The Project Gutenberg EBook of Essex Terraplane Six 1933 Owner's Manual of
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Title: Essex Terraplane Six 1933 Owner's Manual of Information
Author: Anonymous
Release Date: October 27, 2011 [EBook #37863]
Language: English
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ESSEX TERRAPLANE SIX 1933 MANUAL ***
Produced by Gerard Arthus, Diane Monico, and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
ESSEX
TERRAPLANE
SIX
1933
Owner's Manual
of Information
Printed in U. S. A.
Warranty
"We warrant each new passenger automobile manufactured by us to be free
from defects in material and workmanship under normal use and service,
our obligation under this warranty being limited to making good at our
factory any part or parts thereof, including all equipment or trade
accessories (except tires) supplied by the Car Manufacturer, which
shall, within ninety (90) days after making delivery of such vehicle to
the original purchaser or before such vehicle has been driven 4000
miles, whichever event shall first occur, be returned to us with
transportation charges prepaid, and which our examination shall
disclose to our satisfaction to have been thus defective, this warranty
being expressly in lieu of all other warranties expressed or implied
and of all other obligations or liabilities on our part, and we neither
assume nor authorize any other person to assume for us any other
liability in connection with the sale of our vehicles.
"This warranty shall not apply to any vehicle which shall have been
repaired or altered by other than an authorized Hudson and Essex
Distributor or Dealer in any way so as, in the judgment of the
Manufacturer, to affect its stability or reliability nor which has been
subject to misuse, negligence or accident."
HUDSON MOTOR CAR COMPANY
Detroit, Michigan, U. S. A.
INDEX
General
Page
BREAKING-IN INSTRUCTIONS, 3
CAPACITIES OF UNITS, 14
CARE OF FINISH, 15
LAMP BULB TYPES, 14
LICENSE DATA, 14
STARTING THE ENGINE, 4
WARRANTY, 1
Lubrication
CHASSIS, 7
CLUTCH, 5
DISTRIBUTOR, 8
DOOR DOVETAILS, 8
DOOR LOCKS AND HINGES, 8
ENGINE, 5
FAN, 8
GENERATOR, 7
LUBRICATION SERVICE, 15
REAR AXLE, 6
STEERING GEAR, 7
TRANSMISSION, 6
WHEEL BEARINGS, 6
Adjustment
ADJUST DISTRIBUTOR POINTS, 9
BATTERY, 14
BRAKES, 11
CARBURETOR (SEE ENGINE TUNING), 9
CLUTCH PEDAL, 11
ENGINE TUNING, 9
FAN AND GENERATOR BELT, 10
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT, 15
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS, 12
GENERATOR CHARGING RATE, 14
IGNITION TIMING, 9
RADIATOR (COOLING SYSTEM), 15
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS, 12
SHOCK ABSORBERS, 15
SPARK PLUGS, 14
SPRING CLIPS, 15
TAPPETS, 15
TIRES, 15
WHEELS (REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION), 12
WIRING DIAGRAM, 13
Operation
Breaking-in Instructions
Keep Radiator Full Keep Oil Reservoir Full
Heat is a major consideration in a new engine. Do not allow the engine
to overheat. Although the heat indicator on the instrument panel shows
the general temperature of the engine, it will not show a sudden rise
in temperature of an individual part.
The pressure imposed on parts such as bearings and pistons due to rapid
acceleration or hard pulling will cause them to overheat if the car has
not been driven sufficiently to break them in. Avoid fast acceleration
and hard pulling while breaking in.
High speed also develops higher operating temperatures and to avoid
damage the car speed should be kept within the following
recommendations:
0-250 MILES
Do not exceed 40 miles per hour in high gear or 20 miles per
hour in second. Do not accelerate rapidly. Use second gear
on steep grades. Keep motor temperature within "driving
range" on dash heat indicator.
250-500 MILES
Do not exceed 50 miles per hour in high gear or 25 miles per
hour in second.
500-1000 MILES
During this period the speed should not exceed 60 miles per
hour.
IMPORTANT
Do not UNDER ANY CONSIDERATION attempt to maintain a high rate of speed
unless the crankcase is full of good oil and until the engine is
thoroughly warmed up. Cold oil is not able to flow freely into the
small clearances between working parts so that damage may occur if
sufficient time is not allowed for warming up before attempting high
speeds.
[Illustration: OIL SIGNAL, CLUTCH CONTROL, GENERATOR SIGNAL,
STARTER, LIGHTS, IGNITION, CHOKE]
Starting the Engine
If the engine is cold, pull the choke knob out as far as possible, turn
the ignition switch key to the right, depress the accelerator pedal
slightly, and pull the starter knob out. When the engine "fires," push
the choke knob in until the engine runs evenly. Return the choke knob
gradually to the full in position as the engine warms up. The choke
knob should never be out any farther than necessary to maintain even
running of the engine.
If the engine is warm from previous running, use the choke sparingly.
In most instances the engine will start immediately without the use of
the choke if the accelerator pedal is held in a slightly depressed
position while the starter is used. Do not under any circumstances work
the accelerator pedal rapidly when starting as the accelerator pump may
flood the carburetor.
=Oil Signal=--The red signal on the left hand indicates oil pressure
and the functioning of the oiling system. It will glow when the
ignition switch is turned on but will go out when the car is under way.
Should it continue to burn or flash while the car is under way, it
indicates that the oil supply is low or that the oiling system is not
functioning properly. Do not run the engine until the oil supply has
been replenished or trouble corrected.
=Generator Signal=--The red signal on the right hand will light when
the ignition switch is turned on and will be lighted at all times
unless the engine is running at higher than idling speed. Should this
signal glow at normal running speeds, it indicates that the generator
is not charging and should be inspected immediately by an Essex
dealer.
Lubrication
Engine
Use High-Grade Oil--Medium Heavy Body (S.A.E. 30)
[Illustration]
If cold weather prevails, be sure the oil you use will flow at the
temperatures encountered. Oil supply should be maintained at the full
mark on the bayonet gauge at the oil filler.
The frequency with which oil should be drained and replenished with new
depends largely on the operation of the car. Consult your dealer for
recommendations on your car. In any event the oil should be changed at
least every 2500 miles.
Clutch
[Illustration]
Use only a mixture composed of 1/2 kerosene and 1/2 engine oil. Turn
starter shaft with wrench, moving wrench handle toward the engine until
plug "A" is accessible through opening in rear engine plate. Remove
plug "A," continue turning flywheel until opening is down and all
clutch oil is drained. Then turn until opening is again accessible.
Pour in by means of offset funnel no more than 1/3 pint of clutch
mixture. Replace plug "A" and tighten securely. The clutch oil should
be drained and replenished at least every 5000 miles.
The clutch throwout bearing should be lubricated with one ounce of
light viscous grease[A] every 500 miles. A pressure fitting is provided
on the right side of the clutch bell housing.
[Footnote A: _See page 7 for grease specifications._]
Transmission
[Illustration]
The transmission lubricant should be maintained to the level of the
filler plug "A." In warm climate or during summer months use
transmission gear oil S.A.E. 110. In winter or when near-zero
temperatures prevail use transmission gear oil S.A.E. 80. Remove drain
plug "B" every 5000 miles, flush out with 1 pint of kerosene and refill
with oil of proper type.
Rear Axle
[Illustration]
The oil supply should be kept level with the lower edge of the filler
plug opening "A." Use a good grade of heavy-bodied gear oil. S.A.E. 110
in warm climate (summer temperatures)--S.A.E. 90 when lower
temperatures prevail (winter). During the winter months be sure the oil
you are using will flow at the temperatures encountered.
Wheel Bearings
[Illustration]
The front wheel bearings should be lubricated every 5000 miles with a
good grade of cup grease. Remove hub and wash bearings and inside of
hub with kerosene. Pack each bearing and hub with 3 ounces of No. 2 cup
grease (see page 12 for adjusting wheel bearings).
The rear wheel bearings should be lubricated every 5000 miles with No.
3 cup grease. Remove four nuts from bearing cap "A" and remove caps and
shims. Pull bearing and after washing bearing and housing in kerosene
repack each bearing housing with 1-1/2 ounces of cup grease. Then
replace bearings, shims and caps, draw up wheel hub tight on shaft and
install cotter pin.
Steering Gear
Summer S.A.E. 160
Winter S.A.E. 110
[Illustration]
Remove plug "A" and pour a good heavy-bodied gear oil into the steering
gear housing every 2000 miles. Do not use cup grease or you will
experience hard steering in cold weather.
Chassis
[Illustration]
All spring shackle fittings (12) should be lubricated every 1000 miles
with a light viscous grease.[B]
All pressure fittings on the front axle (4) and the steering gear drag
link (2) should be lubricated every 1000 miles with pressure grease.
The front universal joint sleeve splines should be supplied with a
small amount of long fibre grease, through the plug provided, at
4000-mile intervals.
[Footnote B: _Grease Specifications--4% Calcium Soap compounded with an
oil of 400 seconds viscosity and a zero pour test._]
Generator
[Illustration]
Supply three or four drops (no more) of engine oil to each oil cup "A"
and "B" every 1000 miles. Do not attempt to supply more oil as it may
interfere with the functioning of the generator.
Distributor
[Illustration]
Fill distributor base with oil at cup "C" every 2000 miles. Coat rotor
cam "A" with a thin film of vaseline every 2000 miles. Apply one drop
(no more) of light oil to breaker arm pivot "B" every 2000 miles. Wipe
excess oil and clean distributor head, removing oil or dust before
returning to position. Be sure each high-tension terminal and wire on
distributor head is pushed as far into its socket as it will go.
Fan
[Illustration]
Fill fan shaft bearing with engine oil at oil cup "A" every 1000 miles.
It is very important that the fan shaft has plenty of lubrication at
all times.
Miscellaneous
=Throttle Control Rod=--Oil or grease all accelerator connections.
Throttle linkage should work with a snap. Grease choke wire
occasionally to eliminate sticking.
=Door Locks=--Apply a drop of engine oil occasionally to latch bar.
Work several times to spread oil, then wipe off excess.
=Door Latch Striker Plate=--Saturate wick with motor oil.
=Door Dovetails=--Saturate wick in male member with motor oil.
=Door Hinges=--Open doors and drop light oil in each hinge oil hole,
located under the top ledge of body portion of hinge. Wipe off excess.
=Hood Locks=--Lubricate occasionally with motor oil.
Adjustment
Engine Tuning
[Illustration]
Do not attempt to adjust the carburetor alone. Perform all of the
following operations in the order given:
1. Clean spark plugs and adjust gaps to .025" (.62 mm.).
2. Clean distributor breaker points and adjust to .020"
(.50 mm.) maximum opening as described under Ignition
Timing.
3. Check battery and ignition wiring, being sure _all
distributor wires are pressed down in their sockets_.
4. Set ignition timing as described under Ignition Timing.
5. Adjust intake valve tappet clearance to .006" (.15 mm.)
and exhaust tappet clearance to .008" (.20 mm.).
6. Turn carburetor idling screw "B" into its seat and back
out exactly one turn.
7. Start engine.
8. Set carburetor throttle stop screw "A" so that engine
idles at a speed equal to a car speed of 5 m.p.h. in high
gear.
9. Adjust carburetor idling screw "B" for smooth engine
idling. The final adjustment should be from 1/2 to 1 turn
of the screw from its full in position.
If the above operations, properly performed, do not give normal engine
performance, the car should be taken to an Essex dealer for mechanical
inspection.
Ignition Timing
[Illustration]
Remove distributor cap and inspect points. High points can be removed
by placing a breaker point file between points and letting them close
against file under their normal spring pressure. Move file straight up
and down, dressing both points at the same time. If the points are
pitted, they should be ground or replaced.
Crank engine, using wrench on starter shaft extension, until the
breaker arm fibre block is on the highest point of the cam, giving the
points their maximum opening. If necessary to adjust, loosen lock nut
"D" and turn screw "E" until the gap is .020" (.50 mm.). Tighten lock
nut.
Remove the spark plug from number one cylinder. Crank the engine slowly
by hand until air is forced out through the spark plug hole. Continue
turning the engine slowly until the D.C. 1 and 6 mark is exactly in
line with the pointer as shown at "A."
[Illustration]
Loosen distributor clamp screw "B" and turn distributor clockwise to
the full limit permitted by the slot in the clamping plate "C."
Turn the distributor counterclockwise until the points have just begun
to open. Tighten lock screw "B."
When the engine is in this position the rotor arm "F" will point
directly to the sector in the distributor cap to which number one spark
plug cable is connected. Following around the cap clockwise from this
point the spark plug wires should be in the following order:
1-5-3-6-2-4.
Fan and Generator Belt
[Illustration]
The fan and generator drive belt must be kept at sufficient tension to
prevent slippage on the pulleys. Do not adjust too tightly or rapid
wear on fan and generator bearings will result. To adjust belt tension,
loosen nut "A" and swing generator away from engine to tighten. Then
lock adjustment by thoroughly tightening nut "A."
Clutch Pedal
[Illustration]
The clutch rod length should be adjusted so that the clutch pedal can
be pushed down 1-1/2" before the clearance is taken up between the
levers on the clutch cross shaft and the clutch throwout yoke shaft and
further movement of the clutch pedal will begin to disengage the
clutch.
To adjust: Loosen lock nut "A," remove clevis pin "C" and turn yoke "B"
to obtain proper length. Insert clevis pin and tighten lock nut "A."
Brakes
[Illustration]
Unless you are an experienced mechanic, it is advisable to have your
brakes adjusted by your Essex dealer. The following operation will,
however, take care of normal brake shoe wear if done carefully:
Jack up car, remove all four wheels and remove the inspection covers
from the front of the brake drums. Disconnect the four brake cables
from the cross shaft; turn the brake drum until the inspection hole is
1-1/2" from the adjusting screw end of the lining of the upper shoe
(rear of front brakes--front of rear brakes).
Insert a .014" (.35 mm.) feeler through the inspection hole. Loosen
eccentric lock nut "A" and turn eccentric "B" in the direction the
wheel rotates when the car is moving forward until the feeler is held
snugly between the drum and the lining. Hold the eccentric in this
position and tighten lock nut "A." Make this adjustment on all four
brakes.
Turn brake drum until inspection hole is 1-1/2" from adjusting screw
end of the lining of the lower shoe (rear of front brakes--front of
rear brakes). Insert a .008" (.15 mm.) feeler through inspection hole.
Insert a screwdriver through opening "C" and turn star wheel until
feeler is held snugly. Move the handle of the screwdriver toward the
axle to tighten brakes. Make this adjustment on all four wheels.
Reconnect the brake cables at the cross shaft, adjusting the position
of the cable yoke so that the clevis pin can just be inserted in the
yoke and cross shaft lever hole when the cable is held just taut enough
to remove slack.
If trial on road shows too much braking on one wheel, loosen that brake
by turning star wheel with screwdriver one notch at a time until the
brake is equal with the others. Always loosen the tight brake--do not
tighten the loose brakes or the pedal travel will be restricted and may
cause brake drag.
Front Wheel Bearings
[Illustration]
After jacking up front axle and removing the hub cap, withdraw cotter
key holding nut "A." Turn nut "A" to the right until a slight drag is
felt when turning the wheel slightly by hand. Then loosen the nut just
sufficiently to permit the wheel to turn freely. Insert cotter key.
Rear Wheel Bearings
[Illustration]
To adjust rear wheel bearings, jack up rear axle and remove both rear
wheels. Remove the four nuts from bearing cap "A" and remove cap. By
removing shims "B" under the cap the end play of the axle shaft is
decreased. Total play between axle shafts should be from .005" to .010"
(.12 to .25 mm.) which is perceptible by pulling shaft in and out with
the hand. It is necessary that the thickness of shims at each rear
wheel be approximately the same, so when adjusting remove a thin shim
from each side and repeat, if necessary, until only a slight amount of
play is evident. Be sure the axle shafts turn freely before building
up.
Removing and Installing Wheels
To remove a wheel, place a screwdriver between the hub cap and hub and
pry off cap. Loosen the four cap screws "B" (illustration top of page)
with the socket wrench provided. Remove one cap screw in the lowest
position and insert the handle of the wrench through the screw hole
into the hub. While holding the wheel in position with the wrench,
remove the other cap screws and lift off the wheel. The wheels should
be jacked up just sufficiently to clear the ground. When replacing the
wheel, place the handle of the wrench through the lower cap screw hole,
lift up on the wrench so that the wheel will clear the ground and push
in place. Align by moving wrench back and forth. Then start two of the
cap screws, remove the wrench and start the remaining two. Tighten
every other cap screw until all are down enough to hold wheel in place,
making sure it is square on the hub. Continue tightening every other
screw until all are secure.
[Illustration:
OIL PRESSURE
TELL TALE COIL
DISTRIBUTOR
IGNITION LOCK
OIL CHECK VALVE
TO STARTER TO COIL
LIGHT DOME
GENERATOR SWITCH LIGHT
TELL TALE
HORN
HORN BUTTON TO
DIMMER
SWITCH
TO TAIL AND
FAN PULLEY INSTRUMENT
RELAY LAMPS TO DOME LIGHT
AND STOP LIGHT
TO PARKING SWITCH STOP LAMP
STARTER LIGHT SWITCH
GENERATOR BATTERY TAIL LAMP
DIMMER SWITCH
SPEEDOMETER
GASOLENE
TANK GAUGE
GAS & TEMP GAUGE
WIRING DIAGRAM]
General Information
License Data
CYLINDER BORE--2-15/16"--74.61 mm.
STROKE--4-3/4"--120.65 mm.
NUMBER OF CYLINDERS--6
N. A. C. C. HORSEPOWER RATING--20.7 H.P.
PISTON DISPLACEMENT--193 cubic inches--3.15 liters
CAR SERIAL NUMBER--Plate on dash under bonnet
106" Wheelbase--368,379 and up
113" Wheelbase-- 5,001 and up
ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER--Stamped on left side (center) of cylinder block
(25,131 and up)
Capacities
U. S. Imperial Metric
RADIATOR AND COOLING SYSTEM 3 gals. 2.5 gals. 11.35 liters
GASOLINE TANK, 106" Wheelbase 11.5 gals. 9.58 gals. 43.53 liters
GASOLINE TANK, 113" Wheelbase 16 gals. 13.3 gals. 60.57 liters
ENGINE CRANKCASE (REFILL) 6 qts. 5 qts. 5.68 liters
CLUTCH 1/3 pint 1/3 pint 180 c.c.
TRANSMISSION 3 pints 3 pints 1.4 liters
REAR AXLE 3 pints 3 pints 1.4 liters
Spark Plugs
Size 14 mm. Set points at exactly .025" (.62 mm.). Replace after each
10,000 miles (16,000 kilometers) of service.
Generator Charging Rate
Generator is regulated by position of third brush. This should only be
altered by competent service stations using accurate measuring
instruments.
Generator output { 17 amperes at 8 volts
{ 13 amperes at 6 volts
Output to be measured at generator. Do not exceed the above rates.
Battery
Use only distilled water to cover plates. This should be done as
frequently as found necessary. An average of every two weeks during the
summer months (less frequently in cooler weather).
Lamp Bulbs
Candle Power Base Voltage
HEADLAMP (DOUBLE FILAMENT) 21-21 Double Contact 6-8
PARKING (IN HEADLAMP OR ON
FRONT FENDERS) 3 Single Contact 6-8
TELLTALES (ON INSTRUMENT BOARD) 3 Double Contact 6-8
INSTRUMENT BOARD 3 Single Contact 6-8
STOP AND TAIL LAMP (DOUBLE
FILAMENT) 2-21 Double Contact 6-8
DOME 15 Single Contact 6-8
FUSE (AT LAMP 20 Amperes
Engine
_Firing order_ of cylinders--1-5-3-6-2-4.
Tappets
Adjust when engine is hot. Minimum clearances--inlet valves, .006" (.15
mm.); exhaust, .008" (.20 mm.). Counting from the front, intake tappets
are 2-4-5-8-9-11 and exhaust tappets 1-3-6-7-10-12.
Cooling System
It is good practice to drain, flush and refill the cooling system
occasionally. If freezing temperatures are encountered in your
community, anti-freeze solution will be necessary during the winter
months.
Chassis Lubrication
This book contains detailed information covering lubrication of all
units. Spring shackles and steering connections equipped with pressure
fittings should be lubricated every 1000 miles. Your Essex dealer will
arrange to completely lubricate your car at regular intervals at small
cost.
Spring Clips
The nuts on the clips holding springs to axles, front and rear, should
be tightened every 5000 miles.
Front Wheel Alignment
The front wheels should have a toe-in of from 0" to a maximum of 1/8"
(3.2 mm.) for 5.25 tires and 1/4" (6.4 mm.) for 6.00 tires. Have your
dealer check the alignment occasionally and adjust if necessary.
Shock Absorbers
Shock Absorbers--Monroe. Have dealer fill with Monroe Cushion Oil every
2000 to 5000 miles.
Tires
Minimum Pressure
Size Front Rear
17 x 5.25 28 lbs. 28 lbs.
16 x 6.00 21 lbs. 21 lbs.
Care of Finish
We recommend the use of Hudson-Essex Polish, which is procurable from
your dealer. An occasional polishing will preserve the finish. A wax
coating is recommended, providing the lacquer is thoroughly cleaned and
prepared for the wax surface.
Printed in U. S. A.
S.H.--2500--7-33
* * * * *
Transcriber's Notes
All instances of S. A. E. have been changed to S.A.E. for consistency.
Page 13: Retained spelling of gasolene in wiring diagram.
End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Essex Terraplane Six 1933 Owner's
Manual of Information, by Anonymous
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