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Title: The book of hats and caps
Author: M. Elliott
Release date: December 26, 2023 [eBook #72511]
Language: English
Original publication: London: Faudel, Phillips & Sons, 1890
Credits: Bob Taylor, Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BOOK OF HATS AND CAPS ***
Transcriber’s Note
Italic text displayed as: _italic_
THE BOOK
OF
HATS AND CAPS.
BY
M. ELLIOTT,
(_Needlework Correspondent to The “Queen” Newspaper._)
Dedicated by permission to the Lady Marion Alford.
WHOLESALE ONLY OF
FAUDEL, PHILLIPS & SONS,
_NEWGATE STREET, LONDON_.
RETAIL AT ALL BERLIN REPOSITORIES.
_Entered at Stationers’ Hall._
FAUDEL, PHILLIPS & SONS,
Manufacturers of all kinds of
Embroidery and Sewing Machine Silks.
FILOSELLES IN 400 SHADES.
_Knitting and Crewel Silks in great variety._
_Fast-dyed Embroidery Silk for Outlining._
THE PEACOCK ICE SILK
[Illustration: REGISTERED
ICE SILK
TRADE MARK]
Is one of the most successful materials ever made, it DOES NOT CHAFE in
working, and after considerable wear RETAINS ITS SILKY CHARACTER.
It is well adapted for Socks, Stockings, Shawls, Vests, Ties, Gloves,
&c., &c.
It is made in two sizes, two-fold and four-fold; the two-fold being
more suitable for Crochet purposes, can also be used for Ladies’ fine
Hose.
LIST OF SHADES IN STOCK (_four-fold_)
Black
White
Cream
Grey
Drab
Old Gold
Buff
Bronze
Prune
Seal Brown
Pale Blue
” ” No. 2
Light Blue
Azuline Blue
Royal ”
Navy
Flesh
Salmon
Pink
Coral
Crimson
Cardinal
Scarlet
Ruby
Violet
TWO-FOLD.—Pale Blue, Pale Blue 2, Light Blue, Azuline, Royal, Navy,
Grey, Buff, Flesh, Old Gold, Prune, Pink, Coral, Cardinal, Scarlet,
Ruby, Cream, White and Black.
_Put up in Half-ounce Balls. Boxed One Dozen Balls of a Shade._
The qualities and sorts mentioned in the following instructions are of
the very best kind and make, and eminently suitable for all Knitting
and Crochet purposes.
Besides these, there are other qualities and makes of Peacock Brand, as—
Extra Fleecy.
B. do.
M. do.
Pyrenees.
Welsh.
B. Shetland.
B. Andalusian.
B. Eider.
D. Shetland.
D. Andalusian.
German Yarn.
Bicycling Yarn.
Arabian Yarn.
Petticoat Fleecy Wool.
Royal 60-turn Fingering.
Princess’ Knitting Yarn.
All of these are made from good quality Wool, are full value at their
prices, and give great satisfaction: still, the PEACOCK QUALITIES are
universally admitted to be superior to any other, and they were _Highly
Commended_ and obtained a Certificate at the Sydney International
Exhibition in 1879, in spite of the very large and extensive exhibits
of numerous other makes and brands, all of which were deemed inferior.
Ladies should be most particular to procure Peacock Qualities, or
qualities under Peacock Brand if they desire their work to be of a
superior kind.
WHOLESALE ONLY AT
FAUDEL, PHILLIPS, & SONS’,
36, 37, 38, 39, & 40, NEWGATE STREET,
LONDON.
In presenting this book to the Public of useful Knitted and Crochet
Articles, I wish to give a few suggestions with regard to the Wools
used and the mode of washing them.
No Wool is so cheap as the best. It is false economy (I have tested it
constantly) to work with inferior Wools. From a very long and tried
experience I have the greatest confidence in fully recommending Peacock
Qualities; they are full measure, and extra good. If washed according
to the directions I give, and not washed oftener than necessary, I
have no doubt of their wear. Little children’s knitted garments should
always be washed in the nursery, or at home. The following is an
admirable method; but, where it can be done, all Knitting and Crochet
should be “blocked” to dry. The “block” is a piece of evenly-planed
hard wood—generally box-wood—cut the size and shape of the garment.
In some cases the blocks are earthenware. Little feet, and models of
children’s legs and feet, can be procured in nearly all sizes. The
work, when washed and wringed, but not wrung, must be drawn on the
blocks and left to dry quickly in a warm place.
TO WASH WOOL.
All fine Shetland, or other finely-combed and spun Wools, should be
washed in a lather of bran—_no_ soap, unless very dirty. A gallon of
boiling water should be poured over 1 lb. of bran, and the two stirred
well together in a boiling state for five or six minutes; leave it in a
pancheon or basin all night; in the morning pour off the water, make it
lukewarm, wash your work in it, then rinse in lukewarm clean soft water
and block till dry. Where you have not a block, cover a board with a
clean cloth and pin the work out to dry. If the work is much soiled,
take a little transparent soap (it is the most free from all injurious
matters), mix into a lather in a little warm water, and gently wash the
work in the lather (on no account rub the work with soap), rinse in
cold water, and block.
CONTENTS.
PAGE.
Tam o’Shanter Cap 7
Ditto ditto Crochet 11
Jack Tar Cap 13
Dundee Bonnet 17
Bicycling or Patrol Cap 20
Tarbuch 22
Fisherman’s Cap 31
Turban 34
Football Cap 36
_No. 1._
[Illustration: Tam o’Shanter cap]
_TAM O’SHANTER CAP._
Knitted, for a Man.
You require 2 ozs. Navy Blue Eider Wool, ½ oz. Scarlet Single Berlin
for the Tuft, 9 needles, No. 15 for a very tight knitter, No. 16 for a
loose knitter. The cap knitted by these directions measured 12 stitches
to the inch, laid perfectly flat, with no stretching whatever.
Cast 4 stitches on to one needle. Knit these off on to 4 separate
needles, using a 5th, and work in rounds.
1st row—Knit plain.
2nd row—Knit 2 stitches on each of the 4 needles. You work these by
knitting 2 in each stitch: knit the stitch, and before taking it from
the left needle put the right needle between the two threads on the
left needle, take up the back part and knit a stitch on it. All the
increasings in the work are made in this manner.
3rd row—Knit plain.
4th row—Increase in the first stitch on each needle.
5th row—Knit plain. Repeat these two rows twice more.
10th row—Increase in every 3rd stitch.
11th, 12th and 13th rows—Knit plain. Repeat these 4 rows 3 more times.
26th row—Increase in every 4th stitch.
27th, 28th, 29th and 30th rows, plain. Repeat these 5 last rows 4 times.
51st row—Increase in every 5th stitch.
52nd and 4 next rows—Knit plain. Repeat from the 51st row 5 more times.
86th row—Increase every 6th stitch. In this round mark the beginning of
the round with some white thread, as it is essential to keep the rows
distinct. You will have to take more needles as they fill. 7 rounds
plain.
94th round—Increase every 7th stitch.
95th and 7 next rounds plain.
103rd round—Increase every 8th stitch.
104th and next 8 rounds plain.
113th round—Increase every 9th stitch. Knit 10 rounds plain.
124th round—Increase every 10th stitch. 10 rounds plain.
134th round—Increase every 11th stitch. 20 rounds plain.
164th round—Decrease by knitting 2 together every 11th and 12th
stitches. 10 rounds plain.
175th round—Knit together every 10th and 11th stitches. 9 rounds plain.
185th round—Knit together every 9th and 10th stitches. 9 rounds plain.
193rd round—Knit together every 8th and 9th stitches. 8 rounds plain.
201st round—Knit together every 7th and 8th stitches. 7 rounds plain.
208th round—Knit together every 6th and 7th stitches. 6 rows plain.
You now rib in alternate stitches of knit 1, purl 1, knitting each
stitch from the back of the loop, 30 rows, and cast off.
The work must now be flattened, and shaped. Cut a round of stiff
cardboard slightly larger than the work, put the work on the board and
damp it, leave it on the board until it is quite dry. You line it with
thin silk, and add the tuft.
The Tuft is made by winding the scarlet wool over card. Take a piece of
card, 1½ in. wide—it must be smooth and strong—double over it a piece
of fine wire the length of the card. Over the wire and the card wind
the wool until the whole is wound, take the ends of the wire and twist
the wool firmly and strongly together with it, slip the wool off the
card; this makes a firm, compact tuft. You cut the top open, cut it
level with sharp scissors, and sew into the middle of the hat.
_No. 2._
_TAM O’SHANTER in Crochet._
Work with two contrasting colours of the Peacock A. A. Fingering, one
skein of each, and a fine bone crochet hook, No. 12. Make a chain of 8,
with one colour only, unite.
2nd row—Work in double crochet.
3rd row—Work 2 double crochet in every stitch.
4th row—Work each stitch in alternate colours, passing the wool at the
back from one to the other, and increase in every 3rd stitch.
5th row—Plain.
6th row—Increase every 3rd stitch.
7th and 8th rows—Plain.
9th row—Increase every 3rd stitch.
10th and 3 next rows—No increasings. Repeat these 5 rows 5 more times.
34th row—Increase every 6th stitch. 4 rows plain. Repeat these 5 rows
until your work measures 16 inches across, work 10 more plain rounds,
and from that round begin to decrease every 6th stitch. This is done
by taking up the 1st on the needle, then the 2nd, and working the two
as one. Four rounds plain; repeat these 5 rounds until your work from
the last of the 10 plain rounds measures 4½ inches. You then take up
the stitches on 5 knitting needles, and knit 20 rounds, with one colour
only, of 1 purl, 1 plain, and cast off.
The Cap should be lined, and a tuft made in the same manner as directed
in the receipt for a Knitted Cap.
_No. 3._
[Illustration: Jack Tar cap]
_JACK TAR, for a Man._
In imitation of Plush.
In some of our shops this shape is wrongly sold as the Tam O’Shanter;
that shape is much larger, and the _under_ part much deeper than the
Jack Tar.
This Cap has a very soft appearance, and is light and warm. For a fancy
dress use light pink, blue, or cream; for general winter wear, maroon
or dark grey. You will require 5 oz. of Peacock Fingering and a No. 12
hook: about the same quantity of Peacock Lady Betty, and more if Fleecy
is used. If the work is _combed_ after it is finished, the Fleecy
should be used, as it wastes the wool.
Make a chain of 40 stitches.
1st row—Double crochet.
2nd row—Put the hook in the 1st stitch, wind the wool over the hook
and round the 1st finger of the left hand twice, draw the loops on the
needle through the double crochet loop, and finish as usual. Work the
whole row in this manner.
3rd row—Turn and work in single crochet.
These two rows are worked throughout; repeat them twice more. They will
be called _one_ row in the remainder of the directions.
6th row—Work 8 stitches, turn, work back.
7th row—Work 8, and 4 more on the last long row, turn, work back.
8th row—Work 12, and 4 more, turn, work back. Work in this manner until
all are raised, then work 3 more whole rows, working the 40 stitches.
Repeat from the 6th row until the work lies flat on the table and meets
easily. You will have to repeat it 9 more times according to some
workers, perhaps more with a tight worker. When the top is finished and
joined together, you work round the outside edge of the work 6 rounds
of loop crochet, work round and round, and work 1 stitch on the stitch
of the preceding row, always taking up the two edges of the stitch.
You now decrease for the under rim; this is not very wide, the whole
depth not being more than 1 inch. If the hat is being made as a special
fit, take the measure of the head, then measure the work, and decrease
gradually to the exact size; 6 rows of decreasings only are required.
For an ordinary hat, work for 6 rounds every 5th and 6th stitches as
one. After these rounds, you work 12 rounds of plain double crochet for
the head. The name of the wearer or a ship should be crocheted into the
band.
The letters should be drawn out on a piece of point paper; this is
divided into little squares 1-16th of an inch in size. Then you take a
coloured wool; each square represents a stitch, the letters are worked
in red or gold, in double crochet, by simply passing the wool used as
the ground at the back of that used for the letters. It makes a better
effect to work the letters by putting the needle into the stitch, pull
the wool through, the wool on the needle, put the needle into the same
stitch again, and draw through the wool on the needle and through all
the loops on the needle. This stitch raises the work.
You must next cut the loops of wool open and trim them neatly with a
sharp pair of scissors, and you have an exact imitation of fur.
The crochet work of the hat is now finished. Quilt a lining and sew in
the head. Cut a piece of lining muslin, 3 doubles, for the brim (or a
piece of leather), sew inside the 12 rows of crochet for the head, and
add strings at the back.
A tassel of silk is made in the same way as the tuft, and placed in the
middle of the crown.
_No. 4._
[Illustration: Dundee Bonnets]
_DUNDEE BONNET._
Knitted in red and black Victoria yarn, or any other mixture; black
Head-piece in crochet; a crochet-hook, No. 14.; six needles, No. 14.
Make a chain with the crochet-hook, working rather tightly, that will
measure 22 inches. On this work a row of single crochet, thus, * the
needle in the next stitch, draw the wool through and through the loop
on the hook; repeat from *, at the end of the chain join to the first
double crochet. On this foundation work very tightly, 12 rows of
crochet. Work each row with the same stitch.
1st row of Head-piece—The wool on the needle, insert in the next
stitch; draw the wool through, and then through the three stitches on
the needle. When the 12 rows are finished, take up all the stitches on
five knitting needles, an equal number on each; knit with the sixth.
The 1st needle is the first half of the back; the 2nd, the side; the
3rd, the front; the 4th needle, the second side; the 5th, the last half
of the back. Knit plain to the middle of the 4th needle, turn, purl
the stitches to the middle of the 2nd needle, turn, slip the first,
* knit 1, purl 1; repeat from * to the middle of the 4th needle, and
increase in every 8th stitch; knit 4 stitches less on the 4th needle
than you did before, * turn, purl the purled stitch of last row, knit
the knitted, and leave 4 less at the end of this half-round. Repeat
from *, increasing every 7th stitch in every 3rd row, and leaving 3
stitches instead of 4, as in the first repetition, then 2 stitches each
repetition, until you have one quarter of the stitches left on the
3rd needle. You must now work all these stitches, and, as you take up
each set of two, work an extra one on the side of the last, between
it and the first of the two next; knit the whole round, increasing on
the remainder of the 4th, 5th, 1st and 2nd needles, every 6th stitch.
Work the increasings by knitting 2 in one stitch, as directed in the
pattern, No. 1.
You must now knit in rounds, and increase every alternate round in the
6th stitch until the knitting at the back measures 1½ inches above
the band. The front must be 5½ inches deep; it will require some more
shaped rows, therefore, before you work the last 6 rounds of the back.
Work on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th needles as many more half-rows, repeating
the directions, until you have the right depth.
You now work the 6 rounds to finish the Head-piece, increasing every
6th stitch in _each alternate round_.
You next work 18 rounds with no decreasings; then decrease for the
crown.
The knitting, according to the work from which this is written,
measured 36 inches in circumference. Make a decreasing every 16th and
17th stitch by knitting those two stitches together; the 2nd and 3rd
rounds no decreasings. Knit in this manner until there are only 10
stitches on the needle, cast these off with a row of double crochet,
make a rosette, and place in the centre; add ribbons behind. Line the
head with silk, and the band with thin leather or double linen.
_No. 5._
[Illustration: Bicycling Or Patrol Cap]
_BICYCLING OR PATROL CAP._
Crocheted with Andalusian wool, and a fine bone crochet hook; a knot
of fine mohair cord, or very fine black bobbin cord; the former is the
best for use. The whole of the crochet is worked over this cord, which
gives a raised appearance, and makes the shape better.
Make a chain of 4, unite, draw the cord through the chain, loop it
securely over the cord and chain; work 8 double crochet. The cord must,
throughout the work, be held in its place by the finger and thumb of
the left hand, keeping it at the edge of the row, underneath and behind
the needle.
2nd round—In the 8 double crochet work 16 treble. Take up all the
stitches through _both_ loops, or your work will not have the ribbed
appearance it should have.
3rd round—Work 2 treble in every stitch.
4th and successive rounds—Work round and round, increasing to keep the
work flat, until you have 15 rounds. You now commence the band round
the hat. In the first round you must slightly tighten together the
cord, as well as in succeeding rounds, to keep it the right shape; work
9 rounds for this head-band, and finish with 2 of double crochet. You
then line with black linen, and sew in a piece of leather. Work a small
round of crochet to cover a button for the centre, and make a crochet
rosette to go round it.
_The Rosette._
Make a chain of 8, unite.
In this work 1 chain, 1 double crochet, 8 times.
2nd round—1 double crochet in the first chain, *2 treble on the double
crochet, 1 double crochet in the next chain; repeat from *.
3rd round—1 double crochet on the double crochet, * 5 treble on the 2
treble, 1 double crochet on the next double crochet, repeat from *.
Take the cord and work it round the next row.
4th round—* 1 double crochet on the double crochet, 2 treble on the
1st treble, 1 long on the 2nd, 2 double long on the 3rd, 1 long and 1
treble on the 4th, 1 treble on the 5th; repeat from *.
6th round—1 single on each stitch of last row. This is laid on the
middle of the hat and the button placed in the centre.
_No. 6._
_TARBUCH_
In black netting silk and gold thread.
The Tarbuch is taken from one worked in Egypt, and is the correct
shape. It is worked with very fine purse silk, twelve skeins; Japanese
or Chinese gold thread, the finest size, wind this in balls; a fine
crochet hook. The pattern consists of a star in the centre of the
crown: this star has 10 divisions, a border of vine leaves round the
edge, and powdered ground.
Commence the crown with black silk, with a chain of 4, unite; in this
work 10 double crochet.
2nd round—In every stitch of last round work 1 black and 1 gold. In
working with two colours you should knot the two threads together in
beginning, and throughout the work hold both evenly over the same
finger of the left hand, then, as you proceed, keep the thread _not_
in use in regular rotation over and under the thread in use; by this
means you work them in. Care must be taken _never_ to completely finish
a stitch with the one colour; if it _is_ done you have _two_ stitches
of the colour and throw the pattern wrong. In this 2nd round put the
needle into the stitch, draw through the _black_ silk, take up the
_gold_ and finish the stitch; take up the next stitch with gold, finish
it with black. You have now two distinct stitches.
3rd round—1 black on the black, 2 gold on the 1 in last round.
4th round—1 black on the black, 3 gold on the 2 in the last round.
5th round—1 black on the black, 4 gold on the 3 underneath.
6th round—1 black on the black, 5 gold on the 4 underneath.
7th round—1 black on the black, 6 gold on the 5 underneath.
8th round—1 black on the black, 7 gold over the 6.
9th round—1 black on the black, 8 gold over the 7.
10th round—1 black on the black, 9 gold over the 8.
11th round—1 black on the black, 10 gold over the 9.
12th round—1 black on the black, 11 gold over the 10.
13th round—1 black on the black, 12 gold over the 11.
14th round—1 black on the black, 13 gold over the 12.
15th round—1 black on the black, 14 gold over the 13.
16th round—1 black on the black, 15 gold over the 14.
17th round—2 black on the 1st black, * 14 gold over 14 gold, 1 black on
the 15th, 2 black on the next black; repeat from *.
18th round—5 black over the 3 black, 13 gold over 13 gold.
19th round—Care must be taken to make the gold begin exactly on the
same stitch in each division, as the right-hand side of each must be
even, one less worked each row on the left side. 3 black, 1 gold, 3
black over the 3 black and the last gold; 12 gold over the 12 gold.
20th round—Over the 13th gold and 7 black work 9 black, 11 gold over 11.
21st round—10 gold over 10, on the last gold and the black work 11
black.
22nd round—9 gold over 9, 2 black, 1 gold, 7 black, 1 gold, 2 black,
over the 11 and last.
23rd round—8 gold over 8, 15 black over the 13 black and 1 gold.
24th round—7 gold over 7, 17 black over the 15 and last gold.
25th round—6 gold over 6, 9 black, 1 gold, 9 black over the black.
26th round—5 gold over 5, 21 black over the black.
27th round—4 gold over 4, 23 black over 21 underneath.
28th round—3 gold over 3, 8 black, 1 gold, 7 black, 1 gold, 8 black,
over the black.
29th round—2 gold over 2, 27 black.
30th round—1 gold over 1, 30 black.
31st round—On the point of the star (the one gold stitch) work 2 with
black; on the next black work 7 black, 1 gold, 7 black, 1 gold, 7
black, 1 gold, 7 black; then repeat with 2 on the next gold.
32nd round—Between each point increase 3 stitches, and work entirely
with black.
33rd round—Black, and no increasings.
34th round—You work 1 gold exactly between the 1st gold stitch in the
31st round and the point, then 7 black, 1 gold, repeating all round.
35th and 36th rounds—Black; repeat from 34th round 5 more times. In the
last plain row work an extra stitch every 23rd stitch.
52nd round—* 8 black, 1 gold, 7 black, 1 gold, 7 black, 1 gold, 7
black, 1 gold; repeat from *.
53rd and 54th rounds—Repeat these 3 rounds twice more; increase until
you have 360 stitches, which will bring you to the part for the border.
Work a row of black double crochet, and begin
_The Border._
1st round—2 black, 3 gold, * 12 black, 3 gold, repeat from *; end the
round with 10 black.
2nd round—6 gold, 8 black, * 7 gold, 8 black, repeat from *; end the
round with 1 gold.
3rd round—4 black, 3 gold, * 4 black, 4 gold, 4 black, 3 gold, repeat
from *, and end the round with 4 gold.
4th round—* 7 gold, 3 black, 3 gold, 2 black, repeat from *.
5th round—2 gold, * 4 black, 1 gold, 3 black, 2 gold, 1 black, 4 gold,
repeat from *, and end the round with 2 gold.
6th round—1 gold, * 7 black, 3 gold, 1 black, 4 gold, repeat from *;
end the round with 3 gold.
7th round—* 8 black, 2 gold, 1 black, 4 gold, repeat from *.
8th round—* 9 black, 4 gold, repeat from *, and end the round with 2
black.
9th round—* 5 gold, 2 black, 2 gold, 1 black, 2 gold, 3 black, repeat
from *.
10th round—1 gold, * 3 black, 3 gold, 6 black, 3 gold, repeat from *;
end the row with 2 gold.
11th round—* 6 black, 3 gold, 2 black, 3 gold, 7 black, repeat from *,
and end the round with 1 black.
12th round—* 2 gold, 1 black, 2 gold, 3 black, 4 gold, 2 black, 3 gold,
1 black, repeat from *; end round with 1 gold.
13th round—3 black, 4 gold, * 11 black, 4 gold, repeat from *, and end
with 8 black.
14th round—1 black, * 2 gold, 1 black, 4 gold, 8 black, repeat from *,
and end with 7 black.
15th round—1 black, 3 gold, * 1 black, 4 gold, 7 black, 3 gold, repeat
from *; end the round with 6 black.
16th round—3 black, * 2 gold, 2 black, 3 gold, 4 black, 1 gold, 3
black, repeat from *, and end the round with 1 gold.
17th round—3 black, 4 gold, * 2 black, 6 gold, 3 black, 4 gold, repeat
from *; end with 1 gold.
18th round—* 4 black, 5 gold, 3 black, 3 gold, repeat from *.
19th round—7 black, * 7 gold, 8 black, repeat from *.
20th round—10 black, * 4 gold, 11 black, repeat from *, and end the
round with 1 black.
21st, 22nd and 23rd rounds—Black.
24th round—* 7 black, 1 gold, repeat from *.
25th round—* 5 black, 3 gold, repeat from *.
26th and 27th rounds—Gold only, and fasten off.
This completes the Cap. It should, properly speaking, be put upon a
block; this may be made of cardboard. Line the Cap through with a blue
satin lining, gathering it in at the top and sew over neatly with a
large button covered with satin. This must not be sewn in until the
tassel is passed through.
_The Tassel._
Wind the netting silk round a piece of cardboard 5 inches long, wind
a sufficient quantity to make it look handsome. Under the silk pass a
doubled length, and tie it all together very tightly, slip it off the
card, and wind two thicknesses of silk firmly over the tied end for
the depth of three-quarters of an inch, leave an end about half a yard
long, thread a strong needle with this end, pass it through the tassel,
under the silk wound over, and bring the needle out at the top; make a
firm chain of about 2 inches long with this silk.
You next crochet a covering for the top of the tassel. This is worked
in double crochet. Begin with 5 chain, work 7 double crochet on it, on
the 7 double crochet work 10, on the 10 work 14, and increase until it
will fit tightly over the silk you have wound over; work the depth to
cover the winding, sew it down strongly. Pass the chain through the
foundation chain of the cap, and sew very securely.
_No. 7._
[Illustration: Fisherman’s Cap]
_FISHERMAN’S CAP, for a Man._
One oz. of dark red, one oz. of gold wool.
These Caps should be knitted in stripes to suit the Jersey, jacket,
or shirt of the wearer. They are knitted in Merino wool, or 2-fold Ice
silk, on No. 17 needles. On a Lamb’s knitting machine use the finest
red silk; knit the Cap the full length in stripes; then, on each
side and in the middle, decrease until you come to a point; sew this
together, and the hat is made.
To knit the Cap with the wool or silk named, cast on on 4 needles 260
stitches with red wool, knit 16 rounds; change, take the gold, knit 16
rounds. Knit 16 stripes in this manner, 8 of red, 8 of gold, then begin
to decrease for the top.
Black stripe—Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 57, knit 2 together, knit
4, knit 2 together, knit 57, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together,
knit 57, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 57, knit 2
together, knit 2.
Knit 3 rounds plain.
5th round—Knit like the first row in the black stripe, but with 55
stitches between, instead of 57. Work in this manner, with 3 plain
rounds between each round of decreasing, until you have 41 stitches
between each set of decreasings, then decrease every 3rd round until
you have only 27 on the needle between the decreasings; after that,
decrease every alternate round until the decreased stitches come close
together; you then * knit 2, knit 2 together, all round; repeat from
*. In the next round knit 1, * knit 3 together, knit 2, repeat from
*; then decrease by knitting 2 together every stitch until you have a
point. Make a tassel of the two colors, and sew on to the point. Hem up
the foundation round inside the work, folding the knitting evenly in
the middle of the third black stripe.
* * * * *
This Cap can, of course, be knitted in any material; the finer the
wool, the more suitable. The size must be determined by measuring the
head; knit a small piece of knitting of 20 stitches square with the
materials you intend to use, and measure this with a tape measure. A
simple multiplication of the number of stitches you have in an inch
will enable you at once to cast on the required number of stitches,
then work as directed. A very handsome Cap is made by using a
combination of colors. Commence with black, ¼-inch, 3 rounds of red,
1 of gold, 2 of blue, 1 of gold, 2 of red, 3 of gold, 2 of red, 1 of
gold, 5 of blue, 1 of gold, 2 of red, 3 of gold, 2 of red, 1 of gold, 2
of blue, 1 of gold, 3 of red, 20 of black, then commence the red again
for one or two more stripes, and work the remainder of the Cap in one
color, or continue it in stripes.
_No. 8._
[Illustration: Football Cap]
_CAP, TURBAN-SHAPE, FOR FOOTBALL, Etc._
Crocheted with Japanese Silk, using black and gold, or any of the
colours required for clubs. You require a ball of gold Japanese silk,
one of black, a steel crochet needle, No. 12.
With the black make a chain of 3, unite, work round and round,
increasing to keep flat, until you have 32 stitches.
Take the gold silk, work 2 rounds of double crochet; turn.
3rd round—In the 1st stitch work * 2 double crochet, 1 in the 2nd,
take up the 2nd double crochet in the 1st of these 3 rounds, work 4
treble in it, join the 1st and 4th of these long stitches together by a
single; repeat from *. Work 2 stitches in every stitch after the treble
stitches.
4th and 5th rounds—Black, double crochet, increasing to keep the work
flat.
6th and 7th rounds—Gold silk, double crochet, increasing as necessary.
8th round—Like the 3rd round. Work in this manner until you have 7
rounds of raised work, which will make the cap the right shape; it
should be 6½ to 7 inches in diameter. Then continue the same with no
decreasings for the band round the head; you require 4 rows of patterns
for this. Finish the work with 2 rounds of black silk. Line the cap,
add a piece of leather round the edge, and put a button, covered with
double crochet worked in gold silk, in the centre.
For a Smoking Cap this shape, add a silk tassel, to hang down over the
side.
_No. 9._
_FOOTBALL CAP._
Crocheted in Japanese Silk or Eider Wool; Crochet hook, No. 12; 3 balls
of silk, or 1½ oz. of wool.
Make a chain of 3, unite, in this work 6 double crochet.
2nd round—Work 12 double crochet.
3rd round—* Insert the needle in the next stitch, draw the thread
through the thread round the needle, draw through the same loop again,
the thread on the needle, draw through all the loops on the needle;
repeat from * for each stitch. Work the round, and make 2 stitches in
every 3rd stitch of the round underneath.
4th round—Work the same stitch as last round, and in each successive
round, but work _between_ the stitches of the previous round. The work
must be kept rather tight. Increase every 5th stitch.
5th round—No increasings.
Work in this manner, increasing gradually, until the work is nearly 7
inches across. This will allow the size to be just under 21 inches;
about 22½ is a usual size in hats. The brim of the hat is increased
very gradually indeed. Work 4 rounds with no increasings; in the next,
divide the work into quarters; work an extra stitch in beginning each
quarter; and do the same every 3rd round, which will give the brim the
desired slope. When you have worked the top, work round and round, with
no increasings, for 6 rounds; then take the contrasting colour and
work 1½ inches of it; fasten off. Work another small round of the same
stitch in this colour, cover a large button or curtain ring with it,
and place at the top of the cap. Line the crown and sides with black
silk, and sew a piece of leather, 3 inches deep, round the rim.
Transcriber’s Notes
pg 18 Changed an unknown symbol to an asterisk at beginning of line:
* knit 1, purl 1; repeat from * to the middle of the 4th needle
pg 23 Changed: knot the two threads together in begining
to: knot the two threads together in beginning
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