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Title: Cacaos and chocolates in the United States of America
Author: Prof. Nemo
Release date: May 6, 2026 [eBook #78613]
Language: English
Original publication: New York: Huyler's Chocolate Works, 1885
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/78613
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CACAOS AND CHOCOLATES IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA ***
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE
Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.
Small caps in the text is denoted by UPPERCASE.
Superscript text is denoted text between curly braces preceded by a
caret. Example: 15^{th}.
Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.
[Illustration:
1 Cabosse or fruit of the Cacao tree
2 Length-wise section of the fruit
3 Cross section
4 Bean or seed
5 Bean without shell
6 Blossom
]
HEALTH IS BETTER THAN WEALTH.
[Illustration]
_UTILE DULCI_
[Illustration: LA
VOGUE
TRADE MARK.]
CACAOS
AND
CHOCOLATES
IN THE
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
By PROF. NEMO,
_Corresponding Editor of_ “LE LIVRE,” _from Paris_.
HUYLER’S CHOCOLATE WORKS,
S. E. COR. 18^{TH} ST. AND IRVING PLACE,
NEW YORK.
COPYRIGHT, 1885,
BY PROF. NEMO.
Press of J. J. Little & Co.,
Nos. 10 to 20 Astor Place, New York.
TO THE PUBLIC.
Among the American people there is comparatively but a slight knowledge
of the excellent properties of _good chocolate_, and the many benefits
derived from a generous and frequent use of it in its various forms of
food and bon-bons.
In presenting a full account of its manufacture, we give a history of
the cacao bean, from its growth to its final change into the chocolate,
ready for use as a delicacy or as an article of food for family use.
We have also added the decided opinions of many eminent authorities of
this country, and especially of those in Europe where chocolate has
been much longer and more abundantly used; and we believe that its use
here will increase to an _enormous_ extent as soon as the people
gain a knowledge of its restorative and health giving qualities.
NATURAL HISTORY.
Theobroma cacao, so classed by Linnæus, the celebrated Swedish
naturalist, is a beautiful tree found only in the tropical countries.
The Mexican name of the tree is _Cocoquahuilt_, and the name
_Theobroma_, is derived from two Greek words meaning “food of the
gods.”
In the beautiful valleys of Mexico and Venezuela the cacao tree is
found in its most perfect beauty and in the highest cultivation. Under
that genial climate, vegetation is perennial, and leaves, buds, flowers
and fruits are seen together at all seasons, presenting a charming and
harmonious array of most picturesque and varied colors—the graceful
ornament of the forest of the New World.
The tree is exceedingly delicate; it must have warmth, shade and
moisture; the heat should never be less than 70° F.; it must not be
transplanted out of its native soil, and, to produce good fruit,
it wants a particular quality of land, temperature and atmospheric
conditions, which are found united only in the intertropical regions of
the American Continent.
The longest period of production of the theobroma cacao tree is from
eight to thirty years; it bears usually about a hundred _pods_
(cabosses or mazorcas) of a form and color resembling cucumbers,
containing a number of beans enclosed in a rose-colored spongy pulp,
which is of itself an article of food.
There are two crops of the pods gathered during the year, in June and
December, although the fruit may be collected throughout the whole
year, as the pods are continually opening.
The composition of the seed in which amylaceous matter is combined with
oil, contains also a principle similar in nature to theïn and caffeïn.
As soon as the fruit is collected, the beans are separated from the
pulp and dried in the sun. In some countries they are placed in large
tubs and covered for several days for the purpose of undergoing a
slight fermentation.
The most esteemed of the known kinds of cacao beans are the following:
The _Soconuzco_ and _Tabasco_ Cacaos of Mexico; the _Caracas_ Cacaos
from Venezuela, among which are the celebrated plantations of _Chuao_,
_Maracaibo_, _Tuy_, _Porto-Cabello_, _San-Felipe_, and many others.
The second class embraces: _Para_ or _Maragnon_, and _Bahia_ from
Brazil, some from Trinidad, Martinique, Cuba, and other West India
Islands, some from Ceylon, Bourbon and Philippine Islands, and some
from Florida and Louisiana in the United States.
ANALYSIS OF CACAO.
Alfred Mitscherlich, a great German chemist, in his notice “_Der
Cacao und die Chocolade_,” published in Berlin in 1859, gives the
following analysis. We also reproduce the same from Payen:
Mitscherlich. Payen.
Fatty matter (fixed oil), 49 50
Albuminoid matter, 13 20
Theobromine, 3 3
Starch, 14 10
Cellulose, 5 2
Mineral substances, 3 4
Coloring matter, 3 0
Ashes, 3 0
Water, 9 11
--- ---
100 100
Theobromine is the active principle of cacao, and its taste and aroma
are due mainly to an essential oil and to tannin.
The astringent substance, tannin, is found in a large proportion in the
Para cacao, but very seldom in the Soconuzco Caracas, Cauca or Ceylon
cacaos; it is for that reason that the mixture of the last named cacaos
with the former, is quite indispensable.
AUTHORITIES.
_From the Dispensatory of the United States of America_ (_Philadelphia:
Fifteenth Edition, 1884_).
Chocolate is differently prepared in different countries. On the
continent of Europe, sugar is generally incorporated with the paste,
and spices—especially cinnamon—are often added. Vanilla is a favorite
addition in South America, France and Spain. Cacao, called _Cocoa_, is
often sold in powder; in this state it is much employed as a drink at
breakfast and tea, and serves as a substitute for coffee in dyspepsia.
It is also a good article of diet for convalescents.
_From the National Dispensatory_ (_Philadelphia, 1884_).
The Cacao is often incorrectly called Cocoa or Chocolate tree; the
proper name is _Cacao_, from the tree _Theobroma Cacao_.
OIL OF THEOBROMA, BUTTER OF CACAO.
In the manufacture of chocolate a portion of the cacao seed are
deprived of their fat by removing the shells, heating the kernels to
about 70° C. (158° F.), and pressing them between hot iron plates. The
yield from different varieties of cacao is from 35 to 45 per cent.
The dietetic use of chocolate does not require any detailed notice in
this place. Prepared with water or milk, it is employed as a substitute
for coffee in southern Europe, South America, Mexico and West India,
and to a less degree in other civilized countries. It is to be
preferred to the other agents mentioned when a nutritive rather than
an excitant operation is desired; and hence it is familiarly employed
during convalescence from acute disease, and as a substitute for tea
or coffee in the diet of persons whose nervous system is liable to be
deranged by them.
* * * * *
The English name cocoa, which is used to designate the product of
the highly-prized cocoa bean (_Theobroma Cacao_), is improperly
applied to that fruit; for, according to _Webster’s_ Dictionary
(Edition of 1884), _cacao_ is the proper term to use; cocoa should
only be employed to designate the fruit or nut of the _Cocoa-nut
tree_.
_From A Manual of Practical Hygiene. By Ed. A. Parkes, M.D., F.R.S._
(_London, 1878_).
Although the theobromine of cocoa is now known to be identical with
theïn and caffeïn, the quantity of fat is large. It varies even in the
same sort of cocoa, but usually from 45 to 50 per cent.
The large quantity of fat and albuminoid substance make it a very
nourishing article of diet, and it is therefore useful in weak states
of the system (and for healthy men under circumstances of great
exertion).
By roasting, the starch is changed into dextrin, the amount of manganic
acid increases, and an empyreumatic aromatic substance is formed.
According to the celebrated French chemist, PAYEN, the alimentary
properties of chocolate are fully proved. The cacao bean contains twice
as much azotic matter (nitrogen) as the best flour, about twenty-five
times more fatty matter, a notable portion of starch and a very
agreeable aroma, whilst the theobromine which it contains produces
appetite and facilitates digestion. This analysis of ingredients proves
effectually that it is endowed with nutritive power in an eminent
degree.
CHEVALIER, member of the Academy of Medicine and of the Board
of Health of Paris, in his treatise on Chocolate, declares that cacao
and chocolate are a complete food, and adds that “coffee and tea
are not food, but cacao gives one-third of its weight in starch and
one-half of its weight in cacao butter, and, converted into chocolate
by the addition of sugar, it realizes the idea of a complete aliment,
wholesome and eminently hygienic.
“The shells of the cacao bean contain the same principles as the
kernels, and the extract, obtained by infusion of the shells in
sweetened milk, forms a mixture at once agreeable to the taste and an
advantageous substitute for tea and coffee at the breakfast, lunch,
dinner and supper table.”
In a recent work by the chemist BOUSSINGAULT (April, 1883), we
read: “Chocolate possesses an essential quality—that of comprising in
a small bulk a large portion of nutritive matter.
“In Africa, rice, gum and shea butter help the Arab to cross the
desert; in the New World, cacao and chocolate make the heights of the
Andes and the vast American forests accessible to man.”
This is at once a perfect food and a most energetic tonic. There is
in fact in cacao, legumine, albumine and vegetable meat, associated
with fat, starch and sugar, which maintain respiratory combustion;
phosphates, the material of the bony system; and lastly, a precious
substance, Theobromine.
HUFFELAND, physician to the King of Prussia, said: “I recommend _good
chocolate_ to nervous, excitable persons; also to the weak, debilitated
and infirm; to children, to women; I have obtained excellent results
from it in many cases of chronic diseases of the digestive organs.”
The celebrated HUMBOLDT, in his narrative of travels, affirms
that chocolate possesses an essential quality, viz., that of containing
in a small compass a large proportion of the elements necessary to good
and healthy feeding.
FERNANDO CORTEZ, conqueror of Mexico, probably exaggerated its
value when he said: “He who has drunk a cup of Mexican chocolate, can
march all day without further nourishment,” but it is quite certain
that for long expeditions, as also when hunting, fishing or traveling,
especially when it is desirable to reduce the bulk and the weight of
the rations, chocolate offers incontestable advantages.
BARON LIEBIG, the great chemist and physician, said of chocolate: “It
is a perfect food, as wholesome as delicious, a beneficent restorer
of exhausted power, but its quality must be _good_, and its culinary
preparation must be _careful_; chocolate is a substance extremely
nourishing and easily digested, it is fitted to repair wasted strength,
to preserve health and prolong life. This salutary food agrees with dry
temperaments and convalescents; with mothers who nurse their children,
and with those whose occupations oblige them to undergo an extensive
strain of mind; with public speakers and with all those who give to
work a portion of the time needed for sleep. It soothes both stomach
and brain, and for this reason, as well as for others, it is the best
friend of literary men.”
VOLTAIRE, in his Encyclopædia, calls chocolate “milk for the
aged.”
BROUSSAIS, a celebrated physician, said: “Chocolate of _good quality_,
well made, and properly cooked, is one of the best aliments that I have
yet found for my patients and for myself. This delicious food calms
the fever, nourishes adequately the patient and tends to restore him
to health. I would even add that I attribute many cures of chronic
dyspepsia to the regular use of chocolate.”
BRILLAT-SAVARIN, the master of gastronomy, said: “Time and experiment
have demonstrated that _good chocolate_, _well-prepared_, is an
aliment as salutary as it is agreeable; that it is nourishing, of easy
digestion and is free from the objections found against coffee; that
it is very suitable to persons mentally overworked, to journalists
and travelers; it agrees with the most feeble and the most delicate
stomachs. A few persons complain of their inability to digest
chocolate; good and well-prepared chocolate should agree with any
stomach however weak might be its digestive power.”
During the wars of the French Empire the great Napoleon and many of the
officers of his staff passed entire days on horseback without other
nourishment than a tablet of good chocolate.
MANUFACTURE.
The manufacture of chocolate demands the most scrupulous care in the
selection of the different kinds of cacao beans, and the mode of mixing
them. A sustained and undivided attention must guide the manufacturer
in order to insure continuous perfection in quality.
Upon the arrival of cacaos in the factory all the bags are opened, and
their contents spread out in a well-aired apartment, in order to dry
the beans and to free them from all humidity previous to the roasting
process.
When thoroughly dried they are placed in a hopper of a separator,
having six compartments formed of metallic grating, whose meshes
being of unequal size mechanically separate the large grains from the
smaller, the flat from the round, and thoroughly free them from all
particles of dust and foreign substances, so that after this first
cleaning and picking the beans are ready for torrefaction (or delicate
roasting), in grains of equal size.
The cacao beans are then roasted in a spherical apparatus having a
rotary motion, heated by a slow and regular fire, whose temperature
does not exceed 130° F.
In roasting some qualities we use, with excellent results, an imported
steam roaster, ours being the only one used in the United States at the
present time.
Each kind of cacao bean is roasted in accordance with its natural
qualities, the maturity of the fruit, and the size of the kernel.
When the cacao beans are sufficiently cooled they are carried to the
hopper of a machine called, in French, _Tarare_ (which is a cracking
and fanning machine combined); they fall into the cracker, where they
are cracked and separated in different sizes by sieves and boards,
which conduct them to the different cases, where they are found
perfectly cleaned.
During the operation the wings of the ventilator, revolving with great
rapidity, carry off into a special room the shells and dust which have
been separated from the grain during the crushing process.
Theory, as well as experience, shows that the proper roasting of cacao
is indispensable to the manufacture of good chocolate. Cacao acquires
different qualities according to the degree of heat to which it is
submitted.
The Italians carry this roasting to excess: their chocolate is more
bitter; it dries and irritates the stomach. The Spanish scarcely
brown their cacaos; hence the aroma is slightly developed, and their
chocolate is more fatty with less flavor, and heavier for digestion.
The process used by the French is the best, being between these two
extremes, and hence their chocolate is reputed excellent, as gratifying
equally the senses of taste and smell. After very careful examination
of the various systems of manufacture, the French has been adopted by
the house of Huyler’s.
The cacao beans thus roasted, cleaned and separated into broken grains,
are then mixed together in the proportions desired, and herein lies the
secret of the manufacture. It is next carried to the drying room, and
from there to the _mélanger_ where it is subjected, along with sugar,
to a first trituration. It then passes on the refiners, which have
from three to five polished granite cylinders, where the chocolate is
subjected to a crushing sufficiently complete to produce a fineness
of quality, and so perfect a union of particles that will present a
chocolate paste of the most delicious taste, and which will melt or
dissolve in the mouth.
After this long-continued grinding to reduce it to the necessary
fineness, the paste is placed in the drying room, heated by steam from
80° to 100° F.
Then the paste having been mixed again in a special _mélanger_
is subjected to pressure in a screw press, in order to drive out the
air so as to insure the preservation of the chocolate. It is next
weighed out in half and quarter pounds, placed in molds on a table,
and submitted to a vigorous shaking, the effect of which is to make the
paste take the exact shape of the molds, which reproduce on the tablets
the name of _Huyler’s_. These molds are at once sent down into the
spacious cellar, specially constructed for the chocolate.
This cellar is flagged with immense stones, and surrounded with thick
flat stone tablets, sealed endwise into the wall, and extending as
shelves, on which the warm molds are deposited.
When the chocolate is ready to be taken from the molds it is sent up to
the folding room, where the employees first wrap it in pure tinfoil, to
keep out moisture and heat (the two great enemies of chocolate); it is
then wrapped, sealed, stamped, packed and put aside, waiting to be sent
to the salesrooms of the house.
As to the processes of manufacture they are under the supervision
of Mr. John S. Huyler, and watched also with attentive and delicate
care by a superintendent, whose great experience (here and in France)
in every branch of chocolate-making and profound knowledge of cacao
beans, assure to those products a uniformity of manufacture, as well as
qualities that invariably answer the description in the price-lists,
and respond in the most desirable manner to the tastes of the consumers.
CHOCOLATES.
If chocolate has not attained the universal popularity of coffee,
it is nevertheless its superior as a food product, at once hygienic
and agreeable. The place it should occupy in our regimen gives it an
importance, which is daily increasing; in place of poets it has its
historians, who are physicians, chemists, and famous gastronomists, and
whose eminent opinions, based on positive facts of science, have more
weight and authority than the fancies of the imagination or the whims
of fashion.
The use of chocolate was introduced into Spain from Mexico at the
beginning of the sixteenth century by the companions of Fernando
Cortez. Thence it crossed the Pyrenees in 1660, in the train of Maria
Theresa, spouse of Louis XIV. It was at first deemed a great luxury
to be enjoyed only at the tables of the kings, princes and wealthy
financiers of that period; but it gained popularity by degrees, and
to-day it has become an almost universal aliment known and praised by
every nation of Europe and America.
Chocolate can be used in various forms and generally agrees with all
palates. It figures at the feast as well as in the daily routine of
domestic life, in sickness as well as in health. It is taken with every
repast, at breakfast as well as supper, prepared either with water or
milk; at dinner in the form of _entremets_; at the soiree in ices,
bonbons and cakes; between meals, and especially while traveling, it is
eaten in the form of tablets, croquettes, sticks, wafers and cigarettes.
In England and the United States powdered cocoas are more extensively
used than chocolate in tablets. The best quality of the latter, in
which sugar has been incorporated through successive operations, should
be preferred and adopted in future for the use of families.
CULINARY PREPARATION OF CHOCOLATE.
Great care is necessary in the preparation of good chocolate, which,
from the delicate nature of its composition is very susceptible to
acquire bad flavor.
In cooking it, it is proper to employ, as far as possible, a
_chocolatiere_, or pan of silver, porcelain, or well plated copper; and
for stirring, a hardwood spatula or silver spoon should be invariably
used.
DIRECTIONS.
Break into small pieces the number of tablets corresponding to the
number of cups needed; put them into the pan and pour over them boiling
water in sufficient quantity to entirely cover the broken pieces of
chocolate; let the pan stand off the fire without stirring for a few
minutes, long enough to soften the chocolate; then gently crush the
contents until all is perfectly dissolved; after which place the pan
on a slow fire and add the necessary quantity of water and milk. Ten
minutes’ boiling will suffice to cook the chocolate; let it then simmer
near the fire for about five minutes or more without boiling.
NOTE.—Each half-pound cake is divided into six tablets, each
tablet being the right quantity for one large cup.
BRILLAT-SAVARIN, who was a true connoisseur in gastronomy, has given us
a receipt which he obtained from the Superior of the Convent of Belley:
When you wish to “take a good cup of chocolate,” he said, “make it
overnight in an earthen pot and leave it there, well covered; a night’s
repose concentrates it and gives it a velvety softness which renders it
perfect. In the morning heat it without boiling. Cold or iced chocolate
is also very agreeable.”
Chocolate may be lightened by the addition of water, or made more
nourishing by adding milk; but we recommend that it always be dissolved
with boiling water, and that, to dissolve it, not less than one-third
of the liquid needed for the complete preparation of the beverage be
used.
The mode of preparing powdered cacao, or chocolate without sugar, is
the same; only the necessary quantity of sugar and flavoring must be
added thereto according to taste.
NOTE.—Chocolates which thicken quickly and become like a sort of
paste in cooking are far from the best; they are lumpy, grainy and
are often combined with foreign substances. Good chocolate, on the
contrary, being composed only of cacao and sugar, should always
remain in a creamy state.
CONCLUSION.
The house of Huyler’s (whose _vogue_ daily increases, thanks to
the superior and varied quality of its confections and bonbons) has
at length attained the _desideratum_ for its chocolates, which
are appreciated and proclaimed the best. To reach this result nothing
has been neglected; no sacrifice or outlay in procuring the latest
and best machinery has been considered too great, and to-day Huyler’s
Chocolate Manufactory is as complete and well-organized as the greatest
establishments of the kind in Europe, and produces a thoroughly good
chocolate, which is unsurpassed in purity and delicacy of composition,
fineness of flavor and general excellence.
[Illustration]
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE
Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text,
and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.
Inconsistent hyphenations have been left as is.
Page 13. “Baron Leibig” replaced by “Baron Liebig”.
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