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Title: Notes taken during travels in Africa
Author: John Davidson
Release date: September 1, 2023 [eBook #71535]
Language: English
Original publication: United Kingdom: J. L. Cox and Sons, 1839
Credits: Galo Flordelis (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries/British Library)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES TAKEN DURING TRAVELS IN AFRICA ***
=NOTES=
TAKEN DURING
=TRAVELS IN AFRICA.=
[Illustration: _Drawn by J. G. Wilkinson Esqre. from a Sketch taken
by the late John Davidson._
_Drawn on Stone & Printed by P. Gauci, 9, North Crest. Bedford Sqre._
VIEW OF WADNOON.
_From the roof of Sheik Beyrook’s House_]
=NOTES=
TAKEN DURING
=TRAVELS IN AFRICA,=
BY THE LATE
=JOHN DAVIDSON, F.R.S. F.S.A., &c.=
* * * * *
PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION ONLY.
* * * * *
LONDON:
PRINTED BY J. L. COX AND SONS, 75, GREAT QUEEN STREET,
LINCOLN’S-INN FIELDS.
* * * * *
1839.
ADVERTISEMENT.
* * * * *
To gratify the earnest desire expressed by the Friends of the late
Mr. DAVIDSON to possess some memorial of him, his Brother has been
induced to print, for private distribution merely, the following pages,
drawn up from his MS. Journal.
It will be seen that they are only rough and brief notes penned at
the moment, and under circumstances the most trying to an active mind,
and with a presentiment of failure, which has been too truly realized.
For the generally correct manner in which the names of persons and
places are here given, and which in the MS. were decyphered with
difficulty, Mr. Davidson’s Brother has to offer his best thanks to the
Rev. G. Renouard and Capt. Washington, of the Royal Geographical
Society of London.
CONTENTS.
* * * * *
Page
Mr. Davidson’s Notes, kept in the form of a Journal 1
Loose Memoranda found amongst Mr. Davidson’s Papers 165
Letters from Captain Washington to Mr. Davidson 168
Mr. Davidson’s Replies to Queries 175
Extracts from Mr. Davidson’s Letters 176
* * * * *
APPENDIX.
Extracts from the Correspondence of Mr. Davidson, during
his Residence in Morocco; with an Account of his further
progress in the Desert 181
Account of Mr. Davidson’s Death, extracted from the Journal
of the Royal Geographical Society 202
History of Abou, extracted from the Journal of the Royal
Geographical Society 208
Mr. Hay’s Letter, referred to in the Notes, and
Reply thereto 215
=NOTES=
TAKEN DURING
=TRAVELS IN AFRICA.=
* * * * *
On Saturday, August 29, 1835, we left London by the mail, and arrived
the morning following at Exeter, where we went to the cathedral,
which Abou called one of the bishops’ churches. We proceeded the
same evening to Falmouth, which we reached on Monday 31st. During the
journey, Abou’s remarks were highly creditable to him; he expressed
himself quite astonished at the rate of travelling, which he had
ascertained by comparing the mile-stones we had passed with the time,
as indicated by a watch; nor was he less struck with the quickness
of changing horses, the punctuality in the arrival of the mail, and
the manner in which one bag is delivered, and another received, while
the coach is going on. In the whole country, he said very prettily,
no place for more than a mile could be seen without a _settlement_;
all is productive: no misery. He wound up his reflections with the
words,—‘Good king! good people!—African people all blind:
not know their own good, else they would ask Englishmen to come and
teach them.’
On Tuesday, Sept. 1, I went with Abou to see the Castle, where the
officer on duty put some men through the manual and platoon exercise,
and light infantry movements, much to the amusement of Abou, who
was not less gratified with the feats of horsemanship exhibited by
a company that performed the same evening at the theatre.
On Thursday, Sept. 3d, we went on board the _Sarah Nigritia_, and
got off at one P.M., with the wind a-head and a considerable swell,
which produced its usual effect upon many of the passengers, and
myself among the number, but poor Abou was the worst of all; during
the whole voyage he was absolutely wretched, and quite unable to
rally,—a rather bad omen of his power to bear up, should greater
difficulties present themselves on land.
On Monday, Sept. 7, we passed Cape Finisterre, running along the
shore in comparatively smooth water, but with a heavy swell; and
on the 9th we made Cape St. Vincent, and saw, at six P.M. on the
morning following, Cadiz rising from the dark blue wave; and at
half-past seven anchored in the bay. Some time before the boat came
off to give us _pratique_ I had gone ashore with Abou. After a good
breakfast at the _Posada Inglaterra_, I proceeded to the Franciscan
convent and chapel, and from thence to the cathedral. The last is a
very beautiful building, but rather too gaudy, and in not the best
taste of architecture. I returned to an _omelette_ and a segar,
and water and _rien de plus_; strolled afterwards through the town,
celebrated alike for _mostachas_ and _mantillas_, for playful fans,
bronze faces, and pretty feet.
At one P.M., we were on board again for Gibraltar. Towards Seville
there is a fine view of mountain scenery. But the country itself
is in a wretched state, the natural consequence of the numerous
revolutions it has been its fate to undergo, and where each province
not only declares itself independent of the government, but of one
another. How all this is to end, heaven only knows.
At ten P.M., we were called from the dinner-table by hearing that
a brig had been capsized. Went on deck, and found the report to be
too true. We sent our boats and took off some of the crew, and after
crossing Trafalgar Bay, reached Gibraltar at a quarter past ten.
Friday, Sept. 11.—I went to the library, club, and court. All
things seem to work well; but I much fear that I shall have some
trouble about Abou: he has been made too much of; the Moors are
all on the alert respecting him. I must beware of the French, too,
for I foresee they will be intriguing against me. While some of our
party are gone to visit the rock and the galleries, I am confined
to my room on matters of business, which is not quite so pleasant a
way of passing one’s time, although my window overlooks the bay of
Algesiras,—a view that would form not a bad subject for a panorama.
Saturday, Sept. 12.—The Governor, Sir A. Woodford, sent Col. Fuller
early to take me over the galleries, &c. Much as I had heard of them,
they surpassed all my expectations. On my return, I received a visit
from Sadi Abdallah, who wanted to take me to his house, and made
the offer of his best services, which, I suspect, will exceed all
the official ones. From him I heard that the king of Timbuctoo had
gone on a pilgrimage to Mecca, taking Gibraltar in his way; so that I
hope he may be returning to his capital when I am going thither. What
a fortunate thing it would be if I could get the appointment of his
Majesty’s _hakeem_ (physician). Mr. Hay likewise paid me a visit:
he is the British Consul at Tangier. As the subjects discussed
during the interview were of an official and confidential nature,
I cannot disclose them. I fear, however, that I am not to expect
much assistance from him, although his offers are very kind. There
is evidently something wrong on the other side of the Straits. I
shall be guided rather by the intelligence and advice I receive from
Benoliel,[1] whom I am to meet again to-day at the Governor’s,
whose kindness and urbanity I shall never forget.
The weather is very hot, although the wind is easterly. The vessels
of war sailed this morning for Cadiz. Spain is in a sad state. After
dinner I went to St. Nicholas’ Cave. It was lighted up with blue
lights. The band, the company, the soldiers, all added to the natural
grandeur of the scene. The more I see of this place, the more I am
delighted with it.
Sunday, Sept. 13.—The air much cooler. Staid at home and read the
psalms and lessons. Mr. Hay called, and, after a long conference
with him, I felt still disposed to adhere to my original resolution,
of being guided rather by Benoliel. Towards evening the wind got up,
and at night increased to a gale. The dust was dreadful. A Sunday at
Gibraltar is more remarkable than at any other place. Jews, Turks,
Moors, Protestants, and Catholics, all keep it in their own way,
and each in a different one.
Monday, Sept. 14.—The wind still very high, and the dust quite
distressing. I waited on the Governor as soon as he came from the
convent, and afterwards visited Benoliel. His Excellency recommended
my going, and he was backed by Benoliel, but opposed by Mr. Hay.[2]
Dined again at the Governor’s, where I met his chaplain,
Dr. Burrows, a gentleman of great learning.
Tuesday, Sept. 15.—Started early for the market. This is a curious
and interesting scene. Moors, Jews, Spaniards, and lizards in
abundance are to be found there, together with a few Englishmen. I
met there with a Mr. Hodgson from Virginia: he is a fine specimen,
_I calculate_, of an United States’ diplomatist, and the most
gentleman-like American I have ever seen. I have written to Mr. Hay,
to request he will make arrangements for my departure; let us see
what the result will be.
Wednesday, Sept. 16.—Mr. Hodgson improves much upon acquaintance. He
is going to Morocco, and I shall lose a fine chance should I not be
able to get off with him. Everybody says the detention is _too bad_,
and it perfectly unhinges me. The air is much cooler, although the
thermometer is still at 75°. I received a long dispatch from Mr. Hay,
which ended by his stating that he would write on Friday.
Thursday, Sept. 17.—Talked over matters with Mr. Hay, which are
more satisfactory than I anticipated. Visited Benoliel, who is still
disposed to assist me. Heard from him, that the son of the king of
Jemma was here, on his return from Mecca, and I am not without hopes
of being able to go with him. Walked out to the neutral ground; looked
at the stock and slaughter-houses, and did some shopping. Feasted
my eyes with a view of the blue Mediterranean, and the fine line of
the mountains of Spain, as seen from the eastern side of the rock.
Friday, Sept. 18.—Went out to breakfast with Capt. Sheriff, and took
Abou with me. The spot where he lives is very beautiful. There is a
large garden, in which almost every variety of plants and fruits is to
be found. He shewed me the use of Kater’s circle, and offered me his
own instrument; but I fear I shall make a sorry hand at it. Visited
Dr. Burrows, and accompanied him to the library: it contains a good
selection of books. I ran my eyes over some travels in Africa.
Saturday, Sept. 19.—The air much cooler. Paraded the town, and
passed the afternoon in the library. Begin to feel tired of the place;
and as I have to remain here a fortnight longer, I know not how I
shall get through it. I am at little expense, except for coach-hire;
but this makes invitations rather expensive. Hagee Assalam came with
a dress for Abou; but it did not please me, besides it was far too
dear; I have, therefore, ordered one from Tetuan. The musquitos are
a real plague.
Sunday, Sept. 20. Went to the ‘Ecclesia Nova,’ and heard,
as well as I could do in a building ill-suited for hearing, an
excellent sermon from Dr. Burrows.
Sunday, Sept. 27.—[The journal of the week, from the 20th to
the 27th, contains only an account of dinner parties; and though
Mr. D. complains of dyspeptic and dysenteric symptoms, he was
sufficiently recovered to go to church on the 27th.]
Monday, Sept. 28.—Walked to Alamada; afterwards attended the opening
of the session, when a true bill was found against a Mr. Shervill,
for dealing feloniously in slaves.
Tuesday, Sept. 29.—In the morning the weather was beautiful, but
at night it rained tremendously. Called on Benoliel, to know about
the presents [it would be necessary to take with me into Africa,
for the purpose of gaining the good-will of the native chiefs].
Wednesday, Sept. 30.—The rain came _slick_ through the house,
and the weather was very cold.
Thursday, Oct. 1.—Attended the whole day, during which there was a
great deal of rain, at the trial of Mr. Shervill, who was sentenced
to an imprisonment for three years, and to hard labour. [Upon the
question of the slave trade, Mr. D. says that Abou gave his opinion,
but which side he took is not told.]
Monday, Oct. 5.—Ascended the rock. Went to the Signal-house,
and then to O’Hara’s Tower; saw the monkies; descended the
Mediterranean steps, and returned by St. Michael’s Cave.
Wednesday, Oct. 7.—Rode to Europa Point. Saw the Governor upon
the subject of a letter from Morocco.
Thursday, Oct. 8.—The feast of tabernacles. All the shops shut.
Saturday, Oct. 10.—Went with a party of thirteen to see the
convent in the Cork wood, and to Castillar. The last was once a fine
large and strong fortification, but is now in ruins. The scenery
magnificent. As we returned by the _Bocca Leonie_, it made our ride
about forty miles,—a pretty long excursion for a summer’s day.
Sunday, Oct. 11.—Three packets arrived from England;—as yet
no letters; hoped to receive some by the Governor’s bag. Went to
St. Roques’. Was disappointed.
Monday, Oct. 12.—Breakfasted at Major Rose’s, where I met
Mr. Woolfe, who had arrived by the packet from England. He lectured
afterwards in the Methodists’ chapel, and gave me a hit or two. As
young Mr. Hay is arrived I shall go next week. Received three letters
to-day. Heard a lecture at the library. The _Jasseim_ sailed.[3]
Tuesday, Oct. 13.—Mr. Woolfe gave another lecture: it was nearly
a repetition of the former one. I feel most anxious to be off.
Friday, Oct. 16.—Heard bad news, which was, however, not
confirmed. [To what circumstance Mr. D. alludes, it is impossible to
glean from his journal.] Saw Benoliel, who was very kind; he brought
with him a lot of presents.
Monday, Oct. 19.—Attended the meeting at Dr. Burrows, and was
admitted the first honorary member of the Gibraltar Society.
Wednesday, Oct. 21.—Received a dispatch from Mr. Hay, inclosing a
letter from the Sultan. I shall have to go to Mogadore; but I must not
suffer such trifles to turn me aside from my purpose. I shall prepare
to start, if possible, on Monday next. Wrote to Tetuan for Abou’s
clothes. The Philosophical Meeting went off extremely well to-day,
and it is arranged for me to give a lecture before the Governor and
the Society on Friday next.
Friday, Oct. 23.—The lecture went off, I hope, pretty well.
Saturday, Oct. 24.—Passed the morning in receiving visits of
congratulation. I fear I am in for a second lecture, which, I suspect,
will prove a bore.
Thursday, Oct. 29.—Gave the second lecture, and then went to
St. Michael’s cave.
Friday, Oct. 30.—At length I have made up my mind to start for
Tangier. Saw Benoliel, and made some purchases.
Saturday, Oct. 31.—Began arranging the means of going to Tetuan
_incog._ with some fellow-travellers, who are to start the day
after to-morrow.
Monday, Nov. 2.—Went on board with the party, but the wind blowing
a gale from the East, caused the party to change their destination. I
now mean to go to Tangier.
Tuesday, Nov. 3.—The first meeting of the Philosophical Society
took place in the ball-room of the convent, and went off very well.
Thursday, Nov. 5.—A gale of wind, followed by rain, which comes
down here with a vengeance.
Sunday, Nov. 8.—The weather still boisterous; but, as the _Jasseim_
has arrived, I must now think of starting in good earnest.
Wednesday, Nov. 11.—Hazy and cold. Went round taking leave. Hope to
be off to-morrow, and to get on shore on Friday, which is considered
a lucky day amongst the Turks.
Thursday, Nov. 12.—Bought presents; packed up, and sailed at twelve
in the _Jasseim_. Met with baffling winds, and did not get in till
twelve P.M.
Friday, Nov. 13.—The weather cold. The gates shut. Went to
Mr. Hay’s, who was particularly kind; he has got me a beautiful
Moorish horse. We paid our first visit to the Governor, which was
a very satisfactory one.
Saturday, Nov. 14.—Got up early, and breakfasted with Mr. Hay. The
day cold but fine. We visited the castle and outskirts of the town
and prison. Saw the armour, the town fountains, and Socco.[4] After
lunch we went to the Kaid, to whom we made our presents, and received
in return _mona_—one sheep, twelve fowls, and one hundred eggs;
we then visited the tombs of the Sheiks, and returned by Vally.
Sunday, Nov. 15.—We intended to start for Tetuan at six A.M.;
but as usual, the first start is a jib. We got off, however, at
seven. The road was very heavy over a stiff clay. The first village
we reached was Marranna. It is situated upon a hill, but presented
nothing to interest us, except its numerous aloes, which were in
full blossom; we counted not less than sixty in a space not larger
than Grosvenor-square. The soil is very rich and the cattle are
splendid. We then passed on to Djedoéédi, through a most beautiful
country, with every variety of hill and dale, of mountain and valley,
and of wood and water. We took our meal at a well, and I contrasted
the simple food of the sturdy Moors—their thin bread, dates,
and water, with our own meat, eggs, and wine. In the neighbourhood
are the ruins of a large castle. After resting half-an-hour, we
continued our journey through a defile flanked by a wood, and having
something like a road, near which was a Fantasia,[5] which our kaid
wanted us to see, and to bivouack there: but this we declined to
do, and pushed on to El Bab, where, after frequent examination of
our persons, and a lengthened palaver, we were admitted. The whole
city was gone to bed. After groping our way, we reached at length
the house of one Cohen, the interpreter to the Consul, Mr. Butler,
who, in a most polite manner, got up to receive us. The thermometer
at midnight stood at 40°, and we felt the cold very sensibly.
Monday, Nov. 16.—We sent our letters to Mr. Solomon, and made
arrangements to visit the Báshá, a fine fat man, of the name
of Hashásh. Our reception was most flattering. Fifty soldiers,
ten under arms, together with his horses and a white mule saddled,
were turned out to salute us in the court-yard. He received us in his
kiosk, situated in a fine garden and enlivened by a fountain. He had
a heap of clothes of various hues before him. We were presented with
tea flavoured with ambergris, and other cups with verbenum in it,
&c. &c. There was likewise a mountain of dates, a Popocatepetl[6]
of biscuit, and an Ossa of sugared almonds. The tea was actually
poisoned with the quantity of sugar. We complimented him to his
heart’s content, and made our presents. He talked of his ladies
“_rárá_,”[7] and, after going over the palace, we went away
much gratified. We then paid a visit to Ersíní, the principal Moor
of the place, whose house is very beautiful, and afterwards went
to Mr. Levy’s, which is very comfortable, and saw the dresses
and ornaments of his lady, which were truly magnificent. We then
paraded the town. It is a large one, but, as usual, wretchedly dirty,
and filled with dogs, &c. that act the part of scavengers. Of the
bázárs, the Algerine is the most interesting, where we bought a
few things, and, after dining, drank tea with Mr. Levy. The town is
well situated, is surrounded with beautiful gardens, and protected
by very respectable fortifications; its population is about forty
thousand, of which the Jews form a fourth part.
Tuesday, Nov. 17.—We got up early, having felt very cold during
the night, when the thermometer was at 40°; received our present
of sheep, fowls, and eggs, which we sent to Mr. Butler, who would
have us dine with him. We then visited the gardens of the Sulṭán
and of the káïd, where we had a view of the country to the east;
inspected the excavations and the pot-making; we afterwards forded
the river. I cannot say I am fond of this fun. We then proceeded,
through dreadful roads, to the Marína, the port, and returned
home too late to see more of the town. After dining with Mr. Butler
we took our leave, much delighted: the civilities of Mr. Levy and
Mr. Butler I shall never forget. My expenses at this place were,
one dollar a-day for bed and board; one dollar a-day to the soldiers
who escorted us about the town and country; four to the one who
took us from Tangier: two for each of the mules; half-dollar a-day
for the beasts required for the promenade in the town and suburbs;
two to the deputy-governor; one to his favourite soldier; one to
his master of the horse; half-dollar to each of the negroes, and
one peseta to each of the fifty soldiers.
Wednesday, Nov. 18.—Up at four A.M. Therm. 32°. A great deal of
ice. The cold of this winter is unusually severe. We did not get
out of the city till six. Halted at the same well as before. The
journey requires from ten to eleven hours. We got in at five P.M.,
when we dined with Mr. Hay, who was exceedingly kind.
Thursday, Nov. 19.—The weather a little warmer, as the thermometer
has got up to 42°. This place may be called the garden of
the Tomans, the Ampelusian.[8] Dined with Mr. Hay, where I met
Mr. Hodgson. Although my letters have been despatched, accompanied
by one to the minister at Morocco, I must say, I have little hopes
of getting on.
Friday, Nov. 20.—Therm. 55°; much rain, and weather very
unpleasant. Received a visit from the Táleb Hasan, who is a learned
man. The letter sent to the Sulṭán was enveloped in a silk
handkerchief, and put into a tin case that cost two dollars; that
to the minister, with similar appendages, cost one dollar. I paid,
likewise, three dollars for the translation. On the day previous
there was much lightning, which continued through the night.
Saturday, Nov. 21.—The wind has veered round to the west. My
fellow-travellers think of returning. Not feeling very well, I have
employed the day in writing and receiving visits; afterwards I walked
out to the ruins of the old bridge. Paraded the town of Tangier,
which is no great things. I like Tetuan much better. I have been
annoyed all the day with the noise of a wedding celebrated after the
fashion of the country. Pipes of the most horrid kind, compared with
which the bagpipe is music itself, have an accompaniment of six drums;
a calf was killed at the door of the cage where the bride is kept,
like a hen in a coop. The noise of what they called singing continued
through the whole night.
Sunday, Nov. 22.—Up at daybreak; the weather delightful. Went to
see the party off. Every one wanting something, although the word
_bahkshísh_[9] was not heard; after much quarrelling and grumbling
they got to their boat, and we said adieu! Afterwards I went to the
church, where I heard a good sermon, but found the congregation
consisted of only two or three persons besides the family of the
Consul-general. Saw the game of _powder_[10] (_la’b-el-báród_)
played, myself on horseback and the Doctor[11] on foot. Fell in
with the procession of the marriage, the wild Ríf[12] and his long
gun, the bride in her cage. The dancing and howling of the party,
the horses, &c. &c. presented a most amusing, though somewhat
fearful sight. Amongst many slighter accidents they almost blew
up my house. I gave them some tea and sugar. During the revelry
I saw many very pretty girls, who were ready enough to shew their
faces when the Moors were not looking; many signs, too, were made,
but to me they were quite unintelligible. How these people contrive
to keep up their physical strength during two days and nights of
continued exertion, I cannot understand. At a little after midnight,
a black slave proclaimed that the bride was a virgin, in a manner
that would frighten our ladies. The announcement was received by
vollies of musquetry. It is now all over, and glad I am, as I shall
get a little rest.
Monday, Nov. 23.—Therm. 60°. A brig has just arrived from
Alexandria with two hundred Hájís; I am going to see them pass the
officer of health. Such jumping, and such putting out of tongues
here and there, such beatings and misery on many a countenance,
while the contents of a living charnel-house are poured out. The
báshá, the sheïkh, and the beggar, are all upon an equality,
and all looking equally wretched. As the tide had flowed up while
we were inspecting these poor wretches, we got permission to pass
through the batteries, which are but poor things. They are mounted
with guns of every calibre and all kinds of metal; some are, however,
very beautiful. There are two fine mortars, and the beds for two
others. I walked out with Mr. Hay and the captain of the port, the
Doctor, the interpreter, Ibn Súr, and his highness the Sheïkh. The
strong lines of contrast which the scene presented afforded us no
little amusement. There have been more Hájís this year than were
ever known. They are allowed to pass free through the different
countries, and are permitted to carry with them an investment, up to
three hundred dollars; but for any sum beyond this a tax is levied,
according to the means of the party. The Jews are compelled to take
off their slippers when passing a street in which there is a mosque;
they must not ride an ass through this town; they are, however, the
general merchants, and act as interpreters. The Muëddins[13] here
are a better class of people than those who perform the same office
in Egypt and Syria. The fountain is pretty, but going to decay. The
castle is weak, and its whole appearance wretched. I purchased a
dress, not a very handsome one, but it was cheap. I got my _háik_
for five dollars, slippers for one and a-half dollar, and boots for
two dollars. The _zulham_ here answers to the _bornus_ of Egypt;
the _jelábíyah_ are merely coarse sacks, with holes in them for
the arms to pass through.
Tuesday, Nov. 24.—Saw the rest of the Hájís, and consulted with
Mr. Levy about proceeding on my journey.
Wednesday, Nov. 25.—Therm. 62°. Took my first lesson in
Arabic; afterwards walked to the ruins of the castle of the old
government-house. Another wedding in the evening, but, thank
Heaven! it was a little further off.
Friday, Nov. 27.—Therm. 62°. Heavy rains the whole day. The
atmosphere is such as frequently precedes an earthquake.
Saturday, Nov. 28.—Weather fine and clear. Walked much about; went
to the Arsenal, called the ruins of old Tangier. Received two or
three patients. Abú tells me, that a white Sheríf has been making
inquiries about my character, religion, &c. Visited the sacred parts
of the city, the tombs and the sanctuaries, near each of which is
a tree of refuge.
Sunday, Nov. 29.—Went to church, and afterwards walked to the
market, and then to the káïd’s. At night there was a severe
storm. Therm. 66°.
Monday, Nov. 30.—Therm. 66°. Heavy rains, with thunder and
lightning. I had a little dealing for a Ríf gun, but the fellow,
after having sold it, would not let the Christian have it; and yet
the mountaineer offers me his children as hostage, if I will advance
him eight dollars to purchase a better one. I took him at his word;
he is to return in five days. Some symptoms of the cholera have made
their appearance; and, as the death-cry has been often heard, I am
very anxious to get away. These rains are very unfortunate for me.
Tuesday, Dec. 1.—Therm. 62°. It is still wet, but very seasonable
weather, for it will wash away the cholera. Not feeling quite well,
I walked out towards P.M. As the question of payment is coming on
again, the visit will prove very expensive; but the travelling must
make up for it.
Wednesday, Dec. 2.—Therm. 58°. The Americans do not go up to
Morocco. I am still waiting for an answer to my letters, but hope,
nevertheless, to start on Friday, should the rain hold off.
Thursday, Dec. 3.—Start to-morrow for the Autsét.[14] I
find I am getting into good training. Visited the Portuguese
Consul-general. Found there a good party of Europeans, who were
dancing in Africa, and playing at cards and drinking punch.
Friday, Dec. 4.—Rose early, hoping to start for the Autsét;
but as the rain had continued all night, deferred my departure
till to-morrow.
Saturday, Dec. 5.—Started at eight, after the usual quarrelling,
which almost came to blows. Mounted Mr. Hay’s fine grey Dukkálah
horse. Mr. J. Hay rode on horseback with me. We were accompanied
by a soldier, who would have made a fine picture. _“Poco negro;
cavalo blanco; abito de nada! ningun color.”_ Ben Káyed and Susa
were on the sumpter mules. In this style we wended our way to the Fez
gate. We passed various collections of huts, dignified with the title
of villages, and bearing names composed of high-sounding words. We
fell in with the Sheïkh of Arzilla; he was a fine-looking fellow
and very civil, and asked us to a wedding at a neighbouring village,
where he promised us a good deal of amusement. Declining his offers of
hospitality, we proceeded on our journey through a very fine country,
but much neglected, and bearing marks of misery everywhere. We
passed by two large stones placed on the brow of a hill; they are
said to be the bodies of a man and his wife, who were turned into
stones for attempting to shorten the ceremony of marriage. When
opposite to Jebel Habíb (beloved mountain), we struck off to the
right to see some large ruins. The original buildings were the work
of Christians, for the purpose of commanding a pass. Two villages
have been formed out of the ruins. We stopped at a well for a few
minutes, and, after passing through several Dawárs,[15] we halted
for the night at an Arab encampment on the top of a hill, at five
P.M. We had traversed a very rich country, intersected with various
rivers, which we found it no pleasant thing to ford, and were hardly
ever off our horses. As soon as it was known that I was a doctor,
I was requested to go to an Arab tent, a quarter of a-mile off,
to see a little girl. This was an event of distressing interest,
as few Christians have ever been inside the tent of an Arab. There
I saw the mother and grandmother of a fine little girl; she was past
all human aid. To allay the severity of the convulsions, I gave some
doses of calomel and James’s powders, but without the least benefit,
as she died at midnight. The failure, however, did not lessen their
confidence in my skill. In the morning I had a host of patients;
it seemed as if the whole people were sick. A singular instance of
Nyctalopia occurred in the case of a fine little boy, who could see
most distinctly in the night, but was stone blind during the day. I
told the father to bring him to Tangier, and I would see what I
could do for him. Having picketed our horses, we got up our tent,
and went early to our carpet, which is the travelling bed in the East.
Sunday, Dec. 6.—We felt very cold, though the therm. was 40°. We
found the hoar-frost outside the tent. After a ride of two hours
over a beautifully undulating country, we arrived at Emsorah,[16]
or, as the modern village is called, the Autsét, from whence we had
a fine view of the lesser Atlas. At the foot of the rising ground,
where we had pitched our tent, was a magnificent plain, and on the
side of the hill is situated El Uted, or the peg-rock. The people
here were looking very sickly. I had a patient in the Sheïkh,
a great fat man, to whom I gave a large dose of wine and cayenne,
to produce the effect for which the application was so general. The
population amounts to only two hundred, or thereabouts; they never
taste flesh, but live entirely on bread and water, vegetables,
and miserable _kuskusú_.[17] Coming round the side of a hill, you
perceive several stones forming a circle,[18] of which one, called
the Peg, is much higher than the rest; there is, likewise, a second
circle, but a third is never to be seen. The whole neighbourhood is
full of similar circles of stones, but smaller. Many of the latter
have been worked artificially. The entrance to the circle, which is
fifteen feet wide, faces the west; on the north and south of the Peg
are two other openings at equal distances. At about the distance
of two hundred feet, there is a stone placed at an angle of 45°,
intended it is said to mark the opening; it is six feet high, and
by lying on the back, one can see directly through the circle. From
this stone a shelving road leads to a well called _’Aïn tayyeb_
(good spring). But the chief tradition of the place relates to the
gold-treasure said to be concealed here. The poor creatures sleep
upon this stone in all weathers, and they were delighted to see the
compass going round while we were taking the bearings of the place,
for they fancied that the gold turned as the needle did. One old woman
patted me on the back, and said, “Now make us rich,—now find
the gold.” It would be cruel to undeceive them. I offered money
for all the iron and copper they brought me, and I told them they
were welcome to all the gold and silver they could find. I purchased
two coins: an old piece of the handle of a bucket was brought me,
together with a nail; of course they were not worth a farthing. One
account attributes the erection of the stones to Pharaoh; by others it
is said that there was once a large city there, subsequently buried,
and that what remains is only the top. I think it has been a large
place, and I would willingly pay for exploring it. The people say,
it was the city of a giant race, who were of such a size that the
shin-bone of a woman formed a bridge over the stream. The elk horn
in Ireland.[19] The ’Arákín on the E.S.E. are five large stones,
one of which is like a coffin; but I think it is too solid to have
ever answered that purpose. On the W.N.W. there are five others,
each forming a sort of vestibule to the side entrances mentioned
above. At the centre entrance the stones lie flat on the ground. It
appears to have been a great place of resort for religious purposes,
and the various circles to have been the various spots selected for
the performance of religious rites. The circle is 630 feet; the Peg
16½ feet high, and 6½ in circumference; the larger entrance is 15
feet wide; at the distance of 112 feet on the E.S.E. and W.N.W. sides
are two other entrances, 5 feet wide, and the semi-diameter of the
circle is 74 feet. We walked through the village and made friends of
the ladies, by giving them and their children each a small piece of
money. In this way we expended three or four more dollars than the
place possessed previously. We had the whole village following us,
and were obliged to use our whips to keep off the people and dogs. Our
own dinner, and the supper of the attendants, the two tents, with
the soldier mentioned above and his white horse, our own horses and
mules, together with the miserable population in the background,
would have made an interesting group for a picture.
Monday, Dec. 7.—Therm. 50°. The rain commenced about nine last
night, and got through our tents at half-past eleven, which made
us very miserable. Our guard was drenched to the skin. A hawk,
a large toad, hundreds of spiders, and thousands of small vermin,
took refuge under our tents; and under myself crept a beetle, and
a toad under the head of my companion. Finding ourselves so much
the worse for the rain, we determined upon returning to Tangier,
and to abandon our intended visit to Arzilla, and the wedding. The
road we took presented scenery more beautiful than the other. We saw
the encampment of the Bedouins, who used to conduct the pilgrims to
Mecca: they now go by sea to Egypt. Could I not make these people
of service to me? The soldier who came from the _dawárét_,[20]
to collect the money for the feast, has returned. We got off
before light, and crossed one river, although we had some doubts
of being able to get over; at the second, our horses were nearly
swimming. I was much wetted, as my legs were too long. The weather,
however, cleared up as we proceeded; and when we reached Tangier,
at half-past three, a good dinner and a bottle of sherry, under
the hospitable roof of our kind friend, brought us all round again,
after an excursion of three days spent very pleasantly.
Wednesday, Dec. 9.—Therm. 54°. Day very fine. Walked with Mr. Hay
by the Wád Bú Bárah, called also Jews’-river, along the ruins
of the aqueduct, called El Kanṭarah, and by the bridge up to Mount
Washington. The road lay through a stiff clay, containing a large
quantity of iron, of an ore-like[21] incrustation. The house and
garden at Mount Washington must have been at one time very beautiful;
but the house is now a sad ruin, and the garden is overrun with
weeds. We returned home through the worst road I ever essayed.
Thursday, Dec. 10.—A lovely day. The weather seems to have become
settled again. Therm. 51°.
Friday, Dec. 11.—The air cold, but clear. Therm. 47°. The
Rífman, whose gun, he said, would kill a Christian, even if he
were in heaven, brought a white _zulham_ for six dollars, and a
Rífí gun for eight and a-half dollars. Walked out to the Moorish
burial-ground to see the women. They have a strange custom here of
putting two circular pieces of red leather, dotted with black spots,
upon each cheek. It produces, however, not a bad effect. The present
is the period for Moorish weddings. A Moorish lady of the highest
class never leaves her house for twelve months after her marriage;
those of the middling not till six months; and even those of the
lowest confine themselves for three months. The Jewess never leaves
the sleeping-room for a week, and then only to dine with the family:
she keeps the house for three months.
Saturday, Dec. 12.—Therm. 50°. The wind east, and with signs of
rain. I am getting tired of stopping. On Monday, it will be four
weeks since I sent my letter to the Sulṭán. I do not feel very
well myself, but my patient is better. We had a Moorish concert
in the evening; it was a sad noise, but very characteristic of the
people. At night there was a heavy storm.
Sunday, Dec. 13.—Therm. 48°. Went to church at the
consul’s. Received an answer from the Sulṭán. It was accompanied
by one to El Hájj Es-sídí, the governor, who was required to
send me forward on my journey with all marks of respect; to apprize
the other governors and káïds that they were to receive me with
all respect and hospitality; to furnish an escort of ten horsemen,
under the command of a káïd, for whom he had sent money; that the
escort was to be under my orders, and to take care that my wishes
were complied with; that I was to take my own time, and that every
thing was to be done to my satisfaction.
Monday, Dec. 14.—Therm. 50°. Heavy rains, with but little chance
of clearing up.
Tuesday, Dec. 15.—Therm. 56°. Continued rain and high wind. No
boat would venture out. Had a patient with bad eyes.
Wednesday, Dec. 16.—Therm. 56°. Still wet. My hand again in my
pocket to pay the Sulṭán’s escort. Mr. Hay has promised me his
tent, and his son and Mr. Crusentolphe accompany me to Rabáṭ. Heavy
gale, and a boat from Gibraltar lost; crew saved.
Thursday, Dec. 17.—Therm. 50°. Clearing up a little. The new
Sardinian consul has arrived; lots of saluting; the Moors did it quite
as well as the little cutter that brought his Excellency. Went out
and pitched the marquee. It will do, but it is no great things. Saw
the father of the porters: his sons carry burthens, his daughters
men.[22] The blue-eyed one appears before the governor once an hour,
or she would charge him with her destruction. I am now preparing to
start in good earnest, although I do not feel very well.
Friday, Dec. 18.—Therm. 50°. The rain has passed off. A young
chevalier, who came with the new Sardinian consul, is anxious to join
our party. I shall endeavour to avoid this, as our tent is small,
and my wish is to make as little show, and to incur as small expense
as possible.
Saturday, Dec. 19.—Therm. 50°. The rain still holds off, as the
wind is veering to the north. Visited the castle: the rooms are a
good specimen of the Saracenic style of architecture. Rain again at
one P.M. The chevalier I find to be a very intelligent person. It
will be a hard matter to refuse him; besides, he might be of some
service to me at his own court. But though I am much pleased with him,
I have determined to say no.
Sunday, Dec. 20.—Therm. 50°. More rain has fallen during the night
than we have yet had. There is little chance of getting the mules
from Tetuan, and no sign of a boat from Gibraltar. Went to church;
perhaps for the last time for some period.
Monday, Dec. 21.—The rain still tremendous. The weather is
becoming colder. Therm. 48°. The whole appearance of the day
unfavourable. Went to see some serpent-eaters and charmers. The
reptiles are very fine; they neither eat[23] nor are they eaten. This
was the first night of Ramadan.
Tuesday, Dec. 22.—Therm. 47°. Weather beautiful, sky clear,
and air cold. Waiting in great anxiety for Cohen and the mules from
Tetuan. Saw a Jewish wedding. The poor bride was painted up to her
eyes, which she kept closed, as she was led through the streets with
torches and screams to the house of her husband.
Wednesday, Dec. 23.—Therm. 40°. The air very cold. At length I paid
the káïd a visit: he was very civil. I then went to the castle, and
procured three shields and two helmets, which I packed up, together
with the guns.[24] Ordered the escort to be ready for starting
to-morrow. Received a letter from Cohen, stating that he should leave
Tetuan on this day, while we are to be off to-morrow. How provoking?
Thursday, Dec. 24.—Therm. 40°. Up at six. All ready; but
no mules. I heard, however, that they would be here at ten
A.M. To-morrow, then, must be the day. It will be, indeed, a good
Friday.
Friday, Dec. 25.—Christmas-day. I had hoped to be at Tumbuktú
by this time; and I am now only beginning my journey. Even now,
the mules cannot be got ready. _Nunquam meus_. The weather
very beautiful. Therm. 50°. Made all my arrangements. Advanced
seventy dollars to the muleteers; gave Cohen twenty dollars on
account. Attended the service at the English consul’s: an excellent
sermon. All very agreeable; and we are to start to-morrow at nine
A.M. Many of the consular corps are to accompany us.
Saturday, Dec. 26.—Up early. The morning cloudy. Therm. 50°. After
much delay and wrangling, first with one káïd and then another,
and declining the honours of the grand _Hajj_[25] _As-sídí_, we
got fairly off, after taking leave of our most hospitable friend. I
had carved my name on Mrs. Hay’s tree, and the young ladies are
to plant one to-day. At ten P.M. we started. My _cortège_ consisted
of the káïd and the soldiers, together with the different European
consuls and their suites; in all thirty persons. We went the same road
as from El Autsét. At twelve they all left but Mr. and Miss Hay. At
half-past one we halted for our baggage, and then they too left us. We
reached ’Aïn Dáliyha (the well of grapes) at two P.M., where we
encamped for the night: a poor day’s journey of not more than ten
miles. Our course was S.S.E. The road was very heavy. Our encampment
appeared very picturesque, with the four tents, thirty animals, and
the same number of men, Moors, Jews, and Christians. At Tagnánt my
_monnah_ came, consisting of two sheep, a large calf, eighteen fowls,
three hundred eggs, two pounds of butter, four _ardebs_[26] of barley,
and four men’s-loads of kuskasù; all of which, excepting the calf,
which I ordered to be sent back, was devoured. I am happy to hear
that the káïd is anxious to reach Morocco before the end of the
Ramadán. When I sent back the calf, the Sheïkh came and brought
with him a jug of cow’s milk, saying that he was only obeying his
master’s orders, to ask if I was satisfied. The country presented
the same features as we found in the journey to El Autsét. We met
with ice, and crowds of men and jackals. Our position was a fine one,
just above a village, containing about two hundred inhabitants. The
snow was on the lesser Atlas. At one spot we saw the two seas.
Sunday, Dec. 27.—Therm. 47°. The weather rather cold. After much
quarrelling with the muleteers, whom I have been obliged to threaten,
we got off at half-past eight. We crossed the Maharah at half-past
nine, and passing through Meshra’ el Howeïd, arrived at the site of
some extensive ruins, where we discovered a perfect amphitheatre.[27]
From this spot, which we reached at half-past twelve, we proceeded
to our halt for the day at two P.M., at Hádd el Charbí Arbea (the
western limit). Our _monnah_ soon began to make its appearance; it
consisted of two sheep, a large steer, eighteen fowls, one hundred
eggs, two jars of butter, milk, barley, and straw. As this is the
allowance for five persons, it will give you some idea of their
appetites; for the soldiers have three _monnah_ of kuskasú in
addition. I have two men with me, who can each eat a sheep. The
káïd came out to meet us. The night was very cold.
Monday, Dec. 28.—Therm. 47°. Tried to get off early; but found it
impossible to do so. I passed but a bad night. We started at eight
A.M. Traversed a country more varied than before. Passed through
several villages, to which gardens were attached; the Valley of
Myrtles Fahs-arríhán, and after crossing the _grinding-river_,
(Wád el ’Áyéshah[28]) between the two mills on its banks,
we halted at one P.M. Had the luxury of a good bath, which has
refreshed us more than all the sleep. I have determined to be off
early to-morrow, in order to reach El ’Aráïsh (Fahs-arrihan) by
mid-day, and see the town. Our _monnah_ to-day consisted of a cow,
two sheep, twelve fowls, two hundred eggs, some oranges, and flowers,
barley, straw, and kuskasú. The view here is very fine. The dawár
is called Ammah. The Sheïkh came down and pitched his tent. We
were surrounded by a guard of Arabs, and had a party attached to us,
making up six tents.
Tuesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 47°. Heard from Cohen of a load
of kuskasú, which required four men to carry it. Many of the
soldiers ill, in consequence of their fasting and feasting during
the Ramadán.[29] After much squabbling, we got off by seven A.M. Our
road was much more varied and beautiful. We traversed the large forest
of Sáhel, which took up nearly three hours. The principal trees are
the cork, the locust, and oleanders. We met with many traces of the
wild-boar. We found likewise the gum cistus, and the kars, a pretty
blue flower. At half-past ten we came in sight of El ’Aráïsh,
which, at this distance, looks very beautiful; the river Ulkos
was seen winding with a majestic sweep. About mid-day we arrived
at the ferry. Here we saw two of the Sulṭán’s brigs of war,
and the place where the Austrians landed. After some delay we got
across, and went to our wretched abode: it was quite horrible. After
bathing we visited the governor, who played the great man; and,
after keeping us waiting some time, requested us to return in an
hour, when he should have come back from the mosque. He gave us an
escort of a portion of three soldiers to accompany us through the
town; which is more than in ruins. Its population is not above four
thousand. Most of the people have an African tinge. We visited the
gardens, and the market (which is rather a good one), and inspected
the fortifications, a part of which is very fine; we saw likewise
the Christian burial-ground. We then returned to the governor’s;
but as he felt disposed to keep us standing, we agreed to leave
him without making the visit of ceremony. We then sent Cohen with
a message, which brought a very submissive answer, and a hope that
we could come to-morrow. Our _monnah_ was very poor; and the káïd
sent back to say that it was not half of what it ought to be. This
remonstrance produced us additional sheep and fowls, and some wax
candles; but we could get nothing to eat. During the evening, a poor
fellow, half-Jew, half-Catholic, came to crave our protection. He
and Cohen, who had taken a drop too much, had been quarrelling, and
the latter had been to the governor; who, to curry favour with us,
intends to punish the poor fellow. Our door was almost forced by
the soldiers. We came to high words; and we have sent one of them
to prison, and are determined to complain to-morrow. My mule having
broken down, I was compelled to change her.
Wednesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 50°. Up early. Paid a visit to
Torredano, who had a large breakfast party. After consulting me
about his wife and sister, I gave him a prescription. We then rode
to the governor’s. Great coolness on both sides. I was, however,
determined to enforce my right. This little _fracas_ has done some
good. As I have begun, I will go on. We passed through a very fine
country. The road was good, and the land well cultivated. We encamped
at half-past two, at a large dawár on the plains of Águila, through
which the river Sewír flows. It is inhabited by the powerful tribe
of the Oudaia, who rebelled against the Sulṭán at Fez. They are
principally black. Our _monnah_ came late, and by driblets. Six
black fowls, one hundred eggs, some bread made of the _bishnah_,
which is a small seed resembling carraway. The road hitherto was
covered with large quantities of _el kelakh_, a plant resembling
fennel, from which the gum ammoniacum is extracted. We then came
upon the extensive plains of Ma’mórah, which were covered with
immense herds of cattle. The Arab encampments here change their roving
character, and appear more like fixed habitations. After some time,
we received two sheep, twelve more fowls, four mule-loads of barley,
and four men’s-loads of kuskasú. The night was excessively cold.
Thursday, Dec. 31.—Therm. 38°, and has been down to
freezing-point. The ground is covered with hoar frost, and some ice
has been found in one of our pails. We were up at five A.M., but
did not get off till seven. Our road lay along the coast, and was
very dull. The sea is here kept out by sand-hills. At ten A.M. we
came to four fine _kubbahs_, buried almost in the sand. They are
called the tombs of Múléï ’Abd-es-salám. On the north side
is an arm of the sea, called Zirgah: on the opposite bank are
two more _kubbahs_. We got well across the ford; but our baggage
mules falling into a quick-sand, our things were all wetted, and
we were obliged to dismount the soldiers, and to send their horses
to bring over the baggage. We passed a lake with a winding head:
on it were innumerable water-fowls, of which we could not learn
the exact name. We then pushed on, after the sun had gone down,
and arrived at a large encampment of one hundred Arab tents. As our
black conductor, who came from El ’Aráïsh, had not ordered our
_monnah_, some squabbling arose as to who was the Sheïkh. That point
being settled, he gave us a mat, and told us we were welcome. There
then arose another question, as to whether they would give us the
mat from the mosque. The place is called Reïyah; and the tribe,
Aulád el Bergal, looked horrid.
Friday, Jan. 1, 1836.—Up early, and saw the sun rise; a most
beautiful sight. Called for the schoolmaster, and gave him ten
ounces. I had lost a day;[30] but this was beginning the year
well. Received the blessings of these people, and took with us a
remembrance of them in a host of vermin. Our _monnah_ had been small;
but for this a very reasonable apology was given. Therm. 50°. Off at
half-past seven, and at twelve reached the river Sebú, on our way
to Mehedíyah. We bought some _shibbel_, which we saw caught. It is
a finer fish than our salmon, and is sold at about 1d. per lb. We
likewise saw here the _bishnah_ seed, of which the bread of the
country is made. We found it a sad job to cross the river; and a
tremendous storm of rain came on, which nearly wetted us through. We
were received on the opposite bank by the káïd of Mehedíyah,
who took us a ride to his gardens from whence there is a beautiful
view, while a room was preparing in his house to receive us. The
place is a miserable one, although it presents some remains of its
former grandeur: the gateway in particular is very beautiful. The
káïd of the place gave us some of his soup, and a dish of mutton
and limes. Our káïd had sent in the Sulṭán’s letter; but as
the other refused the _monnah_ for the soldiers and muleteers, I
would not receive mine; which caused a little disagreement. I hear
that six hundred horse are to accompany me from Rabát: but this
I doubt. We saw a good deal of colocynth growing by the road. The
káïd here is a superior man; he showed us great hospitality and no
little civility; but would not yield a jot on the point of the demand
made by our káïd, who had not his order with him. He exhibited
the character of the Moor in perfection. No sooner had he done all
this, than, in our hearing, he pronounced the Súraṭ el Nás.[31]
There was a little grumbling, as both men and animals were without
food. Our káïd says, he is like a man who has lost his head.
Saturday, Jan. 2.—Therm. 50°. Symptoms of rain. The káïd
still civil, but very firm. He gave us an escort of fifteen foot
soldiers, armed with guns. The pass through which our road lay was
most beautiful. There were three fine lakes, with two palm trees. On
a circular hill there was a _kubbah_; and on each side the sloping
hills were covered with different shrubs. The whole scenery was very
picturesque. On the road there was much traffic, and we again heard
of the soldiers who were to accompany us. We saw the town, and the
Sma’[32] (Sauma’ah) of the mosque of Hasan. At about one mile from
the city, we made a halt at a grand aqueduct, to enable the baggage
to come up. We passed outside the walls of Sallee, a fine large place,
once the terror of the Mediterranean, but now in ruins: its walls are
still imposing, and the gate beautiful. We then arrived at the river
which separates Salé from Rabáṭ, and crossed it, at three P.M.,
with much greater ease and comfort than we did the last one. Here
again we had some trouble from the non-arrival of our letters. We
found, however, Ben Braham, the British agent, waiting to receive us,
and to conduct us to his house, where we took up our quarters.
Sunday, Jan. 3.—Therm. 50°. Morning fine. The view from our
window beautiful. We went to the _sók_,[33] where we saw the
finest piece of acting I ever witnessed. The performers were two
_improvisatori_ from Sús. Their action was so well suited to the
subject, that I could understand them perfectly. Their dresses were
purely the old Roman; and such ease and power I never beheld. They
began by one charging the other with having tricked him in the
sale of a camel; for this he would have him judged; he cursed
his five senses, and appealed to Heaven; and then, by a series of
expressive gestures and magnificent language, he extolled the good
and cursed the bad. Being much delighted, we threw him some three
or four ounces. This substantial proof of our approbation had a
powerful effect in quickening his imagination; but in exciting the
feelings of the one, it damped somewhat those of the other; and
after the former had launched forth in praise of the Christians,
the latter sung the praises of the Sulṭán and the beauty of the
mosques, finishing with some verses that induced us to open our
purse-strings wider. We then left them for the bázár, where we
found much business going on. The streets were wider, the people
better-looking and happier, than we had seen elsewhere. There were
many fine mosques, and numerous _kubbah_. We proceeded then to the
governor’s and administrador’s. The former was a great beast. We
told him we would not stand, and he then got chairs for us. He was
at first disposed to be sulky; but our káïd told him it would
not do with me. He then stated, that we must wait till Tuesday;
as he supposed I should like a little rest, and hoped I should be
pleased with the city; that he would then collect from four to five
hundred horse, to start at any time I might appoint; but when I asked
to go to Shellah, I was told there was a prohibition against it. We
then went to Isma’íl Es-sumbul, who gave us a splendid luncheon
and some excellent wine, accompanied by many offers of civility. We
now begin to find that we are state-prisoners. There is a soldier
on the landing-place, another at the door, and three billeted in the
house. We are asked where we want to go, as it is necessary to obtain
the governor’s permission previously. We went to the Millah,[34] to
see the Jews’ quarters. There are some fine houses, and beautiful
women. The soldiers would not, however, allow us to go outside the
walls, although we were at the very gates. We came home, dined, read
the English service, and entered upon some discussions on religious
questions. Abú has been sent for by the governor, who made him a
small present of tea and sugar. During the day I had several patients
with maladies, some real, some imaginary. Accompanied Mr. John Hay
to see a very pretty Jewess, for whom he had brought forty ducats,
paid for a breach of promise of marriage. From all I hear of the man,
a very fine and good girl has had a lucky escape.
Monday, Jan. 4.—Therm. 56°. Very fine. Up early, and went to
Salé, to see the administrador. Few Christians now visit this place,
although many have been there, whose hard fate made them its forced
inhabitants. Salé is a large town, but thinly peopled. The house of
the administrador is a very good one. He gave us tea, &c. I had a long
consultation about seeing a child of a friend of his. From thence I
went to the Millah, where I found lots of patients. The principal
prescription required of me was something to cure barrenness, and
to ensure a large family. Returned to Rabát, and began arrangements
for prosecuting my journey. The muleteers were very sorry for their
behaviour; but I have turned them off, and I shall now be better
served. Troops are collecting through the fear of the Zairi, who
are close to the town in great numbers. They extend to Enzileh dhé
Bú Sinákah. We shall have a fine lot of troops, and I hope equal
lots of fun. The _monnah_ was sent as usual; sheep, fowls, beef,
eggs, bread, fruit, &c., and candles. I am, however, getting tired
of this, as I find that the _monnah_ is an inducement to spin out
the time of travelling. In spite of all I can do or say, my room
is filled with patients. I have taken care, however, to employ all
my hands in compounding medicines. My host, Samuel Ben Dilac, is
suffering from a rupture and hydrocele. Most of the people have some
disorder in the eyes. I am stuffed with food; and I cannot lift up my
hand without being asked the reason for doing so. Some of Abú’s
countrymen came with a present of fowls, to ask his blessing. The
people here cannot make us out. I rather expect a breeze to-morrow;
but it will be seen that I am not to be daunted. I have ordered a
saddle and bridle, and hope to be off early to-morrow.
Tuesday, Jan. 5.—Therm. 56°. Morning fine. Began the
arrangements for the mules at half-past four A.M., but could not
get off till nearly nine. Our cavalcade consisted of Mr. John Hay,
Mr. Crusentholpe, the British agent, my discarded muleteers, the
káïd and his ten soldiers, and about ten of the governor’s;
one of whom galloped off to say that I had started. Many a pretty
face was peeping through the narrow windows and cracked doors. We
met the governor, and exchanged compliments at the end of the
grand street. He preceded myself out of the city, to a place where
about two hundred cavalry were drawn up, and formed a line through
which we rode. The beauty of the Barb horses, and the rich Moorish
dresses, presented a sight pleasing and picturesque to the eye
of an European. When we had reached about the centre of the line,
the leading squadron halted, and made an open space through which
we rode, while about thirty, galloping up on each side, formed the
wings. In this order we continued along the side of an aqueduct,
till we reached the house of the Sulṭán; here the aqueduct crossed
the road, but continued visible for many miles. At the distance of
a two-hours’ march from the city, the governor and my friends
took their leave, and I was put under the care of two káïds,
one of whom was to conduct me to the governor of the district, and
the other to take me to the Sulṭán’s son. I here began this
portion of my journey under the most favourable circumstances. The
whole party halted if I stopped; and two soldiers were ordered to
attend upon Abú, some of whose countrymen were amongst the troops
of the escort, and came to receive his blessing. He, poor fellow,
is more helpless than ever. At noon the party took up an offensive
position. We closed our front, then sent out scouts, and then a
signal was made on the right wing; and after much noise and confusion
we captured one of the Zairi, whose rebellion had made the escort
necessary. The fellow was found concealed in the bushes. No sooner
was he taken, than he made a sign to the Audaya’ that he had been
seized by the people of Rabáṭ, and claimed the protection of
his own tribe. A signal was made, and the Audaya’ separated from
the party. Others taking their place began to prepare their guns
for action. I was highly delighted with the bustle of the scene,
and hoped to see something of a fight; but my káïd rode into the
midst of them, and, after appealing to me, and asking what account I
should give to the Sulṭán, allayed the rising spirit of quarrel,
to my great disappointment. We met a celebrated saint on horseback,
followed by sixty people. All stopped to ask his blessing, and even
I came in for the performance of a similar act. With two saints in
company we picked up Hasan and some women on the road; and I was
now told that the escort sent with me to-day was all a humbug. A
little after one, while rounding a beautiful bay, upon one side of
which we saw about two hundred cavalry drawn up,[35] we met a caravan
going to Rabáṭ. The change of escort was beautiful. I rode up to
the commander of the troops on the hill, who had his banner flying,
and gave and received the usual compliments. He tried to humbug me by
saying that he had come on purpose to add about sixty to our escort,
as I was a friend of the Sulṭán’s. After giving some private
directions to my káïd I took leave; but I was scarcely a mile off,
when two horsemen came galloping up to ask me for a small present,
just to wash the governor’s clothes.[36] I gave them two dollars;
but I was disgusted with the man, although he certainly drew up his
troops in a ring, and made them cry out for the Sulṭán. We then
crossed a small stream. The country is diversified with low and
beautiful shrubs. On all the heights around troops were stationed,
who constantly relieved our escort. We next arrived at a river, the
Sherádi,[37] which we forded. Two blackguards, however, demanded a
toll for each biped and quadruped, but me and mine. There was here
a large dawár, where we changed entirely our escort, taking the
troops of the Audaya’—a change much for the worse. Our road lay
along the coast until we halted, at half-past five, at a large dawar,
of which I could not learn the name. Our encampment formed a pretty
picture. My own marquee was first pitched; on the right of it the
káïd’s, on the left those of the soldiers, in front Hasan’s
black tent, and in the rear the large tent of the muleteers, with
the baggage and the animals, forming a circle. The camels and caravan
were put in the inside of the dawar. One of the soldiers rode down a
leveret, and picking it up with his gun, brought it to me alive. It
was my intention to have fasted, but as this would have hurt the
feelings of the donor, I had it cooked. A _monnah_ was brought,
with an apology for its being so small; the poor fellows stating
that they had been driven from their homes. This was the first day
in which I felt somewhat lonely.
Wednesday, Jan. 6.—Therm. 50°, with symptoms of rain. We found many
traces of the wild boar. The road was covered with _durú_, which has
replaced the _kelakh_, now becoming more rare. We started a wolf. We
were hardly well on the road when it began to pour torrents of rain,
which lasted for three hours. All our things were soaked through and
through. We passed over two streams, along a large causeway, through
the ruins of Mansoríyah[38] and the town of Feḍáh, where a road
turns off for Morocco, and continued our route to Dár el Beïḍá
(the white house), where we pitched our tents outside the town, at the
recommendation of our káïd. No sooner, however, were our tents up,
than I was summoned to visit the prince, who compelled us to strike
the tents and to come into the town for our better protection, owing
to the unsafe state of the country. He pointed out a spot opposite
the palace. Múléï Hámed,[39] the son of the Emperor of Morocco,
is a poor puny boy. I was received with all the honours. The guard
was picked and well mounted. Abú was sent for, and our _monnah_
was extravagant: it included a camel. I felt rather the worse for
the wetting.
Thursday, Jan. 6.—Therm. 45°. Late in getting off. We left this
ruin of a town, and part of our _monnah_, which the soldiers had
sold. We passed through a level and uninteresting country, till eleven
A.M., when we halted for a few minutes on a most beautiful plot of
ground, carpeted with wild flowers. We then entered a large forest of
_durú_; and then halted a second time at an old well of bad water,
full of small tortoises. We continued our route through the wood,
but finding we could not reach our station before dark, we took up our
quarters for the night amongst some Arab tents placed as a guard. As
we had nothing to eat, both men and cattle were compelled to keep
Ramaḍán. The whole party sulky, and out of spirits. I sent some
soldiers to levy contributions on the neighbourhood. A mysterious
lady was here riding an immense camel; I could not, however, get a
peep at her face. At this place we saw a camel and an ox harnessed to
the same plough. Finding persuasions of no avail, I tried another
tack, and tied up six of the poor Arabs, to force them to tell
where they kept their barley. We got a little for the horses and
mules. My soldiers will not pitch their tents, having to keep guard
all night. There appear some symptoms of a quarrel. Our encampment
was curious, but the situation beautiful. Several Jewish families
are claiming my protection, and all sleep is out of the question.
Friday, Jan. 7.—Therm. 50°. All my people grumbling, and
the soldiers very ill. The rain came down in torrents, and at
two A.M. found its way through the tents. My misery commenced
at four. My great object was to keep myself dry, and to save my
_zulham_ and carpet. We did not get off till seven: it was too dark
to proceed earlier. Passed through a wooded country similar to that
of yesterday. At half-past nine a hurricane came on from the sea,
which nearly blew our mules over. We were obliged to get under
the bushes for shelter. We were all wetted to the skin. At eleven
A.M. it cleared up, when we came upon an immense extent of ruins and
a burial-ground, that took us half an hour to pass through. There
were the tombs of seven sheikhs, two of which were very beautiful. At
half-past twelve we saw Azamór in the distance, and soon arrived
at the river Omm rabí’ (the mother of herbage). The stream was
running very fast, and was nearly as wide as the Thames at London. It
was highly coloured with red earth, and abounds with _shibbel_. After
some time we contrived to cross it. No sooner was I fairly landed
on the opposite bank, than I was pestered to death to go up to the
governor’s; but, being in a sulky humour, doggedly refused. Rode
round the town, which, externally, is rather pretty, but within, the
dirtiest place I have ever seen. This, I understand, arises from the
immense number of cattle kept in the neighbourhood, all of which are
driven into the streets of the city at night, and a perfect Augean
stable they make of it. The governor was for squeezing presents out
of me. I was very cool. He began by the usual compliments, and stated
that he had given directions for the encampment. I told him that I
expected a house. This he then offered; but I determined to encamp
outside the town. The soldier who went for the baggage has called
for a present. This I refused, and sent a message to the governor,
to say that I have been badly received, and shall mention this to
the Sulṭán. Upon hearing this, the governor sent for Cohen in a
great hurry. I am determined to have my way, and if Cohen plays his
cards well he may gain a bribe. He returned with an immense _monnah_
of sheep, fowls, eggs, butter, sugar, sweetmeats, candles, &c. The
surprise of these people that a Christian can do what I have done
for Abú exceeds all conception.[40] The governor wishes me to remain
here to-morrow; after which he is going up and will accompany me to
Morocco. We are all knocked up, and I must therefore consent. The tent
is wet through and through, and my situation miserable in the extreme.
Saturday, Jan. 8.—Therm. 51°. Learned the difference between a
wretched and comfortable night. The morning beautiful, with every
sign of a fine day. Busy in drying our things. Went to see the
governor in the sainted suburb, which is quite another place from the
city. Here is the _kubbah_ or záwiyah of the famed Sídi Múléï
Abú Shu’eïb.[41] The governor improves upon acquaintance. Four
Europeans came to pay a visit while I was there: luckily they are
not Englishmen, although one is the English agent. All took off
their boots and shoes, and one beast crawled on his knees to kiss
the káïd’s hands. It is such humiliating conduct that lowers us
in the eyes of this people. Had I seen Mr. Garcia take off his hat,
I should have remonstrated with him. Cohen tells me that he did
so. I would have a chair, and I moved my hat both on entering and
leaving. The governor asked me to go and see his son, who was very
ill, and far advanced in a dropsy. I ordered him some medicine,
but it will be of little use, as I cannot stop to attend to him,
and the people here are not to be trusted with two doses of any thing
[for fear, it would seem, of their giving both at once]. The gardens
are beautiful, and there is a good deal of manual labour expended
on their cultivation. I kept myself confined to my tent for two
hours, before I could get the people to send for the medicine I had
prescribed for a man who was nearly dying. The governor received a
visit from Mr. Garcia, Hámed and two other Nasáras, together with
one Don Pedro, the principal merchant at Mazagan. Therm. in the sun
stood at 70°, and at one P.M. touched upon 80°. The governor has
sent to know at what time I should like to start to-morrow, and the
four Europeans want me to come round by Mazagan. The history of the
governor’s life is a curious one. He was originally a fisherman
on the Umm rabí’, and can neither read nor write. Before the
Sulṭán came to the throne he was in great distress for a small
sum of money. The fisherman possessed the finest horse in the
country: this he sold, and carried the money to ’Abd-er-rahmán
Ben Háshem, and thus relieved him from his difficulties. No
sooner was he Sulṭán of Morocco than he made the fisherman
governor of Azamór; and the latter has continued ever since a
great favourite. He is very rich, and greatly beloved. Azamór,
possessing the sacred _fauxbourg_ with the tombs of Múléï Bú
Shú’eïb, swarms with impostors in the shape of saints, fakírs,
&c. I received a visit from one of these fellows, who said that he
came to see his son, and brought with him a handful of bad dates;
but I soon sent him off. This, however, did not prevent a swarm
of them from pestering me. But I bade my soldiers tell them that I
would give them nothing: they could and should work, or go to those
who believed in them. The school-boys next came with their boards:
to these I gave a few ounces, and begged to be left alone. Patients
then, out of number, with diseases that were never heard of, next
besieged my quarters; these were followed by the ladies, the hardest
of all to satisfy. The rear was brought up by the minstrels, whose
music was as noisy as their words were nonsensical. Tired of Azamór,
I could have performed the journey to Morocco on foot in three days;
but I had twenty-seven animals and thirty people to feed, and one
can stop only where provisions are to be found. To these must be
added the governor’s party, which, men and beasts together,
exceeded two hundred head. To-morrow we enter the province of
Dukkálah. Towards night-fall there was a great squabble outside
the tent, and I was obliged to go to Cohen’s rescue. The káïd
of Azamór wished me to take a present, consisting of fowls, sugar,
and wax-candles, for my attendance on his son: this my káïd and
soldiers said would be deducted from their _monnah_. Upon this there
arose a good deal of contention. As the _monnah_ was for myself alone,
I find I have done wrong in giving them any of it, for they now claim
the whole. I will be a match for them yet. There has been already a
great deal of chaffing about the sale of a sheep-skin this morning,
which fetched seven-pence, and the soldiers could not agree about
the division of the money. Through the fear of being devoured by the
dogs, that are more fierce and numerous here than in any other place,
I packed up again, hoping to start by day-break; and though I do not
like travelling on a Sunday, any thing is better than remaining here.
Sunday, Jan. 9.—Therm. 47°. The weather cold. Tried hard to get
off before the Mazazan[42] party and the governor, but failed to do
so. I had got rid of the first, when a soldier of the governor came to
see why we were not _en route_. We found him on a hill that overlooks
Mazazan, with an escort of sixty horse, his camels and baggage having
gone before. We rode through his gardens, the soil of which was very
rich, and, after exchanging compliments, he took the lead. The road
there leaves the sea, and runs E.S.E. to Morocco. It was lined with
people desirous to shew respect to him; the women screaming, their
scarfs and kerchiefs tied to reeds by way of banners; the school-boys,
with their boards, and the saints seated along the side of the road;
a man riding by the side of the governor, distributing money. We
reached our place of encampment at two P.M., having been met by the
Sheïkh and some of his people from the _dawár_, at which we are to
stop. The encampment looked very beautiful. The governor’s tent,
with his red and green standard, and twenty other tents; mine with
four; and as fresh parties were continually arriving till it was
dark, the whole number could not have been less than from two to
three hundred. My own people are anxious not to continue with the
governor. I had a great row with them, and threatened to send them
off. They will, however, return to their senses, as they like the
_monnah_ and their ease; but to-night I have kept it all to myself,
and they have become very good. Read the evening service and 10th
chapter of the Acts. Received lots of patients, and a visit from
two of the descendants of the famed Múléï Bú Shú’eïb.
Monday, Jan. 10.—Therm. 50°. Signs of rain. Tried hard, but
failed to get off before the governor. Our caravan is now above three
hundred. The road was lined the same as yesterday. The soil was one of
great fertility. By a gradual ascent we entered Dukkálah, celebrated
for its breed of horses. Indeed both men and cattle are finer here
than in any other part of the empire. At 10 A.M. we saw Jebel Khadr,
rising from an almost boundless plain. At 11 we halted for a few
minutes at a lovely spot, where there were palm-trees and a spring
of water. We then, by a steep ascent, came upon a second plateau,
from which we had a magnificent view of Mount Atlas covered with
snow. We halted for the night at the mesallá of Bú’ Sanawerer,
who was a great saint. The wind was so high that we were in great
fear lest the tent should be carried away. The _monnah_ was very
late in coming, and I was obliged to turn story-teller to keep the
people in good humour, and afterwards threatened the Sheïkh of the
_dawár_. The weather cold.
Tuesday, Jan. 11.—Therm. 47°. At day-break I was surrounded by
patients, men, women, and children; compelled to use sticks to keep
them off. There was a large market in the open air. Could it be
believed that my party allowed the whole caravan to move off while
I was engaged with my patients. They lost their way in the immense
plain, which is within a few days’ journey of Morocco. I went
on to Gherando; from a village at the foot of which the governor
came out to meet the káïd of Azamór. Quantities of powder wasted,
and no little hallooing and screaming. We encamped outside the town;
here tea was sent with three different sets of china, fire, &c. &c.;
thin bread and butter; then hot victuals, and then the _monnah_. I
was never so sick of the sight of food. Received many patients;
amongst them the governor, who came early.
Wednesday, Jan. 12.—Therm. 50°. Up as soon as the moon rose, with
the view of getting to Suwaïníyah this evening. Dispatched two
soldiers to Morocco, to inform the Sulṭán of my arrival, and to
learn where I was to lodge. From four to seven tried in vain to get
off. It is plain that my káïd wants to make another day of it. To
prevent this, I started, and took my baggage mules, to spite them;
found I knocked myself up by walking very fast for four hours. I
have, however, frightened them, and we halted at Suwaïníyah, where
I looked at a fine aqueduct cut through a limestone rock, for which
the poor fellows got nothing. Water beautiful, but a little warm. We
reached Suwaïníyah about 5 P.M.; a large encampment was here before
us, and the káïd of Azamór had still to come up. We pitched our
tents near the aqueduct and tank, with some tents from Fez, and at
about 100 yards from the káïd of Azamór. The same immense plain
as the one mentioned before was covered with agates and jaspers;
there were no trees, but a great quantity of a strong shrub. I felt
a presentiment that something would happen; I therefore took down
my sword and looked at my pistols, and turned in early, although
not sleepy.
Thursday, Jan. 13.—Therm. 50°. I was right in my conjecture. At
half-past twelve, the soldier who rode the white horse, and whom I
had always suspected, gave an alarm of thieves. We got up in haste,
and a fellow called ’Abd el Kerím stated that he saw a man run
between them. We turned in again, and at four A.M. poor Abú came to
me and said that he had been robbed of his jacket, which he always
put under his head for a pillow, in the pocket of which was my gold
watch, which I had given him to carry for safety. The káïd, in
whose tent he had been sleeping as usual, could not account for the
loss, and all wanted me to start. This I refused, and stated that I
should wait till daybreak. I then dispatched all but three mules,
and determined to go to the káïd of Azamór; but as the people
assured me they had already told him, I started, leaving behind my
káïd, the soldier on the white horse, and ’Abd el Kerím. Another
káïd, who had the command of five soldiers, agreed with me in my
suspicions that all was not right. After an interval of two hours, up
came the remainder of the party with Abú’s jacket, but no watch in
it. They said they had found it near the tank, and my káïd asked,
with great effrontery, if I did not mean to let the matter drop,
as it was God’s will that I should lose the watch. I replied, by
bidding him come immediately to the káïd of Azamór, whom we had
overtaken, and told him he should answer for the loss with his head. I
then passed on, the fellow crying, and we shortly arrived at a fine
mountain pass, on issuing from which we had a view of Morocco. As
soon as we reached the date-grove, we found the Sulṭán and his
troops ready to receive us with all honours. We passed the Tensif by
el Kantarah, a bridge of eighteen arches, and stopped, according to
custom, to wash ourselves. I observed my káïd and ’Abd el Kerím
in company with the Rifman who had the charge of the mules. They
passed on without saying a word, when up came a soldier with a lad,
who had confessed to the robbery, and stated that he had concealed the
watch under the bridge. A pardon was promised him if he would point
out the spot; but when he was let go, I felt sure that he was not
the culprit, and sent after him. Upon his return, I told him that he
would lose his hand, and perhaps his head, and I requested the person
who was sent by the Sulṭán to bid me welcome and to conduct me
to his garden, to inquire of the lad where he had found the watch,
and what he had done with the waistcoat. The lad replied he never
saw the waistcoat. All of them, however, admitted that they had seen
Abú put the watch into the pocket of the waistcoat, and both under
his head, and that he had so slept during the whole journey. The boy
likewise added, he had put the watch into a tree, while ’Abd el
Kerím said, he found the waistcoat under the bridge. This convinced
me that the lad had nothing to do with the robbery, and I bade them
let the boy go, saying that he was not the thief. On this the blood
of the soldier rose up, and he muttered a threat. I told him I cared
nothing for his threats. They then charged him with having stolen
other things, and pretended to put him under confinement. I arrived
at the gardens of Múláï Músá at four P.M., after making the
circuit of the city, and was ushered into the ruins of a palace. I
was hardly off my mule, when the soldiers who accompanied me came
first to demand a present, then the káïd, who had conducted me,
and, lastly, the cleaners of the place I was to inhabit. The Sheïkh
of the Jews likewise made his appearance to receive orders for what
I wanted; and as I am unfortunately to live at the Sulṭan’s
expense, it will cost me about four times as much as if I had to
buy every thing. I continued to pay, however, till my pockets were
empty. In my way to this place I had passed the village of lepers,
and a sad sight it was. I then got rid of all the people, and laid
down on the still wet floor of my large room, and was soon asleep,
sadly disappointed with my first night at Morocco.
Friday, Jan. 14.—Here in the ruined palace of Múláï Músá,
situated in a garden on the south side of the city of Morocco,
but within the walls, am I a sort of state prisoner. My large
audience-chamber has two hutches in it, like the _cabouses_ of a
Dutch galiot; these are intended for sleeping places. I have, however,
taken up my quarters in the middle of the room, from which there is a
view of a large court-yard. The room has once been very splendid. It
is 38 feet by 17, and 30 high. The roof and sides were highly
ornamented. At the east end is the kiblah,[43] the Moorish arch,
and at the west a small chamber, but without any window, occupied
by Abú as a bed-room. In the centre of the court-yard, which is
about twice the size of the room, is an immense vase for water. On
each side of my room are large chambers, occupied by my two káïds
and soldiers, and a large kitchen, &c.; and at the corners are the
sleeping-places for the servants, forming a kind of _fanál_,[44]
from which run rooms overlooking the garden, which is now overgrown
with weeds. I saw there a great quantity of gold fish, a grove of
orange, date, and olive trees, a small mosque, and a splendid tank
well supplied with water, which, as it overflows, is carried through
the garden in channels that are bounded by trellised walks covered
with vines. Outside of the garden is a grand building with gates,
strong enough for a fortress. Got up early. Therm. 50°; the day
fine. Paid my soldiers. The poor fellow who had been charged with
the theft was brought out and bastinadoed. I received a visit from
a female saint, who was dressed in green, as being a relation of the
Sulṭán, and of an old family; she wanted and received a trifling
present. The soldiers have expressed themselves dissatisfied,
although I have paid them as much as the Sulṭán does. Wrote to
Mr. Hay, and received a visit from the Sheïkh of the Jews, who is
to provide for me, and the expense is to be deducted from their tax,
which is only 1,000 dollars a-year, paid according to the means
of the people. There are here about 5,000 Jews, exclusive of the
children, who are very numerous. I was visited by lots of patients;
among the rest was the court eunuch, and the son of Levi Yákoút,
the British agent; the former of whom was affected with a disorder
in his feet, and the latter in his eyes.
Saturday, Jan. 15. Therm. 51°.—Received a message from the
báshá of the district, to know if I was comfortable. Amongst the
visitors to-day were several saints, but they could not squeeze a
drop from me. Visited the Millah or Jew’s quarter; it was filthy
to a degree. Had far more patients than I could attend to. Returned
home, and got rid of the vermin I had picked up by way of fees. This
is a great day with the Moslems; it is the 27th of Ramadán, when
free license is given to men and women. Received a present of cold
food from Yákút, whose family I am attending. I had a long and
interesting conversation with him. It appears that I am the only
Christian in the place, with the exception of four French prisoners,
who have assumed the Moorish dress. I went to a large house in
the Millah, where I had a fine view of the city, with its palace,
mosques, and granaries. I have been pestered by more saints, and
my soldiers are quite horror-struck at the manner in which I treat
these impostors. Another disturbance amongst the soldiers about
the watch. Káïd ’Alí thinks I shall not be safe unless I take
some precautions; I have, therefore, placed his bed across my door,
which he requests may be securely fastened.
Sunday, Jan. 17.[45]—Therm. 51°. Cohen was sent for by the
minister before I was up. The interview was very satisfactory,
with great offers of kindness. I went again to the Millah to see
my patients. The lad who was said to be implicated in the theft was
brought again to be bastinadoed, but I prevented it, and threatened
to go to the minister. At this the soldiers were frightened, and,
after loading my pistols, I threatened to shoot any man who presumed
to come into my rooms. I then read the service of the day, and,
after making up my medicines, I received an order to visit the
minister. As soon as it was dark a guard was sent for me; when,
wrapped up in my _zulham_, I was led through the crowded bázár,
and after turning and turning again, that I might not know the way,
came to an enclosure, where several horsemen were waiting. I then
went from door to door, till at last I reached one strongly nailed
and barred, where my guide having knocked, a negro’s head popped
out, and after hearing the words el Hájí, whispers were exchanged,
and Cohen and myself were led up a dark passage. The four Moors to
whom the horses belonged were then let out, and the minister came
into the passage and ushered me into his room. Sídí Mohammed Ben
Alí is a middle-aged man, of low stature, and dirty in his dress;
his room was filled with papers. After bringing in a chair for me,
he seated himself in his alcove, with Cohen on his left. He then
ordered tea, and began to converse with great freedom, expressed
his pleasure at seeing me, assured me of the Sultán’s favour,
and begged I would command his best services. He questioned me on
all points of medicine and surgery, of which he knows something. He
referred to several medical works, and spoke of the practice of other
countries, and was much better informed than I expected. He asked
me to examine his two black women; for, said he, we take as great
care of our slaves as you have done of Abú. While we were with the
females, the clerk of the market came in and the ladies ran away,
and I was left with this porpoise for a patient; I remained about an
hour, during which I had continually tea, tea, tea. I was told that
the Sultán had given orders for me to see his palaces to-morrow,
and that he would see me himself if business permitted, and that I
was to be in readiness for the guard at seven A.M.
Monday, Jan. 18.—Therm. 46°. The weather very cold. I was
up early, to be ready for the visit. It was already past nine,
when the Lieut.-Governor of the Meshwá arrived, accompanied by
an escort of soldiers, with the Sultán’s orders to conduct me
to his palaces and gardens. The mules and horses were got ready,
and off went the cavalcade—poor Cohen on his ten toes—through
heaps of ruins. We passed the finest arch I have yet seen, and the
horse on which my _hader_[46] rides is the most splendid animal
I have yet met with. Arrived at the palace, I found court after
court filled with soldiers. The Sultán had stationed himself at
a window to see us as we passed. We dismounted at the house of the
minister, of the court jester, and of the commander of the forces,
and then mounted again, and proceeded by the lateral squares, which
were filled in like manner with soldiers, to the saluting battery,
where we saw guns of all shapes and sizes, but without carriages,
whose place was supplied by pieces of wood. We then visited several
kiosks, very beautifully painted, and afterwards the garden of[47]
[Blank]: from thence to Dar el Beidá, which is rather pretty, and
then to the new palace, which is the most tasteful of all. Our route
lay afterwards through a series of orange and olive groves to the
ruined palace of Múláï Músa with its immense tank, and we went out
at the gate, from whence we had a fine view of Mount Atlas. We then
proceeded along a covered walk of laris,[48] extending above half a
mile, and passing a fine aqueduct, entered a second walk formed of
a wood of dates, and a third of pine, which was at the back of the
palace, and from thence we returned home. After this I visited my
patients at the Millah, where I found a whole host of fresh ones,
ready to devour me. I received also a visit from the Hakím Bashi
(the chief physician), who came to examine me; but I posed the old
fellow by my long names and hard words. He had brought with him a
quantity of leaves of plants, of woods, &c. to ask me their names
and uses. I humbugged him considerably. He has promised to bring me
all their works on medicine and surgery, and, after saying a great
deal about my talents, &c. he seemed to expect a present; whereupon I
told him plainly that I would give him nothing. I suspect, however,
that I did him an injustice, for he asserted that he came merely
for information respecting one of his patients who is frightened
at his own danger. The most curious part of my practice is, that I
am compelled to taste my own medicines, to prove that they are not
poisons. Two of the Frenchmen who were taken at Telemsán called upon
me to state their case. They complained of their hardship, in being
duped to change their religion. I gave each of them a dollar; but I
cannot interfere in their behalf. I am to have an interview with the
Sultán as soon as the fast finishes. The small-pox has broken out in
the Millah, and I have been attending the sick until I am sick myself.
Tuesday, Jan. 19.—Therm. 50°. Not very well. My door is actually
besieged with patients. The father-in-law and the brother-in-law of
the Sultán, the Sherríf, all are ill, or fancy themselves so. The
son of the physician who visited me yesterday called to-day; by all
these I was detained at home till 4 P.M.; I then went to the Millah. I
find it is quite impossible to attend to all the patients; while I am
in one house the inmates of the whole street collect at the door. The
diseases that puzzle me most are disorders of the eye and sterility;
and scarcely less perplexing is the complaint of the Moorish men. I
must really shut up shop, or I shall be knocked up. In the evening
there was a deafening roar of guns, trumpets, &c., as the moon is
visible and the fast over. I suppose this will confine me at home
to-morrow, although I have promised to go early to the Millah, where
I have two very pretty but very troublesome patients. After to-morrow
I shall see the Sultán, and this will decide my future movements.
Wednesday, Jan. 20.—Therm. 51°. The house crowded with patients. I
am quite tired of my trade. The garden is swarming with soldiers, as
it is the first day of the feast. After dispensing medicines all the
morning, I went to the Millah, where I found lots of lady patients,
whose chief complaint was the want of children. Saw some very bad
cases, and returned home, where I was pestered till dark. Received
presents of cold fish. Feel not very well. Had a message from the
Sultán to say that I was to go to-morrow to see the city, upon one
of its grand market-days.
Thursday, Jan. 21.—Therm. 50°. It has been very cold during
the night. During the whole morning the house was crowded with
patients. At noon, El Hájí came to take me to the Sultán’s garden
in the city. Having first paid a visit to the Káïd of Azamór,
where there was a large party at tea and talk, I proceeded to the
garden of the Sultán, where I found the Minister, the chief Taleb,
the Clerk of the market, and the tenant of the gardens, Múláï
Ben Ali Ben Musúl, a great friend of the Sultán. Here I had to
take tea again, and was then asked to dine. The conversation was
entirely on medical subjects, and, as all said they were ill, I
had to prescribe for them all. I was then taken into the garden,
and asked if I could procure abortion, and how it was effected. I
told them it was death by the English law to make even the attempt,
at which they expressed their surprise. I was then asked, as I would
not eat, to continue my walk in the gardens, where I felt certain
the Sultán was [although I did not see him]. After he was gone, I
was shewn the ladies of all colours and ages, who were more pleased
with me than I with them. I was detained there till four P.M., when
I was told that the city gates were closed, as this was the day of
the great feast. I then went to the Jewry to visit my patients. In
the evening I received a message from the Sultán to say that all the
city would be closed on Sunday, but that I had permission to go when
and where I pleased, and that I should always take soldiers with me,
to command respect. I have been asked to visit the governor of the
Meshwá to-morrow, to see what was his complaint. Retired to rest,
quite done up, and unable to write any letters.
Friday, Jan. 22.—Therm. 51°. El Hájí came to take me to Kaid
Jelábí Ben Boaza, governor of the Meshwá. There was little the
matter with him, except that he felt cold in some parts of his
body and had bad eyes. His wife was in a very indifferent state of
health. I promised to make up some medicines, and received a present
of twenty fowls. Patients are increasing till I am ill myself. Went
to the Millah and found more people ill, and so am I. On my return
home, I was ordered to attend the minister this evening, but stated
I could not do so, and went to my carpet very unwell.
Saturday, Jan. 23.—Therm. 50°. Tried hard to write a few lines, but
found it impossible to do so. Passed a very bad night, and was obliged
to send away all my patients. Kept my carpet till two P.M. Went to the
Jewry to dine with the British agent; found all my patients worse. Had
a visit from Múláï Hijází, the court jester, who is the second
person in the empire; but I make no presents, and he gives no help
without them. Our dinner was a curiosity. A Jew must not light a
fire from Friday evening to Saturday evening; hence their whole food
for the Sabbath is put upon the fire and kept there for twenty-four
hours, a large quantity of fuel having been previously placed there
for that purpose. The dinner is rather curious than palateable. On
my return home received a message to go to Sídí Mohammed Ben Alí,
where I had tea, &c., and was questioned for two hours on medical
points, with the view of making a physician of him. I quite tired out
the Moorish doctor, whose _materia medica_ was a certificate,[49]
that Abú, had he been quick, might have copied out; but he has
become slower and slower. It took the Moorish doctor half an hour
to learn how to take two pills every other night. My hypochondriac
patient worries me to death, and I shall make an excuse and get away,
if possible, next week. I mean to go to the Kaïseríyah (bazar)
to-morrow, and shall afterwards lose no time in asking permission
to depart. I fear I have little chance of getting on by this route;
but I will bring matters to a crisis speedily.
Sunday, Jan. 24.—Therm. 47°. It feels rather cold. Patients out of
number; I was called out of bed to attend three: continued actively
engaged till half-past eleven P.M., when I began to sink, and was
obliged to order the door to be shut. Visited the Kaïseríyah; a
very poor thing: was sadly disappointed with the city. The Sultán
would hardly believe that I gave advice and medicine _gratis_. The
people here are very insolent. Went home and read the Bible. Visited
my patients in Jewry, where I found several new and bad cases. I fear
I shall lose one patient to-night, as I cannot obtain permission for
the gates of the Millah to be opened for me after dark. Returned home;
but did not get my meal in peace. Cohen was sent for by the minister,
who was surprised at my pieces of the Korán.[50] I mean to go to
the Moorish part of the town no more; have a great quantity of work
to do to-morrow.
Monday, Jan. 25.—Therm. 47°. Up at break of day to see my patients;
kept hard at work till half-past eleven A.M. Got my breakfast, and had
a visit from the minister. Went to see the Sultán’s father-in-law,
and then to the Millah; was so tired, that I determined to give up
all my patients. Cohen went in the evening to the minister.
Tuesday, Jan. 26.—Therm. 50°, and rising to 80° at noon. Up at
day-break again. Heartily sick of medicine, and threaten to throw
physic to the dogs and burn my chest. Received a message from the
Sultán, requesting me to go and see his friend the Báshá Ben
Ibráhím; found him with at least one hundred men; then to the
Sultán’s barber and bed-maker. After these, a Kaid came with twenty
people. He was the first person who wanted to pay me. Afterwards I saw
much of the city, the tomb of Sídí Ben ’Abbás with its green roof
and sides. The rats were crossing the road continually. The bashaw
had fallen from his horse three months ago, when he received some
bruises, for which he had been cupped and was covered with charms;
but I think my physic will do more than all. He spat upon his arm and
hand before I was allowed to touch him. Upon my making some inquiries
as to the state of his bowels, he was completely at loss; nor could
he understand what the stomach had to do with the pulse. I explained
to him that there was the same connexion between the heart and other
parts of the body, as there is between the root and branches of a
tree, and between the spring and the works of a watch. I am to see
him every day. I have been obliged to beg to be excused from waiting
on the minister, as I am quite knocked up and ill.
Wednesday, Jan. 27.—Therm. 54°. Evident symptoms of a change
of weather. I got up early to visit the bashaw; while I was out of
the room, he told Cohen that I should be well paid if I cured him,
and expressed no little surprise when he heard I would not take any
thing. Returned home, and received another message from the Sultán,
to go to see the Káid of Shragna. Feel very ill. I have now two
great out-door patients, and at home I found such a crowd that I
could hardly get into the house. Amongst the rest were four very
finely-dressed Moorish women, one of whom would conceal nothing. I
fear I cannot do much for them, and but little for the Jewesses, who
came in shoals. My stock of medicines is diminishing fast. Went in
the evening to the minister, by whom I was complimented highly. He
had seen Grenade and his son, who had come to witness the art and
mystery of compounding medicines. The minister told me I was to
go when and where I pleased. He requested also to know whether I
preferred riding on a mule or a horse, as his master wished to make
me a present. I told him that I had always found a mule the most
useful in my journey. I then offered to have the _Physician’s Vade
Mecum_ translated. He next asked me if I would settle at Marocco,
and proposed my bringing my wife and family there; said that the
Sultán would like me to remain for ten months; that I should go every
where, see every thing, and that I might have two months to return to
England. I replied that it was impossible for me to do so, as I was
to be absent from England eighteen months, six of which had already
elapsed, and the rest was to be devoted to further travelling. I then
went to the Káïd of Magodor. He was pumping me; so I gave him some
clear water and stopped him.[51] I find he is a bit of a diplomatist,
and has been set on to worm out my design in coming here. He talked
much of Mr. Willshire, so I must be on my guard.
Thursday, Jan. 28.—Therm. 54°. Up early to see my patients,
all of whom are doing well. Have been obliged to order my doors to
be closed. I cannot endure it any longer. I have not even time to
take refreshment, and my head too is overworked. Went to see Ben
Idris. There were four other persons there besides the minister;
neither the conversation nor inquiries could be put with propriety
on paper. My answers, however, were such as not to make them my
friends. Heard again from Mr. Willshire. I have some suspicions of
the Káïd of Mogador.
Friday, Jan. 29.—Therm. 57°. Up early to visit my patients. I
have quite won the bashaw’s heart. I had this morning to examine
all his ladies; Zara, Ayishah, Embrica, Henia, Mirima, Bettoula,
Iemola, &c. &c. They were more pleased than I was. They were of
all sizes, colours, and dresses. I was kept there two hours, and
was nearly sick and somewhat excited. There were above two hundred
of them. Went home and found there Káïd Músa; afterwards visited
Káïd Abdallah, from whom I heard much of the high favour I was in
with the Sultán. Went in the evening to see Káïd Jelábí, and on
my return home found poor Abú very ill, with symptoms of dysentery.
Saturday, Jan. 30.—Therm. 55°. Went early to Káïd Abdallah,
and thence to Káïd Músa, and then to El ’Arabí, while three
persons carried the medicines. Returned home, and found a message
from the palace. Dressed, and after a row with my Káïd, I went to
the Meshwá, and was then summoned to the palace. Passing through
court after court, I came into the presence of the Sultán, who was
seated in an arm-chair in the blazing sun. Approaching respectfully,
I tendered him my thanks for the kindness shewn to me. After making
some inquires about me, he requested me to feel his pulse; and he
then ordered his people to take me round his garden, after which I
was called back, and found that all his ladies were to be gratified
with a sight of us. During the promenade we met some slaves carrying
dishes along the shady side of the garden, that had been sent from
the Sultán; another with sweetmeats; others with flowers: and at the
gate there was a fine gold-coloured horse, the Sultán’s present
to myself, and a mule to take me home. Congratulations came thick
upon me, while my Káïd was sadly in the dumps, to be at the palace
to-morrow at ten A.M. I had no sooner reached home than fresh slaves
were sent with fruits, and one with a china jar of dates, and an order
for all the money that I had given away to be returned to me, and that
if any one took money from me, his hand should be cut off, and if any
one insulted me, his teeth should be drawn; and that I was to have
one or a hundred soldiers, as I liked, and might go where I pleased.
Sunday, Jan. 31.—Therm. 54°. My patient, the Káïd, getting
better, I went at ten P.M. to visit the Sultán, where I had to
make a dose for his taster. Remained there some time, and left
my bottle and one of my best handkerchiefs. Had my dinner sent
home with me from the palace. Saw the chief eunuch and Jelábí:
prescribed for both. Met with some patients, who nearly drove me
mad. They have a strange idea that women can keep dead children in
the womb for years. Went again to Káïd Jelábí, and heard the same
disgusting application. The news of the fall of Tlemsin was brought
in seven days, which was considered quite wonderful. A telegraph
would have done it in seven minutes. I had scarcely finished reading
the service, when I was driven almost mad by the music sent to do me
honour, and which I was compelled to endure till past midnight. The
Sheik of the Jews, and others, were however highly delighted, and
the beasts will remain continuing the noise till morning. I took up
a fellow who had insulted me; I believe they would have cut out his
tongue had I persisted. Grovelling wretched curs, they come to kiss my
knees. Oh! that I could get away. Never was I so sick of any place as
this. I am literally worn out. I hear there are some letters for me,
which have gone by this place. Sunday, alas! no day of rest to me,
and the noise greater than on any other day.
Monday, Feb. 1.—Therm. 56°. Before I was up, Hájí Hassan, the
Sultán’s tea-maker, was here from the palace with mules to take
me to Ben Ibráhím, called the Sultán’s Heart. I found him on
the eve of departure; prescribed some medicines; gave directions
about his diet. He would make me accept a _haik_ and a _sulham_,
the fabric of Dukálah, of which place he is the Káid. I then
went to the Káid of El ’Arabí, who was not so well. From thence
to Sídí Mohammed, the Sultán’s father-in-law, who gave Cohen
three dollars as a fee. I then went off to the Sultán’s, where
I remained two hours to set about making some syrup of violets,
which I am to finish to-morrow. I ordered a saddle and bridle,
and gave Káid ’Alí half a-dollar a-day to break-in my horse,
who is very unmanageable. Have been hard at work all the afternoon
in preparing a plaster for the Káid of El ’Arabí’s arm and
shoulder. It is a sad business. He is really very bad. But at the
palace they will all have physic. Saw the chief eunuch, a very old
man; had lots of fun with him. I shall have to examine the second
eunuch to-morrow. I was asked to look at the gate-keeper’s foot:
it was in a state of mortification. The cold in the [Blank][52] I
have refused to attempt to touch, and have made many enemies by it;
but I have some little character to lose. Every body here is sadly
dispirited by the fall of Tlemsán.[53] How I contrive to stand all
this work I know not. I am extremely anxious to be off again.
Tuesday, Feb. 2.—Saw to-day more of the city than ever; the
gunpowder manufactory, and the leather-dressing. The powder is made
in the open air. Within four large mounds of earth, all kinds of
offal, the carcases of camels, dogs, &c. are left to putrify, for
the purpose of yielding the nitre. Their process is a very simple
one, and the powder not bad. Some of the fair sex look very comely
in the street. My soldiers got a dollar a-piece for carrying the
medicine. Went after Adáj to see Sádik, Abú’s namesake. Such
a set of beasts I have never seen as I met at his house: he would
have me take a _sulham_ from him, which I gave to Cohen. Saw lots of
the fair sex, and one poor devil of a renegade, for whom, however,
I could do nothing but give him some _pezetas_. Went to the palace,
where I found many patients. One of the Sultán’s children was
sent to me with a message from its mother; but I will not prescribe
without seeing her. I remained at the palace four hours, working at
a syrup of violets and preparing things for the Sultán. Was asked
to eat and drink, but refused every thing, except water. When I
returned home three different cargoes of food were sent; but I have
been worked too much to have any appetite. Thank heaven, many of
the Sultán’s friends are going away. For some days past I have
been compelled to neglect the poor Jews.
Wednesday, Feb. 3.—Therm. 57°. Went early to Adáj. Not so
well. _Pilula et haustus_.[54] Returned home, and found a greater
crowd than ever; mostly women. The story of the dead child was
repeated by some dozen of them. A very pretty creature from Tangier
was afflicted with a strange complaint. My examination of the women
is a bitter pill for the Moors; the women, however, are highly
delighted. I am much puzzled with the pretty Jewess and her husband;
it is the seventh year of her marriage, and he can put her away if
she has no child. I gave them each something to take: it satisfies
them and can do no harm; and I have buoyed up the man with hopes,
although, by all accounts, the fault lies with him. Too tired to
write my letters, which is the more provoking, as couriers are going
daily: have seen above sixty patients to-day. My own health, I find,
is suffering from having too much to think of; I hope, however, that I
have done some good. The case, or rather the result of the diagnostic
by the egg and blood is obtained by the process following:—take
an egg laid on a Thursday, write upon it _ü_ ϋ 99̂9 [Symbol] oo
8999 ξχρσγ[55] _ta a_; put the egg in the moon and dew; break
it in the morning: if you find blood in it, the patient will die;
if no blood, he will recover; and if he does, he must write upon the
ceiling a verse of the Korán, which is not to be carved previously,
nor is he to use any light to write it by, &c.
Thursday, Feb. 4.—Therm. 54°. Felt rather ill, worse, indeed,
than most of my patients; suffering from want of rest: am pestered
with the same host of people, and puzzled with their extraordinary
complaints. Went to the palace, where I was tired out with questions;
returned home, too ill to sleep.
Friday, Feb. 5.—Therm. 52°. Much rain during the night. Adaj
getting well: I am longing to be off. Prepared medicines for the
Sultán. Am sick of the folly and ignorance of these people. Have
sent to ask permission to see the Sultán to-morrow.
Saturday, Feb. 6.—Therm. 57°. Found the bashaw so much better,
that I sent to Ben Alí to request an interview, in the hope of being
able to get away next week; my patients, to-day, have exceeded all
that I have as yet experienced. I have now made a serious complaint,
and have determined to shut up shop. Went to the Millah, and saw
two Jews’ weddings; at one of them the bride was not twelve years
old. Received a letter from Mr. Willshire.
Sunday, Feb. 7.—Therm. 50°. Felt too ill to go to Adaj. Cohen
brought good accounts. Read the prayers, and afterwards went to the
palace. Saw the _Bó-áb_, who will die; had some differences with
the Sheríf, and sent a message to the Sultán: saw Sídí Ben Alí,
who promised to pay me a visit this evening, but as he did not come,
I took a light dinner at 7, afterwards wrote some letters, and retired
early to rest. Very cold. To a message from the Sultán, requiring
to know if I had every thing I wanted, I sent an answer in writing.
Monday, Feb. 8.—Therm. 54°. Went to Jelábí; saw a few
patients. Felt by no means well; returned home, when I received
the two decalogues[56] for the head and arm; three turns above the
elbow, and seven between the elbow and wrist, thus making the ten
commandments; tyed on the second finger of the left hand in hopes
of getting a Saffir.[57] I feel very desirous to be off: received
letters from Mr. Hay, &c., and sent an order for the medicines[58].
Tuesday, Feb. 9.—Therm. 54°. Up early, and went to see Muley
’Abḍ el Wáḥed (the servant of the Only One), the uncle to
the Sultan. No contrast could be greater than that presented by the
two residences. Abd el Wahed preserved, nevertheless, his commanding
aspect and smiling face. He was seated in a yard, with a water-skin
lying in the middle of it; his room was without even a mat. The fine
old man, who was well dressed, was reclining upon the remains of a
carpet, with a small green velvet cushion to lean against, the last
remnant of his former greatness. He requested me to feel his pulse and
order some medicine, and afterwards to visit his sister-in-law. On
my consenting to do so, I was ushered into a side-room, where there
was no mat or carpet, and only a small pot of charcoal, at which sate
a woman who would have made a mother of Coriolanus. She was in rags;
but here and there was seen a jewel to mark her former state. Covered
with a few blankets, the sick woman was lying on the ground; she was
very ill. I promised to pay her every attention. I then asked for
some bottles for the medicines, but they had not one; I then gave them
directions about taking them, when the poor suffering creature said,
“If it must be, make the time of taking them the time of prayer, as
we have no watch—no anything.” I promised to send them a bottle,
and asked for a cup to shew the quantity in each dose. A small teacup
was brought, all that remained for the use of the party. This was
the only house where I entered without a soldier. I did not see a
child. It was the very personification of misery; I hope I may be of
some service to the poor creature. I shall never forget the scene;
the woman at the fire, who might have been seventy years old, had
a look which cannot be forgotten; and the words “God will reward
you,” were pronounced in a tone that still rings in my ears. Went
in the evening to the Jew’s wedding: first to the house of the
bride’s father. Here I found the poor creature seated on a raised
chair, at the upper end of the long narrow room, which was filled
with Jews, who were eating before her to the sound of timbrels
and music, and around her the women were screaming. Her dress was
beautiful and jewels fine; but her face was bedaubed with paint, and
her whole person covered with a thin veil. She had been kept about
an hour waiting my arrival: she was then carried out of the house,
preceded by the timbrels, the Rabbis taking the lead and chaunting;
all the persons, but myself and my soldiers, carried a light. In this
way she was led to the Sók, where the friends of her husband claimed
her, and she was carried to his house, where he had been undergoing
a similar ceremony. Descending from his chair she was placed in it;
the Rabbi then chaunted the service, and taking a glass of wine,
he tasted it, blessed it, and gave it to the bride and bridegroom;
he then put the ring into the hand of the husband, who placed it on
the finger of the wife. The contract of marriage was then read, a
psalm sung, and the bride was carried to the nuptial chamber, where
she must remain seven complete days, nor leave home for a month;
and then only to dine with her father. Slept in the Millah.
Wednesday, Feb. 10.—Therm. 56°. Visited Adáj, who is doing well;
and then went to the káïd Sídí Mohamed Ben el ’Arabí Assoon or
Rhabah: he is a fine old man, but was very poorly. I remained there
some time; afterwards I visited Múlláï ’Abḍ el Wáḥed, who
was better, but still very ill. Returned home; went afterwards to the
palace, where I saw Jelábí and the old eunuch, who shewed me the
bracelets of the ladies, each weighing about one pound: there were
about one hundred of them. A remarkably fine and young Towáshí[59]
has become a patient. The court-yard of the palace presented a
strange appearance to-day: there was a young lion as playful as a
dog, several gazelles, and a large eagle. As the camels were loaded
with muskets for Fez, I saw there were some signs of preparations
for moving northwards. Felt to-day a slight touch of a _coup de
soleil_: the sun was excessively hot. Called on Jelábí, and saw
the little black.[60] Began making my preparations for departure,
as I hope to be off next week.
Thursday, Feb. 11.—Therm. 58°, and rose to 102°. At eleven
A.M. it stood at 97°. At three P.M. the heat rather oppressive;
and yet there is a fine view from the garden of the snow-crowned
Atlas. At six P.M. the Therm. was 60°: at nine P.M. it had sunk
to 57°. Went early to see my patient at Abd el Wahed’s: found
her better, but still very poorly. It is heart-rending to witness
such a change in her fortune, yet as the poor sufferer appears to be
soothed by my visits, I go there most willingly. Her blessing to-day
was pronounced with a fervour I shall never forget. Saw one of the
horses of the desert: these animals are used to hunt the ostrich; they
can perform immense journeys; they are fed only once in three days;
I had this from the mouth of the groom; its allowance is a large
jar of camel’s milk every third day; its colour was iron-grey,
with rather heavy legs, but a spare carcase; it was very docile. The
groom was highly gratified with the notice I took of it. Returned
home, and found the Káïd’s _táleb_[61] waiting for me. I am
heartily tired of my diploma, and medicines are beginning to fail,
while patients are on the increase. Abú was sent for by the chief
eunuch, and has returned with a story rather too flaming about myself:
but I must bear with it. Poor fellow! he is more helpless than ever. I
could not have got on at all without Cohen, who is most attentive: he
has received some very promising offers, if he will settle here as a
doctor; and if he remains with me twelve months, I think I should be
able to recommend him. I wish, however, he would take less brandy:
it is true that he is never tipsy, but no man can stand what he
takes for any length of time. Had a striped wild boar brought, to
see if I would buy it, and then a fine turkey, a rare bird in this
country. Sent Cohen to the Meshwá: the heat is too great for me,
under the excitement I suffer from overworking. I told him to ask
permission for us to depart: I doubt it will not be granted on the
first application. The second eunuch is much better. I find that
medicines have a more powerful effect upon such persons than even
upon women: three grains of calomel, &c. produced thirteen motions.
Friday, Feb. 12.—From the variation of temperature yesterday,
I determined to watch the thermometer every hour. At five A.M. it
stood at 42°; at six it rose to 47°, but at seven it fell to 44°;
at eight it got up to 48°; at nine the sun reached it, when it rose
to 80°; at ten it was 91°; at eleven it had sunk to 90°, but rose
again at noon to 91°; at one P.M. it was 94°; at two it had reached
102°, but at three it sunk to 80; at four to 73°; and at five to
69°; giving a variation of 62°, and a mean temperature of 74°,
during twelve hours; at six it was 60°. I discovered to-day that
five cannot be pronounced before the Sultán: one must say four and
one. His daughter had been sent for me to see: when I had called
her a beautiful child, the person who brought her immediately put
up his hand, and pronounced the word _kamsa_ (five), which prevents
the effects of the evil eye: for a similar purpose the Jews place a
hand over the doors of their houses. Went to Adáj to take leave: I
saw he had a sum of money tied up in a piece of rag, and this led me
to refuse, before he offered it. He said he knew he was doing wrong;
and after some time he gave it to Cohen. I was sorry he took it, and
yet I wished to know what he intended to give: found, on my coming
home, fifty ducats, a sum that Cohen now regrets he has taken, and
means to return it this evening. Went to káïd Jelábí; dressed his
hand; thence to ’Abḍ el Wáḥed’s; found the good woman much
worse. Although I told them she was dying, she had been eating raw
turnips: I now refused to give her any more medicine. Returned home
very ill, and quite sick and tired with the place, and disgusted with
the behaviour of the people. Sent Cohen to Sídí Ben Alí, to say
that I must go away, else my health would suffer. The worst of these
people is, that if one sends them upon a business that requires only
a few minutes, they take as many hours about it: besides, the system
of giving presents from the Sultán downwards has a bad effect. But
as the people are ordered to wait, I cannot help myself. Tired of
presents: they cost too dear. Went to bed without dinner or tea.
Saturday, Feb. 13.—Therm. at each hour from 7 A.M. to P.M.,
both inclusive, stood as follows:—56°. 58°. 67°. 85°. 86°.
91°. 91°. 96°. 75°. 68°. 65°. Lots of work at the palace
and at Jelábís. Began to prepare stocks. Saw Sídí Ben Alí,
and obtained permission to make arrangements for my departure. I
am happy to hear that I am to get rid of my soldiers and to take
others. Cohen went back with the money to Adáj; but he compelled
him to keep it. Passed some time with Ben Alí. The old boy has
fallen in love with my watch. He says he will have it, if he sells
himself for it: he offered two negroes. I have promised to give it
him, if he will obtain for me one of the Sultánah’s dresses. He
has acceded to my terms. As I shall be sure to lose my watch, I
may as well get a dress[62] for it. Abu was sent for twice to-day:
there are some symptoms of a wish to keep him here, of which he is
sadly afraid. Prescribed for Ben Zoar (the pearl): he is a curious
specimen of a nondescript animal, and more like a woman than a man.
Sunday, Feb. 14.—Therm. 67°. The variation to-day not so
great. Went and took leave of Adáj: found him in a great rage; he had
been beating his women. Returned home and saw a few patients. Received
a visit from the minister; read prayers, and then went out on the
terrace of the house, to take a view of the country. The mountain
range presented a very beautiful boundary to the prospect. Dined
early, that I might go to Sídí Ben Alí in the evening. Every thing
is now arranged: I intend sending a part of the baggage direct to
Mogador to-morrow, and to start on Wednesday. _Inshá-llah_.
Monday, Feb. 15.—Therm. 47°; rose to 99° at 1 P.M., then fell to
60° at 6 P.M. Had a great squabble, and almost a fight, in my room:
refused to see any one to-day. Began paying and arranging; found
it a difficult task to get away. Was visited by a pretty Jewess,
she was brought to be examined for some complaint in the back; it
was evidently the consequence of a miscarriage, but the Moorish and
Jewish women will have it that it arises from carrying, what they
say happens frequently, a dead child in the womb. The poor Jewish
patient was willing to undergo a rigid examination, but I dared not;
there were many conjectures about the reason for her coming. I find
that I have offended the Shereéff, and am glad of it. Wrote to
Mr. Willshire, and am now only waiting for the mules, which arrived
from Teródánt this day; and as soon as they have sufficiently
rested I shall start: every thing goes well. A severe thunder-storm
was seen in the direction of Mount Atlas, but it did not reach here.
Tuesday, Feb. 16.—Therm. 56°. Up early, and sent off the baggage;
although I fear I shall not get away to-morrow: bought two mules,
with saddles and bridles, for about five dollars, but without
stirrups. Had Abd el Kerim brought to trial; both he and the
Káïd were very much frightened. Received back my bottles and
handkerchiefs from the Sultán: went to the palace. Find it does
not do to have one’s servant a man of business, as Cohen is; he is
too much occupied in his own affairs to attend to mine. Had a good
deal of fun with Ben Ali and the ladies; making lots of friends:
I am to see him again this evening. Received another present from
the Sultán, and have been requested to pass the palace in my way
out of Marocco. I find the money going very fast, and have been
sadly disappointed with my spurs,[63] bit, and buckles. I expect a
little disturbance to-morrow: turned sadler, to the great amusement
of the soldiers. The ladies of the harem expressed their thanks for
my amusing them with an acchordion. Ben Alí and myself have made
a bet against my return. Saw old Hijází basking in the sun, had a
long talk with him; he sent for me in the evening to see his wife,
but I could not go. I am now to have only five soldiers, according
to my own request, and shall get on much better. It is now six
o’clock, and the mules are not yet ready: they are now killing
the fowls which I am to dine on in half an hour; but as they did
not make their appearance, I was obliged to be contented with some
bad bread and butter. Went to the minister again with physic, and
gave him a case of Seidlitz powders. Every thing is now prepared,
and I am to be at the palace to-morrow.
Wednesday, Feb. 17.—Therm. 60°. I was off to the Sultán’s,
and saw him start on horseback. I was ordered to go to the Máníyah,
where I had my audience of leave: this is by far the most beautiful
spot here. I had a row with the Sheïkh. Sent off my last present
of dates and brandy—a token of sweetness and of my parting in
the garden. I found a great difficulty in getting away: at last,
I left at one P.M. the gates of Marocco, with five fresh soldiers,
and attended by ten others. For the first two hours the route was
over a plain, in a S.E. direction, and afterwards more east. After
crossing the river Tensift, the Wád Zitt, and the Wád Aghmát, we
came to a _douar_, where we slept, having received a good monah. The
situation was splendid.
Thursday, Feb. 18.—Therm. 40°. Started for the house of the Káïd
Ibráhím, who came to meet us with forty horse and his standard. He
received me with all the honours of a salute; during which, one
man was thrown from his horse. We remained there three hours, and
then commenced ascending Mount Atlas. The first place we arrived
at was Trasermoot,[64] where I learned that a tax had been levied
for me of 300 fowls and ten sheep. I went up to see the ruins:
they occupy a circle of three miles, with walls, gates, baths,
and arches: the last, however, have no key-stone. There are five
walls, and the whole place exhibits signs of having been a strong
position—in fact, a Gibraltar in miniature. I went in the evening
to dine with the Jews—here called the sons of Yehúdi: they are
a most extraordinary people. I never met with such hospitality,
or such freedom of manner in any Jews. They had dancing and music,
and the ladies mixed in society without the least restraint. I bought
here several things. A great squabble took place, when the Sheïkh
Berbo played the part of a scoundrel. These are the Jews who have
each a berber-master. I have almost a mind to go back to Marocco
to complain: the affair will, however, be not without its use,
as it will furnish a good excuse for not stopping on the road. The
elevation of the place is ......... feet.[65] I have determined to
make the best of my way to Mogador, after seeing Waríkah.
Friday, Feb. 19.—The therm. 47°, although the place is much nearer
the snow and is at a considerable elevation. I am in great doubts
about the city: it is built of unhewn stone, and the arches are very
rudely formed. I could learn nothing in the way of tradition. The Jews
here puzzle me sadly: they have an air of freedom and defiance. I
was rather the worse for their fare last night. On my telling them
the tradition I had heard respecting them, they said, “It is true,
and we have it so.” They have no certain knowledge of the time when
they came here, but they think that the lost brethren are to be found
probably at Tafilelt; where, as at Elion, they dug twelve wells,
and planted seventy-two palm-trees. The Rabbi here sung a sort of
Psalm, which he had written to compliment me, and they all joined
in the last sentence—“Blessed is he that cometh in the name of
the Lord.” I went to the synagogue, and returned to my tent to
prepare for starting. What a changeable being is man! I got up, and
went to the Sheïkh of the Berbers to make a complaint, and I have
now to write to Abd-Salám to say that I am perfectly satisfied. I
wish I could always get the pure pronunciation and etymology of the
names of towns and other places. Thus, for example, the Misfywah,
as it is called in the maps, is Oom Sievra (mother of Sievra),[66]
the name of the first tribe who settled here. Again, Trasermoot is
in reality _tras_ (head), and _ermoot_ (valley). At noon we started,
accompanied by the whole population. We passed through a beautiful
olive-grove. In descending a steep dip, I observed some people,
and a pile of something, which turned out to be my dinner. It had
been cooked on the spot: no four persons could have carried it:
I could not eat a mouthful; but the soldiers played their parts in
high style, and to their heart’s content. Our road then became most
beautiful, and after crossing a river made a tremendous ascent. We
were now joined by another party. I had chosen this road, rather
than return to Káïd Abd-Salám, who had sent to say he would give
me an escort of sixty horse: but I fell from the frying-pan into
the fire. We arrived at a large millah, where persons came out with
wine and milk. I had to touch each, and put a drop on my horse’s
mane: I was too ill to drink any myself, while the women saluted
me with a terrible screaming. We then proceeded to a second river,
where we were met by a Sheïkh, with two Shilḥahs[67] on foot,
who disappeared in the twinkling of an eye in a ravine; and on
descending, I found forty of them with their guns all levelled at,
and waiting for, me; while some twenty more were on the large stones
on the sides of the ravine, together with ten on horseback, headed by
the Sheïkh, who was beautifully mounted. As soon as I came on the
level he went forward some little distance; then wheeling suddenly
his horse, he came at the top of its speed towards me. Knowing it
would be best to keep myself as I was, moving on, he placed his
gun on my hat, stopping his horse at the same moment. Such a halt I
had never seen: this made my own horse nearly mad. The whole then
commenced firing, and so close to me, that I got the powder in my
face, and the report almost cracked my ears. We then turned from the
road to see a fine cave, which was said to pass through the mountain
called Gulgál. At this point we had a view of Marocco. Skirting the
mountain, which overlooked a river, and a country with enclosures like
an English farm, we got into the district of Waríkah, where we had
more firing. Arriving at the house of the Káïd, I tried to walk,
but found myself too much exhausted. I received a visit from some
Jews, who stated that they have here the tombs of two rabbis who
escaped from the second destruction of Jerusalem; that their nation
has resided here ever since that event. We had some talk about some
books connected with this tradition, but they will not shew them,
nor can they go with me to-morrow, as it is their Sabbath, to the
burial-ground. They are generally very ignorant, although they can
manufacture, in a rude way, silver rings and bracelets.[68] Over the
mountain opposite there is a valley equal to the plain of Marocco,
where dwell, say the Jews here, those who escaped from Nebuchadnezzar,
from whose time they have preserved their national records. There is,
however, too much snow at present to enable us to reach the place
whose name is Kibla. In Waríkah there are sixty heads of families,
and some of the _douars_[69] are more numerous. At Trasermoot every
Jew has his master; but here they have only one. On the mountain
there are two; in other places there are three; and so on. The
annual tax is a ducat for the head of each family; but they have
to entertain and provide for all who come in the Sultán’s name:
they are the most intelligent I have met with.
Saturday, Feb. 20.—Therm. 50°. Our road is more beautiful as
we proceed. We passed more than twelve millahs, at which we had
milk, &c. We halted half an hour at a fine stream, where I got some
specimens,[70] and then came to Gurgal, a fine-looking place, where
there are many gardens, plenty of water, and a curious tower. We
arrived here at two P.M. The Káïd came out to meet us with
twenty horse: we had to remain here, although distant only twelve
miles from Waríkah. Our course had been S.W. and S.S.W.,[71] and
Marocco now bears N.W.[72] We saw many traces of the wild boar. The
Shulúh came out with their dogs, and started some hares and flushed
some partridges, but caught nothing. We walked down to the river,
which runs at the foot of the hill on which this place stands:
I collected a few specimens, and found many boulders of granite,
generally a speckled stone: the water was slightly ferrugineous. The
Jews here can give no information: they have not resided here more
than eleven years. We are to go to-morrow to Almishmish.
Sunday, Feb. 21.—Therm. 47°. The Sheïkh’s brother was brought
to me: he had been shot by somebody while he was in the mosque:
the ball had entered the left breast, passed through the ribs,
and came out at the shoulder: it was a bad case. We could not get
off till half-past nine A.M. We crossed the river, and after losing
our way, and passing more than thirty villages, the people wanted
to stop, but I insisted on proceeding. Our road was very beautiful,
but trying, as we continued to ascend. Some of the ravines surpass
any thing I have ever seen. We passed several tanks, built along
the route, for the convenience of travellers: the water was fine: I
picked up many curious specimens. At three P.M. we crossed the river
Nefísah, a noble stream; above which stands the town of El-Arján,
where we saw the women’s heads dressed fantastically with flowers,
and some fakirs adorned with curious ornaments. We did not reach
Almishmish[73] till just before dark. The Sheïkh Sídí Mohamed
Ben Aḥmed is a great Káïd, who sent us lots of presents. This,
which I hoped would be an easy day, turned out the hardest of any
we had travelled. My horse is so knocked up, that I find we must
remain here the whole of to-morrow.
Monday, Feb. 22.—Therm. 50°. There was a little rain during the
night. I have been so bitten by fleas, that I look like a person with
the small-pox. Our journey yesterday was twenty miles, W. by S. and
W.S.W.; we went a part of the way up the dry bed of a river. I found
here some varieties of mixed stones, and a spring nearly equal to that
at Vaucluse: there were numerous mills scattered through the country,
which was very beautiful. We went to breakfast with the Káïd in
his garden; it was done in great style. Received lots of presents,
and had many patients, especially some old women; amongst the rest,
there was brought to me a man who had been attacked when employed in
the fields, and had both of his arms broken and half of his nose cut
off: I replaced the piece of the latter and set the arms, for which
I had to manufacture splints. These are a strange people; when I had
finished, the fellow did not even say ‘thank you.’ Many of the
ladies here are ill, but I have no remedy for them. The chief of the
Jews sent for me, to shew his hospitality; but I have no appetite, and
they are miserable unless one eats and drinks to repletion. I must,
however, pay him and his household a visit, although their filth is
dreadful; and I am covered with vermin that have emigrated from my
patients. Long—very long, will it be before I forget this visit. The
Káïd’s brother, and one Hají Hámed,[74] are great drunkards;
the man’s wife is half naked, but loaded with ornaments. I was
struck equally with the profusion of the viands devoured and the
quantity of brandy gulped down: the room was covered with filth
and kelp, in which there is a great trade carried on here. It was
impossible, however, not to be pleased with their hospitality and
good-humour, despite the lice, which was an honour I could well
dispense with. Returned home about eleven, P.M.; it was very cold.
Tuesday, Feb. 23.—Therm. 50°. It turned very cold. I remarked on
the road the strange manner of keeping their corn in large baskets,
plastered over, and set on the roofs of the house, where they present
a very odd appearance. Received presents again before starting,
which did not take place till nine, A.M. We met with three old women,
who could have played the witches in Macbeth admirably: our road was
beautiful, but my horse very unmanageable. Our course was W. by S. for
two hours, and then W.N.W. After skirting the mountain, we halted at
one, P.M., in a fine brush-wood, where there was a fine cover for a
quantity of game; we then started again, our course being W. by S.,
and made about twenty-six miles, and rested for the night at Káïd
Sídí Ben Mohammed’s Mikád; the place is called Seifel Mál,
on which he has laid out much money. No sooner were we in the house
than I had a host of patients. The Káïd himself, a man of seventy
years old, wants to take some medicines, for the purpose of knowing
what kind of stuff it is, and how he shall feel after it, having
heard all the people talk of my physic: he shewed me his harem,
consisting of ten or twelve ladies. Our room, which is very ruinous,
is fifty feet long, and only six wide. I confess I was pleased with
the candour of mine host, who said, when taking away his carpet,
that it was full of fleas, and he supposed I should prefer my own
fleas to his. I wish, with all my heart, he had taken his mats also;
we never had so bad a night—almost devoured by vermin. We are now
promised to be at Mogador to-morrow evening.
Wednesday, Feb. 24.—Therm. 56°. Much rain during the night, but
we have fortunately had fine weather during the day. In our ride
yesterday we passed many excavations in the side of the ravine which
forms the bed of the river; in these the shepherds and their cattle
herd together. The people here are said to be very Háramís.[75]
Our course was W.N.W. for two hours; then W. by S. for two; then
W.N.W. to N.W.: we passed several _douars_. The people here have
evidently never seen a Christian. The Káïd, his wife, and whole
family, came to see me last night; and this morning she has sent
to ask me to mount my horse before her: a pretty woman, too, has
brought me a dagger.[76] The country is flat, but little cultivated:
we here met with the _Klágh_ again. At one, P.M., we came to a large
and fine head of water, called Ras el ’Ain, where we halted to take
some refreshment; we then passed three large _douars_. At Auled es
Sibá my horse threw me; he was quite done up, and I had to walk for
more than two hours: at last, after a day of thirteen hours, we came
to some habitations, and put up at the house of Hájí Abú. During
the day we passed through a district with a river called Kihira; there
were large herds of cattle, particularly camels, which are kept here
for breeding: the ground was covered with flowering-shrubs, amongst
which I discovered a great quantity of old man, thyme, wild mint,
the marygold, &c. I cannot say I much liked the looks of my host,
nor, indeed, of the place, into which the soldiers were not permitted
to enter. Allah hátebek, habábek, was pronounced very frequently,
as there was nothing to eat; a sheep was killed for the soldiers,
but before it was ready we had all fallen asleep. In the morning I
had to doctor all the women; they had never seen a Christian, but, by
some means, the chieftain’s lady had procured the button belonging
to a naval uniform, which she considered her principal ornament.
Thursday, Feb. 25.—Therm. 57°. Off at seven, P.M.; much rain had
fallen during the night: we were compelled by the country hills to
vary the direction of our course to W. by N.; we passed by many
villages, and many ruins. At noon we entered a large wood of the
argan,[77] from which an oil is extracted; it is a low and bushy,
but fine tree; there was also a good deal of carraway, &c. Through
a country not so well cultivated, we entered Háhá, through which
we continued our journey till four P.M., when we fell in with the
great road leading from Marocco. We then entered an immense wood,
which took us two hours to traverse, and came out upon the most
extraordinary sand-hills I ever saw; from their tops Mogadór was
visible, but as night was coming on we dispatched a soldier at eight
P.M. When we arrived at the city, we found that Mr. Willshire was
with the governor. The former took me to his house, where I made
myself comfortable with a glass of porter: I remained there till
midnight, and then threw myself on his bed.
Friday, Feb. 26.—Therm. 58°. Heavy rains. Had not much sleep:
the porter too strong for me. Occupied the whole day in unpacking and
removing to my own house: found some difficulty with the soldiers. Saw
the agent of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún, and in the afternoon the
brother of the Sheïkh; they fear the Sultán will stop me, and that
I shall have to go back; but I shall make the acquaintance of the
Sheïkh, and though I am prepared to go back, if necessary, still,
I shall endeavour to get away, and go down to Wád Nún, and take my
chance. Rained the whole day: returned home, and went early to rest.
Saturday, Feb. 27.—Therm. 56°. Heavy rain, with a high sea, and
much swell. As this is an idle day, I went to look at the horse, and
in the afternoon walked round and outside the town, accompanied by
Mr. Willshire; it is a finer one than any I have yet seen in Marocco:
there is an air of comfort and business about it quite uncommon; it
has a good market. Met the people coming in from hunting the live Dil.
Sunday, Feb. 28.—Therm. 50°. Feels cold; wind from the N. Read
prayers, and then paid a visit to the governor, who was very civil:
I fear, however, that matters do not go on quite so smooth as I
could wish. Prepared medicines for the people on the road. Retired
to rest early, not very well.
Monday, Feb. 29.—Therm. 60°. at eight; 80°. at nine; 102°. at
ten; 100°. at eleven; 106°. at twelve; and at one rose to 116°.,
the hottest weather I have felt as yet in Barbary. Saw Ombark[78] of
Nún, the brother of Sheïkh Beïrúk: matters are going on well. I
had a look at the Kobbah of Sídí Mogodúl, which the Christians
have converted into Mogadór: the Moors call it Suweïrah (picture);
it is, certainly, the handsomest city in the empire. Went to the
auction-mart: the night cold.
Tuesday, March 1.—Therm. 60°., but rose to 116°. at one P.M.;
the weather beautiful. Walked over the town; saw several patients,
but not being very well, retired early to rest.
Wednesday, Mar. 2.—Therm. 62°. Weather heavy, with
damp-heat. Visited the káïd of Shavviyah, his brother, and father;
the first was afflicted with a kind of scabies, the second with
the a cold and the third with old age, but with an extraordinary
conformation, which made him look like an hermaphrodite. Walked
round the fortifications, which are good, and have several batteries
mounted: it is not only the strongest, but the best kept town in
the empire.
Thursday, Mar. 3.—Therm. 60°. Up early, and went on board
the Mauritania: got nearly swamped through the breakers, and a
considerable swell from the Atlantic. The boats of the ships were all
in readiness, expecting every moment that we should require their
assistance. There is a small island, on which is the state-prison,
together with a small mosque, and a few houses: from this place the
town presents a fine view. To-day is a great feast with the Jews,
and is the first on which they make their passover cakes: called
at many of their houses. The Jewish population here, Mr. Willshire
thinks, is nearly equal to that of Marocco; they are certainly better
housed, and in better circumstances. Saw some beautiful women:
many of the men are dressed in European cloths, and even speak
English. As I got wet through in coming here, and was suffering
from sea-sickness, I did not leave home the whole evening. Massers,
whose name has been converted into Moses, though his people call him
Oman, brought me the prices of all the things in the market; every
article is now scarce and dear, owing to the proximity of the army
to the city. Meat, whether beef or mutton, is two-pence per pound;
bread, twenty loaves for a peseta, the usual number is thirty; Eggs,
three dozen for a peseta, at other times there are eight dozen for
the same sum; wheat and barley, four pesetas per cwt., which is just
double the usual price. The people have been crying out for rain,
and they have now got it with a vengeance. I expect my courier will
reach Wád Nún to-day, and to have an answer by to-morrow week.
Friday, Mar. 4.—Therm. 65°. Fine. Had many visits, and lots of
patients. Felt rather poorly.
Saturday, Mar. 5.—Therm. 60°. Got up late: went to the Jews’
town, and saw my patients. Rode out with Mr. Willshire; hurt myself,
and had to lie by.
Sunday, Mar. 6.—Therm. 57°. Weather very boisterous. Abou ill;
the cold and wet disagree with him. Read prayers: Saturday is kept
here as the Sabbath, hence our Sunday is their busiest day.
Monday, Mar. 7.—Therm. 60°. Still cold, and very wet: heavy sea,
and no boats able to come ashore. Kept the house the greater part
of the day.
Tuesday, Mar. 8.—Therm. 57°. Very wet, the rain comes down in
torrents. Received letters from Tangier: visited my patients; wrote
to England. I am told that I may expect an answer from Wád Nún at
the end of the week.
Wednesday, Mar. 9.—Therm, 60°. The weather brightening up: the
people all busy. Ransacked shops, but found very little. Feel not
very well: began with my vocabulary.
Thursday, Mar. 10.—Therm. 65°. Very fine. Paid a visit to
Sídí Ben Idris. I learnt from him some particulars respecting
the Khunthas. He tells me it is Herami for their native doctors to
examine these people; that when this is necessary, as in the case of
(an expected) death, it must be done by means of a glass, that they
who have the parts of the male prominent, are set down as men who are
destined to have a double portion of prosperity; while those in which
the female organ is more developed, are, like the other sex, less
fortunate. They are called Khunthá and Khanáth; the most perfect
are found at Fez. Received my answer from the Sheïkh of Wád Nún;
it is perfectly satisfactory, he will protect me beyond Tumbuktú,
if necessary; it only remains for me to know the terms. Made my
round of patients.
Friday, Mar. 11.—Therm. 65°. Weather beautiful. Went to
the káïd of Shedmah, whom I found better: have had many
applications. Mr. Willshire went to Ben Idris, who will offer no
opposition; all therefore goes on well. Got out the tent preparatory
to departure. The brother of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún is to accompany
me as far as that place. I find some difficulty about money matters,
and must therefore send to London. Cohen is not doing so well; he
finds I can dispense with his services, and I shall be glad to get
rid of him entirely.
Saturday, March 12.—Therm. 66°. Walked with Mr. Willshire to see
Reis Múden’s wife, and other patients. The ladies opposite are
very merry: made arrangements for the letter to the Sultán.
Sunday, March 13.—Therm. 60°. Weather very boisterous. Read the
prayers; my patients are improving: had a visit from Hájí Omar, who
lately had some hot pepper rubbed in his mouth for telling a lie: the
punishment ought to be repeated, as he has made up a fine story about
me. I begin to feel an anxiety to get off: but any hurry on my part
would mar all my prospects. Took the tent to pieces, and have several
Jews at work; for as the holidays of these people and the Moors are
at hand, I must get every thing done before their commencement.
Monday, March 14.—Therm. 66°. Weather hot and muggy. Went to
dine in the Jews’ town: such a dinner! I heard a long account of
the cabbalists, the talkers with God, and the angels. Returned home,
and arranged to start this day week for Teródánt, to quiet the talk
about us. I do not feel quite contented with Cohen: his son has the
_bocca larga_. During the afternoon we were visited by the hot wind:
it was very oppressive: began my letter-writing, and hope soon to
get off.
Tuesday, March 15.—Therm. 66°. Some rain fell during the
night. Received the names of Hámed Libbú, king of Tumbuktú;
Fehedier, king of Hausah; Woled Mansa Ensilú, king of Bambarrah;
all of them are well known to Abú. Preparing to start.
Wednesday, March 16.—Therm. 70°. Fine, but with signs of rain in
the distance. Went to the governor to say that I intended leaving
next week: sent off letters to the Sultán. Was hard at work with
my patients, all of whom are doing well.
Thursday, March 17.—Therm. 66°. The weather is brightening up;
busy in preparing; wrote letters to send by the Milford; heard the
history of the man who found the camels in the sand, and made his
fortune by it. This happened at two days’ journey from Wád Nún:
employed in preparations for starting.
Friday, March 18.—Therm. 66. Wind S.; got very warm towards
mid-day; had my marquee altered to a tent, at an expense of ten
dollars; determined to leave my horse, and made preparations for
mule-travelling. The most extraordinary reports are in circulation
about me; first, that I am going all over the country to see where
it can be best attacked, and conquered; next, that I have turned
merchant, and am going to Súdán to buy up the gold; and queries
are asked as to the quantity of salt I shall have to carry for that
purpose. Of this last article, the price is extravagantly high. A
human being is given for as much as two feet can cover, and the
whole of a woman’s jewels have been asked for as much as she could
cover with her body. Had three of the famed serpent-stones brought me
to purchase: they fetch very high prices, as they are a remedy for
the bite of the reptile, and are used as a most costly medicine. I
made several offers; the men had refused twenty-two ducats for the
three; a large sum for a Moor to give, and an Arab to refuse. They
are generally brought from Sùdàn: these, however, were taken from
the _M’hor_, which is a kind of antelope, and are called _selsí_
in the Mandingo language: they are used as an antidote in cases
of poison, and are applied also to pains and bruises: I bought the
three for eight dollars. The moon was visible and clear; a sign of
fine weather. This evening the Sultan is to receive my application:
it is therefore a moment of great anxiety.
Saturday, March 19.—Therm. 67. Weather beautiful: the Milford about
to sail. At half-past one the Therm. in the sun was 114°. Did not
rise at all to-day: rather the worse for the copper[79] of yesterday.
Sunday, March 20.—Therm. 65°. Read the prayers. This is the great
day of business here; there are symptoms of rebellion in the north;
the Sultan is to move to-day; a large arrival from Wád Nún. I hope
to buy some pieces of gold to-morrow: several were brought to-day,
but none were very good. The mithkal or mazar is equal in value to
two dollars and a-half; a dollar, by weight, contains six mithkals,
one sora of gold. The ordinary lot in which it is sold is equal to
fifteen dollars and a quarter in weight, and in value 225 dollars. The
rate of purchase is at thirty-five to forty ounces the ducat. It is
brought mostly in the shape of ornaments.
Monday, March 21.—Therm. 66°. I took the best observations I could
without a barometer, which is not to be found here; and considering
too that the day was very unfavourable. Arranged for my mules: got
every thing ready: am very anxious to hear from Marocco. A vessel
has arrived from Gibraltar.
Tuesday, March 22.—Therm. 66°. Went to the governor, and
took leave; saw four men, who lived only six days’ journey from
Tumbuktú. The tent is but barely dry. I had no time to write to the
Astronomical Society; I kept the paper; took leave of my patients;
glad to get off.
Wednesday, March 23.—Therm. 66°. Up early; commenced arrangements
for loading the mules; did not get off, however, till ten P.M., and
was then detained a half hour at the gate. Mr. Willshire and other
friends accompanied me for the first two hours and half. The road
was over sand-hills, covered with a sort of vegetation. We halted
at one P.M., took a lunch, and then my friends left me. The country
now became more beautiful, and we entered a fine forest of argan:
the day was beautiful; the wind behind us; the people all gay;
my mule wanting no goad. As I am rather superstitious, I took the
following event for a good omen. At a turn in the wood three boys
came up to bid me Muhabbah-bik, and brought upon their slate
نصر من الله و فتح قريب و بسرالمومنين
nasr mini-llahi wa fat-hu karibu wa basre-l múminína—“Help from
God, and victory is near at hand, and good tidings for the faithful
in God.” We continued our route, meeting a great number of people;
the ground was carpeted with flowers. Arrived at the foot of a
mountain, and crossing a stream, we came to our halt at half-past
six, at Edvvisán or Smemo,[80] where we were well received, and
liked the people. I was very tired, and having no appetite, took a
draught of sour milk, and laying myself down, was soon fast asleep.
Thursday, March 24.—Therm. 62°. Up early, but did not start till
eight A.M. The country here is well cultivated, and the barley has
already attained its full height: the land is fertile. At an hour’s
distance from this place there are two large salt-mines: we visited
one of them: the salt floats upon the surface of a brine lake, highly
impregnated. The trees here begin to be finer. There is a hill of sand
in the neighbourhood, where it is said that the Christians used to
bring their horses to roll themselves. The water is fine, and tanks
have been built along the whole road from Mogadór, distant from each
other about a two hours’ journey. We halted at noon; the ground
was covered with wild mignionette; the cuckoo was heard the whole
day, and a shepherd, with a shrill pipe, accompanied each flock:
the scenery to-day charming. We did not reach our intended halt;
for the heat was tremendous; and yet, strange to say, I was the only
person who did not suffer by it. The thermometer on my saddle stood
at 114° for some hours together: in the shade even it was 90°. The
place called Edujwilil is a miserable one. We are to have a longer
day to-morrow, as I wish to arrive before the feast: dined on leben,
(sour milk), and after taking tea went to bed.
Friday, March 25.—Therm. 66°. The noise I made last night has
done some good. We had yesterday a fine view of the snowy peaks of
Atlas. I never had such a night as at this place. Edujwilil outdoes in
vermin Safilmel: I could not bear to be in the room, and sat outside
of the house all the night; I will have my own way this evening. The
whole road was rendered very beautiful by large plantations of the
almond-tree. Some of the fruit was nearly ripe; the corn was high,
and the soil richer. We came again upon the Atlas range; where it
reaches to the sea; it has fine sloping hills, and round-capped chalk
mountains. We entered a magnificent pass, that took us an hour to
get through it: the scenery here was very striking. A great deal of
our route lay through the road cut by Muley Suleiman. My soldier rode
his white horse, which he made to kneel down at the tombs. Arrived at
Hájí Mohamed’s at Beni Tamer: this village is called Ait Isak,
where we received presents, Mr. Willshire having told him to take
care of us. We put up in a shed, where we had a fine view of the sea.
Saturday, March 26.—Therm. 70°. I am so much burnt by yesterday’s
sun, that I can scarcely move my hands. We came to Fernit, where the
road turns off to Agadir: we, however, kept down towards the sea,
following a track: we had lots of lāb el barod.[81] At ten A.M. we
rounded the end of a chain, which slopes down to the sea. The strata
here, as in yesterday’s route, were of lime-stone and sand-stone
of every shade, and assumed a variety of forms. There were numerous
caverns, and large masses of pudding-stone. We passed a fishing
station, where we found many boats, and the poles for drying the fish
were placed horizontally from tree to tree. The ground was covered
with the _euphorbium_, wild lavender and stocks; and we saw a great
quantity of partridges, pigeons, and birds of prey. We met likewise
with an aqueduct to supply the tanks with water, that occur at about
two leagues apart: they are generally from twelve to fourteen feet
deep, and about half filled with water. We halted at mid-day in a
large grove of rhododendrons in full blossom: the water was bad. In
the strata here are quantities of fossil remains. From the shelving
coast we ascended a very steep mountain, and continued rising to
about one thousand feet. Here we found immense rocks of shells, some
of the masses would have weighed tons. While I was collecting a few
specimens, Abú remarked that the same kind of shells are to be met
with at Súdán. Continuing our route, we descended again towards the
sea, and went along the sands till dark, and then climbing a kind of
Gibraltar rock, reached our resting place, Tamaraet; where, however,
we could get nothing, nor find even a place for pitching the tent:
and as we were not permitted to enter a house, we were compelled to
sleep in the open air, while a heavy dew was falling.
Sunday, Mar. 27.—Therm. 65°. Up early; walked out and enjoyed
the view, from a considerable elevation. Read a part of the morning
service. Did not get off till eight, P.M.: had a most splendid ride
of two hours to Agadír, which exhibits the remains of great strength,
and of some splendour. We had the upper part of the fortress allotted
to us, from which the view was magnificent, but the heat excessive:
we are to remain here to-day and to-morrow. Read the prayers, and
washed some clothes. Walked through the ruins; there was scarcely
a house; some five or six buildings, resembling shops, supplied the
wants of a population not exceeding one hundred souls including Jews
and children; I have since heard that there are but thirty. The walls
are very good, and the Káïd has been building a new fort. Below
it, and about half a mile off is Fontí,[82] where there is a very
fine spring, which supplies this place with water. The governor was
particularly civil, in fact he over-did the thing, for every two
hours he brought us food. The moon rose beautifully; the night was
fine, but cold: I walked on the battery till nine P.M.
Monday, Mar. 28.—Therm. 60°. Air cold, weather hazy. This is the
grand feast of the Mussulmans; the last day of Dhí-l Hajjah, and the
end of the year. All my people are so changed by washing themselves,
that I hardly know them again. We went through the ceremony of kissing
each other, and giving blessings; I had my blessing sent me as soon
as day broke. On this day the gates of the Ka’abah are opened; nor
do the Mussulmans go to the mosque, but say their prayers outside
of the town. When these are finished, either at the Masallá[83]
or in the circle, a sheep is slaughtered and placed immediately
before a man upon a fleet horse; if it reaches the town alive,
the year will be an abundant one, and _vice versa_. Walked out to
Fontí, when I was overtaken by a courier from Mogadór, who brought
letters to the Káïd here, and the Káïd of my own soldiers, and
one from Mr. Willshire to myself; by which I find I am now to go
to Teródánt. A cry of danger has been set up, and hints given me
to leave the country. The governor of Mogadór is to give me three
bullocks, and I am to be allowed to ship haikes and leopard skins,
which is considered a great privilege, but I have refused; and have
sent again to his highness, to ask definitively whether I am to go
or not to Súdán. The fear is that something may happen to me, for
which he will get the blame, as that is the province which barely
acknowledges his power. For my own part, I am better pleased with
the people here than any I have seen in his dominions. The cousin of
Sídí Mabárik Benbey has this day paid me a visit, and requested
me to send a letter for him to London. All the people here are my
friends; and I am sure I could get on if the Sultán would leave me
to myself. I have to wait here a fortnight, imprisoned in the castle
of Agadír, Mashallah!
Tuesday, Mar. 29.—Therm. 66°. As I was going to bed I heard the din
of preparation; my soldiers were moving into the court, and others
placed above, and one in the door-way with his gun. On asking the
reason, I was told a fine story about some bad people outside, who
were determined to lay hold of me, and that they would not allow me
to proceed. I am thus completely a prisoner, and with little chance
of getting away; but I have made up my mind to bear all. The night,
however, passed away without any disturbance. Two soldiers started
for Mogadór, and I went out attended by the Káïd and the four
soldiers here, to Fontí. The whole town turned out to see me. On
our way down I found the same kind of shells occurring, as those
we had seen on the road: they run through the mountain, but take
a different direction to the strata; the latter run N.E., and are
cut by the shells at right angles; I collected several specimens. At
Fontí the population is considerable; the people were quite delighted
to see me, as they hoped I had come in the character of a merchant,
to re-open a channel of commerce, that had been diverted elsewhere:
formerly this was the great depôt of trade. There is a fine bay
here, and good anchorage; and every article of commerce is to be
had twenty per cent. cheaper than at Mogadór. We returned by the
road leading to Tildee: the people here say they could find freight
for two hundred vessels, as all the produce of Súdán, and the oil,
almonds, and gum of Sús, could be shipped here; and that they could
take in return all kinds of English produce, in cloth, iron, &c.,
for which there would be a ready sale. Returned home, when one of my
soldiers, an Issówi, was seized with the devil: it took four men to
hold him down, and prevent him from jumping over the battlements. He
then broke away from us, and throwing himself upon the ground began
tearing himself: I never saw anything so explanatory of the account
in Scripture. The cure is as curious as the disease. They burn some
benzoin under the nose of the patient, which quiets him for a time,
but as soon as the fumes cease, he breaks out again, and lays hold
of every thing within his reach; in some cases he has been known to
destroy children. This poor creature ate several pieces of paper, bits
of lime and dirt; but when the words “Sídí Benel Abbás, Sídí
Abd-el Kádir,” &c.,[84] were pronounced, his hands, which had been
firmly closed, were opened: his companions then called upon Abú to
say the Fátihah,[85] in which all joined; when he came to himself,
although he appeared and talked like a child for some minutes, after
which he quite recovered. The weather beautiful. Visited the ruins,
and bought a dagger. Ordered one of their shirts, which the natives
work very prettily: paid and discharged my muleteers, who are sadly
disappointed at my not going on. Passed an hour with the governor
upon the terrace, talking upon politics and physic.
Wednesday, Mar. 30.—Therm. 70°. Very close; a slight fall of
rain. Not feeling very well, I kept my room. Received a second
courier: wrote answers, and likewise letters to Lord Glenelg,
his Royal Highness (the Duke of Sussex), to Colonel Fitzclarence
(Earl of Munster), soliciting a letter to Hámed Libbú, King of
Tumbuktú. A caravan has been robbed: an extra guard was put on me,
six above, and ten below. There are great fears about me on the part
of the people of Agadír.
Thursday, Mar. 31.—Therm. 72°. Finished my letters, and ordered
the courier to start at day-break; did not retire to rest till
midnight. During the night there were symptoms of the Sumúm; we were
covered with the dust, and almost suffocated by it: the heat this
morning is beyond all conception, the air literally burns one’s
face. The therm. rose in the sun at half-past ten to 128°., and the
one in the bomb-proof battery to 75°., while that, but in the shade,
out of doors, stood at 86°. There is, however, a moderate breeze,
(from the sea), but it is quite overpowering to pass from one side
of the battery to the other. At one P.M. therm. in the sun reached
133°., that in the battery was steady at 90°. Purchased two gold
coins, found in rather a curious manner: a boy was pursuing a young
pigeon through some ruined tombs, in the neighbourhood, and while
he was grubbing out the hole into which the bird had fled, he found
three coins; continuing his search, he threw up several human bones,
and came at last to a perfect skeleton. The Káïd tells me they do
find, at times, coins in the tombs; but these gold Moorish ones are of
uncommon occurrence. Not feeling very well I took some zemítaah:[86]
I like this much, this is the Mogús of Súdán. The heat has been
so overpowering that none of us could move about, not even Abú. At
nine A.M. the therm. was 80°. A large fire is seen blazing towards
the river. Went to rest early.
Good Friday, Apr. 1.—Therm. 72°. No hot-cross buns here. Read
the service. Visited the tomb of Mogonadel, the patron saint of the
place; afterwards took a round at Fontí: went thence towards the
sea, and from thence to what they call their silver mine, which
contains nothing but a few ruins of quartz in the lime-stone and
sand-stone. Dispatched a man to the copper mines for specimens. Wind
E., and much cooler to-day. Started some hares and a snake. It is
said it never rains here, although it does all round. Cohen, and
his boy, are gone to keep the Passover with the Jews.
Saturday, Apr. 2.—Therm. 80°. The heat was so oppressive to-day
I could not stir out: the therm. in the sun 132°., and remained
so for many hours. All of us were done up. We are working in the
house in reducing the baggage, and getting every thing in order to
start at a moment’s notice. Sad accounts are daily coming in of
the people about here; every person who ventures out is robbed and
beaten: several people are waiting here for an escort. I cannot
so much blame the Shilhahs and Súsís;[87] they have been sadly
oppressed by the Sultán’s army; and now it is gone, they are
repaying themselves. They acknowledge no law but that of force,
and exhibit but little trace of any religion: their tribes extend,
with intervals, to the Gambia. This has been a _dies non_.
Sunday, Apr. 3.—Therm. 72°.—A large wolf stole up to the battery
during the night, which roused us all. To-day the wind feels cold, and
there is such a heavy fog that we cannot see the sea; the sun rarely
broke through. There is, at least, a difference of 40°. between
the temperature of to-day and yesterday out of doors, and of 8 to 10
within. Felt not all well, and kept all day to my carpet: beginning
to get tired of Agadír. An arrival from Teródánt, but it brought
no news.
Monday, Apr. 4.—Therm. 65°. Very cold, and a mist equal to
rain. All hard at work in making leather bottles, &c., for the
water. Received a large present of fish. A large Káfilah[88] passed
this morning for Teródánt. Did not leave the battery all day.
Tuesday, Apr. 5.—Therm. 72°. The mist continues heavy, and quite
darkening the air. Not very well; kept within the battery. Alas! all
our bread is gone, and these people eat none; and as it is the
feast of unleavened bread, the Jews cannot make any for me, a
deprivation which I feel not a little. The man was seized again by
the devil. Heard the history of the enchanted castle, and the black
woman, who lives at three days’ ride from this place. Heard likewise
of the Jews, and of the tombs. I must see them on my way to Wád Nún.
Wednesday, Apr. 6.—Therm. 72°. Heavy mist, with rain in the N.W. A
_dies non_.
Thursday, Apr. 7.—Therm. 76°. Beginning to look out for news:
my man returned from the mines; the specimens he brought were very
bad; he found great difficulty in getting any at all. There was a
market to-day, where I bought nothing but a few carrots. Quite tired
of Agadír. Hope two or three days will decide whether I can go on
or not.
Friday, April 8.—Therm. 60°. Very cold. My fingers were so
chilled, that I could not dress myself. At noon a courier arrived;
all is right; wrote my letters, and after detaining the man an hour,
dispatched him again to Mogadór, to say that we should be ready
to start at an hour’s notice. The feast of the Passover finishes
to-day: it has been very cold, with a strong breeze from the N.E.
Saturday, April 9.—Therm. 70°. Day beautiful; but a stiff gale
from the E. This is the clearest day we have yet had here. The
mountains can be seen distinctly: hard at work in arranging bags, &c.
Sunday, April 10.—Therm. 74°. Weather beautiful. Read the
service. A large káfilah is now passing from Sús; the mountains very
visible; in the afternoon there was a repetition of the easterly wind,
accompanied with the dust, which was very distressing.
Monday, April 11.—Therm. 68°. Wind strong from the E. Disappointed
again, as Hájí Majíibí[89] will not start for some days. Our
horses are to leave Mogadór to-morrow, in order that they may be
fresh for the start (‘_Inshállah_’) on Saturday next.
Tuesday, April 12.—Therm. 68°. The wind has got more to the N. with
weather very clear. This delay makes me very fidgetty: besides,
I am so well known here, that various reports have been circulated
about me, which rather annoy me. In the evening, thermometer fell
to 56°, when it became very cold. The horses and mules are to leave
Mogadór to-day.
Wednesday, April 13.—Therm. 60°. A _dies non_. Felt very poorly:
had a touch of the lumbago. Weather variable. Thirst excessive.
Thursday, April 14.—Therm. 70°. Looking out for the arrival of the
horses, as Hájí Majíibí is to start to-day. The people here are
rather too inquisitive, and I am getting rather alarmed. Evening came,
but brought no tidings of my horses, nor has a courier arrived. I
am very uneasy, and all the people here full of conjectures. The
Hájí is thinking only of himself. If he would only consider for
one moment what an object of suspicion I am, while I remain here,
he would hurry on; but no, it is all self in this country. I cannot
bite, and therefore I had better not shew my teeth. Wind got round
to the E. The thermometer fell 11°., when it became very cold. Went
to my carpet rather sulky.
Friday, April 15.—Therm. 70°. This is the first day of the
Mohammedan year 1252. The horses, &c. have arrived. I made my present
to the Sheïkh; got the Sultán’s letter, and one for Sheïkh
Mobarik. A report has reached Mógador, that a party is waiting for
me, who have determined to murder me. The governor here is very
desirous not to let me go. I question, however, if there are any
real grounds for these fears. At half-past seven there came on one
of the severest gales of wind I ever experienced; it threatened the
very fortress: a heavy sea, with lightning in the S.E. The gale from
the N.W. continued to blow hard till half-past nine. This change of
weather may go much against me. I find that I am an object of great
suspicion. A party have sent to ask me to prescribe for a man who
has been bewitched, and is now in a decline. I promised to see him
on Monday, although he lives twenty miles off. This may, however,
do me some good. The people of his tribe offered to bring him here,
but I pointed out the danger of removing him, and hope to gain their
good-will by going so far to visit a Muselmán. Tired, but not sleepy:
no appetite, and out of spirits.
Saturday, April 16.—Therm. 72°. Day beautiful; the gale passed
off without doing any damage. There was one about six weeks ago,
which threatened destruction to the whole place. Despite all I said
about the sick man, they have brought him to-day to Fontí. I had
promised to go down and see him, when the sun was a little lower;
I was scarcely half way down the rock, when I met him on the road;
he was attended by eight of his people, who took it by turns to
hold him on his horse, a splendid animal; the poor Sheïkh, Hájí
Ibráhím, was seriously ill. As he was so far up, I ordered him to
the governor’s, and told his attendants to lay him down, and let him
obtain some rest, previous to my examination of him. I found him in
a sad state, nearly dying to all appearance; he had been frightened,
as they call it, by some spirit, whom, as usual, they had burned out:
he had been fired all over his stomach, which had now lost all its
powers. I gave him a saline draught with tartar acid in effervescence,
and made him a good basin of arrow-root. He no sooner tasted it,
than he put the bowl to his mouth, and nearly emptied it, telling
the crowd, that had now collected to see the holy man, that he had
got at last what his stomach was craving for. I promised to make
him a breakfast on the morrow, and to give him some medicines. By my
treatment of him, I got no little credit; for which I can obtain some
help from him in return. Am heartily sick of this place; although
it has lost all its commerce, it has still a considerable revenue;
it may be considered a frontier town, and is capable of being well
defended; it receives one ducat a-head for all slaves that pass
through it, two ounces for each camel, half a peseta for each mule,
and two blanquillas for each donkey; and as it is in the great road
to Sús and Súdán, these imposts produce a large income.
Sunday, April 17.—Therm. 74°. Had hardly returned from my patient,
when Hájí Majíibí arrived. I repaired immediately to the
governor. All is now arranged for my departure to-morrow, at break
of day: hard at work in packing up. Wrote my letters: dispatched
Cohen and his boy: received a blessing in the synagogue yesterday,
which cost four dollars. I have to part with most of my things, as
I shall be allowed only two mules; the sharks are therefore looking
out for what they can get. I am quite sick at heart at these Moors:
poor ignorant creatures. I have just this moment learned that there
is a town E. of Teródánt, called Tazelt, where there is a Christian
church, in perfect preservation, well finished and painted, but shut
up: it is held in some veneration by the natives, who can only look
into it through the windows. There are also Christian villages in
the neighbourhood of the church. Went down to Fontí; every thing
works well; I am to start as a soldier, accompanying some mules:
took leave of my patient, who is to go with me; but not a soul has
an idea of this. Cohen is very anxious to go on. I have, at his
own request, given him a letter to Lord Glenelg: have packed up
every thing: am in a great bustle. I fear, however, there will be
some detention to-morrow. I suspect the courier has been stopped,
as no escort was visible at sun-set. Laid down to rest, but with no
chance of sleeping, as I am to be up at the earliest dawn, to start,
if possible, to-morrow.
Monday, April 18.—Therm. 70°. Up at four A.M., but did not
get away till seven. I was accompanied as far as the river by the
governor, and four soldiers, Hájí Ibráhím, and our own party;
in all sixteen souls. At half-past eight we came to the boundary of
the district, where a prayer was offered up for the Sultán; after
which, the governor and his party returned. In defiance of all I
said about Hájí Ibráhím’s state of health, he would go on,
or rather his tribe compelled him, to his own house, distant a ride
of four hours. Here we stopped, and had kuskusú and barley-cakes
with butter, and some leben (sour milk). Ibráhím was, indeed,
in a sad state of health.[90] I gave him the medicines I thought
best. The perfect indifference shewn by Hájí Majíbí towards a
fellow-creature quite disgusted me. Had my horse shod, and proceeded
S. to Stúka, attended by a strange semi-devil from the Hájí
(Ibráhím), who told me that I need be under no alarm, as he could
bring one hundred horse into the field, and had promised to protect
me. Crossed the Sús river, which is here a considerable stream,
although twenty miles from the sea. We arrived at a little before
six P.M., at the house of Sheïkh Hamed, who is a fine young man:
he and the people of his town were all out at prayers. The country is
fine, with large plantations of figs and almonds. During the time that
our food was preparing, I was amused with some good ball-firing, the
party standing on one leg or lying down: they are a merry people. We
commenced with bread and butter and honey; then came kuskusú; then
tea till midnight. Abú here received from one of his countrymen some
account of his friends. The pocket-handkerchief is used for the towel
generally, and the corner of the mat lifted up for wiping the nose:
the belching is quite beastly. Passed but a bad night.
Tuesday, April 19.—Therm. 72°. Up at four A.M. and got off at
six. Just before starting, I had the place half-full of patients. I
had been bored to death the night before with questions. One man
was brought to me with a ball in his foot; and by way of assisting
me to cure him, the gun was brought from which the ball had been
discharged. Accompanied by the brother of the Sheïkh and four of his
people, and Hájí Ibráhím’s semi-devil, we reached the Mésah,
a finer river here than at Sús. Its course was S.S.W. We rode along
its banks through a fine and populous district, called Assa, and
crossed it at the great Sók (Tlátah.) Here we met the Sheïkh of
’Akúlí, with twenty horsemen. Our party stopped; it was a trying
moment for me: the two parties held a council, and after some ten
minutes, the muhabbah-bik[91] (welcome) was pronounced. Here Hájí
Ibráhím’s semi-devil was sent back, and one of the other party
took his place, and conducted us to the house of Sheïkh ’Alí at
Tamasert, in the populous district of ’Akúlí, from which the
sea is distant about a half mile. The people here are said to be
very bad characters, and their looks confirm the tale. We had tea
and kuskusú. The Sheïkh was ill, and I was required to cure him,
and a dozen others; but I pretended to be unwell, and with this view
I went without food, for the second day. Some of Abú’s countrymen
came to play and sing to him; and thus kept me awake till midnight:
afterwards the vermin, which were a worse plague than last night,
prevented me from sleeping.
Wednesday, April 20.—Therm. 70°. Heavy rain. Up at five A.M. After
eating and drinking, the people took me out to find a spring;
they had water enough, and so I pretended to point out the spot
where they are to dig. We got off at nine, accompanied by Sheïkh
’Alí. Owing to the rain, we travelled very slowly. I fear that
I have had to pay dear for passing this place. We arrived at the
residence of a great saint. This humbug has the power of taking me
any where through Sús. I bought him for [Blank] dollars. At this
point the Sheïkh left us to return home. The country is completely
cultivated: it is backed by four regular rows of limestone-hills,
which serve as a kind of embankment against the desert. They are
now cutting the corn, which produces more than one hundred fold,
most of the seeds throwing out four stems, and some five. I am not
over-pleased with my conductor, Hájí Majíbí, who, I see plainly,
is making a job out of my journey. We passed the tomb of a great
saint, El Ab, where all the party, but the Káfri (myself) offered
up their prayers. We then entered a pass, which required some hard
climbing. My horse became so lame, that I was compelled to walk
the rest of the journey, a distance of three hours; when we reached
the residence of another great saint. Here they have to prepare a
room for myself, as I cannot be permitted to enter his apartment. My
grumbling to-day has been of service. I have some Tumbucktú quilts
laid over my carpet to serve for a bed. Received some barley-cakes
and honey, but could not eat them; afterwards butter and honey,
and leben (sour milk); but it will not do: a biscuit is the only
food I have taken this day, although I have fasted for three. The
Moors, and Hájí Majíbí amongst them, who had taken some refuse
kuskusú from some labourers on the road, were eating and drinking
till midnight. Not being allowed to enter the room of the saint,
I was put into the garden, until one was prepared. This is the
district of Eit Bamáram. The water is here both bad and scarce.
Thursday, April 21.—Therm. 74°. Weather muggy, with much rain. I
had been promised that I should reach Wád Nún to-day; but after
travelling two hours, having waited till past nine for the Moors to
eat three times, we met a courier from Wád Nún, and we were then
taken out of our road to a house, where we are to stop all day. This,
I am convinced, is owing to Hájí Majíbí not having sent word in
proper time. I am most grievously disappointed, but must bear it as
well as I can; the day hangs very heavy on my hands. A lot of these
beasts came as usual for physic; called me káfrí, and all the rest
of it, but could get nothing to eat. I would not advise any other
traveller to come through Sús: they ask for every thing, but will
neither give, nor even shew any thing. They affect much on the score
of religion; never going in or out, sitting up or standing, without
the Bismillah. At eight P.M. got four eggs, and had some biscuit. I
received a message from the Sheïkh, stating that we are to arrive
to-morrow. This place is Tisseret, famed for its copper mines.
Friday, April 22.—Up at four, A.M., or rather up all night. Vermin
in myriads. Hurried away; and after one hour’s march, stopped for
two more to eat. At length we reached Ifran Ochran, the last town
in Eit Bamáram. Passed the range of mountains in Lower Sús, and
entered Wád Nún. During the route, saw people reaping corn, with
arms by their side. Wád Nún is a large town, with several small
clusters of buildings: it derives its name[92] from a Portuguese
Queen, Núnah. Hence Wád Nún is the valley of Núnah: the place is
distant from the sea a journey of five or six hours. Our first halt
was on the banks of a magnificent stream of water. When we came to the
spring (Agusa), we washed and drank, while the people prayed. A fine
line of hills protects it from the Sahra. We found here the Sheïkh
waiting for us, who took us at once into his house: at half-past
five he gave us a good dinner, which set me all right. I am much
pleased with him. After tea, all the great folks of the place came to
see me: as soon as he had read the Sultán’s letter, he sent for
Hájí Majíbí: when he came back at nine, he said he wanted three
double-barrelled guns, silver-mounted, and the barrels damascened
in gold, together with an air-gun; to which I am to add my brace of
pistols. I talked over all the wonders of England, and then wrote to
Mr. Willshire to tell him what I had done. The Sheïkh assures me,
he will send me without the least danger. I like him much: he has
a large and fine family. I have brought him a handsome present,
and I fear he expects that I shall return this way back: but this
is not in the bond. Abú is very helpless. Here one begins to see
slavery again: the house swarms with slaves, who form a large item
of property. This Berúk is a person of great wealth: he possesses
forty thousand head of cattle, and has never less than one thousand
camels, working between here and Súdán. His eldest son is a fine
young man. Went to bed at midnight, quite done up.
Saturday, April 23.—Therm. 76°. Symptoms of heat. Had my sour
milk, and then unpacked my things. The Sheïkh highly amused with
the pillow, and the little globe firing the guns: he was smoking
and laughing alternately. All goes on well. I was kept up to write
my letters, and they are not yet sent off: these people are so very
dilatory, where they are not immediately interested. Patients are
beginning to come in. The fellows, who were so free on the road, have
come a little to their senses. Lots of patients, and amongst them
a man, who had been wounded sadly. Had the whole of the Sheïkh’s
family with me: gave each of his little children a bracelet. In the
afternoon walked about and round the town: went to the Abú Sebah’s
tents; from thence to the garden, where I saw a fine crop of apples:
saw likewise several _heïries_, both of dromedaries and horses. As
the Sheïkh’s cattle were coming in, I perceived that what looked
like a river, was a very small stream of water: it is the Assaka. The
view from the heights is rather pretty over fields of tobacco and
plantations of date-trees; here and there a garden, and many fine
wells: saw a part of my companions, who are to be fasting to-day,
but we hope we shall have some supper, although I am sick at the
sight of my sable attendants, who have the itch very bad. I shall
have to remain here at least three weeks, although I should be glad
to shorten the time.
Sunday, April 24.—Therm. 76°. I was kept up till midnight grinding
a small barrel-organ; and fainting with hunger, I took at last to the
kuskusú, and got some sleep. This morning my patients have increased,
so that I am obliged to say “hold.” Here the people are really
ill; but so stupid or stubborn, that it is impossible to do them
any good. Gorged to their throats, they sleep half their time away,
and then wonder they are ill. The houses here are better than any
in Marocco, and look like casts[93] in plaster, being built piece
by piece in moulds. These people have no idea of taking a draught,
and they sip the most nauseous medicines. As soon as all are asleep,
I take the opportunity of writing up the journal, and reading the
prayers. This is Sók-day, and no little bustle. I do not feel very
well, the heat is so excessive. We had a capital supper of meat, mixed
with grapes and butter; a strange mixture, but a good dish. A man,
who has got a gold mine here, has come to ask me about it. Great
doings may be expected here to-morrow, as I have given to twenty
persons strong doses of medicine. But they are such fools.
Monday, April 25.—Therm. 70°. Very close; heavy dew through
the night, during which I was called up twice to visit patients,
some of whom are very ill; but I am expected to cure them by merely
looking at them; a most disheartening business. Up early and went
to the garden; returned home, and visited patients. All my cigars
are gone, and I am now manufacturing a pipe. Have the prospect of
being here a month; but I must bear it all, as I am quite in the
power of these people. Walked round the town, which is a large one:
went to the millah; looked about for springs. Am sadly bored. They
will not give me a moment’s rest.
Tuesday, April 26.—Therm. 76°. Very hot, and towards mid-day the
sun was oppressive beyond description. Had a strange request from
Hájí Majíbí, whom I hate: he had the impudence to ask me for
one of my gold watches, although he knows they are worth here five
hundred dollars. I shall put him in the hands of Mr. Willshire,
to whom I shall write strongly on the whole subject. The Sheïkh
had a conversation with Abú and myself this evening, and promised
us every thing we could desire; he assured me that he both could and
would protect us. I felt quite satisfied with this: but later in the
evening, that scoundrel, Majíbí, came and started difficulties;
that there was danger here, and much to be arranged there: he was
not aware of the conversation I had had with the Sheïkh. I was
sadly annoyed, and determined to give him a set-down in the morning.
[Illustration: _Drawn by J. G. Wilkinson Esqre. from a Sketch taken
by the late John Davidson._
_Drawn on Stone & Printed by P. Gauci, 9, North Crest. Bedford Sqre._
_Style of Buildings of Wadnoon._]
Wednesday, April 27.—Therm. 70°. Made Abú write, for he cannot
talk, to this Majíbí, to ask if he meant to say that his party did
not wish me to go on: if so, that I would return, as I cared little
upon the subject, and had a ship waiting for me. He was taken somewhat
aback at this, and admitted that the observations came from himself,
and not from the Sheïkh. I shall write to Mr. Willshire, and give
him my candid opinion of this scoundrel, whose object is to induce
me to give him a bribe for his assistance. I will see him d———d
first. Went out to see my patients, when I was stopped by a marabout,
who humbugged me out of a dollar. ’Tis well to keep on good terms
with these impostors, who possess considerable influence. This journey
will ruin me, and I fear I shall break down. No person can be more
kind than the Sheïkh has been; and but for this blackguard I should
do very well. I must, however, put up with him, and patiently wait
to see how matters will turn out. The people here are a fine race;
they wear their hair generally curled, and are not at all dark;
they are tall in figure, ride upon spare horses without a bit, and
with only a mere rope put round the nose and neck of the animal;
they have fine eyes and beautiful teeth. The majority of those in
better circumstances have one or more of the desert-horses, which are
fed entirely on camel’s milk, and this only every fourth or fifth
day. It is very strange that they know nothing of the Jebel Khal,
the black mountain; Sók Assa is distant only one day’s journey;
Tatta four; Akka five; Tódeny twenty; from this to Arowán is another
twenty; and thence to Tumbuktú seven. There is another route to
Tumbuktú. From hence to Woden or Weddán, the name better known,
twenty days; then to Tishít ten; and to Tumbuktú ten more. Caravans
frequently go to Jennah from Tishít; from thence to Gwalátah,
they say often; thence to Drah in ten days; to Táfilelt in fifteen,
&c. Some of my patients are improving; others giving up medicines
altogether. There is a Muselmán-fast to-day, which is slept away. The
weather has become very cold. The thermometer has fallen 12°.
Thursday, April 28.—Therm. 68°. Some rain has fallen in the
night. I was called up to give the Sheïkh his medicines. It is
perfectly useless doing any thing for people who take five meals
a-day, and pass the rest of their time in sleep; with no exercise
and no employment, but sitting outside their doors or inside their
walls, to see on whom they can pounce. It is really sad to look
upon the two sides of the picture, which this place presents; the
one, the possessors of the soil, the daring, hardy, and commanding
inhabitants reduced to the level of the brute by his indulgence in
food and sleep, with the past forgotten, the future uncertain: the
other subject to slavery in its most abject form. A large káfilah
is expected from Mogadór to-day or to-morrow, and one from Súdán
in a few days. These will enliven us; but I hardly dare venture
out. The Christian is still upon me. The population may amount to
two or three hundred families, together with twelve Jewish, who are
the working classes, and manufacture good guns and daggers, ornaments
in silver, brass, &c. They are also the tailors and shoemakers, and
do the iron-work. The Muselmáns are the intermediate merchants,
or cultivators or breeders of cattle, which are very fine. There
are some Talebs here, and one has written for me a few prayers most
beautifully. Four káfilahs leave this place annually, consisting
each of slaves varying from three hundred to one thousand. At that
time a large encampment is formed outside of the town, where they
collect and prepare for the journey. I have been used most rascally
by Majíbí: I wish I dared kick him. Went out again to look for
water: had a conversation to-day about Christians, whom these people
conceive to have no idea of any religion. I tried, but in vain,
to explain the matter to them. I have evidently some foes here,
because I will not submit to be plucked unmercifully. I should be
left without a penny or a rag, were I to give all, or even half of
what they endeavour to extort from me. I am fairly tired out. The
weather feels very cold. The thermometer is down to 60°. We have
had some rain to-day. I am anxious to get out; but fear I am in for
at least another month, and must bear it.
Friday, April 29.—Therm. 58°. The wind is still east, and all
are suffering from the cold: I feel the effect of it, being but
thinly clad. It tells pretty sharply to a man with bare arms, legs,
and feet. It is a sad state of existence, where no one cares for his
fellow, and throws off a person the moment he ceases to be useful. As
soon as they have got what they want, they care not what becomes of
you. I hope this is not the case with the Sheïkh, who is certainly
a very superior person; but I find I shall have great difficulty in
managing my affairs here. Abú is not competent for this. To-day we
are to have a private conference with the Sheïkh, as soon as all
the persons are gone to the mosque, which is here a mere circle of
large stones. The kiblah is not quite due east, but rather to the
south of it. I wish the Sheïkh was quite well: but it is impossible
to do him, or any of these people here any good, with their five
or six meals a-day, and without exercise of body or mind, except a
constant craving after sensual enjoyments and for gold, gold, which
is always uppermost in their thoughts. The subject of Beïrúk’s[94]
communication was to have an English consul resident at his port,[95]
and to open a trade direct with England; that for this purpose he
would send one of his sons to London to manage his affairs; that by
these means the route to Súdán would be opened at once; the whole
distance be performed in forty or forty-four days, and a large trade
be carried on; that a courier would perform the journey to Súdán in
fifteen or twenty days, according to the heat—more wonderful for
the man than the beast; that England would receive in exchange gum,
almonds, wool, hides, ostrich feathers, ivory, and all the produce
of Súdán, which would find its way to Wád Nún rather than by a
lengthened journey to Marocco. I wrote to Lord Glenelg on the subject.
Saturday, April 30.—Therm. 60°. Wind still east. The Sheïkh now
thinks it will be impossible for me to cross the desert for the next
four months, owing to the great heat. The last caravan-kafilah left
only a fortnight before I arrived, and none go during the summer. I
told him that I ought to be sent on to overtake it. This he promised
to do, if I wished it; but he warned me of the danger of all the party
perishing from the want of water, as all the springs are then dried
up, and the camels cannot carry heavy loads during the hot months. I
have written to Mr. Willshire, and a courier has been dispatched
to Tumbuktú to say that a Christian is coming, accompanied by
the cousin of the King, Hámed Libbú. Hájí Majíbí now finds
that I am too _canine_ for him to be in the same apartment, and
thank Heaven he has removed. I have the utmost contempt for this
beast. The population of this place rather exceeds six hundred,
with great capabilities for increase. The Sheïkh has about four
hundred horse that he could bring into the field. Went to the Millah,
where I saw a very beautiful woman anxious to get away. Her husband
is one of the principal workmen here. Provisions are cheaper than
in any other place. A good bullock may be purchased for 20_s._
to 30_s._; heifers, 15_s._; a sheep, 2_s._ to 4_s._; fowls vary:
I paid ½_d._ each; bread, ¼_d._ per lb.; wheat, 5 to 6 pesetas;
barley, 3 to 4 do. A camel varies in price from 20 to 30 dollars;
a slave from 20 to 100. All accounts are kept in mitcalls.
Sunday, May 1.—Therm. 50°. The people are half killed with the
cold. Read the prayers. Received newspapers from England through
Mr. Willshire, and walked round the garden. The cold was so intense
this evening, that I was compelled to put on two cloaks. The Sheïkh
is still harping upon his favourite project, and complaining that
all his profits go into the hands of the Sultán of Marocco by the
trade through Mogadór.
Monday, May 2.—Therm. 60°. Symptoms of the weather becoming
warmer. This will be a great comfort to me: bare feet and arms feel
the cold too severely. Fasted all yesterday; hope to get something to
eat to-day, as there is a savoury smell of kabábs. It is wonderful
to witness the fear the children have of a Christian. The itch has
broken out with violence amongst the people: I suppose I shall
have my turn. There is one comfort in the cold; it drives away
all the vermin, to which the people here are quite indifferent,
as their skin is so thick, that neither lice or fleas can penetrate
it. The káfilah from Súdán is expected in twenty days. The cold
felt here is not unusual at this time of the year, as our winter is
their hottest season. Am extremely anxious to hear from Mogadór.
Wednesday, May 4.—Therm. 60°. Weather warmer; but I still feel
the cold: went only to the gardens. A part of the káfilah is just
arrived; it made its journey in haste: it brings accounts of a war
between the Fellátahs and Bambári. This will make it rather awkward
for me, should hostilities continue, although I do not pass in the
immediate vicinity of the people of Bambári.
Thursday, May 5.—Therm. 60°. Suffering from a severe cold to-day,
did not go out.
Friday, May 6.—Therm. 68°. It got very warm towards noon. I have
now been a fortnight here, and with every prospect of being detained
a month longer. I am bored to death by the people, of whom the more
I see the worse I like them. Had a visit from Sheïkh ’Ali, and a
part of his tribe: I was obliged to be civil, lest I should have to
return to Suweïrah; as in that case he would protect me. Health but
indifferent, as I can get no peace or quiet from the importunities
of the people here. Three persons have just come sixty miles to ask
me to tell them where the silver is to be found, that they know is
in great plenty about Tamenart. The old mines are not worked; but
the nokrah is in the field (ground). I told them it was impossible
to give an answer without visiting the spot, or seeing some of the
stones from it. If I am to stop to make them all rich, Heaven knows
when I shall come back. As I have the character of a magician, every
dirty devil in and about the place claims a prescriptive right to the
_entré_, and the beasts come loaded with vermin. Took a short walk,
and retired to rest.
Saturday, May 7.—Therm. 70°. Weather beautiful. Feeling myself much
better, I strolled to the water, which is not a river, but a kind of
lake. Met with rhododendrons in full flower, and saw a great variety
of odoriferous shrubs, with an abundance of tortoises. I was followed
by one of the Sherí beggars for money. A nephew of the Sultán has
got off under[96] .........[97] order. The river Assaka is to the
south of the mountains that enclose Wád Nún; but I can gain no
information about it. Sick at heart with my evening parties, which
occur _quotidie_ (daily). Received letters from Mr. Willshire. It
is lucky that we are here: we have done the big wigs.
Sunday, May 8.—Therm. 70°. Weather is becoming quite warm; was
up early, and read the prayers: sent Abú to the Sók, and tried to
purchase a dagger, but it was too dear. The Sheïkh’s son bought
one at night, but it was not equal to the one I had seen. Found a
document relating to the Auléd Deleim, one of the Arab tribes: took
a walk with Sheïkh Ali, whose people returned to a sheep-killing,
&c. I have no chance of sleeping, as they are to leave at day-break.
Monday, May 9.—Therm. 72°. Weather beautiful. The camels are
collecting for the Sók: the best will not fetch more than thirty
mitcals, and good ones are to be bought for twenty. This animal
changes its name every year for the first nine years; but after that
time, it is the jemál. In the first year, and while suckling, it is
el howar; in the second, el ben áshar; in the third, el bellibún;
in the fourth, el hak; in the fifth, el zoa; in the sixth, el thání;
in the seventh, el erba’; in the eighth, el siasí; and in the
ninth, el jemál: the female is called nákah: it has been known to
work for thirty years; after which they are turned out. The Heïri
horse does not cost more than from sixty to one hundred dollars. All
kinds of cattle and food are cheap to a fault. With regard to their
buildings, the rooms are long and narrow, but without windows, as the
doors answer for that purpose; and there they keep their guns, swords,
saddles, powder-horns, &c. Driven out of the room by vermin. At four,
A.M., I commenced washing my clothes.[98] The Jewish gentleman was
offended, that I did not pay him a visit on the Sabbath: after this,
I helped to cut up the sheep, and set about preparing my own food;
but as these people think I dislike what they cook for me, I ate
a little by way of training, and I shall now have a daily dose of
it. Abú gets more helpless daily. I fear he has become religiously
crazy. Walked to the water, and then had a large party in the evening,
which kept me up till midnight.
Tuesday, May 10.—Therm. 76°. The heat is returning again; very
sultry at noon. Saw the Sheïkh’s three wives, and his numerous
family of sons and daughters; they were more pleased with me than I
with them; there were two pretty girls amongst them, but very dirty:
the Sheïkh’s forty slaves, and all the family, were out to see
one of the ladies off. Walked round the whole place, which is larger
than I thought: ascended a hill that commands all the approaches to
the town; it formerly had a fort upon it, and should have it now. On
the east of the town there is a large enclosure, surrounded with
walls, where the great Sók is held. There are twenty large public
ovens for cooking meat and bread; ten smaller ones for fritters,
made of honey and butter; and some for sphynge and kuskusú, and
many matmórs for corn; and a good supply of water.
All are in expectation of this great day, or rather of these three
days. Sidi Hasan, and all the people from the neighbourhood, will be
here. Beyond the enclosure is a very neat tomb of the Sheïkh’s
predecessor, from which there is a good view of the country. On
the plain are many scattered villages, and four extraordinary hills,
distant from each other about one thousand yards. By the last is meant
the mountains which shut in a part of Wád Nún: in the back ground
is a fine range of hills, about one thousand feet high. I am now in
my third week here, with every chance of detention for three or four
weeks longer. I got rid of my evening party by pretending to be ill.
Wednesday, May 11.—Therm. 76°. Weather most favourable for
acclimatizing me for the Sahrá. Went to the house of ’Omar to see
Banna; had two ladies to examine. There was too great fastidiousness
on the part of some, and too little on the part of others: from this
I went to the Millah. My pretty patient is better to-day, but is very
stupid, as they all are: the Jewesses bear away the palm of beauty;
and dirty as they proverbially are, they are cleanliness itself,
as compared with the Arab ladies, whose filth, dirt, and misery,
are dreadful. A consul lives here, which is quite absurd. Received
many blessings. Had some disturbance about my horse: the people are
beginning to find fault, and my food is falling off; nor do they
give the same hearty welcome as formerly: the fact is, one must be
always giving to get on with these people. I took to my haik, and
like it much better than the sulham. I am nearly devoured by flies
by day, and fleas by night. Am pleased more and more with Hájí El
Khirefí, who is to take us, I hear, to Súdán, where he has been
twenty times. My evening party was much better behaved than usual.
Thursday, May 12.—Therm. 75°. Went to breakfast with Solomon
the Jew, whose wife is making up my shirts, and mother washing my
clothes; but such is the fashion of the place. Went some distance
up the bed of the river, which is now quite dry. Nothing is talked
of but Sidi El Rásí and the Moutardi, or the forthcoming great
Sók. Food is very bad, and the meat stinking. Saw a beautiful gun
that was made here; the Sheïkh promises to get me one[99] before I
go. Some rain fell before noon, and it became quite cold, as evening
came on. To-day I had many more lady-patients, as Abú calls them;
their complaints are curious. One is to be fattened up to thrice her
present size. Several wish to know how they are to become mothers:
many want me to give them the powder which Christians have to make
people love them. Eyes to be cured out of number; and as they
are far too many for me to attend to all, I have selected two,
who are very ill, and whom I think I can cure, and I have put the
rest away as incurable. Rain has fallen all round, but has not yet
reached here. The husband of the pretty Jewess has sent to say,
that he shall feel hurt, if I do not breakfast with him, as I had
breakfasted with Solomon. I promised to go to-morrow.
Friday, May 13.—Therm. 78°. Went to breakfast with the pretty
Jewess; her husband is a man of some information. We had too much
to eat: afterwards walked about two miles up the bed of the river,
which, when full, must contain a large body of water. Visited the Arab
tents; on returning, saw some very fine women, but they were beastly
dirty. Morality is here at a very low ebb; the husband prostitutes his
wife, and the father his child; and this is considered no disgrace, if
it is done for a valuable consideration, and not for love. Witnessed
a very disgusting scene with the Sheïkh; he has three wives all
living, but he still likes his slaves: his fourth wife died lately;
she was an Arab of great beauty, for whom he gave two hundred camels,
twelve slaves, and a great quantity of produce. His eldest son is
a chip of the old block, and is running after every woman he takes
a fancy to, the pretty Jewess excepted, whose person is considered
sacred. Three Moors have destroyed themselves for her in a fit of
love, and all come to see her. As she is a patient, I can visit her
daily. I am becoming very impatient, and the people tell me I have a
quick temper: but the fact is, time is no object to the people here;
their care is merely how to waste it; as soon as one meal is finished,
they want to sleep till the time for the next arrives. It is quite
dreadful to see the sad state to which human nature is degraded in
this place. The small-pox has broken out with great violence, and I
have to run the gauntlet without the least chance of escaping from
it. A slave was brought in, charged with attempting to run away;
it appears to have been a little love affair: he was punished by
having a fifty-six pound-weight fastened to his leg.
Saturday, May 14.—Therm. 74°. The poor creature is still chained,
and has not a drop of water, although it is now mid-day. The Sheïkh
should have clean hands before he thus punished others. Went out
again to the bed of the river, and made the round of the Khiesin:
met many beautiful women, if they were only clean. Their husbands
are all gone to Súdán; had to prescribe for some fifty of them;
they wanted me to make their faces of the same colour as my legs and
arms. My watch, rings, &c. were a great object of curiosity with them:
had a little difficulty in making some of them shew their tongues,
which they consider a mark of impudence; they all like to be closely
examined; their figures are perfectly beautiful; most of them were at
work. I had prayers and thanks in abundance. One very merry lass had
on her neck a curious collection: it embraced a little bag of spices
and scents; the nail of a horse-shoe; a leather charm, called horse;
a broken shell; a large glass bead; another horse; a shell again
(habha); a small habha, consisting of a circular piece of agate, and
a large horse at the centre, from which was suspended the horn of a
young ram; and the same things were repeated, forming the circle. Some
of the women work beautiful háïks, blankets, and carpets. In the
large tents are two beds raised on feet, with a cradle, the canopy
for the bride. There are two tents in each inclosure of thorns or
prickly pears. Visited the Millah, and then home.
Sunday, May 15.—Therm. 76°. Had a long conversation with Zeïn,
who was at Tumbuktú when Major Laing was killed.[100] It appears
that Hámed Libbú gave all the protection he could; but that the
Sheïkh, to whose care the Major was entrusted, expected to gain a
large plunder by his destruction. Zeïn had seen also Caillié[101]
several times during his stay there. Things have now changed. The
government is now Fulání. Hámed Libbú killed four thousand
of the Tawáriks in one day, and has quite reduced that tribe to
subjection. These marauders are, however, still in force between
Tumbuktú and Sakatú. A large portion of the former place, inhabited
by the Tawáriks, has been burnt down. Zeïn tells me there is no
chance of my getting to Sakatú. The Wád and the river are both beset
by the Tawáriks. The distance by land is forty days to Jennah, which
is distant from Tumbuktú eight days; from thence to Sansanding and
Ségó four or five days; and from thence twenty days to the source
of the river. To Kóng he did not know how long the journey was;
but it is very distressing, and is all performed on foot. Read the
prayers. Day very hot towards noon. There is a little quiet to-day,
as all the people are out at the Sók; which has been but badly
attended, as there is no arrival from Suweïrah, and the káfilah
will not be here for some days. Walked out and looked at Wesnúnah,
which is about six miles south, and to As-sérir about four east. The
Sheïkh has about forty villages, containing a population, they say,
of twenty-five thousand. My spirits are much depressed to-day. My
position is truly miserable: I am bored to death, and obliged to
submit, through the fear of making enemies amongst savages. I have
scarcely a book to while away the time, and no means of improving
myself, or getting information from others. I have at last learnt
the name of the river; it is the Bontkonman, or, as some call it,
Buatkuman: it is called also Mulasar. The large river that is laid
down in the maps, as the Akassa, runs nearly due east and west,
flowing through the south of Wád Nún to the sea. The river here
comes from Eít-Bamáran, and runs towards the mountains east, and is
lost in the sand. At present there are only a few patches of water,
the stream having failed to a mere dropping spring, which the Arab
tribes consume. I have been much amused with the Arab ladies; their
frankness is quite extraordinary. I shall give away about twenty
dollars to them, as soon as I arrive at Sídí el Rasí: it will
be money well laid out. Had a very pleasant hour with the Sheïkh,
giving him a description of the battle of Waterloo: he said the joy
here was universal, when they heard that the French had been beaten;
for they are detested in these parts. He said that the price of
ostrich feathers had declined terribly; the very same quantity which
could once fetch twenty and thirty mithkáls, could now be bought
for three or four.
Monday, May 16.—Therm. 72°. The day beautiful; all have been busily
occupied for some days past in carrying the corn; the crops are very
heavy; they are now treading it out; camels, horses, mules, donkeys,
and boys, are all employed indiscriminately. I am feeling severely
the effect of hunger: I have now been two days without food, except
some bad bread and eggs. If these people think I am going to beg
for every thing, they will find themselves mistaken. I shall wait
two hours longer, and then send Abú to see if any thing is to be
bought. I had ordered some food yesterday, but I could not get it
cooked. To-day I have received a present of meat, and the Sheïkh
has asked me to drink tea with the party. I am afraid, however,
of being too much with these people. Three-fourths of the whole
population have been inoculated in the left ankle for the small-pox:
how they will manage at the large Sók, I know not. I have been
here nearly a month, and there has not been a single death; this,
in so large a population, speaks much in favour of the healthiness
of the spot. I am anxious for the Sók to take place; for I shall
then know how long I am to stay here.
Tuesday, May 17.—Therm. 72°. Weather close, and air heavy,
and feels very sirocco-ish. A host of people are under a course of
physic. The Sheïkh’s sons have taken up their position in the
garden for the day. Received letters from Mr. Willshire, and some
for the Sheïkh, which I hope will decide the question. I have been
here a month all but two days. Preparations are making for the Sók.
Wednesday, May 18.—Therm. °. The heat is coming on with great
power. Some of the Damání have arrived from Tagakánth, and the
Súdán caravan is expected to-morrow. I walked out to the four hills
leading to the sea. Mashulí is gone to the Sók at Tinzí. From Wád
Nún to As-serír three hours; to Tergezít one day; to Tínzert one
day; to Oúfren two short days; to Tazerwelt, the residence of Sídí
Hasan, two days; to Tinzí three or four days. This line is often
taken from hence to the desert. Visited all the gardens to-day; but
there is not a single vegetable cultivated here, with the exception
of a few onions; fruits, however, such as grapes, figs, dates,
pomegranates, and prickly pears, are in abundance. In some of the
gardens I found one or two apple-trees: but they never wait for the
fruit to ripen. The Sheïkh is rather fidgety, but has said nothing.
Thursday, May 19.—Therm. 76°. It was very cold during the night,
notwithstanding the doors that have been put to my room. There is
an evident change for the better in our treatment: but I am more
anxious about a change of place, and the permission to let us be
moving to the south. Something was said, but not to me, of our going
in about a month. The Sheïkh has evidently something on his mind,
but is afraid to speak out. He is an extraordinary person; I have
never seen such a combination of opposites in any individual: at one
time proud, arrogant, austere, despotic, and occasionally savage; he
then changes his character, and becomes low and grovelling, or else
full of kindness, frank and open-hearted: now severely punishing
his slaves, and now taking the meanest and dirtiest to his arms,
passing at once from finery to filth. Although he thinks nothing of
cooking three or four sheep a-day, yet he will ask for the refuse of
my tobacco-leaves to fill his own pipe. He is much led by others,
and in constant fear about his money. He has a numerous family,
four wives, forty female slaves, and hosts of children in all the
tents, as he is an universal lover. The wretched state of many of his
children is beyond all belief; they are covered with filth and vermin,
and clothed in rags. His hoards of treasure must be very great; and as
much of it is buried, it will be lost, perhaps for ever, should the
owner die without disclosing the place of concealment. The people
are all in a great bustle, preparing for the Sók. The place has
great capabilities, and would yield, were the people of industrious
habits, an immense revenue; but all are afraid of each other. I am
now so changed in appearance, that I hardly know myself. I cannot
master the language. The electrical horse has lost its power since
its arrival here. There is a Sók to-day at Tinzí, from whence the
people come here: none are more anxious for it than I am, and none
will be more pleased at returning home than I shall be at going on. I
have at last resolved, if a delay of more than a month is proposed,
to retrace my steps to Fez, and start afresh _In-shá-llah_! I have
written my journal up to noon; at which period all were looking out
for the káfilah. At two P.M., eight camels and twenty individuals of
the Damání tribe arrived here from Súdán, bringing with them gold,
cloths, and twenty slaves, whose looks were savage in the extreme:
they had a profusion of long black hair, and were half naked; their
lips were remarkably thin, and their teeth looked like ivory; both
themselves and their animals looked sadly haggard, and the whole
affair tended rather to throw a damp upon my feelings and future
movements. I have now told the Sheïkh that I would take no further
excuse: he painted in strong colours the dangers and privations I
must suffer, if I started except with a káfilah; but as none will
move for four months, I determined to commit myself to the care of
Providence, and take merely my guides, our guns and pistols being
our escort, and not to take the road by Taudení and ’Arrawán,
but to strike at once across the desert, and make for our point. Only
one man is said to know the track, and I am to have him. All will
be settled to-morrow, and I shall start one way or the other, after
the Sók. News has been brought of the defeat of the Felláṭehs
by the people of Bambárah, and that Hámed Libbú has come down to
Hamdu-li-llah, which is about 250 miles south of Tumbuktú.
Friday, May 20.—Therm. 65°. It feels very cold, with a strong
wind from the N.W., and heavy clouds. News has been brought by
a second party, that the crops in Súdán have failed; that the
Tawáriks have assembled on the east of Tumbuktú, and that most
of the inhabitants have quitted the city, partly through fear, and
partly to seek subsistence elsewhere. This morning we have heard
more bad news: the Fulání are said to have been again beaten, with
immense loss: some of the female captives have been brought to the
Sheïkh; four as a present: they look well, and are well dressed,
and do not seem to have suffered as much by the journey as their
inhuman traffickers. This is a trying scene for poor Abú, as most
of the captives are from the neighbourhood of the place where his
family reside. The expedition for the slave-market has not been so
fortunate, although the war has furnished an immense number for the
people of Bambárah. My heart sickens at the sight of this horrid
practice. In another lot of these unfortunate beings were six women,
one of whom had given birth to a child on the road, which was thrown
into the bargain. There was an old wretch who had come from Suweïrah
to purchase female slaves: his examination was carried on in the most
disgusting manner. I could not refrain from calling down the curse of
Heaven on these inhuman wretches: in many but little feeling is shewn
for the poor blacks; and they seemed to think less of their own fate
than I did, who was merely a looker-on. One poor creature, however,
who was a finer woman and less black than the rest, shed tears: I
could have given her my dagger to have plunged it in the breast of the
villain who was examining her: and yet these people pray four times
a day, and think themselves superior to all God’s creatures. More
than ever do I wish to get away from this den of hell-hounds. Each of
the grown persons were in the prime of life, and had once possessed
a home, and were more to be pitied than the children, who had never
known the liberty of thought and act. To each of the ten slaves was
given a lunch of bread; while both the inhuman buyers and sellers,
after chuckling over their bargains, went to offer up their prayers
to Heaven, before they took their daily meal. Can such unhallowed
doings be permitted to endure longer? Oh! spirit of civilization,
hither turn your eyes, and punish the purchasers, who ought to know
better; for thus only will the sale be stopt. At length something has
been settled definitively with the Sheïkh: I am not to wait for the
káfilah, but to proceed with a few camels and five guides, the whole
of whom I am to pay for; and we are to take the courier’s track,
by which we shall reach Tumbuktú in forty days from starting. I am
to leave this place ten days after the Sók. So far so good.
Saturday, May 21.—Therm. 66°. Wind still very strong. Parties
are coming in for the Sók. Another small portion of the káfilah
has arrived: the main body is expected here on Monday. Walked the
entire circuit of the town, and visited the burial-ground, which is
the prettiest I have seen in this country. Most of the graves are
planted with flowers, and all are kept in good order. The tomb of
Sídí El Kádí is very neat. Coming round by the gardens, I met
some of the Damánís, who are anxious to take me on. Had a visit
from a Sheïkh, who has just returned from Tumbuktú, where he has
resided many years: he has been two months on the road, his camel
being a weak one. Feel in much better spirits to-day.
Sunday, May 22.—Therm. 70°. Weather beautiful. Read the
prayers, and kept the house till three P.M. Another arrival from
Tumbuktú: they were two persons of consequence upon white camels,
and four others on their eshreb el ríhhs;[102] all were in good
condition. They say that the káfilah will be here to-morrow. I
am half-famished.
Monday, May 23.—Therm. 72°. The heat is increasing. Parties are
arriving from all quarters for the Sók. News was brought this day,
that the káfilah had been attacked by the tribe of Erdebát. The
people of Tagakánth went out against them, and have taken from
them one thousand camels, five hundred horses, thirty slaves,
and all their arms, and have driven them towards the sea: this
will make the káfilah one day later in its arrival here. Took my
walk towards Agadír, and went afterwards to the Arab tents. Felt
not very well. Am anxiously looking for the káfilah from Mogadór,
which ought to have been here to-day, and is now looked for shortly
after sun-set to-morrow.
Tuesday, May 24.—Therm. 76°. Weather melting towards the middle of
the day. Went to look at the preparations: they are well arranged,
and upon a large scale. The Sók are our fairs; the road exhibits
one line of camels, horses, mules, and donkeys, the Sheïkhs vying
with each other in the number of their attendants. The bulk of the
Súdán caravan is not yet arrived, but expected at day-break. All
here are very civil to the Súdán people; and all are anxious for
me to go on. The Moors are just as jealous of hearing the name of
Súdán mentioned. I sat on the ground, first with one party, and
then with another, and heard from both the same story about their
gold and silver mines: the brass, they talk of here, is iron pyrites
and copper pyrites. I have received many invitations. The slaughter
of cattle for to-morrow is immense: we have five sheep killed for
the consumption of one day at this house; the public kitchen is
all busied in preparing kuskusú and other eatables. The noise is
beyond every thing I ever heard; nor must I expect any rest for the
next three days and nights: the thing is really worth seeing. Of the
whole mass of people collected together, I am the only individual
not personally interested in it.
Wednesday, May 25.—Therm. 76°. The great gathering for the Sók
still going on. I was kept up nearly the whole night by a strange
creature from Dar’ah, whose wife had run away from him. He is
convinced, from what he has heard, that I am a magician, and can give
him a charm, that will not only bring the lady back, but will make her
love him. Nothing I could say would persuade him to the contrary. I
gave him one of my verses from the Koran, of which Abú wrote an
explanation, and which I finished by ..................... and some
figures; this he carried to the Sók, and I had lots of applicants:
the man is perfectly satisfied, and says that he now cares little
about buying or selling. The Sók is a scene highly interesting:
here are to be seen tribes from all parts, and individuals from all
places. The great káfilah from Súdán has not arrived, but yet there
are above twenty thousand men and animals, and many more will be here
by the opening. To-morrow ten sheep will be killed for this house,
which is like a booth at a race; my own room not excepted. I have here
thirty guns, ten of the best saddles and bridles, powder-flasks and
bags out of number. Abú was employed for two hours in making tea for
my visitors. Not the least chance of sleep: all are in good humour.
Thursday, May 26.—Therm. 72°. During the whole night the house has
been like a bear-garden. My patience was quite exhausted by the number
of patients. Went to the Sók; it was a curious sight; but finding
that I took off the attention of the buyers too much, I was returning
home, when I met the great Fakír Sídí Mohammed. The influence of
this man is quite extraordinary: he took me to every stall through
the mart for the camels and horses; then to the kitchens; the crowd
that followed us was immense. I had been grossly insulted in the
morning, and threatened to shoot a fellow; and had given tongue,
as far as I could, to six others, when a man forced his way through
the crowd, and after kissing the Fakír, and whispering something
in his ear, I was immediately hurried home; when I was there, I
was told that my life was in danger, and advised upon no account to
stir out again to-day. I observed two or three ill-looking fellows,
who, I believe, were only kept in check by the Fakír, who told me
that many a hand was on the _kummiyah_.[103] So much for the great
Sheïkh Beïrúk’s power. I will give him a pill to-night. The
Sók is considered a poor one.
The káfilah from Súdán having been attacked, and driven out of
its route, has not arrived. The people of Tagakánth are not here,
and others, from ten other places, are absent; while the people of
Erdebat dare not come. Had they all arrived, they would have made
the Sók twice as large. I have made up my mind to be contented with
what I have seen, and I shall not go out to-morrow. This is a poor
return for the trouble I have been at amongst these people. I am sick
at heart with them all. I have been most outrageously insulted this
afternoon, and which has been repeated with interest. In the evening I
wrote to Mr. Willshire, to tell him I must abandon the thing. I have
also told Sheïkh Mohammed my mind pretty freely, and I shall wait
till Saturday, and then take my steps one way or the other: bear the
thing any longer I cannot. It was curious to see slaves dressed up,
and placed amongst the goods. The Marabouts[104] were very numerous;
one strange figure on horseback especially collected a good deal of
money from the gazing fools.
Friday, May 27.—Therm. 78°. Kept my word as to going out; took
some bread and tobacco, and went off to the bed of the river,
where I found a snug hole, surrounded by Oleanders, into which
I crept, and passed there three hours very pleasantly in reading
five of the satires of Horace. Saw persons passing and repassing;
came out, and reconnoitring, could easily perceive that they were
looking for me; there were three sets on horseback, and four and
five in pairs, on foot. As soon as all was clear, I crept away to
the part they had left, and was nearly suffering from it: the sun
was intensely hot; suffocation came on, the pulse rising to 140°,
or scarcely perceptible. I had no lancet, or on recovery should
have bled myself. As I found myself sinking, I became alarmed, and
bent my way towards home: on my arrival I found the Sheïkh was in
a great stew, and had sent persons in every direction to find and
bring me back. I was very ill, and driven nearly mad. Abú makes so
bad an interpreter, and is so fearful of speaking out, that I am in
a sad position. Did not go near the Sók. I have determined to make
an example of one or two, and that will make the rest quiet. Starved
myself the whole of the day, and took some medicine.
Saturday, May 28.—Therm. 76°. Morning cloudy, and appearance of
rain. Find all the people more on the alert this morning, except poor
Abú, whom I have been scolding to get rid of a little of my own bad
temper. Feel very poorly to-day, and shall adopt the starving system
again. The Sók finished to-day at noon; and all the roads are now
crowded with persons returning home. Upon the whole it has been a
failure, as the káfilah from Súdán did not arrive, and many of the
tribes kept away through the fear of the small-pox. Sídí Hasan,
the great star, did not make his appearance; and his brother came
with very little style. I have written very strongly to the Sheïkh,
complaining of the treatment I have received, and have determined to
go on or back; I care not which: no common stock of patience could
alone bear what I have had to suffer. These are without exception
the most strange and savage people I have yet seen; they are without
government, laws, or honour, and with no trace of feeling, except on
matters connected with money-making, eating and sleeping. Any man may,
and often does, shoot another out of mere caprice. The only persons
not exposed to the dread of this fate, are the Marábuts and Saints:
the Sheïkh, rich and powerful as he is, dares not shut his door
against the dirtiest beast who thinks proper to enter. The kuskusú
or tea-pot is a general invitation, and any and all may come in and
feed. The Sheïkh is sadly annoyed at my letter: and my carrying
matters with so high a hand will do some good: much, however, as I
grumble and threaten, I must bear all. To return is impossible, and
the danger of getting again through Sús is worse than all that the
desert can present. A party, as usual, to drink tea in my rooms. Abú
is quite disgusted, and poor Mahmúd and Seïd are in tears: they
are the only two persons in the place who have a grain of feeling.
Sunday, May 29.—Therm. 78°. Got up very ill, and in bad spirits,
and worse humour; took physic again, as my head is very bad. In
consequence of having so many patients, who are returning from the
fair, I have taken my Bible and Prayer-book to the garden, and locked
myself in, where I read the service, and afterwards got a good sleep,
and returned home in the evening much better. Abú tells me that
the Sheïkh is very uneasy that I am ill, and am so dissatisfied,
and that my conduct has cut him to the quick. A large arrival from
Súdán of ivory and gum: one fair is hardly over before another
begins. The people of Súdán are better than those of Wád Nún:
their haggard looks belie their feelings; all of them are my friends,
and I only wish that they and we were moving southwards: I would
give any thing to get away. A party again to tea.
Monday, May 30.—Therm. 72°. We have had a bad night; a violent
wind from the N.W. has given us all the rheumatism and lumbago, which
the people are working off. Preparations are making for the káfilah,
which is to start to-morrow for Suweïrah: all the guests are, thank
God, gone. During the time of feasting all our best crockery was
brought out: the highest guests were served in a wash-hand basin,
and a certain other utensil was considered one of the most useful
pieces of ware, from its having a handle: they could scarcely believe
me, when I told them its use in Europe, and that extravagance had
led some people to have it made of silver. Abú told them that the
King had one of gold. I was not so much astonished at its use here,
as we had our wine out of the same kind of vase at the house of
the British agent in Marocco. A Jew was brought up for theft. The
Sheïkh at length tells me that he has written to Tagakánth; this has
raised my spirits, and I feel better; have starved for three whole
days. The whole place is so full of ivory, feathers, gum, and wool,
that it is difficult to get about: the natives are much surprised
that I am not preparing to go back: I have, indeed, a difficult game
to play. Five hundred sheep and goats were slaughtered for the fair;
and the quantity of kuskusú and other eatables was immense.
Tuesday, May 31.—Therm. 78°. A quiet day, and a day’s quiet is
quite a rarity. Did not leave the house; had some conversation with
the Sheïkh, who seems to waver; still talks of the danger of the
journey, and is desirous to detain me here. I have determined that he
shall write to Tagakánth; if the expense is now to be exorbitant,
I must wait for the kafilah, and go with Zeïn. Had I gone at first
to him, I might have saved five hundred dollars. A young camel was
killed for a feast to-night: I was so sickened at seeing some of
the Arabs, and amongst them a relation of the Sheïkh’s, who took
a large piece of the hump, and ate it raw, that all my appetite was
gone for the night.
Wednesday, June 1.—Therm. 78°. It became excessively hot towards
noon. At half-past two P.M. the thermometer in the sun stood at
120°. Walked out and visited some Arab women; one of them had been
brought a ten day’s journey across the desert, merely for me to look
at her. The people of her tribe told her that I had given away all
my medicines; but I could still look at her, and order some change in
her diet; and she, poor thing, fancies she shall still recover. They
would have me eat some dates, the largest and finest I have ever
seen. Took my usual walk. The Sheïkh and I get on much better,
although there is but little chance of my proceeding, as the people
of Tagakánth are carrying on a fierce war with those of Erdebát:
but as the Sheïkh’s káfilah is detained in the Sahrá, I hope
he will have to send for it; and this may be the means of helping
me off. Got all right again, thinking of Horace’s expression—
“Qui semel aspexit, quantum dimissa petitis
Præstent, mature redeat repetatque relicta.”
This is nearly my case.
Thursday, June 2.—Therm. 76°. Strong wind N.W. Went out to
the mountains, and saw the bed of the Sey yad, which takes the
name of Assaká, after passing the town of Asserír. The man who
accompanied me said, that the Wád Dar’ah run into the sea at
two day’s journey S. of Wád Nún; and four days beyond this,
there was another river running from the Sahra into the sea. The
town is now quite quiet. I feel anxious for the Sók Molud, which
will take place in a few days, and then the Damánís will come
here. No account of the káfilah.
Friday, June 3.—Therm. 80°. _Dies non_. I was hardly in bed,
when one of the slave-boys fell from the roof of the house: they
were going, I believe, to let him lie and die. I got him washed,
when I found that he had broken his right arm and lower jaw; had
knocked his teeth out, and his lower lip half off; the right knee,
too, was dreadfully cut. I could hardly get these savages to point
out a place where to lay him; all seemed to think he would not
be saleable, if he recovered. I set his arm, bound up the jaw,
and sewed up the laceration in his knee, and took off a part of
the lip. I fear they will not pay the least attention to the poor
little creature, who has been the most useful and hardest worked
of the whole lot. I could hardly get warm water to wash and examine
him. What my fate would be in the event of an accident, I may judge
from this. I heartily wish I had never come near the wretches.
Saturday, June 4.—Therm. 80° and got up to 90°, at two P.M. when
it was 123° in the sun. This is the hottest day we have had;
for though the solar heat was greater at Agadír, we had not near
so great a degree of heat in the shade. The poor boy is very bad:
it appears that he was literally beaten off the roof by the beast
Sudy Salaam. One of their own doctors has taken off my bandage, and
displaced the bones. I have now done with him; yet poor creature he
could be left to die even for a drop of cold water, but for Abú and
myself. I wish some of the people to meet with a similar accident,
and they should have taunts enough from me. Went out to see the La’b
El Bárúd. There were but few riding, except Arabs; who rode very
well. Returned home looking anxiously for the post to-morrow.
Sunday, June 5.—Therm. 84°. Read the prayers; and afterwards
cleaned out my room, this being the only day when I can venture
to do it, as the people are all at market. The heat has increased
excessively. At half-past two P.M. the thermometer was 95° under the
corridor. The solar heat is unbearable. The poor boy is suffering
much. The person who came from Marocco, calling upon the tribes to
arm, is already returning. Foolish people. I recommended the Sheïk
to have nothing to do with the matter, but to send his produce
to Suweïrah, as soon as possible, as I feared the port would be
blockaded.
Monday, June 6.—Therm. 88°. We were to have started this
morning; but there is now no chance till the káfilah departs. How
I am to exist here for two months longer I know not. The heat
is excessive. Thermometer in the shade 100°: the very water is
warm. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, to send me a courier by express, on
whose arrival I may ground my application to the Sheïkh for some
definite arrangement.
Tuesday, June 7.—Therm. 86° up to 100°, in the corridor. Too hot
to move out: wrote all day. In the evening a set of niggers arrived
from Tumbuktú; they kept the whole town alive and awake through
the whole night with their music and singing: we had a picked lot
here, and some Arabs, who sung with great effect, beating the ground
with their hands by way of accompaniment: one lad had a very fine
voice. All their songs were extemporaneous: one was made to suit
me and my situation, and their opinion of my chance of success. As
I cannot see to write till day-break, I have determined to try if
I can get some sleep, despite the great noise. These people know
nothing of hours; they eat, sleep and pray, when it suits them: they
only regard the number of times each of these acts are performed in
one light and one dark, as they call the day.
Wednesday, June 8th.—Therm. 85°. The whole place has got so
baked by the heat of the three days, that they say it will not feel
cool again for the next three months; that every day will be hotter
and hotter till the houses and ground crack, when there will be a
change. Too hot to stir out: I am getting very dissatisfied.
Thursday, June 9th.—Therm. 88°, at midnight 95°. Walked out to the
lime-stone mountains: from this spot a pretty picture might be made of
the town with the gardens; to the east the tomb of Sídí El Rází,
and before it the Sók; the game of La’b el Bárúd at the back
of Mes’úd’s house; on the west the heaps of corn with camels,
mules, donkeys, and boys treading it out, and others winnowing with
a shovel. Four black ladies have visited me to obtain a charm: the
first wants something to make every one love her; the second that
her piccaninnies may live; the third to know who ever has spoken
ill of her; and the fourth to be made happy. The medicines have not
yet arrived, but are to come next week. The heat is excessive. Some
arrivals from the desert; but no hopes of our getting away.
Friday, June 10.—Therm. 85°. To-day our kuskusú was enlivened
by a pumpkin, the only vegetable we have now had for seven weeks,
except our daily onion: the pumpkin was a present, and had travelled
far. Things are improving, if these hogs would only let Nature take
her course. Last week they stripped the only apple tree in the
place of the fruit, which was just formed, and to-day they have
done the same to two apricots, because the heat of the few last
days had just begun to turn them yellow. The grapes are eaten when
they are as hard as stones, because each is afraid that another may
get them. The heat is more oppressive than ever. The Sheïkh and all
our party are in high spirits, in consequence of the arrival of some
good news from Senegal.
Saturday, June 11.—Therm. 86°. Heat very trying through the whole
day. I was asked whether the sun shone in England, and whether we
had the moon and stars like those seen here? They would not believe
me when I told them that the same stars they saw me looking at last
night where just over the house in which I lived in London, and
that we called them the Great Bear, and spoke of its tail, head and
legs. I surprised them much by pointing out several constellations
to them. Went only to the garden. Cannot get my letters taken to
Suweïrah. Am most anxious to have matters put into a train.
Sunday, June 12.—Therm. 86°. Read the prayers, and finished
poor Bruce: was much struck with many points of resemblance in our
cases. Felt not very well, and did not leave the house: witnessed a
sad scene in the evening. Some money had been stolen, and the slaves
in the town were charged with the theft: one poor creature was tied
up by his heels, his head bleeding profusely from a blow he had
received whilst being brought here. In this position he was stripped
and flogged with some plaited cow-hide over his legs and back: after
hanging for half an hour, he was let down; when others were brought
in to undergo a similar punishment. But my nerves could not stand
it. The heartless wretches seemed, however, to enjoy the writhings
of the poor creatures, whose misfortune it is to be black. Sick
of the scene, I retired to my hole, and did not go out again. At
night Abú told me they were released, lest the people here should
be disturbed by their cries for water. The poor creatures had been
under torture for some time, and stated they had not had their food,
when they were brought here; and what is more horrible, some women
were amongst the number. No regard, however, is paid to sex. The poor
blacks are all káfirs in the wise judgment of these chosen people.
Monday, June 13.—Therm. 80°. It felt cold during the night, and
this morning it is cloudy and oppressive. I feel hardly recovered
from the disgraceful scene of last night. The Tagakánth people
have at last arrived. I wish I had got my letters from Suweïrah,
as this would be a good opportunity for speaking on the subject;
although I would now rather wait for Zeïn and the káfilah, which
would be better on the score of safety; besides the rains would be
nearer their close. The unfortunate delay at Gibraltar has done all
the mischief. These people were the van of the great Súdán káfilah,
which has now arrived with more than three hundred camels: the rest
have remained at ’Akká, Tagakánth, &c. About eighty persons have
arrived with it. Never did I meet with any people who gave me so
complete an idea of savages. Their bodies are a mass of dirt, and
their wan eyes are sunk in their heads; their teeth of pearly hue
seem starting from their gums. They wear the hair long and in large
quantities, some curled and others plaited. Half-dyed blue with the
khoart, and half famished, they present a revolting exterior. But
never did any people improve so much upon acquaintance. I had
seen the Pindarí horseman in India, the Leoni savage in Arabia
Felix, the Wahhábí in Yemen, the ’Abábdeh and Bisháré in
Arabia, Petræa and Egypt; but all these have a great advantage in
appearance over my friends the Damánís. The káfilah brought large
quantities of ivory packed in skins; about four, six, or eight teeth
on each camel ............ looking like small canoes; many loads of
reïsh ostrich feathers; one hundred camels laden with gum, packed
in hides, through which sticks are passed, and they are then slung
like panniers on the back of the camel. Several Tamar[105] dates and
a few bales of Súdán cloth: the camels that carry the gold have
each a man riding to take charge of it. As soon as the animals were
unloaded, the twenty Damánís came to the Sheïkh’s house, where
they devoured a sheep with nearly half-hundred weight of kuskusú,
and a camel-load of ripe mashmash (apricots), and then all lay
down to sleep: in about an hour they got up and shook themselves,
and then came in a body to see the Nazarene. I had some difficulty
to keep myself from being smothered by them. The Sheïkh Kheisfer
came to drive them away; when one, who seemed to have some command,
said, “Nazarene, we are wild Arabs; none of us have ever seen a
Christian; we know you are a great man; if our coming thus to you
offends you, we will go; if not, astonish us. You are a magician;
shew us some fire.” I lighted some tinder from the sun with my
glass; and then shewed them my small globe, telescope, watch, pistols,
&c. afterwards a lucifer-match; and, lastly, I set fire to my finger,
dipping it in spirits of terebinth. This was too much for them:
they became alarmed; I then got my sword, &c. afterwards gave them
snuff: they all smoked my pipe, and when that was finished, and I
had examined all their eyes, and given many of them medicines, and
would not take money for it, I was told I had only to say ‘Resúlí
Mohammed,’[106] and go any where. This was the general wind up,
and La’b el Báród finished the day: and as the evening saw my
rooms filled again with these wild men, I was fairly tired out.
Tuesday, June 14.—Therm. 76°. It felt so cold in the night, that I
was obliged to put my cloak over me. Day had hardly dawned, when Abú
called me up to write to Mogador: my door was instantly beset by my
Damání friends, all asking for He jjám (Physician). The intense
curiosity of these people forms a striking contrast to the apathy of
the Moors. They, however, overdid the thing, and I was compelled to
order them all out. The Sheïkhs ’Alí and Hámed then visited me:
they said they were the sons of the great Sheïkh of Taghakánth,
and hoped I would allow them to come in, and they would not sit upon
the carpet. From both of these intelligent persons I learnt many
particulars respecting the route to Tumbuktú. They said they had
been fifty days coming from Jennah, but they had often done it in
less: the last time they were only forty-four days, allowing for
halts; they say there are three roads to Tumbuktú; from hence
to Waddán twenty-five days; but it can be done in twenty-two
with light loads; from thence to Tishíṭ in thirty-five, if a
person were a good traveller, and would go direct to that place,
but by Waden he would want rest; from thence to Walátah ten days,
and fifteen from thence to Jennah. The time will be the same by the
other route to Tumbuktú; from hence to Taudenní twenty-five days,
where one must halt; thence to ’Arrowán ten days, and stop again;
from thence to Tumbucktú, five or six days; but the whole distance is
sometimes performed without stopping: and this the Sheïkh Beïrúk
says I must do for safety. The situation of Tumbuktú, as far as I
can understand the account given by the Sheïkh’s sons, is very
different to what is laid down on the map. They gave a flattering
account of Hámed Libbó; that he has recovered from all his losses,
and has an army of 100,000 men, in good order, and that one of his
hands is stronger than both of the Sultán of Marocco: I have made
great friends with these people. In the afternoon I was honoured with
a La’b el Báród. I find I am obliged to keep myself somewhat like
a prisoner, through the fear of some Moors here. I have a bad foot,
and besides am suffering from a disappointment. My party have not
refused, but are afraid of proceeding. My expenses too have been and
are still very great, and with little chance of their being lessened:
should the money from England not arrive, I am a lost man; hence, I
feel no little anxiety for the letters by the packet. The great Sók
(Sók el Múlíd)[107] commences to-morrow; it is called Sók Aksa
in the map, is distant twenty-two miles E. from hence, consequently
the town of Nún is given incorrectly, for it is twenty-five miles
E. of the sea. The river flows to the S. of it, the Búkukmán runs
E.S.E., and then turns S., and joins the large Sayád, which flowing
W. past Assaká, there takes that name, and empties itself into the
sea. Three days S. of the Assaká is the river of Dar’ah, which is
said to run into the sea, at a point, three days distant from this
place, and that all the country on the N. bank, and a slip on the S.,
is brought into cultivation. From the Sheïkh’s sons I learnt also
that each ostrich yields from five to ten pounds of feathers; the
young ones produce the least quantity: hence the birds average about
seven pounds. The usual number of eggs found in a nest is fifteen,
although most of the birds lay twenty. The Shérb el Ríh[108]
(drinker of the wind) generally comes up with the birds on the second
morning after being put upon the track; they kill them with short
heavy sticks, about two feet long, and in most cases skin the birds,
many of which arrived here quite perfect; the feathers are packed
in bundles, secured by pieces of the neck of the skin of the bird.
Wednesday, June 15.—Therm. 76°. Weather much cooler. The Damánís
are beginning to feel the difference of food. The slaves were
astonished that I did not drink hot water (tea) to-day, as well as
the others. Foot very sore.
Thursday, June 16.—Therm. 75°. All employed in putting a lock
upon my door, as my room had been robbed. There has been a fight
among the Jews: it arose from my giving the preference to the chief
Jew for making some bread: his mother-in-law has been cruelly beaten:
all are in arms and in a great passion. The people with the small-pox
are walking about, sad figures; the only remedy used here is a small
piece of stick, one end of which is covered with common tar, and
occasionally forced up the nostrils.[109] I have now been here two
months, and there has not been a single death out of a population
of seven hundred grown persons, with hosts of children. The weather
has become much cooler. Had another row about my food. I am almost
starved. Mahmúd cut his stick[110] to-day. The sick are increasing,
and I am heartily tired of them. Not over well myself.
Friday, June 17.—Therm. 72°. The change of temperature has been
felt severely. I learnt this morning that the Jews’ quarrel arose
from the jealousy of making my bread, and washing my clothes. A
strange sort of justice is administered here; the beaten has been
fined seven ducats, and the beater eight, because he was the richer
person. I dare not intercede for my beaten friend; and were I to pay
the money for him, he would be compelled to pay it again when I leave
this place. All gone to the Jennah, but the Sheïkh, who is again
demeaning himself with the poor and much to be pitied slaves. Would
to God I could get away from this den of infamy and villainy: I see,
however, but little chance of doing so. The Arabs, who the Moors
call savages, are a superior race of beings to the wretches here. The
son of the Sheïkh of the Damání told me plainly this morning that
he would not ask Beïrúk even for bread to make a poultice, which
I have recommended him to apply. I have no bread myself or I would
give him some; and after this row amongst the Jews, I shall be worse
off for food than ever. I received a dinner, but it cost me a dollar;
which is rather dear living. Sheïkh Mohammed has rather offended me.
Saturday, June 18.—Therm. 75°. Morning hazy, and feels
scirocco-like; it became very hot towards the middle of the day. It
is the glorious anniversary; how will it go off in London after a
peace of twenty-one years. Hámed Damání is quite recovered, and
the Sheïkh’s eyes are better: the latter cannot understand how
some small pills should make his mouth sore. Patients out of number,
and myself out of temper, looking most anxiously for letters from
Mr. Willshire, which now must be on the road. Under any circumstances,
I cannot expect to get off in less than a month; but only let that
be certain, and I shall be satisfied. Hope my letters from England
will arrive at the end of this month. I try but in vain to study. The
house is a perfect bear-garden; the room very dirty, and I dare not
venture to clean it: my things, once out of doors, would all go to
rack. These people and the Arabs from the desert, have no sort of
idea of time, nor have they any thing to distinguish night from day:
the only regularity is respecting the number of the times of prayer,
ablution and eating: they sleep, eat and drink, as nature prompts
them; and are always ready, if an extra bowl of food is brought. I
am tired to death.
Sunday, June 19.—Therm. 80°. All are hard at work in packing up
for the Sók Múlíd (Sok Assa), to which they go to-morrow. Another
disgusting scene took place in the court-yard this morning. A fine
woman was pulled about, and exposed amidst the jeers of all these
beasts: as she was handsome, the price asked was 150 mithkáls; but
none would offer more than 130. As the bargain was being concluded
for some Aj and Reïsh, there was a short deficiency to make up;
which, after much cavilling, was settled by throwing in a little
boy. This was, indeed, a sad scene for a Sunday morning. Went to
my den in disgust, where I read the prayers, and kept out of sight
the rest of the day. The place is crowded with strangers. Spoke very
strongly to the Sheïkh about my detention; he assured me that he was
only consulting my safety; that in eight or ten days all arrangements
would be completed, and begs of me to be patient.
Monday, June 20.—Therm. 76°. The house is comparatively quiet: most
of the party are gone to Sók Múlíd. Had a quiet day, throughout
the whole of which there was a cool breeze from the N.W. The sun
set in a heavy bank running along the whole of the horizon.
Tuesday, June 21.—Therm. 68°. Up at one A.M. to take observations,
&c.; the night was very clear, and the bank disappeared in the W.;
the wind was N.W., with heavy clouds in the S.; the mist lowered to
the tops of the houses: a heavy rain in the S.W. by W., but clear
towards the N. At nine A.M. all the place was in commotion, and the
Sheïkh and his people were off on horseback in different directions,
to look for a thief, who got into the yard of the house last night,
and stole the Sheïkh’s favourite white horse. The Sheïkh’s son
has returned, but the Damánís and others are in full chase. The
stolen horse was one of great speed, and the thief had eight hours
start. It will be interesting to know when the Damánís will come
up with him; they have got their Shérb el Ríh; have looked at the
print of the horse’s feet and his dung, and they will be sure to
trace him by either sight or scent: like the B’híls in India,
if they once see the track they never lose it. At ten P.M. one man
returned, who stated that the Damánís said the horse had stopped,
and they would now find him before morning. The man who brought this
intelligence had ridden sixty miles, without intermission, on a mere
bag of bones. The horses from here are not like the Shérb el Ríh;
they are knocked up after five hours’ work: but the animals were
all fresh when this man left them. My horse was to have gone with the
rest; but as the brute of a son of the Sheïkh Mahmúd had thrown him
down, being a very bad rider, and had broken both his knees, I would
not let the poor creature go. The Sheïkh Beïrúk says, he would
have kept up with the best of them; and I know that those of Hámed
Damání, of Hájí Ibráhím, of Sídí ’Alí, of Zeïn, and of
Habíb, can go for three days. I should certainly have liked mine to
be tried. But his state was not such as to warrant the experiment;
although the people said that he would go just as well with broken
knees as sound ones. No post arrived.
Wednesday, June 22.—Therm. 70°. Heavy and lowering; got cold
towards the afternoon. Feeling unwell kept the house. No post.
Thursday, June 23.—Therm. 80°. The Damánís returned late
yesterday, and without the horse, which they say is concealed
somewhere. It had not gone beyond the place they reached; they
supposed it had its shoes changed, and was taken to Sók Múlíd,
where a party was dispatched this morning. The lock of the door of the
Sheïkh’s house was picked by means of some hard paste of flour and
water. The locks are all of wood, and the fastening consists of three
or four small pegs of wood, which fall into corresponding holes. By
forcing in the paste, the pegs were thrown up, and the door opened
without any noise, and the horse stolen. The Sheïkh was more vexed at
its happening during my stay here, than at the loss of the animal. I
am out of health, spirits and temper. Kept my room the whole day.
Friday, June 24.—Therm. 80°. In the evening, after an uneasy
day, the post arrived, bringing a letter from Mr. Willshire, which
astonished me. I have been robbed right and left by the villain
Majíbí, who states that he paid 320 ducats for me in Sús, or I
should have been taken and sold; that Sheïkh ’Alí called me his
prize, and he would have 500 for me. This fellow is the prince of
scoundrels. The people from Taghakánth, for whom the Sheïkh had
written, arrived in the course of the day, and I hope to-morrow to
know what they mean to do.
Saturday, June 25.—Therm. 82°. Very hot and close; a melting day
before us. Had a long conference with the Damánís; but nothing
was said on the subject of my going. They made repeated attacks on
the creed of the Christians, and spoke of the impossibility of our
going to heaven without the aid of the prophet. I was strongly urged
to turn Mohammedan: they would give me camels, nákahs, slaves,
&c. I was at length obliged to silence them. After this came the
newspapers, out of which I made some extracts, which Abú read
to them in Arabic, and with which they were highly pleased. They
hoped the Sultán would persist in attacking the French: they said
that these districts could furnish, mount, and arm fifty thousand
men; but though they are fond of exaggeration, I think that twenty
thousand might be raised in this quarter. A man has come this day
to say, that he knows of two Christian slaves in the desert; they
are Spaniards. He wishes to know if I would buy them, or if the
consul at Suweïrah or Tangier would. After this, he asked me for
some medicines. I gave him a settler, by asking how he could come to
me a Christian, and ask for medicines, when he had taken these poor
Christians, and meant to sell them? Upon this, some words ensued;
to which the arrival of the Sheïkh put a stop. I told him to go to
Suweïrah, and asked how could he expect mercy, who shewed so little
to others? The heat very oppressive to-day. The Damánís were right:
the stolen horse did not go beyond the place they pointed out. They
have this day returned, having taken the thief, and his brother,
who had stolen three cows: they had ridden the horse to death. The
two brothers have made a pretty disclosure. They were sent by the
son of Sídí Hasan to murder Billah, a confidential servant of the
Sheïkh, who had left the service of Sídí Hasan, because the son
of the latter had violated the wife of Billah. If they could not
kill Billah, they were to seize and carry away his present wife,
who is a pretty woman; and, failing in that, they were to steal the
Sheïkh’s favourite horse, as a punishment for protecting Billah,
who, with his wife, escaped both the murder and abduction, and
the Sheïkh’s horse fell the sacrifice. For this pretty job the
fellows were to have about three shillings each. I hope the Sheikh
will shoot them. At length the Damánís have been to my rooms,
and told me, that if no káfilah is to go for some time, they will
proceed with me. I like them much; they are fine specimens of wild
men, but not savages. A large party of them came in the evening,
and staid till one A.M., and only left me to go and eat.
Saturday, June 26.—Therm. 82°. Symptoms of heat by the haze over
the mountains; spoke to the Sheïkh, and all appears to be settled,
but the main point is the money. If this is to be exorbitant, I
shall give up the thing at once. This question is to be arranged,
when Hájí Majíbí comes home. I fear I shall have a quarrel with
that fellow before I get off. The Sheïkh recommends the káfilah:
I am aware it would be the safer course, but I could not so well make
notes and observations, and should be bored to death for advice and
medicines during the whole road. If it goes soon, however, I shall
join it; if not, I shall proceed with my five or six people. Read
the prayers; most of the people here come to listen, although they
could not understand a word. The tribe of Ergebát[111] has sent a
deputation to the Sheïkh, and have this day been heard, and have
explained the cause of their attack upon the Taghakánths. The
Sheïkh decided in favour of the Ergebáts, and there is to be a
reconciliation and friendship. I must try to profit by this event, and
get past the Ergebáts before hostilities are renewed, which will be
soon the case. The heat has been oppressive to-day; I am rather glad
of it, as it helps to season me for the desert. Hope my party will
not come this evening. This is one of the great feasts amongst the
Muselmáns; but it is not kept here. The 12th of Safer is Mohammed’s
birth-day. Went to rest early, fearing my party would come.
Monday, June 27.—Therm. 86°. The heat has become very
oppressive. An express has arrived from Taghakánth, with a report
that the place has been attacked by the Ergebáts, who mustered nine
hundred men; while the Taghakánths, who were taken by surprise,
could bring together only three hundred to meet the enemy: these,
however, were sufficient to defeat their assailants, after killing
ninety of them, with a very trifling loss on their own part. This
is bad news for me, as we shall assuredly be attacked when passing
the district of the Ergebáts. The Damánís have set off in haste
for their place. Hájí Majíbí has returned; he is brought down
considerably, and came in a very humble manner to pay his respects:
he is a consummate scoundrel. Had a visit from Mas’úd, who
wished to give me a Tumbuktú quilt; but I can take no presents,
and he left me in dudgeon at my refusal. I dislike this man more
and more. Things are at last in a train; but I had a threatener this
morning, having nearly fallen two or three times, in consequence of
the great heat and excitement, and the immoderate use of tobacco. I
shall try to leave off the pipe, and begin reducing the quantity
of fluid. Very weak tea and water have been my only drink for more
than three months; and I must now leave off the tea. Attended the
unpacking of the ivory: some of the teeth are immense. Abú tells me,
that I shall see some as large rotting on dunghills; that the people
about Kong live entirely upon elephants, and are constantly employed
in hunting them. The small tusks are used for music; but from the
want of means of transport, the large ones are thrown away. Hámed
has just been here to take leave: he is a most grateful creature,
and promises that wherever I meet any people of his tribe, they will
respect Ján and Yaghá. He then said he had one more favour to ask:
I had cured him, and had given him too many things; but as he knew
I could do any thing, “I love,” said he, “the daughter of the
brother of my father; she is the prettiest woman in our tribe; I am
dying for her; but she does not love me, although I am the Sheïkh’s
son, and shall be the Sheïkh myself; give me such a charm, as shall
force her to love me.” It was in vain that I told him, I had no
love-charm. He said that I had given one to the son of the Sheïkh
of Dar’ah, and that his wife had come back to him. I had then to
make up a story that I must see the lady, and, as she is unmarried,
fold the charm, while she looked on. This he is convinced will prove
effectual; and when I get to Taghakánth I am to make him happy. I
don’t know what he has promised to do for me. My two guides remain
here to make the necessary arrangements about our start. I have been
asked, if I will fight, should we be attacked, and have had to give
a specimen of my ability to use a sword and pistols. My powder and
ball, and every thing else was approved of, and I am promised that
all will be well; but that I must make up my mind to some suffering;
that they will carry extra water for me, but one Samúm[112] may
drink it all up. The die is cast, and I must run the hazard.
Tuesday, June 28.—Mekkí died yesterday. This is the first death
since I have been here; and even this man might have been saved, had
he followed my advice. A large arrival of poor female slaves: I was
astonished at their spirits, especially when I saw the parting of two
sisters; they certainly have not the same feelings as the whites. I am
sorry to admit a point, which I have often strongly contested. During
the evening I was taken very ill, and compelled to lie down.
Wednesday, June 29.—Therm. 82°. Took calomel, Hunt’s pills,
&c., last night. Fainted away this morning, and had a great swimming
in the head, but wanted courage to bleed myself. I mean to try
what medicines and abstemiousness will do. Was very ill all day:
took my carpet to the garden, where I passed a few quiet hours;
went early to bed. The heat very oppressive.
Thursday, June 30.—Therm. 82°. Hazy and lowering. This morning
another arrival from Taghakánth. A small party from Súdán has
likewise been attacked. This last party confirms the news of the
attack on Taghakánth, and brings intelligence that many of the
Taghakánths have been killed. My room has been stormed by these
fresh arrivals. I am sick to death of them, and have been poisoned
by their stench. It is impossible to help myself, and the Sheïkh
dare not say a word to them. The courier has arrived, and brought
most satisfactory letters from Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, Mr. Willshire,
&c. Had a party in the evening. All were anxious to see the King’s
letter. Being much delighted, I staid up till two A.M. writing.
Friday, July 1.—Therm. 84°. The Damání crowd is off, and
now comes the settling question. I saw at once that extortion was
intended; but I cannot get Abú to act or speak with any force. They
want two months to prepare. Asked at first 2,300 dollars; after much
wrangling they came down to 1,500: this, added to the extravagant
sum demanded by the Sheïkh, is more than I can venture to give,
without the sanction of Mr. Willshire. I have written to him to know
how I am to act. That same villain, Majíbí, who has already robbed
me of 320 ducats, is at the bottom of all this. I hold a threat over
them, that I have another way open. I now learn, that a report has
got abroad of my being one of the royal family of England; that I
have plenty of money, and that the people of Sús intend making me
pay a larger sum for permission to return. We have counted too much
on the Sheïkh. This has quite upset me.
Saturday, July 2.—Therm. 84°. Lots of wounded. The trouble I have
in persuading these people that all cannot bear the same quantity
of medicine, is quite provoking. I have made up some bread-pills
to complete the number, where one would require three, and another
only two. The Damánís have dropt to one thousand dollars, but I
have refused to give an answer till I hear from Mr. Willshire. I
sent to inquire about the two Christian Spaniards, who are in the
desert. Wrote to Lord Palmerston, at Sheïkh Beïrúk’s request,
and to Lord Glenelg, Thom, and G. Dodd. Sat up till day-light, having
to dispatch my courier early. Laid down just as the sun was rising.
Sunday, July 3.—Therm. 82°. The Sheïkh came to me as soon as
I had laid myself down. He told me that the Damánís were under
an idea that I was a person of great consequence, and have large
sums at my command; and that they have only to ask and receive. He
said that as I should be obliged to pay the one thousand dollars
to get on either way, I had better make up my mind to it; that
he must admit his own agent had played the rascal, for he had not
expended the sum he claims; but as he has received the money from
the consul, there is, I fear, little chance of getting any of it back
again. Wrote to his Royal Highness, Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, &c. Sent
for my double-barrelled pistols, but forgot the spectacles. Sent to
Mr. Hay for some knives and other things from Gibraltar. Read the
prayers, and took to my carpet early, as I had been up two nights.
Monday, July 4.—Therm. 84°. Symptoms of great heat. Received
a large present of Kermesú Nasárá, (fig of the Christians) and
the prickly pear, (called Tagharnúp by the Berbers); they came very
acceptably: there were also a few half-ripe pears and some apricots;
I am afraid of fruit, but ate some of the first. The Damánís are
very anxious for my answer. The Sheïkh Mohammed Múlid tells him,
he will make an oath AHAD .................. that he will conduct me
in safety to Tumbuktú and Jennah, and that he will obtain for me
whatever I want from Hámed Libbú. I like this man; but have been
so often disappointed, that I have some fear of eventually changing
my opinion. He is more frank and open, and more like the man of
his word, than any I have seen since I set my foot in Africa. Had
great fun with the Taghakánth people, giving them some imitations
of character. We are all friends. I was struck with the quiet and
happy state of the slaves lately arrived here, who say they would
not accept their liberty on condition of having to cross again the
desert. This gives me a fearful idea of it; but I will try it.
Tuesday, July 5.—Therm. 84°. The Sheïkh Mohammed Múlid came to
make his AHAD oath, that he would protect me, and do all in his power
for me. Wrote to Mr. Willshire all particulars (of the information I
had received), and likewise told him that Mons. Anthoine D’Abbadie
intended to start from Tunis. Four slaves are here from Kóng, who
have told Abú that his cousin and school-fellow Kutúk the warrior,
is now the king of Kóng, and that his power extends to Ashantí. An
Arab from some distance came in to-day with some savage-looking
wretches: I was sitting or rather lying on the ground writing:
I sent them off in a hurry; but was afterwards told that the Arab
was a great Sheïkh, who, having heard of the arrival of a great
Christian Sheïkh, had come to pay me a visit. On his return I
told him that he ought to have taken off his slippers; he made a
fair apology: I then asked him to sit down; when he said that he
had heard of a Christian who could tell by a little magic thing,
where any place in the world lay; but that he could not believe the
story, and had therefore come to ask me about it. I humoured the man,
and got out my pocket compass, and told him to question me; when I
told him where each place was, and the number of days, which I had
already learnt, between any two or more places. He then stated,
that he had heard that I walked half the day and half the night,
and was never tired. Is that true? said he; to which when I replied
in the affirmative, he asked to inspect my feet, and after counting
my toes, he told his companions that I had only five on each foot:
he then examined the knee-pan and cried out _Wáhed aëdá_, ‘only
one;’ then taking me by the hand, he praised the prophet. From this,
as usual, he asked to see every thing, when I had to open boxes,
&c., and could hardly get him and his party away: he then asked
for a present; a little tobacco did here, but as he is coming again
to-morrow, (it will not be so easy to satisfy him). I learnt a good
deal from Tayyeb about Tumbuktú; he says that it contains sixteen
mosques, of which Sídí ’Alís is the largest; that it takes two
hours to go round the city, which now reaches to Kabrah; and that
has a village contiguous to it on the north; that in these countries
people walk but little: that its markets are now better than those of
Jennah; and that people come to it from all quarters. He states also
that Lamdo Lillahi[113] stands on the river, whereas the map makes
it appear twenty miles to the east. He lived till he was thirteen
years old at Tumbuktú, and has been here more than two years: he
knows more than most persons of his age; but is a great scamp. His
mother is one of Hámed Libbú’s family, and I therefore put up
with many of his rogueries. The heat has been very trying to-day.
Wednesday, July 6.—Therm. 84°. At eleven A.M. the town was alarmed
by the report that all the Sheïkh’s camels had been stolen. All
the people mounted, and set off armed: even the women went out of
the town on the road to Agadír, to see what was going on. At two
P.M. most of the people returned: the report was only partially
true. A few had been stolen, but the direction they had taken was
known. Mohammed Sierra mounted my horse, and with two others went to
get a reinforcement on the road. The reports about the great power
of the Sheïkh, are all moonshine: it is in reality nothing. During
my stay here, I have seen much of the African Arabs; they differ
greatly from the Asiatic: they are more wild in their appearance,
but far more cultivated: nearly all of them can read, and a great
many can write. I have been much pressed about giving my answer as
to going on. I must wait one week more; although I fear that the two
months will have elapsed from the time of deciding. Am very anxious
for the villain Majíbí and his party to leave me; I cannot bear the
sight of that fellow, ever since I was convinced of his roguery. Am in
some anxiety about my gold watch, as the Thillahs have stripped the
last couriers that passed through Sús. This Majíbí’s villainy
is capable of any thing. I gave him a rub this morning, and if I
had only protection here, I would give him the stick.
Thursday, July 7.—Therm. 76°. Had a large party to dinner to day,
as the Sheïkh had killed a cow. These beasts have come to feast on
the entrails, which they prefer to the meat; on being asked what we
did with them, I told them to their utter dismay, that we gave them to
the common dogs, as well-bred ones would not touch them. Had some of
the meat sent me, but it was not very palatable. I received likewise
a present of unripe pears; for these people will not permit the fruit
to ripen. At one P.M. about thirty of the tribe of Assereit Terjmert
arrived here: they are worse than any I have seen as yet: had a row
with them. The Sheïkh and all his people, who are evidently afraid
of being asked for something by all new-comers, slink away, and leave
me alone with every fresh batch of vagabonds: I told them my mind
as well as I could, and then scolded them in English. At night the
Aboudah Ich Saabi came, as it was expected, on a conference relative
to this quarrel; but as it turned out, they only came to gorge: a cow
is not killed every day. There is a report, that two hundred horse
will be here to-morrow, with what truth, time will show. Am happy
to hear that the beasts from Mogador are to go back on Monday next.
Friday, July 8.—Therm. 82°. Felt poorly all day. _Dies non_.
Saturday, July 9.—Therm. 82°. All are busy to-day in preparing
for the káfilah, which is to start for Suweïrah on Monday. Feel
far from well. Went to the medicine chest: but find that the least
dose disagrees with me. Renewed rumours of wars. The Damánís are
anxious for my answer, and I am equally anxious to give one. I know
not how things will go on. Am sick of the whole affair, and feel a
presentiment that it will be a failure.
Sunday, July 10°.—Therm. 82. Read prayers. The weather is heavy
and sultry. This has proved one of the most trying days for the
constitution, as the excessive heat has been succeeded by a very cold
wind in the evening, and this followed by a most sultry night. All
the people are fully occupied in preparing for the káfilah, which
is to start to-morrow morning with ivory, gum, &c.; I find that
the ivory sells here at seventy mitcal the canter, while at Mogador
it brings sixty dollars: the quantity of it is enormous. Felt very
poorly all day, and did not go out.
Monday, July 11.—Therm. 84°. All has been bustle to-day. The
káfilah had hardly started, when the two hundred horse arrived. They
came to hold a conference about going to war with a neighbouring
tribe, as one of the Sheïkh’s friends had been killed by a Marabout
of that people: after a long consultation, it was agreed, that as
the Marabout was _non compos_, there could be no intention of an
insult, and thus instead of a fight we had a feast. The Damánís
are preparing to be off, as my answer is expected to-morrow. I fear
I must give all the money: it is an anxious time for me. There
is a great talk about my long stay, and some of the Shilhah[114]
people are not over civil. The Sheïkh, poor man, is desirous to
pay me every attention; but he is fearful of enforcing a proper
authority over these people. Money is his curse, and he is avarice
personified. The heat is excessive.
Tuesday, July 12.—Therm. 84°. The heat is beyond every thing
to-day; the sun literally scorches: all are gasping. The slaves
are lying about. The Arabs say, that in the Sahrá on such a day,
twenty draughts of water would not quench the thirst. It is one of
the hot winds. I have been walking for more than two hours to the
astonishment of the natives. Evening came, but no post. The heat
still tremendous. I have been drinking tea for more than an hour,
and am still thirsty. Sent out again respecting the Spanish slaves:
hope to get the poor fellows. There has been a slight quarrel between
the Sheïkh and his son; but matters are, I suppose, now made up,
as the son came to pray in his father’s room. Some ostrich marrow
was sent to me to purchase, but I will not buy it without some
eggs. Patients are beginning to be troublesome again. I feel myself
somewhat better than yesterday.
Wednesday, July 13.—Therm. 86°. Symptoms of summer. Am looking
most anxiously for the post. The Damánís have all left, except
Mohammed and Hámed, who are waiting for Mr. Willshire’s answer. I
gave them a present which cost me thirty-nine ducats: they were highly
pleased, and so was the Sheïkh. At three P.M. the thermometer under
the colonnade was at 100°, and though there is a breeze, the sun
is scorching. All are done up. As there was no post, I was in very
bad spirits, and went early to rest: hope to get a little sleep.
Thursday, July 14.—Therm. 84°. To-day all are done up and out
of temper, with the exception of Abú. The heat is excessive; we
are all stripped to our shirts. Evening brought a cooling breeze,
and this brought back our spirits. I was obliged to lie down early,
oozing at every pore. Despite my little food, and the great heat,
have picked up most of my lost flesh. Am in great anxiety for the
post; it has not arrived to-day; if it does not come to-morrow,
I shall suspect something has gone wrong.
Friday, July 15.—Therm. 84°. _Dies non_. Out of health, spirits
and temper. No post.
Saturday, July 16.—Therm. 84°. Felt very poorly; kept my
bed. Getting out of all patience, as no post has arrived. Am in
great anxiety about my watch and letters from England. All this is
owing to the villain Majíbí.
Sunday, July 17.—Therm. 86°. Passed a bad night: was up early
and went out to bathe. Read the prayers. Was in hopes of the post
arriving at the usual time: disappointed. Sent Abú to the market,
who brought nothing I could eat; there was no fruit or vegetables. I
cannot manage the kuskusú. Received a present of six bunches of
grapes from a poor slave boy, to whom I had given some medicines; he
had walked out to meet the people coming to market, and had bought all
they had. Sent a present of a loaf of sugar to the beautiful Jewess
by Abú, together with three bunches of the grapes, to ask if she
could make me a pie; for which there is no name in Arabic. I cannot
go to the Leïlá myself, but have been promised something as near
to Abú’s directions as she can make it. I would have done it at
home, but Abú is a bad cook. As the grapes were very sour, I mashed
up two bunches with milk and sugar, and fancied it gooseberry-fool;
contrived, however, to make a meal of it; the only one I have had
for many days. I intended to take a ride, but the heat was greater
than I had ever felt. At two P.M. the thermometer in the sun was at
141°. It fell one degree at a quarter-past three P.M. and did not
sink below 138° till half-past five P.M. I was obliged to cover the
stirrups and _kummiyahs_,[115] and all metal articles, with pieces
of háïk: the stirrups were too hot to be handled. The horses and
cattle are all suffering; yet there is a strong wind from the N.W.,
but it is blowing fire. Mohammed tells me that on the E. of the
mountains, which shut out this wind, it is impossible to face the
hot wind. All here are astonished at my being able to stand it;
there is no fear of me; I am living too low to take any harm. My
fear is not that my stomach will go, but my head. Still no post. All
are in anxiety. A cold current of air is passing over us. At nine
P.M. the moon and stars are shooting with a peculiar glare, such as
I have often witnessed here after great heat. At ten P.M. the heat
returned, and nearly suffocated us. I dread the night—being half
destroyed by the vermin. Am very anxious for to-morrow.
Monday, July 18.—Therm. 86°. Rose early and went out. There was
more wind than yesterday. It feels cooler, but promises to be a
hot day. Conceiving I might be mistaken, while reading “Hints on
various Sciences,” p. 166, I took three thermometers, and suspended
one six feet from the ground, but exposed to the air and sun, at the
distance of six feet from the wall, into which a pole had been driven,
from which it hung perpendicularly. At twelve this had reached to
115° Fahrenheit. I then laid a second on a mat, exposed to the sun;
and this rose to 138°. The third I placed erect on the box of the
thermometer, which rested on the sand, and was propped up by a piece
of stick. This last rose to 126°. After they had been exposed about
a quarter of an hour, the three gave the following results:—
+-----------+----------+-----------+--------+--------+
| | Hanging. | Standing. | Lying. | S[116]|
+-----------+----------+-----------+--------+--------+
| At One | 119° | 126° | 143° | |
| Two | 119 | 124 | 139 | 109° |
| Three | 121 | 131 | 139 | 110 |
| Five | 120 | 121 | 126 | 107 |
+-----------+----------+-----------+--------+--------+
At half-past five, the wind freshened again. During the whole of this
period the wind was very strong from N.W. to N.N.W., and carried
a cambric handkerchief, in which was placed a stone of one pound,
at the rate of four knots an hour. The Arabs, who took the greatest
interest in any thing that I was doing, wanted to know what I was
about, and whether it had any reference to the country. As I always
had a story ready to excite their wonder or a laugh, I told them that
I expected a letter from England, and I was endeavouring to ascertain
how fast the ship was sailing; that the little glasses were to tell
me the heat of the sun, and the handkerchief the force of the wind;
that if when the sun was so hot, the wind had a certain power; I
knew how much greater would be the power of the wind, when the sun
was less hot; and by the velocity of the wind, I could tell the rate
of the ship’s sailing; the sun and the wind being enemies to each
other. Upon this they cried out “Tayyabek Allah:” after this
came the usual finale, by my taking some fire from the sun by the
burning glass; and what astonished them more than any thing else, was
that they could do it themselves as well as I could. At five P.M. I
received my grape-pie from the Jewess; but it was a sad failure,
as it was the third day in which I had gone without a dinner. It is
now evident the post has been stopped on purpose. I am in a nest of
villains, and know not how to extricate myself. The heat continued
of the most distressing kind: at midnight the thermometer was 100°.
Tuesday, July 19.—Therm. 95°. The heat is beyond endurance. No
sleep. All are lying down and panting. The long-wished-for post has
at last arrived: and this morning every thing was settled for our
starting without fail on September 15. All travelling now is quite
impossible, as the camels are dying on the route from the north,
in consequence of the heat, which is greater than usual. Every body
is suffering, and yet they say it is cool here, compared with the
temperature on the south side of the mountains. I have nothing on,
but what decency requires. The consumption of water is immense.
Wednesday, July 20.—Therm. 95°. The heat is terrific. No sleep, no
rest. The stream that passes the Sheïkh’s garden was this morning
at 75°. Mashaba (Majíbí) and his gang left us at three P.M. Went
out a little this afternoon, as I felt poorly, and procured some
eggs from the Arabs in the tents, but many of them were rotten. I
have now had no food for a week. Would give a dollar for a draught
of beer. Thirst distressing, and am pouring with perspiration. The
walls of the house are cracking with the heat and the ground is
distressing to the feet. Wrote to Mr. Willshire. The Damánís are
preparing to start to-morrow.
Thursday, July 21.—Therm. 95°. This morning I exposed about a
quart of water in a tea-kettle, on the roof of the house, to the
action of the sun. The water was brought from a small rill that
passes the Sheïkh’s garden, and was 75° when about fifty yards
from the spring. At twelve the water in the kettle had risen to
112°; at three P.M. it was taken away to be used as hot water; this
happened a few minutes before I got up to try its temperature. The
heat decreased much towards the evening. Have been very poorly all
day, and must have recourse to a blue pill at night.
Friday, July 22.—Therm. 82°, and has been lower. This sudden fall
of 15° has been felt severely. At no period has the glass reached
within 15° of what it was yesterday. It has made me quite ill,
and unable to go out to a fantasía in the afternoon. A káfilah is
now preparing for Suweïrah.
Saturday, July 23.—Therm. 83°. There was a heavy mist early this
morning. Thank God, the heat is lessened. The trees and fruit were
parched up by the heat of the three last days. The cattle are dying
in the roads, and the very slaves suffering. Feel very poorly;
and have now starved for a week, and been obliged to go often to
the medicine-chest. Had to send to the Jews for brandy to keep me
up. I am expecting some fruit to-morrow, and hope to get a fowl also,
and make some broth. Obliged to shut up books.
Sunday, July 24.—Therm. 85°. The weather fine and pleasant, and the
house quiet. Read the prayers. Received a present of two fine quinces,
called here ................ Their flavour is exceedingly fine; they
came from Tamazert; those that are grown here are not near ripe; the
others have a thin yellow rind, and their flavour is like that of ripe
raspberries. Being far from well, I did not leave the house. Abú
went to market, and bought some eggs, and dispatched Seulïmán
to Tamazert to buy more, together with half-a-dozen of fowls; the
latter being very dear here, about threepence each. I have agreed to
purchase a cow in partnership with Seulïmán, whose child is sick,
and wants more milk, &c., than he can get. I am to be supplied with
fresh butter every day. The cost of the animal, which has just had
a calf, is ten mitcals, about twenty-five shillings. This is a sore
subject for the Sheïkh,[117] who has had a quarrel with his women,
and they will not supply me. I really pity the man.
Monday, July 25.—Therm. 86°. Felt a little better; but as I was
still poorly, kept to the house. No incident.
Tuesday, July 26.—Therm. 78°. Day cold and cloudy. There was a
large arrival from Bamara. Felt very poorly to-day; these sudden
changes almost kill me. Got at last a fowl to-day, and ate a
little. Complained strongly to the Sheïkh.
Wednesday, July 27.—Therm. 80°. Health improving. There was an
addition to our party. Did not go out. House the best place. Had a
new dish to-day; stewed quinces and meat: it was not bad, but I had
no appetite.
Thursday, July 28.—Therm. 78°. Not so well to-day; kept to the
house. In the evening a party from Taghakánth brought intelligence
of the war still raging.
Friday, July 29.—Therm. 77°. Day fine; went out a little: am much
better, thank God.
Saturday, July 30.—Therm. 75°. The night has been cool, and very
pleasant. Went out a little this morning: towards the middle of the
day the heat returned with great power. A simúm is blowing in the
desert; we are all covered with dust, and the houses are perfectly
obscured. I tried the water again to-day: a quart was exposed from
one to three P.M. in a tea-pot, on the top of the house; it rose to
112°; at four P.M. it had reached 125°, when it came into service,
being half-boiled, to fill up the tea-kettle. We are to have three
or four oppressive days again. Spirits very low. Took a half pint
of the Jews’ brandy, having a very cholera-feel.
Sunday, July 31.—Therm. 80°. Passed a very bad night. Walked out
a little. Read the prayers, and mean to fast to-day. In the afternoon
we felt the simúm again, and the night was oppressive in the extreme.
Monday, Aug. 1.—Therm. 86°. The whole horizon buried in a cloud of
dust. The mountains to the S. and S.E. were not visible; the cattle
exhibit a disinclination to go to their pastures. We are to have a
sweltering day, by all appearance. We are looking out for the post,
which, we suppose, was stopt yesterday by the excessive heat, and
will not now reach us before to-morrow. Felt very poorly this evening.
Tuesday, Aug. 2.—Therm. 80°. Very poorly, and kept to the house.
Wednesday, Aug. 3.—Therm. 75°. Much cooler. There is a strong
breeze, but the dust still comes from the desert. For the three
last nights we have been annoyed with the jackalls, who have been
driven in from the Sahrá. Felt a little better to-day, and went
out for an hour. No appetite. This confinement is very sad. Received
large presents of unripe fruit. These people will leave nothing to
ripen; they are perfect hogs. A host of jackalls have made their
appearance. Gave Abú a lesson in medicine; made him number the
bottles in the chest, for fear of being too ill to go to it myself,
and he should poison me. We have some misgivings about the post,
which is three days behind its time. Persons have been dispatched
to look after the postman.
Thursday, Aug. 4.—Therm. 76°. A high wind, with dust, which
nearly blinded us all. Feel rather better to-day. Still no post,
and all in anxiety.
Friday, Aug. 5.—Therm. 76°. Weather much pleasanter. The night
cool, and not so many vermin. Received a fine present of grapes. This
evening the post came in, but brought no letters. The Sheïkh
is in a great rage about a letter, which that rascal, Majíbí,
has written; who now that he has been blown upon, is trying to make
mischief. Affairs are rather ticklish. I have a hard game to play to
keep all matters right. There is some unpleasant talk about the length
of my stay, and some not very pleasing hints to the Sheïkh about his
treatment of me. I have tried to put every thing in a correct light.
Saturday, Aug. 6.—Therm. 78°. Fine day. Feel somewhat
better. There has been another fight between the Jews about my food
and washing. I fear the Sheïkh leans to the scoundrel, whose wife
is more free-looking than Fehedia, whom he cannot seduce: the case
is to be heard to-morrow.
Sunday, Aug. 7.—Therm. 76°. Early this morning Sídí Mohammed El
Fakír arrived from Suweïrah, bringing me a letter, together with
tea, sugar, and coffee, from Mr. Willshire, and a present of fruit
from himself. By the letter I learnt that the Sheïkh had written
to Mr. Willshire for the money for the journey, which the Sheïkh
said he had paid the Damánís. I do not, nor does Mr. Willshire,
like this paying before hand. Had a large party at breakfast;
there was one Múléï ’Alí, and some hogs of Berbers. Read the
prayers, and prepared to catch the Sheïkh. He promises to give me
an acknowledgment, that I shall have nothing to pay on my arrival at
Tumbuktú, and that all shall be right. There are no signs of my tent
coming back. Sídí Mohammed, who is anxious that I should not go on,
brought his son, the only really learned man here, who is to write
privately to Mr. Willshire, should any thing happen to me. I am more
than ever pleased with the Fakír, and feel great satisfaction in
having a person who can communicate, if necessary, with Suweïrah,
unknown to the Sheïkh. I am not over easy that all is quite safe:
these are a thankless people, and are now very angry that I have
complained so much of the bad treatment I have experienced. I shall
make friends with this young man, and try what can be done through
him, in case of need. Feel much better to-day.
Monday, Aug. 8.—Therm. 78°. The house is full of visitors again,
and my pest, the Sheïkh Hammó, has returned. Abú was puzzled to-day
in some questions about Hájí Majíbí. Gave him a lesson to-night;
but he is a very dull scholar: he has no idea of position,[118]
nor can I make him understand the drawing of the ka’bah. Some
mischief is at work from that rascal, Majíbí, who has gone back to
Suweïrah. I will catch him yet. Feel better to-day, and am beginning
to be myself again.
Tuesday, Aug. 9.—Therm. 78°. Up early, and out to breakfast. The
post arrived with letters from Mr. Willshire, who says that he has
sent half the money for the journey; but that no pesetas were to be
procured, and therefore the remaining half would be sent by Hájí
’Abíb, whom Mr. W. insists upon coming here to see me off—an
event which now seems doubtful. I do not like this payment of all
the money before hand, as I may be left on the road, although I
have great faith in the Damánís. I had some high words with the
Sheïkh. His people owe Mr. Willshire five thousand dollars, and
would not take a credit for the one thousand. My good opinion of the
Sheïkh all oozing away. He is a beastly miser. Wrote to Mr. W. Felt
done up again by this business.
Wednesday, Aug. 10.—Therm. 66°. The night was so cold, that I
had to get up, and put on some clothes; and this morning the glass
shews a fall of 10°. Felt this change very sensibly, and the more
so as I have been out of temper since yesterday’s row with the
Sheïkh. As there were symptoms of heat, I tried the thermometer,
and found that it stood
At 10 A.M. in the shade 80° in the sun 110°.
— 12 M. 82° 124°.
— 2 P.M. 82° 120°.
— 6 76° 85°.
— 10 in doors 75° out of doors 70°.
I feel rather uneasy about the arrangements. Heard of a party going
to Tumbuktú in ten days. I have been told not to pay all the money
before hand. Am determined to speak again to the Sheïkh, even if I
am to give up the thing. All parties here are agreed as to my having
been ill treated. I fear this man is now bent on plunder. I mean to
dispatch a courier privately to Mr. Willshire to-morrow. I cannot
allow myself to be robbed with impunity. My treatment is now as bad
as ever, and if the money be once paid, I shall never get on.
Thursday, Aug. 11.—Therm. 70°. It begins to feel very cold. All
the people have taken to their Sulhams. A man was shot through
the ankle, and they came to me for some camphor, their sovereign
remedy. I told them that all mine was gone, and desired them to
go to Mes’úd. This strange fellow was born a Jew, and is now a
Muselmán. He is much looked up to. He too said that all his camphor
was gone; but was sure that I had some; for he had seen a great many
Jinns[119] about at this place, and one or two big ones at Agader,
where I go sometimes, and he was sure that they came for my camphor;
that they stole a great deal of his, and were very fond of it, and
would come a long way to get it. Finding, however, the applicant,
who was the father of the boy, to be greatly distressed for the want
of the camphor, I give him a little and some plasters. Mes’úd
told him how to tie it up, and Abú had to write a charm to keep
away the Jinns, and prevent them attacking the boy on the road,
which Mes’úd said they would be sure to do unless he took the
spell with him. Abú wrote two extra charms for the Táleb, on the
condition that he would shew me his book of magic to-morrow.
Friday, Aug. 12.—Therm. 70°. Had a great row with the Sheïkh, who
has over-shot the mark; I fear we shall quarrel yet, and the thing
fail entirely. Got the book on magic, but had to pay a mithkál for
looking at it.
Saturday, Aug. 13.—Therm. 70°. Weather cloudy and wind
cold. Towards noon, I had a great row with Sídí Salám, and
threatened to leave the house; I have frightened them a little,
but made myself ill again.
Sunday, Aug. 14.—Therm. 63°. It feels quite cold; I have taken to
clothe again. The people are preparing to go to the Múlíd at Muwah,
which takes place on Wednesday. Read the prayers. A sand wind from
the desert, which nearly blinded us: at five P.M. the glare was
so vivid as to distress the eyes; one could see the doors of the
houses, and the faces of all the people in the Sók. It had also the
effect of the mirage in giving a gigantic appearance to all persons;
we could distinguish even the tracks on the mountains, which were
some miles distant: it lasted above an hour. A Jew lad, who has
been in the habit of bringing me food, came with his schoolmaster,
the Rabbi, to take leave; he can repeat the whole of the Pentateuch,
although he is unable to read a letter: his schoolmaster told me
he had been teaching him to be a tradesman, not a scholar. The lad
got a dollar from me to pay his expenses on the road. The Sheïkh
is not yet returned.
Monday, Aug. 15.—Therm. 72°. Wind strong. A large káfilah is
starting for Suweïrah. The Sheïkh is to come back this evening. I
am sick at heart. Fasted to-day, partly out of spite to these people,
and partly by way of medicine.
Tuesday, Aug. 16.—Therm. 72°. This was rather an interesting
morning. The Arabs who are about to return to the Sahrá, came for
the Mazkát Allah. This is a kind of tithe given of the barley,
only to those people whose land will not produce any, and whose
occupation as guides to the káfilahs prevent them from tilling
the ground. It is not however the unjust tithe on the industry
and capital of the English farmer; but is a tenth of the actual
increase—in the scriptural meaning. The seed-corn is deducted,
together with the quantity requisite for the wages of the labourers,
and the cost of tillage, and gathering the produce; of which one
tenth of the actual increase is given. There was a great variety
of character (deportment), and a blessing was given to, and by each
person as he came for and went away with his share. In this manner
they obtain corn enough for nearly all their wants. A few presents
were brought for the Sheïkh, who I could see, gave grudgingly,
and in return asked very anxiously, if they wanted to buy any
thing. I had a great row with Sheïkh Hammód, and nearly came to
blows. This fellow is the greatest hog I have ever seen. I am very
anxious to hear again from Suweïrah; had Kádí ’Alí been here,
I would have left the house this morning. To-day was the ceremony of
swearing faith to the Sheïkh, and of protection to the káfilahs to
and from Wad Nún. Portions of the Koran were read; the Ahdah[120]
taken, and faith pledged, accompanied by the ceremony of stepping over
a stone. I have frightened the Sheïkh, and I hope to some purpose:
but matters are hard to arrange.
Wednesday, Aug. 17.—Therm. 74. These Arabs of the Sahrá are
certainly the men in Belzoni’s tomb, with their curls standing
out, and dresses close to their necks, and feathers in their heads;
none of them ever wear turbans. Some have a string of pearls (islik);
some a cord; but the generality are content with their thick woolly
curls, that make the head look like a mop, or the hair upon a poodle
dog. They are a slim race, but very hardy and courageous. Two large
wolves were killed this morning. We are looking out for the post. The
wind is high, but with the haze over the mountains, the fore-runner of
a return of the heat. At eleven A.M. it blew a perfect hurricane. The
Simúm[121] felt like the blast of a furnace. The thermometer rose
suddenly from eighty-five degrees to ninety-five degrees. The heat
was terribly oppressive; we all felt it, and the people were lying
about and panting, and all work was suspended. This lasted till one
P.M. and has so heated the air, that there is no moving. The Sheïkh
says there will be two or three such days: that we are lucky in not
having started; but that the weather will then become settled. This
is the approach of their second summer. I have this day had a proper
explanation. The Jew has been sent for, and ordered to purchase every
thing requisite on pain of banishment, and to bring in a weekly bill
of my expenses. The poor fellow at first thought I had been making
a complaint; but has gone away quite satisfied. There are symptoms,
I am sorry to see, of further detention. At half-past two P.M. the
hurricane returned; when the whole air was loaded with dust that
made the sun look red. The thermometer, was, in the sun, one hundred
and twenty-one degrees, and at three P.M. one hundred and twenty-six
degrees; in the shade, one hundred degrees and one hundred and one
degrees respectively; with a very trying wind, E.S.E. This has been a
thirty-drink day. The heat at night was excessive. I am to go to the
Jew’s to-morrow with the Sheïkh. A great change has taken place:
I have frightened these people in right earnest, and I am determined
to keep the vantage ground.
Thursday, Aug. 18.—Therm. 86°. Very hot outside the door. Went
to the Millah with the Sheïkh to breakfast, at the chief Jew’s,
Soleïmán. Every thing was very good, indeed, of a rather superior
kind: but what a place to live in! We went on foot, the Sheïkh
carrying a loaded pistol in one hand, and with the other on his
kummiyah.[122] After eating for two hours, the Muselmán party went
home to sleep. I remained with the sons and daughters of Israel,
who had come to the Millah, which is seldom honoured by a visit from
the Sheïkh, and still less frequently to eat there. The Jew’s
wife is one of the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen: she is
much respected, and possesses some property of her own. The Rabbi,
at my request, read the first five chapters of Genesis, and then
a portion of Exodus. I hoped to find some other books; but there
were only _Sepher Kodesh_.[123] Returned home, and found a great
change for the better in the establishment. The heat was excessive:
the thermometer at 101° in the colonnade. The moon looked pale and
sickly. At midnight the thermometer stood at 101°: every body was
fainting from the oppressiveness of the heat.
Friday, Aug. 19.—Therm. 89°. The heat suffocating: went out a
little to accustom myself to it. At two P.M. the thermometer was
at 110° in the shade. This is the second summer here: it lasts for
twenty or thirty days. All nature parched up. Kept to the house the
greater part of the day.
Saturday, Aug. 20.—Therm. 90°. There has been a difference of
twenty degrees between to-day and last Saturday, and of twenty-four
degrees between the 10th and 20th of this month. I am regularly
steaming. Am going to the Jew’s again: it is their Sabbath
feast. Their _olla podrida_ does not agree with me very well. It is
put into the oven on Friday just before sunset, and remains till it
is wanted, stewing from twelve to twenty hours in a river of oil. The
day was, however, a change from my imprisonment. The Rabbi read a
part of Genesis. Walked to the Millah, the heat excessive; returned
home, and had some pleasant talk with the Sheïkh: was right glad
to get away from the smell of the Jews, and from nose-blowing, &c.
Sunday, Aug. 21.—Therm. 88°. Day fine. The hot wind has
ceased. Read the prayers, and passed all day in the house with the
Greek Testament.
Monday, Aug. 22.—Therm. 76°. A great fall in the glass. Felt
very cold in the night; morning cloudy, with appearance of rain
in the west. Mohammed Serren brought one of his sahabi[124] for
me to prescribe something for him; the poor fellow was very ill,
and came with lots of commissions from others; but not being able
to explain himself very well, he mounted his horse, and went to
some tents in the neighbourhood, and brought me a louse, telling me
that the chief of the tribe, a great friend of his, had them all
over his body; and that as his skin bred them, he wished to know
how he was to get rid of them. He then detailed his own domestic
disease. He had the prettiest woman in the tribe for his wife; but
she did not like him. He therefore wanted me to give him a charm to
compel her to love him. Hearing a rattling of chains below, I went
out to inquire the cause of it, and asked if they were intended for
an elephant; but received for answer, that they were for the poor
devils who had stolen the Sheïkh’s horse: they are to be chained
up for God knows how long. The Arab returned for his medicines;
and when I was about to give him some directions about his diet,
he said it was of no use, for they had but two kinds of food, milk
and ’eïsh (barley-bread). There has been a great commotion amongst
the Jews. Poor Eïsh Ben Músa came crying to me, having heard that
the Sheïkh had made me promise to go and eat at Suleïmán’s,
who is a great rascal, and whom I dislike. The beast came, and
wanted to explain away his rascality. I find I cannot go there,
but fighting follows.
Tuesday, Aug. 23.—Therm. 84°. Walked out. An arrival from the
desert here from Suweïrah, but with no news either way. The Jews
are boring me to death. Do not feel very well. Towards night it
turned cold.
Wednesday, Aug. 24.—Therm. 72°. Had some talk with the Sheïkh. It
appears that all will be ready in about ten days. The place was
alarmed this morning by a heavy firing heard in the direction of
Eït Bamárah, and it was known how the people of As-sírer had gone
out to punish some Harámís[125] in that direction. We went out,
but could see nothing: the news was brought by a horse, whose rider
is supposed to have been shot. The animal, it was known, would, if he
were started, make as hard as he could to the Sheïkh’s stable. All
mounted, and were off to the scene of action; it proved, however, a
false alarm; no great mischief done; the place in an uproar. All the
parties who started after P.M. are now returning. Weather much cooler.
Thursday, Aug. 25.—Therm. 78°. Day beautiful. The post is arrived
at last. More money is asked by the Sheïkh, who now refuses to give
me a letter of credit. I fear I am in the hands of a rascal. I have
had a bit of a row with him, and have threatened to go back.
Friday, Aug. 26.—Therm. 68°. There has been a fall of ten
degrees. This morning the son of Mohammed ’Abád arrived, bringing
news that his father will be here in a day or two. This looks like
a beginning; although he admits that they will not start for fifteen
days of their month equal to eleven of ours. The place is crowded with
persons, who have come from the south, who had heard of an attack
intended to be made on the town. Am quite sick of my Jew visitors,
who, under the pretence of bringing me food, stop here half the
day. Hámed tells me to get every thing ready; for as soon as his
father arrives, we are to start.
Saturday, Aug. 27.—Therm. 70°. Hámed has let out much of the
Sheïkh’s rascality. There is a conference taking place about a
war with Bamárah: this is a very anxious time for me. Had my dinner
at the Millah, and afterwards went to the synagogue.
Sunday, Aug. 28.—Therm. 70°. The cold was so great last night,
that I was forced to have recourse to my háïk. Read the prayers,
and kept my room all the day.
Monday, Aug. 29.—Therm. 70°. A party, with about sixty camels,
started this morning to wait for me on the confines of the
desert. Kept up a long conversation, to the great amusement of the
people. There has been a large arrival of Shilhahs, who have again
put off our excursion. Cold to-night.
Tuesday, Aug. 30.—Therm. 70°. Some little rain has fallen during
the night. The place is swarming with people, partly owing to the
war, and partly to the Sók at Hámed Omonsa. A flock of the same
kind of green, brown, and red birds, with long beaks, and a shrill
note, that are so common on the coast of Arabia Felix, made their
appearance here. Wrote to Mr. Wilkinson.
Wednesday, Aug. 31.—Therm. 68°. Went off to the sea, accompanied
by the Sheïkh and eleven persons, including two slaves. We travelled
very slowly the first hour W. by N., and then three miles due N. In
about half an hour arrived at one of the Sheïkh’s houses, having
passed the ruins of a town with tombs: then turning S., rode till
twelve, when we came to about fifty tents, which were so low, that
they were covered by the bushes, nor did I see them till the dogs
were on us. The whole plain through which we had ridden, is capable
of cultivation. We found in it large flocks of sheep and goats, and
herds of camels. At half-past twelve, turned W.S.W., and then S.W.,
and rode till four P.M., when we came to a large and powerful spring
of salt and bitter water. Here the Sheïkh divided three loaves among
the party, and being thirsty, we took a little draught. The sea was
distant about one mile, but not visible, as it lay just under Cape
Nún. We had crossed the Búkukmán, which was dry, and the Sayyad,
which had but little water, and the As-saká, whose water was little
and bad: these three, after their junction, form a fine body of water
that falls into the sea. We now turned due S., and crossed a chain
of hills, and started several herds of gazelles, and came, at seven
P.M., to a large encampment on a fine plain. Poor Abú was knocked
up, and was near falling twice from his horse. After the tent was
pitched, all went to prayers. At nine, the Sheïkh of this, and an
adjoining encampment, came to make their feast on the heart, liver,
and entrails of the sheep, thrown upon hot charcoal, and then taken
off, and wrapped up in the caul and the mesenteric gland, roasted
on ramrods, and then handed round; the Sheïkh pushing each piece
at the end of the ramrod. At midnight the whole body was brought,
and made into kuskusú. I did not eat any thing, but had merely some
camel’s milk for drink, and then went to sleep.
Thursday, Sept. 1.—Therm. 64°. Cloudy, and with a mist equal
to rain. Up at five A.M. to prayers; then came kuskusú. I got a
part of one of my loaves: the people of all the tents came to pay
their respects, and brought with them lots of vermin. I was greatly
annoyed; they are sad savages. The appearance of the place last night
was very grand; there were fifty large fires burning, throwing their
light upon immense herds of cattle, and on the savage countenances
of men and women. Abú was very ill, but would eat. We did not start
till one P.M., as the Sheïkh had some business to transact. We
kept along the valley S.S.W. for an hour, and then turning N.W.,
crossed a chain of mountains, called Abú-l’Asel, from the quantity
of honey they produced, the bees hiving in the Euphorbium plant. At
six P.M. we arrived at the large encampment of El Báshá. There are
here above one hundred tents, one thousand camels, with sheep, and
goats out of number: there are also regular workmen, &c. here, and
the encampment has the look of a town. Supper came, as last night,
when I took my milk, but ate nothing: then came the story-teller,
who gave a genealogical history of the Arabs from the time of Abraham,
and of the patriarchs from Noah; then of the Koreïsh; and, lastly, of
the Tagakánths, who are certainly the men alluded to in Belzoni’s
tomb; they have passed by several names, that of Ansár is the one
they held the longest; the story-teller finished with some verses
complimentary to the Sheïkh and the Christian. He _improvised_
with great fluency.
Friday, Sept. 2.—Therm. 70°. We had thunder and rain during the
night. This place is called El Fyeshabd (............). At seven
A.M. we saddled our horses to send them to water; they had none to
drink, except from salt springs, for this the third day: the people,
however, were unwilling to let them go, and they have therefore
sent for water, although not a drop is to be obtained within some
miles. While the others were feasting on their kuskusú, I took my
milk. There then ensued a long argument about the antiquity of the
Ergebat and Tagakánth genealogies, &c. To prevent a quarrel, the bard
recited a poem. The people here are undoubtedly a happy race. With a
firm conviction in the truth of their religion, and feeling none of
the artificial wants of civilized life, they are satisfied with what
nature produces, and bear the inconveniences to which they are exposed
with resignation. I amused them with some matches, percussion-caps,
&c. They then went to prayers, and heard a sermon. The day was hazy
and cold towards the evening. We started at six P.M., and rode an
hour and half W. to another encampment; but there was no milk for me,
although the same kind of feast for others, which I cannot touch;
while the water was worse than would be Harrogate and sea-water
mixed together. Of course I could not swallow a mouthful.
Saturday, Sept. 3.—Very cold during the night. Thermometer in tent
was 70° at eight A.M. We did not get off till nine A.M. Impossible
to keep to the road, as we had to turn every five minutes to visit
different encampments. At half-past ten we saw the sea. Turned W. by
N. and rode for an hour up the dry bed of a river, of which the people
do not even know the name; it is, however, said to have water in it
near the sea. We came to three large wells, where there were many
flocks watering; they were very salt; but luckily I got some milk for
myself. Rode S.S.W. for three hours without the Sheïkh seeming to
know where he was going. We took up our position for the night at two
wretched tents. There was the usual supper; but I could eat nothing,
and was compelled to have recourse to tea, with salt water and dry
bread. Hope we are going to turn back, as I find it hard work to
travel without food. Passed an high sand-hill, and saw many snakes
and covies of birds. I have now learnt that we are to be out ten days.
Sunday, Sept. 4.—Therm. 72°. This threatens to be a very hot
day. Up at five A.M. but did not start till ten, as people were
constantly coming to the Sheïkh. Our course was S.S.W. and then W. At
half-past twelve we started a very large boar, who gave us a good
chase for an hour, when we killed him. His tusks were four inches
and a half long, and the upper one six inches in curl; he took four
balls to bring him down. We killed likewise a couple of snakes. At
half-past two we reached Frou el Wád Draha: this river, and not
Akessa, should have been in the map: it has but little water. The
tide runs high up; the bed is very salt: this is the place where the
Sheïkh wants to have a port, but it is too exposed, the surf great,
and the water shallow. We encamped at some tents close by the sea,
where I bathed. Begin to feel the want of food. The water was very
bad and I could get no milk. Some fishermen had gone out in the
morning; we waited for the return of their boat, when I got a fish;
the first morsel of food I have had. Could find, however, nothing to
drink but salt water. During the day a quarrel arose about killing
the boar. The tents were wretched.
Monday, Sept. 5.—Therm. 65°. Cold. Up at five to prayers. Got a
draught of milk, and a piece of bread, which is now becoming hard;
then went off to the sea, and bathed, and took soundings. Waited
two hours on the beach for the Sheïkh and his people, whom I met on
the road, when I was returning. Arrived at home, I dried my clothes,
which I had washed. Had a visit from all the ladies of the place; they
had buttons, beads and needles. I was much distressed at their not
having any milk or food that I could eat. It was amusing to witness
the pleasure these people feel in having a talk with a Christian. Went
down to the sea and saw the boat nearly swamped. My mule got away,
and it cost us two hours’ hard work to catch her. The coast to
the north all bluff and rocky, to the south sand-hills, and shallow
water. After being half-starved, got at length some milk at midnight.
[Illustration: _Drawn by J. G. Wilkinson Esqre. from a Sketch taken
by the late John Davidson._
_Drawn on Stone & Printed by P. Gauci, 9, North Crest. Bedford Sqre._
THE RIVER DRAHA.
_48 Miles W.S.W. of Wadnoon._]
Tuesday, Sept. 6.—Therm. 60°. Had a row with the Sheïkh. Some
of the people had stolen my horse’s corn. A cool wind from the
N.E. Abú upset the milk I had saved for breakfast. We started at
half-past nine, and rode fast for fourteen miles E.N.E., and then
due N. Crossed several sand-hills, and saw many gazelles, boars and
serpents. At five P.M. came to a small spring of fresh water. My
horse has been three days without any, and has had only salt water
since the day before he left Wad Nún. We came almost to blows to
get a mouthful for him; I was obliged to go without any myself;
for as the quantity is so small, it is the law to keep it for human
beings alone. We halted for an hour, and then turning a little west,
crossed a high range, and came again to El Bushra, where I got a
belly-full of milk and of bread which was now mouldy.
Wednesday, Sept. 7.—Therm. 60°. It was arranged for us to
return home this evening; but a dispute arose about a spring, and
some salt-beds, and the question of war with the Tagakánths and
Ergebats detained us the whole day. This conference was one of the
most interesting scenes I ever witnessed. Upon one of the poles of
the tent were suspended the guns, on the other the sword and cuneas;
the Sheïkh stood in the centre, myself at his right hand, and the
Kadí on his left; the charges and questions, the animated pleadings,
the powerful appeals, &c. together with the noise of those siding
with each party, all presented a striking picture. There was some
difficulty in settling matters; but all differences were eventually
brought to a close by a feast, when I got my milk and laid down.
Thursday, Sept. 8.—Therm. 62°. Off at half-past six. Rode very
fast till half-past one, when we halted at the Sheïkh’s garden. We
had crossed the Assaka, and came to the Syod, which is here only a
ditch. We then lighted a fire, and got some good tea made with fresh
water; there was plenty of figs to give a relish to the remainder
of the musty bread. I had now travelled hard for ten days, and had
eaten nothing but a small piece of fish, dry bread and camel’s
milk. I perfectly astonished these people, ............... but was
much benefitted and pleased by the trip. Got home at six P.M. when
I had coffee and a wash.
Here ends Mr. Davidson’s Journal, from which the notes have
been extracted; and the three following letters, addressed to
Mr. Willshire, will tell all that his friends have to communicate
up to the period of his lamented decease.
“Wad Nún, October 7th 1836.
“Being still in this horrible place, and with little chance of
getting away, I should not have written this to-day, had I not been
anxious to take advantage of any opportunity of giving you a piece of
information which will astonish you. The Tagakánths, notwithstanding
all that the Sheïkh ’Abíb and Hámed promised, have not arrived
here. Another express has been sent to them; but even after their
arrival there is to be a stop: should this prove to be the case,
I will give up the project, content to lose all the money I have
paid. In twelve days from this, I shall have completed six calendar
months here, and during a great part of the time I have been treated
worse than a dog. I have told Hámed, and as soon as I can get the
Sheïkh and ’Abíb together, I shall tell them likewise, that if I
do not start by to-morrow week, I shall insist upon their returning
the money they have had; at all events, that Hájí ’Abíb must
give me the five hundred dollars he brought, and the camels which
have been purchased with my funds; and I must make up my mind to be
robbed of the rest. This I have often threatened to do; but now I will
act up to my resolves, let what will happen. Zain came yesterday and
told me he would wait no longer; that he had engaged some sixty of
the Ben Alí tribe, who take twenty-seven men mounted on horses as
a flying guard, and who are determined to fight their way through,
if necessary; he says he can send me on with the greatest confidence;
that unless he was certain of accomplishing the object, he would not
risk his brother’s property; but that I must go at once. I shewed
him every thing packed up, ready to start at a moment’s notice, and
that I was only waiting for some bread that I expected. He asked me
how I was situated? I told him of every thing, and that one hundred
and ten dollars, including the present premium on the pesettas, had
been paid to the Sheïkh for the Tagakánths. He lifted up his hands
and said, it ought not to have been more than half that sum. Besides
I have brought him, said I, a present amounting to one hundred and
eighty dollars, and that he has asked for guns, which will cost him
from six to seven hundred dollars more. Moreover, I have promised,
if I am satisfied with his conduct, to send him pistols, powder,
&c.; that I had left the money in your hands. He got up, and said,
it was too bad; but as I had paid the money, it was no use to say
anything more; it was gone without the chance of recovery. He thinks,
and so do I, that the Sheïkh and his party will give themselves no
further trouble about the matter. Zain and his friends are the people,
who, as I told you some time since, offered to carry me to Tumbuktú
for five hundred dollars, and not to receive any money until they had
delivered me there in safety. The third and principal matter I have to
communicate is, that Sídí Alí Ben Ilft is gone to join the caravan
going to Tumbuktú; he came here last night to tell me so. No sooner,
however, was it known in the Sheïkh’s room that he was there, than
they sent Hájí ’Abíb to bring him to them. At first he refused
to go; but afterwards he went, and then came back and staid with
me till late. He says that he will go through all Súdan with me,
and even back to England, if I wish it. He begged me to visit him
this morning, and I have just left him. He wants me not to hurry the
káfilah; and from what I could collect from his conversation with
Hámed, he is disposed to give a large sum to delay the káfilah one
month longer, and a good sum to delay it twenty days. This he says,
is to give him time to arrange his affairs, but I know too well it is
to get further instructions from Fez. I have stated decidedly that
I will not wait twenty days. This Sídí Alí would be of great use
as a protector, but I want none. My mind is made up, I am sorry to
say, to leave my bones in Súdán, and it is as firmly made up to
make a severe example before I fall. I am determined, on the least
treachery I see here or on the road, to fire first, and my pistols
never miss. I feel that I am in bad hands here. Close and Moor-like
as Sídí Alí is, I wormed out of him that there was some fear lest
I should divert a most lucrative trade into another channel. Sídí
Alí will not believe that I have paid the sum I stated; so trifling
is the hire of camels to Tumbuktú, that they leave it to chance,
and even with the salt they are glad to obtain ten mithkáls, not
of gold; but merely the ten ............ a camel-load for the salt,
including cost and carriage; as it is the back carriage that pays. All
here are in great commotion, since they have learnt about Sídí
Alí, and they know not what to do. I am sorry for Hájí ’Abíb,
who is really concerned about this bad treatment. He complains sadly
of the food; and his servant, who has been four times to Tumbuktú,
says the dogs there live better than the Sheïkh here. He cannot eat
the food, and means to cook for himself. He is preparing a little
meat for me, but I cannot buy a pot to put it into. I stated in
my last that I was not going to put on any disguise. I have been
so accustomed to the dirt and filth in which I have been living for
some time past, that it has become quite natural to me. You, perhaps,
know more about Khovut than any other person, and when I tell you I
have been living in Khotu, sleeping on it for nearly three months,
you can form a pretty good idea of my disguise. I never expect to
become white again. My beard is very long, my hair is cut close to
the head, leaving one long tuft over the left ear, my bare legs and
arms are covered with the bites of vermin; my cheek bones are very
prominent, and teeth very sharp from having little or nothing to do.
“I have told you a great deal about Sheïkh Berúk, but the
finishing stroke was put to it this morning. I yesterday purchased
two sheep, to prepare a little meat to serve me either to go or
return. After cutting what meat I could off the bones, and putting
this aside, one of the slaves was sent from the house to bring them
away, there being enough for the dinner, and the small pieces were
of no use to me. I asked the girl why she was taking them away? She
replied, ‘the Sheïkh had sent her for them.’ This conduct was
strongly contrasted with that of Sídí Alí, who sent for Abú,
and told him that he had heard I was buying meat, but he would not
allow it; there were plenty of people to buy and cook meat for me,
if necessary; and he would not have it said, that a stranger was
buying his food while he was in their country.
“I am daily at the tents of the Tagakánths, and the ladies, not
one, but several, have openly asked me to pass the night with them; an
arrangement to which their husbands make not the least objection. The
Sheïkh alone, who is no great favourite, is jealous of the little
attention shewn to others. Hájí ’Abíb says, he does not know
how to manage these people. He is too close-fisted for them.
“Hámed has just been here (Saturday P.M.). I asked him to sit
down; he said he was ashamed, and would not sit in my room, till
his father came or sent a letter, bidding him to bring me on.
“I wrote a hasty P. S. about the medicines for the Sultán. My
friend, G. D———d, tells me that two such chests were never sent
from any house: besides the medicines, ............ of silver, glass
and copper, mortars of glass and slabs for pills and ointments, I
ordered the best work on medicine, the latest on diseases of the eye,
and the paper of anatomical figures made at Paris, which are taken to
pieces by leaves, and through which the medical schools in Egypt and
Persia are taught anatomy, as religious prejudices in those countries
do not permit persons to make use of dead subjects for dissection. I
likewise ordered several cases of bottles of Seidlitz and other
powders for Sídí Ben Alí. All these I know have been sent, and I
have paid for them: their non-arrival is owing probably to the want
of proper directions to the Káïd of Tangier to forward them on:
the matter should be really looked into for the national credit.
“Sunday.—Some observations have been made about my bones,
and I was this morning told they were taken to make soup for the
Sheïkh’s party in the garden, to which they all thought I should
go; but I am too poorly to stir out. At length there is news from the
tents, ordering all to be ready on Friday next to leave on Saturday
or Sunday. I shall not believe it, till I am really on my camel. I
have got no bread as yet.
“Wednesday Evening.—Your welcome letter, with the parcel, reached
this place yesterday evening: the messenger wanted to return this day;
but I was totally unable to hold a pen yesterday, and can but ill
manage writing to-day. Ever since Sunday I have been upon my carpet
alarmingly ill. This it appears is the sickly season of Wád Nún:
my first attack was ophthalmia. From this the disorder went to the
throat, and I had what they call a falling of the palate, and to
such an extent, that, after finding no relief from strong blisters
and gargling, and fearing suffocation, I was about to cut a hole in
my throat to admit of breathing; but Hájí ’Abíb, the Sheïkh,
the Jews, &c. all begged me to try the remedy of the country; and
for the last two days I have had a stick covered with tar poked
down my throat, and have inhaled the fumes of boiled tar twice or
thrice a-day. I am now wonderfully better, and am able to speak and
swallow hot liquids, though I cannot the saliva. The quantity of
this secretion has quite astonished me: there has been a continued
discharge for hours together, and amounting during the night to above
a quart. Hámed has been particularly attentive, and so have all;
and all have been frightened not a little. To-day I have had some
severe palpitations, for which, if they return, I shall bleed myself
till I faint, and repeat this as often as nature will allow. I do,
perhaps, wrong in writing, but I know your kindness and good feeling
would make you more anxious, should you hear of my illness through
any other channel.
“I am sorry I cannot answer your questions. Nobody knows when we are
to go: Hámed says, it is not the Sheïkh’s fault; that the times
are difficult. His father will be here to-morrow or the day after;
and we shall start the next day. If he comes to-night, we shall be
off to-morrow. I have sent Abú to see about some cakes from the
Jews. The letters to England must have miscarried, as there were
some private ones of mine that would certainly have been answered.
“I have been obliged to coin an answer to the Sheïkh, and telling
him that it will be time enough to think of commercial intercourse,
as soon as he should have performed his engagements with me, and
for the execution of which he had been paid before hand. He begins
to feel alarmed, and is half ashamed of himself. I cannot write
now what he has disclosed; but I shall be at him again before the
messenger departs.
“Friday night.—I am much better, although I do not consider
myself quite out of danger. I was obliged to make four incisions in
the throat by the knife, before I could obtain relief. I will go
to-morrow, if the people come, of which there appears but little
chance. I would readily step into the grave to get away from this
place; the thought of dying here, to be plundered by the Sheïkh and
his crew of vagabonds, annoys me more than my bodily sufferings. Abú
is quite useless: his fear makes him totally helpless; but this only
serves to rouse me. Hájí Abíb’s servant, Fahir, has certainly
saved me for the present. This strange fellow wants to leave his
master, and come to me. I do not think this would be fair on my
part; I shall, however, sound his master on the subject, who first
made the offer for me to take him: but I believe the wretches here
do not wish the boy to go back to Súdán, as he knows too many of
their dirty tricks. One circumstance alone keeps up my spirits; all
my predecessors started in good health and failed. Bruce, in whose
career and my own are many singular coincidences, started in nearly
the same shattered state of health, after a detention in Abyssinia
of six months, as I do now, and yet he succeeded; and so, perhaps,
may I; but my hopes are very faint.
“Saturday, four P.M.—I have this day spoken again to the Sheïkh;
but he fights shy of every question. I shall, therefore, tell Abíb
to-night, that I cannot stand this trifling any longer, and that on
Monday I expect to have my money returned. It is all nonsense that
I cannot get through Súdán before the rainy season commences, and
it would be certain death in my state of health to think of braving
them out. I have been shamefully used. The Sheïkh and Majíbí have
played this game to suit their own views, without caring a straw for
you or me: the former came snivelling about his expectation of a ship
arriving, and that traders would be glad to come here. I told him
that nobody believed in his power, and that the best proof of his
weakness was his inability to send me on. I perceive that you have
a great idea of his influence; but a week’s residence here would
convince you, that with the exception of his own immediate dependants,
not a soul would go out of the way to serve him; he is a mean, low,
avaricious, and crafty savage; an arrant coward, and one who grudges
even the barley that is daily served out for brute and beast. There
is often more disturbance about overfilling the measure, than would
take place in England if the Bank had failed. You seem to think there
is some danger in his taking offence: you need not fear on that head,
as he knows that he would then have to give the money back again.
“Sunday, P.M.—I have told the Sheïkh, that as the 15th October
is now past, my orders were to wait no longer; and that as the
Taghakánths had not made their appearance, I expected he would
either return the money, or send me on, or let me take my own steps
for proceeding to Tumbuktú. I had just laid down, after having
read the prayers, and while Abú was at the market, when I heard
some high words outside of the door, and in came the Sheïkh,
Abíb, and Hámed. The first was foaming with rage; the second
blushing up to his turban; while Hámed was sinking to the ground,
like one doomed to die. All were talking, and in my weak state it
was too much for me: being, however, an old soldier in argument,
and finding all the party in anger, I kept myself more than ordinary
cool. As soon as I could get them to speak one at a time, I found
that some reports from Suweïrah had reached this place, accusing
the Sheïkh of having played the rogue, and of having kept half
the money of the Taghakánths for himself; and that the scandal had
even extended to Fez. The Sheïkh asked, in a threatening manner,
if Hámed had told me so. Perceiving that the doom of the poor lad
would be fixed, if I told the truth, I was obliged to deny it. Had
I not done so, the Sheïkh, I am certain, would have killed the lad
on the spot. The Sheïkh then broke out in no measured terms against
all of us; and though he confessed I had good reason to complain,
he swore he had not taken a single morznum for himself; and that he
would not allow his character to be trifled with. He said tauntingly,
that all he had of mine was a gun, a caftan, and three suílhams; and
he would give them back, and I might make out my bill for the other
things, and he would pay for them. At this juncture Abú returned,
and I requested him to tell the Sheïkh, that I was not a merchant,
and knew nothing about bills; that if he found any difficulty in
fulfilling his engagements, my bill was a very simple one; he had
only to return the 1,000 dollars in pesetas, and the 350 paid to
Hámed, and to send me back to the place from whence he brought me;
that I did not care to go on, as it was plain he could not insure my
safety. This quite cooled him; and he turned round to poor Hámed,
and bade him get his horse; ride to the tents; bring his father and
people, and let them answer me. The poor fellow was shipped off by
Abíb, who now took up the subject, and stated that the Sheïkh’s
character had been injured by a report, said to have come from you,
that he has taken the Taghakánths’ money, and was now unwilling
to send me on. Upon this there was lots of swearing, &c., and the
Sheïkh became so warm, that he drank about a gallon of water, and
left us, saying that, if the Taghakánths did not come in ten or
fifteen days at farthest, he would take me back to Agadír. As soon
as he was gone, I told Abíb that, from the size of the parcels given
me to keep by Mohammed El Abd and Hámed Mulid, I did believe they
had received one-half of the amount, and that you were to send the
second half to me and not to the Sheïkh, and I would pay it over
to the Taghakánths, or to him, if they stated they had received
the whole sum. At this moment the Sheïkh returned, and muttered
something about the Taghakánths owing him money, and that if he
had paid himself, it was the same as paying it to them. This is
probably what led Hámed to believe and say that the Sheïkh had
paid only half, and had kept the remainder for himself. Hámed was
now left alone with us. He said the Sheïkh would murder him, if he
knew that it was he who had spread the report. He then left me to
get his horse; but the order was countermanded, and he is now with
me eating some bread, and watering it with his tears. Abíb says,
he does not know what to do; but hopes that I will wait the fifteen
days. Sídí Alí Ben Ilft told Abú in the market to-day, that if
we get away in less than a month, he would give me leave to cut off
his head. There is certainly some by-play here. This Sídí Alí has
been using every means to dissuade me, and there is no doubt that
his going is connected with my movements. I am sorry I can give you
no certain news about the Spanish slaves. The man left here nearly a
month ago, and seemed very careless about the matter, when he found
that he was not to have a present or money before starting. I am
making Abú collect whatever information he can pick up. News has
just been brought that the Taghakánths are moving their tents,
as the Ergebats have threatened to fall upon the káfilah as soon
as it starts, to wreak their vengeance for the last attack. I am
happy to tell you I am much better; but this blow of the Simúm,
with which, it appears, I have been struck, has been very serious. I
have a low ague; but feel too much pain in the chest when I cough
to venture upon quinine. Between ourselves I have reason to be glad
of this delay. I have had a little cake made by the Jews, but very
indifferent and dear; I hope I shall now get the bread.”
The next letter, which is the last that was written from Wád Nún,
relates some of the circumstances to which allusion is made by
Mr. Willshire, and which have been already printed in the Journal
of the Geographical Society. It is dated
“Saturday, Nov. 5, 1836.
“My pen almost refuses to write Wád Nún. Your kind letter reached
me this morning, and I can answer it in better spirits, because I am
happy to say my health is improving fast; but I cannot say much about
my confidence in the success of the enterprize. The start is to be on
Monday; although I do not go on that day. Every thing is now packed
up, and ready to be placed upon the camels, with which Abú starts at
day-break on Monday. I am to be left here, as if I had sent him on;
Mohammed El Abd remains behind. On Wednesday or Thursday, according to
the distance made by the camels the first day, we start on horseback,
accompanied by the Sheïkh Berúk, and about a half-dozen horsemen,
and we are to make Yeist, if possible, in one day. There I leave the
district of Wád Nún; and to that place is a three days’ journey
for loaded camels. I there leave my horse, and mount my camel, and we
push on to the tents. It has been positively stated to the Sheïkh,
that we are to stop only the night at the tents; but this is false:
I have become so used to the language of the Taghakánths, that I
understand more than they think; and I heard that we should be there
two or three days at least, if not more. The journey is to be made in
the shortest time possible. Berúk says thirty days; my conductor,
however, adds five or six; to this, he says, that we shall go as a
post, and form a party of only five, including Abú and myself.
“Mohammed El Abd came again at night, and there was again a sort of
grumbling about the expense. I asked why I was to pay 230 mithkáls
for a camel, when the usual hire for a káfilah was only from ten to
twelve? This was a silencer. Instead of being the lions of the desert,
they are only the jackals, and pay tribute to even a single Arab,
who happens to cross them on the route. The Woobd Allah (Zeïn’s
people) are the persons with whom I ought to have gone: they are
still waiting here, and Zeïn has started this morning for Akka,
to know the reason. I have at last got the account of the things I
have purchased here, and which I have signed, requesting you to pay
the amount to Abíb. It is fifty-one and a-half dollars, to which
will be added the price of a thick haïk, if one can be procured.
“Night.—Mohammed El Abd has been here again, and I have read to
him what I have written to you, and added, that all will now look
to him, not only to protect me, but to send me on. He shewed me his
letters to the two principal persons, and one of them is the great
Marabout, whose word alone is enough to protect me. His letters
state, that I am an Englishman; that the English have been always
the friends of the Mussulman; that they are all their support;
for they buy all the produce, and furnish all the things that are
consumed in this country.
“Berúk is so proud of the very idea of a ship coming to his
territory, that he has ordered Hájí Abíb to write to every body
who can assist us in the least. He brings me new milk with his
own hand; he is here ever and anon, and by keeping a jog upon his
responsibility, all may yet be well. I have quite frightened Mohammed
El Abd, by telling him of our power to stop the trade, and to make
him personally responsible, if I am detained even at Tumbuktú.
“Midnight.—My party remained here very late; I feel that after
the dressing I gave my conductor this morning, I have got once more
the upper hand of all the party, and will now keep it. To-day I
have parted with all my hair, the last remains but one of Christian
appearance, and taken up the Tisbeah. On Monday I shall have to
do without an interpreter, and on Wednesday, it is now said, we
are to put on the turban and start. You shall hear from the tents,
if possible; but this is not a very easy matter, as there are four
tribes at war on the route, and no man dares go singly: as much as
eleven mithkáls have been refused to carry a letter; but I suppose
that for his own sake, the Sheïkh will arrange this. Abú is quite
well, but not in the highest spirits. Let me assure you once more
how grateful I am for all the trouble and anxiety you have taken in
this matter. May Heaven bless and reward you and yours, and may we
meet again in good old England, and there over our honest glass talk
over the difficulties we have conquered. I do not wish to boast too
much; but I do feel that few men would have gone through even what
I have suffered already, and God knows I have much before me yet:
but a merciful Providence has hitherto preserved me through many
and great dangers, and on this I firmly rely.”
At last, after a delay of nearly seven months, Mr. D. was fairly _en
route_ for the goal of his travels—Tumbuktú. But he had scarcely
entered the desert, when he perished by the hand of the assassin. His
last letter is the following, dated
“Yeist, Tuesday, November 15th, 1836.
“This is the fourth day since my arrival here, and as yet I am
uncertain about getting on. Having a spare hour to myself, for all
the town have gone out in the expectation of an attack, I take the
opportunity of writing up my journal. We did not actually start
on Monday, as I stated, but all was in readiness, and we began by
moving our things on that day. I had long predicted that there would
be no rain, till I was allowed to depart; a prediction that turned
out true to the letter. On Tuesday, scarcely had the remainder of
the baggage been moved to the tents, and the horses saddled, when it
rained in such torrents as to make it impossible to set out. It was,
therefore, arranged for myself to start at midnight with the horse
party, and for Abú to follow at break of day with the camels and
baggage. The whole night was, however, passed in discussing what route
we should take, and day had fairly dawned before all preparations were
completed. We all started about seven A.M., but took different routes
out of the town. I was accompanied by the Sheïkh Berúk and Hájí
Abíb to the hill outside the town, where they took leave of me,
and I was then committed to the care of the Sheïkh Mohammed El Abd,
and Hámed Mulid. The superior conduct and character of these persons
as compared with that of Berúk, his son and escort, was greatly
in favour of the Taghakánths. But now let me give you a little
pleasing information. At the eleventh hour nothing could exceed the
attention and assurances of the Sheïkh and Hájí Abíb. The former
in giving me into the hands of the Taghakánths, said, ‘He placed
me in their hands as his own flesh and blood; if any thing happened
to me, it would happen to him; I had done much for them. He counted
upon making a name through me. I had waited long; and that now there
was to be no delay, but to go on at once to the journey’s end,
and that Mohammed El Abd was to return post haste with a letter,
informing them of my safe arrival.’ I heard from his conversation
here last night, that if he gets back to Wád Nún in three months,
Berúk is to give him one hundred mithkáls of gold. Hájí Abíb
wrote all the letters, and helped to pack up, and was much more
nervous than I should be if I were going to the scaffold. I found
that Abú had packed up my Suilham; but as it was said that I must
have one, although I had three _Haìks_, Hájí Abíb took off his
own, which he compelled me to accept. I told him I should write to
you to get him another, which I pray you will have the goodness to do.
“I shall not say one word about our journey to Tinzerat, which
were two days of misery and annoyance, owing to my companions, who
thank God, returned on Friday morning. I was then given in charge
to Sheïkh Hammó, and a party of twenty horse came from Yeist to
Tinzerat to bring us here. Sheïkh Berúk’s horse was sent back,
and I was mounted on one of Hammó’s, with a long gun placed
in my hand, and _haíked_ up to the mouth. We were off at eight
A.M. On the road we were joined by twelve more, making our party,
including the Taghakánths and self thirty-six, who were whooping,
firing and galloping, to frighten the _Haràmis_, the road being very
dangerous. A beautiful ride of eight hours brought us in sight of
this place. Hammó, with twenty horsemen, pushed into the town. On
entering it accompanied by Sheïkh Bel Aide, and another person, he
rode up towards myself and fired off his gun at my horse’s feet. The
whole place was out under arms. I rode up between two files of men
with their arms; and on entering the gate leading to his house, two
men mounted, with their guns crossed, made their appearance. Here
he halted, and called for powder, when a grand volley was fired,
which was followed by the screams of the ladies on the house-tops;
and then turning to me said, ‘Well, Christian, is this the proper
way to receive and treat you?’ I was then taken to his house, where
with his own hands he swept the court-yard and spread a carpet, and
told me I was welcome, and bade me ask for whatever I wanted. Milk,
and dates fresh from the trees, were then brought me, and all to my
perfect satisfaction. Early on Saturday he came to say, that a camel
was ready for me, if I wished to start. I found Zein here, who had
been unable to get his people on, although they swore that nothing
should stop them. They allege that the state of the roads is so bad,
as all the tribes are at war; and though the different caravans are
said to amount to near five hundred men and three thousand camels,
they cannot get on. Zeïn left yesterday for Akka to bring his
people here to accompany me, if possible, as it is now settled that
I am not to go to the tents at all, but make direct for the Sahrá,
and proceed to Tumbuktú without seeing even a tent or a single
person. We have just finished a consultation, when it was determined
to start on Thursday night. The journey will be accomplished in a very
short time, as the camels are to drink only six times. How we are to
manage I know not, as we can carry but little of any thing, and from
all appearances I fear there will be no káfilah this year. All are
in great alarm. Mohammed El Abd has learned that people are on the
look-out at the tents for my arrival, and it has been told them that
I am coming for certain with the káfilah; which is accordingly to be
delayed here for three or four days, so that we shall be a good week
on the road before it is known that we have got off. I am happy to
say that I have picked up amazingly, and have now no fears about my
health. I should have liked your glass of wine, but it did not reach
me. Hájí Abíb will bring back the horse and my gun, of which the
latter is to be sent to England; but unless you can do it easily,
not till you hear from me at Tumbuktú. Mohammed El Abd says he wants
to go to Suweïrah, and shall carry my letter to you himself and say,
there is the letter from Yel Yayha: the Taghakánths have kept their
word; God grant that he may.
“Evening. The people have returned. One man was killed, and another
shot through the arm on the road we passed on Friday.
“Wednesday, 16.—The answer from the Woobed Allah, which was
expected this morning, has not arrived. Mohammed El Abd says, that
if they do not come here as written for, he will start to-morrow
night or Friday morning without them. They were intended to form an
escort for the three first days. The attention and civilities of my
host continue unabated. I suspect, however, that the Taghakánths
live so poorly in their own quarters, that they are loath to leave
any place where there is good food and no paying for it. By our
present arrangements we shall save nearly six days, as the tents
are not in the direct route. It is, however, impossible to get any
certain answers or information to be depended upon. Changes take
place every hour not only in places, but in persons; and the man,
who at one time was as true as the sun, and to be trusted with any
thing, is at another a thief and _haràmi_.”
“P.M.—The son of the Marabout Sheïkh has arrived with a party of
horse, who are to escort us across the Wad Draha, and one day beyond.
“You must, my kind friend, excuse me for again adverting to one
of my former letters. But the great interest you have taken in the
success of my enterprise, and the immense trouble you have had,
demands every possible return on my part. I am still in the district
of Wád Nún, where I can assure Sheïkh Berúk is scouted and laughed
at by all. Every body thinks with me, that he is worth nothing:
that he is speculating with the property of others; his whole tribe,
excepting Hájí Abíb, are bad, low and disreputable. Do not let
him overdraw too much, or you will be a loser. His life is not
a good one, and as to his sons they are the greatest rips I ever
saw. Every step we have taken from his cursed place, we have found
the people improved, far more liberal and hospitable, and although
they are rather savage, they exhibit a nobleness of character, of
which there is not a particle in the family of Berúk. If I mistake
not, Seyd Boazer will open your eyes as to this crew.
“Night.—All is at length settled, and we start to-morrow morning
at the break of day. I believe the káfilah will be allowed to
proceed, although one mithcal a head is to be paid, and we have fifty
persons and one hundred camels. I am unable to tell you for certain
the route we are to take, as it will depend upon circumstances. Only
two persons beside Mohammed El Abd accompany us, so that after all
the talk at Wád Nún, I shall go in my original party of five,
including Abú and myself. I fear there is much suffering before
us, as no preparation has been made for any kind of food by the
Taghakánths. Berúk put up for us one canter of rice, and one of
barley; but El Abd can eat about six pounds a day. There are no
milk camels here; and as we do not go to the tents, I fear I shall
be deprived of this luxury. It is said, however, that one has been
sent for, and is to meet us, I hope in good time. I knew from the
first my route was the most difficult and dangerous; but it has far
exceeded my expectations.”
In a postscript Mr. D. adds—“All are in bustle and all in fear,
but Abú and myself;” and yet in a letter dated Wád Nún, October
7th 1836, he says—“My mind is made up to the certainty that I
shall leave my bones in Sudán.” Still with all these misgivings
his zeal in the cause of science never abated one jot. “Before
this reaches you,” he says, “I shall be wending my way over
Africa’s burning sands to a sort of fame, or the sad ‘bourne
from which no traveller returns;’ if to the former, truly happy
shall I be to renew your valued friendship; but if to the latter,
think sometimes of the poor lost wanderer.”
The laurel of fame to which Mr. D. aspired, was he feared reserved
for a more successful adventurer in the person of Monsr. Antoine
D’Abbadie, who said in the rooms of the Royal Society, that he
should give Mr. D. the go-by in Sudán, that he had been ten years
preparing himself for the trip, and had come to London to get an
English passport, as he intended to travel _à l’Anglaise_, for the
French were in bad odour amongst the natives of Africa, in consequence
of their forcible occupation of the country. “He was,” says
Mr. D. “a good naturalist, and astronomer, and had ample means at
his command, insomuch that he purposed, like Monsr. le Baron Taylor,
to travel _en Prince_ with his servants in hose and doublet, &c. But
think you that I who wear the sword-belt of his Britannic Majesty’s
Agent and Consul General, high and exalted in fame and dignity,
will allow myself to be beaten by a Frenchman! If I do I’ll—
No, I never swear. Abú shall make kuskasu of me first.” To the
preceding specimen of the liveliness of Mr. D.’s mind, may be
added the following. “Your Excellency’s writing and mine remind
me of the old proverb—‘_Tel Padron, tel Secretoire_.’ I will,
however, back yours to be the most difficult. This is as it should
be. The disciple must not be above his master. You will say I write
_hard_ scratches. I know it—I have only _steel_ pens.” So too
when speaking of some extract of camomile sent from Gibraltar, he
remarks that “the druggist ought to present it to the Society of
Antiquarians, and accompany it with a paper to prove that it was some
of the veritable remains of the medicine chest, that Noah carried
with him into the Ark. Its antiquity would give a fair colour for
the assertion.”
Mr. D., however, could at times act the philosopher as well as the
punster. At the conclusion of the account of his trip to Wád Draha,
he says,—“I am in better health than ever, and never was in
better condition. The Sheïkh backs me to win. I worked harder than
any man, and never once touched meat; out-walked all, out-rode some,
slept less than any, and never but once lost my temper. The people
in this district are between the Moors and the Arabs, and the hardest
to manage. I cannot tell half the pleasure and profit I have derived
from this excursion. I have visited a large track of country, quite
unknown to Europeans, and have seen much of Arab life; heard their
discussions on politics, and the stories of their bards, who are
wont to beguile away an hour or two of the night together, with a
history of the migrations of the various tribes. I can now compare
the Western Arab with his brother of the East. I have for some time
made up my mind that happiness is ideal; that to too many of us it
is ‘the gay to-morrow of the mind, which never comes.’ If any
people, however, can be justly called happy, the Arabs on the borders
of the Sahara are so. Confident in the power of their religion to
gain them Paradise; creating for themselves no artificial wants, and
perfectly satisfied with what nature provides for them, they calmly
resign themselves to the will of Providence, and are strangers to all
care. I am neither a missionary nor a cobler, and have nothing to do
with the care of souls or soles; but I really feel that any attempt
to alter the course of these people’s lives might be fairly met
with the observation of the Satirist, who knew human nature so well.
Pol me occidistis, amici,
Non servastis, ait; cui sic extorta voluptas
Et demptus per vim menti gratissimus error.”
In allusion to the few wants of the Arab Mr. D. says in a loose
memorandum, “His camels not only carry his wives, children,
and tent, but feed them; his cows enable him to sell two or three
jars of butter, and his fowls a basket of eggs weekly; his sheep
will give him twenty-five lambs annually beyond what he consumes;
the wool from them gives him from four to six _haicks_ and a carpet;
his barley feeds his cattle while vegetation ceases, and some of it
is sown to re-produce and make his kuskasu.”
_Various detached Notes at the end of Mr. Davidson’s Journal._[126]
The Mazzabibs’ dwelling between Tangier and Algiers at Wady
Mezzal, are called Moaterzelites, _i.e._ dissenters. They refuse
to pay reverence to the companions of the prophet. Their language
is Berber. All the people in the desert are familiar with the art
of making gunpowder; they collect the earth and mortar of ruined
towns. From this they make a ley, which is boiled until it acquires
consistency: with one pound of it are mixed four pounds of sulphur,
and four pounds of charcoal made from the oleander-wood. These
ingredients are kept together for three hours, and the powder is fit
for use. In D’jebel Eesay they find a considerable quantity of lead.
The word sibkah is used for salt plots (pits), of which there
are many.
In the Wady Souf, between Tibat and Ghadames, many meherries, _i.e._
swift dromedaries, are bred.
In Ghadames there are many ulemmas and talebs, _i.e._ writers.
In Matemater, Coptic is said to be the language in use.
In Terjgiert, there is a people called Medjehrah, of Jewish
extraction, who, to escape death, embraced Islamism. They have
the peculiar Jewish features, and the Arabs say, their houses have
the Jewish smell. They live in quarters set apart for themselves;
but they do not intermarry: they are scribes and merchants, but are
never raised to the office of káid or imaum: they do not observe
Friday as the Sabbath. The great drink here is made from the date.
In both Rife and Suse, the Jews go armed: they are, however, the
property of the Moors, who arm, and send them out as a sort of
substitute, and by whom they are supported, and allowed a greater
liberty than at Tangiers. In the mountains in the neighbourhood of
Tangiers, the Jews act as guards to conduct the Moors. They have all a
master, whose shoe they carry, which serves as a protection. They pay
tribute, not in money, but in work, the Moors finding the former. The
principal trade is in grain and oil: the masters are Berbers, all of
whom ride mules. Every douar has its sheïkh and káid, who are Moors,
and possessing each a jurisdiction, but not the power of punishing
in all cases. Their religious worship is the same as the other,
but little cared about. In the whole valley there may be about five
hundred. They have their sacred books, synagogue, and rabbi; and
they make a pilgrimage to the tombs, distant two and three days’
journey. All the douars have large vineyards, and manufactories of
haicks, carpets, &c. which are sent to Tangier. They do not speak
Arabic, but Berber or Shelluh.
The Arabs evidently borrowed their letters and their power in
pronunciation, and numerical value, from the Hebrews. But the
arrangement of the two differs entirely. From the circumstance
of the Shelluh or Berber having a greater affinity to the Hebrew
than the Arabic, I am led to believe the Shelluh more ancient than
the Arabic. The Berbers are the aborigines of Barbary: they extend
over an immense space. They have a settlement at Wadan, another at
Sausaceding (Susee-dan), and Yamina: they are to be found likewise in
Houssa. I presume that Berbera on the eastern coast must contain the
same people. During my visit there, I had an opportunity at getting
at their language, of which there are several dialects, between the
northern and southern range of the Atlas. That of Marocco and the
north is very different from that of the Sahara and Súdán, which
is very pure. There is, however, a greater difficulty in writing and
reading the latter, where the diacritical points are often transposed
or omitted.
The washing of the dead is performed thus: a large sheet is thrown
over the body, a man then wraps his right arm and hand in a napkin,
water is then poured on the sheet, through which it passes to the
body; the right side is first washed, then the left, next the back,
and then the front; sticks are laid under and over the body to
prevent the earth from touching it.
Ablutions are performed with sand in the desert, and sometimes even
in the house to save the trouble of fetching water. This sand bath
has given rise to the saying, that “sand is useless where water
is plentiful.”
The Fash-hook which produces the Ammoniacum does not extend in
any quantity beyond Agadeer, nor is there much below Suweïrrah,
the Derjmuse, or Euphorbium occupying its place.
The urine taken from camels which are giving suck, and drunk warm,
is used as a purgative, and to increase the appetite.
Of the serpents the Busk-ah (black serpent) is most dreaded; although
the poison of the Ef-ah (the yellow spotted one) is the most active
in operation. The former is, however, very irritable and quick in
its movements. I saw one June 8th.
The Camelion (Tatta) is very common about Wad Nún, and is called
the serpent’s enemy.
One of those strange animals between a bull and a female ass was
seen at Wád Nún: it is called jemmel. There is likewise a breed
between the bull and mare.
The falling sickness, and the being possessed by a spirit, are
diseases not known at Wád Nún.
The Tigghi, a small fish, like the sand-eel is found in most of the
rivers of Súdán. The effect produced by this on the system is very
curious. Like the torpedo or gymnotus lumbricus it paralizes the
whole body, and takes away the senses for nearly half-an-hour. It
is about eight inches long, and is much dreaded by the people. The
common mode of taking fish is to put into the water a quantity of
the Yeghan Touno, a small tree about five feet high. This intoxicates
the fish, and renders them blind, when they are easily caught.
There are great quantities of Crocodiles of a large size, and
hosts of Alligators. The gall of the former is always taken out
and burnt, as it is supposed to poison the water. The Kaaux has a
smooth skin but is in other respects like the Crocodile. The Kooroom
lives entirely on land, and is similar to the Guana. Hippopotami
abound in the rivers of Kong, and are called Máleh or D’jero
Máleh. Their flesh, which is eaten, is considered a delicacy: they
come out of the water about four P.M., and are easily taken. Darquey,
the animal between the bull and mare, is likewise eaten: it is large
as a horse and is very fleet. There is an animal about the size of a
large dray-horse, red with white stripes and two horns turning back,
called the Daramah, or Sukotelly: they go in large herds, and are
very good eating. There are also elephants, called m’hoor-do,
out of number. Of the Sinsi the meat is not eaten; it is hunted
chiefly for its eggs. The Tange is somewhat of the same species,
but much larger: others called Song are like small red heifers;
but they never leave the banks of rivers. The hyenas, called Minna,
are in great numbers. The Japp is like a small goat. There is a very
beautiful species of Antelope, jet black, called Tuba. The Giraffe
is seen frequently, but it does not come near the towns; they are,
however, much sought after by the rich (Congo Yomee). Buffaloes,
called Siggi, are found here together with musk-rats, &c. Of birds
there are bustards, wild turkies, eagles and vultures. The kites
will take the meat out of the people’s hands.
_The direction of the Letter to Hámed Libbú._
Please the high God, it will reach the hand of the great King, who
now possesses high authority and high fame, exalted in person and
rank:—the Sultán Hámed Libbú, the lord of the city Tumbuktú,
renowned in Africa. May God continue his assistance, and comfort
him. _Amen_.
* * * * *
[The following letter was addressed to Lieut. Holland, commanding
H.M.S. _Scorpion_, which vessel was sent to carry dispatches and
presents to Mr. Davidson: but owing to the very rough weather,
and the state of the bar at the entrance of the river, they were
unable to land on the coast near Wad Nún. It is inserted here,
as it helps to shew the great interest felt in the geography of the
country which Mr. Davidson was so anxious to explore.]
“Royal Geographical Society of London,
“SIR: 11th November 1837.
“I am directed by Sir John Barrow, as President of the Geographical
Society, to call your attention to our want of information relating
to the lower part of Sús, in the empire of Marocco; especially
with regard to the rivers Wad Nún, Wad Soleïman, or Asaka, Wad
Mesah, &c.; as your visit to Wad Nún, in order to communicate with
Mr. Davidson, may enable you to obtain some knowledge of them, I take
the liberty of sending you the following questions and suggestions,
which may be found useful in collecting geographical information:
“I have also the pleasure to enclose to you our latest map of
Marocco, an account of Lieut. Arlett’s recent survey of that coast,
and an extract from Mr. Davidson’s letter from Wad Nún—if you
read over these papers, it will enable you the better to judge of
what we want:
“1. In sailing down the coast of Marocco, should you be near
enough to distinguish the various small towns on the coast, notice
especially those between Cape Blanco (north) and Cape Cantín,
as the ruined town of Walidíyah is said there to exist in about
33° or 33° 15′ N. lat.—describe the situation of the towns,
and if there be any appearance of an opening to a bay three miles
in diameter said to exist—the opening, if any, must be very small.
“2. Four miles southward of Cape Gír, the Wád Sús falls into
the sea; from fifteen to twenty miles further south another stream
flows to the sea; describe its appearance, and endeavour to obtain
its name—Is it Wád Mésah?
“3. About twenty miles further south another stream falls into the
sea; also describe its appearance, and endeavour to obtain its name.
“4. In lat. 29° S., a river, said to be called Wad-e-stá, falls
into the Atlantic; describe its appearance, and ascertain its name.
“5. A few miles south of Cape Nún, a large river has its outlet;
what is its name?—Is it Wad Nún, Wad Soleïman, Wad Asaka or Wad
Akassa, or Wád el Aksá, or none of them?
“6. The same difficulty as to name, applies to the river about
twenty-five miles south of the last-mentioned?
“7. Does any river, called Wád Dar’ah, fall into the
sea? according to our maps it loses itself in the interior.
“8. The town of Wad Nún will probably be found at about forty
miles from the sea; should you ascend to it in your boats, pay great
attention to the windings of the river, its breadth, height of banks,
rate of current, and depth of water, especially on the bar.
“9. Determine, if possible, the lat. and long. of the place,
its height above the sea; describe its position, estimate its
population, &c.
“10. Does it stand on the banks of a river?—if so, what is its
name—where does it flow from—is it said to be dry in the summer
season—and is it at other times navigable for boats?
“11. Take the bearings, and estimate the distance of all
mountain-peaks in sight from the town; and give the general direction
of the range, or ranges, of Atlas seen from it.
“12. Ascertain how many days’ journey from Wad Nún (town) to
Akkah, to Sók-Assah, to Talent, and to ’Agadír; and, if possible,
obtain itineraries from natives.
“13. In sailing down the coast, note all the snowy peaks seen of
the Atlas range, which must be in sight from Cape Cantín southward,
and give their bearings. As from the latter Cape, till you reach the
parallel of Mogadór, there is no object in keeping close in shore,
it would be better to run down at such an offing as will enable you
to see the distant peaks, which otherwise the high land of the coast
may conceal.
“14. From a little experience among the Moors, I may venture
to suggest that firmness, united with conciliatory manners, will
soon make them your friends. A very trifling present of gunpowder,
snuff or tea, but especially of the former, will obtain you all
you want. It must be given with judgment, not too lavishly, nor
before many persons. With respect to astronomical observations,
if you persuade them that you are only regulating your watch, and
at the same time offer to correct theirs, they will not interrupt
you. Whether their watches keep time or not, is of no importance.
“15. By all means take with you a chronometer, an artificial
horizon, a sextant or circle, a prismatic compass for taking bearings,
and a mountain barometer, and direct that a register of the barometer,
left on board, be kept while you are up the country.
“16. It will be very advisable to take with you your
Assistant-Surgeon, if he can be spared, as medical advice,
and a little medicine go further with the Moors than any other
knowledge—besides he may also have leisure to pay some attention
to the natural history of the country; or at least to collect a few
plants and some geological specimens: if you can also take with you
a draughtsman it will be very desirable.
“17. In conclusion, all geographical information will be valuable;
note it immediately in a journal as fully as possible; and be so
good as to preserve your _original_ notes and observations, and
mark hear-say information with the name of the informant. I need
hardly add it is absolutely necessary that you should have a good
interpreter, who will probably be procured at Mogadór (or according
to your instructions from the Admiralty); and you must be provided
with a few trifling presents as beforementioned, gunpowder, snuff,
tea, gaudily printed cotton handkerchiefs, which are valued in the
order I have placed them.
“Begging you to excuse the freedom with which I have offered these
suggestions, and heartily wishing you success,
“I have the honour to be, &c.
“To Lieut. Holland, H.M.S. _Scorpion_.” “JOHN WASHINGTON.”
* * * * *
“Royal Geographical Society of London,
“SIR: 26th October 1836.
“I have the pleasure to acknowledge the receipt of your letter,
dated Wad Nún the 22d May; and am much more gratified to hear that
you have arrived thus far without any serious accident, and sincerely
hope it may be an earnest of future success. As an opportunity offers
of sending you a letter direct, and as it may possibly still find
you at Wad Nún, I write to say that any details relating to the
topography of your immediate neighbourhood will be very acceptable to
the Geographical Society, as we know nothing of it, and but little of
the country you have lately traversed, between Mogadór and Wad Nún.
“To save you trouble I have drawn up a few questions, requesting
you, when you do not reply to them from personal knowledge, to state
on what authority you give the answer, and whether you think it may
be relied on or not.
“1. Does a river called Wad Dar’ah pass through the town of Wad
Nún, and does it flow to the sea?
“2. Do you know Wad Tegréwelt, and where is its outlet?
“3. Is Wad-el Gas [?] the same as Wad Mésah, and where is its
embouchure?
“4. Is the town of Mésah on its banks, and how far from the coast?
“5. How far south of the river Sús does the river Mésah flow
into the sea?
“6. Does a river Assa exist? if so, where is its outlet?
“7. How far is Mésah from ’Agúlú?
“8. How far is the town of Tárúdánt from the mouth of the river
Sús? or from Santa Cruz?
“9. Our latest maps represent a branch of the river Sús, named
Rás-el-Wad, rising thirty-five miles E.S.E. of Tárúdánt, running
fifty miles to the S.W. circling round Mount Elálah, then flowing
north fifty miles to join the river Sús, can you ascertain if this
is correct?
“10. How far is Tedsí from Tárúdánt?
“11. Riley mentions Wád-e-Stá, between Istúkah and Santa Cruz,
does it exist, and where?
“12. Are the towns of Istúkah and Talent on the river Assah or
Mésah, and if so, how far from Mésah or from each other?
“13. Does a place called Gueder or Port Hillsborough exist, or is
it the river Reguela of Arlett’s chart?
“14. Is the river Nún also called the river Akása?
“15. Is the river Soleïman, or the river immediately to the
southward, of Cape Nún, of any extent and where is its source? Is
any town situated on it?
“16. Is there any large town between Istúkah and Nún?
“17. Can you give a tolerable estimate of the population of any
of the places above-mentioned?
“19. You state Adrar to be fifty miles south of the position
assigned in our maps. Is not Adrar the name of a range of mountains,
not of a town?
“Pray excuse these detailed questions, but seeing the confusion
in our maps, and knowing your zeal in the cause of geography, I
venture to trouble you with them; let me recommend you, if possible
to send duplicates of your information at every opportunity, for
while travelling, in a wild and uncivilized country especially,
it is difficult to ensure the safety of your papers.
“Mr. Renouard is well, and thanks Abú Bekr for his remembrances:
he desires his kind regards to you and to him.
“Accept, dear Sir, our best and warmest wishes for your success;
yet let me entreat you not to endanger unnecessarily your life
even with the hope of accomplishing your journey to Tumbúktú;
for however desirable it may be to reach that place, it is not worth
risking life to obtain it.
“I am, very faithfully yours,
“(Signed) JOHN WASHINGTON.
“John Davidson, Esq., Wad Nún.”
* * * * *
[The following letter was addressed to Mr. Vice-Consul Willshire
at Mogadór, but forwarded by that gentleman to Mr. Davidson, who
endorsed upon it the annexed answers to the questions contained
in it.]
“United Service Club, Charles Street, St. James’s,
“DEAR SIR: London, 1st March 1836.
“From your kindness and civility towards my friend, Lieut. Arlett,
who visited Mogadór, in command of H.M.S. _Etna_, and your
readiness to give him all the information in your power, I feel no
hesitation, although an entire stranger, in writing to you, to beg
more information relating to the southern part of the empire of
Marocco; as, in consequence of Arlett’s late survey having cut
off a large slice from our maps between Santa Cruz and Cape Nún,
several towns, such as Istúkah, Nún, &c. must be wrongly placed;
if you can supply any notes on the subject, I shall feel much obliged
to you, and shall gladly make use of them to correct our maps.
“I may mention that I feel the more interested in this country,
having accompanied Mr. Drummond Hay in his visit to the city of
Marocco, in 1830, and thus having had the opportunity of correcting
the map of the more northern parts of the empire.
“I have the pleasure to enclose for your acceptance, the best map
hitherto published of Marocco, that of Count Grăberg af Hemsö,
and to beg you will point out all the errors that you may be enabled
to detect. In order to save you some trouble, I have drawn up a few
questions, begging you, when you do not give the answer from personal
knowledge, to state on what authority it is given, and whether you
think it may be relied on.
“1. How far south of the river Sús does the river of Mésah flow
into the sea; and is it known by that name to the natives, or by what?
“2. How far from its mouth is the town of Mésah situated?
“3. Is it a place of any importance now, and what may be its
population?
“4. Does a river Assah exist? if so, where is its outlet? or
are Assah and Mésah the same river? is either known by the name
of Tesset?
“5. How far is the town of Mésah from ’Agulú?
“6. How far is the city of Tárúdánt from the mouth of the river
Sús, or from Santa Cruz?
“7. What is the name of the stream just south of Mogadór? is it
Wad al Ghored? and is it a stream of any size or extent? where is
its source?
“8. The map represents a branch of the river Sús, named Ras-el-Wad,
winding round Mount Elalah, and joining the Sús at Tárúdánt;
does such a river exist, and is this any thing like its course?
“9. How far is Tedsi from Tárúdánt?
“10. Riley mentions Wad-e-stá, between Istúkah and Santa Cruz;
is it rightly named, and where is its outlet?
“11. Are the towns of Istúkah and Talent on the Assah or Mésah;
and if so, how far from Mésah, or from each other?
“12. Does a place called Gueder, or Port Hillsborough, exist? or
is it the Wad Reguela of Arlett’s Chart?
“13. Does a town called Wad Nún exist? or is it the name of a
river, or of the country?
“14. How far is the town of Nún from the mouth of the river Nún,
or from Cape Nún? and is it situated on the river Nún?
“15. Has the river Nún any other name? either Akassa or
Wad-el-aksa?
“16. Is the river Soleïman, or the river immediately to the
southward of Cape Nún, of any extent, and where is its source? is
any town situated on it?
“17. Is there any town between Istúkah and Nún? how far is Ufaran
from Talent?
“18. Can you give a tolerable guess at the population of any of
the towns mentioned? and especially of Mogadór, Santa Cruz, &c.,
and the number of Jews they contain?
“Any other geographical information, towards correcting our
maps will be thankfully received. May I beg you to take as early
an opportunity as you conveniently can to answer these questions,
and with every apology for the trouble I am giving
“Believe me, my dear Sir, faithfully yours,
(Signed) “JOHN WASHINGTON.”
[The following replies were written by Mr. Davidson.]
“Question 1. About fifty-four miles—it is known by the name of
Wad Mesah, and also called Wholgrass [?]
“2. The town is Assah, distant about two miles—a few scattered
houses on each side to within half a mile of the sea.
“3. Of no importance; famed only for having near it a Tuesday
market, to which many people resort—its population may be one
hundred persons.
“4. Assah is the name of the district through which the river
Mesah flows: neither is known by the name of Tesset.
“5. From ’Agulú fifteen miles; large town with a population of
about six hundred.
“6. Equidistant; about thirty miles from each; and visible from
both.
“8. The Rás el Wad comes directly from the mountains, and passes
by Tárúdánt where it takes the name of Sús.
“9. Tedsi is about twenty miles E.N.E. of Tárúdánt.
“10. I can learn nothing of Wad-e-Stá.
“11. There is no town called Stuka, it is a district; none that I
can find, called Talent, there is _Tilin_; the Mesah flows through
Stuka, in which district are twenty settlements, or towns if you
like, some of them are large; they are known in general by the name
of the Sheïkhs who inhabit them, I stopped at Sheïkh Hamed’s;
Tilin was distant from this spot a day’s journey in the mountains
towards the source of the river.
“12. This place is called _Isgueder_ but not known by the name of
Port Hillsborough; the people called the small river here _Edaoguma_;
on this stream are twenty-five mills.
“13. Wad Nún is a large district having many clusters of
habitations; the town where the Sheïkh resides is of a good size;
has a Millah and a good market; it stands on the river (such as it
is), distant twenty-two miles from the sea.
“15. Wad el _Aisa_ comes from the mountains above _Sok Aisa_,
and as it passes through the district of Wad Nún, it takes the name
of _Assaka_.
“16. I have not yet been beyond two miles south of Wad Nún.
“17. There are at least twenty villages between Stuka and Wad
Nún. If by Talent, _Tissert_ is meant. Oferen is distant six miles.
“18. Population of Agadir forty-seven Mohammedans; Jews thirteen
heads of families, and with their children amount to sixty-two. At
Fonte, which is the port, about two hundred—no Jews.”
* * * * *
EXTRACTS FROM MR. DAVIDSON’S LETTERS.
The following extracts are given with the view of explaining some
allusions made in the Journal.
In a letter to Mr. G. D———d, Mr. Davidson says, “after
endeavouring to enter Africa _in forma pauperis_, I tried another
tack, and got up a staff of six officers in field-day regimentals,
and embarking in a brig of war the ‘Jasséen,’ landed at Tangier
under a salute of eleven guns. This stamped me at once as a great
man; and though I have been somewhat accustomed to such kind of
greatness, I find it not very pleasant here, for I have Messúd,
my Jewish interpreter, and Ben Hayed, my Moorish interpreter, and
I can hardly stir without both being on the alert, the one watching
my mouth, the other my eye.”
Speaking of the feelings of the natives towards a foreigner he says,
“the people here are worse than any I have yet seen; they hate me
because I am a Christian, although they are ready to praise me for my
kindness to Abú, who is half-anxious and half afraid to proceed. His
health is bad and spirits worse, and his powers quite unequal to
what we shall have to go through. We certainly run some risk: I am
very careful what he eats, and much fear that the threats thrown
out against his getting back will prove too true. As for myself,
I pass the time in riding with the Taurick, chatting with the Jews,
and taking snuff with the Moors.”
Speaking of the Mona he observes, “I had to pay for a sheep, fowls,
eggs, bread, and preserves, but being neither butcher, poulterer,
baker or confectioner, the things were of little use to me. They call
the present _Mona_, which may mean _Manna_; and as these vagabonds
call themselves the image of God upon earth, they think it enough
if they give only food.”
In allusion to the _Lob el Barool_ he says, “It is literally
‘the game of smoke,’ and played by soldiers on horseback, who
fire off their guns with only blank cartridges; but sometimes they
put in a ball, which is sure to strike, of course by mere accident,
a Christian.”
With regard to the ruins near the outset, Mr. D. seems to think they
are Druidical, and he compares them with the remains of Stonehenge
in Wiltshire.
Speaking of his medical life in Africa, he says, “all whom I cure
come to be paid for allowing me to improve myself in my profession,
and demand a piece of coin for every dose they have been taking;
while those I fail to cure abuse me for want of skill, and threaten
to shorten my life for not prolonging theirs.”
The allusion to the electrical horse will be best explained by the
following letter, written by Mr. D. to Professor Faraday, and by
whom it was read at the Royal Institution.
“The great interest you take in all matters relating to electricity,
and the great advantages which have resulted from your researches in
that science, induce me to call your attention to a circumstance,
perhaps not new to you, but which has recently fallen under my own
observation. I received from the Sultan of Marocco the present of
a horse of a peculiar breed, and as every person in this country is
his own groom, I observed a peculiar tingling sensation in the hand
on dressing the neck of the animal; this I attributed at first to
the dirt and vermin with which the poor animals here are infested,
and then thought no more of it. On leaving Marocco I proceeded
towards the Atlas; and whenever I had occasion to consult my compass
I found it extremely difficult, nay, impossible to keep it steady. I
supposed this was owing to my sword and pistol; but as I wore these,
when walking, without observing the same deflection, I dismounted,
and holding the compass, I still perceived the same effect as long
as I held it near the horse’s head; but when I left the animal,
and put the instrument on the ground, the needle settled to its
point. After a little reflection, the effect produced on my hand
by rubbing the horse’s neck on the near side occurred to me;
when repeating the experiment, I could perceive several distinct
intimations of the same tingling sensation. We proceeded to our
halt; and as soon as the party had sat down to their evening meal,
I began to examine into the matter more closely. It was now dusk;
on passing my hand down the neck, not only could I hear distinctly
the electrical detonation, but perceive a quantity of sparks; both
were such as would be produced by rubbing the large plate machine
at the Royal Institution. Thinking the effect might still have been
produced by animalculæ, and intending to visit the following day the
ruins of Trassermant, I ordered the horse to be well washed in the
morning. On pouring water over his neck, I found a peculiar spasmodic
action produced, which did not take place when it was poured upon
any other part of the body, not even on the off-side of the neck, on
which fell the mane. Ascending the lower part of the mountain chain
toward the snow, the effect was scarcely visible; but on returning to
the valley, it was considerably increased, and especially after the
animal had been well washed and dried. Approaching the sea, it became
more powerful, and at Mogadór I got several persons to witness the
phenomenon. I was here told by the kaid, who had accompanied me from
Marocco, to take great care of the animal; that there were very few
of them in the country, and that the Sultán seldom gave them away;
that it was not only a horse of high blood but of fire, and it would
never tire. It has done a great deal of hard work, and fully bears
out the character given of him. I have moreover observed, on touching
him with the spur, or when he is excited by the firing of a gun,
or the sight of other horses, that a violent action is produced on
this side of the neck. Upon entering the desert, the effect nearly
disappeared, and at the same time a great portion of his courage,
although he continued to do his work well. The difference may,
however, be owing to the great change from an abundant to a spare
diet, and to his sympathising with his master by shewing more bone
than flesh, as our meals are reduced to one a-day. Can the colour
have any thing to do with it? He is golden dun, with a black mane
and tail. I have seen but three of the same hue, two in the stables
of the Sultán, and the third in the possession of the Sheïkh of
Stuka; but I could not obtain permission to examine them. I am very
anxious to send him to England; but I fear it will be impossible, as
the whole of the persons in power in Marocco are so incensed against
me for having eluded their vigilance, and succeeded in getting out of
the empire upon the direct track of the gold district, that I am told
that no favour would now be granted, and that if I come back, I shall
rue what I have done in passing to this place. The road is now open to
me: my intention is not to follow the caravan route, but to proceed
with a small escort and a few camels by the road the couriers take,
and thus obtain a new line and bearing to establish the position of
Tumbuktú. I had made a collection for the Royal Institution of some
mineralogical and fossil specimens; amongst which were many of copper,
antimony and lead, and what they here call brass (_nhas asfer_). The
last was obtained, but with difficulty, for Professor Berzelius, at
the request of the consul-general at Tangiers. But having to lighten
my baggage, when passing through Lower Suse, the mule-load of stones
had to be sent away, with a promise that they should be forwarded
to Mogadór. They were addressed to yourself, with a request to
send the duplicates to the professor at Stockholm. I fear much they
will never reach you, as a Berber told me the people will be sure to
think they contain gold, and they will all be sent to the furnace.”
It appears, however, by a letter to Mr. Drummond Hay, that Sheïkh
Alí subsequently told Mr. Davidson, that finding they were only
stones, he, the Sheïkh, had thrown them away, but had kept the
baskets.
In allusion to the project of making Agadeer the port for sending
goods into the interior of Africa, he says, that the people there
asserted that the story circulated of the insecure state of property
in that country was unfounded; that such reports were spread by
the people of Mogadór, who feared that foreigners would come and
settle there, if it was thought that trade could be carried on with
Suse better by that route than the old one. It was this very dread
of the trade being directed into a new channel, that seems to have
thrown such impediments in the way of Mr. D.’s journey to Tumbuktú.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: This was the agent of the Emperor of Morocco, then
residing, as a merchant, at Gibraltar. He died lately, leaving a
fortune of 3,000,000 dollars.]
[Footnote 2: The opposition of Mr. Hay arose from his fears of the
perilous nature of Mr. Davidson’s enterprize, and his unwillingness,
therefore, to take upon himself any responsibility. This is distinctly
shewn by Mr. Hay’s letter, given in the Appendix.]
[Footnote 3: This is the name of a vessel whose arrival is noted on
Nov. 8. It had probably carried Mr. Hay from Gibraltar to Tangier, and
then returned for the purpose of conveying Mr. Hay’s son thither,
on his arrival from England.]
[Footnote 4: This is the Moorish name for a market-place.]
[Footnote 5: Fantasia is said of a fair intended for pleasure only,
and not for business.]
[Footnote 6: This is the name of the highest hill in the Mexican
Cordillera of the Andes.]
[Footnote 7: _Lálá_ is Lady in Arabic, and _r_ is sometimes
substituted for _l_.]
[Footnote 8: So in the MS.]
[Footnote 9: This is a Persian word for _a present_, and, though
common in Turkey, not used in Morocco.]
[Footnote 10: This is a kind of a tilt, where one party endeavours
to unhorse the other.]
[Footnote 11: Who the Doctor was is not told by Mr. D.]
[Footnote 12: This is the name of a province of Morocco. Two of
the Ríf guns were sent to London and are in the possession of
Mr. D.’s brother.]
[Footnote 13: Persons attached to a mosque, whose business is to
call the faithful to prayers. The word is pronounced Mu-edkdhin by
the Arabs, and Mu-ezzin by the Turks, Persians, and Indians.]
[Footnote 14: This was a place so called by its modern name:
its former one was Emsórah, as stated a little farther on. It is
properly Autád (pegs or stakes), but the Moors often confound _t_
and _th_, which latter they generally pronounce _ts_. The long _á_
has often the sound of _é_, and the final _d_ becomes _t_.]
[Footnote 15: _Adwár_, or _dawár_; it is used to signify a village;
it is properly a circular encampment.]
[Footnote 16: For Mesbrah or Musawwesah (sculptured).]
[Footnote 17: This is a dish of grain, rice, &c. prepared as food for
the common people, which they eat in immense quantities. It appears
to be not unlike the _piláú_, the favourite dish of the Turks.]
[Footnote 18: The following account cannot fail to strike those who
have seen or heard of the circles at Stonehenge.]
[Footnote 19: Mr. D. seems to allude here to a similar tradition in
some part of Ireland.]
[Footnote 20: Adwárátie, _i.e._ villages.]
[Footnote 21: Specimens of the ore were sent to the Royal
Institution.]
[Footnote 22: Perhaps Mr. D. had in his mind the passage in
Shakspeare, where Catherine says, “Asses were made to bear, and so
shall you;” to which Petruchio replies, “Women were made to bear,
and so shall you.”]
[Footnote 23: They are said to live chiefly on milk.]
[Footnote 24: These helmets and guns were sent to London, and are
now in the possession of the brother of Mr. D.]
[Footnote 25: So in the MS.]
[Footnote 26: An Ardeb, equal to about 3½ bushels, is a common
measure in Egypt; and as Mr. Davidson had travelled in that country,
he might easily suppose they spoke of Ardebs, when he heard them
mention Arrobas (Alrob’ah, a quart.)]
[Footnote 27: So, too, the French have lately discovered some Roman
ruins at Setif in Africa. A triumphal arch, erected in honour of
Caracalla, has been also found at Jemmílah, together with a Roman
causeway, that unites those two places.—See _Times_, Feb. 4, 1839.]
[Footnote 28: Wád el Áyéshah (the cheering river) is
crossed before the traveller reaches Fahs-el-ríhán. See map
(Geogr. Journ. i. 124.)]
[Footnote 29: During the Ramadán, the Muselmán takes nothing between
sun-rise and sun-set; but afterwards makes up for his abstinence by
eating voraciously.]
[Footnote 30: This will be understood by comparing the dates of the
three preceding days.]
[Footnote 31: The last Chapter in the Korán.]
[Footnote 32: Called Mináreh, or Mináret, by Persians, Turks,
and Eastern Arabs.]
[Footnote 33: Market-place.]
[Footnote 34: The Millah is the part of a Moorish town where the
Jews reside.]
[Footnote 35: It is probable that, as the news of Mr. D.’s journey
to Morocco had preceded him, the chief, who met him on this occasion,
had, like many others, come with the view of extorting a present in
return for the civility shown to an English traveller.]
[Footnote 36: This is probably a Moorish expression, to denote a
trifling present.]
[Footnote 37: So in the map; in the MS. ‘Sheivra or Sheraga.’]
[Footnote 38: In the map, ‘Mansoría.’]
[Footnote 39: For Ahmed a transposition of letters common among the
Moors, who say Embárek, for Mobárek; Imhammed for Mohammed, &c.]
[Footnote 40: All travellers in Morocco agree in stating that
Christians are held there in the greatest detestation; nor could
the Moors understand the motives that led Mr. D. to act the kindly
part he did towards Abú, who had been at once a Musulman, a negro,
and a slave.]
[Footnote 41: “Azammór of Sheïkh Shu’eïb,” says Abú-l-Fedá
in his Geography of Africa, page 4.]
[Footnote 42: Properly Mazíghan.]
[Footnote 43: Marking the direction of Mecca, to which the Muselmán
must turn when praying.]
[Footnote 44: This is the Spanish and Moorish word for a light-house,
lantern, or watch-tower.]
[Footnote 45: So in MS. Mr. D. seems to have again lost his
reckoning.]
[Footnote 46: So in MS.]
[Footnote 47: Here is a blank in the manuscript; most probably
the garden of Reduan. See plan of the city of Marocco in _London
Geographical Journal_, vol. i.]
[Footnote 48: So in MS.]
[Footnote 49: So in the MS.]
[Footnote 50: Pieces of the Korán are used by the Moorish doctors
as charms—a superstition that Mr. D. probably adopted to humour
his patients, but which the minister was surprised to find an English
physician resorting to. Knowing how acceptable verses from the Korán
are to Mussulmans, Mr. Davidson had a selection printed on slips of
coloured paper before he left London.]
[Footnote 51: Mr. D. is here speaking metaphorically. He conceived
that the Kaid of Mogador wished to get at his motive for visiting
Timbuctoo; he therefore gave him no clue, by saying nothing on the
subject. It is a slang metaphor.]
[Footnote 52: So in the original MS., with a blank.]
[Footnote 53: This was taken by the French during their attack
on Algiers.]
[Footnote 54: Took a pill and a draught.]
[Footnote 55: These letters make the nearest approach to the marks
in the MS.]
[Footnote 56: These are dresses worn by the Jewish priests; they
were sent to London.]
[Footnote 57: So in the MS.]
[Footnote 58: These were two medicine chests sent to the Emperor of
Morocco from London.]
[Footnote 59: Eunuch.]
[Footnote 60: So in MS. Mr. D. probably alluded to the black
Towáshi.]
[Footnote 61: _i.e._ Writer.]
[Footnote 62: This dress was never received; nor is any further
mention made of it in the letters.]
[Footnote 63: These are damascened in gold, and are now in England.]
[Footnote 64: So in MS.]
[Footnote 65: The number of feet is not given in the journal; but as
this place was also visited in January 1830, by Mr. Drummond Hay and
his party, who carried a good barometer with them, we know that it is
elevated about 1,800 feet above the city of Marocco, and 3,000 feet
above the sea. See _London Geographical Journal_, vol. i. p. 150.]
[Footnote 66: So in MS.]
[Footnote 67: Or Shulúh, the plural of Shilhah.]
[Footnote 68: Some specimens of these were sent to London.]
[Footnote 69: Capt. Washington, who went over this ground, says that
the _douars_ or _adwars_, here alluded to, are in reality villages
with stone houses. ED.]
[Footnote 70: These were presented at Mr. D.’s desire to the
Royal Institution.]
[Footnote 71: That is, from leaving Tasremút.]
[Footnote 72: N.N.W.?]
[Footnote 73: This is called in some maps _Imizmizi_.]
[Footnote 74: Pronounced Hámet by the Moors, who frequently invert
the first letters of names, and say Imhammet for Mohammed.]
[Footnote 75: Scoundrels.]
[Footnote 76: This was brought, in all likelihood, for purchase,
as Mr. D. was very fond of all sorts of arms, and had sent many
kinds of daggers to England.]
[Footnote 77: _Elæodendron Argan_, from the berries of which an
oil much used in Marocco, is extracted.]
[Footnote 78: Mubárek.]
[Footnote 79: So in MS.]
[Footnote 80: Places in Africa have frequently two names—one Buber,
and the other Arabic. (Zemima?)]
[Footnote 81: This is a kind of sham-fight, in which the parties
charge each other at full gallop, and after firing their pistols
at the horses’ feet wheel round. It is a favourite amusement with
the Moors and Arabs.]
[Footnote 82: This place is called also Santa Cruz.]
[Footnote 83: The place of prayer, oratory.]
[Footnote 84: Name of Mohammedan Saints.]
[Footnote 85: First chapter of the Korán, used as the Lord’s
Prayer is by Christians.]
[Footnote 86: This is a preparation of grain, or rather grits, and
forms, like oatmeal in Scotland, the food of the common people in
Súdán, where it is called Mogús.]
[Footnote 87: People of Sús.]
[Footnote 88: Caravan.]
[Footnote 89: This person was the agent to the Sheïkh of Wád Nún.]
[Footnote 90: His illness had commenced by his having had some of
his ribs broken; to cure which, he had been hung up by his hands:
but this had been carried too far.]
[Footnote 91: Friendship for thee!]
[Footnote 92: It is properly Núl, and was so named when the Arabs
possessed Portugal: Queen Núnah is a modern invention.]
[Footnote 93: A good idea of the buildings is furnished by the
annexed lithographic engraving.]
[Footnote 94: This was the name of the Sheïkh.]
[Footnote 95: This port was at the mouth of the river Darah, as
stated afterwards.]
[Footnote 96: The letters in original MS. are written in such faint
ink, that it is difficult to decypher them.]
[Footnote 97: So in MS.]
[Footnote 98: This office had been previously done by a Jewess,
as stated a little farther on.]
[Footnote 99: He kept his promise. The gun is now in the possession
of Mr. D.’s brother.]
[Footnote 100: This person is a constant traveller to Tumbuktú,
and a very considerable merchant.]
[Footnote 101: This is the celebrated French traveller to Tumbuktú.]
[Footnote 102: Wind-bibbers, _i.e._ dromedaries. G. C. R.]
[Footnote 103: This is the Moorish name for a dagger, as already
stated.]
[Footnote 104: Properly Murábit or Murábut, equivalent to Fakír
or Dervísh, terms little used in Barbary. G. C. R.]
[Footnote 105: Tamar means date in Arabic. G. C. R.]
[Footnote 106: My prophet is Mahomet.]
[Footnote 107: Properly Maúlid, _i.e._ Mohammed’s birth-day kept
on the 12th of Safer.]
[Footnote 108: This is the name of the horse of the desert, which
is said to have been fed on camels’ milk. So too Xenophon, in his
Anabasis, speaks of the ostriches in Mesopotamia, that are run down
by fleet horses. Sháribu-r-ríh, pronounced Shérb by the Moors.]
[Footnote 109: This is probably done partly to allay the itching,
and partly to prevent the matter from collecting in the nose; from
whence it would discharge itself into the mouth, and passing from
thence into the stomach produce a most horrible nausea.]
[Footnote 110: This is a cant phrase for going away; for it appears
that Mr. D. was offended with him.]
[Footnote 111: Rághebát.]
[Footnote 112: The _poisoned_ (samúm) wind of the desert.]
[Footnote 113: El Hamdo li-lláhi (praise be to God).]
[Footnote 114: Berbers.]
[Footnote 115: This is the Moorish name for a dagger.]
[Footnote 116: By S is probably meant _Shade_. The point at which
the thermometer stood at one P.M. is omitted; because Mr. D. did not
then think of noticing the difference between the sun and the shade.]
[Footnote 117: Because it was a proof of the Sheïkh’s want of
hospitality, in compelling Mr. D. to purchase his food.]
[Footnote 118: Mr. D. perhaps meant to say, that Abú had no idea
of the relative bearings of places.]
[Footnote 119: Genii spirits.]
[Footnote 120: This is the same engagement as that taken by Mohammed
Múlid.]
[Footnote 121: Amongst the papers of Mr. D. was found the following
description of the Simúm, written while it was passing:—“To
describe the awful scourge of the desert defies all the powers
of language. The pencil assisted by the pen might perhaps afford
a faint idea of it. Winged with the whirlwind, and chariotted in
thunder, it urged its fiery course, blasting all nature with its
death-fraught breath. It was accompanied by a line of vivid light,
that looked like a train of fire, whose murky smoke filled the whole
wide expanse, and made its horrors only the more vivid. The eye of
man, and voice of beast were both raised to heaven, and both then
fell upon the earth. Against this sand-tempest, all the fortitude
of man fails, and all his efforts are vain. To Providence alone must
he look. It passed us, burying one of my camels. As soon as we rose
from the earth, with uplifted hands to heaven for its preservation,
we awoke to fresh horrors. Its parching tongue had lapped the water
from our water-skins, and having escaped the fiery hour we had to
fear the still more awful death from thirst.”]
[Footnote 122: Dagger.]
[Footnote 123: The Holy Book, _i.e._ the Pentateuch.]
[Footnote 124: Jewish Arabic, for Asháb, _i.e._ Companions,
Plur. of Sáhib.]
[Footnote 125: Robbers.]
[Footnote 126: The spellings of several proper names in these Notes
are very doubtful.]
APPENDIX.
* * * * *
[From the JOURNAL _of the_ ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY _of_ LONDON,
vol. vii., p. 144—172.]
* * * * *
_Extracts from the Correspondence of the late Mr. Davidson, during
his residence in Morocco; with an Account of his further progress
in the Desert._[127]
The much-lamented close of Mr. Davidson’s life, an event which
every member of the Geographical Society will unite in deploring,
has made it the melancholy duty of that body to preserve some record
of his latest exertions in pursuit of geographical knowledge. For
that purpose his various friends and correspondents were requested to
place in the hands of the Secretary such of his letters as contained
any observations of moment; to this request they readily acceded, and
the acknowledgments of the Society are more particularly due to his
Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, to whose gracious encouragement
Mr. Davidson was mainly indebted for his favourable reception
in Morocco, and who, with his wonted liberality, has allowed the
transcription of the most interesting communications received from
that enterprising traveller. To the extracts from Mr. Davidson’s
own letters, are added such accounts as have been at different times
forwarded respecting his further progress and the fatal determination
of his journey, the particulars of which are still involved in some
doubt, though concerning the main point, the loss of his valuable
life, there is unhappily no place for hope.
It would have been highly gratifying had it been possible to introduce
these extracts to the reader, by a detailed memoir of Mr. Davidson’s
extensive travels in every quarter of the globe; but the materials
furnished by such various and remote journeys could not have been
collected and arranged in the short period which has elapsed since the
sad intelligence of his end has been authenticated. Those journeys
were also performed before their author was in correspondence with
this Society, and for that reason are not necessarily connected
with its Journal. His instructive lecture on the site of Jerusalem
and the movements of the investing armies, the manuscript of which,
had it received its author’s last corrections, would have formed
a suitable counterpart to his description of a mummy which he opened
and described after his return from Egypt, might have been inserted
in this collection, had it not been too closely confined to topography
and history to be properly placed among geographical disquisitions.
In the summer of 1835, Mr. Davidson, whose ardour was not checked
by the many hazards and difficulties he had already experienced,
formed the adventurous project of a journey into the heart of Africa,
by what may be termed the most direct route. He therefore embarked
in September, 1835, for Gibraltar, on his way to Morocco, from which
country he hoped to reach Tumbuktú by the route of Tâfilêlt, the
road by which Réné Caillé travelled from that city northwards. To
the almost insurmountable obstacles which would meet him at every
step, Mr. Davidson was no stranger. His personal courage, however,
his power of enduring fatigue and change of climate, readiness at
finding expedients to obviate difficulties, and, above all, his
peculiar urbanity, which could not fail to prepossess even strangers
in his favour, gave his friends, and still more perhaps himself,
a confidence which even those excellent qualifications could hardly
justify. To many other accomplishments particularly valuable in
such an undertaking he added a considerable knowledge of medicine,
to which, indeed, he was in the main indebted for the accomplishment
of that part of his journey which he did execute; and should his
papers have escaped the notice of the savages who assassinated him,
they may hereafter add another leaf to the laurels with which his
brow is already graced.
The only person by whom Mr. Davidson was accompanied was a negro
baptized in the West Indies by the appellation of Edward Donnelan,
but better known in this country by his Muselmán name of Abú Bekr,
of whom some account has been given in this Journal.[128] He is
occasionally mentioned in the following letters by the name of Abou,
and should he not have sunk under the privations and fatigues of
the desert, may possibly hereafter supply us with a more authentic
account of his lamented employer’s end than any which we have
hitherto received.
Mr. Davidson, as was before remarked, was well aware of the
difficulties which awaited him, and at Gibraltar, where he was
detained nearly three months by the impossibility of clearing
his way into the empire of Morocco, he met Mr. Hay, his Britannic
Majesty’s Consul-General in Barbary, who “seems to think”
(he says in a letter to Dr. Lee, dated 13th September, 1835)
“that we shall not be able to get on.” His resolution was not
so easily to be shaken; he proceeded to Tangier,[129] and after
waiting there a considerable time, had at length the satisfaction of
informing his brother, Mr. T. Davidson, on the 13th December, that
he had “that morning received a most kind and flattering letter
from the Sultán of Morocco, accompanied by a few lines from his
minister,” commanding him to repair to the court, where he should
experience nothing but what would be agreeable to him. This letter
was accompanied by another to “El’ Arbi Essaidi, the káïd of
Tangier, directing him to provide everything for his safe conduct,
and enclosing letters to all the governors by whom he had to pass,
that they should pay him respect, honour, and hospitality, inasmuch as
he was travelling to benefit his fellow-creatures; that the governor
[al-káïd] should provide him a guard of ten horsemen, commanded
by a káïd [captain], who would enforce respect and ensure the due
performance of the Sultan, their master’s orders, which were that
he should be treated with respect and consideration; and that his
Majesty enclosed for him, the governor [of Tanjah], money for the
soldiers, and extra pay for the káïd, who were to act under his
orders, and be guided by his discretion.” “Such,” he adds,
“is the manner, after a delay of three months, that I commence
my arduous undertaking. I almost fear it is of too flattering a
character, but must only use the more discretion.”
Antecedently to the receipt of these gracious orders from the
Sultán, Mr. Davidson’s residence at Tanjah had not been either
agreeable or encouraging, as appears from the following extract
from a letter to Dr. Lee, written (10th December) only three days
before the last:—“My good and grateful companion [Abú Bekr]
begs me to forward the few lines he has this morning written to
you, and I wish I could send you any particulars as to our journey,
or any new observations on the small portion of this country which
we have seen. With the exception of two or three excursions, [at]
the utmost under fifty miles, I have been confined to the walls
of this place, waiting the Sultán’s permission to proceed into
the interior. The jealousy of this people exceeds all belief; their
insults [are] innumerable, and I fear their determination is not to
allow us to proceed. I have, however, by means of a few presents,
bought the interest of the governor of this place and of Tetuan, and
have been allowed to visit the places in the neighbourhood, but never
without a soldier, from whose view I cannot proceed one step. I have
examined some of the neighbouring mountains, most rich in iron, and
specimens of jaspar and large masses of fossils. I have also passed
some hours at the various douars,[130] or Arab encampments, have taken
measurements of the ruins of the Outset,[131] or Pharaoh’s Peg,
as it is called; some observations on which I hope shortly to send
to England. I propose next week, should I not receive my permission
to proceed south, [to] go from hence to the Divarretts, amongst
whose hills are some Bedouins. One large tribe, who used to escort
the hadjis from this to Mecca, still remain in the neighbourhood;
and I think some of them would for a good consideration take me to
Mourzouk, from whence I could get upon the caravan-track for Soudan. I
have had some conversation with the Sheïk of Wadnoon[132] here,
on his return from Mecca; but he states he cannot take me through
Morocco, but will protect me, should I get to his dominions. The
second rains have commenced with more than usual violence, and part
of the country is impassable, which may account in some degree for
[my] not receiving my answer from Morocco. I shall lose no time as
soon as I receive this, nor shall I delay more than this month, and
if this fail, I shall commence the year by a new route. My health,
thank God, is very good; but I am sorry to say that Abou has had his
sight much affected; and I fear he is very unequal to the journey. I
am taking every care of him by nursing him; and he is too, I grieve
to say, an object of great suspicion.”
Secure under such a protection, Mr. Davidson lost no time in
proceeding to the capital, and had the satisfaction of giving his
brother an account of his progress in the following letter:—
“_The Garden of Mulai Moussa, Morocco, 18th Jan._ 1836.
“My dear Brother,—I fear from what has accidentally transpired,
that it is the Emperor’s intention to detain me here for some
time. I have little cause for regret, this not being the season
for me to cross the chain of Atlas, and any hurry on my part would
only lead to suspicion, which might prove highly injurious to my
projects. According to the Sultan’s directions, I started from
Tangier with my caid [káïd, or captain] and his ten soldiers,
accompanied, [for] the first two hours, by thirty of the consular
corps: the good wishes of all, I believe, I possess—Mr. John Hay,
the Consul’s son, and M. Crusentolphe, the Swedish Vice-Consul,
accompanying me on to Rabat,[133]—eight days’ journey. I found
much benefit, and derived great pleasure from the company of these
gentlemen, the former of whom is a perfect master of Arabic. I have
been also most fortunate in procuring an excellent dragoman,[134]
who holds the office of interpreter to the British Consulate at
Tetuan, and who has obtained three months’ leave of absence, and
is now my paid servant. He has twice attended the English medical
men who have been sent for to attend the Sultán, with whom he is
a great favourite. To Rabat, the country presents little worthy
of observation; a fine fertile plain, rich valleys, with numerous
streams, and a succession of mountain ranges reaching as far as the
eye will carry one. A little circumstance had nearly deprived me
of the great source of safety, and the main stay on which I have
to rely. Crossing an arm of the sea, at the Coubba of Mulai Ben
Absolam,[135] my mules got into a quicksand, and I was obliged
to dismount my soldiers, who had to wade the ford, their horses
accompanying the baggage, the ropes being passed round the mules’
necks and haunches to draw them out. Most of my clothes [were]
spoiled, and many of my little luxuries destroyed. Our weather,
fortunately, was fine, and this induced us to stop and dry our
clothes, which keeping us too late to reach our place appointed for
encampment, we sent on the Sultán’s letter to have a mona and
house prepared at Mehidia.[136] The man mistook the road; and on our
arrival, the Governor refused to give anything to either the soldiers,
muleteers, or the animals. He had been told all his directions
were in the letter, and his only verbal orders were to pay me every
respect and hospitality. He took me and my party out to his gardens,
got ready a part of his house, provided most amply for the three and
my servants, but left both men and beasts starving, they not having
had any food, this being Ramadan, for eighteen hours. Starting me in
the morning, he gave me an additional escort of thirty men, to take
me to Sallee,[137] opposite to Rabat. Arrived there, we were again
without our letter; but the Emperor’s son had sent orders about
me. I had to make some disturbance here; was detained two days, to
wait for an escort of two hundred horse, to be relieved by other two
hundred, owing to an insurrection which has just broken out amongst
the Zaire, who, it appears, expecting I was coming richly laden, had
determined to take me. They had plundered all the parties who had,
for the last three days, passed their district. My letter arriving,
the Governor altered his tone towards me. I had refused to pay him
a second visit, because I was not treated with sufficient respect,
and informed him I should appeal to the Sultán on my arrival at this
place [Morocco]. He now comes to say my guard is ready, and he intends
to accompany me the first two hours, when the Lieutenant-Governor
is to take me on to the Commander of the Forces, who is posted at
midway between this and the Douar at which I am to sleep. This sight
was most beautiful: the variety of dress and arms, the beauty of the
Barb horse, and the meeting of sixty of the Oudaia,[138] who, added
to my first escort, swelled our party to above three hundred. We
had a slight row on the road, [and] took one man, which had nearly
set the escort at war. The poor fellow claimed the protection of the
Oudaia by a sign which they must acknowledge, and these, with some
of their comrades amongst the party who accompanied me from Rabat,
separating from the main body, prepared their guns for action. I had
some difficulty, with the assistance of my caid, who appealed to
their conduct before the person they had to escort. One man [was]
severely wounded, and many [were the] losses of turbans, caps,
&c. At our halt, having been joined by a large caravan on the road,
we covered a considerable space.
“I encamped in the centre: my marquee, my caid’s tent, two tents
for my soldiers; Hassan, a sort of consular agent, going to Mazagan,
with a little black tent between mine and the caid’s; our muleteers
in the rear; our horses and mules in a circle, and surrounded by
about sixty soldiers: outside of this, the camels and the rest of
the party. We [were] disturbed in the night by a large wolf, who had
prowled in amongst us. Of these and the wild boar [there are] many
traces. [We were] off early, and at eleven experienced a hurricane,
which obliged us all to stop. Our animals [were] unable to face it,
and we obliged for safety to dismount. Here our guard left us. All
drenched to the skin, [we] proceeded to Dar-el-Beida,[139] and had
no sooner got our tents up, than I received a message from Mulai
Abdrahman,[140] the Emperor’s second son, to say he had prepared a
place for me in the court of the palace, and that it was too dangerous
to sleep outside the walls. I went, praying to be excused the fatigue
of striking the tents uselessly.
“On entering the town I was received by his guard, who galloping
close to me, fired their guns so near my face that I was nearly
blinded. [The Prince is] a poor, puny boy, but having a very
intelligent, wary Mentor. He had the orders of his father to bid
me welcome. From this to Azamor,[141] on the Omer Begh,[142] where
I met with the best of all receptions; the Governor accompanied
me to Morocco with sixty horse. We ascended the three steps to the
plain of Morocco. On the last night, at a place called Swynia, I was
robbed of your gold watch and part of Abou’s clothes. They have
since been returned. On crossing a kantarah[143] over the Tensift,
I was met by a party of soldiers commanded by a caid, to bid me
welcome in the Emperor’s name, his Majesty being out reviewing his
cavalry. They were to conduct me to the ruins I now inhabit. I was
taken round the walls by Haha, the place of the lepers, who have not
the privilege of entering the city. This added above six miles to my
already long journey. I found this place greatly in ruins: it must
have been splendid. My room, which is bed-room and parlour and all,
is thirty-eight feet long, eighteen wide, twenty-six high, richly
ornamented, but without the slightest article of furniture. This forms
one room of a square, the other parts [being] occupied by my servants,
the caid, his soldiers, &c. And I have this day an accession of fifty
persons, with the Emperor’s father-in-law, who has come to pay his
respects, this being the season of the feast after Ramadan.[144]
The old Moor, Seedy Mulai Ben Alee Abdrahan, has paid me a visit,
and has become a patient. This evening I had to see his ladies,
all fancying they were ill, [and eager] to see the Christian after
two days’ quiet (as they call it), that is, not travelling. I
was ordered to be in readiness as soon as it became dark, to go and
see the Minister. A person would come for me, and I was to put on
a cloak, and follow with a dragoman. At seven, an old Moor, with
two soldiers carrying lanthorns, came for me. I was surrounded,
as soon as I was out of my gate, by soldiers, and taken, as well
as I could judge, about two miles, through large masses of ruins,
crowded bazaar,[145] (the people giving way,) and numerous narrow
streets. Not a word; but at each gate my guard pronounced the word
El Hadge, and we passed. Arrived at a low door-way, a black slave
asked for the word—this was pronounced—and then my dragoman and
I were ushered into a narrow passage in total darkness. Through the
court-yard into which this opened we observed several persons pass
out; when a small door opening behind us, the Minister (whom we had
seen at the palace in the morning) was waiting to receive us. Tea
was brought, and in the centre of this room stood a single chair,
on which I was to sit. I was then bade welcome in the name of the
Sultán, [and was told] that I was to consider myself his guest;
that I had only to wish, and it should be granted; that his master
was only waiting for the fast to terminate, when he would see me. A
host of fulsome compliments!
“I was then shown the vegetable productions of the country used as
medicines; requested to report upon them; and questioned as to the
progress of medical science. I spoke of the countries I had visited,
and was assured that I should find more to be pleased with in my
reception here. I was then asked to feel the Minister’s pulse,
and report on his health; then to know if I would examine his black
ladies, two of whom were but so-so,—a pretty job! I played my
part well. Orders were given that no one be admitted. I was then
told that the Lieutenant-Governor of the Meshwar[146] would come in
the morning, and take me to all the Sultan’s palaces and gardens,
and that a guard would be at my command whenever I wished to go
out. I shall describe all these to you when I get home. I am under
a strict espionage, and worried to death with patients. I saw the
Sultan whilst passing through his palace, and have received his
orders to visit him on Friday. His favourite wife is ill, and the
difficulty is how to let me see her. I have refused to prescribe for
her, without. The court physician is here twice a-day, and I have
assisted him in one or two cases, and he thinks there never was such
a doctor. A Seidlitz powder astonished him beyond all belief. I go
next week to Atlas to visit some strange cities inhabited by Jews. Of
these I shall write to his Royal Highness. El Hadge is here again,
to say the Sultán has sent him to say that five of his guard will
be here in the morning to conduct me to the great markets, and after
this to an inspection of the cavalry, and to ask if anything can be
done to make me more comfortable.”
Notwithstanding his incessant and wearisome occupation as both
physician and apothecary to the Maroquine Court, Mr. Davidson found
leisure for scientific inquiries, not forgetting those to which his
attention had been particularly directed by H. R. H. the President of
the Royal Society, who with his well-known condescension had desired
this enterprising traveller to correspond with him. The result of
his first inquiries was communicated in these terms:—
“_Morocco, 3d February,_ 1836.
“SIR,—I have deferred taking advantage of your Royal Highness’s
condescension in permitting me to address you, hoping that I should
’ere this have made my excursion to the five villages in the valley
of the Southern Atlas inhabited by Jews, who differ much from any
I have yet met with. Hitherto I have been able to glean but little
from the few who visit the city, which is principally supplied by them
with charcoal; but having this day received the Sultan’s permission
to proceed and to continue my journey to Wadnoon (from which place I
hope to join a caravan now collecting, to proceed to Soudan), should
I succeed in this, I should not have an opportunity of addressing
your Royal Highness; an honour of which I shall ever feel most proud.
“The Jews of Atlas are far superior, both physically and morally, to
their brethren residing among the Moors. Their families are numerous,
and each of these is under the immediate protection of a Berber (the
aboriginal inhabitants of North Africa), patron, or master. They have,
however, their own Sheik, a Jew, to whose jurisdiction all matters
are referred. Differing from the Jews residing amongst the Moors, who
are punished by the Mussulman laws, they are not in the same state
of debasement or servitude; their case is one of patron and client,
and all enjoy equal privileges, and the Berber is bound to take
up the cause of the Jew upon all emergencies. They all carry arms,
and serve by turns with their patrons. They state [that] they did
not go to the Babylonish captivity; that they possess many writings;
that they have a city cut out of the solid rock, with rooms above
rooms, in which they dwelt upon [their] first coming to this country;
and that there are some writings carved in these rocks which they
attribute to some early Christians who came and drove them into
the valley [which] they now inhabit. As I purpose making some few
days’ stay amongst them, under the plea of searching for medicinal
plants, I hope to be able to furnish your Royal Highness with some
interesting particulars respecting these people, and to discover
if these reports be true. I have received an invitation from their
patriarch, who wishes to be informed the day before I visit them;
it being his intention (having heard I had paid some attention to the
sick Jews residing here) to come out to meet me. Your Royal Highness
will scarcely credit the ignorance and debasement of the Jews of
Morocco. The chief of the Millah, their quarter, was astonished to
hear that the Bible used by the Christians contained the Psalms of
David; and much more so, to hear that the Psalms were sung daily
in our churches. I have endeavoured in vain to learn anything from
them on your Royal Highness’s question as to the change of their
time. I have been detained above a month in this city, owing to
the indisposition of the Sultan, and the sickness of many of his
favourites, and have been appointed court-physician. My stock of
medicines is nearly exhausted, and having to see, upon an average,
fifty patients a day, and compound the whole of the medicines myself,
my own health has begun to suffer. Although I am fed from the royal
table, I have no time to take my food; my patients coming at break
of day, and remaining till dark; and I am seldom able to prepare
the necessary medicines before midnight.
“I have a respite, if it may be so called, having to go to the
Sultan every morning, but then all his ladies have something to
ask for; and before I see his Highness I have to write from the
mouths of the eunuchs all the ladies’ complaints, and bring them
something the next day. This is unknown to his Highness, to whom
I have respectfully refused to prescribe, unless I can [see] my
patients. The head-physician has been ordered to spend two hours
a-day in my room, to learn my treatment, and his son is to come in
the evening, and see the mode of compounding medicines. The common
Moorish doctors, who have but one remedy, firing, have been sent to
perform their cures before me; I have had to make a report upon the
state of medical science in all the countries I have visited, and to
examine the few medicines they use, and state my opinions. Having
accidentally stated [that] I believed many of their complaints
arose from the manner of preparing their food, I have had to taste
all the Sultan’s dishes, to mix simple drinks for him, and to
look at the soil in which his vegetables are cultivated. But all
to no purpose; they prefer their own plan to any recommendation of
mine. I am happy, however, to inform your Royal Highness, that by
strictly complying with their wishes, and having been more than
[ordinarily] fortunate in my practice, I have made many friends,
succeeded in removing suspicion, and obtained from the Sultán the
promise of every assistance. He has presented me with a fine horse,
given me a guard of ten soldiers, and promised me one hundred to
escort me to Wadnoon, where his territory finishes. I am in treaty
with the Sheik of Wadnoon, having offered him one thousand dollars
if he will ensure my life to Timbuctoo; and the only difference
now is between accident or climate. But as I well know that every
accident will be construed into climate, I will not pay the sum till
he places me in the city. I beg now most respectfully to present my
humble duty to your Royal Highness, and with my fervent prayers that
your Royal Highness’s health may be perfectly established,
“I have the honour to remain,
“Your Royal Highness’s very obedient, humble servant,
“JOHN DAVIDSON.”
Early in March, 1836, the Emperor’s health having been restored,
his English physician was at length permitted to travel, not, as he
wished, to the S.E., but to the S.W.; the route by Tâfilêlt being
interdicted by the good-will or jealousy of the Sultán. Mr. Davidson,
however, was prepared for this disappointment, and had already taken
steps to secure a good reception among the Arabs of Wád Nún, on
the north-western border of the Sahrá. On the 7th of March, 1836,
he announced his arrival at Agadir, or Santa Cruz, in a letter to
his brother, which has furnished the following extracts:—
“I was detained by the snow after leaving Morocco. . . . My
reception and stay at court has surprised everybody. I have the
most favourable promises of support and assistance, but do not
believe quite all that is said, the Sultán having made me promise
to return to his empire, and pass some months at Fez, or Mequinez,
to instruct his people in the practice of medicine. Leaving Morocco,
I attempted the ascent of Atlas, at Trasremoot, but at the elevation
of five thousand feet was compelled by the snow to descend. This led
me to visit a line of country as yet unseen by Europeans. I inspected
more than one hundred villages of Jews and Berbers, was well treated,
and orders had been given that at each principal place the governor
should come out to meet me with his people under arms; that the
principal towns should furnish three hundred fowls, ten sheep, and
ten ducats for my maintenance, and provide barley for my horses and
mules, and those of my soldiers. At the places where I only passed,
the chief of the Jews were to come and make offerings of milk and
wine; the former being changed from the primitive or patriarchal
offering of bread. These I had to touch and pour a little of each
on my horse’s mane. This done, food, both raw and dressed, was
offered; and after a sort of song, I was suffered to proceed. At all
the valleys they were desired to bring me the productions, and to
show me any and all plants used as food or medicines; and on these
I had to pronounce an opinion.
“My practice as a medical man has been so fortunate, and my
distribution of medicines so general, that I have had work to answer
even the questions. During my stay in Morocco, twelve hundred persons
passed through my hands, and I had, at one time, the Sultán, several
of his Ladies, the whole of the Ministry, the Cadi and Judicial Corps,
the Commander of the Forces, and the Four Great Saints, Seedy Ben
Abbas, Seedy Abdel Kader, Seedy Bush Eid, and Seedy Omberak,[147]
under my care. The Zaire, of whom I wrote to you, and who intended to
make me their prisoner, have broken into open warfare, and the people
here are only waiting for the Sultán’s departure for the north to
commence a disturbance. These people are all favourable to letting
me pass, and the Suses and the Waled Abusebas,[148] whom I had been
told to fear, have sent to beg of me to come on. My present difficulty
is to get out of this empire. I have the Sultán’s order to remain
at Terodant,[149] he having no power to protect me beyond this; but
Sheik Beirock, of Wadnoon, informs he will; and had I not applied to
the Sultán for a letter of protection, he would have taken me and
passed me across the Desert, provided I would pay him a consideration.
“He will send me by a route used only by his couriers; but for this,
at this season, I must take water and provision for two months, and
send on some dromedaries, which will be posted about midway, where I
have to halt; and by leaving my tired ones, and proceeding without
a stop, I shall be able to pass before the Tuaricks have knowledge
of my arrival. All this I feel I can do; but my companion, Abou, is,
I am afraid, quite unequal to it. Sheik Beirock’s brother, who is
with me, tells me Abou will be a safe passport for me, as soon as
I arrive in Soudan: that one of his family is the present Sheik of
Timbuctoo, and that his cousin, the son of Abou’s uncle, from whom
he was stolen, is now the king of Houssa. He was fully acknowledged
at Morocco, and my dragoman had orders from the palace to treat him
with respect, as he was a Muley (prince). How we shall get on, I know
not. I shall write one letter after I know the Sultán’s intention,
but if you should not hear for some months, you may rest satisfied
[that] I have passed Wadnoon. I feel that the same Providence which
has hitherto preserved and protected me, will guard me through all
the difficulties and dangers I am about to encounter. Should I not
get on, I shall make a virtue of necessity, return to the Sultán at
Fez, and make the best excuse to get to Tâfilêlt. I am, thank God,
quite well, and have commenced training, taking two spare meals a-day,
living principally on bread, rice, eggs, and weak tea; no wine, and
very rarely meat; exposing myself much to the sun, and sleeping in
the air.”
The Sultán had commanded Mr. Davidson to wait at Téródánt,
the capital of Sús el aksá, about forty miles south-east of Santa
Cruz, till he should be able to afford him a secure protection in
his progress southwards: but a correspondence already established
by the traveller with the Arab chief of Wád Nún, who is in name
only subject to the emperor, and has the power of securing a passage
across the desert, and impatience of further detention after so long
a delay, made him anxiously entreat permission to advance as far as
Wád Nún, and instead of remaining at Téródánt,[150] he repaired
to Suweïrah or Mogador, about seventy miles due north of Santa Cruz,
where he had the advantage of enjoying the society of Mr. Willshire,
British Vice-Consul, on whose aid in promoting his views he knew he
could rely. From that place he had again an opportunity of addressing
the Duke of Sussex.
“_Mogador, March 18th,_ 1836.
“SIR,—After a fruitless attempt to cross the western branch
of Mount Atlas, owing to the unusual quantity of snow, I have been
obliged to come to this place, which affords me another opportunity
of taking advantage of your Royal Highness’s condescension
in permitting me to address you. Having received the Sultán’s
consent to cross the mountains for the purpose of visiting the Jews,
I left Morocco for Mesfywa, and taking the route by Trasremoot,
reached an elevation of 5,000 feet; but here the loose character of
the snow, and the uncertainty of the track, obliged me to abandon
my project. I was accompanied in this journey by a Rabbi, from the
district of Coubba or Cobba, to which place it was my intention to
have proceeded. From this man I received much curious information,
and have yet great hopes of reaching the people of whom he spoke, and
to whom he belongs, before I return to England. He informed me that in
this place, nearly as extensive as that in which the city of Morocco
is situated, there are not less than 3,000 or 4,000 Jews living in
perfect freedom, and following every variety of occupation; that they
have mines and quarries which they work, possess large gardens and
extensive vineyards, and cultivate more corn than they can possibly
consume; that they have a form of government, and have possessed this
soil from the time of Solomon; in proof of which he stated [that]
they possess a record bearing the signet and sign of Joab, who came
to collect tribute from them in the time of the son of David; that
the tradition of their arrival here runs thus:—‘Crossing the
Great Sea to avoid the land of Egypt, they came to a head of land
with a river; that here they landed, and following the course of
this leading westward, but going toward the south, they came to a
spot where they found twelve wells and seventy palm-trees. This at
first led them to suppose that they had by some means got to Elim;
but finding the mountains on the west, they were satisfied that they
had reached a new country: finding a passage over the mountains, they
crossed and took up their dwelling in this valley, first in caves,
which exist in great numbers, then in others which they excavated,
and after this began to build towns; that at a distant period,
they were driven across the mountains by a people that would not
acknowledge them, and that some remained at Diminet, Mesfywa,
and other places on the western side of the range.’ Looking at
the map, and following this man’s observations, it is perfectly
easy to trace them. They must have reached the gulf of Tremesen, and
taking the river Muluwia, or Mahala, have reached Tâfilêlt, where,
to this day, are twelve wells planted round with seventy palm-trees,
and which many of the Jews call Elim; and from this they [must] have
taken the pass to which I attempted to get. Knowing the interest your
Royal Highness takes in all that refers to the history of the Jews,
I have offered this man fifty dollars to obtain a copy of the record
upon a skin of the same size and pattern as that which contains it,
and ten dollars for the copy of two tombstones to which the Jews make
their pilgrimages, and these he promises to send to the Jew agent
in Morocco in six months, provided I do not in the mean time visit
Coubba. On asking him, if at any period they had a great accession
to their number, or if he knew anything of the breaking off of the
tribes, he seemed anxious to drop the subject, and told me that the
more learned men whom I should see at Coubba could better inform me;
that from time to time, Jews came to them, but that these tombs and
the writings they possess contain all their history. This man returned
with me. I was most anxious to know the meaning of the names of some
of the towns: he told me what the Moors call Mesfywa is Oom Siwá,
the Mother of Siwá,[151] one of their families which crossed [the
mountains]; that Ourïka[152] of the Moors, distant thirty miles,
was ’Rebka, founded by one of their daughters, and that most of
these places had originally Hebrew names. At Ourïka he left me. I
continued for eight days to visit the towns inhabited by the Jews,
to the number of above one hundred, and I should say that on this
side there are more Jews dwelling with the Berbers in the mountains
than resident in Morocco. They have all the same account of Coubba,
and have a great belief in the Cabāllists, who they say still exist,
and who receive direct communication from Heaven. I here send your
Royal Highness a few of the names of the principal towns, but having
lost my Rabbi interpreter, cannot procure the meaning of them: Argum,
Rōōsempt, Towra, Towright, Ai Tattab, Tamazert, Zowisiderhald,
Tedēēli, Tisgin (very large, two hundred families), A Mismish
(one hundred and fifty families), Sefélmal, to the town on the Wad
el Fis.”
The remainder of this letter is taken up with an account of a singular
physiological phenomenon, if Mr. Davidson was not misled by erroneous
information. He says that he had been told hermaphrodites are found
in great numbers in the empire of Morocco, that they are avoided
as impure, and specially mentioned in the Muselman law; that the
Sultán’s minister, Sídí Ibn Idrís, one of the best-informed
persons in the empire, assured him that there are numbers of them at
Fez. The only individual called a khunthá, or hermaphrodite, whom
Mr. Davidson had an opportunity of examining, was one of those cases
of imperfect formation which are occasionally met with in Europe.
At the close of the above letter he adds, “I am happy to inform
your Royal Highness that I have the greatest support from Ben
Dríss in favour of my proceeding to Soudan; and he hopes the
Sultán will order my return by Tâfilêlt to Fez. I have completed
my arrangements with the Sheik of Wád Nún, who undertakes, for a
sum which I deposit in the hands of the consul here, Mr. Willshire,
who has managed the matter with great judgment, to place me safely
in Timbuctoo, provided the Sultán of Morocco does not object. I
only wait the answer to the letters sent to make this request. My
companion Abou’s family is still on the throne of Timbuctoo; Hamed
Libboo, the present king, being one of his cousins, and Fehidier,
king of Houssa, another of his relations, and Woled Munsor Enēēloo,
king of Bambara, is well known to him.”
In the month of April, 1836, Mr. Willshire, H. B. Majesty’s
vice-consul in the empire of Morocco, received the emperor’s royal
passport for Davidson and his companion to proceed from Agadeer to
Wád Nún, in consequence of which they immediately set out, and
reached that place on the 22nd of April,[153] but as no caravan was
then likely to be assembled, they were long detained in that sultry
region. During this interval Mr. Davidson again addressed the Duke
of Sussex.
“_Tekínecou. Wadnoon, 3d July,_ 1836.
“SIR,—Presenting my humble duty to your Royal Highness,
I beg leave to offer my most grateful thanks for the letter and
its enclosures, and for which I shall ever feel indebted to your
Royal Highness’s condescension. This, with other letters, found me
returned to this place, after several ineffectual attempts to prevail
upon any of the tribes to escort me across the Sahara,[154] on the
confines of which I have been for the last three months, with the
prospect of a further detention to the commencement of September. The
objection of the Sultán of Morocco to my entering the district of
Suse is owing, as he stated, to the dangerous and unsettled state
of the country. The difficulties and delays with which I had to
contend in passing through the numerous tribes now settled in the
countries of Upper and Lower Suse, having no semblance of government
and acknowledging no power, brought me to Wád Nún, too late for the
spring Cafilas,[155] and at a period when the intense heat deterred
even the Arabs from attempting the Sahara. Money, that all-powerful
engine, prevailed upon five of the best of the Dummanees, who came
with the van of the great Cafila from Soudan, to undertake with Sheiks
Mohammed and Khiafee (who have each made the journey twenty times)
to conduct me in safety to Timbuctoo, provided they were guaranteed a
certain sum of money; but this only at the request of Sheik Beyrock,
under whose protection I have been for the last three months, and
for whose permission to pass I have already paid very heavily. All
our arrangements were completed the 6th of June, the day appointed
for starting. On the 4th of this month the Great Cafila, which was
twenty days behind its time, reached the encampment from which I was
to have started: this brought sad news. It had been attacked twice on
the route; the last time only four days’ journey from this place,
thirteen persons killed, much property taken, and many slaves set
at liberty. The Dummanees had charge at this time, and were bound to
avenge this. They attacked a large encampment of the tribe Erdghebat,
the assailants of the Cafila, carried off one thousand camels, three
hundred horses, and twenty-eight of the choicest slaves. This at
once sounded the tocsin. All the tribes were in arms, each calling
upon the other to take their parts. The Erdghebat attacked the town
of Tajacanth, two days’ journey (forty-six miles) from this, but
were repulsed by the Dummanees, in whose district the town is, with
the loss of forty killed and one hundred wounded, most of whom have
been brought to me for attendance, the Dummanees losing but four
men, and having sixty wounded, many of whom also are here. Sheik
Beyrock is almost the only person whose people are not involved in
this quarrel. He is the great arbiter and the most powerful of them
all. They have all sent deputations to him, which has afforded me an
opportunity of seeing portions of most of the tribes. My position is
far from enviable; the jealousy and _amour propre_ of these people is
beyond all belief. I am charged with favouring one whose large arm
requires two splints to support the fractured bone, or looking down
upon another as puny, because I give him but two pills, whilst others
less daring than himself take three. I have, however, managed to keep
pretty good friends with all of them. This place offers but little of
interest on which to address your Royal Highness. I hope I shall be
enabled during my stay to correct some trifling geographical errors,
particularly as to the course of two rivers passing through the
district, and the Wad Draha,[156] which finds its way to the sea. I
have, however, the satisfaction of informing your Royal Highness that
I have positively arranged my departure, under a heavy forfeiture
and disgrace for non-compliance on the part of the Dummanees, for
the 21st of Jumád Awwal, our 1st of September, to halt three days at
Tajacanth, and to perform the journey to Timbuctoo within forty days:
for this, however, I have to pay very heavily. The arrangement has
been made since I commenced this letter, which I have the honour of
addressing to your Royal Highness, discussing the matter two days;
since when many of the chiefs of the tribes were here, by express
order of Sheik Beyrock. I told them at once that I wanted to go to
Soudan; they knew it, and had been sent for the purpose; that the two
Sheiks, Mohammed and Ali, of the Dummanees, were to take me, and that
I had already given Sheik Beyrock what he asked to ensure my safety,
and now wanted to know what they would require for their camels and
escort; the sum demanded was so exorbitant that I said at once I
would give the matter up, go back to Fez, and request the Sultán
to send me on. Upon this, the Deleïm[157] said, ‘You don’t go
back without giving me five hundred dollars to pass my district.’
The Abousebah,[158] a day’s journey to the north of him, said,
‘If the Deleïm gets this, so will I.’ I appealed to the Sheik,
who said he was as much astonished as I was. Seeing this, one of the
party, who was the constant referee, said, ‘Christian, we are all
pledged to protect your person: no one will harm a hair of your head;
stop where you like; your person is safe; we all know your name—Ben
Daoud.[159] We have promised this to Sheik Beyrock. One from each
tribe will be with you, but pay you shall. We said nothing about your
money; all we were asked was to protect your person, to swear none
should harm you. Depend upon us; we keep our word, but go which way
you will, you shall pay.’ The Sheik begged me to leave it in his
hands: he admits he has drawn a great expense upon me, and has told
me, under the circumstances, to write to the vice-consul at Mogador,
who knows all these people, [in order to] get him to say what I
ought to give, and he will make up the rest. Seeing my position,
and recollecting the sibyl’s books, I offered one-half the amount
asked to take me to Timbuctoo, which within the last hour has been
accepted, and we have eaten some salt since.
“I find here still the Jews. The same precise account of their
arrival and taking up their residence in the valleys of Atlas. One
is here from Jerusalem begging alms, unusual amongst the Jews. He
is advanced in years, quite blind, and has kept constant pace with
me, taking advantage of my escorts from Tangier to this place: is
anxious to get to Arowan,[160] where there is a very learned Rabbi. I
cannot help him; my means will not allow me. They ask nearly as
much for his passage as my own; having a greater fear of the Jews
getting to Soudan than the Christians. I trust by this time your
Royal Highness has recovered your perfect sight, hoping that about
the period of this letter’s reaching England, your Royal Highness
will have received the copies of the inscriptions from the tombs of
the district of Mesfywa. I can hardly expect the copy of the record
from Couba or Kobba will reach Morocco till the end of the autumn,
when the Rabbi told me he should be returning, and would deliver it
to the Consular Agent, the Jew Courkoss, to whom I have several times
written. My companion begs most respectfully to present his duty,
and hopes your Royal Highness will deign to receive the few lines
from his pen, which he begs me to enclose. I am sorry to say I have
great fears for his health; he cannot bear fatigue, and has been
attacked with ophthalmia. The whole of the Soudan people know him,
and tell me he will prove a certain passport; that he is a cousin
of Hamed Libboo; and another of his cousins, Ali, called Koutouk,
the warrior, is now king of Kong, and that many of his family are
at Kong, all rich and in power.
“Hoping this will find your Royal Highness in the enjoyment of
perfect health, and trusting shortly to have the honour of addressing
your Royal Highness from Soudan,
“I have the honour to be, &c. &c.
“JOHN DAVIDSON.”
In the territory of Wád Nún the traveller’s patience was severely
put to the test. He was detained there from April till November. From
Glamiz he wrote to his brother, on the 25th September, as follows:—
“Since my last letter, I have made three ineffectual attempts at
getting on, although I now begin to feel somewhat confident that
Sheik Beyrock, with whom I still am, never intended sending me till
the end of this month, he being so fully pledged for my safety and
due arrival, that fearing the heat and the unsettled, nay warring,
state of the tribes, did not choose to run these double additional
risks. On the 25th of this month there is, by mutual consent, a
general cessation of hostilities, to enable the tribes to attend
the great Socco[161] of El Shig, held at ten hours’ ride from
this place, and at which the Arabs dispose of the produce of their
flocks and tents, and lay in their provisions for the whole year. The
armistice lasts for six days, to give time for going and returning,
the market occurring on the 28th and 29th. Of this it is intended I
should take advantage, and as my people do not purchase anything,
but merely come as a cloak and take me off, we shall get full
three days’ start, and be nearly out of the reach of danger. I
am now going on in a very different style from that mentioned
in my last, partly by taunting the Tajacanths as being cowards,
and more perhaps by holding out to them the rich harvest they may
gain by having the whole market for salt, purchased at Toudeyny,
which supplies Soudan, to themselves. Paying, as I am, an enormous
sum to go on, and advancing money for the purchase of salt, to be
repaid on arrival at Timbuctoo, or, in the event of an accident,
to be returned to Sheik Beyrock, who is to replace it in the hands
of the Vice-Consul at Mogador, I now take the whole of this portion
of the Tajacanths, to the number of two hundred men and six hundred
camels. Our arrangement is as follows: On the 25th, when the Sheiks
with two hundred camels and sixty men start, as if to visit the Socco,
two hundred camels with corn and water will proceed direct to the
Sahara; thirty camels will be detached from those accompanying the two
Sheiks, and come here for my baggage, which by this, you will say,
is no trifle, the presents I am obliged to carry and the money (the
cowries), ten camel-loads of which does not amount to one hundred
pounds sterling, being all bulky. After shewing themselves at the
Socco, they will join me on the road; we shall proceed to the tents,
where we shall arrive on the 28th. A second two hundred camels with
sixty men will proceed immediately. We remain two days to pack up
our tents and grind zimeta,[162] the food eaten on the road, and
carrying nothing with us but my baggage, which will now be divided
between fifty and sixty camels, and make all speed to overtake the two
former divisions. We shall materially lessen the load of the first,
by giving drink and food to our own beasts, and loading those who
for three or four days have carried nothing; and in this way push on
to the first division, making no stop, with but very short nights,
till we arrive at Towdeyny; there all will be loaded with salt,
and this will require from eight to ten days. I hope, however, to
find Hamed Libboo’s nephew there, and who no sooner hears there
will be no regular Cafilá this year than he will be off with the
news. I shall join him, provided poor Abou, about whom I have great
fears, as you shall presently hear, can bear the journey. All are
in great spirits, the people here believing that I have suffered so
much on my last trip, from which I returned four days ago, that I
have abandoned the idea of going on, and am now only waiting till I
see El Shig, and go back to Fez. This is all very good, and I keep up
this story: ’tis a very unsavoury one for me, as I cannot make the
least preparation in the way of food for the journey, and forty-five
days’ hard travelling, and barley and dates ground up together and
mixed with milk or water, is but poor food. Meat is given but twice,
at Toudeyny and Arowan, at both which places the Cafilas rest. I
have had a task of ten days’ hard work on dry bread, and that not
the sweetest at the end of the time, and one piece of fish, but am
better in health for it, but not much fattened by it. My two first
excursions were productive of little information or amusement; not
so my last, which was replete with incident, and afforded me both
pleasure and information. We started from this place, accompanied
by the Sheik, and about a dozen friends and house slaves, under the
impression that we could have reached the tents of the Tajacanths,
to which, if we got, my things were to have been immediately
forwarded. The first day convinced us of the impossibility of this,
and not wishing to appear foiled or disappointed, we proceeded to
the river Draha,[163] passing a beautiful country as far as scenery,
but wholly without drinkable water, and came to the sea where this
river empties itself. I had not for some weeks past eaten any of
the food cooked in the Sheik’s house, but had been living on some
stuff furnished by the Jews residing here: they received orders to
prepare a bag of bread for the Christians, with which we started,
the Sheik carrying tea and sugar; after a ride of eight hours, we
halted at a very powerful spring of water, but so salt, that neither
the Sheik’s horse nor mine would drink, and by a sort of law here,
horses are neither allowed food nor water for twelve hours before they
commence a journey: four small loaves were divided among the party,
and those who liked took a saline draught, not an effervescent one. We
remained half an hour, and proceeded, crossing a fine chain of hills,
starting many herds of gazelles, and after two hours arrived at a
large encampment, where we slept. Tea was made, but of the same water
we had passed, and the boiling had far from improved its saltness. The
preparation for dinner was too disgusting, and I will spare it you. We
started the following day before day-break: the heat being excessive,
we were obliged to cover the stirrups, &c. with our haiks.[164]
At one P.M., going S.E., the thermometer was 140°—112° in our
tents at night. Reached the wells, and found much cattle, but water
salt. Here we got plenty of camels’ milk. Rode till six; halted, and
killed two large wolves and many snakes. Off early, and crossed the
mountains of Ab-el-Assel,[165] at the foot of which we found Bahra,
one of Sheik Beyrock’s sons-in-law, with 1,000 camels. Here I saw
much of Arab life—the settlement of points of law, marriages, and
divorces. Here the story-teller and the bard divided the night between
them. The wild Arab girl danced and sung the praises of the Sheik,
and the poor Christian had a ditty composed in his favour. Next day
we turned towards the sea; killed some wild boars; at the sea, got
some fish;—and turned homewards, taking a different route: but no
water except salt. I was ten days on this journey, and travelled,
on an average, ten hours a day. Before this reaches you I shall be
on my way to Timbuctoo. An express will be sent on my arrival.
“Faithfully yours,
“JOHN DAVIDSON.”
On the 2d day of November, he says, in addressing Lord Palmerston,—
“Since my letter to your lordship I have visited Sheik Beyrock. The
map is but an indifferent guide; there is no such river as the
Akassa; it is the Assaka, running near to this place: between this
and Glamiz there are two other rivers, not laid down at all, the
Boukoukmar and Syad. The point at which Sheik Beyrock wishes to form
his port is the mouth of the river Draha (from El Wad Draha),[166]
which, according to my reckoning, is 32 miles S.W. of Cape Noon,
and should occupy the place marked on the map Akassa.
“I fear Sheik Beyrock has far overstated his means, but not at all
the capabilities of the country. I am confident much may be done,
in a commercial point of view, with these people, but he wants a
better port than the Wad Draha—shallow water, heavy surf, and many
sand-banks: he has, however, shown much judgment in the selection
of his position.
“The Wad Draha, rising a little S.W. of Tâfilêlt, runs through
the productive districts of Draha and El Harib,[167] passing near to
Tatta and Akka, skirting lower Suse, finds its way through the fertile
country possessed by the tribes of Errub, Draha, Maraibait, Tajacanth,
and Ergebat. These people can furnish large quantities of produce, and
could, according to their own account, be great consumers, could they
purchase goods on more reasonable terms. These people have in their
hands the largest portion of the Soudan trade in gold, gum, ivory,
and ostrich feathers; they rear large quantities of wool and skins,
and in the districts N. and E. of this, immense quantities of oil,
wax, hides, and almonds.”
On the 11th of that month, Mr. Vice-Consul Willshire informed
the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society that on the 3d
Mr. Davidson, at whose patience and high courage he expresses
his astonishment, wrote in spirits at the prospect of leaving a
place where he had suffered so many annoyances, vexations, and
disappointments:—
“‘Even now,’ he adds, ‘after waiting for the Cafila, which
will be immense, near 400 men, and, they say, 2,000 camels, I am not
even going with it. I should, by all accounts, as a Christian and
a doctor, be worried to death. I go straight from this to Arowan,
never touching the Cafila route at all; we shall not see a single
tent. There are some wells, known only to two or three of the
guides. We take five naggas (she camels) for milk, the five men,
and Mohammed El Abd, some zimēta (barley meal). I take the biscuit
for Abou and self; each carries a skin of water, to be touched only
if the milk fails: thirty days to bring us to Arowan, and five more
to Timbuctoo.’
“I have made the above extracts to assure you that the arrangements
were made, and Mr. Davidson ready to start at a moment’s notice, and
that in the course of two or three days I hope to have the pleasure
to acquaint you of his having proceeded on his journey. Once away
from Wád Nún, and I have every and the fullest confidence of his
efforts being crowned with success.
“I have the honour to be, Sir,
“Your most obedient servant,
“WM. WILLSHIRE.”
“P.S.—I open this letter to add, I have received a letter from
Mr. Davidson, dated Saturday, the 5th inst., who appears in high
spirits, and writes,—
“‘The start is to be on Monday, although I do not go on that day;
everything is now packed up, and placed ready to be put on the camels,
with which Abou starts at day-break on Monday. I am to be left here,
as if having sent him on. Mohammed El Abd remains behind. On Wednesday
or Thursday, according to the distance made by the camels on the
first day, we start on horseback, accompanied by Beyrock and about
six horsemen, and are to make Yeisst, if possible, in one day. Here
I leave the district of Wadnoon. And to this place is three days’
journey for loaded camels. I here leave my horse and mount my camel,
and we push on to the tents.’
“Mr. Davidson did not start on a sudden, on the 3d inst., as stated
to me by a courier, who brought me a letter from him of that date,
and which I reported in a letter I had the honour to address to
his Majesty’s secretary of state, Viscount Palmerston, on the 8th
inst., and which you will oblige me by correcting and making known
to his lordship.
“Your most obedient servant,
“W. W.”
The following extracts from Mr. Willshire’s letters will give all
the intelligence received respecting the sequel of Mr. Davidson’s
expedition:—
“_Mogadore, 13th Dec.,_ 1836.
“SIR,—I had the pleasure on the 28th ultimo of announcing the
departure of Mr. Davidson from Wadnoon, on his route to Timbuctoo,
and I beg to acquaint you, I have since had the satisfaction to
receive a letter from him, dated Yeisst, 15-16th ult., from whence he
writes to me,—‘All is at length settled, and we start to-morrow
morning at first-day. I believe also the Cafila will be allowed to
proceed, although one mitcal a-head is to be paid by all who pass;
we have here above fifty persons, and one hundred camels. I am unable
to tell you for certain the route I take; this is to depend upon
circumstances. But two persons besides Mohammed El Abd accompany us;
so that after all the talk of Wadnoon, I am going in my original way,
of a party of only five, including Abou and self.’
“Yeisst is three days’ journey south of Wadnoon, from Temzirst,
(which place Mr. Davidson describes as a beautiful ride of eight
hours, and speaks in high terms of the attentions and civilities of
Sheik Hammo, who, with a party of twenty horse, accompanied him from
Temzirst to Yeisst.) Mr. Davidson remarks,—‘Every step we have
taken from Wadnoon we have found the people better, more liberal,
more hospitable, and although somewhat savage, having yet a little
mildness of character, of which there is none at Wadnoon.’
“At the date of the latest letters received from Sheik Beyrock,
Mr. Davidson had been gone from Yeisst eighteen days, without there
being any intelligence of him, which argues favourably for his
safety: the greatest danger being upon the borders of the Desert,
where there are many wandering and warlike tribes.
“I have reason to believe Mr. Davidson and party have pushed on as
fast as possible: the journey was to be done in a very short time,
as the camels were only to drink six times; and by not visiting the
tents of the Tajacanths, nearly six days’ journey would be saved.
“Mr. Davidson, in the concluding paragraph of his letter,
writes—‘I am happy to say I have picked up amazingly, and have
now no fears about my health; and I beg to assure you I flatter
myself with the hope, that the intrepid traveller may pass a merry
new-year’s day at the famed city of Timbuctoo—which event I
trust to have the high pleasure of announcing to you in about three
months, Sheik Mohammed El Abd having promised to be the bearer
of a letter, which he is to deliver for me, and say—There is a
letter from _Yahya Ben Daoud_;[168] the Tajacanths have kept their
word.’—God grant he may, is the hearty and sincere prayer of,
Sir, your most obedient servant,
“WM. WILLSHIRE.”
“To Capt. Maconochie, R.N.”
Translation of a letter from Sheik Beyrock, dated Wadnoon, 1st
day of the month Dual Caada[169] (answering to the 7th instant),
received at Mogadore 13th February, 1837.
“To our friend, Merchant Willshire, English Vice-Consul,
salám,[170] &c.
“We received your letter by the courier, which we have read and
understand, about the news of the Tibbib[171] John Davidson; his
death is certain—the Harib met him—death is the lot of all. We
had arranged with all the tribes of Arabs who are known to plunder
and commit robberies on the road; we had ensured his safety with
them. The Tibbib did not leave our house until we had previously
received security from Eborria (of the tribe of Idowlet), that he
might pass through his district of El Harib; we had no fear, because
they are traders, and convey and pass the merchants of Tâfilêlt,
and receive hire. El Harib did not go _that route_ but to kill him
(the Tibbib), and we have heard that the merchants of Tâfilêlt had
given money to El Harib to murder him. Tâfilêlt is only distant
one or two days’ journey from the usual place of abode of the
tribe of El Harib. As to the property of the Tibbib, nothing has
found its way to this quarter; but should it, I will send it to
you. His property will get to Tâfilêlt, where it will be sold,
and you had better write to the Sultan Mulai Abderrahman, to give
orders to his Viceroy to seek after his books, writings, and property.
“We inform you we have sent a friend to the Tajacanths, ordering a
person to be despatched to Timbuctoo, to bring us Abou, who is gone
there; and have given the strictest orders for every information
and news how it happened, to be sent us.
“As to the envy, like that of Wold Isheme[172] and others we have
heard of, you know better than any one what money the Tibbib had. The
truth of all the news will be known when the horsemen return from the
Tajacanths. We will send it to you, and point out to you the spot or
place where he (the Tibbib) was met, and the day he was murdered. His
death would be first known at Tâfilêlt, from whence it would reach
Fas, as many of the El Harib go to that city. We are far off, which
is the cause of the intelligence being so long before it reached
us. The station of the Tajacanths is twelve days’ journey from
this place, and it is three months that no one has come to us from
thence, except this news, which came from Yeisst. The money which he
(the Tibbib) lent to Mohammed El Abd make yourself easy about it;
the day the caravan returns, we will get repaid, and remit it to
you.—Inshalla[173]—Salam.”
Translation of a letter from Sheik Beyrock, dated Wad Nún, 1st
day of Dual Caada, (answering the 7th inst.), received at Mogadore,
13th February, 1837.
“To Sidi Hadge Abibe, salám,[174] &c.
“As to what you write about the Tibbib John Davidson, the party of
the Harib found (or met) him and killed him, plundering him of all
his property, and that of Mohammed El Abd,[175] which he had with
him of long-cloths and hamburgas. On the day they killed the Tibbib
they seized his companion Abou, and swore to him by the most solemn
oath, if he did not show and tell of the property belonging to the
Christian, they would take his life, upon which he discovered and told
them of everything, which they took and went away with; and the reason
why I did not write to you before now, I had doubts of the truth.
“How comes it that you listen to the words of Wold Isheme, who
writes to the Jew his friend, and tells him the Tibbib had deposited
with us the sum you mention in your letter? why did you not answer
Willshire on the point, as you saw the money he delivered over to
Mohammed El Abd? God be praised, we are known not to be traitors,
like Wold Isheme: however, if his companion Abou comes, he will
relate all the news with his own mouth.
“Be informed we have written to the heads of the Tajacanths, Sidi
Mohammed Dumanee, Sidi Mohammed Ben Annish, and Hamed Moolud,[176]
to send persons like themselves to bring to us his companion Abou,
from wherever he can be found; at all events, if he be alive, you
will see him, Inshalla, and if dead, God’s will be done.
“The words you report, that we had arranged with the Harib to
betray him (the Tibbib), such doings are not our ways, nor could we
degrade ourselves to do so; everyone God will reckon with for the
words he utters.
“For four days we neither ate nor drank, and have sworn by all
that is sacred to be revenged. Whenever the Harib are to be found,
in their tents or on the road, our tribe shall plunder and kill them.
“As regards the property of the Tibbib, if any articles remain in
the hands of the Tajacanths, they will reach you. God knows how much
we have grieved about him, but, God be praised, we did not leave
anything undone for the safety of the Tibbib. We did not think the
Harib would turn traitors to any person sent by us. This has been
done by the traders of Tâfilêlt, who had bribed the Harib to kill
him. God’s will be done: the facts will be known when the two
horsemen return, whom we have despatched to Tajacanth, and which
will be sent to you.—Peace.”
“_Mogadore, 14th February,_ 1837.
“SIR,—I had the melancholy duty, on the 1st instant, to make
you acquainted with the distressing intelligence which had reached
me regarding Mr. Davidson. I am grieved at heart to inform you that
all the accounts I have received since confirm the melancholy tidings.
“The most circumstantial account I have heard, I derived from a Jew
trader of the name of Jacob Ben Cohen, who arrived here from Draha on
the 2d instant, and reported to me that Mr. Davidson had been robbed
on the 29th or 30th of Shaban[177] (thirty-two or thirty-three days
after Mr. Davidson started from Wadnoon), by the tribes of Idowlet
and Ait Atta, in the district of Hameda, four days’ journey from
Tatta, who, receiving from Mr. Davidson eight doubloons and one
hundred dollars, and a loaded camel, allowed the party, consisting
of eighteen persons, to proceed on their route towards Timbuctoo;
Wold Hamdan[178] and Eborria, of Idowlet, and Wold Henna and Wold
Aboo, of the tribe of Ait Atta,[179] he mentioned as the names of
the robbers. My informant stated, that, eight or ten days after,
a marauding party of 100 horsemen of the tribe of El Harib, who
were returning from plundering a place called Bousbeyah,[180] met
Mr. Davidson’s party a little to the south of Egueda, whom they
immediately robbed, and shot Mr. Davidson, who received eight balls,
and when dead, every one discharged their muskets at his body as
a _meritorious act_. At _El Mehamdee_,[181] a town distant six
days from Tatta,[182] where my informant was living, he saw in the
possession of the Arabs and Jews various articles which had belonged
to Mr. Davidson, which he described, and left no doubt on my mind as
to his fate. Among the articles which he had seen, he named a silver
watch, a pocket-compass, sword, three books, a box of medicines,
Japan tea-caddy, beads, and cowries, all of which he _must have
seen_, or he could not have described them so correctly as he did. My
informant could not give a certain account of the fate of poor Abou,
the companion of Mr. Davidson, but understood he had gone on with
the caravan, in which he is partly borne out by the letter received
from Sheik Beyrock yesterday.
“Other accounts state Mr. Davidson and party were travelling some
distance in a parallel route, but rather behind the caravan, which was
first met by the party of El Harib, who were disappointed not to find
Mr. Davidson, _for whom they inquired_. The caravan was stopped; and
afterwards Mr. Davidson came up, when he was instantly shot. Another
report inclines me to believe the Harib at first appeared friendly,
and afterwards seized an opportunity treacherously to murder him at a
place called Sheh’ Keyah,[183] twenty days’ journey from Wadnoon,
and about twenty-seven days distant from Timbuctoo.
“I have been much disappointed that the information received by the
return of the courier I despatched to Wadnoon with letters to Sheik
Beyrock is very meagre and inconclusive. In his letters no allusion
is made to the robbery and murder of Mr. Davidson, as having occurred
at different places, nor is the account of Jacob Ben Cohen supported
in this point by any of the reports which have come to my knowledge,
except the one received by my agent from his son at Morocco, which
states that Mr. Davidson had been robbed, and afterwards allowed
to proceed on his journey. I have no reason to suspect treachery
on the part of Sheik Beyrock, although the reports set afloat by
_Wold Isheme_ are intended to create such a suspicion. The falsity
of the report that Mr. Davidson had deposited a large sum of money
with the Sheik is evident.
“Considering there was a great probability Abou might have been
taken by the tribe of El Harib, and detained as a slave, I directed
the Sheik to procure his release, and to send him to me. By the
answer he has returned, he appears to believe that Abou had gone on
with the caravan, in which case there is not much likelihood of the
horsemen despatched from the station of the Tajacanths overtaking it.
“I beg to acquaint you I have not yet determined upon what steps to
take to collect further information, having only yesterday received
the letters from Sheik Beyrock. It is my wish to despatch a Moor
to proceed to Draha, to recover if possible everything belonging
to Mr. Davidson; the great difficulty is to select a person well
acquainted with the country, and in whom every confidence can be
placed. I attach considerable value to the notes Mr. Davidson may have
made on the route from Wadnoon up to the moment he met his untimely
fate. I have in view a Moorish trader who has travelled in many parts
of the Desert, and if I can come to an arrangement with him, I shall
despatch him to Draha, with directions to proceed to the very spot;
and everything I can do towards elucidating this melancholy affair,
be assured, will be done. I mourn for my friend.
“I remain, &c.
(Signed) “W. WILLSHIRE.”
“P.S.—I have omitted to state, that by the report of Jacob Ben
Cohen, Mr. Davidson met his fate on the 8th day of Ramadan,[184]
answering to the 17th or 18th of December last. Sheh Keya, near the
southern confines of the district of Eguedee,[185] sixteen days from
Tatta, and ten days from Toudeyny.
“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”
“_Mogadore, March 7,_ 1837.
“The answer I have been looking so many days for from Sheik
Beyrock, in reply to a long letter I wrote to him, only reached me
this morning. In it he gives rather a different version from former
reports. At Eguedee, on the 18th day of Ramadan, Mr. Davidson and
a party of Tajacanths, twelve in number, were at a watering-place,
when a party of seventeen of the tribe of El Harib came up. It is
stated, more as a surmise than on certain information, that some of
Mr. Davidson’s party having gone to drink, leaving their muskets
behind, some of the Harib cut off the party thus divided, when two
of them immediately shot Mr. Davidson, and plundered the camels,
tearing and destroying all his books and papers. The Tajacanths,
who were plundered, and afterwards, with Abou, allowed to proceed
on their journey, and are gone on to Timbuctoo, do not appear to
have offered any resistance. The Sheik recalls the assertion made
in a former letter, that the traders of Tâfilêlt had bribed the
Harib to waylay and murder Mr. Davidson.
(Signed) “WM. WILLSHIRE.”
“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”
“_Mogadore, March 14,_ 1837.
“SIR,—A trader of Wadnoon, named Sidi Ali Wold Ifkee, with whom
Mr. Davidson was on intimate terms during his stay at that place,
arrived two days from thence yesterday, called and gave me the
following relation of the melancholy fate of that gentleman, which
I believe can be depended upon, and is deserving of more credit than
any other. The substance is as follows:—
“Mr. Davidson and party were first met by some of the tribes of
Ilowbet and Ait Atta, who took from him some money, and allowed the
party to proceed. The party reached Swekeya,[186] where they rested to
wait for the caravan to come up. On the third day, a party of fifteen,
or more, of the tribe of El Harib arrived at the resting-place,
and after the usual salutations, inquired of Mohammed El Abd who
he was travelling with? when he replied, a shereef, who was going
to Gualata[187] on business. After some little conversation, the
head of the party of El Harib requested Mohammed El Abd to show him
the watering-place, who, leaving his musket behind, and the rest
of the Harib _sitting down_, accompanied him over the sand-hills,
and when out of sight, hearing a report of a musket, Mohammed El
Abd asked what had been done, when the Harib replied, his party had
shot the Christian; he complained bitterly, and said he would rather
they had murdered him. It is stated, that when Mohammed El Abd went
away, one of the Harib pretended to examine his gun, and seized the
opportunity to take aim, and shot Mr. Davidson, who was sitting on
the ground a short distance from the party, who immediately began
to plunder and seize everything belonging to Mr. Davidson, allowing
Mohammed El Abd to keep possession of what property belonged to him,
obliging him first to make oath on the Koran. That the caravan was
not met by the Harib, but has gone on to Timbuctoo, with which Abou,
the companion of Mr. Davidson, travelled.
“Sidi Ali added, that he had reason to believe that the first
robbers gave intelligence of Mr. Davidson’s route to the tribe
of El Harib; and that had not Mr. Davidson stopped, he would have
reached Toudeyny before they could have overtaken him.
“I am most sorry to observe, that I do not entertain a hope of
receiving further or more correct particulars regarding the fate of
Mr. Davidson than what I have communicated. He was aware of the perils
and dangers of the journey; nothing could shake his determination,
and his valuable life has paid the forfeit; but his name will be
handed down to posterity, as one of the many victims who have nobly
fallen in the cause of science.
“I am, &c.
(Signed) “WM. WILLSHIRE.”
“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”
[Extracted from the JOURNAL of the ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY of
LONDON:—
pp. 100—110. Vol. 6th.]
* * * * *
“My name is Abú Bekr es siddík: my birth place is Tumbut. I was
educated in the town of Jenneh (Genneh), and fully instructed in
reading and construing the Koran,—but in the interpretation of it
by the help of commentaries. This was [done] in the city of Ghónah,
where there are many learned men [’ulemá], who are not natives
of one place, but each of them, having quitted his own country,
has come and settled there. The names of these sayyids who dwelt in
the city of Ghónah were as follows:—’Abd-Allah ibn-al Hájj;
Mohammed Wataráwí; Mohammed al Mustafá; Fatík, the white [man]
[al abyad]; Sheïkh ’Abdäl-kádir, Sankarí, from the land of
Fútah Jálló; Ibráhim ibn Yúsuf, from the land of Fútah Tóró;
Ibráhím ibn Abí-l Hásan, from Sillá by descent, but born at
Járrah. These men used to meet together to hear the instructions
of ’Abd-Allah ibn-al Hájji Mohammed Tafsír.
“My father’s name was Karah Músá, the Sherif,[188] Weteráwí,
Tassír, _i.e._ of the royal family.[189] His brothers were named
Idrís [Enoch], ’Abdu-r-rahmán, Mahmúd, and Abú Bekr. Their
father’s name was Már,[190] al Káïd, O’mar ibn Sháhidu-l-muluk
[son of the King’s witness or chief law officer] in the cities of
Tumbut and Jenneh. He[191] was also called Ibn Abú Ibrahím (may
his grave be visited!) was of this country. He was their father’s
first-born, and for that reason my name was called by the name of
his brother Bekr.
“After their father’s death, there was a dissention between them
and their families, and they separated, and went into different
countries of the blacks.[192] _Idrís_ went to _Járrah_, and
married a daughter of Már, al-káïd Abú Bekr: her name was
Ummuyu,—and he dwelt there. _’Abdu-r-rahmán_ travelled as far as
_Kong_. He married the daughter of Abú Thaúmá ’Alí, lord of that
country, and dwelt there. The name of his wife was Sárah. _Mahmúd_
[travelled] to the city of _Ghónah_, and settled there. His wife’s
name was Zuhrá. _Abú Bekr_ remained at _Tumbut_ with the rest of
the family.[193] He was not married at the time I left our country.
“Before all these things happened my father used to travel about
[continually.] He went into the land of Kashinah and Bernú. There
he married my mother, and then returned to Tumbut, to which place my
mother followed him. It came to pass after this, that he remembered
his brethren, repented on account of them, and wept bitterly. He
then ordered his slaves to make ready for their departure with him
[on a journey] to visit his brethren, [and see] whether they were
in [good] health or not. They, therefore, obeyed their master’s
orders, and did so; and went to the town of Jenneh, and from thence
to Kong, and afterwards to Ghónah. There they abode and continued
to serve their master, collecting much gold for him there. In that
country much gold is found in the plains, banks of rivers, rocks,
and stones. They break the stones, and grind them, and reduce them
to dust. This is then put into vessels, and washed with water till
the gold is all collected under the water in the vessels, and the
dust lies above it. They then pour out this mud upon the ground, and
the gold remains in the vessels; and they spread it out to dry. After
that, they try it [on a touchstone], and make such things as they are
able. For money or exchange they use shells, called al woda’,[194]
gold and silver; they also barter goods for goods, according to the
measure of their value.
“My father collected much gold in that country, and sent much
to his father-in-law; together with horses, asses, mules, and
very valuable silk garments brought from Misr, with much wealth,
as a present to him. He was my mother’s father; his name was Al
Háij Mohammed Tafsír, of the countries of Bernú and Kashínah,
both inhabited by his family.
“After this my father fell ill of a fever, and died in the city of
Ghónah. He was buried there, and his brothers went and made a great
lamentation for him. At that time I was a child; I knew nothing of
this, but all these things were told me by some of our old men. They
[my father’s brothers] returned afterwards to their own dwellings,
and Mahmúd [alone] was left in the city of Ghónah.
“My mother’s name was Nághódí, that is, in the Haúsá
tongue; but her real name was Hafsah.[195] Her brothers were named
’Abd-allah Tafsír, As-sifá, Ya’kúb, Yahyà, Sa’ad, Hámid
Bábá, Múmin, ’Othmán, and ’Abdu-lkerim. Her sisters were
Habíbah, Fátimah, Maryam, and Maïmúnah. Their father was named Al
Hájji Mohammed Tafsír, of the cities of Kashínah and Bernú. With
respect to my mother, she was born in the city of Bernú. Her father,
when he went to perform the pilgrimage [to Mecca], left her mother
suckling her, on which account her name was called Nághódí.
“My brothers were named ’Omar, Sálih, Sa’íd, Músá
Bábà, Múmin, ’Abd-allah, Suleïmán, Mustafá, Yúsuf, and
’Abdu-r-rahmán; but my mother’s side, Sálih only. My sisters
were ’A’yishah, Aminah, Selímah, Hawái [Eve], and Keltum;
but Aminah only on my mother’s side. These men and these women
issued, all of them, from the stock of the Sheïkh ’Abdu-l-kádir,
the sheríf, and their family name is Mór.
“About five years after my father’s death, I asked my instructor,
who taught me the Koran, to go with me to the city of Ghónah to
visit my father’s grave. He answered, ‘Yea, Abú Bekr assiddík,
if it please God, I will do that thou dost desire.’ He then prepared
himself, and sought for provision for the road; and he was followed by
a large company of his disciples,[196] who bewailed him. We reached
the city of Kong, and afterwards went on to the city of Ghónah;
and abode there a long time, reckoning that country as our own. We
found protection[197] in that country. Two years after our arrival
in Ghónah, it entered into my teacher’s heart to set out on the
pilgrimage; and while he was making diligent enquiries from people
who were going to perform the pilgrimage, some men told him of the
business of Mohammed Keshín and his brother ’Omar, and Adam, of
the land of Buntukhú. He then began to make inquiries of the people
of Buntukkú, and they told him that Omar and Mohammed Keshín had
departed, and had left Adam behind; that he was not [now] going,
but wished to go. My master made haste to seek for him in some of
the towns, and left me in the city of Ghónah with my uncle Mahmúd.
“At this time we heard the news of the business of Adingharah,
Sultán of Buntukkú, after the Sultán of Bandah, or Inkoransá,
who was named Afwá, had been killed. They say Adinkarah wished
to kill Kujóh, governor of Kolongzhwí, a town belonging to
the Sultán of Ghónah. He wished to kill him, because of what
happened between him and Dikkì, his deputy [who had been killed
by Kujóh]. Adinkarah, therefore wished to put the latter to death
by way of retaliation. Adinkarah, Sultán of Buntukkú, sent to
Kujóh, requiring him to pay a great deal of gold as a ransom for
his life,[198] and Kujóh sent what he required; but he refused to
accept it, and said to Kujóh’s messenger, ‘Return to thy master,
and say to him, “Unless thou increase it by 200 times as much,
I will not accept it; but my sword shall take his head from off his
neck; thou shalt die a swift death.” When this messenger came to
his master, and told him these words, Kujóh stretched out his hand,
took back the gold, and kept it; and likewise sent a messenger to
the Sultán of Ghónah to tell him what had happened.
“Then was Adinkarah very wroth; and he ordered all his captains
to gather all their soldiers together, and follow him to make
war against Kujóh, and to kill him, that they might avenge the
death of his servant Dikkí. When the Sultán of Ghónah heard that
Adinkarah, Sultán to Buntukkú, and his army, had come against them
to kill them, he and all his host, together with Kujóh, rose up to
meet them, and marched against them as far as the town of Bolóh,
choosing to attack them there; and there they fought from mid-day till
evening. Then they separated, and returned to their own places. Seven
days afterwards, they again gathered themselves together, and engaged
in battle, at the town of Amvighóh. It was a hard fought battle,
and many souls perished on that day. Thus did Adinkarah overcome the
King of Ghónah, and take the town of Amvighóh. The people of Ghónah
fled, and some of them passed on [as far as] to the city of Kong.
“On that day was I made a slave. They tore off my cloths, bound me
with ropes, laid on me a heavy burden, and carried me to the town
of Buntukkú, and from thence to the town of Kumásí, the King
of Ashantí’s town. From thence through Askumá and Ajimmakúh,
in the land of Fantí, to Daghóh, near the salt sea.
“There they sold me to the Christians, and I was bought by a certain
captain of a ship of that town. He sent me to a boat, and delivered
me to the people of the ship. We continued on board ship, at sea, for
three months, and then came on shore in the land of Jamaica. This was
the beginning of my slavery until this day. I tasted the bitterness
of slavery from them,[199] and its oppressiveness; but praise be
to God, under whose power are all things, He doth whatsoever he
willeth! No one can turn aside that which he hath ordained, nor can
any one withhold that which He hath given! As God Almighty himself
hath said:—Nothing can befal us unless it be written for us (in
his book)! He is our master: in God, therefore, let all the faithful
put their trust!
“The faith of our families is the faith of Islám. They circumcise
the foreskin; say the five prayers;[200] fast every year in the month
of Ramadán; give alms as ordained in the law; marry [only] four free
women—a fifth is forbidden to them except she be their slave; they
fight for the faith of God; perform the pilgrimage [to Mecca]—_i.e._
such as are able so to do; eat the flesh of no beast but what they
have slain for themselves; drink no wine—for whatever intoxicates
is forbidden unto them; they do not keep company with those whose
faith is contrary to theirs,—such as worshippers of idols, men who
swear falsely by the name of the Lord, who dishonour their parents,
commit murder or robbery, bear false witness, are covetous, proud,
insolent, hypocrites, unclean in their discourse, or do any thing
that is forbidden: they teach their children to read, and [instruct
them in] the different parts of knowledge; their minds are perfect
and blameless according to the measure of their faith.
“Verily I have erred and done wickedly, but I entreat God to guide
my heart in the right path, for he knoweth what is in my heart,
and whatever [can be pleaded] in my behalf.
“Finished in the month of August, on the 29th day, in the year of
the Messiah
1834 [1835].”
From this narrative we collect that the writer of it was born at
Tumbuktú, about the year 1794; that his grandfather ’Omar was an
al-káïd, or magistrate, in that city and in Jenneh on the Jálibá
or Niger, and son of the king’s witness, one of the principal
law-officers of the state. Kong, where his uncle Abdu-r-rahmán
settled, is the place in the chain of mountains running parallel
with the southern coast of Africa, the position of which was pointed
out to Mungo Park. Its distance and bearing with respect to Jenneh,
as far as Abú Bekr could give any notion of them, appear to agree
nearly with the position assigned to it in Mr. J. Arrowsmith’s
Map of Africa. Ghónah, the residence of Mahmúd, another of Abú
Bekr’s uncles, is about eight days’ journey east or south-east
of Kong. That place he believed to be mid-way between Jenneh and
Ashantí. But as the distance between Ghónah and Ashantí is twelve
days’ journey, that capital, the position of which is known, must
be about twenty days’ journey distant from Kong, and forty from
Jenneh. Abúr Bekr was two months on his way from Jenneh to Kong,
but he thought the journey might be completed in fifteen days; twenty
days, therefore, gives a fair mean, and confirms his supposition
that Kong is just midway between the Jálibá and Ashantí.
When only two years old, his father removed to Jenneh from Tumbuktú,
or, as Abú Bekr generally called it, Tumbuttú, or Tumbut;[201] of
that place, therefore, he had no recollection. When only four years
old he lost his father; and five years afterwards, when he was in the
tenth year, he went to Ghónah to visit his father’s burial-place,
stopping one year at Kong on the way. On the supposition, therefore,
that he remained three years at Ghónah, he was in his fourteenth year
when he fell into the hands of the Ashantís, and was sent as a slave
to the West Indies either in 1807 or 1808. Amvíkoh, the place where
he was seized by the people of Buntukkú, is fifteen or twenty miles
to the south of Ghónah, and nine days’ journey south of Kumásí,
the capital of Ashantí. Daghó, the place on the coast where he was
put on board ship, is mentioned by Protten, the Danish missionary,
as not far from Winnebá, one of the British forts. (Adelung,
Mithrid., iii. 188.) From Daghó, or rather Cape Coast, Abú Bekr
was carried to Jamaica, in which island he passed about twenty-seven
years of his life, first as the slave of a stone-mason named Donellan,
subsequently on the estate of Mr. Haynes, and finally as the property
of Mr. Anderson. Donellan was a very kind master, and when he told
his slaves, about a year after Abú Bekr was purchased by him, that,
as his mother wished to see him, he must return to England, after
selling his property in Jamaica, they all shed tears. Mr. Haynes,
it appears, was not himself resident on the island; and it was by
his order that Abú Bekr, and the rest of the slaves on his estate,
were baptised. In what manner they were prepared for baptism, it was
difficult to ascertain; certain it is, as we learn from Dr. Madden,
that the Mohammedans still retained their faith in the divine mission
of Mahomet. It was at his baptism that Abú Bekr was named Edward
Donellan. Mr. Haynes’s benevolent intentions cannot be doubted;
but, as is too often the case where the planters are not residing
on their property, his overseers and agents did not faithfully
execute his orders, for “it was then,” says Abú Bekr, in a paper
written on his voyage home, “that I tasted all the bitterness of
slavery.” On the 6th of September, 1823, Mr. Haynes’s property
was sold, and Abú Bekr was purchased by Mr. Anderson, who, having
discovered his steadiness and honesty, employed him to take an
account of all that came or was issued from his slave yard. He put
down everything in negro English and in the Arabic character, (for
he never had an opportunity of learning to read or write English,)
and read it off to the overseer in the evening. His cyphers they
perhaps could read themselves, and therefore prove his sums; but as
he is well acquainted with the first rules of arithmetic, and very
careful, they were probably satisfied with the sum total that he gave
in. After his liberation he continued in the same employment, but his
condition could hardly be said to be improved, as his employer merely
gave him his board, and appears to have withdrawn most of the former
indulgences, without substituting wages in their stead. Nor, but for
the kind and determined assistance of Capt. Oldrey, would he have
been suffered to come to this country, or indeed to leave Jamaica.
Of the kindness of his present master he speaks in terms of the
warmest gratitude; and Mr. Davidson, on his part, fully appreciates
his merits. Should that enterprising traveller be so fortunate as
to reach Tumbuktú in safety, he will find—independently of the
rank which, it seems, Abú Bekr’s relations there hold—that so
faithful, affectionate, and intelligent an interpreter is a treasure,
the value of which cannot be too highly estimated.
As the veracity of Abú Bekr’s narrative has received an unexpected
corroboration from the testimony of persons whom Mr. Davidson saw in
Morocco, it may appear superfluous to enlarge upon the circumstances
which justify our reliance on the truth of his statements; but a
brief mention of a few will perhaps be considered as an appropriate
conclusion to this paper.
We may say, then, that his general good character, his years as
indicated by his face, and the cessation of the slave-trade in
March, 1808, are all so many evidences in favour of his statements
respecting the age at which he was carried to the West Indies. His
knowledge of the Arabic language is another very cogent proof of the
truth of his statements. Though far from being able to write it with
strict grammatical accuracy, or possessing the command of an abundant
stock of words and phrases, his power of expressing himself in that
copious and difficult tongue, and the clearness and facility with
which he writes its characters, are truly surprising when his peculiar
circumstances are taken into account. He could scarcely have completed
his fifteenth year when taken away from Africa; was two years in the
West Indies before he could obtain the use of pen, ink, and paper;
and, with the exception of two or three negroes,—one fortunately
on board the slaver which carried him off,—had no means of reviving
his remembrance of what he had learned, till a very late period.
Some time before he left Jamaica, a benevolent stranger,
who found that he could read Arabic, sent him, from England,
a copy of the New Testament in that language; and he had also
read parts of the Old Testament with attention, as is evident
from some texts quoted in the narrative written on his voyage
from New York to England. On seeing the plates in Mr. Bowdich’s
Travels, he immediately recognised a street in Kumásí, and the
magical ceremonies of the Ashantí soothsayers; in Mr. Dupuis’s
book also the passage of the Basomprá. He mentioned many of the
names of king’s and chiefs, of whom those writers speak. At the
British Museum, instantly he recognized many old acquaintances;
particularly the hippopotamus, who, he said, always came out of the
water at certain hours, and did a great deal of mischief. With the
plants and seeds he seemed equally well acquainted; particularly
the nittah, a species of acacia, and the palms,—most of which he
could never have seen in the West Indies. His acquaintance with the
Korán was no less remarkable. “What became of that wicked king,
Fróna?” said he, to one of his friends from whom he had already
received some information.—“I never heard of Fróna,” said his
friend.—“Oh, yes,” replied Abú Bekr, “you know him,—he
is spoken of in the Bible; he was King of Misr,—he is mentioned
in many places in the Kóran.”—“Write down his name, then,”
returned his friend; and he wrote “Fir’aum,” _i.e._ Pharaoh,
very correctly spelt. It was too late to look for the Korán that
night; but the next morning, he in a few minutes found out almost
all the places where Pharaoh is mentioned—scattered, as need
hardly be said, all over the book. In the summer, he chaunted the
call to prayer—given by the Muedhdhins from the minarets of the
mosque—with the exact pronunciation, intonation, and rhythm, that
is used from Cairo to Constantinople, and from Belgrade to Dehlí.
The Kóran he must have known almost by heart, as he declared he had
never seen a copy of it from the time he left Ghónah till one was
put into his hand by the writer of this paper. He was not old enough,
he said, when captured, to enter on a course of logic and rhetoric,
or to study the commentaries on the Korán; but he knew the names
of the most celebrated commentators. This is a plain proof of the
superior civilization of the negroes in the interior over those near
the coast; and, however incredible at first sight, it is confirmed
by Burckhardt’s account of the Shaïkìyah Arabs in Meroë, and
the well-written Arabic despatches from Bello’s court, now in the
records of the Foreign Office.
* * * * *
In justice to Mr. E. Drummond Hay, the British Consul at Tangiers,
to whom Mr. Davidson once felt disposed to attribute the difficulties
thrown in his way and his protracted stay at Gibraltar, it has been
thought fit to put in the Appendix the letters following:—
“_Gibraltar, Sept. 16,_ 1835.
“MY DEAR SIR,—The advice I thought it my duty to give you was
undoubtedly dictated by political reasons, which, although they may
not in European States interfere with projects purely scientific,
such as that of your gallant enterprize, appear to be of a widely
different kind in Marocco.
“I gave the advice after mature consideration, and with an ardent
desire for the success of your undertaking, in which I take a
peculiar interest.
“I told you, I believe—but if not, I may now assure you—that
I should probably save myself considerable trouble by taking
immediately the step you wish, notwithstanding my advice and the
reasons for it which I laid open to you in unreserved confidence,
which I considered due to you as the bearer of a letter from his
Majesty in furtherance of your object. I felt also the full weight
of the responsibility I took upon myself in proposing some delay
previous to your setting out upon the journey, and I was well aware
how much I should expose myself to the obloquy of society in general,
and to the injurious criticism in particular of the literary world,
of which, although I can hardly presume to consider myself a member,
there is not an individual more zealous than I am, and ever have been,
in the cause of geographical enquiry. I felt that it is impossible,
and would remain for a long time impossible, to exculpate myself,
by publishing reasons that I am not at liberty to divulge, and which
cannot, without going into long and difficult details, be rendered
intelligible, except to the _very few_ intimately acquainted with
all the circumstances of my official position, the relations of
our government with that of Marocco, and the peculiar character of
the latter.
“But since you tell me that you are still decided in your own
views of the matter, not only after duly considering the advice I
gave, and the conversation you had with his Excellency the Governor,
but after what you heard from Mr. Judah Benoliel, the agent for the
Sultán of Marocco; and as you give me the distinct assurance that
you take all the responsibility of failure upon your own shoulders,
I shall not lose a day in complying with your request for me to
write to the Court of Marocco, for permission to present in person
to the Sultán the royal letter, of which you are the bearer, when
and where his Imperial Majesty shall think fit to appoint.
“I leave Gibraltar, if the wind is fair, the day after to-morrow,
and would go sooner if I could; and before I have been twenty-four
hours in Tangier, I hope to have a letter dispatched to the effect
you suggest.
“I beg to repeat, my dear sir, that you will be a welcome guest
in my house at any time; and whenever you do come, nothing shall
be wanting on my part to promote your brave purpose, as far as my
sense of what is politic may allow.
“I may get an answer within a fortnight from the date of my letter
to the court; three weeks may, however, elapse before I receive a
reply. On the very day it comes to hand I will, if you wish it,
dispatch a boat _express_, in case there are no other means of
communicating the answer, which will be sent to you in the original
Arabic.
“With renewed assurances of my admiration for your enterprize,
and of cordial wishes for its success,
“I remain, dear sir, your’s faithfully,
“E. D. HAY.”
“P.S.—Before I seal this letter I shall read it to his Excellency
Sir Alexander Woodford and Mr. Judah Benoliel.”
To the preceding Mr. Davidson gave the reply following:—
“_Gibraltar, Sept. 16,_ 1835.
“MY DEAR SIR,—Pray accept my best thanks for your letter, which
I have just had the honor of receiving, and allow me to assure you
that I shall ever most gratefully appreciate the kindness with which
it teems.
“I presume you are aware that a Mr. Hodgson, who leaves this
place to-morrow, is on his way to Morocco on a mission from the
United States. He has kindly offered, should I obtain the wished-for
permission, to wait a few days here ere he proceeds. I think it right,
and I hope you will not think it intrusive on my part to inform you,
that Mr. Hodgson was three years at Constantinople, has visited
Egypt, and published a biographical sketch of Mehemet Ali; he is
well versed in Arabic, and has a great knowledge of the Mussulman
character. Once again offering you my thanks for your kindness,
and assuring you of my respect, believe me,
“My dear sir, your truly obliged,
“JOHN DAVIDSON.”
* * * * *
As a specimen of the style in which a correspondence is kept up
by the Court of Morocco with strangers, the letters from and to
Mr. Hay relating to Mr. Davidson’s entrance into the Sultan’s
dominions, and his obtaining a personal interview with the Prince,
are herewith subjoined.
“To the Noble Prince, exalted by the Lord, Mulai Abd Errachnan
ben Hussein, whom God protect.
“An English gentleman having arrived at Gibraltar within a few
days past, as bearer of a letter, which he is charged to deliver to
his Imperial Majesty, from the King my most gracious sovereign, may
it please your Imperial Majesty to deign to cause me to be informed
when and where it may be convenient for your Imperial Majesty to
receive the bearer of the royal letter.
“Peace—this 20th day of September, in the year of Christ 1835
(26th Joomad the 1st, 1251).
“EDW. DRUMMOND HAY,
“H. B. M.’s Agent and Consul-General in Morocco.”
“In the name of the merciful God, and there is no power or strength
but in God the high and excellent.
“To the faithful employed Drummond Hay, Consul for the English
nation—this premised—
“Your letter has reached our presence, exalted of God, regarding
the gentleman who arrived at Gibraltar with a letter from the
Pre-eminent of your nation; in consequence whereof, if he please to
deliver the letter to our employed, the kaid ............[202] Essedy,
for the purpose of being forwarded to our presence, exalted of God,
he may do so; but if he wish to bear it himself, he is to proceed
to Swerrah by sea, and thence he may come to our high presence,
since the voyage by sea is more convenient than that by land, and
the journey from the said port to our presence is short.
“Peace—11th Joomad the 2d, 1251 (4th October, 1835).
THE END.
* * * * *
LONDON:
Printed by J. L. COX and SONS, 75, Great Queen Street,
Lincoln’s-Inn Fields.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 127: For the notes at the foot of the page, the Foreign
Secretary is answerable.]
[Footnote 128: Vol. vi. p. 102, and which is reprinted at page 208
of this volume.]
[Footnote 129: Tanjah.]
[Footnote 130: Adwár, plural of dár, a circular tent.]
[Footnote 131: Autád plural of Watad, a peg or stake. Autád is
corruptly pronounced Útséd or Útsét.]
[Footnote 132: Wádí Nun, or Núl, the valley or river of Noon
or Nool.]
[Footnote 133: Rabát, _i.e._ Resting-place, Caravan-seraï; but
here the name of a town.—F. S.]
[Footnote 134: Terjumán, or Tarjumán, interpreter, a word of the
same origin as the Chaldee, ‘Targum.’]
[Footnote 135: The Kubbah (sepulchral chapel) of a saint named
Múláï (Doctor) Ibn ’Abdes-salám.]
[Footnote 136: Mehedíyah (the city of Mehed).]
[Footnote 137: Salá.]
[Footnote 138: Wedáyá (valley-man.)]
[Footnote 139: Dár el beïdá, the white house.]
[Footnote 140: Múlaï Abd-er-rahmán, Duke or Prince Abd-er-rahmán.]
[Footnote 141: Azamúr.]
[Footnote 142: Umm-er-rabí, _i.e._ the mother of spring.]
[Footnote 143: Kantarah, _i.e._ bridge.]
[Footnote 144: Baïrám, or ’Id ed Dohá.]
[Footnote 145: Aswák, plural of Sók, or Súk, the Arab word for
market—bazár in Persian.]
[Footnote 146: Meshwár, Council.]
[Footnote 147: Sídí Ibn ’Abbás, ’Abd el kádir, Abú Sheĭb,
Mubàrek.]
[Footnote 148: Aulád Abú Sebá, the tribe of Father Lion.]
[Footnote 149: Tárúdánt, capital of Sús.]
[Footnote 150: May we be allowed to lament the impetuosity of
our lamented traveller’s zeal. At Téródánt he would, for a
considerable time, have had ample occupation for every leisure
moment. In a country known only by name, abounding with vegetables
and fossils never yet examined, and in the midst of the Berbers,
whose history and habits so few have been able to study, supported
also by the favour of the Court, how largely might Mr. Davidson have
increased our stores of knowledge, had he been willing to yield to
the Sultán’s precautions!]
[Footnote 151: This is doubtless a mistake, unless the Jews call the
place Umm-Síwah. The man did not understand the meaning of the name,
and therefore said this to screen his ignorance.]
[Footnote 152: This is Aghmát Waríkah of the Arabs, so named from
a Berber tribe, to distinguish it from Aghmát Aïlán.—F. S.]
[Footnote 153: Mr. Davidson’s Letter, Journ. of Geogr. Soc.,
vol. vi. p. 430.]
[Footnote 154: Sahrá is a large level area, a plain, but applied
peculiarly to the Great African Desert.]
[Footnote 155: Káfilah, the Arab word answering to the Persian
Kár-raván.]
[Footnote 156: Dar’ah, pronounced Dr’ah.]
[Footnote 157: Delím, or the diminutive, Duleïm.]
[Footnote 158: Abú-s-seba, _i.e._ Father Lion.]
[Footnote 159: Ibn or Bin Dáúd, David’s Son.]
[Footnote 160: A’ra-wán.]
[Footnote 161: Sók, or súk, _i.e._ market or fair.]
[Footnote 162: Ziweïtah or zumeïtah, a kind of paste made of millet
(dhurrah).]
[Footnote 163: Dar’ah.]
[Footnote 164: Háyik, _i.e._ white woollen wrapper.]
[Footnote 165: Abú-l’asel, _i.e._ Father Honey.]
[Footnote 166: El Wád Dar’ah, the Vale of Dar’ah.]
[Footnote 167: El Gharib, pronounced by the Berbers El ’Aríb.]
[Footnote 168: Yahyá ibn Dávid, John the son of David.]
[Footnote 169: Dhú-l-Ka’dah, the 11th Mohammedan month.]
[Footnote 170: Salám, salutation.]
[Footnote 171: Tebíb, physician.]
[Footnote 172: Aulád Hishém, children of Hishám, a large Arab
tribe.]
[Footnote 173: In-sha-llah, “if it please God!”]
[Footnote 174: To Sídí Haj Habíb; salám: To my Lord, the Pilgrim;
Habíb (or the beloved Pilgrim); salutation.]
[Footnote 175: Mohammed el ’Abd. Mahomet the Slave or Servant
[of God].]
[Footnote 176: Ah’med Moulúd.]
[Footnote 177: Sha’ban, the eighth month; A.H. 1252, 29 Sha’bán =
8 December, 1836.]
[Footnote 178: Wold or Aulád Hamdán, an Arab tribe.]
[Footnote 179: Aït-Ata.]
[Footnote 180: Bú Sebá-iyah (a place) belonging to the tribe of Abú
Seba. M. D’Avezac writes Búzebayat, following probably Ibnu-ddén:
an unsafe guide.]
[Footnote 181: El Mohammedí, the Mahometan.]
[Footnote 182: The situation of Tátá has been determined with
great probability by M. D’Avezac, in his Etudes de Géographie
sur l’Afrique Septentrionale. See also Bullétin de la Société
de Géographie, vii. 112.]
[Footnote 183: Afterwards Swekeya, which is probably more correct.]
[Footnote 184: Ramadán, the Mohammedan Lent, is the ninth month;
A.H. 1252, 8 Ramadán = A.D. 1836, 17th Dec.]
[Footnote 185: I’gidí. Mármol, iii. 19.]
[Footnote 186: Before Shehkeya.]
[Footnote 187: Walátah of the Arabs, Aï-weláten (Aít Walâtah?) of
Ibn Batútah.]
[Footnote 188: That is, “Descended from Mohammed.”]
[Footnote 189: “Kabílah,” which properly signifies “tribe,”
but appears to be used by Abú Bekr in the sense of “family.”]
[Footnote 190: The same as Emír.]
[Footnote 191: That is, Abú Bekr’s father, as appears from the
sequel.]
[Footnote 192: Al-súdán for Bilád-as-súdán—the countries of
the blacks.]
[Footnote 193: Literally “with the other tribes.” It probably
means “with the other families of the same tribe.”]
[Footnote 194: That is, kárúis, or blackmoor’s teeth, the Cypræa
Moneta of Linnæus.]
[Footnote 195: He means her name as a Mohammedan; by her countrymen
of Haúsá she was called Nághódí, a significant word in their
language.]
[Footnote 196: Ghilmán means “young men,” but it also means
“slaves;” however, Abú Bekr seems to have used it in the sense
here given.]
[Footnote 197: Sultánán may mean ‘a sultán;’ but the power
of living securely is probably what is here meant.]
[Footnote 198: The price of blood, or fine for having taken away a
man’s life.]
[Footnote 199: This is—the people of Buntukkú, Ashantí, and
Fantí. This is more distinctly expressed in another paper written
by him.]
[Footnote 200: That is—pray five times a day.]
[Footnote 201: Nearly resembling the Tombutto of Leo Africanus,
(p. 642,) and clearly an abbreviation of the Tungubutú of De Barros,
(Asia, i. 220.)]
[Footnote 202: The word in the original cannot be decyphered.]
Transcriber's Note:
pg 22 (footnote 28) Changed: Georg. Journ. to: Geogr.
pg 71 Changed: attained its full heighth to: height
pg 93 Changed: sphynge and kukusú to: kuskusú
pg 102 (footnote 102) Changed: C. C. R. to: G. C. R.
pg 104 (footnote 104) Changed: C. C. R. to: G. C. R.
pg 137 Changed: theatened to leave to: threatened
pg 148 Changed: satified with his to: satisfied
pg 159 Changed: of the Skeïkh to: Sheïkh
pg 165 Changed: the masters are Bebers to: Berbers
pg 176 Changed: view of explaning to: explaining
pg 177 Changed: life in Afric, to: Africa
pg 193 Changed: whom Mr. Daividson to: Davidson
pg 202 Changed: Tâfillêt is only to: Tâfilêlt
pg 203 (footnote 173) Changed: In-sha-Uah to: In-sha-llah
Minor changes in punctuation have been done silently.
Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.
Blank spaces originally in the text have been indicated as: [Blank]
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