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Title: Boy bird house architecture
Author: Leon H. Baxter
Release date: January 19, 2025 [eBook #75148]
Language: English
Original publication: Milwaukee: The Bruce Publishing Co, 1920
Credits: Bob Taylor, Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOY BIRD HOUSE ARCHITECTURE ***
Transcriber’s Note
Italic text displayed as: _italic_
[Illustration: Exhibition of Birdhouses in the Fairbanks Museum, St.
Johnsbury, Vt.]
BOY BIRD HOUSE ARCHITECTURE
By LEON H. BAXTER
Director of Manual Training, Public Schools
St. Johnsbury, Vt.
[Illustration: Decoration]
THE BRUCE PUBLISHING CO.
MILWAUKEE. WIS.
Copyright, 1920
THE BRUCE PUBLISHING CO.
INTRODUCTORY NOTE
It is with much pleasure that I commend to the public this little book
regarding the construction of Bird Houses. As Instructor in Nature
Study at the Fairbanks Museum it has been my privilege and pleasure
to co-operate closely with Mr. Baxter’s work in the manual training
department of the local schools. Through his instruction our boys are
proud to be considered natural guardians of bird homes in our town,
which is veritably a bird sanctuary. About two hundred suitable nesting
boxes have been placed in proper localities during the past three years.
The Museum offers prizes each year to the boys of Mr. Baxter’s classes
and our exhibit of Bird Houses on the first Saturday in April is an
event that attracts many proud parents to inspect the work of their
children.
In this little book, Mr. Baxter tells very explicitly just how any one
can build suitable houses to attract our native birds.
Just here I would like to say that any town or community that protects
its birds, insures its harvests against destruction by insect pests.
Therefore the economic value of Bird Houses is even greater than the
aesthetic. The results actually accomplished by Mr. Baxter along these
lines vouch for the accuracy of the information contained in this
little book.
INEZ ADDIE HOWE,
_Instructor in Nature Study_.
The Fairbanks Museum,
St. Johnsbury, Vt.
AUTHOR’S PREFACE
To the lover of the open, the woods, the fields, and waterways and all
of God’s wild things, this book is affectionately dedicated.
To lead the boy and girl toward their proper relationship with their
feathered friends of the air, and to instil the feeling of protection
toward our native birds, these pages have been written and these
designs made.
What is offered between the covers of this little book is the results
of study and observation of birds and their ways covering a period of
six years.
Each drawing offered is of a proven house, one that has served as a
home for some of our songsters and if the directions, here set down,
are faithfully followed, equal success will crown the builders’ efforts.
While the greater part of the text is the result of knowledge which
the writer has gleaned at first hand, yet the author has several times
quoted from the text of the Farmers’ Bulletin No. 621, United States
Department of Agriculture, and from a contribution by Edward Howe
Forbush, in Bulletin No. 1, published by The National Association of
Audubon Societies. Fig. 2, the photograph showing a blue bird entering
a box, is by S. P. Brownell, East Barnet, Vt.
LEON H. BAXTER.
St. Johnsbury, Vt. Feb. 2, 1920.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
Our Friends the Birds 11
Birds That Adapt Themselves to Nesting Boxes 12
The Bluebirds 13
The Robin 14
The Titmice 14
The Wrens 15
The Woodpecker 16
Bird House Material 16
Methods of Finishing Exteriors 18
Bird Box Specifications 20
Typical Bird House Specifications 21
Methods of Conducting a Bird House Contest 23
Bird House Day 26
Bird Enemies 27
General Directions for Starting Work on the Bird Boxes 28
Winter Care of the Birds 35
Plate 1—Blue Bird House 41
Plate 2—Blue Bird House 42
Plate 3—Blue Bird House 43
Plate 4—Blue Bird House 44
Plate 5—Blue Bird House 45
Plate 6—Box for Robins 46
Plate 7—Box for Robins 47
Plate 8—Box for Wrens 48
Plate 9—Double Wren House 49
Plate 10—Downy Woodpecker House 50
Plate 11—Box for Hairy Woodpeckers 51
Plate 12—Flicker House 52
Plate 13—Woodpecker House 53
Plate 14—Nuthatch House 54
Plate 15—Nuthatch House 55
Plate 16—Box for Tree Swallow 56
Plate 17—Titmouse House 57
Plate 18—Chickadee House 58
Plate 19—Houses from Common Objects 59
Plate 19a—Suggested Designs for Boxes 60
Plate 20—Feeding Devices 61
[Illustration: Fig. 5. Exhibit of Birdhouses Made In the St. Johnsbury
Schools in 1919.]
OUR FRIENDS THE BIRDS
It has been positively proven that birds will return annually in
greater numbers to localities where assistance, in the form of nesting
boxes, has been rendered by those interested in bird welfare, than to
those places where no such provision has been made.
A progressive study of our native birds by competent individuals,
especially through the United States Department of Agriculture in
its Farmers’ Bulletins, has shown very decisively that the return
made by our feathered friends by ridding our gardens and orchards of
destructive worms and insects, is many times as valuable as the small
commission they collect by sampling a berry or two here and there.
Innumerable quantities of seeds of plants and weeds which would
otherwise overun our gardens are eaten by the birds. This, together
with the fact that these same birds with their brilliant plumage and
beautiful songs, are a valuable asset to our neighborhood, ought
certainly to impress us that they are deserving of our assistance and
protection. Assistance is best afforded by preparing suitable houses
and feeding shelves for them, and also by placing bits of string,
horsehair, and other nesting material convenient for them. Protection
is simple and may be limited to laws safeguarding birds from harm, to
killing off as many as possible of the English sparrows, and to seeing
that cats are not allowed any undue opportunity for harming them.
The boy or girl who puts up boxes for the birds to nest in, supplies
them with drinking and bathing places, and provides food for those
species which remain in winter, is certain of an unfailing source of
pleasure, which can never be known to any one who pursues them with
airgun and stones, or simply ignores their presence. The chances are
that the bird-loving boy or girl will make the better citizen.
[Illustration: Fig. 1. Blue Bird Feeding Young.]
BIRDS THAT ADAPT THEMSELVES TO NESTING BOXES.
There is quite a large number of birds that easily adapt themselves to
the artificially made house. The main thing is to consider the type of
house that will appeal to the intended tenants, one that approaches
nearest to their natural desires and nesting sites.
Bluebirds and house wrens are the easiest to entice to the nesting box.
Plain weather stained boxes or those covered with bark have proven to
be the best type.
Purple martins nest in colonies but are scarce now in contrast to their
former numbers. Tree swallows take to the boxes, but if an occasion
arises where they have a choice between the box and a natural cavity,
generally the latter will be selected.
Chickadees and flickers take to the home-made box and, sometimes the
little screech owl occupies one of the man-made residences.
He makes a worthy tenant, for as a mouser, he is superior to the house
cat.
Robin Red Breast is another easily attracted native bird. Last year
I put up a robin shelf, similar to the ones shown in the following
drawings, and inside of fifteen minutes Mr. and Mrs. Robin had hired
the apartment for the season and were soon busily engaged in weaving
the nest within fifteen feet of where we were observing them.
THE BLUEBIRDS.
The eastern bluebird is a common inhabitant of all States east of the
Rocky Mountains from the Gulf of Mexico to Southern Canada.
In the Mississippi Valley it winters as far north as Southern Illinois,
and in the East as far as Pennsylvania. It is one of the earliest
northern migrants and everywhere is hailed as a harbinger of spring.
[Illustration: Fig. 2. Blue Bird Entering Box.]
[Illustration: Fig. 3. Chickadee Feeding.]
Domestic in habits, it frequents orchards and gardens and builds close
to human habitations.
Fig. 1 shows a bluebird at the entrance to an artificially hollowed
tree trunk, feeding its young. Fig. 2 shows another bluebird about to
enter a bird box.
THE ROBIN.
To many the robin is the most cherished of birds and is found
throughout the States east of the Great Plains, and is represented
farther west and south by slightly different sub-species. It breeds far
north through Canada, and is found even in Alaska. It is quite fearless
and will occupy a bird shelf close to human habitation. The robin,
however, refuses the enclosed house and therefore the front and one
side should be made open.
THE TITMICE.
These birds, although insignificant in size, have enormous appetites
and feed chiefly on small insects and their eggs that wholly escape
the search of larger birds. This bird, or some of its sub-species,
occupies the whole of the United States north of the latitude of
Washington and extends into Canada.
In the eastern portion of the country the best known and most widely
distributed species is the common black capped chickadee. Fig. 3 shows
a chickadee feeding from the hand.
THE WRENS.
The diminutive house wren frequents barns and gardens and particularly
old orchards in which the trees are partially decayed. He makes his
nest in a hollow where perhaps a woodpecker had a domicile the year
before, but he is a pugnacious character, and if he happens to fancy
one of the boxes put up for bluebirds, he does not hesitate to take it.
He is usually not slow to avail himself of boxes, gourds, tin cans, or
empty jars placed for his accommodation.
[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
The various species of wrens occupy more or less the whole country from
the Atlantic to the Pacific. The wren is one of our most friendly
birds and his presence should be encouraged about every farm, village,
and suburban residence.
THE WOODPECKER.
The woodpeckers are the true bird carpenters and do a great amount of
good in destroying harmful insects and boring worms.
These birds are found most everywhere in the United States, several
species remaining in the northern States throughout the year.
Two of the best known woodpeckers, the hairy woodpecker and the downy
woodpecker, range over a greater part of the United States.
One of the larger woodpeckers familiar to us all is the flicker, or
golden winged woodpecker.
Most all of the woodpeckers will adopt the artificial house, especially
those hollowed out of a split piece of limb.
BIRD HOUSE MATERIAL.
Great varieties of houses can be constructed of half inch lumber and
can be made very attractive to the eye. Other material, however, can be
utilized.
The most natural Bird Homes, and such as may often be provided with
the least trouble, are pieces of hollow limbs or small hollow trunks
of trees, or the old nesting holes of woodpeckers. If no limbs with
suitable cavities are found, they may be made by taking a piece of a
limb, about eight inches in diameter and fourteen to sixteen inches
long, dividing it in half, with a rip saw, from one end to within three
inches of the other, where the cut is met by a right-angle cut from the
side. After this an entrance hole of the required size is made through
the shorter or front half.
The two halves are hollowed out, as shown in Plate 19, so as to form
a cylindrical cavity about three and one-half inches in diameter and
ten inches deep; then the two halves are placed together and held with
screws or bolts. A similar Bird Home is made by boring an auger hole
from one end of a piece of limb to within a couple inches of the other,
plugging the bored end, and making an entrance hole near the other
end. These homes are adapted to woodpeckers, bluebirds, house wrens,
chickadees and tree swallows. A little larger home of the same type is
required for crested fly catchers and decidedly larger ones for the
flicker.
A good sized, deserted flickers’ home or similar cavity provides a
nesting place attractive to the screech owl.
A piece of wooden tubing from a chainpump, with the ends plugged, and
an entrance made in the side near the upper end, the tube being covered
with bark, makes a very good substitute for a hollow limb.
If old and weather stained boards are used in making the box houses,
bark covering is not absolutely necessary, but it adds to the
attractiveness, from both the birds’ and the human standpoint, and bark
affords a good foothold for the birds as they alight at the entrance.
Woodpeckers especially should have bark covered exteriors to their
homes.
Dried gourds, hollowed out, and with an opening made for an entrance,
often attract wrens and bluebirds.
While tin cans may be used, it is not desirable, in the author’s
opinion to make use of this medium as tin becomes very hot in the sun.
If cans are used, care should be taken to place them in shaded places.
Flower pots inverted, as illustrated in Plate 19, are suitable for some
of the smaller birds.
The old fashioned chimney having been replaced by the modern chimney
with small flues, the chimney swifts may be provided with suitable
nesting quarters by building on the roofs of barns or sheds, artificial
chimneys of wood.
Birds may not always respond promptly to the first attempt at placing a
Bird Box, but the would-be landlord must not get discouraged.
Prepare some Bird Homes in as attractive a manner as possible, keep a
supply of water for bathing and drinking at hand, and prevent their
being disturbed. Then watch for the results that are almost sure to
come.
Persistent and intelligent effort will bring ultimate results, which
will be sure to reward the attempt. Experience is the best teacher.
METHODS OF FINISHING EXTERIORS.
As has been before stated, the best finish for the outside of our Bird
Houses is bark.
The writer has experimented with various kinds of bark and has obtained
the best results with the bark from the cedar.
It is rough enough for the birds to obtain a good foothold upon, it is
very artistic in appearance, cuts and bends very easily and can be held
with four ounce tacks.
A word should be said here about obtaining this bark, as it should
never be taken from the living tree. Cedar posts are used very much for
supports in building and most any contractor or mill man has quantities
on hand. These posts most always must have the bark removed, especially
the part to show above ground, and the owners, I have found, are glad
to have the boys remove the bark from them. Sometimes a fallen cedar
will be found in the woods and from it may be obtained all the bark
necessary for a number of boxes.
If the whole Bird Box is not to be bark covered it is a good plan to
see that the roof is protected by bark.
The remaining portions of the house should be stained or painted a very
somber color, such as dull gray, brown, or dark green. Avoid all gloss
paints as they reflect light and tend to drive away rather than attract
the birds. Bright colors should also be avoided. A nicely constructed
Bird Box painted a brilliant red with yellow trimmings or some other
equally absurd combination such as the writer has seen, is a travesty
on proper Bird House construction. Gloss paints can be dulled by adding
turpentine.
Painted or stained houses should be put out at least a month or more
before the time for the birds to arrive. This is to weather them and
remove all odors. It is a good plan to put out Bird Boxes in the fall
if possible, and they are then in excellent shape for spring use. Do
not paint or stain Bird Boxes on the inside.
Place the houses in quiet places, away from the direct rays of the sun,
high enough to be out of the way of prowling cats or too inquisitive
human beings.
BIRD BOX SPECIFICATIONS.
To successfully entice the birds to a man,—or rather boy—or girl-made
home, there are certain rules which experience has proven we must
follow.
The drawings in this book have been made as nearly correct as careful
study of all available data on the subject will allow. The author feels
confident that if the drawings, together with the specifications that
go with them, are carefully followed the artisan will be amply rewarded
by finding all bird tenements “let” as soon as the spring migration and
nesting season starts.
These houses and many of varied design have been successfully built
by pupils of the seventh and eighth grades, with over 75 percent of
success in having them occupied.
The table given below gives the correct dimensions for a variety of
houses for different birds.
The size of the opening is very important, as it is essential that it
be no larger than is necessary for the bird for whom it is intended, to
conveniently enter.
The smaller birds will be bothered a great deal by the English sparrow,
who enters if the opening is not kept very small.
It is considered by a majority of authorities that a perch is not a
help but a hindrance at the opening. The sparrows alight there and
by their incessant chirping drive out or annoy the more desirable
occupants. Again, the bluebird and most of the other song birds can fly
directly to the edge of the opening and thus go in, while the sparrow,
not quite as clever, must first alight on the perch and get his
bearing before hopping in.
It is exceedingly important that there be some means of cleaning out
Bird Houses at the season’s end or to remove any dead birdlings during
the season. This may be taken care of by having either the roof or the
bottom hinged.
TYPICAL BIRD HOUSE SPECIFICATIONS.
=====================================================================
Floor Depth Entrance Diameter Height
Area in in Above of From
Inches Inches Floor in Entrance Ground
Bird Inches in Inches in Inches
======================================================================
Bluebird 5×5 8 6 1½ 5-10
Robin 6×8 8 [A] [A] 6-15
Chickadee 4×4 8-10 8 1⅛ 6-15
Tufted Titmouse 4×4 8-10 8 1¼ 6-15
White-breasted Nuthatch 4×4 8-10 8 1¼ 12-20
House Wren 4×4 6-8 1-6 ⅞ 6-10
Bewick Wren 4×4 6-8 1-6 1⅛ 6-10
Carolina Wren 4×4 6-8 1-6 1⅛ 6-10
Dipper 6×6 6 1 3 1-3
Violent-Green Swallow 5×5 6 1-6 1½ 10-15
Tree Swallow 5×5 6 1-6 1½ 10-15
Barn Swallow 6×6 6 [A] [A] 8-12
Martin 6×6 6 1 2½ 16-20
Swallow 6×6 6 1 2½ 16-20
Song Sparrow 6×6 6 [B] 1-3
Crested Flycatcher 6×6 8-10 8 2 8-20
Red-headed Woodpecker 6×6 12-15 12 2 12-20
Golden-Fronted Woodpecker 6×6 12-15 12 1½ 12-20
Hairy Woodpecker 6×6 12-15 12 1½ 12-20
Downy Woodpecker 4×4 8-10 8 1¼ 6-20
Screech Owl 8×8 12-15 12 3 10-30
Sparrow Hawk 8×8 12-15 12 3 10-30
Saw-Whet Owl 6×6 10-12 10 2½ 12-20
Barn Owl 10×18 15-18 4 6 12-18
Wood Duck 10×18 10-15 3 6 4-20
=====================================================================
[Footnote A: One or more sides open.]
[Footnote B: All sides open.]
There should be a few small holes bored in the bottom to allow any
moisture that might accumulate, to drain. Also, another set of holes at
least ¼-inch in diameter should be bored for ventilation, high enough
so that no drafts will affect the young. These are best located just
under the eaves.
In boring the entrance hole, tip the bit upward slightly so that rain
water will not drip inward.
Some device for attaching the house to a building or tree should be
provided. It is best to have the house stationary to prevent undue
swinging in a high wind, perhaps causing the breaking of eggs and
discomfort to the mother bird.
Houses of unusual shape or design are not considered as good as the
plainer types, the idea being to make each house harmonize as naturally
as possible with the surroundings.
It must be evident from the foregoing that there are quite a number of
things to keep in mind as we prepare our plans for the homes of the
future feathered inhabitants.
METHODS OF CONDUCTING A BIRD HOUSE CONTEST.
St. Johnsbury, Vermont, is very fortunate in having a fine Museum of
Natural Science with a corps of very efficient workers on its staff.
Every year the directors of the Museum donate a substantial amount of
prize money as rewards for the best houses constructed for birds by
pupils of the grammar school.
The local Commercial Club, as well as many of the merchants also, add
generously to the fund, so that the boys and girls, besides having an
incentive for helping their bird friends from an economic standpoint,
also have a chance to profit financially.
Previous to starting work the Museum instructors give interesting
lectures on the necessity of providing all possible assistance for the
birds, and by mounted specimens show the various birds that readily
accept the artificial houses. They also explain the entrance sizes
required by the different species, and go into detail concerning
ventilation, drainage, coloring and placing of the houses.
[Illustration: Fig. 6. A Group of Prize Winners.]
Later on the children are taken on bird walks, so as to study first
hand the characteristics, habitat, and difference in coloring of the
male and female of the various native birds.
Original designs are encouraged, and with discussions and good advice
the work is started. A stated amount of time is allowed for completing
the houses, and the material is paid for by each pupil.
On the appointed day the houses are numbered and grouped and are ready
for the judging.
Three judges are appointed from among people who are proficient to
judge such an exhibit, usually one of the museum instructors, to judge
the technical side, a carpenter or mechanic, to judge the workmanship,
and one who is interested in art to take care of the general design
and appearance.
[Illustration: Fig. 7. Results of the First Contest in St. Johnsbury.]
The score card is as follows:
Fitness to purpose 50%
Skill in Workmanship 30%
Appearance, design, color 20%
————
Total 100%
Each judge marks individually on the tally and the box whose score is
highest in the estimation of all, receives first and so on through all
the prizes.
[Illustration: Fig. 8. Some Houses Made in 1916.]
Sometimes the pupils judge the display beforehand and compare their
results with those of the selected judges, and it has proven generally
that boys and girls will use very excellent judgment in selecting the
winners.
[Illustration: Fig. 9. A Few Houses Made in 1917.]
The prizes are usually tools, good books, and thrift stamps, and
this annual event is looked forward to with keen anticipation by the
youthful designers.
Figs. 4 and 5 show exhibits at the local museum for the past two years.
Fig. 6 shows a group of prize winners.
Figs. 7, 8 and 9 show collections of houses made during the past four
years.
Fig. 10 shows one prize winner with his house hollowed from a piece of
birch limb.
BIRD HOUSE DAY.
After the prize winners have been announced a day is set for all who
are interested, to gather at the Museum, and with nails, hammers, wire
and step ladder, together with the Bird Boxes start out to place the
houses in position. Fig. 11 shows a group about to start. Fig. 12 gives
a view of the boys placing a house in a tree.
BIRD ENEMIES.
Our bird friends have much to contend with in raising their broods, and
it is here we can render them valuable assistance.
The cat, the greatest enemy of birds, must be attended to
diplomatically.
The shot gun method will not do here or we may find ourselves haled
into court upon the complaint of some neighbor.
The best way is to guard the tree trunks with tin as suggested in
several ways in Plate 19. For tramp cats, having no home or owner, the
trap shown in the same plate will be found efficient.
Spikes may be driven in part way about a pole so that the row of heads
prevent the cats getting by.
[Illustration: Fig. 10. A Winner.]
[Illustration: Fig. 11. Children Starting Out to Put Up Houses.]
English Sparrows are another sworn enemy of our song birds and they
should be exterminated in every way possible.
Traps, air guns and any other means, no matter how diabolical, are all
too good for this feathered pest. Their nests should be pulled down and
the young destroyed whenever and wherever found. They are persistent
and must be continuously harassed.
Squirrels and snakes also steal both the eggs and the young and they
should be driven from localities frequented by birds.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR STARTING WORK ON THE BIRD BOXES.
First decide upon the bird for which your house is to be made and,
referring to the drawings, select the one which best suits your fancy.
Look the various pieces over and estimate about how much lumber will be
required, then plan your work so as to cut your board with as little
waste as possible. Take pieces of a similar width and get them out in
one long piece from your board.
Plane one edge of the board straight and smooth and call this the
working edge, or edge from which all measurements are to be taken.
Square one end square with the working edge and the surface. Measure
from this square end, the length specified on the drawing, and square a
line across the board, placing the try square handle tight against the
working edge.
Next take the cross-cut saw and saw carefully just outside your line on
the side away from the piece to be cut off. Plane now back to the line
and no further. The width must next be obtained either with a marking
gage, if you have one, set at the required distance, or by measuring
carefully with your ruler.
Now saw and plane to your line. Treat each piece in this manner and
mark with its proper letter, to be ready for assembling later.
[Illustration: Fig. 12. Putting Up a House.]
We shall consider, for illustration, that we are making the Blue Bird
House shown in Plate 3. We have our pieces all cut out and numbered and
shall now cut the shape of pieces A, which are the front and rear of
the house, from our pieces that we have previously cut 8½ inches wide
by 10 inches long.
[Illustration: A School Exhibit of Bird Houses at Crosby-Ironton, Minn.]
Find the center of one end, which will be one-half of 8½ inches or
4¼ inches. Measure down on each side 4 inches and draw from our edge
center to these points.
Find the center of our bottom edge next and measure 2½ inches each
side to make our bottom edge 5 inches wide, as shown. Draw from the
ends of this 5 inch lines to our points on the sides and we are ready
to carefully cut out the form as shown in the drawing. Always remember
when sawing to a line to leave about 1/16 inch between our saw cut and
the line and finish with a plane to the line.
Be sure that the front and rear pieces are exactly the same size and
shape to insure our house going together nicely later.
Take the bottom piece E and draw light lines from corner to corner, and
with a dot locate the points where we are to bore our drainage holes.
In boring these take care not to split through on the opposite side.
Locate the holes for ventilation next and bore these carefully.
[Illustration: Some Bird Houses Made in the Schools at Rochester, N. Y.]
Take our back brace F next and draw a light pencil line from end to
end, through the center, and locate the holes for nailing to the tree
1 inch in from either end. The holes for screwing piece F to the box
are 3½ inches beyond these outer holes. Bore carefully.
Bore the entrance hole with an expansive bit set so as to bore a hole
1½ inch in diameter. The center for this hole is 3 inches down from the
top and 4¼ inches from either side.
If the house is to be painted it should be thoroughly sandpapered with
No. ½ sandpaper, going with the grain.
Take the sides and bevel them to fit the front and back pieces, that is
plane them so that when they are placed in proper position against the
front and rear, the edges will follow the same sweep as the eaves and
the bottom edge. All cutting should be finished before sandpapering so
as not to dull our plane blade with the fine particles of sand left in
the wood by the sandpaper.
Nail the sides to the front and rear, using 1¼ inch brads, placing
about five on each edge, and taking care that they strike fair in the
center of the edge to prevent splitting.
Next nail on roof C, having the rear edge flush with the rear of the
box allowing all projection to come in front. Have ridge edge just
level with peak. Next nail on roof B, seeing that it overlaps and is
nailed to the edge of C.
Next attach piece F to the rear of the box with screws, allowing equal
projection above and below the box. Take the bottom E and screw on an
inch butt hinge to the under side at the middle point of the rear edge.
Then place in position and screw the other part of hinge to F, taking
care that the bottom fits tightly against the bottom edges of the box.
Retain in front by means of a small flat hook and eye as shown.
[Illustration: Fig. 13. A Food Shelter.]
Our box is now ready to be either painted or covered with bark as
desired.
If it is to be bark covered use a pair of snip shears to cut the bark
to the size required. It is generally a good plan to cut the bark a
little large and trim off after attaching it to the box. Use 4 oz.
tacks, using as few as possible. Have the bark run uniformly in the
same direction over the box. Bark directly over all holes and when
finished cut these out with a sharp knife.
If a house is to be painted and have a bark roof only, paint first and
allow to dry, perhaps giving a second coat and then place the bark on
the roof.
This same method of construction as described will be practically the
same for any of the houses shown.
Lumber should be used that will withstand the weather. Cypress, spruce
and soft pine are perhaps the best.
WINTER CARE OF THE BIRDS.
If you wish to attract birds about the house during the winter, do not
wait until the ground is covered with snow, but begin in the Fall to
scatter hayseed from the barn or stable floor, on the bare ground about
the yard.
Millet or any bird seed will do as well. Hang some pieces of suet or
beef-trimmings on the branches of the trees beyond the reach of cats
and dogs. If at first these pieces are widely scattered at points
radiating from the house as a center, your success should be assured.
Your lures will keep best at this season if tied on the shade side of
a tree trunk; but later in the winter they should be put on the sunny
side. They should be well wound to limbs with twine, or covered with
wire netting, so that neither jays or crows can carry them off bodily.
They are now ready to attract and hold birds that might otherwise pass
on to the south. The birds may not find the food at once, but usually
they will find it sooner or later. When the chickadees have discovered
it we are ready for the next move.
Fresh meat or suet is now put up on the trees nearest the house, to
accustom the birds to coming there.
Many types of feeders can be made, varying the plain wood shelf, to the
artistic food shelters of natural limbs and bark. Some feeders can be
placed on movable pivots on poles with extended vanes in front so that
the wind will always cause them to be in a sheltered position. This
type of feeding shelf, Fig. 4, and others are shown on Plate 20.
[Illustration: Birdhouses Made at Rochester, N. Y.]
The window shelf shown on Plate 20, Fig. 1, is convenient and can be
easily watched and tended. Fig. 2 shows a feeding stick. Melted suet is
poured into the holes and allowed to cool and the birds eat from the
outside.
The cocoanut larder is inexpensive and easily set up. One end of a
cocoanut is broken in as shown and the birds have access to the meat.
Fig. 4 is one type of rustic feeder which has proven popular.
The following birds have been attracted about local feeders:
Chickadees, Fig. 3, nuthatches, woodpeckers, juncos, and even the wary
jay, Fig. 13. Figure 14 shows a simple form of feeding shelf with sides
of glass. A hairy woodpecker can be seen just below the upper box.
Corn, suet, scraps of meat, crumbs from the table, pieces of doughnut,
nuts, sunflower seed, frozen milk and many other food materials may be
utilized, if one wishes to experiment.
These methods of attracting and domesticating the birds will be found
full of interest, and in some cases our efforts will be rewarded by
having some little feathered ball jump fearlessly on our fingers for a
choice titbit.
The birds will furnish instruction and amusement to the household
throughout the year and a vast amount of good may be accomplished in
this manner, adding greatly to the comfort and happiness of our wild
bird friends.
DESIGNS FOR BIRD HOUSES
[Illustration:
_PLATE 1._
_BLUE BIRD HOUSE_
2”
10”
¾”
2½”
_Covered with Cedar bark_
_left side_
_Top hinged with 1” butt hinges_
5½” 5½”
1¼” 1¼”
1½”
C
_Two of these_]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 2._
_BLUE BIRD HOUSE._]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 3._
_BLUE BIRD HOUSE_]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 4._
_BLUE BIRD HOUSE_
A
6¼”
2”
4½”
_1½” diam._
2¾”
_Two of these_
B
4½”
_¼” venting holes_
_Two of these_
6”
C
5½”
9½”
D
5”
E
5½”
5”
BOTTOM
_⅛” draining holes_
F
2”
1”
4”]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 5._
_BLUE BIRD HOUSE_]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 6._
_BOX FOR ROBINS._]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 7._
_BOX FOR ROBINS._]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 8._
_BOX FOR WRENS._]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 9._
_DOUBLE WREN HOUSE._]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 10._
_DOWNY WOODPECKER HOUSE._]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 11._
_BOX FOR HAIRY WOODPECKERS._
5½”
_Edges beveled to fit inside of box._
6½”
3” 5¾” F 6”
B _Rear place_
_⅛” drainage holes_ C A
_Top edge to be beveled to fit roof_
1½”
9”
A B E
14” 11½” 7”
D F. bottom
_Box covered with cedar bark_
11½”
_¼” vent holes_
7½” 7½” 6”
C
6” 2”
D _Nail holes for attaching to tree_ 2½”
_Two of these_
17” 14”]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 12._
_FLICKER HOUSE._
A
8½” _Covered with cedar barn_
1½” A C D
_¼” ventilating holes_
BACK.
1”
_Two of these._ 10½” 7½”
BOTTOM
7”
20” _⅛” drainage holes_
9½”
3½”
_Holes for attaching to tree._ 7”
3¾” 2½” diam. C.
1¼” 1¼” 1½” 1¾”
2”
9” 7” 15”]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 13._
_WOODPECKER HOUSE._]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 14._
_NUTHATCH HOUSE._]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 15._
_NUTHATCH HOUSE._]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 16._
_BOX FOR TREE SWALLOW._
(CAT PROOF)]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 17._
_TITMOUSE HOUSE._]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 18._
_CHICKADEE HOUSE._]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 19._
HOUSES FROM COMMON OBJECTS.
_Gourds._ _Tomato Can._ _Flower pot._
_Milk can._ _Small keg._ _Small wooden box._
_Any discarded article of suitable size may be utilized for a nesting
box, those of wood being best._
_Metal objects should be placed in a cool shady place as they heat up
very badly if exposed to the sun._
_Methods of keeping cats away._]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 19A._
SUGGESTED DESIGNS FOR BOXES.
_Completely covered
with bark_
_Barn roof,
painted body_
_Natural limb
hollowed out_
_Cavity opened
showing method of
gouging and hinging_]
[Illustration:
_PLATE 20._
_FEEDING DEVICES._
_Drawings
made from
Farmer’s Bulletin, #621_
FIG. 1 FOOD SHELF.
FIG. 2 FEEDING STICK.
FIG. 3 COCOANUT LARDER.
—_Rustic Food Shelf_—
_To be attached to tree
or side of house._
FIG. 4 FOOD HOUSE ON
PIVOT.]
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