The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan: a compendium prepared by officers of the Sudan government, Vol. 2 (of 2)
This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
of the Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online
at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States,
you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located
before using this eBook.
Title: The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan: a compendium prepared by officers of the Sudan government, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Editor: Edward Gleichen
Release date: October 15, 2024 [eBook #74585]
Language: English
Original publication: London: His Majesty's Stationery Office
Credits: Galo Flordelis (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/University of Pretoria)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ANGLO-EGYPTIAN SUDAN: A COMPENDIUM PREPARED BY OFFICERS OF THE SUDAN GOVERNMENT, VOL. 2 (OF 2) ***
[_All rights reserved._
=THE ANGLO-EGYPTIAN SUDAN:=
=A COMPENDIUM PREPARED BY OFFICERS OF THE
SUDAN GOVERNMENT.=
EDITED BY
LIEUT.-COLONEL COUNT GLEICHEN, C.V.O., C.M.G., D.S.O.
(_Late Director of Intelligence, Sudan Government and Egyptian Army,
and Sudan Agent, Cairo._)
* * * * *
=VOLUME II.=
(ROUTES.)
* * * * *
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR HIS MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE,
BY HARRISON AND SONS, ST. MARTIN’S LANE,
PRINTERS IN ORDINARY TO HIS MAJESTY.
* * * * *
And to be purchased, either directly or through any Bookseller, from
WYMAN AND SONS, LTD., FETTER LANE E.C.; or
OLIVER & BOYD, EDINBURGH; or
E. PONSONBY, 116, GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN.
* * * * *
1905.
_Price Seven Shillings and Sixpence._
(Wt. 8207 1000 9 | 05—H & S 3874)
EDITORIAL NOTE TO VOLUME II.
* * * * *
The Routes in this Volume have been arranged according to the Chapters
in Vol. I.
Additional matter is given in the shape of an Appendix, describing the
main Routes leading out of the Sudan.
Almost the whole Volume has been edited by Captain H. H. S. Morant
(Assistant Director of Intelligence), to whom my best thanks are due;
Captain W. Lloyd is chiefly responsible for the excellent Routes in
Kordofan.
Intermediate places where water is to be found (except those obviously
on a river) are given in italics.
[It being impossible to provide a map showing even all the terminal
places mentioned, intending travellers are referred to the map at the
end of Vol. I, and to the Sudan Ordnance Survey Maps (scale,
1:250,000), a list of which is given in Vol. I, p. 349.]
A certain number of copies of each Chapter in this Volume have been
printed and bound separately in strong paper covers for practical use
when travelling. Application in Egypt should be made to the Director
of Intelligence, Egyptian War Office, Cairo, or to any Bookseller in
Great Britain, of whom copies may be obtained, price One Shilling each.
G.
_Berlin, 2nd April_, 1905.
=TABLE OF CONTENTS.=
* * * * *
VOL. II. (PART III.)
(ROUTES.)
* * * * *
CHAPTERS I AND II.
_Nil._
CHAPTER III.
NORTH-EASTERN SUDAN.
PAGE
No. 1. — No. 6 Station to Deraheib. (_Talbot_) 1
„ 2. — Suakin to Berber — (α) Northerly route. (_Sparkes_) 5
(β) Southerly „ „ 9
„ 3. — Berber to Kassala. (_Various_) 12
„ 4. — Suakin to Tokar. (_Various_) 14
„ 5. — Trinkitat to Tokar. (_Bower_) 15
„ 6. — Suakin to Erkowit — (α) _viâ_ Tamaneb and K. Arab.
(_Powell_) 16
(β) _viâ_ Kolkalai Pass.
(_Powell_) 16
„ 7. — Erkowit to Sinkat — (α) _viâ_ Baramil Plains.
(_Powell_) 17
(β) _viâ_ K. Gebet. (_Powell_) 17
„ 8. — Kassala to Suakin, _viâ_ Filik and Maman. (_Mitford_) 18
„ 9. — Tokar to Kassala, _viâ_ K. Baraka. (_Various_) 22
„ 10. — Kassala to Maman direct. (_Morant_) 26
„ 11. — Adarama to Bir Oshi (K. Langeb). (_Kenrick_) 27
„ 12. — El Getite to Adarama. (_Kenrick_) 29
„ 13. — Umbrega to Sofi. (_Morant_) 30
N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:—
No. 123. — Aswan to Deraheib. (Appendix) 195
„ 19. — Gedaref to Kassala. (Chap. IV) 41
„ 14. — Khartoum N. to Kassala. (Chap. IV) 32
„ 124. — Kassala to Massaua. (Appendix) 196
„ 125. — Takarashorit to Umbrega. (Appendix) 200
CHAPTER IV.
EASTERN SUDAN.
No. 14. — Khartoum N. to Kassala, _viâ_ Geili, Rera and
Asubri. (_Talbot_, _Boulnois_ and _Morant_) 32
„ 15. — Goz Regeb to Shendi, _viâ_ Abu Deleig. (_Boulnois_) 36
„ 16. — El Damer to Fasher. (_Bulkeley Johnson_) 36
„ 17. — Khartoum N. to Abu Deleig. (_Native information_) 39
„ 18. — Rufaa to Geili. (_Talbot_) 40
„ 19. — Gedaref to Kassala. (_Mitford_ and _Morant_) 41
„ 20. — „ Gallabat. (_Collinson_ and _Morant_) 43
„ 21. — Abu Haraz to Gedaref. (_Mitford_) 45
„ 22. — Gedaref, _viâ_ Hawata, to Abu Haraz. (_Bulkeley 47
Johnson_)
„ 23. — Sofi _viâ_ Abu Gulud to Seraf Said. (_Smith_) 48
„ 24. — Famaka to Abu Ramla. (_Gwynn_) 49
„ 25. — Karkoj to Hawata. (_Bonham Carter_) 50
„ 26. — Roseires to Abu Shaneina. (_Gwynn_) 50
„ 27. — Senga, _viâ_ Durraba, to Um El Rug. (_Amery_) 51
„ 28. — Mouth of Khor Gelagu (Dinder) to Gallabat. (_Amery_) 52
„ 29. — Gallabat to Wad Medani, _viâ_ R. Rahad. (_Lewin_) 53
„ 30. — Itinerary of Blue Nile. (_Amery_) 57
N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:—
No. 126. — Gallabat to Chelga. (Appendix) 202
„ 127. — Lake Tsana (Goja) to Gandoa. (Appendix) 204
„ 128. — Addis Abbaba to Gallabat. (Appendix) 206
„ 130. — Roseires to Dunkur. (Appendix) 215
„ 131. — Dunkur to Gallabat. (Appendix) 217
CHAPTER V.
CENTRAL SUDAN.
No. 31. — Khartoum to Wad Medani, Sennar, Senga and Karkoj (L.
B. Blue Nile). (_Compiled_) 61
„ 32. — Khartoum to Goz Abu Guma and Jebelein, _viâ_ R. B.
White Nile. (_Conolly, Boulnois_) 63
„ 33. — „ Gule, _viâ_ Managil and Segadi.
(_Morant_) 66
„ 34. — Managil to Sennar. (_Smyth_) 70
„ 35. — Keili, _viâ_ Gule, to Senga. (_Gorringe_) 70
„ 36. — Senga to Jerok, _viâ_ K. Ofat. (_Roberts_) 71
„ 37. — Roseires to Keili, _viâ_ Gule. (_Smith_) 73
„ 38. — Fazogli to Gezan. (_Jackson_) 73
„ 39. — Gezan to Kurmuk. (_Gwynn_) 75
„ 40. — Gule to Renk. (_Morant_) 75
„ 41. — Jebelein to Renk. (_Wilson_) 76
„ 42. — Renk to Kaka Old Wood Station. (_Morant_) 77
„ 43. — „ Kodok (R. B.) partly along Telegraph
line. (_Wilson_) 79
„ 44. — J. Ahmed Agha to Awitong and Kash-Kash. (_Wilson_) 82
„ 45. — Itinerary up Khor Adar. (_Wilson_) 83
„ 46. — J. Jerok to Wad Deluka (52 miles S.E. of Melut).
(_Smith_) 84
„ 47. — Uryong (Sobat) to opposite Kodok. (_Gwynn_) 85
N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:—
No. 133. — Kirin to Kodok. (Appendix) 222
„ 132. — Fazogli to Kirin. (Appendix) 218
„ 129. — Addis Abbaba to Famaka. (Appendix) 210
CHAPTER VI.
SOUTH-EASTERN SUDAN.
No. 48. — Nasser to Uryong. (_Gwynn_) 87
„ 49. — Gokjak to Keik (Khor Filus). (_Wilson_) 88
„ 50. — Itinerary up the Bahr El Zeraf. (_Stanton_) 90
N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:—
No. 47. — Uryong to opposite Kodok. (Chapter V) 85
„ 134. — K. Bosuk, _viâ_ K. Eine, to Goha. (Appendix) 225
„ 135. — Goha, _viâ_ K. Barsu, to Bosuk. (Appendix) 225
„ 136. — Camp (K. Bosuk) to Asosa. (Appendix) 226
„ 137. — Asosa to K. Bosuk, _viâ_ K. Surgalla. (Appendix) 227
„ 138. — Gore to Abwong. (Appendix) 227
CHAPTER VII.
BAHR EL GHAZAL.
No. 51. — Meshra el Rek to Tonj. (_Lloyd_) 93
„ 52. — Wau to Meshra el Rek. (_Lloyd_) 94
„ 53. — Tonj Post to Wau. (_Lloyd_) 95
„ 54. — Tonj Post to Rikta’s Village. (_Lloyd_) 97
„ 55. — Wau to Tembura. (_Bethel_) 99
„ 56. — Wau to Deim Zubeir. (_Boulnois_ and _Sparkes_) 100
„ 57. — Chak Chak to Deim Zubeir. (_Fell_) 101
„ 58. — Deim Zubeir to Kossinga. (_Boulnois_) 102
„ 59. — Kossinga to Wau. (_Boulnois_) 103
„ 60. — „ Hofrat el Nahas. (_Sparkes_) 104
„ 61. — Ragaa to Deim Zubeir. (_Sparkes_) 105
„ 62. — Kojali to Tonj. (_Sparkes_) 106
„ 63. — Tonj to Rumbek. (_Armstrong_) 107
„ 64. — Rumbek to Shambe. (_Armstrong_) 108
„ 65. — Rumbek to Darago’s and M’volo. (_Wood_) 109
„ 66. — M’volo to Kiro. (_Sparkes_) 109
„ 67. — Rumbek to Awodi. (_Armstrong_) 111
„ 68. — „ Mangi’s. (_Boardman_) 113
N.B.—Another route which applies to this chapter is:—
No. 101. — El Obeid to Dar El Jange. (Chapter VIII) 151
CHAPTER VIII.
KORDOFAN.
No. 69. — Sheikh Sadik to Homra. (_Various_) 117
„ 70. — El Dueim to Homra. (_Various_) 117
„ 71. — Homra to El Obeid, _viâ_ Bara. (_Various_) 118
„ 72. — El Dueim to Obeid, _viâ_ Hashaba. (_Lloyd_ and
_More_) 119
„ 73. — Gedid to El Dueim, _viâ_ Um Deisis. (_Lloyd_ and
_Talbot_) 120
„ 74. — Shat Wells to El Obeid, _viâ_ J. Kon. (_Talbot_ and
_Lloyd_) 120
„ 75. — Shawal to Gedid, Dar El Ahamda and Tagale. (_Morant_) 122
„ 76. — Goz Abu Guma to Dar El Ahamda. (_Morant_) 124
„ 77. — „ „ El Obeid, _viâ_ Sherkeila and
Rahad. (_Leveson_) 125
„ 78. — Gedid to El Rahad. (_Lloyd_) 126
„ 79. — Kaka to opposite Jebelein. (_Wilson_) 127
„ 80. — Omdurman to El Safia Wells. (_Smyth_) 129
„ 81. — Debba to El Obeid, _viâ_ Safia. (_Currie_) 130
„ 82. — Shegeig to El Showa, _viâ_ Kagmar. (_Lloyd_) 131
„ 83. — Bara to Kagmar. (_Lloyd_) 132
„ 84. — El Obeid to Foga, _viâ_ Masrub. (_Lloyd_) 133
„ 85. — „ „ _viâ_ Gleit, etc. (_Carter_) 134
„ 86. — Abu Agaga to Bara. (_O’Connell_) 135
„ 87. — Foga to Kaja (Bir Soderi). (_Mahon_) 136
„ 88. — Nahud to El Fasher. (_Carter_) 137
„ 89. — „ Bur Islam. (_Townsend_) 137
„ 90. — „ Foga. (_Lloyd_ and _Wilkinson_) 138
„ 91. — Foga to Um Badr. (_Wilkinson_) 139
„ 92. — Bara to Foga. (_O’Connell_) 140
„ 93. — Nahud to El Eddaiya and Muglad. (_Mahon_) 141
„ 94. — Foga to El Eddaiya, _viâ_ Kaja Serrug. (_Carter_) 142
„ 95. — El Obeid to Nahud (direct). (_Meyricke_) 143
„ 96. — „ „ _viâ_ Abu Zabbat.
(_Lloyd_ and _Townsend_) 144
„ 97. — „ El Eddaiya, _viâ_ Sungikai. (_Lloyd_
and _Townsend_) 145
„ 98. — „ Keraia (J. Tagale), _viâ_ J. Daier.
(_Various_) 146
„ 99. — Keraia to Rashad and Gedir. (_Various_) 148
„ 100. — Kaka to Gedir. (_Mahon_) 148
„ 101. — El Obeid to Dar El Jange. (_Wilkinson_) 151
„ 102. — River Kir to Fauwel. (_Wilkinson_) 156
„ 103. — El Obeid to Sungikai, _viâ_ El Atshan. (_Lyall_) 157
„ 104. — Dilling to El Obeid, _viâ_ Sungikai, etc. (_Lyall_) 157
„ 105. — Routes in Dar Nuba. (_Leveson_) 158
CHAPTER IX.
NORTH-WESTERN SUDAN.
No. 106. — Selima to Nile, opposite Kosha. (_Hodgson_) 167
„ 107. — Dongola to Lagia El Kebir. (_Hodgson_) 167
„ 108. — „ Bir Sultan. (_Hodgson_) 169
„ 109. — Debba to El Obeid. (_Compiled_) 171
„ 110. — „ Omdurman. (_Ravenscroft_) 172
„ 111. — „ „ _viâ_ Elai. (_Compiled_) 174
„ 112. — Ambugol or Korti to Metemma. (_Compiled_) 174
„ 113. — Korti to Bayuda and Sedeiri. (_Bunbury_ and _Sudley_) 178
„ 114. — Merowe to Jakdul. (_Talbot_) 179
„ 115. — „ Berber. (_Smyth_ and _Friend_) 181
„ 116. — Sani to El Zuma, _viâ_ Jura. (_Henry_) 181
„ 117. — Jura to Kirbekan. (_Henry_) 182
„ 118. — Omdurman to Gabra. (_Talbot_) 183
„ 119. — Gabra to Korti. (_Talbot_) 184
„ 120. — Korti to Bayuda Wells. (_Talbot_) 186
„ 121. — Bayuda Wells to Tangasi. (_Talbot_) 187
N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:—
No. 81. — Debba to El Obeid, _viâ_ Safia. (Chapter VIII) 130
„ 122. — Arbain Road. (Appendix) 189
APPENDIX.
ROUTES PARTLY OUTSIDE THE SUDAN.
No. 122. — The Arbain Road. (_Various_) 189
„ 123. — Aswan to Deraheib. (_Bramly_) 195
„ 124. — Kassala to Massaua. (_Morant_) 196
„ 125. — Takarashorit (K. Gash) to Umbrega (Setit). (_Morant_) 200
„ 126. — Gallabat to Chelga. (_Parker_) 202
„ 127. — Lake Tsana (Goja) to Gandoa. (_Parker_) 204
„ 128. — Addis Abbaba, _viâ_ Gojjam and L. Tsana, to
Gallabat. (_Baird_) 206
„ 129. — „ to Famaka. (_Gwynn_) 210
„ 130. — Roseires to Abu Ramla and Dunkur. (_Gwynn_) 215
„ 131. — Dunkur to Gallabat. (_Gwynn_) 217
„ 132. — Fazogli to Kirin. (_Jackson_) 218
„ 133. — Kirin to Kodok. (_Gwynn_) 222
„ 134. — K. Bosuk, _viâ_ K. Eine, to Goha. (_Smith_) 225
„ 135. — Goha, _viâ_ K. Barsu, to Bosuk. (_Smith_) 225
„ 136. — Camp (K. Bosuk) to Asosa. (_Smith_) 226
„ 137. — Asosa to K. Bosuk, _viâ_ Surgalla. (_Smith_) 227
„ 138. — Gore to Abwong. (_Wilson_) 227
„ 139. — Gondokoro to Uganda. (_Dugmore_) 231
„ 140. — Roads in the Lado Enclave. (_Various_) 236
=PART III.=
=ROUTES.=
* * * * *
CHAPTERS I. AND II.
(_Nil._)
CHAPTER III.
(NORTH-EASTERN SUDAN.)
* * * * *
1.—NO. 6 STATION (S.G.R.) TO DERAHEIB.
BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., DECEMBER, 1902.
[Sidenote: General.]
The road described below is only one of several that might have been
taken, but I believe it is perhaps the most direct. The portions
between No. 6 and Murrat, and along the Wadi Alagi must be common to
all routes.
[Sidenote: Nature of road.]
There are no gradients on the road sufficiently steep to form a serious
obstacle to laden camels, but there are a good many places after the
Wadi Abu Bard is left, where the stony nature of the road is trying
for the feet of plains camels, though the camels of the country seem
to make nothing of it.
[Sidenote: Water.]
Water is scarce and not always good. If marching with hamla,[1]
arrangements should be made to carry at least two nights’ water.
[Sidenote: Fuel and shade.]
Once the W. Telat Abda has been reached, fuel and shade can always be
obtained with very little management. Till then there is practically
no shade. No fuel between No. 6 and Murrat; a little between Murrat
and W. Telat Abda.
[Sidenote: Grain.]
No grain is obtainable. Sheep and goats and some milk can be obtained
wherever Arabs are met with. The position of the Arabs and their
flocks depends on the season of the year, and the distribution of
the previous year’s rainfall.
---------+---------------+---------------+----------------------------
| Hamda Hours. | Miles. |
Place. +--------+------+--------+------+ Description.
| Inter- |Total.| Inter- |Total.|
|mediate.| |mediate.| |
---------+--------+------+--------+------+----------------------------
_No. 6 | — | — | — | — |No. 6 Station on Halfa-
Station | | | | |Khartoum Railway, 127 miles
(S.G.R.)_| | | | |from Halfa, and 1,555 feet
| | | | |above sea level.
| | | | |
| | | | |British foreman. Telegraph
| | | | |office.
| | | | |
| | | | |No station buildings nor
| | | | |accommodation for persons
| | | | |detained there.
| | | | |
| | | | |Well with steam pump gives
| | | | |12,000 gallons daily. Water
| | | | |contains some salts, but
| | | | |drinkable. Nile water can be
| | | | |obtained for small parties
| | | | |from station supply. Some
| | | | |“selem” bushes give firewood
| | | | |and a little grazing for
| | | | |camels. No inhabitants
| | | | |except railway staff. No
| | | | |supplies.
| | | | |
| | | | |Is the base of the staff of
| | | | |the Egypt and Sudan Mining
| | | | |Syndicate now developing Um
| | | | |Nabari or Nabadi mine.
| | | | |
| | | | |The track, now pretty well
| | | | |marked, makes straight for
| | | | |the N. end of J. Keheli,
| | | | |after rounding which it
| | | | |makes for J. Mindara,
| | | | |keeping a couple of miles to
| | | | |the N. of it. Road
| | | | |practically level and mostly
| | | | |good trotting surface,
| | | | |though sand a little heavy
| 7 | 7 | — | — |in places.
| | | | |
| 3¼ | 10¼ | — | — |Road crosses a low saddle
| | | | |and descends into one of the
| | | | |branches of the Wadi Murrat,
| | | | |amongst a lot of low tangled
| | | | |hills. After following the
| | | | |wadi for 300 yards or so,
| | | | |another saddle is crossed to
| | | | |cut off a bend, after which
| | | | |the wadi is followed till it
| | | | |joins the main wadi, just
| | | | |before the fort of Murrat is
| | | | |reached.
| | | | |
_Murrat_ | 1 | 11¼ | — | 34 |The engineer of the Egypt
| | | | |and Sudan Mining Syndicate
| | | | |has fitted a pump in one of
| | | | |the wells in the wadi, which
| | | | |gives cleaner, though not
| | | | |less bitter water than
| | | | |before. The Arabs and
| | | | |Berberi servants drink it
| | | | |uncomplainingly, but
| | | | |Europeans are advised to
| | | | |avoid it if they can. About
| | | | |10 miles slightly N. of W.
| | | | |up the main Wadi Murrat is
| | | | |the site of the Um Nabari or
| | | | |Nabadi mine, now being
| | | | |developed by the Company.
| | | | |Road quite easy along the
| | | | |wadi.
| | | | |
| | | 1½ | 35½ |On leaving Murrat fort the
| | | | |track keeps down the wadi
| 1 | 12¼ | 1½ | 37 |for 1½ miles, then turns off
| | | | |to the left over somewhat
| | | | |stony ground, and, crossing
| | | | |a saddle and the head of
| | | | |another affluent of the Wadi
| 1¾ | 14 | 4 | 41 |Murrat about 1½ miles
| | | | |further on, descends easily
| | | | |into the basin of the Wadi
| | | | |Dayob. Across slightly
| | | | |undulating ground, aiming
| | | ½ | 41½ |just to the left of J. Abu
| | | | |Dayob, a rocky sand-covered
| | | | |hill (with a pillar on the
| | | | |top) which, though only 200
| | | | |or 300 feet high, stands up
| | | | |well amidst its
| | | | |surroundings, and turns down
| | | | |the wadi past its northern
| | | | |foot.
| | | | |
| ½ | 14½ | ½ | 42 |Along the wadi passing a
| | | | |gorge about 50 yards wide;
| | | | |wadi then turns rather to
| | | | |S.E. There is some camel
| | | | |grazing here.
| | | | |
| | | | |Road now turns to left out
| | | | |of wadi, and, after crossing
| | | | |low ridges for about one
| | | | |hour and passing near some
| 1 | 15½ | — | — |“selem” bushes in one of the
| | | | |wadis, enters a plain ½ to 1
| | | | |mile broad, and heads
| | | | |generally for J. Kerar
| | | | |Berar.
| | | | |
| ½ | 16 | 3¾ | 45¾ |Half-a-mile further on J.
| | | | |Mosiai (pillar on top) is at
| | | | |right angles about 1 to 2
| | | | |miles distant on left.
| | | | |
| 1½ | 17½ | — | — |Track leaves plain over low
| | | | |ridges and descends by
| 1 | 18½ | — | — |gentle slope obliquely to
| | | | |Wadi Mosiai. There are a few
| 1¾ | 20¼ | — | — |of the peculiar dom palms of
| | | | |the country above where wadi
| | | | |is struck, and a little
| | | | |“selem” and some scrubby
| | | | |plants below. Track keeps
| | | | |down wadi generally, till it
| | | | |gets well clear of the low
| | | | |hills, when it turns half
| | | | |left over open plain, good
| | | | |going, and passes an
| | | | |isolated patch of “selem”
| | | | |bushes in Gabgaba.
| | | | |
W. | 2 | 22¼ | 16 | 61¾ |The bed of the Gabgaba is ¾
Gabgaba | | | | |to 1½ miles wide in places,
| | | | |consisting of several
| | | | |channels separated by flat
| | | | |gravel. The bed itself is
| | | | |sandy, honeycombed with rat
| | | | |holes, and very bad going.
| | | | |Immense quantities of the
| | | | |“handal” plant grow in it,
| | | | |and in years of good
| | | | |rainfall dura is cultivated.
| | | | |
| | | | |Track, leaving the wadi half
| | | | |right, keeps over a gravel
| | | | |plain with gentle slopes
| | | | |till it strikes the W. Telat
| | | | |Abda just outside the low
| 2¼ | 24½ | 6 | 67¾ |hills.
| | | | |
| | | | |There is plenty of “selem”
| | | | |in the wadi, giving good
| | | | |camel grazing and abundance
| | | | |of firewood.
| | | | |
_Bir | 3 | 27½ | 8¼ | 76 |Track keeps up wadi,
Telat | | | | |occasionally making short
Abda_ | | | | |cuts to right to get better
| | | | |going, as wadi is heavy in
| | | | |places, to well at foot of
| | | | |rather higher hill on left
| | | | |bank which has two stone
| | | | |pillars.
| | | | |
| | | | |The well gives good water,
| | | | |but not very much of it.
| | | | |About ¼ mile higher up under
| | | | |the right bank where the
| | | | |wadi forks is another well
| | | | |generally used for watering
| | | | |camels. From here the roads
| | | | |to Abu Tabag and Naba
| | | | |branch. That to Naba keeps
| | | | |straight on, that is up the
| | | | |right-hand branch of the
| | | | |fork. Naba is about 17 miles
| | | | |from Telat Abda, whence it
| | | | |draws its drinking water.
| | | | |Near Telat Abda well is a
| | | | |sayal tree that gives good
| | | | |shade.
| | | | |
| | | | |The track starts up the Khor
| | | | |Liseiwi, or left-hand branch
| | | | |of the fork, past the upper
| | | | |well, but soon turns to
| | | | |right from it to cut off a
| | | | |corner, and drops into the
| | | | |khor again at a water hole
| | | | |(generally dry) under Jebel
_J. | 3 | 30½ | 6 | 82 |Liseiwi (marked by a
Liseiwi_ | | | | |pillar).
| | | | |
W. | 2 | 32½ | 6 | 88 |Keeps up khor and, crossing
Abaraga | | | | |a low saddle, descends into
| | | | |Wadi Abaraga.
| | | | |
| ¼ | 32¾ | ¾ | 88¾ |Keeps up wadi, which is well
| | | | |wooded with selem, sayal and
| | | | |the single-stemmed fan palm
| | | | |(_Medemia argun_), and
| ½ | 33¼ | 1½ | 90¼ |passes some wells close
| | | | |under left bank. The wadi
| | | | |flows through very broken
| | | | |low hills, 200 to 400 feet
| | | | |high.
| | | | |
| 1¼ | 34½ | 3½ | 93¾ |Track issues on to open
| | | | |space where the hills recede
| | | | |and wadis come in from all
| | | | |directions.
| | | | |
| — | — | 4 | 97¾ |Track now turns N.E.,
| | | | |passing between some low
| | | | |hills over gravelly plain,
| — | — | 4¼ | 102 |and turns S.E. up wadi, now
| | | | |confined between rounded
| | | | |reddish hills. The palms
| | | | |have now ceased, but selem
| | | | |is still found. The hills
| | | | |soon get lower and wadi less
| | | | |confined.
| | | | |
| — | — | 4½ | 106½ |A track from Hesmet Omar.
| | | | |
| — | — | 2¼ | 108¾ |Saddle at head of Wadi
| | | | |Abaraga is reached, easy
| | | | |ascent and descent commenced
| | | | |over gently sloping gravel
Wadi Abu | 7¾ | 42¼ | 2¼ | 111 |to the Wadi Abu Bard which
Bard | | | | |flows through an open valley
| | | | |2 to 3 miles wide. Plenty of
| | | | |wood in wadi.
| | | | |
| — | — | 2 | 113 |The same direction is
| | | | |continued across the wadi
| — | — | 3½ | 116½ |till a low saddle is
| | | | |crossed, and track descends
| | | | |a branch of Abu Bard for a
| | | | |little more than a mile;
| | | | |then across an open space
| | | | |N.E. up an affluent of the
| | | | |same branch till it crosses
| | | | |a low saddle at its head and
| | | | |descends into an affluent of
| | | | |the Wadi Hesmet Omar. This
| | | | |part is very stony and
| | | | |severe on plains camels,
| | | | |though the gradients are not
| | | | |heavy. The track keeps down
| | | | |the valley, crossing a
| | | | |couple of affluents bounded
| | | | |by low hills, till it
| | | | |reaches another low, but
| | | | |stony saddle, whence it
| | | | |descends into and crosses an
| | | | |affluent of the Wadi Abu
| | | | |Tabag or Wadi Ga; after
| — | — | 5 | 121½ |another 2 miles of stony
| | | | |ground the track descends
| — | — | 2 | 123½ |into another branch of the
| | | | |Abu Tabag wadi, which it
_Abu | 5½ | 47¾ | 2 | 125½ |follows till it reaches the
Tabag_ | | | | |well.
| | | | |
| | | | |The valley opens out a bit
| | | | |here, though immediately
| | | | |over the well there are low
| | | | |hills which still carry the
| | | | |breastworks erected by
| | | | |Beshir Bey’s men as a
| | | | |protection against
| | | | |dervishes.
| | | | |
| | | | |The well is about 20 feet
| | | | |deep, of which the lower 12
| | | | |feet, is revetted with
| | | | |stone. Plenty of water. Many
| | | | |small partridges.
| | | | |
| | | | |An Inspector’s rest house
| | | | |has been built here. Some
| | | | |fine sayal trees.
| | | | |
| | | | |There are a number of dom
| | | | |palms trying to come up, but
| | | | |none have succeeded in
| | | | |showing any trunk yet.
| | | | |
| | | | |The wadi here is, I believe,
| | | | |called the Wadi Ga, but I am
| | | | |not sure.
| | | | |
Wadi Ga | — | — | 2 | 127½ |The track continues down the
| | | | |wadi for 2 miles and turns
| | | | |off to the left over flat
| | | | |and undulating ground; easy
| | | | |going for some miles, the
| 4¼ | 52 | 10 | 137½ |general direction being a
| | | | |little to the left of J.
| | | | |Kirmai, crosses the Wadi Ga
| | | | |(plenty of selem) and cuts
| | | | |over a low saddle at the
| | | | |north end of Kirmai.
| | | | |
Wadi Abu | — | — | 2 | 139½ |After about 2 more miles,
Kitabab | | | | |heavy going, over sand-
| | | | |covered ridges the track
| | | | |descends into the Wadi Abu
| | | | |Kitabab, which joins the
| | | | |Wadi Ga about 1½ miles below
| | | | |where the track crosses it.
| | | | |There are plenty of trees of
| | | | |several different sorts.
| | | | |
| 2 | 54 | 3 | 142½ |Road continues up wadi for 3
| | | | |miles to a point where it
| | | | |forks.
| | | | |
| | | | |The southern branch is also
| | | | |called Abu Kitabab. The
| | | | |track to Sohanit and Onib,
| | | | |viâ _Mashushenai well_ (very
| | | | |little water), ascends it.
| | | | |The other branch is called
| | | | |Ebeirid. After ascending it
| — | — | 4 | 146½ |for 4 miles, low saddle is
| | | | |crossed; after 4½ more miles
| | | | |of mostly very stony ground,
| | | | |ending in a short and very
Wadi | 3½ | 57½ | 4½ | 151 |rough descent, the Wadi
Abdelala | | | | |Abdelala is reached. This
| | | | |wadi is here well wooded.
| | | | |Lots of marakh. The track
| | | | |ascends it a short distance
| | | | |and then turns up a side
| | | | |khor, out of it to left into
| | | | |another and over an easy
| | | | |saddle down into Wadi Bitna
| | | | |or Butna; confined bed, high
| | | | |hills on right bank.
| | | | |
| 1½ | 59 | 4½ | 155½ |Top of Mashushenai just
| | | | |visible, a few selem and a
| | | | |good many samr trees.
| | | | |
| | | | |Track keeps down wadi,
| | | | |cutting off one or two
| | | | |corners, stony, but not very
| | | | |bad going. The bed gets
| | | | |narrower and low cliffs more
| | | | |perpendicular till wells are
| | | | |reached at a place where a
| | | | |projecting cliff appears to
| | | | |bar the passage. Just before
| | | | |reaching it some tombs are
_Wells_ | 1½ | 60½ | 4 | 159½ |passed.
| | | | |
| | | | |There are two wells or water
| | | | |holes about 5 feet in
| | | | |diameter, surface of water 6
| | | | |feet below bed of wadi. Lots
| | | | |of good water.
| | | | |
| | | | |The track continues,
| | | | |original direction, for
| | | | |about ½ mile and then turns
| | | | |E., and a mile further on
| | | | |meets the Wadi Elei coming
| | | | |from the S.E. The united
| | | | |wadi now flows a little E.
| | | | |of N., the hills diminish
| | | | |and the valley increases in
| | | | |width and the vegetation
| | | | |decreases. After 2 miles the
| | | | |track turns off to right, up
| | | | |what was a good track a year
| | | | |or so ago, but is now barred
| | | | |by waves of sand. After some
| | | | |three miles, most part of
| | | | |which is very heavy going,
| | | | |the track descends into the
| | | | |broad and ill defined bed of
| | | | |an affluent of the Wadi
| 2 | 62½ | 4½ | 164 |Elei. Little grazing.
| | | | |
| | | | |Over bare undulating plain,
| | | | |dotted with hummocky ridges
| | | | |of decomposed granite more
| 3½ | 66 | 10 | 174 |or less covered with sand.
| | | | |Good going till a low and
| | | | |easy watershed is crossed
Wadi | 1¼ | 67¼ | 3 | 177 |and track descends easily to
Nasari | | | | |Wadi Nasari, a broad well
| | | | |wooded wadi that comes from
| | | | |Jebel Sohanit, and joins the
Wadi | 1½ | 68¾ | 4 | 181 |Alagi a few miles N. of
Alagi | | | | |where the track strikes it.
| | | | |Track crosses wadi in the
| | | | |direction of Jebel Eigat
| | | | |and, passing through some
| | | | |low hills, reaches the Wadi
| | | | |Alagi. Track quite easy.
| | | | |
| | | | |The Wadi Alagi here is at
| | | | |least ½ mile wide, bounded
| | | | |by low hills on both banks,
| | | | |but rising higher behind on
| | | | |the right bank. It contains
| | | | |many refreshingly green
| | | | |trees of several sorts,
| | | | |marakh, heglig, sayal, sidr,
| | | | |arak, &c.
| | | | |
_Wadi | 2 | 70¾ | 6 | 187 |Up wadi, which narrows to
Taimurit_| | | | |about 300 to 400 yards. It
| | | | |is joined on the left bank
| | | | |by a khor called Taimurit,
| | | | |up which there is a
| | | | |waterhole, good water. On
| | | | |the right bank opposite it
| | | | |is a hill conspicuously
| | | | |higher than the majority of
| | | | |those that overhang the
| | | | |wadi.
| | | | |
| | | | |On both banks are remains of
| | | | |houses, and a quartz reef is
| | | | |conspicuous on the left
| | | | |bank. The latitude of
| | | | |junction of Taimurit and
| | | | |Alagi is 22° 1′ 11″, so
| | | | |most, if not all, the reef
| | | | |is north of 22°. It shows
| | | | |marks of having been
| | | | |prospected.
| | | | |
_Wadi | 1 | 71¾ | 3 | 190 |One hour further on, where
Neshd_ | | | | |the wadi changes the
| | | | |direction of its flow from
| | | | |S.W. to N.W., some tombs
| | | | |close under the right bank
| | | | |are a landmark for the Wadi
| | | | |Neshd, which comes in on the
| | | | |left bank opposite. There is
| | | | |good water in the Wadi
| | | | |Neshd.
| | | | |
| | | | |The wadi now begins to wind
| | | | |more. Two hours further on
_Wadi | 2 | 73¾ | 6 | 196 |the Wadi Kamotit on right
Kamotit_ | | | | |bank is passed. There is
| | | | |good water a short way up
| | | | |it.
| | | | |
Deraheib | 4¼ | 78 | 12 | 208 |The wadi now begins to
| | | | |wriggle about without,
| | | | |however, much decreasing in
| | | | |width. The hills on either
| | | | |side continue to be of no
| | | | |great height, and in one or
| | | | |two places the track crosses
| | | | |low saddles to cut off
| | | | |corners; good trees all the
| | | | |way.
| | | | |
| | | | |At Deraheib is a ruined
| | | | |castle of stone set in mud,
| | | | |with two or three pointed
| | | | |arches set in lime. Another
| | | | |building of nearly equal
| | | | |size in plan, but not so
| | | | |high, and the ruins of a
| | | | |number of houses and
| | | | |shelters are on the left
| | | | |bank. On the right bank,
| | | | |nearly opposite, are a
| | | | |number of ruined stone
| | | | |houses arranged in streets,
| | | | |and covering 3 to 4 acres.
| | | | |They are built in stone and
| | | | |mud, but a few arches in
| | | | |lime are to be seen. The
| | | | |ruins are evidently greatly
| | | | |filled in and might possibly
| | | | |repay excavation. There are
| | | | |small stone shelters of the
| | | | |same kind up various khors.
_Water_ | — | — | — | — |The _nearest water_ now is 2
| | | | |or 3 miles off up a wadi
| | | | |that joins the left bank of
| | | | |the Alagi about 1½ miles
| | | | |further up.
| | | | |
| | | | |The latitude of the N.W.
| | | | |corner of the ruined castle
| | | | |is 21° 56′ 48·5″.
| | | | |
| | | | |On the low hills on left
| | | | |bank, within ½ mile of the
| | | | |fort, are a number of shafts
| | | | |sunk in the reef which is
| | | | |here very apparent. In
| | | | |December there were very few
| | | | |Arabs in the Wadi Alagi. In
| | | | |the summer there are many.
| | | | |
| | | | |The rate of the hamla has
| | | | |been taken at 2½ to 3 miles
| | | | |per hour, as, I think, my
| | | | |camels went. Neither times
| | | | |nor distances, therefore,
| | | | |can be relied on absolutely.
---------+--------+------+--------+------+----------------------------
2.—SUAKIN TO BERBER.
[Sidenote: Roads.]
There are two main routes between Suakin and Berber, both joining at
Obak. The first, _viâ_ Tambuk—Dissibil—Kokreb—Ariab and Obak,
the most northerly of the two, is the usual caravan route. Major Prout
(1877) states that “this route is quite practicable for wagons,
the greater part of it being indeed an admirable road for wheels;
some difficulty would, however, be found in getting wagons over the
passes of Hareitri and Kokreb, and the dunes of Obak. At these three
points some work, not much, but rather expensive, would have to be
done to make the route a good wagon road.” The chief difficulty
lies in the arid stretch of 114 miles between Ariab and Berber,
for which Obak, lying about halfway, provides the only water.
The second route, _viâ_ Sinkat—Hormareb—Amet—Rowaya and Obak
is 5 or 6 miles shorter, but not so well known. It is occasionally
used by caravans, but although the water supply is good, the road is
bad about Sinkat.
(α) NORTHERLY ROUTE.[2]
MAJOR W. S. SPARKES, OCTOBER, 1897, AND DECEMBER AND JANUARY,
1897-98.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Suakin | — | — |Road runs in north-westerly
| | |direction alongside formation
| | |level of old Suakin-Berber
| | |railway. Good road, and easy going
| | |through scrub, with mimosa and
| | |acacia trees. Plain covered with
| | |camels and flocks of goats
| | |grazing. Gentle rise all way to
| | |Handub.
| | |
_Handub Well_ | 10 | 10 |Water here practically unlimited,
| | |slightly brackish; good camp
| | |ground, fuel, and grazing for
| | |camels. Water about 20 feet down.
| | |
| 3 | 13 |Track enters hills, which
| | |gradually close in on either side,
| | |going still good and gentle rise.
| | |
_Otao Well_ | 6 | 19 |Two wells here, giving good water,
| | |holes in ground, could be easily
| | |developed, at present sufficient
| | |for two companies infantry and
| | |their transport. Formation level
| | |of old railway ends here.
| | |
_Tambuk Well_ | 5 | 24 |Good water, supply practically
| | |unlimited, now three wells, would
| | |be easily increased. Good camp
| | |ground, fuel and grazing. Gazelle,
| | |hares, partridges, and doves along
| | |road, Handub and Tambuk. Water in
| | |wells about 15 feet down.
| | |
| 2 | 26 |To here going stony and rough,
| | |then through a short defile, and
| | |somewhat better; trees and shrubs
| | |all along.
| | |
Khor Ossaud | 5 | 31 |A sudden, short, sharp ascent, a
| | |½-mile level, stony ground,
Olip | 1 | 32 |without a shrub, and down to Khor
| | |Ossaud broad khor, full of trees,
| | |&c.; excellent going.
| | |
Khor Adit | 1 | 33 |Khor Adit, the main khor from
| | |Sinkat, which is about 20 miles
| | |distant, meets Khor Ossaud. Some
| | |gazelles, many doves in this khor,
| | |also numerous herds, goats and
| | |camels grazing. Junction of khor,
| | |called Olip.
| | |
| 3 | 36 |Track bends suddenly to right, and
| | |crosses a short and easy “agaba,”
| | |or pass. This is a short cut, main
| | |khor could be followed, and pass
| | |avoided, if necessary. This would
| | |make good halting place for
| | |infantry. It is 15 miles from
| | |Tambuk; plenty fuel and grazing.
| | |No water, but probably could be
| | |found if sunk for.
| | |
_Dissibil | 7 | 43 |One large well, which is merely
(well)_ | | |hole scooped in ground, gives
| | |plentiful supply good water;
| | |similar water holes could be dug
| | |without difficulty, and supply
| | |water practically unlimited; good
| | |camp ground, fuel, and grazing.
| | |
| | |Dissibil khor full of trees and
| | |shrubs; many gazelle and rock
| | |grouse and doves.
| | |
| 4 | 47 |Track crosses small pass or agaba,
| | |thence runs under high mountains
| | |on left hand, called Jebel Tamei.
| | |Chain of low stone hills on right,
| | |going fair all time.
| | |
Odrus | 7 | 54 |Track debouches on wide open
| | |plain, perhaps 15 miles by 10,
| | |called Wadi Odrus; is covered with
| | |coarse grass and stunted mimosa.
| | |Gradual rise up to here, now
| | |gentle descent to centre of Wadi
| | |Odrus, where a narrow khor known
Tekarti | 6 | 60 |as Tekarti. In good rain season
| | |considerable quantity of dura is
| | |grown along edge of this khor, but
| | |on Dissibil side and to eastwards
| | |only. Several well-grown trees
| | |along edge of khor. This is 15
| | |miles from Dissibil, and would
| | |make suitable halting place for
| | |infantry. No water, except after
| | |rains; good camp ground, fuel, and
| | |grazing. A gradual rise from here.
| | |
| 3¼ | 63¼ |On right of track, under low hill,
| | |several stone huts of Hamdab
| | |tribe.
| | |
| 2 | 65¼ |Wadi Odrus ends and track crosses
| | |outlying stony ridges of Amud
| | |range.
| | |
| 2 | 67¼ |A sharp gradient and highest point
| | |of whole route is reached 2,870
| | |feet above sea level. A sharp
| | |descent by about ¾ mile of rocky
| | |agaba or pass, which, however,
| | |presents but little difficulty to
_Khor Hareitri| ¾ | 68 |passage of all arms, leads to Khor
(well)_ | | |Hareitri, a rather narrow defile
(Tamai) | | |between high stone hills. Stony,
| | |baddish going, full of sunt or
| | |mimosa trees, and patches of
| ¾ | 68¾ |coarse grass. Three-quarters mile
| | |up khor is well, known as Bir
| | |Tamai by some, by others as simply
| | |Hareitri, a stone revetted well,
| | |giving good water about 12 feet
| | |down, rough wood huts on other
| | |side of well.
| | |
_Adel Aweb_[3]| 3¼ | 72 |Rain pools found all along edges
| | |of khor, and 3 miles from Tamai a
| | |very large deep pool, giving any
| | |quantity good water. Natives say
| | |pools all disappear in winter a
| | |few months after rain ceases, but
| | |wells could be sunk with success
| | |anywhere in khor. The big pool
| | |above called by natives Adel Aweb.
| | |Good grazing and fuel here,
| | |indifferent camp ground on account
| | |of stones. Rock grouse and doves
| | |in khor, which is about 5 miles
| | |long.
| | |
| 1 | 73 |Hareitri defile ends, and wide
| | |open plain called Wadi Tisartem is
| | |reached. Here dura is cultivated.
| | |
| 1½ | 74½ |A few huts on right, and some dura
| | |grown in good rain season, a good
| | |camp ground near here, fuel and
| | |grazing, but no water, though not
| | |impossible, might be found.
| | |
| 4 | 78½ |Track crosses low rough ridges for
| | |½ mile.
| | |
_Salalat | ½ | 79 |Khor Haab thick with fair-sized
(well)_ | | |trees, a sandy plain. Two and
| | |a-half miles off track, to left or
| | |south, is Bir Salalat, two wells,
| | |partially revetted wood, water
| | |good, about 40 feet down. Supply
| | |limited, each well could, perhaps,
| | |supply 600 gallons, and would then
| | |require three hours to refill,
| | |more wells could easily be sunk.
| | |Good camp ground, fuel and
| | |grazing, and some fair-sized trees
| | |near wells. These wells cannot be
| | |relied on as permanent. In 1903
| | |they had been dry for 2 years.
| | |
| 3½ | 82½ |A slight rise brings track to
| | |level plateau of gravelly trap,
| | |smooth and firm, no vegetation,
| | |leading down to Khor Furd.
| | |
| 2½ | 85 |A very large patch cultivation
| | |dependent on rainfall, nothing
| | |could be grown this year.
| | |
| 5½ | 90½ |Across a neck, high irregular-
| | |shaped rocky hill few hundred
| | |yards to right, large black
| | |boulder to left. Quarter mile
| | |further is level, open, gravelly
| | |piece of ground, suitable for
| | |camp, with fuel and grazing, but
| | |no water. From here vegetation
| | |gradually ceases.
| | |
| 2 | 92½ |Cross neck of Iglaladat, outlying
| | |ridge with high mass of rock on
| | |left. From here hills close in and
| | |track along base of outlying spurs
| | |and ridges.
| | |
Khor Kokreb | 3½ | 96 |Agaba or pass leading to Khor
| | |Kokreb begins, a descent, a slight
| | |rise, then a steep and rocky, but
| | |not difficult, piece, in all about
| | |½ mile, and khor is entered; ½
_Hayaba | 1 | 97 |mile on and well called Hayaba, a
(well)_ | | |hole in ground, water a few feet
| | |down and good, only one hole at
| | |present, but others could be dug
| | |in very short time, giving a
| | |practically unlimited supply.
| | |Rough wooden hut and Arab grave,
| | |and on left of well good camp
| | |ground, water, fuel, and grazing.
| | |
_Sarbit | 1½ | 98½ |Revetted stone well, good water
(well)_ | | |about 10 feet down, sufficient for
| | |battalion, good ground, fuel, and
| | |grazing.
| | |
| 4 | 102½ |Track, now well to right of khor,
| | |runs over a neck between small
| | |rocky hills for short way, then
| | |sand, then rocks, with graveyards
| | |on each side; ½ mile on and low
| | |rocky chain hides main khor from
| | |track, hills gradually close in.
| | |
| 1½ | 104 |Hills now come in from north at
| | |right angles to track, and appear
| | |to entirely block up khor; under
| | |these hills was situated the
| | |Dervish post of Osman Digna. A
| | |collection of tukuls, sufficient
| | |for about 200 men, and surrounded
| | |by a thick thorn zariba; clear,
| | |level space, some 700 yards to
| | |front and flanks, within 200 yards
| | |of hills at back; a well enough
| | |chosen position as regards
| | |covering road from Suakin. A
| | |narrow and short defile on extreme
| | |left affords an exit, and khor
| | |again widens somewhat.
| | |
_El Matar | 1½ | 105½ |A hole scooped in ground, good
(well)_ | | |water a few feet down, enough for
| | |half battalion at present, but
| | |could be quickly increased by
| | |digging other holes. Camp ground,
| | |grazing, and fuel here. Track now
| | |bends to left and crosses neck
| | |between two old graveyards.
| | |
_Abd El Haabit| 1½ | 107 |Two wells here, about ½ mile
(well)_ | | |apart, one on track, other ½ mile
| | |to left. The one on track a hole
| | |in khor, good water, limited
| | |supply, enough for about 100
| | |camels, before refilling in two
| | |hours. Other revetted stone, now
| | |dry, but could easily be reopened.
| | |
| | |All these four last wells in Khor
| | |Kokreb, which is wide, full of
| | |trees and shrubs, with stony hills
| | |here and there, many gazelle,
| | |doves and rock grouse. Track
| | |follows khor in all about 10
| | |miles, when it branches to right.
| | |
| | |Track now enters wide open plain
| | |of black stone, but good going,
| | |bare but for few stunted mimosa,
| | |and coarse patches of grass.
| | |
| 5 | 112 |Stone ceases, and firm sand takes
| | |its place.
| | |
| 2½ | 114½ |Track bends to right among patches
| | |of huge boulders.
| | |
| | |Directly after entering Agortitweb
| | |Plain, a black hill, surmounted by
| | |what appears to be two tower-like
| | |masses of rock, makes an excellent
| | |landmark, as tracks leads straight
| | |on to it.
| | |
Lagag Aweb[4] | 1½ | 116 |Above-mentioned landmark is
(called by | | |passed, it lies to left of road,
natives half | | |and on close inspection becomes a
way to Berber)| | |smooth, oval base of rock, with
| | |irregular mass at approach end,
| | |while other block dissolves into
| | |two huge boulders, one with a
| | |considerable lean to east. Pass
| | |between this, which is called
| | |Lagag Aweb, on left, and a smaller
| | |rocky hill on right, is considered
| | |by natives as half way to Berber.
| | |
| | |Track now winds for 2 miles round
| | |base of low stony hills, crosses a
| | |neck, then on left a strip of
| | |coarse grass and stunted mimosa,
| | |bearing away to left, while hills
| | |on left also spread away. For some
| | |way further, track winds along
| | |base of hills on right, when they
| | |also spread away, and the stony
Wadi Yungul or| 2½ | 118½ |plain called Wadi Yungul is
K. Yomga | | |reached, going good. Good camp
| | |grounds, but indifferent grazing,
| | |and no water or fuel in Wadi
| | |Yungul. Yungul Plain ceases, track
| | |winds to right between low stony
| | |hills. A little over 1 mile and
| 6½ | 125 |narrow khor, with few trees and
| | |coarse grass, is crossed, then
| | |again winds through low hills. Two
| | |connected hillocks of white marble
| | |being a prominent feature
| | |immediately to left of track.
| | |
| 3 | 128 |The Ariab valley is entered, it is
| | |thick with scrub and fair-sized
| | |trees, with numerous herds, goats,
| | |&c. The hills stretch away on
| | |either side. Natives report there
| | |is a well called Makardi off track
| | |to left under the hills, but that
| | |it gives but little water.
| | |
_Ariab[5] | 3 | 131 |Three miles up valley are Ariab
(well)_ | | |wells. One large stone-revetted in
| | |centre of khor, giving practically
| | |unlimited supply, excellent water.
| | |Water about 20 feet down. 150
| | |yards from this well are two
| | |others, also revetted, stone one
| | |gives plentiful supply, other
| | |partially choked for want of use.
| | |Good camp ground, grazing, water
| | |and fuel. Many of gazelle, doves,
| | |and rock grouse in valley. Track
| | |now leaves Khor Ariab on right,
| | |and goes south-west through black
| | |stone hills, low on right, high on
| | |left, somewhat bad going.
| | |
| | |Level plain, covered tufts coarse
| | |grass, half stony, half sandy,
| | |good going.
| | |
| | |Through low hills, rather bad
| | |going.
| | |
Wadi Barud | — | — |Wide level plain, covered coarse
| | |grass, good going.
| | |
Wadi O’Duruk | — | — |Level plain, good going, some
| | |coarse scrub, stunted trees.
| | |
| | |Track leaves O’Duruk on right and
| | |passes to left of, and immediately
| | |below, a high stone hill, across a
| | |small khor, and then winds among
| | |low stone hills.
| | |
Wadi Temartua | — | — |Good going, partly firm sand,
| | |partly stony.
| | |
Khor Laiameb | 44 | 175 |A broad khor running about east
| | |and west, almost at right angles
| | |to track. Said to contain pools
| | |after rain, about 4 miles to west
| | |of track. Small mimosa trees and
| | |coarse grass; water might be found
| | |if sunk for. Track after crossing
| | |Khor Laiameb again goes over hilly
| | |stony ground.
| | |
Jebel O’Fik | 2½ | 177½ |On right of track country open and
| | |level again, a few trees and some
| | |grass here.
| | |
Wadi Tatua | — | — |After passing Jebel O’Fik the Wadi
| | |Tatua is entered; sandhills, &c.,
| | |in khor; Obak can be seen in
| | |distance; good going.
| | |
| 5½ | 183 |Across a low ridge, going still
| | |good.
| | |
| | |Plain becomes covered with small
| | |mimosa bushes; 1½ miles through
| | |these bushes and Obak sandhills
| | |and drifts are entered.
| | |
_Obak (well)_ | 9 | 192 |Large new well, gives 2,000
| | |gallons when full; takes 10 hours
| | |to refill. Water slightly
| | |brackish. Natives say that there
| | |were formerly 50 or 60 of these
| | |wells, but have fallen in from
| | |want of use. Wells, revetted wood;
| | |water about 40 feet down.
| | |Indifferent camp ground, some
| | |grazing and fuel.
| | |
| | |For 3 miles after Obak track lies
| | |through heavy sand over hills and
| | |drifts, then good level going,
| | |only occasional sand.
| | |
| 14 | 206 |Some trees and grass here;
| | |suitable camp ground; water might
| | |possibly be found. Site of
| | |proposed well.
| | |
Jebel Eremit | 2 | 208 |A low granite hill on left of
| | |track.
| | |
Abu Odfa | 5 | 213 |Curious-shaped mass of rock on
| | |right of track.
| | |
Wadi Abu Selim| 21 | 234 |Some trees and grass; water could
| | |probably be found. Site of
| | |proposed well.
| | |
_Maho Bey | 11 | 245 |Good revetted well, 40 feet down,
(well)_ | | |covered by mud brick fort;
| | |excellent water, practically
| | |unlimited supply, good camping
| | |ground, fuel and grazing.
| | |
Berber | 6 | 251 |Except for first 3 miles all going
| | |from Obak to Berber excellent.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
SUMMARY OF WELLS ON NORTHERLY ROUTE.
-------------+--------+---------------------------------------------
Name of well.|Distance| Description.
| apart. |
-------------+--------+---------------------------------------------
| Miles. |
| |
Handub | 10[6]|Slightly brackish, unlimited supply.
| |
Otao | 9 |One well, hole in khor; good water could
| |be developed.
| |
Tambuk | 5 |Good water about 15 feet down, unlimited
| |supply.
| |
Dissibil | 19 |One well, good water hole in khor, at
| |present (1898) sufficient half battalion
| |and transport; could be increased at will.
| |
Tamai | 25 |In Khor Hareitri; well also by some
| |called Hareitri. Stone, revetted, about
| |12 feet deep, good water; well itself
| |sufficient for half battalion and
| |transport, but supply easily increased.
| |Rain pools all along Khor Hareitri; one
| |very large and deep called Adelaweb, 3
| |miles from Tamai.
| |
Salalat | 11 |One and a-half miles to left of road, two
| |wells, revetted stone, one practically
| |choked. Good water about 40 feet down,
| |limited supply, enough for 50 camels, and
| |takes 2 hours to refill.
| |
Hayaba | 18 |Hole in sand, 4 feet deep, met
| |immediately on entering Khor Kokreb; good
| |water, supply practically unlimited, as
| |similar holes can be dug in very short
| |time.
| |
Sarbit | 1½ |In Khor Kokreb, good water about 10 feet
| |down, revetted stone.
| |
Matar | 7 |Hole in khor, still Kokreb, good water,
| |supply half battalion, but could be
| |developed. Former watering place of
| |Dervish Kokreb post 1½ miles off.
| |
Id El Haabit | 1½ |Hole in khor, good water, sufficient half
| |battalion, could be developed.
| |
Ariab | 24 |One very large well, revetted stone, good
| |water about 20 feet down; two smaller,
| |also revetted stone, one now choked.
| |Water sufficient at present for one
| |battalion and transport, and could be
| |developed.
| |
Obak | 61 |One large stone revetted well, giving
| |excellent supply of good water.
| |
Maho Bey | 52 |Large stone revetted well, good water,
| |large supply.
-------------+--------+---------------------------------------------
(β)—BERBER TO SUAKIN (SOUTHERLY ROUTE).
The mileage is estimated by pace of camels, and there appears to be
but little difference between the northerly and southerly routes;
the Arabs, however, call the south road the longer.
Water supply is quite equal to that on north road, and all wells,
being more or less deep sunk, do not get fouled by animals drinking
direct from them, as is the case with surface wells, such as Dissibil,
Hayaba, &c. These wells are also much more used by Arabs for watering
their flocks than those on other track, and, without exception,
they are surrounded by diruks, or earth-made drinking pans, which
are scarce on other road.
A long rope and deluk, or native sort of bucket of thin hide, would
be required at each well.
For movements of troops the north road is infinitely to be preferred,
as going throughout is comparatively easy for all arms. On south
road, numerous agabas, or passes over the hills, make going hard
and difficult. The big agaba between Sinkat and Tamaneb is almost
impossible for wheeled artillery.
(β) SOUTHERLY ROUTE, _viâ_ OBAK, RAUAI, KHOR ARAB, AND SINKAT.
BY MAJOR W. S. SPARKES, NOVEMBER, 1897.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Berber | — | — |
| | |
_Maho Bey_ | 6 | 6 |_Vide_ report on north road.
| | |
Khor Abu Selim| 11 | 17 | „ „
| | |
Abu Odfa | 21 | 38 | „ „
| | |
Eramit | 5 | 43 | „ „
| | |
_Obak Wells_ | 16 | 59 | „ „
| | |
Ofik | 14 | 73 | „ „
| | |
| 4½ | 77½ |Track to Rauai branches away to
| | |right. Also a track to Rauai a few
| | |miles after leaving Obak.
| | |
| 1½ | 79 |Through low stony hills and Khor
| | |Laiameb is struck; track runs
| | |straight along khor. Going good; a
| | |gradual rise; Khor Wusser runs
| | |side by side with Laiameb, and
| | |appears to form part of it.
| | |
| 17 | 96 |Track leaves Khor Laiameb and
| | |crosses low neck of rock; low
| | |black stone hills on right hand;
| | |scattered boulders, some of
| | |similar shape to Abu Odfa on left
| | |hand. Hills gradually close in,
| | |and track crosses stony but not
| | |difficult agaba, or pass, some ¾
| | |mile long.
| | |
| ¾ | 96¾ |A path to left leads over hills to
| | |Ariab.
| | |
| 1¾ | 98½ |Over stony khor, then into hills
| | |again, and is stony, steep, bad
| | |going.
| | |
_Rauai Wells_ | 2 | 100½ |Stony sort of square, surrounded
| | |By stone hills, with a narrow khor
| | |running out each corner. Large
| | |graveyard on right. A few mimosa
| | |trees and some coarse grass.
| | |Indifferent camping ground. Wells
| | |½ mile up a narrow, rocky defile,
| | |running from east corner of
| | |square; two wells, revetted stone,
| | |good water 15 feet down;
| | |practically unlimited supply. This
| | |defile impassable for animals,
| | |which must go by easier way over
| | |hills to south-west, and then down
| | |side of hill again to the wells.
| | |Some rough drawings of camels,
| | |men, &c., scratched on rocks round
| | |wells. Rock grouse and partridges
| | |here. Track now runs north-west
| | |over short agaba, across a stony
| | |khor, and again an agaba winding
| | |over bare, stony hills; bad going;
| | |then a long, narrow, sandy khor;
| | |fair-going; then a rough, stony
| | |agaba leading over hills called
| | |Hadia Aweb or blackwater rock;
| | |thence into Khor Thela, a short
_Makadia | 14½ | 115 |agaba, and Bir Makadia, in small
Wells_ | | |khor same name, at head of Ariab
| | |valley; Ariab wells, about 6 miles
| | |west of north from here; one well
| | |good water 30 feet down, enough
| | |for one battalion, which would
| | |require 1½ hours to refill; good
| | |grazing ground and fuel. Some
| | |gazelle and grouse; north road
| | |about 3 miles from well. Going
| | |from Rauai bad, nearly whole way a
| | |succession of stony agabas. Prom
| | |here cross stony neck, then across
| | |head of Ariab valley. Pass Jebel
| | |Bokmaali on left hand, cross a
| | |stony neck, and
| | |
Yungul | 4 | 119 |Reach Wadi Yungul; north road
| | |about 8 miles to left; 4 miles,
| | |then cross another stony neck, and
| | |Wadi Beakwa, called by Arabs
| | |halfway to Suakin.
| | |
Khor Atbai | 7½ | 126½ |Cross Khor Atbai; 3 miles on cross
| | |old dura patch, none this year on
| | |account of bad rains. Over two
| | |sandy and stony ridges and
| | |
Wadi Kokreb | 3½ | 130 |Enter Kokreb valley; good going,
| | |firm sand, and thick with trees
| | |and shrubs. Over some stony ridges
| | |and
| | |
Khor Olowe | 2½ | 132½ |Enter Khor Olowe, still a part of
| | |Kokreb.
| | |
_Magwala | 3½ | 136 |Two wells, good water, 75 feet
Wells_ | | |down, sufficient for one
| | |battalion; would require some
| | |hours to refill; these wells are
| | |said by Arabs to be oldest on
| | |road; they are revetted granite,
| | |which is deeply grooved all round
| | |from constant hauling up of water.
| | |Are much used by Shebodinab tribe,
| | |who have huts close here. Many
| | |hods, or earth-made drinking pans,
| | |round each well. Some old Dervish
| | |“tukuls,” which used to be
| | |occupied by a detachment, for
| | |collecting taxes. Good camp
| | |ground, fuel and grazing, pigeons
| | |and sand grouse; no gazelle. Wells
| | |of Abd El Haabit lie some 7 or 8
| | |miles to north, and Jebel Wowitte,
| | |about 8 miles to north-east; Jebel
| | |Lagagaweb, the halfway rock on
| | |north road, is seen some 6 miles
| | |to north of west from here.
| | |
| | |Khor now gradually gets bare and
| | |intersected by strips of stone.
| | |
| 4 | 140 |Cross a ridge and Khor Lasheb,
| | |going indifferent, cut up by small
| | |watercourses over a ridge.
| | |
_Wadi Habub_ | 3 | 143 |Wadi Habub. Going still
| | |indifferent, across many ridges
| | |running into khor, 5½ miles on;
| | |track runs along edge of hills,
| | |and then enters the Komotitai
| | |hills by very stony and difficult
| | |agaba or pass, about 1½ miles
| | |long, then into sandy khor, full
| | |of vegetation of sorts. 2 miles up
| | |this khor to the
| | |
_Kamotitai | 11 | 154 |Wells of same name, _i.e._,
Wells_ | | |Kamotitai, three wells, revetted
| | |stone, good water 25 feet down
| | |unlimited supply. Many other wells
| | |in this khor now closed up; much
| | |used by Arabs, and at each well
| | |numerous hods. Good camp ground,
| | |fuel, and grazing; sand grouse and
| | |pigeons in abundance.
| | |
| | |A short way past wells, track
| | |bends to left past large
| | |graveyard; then across alternate
| | |khors and ridges; indifferent
| | |going.
| | |
Khor Arab | 7 | 161 |Thick with trees of all sorts, and
| | |considerable cultivation in good
| | |season. Two deep watercourses
| | |crossed soon after entering khor;
| | |3 miles on the track runs to north
| | |of khor, over stony ridges, with
| | |low stone hills on either hand.
| | |
Jebel Okwer | 7 | 168 |Jebel Okwer begins on left of
| | |khor, several small pyramid-shaped
| | |hills on right, and khor
| | |stretching away beyond them.
| | |
_Khor Amate | 3½ | 171½ |Over a low ridge, and Wadi Amate
Wells_ | | |begins; track running across large
| | |patch of old cultivation into a
| | |sandy khor; one well some 200
| | |yards to right, another ½ mile
| | |straight on. There is a third
| | |well, now closed. These wells,
| | |revetted wood, good water 12 feet
| | |down; supply practically
| | |unlimited; many hods. Good camp
| | |ground, fuel and grazing. A stone
| | |hut close to well, and place thick
| | |with sheep and goats, and some
| | |cattle.
| | |
| | |Track from here runs north-west,
| | |over small agaba into narrow khor
| | |thick with trees. Okwer range
| | |still on left; low hills on right
| | |3½ miles, and hills on right hand,
| | |and track again enters main Khor
| | |Amate. Batta range on far right
| | |and in front; ½ mile on Okwer
| | |range ends.
| | |
| 4½ | 176 |Track to _wells of Abu Goloda_
| | |runs north from here.
| | |
| 3½ | 179½ |End of Khor Amate, and Batta range
| | |entered by fairly easy agaba,
| | |running east 1½ miles; then cross
| | |small stony khor, then another
| | |agaba through smaller hills, going
| | |bad.
| | |
_Hormareb | 3½ | 183 |Jebel Homugwer away in distance to
Well_ | | |right, ¾ mile off track to north
| | |in small khor same name, Bir
| | |Hormareb; one well, good water 25
| | |feet down; supply about 1,000
| | |gallons; requires some hours to
| | |refill. Several hods round well;
| | |good grazing and fuel, indifferent
| | |ground. _Another well_ reported,
| | |same description, 3 or 4 miles
| | |further up khor to north. From
| | |here bad going, over stony ridges
| | |and small khors.
| | |
Wadi Ma’areit | 3½ | 186½ |Large graveyard on right, and
| | |track turns sharp to left up Wadi
| | |Ma’areit, a broad level valley,
| | |running north and south; good
| | |going, and considerable
| | |cultivation after good rains. This
| | |year a few patches dura. North-
| | |west corner of valley thickly
| | |studded with trees, and was in old
| | |days a favourite summer resort of
| | |people from Suakin.
| | |
| 6½ | 193 |Hills close right in on either
| | |side, and the narrow wooded Khor
| | |Ashaf leads through hills 2 miles;
| | |track bends north-east, 1½ miles
| | |on, and cross a flat khor, with
| | |sparse vegetation, thick with
| | |flocks.
| | |
| | |Now over alternate rough ridges
| | |and small ragged khors. 2½ miles
| | |down a sharp agaba into a small
| | |khor, green and sweet smelling,
| | |then wind round base of hills
| | |miles, and enter Khor Tabikuk.
| | |
Khor Tabikuk | 7½ | 200½ |Across this khor, 3½ miles, top a
| | |ridge, and view Sinkat valley,
| | |green and thick with people and
| | |flocks; down small agaba, over low
| | |ridge, and enter valley.
| | |
_Sinkat Well_ | 4½ | 205 |One large well, good water 25 feet
| | |down; unlimited supply. Several
| | |large gemmeiza trees round wells
| | |give excellent shade; ruins old
| | |Egyptian fort also close to wells.
| | |Large village in valley, with
| | |several thousand people, built
| | |partly straw huts, partly Arab
| | |tents, small bazaar, and large
| | |stores of gum.
| | |
| | |Good ground, fuel and grazing.
| | |Khor Adit leads from north Sinkat
| | |valley towards Khor Ossaud.
| | |
| | |Track from well runs east across
| | |valley, then over low ridge across
| | |two deep watercourses, and up a
| | |stony, gradually-narrowing khor,
| | |which winds through the hills.
| | |
_Khor Gebet_ | 6½ | 211½ |A short but bad agaba, a small
| | |khor, a ridge, another small khor,
| | |another ridge and Khor Gebet;
| | |about 3 miles up this khor to
| | |right are two wells.
| | |
| 3 | 214½ |Commencement of the great Sinkat
| | |Agaba or Pass, along which track
| | |runs for 3½ miles; very bad,
| | |difficult going, practically
| | |impassable for wheeled artillery,
| | |and would be altogether
| | |impracticable but for the work
| | |done years ago by Mumtaz Pasha,
| | |then Governor of Suakin. In this
| | |agaba the Khor Gwob rises, which,
| | |gradually widening, eventually
| | |reaches the sea some 7 miles south
| | |of Suakin.
| | |
_Khor Gwob_ | 3½ | 218 |End of agaba, and good going over
| | |firm sand; gradual descent down
| | |khor, which gradually widens.
| | |Hills on either side, thick with
| | |tamarisk, and cactus, &c. Huge
| | |boulders on each side also
| | |protruding from bed of khor. Pools
| | |of water, with thick reeds here
| | |and there, in which were many
| | |teal; also many partridges, rock
| | |grouse, and pigeons in khor.
| | |
_Tamanib_ | 6 | 224 |Unlimited supply, good running
| | |water; fair camp ground; excellent
| | |grazing; plenty fuel. Many cattle
| | |grazing here.
| | |
| | |Road now leaves Khor Gwob and
| | |turns to right; runs over low
| | |ridges, with small khors between;
| | |full of gazelle, ariel and hares.
| | |
| 10 | 234 |Hills cease, and a straight down-
| | |hill run into Suakin, over plain
| | |covered with coarse vegetation.
| | |
Suakin | 10 | 244 |Suakin.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
3.—BERBER TO KASSALA.
COMPILED IN INTELLIGENCE OFFICE, KHARTOUM, FROM VARIOUS SKETCHES
AND REPORTS, JUNE, 1902.
This route is very difficult to map or describe so as to be of use to
the traveller, as there are hardly half a dozen unmistakable objects
along it by which he could identify his position.
As the Atbara dries up, it leaves a series of pools along its
bed. Where the banks allow of these pools being approached by animals,
the Arabs’ flocks are taken to water, and paths are beaten or cut
through the bush leading to these meshras.
[Sidenote: Guides.]
The ordinary Arab guide, even if he has been in the habit of travelling
by this road for years, knows only a small number of these meshras,
_i.e._, those most conveniently situated for the class of journey
he has been in the habit of performing, and only one or two of the
countless tracks. The only people who know all the small meshras off
the road, and they perhaps over a limited portion of the river, are the
Arabs (Hadendoas) who are grazing their flocks there. If the traveller,
therefore, because he is marching with troops or for any other reason,
wishes to use the less well-known meshras, he must depend on local
inquiries and should, therefore, have with him men who speak Hadendoa.
Another great difficulty is the comparatively small number of men
who know the names of any except the chief meshras. Consequently the
average guide makes the names he knows extend over the whole length
of the river. Where one ends, another begins. The Arabs grazing their
flocks by the Atbara, on the other hand, will give you names for
each little bit of the river, but these names are of little value,
as no one else knows them.
[Sidenote: Rest houses.]
There are rest houses at intervals of about 20 miles between Berber
and Kassala.
[Sidenote: Grazing.]
There is good grazing for camels practically the whole way.
[Sidenote: Travellers.]
Persons travelling by themselves in the hot weather may find it best
to march very early in the morning, halt at water, and march again near
sunset, carrying enough water for the night-halt away from the river.
[Sidenote: Supplies.]
No supplies of any sort are to be got along road, except perhaps milk
and sheep.
[Sidenote: Game.]
There is good fishing in the Atbara. Gazelle, bustard and ariel are
seen along the route in localities, varying with the season. Wild
asses are numerous north of Goz Regeb.
[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]
Some Bisharin are met, and a good many nomad Hadendoas.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Berber | — | — |From Berber the road runs between
| | |the river and the railway.
| | |
Darmali | 13 | 13 |A mud built village on the Nile;
| | |the usual road now branches
| | |southwards, crosses the railway
| | |and than a bare, gravelly,
Khor El Hudi | 17 | 30 |waterless plain to Khor El Hudi.
| | |(If preferred, the Atbara can be
| | |followed by continuing along the
| | |Nile to Atbara Station, which is
| | |about 7 miles from Darmali.)
| | |
| | |From El Hudi, where the remains of
| | |the Anglo-Egyptian zeriba are
| | |still visible, the road skirts the
| | |river which is fringed with dom
Khor Abadar or| 8 | 38 |palms and other bush to Khor
Abu Adar | | |Abadar, near the junction of which
| | |there is a small stone wall
| | |enclosure and the remains of
| | |another Anglo-Egyptian zeriba.
| | |
| | |From here the road cuts off an
| | |angle from the river and lies
_Khor El Hilg_| 19 | 57 |across open gravelly desert till
(Rest House) | | |Khor El Hilg is reached.
| | |
| | |(Nakheila, the site of Mahmud’s
| | |zeriba and the battle of the
| | |Atbara, is passed at the 12th
| | |mile, about 5 miles to the west.)
| | |There is dense bush about here,
| | |and the ground is likely to be
| | |swampy in the rains.
| | |
Sheikh El | 3½ | 60½ |The house stands on slightly
Sebib’s House | | |rising ground. After passing this
(Rest House). | | |the country continues to be broken
| | |by small khors until after passing
_Gemmeiza_ | 12 | 72½ |Gemmeiza, a good halting place,
(Rest House) | | |but much bush hereabouts.
| | |
| | |The country soon becomes open and
| | |level, and is covered with
| | |scattered selem and sunt bushes.
| | |The river is generally nowhere
| | |more than a mile and half to the
| | |west.
| | |
El Hagar | 14½ | 87 |Here there are rocks in the river
| | |bed.
| | |
Khor El Fil | 1 | 88 |The going continues excellent
| | |until reaching Khor Adarama which
Khor Adarama | 8 | 96 |is about 1½ miles in width and is
| | |marked by very thick scrub of
| | |sunt, talh, and tundub, as well as
| | |by the badly cracked cotton soil
| | |indicative of standing water.
| | |
_Adarama_ | 1½ | 97½ |Adarama consists of a large number
(Rest House) | | |of mud walled enclosures,
| | |scattered over about ¾ of a square
| | |mile of ground. These are almost
| | |entirely deserted and mostly
| | |ruined. With the exception of the
| | |inspector’s house, camel corps
| | |lines, and a few tukls, there are
| | |practically no inhabited houses.
| | |In the dry weather there are two
| | |water pools in the vicinity, one
| | |at the foot of Khor Adarama, and
| | |another about ¾ mile higher up.
| | |The approach to the river is easy,
| | |but the bank shelves steeply to
| | |the river bed from a height of
| | |about 25 feet.
| | |
El Hejera | 1½ | 99 |A large zeriba of Osman Digna’s is
| | |passed.
| | |
Um Bashim | 2 | 101 |The name of this district. After
| | |passing through two patches of
| | |bush about a mile apart, the
| | |country becomes open and sandy,
| | |and sand ridges appear to the
| | |east.
| | |
El Siwan | 8 | 109 |Here the river may be approached,
| | |and further on the track passes
| | |within a few yards of the river
| | |bank.
| | |
_Shellalab_ | 10½ | 119½ |Shellalab, a sandy hill covered
(Rest House | | |with marakh bushes. From here the
near here). | | |track continues to the river bank,
| | |through scattered marakh bush, and
| | |sand hills lie away to the east.
Gala Amarus | — | — |The river can be approached almost
| | |anywhere, and the path is never
_Meshra Baluk | 21½ | 141 |more than about ½ a mile from it.
or Um Beiba_ | | |Jebel Ayob is visible about 7
(Rest House). | | |miles due east.
| | |
| | |From here the path traverses
| | |scattered bush, and in places
| | |badly cracked cotton soil,
| | |indicating the existence of water
| | |in the rains, and gradually
| | |ascends an easy slope on to the
| | |plateau, and thus cuts off a bend
| | |in the river.
| | |
Debba Gulal | 13 | 154 |Debba Gulal.
| | |
| | |The descent from the plateau
| | |begins 3 miles further on, and the
_Meshra_ | 7 | 161 |river is struck at a good meshra.
| | |
_Meshra | 3 | 164 |The path continuing near the
Mitateb_ (Rest| | |river, Mitateb, the first meshra
House). | | |in the Hadendoa country, is
| | |reached. The Bisharin country on
| | |right bank ends here, as also the
| | |Berber Province; the Province of
| | |Kassala is now entered. Rest house
| | |here.
| | |
| | |From here the path gradually
| | |ascends a gentle slope to the
| | |plateau, from where Jebels Ofreik
| | |and Erembat soon become visible.
| | |Scattered heglig, tundub, and samr
| | |trees are noticeable, of these
| | |samr predominate as Goz Regeb is
| | |approached.
| | |
| | |Two miles before reaching old
| | |telegraph hut the road descends
| | |from the plateau, and the river is
| | |reached at this hut, which forms a
| | |good halting place. The village of
_Goz Regeb_ | 15 | 179 |Goz Regeb is situated on a slight
(Rest House) | | |eminence close to the river on the
| | |left bank, and is marked by a few
| | |dom palms. Some Government
| | |buildings are now in course of
| | |construction on the right bank,
| | |the idea being that Goz Regeb
| | |should form a sanatorium for
| | |Kassala during the rains. The
| | |direct track to Kassala and that
| | |in general use leaves J. Erembat
| | |to the north, and strikes straight
| | |across the level plain. At about
_Bir Teishum_ | 38 | 217 |38 miles, Bir Teishum is passed in
(Rest House) | | |the bed of a branch of the Gash,
| | |about 3 miles off the direct road.
| | |It has been lately opened up, and
| | |has a good supply of water, and
| | |Arabs were living here (March,
| | |1902). There is little shade to be
| | |had on this road until after
Khor Ebret | 20 | 237 |passing Khor Ebret, when kurmet
| | |and other green trees and bushes
Khor Gash | 5 | 242 |become numerous. On nearing the
| | |Gash, signs of cultivation appear.
| | |
_Tukruf_ | 1¾ | 243¾ |Many wells in bed of Gash;
| | |unlimited supply of water.
| | |
Kassala | 2¾ | 246½ |Destination.
ANOTHER ROUTE MAY BE TAKEN FROM GOZ REGEB _viâ_ ASUBRI TO KASSALA.
_Goz Regeb_ | 179 | 179 |The track ascends to the plateau
| | |and follows the edge of it,
| | |leaving the river several miles to
| | |the west. There are several
| | |meshras, all of which, however,
| | |are almost impossible to find
| | |without a guide.
| | |
_Meshra Um | 30 | 209 |This meshra is somewhere about
Bereika_ | | |half-way.
| | |
_Asubri_ | 35 | 244 |Good meshra and shade.
| | |
| | |About 5 miles after leaving the
| | |river for Kassala, the road from
| | |Suweihil joins in, and rather
| | |thick laot and kittr bush is
Goz El Handal | 8½ | 252½ |traversed till reaching Goz El
| | |Handal, an open gravelly plain
| | |with short grass extending for
| | |about 2 miles From here to
| | |Umsiteiba there is little bush.
| | |
Umsiteiba | 13 | 265½ |A place where water stands in the
| | |rains; not much shade.
| | |
Khor Garatet | 3 | 268½ |Rather swampy and difficult for
| | |camels in the rains.
| | |
Khor Um Dahan | 6 | 274½ |Water stands in this khor in the
| | |rains. It is about 6 yards wide
| | |and 3 feet deep.
| | |
| | |There are Arab settlements near
| | |here in the rains for cultivation.
| | |After passing through some rather
Khor Kunti | 6 | 280½ |thick laot, &c., bush, Khor Kunti,
| | |about 8 yards wide and 6 feet
| | |deep, is crossed.
| | |
Khor Gash | 4¼ | 284¾ |Many marakh and kurmet bushes
| | |until the Gash is reached.
| | |
Kassala | ¾ | 285½ |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
4.—SUAKIN TO TOKAR.
BY LIEUTENANT A. M. TAGGART, 1ST BOMBAY LANCERS, JULY, 1896;
CAPTAIN MCKERRELL, CAMERON HIGHLANDERS, DECEMBER, 1897.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Suakin | — | — |For the first 25 miles the track
| | |is well defined, and leads over
| | |hard ground never more than a mile
| | |or two from the sea shore. During
| | |the next 6 miles it changes in
| | |character, and for the last 25
| | |miles leads through bushes and
| | |over sandhills, the tracks varying
| | |according to the season and the
| | |difficulties (drifting sand, &c.)
| | |to be encountered. There is no
| | |water to be had on the way. A
| | |telegraph line leads direct from
| | |Suakin to Tokar, but does not
| | |always follow the best road.
| | |
| | |Leaving Suakin in a S.S.E.
| | |direction, the track is broad and
| | |distinct, passing over hard, sandy
| | |ground, with a few bushes 1 to 3
| | |feet high.
| | |
Khor Gwob | 7½ | 7½ |Crosses broad Khor Gwob.
| | |
| 3 | 10½ |Track now 5 to 10 feet broad,
| | |approaches sea shore, then bears
| | |away again. Near this point (4
| | |hours from Suakin) there are
| | |reported to have been some wells
| | |in 1885; water 6 feet down and
| | |brackish, hardly ever used.
| | |
| 2 | 12 |Saw some trees due east, halfway
| | |to the sea; said to be _wells of
| | |Helub_. Water bitter, and but
| | |little used.
| | |
| 3 | 15 |Track meets telegraph line.
| | |
| 2½ | 17½ |Over rising ground. Extensive view
| | |in all directions to the westward,
| | |well-defined khor trending north-
| | |west. Sparse bushes 2 to 3 feet
| | |high, ground hard and sandy,
| | |overlying coral. Track descends
| | |again; then level ground.
| | |
Khor Asab | 7½ | 25 |Reached Khor Asab, which runs in
| | |from the hills to the west; it is
| | |called half-way to Tokar. Here a
| | |track branches off to the left,
| | |and leads to Teb.
| | |
| 6 | 31 |Mud huts in ruins. Track becomes
| | |narrow and indistinct. Bush
| | |thicker, 4 to 8 feet high.
| | |
| | |Surface shifting sand, with clay
| | |patches.
| | |
| 8 | 39 |Crosses several small khors,
| | |sometimes traces of water here.
| | |Bush very thick.
| | |
Khor Tamai | 2 | 41 |Small pool of rainwater (at
| | |certain seasons only).
| | |
Mamuria | 4 | 45 |Ruined Mamuria of Mumtaz Pasha—mud
| | |house. Telegraph line crossed
| | |three times since the 31st mile.
| | |Bush becomes thicker.
| | |
Old Tokar | 5 | 50 |Old Tokar—in ruins. Broken ground
| | |and thick bush.
| | |
_Abdulla Rai_ | 2 | 52 |Abdulla Rai Fort (fat loopholed
| | |tower, with pointed roof), on an
| | |eminence, visible from some
| | |distance. Nine wells here, water
| | |good—never known to fail, 54 feet
| | |down (July). Large herds of camels
| | |and goats in the district. Thick
| | |bush all round.
| | |
| | |Track now due south-east to Tokar,
| | |surface hard and clayey, covered
| | |in places with drifted sand; bush
| | |3 to 6 feet high. Tokar signal
| | |tower visible.
| | |
| 3 | 55 |Leave the bush, across level mud
| | |plain to
| | |
_Tokar_ | 1 | 56 |Tokar, _vide_ Part I, Chap. III.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
5.—TRINKITAT TO TOKAR, _viâ_ TEB.
BY CAPTAIN BOWER, I.S.C., AND EDITOR, JULY, 1896.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Trinkitat | — | — |The whole road from Trinkitat to
| | |Tokar is passable for all arms,
| | |and it is only when approaching
| | |Tokar that the scrub about the
| | |country becomes thick enough to
| | |interfere with the action of
| | |cavalry.
| | |
| | |For 2½ miles from Trinkitat the
| | |road runs along a broad
| | |embankment, on which for 1 mile an
| | |18-inch gauge railway has been
| | |laid down. After leaving the
| | |embankment there is a sandy
| | |stretch, and then about 2 miles of
| | |narrow embankment just broad
| | |enough for the railway line. This
| | |embankment in places has rather a
| | |serpentine course, and would have
| | |to be straightened before rails
| | |could be laid down.
| | |
_El Teb_ | 7 | 7 |At El Teb there is a small fort,
| | |and an ample supply of water at a
| | |depth of 17 feet.
| | |
| | |Three wells inside fort and
| | |numerous ones outside, these
| | |latter mostly for animals.
| | |
| | |The water in the different wells
| | |varies in quality, but is all
| | |slightly brackish. No ill effects,
| | |however, appear to attend drinking
| | |it, and the men quartered there
| | |spoke favourably of it.
| | |
| | |The parapet of the fort is a brick
| | |wall 10 feet high, 1½ feet thick;
| | |ditch 11 feet broad, 8 feet deep.
| | |Signal tower as at Tokar, 43 feet
| | |high. Scene of battle of El Teb,
| | |29th February, 1884, just north of
| | |present fort.
| | |
| | |There are two roads from Teb to
| | |Tokar, both broad (30-50 yards)
| | |clearings through the bush. The
| | |“new” road is the straightest, but
| | |leads over soft sandhills and is
| | |rarely used. The other road bears
| | |gradually westwards a mile south
| | |of Teb, and cannot be missed if
| | |the traveller keeps on the west
| | |edge of the clearing. Excellent
| | |going for all arms. Bush on either
| | |side 3 to 10 feet high.
| | |
_Abdulla Rai_ | 8 | 15 |Junction of Suakin track. Abdulla
| | |Rai Fort, ½ mile west of track.
| | |
Tokar | 2½ | 17½ |Tokar.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
6.—(α) SUAKIN TO ERKOWIT, _viâ_ TAMANEB AND KHOR ARAB.
BY MAJOR POWELL, R.E., MARCH, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Suakin | — | — |Leaving Suakin by the Shaata Gate
| | |the track leads S.W. up the plain
| | |reaching the granite outcrops of
| | |the foot hills. Over broken, but
| | |easy ground to Tamaneb, where
| | |there is running water.
| | |
_Tamaneb_ | 8 | 18 |The track passes W. of Tamaneb and
| | |ascends the flat valley bottom of
| | |Khor Gwob to 22 miles, where the
| | |junction with the Khor Nagit is
| | |reached. Leaving the route to
| | |Sinkat, which goes on up Gwob, the
| | |track turns S.W. up Khor Nagit
| | |till 27 miles, and then crosses a
| | |short rocky agaba into Khor Manab.
| | |Descending this easy valley, at
| | |29½ miles the junction with Khor
| | |Arab is reached. To avoid a gorge
| | |the track ascends the hillside
| | |about 150 feet by a different rock
| | |path descending into the valley at
| | |30½ miles. Up the valley, easy
| | |going, for about a mile pass
| | |_running water_ (brackish and
| | |unpleasant), then ascend by steep
| | |zigzags up the left bank (1 in 4
| | |at worst), after ½ mile along the
| | |steep hillside cross the valley
| | |and rise by a steep path to the
| | |saddle separating Khor Arab from
| | |the Khor Dahand. Descend into the
| | |latter by a rocky path and, after
| | |ascending with difficulty the
| | |rocky torrent bed for another ½
| | |mile, reach the foot of the Agatba
| | |agaba at mile 34. A steep climb of
| | |¾ mile brings one to the summit,
| | |after which the route crosses easy
| | |rises and dips to Erkowit at mile
_Erkowit_ | 21 | 39 |39.
| | |
| | |Good hill camels lightly laden
| | |took 11 marching hours from
| | |Erkowit to Suakin by this route,
| | |and would take about 14 hours to
| | |ascend. The track is not fit for
| | |horses or fully laden mules.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
(β) SUAKIN TO ERKOWIT, _viâ_ KOLKALAI PASS.
BY MAJOR POWELL, R.E., MARCH, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Suakin | — | — |Track leaves Suakin S.S.W. over
| | |the plain. At mile 13 crosses Khor
| | |Gwob, a wide open wadi with low
| | |banks and thick bush. This Khor is
| | |occasionally impassable when in
| | |flood. About mile 16 the road
| | |reaches the granite outcrops of
| | |the foothills, and descends into a
_Taharoi_ | 17 | 17 |wadi at Taharoi (mile 17), where
| | |there are usually several wells
| | |much resorted to for watering
| | |flocks. This year only one well
| | |and that almost dry. Depth to
| | |water usually 10 feet.
| | |
| | |Tracks leads S. to Khor Tehela,
| | |leaving J. Gumberit to E. At mile
| | |20 usually a well, but dry this
| | |year. Then S.W. into the Khor
| | |Dahand at 25 miles; track enters
| | |the hills and goes for 3 miles up
| | |the easy valley. At mile 28 there
| | |is _water in the hill_ to S. and
| | |several Hadendoa tukls.
| | |
| | |Track then takes to hillside,
| | |rising by zigzags up the end of a
| | |spur. At first 1 in 6, then 1 in 4
| | |to the ridge, then very steeply 1
| | |in 3 to another col, by short
| | |zigzags and rocky steps; very bad
| | |for pack animals, but good hill
| | |camels get up with light loads.
| | |Track descends along hillside for
| | |about 1 mile; all green, with
| | |shrubs, grass and ferns.
| | |Francolin, partridge and quail
| | |plentiful. Some bad places in
| | |descent, then easy path, and again
| | |short difficult rise to the edge
| | |of the Erkowit plateau.
| | |
| | |Total ascent from Khor Dahand a
| | |little over 2,000 feet.
| | |
| | |Camels took 3 hours. The track is
| | |not fit to ride over.
| | |
_Erkowit_ | 17 | 34 |After about ¾ mile Erkowit is
| | |reached.
| | |
| | |Leaving this route at mile 20 a
| | |track leads up Khor Masilli, S. of
| | |Dahand; the bad ascent on this is
| | |shorter, but equally bad, and the
| | |whole distance is longer.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
7.—(α) ERKOWIT TO SINKAT, _viâ_ BARAMIL PLAINS.
BY MAJOR POWELL, R.E., MARCH, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Erkowit | — | — |South over easy ground to head of
| | |Khor Amrat, down the sandy bed of
| | |the khor W.N.W. Leaving the khor
| | |the track rises for ¼ mile over a
| | |stony slope, reaching the Baramil
| | |Plain at 4 miles from Erkowit. For
| | |14 miles the track runs W.N.W.
| | |over the firm surface of the
| | |plains. Large herds of ariel are
| | |seen, a few flocks and nomad
| | |Arabs, but no water. Down stony
| | |and occasionally narrow khor N.W.
_Towai Wells_ | 18¾ | 18¾ |to Towai Wells, which are at side
| | |of khor 12 feet deep. Water fair
| | |and plentiful.
| | |
_Sinkat_ | 2¾ | 21½ |Down Khor Towai over a low stony
| | |rise and descend W.N.W.; wide khor
| | |until it joins the open Sinkat
| | |Valley and reaches the well and
| | |ruins of the old Fort at 21½
| | |miles.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
(β) ERKOWIT TO SINKAT, _viâ_ KHOR GEBET.
BY MAJOR POWELL, R.E., MARCH, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Erkowit | — | — |Route descends the valley W.S.W.
| | |from Erkowit by rocky surface
| | |track over ridges and dips, rising
| | |after 2½ miles by a stony ascent
| | |to the edge of Baramil plateau.
| | |This length is the worst part of
| | |the route, it is practicable, but
| | |not good for loaded camels, and is
| | |easily capable of improvement by
| | |unskilled labour.
| | |
| | |Along Baramil plateau, W. for
| | |about 2 miles, then N.N.W. over
| | |gentle ascent, and cross an easy
| | |but stony agaba, and descent N.
| | |down a khor leading to the open
| | |valley of Gebet. No obstacle.
_Gebet Well_ | 14¼ | 14¼ |Gentle descent N.W. to the well at
| | |14¼ miles. Water good; large
| | |flocks and herds; one well 30 feet
| | |deep. Down the open valley W.N.W.
| | |3 miles, where route is joined by
| | |the direct track from Suakin to
| | |Sinkat, _viâ_ the Sinkat agaba,
| | |then W. 1 mile to a short stony
| | |agaba leading into the Khor Abu
| | |Shid, the main valley of which is
| | |reached at mile 20. Thence easy
| | |going over a wide wadi to Sinkat
_Sinkat_ | 8¾ | 23 |at mile 23.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
8.—KASSALA TO SUAKIN, _viâ_ FILIK, MAMAN, AND KHOR SITARAB.
BY LIEUT.-COL. MITFORD, APRIL, 1899.
(_Corrected up to_ 1900.)
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Kassala | — | — |On leaving Kassala, a N. by W.
| | |direction is taken over flat,
| | |sandy ground, intersected by small
| | |khors running into the Khor El
| | |Gash; many low trees of the acacia
| | |tribe and the green-leafed kurmet
| | |bush, but passage among them easy
| | |in any direction.
| | |
Khor Debeloeid| 5½ | 5½ |A shallow khor, flowing from
| | |S.S.W. to N.N.E. two miles on;
| | |this khor is recrossed, flowing
| | |westward; here the trees are
| | |thicker and taller.
| | |
Khor Gamam | 3½ | 9 |A branch of the Khor El Gash, 20
| | |feet deep, 15 to 20 yards wide;
| | |proceeding down the khor for ½
| | |mile the wells are reached. Banks
| | |thickly fringed with high
| | |tamarisks; bush very close.
| | |
_Bir Gamam_ | ½ | 9½ |Two wells; now 12 feet deep, 3
| | |feet diameter; water plentiful.
| | |Many wells exist now in this khor
| | |for about 2 miles N. from this
| | |point. After winding about in the
| | |bush for a mile, country again
| | |becomes open; many open spaces
| | |half-a-mile to a mile in breadth.
| | |Direction N. A good deal of
| | |cultivation here.
| | |
Gamam | 5½ | 15 |Formerly a large Hadendoa hamlet;
| | |its site now marked by a stony
| | |mound to the E. known as Habuba. A
| | |mile on one passes many skulls and
| | |human bones scattered all over the
| | |ground for some distance. This
| | |spot was the scene of the first
| | |encounter of the Kassala garrison
| | |and the Dervishes in the winter of
| | |1883-4. Later on Osman Digna had a
| | |large standing camp of Hadendoa at
| | |the same place. Arabs say “20,000
| | |young men” were collected there
| | |and guarded by Baggara horsemen,
| | |who, when food failed, refused to
| | |let them leave; so many hundreds
| | |died of starvation.
| | |
Hageror | 9 | 24 |The name of the district. At this
| | |point, 1 mile W. of our route, is
| | |the site of the old telegraph
| | |maintenance post of the old
| | |Suakin—Kassala telegraph line,
| | |close to a branch of the Khor El
| | |Gash (Khor Herbub). Arabs say
| | |water can be found 10 to 15 feet
| | |below the surface anywhere in this
| | |khor; fringed with high trees.
| | |Direction now is E.N.E.; country
| | |as before, but cotton soil.
| | |
Khor Bahr | 3½ | 27½ |A shallow depression, 200 to 300
Shamil | | |yards broad, no defined banks,
| | |thickly grown over by laot trees.
| | |
Khor Delai | 3 | 30½ |Twenty yards broad, 4 feet deep,
| | |flowing W. High trees along banks.
| | |At the 33rd mile the trees
| | |disappear; country is cotton soil
| | |with tussocks of grass, full of
| | |holes and breaks away at every
| | |step. Very bad going for men and
| | |animals. As the Khor Herbub is
| | |approached, grass, 3 feet high,
| | |becomes thicker.
| | |
Khor Herbub | 10¾ | 41¼ |A branch of the Gash, 20 feet
| | |broad, 20 feet deep. Proceed due
| | |W. for 1¼ miles through high
| | |trees.
| | |
_Bir Tokar_ | 1¼ | 42½ |One well,[7] 20 feet deep, 3 feet
| | |diameter, 1 foot of water at
| | |bottom of well. After drawing 400
| | |gallons supply was exhausted and
| | |water came in very slowly. Water
| | |good. Good grazing for horses and
| | |camels, and plenty of shade.
| | |Retracing one’s steps back across
| | |the Khor Herbub, a direction 72°
| | |(true) was taken and followed as
| | |far as Khor Togan. Bad cotton soil
| | |and tussocks of grass as before.
| | |
_Filik_ | 2½ | 45 |Formerly the largest and most
| | |important collection of hamlets of
| | |the Hadendoa of the Gash. Now no
| | |traces, with the exception of
| | |three charred dom palm trees,
| | |which supported the roof of the
| | |old telegraph maintenance post.
| | |Many wells, and water plentiful in
| | |Khor Tokar ½ mile W.
| | |
| | |Going very bad; at the 49th mile
| | |belts of laot trees are passed
| | |through. At the 53rd mile surface
| | |of ground improves; more sandy,
| | |with patches of small stones or
| | |pebbles.
| | |
J. Tisheiga | 11 | 56 |One mile to right. Ground now
| | |descends gently; several small
| | |khors are crossed, running
| | |westward; trees in khors and along
| | |banks, kittr and samr. Ground
| | |sandy, with occasional patches of
| | |stones; excellent going.
| | |
Khor Yelkuk | 5 | 61 |Also called Telkuk. One hundred
| | |yards broad, flowing westwards.
| | |Ten miles up this khor are wells
| | |and an Arab settlement. Many
| | |trees; good grazing for camels.
| | |Two miles to the north are low
| | |black hills called J. Kadabu.
| | |Country as before.
| | |
Khor Taugon | 5½ | 66½ |One hundred yards broad, banks 4
| | |feet high. One well here not yet
| | |reopened, in bed of khor; high
| | |trees and dom palms in bed and
| | |along banks. Two and half miles E.
| | |is J. Taugon. General direction
| | |62°.
| | |
Khor Shamfeid | 2½ | 69 |A small khor running into Khor
| | |Maman. Same direction being
| | |followed, J. Maman with its four
| | |peaks straight ahead. Ground rises
| | |gently and then descends towards
| | |the Khor Maman; with stones in
| | |places.
| | |
Khor Maman | 6 | 75 |One hundred yards broad, banks 4
| | |feet high; many high trees and
| | |doms; excellent grazing for
| | |camels. Crossing the khor and
| | |following up its right bank for 1½
| | |miles the wells are reached. Under
| | |J. Maman are seen many hundreds of
| | |stone huts, which, according to
| | |the Arabs, were built many
| | |centuries ago; also many large
| | |stone graves.
| | |
_Bir Maman_ | 1½ | 76½ |Two wells, 40 feet deep, 3 feet
| | |diameter, water good and plentiful
| | |at all seasons.
| | |
| | |On leaving the wells, the track,
| | |very faint, over stony ground,
| | |made by the party constructing the
| | |new telegraph line, was followed
| | |for the next 40 miles. The
| | |telegraph line itself is within
| | |sight of the track on one side or
| | |the other. Track proceeds up khor
| | |for ¾ mile, then passes round S.E.
| | |corner of J. Maman, and turns due
| | |N. J. Maman on the W. and J. Tudab
| | |on the E. form a pass, 1½ to 2
| | |miles broad; ground sandy, with
| | |patches of stones; flat, good
| | |going; several small khors are
| | |crossed.
| | |
Khor Hashaneid| 6 | 82½ |One hundred yards broad, 3 feet
| | |banks. Dom palms and trees.
| | |
Khor Tudab | 2 | 84½ |
| | |
Khor Fagada | 2 | 86½ |
| | |
Khor Toteb | 1 | 87½ |Eighty yards broad, 5 feet banks.
| | |Runs into the Khor Kudameieb. Dom
| | |palms, kittr, samr, and the
| | |thornless kurmet trees. One and a
| | |half miles E. is J. Yaied, some
| | |1,500 feet high, and 6 to 7 miles
| | |long, a mass of black basaltic
| | |rock, steeply escarped on its
| | |western side.
| | |
| | |For the next 12 miles, ground
| | |traversed is hard sand, sloping
| | |from hills on the E., and covered
| | |with stones; very bad going; in
| | |the small watercourses (during
| | |rains) are belts of samr and kittr
| | |trees.
| | |
Khor Gedamaieb| 4½ | 92 |Fifty yards broad, 6 feet banks.
| | |Trees; 2 miles on, a similar khor
| | |is crossed, bearing the same name.
| | |
| | |At 96½ miles the top of a
| | |watershed is reached, and J.
| | |Kureib comes in sight, E.N.E. J.
| | |Bakutneb is some 3 or 4 miles to
| | |the N.
| | |
Khor Abuladein| 7½ | 99½ |Twenty yards broad, 6 feet banks.
| | |Ground now sandy, and more trees.
| | |
Khor Serera | 4 | 103½ |One hundred yards broad, 6 feet
| | |banks. Dom palms. Runs into the
| | |Khor Abu Ledein.
| | |
Khor Togul | 3¼ | 106¾ |Thirty yards broad, 3 feet banks.
| | |Follow the khor 1 mile down
| | |stream.
| | |
_Bir Ali | 1 | 107¾ |One well 40 feet deep, 2 feet 6
Kalai_ | | |inches diameter; water good, but
| | |supply only 300 gallons at date,
| | |and refilled very slowly. Khor
| | |Weidab joins Khor Togul from the
| | |S. lower down.
| | |
| | |Returning up the khor 1 mile, a
| | |N.E. direction is taken. Ground
| | |very stony and undulating, and
| | |intersected by several large
| | |khors. Trees in watercourses and
| | |along banks of khor. The track
| | |runs more or less parallel with J.
| | |Kureib, 4 or 5 miles distant to
| | |the E.; a range some 8 miles long,
| | |2,300 feet (approximate) above the
| | |general level, very precipitous on
| | |western side; black basaltic
| | |rocks.
| | |
Watershed | 9¼ | 117 |Up to this point all khors crossed
| | |run into the Khor El Gash;
| | |northwards of this watershed,
| | |khors run into the Khor Langeb.
| | |
Khor Arideib | 4 | 121 |The direction of the new telegraph
| | |line is left 3 miles before
| | |reaching this khor. Direction
| | |N.N.W. Low ground sandy, with
| | |trees and grass; high ground stony
| | |and rocky.
| | |
Khor Kei-Eiteb| 5 | 126 |
| | |
Khor Gambeleib| 1½ | 127½ |The downward course of this khor,
| | |trending W. and S.W., is now
| | |followed for 4½ miles; several
| | |subsidiary khors join it from
| | |either side. Water could probably
| | |be found anywhere here, as trees
| | |are finer and creepers are
| | |festooned along the trees; many
| | |kurmet bushes, marakh, and tundub;
| | |good grazing for camels.
| | |
_Bir | 4 | 132 |Also called Bir Akrat. One well 50
Hamashaueb_ | | |feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water
| | |good and plentiful.
| | |
| | |Returning up the khor for 2 miles
| | |to where Khor Gambeleib joins Khor
| | |Homashaueb, the upward course of
| | |the latter khor is followed for 2
| | |miles, and then a N.N.E. direction
| | |taken. Ground very stony and
| | |rising; intersected by small khors
| | |running from hills to the east.
| | |
Khor Omli | 12 | 144 |No defined banks; its course
| | |marked by the trees.
| | |
_Khor | 4 | 148 |Also called Khor Kubri. One well
Yaskalab_ | | |here 45 feet deep, 3 feet
| | |diameter; water good, but supply
| | |uncertain; it is generally dry at
| | |this time of the year.
| | |
Khor Hedaweb | 5 | 153 |Similar to Khor Gambeleib. One and
| | |half miles down the khor is Bir
_Bir Hadaueb_ | 1 | 154 |Hedaweb. One well 9 feet deep, 3
| | |feet 6 inches diameter; water good
| | |and plentiful; there is said to be
| | |a better well 1 to 2 miles further
| | |down the khor.
| | |
| | |On the south side of the khor,
| | |close to the well, are the remains
| | |of the old telegraph line
| | |maintenance post.
| | |
| | |Returning up the khor ½ mile, a
| | |branch khor coming in from the N.
| | |is followed up past a large
| | |graveyard. At the 156th mile this
| | |khor is left, and the neck between
| | |two rocky hills is crossed. Going
| | |very bad; rough and stony.
| | |
Khor Belag | 6½ | 160½ |Two hundred yards broad, 2 feet
| | |banks. Excellent grazing for
| | |camels in this khor. For 7 miles
| | |its downward course is followed.
| | |Arabs say that it flows into Khor
| | |Windi, but at 167½ miles the khor
| | |appears dammed up with sand dunes
| | |8 to 10 feet high, and its level
| | |is the same as that of the
| | |surrounding country.
| | |
Khor Hegadab | 8¼ | 168¾ |Flows towards the E. Ground
| | |ascends, and a mile on a stony
| | |pass between the hills is reached.
| | |J. Adarabab now comes in sight,
| | |noticeable from several chimney-
| | |like rocks which stand up above
| | |the general level of the top of
| | |the range. A short descent, then a
| | |sandy plain with patches of stones
| | |in places.
| | |
Khor Windi | 4 | 172¾ |This khor is entered, and its
| | |down-stream course followed for
| | |the next 8 miles. No water now
| | |obtainable in this khor; trees are
| | |more stunted, and their leaves
| | |more yellow and dried up than in
| | |the preceding khors. At 177½ miles
| | |is the site of the old telegraph
| | |maintenance post and well, now
| | |filled in many years ago.
| | |
| | |At 180 miles the khor is left, and
| | |a plain traversed, alternately
| | |sandy with tufts of grass and
| | |stony; several narrow deep khors
| | |are crossed. At 188¼ miles the
| | |level of the country suddenly
| | |drops some 20 feet.
| | |
| | |Tamarisk bushes and trees
| | |commence.
| | |
Khor Langeb | 19¼ | 192 |One hundred and fifty to three
| | |hundred yards broad, banks 15 to
| | |20 feet high. Banks on either side
| | |thickly fringed with tamarisk
| | |trees; excellent grazing for
| | |camels. Arabs are restarting
| | |breeding camels in the vicinity of
| | |this khor; one drove of nearly 300
| | |young camels were seen. One day
| | |S.W. up this khor, Khor Odeib is
| | |said to enter it; all the khors
| | |already enumerated, from Khor
| | |Areideb to Hedaweb inclusive, run
| | |into Khor Odeib. Half a day to the
| | |E. Khor Windi joins it.
| | |
_Bir | 1½ | 193½ |One and a quarter miles up this
Tamashnauer_ | | |khor is the well; 25 feet deep, 3
| | |feet diameter; water plentiful,
| | |but very smelly and brackish.
| | |Arabs state that at present there
| | |are no wells open further up the
| | |khor; lower down are more wells
| | |and a few pools.
| | |
| | |Returning ¾ mile down the khor, a
| | |direction N. by E. is taken;
| | |several small tributary khors are
| | |crossed, and then ground ascends
| | |gently and becomes stony.
| | |
| | |The next 45 miles is known as the
| | |Wadi Ossir. J. Adarabab and Shaba
| | |on the E., and a series of ranges
| | |of hills on the W. form the sides,
| | |8 to 10 miles apart. These hills
| | |form a funnel through which the
| | |wind blows steadily during the
| | |winter months; sand storms very
| | |frequent.
| | |
J. Karamriba | 4½ | 198 |Two black stony hills, 200 feet
| | |high; ½ mile to W.
| | |
Eilogwa | 3 | 201 |In the hills to the E., 3 to 4
| | |miles from the track, are said to
| | |be rock _cisterns with water_;
| | |supply said to last from rains to
| | |rains.
| | |
Khor Ossir | 5 | 206 |Flowing S.W. Runs into Khor
| | |Langeb.
| | |
El Fogani | 2½ | 208½ |The same khor is recrossed,
| | |flowing S.E. Good grazing along
| | |and in this khor.
| | |
| | |Direction N.N.E. Ground still
| | |rising gently; sandy, with
| | |tamarisks bushes and samr trees,
| | |very stunted, 4 to 5 feet high.
| | |Some marakh and araag trees.
| | |Occasional belts of stony ground.
| | |
Watershed | 16 | 224½ |Top of the watershed is reached; ½
| | |mile to W. is a low stony mound,
| | |50 feet. Ground now falls from J.
| | |Shaba range towards the western
| | |hills.
| | |
Khor Shenkerat| 5 | 229½ |Three to four miles to E.; in the
| | |hills are said to be _rock
| | |cisterns_. The old telegraph
| | |maintenance post is under the
| | |hills. Ground now becomes very
| | |stony, falling towards the W. and
| | |N.; in the shallow depression
| | |between the flat spurs are
| | |Abyssinian aloes. Three miles on
| | |ground becomes more sandy, and
| | |samr, marakh, and some laurel-like
| | |bushes are passed through,
| | |becoming thicker as the khor is
| | |approached.
| | |
Khor Ossir El | 9 | 238½ |Fifty to one hundred yards broad,
Tahtani | | |5 feet banks; flows N.E. The range
| | |of hills on the E. now terminates.
| | |A sandy plain is now crossed;
| | |scattered samr, etc.
| | |
J. Meiz | 5 | 243½ |A low conical hill is passed close
| | |to the track to the E. 3 to 4
| | |miles to the W. in the range of
| | |hills Arabs point out J. Maiz,
| | |where _water_ is said to be
| | |plentiful.
| | |
| | |For 2 miles stony ground, then
| | |sandy again; track passes through
| | |several groups of low detached
| | |hills. At 254½ miles ground
| | |becomes more cut up with khors,
| | |and gradually ascends and becomes
| | |very stony; the last mile into
| | |Khor Siterab is a stony defile;
| | |going very bad and in single file.
| | |A sharp ascent into the khor.
| | |
_Khor Sitarab_| 16½ | 260 |A rocky khor 20 to 50 yards wide;
| | |bounded by hills 40 to 60 feet
| | |high on either side. In the bed of
| | |the khor are great blocks of
| | |granite, through the interstices
| | |of which percolates water, which
| | |collects in the clay bed of the
| | |khor and forms small pools at
| | |close intervals all down the khor,
| | |averaging 15 to 20 feet long, 2 to
| | |4 feet broad, and 6 inches deep.
| | |Water very brackish, osher bushes,
| | |a few tamarisks, shush grass and
| | |reeds grow in the bed of the khor.
| | |
| | |From the khor a well defined track
| | |runs all the way to Suakin. For 4
| | |miles ground is very stony and
| | |broken; few sammur trees.
| | |
Khor Alifeyeit| 4 | 264 |Two hundred yards broad, 10 feet
| | |banks, sandy bed. Ground now
| | |becomes sandy, and trees thicker;
| | |samr, araag, heglig, labakh and
| | |tundub trees. Gow grass during and
| | |after rains; good sheep grazing
| | |ground.
| | |
Khors Sedayat,| 5 | 269 |These four khors are all crossed
Ashat, Erim, | | |in 1½ miles; no defined tracks;
and Shadat | | |trees and bush in bed and
| | |alongside the khors. A few miles
| 1½ | 270½ |eastwards these khors open out
| | |into the plain. For the next 3½
| | |miles ground is stony.
| | |
Khor Issi or | 1½ | 272 |Fifty yards broad, 2 feet banks.
Issei | | |
| | |
Khor Sarobai | 2 | 274 |No defined tracks; sandy; trees
| | |and bush.
| | |
Khor Wintri | 4¼ | 278¼ |A point of crossing; this khor has
| | |commenced to divide up into
| | |branches.
| | |
| | |Four miles on J. Gumberit is
| | |passed 1 mile to the W. Country
| | |more open; eastward a clear view
| | |down to the sea.
| | |
Khor Gwob | 10¾ | 289 |One hundred to two hundred broad,
| | |shallow, no defined banks. Ground
| | |descends gently, and on reaching
| | |the ridge, ¾ mile distant, the
| | |town of Suakin comes in sight.
| | |Trees become fewer and bushes
Suakin | 8 | 297 |lower.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
9.—TOKAR TO KASSALA, _viâ_ KHOR BARAKA.
(VARIOUS.)
[Sidenote: Grazing.]
Plenty for camels, &c., all along the route.
[Sidenote: Water.]
Anywhere for the digging, except between Khor Lokweb and Khor Ali
Gebrat, 28 miles, and between the latter and Kassala, 18 miles.
[Sidenote: Camping ground.]
Good anywhere along the route.
[Sidenote: Wood.]
Plenty for fuel and for making rough shelters.
[Sidenote: Going.]
On the whole excellent for camels, horses, &c. Convoys should not
take more than 14 days to do the journey from Suakin.
Parties without heavy baggage should do it easily in 9 days.
N.B.—As the major portion of this route leads through Italian
territory, it is not now generally used south of Khor Langeb (_vide_
note to Khor Langeb, 51st mile).
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Tokar | — | — |Leaving Tokar, the track runs a
| | |little west of south across the
| | |plains, leaving the Khor Baraka
| | |channel to the west.
| | |
| 10 | 10 |Traversing a broken tract, covered
| | |with eminences strewn with sand,
| | |enter the Khor Baraka. Vegetation
| | |on much larger scale; tall
| | |tamarisk trees. Channel 50 yards
| | |broad; hard sand; excellent going;
| | |banks 10 to 12 feet high, and
| | |thickly wooded.
| | |
| | |There are more routes than one;
| | |sometimes along the channel, or on
| | |either bank, according to season
| | |or circumstances. Broadly, the
| | |Beni Amer inhabit the eastern
| | |bank, and the Hadendoa the
| | |western.
| | |
_Temeren_ | 2 | 12 |(Tamenrê = 10 wells.) The wells
| | |here, two in number, are situated
| | |in the bed of the Khor Baraka,
| | |depth about 20 feet, and produce
| | |plenty of water of a brackish
| | |nature. Another account (1897)
| | |says two wells, close to fort; one
| | |well only used, good water 50 feet
| | |down. The khor here is about 80
| | |paces wide, with low banks, and is
| | |comparatively bare of trees.
| | |During the floods of the Baraka,
| | |these wells are flushed, the water
| | |being thick and impregnated with
| | |alluvial mud. The country on the
| | |left bank is open and stony, and
| | |remains so until the line of the
| | |Jebel Shaba hills is reached. To
| | |the right bank of the khor a
| | |certain amount of cultivation
| | |exists, which increases in amount
| | |as the Tokar delta is reached.
| | |Heina range visible to south.
| | |
| | |Jebel Shaba lies 26 miles W.S.W.
| | |of Temeren; track to it clearly
| | |marked over stony plain by
| | |occasional stone heaps. Contains
| | |grass, ravines, shrubs, and
| | |_numerous pools of water_ (July);
| | |one large deep pool at foot of
| | |hill containing water all year
| | |round. Good look-out post in all
| | |directions.
| | |
| | |The route, after leaving Temeren,
| | |bears for a mile or so south-east
| | |to avoid the numerous sand dunes
| | |and drifts lying close to the
| | |right bank of the khor, and then
| | |changes southwards.
| | |
| 2 | 14 |A belt of considerable bush is now
| | |passed through, after which the
| | |country becomes open, rough, and
| | |sandy; the khor about ½ a-mile to
| | |the right-hand side.
| | |
_Well_ | 1 | 15 |One well; good water.
| | |
| | |The route continues in a generally
| | |southerly direction, passing
| | |through sand dunes, covered with a
| | |considerable growth of tamarisk
| | |bushes sufficiently high to
| | |conceal a mounted man.
| | |
| 1 | 16 |Khor Toshikh joins the Baraka on
| | |the west bank; route enters the
| | |Baraka.
| | |
| | |Here large khor also runs in from
| | |the east, main channel now from 30
| | |to 40 yards wide, banks varying to
| | |30 feet high. Natives say the
| | |whole of this bit of country for a
| | |mile west, and to Jebel Haina
| | |east, is under water in the rainy
| | |season. Tamarisk bushes line each
| | |side, nothing can be seen from the
| | |channel.
| | |
| | |Seven miles on, track leaves the
| | |khor, runs west on a sandy plain
| | |for a mile. Eleven miles on a
| | |black hill 150 feet high runs from
| | |west bank half across the khor.
| | |
| | |The hill of Haina runs down to top
| | |of channel on east side; a narrow
| | |gorge is thus made, through which
| | |the rush of water at flood is very
| | |great. When it is a very high
| | |flood, a channel is also formed
| | |round the west side of the hill.
| | |Just beyond this there are some
| | |old disused wells in the channel
Lower | 7 | 23 |that were known as Lower
Debetawateb | | |Debetawateb. After this, the khor
| | |opens out to about 800 yards wide,
| | |sand dunes and scrub everywhere,
| | |track winds round almost due west,
_Upper | 3½ | 26½ |and reaches Upper Debetawateb,
Debetawateb_ | | |where there are two wells, plenty
| | |of good water, close to surface.
| | |Track leaves channel here and runs
| | |½ mile through thick jungle on to
| | |east bank, and then winds round
| | |south over sandy plain. Five miles
| | |on, guide pointed due west to
| | |
_Odwan_ | 5 | 31½ |Odwan, lying in the khor, one
| | |well. Eight miles on, hills of
| | |Shaba and Heina run down to banks
| | |of channel, track leads east of
| | |some low hills, and khor is seen
| | |winding west a good deal.
| | |
Tefadi | 5 | 36½ |Some large sand hills in khor,
| | |guide said this was Tefadi. No
| | |well, but water easily got by
| | |digging. Track now leads over bad
| | |ground broken up by watercourses,
| | |sand dunes, &c., and re-enters
| | |channel 4 miles on, then leaves it
| | |and runs on to west bank, winding
| | |gradually south-west into Khor
Laiameib | 6½ | 43 |Farag Salem. (Laiameib.)
| | |
_Farag Saleib_| 3 | 46 |Here there are 12 or more pools of
| | |water, rather salt. This khor runs
| | |south-east into Khor Baraka, and
| | |where it meets it, there is a
| | |small stone enclosure on a hill
| | |held by Arabs under Sheikh Abu
| | |Fatma, called Langeb. There is one
| | |well in valley at foot of hill.
| | |
| | |From Khor Farag Salem is seen
| | |Jebel Ada Abab, about 10 miles to
| | |the south-west. The track runs
| | |from this khor south-east, then
| | |south-west over rocky ground,
| | |skirting the Khor Baraka, of which
| | |the east bank is lined with hills.
| | |
Khor Langeb[8]| 5 | 51 |Five miles on track enters
| | |channel, and 100 yards further
| | |Khor Langeb[8] runs in from the
| | |west, about 25 yards wide, and
| | |described as similar to Khor
| | |Baraka. Directly afterwards the
| | |track leaves khor and proceeds for
| | |8 miles over stony ground on west
| | |bank, and then for 11 miles over
| | |alternate rocky and sandy plains,
| | |direction south, then re-enters
| | |khor and passes pool of dirty
| | |water, and after heavy going in
| | |the channel reaches two pools with
| | |any quantity of clear sweet water,
_Tebhateit_ | 23 | 74 |called Tebhateit.
| | |
| | |[Other accounts of the road from
| | |Khor Toshikh to Tebhateit are as
| | |follows:—
| | |
| 10 | 22 |At 10 miles from Temeren a large
| | |number of sandhills are reached,
| | |covered with a good deal of scrub
| | |and tamarisk trees. These
| | |sandhills proceed from the
| | |neighbourhood of the khor towards
| | |the Jebel Heina; they are not of
| | |any height, but would form
| | |admirable concealment for horse
| | |and foot men. After passing
| | |through the sandhills, the route
| | |re-enters the khor, being the
| | |first point the khor is touched
| | |since Temeren. The khor here is
| | |about 50 paces wide, with a firm
| | |sandy bottom, fringed by scrub,
| | |though not of a dense character.
| | |
| | |There is also a track along the
| | |west bank of the Khor Baraka from
| | |Temeren to Langeb (Junker’s road),
| | |but it is bad, leading through
| | |thick bush and wood, and much
| | |broken by numerous small khors.
| | |
_Debetawateb_ | 3 | 25 |Wells. About 35 water holes 5 feet
| | |deep, situated close to west bank
| | |of khor. Wells mostly together,
| | |water brackish (April). The wells
| | |are placed in what practically is
| | |a gorge. The left bank rises in a
| | |rocky hill from 150 to 200 feet
| | |high, and gradually falls away
| | |into a wide open stony plain,
| | |which, with occasional rocky
| | |isolated hills, extends to the
| | |high mountain of Jebel Shaba. On
| | |the right bank the hills are
| | |higher, formed into numerous
| | |peaks, the hills gradually losing
| | |themselves in the Jebel Haina. The
| | |rush of water down this gorge is
| | |very considerable when the Baraka
| | |is in flood; it is said to be of
| | |such force as to sweep a camel
| | |with ease before it. The hills of
| | |this gorge would form a fair
| | |position; though, perhaps, capable
| | |of being turned by the west. Such
| | |dense scrub approaches to within a
| | |few yards of the south side of the
| | |hill on the left bank that it
| | |would enable an enemy on the hill
| | |to defend himself from this bush
| | |with reasonable prospects of
| | |success, and make it a difficult
| | |operation to touch the top of the
| | |ridge of the hills without
| | |carrying the bush. This gorge
| | |would seem to be the best place to
| | |put a barrage, should such a work
| | |ever be contemplated. After
| | |leaving the wells the route
| | |follows the khor, which now opens
| | |out very considerably. The west
| | |bank is covered with dense bush,
| | |mostly tamarisk trees; the east
| | |bank has a considerable amount of
| | |bush, but the belt is not so broad
| | |or so high as that on the opposite
| | |bank.
| | |
| 2 | 27 |After about ¾ hour is reached a
| | |large patch of dura crop planted
| | |in the bed of the khor, dense bush
| | |continuing on the left bank; after
| | |½ hour, reach a few water holes on
| | |the right side of the khor,
| | |evidently used for the cultivation
| | |of the above-mentioned dura. After
| | |passing the cultivation the khor
| | |maintains the same general
| | |appearance.
| | |
| | |From here a short cut may be made
| | |to Tamatu by leaving the khor, and
| | |marching over a scrubby plain,
| | |going rough, and cut up by small
| | |khors and hills.
| | |
| | |The path now leads by the right
| | |bank of the khor, and clear of it;
| | |the ground here is much cut up by
| | |ravines and watercourses, covered
| | |with dense bush, in fact might be
| | |described as a regular jungle.
| | |After passing this rough ground
| | |the khor is again struck at
| | |
_Odwan_ | 4 | 31 |The khor here is in a channel 16
(meaning great| | |to 18 feet deep; the channel
waterpot). | | |bifurcates, the old bed passing in
| | |a westerly direction, the new
| | |cutting for itself a passage in a
| | |more northerly direction. Pools
| | |here before the Baraka floods,
| | |running water in winter. No
| | |definite wells. On 16th July,
| | |1894, the khor here was a rapid
| | |stream, 40 to 50 yards broad, and
| | |4 feet deep.
| | |
| | |Khor takes sharp bend to the west.
| | |Bush on either bank very dense;
| | |tamarisks and bushes bound
| | |together with bright green
| | |creepers.
| | |
_Tamatu_ (or | 6 | 37 |Fifty wells near west (?) bank of
Tefadi?) | | |khor, 5 feet deep; water brackish.
| | |
| | |Route now goes along bed of khor,
| | |good going, muddy soil with
| | |patches of sand. Banks 4 feet high
| | |and densely wooded. Four miles (?)
| | |on, the khor is left, and an open
| | |plain to the west crossed, covered
| | |with scattered scrub, ground
| | |generally stony. Spurs of Shaba
| | |range extend to within half mile
| | |of khor.
| | |
_Laiameib_ | 8 | 45 |Lies a mile to the west of the
| | |Khor Baraka, and is reached by
| | |proceeding up a stony tributary
| | |khor with occasional trees, a few
| | |dom palms marking the entrance to
| | |the khor. This point is called
| | |Khashm Lwi (?); sides of khor 50
| | |to 100 feet high. The wells lie at
| | |the foot of a mass of irregular
| | |rocks, which stop further advance.
| | |
| | |The reservoir of rain water is
| | |situated under the rocks, and is
| | |reached by a narrow downward
| | |passage which finally opens into a
| | |subterranean cave. The entrance to
| | |the cave is sufficiently high and
| | |wide to admit the passage of two
| | |horses at the same time. The
| | |water, perhaps 6 feet deep, is of
| | |excellent quality and most
| | |delicious to drink, covering about
| | |15 feet square, and taking up the
| | |greater part of the cave.
| | |
Khor Farag | 3 | 48 |Three miles south of the Khor
Saleib | | |Laiameib, the Khor Farag Saleib is
| | |crossed. Here the Baraka forms a
| | |lake in flood time.
| | |
Langeb | 3 | 51 |The entrance to the khor of that
| | |name, which trends south-west from
| | |here.
| | |
_Tebhateit_ | 12 | 63 |Good wells; ground hilly. Jebel
| | |Haggr, 6,000 feet.
| | |
| | |(From this point Captain McKerrell
| | |is the authority.)
| | |
| | |After Tebhateit (74 miles) the
| | |track now runs on to east bank,
| | |and winds gradually south over
| | |broken rocky ground; 5 miles on
| | |re-enters khor, and runs through
| | |dense mass of tamarisk and scrub
| | |into channel 100 yards wide here,
| | |and khor ½ to ¾ mile wide.
| | |
_Ambakta_ | 8 | 82 |Shortly afterwards reach Khor
| | |Ambakta, with one well. This is
| | |where Sudan-Eritrea boundary meets
| | |the Baraka on the east bank. Jebel
| | |Senad, to the west, is a good
| | |landmark here, and Jebel Ayob, on
| | |east. Channel now twists about a
| | |good deal, then runs south-west;
| | |both banks lined with hills.
| | |
_Hakhal_ | 8 | 90 |Eight miles on is Hakal; one well,
| | |6 feet down, good water.
| | |
_Adardeb_ | 9 | 99 |Track continues south-west and
| | |enters Eritrean territory, and 9
| | |miles on reaches Adardeb, with
| | |three wells, 4 feet down; good
| | |water. Three miles on channel
| | |splits up and runs east and west;
| | |track leads over ground between.
| | |Very bad going over ground broken
| | |up by watercourses and sand dunes
| | |for next 6 miles; channel is then
| | |re-entered and Khor Salha is
| | |reached.
| | |
_Khor Salha_ | 10 | 109 |Five wells, 4 feet down, good
| | |water. This is a large khor
Khor Anseba | — | — |running in from the east, and is
| | |itself joined by Khor Anseba,
| | |about 10 miles east, which latter
| | |khor comes from south-east. From
| | |here Jebel Adarkalab, a very high
| | |hill, is seen due south, and Jebel
| | |Skena due west, a cone-shaped
| | |hill. Track leaves channel here
| | |and runs along east bank, passing,
| | |3 miles on, two stone pepper pots,
| | |built by Dervishes. Bad going over
| | |very broken ground, intersected by
| | |watercourses, for next 8 miles;
| | |then re-enters channel and reaches
| | |four wells, water 4 feet down, and
| | |some small rain pools, from one of
| | |which two fish were caught. One
Jebel Sotai | 9 | 118 |hundred yards on is Jebel Sotai on
| | |west, and Jebel Adarkalab on east,
| | |bank; latter swarming with grey
| | |monkeys. These hills are about 60
| | |yards apart, and the rush of water
| | |between them at flood must be very
| | |great.
| | |
_Akiduli | 4 | 122 |Four miles on is a black rock,
(Koliteb?)_ | | |called “Akiduli,” on east bank,
| | |with figures of camels, men, and
| | |ostriches scratched over it. Water
| | |here also in pools and old wells,
| | |in places only 2 feet down.
| | |Further on is Khor Attai, with
| | |wells; water good, and 4 feet
_Khor Attai_ | 2 | 124 |down.
| | |
| | |Track now runs south, and hills
| | |recede on either side; khor
| | |widening to about a mile east and
| | |west; channel 100 yards, and
| | |shallow, lined with thick tamarisk
| | |and bush. Thirteen miles on passed
| | |several wells, old and new, and
| | |later khor contracts and hills run
_Kolik_ | 18 | 142 |down on either flank; reach Kolik.
| | |
| | |Jebel Koreb is seen here, a
| | |landmark to the west. There is
| | |water. Then track leaves khor and
| | |crosses west on to a wide, fairly
| | |open, sandy plain. Long range of
| | |black hills on east, running with
| | |khor, country west much more open
| | |and hills far away. Six miles on,
_Khor | 6 | 148 |cross Khor Tamaguanti, running
Tamaguanti_ | | |south-west, which is lined with
| | |dom palms, has an old well with
| | |good water, and a few inhabitants.
| | |Track continues over plain passing
| | |“Mala” of Sheikh Abu Tahir, who
| | |was head of the Hadendoa tribe in
| | |Mohammed Ali’s time. Here there
| | |are between 200 and 300 graves;
| | |plain is covered with coarse grass
| | |and acacia.
| | |
_Khor Lokweb_ | 11 | 159 |Track now leaves Khor Baraka and
| | |enters Khor Lokweb, a large khor
| | |running into the Baraka from the
| | |south-west; channel, lined with
| | |any number of dom palms, 100 yards
| | |wide; banks 15 to 20 feet high.
| | |Two good wells here, water 5 feet
| | |down; track continues in khor,
| | |direction south-west, for 2 miles
| | |and comes to two new wells, water
| | |6 feet down. Then leaves khor to
| | |avoid heavy sand, and runs
| | |parallel to it on west bank, but
| | |here also going is bad, over very
| | |broken ground covered with bush.
| | |Eight miles on track runs over
| | |rocky ground, two hills appear on
| | |both flanks. Sixteen miles on
| | |passes old stone house on hill to
| | |left and shortly after re-enters
_Khashm El | 19 | 178 |Khor Lokweb at spot called Khashm
Kawab_ | | |El Kawab, where there were two
| | |wells, water 3 feet down, slightly
| | |salt. Track now runs south-west
| | |and then for 8 miles west. Channel
| | |blocked by large stone boulders
| | |after first mile, bad going
| | |through deep sand, dom palms on
| | |both banks, also saw two withered
| | |Tebeldis with edible fruit like an
| | |elongated pear. Six miles on
_Khashm | 6 | 184 |reached three wells called Khashm
Hodelt_ | | |Hodelt. Eight miles on, left khor
| | |and marched west over plain,
| | |covered with acacia, &c. Then re-
_Khashm | 6 | 190 |entered khor and reached three at
Ribdab_ | | |Khashm Ribdab, good water.
| | |
| | |No water for the next 28 miles.
| | |
| | |Track leaves Khor Lokweb now,
| | |which runs west, and enters Khor
| | |Ribdab. Channel 50 to 100 yards
| | |wide, with low banks covered with
| | |bush, hard sandy bottom, excellent
| | |going, direction due south.
| | |Sighted here, due south, curious
| | |grey hill, with top sticking up
Jebel | 8 | 198 |like a chimney, called Jebel Irkit
Irkit-Anob | | |Anob, a good land mark. Natives
| | |said no one had ever been able to
| | |climb to its top. Three miles on
| | |reached plain, where the old
| | |Mamuria stood. Five miles on
| | |passed close to the above-
| | |mentioned hill, leaving it on our
| | |left. Track shortly afterwards
| | |leaves khor and runs west over
| | |plain of acacia, coarse grass, &c.
| | |Nine miles on reached hill called
| | |Tiniki, with a single thorn tree
| | |on its east shoulder, moved round
| | |its east flank in single file into
| | |plain beyond; direction west, bad
| | |going, and axes had to be used in
| | |places. Fifteen miles on sighted
| | |Jebel Kassala to south-west. Bush-
| | |grown plain. Shortly after track
| | |passes between low hills on the
Jebel | 16 | 214 |right, called Shushaieb, and a
Shushaieb | | |large burying ground on left,
| | |called “Balad Ali Gabret,” and
Khor Ali | 4 | 218 |enters shortly after khor of that
Gabret | | |name, running south and west, with
| | |six wells of good water, 4 feet
| | |below surface. Plenty of shade.
| | |Jebel Sabderat is seen on left
| | |front.
| | |
| | |Track now leaves khor and runs
| | |south-west over grassy park-like
| | |plain, covered with bush, &c. Bad
| | |going in places. Seven miles on
| | |sighted Jebel Mokram and, passing
Kassala | 18 | 236 |it on our left, reached Kassala, 3
| | |miles further on.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
10.—KASSALA TO MAMAN DIRECT.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT, APRIL, 1900.
[Sidenote: General Remarks.]
The most direct road to Maman is the old telegraph route which leaves
Kassala in N.N.E. direction past the north end of J. Mokram, and
after following the new telegraph line for about 10 miles then turns
nearly due north and leaves the new telegraph to the east. Country:
good going, covered with scattered bush, but thicker along khors, some
of which are more or less serious obstacles in the rains. Though water
is not plentiful along this route it was sufficient in April, 1900,
to enable a party of 50 Camel Corps, 2 horses, 50 natives on foot,
and 2,000 head of cattle and sheep to reach the wells at Tukruf,
near Kassala, without any special arrangements for water.
Maman is on the direct road to Suakin: for portion of route to Suakin
N. of Maman, _vide_ Route 8.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Kassala | — | — |
| | |
_Khor Girger | 19 | 19 |Bir Galgal in Khor Girger; very
(Wells)_ | | |little water in April, 1900.
| | |
| | |From here the track continues
| | |N.N.E. by N., passing about midway
| | |between Jebels Roreb and Shushaieb
| | |to the northern extremity of the
| | |latter, where there are several
| | |wells in the khor called
_Tendelai-i ( | 12 | 31 |Tendelai-i. These wells had also
Wells)_ | | |very little water. From here the
| | |track continues in the same
| | |direction, good going, country
| | |open and grassy, scattered bush
| | |except along khors, several of
_Khor Telkuk_,| 20 | 51 | which are crossed, to Khor Telkuk,
or El Ku, or | | |before reaching which Jebel
Obillit | | |Obillit is passed about 2 miles to
| | |the west. There was said to be a
| | |well in the khor somewhere near
| | |this jebel. From here to Maman,
| | |country very open; good hard going
| | |and short grass. Three more khors
| | |are crossed, chief of which is
| 9 | 60 |Togan.
| | |
_Maman_ | 5 | 65 |The wells in K. Maman. Many
| | |Gemilab Hadendoas here.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
11.—ADARAMA TO BIR OSHI (KHOR LANGEB).
BY CAPTAIN KENRICK, 11TH HUSSARS, SEPTEMBER, 1901.
N.B.—The localities of wells and water in the country described
in both the following Route Reports depend largely on the season and
the year, and to a great extent on local rain storms. Much reliance
cannot therefore be placed on previous reports.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Adarama | — | — |After leaving Adarama the road
| | |goes E. for about 6 miles over
| | |sandy soil covered with tufts of
| | |dry tabas grass. Jebel Asoteribab
| | |is visible to the S.E. Khor Amab
| | |is then crossed; this is always
| | |dry, I was told; it comes from
| | |S.E., and runs a little way
| | |further to the N. Osman Digna is
| | |said to have had his extreme E.
| | |outpost of 20 men here to levy
| | |blackmail on anyone coming to
| | |Berber. There are acacia bushes in
| | |this khor. Two miles after
| | |crossing the khor, the range Jebel
Jebel Tobrar | 2 | 8 |Tobrar comes into view. All bushes
| | |cease here, and for 4 or 5 miles
| | |the way is over an undulating
| | |sandy country with tufts of
| | |withered grass. On descending a
Khor Shedieb | 5 | 13 |low sandy hill, Khor Shedieb is
| | |met running S.W. and draining a
| | |black, light sandy plain running
| | |E. and W., along which the way
| | |proceeds for 6 miles; low sand
| | |hills to the S. The plain is
| | |treeless, except a few stunted
| | |bushes in Khor Shedieb. After
| | |marching E. over this plain the
| | |sand hills begin to close in at a
El Yukreik | 7 | 20 |place called El Yukreik, where
| | |there is a little shade from a few
| | |small tundub bushes; this is said
| | |to be full of water and green
| | |grass in a rainy year, but it is
| | |quite dry now; this is about 20
| | |miles distant from Adarama. The
| | |direction is then eastwards
| | |through a succession of valleys
| | |shut in by low sand hills running
| | |N. and S. about 3 miles by 3
| | |miles. One valley, just before
| | |entering the Hegerib Plain in
_Bir Kerikun_ | 15 | 35 |which Bir Kerikun lies, is full of
| | |bushes and is cotton soil, but not
| | |bad going; there must be a good
| | |deal of water all over this
| | |country in a good year, but it is
| | |quite dry now. There is no grass
| | |for horses the whole way; the
| | |going is good, but a little heavy
| | |over the sand hills from one
| | |valley to another, and also,
| | |except just when entering Wadi
| | |Hegerib, 3 miles before reaching
| | |Bir Kerikun.
| | |
| ¾ | 35¾ |On leaving Bir Kerikun, march N.
| | |about ¾ mile to get over the low
| | |sand hills, the way then goes E.
| | |and slightly N. The road winds a
| | |little when passing over the sand
| | |hills to get out of the valleys,
| | |which are exactly similar to those
| | |about 12 miles before Kerikun,
| | |except that there are more selem
| | |or samr bushes in them, which give
| | |a fair amount of shade. Just
| | |before entering Wadi Todabanob
| | |there is a valley which the Arabs
| | |told me is capital grazing in a
| | |good year.
| | |
Khor Shanfaiet| — | — |Khor Shanfaiet comes in at the
| | |S.W. corner of this valley. Large
| | |graveyard of Shebodinab Arabs
| | |here. Going good; sand a little
| | |heavy across the sand hills. No
| | |grass fit for horses. On entering
_Todabanob_ | 13¼ | 49 |Wadi Todabanob the wells lie at
| | |the foot of a sand hill. They are
| | |about 8 in number (though there
| | |are others quite filled up in
| | |other parts of the valley); three
| | |only of these are open, and two of
| | |these only had water in them; they
| | |are unlined. They were:—
| | |
| | |Depth to water 14 feet.
| | |
| | |Depth of water 2½ feet (approx.).
| | |
| | |Circumference 3¼ feet.
| | |
| | |I got about 3 camel fantasses full
| | |out of them. I have now learnt
| | |from three sources that it was, as
| | |I suspected at the time, only rain
| | |water from the shower two nights
| | |before. They are now almost dry.
| | |Excellent shade in Todabanob from
| | |large sayal trees; no grass; must
| | |be swamp in a wet year. No Arabs
| | |at all on the route. Wadi
| | |Todabanob runs N. and S. Khor
| | |Derudeb comes in at S. E. (about).
| | |
J. Sanai | — | — |After passing eastwards over the
| | |sand hills leading out of Wadi
| | |Todabanob, J. Sanai comes into
J. Ararab | — | — |view in the E., and J. Ararab to
| | |S.E.; after a switchback course of
| | |about 2½ miles over the sand hills
Wadi Shakauni | 2½ | 51½ |the road drops into Wadi Shakauni,
| | |half of which is covered with
| | |withered Tabas grass, and a little
| | |green grass, tundub bushes, and
| | |Senna, the remaining half barren
| | |sand; this is crossed after
| | |marching 3 miles. On ascending a
| | |slight ridge the sand hills are
| | |left, and Khor Derudeb comes into
| | |sight about 6 miles off, running
| | |in a half-circle from N.E. to S.W.
J. Tebilol | — | — |J. Tebilol, in the E., is also
| | |sighted. The ground just before
Khor Derudeb | — | — |coming to Khor Derudeb, as in the
| | |low-lying parts of all these
| | |khors, is cotton soil, but the
| | |going is not bad. About 12 miles
| | |from Bir Todabanob, Khor Derudeb
| | |is crossed at a point called El
_El Garud_ | 9½ | 61 |Garud, where there are rain pits;
| | |these cannot be relied on for
| | |water. The way now goes eastwards
| | |for about 11 miles over a stony
| | |plain, but good going on tracks,
J. Tebilol | — | — |past J. Tebilol and Khor El Ashob.
| | |There was very little water when I
_Khor El | 10½ | 71½ |came here, but a violent storm
Ashob_ | | |came on in the night and brought
| | |down the khor; after such a storm
| | |there is plenty of water,
| | |sufficient, I think, to last for
| | |four or five months. There was one
| | |large pool of water, 40 yards
| | |long, 8 yards broad, and 10 feet
| | |deep. Plenty of shade near the
| | |khor, and good grass on the banks.
| | |The plain just before Khor El
| | |Ashob is treeless; the going the
| | |whole way is good.
| | |
Jebel | — | — |The road goes eastwards through
Wararaweb | | |the pass of J. Wararaweb, but
| | |there are several miles (3) of
| | |cotton soil to pass first. The
| | |pass itself is very stony, broken
| | |ground and bad going for about 3
Khor Hambokeb | | |of 4 more miles. Then S.E. over a
| | |very stony plain for 10 miles to
Khor Godamaieb| — | — |Khor Godamaieb; this plain is
| | |crossed by small khor, near which
| | |and in which there is always a
| | |little green grass and some shade.
| | |Khor Godamaieb was dry. The well
_Tisharam_ | 38½ | 110 |Tisharam is on the west bank, and
| | |is a very good one, though
| | |unlined; its dimensions were:—
| | |
| | | Depth to water 9 feet.
| | |
| | | Depth of water (good) 5 feet.
| | |
| | | Circumference 7 feet.
| | |
| | |I was told Osman Digna usually
| | |went _viâ_ Khor El Ashob, Bir
| | |Delai and Khor Delai to Khor Araf.
| | |Plenty of dom palms on each bank,
| | |some coarse green grass; remains
| | |of a very large old well filled
| | |up.
| | |
| | |Cross Khor Godamaieb, about 50
| | |yards wide, march N.E. over a road
| | |for the most part stony, except 2½
| | |miles from Khor Godamaieb, where
Khor Angwatiri| 2½ | 112½ |Khor Angwatiri is crossed; there
| | |is green grass in plenty, and some
| | |shade from thorn bushes. It was
| | |full of Gemilab Arabs and their
| | |flocks, who water away to the E.
_Khor Amboreb_| 7½ | 120 |in Khor Amboreb, where there are
| | |some pools of water. After 5 miles
| | |further you enter the hills, and
| | |there are 4 miles of very bad
| | |stony going in and out of small
| | |khors in the midst of stony
| | |mountains till you descend into
Khor Barshoi | 4 | 124 |Khor Barshoi, about 1 mile long,
| | |with dom palms on both banks; then
| | |Khor Araf comes in from the N.W.,
| | |and the way to Khor Langeb is up
| | |this khor, averaging 30 or 40
| | |yards in width, thick dom trees on
| | |either bank, coarse green grass in
| | |places, but not in any great
| | |quantity. The mountains all
| | |through run down to the dom palms
_Khor Araf_ | 6 | 130 |on the banks of the Khor Araf on
| | |each side; away in the distance
| | |are some very high stony peaks. A
| | |very few Gemilab were in the khor.
| | |The going on the whole is very
| | |good in the khor, except in a few
| | |places where the sand is heavy.
| | |About 5 miles from junction of
| | |Khor Araf with Khor Barshoi was a
| | |pool of rain water near the left
| | |bank, about 15 yards long, 4 yards
| | |broad, and 2 feet deep. The pool
_El Getite_ | 11 | 141 |to be relied on is El Getite, on
| | |left bank of Khor Araf, about 16
| | |miles from junction of Khor Araf
| | |and Khor Barshoi, and 31 from Bir
| | |Tisharam; it is rainwater and will
| | |last 4 months. It is close up to
| | |the rock where the hills run down
| | |into the khor. It is 209 yards
| | |long, 10 yards broad, and 10 or 12
| | |feet deep. Muddy water, but quite
| | |wholesome.
| | |
_Umna Dunyin_ | 10 | 151 |The road then goes on down Khor
| | |Araf with many twists and turns
| | |till the pool of rain-water called
| | |_Umna Dunyin_ is reached, about 10
| | |miles from El Getite, but 15 yards
| | |long and about 6 yards broad, 4 or
| | |5 feet deep in the centre, will
| | |probably last 2 months more. After
| | |2½ miles from Umna Dunyin, J.
| | |Hambolib is in sight, round which
| | |the khor twists for about 3 miles,
J. Hambolib | 2½ | 153½ |till the _wells_ called _J.
| | |Hambolieb_ are passed. They are
| | |filled up with sand, and only a
| | |person who knew them well would
| | |know they had ever existed.
| | |However, I was told there is water
| | |underneath; if so, a small fatigue
| | |party could clean out the sand in
| | |a few hours. I think Khor Langeb
| | |joins Khor Araf just near here,
| | |running due E. here. Dom palms,
| | |tarfa jungle, and small quantity
| | |of green grass on the banks. Five
| | |miles up this khor, on left bank,
_Bir Oshi_ | 4½ | 158 |is Bir Oshi, at mouth of small
| | |Khor Oshi; the same remarks apply
| | |to Bir Oshi as to Bir Araf. _Bir
| | |Gabati_, slightly further on, I
| | |was told is the same. There is, I
| | |am told, water in _Khor Odi_, and
| | |a big _pool at Areiwat_, and no
| | |lack of water further on. On the
| | |right bank on entering Khor Langeb
| | |are some graves on a hill, said to
| | |be the graves of Roman soldiers;
| | |the Hadendoas are afraid of
| | |opening them, though they think
| | |there is treasure there.
| | |
| | |Bir Oshi is distant about 48 miles
| | |from Bir Tisharam, this is owing
| | |to the twists the khor makes, and
| | |one is not able to leave Khor Araf
| | |often on account of the hills
| | |coming down close to the banks of
| | |the khor and rendering the ground
| | |impassable.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
12.—EL GETITE (IN KHOR ARAF) TO ADARAMA, _viâ_ BIR DELAI AND
TENDERA.
BY CAPTAIN KENRICK, SEPTEMBER, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Getite | — | — |March from El Getite to junction
| | |of Khor Araf with Khor Barshoi
Khor Barshoi | 17 | 17 |(_vide_ previous route report),
| | |then march for 2 miles N.W. up
| | |Khor Araf almost to its source;
| | |the khor narrows here and the path
| | |is a little stony in places, then
| | |turn W. over a stony plain for 2
| | |miles, very fairly good going
Khor El Ashob | 4 | 21 |until the source of Khor El Ashob
| | |is reached. From this place may be
| | |sighted sources of Khor Araf and
| | |Khor Amboreb, which runs away
| | |apparently S.E. There was plenty
| | |of grass and shade here. Leaving
| | |Khor El Ashob, which runs away to
| | |the N.W., afterwards turning S.W.
| | |again to join Khor Derudeb, march
Khor Delai | 7½ | 28½ |S.W. to Khor Delai, 7½ miles
| | |distant; road stony, but good
| | |going on sheep tracks, the stones
| | |are not very thick, nor is it
| | |rocky. Cross several khors _en
Khor Beida | — | — |route_, Khor Beida is one of them;
| | |there is a little grass in all of
| | |these. On reaching Khor Delai,
| | |after going a few yards down the
_Bir Delai_ | — | 28½ |khor the well is reached in the
| | |centre of the khor, recently
| | |cleaned out by the Arabs, but
| | |there are none here now. The well
| | |is lined with wood.
| | |
| | |Depth to water 3½ feet.
| | |
| | |Depth of water 10 „
| | |(very clean)
| | |
| | |Circumference (approx.) 7 „
| | |
| | |Good cattle watering places round
| | |the well. Good shade. Some green
| | |grass in the khor.
| | |
| | |After leaving Bir Delai, first
| | |march 5 miles along right bank of
| | |Khor Delai (looking towards mouth
| 5 | 33½ |of khor), direction W., cross the
| | |khor at the point where it runs
| | |slightly N.W. to join Khor El
| | |Ashob, then 8 miles over stony,
| | |but very level plain, excellent
| | |going in cattle tracks and sheep
_Pool El | 8 | 41½ |tracks S.W. to pool El Ashob in
Ashob_ | | |Khor El Ashob, 40 yards long, 12
| | |feet deep and 8 yards broad. Well
| | |filled up, 3 miles to N.W.; could
| | |be opened if necessary in khor
| | |under dom palm.
| | |
Khor Derudeb | 5 | 46½ |Leave Khor El Ashob, crossing to
| | |right bank (looking towards
| | |mouth), going in a westerly
| | |direction 5 miles to Khor Derudeb,
| | |cross this khor. A little cotton
| | |soil on E. bank of Khor Derudeb,
| | |going otherwise good, over light,
| | |stony, sandy soil, but no shade
| | |except at the khors. Then N.W. 10
Khor Abu | 10 | 56½ |miles further on to Khor Abu
Sillem | | |Sillem, coming from N. of J.
| | |Torbraa range; going good, grass
| | |in Khor Abu Sillem, also shade.
| | |N.W. still 6 miles further to Khor
_Khor Breitak_| 6 | 62½ |Breitak, there I found two pools
| | |of rain-water, muddy, but sweet.
| | |They were in the khor and were
| | |about 40 yards long, 6 yards broad
| | |and 1 foot deep. About 5 miles of
| | |some of the best grazing I have
| | |seen in the country. The Sheikh
| | |said the water had been there 2
| | |months and would only last 9 days
| | |more, another Arab I asked said a
| | |month more. The Sheikh also
| | |pointed out the road to the N. to
_Bir Tendera_ | 13 | 75½ |Bir Tendera; both he and my guides
| | |said half a day’s journey, _i.e._,
| | |13 miles, easy road, and it looked
| | |good what I saw of it. Very good
| | |shade here.
| | |
| | |From Tendera, Adarama is 40 miles
| | |(Arabs 2 days, loaded camels),
| | |road easy (there may be a little
| | |cotton soil), some shade and grass
| | |at Bir Tendera, also some shade at
Sekotieb | 20 | 95½ |Sekotieb (?), 20 miles (about)
| | |from Adarama. The well (Tendera)
| | |itself is large, always has water
| | |in it.
| | |
Adarama | 20 | 115½ |This information, though I have
| | |seen the road as far as Khor
| | |Shedieb and corroborate it so far,
| | |is hearsay, as I had not time to
| | |go there myself. My informants are
| | |my two guides, Sheikh Mohammed Isa
| | |and the Mulazim Awal, of Slavery
| | |Department at Adarama, all of whom
| | |have been there, and many Arabs
| | |_re_ water.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
NOTE.—In the long grass (September) a large number of snakes exactly
similar to the Indian cobra were met. I killed 4 on the march. The
Hadendoa name for them is “kokwa” whilst the Ababda called them
“Dugga.”
13.—UMBREGA (R. SETIT) TO SOFI (R. ATBARA).
BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT.—MARCH, 1900.
N.B.—For description of route further east and notes on this road,
_vide_ Route 125, Appendix.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Umbrega[9] | — | — |From here there is a tolerably
| | |distinct track following the
_Abedo_ | 3¾ | 3¾ |crest-line of the plateau, and the
| | |river is seen and approachable
_Godema_ | ¾ | 4½ |only occasionally, being always 1
| | |to 4 miles on left. The descents
K. Turab Karuf| 1¼ | 5¾ |to Meshras Abedo and Godema are
| | |passed, and then the burial ground
Sheikh Ageil | 4 | 9¾ |and khor of Torab Karuf, further
| | |on the district of Sheikh Ageil
_El Zuhani_ | 1½ | 11¼ |and Meshra El Zuhani. From Sheikh
| | |Ageil J. Esir and Lukdi are both
| | |visible N.N.W. and S.S.W.
| | |respectively, latter being on
| | |boundary of Hamrans towards
| | |Abyssinia.
| | |
Gat Wad El Hag| 6½ | 17¾ |Leaving this, the path passes
| | |clearings of former cultivation,
| | |and after 3 miles of thick bush,
_El Hagar El | 1¾ | 19½ |Gat Wad El Hag. Meshra El Hagar El
Zuruk_ | | |Zuruk is reached, and after
| | |following bed of river for ½ a
_Gira_ | 10½ | 30 |mile, plateau is regained, and
| | |Gira is next Meshra. On left bank
K. Lobetir | 6 | 36 |are cliffs, on which are situated
| | |the ruins of the old Egyptian
_K. Wad | 2 | 38 |Fort. K. Lobetir and K. Wad
Heleiwa_ | | |Heleiwa being crossed, village of
| | |latter name, which is the sole
_Setit_ | 1¼ | 39¼ |existing one of Hamrans at present
| | |time, is reached. From here Setit
_Atbara_ | 7½ | 46¾ |is crossed, and later R. Atbara
| | |and village of Sofi is reached.
| | |
_Sofi_ | ¾ | 47½ |Little game was seen between
| | |Umbrega and Sofi.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
[Footnote 1: Camel transport.]
[Footnote 2: For further details regarding the water supply along
this route _vide_ “Report on the Nile and country between Dongola,
&c.,” 1898.]
[Footnote 3: Meaning “red stone” in Hadendoa.]
[Footnote 4: “Black stone” in Hadendoa.]
[Footnote 5: Fuel should be carried between Ariab and Maho Bey.]
[Footnote 6: From Suakin.]
[Footnote 7: Now many.]
[Footnote 8: If it is not desired to march through Italian territory
from this point, the route mentioned in the previous report may be
taken by marching up Khor Langeb to junction Khor Windi, and thence
up the latter khor for about 20 miles until the eastern road is met.]
[Footnote 9: The Sudan-Eritrea frontier here runs from a point on the
Hafeira-Umbrega road, marked by a blazed heglig tree, straight to the
bend of the Setit immediately opposite the mouth of the Khor Royan,
which enters the Setit on the left bank about 11 miles above Umbrega.]
CHAPTER IV.
(EASTERN SUDAN.)
* * * * *
14.—KHARTOUM NORTH TO KASSALA, _viâ_ GEILI, RERA EL SADDA,
AND EL SOFEIYA, DIMIAT, ASUBRI.
BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT (JANUARY, 1900) WITH ADDITIONS BY
CAPTAINS BOULNOIS (MARCH, 1900) AND MORANT (JANUARY, 1901).
_General Description._
[Sidenote: Road.]
At this season (January) the going is good throughout, except for the
few miles between Um Ukheita and Um Rueishid and the first 5 miles out
of Rera eastwards, which portions of the track are very stony. From El
Sadda to Asubri there is at present (1900) no track, so the going is
not so good as in other parts, but there is no obstacle to camels. The
gradients throughout are insignificant. A great portion of the route
is over dark arable soil, which must be impassable when wet, so that
in autumn this route must be difficult for camels for at any rate a
day after heavy rain.
There is plenty of shade up to El Ereigib; after that it is rarely
found and is non-existent for considerable stretches.
[Sidenote: Rivers.]
The Atbara bed lies from 100-200 feet below the level of the
surrounding plains. On either side it is bordered by 2 to 4 miles of
broken ground covered with scattered bush, through which the track
proceeds by easy gradients. As a rule it is unfordable at Asubri
from end of June to middle of October. During these months travellers
cross by the boat ferry at Suweihil some 5 miles further south.
The Gash is liable to be unfordable for several days together during
the flood season which lasts during July, August and September.
[Sidenote: Supplies.]
A good deal of dura is grown near the track and some might be
obtainable at the right time of year. Sheep and milk can be got at
many places. Firewood is to be found everywhere up to El Giseima
(66 miles), after that it is very scarce till the Atbara is reached.
[Sidenote: Water.]
As tanks are very numerous, water must be very plentiful in autumn
and early winter.
The wells about El Ereigib are very deep; that at Wad Abu Saleh was
found to be roughly 250 feet.
There are still many wells that require digging out and tanks that
want repair. Water was of good quality throughout, and all the wells
visited had an ample supply.
[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]
The village of Um Dibban and all the country as far as Wad Abu Saleh
used to be under El Taib Abd El Salem, the Sheikh of El Soba. Owing
to their having joined the Mahdi, the Sheikh of El Obeid family have
risen in importance and acquired a certain jurisdiction over the
country east of Um Dibban.
A few Batahin were met with as far as El Giseima, after that
practically all were Shukria or those living with that tribe, as far
as the left bank of the Atbara.
[Sidenote: Grazing.]
There is excellent tree grazing as far as El Giseima, and after
that the supply of grass is so great that one can understand how the
enormous flocks and herds subsisted, that the Shukria claim to have
possessed in their palmy days.
The grass seen was never more than 3 feet high. It is not burnt.
[Sidenote: Cultivation.]
An immense area is capable of growing good crops of dura if the rains
are favourable.
[Sidenote: Game.]
There is practically nothing to shoot at this season (January)
between the Blue Nile and a few miles of the Atbara.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Khartoum North| — | — |Starting E. from the Artillery
| | |Lines at Khartoum N., a well
| | |marked track is soon struck, which
| | |continues up the Blue Nile cutting
| | |off corners where it bends. It
| | |passes the village of Kuku (whence
| | |a track leads to Sheikh El Amin
| | |and afterwards rejoins this
| | |route), the two villages of
| | |Gereif, where there is some
| | |cultivation, and at about 12 miles
| | |the village of Um Dom. At about 19
| | |miles, after passing some low
| | |mounds covered with frequent
| | |fragments of stone and brick, said
_Old Soba_ | 19 | 19 |to be the remains of Old Soba, the
| | |road bifurcates and the branch to
| | |the left is taken, a clearly
| | |marked track. For the first few
| | |miles the path passes through
| | |thinly scattered trees, which
| | |gradually get thicker, till at 23
| | |miles they restrict the view in
| | |any direction to 200 or 300 yards.
| | |At 25½ miles a well is passed on
| | |the right of the road, and at 27
_Um Dibban_ | 8 | 27 |miles Um Dibban is reached. This
| | |is a scattered but well-built mud
| | |village on perfectly flat ground,
| | |from which all vegetation has been
| | |removed for a radius of 1,000 to
| | |1,500 yards.
| | |
| | |It was formed by a holy man named
| | |Sheikh El Obeid, who established a
| | |school and caused a tank to be
| | |dug. His descendants still live
| | |there and keep up the school, but
| | |they now have hankerings after
| | |temporal power.
| | |
| | |The Sheikh El Obeid family and
| | |followers were early and fanatical
| | |adherents of the Mahdi, and it was
| | |in attempting to surprise them
| | |that Mohammed Ali Pasha and his
| | |forces were cut to pieces in 1884.
| | |
| | |There are two wells about 112 feet
| | |deep, one inside, and the other
| | |200 yards W. of the S.W. corner of
| | |village.
| | |
| | |The inhabitants belong to various
| | |tribes; many have land on the Blue
| | |Nile, and some cultivate land to
| | |the E.
| | |
| | |The road starts slightly N. of E.,
| | |and generally traverses a thin
| | |forest of thorny trees, not thick
| | |enough really to impede troops,
| | |but necessitating a little dodging
| | |here and there. At 4¼ miles it
_Wad Badrub_ | 4¼ | 31¼ |passes Wad Badrub, a well, said to
(Wad Agid) | | |be 140 feet deep, belonging to Um
| | |Dibban. About 200 yards further
| | |on, and again after 4 more miles,
| | |dry tanks were passed.
| | |
| | |The track maintains a general
| | |direction of a little N. of E.,
| | |but constantly makes considerable
| | |changes for short distances.
| | |
_Wad Hedeibab_| 7¾ | 39 |Well.
| | |
_Um Sideira_ | 7 | 46 |Well.
| | |
| 4 | 50 |A dry tank in the Elwan district
| | |is passed. There is said to be a
| | |well of the same name 2 miles to
| | |the S.E. This district originally
| | |belonged to the Shukria, but is
| | |now occupied by the Batahin.
| | |
| | |The country soon becomes more open
| | |and a considerable extent, perhaps
| | |600 or more feddans of dura,
| | |cultivated by the Batahin was
| | |passed.
| | |
_El Ereigib_ | 5 | 55 |There are some wells (which were
| | |out of repair; January 1901) and
| | |several dry tanks, and one with
| | |water about 1 mile N.E. Plenty of
| | |fair sized trees.
| | |
| | |A small number of Mesellemia
| | |Arabs, Sheikh Mahi, were there.
| | |They were originally under the
| | |Shukria, but during the Mahdia
| | |came under Sheikh El Obeid.
| | |
| | |Another rather shorter route is
| | |from Khartoum N. to El Ereigib,
| | |viâ Babekr (11½ miles), good well,
| | |thence passing two lots of salt
| | |works to the village of _El
| | |Melaha_ (13 miles), large tank,
| | |plenty of water (January, 1901),
| | |thence to a second village of _El
| | |Melaha_ (2½ miles), salt well,
| | |thence to a deep but good _well at
| | |Elwan_ (22½ miles), and total
| | |distance to El Ereigib (4 miles)
| | |is 53½ miles.
| | |
| | |The country soon becomes more
| | |open, several tanks are passed. At
| | |3 miles Wad Abu Saleh, good well
| | |250 feet deep, marked by some
| | |small but well built mud houses in
| | |good preservation, said to belong
| | |to the Sheikh of El Soba. About ¾
| | |mile to the left is a tank, said
| | |to hold the largest supply of
| | |water in the neighbourhood. The
| | |country now becomes more and more
| | |bare of trees, and more ground fit
| | |for cultivation is seen. At 6½
| | |miles some Batahin crops are
Wadi Sereria | 6½ | 6½ |passed, and the Wadi Sereria
| | |flowing S. is crossed. A well
| | |belonging to the Mesellemia is
| | |said to be close at hand on left.
| | |At 8 miles a track from Shendi viâ
| | |Wad Hassuna to Rufaa is crossed.
| | |No water along it except tanks.
| | |
_El | 4½ | 66 |A tank about 100 feet in diameter
Giseima_[10] | | |on rather high ground surrounded
| | |by a few trees, 2 feet of water in
| | |it, Hamla 4½ hours. From this on,
| | |no trees are seen till Rera is
| | |reached, except where belts of
| | |“kittr” bushes mark the lines of
| | |Wadis or a small clump of thorn
| | |trees shows the position of a
| | |tank; firewood should be provided
| | |for.
| | |
| | |The absence of trees enables one
| | |to see far over the wide plains,
| | |mostly of arable soil and covered
| | |at this season with dry “Mahareib”
| | |and “Hamra” grass. At 4 miles, an
| | |unusually pronounced drainage line
| | |said to come from Abu Deleig is
| | |crossed. The upper part is called
Wadi Abu Sueid| 4 | 70 |Wadi Abu Sueid and the lower Wadi
| | |Hasit, said to be much cultivation
| | |along it, but none was seen.
| | |Thence across a gravelly plateau
| | |from which 4 miles further on
| | |Geili hill can be seen. At 76th
| | |mile road descends short slope to
Astaneit | 6 | 76 |Astaneit tank, dry, no wood,
| | |water, nor good grazing.
| | |
| | |From here on to Geili, the road
| | |generally makes for the hill. The
| | |main track probably avoids
| | |Astaneit tank, leaving it to the
| | |right. At 80th mile the Khor
Khor Dengalia | 4 | 80 |Dengalia; at 84th mile the Wadi
| | |Nail, and half mile further on the
Wadi Nail | 4 | 84 |Wadi Ankia are crossed, all
| | |flowing south. 5½ miles further on
Wadi Ankia | ½ | 84½ |the N. end of the Geili hill was
| | |reached. The best place to halt is
_Geili_ | 6 | 90½ |½ mile further on at the S.E. end,
| | |where a huge fallen boulder
| | |affords good shade for two or
| | |three persons. It has an ancient
| | |carving in Egyptian style on the
| | |side nearest the hill.
| | |
| | |J. Geili is a granite outcrop
| | |about 250 feet high, rising out of
| | |a gentle elevation in the plain.
| | |On E. and S. are some low knolls
| | |enclosing a small open space, in
| | |which the wells now most used are
| | |situated. There are said to be
| | |about thirty wells round the hill,
| | |varying in depth from 50 to 100
| | |feet, yielding an unfailing supply
| | |of water; some grass near but no
| | |firewood. The only path up the
| | |hill is from the N., and even
| | |there nailed boots must be taken
| | |off.
| | |
| | |From the summit a good view is
| | |obtained. Near the top on some
| | |level ground is a place shown as
| | |the tomb of the “Bint El Mek,” the
| | |daughter of one of the Fung Kings,
| | |who married Sheikh El Din one of
| | |the early Shukria Sheikhs.
| | |
| | |From Geili there are two roads to
| | |Um Rueishid, one of which viâ J.
| | |El Daein makes a considerable
| | |detour. It starts on a bearing of
| | |about 66° from true N. straight
| | |for J. El Daein, passing over good
| | |soil nearly all the way, several
| | |hundred feddans of which appear to
| | |have been cultivated (1901). The
| | |ground is much cracked and off the
| | |path, the going is bad.
| | |
J. El Daein | 22 | 112½ |Two small hills of which the
| | |southern is the higher. There is a
| | |tank, now dry, at its foot on W.
| | |side, Hamla took 8 hours, going
| | |well.
| | |
Um Ukheita | 14½ | 127 |The track now turns slightly S. of
| | |E. and continues over good soil
| | |rather bare of grass to Um
| | |Ukheita, a tank now dry, on a
| | |slight stony rise. Hamla about 5
| | |hours. From here on to Um Rueishid
| | |the ground is covered with angular
| | |stones, and the going very bad.
| | |Camels have to walk. At 2½ miles
| | |J. Rera is seen to the S.E., and
| | |the track makes fairly straight
| | |for it, leaving on the right the
| | |group of small hills known as El
| | |Nawasla. At 6¼ miles the track
| | |descends a gentle slope, and bends
| | |up to the N. to the well of Um
| | |Rueishid.
| | |
| | |The more direct road, which would
| | |appear to be the best in every
| | |way, runs nearly due E. over a
| | |“Nal” grass covered plain devoid
| | |of bush, therefore also of shade
| | |and firewood, to Sofeiya El Wata
| | |(23 miles) a large tank (dry
| | |January, 1901), where there is
| | |excellent shade for a small party.
| | |From here to Um Rueishid (20
| | |miles), track traverses similar
| | |country, though it is occasionally
| | |stony. J. Um Betikh is passed to
| | |the S. of the track.
| | |
_Um Rueishid_ | 8¼ | 135¼ |This well is said to be 30 or 35
| | |feet deep. It is situated on bare
| | |stony ground. A dry tank lies ½
| | |mile to the S. There are a few
| | |small thorn bushes S. of well, but
| | |there is very little shade and
| | |little grazing, and it is
| | |altogether rather an unpleasant
| | |halting place.
| | |
| | |From Um Rueishid there is a track
| | |viâ El Sofeiya and Dimiat to
| | |Asubri. It seems the most direct
| | |line possible, _vide_ description
| | |below.
| | |
| | |The route followed after about 1
| | |mile of stony plain strikes a well
| | |marked track on good cultivable
| | |soil, and makes straight for J.
| | |Rera.
| | |
| | |At 1½ miles it crosses the Wadi
| | |Jerraba flowing S., and 6 miles W.
| | |Rahad, and at 11 miles the W.
| | |Kanan flowing N. All are flat
| | |depressions with cracked soil and
| | |marked by lines of “kittr” bushes.
| | |Parts of their courses are
| | |cultivated. At 18 miles, track
| | |enters ground strewn with quartz
| | |pebbles, and covered with grass
| | |which continues as far as Rera.
| | |
_Rera_ | 22¼ | 157½ |Hamla 9½ hours. The Rera hills
| | |consist of three rocky ridges
| | |almost in line, running E. and W.
| | |and some low subsidiary elevation;
| | |S. of the centre ridge is a well
| | |and a dry water hole. Immediately
| | |to the S. of the W. end of the
| | |eastern and highest ridge are more
| | |wells now in use. On the N. side
| | |of the short and low pass that
| | |leads to these wells from the N.
| | |is a deep dry tank. Before the
| | |Mahdia immense flocks and herds
| | |used to water here. In the eastern
| | |and highest ridge are several rock
| | |tanks containing water.
| | |
| | |From Rera a road goes viâ Dimiat
| | |to Asubri. It is more direct and
| | |better marked than the one
| | |followed, but was not taken as the
| | |rock tanks at Dimiat were said to
| | |be dry (January, 1900). The
| | |eastern ridge is not difficult to
| | |ascend and commands a good view.
| | |The natives say J. Kassala can be
| | |seen from it on a fine day during
| | |the rains. Variation of prismatic
| | |compass about 3½° W.
| | |
| | |There is no marked track for the
| | |first 5 miles towards El Sadda,
| | |and the going is bad over pebbles
| | |and through long grass.
| | |
| | |After that a well marked track is
| | |reached, which continues the rest
| | |of the way.
| | |
Wadi Atiam | 7 | 154½ |At 7 miles, the Wadi Atiam is
| | |passed flowing N. It goes to El
| | |Sofeiya, and as far again beyond
| | |it dies away. Much cultivation
| | |along it. From 7 to 9½ miles the
| | |road is rather bad and stony till
| | |it has passed the Atash hills by a
| | |short and easy gap, and enters an
| | |open plain which extends to El
| | |Sadda.
| | |
| | |Several tanks are passed on the
| | |right, known as El Farsh. Hamla 9½
| | |hours.
| | |
_El Sadda_ | 25½ | 180 |There are several wells here about
| | |½ mile W. of S. end of J. El
| | |Sadda, a low ridge running N. and
| | |S. The one well visited was said
| | |to be 70 to 80 feet deep. Plenty
| | |of grass, but no trees nor
| | |firewood. On the N. and W. of the
| | |hill and close to its foot are a
| | |number of circular stone mounds
| | |neatly built, which appear to be
| | |tumuli, and probably date from a
| | |time anterior to the present
| | |inhabitants. The two biggest are
| | |immediately under the highest
| | |point. From here to the Atbara
| | |there is no track and no water.
| | |Bushes mark the drainage lines,
| | |otherwise the plains are bare of
| | |all but grass. Much of the ground
| | |is cracked and consequently bad
| | |going. The route followed
| | |eventually struck the well marked
| | |track made by the Dervishes from
| | |Dimiat, and kept along it to
| | |Asubri. At 2½ miles from Asubri
| | |the main road along the left bank
| | |of the Atbara is crossed. Soon
| | |after, the track descends into the
| | |broken ground which fringes both
| | |banks of the Atbara to a width of
| | |2 or more miles. The actual banks
| | |at Asubri are 15 to 20 feet high
| | |and 300 yards apart. Crocodiles
| | |are plentiful. The ford in
| | |January, 1901 was 120 yards long
| | |and 2½ feet deep.
| | |
_Asubri_ (R. | 57 | 237 |Hamla took 19 hours from El Sadda.
Atbara) | | |A nice shady camp on right bank
| | |for a very small party. Mosquitos
| | |few, but particularly poisonous.
| | |
| | |Asubri is the name of a strip of
| | |land extending for some miles
| | |along both banks of the Atbara. On
| | |the left bank, near the ford, is
| | |an old cemetery, and ½ mile S. is
| | |a building formerly occupied by
| | |Abdel Rahim Wad Abu Dugal, the
| | |Dervish Emir in command of their
| | |post here in 1897 and early in
| | |1898.
| | |
| | |On leaving camp, the track winds
| | |in and out of khors and up gentle
| | |slopes through bushes, till at 2
| | |or 3 miles it emerges on to the
| | |plain, which is of good soil
| | |covered with scattered bush. The
| | |general direction is straight for
| | |J. Kassala.
| | |
| | |At about 6 miles the track from
| | |Suweihil joins in on the right,
| | |and from this on, the road is well
| | |marked. Many ariel and gazelle,
| | |and a few ostriches seen.
| | |
Um Siteiba | 21 | 258 |At 21 miles, Um Siteiba, commonly
| | |called half way is passed. Here is
| | |a large natural pond for about 4
| | |months in the rains, but now dry.
| | |Serut fly bad when there is water
| | |here.
| | |
| | |About 6 miles from Kassala, the
| | |track turns N.E. and traverses
| | |more thickly wooded country, till
| | |it reaches the bed of the Gash,
| | |now dry, some 700 yards wide,
| | |immediately beyond which lies the
| | |old town of Kassala.
| | |
Kassala | 17 | 275 |The old name, Taka, may now be
| | |regarded as obsolete. The former
| | |town is a complete ruin, of which
| | |nothing remains except the
| | |circular bastions. The new town
| | |has been built close by the S.E.
| | |and consists largely of Tukls. The
| | |Fort, built by the Italians, is
| | |just E. of the N. end of the old
| | |town.
| | |
| | |Telegraph lines from Suakin,
| | |Massawa, and Khartoum viâ Gedaref
| | |meet here.
UM RUEISHID _viâ_ SOFEIYA TO ASUBRI.
Khartoum, N. | — | — |
| | |
Um Rueishid | — | 135¼ |From Um Rueishid where the ground
| | |is very stony, the track which is
| | |well defined, starts at a bearing
| | |of 112° from true N., and very
| | |soon K. Abu Jerraba is crossed
| | |flowing N., it is said to
| | |eventually unite with the Wadi
| | |Khasa.
| | |
Wadi Khasa | 7½ | 142¾ |There are signs of a good deal of
| | |cultivation along this wadi.
| | |
J. Um El Gurud| 1½ | 144¼ |J. Um El Gurud, a low rocky hill
| | |about ¼ mile long is passed about
| | |1¾ miles to S. and 3 miles further
| | |on Sheikh
| | |
Sh. Naim’s | 1½ | 145¾ |Naim’s tomb, conspicuous on top of
Tomb | | |a gentle slope, is passed on N.
| | |side of the road. Open bushless
| | |grass country continued until
El Sofeiya | 9½ | 155¼ |nearing El Sofeiya, where
| | |scattered bush and granite rocks
| | |appear. There are some forty wells
| | |here, though water supply
| | |decreases considerably in the dry
| | |season, they vary from 50 to 100
| | |feet in depth.
| | |
| | |The people here, who are Shukria
| | |under Sh. Ahmed Mohamed Abu Sin,
| | |live in tents made of matting;
| | |there are no permanent buildings
| | |of any sort, and the encampments
| | |are small and scattered. The
| | |direct road to Kassala, which is
| | |difficult to trace for the first
| | |mile or so after leaving the
| | |wells, soon becomes well defined,
| | |having been much used during the
| | |Mahdia, and leads over open flat
| | |grassy land from J. Gurun, which
| | |it leaves about 2½ miles to the S.
| | |Khors Royan (7 miles) and Atshan
| | |(11½ miles) being crossed en
| 15½ | 170¾ |route, flowing N.
| | |
Wadi Giref | 6½ | 177¼ |J. Giref is passed about 3 miles
| | |N. of track and Wadi Giref is
| | |crossed about a mile further on.
| | |
| | |From here to J. Dimiat is about 15
| | |miles, Wadi Girgoja being crossed
| | |at about half way.
| | |
_J. Dimiat_ | 15 | 192¼ |A granite hill about 100 feet
| | |high. There is a natural tank
| | |about half way up, inaccessible
| | |for camels, which after a good
| | |rainy season contains water till
| | |the end of January, but is not to
| | |be relied on. There is a certain
| | |amount of laot bush around the
| | |base of the Jebel, which serves as
| | |firewood, and some detached
| | |boulders give shade for a small
| | |party.
| | |
| | |From here to the Atbara valley
| | |about 33 miles there is no bush,
| | |with the exception of two thin
| | |belts called Ogba El Bagar about 5
Ogba El Bagar | 18 | 210¼ |miles apart.
| | |
| 7½ | 217¾ |The road bifurcates, one to
| | |Gandaua, Sh. Omara Abu Sin’s
| | |village on the Atbara, the other
| | |is the Dervish track to Asubri.
| | |The route taken (January, 1901)
| | |was neither, but direction lay for
| | |3 miles S.E., and then due E.
| | |through scattered bush to edge of
| | |plateau.
| | |
Edge of | 8½ | 226¼ |From this point Jebels Kassala,
Plateau | | |Abu Gamel, &c., are plainly
| | |visible. Also are several small
| | |hills some 10 miles to the S. and
| | |S.W. named Bereirob and El Gatar,
| | |whilst J. Leinun is visible a
| | |similar distance to the N.
| | |
| | |The road now descends a khor by
| | |easy gradients to the bed of the
| | |Atbara at the well known Meshra of
_Asubri_ | 2¼ | 228½ |Asubri.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
15.—GOZ REGEB TO SHENDI _viâ_ ABU DELEIG.
BY CAPTAIN W. A. BOULNOIS, APRIL, 1900.
[Sidenote: General Remarks. Road.]
From Goz Regeb, a ruined town of mud houses almost entirely deserted to
Sheg el Walia, there is no track, and the country is bare till within
30 miles of Sheg. Hence to Geleita there is a badly defined track and
none from Geleita to Abu Deleig. From the latter to Shendi the track
is well defined most of the way, and there seems to be a considerable
amount of traffic; parties bringing dura from Rufaa to Shendi, and one
party from Metemma with goods to sell in Abu Deleig market were met.
The track disappears 10 miles short of Shendi.
The going is good at this time of year all the way; wherever tracts
of strong rich soil and wadis are crossed, and there are many, it
would be impracticable in the wet season at times.
From Abu Deleig to Shendi the going is good enough, probably all the
year round, but many deepish khors would form serious obstacles in
the rains.
The Atbara was 2½ feet deep, and 60 yards wide.
[Sidenote: Supplies.]
A fair amount of dura is grown near Sheg and Geleita. It was easily
obtainable there in small quantities.
A great deal is grown in Hawad, a very fertile district, and also
a certain amount in Abu Deleig in good years, but it all depends on
the rainfall. Very little from Abu Deleig to Shendi.
[Sidenote: Wood.]
Firewood is not to be obtained between Goz Regeb and within 10 miles
of Abu Deleig; plenty elsewhere.
[Sidenote: Water.]
None from Goz Regeb to Sheg, about 65 miles.
Tanks very numerous near and in Hawad.
Water only obtainable at Ladda, between Abu Deleig and Shendi; but
there are numerous tanks, though all dry at this time.
Water is of good quality, especially at Abu Deleig.
[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]
From Goz Regeb to Hawad, Shukria; round Abu Deleig, Batahin; at Ladda,
Ababda and Hassania.
[Sidenote: Grazing.]
Very good grazing from Sheg to Shendi.
[Sidenote: Cultivation.]
Large tracts and areas capable of growing good crops of dura if
rains favourable.
[Sidenote: Game.]
Nothing to shoot between Atbara and the Nile at this time of the year.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Atbara | — | — |Descending the bank by the hut on
| | |the E. bank the Atbara is crossed
| | |and the W. bank ascended ¼ mile S.
| | |
| | |Elsewhere the banks are steep, but
| | |the bush is not very dense. Track
| | |leads to Goz Regeb. The ruined
| | |brick buildings of the old
| | |Egyptian town are still standing,
| | |and amongst them the decayed tukls
| | |of Osman Digna. A very few
| | |inhabitants, descendants of the
| | |ancient town of Goz are living
| | |there still. The site is on high
| | |ground, and light sandy soil, a
| | |few dom palms, and the remains of
| | |an old garden and cemetery are
| | |still visible.
| | |
Goz Regeb | 1 | 1 |Counting from huts on the E. bank,
| | |the distance to the town is 1
| | |mile. The direction taken, about
| | |260° from the true north, leaves
| | |the town of Goz Regeb on the N.,
| | |and passes from sandy undulating
| | |ground to level rich soil with
| | |very little grass and trees,
| | |getting scarcer through El Uera
| | |district, leaving the two hills of
| | |El Darei on the north side; at
| | |about 9 miles the direction taken
| | |leads straight to Bewadda. Under
| | |the hills of El Darei are bushes
Bewadda | 15½ | 16½ |and grass.
| | |
| | |Bearing from Bewadda to Sabaat
| | |162°, Erembat 81°, Takallaareid
| | |343°. Bewadda is a granite rock in
| | |the middle of a bare tract.
| | |
| | |At 20 miles a ridge about ¼ mile
| | |long, quite low, stands 1 mile to
| | |the N.; hence the ground is
| | |perfectly bare till about 50
| | |miles. Wadis coming from south
| | |begin to empty on the plain, then
| | |the going becomes bad in places,
| | |especially in the cracked soil
| | |near the Wadis. Grass gets more
| | |plentiful.
| | |
| | |At 51 miles Wadi Royan is crossed,
| | |and shortly after Wadi El Doleb
| | |and Wadi Sangareh; dura is grown
| | |about these wadis.
| | |
J. Ikhbeit | 36 | 52½ |Bearing to J. Ikhbeit 209°.
| | |
| | |The broad Wadi El Abil is crossed
| | |at 59 miles; there are bushes and
| | |firewood in it. Four miles further
| | |on the ground becomes stony after
| | |crossing Wadi Wad Masuga, and
| | |rises gentle slope of stony ridge.
| | |
_Shag El | 13½ | 66 |Shag El Walia is reached after
Walia_ | | |crossing a second ridge. It is
| | |generally called simply Shag, no
| | |connection with Sheikh. Four wells
| | |in use out of 14; 120 feet deep,
| | |water constant; 200 camels could
| | |be watered daily. A badly defined
| | |track leads over a valley with
| | |rich soil across Wadi Baseyayi,
| | |then gently up another stony ridge
_Geleita_ | 14½ | 80½ |and plateau down to Geleita where
| | |are 7 wells in use altogether,
| | |about 120 feet deep, water
| | |constant. There are several wells
| | |unopened. A good many flocks and
| | |inhabitants.
| | |
| | |Leaving the main group of wells, a
| | |track is followed down bed of khor
| | |to the foot of the ridge in N.W.
| | |direction, fairly free from
| | |stones, past two wells at ¾ mile,
| | |and one well at 1¼ miles. The
| | |track disappears and rich soil and
_Isna Bir_ | 17½ | 98 |pasture land is crossed to Isna
| | |Bir, where there are 2 wells
| | |giving a scanty supply of water,
| | |and a few people (Batahin); a few
| | |patches of corn were noticed on
| | |the way.
| | |
| | |Hence the direction taken is
| | |nearly W., crossing a very fertile
| | |tract of country; many water
| | |tanks, now dry, then over the rich
| | |land of Hawad, and rising a gentle
| | |slope touches the Khor Girgegi,
| | |which waters the Hawad, about 1
_Abu Deleig_ | 25 | 123 |mile short of Abu Deleig.
| | |
| | |Good shade all round. Large number
| | |of wells.
| | |
| 2 | 125 |The best place for a small party
| | |is 2 miles higher up the Girgegi.
| | |A well defined track, starting
| | |N.W. across Wadi Shilha and leads
| | |over good pasture land with many
| | |mimosa trees and sandy soil to
_Ladda_ | 20 | 145 |Ladda. A large tank hewn out of
| | |the rock in the middle of a grass
| | |plain. Plenty of water, 1/4/00,
| | |diameter about 100 feet, depth in
| | |middle 5 feet, said to last all
| | |the year. Many flocks; Ababda and
| | |Hassania tribes. Tomb of Atali
| | |close to the tank. The track leads
| | |past several stony ridges and
| | |sandy soil, across 3 or 4 khors,
| | |notably Fehed, and is lost about 7
Shendi | 41 | 186 |miles from Shendi, which is
| | |reached descending a long very
| | |gradual slope from the high
| | |plateau at the foot of J. Girenat
| | |and Neheidat. Distance taken to
| | |Gubba Shendi.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
16.—EL DAMER TO FASHER (ATBARA).
BY MAJOR BULKELEY JOHNSON, SCOTS GREYS, OCTOBER, 1901.
[Sidenote: General Remarks. Road.]
From El Damer to Goz Regeb the road is stony and sandy, with open
desert or open bush. Going: good for horses in open formation but
slightly heavy; for artillery, heavy, with a strain on the horses
the whole journey. I should suggest some form of detachable broad
sand tyre to prevent sinking of the wheels, as suggested in Journal
of Artillery Institute, of, I think, September, 1901.
From Goz Regeb to Sofi the road is a single track through long grass
on a high plateau, 2 or 3 miles from river, which is difficult of
access owing to broken ground gradually sloping to river, which is
cut up by innumerable khors, water courses, and bush.
The going over the single track is good for horses, but bad for
guns, as both horses and wheels must go through the long grass, and
horses’ feet are continually slipping inwards as the track is narrow
and generally deep. At times, as between Sofi and Mogatta, the path
is completely lost and overgrown with kittr—bad enough for single
horses, but still worse for pairs or led horses; the gun horses on
two occasions coming in red with blood from shoulders down. I would
suggest outside blinkers for gun horses in bush to protect the eyes
from thorns.
[Sidenote: Water.]
During first portion of road, El Damer to Goz Regeb, the river is
difficult of access owing to thick bush and high banks, except in
recognized meshras, often far apart. Water very good; camps good
and shady.
On second portion, Goz Regeb to Fasher, river often 3 miles away, and
very difficult of access. Meshras very few owing to broken ground,
thick bush, and deep khors running in every direction; camps fair
and shady.
[Sidenote: Grasses.]
On Atbara up to Goz Regeb, halfa grass is plentiful along the
banks. After El Fasher plenty of green abu rokba, abu arid, and neghil,
by far the best being abu arid, which, green or dry, is always taken
by the natives in preference to any other for horses and cattle. Naal
is apparently no use as food, but adaa or false dura is better than
nothing.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Damer | — | — |
| | |
El Basli | 14 | 14 |Road across stony desert. Small
| | |village, 150-200 inhabitants,
| | |about 4 miles S. of Abadar Meshra.
| | |Dom fringe, ½ mile broad; outside
| | |this, stony desert. Two roads—one
| | |through doms, the other outside—
| | |single track over stones.
| | |
| | |From El Busli.
| | |
| | |Outside road taken.
| | |
| ¾ | 14¾ |Meshra Umdebia.
| | |
Amerab | 3¾ | 18½ |Amerab village, ½ mile from river;
| | |50 grass tukls, two mud houses.
| 2 | 20½ |Big house standing alone. Sheikh
| | |Omar.
| | |
Minawi | 1¼ | 21¾ |Meshra very good.
| | |
Goz El Halag | 4 | 25¾ |Opposite to Goz El Halag (meshra)
| | |a few tukls. Road still 2 miles
| | |from river. Country changes. Soil
| | |becomes loamy, with some sand and
| | |scattered bush. River bank lined
| | |with doms.
| | |
Girsi | 5¼ | 31 |Village. Cultivation by sagias;
| | |big meshra 2 miles north. Road
| | |shortly goes through dura (rain
| | |crops), therefore patrol skirted
| | |outside this. Country as before;
| | |open bush, mostly tundub; no road.
| | |
Debbet Bush | 3 | 34 |Opposite to big village Debbet.
| | |Bush W. of outer road; about 2
| | |miles from river. Water from 2
| | |wells.
| | |
Burush | 4 | 38 |Opposite to; a few tukls, meshra.
| | |
Abaka | 3 | 41 |Ditto.
| | |
Helal | 7 | 48 |Ditto, meshra. Cultivation, and a
| | |few tukls fairly close; bush mixed
| | |with doms, about 1 mile broad from
| | |river.
| | |
Shigil | 2 | 50 |Meshra. Cultivation on and near
| | |river. Meshra in a small pool,
| | |nearly dry (Oct. 16th). Island, ½
| | |mile long; plenty of neghil grass.
| | |Village of Shigil, about 20 tukls;
| 1 | 51 |½ mile from river in bush.
| | |
Garada | 1 | 52 |Meshra. Road enters dura 1½ miles
| | |from river; narrow path through
| | |thickets.
| | |
Marzuga | 2 | 54 |Meshra.
| | |
| 5 | 59 |Bush ends. Road enters open sandy
| | |desert which stretches down to
| | |river, on banks of which fringe of
| | |doms, ½-1 mile wide.
| | |
El Rimta | 3½ | 62½ |Arab encampment. (No meshra.) Road
| | |close to river. Road runs along
| | |river bank through doms and
| | |cultivation for ½ mile, then open
| | |sandy desert with sunt and tundub
| | |right down to bank; sand hills.
| | |
_El Awadi_ | 3½ | 66 |Meshra (very good). Good shade for
| | |camp. Heavy going for guns. No
| | |road.
| | |
| 10 | 76 |_Good meshra_. No signs of
| | |cultivation.
| | |
_Adarama_ | 4 | 80 |Meshra opposite Adarama.
| | |
| 3 | 83 |Ferry for Adarama. A fringe of
| | |bush, about 1 mile broad, along
| | |river; outside this, open flat
| | |desert with a few tundub bushes.
| | |Road at times 2 miles from river,
| | |across bends, and approaches it at
| | |mile 97.
| | |
| 14 | 97 |_Meshra_, very good (rocky bed);
| | |shady camp. Fringe of bush
| | |impenetrable (except at meshras)
| | |along bank, about 10 yards broad.
| | |This continues for a long
| | |distance. Road close to river.
| | |
_Amiam_ | 10 | 107 |Meshra, by small khor; sandy bank,
| | |¼ mile broad; no inhabitants;
| | |going, sandy and bad.
| | |
_Taroma_ | 6 | 113 |Meshra. Bisharin tukl village;
| | |about 30 people; flocks;
| 4 | 117 |cultivation of dukhn on sandy
| | |banks. Meshra, good; dukhn on
| | |sandy banks. No signs of
| | |inhabitants.
| | |
| 11 | 128 |No meshra, but able to get down to
| | |river by group of doms; sandy
| | |banks, not much grass (halfa).
| | |Road goes away from river to cut
| | |off bend.
| | |
| 5½ | 133½ |Road divides: right hand to Goz
| | |Regeb direct, left keeping near
| | |river. Followed left; going
| | |becomes worse, with small khors
| | |when near river.
| | |
Auli | 2½ | 136 |Arab encampment. Meshra.
| | |
| 6 | 142 |Very _good meshra_; open space on
| | |bank. Fine view of river part of
| | |Auli. No grass.
| | |
| 2 | 144 |_Meshra_. Arab encampment; dukhn,
| | |plenty of halfa grass. End of
| | |Bisharin tribe.
| | |
| 3 | 147 |Arab encampment. Arteiga branch of
| | |Hadendioa. Great quantities of
| | |sheep, cattle and camels.
| | |
| | |G. Tukwe on west, J. Ofreik on
| | |east, just visible from here.
| | |
| | |Succession of small meshras and
| | |encampments.
| | |
| 4 | 151 |_Meshra_.
| | |
| 2 | 153 |_Meshra_.
| | |
| 1 | 154 |Cemetery; stony ground.
| | |
| 3 | 157 |Path debouches into open alluvial
| | |plain (short grass and tundub
| | |bushes) cutting off bend.
| | |
| 5 | 162 |Approach river, near which country
| | |is broken and stony. _Meshra bad_;
| | |no grass except a little abu rokba
| | |(slightly bitter taste when green,
| | |and of which some horses will not
| | |eat at first until accustomed).
| | |Flocks and cattle. Road from 148th
| | |mile close to river, over very
| | |rough, broken, stony ground, and
| | |at times thick bush. Several small
| | |meshras. Goz Regeb’s two hills
| | |visible for first time.
| | |
Saraf | 6 | 168 |Arab encampment; _meshra_.
| | |
_Goz Regeb_ | 12 | 180 |Meshra—1 mile short of it—under
| | |palms. Camp (bad), 2 miles further
| | |on, at ferry. Camel post opposite;
| | |grass, halfa.
| | |
| | |This road makes Goz Regeb 100
| | |miles from Adarama.
| | |
| | |From Goz Regeb the road proceeds
| | |at about 3 miles from river on a
| | |flat table land, as the ground
| | |between it and the river is rocky
| | |and broken by innumerable small
| | |water courses and khors called by
| | |natives “karrab.” The going is
| | |over alluvial soil, rather heavy.
| | |A single track with naal grass on
| | |either side.
| | |
| | |Distances are given exclusive of
| | |detours down to meshras.
| | |
_Gebuib_ | 18 | 198 |Meshra, very good. Good camping
| | |ground; halfa grass. No
| | |inhabitants.
| | |
| 10 | 208 |To _meshra_, about 3 miles.
| | |
| 6 | 214 |Ditto.
| | |
_Umraho_ | 4 | 218 |Ditto. Very good meshra; deep
| | |khors on either side. Bend in
| | |river to east; ford (27th Oct.
| | |1901). Country near meshra very
| | |broken and rough. On turning down
| | |this meshra the tops of two small
| | |hills are visible on right front.
| | |From here road about 3 miles from
| | |river; going gets harder when
| | |nearing Asubri.
| | |
| 8 | 226 |In line between the two hills and
| | |Kassala hill.
| | |
| 10 | 236 |To _meshra_.
| | |
Omara | 1 | 237 |Small village, about ½ mile E. of
| | |road.
| | |
| 3 | 240 |To _meshra_, good. E. 3 miles to
| | |river. Fair camp; abu rokba, but
| | |no halfa grass.
| | |
| 3 | 243 |To Asubri. The road here divides
| | |at right angles: left to Asubri,
| | |right direct to El Fasher,
| | |described as about 30 miles and
| | |track far from river. Therefore
| | |took river road—very bad.
| | |
_Asubri_ | 3 | 246 |Asubri. From here road goes about
| | |1 mile from river and becomes very
| | |good and hard. Country open with
| | |trees and short grass. After 10
| | |miles becomes “Karrab” (ground
| | |broken by small water courses)
| | |again.
| | |
| 12 | 258 |A _meshra_. Hundreds of camels,
| | |thousands of sheep and goats
| | |belonging to Lahawin Arabs. Good
| | |meshra. Bad camp; no grass.
| | |
| 13 | 271 |El Fasher District. Country
| | |changes to park-like land—short
| | |grass dotted with trees.
| | |
El Fasher | 2 | 273 |El Fasher village and fort. Water
| | |from ford.
| | |
Ford | 4 | 277 |Ford; good meshra and camp. Last ½
| | |mile “karrab”; Abu Rokba grass.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
17.—KHARTOUM NORTH TO ABU DELEIG.
COMPILED IN INTELLIGENCE OFFICE, KHARTOUM.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Khartoum, | — | — |Railway terminus, &c. The road
North | | |leads nearly due east, _viâ_ tomb
| | |and well of Haj Yusef (Batahin),
Bir Haj Yusef | 4½ | 4½ |about 80 feet deep, water good but
| | |not plentiful, to Bir Babekr,
Bir Babekr | 4½ | 9 |about 110 feet deep, water good
| | |and plentiful. Scattered salam and
| | |tundab bush. Inhabitants Batahin.
| | |
| | |After leaving Babekr the road
| | |traverses bare level ground
| | |covered with scattered samr and
| | |selem trees. Hafir Medeisis, where
| | |Hassania Arabs live and extract
| | |salt during the rainy season, is
| | |passed, and later Hafir El Wadi,
| | |near which is a low stony hill
| | |named El Gaber. Near Kalamon are
| | |hafirs named Nuba and Um Denun,
| | |where also salt is extracted by
| | |the Hassania.
| | |
Bir Kalamon | 8 | 17 |Well 180 feet deep, water rather
| | |salt, but very plentiful. From
| | |here the direct road passes Hafir
| | |El Kheila, the country is flat and
| | |covered with scattered samr trees
| | |and homra and meharib grass. The
| | |road leads to a stony hill named
J. Dura | 12 | 29 |J. Dura, after which the following
| | |tanks are passed: Jan Kilwa, Um
| | |Gedodeima, and Gala Um Johanis,
| | |over which the road passes; beyond
| | |this is Wadi Safra, where Hassania
| | |Arabs cultivate.
| | |
Wad Hassuna | 30 | 59 |A village of mud houses and well
| | |of this name; also the tomb of
| | |Sheikh Hassan Wad Hassuna, near
| | |which is a large hafir called
| | |Ghobasha. Natives here Hassania,
| | |under Sheikh Hassan Meki. Country
| | |continues flat, and covered here
| | |and there with kitr and samr
| | |trees, also homra and meharib
| | |grass; road is stony and several
| | |khors cross it.
| | |
Hafir Kabarus | 4½ | 63½ |After Hafir Kabarus, three others
| | |by name El Biyut are past.
| | |
Hafir Amria | 7 | 70½ |A very large tank, J. El Sada, is
| | |passed to the south.
| | |
Bir Agab | 8½ | 79 |Two wells, about 90 feet deep,
| | |water good and plentiful.
| | |Mogharba, Hassania, Batahin and
| | |Ababda Arabs live about here.
| | |Several hafirs here, chief of
| | |which are Alatib and Balako. The
| | |latter lies 1½ miles south of the
| | |road, and is said to have been dug
| | |by the “Kufr” or heathen.
| | |
Khor Jegjegi | — | — |After leaving Agab the road soon
| | |runs alongside Khor Jegjegi, which
| | |it continues to follow to Abu
| | |Deleig. Kittr, sayal, heglig, and
| | |samr trees border the khor, which
| | |some 8 to 10 miles further east
| | |joins Wadi Hawad. There are about
| | |50 wells in the Abu Deleig
| | |district, 70 to 100 feet deep, but
| | |in the rainy season water can be
| | |obtained from Khor Jegjegi near
| | |the surface. At Abu Deleig all the
| | |natives live in dom-mat tents, and
| | |here is the residence of Sheikh
| | |Mohammed Talha, head Sheikh of the
| | |Batahin, who are the principal
| | |inhabitants. There is a police
Abu Deleig | 10 | 89 |officer and police post here.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
18.—RUFAA TO GEILI.
BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, JANUARY, 1903.
There are at least three roads.
The western goes by Abu, or El, Gassas, a district apparently included
in another called Rotamat (I am not sure of this). Last water at Abu
Gassas. It afterwards passes some cultivation, but no water except
in autumn.
The eastern goes by Tundub and Wad Arrak, where last water is, and
joins the middle road about 10 miles from Geili.
The middle one was followed, and is described below.
No real road to begin with, simply tracks from village to village. For
the first 9 miles, as far as the village of Kemeilab, through
cultivation all the way. Several villages on either side of road. Then
through thin laot bush, but plenty of cultivation round about.
----------+---------------+---------------+---------------------------
| Hours. | Miles. |
Place. +--------+------+--------+------+ Description.
| Inter- |Total.| Inter- |Total.|
|mediate.| |mediate.| |
----------+--------+------+--------+------+---------------------------
Rufaa | — | — | — | — |Track is good all the way;
| | | | |no steep gradients,
| | | | |difficult khors, nor thick
| | | | |bush. Probably bad after
| | | | |rain.
| | | | |
_Tunbul El| 4 | 4 | 12 | 12 |Good sized village of
Jaalin_ | | | | |Jaalin, with well. There
| | | | |are two other villages
| | | | |close by called Tunbul El
| | | | |Agada and Tunbul El Eishab.
| | | | |Cultivation all the way;
| | | | |many villages seen.
| | | | |
_Abu Zeid,| 3 | 7 | 9 | 21 |A poor village. Well 250
Wad Um | | | | |yards S.E.; village of
Balli_ | | | | |Musaiab close by to N.
| | | | |Track continues mostly
| | | | |through thin low laot bush,
| | | | |but some cultivation is
| | | | |passed. Some villages lie
| | | | |on right, but are not
| | | | |conspicuous. Passes village
| | | | |of Um Hageir.
| | | | |
_Um | 2¾ | 9¾ | 8 | 29 |Thin straggling village;
Shinshin, | | | | |well, on road; last water
or Um | | | | |on road. On through low
Shinashin_| | | | |laot and grass, with very
| | | | |little cultivation, passing
| | | | |the small village of El
| | | | |Gura; no well; last village
| | | | |on road.
| | | | |
Um Ganatir| — | — | 5 | 34 |Tank, a boundary point of
| | | | |Rufaa District, used to be
| | | | |a man’s depth, but now
| | | | |nearly filled up.
| | | | |
Mufad Wad | — | — | 7 | 41 |Tank.
Dereid | | | | |
| | | | |
| 4½ | 14¼ | 1 | 42 |Road crosses a belt of laot
| | | | |giving good firewood; no
| | | | |more for two hours, though
| | | | |there are belts of kittr a
| | | | |mile or two on each side.
| | | | |Geili just visible 29½°
| | | | |(true). Jebel Lebaitor just
| | | | |visible in early morning to
| | | | |S. On over grassy plain,
| | | | |apparently rising.
| | | | |Direction of road some
| | | | |degrees E. of Geili.
| | | | |
Wadi Mofad| 2¼ | 16½ | 6½ | 48½ |Marked by a belt of thin
| | | | |kittr some 250 yards wide.
| | | | |Must be boggy after rain.
| | | | |Two tanks on each side of
| | | | |wadi. The place is called
| | | | |something like Rufa Wa
| | | | |Fagusa, Rufa applying to
| | | | |one pair of tanks and
| | | | |Fagusa to the other, but I
| | | | |am not sure of the names,
| | | | |nor which applies to which.
| | | | |
| | | | |The Wadi Mofad, I was
| | | | |assured, rises near Abu
| | | | |Deleig, and flows S. The
| | | | |wadis of Bahogi and Ankia
| | | | |passed on the Um
| | | | |Dibban—Geili road form part
| | | | |of it.
| | | | |
| | | | |E. of the wadi the Tundub
| | | | |road joins in, and the
| | | | |united road makes straight
| | | | |for Jebel Geili.
| | | | |
| 2¼ | 18¾ | 6½ | 55 |Road crosses a branch of
| | | | |Wadi Mofad coming from the
| | | | |E. of Jebel Geili. Some
| | | | |kittr and other trees.
| | | | |Track begins to get stony,
| | | | |particularly as Jebel Geili
| | | | |is neared.
| | | | |
_J. Geili_| 2¼ | 21 | 6½ | 61½ |Wells at S. end of Jebel
| | | | |Geili close to the carved
| | | | |rock.
----------+--------+------+--------+------+---------------------------
19.—GEDAREF TO KASSALA.
BY LIEUT.-COL. MITFORD (1899) AND CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT (1900).
The direct and more generally used road to Mogatta starts from Gedaref
in a nearly northerly direction, and leaves J. Buadra about 1¼ miles
to the right, and the scene of the battle of Gedaref ¼ of a mile
on the left hand. After passing through much cultivation and high
grass, the filthy village of Wad Gabu on the top of a small hill is
reached. The water supply of this village is from a well some 2½
or 3 miles to the W. or S.W., and animals have to be sent there,
as very little water is obtainable at the village itself. There is
a rest house here.
J. Kassamon is visible nearly due N. About 2¼ miles further on the
telegraph line and an alternative route from Gedaref, _viâ_ Seraf
El Buadra and Bir Rowajda, which is generally dry, joins in.
From here to R. Atbara, at Mogatta, there is no water, and the country
is most uninteresting. In the rains the scrub and scattered bush is
almost concealed by high grass; this is burnt in the dry season,
and the country then is bare black cotton soil, and devoid of any
grazing for animals. About 12 miles from the river dense bush, chiefly
kittr, begins, and continues until the halting place at Mogatta is
reached. This road is nearly 20 miles shorter than that _viâ_ Sofi.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gedaref | — | — |The track to Sofi leaves Gedaref
| | |in a N.E. direction, passing down
| | |a valley between gardens,
| | |cultivation and high grass;
| | |several hamlets half a mile
| | |distant on either side of road. A
| | |gentle ascent on N. side of valley
| | |to N.E. corner of a low flat hill
| | |called J. Buadra.
| | |
_Khor Seraf El| 3 | 3 |This khor crosses the path near
Buadra_ | | |corner of J. Buadra. One well,
| | |upper portion stone faced; 24 feet
| | |deep, 5 feet diameter, 4 feet of
| | |water. Two similar wells near
| | |track, one ½ a mile, the other 1
| | |mile further on. From this point
| | |track is a single camel path,
| | |winding among high grass or
| | |through bush; in places very
| | |stony. Ground on either flank
| | |cracked cotton soil.
| | |
| 2 | 5 |Top of pass is reached; the small
| | |hamlets of Um Shedra, Hissainad,
| | |and Turfur are seen in succession
| | |on the left hand of the track.
| | |
| 2½ | 7½ |A rise in the ground known as
| | |Gumerab is reached. On far side of
| | |it track descends sharply for 40
| | |feet, over rocks and stones on to
| | |a plain. General direction E. by
| | |N. Some dukhn or dura patches;
| | |rest of the ground covered with
| | |high aada and shush grass. 5 feet
| | |high.
| | |
| 4¼ | 11¾ |A copse of talh trees is passed
| | |through. For the next 5 miles are
| | |scattered trees along the path,
| | |with copses of hashab trees a few
| | |hundred yards to a mile on either
| | |side; shush, aada, naal and
| | |Umdenaib grasses.
| | |
| 4¾ | 16½ |A shallow excavation to catch
| | |rain-water is seen on left, 100
| | |yards off. General direction
| | |E.N.E. At the 24th and 27th miles,
| | |two more small rain-water
| | |reservoirs are passed.
| | |
Khor Bitnasr | 15½ | 32 |This khor is here crossed; it
| | |trends northwards and runs into
| | |the Khor Tomat. Ground now ascends
| | |slightly and is more broken, and
| | |track crosses several small khors.
| | |At the 34th mile the edge of the
| | |plateau is reached, and a sharp
| | |descent of 90 feet ensues.
| | |
_Sofi_ (Rest | 3 | 35 |A straggling village of a hundred
house) | | |men (Jaalin) on spurs running down
| | |to the Atbara 400 yards away. At
| | |date the river is easily fordable,
| | |the water not being knee deep and
| | |20 yards broad near the village.
| | |From this point the track as far
| | |as El Fasher follows the course of
| | |the river on the left bank, and
| | |distant from it 1 to 5 miles. The
| | |bush and jungle prevent approach
| | |from the track, except at the
| | |watering places in use. From Sofi
| | |the track winds up to the plateau
| | |in a N.W. direction along and in
| | |khors. On reaching this plateau,
| | |after a mile, the track bears
| | |generally due N. Quarter of a mile
| | |of dura cultivation is passed
| | |through, then the path runs along
| | |the flat top of a watershed
| | |draining into the Atbara on the
| | |right, and into the Khor Tomat on
| | |the left.
| | |
| | |One and a half miles E. of the
| | |Atbara the Setit runs parallel
| | |with the river and the khor until
| | |its junction with the former.
| | |Going is now very bad, kittr,
| | |laot, talh and sant close to the
| | |path; cracked cotton soil. At the
| | |43rd mile the track descends with
| | |twists and turns towards the
| | |river, and just before reaching
| | |Khor Tomat some salt workings are
| | |passed through.
| | |
_Khor Tomat_ | 9½ | 44½ |The khor near its junction with
(Rest house) | | |the river is 30 yards wide and 4
| | |feet deep. It takes its name from
| | |a mound near the khor with two
| | |knolls (Tomat = twins). Formerly
| | |there were several hamlets in the
| | |neighbourhood, but no traces
| | |exist.[11] The nearest hillet to
| | |the river was Wad Abu Hamed, just
| | |N. of the khor. Easy access to
| | |water at date. Track winds over
| | |undulating ground intersected by
| | |khors, below the plateau 1 to 2
| | |miles distant to the westward.
| | |Trees not quite so thick or close.
| | |
_Khor Um | 4 | 48½ |The Atbara is again reached here,
Garra_ | | |about 1 mile N. of its junction
| | |with the Setit, which brings down
| | |at this time of the year more
| | |water than the Atbara, and appears
| | |to be a broader and finer stream.
| | |
| | |Good watering place.
| | |
| | |The path leaves the river in a
| | |N.W. direction over broken and
| | |undulating ground for 1 mile. The
| | |plateau is reached and again thick
| | |bush and trees are passed through.
| | |At 55 miles J. Akelai is visible
| | |through a break in the trees,
| | |nearly due E.
| | |
Khor Fatut | 11½ | 60 |Track winds down to this khor, and
| | |then for 1½ miles passes over very
| | |broken ground. Track then
| | |improves; the country is not so
| | |closely wooded, and several open
| | |spaces are traversed.
| | |
_Mogatta_ | 10 | 70 |No village; grazing and watering
(Rest house) | | |place of the nomad Arabs. The
| | |river is 12 miles from the track.
| | |Several large islands in the
| | |Atbara here, the water in the dry
| | |season passing down by the left
| | |bank. Lions are plentiful here.
| | |
| | |Here the direct road from Gedaref
| | |comes in. From this point the road
| | |improves considerably. Troops can
| | |move on a broader front, and the
| | |soil, though still cotton, is not
| | |so cracked; the earth has a
| | |slightly red tinge. Occasionally
| | |belts of bush are traversed. At
| | |the 92nd mile the track descends,
| | |and the ground becomes very
| | |broken. The remains of an old
| | |Dervish post on a spur are seen
| | |400 yards to right.
| | |
_M. Khashm El | 23½ | 93½ |Track here meets the river; a
Girba_ | | |tributary, or branch of the
| | |Atbara, comes in here on the
| | |opposite bank, with water still in
| | |it. Broken country is again
| | |traversed, and many knolls and
| | |khors are passed until the plateau
| | |is again reached. Trees are
| | |larger, and ground covered with
| | |gau grass, excellent for grazing
| | |cattle and sheep.
| | |
Dervish earth | 3 | 96½ |A square Dervish earthwork, each
work | | |side about 80 yards long, is
| | |passed on right. This was the site
| | |of El Fasher village when it
| | |existed.
| | |
_El Fasher | 4 | 100½ |At date, river was 50 yards broad,
ford_ (Rest | | |18 inches deep at the most at the
house) | | |ford.
| | |
| | |Bottom of bed consists of shingle.
| | |Quarter of a mile up stream on the
| | |right bank is the site of the post
| | |held by a detachment from the
| | |Kassala garrison in 1898.
| | |
| | |On leaving the ford, track leads
| | |up the ascent to the plateau for 2
| | |miles, and passes over very broken
| | |country intersected by khors. Then
| | |the path is excellent; large open
| | |spaces are divided by belts of
| | |trees. J. Kassala bears E.N.E.
| | |
El Mellawiya | 22 | 122½ |An open (now) grassy space, where
| | |rain-water collects and stands
| | |from July to October. Serut flies
| | |bad at that season, also snakes.
| | |Attempts to make a well here have
| | |so far been abortive.
| | |
Old well | 5 | 127½ |An old government well is passed
| | |on right, now filled in. Country
| | |now becomes closer, and trees with
| | |bright green leaves become more
| | |numerous; track narrows
| | |considerably[12] as the Khor El
| | |Gash is reached, though movement
| | |is possible between the trees on
| | |either flank. At the 135th mile,
| | |the minaret of the Khatmia is
| | |visible to the right, and soon the
| | |factory chimney of Kassala is
| | |visible to the front.
| | |
Khor El Gash | 12½ | 140 |The left bank of this khor is
| | |reached; 600 to 700 yards broad.
| | |
Kassala | ½ | 140½ |Old town and Egyptian fort, now in
| | |ruins.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
20.—GEDAREF TO GALLABAT.
BY COL. COLLINSON AND CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT, 1898.
(_Corrected up to_ 1900.)
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gedaref | — | — |From Gedaref the road usually
| | |taken leads in a S.E. direction,
| | |and passes through much
_Wells_ | 2¼ | 2¼ |cultivation to wells situated in a
| | |khor midway between the villages
| | |of Dalasa and Gabeisha. From here
| | |the road continues to pass through
| | |rain cultivation, which extends on
| | |both sides of the roads more or
| | |less continuously almost as far as
| | |the eye can reach until 6 or 7
| | |miles from Shasheina, after which
| | |only occasional patches are seen.
| | |
Shasheina | 14¾ | 17 |Several groups of tukls belonging
(Rest house) | | |to Debania and Takruris on western
| | |slope of a low ridge. Two good
| | |wells with any amount of good
| | |water, roughly 30 to 40 feet down.
| | |
| | |Leaving here the track skirts the
| | |bottom of the ridge and leads in a
| | |southerly direction over stony,
| | |bad going for about 2 miles, when
| 7 | 24 |it bends to S.E. and passes over
| | |an open plain to the E.; on the W.
| | |forest begins. The wells of
| | |Amzuani and Galaat Eila are passed
| | |2½ miles and ¾ mile to the E. of
| | |the track.
| | |
| | |J. Doka is now visible right
| | |ahead.
| | |
| | |The path here enters forest which
| | |continues to Doka. The soil black
| | |cracked cotton soil and the path
| | |is occasionally stony. Hashab,
| | |soffar and talh are the trees that
| | |predominate.
| | |
_Doka_ (Rest | 21 | 45 |A very wretched village that has
house) | | |seen better days. It used to be
| | |the residence of a mudir or
| | |important official in the old
| | |government days. The remains of
| | |his palace, &c., are still
| | |standing. Two wells, very
| | |indifferent supply; generally dry
| | |in the middle of the day a few
| | |months after the rains.
| | |
| | |There is a path from here to Abu
| | |Gulud and Sofi, also to Nogara. On
| | |leaving Doka several hills are
| | |passed, the principal being J.
| | |Doka 2 miles to the E., and
| | |Ajerawi or Kajerawi to the W.
| | |About 4 miles from Doka the route
| | |from Asar joins in from the right.
| | |This road is very little used, and
| | |is hardly noticeable. The track
| | |here becomes stony for a mile or
| | |so.
| | |
Khor Kefaia | 8 | 53 |Khor Kefaia, running W.
| | |
Khor Kanin | 3½ | 56½ |Khor Kanin, also running W.
| | |
_Seraf Said_ | 10 | 66½ |Several small villages and two
(Rest house) | | |wells in the khor of this name
| | |which is the boundary between
| | |Gedaref and Gallabat. Wells 30 to
| | |40 feet deep; fair supply. From
| | |here a road goes W. to Durraba[13]
| | |near the Rahad, and there is a
| | |track, made by honey hunters, to
| | |the Atbara, which is 13 or 14
| | |miles eastwards.
| | |
| | |For the first 2 miles after
| | |leaving the wells a good deal of
| | |dura and dukhn cultivation is
| | |passed through, and then forest
| | |with some quite fine trees begins
| | |and continues to within a mile of
| | |Gallabat.
| | |
_Khor Kuneina_| 15 | 81½ |The hills of Ras El Fil, where
(Rest house) | | |this khor originates, are passed 2
| | |miles on the right. Up to January
| | |water is obtainable slowly from
| | |holes about 3 feet deep in its
| | |bed. Later these become dry. Fine
| | |ardeib tree. Thick forest, chiefly
| | |talh and heglig, continues to Khor
_Khor Otruk_ | 7 | 88½ |Otruk, where water stands in a
| | |pool all the year round. There are
| | |also wells near, from which
| | |several small villages obtain
| | |their water.
| | |
| | |The road now ascends an easy slope
| | |for about 2 miles, and hills are
| | |passed to the right and left. From
| | |the top of this ascent Gallabat is
| | |visible, and ½ mile before
| | |reaching it a small khor with
| | |_running water_ is crossed.
| | |
Gallabat | 4½ | 93 |Old fort of Zeki Tumal’s, 120 feet
| | |above the town which lies at foot
| | |of slope about 400 yards E. Water
| | |from stream, which constitutes
| | |boundary with Abyssinia, 800 yards
| | |E. of fort.
| | |
| | |[There is an alternative route
| | |_viâ_ Asar. This is however very
| | |little used. It was taken by the
| | |two companies of Soudanese troops
| | |who first occupied Gallabat in
| | |December, 1898. It had been
| | |previously used a good deal by
| | |Dervish fugitives to and from
| | |Gedaref. The water supply along
| | |the Doka road is now better and is
| | |sufficient, if troops march at
| | |night, without carrying any great
| | |amount of water:—
| | |
Gedaref | — | — |A rather stony track in places
| | |leads across open country covered
_Asar_ | 10 | 10 |with high grass and dura to Asar.
| | |This is a Debania village and
| | |residence of their head Sheikh,
| | |Wad Zaid, and is situated at the
| | |S.W. end of a ridge 300 feet high
| | |and 1½ miles long, running nearly
| | |N. and S. Here there are two good
| | |wells which supplied Ahmed Fedil’s
| | |force of 3,000 to 4,000 men
| | |besides women, &c., for more than
| | |three weeks. A road leads from
| | |here to Beila, also to Shasheina.
| | |
| | |Leaving Asar, several deserted
| | |villages were passed, and after
| | |traversing undulating open country
| | |for 8 miles, talh and soffar
| | |forest commences.
| | |
_Khor Tagala_ | 15 | 25 |Water in holes in rocks by the
| | |road side. It has the usual
| | |stagnant rain-water taste and
| | |smell, but is said to last all the
| | |year round. Large baobab close to
| | |water. The track continues through
| | |forest with occasional open spaces
_Khor Ardeiba_| 15 | 40 |to Khor Ardeiba.
| | |
| | |A large khor running W. between
| | |hills. Water is found in several
| | |places in the rock on the side of
| | |the hill on left bank of khor. The
| | |supply was very scanty at
| | |beginning of December, and is not
| | |to be relied on.
| | |
| | |For the first 3 or 4 miles after
| | |leaving the bed of the khor the
| | |track ascends and descends several
| | |short steep slopes; trees
| | |interfere with the path, which is
| | |somewhat stony. It then crosses a
| | |fairly open cotton soil plain to a
| | |stone-lined well about 60 feet
_J. Kajerawi_ | 10 | 50 |deep, at the foot of J. Kajerawi
| | |or Ajerawi. As this well was not
| | |in regular use, the water tasted
| | |and smelt, but there was plenty of
| | |it.
| | |
| | |Four miles on the track joins in
| | |with the main road previously
| | |described, about 5 miles S. of
| | |Doka.]
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
21.—ABU HARAZ TO GEDAREF.[14]
BY LIEUT.-COLONEL B. R. MITFORD, MARCH, 1899.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Abu Haraz | — | — |Half of a mile N. of junction of
| | |R. Rahad and Blue Nile. Track
| | |leads through the village in an E.
| | |direction, and 4 miles over a
| | |plain covered with grass 4 feet
| | |high after rains; then some bush
| | |is entered which necessitates
| | |reducing front of the column to
| | |file. The Rahad is from 1 to 1½
| | |miles distant on right flank, its
| | |banks covered with a belt of
| | |jungle. Track consists of four to
| | |six camel tracks over cotton soil.
| | |
_Meshra El | 8 | 8 |Half a mile before reaching this
Hedeiba_ | | |meshra, the road bends to the
| | |S.E.; 1¼ miles E. is the village
| | |of Hedeiba, and 2 to 3 miles N.E.
| | |is the village of Shegeila. A
| | |single flat-topped samr tree marks
| | |nearest point for water. A large
| | |pool of water always here during
| | |the dry season in the river bed.
| | |Track passes over grassy plain
| | |covered with the usual grasses met
| | |with along the road, viz.: aada
| | |grass, which grows in wet places
| | |as high as 18 feet, and naal, from
| | |1½ to 3 feet high.
| | |
_Id El Maya_ | 2½ | 10½ |A descent of ½ mile brings one to
| | |this khor skirted with trees; the
| | |hamlet of that name lies 2 miles
| | |from the river; a meshra and pool
| | |here in the dry season. The hamlet
| | |of Amara lies 2½ miles N.E. Same
| | |country is traversed, with
| | |occasional belt of trees.
| | |
Khor Abu | 5½ | 16 |Track passes this khor 1½ miles
Seghira | | |from the meshra, which is very
| | |difficult to find, owing to the
| | |jungle and the creepers festooned
| | |from tree to tree. No pool there
| | |this dry season.
| | |
Khoran El Homr| 2 | 18 |The “Red Khor,” of which there are
| | |three. The second one is 1½ miles
| | |on, and the third 1 mile further
| | |on. Each khor is thickly fringed
| | |with trees, bush, and high grass,
| | |after rains. The track is now some
| | |3 or 4 miles from the Rahad. At
| | |23½ miles another khor is crossed,
| | |and the ground rises into a stony
| | |plateau.
| | |
_H. Sherif | 6½ | 24½ |Track passes to E. of this
Yagub_ | | |village. Inhabitants are Ashraf.
| | |
_M. El Egeiga_| ½ | 25 |Camping ground is on a bluff 40
| | |feet above bed of river; a pool of
| | |water always here in the dry
| | |season. Natives say that in the
| | |winter months it is not a good
| | |camping ground, as it is very
| | |feverish at night. Country now
| | |becomes much more close, trees and
| | |bushes narrow the track in many
| | |places, and in the autumn the high
| | |grass obscures all view to front
| | |or flanks.
| | |
_M. Abuet El | 5 | 30 |This meshra is only 100 yards from
Messih_ | | |the track, but the river is
| | |somewhat hidden by the jungle.
| | |Very unhealthy camping ground
| | |during the autumn and winter.
| | |Track continues through bush, with
| | |occasional open spaces.
| | |
_M. El Esheir_| 3 | 33 |Good camping ground near track,
| | |500 yards from the river. Just
| | |after leaving this place, the
| | |Arang range can be seen in clear
| | |weather. Track as before.
| | |
_Ein El | 7 | 40 |Watering place here, on the Rahad,
Lueiga_ | | |in the dry season; not a good
| | |camping ground during or after
| | |rains, there being much fever. The
| | |track now leaves the vicinity of
| | |the Rahad, and for the first 5
| | |miles trends towards the N.E.
| | |corner of the Arang hills. The
| | |Kassala Province is entered here.
| | |
| | |At the 48th mile a depression is
| | |passed, where a little water is
| | |sometimes found during the rains.
| | |Plain covered with grass 1 to 10
| | |feet high in October, which from
| | |that month becomes broken down by
| | |the wind, and in March is only 2
| | |feet high. Track twists and turns
| | |considerably until the hills are
| | |reached.
| | |
Galaat Arang | 18 | 58 |The track strikes these hills
| | |about 4 or 5 miles from its S.
| | |end; bush is again entered, and
| | |track becomes very stony and
| | |covered with fallen boulders from
| | |the hills.
| | |
| | |The hills are mostly rock, covered
| | |with laot, and stunted baobab or
| | |tebeldi trees. Ariel, gazelle,
| | |bustard, guinea fowl, sand grouse,
| | |apes, and baboons in these hills.
| | |A mile on two pools of water are
| | |formed in a shallow rocky
| | |depression during rains, which is
| | |only fit for camels. Track follows
| | |the foot of the hills towards the
| | |N., through bush and over stony
| | |ground.
| | |
_El Fau_ (Rest| 9 | 67 |Track passes through a gorge in
house) | | |the hills, wherein are the wells
| | |of El Fau, near the E. mouth of
| | |the gorge. One well, stone faced,
| | |10 feet in diameter, 27 feet deep;
| | |surface of water 1 foot from top
| | |in October, 10 feet in March. The
| | |other, stone faced, 5 feet in
| | |diameter, 15 to 20 feet deep.
| | |Water, both good. There are
| | |several other wells in the
| | |vicinity during rains, and pools
| | |of water in holes and depressions.
| | |
| | |Track runs along the E. foot of
| | |the hills to the N. point; bushy
| | |and stony.
| | |
North End | 5 | 72 |Near the N.W. point of the Arang
Arang | | |hills is H. Badad, or H. Sheikh
| | |Shah El Din; one well, now filled
| | |up. General direction of track is
| | |now N.E. To the S. is seen J.
| | |Fines, or Fenis, and to the S.E.
| | |is J. Sergein. Bush becomes very
| | |close; cotton soil.
| | |
J. Bayuda | 8 | 80 |Or Buwa’da, or Buwada’. A broad,
| | |low, conical hill; some water in
| | |rocky holes during the rains.
| | |Track now runs E. by S., and for
| | |the next 8 miles through thick
| | |bush; country then becomes more
| | |open and covered with grass again.
| | |
Ummat Rumeila | 19 | 99 |A group of some five or six hills,
(Rest house) | | |averaging 80 to 100 feet high.
| | |Some water in pools and holes
| | |during rains. The track passes in
| | |a N.E. direction through the
| | |hills; several patches of bush are
| | |traversed. At the 110th mile a
| | |narrow belt of laot trees, 10
| | |yards broad, commences to run
| | |alongside or in the middle of the
| | |track; this belt follows the road
| | |for 13 miles.
| | |
Taras Wad El | 20 | 119 |A small depression, wherein water
Fahl (Rest | | |lies during rains. Two thorn
house) | | |bushes to S. of track mark it.
| | |
Khor Abu | 7 | 126 |A descent leads to this very
Hashim | | |shallow khor, and a similar rise
| | |takes place on its E. side. J.
| | |Tiwawa now becomes visible to the
| | |E. Track runs over a grassy plain
| | |with not even a shrub on it.
| | |
Khor Abu | 11 | 137 |Or Abu Fura. This khor rises near
Faraga | | |Gedaref, and at this point the
| | |track meets it; it here turns S.
| | |The track runs parallel with it
| | |for a mile, 2 to 400 yards
| | |distant. At the 139th mile ground
| | |falls gently.
| | |
Um Gulgia | 3 | 140 |A stony mound on left of the track
| | |containing several deep holes,
| | |said to contain enough water for
| | |1,000 men and 500 camels during
| | |the rains.
| | |
| | |Ground still falls gently, and a
| | |mile on a small khor is crossed;
| | |then ground ascends through small
| | |scattered soffar trees. At the
| | |143rd mile the houses of Gedaref
| | |are visible. Track passes several
| | |hamlets on either side, and
| | |through much cultivation and high
| | |aada grass, along S. side of J.
| | |Tiwawa.
| | |
Gedaref | 6 | 146 |On top of a long gentle slope.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
22.—GEDAREF _viâ_ HAWATA TO ABU HARAZ.
BY MAJOR BULKELEY-JOHNSON, NOVEMBER, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gedaref | — | — |Road leaves Gedaref from behind
| | |the old barracks, and takes a S.W.
| | |direction for 6 miles. Scattered
| | |cultivation of every kind. A flat
| | |basin like that N. of Gedaref.
| | |
J. Wad Sennat | 4½ | 4½ |Small hill 100 feet high and 500
| | |yards long, running N.W. and S.E.,
| | |with small hella S. slope.
| | |
_Abu Nagar_ | 1½ | 6 |Tukl village. ½ mile right of
| | |road; one of Abu Nagar group of
| | |five villages.
| | |
| ½ | 6½ |Ditto on left of road.
| | |
| ½ | 7 |Well 30 feet deep; water always,
| | |but only 6 feet deep; watered 80
| | |horses in 30 minutes.
| | |
| ½ | 7½ |Hella ½ mile right of road. Road
| | |bends to S.W. by W.
| | |
| 1½ | 9 |Cultivation ends. Road bad from
| | |small bushes hidden in naal grass.
| | |
J. Matni | 17 | 26 |J. Matni ½ mile long, 50 to 100
| | |feet high; stony and covered with
| | |habil trees. Woods round J. Matni
| | |(soffar and habil) to the E.
| | |
| | |From J. Matni to Beila by direct
| | |road 2 miles are saved. After J.
| | |Matni road branches to right,
| | |straight to Beila; left to Ghanem
| | |or Ganam (meaning water holes).
| | |
_Ghanem_ | 3 | 29 |Small khor and 12 water holes
| | |about 8 feet deep, and water 1
| | |foot 6 inches (Nov. 15th);
| | |probably dry by end of month
| | |(1901), rain having been slightly
| | |under average.
| | |
| 2 | 31 |Joins main road nearly at right
| | |angles.
| | |
| 15½ | 46½ |Small hill ¼ mile off the road.
| | |Road afterwards curls in between
| | |it and Beila to two small hellas
| | |on far side.
| | |
_Beila_[15] | ½ | 47 |Two small villages and two
| | |splendid wells cut in solid rock;
| | |any amount of beautiful clear
| | |water all the year round[15], 50
| | |feet deep; revetted at top; very
| | |good grasses here. From Beila a
| | |road now goes to Mafaya on the
| | |Rahad, which is much shorter than
| | |going to Hawata.
| | |
_El Fereikh_ | 5 | 52 |Thirty tukls; inhabited all the
| | |year road; now water from holes
| | |dry in March, 1902.
| | |
_J. Arid_ | 5 | 57 |Four water holes 6 inches deep,
| | |nearly empty on arrival; when
| | |opened up to 9 inches gave 3 feet
| | |muddy water. Nov. 17th watered 80
| | |horses three times; dry in March,
| | |1902.
| | |
J. Gerein | — | — |Water nearly finished; 30 tukls
| | |inhabited all year round.[16]
| | |Later on get water from Rahad,
| | |which is here about 60 yards wide
| | |and water 4 feet deep in Nov.
| | |Banks steep.
| | |
_Hawata_ | 18 | 75 |Very good camp. Fairly large
| | |village here.
| | |
| | |Road follows the river, never more
| | |than 2 miles from it, cutting off
| | |small bends. Single track; good
| | |through long grass; bad for guns
| | |as wheels or teams are going
| | |through the grass. River
| | |approachable everywhere, and
| | |watering possible at all times of
| | |year.
| | |
| | |Camps exceedingly good under shade
| | |of sunt trees 30-40 feet high.
| | |Grasses in abundance and good,
| | |neghil, abu rokba and abu arid.
| | |
| | |From Hawata track proceeds along
| | |right bank and enters bush.
| | |
_Wad Keriam_ | 2½ | 77½ |Part of Hawata belonging to Abu
| | |Bakr; small hills; clearing and
| | |cultivation.
| | |
| ½ | 78 |Ten tukls, ditto, ditto.
| | |
| | |Bush and grass alternately; thick
| | |bush, inland kittr and talh.
| | |
| 8 | 86 |Grass plain. Bend of river meeting
| | |it again at
| | |
_Wad Kerein_ | 5 | 91 |Fifty tukls belonging to Abu Sin,
| | |as does all the country up to
| | |hella Sherif El Hindi.
| | |
_Wad Mayim_ or| 2 | 93 |Same as Wad Kerein.
Wad Balula | | |
| | |
| 8 | 101 |Road crosses to left bank. Ford on
| | |Nov. 13th, about 3 feet deep; Nov.
| | |24th, 6 inches deep. There is no
| | |road on E. bank, only thick bush.
| | |From here open grass plain, bush
| | |inland, ½ mile off river bends
| | |from road.
| | |
| | |Between road and river a strip of
| | |country with big red sunt trees
| | |30-40 feet high and good grasses.
| | |The road now strikes khor—thickly
| | |wooded leading to lagoon running
| | |W. from river, which turns to
| | |S.W., road goes round it turning
| | |W. and afterwards S.
| | |
| 7 | 108 |Head of lagoon.
| | |
_Muttu_ | ½ | 108½ |Road branches to right of
| | |hella—Hawata (Arabs) 1½ miles
| | |off—300 yards from river in open
| | |bush.
| | |
| 1½ | 110 |Road to Muttu and meshra, 1 mile
| | |of thick bush, kitr and talh.
| | |
| 1 | 111 |Khor (dry).
| | |
| 2 | 113 |Big khor, nearly dry—very
| | |difficult during rains and up to
| | |Nov. 1st, 1901. Soft mud Nov.
| | |27th.
| | |
| 2½ | 115½ |Small road to right, leading to
| | |big khor thickly wooded, water 4
| | |feet deep or lagoon.
| | |
| 1½ | 117 |Khor (dry).
| | |
| 2½ | 119½ |Ditto leading to meshra.
| | |
| | |Road alternately bush and grass.
| | |
| 6½ | 126 |Road branches to meshra.
| | |
| 6 | 132 |Approaches meshra, 200 yards.
| | |
| 11 | 143 |Deserted village, 100 yards left
| | |of road.
| | |
| | |Road very good, broad and hard.
| | |
| 3 | 146 |Cross road from Rahad to Dinder.
| | |
| 10 | 156 |Ditto to Blue Nile.
| | |
| 1 | 157 |Road from meshra to hella, inland
| | |2 miles.
| | |
| 4 | 161 |Opposite to Ein El Lueiga.
| | |
| 3 | 164 |Road branches to right towards
| | |river—left to Sherif El Hindi.
| | |
Aruth Rutha | 2 | 166 |Road to Hella Aruth.
| | |
Hafeira | 2½ | 168 |Hella; Arab encampment; flocks and
| | |herds.
| | |
Wad Rekeih | 1½ | 170 |Hella, 100 yards right of road.
| | |
Sherif | 2 | 172 |Hella of Sherif Yusef El Hindi.
| | |
| 4½ | 176½ |Ford and road to Sherif Yakub.
| | |Road crosses river.
| | |
Abu Haraz | 24½ | 201 |(Afterwards _see_ map).
| | |
| | |[Rahad ceased to flow Nov. 30th,
| | |1901; only a slight trickle on
| | |29th.]
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
23.—SOFI _viâ_ ABU GULUD TO SERAF SAID.
BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, FEBRUARY, 1900.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Sofi | — | — |Road goes down into khor and then
| | |winding through bushes and water
| | |courses follows crest of ridge
| | |between Atbara and Khor Gurri,
| | |then turns E. towards Kreder.
| | |
Kreder | 6 | 6 |A village of about 100 huts on
| | |spur above river, and not as shown
| | |on old maps.
| | |
_Sherif | 9 | 15 |There is no road now; I went
Ibrahim_ | | |across country, crossing ravines
| | |bordering Atbara, camels followed
| | |edge of plateau about 5 hours’
| | |march from Sofi. No village, only
| | |tombs of former inhabitants. Path
| | |leads from village to Meshra on
| | |Atbara.
| | |
_Dabuli_ | 12 | 27 |Left Sherif Ibrahim in a S.W.
| | |direction, and after 1 hour struck
| | |old path from Sofi; followed this,
| | |and after 2 hours came on
| | |cultivation. A big khor runs in
| | |N.E. direction towards Atbara.
| | |There are old wells here and site
| | |of village. New wells are being
| | |opened.
| | |
_Goreisha_ | 15 | 42 |Road now crosses khor above
| | |mentioned twice, and after 2 hours
| | |J. Tomborgu is passed on the
| | |right. From here road crosses
| | |three big khors, and in the next
| | |Khor J. Omrad, then cultivation of
| | |Goreisha is reached on left of
| | |road. Right side, thick bush.
| | |Another hour and Goreisha is
| | |reached; two villages with good
| | |wells and cultivation in khor.
| | |
_Abu Gulud_ | 4 | 46 |Road now crosses and recrosses
| | |this khor, which runs from Abu
| | |Gulud; after half an hour village
| | |of Salama is passed on khor on
| | |right, and after half hour arrive
| | |at Abu Gulud. Two villages; wells
| | |and cultivation. From here a track
| | |goes to Doka.
| | |
_Zemalat_ | 20 | 66 |Road leaves here in S.W.
| | |direction; about 1 mile Agala, a
| | |large village, is passed; about 4
| | |miles on a rocky ridge; ditto
| | |about 8 miles; about 10 miles
| | |village Lubaina. Few huts here.
| | |People only here for cultivation;
| | |water from Zemalat village on
| | |crest or ridge. Water from holes
| | |in khor below village, about 1
| | |mile away. From here a good view
| | |of hills near Doka and J. Nahut,
| | |J. Gadabi, and Ras El Fil
| | |obtainable.
| | |
_Seraf Said_ | 10 | 76 |Road now descends from ridge,
| | |cotton soil and bad going; about 6
| | |miles out J. Meriod is passed on
| | |right of track—village round other
| | |side of hill. Direct track leads
| | |off to right to village; bad going
| | |cotton soil. Rocky water hole in
| | |Meriod Khor not used now; about
| | |10th mile cross Seraf Khor.
| | |
| | |Two wells with water-tracks lead
| | |from here to Gallabat and Duraba,
| | |and the road from Doka joins here.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
24.—FAMAKA TO ABU RAMLA.
BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Abrunga | — | — |The direct route is up the khor
| | |through the Samina group. Very
| | |little water among these hills and
| | |none on the road.
| | |
_Belitamaru_ | 14 | 14 |About 1 mile north of the village
| | |and Belitamaru there are hills
| | |giving a little bed water in the
| | |Khor Godaff.
| | |
_Matongwe_ | 11 | 25 |Matongwe is a small Gumz village
| | |among the rocks on the side and
| | |top of J. Matongwe. Good well at
| | |the foot of the mountain. The
| | |mountain is a very striking needle
| | |of rock jutting straight out of
| | |the plain.
| | |
_J. Abu Ramla_| 12 | 37 |No more water is found till J. Abu
| | |Ramla is reached, and even there
| | |it can only be obtained in any
| | |quantity from the Khor Ramla at
| | |north-east end of mountain. There
| | |are holes in the rock on the hill
| | |side, however, which supply the
Mek’s Village | 3 | 40 |villages with drinking water.
| | |
| | |Another route can be taken from
| | |Famaka along the Nile to Hoburra,
| | |and thence to Belitamaru through
| | |Abrunga, but the first portion of
| | |the road along the river is very
| | |bad.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
25.—KARKOJ TO HAWATA.
BY MR. E. BONHAM CARTER, MARCH, 1902.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Karkoj | — | — |R. bank Blue Nile.
| | |
| | |From Karkoj, a narrow but well
| | |defined track leads through bush,
| | |thick in places, to the village of
_Kamrab_ | 18 | 18 |Kamrab, half a mile beyond which
| | |is a well and trees giving
| | |excellent shade.
| | |
_Abu Hashim_ | 4½ | 22½ |The R. Dinder is reached at Abu
| | |Hashim (Sheikh El Amin), a village
| | |on the left bank. The Dinder 100
| | |yards wide was dry here (March,
| | |1902), but there were water holes
| | |in its bed.
| | |
_Meshra | 12½ | 35 |The road here crosses the Dinder
Deberki_ | | |and follows the river to Meshra
| | |Deberki. River dry here, and about
| | |100 yards wide, but water holes in
| | |bed, and there is a large pool
| | |about ¼ mile up the river. No
| | |village here. Little shade at
| | |Meshra, but plenty ½ mile further
| | |up the river.
| | |
| | |The track here leaves the river,
| | |and after crossing an open piece
| | |passes through thick bush for 2
| | |miles, after which an open grassy
| | |plain with scattered bush extends
| | |for some distance.
| | |
| | |The track is merely a single
| | |donkey track over deeply cracked
| | |cotton soil, and is bad going.
| | |
Khor Atshan | 17 | 52 |Khor Atshan is crossed; a shallow
| | |khor draining into the Dinder.
| | |
_River Rahad_ | 16 | 68 |Track continues same with
| | |occasional bush to the Rahad; a
| | |few tukls here. Rahad in pools.
| | |
_Hawata_ | 3 | 71 |Three miles on down stream, Hawata
| | |is reached on the right bank. Here
| | |there is a pool a ¼ mile long.
| | |Fine sunt trees.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
26.—ROSEIRES TO ABU SHANEINA BY RIGHT BANK.
BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN, R.E., 1900.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Roseires | — | — |Mamuria, about 50 feet above the
| | |river on one of the steep spurs,
| | |which form the escarpment between
| | |the general level of the country
| | |and the lower river bank. For the
| | |first 2 miles the road winds round
| | |these spurs close to the river.
| | |The road hilly. Then leaving the
| | |river it gets into flat country
| | |with thick thorn bush.
| | |
| 2¾ | 2¾ |Path leads to El Damazin, a small
| | |village on the river (not
| | |visited).
| | |
_Abu Zago_ | 2¾ | 5½ |Village lies to the east of the
| | |road and N. of the khor (not
| | |visited).
| | |
_Khor Abu | 1 | 6½ |A well defined channel 20 yards
Zagoli_ | | |wide, banks 10 feet high, and
| | |steep. Halting place for water 200
| | |yards S. of the khor. Water from
| | |the Nile about 1 mile. Cultivation
| | |at the mouth of the khor. Shelter
| | |tukls at halting place.
| | |
_El Kharaba_ | 3 | 9½ |Three ways lead to the village
| | |which lies E. of the road not
| | |visited. Recognised camping
| | |ground, much overgrown with trees
| | |and little clear space. No tukls,
| | |¼ mile to water. From here to
| | |about the 15th mile the river is
| | |inaccessible, country flat, road
| | |good. At 15 miles it approaches
| | |the river on a high bluff, and
| | |Dakhila can be seen. Thence road
| | |descends and would in the wet
| | |season be very swampy. Thick
| | |jungle.
| | |
_Dakhila_ | 8½ | 18 |Small village of about 30 tukls.
| | |Lies very low and has all the
| | |appearance of being feverish.
| | |
| | |Water supply in the dry season
| | |from a muddy pool in a dried up
| | |channel, bad.
| | |
| | |From Dakhila the road runs W.
| | |following the river, passing the
| | |spurs of J. Maba at about the 22nd
| | |mile, road hilly and stony. After
| | |passing Maba, country is more
| | |open.
| | |
Khor Abu Ge | 7 | 25 |Stony 100 yards wide, banks steep.
| | |
Khor Aiwani | ½ | 25½ |100 yards wide, thickly wooded,
| | |slopes easy.
| | |
_Khor Yabis_ | ½ | 26 |A well defined channel 20 yards
| | |wide, river within easy reach
| | |between Khor Aiwani and Khor
| | |Yabis.
| | |
Khor Yare | 1½ | 27½ |A well defined channel 10 yards
| | |wide.
| | |
_Abu Gemai_ | 1½ | 29 |Rest tukls on high bank commanding
| | |a fine view of the river. Very
| | |good camping ground for small
| | |party. Water close, but road to it
| | |steep. Village of Abu Gemai on
| | |opposite bank, considerable
| | |cultivation. J. Fazogli visible.
| | |
| | |After Abu Gemai the road leaves
| | |the river, and water is not
| | |obtainable for some way.
| | |
Khor Zarifa | 4 | 33 |Very stony, 25 yards wide, said to
| | |rise in J. Dimr, but more probably
| | |in J. Samina. Forms boundary
| | |between Fazogli and Roseires.
| | |
Khor Abu Gerin| 4½ | 37½ |15 yards wide, sandy. About 1
| | |mile, and 2 miles further on are
| | |two small khors and dom palms
| | |begin.
| | |
_Ardeiba_ | 3 | 40½ |Recognised halting place, but
| | |tukls burnt down. Water 200 yards
| | |distant. River narrows to about
| | |150 yards, river bank consisting
| | |of shingle cliffs. Village of
| | |Ardeiba opposite scattered tukls
| | |with little cultivation.
| | |
Khor El | 1½ | 42 |Wide valley ½ mile, well defined
Masella | | |channel in middle.
| | |
_Khor El | 2¼ | 44¼ |Road to Famaka goes straight on,
Ghana_ | | |that to Abu Shaneina turns down
| | |the bed of the khor and leads to
| | |the ferry. Very rough stony
| | |foreshore.
| | |
_Abu Shaneina | ¾ | 45 |One boat capable of taking horses.
Ferry_ | | |Crossing about 300 yards. Village
| | |consists of scattered tukls among
| | |cultivation. Starting place for
| | |most of the caravans to Beni
| | |Shangul and Fadassi. Gold coinage
| | |(native) obtainable, also sheep
| | |and dura. A few donkeys.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
27.—SENGA _viâ_ DURRABA TO UM EL RUG.
BY CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY, MARCH, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Mena | — | — |Opposite to Senga, on R. bank Blue
| | |Nile, Sheikh Adlan, descendant of
| | |Fung Sultans of Sennar Fungs and
| | |Hawazma. Broad well, defined
| | |track, good going.
| | |
_Lueisa_ (on | 15½ | 15½ |Sheikh Ali Wad Idris, El Hamada,
Dinder) | | |and some Ashraf. At Lueisa also
| | |lives Sheikh El Agab, Head Sheikh
| | |of Dinder.
| | |
| | |Track keeps away from river to cut
| | |off bends, direction about S.E.
| | |Cultivation near village.
| | |
Um Saba | 7½ | 23 |Jungle closes in on both sides
| | |track after Kakum.
| | |
Khamisa | 4½ | 27½ |Track well defined, soon after
| | |Khamisa enters bed of river, and
_Abu Hashim_ | 7½ | 35 |comes out again same side.
| | |Cultivation at villages, dura and
| | |semsem.
| | |
El Hagar | — | — |
| | |
_Murafa_ | 7½ | 42½ |Most of villages on Dinder are
| | |near pools, some have to dig for
| | |water in river bed.
| | |
Wad Bashush | 2½ | 45 |Some game seen, oribi, reedbuck,
| | |&c.
| | |
_Durraba_ | 7½ | 52½ |Last inhabited place on Dinder.
| | |
_Meshra | 8 | 60½ |Large pool.
Sherif_ | | |
| | |
„ _Rekeba_ | — | — |Path less clearly defined; black
| | |cotton soil, badly cracked;
„ _Abgir_ | 5½ | 66 |shadeless; tracks and droppings of
| | |elephants abundant from Duraba
| | |whole way up Dinder. After this
| | |see no more people on Dinder.
| | |
_Koka_ | — | — |
| | |
_El Laban_ | — | — |
| | |
_Refadik_ | 12½ | 78½ |All places from Durraba onwards
| | |are only water pools, but were
| | |mostly hellets in old government
| | |days. Water on Dinder excellent
| | |throughout, pools more frequent
| | |higher up river.
| | |
_Wad El Haj_ | 11 | 89½ |After Refadik country looks more
| | |interesting, and good deal of game
| | |seen, ariel plentiful, fresh
| | |elephant and buffalo tracks. From
| | |here a track made by game cuts
| | |across large bend of river for
| | |about 2 miles. The only means of
| | |progress for hamla after this is
| | |in bed of river. Sand heavy, but
| | |suits the camels well.
| | |
_Meshra Gazar_| 5 | 94½ |
| | |
_Khor Gelagu_ | 10½ | 105 |
| | |
„ Masawik | 1½ | 106½ |
| | |
Beit El Wahesh| — | — |
| | |
_El Dueim_ | 7 | 113½ |
| | |
_Semsir_ | 2½ | 116 |Name applies to district around.
| | |
_Um Bilbis_ | 13 | 129 |
| | |
_Um El Rug_ | 4½ | 133½ |In this neighbourhood game is
| | |plentiful, such as elephant,
| | |buffalo, roan, hartebeest, tiang,
| | |ariel reedbuck, ostrich, warthog,
| | |&c. There are also heglig, talh,
| | |kittr, hashab, sunt, kakamot and
| | |suba trees. Forests much damaged
| | |by jungle fires all along Dinder.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
28.—MOUTH OF KHOR GELAGU (DINDER) TO GALLABAT.
BY CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY, MARCH, 1903.
--------------+----------------------+--------------------------------
| Miles. |
+-------------+--------+
Place. | | Total | Description.
|Intermediate.| from |
| |Durraba.|
--------------+-------------+--------+--------------------------------
_Khor Gelagu_ | — | 53½ |A tributary on R. bank of
| | |Dinder, 53½ miles above Durraba.
| | |
| | |Track (made by game) keeps away
| | |from Gelagu on R. bank, going
_Farsh El | — | — |pretty good; woods (not dense)
Ghani_ | | |alternating with large open
| | |plains, covered with high grass,
„ „ _Sanei_ | — | — |called farshes. Ras Amer is a
| | |long shallow lake, the west end
_Maya Ras | 6 | 59½ |about 1 mile from Gelagu (which
Amer_ (west | | |winds very much), at this time
end of) | | |(March) 2 miles long E. and W.
| | |by 150 to 300 yards broad. East
| | |end about 2½ miles from Gelagu.
| | |Open plains; either end of lake
| | |swarming with game, water of
| | |lake very thick and slimy, with
| | |fishy taste owing to millions of
| | |pelicans, geese, &c. Gave
| | |several of our men sore throats.
| | |
Camp | 7½ | 67 |Strike N.N.E. for Rahad (camp on
| | |road), badly cracked cotton
| | |soil, yellow reed grass and
| | |sparsely scattered trees, but no
| | |obstacle to hamla marching in
| | |any direction across country,
| | |provided a couple of men go in
| | |front with axes to lop off
| | |branches.
| | |
_Warre_ | 10½ | 77½ |Strike Rahad at Warre, which
| | |like all places mentioned here
| | |on the Rahad, used to be
| | |flourishing hella in old
| | |government days, but now
| | |absolutely deserted, and nothing
| | |to show that human beings have
Wad Dam | 2½ | 80 |ever been there.
| | |
_Wad Shusha_ | 2½ | 82½ |River winds very much going
| | |alternately in every direction
| | |of compass, but doubtful if any
| | |time saved by marching through
| | |jungle on either bank-bed 50 to
| | |80 yards wide.
| | |
_Araki_ | 6 | 88½ |All these places are on good
| | |pools.
| | |
_Deleib Mugda_| 4 | 92½ | „ „ „
| | |
_El Ebeik_ | 4 | 96½ | „ „ „
| | |
_Wad Arud_ | 5 | 101½ | „ „ „
| | |
_Um Dakin_ | 2½ | 104 | „ „ „
| | |
| | |Bed of river begins to be rocky
| | |in places and going rough and
| | |bad for loaded camels; pools
| | |more numerous, not over 40 yards
| | |wide in most places.
| | |
_Mukleil_ | 5 | 109 |After here, better to march on
| | |R. bank, river bed stony.
| | |
_Meshra Abid_ | 12 | 121 |Soon after M. Abid leave river
| | |and strike N.E. for Gallabat,
| | |soon strike on to track which
| | |goes from Gallabat to Hawata
| | |made by government last year.
| | |This road was made chiefly to
| | |enable cattle owners to take
| | |their cattle down Rahad, but
| | |they all prefer to go _viâ_
| | |Gedaref because of the lions.
| | |The road is used to a small
| | |extent by honey seekers from
| | |Gallabat. Cotton soil badly
| | |cracked.
| | |
_Babikr_ | 28½ | 149½ |No water till Babikr-hella;
| | |consists of several small groups
| | |of huts, cultivation, dukhn,
| | |semsem, cotton, dura.
| | |Inhabitants Takruris, Fors,
| | |Gunjara, &c. Country begins to
| | |be more undulating, red
| | |sandstone, alternating with bad
| | |cotton soil till Gallabat, stony
| | |in parts, bad going for camels.
| | |
_Yunes_ | — | — |Village; well.
| | |
_Basunda_ | 6½ | 156 | „ „
| | |
Kurunkula | — | — |
| | |
_Wallak_ | 14 | 170 |Sheikh of Gallabat and of these
| | |villages—El Sheikh Sheraf
| | |Abdalla. Well.
| | |
_Khor Otruk_ | 9 | 179 |Water in pool in khor.
| | |
Gallabat | 5½ | 184½ |
--------------+-------------+--------+--------------------------------
29.—GALLABAT TO WAD MEDANI, _viâ_ RIVER RAHAD.[17]
BY CAPTAIN C. H. LEWIN, MARCH, 1902.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gallabat | — | — |Route follows that to Gedaref as
| | |far as Khor Otruk.
| | |
_Khor Otruk_ | 6 | 6 |Road here diverges to W., crossing
| | |Khor Yabis. Water in holes in khor
Khor Yabis | ½ | 6½ |to right of track under large
| | |ardeib tree. Road proceeds W. up
| | |valley through some cultivation
| | |passing village of Sultan.
| | |
Sultan | ½ | 7 |Well in course of construction.
| | |Water not yet (March, 1902) found
| | |at 30 feet, but said to be near.
| | |
| | |Road winds on through forest, up
| | |valley, high wooded hills on
| | |either side, crosses spurs and
| | |khors. Owing to loose stones and
| | |steep gradients, camels can only
| | |do 2½ miles an hour.
| | |
Ras El Fil | 3 | 10 |Track passes over low pass close
| | |under this hill, which is highest
| | |point of N. ridge, and descends
| | |gradually to
| | |
_Wallak_ | 2½ | 12½ |Wallak, a scattered village of
| | |Kunjaras, one well 40 feet, fair
| | |water, 2 rakubas, about 5 acres of
| | |cotton, and fair amount of other
| | |cultivation. Road proceeds over
| | |more level and open country, red
| | |gravel soil, and rises to a neck
| | |just S. of Kabushi.
| | |
Jebel Kabushi | 1 | 13½ |A conical grass covered hill. Path
| | |descends sharply to water in
_Water_ | 1 | 14½ |hollow to right of track, but
| | |nearly empty by middle of March.
| | |
_Karnakala_ | ½ | 15 |Village of Kunjaras. About 12
| | |acres of cotton and considerable
| | |amount of other cultivation. Two
| | |wells in khor just under village,
| | |water at 6 feet good and
| | |plentiful. Rakuba by wells under
| | |ardeib tree. The Sheikh Ali Seru
| | |said he was a soldier with Gordon
| | |Pasha.
| | |
| | |Track passes through village,
| | |turning S. just outside for a
| | |short distance.
| | |
| | |Going not too good, stony, and as
| | |path is only used by donkeys, is
| | |narrow for camels, who stumble a
| | |good deal.
| | |
Khor Abu Jamfa| 3 | 18 |Open khor; small amount of water
| | |in holes.
| | |
_Kuka_ | 2 | 20 |Village of Kunjaras. Water comes
| | |out of rock at bottom of deep
| | |rocky khor, which is overhung by
| | |large tebeldi tree of about 10
| | |feet diameter. Road winds S. and
| | |then W. again, passing villages of
| | |Basunda and Yunis at about ½ mile
| | |interval. These draw their water
| | |from a deep rocky khor half way
| | |between Kuka and Basunda. Good
| | |rakubas at all of them.
| | |
_Babikr_ | 6 | 26 |Going improves as this village is
| | |reached. Road still winds through
| | |forest country. Very little water
| | |left in well. Good rakuba. Sheikh
| | |describes this as half-way between
| | |Rahad and Gallabat. Track winds to
| | |S.W. and going becomes very bad
| | |again. Cotton soil, which gives
| | |under camels as they go along.
| | |Track very indistinct in places.
| | |
Domajura | 9 | 35 |Road winds between 2 stony low
| | |hills of this name. On W. side a
| | |well dug in the rock said to have
| | |been made by Sheik Saleh Bey,
| | |formerly of Gallabat. No water
| | |now, and a bad smell emanates from
| | |it.
| | |
Hag Bakhit | 3 | 38 |Track passes over low rocky column
| | |of this name. One mile N.W. is
| | |ruined Deim of brother of Saleh
| | |Bey. It lies on top of hill named
| | |Zurga.
| | |
_Meshra Sirri_| 9 | 47 |Track gradually descends to River
or Abid (?) | | |Rahad passing a few stony
| | |hillocks. Bad going, over cotton
| | |soil all the way. Meshra 2 miles
| | |N. of steep rocky hill Jebel
| | |Surur.
| | |
| | |Good camping ground in zeriba. A
| | |certain number of nomad
| | |inhabitants who come down to fish
| | |appear to make this a halting
| | |place. Water clear, good, and pool
| | |deep. Swarms with fish and
| | |crocodile, and from tracks appear
| | |to be favourite watering place of
| | |much game, including elephant and
| | |lion.
| | |
| | |From Babikr there cannot be said
| | |to be any defined track. The way
| | |is shown by blazed trees and
| | |stumps of trees cut down by
| | |clearing party. The whole way
| | |practically is bad going, both for
| | |camels and donkeys, owing to
| | |rotten black cotton soil. Camels
| | |go at a slow walk only. From Kuka
| | |onwards the route is waterless,
| | |but there are plenty of likely
| | |looking places where water might
| | |be found if wells were dug.
| | |
| | |From Meshra Sirri, route runs
| | |roughly N.W. along right bank of
| | |Rahad, it is marked by blazed
| | |trees here and there. At times
| | |going very bad over cotton soil.
| | |Camels get along with difficulty
| | |at slow walk. Sometimes going is
| | |good, but only for short time.
| | |
_Meshra | 11¾ | 58¾ |Plenty of water in pool; good
Kakamut_ | | |shade; zeriba; banks very steep
| | |down to water and difficult for
| | |camels.
| | |
_Meshra Myat | 1½ | 60¼ |Track rises on to a broad low bank
Bringi_ | | |by riverside, which is evidently
| | |an island when river is in flood.
| | |
_Meshra Ghaba | 2¼ | 62½ |Zeriba, water ¼ mile up stream,
Susa_ | | |small amount, and very green.
| | |
_Bendego_ | 2¾ | 65¼ |Zeriba and meshra. Banks very
| | |steep down to water. Quarter mile
| | |further on the track passes group
| | |of 11 very large tebeldi trees,
| | |one of which has diameter 21 feet.
| | |
_Meshra | 6½ | 71¾ |Zeriba by large tebeldi tree,
tebeldi_ | | |water ¼ mile up stream, very steep
| | |bank and not much shade.
| | |
_Meshra | 3 | 74¾ |Sangafut, an island in stream when
Sangafut_ | | |river is in flood. Pool ¼ mile up
| | |stream. Banks steep down to pool.
| | |Good shade just above. Meshra not
| | |at all apparent from road. Zeriba
| | |can be seen from road, is built on
| | |the bank and is half way between
| | |water and island of Sangafut.
| | |Water plentiful.
| | |
| | |Between this and Ghaba Susa track
| | |passes across several shallow
| | |khors but no water in them.
| | |
_Meshra | 7½ | 82¼ |Half a mile from meshra, and
Deresa_ | | |zeriba track strikes river at spot
| | |where broad belt of long grass
| | |intervenes between it and river
| | |bed. Follows curve of river round
| | |on high ground to zeriba, which is
| | |at a spot on the curve where the
| | |river is running from N.E. to S.W.
| | |Very steep path down to water
| | |immediately to W. end of zeriba,
| | |which was impossible for camels,
| | |but one just possible ¼ mile E. of
| | |zeriba. Water plentiful in pool
| | |and good. From here on trees
| | |decrease in size and become less
| | |dense. Guide said this was
| | |formerly a large village and a
| | |battalion was stationed here,
| | |which was cut up by Abyssinians 35
| | |or 40 years ago. The place was
| | |destroyed by Dervishes. The town
| | |was ½ mile N.W. of meshra and
| | |zeriba. Several lions heard here.
| | |
_Wad Betul_ | 2½ | 84¾ |Meshra, no zeriba, road
| | |immediately above stream, and
| | |country much more open here. From
| | |here blazing of trees is
| | |discontinued, and direction has to
| | |be kept (1902) by compass and
| | |stream. Rate of progress cannot be
| | |reckoned at more than 2 miles per
| | |hour.
| | |
_Khor Semsem_ | 7½ | 92¼ |Broad shelving grass-grown khor
| | |running in direction from N.E. to
| | |S.W. runs into river here. Bad
| | |meshra just N.W. of it, little
| | |shade, and very steep banks. Water
| | |green. 1½ miles from Semsem the
| | |river bed widens and becomes
| | |muddy—until now it has always been
| | |sandy—very good grass grows on the
| | |part from which water has receded.
| | |
Island (name | 3 | 95¼ |River doubles back and runs nearly
unknown) | | |S.E. and flows round an island.
| | |Track follows several broad and
| | |very grassy and bushy khors which
| | |caused wide détours.
| | |
| 2¼ | 97½ |Good spot for camp immediately
| | |above a large pool. Banks steep
| | |and thickly wooded, though
| | |immediate site of camp clear.
| | |
| | |The island seems to come to an end
| | |about ¼ mile further down stream.
| | |From here the track becomes plain
| | |again, the tree felling and
| | |blazing is regular and
| | |systematical, and easily followed.
| | |Going improves and camels can
| | |occasionally trot. Country becomes
| | |more open and track crosses
| | |several shallow khors.
| | |
_Meshra | 6 | 103½ |Track strikes river at a broad re-
Abrakuba_ | | |entrant bend. Plentiful supply of
| | |water and gently shelving banks
| | |easy for any animals to water.
| | |Good camping and grazing ground by
| | |the river.
| | |
_Shammam_ | — | — |A small tukl village of Dinka
| | |colonists. Sheikh Dik Malek. Is
| | |situated to left of track on
| | |rising ground among trees above
| | |river. Dura cultivation shows its
| | |presence at some distance from the
| | |track, from which it is itself
| | |invisible. Poor supplies; a little
| | |dura was obtained after some
| | |difficulty. Water good and
| | |plentiful.
| | |
| | |From here track bends inland from
| | |river crossing the shallow khors
| | |of Wad Bikr and Malwia. The track
| | |is indistinct and hard to follow
| | |owing to clearing having been done
| | |in most erratic fashion. Camels
| | |have to proceed at a walk. After
| | |7½ miles track, strikes the river
| | |again, which is dry here, and is
| | |running round a large island,
| | |Geziret Fatna. Two miles further
| | |on comes
| | |
_Meshra | 9½ | 119 |A large shallow pool rapidly
Geziret Fatna_| | |drying up. Track runs along this
| | |pool for about 1 mile over rough
| | |going where the two branches of
| | |the river round Geziret Fatna re-
| | |unite and track strikes N. and
| | |then trends round to river again,
| | |striking it at Wad El Kashedi.
| | |
_Wad El | 2½ | 121½ |A good pool, but banks steep,
Kashedi_ | | |looks as if an old canal formerly
| | |ran into river from W. Jebel
| | |Mogadad appears in distance in E.
| | |direction. Going still bad. Cotton
| | |soil, but fewer trees.
| | |
| | |Track follows close to river bank,
| | |water occasionally in pools, but
| | |banks steep. Two miles from Hawata
| | |track improves and enters belt of
| | |trees through which it is well
| | |cleared. Some cultivation about in
| | |cleared patches.
| | |
Hawata | 7½ | 129 |Fair-sized tukl village of
| | |Hamadas. Fair supplies and good
| | |pool of water immediately beside
| | |village. Track from here improves
| | |greatly. It is well cleared and
| | |camels can trot. The journey from
| | |Gallabat to Hawata cut the feet of
| | |4 out of 5 camels so badly that
| | |they were unable to proceed
| | |further. Between Meshra Sirri and
| | |Hawata game very plentiful.
| | |Numerous tracks of elephants;
| | |lions were heard each night.
| | |Giraffe seen twice. Ariel
| | |frequently seen in enormous herds
| | |of over 100. North of Hawata no
| | |more lions or elephants, and ariel
| | |became scarce. I saw natives
| | |coursing gazelle, and they say
| | |they hunt a good deal.
| | |
_Girbu_ | 2 | 131 |From Hawata, track winds through
| | |trees and long grass to small tukl
| | |village on river bank with some
| | |scattered tukls further on.
| | |Country opens out into large grass
| | |plains dotted with bushes and
| | |clumps of trees.
| | |
_Nuwar_ | 8 | 139 |A small tukl village to left of
| | |track some way back from river.
| | |Jebel Beila at right angles to
| | |track, N.E.
| | |
_Wadi Nagami_ | 3 | 142 |A new tukl village of Hamadas
| | |rapidly springing up. Over 30
| | |tukls already built. People said
| | |to be returning from khors and
| | |jebels round. A few sheep, no
| | |camels.
| | |
_Mafasa_ | 1 | 143 |Another rapidly increasing village
| | |of Hamadas. Signs of old tukls
| | |shown. There are now over 30 new
| | |ones.[18] Sheep and oxen, but no
| | |camels. About ¼ mile from river. A
| | |little dura cultivated. From here,
| | |track passes through grass plains
| | |and trees for 3 miles, and then
| | |gets into thick bush country for
| | |another 3 miles, rising slowly the
| | |whole time till it suddenly
| | |emerges on top of cleared, broken,
_Abraham_ | 6 | 149 |and hillocky ground, from which it
| | |descends sharply into and crosses
| | |the river bed which is dry here.
| | |After crossing the river track
| | |turns S.W. following round S. edge
| | |of a dry shallow branch of the
| | |river, which is lined thickly on
| | |either bank by good-sized trees
| | |through which path winds and
| | |gradually works round to N.E.
| | |direction.
| | |
_Muttu_ | 5 | 154 |Meshra and various shifting tukl
| | |villages, some inhabited, some
| | |deserted. People appear to come
| | |here to build tukls before the
| | |rains begin, sow and reap dura on
| | |open spaces between the trees, and
| | |then move on. From here track is
| | |well defined though crossed by
| | |numerous other tracks. Trees,
| | |except on immediate river bank,
| | |cease.
| | |
_Karakeila_ | ¾ | 154¾ |Meshra, track to it branches off
| | |to right.
| | |
_Abbas_ | 4½ | 159¼ |Meshra, invisible from the path.
| | |Good pool and shade; from this,
| | |track resumes N.W. direction.
| | |
_Bir el Gamal_| 16¾ | 176 |Road forks here into an eye shape.
| | |Good meshra and distinct road down
| | |to it. It is under high trees
| | |which show on N. side of track on
| | |river bank about ¼ mile off.
| | |
Ghabat | 4½ | 180½ |Deserted tukl village of 40 huts.
| | |Jebel Arang is sighted bearing
| | |N.E.
| | |
| 5 | 185½ |A track turns off N.E. to Jebel
| | |Arang, and one bears to left
| | |running direct to Hafar. Main
| | |track leads on to Meshra Kheiari.
| | |
_Meshra | 6½ | 192 |A good meshra with fair shade.
Kheiari_ | | |Meshra El Gelma at 191½ mile found
| | |dry. Large numbers of camels about
| | |here grazing. From here, track to
| | |Wad Medani leaves Rahad and runs
| | |nearly due W. on leaving the
| | |river, trees and shrubs soon cease
| | |and cotton soil plain is crossed
| | |to Kheiari a deserted village of
| | |about 40 tukls; a deep well of
| | |about 6 feet diameter has been
| | |dug, but is now dry. Track
| | |continues W. over plain, ground
| | |rising slightly to Hafar.
| | |
_Hafeira_ | 4½ | 196½ |Large tukl village over 100 tukls
| | |all well built. Inhabited by
| | |different tribes: Jaalin (few)
| | |Hawazma, Rufaa. One well supplies
| | |whole village, 72 feet deep and
| | |about 6 feet wide, very good water
| | |in it. Said never to run dry. Few
| | |cattle and sheep and other
| | |supplies. Like all other places
| | |between this and Gedaref it was
| | |laid waste by Ahmed Fedil on his
| | |march to join the Khalifa.
| | |
| | |From Hafar track runs W. over
| | |cotton soil, is clearly marked.
| | |Clumps of trees and bushes in
| | |places.
| | |
Shebaga | 14 | 210½ |Small tukl village, few
| | |inhabitants.
| | |
_Alarebab_ | 9 | 219½ |Track strikes Blue Nile about 1
| | |mile N. of Alarebab, and opposite
Wad Medani | ½ | 220 |Wad Medani. Ferry across to left
| | |bank.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
30.—ITINERARY OF BLUE NILE—KHARTOUM TO FAZOGLI.
BY CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY, MARCH, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Khartoum | — | — |Up to Soba, cultivation good on
| | |both banks, though confined to a
| | |narrow strip—Sakias numerous.
| | |
Buri | 3 | 3 |L.
| | |
Kuku | 1½ | 4½ |R.
| | |
El Gereif | 2 | 6½ |Island here at low Nile.
| | |
Karkoj | 1¼ | 7¾ |R.
| | |
Um Dom Island | 2 | 9¾ |½ mile above the island are the
| | |hillas of Um Dom R. and El Hagirat
| | |L.
| | |
Soba | 4 | 13¾ |On the R. are the ruins of the
| | |capital of the once flourishing
| | |kingdom of Alwa; on the L. a small
| | |village. Soba is the name of the
| | |district on both sides of the
| | |river, and continues to Soba El
| | |Taib a village 3 miles further S.
| | |on the R. bank.
| | |
Butri | 4 | 17¾ |Two villages of this name L. the
| | |other is 1 mile further N. From
| | |here on for many miles the
| | |character of the country does not
| | |change. The eastern bank is
| | |covered with thick, low thorn
| | |jungle, while the western bank is
| | |open and sandy, very little scrub
| | |and half grass. There are patches
| | |of cultivation round the villages,
| | |and when the water falls, a narrow
| | |strip by the foreshore of the
| | |river is cultivated with heavy
| | |crops of dura, lubia, sesame,
| | |melons, and vegetables. Some of
| | |the islands also are under
| | |cultivation.
| | |
Eilafun | 3 | 20¾ |Wood station and village L., a
| | |track leads from here to Geili
| | |about 75 miles. About ¼ mile
| | |inland on the L. is the Government
| | |rest house of Sabil.
| | |
Dueikhla | 1½ | 22¼ |R.
| | |
Bageir | ¼ | 22½ |L.
| | |
Bageir Sharg | 2½ | 25 |R.
| | |
Bageir | 1 | 26 |L. Another small village of the
| | |same name.
| | |
El Shereig | 2 | 28 |R.
| | |
El Gedid | 1½ | 29½ |L. First of three villages of same
| | |name extending for 1½ miles S.
| | |Cultivation round the villages.
| | |
Awag El Darb | 3¼ | 32¾ |L. Between here and Masadia, a
| | |short distance inland on R. bank
| | |is the village of Sheikh El Obeid.
| | |
Masadia | 2½ | 35¼ |L.
| | |
El Nuba | 2½ | 37¾ |L. Largish village ½ mile from
| | |river.
| | |
Mahas Island, | ¾ | 38½ |
N. end | | |
| | |
Mahas, S. end | 2¼ | 40¾ |
| | |
Maid | 1 | 41¾ |Large village L. with Rest house
| | |on river bank and large mosque.
| | |
Alti | 1½ | 43¾ |L.
| | |
El Nur | 1 | 44¼ |L.
| | |
Um Magad | 3¾ | 48 |L.
| | |
El Tikena | 2 | 50 |
| | |
Bishagra | 1½ | 51½ |Villages L. and R. The one on L.
Island | | |large with three mosques. Former
| | |Dervish depôt and powder factory.
| | |
Fogur | 1 | 52½ |L. Small village.
| | |
Eidag | 1¼ | 53¾ |R.
| | |
Takela | ¾ | 54½ |L.
| | |
Sayal | ½ | 55 |R.
| | |
Wad El Turabi | 3 | 58 |L.
| | |
Wad Esheib | 1½ | 59½ |R.
| | |
Belula | ¾ | 60¼ |L.
Kasembar | | |
| | |
Kalkol | 1¾ | 64½ |L. Opposite S. end of island of
| | |same name.
| | |
_Kamlin_ | 2½ | 64½ |L. Head quarters of the Blue Nile
| | |Province, a large and growing
| | |village with market place, post
| | |and telegraph offices, and a good
| | |rest house in a grove of date
| | |palms at N. end of village.
| | |Inhabitants Jaalin and Danagla.
| | |More cultivation from here S.
| | |Country also much more wooded.
| | |Rest house.
| | |
Metemma | 1½ | 66 |R. 1 mile inland. The road on the
| | |R. bank to Rufaa goes inland _viâ_
| | |the villages of Metemma, Branko
| | |and Deim.
| | |
Hamed El Nil | 5½ | 71½ |
| | |
Branko | ½ | 72 |Some way inland R.
| | |
Um Degersi | ½ | 72½ |L. Two villages close together.
| | |
Abd El Magdi | 1 | 73½ |L.
| | |
Helalia | 2 | 75½ |R. Large village.
| | |
Abu El Ashr | 1½ | 77 |L. Helawin district commences
| | |here.
| | |
Bueida Island | 3½ | 100½ |
| | |
Hegeir | 3 | 103½ |R.
| | |
Wad Abu Furur | 3½ | 107 |L. Large village with Government
| | |Rest house. R. bank wooded.
| | |
_Hassa Hisa_ | 4¾ | 111¾ |L. Commonly called Hassai, largish
| | |village, the direction of the
| | |river after this is N.E. to Rufaa.
| | |Hassai and Rufaa being at the
| | |points of the curves of the S.
| | |known as the Rufaa bend. Rest
| | |house.
| | |
Rufa’a | 5 | 116¾ |R. Wood station. Former grain
| | |stores. Ali Wad Abu Sin, and Wakil
| | |el Amin Abu Sin, SS. Alla Hemrab
| | |L. Rufa’a is said to be the second
| | |largest town on the Blue Nile. It
| | |stands some little way back from
| | |the river, and is a fairly
| | |populous place. Its inhabitants
| | |are a branch of the Shukria tribe
| | |of Arabs, and call themselves
| | |Rufaa-Shukria. Good crops are
| | |raised on the foreshore and
| | |islands in the vicinity, and
| | |melons are cultivated, upon an
| | |extensive scale on the flats up-
| | |stream of the town. The river here
| | |is very wide and shallow, and
| | |navigation in summer is extremely
| | |difficult.
| | |
Amara | 2 | 118¾ |
| | |
Abid | 1 | 119¾ |L.
| | |
Ereibab | 4 | 122¼ |R. About 1½ miles inland.
| | |
Wad Belal | 4½ | 126¾ |L.
| | |
Fadassi | 4 | 130¾ |L. Large village and Rest house.
| | |Good garden on river bank
| | |belonging to Omda of village.
| | |
Fadassi Amrab | 2 | 132¾ |L.
| | |
Tayiba | 3 | 135¾ |L.
| | |
Hamid El Nil | 1½ | 137¼ |R.
| | |
Abu Haraz | 1½ | 138¾ |Starting place of caravan road to
| | |Gedaref.
| | |
Abu Ushur | ¾ | 139½ |R. Mouth of River Rahad. Water
| | |differs little from that of Blue
| | |Nile; rather more vegetable
| | |organic matter. Jungle begins both
| | |banks. This river, which rises in
| | |the N.W. slopes of the Abyssinian
| | |mountains, brings down a large
| | |volume of water when in flood. It
| | |enters the Nile at an angle of
| | |70°, and its bed in February was 3
| | |feet higher than the water surface
| | |of the Blue Nile at that time. The
| | |Rahad, with the exception of a few
| | |pools, is dry for many months of
| | |the year. Its banks at the
| | |junction are steep and high, quite
| | |39 feet over the bed, which has a
| | |width of 71 yards. The flood-marks
| | |show that the rise of the Rahad is
| | |from 15 to 19 feet in height. The
| | |Blue Nile at this junction forms
| | |an “S” curve, taking a sharp bend
| | |to the W., and again another to
| | |the E. Its width, is measured, 595
| | |yards. The banks of the Rahad
| | |River are covered with thick and
| | |dense jungle, as are both banks of
| | |the Blue Nile in this reach.
| | |Shortly before Wad Medani is
| | |reached, the W. bank becomes open
| | |again, but the forest on the E.
| | |bank is continuous.
| | |
Wad Medani | 5 | 144½ |L. Large and flourishing town,
| | |largest in Sudan after Omdurman.
| | |Head quarters of Sennar Province.
| | |Post and telegraph offices. A few
| | |European shops and good market.
| | |Civil population about 30,000.
| | |Soil limestone with sand and
| | |gravel—healthy; Mosque with high
| | |tower. Country S. of Wad Medani
| | |becomes thick jungle especially on
| | |E. bank.
| | |
| | |From Wad Medani the shortest road
| | |to Sennar leaves the river and
| | |goes inland by Sariba, Wad Shenan,
| | |&c., meeting the river again at
| | |Danagila.
| | |
Goz El Fil | 5 | 149½ |On island.
| | |
Ereibab | 1 | 150½ |
| | |
Kurdugeili | 5 | 155½ |
| | |
Ganneb | 6½ | 162 |L. About 1¼ miles from R. bank is
| | |Shabarga, the nearest point to R.
| | |Rahad at H. Sherif Yakub; about 7
| | |miles across.
| | |
Bagadi | 2 | 164 |L. Large village.
| | |
Abd El Karim | 6½ | 170½ |R.
| | |
_H. Sherif | 1¼ | 171¾ |L. Rest house.
Desis Yusef_ | | |
| | |
Doliba | 1¾ | 173½ |L.
| | |
El Beriab | 4½ | 178 |L. Large village on river bank in
| | |open ground. Supplies plentiful.
| | |
Mouth of River| 2 | 180 |Larger and more important river
Dinder | | |than Rahad. Breadth at mouth 120
| | |yards (_see_ page 114, Vol. I).
| | |
Hamed | 6 | 186 |L. Three miles inland is the large
| | |village of Shukaba.
| | |
Abu Sogra | 6¾ | 192¾ |L.
| | |
_Danagila_ | 5½ | 198¼ |L. Distant from Wad Medani by
| | |direct road 31½ miles. Rest house.
| | |
Santobar | 2 | 200¼ |L.
| | |
Banat | 2 | 202¼ |L.
| | |
Barsi El Fadl | 2¼ | 204½ |R.
| | |
Wad El Dai | 3 | 207½ |L.
| | |
Wad El Haddad | ½ | 208 |L.
| | |
_Wad El Abbas_| 6½ | 214½ |R. Rest house.
| | |
_Meshra El | 5 | 219½ |L. Rest house.
Hagirat_ | | |
| | |
Habbania | 1 | 220½ |L.
| | |
Shambata | 5 | 225½ |R.
| | |
Deim El | 5½ | 231 |L.
Mashaikh | | |
| | |
Sharif | 1½ | 232½ |R.
| | |
Sennar | 2½ | 235 |L. Now in ruins and deserted, old
| | |mosque with high tower still
| | |standing. _Vide_ Vol. I. Rest
| | |house at Kabush.
| | |
Abu Geili | — | — |
| | |
Kassab El Amin| 9 | 244 |R. Opposite large island.
| | |
_Shekh Talha_ | 6½ | 250½ |R. Rest house.
| | |
Ereidiba | 2 | 252½ |R.
| | |
Ereidiba | 2½ | 255 |L. About 2 miles inland—large
| | |village.
| | |
_Abdin_ | 4 | 259 |L. Rest house.
| | |
Abu Shoka | 3 | 262 |
| | |
Dakhla Shellal| 7 | 269 |L.
| | |
Rammash | 8 | 277 |L.
| | |
Mena Yusef | 6 | 283 |R.
| | |
Wad El Ghazali| 2 | 285 |L.
| | |
_Senga_ | 2 | 287 |L. Headquarters of a District and
| | |Detachment of Regular Troops here.
| | |Rest house.
| | |
Mena | 1 | 288 |R. People: Fungs and Hawazma; the
| | |sheikh Adlan is the descendant of
| | |the Fung sultans of Sennar. From
| | |here a direct road goes to Lueisa
| | |on the R. Dinder, distance about
| | |16 miles.
| | |
El Gazair | 6½ | 294½ |R.
| | |
Brodras | 7½ | 302 |R.
| | |
_Karkoj_ | 5 | 307 |R. Rest house. A large straggling
| | |village, surrounded by bush and
| | |tall grass. It is close to the
| | |river, the banks of which are
| | |steep. Inhabitants very poor and
| | |of various tribes:—Kongeri,
| | |Ashraf, Moghrabi, Kamatir, Jaalin
| | |and Agalin. Village on high
| | |ground, with small khors at
| | |intervals running into the river.
| | |Soil, limestone mixed with sand
| | |and alluvium—subsoil 9 to 10 feet
| | |from surface. Three small springs
| | |of clear water appear at south end
| | |of village, and reach the surface
| | |of the steep bank 9 feet from the
| | |top. On the L. bank in Nov. there
| | |is a large stagnant lagoon, which
| | |probably increases the
| | |unhealthiness of the site.
| | |
| | |One hundred and ten hours by steam
| | |from Khartoum.
| | |
| | |Karkoj used to be an important
| | |trading centre in the old days for
| | |gum arabic, tamarinds, cattle,
| | |cotton, coffee (from Abyssinia),
| | |vegetables, &c. This used to be
| | |the last place where one could lay
| | |in stores for further travel.
| | |
| | |The river here is at high Nile 470
| | |yards broad, average depth 23
| | |feet, current 5 miles per hour; at
| | |low Nile the figures are 330
| | |yards, 8 feet, and 1¼ miles
| | |respectively.
| | |
| | |Surroundings bare. Woods, chiefly
| | |acacia, &c., begin at some
| | |distance off.
| | |
| | |(Marno took 25 days in a nugger
| | |from Khartoum to this point, in
| | |February.)
| | |
| | |The Upper Sennar negro race, the
| | |Hameg, now begin to populate both
| | |banks; a dirty, indolent race.
| | |
| | |From Karkoj upwards both banks are
| | |highly cultivated and fertile, but
| | |only on the narrow strip which is
| | |liable to inundation at flood
| | |time. Camels become gradually
| | |replaced by donkeys and oxen. Too
| | |damp for horses; many mosquitos
| | |and poisonous flies (_serút_).
| | |Much rough cloth woven.
| | |
| | |Track on R. bank lies through
| | |cultivation and occasional thick
| | |woods.
| | |
_Seiru_ | 3 | 310 |L. Rest house.
| | |
Zumorka | 6 | 316 |R.
| | |
Lanni | 1 | 317 |L.
| | |
_Abu Tiga_ | 10½ | 327½ |R. On main track from Karkoj to
| | |Roseires. Rest house.
| | |
Barankwa | ½ | 328 |L. Swarms of birds in autumn.
| | |Water channel 700 yards.
| | |
_Abu Naama_ | 1½ | 329½ |L. Rather less vegetation; soil
| | |contains much iron peroxide.
| | |Reported immune from fever. Rest
| | |house.
| | |
Rumeila | 3 | 332½ |L.
| | |
Tangaru | 1½ | 334 |L. El Lakandi R.
| | |
_Regeiba_ | 6 | 340 |L. Rest house.
| | |
_Bunzoga_ | 8½ | 348½ |R. Boat building yard (?). Two
| | |miles before this the Khor El
| | |Malwai comes on L., and a track
| | |goes from there to J. Gule. Rest
| | |house.
| | |
H. Sherif | 24 | 372½ |R. Well-known point on river.
Ahmed | | |Cultivation considerable.
| | |
_Bados_ | 11 | 383½ |R. Rest house.
| | |
_El Gereif_ | 7 | 390½ |R. Village up a back-water. Broad
| | |conspicuous belt of dom palms
| | |begins, and continues along ridge
| | |to Roseires. Rest house.
| | |
El Karori | 2½ | 393 |R. On L. is mouth of Khor Dunia.
| | |
Abu Ramad | 9 | 402 |L.
| | |
_Roseires_[19]| 3 | 405 |R. End of telegraph. Headquarters
| | |of a District and residence of
| | |British Inspector; small garrison,
| | |post and telegraph offices. Old
| | |Roseires lies 3 miles further
| | |north. Hilly ground, thick dom
| | |palms along banks. Mimosa woods to
| | |the E. Plenty of game.
| | |Obstructions in the river begin
| | |some miles before here, and this
| | |is the limit of navigation for
| | |steamers or boats. About 2 miles
| | |south begin the Roseires
| | |cataracts. Malarial fever prevails
| | |during October and November. The
| | |soil here is composed of alluvium
| | |overlying granite, in which the
| | |quartz and mica are small-grained,
| | |evenly distributed throughout,
| | |with a minimum of felspar. Less
| | |frequently the blocks are of large
| | |grained quartz, combined with
| | |felspar. The granite has been
| | |extensively disintegrated.
| | |
_Abu Zoghali_ | 8 | 413 |R. Mouth of khor of same name.
| | |Rest house.
| | |
_El Dakhla_ | 11 | 424 |R. Best camping ground is where
| | |hospital was established after
| | |fight with Ahmed Fedil, 25th
| | |December, 1898. The village is
| | |over a mile from the river inland.
| | |Village Iwan marked on map is
| | |deserted. Latter part of road is
| | |thick jungle, and several deep
| | |khors intersect the path. Rest
| | |house.
| | |
_Abu Gemai_ | 12½ | 436½ |L. Abu Gemai, village on W. bank,
| | |about 20 people. Rest house.
| | |Sheikh el Imam Ramadan. Open road
| | |the greater part of the way, but
| | |there are several deep khors
| | |bounded by thick jungle. In 11th
| | |mile you come to watering place,
| | |Ardeiba.
| | |
Ardeiba | 11 | 447½ |R. Watering place.
| | |
_Abu Sheneina_| 3½ | 451 |L. Abu Sheneina, a village on W.
| | |bank, about 200 people; Sheikh Abd
| | |el Wahid Abu Shenein. Rest house.
| | |
Famaka | 9 | 460 |R. The latter part of road is very
| | |rough indeed, going over shoulder
| | |of J. Fazogli; very steep and
| | |rocky about 2 to 3 miles.
| | |
Fazogli | 1 | 461 |L. Easy path.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
[Footnote 10: No water here, January, 1901.]
[Footnote 11: There is now (1904) a colony of Baggara Arabs who were
sent to this district after the fall of Omdurman (1893).]
[Footnote 12: This road has recently been straightened and improved.]
[Footnote 13: Not the same as Durraba on the Dinder.]
[Footnote 14: This report is on the old route. The new route at times
follows the old one and at times the telegraph line, but the watering
places are the same on both routes.]
[Footnote 15: On the 28th March, 1902, there were only a few inches
of water in the well, and it took an hour to water 13 camels, using
2 girbas.—(Bonham-Carter).]
[Footnote 16: Uninhabited in March, 1902 (Bonham-Carter).]
[Footnote 17: Some of the names in this report will probably be
unknown to many guides.]
[Footnote 18: Mafasa has rapidly developed, and now (1904) is about
to be made the Head-Quarters of a District.]
[Footnote 19: Rest houses on left bank between Regeiba and Roseires
are at M. Gurra, Moya Ahmar, Abkok, and El Disa; on right bank,
between El Gereif and Roseires, at Magangani.]
CHAPTER V.
(CENTRAL SUDAN.)
* * * * *
31.—KHARTOUM TO WAD MEDANI, SENNAR, SENGA, AND KARKOJ, UP LEFT
BANK OF BLUE NILE.
COMPILED FROM REPORTS BY MAJOR DE ROUGEMONT AND CAPTAIN
H. F. S. AMERY.
_Corrected up to_ 1904.
Between Khartoum and Wad Medani there are rest houses at the following
places: Sabil, Masid, Kamlin, Hassa Hisa and Mesellemia; these places
are on an average about 18 miles apart. The fee per night payable
to the Sheikh in charge is 5 P.T., in return for which an angarib,
zeer and water are provided. Eggs, milk, fowls, &c., are generally
procurable, but these are of course not included in the 5 P.T.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Khartoum | — | — |The road passes over an open plain
(Palace) | | |after leaving the old line of
| | |fortifications (gate 1 mile from
| | |palace), passing Buri District,
| | |comprising 3 villages, to the
| | |left; then through Gereif
| | |district; 7 villages, population
| | |about 1,000; opposite third
| | |village the road is ½ mile from
| | |river; road runs over flat open
| | |plain; cultivation—dura, cotton,
| | |dukhn, and vegetables in small
| | |quantities round each village. A
| | |track also leads straight to the
| | |Sabil Rest house, by following
Um Dom Island | — | — |which about 1 mile is saved.
| | |
_Meshra El | 7½ | 7½ |Not inhabited.
Hagar or | | |
Hageirat_ | | |
| | |
| | |Road passes in straight line from
| | |Khartoum to Meshra El Hagar or
| | |Hageirat; at this point it meets
| | |the river; excellent watering
| | |place only, no village. The
| | |village of Um Dom (R.) is exactly
| | |opposite Meshra El Hagar.
| | |
_Soba_ | 4 | 11½ |A small village of tukls on the R.
| | |bank. Fourteen miles from Khartoum
| | |there is good watering place, no
| | |grazing.
| | |
_El Sabil_ | 6 | 17½ |Rest house. No village.
| | |
_El Bageir_ | 1½ | 19 |On river bank, 1½ miles from road,
| | |population 200. Through Sabil Kasm
| | |El Sid District; signs of ruined
| | |village on side of road, from
| | |which Eilafun can be seen, bearing
| | |55°.
| | |
_Goz Shereig_ | — | — |On R. bank.
| | |
_Gedid_ | 7 | 26 |Population 1,000; cultivation
| | |round villages (3). Track passes
| | |over barren treeless plain to
| | |
_Masudia_ | 5½ | 31½ |Village on River, population 500;
| | |cultivation between village and
| | |river.
| | |
_Nuba_ | 2¼ | 33¾ |A large village, mud houses,
| | |population 1,000; good
| | |cultivation. Encamped ½ mile south
| | |of Nuba.
| | |
_El Masid_ | 5 | 38¾ |Rest house. Road still through
| | |open plain. No cultivation between
| | |Nuba and Masid, nor at latter.
| | |Inhabitants cultivate opposite
| | |bank. Large village with mosque.
| | |
_Alti_ | 1 | 39¾ |A straggling village ¾ mile long,
| | |population 1,500; bank of river
| | |cultivated.
| | |
_Um Magad_ | 3 | 42¾ |Village ½ mile long, population
| | |300.
| | |
_El Tikeina_ | 1¾ | 44½ |Population 200. Encamped in open
| | |plain ½ mile south of village;
| | |good watering place; no grazing.
| | |
_Bishagra El | 2 | 46½ |Large village, 3 mosques. Bishagra
Gharbi_ | | |El Sharki on opposite bank.
| | |
_Fadl El | 1 | 47½ |A small village on river bank,
Fogur_ | | |population 150.
| | |
_El Takela_ | 2¼ | 49¾ |Straggling village, population
| | |800, ½ mile from road on bank of
| | |river. Traces of rain cultivation.
| | |Another village on right of road,
| | |1 mile further south, also called
| | |El Takela.
| | |
_Wad El | 2¾ | 52½ |A large village, with large
Turabi_ | | |mosque, ½ mile from river. There
| | |is a small village on river bank
| | |under trees (mimosa). Rain-
| | |cultivated dura commences on right
| | |of road. Plenty of cultivation on
| | |river bank.
| | |
_Kasembar_ | 2½ | 55 |A small village of Kamlin
| | |district, ¼ mile from road,
| | |population 200. The road now
| | |enters the Kamlin district, which
| | |stretches as far as Abu El Ashr.
| | |
_El Heleila_ | 1 | 56 |A small village of Kamlin district
| | |1¼ mile left of road, population
| | |200.
| | |
_Kalkol_ | — | — |Same as El Heleila. A thick grove
| | |of Dom palms close to village.
| | |
_Kamlin_ | 2½ | 58½ |A large village, population 1,500,
| | |with thin grove of date palms on
| | |north side with rest house. Market
| | |place, dura obtainable. There are
| | |government farms and old ruined
| | |indigo factory. A good camping
| | |ground on south side of village.
| | |The road to Kamlin is quite
| | |suitable for wheel traffic. The
| | |inhabitants of Kamlin seem
| | |prosperous. The Gezira seems well
| | |supplied with grass. The road now
| | |passes through more cultivation;
| | |rain-cultivation dura on both
| | |sides of road. Head Quarters of
| | |Blue Nile Province (P.T.O.).
| | |
_Um Degersi_ | 6½ | 65 |Two small villages, population
| | |700, 1 mile east of road; nearly
| | |all straw tukls. Near here another
| | |small village on bank Abd El
| | |Magdi, population 200; river
| | |cultivation. One mile south on
| | |right bank of river is the large
| | |village of Helalia.
| | |
_Abu El Ashr_ | 3 | 68½ |A large village on river bank.
| | |Here commences Halawin district
| | |(includes Abu El Ashr), population
| | |600; mud houses. Road passes
| | |through open woody country.
| | |
_El Talbab_ | 3¼ | 71¾ |Two miles from river, population
| | |1,000. Mud houses. The road
| | |continues through the Halawin
| | |district, comprising some 64
| | |villages inland. Cultivation by
| | |rain.
| | |
_Um Haboba_ | 3¼ | 75 |Commonly called by the natives the
| | |Geneinat El Halawin; excellent
| | |camping ground, garden, excellent
| | |grazing, date palms, lemon trees
| | |in garden. The road now passes
| | |through somewhat thick mimosa
| | |jungle to plain covered with thorn
| | |scrub.
| | |
_Wad Abu | 3 | 78 |Rest house. A large village, ¼
Ferugha_ | | |mile from road on left, population
(Furur?) | | |800. A few dom palms and grazing
| | |(indifferent) along bank. Opposite
| | |bank well wooded, inhabitants
| | |depend on rain cultivation.
| | |
_Debeba_ | 2 | 80 |A long straggling village, 1
| | |mosque, a few sunt trees. An
| | |island called Debeba in front of
| | |village. Bearing from north end of
| | |village to Rufaa 110°, about 3
| | |miles off on right bank.
| | |
Wad El Ramil | ½ | 80½ |A small village east of road.
| | |Bearing to Rufaa 90°. Road passes
| | |through open plain.
| | |
_Hassa Hisa_ | 2 | 82½ |Two large sunt trees, one at north
or _Hassai_ | | |end, one at south end. Fair size
| | |village at the apex of the bend of
| | |the river, mostly tukls. One and a
| | |quarter miles further on are two
| | |very large acacia trees; road
| | |open. The river here makes a sharp
| | |south bend, Rufaa being about 3
| | |miles north-east from here on R.B.
| | |There is a telegraph office at
| | |Rufaa.
| | |
| | |In the bend opposite Rufaa are
| | |several villages, chief being El
| | |Amara, which is the Head Quarters
| | |of the Mamur of Mesellemia
| | |District.
| | |
_Wad El Fadui_| 5 | 87½ |Road leaves El Amara to the left
| | |and strikes the river again near
| | |Wad El Fadui.
| | |
_El Akura_ | 4 | 911 |Conspicuous palms near river’s
| | |edge. Rain cultivation all along
| | |road and inland.
| | |
_Grigrib_ | 3 | 94½ |Small Halawin village. Old
| | |Mesellemia now mostly in ruins,
| | |lies about 4 miles south-west
| | |inland from here.
| | |
_Fadasi_ | 1¾ | 96¼ |Large village. Inhabitants chiefly
| | |Rekabia Halimab. Omda is Sheikh El
| | |Nazir Yusef. Rest house. From here
| | |track passes through dura
| | |cultivation whole way to Wad
| | |Medani.
| | |
_Fadasi El | 1¾ | 98 |Palms and good deal of bush along
Amara_ | | |river bank.
| | |
_Wad | 10 | 108 |Head Quarters of Sennar Province
Medani_[20] | | |and 1 battalion of infantry.
| | |Second largest town in the Sudan.
| | |
_Habiballa_ | 3 | 111 |Village on Blue Nile on left of
| | |road. Much cultivation hereabouts.
| | |
Um Bellal | 3 | 114 |Village on right of road. Much
| | |jungle along river bank.
| | |
_Bagadi_ | 9 | 123 |Several villages are passed and a
| | |good deal of cultivation to
| | |Bagadi, a large village with good
| | |watering place. From here the
| | |telegraph runs to Meshra El Beriab
_Meshra El | 14 | 137 |(10 miles), and thence to Meshra
Shukaba_ | | |El Shukaba (6½ miles); however,
| | |the most direct road cuts off the
| | |bend and strikes the river at
| | |Meshra Shukaba. Several villages
| | |in this neighbourhood and bush
| | |both inland and along river bank.
| | |A road from Segadi joins in here.
| | |
_El Denegila_ | 4 | 141 |Good watering place; several
| | |villages. Cultivation.
| | |
_Meshra El | 9¾ | 150¾ |Several villages and much
Dai_ | | |cultivation is passed on the river
| | |bank about half way to Meshra El
_Meshra El | 7 | 157¾ |Hegerat. Much bush about here, but
Hegerat_ | | |main road is good.
| | |
_Sennar_ | 9 | 166¾ |In ruins, but being re-built. Head
| | |Quarters of District and
| | |garrisoned by a detachment from
| | |Wad Medani.
| | |
| 2½ | 169¼ |River bends eastwards and road
| | |leaves it about 2 miles to the
_Meshra | 11 | 180¼ |east and passes through thick bush
Eridiba_ | | |to Meshra Eridiba, 1¾ miles before
| | |reaching which Sheikh Talha is
| | |passed on the right bank. Good
| | |camping ground and grazing.
| | |
| | |Leaving Meshra Eridiba the country
| | |is more open, and cultivated with
| | |dura and semsem.
| | |
| | |Abdin is a moderate-sized village
| | |on river bank 1½ miles from main
| | |road. Good watering place. No
| | |grazing near camp, but it is
| | |obtainable some 2 miles north.
| | |
| | |Abu Shoka is passed 2 miles to the
| | |east.
| | |
| | |On river bank. From here there is
| | |a road following the river which
| | |makes a big bend to the east to
| | |Senga. The direct road is _viâ_
_Enediba_ | 13 | 193¼ |Enediba, and passes through much
| | |cultivation and crosses many
_Senga_ or | 11¾ | 205 |tracks to Senga, an important
_Seneij_ | | |village on the river bank. This is
| | |now the Head Quarters of the old
| | |Karkoj District. It is garrisoned
| | |by a detachment from Wad Medani.
| | |Many Kenana and Baggara Arabs live
| | |here, but the population is much
| | |mixed. From Senga roads lead to
| | |Lueisa and Abu Kashim on the
| | |Dinder.
| | |
| | |There is a P.T.O. here.
| | |
| | |A road runs east from here _viâ_
| | |Teigo (wells 16 miles) to J. Dali,
| | |and another to J. Moya. From J.
| | |Dali there are tracks to the White
| | |Nile at Jebelein and Goz Abu Guma.
| | |
_Senga Um | 6½ | 211½ |From here the track runs due south
Benein_ | | |to Senga Um Benein on river bank.
| | |Kenana village.
| | |
_Meshra Dar | 7½ | 219 |Thence to Meshra Dar Agil, whence
Agil_ | | |by river bank to Karkoj, a town of
| | |not much importance now owing to
_Karkoj_ | 5 | 224 |the transfer of Government
| | |offices, &c., to Senga.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
32.—KHARTOUM TO GOZ ABU GUMA AND JEBELEIN, UP RIGHT BANK OF
WHITE NILE.
COMPILED FROM REPORTS BY CAPTAINS T. CONOLLY AND W. A. BOULNOIS
(1899).
N.B.—The river can be approached practically anywhere as far
as Shawal.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| | |Leaving the most westerly group of
| | |palms at Khartoum, the road runs
| | |due south for a mile, leaving the
| | |village of Goz on the left, and
| | |that of Rumeila on the right.
| | |Cotton soil. River visible.
| | |
| | |In next 7 miles road runs (185
| | |Mag.), passing a string of
| | |villages on the right (W.) about 1
Assara | — | — |mile away. The name of all these
| | |seems to be Assara, till one gets
Kalakla | 5 | 6 |to the village of Kalakla, about 6
| | |miles from Khartoum, situated in a
| | |large clump of trees. Road runs on
| | |open desert sand—very good going;
| | |river invisible, about 2 miles
| | |off.
| | |
Sheikh Um | 3 | 9 |At 9 miles from Khartoum road
Meriom | | |passes a village with a high tomb
| | |in it, called Sheikh Wad Um
| | |Meriom. This lies on the river
| | |about 1½ miles from the main road.
| | |
El Kalakeil | 1 | 10 |At 10 miles road passes El
| | |Kalakeil on the E. side of it.
| | |There are some signs in this last
| | |mile of the country having been
| | |cultivated. From here the river is
| | |about 3 miles off, invisible on
| | |account of the bank of sand which
| | |forms the desert edge, and some
| | |trees on it.
| | |
| | |After this the road enters some
| | |low sand hills, with large clumps
| | |of big trees on the river side
| | |about ½ mile off.
| | |
| 3 | 13 |Three miles off this brings one
| | |into the first open scrub, which
| | |gets closer as it approaches the
| | |river—but is not thick, except in
| | |a few places on the river bank.
| | |
Geziret Haraz | 4 | 17 |At 17 miles the head of two
| | |islands at high Nile (now no
Geziret Um | — | — |longer islands), called Geziret
Arda | | |Haraz and Geziret Um Arda. These
| | |islands are, I believe, some 5
| | |miles apart at high Nile, but are
| | |now practically one, owing to big
| | |alluvial flat from which they
| | |rise, being dry at this time of
| | |the year (10.3.99).
| | |
| | |At this point, and for the next 3
| | |miles on the road, there are a
| | |good number of shallow, 15 to 20
| | |feet, wells, giving good water,
| | |slightly bitter. I only saw 3, but
| | |7 were reported by natives. There
| | |are a good number of camels to be
| | |seen in this piece of country.
| | |
J. Auli | 8 | 25 |Eight miles further takes one to
| | |J. Auli, a steep rock about 100
| | |feet high, with a small under-
| | |feature on the N.W., about 50
| | |feet. There is a good meshra, or
| | |watering place. Under this
| | |mountain there is a good camping
| | |ground for a brigade.
| | |
Gar El Nabi | 3 | 28 |Passing E. of J. Auli, after 3
| | |miles Gar El Nabi is reached,
| | |which lies close to it. These 3
| | |miles are through open bush, with
| | |river visible about ½ to 1 mile
| | |off.
| | |
| 4 | 32 |For the next 4 miles the bush gets
| | |thicker and the road is crossed by
| | |small khors, and in places by
| | |cultivation zeribas. River
| | |invisible.
| | |
| | |Next 6 miles the bush gets more
| | |open again, and a line of small
| | |sand hills is seen along the river
| | |edge hiding it. Horses can be
| | |watered anywhere in this 6 miles.
| | |In the last half of this distance
| | |the trees cease on the east side
| | |of the road and 2 large khors
| | |cross it.
| | |
Opposite J. | 6 | 38 |At 38 miles J. Barima is opposite
Barima or | | |on the other bank of the river.
Breima | | |For about 2 miles before reaching
| | |this point, and for 2½ miles after
| | |it, the road runs through sand
| | |hills, the river being visible
| | |about ½ mile off.
| | |
| | |At this point (2½ miles south of
| | |J. Barima) the river is quite
| | |close to the road, which changes
| | |its direction to 200° magnetic.
| | |
| 7 | 45 |The road rises slightly in the
| | |next mile and 3½ miles further on
| | |goes through bush which, though
| | |open on the E. side, is fairly
| | |thick on the W., making the river
| | |invisible.
| | |
Wad Belal | 3 | 48 |After 3 miles through open bush
| | |and sand hills, Wad Belal, a wood
| | |station for steamers and a good
| | |watering place is reached.
| | |
| 2 | 50 |For the first 2 miles from Wad
| | |Belal the road runs through
| | |scattered trees which become
| | |fairly close bush on the river
| | |side for another 2 miles.
| | |
El Geteina | 4½ | 54½ |The road enters a large plain of
| | |cotton soil, with three tracks
| | |across it to Arab dwellings,
| | |towards the centre of the Gezira
| | |about 4 miles in, and reaches the
| | |large village of El Geteina. On
| | |the river side there is a large
| | |alluvial flat about 2 miles
| | |across, and 3 to 4 miles long,
| | |which runs north of El Geteina
| | |towards Wad Belal. There is a
| | |curious round sand hill in the
| | |middle of this flat which must be
| | |an island at high Nile.
| | |
| | |El Geteina consists of two
| | |villages about 1 mile apart, the
| | |larger of the two being to the
| | |north. It is fairly clean and has
| | |a very good market. There was a
| | |certain amount of cultivation
| | |going on with Shadufs (not an
| | |amount proportionate to the size
| | |of the village), and a large tract
| | |of country is obviously sown with
| | |dura during the rains. This was
| | |the most prosperous village I saw
| | |on the Gezira (March, 1899). It is
| | |now Head Quarters of Geteina
| | |District.
| | |
| | |One mile over cotton soil beyond
| | |the village of El Geteina, a small
| | |one of the same name is reached.
| | |
| | |Immediately on leaving this, the
| | |road runs into sand dunes with
| | |bush for 1 mile; river close (200
| | |yards).
| | |
| | |After that, 6½ miles of very good
| | |going through scattered trees. The
| | |road here is crossed by a large
| | |number of Arab tracks to meshras;
| | |and many herds of sheep and goats
| | |were seen. River invisible from
| | |road.
| | |
| | |The next 3 miles runs through
| | |fairly thick bush with open
| | |spaces. This bush gets thinner as
| | |it recedes from the river. During
| | |the next 2½ miles the road passes
| | |to west of a fine strip of open
| | |cotton soil about 2½ miles wide,
| | |separated from the river by a
| | |thick strip of bushes and a large
| | |alluvial plain, so that now
| | |(12.3.99) it is about 2 to 3 miles
| | |from the river. Much dura seems to
| | |have been grown here, but only a
| | |small portion of this large plain
| | |was under cultivation last year.
| | |
| | |At the end of this plain to the
| | |S.E. there are a line of sand
| | |hills running N.E. to S.W., and
| | |getting gradually smaller towards
| | |the S.W. These run alongside the
| | |road, beyond the open plain, and
| | |end in some small dunes near the
Garrasa | 12 | 66½ |village of Garrasa. Garrasa is a
| | |small village—without a market—the
| | |people of which seem poor. There
| | |is a good meshra here. Leaving
| | |Garrasa the road runs through
| 3 | 69½ |about 3 miles of dura land, a
| | |large part of which has been
| | |recently cultivated. River ¼ to ½
| | |mile away.
| | |
Wad Shalai | 2½ | 72 |After 2½ miles more, alongside
| | |sand hills near the river, the
| | |road reaches the small village of
| | |Wad Shalai—the inhabitants of
| | |which were all away on the river
| | |bank cultivating.
| | |
Wad El Saki | 7 | 79 |Seven miles further, Wad El Saki,
| | |a large village on the top of some
| | |sand hills, is reached.
| | |
| | |The population was about 400 to
| | |500 (March, 1899). The road runs
| | |the first half of this distance
| | |through sand dunes on both sides,
| | |with the river close and visible.
| | |The last half leaves the river
| | |gradually, and passing through
| | |some dura ground, is about 1½
| | |miles from it at Wad El Saki.
| | |
Sayef | 3 | 82 |From here 3 miles take one to a
| | |few houses about 2 miles from the
| | |river on some sand hills called
| | |Sayef, being one of three villages
| | |of that name.
| | |
| 4 | 86 |After 4 miles over cotton soil the
| | |road crosses a sand-hill ridge
| | |running at right angles to the
| 1 | 87 |river, and about 1 mile from it,
| | |and descends into the plain close
| | |to the river at a point where
| | |another village, also called
| | |Sayef, is seen about 2 miles
| | |inland. At this point there is a
| | |good meshra, and a ferry to the
| | |other bank.
| | |
| 6 | 93 |After several miles of low scrub
| | |on the river side, and cotton soil
| | |which has all been cultivated, on
| | |the east Debasi Meshra is reached.
| | |
| | |Here the Khalifa had a big grain
| | |depôt, the ruins of which can
| | |still be seen. There is a regular
| | |ferry from here to the other bank.
| | |Two miles from this meshra is the
Debasi | 2 | 95 |village of Debasi; population
| | |about 400. The road for this
| | |distance is through sand hills, ½
| | |mile from the river.
| | |
| | |The village is on the north bank
| | |of deep khor. No water in khor
| | |(13.3.99 or 1.10.99), but might
| | |entail 2 or 3 miles circuit at
| | |high Nile. From Debasi to Shabasha
| | |(3½ miles) road close to bank.
| | |Thence to 14th mile 1 to 1½ miles
| | |distant.
| | |
| | |Stony hills from 6th to 12th mile
| | |east of road. Sandy bank to river,
| | |good watering; slight scrub close
| | |to river to 6th mile. Thence scrub
| | |and sunt trees along road (thick
| | |near river), cotton soil, muddy
| | |bank. Road closes to river at
| | |Ghobeisha.
| | |
Ghobeisha | 13 | 108 |Ghobeisha meshra and village, good
| | |place for camp and watering. Road
| | |crosses open plain with high grass
| | |cotton soil, probably under water
| | |at high Nile.
| | |
Ghayafa | 4½ | 112½ |Ghayafa meshra, good camping
| | |ground and watering place; sand
| | |hill near meshra. Scrub fairly
| | |thick, cotton soil.
| | |
Denegila | 8½ | 121 |Denegila village, W. of road,
| | |opposite island of same name; 1½
| | |miles further, village Abu Karun,
| | |N. of road, where it crosses track
Um Gar | 4 | 125 |to Um Seneita, thence to Um Gar
| | |village, W. of road, opposite
| | |island same name. Dura crops in
| | |this district; thick bush close to
Meshra El | 3 | 128 |river to Meshra El Hella. Road
Hella | | |runs close to river to Kawa.
| | |
Kawa | 4 | 132 |Kawa, large village with suk, Head
| | |Quarters of District, Post and
| | |Telegraph station. Road runs ½
| | |mile to 1 mile from river through
| | |dura cultivation, and then over
| | |grassy plain past village Abu
| | |Hindi.
| | |
Meshra | 6 | 138 |Meshra and village close to river.
Shaggara | | |
| | |
| | |Thence past Kanuz village, with
| | |island opposite, the road runs ¼
| | |mile to ½ mile from river to
Hassan Alob | 7 | 145 |Hassan Alob, on the banks of the
| | |river with an island called Dabus
| | |opposite. Still through bush
Nur Ed Daim | 3 | 148 |country to Nur El Daim (large
| | |village and police station). Road
| | |leaves river ½ mile to 1 mile
Sheikh’s tomb | 3 | 151 |distant up to Sheikh’s tomb
| | |(Sheikh Nur El Taib), which is on
| | |the river bank. Three large trees,
| | |a ruined mud and brick building,
| | |and some flags mark it.
| | |
Shawal | 2 | 153 |Road bends due S. to Shawal. Large
| | |village. Country: open bush,
| | |slightly undulating; good sandy
| | |watering places at river. J.
| | |Tueima visible S.E. Aba Island
| | |begins 2 miles S.
| | |
Malaha | 3 | 156 |Meshra Malaha and village
| | |Meleliha; 3 miles further on salt
Marabia | 8 | 164 |works. Road enters scrub; bush
| | |country to Marabia, good camping
| | |ground on high ground, where there
| | |are the ruins of an old fort and
| | |brick buildings. Road leaves
| | |river, crosses a grassy
| | |plain—probably under water at full
| | |Nile—passed village Torba, E. of
Goz Abu Guma | 16½ | 180½ |road, and turns S.W. to Goz Abu
or Zeinuba | | |Guma, Head Quarters of District,
| | |telegraph and post office.
| | |
| | |From Goz Abu Guma road runs ½ mile
| | |to 1 mile from river. Line of
| | |villages (_see_ sketch) on high
| | |ground about 4½ miles from river.
| | |Chiefly cattle grazing.
| | |
_El Khema_ | 6 | 186½ |Road joins river at El Khema.
| | |Police post to Mokada Abu Zeit;
_Mokada Abu | 4½ | 195½ |good camping ground and small
Zeit_ | | |village. There is a ford here at
| | |low Nile. Two miles further on
| | |Musran Island begins and continues
| | |to 3 miles of Jebelein.
| | |
_Meshra Hedib_| 4½ | 200 |Meshra Hedib to Musran Island. The
| | |road keeps close to the river
| | |bank. The E. channel seemed very
| | |much blocked with sudd, only a
| | |narrow passage 50 yards wide being
| | |visible at times.
| | |
| | |There is a meshra to Musran
| | |Island, 7 miles as the road turns
| | |from Jebelein called Zuleit. Hence
_Meshra | 17½ | 217½ |the road winds through thick
Zuleit_ | | |scrub, with patches of open
| | |country right up to the ford at
_Jebelein_ | 8½ | 225 |Jebelein.
| | |
| | |Rocky hills commanding the river
| | |about 300 feet high.
| | |
| | |Grassy plain between north and
| | |south ridges.
| | |
| | |Village on E. of southern ridge.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
33.—KHARTOUM TO GULE, _viâ_ MANAGIL AND SEGADI.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, FEBRUARY, 1902.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Khartoum | — | — |Leaving Khartoum by the track
| | |passing 200 yards west of the
| | |westernmost rifle butts, the
| | |country for the first 7 miles is
| | |quite open, and very slightly
| | |undulating. The soil is poor and
| | |sandy, and no attempt at
| | |cultivation is visible. At 8 miles
| | |the track passes through low
| | |scattered arak bush, which
_Id El | 17½ | 17½ |continues to Id El Agaliin, where
Agaliin_ | | |there is one well 120 feet deep
| | |with a good supply of water. Ahmed
| | |El Faki is the Omda of El Agaliin.
| | |Very fair grazing for camels on
| | |arak bush. Leaving the Id the
| | |country soon becomes open and
| | |bare, the soil richer, and traces
| | |of cultivation appear. Numerous
| | |cross tracks to the river are met
| | |with.
| | |
_Id Wad El | 4 | 21½ |One well 120 feet deep; water said
Bella_ | | |to be plentiful.
| | |
_Sherafat_ | 9 | 30½ |A tukl village (all villages met
| | |hereafter are built of tukls) is
| | |passed 1¼ miles on W. of track. It
| | |has a well. A mile further on arak
| | |and laot bush commence and
_Id El Orus_ | 5½ | 36 |continue to Id El Orus, where
| | |there is one well 120 feet deep;
| | |water plentiful, but slightly
| | |salt. About a mile before reaching
| | |the Id a large village named
| | |Debeisa is passed about 1 mile to
| | |the east. The people here are a
| | |mixture of Jaalin, Awamer, &c.
| | |Very fair grazing for camels on
| | |arak; there is little or no grass
| | |here or anywhere else this year.
| | |
| 7½ | 43½ |On leaving the Id the same sort of
| | |country continues, cultivation and
| | |scattered arak bush, the track
| | |still keeping the same S.S.W.
| | |direction. At 7½ miles the road to
| | |El Ribi branches off half left,
_Id El Kereil_| 2½ | 46 |and 2½ miles further on Id El
| | |Kereil is passed, ½ mile off on
| 2 | 48 |the right, the village being about
| | |the same distance further W. of
| | |the well. The country now becomes
| | |perfectly bare (at this season),
| | |it being entirely under
| | |cultivation, if not this year at
| | |any rate in a good season, and the
| | |bush ceases altogether. Villages
| | |begin to get numerous, and natives
| | |are more frequently met, as from
| | |here on to Managil, but few leave
| | |their villages for the river. This
| | |district is known as Gutefab, and
_Gutefab El | 4 | 52 |the chief village is El Areik
Areik_ | | |(Awamer) which is on the road, the
| | |Id being a mile to the east.
| | |
| 3 | 55 |About 3 miles on arak grows and
| | |affords the only grazing for
| | |camels, but it only extends for
| | |about ½ mile along the road; the
| | |country then become scattered with
| 2 | 57 |laot bush and naal grass.
| | |
Goz El Naga | 2 | 59 |Goz El Naga is passed about a mile
| | |on the right. Not much cultivation
| | |visible about here.
| | |
Dagala | 3 | 62 |A small village with no well.
| | |
| 1½ | 63½ |Road branches: right to Sarhan,
| | |left to Wad Abu Kassawi, where
Wad Abu | 3 | 66½ |lives the sheikh of the same name;
Kassawi | | |his ancestors are buried close by,
| | |and have always been of a so-
| | |called religious nature and used
| | |to be at any rate, if not now,
| | |head of a dervish-like Tarika.
| | |Village consists of about 100
| | |tukls. Low laot bush around here.
| 1¾ | 68¼ |Leaving the village on bearing
| | |216° after 1¾ miles road from
_Sarhan_ | 3 | 71¼ |Dagala to Sarhan is met and
| | |followed; the well of Sarhan being
| | |passed close by on the left and
| | |the village about 1 mile on the
| | |right. Country here quite flat,
| | |and covered with naal grass where
_El Ogda_ | 5¾ | 77 |not cultivated. El Ogda a large
| | |Mugharba village with one well of
| | |the usual depth, 120 feet. Water
| | |plentiful, 50 camels watered
| | |without inconvenience to
| | |inhabitants. Leaving the Id,
| | |country continues the same flat
| | |naal-covered plain with occasional
_Wad El Zein_ | 11¾ | 88¾ |laot bushes until nearing Wad El
| | |Zein (Omda Ahmed Wad El Zein),
| | |where remains of cultivation
| | |increase. There is one well 120
| | |feet deep. Natives, Mugharba. No
| | |grazing here for camels as
| | |elsewhere in this neighbourhood.
| | |Cultivation occurs at intervals,
| | |becoming more general after
| | |passing Sheteita a small Mugharba
_Sheteita_ | 4 | 92¾ |village. Kreimet is a large Arakin
| | |village, Omda Ahmed Yusef. Its two
_Kreimet_ | 5½ | 98¼ |wells are 4 miles further on.
| | |Another large Arakin village on
_Wells_ | 4 | 102¼ |left of road with a well, as also
| | |have two other villages close on
El Tageia | 1¼ | 103½ |right of road.
| | |
_Managil_ | 3½ | 107 |The plural of El Mangala, the name
| | |given to the village in which the
| | |suk is situated. There are some
| | |half dozen to a dozen villages
| | |close together. There are three
| | |wells and water never fails,
| | |notwithstanding they are 150 feet
| | |deep. Here there are inspector’s
| | |houses, a Mamur, Zaptia, &c. There
| | |is a large mixed population, some
| | |of whom were seen playing a game
| | |called “tiwa” very like rounders.
| | |The plain of Managil is absolutely
| | |flat, without a single bush in
| | |sight, the whole in favourable
| | |seasons being given up to
| | |cultivation. Market days are
| | |Sunday and Wednesday. Leaving
| | |Managil by the route taken Otgi
| | |(Hameg), Dar Nail (Hameg), Wad El
| | |Shagl (Faradiin) are passed a mile
| | |or more on the right hand, whilst
| | |Takala and Um Dugl are passed on
| | |the left, before reaching Um Talha
| | |a Faradiin village. All these
| | |villages have wells, as have all
| | |villages of any pretensions about
_Um Talha_ | 9½ | 116½ |here.
| | |
_Sheleikha_ | 2½ | 119 |A Shaigia village passed on left,
| | |and Wad Doka on the right, before
_El Amara_ | 3½ | 122½ |reaching El Amara (Hameg), and ¾
| | |mile further on Wad Gangar
_Wad Gangari_ | ¾ | 123¼ |(Shaigia), Rabaha is 1¾ miles
| | |further on, and a ¼ mile before
_Rabaha_ | 1¾ | 125 |reaching it a small suk is passed.
| | |From here on the people are
| | |Kawahla.
| | |
| | |Between Managil and Rabaha the
| | |track appears to follow a low
| | |ridge overlooking an extensive and
| | |fertile plain to the W. growing a
| | |large amount of cotton and dura.
| | |J. Maturi is plainly visible.
| | |
| | |After leaving Rabaha track passes
| | |through low laot bush which
| | |continues as far as Khalet. Two
| | |villages, Hellet El Hag and Wad
| | |Abdel Rof, are passed about a mile
| | |on the right and left of road _en
| | |route_, as also is Sheikh Abdel
_Khalet_ | 5½ | 130½ |Rof’s tomb. The well at Khalet is
| | |the last on the road to Segadi,
| | |there are several other Kawahla
| | |villages with cultivation and
| | |wells close by. Imam Ali is the
| | |head Kawahla Sheikh. From Khalet
| | |it is possible under favourable
| | |conditions to see J. Segadi. Soon
| | |after leaving Khalet the first
| | |kittr is met, it now becomes the
| | |prevailing bush.
| | |
Wad Mukashfi | 4½ | 135 |Called after the son of the
| | |Dervish Emir who captured Sennar,
| | |who (son) now lives here and is
| | |said to have only lately come out
| | |of prison for dervish practices.
| | |This is the last village in the
| | |Managil District of Blue Nile
| | |Province. The Sennar Province is
| | |now entered. After passing the
| | |Mukashfi cultivation, the road
| | |leads across an uninhabited
| | |waterless plain until Segadi is
| | |reached. This plain, on which
| | |numerous camels are grazed during
| | |the rains, is, as a rule, open and
| | |covered with naal and siha grass
| | |intersected at intervals by belts
| | |of kittr, the thickest and widest
| | |is in the last 4 miles before
| | |reaching the hamlet on the north
_J. Sejadi_ | 24 | 159 |of J. Segadi. Another outlying
| | |hamlet is Ereiga, which was passed
| 1 | 160 |but not seen, about 4 miles from
| | |the jebel which strongly resembles
| | |J. Kassala on a small scale. It
| | |consists of two main granite
| | |masses lying north-east and south-
| | |west, the wells being between
| | |them. There is also one on the
| | |western side of main jebel. The
| | |village, which must contain some
| | |1,500 inhabitants, is close to the
| | |western face of the larger jebel.
| | |The population is very mixed, and
| | |many only live here during the dry
| | |season. Torin Ahmed (Rufaa) is
| | |Sheikh of this heterogeneous
| | |crowd. There are said to be caves
| | |in the jebels here, which
| | |doubtless occasionally harbour bad
| | |characters from the Gezira and
| | |elsewhere.
| | |
_Moya_ | 13½ | 173½ |Following the telegraph line which
| | |runs E.S.E., Moya is reached in
| | |about 13½ miles. Dense kittr is
| | |passed through _en route_, but the
| | |road is cleared for the wire.
| | |Approaching Moya much cultivation
| | |is passed in clearings in the
| | |bush. The name Moya as applied to
| | |this village is an euphemism as
| | |water is particularly scarce, and
| | |is obtained from several 15 to 20
| | |feet wells under the jebel 1 mile
| | |south of the village. In the hot
| | |weather the inhabitants (probably
| | |2,000) disperse or else carry
| | |their water from Segadi. The
| | |Omda’s name is El Imam Hadibai,
| | |and the majority of the population
| | |are Amarna, a few Hameg and
| | |Gowama. There are caves called
| | |“maiuba” in the jebel close to the
| | |village, said to be used for
| | |“fogara.” From the summit of the
| | |jebel, J. Dali is plainly visible
| | |on a favourable day, bearing 177½°
| | |magnetic. There is little shade
| | |here.
| | |
Road to Teigo | 3 | 176½ |After hugging the eastern end of
| | |J. Moya, the road to Gule turns
| | |nearly due south, the road to
| | |Teigo branching off S.S.E., and
| | |after traversing a bad belt of
| | |kittr bush about ½ mile in width,
| | |the road crosses a plain at first
| | |studded with kurmet, but later
| | |without bush at all.
| | |
| 4 | 180½ |Road here bifurcates, the left
| | |hand track leading to the river
| | |(Blue Nile).
| | |
| 5 | 185½ |The road from Seneij or Senga to
| | |Goz Abu Guma _viâ_ J. Dud crosses
| | |the track.
| | |
J. Sereig | 10 | 195½ |A small granite hill about 200
| | |feet high, the road passes it 100
| | |yards on the right hand.
| | |
| 6 | 201½ |Scattered bush now commences and
| | |continues with occasional
_J. Dali_ | 19½ | 221 |interruptions until reaching the
| | |bad kittr about 1 mile wide
| | |surrounding Jebel Dali, a stony
| | |hill about 500 feet high. Water is
| | |found about half way up,
| | |immediately below its highest
| | |point. After a good rainy season
| | |it lasts till March or April, but
| | |there was practically none on
| | |February 4th, 1902.
| | |
| | |The road from Senga _viâ_ Teigo on
| | |Blue Nile to Musran and Goz Abu
| | |Guma passes by this watering
| | |place. Remains of former
| | |habitations of Abu Rof Arabs are
| | |visible. Leaving the jebel in a
| | |southerly direction after
| | |traversing a thick belt of kittr,
| | |½ mile wide, J. Teigo is visible
J. Abu Garud | 22 | 243 |on the left and J. Abu Garud and
| | |other hills on the right. Abu
| | |Garud is the highest hill seen
| | |south of Khartoum. At first the
| | |country is open, then forest
| | |(chiefly soffar) begins and
J. Bozi | 9 | 252 |continues till after passing J.
| | |Bozi a long, low hill immediately
| | |under the west end of which the
| | |road passes, and then becomes open
_J. Mazmum_ | 14 | 266 |until reaching J. Mazmum. Here
| | |rain and spring water is found in
| | |natural tanks in perhaps half a
| | |dozen places. The amount of water
| | |of course varying with the rains.
| | |There was sufficient in a tank at
| | |the foot of the southern end of
| | |the western face of the jebel to
| | |water 40 camels and 40 men for two
| | |days. This exhausted this supply.
| | |A spring at the foot of the
| | |southern end of the western face,
| | |being on the road, is the one
| | |generally used, and the supply is
_Water Tank_ | 1½ | 267½ |consequently low. There is a tank
| | |about 20 yards by 10 yards on a
| | |detached hill, about ¾ mile N.W.
| | |of main jebel. Water was found of
| | |an average depth of 2 feet, both
| | |sweet and clear. This being off
| | |the road had not been much used.
| | |There is said to be always water
| | |at Mazmum. No natives[21] live
| | |here now, though formerly it was
| | |head quarters of the Abu Rof
| | |Arabs, the remains of whose houses
| | |are still visible. Good shade (200
| | |men), and very fair grazing for
| | |camels near western water tank.
| | |From here, Gireiwa and other hills
| | |to the S. and S.E., as well as
| | |Bunzuga and Abu Garud are easily
| | |visible.
| | |
| 4 | 271½ |The track to Gule still leads
| | |south, the country being open for
| 5 | 276½ |first 4 miles, when narrow belt of
| | |bush is traversed. Five miles
| | |further on thick soffar bush
| | |commences which develops into
| | |forest, which extends E. and W.
| | |continuously for many miles south
| | |of Gule. The principal trees are
| | |hashab (very numerous about 20th
| | |mile, but decrease as Gireiwa is
| | |approached), talh, nabag, soffar,
| | |kadad, and the poisonous (to
| | |camels) hakabit. Wide clearings
| | |along the path indicate that in
| | |the old days this road was much
| | |used, but now they are mostly
| | |overgrown, and travelling by night
| | |is an unpleasant, if not a
| | |dangerous proceeding.
| | |
_J. Gireiwa_ | 21½ | 298 |Two long low hills running nearly
| | |E. and W., and where the road
| | |passes between them there is a
| | |small supply of water (spring), 20
| | |yards on right side of road.
| | |
_El Burun_ | 7 | 305 |J. Gule is first visible from
| | |here, and is a granite mass about
| | |1,300 (?) feet high and 1¾ miles
| | |long, lying nearly E. and W. El
| | |Burun a small village at the foot
| | |of northern face of the jebel is
| | |first approached, the road then
| | |turns to the west, passing an
| | |encampment of Dar Agil Arabs, and
| | |after rounding the western end of
_Gule_ | 3 | 308 |Jebel Gule the village of Gule is
| | |reached close at the foot of
| | |western and of southern face.
| | |There is a plentiful supply of
| | |water, which, however, is largely
| | |impregnated with lime and
| | |consequently is injurious to
| | |health. Idris Wad Regab is Sheikh
| | |of Dar Fung and lives here. He is
| | |a direct descendant of the kings
| | |of the Fung, whose former
| | |territory extended to the south
| | |beyond the present limits of the
| | |Sudan-Abyssinian frontier. The
| | |total inhabitants of Gule and its
| | |two outlying hamlets is about
| | |1,000. The natives are Hameg, and
| | |Selim and Dar Agil Baggaras roam
| | |about in the neighbourhood. Roads
| | |lead from here to Roseires (5
| | |days), Surkum (5 days), Karkoj,
| | |and Renk (2 days). There is much
| | |fever here during and after the
| | |rainy season. There is good shade
| | |about 1 mile east of the village.
| | |Little in the way of supplies, not
| | |even grain, is obtainable here.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
34.—MANAGIL TO SENNAR.
BY CAPTAIN N. M. SMYTH, V.C., 1899.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Managil | — | — |Headquarters of District (_vide_
| | |preceding report).
| | |
_Abud_ (Abudia| 9½ | 9½ |Most fertile land in the Gezira
Tribe) | | |hereabouts. Track runs E. through
| | |grass plain. Bush visible 1 mile
| | |to S. Two wells 150 feet deep.
| | |Track N.E. to Mesellemia, E. to
| | |Wad Medani, and S.E. to Sennar.
| | |
Um Deghina | 1 | 10½ |Pond, 60 yards diameter, dry after
(Kawahla) | | |December. Cultivation commences.
| | |
| 2 | 12½ |Mimosa scrub W. of track.
| | |
| 3 | 15½ |Village of same name ½ mile S.
| | |
| 2 | 17½ |A dry pond. Mimosa 10 feet high,
| | |and high grass on both sides of
| | |the road. The Hassanat have a camp
| | |in the winter about 2 miles W. of
| | |track, and water at Abud and
| | |Ataleih.
| | |
_Ataleih_ | 4 | 21½ |Two wells. A large tree ½ mile
| | |N.W. serves as landmark. No good
| | |shade obtainable. S. of this,
| | |thorny scrub has sprung up on
| | |fallow land. A track leading S.W.
| | |to Bagadi, Kenana, Digoisab and
| | |Hellet El Baragna. Track leads on
| | |about S.E.
| | |
_Keteir_ | 6 | 27½ |Small village marked by a large
| | |tree. One well about 150 feet
| | |deep, runs dry directly after
| | |watering about 200 people, 300
| | |sheep and 20 donkeys.
| | |
_Karatib_ | 4 | 31½ |Large village, good well,
(Jaalin and | | |excellent black cotton soil
Kenana) | | |extending for 3 miles in all
| | |directions. Only patches have been
| | |cultivated for dura.
| | |
| 2 | 33½ |Thick bush and high grass. View
| | |limited to 300 yards.
| | |
_Basabir_ | 1 | 34½ |New well being sunk. Cotton and
(Jaalin) | | |dura crops.
| | |
_Fahal_ | 1 | 35½ |About 50 huts to W. Copious supply
(Kenana) | | |of water from well. A small khor
| | |S.E. of it holds water till
| | |December. Wood extends to S.
| | |
Fahal Suk | 1 | 36½ |Consists of rows of straw shanties
| | |situated in a wood. It is chiefly
| | |used by Kenana.
| | |
_El Giseirab_ | 2 | 38½ |One good well in a clearing in
| | |wood. Easily defended; good
| | |bivouac ground.
| | |
_Tulbakh_ | 4 | 42½ |Last mile of approach is open and
| | |partly cultivated. Long straggling
| | |village. Dry pond and cemetery N.
| | |of it. To S.W. the market, and a
| | |well and pond which dried up about
| | |10th February. Mohammed El Nur of
| | |Kenana is Sheikh of village.
| | |Several hundred sheep, many
| | |donkeys, one horse, fowls and
| | |pigeons, but no camels. The best
| | |marked track leads S. from the
| | |Suk, and, bending S.E., passes
| | |zeribaed dura fields to El Doma,
| | |where there is a village and a
_El Doma_ | 8 | 50½ |well. It continues, through shady
| | |acacia and fields to Meshra El
_Meshra El | 4 | 54½ |Dai, whence the Blue Nile can be
Dai_ | | |reached.
| | |
_Meshra El | 2 | 56½ |Good halting place on bank.
Bejirat_ | | |
| | |
_Sennar_ | 9 | 65½ |Banks wooded.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
35.—KEILI TO SENGA, _viâ_ GULE.
COMPILED FROM A REPORT FURNISHED BY LIEUT.-COL. GORRINGE, MARCH,
1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Keili, S.W. | — | — |Limited water supply from water
| | |holes, but more could be had by
| | |digging down to 8 feet—cotton soil
| | |in places and stony in others—
| | |single file along track.
| | |
_Khor Farsia_ | 11 | 11 |Insufficient water at Kukulik, had
| | |to go on to Khor Farsia, fair
| | |supply of water by digging 4 feet.
| | |After which, no water first 3
| | |miles. Cotton soil, single file.
| | |After J. Doya, good hard going
| | |cotton soil last 2 miles.
| | |
_Khor Togu_ | 33½ | 44½ |Ample water 18 feet below surface
| | |in Khor Togu, first 4 miles cotton
| | |soil. Rest house. After reaching
| | |J. Dunkur good hard going for 3
| | |miles, then bad cotton soil, for 1
| | |mile each side J. Bur-Burka good
| | |going, then bad again over cotton
| | |soil, insufficient water at first
| | |village 4 miles from spot camped
| | |at, a little water half way
| | |between village and camp in Khor
| | |Togu.
| | |
_Seraf Dal_ | 10½ | 55 |Ample water running and in pools,
| | |single file, stony, fair going
| | |only, bad in places. Rest house at
| | |Soda.
| | |
_Khor Tamrin_ | 7 | 62 |Fair supply of water in pools
| | |probably ample by digging, a good
| | |deal up and down hill, hard going
| | |but stone, single file.
| | |
_J. Kukur_ | 5 | 67 |Good supply of water reported in
| | |Seraf Sahaba, hard going, stony,
| | |single file. Rest house.
| | |
_J. Buk_ (N.W.| 8½ | 75½ |Rest house. Fair supply of water
end) | | |in water holes, cotton soil,
| | |single file, bad going. From here
| | |on no water, very bad going, hard
| | |cotton soil badly cracked, single
| | |file, though road has been
| | |widened.
| | |
_J. Gule_ | 30½ | 106 |Residence of Sheikh Idris Wad
| | |Ragab. Limited supply of water in
| | |water holes, good supply from
| | |Government wells, very bad going
| | |except in few places, soil badly
| | |cracked, single file, though road
| | |has been widened.
| | |
_J. Jemam_ or | 9 | 115 |Small supply of water here.
_Ali_ | | |
| | |
_J. Roro_ | 5½ | 120½ |Plenty of water in water holes 4
(N.E. side) | | |feet deep, going same as before.
| | |Continuing, no water but better
| | |going, though mostly cotton soil,
| | |single file.
| | |
_J. Werka_ | 19 | 139½ |Small amount of water in holes.
| | |
_J. Gerebin_ | 15½ | 155 |Very limited supply of water in
| | |water holes in two places at N.
| | |side of hill, just sufficient
| | |water in each to water about 100
| | |horses once. _There is however a
| | |large tank of beautiful water on
| | |the top of the hill_. This does
| | |not last throughout the dry
| | |weather. Going same as before.
| | |From here to the river there is no
| | |water, going for the first 7 miles
| | |same as before, after which it
| | |improves, but all marching is in
| | |single file.
| | |
_Meshra Gurra_| 25 | 180 |From here good road down L. B.
(Blue Nile) | | |Blue Nile to Singa.
| | |
_Ramela_ | 10 | 190 |Jaalin village.
| | |
_Abu Naam_ | 3 | 193 |Village on Blue Nile.
| | |
_Geneira_ | 8 | 201 | „ „ „
| | |
_Seiro_ | 7½ | 208½ | „ „ „
| | |
_Senga_ | 19½ | 228 |Head quarters of Senga District.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
36.—SENGA TO J. JEROK, _viâ_ KHOR OFAT AND KEILI.
BY CAPTAIN C. ROBERTS, R.A., FEBRUARY, 1904.
NOTE.—This was the route followed by the expedition against Ibrahim
Wad Mahmud in February and March, 1904. It has not, hitherto, been
the usual route to Keili, but as it is the most direct, and could
be easily improved, it will probably be adopted, at any rate for
Government purposes.
From the mouth of the Khor Ofat to Keili (50 miles) there are
no inhabitants and in February, 1904, no track. There is little
difficulty about water, which stands in pools in the Khor Ofat, or
can be easily obtained by digging in its bed. The distances cannot
be taken as accurate.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Senga | — | — |Leaving Senga, road good, mostly
| | |over cotton soil; last part better
| | |than first, but dusty. Country
| | |covered with bush. There are two
| | |roads; westerly one to Um Bayaga
| | |and thence S.E. towards river,
| | |other road runs nearer the river.
| | |Wheeled transport feasible.
| | |
_Um Benein_ | 6 | 6 |There are two Meshras here, bad at
| | |High Nile, fair at Low Nile; wood
| | |plentiful, grass fairly so. From
| | |here two roads, the one nearest
| | |river is shortest. Going on upper
| | |road bad after leaving Dar Agil,
| | |last part better along telegraph
| | |line. Thick bush. Good camp about
| | |2 miles from telegraph line. Good
_Meshra Abu | 18 | 24 |Meshra, wood and grass plentiful,
Hagar_ | | |duck jhil 3 miles S. of camp.
| | |
| | |From here two roads, one along
| | |river, other along telegraph line,
| | |latter shorter. Bad going, cotton
| | |soil, thick scrub. Bad (steep)
| | |meshra for animals. Headquarters
_Abu Naama_ | 14 | 38 |of District.
| | |
| | |From here two roads, better and
| | |shorter upper one along telegraph.
| | |Country thick bush, more
| | |undulating. Good going.
| | |
_Gura_ | 15 | 53 |Good meshra and shady camp. From
| | |here two roads, lower one along
| | |river the shorter—latter part
| | |along edge of Maya Ahmar, and cuts
| | |through it. River reached by
| | |elephant track. Country dense
| | |scrub, and difficult for camels at
_Galgeni_ | 15 | 68 |night. At high Nile lower road
| | |impassable. Good camp on sandy bed
| | |of river. Grass plentiful and
| | |watering easy. Road now good
| | |though hilly, and follows
| | |telegraph line, but branches off
| | |to river opposite to Sherif Ahmed
| | |(right bank). Dense bush.
| | |
_Taulu_ | 19 | 87 |A very good, large camping ground
| | |on grass and good meshra. Wood and
| | |grass plentiful. Camp must be
| | |swampy in rains.
| | |
| | |Road still hilly; difficult khor
| | |about 4 miles from camp, could be
| | |easily improved. Road difficult
| | |for camels owing to thick bush,
| | |and road along telegraph too
| | |hilly.
| | |
_Abu Kok_ | 17 | 104 |Camp at Abu Kok in February bad,
| | |as site is really a marsh. Bad
| | |water, but later on river is
| | |getatable.
| | |
_El Disa_ | 10 | 114 |From here road along telegraph,
| | |but later branches off to El Disa
| | |on a rise overlooking small lake.
| | |Very pretty place. Camped on sandy
| | |river bed; easy watering; wood and
| | |grass plentiful.
| | |
| | |After striking telegraph good
| | |road, first 4 miles through thick
| | |scrub. Hilly at first, level after
| | |passing Abu Rainat, and much
| | |cultivation.
| | |
_Roseires_ | 14 | 128 |Good meshra, fair camping ground,
(Left Bank) | | |wood and grass plentiful.
| | |
_Kharaba_ | 11 | 139 |Continuing S. good going to
(Right Bank) | | |opposite Kharaba. Good camp in
| | |grove, tebeldis. Bad meshra; banks
| | |steep and bed of river soft.
| | |
_Mouth of Khor| 16 | 155 |Good road, last part through dom
Ofat_ | | |jungle to Khor Ofat. Found eight
| | |water holes dug in khor, and
| | |cavalry camped 1 mile further down
| | |at pool in bed of khor. Good
| | |camping ground in bed of khor;
| | |grass and water plentiful.
| | |
| | |The route taken now lay nearly due
| | |S. of Khor Ofat; for first 4 miles
| | |followed khor, then found
| | |excellent road, except for
| | |occasional deep elephant tracks
| | |along bank. Mostly cotton soil and
| | |thick jungle. Descended into bed
| | |of khor after 10 miles, and
| | |marched up it to where we found
_Camp (Khor | 16 | 171 |running water. Good camping ground
Ofat)_ | | |close by. Grass, wood, and water
| | |all plentiful. Continuing S.
| | |outside khor, cotton soil, good
| | |going, thick bush, grass higher
| | |and thicker as we descended into
| | |khor, 9 miles from last camp. Left
| | |khor again still heading S., road
| | |bad, cotton soil, trees bigger.
| | |Last 4 miles country more open and
_Camp, Pool | 20 | 191 |going better. Extended formations
(Khor Ofat)_ | | |possible. Camped at pool where
| | |large herd of roan drinking. Khor
| | |400 yards wide. Good camp, grass,
| | |shade, wood, and water plentiful.
| | |
| | |From here marched up khor; mostly
| | |very heavy going, parts of it
_Camp (Khor | 15 | 206 |hard. Uninteresting road. Khor
Ofat)_ | | |narrows to 120 yards. Halted at
| | |two big water holes. More water
| | |obtained by digging under W. bank.
| | |
| | |Continuing marching up khor which
| | |becomes narrower and stonier,
| | |passed through several “shellal”
| | |(cataracts) and khors running into
| | |Khor Ofat. In places bed of khor
| | |good hard going.
| | |
Camp (Khor | 15 | 221 |Banks become lower, bamboo jungle
Ofat) | | |chiefly with large trees. Good
| | |camp and water from holes in bed
| | |of khor.
| | |
_Camp (Khor | 13 | 234 |Leave Khor Ofat to the W. At first
Ofat)_ | | |bad going, pass large patch of
| | |cultivation with tukls and leave
| | |J. Ragreig on the E., and strike
| | |khor at pool; good road. Khor 15
| | |yards wide and runs E. and W.
| | |here. From here good road to
_Keili_ | 5 | 239 |Keili. Good camping ground, but
| | |water in wells dirty. Good water
| | |obtainable from Khor Ofat, 4 miles
| | |N.N.E. Garrison, 50 Sudanese
| | |regulars. Path from here
| | |excellent, passing through good
| | |deal of cultivation and leaving J.
| | |Kamya from which good view of a
| | |surrounding country obtainable
| | |close to E.
| | |
_Khor Timsa_ | 11 | 250 |After J. Kamya track intersected
| | |by khors and is over bad cotton
| | |soil. Good camp, grass poor, water
| | |plentiful.
| | |
| | |From here to Jerok trying march,
| | |as path continually ascends and
| | |descends. J. Kurmuk is left to the
| | |W.
| | |
_J. Jerok_ | 20 | 270 |Formerly the home of Ibrahim Wad
| | |Mahmud. Garrison of 50 Sudanese
| | |regulars on small hill, about 1½
| | |miles S. Water supply scanty, but
| | |plenty for animals, 2½ miles S. in
| | |Khor Agaheni.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
37.—ROSEIRES TO KEILI, _viâ_ GULE.
BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, FEBRUARY, 1902.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Roseires | — | — |
| | |
Abramat | 3 | 3 |Village on W. bank Blue Nile, road
| | |goes through bush and grass.
| | |
_J. Agadi_[22]| 22 | 25 |Crossing Khor El Dunia, water here
| | |in three places, not good. Road
| | |now goes S. until Seraf Jogo;
| | |usual cotton soil and bush.
| | |
_Seraf Jogo_ | 25 | 50 |Rest house and good water here in
| | |khor from a spring; tobacco
| | |cultivated by the Ingasana. Bad
| | |going, over rocks; pass spring at
| | |Pingulo; road going W. to Buk.
| | |
_J. Buk_ | 12 | 62 |Water here under villages on S.
| | |side of hill, not good. Road goes
| | |off N.W. towards Gule; grass and
| | |bush and cotton soil.
| | |
_Gule_ | 27½ | 89½ |Water here good in two places on
| | |S. side of hill. One deep well,
_Khor Deleib_ | 16½ | 106 |good water, also big hole with
| | |Sagia; track S.W. to Khor Deleib;
| | |a flat depression with small khor
| | |in it; sometimes water holes where
| | |Arabs water sheep. Well 20 feet
| | |deep, good supply of water; track
| | |turns to S. to J. Silak.
| | |
_J. Silak_ | 22 | 128 |Water south side of hill, full of
| | |filth, natives even say it is bad,
| | |except just after rain. Rest house
| | |here.
| | |
| | |Road goes off due E. through pass
| | |in J. Sirefat to J. Mogaja.
| | |
_J. Majaju_ | 19¼ | 147¼ |Village on top of high rock; water
| | |has to be brought down by natives—
| | |very good; go due South now to
| | |Abuldugu, road over hard ground.
| | |Well can be easily sunk at bottom
| | |of hill 6 feet deep. Rest house.
| | |
_J. Abuldugu_ | 16½ | 163¾ |Water here in pond in pass in the
| | |hills, getting bad at this time of
| | |year (Feb.). Water obtainable from
| | |wells in K. Ganna, not very
| | |plentiful, ½ hour E. There is a
| | |Rest house here.
| | |
| | |Track due S. to J. Surkum.
| | |
| | |A track also goes to Keili (9
| | |hours march), water plentiful,
| | |Kukeli two-thirds of way.
| | |
_J. Surkum_ | 14 | 177¾ |Water in four places on S.
| | |side—very dirty.
| | |
| | |Water also obtainable in khor
| | |about 1½ miles N.E.
| | |
_J. Keili_ | 20 | 197¾ |Track goes off to W., and is over
| | |cotton soil, and crosses khors.
| | |Water here plentiful. Best water
| | |S. end of big hill some way up.
| | |Rest house.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
38.—FAZOGLI TO GEZAN.
BY LIEUTENANT L. C. JACKSON, R.E.
[Sidenote: The Road.]
Is in good condition throughout. It is very level, except where it
crosses a khor or skirts a hill closely, there are no long ascents or
descents. The large khors are all very shallow and broad, with sandy
beds, so that at the present time of year, when they are all empty,
they do not cause the slightest delay. When passing near a hill the
road is generally rough and uneven, and covered with loose stones,
and in addition numerous small khors have to be crossed.
[Sidenote: The Country.]
Is as a rule dead flat, with the exception of the Jebels, which are
like so many islands. Except where there is cultivation, there is
nothing but bush, varying in thickness, and grass, which is now being
burnt. Cultivation as a rule consists of dura and semsem, but except
where mentioned there is nothing but bush. Where the grass has been
burnt, progress on foot through the bush is fairly easy as a rule.
[Sidenote: Water.]
Is very scarce. All the khors are now (December) dry, but water can
be obtained from holes scraped in the bed. The supply is rapidly
decreasing, and in two or three places where water was obtainable
on our way out to Gezan, no water could be obtained on our way back,
only three days later.
Between the Khor Sumba and the Khor Karri, however, water appears
to be plentiful, and in the Khor Tumat itself there seems to be an
ample supply just below the surface.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Fazogli, Mek’s| — | — |The road leaves the village in a
House | | |southerly direction and runs
| | |straight to the foot of J.
| | |Fazogli, on reaching which it
| | |follows the S.E. spur, but without
| | |ascending it. At first it runs
| | |through patches of cultivation,
| | |but after about ½ mile this gives
| | |place to thin bush. The road is
| | |for the most part good, except
| | |where it crosses numerous small
| | |khors, tributaries of the Khor
| | |Akluli, which also follows the
| | |foot of the ridge, as a rule
| | |between the road and the high
| | |ground. The ascent on the right of
| | |the road is very steep, and the
| | |hill side consists of boulders and
| | |loose stones and is covered with
| | |scrub.
| | |
_Kukuru_ | 6¾ | 6¾ |Whilst still W. of J. Kukuru, a
| | |few tukls are passed, and shortly
| | |afterwards the road bends
| | |eastwards and enters the village
| | |of Kukuru, which consists of some
| | |50 or 60 tukls. There is a
| | |considerable amount of cultivation
| | |here, but most of it lies S. of
| | |the khor on the Kira road. At the
| | |end of December, 1899, water was
| | |only obtainable from holes in the
| | |bed of the khor, and appears to be
| | |very bad and scarce.
| | |
| | |After crossing the khor the road
| | |runs straight through the bush to
| | |J. Taza, and thence to Khor Baba.
| | |Up to J. Taza the surrounding
| | |country is flat and the bush
| | |thick, and nothing can be seen
| | |from the road, except an
| | |occasional glimpse of a distant
| | |hill. A very small quantity of
| | |water was obtained by digging in
| | |the bed of the _Khor Daru_ on the
| | |24th December, 1899, but four days
| | |later on returning this had dried
| | |up.
| | |
| | |Beyond J. Taza the country is more
| | |undulating, but still covered with
| | |bush, and for the last ½ mile
| | |before Khor Baba it is somewhat
| | |rough.
| | |
_Khor Baba_ | 8¾ | 15½ |Camped here 25th December, 1899. A
| | |tributary of the Khor Tumat about
| | |25 yards broad where crossed by
| | |the road. Good water obtainable,
| | |but getting scarce now. Road
| | |beyond somewhat rough and uneven,
| | |which is caused by the spurs of J.
J. Agaro | 4½ | 20 |Agaro, &c., all of which hills are
| | |left on right. Bush, with no
| | |traces of water, until Khor Sumba
| | |is reached, but J. Agaro is
| | |inhabited by Jebelawin.
| | |
_Khor Sumba_ | 5 | 25 |Crossed three times in the space
| | |of about ½ mile. Probably due to
| | |an S curve in the river and not
| | |three distinct channels. Breadth
| | |of each about 35 yards, but
| | |extremely shallow. Banks very
| | |fertile and a good deal of
| | |cultivation, principally dura.
| | |Good water obtainable here.
| | |
Khor Tumat | 1 | 26 |Road just enters khor, where it is
| | |joined by Khor Kari, but leaves it
| | |again without crossing it. Khor
| | |about 60 yards broad here. No
| | |water visible, but could probably
| | |be obtained by digging, as there
| | |is any quantity just below the
| | |surface about 5 miles further
| | |south. From here to the Khor El
| | |Dahab (Adaba), trees are bigger
| | |and water evidently more
| | |plentiful, with many traces of all
| | |sorts of game.
| | |
_Khor El | 2¾ | 28¾ |Crossed by the road about ½ mile
Dahab_ | | |from its junction with the Khor
| | |Tumat. Water obtainable at
| | |present, but very little and bad.
| | |Road crosses east of J. Farbau,
| | |passing over some of the low
| | |spurs; ground broken and stony.
| | |All traces of water now disappear
| | |and the ordinary bush begins
| | |again. Numerous small khors are
| | |crossed, but all completely dry.
| | |J. Gumbûk is left to the E., and
| | |about 1 mile further on signs of
| | |water are again visible and
| | |cultivation recommences, also two
| | |or three tukls. Henceforward
| | |cultivation is continuous, and
| | |about ¾ mile further on at some
| | |more tukls the road turns abruptly
| | |to the right and runs straight
| | |down to the Khor Tumat.
| | |
_Gezan_ (Water| 8 | 36¾ |Camp here in bed of khor 26th
pool in Khor | | |December, 1899. Water good and
Tumat) | | |plentiful but below surface.
| | |
| | |Milk and other supplies only
| | |obtained with great difficulty.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
39.—GEZAN TO KURMUK, _viâ_ SUDE AND M’NZILA.
BY MAJOR GWYNN, D.S.O., R.E.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Khor Tumat | — | — |Track passes under the northern
| | |foot of J. Gezan. Before reaching
J. Ghezan | 3 | 3 |J. Sude, water is found in Khor
| | |Durin and Khor Gaza. A certain
| | |amount of gold washing is carried
| | |on in both these water courses.
| | |
_J. Sude_ | 12 | 15 |Sude was the site of an old
| | |Egyptian Mamuria. The present Mek
| | |is a Berta and very few of the
| | |natives know Arabic. There is a
| | |good deal of cultivation and
| | |plenty of water is obtainable.
| | |
_M’Nzila_ | 8½ | 23½ |M’Nzila is a large scattered
| | |village to the south, and south of
| | |J. M’Nzila a great deal of ground
| | |is under cultivation. The leading
| | |men, most of whom are Jaalin who
| | |established themselves there in
| | |the Dervish time, are prosperous.
| | |Road from Sude to M’Nzila very
| | |rough and bad, good water in the
| | |Khor Goga near its source.
| | |
| | |From M’Nzila there is a fair,
| | |though very hilly, road leading
| | |west over the north shoulder of J.
| | |M’Nzila and south of J. Tone. A
| | |very deep ravine runs along the
| | |south side of J. M’Nzila into the
| | |valley between Dul and Kurmuk.
| | |
| | |The descent into the valley just
| | |north of J. Tone is very steep.
| | |
_Sh. Adingam’s| 5½ | 29 |At the bottom of the valley is Sh.
Village_ | | |Adingam’s village, where there is
| | |a good water supply.
| | |
| | |Crossing the valley to J. Kurmuk
| | |several gold washings are passed
| | |near the foot of J. Dish.
| | |
| | |The Kurmuk village is very small
| | |and there is little cultivation.
| | |
| | |The road from Sh. Adingam’s is
| | |very bad and stony till clear of
| | |the hills. Then there is flat,
| | |thickly wooded country.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
40.—GULE TO RENK.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, FEBRUARY, 1902.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gule (Rest | — | — |The track to Renk leaves Gule in
house) | | |an easterly direction and for the
| | |first mile traverses cultivation,
| | |two small Selim Arab encampments
| | |are passed on the right hand;
| | |thick forest at once begins,
| | |composed chiefly of 30 feet high
| | |talh, hashab, nagba, kadad,
| | |soffar, &c., and there is a large
| | |amount of the (to camels) deadly
| | |poisonous hekabit. At this time of
| | |year the grass and undergrowth is
| | |burnt, but the trees are so
| | |thick[23] that they prohibit
| | |marching at night unless with a
| | |good moon. Riding a horse or mule
| | |one is far less inconvenienced
| | |than if on a camel. There are
| | |fairly frequent open spaces
| | |suitable for camping grounds.
| | |
| 21 | 21 |The dense forest ceases and more
| | |or less scattered and much lower
| | |bush takes its place.
| | |
| 5 | 26 |The country through which the
| | |track leads becomes practically
| | |open.
| | |
| 1½ | 27½ |A broad, ill-defined depression,
| | |probably a marsh in rains.
| | |
| 5 | 32½ |Tall and rather close kittr
| | |commences interfering somewhat
| | |with progress.
| | |
| 2½ | 35 |The tall kittr ceases and country
| | |becomes open.
| | |
Khor Deleib or| 2 | 37 |A khor, 15 yards wide and 10 feet
El Sunt | | |deep is crossed, also known as
| | |Deleib.
| | |
| 1 | 38 |Kittr bush commences and continues
| | |for about 2 miles, not very dense.
| | |
| 4½ | 42½ |Dense tall kittr commences,
| | |considerably retarding progress,
| | |and lasts for 2½ miles.
| | |
| 2½ | 45 |Country becomes open and
| | |cultivation is passed on left.
| | |
| 1 | 46 |Sheikh Bakhit’s (Dinka) rain
| | |village is passed and the road now
| | |runs along the side of a low,
| | |sandy ridge dotted with heglig
| | |trees, cultivation, and several
| | |Dinka villages.
| | |
| 1 | 47 |Dinka village on right.
| | |
| 1 | 48 |Dinka village on left.
| | |
Khor Deleib or| 4½ | 52½ |Khor El Sunt is recrossed in two
El Sunt | | |branches.
| | |
Sheikh’s | ½ | 53 |Sheikh Aweir Wad El Rung head
village | | |Sheikh at Renk.
| | |
Village | 1½ | 54½ |Village.
| | |
_Meshra Renk_ | 1 | 55½ |Inspector’s and police houses on
| | |bank of White Nile. Headquarters
| | |of District. P.T.O.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
41.—JEBELEIN TO RENK (R.B.).
BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, MARCH, 1902.
-----------+-----------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
+-------------+---------+
Place. | | Total | Description.
|Intermediate.| from |
| |Khartoum.|
-----------+-------------+---------+----------------------------------
Khartoum | — | — |
| | |
_Jebelein_ | 225 | 225 |Country round Jebelein is grass
| | |with laot and kittr bush in thick
| | |patches. River here 600 yards wide
| | |(dry season), rocks showing river
| | |in places. For first mile or two
| | |after leaving Jebelein open grass
| | |plain on E. of track, kittr bush
| | |beyond. A few heglig trees between
| | |track and river.
| | |
Sherif | 2½ | 227½ |Name of spot only; this name
| | |applies to country next two miles.
| | |
Wad Nimol | 3½ | 231 |
Island | | |
| | |
Um Romad | 3½ | 234½ |End of district of this name which
| | |begins where Sherif ends.
| | |
_Maghaba_ | 1½ | 236 |District only; no inhabitants. N.
| | |end of Bulli Island begins and
| | |track along khor which forms it,
| | |water only in places in khor.
| | |
Awad El | 2½ | 238½ |Khor and small hill of this name.
Kerim | | |Road alternately good and bad from
| | |kittr bush.
| | |
Debba Goda | 3½ | 242 |J. Abu Garud and Jebelein last
| | |visible from here; Sheikhs Tomb on
| | |bare hill 50 feet high.
| | |
Debba El | 2¼ | 244¼ |Small khor; ground slightly
Ghoda | | |undulating and rising inland.
| | |
Ganus | 8½ | 252¾ |Bare, open high “debba” 50 feet
| | |above track, no inhabitants, only
| | |a name.
| | |
| | |No huts or signs of permanent
| | |habitations; a few Baggara
_Karshawal_| 9¼ | 262 |“rakubas.” End of Bulli Island.
| | |
_Old camp_ | 3½ | 265½ |Old entrenched camp about 80 yards
| | |by 30 yards on rising ground 200
| | |yards from river on right hand
| | |side of track, good meshra.
| | |
| | |Going bad on account of kittr.
| | |This is last water before reaching
Karshawal | 2 | 267½ |Agang as river makes a bend
Island | | |westwards.
| | |
_Agang_ | 13 | 280½ |Dinka villages of Nyitau and
| | |Manjak, generally called Agang.
| | |
_Renk_ | 3 | 283½ |Good meshra. Police Post.
| | |Mosquitoes here are very bad.
| | |Advisable to encamp inland near
| | |Dinka villages. Telegraph and Post
| | |office here.
-----------+-------------+---------+----------------------------------
42.—RENK TO KAKA OLD WOOD STATION (HELLET EL NYAM NYAM), R. B.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT, MARCH, 1902.
[Sidenote: General.]
The road described below runs along the river bank, or the banks of
khors adjoining the river. Since the erection of the telegraph line
(1903), the road along the line is the more generally used, being
more direct. In the rains, a road running from Renk to Goz Kash Kash
thence to Awitong is said to be the one used—this road probably
leaves the river about 8-10 miles to the W.
-----------+-----------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
+-------------+---------+
Place. | | Total | Description.
|Intermediate.| from |
| |Khartoum.|
-----------+-------------+---------+----------------------------------
Khartoum | — | — |
| | |
_Renk_ | 283½ | 283½ |A meshra on the W. Nile with
| | |inspector’s house and police
| | |tukls. The road at first leads in
| | |a S.E. direction, and after 2
Khor Deleib| 2 | 285½ |miles Khor Deleib 30 feet wide and
| | |about 6 to 10 feet deep is
| | |crossed. Another smaller khor, a
| | |branch of Deleib, is crossed ½
| ¾ | 286¼ |mile further on. The road now runs
| | |alongside a wide khor or branch of
| | |the Nile named Gaza El Abiad. The
| | |track to Gule branches off in a
| | |S.E. direction. Numerous Dinka
| | |villages are passed about a mile
| | |E. of the road (which is excellent
| | |going), and continue at intervals
| | |until after passing Sheikh Bakhit
| | |Niok’s (a released slave from
Warrit | 9 | 295¼ |Cairo) village Warrit ½ mile E. A
| | |few Shilluk villages are passed on
| | |the island called Wad Ab Kona,
| | |formed by Khor Gaza El Abiad and
| | |White Nile. This khor at High Nile
| | |is probably 300 yards to 600 yards
| | |wide, but now (March) it is
| | |nowhere more than 300 and fordable
| | |nearly everywhere. There are many
| | |wild fowl on it. S. of Warrit the
| | |people are mostly Selim Baggara
| | |living in temporary encampments
| | |about a mile inland for the
| | |grazing.
| | |
_Um | 11¼ | 306½ |The encampments now cease and the
Hedeida_ | | |water in the khor gradually
| | |decreases until at Um Hedeida,
| | |water is stagnant and only in
| | |small quantities. The country on
| | |E. of track which always follows
| | |the eastern bank of khor, is
| | |covered with 3 feet high grass
| | |(where not burnt), and scattered
| | |bush and no signs of cultivation
| | |are visible.
| | |
| 3 | 309½ |Water reappears in the khor, and
| | |there are Selim encampments to the
| | |E. of the track.
| | |
_Leungtom | 3½ | 313 |At meshra Leungtom (Dinka) or
or Domaia_ | | |Domaia (Arab) the Nile is
| | |approached again for the first
| | |time since Renk. About 1½ miles
| | |inland are the villages of Kolang,
| | |El Wat, &c., under Sheikh Salem
| | |Banga (also a released slave from
| | |Cairo). A certain amount of
| | |cultivation is visible and the
| | |country is tolerably open. Soon
| | |after leaving the meshra, the
| | |track follows the eastern bank of
| | |a khor resembling Gaza El Abiad.
| | |The Arab name for it varies with
| | |the districts it traverses. The
| | |Dinka name was not obtained. On
| | |the W. of the track is a fringe of
| | |thick talh bush, to the E. the
| | |country is fairly open.
| | |
Debba El | 4 | 317 |The first dom palms are met here.
Zawia | | |This Debba is the commencement of
| | |the Nabagaia district.
| | |
Dinka | 2½ | 319½ |A village, Anok, belonging to
village, | | |Agweim Dinkas, is passed about ¾
Anok | | |miles to E. on a slight elevation
| | |and thick talh bush commences on
| | |both sides of the track. This
| | |village appears to depend on the
| | |river for its water supply.
| | |
| | |The bush gradually develops into
| | |talh and heglig forest. There is
| | |good shade all along the khor and
| | |the track, as it has been
| | |throughout, is excellent; the
| | |trees along the route cause little
| | |inconvenience.
| | |
_Tereiba_ | 9 | 328½ |Nabagaia district ends and Tereiba
(Arab) | | |begins, and is marked by the
| | |reappearance of dom palms.
| | |
| 2 | 330½ |An excellent mid-day camping
| | |ground, good shade and water in
| | |the khor. J. Ahmed Agha is visible
| | |from near here.
| | |
Debba | 3 | 333½ |Dense forest continues until
Ibrahim | | |reaching this slight elevation
Sharak | | |(called after a man who was killed
(Arab) | | |by an elephant here), and
| | |commences again after about a mile
_El Ragal_ | — | — |of open ground, and the district
(Arab) | | |of El Ragal (Arab) begins, and the
| | |khor now takes that name.
| | |
Track | 2½ | 336 |A track branches off eastwards and
leading to | | |is said to lead to a Dinka village
Kash Kash | | |or district called Kash Kash 15-20
(Arab and | | |miles from the river. There are
Dinka) | | |said to be wells there. The bush
| | |or forest after leaving Debba
| | |Ibrahim Sharak up to this point is
| | |unpleasantly thick, especially for
| | |night travelling, but here the
| | |bush ceases to cause any
| | |inconvenience.
| | |
Goz Abu | 3¾ | 339¾ |A slight elevation; a mile further
Teiba | | |on the road was left and Khor
| | |Sangeir about 100 yards wide and
Khor | ¾ | 340½ |now (March) dry, was crossed.
Sangeir or | | |
Rau | | |
| | |
| | |This khor would probably be a
| | |considerable obstacle in the
| | |rains, and would have to be
| | |crossed some distance up. After a
| | |good rainy season the people in
| | |the neighbourhood of Mabiu, which
| | |is about 15 miles further up are
| | |said to drink from it until well
| | |on into the dry season. A mile
Khor | 1 | 341½ |further on Khor Messangeir or
Messangeir | | |Mariu, or Balantega, a rather
| | |smaller khor is crossed. J. Ahmed
_J. Ahmed | 1 | 342½ |Agha or Biba about 300 feet above
Agha_ or | | |the plain. There are several Dinka
_Biba_ | | |and Selim Arab villages in the
| | |neighbourhood, but no one lives
| | |here during the rains. The Dinkas
| | |then retire inland and the Arabs
| | |to districts N. of the fly limit.
| | |From Ahmed Agba there is a little
| | |used track to Jebel Ulu Gerauit,
| | |which is visible from the top of
| | |the Jebel, and is described as
| | |being distant two days without
| | |water. Sheikh Jok is the Dinka
| | |Sheikh here and Akwé acts for him
| | |when absent. There are many dom
| | |palms around the Jebel. Water is
| | |obtained from Khor Biba or Ahmed
| | |Agha, the river which here bends
| | |S.W., is about 1 mile W. of it.
| | |
Heglig or | 3 | 345½ |Is the name of the district which
Tau | | |extends for about 6 miles opposite
| | |to Gezira Wad Beiker on the
Gezira Wad | 2 | 347½ |northern end of which is a Shilluk
Beiker | | |village Edor Gamoia. Marbeit
| | |(Arab) or Shakab (Dinka) is the
Edor Gamoia| — | — |name of the next district.
| | |
_Marbeit_ | 2½ | 350 |
or _Shakab_| | |
| | |
| 1½ | 351½ |The road which has been skirting
| | |the branch of the Nile (about 30
| | |yards wide) for about the last 4
| | |miles now ceases to do so, and a
| | |grassy plain which at High Nile
| | |must be a swamp intervenes between
| | |it and the river.
| | |
Ial Gamus | — | — |A Shilluk village on the island.
| | |The Sheikh after whom the village
| | |is named, is a refugee from Cairo.
| | |
Kwé | 4½ | 356 |A Dinka Farikh.
| | |
Alumbul | ½ | 356½ |Sheikh Ajak’s village. The country
| | |round is fairly open, scattered
| | |kitr and naal grass. Both these
| | |villages are under the control of
| | |Sheikh Salem Banga of El Wat.
| | |
_Meshra | 1½ | 358 |The meshra extends for about 2
Zeraf_ | | |miles; the road skirts the river
| | |and crosses a wide, shallow khor
Farlegh | 2 | 360 |called a Farlegh or Rigl by the
Meshra | | |Arabs. It is said to come from
Zeraf or | | |near Aturuk.
Makwé | | |
| | |
_Rom | 3 | 363 |Dinka villages named Rom under
(Dinka)_ or| | |Sheikh Jok. The district is known
_Um Gursan_| | |by the Arabs as Um Gursan, the
| | |track from Renk to this point is
| | |as a rule excellent, but from here
| | |to Kaka it is generally bad,
| | |passing over very hard caked and
| | |badly cracked cotton soil.
| | |
| 2 | 365 |Fine kuk and other trees are
| | |passed. The small black fly was
| | |exceptionally bad here in the
| | |early morning and attacked the
| | |camels in swarms.
| | |
Tereiti | 4 | 369 |The district of Tereiti begins.
| | |Ardeib El Miriam (Arab) is the
| | |district on opposite bank.
| | |
_Meshra | 3 | 372 |Meshra Rom or Tereiti.
Rom_ or | | |
_Tereiti_ | | |
| | |
Dinka | 3 | 375 |Villages belonging to Adeir
villages, | | |Dinkas. River about 1 mile E. of
Fil and | | |track, to the W. the country is
Ajak | | |more or less open with patches of
| | |bush and trees in places.
| | |
Dinka | 7 | 382 |Villages under Sheikh Akol Wad
villages, | | |Ashol.
Nakwé and | | |
Fithi | | |
| | |
Jung Yom | ¾ | 382¾ |Dinka villages under Akol. The
| | |river is now about 2 miles away,
| | |right of road.
| | |
Debba | 1¼ | 384 |Arab name for knoll on right of
Shagerat | | |point where road bends westwards
| | |and crosses a marshy (in rains)
Debeik | 2 | 386 |plain to Sheikh Akol’s village
| | |about 1 mile from river opposite
_Shagerat | — | — |Kaka, where there are many Shilluk
El Ashera_ | | |villages. The Arab name for this
or _Loing | | |marshy district is Shagerat El
Shuk_ | | |Ashera, and Dinka Loing Shuk.
(opposite | | |
Kaka) | | |
| | |
| | |Skirting an open marshy (in rains)
| | |plain on right and following line
| | |of trees on left, Dinka village
Ajok | 2¾ | 388¾ |named Ajok is reached. Tracks now
| | |become numerous and ill defined,
| | |and one was followed which led
| | |across an open marshy (in rains)
| | |plain to the Nile 2 miles N. of
| | |Kaka, wood station, known as
_Kaka, old | 6¼ | 405 |Hellet El Nyam Nyam; the village
wood | | |is situated close to the river
station_ | | |bank.
-----------+-------------+---------+----------------------------------
43.—RENK TO OPPOSITE KODOK (DUNJOL) (R. B.).
BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, DECEMBER, 1902, JANUARY AND FEBRUARY, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Renk | — | — |Track taken depends on the time of
| | |the year. Up to January inland
| | |track must be followed owing to
| | |water on the lower.
| | |
Telegraph Hill| 1 | 1 |On sandy hill near river; village
| | |of Abd El Salam, a refugee Dinka
| | |from Bahr El Ghazal. From here the
| | |track follows the telegraph line
| | |for some miles.
| | |
Khor Deleib | ½ | 1½ |Merely a dry ditch in the dry
| | |season; another dry branch is
| | |passed about 300 yards further on.
| | |Country here is open grass land;
| | |few small trees.
| | |
| 2½ | 4 |Thin forest of laot thorn bush and
| | |small heglig trees.
| | |
Gaikwach | 3 | 7 |A village of the Aku district,
| | |Sheikh Awat Wad Dual. Another
| | |small village 300 yards further
| | |on.
| | |
| 1½ | 8½ |Position of old Dinka village.
| | |
Kelang | 2½ | 11 |Small village of this name, left.
| | |
Loingwen | ½ | 11½ |Beginning of village of Loingwen,
| | |which comprises five small ones,
| | |all under Sheikh Bakhit Niok. From
| | |here along the lower road there
| | |are no villages before Elwat, and
| | |travellers must halt near water.
| | |
Bangdit | 1½ | 13 |Sandy debba; no habitations. Scene
| | |of a former fight between Dinkas
| | |and Government troops. The track
| | |now descends to the bank of the
| | |khor that divides Island of Gaza-
| | |el-Abiad from the mainland and
| | |runs for the next 5 miles on high
| | |sandy ridge within 500 yards of
| | |the water. Guinea fowl and gazelle
| | |in abundance; a few tetel seen,
| | |and tracks of antelope, hippo, and
| | |buffalo. A good deal of kittr near
| | |track since Bangdit. No large
| | |trees.
| | |
Lardbiu | 2½ | 15½ |Sandy debba on left.
| | |
| 2½ | 18 |Good camping ground.
| | |
Abiad Shwai | 1 | 19 |High sandy debba, which used to be
| | |covered with big tamarind trees
| | |which have now gone. Shortest
| | |track is now along telegraph line,
| | |but is probably impassable in the
| | |rains. Leave khor on right.
| | |Country bushy with small heglig
| | |trees and some kittr.
| | |
| 3¾ | 22¾ |Sandy hill on right. Track now
| | |crosses open plain of black cotton
| | |soil, covered with rank grass.
| | |
_Elwat_ | 5¼ | 28 |Beginning of Elwat, district of
| | |Gi-el. Head Sheikh, Salem Banga.
| | |
| 1 | 29 |Salem’s own village, about 2 miles
| | |from the river. This is the first
| | |meshra since leaving Renk. High
| | |debba between this village and the
| | |river.
| | |
| | |From Elwat the track runs
| | |alternately through open ground
| | |and patches of bush and red talh
| | |to Anak.
| | |
Anak | 5½ | 34½ |Village of Gi-el district. Three
| | |small villages. The local Sheikh
| | |Ayik Wad Dok. Track now runs
| | |through bush and thick forest for
| | |many miles. Lower track deserted
| | |by Dinkas, who follow the line
| | |now, as being shorter.
| | |
Mabiu | 3½ | 38 |High debba on right on edge of
| | |khor. Track along the khor is
| | |close to line here; now get into
| | |the land of big trees.
| | |
Dungbiagadet | 1½ | 39½ |Debba on right.
| | |
Allal | 2½ | 42 |Debba. Beginning of Allal
| | |district, which exists in name
| | |only. Arab name Tereiba. Many
| | |thick dom palms.
| | |
| 1¼ | 43¼ |Debba Allal.
| | |
Ragal | 1¼ | 44½ |Beginning of district of Ragal. No
| | |people.
| | |
Debba Ragal | 1¼ | 45¾ |Debba Ragal, about 200 yards from
| | |khor. Little game seen here,
| | |though plenty of fresh tracks of
| | |elephant, buffalo, &c.
| | |
Kefali | ¼ | 46 |Debba. Many dom palms. This was
| | |site of old Dinka village. Open
| | |park land, which soon changes to
| | |very thick forest; open again
| | |after 1 mile.
| | |
| 2 | 48 |First view of Jebel Ahmed Agha
| | |from track.
| | |
| 1 | 49 |Forest of red talh; old Dinka
| | |elephant pits, and many skulls of
| | |these beasts.
| | |
| 3¼ | 52¼ |Track divides, one going on to the
| | |jebel and the other
| | |eastwards—inland. This latter goes
| | |to the Dinka district of Baanwen,
| | |which lies up Khor Rau. A track
| | |used to exist to Goz Kash-Kash,
| | |but is now said to be “dead.”
| | |
Khor Rau | ¼ | 52½ |Khor Rau, about ¼ mile beyond bend
| | |in the telegraph line; 40-feet
| | |waterway, 3 feet deep; unfordable
| | |for loaded transport animals on
| | |account of mud (December).
| | |
_Jebel Ahmed | 2 | 54½ |The route followed will be seen by
Agha_ | | |comparison to be several miles
| | |shorter than the old track
| | |previously sketched by other
| | |officers. Shortest track is now
| | |along line, though the going on
| | |the lower tortuous native track is
| | |better.
| | |
Goz Unaché | 2¼ | 56¾ |High ridge of ground on left, used
| | |to be thickly populated by Kwach
| | |Dinkas. Whole track is through
| 5¼ | 62 |dense forest of heglig, sidr, kuk,
| | |kittr, and talh, except at Mile
| | |62, where there is a broad open
| | |plain.
| | |
_Meshra Zeraf_| 7⅝ | 69⅝ |Also called Mukhada Zeraf. No
| | |Dinka villages here, though there
| | |are some old cattle zeribas. These
| | |change yearly—last year’s spot was
| | |called Anambul. Some Dinka
| | |refugees are, however, going to
| | |build this year on the meshra,
| | |which is well suited for purposes
| | |of being irrigated by shadufs or
| | |sakias. This is the first meshra
| | |since Elwat, and the last until
| | |Kaka old wood station, though in
| | |the dry season Meshra Rom becomes
| | |a meshra.
| | |
| | |Jungle around Meshra Zeraf is
| | |mostly kittr.
| | |
Khor Makwé | 1¾ | 71⅜ |600-800 yards wide, and even in
| | |dry season impassable, for some
| | |way up. In dry season a track
| | |exists from here to Kaka wood
| | |station by the river bank. The
| | |track to the Dinka villages,
| 4¾ | 76⅛ |however, runs up this khor till
| | |Mile 76⅛, when the track leaves
| | |the khor and runs off southwards
| | |over a grass plain. Khor Makwé
| | |runs on to Aturuk, a deserted
| | |Dinka village.
| | |
Khor Turiak | 1½ | 77⅝ |Track runs along this khor, and 1
| | |mile further on crosses it. Arab
| | |name for this khor is Fo-alig.
| | |
| ¾ | 78⅜ |Enter forest now, which consists
| | |of trees and kittr bush,
| | |alternately with occasional
| | |patches of park-like land, for the
| | |next 7½ miles. Khor Turiak is on
| | |the left of track till spot where
| | |track crosses it, and this khor
| | |winds about on right of track till
| | |Mile 89⅛.
| | |
Gi-ka-kiu | 11¾ | 89⅛ |This is the chief village of Rom,
| | |and this is the name generally
| | |used, though the people speak of
| | |the grazing grounds near the river
| | |as Rom, probably denoting that it
| | |is the grazing of the Rom people.
| | |Sheikh Jok Wad Ageir.
| | |
Debba Fajak | 4 | 93⅛ |Site of old village.
| | |
Kolerang | 1¼ | 94⅝ |Small village, part of Rom.
| | |
Bafing | 1 | 95⅝ |Small village, part of Rom. Trees
| | |on horizon. Cross khor here.
| | |
| 2¾ | 98⅜ |Cattle zeriba left, belongs to
| | |Fiti (_see_ later).
| | |
Gio | 1¼ | 100⅝ |Large village of Gio, of district
| | |of Ageir, also called Faloich
| | |(name of the spot). Village of the
| | |Head Sheikh of Ageir, Akol Wad
| | |Shol. Good wells here that suffice
| | |for the needs of all the
| | |inhabitants all the year round,
| | |but not for all their cattle. From
| | |Gio the track runs W. to Demtemma
| | |along a well-defined ridge for
| | |several miles; villages cluster
| | |thickly along this ridge. Khor
| | |Kayaluk runs on left of track.
| | |
| 1½ | 102⅛ |One of the villages of Beia can be
| | |seen from here left. Trees 2 miles
| | |off right. Thick bush 1 mile left
| | |on other side of khor.
| | |
Debba Mioriak | 2 | 104⅛ |Debba Mioriak on left.
| | |
Ai-yowel | ¾ | 104⅞ |Village of Ageir on right with one
| | |big tree on east edge. Village of
| | |Kil 1½ miles off half-right.
| | |Village of Makwé is behind Kil in
| | |the forest.
| | |
_Jung-yom_ | 1½ | 106⅝ |Village, part of Ageir, on right.
| | |Good wells, ¾ mile off on left in
| | |bed of khor, available at all
| | |period of dry seasons. Travelling
| | |is now most uninteresting, no
| | |villages and hardly a tree to be
| | |seen.
| | |
Debba Fadiet | 4 | 110⅝ |Site of an old village. Vast grass
| | |plain on every side; not a tree or
| | |a bush to be seen, even on the
| | |horizon.
| | |
Debba Fojbe | 3¼ | 113⅞ |Site of another old village.
| | |
_Demtemma_ | 7 | 120⅞ |Situated in belt of trees on river
| | |bank. Was till recently a police
| | |post, but latter has now been
| | |moved to Melut, 3 miles down
| | |stream, to where the telegraph
| | |office is.
| | |
| 1½ | 122⅜ |Track crosses dry khor which would
| | |be a considerable obstacle in the
| | |rains.
| | |
| 1⅝ | 124 |Cattle zeriba of Beia on banks of
| | |Khor Adar—which is 60 yards wide
| | |here and 4 feet deep, muddy
| | |bottom, clean banks. A big debba
| | |on south side of the khor, and 1
| | |mile from the mouth of the khor.
| | |Broad swamp on right of track.
| | |
| 2⅝ | 126⅝ |Track descends to river bank;
| | |thick bush most of the way on left
| | |of track.
| | |
_Tiang-rial_ | 4⅜ | 131 |A cattle zeriba of Beia left.
| | |Backwater or small lake between
| | |track and river. Island in river,
| | |north end.
| | |
| ½ | 131½ |Thick bush left.
| | |
| ½ | 132 |End of backwater. March on river
| | |bank; track winds along river
| | |bank, occasionally through very
| | |bad kittr bush, which can be
| | |avoided in places by marching
| | |along the foreshore.
| | |
| 5⅜ | 137⅜ |Big ardeib tree—conspicuous
| | |landmark; backwater between tree
| | |and river. After 2 miles the bush
| | |ceases, and track lies over an
| | |open grass plain.
| | |
| 4¼ | 141⅝ |Cattle zeriba of village of
| | |Bekjuka (Beia). Name of locality
| | |Niayok. Khor Awilwil starts here
| | |and runs between track and river
| | |all the way to just south of
| | |Fashoda.
| | |
| 1¾ | 143⅜ |Cattle zeriba of Bawen and Addora,
| | |of district of Ni-el. There are
| | |three other zeribas between these
| | |last two points.
| | |
Mialek | 3¾ | 147⅛ |Cattle zeriba of Bawen (Ni-el).
| | |
Fanomdit | 2½ | 149⅝ |Debba and cattle zeriba of
| | |district of Dunjol.
| | |
Faloich | 1 | 150⅝ |Debba and cattle zeriba of Ni-el.
| | |
Wunakoch | ½ | 151⅛ |Cattle zeriba of Dunjol.
| | |
| ¾ | 151⅞ |Cattle zeriba of Bawen. Bush on
| | |right between track and khor.
| | |
Jomweira | — | — |Cattle zeriba of Dunjol 100 yards
| | |further on. Track now crosses
| | |broad shallow khor 2 miles wide.
| | |
| 1 | 152⅞ |Bush right; grass plain left.
| | |
| ½ | 153⅜ |Track enters bush right, leaving
| | |khor left. Forest of red talh and
| | |heglig, which continues 2½ miles
| | |to Mile 157⅛.
| | |
Faldiar Rowe | 3¾ | 157⅛ |Cattle zeriba of Dunjol Track
| | |leaving this zeriba crosses a
| | |shallow khor and passes through a
| | |thin belt of forest on to the bank
| | |of khor.
| | |
_Khor Awilwil_| 1⅛ | 158¼ |Awilwil, from whence Kodok can be
| | |seen for the first time. Track
| | |runs southwards along bank of khor
| | |for ¼ mile, when all bush ceases,
| | |and path is over vast, open,
| | |undulating plain.
| | |
Debba Denkar | ½ | 158¾ |Good high debba.
| | |
| 1⅛ | 159⅞ |Track bifurcates here, one
| | |following khor and going to
| | |Ayung’s zeriba (_see_ later), and
| | |the other running through the
| | |Dinka villages of Dunjol. The
| | |former track is the shorter by 2
| | |or 3 miles.
| | |
Amai-rial | 1¾ | 161⅝ |Village of Dunjol district which
(opposite to | | |is spread over a vast plain
Kodok) | | |opposite Kodok.
| | |
Amaal | 1¼ | 162⅞ |
| | |
Fiuweia | 1⅛ | 164¼ |
| | |
Ateptiap | 3⅜ | 167⅜ |
| | |
Khor Wol | ⅛ | 167½ |Track crosses this khor which has
| | |water in it in pools and
| | |excavations for 10 miles up. Can
| | |be ascended by small steamers at
| | |high Nile. French steamers used to
| | |ascend in 1898.
| | |
| 1⅜ | 168⅞ |Large cattle zeriba of Sheikh
| | |Ayung Wad Agwot, head of Dunjol.
| | |This spot is almost due south of
| | |Kodok. Between the river and this
| | |track is a broad swamp and the
| | |formidable khor Awilwil. From here
| | |a track runs inland through the
| | |remaining villages of Dunjol,
| | |keeping in touch with Khor Awilwil
| | |all the way, passing through or
| | |past the following villages and
| | |places:—
| | |
| | |Mile 2¼. Wunfit, debba with few
| | | trees.
| | |
| | | „ 3¼. Faiung, village.
| | |
| | | „ 4⅜. Wumakoch, village.
| | |
| | | „ 6¼. Tallen, „
| | |
| | | „ 8¼. Fanakwé, „
| | |
| | | „ 9¾. Fakok, „
| | |
| | | „ 10½. Ang-ak, „
| | |
| | | „ 12. Fobodiet, „
| | |
| | | „ 14. Temohuk, „
| | |
| | | „ 16. „
| | |
| | |eventually running to the Sobat
| | |River, which it joins near the
| | |Dinka district of Gnok.
| | |
| 1¼ | 170⅛ |Cattle zeriba of Fakwé.
| | |
Diem Ajak | ¾ | 170⅞ |Debba 600 yards right. Bush
| | |commences 200 yards further on.
| | |Khor Awilwil runs into the Nile
| | |somewhere here by native report.
| | |
| 1¾ | 172⅝ |Cattle zeriba of Fadweia. Track is
| | |good and winds along the khor,
| | |which runs from near where Awilwil
| | |joined the Nile to the south.
| | |
Wuntao | 2¼ | 174⅞ |Cattle zeriba of Dunjol. Name of
| | |the locality as well as the
| | |village to which the people
| | |belong. The Shilluk Mek’s village
| | |is due west.
| | |
Meshra Merial | 2¾ | 177⅝ |Said to be practicable all the
| | |year round as a means of
| | |communication between Dinka and
| | |Shilluk banks. Shilluk village
| | |Kwom opposite. Great numbers of
| | |partridges all along here,
| | |affording excellent sport walking
| | |them up.
| | |
| | |The track along here is all good
| | |going and would be quite passable
| | |in the rains.
| | |
| 2¼ | 179⅞ |Cattle zeriba of Fadok (Dunjol).
| | |
Diwot | 1¼ | 181⅛ |First Shilluk village met with on
| | |this (east) bank. End of the Dinka
| | |country on the river.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
44.—JEBEL AHMED AGHA TO AWITONG AND KASH-KASH.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, JANUARY, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Jebel Ahmed | — | — |The track up Khor Rau runs
Agha | | |northwards for 2 miles and then
| | |crosses the khor, and turning
| 2 | 2 |eastwards follows it closely.
| | |Country well wooded, though in
| | |places the forest gives place to
| | |bush.
| | |
_Gaibek_ | 7¾ | 9¾ |A village of the Dinka district of
| | |Gi-el, sub-division Baanwen. The
| | |whole of this country is in
| | |certain years under water, not
| | |from the local rains, but from the
| | |overflow of Khor Rau, which brings
| | |water down from the Abyssinian
| | |mountains. After such a flood,
| | |extraordinary dura crops are
| | |harvested, being sown as late as
| | |October, when the waters subside.
| | |
_Debba Mabiu_ | 5⅛ | 14⅞ |On R. bank of khor, which is here
| | |some 60 yards wide, with pools of
| | |water in places. Scene of fight
| | |between Dinkas and Government
| | |troops in reign of Said Pasha.
| | |
| ¾ | 15⅝ |Cattle zeriba of Kwach, part of
| | |Gi-el. Lake filled with weeds and
| | |ambach.
| | |
_Birket Rau_ | 1 | 16⅝ |Another cattle zeriba of Kwach,
| | |and just up stream a large open
| | |lake or swamp, filled up with
| | |weeds, &c. Quantities of wildfowl
| | |and snipe; also lion, giraffe and
| | |antelope, all of which were seen.
| | |
| | |From here a track runs inland to
| | |the Dinka villages, and a track
| | |exists up the khor, the ultimate
| | |destination of which it is
| | |impossible to judge from native
| | |reports. Track inland very bad,
| | |cracked cotton soil, and long,
| | |rank, unburnt grass, which, bent
| | |down by the strong north wind,
| | |presents all its spikes at the
| | |face of anyone marching
| | |northwards.
| | |
Awitong | 6 | 22⅝ |Built on a mound which is
| | |surrounded by water in flood
| | |years. Country wooded, small
| | |trees.
| | |
| 3 | 25⅝ |Very fine dura cultivation
| | |extending for miles. Large white
| | |dura; one “head” which was counted
| | |contained 2,600 grains.
| | |
Dry lake | ¾ | 26⅜ |Extends some miles and track winds
| | |along it. Many fruit-bearing sidr
| | |trees in bed of it.
| | |
_Water hole_ | 1 | 27⅜ |Situated in thick forest; Dinkas
| | |in zeriba near here water their
| | |cattle from this and do not go to
| | |river until it is dry. Elephants
| | |had drunk here the previous night.
| | |
Woniat | ¾ | 28⅛ |Cattle zeriba of these Dinkas.
| | |From here a good track goes to
| | |Jebel Gerawi, two days’ march; no
| | |water to be got on route.
| | |
Debba Fobung | 2¼ | 30⅜ |High sandy debba, from here a
| | |small hill can be seen, Jokdit,
| | |direction was pointed out by a
| | |Dinka up a tree; bearing 355°.
| | |
| ¼ | 30⅝ |_Water hole_ at N., foot of debba,
| | |dries up latter on.
| | |
| | |Track is now excellent, running
| | |through sandy goz, ground high and
| | |forest of fine trees (sabakh).
| | |This road is passable all through
| | |the rains, and devoid of long
| | |grass and mud. Leads to Renk.
| | |
| 1 | 31⅝ |Two small dry ponds.
| | |
_Goz Kash- | 2¼ | 33⅞ |Heavy sandy ground; very fine
Kash_ | | |forest of big trees. Six wells dug
| | |in the sand, water said to be
| | |available all the year round. One
| | |huge ardeib tree by wells. Many
| | |trees called “dorod” by Arabs,
| | |“gia” by Dinkas. An old track runs
| | |to the river on the Ahmed
| | |Agha—Renk road, which it joins at
| | |the spot where the old Dinka
| | |elephant pits are, but it is now
| | |disused and choked with grass.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
45.—ITINERARY UP KHOR ADAR.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, JANUARY, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Mouth of Khor | — | — |Khor at mouth is about 40 yards
Adar | | |wide and several feet deep, the
| | |depth being, from about 100 yards
| | |up-stream, uniformly 4 to 5 feet.
| | |Dinkas say there is a current in
| | |the rains.
| | |
| 1¼ | 1¼ |Cattle zeriba of Beia R.; bank;
| | |big Debba L.
| | |
| ¾ | 2 |Cross a small khor that runs in
| | |from N.
| | |
| 3¾ | 5¾ |Cattle zeriba on left bank. Khor
| | |bends off to the R., and is joined
| 1 | 6¾ |again at 6¾ miles, when track
| | |follows it. Cattle zeriba on L.
| | |bank ¾ mile away. Country is open
| | |grass plain, except close to mouth
| | |of khor where it is wooded, and a
| | |few patches of scrub here and
| | |there along the banks.
| | |
| 1 | 7¾ |Cattle zeriba Beia on R. bank.
| | |Khor bends off and is joined again
| 2 | 9¾ |at 9¾ miles, from where it makes a
| | |big bend southwards, and is not
| | |seen again till Rengachuk is
| | |passed.
| | |
| | |Going so far very bad over much
| | |cracked soil and few shade trees.
| | |
| | |Track now runs over a rank grass
| | |plain to the first Dinka village
| | |at
| | |
Tedao | 8½ | 18¼ |District of Beia; Sheikh Amwot wad
| | |Aiwel. From here villages can be
| | |seen ahead on all sides. Few
| | |trees, practically a vast plain,
| | |intersected with depressions that
| | |in the dry seasons are hard to
| | |define, and which in the rains
| | |might be serious obstacles.
| | |
Bekjuka | 2½ | 20¾ |Another village of Beia.
| | |
Abai-at | 2¼ | 23 |Village of Ni-el; mostly cattle
| | |thieves.
| | |
Jokdwet | 1¾ | 24¾ |Village of Jokdwet, of district
| | |Ni-el.
| | |
Wuntao | 1¾ | 26½ | „ „ „ „
| | |
| 2½ | 29 |Fairly thick trees and bush
| | |lasting 1 mile.
| | |
Rengachuk | 5¼ | 34¼ |Village of Ni-el, of the Addora
| | |people. Consists of two portions.
| | |From here track runs down to khor
| | |again.
| | |
| 2½ | 36¾ |At this point the khor is of
| | |greater dimensions than at the
| | |mouth, being 60 yards and 5 to 6
| | |feet deep; choked however with
| | |long reeds and sudd.
| | |
| ¾ | 37½ |Track here crosses a small khor,
| | |dry in January.
| | |
Khor Niagweia | ¼ | 37¾ |This is another important khor
| | |that is reported to come from the
| | |Burun country, but it was reported
| | |dry a few miles up (January,
| | |1903). It is probably the khor
| | |shown on some maps as “Ez Zamma,”
| | |a name which is not recognised by
| | |any inhabitants, 60 to 100 yards
| | |wide and 4 to 5 feet deep.
| | |
| | |Track now runs through jungle for
| | |3 miles.
| | |
Khor Adar | 7¾ | 45½ |Khor Adar is met here again,
| | |having, since fording Khor
| | |Niagweia, been on the R. at
| | |varying distances. Track now
| | |follows it. Country here is very
| | |uninteresting, no game and few
| | |trees, but the ever present long
| | |grass. Path meets the khor at
| | |
Raduk | ¼ | 45¾ |Width here 40 yards, depth 4 feet;
| | |track cuts across a bend and meets
| | |khor at
| | |
Gwatan | 3¼ | 49 |Cattle zeriba of Ni-el; people
| | |mostly wanted by the police, and
| | |who have retired to a safe
| | |distance. Khor close on L.
| | |
| 2¼ | 51¼ |Track crosses a khor that is dry
| | |100 yards up.
| | |
| | |Many elephant tracks on edge of
| | |khor, but made in the rains. From
| | |here a track exists through a
| | |country of unburnt elephant grass,
| | |the actual ground being well-nigh
| | |impassable, being ploughed up by
| | |elephants, and overgrown with a
| | |tangle of vegetation, through
| | |which nothing but fire or
| | |elephants could make a path.
| | |Looking from the top of an high
| | |ant-heap, the country is seen to
| | |be more wooded inland.
| | |
Khor Benatat | 7 | 58¼ |Is said to join Khor Adar about 7
| | |miles up. Dinkas also state that
| | |two other khors joins Khor Adar
| | |ahead, one from S. Khor Aturuk,
| | |and one from N. Khor Fao-eng.
| | |
| | |From here to the Nuer country is
| | |variously described as being from
| | |2 to 5 days.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
46.—J. JEROK, _viâ_ J. ERI, KILWEGA, TO WAD DELUKA (ABOUT 52
MILES S.E. OF MELUT).
BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, MAY 1904.
N.B.—This is not a route that is much used, but it was opened up
by cutting the bush, etc., in May, 1904, with a view to its possibly
being suitable as a trade route from Beni Shangul to the White Nile
at Melut. The going is nearly all over bad cotton soil and the water
supply is at present very uncertain. It would no doubt be difficult
during the rainy season.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
J. Jerok | — | — |Site of Military Post. From here
| | |route to J. Maiak is that taken by
J. Maiak | 19 | 19 |the Wad Mahmud expedition in
| | |February, 1904. _Water in pools in
| | |Khor Ahmar_ 1½ miles before
| | |reaching this hill.
| | |
_J. Eri_ | 11 | 30 |Pond of rain-water, very
| | |uncertain, about 1½ miles from the
| | |hill.
| | |
_Villages of | 9 | 39 |About 7 miles from Eri, a khor
Gum Gum | | |with rain-water (May) is crossed,
people_ | | |and further on, the villages of
| | |Gum Gum people are reached. They
| | |drink from pools to the east of
| | |Khor Gemmeiza and, at certain
| | |seasons, from rain pools about 1
| | |mile W. of villages.
| | |
_K. Gemmeiza_ | 8 | 47 |Water in pool in khor. A rain pool
| | |is passed about 4 miles further
_Kilwega_ | 7 | 54 |on, and the villages of Burun from
| | |Gum Gum, called Kilwega, are
| | |reached.
| | |
| | |K. Gemmeiza now runs, in a very
| | |winding bed, a mile or two to the
| | |south of and parallel to the
| | |track. A path has been cut to a
| | |watering place in the khor, called
_Sami_ (K. | 10 | 64 |Sami. Past old burnt village of
Gemmeiza) | | |Kurara Buruns, who now occupy
| | |village on new road-cultivation
| | |here, and water used by people
| | |from J. Ulu in dry season. Khor
| | |very narrow and covered up with
| | |willows; on both sides are swamps.
| | |Khor losing traces of sand. Two
| | |water holes here could be much
| | |improved.
| | |
| | |From Sami, track cut along high
| | |ground until Ulu track is met,
| | |going to
| | |
Khamiret El | 14 | 78 |Khamiret El Tin, about 4 miles
Tin | | |off. This is a good track and much
| | |used but very tortuous, and
| | |follows along ridge of high
| | |ground. Before this, at 3rd mile,
| | |a track from Ulu to Um Adil on
| | |Khor Sami is crossed; this is
| | |apparently called Um Ebeil on
| | |Pruyssenaere’s route.
| | |
| | |About one hour from Khamiret El
| | |Tin, track leaves khor and goes
| | |along a depression in which, later
| | |on, the 7 _Hafiras_ of Khamiret El
| | |Tin village are. These are roofed-
| | |in ponds of marsh water and
| | |zeribaed to prevent animals, etc.,
| | |drinking; water unpleasant; 5 of
| | |these now full of water.
| | |
| | |There are two water holes in Khor
| | |Sida, which is the same as Khor
| | |Sami, S.W. of village and used by
| | |some people who live there. This
Khamiret El | 6 | 84 |is better water. From here 6 miles
Kurda | | |off is Khamiret El Kurda; people
| | |from here now drink at Kumara
| | |Hellet Bishara. These villages are
| | |under Sheikh Ata Mannan.
| | |
_Kumara Hellet| 7 | 91 |Khor, after Khamiret El Kurda, as
Bishara_ | | |also here, goes into Farashes and
| | |is apparently lost.
| | |
Hellet Bitter | 12 | 103 |From here, 12 miles, general
| | |direction S., is Hellet Bitter;
| | |water not obtainable here all the
| | |year round; people drink at
| | |Bishara, etc., according to time
| | |of year.
| | |
Hellet Banjom | 6 | 109 |No water here at present; road bad
| | |going.
| | |
Wad Deluka | 14 | 123 |About 14 miles off, in S.W.
| | |direction. Water here in two
| | |wells, one has fallen in.
| | |
Melut | 52 (?) | 175 |On the White Nile.
| | (?) |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
47.—URYONG ON THE SOBAT TO THE WHITE NILE OPPOSITE KODOK.
BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN, C.M.G., D.S.O.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Uryong | — | — |Uryong is a small Dinka village on
| | |the right bank. From this point
| | |there is a much used short cut
| | |straight across to Kodok. The road
| | |from Uryong as far as the
| | |beginning of the Dunjol villages
| | |must be almost entirely under
| | |water at high Nile, but even then
| | |the Dinkas can find the track,
| | |which is marked here and there by
| | |small mud heaps. In the dry season
| | |from Uryong to Dunjol is generally
| | |traversed by night, as there is no
| | |water obtainable till the Dunjol
| | |wells are reached. From Uryong the
| | |road traverses open marsh land for
| | |about 2½ miles and then enters a
| | |belt of thick white thorn about 3
| | |miles wide. After this the country
| | |gets more and more bare, and for
| | |the last half of the way to Dunjol
| | |there are no trees at all.
| | |
_Dunjol_ | 31 | 31 |At Dunjol there are a number of
| | |Dinka villages which stretch north
| | |along a very shallow khor, in
| | |which wells are sunk some 30 feet
| | |deep in the black clay. They are
| | |revetted with grass.
| | |
| | |The tree belt near the Nile is
| | |visible from these villages, and
| | |there are many paths leading off
| | |it. After following the line of
| | |the khor for about 5 miles, the
| | |road strikes off towards the Nile
_Village_ | 9 | 40 |and passes through a village which
| | |draws its water from the Nile,
| | |then it turns north again and
_Village_ | 6 | 46 |passes through another village
| | |before descending into the marsh
| | |ground flooded at high Nile.
| | |
Opposite Kodok| 2 | 48 |The road from Dunjol to this last
| | |village is sandy, and would
| | |probably be generally dry.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
[Footnote 20: For description, _vide_ Part I, p. 119.]
[Footnote 21: In 1904, there was a small village and well at
J. Mazmum.]
[Footnote 22: A road has been cut (1904) direct from Agadi to Gule.]
[Footnote 23: A good deal, if not all, of this wad has been cleared
(1904).]
CHAPTER VI.
(SOUTH-EASTERN SUDAN.)
* * * * *
48.—NASSER TO URYONG.[24]
BY MAJOR GWYNN, C.M.G., D.S.O., FEBRUARY, 1901.
There is a good road in the dry season from Nasser down the Sobat.
Practically no supplies can be obtained from natives, but guinea fowl
are common and gazelle can generally be shot. There are generally
plenty of trees and bush as far as Nyakwoik, but after entering the
Dinka country the only trees which are seen are a few grown in the
villages for shade. The Dinkas carry charcoal long distances for fuel.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Right bank, | — | — |Starting on right bank, opposite
opposite | | |Nasser, the following villages
Nasser | | |were passed on the north bank:—
| | |
Tawba | 9 | 9 | }
| | | }
Nyakwoik | 3 | 12 | } Small Nuer villages.
| | | }
Gau | 3 | 15 | }
| | |
Shillup (1st | 1½ | 16½ |From this point a waterless road
camp) | | |strikes straight to Fashoda, 3
| | |days’ march for natives.
| | |
Ford Kofiat | 2 | 18½ |At Kofiat the river was forded.
(Sheikh Akol) | | |About 3 feet deep and 200 yards
| | |wide. Exit on south bank bad, but
| | |bottom firm and good. The road on
| | |the north bank was said to be
| | |overgrown, and there was little
| | |sign of inhabitants on the south
Nyanlang | 3½ | 22 |bank; cutting across a large
| | |bend, came to Nyanlang, Fauwel,
Fauwel | ½ | 22½ |and Nyandeng; the latter is a
| | |small village near a dry shallow
Nyandeng (2nd | 3 | 25½ |drainage khor. Thick bush and bad
camp) | | |mosquitoes.
| | |
Minchom | 2¼ | 27¾ |Thence cutting another bend
| | |through Minchom, striking the
Twednyang | 2¾ | 30½ |river again at Twednyang.
| | |
Ashol | ½ | 31 |Thence striking across bend
| | |through Ashol, to Abong, thence to
Abong | 1½ | 32½ |Patiyam, which is the last Nuer
| | |village; now enter the Nyuak
| | |district of Amol.
| | |
Patiyam | 1½ | 34 |
| | |
Gehinyar | 3 | 37 |The first Nyuak village, on the
| | |river bank.
| | |
Reitsum | 2¾ | 39¾ |Thence following the river through
| | |dry marsh, strike across bend
Malwal (3rd | 3¼ | 43 |through Fedwil.
camp) | | |
| | |
Fedwil | 1¼ | 44¼ |Sheikh Gwat’s.
| | |
Bwoilbang | ¾ | 45 |To Bwoilbang.
| | |
Wegin | 2 | 47 |At Wegin reach river again
| | |opposite marshy island and keep
| | |along bank.
| | |
Shwai | 2 | 49 |Leave river again at Shwai, and
| | |thence to Fatiwanyang, the
Fatiwanyang | 3¾ | 52¾ |residence of Sheik Aiwel, who is
| | |very friendly to the Government.
| | |There are a number of elephant
| | |near his village. Leave the river
| | |and skirt a swampy district. Some
| | |cattle.
| | |
Yakwoik | 5½ | 58¼ |Yakwoik is a few miles up stream
| | |of Major Austin’s base camp, which
4th camp | 1¼ | 59½ |however was not seen. From here
| | |strike across a big bend; no water
| | |obtainable till river is reached
| | |again, after a march of 12 miles.
Wangnait (5th | 17 | 76½ | All trees cease near Wangnait,
camp), Sheikh | | |which is the 1st Dinka village,
Bang | | |and is one of a large group of
| | |villages.
| | |
Gobtoing | 3 | 79½ |Thence cutting across a series of
| | |small bends to Gobtoing; thence to
| | |
Tubu | 3 | 82½ |Tubu, Sheikh Lual’s; thence to
| | |
Adong | 3½ | 86 |Adong,
| | |
Dud | 1½ | 87½ |Dud, and
| | |
Uryong | 2½ | 90 |Uryong. Awut, an old woman, is
| | |Sheikha of Uryong.
| | |
Ford (6th | 1½ | 91½ |There is a ford 1 mile below here.
camp) | | |Village at the head of the island,
| | |crossing 4 feet deep.
| | |
Uryong | ½ | 92 |On the opposite bank is the 2nd
| | |village of Uryong, from which runs
| | |the direct road to Kodok (48
| | |miles), _vide_ Route 47.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
49.—GOKJAK TO KEIK.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, APRIL AND MAY, 1902.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gokjak | — | — |Small compact village on left bank
| | |of Sobat, good dry banks, few
| | |trees. Track from Gokjak runs over
| | |open plain, very bad going, black
| | |cotton soil; large cracks in
| | |ground, making it difficult for
| 1½ | 1½ |transport animals. Khor 100 yards
| | |wide, running parallel to river,
| | |dry in April; track continuous
| | |over open grass plain, mostly
| | |burnt in dry season, and no trees
| | |except one or two solitary ones to
| | |
_Shol Ajik_ | 7 | 8½ |Small Dinka village on right bank
| | |of Khor Filus, which runs from
| | |here to its mouth (10 miles from
| | |mouth of Sobat); khor dried up
| | |into pools, water muddy; few trees
| | |in village, also Sheikh’s tomb
| | |with huge elephant tusk. The
| | |tracks run on to M’Yolga; inland
| | |track the better, alternative
| | |track follows and passes under
| | |large trees for 3 miles; track bad
| | |to
| | |
M’Yolga | 8½ | 17 |Long straggling Dinka villages on
| | |Khor Filus, water in pools, fair;
| | |many water-fowl. Sheikhs Ayung Yor
| | |and Agweir Owawe. Track now winds
| | |about the end of M’Yolga district.
| | |Two small villages on khor, and 2
| 4 | 21 |miles further on enters bush of
| | |red talh, which leaves and crosses
| | |grass plain after 1½ miles, and
| | |rejoins khor 3 miles further on.
| | |_Water available_, banks of khor
| | |thickly wooded with thorn bush; a
| | |few good trees.
| | |
| 7 | 28 |Small ferik, or cattle village, in
| | |dry season. These feriks are all
| | |same type, dome-shaped grass
| | |tukls, with open spaces with pegs
| | |for picketing cattle, &c. Some
| | |have zeribas.
| | |
_Gekrek_ | 3 | 31 |Name of locality; good camping
| | |ground on left of khor, which is
| | |easily crossed in dry season; 2
| | |feet of water covered with matted
| | |weeds, water fair; ground
| | |gradually becoming more wooded;
| | |heglig and gemmeiza.
| | |
Adodit | 2¼ | 33¼ |Name of locality; khor twists
| | |about considerably; track cuts
| | |across a corner here, and joins
| | |khor again after 2 miles, and
| | |continues to
| | |
Biar | 6½ | 39¾ |Name of locality; country between
| | |M’Yolga and Nerol uninhabited,
| | |being a “no man’s land” between
| | |Dinkas and Nuers; men of one tribe
| | |crossing to territory of other
| | |tribe do not return as a rule.
| | |
| 4 | 43¾ |Small khor, merely draining few
| | |miles of lowlying land in rains.
| | |
_Fan Yanglwel_| 2¼ | 46 |Name of locality; thickly wooded,
| | |with high knolls, good camping
| | |ground, water muddy. From here run
| | |two tracks; one to Nerol, along
| | |the khor; a second across country
| | |to Riul. Latter track crosses khor
| 1 | 47 |Fanyanglwel and runs along left
| | |bank of khor for 3 miles, passing
| | |one ferik at 47th mile, and then
| | |cuts across an open plain with few
| | |scattered trees, and meets Khor
| | |Filus at Riul.
| | |
| | |The former track runs through
| | |beautiful country along bank of
| | |Khor Filus; thickly wooded,
| | |waterfowl in abundance, also
| | |harte-beest (Tiang) and Oribi; a
| | |little water in places, in the
| | |khor, under matted reeds. Khor
| | |very winding to Nerol (9 miles).
| | |Cattle feriks on R. bank of khor;
| | |fine sheet of water (some 2 miles
| | |long in places) 50 to 60 yards
| | |wide, and in places deep; good
| | |colour and taste. Village of Nerol
| | |about 6 miles due south, according
| | |to guides; at bend of Khor Filus,
| | |at mile 10, Khor Chirol or Nerol
| | |flows in, said to flow from Nyang
| | |Deng on Sobat, near Nasser, 30 to
| | |40 yards wide, nearly dry (April).
| | |Track now runs along khor straight
| | |to Riul, 5½ miles further on.
| | |
Riul | 6¾ | 53¾ |A cattle ferik on right bank of
| | |khor, village proper lies two
| | |miles inland due south, behind
| | |thick belt of trees.
| | |
Tut | 2¼ | 56 |Cattle ferik under good shady
| | |trees, village proper inland
| 2¼ | 58¼ |behind trees; good camping ground;
| | |thick thorn bush ¼ mile on left of
| | |track; good pool of water in khor,
| | |400 yards from camp, which is on
| | |rising ground, no trees for shade.
| | |
Meinom | 2¼ | 60½ |Cattle ferik, and village inland
| | |is visible.
| | |
| 1 | 61½ |Another large cattle ferik, also
| | |rest of Meinom village proper
| | |visible inland; track now runs
| 7 | 68½ |straight for 7 miles, passing
| | |feriks of Riang and Reir on the
| | |way to small khor; country thickly
| | |wooded on left of track, thinly on
| | |right.
| | |
_Fading_ | 3½ | 72 |Important scattered Nuer village
| | |in trees on right of khor; large
| | |pool of water, surrounded towards
| | |its northern end by ambach swamp,
| | |many and varied waterfowl; a track
| 1½ | 73½ |runs from here to large village of
| | |Falliu, distant 7 miles S.W. in
| | |forest; water fair at Fading;
| | |cattle ferik and pool, with ambach
| | |fringe round edge, water bad.
| | |
_Fatowel_ | 4 | 77½ |Three cattle feriks of this name
| | |on khor; several pools of stagnant
| | |water; track crosses open plain 1
| | |mile wide, and then for 7 miles
| | |runs through forest of Inderab,
| | |along bed of khor, crossing and
| | |re-crossing it, forest then thins
| | |out, and next 4 miles is over
| | |grass plain to
| | |
_Shit_ | 12½ | 90 |Large cattle feriks, village
| | |proper 2 miles away S.W. on left
| | |bank of khor; large pool of very
| | |foul stagnant water. No other
| | |water nearer than 3 miles fit to
| | |drink. Ambach swamp round water,
| | |waterfowl plentiful.
| | |
| 3 | 93 |Track runs 3 miles across open
| | |grass plain, over good sandy
| | |track, and enters this red talh
| | |bush, which gives place shortly to
| | |thin forest of heglig; large
| | |trees.
| | |
Fulnob | 3 | 96 |Long straggling village on left of
| | |track, fair amount of dura
| | |cultivation.
| | |
Dwok | 4½ | 100½ |A very large scattered village,
| | |well built tukls; cattle tukls
| | |being particularly fine; most of
| | |these Nuer villages are built in
| | |thin forest, making it impossible
| | |to estimate their full extent
| | |without penetrating long distances
| | |into the woods.
| | |
_Amwot-el- | 4½ | 105 |Beginning of Little Amwot. Two or
Sogheir_ | | |three shallow muddy wells; few
| | |trees; track now runs across Amwot
| | |plain, thickly populated; tukls in
| | |groups; probably homesteads every
| | |few hundred yards for 4 miles to
| | |the wells.
| | |
_Wells of | 4 | 109 |Dug on sandy bank of a large
Amwot-el- | | |shallow khor; khor dry in April.
Sogheir_ | | |Banks lined with um suf; cattle
| | |ferik on edge of khor; wells 12 in
| | |number, 20 feet to 25 feet deep, 2
| | |feet 6 inches in diameter; fairly
| | |thick forest of abu hemeira and
| | |trees called soba and leun.
| | |Leaving Amwot wells, track enters
| | |thick forest, which extends for 2
| | |miles, then continues over plain
| | |for another 2 miles, finally runs
| | |through very thin forest to
| | |
Keik | 6½ | 115½ |Residence of Nuer Sheikh Denkur;
| | |in centre of village is a cone,
| | |built of mud, 50 to 60 feet high,
| | |seen at least 3 miles off,
| | |surmounted with elephants’ tusks,
| | |and a huge spike like a lightning
| | |conductor; base of cone on east
| | |sides planted with elephants’
| | |tusks, with points turned
| | |outwards.
| | |
| | |Fair amount of dura cultivation;
| | |beyond village of Keik, to N.E.
| | |and S., is a vast open plain with
| | |no trees; no wells or other water
| | |found; ground is fairly high and
| | |presumably healthy.
| | |
Shit | — | 90 |From Shit, which is 90 miles from
| | |Gokjak, a track runs almost due
| | |south, crossing Khor Filus; good
| | |going.
| | |
| 1½ | 91½ |Village proper of Shit about 1
| | |mile away on left bank of khor in
| | |thick trees.
| | |
| 1½ | 93 |Group of 6 _wells_ dug in bed of
| | |khor; cattle ferik on right bank
| | |of khor; cattle watered from these
| | |wells; water when drawn up poured
| | |into shallow circular troughs of
| 1 | 94 |puddled sand and mud, to enable
| | |cattle to drink. Another similar
| 1 | 95 |_group of wells_; track branches
| | |off to right, to small village,
| | |part of Amwot-el-Kebir, 2½ miles
| | |distant. Track now runs along bed
| | |of khor.
| | |
_Amwot-el- | 3¼ | 98½ |Filus, to beginning of Amwot-el-
Kebir_ | | |Kebir, in line of trees running
| | |north and south; track now
| | |descends across plain and crosses
| | |khor to main portion of village.
| 3½ | 101½ |Villages of great extent, part
| | |built in plain, but greater part
| | |(impossible to estimate) built in
| | |woods; tukls well built and very
| | |numerous; much dura cultivation;
| | |_group of wells_.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
NOTE.—No local Nuer guides can be obtained for any of the above
country from M’Yolga to Keik, owing to the active hostility of
Nuers. The only men who know the general lie of the country are Dinkas
who have been slaves of Nuers, or who lived in this country before
Nuers seized it. They can be obtained at M’Yolga, but, at the best,
are not reliable as regards water or distances.
50.—ITINERARY UP THE BAHR EL ZERAF.
BY MAJOR STANTON, OCTOBER, 1898—ADDITIONS BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL
SPARKES, C.M.G., MARCH, 1899.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| — | — |On entering the Bahr el Zeraf, the
| | |current is strong[25]—3 miles an
| | |hour—the depth 20 feet, and
| | |channel narrow at first; opens out
| | |from 30 yards to 80 yards a couple
| | |of miles up. Water is clear, and
| | |of a dark brown tinge. Jebel el
| | |Zeraf lies away to the south-east
| | |on R. bank 5 miles off; there are
| | |four distinct hills, all of
| | |volcanic rock, covered with bush.
| | |A broad open plain, marsh near the
| | |river, extends to the foot of
| | |these hills R., while L. is wooded
| | |and scrub—open plain behind; here
| | |hippopotami, elephant, giraffe,
| | |water-buck, and reed-buck have
| | |been seen.
| | |
| 5½ | 5½ |Grass plain both banks, with a
| | |little low scrub L. From here on
| | |to 30, flat marshy plain both
| | |banks.
| | |
| 24½ | 30 |Wood obtainable; some large trees
| | |L. bank, dry marsh R.
| | |
| 5 | 35 |Bush commences both banks; river
| | |bends backwards and forwards,
| | |banks wet and marshy, and landing
| | |difficult. This continues till 60.
| | |
| 10 | 45 |Dry place L.
| | |
| 15 | 60 |Large open maya L. Water runs
| | |inland some distance. River
| | |continues to make loops and bends;
| | |channel 80 to 100 yards broad.
| | |
| 10 | 70 |Scrub ceases both banks, boundless
| | |marsh extending to horizon opens
| | |up; several large sheets of open
| | |water are passed.
| | |
| 8 | 78 |Farthest point reached by Major
| | |Peake, 5.10.98. Egyptian flag
| | |hoisted L. 14¾ hours’ steam from
| | |mouth of river. River 80 yards
| | |wide; current 2 miles per hour.
| | |
Kuchuk Ali (?)| 2 | 80 |River bends about a great deal;
| | |some of the curves are very sharp;
| | |patches of open water each side at
| | |intervals; open marsh both sides
| | |with 3 to 4 feet of water. Twenty
| | |hours’ steam from mouth.
| | |
| 2 | 82 |Solitary small Dom palm passed on
| | |R.
| | |
| 3 | 85 |Clump of thick small trees R. in 3
| | |feet of water close to channel;
| | |thousands of divers build in these
| | |trees (October, 1898). Wood for
| | |steamers could be cut here, but
| | |with some difficulty, unless the
| | |water falls; scrub begins first
| | |beyond here on L. bank. R.
| | |continues open.
| | |
| 12 | 97 |Large sheet of open water or maya
| | |about 1 mile away R.; bush on
| | |horizon beyond.
| | |
| 3 | 100 |Low scrub ½ mile away R. Big trees
| | |on horizon west L.
| | |
Gauer (?) | 10 | 110 |Scattered Nuer houses seen on
| | |horizon 6 miles away L.; village 2
| | |miles farther on under trees
| | |believed to be village of Gauer.
| | |Open plain R. Small clump of trees
| | |in water at 107, where wood could
| | |be obtained if necessary. Shallows
| | |sometimes to 4 feet; generally 10
| | |feet.
| | |
| 10 | 120 |Trees close to channel L.; open
| | |patches of water.
| | |
| 2 | 122 |Maya and stream comes in L.; this
| | |leaves the proper channel at 130
| | |higher up, and cuts across a
| | |corner direct.
| | |
| 5 | 127 |Thick trees L. and clump of trees
| | |R., all in water (October); sharp
| | |turn west.
| | |
| 3 | 130 |Channel turns again S. Maya and
| | |stream come in L. Solitary palm
| | |visible S. R. bank open marsh,
| | |bush ends L.
| | |
| 5 | 135 |Solitary Dom palm passed on edge
| | |of channel L., marsh both banks,
| | |trees and scrub begin again L.
| | |
| 5 | 140 |River bends west. Dom palms
| | |visible west.
| | |
| 4 | 144 |Sparkes’ farthest point in
| | |steamer: aground.
| | |
Kuchuk Ali | 4 | 148 |“Lotus” River comes in R.; channel
| | |50 yards, covered with large
| | |“Lotus Nymphæ.” Good wood station
| | |here just inside the mouth of
| | |“Lotus” River, where dry land can
| | |be reached by steamer. Wood
| | |extends back in water for 2 or 3
| | |miles, but sufficient can be cut
| | |on dry ground. This is the last
| | |place where steamers can wood, as
| | |all other wood seen, being either
| | |Dom or Deleib palm, is useless for
| | |fuel. “Lotus” River dried up in
| | |March.
| | |
| | |Zeraf turns west towards thick Dom
| | |palms; open water seen N.W. From
| | |here on the channel goes through
| | |numerous lagoons; the water
| | |appears slightly discoloured by
| | |mud; the stream increases in
| | |strength, and the channel in
| | |width.
| | |
| 3 | 151 |Sharp bend S.; large volume of
| | |water flows out of channel into
| | |marsh N., and makes open mayas
| | |seen about 1 to 1½ miles away. Dom
| | |palms, close to river, dry ground
| | |1 mile farther on L., thick Dom
| | |palms; channel 100 to 150 yards
| | |broad, numerous lagoons. Scrub and
| | |wood 1 mile away R.
| | |
Kuek | 8 | 159 |Small village on edge of lagoons,
| | |larger one behind under Dom palms,
| | |known as Kuek; natives Dinkas, and
| | |friendly. Egyptian flag left here
| | |with them; natives frightened by
| | |steamer, but reassured afterwards.
| | |After passing their village the
| | |regular channel gets lost as it
| | |flows to the west of clump of Dom
| | |behind Kuek, where it gets blocked
| | |by sudd, the water finding its way
| | |through the marsh and lagoons. The
| | |“Abu Klea” continued (October,
| | |1898) in a southerly direction,
| | |and after crossing a lagoon 11
| | |feet deep, which shallowed down to
| | |4 feet, the main channel again
| | |struck, 18 feet deep.
| | |
Wayo | — | — |Wayo village, Nuers, Sheikh Atar,
| | |close by. No Dinkas round this
| | |way. Left here by a narrow passage
| | |through the reeds, and joined what
| | |is evidently the main river, 80 to
| | |100 yards broad and very deep
| | |channel. It comes in from other
| | |side of villages, and natives say
| | |it is blocked by sudd lower down.
| | |This channel through which neither
| | |steamer or gyassa could get is
| | |evidently that mentioned by Peake,
| | |between 150 and 160 miles, which
| | |he went through, and which was
| | |only 5 feet deep. It is now just
| | |over 2 feet deep.
| | |
Mogren el | 3 | 161 |Junction of the rivers Zeraf. One
Buhur Zeraf | | |channel comes in from S.E., which
| | |ends 6 miles up in a large open
| | |lake 9 feet deep, and with
| | |numerous villages scattered about
| | |on bits of dry ground surrounded
| | |by a sea of marsh and sudd.
| | |
| | |The Bahr el Jebel is stated to be
| | |only a few hours in a canoe (about
| | |6) through the reeds in westerly
| | |direction. It is stated to be
| | |blocked N. of this point.
| | |
| | |The second channel comes in from a
| | |southerly direction going up-
| | |stream, after bending a good deal,
| | |passes an old tree like an English
| | |elm near two small villages, and
| | |flows close by large village of
| | |Ajiung. Nuer tribe here; Sultan
| | |Diu, the head of the Nuers in this
| | |locality, resides here. Large
| | |clump of Deleib palms, 500 yards
| | |from channel.
| | |
Ajiung Lake | 14 | 175 |Ajiung village R. Large village
| | |under Deleib palms. Lat. 7° 48′ N.
| | |(approximate). Large straggling
| | |lake; sudd S., S.W., and S.E.
| | |
| 13 | 188 |Channel goes on another 13 miles,
| | [26] |then ends in 3 feet of water on
| | |large sudd-covered lake. A large
| | |maya goes off N.E., which is
| | |declared closed about 5 miles up;
| | |this water probably forms the
| | |River “Lotus” farther down. If it
| | |is intended to go from the Bahr el
| | |Zeraf to the Bahr el Jebel,
| | |natives should be got from Ajiung
| | |to direct the course, which lies
| | |entirely through patches of sudd
| | |and open water. The direction
| | |marked on the map should be
| | |somewhat more towards the north.
| | |The channel at Ajiung, which is
| | |broad and deep, soon narrows, and
| | |current becomes less as the head
| | |is reached, clearly showing that a
| | |great deal of the water in the
| | |channel at Ajiung flows through
| | |the reeds and sudd, where the
| | |depth appears to be about 4 feet.
| | |The whole country S. and S.W. of
| | |Ajiung appears to be one vast
| | |sudd-covered lagoon through which
| | |the waters forming the Bahr el
| | |Zeraf flow until the main channel
| | |is formed; pieces of sudd
| | |measuring 40 yards by 30 were met
| | |after a severe storm in the
| | |western branch. Such pieces of
| | |sudd are liable at any time to
| | |block the present channel and
| | |cause a fresh one to open out.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
[Footnote 24: _Vide_ also Route 134, Goré to Abwong, Appendix.]
[Footnote 25: Even in March.]
[Footnote 26: Major G. E. Matthews steamed up about 30 miles beyond
this point in August, 1904, but was then stopped by sudd.]
CHAPTER VII.
(BAHR EL GHAZAL.)
* * * * *
51.—MESHRA EL REK TO TONJ.
BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, JANUARY, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Meshra El Rek | — | — |Leaving the Nuzl, the track
| | |crosses a khor some 15 feet deep,
| | |by a bridge partly under water.
| | |After 100 yards bridge ends and
| | |you wade waist deep for 3 miles.
| | |
_Camp_ | 3½ | 3½ |Always dry, but mosquitoes very
| | |bad. Good water all the year
| | |round. Very bad track leading due
| | |S. between grass 7 feet high.
| | |Ground much cut up by cattle
| | |passing in the rains.
| | |
Unangarp | 7½ | 11 |A few Dinka tukls; no supplies N.
| | |boundary of Lau district. Head
| | |Sheikh Kwitol.
| | |
_Manashin_ | 2 | 13 |Water holes, which are said never
| | |to dry up completely, situated on
| | |W. of track. Good camp, well
| | |marked by a deleib growing out of
| | |centre of gemmeiza tree on track.
| | |No supplies.
| | |
| | |Track continues nearly due S.,
| | |winds a great deal, and much cut
| | |up. Bad going for man and beast.
| | |
_War Lai_ | 6¾ | 19¾ |A swamp, 300 yards W. of track. It
| | |is said never to dry up; 300 by
| | |200 yards. Fair drinking water.
| | |Animals easily watered by digging
| | |trenches.
| | |
_Fulbar_ | 6 | 25¾ |Road through an open forest, grass
| | |lately burnt. Track better, but
| | |much broken in places by old
| | |elephant tracks. Fulbar is a large
| | |swamp, said never to dry up. Many
| | |elephant tracks. Good water.
| | |
| | |Leaving the pool, the track joins
| | |the main road a mile on. Fair
| | |track.
| | |
_Amangnok_ | 7 | 32¾ |A large swamp, good water, lasts
| | |all the year, on W. of track,
| | |which goes S. to Marra Alangjok,
| | |passing the village of Sheikh
| | |Angong Marial.
| | |
Mana Alangjok | — | — |A large Dinka cattle enclosure,
| | |well-known throughout this
| | |district.
| | |
_War Gel_ | 7 | 39¾ |Pools in a swamp. Water said to
| | |last all the year. Bad shade.
| | |Half-a mile on Sheikh Tioing’s
| | |house is passed on the N. of the
| | |road, and Sheikh Malwal Mabior’s
| | |village over a mile long is left
| | |to the W.
| | |
_Haleik_ | 7 | 46¾ |A swamp, left to W. of road, water
| | |said to last all the year. Track
| | |generally good, but cut up by
| | |elephants in places. Sheikh Wal
| | |Mabior’s village is entered 2
| | |miles from Ateim swamp.
| | |
_Wal Mabior’s,| 5 | 51¾ |A mile wide from E. to W., and 1½
or Ateim_ | | |miles from N. to S. Very good and
| | |plentiful water.
| | |
_Mowok_ | 2 | 53¾ |A swamp 1 mile E. of road. Very
| | |good track through open country.
| | |Heglig trees and little bush.
| | |
_Mabior Dod’s_| 2 | 55¾ |Large swamps. Good water; called
| | |Katoi. Fair shade. Good track
| | |through rather open and perfectly
| | |level country. Soil sandy in
| | |places.
| | |
_Again Well, | 5 | 60¾ |Small water holes, little water.
Ewal Gor’s_ | | |There is a good deal of
| | |cultivation about, and Dinka huts
| | |every few hundred yards.
| | |
_Sheikh Bak | 4 | 64¾ |Four bad and one good water holes.
Bong Yep’s_ | | |Latter known as Abaing, after a
| | |small tree near it; watered 200
| | |men easily. The four other holes
| | |just satisfied 100 donkeys. Fair
| | |shade. Obtained some dura.
| | |
_Teing Teing | 1 | 65¾ |One fair well, or rather hole;
well_ | | |water for 30 or 40 men. Good going
| | |on the whole.
| | |
“Dug-Dug” | 4 | 69¾ |Site of an old cattle enclosure,
(ruins) | | |marked by some mounds of earth and
| | |some usher bushes.
| | |
_Atubbu_ | 11 | 80¾ |One water hole; dirty water, but
| | |enough to give 200 men a drink.
| | |
_Aweid_ | 2 | 82¾ |A small swamp, but plenty of fair
| | |water. Fair shade under heglig
| | |trees. Track passes across an open
| | |plain covered with grass, which in
| | |places is 10 feet high. Few trees,
| | |but trees of the Tonj valley seen
| | |in the distance to the S. Bad
| | |going for first 3 miles, then very
| | |good.
| | |
Atang’s (N. | 4¼ | 87 |The direct road to Tonj Post leads
end) | | |to the W.S.W. Another, down a
| | |khor, in which are several water-
_R. Tonj_ | 3 | 90 |holes strikes the River Tonj.
| | |Small camp on left bank. The river
| | |bed is 65 yards wide and 15 feet
| | |deep. Water 25 yards wide and 18
| | |inches deep. Good water; sandy
| | |bottom. No mosquitoes.
| | |
| | |Leaving the river the track for 3
| | |miles goes through long grass,
| | |then crosses a plain; grass at
| | |first, then covered with grass and
| | |bush.
| | |
_Abuior Sheikh| 9 | 99 |A small water hole (War Rual) on
Maton’s and | | |W. of track at N. end of Sheikh
War Rual_ | | |Matoin’s village (Abui). There are
| | |a few more wells to the W., but
| | |the best water is a mile to the E.
| | |in a swamp. Good shade near road.
| | |
_War Tit_ | 2 | 101 |A pool 50 by 30 yards, now dry.
| | |There is a small water hole near
| | |the road.
| | |
| | |Very good track through bush, with
| | |many large trees, until within a
| | |mile of the river, when a belt of
| | |forest is entered.
| | |
Tonj River | 5 | 106 |
Post | | |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
A great part of the above road is under water during the rains,
and only passable to carriers.
52.—WAU TO MESHRA EL REK.
BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, MARCH, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| | |The following is the Government
| | |route and is used by all convoys:—
| | |
Wau | — | — |Crossing the river Jur, the track
| | |enters high grass for a mile until
| | |the E. side of the valley is
| | |reached. Then thick bush and
| | |ironstone ridges.
| | |
_Sheikh | 4 | 4 |Rest house and well 150 yards S.
Malwal’s new | | |of track. Track continues over
village (Jur)_| | |ironstone ridges, but bush is much
| | |more open near the track.
| | |
_P. Rumbashia_| 5¾ | 9¾ |A rain pool 30 yards by 20 yards;
| | |3 feet 6 inches deep when full;
| | |now contains 18 inches water.
| | |Halting place for bull transport.
| | |A quarter-mile on there are 3 more
| | |small pools in the rock.
| | |
_Sheikh | 1¼ | 11 |Jur name Rurruish. Rest house, 2
Malwal’s old | | |tukls, 1 shelter, and good well.
village (Jur)_| | |Water trough. Bush now becomes
| | |thick; many deserted villages
| | |passed.
| | |
_Sheikh | 12 | 23 |So called, but he has now moved
Moyen’s | | |some way N. of the road, rest
(Dinka)_ | | |house, 2 tukls, 2 sheds, and 1
| | |rekuba. Well with good water. The
| | |ironstone formation is left.
| | |
| | |Track over level plain, now dry
| | |and covered with high grass, would
| | |be very wet in rains. A few Dinka
| | |houses are seen, many deserted
| | |ones passed.
| | |
_Water hole_ | 9½ | 32½ |Six feet deep, 8 feet in diameter,
| | |good, but much discoloured water.
| | |Used by Aiyum’s people.
| | |
_Sheikh | 2½ | 35 |Extensive Dinka village chiefly N.
Aiyum’s | | |of road. Rest house, 2 tukls, 2
(Dinka)_ | | |shelters, and large tukl for the
| | |bull transport.
| | |
| | |Open grass-covered plain with
| | |scattered trees. Swampy in rains.
| | |Mosquitoes troublesome.
| | |
_Bir El Jaalin| 7 | 42 |Old wells in clump of deleib
(Arab), Malau | | |palms, site of old village.
(Dinka)_ | | |
| | |
_Deleiba_ | 8 | 50 |Rest house, 3 tukls, 1 bad well;
| | |water gave out after 30 men had
| | |drawn their water, but well
| | |refills quickly. Many deleib
| | |palms. Mosquitoes.
| | |
| | |Track winds to avoid the bush,
| | |which is thick some 200 yards away
| | |from the track W.
| | |
“_Dug-Dug_” | 5 | 55 |Rest house, Dinka name Noi. 3
| | |tukls and 2 good wells.
| | |
| | |Track again winds about to avoid
| | |the thick bush. Very thick grass
| | |in places.
| | |
_Bir El Gurud_| 6 | 61 |Rest house, 3 tukls. Two wells
| | |(one now dry), 8 feet deep. Good,
| | |but muddy water. After passing
| | |through a belt of bush 300 yards
| | |wide the country becomes perfectly
| | |flat and open. Covered with high
| | |grass and scattered trees. Little
| | |bush anywhere. The going is bad as
| | |the track from here to Meshra. is
| | |mostly under water during the
| | |rains.
| | |
_Old wells | 7½ | 68½ |Could not obtain name. A well-
near single | | |known place and site of old Dinka
deleib palm_ | | |village.
| | |
_Sheikh | 3½ | 72 |So called. Sheikh Bok is the chief
Gadein’s_ | | |man. A large village. Rest house,
| | |2 good tukls, 1 shelter. Good
| | |water from wells. Depôt for bull
| | |transport. Road and country as
| | |before.
| | |
_Gemmeiza | 9 | 81 |Well-known halting place, as there
tree_ | | |is a pool 50 yards in diameter
| | |which holds water for some 6 or 8
| | |weeks after the rains.
| | |
_Rest house W.| 6 | 87 |Two tukls and shelter under
end of Sheikh | | |gemmeiza tree. Wells dry 13th
Mayik’s | | |March, 1904. Route winds much
village_ | | |through the village.
| | |
_Rest house E.| 5½ | 92½ |Two tukls, 1 shelter under a
end of Sheikh | | |single deleib palm. One well 15
Mayik’s | | |feet deep, 8 feet in diameter, 3
village | | |feet of good clear water. No
(Dinka)_ | | |people seen; they are said to have
| | |gone down to the river with their
| | |cattle.
| | |
| | |Country good, level, and open as
| | |before; but track somewhat better.
| | |
| | |Three miles from the rest house
| | |there is a water hole 50 yards S.
| | |of track near a small deleib palm,
| | |8 feet deep, 10 feet in diameter;
| | |good water.
| | |
_Sheikh | 9 | 101½ |Rest house at W. end of village; 3
Madal’s | | |good tukls, 1 shelter, good well.
(Dinka)_ | | |Dinka name of well Atien ful. The
| | |native houses are chiefly on the
| | |N. side of the wood and ½ a mile
| | |away.
| | |
_War Kul_ | 4¾ | 106¼ |(War = pool) Pool 20 yards by 10
| | |yards. Good water situated in a
| | |swamp now dry. There is a clump of
| | |bush on higher ground 100 yards
| | |N., which would be a dry spot for
| | |a camp.
| | |
_Sheikh | 1¾ | 108 |Rest house. Two tukls and well, at
Amien’s | | |W. end of village which is
(Dinka)_ | | |scattered along the route for 3
| | |miles. Road has been cleared in
| | |the village and ruts caused by
| | |traffic in rains filled up. The
| | |going then becomes bad. Black
| | |soil; grass, and a few scattered
| | |trees. Three miles from Meshra,
| | |high grass and a swamp is entered.
| | |Going very bad and water waist-
| | |deep in places. Close to the Nuzl
| | |a khor is crossed by a bridge, but
| | |it is now 2 feet 6 inches under
| | |water.
| | |
_Meshra El | 11 | 119 |
Rek_ | | |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
53.—TONJ POST TO WAU.
BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, FEBRUARY, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| | |The whole of this road is over
| | |ironstone ridges, except where it
| | |is crossed by khors. The going is
| | |good and in many places the bush
| | |has been cleared. It is proposed
| | |to clear a route from Tonj Post,
| | |_viâ_ Jur Ghatas to Kawagana, and
| | |thence follow this route to Wau.
| | |
| | |There was sufficient water
| | |everywhere in February, 1904,
| | |along this route for 300 men and
| | |100 mules.
| | |
Tonj Post | — | — |The route follows the left bank of
| | |the river Ba, at first, to Morgan
| | |Bongo’s house, and thence bears
| | |slightly N. of W. Good track, but
| | |thick bush, and grass on both
| | |sides until within a mile of
| | |Aiidu’s wells, when cultivation is
| | |entered.
| | |
_Sheikh | 10 | 10 |A small Jur village, to W. of
Aiidu’s_ | | |which is the rest house; 2 good
| | |tukls. Good water from wells.
| | |
| | |Track continues through thick bush
| | |and grass, crossing some grass
| | |covered swamps, now dry.
| | |Ironstone, good going. A mile from
| | |the next rest house the track
| | |descends a steep bank, 81 feet
| | |high, and crosses a small khor.
| | |
_River house | 8½ | 18½ |On right bank. One good hut, but
at River | | |little shade near. Water from
Mulmul_ | | |pools in bed of river. The track
| | |now crosses the valley of the
| | |River Mulmul, which is flat,
| | |covered with thick grass, and very
| | |swampy in the rains. There is a
| | |khor on the left bank of valley,
| | |and some wells 2 feet deep. Good
| | |and plentiful water. Route passes
| | |through Sheikh Agan’s village and
| | |over a stony ridge to the rest
| | |house.
| | |
Rest house, | 4½ | 23 |The village is called Mudi. Two
_Sheikh | | |good tukls. Water from wells in
Agan’s_ (Jur) | | |River Mulmul.
| | |
| | |Good track, but much high grass.
| | |
_Sheikh | 3½ | 26½ |A small village with little
Arum’s_ | | |cultivation. Two tukls for rest
(Bilanda) | | |house. Road now winds a good deal
| | |through high grass and bush, and
| | |crosses several places that are
| | |swampy in the rains.
| | |
_Sheikh | 6½ | 33 |Rest house of 2 tukls and a
Akuong_ (Jur) | | |rekuba; water from well.
| | |
_Munga well_ | 2½ | 35½ |There is a small rekuba on N. of
| | |road. The wells are 300 yards S.,
| | |and consist of 3 holes 4 feet deep
| | |with 2 feet of good water, which
| | |flows in quickly. Full of frogs.
| | |Immediately beyond cultivation and
| | |the village commence.
| | |
_Sheikh | 1½ | 37 |Rest house is at N. end of
Kangor’s_ | | |village. Four tukls, water from
| | |Manga well. Bush and high grass.
| | |Route crosses one place that must
| | |be very wet in the rains.
| | |
_Kawagana_ | 3½ | 40½ |A rock-pool 60 yards by 25 yards,
| | |and 2 feet 6 inches deep. Good
| | |clean water, said to last all the
| | |year. Rain water; no spring. Two
| | |tukls, bush thick. The direct road
| | |from Tonj Post, _viâ_ Jur Ghatas,
| | |comes in here.
| | |
Khor | 4 | 44½ |300 yards wide and 30 feet deep,
| | |ironstone sides; no water. Only 80
| | |yards show signs of being swampy
| | |in the rains. Track crosses
| | |another khor and then ascends a
| | |ridge (60 feet) which it follows
| | |for 2 miles and then descends into
| | |Khor Mbili, where there is a rest
| | |house with ghafir.
| | |
Rest house in | 4 | 48½ |Three tukls. Water from wells in
_Khor Mbili_ | | |khor. Road has been cleared for 2
| | |miles on each side.
| | |
Khor Tala | 3 | 51½ |20 yards wide and 10 feet deep,
| | |bridged. Route now ascends an
| | |ironstone ridge for a mile and
| | |then winds round it. Wide valley
| | |to the E., with deleib palms. 3¼
| | |miles from next rest-house there
| | |is a steep ascent of 50 feet. Bad
| | |going. The track then crosses
| | |greyish soil for a mile and again
| | |passes over ironstone rock.
| | |
Rest house, | 9 | 60½ |Eight tukls (4 old). Many deleib
“The | | |palms about. Good water from
_Deleib’s_” | | |wells. For the next 3 miles there
| | |is thick bush. The grassy valley
| | |of the Khor Abongo is then struck.
| | |
_Khor Abongo_ | 4 | 64½ |Khor which is 20 yards wide and 10
| | |feet deep, bridged. The river Jur
| | |is now to the W. of the track
| | |which follows its right bank,
| | |between the high grass which
| | |covers the valley and an ironstone
| | |ridge 30 to 50 feet high, covered
| | |with very thick bush. Wau is seen
| | |on the left bank.
| | |
| | |East of Wau the track crosses the
| | |valley (1 mile wide) through very
| | |high grass. The river Jur here is
| | |on the W. side of the valley, 100
| | |yards wide with banks from 15 to
| | |20 feet high. On 3rd February,
| | |1904, there was 2 feet 9 inches
| | |water in the ford. Sandy bottom.
| | |
Wau | 5½ | 70 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
54.—TONJ TO RIKTA’S VILLAGE.
BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, FEBRUARY, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| | |There is no obstacle on this route
| | |to the movement of men, mules or
| | |donkeys, during the dry season.
| | |But a very little rain would make
| | |many of the khors impassable to
| | |animals. The river Ba during the
| | |rains would have to be crossed in
| | |boats. There was ample water for
| | |500 men and 300 mules or donkeys.
| | |The route lies chiefly over
| | |ironstone rock, with black
| | |alluvial soil in and near the
| | |khors.
| | |
Tonj River | — | — |Leaving the fort the road follows
Post | | |the left bank of the river Ba;
| | |good track.
| | |
Khor | 3 | 3 |20 yards wide, 5 feet deep, muddy
| | |bottom, if not bridged would be a
| | |serious obstacle. Track skirts the
| | |forest.
| | |
River Ba | 3 | 6 |The actual valley is 1½ miles
| | |wide, alluvial soil covered with
| | |grass 6 to 8 feet high, now dry.
| | |The river channel 75 yards wide,
| | |12 feet deep, and has been bank
| | |full of water this year. Water in
| | |January 30 yards wide, 20 inches
| | |deep, sandy bottom. No difficulty
| | |in ascending banks.
| | |
| | |There is now a slight track only.
| | |The route followed the edge of the
| | |forest on the right bank of the
| | |river Ba. Good going, but the
| | |khors running into the river would
| | |be difficult after rain. Water for
| | |drinking obtained from khors.
| | |
13th mile | 7 | 13 |Route leaves valley of river Ba
| | |and follows the right bank of Khor
| | |Sunni. Good going, khor from 50 to
| | |1000 yards from route which
| | |followed the edge of the forest.
| | |Bush seldom very thick, but grass
| | |troublesome in places.
| | |
Pool Dam Lkobo| 20½ | 33½ |Route crosses to left bank of Khor
| | |Sunni 20 feet deep, 3 yards wide
| | |at bottom, 25 yards wide at top;
| | |running water 6 inches deep.
| | |
Pool Gutti | 2 | 35½ |Large pool in khor, said never to
| | |dry up. Guide was not very sure of
| | |name, but place unmistakable. Bare
| | |ironstone running from edge of
| | |forest to khor. Running water now
| | |ceases and the only water is in
| | |pools.
| | |
| | |Route crosses several shallow but
| | |wide khors full of elephant
| | |tracks; high grass.
| | |
Da Kobi | 12 | 47½ |(Called by another guide, Akkuir).
| | |Da = pool in Bongo. Dirty water
| | |but quite drinkable.
| | |
Pool Dormunga | 6½ | 54 |Pool 100 yards long in khor, very
| | |good water. Good shade near; road
| | |crosses several ironstone ridges
| | |and some low ground now dry, but
| | |would be very swampy in rains.
| | |
Pool Higoli | 7½ | 61½ |Pool in khor. Good water. Good
| | |going but thick bush.
| | |
Pool Kunga | 44¾ | 66¼ |Pool in a khor running into Khor
| | |Sunni, 80 yards in diameter, good
| | |clean water. Said always to
| | |contain water.
| | |
Minobolo | 4¾ | 71 |Two miles before reaching
| | |Minobolo, two deleib palms are
| | |seen and the track crosses a small
| | |khor. For 1½ miles this khor
| | |contains a succession of pools.
| | |Minobolo is the site of an old
| | |slave dealers’ zeriba, 30 feet
| | |above khor. Water said to last all
| | |the year.
| | |
| | |The route follows the Khor Sunni,
| | |crossing it twice and passing
| | |several small pools.
| | |
Pool Riggu | 8 | 79 |In the midst of many deleib palms,
| | |good water. Much game about. This
| | |is the last pool on the Khor
| | |Sunni.
| | |
| | |The country now rises slowly until
| | |the route passes between two red
| | |ironstone hills (rising 100 feet
| | |above the track) covered with
| | |bush. The route then descends and
| | |enters the valley of the Khor
| | |Takor which flows S.W. to the
| | |river Ba.
| | |
Toko | 5½ | 84½ |Pool of good water; said to last
| | |all the year.
| | |
Da Higi | 2½ | 87 |Pool of good water; said to last
| | |all the year. Site of old Bongo
| | |village. Route now follows right
| | |bank. Good going.
| | |
Ungulu | 2¼ | 89¼ |Pool in khor; drying up rapidly in
| | |February. Route crosses to left
| | |bank, and a mile on there is a
| | |large grey granite rock 30 feet
| | |high, 50 yards in diameter.
| | |
Mungola | 2¾ | 93 |Pool in khor; said never to dry
| | |up. Good water; some bad going due
| | |to elephant tracks.
| | |
Dih | 3 | 96 |Several large pools which are said
| | |never to dry up. Good shade.
| | |
| | |From here to Higola pool there are
| | |two routes, an eastern and a
| | |western. The former is the better
| | |going but the latter has more
| | |water on it.
| | |
| | | WESTERN ROUTE.
| | |
| | |Follows the Khor Takor for 2
| | |miles, then turns S., crosses the
| | |Khor Teih at the Pool Ngomala, and
| | |half a mile on enters valley of
| | |the Khor Biuku, which flows
| | |northwards and westwards to River
| | |Ba; much bush and grass. Three
| | |miles from Ngomala, route crosses
| | |khor; rocky ground, bad going.
| | |After 7 miles, Angaga, a pool in
| | |Khor Biuku, is reached. Water said
| | |to be dry up; much high grass. A
| | |mile S., route again crosses the
| | |khor and ascends an ironstone
| | |ridge, which it follows for 5
| | |miles; good going; to Higola 5½
| | |miles, a pool fed by a spring,
| | |situated on E. side of ridge in
| | |the Khor Todor.
| | |
| | | EASTERN ROUTE.
| | |
| | |Route goes nearly S.E. for 2½
| | |miles, then turns lightly W. of S.
| | |
Khor Teih | 2½ | 98½ |Now nearly dry. One or two small
| | |dirty pools. Khor 20 yards wide, 8
| | |feet deep, steep banks. Flows W.
| | |to River Ba. A mile and a half on
| | |the Khor Todor is seen E. of route
| | |which follows the left bank to
| | |Higola. Good going skirting the
| | |bush. Valley of khor full of high
| | |grass. The Khor Todor flows
| | |northwards into the Khor Teih.
| | |
Higola | 5½ | 107 |Bad going for first 2 miles,
| | |ascending a rocky ironstone ridge.
| | |Thick bush. Then along the level
| | |for 2 miles, when the end of the
| | |ridge is reached. There is then a
| | |rapid but easy descent of nearly
| | |200 feet to the Khor Veitatei.
| | |Route followed right bank to the
| | |River Ba, but it is better to
| | |cross the khor from 1 to 2 miles
| | |before reaching the river.
| | |
River Ba | 11 | 118 |Forty yards wide and unfordable,
| | |with slight current E. to W.;
| | |following the bank for a mile
| | |through high grass and crossing
| | |the Khor Veitatei the river bends
| | |S. Near a large Bolo tree. S. of
| | |this tree is a good ford. Water 2
| | |feet 6 inches deep. Sandy bottom.
| | |
| | |Right bank easy, left bank had to
| | |be ramped. Good shade on right
| | |bank. None on left.
| | |
| | |Route now nearly due S., through
| | |high grass. Near River Ba for 2
| | |miles. Then crosses a small khor
| | |with running water and ascends a
| | |hill to Sheikh Toin’s, the River
| | |Ba being left to the eastwards.
| | |
Sheikh Toin | 5¼ | 123¼ |Village burnt 11th February.
| | |Situated on top of a grey
| | |sandstone hill. Water from pool in
| | |Khor Maposho, a mile S. From this
| | |village to Rikta’s there is a good
| | |track. Much bush and high grass.
| | |
Khor Maposho | 5¾ | 129 |Track again crosses the khor. Two
| | |good pools. Long grass and thick
| | |bushes.
| | |
Hukwar’s | 7 | 136 |Small place. Good pools ¼ mile
| | |N.W. Burnt 10th February. Track
| | |continues through high grass and
| | |bush for 4½ miles to the first
| | |houses of Rikta’s village.
| | |
Khor Menza | 5½ | 141½ |A narrow but deep khor with
| | |thickly wooded banks. Many pools
| | |both above and below track.
| | |
| | |High grass, with clearings for
| | |cultivation: dura, telibun and
| | |maize (very little).
| | |
Khor Nabazibi | ¾ | 142¼ |A large khor, with thickly wooded
| | |banks. Many pools of good water,
| | |both above and below track. Was
| | |bridged by Rikta, but bridge
| | |burnt. There must be 7 feet of
| | |water in the khor at times. The
| | |width varies from 30 to 60 yards
| | |wide, the more narrow portions
| | |being between ironstone rock.
| | |
Rikta’s | — | — |The Sheik’s house (burnt 10th
| | |February, 1904) was 250 yards from
| | |the bridge. The village was
| | |scattered along the higher ground
| | |on both banks of the Khor
| | |Nabazibi. Except where cleared for
| | |cultivation, the country is
| | |covered with scattered trees and
| | |high grass.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
55.—WAU TO TEMBURA.
BY CAPTAIN A. B. BETHEL, R.A., AUGUST, 1904.
[Sidenote: Water, etc.]
In the dry season, I consider that this road would present a good
many difficulties in the way of water supply for troops or animal
transport using it.
[Sidenote: Transport.]
In the wet season, the road is only fit for carrier transport, as many
of the khors are so full that it would entail swimming the animals
across, and carrying the baggage over by hand; bridging one or two
more of the khors would assist matters a good deal, but the River
Bo is too wide for a bridge to be thrown across it, and I think it
quite possible that these small native-made bridges would be swept
away in the deep khors. A small Berthon boat is indispensable to
anyone using this road in the wet season.
[Sidenote: Track and country.]
The track is a well marked one the whole way. After leaving the
Zeriba of Kutsuk Ali, the country becomes undulating till Khor
Abera is reached, and there are several ridges, with steep ascents
and descents; from this, the track is fairly flat till it reaches
Tembura’s village, though, S. of Gedi’s village, it runs along
the foot of the Undili Mountains. In the wet season, the track is very
much overgrown with grass and short scrub to the S. of Ali’s Babai;
N. of it, the grass is not so high, nor so thick, but the going is
bad, as much of the track is under water, and it is especially so
between Khors Gullamba and Gumbola.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Wau | — | — |
| | |
River Wau | 4 | — |Good ford in dry season, about 2·6
| | |to 3 feet deep.
| | |
_Sheikh Kwol’s| 10 | 14 |3 rest houses, well in village,
village_ (Rest| | |river 2 miles away.
house) | | |
| | |
_Zeriba Kutsuk| 3 | 17 |2 small wells close to Zeriba.
Ali_ | | |
| | |
Khor Kossukali| 12 | 29 |2 rest houses.
(Rest house) | | |
| | |
_Khor Abera_ | 5 | 34 |2 rest houses, water all the year.
(Rest house) | | |
| | |
Khor Tela | 7 | 41 |2 rest houses.
(Rest house) | | |
| | |
_Khor Borda_ | 9 | 50 |Water said to be in a pool here
| | |all the year.
| | |
Khor Nyeka | 9 | 59 |2 rest houses.
(Rest house) | | |
| | |
_Khor Gumbala_| 10 | 69 |2 rest houses, water said to be in
(Rest house) | | |pools all the year.
| | |
_Khor | 11 | 80 |1 rest house, deep khor, 5 feet
Gullamba_ | | |deep in wet season, water probably
(Rest house) | | |all the year. Rest house.
| | |
Khor Gomereh | 3 | 83 |
| | |
_Khor Deboka_ | 16 | 99 |Deep khor, water all the year,
and Sheikh | | |Tukls in old village still intact.
Ali’s Babai | | |2 rest houses.
(Rest house) | | |
| | |
_River Bo_ | 12 | 111 |2 rest houses, easily crossed in
(Rest house) | | |dry season; boat necessary in wet
| | |season, as it is 80 yards wide.
| | |Water all the year.
| | |
_Khor Gutti_ | 19 | 130 |Water probably all the year.
| | |
_Sheikh Wura’s| 6 | 136 |2 rest houses, water all the year.
village_ | | |
(Belanda) | | |
(Rest house) | | |
| | |
_Gedi’s | 12 | 148 |1 Tukl and 1 Dahr-El-Tor, water
village_ (Rest| | |all the year.
house) | | |
| | |
_River Duma_ | 19 | 167 |Bridge, water all the year.
| | |
_Sheikh | 6 | 173 |Water all the year.
Bumangedi’s | | |
son’s village_| | |
| | |
_River Yebbo_ | 6 | 179 |Bridge, water all the year, about
| | |15 yards wide.
| | |
Tambura’s | 3 | 182 |
enclosure | | |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
56.—WAU TO DEIM ZUBEIR.
MAJOR W. A. BOULNOIS, APRIL, 1901; AND LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES,
APRIL, 1903.
[Sidenote: The country.]
All forest and jungle. Cultivated patches round Biselli. Country gets
gradually more undulating, and hills and ridges are higher towards
Deim Zubeir. Granite boulders and ironstone intermingled.
[Sidenote: Rivers.]
The Bongo and the Kuru. Both much the same, nearly dry in dry weather,
probably full, and difficult to cross between May and October. Many
khors, which would be a great obstruction to donkey or even mule
traffic.
A waterless stretch for 30 miles from Khor Gitti to the Bongo in dry
weather. There is a well out of use at Khor Gombolo, 11½ miles west
of Khor Gitti, otherwise water is found at no greater distance than
15 miles interval in pools in the khors.
[Sidenote: The track.]
Is very indistinct in places.[27] Elephant tracks lead off which help
to confuse it. Bushes and trees constantly intercept.
[Sidenote: Natives.]
Biselli is fairly populated with Golo and a few Kreich and Bari,
originally from Deim Idris.
Deim Zubeir almost entirely Kreich.
Natives live on barley, roots, and berries of trees, and on honey a
great deal at this time of year (April).
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Fort Dessaix- | — | — |Track leaves the river nearly due
Wau Post | | |W.; several khors are crossed:
| | |Khor Ganna at 2 miles, Khor Ngoa
| | |at 9 miles, Khor Alfell at 10
| | |miles.
| | |
_Absaka’s_ new| 12 | 12 |Water from Well. Rakuba and hut
village | | |for traveller.
| | |
| | |A track crosses the route at 12
| | |miles from the Jur Village Nuara
| | |to iron furnaces 15 miles S.W. and
| | |S. At Absaka’s old village, at 17½
| | |miles there is well water.
| | |
Ganna | 4½ | 16½ |A village taking its name from
| | |another Khor Ganna is passed. Golo
_Biselli (old | 9 | 25½ |villages to and at Biselli. Rest
zeriba)_ | | |Rakuba for travellers. The old
| | |zeriba is in ruins—few trees are
| | |left; ½ mile further west the huts
| | |and zeribas of Golo—Sheikh Limbo.
| | |Water from Khor Gitti ½ mile N.,
| | |flowing N.E., always good.
| | |
| | |The track nearly all the way so
| | |far is thoroughly thickly wooded
| | |country, much intercepted by
| | |shrubs, bushes, and branches.
| | |
| | |Hence track goes slightly S. or W.
| | |for 4 miles along right bank of
| | |Khor Gitti, passing French wooden
| | |bridge over the khor to Village
| | |Gumsi Golo, thence W. across Khor
| | |Gitti.
| | |
_Khor Gombolo_| 10 | 35½ |Well giving bad water in dry
| | |season (March to end of May).
| | |Rakuba and huts. Dry route
| | |crossing Khor Gombolo and Gamus
| | |(native name, Ingataba), much
| | |intercepted by bushes and trees to
River Bongo | 20 | 55½ |River Bongo—steep banks; trees
| | |close up to river banks; marsh ½
| | |mile broad, left bank; flowing
| | |N.E. from S. about 30 yards broad
| | |from bank to bank. Banks at low
| | |water (14.3.01) about 20 feet
| | |high, sandy bottom, always good
| | |clear water in pools. Rakuba and
| | |huts. A species of Tetse fly
| | |infests the banks of this river.
| | |
| | |Thence through forest
| | |country—higher ground—crossing
| | |several khors, past Aboko hills at
| | |11 miles, 1 mile N. of track,
| | |whence a view is obtained. Granite
| | |ridges about 600 feet high, trees
| | |growing up to the summit. Khors
| | |Karra and Ganna flowing towards
| | |the Bongo water.
| | |
_Khor Ganna_ | 13½ | 69 |Water always in Khor Ganna (in
| | |well in dry season). Rakuba and
| | |huts.
| | |
| | |Several more khors are crossed.
| | |Country getting slightly more
| | |undulating. Several granite
| | |outcrops and boulders are passed.
| | |
_Khor Gongoba_| 6½ | 75½ |Khor Gongoba, dry in dry season.
| | |Three and a half miles further on,
| | |Khor Idris, always water (both
| | |have rakubas and huts).
| | |
_Khor Raml_ | 12 | 87½ |Khors Raml and Tena hold water in
| | |pools in dry season, and flow S.
_Khor Tena_ | 3½ | 91 |to Bongo. The former has rakuba
| | |and huts.
| | |
_Deim Idris_ | 5 | 96 |Well situated on high ground
| | |(gives bad water). Now in ruins.
| | |Rakuba and huts. Small trees,
| | |jungle, and wilderness. Palisades
| | |of burnt wood poles show the
| | |outlines of Gessi’s fort. The
| | |earthworks of a battery and ruins
| | |of two houses are visible. Two or
| | |three wells are traced, now tilled
| | |up. Three-quarters of a mile
| | |further W. the ruins of Suleiman’s
| | |fort is passed, touching the
| | |track, and shortly after Khor
| | |Gelaba is crossed, where once
| | |stood houses and a Suk, now
| | |wilderness.
| | |
| | |Country more undulating, and after
| | |passing over a long ridge, the
| | |khors are more numerous, and flow
| | |northwards to Kuru river. Some
| | |years nearly all hold _pools of
| | |water in the dry season, but they
| | |are often dry_.
| | |
_River Kuru_ | 23 | 119 |Steep banks 20 feet high, 30 to 50
| | |yards from bank to bank, very
| | |slight current in stream, 6 feet
| | |deep. Good water. Rakuba and huts.
| | |
| | |Very pretty banks with overhanging
| | |trees on both sides.
| | |
_Khor Mubenga_| 7½ | 126½ |Always water. Rakuba and huts.
| | |
_Khor Ghanam_ | 17½ | 144 |Khor Ghanam. Crossed at the horse-
(flowing S. to| | |shoe bend mentioned by Dr. Junker.
Kuru) | | |Banks steep, 15 feet high, 15
| | |yards from bank to bank, always
| | |water in pools. Rakuba and huts.
| | |
| | |Remains of Gessi’s entrenchments,
| | |ironstone, 100 yards W. of left
| | |bank.
| | |
| | |Track follows right bank of Khor
| | |Uiri running into Khor Ghanam for
| | |1 mile, then rising over a ridge
| | |of 4 miles drops down the W.
| | |slope, facing a valley with the E.
| | |slope of Deim Zubeir ridge
| | |opposite. Open ground—dura fields
| | |and the fort in the front—Khor
| | |Ujugu (spring water) is crossed ¼
| | |mile E. of the Fort of Deim
Deim Zubeir | 6 | 150 |Zubeir.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
N.B. No inhabitants between Biselli and Deim Zubeir.
57.—CHAK CHAK TO DEIM ZUBEIR.
BY LIEUTENANT FELL, R.N., APRIL, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Chak Chak | — | — |Track lies nearly due S. Very good
| | |going along broad road to village
_Khor | 6 | 6 |of Baraguei, on khor of same name;
Baraguei_ | | |thence through straggling village
| | |to house of Sheikh Limliffo
_Sheikh | 3 | 9 |(Kreich), 1 mile from river.
Limliffo_ | | |Thence through forest to small
(Rest house) | | |Shat village, Sheikh Ramadan on
| | |Khor Mwelli. Road difficult to
| | |follow owing to numerous elephant
| | |roads.
| | |
_Khor Mwelli, | 20 | 29 |Good water in khor, but not very
Sheikh | | |much of it (April, 1904).
Ramadan_ (Rest| | |
house) | | |
| | |
| | |From here, track is better defined
| | |and lies through forest to rocky
| | |khor. Rain pools in rocks. Small
| 5 | 34 |hill to E.
| | |
_Khor Kobshum_| 6½ | 40½ |Good going to Khor Kobshum. Water
(Rest house) | | |in large pool and again in several
| | |pools half hour further on, 1 mile
| | |W. of rocky hill with another hill
| | |further to the E.
| | |
_Khor Kobshum_| 1½ | 42 |From Kobshum, through forest, to
(Rest house) | | |Khor Klippi. Road crosses this
| | |khor —no water, but strikes it
Khor Klippi | 3½ | 45½ |again after 1 mile. Water in pool.
| | |Thence through undulating forest
| | |country, crossing many khors to
Khor Agok | 8 | 53½ |Khor Agok, plenty of water, track
(Rest house) | | |difficult to follow owing to many
| | |elephant and game roads. From Khor
| | |Agok, road crosses many khors, but
| | |none at present (April 13) holding
| | |water.
| | |
_River Chel_ | 8 | 61½ |River 100 yards wide. W. bank
(Rest house) | | |steep and high. Plenty of water in
| | |pools above and below the road;
| | |leaving Chel river track passes
_Pools in | 2½ | 64 |through slightly more open country
forest_ | | |to 2 pools with plenty of water, 1
| | |mile apart.
| | |
| | |Thence through thick forest over
| | |high ground, passing small rocky
_River Biri_ | 11 | 75 |Jebel to E. of track to River
(Rest house) | | |Biri. Plenty of water.
| | |
| | |Thence track is never far from
| | |bank of river. Bad going for
| | |animals.
| | |
River Biri | 7 | 87 |Road joins Kossinga road at Biri
| | |River, 5 miles from Deim Zubeir.
| | |
Deim Zubeir | 5 | 92 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
58.—DEIM ZUBEIR TO KOSSINGA.
BY MAJOR W. A. BOULNOIS, 8TH MAY, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Deim Zubeir | — | — |A track is followed N.N.W. down a
| | |spur of the ridge to River Biri,
_Biri River_ | 5½ | 5½ |which is crossed at some rocks in
| | |a shallow at a sharp bend, between
| | |two deep pools. Stream about 1
| | |mile an hour (23.3.01); granite
| | |boulders in the bed—trees
| | |overhanging the banks. Banks 15
| | |feet high, and steep, except at
| | |crossing; 40 yards bank to bank;
| | |very pretty scenery. Thence
| | |through forests, free from shrubs.
| | |Five and a-half miles on from the
| | |rocky spur Tuambu, a view of Hill
| | |Tokingaran about 6 miles W.N.W. is
| | |obtained; the track to Boko, where
| | |Zemio has an outpost, runs close
| | |under this hill.
| | |
| | |Half a mile further the huts of
| | |Sheikh Mattar (Kreich) are passed,
| | |and many deleib palms stud the
| | |country side. The district and a
| | |hill N.E. about 10 miles are
| | |called Deleib.
| | |
_Khor Jangwi_ | 8½ | 14 |Khor Jangwi is crossed running E.
| | |to Biri river, a small deep khor
| | |about 20 feet broad with pools; a
| | |grove of deleibs marks a good pool
| | |and camping site.
| | |
Khor Rogoko | 4½ | 18½ |Thick forest to pool Rogoko, where
| | |there is a deserted village,
_Khor | 5½ | 24 |thence no track through forest
Odagombo_ | | |past Odagombo, where there is
| | |always water, running east to
| | |Biri; ruins of village on N. side,
| | |and cross Khors Aparipi and Achon
_Sopo River_ | 19 | 43 |to River Sopo. Thick bushes on the
| | |edge of the bank impede the
| | |crossing; 70 to 80 yards broad;
| | |granite bed in places. It is
| | |crossed at a regular floor of
| | |granite rocks, stretching 200
| | |yards down the river and damming
| | |the stream at low water, thus
| | |making a fine pool above; deep
| | |drains and khors running down to
| | |the river from gradually sloping
| | |ridges, on either bank.
| | |
| | |Hence E. of N. across a bend of
| | |Sopo river, which is crossed at 12
| | |miles and followed and recrossed
| | |again at the cataract or falls of
_Kaloka_ | 20 | 63 |Kaloka, fine granite boulders and
| | |a deep pool. Shortly after the
| | |river is crossed again, and the
| | |regular track from Deim Zubeir is
| | |joined at Khor Regaba, a village
_Khor Regaba_ | 11½ | 74½ |of Mandallas on the left bank of
| | |Sopo river is passed.
| | |
Hill Lutu | — | — |Thence Sopo is left gradually a
| | |few miles E., and the Hill Lutu (a
| | |steep granite hill about 500 feet
| | |high, shaped like half an egg) is
| | |passed at 7 miles. Thence an open
| | |valley across _Khor Lutu_ where
| | |there is _always water in pools_.
| | |Quarter mile further on the
_Kossinga_ | 9½ | 84 |village of Sultan Nasser of
| | |Telgona is reached, nestling under
| | |the rocks of Kossinga, three
| | |granite peaks from 200 to 400 feet
| | |high, with trees growing up to the
| | |summit.
| | |
| | |Kossinga is a large village with
| | |about 300 inhabitants, Mandallas
| | |being the Negro portion, but the
| | |majority being a breed half Arab
| | |(Baggaras and Jaalin) and half
| | |Mandalla.
| | |
| | |Sultan Nasser lives here. The men
| | |are armed with a certain amount of
| | |Remington rifles, and a lot of
| | |useless guns of sorts. I saw four
| | |or five Lebel rifles—altogether
| | |about 200 rifles, and no doubt the
| | |outlying districts and villages
| | |would bring it up to 2,000 rifles.
| | |(?)
| | |
| | |There is a market; dura semsem,
| | |salt, bamia, beans (ful Sudani or
| | |monkeynuts) can be bought, and
| | |occasionally an Arab merchant
| | |makes his appearance and sells
| | |cloth, &c., generally coming from
| | |Omdurman.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
NOTE.—The regular track was not followed as the guide elected to
try a short route and lost his way in the forest.
59.—KOSSINGA TO WAU (FORT DESSAIX).
BY MAJOR W. A. BOULNOIS, MAY, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Kossinga | — | — |Track runs due E., passing through
| | |a small village of Shat people. At
| | |5 miles, cross Sopo river at a
| | |ford, now dry (30.3.01), to
_Lambe_ | 8 | 8 |village of Lambe, also Shat under
| | |Sultan Nasser. The Shat tribe is
| | |an off-shoot of Shilluk tribe. The
| | |Luju khor joins the Sopo just S.
| | |of track. Marshy ground for ¼ mile
| | |from each bank of latter.
| | |
| | |Thence just S. of E. through
| | |forest, ground slightly
| | |undulating, pass well and Khor
_Khor Angejok_| 7½ | 15½ |Angejok where there is water. When
| | |pool dries, well is open. Bad
| | |going owing to elephant tracks
| | |across the khor; less than 3 miles
| | |further on, the old Government
| | |track from Deim Zubeir to Shakka
| | |is crossed, now scarcely used.
| | |
_Khor | 6½ | 22 |Water is always found in Khor
Lashirek_ | | |Lashirek in pools, and in a pool ½
| | |mile S. of track in Khor Babbi;
_Khor Babbi_ | 5 | 27 |always water. Hence the track runs
| | |slightly N. of E., and is much
| | |intercepted by trees and bushes in
| | |places for the next 8 or 10 miles,
| | |then fairly open across Khors
| | |Enniar and Adda Tumia, both dry
_Khor Ayala_ | 25 | 52 |(1.4.01), to a well at Khor Ayala,
| | |in which there is a little water.
| | |Good track, going scarcely
| | |impeded. The well here is only
| | |opened when the pool in khor dries
| | |up.
| | |
Abuia | 16 | 68 |Ironstone surface till Shat
| | |village Abuia is reached. This is
| | |in the district of the Dinka chief
| | |Chak Chak of Chamamui.
| | |
_River Biri or| 4 | 72 |Thence to River Biri, known as
Chel_ | | |Chel here, open low ground for 1
| | |mile before reaching the river,
| | |which is 60 to 100 yards broad,
| | |sandy bottom, banks 10 to 15 feet
| | |high, very little water (2.4.01),
| | |ankle deep at the ford, which is
Chamamui | — | — |only 10 feet broad. Then up a
| | |gradual slope to high ground for ¼
| | |mile to house of Sheikh or Sultan
| | |Chak Chak (Dinka). A large village
| | |with fine situation on long hill
| | |sloping to the bank of the river.
| | |Government post here.
| | |
| | |Track goes from ford slightly E.
| | |of S. to S.E. through much dura,
| | |and then E.S.E. past several huts
| | |to Village Dambo at 2 miles and
| | |Akot at 4 miles, both inhabited by
| | |Dinkas and Golos to high ground,
_Khor Alalla_ | 14 | 86 |ironstone surface to Khor Alalla
| | |or Mali where there is always
| | |water, 15 yards wide, broad banks
| | |12 feet high and very steep. This
| | |khor flows from N. of Deim Idris
| | |and empties into the Chel or Biri.
| | |
| | |Half a mile further is the village
| | |of Alalla (Dinkas) subject to Chak
| | |Chak.
| | |
_Well Hadid_ | 7½ | 93½ |Hence track goes S.E. pass Well
| | |Hadid and well in Khor Babbai,
_Khor Babbai_ | 4 | 97½ |where there are some huts and
| | |cultivation, now deserted.
| | |
Khor Kum | 15 | 112½ |Thence to Khor and Well Kum,
| | |latter giving very little water
| | |(Sparkes says plentiful and good,
| | |and never dry, January, 1903).
| | |Good going past ironstone ridge,
| | |Ruku 60 feet high, no view
| | |obtainable across Khor Ungu a
_Khor Ajak_ | 17½ | 130 |tributary of Khor Ajak, which
| | |latter is crossed with some
| | |difficulty in the rains, to
Khor Atta | 2 | 132 |village of Attah, close to right
| | |bank of Khor Ajak. Golos, Jurs and
| | |Dinkas under powerful Dinka chief
| | |Agaka, brother of Chak Chak. The
| | |district is called Ajak.
| | |
| | |Thence good track unimpeded S.E.
| | |to S. to the marshes of the Bongo
| | |river, with woods on right bank 3
| | |miles distant. The track skirts
| | |the marshes of the left bank,
| | |going along the high ground and
| | |fringe of the forest. Khors
| | |Dengmelah and Akweya (running into
| | |the river from W.) are crossed at
| | |5 and 7 miles respectively; and 7
| | |miles further on the track strikes
| | |E. across the marsh, ½ mile to
_River Bongo_ | — | — |Bongo river, which is crossed and
| | |goes to the village of Lang (Jur)
_Lang_ | 15 | 147 |on right bank at the edge of the
| | |forest.
| | |
_Deimgnaui_ | 7 | 154 |Thence southerly along edge of
| | |forest and swamp, across Khor
| | |Wartum to Deimgnaui. The old
| | |zeriba is now in ruins.
| | |
| | |Many Golo, Bari and Ndogo villages
| | |are passed, Khor Warur (with water
| | |being crossed 1 mile S. of
| | |Deimgnaui).
| | |
_Damuri_ | 13 | 167 |Track goes due S. to house of
| | |Sheikh Kayanga, with a fine zeriba
| | |and the British and Egyptian flags
| | |flying at Damuri, past more
_Bukanda_ | 5 | 172 |villages with much dura, crossing
| | |Khors Kambang and Akoli to Bukanda
| | |a village of Baris.
| | |
| | |Thence S.E. through jungle for 12
| | |miles till the house of Sheikh
| | |Salim Bari is passed, then 1 mile
_Khor Gitti_ | 16 | 188 |to Khor Gitti, which is crossed 2
| | |miles lower down; 1 mile further
| | |S.E. is the village of Sheikh
| | |Ambua Indogo, where there is much
| | |dura.
| | |
Marhu | 7 | 195 |Thence over high ground—no
| | |villages—passing ruins of old
| | |zeriba Marhu of which a few brick
| | |foundations only are visible,
| | |descending into the Jur and Dinka
| | |village of Nuara, Sheikhs Melong
Nuara | 9 | 204 |and Mill respectively.
| | |
Wau Post | 6 | 210 |Thence the track is much
| | |intercepted by bushes in places to
| | |Wau Post, crossing Khor Ganna ¾
| | |mile from the zeriba.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
60.—KOSSINGA TO HOFRAT EL NAHAS.
BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES, MARCH, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Kossinga | — | — |
| | |
_Khor Lutu_ | 3 | 3 |Cross Khor Lutu, now dry, but for
| | |pools. Direction S.W. Going good.
| | |
| 8 | 11 |_Small pool_—reported dry in
| | |March.
| | |
_River Ragaa_ | 5 | 16 |Good going all way to river, which
| | |is here 100 to 150 yards broad, 15
| | |feet banks—now small stream 2 feet
| | |deep. It later on joins River
| | |Boru, and finally, after junction
| | |with it, the Bahr El Arab. J.
| | |Dandu, rocky hill about 300 feet
| | |high, lies 2 or 3 miles to S.
| | |
_Ragaa_ | 10 | 26 |Chief town of Sultan Musa Hamed,
| | |the Faroge chief, well situated on
| | |rising ground. River Ragaa flows
| | |at foot. Good going all way from
| | |Kossinga over slightly undulating
| | |ground, with occasional rocky
| | |excrescences, not big enough to be
| | |called hills, but big enough to
| | |notice in this dead flat country.
| | |
_Membera_ | 7 | 33 |From Ragaa track lies W.N.W., and
| | |is good. Scattered villages,
| | |called Membera. Sheikhs Futu and
| | |Adam.
| | |
_Khor Rakib El| 8 | 41 |Small well, always gives water,
Gamal_ | | |now (17th Feb.) pool with ample
| | |water, but drying up fast.
| | |
_Khor Ronda_ | 6½ | 47½ |Fair going through bush and scrub,
| | |crossing two dry khors and passing
| | |a pool with water 4 miles from
| | |Rakib El Gamal.
| | |
_Khor Metemma_| 3 | 50½ |Always water.
| | |
_River Boru_ | 11 | 61½ |Good going through many Lulu trees
| | |to river and village of Boru,
| | |Sheikh Futer. About largest tree
| | |yet seen in Bahr El Ghazal—some
| | |sort of acacia—in centre of
| | |village, near Sheikh’s house.
| | |River is 1¼ mile from village,
| | |very similar to Ragaa, and
| | |formidable obstacle in rains.
| | |
| 11 | 72½ |Fair going, passing through two
| | |villages to pool where there is
| | |always water. Now marching almost
| | |N. through very hilly country,
| | |gravelly soil and track like a
| | |switchback. Chain of tree-covered
| | |hill on W., called Jebel I, and on
| | |E. called Jebel Yarkar.
| | |
_Jebel I_ | 5½ | 78 |Pool, always water at foot of
| | |Jebel I.
| | |
Bashum | 12 | 90 |Fair going over up and down
| | |country, occasionally cut by
| | |elephant tracks, to village of
| | |Sheikh Bashum. People: Kreich and
| | |Faroge, under Sultan Musa. This is
| | |N. limit of Musa’s people. Jebel
| | |Umbelanda lies 5 or 6 miles to W.
| | |
_Khor Dikki_ | 5 | 95 |Track lies through Umbelanda
| | |range. Direction N.N.W. Always
| | |water in Khor Dikki.
| | |
_Khor Monio_ | 6 | 101 |Always water.
| | |
_River | 6 | 107 |Always water. Nearly 100 yards
Shaliko_ | | |across; shelving banks. Runs into
| | |Bahr El Arab. Very pretty spot.
| | |
_Khor Dimkano_| 4 | 111 |Track now lies W. of N.W. Always
| | |water at Dimkano, but “fly” very
| | |bad indeed.
| | |
_River Siri_ | 9 | 120 |Sandy bed, 80 to 90 yards wide;
| | |banks 10 to 12 feet. Water always
| | |obtainable by scratching hole in
| | |sand. Runs into Bahr El Arab.
| | |
_Khor Bapa_ | 5 | 125 |Rocky khor; always water in pools.
| | |
Jebel Paya | 6 | 131 |Jebel Paya lies to E. of track;
| | |other hills on all sides. Good
| | |going, but much up and down.
| | |
_River Rikki_ | 4 | 135 |Similar to Siri, but always open
| | |water, and banks very steep. Track
| | |now N. of N.W.
| | |
_Khor Vongo_ | 7 | 142 |Always water.
| | |
_Kafikingi_ | 8 | 150 |Village of Sultan Ibrahim Murad
| | |(Kreich). 200 to 250 huts;
| | |scattered, and somewhat
| | |dilapidated. Small stream ½ mile
| | |from village, always holds water
| | |and fish. Last 15 miles about N.W.
| | |
_River Adda_ | 10 | 160 |Track now to N.N.E. Good going
| | |through thick wood along main road
| | |to Kalaka. River Adda 60 to 80
| | |yards wide, banks 10 to 12 feet;
| | |stream running E., now but little
| | |water.
| | |
| 11 | 171 |Follow Kalaka road for 11 miles,
| | |along valley of Adda, then cross
| | |river and strike slightly W. of
| | |N., leaving all signs of a track,
| | |as old Hofrat El Nahas road is
| | |entirely obliterated, and going
| | |bad and difficult.
| | |
_Khor Gugu_ | 2½ | 173½ |Across Adda plain to Khor Gugu,
| | |where always water.
| | |
Jebel Teni | 7½ | 181 |An old well at foot of jebel, but
| | |at present choked and useless.
| | |
Khor Unwolo | 8 | 189 |Dry khor. Track now runs N.N.W.
| | |
_Kafrmoya_ | 6 | 195 |Large pool now (28th Feb.); ample
| | |water. Many rhino about here.
| | |
_River | 4 | 199 |Through sites of long abandoned
Umbelacha_ | | |villages to River Umbelacha;
(Bahr El | | |guides, &c., only know it by this
Fertit) | | |name. River runs E., but little
| | |water at present; but fine stream
| | |when full, 80 to 100 yards broad,
| | |10 to 12 feet banks; bed alternate
| | |rock and sand. Seventy to 80 miles
| | |to E., this river joins River
| | |Adda, the two forming Bahr El
| | |Arab.
| | |
Hofrat El | 1 | 200 |Copper mines of Hofrat El Nahas
Nahas | | |lie 1 mile to S. of river, consist
| | |of number of shallow pits covering
| | |½ mile square. Whole country round
| | |absolutely deserted, and no people
| | |have lived here since first rising
| | |of Mahdism, when Ibrahim Murad and
| | |his people—the former
| | |inhabitants—went to Kafikingi,
| | |which is now nearest village.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
61.—RAGAA TO DEIM ZUBEIR.
BY COLONEL SPARKES, C.M.G., MARCH, 1903.
[Sidenote: Roads.]
Roads everywhere fair, except between River Adda and Hofrat El Nahas,
where no track at all, and in parts between Ragaa and Deim Zubeir
which require clearing of undergrowth and bush. This is now being done.
[Sidenote: Game.]
Game is plentiful near rivers and khors still holding water. No
elephants seen, but they must be very numerous in rains, from many
tracks which cut up roads in parts.
[Sidenote: Trade goods.]
Cloth and clothing asked for everywhere. Hard cash taken at Kossinga
and Ragaa.
[Sidenote: Water.]
In dry season ample water to be found at no greater distance apart
than 21 miles.
[Sidenote: Rivers and khors.]
In rains the many rivers and khors would take a lot of time and
trouble to cross, and a Berthon boat would be indispensable.
[Sidenote: Camps, &c.]
Fair camping grounds found almost everywhere and wood always.
[Sidenote: Fly.]
Fly is bad everywhere, and would be probably fatal to horses or
camels. Strong healthy mules and donkeys seem to stand it, but weak,
sickly and those with bad sores succumb.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Ragaa_ | — | — |Track lies slightly W. of S., good
| | |going through thick wood to small
_Khor_ | 13 | 13 |khor where always water.
| | |
| 3½ | 16½ |Another small khor where always
| | |water; whole country slightly
| | |undulating.
| | |
J. Legai | 7 | 23½ |Bare rocky mass about 100 feet
| | |high to right of track. Other
| | |hills, Tara, Jojeni and Goza, to
| | |E. and S.E.
| | |
| 5½ | 29 |Cross deep narrow khor, now dry,
| | |and soon after enter regular
| | |network of ridges of bare black
| | |granite called Mungiat. Track now
| | |slightly E. of S.
| | |
_J. Mungiat_ | 1½ | 30½ |Scattered village, Sheikh Zanga,
| | |under Musa Hamed. For next 4 miles
| | |track lies along narrow valley
| | |between ridges of bare granite,
| | |crossing Khor Barmindiat, in which
| | |always water, four times.
| | |
_Shobindi_ | 5½ | 36 |Scattered villages of Sheikh
| | |Shobindi, head Sheikh of all
| | |Mungiat district, an old man
| | |almost blind, under Musa Hamed.
| | |Sultan Nasser Andel also has
| | |people near here.
| | |
| 4½ | 40½ |Khor about ¼ mile to left of
| | |track, always water. Track now
| | |lies S.E.; is narrow and impeded
| | |by bushes.
| | |
_River Koko_ | 12 | 52½ |Narrow river, always water;
| | |difficult to cross even when half
| | |full. Runs into Sopo.
| | |
| 1½ | 54 |Small khor, always water.
| | |
_River Sopo_ | 9 | 63 |Bad going through thick bush, and
| | |cross a stony hill and River Sopo,
| | |50 yards wide, good deal water
| | |still and slight current. Very
| | |difficult in rains.
| | |
Guji | 12 | 75 |Beginning of Kreich villages under
| | |Sheikh Minni Bey, which are
| | |scattered over several miles.
| | |
_River Biri_ | 7 | 82 |Very similar to Sopo.
| | |
_Deim Zubeir_ | 5 | 87 |Pass two small Kreich villages and
| | |arrive Government Post of Deim
| | |Zubeir, well situated on old site,
| | |on rising ground. Khor Ujuku at
| | |foot, now almost dry; fair water
| | |got from wells. Reported healthy.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
62.—KOJALI TO TONJ.
BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES, JULY, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Poste Arsenal | — | — |Cross from left to right bank of
or Kojali | | |Jur River, which is 150 yards
| | |wide, 12 feet deep at banks, and
| | |20 feet deep in channel, current 4
| | |miles an hour; crossing a matter
| | |of some difficulty, as have only a
| | |small Berthon boat and a dug-out;
| | |it takes some hours, but is
| | |effected without casualties.
| | |
_Kana’s_ | 5½ | 5½ |The going on right bank much
village | | |better than on left bank. There is
| | |a good track, and grass as a rule
| | |not more than waist high; on other
| | |side it was frequently 6 feet or 8
| | |feet high. Village of Kana-Rewa, a
| | |brother of Tembura’s, is well
| | |built and well kept. Kana’s
| | |“Mbanga” or private enclosure
| | |surrounded by banana trees. Cross
| | |two small khors en route. Village
| | |consists of 40 to 50 scattered
| | |huts.
| | |
Khor | 3 | 8½ |Our track now lies to N.E., and we
| | |gradually leave Jur River. Khor is
| | |12 feet wide and 3 feet deep.
| | |
| 2 | 10½ |Ravine with small khor at bottom.
| | |
Khor Sur | 7 | 17½ |Twenty feet wide and 5 feet deep,
| | |runs into Jur.
| | |
_Khor Beilo_ | ½ | 18 |Small khor 2 feet deep.
| | |
| 8½ | 26½ |Marsh, but not bad crossing.
| | |
J. Hibi | 3 | 29½ |Rocky mass of sort of grey
| | |granite, site of final battle
| | |between Nyam Nyams and Bongos,
| | |which lasted 6 days, when latter
| | |were utterly defeated.
| | |
Khor Kumio | 1 | 30½ |Fifteen feet wide, 2 feet to 6
| | |feet deep. Village of Bongos,
| | |slaves of Sheikh Kana, just beyond
| | |khor.
| | |
Khor | 7 | 37½ |Small khor, 10 feet wide, 18
| | |inches deep.
| | |
_Ndoruma’s | 2 | 39½ |Village of Ndoruma Rewa, another
village_ | | |brother of Tembura; it is quite
| | |new, only having been built within
| | |last few months. Very similar in
| | |size, &c., to Kana’s village, and
| | |is the extreme northern outpost of
| | |the Nyam Nyams.
| | |
| 2½ | 42 |Marsh 100 yards wide, at present
| | |only 6 feet deep; another marsh
| | |200 yards wide, but not yet bad
| | |crossing.
| | |
Village | 5½ | 47½ |Ndoruma’s old village, abandoned 2
| | |months ago, huts all still
| | |standing and in good order.
| | |
Khor | 11 | 58½ |Small khor, dry in winter.
| | |
Khor | 2½ | 61 |Small khor, dry in winter.
| | |
Khor Wolo | 17 | 78 |Dry in winter.
| | |
_Khor | 3½ | 81½ |More a marsh than a khor, said to
Kordabella_ | | |be never dry, much cut up by
| | |elephant tracks, and have
| | |considerable difficulty with
| | |animals in crossing.
| | |
_Khor Gutong_ | 6½ | 88 |Said to have always water running
| | |to N., and rather fancy this may
| | |be River Mulmul under another
| | |name.
| | |
_Khor Mungara_| 3 | 91 |Always contains water, more a
| | |marsh than a khor, with muddy
| | |holding bottom and cut up by
| | |elephant tracks, 100 yards wide,
| | |and have to carry loads across as
| | |laden animals fall and stick in
| | |mud.
| | |
_River Tonj_ | 15½ | 106½ |River plain here, some 3 miles
| | |wide, follow left bank, trees up
| | |to river edge on right bank. River
| | |almost full, and about 40 yards
| | |wide.
| | |
| 15½ | 122 |River here makes great bend to W.
| | |and comes up to edge of trees, the
| | |river plain now being on right
| | |bank, but this is only for a short
| | |distance, as a rule the plain is
| | |on left bank.
| | |
_Khor_ | 4 | 126 |Deep khor running from W. to
| | |river; cross by going 1½ miles to
Tonj Post | 3 | 129 | N.W.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
63—TONJ TO RUMBEK.
BY CAPTAIN E. H. ARMSTRONG, FEBRUARY, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Tonj | — | — |Road from Tonj crosses river close
| | |to, but N. of station, and
| 3 | 3 |continues slightly N. of E to
| | |forest 3 miles, and on N. along
| 3 | 6 |edge of forest 3 miles more to
| | |where river approaches close to
| | |it. From there road E. and N.E.
| | |through forest, passing elephant
| | |swamp (dry by January) to village
_Sheikh Senug_| 11 | 17 |of Sheikh Senug. Rakuba, two
| | |wells, 20 feet N. of rakuba,
| | |distance 11 miles. Road from there
| | |past villages of Sheikh Bol and
| | |through forest, direction E. to
| | |_well in Khor Mahok_ under a
| | |gemmeiza tree.
| | |
_Wag Abak_ | 21½ | 38½ |Village of Wag Abak, Sheikh Gehak.
| | |No water in between, distance 21½
| | |miles. Water can be brought from
| | |village Paag, N. of wood to spot
| | |4½ miles W. of gemmeiza tree, if
| | |word is sent beforehand. Road
| | |continues S.E. across Khor Mahok,
| | |wet in January, passing village of
| | |Riang (another Sheikh Gehak), also
| | |village of Rihan.
| | |
_Gochin_ | 7 | 45½ |Hamada, interpreter, to village of
| | |Gochin, Sheikh Mabiur; two empty
| | |forts on W. bank of river Gell,
| | |distance 7 miles. On E. across
| | |river, then N.E. through village
| | |of Sheikh Markoj (Panchoi) to
_Sheikh Jok | 6½ | 52 |village of Sheikh Jok Dau, 6½
Dau_ | | |miles. Pool of good water on S. of
| | |village, and post and rest house
| | |in village. Road continues across
| | |village through forest, passing
_Sheikh | 12 | 64 |corner of Khor Toj to village of
Marnal_ | | |Sheikh Marnal; wells in village
| | |and pool on E. side, 12 miles.
| | |From there road S.E. along edge of
| | |Khor Toj through Fanagai, Sheikh
| | |Gran, distance 7 miles, and on 5
| | |miles more to village of Sheikh
| | |Ateng, and 1 mile more to Khor
_Khor Gulman_ | 13 | 77 |Gurman (or Gulman), where there is
| | |a bridge. From there to Khor
Khor Abeir | 9 | 86 |Abeir, 9 miles, and from Abeir to
| | |Rumbek 9 miles more.
| | |
Rumbek | 9 | 95 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
64.—RUMBEK TO SHAMBE.
BY CAPTAIN E. H. ARMSTRONG, 11TH FEBRUARY, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Rumbek | — | — |From Rumbek, road starts E. and
| | |S.E. for 6 miles to where a well
| | |has been dug out on N. of road,
| | |then S., S.E., and S. for 10 miles
_Adwolians_ | 16 | 16 |to well in Adwolians. Best well at
| | |a tobacco garden.
| | |
| | |Good road through burnt villages;
| | |sandy.
| | |
| | |From Adwolian, road due E. to
| | |through village and bit of forest
| | |to edge of forest on valley of
R. Naam | 6 | 22 |Naam river. To river bed, 3 miles,
| | |and across plain and khors to edge
| | |of forest on E. 2½ miles more;
| 2½ | 24½ |going very bad, much cut up by
| | |elephants; valley requires
| | |causeway and bridging very badly;
| | |grass very high. From Naam, road
Takidur | 3 | 27½ |due E., passing burnt-out village
| | |of Takidur after 3 miles, and
| | |dried up khor called river Laik
| | |(same as M’Buri of Feniar) 3 miles
| | |further on.
| | |
_R. Laik_ | 3 | 30½ |Close by on further side is Mera
| | |of Sheikhs Ateir Marial and
| | |Agiong, Agars, latter of Ayak, and
| | |adjoining is village of Galik. A
| | |well has been dug in khor, N. of
| | |Mera 5 minutes. Water in lake up
| | |to end of December, then found in
| | |pool further N. of that well up to
| | |February, perhaps later. From here
| | |road S.E. through Galik, 20
| | |minutes, and turns E. to village
Akot | 6 | 36½ |Akot 6 miles distant.
| | |
| 2 | 38½ |Two miles more to far side of
| | |village. Road good, sandy, over
| | |high ground; water very far from
| | |surface. From Akot, road due E. to
| 3 | 41½ |pool 3 miles, which had water
| | |until 15th January, boundary of
| 2 | 43½ |Atwots and Agars; 2 miles on to
| | |
_Apiot_ | 1 | 44½ |Atwot Mera, and 1 more to village
| | |of Apiot and Fort. At Apiot 10
| | |good wells give water all the
| | |year. People are friendly and
| | |ready to help, but are not fond of
| | |carrying work. They are more manly
| | |and straightforward than the
| | |Agars, and I have hopes that they
| | |are not so treacherous in
| | |disposition. They carry bows and
| | |arrows as well as spears. From the
| | |fort, road is N.E., through
| | |villages of Chediop and Mogar
| | |which join each other, then
| | |through forest across deserted
| | |village of Manibin 9 miles on; to
Manibin | 9½ | 54 |pool 3 miles; then through old
| | |mudiria with _many small wells_
| 3 | 57 |which do not require much digging
| | |to keep them open all the year, 3
| 3 | 60 |miles.
| | |
| 2 | 62 |After 2 more miles valley of Lau
| | |is reached, commencing with khor
| | |and pool with water all the year.
| | |Up to here road was good, soil
| | |very sandy, small belt of forest
| | |before reaching river valley.
| | |Onwards the soil is sandy for 2 or
| | |3 miles, then is composed of the
| | |usual black soil of the river
| | |valleys.
| | |
_R. Lau_ | 6 | 68 |From the pool to first branch of
| | |Lau river 6 miles, and 2 more on
| | |to second and larger branch, then
| 4 | 72 |2 more on to camp at edge of
| | |forest and village Sheikh Shrun.
| | |River valley very bad, much cut up
| | |and almost impassable, even
| | |without Hamla during rains; 7 or 8
| | |khors as well as 2 branches of
| | |river to cross. Requires a good
| | |road made across valley. From Lau,
| | |road E., through villages for 3 or
| | |4 miles, then through forest N.E.
Ajak | 24 | 96 |to villages and _wells of Ajak_
| | |and Gour, total 24 miles. Road cut
| | |up much by elephants, and in
| | |places grass very high. Village of
| | |Ajak, ground very sandy and bad
| | |for marching. From Ajak, similar
| | |road N.E. to Shambe, forest all
Shambe | 20 | 116 |the way except last 2 miles, total
| | |20 miles.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
NOTE.—Rivers Naam and Lau flow at about 4 miles an hour in flood,
and about 3 miles an hour or less when flood is over. The Naam is
about 10 feet deep in flood, the eastern bank of Lau 12 and western 10
feet. After rains both rivers fall to about 2 feet deep, and western
branch of Lau is dry from March to May.
65.—RUMBEK TO DARAGO’S AND M’VOLO.
BY CAPTAIN P. WOOD, APRIL, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Rumbek | — | — |
| | |
_Khor Ronga_ | 6½ | 6½ |Half mile in width, quite dry by
| | |1st January, 1904. Good water
| | |always obtainable from deep pools
| | |in swamp at S. edge of khor. Very
| | |good track.
| | |
_Large | 11 | 17½ |Two wells close by. Fair water;
Gemmeiza_ tree| | |good supply. Track good.
at Sheikh | | |
Keli’s old | | |
village | | |
| | |
_Well_ in | 8 | 25½ |Deep well. Indifferent water—thick
shallow khor | | |and much discoloured from clayey
on right edge | | |nature of soil.
of track, half| | |
mile S. of | | |
Jati’s old | | |
house | | |
| | |
_Sheikh | 10 | 35½ |Water obtainable close at hand.
Mornyang’s_ | | |Good track.
house in | | |
Zeriba | | |
| | |
_Rihan’s | 7½ | 43 |Water obtainable close at hand.
house_ | | |
| | |
_Sheikh | 14 | 57 |Water ½ a mile distant.
Toinye’s_ | | |
| | |
_Darago’s_ | 7 | 64 |On bank of Naam river.
| | |
_J. Gurshen_ | 5 | 69 |Water from adjacent khor.
(Sheikh Mehl’s| | |
village) | | |
| | |
_S. G. Post at| 9 | 78 |Water from adjacent khor, also
Sheikh Agon’s_| | |obtainable from Naam river.
| | |
M’volo | 3 | 81 |On edge of Naam river—right
| | |bank—at rapids, encircled on land
| | |side (E.) by perpendicular high
| | |granite rocks.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
66.—M’VOLO TO KIRO (BAHR EL JEBEL).
BY COLONEL SPARKES, C.M.G., MARCH, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
M’volo | 3½ | — |Site of old Government station on
| | |left bank, no sign of it left. New
| | |station now occupied by Government
| | |troops. This is a pretty spot. The
| | |river, now a tiny stream of clear
| | |water, falls over a mass of rocks
| | |and winds through great boulders,
| | |great rocky ridges line either
| | |bank, and many deleib palms assist
| | |in the attractiveness of scene.
| | |Swarms of guinea fowl about here.
| | |
| | |Track leaves river and goes E. and
| | |passes through country more bush
| | |than wood, numerous small trees 6
| | |to 10 feet high, with light green
| | |leaves, called umduti by locals.
| | |
_Modo Village_| 2 | 2 |Sheikh Umbo; village burnt by
| | |Nyam-Nyam Sheikh Tembura less than
| | |two weeks ago, when he raided
| | |whole country. Track now to N. of
| | |E. District Leizi ends and that of
| | |Kremu begins.
| | |
_Kremu | 1½ | 3½ |One large and three small wells
Village_ and | | |here, giving ample supply of fair
District | | |water, said to be dry before rains
| | |begin, but now in large well 4½
| | |feet of water and diameter of well
| | |7 feet. Track from Kremu fairly
| | |well marked, same sort of country,
| | |few more lulu trees. Gentle slopes
_Khor Degaga_ | 15 | 18½ |up and down to plains, swamps in
| | |rains. Two khors which have now
| | |ample water (19th February, 1901),
| | |said to be dry in another month,
| | |but a permanent pool called
| | |Kulokho reported close by.
| | |
_Village_ | 1½ | 20 |Madi village, at present unnamed,
(Bufi District| | |being built to replace one burnt
begins) | | |by Nyam-Nyam raiders.
| | |
| | |Cross two khors which would cause
| | |some trouble in rains.
| | |
_Balabbi_ | 4½ | 24½ |Madi village, Sheikh Wanga, in
Village | | |Bufi district.
| | |
_River Rodi or| 4 | 28½ |A very fine river when full, now
Yei_ | | |three or four separate streams,
| | |beautifully clear water 6 to 8
| | |inches deep, running through sandy
| | |bed. Banks 15 to 20 feet high, and
| | |100 to 150 yards apart. River
| | |valley as before described, only
| | |about ½ mile wide here. Lion heard
| | |at night, but game not very
| | |plentiful. Best trade goods in
| | |Gehri, Sofi, Leizi, Kremu and Bufi
| | |districts; cloth and beads, then
| | |brass, copper wire, or copper.
| | |
_Bufi_ | 2 | 30½ |A bad road for 2 miles after
| | |crossing river, then old
| | |Government station Bufi, on river
| | |edge, right bank. Earthwork and
| | |ditch about 100 yards square all
| | |that remains. Track away from
| | |river to S.E. through thick bush.
| | |
_Namusha | 2 | 32½ |Large dura patch and two fair-
District_ | | |sized villages; now in Namusha
| | |district.
| | |
| 3 | 35½ |Another dura patch and village.
| | |
_Wira_ | 3½ | 39 |Strike river again at clearing
District, late| | |lately occupied by Belgians. Trees
Belgian Post | | |grow to water’s edge on both banks
| | |about here, a pretty spot.
| | |Belgians are known to natives as
| | |Tuktuk (Askari) and Kiro as
| | |Simsim. No special name for late
| | |Belgian post; it is in Wira
| | |district.
| | |
_Dori Village_| 3½ | 42½ |Track lies E. of S., cutting off
| | |bend of river, and indifferent
| | |going over several dry khors.
| | |
_Fashitaura_ | 3 | 45½ |Still in Wira district, track been
| | |bending W. of S.
| | |
_J. Yaira_, | 1½ | 47 |A mass of black rock about 100
beginning of | | |feet high and some 300 yards long,
Tokuera | | |full of caves and used as hiding
District | | |places for natives during raids,
| | |is about ½ mile from river. Trees
| | |still to water’s edge, and the
| | |wide valleys of rivers further N.
| | |seem to have disappeared. Cross
| | |several dry khors.
| | |
| 2 | 49 |Many deleib palms near river.
| | |
_Village_ | 2 | 51 |Small village; track lying S.E.
| | |
| 1 | 52 |Through thick low scrub with no
| | |trees for about 1½ miles.
| | |
| 3 | 55 |Cross dry khor and through mass of
| | |black rocks which crop up now all
| | |along track at intervals; country
| | |much more up and down, now no
| | |longer dead flat.
| | |
Village | 2 | 57 |Pass through more scrub.
| | |
Jebel Dubbo | 3 | 60 |Two high peaks of black rock
| | |connected by ridge, track now to
| | |S.W.
| | |
_Beri-Beri | 3 | 63 |Touch river again first time for
Village_ | | |14 miles; village about ½ mile
District | | |from river, now small stream
Tokuera | | |through rocks, trees to edge both
| | |sides.
| | |
_Amadi_ | 5½ | 68½ |Old Government station, earthwork
| | |and ditch 200 yards square on
| | |river bank, good situation, and
| | |village Keini, Sheikh Niari-Paka,
| | |about ¼ mile outside work and few
| | |huts inside. Cross several dry
| | |khors _en route_ to old station;
| | |country pretty, many elephant
| | |tracks. Best trade goods, Tokuera
| | |district, cloth and beads. Leave
| | |River Rodi, the track for Kiro
| | |lies first to N.E., skirting round
| | |N. side of Jebel Dubbo; going bad
| | |until clear of outlying rocks,
| | |then fair villages both on E. and
| | |W. side of Jebel Dubbo, the former
| | |lately burnt by Nyam-Nyams from
| | |Makarakaland. Cross two khors
| | |running from Jebel to river; many
| | |such, now dry, khors with sandy
| | |and well defined banks, lined with
| | |trees run into River Rodi, a
| | |feature entirely lacking in rivers
| | |more to N.
| | |
Khor | 9 | 77½ |Large dry khor running N. and S.;
| | |track still to N. and E.
| | |
_Mandia_ | 1 | 78½ |Sheikh Dia, large compact village
| | |with quantity dura grown round it,
| | |water in well, never dry.
| | |
_Numali | 6 | 84½ |Large village, quantity of dura
Village_ | | |round; Sheikh Waga-Lanio,
| | |intelligent man; ample water from
| | |wells, never dry. Track still to
| | |N. of E.; going good, generally
| | |bush, few large trees. One mile to
| | |E. after leaving Numali, then N.
| | |of E. again, and village Murra,
| | |Sheikh Gureh, more commonly called
| | |Bilal. One small well ½ mile past
| | |village, but gives ample water and
| | |reported never dry.
| | |
| | |Track from here lies to S. a great
| | |deal and zigzags a lot, but always
| | |trending well S. of E. Fine going
| | |through thick bush.
| | |
_Mudo_ | 10½ | 95 |Sheikh Nier Magura, one well
| | |similar to that of Murra.
| | |
Khor | 3½ | 98½ |Large khor, now dry, running N.
| | |and S. Track now about S.E.
| | |
Khor | 6 | 104½ |Another large dry khor running N.
| | |and S., with sandy bed, track
| | |still to S. of E.
| | |
Vura Village | 1 | 105½ |Sheikh Di-Aniara; now in Kederu
| | |district, people still Madis.
| | |Track from here lies to E.
| | |
Kederu | 3 | 108½ |Now dry, except for occasional
District, | | |pools; sandy bed about 70 yards
_River Tafari_| | |wide, banks 8 feet high,
| | |apparently does not overflow.
| | |Natives say water always
| | |obtainable by scraping hole few
| | |feet deep in sandy bed. Fine trees
| | |line banks. Rhinoceros, elephant,
| | |buffalo, and various antelopes
| | |found near, also partridge and
| | |guinea fowl, but latter very wild.
| | |
| | |From River Tafari track lies S. of
| | |E., and about 5 miles from river
| | |we cross to S. of 5° 30′ parallel
| | |and proceed through wood, now open
| | |and good easy going, now thick,
| | |and bad going, cross a few dried
| | |up swamps, and pass three villages
| | |destroyed by fire.
| | |
| 25 | 133½ |Lulu trees appear again in
| | |considerable numbers.
| | |
_Nyambara | 10 | 143½ |Sheikh Volo-Likah of Nyambara
District, | | |tribe (the Yambara of Felkin and
Metika Village| | |Junker); small newly opened well
(small well)_ | | |here, giving very limited supply
| | |of water, just sufficient for
| | |half-pint per man (45 men), but
| | |nothing for animals. Up to a few
| | |days ago people had been drinking
| | |from khors now dry. Between River
| | |Tafari and here absolutely
| | |uninhabited and at this time of
| | |the year waterless. A month ago
| | |ample water would be found in
| | |birkas and khors. In Nyambara
| | |district people now wretchedly
| | |poor and miserable, and generally
| | |bolted at our approach; huts few,
| | |small and badly built. From here
| | |track lies first to S.E., then to
| | |E. (?) through thick bush.
| | |
Golela Village| 3½ | 147 |Sheikh Galenga-Lembu, fine looking
| | |intelligent man; Nyambaras speak
| | |quite a different language to
| | |Madis, and appear a low caste of
| | |people.
| | |
_Well (fair | 2½ | 149½ |Two and half miles from village,
supply)_ | | |one well about 20 feet deep, from
| | |which about fifteen gallons can be
| | |got. Reported never to fail.
| | |
| | |Track slight N. of E., soil
| | |getting sandy barren, much thorn
| | |and scrub.
| | |
| 14 | 163½ |Jebel Lado visible about 25 miles
| | |to S. of E. Track again slightly
| | |to S. of E. and country still
| | |barren and desolate.
| | |
| 9½ | 173 |An abandoned Belgian post.
| | |
_Small well_ | ½ | 173½ |Very limited supply of water,
| | |about two gallons obtainable per
| | |hour with much difficulty.
| | |
Khor | 22 | 195½ |Large khor comes in from Bahr El
| | |Jebel.
| | |
| | |Track last 20 miles about E. and
| | |up khor country still a
| | |wilderness.
| | |
_Kiro, Belgian| 3 | 198½ |To N.E. or khor on river edge. A
Post_ | | |now dry khor bounds post to N.
| | |Post consists of extensive
| | |collection of brick built houses
| | |and huts, and has accommodation
| | |for several hundred men.
| | |Surrounded by wooden stockade.
| | |
Anglo-Egyptian| 3 | 201½ |To N. of Belgian Post on water’s
Post | | |edge, stands well above river and
| | |surrounded by trees. This post was
| | |abandoned in May, 1901.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
N.B.—Distances probably slightly exaggerated, specially from Amadi,
as far from there we generally marched by night on account of scarcity
of water.
There is only one river worth calling so, between Amadi and the Nile,
that is River Tafari, though several dry beds of khors were crossed,
which may be considerable streams in rains. River Tafari is said to
run into Nile S. of Shambe.
67.—RUMBEK ACROSS NAAM TO AWODI.
BY CAPTAIN E. H. ARMSTRONG, FEBRUARY, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Rumbek | — | — |
| | |
| 6 | 6 |First 1½ hours E.S.E., same as
| | |Shambe road, then ¾ mile S.E.
| 2 | 8 |through burnt village of Adole,
| | |and along N. of M’Bure Makwoj,
| | |then S.W. through scrubby trees
| | |and low marshy ground to khor with
| | |_pool and two wells_, 1¼ hours
| | |more. From there road S. along E.
| 4 | 12 |of khor, which has bamboo in it,
| | |for 1½ hours; cross khor, and
| | |after ½ hour reach Malit, which is
| | |close to khor, and has wells and
_Malit | 8 | 20 |pools in rains. Malit occupies a
(wells)_ | | |large extent of country, but very
| | |few houses in it. Apparently
| | |different portions of the village
| | |have their own names, such as
| | |Mabei and Mading.
| | |
_Well_ | 2 | 22 |From there road to Iyen, S.E.,
| | |cross khor again, distance 2
| | |miles; plenty of water both in
| | |khor and one well. Iyen joins
| | |villages of Ateru and Damadar,
| | |which extend from it in S.S.E.
| | |direction. The cattle mera of all
| | |these villages is called Tenit,
| | |and much difficulty is experienced
| | |in making enquiries about
| | |district, as any of the above
| | |names may be used for the
| | |district. The Jurs are close to
| | |Malit, on S.W. side. Beyond Mading
| | |are following villages, or parts
| | |of villages, in S. direction,
| | |viz.:—Feniar, M’Bure-atit, Lair-
| | |achetit, Fanagir, Makur, Panicho,
| | |and Rumbel (?). I have not been to
| | |them, but the above is the order
| | |of position from N. to S.
| | |
| 4 | 26 |From Ateru road to River Naam
| | |direction slightly N.E., passing
_River Naam_ | 6 | 32 |through, after 1 hour, villages of
| | |Paniol and Matiang, both burnt to
| | |the ground. Naam River reached
| | |after 3 hours, the forest
| | |approaching within 1½ hours of
| | |river. From there road E., across
| 4 | 36 |valley to forest on E. side. River
| | |here winds very much, and is close
| | |to trees on E. bank. Track across
| | |plain, rough, and in summer is
| | |entirely under water.
| | |
| | |From here southerly road was taken
| | |along edge of forest for ½ hour,
| | |then through forest extending out
| | |W. towards river; road good. After
| 5 | 41 |another ½ hour pass through burnt
| | |village of Awog. Here road turns
_Fort Ayak_ | 4 | 45 |slightly westward on to old Fort
| | |Ayak, another 1½ hours. Fort in
| | |good position, overlooking river,
| | |which then passes quite close
| | |underneath; level of fort about 20
| | |feet above river. Site seems very
| | |good, but natives say a great deal
| | |more rain falls than at Rumbek.
| | |Ditch and parapet still in good
| | |order; fort square shaped, sides
| 8 | 53 |about 300 by 400 yards. Road from
| | |here starts S.E., after ½ hour S.,
| | |over red sandstone, with steep
| | |descent to river, and along edge
| | |of forest S. (river here bends
| | |away to W.) to cattle mera at edge
| | |of forest, which here again juts
| | |out in point and is close to
| | |river; distance from Ayak, 2½
| 3 | 56 |hours. Half an hour further back,
| | |at re-entering angle of forest, is
| | |road, E. and then S.E., to village
| 1 | 57 |of Awao, 1 hour from river valley.
| | |From Billing, in another
| | |direction, S.E. then S., along
| | |edge of forest and close to river,
| | |with steep rocky banks, very
| | |similar to road ½ hour S. of Ayak.
| | |After 1 hour from village is road
| | |to left, to village of Awao, ¼
| | |hour distant. Large village with
| | |cattle and sheep mera at S. end.
| | |(Road S., along river, continues
| | |close to edge of forest for 13
| | |more miles, to khor where cattle
| | |were captured by late Major
| | |Hunter.)
| | |
_Lam_ | 9 | 66 |From Awao road due E., over steep
| | |rocky hill, and onward over high
| 3 | 69 |ground, in places boggy, to
| | |village Lam, 3 hours. Valley S. of
| | |road and of Awao grows much
| | |bamboo. Lam is a small village;
| | |rain-water pools along road in
| | |summer. Village of Awodi 1 hour
| | |further on; large village
| | |extending E. and N. from above
| | |road. At N. end zeriba and tobacco
| | |plantation; about ten deep wells,
_Awodi_ | 3 | 72 |3 miles more.
| | |
| | |From here party was sent out N.E.,
| | |and found so-called River Laik,
| | |then dry; no water found even by
| 5 | 77 |digging, but I fancy the natives
| | |know where to find water. This is
| 6 | 83 |the same watercourse as the M’Buri
| | |of Feniar, on Shambe road; it is
| | |about 5 miles N.E. of Awodi, and 6
| | |miles further E. is village of
| | |Rumbel; no water found there.
| | |Probably the inhabitants during
| | |dry season migrate with their
| | |cattle to River Dok or Lau.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
68.—RUMBEK TO MANGI’S VILLAGE.
BY COL.-SERGEANT BOARDMAN, MARCH, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Rumbek | — | — |Marched from Rumbek on 11th
| | |February, through Runga (Jurs)
_Khor Abeir_ | 7 | 7 |S.W., then W.S.W. to wells, across
| | |Khor Abeir. Pretty spot under high
| | |trees, several large mongoose at
| | |well. Halted ½ mile further on,
| | |country open and park-like.
| | |General direction S.W., country
| | |open forest and waste ground, then
| | |up steep hill into forest. Halted
| | |for ten minutes at well.
| | |
_Sheikh | 11 | 18 |On to Sheikh Kali’s, a neat
Kali’s_ | | |village, 13 houses round a tree,
| | |Gemmeiza el Beit. Bamboo growing
| | |all around. Water obtained from
| | |wells. Road continues S.W. and S.
| | |for one hour, and S.E. for half an
| | |hour, ground sloping S. across
| | |successive belts of bamboo, open
| | |ground, and somewhat open forest;
| | |then S. and S.W. over ridge to
| | |village of Sheikh Gol, Then S.W. 1
| | |mile across low ground. At 8
| | |miles, road to Chums, S.W. Road
| | |continues S. along deleib valley
| | |for about 11 miles—many deleib
| | |palms, open forest, some large
_Khor Gulma_ | 13 | 31 |trees—across two small khors. Past
| | |burnt zeriba, Gol; merchant named
| | |Kayali on river, after 10 miles.
| | |Ground in deleib plain slopes W.
| | |to Khor Gulma. Moved on S. and
| | |S.E., skirting Khor Gulma, then
Sheikh Ding | 1 | 32 |smaller khor on W. of it, and
(Wakil of Gol)| | |halted at Sheikh Ding. Then S.W. 2
| | |miles through thin forest and
| | |village, and on slightly S. to
_Sheikh Ri_ | 5 | 37 |village of Sheikh Ri; halted just
| | |beyond in forest. Water about a
| | |mile N.E. From here marched S.
| | |through forest, villages, and
| | |across three khors; after one hour
Sheikh Marain | 4½ | 41½ |dura of Sheikh Marain (Wakil of
| | |Ri), and his village (from here
| | |village of Moinyeng about 20 miles
| | |N.E.). At first ground sloping to
| | |E., but after village crossed low
| | |ridge.
| | |
| | |Continued S. 1 mile, then W. and
| | |S.W. along low ground for one and
| | |a half hours, then S. and S.E. for
| | |another one and a half hours; road
| | |continues S. for 2½ miles more,
| | |crossing low ground. Halted E. of
| | |_water_. In three places on march
| | |low ground must be marshy in
| | |rains. Continued E. for 2 miles,
| | |then E. and N.E. for 1 mile along
| | |N. of khor, ground sloping from S.
| | |to N. through forest and village,
| | |then E. for 1 mile to dura of
_Sheikh | 13½ | 55 |Sheikh Dogbei; water found on N.
Dogbei_ | | |near road, then S.E. to more dura
| | |and few houses, on through village
| | |S. to wells; halted under tree on
| | |rising ground. Then S.W. for 1
| | |mile along edge of forest, and W.
| | |for 1½ miles, round N. of kopje,
| | |then S. across low ground; here
| | |road continues S, W. and W. for 1½
| | |miles round rocky hills, along
| | |side of forest, and close to (W.
_Sheikh Kolli_| 5 | 60 |of) another khor, then strikes S.,
(deserted | | |across khor to wells, called
village) | | |village of Sheikh Kolli, but
| | |village deserted long ago.
| | |Indifferent water, but near the
| | |surface, and frequented by game.
| | |
| | |Continued S.W. for 1 mile, and 2
| | |miles W. and S.W., over high open
| | |ground at first, then to left
| | |through forest, on S.W. for ½
| | |mile, passing rocky hill, right-
| | |handed, then W. for 1 mile,
| | |passing other rocky hills, left-
| | |handed, which overlook valley to
| | |W., S. and E., the highest is 80
| | |to 100 feet above ridge itself;
| | |high ground N., and on R. slopes
| | |in wooded ridges to W. and sheer
_Village of | 5 | 65 |S. Village of Abui N. and W.,
Sheikh Abui_ | | |raided by Nyam Nyams. Halted at
| | |tobacco plantation. Water in holes
| | |in rocks, plentiful and excellent.
| | |From rocky ridge excellent view to
| | |W., showing successive banks of
| | |trees running S.E. to N.W., then
| | |S. and N.,. representing lines of
| | |khors and rivers, or their
| | |tributaries. Then back to two
| | |tukls of Sheikh Abui, and
| | |continued W. and S.W., passing
| | |through belt of fine trees on to
| | |village (Khartan) and across khor.
| | |From here S. and S.E., passing a
| | |patch of flat rocks through
| | |forest, then S. and S.W., up
| | |rising ground, through open
| | |forest, and S.W. for 1 mile; W.
| | |for 1 mile, and then S.W. again.
| | |Continued W. and S.W.,. over high
| | |ground, at first open forest, then
| | |clump of fine trees, gradually to
| | |S., scrubby forest and much burnt.
_R. Roa_ or | 13 | 78 |Then S. down to dry khor with high
_Gell_ | | |grass, which apparently runs W.
| | |into River Roa or Gell. Water in
| | |pools to E. and W.
| | |
| | |Crossed khor S. and then S.W.
| | |After 2 miles of burnt and open
| | |forest, crossed khor running S.E.
| | |and N.W, and after 4 miles came to
| | |belt of high trees, some of the
| | |large leaf kind, here the ground
| | |becomes low and covered with high
| | |grass on R. Guide took us round N.
| | |side of it, and brought us to
| | |river more than two hours earlier
| | |than was expected. Here we found
| | |there was no road. Guide had taken
| | |wrong road, had to find way back,
| | |S.E. and E., through high grass,
| | |then along path through forest to
| | |S., and then halted for
| | |information. Could get none, went
| | |on without hamla and found spot by
| 5 | 83 |river and sent for hamla.
| | |
| | |Continued S.W. and then S., along
| | |edge of forest; on the left hand
| | |river several times came close,
| | |rocky banks and pretty, plain on
| | |R. varying in breadth, according
| | |to whether spurs of high ground
| | |and forest run out into it, or
| | |whether joined by flat grassy
| | |khors; crossed several small ones
| | |on river bank, and came to a _pool
| | |in khor_; halted for 15 minutes.
| | |Continued across similar ridge of
| | |forest burnt in places, then came
| | |to another big pond in khor;
| | |direction of march still S.
| | |
| | |Moved along E. of pond and found
| | |the khor which runs from E. to W.;
| | |deep channel of water with broken
| | |muddy banks, crossed it a little
| | |higher up by filling in with grass
| | |and branches; mules and all
| | |crossed easily. From there road
| 11 | 94 |slightly W. of S., across similar
| | |ridges, crossing one broad dry
| | |khor, _halted on ridge_ 300 _yards
| | |from river_; crossed Khor-el-Said
| | |and continued across spur of hill
| | |covered with burnt forest for 3
| | |miles; direction S. and slightly
| | |W. of S., then came on khor
| | |running S. and S.E.; turned left
| | |along it and came on bend of
| | |river; rocky bed with cataract,
| | |rocks cut into long channels by
| 5 | 99 |flow of water, banks steep, high
| | |grass on far side. Had to unload
| | |animals and pass over everything
| | |by hand, river nearly bridged by
| | |rocks, but very uneven. Marched on
| | |again, going W., through high
| | |grass till meeting track after ½
| | |mile, then S. along side of ridge
| | |with spurs running down to river,
| | |sometimes small open plain near
| | |river. After another mile passed
| | |over old zeriba of Abu Samat (1½
| | |miles after crossing river). On in
| | |same direction, and struck river
| 5 | 104 |again near khor, pretty spot; then
| | |on across open low ground to
| | |another spur on which we halted.
| | |River runs S.E. from here.
| | |Continued S.W.W. into dense
| | |forest, partly burnt, no track;
| | |crossed spurs of two ridges with
| | |small sandy khors in valleys.
| | |
| | |Then marched S.W. along a ridge
| | |for one hour and a quarter; ground
| | |here slopes down E., with thick
| | |belt of tress on a hill about 3
| | |miles E., then over deep sandy
| | |khor up rocky hill. Continued S.
| | |up steep hill, view all round;
| | |high ridges covered with large
| | |trees; after 1 mile went down to
| | |valley, crossed deep rocky khor,
| | |little water in pool. Khor going
| | |W. to N.E. Continuing S., crossed
| | |valley and camped on high
| 8½ | 112½ |tableland; _water in khor below_.
| | |
| | |Marched again S., and after
| | |quarter of an hour reached a deep
| | |narrow khor; halted and cut away
| | |banks to cross animals; water in
| | |pool to E. (left). Continued S.,
| | |crossed wide grassy khor after 1
| | |mile going W. to E., then one hour
| | |over high rocky ground with tall
| | |grass; thin forest; crossed small
| | |khor (W. to E.), then low ground
| | |with tall grass and thick shrubs.
| | |Striking old track of Nyam Nyams,
| | |very indistinct, marched S. of W.
| | |for 1 mile over rising ground and
| | |through thick forest, then S.W.,
| | |passing end of deep gorge which
| | |runs E.; lost track and marched
| | |S.W. over rocky ridge, crossed two
| | |small sandy khors about 50 yards
| | |apart, running parallel S.W. to
| | |N.E. Continued S.W.S., crossed
| | |gorge after 1 mile, then fairly
| | |level ground, rocky. Again struck
| | |track and followed it; ground
| | |drops to the E. Continued S.W.,
| | |and after half hour crossed a wide
| | |khor, tall grass, running W. to E.
| | |Two mountains, Angaliri, in Bongo
| | |country, can be seen about 40
| | |miles E. of here.
| | |
| | |Continued S.W. along rocky ridge,
| | |went down to Khor Mugei, water
| | |running N.E. to S.W. This khor is
| | |about 12 yards wide with tall
| | |grassy plain each side, and
| | |apparently drains hills over which
| | |I passed during the day and runs
| | |into River Leizi. Thick forest
Mount Yara, | 16½ | 129 |nearly the whole way. Mount Yara,
_Khor Mugei_ | | |a large hump-shaped mountain,
| | |covered with trees, about 2 miles
| | |across khor S.W.W. Halted here for
| | |the night. Marched in the morning
| | |S., along E. side of khor, for
| | |half hour through tall grass and
| | |few bushes, then S.S.E. for half
| | |hour, ridges to left (E.). After 4
| | |miles turned W. of S. over ridge,
| | |thickly covered with large trees,
| | |undergrowth burnt, 5½ miles; then
| | |down to valley, very open ground
| | |covered with burnt grass and large
| | |ant hills, with dry khor in
| | |centre; valley about 1½ miles
| | |wide, several large trees. Mts.
| | |Angaliri can be seen from here
| | |N.E. Carriers say they are near
| | |(60 miles N.E. of) Hmadi.
| | |Continuing S. struck path going
| | |S.W., followed it along valley,
| | |crossed khor, dry, and marching
_River Leizi, | 11 | 140 |through tall grass came to River
Sheikh Sango_ | | |Leizi, narrow, high banks,
| | |overhung by trees, dry at ford;
| | |crossed and entered village of
| | |Sheikh Sango (slaves of Nyam
| | |Nyams), wakil of Sheikh Agadamba,
| | |who is under Sultan Mangi. Here
| | |natives bolted; village stands on
| | |rise and fairly open ground. Tribe
| | |Homr from Babikr.
| | |
| | |Marched again and crossed khor,
| | |then over slight rise; burnt
| | |forest of young trees. Met party
_Sheikh | 10½ | 150½ |from Sheikh Agadamba; crossed khor
Agadamba_ | | |running W. to E., little water,
| | |ground drops to E., large ridge in
| | |distance S. of E., then over
| | |slight rise, small forest, and
| | |crossed small khor (W. to E.);
| | |then over spur of hill and came to
| | |wells, open ground with young lulu
| | |trees. Continued S.S.W. over steep
| | |hill covered with thick forest
| | |into valley, fairly open; crossed
| | |khor, little water, over small
| | |rise, another small khor (W. to
| | |E.), then through dense forest S.,
| | |crossing rocky khor and, turning
| | |E., entered village of Sheikh
| | |Agadamba, tribe Geate, from near
| | |Yambio, slaves of Mangi (son of
| | |Yambio); passed through village
| | |and camped on Khor Reishinda
| | |beyond, 10½ miles, running S.W. to
| | |N.E. into River Leizi (natives
| | |inform me that River Leizi runs
| | |into River Merridi (Gell or Roa.))
| | |Sheikh Bangi, son of Mangi, from
| | |Kawa village Reisha, two days S.E.
| | |from here, tribe Abakas, came in
| | |here and does not seem very
| | |willing to give information.
| | |Continued W. through village,
| | |houses scattered in the thick of
| | |forest, and one house cannot be
| | |seen from another.
| | |
| | |Turning S. crossed Khor Reishinda
| | |(S.W. to N.E.), then over rise,
| | |young forest, dense undergrowth,
| | |slopes W. towards khor; ridges in
| | |distance (W.). Forest thickens as
| | |we advance, several small open
| | |spaces. Continuing S.W., passed
| | |old village of Sheikh Agadamba,
| | |M’bagi; met party sent from Mangi;
| | |reached Khor M’bagi, water running
| | |from W. and bends S.E. Mount
| | |M’bagi 3 miles E. from here, cone-
| | |shaped and rocky mountain, few
| | |trees, about 100-150 feet above
| | |ridge. Continuing S., passed foot
| | |W. of Mt. Umbumbamba, oval-shaped
| | |and few large trees on crest,
| | |about 150 feet high; then over
| | |ridge W. of S. past dura fields,
| | |crossed rocky (granite) ridge W.
| | |of E. named Parkpe, and halted on
_B’bonga Khor | 11 | 161½ |outskirts of village B’bonga near
Zaza_ | | |Khor Zaza, rocky khor running N.E.
| | |to S.W. into River Ibba, little
| | |water in rocky pools; inhabitants
| | |of village recently moved E.;
| | |ridges of trees to E. and W.
| | |
| | |Continued S. and crossed Khor
| | |Zaza, on to ridge, thick forest
| | |continuing W. of S.; after half
| | |hour ground slopes E. to khor
| | |about 200 yards wide, thick weeds.
| | |Path runs parallel with khor, high
| | |ridges the far side(E.). Continued
| | |S.W. over high rocky ridge down to
| | |bend of River Ibba, 40 yards wide
| | |here, sandy bottom, winding in
_River Ibba_ | 4 | 165½ |S.S.W. direction.
| | |
| | |Marched S.W. over ridge and came
| | |upon river again, after crossing
| | |open ground in valley. River here
| | |bends N.W.W., banks very steep,
| | |about 3 feet deep, and 12 yards
| | |wide; a swing bridge crosses river
| | |here from N. bank to a tree on S.
| | |bank. Unloaded and cut away banks
| | |to cross, as bridge does not
| | |appear very secure. Crossed and
| | |camped on S. side in hollow open
| | |plain, with cliffs about 40 feet
| | |high running parallel with and
| | |about 300 yards from river. Tall
| | |grass which I burnt before
| | |camping. Climbed cliff and
| | |obtained following view:—_i.e._,
| | |Mts. M’bagi and Umbumbamba stand
| | |out very clearly N.E., with ridges
| | |of trees running W. to E. and N.
| | |to S. River winds towards N.W.,
| | |with grassy plain on either bank,
| | |skirted on N. bank by forest, S.
| | |bank by cliff and forest. View
| | |S.E. obstructed by trees.
| | |
| | |Marched on E. along foot of cliff
| | |for 1 mile, then unloaded and
| | |climbed cliffs. Continued S.W.
| | |over ridge, young forest; after 15
| | |minutes an old deserted village of
| | |Sheikh Agadamba. Path to Yango
| | |(E.) from here; for half an hour
| | |through village, then down to Khor
| | |Bendawari, very marshy, about 200
| | |yards wide, tall weeds; then along
| | |edge of khor S.S.W. for half hour,
| | |ground rising on far side of khor
| | |(E.). Khor then bends S.W., and
| | |path turns S. across it and enters
| | |forest of large trees, lulu type,
| | |undergrowth burnt; marched through
| | |forest S.W., several open spaces;
| | |then through thin forest and down
| | |to W. over fairly open ground, and
_Khor | 7½ | 173 |crossed Khor Mungongo and camped
Mungongo, | | |on far side at 8.45 a.m. near
Sheikh Tum_ | | |village of Sheikh Tum, Wakil of
| | |Mangi tribe Agbea. Went on alone
| | |to village named after Sheikh,
| | |found very little water in well,
| | |houses scattered and very thickly
| | |populated, so decided to camp at
| | |khor and await messenger. Sheikh
| | |Zumio, son of Mangi, village
| | |Mazura between Khors Korsi and
| | |Mukongo, near village (deserted)
| | |Penio—tribes Baminda and
| | |Abunangi—came in; his district
| | |runs from River Ibba, below Penio,
| | |and W. along Benza’s district;
| | |seems very intelligent, and says
| | |he is anxious to be friendly to
| | |government.
| | |
| | |Marched S.W. up slope of hill,
| | |then E. round E. side of Mts.
| | |Bandilia, high rocky mountains
| | |covered with short grass, then
| | |down W. of S. and crossed Khor
| | |Wure Mangonga; this khor flows
| | |into Khor Yur; fairly open ground
| | |at first through village, then
| | |young burnt forest. Continuing
| | |S.W. crossed Khor Tozo, open
| | |ground, marshy, then over ridge,
| | |bushy country; ground slopes E. to
| | |plain, with thick belt of trees on
| | |ridge in distance (N. to S.).
| | |
| | |Going S. over rising ground,
| | |passed Khor Mapeko with village
| | |Byuvo, Headman named Zaniwe, on N.
| | |bank. Continuing S. over rise,
| | |crossed Khor Magone, then thin
| | |trees for ten minutes, then
_Village | 8 | 181 |through telibun fields to village
Umbeyur_ | | |of Umbeyur, Headman Bgumbo. A good
| | |many banana plants here, and
| | |several patches of date palms _en
| | |route_. Camped in village. Tribes
| | |Bagmonda and Abondu, slaves of
| | |Mangi.
| | |
| | |Marched on S. through village,
| | |over rising ground fairly open,
| | |drops E. and rises to forest.
| | |After half hour crossed small Khor
| | |Wureyim. N. of this khor all Nyam
| | |Nyams tribes are called Abakas,
| | |also to E. and S.E. of here.
| | |Continuing S.S.W., passed deserted
| | |village of Abubunda.
| | |
| | |Turning S., path runs parallel
| | |with Khor Yur—tribes S. of Khor
| | |Yur Abowis—which bends sharply to
| | |W. Crossed and continued S. over
| | |rise, bushy, passed old deserted
| | |village of Badigo. Then very
| | |marshy ground, crossing Khor
| | |Umbondingani, continues marshy for
| | |some distance E., with large pools
| | |of water. Going S. over marsh,
| | |crossed Khor Mungani, ground then
| | |rises, valley to W., far bank
Harimat of | 7 | 188 |dotted with houses; harimat of
Mangi | | |Mangi. Then passing few houses,
| | |then E., S.E., and S. through thin
| | |forest, houses on either side.
| | |Ground drops W. Bananas plentiful
| | |_en route_. Continuing S.S.E. over
| | |rise, through thin forest down
| | |steep incline; crossed Khor
| | |Mabondi, dry at present, but about
| | |10 feet deep during rains, and 100
| | |yards wide, it ends about 1½ miles
| | |to E.; then up incline on far
| | |side; passed few tukls, through
| | |thin forest, young trees. Progress
| | |slow, having to cut road for
| | |transport, down slope and crossed
| | |Khor Mufeu, splendid large pool of
| | |water, excellent quality, houses
| | |close by. Then S. for five minutes
| | |and crossed bend of Khor Mufeu,
| | |over rise through thick forest,
| | |young trees; then S.E., S., and
| | |S.W., through thick belt of trees,
| | |so thick that sun did not
| | |penetrate, and was in semi
_Khor | 5 | 193 |darkness, down to Khor Masagissa
Masagissa_ | | |(runs N.W. to Mufeu), and halted
| | |near pool of water. Very open
| | |ground near khor to E. and W. Cut
| | |path through belt of trees for
| | |hamla, &c. Trees of the lulu type
| | |the whole way. Crossed khor, very
| | |marshy ground for ½ mile beyond,
| | |then S.W. over rise, ground drops
| | |E., with thick forest in distance
| | |on high ground; passed old village
| | |of Abiama, Sheikh Leguar, this has
| | |been a large compact village, some
| | |time deserted; banana, manyok,
| | |cloth, and cotton plants growing
| | |in wild confusion.
| | |
| | |Khor Makatapu runs parallel with
| | |and to E. of path bending W., path
| | |crossing it near batch of tukls of
| | |Mangi.
| | |
| | |Continuing S.S.W. through thin
| | |forest, trees close on path; cut
| | |way for hamla, reach more tukls
_Mangi’s | 4 | 197 |(deserted); camped beyond at pools
Village_ | | |of water, on open ground. Progress
| | |slow owing to thickness of trees
| | |on path. A large number of date
| | |palms in Khor Makatapu, and acacia
| | |all along banks.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
[Footnote 27: This does not apply now (1904).]
CHAPTER VIII.
(KORDOFAN).
* * * * *
69.—SHEIKH SADIK TO HOMRA.
There is a good broad track the whole way. Good grazing, but
indifferent shade.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Sheikh Sadik_| — | — |A small and very dirty village.
| | |One well 120 feet deep. Shade in
| | |khor to the south. Tomb visable at
| | |a distance. Good mosque. People
| | |own many goats. Dura sometimes
| | |available. Leaving the village the
| | |track crosses a khor and leads
| | |over gravel soil across several
| | |shallow khors. The country is
| | |fairly open, much samr bush.
| | |Telegraph line is on the west.
| | |
Wadi Afu | 8 | 8 |Is reached soon after crossing the
| | |telegraph line. Much cultivation
| | |on the surrounding rising ground.
| | |The gravel is now much mixed with
| | |clay which makes the going bad
| | |during rain.
| | |
Goz El Leia | 15½ | 23½ |Sand commences and continues to
| | |Shageig. The marakh bush first
| | |appears.
| | |
_Bir Khanga_ | 6 | 29½ |Now dry. There is also a large
| | |fula. Many others exist in the
| | |neighbourhood. Heavy going in
| | |places (1903).
| | |
_Shageig_ | 13½ | 43 |Fula and many wells. Water
| | |practically unlimited. Small
| | |village. Fair shade but grazing
| | |bad in hot weather. The road now
| | |leads to the north end of J. Tius.
| | |There is little shade, but fair
| | |grazing.
| | |
J. Tius | 18 | 61 |About 300 feet high above plain.
| | |The road crosses the sand hill
| | |that has collected on the north
| | |side. The road now passes one or
| | |two fulas that only contain water
| | |in the rains.
| | |
_El Homra_ | 16 | 77 |Good rest house. Small Gowama
| | |village. Two good wells 125 feet
| | |deep. Fair shade near well.
| | |Moderate grazing, gets indifferent
| | |towards end of hot weather owing
| | |to the large number of convoys
| | |that pass through.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
70.—EL DUEIM TO HOMRA.
This is portion of the main route from El Dueim to El Obeid. There
is a well defined track throughout.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Dueim | — | — |Leaving the town in a westerly
| | |direction, the track is at first
| | |difficult to pick up. Black soil,
| | |which during the rains becomes
| | |very swampy. Bush never bad, but
| | |many khors, which at times hold a
| | |great deal of water, have to be
| | |crossed.
| | |
_Id El Ud_ | 11½ | 11½ |Small Kurtan village, many wells,
| | |water practically unlimited. Fair
| | |shade near wells, but during the
| | |rains ground becomes very swampy
| | |and mosquitoes are very bad.
| | |
| | |Track continues over black soil at
| | |first. Then sand gradually
| | |increases and the bush disappears.
| | |After 4 miles no shade. Nothing
| | |but marakh bush. Slightly
| | |undulating country.
| | |
30th mile | 30 | 41½ |Telegraph line is struck, and soon
| | |after J. Helba is seen ahead.
| | |
_Helba_ | 8 | 49½ |Two wells 90 feet deep; good
| | |supply of water. Small Shuweihat
| | |village. Little shade near wells,
| | |but plenty ½ mile on. The road is
| | |on the south side of the telegraph
| | |line. There is a good deal of
| | |bush, sayal, heglig, etc.
| | |
_Homra_ | 13 | 62½ |_See_ Route No. 69.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
71.—HOMRA TO EL OBEID _viâ_ BARA.
(_Corrected to January_, 1904.)
Throughout this route there is plenty of grazing and firewood. Water
is, however, apt to give out at Homra and Shegeila if more than 300
camels are watered in one day as may happen at times, but the wells
quickly refill. Wide track the whole way.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Homra_ | — | — |Small Gowama village. Two good
| | |wells 125 feet deep. Good rest
| | |house, and fair shade near. Little
| | |dura for sale as a rule. Good
| | |track S. of telegraph line. Good
| | |shade for first 13 miles, then
| | |nothing but marakh bush, good
| | |grazing.
| | |
_Sakra_ | 21½ | 21½ |Small village S. of road. Well 100
| | |feet deep on N. side of telegraph
| | |line. Water for 100 men. Rest
| | |house; no shade.
| | |
_Shatib_ | 12½ | 34 |Small village; one well; no shade.
| | |
Old Well | 5½ | 39½ |In middle of track. Much
| | |cultivation near belonging to
| | |Gafala; a Maganin village visible
| | |1½ miles S.
| | |
_Shegeila_ | 6 | 45½ |Large Gowama village; two good
| | |wells 140 feet deep. Can water 200
| | |camels. Rest house. From here
| | |there are two roads to Baharia
| | |_viâ_ Wad Abu Suleiman and _viâ_
| | |Zereiga. The latter is the better.
| | |
| | | _Viâ_ ZEREIGA.
| | |
| | |Track follows telegraph line. Very
| | |little shade.
| | |
_Zereiga_ | 5 | 50½ |Two wells 125 feet deep. Small
| | |village; little shade, and bad
| | |grazing near wells.
| | |
| | |Country open; little shade.
| | |
_Baharia_ | 13½ | 64 |Two wells 80 feet deep. Rest
| | |house. Large Gowama village. Fair
| | |shade near village. Water very
| | |plentiful.
| | |
| | | _Viâ_ WAD ABU SULEIMAN.
| | |
| | |Road goes nearly S. at first; much
| | |gum and sayal bush, thick in
| | |places.
| | |
_Wad Abu | 9 | 54½ |Small village; one well 90 feet
Suleiman_ | | |deep. There is another village
| | |with well a mile to the S. on the
| | |Um Semeima-Um Dam road.
| | |
_Um Semeima_ | 2½ | 57 |Two small villages; each has a
| | |well. Road from Um Dam comes in
| | |here. Track leads due W.; marakh
| | |bush; no shade.
| | |
_Baharia_ | 6½ | 63½ |_See_ above.
| | |
| | |
| | |The country is now quite open.
| | |Marakh bush; no shade.
| | |
_Shereim_ | 17 | 81 |A small Gowama village on the N.
| | |side of the road. One well. A mile
| | |before reaching it gum, sayal and
| | |haraz bush appear. Road winds a
| | |good deal, and bush is thicker to
| | |within 1 mile of Bara when
| | |cultivation commences.
| | |
_Bara_ | 5 | 86 |Large village with mosque and
| | |small suk. Good rest house. Wells
| | |from 6 to 20 feet deep, water
| | |practically unlimited. Good
| | |grazing near.
| | |
| | |Leaving the S. end of the town
| | |there is a wide track E. of the
| | |telegraph line. Heavy going to 5
| | |miles beyond Um Sot.
| | |
_Daragai Well_| 9 | 95 |One well on road. Fair shade near,
| | |but ground much soiled by camels
| | |and cattle.
| | |
_Um Sot_ | 3 | 98 |One well on road 85 feet deep;
| | |good supply of water. Good shade
| | |under large haraz trees near
| | |village 3 miles S.E. Next 5 miles
| | |heavy going, then road improves.
| | |
Fula Faragalla| 12½ | 110½ |One hundred yards in diameter,
| | |generally dry by end of October.
| | |Good shade and grazing near. J.
| | |Kurbag is seen in front. Road
| | |passes to W. of jebel.
| | |
Fula Kurbag | 9 | 119½ |S.W. of jebel; 100 by 80 yards,
| | |usually dry by mid-October. Good
| | |shade.
| | |
| | |From here to El Obeid there is no
| | |shade. The track passes through
| | |dukhn cultivation. Good going.
| | |
El Obeid | 5 | 124½ |Main track goes to the town. For
| | |the Mudiria follow the telegraph
| | |line when struck. At night be
| | |careful to avoid the wire stays to
| | |the poles.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
72.—EL DUEIM TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ HASHABA.
BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, SCOT. RIFLES (MARCH, 1900), AND MR. R. E. MORE
(1903).
This is the shortest route between the river and El Obeid. There is
good grazing throughout, though shade is sometimes wanting. After
Hashaba, there are two routes to Um Sedeira, one _viâ_ Um Dam,
the other _viâ_ Abu Areish. The former is the better, as there is
plenty of water at Um Dam.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Dueim | — | — |Leaving the town in a westerly
| | |direction the track goes over
| | |black soil which, during the
| | |rains, forms a serious obstacle to
| | |transport. Bush never bad, but
| | |several khors have to be crossed,
| | |which, at times, hold a good deal
| | |of water.
| | |
_Id El Ud_ | 11½ | 11½ |Small Kurtan village; many wells,
| | |water practically unlimited. The
| | |Agaba is now entered. Track hard
| | |to pick up at first. During the
| | |rains it is often necessary to go
| | |some way to the N., as the ground
| | |W. of wells is liable to floods.
| | |Mosquitoes are then very bad. No
| | |shade.
| | |
J. Shwei (Rest| 24 | 35½ |Rest house. Low isolated hill S.
house) | | |of track. Country becomes more
| | |undulating and bush increases.
| | |Good grazing, but no shade. Well
| | |now being dug, but water not yet
| | |reached at 180 feet (September,
| | |1904).
| | |
_Hashaba El | 27 | 62½ |Maganin village. Three wells 140
Murad_ (Rest | | |feet deep. Rest house. Dôm palms
house) | | |near village form good land mark.
| | |Take the western road; after
| | |leaving the cultivation little but
| | |marakh bush is seen. Good grazing.
| | |
Shegela | 8½ | 71 |A small Maganin village. No well;
| | |water from Hashaba. Good track;
| | |slightly undulating country.
| | |Hashab trees commence and continue
| | |to within a few miles of Um Dam.
| | |Direction nearly due W.
| | |
_Um Dam_ (Rest| 23 | 94 |Head Quarters of Khursi District.
house) | | |Rest house and 3 good wells 130
| | |feet deep. Much cultivation all
| | |round and several small villages
| | |near. Leaving in a south-westerly
| | |direction, good track; gum and
| | |sayal bush. Gowama.
| | |
_Um Basira_ | 3 | 97 |Small village off road to N.;
| | |often called Fiki Taha; well. Good
| | |track; gum and sial bush, thick in
| | |places.
| | |
_Wad Kamuri_ | 5½ | 102½ |Two villages. One good well.
| | |Plenty of grazing and shade off
| | |road to S.
| | |
Goz El Hagiz | 3 | 105½ |A low sandy ridge running nearly
| | |N. and S. Country now becomes more
| | |undulating, and continues so to
| | |within 10 miles of El Obeid.
| | |
_Um Sedeira_ | 3½ | 109 |Three villages, with one good well
(Rest house) | | |80 feet deep; can water 30 camels.
| | |Good shade and grazing.
| | |
_Adara_ | 5 | 114 |One well 80 feet deep; good water.
| | |Good track, but heavy going.
| | |
Um Heim | 8½ | 122½ |One well 100 feet deep; can water
| | |15 camels. Um Beida, 6 miles S.E.,
| | |has a similar well.
| | |
_Um Busha_ | 3 | 125½ |Two wells 120 feet deep. Good
(Rest house) | | |shade and grazing near wells. Many
| | |haraz trees. Road now bears S. W.
| | |J. Gleit and J. Kurbag are left to
| | |the N. Well marked track all the
| | |way. Some bush, but cultivation
| | |for last 5 miles.
| | |
El Obeid | 33 | 158½ |
The following is an alternative route. There is, however, less water,
and the road is much less frequented.
_Hashaba El | — | 62½ |Leaving in a S.W. direction there
Murad_ | | |is little bush at first. Good
| | |track.
| | |
_Bagera_ | 25 | 77½ |Three small Gowama villages. One
| | |bad well 140 feet deep, not to be
| | |depended on. Good track; sayal
| | |bush.
| | |
_Abu Areish_ | 16 | 93½ |Small village. One well 120 feet
| | |deep. Can water 15 camels with
| | |difficulty. The road from Taiara
| | |to Um Dam crosses here. Good track
| | |over red sandy soil.
| | |
Goz El Hagiz | 4 | 97½ |Low sandy hill.
| | |
_Um Shidera_ | 3½ | 101 |As above.
| | |
El Obeid | 49½ | 150½ |As above.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
73.—GEDID TO EL DUEIM, _viâ_ UM DEISIS.
BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, THE SCOTTISH RIFLES, FEBRUARY, 1901, AND
COLONEL THE HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., DECEMBER, 1901.
The whole of this road is over black cotton soil, and is occasionally
impassable during the rains, at which time tracks east and west leading
from one patch of cultivation to another along the red sandy ridges
are more generally used. There is practically no bush near the road
and very little shade.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Gedid Wells_ | — | — |The road goes almost due N. from
| | |the wells. A few small villages
| | |are seen west of the road,
| | |inhabited only during the rains.
| | |
_Selia_ | 25 | 25 |A Gimma village on a hill,
| | |belonging to Sheikh Nur Hussein,
| | |and four other Ahamda villages.
| | |Thirty wells, 8 feet deep, 1½
| | |miles N.E. Good water, but they
| | |soon run dry. There are roads from
| | |here to Fachi Shoya and J. Kon.
| | |
_Um Deisis_ | 7 | 32 |About 40 wells, 30 feet deep.
| | |Plenty of water, This is a Kurtan
| | |village. The gum gardens and
| | |cultivation belong to them, but
| | |the Beni Jerar water their cattle
| | |here, and their camping places are
| | |frequently seen.
| | |
_Abu Sela_ | 18 | 50 |A Shanabla village situated on a
| | |hill. The country all round is
| | |very open, and firewood scarce.
| | |The wells (not seen) are 2½ miles
| | |S.E. of the village. The country
| | |now becomes more desert-like, but
| | |during the rains all the ridges
| | |are cultivated. A few miles before
| | |reaching Um Bueira many villages
| | |are seen to the east of the road.
| | |These belong to Um Bueira.
| | |
_Um Bueira_ | 11 | 61 |Some 20 very good wells, 28 to 30
| | |feet deep. The villages and
| | |cultivation to the E. of the road
| | |belong to the Mesellemia, to the
| | |W. of the road chiefly to the
| | |Shanabla. There is no bush about,
| | |and at this time of year (Feb.)
| | |very little grass. Hundreds of
| | |sheep and goats water daily.
| | |
_Shat_ | 2½ | 63½ |A large place with suk and many
| | |merchants. The wells are numerous;
| | |about 30 feet deep, and give a
| | |practically unlimited amount of
| | |water. No shade and little grass
| | |near wells, as it is eaten down by
| | |the cattle, sheep, and goats, who
| | |come to water. Many villages
| | |about, Mesellemia and Shanabla,
| | |and in the rains much cultivation.
| | |In rains water stands, and
| | |mosquitoes are bad.
| | |
| | |Three miles on the bush commences,
| | |but is never very dense and
| | |generally grows in patches.
| | |
Um Sunta | 10 | 73½ |A small pool.
| | |
| | |The bush now consists of kittr,
| | |heglig, and talh, but is never an
| | |obstacle to transport.
| | |
| | |The ground is a good deal cracked
| | |and is at intervals impassable in
| | |the rains.
| | |
El Dueim | 8 | 81½ |For description, _see_ Part I, p.
| | |66.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
74.—SHAT WELLS TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ J. KON.[28]
AS FAR AS ZEREIGA, BY COLONEL THE HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., DECEMBER,
1901; REMAINDER BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, THE SCOTTISH RIFLES, MARCH, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Shat Wells_ | — | — |The road bears nearly S.W., well
| | |marked and nearly straight,
| | |crossing several sandy ridges.
| | |Easy ascents and descents. The
| | |only “Id” passed is Abu Shareima,
| | |where there is a natural pool of
| | |little depth and quite dry. About
| | |1 mile to the N. is a new Shanabla
| | |village.
| | |
Goz Um Sibila | 5½ | 5½ |Goz Um Sibila is crossed. It does
| | |not seem more remarkable than the
| | |other ridges, but the name is well
| | |known.
| | |
_Zereiga | 5½ | 11 |Many wells, 15 to 20 feet deep,
Wells_ | | |good water. J. Bachi just visible
| | |in the evening from highest mound
| | |near wells. Water supply
| | |diminishes in summer. Water stands
| | |here after heavy rain, when
| | |mosquitoes are very bad.
| | |
| | |The country becomes slightly
| | |undulating, good well-marked
| | |track, red sand, a few hashab
| | |trees about, but country generally
| | |open; little shade.
| | |
Amara | 28 | 39 |Remains of about 30 old wells.
| | |Formerly a Baza village.
| | |
Um Ged | ½ | 39½ |Ditto; but remains of more wells.
| | |This is a well-known halting place
| | |for convoys from Ageila, as there
| | |is a little shade.
| | |
Road divides | 13½ | 53 |The southern track goes to Ageila,
| | |said to be “one day”; the other
| | |turns due W., crossing the sandy
| | |ridge that has collected N. of J.
| | |Kon. There is a good deal of bush
| | |about.
| | |
_J. Kon_ | 1½ | 54½ |A rocky ridge running nearly N.
| | |and S., ¾ mile long, and rising
| | |about 300 feet above the plain. A
| | |little water on the mountain, and
| | |many old wells on the W. side near
| | |the track. These are said to have
| | |formerly given plenty of water.
| | |
Hella Kon | 1 | 55½ |A small Gowama village. Water from
| | |J. Kon.
| | |
Alleiga | 3½ | 59 |A small Baza village. No well;
| | |water from Bint Joda.
| | |
Id Adam | 3 | 62 |Remains of eight old wells; said
| | |to have been 80 feet deep.
| | |
_Bint Joda | 3 | 65 |Twenty wells, 85 feet deep, not
Wells_ | | |much water in them. Five more
| | |being opened. There was formerly
| | |much cultivation about.
| | |
| | |The village is ¾ mile to the E.
| | |People are Baza and Gowama, and
| | |own many gum gardens.
| | |
| | |The country continues slightly
| | |undulating, covered with hashab
| | |bush, but the latter is never very
| | |thick near the road.
| | |
Um Bilbil | 1 | 66 |Old wells. Gowama. Formerly much
| | |cultivation.
| | |
Gogran | 1 | 67 |Ditto.
| | |
Elton | 3½ | 70½ |Ditto.
| | |
Fula Masuda | 1 | 71½ |Thirty yards in diameter, 2 feet
| | |deep, now dry.
| | |
Rabeisab Wells| 1 | 72½ |Now fallen in.
| | |
Rabeisab | 2¾ | 75¼ |Gowama village of thirty tukls,
| | |water from Wad Kasim.
| | |
_Wad Kasim_ | 2½ | 77¾ |Twelve wells open, 70 feet deep.
| | |Little water; it took an hour to
| | |fill 12 zigs, working four wells
| | |at the time. The wells and
| | |cultivation belong to the Messadab
| | |tribe.
| | |
Um Butran | 1¾ | 79½ |Deserted Gowama village.
| | |
Wad Delu | 3¼ | 82¾ |Old wells. Gowama. Much
| | |cultivation formerly.
| | |
Group of old | 3½ | 86¼ |About thirty. Guide did not know
wells | | |their name.
| | |
_Sayala_ | 7½ | 93¾ |Very small Gowama village. Sheikh
| | |Ahmed Omar (lives at Taiara). Two
| | |very bad wells. Signs of former
| | |cultivation now become less, and
| | |the hashab trees increase, until
| | |near Taiara the bush is in places
| | |thick enough to interfere with
| | |traffic.
| | |
_Taiara_ | 24½ | 118¼ |A large village, with good wells
| | |and market. Head quarters of a
| | |District. Many merchants, who buy
| | |gum with grain and cotton stuffs.
| | |It was once a large place, but in
| | |January, 1900, had not more than
| | |ten tukls. It is however growing
| | |very rapidly. Sheikh Ahmed Omar,
| | |Gowama Homran, and Sheikh Mohammed
| | |El Mahir, Gowama Gemeiia, are the
| | |two principal sheikhs.
| | |
| | |For the next 18 miles the track,
| | |which is well defined, crosses a
| | |series of ridges of red sand.
| | |These run from N. to. S., and,
| | |though never very steep, delay
| | |trotting camels and disturb the
| | |loads of transport animals. They
| | |are Goz Taiara, immediately W. of
| | |the town, Goz Um Ageiga, Goz Benit
| | |Ranim, Goz Multut, Goz Amarik
| | |Sinein.
| | |
Amarik | 6 | 124¼ |Village on side of last named
| | |hill. Next comes Goz Amarik El
| | |Fungara and then Goz Bartai.
| | |
Bartai | 3¼ | 127½ |A small village on the W. of the
| | |last-named hill.
| | |
| | |Goz Abd El Azim, Goz Gaabr.
| | |
Fula Gaabr | 3 | 130½ |There are two natural ponds, one
| | |to the N. and one to the S. of the
| | |road. They are usually dry by
| | |November. Goz Boli, at the foot of
| | |which is a pool called Um Butab;
| | |Goz Um Hemeira, at the foot of
| | |which is a small pond of the same
| | |name. Goz Fiki Gelalat El Din, a
| | |mile beyond which is a pool about
| | |35 yards in diameter called Fula
| | |Magbus; dry in October.
| | |
_Gafil_ | 4½ | 135 |A small village on the east side
| | |of the Goz El Hagiz El Ashgar,
| | |which forms the western boundary
| | |of the Gowama country. Water from
| | |a bad well, and from Fula Magbus.
| | |
| | |The track now enters more level
| | |country, but khors are crossed in
| | |many places, and the going is very
| | |bad in the rains.
| | |
J. Kao | 4 | 139 |Is left to the N. of the road. The
| | |hashab tree becomes rare, but in
| | |places the bush is dense though
| | |the actual track is clear enough.
| | |A few tebeldis.
| | |
J. Deigo | 9 | 148 |On the north of the track. There
| | |are two fulas, one S. and one W.
| | |Both dry up by November as a rule.
| | |
Deigo | 1¾ | 149¾ |A small village. Water from the
| | |above fulas and from El Obeid. The
| | |road from El Rahad comes in here.
| | |
El Obeid | 6½ | 156¼ |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
75.—SHAWAL TO GEDID _viâ_ FACHI SHOYA AND EL ALOB, THENCE _viâ_
DAR EL AHAMDA TO TAGALE.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, THE DURHAM L.I., 1901, FROM PERSONAL
OBSERVATION AS FAR AS DAR EL AHAMDA, REMAINDER FROM NATIVE SOURCES
(FEBRUARY, 1901).
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Shawal | — | — |Is on the right bank, and nearly
| | |directly opposite to H. Sheikh
| | |Bordein, a small Sudanese wood-
| | |cutting settlement (1901) on left
| | |bank. From the latter a good track
| | |along left bank, through thick
| | |bush for first mile or two, leads
_Fachi Shoya_ | 12 | 12 |to Fachi Shoya, which is a
| | |flourishing village and the
| | |residence of Sheikh Gubara, head
| | |Sheikh of the Shankhab tribe.
| | |There are also some Greeks here,
| | |agents of Khartoum merchants, for
| | |the purchase of gum.
| | |
| | |(From here there is an alternative
| | |and rather shorter route to Gedid
| | |_viâ_ Bellali 17 miles, Abu Aadel
| | |21½ miles, and Menauel 29 miles).
| | |
| | |The track still continues within a
| | |mile or less of the river, which
| | |is accessible almost anywhere.
| | |There are many Arab encampments
| | |along the river, rather more than
| | |a mile inland.
| | |
_El Hasai_ | 4 | 16 |Shankhab, dry weather village on
| | |river bank. El Alob, a long sandy
_El Alob_ | 5½ | 21½ |“Goz” or hill is passed about half
| | |a mile to the E., and a little
| | |further on the villages of the
| | |same name are reached. The route
| | |to Gedid now leads W.S.W., and
| | |immediately after passing the rain
| | |village (about 100 tukls) of El
| | |Alob, the numerous sandy ridges so
| | |typical of S.E. Kordofan commence.
| | |
_Galet_ | 9 | 30½ |The name of the wells (not
| | |visited) and hill passed about ¾
| | |mile to the N. of the road. About
| | |½ a mile before reaching the
_Salogi_ | 2½ | 33 |wells, the rain village of Salogi,
| | |consisting of about 40 tukls, is
| | |passed on the top of a hill. There
| | |were eight wells in use (February,
| | |1901); water apparently plentiful
| | |about 12 feet below the surface.
| | |
_Gamas_ | 2½ | 35½ |About 30 tukls. Four wells about
| | |18 feet deep, but only giving a
| | |scanty supply of muddy water.
| | |
_Um Hagar_ | 3½ | 39 |Passed about 1 mile to S. of road.
| | |It is on the main road from Goz
| | |Abu Guma to Gedid, which joins in
| | |about 1 mile further on. There are
| | |four wells about 12 feet deep.
| | |Water fairly plentiful. These are
| | |the westernmost Shankhab wells.
| | |
_Menauel_ | 5 | 44 |Rain village; 20 tukls about ¾
| | |mile N. of track. Wells dry. Main
| | |road to Gedid (11 miles) goes
| | |direct, but if water is required,
_Um Beiru_ | 2½ | 46½ |must go about 2 miles W. to Um
| | |Beiru where there are about 60
| | |wells 15 feet deep. Water
| | |plentiful, good shade.
| | |
_Gedid_ | 9½ | 56 |Lies in a basin surrounded on
| | |three sides by low sandy ridges,
| | |on which are permanent villages.
| | |There are also several temporary
| | |encampments of Arabs who come to
| | |live near the wells in dry season.
| | |In the rains water stands in large
| | |pools in this basin, and in the
| | |dry weather there are many wells
| | |about 10 feet deep with plenty of
| | |water. It is the headquarters of
| | |the Gimma, and is a comparatively
| | |large gum centre; there are
| | |several Greek traders living here
| | |(February, 1901). Some of the best
| | |gum country in Kordofan lies
| | |westwards between here and Ageila.
| | |From here to Dar El Ahamda there
| | |are two roads, that _viâ_ Meika
| | |being the longer; but the greatest
| | |distance without water is only 17
| | |miles, whereas by the direct road
| | |there is no water for nearly 30
| | |miles. Gedid is now (1904) the
| | |Head Quarters of a District.
| | |
Goz Um Tibeir | 1½ | 57½ |The latter road runs due S. _viâ_
| | |Goz Um Tibeir, where are several
| | |villages watering from Gedid,
| | |after which no inhabitants are
Makheita | 10 | 67½ |met, except perhaps a few gum
| | |pickers at Makheita, until Dar El
| | |Ahamda is reached.
| | |
_Wad Mahmud_ | 5 | 72½ |There is an ‘id’ here, but the
| | |wells are dry very early in the
| | |year. This was the site of Abd El
| | |Rahim Abu Dugal’s deim, from which
| | |he raided Dar El Ahamda in the
| | |summer of 1899.
| | |
Khor Senitai | 3½ | 76 |Said to be boundary between the
| | |Gimma and Dar El Ahamda. There is
| | |very dense kittr bush about here,
| | |though it does not interfere much
| | |with travelling.
| | |
Um Wabar | 2 | 78 |The country here becomes more open
| | |and is studded with small kurmet
| | |bushes.
| | |
_Um Subagha_ | 8½ | 86½ |Four wells, 20 feet deep, little
| | |water. Road from Goz Abu Guma
| | |_viâ_ Id El Gim (9 miles) joins in
| | |here. This is the usual route to
| | |Goz Abu Guma taken by people from
| | |Tagale and Southern Kordofan.
| | |
| | |
Alternative | — | — |The alternative route from Gedid
route | | |_viâ_ Goz El Homara passes at
| | |first through thickish kittr bush,
| | |and then through more open country
| | |to Meika (10½ miles). The site of
| | |the Khalifa’s deim, defeat, and
| | |death (1899) lies a little to the
| | |W. of the direct road to Meika,
Rahad | 6½ | 62½ |and is reached _viâ_ Rahad
Asheishat | | |Asheishat, which contains water
| | |for some time after the rains (in
| | |March, 1901, it had still a little
| | |very foul water in it). People are
| | |said to collect here during the
| | |rains.
| | |
| | |The site of the battle is close by
| | |on the E. of the road, and the
Um Debreikat | 2½ | 65 |position of the deim which was
| | |alongside the road is still
| | |recognisable from the stumps of
| | |the trees cut down.
| | |
| | |There is also a large pool on S.
| | |of road, about 150 yards by 80
| | |yards, and there are the remains
| | |of a good deal of recent dukhn
| | |cultivation in the vicinity.
| | |
_Meika_ | 3 | 68 |Five groups of wells used by the
| | |Gimma and a few of the Selim
| | |Baggara. Water plentiful about 12
| | |feet down.
| | |
| | |From here the road runs S. to Goz
| | |El Homara (4 miles), the
| | |cultivating ground of the Selim
| | |and a few of the Gimma Arabs, and
| | |thence to Id El Gim (17 miles) in
| | |Dar El Ahamda, joining the direct
| | |road from Gedid at Um Subagha
| | |(portion Goz El Homara to Id El
| | |Gim was not traversed).
| | |
_Um Subagha_ | 27 | 95 |From here the road passes through
| | |very dense kittr bush, which
| | |impedes the rate of travelling
| | |considerably.
| | |
Mafri | 7 | 102 |A small village; water supply from
| | |Id Tefangerun.
| | |
_Id | 2½ | 104½ |In the Khor Ardeiba, which is said
Tefangerun_ | | |to originate in the Tagale
| | |mountains, and to flow S.E. to the
| | |Nile. In it are nearly all the
| | |wells in Dar El Ahamda, none of
| | |which however, except those of El
| | |Akaf, can be relied on to contain
| | |much water towards the end of the
| | |dry season.
| | |
| | |The Khor Ardeiba is not, as a
| | |matter of fact, known by the same
| | |name for more than a mile or two,
| | |as it takes the name of each
| | |successive district through which
| | |it passes. It has a shallow ill-
| | |defined bed, but is traceable by
| | |the number of heglig and other
| | |green trees which grow in it.
| | |
Dura | 3½ | 108 |The road follows the khor and
| | |passes wells at Um Desis and at
| | |Dura, a village (no well) from
| | |which J. Um Talha is visible; a
| | |track branches off southwards
| | |through very dense kadad bush, and
| | |1¾ miles on joins another track
_Gamelein_ | 1½ | 109½ |from Gamelein (1¼ miles), which is
| | |the usual starting point for
| | |Tagale, and where there are
| | |several wells. The track then
| | |leads S.W. across a cotton soil
| | |plain thickly covered with bush,
_J. Um Talha_ | 50½ | 160 |chiefly talh and kittr, to J. Um
(Tagale) | | |Talha, one of the Tagale group of
| | |mountains under Mek Geili Adam. It
| | |is inhabited by Nubas, and has
| | |several wells. _See_ route No. 98.
| | |
| | |The distance from Gamelein to Um
| | |Talha is only very roughly
| | |estimated, and cannot be relied
| | |on.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
76.—GOZ ABU GUMA TO DAR EL AHAMDA.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, MARCH, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Goz Abu Guma | — | — |Goz Abu Guma, properly Zeinuba, is
| | |on right bank of White Nile and is
| | |the head quarters of a District.
| | |There is a post and telegraph
| | |office and a fair suk. In good
| | |years plenty of grain can be
| | |bought here. At low Nile in order
| | |to cross to left bank, a branch of
| | |the river is crossed by a ford to
| | |two islands, thence there is a
West bank | 1½ | 1½ |ferry to W. bank, where there are
| | |several gum depôts. The road from
| | |Dueim _viâ_ El Alob passes here
| | |and follows the river southwards
| | |to Kaka and Kodok. A much used
| | |road also leads to Gedid _viâ_ Um
| | |Hagàr (_see_ Route No. 9) 20
| | |miles, thence _viâ_ Taiara to El
| | |Obeid.
| | |
| | |The road to Dar El Ahamda leads
| | |S.W. over the usual more or less
| | |undulating and open bush covered
_El Koru_ | 3½ | 5 |country to El Koru; a largish
| | |village said to have wells (not
| | |seen). Soon after leaving this a
| | |road from the river coming from
| 3½ | 8½ |N.E. joins in and 3 miles further
| | |on another track branches off S.W.
| | |to Um Adda (6 miles) where there
| | |are several wells.
| | |
_Id Teheima_ | 1¼ | 9¾ |The track followed led S. to Id
| | |Teheima, several fair wells and
_Id Um Zaaf_ | 6 | 15¾ |villages, thence down a very bare
| | |valley to Id Um Zaaf situated in
| | |the middle of a perfectly open
| | |level grassy basin, which looks as
| | |if it might be swampy in the
| | |rains. Several wells or holes;
| | |water plentiful, not more than 5
| | |feet down.
| | |
_Um Zaaf_ | 1¼ | 17 |Goz Um Zaaf with a village on the
| | |top of it. Near the S. end of the
| | |goz there is another well, but
| | |with little water. A road runs
| | |from here eastwards to the river
| | |(12 miles?), and another westwards
| | |_viâ_ Waar (8 miles) to Gedid (24
| | |miles).
| | |
_Suda_ | 7½ | 24½ |Road followed runs S.W. through a
| | |good deal of kittr and gum bush to
| | |Suda, which is a small village
| | |perched on the usual Goz.
| | |
| | |There are two lots of wells and
| | |water is comparatively plentiful.
| | |Good shade. There are several
| | |other villages near. Here the road
| | |from Um Adda, another from Um
| | |Hagàr _viâ_ Waar, a third from
| | |Gedid _viâ_ Um Debreikat, and a
| | |fourth from Meika unite. A path
| | |also leads S.E. to Jebelein (25
| | |miles) _viâ_ Andaraba (no water
| | |_en route_).
| | |
Um Huta | 1½ | 26 |Continuing S. the road passes a
| | |village named Um Huta to the W.
Goz El Shubai | 5 | 31 |(no water), and later crosses Goz
| | |El Shubai, the highest hill in
| | |this part of the country. There is
| | |an “id” at its S.E. end, but it
| | |had no water (March, 1901).
| | |
| | |Here a track branches off
| | |eastwards to Goz El Homara, and
| | |about 2 miles further on another
| | |from El Homara runs eastwards to
| | |Um Gereib.
| | |
Um Sir | 6 | 37 |At Um Sir (Selim) there were
| | |several wells and plenty of water
| | |in March, 1901, but in the same
| | |month, 1902, there was said to be
| | |very little.
| | |
| | |There were also the remains of a
| | |good deal of cultivation about.
| | |
| | |A road leads from El Homara _viâ_
| | |these wells to Jebelein (about 18
| | |miles).
| | |
Mit El Ghaneis| 1 | 38 |Small cultivation village.
| | |
Goz El Gharak | 2 | 40 |A slight elevation on which is
| | |dukhn cultivation N. of track.
| | |
Rahad Waar | 3½ | 43½ |A large natural rain tank, dry
| | |soon after rains, but many Arabs
| | |congregate here whilst there is
| | |water.
| | |
Khor Talh | 3½ | 47 |After passing through thick talh
| | |bush, a shallow khor, probably
| | |that known on the Gedid Um Subagha
| | |road as Senitai, is passed.
| | |
Um Fatma | 3 | 50 |A well known belt of thick kittr
| | |about a mile in width, said to be
| | |N. boundary of Dar El Ahamda.
| | |
| | |After this is passed country is
| | |comparatively open.
| | |
Id Heidub | 10 | 60 |Several wells; water not very
| | |plentiful (March, 1901).
| | |
Id Nagi | 3 | 63 |One or two wells, but very little
| | |water (March, 1901). Splendid
| | |shade.
| | |
El Gedul | 3 | 66 |Rather large village (for these
| | |parts); water from Id Nagi.
| | |
| | |Soon after leaving El Gedul some
| | |very dense kadad, &c., bush is
| | |entered and continues to
| | |
Mageikha | 2½ | 68½ |A small cultivation village.
| | |
Wad El Khot | 1½ | 70 |Small village; water from Saneit.
| | |Dense kittr bush which interferes
| | |with camels is now traversed.
| | |
Saneit | 2 | 72 |Small village residence of Sheikh
| | |Abdel Rahman Taher, head Sheikh of
| | |Dar El Ahamda. Several wells in a
| | |shallow khor; fairly good supply
| | |of water. From here a road leads
| | |S. to El Akaf (4½ miles), good
| | |wells, thence _viâ_ Id Nemeid
| | |(wells 11½ miles) to the Nile,
| | |probably at Um Asherin, about 20
| | |miles beyond.
| | |
Gamelein | 2¼ | 74¼ |The road leads up the khor to
| | |Gamelein, described in Route 75,
| | |and thence to J. Tagale.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
77.—GOZ ABU GUMA TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ SHERKEILA AND RAHAD.
FROM A REPORT BY CAPTAIN C. H. LEVESON, 18TH HUSSARS, NOVEMBER, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Goz Abu Guma | — | — |Bad landing place—easily improved;
| | |also bad watering place at this
| | |season (November) for animals;
| | |buckets necessary. No good grass
| | |close. Camel fly bad.
| | |
_Menauel_ | 24 | 24 |Several pools; best, 50 by 30
| | |yards. Water good.
| | |
_Gedid_ | 11 | 35 |Good road. Several pools; water
| | |fair.
| | |
_Abu Rukba_ | 18 | 53 |Small fula, dirty water, 3 miles
| | |W. of village, would be dry by end
| | |of November. Drinking water from
| | |wells. Close cultivated country.
| | |
_Um Kueika_ | 25 | 78 |No water at Um Shokaba or Um
| | |Hagar, so went on to Um Kueika.
| | |Shallow fula, filthy water, more
| | |like liquid manure. Wells not much
| | |better. Thousands of water melons
| | |are grown instead.
| | |
_Sherkeila_ | 20 | 98 |No water at Ageila. Big lake at
| | |Sherkeila—fair water; also good
| | |water from wells. Road, before
| | |reaching here, heavy going. Bad
| | |place for horses.
| | |
_Um Ruaba_ | 18 | 116 |No Tebeldi trees, but big fula, 50
| | |yards by 40. Country more open.
| | |Passed big village, named Gogham.
| | |3 miles short of Um Ruaba. No
| | |water at Shamagatta, so marched
| | |_viâ_ Rahad.
| | |
_Gadadin_ | 6 | 122 |Big village.
| | |
_Abli_ | 6 | 128 |No village. Half a mile off road,
| | |in thickly wooded khor, were 3
| | |small pools, each 20 yards
| | |diameter; also another smaller
| | |pool of clean drinking water.
| | |
_Um Kheiran_ | 16 | 144 |Road over succession of ridges of
| | |deep red sand, rendering going
| | |heavy. After passing Village
| | |Eilafun, country open. Large fula
| | |at Um Kheiran, 70 yards wide—good
| | |water.
| | |
_Umbeil_ | 3 | 147 |Village.
| | |
_Fula Um | 4 | 151 |Large fula, 120 yards by 80, 3
Sheikh_ | | |feet deep. Good clear water.
| | |
_Rahad Lake_ | 11 | 162 |Lake 3 miles long, ½ mile broad,
| | |about 3 feet deep—good water.
| | |Numbers of mosquitoes and sand
| | |flies. Big village about 2 miles
| | |from lake.
| | |
_Mao_ | 10 | 172 |Tebeldi trees and well. Road from
| | |here onwards much obstructed by
| | |trees.
| | |
_J. Ein_ | 19 | 101 |At foot of rocky hill is a well,
| | |said to be a spring. 60 buckets
| | |did not empty it. Forest very
| | |thick and full of deep khors about
| | |here.
| | |
J. Deigo | 11 | 202 |2 small fulas of filthy water
| | |hardly drinkable by horses.
| | |
El Obeid | 9 | 211 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
78.—GEDID TO EL RAHAD _viâ_ AGEILA.
BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, DECEMBER, 1901.
This road is very swampy in the rains.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Gedid_ | — | — |Two good wells. Many Gimma
| | |villages near. They are not
| | |occupied during the rains, as
| | |there is little cultivation near.
| | |Good shade. Track over cotton
| | |soil, thick bush.
| | |
Abu Rukba | 17 | 17 |Some old wells. The tomb of the
| | |Khalifa’s father is on a hill a
| | |little to the N. of the road.
| | |There are a great many tracks
| | |here. Local guide necessary.
| | |
_Um Afgheim_ | 18 | 35 |Pool and one well. Track now leads
| | |over many sandy ridges. Between
| | |the ridges black cotton soil. Bush
| | |thick in places.
| | |
_Ageila_ | 14 | 49 |Several wells (14) with good
| | |supply of water. The village of
| | |Sheikh Yasin Yusef head Sheikh of
| | |the Gowamas is a mile N. of wells.
| | |Good shade. Water stands here in
| | |rains and mosquitoes are very bad.
| | |(There is a road from here to
| | |Sherkeila, 12 miles). There is now
| | |less black soil, and the bush
| | |becomes less thick.
| | |
_Um Ruaba_ | 24 | 73 |A large fula with wells. The
| | |latter are very bad. Much trouble
| | |in watering ten camels. Good
| | |shade. The village is 1½ miles to
| | |the N.
| | |
Track to | 12 | 85 |[To Shamagatta 12 miles, Taiara 30
Shamagatta and| | |miles].
Taiara | | |
| | |Country becomes undulating, sandy
| | |ridges, black soil between.
| | |
_El Eilafun_ | 10 | 95 |A small place with one well, but
| | |little water.
| | |
Um Sereiha | 1 | 96 |Small village, water from El
| | |Eilafun. These two villages were
| | |once large places, now very poor.
| | |Good track.
| | |
_El Rahad_ | 22 | 118 |Several large villages, much
| | |cultivation and small suk. Lake
| | |now full.
| | |
| | |N.B.—Lake was dry in autumn 1902.
| | |When dry, wells are dug in bed of
| | |the lake.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
79.—KAKA TO OPPOSITE JEBELEIN, BY LEFT BANK.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, MARCH TO APRIL, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Kaka Meshra | — | — |A good landing place at low Nile,
| | |but impossible at high. Track from
| | |here to opposite Jebel Ahmed Agha
| | |runs in N.E. direction, and lies
| | |some way from the river.
| | |
_Moro_ | 2½ | 2½ |Most northerly Shilluk village,
| | |part of the Kaka district. Country
| | |round here is bushy, with certain
| | |number of good trees.
| | |
_Arab village_| ¾ | 3¼ |Part of the Kenana tribe, who are
| | |to be found in considerable
| | |numbers in the vicinity of
| | |Fashoda, Fama, Atara, and Kaka.
| | |
Debba Adaraba | 1¾ | 5 |On right of track. Site of old
| | |Shilluk village.
| | |
Debba El Asal | ¾ | 5¾ |On right of track. There is a very
| | |fair track all along here,
| | |passable all the year round, but
| | |crossing a number of shallow khors
| | |which would be a serious obstacle
| | |in the rains. After passing El
| | |Asal, the bush gives place to fine
| | |park-like land, situated on high
| | |sandy ground.
| | |
_Ferik_ | 2¼ | 8 |Sheep ferik of Baggara Selim
| | |Arabs, only occupied by them
| | |during dry season. The whole of
| | |the country from Kaka to Jebelein
| | |is the Selim country, over which
| | |they roam from December to May. A
| | |number of Hemeida and other Arabs
| | |from Kordofan also come and graze
| | |their flocks here.
| | |
| 5¼ | 13¼ |Small Shilluk village on what is
| | |an island in the rains; I was
| | |unable to find out the name of it,
| | |but the name of the sheikh is
| | |Angwet.
| | |
| ¾ | 14 |Track here crosses two khors which
| | |were dry in April. Forest all
| | |along here on left. Wide river
| | |foreshore with khors on right.
| | |
| 2½ | 16½ |A big khor runs into the river
| | |from the west—dry in April. Some
| | |very fine big trees about here,
| | |some of the timber being
| | |exceptionally long and straight.
| | |
Debba Duara El| 3¾ | 20¼ |Debba on right, high sandy ground
Sogheir | | |and fine forest.
| | |
Debba Duara El| 2¼ | 22½ |Big khor running alongside of
Kebir | | |track on right. It is impossible
| | |to get to the river anywhere in
| | |this country, except at one or two
| | |recognised places, without
| | |struggling over a wide foreshore
| | |of half-burnt tangled grass. Track
| 1 | 23½ |crosses a khor.
| | |
Debba Berdan | 6 | 29½ |
| | |
_Ferik_ | 1¼ | 30¾ |Sheep ferik of Selim Baggara.
| | |
Debba | 2 | 32¾ |On left of track. Good level
| | |ground and park-like land;
| | |excellent going under foot. Owing
| | |to the track being at a
| | |considerable distance from the
| | |river, and the khors not all
| | |having water in them, it is
| | |advisable to travel about this
| | |country with a guide, as certain
| | |spots are known to the Arabs as
| | |camping grounds, where generally a
| | |large ardeb tree is to be found
| | |with water close at hand. First
| | |sight of the jebel from here.
| | |
Debba Berdan | 2¼ | 35 |Another debba of this name.
| | |Country bushy.
| | |
_Debba Aliang_| 3½ | 38½ |Track now runs generally between
| | |the forest on the left and khor on
| 6½ | 45 |right. A wide khor all along here
| | |on the right, then a thick belt of
| | |trees between it and the river.
| | |
| 2 | 47 |The khor here runs into the
| | |river—a considerable amount of
| | |water in it for the last 10 miles.
| | |
_Meshra | ⅛ | 47⅛ |An excellent meshra at low Nile,
Meteima_ | | |and not at all impossible at high.
| | |After having pushed through about
| | |80 yards of reeds, the high sandy
| | |bank is reached and access gained
| | |to the inland track, which is
| | |excellent all the year round.
| | |Jebel Ahmed Agha opposite. River
| | |about 1,000 yards wide here.
| | |Following the ordinary track this
| | |is the first time that the river
| | |water can be obtained after
| | |leaving Kaka. Selim Baggara ferik
| | |about ½ mile inland here in bush.
| | |Track from here northwards runs
| | |through a fine forest for about 6
| | |miles, when it debouches on to
| | |wide river foreshore.
| | |
_Ferik_ | 6⅜ | 53½ |Sheep ferik of Selim Arabs in
| | |bush.
| | |
Khor Nagor | 2¼ | 55¾ |A khor is crossed here which is an
| | |obstacle to any transport except
| | |carriers all the year round,
| | |having a water channel of about 8
| | |feet, and a depth of 5 feet,
| | |choked with grass. This khor bends
| | |round northwards and joins the
| | |river just S. of Meshra Alwat
| | |(right bank) (which is a name
| | |however but little known to the
| | |Arabs, who generally speak of it
| | |as the “Balad Selim Bangan”). The
| | |track follows this khor inland, as
| | |the “island,” or ground between it
| | |and the river, though dry in the
| | |dry season, is exceedingly bad
| | |going for animals and men, owing
| | |to cracks and rank grass.
| | |
_Ferik_ | 6½ | 62¼ |Track strikes the khor again. A
| | |small ferik under a well-known
| | |Selim Arab, Yasin, a little grey-
| | |headed man.
| | |
Debba Tebeldia| 1½ | 63¾ |Track crosses the khor here. This
| | |country being practically
| | |uninhabited—and full of game—is a
| | |haunt of lions. I saw three when
| | |marching along the track all
| | |within 100 yards of each other.
| | |The Jackson’s Hartebeeste is to be
| | |obtained here also. Track now runs
| | |on left side of khor; thick forest
| | |all round.
| | |
Debba Nabagaia| 4¾ | 68½ |High open debba left; this is the
| | |Nabagaia district. Country now
| | |changes generally to bush, with,
| | |as a rule, a belt of trees
| | |somewhere between the track and
| 5 | 73½ |the river.
| | |
_Minadak_ | 1½ | 75 |A fair meshra; opposite Alwat.
| | |Selim ferik about ¾ mile inland in
| | |bush. Just inland of the bush
| | |there extends a vast plain covered
| | |with thorn, scrub, and grass, and
| | |abounding with game.
| | |
Debba Megabr | 7½ | 82½ |Left, and a Selim ferik just S. of
| | |it.
| | |
_Ferik_ | 3 | 85½ |Another Selim ferik; wide khor on
| | |right of track.
| | |
| 1 | 86½ |Khor close to track; big ardeb
| | |tree, and mid-day camp.
| | |
| 1 | 87½ |A branch of the river is visible
| | |about 300 yards off on right.
| | |Track is now alternately sandy and
| | |good and cracked and very bad; the
| | |latter state owing to the number
| | |of shallow khors the track passes
| | |over. Country bushy.
| | |
_Ardeb Aliga_ | 12 | 99½ |Near river bank. Good camping
| | |ground, as there is little shade
| | |to be got, except under these (to
| | |the Arabs) well-known ardeb trees.
| | |
_Ardeb | 2¾ | 102¼ |Another big ardeb tree. Shortly
Matemenat_ | | |after this the track descends on
| | |to the foreshore and continues
| | |thus to opposite Renk, where there
| | |is a fair meshra in the dry season
_Renk_ | 3¾ | 106 |only.
| | |
_Hasoia_ | 4¾ | 110¾ |Arab encampments. Island of Hasoia
| | |here also. The track winds
| | |monotonously through interminable
| | |kittr bush, generally within reach
| | |of the river. Selim feriks thick
| | |for the next 17 miles; but as they
| | |are only temporary, and change
| | |every year, it is not worth while
| | |marking them all down.
| | |
Debba El Tor | 23¼ | 134 |On left of track.
| | |
Um Ashrin | 2½ | 136½ |Bush very thick here. Island of
| | |Waka (Bulli) stated to be opposite
| | |here. (This was the name given by
| | |the Arabs on this occasion, and
| | |probably differs from any other
| | |known name.)
| | |
_Meshra_ | 4½ | 141 |Meshra used by the Arabs during
| | |the dry season.
| | |
_El Ardeb_ | 22 | 163 |Meshra, and Selim encampments,
| | |opposite Jebelein, bearings of the
| | |two chief peaks of which 114° and
| | |70° respectively. This is the
| | |chief meshra of the Selim people,
| | |as it leads to their villages,
| | |which are about 15 miles inland
| | |opposite Jebelein.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
NOTE.—The information _re_ the track from Renk to the Jebelein is
from a Report by El M. A. Said Eff. Nur El Din, Police Officer, Renk.
80.—OMDURMAN TO EL SAFIA WELLS.
BY MAJOR N. M. SMYTH BEY, V.C., QUEEN’S BAYS, NOVEMBER AND
DECEMBER, 1901.
Most of country between Omdurman and El Safia is so barren that the
grazing grounds are very limited in area, and the population is so
sparse that beaten tracks are only to be found in the vicinity of
the watering places.
Most of the country is scattered with low samr bush, which, not
being in leaf owing to the scarcity of rain this year, affords little
shade. Dead trees afford an abundant supply of fuel. Many wells get
partly filled up with drift sand, or with mud brought down by the
infiltration of water, which may be quickly cleaned out. The supply
at all wells is dependent on the amount of rainfall.
N.B.—As there are no well-defined tracks, and the distances have been
measured off the map, they are probably all too short.—H. H. S. M.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Omdurman | — | — |Leaving the town the route bears a
| | |little S. of W. over hard sandy
| | |soil. A little low scattered bush.
| | |Jebel Duieim Serob (?) is left to
| | |the S. Sand hills are met. Some
| | |samr bush.
| | |
Um Hei | 27 | 27 |Old wells.
| | |
_Um Teital_ | 7 | 34 |Twenty wells in red clay, all dry.
| | |Water is found after ordinary
| | |rainfall at 15 feet, but often
| | |fails about February. Shobil
| | |wells, 30, all dry, are 3 miles to
| | |the N., and Abd El Mokeit, 20
| | |wells, where water drains in
| | |slowly at 12 feet through red
| | |clay, are 6 miles to the N.
| | |
| | |The country here belongs to the
| | |Walad Ogba section of the
| | |Kababish, who have much
| | |cultivation in the neighbourhood.
| | |Abd El Mokeit wells water 500
| | |sheep daily.
| | |
| | |The route bears due W. over
| | |undulating country.
| | |
Melh El Maagil| 21½ | 55½ |A pool in Khor Mogaddam, 100 yards
| | |by 10 yards, lasts till January. A
| | |mile W. several similar pools
| | |exist after good rainfall. There
| | |are some salt licks a mile to the
| | |S.E.
| | |
| | |There is now some track in the
| | |wadi bearing S.W. Sayal bush.
| | |
_Bag Bag_ | 12 | 67½ |Pool in wadi, dry in November. The
| | |old wells fallen in. N. of them
| | |are two groups of 15 open wells,
| | |half a mile apart, in the bed of
| | |the wadi. Copious water at 15
| | |feet.
| | |
| | |The route now bears nearly N.W.
| | |over undulating country, little
| | |bush.
| | |
_Habisa_ | 24 | 91½ |Id El Kebir, 50 wells of good
| | |water 15 feet deep. The other
| | |wells here are—El Khirwa, 20
| | |wells, 15 feet deep, good water,
| | |and Neimura, 40 wells, depth 25
| | |feet, all dry November, 1901.
| | |
_Id El Gurud_ | 5 | 96½ |Due W. and higher up the khor is a
| | |group of 3 wells, dry. One mile W.
| | |a group of 15 wells in bed of a
| | |sandy wadi; at a depth of 15 feet
| | |copious water. This water is said
| | |to have been first discovered by
| | |Arabs finding water holes
| | |scratched in the sand after rain
| | |by the apes that exist in the
| | |neighbourhood.
| | |
| | |There is now a slight track which
| | |bears W.N.W. as far as J. Khashm
| | |El Kelb, which is left to the N.,
| | |and then bears W. and W.S.W. over
| | |broken ground.
| | |
_Derota_ | 40½ | 137 |Thirty wells, all dry except one.
| | |Eight feet deep on rock, bed kept
| | |open by foxes burrowing in the
| | |sand.
| | |
| | |Three miles to the W. the Haraza-
| | |Dongola road is in the Wadi Bitit.
| | |The country is undulating and in
| | |places stony, and several wadis
| | |are crossed; general direction W.
| | |
_El Safia (Um | 35 | 172 |Um Geiti wells. The wells are
Geiti)_ | | |situated on the E. side of a plain
| | |which is surrounded by hills. The
| | |wells are: (1) Um Geiti, depth 13
| | |feet, good water, considered
| | |inexhaustible. Two hundred more
| | |have fallen in. Five hundred
| | |camels and oxen are watered daily.
| | |In the driest season thousands of
| | |cattle are watered here. (2) Id El
| | |Serajab, 30 wells, not in use, but
| | |only need clearing out to afford a
| | |water supply.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
81.—DEBBA TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ WABRI, ELAI, SAFIA AND KAGMAR.
BY MR. JAMES CURRIE, APRIL, 1903.
The route from Debba to El Obeid is little used, even during the kharif
when water is comparatively plentiful. At that season a few merchants
carry dates to El Obeid, perhaps carrying back gum in exchange. The
portion of the route from Debba to Safia is subject to variations
according to the whim of the guide employed, as well as the season of
the year. Some prefer the route Um Belila—El Amri—Hobagi—Haraza
without going to Safia, whilst others during the dry season travel
_viâ_ Wabri, Inderab, Gumr, Gambar, Habisa, Bagbag, and Kagmar.
The track described below was plainly marked throughout, but, owing to
scarcity of water, would be difficult, at any rate during the driest
season, for a party of over twenty-five camels. Shade and firewood
are plentiful throughout.
In the following report the only places where there was any water on
the road are mentioned.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Debba | — | — |Left Debba at 6 p.m.; country
| | |desert with a good deal of mimosa;
Bir Kufra (1) | 11 | 11 |went about 11 miles and stopped at
| | |Bir Kufra, no water but guides
| | |stated it existed not far from
| | |surface.
| | |
Bir Kufra (2) | 10 | 21 |Continued due S. at 6 a.m.; mimosa
| | |ceased, softish sand and sand
| | |hills, stopped at 10 a.m., at
| | |another old well, Bir Kufra (2),
| | |but guides state water non-
| | |existent at any depth. Resumed at
| | |4 p.m. and entered big khor
| | |running N., Bir Gelud Abid. Many
| | |trees and dry grass. Off at 6 a.m.
| | |Entered Khor Magakha and went on
| | |for 4 hours; arrived at Bir Abu
| | |Sayal, three old water holes, no
| | |water (April, 1903), stopped there
| | |at 10 a.m.; resumed at 4 p.m.,
| | |passing on E. of path Bir Gelud,
| | |another old empty water hole. J.
| | |Abu Heglig here appears on E. of
| | |path. Stopped at 8.30 p.m. Off at
| | |4.30 a.m.; arrived at Wabri 9.30
_Wabri_ | 53 | 74 |a.m. Country for 4 or 5 miles
| | |before Wabri very stony and
| | |barren; three-stone-lined wells
| | |and abundance of water and
| | |grazing. A certain number of
| | |Hawawir Arabs watering their
| | |flocks, and a few camels.
| | |
_Bir Kernak_ | 13 | 87 |Off at 5.10 a.m. for Bir Kernak.
| | |This well is a bit E. of direct
| | |road to Elai. Arrived at 10.10
| | |a.m. Two stone-lined wells about
| | |12 feet deep with abundance of
| | |water.
| | |
_Hassanai_ | 10 | 97 |Off at 4.30 p.m. in a south-
| | |westerly direction; rode for 3½
| | |hours up Wadi Kernak and arrived
| | |at Hassanai, where there are a few
| | |Arab families. There is a hofra
| | |here, where a little water is to
| | |be found, but all camels are
| | |watered at Elai or Kernak.
| | |
_Elai_ | 13 | 110 |Left Hassanai 5.30 a.m. and rode
| | |up Wadi Hassanai, crossed over
| | |rocky pass and arrived at Elai at
| | |10.10 a.m. Two stone-lined wells
| | |(several disused ones) about 12
| | |feet deep, but contain little
| | |water and take 5 hours to fill,
| | |about 4 feet in diameter, and want
| | |cleaning out very badly.
| | |
| | |Stayed at Elai during morning. A
| | |long business watering my camels.
| | |Left at 2.30 p.m. for Safia, went
| | |on till 7 p.m. Three small hills
| | |to E. of track chief land-mark.
| | |Gazelle here very numerous.
| | |
Khor Hobagi | — | — |Off at 2.30 a.m., halted at 8.30
| | |a.m. W. of J. Mutmir. Went on 4
| | |hours in evening due S. Off at
| | |5.30 a.m., entered Khor Hobagi
| | |about 7 a.m. through a very rough
| | |agaba. About 9 a.m. passed a hofra
| | |which contains water during rains.
| | |This is the so-called well of
| | |Hobagi; halted 10.15 a.m.
| | |
| | |Country very much dried up and
| | |very little grazing. Went on in
| | |afternoon from 3 p.m. till 8.30
| | |p.m.
| | |
_Safia_ | 85 | 195 |Off at 2 a.m.; reached Safia at 12
| | |noon. Abundant supply of water
| | |from many wells. Numerous ril or
| | |addra gazelle, also tracks of wild
| | |sheep. Country rocky, much shut in
| | |and heat excessive. Much the
| | |hardest part of journey.
| | |
| | |Stayed at Safia all day, 30 to 40
| | |wells, but not a great deal of
| | |water in each. Water about 20 feet
| | |from surface. Many Kababish Arabs
| | |and a considerable number of
| | |camels, cattle and sheep; gazelle
| | |very numerous.
| | |
| | |Off at 5.30 p.m. for Kagmar,
| | |_viâ_, Haraza hills, where I was
| | |told there was water; went S.E.
| | |and stopped for night at 7.30 p.m.
| | |
J. Haraza | — | — |Off at 4.30 a.m. and arrived at J.
| | |Haraza at 8.30 a.m. Road very bad.
| | |To get to these hills one
| | |digresses some 15 miles from
| | |direct road to Kagmar, and strikes
| | |the range of hills about the
| | |middle. There are two wells, but
| | |one, Bir Shungul, is high up among
| | |the hills and is reached by a very
_Bir Sani_ | — | — |rough track. The second is Bir
| | |Sani, 150 feet deep. I think the
| | |digression to these wells was a
| | |mistake, and would recommend the
| | |direct road.[29]
| | |
| | |This range of hills is inhabited
| | |by Nubas, of whom there are said
| | |to be some 250. There is certain
| | |amount of cultivation.
| | |
| | |Travelled 5.7 in the evening.
| | |
| | |Travelled towards Kagmar all day,
| | |passing J. Hadid on W. of path,
| | |and towards evening catching sight
| | |of J. Atshan on the E.
| | |
_Kagmar_ | 81 | 276 |Arrived at Kagmar in the evening,
| | |having passed on E. of track J.
| | |Atshan and J. Royan.
| | |
| | |Water plentiful from here to El
| | |Obeid, _vide_ Routes 71 and 83.
| | |
_Bara_ | 48 | 324 |
| | |
_El Obeid_ | 38 | 362 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
82.—SHEGEIG TO EL SHOWA, _viâ_ KAGMAR.
BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, NOVEMBER, 1902.
This route is at present but little used, though there is
a well-defined track throughout. It forms part of the old road to
Darfur and is now used by merchants going to Nahud. From El Showa
they go to Um Shidera, and thence, having watered their camels,
to Shallota and Nahud.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Shegeig_ | — | — |Leaving Zerga wells (where there
| | |is a large fula in the rains), the
| | |track is at first hard to pick up
| | |owing to the numerous cattle
| | |tracks about. Going nearly due W.,
| | |Fula Naima is first seen and then
| | |Fula Bereinku, 5 miles from Zerga
| | |wells. The track then goes along a
| | |level ridge to the northern
| | |shoulder of J. Derish. Good going,
| | |plenty of shade and grazing.
| | |
Fula Um Sunta | 31 | 31 |A small pool on the N. side of the
| | |road. Crossing the ridge, the
| | |ground becomes gravelly and in
| | |places stony, for next 6 miles.
| | |Kittr bush and a few meika trees
| | |then appear and shade becomes
| | |rare. The road crosses Wadi El
| | |Kigeira and Wadi El Luggud, both
| | |of which are swampy in the rains;
| | |several salt workings are passed.
| | |
F. Shershar | 20 | 51 |A small pool. Sayal bush now
| | |commences and is thick in places
| | |to near Um Sayala, when the track
| | |becomes difficult to follow.
| | |
_Um Sayala_ | 7½ | 58½ |A small Jaalin village with one
| | |excellent well ½ mile S. Good
| | |shade near village. Leaving the
| | |village there are two tracks, one
| | |to Um Heimeira, one to Id Sabil.
| | |The latter is the shorter.
| | |
_Id Sabil_ | 8 | 66½ |An excellent well 120 feet deep,
| | |belonging to Sheikh Abd El Nebi
| | |Masud, a Baghdadi. Two hundred
| | |yards N. of the well is a clump of
| | |dom palms which form a good land
| | |mark.
| | |
| | |The whole way to Kajmar from here
| | |there is little or no shade. The
| | |soil is red sand with plenty of
| | |grass and marakh bush.
| | |
Old Um Sayala | 5 | 71½ |Now in ruins. From here there is a
| | |track going S.W. to J. Maganus.
| | |
_Fadlia_ | 6½ | 78 |A small Walad Dagoi village, one
| | |good well. From here there are
| | |roads to Abu Tabr and J. Maganus.
| | |Leaving the well, there is at
| | |first no track, but J. Atmur is
| | |seen in front.
| | |
J. Atmur | 6 | 84 |A small quartz rock with fula and
| | |good shade on the S. side. Good
| | |track.
| | |
_Um Guerfa_ | 15 | 99 |A large village with two excellent
(Hella El | | |wells, 95 feet deep, at which
Sheikh) | | |several hundred sheep and goats
| | |water daily; there are several
| | |small hellas near. Leaving the
| | |main hella, a good well is passed
| | |1 mile on, and another 2 miles
| | |beyond.
| | |
_Harais Well_ | 5½ | 104½ |A good well belonging to the
| | |Zaghawa village 1 mile N. of road.
| | |From here J. Gahania is seen due
| | |W. The direct road crosses the col
| | |between the two most northerly
| | |hills.
| | |
_Gahania_ | 8½ | 113 |A Zaghawa village on the N. side
| | |of jebel. The wells (one sweet,
| | |remainder salt) are 1 mile S. of
| | |the jebel. Thence to J. Kagmar
| | |there are many heglig trees, but
| | |all grass is eaten down soon after
| | |the rains by the large herds
| | |watered.
| | |
_Kagmar_ | 6 | 119 |A Zaghawa village. The wells are
| | |on the S. side of the jebel at the
| | |bottom of Wadi El Sigai. Plenty of
| | |good shade and grazing in the
| | |wadi. Leaving the wells, the track
| | |goes over a bare plain for 4
| | |miles. The country then becomes
| | |undulating for 5 miles. Steep soft
| | |sandy hills. Marakh on the hills,
| | |sayal in the bottoms. Bad going.
| | |The remainder of the road to
| | |Shershar is over nearly level
| | |country. Bush thick in places.
| | |
_Shershar | 16 | 135 |The wells, 40 feet deep, are
Wells_ | | |excellent, with good shade and
| | |grazing. The villages are to the
| | |W. Leaving the wells, the road
| | |passes three villages and many
| | |salt wells, and then trends S.W.
| | |through slightly undulating
| | |country, little shade, heavy
| | |going.
| | |
_Um Hashim | 10 | 145 |Two small Ferharana villages with
Bakhit_ | | |two wells 130 feet deep. Much
| | |cultivation. Passing a hella
| | |called Rubshan, much sayal bush is
| | |seen.
| | |
_Wad Medina_ | 6 | 151 |A large village, Sheikh Mohammed
| | |Wad Medina, four good wells and
| | |much cultivation.
| | |
_Um Hashim | 7 | 158 |Good track, over level country. At
Simaui_ | | |this village there is a good well.
| | |Sheikh Timsa Simaui, a Hababin
| | |Arab. The track continues in a
| | |south-westerly direction to
| | |
_El Showa_ | 10½ | 168½ |Two villages with a very good
| | |well. From there there are roads,
| | |W. to El Gleit or Um Shidera and
| | |S. to El Obeid. The bush in the
| | |vicinity consists of marakh and
| | |sayal. Plenty of grazing.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
83.—BARA TO KAGMAR.
BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, MARCH, 1900; WITH ADDITIONS IN DECEMBER, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Bara | — | — |Road at first through much ushur
| | |bush N. by E. Slightly undulating
| | |country; good track.
| | |
_El Hadid_ | 15 | 15 |One good well, 60 feet, and small
| | |Faharana village. Track crosses
| | |several ridges until a large well-
| | |defined one is crossed called El
| | |Khran, then along the base. Marakh
| | |and nabbag bush; little shade.
| | |
_J. Homra_ | 23 | 38 |Small jebel; on S.W. side there is
| | |a small Dar Hamid village, and two
| | |wells 10 feet deep; good water.
| | |Track passes E. of jebel. Open
| | |country; little shade.
| | |
J. Filleiha | 6 | 44 |Low rock jebel, sand much piled up
| | |on N. side. On S. side, a Dar
| | |Hamid village and well 10 feet
| | |deep. Many old wells. Dom palms
| | |and castor oil plants. Good shade.
| | |Track passes to E. of jebel in
| | |Wadi El Sigai, between low ridges.
| | |J. Kagmar seen in front; good
| | |track. Some shade and good
| | |grazing.
| | |
_Kagmar_ | 7½ | 51½ |Small Zaghawa village. Many wells
| | |10 to 20 feet deep; water
| | |practically unlimited. Many
| | |Kababish camps near, and hundreds
| | |of camels water daily. Good
| | |grazing in the wadi, none
| | |elsewhere. Onions procurable from
| | |garden near wells. Much
| | |cultivation.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
84.—EL OBEID TO FOGA, _viâ_ MASRUB.
BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, OCTOBER, 1900.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Obeid | — | — |The road leaves the town in a
| | |north-westerly direction over
| | |sandy ground. On reaching the high
| | |ground, J. Meitan and J. Abu Sinun
| | |are seen in line. Track good, bush
| | |not very thick. A few bad places
| | |in the rains.
| | |
| | |The road leads to the S. end of
| | |
J. Abu Sinun | 22 | 22 |J. Abu Sinun. Here there are two
| | |fulas, both about 100 yards by 50
| | |yards, but shallow and will soon
| | |be dry. There is a deep crack on
| | |the S. side of the jebel in a
| | |rock, known to the arabs, which
| | |now contains a good deal of water,
| | |buckets and ropes are required.
| | |There is now no track. Thick bush.
| | |J. Um Shidera can be seen to the
| | |N.W. from the high ground S. of
| | |the jebel.
| | |
Hella Shiheita| 15½ | 37½ |A small Baza hella; no well. There
| | |is now a good track.
| | |
Hella Ushut | 3 | 40½ |A small Nimr hella; no wells;
| | |track good.
| | |
_Um Shidera_ | 10½ | 51 |The wells are in a hollow S.W. of
| | |the jebel, eight good wells open,
| | |30 feet deep, plenty of water,
| | |many old wells. The hella is ¾
| | |mile N.W. People belong to Dar
| | |Hamid. The track now turns nearly
| | |N.N.W.
| | |
El Gleit | 13½ | 64½ |A small hella, Dar Hamid. The
| | |wells are in a hollow ¾ mile N.,
| | |at the base of the jebel. Ten
| | |wells open, 25 feet deep; good
| | |water, but not very plentiful;
| | |many old ones about. There is a
| | |road from here to El Sheg. The
| | |track now goes N. and N. by W. for
| | |11 miles, and then W. over hard
| | |red sand.
| | |
Masrub | 15 | 79½ |A small hella, Dar Hamid, just
| | |built.
| | |
_Masrub Wells_| 4½ | 84 |The track goes N. to the wells;
| | |two good wells, 5 feet in
| | |diameter, 30 feet deep; eight old
| | |ones near.
| | |
| | |There is now no track. March N.W.
| | |for 6 miles, and then W. through
| | |level country, with little bush
| | |over red sandy soil. At the 14th
| | |mile a ridge (running N. and S.)
| | |50 or 60 feet high is ascended.
| | |There is now a good track (J. Um
| | |Hashas is N.N.E.) over undulating
| | |ground. Two miles beyond the ridge
| | |the road turns S.W.
| | |
J. Idris | 35 | 119 |A hill 100 feet high; 1½ miles
| | |from N. to S., the track goes over
| | |the col between two peaks.
| | |
_Bur Islam_ | 15½ | 134½ |Eight fulas 20 to 30 yards in
| | |diameter, and 4 or 5 feet deep;
| | |water reported to last three
| | |months, then wells are dug a few
| | |feet deep, but water never lasts
| | |until the rains. Several Hamar
| | |hellas near. Bur Islam is a low
| | |lying place, swampy in the rains.
| | |“Bur” means uncultivated.
| | |
| | |There is no track, the direction
| | |is nearly W. and W.S.W., through
| | |bush for 31 miles, when a good
| | |track is struck.
| | |
_Um Sayala_ | 35 | 169½ |A small Hamar village; no well;
| | |tebeldi trees. People get water
| | |from near J. Bishara Taib. Good
| | |track N.W., past a fula now nearly
| | |dry, 100 yards by 80 yards. There
| | |are many old wells.
| | |
J. Bishara | 4 | 173½ |The track goes over a col, N. of
Taib | | |the highest peak, through some old
| | |stone walls, said to have been
| | |Fung fortifications. Good track.
| | |
Hella Ibrahim | 1½ | 175 |Small Hamar hella, water from
| | |Foga. Good track.
| | |
_Foga_ | 1½ | 176½ |Foga wells; these wells consist
| | |really of a series of fulas, 30 to
| | |40 feet in diameter; there are
| | |over 30 in a depression. When the
| | |water gives out the people dig
| | |wells in the bottom, and these
| | |supply water for the rest of the
| | |year.
| | |
| | |The only ruins of the old town I
| | |could find, were two small houses
| | |said to have been the telegraph
| | |office and magazine. The old
| | |telegraph line cannot be traced.
| | |Vide R.’s 85 and 87.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
N.B.—The whole of this road is said to be passable to camels in
the rains, but there would probably be a good deal of difficulty 8
miles from El Obeid, near Abu Sinun, and near Bur Islam.
85.—EL OBEID TO FOGA _viâ_ UM SHEMMA, GLEIT, MASRUB AND GURADI.
BY CAPTAIN B. C. CARTER, LANCASHIRE FUSILIERS, MARCH, 1902.
This route is longer than Route 84, but there is more water.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | — | — |The track is difficult to pick up
| | |in leaving El Obeid, but fairly
| | |good afterwards. Country slightly
| | |rolling and open. Soil light sand,
| | |and good going. Grazing good.
_Um Shemma_ | 32 | 32 |Fairly grassed. At Um Shemma three
| | |wells, broken; 100 to 120 feet
| | |deep. Seem to water a good many
| | |cattle. Wells 3 miles beyond
| | |village.
| | |
_El Sheg or | 19 | 51 |No track at first over rolling
Gebir_ | | |country, fairly open. Marakh
| | |bushes and talh. Seven miles from
| | |wells, a broad track is cut
| | |running to El Sheg or Gebir. Two
| | |or three scattered villages with
| | |cultivation. Good water supply
| | |from the wells 160 feet deep. Seem
| | |to water a lot of goats and sheep.
| | |
_El Gleit_ | 17 | 68 |I believe there is a good track
| | |all the way to El Gleit[30], but
| | |my guide lost his way. Country
| | |dips down and becomes rather close
| | |thornbush to within about 6 miles
| | |of El Gleit, when it opens again.
| | |Scattered villages and
| | |cultivation. Many wells in a khor,
| | |some salt. Water supply permanent
| | |but scanty; should water twenty
| | |camels. Good view of surrounding
| | |country from the jebel which seems
| | |to be called Angag or Gleit.
| | |
_Masrub Wells_| 18 | 86 |Broad track to Masrub through open
| | |country, little grass, talh,
| | |hashab and heglig; two small
| | |villages. Wells in khor, three in
| | |number, 11 feet. Water supply
| | |scanty. It took 3 hours to water
| | |nine camels. No grazing this year.
| | |From here there is no water till
| | |Guradi.
| | |
_Guradi or Abu| 47 | 133 |No track. First point is J. Um Has
Agaga_ | | |Has. Rolling open country. A lot
| | |of heglig trees near the jebel. J.
| | |Katul and Kaja visible all the
| | |way. Passing Wadi Melowa the
| | |country rises gently. Two paths
| | |are crossed. The first comes from
| | |J. Subari where the people get
| | |salt. The second goes from Katul
| | |to Nahud. No water save in tebeldi
| | |trees from _Um Has Has_, J.
| | |Selatia. From this ridge the two
| | |small jebels of Guradi, behind
| | |which lie the wells are visible.
| | |Below the ridge is a shallow
| | |depression about 2 miles across
| | |which becomes a fula in the rains
| | |and should hold a lot of water.
| | |Country all much the same open and
| | |rolling in parts. Light sandy
| | |soil. About a dozen wells lie
| | |close together 20 feet deep. Water
| | |comes slowly. Might water a
| | |company of Camel Corps if wells
| | |were seized over night, but
| | |ordinarily not more than 15 or 20
| | |camels. Grazing poor. Tracks lead
| | |to Kaja and Hofra. Latter village
| | |has no water. Bir Soderi water
| | |plentiful.
| | |
_Foga_ | 70 | 203 |From Guradi to Foga no water.
| | |Country rolling open steppe. Very
| | |heavy going for about 8 miles
| | |before reaching track between
| | |Hofra and Foga. This line is
| | |evidently shorter and better than
| | |the old road. No track at first
| | |but steering easy as J. Nagut is
| | |always visible. Track when reached
| | |is broad and well worn. From J.
| | |Sheikh El Rifa going becomes much
| | |easier, nearly all shok is avoided
| | |by this route. At Foga many wells,
| | |but water scarce after January.
| | |_Vide_ R.’s 84 and 87.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
86.—ABU AGAGA TO BARA.
BY CAPTAIN J. R. O’CONNELL, JANUARY, 1902.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Abu Agaga | — | — |Marching due E., after 6 miles,
| | |pass J. Selatia. No track, bare
| | |plain; then march a little E. of
| | |S. on J. Um Has Has.
| | |
J. Um Has Has | 27 | 27 |After passing the jebel, turn due
| | |S. through thick bush.
| | |
_Masrub_ | 14 | 41 |A small village. Two wells, 20
| | |feet deep, good water. Ten and a
| | |half hours from Abu Agaga. Leaving
| | |Masrub and marching due E., after
| | |15 miles, one passes south of
| | |Jebel Muaiga to
| | |
Megeinis | 24 | 65 |Megeinis, a village. No water,
| | |people use melons instead. About
| | |1½ miles north of the village are
| | |two small hills. Five and a half
| | |hours from Masrub; no track.
| | |
| | |Leaving a track leads due E.
| | |through thick bush.
| | |
_Um Daioka_ | 15 | 80 |A village of Arafia Arabs. Wells 1
| | |mile N. of village called Lowai;
| | |100 feet deep, plenty of water,
| | |but not good. Three and a half
| | |hours from Megeinis. Track now
| | |goes N.E.
| | |
_Rubshan_ | 9 | 89 |Village. Water good. Track turns
| | |S.E. through thick bush.
| | |
_Marra_ | 8 | 97 |Village of Arafia Arabs. Shiekh,
| | |Ahmed Omar. Water not good. Track
| | |goes N.E.
| | |
_Khar Tauil_ | 11 | 108 |Good water in plenty near surface:
| | |gardens, old fig and lime trees; a
| | |few vines. A few Danagla live
| | |here. Six and a half hours from Um
| | |Daioka.
| | |
_Bara_ | 10 | 118 |A broad track goes due E. over
| | |high ridges of red sand to Bara.
| | |No trees. Two and a half hours
| | |from Khor Tauil.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
87.—FOGA TO KAJA (BIR SODERI).
BY COLONEL B. MAHON, C.B., D.S.O., DECEMBER, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Foga | — | — |There are no people actually
| | |living on the site of the old
| | |Mamuria, but there are several
| | |Hamar hellas close by. Foga is a
| | |good military position as there
| | |are several small sand hills which
| | |command the surrounding country,
| | |which used to be open, but is now
| | |more or less covered with bush of
| | |recent growth. There are the
| | |remains of hundreds of old wells
| | |which can be opened with a little
| | |labour, and water got at from 50
| | |feet to 90 feet. People say that
| | |in the old days water was obtained
| | |close to the surface, but that is
| | |not so now; I fancy it was rain-
| | |water. In the dry weather the
| | |people from Kaja Serrug (14 miles)
| | |get water from Foga. The old road
| | |between Foga and Kaja is quite
| | |“dead,” but there is a good road
| | |between Kaja Serrug and Kaja.
| | |
J. Abu Dugeia | 16 | 16 |From Foga you travel N.N.E. about
| | |16 miles with no track until you
| | |strike the road from Kaja Serrug,
| | |near J. Abu Dugeia. This is all
| | |through undulating sandy country
| | |covered with bush; very good
| | |grazing ground for camels.
| | |
J. Esmein | 4 | 20 |A small rocky hill on right of
| | |track, after this road dips into
| | |valley; soil clay, ground flat,
| | |thick bush.
| | |
| 8 | 28 |Small rocky range of hills on left
| | |of road runs parallel with it for
| | |2 miles; country fairly open and
| | |undulating.
| | |
Khor Neilut Um| 5 | 33 |After this, country becomes more
Kasus | | |open and intersected with small
| | |khors which are thickly wooded;
| | |ground sandy and a good lot of
| | |stones and rock.
| | |
Khor Gelti | 11 | 44 |Rather broken ground; road good,
| | |thick bush; direction changes here
| | |E.N.E.
| | |
_Um Gelti_ | 4 | 48 |This is a well, 80 feet deep, sunk
| | |in bottom of dry basin, very
| | |little water and bad.
| | |
| 2 | 50 |Here the bush country ceases and
| | |track leads E.N.E. and E. over
| | |sand dunes, very heavy for camels;
| | |very few trees or shade, but lots
| | |of grazing, until J. Bakalai is
| | |reached.
| | |
J. Bakalai | 21 | 71 |The road passes N. side of J.
| | |Bakalai and runs nearly E. to
| | |Kuku. _Um Abu Agaga_ is 6 miles
| | |S.S.W. of J. Bakalai—a very
| | |indistinct track leading to it—but
| | |it can be recognised by groups of
| | |small hills (rocks): well is near
| | |the furthest one. This is a good
| | |well and has water all the year,
| | |but would not water more than nine
| | |camels at a time.
| | |
_Kuku_ | 19 | 90 |Kuku is a village (two villages)
| | |of blacks on the northern side of
| | |J. Kuku. These people have a lot
| | |of land under cultivation, but
| | |this year all their crops failed.
| | |They have no wells but a good
| | |supply of water in tanks on the
| | |mountains. These tanks are more or
| | |less natural but have been widened
| | |and improved by manual labour, and
| | |very large rocks must have been
| | |removed at some time to make them;
| | |the people now know nothing about
| | |how they were originally made or
| | |have they any tools to do like
| | |work now. All the Kaja district is
| | |covered with the remains of old
| | |villages: it must have been at one
| | |time very thickly populated.
| | |
_Kaja Soderi_ | 7 | 97 |Is 7 miles off to the E.; road
| | |runs along N. side of mountains
| | |for 4 miles, then crosses, and the
| | |wells are on the S. side. Here
| | |there is a plentiful supply of
| | |water: wells from 18 feet to 30
| | |feet. During the kharif there is a
| | |large lake here and the wells are
| | |sunk annually in its bed.
| | |
| | |The whole country between Foga and
| | |Kaja is very suitable for camels
| | |and the Arabs graze thousands
| | |there during the rainy season and
| | |until the fulas dry up.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
88.—NAHUD TO EL FASHER.
AS FAR AS DAM JAMAD BY CAPTAIN B. C. CARTER, THENCE FROM NATIVE
SOURCES.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Nahud | — | — |See routes 19 and 30. Nahud is
| | |about 310 miles from El Dueim.
| | |
Wad Bokhari | 2 | 2 |Large Gowama village. Wide track,
| | |sandy soil. No thick bush.
| | |
Wad Shukab | 6 | 8 |Small Hamar village. Water from
| | |Nahud and melons.
| | |
Daglos | 10 | 18 |Small Hamar village. A few
| | |tebeldis.
| | |
Baruda | 4½ | 22½ |Ditto.
| | |
| | |Track now crosses several sandy
| | |ridges.
| | |
_Wad Banda_ | 14½ | 37 |Large Hamar village. Many tebeldi
| | |trees. People sell water to
| | |travellers. The price varies from
| | |10 burmas for 1 piastre to 10
| | |piastres for 1 burma (burma equals
| | |a large stable bucket). In some
| | |places the track now becomes heavy
| | |owing to soft sand.
| | |
Sheraya | 10 | 47 | } All small places. Here the sand
| | | } hills open out at intervals
Um Karra | 4½ | 51½ | } into circular flats which are
| | | } cultivated. The people go to Um
Daira | 2½ | 54 | } Shanga when the water supply
| | | } from the melons and tebeldis is
Hagera | 1 | 55 | } exhausted. Country fairly open
| | | } and going good.
Kajana | 2 | 57 | }
| | |
_Dam Jamad_ | 16 | 73 |Small Hamar hella on the frontier.
| | |There are 3 other hellas near.
| | |Water from tebeldis.
| | |
| | |Darfur is now entered.
| | |
_El Ogud_ | 24 | 97 |Three wells about 100 feet deep;
| | |water plentiful. Inhabitants are
| | |Fors.
| | |
_Jebel El | 10 | 107 |Two wells nearly 200 feet deep;
Hella_ | | |water plentiful. A detachment of
| | |three companies of Ali Dinar’s
| | |army is quartered here.
| | |
| | |A road from Omdurman _viâ_ Kaja
| | |joins here.
| | |
_Burush_ | 13 | 120 |Small Berti village. Four wells
| | |about 100 feet deep; plenty of
| | |water.
| | |
_Um Kadada_ | 15 | 135 |One large well about 110 feet
| | |deep, or more, but 20 feet of
| | |water at the bottom. This depth of
| | |water is said to be constant.
| | |
_Abiad_ | 25 | 160 |A Geleidat village. Four wells
| | |about 90 feet deep; water
| | |plentiful.
| | |
_Ergud_ | 30 | 190 |Many wells, water plentiful.
| | |
_Fashar_ | 30 | 220 |Two wells 150 feet deep; water
| | |plentiful in rainy season.
| | |
El Fasher | 16 | 236 |Capital of Darfur, see Vol. I, p.
| | |192.
| | |
| | |By road and river, therefore, El
| | |Fasher is about 670 miles from
| | |Khartoum. Between El Obeid and El
| | |Ogud, the first wells in Darfur,
| | |water is very scarce in the dry
| | |season.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
89.—NAHUD TO BUR ISLAM.
BY CAPTAIN C. H. TOWNSEND, 18TH TO 25TH DECEMBER, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Nahud | — | — |The track leaves Nahud in a
| | |northerly direction, very soon
| | |turning N.N.E. The country is
| | |fairly wooded and flat, and
| | |covered with long grass in most
| | |places.
| | |
_Abu Marega_ | 12½ | 12½ |Road still running N.N.E., passes
| | |through this village. It is
| | |inhabited by the Hamar tribe and
| | |is fair sized. Water from tebeldis
| | |but the supply is limited, melons
| | |fairly plentiful.
| | |
_Ahmed Hamdan_| 29½ | 42 |Leaving Abu Marega the track winds
| | |about, but its general direction
| | |is N.N.E. by N. Country rather
| | |undulating and fairly wooded.
| | |About 4 miles before reaching
| | |Ahmed Hamdan, one leaves the main
| | |track, which runs N.E. to Homedo,
| | |and branches off N.E., passing
| | |through wooded and undulating
| | |country.
| | |
| | |Ahmed Hamdan is a small Hamar
| | |village belonging to Ahmed Salam,
| | |the Sheikh being Wad Hamdan. Water
| | |from tebeldis, which are few in
| | |number; good supply of small
| | |melons.
| | |
Wad Kitna | 6 | 48 |From Ahmed Hamdan track runs N.W.,
| | |country hilly and wooded. Wad
| | |Kitna, a very small Hamar village
| | |belonging to Ahmed Salam. From
| | |here Jebel Um Rarib is about 12
| | |miles W.
| | |
| | |(Returning I did not touch at this
| | |place or Ahmed Hamdan, as they are
| | |off the main road.)
| | |
Homedo | 3 | 51 |Between Wad Kitna and this the
| | |track gradually works round N.
| | |again and joins the main track
| | |close to this village. The Country
| | |is wooded but less hilly. Homedo
| | |is a small village of Hamar
| | |people. Water from tebeldis,
| | |supply scanty.
| | |
Id? | 2 | 53 |Track runs N. slightly E., and is
| | |well defined. This is a small
| | |Hamar village.
| | |
_Wad Bakhit_ | 17 | 70 |Road runs N. slightly E., through
| | |fairly wooded and slightly
| | |undulating country, passing two
| | |small Hamar villages, Mekin and
| | |Wad El Beleb, both Hamar,
| | |belonging to Abdel Rahim Bey Abu
| | |Dagal, to Wad Bakhit, a fair-sized
| | |Hamar village under Sheikh Ibrahim
| | |Ahmed, and belonging to Abu Dagal.
| | |There is a very good supply of
| | |tebeldi water here.
| | |
_Bur Islam_ | 19 | 89 |Path runs N.N.E., country wooded
| | |and undulating, 4 miles from Wad
| | |Bakhit one passes a small Hamar
| | |village, Adam Ahmed, belonging to
| | |Abu Dugal to whom Bur Islam also
| | |belongs, the Sheikh at the latter
| | |place being Ahmed El Kagauri. From
| | |here Kaja is 1½ days N. There are
| | |wells close to this village, but
| | |the supply of water is limited,
| | |owing to the bottom of the wells
| | |being rocky, and there are no
| | |implements to cut through it.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
90.—NAHUD TO FOGA.
BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, OCTOBER, 1900; AND MAJOR E. B. WILKINSON,
DECEMBER, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Nahud | — | — |The whole of the road runs through
| | |the Hamar country.
| | |
Bokari | 4 | 4 |Leaving the suk in a north-
| | |westerly direction the track runs
| | |through the Gowama village named
| | |Bokari.
| | |
Jebel El Kurma| 4¼ | 8¼ |Two hills W. of track; to the E.
| | |of the northernmost hill is the
| | |village of Shekaba, 80 huts.
| | |
Hella Wad | 2½ | 10¾ |A small Hamar village, 30 to 40
Munfarih | | |huts. Track continues in same
| | |direction till the Hamar village
Darglos | 6¾ | 17½ |of Darglos is reached. The country
| | |between Nahud and this village is
| | |open bush with some good trees for
| | |timber, but most of the bush
| | |consists of gnarled and twisted
| | |ebony bushes of no value. From
| | |here track trends more to W. till
Bakoda | 6½ | 24 |village Bakoda is reached. Range
| | |of hills, Jebel Barshom, to N.N.E.
| | |of latter village.
| | |
El Gubba | 10½ | 34½ |Track now runs N. to Hella El
| | |Gubba with Jebel Selako to E., and
| | |on to
| | |
Kinneir | 2¼ | 36¾ |Hella Kinneir, 10 huts.
| | |
Gemania | 1½ | 38¼ |Hella Gemania, 20 huts.
| | |
Abu Rasein | 3 | 41¼ |Hella Abu Rasein, 5 huts.
| | |
Hamdan Tumbel | 5½ | 46½ |Track runs N.N.E. to Hella Hamdan
| | |Tumbel, 12 huts.
| | |
Gabra | 7 | 53½ |Track runs N. to Hella Gabra (no
| | |wells exist), and Hella Zarzur,
Zarzur | 2½ | 56 |when track runs N.W. until Hella
| | |Um Bel is reached. J. Biraish to
_Um Bel_ | 4½ | 60½ |W. Two wells giving a fair amount
| | |of water, and many hellas draw
| | |their supply from here.
| | |
J. Um Bel | 1½ | 62 |
| | |
Galusa | — | — |Track now runs N. to Hella Galusa,
| | |20 huts, and then on to
| | |
_Foga_ | 7¼ | 69¼ |Foga. _See_ route 87.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
All villages between Nahud and Hamdan Tumbel procure their water from
tebeldi trees. At Gabra and Zarzur water is procured from Um Bel. There
is a certain amount of dukhn and melon cultivation near each village,
but no other supplies excepting a few chickens.
No water between Nahud and Foga for any party marching, and not more
than ten camels could be watered at Um Bel without depriving the
inhabitants of their daily supply. This year (1901) owing to the
drought there is no crop of water melons.
Country generally undulating and covered thick bush. Good track.
91.—FOGA TO UM BADR.
BY MAJOR E. B. WILKINSON, DECEMBER, 1901.
_Foga._—¾ mile S.W. of the hill, now turned into a defensive post,
are the wells. There are at present (1901) nine wells giving water,
and the Arabs of the Hamar and Kaja tribes are opening more. I have
taken accurate measurements of depths of wells, and the depth varies
from 50 to 80 feet below the surface. Water is only found in very
small quantities at present, no well being able to water more than
30 camels per diem.
In the rains the Arabs dig, and have dug for many years, shallow
hollows which fill up and last them through the winter sufficient
to water their flocks; but this year, owing to very scanty rainfall,
these hollows are all dry.[31]
There are many villages in the neighbourhood, consisting of ten to
fifty huts. Dukhn is cultivated, and the Hamar Arabs also keep many
ostriches, which at this time of year are all plucked quite bare. The
feathers are taken to Nahud, where there is a good market for them.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Foga | — | — |Leaving Foga, track bears N. to
| | |Hella Wad Guibara, consisting of
Wad Guibara | 1½ | 1½ |about thirty huts (Hamar Arabs),
| | |and then track bears N.W. through
| | |bush on Jebel El Rimr. Good going
| | |through country falling for 3½
| | |miles, when a khor is crossed;
| | |direction of drainage, N.E.
| | |
Jebel El Rimr | 5½ | 7 |Jebel El Rimr is reached; this is
| | |a range of hills running from S.W.
| | |to N.E.
| | |
Um Goz | 6 | 13½ |Track still continues through bush
| | |N.W. to Hella Um Goz, which
| | |consisted of a village of not more
| | |than fifteen huts, but which has
| | |recently been burnt by the Furs
| | |sent by Sultan Ali Dinar to punish
| | |the inhabitants, who are Kajawis.
| | |From here an excellent view of the
| | |country can be obtained for many
| | |miles.
| | |
Jebel Zeinat | 1½ | 15 |Leaving Hella Um Goz, the track
Rowaina | | |leads on to Jebel Zeinat Rowaina,
| | |but at 1½ miles I went through the
| | |bush. No track on Jebel Taradid,
| | |over country which is intersected
| | |with many small water channels
| | |(now all dry), but which in the
| | |rains would be impassable for
| | |animals. Surface, cotton soil with
| | |rank dry grass. Flow of water,
| | |N.N.E.
| | |
Jebel Taradid | 7 | 22 |Jebel Taradid, track runs N.
| | |through very broken country,
| | |ranges of low hills to W. and E.
| | |for miles.
| | |
Khor Dormaia | 4 | 26 |Khor Dormaia of the Kajawis, and
| | |the Wadi Melh of the Kababish and
| | |Hamar Arabs, I believe, but none
| | |of the local Arabs know the name
| | |Wadi Melh, and informed me it was
| | |far to the N. This khor, 30 to 35
| | |yards broad, takes its course from
| | |N.W. in the vicinity of J. El Ain,
| | |where there was water (December 4)
| | |in khor. There are signs of a big
| | |flood coming down in the rains
| | |(banks well wooded); current I
| | |should say very rapid, and at
| | |times impassable, flows N.E.,
| | |passes J. Habisa, and then bears
| | |N.
| | |
| | |From this point track runs N.N.E.
| | |over undulating country, and at 3½
J. El Sad | 3½ | 29½ |miles J. El Sad is passed, small
| | |watercourse passed, and from here
| 2 | 31½ |track runs N.E.
| | |
Wadi (?) | 4 | 35½ |At this point a large wadi is
| | |entered bearing S.W., and the
| | |track leads down this N.E to
| | |
_Um Badr_ | 2½ | 38 |Um Badr, which consists of a broad
| | |wadi varying in breadth up to 800
| | |yards, which is enclosed on either
| | |side by hills, and along the bed
| | |of which many hundreds of wells
| | |and waterholes have been dug in
| | |former times. Wells all filled in
| | |by rains; three wells were opened
| | |and 20 feet down no water
| | |obtained, and no sign of water
| | |visible.
| | |
| | |In years when rain is plentiful, I
| | |was informed by Arabs, water is
| | |always obtainable at this depth.
| | |Appears to be an excellent place
| | |for camels.
| | |
| | |No sign of recent habitation; but
| | |on ridges N.E. are the remains of
| | |the scene of the fight between
| | |Dervishes and the Kababish
| | |belonging to Sheikh Saleh Gelta
| | |Kabashi in 1887.
| | |
| | |No signs of any caravans having
| | |passed recently, and I am informed
| | |that none ever do come here owing
| | |to there being no water.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
92.—BARA TO FOGA.
BY CAPTAIN J. R. O’CONNELL, JULY, 1902.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Bara | — | — |Leaving Bara the track goes due W.
| | |over high sandy ridges; heavy
| | |going to a small village Kidaka,
| | |one well.
| | |
Kidaka | 11 | 11 |The track turns a little to the N.
| | |of W., and passing through thick
Um Asal | 4 | 15 |thorny bush leads by a small
| | |village, Um Asal, one well. Ten
_El Saata_ | 10 | 25 |miles further on is Maagla village
| | |called Saata. Wells 112 feet deep,
| | |good water, a good deal of
| | |cultivation.
| | |
_Shireiga_ | 10 | 35 |A good level track passing through
| | |thick bush leading N. of W., after
| | |10 miles reaches the village of
| | |Shireiga (Habbania), one well. Two
| | |miles due W. is a small village
_El Shegel | 2 | 37 |called El Shegel Gedidat, one
Gedidat_ | | |well, a good deal of cultivation.
| | |The track leads N. of W. for 7
| | |miles through thick gum forest,
| | |then ends; one now passes between
| | |three hills called Gedidat, two on
| | |the south and one on the north,
| | |through high grass for 8 miles,
| | |then meeting the track going from
| | |Shireiga to Geleit, and 11 miles
| | |on reaches village of Geleit, near
_El Geleit_ | 22 | 59 |the hill, many wells, little
| | |water.
| | |
_Masrub_ | 17 | 76 |A good track leads N.W. over open
| | |country to Masrub, little water.
| | |
Gilgil | 10 | 86 |A good track leads to Gilgil, a
| | |small village; very little water,
| | |not drinkable.
| | |
Baraeis | 10 | 96 |Due N., no track, to village of
| | |Baraeis, no water. Marching S. of
| | |W., no track, and passing south of
| | |and close to Jebel Asal and over a
| | |rolling plain, bad going. Meika,
| | |goffal, and heglig trees scattered
| | |over the plain. After 40 miles
Hofra | 40 | 136 |reach Hofra. There are three Nuba
| | |villages on the mountain, one
| | |about the centre, and two on the
| | |southern end; no wells, water bad
| | |from pools on north end of hill,
| | |no rain this year, people living
| | |on meika berries, which they grind
| | |and use in lieu of grain. Village
| | |is on top of mountain. Leaving
| | |Hofra and going due W. struck
| | |track near a rock called Mekareik
| | |Abu Gadein, 10 miles out, and
| | |after another 10 miles passed
| | |close to a rock called Sheikh El
| | |Rifa. Three miles further on the
| | |track turns due S., and after 4
| | |miles reaches Jebel Umfara, and 6
| | |miles further on reaches mountains
| | |called Gerawid El Askanut, said to
| | |be half way to Foga. Track now
| | |turns S. for 10 miles, past Jebel
| | |Kanisa on the west and small hills
| | |to the east called Ratak, and
| | |passes 2 miles on through the
| | |hills of Umkosh, and 17 miles on
| | |comes to village of Mina in Jebel
| | |Bishara Taib, and 3 miles on are
| | |the wells and camp; little water
_Foga_ | 65 | 201 |and not good. Foga is a district.
| | |_Vide_ Route 87.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
93.—NAHUD TO EL EDDAIYA AND MUGLAD.
BY COLONEL B. MAHON, C.B., D.S.O., DECEMBER, 1901.
N.B.—_Distances approximate_.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Nahud | — | — |The country round Nahud is sandy
| | |and undulating; about 5 miles all
| | |round is cleared for cultivation.
| | |There are many tebeldi trees which
| | |are used for water tanks. There is
| | |a very good supply of well water,
| | |wells from 30 to 60 feet deep.
| | |Population about 3,500, chiefly
| | |Hamar Arabs. _Vide_ also later
| | |reports.
| | |
_Hella El Sau_| 5 | 5 |Hamar village (Hamed Bey Fetin),
| | |no wells, but good supply of
| | |tebeldi trees. Track is very well
| | |defined, being the main road to
| | |Shakka, &c., country undulating,
| | |heavy going for camels, bush
| | |thick.
| | |
Hella El | 4 | 9 |Hamar (Hamed Bey Fetin), no wells.
Garaui | | |
| | |
_Hella Um | 3 | 12 |Hamar (Abu Dagal) no wells, but
Hashaba_ | | |tebeldi trees and water melons.
| | |
| | |There are no more villages before
| | |El Eddaiya, bush thick, chiefly
| | |ebony, bad shade, track good, but
| | |heavy going for camels and
| | |slightly undulating.
| | |
Fula | 25 | 37 |There is a large fula here, but it
| | |was dry at the beginning of
| | |November, very good shade; is a
| | |good halting place.
| | |
| 10 | 47 |A broad shallow khor or valley,
| | |good shade and some tebeldi trees;
| | |after this you cross an open
| | |plateau into El Eddaiya, there is
| | |good grazing on this plateau and
| | |nice shade, a capital camping
| | |ground.
| | |
_El Eddaiya_ | 5 | 52 |Is a large village or collection
| | |of hellas, and has a mixed
| | |population, Homr (Felaita), Hamar
| | |(Abu Dagal), Bederia and Messeria,
| | |besides many small merchants
| | |(Jaalin, &c.). It is the starting
| | |point for merchants for Bahr El
| | |Arab, Dar Jange, Dar Fertit and
| | |Shakka.
| | |
| | |Camels are very little used S. of
| | |this.
| | |
| | |Water very plentiful and good
| | |wells from 8 to 30 feet deep;
| | |there are remains of many old
| | |gardens, and even now they
| | |cultivate onions and other
| | |vegetables.
| | |
| | |There is a small Government post
| | |held by fifty Bashibazuks.
| | |
Khor Atrun | 3½ | 55½ |Very good shade, no water but
| | |after kharif (rainy season) many
| | |fulas. The track is undulating and
| | |sandy, but broad and well defined.
| | |
_Abu Asha_ and| 4 | 59½ |Both Bederia hellas, no wells, but
Walad El Seluk| | |tebeldi trees and water melons.
| | |
_Mumu_ | 7½ | 67 |This is a district; many hellas,
| | |Homr (Felaita), Sheikh Hamed
| | |Yassin, several fulas but all dry
| | |by middle of November. No wells,
| | |some tebeldi trees, much
| | |cultivation. After the harvest is
| | |gathered and when the water in
| | |tebeldi trees is exhausted, the
| | |people move near to El Eddaiya.
| | |There are no hellas between here
| | |and Muglad, it is more or less
| | |forest.
| | |
| 6 | 73 |At this point the road branches;
| | |the main road goes on to Shakka,
| | |but take left-hand one S.S.E. to
| | |Um Hagar if you want water.
| | |
_Um Hagar_ | 8 | 81 |There are here a succession of
| | |rocky basins. All had some water,
| 1 | 82 |the one furthest S. after the
| | |rains must have been a
| | |considerable lake, and some years
| | |contains water during the whole
| | |year, but, I think, will be dry by
| | |end of December this year.
| | |
| | |The track, now very indistinct,
| | |runs W.S.W. for 1½ miles, until it
| | |rejoins main road which we left at
| | |mile 73. Country continues the
| 1½ | 83½ |same until about the 86th mile,
| | |when it becomes flat and clay
| | |soil; track good and hard going,
| | |but all forest.
| | |
Um Sidr | 14½ | 98 |Large fula. Road branches at Um
| | |Sidr; main road to Shakka S.S.W.
| | |is much best and shorter, I took
| | |the one to Um Battu, but returned
| | |by main road. Gullum now becomes
| | |common.
| | |
_Um Battu_ | 8 | 106 |Three small wells in dry bed of
| | |fula, 8 feet deep. These wells
| | |could easily be improved, but are
| | |not now to be depended on after
| | |15th December. This, like all the
| | |following places, was once a
| | |village. Country all bush and
| | |very little shade except at these
| | |fulas, where there are splendid
| | |ardeib trees.
| | |
Um Gamadi | 15 | 121 |A dry fula and was an old village.
| | |
Um Gamadi | 3 | 124 |Also called Um Gamadi.
| | |
Um Kantor | 6 | 130 |Dry fula, there was an old village
| | |here at some time.
| | |
Um Gedir | 11½ | 141½ |Dry fula; very fine ardeib trees
| | |here.
| | |
Um Malis | 4½ | 146 |Dry fula, same as above.
| | |
Khor El Heggis| 2 | 148 |Northern boundary of Muglad
| | |district; very small khor, but
| | |thickly wooded.
| | |
| 1 | 149 |Road branches, take right-hand one
| | |S.S.W., the other (main track)
| | |S.S.E. is one of the many tracks
| | |to the Bahr El Arab.
| | |
Um Shanga | 1 | 150 |There is water here in khor and
| | |some tebeldi trees (but not filled
| | |with water), but this year water
| | |would be dry by end of December.
| | |
| 3½ | 153½ |No track for 3½ miles W. through
| | |very bushy country, then strike
Hella Ereiga | 1½ | 155 |path N.N.W. to Hella Ereiga. From
| | |here you strike a well-defined
| | |path to Moghrabi.
| | |
| 4 | 159 |Track branches S.W., main track S.
| | |to Jange, take right-hand one S.W.
| | |
Hella Moghrabi| 5 | 164 |This is where Ali Gula, Nazir of
| | |the Homr, lives.
| | |
_Um Moghrabi_ | 2½ | 166½ |Large fula, plenty of water.
| | |
_Um Uerst_ | 2½ | 169 |Large fula and lots of good water.
| | |But none of these fulas (or
| | |rahads, as they call them) can be
| | |relied on after end of December.
| | |
| | |There is another road from El
| | |Eddaiya further W., it is no
| | |longer, but goes through very
| | |thick forest, impassable for
| | |camels, but there are some wells
| | |on this road, and it is used in
| | |the dry weather.
| | |
Muglad | — | — |Is a district about 50 miles
| | |square, two days easy from Shakka
| | |and two days from Bahr El Arab.
| | |
| | |There are many feriks, but no
| | |permanent villages; the people all
| | |go to Bahr El Arab as soon as the
| | |water gets scarce and the harvest
| | |is collected. They store grain on
| | |the tops of trees for consumption
| | |and seed when they return in the
| | |rainy season. Population all Homr
| | |(Ageira), there are many Rizeigat
| | |and a few Maalia when I was there,
| | |but they have returned to Shakka.
| | |There is lots of gum in the
| | |district, but they do not collect
| | |it. Wells can be made at 10 feet,
| | |but they make none. I only saw one
| | |well (at Um Ardeib). The people
| | |are lazy and poor, but they have
| | |large herds of cattle and sheep.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
94—FOGA TO EL EDDAIYA, _viâ_ J. KAJA SERRUG, DAMJAMAD, AND
KORDOFAN-DARFUR.
BY CAPTAIN B. C. CARTER, JANUARY, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Foga | — | — |_Vide_ Route 28.
| | |
J. Kajaserrug | — | — |This hill is now deserted. There
| | |is a broad track running from J.
| | |El Hella (Darfur), _viâ_ J.
| | |Adashir into Kaja. This was
| | |chiefly used, I think, for looted
| | |cattle. J. Zerga holds water in
| | |the rocks, and there is a khor
| | |running, roughly, E. and W., with
| | |tebeldi trees, which were filled
| | |in the rains. They were still full
| | |in January. J. Zumkhor has traces
| | |of a wall and brick houses, said
| | |to have been built by the Fungs.
| | |Also traces of old wells in the
| | |wadi. The bricks are good and
| | |well-burnt. There are similar
| | |buildings on J. Sukunja, W. of
| | |Kaja, and also on J. Bishara Taib,
| | |E. of Foga.
| | |
J. Zerga Mima | 9 | 9 |These villages are built on a bare
| | |sandy ridge and grow dukhn only.
Gilatt | 4 | 13 |Two miles from Gamania the path
| | |joins road from Foga to Damjamad,
Gamania | 3 | 16 |which latter is a district,
| | |including 4 villages of the same
| | |name. These people go to Um Shanga
| | |when the water supply fails.
| | |
_Damjamad_ | 14 | 30 |A fair path, after passing small
| | |village of Dunur, goes through
| | |some thick thorn, and in about 8
| | |miles descends into Wadi Zernak.
_Zernak_ | 15 | 45 |This wadi is full of tebeldi trees
| | |and may be noted as a base in case
| | |of trouble with Darfur. The trees
| | |would hold a very large amount of
| | |water, but, of course, would have
| | |to be filled by hand at the proper
| | |time.
| | |
Hemir Sibil | 15½ | 60½ |Six miles from Zernak the road
| | |quits the tebeldi forest and goes
| | |over undulating ridges to Hemir
| | |Sibil, which depends entirely on
| | |melons. There is a good deal of
| | |cultivation.
| | |
Tom Wad | 11½ | 72 |A small village dependent chiefly
| | |on melons.
| | |
Zarug Dagmar | 7½ | 79½ |Fair sized village growing a good
| | |supply of dukhn.
| | |
Lingu | 9½ | 89 |This district is known as Zalatta,
| | |from a rock which holds rain
| | |water.
| | |
Edam | 3 | 92 |Small village.
| | |
Gurab | 7½ | 99½ |Small village, deserted early, as
| | |melons were scarce. Ridges end and
| | |country becomes flat with trees
| | |and grass.
| | |
Um Reida | 8½ | 108 |Large village with many tebeldis
| | |and melons enough to last till
| | |next rains. This is in district
| | |called Ghabeish.
| | |
| | |Good track all the way to El
| | |Odaiya.
| | |
Gad el Habub | 8½ | 116½ |Small Hamar village. Few tebeldi
| | |trees.
| | |
Wad Domai | 3½ | 120 |Village.
| | |
Abd el Hai | 3½ | 123½ | „
| | |
_Sharafa_ | 3½ | 127 |Large Gowama village. Water from
| | |tebeldis and from Ogr; a “Hafir”
| | |or pond 50 yards in diameter, 8 to
| | |10 feet deep, 2 miles south. It
| | |holds water until about January.
| | |
| | |There is no bad bush from here to
| | |El Eddaiya. Good going.
| | |
| | |Sharafa belongs to Kordofan, El
| | |Ogr to Darfur.
| | |
Gabralla | 9 | 138 |Small village of people from
| | |Bornu.
| | |
Gariban | 6 | 144 |Small Hamar village. Main roads
| | |from Taweisha and Shakka come in
| | |here.
| | |
Um Sedeir | 7½ | 151½ | }
| | | }
Wad Dunga | 7 | 158½ | }
| | | }
Tamba | 9½ | 168 | } All small Hamar villages.
| | | }
Sabi | 12 | 180 | }
| | | }
Aris | 7½ | 187½ | }
| | |
Wad Dau el | 5 | 192½ |
Beit | | |
| | |
_El Eddaiya_ | 12 | 204½ |_Vide_ previous routes.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
95.—EL OBEID TO NAHUD (DIRECT ROAD).
BY CAPTAIN E. G. MEYRICKE, R.E., NOVEMBER, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | — | — |The road goes off almost due W.,
| | |and runs over an undulating plain,
| | |at first open and covered with
| | |dura cultivation, and then covered
| | |with small and thorny shrubs.
| | |There are several villages to
| | |right and left of road. Village
| | |here consisting of about 60 tukls.
| | |From here the road goes straight
_Um Doma_ | 12 | 12 |to Jebel Abu Sinun. The water here
| | |is obtained from tebeldi trees,
| | |and there are some large fulas
| | |some distance away, one of which
| | |was not dry in December, although
| | |there had been little rain (1903).
| | |Four miles further on one arrives
| | |at a large fula; it contained no
| | |water in December. This road now
| | |passes El Abiad, where water is
| | |obtained from a few tebeldis and
| | |from distant fulas.
| | |
_Monzuka_ | 8¾ | 20¾ |Monzuka is reached, a small
| | |village, water obtained from
| | |tebeldi trees in small quantities,
| | |and about 2 miles further on we
| | |came to the remains of a village
| | |which was formerly called Um
| | |Banda. The nature of the country,
| | |throughout undulating, is a sandy
| | |plain covered with thorny bushes
_Um Sumaima_ | 21¼ | 42 |(not dense) and a few trees, and
| | |it remains so until at mile 42 one
| | |arrives at Um Sumaima, where there
| | |are tukls and people.
| | |
| | |There are many fulas on both sides
| | |of Um Sumaima. The tebeldi trees
| | |give only a very limited supply of
| | |water, but I was told there was a
| | |village named Nethrea not far off
| | |in a southerly direction, where
| | |there was more than one well.
| | |After leaving Um Sumaima the road
| | |passes many fulas and khors, now
| | |quite dry. The bush becomes a
| | |little thicker and there are many
| | |more trees, but there is no
| | |difficulty in clearing. About 7½
| | |miles from Um Sumaima you see
| | |traces of the old telegraph line
| | |in the shape of the bases of iron
| | |poles, one or two of which are
| | |still standing, but the majority
| | |are lying along the road. Trees
| | |are now numerous, and one reaches
| | |Dudia at mile 58. There are many
| | |tebeldi trees here, but there is
Dudia | 16 | 58 |no one living here now.
| | |
Huoi | 13¼ | 71¼ |The trees are more numerous and
| | |the bush thicker here. Huoi like
| | |Dudia has many tebeldi trees, and
| | |there is a big fula, but there was
| | |no water in December. There is no
| | |village here now and no people.
| | |
_Merkab_ | 22 | 93¼ |Continuing, the road passes
| | |Merkab, a village started this
| | |year (1903). Here there are many
| | |tebeldi trees and about 10 tukls.
| | |Chickens may be obtained here, but
| | |only, say, two at a time. The road
| | |here runs through a network of
| | |thorny, though small, trees, a
| | |good bit higher than a man on a
| | |camel, and it would be unpleasant
| | |travelling by night.
| | |
Manwissa | 9 | 102¼ |The thorny trees end before
| | |arrival at Manwissa, where there
| | |is a village, and the country is
| | |now covered with scattered trees
| | |and thin bush.
| | |
_Um Farigh_ | 5½ | 107¾ |Manwissa, Um Farigh, and Goda are
| | |in a district called Sheikh El
_Goda_ | 2½ | 110¼ |Dud. All round here there are
| | |dukhn crops; water is obtained
| | |from tebeldi trees. These villages
| | |are small ones. Goda contains
Sudda | 4 | 114¼ |about 60 tukls, while 4 miles from
| | |Goda, Sudda, a small village, is
| | |reached, the face of the country
| | |remaining unchanged.
| | |
Abu Dagal | 1 | 115¼ |Abu Dagal is reached shortly
| | |afterwards, and after ascending an
| | |elevation on which the trees are
| | |much more numerous, the road
_Nahud_ | 15½ | 130¾ |descends to Nahud. Water is
| | |obtained from wells, but some of
| | |it has very acid properties. This
| | |town is about the same size and of
| | |the same population as El Obeid.
| | |The country all round is open.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
96.—EL OBEID TO NAHUD, _viâ_ ABU ZABBAT.
BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, APRIL AND OCTOBER, 1900, AND CAPTAIN
C. H. TOWNSEND, 1901 AND 1902.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | — | — |The S.W. road is taken. Good
| | |track, little bush. Plenty of
| | |grazing. Country slightly
| | |undulating. Sandy soil.
| | |
Abu Haraz | 25 | 25 |Small village. Wells in the khor.
| | |Pools of water last till end of
| | |October. There are some in the old
| | |town and some in the khor. Latter
| | |are best. Good shade. Leaving the
| | |village the bush becomes thicker,
| | |but there is a good track.
| | |
_Um Geiga_ | 7 | 32 |One bad well situated on the side
| | |of a wide khor. A mile down this
| | |khor is Um Gurus. Here there are
| | |three wells which generally
| | |contain enough water for 30
| | |camels. The sand in the khor is
| | |very soft. Leaving Um Geiga the
| | |track ascends at first. Bush
| | |thick, many tebeldi trees about.
| | |
Khor Sulfan | 10 | 42 |A wide shallow khor. Bush very
| | |thick. This khor should be crossed
| | |by daylight if possible. The track
| | |now becomes good, and the bush,
| | |though thick, does not interfere
| | |with transport.
| | |
El Saata | 18½ | 60½ |A ruined Hamar village. Many
| | |tebeldis about, some of which have
| | |been used for storing water. Old
| | |wells.
| | |
| | |The country now becomes nearly
| | |level, and is covered with ebony
| | |trees. Good shade when in leaf,
| | |but none in the hot weather. White
| | |ants swarm.
| | |
_Um Galb_ | 22 | 82½ |A small village on the edge of a
| | |swamp. The village and wells are 1
| | |mile to the S. of the road. Water
| | |plentiful. The track now passes
| | |along a ridge of red sand.
| | |
_Abu Zabbat_ | 6 | 88½ |A Hamar and Bederia village on the
| | |sandy hill. To the S. is a large
| | |swamp in which are the wells, 25
| | |to 30 feet deep. Water usually
| | |plentiful. Much dura cultivation.
| | |Small suk. Many cattle, sheep, and
| | |goats. Good rest house.
| | |
| | |It is very difficult to find one’s
| | |way out of the village, and a
| | |local guide should be taken until
| | |the main road is reached, as
| | |tracks lead in all directions. The
| | |track bears N.W.
| | |
Um Dugran | 5 | 93½ |A small village; much cultivation
| | |about, chiefly dukhn. The track
| | |crosses several khors, but none
| | |are bad.
| | |
J. Howawag | 32 | 125½ |A low hill on the S. side of the
| | |road.
| | |
Um Regulti | 6 | 131½ |A small Hamar village, only
| | |occupied during the rains. No
| | |well. There is a good deal of
| | |hashab bush about. Further on arad
| | |trees are met, they have no
| | |thorns.
| | |
Um Genglit | 8 | 139½ |A similar village to Um Regulti.
| | |
J. Wad Abu | 4 | 143½ |A few low hills to the N. of the
Agala | | |track.
| | |
_Nahud_ | 10½ | 154 |For description, _see_ Routes 19,
| | |30, and Vol. I, Chap. VIII.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
97.—EL OBEID TO EL EDDAIYA, _viâ_ SUNGIKAI.
BY CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, APRIL, 1900; AND CAPTAIN C. H. TOWNSEND,
E. SURREY REGIMENT, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | — | — |For route El Obeid to Sungikai,
| | |_vide_ Route 17.
| | |
_Sungikai_ | 72 | 72 |The track, which is good, leaves
| | |the wells in a south-westerly
| | |direction. The country is fairly
| | |level, but much cut up by khors.
| | |Low rocky hills are seen on all
| | |sides. The bush on both sides is
| | |thick, but horses can move without
| | |much difficulty. Many of the
| | |hills, now deserted, show signs of
| | |former Nuba occupants.
| | |
_J. Kudr_ | 16½ | 88½ |A Nuba village on the hill. Water
| | |on the hill and in a well at the
| | |foot. The track now winds between
| | |many hills.
| | |
_J. Saboi_ | 7½ | 96 |Nearly due W. of J. Kudr. A Nuba
| | |village on the hill. Three wells
| | |and some pools. No supplies were
| | |obtainable. The bush becomes thick
| | |in places.
| | |
_J. Kasha_ | 14 | 110 |Large Nuba village on the hill. A
| | |plentiful supply of indifferent
| | |water from wells, about one mile
| | |from the village. The inhabitants
| | |are fairly well off and some of
| | |them go to the suk at Abu Zabbat.
| | |The men carry spears and rifles;
| | |they have a number of the latter.
| | |
_J. Shifr_ | 6½ | 116½ |A Nuba hill. Water plentiful in
| | |wells in the khor on the N. side
| | |of hill, and has much improved.
| | |Good camp. The bush continues bad
| | |all the way to Kubgr.
| | |
_El Sinut_ | 21 | 137½ |A depression of black soil. On the
| | |borders are many Messeria camps.
| | |In the rains the depression is a
| | |swamp, covered with long grass and
| | |ambach. Sunt trees abound. There
| | |are many wells about 40 feet deep,
| | |which are used in summer. There is
| | |a small market. During the rains
| | |the people wander off to places
| | |where there are rain pools and
| | |cultivate.
| | |
_El Seneita_ | 9 | 146½ |The track runs S.W., leaving the
| | |village to the N., and a swamp,
| | |similar to El Sinut, containing
| | |the wells, to the S. The village
| | |is on high ground and on sandy
| | |soil. Track leads S.S.W. through
| | |very thick bush.
| | |
_Toto_ | 17½ | 164 |A swamp, similar to El Sinut. Many
| | |wells 30 to 40 feet deep, giving a
| | |plentiful supply of water. Good
| | |shade, some gullum. Many Messeria
| | |camps about. Bush thick and the
| | |cotton soil much cracked in
| | |places. The track now turns N.W.
| | |for two miles and then W. Some
| | |cultivation is passed belonging to
| | |a small Messeria village, Ardeb by
| | |name, which lies to the N. of the
| | |track.
| | |
_J. Kubgr_ | 17 | 181 |There are many wells on the N.
| | |side of the hill, though only two
| | |on the S. side. From here the
| | |following jebels are visible, they
| | |are all close and under Mek Abu
| | |Dugal of Kubgr:—J. Shenshal, J.
| | |Abu Gerein, J. Umbosha, and J.
| | |Seigo. To the N. of the hill, and
| | |about two miles from it, is a Beni
| | |Fadl village named Shallo. The
| | |people drink from J. Kubgr. There
| | |is a direct road from Kubgr, _viâ_
| | |Shallo, to Nahud.
| | |
_El Eddaiya_ | 30 | 211 |A collection of villages, all
| | |under an Omda, Safi Negm El Din,
| | |by name. The main village, which
| | |is the largest, is close to the
| | |wells, which are numerous and lie
| | |in a depression, and give a
| | |plentiful supply of water at a
| | |depth of from 10 to 30 feet, small
| | |hand-wheels being used to draw it
| | |up. There are many good gardens
| | |here and, at certain seasons, a
| | |plentiful supply of vegetables is
| | |obtainable. The population is very
| | |mixed, there being Homr, Hamar,
| | |Messeria, Bederia, also some
| | |Dongolawis and Jaalin. The Homr
| | |belong chiefly to the Felaita
| | |section, and they have several
| | |villages, the chief of these being
| | |Mumu, about 12 miles W. of El
| | |Eddaiya. There is a Bashibazuk
| | |post of 50 men here, and a small
| | |market. This is the starting point
| | |for the Bahr El Arab, Dar Jangé,
| | |Dar Fertit, and Shakka. Traders
| | |going S. and W. from here proceed
| | |on donkeys and cattle, camels
| | |being little used.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
98.—EL OBEID TO KERAIA (J. TAGALE), _viâ_ JEBEL DAIER.
BY CAPTAIN J. R. O’CONNELL, THE KING’S SHROPSHIRE LIGHT
INFANTRY, AND CAPTAIN W. LLOYD, THE SCOTTISH RIFLES, JANUARY, 1900;
WITH ADDITIONS FROM EL KAIMAKAM J. BUTLER BEY’S REPORTS IN 1901.
There is no difficulty with regard to grazing or firewood on this
road, but camels cannot be watered between El Obeid and El Rahad. The
country S. of El Rahad is practically impassable to camels as soon
as the rains commence.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | — | — |Leaving the Mudiria, there is a
| | |good track over level ground to
| | |the S. end of J. Deigo. Bush never
| | |thick, but after the rains the
| | |going is bad in places.
| | |
J. Deigo | 8 | 8 |Small fula at S. end. Water does
| | |not last after November. Track now
| | |turns nearly S. and bush becomes
| | |thicker. Several large deep khors.
| | |J. Kordofan on W. of track. There
| | |is a pool on top of northern peak
| | |which lasts till April (_i.e._, in
| | |1901).
| | |
J. El Sofaia | 10 | 18 |Left to E. of track; bush bad and
| | |continuous, so to El Rahad.
| | |
_J. Um | 2 | 20 |On W. of track. There is a crack
Dubabat_ or | | |in the rock near the road which
_El Ein_ | | |always contains water, said to
| | |come from a spring, but by the hot
| | |weather water becomes somewhat
| | |foul. The country is flat, bush
| | |thick, and there are several deep
| | |khors.
| | |
Arab cemetery | 12 | 32 |By the side of a khor.
| | |
Khor Um | 10 | 42 |A broad, shallow khor, which must
Dagergur | | |be very swampy in the rains.
| | |
_El Rahad_ | 5½ | 47½ |Near the lake the road divides in
| | |two. That to the E. leads to the
| | |villages of Sheikh Adam Maznuk, a
| | |Gowama. The villages are large and
| | |have a small market. The lake is
| | |about 2 miles wide and 5 miles
| | |long. When it is dry (as it was in
| | |January, 1900) wells are dug in
| | |the bottom.
| | |
Regela | 5 | 47 |The road to the W. is the main
| | |track and passes through Regela,
| | |and near the remains of one of
| | |Hick’s forts. Several large khors
| | |are crossed.
| | |
_Khor Abu | 9½ | 56½ |Is 50 feet wide and 2 feet deep,
Habl_ | | |but the banks are flooded in the
| | |rains, and it is said to be
| | |impassable at times.
| | |
_Egeria_ (in | 4 | 60½ |A Dabab village, situated in a
Jebel Daier) | | |khor in J. Daier. The entrance
| | |closed by high stone walls—now
| | |broken—near the khor. Three
| | |hellas, and a small market. Wells
| | |in the khor, inside the wall.
| | |Plenty of water.
| | |
| | |Leaving the village the track
| | |crosses several khors; bush thick
| | |and between high hills.
| | |
_Kitra_ | 4 | 64½ |A small village buried in the
| | |hills. The entrance is between
| | |rocks hardly wide enough for a
| | |loaded camel. Gowamas and Nubas.
| | |Wells inside the village.
| | |Cultivation: dura on plain
| | |outside.
| | |
| | |Moving near the foot of the hills
| | |the bush continues thick.
| | |
_Sitra_ | 5½ | 70 |A village built on the side of the
| | |hills. Good wells with more than
| | |enough water for 100 camels. J.
| | |Daier is now left, and the track
| | |bears E.S.E. over level country,
| | |much cut up by khors, many of
| | |which are 10 feet deep. The bush
| | |is very thick in places. J. Tagale
| | |is seen ahead.
| | |
_Kodi_ | 24½ | 94½ |After crossing several low hills
| | |and some cultivation, Kodi is
| | |reached. The village is on the top
| | |of a hill which commands an
| | |excellent view in all directions.
| | |The wells are in a khor S. of the
| | |village, but large parties of
| | |animals have to go to a pool 5
| | |miles S. W., where 100 camels
| | |watered without any effect on the
| | |supply. The track there is very
| | |bad, being over a rocky path
| | |through bush.
| | |
| | |The road continues to be much
| | |broken by khors. It goes between
| | |high hills and through bad bush,
| | |and 9 miles on becomes so bad that
| | |it is necessary to dismount and
| | |lead the camels for ½ mile.
| | |
_Morat_ | 16 | 110½ |A small Nuba village buried in the
| | |hills. One bad well with little
| | |water. J. Abu Dom is seen to the
| | |E.
| | |
| | |Path crosses many khors and
| | |wanders about through thick bush;
| | |Senadre and Julia are left to the
| | |W. Khor Julia, 20 feet deep, with
| | |steep banks, has to be crossed.
| | |
Ruri | 11 | 121½ |The track now ascends some 200
| | |feet over sheet rock and then
| | |descends among boulders. This took
| | |200 camels an hour and a half to
| | |cross.
| | |
Duris | 1 | 122½ |A small hella on the side of the
| | |hill.
| | |
| | |On descending on to the plain the
| | |track passes over level country
| | |covered with thick bush. It bears
| | |almost due S., and suddenly turns
| | |W. into a large cove, the entrance
| | |to which is between narrow rocks.
| | |There is a good camping ground
| | |inside and fair wells. The village
_Keraia_ (J. | 2½ | 125 |and market is up the hill. Keraia
Tagale) | | |is a large place. Mek Geili has a
| | |large and well-built house there.
| | |There are also springs of water
| | |near the top of the hill. The
| | |camels, however, had to be sent to
| | |some wells in a big khor 7 miles
| | |further S., as these springs only
| | |give enough water for the
| | |inhabitants.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
99.—KERAIA TO RASHAD, AND THENCE TO J. GEDIR.
AS FAR AS RASHAD, BY CAPTAIN J. R. O’CONNELL AND CAPTAIN W. LLOYD,
JANUARY, 1900; REMAINDER BY EL KAIMAKAM J. BUTLER BEY, MARCH, 1902.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Keraia_ (J. | — | — |Leaving the wells at the bottom of
Tagale) | | |the hill the road turns south
| | |along the foot of the hills,
| | |crossing many small khors flowing
| | |westwards. Much dura cultivation
| | |seen near.
| | |
_Khor_ | 6 | 6 |A large khor, 50 yards wide,
| | |coming out of the hills and
| | |turning north-east. A mile up this
| | |khor are several good wells.
| | |Watered 250 camels there.
| | |
| | |The road now enters a narrow
| | |valley; thick jungle for 3 miles,
| | |and then ascends a steep hill.
| | |Camels have to be led. Hill
| | |terraced for cultivation; now
| | |deserted (1900); signs of
| | |elephant. Ground stony in places.
| | |Many khors, but not difficult to
| | |cross. High trees shut out all
| | |view. Nine miles from the khor
| | |descends a hill, and the road
| | |crosses a series of ridges and
| | |khors. Much bush.
| | |
Khor El Fedala| 13 | 19 |A deep khor. Camel corps had to
| | |dismount. Ridges and khor
| | |continue, but track improves.
| | |
_Mernia_ | 6 | 25 |Ruined village. Two wells, good
| | |water. Jebel of same name near.
| | |Road passes between J. Mernia and
| | |J. Abu Shok on to a level plain.
| | |J. Rashad seen due west.
| | |
_Rashad_ | 6 | 31 |Large Nuba village in a valley;
| | |both ends closed by strong
| | |sangars. Water quite near the
| | |surface in January, 1900, but
| | |dirty; watered 200 camels. In
| | |February, 1902, water was very
| | |foul. Good shade and grazing. Road
| | |turns south; rocky in places.
| | |
_J. Tendik_ | 15 | 46 |Head-quarters of District. Nubas.
| | |Well at foot of hill, road to east
| | |of jebel. Fair track.
| | |
J. Turum | 9½ | 55½ |Track crosses jebel; very bad
| | |going. Well. Nubas and Kenana
| | |Arabs. Fair going. Four or five
| | |miles on a large forest of deleib
| | |palms is entered and continues to
| | |Gurun.
| | |
_J. Gurun_ | 20 | 75½ |Well and village of Kenana Arabs.
| | |Track passes by many disused
| | |wells. Very stony in places.
| | |
Khor Wad el | 25 | 100½ |Flows south-east. Good track to
Hileisa | | |village north-west of J. Gedir,
| | |leaving J. Girada, inhabited by
| | |Kenana Arabs, to the east. Then
| | |very bad track to Mek Bosh’s
| | |village, south of J. Gedir. Two
| | |wells.
| | |
_J. Gedir_ | 26 | 126½ |Village protected by sangars.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
From Rashad to J. Gedir there is nowhere enough water for 200 camels.
100.—KAKA (KARWA) TO J. GEDIR.
BY COLONEL B. MAHON BEY, D.S.O., 8TH HUSSARS, OCTOBER, 1899.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Karwa_ | — | — |Site of camp on left bank White
| | |Nile just S. of Kaka. Good camping
| | |ground S.E. of village.
| | |
| | |The track leaves the river and
| | |runs practically W.N.W., but winds
| | |greatly through trees, bush,
| | |scrub, and high grass, which
| | |requires clearing for camel
| | |transport or guns.
| | |
| 6½ | 6½ |Track continues W.N.W. over a very
| | |extensive shadeless plain, covered
| | |with grass 3½ to 5 feet high, but
| | |not thick. Until beaten down or
| | |burnt, this grass makes marching
| | |difficult for infantry.
| | |
Domat, or | 8 | 14½ |There has been a lot of water at
Domaia, or El | | |Domat, but it is now (Oct.)
Zeif | | |practically dried up.
| | |
| | |At Domat there are two or three
| | |groups of dom palms, which show up
| | |well and can be seen for a long
| | |distance. From here the hills of
| | |Kau and Niaro can be seen bearing
| | |about 275° magnetic.
| | |
| | |From Domat, for the next 6¾ miles,
| | |there is no track, but, if from
| | |the largest group of dom palms on
| | |left of track you march due W.
| | |magnetic after going about 2
| | |miles, a thick clump of dark green
| | |bush is seen on the skyline at
| | |about 3½ miles distant, and on the
| | |same bearing. A few degrees to the
| | |right of the clump, the hill of
| | |Fungor can be seen from the same
| | |point.
| | |
Mohabia or | 5¾ | 20¼ |Beyond Mohabia, the above-
Hobobia | | |mentioned clump of bush, J. Fungor
| | |cannot be seen again until you
| | |arrive within about 2 miles from
| | |it, except from one point, viz.:
| | |Sahab.
| | |
| | |From Domat to the commencement of
| | |the forest a plain is crossed
| | |covered with grass from 3 to 5
| | |feet high. From Mohabia on, the
| | |track is again visible through
| | |grass, as before.
| | |
| | |At 22¾ miles the edge of the
| | |forest is reached. Track winds
| | |through forest and undergrowth,
| | |the latter not very thick. Timber
| | |much injured by fire. No good
| | |shade.
| | |
Sahab | 4½ | 24¾ |There was water till recently
| | |here; now (Oct.) dried up. J.
| | |Fungor visible bearing 275°
| | |magnetic.
| | |
| | |Track through forest as before.
| | |
_Safa, or | 8¾ | 33½ |Fine trees giving excellent shade
Sufa_ | | |at Safa. Two pools of water in
| | |sandstone rocks; one is 27 yards
| | |long by 16 yards wide, and 9
| | |inches deep, the other, circular,
| | |20 yards in diameter, and 9 inches
| | |deep. If the water remains as at
| | |present, enough to water all our
| | |animals.
| | |
| | |Path continues distinctly marked
| | |and through forest without much
| | |undergrowth except where one or
| | |two grassy khors are crossed. Very
| | |good ground for marching.
| | |
| | |Within 1 mile of Fungor, country
| | |has been cleared for cultivation,
| | |and there is some dura and high
| | |grass.
| | |
_J. Fungor_ | 12 | 45½ |Very good camping ground N.E. of
| | |the centre hill and close to the
| | |water.
| | |
| | |Several large tanks of good water
| | |were found besides several smaller
| | |ones of still better water amongst
| | |the rocks on the hill side. With
| | |the assistance of a heavy
| | |thunderstorm the water supply was
| | |ample for two battalions, 500
| | |cavalry, and some Camel Corps and
| | |transport for 3 or 4 days in
| | |October, 1899. In fact no
| | |impression was made on it.
| | |
| | |The village is situated on the E.
| | |side of the central hill, which is
| | |about 350 feet high. The hill is
| | |very steep and difficult to ascend
| | |with boots. The inhabitants are
| | |almost all Nubas. Mek’s name
| | |Khalil. There are also some Aulad
| | |Hameid under Sheikh Idris.
| | |
| | |For the first 2 miles the path
| | |winds through high grass and very
| | |thick bush, crossing one small
| | |khor, containing water from
| | |previous night’s rain. The bush is
| | |of low sunt, and was evidently
| | |once a clearing.
| | |
| 2 | 47½ |The path passes to the right of
| | |some low rocky hills, after which
| | |the forest opens out, and the
| | |trees, chiefly heglig and acacia,
| | |are bigger. The soil is sandy,
| | |grass very low, and little
| | |undergrowth.
| | |
| 2½ | 50 |At about 4½ miles the track is
| | |opposite the S.E. end of the Kau
| | |range, which is a ½ mile on the
| | |right. Country fairly open; going
| | |very good.
| | |
_Kau_ | 2½ | 52½ |The village of Kau is on the W.
| | |slope of J. Kau. It contains about
| | |500 inhabitants. Nubawi blacks;
| | |neither men nor women are clothed.
| | |Most of the houses are built high
| | |up amongst the rocks. Water
| | |obtainable from crevices on the
| | |rocky hillside. A good many dom
| | |palms near the village. A space of
| | |about 10 feddans to W. of hill was
| | |formerly cleared, but is now
| | |overgrown with small dom palms,
| | |about 4 feet high. After leaving
| | |Kau, the track winds through open
| | |forest, the trees improve in size,
| | |and more tropical plants are seen.
| | |Large numbers of bamboos, of
| | |apparently very good quality, grow
| | |in clusters along the small khors.
| | |Soil light and sandy.
| | |
| 5¾ | 58¼ |Nearly 6 miles from Kau the soil
| | |becomes heavy clay, and the grass
| | |is higher. The path winds a good
| | |deal, and is full of holes caused
| | |by subsidence after rain. It would
| | |be necessary to clear a track for
| | |guns or transport for the next 1¼
| | |miles, after which the path
| | |improves and the going is sounder.
| | |
_Shag el | 3¼ | 61½ |Here there are two large rocks;
Hagar_ | | |the higher, about 50 feet in
| | |height, commands a good view; the
| | |lower, about 12 feet high,
| | |contains a large supply of water
| | |in four large and several small
| | |natural tanks, three of these are
| | |each about 60 feet long and 6 feet
| | |to 10 feet wide, and vary in depth
| | |from 2 feet to 4 feet. The fourth
| | |is 150 feet long and 9 feet wide,
| | |and from 4 feet to 6 feet deep.
| | |The water is excellent; 550 men
| | |and 420 horses were watered twice
| | |in 36 hours at these tanks and
| | |made little apparent difference in
| | |the supply. As there is no
| | |catchment area, except the surface
| | |of the rock, it looks as if the
| | |tanks were fed by springs. Should
| | |the source of supply be capable of
| | |giving more water, the amount
| | |retained could be easily increased
| | |by building a small dam across the
| | |end of the large tank, which would
| | |increase the depth to 9 feet. One
| | |of the other tanks could be
| | |similarly treated, but the result
| | |would not be so great. Horses must
| | |be watered from buckets.
| | |
| | |Country around is covered with
| | |fairly open forest of good-sized
| | |trees, with a little undergrowth.
| | |No bamboos were noticed after
| | |this.
| | |
| | |For about 3 miles the track
| | |continues through forest. At 19
| | |miles it reaches a large open
| | |glade about 2 miles wide, with
| | |very few trees, and with grass 3½
| | |feet high. It is apparently a
| | |clearing made at some time by
| | |fire. Track then continues through
| | |open forest of very fine trees,
| | |many of which are tabeldi
| | |(Adansonia).
| | |
Khor Goz El | 7¼ | 68¾ |On this occasion, owing to the
Tabeldi | | |recent rain, there was sufficient
| | |water in this khor to water the
| | |men and horses, but water cannot
| | |be counted on. Country remains
| | |open; trees scattered, but
| | |sufficient for shade. Grass 5 feet
| | |to 8 feet high.
| | |
Khor El Waja | 4¾ | 73½ |This is a grassy khor, about ¼
| | |mile wide, quite dry, but said to
| | |hold water during rains. It is
| | |intersected by narrow water
| | |channels, 3 feet to 6 feet deep.
| | |The khor, whose soil is black
| | |clay, would be a serious obstacle
| | |to troops in the rainy season, and
| | |would, I think, be impassable for
| | |guns and transport while in flood.
| | |
Khor Melisa | 1 | 74½ |This is a sandy khor about 17
| | |yards wide, with steep banks 10
| | |feet to 14 feet deep, said to come
| | |from J. Girada. In the rains it
| | |must be a considerable obstacle.
| | |The country continues open, but
| | |with grass from 6 feet to 8 feet
| | |high, to within 2¾ miles of Gedir,
| | |when a belt of thick acacia and
| | |kittr scrub, 1¾ miles in width, is
| | |crossed. For guns or pack animals,
| | |it would be necessary to clear a
| | |path through this belt.
| | |
| | |About 1½ miles from Gedir, the
| | |sandy khor, Gedad, 8 feet wide and
| | |6 feet to 8 feet deep, said to
| | |come from J. Girada, is crossed.
| | |The last ¾ mile to Gedir is open
| | |ground with few scattered trees.
| | |
_J. Gedir_ | 7¾ | 82¼ |A rocky horseshoe-shaped hill,
| | |estimated altitude above the plain
| | |600 feet. The village is on the
| | |re-entrant. Near the gorge are two
| | |wells about 80 feet deep, with a
| | |little water. No other water was
| | |seen. There are about 500
| | |inhabitants. Many of the men have
| | |rifles. They are not naked like
| | |those of Kau, and appear to be a
| | |cross between Arabs and Nubas.
| | |
| | |The Mahdi’s Stone is a large
| | |boulder up the slope of the hill,
| | |outside of, and about ½ a mile
| | |from the northern heel of the
| | |horseshoe, and on the way to
| | |Girada, of the same colour as the
| | |surrounding rocks, and shaded by a
| | |heglig tree, which may account for
| | |the Mahdi’s partiality for it. No
| | |cultivation was seen, but the
| | |inhabitants said they had some
| | |dura fields ripening.
| | |
| | |Jebel Girada appears to be 5 to 7
| | |miles distant. It is said to have
| | |a plentiful water supply.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
101.—EL OBEID TO DAR EL JANGE.
BY MAJOR E. B. WILKINSON, JANUARY AND FEBRUARY, 1902.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | — | — |Leaving the Mudiria, the road runs
| | |in a S.S.W. direction, and at 1½
| | |miles distance further on reaches
| | |the southern edge of the El Obeid
| | |basin, and low acacia bush and an
| | |occasional baobab tree take the
| | |place of dukhn cultivation.
| | |
Track to _El | 5 | 5 |At 5 miles distance from El Obeid,
Atshan Wells_ | | |a broad track runs in a S.W.
| | |direction to El Atshan wells,
| | |which are situated in Khor
| | |Fertangul, 22 miles from El Obeid.
| | |
| | |The road to El Merekib continues
| | |in the same direction, viz.,
| | |S.S.W., and one passes through the
| | |same kind of bush with sandy soil
| | |until the village is reached. The
| | |inhabitants consist of Bederia and
| | |Ghodiat Arabs.
| | |
_El Merekib_ | 5 | 10 |There is a well here, but the
| | |supply of water is very small.
| | |Dukhn is cultivated around the
| | |village.
| | |
| | |The road continues in a S.W. by S.
| | |direction until J. Fertangul is
J. Fertangul | 6½ | 16½ |reached. There are two small hills
| | |of the same name; one E. of the
| | |road, and 6½ miles distant from
| 1½ | 18 |Merekib, and the other on the W.
| | |of the road, and 8 miles distant
| | |from Merekib. The crest of latter
| | |is crowned with white limestone.
| | |
_Khor | 1 | 19 |One mile from the hill, Khor
Fertangul_ | | |Fertangul with wells in its bed is
| | |reached.
| | |
| 5 | 24 |Khor.
| | |
Khor Kashgil | 1½ | 25½ |Khor Kashgil with good shade and
| | |grazing.
| | |
| | |Here road changes direction to
| | |S.S.E., and runs through thick
| | |bush for 9¾ miles until khor
_El Edeidat_ | 9¾ | 35½ |crosses road; this place is known
| | |as El Edeidat. There are two wells
| | |in khor. (Plenty of water March,
| | |1904.)
| | |
Hella Abdel | 5 | 40¼ |Road runs S. from here, and 5
Samad | | |miles on a track runs S.E. to
| | |Hella Abdel Samad, which is about
| | |1 mile off the main road.
| | |
_El Birket_ | 2¾ | 43 |One and three-quarter miles on
| | |road turns due W., and 1 mile on
| | |brings one to El Birket; there are
| | |two villages here consisting of
| | |Bederia Arabs who have a good deal
| | |of land under cultivation. Here
| | |there is a large lake or
| | |reservoir, which I am informed
| | |contains much water for eight
| | |months in the year, but owing to
| | |this year being exceptionally dry
| | |there was no water (February,
| | |1902), and wells sunk in the
| | |centre 24 feet deep were also dry.
| | |The area of this reservoir is
| | |probably 2 square miles. Good
| | |timber and shade on the southern
| | |edge of the lake.
| | |
| | |From here the road runs S.W.
| | |through thick bush, and the soil
| | |changes to black cotton soil.
| | |
El Edaiya Faki| 7 | 50 |The district known as El Edaiya
Yasin | | |commences, and Hella Beni Fadl is
| | |reached.
| | |
Um Seneina | 2¾ | 52¾ |Hella Um Seneina.
| | |
Abu Habl | 3¼ | 56 |Khor Abu Habl is reached at
| | |Sessaban. This district is
_Um Sessaban_ | | |inhabited by Bederia Arabs; each
| | |village has a certain amount of
| | |land cleared and under cultivation
| | |(dukhn). Khor Abu Habl is here
| | |about 15 to 20 yards broad, with
| | |high banks varying from 15 to 20
| | |feet with good timber growing
| | |along them. A few wells are sunk
| | |at Sessaban, but the supply of
| | |water was not sufficient to allow
| | |of animals being watered (8.1.02).
| | |
H. El Daruta | 3½ | 59½ |H. El Daruta (Bederia), J.
| | |Belgulti and Fainar visible from
| | |here.
| | |
| 2 | 61½ |Track runs W., and
| | |
H. Balamat | 1 | 62½ |Hella Balamat is reached.
| | |
_Kururra_ | 2½ | 65 |Khor Abu Habl is again struck at
| | |Kururra well, which is situated
| | |under a very fine gemmeiza tree,
| | |and gives a large quantity of
| | |water.
| | |
| | |Well, 80 feet to water, and there
| | |was 20 feet of water in it.
| | |Kururra village ½ mile E. of well,
| | |Bederia, also water at this well.
| | |Hawazma Arabs.
| | |
_Sungikai_ | 3 | 68 |Wells of Sungikai—four in number,
| | |72 feet deep in khor; banks of
| | |khor 10 to 15 feet high. Large
| | |population of Hawazma Arabs.
| | |
| | |Sungikai village 1½ miles N.W.
| | |
| | |From Sungikai village a much used
| | |road runs N.N.W. to El Obeid,
| | |passing through El Atshan wells in
| | |Khor Fertangul, distance 48 miles.
| | |
Zeriba El Aguz| 2½ | 70½ |Leaving Sungukai wells, one enters
or H. El | | |a very rich district. Road runs
Birgid | | |S.W., and 2½ miles H. El Birgid
| | |(Bederia) is reached, and villages
| | |occur almost every mile till El
| | |Nila is reached. There is much
| | |cultivation in this district; the
| | |inhabitants (Hawazma) possess many
| | |cattle, and N. of Nila there is
| | |excellent timber.
| | |
_El Nila_ | 5½ | 76 |At _El Nila_ there are six wells,
| | |average 42 feet deep, giving
| | |excellent supply of water, and
| | |many hundreds of cattle, sheep and
| | |goats water there daily. Fine
| | |gemmeiza, sunt, haraz, and heglig
| | |trees. Four to five Arab (Ferikgs)
| | |or settlements. Khor 20 yards
| | |between banks, which in places are
| | |22 to 25 feet broad. All along
| | |bank there is very good timber.
| | |
| | |Leaving El Nila wells in a S.S.E.
| | |direction, there is an excellent
| | |and much used road to J. Watta,
| | |distant 30 miles, first 10 miles
| | |good shade, after that none.
| | |
_J. | 15 | 91 |Leaving El Nila, road runs S.W.
Dilling_[32] | | |and after 13 miles through forest
| | |of heglig and talh, and over
| | |cotton soils bring one to J.
| | |Dilling, consisting of a group of
| | |hills; thickly populated by Nubas
| | |who build their little conical
| | |huts in groups in suitable
| | |recesses among the boulders high
| | |up in the hills.
| | |
| ½ | 91½ |Half a mile S.W. wells in khor;
| | |khor 25 to 30 yards broad; good
| | |shade and grazing; good camp
| | |ground.
| | |
_J. Abu Sebah_| 4 | 95½ |Four miles S.W. is J. Abu Sebah, a
| | |small rocky hill ½ mile from khor
| | |along which there is a small
| | |population of Hawazma Arabs, who
| | |have dug wells, four in number, in
| | |khor, depth 21 feet to water.
| | |Deleib palms were first seen
| | |between Dilling and this, and the
| | |country intervening is cleared and
| | |cultivated.
| | |
| | |From J. Abu Sebah road to Gulfan
| | |runs S.E. over cotton soil for
| | |first four miles. Open bush and
| | |then talh, heglig bush, &c.
| | |
J. Samasen | 15 | 110½ |J. Samasen is passed, and
| | |
| 4 | 114½ |Four miles on, one reaches the
| | |foot of hills where soil becomes
| | |more gravelly, and contains a lot
| | |of detritus and broken rock, which
| | |makes going harder for camels. The
| | |road trends S. and then W.,
| | |winding over spurs from the main
_J. Gulfan_ | 3 | 117½ |hills and passing over large areas
| | |which are cultivated with dura,
| | |eventually entering between the
| | |hills crowned with many Nuba
| | |villages and Gulfan is reached.
| | |
| | |Here there was very little water.
| | |Wells mere holes 6 feet to 8 feet,
| | |and having a very slow yield.
| | |Hills are here terraced to the
| | |top, and dura grown in large
| | |quantities. The terraces are most
| | |carefully made and walls of stone
| | |are built.
| | |
| | |From Gulfan the road runs W. over
| | |rock, and going is bad, as one is
| | |continually ascending and
| | |descending spurs.
| | |
| 2 | 119½ |Two miles after leaving, wells
| | |(mere holes in the ground, about 6
J. Tarda | 1 | 120½ |feet deep) are passed, the road
| | |now running between two ranges of
| ½ | 121 |hills, and there is an Arab
| | |settlement. J. Tarda is left on
| | |the N. and J. Watta 4 miles N.E.,
| | |and road turns S. and S.W.,
| | |following the contour of the
| | |southern range of hills, and ½
| | |mile on a road branches, running
| | |N.E. to J. Watta, which is
| | |inhabited by Nubas and Arabs.
| | |
| | |The road to J. Watta runs N.E.
| | |through thick bush for 4½ miles,
| | |and crosses a khor close to the
| | |hill. There are many wells, but
| | |most give very little water which,
| | |however, is of good quality. The
| | |road to Kadaro and El Obeid from
| | |S. passes through here; and also
| | |there is an excellent road to
| | |Nila, running N.N.W. through talh
| | |and jungle. This road is greatly
| | |used by Hawazma Arabs, who migrate
| | |N. annually. Six miles after
| | |leaving J. Watta, J. Tungul is
| | |left on E., 3 miles off road, and
| | |at 16 miles J. Dilling el Khulla
| | |is passed, 1 mile W. of road. No
| | |shade for 20 miles, then good
| | |shade and grazing; total distance
| | |to Nila 30 miles.
| | |
_Katta_ | 2½ | 123½ |Nuba village Katta is passed, and
| | |there is an Arab settlement close
| | |by. Much dura is cultivated. J.
| | |Sheibun and Um Heitan is visible.
| | |
| 2 | 125½ |A large rocky hill with jagged
| | |crest; low bush, no shade. Here
| | |road runs S.S.W., and 2¼ miles on
| | |khor is passed which had water in
| | |a hole under S. bank on 21.2.02.
| | |Road continues in same direction
| 2¼ | 127¾ |and the country is very much the
| | |same as before, talh and heglig,
| 9½ | 137¼ |only the soil is more gravelly
| | |until Khor Debri and Debri wells,
| | |6 feet deep, are reached. Leaving
| | |Debri wells, where there is a
| | |small hill, road runs S.W. for 2
| | |miles, and ¾ mile further S.
| | |
_J. Debri_ | 2¾ | 140 |J. Debri, with village (Nuba) of
| | |the same name is passed. Here much
| | |land is cleared and dura
| | |cultivated at the foot of hills.
| | |
_J. Kega_ | 2 | 142 |Two miles south of Debri road
| | |bends to W., skirting the foot of
| | |the hills, and J. Kega Tummero is
| | |reached. This is a large conical
| | |hill, part of W. chain of other
| | |features, and up the sides of
| | |which the Nubas have built their
| | |huts, some situated right on the
| | |top, at the foot of which and in
| | |the re-enterants are also many
| | |huts belonging to them and also
| | |Arabs. There is a well here but
| | |the water is very bad.
| | |
_Khor Kega_ | 2 | 144 |Two miles on Khor Kega is reached,
| | |which flows from J. Kega el Abiad
| | |and Kega Libu. There are six wells
| | |in bed of khor, which is 20 yards
| | |wide, 6 to 8 feet deep; water good
| | |and abundant, good shade and
| | |grazing. Much dura is cultivated
| | |in the plain, and there is an Arab
| | |(Hawazma) settlement. Crossing
| | |Khor Kega road runs roughly S.
| | |over cotton soil with talh and
| | |heglig forest, and at 3½ miles
Khor El Kuek | 3½ | 147½ |Khor El Kuek is crossed.
| | |
_Hella Daud_ | 12 | 159½ |Eleven miles on Hella Daud, 35 to
| | |40 huts belonging to Hawazmas, who
| | |cultivate dura and have much
| | |ground cleared. From here to S.W.
| | |the Miri range and J. Demik and
| | |Kega Heg El Kheil are visible.
| | |Water is transported from wells in
| | |a khor E. of village at the foot
| | |of J. Tesein Dhanat.
| | |
| | |After continuing S. through the
| | |same kind of forest and crossing
| | |many small watercourses which flow
| | |W. from the hills, the road skirts
| | |the foot of J. Musta, and Kadugli
_J. Kadugli_ | 7 | 166½ |is reached. Here there is a
| | |population of Nubas and Hawazma
| | |Arabs. The Mek of the Nubas is
| | |named Rehal, and he exercises
| | |power over all the surrounding
| | |hills. The whole of this range of
| | |high hills containing J. Tesem
| | |Dhanab, J. Musta and J. Kadugli,
| | |is known by the name of El Goghub.
| | |J. Sabori, to the W., is also
| | |inhabited.
| | |
| | | FROM KADUGLI TO KEILAK.
| | |
_Khor Kadugli_| ½ | 167 |Leaving the camp at the foot of J.
| | |Kadugli one proceeds W. and ½ mile
| | |on brings one to the khor of the
| | |same name. Here there are three
| | |groups of wells. (1) ¾ mile W. of
| | |Arab village there are a group of
| | |some half a dozen wells,
| | |principally used by Arabs. (2)
| | |Central group, live wells 6 feet
| | |deep, used by Nubas. (3) 1 mile
| | |down stream and S., two wells 6
| | |feet deep, used by the Mek’s
| | |immediate household; all give a
| | |good supply of water. There is
| | |very good grazing all along the
| | |khor. Much dura cultivated.
| | |
J. Kaffari | 2 | 169 |J. Kaffari is passed S. of road
| | |which runs W. through much dura
| 1 | 170 |cultivation and along the banks of
| | |Khor Kadugli, which rises in Miri
| | |range. Road passes now between low
| | |range of hills, and continues W.
| | |by S. for 5 miles through level
| | |plain covered with heglig, talh,
| 5 | 175 |and haraz forest, with clearings
| | |for dura cultivation, with the
| | |hills close in on either side
| | |forming a narrow gorge scarcely
| | |200 yards wide, down which runs a
| | |khor some 10 to 15 yards broad.
| | |The ground being rocky it is very
| ¾ | 175¾ |bad going for camels and bulls.
| | |
| | |Gorge turns abruptly S., and road
| | |continues on through pretty
| | |scenery in a W. direction over a
| | |rocky saddle-back, and then one
| | |gradually descends into a valley
| | |in which a large and important
| | |khor rises which feeds Lake
| | |Keilak, and enters the Bahr El
| | |Arab. Water here obtained by
| | |digging in the sand in bed of
| | |khor.
| | |
| | |Plain surrounded by green
| | |vegetation; good timber, and there
| | |is much land cleared for dura
| | |cultivation. The hills are
| | |terraced to the tops and dura
| | |grown on them.
| | |
_Tuluk_ | 5 | 180 |Tuluk, the abode of Mek Hamed Abu
| | |Sekin, is reached, and there are
| | |many groups of villages in the
| | |surrounding hills; some low down
| | |near the foot, others perched high
| | |up near the crests. Here,
| | |surrounded on all sides by hills,
| | |is a large open area of ground
| | |with water within 2 feet of the
| | |surface, probably 1½ square miles
| | |of rich soil, which, if only
| | |tilled, would grow almost
| | |everything. The Nubas only require
| | |dura, however.
| | |
J. Kufa | 3 | 183 |Leaving Tuluk the track runs along
| | |side of khor, which now runs S.W.,
| | |and 3 miles on J. Kufa, with
| | |several large villages, is passed.
| | |Here roads divide; one, following
| | |khor, passes through plain much
| | |cultivated with dura by the Nubas
| | |of J. Kufa, Lima, and Kania. The
| | |khor here is walled across at
| | |intervals with large stones to
| | |hold back the water in the rains.
| | |Khor emerges from the hills at J.
| | |Kania.
| | |
_J. Abu Sinun_| 2 | 185 |The second road runs S.S.W. to J.
| | |Abu Sinun, where there are two
| | |Nuba villages under Mek Zakharia,
| | |and a Homr (Felaita) village.
| | |Water obtained from khor.
| | |
_J. Kanga_ | 3 | 188 |Three miles W. is J. Kanga, the
| | |southern side of which hill is
| | |fortified by a 6-feet stone wall,
| | |crowned by a zeriba to guard the
| | |Nubas from raids by the Homr
| | |Arabs. The huts are high up the
| | |hill. Khor emerges here between
| | |two hills, and is now 20 to 25
| | |yards broad; well 4 to 6 feet in
| | |khor; water good. Looking S. about
| | |20 miles off are two hills, and
| | |beyond as far as the eye can reach
| | |to the S. and W. is a dead level
| | |plain covered with forest. From J.
| | |Kanga, road runs W. and S.W., and
| | |for 1½ miles there is dura
| | |cultivation.
| | |
| 1 | 189 |Khor crosses road, and cotton soil
| | |takes the place of rocky
| | |decomposed gravel. The forest is
| | |of larger growth—talh and heglig,
| | |and the tracks of animals which
| | |have struggled through the deep
| | |mud that exists in the rains
| | |become visible.
| | |
| 3½ | 192½ |Road again crosses khor, and long
| | |grass hinders any view.
| | |
| 2½ | 195 |Road crosses outlet from Lake
| | |Keilak, which now becomes visible,
| | |and then goes due W. for two miles
| | |when Keilak is reached.
| | |
_Keilak_ | 2 | 197 |Keilak is a series of groups of
| | |tukls badly built and inhabited by
| | |Homr Arabs who possess few flocks,
| | |a few horses, and appear to live
| | |on the Nubas.
| | |
| | |The limits of the lake are very
| | |difficult to determine, as for 2
| | |miles on N.E. and N. sides long
| | |grass 8 feet high hides all view,
| | |but from what can be observed by
| | |riding round the length was
| | |computed to be 4 miles and the
| | |breadth 2 miles. On 22.1.02, there
| | |was a very large expanse of open
| | |water, and the natives reported it
| | |to be considerably over a man’s
| | |height in depth. In order to reach
| | |the open water one has to wade
| | |through a broad fringe of green
| | |grass and lilies. Soil surrounding
| | |lake excellent, rich soil and
| | |water could be found a mile from
| | |edge, 6 feet below surface. The
| | |forest on S. and W. sides very
| | |good, and there are some really
| | |fine timber trees.
| | |
| | |
| 2 | 199 |Leaving Keilak road runs N. for 2
| | |miles then S.S.E., and numerous
| | |Arab settlements are passed
| | |situated along the outlet of the
| | |lake.
| | |
_El Geref_ | 4½ | 203½ |4½ miles El Geref; Homr
| | |settlement; here there is water in
| | |any quantity, 8 paces broad with
| | |grass and water-lilies covering
| | |the surface. Water 1 to 2 feet
| | |deep in places. Current very
| | |slight; Arabs clear spaces and
| | |fence them round for fish to
| | |collect in.
| | |
| 1¼ | 204¾ |Road then goes S.W. for 1¼ miles,
| | |then S.S.E. for 2½ miles over a
| | |broad swamp, dry at date of
| | |crossing (25.1.02), but covered
| | |with long grass and pitted with
| | |elephant tracks, which were
| 2½ | 207¼ |terrible pitfalls for the baggage
| | |animals. After crossing this bit
| | |of country, track runs S.W., along
| | |edge of bed of river, which was
| | |dry, and going became better, and
| | |when track ran on the slightly
| | |elevated edge of forest; the soil
_El Yoi_ | 20¾ | 228 |was sandy and going good until El
| | |Yoi was reached. Along immediate
| | |edge of river, forest very good.
| | |To the E. and W. away from river,
| | |talh and heglig forest and cotton
| | |soil.
| | |
| | |At El Yoi two pools were found,
| | |containing good water sufficient
| | |for our wants, but likely only to
| | |last for a few days. Ground here
| | |much cut up and intersected by
| | |small water channels, while soil
| | |was baked hard and cracked in all
| | |directions, making it most
| | |difficult for bulls and donkeys to
| | |travel. At El Yoi itself, good
| | |shade and fine trees; forest in
| | |neighbourhood and to S. consists
| | |of talh, and ground covered with
| | |long grass.
| | |
_El Dirkoei_ | 7¾ | 235¾ |Road continues S.W., and after 7¾
| | |miles, El Dirkoei is reached; this
| | |place merely a reach of the river,
| | |which at the time contained a
| | |little water.
| | |
_El Debekir_ | 3½ | 239¼ |Three and a-half miles S.W., El
| | |Debekir was reached. Here there
| | |was an Arab (Homr) settlement;
| | |water in bed of river, 8 feet deep
| | |in places and covered with grass
| | |(27.1.02), but dry on 11.2.02.
| | |
| | |From Debekir road runs over black
| | |cotton soil very much fissured. W.
| 13¾ | 253 |by S. for 13¾ miles, then S.S.W.
| | |for 3 miles when heglig forest is
_El Anga_ | 3 | 256 |entered and El Anga on river is
| | |reached. Here there is an Arab
| | |settlement, and there was a little
| | |water (28.1.02).
| | |
_Kuek_ | 5½ | 261½ |Road now runs 1¾ miles S.W., and
| | |S. for 3¾ miles when Kuek is
| | |reached. Here the river is 50
| | |yards broad, and the water was
| | |from 2 feet 6 inches to 4 feet
| | |deep, but covered with grass.
| | |Large Arab settlement and many
| | |cattle.
| | |
_H. Debib_ | 6 | 267½ |Road runs S.W. for 6 miles, when
| | |H. Debib is passed; a few Homr
| | |Arabs living here; but in the
| | |rains there are many wells; one
| | |well 6 feet deep, water good.
| | |
| | |General run of road now S.S.W. to
| | |S.
| | |
Fula Hamadai | 3½ | 271 |Fula Hamadai with a little water
| | |sufficient to water animals on
| | |30.1.02; but dry on 9.2.02. Small
| | |villages—mere collection of three
| | |or four huts passed at El Jaart
| | |and Um Geren.
| | |
Fut | 11¾ | 282¾ |Eleven and three quarter miles
| | |from Fula Hamadai, village named
| | |Fut was passed. Country here more
| | |open and lower bush; going better,
| | |and road crosses river bed; dry
| | |and long grass.
| | |
_Fauwel_ | 4 | 286¾ |Fauwel is reached. Large Arab
| | |settlement; much water in river,
| | |and an open expanse 1¾ miles
| | |surrounded by reeds. Geese and
| | |waterfowl. Homr Arabs here very
| | |wild, but possess many cattle,
| | |goats and sheep.
| | |
| 8¾ | 295½ |Road now runs 1 mile S.W. and 5¾
| | |miles S.S.E. and strikes the
| | |river, then continues to run
| | |alongside of it for 2 miles, when
| | |the river takes a bend N.E. The
| | |river here is very broad, 300
| | |yards in places and the water is 3
| | |feet 6 inches deep, generally the
| | |surface is covered with grass and
| | |weeds, and very little open water
| | |is seen. The trees on bank are
| | |also much bigger.
| | |
Bahr El Arab | 5 | 300½ |The Bahr El Arab here has to be
| | |crossed, and this was done at a
| | |point where it was 120 yards
| | |broad, with water 3 to 3 feet 6
| | |inches deep, the baggage bulls
| | |being unloaded and the baggage
| | |being carried across by hand. Bed
| | |of river very muddy.
| | |
| | |From this point, which is known to
| | |the Arabs, as the district of
| | |Bara, the river flows S.S.E. as
| | |far as could be judged.
| | |
| | |Track now runs S., and at 5 miles
| | |divides one running S.S.W. to the
| | |country of a Dinka chief called
| | |Rueng, the other S.S.W. leads over
| | |a wide plain covered with long
| | |grass and a few bushes; surface of
| | |ground much fissured and soil much
| | |cut up.
| | |
| | |Country changes to forest after
| | |some miles.
| | |
Bongo | 14¾ | 315¼ |The first Dinka village of Bombo
| | |is reached. This district is now
| 3 | 318¼ |known as Bongo, and 3 miles on,
| | |S.W., is one of the villages of
Tehak | 2½ | 320¾ |Tehak, another of the same name
| | |being met 2½ miles on.
| | |
| | |These villages, neatly built, are
| | |used by the Dinkas in the rains
| | |and as long as the water lasts. At
| | |the present date, 2.2.02., all the
| | |inhabitants had left and were
| | |grazing their herds of cattle
| | |where grass and water were to be
| | |found.
| | |
_Etai_ | 2 | 322¾ |Reached Etai, where the first
| | |Dinkas were met. Here there were
| | |large settlements, and the people
| | |were most friendly. A chief named
| | |Lor has his headquarters here. A
| | |large watercourse flows in from
| | |N.E. and meets another
| | |watercourse, the Regabet El Lau,
| | |which comes from N.W., and then
| | |joining runs into the Kir, or Bahr
| | |El Jange, in a southerly
| | |direction.
| | |
_Kir, or Bahr | 5½ | 328¼ |Road continues for 3 miles through
El Jange_ | | |forest S.W., then runs W. for 2½,
| | |miles, and the Kir River, or Bahr
| | |El Jange, is struck, as one
| | |reaches the settlements of Sultan
| | |Rob.
| | |
| | |The river here is a most pleasant
| | |sight after the monotonous red
| | |talh forest and long grass, and is
| | |80 yards broad now, 3.2.02., 12 to
| | |15 feet deep, current 1½ miles an
| | |hour. Banks low but firm, with
| | |green rushes and grass along the
| | |edges. In the rains the banks are
| | |flooded and the river widens to
| | |200 to 400 yards. There are a few
| | |dugouts here; the natives say that
| | |canoes can go in open water to the
| | |Bahr El Ghazal. Fish are
| | |plentiful, as are also crocodiles
| | |and hippos.
| | |
| | |The district on N. bank is called
| | |Mareg. The district on S. bank is
| | |called Masian, and the Sultan Rob
| | |lives in the latter. Much dura is
| | |cultivated.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
102.—RIVER KIR TO FAUWEL.
BY MAJOR E. B. WILKINSON, JANUARY AND FEBRUARY, 1902.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| 2¼ | — |Leaving Sultan Rob’s settlement
| | |the road runs N.W., and the river
| | |is left on the left, but is struck
| | |again 2¼ miles on, and the path
| | |keeps along the left bank. The
| | |country here is all open, and much
| | |dura cultivated. Dinka dwellings
| | |are dotted about, and the country
| | |presents a most prosperous aspect.
| | |
_Gohea_ | 2¾ | 5 |Village of Gohea on river bank,
| | |which here has become overgrown
| | |with reeds, grass, &c. River here
| | |turns to N.W., and road now runs
| 2¾ | 7¾ |N.E. for 2¾ miles, then E. by N.
| | |
| 1 | 8¾ |One mile on Regabet El Lau, coming
| | |in from N. and running S.
| | |
_El Niat_ | 1¼ | 10 |The commencement of a large swamp,
| | |now dry, called El Niat, but
| | |covered with long grass, and going
| | |is very bad.
| | |
| 4½ | 14½ |End of El Niat.
| | |
| 1½ | 16 |Direction of road changes to N.
| | |
Gulmaia | 9¼ | 25¼ |Gulmaia, a pool containing very
| | |bad water; almost dried up.
| | |
_Abu Kareit_ | 4 | 29¼ |Abu Kareit, on Bahr El Arab. Homr
| | |settlement. River here 100 yards
| | |broad, with water 2 feet 6 inches
| | |deep covered with grass; river
| | |here flows E. and W.
| | |
Mellum | 4¾ | 34 |Track follows river bank.
| | |
| | |Mellum, an Arab settlement, with
| | |Khor Famai running in from N.
| | |
_Regabet El | 6½ | 40½ |River now flows W. by N., and 6½
Shaib_ | | |miles on Regabet El Shaib; flows
| | |in the N. from river; now bends
| | |S.W., and enters district called
| | |Bara. Immediately at this point
| | |flows in Keilak El Yoi; and Fauwel
| | |flows in from N.E.
| | |
Fauwel | 3¼ | 43¾ |From Regabet El Shaib road runs
| | |N.E., and another 3¼ miles N.
| | |brings one to Fauwel.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF BAHR EL ARAB AND DAR EL HOMR.
Immediately one emerges from the hilly country of the Nubas a vast
level plain meets the eye, absolutely devoid of landmarks: the soil
changes abruptly to rich black cotton soil with fissures, some so
broad and deep that it is dangerous for bulls and donkeys, owing to
their getting their legs jammed in the cracks. The surface of the
land is uniformly covered with talh and heglig trees; occasionally
tamarind and kau trees are met. Only two india-rubber trees were
seen. The natives do not appear to know the use of these. The Bahr El
Arab in section is very shallow, with no defined banks, and at this
time of year water is more or less in pools. All the confluents are
the same shallow watercourses, and the country appears to be one vast
swamp in the rains. Only in a few places, Fauwel, Keilak, and Kuek,
do the Homr Arabs remain throughout the year, as they say that the
flies and mosquitoes torment men and beasts to such an extent as to
make life unbearable.
103.—EL OBEID TO SUNGIKAI, _viâ_ EL ATSHAN AND EL HAMADI.
BY DEPUTY INSPECTOR C. E. LYALL.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
El Obeid | 5 | 5 |After leaving El Obeid in a
| | |southerly direction, road divides,
| | |going S. to Mereikab and S.S.W. to
| | |El Atshan.
| | |
| | |Road continues in S.S.W.
| | |direction, and thorn bush does not
| | |impede travelling; going generally
| | |good.
| | |
El Atshan | 17 | 22 |El Atshan wells are reached, 22
| | |miles from El Obeid; quite
| | |dry—20.4.03.
| | |
| | |Leaving El Atshan, road divides
| | |S.S.E. to Kadero, S.W. to El
| | |Hamadi; country generally open
| | |bush and good going. Two khors
| | |with fine timber are crossed.
| | |
El Hamadi | 18 | 40 |El Hamadi is reached 18 miles from
| | |El Atshan. On 20.4.03 there was a
| | |little water in shallow wells in
| | |khor; it took about 2 hours to get
| | |two burmas. On 5.6.03 there was no
| | |water.
| | |
El Nebag | 7 | 47 |Leaving El Hamadi, road goes S.W.;
| | |at first a good deal of thorn
| | |bush, till passing El Nebag, which
| | |is a depression with many
| | |magnificent trees and in which
| | |there is water in the rains. After
| | |passing El Nebag the road opens
| | |out, and the going is good and
| | |hard. After travelling 18 miles
| | |from El Hamadi, El Hagiz, a
Khor El Haigiz| 11 | 58 |shallow khor with some good shade,
| | |is reached. Half a mile before
| | |reaching El Hagiz road is joined
| | |by road from Um (Girban) Durban.
| | |
Sungikai, H. | 12 | 70 |Road continues in a S.W. direction
Gaghgagh | | |till Sungikai is reached. The
| | |hella is 2 miles from the wells.
| | |Unlimited water.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
N.B.—On El Obeid, Hamadi Sungikai road, except in rains, there is
very little shade, except at El Atshan, Hamadi, El Nebag and Umhagiz.
104.—DILLING TO EL OBEID, _viâ_ SUNGIKAI, UM DURBAN AND UM RAMAD.
BY DEPUTY INSPECTOR C. E. LYALL, JUNE 1903 AND MARCH, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Dilling | — | — |The road from Dilling to Sungikai
(Nuba)_ | | |soon after passing Jebel Dilling
| | |separates from the Dilling-Nila
| | |road and keeps W. of it. The
| | |general direction is N.E., the
| | |road is good going and fairly free
Gad El Kerim | 16 | 16 |from thorns. There are a few
(Hawazma) | | |patches of black cotton soil;
| | |after 10 miles the road crosses
| | |the Khor Abu Habl,[33] and
| | |continues N.E. till Hellet Gad el
| | |Kerim is reached.
| | |
| | |The inhabitants of this village
| | |drink from the wells at Nila,
| | |except during the rains, when they
| | |drink from pools in Khor Abu Habl.
_Sungikai | 6 | 22 |The road keeps up on the rising
(Zeriba El | | |ground, passing numerous villages
Aguz)_ | | |till the largest village in the
| | |immediate neighbourhood of
| | |Sungikai, Zeriba el Aguz, is
| | |reached.
| | |
_Sungikai_ (H.| 2 | 24 |Leaving this village the road from
Gaghgagh) | | |Sungikai after being joined by
| | |roads from the numerous
| | |surrounding villages continues in
| | |a N.E. direction till El Hagiz is
| | |reached, ½ mile after passing
| | |which the road divides N.N.E. to
| | |Um Durban. The road, after passing
| | |to the W. of Zeriba el Aguz, goes
| | |H. Gaghgagh and thence to El
| | |Hagiz, where it divides W. to Um
| | |Durban and E. to El Hamadi.
| | |
_Um Durban_ | 24 | 48 |The road is at first very winding
(Kenana) | | |with a good deal of shok, after
| | |about 6 miles it opens out, and
| | |continues fair till Um Durban is
| | |reached; where on 5.6.03, there
| | |was a little water from wells in
| | |khor; in March 1904, the water had
| | |dried up.
| | |
| | |Leaving Um Durban the road goes
| | |N.E., after about 6 miles Hellet
| | |Kafawa is passed some 4 miles to
| | |the W. of the road.
| | |
| | |The road continues in the same
| | |direction N.E., the going being
| | |uniformly good and free from shok,
| | |except in a few depressions and
| | |khors till after some 24 miles,
| | |when the soil becomes heavy red
_Um Ramad_ | 30 | 78 |sand, which continues till Um
(Bederia) | | |Ramad is reached. At this village
| | |there are numerous shallow wells
| | |and water holes, but they were
| | |quite dry on 6.6.03, but plenty of
| | |water 1.5.04. The people drink
| | |from Abu Haraz and Obeid. The road
| | |from Um Durban joins the Abu Haraz
| | |road ½ mile from Um Ramad.
| | |
| | |After passing Um Ramad the road
| | |broadens out into a track about 15
| | |feet wide, and continues in a N.E.
| | |direction till El Obeid is
| | |reached.
| | |
_El Gika_ | 5 | 83 |Five miles after leaving Um Ramad,
| | |the first El Gika village is
| | |passed ½ mile to the left of the
| | |road. Plenty of water 1.5.04.
| | |
| | |There are five villages at El
| | |Gika, each about a mile from the
| | |other; the road to El Obeid from
El Obeid | 11 | 94 |El Gika runs parallel to the Abu
| | |Haraz-El Obeid road until it joins
| | |it about 3 miles from El Obeid. On
| | |this road from Sungikai there is
| | |very little shade, except at the
| | |villages.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
105.—ROUTES IN DAR NUBA—SOUTHERN KORDOFAN.
BY CAPTAIN C. H. LEVESON, 18TH (P.W.) HUSSARS, DECEMBER, 1903-MARCH,
1904.
(i.) Jebel Tendik to Lukka.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Tendik | — | — |Large Nuba village of 1,200
| | |people. Most of the village is
| | |built in a hollow about 600 feet
| | |up the jebel and on a ridge above
| | |it. Good water up on the mountain,
| | |also good below, where there is a
| | |garrison of half company 12th
| | |Sudanese. Quiet, peaceable people;
| | |much cultivation; sheep and goats,
| | |but not many cattle. A big khor
| | |runs along E. and S. of jebel,
| | |through dense deleib palms. The
| | |road runs nearly due S., and
| | |crosses the big khor at 2
| | |miles—re-crossing it again almost
| | |at once.
| | |
| — | 5 |A jebel about 30 feet high on W.
| | |Cross a ridge and a khor a mile
| 1 | 6 |further on. All good going over
| | |gravel.
| | |
| 1 | 7 |
| | |
| 1 | 8 |Cross another khor, when road runs
| | |between parallel ridges of stony
| 2¼ | 10¼ |hills for 2¼ miles, when the Khor
| | |Sesaban is reached.
| | |
J. Odam | 1¼ | 11½ |A small hill, 400 feet on right.
| | |Cross Khor Ardeib, 8 feet deep.
| | |
Khor Ardeib | 1½ | 13 |
| | |
| | |For 5½ miles there is a range of
| | |low hills on right of road and for
| | |the next 5½ a low range on left of
| | |road.
| | |
| 11 | 24 |Cross a khor.
| | |
_Khor Nueila_ | 1 | 25 |A mile further on, and the Khor
| | |Nueila is reached. The main
| | |channel about 15 feet deep and 30
| | |yards wide. Beyond is a swampy
| | |track 600 yards across, with pools
| | |of water (December, 1903), biggest
| | |100 yards long and 3 feet deep.
| | |Good clear water. Much game;
| | |tracks of lion and leopard.
| | |Hartebeeste and wart-hog seen.
| | |Elephants live about here in
| | |rains. After crossing swamp, track
| | |leads up on to higher ground,
| | |crossing a small khor, and at 1½
| 1½ | 26½ |miles and further another khor.
| | |
| 1½ | 28 |
| | |
| ½ | 28½ |A small hill on right.
| | |
| ½ | 29 |Cross khor.
| | |
| ½ | 29½ |A hill on right, cross the Khor Id
| | |El Simoa, 6 feet deep, 30 yards
| | |wide.
| | |
| 1¼ | 30¾ |Small hill on right.
| | |
| 1 | 31¾ |Cross Khor Jogham, 6 feet deep, 20
| | |yards wide.
| | |
| 1 | 32¾ |Small hill, J. Gelabi, on right.
| | |
Khor Hash | 3¼ | 36 |A little water still standing in
Hashi | | |marshy ground behind main channel,
| | |which is 12 yards broad and 10
| | |feet deep. Cross khor, and for 2½
| | |miles there are low hills on left
| | |of road.
| | |
J. Thaba | 4 | 40 |J. Thaba on right of road, cone-
| | |shaped hill, with bald, smooth
| | |top, about 70 feet. A good
| | |landmark.
| | |
_Khor Um | 3 | 43 |Khor Um Idara, plenty of water
Idara_ | | |here now. Tracks of lion. As
| | |usual, swarms of guinea fowl. Main
| | |channel 20 yards wide, 8 feet
| | |deep.
| | |
| 3½ | 46½ |Khor Um Aleik, shallow, broad,
| | |sandy khor.
| | |
J. Obni | 1¼ | 47¾ |J. Obni, half a mile away on right
| | |of road.
| | |
| ¾ | 48½ |Khor Dabdub—small.
| | |
J. Doga | ½ | 49 |J. Doga, 1 mile away on right of
| | |road—jagged top.
| | |
J. Lukka | 3¾ | 52¾ |Road curves round to right in a
| | |wide sweep and enters valley at
| | |foot of mountain. (Described in
| | |Kologi-Lukka road.)
(ii.) J. Lukka to J. Errio.
J. Lukka | — | — |Road leads N. out of valley for ½
| | |mile, then curves to left along
| | |high ground on northern spurs of
| | |J. Lukka. Good going over gravelly
| | |ridges; by making short detours to
| | |right, at khors, all dismounting
| | |may be avoided. Much cultivation
| | |on right.
| | |
Khor Tuffa | — | 6 |The Khor Tuffa 20 yards broad, 12
| | |feet deep; must dismount
| | |here—quite dry. Road becomes stony
| | |after khor.
| | |
_Errio_ | 2 | 8 |Village of Errio is reached after
| | |bending round sharp to left and
| | |crossing a “nek,” or “col.” Many
| | |cattle. Population, Kawahla Arabs
| | |crossed with Nubas. Population
| | |about 700, under Sheiks Badei Bakr
| | |and Abballa Adam. No rifles seen.
| | |Quiet people; do not raid. Plenty
| | |of dura.
| | |
| | |Water plentiful but dirty. Best
| | |camp ½ mile beyond village to
| | |S.W., on Tira El Akhdar road.
(iii.) Route J. Errio to J. Talodi, _viâ_ Tosi and J. Meselli.
J. Errio | — | — |Road runs S.W. through thorn bush
| | |over cotton soil. Open country
| | |both sides; also cultivation.
| | |
| 0 | 5½ |Pass small hill on right.
| | |
| 3 | 8½ |Hillock ¼ mile away on left.
| | |
| ½ | 9 |Cross khor, 12 feet deep, 12 yards
| | |broad.
| | |
_Tosi_ | ½ | 9½ |Tosi village of about 500 Kawahla
| | |Arabs crossed with Nubas, under
| | |Sheikh El Fadl Didigair, lying at
| | |south end of small stony hill 400
| | |or 500 feet high. Water supply
| | |poor. Supplies poor.
| | |
| 4½ | 14 |Road now passes between hills and
| | |drops down about 100 feet over an
| | |“agaba,” and leads through cotton
| | |soil for 1 mile to
| | |
Khor Kagala | 2¾ | 16¾ |A broad shallow khor in thick
| | |bush. A hill about 300 feet high
| | |on right of crossing. Good going.
| | |
K. El Kirki | 2¼ | 19 |Khor El Kirki—small.
| | |
J. Meselli | 2 | 21 |J. Meselli—on right.
| | |
K. Um Sinin | 2 | 23 |Khor Um Sinin; forest land.
| | |
K. Joghan | 5 | 28 |Khor Joghan; forest land.
| | |
| ½ | 28½ |Crosses ridge and drops down about
| | |100 feet to
| | |
_Amuti_ | 1½ | 30 |300 yards on left of road several
| | |big pools of clear good water.
| | |Best watering place; better than
| | |Tosi and Talodi after February.
| | |Good going to
| | |
_Um Dual_ | 5½ | 35½ |A small hillock and (in January,
| | |1904) a pool of clear water 120
| | |yards long, 40 yards wide, 4 feet
| | |deep. No shade.
| | |
| | |Cultivation by people of Talodi.
| | |About 1½ or 2 miles south is an
| | |odd needle-shaped rock some 200
| | |feet high, visible for 20 miles
| | |round.
| | |
| | |Road now leads through thick
| | |forest for 4 miles. Roan antelope
| | |seen.
| | |
| 4 | 39½ |Cotton soil and light bush.
| | |
K. Abu Um | 1 | 40½ |The Khor Abd Um Jamad no obstacle
Jamad | | |in dry weather. Cultivation begins
| | |again.
| | |
_Talodi_ | 3 | 43½ |The village of Tebeldia, at E.N.E.
(Tebeldia) | | |corner of Talodi, is passed. It
| | |lies a mile away in valley to
| | |right.
| | |
_Talodi_ | 1 | 44½ |Village of Felaita and barracks of
(Felaita) | | |half company 12th Sudanese.
| | |
| | |J. Talodi is a rugged precipitous
| | |mountain, about 1,300 feet high
| | |and 28 miles in circumference. On
| | |its eastern face is a valley
| | |running a short way into mountain
| | |(village of Felaita in opening),
| | |which is said to communicate by a
| | |rough path, known as “Darb El
| | |Haramia,” with a corresponding
| | |valley on the western face.
| | |
| | |There are three villages, all
| | |nominally under the head sheikh,
| | |an old man called Sherif Wad Abu
| | |Omo:—
| | |
| | |Tebeldia, population 800, Sheikh
| | |Mamun.
| | |
| | |Felaita, „ 2,200, „ Abdalla
| | |Shamsham.
| | |
| | |Ageira, „ 800, „ Shanna Wad El
| | |Aris.
| | |
| | |The last named village lies some 7
| | |miles away to the S.W. of the
| | |mountain. The inhabitants are
| | |descendants of freed and escaped
| | |slaves of the Homr. There is a
| | |small colony of true Nubas at the
| | |south end of the mountain.
| | |
| | |They used to be notorious for
| | |their success in raiding. They
| | |possess about 300 or 400 rifles.
| | |Cultivation insufficient for their
| | |own needs. Water supply poor. They
| | |begin to trade for grain in
| | |February with the Nubas of J.
| | |Moro, at Kororak.
| | |
| | |Half company 12th Sudanese and
| | |Mamuria at Felaita.
(iv.) J. Errio to J. Talodi, _viâ_ Tira El Akhdar, Tira Mandi and
Kindirma (February, 1904).
J. Errio | | — |Road leads out S.W. for ½ mile,
| | |then west and through cultivation.
| | |Good going.
| | |
| 2½ | 2½ |A khor—rough broken ground.
| | |
| 1¾ | 4¼ |A broad shallow kohr.
| | |
| 2¾ | 7 |Khor 11 feet deep. Had to
| | |dismount.
| | |
| ¼ | 7¼ |Khor 10 feet deep. Dom palms.
| | |
| 3¾ | 11 |Slight descent to deep broad kohr,
| | |travel along it for 400 yards, and
| | |then climb out.
| | |
| ½ | 11½ |Beginning to ascend a ridge among
| | |rough rocky hills.
| | |
| 1¼ | 12¾ |Track leads over a smooth gravelly
| | |plateau for 1 mile.
| | |
| 1 | 13¾ |Road descends to cultivation;
| | |rough stony going.
| | |
| 1 | 14¾ |Track leads sharp to right down
| | |rocky side of hill into a grassy
| | |valley about 3 miles long.
| | |
| ½ | 15¼ |Cross broad sandy khor, with
| | |rivulet a yard wide in centre
| | |(February, 1904). Water disappears
| | |a mile further down. Dom palms.
| | |
_Tira El | ½ | 15¾ |Good camping place under shady
Akhdar_ | | |trees by stream. The Nuba village
| | |is situated on the hills to the
| | |west of the valley, which is only
| | |½ mile wide.
| | |
| | |They possess few rifles, but many
| | |spears and clubs. Population about
| | |1,200, under Meks
| | |
| | |(1) Shega.
| | |
| | |(2) Amiri.
| | |
| | |(3) Atuira.
| | |
| | |(4) El Gamal.
| | |
| | |(5) Ti.
| | |
| | |They are greatly feared and hated
| | |by surrounding Jebels, owing to
| | |their raids. They are true Nuban,
| | |and wear no clothing. They own a
| | |lot of cattle and goats.
| | |
| | |The track, rough and stony, leads
| | |S. along the edge of Western hills
| | |of the valley, and turns to the
| 4 | 19¾ |right (W.) over a slight rise, a
| | |“nek” or ridge, and runs through
| | |forest land. Going better. Gravel.
| | |
| 2½ | 22¼ |Track turns slightly N., and
| | |passes by a khor, banks 20 feet,
| | |breadth of all channels 100 yards,
| | |and then runs through thick
| | |forest. Good going.
| | |
| 7 | 29¼ |Crosses a broad sandy khor 50 to
| | |90 yards wide, and runs along W.
_Tiramandi_ | ½ | 29¾ |bank half mile to Tiramandi camp.
| | |Village is two miles away to the
| | |S.W., on a spur of the hill.
| | |
| | |Mek Nuwai; population, 700 Nubas.
| | |Very poor, and had been lately
| | |raided, very few cattle, but are
| | |clearing forest along W. bank of
| | |khor for cultivation. No rifles
| | |seen.
| | |
| 2 | 31¾ |Track leads S.W. from camp, one
| | |mile to village, and then passes
| | |over low spur below village round
| | |S. of hill, direction S.W. Rough
| | |and stony, much cut up by small
| | |khors.
| | |
| 2 | 33¾ |Gold is found here in the rainy
| | |season, the rain displacing rocks
| | |and stones on the ridge to the N.
| | |side of the road. The people
| | |search for it among the debris.
| | |They state that by hard work a man
| | |can get sufficient to pay his
| | |tribute (apparently not worth
| | |working).
| | |
| 1¼ | 35 |Road crosses a broad khor, and the
| | |hills on right of road trend away
| | |to the N.W.
| | |
| | |Many small khors are crossed. Road
| | |bends round Southern end of a
| | |ridge at right angle to road.
| | |
| 4 | 39 |Road crosses a broad sandy khor.
| | |Spur from J. Kindirma runs down on
| | |right to the khor. After crossing,
| | |road bends round to left (S.),
| | |along Eastern face of Kindirma.
| | |
_Kindirma_ | 1¾ | 40¾ |A valley in the Eastern face of a
| | |mountain down which a stream forms
| | |a succession of waterfalls and
| | |deep pools. 20 to 30 feet across,
| | |and six feet deep. A rough path
| | |leads up along the waterfall to
| | |the top of the ridge, some 400 or
| | |500 feet, and on either side the
| | |mountain rises nearly sheer to a
| | |height of 110 feet. The Nubas live
| | |on top of the right or Northern
| | |side, and their village is
| | |approached by a precipitous path
| | |winding up the face of the cliff,
| | |and at times disappearing in
| | |clefts in the rocks, reappearing
| | |again 10 feet higher up.
| | |
| | |On reaching the top of the ridge
| | |one finds oneself in a valley
| | |formed by the mountains which
| | |curve back outwards from either
| | |side of the waterfall and unite
| | |again three miles from the ridge,
| | |forming a bowl-shaped hollow, the
| | |stream flows along the bottom of
| | |this basin and falls over the
| | |ridge to the level of the main
| | |road outside Kindirma.
| | |
| | |The Mek’s name is Gandal. The
| | |population is about 800 or 1,000.
| | |They have about 20 or 30 rifles.
| | |Lots of cultivation, both in the
| | |valley, inside the mountain, and
| | |down by the road below, but few
| | |cattle. Have suffered a good deal
| | |from raids.
| | |
| | |Road leads due S. through thick
| | |bush towards small jebel, in
| | |direction of E. corner of Talodi.
| | |Good going.
| | |
| 1 | 41¾ |Light forest.
| | |
| 2 | 43¾ |Cross broad sandy khor.
| | |
J. Mavlul | 2 | 45¾ |A small jebel, known as J. Mavlul,
| | |about a mile long, is passed.
| 6¼ | 52 |Close to road on left a small
| | |village on the N.E. spur of
| | |Talodi. Good view of J. Eliri and
| | |all surrounding country.
| | |
_Talodi_ | 1¼ | 53¼ |Corner of main jebel and village
| | |of Tebeldia on right in valley.
| | |
| 2¼ | 55½ |Felaita village entrance to
| | |valley. Mamuria and military post.
| | |Wells and water three feet from
| | |surface (February, 1904).
(v.) J. Talodi to J. Eliri.
| | |The track leads straight out from
| | |the village of Felaita towards the
| | |centre of J. Eliri. First three
| | |miles good going through light
| | |bush.
| | |
| 3 | 3 |Bush gets thicker. Cotton soil,
| | |bad going.
| | |
A hillock | 4½ | 7½ |A small hill on the left is
| | |passed.
| | |
J. Abu Ghor | 3 | 10½ |Track leads S.E. round Jebel Abu
| | |Ghor, a small hill; better going.
| | |
| 4¼ | 14¾ |Thick bamboo clumps obstructing
| | |track for four miles.
| | |
| 7 | 21¾ |Bad going. Cotton soil.
| | |
| 1½ | 23¼ |Good going. Light bush.
| | |
_Tebeldia | 1¼ | 24½ |Two small wells in depression in
wells_ | | |the ground, water two feet from
| | |surface, only sufficient for a
| | |dozen camels. Takes an hour to
| | |fill again.
| | |
_El Egheibish_| 3½ | 28 |A string of five or six wells;
| | |sufficient water for 200 men and
| | |animals. Road hence much cut up by
| | |small khors. Lots of deleib palms.
| | |
_Taira | 4 | 32 |Small village at foot of mountain;
village_ (J. | | |population, about 800 revolted
Eliri) | | |slaves of the Rowauga tribe of the
| | |Hawazma Arabs; much water and
| | |cultivation; Sheikh Rizkalla, 20
| | |rifles. Few cattle. Plenty of
| | |sheep and goats.
| | |
| | |Road good from Taira through dura
| | |cultivation and light thorn bush.
| | |
_Tanguru_ | 4 | 36 |A large village, population about
| | |1,100 revolted slaves of the
| | |Rowauga tribe of the Hawazma
| | |Arabs. Sheikhs Mohammed Geiga and
| | |Ismail Wad Umbaga. About 50
| | |rifles.
| | |
| | |Much water and cultivation, a
| | |stream falls from the cultivated
| | |plateau 700 feet above in the
| | |mountains and there are many wells
| | |besides. There is a rough track
| | |leading up the glen alongside the
| | |waterfall to the Nuba village on
| | |top (Sultan Bilula); population,
| | |1,000 pure Nubas. No clothes at
| | |all, very few rifles, all spears
| | |and knobkerries, lots of dura,
| | |cattle and sheep. They hold little
| | |or no communication with the
| | |villages below; able to hold their
| | |own in case of raids.
| | |
| | |Supplies sufficient for 500 men
| | |for 3 days. Road hence to Kurondo,
| | |a jebel to the S. Good road round
| | |jebel to Dallass.
| | |
_Dallass_ | 4½ | 40½ |Small village; population, about
| | |600 revolted slaves of Abdul Ali
| | |tribe of the Hawazma Arabs. Sheikh
| | |Rizgalla Mursul. Twenty rifles,
| | |sufficient cultivation and water
| | |for own needs.
| | |
_Lakolo_ | 2 | 42½ |Good road round jebel, but stony;
| | |could be easily improved. Large
| | |village; population, about 1,200
| | |revolted slaves of the Khalifa
| | |tribe of Hawazma Arabs. Sheikhs
| | |Zaid Barsham and Abdalla Kaki.
| | |
| | |Lots of water and cultivation.
| | |Road hence up spur of mountain to
| | |Nuba village on top. A solitary
| | |hill ½ mile S.E. of village. Was
| | |told the river was 1½ days’
| | |journey due S., and that the
| | |people took 4 or 5 days more from
| | |there to Kodok by boats. Many
| | |cattle and goats. About 50 rifles.
(vi.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J. El Amira.
J. Eliri | — | ½ |Pass hill on right.
| | |
| 1 | 1½ |Cross khor.
| | |
| 2½ | 4 |Cotton soil and thick thorn
| | |trees—very bad going.
| | |
_Village_ | 2 | 6 |Good going; road curves round
| | |jebel by rocks, and reaches
| 2¼ | 8¼ |village among deleib palms and
| | |tebeldi trees. Little cultivation
| | |and poor water supply; population,
| | |about 200, no arms; very poor.
| | |Remains of Nuba village on top.
| | |Was told the Nubas left the jebel
| | |and went S. to river to live in
| | |Dinka country a year ago. River
| | |said to be 1½ days’ journey due S.
| | |A few sheep and goats.
| | |
| | |Road hence to J. Kuronde, about 5
| | |miles S.W.
(vii.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J. Werna.
Lakolo | — | — |
| | |
| — | ½ |Road runs E., cross khor which
| | |runs along right of road.
| | |
| ½ | 1 |Cross khor. Road runs between low
| | |parallel ridges of hills named
| | |Lohno. Rough and stony.
| | |
| 1 | 2 |Road bends sharp to left.
| | |
_Lohno_ | ½ | 2½ |Village of Lohno, small,
| | |population about 200. Very little
| | |cultivation, bad water supply.
| | |Road now bends to right, crossing
| | |rocky ridge.
| | |
| ½ | 3 |Cross khor, bad going.
| | |
| ¼ | 3¼ |Cross big deep khor, and turn
| | |sharp to right.
| | |
| ¼ | 3½ |Recross big khor, road turns sharp
| | |to left.
| | |
| ½ | 4 |Cross another khor.
| | |
| ½ | 4½ |Going becomes better, road runs
| | |through forest land.
| | |
| 3¼ | 7¾ |Cross khor.
| | |
| ¼ | 8 |Cross khor.
| | |
| 1 | 9 |Going becomes rough.
| | |
| 3½ | 12½ |Turns sharp to left to Nuba
| | |village of
| | |
_Tekeim_ | ½ | 13 |Tekeim, small village; population
| | |about 400; good water supply;
| | |little cultivation, very few
| | |cattle, but lots of goats.
| | |
| 1½ | 14½ |A cross road leads to the Tekeim
| | |dura fields.
| | |
| ½ | 15 |An “agaba.” Camels had to be led
| | |up; cross a khor other side of
| | |“agaba.”
| | |
| 1 | 16 |Cross another khor, going becomes
| | |better.
| | |
| 1¾ | 17¾ |Cross a khor, track leaves hills,
| | |good going.
| | |
El Girid | 1¼ | 19 |A cone-shaped peak amongst hills
| | |to right known as El Girid, about
| | |3 miles off. Bush very open.
| | |
| 4 | 23 |Bad going, cotton soil begins, a
| | |most dreary view.
| | |
| 4 | 27 |Going better.
| | |
| 1 | 28 |Small hill ½ mile to right.
| | |
| 2 | 30 |Low hills ½ mile on left.
| | |
| 4 | 34 |Cross khor.
| | |
_Werna_ | 1 | 35 |Enter Werna hills, a group of five
| | |or six rocky hills about 300 to
| | |400 feet high on smooth open
| | |ground.
| | |
| | |Population about 1,100, mainly
| | |revolted slaves of the Khalifa
| | |tribe of Hawazma Arabs under
| | |Sheikh Abdul Naim. The original
| | |population was Nuba, but are now
| | |very much in the back ground. The
| | |real “Mek” is Abu Gabr Azaz. They
| | |have about 40 rifles.
| | |
| | |Plenty of water and cultivation,
| | |few cattle, many goats. People
| | |trade to river at Kodok.
(viii.) J. Werna to Lukka, _viâ_ J. Morung, J. Gedir and J. Kologi.
Werna | — | — |
| | |
| | |Road takes a wide curve out N. (to
| | |right) to avoid a swamp which
| | |exists all the year round. Good
| | |going until cotton soil, then bad
| — | 2 |going. Very open country.
| | |
Swamp | 2¼ | 4¼ |Cross 100 yards of marshy ground
| | |(end of the swamp).
| | |
| ¾ | 5 |Cultivation for ½ mile, huge crops
| | |of dura.
| | |
| ½ | 5½ |Road turns to left over very bad
| | |cotton soil and through dense
| | |thorn trees.
| | |
| 3 | 8½ |A big khor, water standing in
| | |pools 100 yards long and 4 feet
| | |deep. Duck of two kinds and lots
| | |of game. Roan antelope and tetel.
| | |
| 1½ | 10 |Firm ground; good going.
| | |
| 1 | 11 |Cultivation as far as Morung.
| | |
_Morung_ | 2 | 13 |Village on conical hill;
| | |population: Kawahla tribe of
| | |Hawazma Arabs, much mixed with
| | |Nubas. Sheikh: Hassan Wad Tieb.
| | |
| | |Population about 1,000; 30 rifles.
| | |A fula supplies village with water
| | |until end of January; they then
| | |open wells. Good water supply.
| | |Plenty of cattle, sheep, goats and
| | |donkeys.
| | |
| | |After leaving Morung for first 13½
| | |miles going very good, through
| | |light bush and forest, perfectly
| | |flat; no hills.
| | |
| 13½ | 26½ |A khor, cotton soil and thorn bush
| | |begins.
| | |
| 1 | 27½ |Good going again.
| | |
| 1½ | 29 |Cotton soil, and a big khor with
| | |pools of water, dry by end of
| | |February.
| | |
| 1½ | 30½ |A khor, bad going.
| | |
| 1 | 31½ |Good going.
| | |
| 1 | 32½ |Road bends to right, towards S.E.
| | |corner of Gedir, and runs along
| | |base to corner.
| | |
| 4 | 36½ |Track runs round corner and bends
| | |sharp to left to village of Mek
_Gedir_ | ½ | 37 |Bosh, of Gedir. Population about
| | |1,200, about 60 rifles; fair water
| | |supply 10 feet from surface. Much
| | |dura cultivation. Population:
| | |Nubas. Plenty of cattle and sheep.
| | |
| | |Two other villages, Semat and
| | |Gheibish, described on road to
| | |Kologi.
| | |
| | |Road leaves Mek Bosh’s village and
| | |runs round another spur at E. end
| | |of jebel, passing the Mahdi’s rock
| | |where he used to preach to the
| | |people, and follows North-eastern
| | |face.
| | |
_Semat_ | 1 | 38 |Small village of Semat, about 200
| | |people.
| | |
| 1½ | 39½ |Track enters gorge, rough, stony
| | |going—between main jebel and a
| | |ridge of rocky hills running out
| | |N. to J. Girada, 4 miles off.
| | |
| | |Road clears N. end of the
| | |mountain, and at the end of a spur
_El Gheibish_ | 1 | 40½ |is El Gheibish, a small village of
| | |about 400 population, 40 rifles;
| | |fair water supply, lying among dom
| | |palms. Road hence straight to J.
| | |Lukka.
| | |
| 1¼ | 41¾ |Another road leads over very bad
| | |cotton soil to a khor, light thorn
| | |bush, bad going, cotton soil.
| | |
| 2½ | 44¼ |Firm ground and good going through
| | |light forest, passing one village
| 4¾ | 49 |at 11 miles, and reach main
| | |village of Kologi, lying among dom
| | |palms under the hill.
| | |
_Kologi | — | — |Population of the two villages,
villages_ | | |about 1,500. They are sedentary
| | |Arabs (much crossed by Nubas) of
| | |the Kawahla tribe of the Hawazma
| | |Arabs. Sheikhs Gadum Hassib El
| | |Nebi and Akhman Fadlalla.
| | |
| | |No arms to speak of; quiet people;
| | |do not raid. Fair water supply
| | |from wells; water eight feet from
| | |surface. Much dura cultivation.
| | |Many cattle, sheep and goats.
| | |
| | |Road leads out due N. towards J.
| | |Lukka.
| | |
K. Harrug | ¾ | 49¾ |The khor Harrug; no obstacle.
| | |
| ½ | 50¼ |Cross a ridge; rough stony going.
| | |Road leads straight towards Lukka
| | |between small rocky hills.
| | |
| 3¾ | 54 |Road turns to right to get round
| | |Eastern spurs of J. Lukka, through
| | |thick thorn bush, and across
| | |broken stony ground and small
| | |khors and ridges, and bending
| | |round to left enters a valley and
| | |the village of Lukka.
| | |
_Lukka_ | 2¼ | 56¼ |Kawahla Arabs, with a cross of
| | |Nuba; Sheikh Janga Rahma. A large
| | |village of 1,000 people; no rifles
| | |to speak of. Quiet people; do not
| | |raid. Much dura cultivation. Water
| | |supply bad at camping place and
| | |insufficient for 50 men and
| | |animals. Good clear water is
| | |obtained about 600 feet up the
| | |mountain, where the Nuba colony
| | |get their water. Good camping
| | |ground. Shade. Plenty of supplies,
| | |cattle, sheep, and goats.
(ix.) J. Talodi to J. Kadugli, _viâ_ Kororak, Um Dorein
(in J. Moro), Homra and Sema.
Talodi | — | — |Road leads S.W. along face of
(Felaita) | | |mountain, through the villages of
| | |Felaita, and turns W., following
| — | 2 |Southern and South-western face
| | |along the base of the hills.
| | |
| | |J. Burham is seen 8 or 10 miles
| | |off to the W., and J. Krongo a
| | |long way off to the W.S.W.
| | |
| 5 | 7 |Here the road leaves the mountain
| | |and strikes off across the plain
_Swamp_ | ½ | 7½ |in a W.N.W. direction over cotton
| | |soil to a swamp, water one foot
| | |from surface (February, 1904).
| | |
| 2 | 9½ |Firm, good going.
| | |
| 5 | 14½ |A small rocky wooded hillock on
| | |right of road.
| | |
Kororak | 6 | 20½ |The road, skirting N.E. corner of
| | |Durham, leads straight to Kororak,
| | |a Nuba village in J. Moro. The
| | |village is high up on the face of
| | |the cliff. Population, about
| | |1,500. The various Meks’ names
| | |are:—
| | |
| | |(1) Tambura.
| | |
| | |(2) Toto El Azrak.
| | |
| | |(3) Toto Agari.
| | |
| | |Plenty of dura, very few cattle or
| | |sheep; no rifles.
| | |
| | |People of Talodi come here to buy
| | |grain.
| | |
| | |Mountains of Digig and Masakin to
| | |south. Road follows base of hills
| | |at Kororak for 1 mile, and then
| | |strikes off West across rough
| | |gravelly soil and thorn bush.
| | |
| 2 | 22½ |Cotton soil and thick thorn bush.
| | |
| 1 | 23½ |Firm ground and light bush.
| | |
_Dorein_ | 3½ | 27 |Road strikes the hills again at Um
| | |Dorein. Very small Nuba village on
| | |spur on left of road; small hill
| | |on right. Meks’ names are:—
| | |
| | |(1) Toto El Ahmah;
| | |
| | |(2) Abu Falang.
| | |
| | |Road passes over ridge, still
| | |going West over a small cultivated
| | |plain, with hills ½ mile away to
| | |left and ¾ mile on right.
| | |
| ½ | 27½ |Small rocky ridge in front. Best
| | |road leads to the left and then
| | |turns sharp to right round the
| | |ridge and over broken rocky
| | |ground.
| | |
| 1 | 28½ |Track descends on to very bad
| | |broken cotton soil. Impassable
| | |swamp in rains for animals.
| | |
_Well_ | 1¼ | 29¾ |Track strikes mountain again. Well
| | |(water 2 feet from surface) on
| | |side of road after leaving the
| | |swamp.
| | |
| 2 | 31¾ |Road runs West along south face of
| | |hill and at 2 miles turns half
| | |right. Good going.
| | |
| 1 | 32¾ |Road leaves J. Moro and strikes
| | |off W.N.W. across plain through
| | |light bush; very good going to
| | |
_Homra_ | 4½ | 37¼ |Large Arab village, population
| | |1,200. Great number of cattle,
| | |sheep, and goats. Wells, water 8
| | |feet from surface.
| | |
K. Meshisha | 1½ | 38¾ |Cross big Khor Meshisha, 40 yards
| | |across, 5 feet deep.
| | |
| 1½ | 40¼ |More Arab encampments, inhabited
| | |in rainy season, but deserted now
| | |(March, 1904).
| | |
| 1 | 41¼ |Cross deep khor, 8 feet, 8 yards
| | |wide. Alternate cotton soil and
| | |fair going through thick thorn
| | |bush to
| | |
| 3½ | 44¾ |A khor known at Sema and Kadugli
| | |as the “Wadi.” A small hill on
| | |right; cotton soil.
| | |
| 5 | 49¾ |Alternate good and bad going
| | |through thorn bush.
| | |
| ½ | 50¼ |A shallow khor; light bush.
| | |
Sema | 1½ | 51¾ |Village of Sema, open stony
| | |country at foot of hills;
| | |population about 300. Mek Guru.
| | |
| | |Three or four wells. Water 15
| | |feet; bad supply; only sufficient
| | |for five or six men and animals at
| | |a time.
| | |
| | |From here road turns N.W. and
| | |follows base of hills over stony
| | |ground.
| | |
| 1 | 52¾ |Rough going; pass small rocky hill
| | |on right; a good deal of thorn
| | |bush.
| | |
| 2 | 54¾ |Track becomes clearer and leads
| | |over cotton soil past the wells in
| | |a khor to
| | |
_Kadugli_ | 1 | 55¾ |Kadugli (Arab encampment), a few
| | |tukls against the S.W. end of a
| | |ridge of small hills. Kadugli Nuba
| | |village is 1 mile due E. on the
| | |main range called Ghuhub.
| | |
| | |The Mek is Rahal Andal, an
| | |energetic and trustworthy man. Has
| | |great influence for 50 miles
| | |round.
| | |
| | |The Sudanese infantry barracks, ½
| | |company, are just beyond the
| | |encampment, and the garrison has
| | |opened several wells of excellent
| | |clear water 6 feet from surface.
| | |
| | |Supplies unlimited from Kadugli.
| | |Population of village about 1,200.
| | |They have about 50 rifles.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
[Footnote 28: Between J. Kon and Taiara there is now a more direct
road, _viâ_ Yasin (W. Lloyd, 1903), but water is said to be very
scarce (More, 1904).]
[Footnote 29: It is better to go to Bir El Wuz, N. of J. Um
Durrag.—H. H. S. M.]
[Footnote 30: There is.—H. H. S. M.]
[Footnote 31: In October 1900 Captain W. Lloyd found several pools
of water from 20 to 30 feet in diameter and 4 feet deep; probably
rain-water.]
[Footnote 32: There is a more direct road from Dilling to J. Gulfan,
26 miles.]
[Footnote 33: There is an upper road which does not cross Khor Abu
Habl at all. Distance by it much the same and it is more practicable
in the rains. It passes W. of H. Gad El Kerim.]
CHAPTER IX.
(NORTH-WESTERN SUDAN.)
* * * * *
106.—SELIMA TO NILE OPPOSITE KOSHA.
BY CAPTAIN H. HODGSON, FEBRUARY, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Selima | — | — |Track to river bears at first at
| | |152°, and after ascending out of
| | |valley turns, and, bearing to
| | |point on road 3 miles away, where
| | |the trees of Selima are last
| | |sighted, is 118° (Magnetic). On
| | |top of rise, 6 miles out from
| | |well, a pair of hills are sighted
| | |on horizon, at bearing of 124°
| | |(Magnetic), which are close to the
| | |track and about half way to river.
| | |These twin hills of conical shape
| | |must not be confused with another
| | |pair lying about 80° or 90°. Track
| | |diverges northwards slightly, and
| | |runs at bearing of 119° to a
| | |conspicuous and isolated peak;
| | |best route lies close to the N. of
| | |this peak. Country flat; a sandy
| | |plain, with few land marks.
| | |
First halt | 38½ | 38½ |Halted after going 2 miles past
| | |twin peaks.
| | |
| | |The regular track to the river
| | |goes to Sagiet El Abd, and runs to
| | |S. of a mass of black rocky hills
| | |lying in the centre of a sandy
| | |plain. These hills are spoken of
River Nile, | 41 | 79½ |as Jebel El Tult. I marched to the
opposite to | | |N. of these hills, and struck the
Kosha | | |river opposite to Ginnis, the land
| | |mark being the hill marked Jebel
| | |Hamra on Kosha sheet. General
| | |direction 112°. Jebel Abri is, I
| | |am told, the mountain to march on
| | |when going to Sagiet El Abd.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
107.—DONGOLA TO LAGIA EL KEBIR (ARBAIN ROAD).
BY CAPTAIN H. HODGSON, DECEMBER 16 TO DECEMBER 31, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Dongola | — | — |From Dongola the route lies nearly
| | |due W. to Um Hellal; the chief
| | |landmark is Jebel Nosab. After
| | |leaving Nosab there is a bad bit
| | |of going, entailing about ½ hour’s
| | |walking, descending into valley
| | |containing the wells. Camels can
| | |trot the rest of the way.
| | |
_Um Hellal | 20 | 20 |Is good sweet water; the water
Well_ | | |lies about 9 feet from the
| | |surface; plenty of grazing for
| | |camels. About seven families live
| | |here through the winter, and it is
| | |possible to get goat’s milk and a
| | |few eggs and dates. A ruined
| | |fort, probably 100 years old,
| | |with a well in the yard (water 12
| | |feet from surface) is about ¾ mile
| | |away; it is called El Gab, and
| | |the whole oasis seems to take its
| | |name from it. Um Hellal is also
| | |called Gab El Tahtani.
| | |
_El Sawani_ | 3 | 23 |El Sawani has three wells close
| | |together. A number of sunt trees
| | |give very good shade. There are
| | |more date palms and it is a better
| | |camping-ground than either Shemsi
| | |or Um Hellal. Water is good, and
| | |about 10 feet from the surface;
| | |the wells are in constant use.
| | |About eleven families live here
| | |through the winter, considerably
| | |more during the summer.
| | |
_Gawit_ | — | — |Water reported near surface and
| | |easily obtained; good browsing,
| | |very little shade; all dom palms
| | |burnt by dervishes.
| | |
_Shemsi_ | 10 | 33 |Water near surface, in clay soil
| | |and plentiful; one pan sufficient
| | |for my party (twenty camels and
| | |eighteen men) taking water for 4
| | |days. Two or three good shady
| | |clumps of trees and plenty of
| | |browsing for camels. It would be
| | |difficult to pitch tents owing to
| | |deep sand. The landmark for Shemsi
| | |is Jebel Bowarib, which is a
| | |double hill of two small peaks of
| | |black volcanic rock, standing
| | |solitary about 3 miles N.W.
| | |
_Butta_ | — | — |I did not visit the well, as all
| | |the guides agreed the water was
| | |brackish and bad; the landmark
| | |from Shemsi is a low round hill,
| | |thus, nearly covered with yellow
| | |sand, distinctive, as surrounding
| | |hills are peaked and black rocky
| | |hills. There are apparently about
| | |five hills surrounding the water
| | |pans, each called Jebel Butta.
| | |
Jebel Fantoria| 9 | 42 |About 12 miles N.W. from Shemsi;
| | |stands out well, and can be seen
| | |at a long distance. Charles
| | |Neufeld was captured by the
| | |dervishes close to this hill.
| | |
| | |Between Selem (18½ miles from
| | |Shemsi), where there are some
| | |bushes, and Lagia there is nothing
| | |for camels to feed on, and forage
| | |must be carried. I did not see the
| | |track of any living thing, either
| | |when going or on return. There are
Jebel Abiad | 56 | 98 |no special names for any hills
| | |except Jebel Abiad, the N. end of
| | |a chalk range, which ends in an
| | |abrupt cliff and can be seen at a
| | |long distance.
| | |
El Gir | 36 | 134 |There was reported to be water
| | |last year. We dug a well to depth
| | |of 7 feet, without result. The
| | |Arabs state the country is more
| | |dried up this year than it has
| | |been since the date of the battle
| | |of Toski.
| | |
_Lagia Amran_ | 19½ | 153½ |Lagia the Less, also called Lagia
| | |Amran, from the colour of the
| | |ground, lies in a plain about 8
| | |miles long by 5 miles wide,
| | |surrounded entirely by rocky
| | |hills; there are only two
| | |entrances through encircling hills
| | |that are easy marching. Water lies
| | |within a foot of the surface, and
| | |is very plentiful. Ground consists
| | |of red clay with drifts of sand;
| | |the Arabs say there was formerly
| | |no sand, and that during last few
| | |years it is gradually covering
| | |ground, probably owing to dry
| | |seasons.
| | |
| | |My party dug a water pan out of
| | |the clay (3½ feet deep and 12 feet
| | |circumference). It was quite full
| | |of good water, with a certain
| | |amount of clay in solution, which
| | |settled on standing, on our return
| | |2 days later. Without this pan
| | |there was a plentiful supply of
| | |water from older diggings which
| | |the camel-men cleared of sand.
| | |There are some bushes and small
| | |trees, about ½ mile from the
| | |water, which afford feeding for
| | |camels. We also found water about
| | |½ mile to S.W. of old water holes.
| | |
_Lagia Kebir_ | 12½ | 166 |Or Lagia Agar. Some five or six
| | |pans of water; good and near the
| | |surface, springing from similar
| | |soil to Lagia the Less, but not so
| | |abundant. We dug for water in
| | |three likely places, about ¼ mile
| | |to the W., without result. The
| | |wells lie in an open plain; no
| | |vegetation near, except about six
| | |to ten small trees about 3½ miles
| | |to W. giving a little feeding for
| | |camels. To the N. the plain is
| | |shut in by a steep rocky ridge of
| | |hills, and the road to Selima
| | |Wells lies across it; on reaching
| | |summit of ridge there is only a
| | |stretch of rock and stones to be
| | |seen. Arabs state it is the road
| | |to Selima, and there is no
| | |grazing. To the S., the road to
| | |Sultan Well (the place where
| | |Natron is found) lies across an
| | |open plain, and is easy going. The
| | |tracks spread considerably and
| | |extend across a width of over a
| | |mile.
| | |
| | |An oasis, called Tura, is reported
| | |to lie 4 days’ journey in a S.W.
| | |direction, containing date trees,
| | |which is visited at date harvest
| | |time by the Bedai tribe. Sheikh
| | |Fadl El Mula is the only one of
| | |the party who had been there, and
| | |he said the water is very bad.
| | |Except for the above, the guides
| | |say they have no knowledge of any
| | |water to the W. of Lagia, and that
| | |there is no road with a direction
| | |of N. and S. lying to the W. of
| | |Lagia.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
108.—DONGOLA TO BIR SULTAN (ARBAIN ROAD).
BY CAPTAIN H. HODGSON, FEBRUARY, 1903.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Dongola, or | — | — |After half an hour’s marching,
Gharbi Dongola| | |reached buildings of former
| | |District, which stand 1 mile from
| | |mosque on E. bank by range-finder,
| | |and at an angle of 78° (magnetic).
| | |Left at 9 a.m. Going easy over
| | |hard sand. Marched parallel with
| | |river until near Kheleiwa as
| | |marked on map (Debba Sheet 45,
| | |E.), then turned W. and marched
| | |about 2 hours to well.
| | |
| | |At Kheleiwa on river there are old
| | |ruins. A legend has it that there
| | |is an underground passage from
| | |these ruins to the well in the
| | |desert to the W.
| | |
_Kheleiwa | 19¾ | 19¾ |Kheleiwa well stands in the centre
Well_ (1st | | |of a mound covered with broken
halt) | | |burnt bricks; the first 6 or 8
| | |feet from the surface is built
| | |with stone, then it is dug into
| | |solid rock; on lowering a candle
| | |to within 6 feet of the water, the
| | |sides disappear from view, and
| | |apparently there is a wide chamber
| | |at bottom of well; candle burnt
| | |freely, water 2½ feet deep, depth
| | |of well to water 96 feet.
| | |
_Bir El | 32¼ | 52 |Marched at 2.30 a.m. The track is
Marghum_ (2nd | | |well defined, being the main road
halt) | | |from Debba to Wad El Gab, and is
| | |easy going the whole way,
| | |direction about 330° (magnetic).
| | |About 24 miles from Kheleiwa Well
| | |ground begins to fall, and the
| | |Wadi El Gab may be said to begin.
| | |
| | |El Marghum is the most southern
| | |well in El Gab and one of the
| | |deepest, being about 20 feet deep
| | |before reaching water, and is
| | |stone lined, water good, cool, and
| | |pleasant to drink, depth of water
| | |3½ feet, and reported always
| | |plentiful. This well is said to be
| | |6 hours from Khandak with an easy
| | |road. Near well are one or two
| | |good sayal trees and selem bushes,
| | |but no date palms.
| | |
_Awene_ | — | — |Marched at 7.30 a.m., track from
| | |El Marghum to Um Hagar, direction
| | |330°. After 1½ miles a track
| | |branches to Shoki at direction
| | |295°. Sheikh Mohammed Awadalla,
| | |the head of the Gunganab, one of
| | |the largest of the Kababish sub-
| | |tribes, lives at Awene. The water
| | |of this well is about 8 feet from
| | |surface and luke warm, it lies
| | |about 6 miles from Marghum; there
| | |are a number of fine sayal trees
| | |about, as well as date and dom
| | |palms; good shade.
| | |
_El Agari_ | — | — |This is a small well without stone
| | |facing, water cooler and
| | |pleasanter to drink than Awene,
| | |lies 1½ miles from latter.
| | |Surrounded by selem bushes.
| | |
Id Wad Medawi | — | — |Dwelling of the former Sheikh of
| | |Gunganab, an old man, reported age
| | |115 years, very feeble; a number
| | |of date trees near here, and track
| | |to Millan passes a number of tukls
| | |used during date harvest season.
| | |
_Bir Millan_ | 14 | 66 |This well, about 14 miles from
| | |Marghum, is surrounded by about 20
| | |big sayal trees giving good shade,
| | |there is also a lot of littel
| | |shrub on dunes near; it is
| | |impossible to approach well from
| | |S., owing to the shifting sand
| | |dunes; this well is practically
| | |the limit of the Wadi El Gab.
| | |Water good and plentiful.
| | |
| | |From Millan track runs nearly due
| | |W., crossing a district called
| | |Imsinni, where a number of goats
| | |are grazed, being watered every
| | |third day at Millan.
| | |
Um Hagar (3rd | 6½ | 72½ |A stone-lined well, at present
Halt) | | |filled with sand to within 6 feet
| | |of the mouth. Sand is damp and
| | |might easily be cleared. The
| | |Kababish do not use well for fear
| | |of the Bedaiat, who raided this
| | |well and Matassi in 1902. Good
| | |grazing for camels.
| | |
_Matassi_ (4th| 9 | 81½ |From Um Hagar track runs nearly
halt) | | |due W., the going is indifferent;
| | |a little grazing on hadr on the
| | |way. Matassi lies in a plain some
| | |5 or 6 square miles in extent;
| | |water is very plentiful and about
| | |3 feet from surface; watered 70 or
| | |80 camels from the four or five
| | |pans that were open with ease; the
| | |water is cool, pleasant to drink,
| | |and seems to have the property of
| | |cooling very rapidly after
| | |boiling. Kababish captured camels
| | |from Bedaiat here two years ago. A
| | |few wild date palms, but
| | |practically no shelter from sun or
| | |wind.
| | |
__Murrat_ | 5 | 86½ |General direction W. Murrat, about
| | |5 miles from Mutassi, is a low-
| | |lying plain, containing a few
| | |selem bushes, and three or four
| | |groups of date and dom palms;
| | |water easily found, but it is
| | |bitter and undrinkable; going
| | |fair; black rock predominates.
| | |
El Hofra | 4½ | 91 |A plain encircled on E. and S. by
| | |a ridge, and on the N. by high
| | |sand dunes, some littel shrub, and
| | |a few dom palms. One dom palm
| | |which formerly had a well next it
| | |is now buried in a sand dune which
| | |has moved a ¼ of a mile in last 10
| | |years. No shelter from N. wind or
| | |sun.
| | |
Sixth halt | 23½ | 114½ |General direction 230° to 240°,
| | |going easy; about 12th or 13th
| | |mile from El Hofra found a few
| | |patches of grass, indicating rain
| | |here last season. About 17th mile
| | |going becomes more difficult and
| | |ground rises. At 20th mile a high
| | |conical (?) is reached, from which
| | |plateau of Jebel Abiad is to be
| | |seen; erected a pile of stones at
| | |this point. Ground then slopes
| | |down, and track lies through a
| | |depression until at 23rd mile a
| | |plain is reached, extending 17
| | |miles to bluff of Jebel Abiad.
| | |Here there is some hadr grass,
| | |affording some grazing. The plain
| | |is scattered with lava-like
| | |stones.
| | |
Seventh halt | 32½ | 147 |General direction due W. to a
(on plateau of| | |ravine in Jebel Abiad. The J.
J. Abiad) | | |Abiad is a steep bluff of gypsum,
| | |running from N. to S.; it is the
| | |same range as is skirted by track
| | |from Dongola to Lagia Wells. After
| | |ascending bluff direction is
| | |W.S.W., across a plateau with a
| | |very gentle slope down towards the
| | |W.; surface is shingle scattered
| | |with agates and flints. Could
| | |obtain no shelter to halt near.
| | |
Tundubi (8th | 24 | 171 |About 1 hour after leaving last
halt) | | |halt passed a rocky patch of
| | |ground, where the track is well
| | |defined, the only place where old
| | |lines of tracks are seen, being
| | |about 18 miles from bluff. About
| | |28 miles from bluff crossed a
| | |valley containing gottab grass and
| | |some other grazing. At Tundubi a
| | |well had been opened recently, and
| | |my party, after deepening it to
| | |nearly 30 feet, were able to water
| | |about six camels and fill up
| | |skins. Latest report is that the
| | |well has been filled in
| | |maliciously. There is abundance of
| | |gottab, hadr, and akol, giving
| | |good grazing, also some fine
| | |tundub trees and selem bushes. A
| | |quantity of senna also grows here.
| | |
Ninth halt | 27 | 198 |General direction W.S.W. (at 250°
| | |by P. compass), very easy
| | |undulating country.
| | |
Tenth halt | 12½ | 210½ |About 31 miles from Tundubi met a
| | |caravan, on descending into a
| | |valley, along which the track
| | |lies. Easy going. No shelter. Saw
| | |ostrich tracks.
| | |
Eleventh halt | 28½ | 239 |Easy going all day; general
| | |direction W. Jebel Raya is seen
| | |some 10 miles away to the S.; it
| | |lies on the road from El Ain to
| | |Bir Sultan. Found a good place to
| | |halt, with a few tundub trees and
| | |some hadr scrub.
| | |
Twelfth halt | 23 | 262 |Same general direction W. After 3
| | |miles descended into a deep sandy
| | |khor, containing some hadr scrub
| | |(difficult going), marched along
| | |it for an hour in direction 250°;
| | |then crossed a rocky ridge for 10
| | |miles, then an open plain of
| | |shingle for 5 miles, and down
| | |another khor of deep sand with
| | |clumps of hadr scrub in it,
| | |direction 260°. Then direction
| | |changed constantly to avoid
| | |conical hills. Halted on rocky
| | |ground.
| | |
_Milani_ | — | — |Two hours’ easy marching and then
| | |2 hours across an exposed plateau
| | |of rocky ground, before reaching a
| | |steep descent down to Milani; a
| | |thick clump of selem trees in the
| | |Natron valley. At Milani water is
| | |apparently very plentiful, the
| | |sand between the dunes being wet
| | |and brown. Did not try to obtain
| | |water, as, though drinkable, it is
| | |reported not to be so good as the
| | |water found at Sultan, 3 miles
| | |away.
| | |
_Bir Sultan_ | — | — |Sultan, a low-lying area of about
| | |a ¼ mile square of uneven ground
| | |covered with tussocks of halfa
| | |grass. Water easily obtained and
| | |plentiful. I found two or three
| | |pans open, at which animals can
| | |get to the water themselves. There
| | |are five or six date palms, also
| | |grasses such as tamam, halfa,
| | |taklis, but no shrubs, at Sultan.
| | |It lies nearly due S. of J.
| | |Kashaf.
| | |
_Natron | 21 | 283 |The best natron bed lies about 2
diggings (13th| | |miles away from the water at
halt) | | |Sultan by the shortest and most
| | |direct route to the river, it is
| | |probably not more than 250 miles
| | |instead of the 283 I travelled.
| | |The diggings have the appearance
| | |of a sandy salt pan, from which
| | |sea water has run off, the sand
| | |being encrusted with a white salt-
| | |like substance. To obtain the
| | |natron the upper surface of sand,
| | |about 2 inches to 4 inches, is
| | |cleared away, until the natron, a
| | |substance resembling rock salt, is
| | |reached. The top part is usually
| | |bad, being half sand; then there
| | |is a seam of ½ inch to 2 inches of
| | |good natron, again below a little
| | |bad natron, and below all sand
| | |again. Sometimes all the natron is
| | |spoilt by being mixed with sand.
| | |The whole place is scattered with
| | |scores and scores of oryx and
| | |addax horns, which seem to have
| | |been the tool, since time
| | |immemorial, with which to dig out
| | |the natron.
| | |
Jebel Kashaf | — | — |Jebel Kashaf lies 2,400 yards from
| | |the natron diggings, and E. of
| | |them at direction 133°; it is a
| | |high conical hill centrally
| | |situated in the northern part of
| | |the valley, and from its summit
| | |the whole valley and various
| | |halting places are overlooked. To
| | |the S. and S.W. is a level plain,
| | |reaching to the horizon without
| | |landmarks.
| | |
| | |The Arbain road runs S.S.W.
| | |apparently, to a place called Domi
| | |(1 day), where there are a few dom
| | |palms, and then from there
| | |branches to Meidob and to Zaghawa,
| | |which latter is reported to be 5
| | |or 6 days from Natron valley in a
| | |S.W. direction.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
109.—DEBBA TO EL OBEID.
(ROUTE DURING RAINS).
COMPILED FROM VARIOUS SOURCES, APRIL, 1903.
(_Distances only roughly approximate_).
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Debba | — | — |
| | |
_Um Belila_ | 35 | 35 |Hole in sandy bed of wadi, about
| | |12 feet down to water’s edge.
| | |Excellent water and any quantity,
| | |amount depends on digging.
| | |
_El Amra_ | 43 | 78 |Water good and plentiful,
| | |obtainable by digging in sandy bed
_Hobagi_ | 67 | 145 | of wadi. From here during the
| | |rains travellers go to Hobagi,
| | |where there is a hofra which
| | |contains no water in the dry
| | |season.
| | |
_Haraza_ | 60 | 205 |Water good and plentiful from a
| | |spring at foot of jebel. From
| | |thence _viâ_ Kajmar to El Obeid.
| | |_Vide_ also route 81, Chap. VIII.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
N.B.—During the dry season, merchants do not travel _viâ_ Hobagi,
as the hofra there is then dry. A considerable détour is made from
El Amra to Elai, thence to Habisa, where there many wells, and thence
to Bagbag Wells and Kajmar.
110.—DEBBA TO OMDURMAN.
MAJOR H. V. RAVENSCROFT, JANUARY, 1900.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Debba Camp | — | — |On leaving camp, a southerly
| | |direction is taken over sandy
| | |ground, leaving Wadi El Melh on
| | |right.
| | |
J. Khattab | 7 | 7 |Hill on either side of track.
| | |
_J. Kufri_ | 3 | 10 |Two wells on track, one in use,
| | |recently repaired by Government.
| | |
J. Birget El | 11 | 21 |Water about 55 feet from surface;
Merafib | | |no rope, so could not taste it.
| | |Six miles from left of track.
| | |
| | |Open desert.
| | |
Kaser El | 4 | 25 |One old well called Atesh, closed
Fokani | | |for a long time. Well-marked
| | |track.
| | |
Khor Kaser | 1 | 26 |On right of track, 400 yards wide.
| | |After this the road runs in khor
| | |for 10 miles, as far as El Magari.
| | |
El Magari | 10⅔ | 36⅔ |
| | |
J. Nesub El | 8 | 44⅔ |Range of hills 1½ miles from right
Arda | | |of track. After this the hills
| | |gradually close in to right of
| | |track.
| | |
| 3⅓ | 48 |Track passes over low hills. Nesub
| | |El Arda 80 feet high. After ½ mile
| | |another small detached hill,
| | |similar to El Magari, and low
| | |hills on right, 400 yards from
| | |track.
| | |
Wadi Maleiga | 2 | 50 |Good grazing for camels.
| | |
_Abu Sayal_ | 4 | 54 |Good water in small khor about 600
| | |yards from right of track can be
| | |got for a distance of 150 yards by
| | |digging 8 feet to 10 feet from
| | |surface. One small green tree and
| | |usher bushes mark spot. Water at
| | |present plentiful, but guides
| | |state that in dry season supply
| | |becomes small. No people here.
| | |
J. Nesub El | 1⅓ | 55⅓ |Range of hills 1,500 yards on
Gelud | | |right of track. No more hills on
| | |left.
| | |
_Wadi Gelud_ | 1⅔ | 57 |One well reported under hill,
| | |supply small in dry season, about
| | |3 miles from right of track. Khor
| | |500 yards wide. Good grazing for
| | |camels.
| | |
Ereishat | 5⅔ | 62⅔ |Dry grass and a few bushes. In
| | |Gordon’s time there was a large
| | |shelter here for travellers and
| | |merchants.
| | |
J. Nesub El | — | — |Three miles from right of track. A
Shabra | | |continuous range of low hills on
| | |right. Open country on left.
| | |
J. Abu Sideir | 2⅔ | 65⅓ |Two miles from right of track.
| | |From here a track to El Boreiga
| | |winds off ½ mile right.
| | |
Khor Abu | 3⅓ | 66⅔ |1,000 yards wide; good grazing for
Sideir | | |camels. Range of black hills 3
| | |miles from right of track. After
| | |1⅓ miles track crosses another
| | |piece of Khor Abu Sideir and two
| | |other small khors, the hills on
| | |right being then 6 miles off; on
| | |left flat open country.
| | |
Wadi Umanagil | 6 | 72⅔ |After this low range of hills 600
| | |yards from and parallel to track,
_Abu Heglig_ | 2 | 74⅔ |a few flocks grazing here in Khor
(water) | | |Boreiga. Good water in khor to be
| | |obtained for a distance by digging
| | |10 feet from surface.
| | |
| | |Khor 600 yards to 800 yards wide;
| | |good grazing; six wells in use
| | |here.
| | |
| 2 | 76⅔ |Track passes through gap in spur
| | |running from two hills called Um
| | |Kheirit and El Wabri, 2 miles from
| | |right of track. J. El Minget
| | |(perhaps 30 miles distant) visible
| | |on left; salt is obtained from
| | |this mountain.
| | |
_Khor Wabri_ | 1⅓ | 80 |Hills 4 miles from right of track.
| | |Water in khor like a canal, 4
| | |yards broad, and 4 feet 6 inches
| | |in depth. After this open desert;
| | |rain marks; no track.
| | |
| 2⅓ | 82⅓ |Small low sand hills on either
| | |side of the track. Going a little
| | |heavy for first time since leaving
| | |Debba.
| | |
Wadi Abu | 5 | 87⅓ |Broad khor; some grass and bushes;
Hashim | | |good going; open desert on both
| | |sides.
| | |
Dondib El Gedi| 1 | 88⅓ |Old halting place, a few bushes on
| | |either side of track. After heavy
| | |rains Arabs used to sow dura here.
| | |
Wadi Drais | 1⅔ | 90 |Low hill 1½ miles long, 1 mile
| | |from left of track; well reported
| | |by guide under hill, spot marked
| | |by big tree; well not in use. This
| | |well is in Wadi Abu Usher.
| | |
Wadi Abu Usher| 2⅓ | 92⅓ |Broad khor, dry grass and usher
| | |bushes. J. Abu Usher 1 mile from
| | |right of track; long black hill.
| | |
Khor Derail | 2⅔ | 95 |Small khor; black rocks and hills
| | |on right of track.
| | |
_Abu Inderab_ | 2 | 97 |One well in khor in a sort of cave
| | |15 feet deep; water plentiful,
| | |very clear and sweet. Men have to
| | |descend into the cave to get
| | |water, which is 2½, feet deep;
| | |guide reports water plentiful here
| | |at all times of the year. Sides of
| | |cave hard sandy clay; diameter of
| | |cave at surface 6 feet, opening
| | |out as you go down. Khor 120 yards
| | |wide. Usher bushes and some
| | |grazing for camels. Range of black
| | |hills 200 feet to 300 feet high,
| | |2½ miles from track on right and
| | |remaining parallel with it.
| | |
Khor El Kelab | 3½ | 100½ |Broad khor, a lot of usher bushes,
(Warrania) | | |nearly all dying. J. El Kelab 3
| | |miles from right of track, with
| | |low range of black hills between
| | |track and it. Track in khor for 1⅓
| | |miles.
| | |
Khor El Kelab | 1⅓ | 101⅚ |Joins Khor El Kelab (Warrania),
(Godamia) | | |and the two khors then run east on
| | |left of track. Jebel El Kelab a
| | |continuous range 4 miles long, and
| | |2 miles to 3 miles from right of
| | |track.
| | |
| 3⅔ | 105½ |Beginning of J. Gumr 1 mile from
| | |right of track. Going sandy and
| | |good; tufts of dry grass.
| | |
_Wadi Gumr_ | 2⅔ | 108⅙ |To east of track, in khor, good
(water) | | |place for sowing dura after heavy
| | |rains. Excellent grazing about 3
| | |miles west of track; water very
| | |near surface and can always be got
| | |in khor by digging. A few Arabs
| | |here. Range of hills, J. Gumr, 1½
| | |miles from right of track.
| | |
J. Maagil Gumr| 3 | 111⅙ |One thousand yards from left of
| | |track, with low spur running down
| | |to track, and another running
| | |parallel with road for 1½ miles.
| | |
| 1 | 112⅙ |Low hill on right, close to track,
| | |½ mile long.
| | |
| ⅔ | 112⅚ |Continuous range of hills on right
| | |3 miles off. A gap opposite here,
| | |300 yards long, called Feg Gumr.
| | |J. Wad El Melih begins after Feg
| | |Wadi Gumr. Wadi Gumr runs under
| | |range parallel to it.
| | |
Um Aragib | 1⅓ | 114⅙ |On left of track; bushes, black
| | |stones; good going on ten to
| | |twelve camel tracks. Hill on right
| | |5 miles distant.
| | |
J. Maagil Wad | 3⅓ | 117½ |Small hill 300 yards from right of
El Melih | | |track, with prominent point 60
| | |feet high.
| | |
Khor Wad El | 1½ | 119 |Many dead usher bushes.
Melih | | |
| | |
| 1½ | 120½ |On right, range of hills, after
| | |being 10 miles distant, comes in
| | |to within ½ mile of track, and
| | |from here runs parallel with it.
| | |
| 2 | 122½ |End of J. Wad El Melih 1½ miles
| | |from right of track, after this J.
| | |El Shab.
| | |
Khor El Shab | 3⅓ | 125⅚ |El Shab 2½ miles from right of
| | |track; good going.
| | |
Khor Abu Usher| 3 | 128⅚ |Small khor; dying osier bushes,
| | |some grazing. Hills on right, 6
| | |miles off. Khor on right winding
| | |from S. crosses track here.
| | |
| | |Well on right of road, no water,
| | |only in rainy season.
| | |
Khor Abuera | 4 | 132⅚ |Running from J. Abuera about 10
| | |miles on right, khor finishes
| | |here, none on left of track.
| | |Excellent going, well marked
| | |track, rain marks, flat open
| | |country, nothing in sight.
| | |
Khor Bohat | 7⅔ | 140½ |Small khor, some bushes. J. Bohat
| | |10 miles on right.
| | |
Gedemtina | 3 | 143½ |Old halting place. A few bushes,
| | |hard, sandy.
| | |
| 4⅓ | 147⅚ |Wadi Gabra on left, about 3 miles
| | |off; this khor stretches to Korti.
| | |
Wadi Medeisis | 1⅔ | 149½ |From hill on right joins Wadi
| | |Gabra, 2 miles from left of track.
| | |
_Gabra Wells_ | 6⅓ | 155⅚ |Four wells, water always
| | |plentiful, very sweet and clear,
| | |55 feet from surface; many flocks
| | |and some cows water here; wells in
| | |open space in middle of thick
| | |trees, with zeriba for flocks.
| | |
| | |Before arriving at wells track for
| | |4 miles through trees, mostly
| | |sunt, and nearly all dying; plenty
| | |of dry wood. Dervish zeriba S. of
| | |wells with Yunis’ house in centre
| | |and tukls of the Jehadia round it.
| | |
| 2 | 157⅚ |Up to here marked track, after
| | |this only visible at places owing
| | |to sand covering footprints on
| | |hard ground; uneven, but going
| | |good; bushes and grass everywhere;
| | |good grazing; gazelle.
| | |
Gerguf | 3 | 160⅚ |
| | |
Goz Abu Dluet | 5⅓ | 166⅙ |Excellent dry grass and bushes for
| | |camel grazing.
| | |
El Hanakat | 4 | 170⅙ |Low spur on either side of track,
| | |which is more distinct here and in
| | |a sort of khor 80 yards wide full
| | |of green bushes.
| | |
El Shegeig | 2⅔ | 172⅚ |About 1 mile on left of track;
| | |thick trees.
| | |
Id Anal | 4⅓ | 177⅙ |Sandy; trees and grass; ground
| | |slightly undulating.
| | |
Khor Id Anal | 3⅓ | 180½ |Very narrow khor; rain marks;
| | |sandy going.
| | |
Gala Fashfos | 8⅓ | 188⅚ |Main peak of Omdurman mountain in
| | |sight (Abu Leidat).
| | |
| 2 | 190⅚ |Small round hill (El Gesi) on
| | |left, 3 miles off.
| | |
El Hafir | 1⅓ | 192⅙ |J. El Magrun on left.
| | |
El Auti | 7⅓ | 199½ |J. Abu Leidat on left.
| | |
El Adara | 1 | 200½ |
| | |
| 1 | 201½ |Track goes between Merkhiat Hills.
| | |
J. Nesub El | 1 | 202½ |One isolated hill 1,000 yards from
Merkhiat | | |left of track.
| | |
| | |Merkhiat Hills on right.
| | |
| 1⅓ | 204⅙ |Track passes through gap in Nesub
| | |El Merkhiat, one hill on left
| | |close to path, on right hills come
| | |down close to track.
| | |
| 2⅔ | 206⅚ |Rifle ranges 1,200 yards on right.
| | |Going sandy, heavier than during
| | |any other part of route.
| | |
Omdurman | 1⅔ | 208½ |Beginning of houses.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
NOTE.—There are only four places on this road which can be relied
on for water at all times of the year, viz., Wabri, Abu Inderab,
Gumr, and Gabra.
111.—DEBBA TO OMDURMAN, _viâ_ ELAI.
COMPILED FROM VARIOUS SOURCES, APRIL, 1903.
N.B. This is not the direct road, but water is obtainable more
frequently. Distances only roughly approximate.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Debba | — | — |
| | |
_Um Belila_ | 35 | 35 |Water plentiful. Three wells, 12
| | |feet deep (James, 1902).
| | |
_El Amri_ | 43 | 78 |Water plentiful (native
| | |information only).
| | |
_Abu Tawagia_ | 25 | 103 |One well, 8 feet deep; good water
| | |(James, 1902).
| | |
_Elai_ | 18 | 121 |Water, scarce in dry season, from
| | |two stone-lined wells (Currie,
| | |1903). From here, shortest way is
| | |to Gambar, but road stony and bad,
| | |and merchants generally go to Gumr
| | |(25 miles). _Vide_ Route 110.
| | |
_Gambar_ | 37 | 158 |Wells, water (?) (native
| | |information only).
| | |
_Gabra_ | 24 | 182 |Water plentiful, from many wells.
| | |
Omdurman | 56 | 238 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
112.—AMBUGOL OR KORTI TO METEMMA.
FROM REPORTS BY MR. FOWLER, 1871, AND NUMEROUS OFFICERS OF THE NILE
EXPEDITION, 1885.
----------------+--------------------+--------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
----------------+-------------+------+--------------------------------
Ambugol | — | — |Possesses abundant indications,
| | |in the remains of an ancient
| | |masonry pier and in the
| | |considerable ruins in the town,
| | |of having been formerly of much
| | |greater importance. It was
| | |selected as the point at which
| | |the projected Sudan railway
| | |should leave the Nile, and
| | |strike across the Bayuda Desert.
| | |
_Korti_ | — | 4 |From Ambugol the caravan route
| | |follows the bank of the river
| | |for a few miles to Korti, and
| | |then branches off into the
| | |desert in a westerly direction.
| | |
| | |After about 25 miles, it strikes
| | |the Wadi Abu Gir and continues
| | |along it for many miles. Mr.
| | |Fowler states that the water is
| | |to be procured by sinking wells
| | |along the course of this wadi,
| | |and that its bed for its entire
| | |length is filled with all the
| | |vegetation of the Bayuda Desert—
| | |shrubs and grass, which are
| | |invaluable both as fuel, and as
| | |food for flocks.
| | |
| | |Water reservoirs, in tins, were
| | |established in March, 1885, at
| | |hills 12 and 30 miles
| | |respectively from Korti, as the
| | |wells at Hambok and Haweiyat
| | |showed signs of giving out.
| | |
_Hambok_ | 47 | 51 |Wells.
| | |
_El Haweiyat_ | 8 | 59 |Wells. Yielding in February,
| | |1885, 310 gallons daily, but
| | |decreasing. Three wells, 6 feet
| | |deep, open in February, 1897.
| | |
| | |Near the mountain of El
| | |Mesalima, situated a little to
| | |the right of the track, there is
| | |an abundance of small timber.
| | |
| | |In December, 1871, and January,
| | |1872, water in pools was found
| | |in many of the ravines issuing
| | |from the Jebel Gilif range. The
| | |plain S. of this range has a
| | |good deal of scrub upon it, and
| | |is said to be flooded
| | |occasionaly during the rains to
| | |a depth of 3 feet to 4 feet.
| | |
Miljik | — | — |Five miles E.S.E. of Haweiyat
| | |and 1½ miles from the track;
| | |reported to have a good supply
| | |of rainwater like Jakdul. Found
| | |to be dry, February, 1885.
| | |
_Abu Alik_ | — | — |Four miles E.S.E. of Miljik.
| | |Good supply of water in wells 6
| | |to 8 feet deep. Too far from
| | |track for practical use.
| | |
_Zobrik El Kelb_| 14 | 73 |A plainly defined hill of
(Miglig) | | |curious shape. One mile N. of it
| | |are the wells of Miglig (Megaga,
| | |or El Kelb). Natural reservoirs
| | |of rainwater. These are two
| | |pools situated up a narrow
| | |ravine. The lowest, containing
| | |5,000 gallons, is fit for camels
| | |and horses. The upper pool, 100
| | |yards beyond, contains over
| | |100,000 gallons of pure clear
| | |water. Tanks full, February,
| | |1897, but water unclean; tastes
| | |stagnant.
| | |
| | |These estimates (14th February,
| | |1885, by Colonel Todd, R.E.)
| | |were taken when the upper pool
| | |was 4 feet, and the lower 7
| | |feet, below its high water
| | |level.
| | |
_Abu Halfa_ | 17 | 90 |The wells of Abu Halfa, situated
| | |about 3½ miles N. of the camel
| | |track, consist of holes made in
| | |dry river bed. They vary in
| | |depth from 5 feet to 10 feet,
| | |and in diameter from 3 feet to 4
| | |feet.
| | |
| | |Some distance further up the
| | |Wadi Abu Halfa there is a large
| | |pool surrounded by dom palms,
| | |which is said never to be dry.
| | |Close by this pool is a conical
| | |black hill, surmounted by a
| | |natural breastwork; excellent
| | |landmark.
| | |
| | |Water is to be found nearly
| | |everywhere in this wadi, a foot
| | |or two below the surface, and is
| | |visible in several places at the
| | |foot of rocks.
| | |
| | |To a breadth of ½ mile on each
| | |side of river bed, acacia trees
| | |abound, and there is beautiful
| | |tabas grass; this, with the
| | |trees, forms the principal food
| | |of the flocks and herds—goats,
| | |camels, and cattle—belonging to
| | |the desert Arabs.
| | |
| | |For about 6 miles after leaving
| | |Abu Halfa, the ground falls
| | |slightly, about half this
| | |distance being over a sandy
| | |desert, with sandstone rocks
| | |cropping up all round.
| | |
| | |The ground then rises gently,
| | |and enters country wooded
| | |thickly with acacia, and covered
| | |with coarse grass.
| | |
| | |On the W. stand isolated rocks
| | |of sandstone, and on the E. is
| | |seen the extension of the range
| | |from Abu Halfa, which vanishes
| | |with an abrupt turn eastward.
| | |
_Jakdul_ | 10 | 100 |The wells of Jakdul, situated in
| | |one of the torrent gorges of
| | |Jebel Gilif, about 3 miles from
| | |the camel track, consist of
| | |three large water-worn cavities,
| | |each at a different level, and
| | |shut in by precipitous cliffs.
| | |The lowest of the pools forms an
| | |irregular oval in plan, about
| | |120 feet long by 60 feet broad,
| | |and for three-fourths of its
| | |length it is enclosed between
| | |perpendicular rocks. Whether any
| | |labour has been expended in
| | |making these excavations it is
| | |impossible to say, but it is
| | |evident that the cavities have
| | |been mainly produced by the
| | |torrents rushing through a small
| | |passage about 8 feet above the
| | |highest water level, and thus
| | |wearing away the softer portions
| | |of the rock to a considerable
| | |depth below the ground level.
| | |
| | |These reservoirs contain always
| | |sufficient water for two years’
| | |supply of the existing demand,
| | |and are never dry. The lowest
| | |well is daily visited by large
| | |numbers of animals, and the
| | |water is consequently unfit for
| | |any other use. The second pool,
| | |about 10 feet above the first
| | |one, lies in the bottom of an
| | |almost inaccessible channel, the
| | |sides of the gorge rising in
| | |some places nearly
| | |perpendicularly to a height of
| | |about 80 feet from the water.
| | |
| | |The approximate length of this
| | |pool is 200 feet, and its width
| | |is 40 feet. The quality of the
| | |water is excellent, and from
| | |this and the upper pool the
| | |skins used to carry drinking
| | |water are filled, a cord and
| | |bucket being employed to raise
| | |the water. The third pool is
| | |about 5 feet higher than the
| | |second, and lies in a direction
| | |at right angles to it. Its size
| | |is about 80 feet by 15 feet.
| | |
| | |A very tortuous and contracted
| | |channel, about 20 feet long, and
| | |3 feet wide at the bottom, forms
| | |the connection between the
| | |second and the lowest pool.
| | |Above this the gorge widens out,
| | |and by the construction of a
| | |dam, a fine reservoir and ample
| | |water supply might be obtained.
| | |
| | |These wells, forming the chief
| | |water supply on the
| | |Korti—Metemma route, were found
| | |ample for the requirements of
| | |the Desert Column, 2nd January
| | |to 15th March, 1885, but would
| | |not have lasted another
| | |fortnight.
| | |
| | |About 1 mile up the ravine,
| | |above the wells, are two more
| | |reservoirs, each holding
| | |(January, 1885) about the same
| | |as the middle Jakdul reservoir.
| | |They were not used in 1885.
| | |Numerous gazelle.
| | |
| | |After leaving Jakdul, the
| | |country for a few miles is
| | |entirely devoid of vegetation,
| | |but further on it is for the
| | |most part covered with a sandy
| | |deposit, producing tabas grass
| | |and acacia.
| | |
_El Fura_ | — | — |Eight or nine miles east of the
| | |wells of Jakdul, and some miles
| | |from the caravan track, are the
| | |wells El Fura. They consist of a
| | |number of holes, 3 or 4 feet in
| | |diameter, and a few feet in
| | |depth, and are sunk in the usual
| | |manner in the channel of a large
| | |river bed—Fura. They are rudely
| | |excavated and are unlined, their
| | |falling in, therefore, is a
| | |matter of frequent occurrence,
| | |and these accidents are repaired
| | |by the excavation of new holes.
| | |A basin with puddled sides is
| | |formed on the surface for the
| | |use of animals. During the rainy
| | |season the holes are rapidly
| | |filled with deposit, and they
| | |have then to be re-made. On the
| | |other hand, in the dry season,
| | |the wells are gradually
| | |deepened, as the water level
| | |falls through use, absorption,
| | |and evaporation. Cattle, sheep,
| | |and goats are driven here in
| | |large numbers. It is the custom
| | |during the hot season to water
| | |the sheep and goats once every
| | |four days, and the cattle every
| | |other day. In the winter season
| | |they are driven to the wells
| | |every sixth and fourth day
| | |respectively. The water at these
| | |wells is good, and the supply
| | |generally plentiful. Only once
| | |within the 30 years preceding
| | |1872[34] had they dried up, and
| | |then only after a continued
| | |drought of two years.
| | |
| | |These wells, being off the
| | |track, were not used by the
| | |Desert Column, 1885.
| | |
| | |Before reaching Jebel-el-Nus, a
| | |tract where much drift sand
| | |prevails is reached. This drift
| | |sand usually travels from the E.
| | |to the W., under the influence
| | |of the prevailing winds, in the
| | |form of low mounds, in plan
| | |somewhat of a crescent form,
| | |with the convex side turned
| | |towards the wind. This slope of
| | |the mound is about 6 in 1, up
| | |which the sand constantly
| | |travels to the summit of the
| | |ridge, and then rolls down the
| | |sheltered side where the slope
| | |is 1 in 1, every sandhill having
| | |in windy weather a slow but
| | |constantly progressive action.
| | |As all traces of the beaten
| | |camel tracks are often
| | |obliterated, the Jebel-el-Nus is
| | |an invaluable landmark. Bad,
| | |soft going here.
| | |
Jebel el-Nus | 22 | 122 |It is a remarkable conical rock
| | |of sandstone, and stands out
| | |prominently in the landscape.
| | |
| | |After this a valley is
| | |approached in which the drift
| | |sand becomes heavier, but where
| | |trees and grass grow abundantly.
| | |
| | |On either side, however, the
| | |aspect of the ground is most
| | |forbidding, the rocks
| | |surrounding the valley, seen
| | |from an elevation, having the
| | |appearance of a troubled stormy
| | |sea.
| | |
| | |The drift sand continues in the
| | |valley only for a distance of
| | |about 3 miles.
| | |
Jebel-el-Sergein| 10 | 132 |After crossing a grass-grown
| | |wady that partially drains a
| | |range of hills on the W., Jebel-
| | |el-Sergein (or Saddle Hill),
| | |another remarkable desert
| | |beacon, is passed.
| | |
| | |The valley round Jebel-el-
| | |Sergein is fertile and contains
| | |much grass, and many groups of
| | |trees. As it affords good
| | |pasturage for camels, it is
| | |always selected for a resting-
| | |place when the traveller cannot
| | |reach the nearest wells.
| | |
| | |Beyond this another wadi is
| | |crossed. It is about a mile in
| | |width, and well covered with
| | |trees and grass.
| | |
| | |For the next 12 or 13 miles the
| | |route runs through the district
| | |of Ummat Handal.
| | |
| | |The first part of it is covered
| | |with much broken sandstone and
| | |loose rock. This is followed for
| | |3 or 4 miles by a stretch of
| | |sand, which further on gives way
| | |to a more agreeable country in
| | |which grass and trees are
| | |plentiful.
| | |
| 15½ | 147½ |The scene of the battle (17th
| | |January ’85) was 2½ miles
| | |further on, ½ mile S. of the
| | |usual track.
| | |
_Abu Klea (Abu | 4½ | 152 |Some more wadis and low
Tleh)_ | | |intervening hills are crossed
| | |till the wells of Abu Tleh are
| | |reached.
| | |
| | |These wells are sunk in the same
| | |manner as those of El Fura, but,
| | |as the soil does not stand so
| | |well, they are constantly
| | |falling in, and have, therefore,
| | |very frequently to be
| | |reconstructed. The water is
| | |excellent for drinking, and the
| | |supply is good, having failed
| | |only once within the 30 years
| | |preceding 1872. These wells are
| | |directly on the camel track to
| | |Metemma and are constantly
| | |visited by caravans. They also
| | |form a favourite watering place
| | |for the flocks and herds of the
| | |Arabs.
| | |
| | |The route now enters a valley
| | |with grass and trees, and after
| | |following it for some distance
| | |across a plain covered with sand
| | |and black boulders, succeeded by
| | |a more favourable district,
| | |capable of cultivation during
| | |the rains.
| | |
_Shebakat_ | 16 | 168 |A little further on occurs the
| | |well of Shebakat.
| | |
| | |This well is also directly on
| | |the caravan route. It is 12 feet
| | |in diameter and 50 feet in
| | |depth, excavated through the
| | |sandstone rock to a bed of sandy
| | |shingle. It is situate on an
| | |extensive plain amongst thick
| | |scrub and coarse grass, and as
| | |there is no water channel in its
| | |vicinity, the supply must be
| | |obtained from low-level springs.
| | |The water being brackish, it is
| | |unfit for drinking purposes, and
| | |it is thick and clouded. The
| | |supply is abundant and never
| | |failing in the driest seasons.
| | |Small puddled basins are formed,
| | |as at other wells, on the ground
| | |surface for the use of cattle.
| | |
| | |An acacia forest, traversed by
| | |the Desert Column on the night
| | |of 18th January, 1885, lies a
| | |mile or two S. of the ordinary
| | |track hereabouts.
| | |
| | |The track to Metemma now leads
| | |over light scrub and tussocky
| | |gravel; that to Abu Khru or
| | |Khrug and Gubat is similar, but
| | |with less scrub.
| | |
| | |The caravan route ends at
| | |Metemma, which is situated near
| | |the W. bank of the Nile, and is
| | |separated from the desert by a
| | |low line of hills.
| | |
Metemma | 8 | 176 |A considerable tract of fertile
| | |land, about 1,200 yards broad,
| | |dividing the town from the
| | |river, is occasionally inundated
| | |during the season of the floods.
| | |
| | |Metemma contained (1885) about
| | |3,000 inhabitants, and was in
| | |1897 and 1898 the headquarters
| | |of Mahmud and his men. It now
| | |(1903) contains 2,500
| | |inhabitants who are chiefly
| | |women.
| | |
| | |This town in 1885 consisted of
| | |mud houses with straw roofs,
| | |with one or two earthworks W. of
| | |the town; two or more mosques.
| | |Bombardment with small 7-lb.
| | |guns produced no effect on the
| | |houses, the shells passing
| | |through without damaging them.
| | |Setting roofs on fire of no use,
| | |as it did not destroy the
| | |houses. It is now (1903) only
| | |just beginning to recover from
| | |the effects of Mahmud’s
| | |occupation and massacre.
SUMMARY OF WATER SUPPLY.
Ambukol | — | — |On the Nile.
| | |
Korti | — | — |On the Nile.
| | |
Hambok | 47 | — |Wells.
| | |
El Haweiyat | 8 | 59 |Wells.
| | |
Magaga | 14 | 73 |Two good reservoirs 1 mile N. of
| | |track.
| | |
Abu Halfa | 17 | 90 |Wells, 3½ miles from the camel
| | |track.
| | |
Jakdul | 10 | 100 |Three miles N. of the caravan
| | |track. Abundant supply of water
| | |good for a large force.
| | |
El Fura | — | — |About 8 or 9 miles from Jakdul,
| | |and some miles from the caravan
| | |track. Wells—water good, supply
| | |generally plentiful.
| | |
Abu Tleh | 52 | 152 |Wells—water excellent, supply
| | |fairly plentiful.
| | |
Shebakat | 16 | 168 |One large well. Supply abundant
| | |and never failing, but the water
| | |is brackish, and only fit for
| | |animals.
| | |
Metemma | 8 | 176 |On the Nile.
| | |
Shendi | — | — |On the Nile 3 miles below
| | |Metemma.
----------------+-------------+------+--------------------------------
113.—KORTI TO BAYUDA AND SEDEIRI.
BY CAPTAIN V. BUNBURY AND VISCOUNT SUDLEY, MARCH, 1897.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Korti | — | — |Road indifferent going for
| | |infantry; suitable for cavalry.
| | |
_Um Tub_ | 35 | 35 |One permanent well here, 10 feet
| | |in diameter, sides faced with
| | |stone. Water, 125 feet below
| | |ground level, good; constant
| | |supply. Fourteen hods at the
| | |well’s mouth in good order.
| | |Country open, good grazing. Well
| | |in the middle of a gravelly rise,
| | |easy for defence. It took 5 hours
| | |to water 115 camels.
| | |
| | |For the first 3½ hours (10 miles)
| | |after leaving this the route is
| | |very bad going, especially for
| | |cavalry, and lies along a broken
| | |wadi and many stony bits. Ground
| | |on either side rocky, hilly;
| | |efficient scouting impossible.
| | |After the broken ground the route
| | |lies over open country, and is
| | |good for cavalry.
| | |
_Um Sunt | 30 | 65 |The wells here are in a khor which
Bayuda_ | | |runs from S. to N. at this point.
| | |Only two wells were open to any
| | |depth (about 10 feet), but were
| | |quite dry. Dug in both of them,
| | |but had to desist in one after a
| | |short time, as it was too narrow
| | |for a man to work in. In the
| | |other, reached water after 3
| | |hours’ digging at a depth of 23
| | |feet below the ground level. Water
| | |flowed freely, and was good.
| | |
| | |The wells are commanded from E.
| | |and W. by high ground immediately
| | |above the river bed, and from N.
| | |and S. by hills from 100 to 150
| | |feet high at a distance of 200
| | |yards, and from N.E. by a range of
| | |hills about 800 feet high at a
| | |distance of 1 mile.
| | |
| | |Ten days later this well was
| | |revisited and found to be dry.
| | |
| | |The next 4 miles are through the
| | |Wadi Bayuda defile. Road very bad
| | |here; flanked on either side by
| | |rocky hills, which appear to run
| | |far inland on both flanks. All
| | |scouting on flanks impossible.
| | |After heavy rains a flood of 9
| | |feet deep is said to pour
| | |northwards through this defile.
| | |
| | |Two miles further on lies
| | |
_Monasieb_ | 6 | 71 |or Um-el-Nasaib. Two wide-mouthed
| | |wells; water in one of them 8 feet
| | |down. A few hods. Trees and bushes
| | |growing close around; unsuitable
| | |place for watering beasts, and
| | |unfavourable for defence.
| | |
| | |Road good to
| | |
_Um Sedeiri_ | 3 | 74 |Many wells here, mostly unused.
| | |Three wide-mouthed wells and one
| | |narrow well, newly opened in the
| | |sand, had water in them about 6
| | |feet below ground level. The water
| | |in the former was unfit for human
| | |consumption, but the camels drank
| | |it freely; the water in the latter
| | |was good. After clearing away some
| | |of the mud and slime from the
| | |large wells water came fairly
| | |freely. Also obtained a constant
| | |supply of very good clear water by
| | |digging 2 feet in one of the
| | |unused wells; the hods at these
| | |wells are not numerous, and
| | |require repairing. I consider that
| | |any amount of water can be
| | |obtained here by a little digging;
| | |it is of good quality, and appears
| | |to be about 6 feet below ground
| | |level. I was informed that there
| | |is water here all the year round.
| | |
| | |A great quantity of long coarse
| | |grass grows round the wells and on
| | |each side of the river bed. The
| | |wells are commanded from N. to
| | |S.E. by high ground from 60 to 30
| | |feet high, at distances of 500 to
| | |150 yards from N. to S.E.; also
| | |from W. by ground about 30 feet
| | |high, at distances from 80 to 100
| | |yards from S. to N. Some large
| | |trees and the long grass above-
| | |mentioned would afford cover near
| | |to the wells.
| | |
| | |The road back to Um Tub (35 miles)
| | |is good and open, with the
| | |exception of the 10 miles
| | |mentioned above.
| | |
| | |The direct road Um Sedeiri to
| | |Korti (70 miles) is good going,
| | |but no water.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
114.—MEROWE TO JAKDUL.
BY MAJOR HON. M. G. TALBOT, AUGUST, 1898.
[Sidenote: General Remarks.]
Except for patches of sand, heavy for infantry and horses, the road
is good throughout, with the exception of the Magaga defile. Though
the road frequently changes from one bank to the other of the Khor
Abu Dom, up whose valley it generally proceeds till it crosses the
watershed into the Magaga basin, none of the crossings present any
difficulty; but there is always the danger in the summer months of
a spate caused by rain near the head.
Firewood and camel grazing are plentiful throughout, but there is
practically no grass for horses.
As far as, and including, Kalas the road may be considered as having
been traversed at the driest time of year.
N.B.—Party consisted of 1 Squadron (Cavalry), and 1 Company
(Camel Corps).
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Merowe | — | — |
| | |
Ghazali | 8¼ | 8¼ |General direction from Merowe, a
| | |little S. of E. No definite track.
| | |Troops can take shortest line
| | |across open plain, dotted with
| | |bushes and tabas grass. At 4 miles
| | |the Khor Abu Dom, whose very sandy
| | |bed is 100 yards wide, is struck,
| | |and the right bank ascended. At 6
| | |miles the low rocky hills close in
| | |to form a short, and very easy,
| | |defile; the hills soon recede and
| | |allow the valley to expand, and at
| | |7¼ miles the _first well_ is
| | |reached, at the foot of a low hill
| | |on right bank. A mile further on
| | |is _another well_ from which a
| | |small garden is supplied. There
| | |are one or _two water holes_ in
| | |between. Water good, plentiful,
| | |and near surface. No good camping
| | |ground.
| | |
_Hannek | 22¼ | 30½ |Road keeps up right bank of khor;
(Upper)_ | | |Geren hill at 3¾ miles marks site
| | |of well. At 5¾ miles road crosses
| | |to left bank at _Um Sayala wells_,
| | |and after 4 miles of good going
| | |through thickish scrub, Beida is
| | |reached. Both Geren and Um Sayala
| | |were said to have water, but were
| | |not visited. _Beida well_ is about
| | |20 feet deep. After a few minutes
| | |clearing out, it supplied a drink
| | |for all the horses. Good shade. At
| | |10¼ miles the road leaves the main
| | |khor, and keeps up an affluent
| | |called Ab Jowalis, which it leaves
| | |by a very low and easy saddle at
| | |14¼ miles, and after crossing the
| | |heads of many minor tributaries
| | |eventually returns to, and crosses
| | |the main bed of, the Khor Abu Dom
| | |at 20¼ miles. At ¼ to ½ mile below
| | |the point of crossing is the
| | |_Lower Hannek well_, which was not
| | |visited. After crossing, the track
| | |keeps up the right bank to _Hannek
| | |(Upper) well_ at 22¼ miles. The
| | |two wells here required clearing
| | |out, and then gave sufficient
| | |water of rather indifferent
| | |quality. Plenty of shade.
| | |
_Kalas_ | 32½ | 63 |The khor is crossed at ½ mile, and
| | |road then passes over an open
| | |plain, affording good going, until
| | |it strikes the khor again at _Um
| | |Jueiri well_ at 8½ miles. After
| | |this a few stony bits, and one or
| | |two stony ridges are crossed, with
| | |which exceptions road is excellent
| | |to _well at El Tawila_ at 14½
| | |miles. Water good; and well, after
| | |being a little cleaned out,
| | |afforded a drink for all horses,
| | |and some of the camels. Road
| | |continues good, and follows left
| | |bank of khor, except for a few
| | |hundred yards at 18½ miles, when
| | |the hills close in and drive it
| | |into the bed of the khor, under J.
| | |Lebarug. At 23½ miles it crosses a
| | |considerable branch of the khor,
| | |and at 26½ it crosses a low rocky
| | |saddle, and returns to basin of
| | |main khor Abu Dom, in bed of which
| | |at 28 miles is situated the _well
| | |of El Tueina_, lying about ⅓ mile
| | |to left of direct road to Kalas.
| | |From here to Kalas, 32½ miles, the
| | |road keeps crossing bed of khor,
| | |60 to 100 yards wide, and the
| | |narrow basin is enclosed by low
| | |irregular-shaped hills. _Two lots
| | |of wells at Kalas_, about 300
| | |yards apart. Water bad. Even after
| | |cleaning out, the horses and
| | |camels were watered with great
| | |difficulty. Little shade.
| | |
Abu Halfa | 25½ | 88½ |Road keeps up left bank over some
| | |stony ground, and crosses khor at
| | |2 miles and recrosses at 2½. After
| | |5 more miles of good going on the
| | |whole, the very low and easy
| | |saddle forming the watershed is
| | |reached at 7½ miles, and on
| | |crossing it the basin of the Wadi
| | |Magaga is entered. The road for
| | |the next 7 miles is down a
| | |gradually widening, but always
| | |stony, defile, along which it is
| | |preferable to lead horses almost
| | |the whole way. The path is mostly
| | |down the actual watercourse, which
| | |has all the characteristics of a
| | |mountain torrent. A dry water hole
| | |was passed at 10 miles, and some
| | |_pools of water_ at 13½ miles. At
| | |14½ miles the road emerges from
| | |the stony bed and crosses a low
| | |saddle at 15 miles, from which the
| | |first view of the plains to the S.
| | |is obtained. At 15¾, another low
| | |saddle is crossed, and the track
| | |then descends to the plain and
| | |keeps along the feet of the hills,
| | |crossing patches of stony ground
| | |alternating with flat khors,
| | |covered with scattered bush and
| | |thick tabas grass, to 25 miles,
| | |when it turns to left up Wadi Abu
| | |Halfa, and strikes the wells at 26
| | |miles, close to the junction of a
| | |tributary with the main khor, and
| | |at the foot of a low—but
| | |conspicuous—rocky hillock.[35]
| | |There is a _large pool_, said
| | |never to get dry, about ½ mile up
| | |the khor. Good camping ground.
| | |Some shade. Water plentiful.
| | |
_Jakdul_ | 10½ | 99 |Road crosses khor at once, and
| | |keeps straight along foot of
| | |higher hills, leaving some very
| | |low ones on its right. At 8 miles
| | |track turns to left up Wadi
| | |Jakdul, and reaches lower pool at
| | |10½ miles.
| | |
| | |The former descriptions of Jakdul
| | |still hold good, so it need not be
| | |described here. _Vide_ Route 112.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
115.—MEROWE TO BERBER, _viâ_ SANI.
BY CAPTAIN N. M. SMYTH (1897) AND COLONEL FRIEND (1902).
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Merowe | — | — |
| | |
El Dughayet | 14 | 14 |On left bank of Nile. Shaigia
| | |Arabs. Mud huts, and palms to
| | |shade one battalion in vicinity.
| | |Thorn bush and grazing for 1,000
| | |camels.
| | |
| | |A well-defined but narrow track,
| | |passable only in single or double
| | |file, leads across some rocky
| | |hills about 150 feet above level
| | |of High Nile, till at 6 miles it
| | |strikes the Khor Shingawi, which
| | |is broad and sandy, with a few
| | |scattered bushes.
| | |
Jebel El Dega | 8 | 22 |Is passed on the right of the
| | |road. From 6 to 8 miles the ground
| | |is firm, and admits usually of
| | |marching camels four abreast.
| | |
El Nus | 8 | 30 |El Nus is merely the name of a
| | |locality where the track crosses a
| | |spur from the north, whence Jebel
| | |El Ghanam is visible 10 miles
| | |north and Jebel El Khullal 5 miles
| | |south; no shade. Drainage, after
| | |Jebel El Dega crossed, flows
| | |south-west.
| | |
| | |The track generally continues
| | |good, mostly over hard shingle or
| | |firm sand. In many places several
| | |parallel tracks.
| | |
Jebel El | 10 | 40 |A rounded hill about 100 feet
Mgarfur (?) | | |high, is passed on the right. This
| | |is the first place where shade is
| | |to be got from thorn bushes. There
| | |is enough for about one battalion
| | |if scattered over about 2 square
| | |miles.
| | |
Um Geren | 5 | 45 |The well-known Arab camping
| | |ground, Um Geren, marked by a tall
| | |tree, is left ½ mile to the north
| | |of track in the wooded Khor Abu
| | |Siba.
| | |
_El Kua_ | 1½ | 46½ |The well El Kua is passed ½ mile
| | |north of track in the Khor Abu
| | |Siba. This well is 25 feet deep,
| | |and, though liable to run dry in
| | |winter, generally contains about 3
| | |feet of water from July to
| | |September.
| | |
_El Bar_ | 1½ | 48 |A similar well, El Bar, is passed
| | |½ mile to the north of track in
| | |the Khor Abu Siba, which all along
| | |here is well wooded with dom
| | |palms, sunt trees and bushes for
| | |camel grazing. Both these wells
| | |belong to the Hawawir sub-tribe of
| | |Monasir.
| | |
_Sani_ | 2 | 50 |Sani is a pool of rain-water with
| | |rock, sand, and shingle banks. It
| | |is said that the water is
| | |perennial, and if drunk dry, it
| | |refills to three-quarters former
| | |depth; more than 6 feet deep in
| | |centre. Water good; contained at
| | |time of visit about 26,000
| | |gallons. Thirty animals can drink
| | |at once; if buckets are used 60
| | |could drink. Sagias and
| | |cultivation.
| | |
_Abu Koreit_ | 14 | 64 |Many old wells, but disused, and
| | |water supply very small.
| | |
_Kurbai_ | 62 | 126 |Water, but supply bad.
| | |
_Abu Haraz_ | 19 | 145 |Well; good water.
| | |
Berber | 4 | 149 |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
116.—SANI TO EL ZUMA (NILE) _viâ_ JURA.
BY CAPTAIN ST. G. HENRY, AUGUST, 1897.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Sani Pool | — | — |Going good; in some places over
| | |rough, tussocky grass, but
| | |generally over firm sand. Features
| | |of country very indefinite, and
| | |drainage lines hard to trace;
| | |there is, however, no doubt that
| | |they all cross the track from
| | |right to left.
| | |
J. Sergein | 7 | 7 |From 6 to 8 miles the track
| | |crosses some rocky undulating
| | |ground. At 7 miles, J Sergein, or
J. El Hueish | 4 | 11 |Sargit, is left to the S., and the
| | |road passes N. of J. El Hueish, an
| | |isolated rocky hill with a patch
| | |of yellow sand halfway up.
| | |
| 21 | 32 |A branch of Wadi Argu or Argubi is
| | |now crossed. From this point J.
| | |Gormuli lay due N., and J. Ibnali
| | |(the mass of hills S. of Jura
| | |Well), lay due E.
| | |
| 15 | 47 |At 3 miles from Jura the track
| | |joins, in a branch of the Wadi
| | |Argu, the track from Kirbekan. At
| | |this point the direction of Sani
| | |bears 250 degrees magnetic
| | |(Tudway). For the next 3 miles the
| | |track winds in a south-easterly
| | |direction through low undulating
| | |hills, between the mass of the
| | |Jura range (J. Ibnali) on the
| | |right, and some sharp-pointed
| | |hills of considerable height on
| | |the left.
| | |
_Jura_ | 3 | 50 |The well at Jura is situated in a
| | |small rocky plain surrounded by
| | |hills N. of eastern end of J.
| | |Ibnali. It has been cut out of the
| | |solid rock and is about 2 feet in
| | |diameter. The water was about 6
| | |feet below the surface; it is good
| | |and sweet, and tastes like rain-
| | |water. One hundred camels were
| | |watered from it without emptying
| | |it. It is said never to dry up.
| | |There were formerly six other
| | |wells, equally good, close by, of
| | |which the marks are still visible.
| | |The natives say they only want
| | |cleaning out. Water can sometimes
| | |be got by scraping at the mouth of
| | |the khor about 110 yards distant.
| | |Near the well stands the ruin of a
| | |house, built at the time it was
| | |proposed to take the telegraph
| | |line to Berber by this route.
| | |
| | |It is a bad and confined camping
| | |ground, with very little shade,
| | |though there are a few dom palms
| | |and thorn bushes along the khor.
| | |Heat and dust very great.
| | |
| | |A flood is said to come down the
| | |khor once almost every year. The
| | |drainage appears to go to Wadi
| | |Argu.
| | |
El Zuma | 35 | 85 |On left bank Nile, opposite El
| | |Shereik. Government Rest House and
| | |ferry. There is also Rest House at
| | |Shereik.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
117.—JURA TO KIRBEKAN (ABOUT 1 MILE S.W. OF SITE OF BATTLE).
BY MAJOR TUDWAY AND CAPTAIN ST. G. HENRY, AUGUST, 1897.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Jura | — | — |
| | |
Wadi Argu | 3 | 3 |For the first 3 miles the track
| | |winds through low hills between
| | |main mass (J. Ibnali) and the two
| | |pointed hills to N. At 3 miles it
| | |strikes a branch of the Wadi Argu
| | |or Argubi. Here the Sani track
| | |branches off at a bearing of 250
| | |degrees magnetic, and the general
| | |direction of Kirbekan is 305
| | |degrees magnetic. The track
| | |continues in a north-westerly
| | |direction over undulating ground,
| | |draining from right to left to the
| | |Wadi Argu, passing a low hill
| | |called J. Barga, and striking into
| | |a main branch of the Wadi Argu,
| | |along which the road runs over an
| | |excellent track with good grazing
| | |and plenty of trees.
| | |
| 30 | 33 |At about 33 miles out from Jura,
| | |J. Gormuli, which is visible
| | |nearly the whole way, lay due N.
| | |
| | |As far as the 45th mile (Henry)
| | |the route continues to follow the
| | |Wadi Argu, when it turns up a khor
| | |to the left, and after some 11
| | |miles of a narrow, rocky pathway,
| | |descends to the river S.W. of J.
| | |Musa, the hill on which Kirbekan
| | |Battle was fought.
| | |
Kirbekan | 21 | 54 |The Wadi Argu joins the Nile at
| | |Kirbekan village. For the last 15
| | |miles of its course the trees and
| | |vegetation increase, and from the
| | |number of dom palms it is probable
| | |that water would be found near the
| | |surface. There is usually water in
| | |a rain pool, called El Sihani, 10
| | |or 12 miles from the river.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
118.—OMDURMAN TO GABRA.
BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., NOVEMBER, 1903.
[Sidenote: General remarks.]
The only obstacles to taking a bee line for Gabra are the Abu Meru
or Merkhait hills, which have to be skirted either on the N. or on
the S., and the Goz Abu Delua which has to be crossed. The latter
is a belt of undulating ground, covered lightly with sand in some
places, and perhaps heavily in others, running generally in N.N.E. by
S.S.W. direction and probably varying in width. The best place to
cross it is at the Hanakat El Goz, where a khor cuts its way through
it. This may be looked on as an obligatory point, and it is here
and round the northern and southern sides of the Merkhiat hills only
that one sees signs of a definite path until within a few miles of the
wells. After rain, water is said to stand in a place called Shegeig or
Mushgeig near the Goz, otherwise there is no water on the road. After
passing the Merkhait hills firewood abounds and grass was plentiful
at the time of this journey. Trees are chiefly “samr” with a few
“kittr,” “heglig,” and other bushes. There is no “hashab”
as stated on Khartoum Sheet. A great deal of spear grass is met with,
and the guide informed me that, but for his skilful leading, I should
have met much more.
Owing to the absence of any track and the tussocky nature of the
“tabas” grass, the going is not good, except in the neighbourhood
of the Id Ennala.
The distances given in this route report are obtained by assuming
the camels to have marched at about 2½ miles an hour, checked by
measuring wheel; but the route taken was far from straight.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Omdurman | — | — |Left old steamer workshops, turned
| | |N. at corner of Sur wall and, when
| | |clear of houses, made straight for
| | |Abu Meru hills; halted N. of them;
| | |a little grass; no firewood.
Abu Meru | 8½ | 8½ |Distance from Khartoum Sheet.
| | |
| | |On clearing hills track
| | |disappeared. “Tabas” grass and
| | |“samr.”
| | |
_Stony ridge_ | 14 | 22½ |Crossed by stony ridge.
| | |
| | |Crossed by another stony ridge.
| | |
| | |Crossed Khor Um Muherib (?) said
| | |to flow into Id Ennala; not a very
| | |apparent drainage line.
| | |
Id Ennala | 14¼ | 36¾ |After passing one or two very
| | |minor khors, crossed Id Ennala;
| | |much “tabas” and “spear” grass.
| | |Many “samr” and a few “heglig” and
| | |“kittr” trees. Good grazing.
| | |Ground rather broken in a very
| | |small way, but difficult for
| | |camels at night.
| | |
_Shegeig_ | 8¼ | 45 |Passed a place on right called
| | |Shegeig or Mushgeig, where water
| | |stands after rain, and crossed to
| | |further side of Goz Abu Delua
| | |which had long been visible on
| | |left, parallel to route we
| | |followed. About a mile wide. The
| | |Hanakat is about 40 yards to 60
| | |yards wide and full of “marakh”
| | |bushes. It is said the old
| | |Government tried to find water
| | |here, but failed. It is said to
| | |join the Shegeig, which is joined
| | |by the Id Ennala and falls into
| | |Nile at Wadi Bishara.
| | |
| | |From up stream end of Hanak, Gabra
| | |is not visible, but the guide
| | |pointed it out as on 300°
| | |magnetic.
| | |
| | |The Hanakat seems to have but a
| | |small basin W. of Goz.
| | |
| | |Continued over slightly undulating
| | |plain with grass and scattered
| | |bushes.
| | |
| | |Passed some dura cultivation on
| | |left. Seemed a poor crop.
| | |
Wadi Mogaddam | 10 | 55 |Turned more to N.N.E. and dropped
| | |over low stony ridge into the
| | |valley of the Wadi Mogaddam. Well
| | |but not densely wooded. Marched on
_Gabra wells_ | 3½ | 58½ |bearing 330° magnetic to wells.
| | |
| | |There are at least 15 wells of 60
| | |to 70 feet depth. They water a
| | |very large number of animals
| | |daily. Level of water fluctuates
| | |with rain, after which the whole
| | |of the ground round the wells is
| | |said to be underwater. Remains of
| | |Dervish mud fort, circular, 12
| | |yards diameter, loop-holed towards
| | |north, bears about 150° from
| | |wells, which are 400 yards
| | |distant; short shelter trench E.
| | |of wells. No remains of zeriba.
| | |
| | |Many Kababish with large flocks
| | |and herds.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
119.—GABRA TO KORTI.
BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, DECEMBER, 1903.
[Sidenote: General remarks.]
Till within a few miles of Korti the Wadi Mogaddam was practically
followed throughout. It seems not to be used at all as a caravan road,
as there is no track and no caravans were met. At the same time it
seems an easy road to Omdurman, and very straight as far as Gabra.
The country passed through is flat and uninteresting. No hills of
any remarkable height were seen, the highest being to the W. and
N.W. of Gabra.
None of those near the route exceed 200 feet to 250 feet, relative
height.
The Wadi Mogaddam consists of a depression marked by a belt of trees
or grass, without any water channel whatever. Evidently there is
never any flow of water on the surface of the wadi.
The belt of trees varies in width and character. At Gabra it must
be nearly ¾ mile wide, and thick though not dense. There are some
good “sayal,” “heglig,” “tundub,” and “samr” trees;
lower down the trees diminish in size, the “sayal” is rarely met,
and with the exception of a little “arak” and “kurmet” there
is hardly anything but “samr” to be seen, with “tundub” in
places. From Gaerin “selem” begins to be seen, and soon it becomes
the principal growth.
Below Um Harot no grass was seen except burnt-up “tabas,” but
that must depend on the year. On the whole, grazing for camels was
very fair, but practically none for horses.
The line taken presented no difficulties whatever in the way of rocks
or gradients. From a camel point of view there is no heavy sand,
but it is not recommended as a route for motor-cars.
No supplies to be obtained except sheep and milk. Firewood is plentiful
everywhere. Water seemed good everywhere except at Um Harot, where
it was a little salt. The wells are all about 120 to 140 feet deep,
except at Gabra, where they were 60 feet to 70 feet.
A guide is indispensable. With a guide there is no difficulty in
marching by moonlight.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gabra | — | — |Left Gabra in a N.W. direction,
| | |and after a few minutes emerged
| | |from the trees on to the edge of
| | |the gently sloping plains, and
| | |turned north.
| | |
W. Um Deisis | 5½ | 5½ |After two hours along the left
| | |edge of Wadi Mogaddam, the Wadi Um
| | |Deisis is crossed. It comes from
| | |Gambar Wells and forms the
| | |northern boundary of the Kababish
| | |in the Wadi Mogaddam. It is marked
| | |by some trees and 2 or 3
| | |insignificant water channels, the
| | |only ones seen on the whole road.
| | |
| | |Soon after a low sandy hill, with
| | |a tree on it, can just be made out
| | |in the distance and serves as
| | |direction point. It is passed at
| | |about 5 hours from Gabra, being
| | |left on the right.
| | |
_Bir Hassanin_| 10½ | 16 |A little way further on Bir
| | |Hassanin, belonging to the
| | |Hassania, is passed. It is deeper
| | |than most, being about 144 feet.
| | |
_Um Harot_ | 4 | 20 |From this on we kept well to the
| | |left of the wadi and made straight
| | |for Um Harot well, 120 feet deep,
| | |belonging to the Geriat.
| | |
| | |It is situated on a bare bit of
| | |ground W. of the wadi and just
| | |where the Wadi Wohad joins it.
| | |
| | |On the E. of the Mogaddam, which
| | |is here narrow, is a low black
| | |elevation, called J. Deim Gibur.
| | |
| | |Kept for some miles more or less
| | |in the centre of the wadi, which
| | |is rather ill-defined; slight
_Bir El | 6 | 26 |rises of ground occur at intervals
Simira_ | | |on either bank. Reached Bir El
| | |Simiha, Geriat well, close under
| | |N.W. end of low black hill
| | |partially covered with sand.
| | |
| | |One and a-half hours further on,
| | |keeping to right of Mogaddam,
| | |passed a disused Geriat well
_Fanga Well_ | 5 | 31 |called Um Khenoit, situated in a
| | |bare space that had once been
| | |zeribaed, and 15 minutes further
| | |on reached Fanga well, Geriat.
| | |
Gaerin | 4 | 35 |Still keeping on right edge of
| | |Mogaddam, after another 1½ hours
| | |Gaerin wells are reached.
| | |
| | |There are several wells, about 120
| | |feet deep, in a bare space of
| | |about half a square mile. Wood all
| | |round, including much “selem.”
| | |From this on very little grass was
| | |seen.
| | |
| | |Kept along right edge of wadi, and
| | |after 1¼ hours crossed a wadi
| | |joining from E. Guide seemed to
| | |call it Wadi Teneida, but it was
_Bir El Agami_| 6 | 41 |difficult to catch. An hour
| | |further on the nearest point to
| | |Bir El Agami was passed. This is
| | |the northern Geriat well, and lies
| | |about a mile E. of route.
| | |
| | |After ¾ of an hour, the junction
| | |of the Wadi Melh is passed on the
| | |left.
| | |
_Bir Eminalla_| 10 | 51 |And 3 hours further on the first
| | |Hawawir well, Bir Eminalla, is
| | |reached.
| | |
| | |From here the wadi begins to be
| | |more or less restricted by rising
| | |ground on either side which does
| | |not open out till within an hour
| | |of Um Rumeila.
| | |
_Um Rumeila_ | 12½ | 63½ |This well is situated on a bare
| | |stony patch just where the Wadi
| | |Gumr joins the Mogaddam. Most of
| | |the latter wadi keeps to the E. of
| | |it. From this point the Gumr
| | |hills, which have been visible for
| | |some time, are at their nearest
| | |and appear not more than 20 or 25
| | |miles off. The plain, up to the
| | |sandy foothills, appears gently
| | |sloping and bare. The hills have
| | |the appearance of a long gravelly
| | |ridge of very uniform and no great
| | |height, but it is unlikely that
| | |they are of gravel. A few hills
| | |are visible to the N.W., and a
| | |group of low hills called Mingit
| | |bears 44° magnetic. Salt is
| | |obtained either from these hills
| | |or from the low ridges in their
| | |vicinity.
| | |
| | |Kept down wadi, passing junction
| | |of W. Anderab at about 4 miles, to
| | |junction of Wadi Hamid with
| | |Mogaddam. There is some “selem”
Wadi Hamid | 11 | 74½ |here; from this on it becomes more
| | |and more frequent. The Wadi Hamid
| | |comes from a low hill called Sud
| | |Wad Hamid or some such name.
| | |
| | |A few miles up it is joined by the
| | |W. Abu Sedeir, in which there is a
| | |Hawawir well, which lies on the
| | |road from Um Tub to Hanboti.
| | |
| | |After an hour along the right edge
| | |of wadi kept a little E. of N.
| | |over some broken ground for about
| | |two hours, and then returned to
| | |wadi and kept more or less up its
El Gab Abu | 14 | 88½ |right edge till within the group
Gambur | | |of hills called El Gab Abu Gambur.
| | |
| | |On the E. side of the southernmost
| | |of these hills, on the left bank,
| | |is an ancient enclosure said to
| | |have been built by the Anak. A
| | |semi-circular wall descending from
| | |the steep part of the hill
| | |encloses a bit of gently sloping
| | |ground near the base. The distance
| | |between the two horns is about 120
| | |yards, and the distance from the
| | |line joining the two ends to the
| | |lowest point is about 70 yards.
| | |
| | |The wall is 8 feet or 9 feet thick
| | |throughout, and 6 feet high at the
| | |lowest point of the hill,
| | |diminishing regularly to nothing
| | |as it ascends the hill.
| | |
| | |There is a gate at the lowest
| | |point, which is fairly well built,
| | |while the rest of the wall has a
| | |very peculiar appearance from all
| | |the stones being used upright on
| | |their ends. There is a legend that
| | |the Hawawir found a well there
| | |when they first came to the
| | |country.
| | |
| | |About an hour beyond the W. Eishat
| | |comes in on the right. Kept
| | |generally on the right edge of the
| | |wadi, in some places keeping on
| | |the sloping ground above it; a
| | |good many low hills W. of wadi.
| | |Crossed a low saddle on W. of
| | |wadi, which is here much less
| | |wooded, and in places hard to
| | |identify. A couple of miles before
| | |reaching Wadi Mahal junction, wadi
| | |passes between two hills on left
| | |and right bank, known as J. Abu
| | |Mara and Nasub El Abid
| | |respectively.
| | |
Wadi Mahal | 19½ | 108 |The Wadi Mahal joins on right
| | |bank. The Hawawir sometimes
| | |cultivate up this wadi.
| | |
| | |The Mogaddam becomes more wooded
| | |again; a low saddle is crossed on
| | |right bank and then a straight
| | |line is made for Um Tub. A great
| | |deal of “tundub,” some “selem,”
| | |and “samr.”
| | |
_Um Tub_ | 8 | 116 |Um Tub well, 120 feet deep,
| | |situated on a very slight rise in
| | |open plain on right edge of wadi.
| | |A track from here to Bayuda well.
| | |Bad going, 2 days for hamla.
| | |
| | |From here low hills are constantly
| | |in sight, each of which has a
| | |name, but none are conspicuous.
| | |Much “selem” and “samr,” very good
J. El Hueimi | 18 | 134 |going. The general direction is a
| | |little W. of N. J. El Hueimi, a
| | |low hill, serves as a direction
| | |mark from some distance till it is
| | |reached.
| | |
| | |After which J. Abno, on the right
| | |bank of the Nile opposite Korti,
| | |becomes visible and is marched on.
| | |A couple of miles further on the
| | |W. Megeirid joins the Mogaddam
| | |from the E. It looks as if it must
| | |flow out of the Wadi Bayuda, but
| | |it may come from a very short way.
| | |After crossing it, kept over low
Wadi Bayuda | 7 | 141 |gravelly ridges, rather trying for
| | |camels’ feet, till the Wadi Bayuda
| | |was reached. The Wadi Bayuda
| | |appears to come from the hills in
| | |the neighbourhood of Jakdul. It
| | |contains much “selem” and “samr,”
| | |and there was excellent grazing
| | |where it was crossed. It flows out
| | |near Ambukol.
| | |
| | |From here it is best to keep a
| | |little west of the straight line
| | |to Korti and along the right edge
| | |of the wadi, in order to avoid
Korti | 9 | 150 |more gravel ridges; after 1½ hours
| | |a track is struck which leads past
| | |Korti village to the new
| | |Government offices, just west of
| | |the old fort of 1897-98.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
120.—KORTI TO BAYUDA WELLS.
BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, DECEMBER, 1903.
[Sidenote: General remarks.]
The road ascends generally the wadi by which the drainage of the Khor
Bayuda descends. Though, possibly, people living on the river or at
a distance call the whole wadi by the name of Bayuda, the local Arabs
give each part of it a different name.
From the source to a little below the wells appears to be called
Khor Bayuda. Up to this point it has a defined bed, in which water
flows after rain. After passing J. Barkol it becomes Wadi Barkol,
being now, and remaining, a broad wadi with no water channel. Soon
after it becomes Wadi El Zein, till it is joined by the large Wadi
Abu Gia, whose name it retains till near Korti. It is not quite clear
whether it keeps it to the end or adopts the name Abu Gidean after
its junction with that wadi.
The going is extremely good, there being no difficulty whatever.
Though a good deal used, there is no marked track till near the
wells. The numerous small isolated hills act as efficient landmarks,
so that everyone takes his own line.
Except for the short and uncertain period when green grass can be
obtained, “selem” is the best camel grazing in all this country. It
is found almost all the way in the wadi.
No supplies were obtainable of any sort on the road or at Bayuda
wells in December, 1903.
A little shade is to be got in winter, but practically none in summer.
The distances were measured by wheel and adjusted to the astronomical
positions. The hours are those actually marched by light hamla.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Korti village,| — | — |For the first 4 miles one of the
west end | | |tracks leading to Um Tub is
| | |followed, the route then bends
| | |slightly to left, keeping up the
| | |right edge of the Wadi Abu Gia,
| | |which has plenty of “selem” and
| | |other trees, till it crosses it at
| 13 | 13 |13 miles.
| | |
| | |It now keeps along the left side
| | |of the wadi, which has shrunk
| | |almost to nothing above the
| | |junction of the Abu Gia, passing
| | |J. Shankawi at 3½ miles, and
| | |returning to the wadi, where
J. Shankawi | 3½ | 16½ |“selem” bushes reappear.
| | |
| 8½ | 25 |The route keeps on straight near
| | |the southern of the two Sawileil
| | |hills, past J. El Zein, which is
| | |left 1½ miles on the right,
| | |crosses the Wadi El Zein, and a
| | |very low and easy saddle.
| | |
| 14 | 39 |It descends just to the right of a
| | |very small hill called Nasb Um
| | |Handal, passes between J. Um Serre
| | |and J. Barkol, and crosses the
| | |fairly well wooded W. Rahaba, just
| | |N. of the little hill called Nasb
| | |El Rahaba.
| | |
| 8 | 47 |After 5 miles it meets the well
| | |marked track from Merowe, and at 6
| | |miles it crosses a low ridge, and
| | |descends into the valley of the
| | |wadi, here called Wadi Bayuda.
| | |
| | |At 6½ miles it crosses the actual
| | |bed, some 40 yards wide and 6 feet
| | |deep, and at 7 miles the wells are
| | |reached.
| | |
_Bayuda wells_| 7 | 54 |The wells are situated in the bed
| | |of the khor and are filled up,
| | |whenever there is a spate. At the
| | |time of the visit, the Arabs were
| | |drawing water from a hole about a
| | |mile up; but they had begun to
| | |clean out the real wells.
| | |
| | |There are said to be two other
| | |wells, El Nasaib and Um Sideiri,
| | |about 2½ hours up on the way to
| | |Hanboti.
| | |
| | |Just at the wells it is fairly
| | |open, though surrounded by low
| | |hills. Half a mile further up the
| | |khor is closely shut in by hills
| | |covered with boulders.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
121.—BAYUDA WELLS TO TANGASI MARKET.
BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, DECEMBER, 1903.
[Sidenote: General Remarks.]
From Bayuda wells to Wadi Abu Gia there is an extremely well marked
track, profusely beaconed in the Arab manner. Further N. the stream
of traffic divides according to the part of the Merowe district for
which the traveller is bound or from which he starts.
The going is excellent throughout; no difficulties whatever.
The route appears to be of recent origin.
Formerly the produce of the Province used to make its way to Berber
_via_ Sani, and this new trade route, sometimes called the Hawashawi
route, from a hill of that name, seems to have been established to
meet the new conditions in the Sudan.
From Bayuda the route keeps straight on, crossing the Goz Abu
Delua just before reaching Hanboti, and strikes the Nile near the
Shabluka. Between Bayuda and Merowe there are considerable stretches
without any camel grazing, and there is no shade of any value in hot
weather. The distances were measured by wheel and adjusted to the
astronomical positions.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Bayuda Wells | — | — |On leaving the wells for the first
| | |mile the Korti track is followed.
| | |On issuing from the hills, the
| | |track, which is well marked,
| | |gradually separates from the Korti
| | |route, making for higher ground,
| | |and keeps on in a practically
| | |straight line, crossing the heads
| | |of some of the small wadis that
| | |join the main one from Bayuda, and
| | |passing over a number of
| | |infinitesimal saddles that
| | |separate them.
| | |
| | |There is nothing of interest along
| | |the road.
| | |
| | |A number of small hills, each too
| | |small to show properly on the
| | |scale, but sometimes forming a
J. Hawashawi | 26 | 26 |mass of considerable area, are
| | |passed; but the only one worth
| | |noticing is J. Hawashawi, which is
| | |said to give a name to the route.
| | |
| | |There is very little camel grazing
| | |on the route generally, and after
Wadi Abu Gia | 7½ | 33½ |this none is met with till the
| | |Wadi Abu Gia is reached, where
| | |there are some “selem” and other
| | |trees.
| | |
| | |The Wadi Abu Gia is the route used
| | |by the Camel Corps in 1885, and is
| | |still known as Sikkat El Ingliz.
| | |The country now becomes still more
| | |bare; the tussocks of burnt up
| | |“tabas” grass, that have been
| | |hitherto seen occasionally, no
Birgat El | 9 | 42½ |longer appear, and with the
Seleim | | |exception of some “selem” bushes
| | |in the neighbourhood of Birgat El
Birgat Wadi | 14 | 56½ |Seleim, a low hill, no green thing
Kurei | | |is seen till the Wadi Kurei is
| | |reached in the neighbourhood of
| | |the Birgat Wadi Kurei, from the
| | |top of which there is a good view.
| | |
Tangasi | 7 | 63½ |From here into Tangasi Market the
| | |route (there is no track) is over
| | |a low gravel ridge and then across
| | |a level plain.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
[Footnote 34: It was in this year that the surveys for the railway
were made.]
[Footnote 35: _See_ page 175.]
APPENDIX.
(ROUTES PARTLY OUTSIDE THE SUDAN.)
* * * * *
122.—THE ARBAÏN ROAD.
(_Compiled by the Editor._)
The “forty days” road leads S.S.W. across the desert from Assiut,
in Upper Egypt, _viâ_ the oases of Kharga, Beris, Sheb, Selima, Lagia,
and Bir El Sultan to El Fasher capital of Darfur. It was formerly in
considerable use for bringing slave caravans, &c., from the Sudan,
and is still used in parts to a limited extent by natron caravans,
occasional smugglers, and others. It is, however, now practically
deserted.
In the summer of 1884 a reconnaissance was made by Lt.-Col. Colvile
and Lieut. Stuart-Wortley from Assiut to Lagia, in order to find out
whether the forces of the Mahdi could penetrate into Egypt by this
road. The result of the patrol was satisfactory, and demonstrated
that, owing to the paucity of water on the road, it would be quite
impossible for a force of any size to traverse it.
The total length of the Darb El Arbaïn, from Assiut to El Fasher,
is certainly not less than one thousand (1,000) miles. To cover
this stretch in forty days would appear to necessitate particularly
excellent camels, but the following is the normal time taken, according
to native report:—
-------------------------+---------+-------+-------------
Place. |Marching | Rest |Total No. of
| Days. | Days. | Days.
-------------------------+---------+-------+-------------
Assiut | — | — | —
| | |
El Kharga | 4 | 1 | 5
| | |
Beris | 1½ | 1 | 2½
| | |
El Murra | 3 | — | 3
| | |
El Kassaba | 1½ | 1 | 2½
| | |
Sheb | 1 | 1 | 2
| | |
Selima | 2 | 2 | 4
| | |
El Lagia | 4 | 1 | 5
| | |
Natron Wells, Bir Sultan | 5 | 1 | 6
| | |
J. Anka or Meidob | 7 | — | 7
| | |
El Fasher | 3 | — | 3
+---------+-------+-------------
Total | 32 | 8 | 40
-------------------------+---------+-------+-------------
A day’s journey in summer lasts from El Asr (two hours before sunset)
till one hour after sunrise; and in winter from sunrise till three
hours after sunset.
DESCRIPTION.
The only points south of Kharga which have been astronomically fixed
in modern times are Kassaba and Sheb (Talbot, 1903), and therefore the
distances between the main points given below must be considered more
or less approximate. The road is hardly defined at all throughout its
length, and variations occur at different points. A road also joins
the Arbaïn from Mut (Dakhla Oasis) at Terfawi (five days).
On no account should an intending traveller move without reliable
guides, who may usually be obtained, or heard of, at Assiut.
(_a._)—ASSIUT, _viâ_ KHARGA, TO BERIS AND MAKS.
(“Kharga Oasis: its topography and Geology,” by John Ball, 1899,
Public Works Department, Cairo, pp. 20, 44-60, &c.; Captain Lyons,
R.E., February, 1894, &c.)
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Assiut | — | — |Leave Assiut on the S., turn to
| | |W., through cemeteries, and along
| | |the the foot of the scarp.
| | |
| 5 | 5 |Road winds up limestone cliff 470
| | |feet. A few miles over broken
| | |ground brings one on to nearly
| | |level limestone desert, with no
| | |hindrance in any direction. Road
| | |runs generally S. over flat
| | |limestone; nothing of any interest
| | |till the road dips into the great
| 82 | 87 |hollow of the oasis.
| | |
_Ein Karam | 13 | 100 |First water at Ein Karam. See book
Mohammed_ | | |above-mentioned for maps and full
| | |description of the great Oasis of
_Kharga_ | 26 | 126 |Kharga, which lies in a dip over
| | |100 miles long and 20 miles wide,
| | |running N. and S. About 120 wells
| | |and 10 villages or districts;
| | |population about 8,000; 4,500
| | |feddans of cultivated ground, and
| | |about 60,000 palm trees. The oasis
| | |includes the villages of Bulak
_Bulak_ | 15 | 141 |(third largest village), Beris
| | |(second largest village), attacked
_Beris_ | 39 | 180 |by Dervishes in 1893, and Maks
| | |(Bahari and Gibli). The road now
_Maks_ | 9 | 189 |strikes again S. into the desert.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
(_b._)—MAKS, _viâ_ MURRA, KASSABA AND SHEB, TO SELIMA.
(Lieut.-Col. Colvile, July, 1884; Captain Lyons, February, 1894;
Officers Egyptian Army, Spring of 1894, &c.)
----------+----------------+---------+----------------------------------
| Miles. | |
+--------+-------+ Hours |
Place. | Inter- | Total | (Inter- | Description.
|mediate.| from |mediate).|
| |Assiut.| |
----------+--------+-------+---------+----------------------------------
| | | H. M. |
| | | |
Maks, from| — | 189 | — |
Assiut | | | |
| | | |
Kasr Argi | 2 | 191 | 0 35 |A small rocky mound, with a ruin;
or Ein El | | | |near it is a good spring. Another
Kasr | | | |mound, with spring and ruin, also
| | | |bears the same name.
| | | |
Garid Abu | 11 | 202 | 3 17 |A rocky granite hill, about 150
Baian | | | |feet high, on E. of road. The
| | | |road, which up to this point has
| | | |been along a broad, shallow
| | | |valley, with a bed of firm gravel,
| | | |now enters for a few miles hills
| | | |of very deep sand, across which
| | | |there is no track.
| | | |
J. Wagif | 26½ | 228½ | 9 0 |Meaning “stopping place.” A
(J. Harif)| | | |solitary mound of rock 80 feet
| | | |high. It appears to have been used
| | | |as a signal station, there being
| | | |remains of a fire on the summit.
| | | |Stone roadmarks and several
| | | |graves. One day trotting from here
| | | |to either Beris or Bir Murr.
| | | |
Jebel | 8 | 236½ | — |Shersha = Xerxes. Ancient Persian
Mishersha | | | |outpost, possibly water. Long, low
(Um | | | |cliff on E. of road. Small
Shersha) | | | |hillocks 4 miles further on, close
| | | |to road and opposite S. end of
| | | |Shersha, are called Gara El
| | | |Maghatia.
| | | |
Jebel El | 11 | 247½ | — |Hillock on road where merchandise
Magazan | | | |used to be left.
| | | |
El Garun | 11½ | 259 | — |Two little knolls; a road to S.W.
| | | |branches off to Darfur, according
| | | |to Arabs.
| | | |
| | | |Three miles further on begins a
| | | |low limestone plateau, which
| | | |extends up to and beyond Bir
| | | |Murra. This limestone is the only
| | | |landmark for the wells, as no high
| | | |hills are visible near.
| | | |
_Bir | 7 | 266 | 16 15 |Two large holes, each 3 to 4 feet
Murra_ | | | |deep. Plenty of water, rather
| | | |salt, but camels will drink it.
| | | |Jebel el Murra is a narrow, ridge-
| | | |shaped hill, 80 feet high,
| | | |overlooking the wells. Colvile
| | | |says:—“It is a promontory 3 miles
| | | |N. of the wells, and running out
| | | |of the low range of hills on the
| | | |E. of the road. It is easily to be
| | | |recognised by a conical rock,
| | | |balanced on its apex, on the top
| | | |of a small mound.”
| | | |
_Kassaba_ | 67 | 333 | 25 10 |A group of dom palms, water 7 feet
| | | |down, bitter and nitrous. Approach
| | | |from N. by a narrow gorge down the
| | | |sandstone cliff (120 feet high),
| | | |which bounds the wells also on the
| | | |W.; E, and S. the ground is open.
| | | |
| | | |From Kassaba a road leads in a
| | | |S.E. direction over ridges for 25
| | | |miles to the wells of Nakhla,
| | | |whence the road continues for a
| | | |further 79 miles to the Nile,
| | | |opposite Halfa.
| | | |
_(Nakhla)_| — | — | — |Nakhla or Saafi, is so termed from
| | | |a palm tree on a small, sandy,
| | | |grass knoll which overlooks the
| | | |wells. Surrounding this knoll is a
| | | |narrow valley, about 80 yards
| | | |broad, to the E. and S. Throughout
| | | |this valley water can be obtained
| | | |by digging at a depth of from 3½
| | | |to 5 feet. The water does not run
| | | |in very rapidly, but the earth is
| | | |so light that the well can be dug
| | | |very rapidly, filling to about 9
| | | |inches in six hours; water good
| | | |and abundant (February). In the S.
| | | |there is rising ground with a
| | | |slight command. To the E. the
| | | |ground rises slightly, but is
| | | |lower than the date palm hill. To
| | | |the N.E. there is a lofty sand
| | | |hill, at a distance from the date
| | | |palm hill of over 1,200 yards.
| | | |
| | | |Blockhouse, built 1894 (now
| | | |unoccupied).
| | | |
(The Sheb | — | — | — |Kassaba forms the apex of the
District) | | | |triangular Sheb district, which
| | | |holds numerous wells, the names of
| | | |which are often confused. The
| | | |western side of the triangle is
| | | |formed by a range of sandstone
| | | |cliffs, running S.W., along the
| | | |base of which the Arbaïn road
| | | |continues from Kassaba to Sheb.
| | | |The base of the triangle is the
| | | |road from Sheb to Nakhla, and the
| | | |centre is an open plain.
| | | |
Shebba[36]| 15 | 348 | 6 5 |A district covered with low sand
(or Abu | | | |hills, and studded with dom palms.
Dom?) | | | |Water is said to be obtainable by
| | | |digging in most parts of it; that
| | | |at the N. end is bad. A well at
| | | |the southern end gives a good and
| | | |plentiful supply. There are three
| | | |patches of camel grazing in the
| | | |district, each patch being about
| | | |sufficient for 400 camels for one
| | | |day. From here a road branches off
| | | |gradually to the S.W. to the wells
| | | |of Terfawi (Id Koraim, or Abu
_Terfawi_ | — | — | — |Taraf), 8 miles on, lying in a
| | | |broad valley, under the cliff
| | | |above mentioned. Good water 3 feet
| | | |below the surface. Forty old palms
| | | |and numerous smaller ones, and two
| | | |dom palms, no grazing. This
| | | |Terfawi road is often used as an
| | | |alternative branch of the Arbaïn
| | | |road, and rejoins it further S.
| | | |Terfawi to Beris is reckoned at
| | | |five days. There appears to be a
| | | |direct road from Terfawi to Lagia,
| | | |five days over level ground
| | | |covered with stones.
| | | |
_Sheb_ | 10 | 358 | — |A blockhouse was built here in
| | | |1894 to guard against raids by the
| | | |Dervishes, and was attacked on
| | | |Jan. 8, 1895. Water slightly
| | | |brackish, but plenty of it; a
| | | |little grazing. Road from here
| | | |N.W. to Terfawi, 5½ miles. Road E.
| | | |to Nakhla, 40 miles, contains
| | | |wells or underground water at El
| | | |Haad, 5, Sederi, 5, Bir Suleiman,
| | | |13, and Bir Hasab el Gabu, 9 miles
| | | |intermediate. From Sheb the roads
| | | |lead S., over easy ground for the
| | | |most part, to the oasis of Selima.
| | | |
_Selima_ | 82 | 440 | 27 45 |Named after a legendary Amazon
| | | |Princess (?). A small oasis,
| | | |commanded on all sides by rocky
| | | |hills, those on the N. being
| | | |considerably higher and steeper.
| | | |The water, obtained from numerous
| | | |wells about 2 feet deep, is
| | | |sufficient for a force of 1,000
| | | |men. It has a strong sulphurous
| | | |taste and smell. The oasis is
| | | |uninhabited, but is occasionally
| | | |visited by the neighbouring tribes
| | | |for the sake of the salt and dates
| | | |which are found there. The salt
| | | |lies in beds covered by 1 to 3
| | | |feet of sand, and has to be broken
| | | |out.
| | | |
| | | |There are some 2,000 fruit-bearing
| | | |date palms, but these are at
| | | |present choked in a thick
| | | |undergrowth. Dates very good.
| | | |
| | | |There is plenty of grazing.
| | | |
| | | |From Selima a road leads in a S.E.
| | | |direction for 80 miles to Sagiet
| | | |El Abd, on the Nile. No water on
| | | |the way.
| | | |
| | | |For further description of this
| | | |oasis, _vide_ Part I., Chap. IX.,
| | | |pp. 202-3.
----------+--------+-------+---------+----------------------------------
(_c._)—SELIMA TO LAGIA.
(Lieut. Stuart Wortley, July, 1884; Captain H. Hodgson, 1901,
1903, &c.)
-------------+---------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
+-------------+-------+
Place. | | Total | Description.
|Intermediate.| from |
| |Assiut.|
-------------+-------------+-------+----------------------------------
_Selima_, | — | 440 |On leaving Selima the track, well
from Assiut | | |defined by camel skeletons, goes
| | |in a westerly direction for 6
| | |miles over hard sand, after which
| | |it turns S.W.; small conical hills
| | |to W. for 30 miles. Occasional
| | |camel skeletons, but no track.
| | |Succession of rocky ridges.
| | |
| 33 | 473 |High conical hill to W. Extensive
| | |view. All hills crossed are steep
| | |on the N. side, and slope
| | |gradually to the S. (This is
| | |reversed at Selima and Lagia.)
| | |Going rocky and bad.
| | |
J. Hadada and| 24 | 497 |Pass between these two hills, J.
J. Hamadia | | |Hadada to the E. Low ranges of
| | |hills, running S.E. and N.W.
| | |
| 40 | 537 |Descend into hard sandy plain,
| | |extending for 20 miles. Country
| | |then becomes very rocky and
| | |difficult for camels; no track
| | |discernible. Range of sand hills
| | |to W. called J. Ruhilat.
| | |
| | |J. Gabra, a round-topped hill,
| | |rising out of valley called Lagia,
| | |seen from a distance of 35 miles.
| | |Road descends by a gorge of deep
| | |sand into the valley 10 miles long
| | |and 1 mile broad, running E. and
| | |W.
| | |
_Lagia | 43 | 580 |Water about 4 miles from the
(Kebir)_ | | [37] |gorge. Three wells filled with
| | |sand water, water has to be
| | |cleared, or fresh well opened,
| | |otherwise it gets bad. Water good
| | |in itself. No vegetation; water 6
| | |feet below surface; country
| | |barren; petrified wood abundant.
| | |Several tracks cross here.
| | |
| | |Captain Hodgson states:—
| | |
| | |
| | |At Lagia Kebir, or Agar, are five
| | |or six pans of water, good and
| | |near the surface, springing from
| | |similar soil to Lagia the Less,
| | |but not so abundant. The wells lie
| | |in an open plain, no vegetation
| | |near except about six or ten small
| | |trees about 3½ miles to W., giving
| | |a little feeding for camels. To
| | |the N. the plain is shut in by a
| | |steep rocky ridge of hills, and
| | |the road to Selima Wells lies
| | |across it. On reaching summit of
| | |ridge there is only a stretch of
| | |rock and stones to be seen. Arabs
| | |state it is the road to Selima and
| | |there is no grazing.
| | |
| | |In the event of not finding a
| | |water pan open, the water lies
| | |some 20 yards S. of a low clump of
| | |date seedlings, the only ones in
| | |the valley. There are some black
| | |rocks in the plain, on the track
| | |from Bir Sultan, which lie 2,700
| | |yards (by range-finder) from the
| | |abovementioned dates, and at an
| | |angle of 228° from them.
| | |
_(Lagia | — | — |Lagia the Less, lying 12½ miles
Amran)_ | | |E.S.E. of Lagia Kebir, also called
| | |Amran from the colour of the
| | |ground, lies in a plain about 5
| | |miles wide, surrounded entirely by
| | |rocky hills; there are only two
| | |entrances through encircling hills
| | |that are easy marching. Water lies
| | |within a foot of the surface and
| | |is very plentiful; ground consists
| | |of red clay with drifts of sand,
| | |the Arabs say there was formerly
| | |no sand, and that during the last
| | |few years it is gradually covering
| | |the ground, probably owing to dry
| | |seasons.
| | |
_(Lagia bil | — | — |Some bushes half a mile from the
Hêt)_ | | |water. At a distance of one day’s
| | |journey to the E. of Lagia there
| | |is said to be a well, called Lagia
| | |bil Hêt, on account of a Roman
| | |wall built close by (?) (Omar et
| | |Tunsi).
| | |
| | |To the S. the road to Bir Sultan
| | |lies across an open plain and is
| | |easy going. The tracks spread
| | |considerably.
| | |
| | |An oasis is reported to lie 4
| | |days’ journey in a S.W. direction,
| | |containing date trees, which is
| | |visited at date harvest time by
| | |the Bedai tribe. The water is said
| | |to be bad. Except for the above,
| | |the guides say they have no
| | |knowledge of any water to the W.
| | |of Lagia, and that there is no
| | |road with a direction of N. and S.
| | |lying to the W. of Lagia. The road
| | |Lagia Kebir to Dongola is 166
| | |miles in a S.E. direction: 7 days’
| | |march.
-------------+-------------+-------+----------------------------------
(_d._) LAGIA, _viâ_ BIR SULTAN, TO EL FASHER.
Captain H. Hodgson, Browne, and Natives.
Very little is known of this, the southern half of the Arbaïn road,
and no European (since Browne, 1793, who left no record of any value)
seems ever to have traversed it south of Bir Sultan.
From Lagia to Bir Sultan is 5[38] days’ going over easy country.
-------------+---------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
+-------------+-------+
Place. | | Total | Description.
|Intermediate.| from |
| |Assiut.|
-------------+-------------+-------+----------------------------------
_Lagia_ | — | 580 |On leaving Lagia the going is
| | |fair.
| | |
| 47 | 627 |Low rocky mounds; dozens of empty
| | |paraffin tins lying about; place
| | |where caravans leave store and
| | |forage. Easy going, hard sand.
| | |
| 35 | 662 |Sand dunes to E. of track,
| | |continue for 5 miles. Road slopes
| | |slightly down hill, direction
| | |210°.
| | |
| 37 | 699 |Large black stone 10 feet high by
| | |roadside, 18 inches wide and 9
| | |inches thick. Landmark visible for
| | |long way from N. Marching becomes
| | |difficult.
| | |
| 10 | 709 |Low hill, distinctive landmark;
| | |black rock with white gypsum top,
| | |with pile of black rocks on top.
| | |
J. Kashaf, | 28 | 737 |Hilly rocky country, with gradual
_Bir Sultan_ | | |descent to J. Kashaf, which lies a
| | |short distance N.W. of Bir Sultan.
-------------+-------------+-------+----------------------------------
Bir Sultan, otherwise known as Wadi Natrun (the Natron Valley),
Bir el Melha, or Bir Zaghawa, lies in the centre of a plain, bounded
by hills to the N.W., N., and E. Three or four pans of good water;
ground below the sand being white clay. A little N.W. lie the natron
diggings, the natron being in a seam 2 inches deep, a few inches
below the sandy surface. One and a half miles E. of the natron is
J. Kashaf. Plenty of scrub and grazing. At Melani, under the eastern
slope, the soil is quite damp.
Bir Sultan lies 10 days due W. of Old Dongola.
Zaghawa, which is marked on some maps as a definite place, is the name
of the district inhabited by the nomad Arab tribe of that name. It
is full of khors and wells, and is stated to be 4 days to S.W. of Bir
Sultan. There is a little-used track from Lagia which passes through
Zaghawa district and proceeds towards El Fasher, but it is not the
Arbaïn Road. The Zaghawa people often come to the Bir Sultan.
From Bir Sultan to El Fasher the accounts of the road are
contradictory. One account states that it is 10 days hard travelling,
without water on the road, and that camels have to be specially
trained for the journey. Other accounts say that from Bir Sultan to
J. Meidob,[39] or to Bir Maharia (water at either place), the journey
takes 4 to 5 days; on to Toma, in the midst of a cultivated populous
district, 3 days; and on to El Fasher 1 day more. Another road appears
to lead _viâ_ Anka, 7 days from Fasher, and is said to take 15 days
altogether; this is the one said to be generally used.
(Browne, in 1793, went from Bir El Melha (Sultan), _viâ_ Medwa (?),
S.W. to Wadi Mazruk and then S.E. to Kobe, but left a very meagre
description of the actual journey.)
RECAPITULATION, showing approximate distances and days’ journey.
--------------------------+-------+---------
Place. | Miles.| Days.
--------------------------+-------+---------
Assiut | — | —
| |
Kharga | 126| 5
| |
Bulak | 15| ½
| |
Beris | 38| 1½
| |
Maks | 9| }
| | } 3
Bir Murra | 78| }
| |
Kassaba | 67| 2½
| |
Sheb | 25| 1
| |
Selima | 82| 3
| |
Lagia | 140| 5
| |
Bir Sultan | 157| 6
| |
J. Meidob (J. Anka 270) | 190| 7
| |
El Fasher (El Fasher 110) | 140| 5½
+-------+---------
| 1,067| 40
--------------------------+-------+---------
123.—ASWAN TO DERAHEIB.
COMPILED FROM A REPORT BY MR. JENNINGS-BRAMLY (1902).
_N.B.—Distances only approximate, and may be underestimated._
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Aswan_ | — | — |The road from Aswan to the well of
| | |Um Habal passes through a country
| | |destitute of any vegetation, but
| | |the road is well marked, being
| | |constantly used by the Eshabab
| | |charcoal burners going to Aswan,
| | |and the Bisharin, who go to the
| | |same market to buy corn.
| | |
| | |The two most marked points are the
| | |J. Butitulub, from which the tomb
| | |on the hill opposite the Aswan
| | |Commandania can be seen, and J.
| | |Umsuan on the Demhit range. The
| | |distance from Aswan to Bir Um
_Bir Um Habal_| 43 | 43 |Habal is a good day and a half
| | |with hamla. Bir Um Habal had
| | |plenty of good water at about 30
| | |feet from the surface in June, but
| | |the level varies according to
| | |rainfall, though, according to the
| | |Arabs, water is never at any great
| | |distance from the surface.
| | |
| | |From Bir Um Habal the road still
| | |lies through the hills, but soon
| | |leaving these crosses an open
| | |sandy plain, without vegetation of
| | |any kind. At the end of the first
| | |day after leaving Um Habal the
| | |road again winds between small
| | |rocky hills. The hills of J. Negib
| | |were evidently at one time mined,
| | |as there are the remains of old
| | |houses and signs of the quartz
| | |having been worked in many places.
| | |
_Bir Negib_ | 55 | 98 |Wadi Negib has a few sayal trees;
| | |the water is good and plentiful.
_Bir Heimer_ | 6 | 104 |Bir Heimer, about 3 hours’ march
| | |south, was formerly garrisoned by
| | |the Eshabab. There is always water
| | |there. The wadis we now passed had
| | |always a certain amount of camel
| | |fodder, but the grazing would be
| | |sufficient only for a small number
| | |of animals, and it would be
| | |necessary to go some way from the
| | |beaten track to find it. Once
| | |Jebel Gedir is reached the track
| | |runs through small wadis with
| | |hilly sides, and soon the Wadi
| | |Murra is reached; some way up this
| | |wadi there is a well, Bir Murra,
| | |which, as its name denotes, is
_Bir Murra_ | 18 | 122 |bitter.
| | |
| | |Once the Wadi Murra is reached the
| | |hills are left behind, and after
| | |about 5 miles the Wadi Alagi is
| | |reached; the wadi here is nothing
| | |but a flat bed of sand held in
| | |between low slate hills. The Wadi
_Ongwat_ | 16 | 138 |Ongwat, now followed, is at its
| | |junction with the Wadi Alagi
| | |profusely grown with handal
| | |(Colocynth) plant; but has only a
| | |few trees. The well of Ongwat is
| | |in the hills of J. Ongwat; it is
| | |not more than 3 feet deep, and has
| | |plenty of good water.
| | |
| | |The Bir Ongwat is the boundary
| | |between the Eshabab and Aliab
| | |tribes, though the well itself
| | |belongs to the Eshabab. A road
| | |runs from Bir Ongwat to Bir Abu
| | |Tabag; but the most direct road to
J. Maksam | — | — |Bir Eigat is straight to J.
| | |Maksam, high red granite hills, in
| | |which, after rain, much good water
| | |can be found. Through one end of
| | |the granite hills, before reaching
| | |El Deiga, a road runs, joining
| | |Heimer and Abu Tabag direct.
| | |
| | |The Wadi Alagi is very broad
| | |opposite J. Maksam, with only a
| | |tree here and there growing in its
| | |bed. At times during the rains
| | |this part of the wadi is
| | |cultivated. El Deiga, a pass
| | |through which the Wadi Alagi cuts
| | |the small hills at the northern
| | |extremity of J. Maksam, is also a
| | |boundary between the Eshabab and
| | |Eliab. The Wadi Alagi, from El
| | |Deiga to Bir Jugub, is bounded by
| | |small hills to the south and
| | |rather larger to the north. Except
| | |for a sayal or selem tree here and
| | |there no vegetation is to be found
| | |in the wadi.
| | |
Jugub | 40 | 178 |In the Wadi Jugub there is a well
| | |belonging to the Aliab
| | |(Kurbeilab), which is sometimes
| | |opened according to the pasturage.
| | |This wadi had more vegetation than
| | |any we had passed up to that time;
| | |there were growing besides the
| | |ordinary selem a few marakh trees.
| | |
| | |From Jugub to Eigat the road
| | |leaves the Alagi, passing through
| | |low hills to the north. J. Eigat
| | |can be seen from Jebel Jugub, and
| | |it could also be seen from J.
| | |Maksam if that hill were climbed.
| | |
| | |There is a continuous line of high
| | |hills from Bir Jugub to El Eigat,
| | |running nearly parallel with the
| | |road at some 5 miles to the north.
| | |These were El Jugub, J. Hadaiber,
_Eigat_ | 27 | 205 |J. Adrak, J. Eigat. The Wadi Eigat
| | |is well grown with marakh, heglig,
| | |sayal, selem, tundub and usher. It
| | |is a great contrast in its
| | |greenness to the Wadi Alagi, left
| | |the day before. The water at Eigat
| | |is near the surface, sometimes
| | |running, and at no time in the
| | |year more than a few feet down.
| | |The well belongs to the Aliab
| | |tribe.
| | |
| | |There are at Eigat many signs that
| | |in olden times the hills were
| | |extensively mined. The road from
| | |Eigat to Bir Neshd in the Wadi
| | |Alagi is bad, but passable, though
| | |hamla camels have some trouble in
| | |passing.
| | |
| | |The easier road, though four or
| | |five times longer, is down the
| | |Wadi Eigat and then across into
| | |the Alagi, which it follows to
| | |Neshd. Everywhere among the hills,
| | |from Eigat to the Alagi, along the
| | |direct road, are signs of old
| | |mining colonies. The Alagi here is
| | |green with vegetation, the arak
| | |grows everywhere, with marakh and
| | |heglig, and of course sayal and
| | |selem trees.
| | |
_Neshd_ | 10 | 215 |The well of Neshd, about half a
| | |mile up the Wadi Neshd, on the
| | |southern side of the Alagi,
| | |belongs to the Kurbeilab-Aliab.
| | |There is always good water here,
| | |but, owing to the rocks, camels
| | |cannot approach right up to the
_Kamotit_ | 4½ | 219½ |well. At Bir Kamotit, which is
| | |some half a mile up the wadi, the
| | |water is good but rather tainted
| | |by the herds that water at it.
| | |This well is the property of the
| | |Hadl family.
| | |
| | |From Bir Kamotit to the Deraheib
| | |the road always follows the Wadi
| | |Alagi, which is everywhere well
| | |grown with sayal, the bean of
| | |which is excellent food for sheep,
| | |goats or camels. We saw many
| | |traces of the wild donkey, but did
| | |not actually see one.
| | |
Deraheib | 9½ | 229 |Old mining colony. No well.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
124.—KASSALA TO MASSAUA.
BY LIEUTENANT H. H. S. MORANT (1898); COMPLETED WITH MATERIAL TAKEN
FROM REPORTS BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT (1900) AND MR. F. B. HOHLER
(1901).
[Sidenote: General Description. The road.]
The general direction of Massaua from Kassala is almost due E. From
Sabderat to Keren the Italians have cleared a roadway about 50
feet in width, from which most of the stones and all vegetation,
except an occasional large baobab tree, have been cleared. It is
so clearly marked that a stranger could march by it even on a dark
night. The only point of any difficulty is the low saddle at Bisha,
where there was still room for a good deal of work (1900). In its
long straight lines it reminds one strongly of the old Roman roads;
it crosses ravines and water-courses at whatever angle it happens to
strike them, but at many of the steeper ascents and descents narrow
ramps have been cut. In several places along it the Italians have
made new masonry wells.
The accompanying road report was made before the construction of this
newly cleared road—which from Sabderat to Daura Obel passes N. of
the old route, _viâ_ Algeden and Eladal—and there is no detailed
information at hand as to the water supply along that portion of the
route, though there is said to be no difficulty in this respect for
the ordinary traveller.
From Keren to Asmara, and thence after many zig-zags to Saati,
there is an excellent driving road about 14 feet wide, with the
exception of a length of about 6 miles before reaching Azteklezan,
which had not (April, 1900) been completed to the full width, but was
then practicable for wheeled vehicles. Throughout the length of this
metalled road the gradients are occasionally of necessity rather steep;
the kilometers are marked throughout.
[Sidenote: Country.]
From Kassala to Keren the general character of the country strongly
resembles much of that between Kassala and Suakin, and consists as
a rule of level waterless plains of firm soil, at times sandy or
gravelly, covered with fine short grass and scattered bushes of the
acacia tribe, and intersected here and there by shallow sandy khors,
which during the rainy season carry off the drainage from the rocky
volcanic hills and granite koppies, which are so characteristic of
this particular part of Africa.
From Keren to Massaua the character of the country entirely changes and
the waterless plains and thorny acacias of the Kassala-Keren route are
replaced by running streams and precipitous mountains, overgrown with
euphorbia and wild olives, both on the ascent to the Asmara plateau,
as well as in the descent to the maritime plain of Massaua.
[Sidenote: Transport animals.]
For the entire journey mules are most suitable, but as far as Keren
camels answer admirably. From Keren to Massaua, _viâ_ Asmara, wheeled
vehicles, mules or horses. If the direct desert route from Keren to
Massaua be taken, camels are desirable, if not indispensable.
[Sidenote: Supplies.]
Milk, goats, cattle, &c., are found, as elsewhere in the Sudan,
throughout the route.
There are occasional small canteens at intervals, and fair stores at
Keren, and some good shops at Asmara and Massaua, where most ordinary
requirements are obtainable.
[Sidenote: Water.]
If desired to move a force larger than a company along this route,
enquiries as to state of water supply should be made, as it varies
considerably according to the time of year.
[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]
Speaking generally, the inhabitants between Kassala-Keren are
Beni-Amer; after that a bastard type of Abyssinian, &c.
[Sidenote: Climate.]
The climate along this route is on the whole good. Between
Kassala-Keren and Ginda-Massaua it is decidedly hot in March, April,
and May—probably in other months also. These are also the more
feverish portions of the route, though probably no part of it is
so unhealthy as Kassala. Between the sea and Agordat there occur
in April what the Italians call the “little rains,” which mean
very heavy thunder-storms; these cease before the end of the month,
and the rainy season proper begins towards the end of May.
The climate on the Asmara plateau is said to be delightful, though
perhaps the rains are excessive.
[Sidenote: Game.]
There is little or no game along this route, except between Kassala and
Keren, where ariel, gazelle, dig-dig, and guinea fowl may be met with.
ROUTE (JANUARY TO MARCH).
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Kassala | — | — |Head Quarters of the Kassala
| | |Province (fully described in Vol.
| | |I). From here the road follows the
| | |telegraph line and runs nearly due
| | |E. between Jebels Mokrani and
| | |Kassala, over a level more or less
_Sabderat_ | 17 | 17 |open plain to Sabderat, the
| | |village of which name is situated
| | |on the northern side of the gorge,
| | |through which flows Khor Tamarat,
| | |and is about 1½ miles on the
| | |Italian side of the frontier,
| | |which is plainly marked by
| | |pillars. Here there is a telegraph
| | |office and well with a never-
| | |failing and plentiful supply of
| | |good water.
| | |
| | |From this point a road has been
| | |cleared by the Italians which runs
| | |nearly perfectly straight to the
| | |vicinity of Daura Obel, where it
| | |bends to the S., and thence
_Metaui_ | 10 | 27 |follows the old track. This latter
(Algeden) | | |leads from Sabderat to Metaui,
| | |where a good well was found (in
| | |1898). The Arabs using the well,
| | |however, apparently live at a
| | |distance, and were not seen.
| | |
| | |From here the road ascends a col,
| | |and high ground continues on the
| | |right for about 5 miles, after
| | |which the road leads over a level
| | |bush-covered plain, and after
| | |passing two unimportant detached
| | |jebels, a well, named Aradeb,
_Aradeb_ | 12½ | 39½ |close to the northern end of the
| | |second jebel, is reached. Plenty
| | |of shade, but very little water
| | |(April, 1898). The path continues
| | |good over a level plain with
_Eladal_ | 12½ | 52 |scattered bush until Eladal is
| | |reached. Here there is a telegraph
| | |office, but only one well with
| | |extremely little water (April,
| | |1898). Continuing, the track,
| | |after crossing a low saddle,
| | |traverses a defile with high rocky
| | |jebels on either side for about 5
| | |miles, and then, after crossing a
| | |wooded basin, ascends a high
| | |saddleback, from the summit of
| | |which a fine view is obtainable.
| | |From here the track descends by a
_Daura Obel_ | 14 | 66 |rather steep and rocky pass to the
| | |wells of Daura Obel, which lie in
| | |the bed of a khor which finds an
| | |exit to the S., being shut in on
| | |three sides by high ground. After
| | |2 miles this high ground is left
| | |behind, and a similar distance
| | |further on another khor is
| | |crossed, apparently flowing N. It
| | |must be somewhere near this point
| | |that the new-cleared road
| | |previously referred to joins in.
| | |
| | |A level plain, covered with open
| | |bush, is now traversed, and after
| | |passing between two detached
_Bisha_ | 14 | 80 |hills, Bisha is reached. Here
| | |there is a telegraph office and
| | |small village, situated on the
| | |side of the hill, about 1½ miles
| | |N.E. of the well, where there
| | |appeared to be plenty of water
| | |(April, 1898). Two miles from the
| | |well the road crosses the top of a
| | |saddle from which a good view E.
| | |and W. is obtainable. The road
| | |then descends a stony ravine,
| | |about 1 mile in length, and a sign
| | |board was passed, pointing S., “To
_Shaglet_ | 12 | 92 |Well”; thence across the usual
| | |bush-covered plain to Shaglet,
| | |where there are rest tukls and
| | |many dom palms. In the khor close
| | |by, a tributary of the Baraka,
| | |there are several good wells.
| | |
| | |From near Shaglet the hills of
| | |Agordat are visible, and after
| | |traversing a plain (the scene of
| | |the first battle of Agordat)
| | |covered with scattered bush and
| | |intersected by several khors, the
| | |dom palms fringing the Khor Baraka
| | |are reached at the foot of the
| | |hills (100 feet high?), on which
_Agordat_ | 14 | 106 |are built the twin fortresses of
| | |Agordat. These, however, are both
| | |commanded within artillery range
| | |from the S. There are one or more
| | |wells with any amount of good
| | |water to which there is a covered
| | |way from the main fort. Population
| | |8,000. But few stores can be
| | |purchased here. The climate is hot
| | |and considered unhealthy, though
| | |it is the only station in the
| | |colony, except perhaps Massawa,
| | |that can be compared with Kassala
| | |in that respect.
| | |
| | |The road now crosses the sandy bed
| | |of the Khor Baraka and traverses
| | |an undulating, tolerably open
| | |plain (the scene of the second
| | |fight with the Dervishes), and
| | |recrossing the Baraka about 7
| | |miles further on continues up its
| | |valley to Adarte, where there are
_Adarte_ | 17 | 123 |wells with rather a meagre water
| | |supply. From here the path
| | |continues up the scattered bush-
| | |covered valley of a tributary of
| | |the Baraka, until Agat is reached;
_Agat_ | 10 | 133 |here there are several wells, and
| | |water seems plentiful. After
| | |leaving Agat, the valley narrows
| | |considerably, though the plain
| | |which bears slight indications of
| | |cultivation (the first seen since
| | |leaving Kassala) continues level
| | |until reaching the foot of the
| | |somewhat steep ascent to the
| | |plateau (4,470 feet approx.) on
_Keren_ | 11 | 144 |which the fortress and town of
| | |Keren are situated. This of course
| | |belonged to Egypt in the old days,
| | |and was then known as Senhit, from
| | |the name of a small village still
| | |existing. The fort, which is built
| | |on a detached hill about 150 feet
| | |high, contains a well, but is
| | |itself commanded by the hills to
| | |the S. and S.W. within
| | |comparatively easy artillery
| | |range.
| | |
| | |The water supply is good, but fuel
| | |is scarce in the immediate
| | |neighbourhood. There is a rather
| | |large market, some good stores,
| | |canteens, Post and Telegraph
| | |Office, &c. The climate here is
| | |comparatively cool and healthy.
| | |
| | |After quitting Keren, the general
| | |character of the country changes
| | |almost at once, and a series of
| | |precipitous hills and mountains,
| | |with perennial streams, are
| | |encountered.
| | |
| | |The best route to Massaua is that
| | |by the new metalled coach road
| | |_viâ_ Asmara. This road, after
| | |traversing undulating country for
_Khor Anseba_ | 6½ | 150½ |about 8½ miles crosses the bed of
| | |the Khor Anseba, in which are
| | |pools during most of the dry
| | |season.
| | |
| | |From here there is an almost
| | |continuous ascent till reaching
| | |Azteklesan.
| | |
_Halibaret_ | 6½ | 157 |Six and a half miles further on
| | |the narrow stream of Halibaret is
| | |met; good running water.
| | |
| | |From here there is a direct
| | |caravan route to Massaua, but
| | |water along it is rather scarce,
| | |especially in the dry season.
| | |
| | |[The following is an account:—
| | |
[_Halibaret_ | — | 157 |Leaving Halibaret by the direct
| | |track at the bottom of the valley
| | |the path is open, level, and easy.
| | |There is a little water to be
| | |found in the valley of the Maldi,
| | |but it is scarce in the Beloa
| | |valley, which is quite dry from
| | |January to June. The descent to
| | |the Beloa is bad. From Magasas
| | |there is a slight descent to the
| | |valley of the Maldi, and thence
_Ambelako_ | 25 | 182 |the road is good to Ambelako, near
| | |where running water is found at
| | |Galushima.
| | |
_Fil Fil_ | 8 | 190 |Good running water. Between Fil
| | |Fil and Gergeret there are some
| | |very steep and stony ascents and
| | |descents, which are difficult for
| | |camel caravans. Same applies to
| | |the Ailet defile later on, which
| | |however is not so steep, being
| | |merely the stony bed of a stream.
| | |The track crosses three ranges of
| | |thickly wooded hills, and water is
| | |found in the Solomoni valley,
| | |about half way to Gergeret. The
| | |forest becomes less dense and the
| | |trees smaller as one approaches
| | |Gergeret.
| | |
_Gergeret_ | 10 | 202 |Good water is found in abundance
| | |here, except in the months of July
| | |and October, when the supply
| | |diminishes considerably.
| | |
_Ailet_ | 8 | 210 |From Gergeret to Ailet the heat is
| | |often intense, and there is a
| | |complete absence of water. Road
| | |mostly very stony, especially in
| | |the Ailet Gorge. Water bad and
| | |scarce.
| | |
[_Saati_ | 11 | 221 |
| | |
| | |_N.B.—This route report from
| | |Halibaret to Saati is not very
| | |reliable._]
| | |
Halibaret | — | 157 |Soon after crossing this the
(stream) | | |ascent to the Asmara plateau
| | |begins in earnest, and the road
| | |zig-zags up rugged mountain sides
| | |until the summit is reached, at
_Azteklesan_ | 13½ | 170½ |Azteklesan, a tukl village, which
| | |had a couple of small canteens
| | |(April, 1898), rest-houses, and a
| | |plentiful supply of water.
| | |
| | |From here the direct road winds
| | |along over at first rather a hilly
| | |bit of country covered with
| | |scattered bush and trees, and
| | |occasional khors, generally with
| | |water in them, until reaching
_Siuma Negus_ | 8 | 178½ |Siuma Negus, where there is a
| | |stream of good water, and a fair-
| | |sized village. The metalled coach
| | |road, after leaving Azteklesan,
| | |makes a considerable detour to the
| | |N., and is 3 or 4 miles longer.
| | |From here to Asmara, an open and
| | |slightly undulating fertile plain
| | |extends, dotted here and there
| | |with villages and several running
| | |streamlets.
| | |
_Asmara_ | 11½ | 190 |This is the capital of Eritrea,
| | |and residence of the Governor and
| | |Military Commandant. It is a
| | |military station of great
| | |importance to the Colony, and
| | |consequently has a considerable
| | |garrison. There is also a
| | |practically impregnable and
| | |heavily armed fort, as well as
| | |others of lesser importance. In
| | |the town, which has made great
| | |strides of late, are some
| | |excellent shops kept by Europeans,
| | |though, beyond the actual
| | |officials, Italians have not yet
| | |colonized to any extent. There is
| | |a R.C. Church, club, and some fair
| | |cafés.
| | |
| | |The Government of Eritrea is
| | |carried on by a Civilian Governor-
| | |General and a Military Commandant.
| | |
| | |The Army consists (1901) of 600
| | |Italian soldiers and about 7,000
| | |natives. The artillery corps is
| | |recruited from blacks.
| | |
| | |Asmara being roughly 7,000 feet
| | |above the sea has a temperate
| | |climate, and frost is not
| | |uncommon. There is a considerable
| | |rainfall in the summer months.
| | |
| | |From Asmara to Ginda the most
| | |direct road is the mule track
| | |which follows the telegraph line
| | |down an exceedingly rocky and
| | |precipitous descent which begins
| | |about 2½ miles from the edge of
| | |the plateau, which again is about
| | |the same distance from the town.
| | |After about 2 miles the descent to
| | |Ginda, which is through fine
| | |scenery, a deep valley, enclosed
| | |on either side by precipitous
| | |mountains, becomes more gradual.
| | |
_Ginda_ | 15 | 205 |At Ginda there is an excellent
| | |canteen (on a small scale) and
| | |good water supply (wells and
| | |stream).
| | |
| | |The distance by the coach road
| | |must be at least 25 miles.
| | |
Sabarguma | 5 | 210 |Between Ginda and Sabarguma, where
| | |there is also a canteen and good
| | |water, the mule track again is
| | |considerably shorter than the
| | |carriage road, and traverses
| | |comparatively easy hills which are
| | |covered with thick forest.
| | |
| | |Soon after leaving Sabarguma, a
| | |plain of the same name is crossed.
| | |This is noted for the intensity of
| | |its heat, and is said to have
| | |accounted for many of the flower
| | |of the Italian Army.
| | |
Saati | 11 | 221 |After crossing the plain,
| | |undulating open country extends to
| | |Saati, which was railhead (1898),
| | |though now the railway is said to
| | |have reached about half way to
| | |Sabarguma (1901).
| | |
| | |At Saati, which is about 400 feet
| | |above the sea, there is a canteen,
| | |but water has to be brought from
| | |Massaua by the single line of
| | |railway.
| | |
Massaua | 17 | 240 |Two trains arrive and depart
| | |daily. Massaua contains a good
| | |harbour, barracks, very fair
| | |shops, and at least one quite
| | |respectable café, but it is a very
| | |hot, damp, unhealthy, and
| | |generally unpleasant place.
| | |Beninfeld’s agent would probably
| | |be the best man from whom to
| | |obtain transport, &c. The two
| | |lines of steamers which call at
| | |Massaua are the “Florio Rubattino”
| | |and “Khedivial.”
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
125.—TAKARASHORIT OR AMBARAB ON THE KHOR GASH _viâ_ SOGADA AND
KHOR MAIETIB TO UMBREGA ON THE RIVER SETIT.
BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, MARCH, 1900.
[Sidenote: General remarks.]
From Ambarab to Sogada the road is good enough for camels, and is kept
open by frequent small caravans. There was also said to be a route
from Todluk to Sogada, which was however described as “bad,”
probably hilly.
Beyond Sogada the road itself presents no great difficulties, but the
absence of traffic[40] has allowed the thorny bushes to close in on
it to such an extent as to very seriously interfere with loaded or
riding camels almost the whole way to Gira.
Once the Setit is reached, there is no real difficulty about water,
but after the first 15 miles or so below Maietib the water is only
accessible at certain places. The further you descend the river,
the broader the strip of broken ground becomes on each side of the
stream, the further the road keeps from it, and the wider apart are
the watering places.
Probably the best plan when marching along the valley is to spend
the heat of the day on the river, and the night on the plateau above.
Water should be carried in fantasses, as skins get cut to pieces by
the thorns.
Cutting tools are desirable.
No supplies are obtainable nearer than Gedaref on the Setit. There
are no settled inhabitants east of the village of Wad Heleiwa, 11½
miles E. of Sofi on the Atbara.
---------------+--------------------+---------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
---------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------
_Takarashorit_ | — | — |This appears to be the name of
| | |some wells in the bed of the
| | |Gash, about 45 miles above
| | |Kassala. If not constantly used,
| | |these wells are quickly filled in
| | |by the sand; but as the water is
| | |not more than 6 feet to 10 feet
| | |below the surface, they are
| | |easily opened out again. The bed
| | |here is sandy and about 120 yards
Ambarab | — | — |wide. Ambarab is the name given
| | |to a grassy, and in the rains
| | |marshy, place about 1½ miles
| | |further up stream on the left
| | |bank.
| | |
| | |There is a road from here to
| | |Agordat. The road to Sogada leads
| | |generally in a S. direction for
| | |the most part over level ground
| | |covered with more or less thick
| | |bush, which offers no serious
| | |obstacle to camels in single
| | |file.
| | |
| | |There are several tracks, used
| | |probably at different times of
| | |the year. There are a few slight
| | |ascents and descents, but nothing
| | |at all serious.
| | |
_Sogada_ | 18 | 18 |The road passes through some low
| | |stony hills partially covered
| | |with thorny bush, and at 18 miles
| | |it leaves the village of Sogada
| | |about ¾ mile on the left high up
| | |on the S.W. slopes of J. Argoji,
| | |the highest hill in the immediate
| | |neighbourhood. The village did
| | |not appear to contain more than
| | |25 tukls.
| | |
| | |There is a large and deep well at
| | |the foot of the hill, but the
| | |water was reported to be bad.
| | |
Khor Angaleib | 1 | 19 |Track now crosses a level plain
| | |enclosed on all sides by hills,
| | |with openings to the W. After
| | |crossing the khor, signs of
| | |recent dura cultivation were seen
| | |at intervals on both sides of the
| | |road.
| | |
_Khor Gersat_ | 3 | 22 |Here there is a large well on the
| | |N. side of the khor, which gives
| | |a plentiful supply of good water.
| | |There are no tukls actually at
| | |the well, as the inhabitants
| | |prefer to build their houses on
| | |the hill sides, but there are
| | |several settlements in the
| | |immediate neighbourhood, all of
| | |which are included under the
| | |district name of Sogada.
| | |
| | |The inhabitants are Baza, or
| | |Badein, or Kunama. They are very
| | |much afraid of the Bazas of the
| | |Setit, who raid them
| | |occasionally, they say, under
| | |Abyssinian leadership, but they
| | |seem to be friendly with the Beni
| | |Amer, whose merchants purchase
| | |dura from them. The Sheikh’s name
| | |is Haidar Wad Ibrahim.
| | |
Dinti | 2¼ | 24¼ |From here the track proceeds
| | |nearly due S., but winds about a
| | |good deal amongst low hills and
| | |through thick bush, which, with
| | |one or two steep-banked khors,
| | |greatly impede the march of
| | |loaded camels.
| | |
| | |The hamlet of Dinti is passed
| | |about 1½ miles to the left on the
| | |slopes of J. Dinti. The
| | |inhabitants of Lakatakura were
| | |camped in this neighbourhood, but
| | |whether they had left their home
| | |on account of the failure of
| | |their water supply, or from fear
| | |of the Abyssinians, it was
| | |difficult to make out.
| | |
| 3¼ | 27½ |After some more tedious windings
| | |the track descends into a level
| | |plain, bounded by the Atbara on
| | |the W., and Setit on the S., and
| | |on the E. by an apparently
| | |continuous range of hills, at the
| | |foot of which lies the Baza
| | |village of Lakatakura.
| | |
Khor Gullui | 2½ | 30 |This khor is a considerable
| | |obstacle, being at least 15 feet
| | |deep and perhaps 30 yards wide.
| | |The sides are steep at regular
| | |crossing places. A few miles to
| | |the W., near J. Hamid, the water
| | |stands for a long time in the
| | |khor after the rains. That place
| | |is often referred to by natives
| | |as Gullui, and it seems to be on
| | |the old frontier of Hamrans, Beni
| | |Amer and Bazas.
| | |
| | |There is some Baza cultivation
| | |near the Khor Gullui.
| | |
J. Sabun | 5 | 35 |From here on to J. Sabun, a small
| | |isolated hill said to be on the
| | |frontier between Hamrans and
| | |Bazas, the track passes through
| | |very thick thorn bush, which
| | |greatly impedes loaded camels.
| | |
Khor Sanasaba | 3¼ | 38¼ |The track leaves J. Sabun just on
| | |its right and turns more to the
| | |E. The thorns are less
| | |troublesome, and patches of
| | |cultivation and open spaces with
| | |high grass are passed.
| | |
Khor Lakisaba | 3 | 41¼ |Track continues through the same
| | |class of country nearly due E.,
| | |and after ascending the Khor
| | |Lakisaba for about 3 miles, it
| | |leaves it and ascends its left
| | |bank, making straight for the
_Halting-place_| 5¾ | 47 |hills. Eventually it enters the
| | |valley of the Lakisaba, and a
| | |halt was made in its bed in a
| | |spot enclosed between the hills
| | |of J. Komkom and J. Agachina.
| | |
| | |There was no better reason for
| | |the selection of this halting-
| | |place, which was at least a mile
| | |off our road, than that it was
| | |perhaps the nearest point to the
| | |water at the head of the Khor
| | |Lakisaba, to which loaded camels
| | |could go without considerable
| | |difficulty. This water, the only
| | |water within about 20 miles in
| | |any direction, is said to be
| | |contained in a large cleft in the
| | |rock about 1 hour’s camel march
| | |beyond the halting-place. The
| | |cleft is high up in the rocks,
| | |and all the water has to be
| | |carried down by hand.
| | |
| | |There were a few Baza families
| | |there, who assisted in the
| | |watering of our animals and
| | |filling our fantasses, but the
| | |delay was very great.
| | |
| | |_Lakatakura_ lies about 3½ to 4
| | |miles N. of the Khor Lakisaba. It
| | |was deserted, and the _well_ was
| | |said to be dry.
| | |
| | |After retracing our steps for a
| | |mile we struck off in a S.
| | |direction, and followed a track
| | |made by an Italian hunting party
| | |a few days before. This track had
| | |evidently not been used for many
| | |years, as it was all overgrown
| | |with thorns, and was very
| | |indistinct in places. Fortunately
| | |the hunting party had been
| | |obliged to partially clear it for
| | |their camels, and after
| | |considerable difficulties we
| | |emerged from the hills after
| | |going about 12 miles, and reached
| | |the Khor Maichhi. Here there are
| | |many hashab, baobab, and sunt
| | |trees. Soon after the Khor
| | |Maietib is crossed, and places
| | |were seen where it is said water
| | |used formerly to remain even
_R. Setit_ | 21 | 68 |during the hot weather. After a
| | |few more miles through undulating
| | |wooded country the track leads
| | |suddenly on to the bank of the
| | |Setit opposite a large pool about
| | |1 mile below its junction with
| | |the Khor Maietib, which is said
| | |to be the old boundary between
| | |the Hamran and Baza tribes. There
| | |was some tobacco growing in this
| | |khor which was said to have been
| | |planted by the Abyssinian Baza.
| | |
| | |About here the Setit averages 100
| | |to 150 yards wide, with a good
| | |deal of running water in it,
| | |though frequently fordable at
| | |this season (March). Banks 20 to
| | |30 feet high with a good deal of
| | |tamarisk.
| | |
K. Debebi | 1 | 69 |Following river, down right bank
| | |K. Debebi and Abu Osher are
K. Abu Osher | 2½ | 71½ |crossed.
| | |
J. Mudassir | 4½ | 76 |J. Mudassir is left ¾ mile on
| | |right and after crossing K.
_K. Meshra El | 1½ | 77½ |Meshra El Gedad J. Elaklei is
Gedad_ | | |also left same distance on right
| | |place on right bank named Darfit
J. Elaklei | 1 | 78½ |is passed, and Khor Um Hagar
| | |reached, the jebel of same name
Darfit | 1 | 79½ |being 1 mile on right. Soon after
| | |crossing this khor, a track leads
_Um Hagar_ | 1 | 80½ |N. to Abu Gamal. Broken ground
| | |now begins.
| | |
_Helegim_ | 1 | 81½ |After crossing the island of
| | |Helegim and marching down bed of
Halt | 1½ | 83 |river, good shade is reached on
| | |left bank.
| | |
| | |From here, leaving the river
| | |which was running S.W., owing to
| | |impossibility of marching along
| | |it on account of ravines and
J. Um Hagar | 2 | 85 |thick bush, a N. direction was
| | |taken to foot of J. Um Hagar,
| | |then, turning W., marched over
| | |bad cotton soil chiefly along
Ridge | 6¼ | 91¼ |elephant tracks at foot of low
| | |ridge of hills left on right
| | |till, reaching a shorter detached
Hafeira | 7 | 98¼ |ridge, we turned S., passing
| | |Hafeira, an old burial ground of
| | |Hamrans, and descended to the
| | |river at Umbrega, where the Setit
_Umbrega_[41] | 2 | 100¼ |flows between white cliffs, Geif
| | |El Hamam, on left bank, and
| | |precipitous ground on right bank.
| | |The last 17 miles had been nearly
| | |all bad going, and game paths
| | |were the only tracks met. Game
| | |between Maietib and Umbrega
| | |plentiful. Lion, abu ma’arif
| | |(Roan Antelope), kudu, water-
| | |buck, tétel (tora hartebeeste),
| | |bushbuck, ariel, gazelle, oribi,
| | |dig-dig, wart-hog, hippo. Numbers
| | |of giraffe and elephant tracks
| | |were seen, but buffalo tracks
| | |only twice.
---------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------
126.—GALLABAT TO CHELGA.
BY CAPTAIN A. C. PARKER, JANUARY, 1904.
[Sidenote: General.]
From Gallabat to where the track crosses the Gandoa, ground is
undulating and track continually crosses khors which drain into the
Gandoa or the Atbara. Country bushed and rocky, but stretches of
cotton soil in places; from the Gandoa on to Chelga track gets worse
and gradients more severe and valleys running down from the Escarp
more deeply cut.
[Sidenote: Water.]
Is in plenty all along the road, there is not an interval of 10 miles
without good water.
[Sidenote: Supplies.]
Perhaps a little dura can be obtained at Wahni (up to an ardeb or two)
otherwise non-existent.
[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]
Belata Dasta’s village is at Wahni, otherwise no inhabitants except
roving bands of hunters, usually Tigréans.
[Sidenote: Transport.]
Mule, donkey and pony pack-transport only suitable, though camels
said to have been used as far as Wahni.
[Sidenote: Passes.]
The Emperor’s pass is a necessity.
[Sidenote: Game.]
Plentiful on Atbara and Gandoa.
[Sidenote: Escort.]
An escort of 8 to 10 men is necessary in case of bandits.
N.B.—W = Wauz = Khor. T = Tarara = Jebel.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gallabat | — | — |Leaving Gallabat, path crosses
| | |Khor Abnakheir; ground rises from
| | |khor rough and stony; about 300
| | |yards from it, a track leads in a
| | |more southerly direction to Kwara;
| | |track, running a little S. of E.,
Tarara Mariam | 2 | 2 |passes round S. end of Tarara
Waha | | |Mariam Waha (200 feet); skirting
| | |S. of this hill and its
| | |continuations, path is rough, cut
| | |up by small khors running S. from
| | |them; at mile 3, low hills begin
| | |on S. of track and continue for a
| | |mile, track rough, winding, and
| | |cut up by small khors running N.
| 2 | 4 |From here country becomes more
| | |open, cotton soil, and low trees
| | |until a small khor fringed with
| | |big trees is reached, and a few
_Khor Chincha_| 1 | 5 |hundred yards on, Khor Chincha, a
| | |rocky khor, water plentiful. Track
| | |meanders on through rocky ground,
| | |rough going, for a mile, when
| | |cotton soil and more or less open
| | |country is reached; another 1½
| | |miles, and a rocky khor is
| | |reached.
| | |
| | |(Khor Sababa.) A few hundred yards
| | |on is the halting-place Wahsha,
| | |steep cliff on N. of khor making
| | |waterfall when water sufficient,
| | |still rough going, cotton soil and
_Khor Sababa_ | 2½ | 7½ |rocky alternately; ¾ mile on,
| | |cross Khor Abd El Rizak Gowari (12
| | |yards wide), cotton soil thickly
| | |wooded at mile 10. A small khor is
| | |crossed and ¼ mile on Khor Goghan;
_Khor Koki_ | 3 | 10½ |at mile 10½, Khor Koki, or Shatta,
| | |is crossed; this is a very
| | |winding, deep khor, banks 10 feet,
| | |bed shingly, 15 yards wide, water
| | |very plentiful, good shade. Track
| | |crosses this khor twice more
| | |before leaving it, when country
| | |becomes fairly open, with small
| | |trees, and after 2 miles reaches
| | |and passes to S. of a small hill
Tarara | 2 | 12½ |(120 feet), Tarara Jingandibba (or
Jingandibba | | |J. Wad Manna). Path now
| | |continually crosses small khors
| | |running N.; at mile 16 Khor
| | |Ardeiba is passed, and 2 miles on
_Khor | 5½ | 18 |Khor Wandoferi is crossed (7 yards
Wandoferi_ | | |wide, banks 6 feet high, not much
| | |water, good shade); ¾ mile good
| | |going, and track begins to
| | |descend, and ½ mile on reaches
_Khor Aftit_ | 1¼ | 19¼ |Khor Aftit (12 yards wide, banks
| | |10 feet high, good water and
| | |shade). ½ mile on crosses small
| | |khor, country much cut up. 1½
_Khor Shahadi_| 2 | 21¼ |miles on Khor Shahadi (16 yards
| | |wide, deep pools, general
| | |direction N.) is crossed; ¾ mile
| | |on path skirts edge of cliff 50
| | |feet high, at bottom of which is
| | |Khor Shahadi; at mile 23¾ track
| | |descends rapidly, and ¼ mile on
| | |crosses small khor; ½ mile further
| | |on small khor of flowing water,
_Khor Gandoa_ | 4 | 25¼ |and at mile 25¼ Khor Gandoa (50
| | |yards wide in deep pools). From
| | |this point road to Dagussa leads
| | |off up left bank of Gandoa.
| | |Crossing Gandoa, track runs almost
| | |parallel with it, low hills 1,000
| | |yards off to N. and also on other
| | |side of Gandoa; at mile 27 track
| | |crosses Ofing Gandoa W. (small,
| 2¼ | 27½ |with water), and at mile 27½
| | |passes close S. of a hill (200
| | |feet). Bamboos now first observed
| | |in abundance; ¼ mile on path
| | |crosses Jirar W. (15 yards wide,
| ½ | 28 |pools of water). At mile 28 path
| | |passes close N. of a low hill
| | |running down towards the Gandoa,
| 2½ | 30½ |and at mile 30½ close S. of
| | |another hill, low hills still to
_Agam W._ | 2¼ | 32¾ |N.; 2¼ miles on reach Agam W.,
| | |flowing water (named from the
| | |lilac-like flowering bush growing
| | |there). At mile 33¼ cross small
| | |khor, and another khor 2 miles
| | |from Agam W., low hills now only
| | |250 yards off to N.; ½ mile on
| | |pass close to S. of another hill.
| 3¼ | 36 |At mile 36 track crosses a small
| | |stony khor with a thick fringe of
| | |bamboos, and ¾ mile on close round
| | |the S. of a bluff; ¾ mile small
_Abai W._ | 2 | 38 |khor, and at mile 38 reaches Abai
| | |W., a running stream coming from
| | |among some hills about 600 feet
| | |high and 1,500 yards off N. of
| | |road. Track now leads up the
| | |valley of a small khor with low
| | |hills on both sides quite close,
| | |dense jungle of bamboo, high
| | |grass, etc., but after 1¼ miles
| | |begins to ascend a spur rapidly,
| | |and in course of the next half
| | |mile rises about 200 feet, then
| | |across a flat with amphitheatre of
| | |precipitous flat-topped hills (600
| | |feet) to N., about 2,000 yards
_Tarara | 3 | 41 |off, to southern end of Tarara
Kamachela_ | | |Kamachela (700 to 800 feet). Track
| | |passes round S. of Kamachela, and
| | |close under it, running at right
| | |angles to its former direction;
| | |still under hill crosses khor of
| | |water, and a mile on reaches site
Wahni Suk | 3½ | 44½ |of Wahni Suk (no buildings). From
| | |the Suk there is very steep path
| | |leading up to the village of Wahni
| | |(uninhabited when seen); this is
| | |situated on the top of Kamachela,
| | |a plateau sloping away to the N.
| | |There is a little cultivation
| | |below (dura and cotton), but grain
| | |can only be bought in very limited
| | |quantities. From Wahni Suk track
| 1 | 45½ |resumes its old course; after 1
| | |mile a khor (10 yards wide) full
| | |of water is crossed, and ½ mile on
| | |track passes through two or three
| 1 | 46½ |low hills. ½ mile on a small khor
| | |of water is crossed. Here the
| | |“Candelabra cactus” makes its
| | |first appearance. Path now
| | |descends rapidly, and reaches khor
| 1 | 47½ |in bottom of valley about 250 feet
| | |below Wahni Suk. Since crossing
| 1 | 48½ |the Gandoa, khors have all been
| | |running more or less W., but from
| | |here, after ascending out of
| | |valley, another water system is
| | |encountered, the water running N.
| | |Path ascends and crosses spurs,
| | |running N. from a square
| | |precipitous hill, Tarara
| | |Angedibba.
| | |
| 1¼ | 49¾ |At mile 49¾ saddle N. of Tarara
| | |Angedibba is passed over, and path
| | |at once descends rapidly into the
| | |jungley valley of the Baloha W.,
| | |some small khors are crossed, and
| 2 | 51¾ |2 miles from saddle there is a
| | |small hill on left of path; ¾ mile
| | |on track crosses Baloha W., a
| | |babbling stream 12 yards wide, two
| | |or three times, and at mile 53¼
| | |begins to ascend rapidly, and in ¼
| | |mile reaches saddle under Tarara
| 1¾ | 53½ |Baloha. Striking along the hill
| | |for ¾ mile track crosses a spur,
| | |and descends into the valley of
_Sunkwa W._ | 2 | 55½ |Sunkwa W., flowing water, reaching
| | |latter after another 1¼ miles.
| | |Path now ascends rapidly out of
| | |khor, and after 1 mile passes
| | |close N. of a hill (some 250 feet
| | |high); two or three small khors
| | |are crossed running N., and 2¼
| | |miles from the Sunkwa path reaches
| | |a saddle, hills visible N. and S.;
| | |path now ascends and runs along
| | |the N. side of a range of hills
| | |for 4 miles, when track skirts to
| | |N. of a knobby hill on top of the
| | |range; there is a little water in
| | |a khor running down the hill
| | |northwards here, but not enough
| | |for baggage animals; track now
| | |changes to S. side of range and
| | |skirts along, winding in and out
| | |between gullies and spurs until a
| | |small pool of water is reached in
_Savinki W._ | 3¾ | 66½ |Savinki W.
| | |
_Gint W._ | 2 | 68½ |From here track runs a few hundred
| | |yards almost due south, then
| | |changes to south-east, ground more
| | |level as nearer base of hills; now
| | |reaches Gint W., close under
| | |Tarara Wahamba, a jagged basaltic
| | |remnant. Track now winds for about
| | |a mile, turning continually at
| | |right angles, as ground is very
| | |rough and cut up by khors. Path
| | |finally crosses to south of Gint
| | |W., a running stream, and ascends
| | |a spur of Wali Deva range,
| | |rounding spurs and crossing khors;
| 3¾ | 72¼ |at mile 72¼ track, which is close
| | |down to khor, rises sharply up a
| 3½ | 75¾ |spur for 300 yards, and skirts
| | |along higher up. At mile 75¾ path
| | |again rises rapidly up a spur, and
| | |after a pretty hard climb of some
| | |1,600 feet passes up a cleft and
Top of | — | — |reaches top of escarpment at head
Escarpment | | |of valley of Gint W. Country is
| | |now open and rolling, track
| 2½ | 81¼ |ascends gradually for 2½ miles,
| | |when it crosses the watershed.
| | |Here a view of Lake Tsana is
| | |obtained. Path now descends, easy
| | |gradients, into the Goang valley,
Chelga | 3½ | 84¾ |and reaches Chelga at mile 84¾.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
127.—LAKE TSANA (GOJA) TO GANDOA.
BY CAPTAIN A. C. PARKER, ROYAL SUSSEX REGIMENT, MARCH, 1904.
[Sidenote: General.]
Goja to Gallabat fair path, better than Chelga to Gallabat Road,
but after descent of Escarp there are several bad places.
[Sidenote: Water.]
Is plentiful, nowhere more than 10 miles interval without it.
[Sidenote: Supplies.]
Obtainable nil.
[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]
Abyssinian villages from Lake Tsana up to watershed. A monastry
at Mabra Solasi near Bamba. Stray hunting parties in the country
adjoining the frontier.
[Sidenote: Transport.]
Mule, donkey, and pony pack-transport only suitable.
[Sidenote: Passes, game, escort.]
_See_ route Gallabat—Chelga.
N.B.—W = Wauz = Khor = dry watercourse. T = Tarara = Jebel =
mountain.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
| 1 | 1 |Path leaves Goja in a northerly
| | |direction through high grass, and
| | |crosses a small khor almost at
| | |once. After 1 mile passes round
| | |west side of a low hill; 1½ miles
| | |on cross Anfordibba W. Full of
| | |running water; ground rises
| | |slowly; open country; path crosses
_Ariko_ | 1¾ | 2¾ |Ariko W., full of water, and,
| | |still ascending, leaves small hill
| | |on left, and at mile 4 passes a
| | |big tree marking spot where market
| | |used to be held.
| | |
Amusgebaia | 1¼ | 4 |“Amusgebaia”—legend says tree was
| | |used for hanging people. Cross
| | |four small khors, and, still
| | |gradually ascending, reach
Goanderat | ¾ | 4¾ |Goanderat village. Track crosses
| | |two small khors and gradually runs
| 2¾ | 7½ |up side of a small valley on to
| | |watershed; now descends slowly,
| | |and reaches camping ground at
_Barbaria | 1 | 8½ |Barbaria Kora (small amount of
Kora_ | | |water). Ground slopes away for
| | |another 1½ miles, when track
| 2¼ | 10¾ |descends rapidly down north side
| | |of a gully and, striking down a
| | |spur, reaches a saddle; now skirts
| | |north side of spur, path
| 1¾ | 12½ |descending rapidly. At mile 12½
| | |track passes along edge of a sheer
| | |precipice; shortly after path runs
| | |sharply down a spur in a more
| | |northerly direction; at mile 14 it
| | |leaves spur and leads down steep
| | |rocky descent across small khor
Diloa W. | 1¾ | 14¼ |and reaches camping place, “Diloa
| | |W.”; said to be water in khor, but
| | |I did not see it. Track now very
| | |much shut in, thick bush and rough
| | |stony descents, an especially bad
| | |one at mile 16¾. At mile 17 track
| | |follows bed of small khor,
| | |crossing it continually, track
| | |bad, thick bush, shut in both
| | |sides by hills; at mile 19 this
| | |khor joins Ganbilo W.; juncture is
_Girad Mwat_ | 4¾ | 19 |called Girad Mwat, there is
| | |abundant water. Follows Ganbilo
| | |W., a khor 20 yards wide with
| | |pools, crossing it six times in
| 4 | 23 |the next 2¾ miles; track now
| | |passes between two hills, that on
| | |N. being very steep and probably
| | |end of a ridge which runs down
| | |from Tankal. Path now descends
| | |slowly, bamboo jungle, and 1½
| | |miles on reaches junction of two
_Goandera W._ | 1½ | 24½ |khors, Goandera W., water
| | |plentiful. 1¾ miles on path
| | |crosses khor (Tukur Waha W.); path
| | |now along right bank of Jira W.,
| | |25 yards wide with large pools,
_Ambo_ | 2¼ | 26¾ |then cross Ambo W. This comes from
| | |a spring about ½ mile further back
| | |in hill, where it bubbles up quite
| | |warm; a couple of hundred yards
| | |off on the other side of the Jira
_Mwat Abba | 1¼ | 28 |lie the hot baths Mwat Abba
Mariam_ | | |Mariam. 2½ miles on pass to N. of
| | |low hill; hills on N. of path
| 2½ | 30½ |about 400 yards off, Jira W. still
| | |lying parallel with road but some
| 1¼ | 31¾ |way off to S.; at mile 31¾ track
| | |runs close to the Jira, here deep
| | |water but narrow for 500 yards,
| | |when a deep khor coming from N. is
| | |crossed; track now leaves Jira and
| | |leads up a defile down which a
| | |khor, a tributary of Jira runs;
| 1¼ | 33 |cross this khor for first time at
| | |mile 33, steep precipitous hills
| | |on both sides, path ascending
| | |dense bamboo thickets, reach water
| 4¼ | 37¼ |at mile 37¼. Ascent from Jira has
| | |been 300 or 400 feet; path now
| | |descends rapidly 350 feet, and
| | |leads down north side of a flat
| | |valley, path good, and reaches
_Wanenta_ | 4½ | 41¾ |Wanenta, water sufficient for
| | |party of 30 or so; now along north
| | |side of valley close under low
| | |hills; on south side of valley is
| | |a very prominent cone-shaped hill.
_Shimel Waha | 3¼ | 45 |Cross Shimel Waha W., water
W._ | | |abundant, and 1 mile on cross
| | |small khor, halting-place under a
Bamba | 1 | 46 |gemmeiza tree, called Bamba, track
| | |level and good; cross Jineta
_Jineta | 2¼ | 48¼ |Mariam W., running water, and 1¼
Mariam_ | | |miles on another running stream,
| | |called Mariam Waha W.; ¼ mile
| 1½ | 49¾ |further track passes close north
| | |of a hill; ground now broken up by
| | |spurs running northwards; path now
_Nefoing | 1¾ | 51½ |descends and crosses Nefoing
Gandoa_ | | |Gandoa W. just at the junction
| | |with the Gandoa; another 1½ miles
Jigebit | 1½ | 53 |on and Jigebit camping ground on
| | |the Gandoa is reached. 2¼ miles on
| 2¼ | 55¼ |cross khor of running water, and
| | |at mile 57 cross Barkurkur W., a
_Barkurkur_ | 1¾ | 57 |small khor of flowing water; 2
| | |miles on track passes south of
| | |Tarara Bisaurkudat, and ½ mile on
_Malkam Waha | 2½ | 59½ |reaches Malkam Waha W., a small
W._ | | |khor of flowing water. At mile 60¾
| | |crosses a khor of running water
| | |and another one 500 or 600 yards
| 1¾ | 62½ |on; at mile 62½ pass close to a
| | |bend of the Gandoa, and 1 mile on
Wahsha W. | 1 | 63½ |across the Wahsha W.; after
| | |another mile cross a big khor, and
| | |700 yards on a small khor with
| | |water; another deep khor without
| | |water is crossed, and then the
Gandoa | 2½ | 66 |Gandoa is reached. Path skirts it
| | |for some hundreds of yards till it
| | |reaches point where Wahni road
| | |crosses.
| | |
| | |Measurements by pacing, pace
| | |reckoned 32½ inches.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
128.—ADDIS ABBABA, _viâ_ GOJJAM AND LAKE TSANA, TO GALLABAT.[42]
BY MR. J. BAIRD, MAY, 1901.
------------+---------------+-------------+-----------------------------
| Miles. | |
Place. +--------+------+Hours’ march.| Description.
| Inter- |Total.| |
|mediate.| | |
------------+--------+------+-------------+-----------------------------
| | | H. M. |
| | | |
Addis Abbaba| — | — | — |The road from Addis Abbaba is
| | | |rough and hilly. Three
| | | |nullahs are crossed, two of
| | | |them with steep sides. No
| | | |fuel. Barley can be bought.
| | | |Excellent grazing. Two good
| | | |streams 50 yards from camp
| | | |(S.).
| | | |
_Sallulta_ | 4 | 4 | 1 50 |Excellent going over
| | | |undulating grass country. Six
| | | |streams crossed, all easy and
| | | |containing a fair supply of
| | | |water. Many villages and much
| | | |ploughed land _en route_.
| | | |Cattle and horses numerous;
| | | |fuel plentiful. Last hour’s
| | | |march through acacia scrub.
| | | |Good stream. Supplies as
| | | |before.
| | | |
Muggur-Affaf| 21½ | 25½ | 8 35 |The descent into the Muggur,
| | | |commencement of which is
| | | |reached 2 hours after leaving
| | | |camp, is precipitous and
| | | |unrideable. Loaded mules get
| | | |down with difficulty. Muggur
| | | |reached 4 hours from start.
| | | |Ascent to other (N.) side of
| | | |valley is easier, but also
| | | |mostly unrideable. Camp at
| | | |edge of S. plateau. No water
| | | |between camps, except Muggur.
_Yaïya_ | 16½ | 42 | 7 5 |Two villages passed in
| | | |valley, one on either side of
| | | |river. Some cotton and barley
| | | |grown. Monkeys and florican
| | | |on hills. Each side of River
| | | |Muggur 2,800 feet below
| | | |either plateau. Grazing bad;
| | | |barley and sheep in small
| | | |quantities. A fair stream 100
| | | |yards N. of camp. Wood
| | | |plentiful in Muggur valley,
| | | |but scarce immediately round
| | | |camp.
| | | |
| | | |Easy marching over undulating
| | | |grass country; for the last
| | | |1½ hours through occasional
| | | |chavaha trees. Fuel scarce.
| | | |The hills, which are a mile
_Kessi_ | 17½ | 59½ | 6 45 |E. and N.E. of camp, are
| | | |wooded, but plains are
| | | |treeless. Excellent grazing;
| | | |fair supplies of barley and
| | | |sheep. A small stream 100
| | | |yards N. of camp.
| | | |
| | | |Excellent going over gently
| | | |undulating grass plateau. Few
| | | |streams crossed, and water
| | | |usually scarce and bad. No
_Jarso_ | 21½ | 81 | 8 35 |trees. A few villages. Few
| | | |cattle. A large market at
| | | |Jarso on Saturdays; barley,
| | | |sheep, and fuel to be bought.
| | | |Fair stream 50 yards W. of
| | | |camp.
| | | |
_Blue Nile_ | 14 | 95 | 7 0 |This camp is a very bad one.
(right bank)| | | |Tents have to be pitched on
| | | |the track, which runs along
| | | |the steep N. bank of the
| | | |Nile. Any amount of fuel. The
| | | |descent is unrideable, and
| | | |mules have to be unloaded
| | | |once to get through narrow
| | | |pass. River 4,680 feet below
| | | |S. plateau. Few mosquitoes.
| | | |Many crocodiles and good fish
| | | |can be caught in Nile. No
| | | |water between Jarso and
| | | |river. No grazing and no
| | | |supplies. Wood abundant.
| | | |
| | | |The first part of ascent is
| | | |most trying for mules. At one
| | | |part they have to be unloaded
| | | |and load carried up steps for
| | | |40 feet (1 hour 13 minutes
| | | |after start); the remainder
| | | |of the road runs over
_Dejen_ | 13½ | 108½ | 7 0 |successive plateaux,
| | | |connected by steep ascents.
| | | |Village of Mere (friendly
| | | |chief, Balambaras Nagau) near
| | | |top of ascent, and
| | | |considerable amount of
| | | |cultivation around it.
| | | |Excellent grazing; plentiful
| | | |supplies from neighbouring
| | | |village. Water bad and little
| | | |from stream 100 yards E. of
| | | |camp. Wood scarce.
| | | |
_Abukerk_ | 14½ | 123 | 6 0 |A good camping-place in
| | | |sheltered cup. Wood plentiful
| | | |on surrounding hills. A fair
| | | |number of villages in
| | | |neighbourhood, and some
| | | |cultivation. Excellent going,
| | | |mostly over undulating grass;
| | | |treeless plain from Dejen. A
| | | |few streams _en route_.
| | | |Latter part along wooded
| | | |western slope of ridge.
| | | |Excellent grazing; supplies
| | | |plentiful. Water, good supply
| | | |from stream 50 yards W. of
| | | |camp. Wood abundant.
| | | |
_Askatta_ | 7½ | 130½ | 3 15 |Camp on treeless slope of
| | | |undulating plain, over which
| | | |road led from Abukerk.
| | | |Several streams crossed, all
| | | |easy, and going excellent all
| | | |the way. Little cultivation;
| | | |good grazing. Supplies
| | | |plentiful at neighbouring
| | | |village. Water, fair supply
| | | |from stream 100 yards below
| | | |camp. Wood scarce.
| | | |
_Debra | 10½ | 141 | 4 30 |The track is hilly, and in
Markos_ | | | |some places the descents are
| | | |steep and slippery after
| | | |rain. Much of the road lies
| | | |through thick acacia scrub,
| | | |almost impassable except by
| | | |the main mule track. Water
| | | |plentiful. Track narrow in
| | | |places. Large market.
| | | |
_Delma_ | 18½ | 159½ | 7 0 |Small camping ground on a
| | | |slope running from N.N.W. to
| | | |a fair stream running W.
| | | |Excellent going, alternately
| | | |through cultivation, bush and
| | | |plain. Many rivers _en
| | | |route_, all easily crossed.
| | | |Grazing bad. Villages in
| | | |neighbourhood numerous.
| | | |Barley plentiful and cheap.
| | | |Wood and water abundant.
| | | |
| | | |A steep descent 5 minutes
| | | |after starting, and fairly
| | | |steep descent and ascent into
| | | |and out of Tumcha river; the
| | | |track, except for the last
| | | |hour, leads through scrub and
_Dembecha_ | 9½ | 169 | 2 40 |thick wood; the crossing of
| | | |the Gadlar is easy, low
| | | |banks. Excellent camping
| | | |ground on the E. side of
| | | |Dembecha, ½ mile from Gadlar;
| | | |first rate grazing. Barley,
| | | |rif. Market on Mondays. Water
| | | |abundant; wood on surrounding
| | | |hills, and can be bought.
| | | |
| | | |Passing through Dembecha the
| | | |road ascends gradually for
| | | |the first ½ hour some 200
| | | |feet over open grass country;
| | | |it then drops into a thick
| | | |forest, where the track is so
| | | |narrow and deep that two
| | | |mules could not pass in some
| | | |places; thick undergrowth.
| | | |After three-quarters of an
| | | |hour’s march, the Cherika
| | | |stream is crossed 350 feet
| | | |below the Dembecha; from here
| | | |onwards the trees and the
| | | |undergrowth are far less
| | | |thick, and the track no
| | | |longer runs in a deep rut.
| | | |During the next three-
| | | |quarters of an hour the road
| | | |drops gradually 250 feet, and
| | | |then falls 500 feet in 20
| | | |minutes down to the Kacham
| | | |river. The descent is easy.
| | | |The river in May is some 15
| | | |yards wide, from 1 to 2 feet
| | | |deep, with a swift current;
| | | |flat, wooded banks. Large,
| | | |flat, slippery stones make
| | | |the crossing rather
| | | |troublesome. The valley of
| | | |this river is about ¾ mile
| | | |wide. The road now rises 290
| | | |feet, crossing a spur which
| | | |juts out from the hills
| | | |bounding Kacham’s valley on
| | | |the W. and dropping again to
| | | |10 feet below the Kacham’s
| | | |level, crosses the Birr river
| | | |50 minutes later. The bed of
| | | |the Birr at the crossing is
| | | |some 80 yards wide, the left
| | | |bank 15 to 20 feet high and
| | | |the right bank lower; the
| | | |water (7th May) runs with a
| | | |swift current, about 1 foot
| | | |deep, over a rocky bed in two
| | | |channels, separated by a mass
| | | |of black rock. 200 yards
| | | |below the crossing there is a
| | | |fall of some 30 feet, below
| | | |which the river runs in a
| | | |narrow gorge enclosed by
| | | |black rocks; 300 yards below
| | | |this it is crossed by a rough
| | | |log bridge. The road from
| | | |here runs over an undulating
| | | |grass-covered plain, bare at
| | | |first, but during the last 2
| | | |hours’ march, wooded. The
| | | |Rivers Sarinwaha, Tamim, Lach
| | | |and Bakkalla are crossed, as
| | | |well as two unnamed streams;
| | | |in May they none of them
| | | |present any difficulty. The
| | | |camp is a small and bad one
| | | |on the sloping N. bank of the
_River | 19 | 188 | 6 45 |Bakkalla river. Wood and
Bakkalla_ | | | |water plentiful, also barley.
| | | |
| | | |As far as Monkussa the track
| | | |winds N.W. and W. over
| | | |undulating grass country
| | | |dotted with acacia trees.
| | | |Parallel to the road, on the
| | | |S. side of it, and apparently
| | | |about 5 miles off, runs a
| | | |chain of hills. The river
| | | |Birr flows past the southern
| | | |end, and the Lach the
| | | |northern of this range; they
| | | |join on the far side and flow
| | | |into the Blue Nile. One small
| | | |stream is crossed before
| | | |reaching Monkussa, and one
| | | |immediately after leaving
_Burre_ | 9½ | 197½ | 4 0 |that village, the Dawuna by
| | | |name, 20 yards wide; water
| | | |knee-deep in May, with a
| | | |strong current. The crossing
| | | |is troublesome on account of
| | | |very slippery, flat stones.
| | | |After leaving Monkussa, the
| | | |track winds through more
| | | |thickly-wooded country, and
| | | |eventually runs over a
| | | |treeless plain, out of which
| | | |rises the knoll where Burre
| | | |is built. There is ample
| | | |space for a good camp No wood
| | | |at the town, but easily
| | | |procured close by. Water
| | | |supply not seen, but must be
| | | |fairly copious. Large
| | | |supplies.
| | | |
| | | |This is the capital of Damot,
| | | |the seat of Ras Warke, the
| | | |governor, and the centre of a
| | | |populous, fertile, and
| | | |cultivated district.
| | | |
| | | |The villages of Waan and
| | | |Zoava are passed between
| | | |Monkussa and Burre.
| | | |
| | | |An easy march through a
| | | |populous, well cultivated,
| | | |undulating country. Good
_Chara_ | 6½ | 204 | 2 30 |camping ground on the edge of
| | | |a stream; villages all
| | | |around. Supplies, wood and
| | | |water plentiful.
| | | |
| | | |Eight miles through
| | | |undulating cultivation; cross
| | | |Fattom river, tributary of
| | | |Blue Nile, 40 yards wide and
| | | |3 feet deep at crossing;
| | | |stream sluggish. Then 2½
_Anjavera_ | 18 | 222 | 7 20 |miles through dense forest,
| | | |after which track twists
| | | |through wooded hills into a
| | | |fairly populous and
| | | |cultivated plain. Rise of 600
| | | |feet during march.
| | | |Inhabitants not very
| | | |friendly. Supplies as before,
| | | |and some cattle.
| | | |
| | | |Rise rapidly 300 feet. Cross
| | | |thickly-wooded ridge forming
| | | |water-parting between Tsana
| | | |and Blue Nile systems, then
| | | |drop by narrow winding track
| | | |through dense forest into
| | | |rich, undulating, well-
| | | |watered country, with patches
| | | |of cultivation. Track in
| | | |places very narrow, and worn
| | | |deep into the clay. Four
| | | |hundred yards N.W. of point
_Dangalla_ | 20½ | 242½ | 8 0 |where track emerges from
| | | |wooded ridge, rises a sugar-
| | | |loaf hill, called Zurachi,
| | | |about 1,000 feet, forming a
| | | |conspicuous landmark. E. of
| | | |track are several isolated
| | | |hills, among which is Saatma,
| | | |visible for some distance on
| | | |either side of Anjavera. Last
| | | |8 miles through populous and
| | | |fertile district of Achaffer.
| | | |Camp in centre of four
| | | |scattered villages. After
| | | |crossing ridge excellent
| | | |going. Wood and water scarce.
| | | |
_Ismaila_ | 7 | 249½ | 2 30 |Good camp. Fair water and
| | | |supplies.
| | | |
| | | |Cross River Barati, tributary
| | | |of Blue Nile; easy crossing;
| | | |thence up gentle slope past
| | | |Libtan, a large village with
| | | |considerable amount of
_Nefassa_ | 16 | 265½ | 6 30 |cultivation; skirt foot of
| | | |hills bounding valley of Blue
| | | |Nile on W. to Nefassa. Poor,
| | | |thinly populated district.
| | | |Supplies scarce; no sheep or
| | | |cattle. Water and wood
| | | |scarce.
| | | |
_Liven_ | 6 | 271½ | 2 25 |A good camping ground. Open
| | | |country. Good road from
| | | |Ismaila. Barley can be
| | | |bought, but no sheep; a few
| | | |cattle in the neighbourhood.
| | | |Wood plentiful; small water
| | | |supply.
| | | |
_Forehe_ | 9½ | 281 | 3 45 |Good camp. A good road from
| | | |Liven. Natives unfriendly.
| | | |Supplies and water scarce.
| | | |
_Konsuli_ | 5½ | 286½ | 2 0 |A small camping ground 100
(Lake Tsana)| | | |yards from the lake; a good
| | | |road from Forehe. Natives
| | | |unfriendly. Wood, water and
| | | |barley plentiful.
| | | |
_Goja_ (Lake| 19 | 305½ | 7 30 |A rough road through the
Tsana) | | | |hills which border the lake;
| | | |no water _en route_; a bad
| | | |damp camping ground on the
| | | |foreshore of the lake.
| | | |Another road follows the
| | | |water’s edge from Konsuli.
| | | |This is longer, but said to
| | | |be better.
| | | |
_Dumgi_ | 11 | 316½ | 3 0 |A good road, and a good
| | | |camping ground. Poor grazing.
| | | |Water from lake.
| | | |
_Berbera | 5 | 321½ | 1 50 |A good camping ground in a
Kora_ | | | |hollow; excellent grazing.
| | | |Water supply fair. Plenty of
| | | |wood. No supplies.
| | | |
_Ghimfyva | 9½ | 331 | 5 0 |A very rough march, and a
River_ | | | |very bad camp in a narrow,
| | | |rocky, thickly-wooded valley.
| | | |Cross water-parting between
| | | |Tsana and Atbara systems, 600
| | | |feet above Lake. Track
| | | |narrow, twisting, and in
| | | |places very steep, only
| | | |practicable for mule or
| | | |donkey transport; descent of
| | | |3,500 feet in last 5 hours.
| | | |Practically no grazing. Wood,
| | | |but little water in rocks.
| | | |
_River Jera_| 12½ | 343½ | 4 50 |Another very rough march. A
| | | |fair little camping ground
| | | |with good shade; a little
| | | |grazing. Plenty of wood and
| | | |water.
| | | |
_Camp near | 10½ | 354 | 4 10 |A good camping ground. The
water holes_| | | |first part of the road is
| | | |rough, but after crossing a
| | | |ridge nearly 1,000 feet above
| | | |the Jera river it becomes
| | | |considerably easier; thick
| | | |clumps of bamboo are
| | | |difficult for loaded mules to
| | | |get through in places. Hardly
| | | |any grazing. Fair amount of
| | | |water. Plenty of wood.
| | | |
_Ghindoa | 21½ | 375½ | 8 50 |A good camp; fair going,
(Gandoa) | | | |except for the thick clumps
River_ | | | |of bamboo, which are a little
| | | |difficult for loaded mules to
| | | |get through in places. A halt
| | | |can be made at some water
| | | |passed 6 hours 5 minutes
| | | |after starting. Hardly any
| | | |grazing. No supplies. Wood
| | | |and water plentiful.
| | | |
_Chincha | 22 | 397½ | 8 20 |Good going and a good camping
River_ | | | |ground. Very little grazing.
| | | |Wood and water as before.
| | | |
Matemma | 5½ | 403 | 2 0 |An easy march over a good
(Gallabat) | | | |road.
------------+--------+------+-------------+-----------------------------
This road from the lake is the one followed by the Emperor John when
he went down to Matemma with some 20,000 (?) men in 1889 and was
killed by the Dervishes. The rains had barely commenced during the
present journey, therefore there was hardly any grass, and water was
scarce during the first 3 days’ march from the lake. Both water and
grass must be abundant after the rains, and while these are falling
the mountain torrents are said to make the road impassable; it could
be greatly improved by clearing the bamboos and other trees which in
places almost conceal the track.
129.—ADDIS ABBABA TO FAMAKA (S. OF BLUE NILE).
BY LIEUTENANT GWYNN, D.S.O., 1900.
NOTE—
G. = Gara, mountain range. J. = Jebel.
T. = Tulu, mountain peak. K. = Khor.
L. = Laga, stream.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Addis Abbaba | — | — |
| | |
British | — | — |The British Residency is situated
Residency | | |at the foot of a spur running S.
| | |from the Entotto range, and
| | |bounding the Addis Abbaba valley
| | |on the E. It lies just clear of
| | |the most easterly native huts.
| | |About 600 yards immediately N. of
| | |it is the Russian Agency, and
| | |about the same distance to the
| | |W.N.W. of the latter, on the
| | |opposite side of the stream, is
| | |the Russian doctor’s enclosure
| | |formerly occupied by the Rodd
| | |Mission. For position of other
| | |European missions, &c., _see_
| | |Count Gleichen’s map of Addis
| | |Abbaba (I.D.W.O., 1897).
| | |
| | |The water supply of the British
| | |Residency is drawn from a spring
| | |on the slopes at the back of the
| | |compound, and a surface channel
| | |from the spring supplies a small
| | |tank in the compound for watering
| | |horses, &c.
| | |
| | |The compound is surrounded with a
| | |solid mud wall, surmounted by a
| | |continuous hurdle work fence.
| | |
Gibe (King’s | 1½ | 1½ |Lies pretty well in the centre of
Enclosure) | | |the town, on a long flat spur
| | |running down from Entotto. The
| | |enclosure is formed by a high
| | |wooden palisade, and at the
| | |present time an outer wall,
| | |solidly built in stone, is being
| | |constructed. Inside the palisade
| | |the enclosure is divided by
| | |numerous stone walls and wooden
| | |fences; the buildings are strongly
| | |built, but there are many thatched
| | |buildings and a lot of woodwork.
| | |
| | |Water supply is laid on in iron
| | |mains from Entotto, and there is
| | |an artificial surface channel just
| | |outside the enclosure.
| | |
| | |The town of Addis Abbaba extends
| | |about 3 miles from E. to W., but
| | |the houses are scattered haphazard
| | |and there are no streets; the
| | |tracks running between the houses
| | |are very rough, and the crossings
| | |of the streams are bad, in
| | |particular in the rains. A few
| | |rough narrow bridges exist, but
| | |are not used in the dry season.
| | |
| | |After clearing the town there is a
| | |wide flat spur before the Akaki
| | |(Western) is reached, which would
| | |form a fine camping ground.
| | |
_Akaki_ (1st | 4½ | 6 |Small stream in deep gully.
branch) | | |
| | |
_Akaki_ (2nd | 1 | 7 |Stream, 15 feet wide, 1 foot deep,
branch) | | |rapid, in a deep gully; very steep
| | |on W. side. The col connecting the
| | |Entotto with the Managasha Hills
| | |is a fine manœuvring ground for
| | |troops of all arms, and is, on the
| | |whole, flat and open, though it is
| | |intersected by a few narrow
| | |valleys draining to the Akaki.
| | |Almost all these contain water.
| | |The whole mass of mountains S. of
| | |the road is generally called
| | |Managasha, but this name strictly
| | |applies to the steep round-topped
| | |hill just S. of the road at the
| | |watershed. The main mountain is
| | |called Wochochu by the indigenous
| | |Gallas.
| | |
T. Managasha | 6 | 13 |
| | |
| | |Fitaurari Hapto Gorgis’s house
| | |lies a little N. of the road just
| | |where the descent into the Walata
| | |valley commences, and his
| | |territory stretches S.W. from this
| | |point.
| | |
| | |T. Managasha is well wooded, as
| | |are the steep slopes forming the
| | |escarp connecting G. Managasha and
| | |G. Foweita.
| | |
| | |The road descends this escarp by a
| | |fairly well graded, though steep,
| | |line, crossing several small
| | |streams.
| | |
Kaffa road | 1 | 14 |About 1 mile after commencing the
| | |descent, the road to Kaffa and
| | |Limmu branches off S.W. towards
| | |the sharp cone to Wata Dalecho; to
| | |the left of the road, near the
| | |bottom of the escarp, is the
| | |Abunas house, situated among thick
| | |trees.
| | |
_L. Walata_ | 8 | 22 |At the foot of the escarp the
| | |woody road stops and then enters a
| | |flat grass valley, in the middle
| | |of which is the Walata, a stream
| | |about 20 feet wide and 1 foot
| | |deep.
| | |
_L. Dalota_ | 5 | 27 |Between Walata and Dalota flat
| | |grassland, with a few Galla farms.
| | |L. Dalota, rapid, 20 feet wide, 1
| | |foot deep.
| | |
_Addis Alem_ | 1½ | 28½ |The road rises steeply from the
(British | | |stream to the wooded spur on which
Location) | | |Addis Alem is being built. To the
| | |N. of the road the escarp
| | |commences which marks the
| | |watershed between the Nile and
| | |Hawash, and extends without break
Addis Alem | ½ | 29 |from this point to the River Gude.
Gibe | | |The escarp and spurs running from
| | |it are well wooded and well
| | |watered, the main spurs being
| | |broken up into minor features. The
| | |British and Italian locations are
| | |side by side to the S. of the
| | |stream which runs through the
| | |town; the ground to the S. of them
| | |is flat for 800 yards or so, and
| | |at present fairly thickly wooded.
| | |On the N. it drops very steeply to
| | |the stream about 40 feet.
| | |
| | |No building has yet been commenced
| | |on the British location, but Major
| | |Ciccodicola has built several
| | |large houses of the ordinary Tukl
| | |pattern, and has laid out and
| | |commenced another house of more
| | |European design, the lower story
| | |of which is stone.
| | |
| | |The Gibe is built on a knoll
| | |between two streams, the drop
| | |towards the southern one being
| | |very steep. The main buildings
| | |will be on the N. shoulder of the
| | |knoll. On the northern slope of
| | |the knoll is a sort of park
| | |enclosed by a ditch and palisade.
| | |This is evidently intended for a
| | |defensible camp, as the enclosure
| | |on the top of the knoll is too
| | |small for any considerable force.
| | |
| | |Water supply is not very good for
| | |the town, but a main for the
| | |supply of the Gibe is being laid
| | |from the spur to the N.E.
| | |
_L. Barga_ | 5 | 34 |Road W. of Addis Alem, though not
| | |so well worn as between Addis Alem
| | |and Addis Abbaba, is, on the
| | |whole, well defined and good,
| | |being much used by the traders
| | |from Leka, Lekempti Walega, and
| | |Kelina (Chelim), and the soldiers
| | |of Dejaj Damasi, Dejaj Gumsa
| | |(Gabri Xiavrihir), and Dejaj Goti
| | |(Joti).
| | |
| | |At first it runs along a well-
| | |wooded spur, then crosses the
| | |Barga, which runs in a deep,
| | |steep-sided valley, 20 feet by 1
| | |foot; rapid.
| | |
_L. Jemjem_ | 6 | 40 |Between the Barga and Jemjem are
| | |several small streams with fair
| | |water. The Jemjem is 12 feet wide
| | |and 6 inches deep; rapid. Road
| | |runs at the foot of the spurs in
| | |open country; the escarp to the N.
| | |is steeper and the spurs are
| | |shorter; to the S. is the flat
| | |open grass land of the Hawash
| | |Valley, which would probably be
| | |very swampy during the rains; the
| | |road practically is the boundary
| | |between Ras Mangasha Atakem’s
| | |territory on the N., and Fitaurari
| | |Hapto Giorgis on the S. It
| | |actually lies, however, in Ras
| | |Mangasha’s country.
| | |
_Hawash River_| 6½ | 48½ |Between Jemjem and Hawash the
| | |country is quite open. Three small
| | |muddy streams are crossed. Hawash,
| | |20 feet by 6 inches; rapid,
| | |beautiful water.
| | |
_L. Bagaga_ | 8½ | 57 |A very small stream, draining to
| | |the Gude. No water between it and
| | |the Hawash on the road crossing
| | |the watershed. To the S. are the
| | |Chavo Mountains, and to the N. the
| | |escarp rises to a high shoulder at
| | |G. Ilfata. From this point the
| | |road traverses a succession of
| | |open spurs running N. to the L.
| | |Dabis, a tributary of the Gude. On
| | |the N. of the Dabis the escarp
| | |rises in huge terraced cliffs.
| | |
_L. Meiti or | 3½ | 60½ |Small stream, with good water;
Sellen_ | | |before reaching it a dry
| | |watercourse and two small streams
| | |are crossed.
| | |
| | |W. of the Laga Meiti the country
| | |is everywhere more or less wooded,
| | |though the trees are small, except
| | |by the streams or on the mountain
| | |slopes. This is due to constant
| | |grass fires.
| | |
_L. Hulogka_ | 7 | 67½ |L. Hulogka, 30 feet by 1 foot;
| | |rapid; is a fine stream. About 3
| | |miles N. of the road is a church
| | |and a hot spring. Between the L.
| | |Meiti and L. Hulogka, the L. Awaru
| | |drains a marshy valley.
| | |
_Tulu Dintu_ | 4½ | 72 |Road passes over rather a hilly
| | |bit of country, crossing the
| | |Taltale and Birbissu streams at 2½
| | |and 3½ miles respectively; both
| | |small, with good water.
| | |
| | |Tulu Dintu was formerly residence
| | |of Dejaj Hailo Hariam, brother of
| | |Ras Makunnen. Now few huts are
| | |occupied.
| | |
_River Gude_ | 3½ | 75½ |Flat country between Tula Dintu
Bridge | | |and Gude, thickly wooded near the
| | |latter; two tributaries of the
| | |Gude have to be crossed, both
| | |small streams with good water.
| | |
| | |The Gude is a beautiful stream,
| | |running from one deep rock pool to
| | |another at the bottom of sheer-
| | |sided channel, 30 feet deep.
| | |
| | |A good wooden bridge, 6 feet wide,
| | |on stone abutments, has been
| | |built, evidently under M. Ilg’s
| | |direction.
| | |
| | |The ground near the stream is too
| | |thickly wooded and confined to be
| | |a good camping place.
| | |
| | |The Gude flows N. to the Abai,
| | |cutting through the escarp in a
| | |wonderful canon about a mile wide,
| | |with sheer sides some 2,000 feet
| | |high. Beautiful scenery.
| | |
_L. Kili_ | 10 | 85½ |From the Gude the road rises
| | |steeply and runs round the
| | |northern spurs of the mountain
| | |group which culminates in G.
| | |Ragge. The first ascent is very
| | |steep, but road is fully well
| | |graded, and the conical peak of T.
| | |Befti is left to the right.
| | |
| | |Small streams are crossed at 4,
| | |4½, 7½, and 9 miles. About 4 miles
| | |N. of the road is a deep valley,
| | |running from W. to E. to the Gude,
| | |and on the N. side of it the
| | |escarp rises precipitously. The
| | |spurs of G. Ragge are thickly
| | |wooded, and are divided by steep
| | |valleys.
| | |
| | |L. Kili, a good stream, 15 feet
| | |wide and 6 inches deep, in a
| | |narrow valley.
| | |
_L. Aresu_ | 4½ | 90 |Road rises very steeply from the
| | |Kili over the shoulder of T. Boke,
| | |and descends steeply into the
| | |Humbolsha Valley (stream dries up)
| | |at 2½ miles, then a slight rise
| | |and another steep descent to the
| | |Aresu, a small stream, but with
| | |good water and a good open camping
| | |ground on its W. bank.
| | |
Chelia | 10 | 100 |From the Aresu the road winds
District | | |round the south-western end of the
(Gedda | | |Rafisokili Valley, passing over
village) | | |_numerous_ spurs and _small
| | |streams_. L. Mata Arba, at the
| | |third mile, is western boundary of
| | |Ras Mangasha’s territory, and the
| | |eastern boundary of _Chelia_,
| | |which belongs to Queen Taitu.
| | |Country much broken, and fairly
| | |thickly wooded.
| | |
| | |The village of Gedda, formerly the
| | |residence of Dejaj Desta (Ras
| | |Darge’s son, now dead), is on the
| | |narrow water partly between the
| | |Gude (Blue Nile) and Gibbe (Omo)
| | |basins; there is a considerable
| | |population and a church here.
| | |
_L. Garsa_ | 12 | 112 |After crossing the watershed the
| | |road drops at first very steeply,
| | |and then more gradually, into the
| | |Gibbe Valley; the surface of the
| | |road is good, and level ground is
| | |reached at the end of the third
| | |mile. At 1½ miles a road branches
| | |off to S.W., probably that shown
| | |on the map illustrating movement
| | |of Bonchamps’ mission.
| | |
| | |The L. Ambo, which combines with
| | |other streams to form the Alengo,
| | |is crossed, and the road skirts
| | |along N. of, and parallel to, the
| | |Alengo.
| | |
| | |Several streams are crossed before
| | |reaching the Garan, and the
| | |country is rough.
| | |
| | |From Gedda the escarp trends off
| | |N.W., leaving a wide plain,
| | |bounded on the S. and W. by G.
| | |Kwunchu Sodu and Tuka.
| | |
| | |The Garsa is a sluggish, muddy
| | |stream, running between steep clay
| | |banks. Good camping ground W. of
| | |it.
| | |
_L. Alengo_ | 5 | 117 |Road, after passing a few low
| | |spurs, runs over a flat, clay
| | |valley. The Alengo, 30 feet wide
| | |by 6 inches deep.
| | |
_River Gibbe_ | 6 | 123 |Road continues over flat, open
| | |country, passing close to the low,
| | |rocky hillock, T. Bertuma. The
| | |Gibbe, 45 feet wide, 2 feet deep,
| | |fairly rapid; clay bank, thickly
| | |lined with willow, bottom gravel.
| | |It is a tributary of the Omo, and
| | |the eastern limit of the Queen’s
| | |district of Chelia. Between the
| | |Gibbe and the Wama the country is
| | |Dejaj Damasi’s.
| | |
_Bilo_ | 13 | 136 |After crossing the Gibbe the road
| | |skirts round the northern spurs of
| | |G. Kwunchu, crossing several small
| | |streams and rather rough ground.
| | |Bilo is a considerable market and
| | |Customs post, situated on the W.
| | |side of the L. Tarli, a good-sized
| | |stream running N. to the Gibbe
| | |between clay banks.
| | |
| | |From Bilo the main road to Leka
| | |branches off S.W. between T. Sodu
| | |and J. Soksaw.
| | |
_J. Sodu Pass_| 5 | 141 |The Lekempti road keeps almost due
| | |W., passing just S. of the summit
| | |of Sodu. The ascent is not as bad
| | |as it appears, as the road is well
| | |graded.
| | |
| | |There is a wide open spur just
| | |before the final rise to the pass
| | |begins, which would form a good
| | |camping place. Several small
| | |streams are crossed in the ascent.
| | |
_River Wama_ | 12 | 153 |From the pass, which is a very
| | |narrow saddle, the descent is
| | |steep for 2½ miles; small camping
| | |ground, with limited water supply
| | |at this point. Then road follows a
| | |long spur, falling gradually
| | |towards the Wama. Wooded slopes
| | |and no cultivation. The Wama is a
| | |considerable stream, flowing in
| | |rather marshy ground between clay
| | |banks, but with gravelly bottom,
| | |30 feet wide, 2 feet deep; rapid.
| | |Shown on Michel’s and other maps
| | |as a tributary of the Didessa.
| | |Cattle and sheep plentiful and
| | |good grazing; the river is eastern
| | |limit of Dejaj Kumsa’s country.
| | |
_Nekempti_ | 24 | 177 |After crossing the Wama, the road
| | |runs up a long narrow spur coming
| | |from W. shoulder of G. Tuka. G.
| | |Tuka is thickly wooded and
| | |precipitous, though round-topped.
| | |At 5 miles, a road to Leka
| | |branches W. up a broad valley
| | |formed by another branch of the
| | |Wama. The Leka plateau at the E.
| | |end appears steep-sided and
| | |thickly wooded. Leka is the head-
| | |quarters of Dejaj Damasi, and is
| | |said to be extremely fertile,
| | |producing much coffee. From the
| | |Leka road the track ascends more
| | |steeply; country well cultivated
| | |and thickly inhabited. Long,
| | |narrow, steep-sided spurs run S.
| | |from the water parting formed by
| | |the western end of G. Tuka. Water
| | |is plentiful. At 15 miles is a
| | |small village and church. Between
| | |this and Nekempti many small
| | |streams are crossed and ground is
| | |much broken. Nekempti is the
| | |residence of Dejaj Kumsa (called
| | |by Abyssinians Gabra Xiavrihir).
| | |He is a young Galla, a Christian,
| | |and has built himself a church.
| | |His ideas are advanced, and he has
| | |a garden for European plants, and
| | |is trying to improve the native
| | |coffee and cotton. His gibe is new
| | |and well built. There are several
| | |Arab merchants established here.
| | |The chief market is on Thursday,
| | |but there is a daily market.
| | |
| | |Nekempti is on the watershed
| | |between the Wama and Angur, and to
| | |the N. the ground drops steeply to
| | |the wide flat Angur valley.
| | |
_Sasiga_ | 13 | 190 |From Nekempti the road runs W.,
| | |keeping near the watershed, which
| | |connects with the N. end of the
| | |Leka plateau. After about 5 miles
| | |it turns N.W., and several streams
| | |flowing N. are crossed. At the
| | |Sasiga market place on (Friday) G.
| | |Jimata there is a splendid view
| | |looking down into the Didessa
| | |valley, and across the Angur
| | |valley, towards the Limu hills;
| | |the Didessa and Angur valleys
| | |proper were, till recently, great
| | |elephant grounds up to the Abai.
| | |The elephants are now practically
| | |exterminated, and the ground is
| | |being brought under cultivation,
| | |though, as it is unhealthy, the
| | |people continue to live on the
| | |high ground.
| | |
_Didessa R._ | 24 | 214 |From Sasiga there is a very steep
| | |descent of 1,200 feet. Then the
| | |road is generally level, and
| | |crosses several streams before the
| | |L. Arso, where there is a fine
| | |camping ground at the 13th mile;
| | |thence there is a slight rise to
| | |the Tankara ridge, which is the
| | |eastern boundary of the Didessa
| | |ravine.
| | |
| | |From this ridge the descent is
| | |very steep, winding, and rough to
| | |the Didessa, slopes thickly
| | |wooded. The Didessa is 150 yards
| | |(?) wide, 2 feet deep; current 2½
| | |miles, stony bottom, beautiful
| | |water. Good camping place for a
| | |small party in dry season on W.
| | |bank.
| | |
_Merechi_ | 8 | 222 |From the river the ascent of the
| | |W. side of the ravine begins at
| | |once. The road is very rough and
| | |bad, and ground on each side is
| | |covered with bamboo. The ascent is
| | |in three distinct stages, the last
| | |being much the worst, no attempt
| | |being made to grade it. Between
| | |the first and second stage the L.
| | |Jirma is crossed, and a small
| | |tributary of it is passed before
| | |the final stage.
| | |
| | |Merechi, a small village, Saturday
| | |market, and Customs observation
| | |post. It is situated on the top of
| | |a ridge about 2½ miles behind the
| | |edge of the ravine. Between runs
| | |the Laga Jirma, and the valley is
| | |a good camping ground. This is the
| | |beginning of Walega.
| | |
_Gimbi_ | 12 | 234 |The N. end of the Merechi ridge
| | |runs up to the escarp, which now
| | |begins to trend N.W. The plateau
| | |is very undulating and broken by
| | |confused narrow valleys. There is
| | |a considerable population, and the
| | |country is very fertile. At the
| | |10th mile the Garsa ridge, running
| | |N. and S., is fairly well defined;
| | |otherwise the features are very
| | |confused. The Gallel stream, at
| | |9th mile, is a good size, but
| | |water is everywhere plentiful. T.
| | |Jerko, a very sharp cone 30 miles
| | |to the S., is very conspicuous,
| | |and the road to Dejaj Goti’s
| | |country runs N. of it, through the
| | |Siva district. Gimbi is the
| | |residence of Fitaurari Amenti,
| | |uncle of Dejaj Kumsa.
| | |
_Dungoro, L. | 13 | 247 |From Gimbi the general direction
Fincha_ | | |of the road alters and strikes
| | |N.N.W. towards Beni Shangul. The
| | |country continues well watered,
| | |cultivated, and populated, with
| | |the same confusion of narrow
| | |valleys. It passes through the
| | |small districts or townships of
| | |Siban (where Fitaurari Debaba,
| | |another uncle of Dejaj Kumsa, has
| | |a house), Aroji, and Dungoro. This
| | |latter is bounded on the S. by the
| | |L. Fincha, a considerable rocky
| | |stream, which is the last
| | |tributary of the Didessa crossed.
| | |
T. Eriwani | 11 | 258 |Five miles beyond L. Fincha,
| | |skirting the western slopes of T.
| | |Ghinghi, the track is rough and
| | |hilly. Several small streams rise
| | |in this hill and, after uniting,
| | |flow away S. between T. Jerko and
| | |T. Wallel, becoming, lower down,
| | |the Birbiri, which joins the Baro
| | |near Gore. T. Wallel is now very
| | |clearly seen to the S.W. T.
| | |Eriwani forms the watershed
| | |between the head waters of the
| | |Birbiri and the tributaries of the
| | |Yabus. Water is rather scarce
| | |between T. Ghinghi and Eriwani.
| | |Fitaurari Debaba’s second house is
| | |in a very conspicuous position on
| | |the watershed, W. of the road.
| | |
_Najo_ | 10 | 268 |To Najo the road is easy, and
| | |country open. The Lagas, Henna,
| | |and Dilla are crossed, the latter
| | |a considerable stream, in which a
| | |certain amount of gold washing is
| | |done. The sides of its valley are
| | |very steep.
| | |
| | |About 2 miles S. of Najo and 1½
| | |miles E. of the road is M.
| | |Camboul’s house in the midst of
| | |his trial shafts. This is the most
| | |promising part of M. Ilg’s
| | |concession.
| | |
| | |Najo is only a small village, but
| | |Dejaj Kumsa is building a new
| | |house there to be his hunting
| | |head-quarters.
| | |
Guti Mudema | 7 | 275 |Passing Najo the country begins to
| | |fall perceptibly, and is much more
| | |open. The undulations are broader,
| | |lower, and flatter. There is less
| | |cultivation, but many more cattle.
| | |The inhabitants are few, and are
| | |mainly engaged, it is said, in the
| | |gold-washing on the Yabus.
| | |
| | |Guti Mudema is simply a post on
| | |the watershed between the Lagas
| | |Alatu and Genasi and the L. Deivo,
| | |which commands a very extensive
| | |view into Beni Shangul and the
| | |Lega Galla country. The two former
| | |streams flow between clay banks.
| | |All this country was traversed
| | |after a considerable amount of
| | |rain had fallen, so all the
| | |streams were flowing strongly. As
| | |a rule, they would be quite
| | |shallow.
| | |
_L. Deivo_ | 2½ | 277½ |Flows in a deep valley, with very
| | |steep sides.
| | |
_Gori_ | 7 | 284½ |A small village, the residence of
| | |Fitaurari Densa. Road is over an
| | |open plateau with a strongly-
| | |marked escarp falling to the W.;
| | |to the E. a range of low
| | |mountains, running N., marks the
| | |great escarp from the western side
| | |of the Didessa and southern side
| | |of the Abai valley.
| | |
_L. Komiso_ | 3½ | 288 |The ground falls very rapidly into
| | |the Komiso valley, which is bound
| | |by a very steep, high escarp on
| | |the S. Between the Komiso and
| | |Mendi there is a wide broken
| | |valley, with the L. Sache flowing
| | |past T. Wandi, a well-marked hill
| | |2 miles W. of the road. This hill
| | |is the northern limit of Dejaj
| | |Goti’s country, which appears to
| | |extend up in a narrow strip along
| | |the E. side of the Yabus.
| | |
_Mendi_ | 19 | 307 |Mendi lies just S. of the last
| | |rise before the road makes its
| | |final descent into the Yabus. Here
| | |the promontory between the
| | |Didessa, Abai, and Yabus breaks
| | |into two ranges of hills, one
| | |running due N. by Gumbi and one
| | |N.W. towards the Beni Shangul
| | |hills through G. Gunfi. The road
| | |descends by the W. side of the
| | |valley in the fork, and is very
| | |steep and rough, the side of the
| | |valley being, as well, cumbered
| | |with with dense bamboo.
| | |
| | |Mendi is the last Galla village,
| | |and from there to the Yabus water
| | |cannot be counted on.
| | |
_L. Badeisa_ | 12 | 319 |Halfway down the descent there is
| | |generally water in small
| | |quantities, but the camping ground
| | |is uneven, confined, and with no
| | |good feeding when bamboo is out of
| | |leaf.
| | |
| | |W. of the road near Mendi the
| | |ground falls gradually, with
| | |slight undulation, to the Yabus.
| | |There is thick wooding, and till
| | |quite lately the valley was quite
| | |full of elephants, but these are
| | |rapidly being exterminated.
| | |
| | |Buffalo, waterbuck, hartebeest,
| | |and probably greater kudu are
| | |abundant.
| | |
K. Dabeisa | 7 | 326 |This practically marks the end of
| | |the descent, and the road from
| | |here to the Yabus is easy. Black
| | |population (very thin) begins.
| | |Bertas.
| | |
_K. Yabus or | 9 | 335 |Yabus is the Arabic, and Dabus the
L. Dabus_ | | |Galla variant of the name; was
| | |slightly in flood when crossed,
| | |and was then about 100 feet wide
| | |and 3 feet deep at the ford. There
| | |is another crossing further S.,
| | |near where the river breaks
| | |through the connection between the
| | |Gunfi and Beni Shangul mountains.
| | |
| | |N. of the crossing is a wide, flat
| | |valley with some scattered hills.
| | |
_K. Sheira_ | 5 | 340 |Crossing the river the ground soon
| | |begins to rise. There is a little
| | |water in K. Sheira.
| | |
J. Aside | 7 | 347 |A pass over J. Aside leads into
| | |the sub-district of Afodu, which
Afodu | 2 | 349 |is under a woman called Zem Zem.
| | |The village of Afodu is the head-
| | |quarters of a Kanyazmach, the
| | |Abyssinian commandant in Beni
| | |Shangul. Water is drawn from the
_K. Tumat_ | 2 | 351 |Tumat, in which there are always
| | |pools.
| | |
K. Mange | 7 | 358 |Through Beni Shangul there are no
| | |difficulties on the road, though
| | |the going is bad, owing to the
| | |amount of small quartz stones
| | |everywhere. The K. Mange is dry.
| | |N. of it and W. of the road is J.
| | |Fadamo, which is very steep,
| | |rocky, and thickly wooded. Here
| | |Abd el Rahman’s people made their
| | |last stand against the
| | |Abyssinians, and it took 12 days’
| | |fighting to clear the hill, both
| | |sides losing heavily. The final
| | |surrender was only induced by
| | |hunger.
| | |
_Bomo_ | 7 | 365 |At Bomo there is a small village,
| | |but like all those seen in Beni
| | |Shangul, it is half deserted. It
| | |is very difficult to form an idea
| | |of how thickly the country is
| | |inhabited, as the bush completely
| | |shuts in all the villages. A good
| | |many were seen from the top of J.
| | |Fadamo, but it was a very misty
| | |day and it was hard to make them
| | |out distinctly.
| | |
_Belfodio | 5 | 370 |This is the head-quarters of
Khamis_ | | |Fitaurari Mohammed Wad Hojali,
| | |brother of Abd el Rahman (Tur el
| | |Guri), and is generally called
| | |Khamis by the Abyssinians.
| | |
_Famaka_ (Blue| 60 | 430 |Remainder of route in Sudan.
Nile) | | |
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
130.—ROSEIRES TO ABU RAMLA AND DUNKUR.
BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN, C.M.G., D.S.O., JUNE, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Roseires | — | — |The road to Abu Ramla is a very
(Abramat) | | |narrow track much shut in by thick
| | |bush and grass. After rain the
| | |heavy clay soil produces a
| | |particularly heavy and sticky mud.
| | |
| | |For 5 miles from the river the
| | |bush is very thick and soil very
| | |heavy. From the 5th to 10th mile
| | |the soil becomes more sandy and
| | |the bush is thinner. At 12th mile
| | |3 large adansonias are passed;
| | |soil heavy clay but bush still
| | |open.
| | |
| | |At the 16th mile the road reaches
| | |the El Geri hills and turns
| | |sharply north-east skirting their
| | |foot. These hills are not more
| | |than 200 feet high and are covered
| | |with low trees. They form a
| | |continuous mass though much broken
| | |and rocky. Along the northern
| | |slopes there is a quantity of
| | |bamboo, and road is stony.
| | |Skirting round north and
_El Geri | 23 | 23 |north-east foot of the hills,
(Sheikh’s | | |road comes to a small Hameg
Village)_ | | |village. Water (the first since
| | |Roseires) is obtained up a steep
| | |valley 1 mile south of the
| | |village. Road skirts the hills to
| | |this point, and then strikes off
| | |east again to J. Migin. Ground is
| | |nearly flat and clay very heavy,
| | |bush thick except at the 31st mile
| | |where there is a slight rise and
| | |open ground. Number of giraffe
| | |along the road.
| | |
_J. Migin_ | 14 | 37 |J. Migin is a small rocky hill. At
| | |its northern end is a water hole
| | |in the rocks, which seldom is
| | |emptied, but which does not appear
| | |to be fed by a spring, so should
| | |not be depended on. There are said
| | |to be other water holes on the
| | |hills.
| | |
| | |No water from this to Abu Ramla
| | |except after rain. Khor Madar,
| | |which flows to Khor Zagoli,
| | |crossed first branch at 44th mile,
| | |and second ½ mile further on. Road
J. Abu Ramla | 17 | 54 |passes 1 mile south of J. Withwith
| | |and strikes the Abu Ramla mountain
| | |half-way along its west side,
| | |crossing the large dry Khor Aluk a
| | |mile before. Road then turns north
| | |and skirts round the northern foot
| | |of the mountain.
| | |
_Mek’s | 4 | 58 |Mek Adam Wad Dafeir’s Village is
Village_ | | |at the foot of the north-east
| | |corner of the mountain. Several
| | |other small villages are passed
| | |before reaching. Water is obtained
| | |from wells in Khor Ramla, a mile
| | |east of the mountain, quality not
| | |good, but 100 animals were easily
| | |kept in water.
| | |
| | |Mek is of Fung origin, but the
| | |inhabitants chiefly Gumz.
| | |
| | |From Abu Ramla, the trade road to
| | |Dunkur passes through Abu Mendi my
| | |party left the main track however
| | |at the first point where Dinder is
| | |met, and after that no well
| | |defined track was found till a
| | |couple miles before the Khor
| | |Adabiba.
| | |
| | |Leaving Abu Ramla, road strikes
| | |almost due east. The soil is much
_Khor Ramla_ | 1 | 59 |more sandy, and even in wet
| | |weather fairly good going. Bush
| | |generally very thick, principally
| | |low trees.
| | |
_Khor | 9 | 68 |Large pool in Khor Babeheir; a
Babeheir_ | | |khor about 10 yards wide, rising
| | |in the Bongo Hills and flowing to
_J. Abu Nesag_| 1½ | 69½ |the Dinder. Road skirts north of
| | |J. Abu Nesag, a low rocky hill.
| | |Road stony, and several small dry
| | |khors to cross.
| | |
_Khor Abujar_ | 5 | 74½ |Khor Abujar, sandy bottom, was in
(Abu Holgar) | | |flood when crossed, but would
| | |probably always contain water in
| | |pools or in wells, 50 yards wide,
| | |banks easy.
| | |
_Khor Ainki_ | 4 | 78½ |Khor Ainki was in flood, only just
| | |fordable, gravelly bed, 50 yards
| | |wide; water always obtainable.
| | |Good camping ground, east bank.
| | |Just east of the khor there is a
| | |slight gravelly rise, but bush
| | |still very thick; no view
| | |obtainable. Road turns north-east
| | |to the Dinder.
| | |
_Khor | 5½ | 84 |Khor Barageili. Fair camping
Barageili_ | | |ground; water in pools.
| | |
_Dinder R._ | 1½ | 85½ |Dinder is reached at the foot of
| | |small rocky hill, J. Mogumbi. Main
| | |road to Dunkur appears to skirt
| | |along the bank, but the ground is
| | |very broken and path is almost
| | |invisible. With a view to taking
| | |the most direct road, the
| | |expedition crossed the river—about
| | |100 yards wide, stony, and rocky.
| | |Rapid flow of water, 2 feet deep.
| | |Guides missed the track, which was
| | |said to exist, but of which there
| | |was little or no sign, and when
| | |the Dinder was met again it was
| | |above the ford the guides had been
| | |making for. River was followed to
| | |the mouth of the Khor Abu Gemmeiz,
| | |where it was just fordable. Bush
| | |traversed was very thick;
| | |quantities of water buck, roan
| | |antelope, and other game.
| | |
_Dinder_ and | 14 | 99½ |River forded just above the
Khor | | |junction—100 yards wide. River in
| | |partial flood, 3 feet deep.
| | |Skirted along left bank of Dinder
| | |along a disused track.
| | |
Khor Damu | 5½ | 105 |Khor Damu, 20 yards wide, rocky
| | |with steep banks. Left river and
1st Terrace | 2 | 107 |reached 1st Terrace which marked
| | |the beginning of the foot hills.
| | |Path came in from south apparently
| | |from Abu Mendi.
| | |
_Khor Adabiba_| 1½ | 108½ |Khor Adabiba, small khor with
| | |large pools; water always found.
| | |
_Dunkur_ | 9½ | 118 |The road touches the Dinder at
(Sheikh | | |55th mile, and then turns towards
Nasser’s) | | |the chief village of the Dunkur
| | |district, which lies in undulating
| | |ground about 2½ miles south of the
| | |Dinder. There is a considerable
| | |amount of cotton grown, and
| | |tribute to Kwara is paid in
| | |cotton. The natives are of a mixed
| | |Hamag and Gumz stock. Many of them
| | |can speak Amharic as well as
| | |Arabic. A few Abyssinians are
| | |generally to be found here.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
131.—DUNKUR TO GALLABAT.
BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN, JUNE, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Dunkur | — | — |
| | |
_Dinder_ | 2½ | 2½ |About 100 yards wide, 3 feet deep;
| | |stream 3 miles an hour (but this
| | |was after rain). Banks easy, bed
| | |stony; a good deal of limestone in
| | |the river bed.
| | |
_Khor Ajban_ | 3½ | 6 |Country on north bank fairly open.
| | |Pool of good water in Khor Ajban.
| | |
_Sheikh | 1½ | 7½ |Sheikh Hassan’s Village small, and
Hassan’s_ | | |many of inhabitants have moved to
| | |Gallabat. At the first village, ½
| | |mile beyond Khor Ajban, road
| | |branches east to Kwara.
| | |
Dardakara | 6½ | 14 |Road stony, and crosses a number
| | |of khors—some dry, but most with
| | |good pools—before reaching the
| | |practically deserted village of
| | |Dardakara.
| | |
Adzko | 1 | 15 |Adzko also deserted.
| | |
_Khor Adzko_ | 1½ | 16½ |Large pool of good water in khor:
| | |road, very rough, skirting north
| | |side of J. Wadrabah.
| | |
| | |Site of old Dunkur village in
| | |hills to east of road.
| | |
_Khor Gelagu_ | 4 | 20½ |Village of Gelagu, on south side
| | |of khor, only contains 3 or 4
| | |families. Khor is 20 yards wide;
| | |unlimited water supply, though
| | |little stream is apparent.
| | |
| | |From Gelagu there is a road round
| | |the Umzenidi hill, but the more
| | |direct road is over the pass N.E.
| | |of the village—this is stony but
| | |fairly easy.
| | |
El Gulut | 6½ | 27 |El Gulut is a considerable Kunjara
(_Khor Afar_) | | |village on the Khor Afar (a good
| | |sized khor with water in pools).
| | |From Gulut there is a road to
| | |Kwara. A good deal of cotton is
| | |grown in neighbourhood. There is a
| | |direct route from El Gulut to the
| | |Khor Dibaba, near J. Bayisa, but a
| | |more easterly route through
Magumbal | 5 | 32 |Magumbal (a deserted village)
| | |avoids the cotton soil.
| | |
_Khor Dibaba_ | 6½ | 38½ |Khor Dibaba, 30 yards wide with
| | |large pools, is crossed about 1
| | |mile west of J. Bayisa. A very
| | |large wild fig tree at the
| | |crossing.
| | |
_Seraf | 9½ | 48 |Up to this point water is
Ardeiba_ | | |plentiful, but none is met with
| | |crossing the watershed between
| | |Rahad and Dinder. Road is well
| | |marked and good. Very little water
| | |in the Seraf Ardeiba. Road
| | |skirting this khor is rough.
| | |
_Rahad R._ | 5 | 53 |Rahad about 50 yards wide, very
| | |slight flow of water between large
| | |pools. Bed stony. Many crocodiles
| | |in pools. Good camping grounds
| | |either bank.
| | |
Khor Andeiogo | 4 | 57 |On north bank of Rahad there is
| | |cotton soil, trees not so thick
| | |but more grass. Khor Andeiogo
| | |would generally be dry but there
| | |is a small pool east of the road.
| | |J. Dagarish, a low wooded hill,
| | |lies on the road at 59th mile.
Khor Tair | 6½ | 63½ |Khor Teir is a large dry khor.
| | |
| | |No water obtainable.
| | |
| | |Shortly after crossing Khor Teir,
| | |ascent of the escarp, extending
| | |from J. Madbura to J. Belula, and
| | |forming the watershed between
| | |Rahad and Atbara, begins.
| | |
| | |The ascent of the lower spurs of
| | |J. Belula is pretty steep.
| | |
New Shangal | 9½ | 73 |New Shangal is on the watershed
| | |and has only recently been built.
| | |
_Shangal_ | 1½ | 74½ |Shangal Khor is the first place
| | |after passing the Rahad that water
| | |can be relied on.
| | |
Gallabat | 4½ | 79 |On the top of the escarp,
| | |cultivation begins and extends at
| | |intervals to Gedaref.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
132.—FAZOGLI TO KIRIN.
BY LIEUTENANT JACKSON, R.E., JANUARY, 1900.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Fazogli | — | — |Follow Kukuru road for ½ mile,
| | |then keep to right and follow road
| | |leading about N.N.W. in the
| | |direction of Famaka. Gradual
| | |ascent to crest of ridge forming
| | |watershed parallel to Fazogli
| | |ridge, along which road runs.
| | |Numerous small khors run down on
| | |either side to join the river on
| | |the N., or the K. Akluli on the S.
| | |
| | |Some tukls forming part of the
| | |village of Fazogli.
| | |
Khor Mogo | ¼ | 1¼ |Road descends abruptly and crosses
| | |the Khor Mogo, and shortly
Khor Kulili | ¼ | 1½ |afterwards the Khor Kulili. Both
| | |these khors about 15 feet wide
| | |with steep rocky banks.
| | |
| | |Road now rises and crosses the
| | |outlying spurs of J. Fazogli.
| | |Extremely rough going and ground
| | |covered with large boulders and
| | |rocks. River only about 200 yards
| | |off in places, with Famaka plainly
| | |visible on opposite bank. Left
| | |bank of river here consists of
| | |perpendicular rock from 10 to 30
| | |feet high.
| | |
(Forked Roads)| 1½ | 3 |Road continues extremely hilly and
| | |difficult until third mile, where
| | |road divides, that on the right
| | |leading to Deshalu and Abu
| | |Shaneina.
| | |
| | |The road now takes a S.W.
| | |direction and descends gradually
| | |into a flat bush. Road good, and
| | |level except where it crosses
| | |khors.
| | |
Khor Annis | ¾ | 3¾ |Fifteen yards broad, high banks.
Sanganni | | |On the further side cultivation
| | |begins and continues with a few
| | |intervals of bush the whole way to
| | |Masarkum. Dura is the chief
| | |product and is of all three kinds.
| | |The crop appears to be a very fine
| | |one.
| | |
Ainyet (not | 1¼ | 5 |Road on right leading to Ainyet
visited) | | |(not visited). Said to be a large
| | |village.
| | |
Khor (?) | 1 | 6 |Small khor, 5 yards wide, low
| | |banks.
| | |
| | |For the next mile the cultivation
| | |appears to be particularly good
| | |and the bush begins and continues
| | |almost without interruption until
Ragreig | 3¾ | 9¾ |within ½ mile of Ragreig—small
Village | | |village—scattered tukls.
| | |
Khor (?) | ¼ | 10 |Much cultivation. Small khor with
| | |sandy bottom. Road follows bed for
| | |250 yards.
| | |
Ragreig | 1½ | 11½ |Straggling village on low ridge
Village | | |running N. and S., at present
| | |uninhabited, Tukls in a bad state
| | |of repair, and the whole place
| | |overgrown with grass.
| | |
Abu Gara | ¾ | 12¼ |Compact and well kept. The
| | |residence of the brother of the
| | |Mek of Fazogli.
| | |
Khor Tumat | ½ | 12¾ |Quarter mile further on through
| | |the dura fields the Khor Tumat is
| | |reached. About 200 or 300 yards
| | |broad here. Very shallow level
| | |bed, sandy. Road goes straight on,
| | |crossing it diagonally to where it
| | |is joined by the Khor Masarkum.
| | |Some pools of very dirty stagnant
_Khor | ¼ | 13 |water here. Better water to be
Masarkum_ | | |obtained about ¼ mile up the Khor
| | |Masarkum from the holes dug in the
| | |bed of the khor by the inhabitants
| | |of this place. The water also is
| | |very bad however and full of mud.
| | |
_Masarkum | ¼ | 13¼ |A fair sized village, surrounded
(Sheikh | | |by dura fields. Rest house. Sheep,
Bikori)_ | | |eggs, and milk (cows) readily
| | |obtained. There is (1900) only one
| | |cow however in the town, the
| | |remainder having been looted by
| | |Dervishes.
| | |
| | |Leaving Masarkum the road runs
| | |south-west along a ridge or
| | |plateau on the left bank of the
| | |Khor Masarkum. The ground on this
| | |side of the khor is much smoother,
| | |and there is little thorn as far
| | |as J. Burgan. On the opposite side
| | |the bush appears to be thick.
| | |There is a quantity of
| | |cultivation; dura grown to a great
| | |height and producing fine ears.
| | |All soil appears good. Several
| | |villages are visible on the north
| | |side of the road. All go by the
| | |name of Ragreig which is probably
| | |the word for the class of slaves
| | |or serfs that inhabit them. Road
| | |very good.
| | |
J. Burgan | 4¾ | 18 |A low hill south of road marks the
| | |limit of cultivation, and from
| | |this the bush is thicker, though
| | |there is little thorn, chiefly low
| | |large leaved trees, like young
| | |oaks, and thin grass.
| | |
_Khor | 1¼ | 19¼ |Khor Masarkum is crossed four
Masarkum_ (1st| | |times. It is here known as Khor
crossing) | | |Timsah. At the first crossing
| | |water still in natural pools, and
_3rd crossing_| 2¼ | 21½ |at third crossing obtainable by
| | |digging. It is about 20 feet wide,
| | |with sandy bottom, and vertical
| | |banks 12 feet high. Probably
| | |unfordable in flood.
| | |
| | |After fourth crossing a dry and
| | |waterless country is entered.
| | |Hardly any khors, and these
| | |extremely small. One patch of
| | |cultivation surrounded by a zeriba
| | |about ½ mile beyond last crossing.
| | |Otherwise thin bush and grass.
| | |Road good on the whole, but there
| | |is a good deal of loose stone.
| | |
J. Farfira | 4 | 25½ |Road runs along foot of this jebel
(Pass) | | |for some distance, and then
| | |crosses it by a pass about 200
| | |feet high. Ascent and descent
| | |rough and stony, but not very
| | |difficult for donkeys. Rest house
| | |here.
| | |
| | |Road now keeps close to the foot
| | |of J. Farfira, and keeping its
| | |original direction, leaves J.
| | |Gamella on the right.
| | |
| | |South of J. Gamella there are more
| | |traces of water, and the khors
| | |become more frequent and larger.
| | |Country undulating.
| | |
_Khor El | 8¾ | 34¼ |Khor with hard shingle bed about
Hassan_ | | |30 yards broad. High steep banks.
| | |Rest house here. Water good and
| | |plentiful, but only by digging.
| | |Tributary of the Khor Tumat
| | |flowing northwards.
| | |
| | |After crossing khor, country again
| | |flat and waterless, and covered
| | |with thin bush and grass.
| | |
J. Gami | 3½ | 37¾ |Road skirts northern spur and then
| | |runs in a south easterly direction
| | |towards centre of J. Ragreig.
| | |Ground now becomes uneven and much
| | |intersected by small khors flowing
| | |from the neighbouring hills to
| | |join Khor Shikatar. This khor
| | |rises in J. Ragreig and is at this
| | |point about 10 yards broad. Rocks
| | |and gravel in bed. Low banks.
| | |
| | |The hills comprising J. Ragreig
| | |form a horseshoe, up the central
| | |valley between the horns of which
| | |the road runs. After crossing the
| | |Khor Shikatar for the first time,
| | |the road gradually ascends a spur
| | |running down from the main or
| | |western ridge of J. Ragreig. About
| | |¼ mile further on it gradually
| | |returns to the valley, and
| | |crossing the Khor Shikatar it
| | |rises to the pass between the main
| | |peak of Ragreig and the conical
| | |peak immediately east of it.
| | |
| | |Road follows course of Khor
| | |Shikatar roughly. Ascent nowhere
| | |very steep, but rough and stony.
| | |Thick bush and trees in the
| | |valley.
| | |
J. Ragreig | 4½ | 42¼ |The pass over which the road runs
| | |is roughly 250 feet high. Nothing
| | |can be seen to the north without
| | |ascending one of the two peaks on
| | |either side, owing to trees; to
| | |the south a good view of the
| | |country can be seen, especially J.
| | |Keili, distant about 7 miles. This
| | |pass forms the boundary between
| | |Fazogli and Keili. Guides state
| | |that ridge west of road belonged
| | |to Fazogli, and that east of road
| | |to Keili. Jebel was originally
| | |inhabited, but is now deserted.
| | |Inhabitants have gone, some to
| | |Fazogli, some to Keili, forming
| | |the various Ragreig villages which
| | |are scattered about. Descent from
| | |pass on south side much steeper
| | |than ascent on north. Road zigzags
| | |at first, and then runs straight
| | |down, passing between two small
| | |jebels. Very rough and stony.
| | |Jebel on right inhabited by
| | |Ragreig people, no name
| | |obtainable.
| | |
| | |Country now very level again with
| | |slope downwards towards J. Keili.
| | |Thin bush and grass. Road good.
| | |
Khor Magansor | 2½ | 44¾ |Thirty yards wide. Rocky bed. High
| | |banks. No water at present.
| | |
_Khor Ofat_ | ½ | 45¼ |Twenty yards wide. Bed here full
| | |of rocks. Water plentiful. Pools
| | |still remaining, but water
| | |stagnant, and it is necessary to
| | |dig to obtain good water (Jan.
| | |1900).
| | |
| ½ | 45¾ |Cultivation now begins opposite
| | |northern extremity of J. Keili,
| | |but only in patches, which are
| | |enclosed in thorn zaribas. Chiefly
| | |dura.
| | |
| | |Road runs through centre of level
| | |ground lying between J. Keili on
| | |the right and Jebels Anguba and
| | |Fashola on the left.
| | |
| 1½ | 47¼ |Cultivation becomes continuous,
| | |extending to foot of jebels on
| | |either side of road. Large trees
| | |scattered about, especially near
_Keili_ (camp | 1 | 48¼ |jebels. Mek’s house lies at the
under J. | | |foot of J. Keili, opposite J.
Fashola) | | |Fashola.
| | |
| | |There is no regular village, as
| | |the tukls are scattered round at
| | |the foot of the hills. All the
| | |centre part of the valley is more
| | |or less under water during the
| | |rains.
| | |
| | |Rest house here. Supplies of all
| | |kinds except vegetables and fruit
| | |are plentiful. I counted one herd
| | |of 20 fine cows on first entering
| | |valley. Natives will take Egyptian
| | |money, but seem to prefer empty
| | |bottles or necklaces, soap would
| | |probably go well. Donkeys are
| | |scarce, and it is difficult to
| | |hire or buy.
| | |
| | |Road on leaving valley skirts J.
| | |Fashola closely, and then heads
| | |nearly due south for J. Kamye.
| | |
| | |Towards south and west there is a
| | |stretch of apparently unbroken
| | |flat bush to the horizon.
| | |Cultivation ceases almost
| | |directly.
| | |
Khor Gulbis | 1½ | 49¾ |Ten yards wide, said to flow into
| | |Blue Nile near Abu Shaneina.
| | |
| | |At 2 miles from Keili there is a
| | |knoll on some high ground, with a
| | |large and prominent tree, which
| | |forms a good landmark when
| | |approaching from the north.
| | |
J. Kamye | — | — |A low lying range of round-topped
| | |hills. No rock showing, grass
| | |right up to summit. Road passes
| | |through outlying spurs and knolls
| | |of this jebel on the western side.
| | |Come cultivation on northern
| | |slopes, and a great deal (chiefly
| | |dura) on the south-west.
| | |
| | |Leaving J. Kange on right, road
| | |passes through some low ground
Khor Dunga | 4 | 53¾ |covered with bamboo, probably
| | |swampy in rainy season, crossing
| | |Khor Dunga, 10 yards wide.
| | |
| | |Road now crosses a succession of
| | |small khors, all running west to
| | |join the Khor Timsah. Low ridges
| | |between khors.
| | |
Khor Umburri | 3¾ | 57 |Ten yards wide, steep banks, sandy
| | |bed, bush becomes thicker beyond
| | |this khor.
| | |
Khor Ahemir | 1¾ | 58¾ |Five yards wide, low banks where
| | |road crosses; joins Khor Timsah
| | |about ¾ mile further west.
| | |
_Khor Timsah_ | ¼ | 59 |Twenty yards wide, very rocky bed,
| | |steep banks; flows about due west
| | |where crossed by road, but turns
| | |north about ¼ mile further down
| | |stream. Probably joins Khor
| | |Gulbis.
| | |
| | |One large and deep pool of water
| | |at present, where road crosses,
| | |supply considerable, and fish can
| | |be caught in it; very muddy water,
| | |but appears to be good.
| | |
| | |Road becomes more level now, and
| | |fewer small khors to cross.
| | |
J (?) | 2¼ | 61¼ |Low hills, thickly covered with
| | |grass and bush.
| | |
| | |Road runs up a central spur.
| | |Ascent gradual and road fairly
| | |good. Descent on north side also
| | |along spur, but steeper; road not
| | |so good, and covered with loose
| | |stones.
| | |
Khor Gummi | 2¾ | 64 |Twelve yards wide; stones in bed.
| | |
Khor Mingil | ½ | 64½ |A small shall khor. Hills (J.
| | |Mingil) now begin on either side.
| | |Road good, no steep gradients.
| | |Bush all over the hills, very
| | |thick in the valleys, but thinner,
| | |and long grass on top.
| | |
J. Kurmuk | 3¾ | 68¼ |Gradual descent to foot of J.
| | |Kurmuk. Tukls scattered round
| | |jebel, but probably not very many
| | |inhabitants.
| | |
| | |Latter all fled at our approach,
| | |and very little information could
| | |be obtained. No water near road,
| | |but a little is said to be
| | |procurable further round jebel.
| | |Apparently nothing for sale.
| | |
| | |Road to Dul now turns off in a
| | |more easterly direction, and takes
| | |a straight course towards the
| | |jebel, which is plainly visible.
| | |Country quite flat and shallow
| | |until Khor El Dahab is reached.
| | |Bush thick. Probably wet and boggy
| | |during rains.
| | |
Khor Wirta | ½ | 68¾ |Five yards wide, sandy bed. Just
| | |after this khor a road branches
| | |off to right, which, according to
| | |the guides, is used as an
| | |alternative road to Dul in wet
| | |weather, it rejoins the main road
| | |further on.
| | |
_Khor el | 3½ | 72¼ |Twenty yards wide, banks steep,
Dahab_ | | |about 20 feet high, sandy bed.
| | |Winds very much in and out amongst
| | |these bends for some distance
| | |before actually crossing it. Good
| | |water obtainable here at present,
| | |also at a place about 200 yards
| | |before that, at which the road
| | |crosses khor. Gold found here
| | |about ¼ mile before crossing khor;
| | |there are a number of circular
| | |shaft about 3 feet in diameter,
| | |and some about as much as 20 feet
| | |deep, from which the earth is
| | |taken. This is the first important
| | |khor in the basin of the White
| | |Nile.
| | |
Khor Goshindo | 2¾ | 75 |Small khor with steep banks.
| | |
| | |Road now becomes hilly, and
| | |follows edge of high ground, the
| | |ground on the left falling away
| | |rapidly to khor in valley below.
| | |
Dul | 2¼ | 77¼ |No actual town, but a number of
| | |tukls scattered about outlying
| | |spurs of Dul, also on north side
| | |of valley, and khor, which runs
| | |down in a north-westerly direction
| | |from the hills.
| | |
| | |The natives depend entirely upon
| | |the gold which they find, and
| | |import all supplies from Gomasha.
| | |Nothing seems to be grown in this
| | |country. They are an idle and very
| | |unintelligent people, and are
| | |unwilling to be of any assistance.
| | |They seem to be genuinely afraid
| | |of the Abyssinians. Water
| | |plentiful and fairly good obtained
| | |in khor.
| | |
| | |Road now takes a southerly
| | |direction and skirts the eastern
| | |slopes of J. Dul, winding in and
| | |out amongst its spurs. Road rough
| | |in places and stony, but on the
| | |whole good. Tukls on all the high
| | |ground.
| | |
Khor Biberis | 1½ | 78¾ |Small khor with rocky bed.
| | |
Khor Adunga | ½ | 79¼ |Small shallow khor. Gold pits
| | |along banks.
| | |
Arakuba | ¼ | 79½ |A collection of a few tukls on the
| | |main jebel.
| | |
Khor Udanduk | 1¼ | 80¾ |Actual channel 5 yards wide, it
| | |has low banks, and evidently
| | |overflows its banks. Road crosses
| | |it just beyond the south-western
| | |spur of J. Dul, and heads direct
| | |for J. Mindon.
| | |
Khor Gensogala| ¼ | 81 |Five yards wide, sandy bed.
| | |
(Forked roads)| ¼ | 81¼ |Road divides; that on right going
| | |to Kirin _viâ_ Kumfo, and Jebels
| | |Beldoesu and Fana Gamenta; that on
| | |the left _viâ_ Goha, Asosa, and
| | |Fadasi.
| | |
| | |The former is a direct road, and
| | |could easily be made fairly good
| | |by clearing bamboo and levelling.
| | |It is very little used, however,
| | |and there are no villages along
| | |it. Water is somewhat scarce. The
| | |latter, as far as we went, is a
| | |very bad hilly road; but a great
| | |trade route and very much used.
| | |Probably good when once the
| | |watershed is crossed.
| | |
| — | 81¼ |Take right hand road at fork (left
| | |to Gomasha). Road crosses a number
| | |of small khors. Ground between
| | |low-lying, and would probably be
| | |mostly under water during rains. A
| | |great deal of bamboo. Road
| | |difficult to find.
| | |
_Khor Ageheni_| ¾ | 82 |Broad shallow khor with low banks
| | |and sandy bed. Road followed by us
| | |did not cross khor at this point,
| | |but took us some distance more to
| | |the west before doing so. We were
| | |without guides, however, and the
| | |road is difficult to follow.
| | |Probably we made an unnecessary
| | |detour. Plenty of water just below
| | |the surface. Natives were washing
| | |gold just below where we crossed;
| 1¼ | 83¼ |their tukls are scattered all
| | |about here.
| | |
J. Kumfo | 1¾ | 85 |Small jebels with tukls on them; a
| | |little cultivation; road passes
| | |west of them.
| | |
Khor (?) | 1 | 86 |Road passes between jebels,
| | |crossing small khor, very rough
| | |and rocky, and sides of khor
| | |steep. Road runs now along eastern
| | |slopes of hills. Very rough and
| | |covered with bamboo, which brings
| | |rate of progress of caravan down
| | |to about 2 miles per hour. From
| | |here to the camp by the small khor
| | |S. of Khor Delligi.
| | |
Khor Belligi | 1¼ | 87¼ |Twenty five yards broad, very
| | |shallow, sandy bed. No water.
| | |
_Khor_ (?) | 1 | 88¼ |Small khor with very rocky bed and
| | |difficult crossing for Hamla. Two
| | |large pools of very good water
| | |(Jan. 1900).
| | |
| | |Road continues in a south-easterly
| | |direction. Bush on both sides, but
| | |a small patch of cultivation on
| | |the right at one place.
| | |
(Forked roads)| 1 | 89¼ |Road divides; take right hand
| | |branch, leading straight towards
| | |J. Beldoesu.
| | |
| 1 | 90¼ |Two small shallow khors, 15 yards
| | |wide, sandy.
| | |
_Khor_ (?) | 1¼ | 91½ |Khor 20 yards wide, a little water
| | |on digging.
| | |
J. Beldoesu | — | — |Road now keeps along western
| | |slopes of J. Beldoesu. Numerous
| | |small deep khors to cross, and
| | |ground exceedingly rough and
| | |difficult for Hamla. On leaving J.
| | |Beldoesu road improves and runs up
| | |and across valley between J.
| | |Fanaoge and J. Fanagamenta.
| | |
_K. Zalan_ | 5¼ | 96¾ |A large quantity of excellent
| | |water in pools in the rock. Best
| | |place for Hamla to cross is by a
| | |sandbank, just above the rock.
| | |
| | |Beyond Khor Zalan the road is
| | |fairly good, but progress of Hamla
| | |is very much hampered by the
| | |bamboo.
| | |
(Pass) | 6¼ | 103 |Road gradually ascends, and
| | |finally runs over a low and easy
| | |pass between J. Fanaoge and J.
| | |Fanagamenta. Pass about 200 feet
| | |high. Descent on south side along
| | |eastern slopes of valley. Khors
| | |are numerous and very deep, but no
| | |water. Road extremely rough and
| | |hilly.
| | |
_Khor Ahrakad_| 5¼ | 108¼ |Small khor with stony bed. A
| | |little water on digging, but
| | |supply salty and very limited.
| | |This khor is not actually crossed
| | |by the road at the point where
| | |best water is found, but lies a
| | |short distance to the east.
| | |
J. Taza | — | — |A fair sized jebel with two peaks
| | |and extremely steep sides. Road
| | |passes west of it.
| | |
Khor Lashe | ¾ | 109 |Small khor with steep banks.
| | |
| ¾ | 109¾ |Road forks; keep to right.
| | |
Khor Turus(or | ½ | 110¼ |Broad khor with stony bed.
Yander) | | |
| | |
J. Belsuri | — | — |Road now passes between J. Belsuri
| | |on left and J. Hode on right.
| | |Rather hilly and rough.
| | |
J. Hode | — | — |These hills are inhabited, and
| | |there is some cultivation.
| | |
| 1¼ | 111½ |Forked roads in open space; keep
| | |to left.
| | |
| | |In the valley, through which road
| | |now runs, there is a great deal of
| | |cultivation. Flat bush as far as
| | |the eye can reach towards south
| | |and south-west.
| | |
_Khor Gaduk_ | 3 | 114½ |Small khor with steep banks, a
| | |little muddy water still left
| | |above ground (Jan. 1900).
| | |
Agani | 1½ | 116 |A few tukls; a considerable
| | |quantity of cultivation, chiefly
| | |dura.
| | |
(Forked roads)| 1 | 117 |Forked roads; keep to right.
| | |
(Forked roads)| 1½ | 118½ |Forked roads—keep to left.
| | |
Khor (?) | ¼ | 118¾ |Small khor 10 yards wide—south
| | |bank steep.
| | |
Ashuli | ¼ | 119 |A few tukls surrounded by
| | |cultivation. Road turns to left
| | |and then bears round to right, and
| | |skirts the southern slopes of J.
J. Gushu | — | — |Gushu; rough in places, but good
| | |on the whole.
| | |
_Khor Shugalu_| ¾ | 119¾ |Large khor with high steep banks,
(Khor Befar) | | |sandy bed. Good water plentiful;
| | |much cultivation along banks,
| | |including onions, water-melons,
| | |&c.
| | |
| | |After crossing khor, ground rather
| | |uneven and grass and bush rather
| | |thick, until you get close to J.
| | |Kirin. Open ground along its base.
| | |
_Kirin_ | 1½ | 121¼ |Tukls scattered all round the
(Sheikh | | |jebel, but most of the big men
Hamed’s House)| | |seem to live close to this place.
| | |
| | |Open ground at base of hill, and
| | |very good place for camp at
| | |present, but might be wet during
| | |rainy season. Water taken from
| | |wells in sand about ¼ mile away,
| | |rather muddy, and of a thick white
| | |colour like milk. Supply scanty at
| | |present, and our party finally
| | |took their water from Khor
| | |Shugalu. Inhabitants most
| | |friendly. Sheep, pigs, chickens,
| | |eggs, and dura in overwhelming
| | |quantities, were sent as presents.
| | |Onions and milk (goats) can be
| | |obtained, but supply is limited.
| | |
| | |People are ready to sell for gold
| | |(native, in rings), beads, soap,
| | |old bottles, tins, &c. Beads (blue
| | |or red) seem to be the chief thing
| | |required. Salt is also good. We
| | |got rid of a few fasses, but iron
| | |does not seem to be in request.
| | |Spear heads are no good. Cloth of
| | |the most brilliant colours
| | |possible would probably also go
| | |well. Sheikh Hamed has large
| | |stores of dura in tukls on the
| | |hill, and sold it to us at 3 gold
| | |rings (each worth about 45
| | |piastres) the ardeb. There is a
| | |small quantity of semsem (5 rings
| | |the ardeb) and lubia.
| | |
| | |From Kirin the road runs straight
| | |on nearly due south. Some bad
| | |rocky places, until the spurs of
| | |the mountain are all left behind,
| | |the road then level and fairly
| | |good, passing through bush of
| | |varying thickness, but with very
| | |little thorn in it, and patches of
| | |bamboo along the banks of the
| | |khors.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
133.—KIRIN TO KODOK.
BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN, APRIL, 1903.
A mixed Hamla—mules, donkeys and camels—was taken from Kirin to
Kodok, April, 1903.
No rain had fallen, but more water was found in the neighbouring
country than in previous years, so that conditions of water may be
assumed normal for middle of dry season, but more favourable than
usual for extreme end of dry season.
There was no recognised track, and no guides could be obtained from
Kirin, nor would it have been possible to obtain Dinka guides to make
the journey in the reverse direction.
The route followed is not necessarily the best, as probably deflections
were made by guides owing to inter-village fighting or for other
reasons.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Kirin | — | — |From Kirin there are several
| | |tracks leading west to the farm
| | |village belonging to Ahmed Wad
| | |Yimr.
| | |
_Khor Yabus_ | 13 | 13 |Water is obtainable at several
at junction | | |places, _vide_ Map.
with Khor | | |
Serekoli | | |
| | |
| | |The Khor Yabus known to the Gallas
| | |as Ayaya, and to the Khomas as
| | |Kizi, is a strong flowing stream
| | |40 feet wide and 1 foot deep,
| | |rocky bottom and wooded banks.
| | |Soil in neighbourhood mostly sandy
| | |and firm. Stream full of fish,
| | |which many Kirin people come to
| | |catch and dry. Fishing places do
| | |not extend more than 20 miles west
| | |of Kirin.
| | |
| | |As I had been told the Khor Yabus
| | |took a sharp bend S. after
| | |clearing the hills I chose the
| | |left bank, so as to avoid missing
| | |the turn. The ground near the khor
| | |was stony and broken by side
| | |khors, so marched well clear of
| | |stream. Ground firm and bush not
| | |thick enough to be an obstacle. If
| | |grass had not been burnt going
| | |would have been difficult.
| | |
_Khor Mia_ | 13 | 26 |Went to Yabus for water at its
| | |junction with a large khor
| | |(probably Khor Mia), coming from
| | |the Khoma mountains. The character
| | |of the Yabus had changed, and now
| | |ran over a level sandy bed, water
| | |6 inches deep, banks cotton soil,
| | |marshy and high grass jungle.
| | |Country on either side almost
| | |entirely open, but large trees by
| | |the khor. Country from this point
| | |to the beginning of Burun villages
| | |swarms with game—buffalo and
| | |elephant. Hunting parties from
| | |Kirin, with rifles, constantly
| | |about.
| | |
Khor | 5 | 31 |Kept clear of banks of khor again,
| | |which were swampy and had thick
| | |jungle in places. Country away
| | |from river open and slightly
| | |undulating.
| | |
_J. Belshingi_| 1 | 32 |Cotton soil, but fair going. Khor
and Jebel | | |passes between Jebel Belshingi on
Belatoma | | |N. bank and J. Belatoma on S. A
| | |rocky outlying knoll of latter
| | |close to stream gives a fair
| | |camping ground at its base. A wide
| | |marshy khor comes from the south
| | |just before reaching this knoll.
| | |
| | |The Yabus winds round the south
| | |end of J. Belshingi and spreads
| | |out into two marshy lakes, a small
_Knoll_ | 3 | 35 |rocky knoll forming the extreme
| | |south end of J. Belshingi (though
| | |on opposite side of khor) lying
| | |between the lakes.
| | |
| | |The north bank of Yabus is wooded,
| | |but country to south is open. Bed
| | |of stream winds through wide
| | |marshy belt. Skirting the marsh,
| | |game tracks gave good going.
| | |
Village | 4 | 39 |First Burun village was deserted.
(deserted) (?)| | |Found it had been raided by Kirin
Mago | | |people two months before, and
| | |Sheikh Digga had been killed.
| | |Village had evidently been
| | |occupied since. From this village
| | |found a good track, and, after 3
| | |miles, bush became thick; many dom
| | |palms.
| | |
_N’yunka_ | 4 | 43 |N’yunka, a collection of villages
| | |among dom thickets. No men at
| | |first to be seen, but surprised
| | |some women who shortly induced men
| | |to appear. Latter very frightened
| | |at first. All armed with long
| | |bows, wooden pointed featherless
| | |arrows and generally a spear, and
| | |quite naked.
| | |
| | |A good track ran through wooded
| | |country S. of the Yabus, passing
| | |the villages of Toma, N’dinga,
| | |Bane Bugga, Ote, Onka and the
| | |villages of Sheikh Washa. At these
| | |latter crossed the Yabus, which
_Yabus | 9 | 52 |from this point turns S.W. The
crossing_ | | |Buruns could not give me any clear
| | |account of where it went to, but
| | |thought it discharged into Sobat.
| | |I believe it opens out into a
| | |swampy lake which also receives
| | |the Sonka, and part of the water
| | |from this may make its way to the
| | |Sobat near Nasser and part into
| | |the Khor Adar. When last seen
| | |there was a good flow of water.
| | |The country to S.W. appeared to be
| | |thickly wooded, and I could not
| | |ascertain to what extent it was
| | |inhabited.
| | |
| | |Track continued to be good, and
| | |passed through villages of Kanje
| | |and Loma, almost deserted owing to
| | |distance from Walu to Bangaia.
| | |
_Bangaia_ | 7 | 59 |Hafirs. The village is small and
| | |the hafirs are in a marshy
| | |overflow from a khor ½ mile S.E.
| | |of village. These Burun hafirs are
| | |generally dug in marshy spots, and
| | |sometimes are merely reservoirs,
| | |sometimes really gammams. They are
| | |carefully covered in with sticks,
| | |and grass and water is generally
| | |clean and good. At Bangaia very
| | |good and plentiful.
| | |
_Tuer_ | 3 | 62 |Small village with hafir—several
| | |deserted villages between it and
| | |Bangaia.
| | |
Beio | 5½ | 67½ |Track good, country fairly open.
| | |Small village.
| | |
Hillock | 1 | 68½ |Very small hillock with few huts.
| | |
Kyela | 2½ | 71 |Kyela is a group of several
| | |villages with wide track of
| | |cultivation. Inhabitants gone away
| | |for water.
| | |
| | |After 4 miles track ceases, and
| | |guides took us N.W., avoiding a
| | |piece of badly broken cotton soil.
| | |
_K. Yungen_ | 9 | 80 |Lot of giraffe and ostrich. A
| | |gammam with some very bad water in
| | |Khor Yungen.
| | |
_Nyeda_ | 3 | 83 |Nyeda, a village with 300 to 400
| | |people on Khor Murga (probably the
| | |same as Khor Yungen). Poor water
| | |in gammams in khor. These are 6
| | |feet deep and fill slowly; barely
| | |gave water enough for 50 animals
| | |and 50 men.
| | |
| | |From here a good number of people
| | |know a little Arabic or Dinka. The
| | |Sheikh is Dar El Sagia, and he has
| | |been fighting with the surrounding
| | |villages.
| | |
| | |The whole district is called Dar
| | |El Imam and was under a Sheikh
| | |called Wad Regab Wad Ali. This man
| | |was murdered some four years ago,
| | |and Dar El Sagia claims to be his
| | |successor, but is not recognised
| | |by most of the villages. This is
| | |about the limit of the raiding of
| | |the Beni Shangul people.
| | |
| | |Khor Murga is said to be a branch
| | |of the big khor which formed from
| | |the khors between Jebel Kurmuk and
| | |Jebel Fanagamenta, passes close to
| | |J. Jumjum under the name of Khor
| | |Tumbakh.
| | |
| | |J. Jumjum lies south of J. Mofwa
| | |and is the southern limit of Idris
| | |Wad Regab’s influence at present.
| | |Khor Tumbakh appears to split up
| | |into branches, and one probably
| | |reaches Khor Adar near Rengachuk.
| | |
_Hafirs_ | 4 | 87 |Two good hafirs. Track bad over
| | |broken cotton soil.
| | |
Nyeda (Sh. | 8 | 95 |After passing hafirs track becomes
Tukani) camp | | |very good and goes through a
| | |number of villages whose
| | |inhabitants had gone to water.
| | |About two miles short of camp
| | |entered on a wide stretch of
| | |cultivation, cotton soil.
| | |Scattered villages. No defined
| | |khor, but probably the whole under
| | |water in the rains from overflow
| | |of Khor Tumbakh. There were many
| | |gammams, but water very bad and
| | |muddy.
| | |
_Dinko Wad | 7 | 102 |Bad going over cotton soil. Dinko
Dageig_ | | |Wad Dageig was last Burun village.
| | |It is situated in a grove of dom
| | |palms, dry sandy soil. Water from
| | |gammam 10 feet deep, plentiful and
| | |good. This village is in about 10°
| | |10′ and 30° 10′ E.
| | |
Tibn | 13 | 115 |There is no defined track west of
| | |this, but hunting parties
| | |frequently go to El Tame. Passed
| | |over open country; cotton soil,
| | |rather rough going. Passed the
| | |Debba of Tibn lying ¼ mile to
| | |right just before entering a track
| | |of park land; heglig trees.
| | |
| | |Tibn was the most outlying of the
| | |Dinka villages, but had been
| | |deserted since the beginning of
| | |the Mahdia. Water used to be
| | |stored in hafirs, but now none.
| | |
| | |A second debba was seen about four
| | |miles further W.
| | |
_El Tame_ | 10 | 125 |Heglig trees last for eight miles,
| | |and cotton soil is bad. El Tame is
| | |a marshy lake, or rather two large
| | |pools in a khor, which, however,
| | |does not appear to connect to
| | |anything.
| | |
| | |Water is plentiful, but muddy and
| | |fouled by game. There are no trees
| | |or anything to mark the position
| | |of the water except flocks of
| | |birds. Game very abundant, and
| | |both Buruns and Dinkas come to
| | |hunt. The latter are very much
| | |afraid of the Buruns.
| | |
Khor Adar | 15 | 140 |Kept S.W. for 15 miles. Cotton
| | |soil and fairly good going;
| | |country generally open with a few
| | |clumps of heglig. Struck Khor Adar
| | |at some feriks belonging to Sheikh
| | |Wal Awal at about the point where
| | |Captain Wilson’s reconnaissance
| | |ended. This point is about 40
| | |miles due east of Kodok. The
| | |Dinkas, however, in going to Kodok
| | |always follow the Khor Adar to
| | |Rengachuk and thence across to the
| | |Nile at Mialek, which makes a
| | |journey at least 20 miles longer
Kodok | 60 (?) | 200 |and involves several crossings of
| | (?) |the Khor Adar.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
134.—KHOR BOSUK[43], _viâ_ KHOR EINE TO GOHA.
BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, FEBRUARY, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Camp (Khor | — | — |
Bosuk) | | |
| | |
Cavalry Camp | 12 | 12 |The road runs along the foot of
(Khor Bosuk) | | |the N. slopes of J. Beldoesu; a
| | |new road now made along other side
| | |of valley and along course of
| | |stream which is much better going.
| | |
| | |From Cavalry Camp, where there is
| | |a lot of water (running in khor),
| | |the road goes up a slope up the
| | |Shanendo valley, also called
| | |Fanishuman (name of old village).
| | |The ascent up the valley is easy
| | |at first, but afterwards up steep
| | |slopes with rocks. Water is met
| | |with twice on way up—at one place
| | |a running stream. There is a bad
| | |bit of road just at this stream,
| | |difficult even to make it safe for
| | |horses and mules. For camels the
| | |road would require zigzaging and
| | |grading. There are flat places on
| | |the tops of the spurs where halts
| | |can be made.
| | |
_Khor Eine_ | 7 | 19 |From top of pass the road goes
| | |along the plateau in an easterly
| | |direction till Khor Eine is
| | |reached, where there is a flowing
| | |stream, good shade and grazing,
| | |and camping ground.
| | |
Camp at Goha | 3 | 22 |From Khor Eine good road round
| | |spur leads into Goha, about 2
| | |miles before reaching which road
| | |branches off to Asosa, going in a
| | |southerly direction. The tukls are
| | |on the foot of slope of J. Goha
| | |and also all over the top of the
| | |hill. J. Goha is a series of
| | |broken, rocky hills, and is in
| | |reality a spur projecting from the
| | |higher plateau.
| | |
| | |There is a fair amount of
| | |cultivation in patches in the open
| | |valley. There is a running stream
| | |at foot of Goha Hill on N. side,
| | |which is fed by many tributaries,
| | |most of which contain running
| | |water. There is a good camping
| | |ground across this stream on low
| | |hills facing the lower N. slopes
| | |of J. Goha, water and grazing
| | |plentiful. Supplies of dura
| | |apparently got from Asosa. There
| | |were only about 20 cattle to be
| | |seen, and no sign of any trade
| | |going on or Gallabas about. This
| | |may be due to the disturbed state
| | |of the country and the roads being
| | |closed.
| | |
| | |
| | |(NOTE.—A small party of cavalry
| | |marched along this road at the
| | |rate of 3 to 4 miles per hour.)
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
135.—GOHA, _viâ_ K. BARSU TO BOSUK.
BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, FEBRUARY, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Camp Goha | — | — |Left Camp Goha in a north-westerly
| | |direction—road leads across the
| | |plateau and crosses some khors.
| | |This is a good road and apparently
| | |much used by Gallabas, as their
| | |camping places at intervals on the
| | |khors were passed—where there is
| | |the usual pool or trickling
| | |stream. The road comes to top of
| | |pass marked 4,670 feet. From here
| | |an extensive view is obtained of
| | |Dul, J. Jerok, etc.
| | |
| | |The descent of the pass is steep,
| | |although the road is well defined.
| | |There is only one real good
| | |halting place on a spur before
| | |descending into the Barsu valley.
| | |
_K. Barsu_ | 9 | 14 |The road crosses the khor at a
| | |conspicuous Gemmeiza tree where
| | |there is water in small
| | |quantities. Further on the stream
| | |runs in places and disappears
| | |again. A good camping ground is
| | |reached a 5 hours from camp at
| | |Goha which is used by Gallabas.
| | |
Camp Khor | 8 | 22 |The road leads along the khor,
Bosuk | | |water running at intervals of 45
| | |minutes; from this point the roads
| | |separate to Dul Jerok and towards
| | |Mindok. Taking the last one khor
| | |under J. Agadi is reached—good
| | |grazing and water here, and
| | |vegetables cultivated—from here
| | |camp Bosuk is one hour and half
| | |along the broken ground at foot of
| | |slopes of the Beldoesu valley.
| | |
| | |
| | |(NOTE.—A small party of Cavalry
| | |marched along this route at an
| | |average rate of 2¾ miles per
| | |hour.)
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
136.—CAMP ON KHOR BOSUK[44] TO ASOSA.
BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, MARCH, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
_Camp Khor | — | — |The road runs along the foot of
Bosuk_ | | |the N. slopes of J. Beldoesu. A
| | |new road has now been made along
| | |the other side of valley and along
| | |course of stream, which is much
| | |better going.
| | |
_Cavalry Camp | 12 | 12 |From Cavalry Camp, where there is
(Khor Bosuk)_ | | |a lot of water (running in khor).
| | |The road goes up a slope up the
| | |Shanendo valley, also called
| | |Fanishuman (name of old villages).
| | |The ascent up the valley is easy
| | |at first, afterwards up steep
| | |slopes with rocks. Water is met
| | |with twice on way up, at one place
| | |a running stream. There is a bad
| | |bit of road just at this stream,
| | |difficult even to make it safe for
| | |horses and mules. For camels the
| | |road would require zigzaging and
| | |grading. There are flat places on
| | |the top of the spurs where halts
| | |can be made.
| | |
_Khor Eine_ | 7 | 19 |From top of pass the road goes
| | |along the plateau in an easterly
| | |direction till Khor Eine is
| | |reached, where there is a flowing
| | |stream, good shade, grazing and
| | |camping ground.
| | |
| | |From Khor Eine good road round
| | |spur into Goha. About 2 miles out
| | |on this road Goha-Asosa track
| | |strikes it in a southerly
| | |direction, goes up parallel to N.
| | |slopes of Goha hills, crossing
| | |pass on to top of plateau; water-
| | |course on N. side of road, water
| | |also. Nearly at once cross a khor
| | |on top of plateau with water which
| | |flows down in direction Khor
| | |Zalan. Road rocky in few places,
| | |but on whole good. Good camp at
_Khor Afaferi_| 13 | 32 |Khor Afaferi, 13 miles.
| | |
| | |Good road crosses a marsh near
| | |Abdel Rahman Wad Khojali’s
| | |village, which is passed after 2½
| | |hours’ march. Asosa comes in view
| | |across a wide valley which takes
| | |over 1 hour to get round; a water
| | |course passed. Convenient to water
| | |here before going into Asosa, as
| | |water some distance off village.
| | |
_Asosa_ | 15 | 47 |Asosa is a collection of villages
| | |on a large spur which is part of
| | |the plateau and juts out over a
| | |valley.
| | |
| | |There are three rocky hills, all
| | |with houses on them. People
| | |prosperous and well to do. A
| | |certain amount of cultivation
| | |near, but chief cultivation near a
| | |small hill E. of Asosa. Sheikh
| | |Hamed apparently a very determined
| | |ruler and looks after his people.
| | |There is an Abyssinian post here
| | |of about 15 to 20 men.
| | |
| | |
| | |(NOTE.—A troop of Sudanese regular
| | |cavalry and a party of mounted
| | |irregulars marched by this route
| | |at the rate of 3 miles per hour,
| | |forced marching.)
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
137.—ASOSA TO KHOR BOSUK, _viâ_ KHOR SURGALLA AND KHOR ZALAN.
BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, MARCH, 1904.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Asosa | — | — |Leaving Asosa by road to Goha and
| | |march for an hour along it. Then
| | |branch off W. and drop off plateau
| | |on to a succession of small hills,
| | |with villages, going along crest
| | |of their spurs. A few steep and
_K. Dadeferi_ | 10 | 10 |rocky places in crossing khors—to
| | |Khor Dadeferi—running stream with
| | |village above it, not much room
| | |for camp.
| | |
| | |Ascent out of khor steep to
| | |village; steep ascents and
| | |descents, passing cultivated
| | |clearings and villages (all
| | |Hamed’s).
| | |
_Khor | 8 | 18 |Reach Khor Sirekoli (Surgalla),
Sirekoli_ | | |good running stream, pretty open
(Surgalla) | | |ground here, good camp, grass
| | |plentiful. Road now rises
| | |abruptly.
| | |
| | |Road, after rising abruptly out of
| | |valley over hill, goes W., very
| | |steep and rocky track. Apparently
| | |not been much used lately; passes
_Khor Akori_ | 6 | 24 |over low rocky hills, a constant
| | |up and down, S. of J. Fanoje and
| | |then turns N. along foot of Fanoje
| | |hills, crosses Khor Akori, water
| | |here by digging, good grass.
| | |
_Khor Zalan_ | 6 | 30 |After a mile strike Kirin road,
| | |along this to Khor Zalan; water
| | |plentiful, also grass.
| | |
_Camp Bosuk_ | 6 | 36 |Go along track for 3 miles, then
| | |strike off to W., cross khor with
| | |water into camp.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
138.—GORE TO ABWONG (ON SOBAT).
BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, FEBRUARY TO MARCH, 1904.
NOTE.—The route described in this report, after crossing the Baro
at 52½ miles from Gore, follows the left bank of that river as far
as Itang, thence the right bank to Nasser, thence the left bank of
the Sobat to Abwong. From Gambela, 64½ miles from Gore, the best
track westwards lies along the right bank. There is no difficulty in
travelling by this route during the driest season, _i.e._, February
to May. Practically no supplies can be relied on.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gore | | |Gore is described elsewhere. It is
| | |surrounded by hills, some of which
| | |appear to be of nearly equal
| | |height. Country thickly wooded,
| | |but being cleared for cultivation.
| | |
| 2½ | 2½ |Track from here gets bad, going
| | |through forest and over a khor,
| | |east bank of which is very steep
| | |and difficult.
| | |
| 3½ | 6 |Forest gets very thick and
| | |tangled, roots and fallen trees
| | |lying across track. Hills very
| | |steep.
| | |
| 3 | 9 |Forest gets thinner, and glimpses
| | |of Gore can be had. Villages also
| | |appear in the open clearings. Some
| | |of the rivers hereabouts are
| | |bridged, but the bridges are very
| | |bad and dangerous for animals,
| | |which can in dry season cross by
| | |fording.
| | |
Rest house | 3¼ | 12¼ |House where travellers generally
| | |stop first march out from Gore, or
| | |last march in.
| | |
| 1⅛ | 13⅜ |Rocky river bed to cross. Route
| | |for next 6 miles is hilly and
| | |thickly wooded; several rivers to
| | |cross, mostly with rocky bottoms.
| | |
| 5⅝ | 19 |Beginning of Bure district;
| | |country much more open and thickly
| | |populated and cultivated; track
| | |much less hilly and wider.
| | |
| 5⅞ | 24⅞ |Market place on top of a hill;
| | |market twice a week.
| | |
Ato Melka’s | 4⅝ | 29½ |Track much better here and hills
house | | |not difficult, country cleared of
| | |trees to great extent and much
| | |cultivated.
| | |
| 1 | 30½ |Market place.
| | |
Ato Takallé’s | 5⅞ | 36⅜ |Situated on a hill. River to cross
house | | |just before reaching it. Takallé
| | |is governor of all Bure, and is
| | |charged with guarding the pass at
| | |Goma, which leads up from the Baro
| | |country.
| | |
Guard | 4 | 40⅜ |Guard house on hill (tukls and a
| | |“hosh”). Officer stationed here
| | |with about 30 men to guard the
| | |pass and report all arrivals and
| | |departures to the Ras.
| | |
Goma | 6 | 46⅜ |Rest houses on the top of pass.
| | |Descent for first two miles very
| | |difficult, track winding amongst
| | |boulders and large rocky slabs. It
| | |is necessary to use one’s hands
| | |and knees in getting up some of
| | |the places.
| | |
| 2⅛ | 48½ |Enter forest and cross mountain
| | |torrent, which would probably be
| | |impassable after heavy rains. From
| | |here down to the Baro ford is not
| | |difficult, though tiring, and,
| | |except for one or two bad ravines,
| | |loaded animals can get along
| | |without much difficulty.
| | |
River Baro | 4 | 52½ |Baro Ford spanned by a very
(ford) | | |ricketty wooden bridge, which is
| | |no longer safe. Animals and men
| | |cross river-bed in dry season: 3-4
| | |feet of water. Crossing very
| | |difficult owing to rocky uneven
| | |bottom and strong current, river
| | |here being succession of rapids.
| | |After crossing Baro, track leaves
| | |river and runs round hill, joining
| | |river again about 4 miles further
| | |on, from whence track follows
| | |river more or less closely as far
| | |as
| | |
Gambela | 12 | 64½ |Long scattered district, villages
| | |mostly on R. bank; a few small
| | |villages hidden in the forest on
| | |L. bank, inhabitants of which fled
| | |on appearance of Abyssinians.
| | |Recognised ferry here, two dug-
| | |outs. River, however, fordable for
| | |animals (January 14). Thick forest
| | |both banks. River full of hippos
| | |and crocodiles. Track leaves river
| | |here and runs about a mile inland
| | |as far as
| | |
R. Bonga | 1½ | 66 |10 yards wide, 10 feet banks, and
| | |1 to 2 feet water. Sandy bottom
| | |and passage easy. The regular
| | |track westwards from Gambela is on
| | |R. bank. I, however, followed L.
| | |bank to investigate. Gambela is
| | |called by the Anuaks Egelo. Track
| | |from here very bad, almost
| | |nonexisting, it being necessary to
| | |hew a way through the jungle in
| | |places. Ground very rocky at foot
| | |of small hills.
| | |
River Ichok | 11 | 77 |
| | |
River Wonkai | 1½ | 78½ |
| | |
River Wangd | 1 | 79½ |
Wong | | |
| | |
River Wanten | ¾ | 80¼ |All above dry (February, 1904).
| | |Width from 20 to 50 yards. Sandy
| | |bottoms and steep banks. Must be
| | |quite impassable after heavy
| | |rains, but Anuaks say that they
| | |quickly drain off.
| | |
Ile de | ½ | 80¾ |Series of rapids and small islands
Faidherbe | | |in dry season. Site where steamer
| | |was stranded marked by huge stone
| | |like a tomb-stone, 10 feet high,
| | |on a grass-covered island, which
| | |is submerged at high Nile. Anuaks
| | |and Abyssinians say the Faidherbe
| | |was carried away about three
| | |months after being left there, in
| | |three pieces, by Joti’s and
| | |Tesemma’s men, 200 to 300 men
| | |carrying a section on a tree
| | |trunk. Traces of broad track
| | |cleared for this purpose on river
| | |bank noticeable now. Small village
| | |right, track on left very bad,
| | |runs through long grass and forest
| | |to beginning of
| | |
Finkio | 7¾ | 88½ |Finkio; natives pronounce it
(Penkio) (site| | |Finkio, not Penkio. Villages,
of Trading | | |_i.e._, clusters of huts or
Station) | | |homesteads all along river here
| | |onwards. Names of villages marked
| | |on map are misleading, as the name
| | |applies to a district perhaps 10
| | |miles long. A shorter track exists
| | |from near Ogara to Itang, but I
| | |could not take it, as it was past
| | |mid-day, and I had to halt on
Nyokwar | 14½ | 103 |water. Track on to Itang from
| | |Nyokwar very bad, as it follows
| | |all bends of river except in one
| | |place, and ground is a succession
| | |of small deep gullies that are
| | |impassable for transport unless
| | |ramped, or marched round.
| | |
Ideni | 14½ | 117½ |Beginning of district of Ideni R.
| | |and Itang L.
| | |
Itang | 3 | 120½ |Eastern boundary of Itang Enclave.
| | |Sheikh Gelo, brother-in-law of
| | |Sheikh Nagor, of Ideni. Gelo is
| | |much feared by Anuaks, who
| | |approach his presence on all
| | |fours. Baro fordable here
| | |(February), 2 to 3 feet deep. Fine
| | |Gemmeiza trees at Itang, and good
| | |forest of fuel trees in vicinity.
| | |
| | |Most of these distances will not
| | |compare with the map, as there is
| | |no regular track on left bank.
| | |Owing to swampy nature of country
| | |in rains, track continually
| | |changes as fresh ground becomes
| | |passable and country dries up and
| | |gets burnt. Track in places
| | |dangerous, as it runs through
| | |dense long grass, within a foot of
| | |a 10 to 15 feet drop into river.
| | |Cows and transport animals fell
| | |over this on several occasions.
| | |
| | |Track between Itang and Gambela
| | |must be followed on right bank,
| | |that on left is too bad. Cross
| | |river at Itang. One mile on is
| | |village, part of district of
| | |Pangmala, village being under
Ajuoto | 1 | 121½ |Sheikha Ajuoto. This village is
| | |situated in a dense rubber forest,
| | |and the rubber vines are found all
| | |along the river in the Anuak
| | |country. Nobody collects the
| | |rubber. All approaches to this
| | |village were closed with thorn
| | |“abattis,” owing to the presence
| | |of Abyssinians.
| | |
| 1 | 122½ |Cross a small khor, which is sandy
| | |and fordable for animals at this
| | |point only at this time of year.
| | |There is a shorter track, which
| | |leaves the Sheikha’s village on
| | |the right, but leads to a wide
| | |part of the khor, impassable to
| | |animals owing to deep mud. Track
| | |now runs along edge of dense
| | |forest right and broad khor left,
| | |with forest beyond.
| | |
| 3 | 125½ |Forest left ceases and khor runs
| | |into open plain. Track crosses
| | |khor several times; liable to be
| | |muddy and difficult.
| | |
| 2 | 127½ |Big khor runs down from forest on
| | |right to river, passable only
| | |close up to forest.
| | |
| 1 | 128½ |Another big khor to cross, similar
| | |to above; mouth of this khor very
| | |deep and steep, impassable for
| | |animals, which must cross up by
| | |forest. Track now inland, 1 to 2
| | |miles from river.
| | |
| 11½ | 140 |Big khor to cross with lake
| | |inland, about 1 mile from river.
| | |
Kaich | 1 | 141 |Large Nuer village marked as
| | |Kaich, but name not recognised.
| | |Track from here uniformly good,
| | |passing over a broad grass plain
| | |which lies beyond the belt of
| | |trees that fringe the Baro and the
| | |forest further inland. The plain
| | |is burnt in January and becomes
| | |passable; it is under water during
| | |the rains. Several Nuer dry season
| | |villages along the plain, but
| | |these people all go off in the
| | |rains inland; probably a few small
| | |villages remain, that are built on
| | |small mounds. Game abounds in the
| | |forest inland here.
| | |
| 3 | 144 |Track strikes a big khor and runs
| | |along N. bank of it for 1½ miles,
| | |and then crosses it. Villages
| | |dotted all along khor.
| | |
| 2 | 146 |Cross khor again near its junction
| | |with river near big round island.
| | |River round this island (S.
| | |channel) is very rapid and
| | |difficult. Villages all along
| | |here, track runs inland and passes
Kaig | 5 | 151 |big village shown on map as Kaig,
| | |which name is not recognised.
| | |Nuers have mostly left this
| | |village since traders arrived.
| | |
R. Adura | 1 | 152 |Balamkun, or Kwemnum, eastern
| | |junction of Adura with Baro. Adura
| | |mouth dry (2nd January), but water
| | |in large reach further along. Good
| | |gemmeiza trees all along Baro up
| | |to here for last few miles, but no
| | |trees met with after this until
| | |Ajungmir (mile 216).
| | |
K. Chaich | 4½ | 156½ |Khor Chaich, not shown on map.
| | |
R. Baitiok | 3⅞ | 160⅜ |Khor Baitiok dry (February), 10
| | |yards wide, shallow; track has
| | |followed this khor for last three
| | |miles.
| | |
K. Jokau | ½ | 160⅞ |Khor Jokau, 2 to 2½ feet of water,
| | |very strong current, waterway 20
| | |feet wide. Natives all say that
| | |this is the only mouth of Garre
| | |and that Khor Machar does not
| | |communicate with Garre. Villages
| | |of Baitiok, or Chanchai opposite
| | |on left bank. Cultivation—both
| | |banks and huts. These Nuers come
| | |from Garjak where their wet-season
| | |villages are.
| | |
| 3 | 163⅞ |Big shallow khor, full of weeds
| | |but nearly dry. Track all along
| | |here is excellent, several miles
| | |inland from river; burnt grass
| | |plain.
| | |
Kwe | 6¾ | 170⅝ |Large winter village of Nuers,
| | |Kwe; very friendly; track now
| | |descends to the river at
| | |
K. Machar | 3 | 173⅝ |Only a winter (dry season)
| | |residence; groups of these
| | |temporary villages are dotted
| | |about. Khor Machar dried up.
| | |Natives say it does not discharge
| | |water, but only fills up from the
| | |Baro. The mouth of Khor Machar is
| | |much bigger than that of Jokau.
| | |
| 5⅝ | 179¼ |Big khor runs E. and W. with water
| | |in it. There is no track here at
| | |all (February, 1904), and way had
| | |to be forced through jungle of
| | |rank unburnt grass.
| | |
Kamkiri (E.) | 6⅞ | 186⅛ |E. end of island of Kamkiri.
| | |Village ¾ mile inland. River
| | |called Mainyal; only temporary.
| | |Distances from Machar are probably
| | |all too long, owing to winding
| | |about through the grass; under
| | |similar circumstances however they
| | |will not be found to be much less.
| | |
Kamkiri (W.) | 3½ | 189⅝ |W. end of island of Kamkiri. Not a
| | |tree visible anywhere, and no
| | |shade available. Grass unburnt
| | |(21st February), and going very
| | |difficult.
| | |
| 10½ | 200⅛ |Khor with half a foot of water in
| | |it.
| | |
K. Loinkildom | 4¼ | 204⅜ |Khor muddy, steep banks, probably
| | |that shown on map as Loinkildom,
| | |which name was not recognised.
| | |
| ¼ | 204⅝ |Another khor similar to above.
| | |
K. Makeir | ⅝ | 205¼ |Khor Makeir and village right,
| | |very big khor, 15 feet deep, 40 to
| | |50 yards. Wide sandy bottom, dry
| | |and passable in places (February).
| | |Water in deep pools.
| | |
| 6 | 211¼ |Going as bad as before. Thin bush
| | |starts right.
| | |
| 1¾ | 213 |Khor with water in it; muddy
| | |bottom, 3 feet wide, 3 feet deep.
| | |
K. Nyakol | 2 | 215 |Ten yards wide, 6 feet deep, 3
| | |feet of water with mud; very
| | |perpendicular banks; this was a
| | |very bad obstacle, even the
| | |saddles having to be taken off
| | |mules’ backs (February 22).
| | |
Ajungmir | 1½ | 216½ |Village on right bank, trees near.
| | |
| 3¼ | 219¾ |Track cuts across corner and
| | |strikes river again at
| | |
Nyariau | 1¾ | 221½ |Village of Nyariau, in 3 parts; 1
| | |small part on bank of river, and 1
| | |large and 1 small about 10 yards
| | |inland. Track runs inland through
| | |bush and forest, and strikes river
| | |at mile
| | |
| 2 | 223½ |Very thick gemmeiza trees left
| | |bank, bush right. River fordable
| | |here (February, 1904).
| | |
| 3⅛ | 226⅝ |Beginning of Anuak, part of
| | |Taufot, right bank. Track cuts
| | |across here to
| | |
Taufot | 1¼ | 227⅞ |Taufot (Nuer), very big compact
| | |village; stands back. Latest map
| | |shows big island near Taufot, but
| | |it is non-existent.
| | |
Khor Wakau | 2¼ | 230⅛ |Thirty yards wide at mouth, but
| | |opens out to nearer 150 yards
| | |higher up. Muddy bottom; 20 feet
| | |deep in rains, 3 to 5 feet in dry
| | |season. Big village of Kadbeg
| | |short way up Wakau.
| | |
Nasser | 3 | 233⅛ |Nasser left, Kwoinlualtong, right
| | |bank, for the last 2 miles
| | |upstream from Nasser. River not
| | |fordable here (February), but
| | |animals swam over at lower end of
| | |island, opposite Nasser, without
| | |difficulty.
| | |
| 1 | 234⅛ |Track enters forest (heglig and
| | |talh), track bad; cracked cotton
| | |soil.
| | |
Tolor | 5 | 239⅛ |Khor and fishing village of Tolor;
| | |khor 60 yards wide, and 3 to 5
| | |feet deep, muddy. Track follows
| | |khor down right bank, and crosses
| | |it at junction with river at mile
| | |
| 2¼ | 241⅜ |Crossing 3 feet deep, artificial
| | |channel for catching fish. Track
| | |now follows river for 1½ miles,
| | |then cuts across corner for
| | |Manajok.
| | |
| 3⅝ | 245 |Khor with 2 feet of water in it;
| | |good crossing.
| | |
Manajok | 2⅞ | 247⅞ |Manajok, Nuer part of village;
| | |swamp between village and river,
| | |few trees.
| | |
| ¼ | 248⅛ |Anuak part of village on bank,
| | |good Meshra, thin bush behind.
| | |
Nyakoik | 1⅝ | 249¾ |
| | |
| ⅜ | 250⅛ |Thin heglig forest. Huts all along
| | |from Nyakoik.
| | |
Tuargai | ⅝ | 250¾ |
| | |
Shillup | 6½ | 257¼ |Good heglig forest left most of
| | |the way, and plenty of shade
| | |trees, though none shown on map. A
| | |khor 3 feet deep, just before
| | |reaching Shillup. Track follows
| | |river till
| | |
Nyanglang | 2⅝ | 259⅞ |And then cuts across corner
| | |through forest to Fauwel.
| | |
Fauwel | 2¼ | 262⅛ |Large scattered village, running
| | |back into the woods; good shade
| | |trees and meshra and camping
| | |ground. Track all along bank.
| | |
K. Nyandieng | 2⅞ | 265 |Very broad mouth, 1½ miles wide;
| | |main discharge about 1 mile
| | |further on, deep and artificially
| | |deepened for fishing; crossed by
| | |two rough bridges. This khor is
| | |said to connect with Nerol (Khor
| | |Filus). Some Nuers say it does,
| | |and some not.
| | |
Manchom | 3⅝ | 268⅝ |Shown on map as Sholwaga.
| | |
Shwol | 3 | 271⅝ |Shown on map as Fugah. Track from
| | |here on edge of forest, swamp
| | |between it and river.
| | |
Gaiyat | 2⅛ | 273¾ |Shown on map as Abong. Nuers would
| | |not accept three names above as
| | |per map. A lot of these Nuer and
| | |Anuak villages have two or more
| | |names, and people who use one name
| | |pretend not to know other.
| | |
Patiyam | 2 | 275¾ |Thick forest behind swamp; few
| | |good shade trees on bank. Track
| | |runs along edge of forest some
| | |distance from river.
| | |
Gohinya | 3¼ | 279 |Scattered village hidden in
| | |forest.
| | |
Fanyang | 3 | 282 |Scattered village in heglig
| | |forest. Track from here runs over
| | |dry swamp. A track exists at
| | |certain seasons of the year,
| | |generally when grass is burnt,
| | |from Nyangdeng to near Fanyang,
| | |saving a big round by the river. A
| | |track also exists from Fanyang to
| | |Wigin in a direct line, but was
| | |reported to be still choked with
| | |grass (3rd March, 1904).
| | |
Malwal | 3¾ | 285¾ |Track leaves river within sight of
| | |Malwal, then runs through long
| | |grass to near Fedwil, then along
| | |edge of khor and through bush to
| | |
Wigin | 4⅛ | 289⅞ |Small village 20 yards back from
| | |river, with deep swamp between
| | |village and bank (dry marsh), 2
| | |poor shade trees in village. Track
| | |gets on to river bank at 291st
| | |mile.
| | |
| 1⅛ | 291 |Good shade trees and thick bush;
| | |thick forest right bank ½ mile
| | |inland; end of Nuer country,
| | |though all along from Nasser the
| | |country is populated with Nuers
| | |and Anuaks mixed, Nuers
| | |predominating and letting Anuaks
| | |live on suffrance. From here
| | |onwards path is through bush to
| | |
Shwai | 1 | 292 |Long scattered Anuak village.
| | |
Fatiwanyang | 4 | 296 |In thick bush. From here to
| | |Yakwoik broad swamp between bush
| | |and river. Track in dry season
| | |runs over swamp.
| | |
| 2⅝ | 298⅝ |Khor with 2 feet water; several
| | |other khors to cross, marching
| | |along this swamp.
| | |
Yakwoik | 3 | 301⅝ |Anuak village on river bank. No
| | |bush, only grass plain round
| | |village.
| | |
| 1½ | 303⅛ |Junction of road that cuts across
| | |to Gnok with river track. Good
| | |meshra at junction; thick bush
| | |left. Bush and few trees right.
| | |One mile inland. From here track
| | |cuts across country to a debba on
Debba Dishin | 13 | 316⅛ |the river (Debba Dishin), where
| | |Yuzb. Abdel Rahim Eff. Nur El
| | |Gawab was buried in 1902, having
| | |died on the way to Nasser. From
| | |here track follows river, crossing
| | |two khors.
| | |
Abwong[45] | 6⅝ | 322¾ |A very big and important khor
| | |flows into the Sobat at Abwong,
| | |called Wangnait; this runs inland
| | |past Fanathiang, and is said to
| | |join khor Filus at Nerol. Two feet
| | |of water in Wangnait (March,
| | |1904), and running water. Abwong
| | |on sandy ground, good meshra;
| | |upstream limit of Dinka country.
| | |Serut flies were very bad, all
| | |through the thick bush country
| | |from Fauwel to Yakwoik.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
139.—GONDOKORO TO UGANDA (AND MOMBASA).
(_Compiled by the Editor._)
* * * * *
_Gondokoro and neighbourhood._ (_Vide_ also end of Chapter II in
Vol. I.)
BY CAPTAIN DUGMORE, 1901.
[Sidenote: Country.]
Near Gondokoro the country is perfectly flat and 30 feet above the
river, covered with borassus palm near the station, sidr, sunt,
and a few tamarinds and sycamore. Due E. lie the hills of Belinian
(about 11 hours’ march). The surface soil is sandy and the sub-soil
clay. There are many very fertile islands in the Nile covered with
cane-like reed, very like papyrus. Natives prefer to live on and
cultivate these islands, as they are not subject to white ants,
grasshoppers, caterpillars, and blight, with all of which cultivation
has to contend on the mainland. Flocks of small birds do great damage
to grain crops. At high Nile these islands are subject to inundation;
the natives then go over to the mainland.
The station now occupied at Gondokoro occupies the site of the old
Egyptian post—a good many of the old trenches and parapets still
exist. The old buildings, &c., have long ago fallen into the river,
which is said to be twice (?) as wide now as it was in Baker’s
time. Baker’s old camp (“Ismailia”) is in a swampy, low-lying
piece of ground, about 2 miles N. of the old Egyptian station. Two
date palms, 11 lemon trees, and two custard apple trees, still remain
at Gondokoro.
Rain percolating and the river washing away cause continual falls of
the bank.
[Sidenote: Garrison.]
One company of Uganda Rifles (Sudanese), under a British Captain,
Lieutenant, and Sergeant-Instructor. A small number of Police or
Constabulary have been added, and are under the control of the Civil
Authority, viz.: a Collector.
[Sidenote: Supplies.]
At present nearly all stores, ammunition, and clothing, come from
Mombasa, India, and England, _viâ_ Kampala. Food is obtained by
purchase from the natives.[46]
Natives grow red dura and maize chiefly, also a small amount of semsem,
telabun, ful (ground nut), and lubia (small pea or bean). The ground
nut does particularly well in the sandy soil. The sweet potato requires
irrigation, and the natives do not take kindly to such laborious work.
[Sidenote: Climate.]
The climate is fairly good, the rainy season at its commencement
being the worst time of the year. Temperature:—
Average maximum during the hot months is 99° in the shade.
„ minimum „ „ 85° „
„ maximum during the rest of the year is 88° in the shade.
„ minimum „ „ 74° „
[Sidenote: Seasons.]
Hot weather commences middle of November and lasts till end of
March. Rains commence (or should do so) last week in March and last
till middle of June, they commence again middle of July and last till
middle of October.
The rains are erratic, there being sometimes a drought and sometimes
too much rain.
[Sidenote: Products.]
Dura, maize, semsem, ground nuts, beans, and fish. A small quantity
of ivory. Salt from the left bank. Ostrich feathers from the
Latuka. (N.B.—According to recent game regulations, it is forbidden
to buy feathers unless it can be shown that they were pulled from a
tame bird.)
[Sidenote: Cattle.]
In the Nile province generally, the goats and sheep are small
(much smaller than those of the Sudan), and have little to recommend
them. The cattle (the few that are left) are also small, but are good
milkers on the whole.
[Sidenote: Game.]
Elephant, hippopotami and rhinoceros plentiful, especially the two
former, a few zebras and giraffe, hartebeeste (? Jackson’s),
waterbuck, bush buck, cobus Thomasi (Uganda cob), and dig-dig
abound. Buffalo and warthog may be met with. Lion, leopard, and wild
cat are fairly plentiful. (N.B.—During the dry weather months the
game is found near the river in quantities; when the grass is high and
there is water inland, it is not so easy to see much). Guinea fowl,
greater and lesser bustard, quail snipe, ducks, geese, and other
waterfowl and partridges are nearly always to be shot.
(_a._)—GONDOKORO TO WADELAI.
BY CAPTAIN DUGMORE, 1901.
--------------+--------------------+----------------------------------
| Miles. |
Place. +-------------+------+ Description.
|Intermediate.|Total.|
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
Gondokoro | — | — |A good road, though apt to be
| | |swampy in the rains.
| | |
River Kit | 12 | 12 |Cross River Kit; a sandy river
| | |about 180 yards wide, which is
| | |easily crossed except after very
| | |heavy rain (it subsides quickly).
| | |On the E. Lokoya’s chain of hills,
| | |about 11 hours march; greatest
| | |height about 1,500 feet. Road
| | |through dense thorn scrub, sidr
| | |very plentiful. Soil changes after
| | |passing Kit to a clayey formation
| | |in places, and stones and rocky
| | |kopjes become abundant. A rose
| | |quartz, very similar to the
| | |Rhodesian gold-bearing quartz in
| | |appearance, is plentiful. Most of
| | |the kopjes appear to be of
| | |volcanic origin. Ground rises in
| | |undulating folds from the Kit to
| | |opposite Dufile.
| | |
Fort Berkeley | 10 | 22 |From Fort Berkeley (=
| | |Bedden—abandoned), two roads lead
| | |S., one inland on the high ground
| | |for use during the wet season.
| | |
Adam Madi | 8 | 30 |The river road follows the river
| | |as far as Adam Madi’s,[47] and is
| | |used when no water is obtainable
| | |on upper road. Fine scenery, very
| | |rocky ground, sandy; plentiful
| | |remains of old Bari villages. Near
| | |Adam Madi’s-beautiful park-like
| | |country, with very large timbers,
| | |both tamarind and (?) sycamore.
| | |Country now becomes more hilly and
| | |is more thickly populated.
| | |
| | |The Khor Um or Uma is the real
| | |southern boundary of the Bari
| | |tribe, but the district is
| | |supposed to extend to the
| | |
Khor Assua | 69 | 99 |Khor Assua (mouth 94 miles from
| | |Gondokoro measured along the
| | |river) and, consequently, includes
| | |a few villages of Madi and Shuli
| | |tribes.
| | |
| | |The road used to go some little
| | |way from the river to Affuddu (a
| | |few miles S. of Nimule, now
| | |abandoned), but since the
| | |occupation of Nimule, the road
| | |from Adam Madi’s almost follows
| | |the course of the river, which
| | |flows through high, almost
| | |precipitous banks.
| | |
Nimule | 17 | 116 |Garrison at Nimule, two companies
| | |of Sudanese (124 strong each), and
| | |the same number of British
| | |officers each as at Gondokoro. Is
| | |headquarters of Nile military
| | |district, situated on N. bank of
| | |Unyama river at its junction with
| | |the Nile. Between Nimule and
| | |Wadelai the road is good.
| | |
| | |Lamogi, in the Shuli country, 16
| | |miles W. of Fatiko, and 50 miles
| | |S.S.E. of Nimule, is now
| | |abandoned; rains about 9 months in
| | |the year.
| | |
Wadelai | 77 | 193 |Wadelai, on the right bank, is the
| | |head-quarters of the Nile Province
| | |Civil Administration, some police
| | |or constabulary are posted here.
| | |River only 200 yards wide here.
| | |There is a road from here to Fajao
| | |(Murchison Falls), 46 miles, not
| | |used now.
| | |
| | |As one goes S., the climate
| | |generally becomes cooler than at
| | |Gondokoro. It should also be
| | |healthier, but there has been a
| | |lot of sickness among the British
| | |officers in the past, perhaps due
| | |to bad quarters. Country S. of
| | |Khor Assua is more fertile and
| | |much more thickly populated than
| | |the Bari district.
--------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------
NOTE.—See also report by Mr. F. Pordage, Public Works Department,
Uganda, in Uganda Intelligence Report, No. 15; and Handbook of Uganda,
pp. 52-57.
(_b._)—GONDOKORO TO WADELAI.[48]
---------+----------------------------+--------------------------------
| Miles and Hours.[49] |
+----------------------------+
Place. |Intermediate. | Total. | Description.
+------+-------+------+------+
|Miles.| Hours.|Miles.|Hours.|
---------+------+-------+------+------+--------------------------------
Gondokoro| — | — | — | — |Path good.
| | | | |
Laung | 11 | 3½ | 11 | 3½ |Path good, river Gomoro (Kit) is
| | | | |at times bad to cross.
| | | | |
Camp | 13 | 4½ | 24 | 8 |Path good.
| | | | |
Camp | 15 | 5 | 39 | 13 |Path good.
| | | | |
Fagiri | 12 | 4 | 51 | 17 |Path good; rocky in places.
| | | | |Large village; considerable
| | | | |supplies of food.
| | | | |
Keri | 13 | 5 | 64 | 22 |Path bad for 2 miles, remainder
| | | | |good.
| | | | |
Arabu | 16 | 5½ | 80 | 27½ |Path very bad.
| | | | |
Junction | 13 | 4½ | 93 | 32 |Path bad. River Assua difficult
Camp | | | | |to cross. When in flood about 80
| | | | |yards wide and 14 feet deep,
| | | | |with a swift current; when not
| | | | |in flood the river is fordable.
| | | | |Crossing is at all times
| | | | |dangerous on account of the
| | | | |numerous crocodiles.
| | | | |
Nimule | 14 | 4½ | 107 | 36½ |Path good. River Unyama at times
| | | | |bad to cross.
| | | | |
Zaipi | 18 | 4 | 125 | 40½ |Path good.
| | | | |
Boreli | 10 | 4 | 135 | 44½ |Path good.
| | | | |
Acho | 16 | 5½ | 151 | 50 |Path good. River Zoka at times
| | | | |bad to cross.
| | | | |
Pranga | 16 | 6 | 167 | 56 |Path good.
| | | | |
Avoi | 13 | 4 | 180 | 60 |Path good. River Chorr is at
| | | | |times bad to cross.
| | | | |
Wadelai | 19 | 6 | 199 | 66 |
---------+------+-------+------+------+--------------------------------
NOTE.—A small supply of food can usually be supplied at each of
the above camps, with the exception of the Junction Camp. Water is
obtainable at all camps. At many places fish can be bought. Trade goods
are brass, wire, small white beads, candles, matches, bottles, and some
cloth. Tarbushes are much appreciated by the chiefs. Hippo. abound
in the Nile, and elephants between Nimule and Gondokoro. Lions are
seen occasionally.
See also reports by Col. Coles, D.S.O., “Nimule to Gondokoro,
and Gondokoro to Nimule,” in Uganda Intelligence Report, No. 19.
The following short account of the country between Nimule and Gondokoro
is given by Sir C. Eliot (July, 1902), from _Geographical Journal_,
December, 1902:—
“Immediately after Nimule begin the rapids, which render the river
unnavigable up to Bedden, about 30 miles above Gondokoro. This
latter station and Nimule are connected by two roads, neither of
them good. One keeps close to the Nile, and was impracticable when I
made the journey, as it was under water owing to recent rains;[50]
the other runs further inland. It cannot be said to offer adequate
means for communicating between two Government stations, or for the
transport of any sort of goods. For a great part of its course is
obstructed by marshes, thorn bushes, or grass 6 feet high; but here
and there it passes through pleasant open meadows, studded with large
trees. Part of it consists of precipitous paths cut in the rock, and
it is crossed by many rivers, at least three of which, the Assua,
the Karpata (?), and the Kit (or Kiti), present serious obstacles
to foot passengers when in flood, as I found them. The first is
crossed on rafts made of ambach, a very light wood. The natives
show considerable skill in guiding these rafts across the torrent,
but the passenger or load is generally half submerged. The two other
rivers have to be crossed by wading, and are about 4 feet deep. The
Kit was about 150 yards wide. The whole journey took me 7 days, that
is to say, 6 night camps. The distance is between 110 and 120 miles.”
THROUGH COMMUNICATIONS WITH MOMBASA.
(COMPILED FROM OFFICIAL PUBLICATIONS, &c.)
Plenty of notice must be given by the intending traveller, in order
to secure the use of porters, boats, mules, and carts.
[Sidenote: Nimule to Butiaba.]
From Nimule onwards the traveller can generally make use of Government
boats. Between Nimule and Wadelai ([51]93 miles) the usual craft is a
small steel rowing boat, and from Wadelai to Butiaba ([51]72 miles),
(the Uganda Government Depôt on the E. shore of Lake Albert), a large
steel boat which goes best under sail. The usual time occupied between
Nimule and Butiaba is 10 to 12 days up stream, and 5 to 8 days down
stream. A steam launch will shortly be placed on the river between
these points.
[Sidenote: Butiaba to Kampala.]
At Butiaba is a pier and landing stage. From Butiaba _viâ_ Hoima
to Kampala, 157 miles (telegraph), the road is fairly suitable for
driving. The distance has been done in 4½ days, but the usual time
taken is 8 days (driving) to 12 days (marching, with porters). The
Stages are:—
MILES.
1. Wachi 6
2. Kajura 9
3. Hoima[52] 13
4. Kigonna 10
5. Kikonda 8½
6. Yilo 17
7. Kigoma[53] 9
8. Kiboga 5½
9. Kisingo 9½
10. Kative 15½
11. Kabula Mnbiro 9
12. Nkvanuna 11
13. Kikandwa 13½
14. Kisimbiri 11
15. Kampala 9½
Most of the main roads pass through Kampala.
[Sidenote: Kampala to Entebbe.]
From Kampala to Entebbe, the capital, situated on the Victoria Nyanza,
is 23 miles along a good cart road.
[Sidenote: Entebbe to Port Florence.]
From Entebbe there is a fortnightly steamer across the lake to Kisumu,
or Port Florence, the terminus of the railway to Mombasa. The crossing
takes 2 to 3 days per steamer, and up to 10 or 15 days by sailing dhow.
[Sidenote: Port Florence to Mombasa.]
From Port Florence to Mombasa there is a weekly train (or more)—fare,
109½ rupees; the distance, 584 miles, is traversed in about 2¼ days.
There is a monthly service from Mombasa, both by British India and
by German steamers.
RECAPITULATION.
-------------------------+---------+------------------------
Journey. | Days. | Transport.
-------------------------+---------+------------------------
Gondokoro to Nimule | 7 to 8 |March on foot. Carriers.
| |
Nimule to Wadelai | 6 | „ „
| |
„ „ | 6 to 8 |Row-boat.
| |
Wadelai to Butiaba | 4 to 6 |Sailing boat.
| |
„ „ | 3 |Steam launch.
| |
Butiaba to Kampala | 4 to 8 |Mule cart.
| |
„ „ |10 to 12 |March. Carriers.
| |
Kampala to Entebbe | 1 |Mule cart.
| |
„ „ | 2 |March. Carriers.
| |
Entebbe to Port Florence | 2 to 3 |Steamer.
| |
„ „ „ | 8 to 15 |Sailing boat.
| |
Port Florence to Mombasa | 2½ |Train.
-------------------------+---------+------------------------
Record possible, Gondokoro to Mombasa: 25½ days.
140.—ROADS IN THE LADO ENCLAVE.
[Sidenote: Roads.]
A road runs from Kiro to Rejaf direct, at some distance from the
river bank, with a branch road to Lado.
The road from Rejaf as far as Faraji—170 miles to the S.W.—is
about the same width as a good English high road. It has many bridges
over streams, small khors, &c. They are made of wood and are not at
all strong. There is a project to run automobiles[54] over this road,
but the bridges are not at present (June, 1903) strong enough. One
automobile will probably run between Rejaf and Yei station (94 miles),
and another from Yei to Dongu (62 miles), as there is no bridge over
the Yei. The Yei and Dongu are 40 to 60 yards broad and very deep
during the rains.
There are some parts of the road which are worse than others, and it
is proposed to have small stations at which bullocks will be kept in
order to pull the automobiles over them.
There are rest-house stations every two or three hours the whole way
from Rejaf to Dongu and Ibembo (_v._ below). At each of these stations
there are houses for Europeans, and at a great number of them bananas,
pawpaws, fowls, eggs, &c., are now obtainable.
Vegetables, bananas, &c., are being planted at all the stations.
Each station is in charge of one or more soldiers.
[Sidenote: Loka or Loki.]
Loka (called also Gumbiri).—Four days (62 miles) from Rejaf. A white
officer in charge, and one or two N.C.O.’s. Surrounded by a wooden
stockade. About six good brick buildings with grass roofs.
[Sidenote: Yei.]
Yei.—Close to the Nile-Congo watershed. Two days (37 miles)
from Gumbiri. Large fortified station, but not yet completed,
situated on high ground, from which good view of the surrounding
country is obtained. A far larger station than Lado. About ten
white officers and a doctor. None of the Belgian Nile stations in
any way compare with this one. All white men’s houses are outside
the fortifications. About 12 good brick buildings with grass roofs;
very healthy.
[Sidenote: Aba.]
Aba.—Three days (32 miles) from Yei. Wooden stockade. Four brick
houses and a large one being built for the Commandant. The latter
outside stockade. One white officer and one N.C.O.
[Sidenote: Faraji.]
Faraji.—Four days (38 miles) from Aba, on left bank of River
Dongu. Brick wall about 6 feet high. Ditch outside; earth from ditch
thrown up against the wall. Good brick buildings. Three white officers.
[Sidenote: Dongu, &c.]
Dongu.—Five or six days from Faraji; at junction of Rivers Dongu
and Kibali. Brick buildings.
Stations beyond Dongu, towards the Congo, on the automobile road,
are:—
Niangara.
Surunga.
Amadi.
Bomokandi.
Mbima.
Buta.
Ibembo.
A road also leads from Mbima to Jabbir and Gembele.
[Sidenote: Bofaki.]
Bofaki, or Wando.—Important post, and garrison. Healthy. Large
rubber and coffee plantations.
[Sidenote: Rejaf.]
Rejaf: on the Nile.—Small post. Bullock carts take 20 days along
the sandy road from Yei; usual time 7 days by march route.
[Sidenote: Dufile.]
Dufile.—Small post. There is a railway-track ready made from here
to Stanleyville on the Congo; not ready for traffic yet.
At all the posts mentioned there are cattle, fowls, bananas,
vegetables, &c.
Mails leave Lado for Ibembo on the 1st and 15th of every month.
From Rejaf a road is being made to New Dufile, thence to Mahaji. This
road is joined at Kaji Kaji, about 60 miles S. of Rejaf, by a road
from Loka.
From Yei a road runs down the Yei River to Amadi.
* * * * *
LONDON: PRINTED FOR HIS MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE, BY HARRISON
AND SONS, ST. MARTIN’S LANE.
[Footnote 36: The position of this, described by Lieut.-Col. Colvile,
is doubtful. Some Arabs state that Shebba is 8 hours’ march E. of
Terfawi (?).]
[Footnote 37: Lieutenant Stuart-Wortley makes Selima to Lagia 140
miles; Captain Hodgson makes it 148, but left the regular track.]
[Footnote 38: Captain Hodgson did it (February, 1903) in under 5 days,
including 42½ hours actual riding—nearly 4 miles per hour.]
[Footnote 39: Though Bir Sultan to J. Meidob appears to be the shortest
route, the route to J. Anka is stated to be the one generally used.]
[Footnote 40: Conditions may have changed for the better since the
delimitation of the Sudan-Eritrea frontier.]
[Footnote 41: For continuation of this route to Sofi on Atbara, _vide_
Route 13.]
[Footnote 42: For more recent report Lake Tsana to Gallabat _vide_
Routes 126 and 127.]
[Footnote 43: About 7 miles S. of J. Jerok.]
[Footnote 44: About 7 miles S. of J. Jerok.]
[Footnote 45: About 64 miles from Kodok, _vide_ routes 47 and 48.]
[Footnote 46: Cows, £5 to £7; oxen and bulls, £2 to £4; sheep
and goats, 5s. to 10s. each; eggs, 8 for 1s.; fowls, 6d.; labourer,
10s. a month. (Mr. F. Spire, Collector, Gondokoro, August, 1903.)]
[Footnote 47: Another account places Adam Madi’s at 42 miles from
Gondokoro, and some distance inland.]
[Footnote 48: Taken from “Précis of Information concerning the
Uganda Protectorate.”—I.D.W.O.]
[Footnote 49: Distances by time for men travelling light; 25% to be
added for Caravans.]
[Footnote 50: I am told by Mr. Pordage that the halting places on
this road are as follows:—“(1) Assua river, 11¼ miles; (2)
Rake village, 11 miles; (3) Mruli, 12 miles; (4) Lokoya, 12½ miles;
(5) Tambur, 12¼ miles; (6) Kogi, 9¾ miles; (7) Nagua, 10 miles;
(8) Fort Berkeley, 12 miles; (9) Ibrahim’s village, 12 miles;
(10) Gondokoro, 10 miles.” (Total, 112¾ miles.)]
[Footnote 51: By water.]
[Footnote 52: Government Station.]
[Footnote 53: Rest house.]
[Footnote 54: They now (1904) run over a section of the road between
Rejaf and Yei.]
[Illustration: THE ANGLO-EGYPTIAN SUDAN]
Transcriber's note:
pg 6 Changed "Rock grouse aud doves" to: "and"
pg 11 Changed "Hormaneb Well" and "Bir Hormaneb" to: "Hormareb"
pg 20 Changed "and than a N.N.E. direction" to: "then"
pg 36 Changed "and Wada Sangareh" to: "Wadi"
pg 42 Changed "kittr, laot, talh and saut" to: "sant"
pg 44 Changed "Debaina village and residence" to: "Debania"
pg 61 Changed "popula-lation about 1,000" to: "population"
pg 69 Changed "Selim and Dar Agil Haggaras" to: "Baggaras"
pg 72 Changed "Water suppy scanty" to: "supply"
pg 72 Changed "J. Kumuk is left to the W." to: "Kurmuk"
pg 76 Changed "few Baggara “rakukas.”" to: "rakubas"
pg 83 Changed "khor is of greater dinensions" to: "dimensions"
pg 97 Changed "right bank of tae river Ba" to: "the"
pg 102 Changed "runs close under this hilll" to: "hill"
pg 119 Changed "Um Sedeika (Rest house)" to: "Sedeira"
pg 120 Changed "This is a Kurtan villlage" to: "village"
pg 126 Changed "passing Village Eilatun" to: "Eilafun"
pg 126 Changed "mosquitoes and sand fles" to: "flies"
pg 141 Changed "cross an open pleateau" to: "plateau"
pg 142 Changed "buidings on J. Sukunja" to: "buildings"
pg 145 Changed "25 to 30 feet drip" to: "deep"
pg 146 Changed "Beni Fadi village named Shallo" to: "Fadl"
pg 152 Changed "the hills crowne with many Nuba" to: "crowned"
pg 162 Changed "and poor water upply" to: "supply"
pg 167 Changed "probaby 100 years old" to: "probably"
pg 172 Changed "low hills on on right" to: "low hills on right"
pg 186 Changed "I flows out near Ambukol" to: "It flows out"
pg 187 Changed "Bayuda Weels" [Above J. Hawashawi] to: "Bayuda Wells"
pg 196 Changed "no detailed imformation" to: "information"
pg 198 Changed "reaching Azleklesan" to: "Azteklesan"
pg 216 Changed "Kkor Damu, 20 yards wide" to: "Khor"
pg 219 Changed "Bad here full of rocks" to: "Bed"
pg 220 "Khor Gulbis" and its corresponding Miles moved up one row
from "At 2 miles from [. . .]" to "Ten yards wide [. . .]".
pg 220 Changed "¼ mile before crosing khor" to: "crossing"
pg 221 Changed "good obtained in hkor" to: "khor"
pg 222 Changed "in tukls on the hilll" to: "hill"
pg 229-231 Several instances of ²⁄₈, ⁴⁄₈ and ⁶⁄₈ were changed
to ¼, ½ and ¾ respectively.
pg 229 Changed "Bato fordable here" to: "Baro"
pg 229 Changed "R. Baitick" to: "Baitiok"
pg 230 Changed "however they they will not be" to: "however
they will not be"
Minor changes in punctuation have been done silently.
Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ANGLO-EGYPTIAN SUDAN: A COMPENDIUM PREPARED BY OFFICERS OF THE SUDAN GOVERNMENT, VOL. 2 (OF 2) ***
Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will
be renamed.
Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright
law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works,
so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United
States without permission and without paying copyright
royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part
of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project
Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™
concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark,
and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following
the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use
of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for
copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very
easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation
of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project
Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away—you may
do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected
by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark
license, especially commercial redistribution.
START: FULL LICENSE
THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free
distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project
Gutenberg”), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full
Project Gutenberg™ License available with this file or online at
www.gutenberg.org/license.
Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg™
electronic works
1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg™
electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all
the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or
destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in your
possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a
Project Gutenberg™ electronic work and you do not agree to be bound
by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person
or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be
used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few
things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg™ electronic works
even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See
paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project
Gutenberg™ electronic works if you follow the terms of this
agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg™
electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below.
1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the
Foundation” or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection
of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. Nearly all the individual
works in the collection are in the public domain in the United
States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the
United States and you are located in the United States, we do not
claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing,
displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as
all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope
that you will support the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting
free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg™
works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the
Project Gutenberg™ name associated with the work. You can easily
comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the
same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg™ License when
you share it without charge with others.
1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are
in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States,
check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this
agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing,
distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any
other Project Gutenberg™ work. The Foundation makes no
representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any
country other than the United States.
1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other
immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg™ License must appear
prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg™ work (any work
on which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the
phrase “Project Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed,
performed, viewed, copied or distributed:
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
at www.gutenberg.org. If you
are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws
of the country where you are located before using this eBook.
1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is
derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not
contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the
copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in
the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are
redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase “Project
Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply
either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or
obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg™
trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is posted
with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any
additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms
will be linked to the Project Gutenberg™ License for all works
posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the
beginning of this work.
1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg™
License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg™.
1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
Gutenberg™ License.
1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including
any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access
to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg™ work in a format
other than “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official
version posted on the official Project Gutenberg™ website
(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense
to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means
of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original “Plain
Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format must include the
full Project Gutenberg™ License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg™ works
unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
access to or distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works
provided that:
• You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
the use of Project Gutenberg™ works calculated using the method
you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed
to the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, but he has
agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid
within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are
legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty
payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in
Section 4, “Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation.”
• You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™
License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all
copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue
all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™
works.
• You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of
any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of
receipt of the work.
• You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
distribution of Project Gutenberg™ works.
1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project
Gutenberg™ electronic work or group of works on different terms than
are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing
from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of
the Project Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set
forth in Section 3 below.
1.F.
1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project
Gutenberg™ collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg™
electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may
contain “Defects,” such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate
or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other
intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or
other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or
cannot be read by your equipment.
1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the “Right
of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
DAMAGE.
1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you
received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium
with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you
with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in
lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person
or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second
opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If
the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing
without further opportunities to fix the problem.
1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS’, WITH NO
OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT
LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of
damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement
violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the
agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or
limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or
unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the
remaining provisions.
1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in
accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the
production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg™
electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses,
including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of
the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this
or any Project Gutenberg™ work, (b) alteration, modification, or
additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg™ work, and (c) any
Defect you cause.
Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg™
Project Gutenberg™ is synonymous with the free distribution of
electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of
computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It
exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations
from people in all walks of life.
Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg™’s
goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg™ collection will
remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
and permanent future for Project Gutenberg™ and future
generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see
Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org.
Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit
501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
Revenue Service. The Foundation’s EIN or federal tax identification
number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by
U.S. federal laws and your state’s laws.
The Foundation’s business office is located at 809 North 1500 West,
Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up
to date contact information can be found at the Foundation’s website
and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact
Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation
Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without widespread
public support and donations to carry out its mission of
increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest
array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations
($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
status with the IRS.
The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations
where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND
DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular state
visit www.gutenberg.org/donate.
While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
approach us with offers to donate.
International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation
methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other
ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To
donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate.
Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg™ electronic works
Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project
Gutenberg™ concept of a library of electronic works that could be
freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and
distributed Project Gutenberg™ eBooks with only a loose network of
volunteer support.
Project Gutenberg™ eBooks are often created from several printed
editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in
the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not
necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper
edition.
Most people start at our website which has the main PG search
facility: www.gutenberg.org.
This website includes information about Project Gutenberg™,
including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
