), iii. 4
_Cockchafer_, iii. 187, 233
Codrington, Admiral Sir Edward, i. 68
Colonel, ii. 46
Coghlan, Colonel, iii. 118
Coke, Edward, ii. 41, 201
Henry (“Wenny”), i. 249, 264; ii. 256, 281; iii. 19
Thomas William (Earl of Leicester), i. 7, 8, 14, 15, 47, 278
Cole, General Sir Lowry, i. 77, 78, 81, 82, 83
Lady Frances, i. 78
Collier, Captain Sir Francis, i. 108, 109, 112, 249, 251; ii. 47, 82,
128
Collingwood, Admiral, i. 13
_Colombo_, ii. 270
Colonna, the Marquis de, i. 195
_Colossus_, ii. 312
_Columbine_, i. 170, 176, 180, 231, 232, 278; ii. 116
Colville, Admiral Lord, i. 29, 48
Sir Charles, i. 77, 85, 87
Comba Island, ii. 132
Comber, Lieutenant Henry W., ii. 3, 5, 45, 58, 74, 79, 125, 128
Commerell, Admiral of the Fleet Sir J. E., ii. 73
Conolly, Mr., iii. 143, 192
Constantinople, i. 175, 176; ii. 251, 312
Conti, General, i. 189
Cook, Captain, ii. 153
Cooke, T. P., i. 97, 105
Cook’s Straits, ii. 169
Cork, i. 29, 30, 48, 49
_Cormorant_, ii. 199; iii. 139
_Cornwallis_, i. 264, 269, 272, 273, 331
Corromanli, Ali, i. 172
Youssuf, i. 171
Corry, Admiral Sir A. Lowry, ii. 210, 224, 231
Corvé Bay, iii. 173, 191
Cotton, Lieutenant Alexander, i. 101, 105
Courtenay, Captain, iii. 198
Cracroft, Commander Peter, ii. 208
Creighton, Captain, iii. 187
Crimea, the, ii. 218, 244
Croker, Rt. Hon. John Wilson, i. 105
Crosbie, Catherine; _see_ Lady Keppel
General Sir John, i. 92, 246, 248, 249, 250, 251, 253, 255; ii. 27
“Dob,” iii. 145
Lieutenant John, i. 89, 91, 92, 251
William, ii. 55
_Cumberland_, ii. 235; iii. 115
Cumming, Captain Arthur, iii. 76
_Cygnet_, ii. 40
D’Aeth, E. H. H., i. 276; ii. 3, 6, 289
Dalarö Channel, ii. 224
Dalkeith, Lord, iii. 326
Daniell, Commander, ii. 127
Darby, G. S., ii. 3
Dardanelles, the, i. 176; ii. 249
_Dauntless_, ii. 230, 231
Davis, Sir John, ii. 111
de Grey, Lord, iii. 322
de Horsey, Captain Algernon, iii. 44, 45, 55
Delagoa Bay, iii. 46
De Lesseps, M. Ferdinand, iii. 118
Delmé, George, i. 81
Denison, Sir William, ii. 158, 163
Dent, John, and Co., iii. 143
Deschênes, Admiral A. F. Parseval, ii. 226-228
D’Eyncourt, Captain, ii. 73
_Dido_, i. 255, 256, 257, 262, 270, 272, 277, 319, 326, 332, 340; ii.
1, 29, 30
Digby, Lord, i. 12
Edward, i. 12, 98
Admiral Sir Henry, i. 7, 12, 13, 14; ii. 219
Admiral Hon. R., i. 12
D’Israeli, Isaac, iii. 230
Dixcove, i. 213-215
D’Orsay, Count, i. 163.
Douglas, Bloomfield, i. 302, 304
Dover, Lord, ii. 201
Drake, Sir Frederick, ii. 185
Droxford, i. 249, 253; ii. 28
Drummond, Edward, ii. 26
Duè, iii. 215
Dundas, Hon. Admiral George, i. 97, 119
Admiral J. W. Deans, ii. 47, 57, 128, 201
Captain Richard Deans, i. 55, 244
Dundee, iii. 111
Dundonald, Earl, i. 14, 36, 38, 39-42, 163, 256, 278, 280, 322, 331;
ii. 68, 212
Dunkin, Captain Thomas, i. 77
_Dupleix_, iii. 186, 187, 227
Dupplin, Lord, iii. 323
Eager, John, ii. 7
Eastern Archipelago, ii. 115
Eastern Archipelago Company, ii. 63, 127
East London, Port of, iii. 46
Eden, Commander Henry, ii. 47
Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, iii. 40, 278, 284-315
_Edinburgh_, i. 169, 170
Elgin, Lord, iii. 10, 241
Ellesmere, Lord, ii. 61, 65, 191
Ellice, Robert, ii. 116
Ellis, Commander Henry, i. 127
Ellis and Co., iii. 223
Elphinstone, Lord, iii. 14
Emhammud, i. 172
Emmanuel, Emmanuel, iii. 323
Emot, Captain, iii. 177
_Endymion_, i. 168, 180, 183, 184, 266, 274, 278
Enslie, Consul, iii. 298
Erskine, Captain J. E., ii. 164
Esche, Mr., iii. 194, 202
_Espoir_, i. 68, 69, 77, 86
Essington, Port, ii. 132, 134, 144
Etholin, Captain, ii. 302; iii. 218
Eupatoria, ii. 261
Europa Island, iii. 50
Eyre, Captain, i. 74, 260
Eyres, Captain Henry, i. 242, 278
Fairfax-Moresby, Admiral, ii. 195
Farquhar, Captain, ii. 81, 127
Fatshan Creek, iii. 2
Fernando Po, i. 223, 224
Ferraz, Captain-General Valentine, i. 187, 188, 225
Figueroa, Don Cayetano de, ii. 107
_Firebrand_, ii. 73
_Firm_, iii. 177
_Firmee_, iii. 9
Fitzroy, Colonel, i. 71, 72, 87
Commander Arthur, ii. 153; iii. 70
Captain Augustus, ii. 40, 153, 157, 303
Sir Charles, ii. 40, 153, 155, 164
George, ii. 40, 153, 157; iii. 192, 205
Mary, ii. 40, 153
Flowers, Consul, iii. 301
Foley, St. George, ii. 310
Sir George, iii. 9
Foochow, iii. 236
Ford, Captain, i. 148
Formosa, iii. 222, 223
_Forte_, iii. 39, 41, 65, 77
Fukevitche, Captain, iii. 206
Funchal Roads, i. 30; ii. 70, 214; iii. 41
Furnhjelm, Admiral Jean, iii. 194, 195, 206, 208, 212
_Fury_, ii. 115, 128
Gage, Admiral Sir William Hall, i. 55, 81, 184; ii. 52
_Galatea_, i. 100, 101, 103, 105; iii. 284, 299, 302
Galle; _see_ Point de Galle
Gambia River, iii. 71
Garibaldi, iii. 83
Garnier, George, i. 16, 19
Henry, i. 148, 159
Lieutenant Keppel, iii. 190, 231
Thomas (Dean), i. 15, 16, 25, 103
Thomas, iii. 324
William, i. 15
_Gazelle_, ii. 185, 187
Geisinger, Commodore, ii. 116
George IV., King, i. 74, 102
Gibraltar, i. 168, 184, 189, 194, 196, 200, 201; ii. 217, 248
Gibson, Consul, iii. 224, 226
Gilford, Lieutenant Lord, iii. 1, 20
Glanville, Mr., i. 74, 85, 86, 103, 104
Gleichen, Count, iii. 25
Goldsmith, Captain George, i. 68, 165, 174, 203, 206, 208, 222, 249;
ii. 68
Goodwood, ii. 55
Gordon, Sir James, ii. 42, 57
General C. G., iii. 245
Goschen, Mr., iii. 326
Gough, General Sir Hugh, i. 264, 266, 272, 273
Gouldisborough, iii. 182
Gower, Consul, iii. 299
Graham, Captain Charles, i. 331; ii. 59
Sir James, i. 119, 164; ii. 210, 256
Lieutenant Stanley, ii. 230; iii. 1, 3
Grancy, Comte G. F. E. de, iii. 227
Grand Bessani, i. 212
Grant, Captain James Augustus, iii. 41, 46
Charles, iii. 11
Lieutenant Hope, i. 98, 332, 333
Greville, Commander Henry F., i. 68, 69, 77
Grey, Admiral Sir Frederick, i. 266, 273, 278; ii. 216, 251; iii. 45,
78
Sir George, iii. 40, 41, 45, 78, 79
Captain Hon. Sir George, i. 22
Captain Hon. George, i. 22, 201; ii. 249
Gurdon, Lieutenant, iii. 224, 225, 226
Guyamas, ii. 190, 191
Gye, Frederick, iii. 25
Lieutenant Herbert, iii. 235
Haddington, Lord, ii. 30, 31
Hakodadi, iii. 159, 161, 219
Hall, Captain J., i. 271, 278; iii. 1
Halstead, Admiral Sir Lawrence, i. 57
Hamilton, Lord Claud, iii. 327
Kerr Baillie, i. 82
Hankow, iii. 243, 249
Hara-Kari, ceremony of the, iii. 182
Hardinge, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81
Hardy, Sir Thomas, i. 69, 119, 164
_Harlequin_, i. 60, 61, 184, 197, 200, 264, 274, 322, 333
Harris, Commander Sir W., ii. 68; iii. 194
_Hartford_, iii. 183
Hartington, Lord, iii. 322
Harvey, Admiral Edward, iii. 40
Hastie, ii. 47
_Hastings_, ii. 128
Hathorn, John, i. 43, 44
Havana, i. 59, 60, 64, 65, 118
Hawley, Sir Joseph, i. 248, 249
Lady; _see_ Sara Crosbie
Hay, Commander John Dalrymple, ii. 116
Hayti, i. 61
Heki Hone, ii. 171
Henderson, Commander Thomas, i. 231, 232
Heneage, Admiral, i. 102
Captain Algernon C. F., iii. 70, 115, 222, 223, 316
Henessey, Pope, iii. 230
Herbert, Sir Thomas, i. 264
Hewitt, Captain, iii. 192, 283
Hickley, Captain, iii. 174
_Highflyer_, iii. 8
Hill, Colonel, i. 66
Dr., iii. 192, 231
Captain Sir John, i. 107, 110, 255, 257, 258
Lieutenant, i. 228, 232
Lady Georgina; _see_ Keppel
Hilliers, General Barraguay d’, ii. 231
Hillyar, Lady, ii. 68
_Hind_, i. 168, 176, 180, 200
Hiogo, iii. 173, 174, 180, 187, 188
Hirado Strait, iii. 194
Hislop, James, i. 71
Hobart Town, ii. 157, 160
Hobhouse, Sir John Cam, i. 97; ii. 47
Hockham, ii. 33, 37, 38, 49, 61
Hodgson, General, iii. 119
Hogarth, i. 96
Holkham, i. 8, 15, 161, 248, 251; iii. 18
Holland, H.M. the Queen of, iii. 85
Henry, Lord, i. 1
Holman, Joseph, i. 85
Holyoake, Mr., i. 126, 129
Home, Captain Sir Everard, i. 275, 276, 277
Honeywood, W. P., i. 97
Hong Kong, i. 264, 278, 280, 322, 325-327, 331, 337; ii. 113-115;
iii. 9, 113, 129, 172, 180, 186, 220, 231, 234, 311
_Hong-Kong_, iii. 1, 2, 4, 8
Hooghly River, i. 155
Hook, Theodore, i. 121
Hope, Captain, ii. 73
Hornby, Sir E., iii. 296
James G. P., i. 22
Admiral Sir Phipps, ii. 181, 195, 131
Horsey, Captain Algernon de, iii. 44, 45-55
Horton, Captain Frederick Wilmot, i. 274, 276, 294, 296, 297,
312-316, 325; ii. 40, 256
Hoste, Admiral Sir William, i. 15, 22; ii. 42
Howard, Commander Hon. Edward, i. 199
Howden, Lord, ii. 73
Hughes, Colonel, i. 93
Hume, David, ii. 44, 63
Hunn, Captain Frederick, i. 25, 26, 33, 36, 55, 65, 168
Hunt, Captain James, i. 304; ii. 239
Huntingfield, Lord, iii. 323
Hussein, Seriff, ii. 95
Hutton, Lieutenant Frederick, i. 119, 124, 136, 157, 200
_Hydra_, ii. 65
Ibbetson, Robert, i. 147
_Icarus_, iii. 170, 222
Ichaboa Island, iii. 68
Illanuns, the, i. 294
_Inconstant_, ii. 181
India, ii. 62
_Inflexible_, ii. 115
Ingestre, Captain Lord, i. 169, 176, 177, 187
Lady Sarah, i. 187
Inglefield, Admiral, ii. 76
Inglis, Bishop J., i. 52, 53
Inkerman, ii. 259, 280
Jaffer, Seriff, i. 311, 317; ii. 2, 19, 21
Jago, Commissary-General, i. 79
Java, ii. 131
Jenkins, Lieutenant Robert, i. 333; ii. 3
Jephson, Dr., i. 253
Jerdan, Mr., ii. 30, 62, 63
“John Company,” i. 133, 134
Johnson, C., ii. 3
Lieutenant W. F., iii. 1
Johore, the Tumongong of, iii. 122
Joinville, Prince de, i. 201
Jones, Sir Harry, ii. 284
Jones, Commodore Oliver, iii. 129, 220
Jonos, the, iii. 165
Kaga, Prince, iii. 169
Kalamanta Bay, i. 180
Kapiti Island, ii. 171
Karabonu, Cape, i. 168, 176
Karangan, ii. 16
Kazatch, ii. 262, 266
Kearney, Major, iii. 2
_Kearsage_, iii. 83
Kellett, Admiral Sir H., iii. 310
Kempt, General Sir James, i. 54
Kent, H.R.H. the Duchess of, iii. 36
KEPPEL, ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET SIR HENRY:--
Birth, i. 1
Christening, i. 1
School-days, i. 2-5
Choice of a career, i. 7
Preparation for the Navy, i. 14
Enters the Royal Naval College, Gosport, i. 16
First voyage, i. 27
Marries Catherine, daughter of Sir George Crosbie, i. 249
Marries Jane Elizabeth West, iii. 80
Appointments in H.M. Navy--
Midshipman, i. 25
Mate, i. 79
Lieutenant, i. 86
Commander, i. 158
Commodore, ii. 322
Admiral, iii. 15
Ships:--
_Childers_, i. 164
_Colossus_, ii. 312
_Cumberland_, iii. 115
_Dido_, i. 255
_Forte_, iii. 39
_Galatea_, i. 100
_Magicienne_, i. 119
_Mæander_, ii. 58
_Manilla_, iii. 143
_Pearl_, iii. 135
_Pelorus_, iii. 144
_Princess Charlotte_, iii. 130, 172
_Raleigh_, ii. 324
_Rattler_, iii. 143
_Rodney_, ii. 276; iii. 173
_St. Jean d’Acre_, ii. 208
_Tweed_, i. 25, 66
Naval stations commanded by:--
The Cape, iii. 39
China, iii. 113
Crimea, Naval Brigade, ii. 284
Devonport, iii. 330
S.E. America, iii. 71
Straits Settlements, ii. 77
Honours:--
C.B., ii. 314
K.C.B., iii. 15
G.C.B., iii. 326
D.C.L. Oxford, iii. 324-326
KEPPEL, Lady (Catherine Crosbie), i. 249, 251, 253; ii. 27, 56, 57,
88, 202, 207, 208, 328; iii. 18, 35
KEPPEL, Lady (Jane West), iii. 80, 95, 114, 230
Anne, i. 47, 67, 247, 249; ii. 23
Augustus, Admiral Lord, i. 8, 59, 326
Augustus Frederick, i. 254
Captain Hon. Colin Richard, iii. 80, 95, 116, 230, 231, 273
Rev. Edward, i. 67, 203; ii. 50; iii. 19
Frances, i. 254
George Thomas, i. 1, 5, 6, 85, 251, 253; ii. 59, 61
Georgina, i. 66
Leicester, ii. 61, 69
Maria Walpole, iii. 98, 230, 275
Mary, i. 1, 66, 93
Sophia, i. 4
Thomas Robert, i. 2, 4, 7, 22, 46, 47, 67, 81, 86; ii. 29, 45, 50,
81
William, General, i. 59
family of, i. 7
KEPPEL; _see_ Albemarle
Kertch, ii. 267, 270-272
Khersonese, ii. 258, 263
Khoulalonkorn, King, iii. 229
Kiel Harbour, ii. 240
King, Admiral Sir Durnford, ii. 60, 67
Admiral George, ii. 276; iii. 113, 114, 121
Captain Philip, ii. 134, 169
Kingsley, Charles, iii. 114
Kingston, Jamaica, i. 60
Kinmel, i. 93, 162
Kissang River, i. 135
Knollys, Sir Francis, iii. 323
Knox, Lieutenant Thomas Owen, i. 119, 120, 124
Kobe, iii. 298
Korbé; _see_ Corvé
Korea, iii. 194
Kororareka (Russell), N.Z., ii. 171
Korsakof, General, iii. 195, 208
Kronstadt, ii. 230
Kuching; _see_ Sarawak
Kung, the Prince of, iii. 226
Labuan, ii. 30, 63, 76, 82, 87, 90, 125, 127; iii. 126, 230
Lagos, i. 238, 241, 242
Lahon, Cape, i. 210, 211
Lake, Admiral W. T., i. 54
Lambrick, Captain, ii. 144
Landon, Laetitia Elizabeth, i. 221
Lansdowne, Lord, ii. 59
Lante Bay, i. 170
_La Place_, iii. 162, 177
Lawrence, Captain, i. 182
Leicester, Earl of; _see_ Coke, Thomas William
Countess of; _see_ Hon. Anne Keppel
Leighton, Vice-Chancellor, iii. 324
Leithbridge, Misses, ii. 55
Le Marchant, Major, i. 75
Lennard, Sir Thomas, ii. 45
Leopold, H.R.H. Prince, i. 53; iii. 36
Lescanca, Brigadier, i. 189
Lesseps, Ferdinand de, iii. 118
_Leven_, iii. 234
Lexham Hall, i. 7
Lichfield, Thomas, Lord, i. 7, 162
Li Hung Chang, iii. 245
Lima, General, i. 41
Linga River, ii. 2, 19
Lingghi River, i. 135
Linn, Mandarin, i. 264
Lisbon, i. 103, 184
Lissa, i. 22
Livingstone, Dr. David, iii. 67
Lloyd, Mr., i. 125
Lieutenant, iii. 235
Loch, Captain Granville, i. 260, 261, 262, 263, 270, 272
Lockyer, Commander Nicholas, C.B., i. 167; ii. 116
_London_, iii. 110
Loring, Captain John Wentworth, i. 16, 17
Louis Philippe, King, ii. 76
Louise, H.R.H. Princess, iii. 38
Low, Hugh, ii. 82, 126, 230
Lowe, Robert, iii. 325
Lukin, Admiral, i. 7, 14
Lupar River, ii. 6
Lushington, Rt. Hon. Stephen, i. 148
Lyall, Sir Charles, ii. 215
Lyemoon Pass, iii. 182
Lynedoch, Lord, i. 54
Lyons, Admiral Sir Edmund, ii. 211, 256, 267
Macao, i. 264, 327; ii. 120; iii. 1, 8, 9, 130, 222
M‘Arthur, Captain, ii. 132, 144
M‘Clure, Sir Robert, iii. 8
Macdonald, Sir James, i. 4; iii. 323
MacDonnell, Sir Richard, iii. 129, 231
Mackenzie, Consul, i. 61
Macota, ii. 20
_Madagascar_, i. 165, 170
Madeira; _see_ Funchal Roads
Madras, i. 133, 134, 148, 150, 157, 158
Madrid, i. 186
Madura, ii. 131
_Mæander_, ii. 58, 60, 81, 115, 126, 130, 155, 200, 201
Magellan, Straits of, ii. 195-199
_Magicienne_, i. 118, 119, 133, 153, 200
Magin, Captain, iii. 1
Mahé, Port, iii. 63
Mahébourg, iii. 63
Maitland, Admiral Sir F. L., K.C.B., i. 165, 167
_Malabar_, i. 169, 171, 183, 184
Malacca, i. 134, 135, 137, 150, 157; ii. 24, 334
Malaga, i. 185, 186, 188, 190, 196
Malakoff, ii. 274
Malanga, ii. 172
Maldanado Roads, i. 43
Mallewali, ii. 96
Malone, Lieutenant, i. 17
Malta, i. 75, 168, 184, 200; ii. 249; iii. 117
Mambahennan, ii. 100
Mamelon, ii. 273
Manao, iii. 169
Manchester, Duke and Duchess of, i. 57; iii. 322, 323
Manila, i. 327; ii. 124; iii. 230
Maratabu River, ii. 23
_Mariner_, ii. 77
Marjoribanks, Dr., i. 326
Marmora, Sea of, ii. 249
Marseilles, i. 222
Martin, Admiral, ii. 239
Captain George, i. 169
Surgeon William, i. 75
Matapan, Cape, i. 180
Mataxa, Count, iii. 99
Mathieson, Commander, ii. 78
Maul, Fox; _see_ Panmure, Lord
Mauritius, i. 85, 260; iii. 63
Maxwell, Sir Benson, iii. 317
Maxwell, Rev. Dr., iii. 223
Mayatchni Island, iii. 195
Maynard family, the, i. 164
Mazatlan, ii. 185, 188
_Medea_, ii. 116
Medhurst, Sir Walter, iii. 221, 239
_Medusa_, i. 266, 274
Melville Island, ii. 134
Menai Suspension Bridge, i. 94
Menschikoff, Admiral Prince, ii. 240
Mexico, city of, i. 56, 64
Gulf of, i. 57
Meyerbeer, iii. 25
Miako, iii. 174, 175, 180
Michi, Mr., iii. 238
Mikado, the, iii. 190, 290
Millett family, the, i. 253
Milo, i. 68, 176
Mina, Captain-General, i. 188, 196
Doña, i. 196
Ming Tombs, the, iii. 172
Minorca, i. 14
Minto, Lord, i. 255
Minwaji-no-Mia, Prince, iii. 286
Mitford, Bertram, iii. 268, 286, 290
_Modeste_, i. 243, 277
Moluccas Islands, ii. 147
Montagu, Oliver, iii. 323
Montague, Admiral Sir William, i. 169, 171, 184; ii. 205
Montenegro, the Marquis of, i. 195
Moore, Admiral Sir Graham, G.C.B., i. 260
General Sir John, i. 260
Moorsom, Captain, ii. 285
Moowar, the Rajah of, i. 136, 137, 139-146
River, i. 135; ii. 24
Moriataba River, i. 295
Mozambique Harbour, iii. 55
Muda Hassim, Rajah, i. 299, 300, 301, 306, 307, 319, 339; ii. 42, 84
Mulla, Seriff, i. 312; ii. 6
Mundy, Captain, i. 157, 172
Murrundum Island, i. 294
Musemberg, i. 73
Nagasaki, iii. 144, 145, 170, 191, 192, 220, 300
Najassi, iii. 201
Nakoda Bahar, ii. 6
Nanbu Harbour, iii. 158
Nancowry Harbour, i. 134, 285
Nanking, i. 270, 271; iii. 239
Nankow, iii. 172
Nanning, i. 134, 135
Napier, Admiral Sir Charles John, K.C.B., i. 101, 102, 107, 117, 167,
247; ii. 53, 57, 226, 228
William, i. 288; ii. 24, 64, 67, 87
Napoleon, i. 1, 86, 90, 253
Napper, Surgeon James, i. 71
Nash, Lieutenant Charles, i. 70
Natunas, i. 294, 296, 297
Navarino, i. 68
Nelson, Rev. Edmund, i. 15
Lord, i. 13, 15, 24; ii. 267
New Guinea, ii. 148
Newman, Sir Robert, ii. 276
New Spain, i. 64
New Zealand, ii. 152, 169
Nicholai, iii. 192, 206
Nicholas I., Czar, ii. 258
Nicholson, Port, ii. 169
Nicobar Islands, i. 134, 284
Nigata, iii. 167
Nightingale, Miss Florence, ii. 251
Ning Po, i. 279
Noad, Lieutenant Arthur, i. 113, 203, 257
Nogueras, General, i. 188
Norfolk Island, ii. 165
Norman, Colonel, iii. 296
Norris, Sir William, i. 285, 289
Northumberland, Duke of, i. 49
Norton, Mrs., i. 260
Nova Scotia, i. 52
Novogorod Harbour, iii. 194
Nwajima, Prince, iii. 293
_Ocean_, iii. 179, 277
O’Donnell, Colonel, i. 192
Ohier, Admiral Marie Gustave, iii. 180, 227
Oldfield, Lieutenant R. Brice, ii. 59
Ommaney, Admiral Sir John, ii. 209
Onrust Island, ii. 130
Ord, Sir Henry, iii. 316
_Orestes_, i. 180, 197, 200
Orizaba Mountain, i. 62
Osaka, iii. 174, 179, 180, 186, 190, 220, 298
Osmond, John, i. 84
Otho, King of Greece, i. 179
Ou-teng-foi, iii. 235, 236
Owen, Admiral Sir E. W., i. 127, 128
Paddi, town, i. 317
Paget, Commander Charles, i. 94
Clarence, ii. 264
Pakington, Sir John, iii. 113
Pakoo, i. 318
Palmas, Cape, i. 211
Palmerston, Lord, i. 185; ii. 123, 182, 256; iii. 28, 29, 32, 100
Panmure, Lord, i. 162; iii. 15-17
Papua, ii. 148
Parker, Rev. Dr., i. 281
Admiral Sir William Hyde, i. 191, 193, 195, 198, 254, 264, 266,
271, 272, 273, 278, 325; ii. 27, 31
Parkes, Sir Henry, i. 264, 278; iii. 148, 150, 168, 169, 174, 179,
181, 187, 188, 273, 297, 328
Paros, i. 179
Parseval Deschênes; _see_ Deschênes
Partridge, family, i. 5; ii. 49
Partridge, C., ii. 61
Paterson, Mr., i. 66, 67
Patingi, Ali, ii. 7
Patterson, Admiral, i. 52
Charles, i. 52
Patusen, ii. 2, 3, 5
Pechell, Captain, ii. 299
Peck, Henry and George, i. 73
Pedro, Don, i. 40
Peel, Sir Lawrence, i. 335
Peiho River, iii. 171
Peking, i. 81; iii. 144, 171, 259
Pelham, Dudley, i. 166
_Pelican_, i. 226, 231, 242, 277
Pell, Sir Watkin, ii. 43
Pelorus, ii. 144
Penang, i. 146, 149, 282, 333, 337; ii. 334; iii. 14, 120, 229, 318
_Penelope_, iii. 283
Penguin Island, i. 203, 208
Percy, Admiral Hon. Josceline, ii. 199
Percy, Captain Joseph, i. 169, 176
Perim, iii. 118, 119
Pernambuco, i. 41, 42
Perote, i. 64
Perry, Dare and Co., Messrs., i. 135
_Perseus_, iii. 234
Petropaulovski, i. 178; iii. 208
Pettigrew, Dr., i. 100
Pfingsten, Major, iii. 195
_Phlegethon_, i. 278; ii. 1, 3, 6, 77, 84, 234
_Piraeus_, the, i. 178
Plampin, Admiral, i. 48
Plumridge, Admiral J. H., i. 119, 121, 135; ii. 76, 231; iii. 130
_Plymouth_, ii. 121
Point de Galle, iii. 14, 119, 318
Po-leng, iii. 235
Polkinghorne, Commander James, i. 79
Pomony, iii. 56
Pontranini, ii. 20
Poore, Sir E., ii. 41
Popham, Commander Brunswick, i. 226, 231, 232, 242, 243
Popoe, Little, i. 235, 236
Porchester Castle, i. 52
Porirua, Cape, ii. 171
Port-au-Prince, i. 61
Portendick, i. 202
Porter, Captain, i. 98
Port Jackson, ii. 152, 153
_Portland_, i. 178, 180
Port Louis, i. 77, 79, 85
Port Mahon, i. 194
Port Nicholson, ii. 171
Porto Praya, i. 69, 204
Port Royal, Jamaica, i. 57, 60, 62, 112, 113
Posietta Bay, iii. 194
Potoo, i. 278
Pottinger, Sir Henry, i. 264, 271, 272, 273, 278, 322
Major, i. 327
Price, Captain David, i. 178
Prince Edward’s Island, ii. 73
_Princess Charlotte_, i. 52; iii. 129, 130, 220
Prince’s Island, i. 224, 225, 229, 237, 244
Princess Royal, the, i. 253; iii. 114, 121
Province Wellesley, i. 283
Pulo Sabu, i. 288
Queensberry, Marquis of, iii. 40
Quidenham, i. 1, 8, 9, 93; ii. 56, 65
Quin, Captain Michael, ii. 23
Quitta, i. 235, 240
Raffles, Sir Stamford, i. 285; ii. 76
Raffles Bay, ii. 134
Raglan, Lord, ii. 256, 264, 275
_Raleigh_, ii. 324, 336; iii. 2, 8
Ramsay, Captain, ii. 235
_Ranee_, ii. 86
Ranelagh, Lord, i. 196
_Rattler_, iii. 190, 227
_Rattlesnake_, ii. 153
Read, Lieutenant Charles B., ii. 58, 72
W. H., i. 289; iii. 317
Lieutenant (U.S.N.), iii. 177
Redan, the, ii. 274, 299-304
_Revenge_, i. 200
Reynolds, Admiral Barrington, ii. 199
Rice, Edward, i. 169, 248, 260, 264, 274, 277
family, the, i. 248
Rich, Henry, i. 96
Richmond, Duke of, i. 72, 253
Duchess of, i. 72
Rigby, Colonel, iii. 62, 63
_Rinaldo_, iii. 187, 221, 222, 234
Rio de Janeiro, i. 36, 42, 43, 123; ii. 72, 198; iii. 42, 75
Rio de la Plata, i. 43
Risk, W. B., iii. 145
Rivers, Lieutenant, ii. 47
Roberts, Captain Sir Samuel, i. 168, 180
Robinson, Commander, iii. 221
Sir Hercules, iii. 319
Roches, M., iii. 174, 180, 188
_Rodney_, i. 191, 192, 193, 196, 197, 200; ii. 276, 304; iii. 173,
177, 180, 222, 247, 276, 323, 324
Rodyk, Jack, iii. 318
Roe, Sir Frederick and Lady, ii. 45
Rokeby, General Lord, ii. 246, 255
Romney family, the, i. 257
Rose, Sir Hugh, iii. 14
Rosebery, Lord, i. 7
Rouen, Baron de Forth, ii. 117
Rougemont, Lieutenant, iii. 187
Rous, Admiral Hon. Henry, i. 87, 90; iii. 20
Rowley, Sir Charles, ii. 27
Admiral Sir Josias, i. 168, 180, 182, 183, 185, 201, 247; ii. 39
Josias (junior), i. 261
Admiral Samuel, ii. 32
Roy, Captain, iii. 186
Rubielo, i. 188
Ryder, Captain A. P., ii. 230
Sacrificios, i. 114
Sadong River, i. 311; ii. 85
Saghalien Island, iii. 194, 198
Sahib, Seriff, ii. 2, 5, 20
Saigon, iii. 227
St. Angelo, Cape, i. 178
St. Barbara River, i. 227
San Domingo, i. 16, 61, 163
St. Helena, i. 90
St. Jago de Cuba, i. 33, 61, 69, 204, 261
_St. Jean d’Acre_, ii. 208, 233, 243
St. John, Sir Spenser, ii. 69
St. Juan d’Ulloa, i. 62
St. Paul’s, Cape, i. 235, 238
Island, i. 123
Roads, i. 85
San Salvador, i. 38, 39, 40; iii. 77, 78
St. Thomas Island, i. 229; iii. 73
St. Vincent, i. 97, 107
Sakai, iii. 186, 187
Salamanca, i. 82
Salamis, Bay of, i. 179
_Salamis_, iii. 115, 120, 122, 145, 173, 180, 192, 198, 234, 237
Salisbury, Lord, i. 177; iii. 324
Saltoun, General Lord, i. 252, 264, 327, 332
_Samarang_, ii. 18
Sambas River, i. 292
Sandilands, Commander A. A., i. 129
Sandringham, iii. 92, 93, 260
Sandwich Islands, i. 43; ii. 151
Santobong, ii. 112
_Saracen_, i. 203, 223, 228, 231, 232, 239, 240
Sarawak, i. 294, 296, 304, 319, 339; ii. 21, 83, 112; iii. 11, 124,
229
Sarebas, the, ii. 127
River, i. 311
_Satellite_, iii. 122
Satsuma, Prince, iii. 174, 175, 178, 180
Saumarez, Sir James, i. 69
Captain, i. 326
Saxe-Weimar, Duke Bernard of, ii. 131
Prince Edward of, ii. 253
Schomberg, Commodore, i. 85, 87
Scott, Captain Lord Charles, iii. 170, 222
Captain Frank, i. 103, 190; ii. 7
_Scout_, i. 167, 170, 225, 231, 232, 240, 242
Sebastopol; _see_ Sevastopol
Seboo, ii. 2
Sekarran, country, ii. 2
River, i. 312; ii. 6
Sekarrans, the, ii. 1, 127
Senegal, i. 238
_Serapis_, iii. 332
Seriff Jaffer, ii. 2
Seton, Sir Henry, i. 335
Sevastopol, ii. 240, 254, 256, 264
Seymour family, the, i. 253
Admiral Sir George, i. 163, 198, 258; ii. 327; iii. 321
Admiral G. Henry, i. 198, 200, 275, 277, 278, 322, 333; ii. 235;
iii. 283, 321
Admiral Lord Hugh, i. 16, 17
Admiral Sir Michael, i. 55; ii. 209, 238, 337; iii. 1, 9
Michael (junior), iii. 3
Lord William, ii. 235
Shakotan Bay, iii. 227
Shanghai, i. 266, 277; iii. 142, 172, 180, 220, 237
Shaw, Whitehead and Co., i. 288
Shepherd, Captain, ii. 182
Quartermaster John, ii. 274, 282
Sheridan, Charles, i. 260
Francis, i. 260, 261, 262
Sheriff, Admiral, ii. 47, 56, 60
Shrewsbury, Lord, i. 187
Shunski, Ito, iii. 183
Siefukigi Temple, iii. 183
Sierra Leone, i. 202, 203, 233; iii. 70
Simmons, Mr., purser, ii. 80
Simoneseki Straits, iii. 146, 265
Simon’s Bay, i. 71, 74, 75, 77, 83, 86, 261; iii. 45, 67, 74
Simpson, Arthur Bridgman, i. 70, 71
General, i. 81; ii. 279
Dr., i. 271, 319, 322, 323
Sinclair, Major, i. 291
Singapore, i. 147, 157, 263, 281, 285, 288, 322, 333, 338; ii. 23,
24, 75, 77, 111, 128, 129; iii. 9, 13, 115, 120, 121, 122, 230
_Sir Charles Forbes_, iii. 1
Skipsey, Commodore, i. 76
Skipwith family, the, i. 253; ii. 48
Lieutenant Grey, i. 165, 191, 193, 252, 264, 272, 273, 278, 279,
291; ii. 65
Smith, Lieutenant Christopher, i. 63, 71
Smyrna, i. 168, 175, 176
Sober Island, i. 127
Somerset, the Duke of, iii. 79, 265
Lord Charles Fitzroy, i. 72
Soult, Marshal, i. 247
Spalding, John, i. 98
_Spartan_, ii. 41
Speke, Captain John Hanning, iii. 41, 46, 57, 91
Spencer, Earl, i. 102, 103, 253
_Sphynx_, ii. 52
Spurrier, Mr., iii. 4, 20
Stanhope, Captain, iii. 179, 181, 186, 187
Elizabeth, i. 8
Spencer, i. 8
Stanley, Captain Owen, i. 291; ii. 134, 142, 153, 156
_Stanley_, iii. 222
Staveley, Captain, ii. 117-123
General, ii. 117
Stephenson, Augustus, ii. 240
Commander Henry Frederick, i. 66, 93, 96, 97, 119, 164; ii. 219;
iii. 15-17, 19, 27, 107, 115, 190, 205
Henry (junior), ii. 219, 233
Lady Mary; _see_ Keppel
Steward, Mr., ii. 7
Stewart, Mrs. Keith; _see_ Fitzroy, Mary
Stoddard, Consul, ii. 70
Stopford, Admiral Sir Robert, i. 201; ii. 46, 55
Straits Settlements, the, iii. 121, 316
Strongiolo Bay, i. 179
Suckling, i. 20, 24
Suez, iii. 18, 118
Suffield, Lord and Lady, i. 162
Suffolk, Earl of, i. 97
Sullivan, Sir Charles, Bart., i. 59
Sulu, the Sultan of, ii. 104
Sumatra, i. 149
Summers, Mr., ii. 118-123
Sunda, Straits of, i. 147, 263; ii. 75
Surtees family, i. 5
Sussex, H.R.H. Augustus, Duke of, i. 9, 11, 66, 93, 97, 160, 161,
246, 247, 249, 322
Suttie, Captain Francis, iii. 115
Swan, Commander John, iii. 190
Swansen, Mr., i. 214, 215, 216, 219-221
Swatow, iii. 136, 233, 235
Swinhoe, Consul, iii. 237
_Sybille_, iii. 8
Sydney, ii. 152, 153, 154, 164
Symonds, Sir William, i. 169; ii. 41, 46
Syra, i. 180
Tagus, River, ii. 213
Tahiti, ii. 177
Tai-wan-foo, iii. 224
Taki Zingaburo, iii. 183, 184
Taku Forts, iii. 171, 264, 303, 310
_Talavera_, i. 169, 171
Talbot, Captain Charles, i. 123
Talleyrand, Prince, i. 162, 247
Tambilan Islands, i. 292, 338
Tampico, i. 58, 64, 65, 113
Tangiers, i. 168
Tang-Tau, iii. 234, 235
Tanjong Datu, i. 294; ii. 83; iii. 123
Tanjong Po, i. 295; ii. 83
Tarragona, i. 189, 196
Tartary, Gulf of, iii. 192
Tasmania, ii. 157
Taylor, pilot, i. 257
Tchung-How, iii. 263
Templer, John, ii. 43, 62
J. L. B., ii. 43
Termination Island, iii. 195
Thackeray, William Makepeace, iii. 82
Thistlethwaite, Mr., i. 251
Thompson, Deas, ii. 157
Thompson, Rev. Josias, ii. 328; iii. 9
Thours, Captain Du Petit, iii. 187, 227, 271
_Thunderer_, i. 121, 169, 170, 180
_Tien Chi_, iii. 222
Tientsin, iii. 303
Tillenadin, Conanyaga Modr, i. 128
Tomari, iii. 163
Tombeaux Bay, iii. 65
Tonga Tabu, ii. 172
Toolyan Island, ii. 106
Torres, Captain de, i. 36
Torres Straits, ii. 142
Tortoza, i. 188
Tosa, Prince, iii. 170
Tottenham, Lieutenant, i. 258, 285; ii. 81
Townshend, Captain Lord James, i. 123
Tracey, Commander, iii. 177
Trade Town, i. 203, 206
Trafalgar, i. 7, 12
_Tribune_, i. 169, 175, 183, 189; iii. 8
Trincomalee, i. 125, 128, 147, 157
Tripoli, i. 171, 178
Tristan d’Achuna, i. 123
Trollope, Commander, iii. 222
Trowbridge, Captain Sir Thomas, i. 257, 272; ii. 116, 117, 120
Troy, i. 178
Tseng Kuo-fau, iii. 222
Tumongong of Singapore, the, ii. 81, 82
Turnour, Captain Edward W., i. 333; ii. 3-7, 336; iii. 1, 4, 39, 45
Twanai, iii. 163
_Tweed_, i. 19, 25, 46, 65, 66, 67, 85
Twofold Bay, ii. 157
_Tyne_, i. 169, 176, 187, 189, 200
_Undaunted_, i. 67, 84
Undop, ii. 5, 6, 19
Valencia, i. 187, 191, 195
Valparaiso, ii. 195
_Venus_, iii. 186
Vera Cruz, i. 57, 58, 62, 65
Vernon, Lord, i. 184
_Vernon_, i. 169, 180
Victor of Hohenlohe, Prince, ii. 235; iii. 1, 2, 9, 25
Victoria, Queen, i. 247, 250, 251; ii. 218, 313, 324; iii. 19, 41,
116, 322, 329
Princess; _see_ Princess Royal
_Victory_, i. 53
Villa Nueva, i. 200
Vizeu, Francisco Nunes Sweezer, i. 2, 103
_Vladimir_, ii. 302
Vladivostock, iii. 198, 218
Vlangali, A., iii. 192, 194
_Volage_, i. 169, 180
Von Brockhausen, Baron, i. 191
Vourla, i. 168, 170, 171, 173
Wade, Sir Thomas, i. 81
Colonel, i. 81
Lieutenant C. F., ii. 3, 6, 14
Waitemata Harbour, ii. 171
Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, i. 96, 257; iii. 81, 92, 93, 105, 113,
115, 322, 328, 329, 332, 333
H.R.H. the Princess of, iii. 81, 93, 105, 322, 333
Walker, Captain Sir Baldwin, i. 201; ii. 208; iii. 74
Walpole-Keppel, family of, i. 7
_Wanderer_, i. 275, 333
Waring, Mr., i. 187
Warren, Admiral, i. 121; iii. 75
Warrington, Colonel, i. 172
Waterford, Lord, i. 246
Waterloo, Battle of, i. 1, 72, 86
Waterpark, Eliza, Lady, i. 8
_Waterwitch_, i. 223, 227, 228
Watson, Captain, i. 274, 277, 278
Wellesley, Captain George, iii. 14
_Wellesley_, ii. 68
Wellington, Duke of, i. 82, 86, 247, 256; ii. 206
Wellington, N.Z., ii. 171
Wemyss and March, Earl of, i. 8
Frederica, Countess of, i. 8
West, Green, i. 71
Jane; _see_ Keppel, Lady
Rev. Richard, iii. 80
Whampoa, i. 323; ii. 80, 116; iii. 14, 232, 317
Whichcote, Sir Thomas, iii. 27
White, Admiral Sir John, ii. 29
Whitehead, Mr., i. 322
Whitshed, Admiral Sir James Hawkins, i. 27
Whydah, i. 237, 239
Whytock, Colonel, ii. 60
Wildman, Colonel, i. 11
William IV., King, i. 102, 120, 121, 160, 161, 163, 200
Williams, Sir John, i. 94
Admiral Sir Thomas, G.C.B., i. 94, 165
Williamson, Mr., i. 302; ii. 7
Willoughby, James, iii. 117
Wilson, Lieutenant A. K., iii. 178
family, the, i. 51
Windham, General Charles, ii. 260, 300, 301
Mr., ii. 101, 105
Windsor, iii. 115, 116
Wise, Henry, ii. 43, 62, 63
Captain W., i. 169
Wodehouse, George, i. 103
_Wolverine_, i. 199, 200, 281; ii. 24
Wood, Sir Charles, iii. 9
Rev. James, i. 2, 4
Woosung, i. 266-269, 275; iii. 180, 220
Würtemburg, the Prince of, i. 115
Wynberg, i. 71
Xalapa, i. 57, 63, 64
Xavier, St. Francis, i. 150
Xeres, i. 184
Yang-tse-kiang River, i. 268, 269; iii. 237
Yarborough, Lord, i. 166
Yates, Mr., i. 66
Yedo, iii. 148, 179, 180, 265
Yeh, Admiral, iii. 6
Yeng Cheow, iii. 223
Yesso, iii. 164
Yo-chow, iii. 250
Yokohama, iii. 148, 150, 151, 162, 174, 177, 179, 180, 191, 192, 220,
295
Yokosha, iii. 191
York, Cape, ii. 142
Young, Captain, ii. 79
Yule, Lieutenant, ii. 165
Zante, i. 180, 182
Zanzibar, iii. 57
the Sultan of, iii. 62
_Zebra_, iii. 222
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