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Title: The boy mechanic, book 3
800 things for boys to do
Editor: H. H. Windsor
Release date: October 12, 2023 [eBook #71856]
Language: English
Original publication: Chicago: Popular Mechanics Co, 1919
Credits: Charlene Taylor, Harry Lamé and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BOY MECHANIC, BOOK 3 ***
Transcriber’s Notes
Texts printed in italics in the source document have been transcribed
_between underscores_. Small capitals have been replaced with ALL
CAPITALS.
More notes may be found at the end of this text.
THE BOY MECHANIC
BOOK 3
[Illustration: See Page 86]
THE
BOY MECHANIC
BOOK 3
800 THINGS FOR BOYS TO DO
HOW TO CONSTRUCT
ELECTRIC LOCOMOTIVE MODEL AND TRACK SYSTEM, BOYS’ MOTOR
CAR, PARCEL DELIVERY BICYCLE, AERIAL CABLEWAY, MINIA-
TURE TANK, SAILING CANOE, HOUSEBOAT, SUBMARINE
CAMERA, DIVING TOWER, HAMMOCKS, KITCHEN
FOR HIKERS, ICE YACHT
AND
HUNDREDS OF OTHER THINGS WHICH DELIGHT EVERY BOY
WITH 802 ILLUSTRATIONS
COPYRIGHTED, 1919, BY H. H. WINDSOR
CHICAGO
POPULAR MECHANICS CO.
PUBLISHERS
[Illustration: Fig. 1
SECTIONAL SIDE VIEW
Fig. 2
FRONT VIEW
Fig. 3
PLAN
Fig. 4
BRAKE DETAIL
Fig. 5
DETAIL OF STEERING GEAR
DETAIL OF SUPPORT C
The General Arrangement of the Parts is Shown in the Assembly Views,
Figs. 1, 2, and 3. The Brake Detail, Fig. 4, should be Considered with
Fig. 9, Shown Separately. The Detail Construction of the Frame and
Body can be Readily Understood by Referring to the Assembly Views in
Connection with Fig. 7
DETAIL OF SUPPORT D
REAR-AXLE BRACKET E
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
DETAIL OF FRAME AND BODY]
[Illustration: A Boys’ Motor Car
HOMEMADE
by P. P. Avery]
Even though the home-built “bearcat” roadster, or other favorite model,
does not compare in every detail with the luxurious manufactured
cars, it has an individuality that puts it in a class by itself. The
amateur mechanic, or the ambitious boy, who is fairly skilled with
tools, can build at least the main parts for his own small car, of
the simple, practical design shown in the sketch and detailed in the
working drawings. If necessary, he can call more skilled mechanics
to his aid. A motorcycle engine, or other small gasoline motor, is
used for the power plant. The control mechanism of the engine and the
electrical connections are similar to those of a motorcycle. They are
installed to be controlled handily from the driver’s seat. The car is
built without springs, but these may be included, if desired, or the
necessary comfort provided--in part at least--by a cushioned seat.
Strong bicycle wheels are used, the 1¹⁄₂ by 28-in. size being suitable.
The hood may be of wood, or of sheet metal, built over a frame of strap
iron. The top of the hood can be lifted off, and the entire hood can
also be removed, when repairs are to be made. The tool box on the rear
of the frame can be replaced by a larger compartment, or rack, for
transporting loads, or an extra seat for a passenger.
[Illustration: To Simplify This Small but Serviceable Motor Car for
Construction by the Young Mechanic, Only the Essential Parts are
Considered. Other Useful and Ornamental Features may be Added as the
Skill and Means of the Builder Make Possible]
The construction may be begun with the chassis and the running gear.
Fit the wheels with ⁵⁄₈-in. axles, as shown in the assembly views,
Figs. 1, 2, and 3, and detailed in Fig. 4. Fit the ends of the axles
to the hubs of the wheels, providing the threaded ends with lock nuts.
Make the wooden supports for the frame, as detailed in Fig. 6. The
axles are fastened into half-round grooves, cut in the bottoms of the
supports, and secured by iron straps, as shown in Fig. 4, at A. Make
the sidepieces for the main frame 2¹⁄₂ by 3¹⁄₄ in. thick, and 9 ft.
4 in. long, as detailed in Fig. 7. Mortise the supports through the
sidepieces, and bore the holes for the bolt fastenings and braces. Glue
the mortise-and-tenon joints before the bolts are finally secured.
Provide the bolts with washers, and lock the nuts with additional jam
nuts where needed. Keep the woodwork clean, and apply a coat of linseed
oil, so that dirt and grease cannot penetrate readily.
Finish only the supporting structure of the chassis in the preliminary
woodwork. Set the front-axle and steering-rigging supports C and D, and
adjust the spacers F between them. Bore the hole for the kingbolt, as
detailed in Fig. 6, and fit the bevel gears and the fifth wheel G, of
¹⁄₄-in. steel, into place, as shown in Fig. 5. The gear H is bolted to
the axle support. The pinion J is set on the end of a short ³⁄₄-in.
shaft. The latter passes through the support D, and is fitted with
washers and jam nuts, solidly, yet with sufficient play. A bracket, K,
of ¹⁄₄ by 1³⁄₄-in. strap iron, braces the shaft, as shown in Fig. 3.
The end of this short shaft is joined to one section of the universal
coupling, as shown, and, like the other half of the coupling, is pinned
with a ³⁄₁₆-in. riveted pin. The pinion is also pinned, and the lower
end of the kingbolt provided with a washer and nut, guarded by a cotter
pin. Suitable gears can be procured from old machinery. A satisfactory
set was obtained from an old differential of a well-known small car.
[Illustration: FIG. 8
Detail of the Motor Support: The Engine is Mounted on Reinforced Angle
Irons, and Secured by Clamps and a Supporting Band under the Crank Case]
Before fitting the steering column into place, make the dashboard, of
⁷⁄₈-in. oak, as shown in the assembly view, and in detail in Fig. 7. It
is 19¹⁄₂ in. high and 2 ft. 4 in. wide, and set on the frame and braced
to it with 4 by 4 by 1¹⁄₂-in. angle irons, ¹⁄₄ in. thick. Fit a ⁷⁄₈-in.
strip of wood around the edge of the dashboard, on the front side, as
a rest for the hood, as shown in Figs. 1 and 7, at L. A brass edging
protects the dashboard, and gives a neat appearance. Lay out carefully
the angle for the steering column, which is of ⁷⁄₈-in. shafting, so as
to be convenient for the driver. Mark the point at which it is to pass
through the dashboard, and reinforce the hole with an oak block, or an
angle flange, of iron or brass, such as is used on railings, or boat
fittings. A collar at the flange counteracts the downward pressure on
the steering post. The 12-in. steering wheel is set on the column by a
riveted pin.
The fitting of the engine may next be undertaken. The exact position
and method of setting the engine on the frame will depend on the size
and type. It should be placed as near the center as possible, to give
proper balance. The drawings show a common air-cooled motor of the
one-cylinder type. It is supported, as shown in Figs. 1 and 3 and
detailed in Fig. 8. Two iron strips, B, riveted to 1¹⁄₂ by 1¹⁄₂-in.
angle irons, extend across the main frame, and support the engine by
means of bolts and steel clamps, designed to suit the engine. Cross
strips of iron steady the engine, and the clamps are bolted to the
crank case. The center clamp is a band that passes under the crank case.
The engine is set so that the crankshaft extends across the main
frame. Other methods may be devised for special motors, and the power
transmission changed correspondingly. One end of the crankshaft is
extended beyond the right side of the frame, as shown in Fig. 3. This
extension is connected to the shaft by means of an ordinary setscrew
collar coupling. A block M, Figs. 3 and 7, is bolted to the frame, and
a section of heavy brass pipe fitted as a bearing.
The ignition and oiling systems, carburetor, and other details of
the engine control and allied mechanism, are the same as those used
on the motorcycle engine originally, fitted up as required. The oil
tank is made of a strong can, mounted on the dashboard, as shown in
Figs. 1 and 2. It is connected with the crank case by copper tubing.
A cut-out switch for the ignition system is mounted on the dashboard.
The controls used for the engine of the motorcycle can be extended with
light iron rods, and the control handles mounted on the dashboard or in
other convenient position. The throttle can be mounted on the steering
column by fitting an iron pipe around the post and mounting this pipe
in the angle flange at the dashboard. A foot accelerator may also be
used, suitable mountings and pedal connections being installed at the
floor.
In setting the gasoline tank, make only as much of the body woodwork as
is necessary to support it, as shown in Figs. 1, 3, and 7. The tank may
be made of a can, properly fitted, and heavy enough, as determined by
comparison with gasoline tanks in commercial cars. The feed is through
a copper tube, as shown in Fig. 1. A small venthole, to guard against
a vacuum in the tank, should be made in the cap. The muffler from a
motorcycle is used, fitted with a longer pipe, and suspended from the
side of the frame.
The transmission of the power from the motor shaft to the right rear
wheel is accomplished by means of a leather motorcycle belt, made by
fitting leather washers close together over a bicycle chain, oiling the
washers with neat’s-foot oil. A grooved iron pulley is fitted on the
end of the motor shaft, and a grooved pulley rim on the rear wheel, as
shown in Figs. 1 and 3, and detailed in Fig. 4. The motor is started
by means of a crank, and the belt drawn up gradually, by the action
of a clutch lever and its idler, detailed in Fig. 9. The clutch lever
is forged, as shown, and fitted with a ratchet lever, N, and ratchet
quadrant, O. The idler holds the belt to the tension desired, giving
considerable flexibility of speed.
The brake is shown in Figs. 1 and 3, and detailed in Figs. 4 and 9. The
fittings on the rear wheel and axle are made of wood, and bolted, with
a tension spring, as shown. The brake drum is supported on iron bands,
riveted to the wheel, and to the pulley rim. The brake arm is connected
to the brake wheel by a flexible wire. When the pedal is forced down,
the wire is wound on the brake wheel, thus permitting of adjustment.
The pedal is of iron and fixed on its shaft with a setscrew. An iron
pipe is used as a casing for the central shaft, the shaft carrying
the clutch lever, and the pipe carrying the brake pedal and the brake
wheel. The quadrant O is mounted on a block, fastened to the main
frame. The central shaft is carried in wooden blocks, with iron caps.
A catch of strap iron can be fitted on the floor, to engage the pedal,
and lock the brake when desired.
[Illustration: DETAIL OF BRAKE AND CLUTCH LEVER
FIG. 9
The Brake is Controlled by a Pedal, and a Clutch Lever is Mounted
on the Central Shaft, and Set by Means of a Ratchet Device and
Grip-Release Rod]
The engine is cooled by the draft through the wire-mesh opening in
the front of the hood, and through the openings under the hood. If
desirable, a wooden split pulley, with grooved rim and rope belt, may
be fitted on the extension of the engine shaft, and connected with a
two-blade metal fan, as shown in Fig. 2.
The lighting arrangement may next be installed, gas or electric lamps,
run on batteries, being used. Mudguards are desirable if the car is to
be used on muddy roads. Strong bicycle mudguards can be installed, the
guard braces being bolted on the axles. A strong pipe, with a drawbolt
passing through its length, is mounted across the front of the frame.
The body is built of ⁷⁄₈-in. stock, preferably white wood, and is 2 ft.
4 in. wide. A priming coat should be applied to the woodwork, followed
by two coats of the body color, and one or two coats of varnish.
The metal parts, except at the working surfaces, may be painted, or
enameled.
Combined Label and Cover Pad for Preserve Glasses
[Illustration]
A neat and convenient method of making a label for jars of preserves,
or similar preparations, to serve as a tab for removing the cover of
paraffin on the glass, or dish, is shown in the sketch. The tabs are
cut from tag board, notched, as shown, and bent on the dotted line.
When melted paraffin is poured on top of the material in the jar, the
tab is imbedded in it. To remove the paraffin cover intact, a pointed
knife is run around the edge, or the glass warmed sufficiently to
loosen the cover, which is then easily removed.--Arthur M. Cranford,
St. Louis, Mo.
Motor-Driven Entertainer for the Baby
[Illustration]
A contrivance that keeps the baby entertained, by the hour, at
intervals, and is a big help to a busy mother, was made in a short
time. I mounted four wooden arms on a small motor, as shown. On the
ends of two of the arms, I fixed small pin wheels, one blue and the
other yellow. The other arms hold curious-shaped pieces of bright
cardboard, one red and the other green. The driving motor is run by
one two-volt cell. The revolving colored pin wheels amuse baby in his
high chair, and the device has well repaid the little trouble of making
it.--A. H. Lange, St. Paul, Minn.
Simple Concealed Locking Device for Cases of Drawers
A simple method of providing a homemade locking device for a tier of
drawers, the use of only one keyed lock being necessary, as is common
in manufactured cases, is shown in the sketch. This is applicable to
new or old cases, where a space of about 1¹⁄₂ in. is available between
the back of the drawers and the rear of the case.
[Illustration]
The device, as detailed, consists of a locking bar sliding in guides,
screwed or fastened to the back of the case. Attached to the bar are
latches one less in number than there are drawers, and spaced apart
the distance that each drawer top is above the one below. The upper
latch is the master feature. The top of this is beveled off, forcing it
downward when the top drawer is closed. The locking bar, with the other
latches, also moves down, and the latch fingers engage the backs of the
drawers. The connecting bar is operated by a light coil spring, set on
a shouldered rod at the bottom of the bar, as detailed.
The master latch may be attached at any place on the bar, and should be
placed at the bottom drawer, for cases too high to be reached handily.
To make the device for a small space, a ¹⁄₄-in. metal rod, with metal
fingers clamped on, can be used. Metal striking plates are then put on
the back edges of the drawers.--G. A. Luers, Washington, D. C.
* * * * *
¶Steam-pipe drains should be provided at all points in the line where
water is likely to accumulate.
Support for Wagon Pole Aids in Hooking Up Team
[Illustration]
To do away with the annoyance and strain of holding up the heavy pole
of a mowing machine while fastening the yoke strap to the hames of a
restless team of horses, I equipped the pole with a drop stick, or
rest. This was made of a 30-in. piece of an old carriage shaft. One end
of the rod was hinged to the underside of the pole as shown. When the
machine is in operation, the stick is tied up out of the way by means
of a rope. This appliance also lengthens the life of the pole, and can
be used on various kinds of vehicles.--T. H. Linthicum, Annapolis,
Maryland.
String-Cutting Ring Made of Horseshoe Nail
[Illustration]
Persons having to tie a large number of packages or parcels soon find
that their fingers become sore from breaking the heavy cord in the
usual manner by wrapping it around the finger to form a cutting loop.
A handy device, that can easily be made, is a string-cutting ring
fashioned from a horseshoe nail, as shown. The point of the nail is
curled into a hook, and the inner edge of the hook is sharpened. The
string is quickly looped around the hook and cut by a slight pull on
the free end. The ring is worn on the little finger.--C. C. Spreen,
Flint, Mich.
* * * * *
¶A block of soft rubber, 1¹⁄₂ by 3 by 5 in., is useful as a pad for
sandpaper in smoothing curved surfaces.
Teakettle Cover Held by Dent in Edge
[Illustration]
To prevent kettle covers from dropping off, and the fingers from being
burned by the escaping steam, make a small dent in the edge of the lid,
as shown. In setting the lid into place, arrange it so that the dent is
at the point opposite the spout. Thus, when the water is poured from
the kettle, the lid cannot easily tip forward.--W. J. Parks, LaSalle,
Ill.
Candlesticks Wired Neatly for Electric Lamps
[Illustration]
A number of wooden candlesticks were to be fitted with fixtures for
electric lights, and it was found that the types ordinarily available
could not be attached in the usual manner. A simple method was,
therefore, devised, as shown in the sketch, and proved practical. A
short length of brass tubing, A, was screwed into a hole drilled in
the bottom of the candle socket, both ends of the tube being threaded.
A hole was drilled through the side of the tube, and another through
the side of the candlestick cup, as indicated. The hole in the wood
was fitted with an insulation ring, B. The wiring, suitably taped, was
carried through the opening for it, into the tube, and fastened in
the usual manner to a standard keyless socket, which was then screwed
to the end of the tube, making a substantial support. The lights
were controlled conveniently at the usual wall switches.--Livingston
Haviland, Buffalo, N. Y.
Handy Parcel Carrier with Caster Supports
[Illustration: The Parcels are Handled Easily and with Little Danger of
Damage by the Use of This Homemade Carrier]
Instead of carrying out an armload, or a boxful, of miscellaneous
parcels to the delivery wagon or the customer’s vehicle, an
enterprising grocery clerk made a parcel carrier fitted with casters,
as shown in the sketch. An ordinary wooden box was used for the tray,
and handles were fitted at the ends. The legs were made of light
strips nailed as shown. The parcels are loaded into the tray and the
arrangement carried or rolled along on the casters, as is convenient.
Besides making the work of handling the articles easier, they are kept
clean, since it is not necessary to lay them on the walk or other
undesirable place.--Avis Gordon Vestal, Chicago, Ill.
Kinks in Cleaning a Typewriter
Irregularities in the feeding of the paper into a typewriter are
often due to slippery spots on the platen. To overcome this trouble,
clean the platen thoroughly with a mixture of two parts of denatured
alcohol to one part of ether. Rub the polished parts with No. 2 emery
cloth, then smooth the surface with No. 0 emery cloth. In cleaning
a typewriter with gasoline, the effect is to leave the parts dry. A
better method is to use a mixture of one part of typewriter oil to 50
parts gasoline. This will leave a fine coating of oil, which is too
fine to collect dust, on the working parts.--William Doenges, Fort Sam
Houston, Texas.
Red Lens Hinged to Flash Light for Dark-Room Use
[Illustration: A Ruby Cap Hinged over the Lens of an Ordinary Flash
Light Is a Convenience for the Dark Room]
Amateur photographers will find a red lens attachment for a hand flash
light a useful arrangement for the dark room, when going in or out, and
during the process of developing, especially in temporary quarters.
To fit the device in place, measure the distance around the outside
of the lens holder, and lay out this dimension on a strip of tin, or
other metal, 1 in. wide, as shown. Then add ¹⁄₈ in. at each end, and
an extra strip, which should be cut into ¹⁄₄-in. sections, along the
whole length. A spring tab, midway along the top edge of the metal, is
also made. Curl the piece to a cylindrical form and clinch the joint
as detailed, and bend the notched tabs into place. Slip a piece of
ruby glass into the cylinder and hold it against the notched tabs with
a spring ring. Then solder a small hinge to the edge of the cylinder
and to the lens holder on the flash light, so that the spring tab will
snap into place. When a white light is wanted, the red-glass fitting is
released, as shown.
An Octagonal Mission Center Table
BY HENRY SIMON
The home craftsman who is fairly skilled with woodworking hand tools
will be well repaid for a little extra care in making this mission
center table, of unusual design. Most of the woodwork involved in its
construction is quite simple, the element calling for careful work
being the laying out and shaping of the octagonal top and the shelf.
Because of the wide surfaces exposed it will also pay the maker to
plane, scrape, and sand down these surfaces carefully. By selecting the
best pieces of wood and setting their better sides out, the effect is
also enhanced. The table can be finished in a variety of ways to suit
the furniture of the room where it is used. Various kinds of hard wood
are suitable, quarter-sawed oak being preferable.
[Illustration: The Home Craftsman will Find the Making of This
Octagonal Mission Center Table a Novel Piece of Construction. It Offers
No Special Difficulties if Care is Taken in the Shaping of the Top and
Shelf]
Begin the construction by gluing up the pieces for the top and the
shelf. While they are drying, make the pieces for the legs, the lower
braces, and the strips for the edging of the top. The upper portion of
the legs is of double thickness, ⁷⁄₈-in. stock being used throughout.
Fit the lower supporting framework together as shown in the bottom view
of the shelf, two of the braces extending across the bottom and the
others butting against them.
When the top and shelf are dry, brace the top with cleats screwed on
underneath, as shown in the bottom view of the top. Lay out the shelf
accurately, and shape it to a perfect octagon, 25 in. across from
opposite parallel sides. Make a strip, 1⁵⁄₈ in. wide, and use it in
marking the layout for the top, from the shelf as a pattern, the edges
of the top being parallel with those of the shelf and 1⁵⁄₈ in. from
them.
Assemble the parts as shown, using glue and screws where practicable,
and properly set nails for places where the fastening will be exposed.
All the stock should be cleaned up thoroughly both before and after
assembling. Four pieces for the casters are fastened to the legs with
screws. The edging for the top may be mitered, with a rounded corner,
as shown in the detail, or butted square against the edge of the top,
as indicated in the photograph and the plan of the top, the latter
method being far easier.
* * * * *
¶The nuisance of tracking dust and ashes from the basement can be
overcome, to a considerable extent, by providing carpet mats on two
or three lower treads of the stairs leading from the basement to the
rooms above.
Folding Ironing Board Clamps on Edge of Table or Window
[Illustration: This Rigid Ironing Board Folds Compactly and can be Set
Up with Ease at the Window Sill]
An ironing board is usually most convenient for use when its left end
is set near a window, or other source of light. The arrangement shown
in the sketch was designed with this in mind, and other interesting
features were added. The top is of the usual type. Arranged underneath
it is a cross cleat near one end. Bolted through this are two clamps
which engage the edge of the window sill or table. They are clamped
by lowering the leg from its folded position, underneath the top, as
indicated. The bolts at the clamps are adjustable for gripping various
thicknesses of table tops, etc., between the clamps and the top. The
lower end of the leg can be fitted with a sliding adjustment, if the
board is used at different heights, the design being otherwise the
same.--T. J. Hubbard, Mendota, Ill.
Wire Trellis Fastened Neatly to Brick Walls
A desirable vine often has not the natural ability for clinging to
stone, and other walls, and a suitable aid must be provided to support
it. Fastening a wire trellis to such a wall is a good method. Screw
anchors are used, which fit into holes drilled for them and expand
under the pressure of the screw. Staples may also be used in walls
laid up in mortar. A ⁵⁄₁₆-in. screw anchor will hold an ordinary fence
staple, and requires a ⁷⁄₁₆-in. hole. After the staple has been placed
over the wire its ends are pinched together and driven into the anchor
socket. The staple is held firmly, and will support a considerable
load. First fasten the trellis of wire mesh to the wall, at the top,
very securely. A chalk line aids in setting the wire straight. If
carefully done, the trellis will be hardly noticeable, and the wall
will be unmarred.--C. L. Meller, Fargo, N. D.
A Homemade Fishing Float Adjustable to Depth
A novel device for fishing, especially with a short bait-casting rod,
is a float that can be adjusted to the depth of water in which it is
desired to fish. The float is hollow and slides on the line. To use it,
the casting lead and hooks are adjusted as usual, and a sliding knot
on the line is set for the depth desired, and the cast made. The float
will stop at the sliding knot, and remain on the surface. In reeling
the line, the knot passes freely through the guides, and the float
slides down on the line until it reaches the casting weight.
[Illustration: By Setting a Sliding Knot on the Line, as a Stop for the
Float, the Depth at Which the Sinker is Desired can be Easily Regulated]
Cork is a good material from which to make the float. Cut the cork in
sections, as shown, and fit it over a large quill, which provides a
smooth-running hole through the float. Fit a small glass bead in the
upper end of the float, as a stop for the knot. The knot is of the
figure-eight type, and tied as shown in the detail at the left. It
slides easily, but grips the line tightly enough to stop the float. An
ordinary float can be altered for use as described.--Charles Carroll,
Baltimore, Maryland.
Adjustable and Pivoted Bed Table Attached to Bedpost
[Illustration: This Handy Table Clamps on the Bedpost and can be Swung
Aside Conveniently, or Removed Altogether]
A table arrangement which can be clamped handily to the bedpost and
swung out of the way or removed altogether when not in use, is a
convenience that has a wide use in the home. A device of this kind,
which requires no floor support and can be folded compactly for
storage, is shown in the illustration. The table proper consists of a
⁷⁄₈-in. board, of suitable size, the edges of which are banded with
metal or thin wooden strips. The board is supported on a frame of
iron rod, bent to the form indicated in the dotted lines, and clamped
with ¹⁄₁₆-in. brass clamps. The end of this frame rod is bent at an
angle and pivoted in a metal bracket. A cotter pin guards against
accidental loosening of the joint. The clamping device is made of ¹⁄₄
by 1¹⁄₄-in. band iron, and is bent to fit loosely around the bedpost.
A brass plate, A, is fitted inside of the main piece B, as shown. A
thumbscrew is threaded into the piece B, its point engaging the brass
plate, which acts as a guard. In fastening the piece B on the bedpost,
the thumbscrew is set, and the wing nut also tightened.--A. Lavery,
Garfield, N. J.
A Toy Tractor Built with Dry Cell and Motor
[Illustration: A Boy can Make This Simple Electric Tractor in a Short
Time, and will Get Much Fun Out of It]
An ordinary two-volt dry cell, a small motor, and the necessary wooden
parts, as shown in the illustration, are all that is needed for the
making of a toy tractor that will give its builder a great deal of fun.
A good feature is that the parts can be taken down quickly and used for
other purposes when desired. A base, ¹⁄₂ by 3 by 9 in. long, is made of
wood, and two axles of the same thickness are set under it, as shown.
The wheels are disks cut from spools, or cut out of thin wood for the
rear wheels, and heavier wood for the front ones. They are fastened
with screws and washers, or with nails. The dry cell is mounted on
small strips and held by wires. The motor is fastened with screws and
wired to the dry cell in the usual manner. One of the front wheels
serves as the driver, and is grooved to receive the cord belt.--J. E.
Dalton, Cleveland, O.
A Compact Toilet Outfit for the Soldier
[Illustration]
A compact outfit, which the soldier or camper will appreciate, consists
of a comb, brush, and mirror, clamped together, as shown in the
sketch. Two long staples are set into the back of the brush handle,
as indicated. From a board, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, the backing for the metal
“trench mirror” is made, with the handle portion small enough to fit
into the staples. A small brass strip acts as a spring when placed near
the end of the mirror handle, and holds the outfit snugly.
Preserving Leaves in Specimen Book
The common method of preserving leaves by pressing them with an iron
rubbed on beeswax may be improved by substituting the following
process. Paint the under side of each leaf with linseed oil, ironing
it immediately, and then paint and iron the upper side in the same
way. This treatment gives the leaves sufficient gloss, while they
remain quite pliable. It is not necessary to press and dry the leaves
beforehand, but this may be done if desired. The tints may even be
well preserved by painting only the upper side of the leaves with the
oil and then placing them, without ironing, between newspapers, under
weights, to dry.--Caroline Bollerer, New Britain, Conn.
Removable Drawer Stop
[Illustration]
When I least expected it, the small-tool drawers of my tool chest have
often dropped out, after I had left them partly open. The result was
a waste of time in picking up the tools, not to mention the possible
injury to them. I made small clips, like that shown in the sketch, and
fitted them to the back of the drawers, as at A. When it is desired
to remove the clips, the portion that extends above the drawer may be
bent forward. This is necessary only where the space above the drawer
is small. The clips may be made large enough to fit drawers of various
sizes.--J. Harger, Honolulu, H. I.
Pole Supports Rug Handily for Cleaning
A rug may be handled easily for cleaning if the pole on which it
is rolled when purchased is used as a support, as shown in the
illustration. Two stout wires are fastened into the ends of the pole
and hooked over the tightly stretched clothesline. The rug is suspended
on the roller and is thus kept straight while it is cleaned, the
tendency being, when only a clothesline is used, to crumple at the
middle.--John V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.
[Illustration: The Roller on Which the Rug is Rolled When Purchased is
Used to Advantage as a Support While Cleaning It]
Disk Talking Machine as China-Banding Wheel
A serviceable wheel for banding hand-painted china may be had by
adapting a disk talking machine for the purpose. Three old records
are placed on the wheel, so as to bring the surface of the upper one
slightly higher than the center pin. The piece of china to be banded is
set on the exact center of the disk, with the rings on the record as
a guide, and the brush may be rested on the arm of the machine. Care
must, of course, be taken not to injure the talking machine.--Mrs. W.
Read Elmer, Bridgeton, N. J.
Emergency Collar Button
[Illustration]
Requiring a collar button, and, as usual, having no extra one on hand,
I devised the holder shown in the illustration. It proved to be better
than a collar button for use at the back of the neckband. It was bent
into shape from a hairpin and has the advantage of keeping the collar
fixed with little chance of becoming unfastened.--William S. Thompson,
Hopkinsville, Ky.
[Illustration: Making a Coasting Toboggan
BY A. M. PARKER]
Essentials of a good toboggan, whether for coasting or use in
transportation, are strength and lightness, and when it is to be made
in the home shop, the construction must be simple. That shown in the
illustration, and detailed in the working sketches, was designed to
meet these requirements. The materials for the toboggan proper and the
forms over which it is bent, may be obtained at small expense.
Smoothness of finished surface, freedom from tendency to splinter, and
ability to stand up under abuse being requisite qualities in the wood
used to make a toboggan, three varieties may be mentioned in their
order of merit: hickory, birch, and oak. Birch is softer than hickory
and easily splintered, but acquires an excellent polish on the bottom.
Oak stands bending well, but does not become as smooth on the running
surface as close-grained woods. Do not use quarter-sawed oak because of
the cross-grain flakes in its structure.
While the best toboggan is made of a single board, both the securing
of material and its construction are rather difficult. Narrow strips
are easily bent to shape, but do not make a durable article. A toboggan
made of four boards is practical. The mill bill for one 7¹⁄₂ ft. long
by 16 in. wide and for the bending frame, is as follows:
4 pieces, ⁵⁄₁₆ by 4 in. by 10 ft., hard wood.
7 „ 1 by 1 in. by 16 in., „ „
2 „ ¹⁄₂ by 1 in. by 16 in., „ „
2 „ 1 by 6 in. by 6 ft., common boards.
6 „ 1 by 2 in. by 18 in., „ „
1 cylindrical block, 12 in. diameter by 18 in. long.
[Illustration: This Toboggan Is Strong and Light; It will afford the
Maker Much Pleasure Both in the Interesting Process of Construction
and in the Use for Coasting or Transportation. It may be Made as an
Individual Project or as a Joint Undertaking by Several Boys]
The form for the bending of the pieces is made of the common boards and
the block. A block sawed from the end of a dry log is excellent. Heat
it, if convenient, just before bending the strips. The boards for the
bottom should be selected for straightness of grain and freedom from
knots and burls. Carefully plane the side intended for the wearing
surface, and bevel the edges so that, when placed together, they form
a wide “V” joint, half the depth of the boards. The 1 by 1-in. pieces
are for cross cleats and should be notched on one side, 1 in. from each
end, to receive the side ropes. The two ¹⁄₂ by 1-in. pieces are to be
placed one at each side of the extreme end of the bent portion, to
reinforce it.
[Illustration: The Boards for the Bottom are Steamed or Boiled at the
Bow Ends and Bent over the Form. As the Bending Operation Progresses,
the Boards are Nailed to the Form with Cleats, and Permitted to Dry in
This Position]
Bore a gimlet hole through the centers of the 1 by 2 by 18-in pieces,
and 4¹⁄₄ in. each side of this hole, bore two others. Nail the end
of one of the 6-ft. boards to each end of the block, so that their
extended ends are parallel. With 3-in. nails, fasten one of the bored
pieces to the block between the boards, inserting, temporarily, a
¹⁄₂-in. piece to hold it out that distance from the block.
Steam about 3 ft. of the ends of the boards, or boil them in a tank.
Clamp, or nail, the boards together, at the dry ends, edge to edge,
between two of the 1 by 2-in. pieces, leaving about ¹⁄₄-in. opening
between boards. Thrust the steamed ends under the cleat nailed on the
block, the nails which hold it slipping up between the boards. Bear
down on the toboggan carefully, nailing on another of the bored cleats,
when the toboggan boards have been curved around the block as far as
the floor will permit. The nails, of course, go between the boards.
Now, turn the construction over and bend up the toboggan, following
the boards around the block with more of the nailed cleats, until the
clamped end is down between the two 6-ft. boards, where it can be
held by a piece nailed across. More of the cleats may be nailed on if
desired; in fact, the closer together the cleats are the less danger
there is of splintering the boards, and the more perfect the conformity
of the boards to the mold.
Allow at least four days for drying before removing the boards from the
form. Clamp the ¹⁄₂ by 1-in. pieces one each side of the extreme ends
of the bent bows, drill holes through, and rivet them. A 1 by 1-in.
crossbar is riveted to the inside of the bow at the extreme front and
another directly under the extremity of the curved end. These cleats
are wired together to hold the bend of the bow. The tail end crossbar
should be placed not nearer than 2¹⁄₂ in. from the end of the boards,
while the remainder of the crossbars are evenly spaced between the
front and back pieces, taking care that the notched side is always
placed down. Trim off uneven ends, scrape and sandpaper the bottom
well, and finish the toboggan with oil. Run a ³⁄₈-in. rope through
the notches under the ends of the cross pieces, and the toboggan is
completed.
Screws are satisfactory substitutes for rivets in fastening together
the parts, and wire nails, of a length to allow for about ¹⁄₄-in.
clinch, give a fair job. Indians overcome the lack of hardware by the
use of rawhide, laced through diagonally staggered holes bored through
the crosspieces and bottom boards. Rawhide, which they sometimes
stretch over the bow as a protection, affords an opportunity for
elaborate ornamentation.
Wooden Lock with Combination Key
[Illustration: This Lock is Made Entirely of Wood and cannot be Picked
Easily]
The lock shown in the sketch and detailed drawings is made entirely of
wood, and it is nearly impossible to pick or open it without the use of
the key. The casing of the lock is 5 by 5 in. and 1 in. thick, of hard
wood, oak being suitable for this as well as for the other parts. Three
tumblers, a bolt, and a keeper are required. The key is shown inserted,
indicating how the tumblers are raised by it. The bolt is slotted and
a screw placed through it to prevent it from being moved too far. The
lock and keeper are bolted into place on a door with carriage bolts,
the heads being placed on the outer side.
[Illustration: The Details of Construction must be Observed Carefully
and the Parts Made Accurately to Insure Satisfactory Operation]
The detailed drawing shows the parts, together with the dimensions of
each, which must be followed closely.
The lock casing is grooved with two grooves, extending the length of
the grain and connected by open mortises, all ¹⁄₂ in. in depth. The
spacing of the mortises and the grooves is shown in the views of the
casing. Three tumblers, ¹⁄₂ in. square and 2¹⁄₂ in. long, are required.
The bolt is ¹⁄₂ by 1 by 8 in., and the key ¹⁄₄ by ³⁄₄ by 5¹⁄₂ in., and
notched as shown. All the parts of the lock must be fitted carefully,
sandpapered smooth, and oiled to give a finish that will aid in the
operation, as well as protect the wood. Aside from its practical use,
this lock is interesting as a piece of mechanical construction.--B.
Francis Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.
Variety of Uses for an Electric Iron
[Illustration]
A milliner, in addition to using her electric iron for ordinary
purposes of ironing and pressing, inverts it between two hollow tiles
and thus makes use of it in steaming velvet trimmmings. The tiles not
only hold the iron securely in this position, but also insulate it
from overheating or scorching adjoining objects or surfaces. The iron
is also used inverted for heating water, cooking coffee, and other
liquids, as well as in providing a warm lunch.
Renewing Dry Batteries with Sal Ammoniac
[Illustration]
Finding that dry batteries had increased in price, and requiring a
number for experimental purposes, I devised the following method by
which I was able to use the old batteries for a considerable period:
When the dry cells were nearly exhausted, I punched holes through the
zinc covering with a nail, as shown in the sketch. The holes were
placed about 1¹⁄₂ in. apart, and care was taken not to punch them near
the upper edge of the container, or the black insulation might thus
be injured. The cells were then placed in a saturated solution of sal
ammoniac. The vessel containing the liquid must be filled only to
within ¹⁄₂ in. from the top of the cell, otherwise the binding posts
will be corroded, and the cell probably short-circuited. The cells were
left in the solution six hours, and then became remarkably live. They
must not be connected or permitted to come into contact with each other
while in the solution.--H. Sterling Parker, Brooklyn, N. Y.
A Sliding Board for Coasting
[Illustration]
The simple device shown in the sketch can afford youngsters much
amusement in coasting down inclines or small hills, either on the snow
or on surfaces slightly crusted with ice. The board is intended for
individual use only and should be about 10 in. wide and 26 in. long. It
is reinforced underneath by a strip of wood, about ¹⁄₄ in. thick and
smoothed on its lower side. This piece is fastened in the form of a
bow by placing a small cleat between it and the upper piece. The strip
should be about 3 in. wide, and aids in keeping the sliding board in
its course.--John F. Long, Springfield, Mo.
Electrical Device Transmits Striking of Clock
Converting an ordinary parlor, or mantel, clock into a master clock,
from which the striking of the gong is transmitted to various parts of
the home, may be accomplished by fitting it with a simple electrical
device, as shown in the sketch. The general arrangement of the
batteries, single-stroke bells, and the contact device within the
clock case is shown in Fig. 1; a detail of the silk cord and other
connections of the contact key and the gong hammer, is shown in Fig. 2.
This arrangement has been in operation for several years, and has been
found practical.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
The General Arrangement of the Apparatus for Transmitting the Striking
of a Clock Gong is Shown in Fig. 1, and a Detail of the Contact Device
in Fig. 2]
The various rooms to which the striking of the gong is to be
transmitted are wired with No. 18 annunciator wire, run carefully
behind picture moldings and in corners. Where the wires must be carried
through a partition, a ¹⁄₄-in. hole is sufficiently large for the
purpose. The single-stroke bells are wired up as shown in the sketch.
The number of dry batteries necessary varies with the number of bells
in the circuit, and also depends on the length of wire through which
the current is carried. A trial should be made with several batteries
and more added until the bells are rung properly.
The connecting device may be fitted into the clock case without
defacing it by boring holes in its side, and the binding posts are
fixed into place neatly. The two sections of the contact key, shown
in detail in Fig. 2, are fastened to the back of the clock case with
bolts. The upper member is fitted with an adjustable thumbscrew and is
stationary on the bolt fastening. The lower arm is made of covered wire
and is pivoted on the supporting bolt. Attached to its lower edge, at
the pivot, is a small lever arm. This is connected to the hammer rod of
the gong with a silk cord. The length of the cord must be determined
by careful adjustment so that it will not hinder the action of the
hammer H, but will bring the swinging arm into proper contact with
the thumbscrew. The contact should be made at the instant the hammer
strikes the bell. The contact of the platinum point of the thumbscrew
and the swinging arm must be close, but not too strong. Metal posts or
tubes fitted over the bolts, at the points where the arms are attached
to the back of the clock case, may be used to bring the arms the proper
distance forward in the case, so that they will be in alinement with
the hammer rod. The silk cord must not interfere with the action of
the pendulum P. To hold the silk cord in place on the hammer rod, drop
a small piece of melted sealing wax or solder on the rod.--W. E. Day,
Pittsfield, Mass.
Antique Signboard Made of Headboard of Bed
Some old headboards of beds are of such a pattern that they lend
themselves readily for use as signboards, with only slight alteration.
Such an adaptation is shown in the sketch, and was fitted to a bracket
of ornamental iron, the whole producing a striking effect. The sign was
made of black walnut and was, by reason of its age, well seasoned. It
was treated with several coats of linseed oil to withstand the action
of the weather better.
[Illustration: A Signboard Which Attracts Attention was Made of the
Headboard of a Walnut Bed]
Auto Horn for Child’s Play Vehicle
A baking-powder, or other tinned, can may be used to make the small
automobile horn shown in the illustration, for use on a child’s coaster
wagon. The device consists of a toothed wheel operating against several
metal pawls within the can, and the warning sound is produced by
turning a small crank at the end of the can. The can is fixed to the
side of the vehicle by means of a wire or strap-iron bracket, as shown
in the sketch at E.
[Illustration: This Small Auto Horn was Made of a Tinned Can Fitted
with a Notched Wheel and Pawls]
A piece of wood is fitted into the can, to support the ratchet wheel.
It is bored to carry a shaft, which bears in the end of the can, and at
the exposed end of which is fixed a crank. A disk of wood, about ¹⁄₂
in. thick, is cut to have a notched edge, as shown at A. The notched
wheel is placed upon the shaft, and fastened securely to it, so that
the ratchet wheel revolves with the shaft when the crank on the latter
is turned. Four small pawls of sheet metal, are fixed on the inner
support, as shown at B. They are made by cutting pieces of metal to the
shape shown at C, and folding them, as shown at D. They are fastened
to the support with small screws or nails. The cover is placed on the
end of the can when the device is used. The action of the ratchet wheel
against the pawls is to produce a loud grating sound, resembling that
of a horn of the siren type.--William Freebury, Buffalo, N. Y.
Wall Pocket for Paste Tubes
A small paste tube of the collapsible variety is hard to keep at hand
on the desk and occasionally, if left uncovered, the contents may be
forced out on papers or on the table. A simple container may be made
for the tube by cutting the carton in which the tube is packed with
a penknife, so as to expose the upper end of the tube. The cover and
upper end of the back of the carton is doubled over to provide an extra
thickness for a support, by which the contrivance may be suspended on
the wall.--T. H. Linthicum, Annapolis, Md.
Cutting Thin Wooden Disks
[Illustration: Draw the Strip with Its Saw-Tooth Brads around the
Center, Cutting Out the Disk]
Instead of cutting thin wooden disks with a coping saw, making
it necessary to smooth off the circumference of the disk, more
satisfactory results may be had by the following method: Determine the
center from which the circumference of the disk is to be struck. Drive
a nail through a strip of wood about 1 in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick,
and into the center of the proposed disk. At a point on the strip, so
as to strike the circumference of the disk, drive two sharp brads, as
shown in the sectional view of the sketch, arranging them to act as
saw teeth, by driving them at an angle, with a slight space between
the points. By grasping the end of the strip and drawing it carefully
around the center a number of times, the disk may be cut cleanly. By
cutting from one side nearly through the board, and then finishing
the cut from the other, an especially good job results.--S. E. Woods,
Seattle, Wash.
[Illustration: A WISHBONE-MAST ICE YACHT
by John F. Pjerrou]
Large spread of canvas and great speed when running with the wind, or
“free”; stability under heavy wind, and adaptability to sailing under
conditions similar to those of the common, single-boom-and-sheet ice
boat, are the features of the ice yacht shown in the illustration.
The runner and frame structure is in general typical of ice-boat
construction. The double, or wishbone, mast is distinctive, as is the
double-boom and sail arrangement, shown in Figs. 1 and 6. The booms
are pivoted at the bow of the craft, and controlled at the stern by
the usual line and pulley rigging. The booms may be spread so that a
V-shaped cavity is afforded for taking the wind when running free, or
they may be brought together and both sails manipulated as a single
sheet. Reefing and lowering of the sails are accomplished in the usual
manner. The framework is very substantial and the proportions are of
moderate range, so that the craft may be constructed economically
for one or two passengers. The double-boom feature may be omitted if
the craft is to be used where little or no opportunity is afforded
for running before the wind, by reason of the particular ice areas
available. For the experimenter with sailing craft, the wishbone-mast
ice yacht affords opportunity for adaptation of the various elements
of the craft described, and is a novelty. The dimensions given are
for a small yacht, and care must be taken, in adapting the design, to
maintain proper proportions for stability and safety. A side view with
working dimensions is shown in Fig. 1; inset into it is Fig. 6, showing
a front view of the mast and sail arrangement. Figure 2 shows a view
of the framework from below. A detail of the fastening of the backbone
and runner plank is shown in Fig. 3; a detail of the fastening of the
masts and the forward runners into the runner plank, in Fig. 4, and the
fixture by which the booms and the yard are attached to the forward end
of the backbone, in Fig. 5.
The construction should begin with the making of the lower framework,
as shown in Fig. 2 viewed from the lower side. The main frame consists
of a backbone, of spruce or white pine, 4 in. thick, 8 in. high at the
center, and 16 ft. long, clamped accurately at right angles to a runner
plank, of the same material, 2 in. thick, 10 in. wide, and 12 ft. 6
in. long. The backbone is tapered from the middle portion, 5 ft. 6 in.
from the forward end, and with a ridge, 8 in. high and 2 ft. 6 in.
long, measured from the end of the taper at this end, as shown in Fig.
1. It is tapered to 4 in. at each end, and the bow end is fitted with
a three-eye metal ring, as shown in detail in Fig. 5. The runner plank
and the backbone are clamped together firmly at their crossing, the
backbone being set upon the plank, by means of two strap bolts, with
washers and nuts, as shown in detail in Fig. 3. Only the best material
should be used in the backbone and runner plank, and the stock should
be straight-grained, to give the greatest strength.
The runner plank is tapered down to 8 in. at its ends, to which
the guides for the forward runners are fixed. The guides are of
straight-grained oak, 1¹⁄₂ by 3 by 14 in., bolted to the runner plank
with ⁵⁄₁₆-in. carriage bolts, as shown in the detail sketch, Fig. 4,
and in Fig. 2. The guides and the ends of the plank are reinforced with
oak chocks, bolted in place at each of the tapered edges of the plank.
The forward runners are of oak, 1¹⁄₂ by 5 by 36 in., shaped at their
ends as shown, and shod with half-round strap iron. The heads of the
screws used for this purpose are countersunk carefully. The runners are
pivoted on ⁵⁄₈-in. bolts, the nuts being set to the inner side. Washers
and jam nuts should be provided, or the ends of the bolts riveted
slightly, to prevent the nuts from becoming loosened.
The stern runner is of oak, 1¹⁄₂ by 5 by 30 in., shod like the forward
runners, and is pivoted in a forged wrought-iron hanger. The lower
portion of the hanger may be made of a strip of heavy iron, bent into
a U-shape, and drilled to receive a ³⁄₈-in. bolt, on which the runner
pivots. The U-shaped piece is riveted firmly to a vertical shaft,
provided with a heavy rubber washer, protected from wear by a metal
one, as indicated at the right in Fig. 1. The upper end of the shaft is
threaded to receive a washer and nut. A section of pipe is fitted over
the shaft, and the steering handle, fitted to a square section of the
shaft, is clamped securely.
The cockpit is fixed to the lower side of the backbone, and is 5
ft. long and 3 ft. wide, with coaming, 4 in. high. It is shown with
square corners, since this construction is convenient, though not as
good as the type having the ends of the cockpit rounded, and fitted
with coaming steamed and bent to the curve. The floor of the cockpit
is fastened to the backbone with lag screws, and the coaming is also
fastened securely; this construction, if carefully made, will afford
ample strength. If desired, especially in larger craft, ribs may be
fixed to the backbone, to carry the cockpit.
The runners, the runner plank, and the backbone must be alined
carefully, so that they are at right angles, and track properly;
otherwise the craft will not keep a true course, and cannot be
controlled properly by the rudder runner. The backbone and runner plank
are held rigidly by four ¹⁄₄-in. wire-rope stays, shown in Fig. 2. They
are fixed to eyes on the bands at the bow, near the ends of the runner
plank, and to an eyebolt below the cockpit. The stays are provided with
turnbuckles, so that they may be adjusted as required. The bands near
the ends of the runner plank are fixed to the lower ends of the masts,
as shown in detail in Fig. 4, and are reinforced with oak blocks. The
ends of the guy wires are fastened to the eyes by looping them and
clamping the resulting eye with steel clamps made for this purpose.
Metal thimbles may be fitted into the loop of the rope, to make a
better finish; other fastenings may easily be devised by one skilled
enough to make such a construction.
The wishbone mast is made of two poles of hickory or ash, 3¹⁄₂ in.
thick at the base, and tapered to 2 in. at the top. The poles are
joined carefully at the masthead, bolted together, and fitted to an oak
breast hook, as shown in Fig. 6. An iron strap reinforces the joint,
and an eye, fashioned at its upper end, affords a point of attachment
for the forward stay of the mast. The lower ends of the poles forming
the mast are fitted into sockets in the runner plank, which is
reinforced with mast blocks, as shown in Fig. 4. The ends of the mast,
projecting beyond the lower side of the runner plank, are fitted with
eye bands, used in guying the runner plank and backbone.
The sails are carried on a yard and two booms, of the same material as
the masts, each 16 ft. long, 2³⁄₄ in. at the middle and tapering to
1¹⁄₂ in. at the ends. They are fitted with metal rings at the ends to
prevent splitting. The yard and booms are fitted to the backbone at the
bow by means of loops bolted to them and engaging an eyebolt and ring
on the backbone. The eyebolt is fitted into a slotted plate of ³⁄₁₆-in.
sheet iron, and fastened by a lever nut, as shown in Fig. 5. The sheets
are fastened to the yard and booms in the usual manner, being fitted
with grommets, and tied with line. The yard is suspended from the
masthead by means of a line and pulley, the former being cleated to the
backbone. The booms are controlled by the operator from the cockpit,
by the use of lines and pulleys, similar to the arrangement used on
sailboats, except that a duplicate set is required for the additional
boom. The lines are cleated on the backbone convenient to the cockpit.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 6
FIG. 5
FIG. 2
FIG. 4
FIG. 3
The Wishbone Mast Provides a Strong Construction of Marked Stability,
and the Double Booms and Sails Permit of Great Speed When Running
before the Wind. When Tacking, the Sails and Booms are Used as One Boom
and Sheet. Figure 1 Shows the Side Elevation; Fig. 2 a View of the
Lower Side, and the Details are Shown in the Other Figures]
The sails are of the lateen type, and should be made of 8-oz.
unbleached cotton duck. The breadths are sewn together by lapping
one edge over the other about 1 in., and sewing or stitching along
the edge. Yard-wide material is satisfactory, and if narrower laps
or bights are desired, simply fold over 1 in. of the goods and
double-stitch the seam. The bights should run parallel with the after,
or leach, edge of the sail, as shown in Fig. 1. Each corner of the sail
should be reinforced with a triangular patch of duck, so that it will
stand up under the severe strain of winter usage. The edges of the sail
may be bound with ¹⁄₄-in. tarred rope, which is not difficult if a
sailor’s palm and a diamond-pointed needle are used. Sail twine, well
waxed, should be used for the sewing of the sails.
The edges of the sails adjoining the yard and booms are provided
with grommet holes by means of which the sails are attached to their
supports. The grommets are made by punching holes in the sails, at the
proper points, fitting two ³⁄₄-in. brass grommet rings into the holes,
one at each side, and overcasting them with a buttonhole stitch. The
sail needle and waxed sail twine are used. The reef points are of the
usual type, and are made of ¹⁄₈-in. cotton rope, whipped at the ends to
prevent raveling, and sewed to the sails at intervals.
The craft is designed to be taken down when not in use, particularly
between seasons, and can be stored in comparatively small space, in the
knockdown form. The method of setting up the ice yacht will serve to
illustrate, also, the method of taking it down, in that the process is
practically reversed. First, the backbone is fitted with the forward
ring and the strap bolts are fastened at the crossing of the backbone
and runner plank. The runners are fitted into place, and the steering
rigging is adjusted. The wishbone mast is set into its steps, clamped
at its masthead, and the bands fitted to the lower ends. The guy wires
at the bottom and that at the masthead are then set, by means of the
turnbuckles. The sails are attached to the yard and booms, and the
forward end of the latter supports are fixed into place. The pulley at
the masthead is fitted with ³⁄₈-in. rope which is fastened to the yard,
at the proper point, as indicated in Fig. 1. The rigging by which the
booms are controlled is threaded through the pulleys at the stern and
the ends fixed on the cleats. The yard may now be hauled up and the
craft trimmed so that the sails “set” properly. The halyard is fixed to
the yard, as shown, and run through a pulley at the masthead, then down
through a second pulley fixed to the runner plank, from which it is
conducted to cleats convenient to the operator in the cockpit.
The main sheets are rigged as shown in Fig. 1. The ends of the lines
are lashed to the ends of the booms, passed through pulleys, at the
stern of the backbone, on the booms, about 1 ft. from the ends, and
5 ft. from the ends, respectively, then down to the cleats at the
cockpit. This rigging gives good purchase on the lines and makes it
convenient for the operator to attend to the helm and the lines at
the same time. The fittings are, as nearly as possible, designed to
be standard and may be purchased from ship chandlers, or dealers in
marine hardware and fittings. The special metal parts may be made by
one of fair mechanical skill, or may be made by local blacksmiths. The
woodwork is all comparatively simple. The masts, yard, and booms should
be smoothed carefully, sandpapered lightly, and finished with several
coats of spar varnish. The other woodwork may be painted suitably, and
the metal fittings should be finished with two coats of red lead, or
other good paint for use on metals exposed to the weather.
The manipulation of this craft is in general similar to that of the
common lateen-rig, or other sail and ice, boats. When running before
the wind--free--the booms are separated and the wind acts against the
sails in the pocket between them. When tacking, the booms are brought
together, and the sails act as one sheet, on a craft of the ordinary
type.
Cork Plugs Save Wear on Drafting Board
Draftsmen, whose work demands the use of drawing paper of uniform
size, sometimes experience difficulty in fixing thumb tacks solidly
in the board. This is caused by the continual placing of tacks in the
same spot and may be overcome by the use of cork plugs which can be
removed when worn. At the four points where the tacks are generally
placed, bore 1-in. holes nearly through the board. Insert corks large
enough to be forced into the holes and trim them off flush with the
surface. Tacks will hold firmly in them and new corks may be inserted
as needed.--G. F. Thompson, Pittsburgh, Pa.
Stand for a Test-Tube Flower Vase
A test-tube vase, containing a single blossom, adds color and a certain
individual touch to the business man’s desk, or it may be used with
effectiveness in the home. A simple wooden stand, finished to harmonize
with the surroundings, may be made easily, and affords a support and
protection for the test tube. The sketch shows a small stand of this
type, made of oak, in the straight-line mission style. It may be
adapted to other woods and to various designs in straight or curved
lines.
[Illustration: The Stand Provides a Support and Protection for the
Test-Tube Vase on the Office Desk or in the Home]
The base is 2¹⁄₂ in. square, and rests on two cross strips, 1 in. wide.
All the material may be about ¹⁄₄ in. thick, but it is desirable to
have the base and cap pieces of thicker stuff. The uprights may be of
¹⁄₈ to ¹⁄₄-in. stuff, and are notched together as shown. They are 1 in.
wide and 6¹⁄₄ in. long, a portion being cut out to receive the test
tube. The cap is 1¹⁄₂ in. square, and its edges are chamfered slightly,
as are those on the upper edge of the base. The pieces are fitted
together with small brads, used as hidden dowels, and the joints are
glued. Brads may be used to nail the pieces together, and they should
be sunk into the wood, and the resulting holes filled carefully. The
stand should be stained a dark color, or left natural, and given a coat
of shellac or varnish.
Pouring Liquids Quickly from Containers
In pouring a liquid from a jug or bottle, the vessel should be held
with the opening downward, rather than horizontally, if convenient,
and swung quickly with a circular motion. The liquid will rotate and
in leaving the opening will permit air to enter continuously, causing
the liquid to run out rapidly and without intermittent gurgling sounds.
If the opening of the container is at one side it is best to hold the
container so that the opening is at the highest point of the end rather
than at the bottom. The air may thus enter and permit a continuous flow
until the container is empty.--E. F. Koke, Colorado Springs, Colo.
A Table-Knife Sharpener
The knife sharpener shown can be easily made of two pieces of thin
wood, such as cigar-box covers, about 2 in. wide and 2¹⁄₂ in. long, and
two discarded safety-razor blades of the heavier type. Lay the wood
pieces together and saw a slot down the center for about 1³⁄₄ in. Lay
the two razor blades at an angle of about 2° on each side of the slot,
as shown, fasten them to one of the boards, and securely attach the
other board over them.
[Illustration]
To sharpen a knife, run it through the slot two or three times. The
sharpener can be fastened with a hinge so that it will swing inside of
the drawer, or box, that the knives are kept in, and it will always be
ready for use.--Contributed by Henry J. Marion, Pontiac, Mich.
Raising and Lowering Curtain at a Distance
[Illustration: A Ribbon or Tape Attached to a Curtain Roller to Operate
It at a Distance]
To enable an invalid, or any other person, to easily raise and lower
a curtain from a position at a distance from the window, a ribbon can
be attached to the roller, at the center and on the inner side of the
curtain. The ribbon may extend across the room in line with the window,
and still operate the curtain as well as with the regular cord attached
to the bottom. If desirable to operate the curtain by a vertical pull,
a flat pulley may be conveniently fastened to the ceiling or wall,
and the ribbon passed over it, or through a ring, as shown. This plan
is especially adapted for show windows where the curtain string would
otherwise mar the appearance and be hard to get at.--Contributed by L.
E. Turner, New York, N. Y.
The Mystic Climbing Ring
[Illustration]
The performer hands out a wand for examination and borrows a finger
ring. He holds the wand in his hand, point upward, and drops the ring
on it, then makes mesmeric passes over the wand with the other, and
causes the ring to climb toward the top, stop at any place desired,
pass backward, and at last fall from the wand. The wand and ring are
examined again by the audience.
To produce this little trick, the performer must first provide himself
with a round, black stick, about 14 in. long, a piece of No. 60 black
cotton thread about 18 in. long, and a small bit of beeswax. Tie one
end of the thread to the top button on the coat and to the free end
stick the beeswax, which is stuck to the lower button until ready for
the trick.
After the wand is returned, secretly stick the waxed end to the top
of the wand, then drop the ring on it. Moving the wand slightly from
oneself will cause the ring to move upward, and relaxing it causes the
ring to fall. In the final stage remove the thread and hand out the
wand for examination.
[Illustration: Skis and Ski Running
By Stillman Taylor.]
PART I--Prominent Types of Modern Skis
The requirements of the modern ski call for a hard, flexible, and
tough material, and while hickory, white ash, white maple, birch,
yellow pine, white pine, and spruce are all used, the experienced ski
runner considers hickory and ash to combine in the fullest measure the
qualities most desired. Of course, every wood has its limitations as
well as merits. Hickory is elastic and fairly tough, but heavy. Ash
resembles hickory so far as elasticity is concerned, and its weight is
about the same, but the wood contains soft layers. Birch possesses the
requisite lightness, but is far too brittle to prove serviceable, and
pine is open to the same objection. Maple makes an excellent ski, which
can be finished very smooth so as to slide more easily than the other
woods, but it is much less flexible than either hickory or ash.
The Telemark-Model Ski
This form of ski, so called from the Telemarken province of Norway,
where the art of ski running has reached a high order of skill, is
probably the choice of the sportsmen wherever the exhilarating sport
of ski running is practiced, and the larger portion of the members
of the numerous skiing clubs use the Telemark-model ski. This type
is practically identical with the most popular model so long used
in Telemarken, and the rule for its selection is to choose a pair
whose length reaches the middle joint of the fingers when the arm is
stretched above the head. There are various makers of this type of ski,
and while the modeling will be found to differ but little, there are
numerous brands sold which are fashioned of cheap and flimsy material,
and consequently unsatisfactory in every respect.
The Telemark model is shown in Fig. 1, and from this sketch it will
be seen that the wood has two curves or bends, one running its entire
length to form a graceful arch, and the second, at the toe. The first
one is technically known as the “arch,” and the other curve the “bend,”
while the front or toe end of the ski is called the “point,” and the
rear end the “heel.” In almost all skis the under, or running, surface
is provided with a hollow, known as the “groove,” which runs from the
heel to the bend. It will be noticed in the drawing that the sides also
are gently curved, thus making the ski a trifle broader at the ends
than in the center. This curve affords a somewhat greater bend at the
heel, and while some experts approve, others disapprove of it, but most
ski runners agree that the curve should not be pronounced, or it will
prove a handicap and make it difficult for the runner to secure a firm
grip at the edge when ascending steep slopes covered with hard snow.
The “arch” of the ski is necessary to avoid bending when the weight of
the body is on the runner, and the total height of this important curve
should not exceed ³⁄₄ in., for a too exaggerated arch will practically
form a concave running surface and retard the speed, since it will run
on two edges, or points, instead of on the entire running surface. A
slight arch may be reckoned necessary to offset the weight of the body,
but the utility of the ski, in nearly every instance, will be less
affected by too little arch than by too great a curve at this point.
A good ski is told at a glance by its bend, which must never be
abruptly formed, nor carried too high. A maximum curve of 6 in. is all
that is ever required, and to prevent breaking at this, the weakest,
part of the ski, the bend must be gradual like the curve of a good bow,
thus making it more flexible and elastic at this point. As a rule, the
ski should be fashioned a trifle broader at the bend than at any other
point, and the wood should be pared moderately thin, which will make it
strong and resilient with plenty of spring, or “backbone.”
The groove in the running surface is so formed as to make the ski
steady and prevent “side slip” when running straightaway. In fact this
groove may be compared to the keel of a boat, and as the latter may be
made too deep, making it difficult to steer the craft and interfering
with the turning, so will the badly formed groove interfere with the
control of the ski. The Telemark round-faced groove is by far the best
form, and for all-around use is commonly made ¹⁄₁₂ or ¹⁄₈ in. deep.
Not all Telemark skis are thus fashioned, however, some being made
without the groove, while others are provided with two, and I have
seen one marked with three parallel hollows. The shallow groove is the
most satisfactory for general use, and while a groove, ³⁄₈ or ¹⁄₂ in.
deep, is good enough for straightaway running, it makes turning more
difficult.
To attach the ski binding, which secures the shoe to the runner, a hole
in the form of a narrow slit is made just back of the center. This is
the usual manner of attaching the foot binding, and while it cannot but
weaken the ski to a certain extent, it is the best method for making a
secure foot fastening, and weakens the wood to a much less extent than
the use of bolts, or other metal fastening.
So far as finish is concerned, most Norwegian makers finish their skis
with a coat of black paint, while other makers stain the wood, and some
finish the wood in the natural color by varnishing. This applies to the
upper surface only, the running surface being rubbed down with linseed
oil and made smooth with wax.
The Swedish Ski
This type of ski is made quite long and comparatively narrow, with
a deep groove, and is well adapted for running on the level or for
gliding down slight slopes. This type of ski is commonly used in
Lapland and to a less extent in the northern parts of Norway, but
the great length and quick, short bend make this model less adapted
for ordinary use, since the deep, rectangular groove slows down the
speed, and the great length makes turning doubly difficult. For special
conditions this type is probably useful, but it can scarcely be
considered suited to the average use.
Lilienfeld Ski
This type of ski is favored by but comparatively few ski runners, and
the modeling is inferior to the Telemark ski. The arch is excessive
in height, the bend is abrupt and stiff, while the round point,
fashioned to prevent sticking in loose brush, has apparently little
value in actual use. The Lilienfeld ski is made without a groove,
and since the whole model is shorter and broader than the usual type
of ski, turning is more easily accomplished, but side slipping is,
of course, considerably increased. Ease in turning is a desirable
quality, to be sure, but steadiness and immunity from side slipping are
far more valuable qualities in a ski designed for all-around use. In
short, the Lilienfeld model possesses no decided advantages over the
Telemark type, but has many points of inferiority. To one who has used
both models there can be no question but that the Telemark model is
preferable.
When purchasing skis the sportsman will make no mistake in selecting
the Telemark model, and for an active person the skis should be long
enough to reach to the middle joint of the fingers, when the arms are
stretched above the head, and the ski is stood upright on its heel. The
length of a pair so selected will be from 7¹⁄₂ to 8 ft. For elderly and
less active persons, for individuals of short stature, and for ladies,
skis reaching to the wrist joint will be about right; the length
ranging from 6¹⁄₂ to 7 ft. For youths and children shorter skis, from 5
to 6 ft. in length, according to the size and strength of the person,
are of course required.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
The Telemark, Swedish and Lilienfeld Models with Grooves and Grooveless
Bottoms, the Telemark Being the Standard and Best All-Around Ski; the
Swedish is Long and Narrow with Upturned Heel, and the Lilienfeld Is
Short with a Round Point, More Abrupt Bend, and without a Groove]
For all-around use where a large amount of straight running is done,
the running surface should be provided with a groove, but if there is
not much straight work to be done, and ease in turning is regarded as
an important factor, the running surface should be made smooth. This
necessitates making the skis to order, for practically all ready-made
skis of the Telemark model are fashioned with a shallow groove.
However, a groove may be easily cut in at any time if wanted later on.
While other types are at times preferred for special use in certain
localities, the Telemark-model ski is the standard, being equally good
for all kinds of work, straight running, uphill skiing, and for jumping.
The best materials are hickory, or white ash, with a straight, even
grain running from end to end. Ash is well liked by many experts, but
it would indeed be difficult to find a more satisfactory wood than our
American hickory. In fact, many of the most prominent makers in Europe
are now fashioning their skis from American timber. As a rule, the best
well-seasoned ash, or hickory, is heavier in weight than an inferior
grade, and this is why the expert skier considers weight as one of
the reliable “earmarks” of first-class material. A good hickory, or
ash, ski made by any reputable maker will give the fullest measure of
satisfaction.
The finish of skis is purely a matter of personal taste, but
practically all Norwegian skis are painted black on the upper side,
while a few of the cheaper maple and pine implements are stained. The
plain varnished finish protects the wood as well as paint, but allows
the grain to show through, and is generally preferred by experts. The
running surface must be as smooth as possible to obtain the best speed,
and it must not be varnished, the wood being filled with several coats
of linseed oil to which a little wax has been added. Tar is used to
some extent, but this preparation is mostly employed by Swedish makers.
The Requirements of Foot Binding
[Illustration: FIG. 2]
The manner in which the foot is secured to the ski is highly important,
and while various kinds of “bindings” are in use, from the simple
cane binding, which marked the first substantial improvement over the
twisted birch withes originally used by the peasantry of Telemarken,
the Huitfeldt bindings are for many reasons considered the best by
experts. The ski runner must have a foot binding that is well secured
under all ordinary conditions met with in ski running, and it must be
quite rigid and without lateral play. It is desirable also that the
foot be freed whenever a fall occurs, thus preventing possible sprains
at the ankle and knee, as well as avoiding breakage of the straps.
Again the heel of the skier should be free to move up and down for
at least 3 in., but the binding should check the vertical movement
at this height, thus easing the foot of undue strain when the ski is
slid forward, in climbing or working on the level. These essential
specifications are so well incorporated in the Huitfeldt model that
the description and illustrations of this admirable attachment will
suffice. As shown in Fig. 2, the boot is wedged into a firm position
between the metal toe piece at the sides. To secure a rigid support,
these toe pieces must be firmly wedged in position on the ski, and the
skiing shoe should fit between them snugly and well. For this type of
binding, a shoe having a stout sole is desirable so that it may keep
rigid under the pressure of the body at various angles, and be heavy
enough to stand the more or less constant chafing of the metal toe
plates. One excellent feature of this binding is the arrangement of
the toe and heel straps, which allow all necessary vertical movement
of the foot, yet at the same time provide a fairly rigid strong,
and reasonably light foot attachment. When fitted with the Ellefsen
tightening clamp, and it is a good plan to order the Huitfeldt model
so equipped, the skis are easily put on and taken off. A large number
of experts prefer this binding above all others, but the Huitfeldt
type of binding may be made by the skier if desired. Any metalworker
or blacksmith can supply the metal toe pieces, and the binding may be
completed by adding suitable straps, or the foot may be secured at the
heel by leather thongs.
The Skiing Stick
While there are occasions when the proficient ski runner can dispense
with the stick, as in jumping and practicing many fancy turns and
swings, a good stick must be reckoned a valuable implement for climbing
and downhill running, and often a help on a level. The beginner should
not depend too much upon the stick, however, but should acquire the
knack of handling the skis without this aid early in his practice. In
short, the novice should practice both with and without the stick, that
he may learn all the little points of balancing the body unaided, but
every skier ought to know how to use the stick, that he may rely upon
its assistance whenever necessary.
[Illustration: FIG. 3
Skiing Sticks with Staff of Bamboo or Hard Wood Having an Easily
Removable Aluminum Washer]
The use of two sticks may be of help for mountain climbing, but the
majority of ski runners consider one stout stick to be of more real
service. For downhill running, the extra stick is of no value whatever,
but rather a hindrance, the one stick being all that is required for
braking. In choosing a stick, its height may be such that it will reach
to the shoulders of the skier, although many prefer a shorter one. On
the average, a stick 5 ft. long will be found about right for most
persons, while a proportionately shorter stick will be required for
boys and girls. Bamboo of good quality is generally preferred, since
it is light, elastic, and very stiff and strong. Hardwood sticks are a
trifle heavier, but if fashioned from straight-grain hickory, or ash,
are as satisfactory as the bamboo. In any case, the end of the stick
should be provided with a metal ice peg, and a ferrule to strengthen
the wood at this point. A few inches above the peg a ring, or disk,
is fastened, and this “snow washer” serves to keep the stick from
sinking too deeply into the snow. Wicker rings, secured with thongs
or straps, are much used, as are also disks of metal and hard rubber.
A decided improvement over these materials has been brought out in a
cup-shaped snow washer made of aluminum, which is flexible and fastened
to the stick with clamps so that it can be easily shifted or removed
at will. This feature is a good one, since the washer is often useful
for assisting braking in soft snow, but is likely to catch and throw
the runner if used upon crusted snow, hence the detachable arrangement
is of value in that it supplies an easy way to take off the washer
whenever desired. The sticks are shown in Fig. 3.
Necessities of the Skier’s Outfit
For skiing an ordinary pair of heavy-soled lace shoes that fit well
are suitable, but to keep the heel strap of a binding from slipping,
the shoes should have broad, concave heels, or a small strap and
buckle, firmly sewed in place at the extreme end of the heel, should
be fitted to them. Personally, I prefer the heel strap to the special
heel, but any cobbler can fit the shoes with either one. Specially
designed skiing shoes, or boots, as shown in Fig. 4, are to be had at
the sporting-goods dealers’, and while good, are somewhat expensive,
because most of them are imported. Of course, shoes for skiing must be
amply large so that one or two pairs of woolen socks may be worn; two
pairs of thin, woolen stockings being less bulky and very much warmer
than one extremely heavy pair.
[Illustration: FIG. 4
Specially Designed Skiing Boots, Handmade for the Sport, with and
without Heel Buckles]
For clothing, the soft, smooth finish of the regulation mackinaw
garments cannot be improved upon for outdoor winter wear, although any
suitable material will serve as well. Smooth-finish material is the
best in all cases, because cloth of rough texture will cause the snow
to stick and make it uncomfortable. Regulation mackinaw trousers, split
at the bottom and fastened with tapes to tie close to the ankle, are
as good as any, over which cloth puttees, or leggings, may be worn to
keep out the snow. For the coat, a mackinaw, made Norfolk-style, with
belt and flap pockets secured with a button, has given me the most
satisfaction. For ladies, close-fitting knickerbockers and leggings are
generally preferred when a short skirt is worn.
How to Make Skis
To anyone who can use a saw and plane, the making of a pair of nicely
balanced and durable skis is a very easy job. Ski making is far easier
than snowshoe construction, since each runner is made from a single
piece of plank, and no intricate filling is required. In choosing the
wood, either hickory or ash will give satisfaction, because both are
heavy woods, as well as strong and flexible, and may be worked down
much thinner than birch, fir, or other materials. If it is desired to
fashion the skis from the rough material, procure two ash, or hickory,
planks, about 9 ft. long and 2 in. thick. Should the maker wish to
hew his own material, select a sound and straight tree, about 10 in.
in diameter, free from knots for at least 10 ft., and fell it during
the winter. Place the log in the crotch of a stump and cut a groove
along its length with the ax, taking pains that the groove is straight
and about 1 in. in depth. Turn the log over and make a like groove in
the opposite side. Rap the bottom of the grooves lightly with the ax,
to start the split, and drive in small wood wedges, gradually working
them along as the wood splits. At some points the wood will very likely
split away from the groove, but by cutting these fibers, the split may
be kept along the grooves. As the strongest and best grain of the wood
will lie closest to the bark, only enough of the outside should be hewn
away to make a flat surface, for this is to be the running surface of
the ski. Skis may be made in any length and width, but for a man of
good height, 7 to 8 ft. is the correct length. In Fig. 5 is given a
complete layout pattern for an 8-ft. ski, and from the dimensions it
is an easy matter to fashion skis longer or shorter by making use of
these well-balanced proportions. While the plan of the ski may be drawn
directly on the plank, it is an excellent idea to make a paper pattern,
and laying this down on the board, trace around it to get the correct
outline.
[Illustration: FIG. 5
A Complete Layout Pattern for an Eight-Foot Ski: From These Dimensions
It Is an Easy Matter to Fashion Skis Longer or Shorter by Making Use of
These Well-Balanced Proportions]
[Illustration: FIG. 6
The Wood is Selected by the Way in Which the Growth of the Grain Runs]
When purchasing the sawed material, the buyer should endeavor to obtain
a plank which has been sawed out from the lower portion of the trunk
of the tree, from the outside. The dealer will not be able to assist
in choosing lumber for this particular purpose, hence the buyer should
know something about the growth of good wood in the tree, and how to
pick out this desirable material by noting the run of the grain. This
is very well shown in Fig. 6. The letters A, B, and C show the run of
the grain produced by the ring growth of the tree, and D, E, and F
indicate the appearance of rings, in the run of the grain seen in the
sawed plank. The best possible choice for wood is represented by A and
D, because the layers of good and elastic wood run deep, and there is
practically no soft layers of punky wood. That represented by B and E,
and that of C and F, contain a larger percentage of soft layers, and
while skis can be, and often are, fashioned from this kind of material,
the wood is less strong and flexible than that of wood showing the
grain as A and D, hence the latter should be chosen whenever it
is possible to do so. While wood of fairly close grain does not
necessarily indicate inferiority, if the material is hickory, yet if
ash is selected, the purchaser should select an open, or widely spaced,
grain in preference to a close and even-grained plank. And this is so
because in all trees the grain represents the more quickly grown soft
wood--formed in the period of greatest growth, which is in the spring
and summer months--hence the more grain present in the plank and the
closer it runs, the more soft and punky wood is present, and the less
durable the material will be for the purpose.
When drawing the dimensions on green, or partly seasoned, timber, a
certain amount of shrinkage will occur, hence be sure to allow for this
and make the width about ¹⁄₄ in. greater. When working seasoned lumber,
this need not be taken into consideration.
After the outline of the ski has been sawed out, the bottom, or running
surface, should be planed perfectly smooth, with the grain running
straight and true from the point to the heel. The ski should be worked
down to the desired dimensions before bending, and from the top, or
upper, side only, never from the running surface. When the correct
thickness has been reached, the bend at the point may be put in by
soaking the wood well to make it pliable. This is most easily done by
heating water in a wash boiler, and when the water boils, place the ski
across the top and thoroughly soak the wood by mopping with the boiling
water, using a cloth tied to a stick. That the bend may be gradual and
not too abrupt, do not attempt to bend it to the desired arc at once,
but gradually work the wood and resort to numerous hot-water treatments
until a good 6-in. bend is obtained. The arch in the running surface is
easily obtained, and if bent too much, is easily straightened out when
cold. Of course, more bend must be given the skis than the actual curve
will be when finished, since the wood will straighten out somewhat
as it dries. Some kind of a form will come in handy, and this may be
furnished by making a rough frame and placing a short length of log
of the proper diameter at the bends, or the tips may be lashed, or
cleated, to the floor of the workbench. A very easy method is shown in
Fig. 7.
[Illustration: FIG. 7]
After the bends are made, the hole for the foot binding should be put
in, and if the wood has been left plenty long, the skis may be trimmed
off at the heel so that they will balance nicely when lifted by the toe
straps. This is the best way, for while a few skiers prefer to make the
heel light and weight it with lead, there is no advantage in doing so.
The groove in the exact center of the running surface should now be
cut in, which is made about ¹⁄₈ in. deep, and ³⁄₈ to ¹⁄₂ in. in width.
A grooving plane is most convenient, but a small gouge, if carefully
used, will do as well. The groove should run from the heel to the
beginning of the bend.
To finish the ski, sandpaper top and bottom smooth, and rub down with
linseed oil to which little paraffin, or beeswax, has been added. The
running surface of the ski should be finished with oil and waxed, and
it is an advantage that the entire ski be finished in the same manner,
as less snow will stick to the tops than if varnish is used. The
experienced skier is more concerned about the running qualities of his
skis than the finish, but the novice is more likely to be attracted by
fancy implements. When varnished tops are wanted, a glossy and durable
surface is obtained by brushing on a couple of coats of good spar
varnish.
A tube, or cake, of wax should be carried by every skier, for the
running surface must have numerous coatings that the snow may not stick
to the wood. Both paraffin and beeswax are suitable, and the skier may
use one of the several good preparations put up in tubes and in cakes,
or melt up his own, as preferred. A good cake, or hard, wax is made by
melting up 10 oz. of beeswax with 5 oz. of rosin. When melted, stir in
1 oz. of turpentine and pour in small boxes to form cakes of convenient
size.
The running surfaces are often waxed by rubbing the wax on and then
going over the surfaces with a hot flatiron. This is a good method,
providing only a sufficient quantity of wax has been applied. A too
liberal application of wax cannot be called a disadvantage when running
downhill, but it will make the runners so slippery that climbing uphill
is difficult.
Filling Toy Rubber Balloons with Hydrogen
[Illustration: Apparatus for Filling Toy Rubber Balloons with Hydrogen
Gas to Make Them Fly to a Great Height]
Any boy can easily convert a toy rubber balloon into a real flier by
constructing the simple device shown in the illustration for filling
it with hydrogen. Procure a clay pipe and break off the stem near the
bowl. Bore a hole in a cork, or preferably a rubber stopper, selected
to fit some bottle and insert the smaller end of the pipestem in the
hole. As the stem tapers, if the hole has been made for the smaller
end, a tight fit is assured by simply pressing the stem well into the
cork. Tie the open end of the stem on the balloon tightly over the
larger end of the pipestem, and have ready a thread to tie the stem of
the balloon when it is filled.
Procure from a local drug store 1 oz. of hydrochloric acid. Place
some nails, or better still, a few strips of zinc, in the bottle
and cover them with a little water, then pour a small quantity of
the hydrochloric acid into the bottle and assemble as shown in the
illustration. In a few minutes hydrogen gas will be given off, and if
the joints are tight, the balloon will begin to fill. After it has
expanded as much as it will stand without breaking, tie the end with
the thread, and cut off any parts of the mouthpiece that may weigh it
down. If sufficient gas has been passed into the balloon it will rise
to the ceiling. Balloons filled in this manner have risen to a height
of several hundred feet.
Caution: Do not allow the hydrochloric acid to come in contact with the
skin or clothing, as it may cause frightful burns. Do not under any
circumstance fill the balloon near a flame or allow fire to come near
the bottle.--Contributed by Ralph C. Jenkins, Manchester, Vt.
How to Polish Instrument Bases
There seems to be a feeling among mechanical and electrical
experimenters that there is something mysterious about the process of
wood finishing, and often one may see a really fine piece of apparatus
spoiled by mounting it on a shellacked baseboard. I have found that it
is a very simple matter to produce almost a piano finish on all woods,
even those as soft as poplar, in the following manner. Quick-drying
wood dyes should be avoided. Simply rub down a piece of ordinary
water-color cake into some plain water and apply freely with a rag,
rubbing it in well. Any color may be obtained in this way, but if this
is not convenient, use an oil stain made quite thin with turpentine.
Next apply a thin coat of shellac, which should be sandpapered when it
is dry. A coat of ordinary varnish is then applied, and when this is
thoroughly dried, rub lightly with fine steel wool. One coat of varnish
may be sufficient, although several coats will produce a richer finish.
Rub the last coats down well with an oily rag dipped in some abrasive
material, such as tooth powder or metal polish, and finish with a
simple oil rub. A beautiful, soft, transparent effect may be obtained
in this way on very ordinary woods. Any open-grained woods, such as
oak, must be filled with a paste filler after staining.--Contributed by
John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
Locating Droplight in the Dark
[Illustration: The Cord Fastened to the Door Casing is Easily Located
and Followed to the Lamp]
A simple device for locating a droplight can be had by putting a
nail or screw eye into the side of the door casing, high enough to
clear persons passing under it, but within easy reach of an uplifted
hand, and running a cord from it to the light. It is not difficult
to locate the cord attached to the casing and to follow it to the
light.--Contributed by H. S. Craig, Rushford, Minnesota.
* * * * *
¶If kerosene oil is used when drilling, reaming, or turning malleable
iron, it will make the work much smoother.
How to Make an Experimental Lead Screw
[Illustration: A Copper Wire Wrapped around and Soldered to a Straight
Rod for a Lead Screw]
Often in experimental work a long, narrow, parallel screw is desired
for regulating, or moving, some part of the apparatus in a straight
line. A simple way of making such a screw is to tin thoroughly a small
straight rod of the required length and diameter. After wiping off
all the surplus solder while it is yet hot, wrap it with a sufficient
length of bright copper wire and fasten the ends. This wire is then
securely soldered in place by running the solder on while holding the
screw over a blue gas flame. To make the solder run freely, brush
frequently during the heating with a small mucilage brush dipped into
the soldering acid. An even pitch can be secured by winding on two
wires side by side at the same time, the second one being unwound
before soldering.
Self-Setting Rat Trap
[Illustration: The Paper Stretched over the Barrel Top was Cut after
Feeding the Rats on It for Some Time]
A suburbanite successfully trapped a bunch of rats by stretching a
piece of stout elastic paper on the top of an open barrel. Spreading
food on this paper he allowed it to remain until the suspicions of the
rats were allayed, then he cut two right-angled slashes in the paper
with a razor. Next morning he found seven of the pests in the barrel.
Smoker’s Cabinet or Cellarette
[Illustration: The Smoker’s Cabinet Makes an Attractive Addition to the
Furniture of a Den, and should be Made Up and Finished to Match Other
Pieces of the Room]
This design, when completed, takes up a wall space 20 in. wide by 31
in. high, and extends out 14 in. The material necessary for it is as
follows:
2 sides, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 31 in.
1 back, ³⁄₄ by 14 by 28¹⁄₈ in.
1 bottom, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 20 in.
1 top, ⁷⁄₈ by 10¹⁄₄ by 18³⁄₄ in.
1 bottom shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 10¹⁄₄ by 14 in.
Door:
2 stiles, ³⁄₄ by 2 by 14¹⁄₂ in.
2 rails, ³⁄₄ by 2 by 10 in. (not including tenons, if such are
desired).
1 panel, ³⁄₈ by 10³⁄₄ by 11¹⁄₄ in.
Upper drawer:
1 front, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 14 in.
1 back, ³⁄₈ by 3¹⁄₄ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
2 sides, ¹⁄₂ by 4 by 9⁷⁄₈ in.
1 bottom, ³⁄₈ by 9⁵⁄₈ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
Lower drawer:
1 front, ³⁄₄ by 5 by 14 in.
1 back, ³⁄₈ by 4¹⁄₄ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
2 sides, ¹⁄₂ by 5 by 12⁷⁄₈ in.
1 bottom, ³⁄₈ by 12⁵⁄₈ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
1 piece for keys, ³⁄₄ by 2¹⁄₄ by 6¹⁄₄ in.
1 pair hinges.
2 drawer pulls.
Screws and nails.
In constructing the cabinet, the outer frame should first be made. The
sides can be laid out and cut to the desired design. The top and bottom
crosspieces should then be squared up, and the tenons cut as shown,
the bottom tenons extending farther, to balance the design. The top
is set in ³⁄₄ in. from the back edge. Holes should be marked and cut
for the ³⁄₄-in. keys, after which the four parts may be assembled, and
suitable keys driven in place. The back for the cabinet is made from
³⁄₄-in. material, squared up to fit between the sides, and be flush
with their top edges while resting on the bottom crosspiece. It can be
fastened in place with nails. The top and bottom pieces of the cabinet
proper can then be made, and secured in place with round-head screws,
after which the door may be made and fitted. The stiles and rails of
the door should be rabbeted for a ³⁄₈-in. square groove, to hold the
panel in place. The frame can be made sufficiently strong, if properly
glued and held together with dowel pins passing through the stiles into
the rails. If it is desired to fasten the frame with tenons, an extra
amount must be added to the length of the rails given in the stock
list. The panel should not be glued in place, as the shrinkage of the
wood will cause it to crack.
In making the drawers, the front should be rabbeted for a groove to fit
the drawer bottom, and sidepieces can be fitted and nailed in place.
These should be rabbeted for grooves, into which the bottom and end
pieces fit.
If the cabinet is finished in mission style, or fumed oak, hammered
copper or brass hinges and drawer pulls will go well with the general
appearance of the design.
[Illustration: Skis and Ski-running Running, Jumping and Climbing
By Stillman Taylor]
Part II
Before the beginner makes the attempt to ski, he should see that his
complete outfit is perfectly suited to his purpose. The shoes should
be nicely adjusted to fit snugly between the metal toe plates of the
binding, and new holes should be punched in the straps wherever needed
to adjust the harness snugly and comfortably to the feet. Many of the
positions required in executing the various turns and swings may be
practiced at home, that the novice may get some idea of the correct
position of the feet and body assumed by expert skiers. For the initial
practice outside, it is a good plan to select a frosty day when the
snow is old and settled by the wind. This will introduce the novice
to the sport under favorable conditions, while if the first trials
are made shortly after a heavy snowfall, or upon a mild day when the
snow is thawing, only discouragement will be experienced. Begin with
one stick--or two if timid--and pick out an easy-sloping hill with a
gradual run to the level ground. A few scattered trees and rocks will
do no harm, for it is a good plan to learn how to avoid them from the
beginning.
How to Turn on Skis
This and the correct manner of standing on skis are easily mastered
if the beginner will but remember that the weight of the body should
rest largely upon the advanced foot without bending the body at the
ankle too much, or raising the heel from the ski. This is the correct
position to assume when standing for a rest and for sliding, and this
as well as turning should be practiced on the level. To make the kick
turn, simply raise the point of the ski until the heel rests on the
snow, as shown in Fig. 1. Swing the ski around by turning the point out
and back until the two skis are point to heel, as shown in Fig. 2. When
this, the most difficult position of the three, is assumed, raise the
point of the other ski as high as convenient to avoid tripping, keep
the heel down and swing the ski around over the heel of the other until
both are facing in the same direction, as shown in Fig. 3. A little
practice will make it possible for the novice to turn quickly, and
if all turns are made with the advanced foot, when practicing on the
level, no trouble will be experienced later on in attempting to turn on
a steep slope. The stick is really indispensable for this practice, and
while two may be used, the single stick will be found assistance enough
for any active person.
When skiing on level ground the correct movement is rather more of a
slide than the motion used in walking or skating. The body is thrown
forward on one ski and the slide is made with both feet, most of the
body weight being thrown on the advanced ski, while the rear foot is
slid forward without stopping the forward travel, as shown in Fig. 4.
The expert skier moves forward in long gliding steps without raising
the ski, but bending the knees slightly to slide the ski ahead. The
feet should be kept as close together as possible to make a narrow
track and the stick used to lengthen the slide. At the beginning it
is a good plan to endeavor to make a long slide with each advancement
of the foot, rather than strive to take long steps. The speed of
level running depends, of course, upon the condition of the snow. On
hard, well-packed snow, sliding is easiest and greater speed obtained,
while in deep and soft snow less speed is the rule. When skiing on the
hard snow of a road, four miles an hour is the average speed, and for
average level running, the skier will cover about the same distance as
when walking along a good path.
[Illustration:
FIG. 1
Raise the Point of the Ski until the Heel Rests on the Snow
FIG. 9
The Skier Runs Straight Downhill on One Ski and Uses the Other as a
Brake
FIG. 2
Swing the Ski Around by Turning the Point Out and Back
FIG. 8
On Hard Snow the Edges of the Skis may be Used to Check the Speed
FIG. 3
Raise the Point of the Other Ski as High as Convenient to Avoid Tripping
FIG. 7
When Running Downhill One Ski should Be in Advance of the Other a Few
Inches
FIG. 4
The Body is Thrown Forward on One Ski and the Slide is Made with Both
Feet
FIG. 6
The Herringbone is Much Used When the Skier Wishes to Travel up a Short
and Steep Incline
FIG. 5
The Skier Naturally Places His Skis at Right Angles Rather than Permit
the Slipping Backward]
When traveling uphill, the regular sliding gait will suffice if the
slope is gradual, but when a steep grade is encountered and the ski
slips backward, the skier stands quite erect, raises the point of his
ski about 3 in., and slaps it down smartly, without pulling it backward
or making any attempt to push his body forward with the stick. This
slap of the ski makes the smooth surface of the runner adhere better
than when the runner is slid forward in the usual manner. If the
hill is very steep, the skier will naturally place his skis at right
angles rather than permit the slipping backward. This is known as
“side-stepping,” and is shown in Fig. 5. In doing this, the heel of the
ski must be raised clear of the snow and the upper foot lifted uphill,
then the lower foot brought up to the last step of the upper foot,
hence it is extremely tiring for other than a short distance.
A variation of this movement, which is known to skiers as the “half
side step.” and which is made by advancing the foot with the legs
somewhat wider apart, and the skis placed at not quite so acute an
angle with the hill, is more useful when climbing the ordinary steep
grade and is far less laborious. If the skier knows how to handle his
implements, side-stepping may be done backward when necessary.
The “herringbone” is another step which is much used when the skier
wishes to travel up a short and steep incline. This step is made by
stretching the legs rather wide apart and pointing the toes out, as
shown in Fig. 6, at a decided angle, so that the knees are bent inward
and the inside edges of the skis cut into the snow. A variation of
this is the “half herringbone,” the skis being turned out at a less
acute angle. These special steps for special purposes are all useful
now and then in mountain climbing, but when a long distance is to be
covered, the skier will conserve his energy by mounting the hill in a
zigzag fashion rather than attempting to climb straight up. The track
of the skier will then resemble the course of a boat tacking through a
narrow inlet against a head of wind, and while more ground is covered
than when going straight up the steepest part of the hill, progress is
faster and much hard work is avoided.
When running straight downhill, one ski should be in advance of the
other a few inches, and the skis must be held quite close together so
that they touch, or nearly so, as shown in Fig. 7. To make a narrow
track, most expert skiers hold the knees together with the back knee
slightly bent. However, the body should be perfectly and easily
balanced. This is done, more or less, intuitively, by beginning the
run with the body thrown on the advanced foot, and when full speed is
attained the weight automatically shifts to the rear foot. The novice
will find it difficult at first to keep the skis together, there being
an almost uncontrollable desire to separate them to gain a better
balance. A good track will come with a little practice, but if the
skis are too short, or made without a groove, even an expert would be
compelled to keep his feet a trifle apart and make a double track in
order to keep from falling.
[Illustration: FIG. 10
The Christiania Swing is Accomplished by Pressing with Both Heels at
the Same Time While the Stick Digs Well into the Snow Above]
When making the start preparatory for coasting downhill, the novice
may, if the slope is moderately steep, face in the desired direction
and assume the proper position by supporting himself with the stick.
On most very steep slopes, where the best coasting is to be had, this
is quite out of the question, and the skier must step around quickly
by moving the lower ski first. This will be somewhat difficult to do
until the novice gains more confidence, which will quickly come after
a little practice, and it is a good plan to practice starting from the
slope without the aid of the stick to anchor the body. Owing to the
fact that the skis do not reach much speed at the start of the coast,
even the slow novice will have plenty of time to make the turn and face
in the right direction before much speed is attained. A comparatively
crouching position, secured by bending the knees and the body at
the waist, will much lessen the liability of a fall forward. This
position enables the skier to control the balance of his body with more
certainty, and especially when coasting on a hill where patches of ice,
or crusted snow, and soft spots of unpacked snow are encountered, a
condition usually found wherever skiing is enjoyed. When coasting, the
stick, or sticks, should be firmly grasped at the upper end with the
looped thong, or strap, over the wrist, and the end dragging behind.
Balancing is done entirely at the waist, and for straightaway running,
the weight of the body will rest largely upon the rear ski. The long
running surface of the ski will carry the skier over many bumps and
hollows without disturbing the balance of the body or causing a fall,
providing the novice does not lose his nerve. It is necessary to
practice on rough and uneven ground if the skier desires ever to attain
much expertness, and plenty of falls must be expected, but not dreaded
by the beginner. A fall on skis is by no means fraught with danger,
and one may fall with impunity providing all muscles are relaxed. Many
beginners find falling the easiest manner of stopping, but this should
not be necessary, providing the hints given are well understood and
practiced. However, the novice should have no fear of falling if he
wants to become proficient on skis, and to offset any timidity, which
so very often causes the novice to lean backward and fall in this
direction, it is a good plan to lean well forward to check this natural
tendency. Getting up after a fall is easily enough managed if the
head is pointing up the slope, but when the position is reversed much
floundering is necessitated. It would seem that this would be obvious
to all, yet the majority of beginners often forget it altogether.
Braking with the stick is only effective when the body is properly
balanced, and the stick is kept well forward and as nearly vertical as
possible. Straddling the stick, sitting upon it, or leaning backward
on it held at an angle, are slovenly methods which every novice should
avoid.
The “snowplow” is most largely used by all good skiers for braking,
stopping, and turning. This is accomplished by stretching the legs wide
apart and at the same time turning the toes in as much as possible,
thus presenting the side of the ski to the snow and retarding the
speed. Aside from straddling the legs wide apart, the novice will have
no trouble in learning this useful knack. For the first practice, pick
out a fairly steep hill road, or a hillside where the snow is old and
not soft. Begin the run as for coasting, and when good speed has been
attained, spread the legs wide apart, turn the toes in and endeavor to
control the speed with the skis rather than depend upon the stick. On
hard snow the edges of the ski may be used to check the speed, but on
ordinary soft and well-packed snow, the runner may be kept quite flat.
This is well shown in Fig. 8.
The knack of “stemming” is a variation of the snowplow, inasmuch as
the skier runs straight downhill on one ski, and turns the heel of the
other ski outward and downward and uses it as a brake, as in Fig. 9.
This is a very useful movement, and is largely used when coasting down
steep slopes, and when one has learned the knack of it, stemming will
serve for braking and steering, and is useful for stopping by turning
the skiing course uphill. To earn it, select a steep hillside, coast
down at an angle, with the feet a trifle part, and endeavor to retard
the speed with the stick and turn the heel of the lower ski outward.
This makes the turn and the skier faces uphill and comes to a stop. By
turning the heel of the lower ski outward and the heel of the upper ski
inward, the skis will travel downhill with a sort of snowplow movement.
When practicing these movements, the beginner should endeavor to use
the stick as little as possible and learn to depend upon the skis for
controlling the speed.
The “side slip” is useful on steep slopes, and is done by turning the
skis so that the runners are at a decided angle to the course traveled.
This affords the maximum braking by the skis alone, and is especially
effective when combined with the braking done with the stick.
Side-slipping may, of course, be done while the skier is traveling
forward, by keeping the skis close together so that the edges almost
touch. While this movement checks the speed in much the same manner as
stemming, side-slipping is less tiresome, since the weight of the body
gives the required braking effect, while, in stemming, the muscles are
called upon to keep the heel pressing outward.
[Illustration: FIG. 11
The Swing is Made upon One Ski Instead of Using Both as in the
Christiania Swing]
Closely akin to side-slipping is the Christiania swing with the stick,
which is accomplished by pressing with both heels at the same time,
while the stick digs well into the snow above. This variation of the
side slip is easily done, and the skier is turned sharply uphill to
come to a quick stop. When a sharp hill is met with, that is considered
a bit too steep to take straight, this swing with the stick may be made
by taking a zigzag course down grade steering clear of any obstacles
by snowplowing, stemming, or side-slipping; and turning the corners,
or “tacking,” by making use of the Christiania swing and the stick, as
shown in Fig. 10.
The “S”-turn may likewise be used for turning corners, without the
necessity for stopping to make the ordinary kick turn. A good way to
learn this useful movement is to run straight downhill in a snowplow
position, reduce the speed to a comfortable walking pace with the
stick, and stem with the ski. If this is done with the right ski, the
“S”-turn is made by throwing practically the whole weight of the body
on the right ski, at the heel, and pressing it outward while the stick
is carried ahead and below the skier. If the heels are kept well apart,
and the toes close together, the skier will have no trouble about
swinging around in a curve and be off on the other tack. About the only
difficulty in making the “S”-turn is the position of the body, which
must be thrown somewhat out and away from the hill. To the novice this
at first seems to invite a fall, but a few trials will soon prove that
the weight of the body must be thrown on the foot which circles on the
outside of the curve, hence the apparently unnatural position of the
body is essential for a good turn. By bringing the stick well forward
and downhill, the skier uses his staff as a pivot upon which the turn
is made.
The Christiania swing, made without the stick, is a favorite with
expert ski runners when running on rough and steep ground and is a good
way of stopping. The swing may be made both to the right and left. To
make it to the right, keep the skis close together, the right a trifle
in advance, with the weight of the body equally on both feet and with
knees slightly bent. Now throw the weight more forward and upon the
toes, while the heels are carried forward and outward to the left.
The body must lean to the right--the direction in which the swing is
made--and twisted somewhat at the waist; and the sharper the turn, the
more the body must lean sideways to keep the balance. The swing to the
left is made in the, same fashion, only the left ski should be a trifle
advanced and the body thrown to the left.
[Illustration: FIG. 12
To Make the Jump the Skier Assumes the Easy Position Required for
Coasting Downhill]
The Telemark swing is more difficult to master than the Christiania
swing, because it is done on one foot, or ski, instead of using both,
and as it is less powerful than the latter, it is of far less use for
stopping. To make the Telemark swing to the right, assume the regular
position for downhill coasting, and, advancing the left foot, turn
the ski so that it rests on its edge as when making the snowplow,
throw the body to the right and lean in toward the slope to keep the
balance. To make the swing to the left, advance the right foot, turn
the body to the left and lean as before. This is shown in Fig. 11. The
Telemark turn is, in fact, made in the same manner as stemming, and
the sharpness of the swing rests altogether upon the quickness with
which the heel is thrown outward and the body turned in the direction
the skier desires to swing. The swing is made upon one ski, and the
key to the whole swing is the knack of raising the heel of the other
foot off its ski until it rests upon the toes. That this is hard to do
goes with the telling, and the novice should first acquire the knack of
balancing by running straight downhill with the weight thrown on one
foot. When this can be done, and not before then, the skier is ready
to practice the turn. The Telemark swing, like all other turns, is
easily acquired at slow and moderate speeds, and becomes more and more
difficult to make as the speed is increased and the turn is made more
sharply and quickly.
Jumping on skis is one of the most exhilarating winter sports, and it
is a pity that it is not more popular wherever a medium-heavy fall of
snow occurs. While touring on skis across a hilly country, there will
be many natural jumps to encounter, for drifts, stumps, rocks, and
other rises in the ground, when well covered and padded with snow, make
good jumping-off places. While but a few skiers may have attempted
such high leaps as the famous Holmenkollen, Fiskertorpet, or Foldberg,
all who have done much ski running have done a little jumping, since,
when running downhill, an unexpected dip is often encountered, and a
rise in the ground causes the skier to leave the ground for a short
distance and alight several feet below. Doubtless the skier has enjoyed
the flying-like sensation of this brief moment, and very likely he has
climbed the hill to repeat the jump. Moreover, this has very likely
demonstrated that the distance of the jump depends upon the height of
the dip, the speed of the skier passing over it, and likewise upon the
spring of the body on the take-off. In making a jump of any height, the
take-off may be level, pointing up or even downhill, and constructed
with framework extending out from the hillside, or consist merely of
a large boulder, or a pile of logs, well padded with snow. The height
of the slope chosen will, of course, regulate the distance of the
jump, and the place where the jumper alights should be fairly steep,
since, if the skier lands upon a level place great difficulty will
be experienced in keeping the balance, therefore the usual jumping
hill, where jumping competitions are held, is provided with a 30°, or
steeper, landing place, and this merges gradually into the outrun, or
slope, connecting the hill with the level ground below.
[Illustration: FIG. 13
Each Member of the Party should be Provided with a Ruck Sack of Good
Capacity]
For the safety of the skier, the snow should be firm but not icy or
hard, and this is easily done by packing the snow down well by means
of the skis. A good, thick padding of snow is of course essential, and
a thickness of 2 ft. is really needed at the landing place and at the
take-off. In our more northerly sections, plenty of snow usually falls,
but wherever a few sportsmen get together, it is an easy matter to
shovel sufficient snow to prepare a good and safe jumping hill.
To gain confidence and acquire some useful experience in jumping, the
novice should practice leaping from a 2-ft. rise and gradually increase
the height of the take-off by piling more snow upon it to increase
its height. One or two packing cases firmly placed upon a smooth,
steep hillside, and well padded with 2 ft. of well-trodden snow,
will make a nice take-off. For the beginning the take-off may point
slightly downhill or be fashioned level, and as the skier becomes more
proficient, snow may be added to the edge so that the take-off will
send the jumper well up into the air.
The knack of jumping is nothing more than balancing the body upon
alighting, and the steeper the landing place the easier it is to keep
the balance. To make the jump in good form, the skier assumes the easy
position required for coasting downhill, as shown in Fig. 12. When
within a dozen yards of the take-off the body is lowered until the
skier is in a crouching position with the arms extending back as in
the act of jumping. Arriving within a couple of yards of the dip the
body and arms are thrown forward, which transfers the weight of the
body upon the toes, and the body is straightened up and the arms are
raised not unlike the wings of a bird, to keep the perfect balance of
the body. The straightening up of the body, known to skiers as “the
sats,” is the leap proper and must be timed so that the body assumes an
erect position when the jumper is not less than 12 ft. from the edge of
the take-off. The beginner will invariably jump too late, but after a
little practice, and profiting by numerous mistakes, the take-off will
be timed correctly. Alighting after a jump is best done by advancing
one ski a trifle to keep the balance, and bending the knees a bit to
lessen the impact. The jumper ends with the Telemark or Christiania
swing.
When taking tours of any length on skis, each member of the party
should be provided with a ruck sack of good capacity. That of the
expanding type, made with two outside pockets, and with gores at the
sides, is a good, sensible pack. It should be made of 8-oz. waterproof
khaki and fitted with shoulder straps of good width, to prevent chafing
the shoulders. Leather ruck sacks are sometimes used, but are heavier
in weight and more expensive but no better. One member of the party
should carry some kind of repairing outfit, consisting of an awl,
a length of leather thong, a few spare straps and a stout cord, or
string. These sacks are shown in Fig. 13.
Knife, Fork, and Spoon Holder
[Illustration: The Holder Keeps the Cutlery in a Position for Easy
Selection and Grasping]
The holder is made of a piece of sheet copper of sufficient thickness
to support the number of pieces of cutlery used. The piece is notched
to admit the different pieces, and its back edge is bent at right
angles to provide means of fastening it to a support, a wall or the
back of the kitchen cabinet. It will save space, as well as time, since
it is much easier to grasp one of the articles when wanted than if they
are kept in a drawer.--Contributed by L. E. Turner, New York City.
Making Round Rods for Fish Poles
In looking forward to the enjoyment that may be had in the spring, it
is well to prepare and overhaul the fishing apparatus or the shooting
equipment. In doing so, it may be necessary to make a joint for the
fish rod or perhaps a rod for the gun. These can be easily cut if
they are sized and run through holes made in a piece of thin metal as
follows: Make several holes of the desired sizes in a steel plate, and
ream them out with a rather dull taper reamer, so as to leave a bur on
one side. This bur should be filed down almost level with the surface
of the metal, leaving the edges flat and sharp. If a rod of wood from
which the article is to be made is put in a hole and drawn through from
the opposite side to the bur, a nice round rod will result. As the rod
becomes smaller, use a smaller hole until the required diameter is
obtained. A saw plate that is not too thin is about the proper thing
to use for the steel plate. It will be necessary to draw the temper to
make the holes, but it is not necessary to retemper it after the holes
are made.
* * * * *
¶Celery keeps well in a small box of dry sand.
[Illustration]
A Ski Sled
BY GEORGE J. EGELBERG
The sled is built low and wide so that it will not tip easily. The
skis, or runners, are cut 10 ft. long and 6 in. wide, from 1-in. ash
boards that are straight-grained. At the points where the curve is to
be formed, plane off about ¹⁄₄ in. on the upper side, but do not plane
off any at the very tip end. This will allow the skis to be more easily
bent. If it is not handy to steam the skis, put them in boiling water,
and be sure that at least 1¹⁄₂ ft. of the points are covered. Provide
a cover for the vessel, so that only very little steam may escape. Let
them boil for at least one hour. A good method of bending the points
is shown. When the skis are taken from the water, put them as quickly
as possible in the bending blocks, side by side, and bend them with a
slow, even pressure. Weight the extending ends and leave the skis in
the blocks 8 or 10 hours to dry. Sharpen the points after they are bent.
[Illustration: The Runners are Shaped Like a Ski and are Joined
Together with Knees for the Top Board]
The sled will run easier if the skis have a slight rocker curve. To
make this curve, have the center block 6 in. while the two end blocks
are 5¹⁄₂ in. high. A ¹⁄₄-in. flat-head bolt is run through the ski, the
block, and the cross strip. The holes are countersunk in the surface
for the heads of the bolts. The top is made of three 6-in. boards,
fastened to the crosspieces. It is a good plan to brace the tips of the
skis with a 2-in. strip.
Clocks for the Craftsman
[Illustration: An Ordinary Alarm Clock Mounted in a Wood Base Made
in Elaborate Designs to Resemble a Timepiece of High Value; yet
Inexpensive to Make]
Three designs of clocks are shown, which can be easily made in oak, or
other wood, that will match other furniture. The sizes of the pieces
required are given by the dimensions in the drawings.
The clock is a matter of choice. Prices in most stores range from 75
cents up and the works are of the ordinary alarm-clock variety. After
selecting the clock the small legs as well as the back plate are
removed. The hole cut in the wood for the clock must be a snug fit, and
after placing it in position, the back plate is replaced.
The finish may be a wax or gloss, as desired, and directions for
applying it will be found on the can containing the material.
A Compact Galvanometer
A small portable galvanometer is one of the most useful instruments to
the electrical experimenter. There are continually arising instances
where it is necessary to test through and identify certain wires, for
which purpose a small galvanometer and a dry cell are quite sufficient.
For comparing the resistances by the well-known Wheatstone-bridge
method, a galvanometer is, of course, indispensable. If the winding is
made suitable, or by placing a shunt across the terminals to reduce
the deflection, a small galvanometer will roughly indicate the current
passing and thus enable one to compare his dry cells and eliminate the
weak ones. Rough voltage comparisons may also be made by placing a
resistance in series with the galvanometer.
For constructing this instrument, a good pocket compass, of about 2-in.
diameter, must be procured. Prepare a neat little box with the four
edges accurately beveled off. On the under side of this, carefully
cut a channel, about ¹⁄₂ in. wide and 2¹⁄₂ in. long, to a depth that
will bring the bottom of the slot within ¹⁄₈ in. of the top of the
base block. Place two binding posts on the base, as indicated, and
secure the compass in place with cement, or by two very small nails
put through the bottom. If the glass cannot be removed, it will be
necessary to solder the nail heads to the bottom of the compass box,
after having carefully removed the lacquer.
The correct wiring will depend on the strength of the current handled.
It is, however, very easy to get an idea of what the deflection will
be under certain conditions by merely making a preliminary trial,
after winding a few turns of any magnet or bell wire at hand around
a small piece of wood, and slipping the coil so formed into the slot
on the under side of the base block. The winding may be from two or
three turns of heavy wire up to several hundred turns of fine magnet
wire, but after one or two trials, the maker will have no trouble in
determining his particular requirements.
[Illustration: Galvanometer Made of a Compass Set on a Wood Base, with
Coil and Wire Connections]
The final coil should be wound lengthwise on a wood core, and the whole
packed neatly into the slot. Connect up the ends to the binding posts,
and then glue in a thin piece to hold the coil in place.
By drilling a small horizontal hole through the base, as indicated
by the two dotted lines in the top view of the working drawings,
and inserting a small bar magnet, ¹⁄₈ in. in diameter, or less, the
instrument may be rendered independent of the earth’s magnetism and
used without reference to the north point. Such a controlling magnet
reduces the time required to bring the needle to rest after it has been
violently reflected.
* * * * *
¶Woodwork about a house, when primed with white lead made quite thin
in raw linseed oil, will never blister unless moisture gets back of
it. Yellow-ocher priming will cause blistering at any time up to 20
years.
A Perpetual Calendar
[Illustration: It is Only Necessary to Change the Sliding Pieces to Set
the Calendar for Each Month]
It is only necessary to set this calendar the first of each month, by
sliding the insertions up or down, to get the proper month or week.
The calendar, as it is shown, is set for January, 1916. Saturday is
the first day and Friday the seventh, and so on. It is not confusing
and can be read either by the day or date. If the day is known it will
show the date, and if the date is known it will show the day. The
illustration clearly shows the parts, which can be cut from heavy paper
or cardboard.
Heater for the Experimenter
A convenient small heater for heating liquids in experimental work, and
even in making a hot drink where there is no gas, can be readily made
from an ordinary oil lamp and a small round can, having a crimped-on
head or bottom. The can should be of such diameter that the prongs
of the lamp burner will hold it firmly in place. A hole should be
made in the bottom of the can. It is then placed, upside down, on the
lamp burner. If the top comes too far from the flame, cut off a strip
around the edge.--Contributed by Clarence S. H. Anderson, Worcester,
Massachusetts.
[Illustration: A Camp Chair Constitutes the Body of the Sled and the
Legs are Equipped with Runners]
A Folding Ice Sled
On a smooth ice surface, or on hard snow, the sled shown will run
easily, and a skater can push another with surprising speed by a light
push on the shoulders while the rider rests his feet on the front of
the runners. The sled is light, and it can be folded up and carried
under the arm. It is also handy for putting on the skates, or for use
in a crowded car.
Any camp stool will do for the main part of the sled. Holes are bored
in the ends of the legs to receive the lugs on the runners snugly. If
the builder is not equipped with a forge, a blacksmith will make the
runners cheaply. The sliding surfaces of the runners are smoothed with
a file.--Contributed by Thomas Lappin, Portland, Ore.
* * * * *
¶A column of water 27.6 in. will have a pressure of 1 lb. per square
inch.
Cleaning Tinware with Milk
Some housewives advise a system of dry-cleaning for tinware for the
reason that it insures a surface free from rust which is less liable
to burn. Where washing is preferred, however, a little milk added
to the water proves more satisfactory than either soap or soda, its
peculiarly solvent effect upon grease obviating all necessity for hard
scouring, which latter will wear the tin coating and gradually cause
the article to become useless for holding food and more apt to rust
into holes.--Contributed by J. E. Pouliot, Ottawa, Can.
Proper Way to Wrap Papers for Mailing
[Illustration: The Clipped Corners Prevent the Adhesive from Coming in
Contact with the Paper inclosed]
In using a homemade paper wrapper for mailing purposes cut a triangular
section from each end of it before applying the paste or mucilage. This
prevents the adhesive from oozing out at the edges and sticking to the
paper it incloses. This also permits the easy withdrawal of the paper.
Groove Cutter for Wood
Having occasion to cut some grooves in a board and not being properly
equipped for such work, I made the tool shown in the sketch. Although
rather crude in appearance it will do good work if properly made. It
consists of a handle, A, shaped to afford a comfortable grip for the
hand, and a cutter, B, made of a short piece of hacksaw blade, clamped
along the left side of the handle by the strip C, which is held with
screws. A pin, D, driven into the handle and allowed to project about
¹⁄₁₆ in., prevents the blade from sliding back under the clamp. For
guiding the blade, the arrangement F is employed. An extension, E,
is nailed on the right side of the handle, and holes made near each
end for two screws having round heads, such as may be obtained from
discarded dry batteries. These screws are for securing the sliding stop
F, which is a flat piece of hardwood with slots cut near the end for
screws to pass through to provide for adjustment.
[Illustration: Two Slots are Made with the Cutter, and the Stock
between Them Removed with a Chisel]
In use, the guide F is adjusted until it is the desired distance from
the cutter and then secured by the screws. The tool is handled like a
plane, care being taken not to bear down too hard, as the cutter may
bind and cause it to be pulled from the clamp. In cutting a groove, two
slots are cut and the stock between them removed with a chisel.
A One-Runner Sled
[Illustration: The Barrel Stave Has a Sufficient Curve to Make It Pass
Smoothly over Hard Snow]
Just an ordinary barrel stave, with a center post and a crossboard for
a seat, makes a good one-runner sled. Select a good, smooth stave for
the runner and securely fasten the upright, which is 1 ft. long, to it
in the center. The seat is made of a board, about 1¹⁄₂ ft. long, nailed
to the upper end of the upright.
Substitute for a Gas-Stove Oven
Wishing to bake a nice loaf cake one afternoon for dinner, and finding
that the fire in my range had gone out, I remembered an oven shown me
at one time for use on a small gas plate, which consisted of a cover,
a bottom piece, and a support for the pan. The thought came to me that
with all my pots and pans I ought to be able to get some results by the
combination of two pie tins, a cake pan, and a stew pan, and on trial
it baked as fine a cake as anyone could wish.
[Illustration: A Combination of Pie Tins, Cake Pan, and Stew Pan to
Make Temporary Gas-Stove Oven]
A small pie tin was placed in a larger one, as shown; on this was
placed the cake pan filled with the cake batter, and over the whole
was placed the stew pan, which acted as a heat retainer or oven. A
good hot flame was used at first, and was then gradually turned lower
until the cake was finished.--Contributed by Mrs. Anna M. B. Romig,
Allentown, Pa.
Box Cover without Hinges
[Illustration: Box Cover Using Pins Instead of Hinges to Keep It in
Place]
Two ordinary boxes may be fitted together as one without using hinges,
if nails or screws are inserted at points along the edges so that they
will slip into holes bored at corresponding points in the edges of the
other box. The nail heads or screw heads should be filed off or cut off
after being placed in position.
* * * * *
¶All metal patterns should be thoroughly cleaned with a stiff brush
having plenty of beeswax on it and dipped in powdered plumbago. Brush
the pattern well, and it will draw easily and make a smooth casting.
Sanitary Holder for Thread and Dental Floss
A simple and convenient method of protecting a spool of thread,
or dental floss, from collecting dirt and germs is shown in the
illustration. A small glass jar, with a metal screw top, is procured,
of such a size that it will easily accommodate the spool of thread
desired to protect, with at least ¹⁄₈ in. clearance all around the edge
of the spool. Procure a short piece of stiff wire, not more than ¹⁄₁₆
in. in diameter, and make a frame similar in form to the one shown. The
center portion of this frame should be just a little longer than the
spool, so that a small wood key may be placed through the eye formed
in the wire and thus hold the spool firmly on the frame. The outside
portions of the frame should be such a distance apart that they will
rest against the sides of the jar and of such a length that they will
reach from the bottom to the top of the jar when the lid is screwed
down tightly. If these dimensions are observed, the spool and frame
will remain in a fixed position in the jar.
[Illustration]
A small opening, just a little larger than the thread, is made in the
center of the lid, through which the thread is to pass. The edges of
this opening are smoothed off so that they will not cut the thread when
it is being drawn out. A small cutter may be made by forming a V-shaped
opening in the lid, through which the thread is to pass. The edges of
the V-shaped piece are sharpened to serve as a cutting edge. The end of
the thread will be held under the V-shaped piece after it is cut, thus
preventing it from falling back into the jar.
* * * * *
¶The word “diameter” when applied to gears is always understood to
mean the pitch diameter.
[Illustration: The Sporting Rifle
and How to Use It
by Stillman Taylor]
Sportsmen are interested in rifles and rifle shooting largely from
the hunting standpoint, although target shooting is a favorite sport
with many of them. This discussion of the sporting rifle will be
concerned, therefore, principally with the hunting aspects, other
forms of shooting being considered as good methods of practice, and
the development of skill in the use of hunting weapons. The novice, as
well as the good shot, must have a suitable weapon, and should have at
least a general knowledge of the types of rifles available, and their
common uses. A number of representative types of rifles are shown in
Fig. 1, and the details of the breech mechanisms and sights in Fig. 2.
Targets and a homemade device for backing them are shown in Fig. 3. The
full-page illustration shows several positions in the use of the rifle;
a moving-target arrangement, to be constructed by the ambitious shot;
a diagram of the trajectory of a rifle bullet, and several diagrams of
the vital shots, in hunting common big game.
The single-shot rifle, shown at A, Fig. 1, has been largely supplanted
by the repeater and the automatic, so far as hunting is concerned. For
use exclusively in indoor shooting, a heavy rifle of the “Schuetzen”
type is best suited. A high-grade ornamented rifle of this type is
shown in the headpiece of this article.
The most popular type of American rifle is the repeater of the
lever-action variety, shown at B. The lever action embodies many good
points: quickness of fire, ease of operation, freedom from jamming at a
critical moment, strength, and plenty of stopping power. The mechanism
of the lever-action repeating rifle is shown in detail at J, Fig. 2,
and that of the falling-breech-block type of single-shot rifle, at K.
Several other types of lever-action rifles are shown in Fig. 1.
Almost all lever-action repeaters are of the tubular-magazine type, the
magazine extending under the barrel, sometimes the full length--full
magazine; or halfway--half magazine. Rifles of these types are shown at
B and C, and a hammerless repeater at D.
The trombone, or pump-action, repeating rifle, shown at E, has a
mechanism similar to that used in the repeating shotgun, the sliding
forearm loading and ejecting the cartridge. The merit of the military
bolt-action rifle lies in its great strength and simplicity. A weapon
of this type was used by Roosevelt in Africa, and by other big-game
hunters. It is shown at F.
The chief advantages of the automatic rifle, shown at G, which is
a comparatively new weapon, are its speed in firing and its almost
noiseless action. This rifle has a recoil-operated action of the
blow-back type. That shown at H has a box magazine, and the automatic
action is based on the sliding of the barrel within a steel jacket. The
rifle shown at I may be used either as an automatic or as a pump-action
weapon.
The subject of stock and trigger adjustment is one to which every
experienced rifleman devotes considerable attention. The regular stock
rifle is built to standard dimensions, and often the stock is found a
trifle short. For the man of average reach, a 13³⁄₄-in. stock, with a
1⁷⁄₈-in. drop at the comb, and about 3 in. drop at the heel, will be
found satisfactory.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
Various Types of Rifles in Common Use: A, English Model, Single-Shot,
with Open Sights and Shotgun Butt; B, Lever-Action Repeater, Tubular
Half Magazine; C, Lever-Action Repeater, Box Magazine; D, Hammerless,
Lever-Action Repeater; E, Pump-Action, High-Power Repeater; F, Military
Bolt-Action, Sporting Model; G, Automatic, Blow-Back Action; H,
Automatic, Box Magazine; I, Automatic, Combination Pump-Action]
Rifle sights are of several types, of which there are in turn many
variations. Only the essentials of the standard types will be
considered. The regulation open sights, with which most rifles are
fitted at the factory, are the buckhorn rear and the Rocky Mountain
front sight. For a hunting rifle the most satisfactory sights are a
gold-bead front sight of about ³⁄₃₂-in. diameter, as shown in Fig. 2 at
L; a folding-leaf rear sight, shown at O, P, and Q, and a combination
rear aperture sight, at M and N, mounted on the tang of the rifle. An
arm so sighted is useful for all kinds of shooting. The combination
rear sight is used in deliberate shots at a target or at game, and the
folding-leaf sight is better than the buckhorn for quick snap shooting.
The sportsman who wishes to master the use of a rifle must have a
knowledge of the trajectory of such weapons, and particularly of the
rifle he uses regularly. He must know, also, how to aline the sights
correctly to get satisfactory results. The trajectory is the path which
the rifle bullet takes in passing from the muzzle of the rifle to its
mark. The force of gravity acts upon the bullet in flight and the
result is that the trajectory is curved, as indicated in the diagram at
the bottom of the page illustration. A relatively low trajectory is, of
course, desirable in a hunting rifle. The black-powder, or slow-speed,
cartridge has a relatively high trajectory, while the high-power
smokeless cartridges have relatively low trajectories.
The adjustment of the sights of a rifle is also of much importance.
Every rifle is targeted at the factory, but this may be done by a fair
shot, using the following method: Arrange three boxes, so that the
rifle barrel may rest upon one, and the arms of the marksman upon the
other two. Place a bag of sand upon the box, so that the barrel may
rest upon it, about 6 in. from the muzzle. Put the target into place,
and adjust the sights for 100 yd. If the sights are properly lined up,
the shots should fall quite regularly within a 10-in. circle. With
peep, or other target, sights, much finer results will be obtained. In
moving the sights it must be remembered that to move the rear sight to
the right will bring the shot to the right, and vice versa, while if
the front sight is moved to the right, the arm will shoot to the left.
In making the test, first adjust the front sight so that it is in exact
alinement with the center of the barrel, and then all corrections may
be made by moving the rear sight.
The proper way to sight a rifle is to hold the front sight just clear
of the notch in the rear sight, with the front bead barely touching the
outer ring of the bull’s-eye, at the extreme bottom. This is shown at
R, Fig. 3. It is the rule of good rifle shot to “see daylight between
the sight and the bull’s-eye.” In any event, do not cover up the front
sight by drawing it down into the notch of the rear sight, so that only
the top of the bead is visible. Another frequent error is to hold the
front sight to cover the bull’s-eye.
[Illustration: The Off-Hand, Knee-Support, and Prone Positions in
Shooting should be Mastered by the Sportsman. The Diagrams Represent
Several Vital Shots, the Moving Target, and the Trajectory of a Rifle
Bullet]
The sportsman who wishes to become a practical rifle shot should learn
how to handle the rifle in the several useful positions, so that he
may be able to sight accurately under different conditions. Several
of the most widely used positions are shown in the page illustration.
The off-hand position, with arm extended, is the most commonly used
and best position for the sportsman to practice, for use in the woods.
The off-hand, with body rest, or elbow resting on the hip, is good for
target shooting. The “Schuetzen” style of holding the rifle, with palm
rest, is used only in fine match shooting.
The knee-rest position is often useful for the sportsman in stalking
game, when it is desirable to expose oneself as little as possible. A
steadier aim may be secured, especially if a strong wind is blowing.
The prone position is much used by military riflemen, but they are not
permitted the muzzle rest, whereas the hunter often uses it. It is easy
to learn, and more accurate shooting may be done in this position than
in the off-hand or knee-rest positions.
For indoor practice at a target, the .22-caliber rifle is best. By
fitting up a suitable backstop, shooting may be done safely in the
cellar or attic. A satisfactory backstop may be made by fastening a
plate of iron into a packing box, 3 ft. square, as shown in Fig. 3. The
plate must be set at an angle so that the bullets will be deflected to
the bottom of the box.
In order that the rifleman may check up his work, it is desirable
that a standard target be used. The American standard target, shown
in Fig. 3, has been adopted by practically all rifle clubs, and, as
the majority of records are made upon it, the sportsman should become
familiar with it. The paper targets are inexpensive, and it is easy to
draw accurate homemade targets from the original. By the use of disks
of black and white paper--known as gummed target pasters--one target
may be used several times.
If convenient to do so, the novice should shoot a string of shots
every day, in the various positions. Do not try to hurry, but shoot
deliberately at first, aiming to secure a good average, rather than
a few bull’s-eye shots and many wild ones. With reasonable practice,
it is not difficult to score eight bull’s-eyes out of ten shots,
when using the prone position. Having attained this proficiency, the
sportsman may be regarded as a fair shot, and is ready to take up
outdoor target practice with the high-power rifle.
[Illustration: FIG. 2
J, Mechanism of Lever-Action Repeating Rifle; 2, Breechblock; 7,
Cocking Lever; 19, Firing Pin, Front; 21, Firing Pin, Rear; 29, Guard
Finger Lever; 34, Hammer; 36, Lifter; 37, Locking Slide; 45, Mainspring
Plunger; 46, Mainspring Plunger Seat; 63, Trigger
K, Mechanism of Falling-Breechblock, Single-Shot Rifle; L, Gold-Bead
Front Sight; M and N, Combination Rear Aperture or Tang Sight, Raised
and Folded; O, P, Q, Folding-Leaf Rear Sight, Used as V-Crotched Sight,
Straight-Bar Sight, and Folded Flat to Barrel]
For outdoor target shooting the .22-caliber, long-rifle cartridge
will give very accurate results up to 100 yd. The standard target has
a bull’s-eye measuring 6 in. in diameter for 150 yd. Shooting may
be tried for a while at a fixed range, then the target may be moved
to an unknown distance and angle, and the marksman can try his hand
at estimating distance. Instead of changing his sights at varying
distances, the sportsman should learn how to estimate the distance of
the mark and the approximate elevation of the sights to land the bullet
within the circle. This is valuable practice for good shooting in the
woods.
After considerable practice at the stationary target, quick firing may
be varied by rigging up a sliding trolley arrangement, like that shown
in the page illustration. It is easily made by setting up two poles,
properly braced, one about 30 ft. tall, and the other about 10 ft.,
spaced 30 ft. apart. Between the poles, about 8 ft. from the ground,
stretch a length of stiff telephone wire, and make a wooden target
block W, with a metal sheave wheel, so that it may slide freely along
the wire. On the tallest post, a little above the wire, fasten a metal
pulley, Z, and at the top of the pole place a sash pulley. Then attach
a stout cord to the target block, reeve it through the two pulleys,
and attach a sandbag, or other weight, to the end of the cord, On the
shorter post, a latch, or trigger, Y, is fastened to hold the target,
which is released by pulling a string. With this easily constructed
device, much valuable practice may be had, for if the pole is fairly
high, the weight will cause the target to slide as rapidly as the
average game bird travels. In using this moving target, just as good
practice is obtained with a .22-caliber repeater as with a high-power
gun. In fact, the high-velocity ammunition should be used only on a
regular range, or where a suitable backstop is erected to stop the
high-power bullets. Such a backstop may be constructed of heavy lumber,
like old railroad ties, in the form of a crib, which is filled in with
sand or earth. When a natural background, such as a mound or hill, is
at hand, this may be used with safety, but a rocky hillside is not
satisfactory, for it is likely to deflect the bullets, and may cause
injury through stray shots.
[Illustration: FIG. 3]
As our antlered game, like the moose, the Virginia deer, the caribou,
and the elk, are held in higher esteem than other American big-game
animals, a few practical hints on where to sight, may serve to bring
better luck to the sportsman who has yet to bring in his first head.
The shoulder shot, shown in the rectangular sketch at S, T and U, is
taken by the experienced hunter whenever possible, in preference to any
other. It is the object of this shot to break the shoulder joint, and
thus prevent use of the forelegs. It is a vital shot, also, because
there is a good chance of the bullet passing through either the heart
or lungs, which will drop the game in its tracks. This is the most
effective of all shots, and as the hunter more often draws a bead while
the game is running away, the shoulder shot is used more than any
other. The exact spot, at which the aim should be taken, depends upon
the distance of the animal, and its rate of movement. If on the run and
the range of 100 yd. or more, the sight should be taken at the point S.
If less than this distance, sight at T, and, if the animal is standing
still, take deliberate aim at U, within the dotted inclosure. This area
represents what big-game hunters call the vital zone, and a soft-nose
bullet, placed anywhere within this spot, will be certain to stop the
game, often dropping it on the spot. It is possible to land a bullet in
a vital spot at distances up to 500 yd. with a high-power rifle, but it
is very likely that the game will be wounded only, and may escape to
die a lingering death. In taking long shots at big game on the run, the
sight should be taken well forward and a trifle higher than the marks
given, since the hunter must allow for the trajectory of his arm and
the time the bullet takes to reach its mark.
The front shot, shown at the right, has as its object to hit the heart
or lungs. It is a useful shot, and the sight is taken at the cross
indication on the breast. The head shot, shown in the circle, is a
brain shot, and is used only by the experienced hunter, when it is
difficult to land a shoulder or front shot. As the brain is well up
to the top of the head, the best point of aim is shown at V, midway
between the eyes and a trifle higher than their centers. This shot
is most effective when the hunter stands a trifle above the game, or
shoots when the game is charging head down. If on a level, aim just
above the eye, and if close to the game, land the bullet just below
the eye. The ear shot, as indicated by the cross, is taken at close
quarters, and the point to sight for is the inside of the ear at its
base.
A good rifle will give a lifetime of service, and the sportsman should
take care of it. The best time to clean a firearm of any kind is as
soon after shooting as possible, for the powder residue is then fresh
and moist, and is more easily and quickly removed. Black powder can
be removed with a wet rag, but smokeless powder not only leaves a
little powder residue, but also a film of gummy residue on the steel
which is not apparent to the eye. Common washing soda, dissolved in
water to make a saturated solution, is used to remove it. Any of the
ready-prepared nitro solvents are good for cleaning the rifle. A good
way to clean a rifle is to use strips of cotton flannel, cut into
squares of such size that they will fit snugly, but may be easily
pushed through the barrel on the head of the metal cleaning rod. Always
clean a rifle from the breech, if possible, by resting the muzzle on
a few folded papers on the floor. Push a couple of dry wipers down to
the floor to remove the carbon residue. Then saturate another square
of cloth with the nitro solvent, and carefully swab out the barrel,
turning the rod so that it will follow the spiral rifling. Repeat the
operation two or three times; then take a clean wiper, moistened with
the solvent, and repeat until the barrel is well lubricated with the
cleaning fluid. The barrel should be well oiled with any good, thick
oil, or liquid vaseline. The lock mechanism of the arm should be kept
clean and very lightly lubricated with any good thin oil, and the
gunstock polished with linseed oil.
Camera for Taking Pictures from a Kite
BY CHARLES I. REID
When watching a kite flying at a considerable height one frequently
wonders how the landscape appears from such a viewpoint as would be
possible from a kite. Few of us can have the experience of a ride
in an aeroplane, but it is quite possible to obtain a view from the
kite, by proxy as it were, through the use of a kite camera. A kite of
large dimensions would be necessary to carry an ordinary camera taking
pictures of fair size, hence it is necessary to devise one of lighter
construction, so that a kite of moderate size may carry it to a height
of several hundred feet. Such a camera is shown in the illustration
attached to a box kite. Details of construction are shown in the
smaller sketches.
A camera consists, briefly, of a light-proof box, with a lens at one
end and a sensitive plate or film at the other. For a kite camera,
a single achromatic lens will suit the purpose. Such a lens is not
expensive and may be taken from a small camera. It must be obtained
before the camera is begun, since the size of the latter is dependent
upon the focal length of the lens and the size of the picture to be
made. A camera taking pictures 2 in. square is satisfactory for kite
photography, and if it is desired to enlarge the pictures, this may be
done in the usual manner.
The box of the camera is made cone-shaped in order to reduce the weight
and air resistance. Its sides are of light-weight, stiff cardboard,
reinforced at the corners to insure that no light will enter. The
back of the camera is a tight-fitting cover of cardboard, having the
same measurements as the picture to be taken. The lens is fitted to
an intermediate partition, as shown in the sketch. It is necessary to
determine the focal length of the lens and to set it at a distance
from the inner side of the cardboard back of the camera--the film
surface--so that it will focus properly for photographing distant
objects.
[Illustration: The Kite Camera Offers a Diversion in Photography, and
Has Practical and Commercial Uses as Well. The Camera Shown Is of Light
Weight, Simple Construction, and Produces Film Exposures Two Inches
Square. A Sectional View of Its Construction is Given at the Left, and
the Details of the Shutter Device at the Right]
The front is provided with a circular opening of a size large enough
not to obstruct the view of the lens. A shutter made of thin pressboard
is fitted over the opening, as shown in the sketch at the right. A
slit is cut in the shutter through which light is admitted in making
the exposure as the shutter is drawn back. The size and width of the
slit regulates the exposure, and a few trials must be made to determine
the most suitable speed of exposure for the lens used. The shutter is
pivoted at its lower end and drawn back by a rubber band. A string, to
which a time fuse is attached, controls the releasing of the shutter to
make the exposure. The string holds the shutter closed against the pull
of the rubber band until the fuse burns up to the string, severing it.
The fuse must be long enough to enable the kite to attain a suitable
height before the string is burned. When the shutter has been set, and
the fuse attached ready for lighting, the camera may be taken into the
dark room for loading. A piece of film, cut to the proper size, is
placed carefully into the light-proof sliding cover, as with a film
pack, the sensitive side, of course, being placed nearest the lens.
The camera is attached to the kite securely at the middle, as shown,
so that when the kite is in flight a view nearly straight down will be
obtained. When all is in readiness the fuse is lighted and the kite
started on its flight. By timing experimental flights, the required
length of fuse may be determined in order to permit the kite to attain
the desired height at the time of exposure.
The kite used for taking pictures from the air should be large
enough to carry the kite easily. One of the box type illustrated is
satisfactory, although other types may be used. A kite camera for the
amateur has great possibilities for experimentation, but requires
care in construction and a reasonable knowledge of photography. To
the person willing to master the details, kite photography offers
a pleasurable diversion as well as practical uses in photographing
plots of ground, groups of buildings, manufacturing plants, and other
subjects which cannot be photographed by other methods.
How to Make a Canteen
Two sheet-metal plates that are well nickelplated may be joined and
provided with a suitable opening, to form a useful canteen for the
camper or hiker. The illustration shows such a convenience fitted with
a shoulder strap ready for use.
[Illustration]
It was made as follows: Two good-quality pie plates were soldered at
their edges to form a water-tight container. An opening was cut into
the edge and a screw cap, taken from a metal-polish can, was fitted
carefully and soldered over the opening. A wire was soldered at each
side of the screw cap, providing loops for the snap buckles of the
shoulder straps.--J. R. Townsend, Itasca, Texas.
Mixing Stick That Breaks Up Lumps
In mixing paint, or paste, it is desirable that all lumps be broken
up quickly, and that the forming of lumps be prevented as much as
possible. A mixing stick that will aid in this process is made as
follows: Procure a stick of wood, that will take nails without
cracking, and cut it about 1 in. square and 12 in. long. On one side,
beginning ¹⁄₂ in. from the end, drive five 8-penny finishing nails, 1
in. apart. On the next side, repeat the process, beginning the nails 1
in. from the end. Place similar nails on the other two sides, spacing
them to offset those on the other sides. The nails cause a thorough
mixing of the paste, or paint, prevent the forming of lumps of any
considerable size, and by careful stirring will break up all lumps in
the mixture.--Edwin R. Mason, Danville, Ill.
Tin Can on Rod for Picking Fruit
[Illustration]
The best apple is usually a little beyond reach, as every boy knows,
so I fitted a tin can, cut as shown in the sketch, to a pole and can
easily pick the apple that I want. The device is useful for picking
many varieties of fruit, and prevents damaging it by a fall. For
picking apples or other fruit from the upper branches of trees, where
it is almost impossible to reach by the use of a ladder, the tin-can
fruit picker is especially handy. The small sketch shows how the edges
of the can should be cut to afford the best grip on the stem, making it
possible to cut the twig from above or below.--T. A. Charles, Hamilton,
Ont.
The Shotgun and How to Use It
BY STILLMAN TAYLOR
PART I--How a Shotgun is Made
Hunting and fishing have always held the most important places in
the field of sport. Primitive man was an expert hunter and a skilled
fisherman. He had to be in order to secure food and skins, and while
but few men are now dependent upon this method of getting a living,
the call of the outdoor world is still heard by millions of men and
women. This, then, may be reckoned the inheritance which our primitive
ancestors have bequeathed to every man, and every man will find health
and recreation through it. It would be interesting to begin this
chapter at the start and set down the history of weapons, trace the
evolution of the hunting arm all the way from the bow down to the
modern hammerless shotgun, but as this is a practical article on how to
pick out a good gun and the knack of using it, only modern weapons will
be discussed. While the novice need not know the detailed process of
constructing a shotgun, he will find it an advantage to know something
of the way in which a serviceable weapon is manufactured, for with this
knowledge he is better qualified to pick out a suitable arm for his own
particular use.
[Illustration: The Side-Plate Lock Is a Development of the Old Hammer
Lock with Striker Inside]
The frame of a shotgun--that is, the part to one end of which the
barrels are affixed, the stock being bolted to the other--contains the
lock mechanism, and that the weapon may give the most satisfaction for
many years, the stock must be of good quality, of the exquisite temper,
and the bolting mechanism--securing the barrels to the frame--must be
simple, yet strong and serviceable. For the frame, a solid drop forging
is milled to make a shell into which the working mechanism is fitted,
and two types of frames are used in making the modern shotguns. The
side-plate lock is really a development of the old hammer lock, with
the striker inside. This lock is preferred by some shooters because
of its neat and graceful lines, and some manufacturers use this type
because it enables them to make use of a lighter frame.
[Illustration: The Box Type of Frame Likewise Has Its Champions and
Possesses Its Advantages]
[Illustration: The Cocking Hook Is an Ingenious Device, with Variations
Used on Different Makes of Arms]
The box type of frame likewise has its champions and possesses certain
advantages. Certainly it makes a strong and rigid frame, and for
inexpensive weapons it would be difficult to improve upon. While its
square, boxlike form is not graceful in line, it enables the maker to
use a spiral, or coil, spring instead of a flat spring for operating
the locks, which is an advantage. In brief, the merits of both types
may be summed up in this fashion: The use of the box type of lock
enables the maker to turn out a better quality of gun at a low price,
but in the case of a well-made gun, selling for a reasonable figure,
there is very little choice between them so far as dependability and
long service are concerned. Both are much used by manufacturers of the
finest weapons, hence the shooter may pick out the one which best suits
his fancy.
[Illustration: A Hammerless Gun with Roller Bearings to Overcome the
Short Leverage and Make It Open and Close Easily]
The Cocking Mechanism of the Hammerless
The locks of the hammerless shotgun work inside of the frame or
lock, and are cocked by an ingenious little mechanism operated by
the movement of the barrels when they are opened. The Anson & Deely
cocking mechanism is one of the oldest and best of these devices, and
is still used on many American as well as European arms. The levers
of this mechanism are hung with pivots in the end of the frame--one
end projecting into the fore end and the opposite end resting beneath
the hammer toe. As the gun is “broken,” or opened, it presses down the
forward end of the cocking lever, and the other end rises and pushes
the hammers into the cocked position. This is the principle upon which
all cocking devices are constructed, and while it works smoothly and is
so simple that it is not likely to get out of order, it is mechanically
weak, owing to the short frame required to secure adequate leverage.
Perhaps one of the best variations of the Anson & Deely device is one
employed by an American manufacturer who makes use of a rod running
through the frame from the fore end to the hammer. To each end of this
rod is attached a crank, so hung that as one crank is depressed the
other rises and pushes the hammer to the cock position as the barrels
are swung to open the gun.
[Illustration: A Lug is Forged on the End of Each Barrel, and When
Fitted Together They are Brazed]
The cocking hook is an ingenious device found on American shotguns
and many variations of it are, of course, used on the different makes
of arms. The Parker gun is provided with a hook working a slide, thus
pulling the hammers to cock. In the Baker, a bent arm is pivoted to the
breech to serve the same purpose. Another example of American ingenuity
may be noted in the lug-cocking devices used on the Ithaca and Fox
guns. This simple arrangement is made by connecting the toe of the
hammer directly with the lug, which is an integral part of the barrel.
The hammer is thus made to act as its own lever, for as the toe portion
rises when the barrel is opened, the striker falls back until it is
caught in the notch of the sear.
To guard against the possibility of accidental discharge of the
hammerless gun, in which type of gun the hammer must be always at full
cock, a safety trigger bolt is utilized. This bolt is affixed in the
frame in a vertical position by pivoting it, and to the upper part of
the lever is attached a slide placed on top of the tang immediately
back of the top lever which opens the barrels. As this safety slide
is pushed, the lower end of the lever is brought close up against the
triggers, blocking them, and thus prevents them from moving while the
safety is in the “on” position. To discharge the gun, the slide must be
pushed forward to the “off” position, which moves the lower end away
from the triggers. This type of safety is of the nonautomatic variety
and can only block the triggers when the slide is operated by the
shooter.
The automatic type of safety consists of a block, or bar, fitted in the
frame and extending from the safety bolt to the post of the top lever.
When the top lever is pushed to one side to open the barrels, this
block, or bar, pushes the safety bolt over the triggers, automatically
blocking them and preventing accidental discharge. The triggers must be
pressed to withdraw the automatic safety bar.
[Illustration: The Rotary Bolt, an American Invention, Is Strongest
Device Known for Locking the Barrels to the Frame]
To make the shotgun less likely to go off in the hands of the careless
gunner, the tumbler safety has been incorporated into the mechanism
of a few American weapons. The tumbler safety is a bar, automatically
operated by the triggers, and interposed between the strikers and
their firing pins. This device makes it impossible for the arm to be
discharged by the hammer jarring off when dropped, for the tumbler bar
occupies its position between the strikers and firing pins until the
triggers are pulled.
[Illustration: The Three-Bolt Mechanism Is One Form of the
Rotary-Bolting Principle Used by Many Gun Builders]
The practical value of both the automatic safety and the tumbler type
of bolt is questioned by practically all experienced gunners. Its
presence is designed to make the arm less dangerous in the hands of
careless and ignorant sportsmen. This it may serve to do, but since
there should be no excuse for tolerating the latter, most handlers
of the scatter gun fail to see the utility of the former. The novice
should lose no time in acquiring the knack of handling his chosen
weapon, and if he will but exercise a little care, he will find the
hand-operated safety quite sufficient, for he will not be troubled
through accidental discharge of his gun. By far the larger portion
of accidents occur through careless handling of the gun and by the
untimely pulling of the trigger, either by dragging the gun through the
brush or by nervousness, and it is impossible to make use of a safety
device to prevent the accidental discharge.
[Illustration: The Fore End Is an Extension of the Stock beyond the
Triggers and the Frame]
The Barrels of a Shotgun
Between 15 and 20 years ago shotgun barrels were made by combining
bars of iron and steel and welding them together to form barrels of
the proper diameter or bore. When these strips of metal were twisted
to make a spiral tube they were welded together to make the familiar
“twist,” “laminated,” and “Damascus” barrels. Sometimes three, four,
and five strips of iron and steel were twisted together to make the
“three-stripe,” “four-stripe,” and “five-stripe” Damascus barrels. This
old type of a barrel was strong and flexible, but being comparatively
soft, it was easily damaged by denting.
[Illustration: The Comparative Sizes of a 20-Gauge and a 12-Gauge
Repeating Shotgun]
The modern compressed-steel barrels are fashioned from solid drawn
steel, are very hard, will stand much higher pressure than the Damascus
type, and since the process of manufacture is simpler, a first-class
steel barrel may be produced at one-quarter the cost of the old type.
The several manufacturers have adopted trade names to distinguish the
various grades of steel barrels. Various trade names come from abroad,
and those of American manufacture are labeled “nitro-steel,” “armor
steel,” “high-pressure steel,” etc. While differences very likely exist
in the quality of the different barrels sold under the several names,
all the barrels used by reputable gun builders will be found amply
strong to resist any pressure exerted by ordinary charges of powder,
hence the cheaper guns are perfectly safe and will stand many years of
hard shooting.
Locking the Barrels to the Frame
In the early models of the breech-loader the barrels were locked to
the frame with a bolt operated by a lever placed under the fore end.
All modern guns have the top-lever action. In this device a “lump” is
fastened to the under side of the barrels near the breech, forming a
hinged joint to which the fore end is attached when fitting the barrel
and stock together. When closed, the breech end of the barrels is held
down to the action and tight up against the breech by a slide, or bolt,
which fits into the “lump” attached underneath the barrels. Different
makers use various forms of top-lever bolting devices, as the “hook
rib” or “extension rib,” otherwise known as the “doll’s head,” and the
cross bolt first used by Greener, the celebrated English gun builder.
All of these devices are satisfactory on a good grade of gun, but the
strongest mechanism is an American invention, known as the Smith rotary
bolt. This rotary bolt is tapered and is pushed through an opening in
the rib by means of a strong spring. Mechanically this locking device
is all that can be desired, and it cannot loosen through manipulation,
because of its compensating feature, that is, the spring forces the
bolt farther in as the bearings become worn through much service. Many
of our well-known builders use this splendid fastening.
Shotgun Stocks
Walnut is exclusively used for gunstocks, and the several grades are
termed plain American walnut, fine American walnut, English walnut,
selected English walnut, fine English walnut, Italian walnut, and
Circassian walnut. The plain American walnut is simply a common quality
of black walnut, oiled and varnished, and fitted on the cheaper guns.
Fine American walnut is of better quality, darker in color, and of
better grain. It is strong and durable, and when well oiled and
polished by hand, it makes a neat stock for the inexpensive gun. The
selected English walnut is of good color and with good grain. When
oiled and hand-polished it makes an attractive stock for the knockabout
gun. Fine English walnut is usually fitted to guns selling at a higher
price, and is generally made to order. Italian walnut is a dark wood
with a fine grain and is usually supplied to order on the finest guns.
Circassian walnut is the finest wood obtainable, of a rich dark color
and a fine curly grain. It is therefore expensive and only finished to
order and fitted to the most expensive guns.
The Fore End
The fore end is an extension of the stock beyond the triggers and frame
and affords a grip for the extended hand--protecting it from the hot
barrel--serves to lock the barrel to the frame, and likewise holds the
ejector mechanism. The Deely & Edge, and Snal fore ends are both used
on American guns, and they are so well designed and made that it is
practically impossible for the modern types to loosen even when the
arm has been subjected to long, hard service. Hence this detail of the
shotgun need not be considered when selecting an arm.
Self-Ejector Mechanism
Although a great many shooters do not use the self-ejector, this handy
device will many times prove of great value in the field, for when the
birds are coming fast and the shooter happens to score a miss, the
self-ejector throws out the empty shell and enables him to shove in
a fresh load to bring down the following bird. The nonejecting arm is
plenty good and quick enough for trap use, for when shooting “clays,”
plenty of time is given each man to reload between shots, but for
upland-bird and for duck shooting, the automatic ejector is a desirable
addition to the double-barreled gun.
Repeating and Automatic Shotguns
While a good double-barreled gun in the hands of the average shot
will very likely bag as many birds as the shooter is entitled to--and
it may be depended on to do this when fitted with a good automatic
ejector--many shooters prefer the repeating gun. The hand-operated,
sliding fore arm, trombone-action, or pump gun is so well-known that no
recommendation is needed. It will suffice to mention that it will do
everything that a double-barreled gun can perform, and considering that
every pump gun is self-ejecting, and its cost less than an equal grade
of double gun equipped with an ejecting device, it is not difficult
to understand its popularity. So far as accuracy is concerned, the
repeater will shoot rather more steadily than the double-barreled gun
in the hands of the average man, and after two shots have been fired,
there remain four more in the magazine. Rapid firing is not always an
advantage, of course, but when after ducks, the third shot is often
wanted in the interval that is required to load the double-barreled gun.
[Illustration: The Shells are Started About One-Quarter Inch in the
Regular Way Before the Ejector Kicks Them Out]
The automatic, or self-loading, shotgun is the logical development of
the repeater, and while its mechanism is necessarily more complicated,
it has some merits peculiarly its own. The devotee of the double barrel
is inclined to believe that the repeater and the automatic shotgun do
not balance so well as his favorite weapon, and the man who swears by
the pump gun is inclined to think that the automatic arm is balanced
like a club and prone to get out of order. Both factions can put up
plenty of argument to support their opinions, but to the unprejudiced
gunner, both the repeater and the self-loader will prove very fine
guns after the shooter has become familiar in handling them. The
double-barrel is a mighty fine gun, so is the repeater and again the
automatic; so let the gunner pick out the type he likes best.
[Illustration: The Automatic Ejector Mechanism Enables the Gunner to
Shove in a Fresh Load for the Following Bird]
[Illustration: A Self-Loading Shotgun in the Positions of the Action
Open and Closed]
How to Select a Shotgun
[Illustration: The Measurements are Taken of the Drop at the Comb and
Heel, and of the Stock from the Butt to the Forward Trigger]
That the shooter may not be handicapped by using a misfit gun, it is
well to make a selection at one of the larger dealers’ where guns of
various sizes, weights and lengths, as well as drops in stocks, may be
tried until one is found that fits the gunner the best. A good shot
can pick up almost any gun and do fairly accurate shooting with it,
but he can do better work with a gun fitting him properly. The chief
measurements of a gunstock are the length and drop of the stock, and
the drop and shape of the comb. The ordinary thickness of the grip
will suit the average hand, but in the case of unusually large or
small hands, this must be taken into consideration. For the average
man these measurements will probably be about right: Length of stock,
from forward trigger to center of butt plate, A-A, 14 to 14¹⁄₂ in.,
drop at comb, B-B, 1¹⁄₂ to 1⁷⁄₈ in., which will give corresponding
drop at the heel, C-C, from 2¹⁄₂ to 3 in. A fairly straight stock of
good length may be reckoned an advantage for trap shooting, but for
use in the field, a somewhat crooked stock with more drop at the comb,
say, 1⁵⁄₈ in. with 2⁵⁄₈-in. drop at the heel, will more fully meet the
average shooter’s idea of a well-balanced gun. However, as men differ,
and there are as many faces and eyes as there are men, every shooter
must decide this question for himself. So far as the circumference of
the grip is concerned, the size of the shooter’s hand and the length
of his fingers will decide this detail. For a small hand, a 7-in. grip
is about right, while a grip of 7¹⁄₂ in. will probably fit the large
hand well. The question of straight or pistol grip is purely a matter
of personal taste, for one is as good as the other so far as accurate
handling of the gun is concerned.
[Illustration: A Repeating Shotgun and the Position of Its Different
Parts When Cocked and After Firing]
The Gauge, or Size of Bore
The 10-gauge may be occasionally useful for long-range duck and goose
shooting, but for ordinary duck and upland use the 12-gauge is plenty
large enough. The larger the gauge the greater will be the killing
zone, and up to their ranges the small bores may, for all practical
purposes, be regarded as shooting quite as accurately and with as much
power as the heavier gauges, that is, the small bores will shoot to
kill if held correctly. The standard 12-gauge gun is fitted with 30-in.
barrels, weighs 7 to 8 lb., and the standard load for the field is 3
dr. of powder and 1¹⁄₈ oz. of shot. This gives a killing range up to
40 yd. The standard 16-gauge, with 30-in. barrels, weighs from 6¹⁄₂
to 7¹⁄₄ lb., and the standard load is 2¹⁄₂ dr. of powder and 1 oz. of
shot, with a killing range up to 35 yd. The standard 20-gauge, with
28-in. barrels, weighs from 5 to 6¹⁄₂ lb. and the standard load is 2¹⁄₄
dr. of powder and ⁷⁄₈ oz. of shot. Best killing range up to 30 yards.
For an all-purpose gun, suitable for wild fowling as well as upland
shooting, the 12-gauge is the best choice although the 16-gauge will be
found a hard-hitting weapon. For the good shot, the 20-gauge will prove
a fine little arm for upland work, only the gunner must shoot well
with the small bore to kill his bird clean. Contrary to the notion,
the large bore, not the small gauge, will bring the most game to the
novice’s bag.
Mission Candlestick
Even though a candlestick is one of the simplest of the smaller
household furnishings, it nevertheless can be made a very attractive
feature.
For the illustrated mission design, a base, 4 by 4 by ⁷⁄₈ in., should
be provided. This is cut, with the grain, for a ¹⁄₂-in.-wide groove,
¹⁄₄ in. deep and extending from one side to within ¹⁄₂ in of the
opposite side. In this groove is to fit the handle, which is made
from a piece of ¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₄ by 3³⁄₄-in. stock. It is provided with a
finger-grip hole ³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ in. at one end. Its upper edge should be
marked off from the center pedestal and fitted to it. The pedestal can
be made from stock 1⁷⁄₈ by 1⁷⁄₈ by 5 in. A tenon, ¹⁄₄ in. long by 1¹⁄₄
in. square, is formed on the lower end. This tenon is to fit a mortise
in the center of the base. A slot ¹⁄₂ in. wide is cut centrally in the
pedestal, and 2 in. above the lower end, to fit the handle. The upper
end of the pedestal is cut straight for ¹⁄₄ in. and squared off to 1¹⁄₈
in. This is to serve as a tenon to fit a corresponding mortise in the
¹⁄₂ by 2-in. square top. The sides of the pedestal are evenly tapered
off from the 1⁷⁄₈-in. square base to the lower end of the 1¹⁄₈-in.
square tenon, at the top.
[Illustration: Mission Candlestick of Pleasing Design, That will Appear
Well with Other Furniture of This Class]
The parts, before assembling, should be thoroughly sandpapered, as
considerable difficulty would otherwise be experienced. No nails or
screws need be used, as good glue will keep the parts together equally
well. When completely assembled, a hole should be drilled through the
top and into the pedestal, to fit the size of candle to be used. A
carefully applied mission stain and varnish will give a proper finish
to the candlestick.--Contributed by G. Crossley, Erie, Pa.
Pin Setter for the Home Tenpins
[Illustration: All the Tenpins are Quickly Set, and Each in Its Proper
Place]
Bowling with a set of small tenpins, which can be purchased at a
department store, is a very interesting game. The chief drawback,
however, is the setting of the pins. With a little rack like the one
shown in the illustration, the interest in the game may be increased
considerably. It not only helps in setting the pins rapidly, but
insures a good setting with the proper spacing between the pins. It is
very simple to make, as it consists of a triangular piece of wood with
ten holes bored into it at the proper places, the dimensions of which
will be governed by the size of the pins, and three supports. The pins
are dropped in the holes and the rack lifted from them.--Contributed by
F. K. Howard, Los Angeles, California.
Magically Naming a Written Card
This experiment consists in requesting anyone of a company of
spectators to name a card and write it on a piece of paper, whereupon
the performer instantly names the card written.
Two persons are necessary, the performer and his assistant. The
performer leaves the room while the spectator writes the name of the
card on the paper, the assistant supplying the paper and pencil. When
the name of the card is written, the paper is folded by the spectator
and handed to the assistant with the pen or pencil. The assistant lays
the pencil and paper on a table in certain positions to designate
the name of the card. Previous to this test, the performer and the
assistant must have the positions of the paper and pencil mentally
fixed in their minds. Referring to the sketch, the four sides of the
table represent the card suits, viz., spades, hearts, clubs, and
diamonds; and an imaginary circle divided into twelve parts indicates
the number of the card, 1 standing for ace, 2 for deuce, and so on.
[Illustration: The Markings are Memorized so That Only Positions of
Pencil and Paper will be Seen]
The assistant, knowing what has been written on the paper, places the
paper to indicate the suit, and the pencil is laid so that it points
to the number on the imaginary circle, or dial. The one shown in the
sketch is designating the four of hearts.
Dry-Cleaning Mixture
An emulsion of gasoline and water is much used by dry cleaners for
removing grease, tar, and paint spots from clothing. It is in the form
of a thick, white sirup, which evaporates entirely and is not injurious
to any fabric or color. The directions for preparing this emulsion
should be followed out carefully.
Dissolve, in 1 qt. of boiling water, ¹⁄₂ oz. of pure castile soap, and
¹⁄₄ oz. of gum arabic. Allow this to cool, and then add 1 oz. glycerin,
1 oz. strong aqua ammonia, 1¹⁄₂ oz. chloroform, and 2 oz. sulphuric
ether. Shake well, and pour enough of the mixture into a quart bottle
to fill it for ³⁄₄ in. On top of this, pour not more than ¹⁄₄ in. of
gasoline, and shake until creamy. Repeat the addition of gasoline,
shaking each time, until full. The cleaning mixture will then be ready
for use, and may be applied with a rag, or small brush.
If, on adding the first lot of gasoline and shaking, the mixture does
not become emulsified, it proves that too much gasoline has been added.
In this case, allow it to stand for a few minutes, and pour off the
excess gasoline which comes to the top. Shake well, and add a smaller
quantity of gasoline. When the bottle is half full, larger quantities
of gasoline may be added at a time.
It is interesting to note that the more gasoline is added, the thicker
the emulsion becomes, and if the addition of gasoline and shaking is
prolonged, a semisolid jelly is formed, which will not run from a
bottle.--Contributed by H. E. Zschiegner, Wellsville, N. Y.
Locking Window Sash
[Illustration]
An excellent lock for window sash is to use two small, but strong,
hinges one fastened on each side of the top sash close to the upper
edge of the lower sash. This allows one wing of each hinge to swing
freely which permits it to be swung over the upper edge of the lower
sash, locking both securely. In placing the hinges in this position,
they are out of sight and not in the way.
[Illustration: THE SHOTGUN
AND HOW TO USE IT
BY Stillman Taylor
PART II--The Choke and Pattern of a Gun]
Having picked out a gun that “fits the man,” the matter of choke and
pattern should be considered. For trap shooting and for wild fowling,
the full-choke gun may be considered a necessity, since it will throw
the charge of shot within a relatively small circle; in other words,
make a denser pattern. Chokeboring is accomplished by constricting
the barrel at the muzzle from ¹⁄₂₅ to ¹⁄₅₀ in., the amount of taper
depending on the size of the bore and gauge. The narrowing of the
muzzle forces the charge of shot together and prevents the pellets
from scattering over a wide area. Guns are bored with varying degrees
of choke, from the full to the plain cylinder, and the manufacturers
compare them by recording the number of pellets which any given choke
will shoot in a 30-in. circle at 30 yd., or any other range selected as
the maximum distance. This gives the pattern from which we find that
the full choke produces 70 per cent, the half choke 60 per cent, the
quarter choke 50 per cent, and the cylinder 30 per cent.
For trap shooting and wild fowling the expert considers it essential
that his 12-gauge should be capable of throwing not less than 300
pellets; hence he selects a full-choked gun with a pattern of 300 or
better. As a full-choked 16-gauge will pattern about 275, it may be
used for ducks with good success. For a general-purpose gun, a pattern
from 250 to 275 will prove quite satisfactory for ducks and upland
game, and this may be had by picking out a half-choked 12-gauge, or
selecting a full-choked 16-gauge. The 20-gauge gives a pattern of about
245 shot, and thus scatters its charge over too large a circle to prove
effective on wild fowl, although it is very effective on upland game,
which is flushed not over 35 yd. from the shooter. A gun patterning
from 225 to 250 may be considered the ideal upland gun, and this may
be had by choosing a quarter-choked 12-gauge, a half-choked 16-gauge,
or a full-choked 20-gauge gun. These are known as “open-choked” guns,
are the most effective at short ranges, up to 35 yd., and cannot be
depended upon to kill clean when used at longer ranges.
Shooting with Both Eyes Open
To handle the weapon well is the desire of every sportsman, and this
knack is not difficult to attain, providing the novice will make a good
beginning. First of all, it is necessary to hold the gun correctly, and
while the forward hand may grip the fore end at any convenient point,
a well extended arm gives a better control of the gun when aiming, by
giving free play to all the muscles of the arm; hence the gun should be
held in a manner natural to the shooter, rather than in imitation of
the style of another.
The old manner of aiming the shotgun by closing one eye and sighting
along the rib is fast becoming obsolete, for better shooting may be
done by keeping both eyes open. Doctor Carter was the first great
exponent of binocular shooting, and while but few men can hope to
approach this famous gunner’s skill, every one can learn to handle
a shotgun more quickly and with greater accuracy by following his
common-sense method. It may appear a bit strange at first to disregard
the sights and keep both eyes open, and aim the gun by merely pointing
it in the desired direction, but to sight along the rib and attempt
to see the bead on the muzzle end can only make a slow and poky shot.
This old-fashioned method may be good enough for making patterns on a
stationary target, but it is not much of a success for wing shooting.
For fine rifle shooting the left eye is invariably closed for target
work, but for snap-shooting both eyes are kept open, the sights are
disregarded, and the aim is taken by pointing the gun at the object to
be hit. Of course, there are many good gunners who shoot with one eye
closed, but the novice who is anxious to become a good wing shot should
make it a point to practice with both eyes open. Vision is always
clearer, and the objects more accurately judged with both eyes open
than with one, and when this is done, and one eye controls the line
of aim, the shooter is not so likely to make mistakes in estimating
the distances and the rapidity of the flight of his game. In shooting,
the right eye naturally governs the right shoulder, and vice versa,
and this is so because habit has trained the eye to do this. To find
which is the master eye, hold a pencil out at arm’s length and point
it at some small distant object with both eyes open, then close the
left eye, and if the pencil still points to the object, the right eye
controls the vision, and is the master eye. Should the closing of the
left eye alter the aim, the right eye must be trained by practice
until it becomes the master eye, or else the gun must be shot from
the left shoulder, which is many times more difficult. The modern way
of mastering wing shooting is to point the gun where both eyes are
looking, and after a little practice this may be done quickly, and the
charge thrown more accurately at the object than by closing one eye, or
sighting along the barrel in the old manner.
The Knack of Hitting a Flying Target
When shooting at clay targets, or at a flying bird, allowance must be
made for the swiftness of flight and the distance from the shooter to
the game, or in other words, the shooter must calculate the speed of
the flying target and allow the probable time it will take for the shot
to reach its mark. To make a quick snap shot at the flying target,
the gun may be directly thrown at the mark and discharged as quickly
as possible, or the gun may cover the mark and be quickly swung ahead
and the charge sent at the point where the swiftly moving bird will be
found when the shot gets there. Snap-shooting is only possible when the
birds are flying straight away or quartering, and as the shooter fires
point-blank at the rapidly moving bird, the shot must be delivered so
rapidly that only a very quick and responsive trigger and a fast man
back of it can hope to score even a fair percentage of hits. A more
certain way of aiming a snap shot is to throw up the barrel below
the bird, then rapidly swing it to the proper elevation ahead of the
moving target, and throw the shot at the point where the line of the
aim and the flight of the bird intersect. For shots at quail, woodcock,
and partridge in the brush, the quick snap shot often must be taken,
regardless of the chances of missing, for to delay even a second will
lose the bird. When a bird rises near the shooter, no allowance of lead
or elevation are required, and the charge is thrown directly at the
bird.
The rapid swing, however, is the most accurate manner of using the
shotgun, at all angles and at any distance within the killing zone
of the weapon. To make this shot, the gun must be thrown up behind
the bird and then rapidly swung ahead of it, throwing the charge
without checking the swing of the arm. In this style of snap-shooting,
the elevation of the gun must be identical with the flight of the
bird, inasmuch as the gun follows it, and if the gun is swung about
three times as fast as the bird is traveling, plenty of allowance for
the time necessary to press the trigger and deliver the shot at the
determined point will be made.
To swing deliberately and cover the bird with the sight, then shove the
gun ahead to give the proper lead, is all right for duck shooting where
the game is usually seen approaching and thus remains within range for
a longer time. But this deliberate style of handling the gun is far too
slow for the uplands, and since the rapid swing is the only accurate
manner of cutting down the fast bird, and usually useful for wild
fowling, the novice should confine his practice to this practical style
of wing shooting.
Stationary-Target Practice
The first great mistake the novice is likely to make is the natural
one of supposing that he must take his gun to the field and learn how
to handle it by practicing at flying game. This is by no means the
best method, and there is scarcely a poorer way of becoming a wing
shot, because the gunner is intent upon bagging the game and forgets
to observe the many little points of gunnery, shooting high and low,
and making the hundred and one mistakes of judgment he would not be
guilty of when practicing at a stationary mark. Snap and wing shooting
is the last word in shotgun handling, requiring quickness in throwing
the gun, as well as a trained eye to calculate the distance from and
the speed of the flying target. To acquire confidence in using the
gun, begin by shooting at a fixed mark. A good target may be made by
obtaining a dozen, or two, sheets of stout wrapping paper and painting
a 4-in. circle in the center of each sheet. Tack it up on a board fence
or on a board hung on a tree, measure off 60 ft., and try a shot.
The shot will not spread very much at this short range, and it will
be an easy matter to determine the result of your skill in holding a
dead-on to the large mark. To avoid flinching and other movements of
the head and body, caused by the recoil, begin your first practicing
with a light powder-and-shot charge, say, about 2 dr. of bulk measure,
or its equivalent in smokeless, and ⁷⁄₈ oz. of No. 8 or 9 shot. There
is no advantage in using a heavier charge, and the recoil of the gun
will appear much greater in deliberate shooting at a target than is
likely to be felt during the excitement incidental to shooting in the
field. A dozen shots at these targets will enable the gunner to make
a good score by deliberate holding, and when this can be done without
flinching, snap and wing shooting may begin.
[Illustration: The Forward Hand may Grip the Fore End at Any Point, but
a Well-Extended Arm Gives a Better Control of the Gun]
Snap and Wing Shooting
The object which the gunner should now strive for is to train the eye,
hand, and gun to work in unison, and to do this, bring the gun quickly
to the shoulder, point it to the mark, and press the trigger without
stopping the upward and even swing of the barrels. At the first few
trials some difficulty may be encountered with the pressing of the
trigger at the proper moment, but a little practice will soon tell
how to time the shots. Note the phrase, “press the trigger,” for the
trigger is not pulled by the forefinger alone, but rather pressed
by closing both hands, the forward hand on the fore end pushing and
closing, and the hand grasping the stock being drawn back and squeezed
at the same instant. This is easily done, but rather hard to picture.
After a few trials with an empty gun, the novice will see the point,
and also discover the fact that the recoil of the arm is much lessened
by this proper grip of the weapon.
Confine the first practice in snap-shooting to throwing the gun to the
shoulder, and when proficient in hitting the mark, try a snap shot by
swinging the gun from the side, right to left and also left to right.
Do not attempt to check the even swing of the gun, but rather let the
barrels swing past the mark, concentrating the mind upon pressing the
trigger the instant the line of aim covers the mark. Practice swinging
slowly, and after being able to hit the mark with the center of the
charge pretty regularly, increase the speed of the swing. In doing
this, it will be discovered that the speed of pressing the trigger
must also be increased to balance the speed of the moving barrel, and
very likely it will be found that the natural tendency is to press the
trigger a bit late. This is the common mistake which practically every
novice makes when in the field, although the error is likely to pass
unnoticed when after game.
[Illustration: SWING GUN ACROSS TARGET AS INDICATED BT ARROWS AND SHOOT
IN PASSING
SHOOT AT BOTH TARGETS ON EACH SWING
Train the Eye, Hand, and Gun to Work in Unison, by Bringing the Gun
Quickly to the Shoulder, Pointing It at the Mark, and Pulling the
Trigger without Stopping the Motion of the Barrels]
As the gunner acquires proficiency in swinging the gun from side to
side, try swinging the gun at different angles, changing the angle
of the swing with each shot, from right to left and upward, at an
oblique angle upward, and so on, until it is possible to hit the mark
with a fair certainty from a variety of angles. When trying out the
several swings, one should always begin slowly and increase the speed
of the swing as he becomes more expert, only making sure to shoot
by calculation and not by guess. The manner of acquiring expertness
sounds easy and is comparatively easy, and, as it is the backbone of
snap-shooting, improvement will be rapid if the novice is willing to
practice slowly and master each detail in turn. Do not make the mistake
of overdoing the thing at the outset by shooting too long at a time. A
box of 25 loads is ample for a day’s practice, since it is not how much
one shoots, but how well, that counts.
Snap-Shooting at Moving Targets
When the gunner has reached the point where he can hit the stationary
target by swinging his gun both fast and slow, he has acquired better
control of the weapon than many old shooters, and he is well prepared
to take up snap-shooting at flying or moving targets. The access to a
gun club where clay birds may be shot at, will prove of much value,
but this is not absolutely necessary, since tin cans, bits of brick,
and bottles, thrown in the air at unknown angles by a companion, will
afford the needed variety. Better than this is one of the inexpensive
“hand traps” which project the regulation clay targets by means
of a powerful spring worked by a trigger. One of the large powder
manufacturers makes a trap of this kind, and a very good trap can be
had for $1.50. The standard clay targets cost about $2.50 a barrel of
500. Practice of this sort may be made a very interesting and highly
instructive sport, providing the targets are projected from different
and unexpected angles, thus simulating the many-angled flight of the
live bird.
Value of Second Barrel in Shooting
The use of the second barrel should not be overlooked in practicing
with the idea of becoming an all-around wing shot, for the second shot
is often needed to kill a cripple, or bring down a bird which has been
missed with the first shot. Two-shot practice should begin by placing
two paper targets about 20 ft. apart, then shooting at the first one
and continuing to swing the gun to cover the second target. Practice
swinging from various angles as directed for the initial practice,
increasing the speed of the swing as proficiency is gained, and fail
not to profit by the mistakes which must inevitably occur to all who
try to master the shotgun. After a reasonable amount of practice,
conducted along these lines, the gunner may venture afield, and if his
acquaintance includes an old seasoned sportsman who will point out the
mistakes made, much may be learned regarding the knack of handling the
gun, as well as relating to the haunts and habits of our wild game
birds.
Cleaning and Care of the Gun
A good shotgun is a thoroughly reliable and dependable weapon, but as
with all tools of the sportsman’s craft, the best results can only be
had when the arm is in good condition. It is gun wisdom always to clean
the weapon after a day’s shooting, and the amateur should make it a
positive rule never to put his gun away until it is cleaned. The sooner
firearms are cleaned after the firing the better, and if cleaned before
the burnt powder has had time to corrode the steel, much future trouble
is saved. In cleaning the barrels, never rest the muzzle against the
floor. If a rest is needed, use an old piece of carpet or a bundle of
rags. Clean from the breech end only, as any slight dust, or burr, at
the muzzle will greatly impair the shooting qualities of any firearm.
Never use a wire-wheel scratchbrush, as it will scratch the polished
steel; a soft brass-wire cleaner is the only suitable implement for
this work. There are several good cleaners to be had. For removing any
rust deposits, a brass brush may be used, while for ordinary cleaning,
plenty of cloth should be run through the barrels, taking care that it
touches every part of the interior. This is easily done by rotating the
cleaning rod as it is pushed through the barrel from the breech to the
muzzle. When putting the gun away, the barrels should be stopped, at
the breech and muzzle, with tightly fitting corks, or gun ropes may be
run through the barrels after soaking them in some good oil. To prevent
rusting, cover the metal, outside as well as inside the barrels, by
smearing on a little heavy lubricating oil. Slip covers of chamois are
often used to protect the stock and barrels before putting them in the
leather case, but stout woolen covers are better, since chamois is
likely to absorb more or less moisture.
The mechanism of a gun is not exactly complicated, but the novice had
better leave well enough alone and not attempt to dismount the locks
or tinker with the mechanism. The modern steel barrel is very hard
and not easily dented, but if so injured, it is better to ship it to
the factory for repairs than to trust it to the crude methods of the
average gun repairman.
A gun should be given ordinary good care, and this is not forthcoming
if one makes a practice of opening it and letting the barrels drop
down with a bang. Snapping the triggers on an empty barrel is likewise
foolish. If one desires to practice trigger pressing, put a couple of
empty shells in the barrels.
If one owns a good-grade shotgun, the stock is probably finished in oil
and hand-rubbed to a nice, durable polish. On cheap arms the varnish is
usually employed to give an attractive finish in the store. Of course,
this varnish will scratch, and otherwise come off, and spoil the
appearance of the arm. If a good finish is wanted, do not re-varnish
the stock, but remove all the old varnish by using a little varnish
remover, and rub down with oil. For an extra-fine polish, wet the wood
to raise the grain; rub down with very fine sandpaper; wet the wood
again, and sandpaper a second or a third time; then rub down with oil
until the wood is saturated with it, and polish with a cloth, using
plenty of pressure, and the stock will be as fine in appearance as if
it had the “London oil finish” supplied with all high-grade guns.
Brass Machine Screws with Nuts
[Illustration]
When small brass machine screws and threaded nuts to fit them are
needed in small devices, or for experimental work, and the necessary
taps and dies are not at hand, secure some old brass globe holders and
cut out the threaded hole for the nut. The fastening-screw arrangement
on these will answer every purpose very well. Enough metal can be left
on each one to fasten it on wood, as shown at A, or they can be cut, as
shown at B, if they are to be soldered to metal.
Snapper-Shell Ash Tray
[Illustration]
An odd and unusual ash tray can be made from a snapping-turtle shell.
Four brass, or wood, balls or knobs, secured with screws, as shown,
will keep it balanced. The exact points to place the supports under the
tray will have to be determined by experiment, as no two shells are of
exactly the same shape.
A Portable Fire Screen
The fire screen illustrated can be constructed at very small expense.
In brief, the screen consists of a light metal frame surrounding three
pieces of ¹⁄₈-in. sheet asbestos. The frames inclosing the asbestos
pieces are hinged together, as shown in Fig. 1, with special hinges
made to meet the requirements.
The asbestos comes in sheets 40 in. square, and this size determines
the outside dimensions of the screen. The size of the different
sections can, of course, be changed if such a change will better suit
the existing needs. By making the screen in sections it may be folded
up and thus occupy much less space, and when in use, the sections, by
placing them at an angle to each other, serve the purpose of legs,
which would be required if the screen were in one straight piece.
The dimensions and form of the outer portions of the frame are given in
Fig. 2, and those of the inner portions, or edges, where the hinges are
attached, are given in Fig. 3. The joining edges of the frames are made
wider than the others for the reason that some of the metal is cut away
where the hinges are attached. These frames may be made from heavy tin
or galvanized iron, and it will be a simple matter for a tinner to bend
them into shape. After all these pieces are bent, fit them together
at the corners, making sure that they clamp tightly on the asbestos
sheets, as these help to hold the frame in shape. Drill a small hole
in each of the corners and provide a small round-head rivet of proper
length for each of the holes. The vertical portions of the frame should
be placed inside of the horizontal, or end, pieces at the corners.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
Fire Screen Made of Sheet Asbestos Inclosed in Thin Metal Frames Hinged
Together]
Make four pieces of brass having the form and dimensions given in Fig.
4. Two ¹⁄₈-in. holes are drilled in each of these pieces as indicated.
Slots are cut in the inner edges of the frames of such dimensions as
will accommodate these brass pieces. The location of these slots is
given in Fig. 1. Obtain eight pieces of ¹⁄₈-in. steel rod, about 2 in.
long. Place the ends of the brass pieces in the slots in the inner
frame and then put the rods through the holes in the ends of them and
solder the ends of the rods to the inside of the frames. Make sure that
there is no solder run in between the rod and piece of brass, as this
will prevent the hinge from operating freely. After the hinges are in
place, the frames are riveted together. Notches are cut in the edges of
the asbestos sheets at the location of the hinges to allow the latter
free movement. The sections of the screen may be made very rigid by
placing a number of small rivets around the inner edges of the frame to
hold it tightly against the asbestos. The asbestos may be given a coat
of bronze, or be otherwise decorated for appearance.
Tossing a Card at a Mark Accurately
[Illustration: Tossing Cards Accurately so That They will Fall into a
Receptacle Set at a Distance]
There is an interesting old game that can be played instead of
solitaire. It consists in trying to toss the greatest number of cards
into a small basket or an upturned stiff hat, set at a distance. If the
cards are held as shown at A, and tossed as at B, they may be thrown
with surprising accuracy.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
A Sanitary Drinking Tube
[Illustration]
To make this tube, procure a piece of ³⁄₄-in. gauge glass, about 10 in.
long, and bend it by heating the glass with a blowtorch 2¹⁄₂ in. from
one end, as shown. If this is done in a place where no air will strike
the glass while it is heated and the tube is then allowed to cool
slowly, it will not crack. It is used by putting the short end under
the faucet and drawing on it as on a pipe.
A Comb Cleaner
[Illustration: The Twisted Wires Form an Excellent Device for Cleaning
a Comb]
A very handy device for cleaning combs can be made from a piece of
spring sheet brass, 4¹⁄₂ in. long and about 3 in. wide. Notches are
cut in the ends of the brass with a hacksaw, making the projections as
wide as the saw cut. The brass is then bent into shape with a special
clamp made for the purpose, which consists of three pieces of wood, two
being cut to form a curved slot, then fastened to the third piece. The
brass is sprung into the slot, and then fine wire is stretched between
the ends in the notches. The wire should be very fine and two strands
twisted together and run through the notches.
Concealing the House Key
The time-honored custom of concealing the house key under the door mat,
or in the letter box, when the family has not enough keys to go around,
is so well known that an unauthorized person seeking to enter the house
would look in these places first of all.
[Illustration]
A simple and effective hiding place for the key can be quickly and
easily made with the aid of an auger and two pieces of tin. Pick out an
obscure section of the porch railing, and in the edge of this bore a
³⁄₄-in. hole, about ¹⁄₄ in. deeper than the length of the key. Make a
piece of tin into a cylinder, the same length as the key, so that the
latter will slide easily into the hole. At one end of this cylinder
solder a 1-in. disk of tin, which will make it appear as in the
illustration.
If the key is placed in the cylinder and the latter pushed into the
hole until it is flush with the surface, it will scarcely be noticed
by anyone not in the secret, and by painting it the same color as the
railing it will become still more inconspicuous.--Contributed by Frank
L. Matter, Portland, Ore.
A Mysterious Watch
[Illustration]
A very interesting experiment may be made with the ordinary dollar
watch in illustrating the law of the pendulum. A pendulum 39.1 in.
long will make 60 one-way swings per minute, the number of swings
varying inversely as the square root of the length. By actual count
it was found that the balance wheel of the watch in question made 240
one-way swings per minute, which is just 4 times as fast as the 39-in.
pendulum. Therefore, according to the foregoing law, a pendulum ¹⁄₁₆
as long, or about 2¹⁄₂ in., would swing in unison with the wheel of
the watch. The question then arises as to what would happen if the
watch itself were suspended so as to swing as a pendulum of the latter
length. The experiment was made as illustrated, with the result that
the watch keeps on swinging continuously. The swing amounts to about
³⁄₈ in., and appears so vigorous that it is almost incomprehensible
that the small spring in a watch should be able to maintain so much
weight in continuous motion for 24 hours.
[Illustration: Bait Casting for Game Fish
by Stillman Taylor]
There are many enjoyable phases of the fisher’s art, but bait casting
from the free reel probably has a wider appeal than any other branch
of angling. The pleasure of handling a short bait-casting rod is in
itself a good sport, even when casting done in the back yard is made
for distance and accuracy only. Get two or three enthusiastic casters
together, and you may have an interesting little tournament, held on
a vacant lot, on the lake, or on the greensward of a city park. There
is plenty of action in casting from the reel, and it is its variety
that has made angling of this type so universally popular. True,
considerable practice is required before the caster is able to shoot
an accurate plug far off, but the knack may be gained after reasonable
application. The handling of the short rod differs from all other
angling methods--it is an active sport rather than a contemplative
recreation--and when the fun of handling a good outfit is combined with
the sport of coaxing out a black bass, shooting a wooden minnow among
the lily pads for pickerel, or casting the bait for those pirates of
our fresh-water lakes, the wall-eyed pike and the muskellunge, the
angler gets a taste of fishing--plus.
The Outfit and Its Selection
A good firearm is necessary to the good marksman and a well-made,
nicely balanced rod, to which is clamped a smooth-running reel, is the
essential equipment of an able angler. Bait casting is, of course,
more a matter of skill than of outfit, but that is no reason why the
angler should be handicapped by poor tackle, although large expenditure
is not necessary in obtaining a satisfactory outfit. The casting rod
may be from 5 to 6 ft. long. Where the caster regards length of cast
as the important factor, the 5-ft. length will probably give the best
satisfaction. However, the superiority of one over the other in this
regard is rather to be found in the elasticity and quality of the rod
than its length. The skill of the caster is, moreover, the ruling
factor. The 5¹⁄₂-ft. rod is better than the 5-ft. length for fishing
purposes, and the 6-ft. rod is more resilient than the 5¹⁄₂-ft. tip. If
the greatest range is not of more importance than the landing of the
fish, the longer rod will prove the most pleasant to handle.
The split-bamboo rod has many friends, and a well-made rod of this
material is a thoroughly satisfactory casting tool. A fine-quality
casting rod of split bamboo costs from $10 to $25. A fairly good rod
may be bought for $2 or a trifle less, and a smooth-running reel for
another $2, while a line for it will bring the total up to about $5. An
outfit of this kind purchased with discrimination, while not embodying
everything that a critical angler would desire, will cast a long and
accurate line and stand up under the strain of handling our heaviest
game fish. The one-piece rod is classed by many anglers as the ideal
casting rod. The two-piece rod is handier to pack and is more generally
used.
The chief fault in bait-casting rods is the stiff action of the tip
section. For tournament casting, a fairly stiff rod is desirable. The
same requirement holds good for muskellunge and other heavy fishing.
A flexible rod affords more pleasure in playing black bass and other
active “gamey” fish. However, the best way to test out a rod is by
casting with it.
[Illustration: A Serviceable Reel Costing $4, a High-Grade Reel Costing
$13.50, and a Fine Tournament Casting Reel Costing $26, are Shown
from Left to Right. The Center One Has a Level-Winding Device and a
Thumb-Click Drag on the Rims of the Plates. The Tournament Casting Reel
Has a Cork Arbor and Jeweled Bearings]
The steel casting rod is well liked by some casters, but only a
high-quality steel rod is worthy of consideration. It is generally not
classed as the equal of a well-made solid-wood or split-bamboo rod,
for casting. The better-grade steel rod is springy and flexible, and
for this reason is a good rod for casting for black bass. Still, most
anglers have a steel rod in their outfits, but it is not as generally
used at tournaments as the time-tried wooden rod.
The guide is an important detail of a casting rod. Inexpensive rods are
usually provided with large metal guides, while the better rods are
fitted with agate guides, or with agate tip and hand guides. A guide,
¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, at the butt of the rod is large enough and will
handle the line smoothly.
The single grip is sometimes preferred by casters, but the additional
grip placed above the reel is desirable if much fishing is done.
Solid-cork hand grasps are most satisfactory, being less slippery when
wet and less tiring to the hand than handles made of other materials.
If the lower grip is properly shaped with a forward edge, the
forefinger will find a firm grip upon it, and the finger hook will not
be needed. However, some anglers prefer to use the hook, and if the rod
is not so fitted, a detachable hook may be fastened to it. A reel band
that locks securely is desirable, and all the better grades of casting
rods are so fitted.
The quadruple reel is the logical choice of the bait caster, the spool
turning four times to one turn of the handle. As the work demanded of
a bait-casting reel is different and more exacting than that of the
click reel used in fly casting, its design is radically different. The
best type of click reel is of large spool diameter and narrow between
plates, while the typical casting reel is its direct opposite--being
long-barreled, with plates of comparatively small diameter. For
tournament casting the finest outfit will naturally be selected, but
for practical work it is unnecessary to pay $25 for a finely wrought
reel. Three typical reels are shown in the illustration. The one at
the left holds 80 yd. of line, can be easily taken apart for cleaning,
and costs $4. In the center is a level-winding reel with thumb click
and adjustable drag placed on the rims of the plates. It holds 60 yd.
of line, and costs $13.50. At the right is a very high-grade reel for
tournament casting. It has a cork arbor, jeweled bearings holds 60 yd.
of line, and costs $26.
Any of the better grades of braided silk are suitable for the
bait-casting line. The average price for a dependable line is about $1
for 50 yd. A small size line is best, and sizes G and E are preferred.
A brown and green, or other dark-colored, line is preferable for
fishing. The black and white, all white and other light-colored, lines
are satisfactory for tournament use. After a day’s fishing the line
should be unreeled and looped around the back of a chair in loose coils
to dry, or loosely wound upon a drying reel.
For practice and tournament casting one of the standard ¹⁄₄ and ¹⁄₂-oz.
loaded wooden or metal plugs may be used. The popularity of bait
casting from the reel has brought forth a large variety of artificial
baits. These wooden and enameled lures are used by anglers because they
bring the catches.
The wooden minnows, and other forms of artificial bait, may be roughly
classed in three divisions: the surface lures for use on top of the
water; the diving and under-water baits; and the weedless varieties,
which are usually of the surface type. No bait caster’s outfit is
complete unless it includes one bait of each class, and to meet fully
the different and varying conditions of weather, season, and water,
it is a good plan to select one of each type in light and medium-dark
colors. A variety of typical baits are shown in the page plate at
A, B, C, etc. Many of the baits are provided with one or more eyes
for attaching the line, thus enabling the caster to spin his bait at
different depths. All of the wooden-body baits will float, and only
dive under the surface when reeled in; the quicker they are retrieved
the deeper they spin. While many of these baits have been designed
especially to entice the black bass, practically all of them are good
for pickerel and general fresh-water casting, particularly the minnow
baits.
The other items which complete the bait caster’s outfit are the landing
net and tackle box. The net should be well made, with a steel hoop 13
in. or larger in diameter, and should have a handle about 3 ft. long.
The folding type of net is the most convenient, and is provided with
a separate handle. The tackle box may be of sheet metal or leather,
with partitions for holding reels, baits, and the angling “what not.” A
convenient and serviceable landing net costs $1 or more, and a tackle
box will cost about as much.
Suggestions on Making the Cast
Although much practice is required before the caster can take his place
in a tournament, “getting the hang” of handling the short rod and
free-running reel comes quickly. As soon as the simple principles are
understood, length and accuracy will come only through practice. Bait
casting is easier than fly casting and the angler need concern himself
only with the length and accuracy of his cast, since delicacy does not
enter into this phase of fishing. The coarser sweet-water fish, like
black bass and pickerel, are not frightened when the bait hits the
water with a splash--indeed, the splash of the bait attracts them.
Two methods of casts are used by bait casters, the overhead and the
underhand or side cast. The overhead cast is used largely by the
practical angler, as well as by those who take part in tournament
contests, because the bait is projected a longer distance and may be
more accurately placed. If the novice will thumb the line, as shown
in Fig. 1, with thumb bearing directly on the cross rod of the reel
with the ball of the thumb resting lightly on the line, one or two
trials will show the correct manner of spooling. The line is retrieved
as shown in Fig. 2, care being taken to form correct habits from the
start. To make the cast, reel in the bait until it is some 6 in. from
the tip, release the click or drag, and press the ball of the thumb
firmly upon the spooled line. Carry the rod over the shoulder until it
is horizontal or nearly so, as in Fig. 3, and then bring it smartly
forward, checking it quickly when it reaches an angle of some 45°, as
shown in Fig. 4. This projects the bait forward in a straight line.
When the rod is brought forward the tension of the thumb on the spool
is released so that the spool will revolve freely, but enough pressure
must be communicated by the thumb to prevent the reel from spinning
faster than the line is unreeled from the spool, otherwise backlash
will occur. The use of the whole arm and the weight of the body,
combined with the elasticity of the pliant rod, enables the caster to
cover a surprisingly long distance after a little practice. A distance
of 150 ft. is not difficult to attain, but for fishing, a well-placed
cast of 60 or 75 ft. is long enough to reach promising stretches of
water.
[Illustration:
A
FIG. 3
B
The Method of Thumbing the Line is Shown in Figure 1, and the Correct
form in Retrieving the Line, in Figure 2. The Overhead Cast is
Illustrated in Figures 3 and 4, and the Underhand or Side Cast in
Figures 5 and 6
C
D
FIG. 4
FIG. 1
E
F
FIG. 2
FIG. 5
Typical Baits:
A, Under-Water Minnow;
B, Wabbler Spoon;
C, Bass;
D, Fluted Wabbler;
E, Weedless;
F, Diving;
G, Combination Color, Taste, and Smell;
H, Spoon and Minnow Bass;
I, Surface
G
H
FIG. 6
I]
The underhand or side cast is somewhat easier to master, and is made
much in the same way as the overhead cast, only the rod is swung
horizontally to the rear, the tip on a level with the angler’s chest,
as shown in Fig. 5. Bring the rod forward smartly in the direction it
is desired to shoot the bait, check the rod when about horizontal,
partly releasing the pressure of the thumb, just enough to allow the
spool to revolve freely, and check the line as the bait hits the water.
Figure 5 shows the beginning of the side cast and Fig. 6 the cast
completed. This cast is useful when fishing from a shore overhung with
trees, and with practice the bait may be projected a long distance.
The chief factor of skill in bait casting from the reel lies in
controlling the line, and the thumb must be trained to do this through
practice. Some casters turn the reel sideways with the handle downward
while making the cast, but the majority keep the reel level and cast
with it in the same position as when reeling in. Thumbing the line is
easiest done when the spool is well filled, and if the casting line
is not long enough to do this, sufficient common line should be first
wound on to fill it.
The successful bait caster is one who possesses an intimate knowledge
of the fish he casts for, and while a lengthy exposition is not to
form a part of this article, reference to the fish commonly sought by
the caster will not be amiss. The fish generally of interest to the
bait caster are small and large-mouth black bass, pike, muskellunge,
and pickerel. The small-mouth black bass is classed as the finest game
fish, ounce for ounce, by many casters. The muskellunge, often confused
with the Great Lakes or English pike, is more limited in range than the
pike, being found in the Great Lakes region and the waters of the St.
Lawrence River.
Since the habits and general characteristics of the large-mouth bass
are much the same as its near relative, the small-mouth, the following
hints apply to both. When wading, it is well to cast downstream. Cast
in the shallows, near the weeds and snags, and close to stumps. As
little noise should be made as possible.
For early-spring casting, bass are likely to be found in the shallows
and sheltered places during the day, because the water is cool at this
season. The pickerel will also be found in the warmer and shallower
waters. The most successful baits at this time are the diving minnows,
and other under-water lures. As the warmer days of late spring and
early summer appear, the bass swim out into deeper and cooler water,
while the pickerel remain close to the lily pads. The wooden minnows
are excellent baits to use at this season. When the weeds are very
thick, one of the several kinds of weedless baits may be used.
The early-morning and late-afternoon hours are the best for midsummer
casting, and the shallow places are the good spots to work over. If
there are any brooks or streams emptying into the lake or pond, do not
neglect to work this stretch well at the mouth. When the sun is low,
the white or light-colored surface baits may be substituted for the
medium-dark colored diving varieties, and for casting after dark, a
luminous or moonlight bait will often give good results. During the
fall months fishing conditions are similar to casting in the spring,
but the deep water is then the warmest, and the under-water or diving
baits are usually the best.
To catch bass, the angler must cast his bait where the fish are
feeding, and he will find it an advantage to match natural conditions,
so far as possible, in selecting his baits. For casting on bright
days in clear waters, the red, white and red, white, or green minnows
are good lures, as are also the silverplated spoon baits. Cast well
ahead of the boat, and reel in very slowly to keep the plug spinning
well below the surface. On cloudy days and in muddy waters, after a
heavy rain, for example, use red and yellow baits and goldplated or
burnished-copper spoons. The best all-around bait--equally good for
bass and pickerel--is one of the green-backed minnows, but no one bait
can be expected to meet all conditions, hence the caster should have a
fair assortment of baits.
A stiff casting rod with plenty of backbone is essential for
muskellunge. The angler is out after big game and must be prepared for
the sport. A hard, braided silk line, size E, and 3-0 or 4-0 hooks,
snelled and swiveled, are the best. Any of the wooden baits suitable
for pickerel--the minnows especially--are good for muskellunge. A man
to handle the oars is a handy companion, and after casting the bait
just outside the weed bed, make for deep water as soon as a fish is
hooked. The fish will be seen and felt quickly enough, and when it
breaks water and leaps in the air, give it a little slack line quickly,
otherwise the strain will snap the leader. A twisted, bronzed trace
is the best to use between line and bait, and this need not be longer
than a foot--6 in. is enough. When the fish is brought alongside,
shoot him through the head with a revolver which is probably the most
satisfactory manner of making an easy landing.
A Cat-Proof Bird Table
[Illustration]
Our bird table is a source of great enjoyment, particularly since
the birds feel secure from cats or other enemies because of the
construction of this ornament in our garden. The sketch shows the
arrangement of the table braced at the top of a 6-ft. post. Shrubbery
surrounds the table and a light evergreen climber clings to the post,
yet does not give the cats a good foothold.
Experience has taught us that birds in general prefer bread crumbs to
other varieties of food, and they are also fond of cracked wheat. The
linnets like oranges particularly. We cut an orange in two and place
the halves on the table. It is amusing to see the birds balance on one
side of the orange while they peck at the fruit. Soon the orange peel
is almost entirely emptied. We provide a small basin of fresh water
on the table, and the birds use it as a drinking cup as well as a
bathtub.--F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.
Making Photographic Prints Glossy
Pictures printed on glossy, semi-glossy, or semimat paper may be given
a high gloss by the following method: Obtain a sheet of clean glass,
without scratches, and apply a solution of a piece of paraffin, the
size of a walnut, in one pint of gasoline. Use a soft cloth, and when
the glass is dry, rub until all traces are removed. Soak the prints in
water for 10 minutes and place them on the glass, face down. Place a
clean blotter over them and roll on it with a print roller, to remove
excess water and to give them a good contact with the glass. Dry the
prints in a warm place, preferably where there is a draft.--M. E.
Fuller, Detroit, Michigan.
Shaving-Brush Holder
A shaving brush is injured by permitting it to remain in the mug to
dry. It should be suspended with the hair down so that it may dry
thoroughly and quickly. A hook made from a piece of wire bent to form
a loop, with a pointed section at each side of it, may be made easily.
The loop should be of a size to fit the thin portion of the handle, and
the pointed ends of the wire are driven into the wall or other support.
A loop may be made at each end instead of pointing the wire and the
device fixed to the wall with two small screws placed through the end
loops.
[Illustration: How To Build A Canoe
By Stillman Taylor
PART I
Specifications and List of Materials]
Canoe making is commonly considered more difficult than building
the larger and heavier craft but many amateurs with only ordinary
experience and tools have turned out satisfactory canoes, and if the
simple directions given here are carefully followed out, the work will
proceed rapidly and no difficulty will be encountered. Working with
light materials, the canoe builder must pay particular attention to
the workmanship, and, as it is many times more difficult to patch up
mistakes in a canoe than it is in rowboats or other heavier craft, the
work must not be hurried, but plenty of time taken to do each and every
part well and in a workmanlike manner.
The craft described, which is the regulation open or Canadian model,
is comparatively light and draws very little water. It is not a flimsy
makeshift, but a stiff and thoroughly dependable canoe designed for
long service, which, barring accidents and given reasonably good care,
will continue to give satisfaction for many years. The tools needed are
the common ones found in most homes, consisting of a rip and cross-cut
saw, chisel, screwdriver, drawknife, awl, brace and bits, rule, hammer,
vise, plane, and three or four cheap wood, or metal, screw clamps. The
list of material given is for a canoe having a length of about 16 ft.,
31-in. beam, 18-in. depth at the ends, 12¹⁄₂-in. depth amidships, and
weighing from 60 to 70 lb., according to the material.
While oak or ash makes the best stems, other woods may be used, rock
elm and fir being very satisfactory substitutes. Where cedar is
specified, spruce pine, cypress, or fir may likewise be employed. The
materials for molds and ribbands, which are required to give form to
the craft, may be cut from any cheap stuff, and this will reduce the
cost somewhat.
STEM, 1 piece oak or ash, 6 ft. long and ³⁄₄ in. square.
KEELSON, (inside keel) 1 piece oak or ash 14 ft. long, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide,
³⁄₈ in. thick.
GUNWALES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 16 ft. long, ⁷⁄₈ in. wide, ¹⁄₂ in.
thick.
SEAT RISINGS, 2 pieces oak or ash, ¹⁄₂ in. square.
FENDERWALES, 34 ft. ¹⁄₂-in. half-round molding. Oak or ash best for
hard knocks.
OUTSIDE KEEL (may be omitted if desired), 1 piece oak, 14 ft. by 1
in. by ¹⁄₂ in. thick.
DECK BEAMS, 2 pieces oak or ash, 8 in. long, 1¹⁄₈ in. wide, ³⁄₄ in.
thick.
SEAT FRAMES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 30 in. long, 3 in. wide, ³⁄₄ in.
thick.
SEAT FRAMES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 12 in. long, 2¹⁄₄ in. wide, ³⁄₄ in.
thick.
PLANKING, cedar or pine, 100 sq. ft., ¹⁄₈ in. thick. Best secured by
purchasing 25 ft. of 1-in. lumber, and having same dressed on two
sides to ¹⁄₈ in. thick, and in lengths of 12, 14 and 16 ft. This will
give the minimum amount of waste.
BACKBONE, 1 piece cedar or pine, any cheap stuff, 16 ft. long, 4 in.
wide, ⁷⁄₈ in. thick.
MOLDS, 1 piece any cheap stuff, 16 ft. long, 1 ft. wide, ⁷⁄₈ in.
thick.
RIBBANDS, 8 pieces any cheap stuff, 14 ft. long, ³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₂
in. thick.
RIBS, 360 running feet, cedar, 1³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₈ in. thick.
BREAST HOOKS OR DECKS, 1 piece cedar or oak, 32 in. long, 9 in. wide,
³⁄₄ in. thick.
1 lb. 2-in. wire nails to make form for keel.
1 lb. ⁵⁄₈-in. copper clout nails, for fastening ribs.
¹⁄₂ lb. ³⁄₄-in. copper clout nails, for fastening seat risings.
18 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 8 brass screws, for fastening decks and deck beams.
24 1-in. No. 6 brass screws, for fastening seats.
4 lb. patent marine glue to cement canvas to planking.
3 oz. No. 2 ounce copper tacks to fasten canvas with.
11³⁄₄ yd. No. 6 ounce canvas for covering hull.
1 lb. ³⁄₈-in. copper tacks to fasten planking to ribs.
The Backbone and Molds
The first step in the construction of a canoe is to get out the
backbone and the molds, or forms, which give the correct dimensions
and shape of the craft. The backbone may be made from any inexpensive
soft wood, such as cedar, spruce, pine, or cypress; and for making it a
piece of lumber, 16 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, is used.
By referring to Fig. 1 it will be seen that the upper edge measures
exactly 15 ft. 8³⁄₄ in., and that the lower edge is ¹⁄₂ in. longer,
giving a total length of 15 ft. 9¹⁄₄ in. The spaces numbered from each
end of the backbone toward the center, as 1, 2, 3, and 4, indicate
where the corresponding molds are to be placed. Seven molds are used
and as a canoe is tapered alike at both ends the molds are numbered
alike and are made exactly to the same dimensions.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
The First Step in the Construction of a Canoe Is to Get Out the
Backbone and the Molds, or Forms, Which Give the Correct Dimensions and
Shapes of the Craft]
A good way to lay out the backbone accurately is first to mark the
total length, making the lower edge 1 in. longer than represented in
Fig. 1, then measure along the top edge exactly 22¹⁄₄ in., and run
a pencil line across. From this line measure off ³⁄₄ in. and draw a
second line across the width of the board parallel with the first. This
space represents the thickness of the mold, and it is marked 1. Measure
off 23¹⁄₄ in. and make two parallel lines as before and number it 2,
measure another 23¹⁄₄-in. length and number it 3. Begin measuring from
the opposite end of the board as in the first instance, 22¹⁄₄ in. and
give it number 1, then mark off 2 and 3 the same as for the end already
marked. The board is then cut off at the bevel mark at each end.
The Molds or Forms
The molds which give the form to the hull are shown and numbered in
the order that they are fastened to the backbone. To get out No. 1
mold draw a rectangle on a sheet of stiff paper exactly 13⁵⁄₈ in.
long and 11 in. wide as shown in Fig. 2. Run cross lines to divide it
in quarters and mark out the center mortise for the backbone, which
is 5 in. deep and ⁷⁄₈ in. wide. Measure 4 in. toward each side from
the outside edge of the backbone mortise and mark the mortises for
receiving the gunwales, which are 1⁵⁄₈ in. long and ³⁄₄ in. wide or
deep. To obtain the correct bilge curve lay the rule on the bottom
line and measure off exactly 1 in. to the left of the center dividing
line and make dot 0. Measure 2³⁄₄ in. farther to the left, to A; turn
the rule at right angles and measure 2¹⁄₈ in. inside the line and make
dot 1. Measure 1¹⁄₂ in. to the left of A, turn rule at right angles
and measure up the sheet exactly 4⁷⁄₈ in. and make dot 2, which will
be ¹⁄₄ in. inside of the left vertical line. On the center horizontal
line, which is 1¹⁵⁄₁₆ in. above dot 2, mark dot 3, ¹⁄₁₆ in. from the
left vertical line. Measure off 2 in. above the horizontal center line
and make dot 4 on the vertical line. The space between these two dots
is the widest part of the bilge curve. Lay the rule on the bottom line
of the gunwale mortise and measure off ³⁄₁₆ in. from the outside line
and make dot 5. Pencil the angle from dot to dot and draw in the full
curve. Cut out the half section, fold on the vertical center line, and
draw the right side.
[Illustration: FIG. 2]
Two complete No. 2 molds are required, but it is more convenient to
make each mold in two sections. Each half is made 11¹⁄₂ in. wide and
12 in. deep, as shown in Fig. 3. First draw a rectangle to these
dimensions and run cross lines to divide it into quarters. Beginning
at the upper right-hand corner, mark the mortises for gunwales and
backbone, which, being only one-half of the complete form, will be
⁷⁄₁₆ in. wide and 3¹⁄₄ in. deep. Laying the rule on the outside line
immediately below the mortise, draw a second mortise for the keel,
which is ³⁄₈ in. deep and 1¹⁄₂ in. wide in the half section. Measure
off 1³⁄₄ in. to the left along the bottom line from keel mortise and
make dot 1. The dot 2 is made by measuring 2¹⁄₂ in. to the left of 1,
turning the rule at right angles at B and measuring ⁵⁄₁₆ in. inside the
line as shown in the sketch. Make the dot 3 at a point 1³⁄₄ in. to the
left of 2 and ³⁄₄ in. inside of the line. The dot 4 is 1³⁄₄ in. from C
and 1³⁄₄ in. inside of the line. The dot 5 is 1¹⁄₄ in. farther to the
left and 3¹⁄₄ in. inside of the line. The dot 6 is ⁵⁄₈ in. from dot 5
and 4³⁄₄ in. inside of the line, which will bring it ³⁄₈ in. inside of
the left vertical line. At a point 1¹⁄₂ in. above 6 make dot 7 on the
marginal line, and dot 8, 1¹⁄₄ in. above it. Between the dots 7 and 8
is the widest part of the bilge curve. Dot 9 in exactly ¹⁄₄ in. inside
of the vertical marginal line. These dots produce the angles, and it
is only necessary to trace in the full curve and cut it out to make a
pattern for the other three half sections needed.
[Illustration: FIG. 3
It Is More Convenient to Make Each Mold in Two Sections, as Two
Complete Molds are Required]
The molds No. 3, Fig. 4, are located near the center of the canoe and
are made a trifle wider. Make a rectangle 14³⁄₈ in. long by 12 in. wide
and draw cross line dividing it into quarters. Trace the half mortises
for the backbone, gunwale, and keel from the No. 2 mold pattern. Lay
the rule on the bottom line and measure off ¹⁄₂ in. to the left from
the center vertical line and mark dot 1, which is the beginning of the
bilge curve. At a point 2³⁄₄ in. to the left and ³⁄₄ in. inside of the
line place dot 2, and 2 in. to the left of this and 2¹⁄₄ in. inside of
the line place dot 3, then 1¹⁄₈ in. farther to the left turn the rule
at right angles and measure up 4 in. inside of the line for dot 4,
which is ¹³⁄₁₆ in. inside of the left marginal line. At a point 2 in.
above dot 4 make dot 5 on the marginal line and 2¹⁄₈ in. above it make
dot 6. The space between gives the widest part of the bilge curve, with
dot 7 exactly ¹⁄₄ in. inside of the marginal line, measuring along the
bottom of the gunwale mortise. Trace the angle and from it run the full
curve and use this for a pattern for cutting out the other molds.
[Illustration: FIG. 4
This Mold is Located near the Centre of a Canoe and is Made a Trifle
Wider]
Mold No. 4 is placed amidships in the center of the canoe and only one
complete mold is required, as shown in Fig. 5. To make a pattern draw
a rectangle 15 in. long and 12 in. wide, and divide it into four equal
parts as before. From the No. 3 mold pattern trace in the mortises for
the gunwale, backbone, and keel. Lay the rule on the bottom outside
line and measure 2 in. from the center line to the left at D and turn
the rule at right angles and measure off ⁵⁄₁₆ in. inside of the bottom
line and make dot 1. Measure, from D, 1¹⁄₂ in. to E, turn the rule up
and measure off ⁵⁄₈ in. inside the line and make dot 2. The dot 3 is
1¹⁄₂ in. farther to the left and 1¹⁄₄ in. inside the line and dot 4 is
1 in. to the left of 3 and 2 in. inside of the line. The dot 5 is 1¹⁄₄
in. to the left of dot 4, and 4 in. inside of the bottom line, which
will bring it ¹⁄₄ in. inside of the left vertical side line. At a point
2 in. above dot 5 make dot 6 on the outside vertical line and 1¹⁄₄ in.
above it make dot 7. The space between dots 6 and 7 gives the widest
part of the correct bilge curve. Exactly 3³⁄₄ in. above dot 7 and
¹⁄₄ in. inside of the vertical side line make dot 8, which marks the
beginning of the bilge curve above the water line and at the gunwale
mortise. The curve of the canoe floor is quite flat, but not exactly
a straight line. Lay the rule on the bottom line and measure up, on
the inner edge of the keel mortise, ¹⁄₈ in., then 2¹⁄₂ in. to the left
make a mark, F, ¹⁄₁₆ in. inside the bottom line and a pencil line drawn
between them will enable one to trace the correct curve. Having cut out
the pattern make two wood forms exactly alike to have it complete, as
shown. After finishing the seven complete molds, fasten them securely
together by nailing a couple of battens across the halves.
[Illustration: FIG. 5
This Mold is Placed Amidships, in the Center of the Canoe, and Only One
is Required]
[Illustration: FIG. 6
Straight-Grained Material must be Selected for the Stems, as It Is
Necessary to Bend Them to Shape]
The Ribbands and Stems
The ribbands are merely strips of wood, ³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₂ in. thick,
and 14 ft. long. Any cheap stuff will do because they are only used
to give the correct shape of the canoe curve while building it. Six
ribbands are necessary, and it is best to use eight lengths in order to
make sure that the ribs are bent at the required angle and that both
sides of the canoe are ribbed at the one uniform curve. For the stems
ash or oak, ³⁄₄ in. square, is used, and straight-grained material must
be selected since it is necessary to bend them to obtain the requisite
curve.
To make the pattern for the stem mold, shown in Fig. 6, draw a
rectangle, 24¹⁄₂ in. long by 12 in. wide, and divide it into four equal
parts. Lay the rule on the left side at the upper corner, at G, measure
down 1 in. and make dot 1. Lay the rule along the top horizontal line
and measure 2¹⁄₂ in. from G and make dot 2, then draw a pencil line
between them. From dot 1 measure along this line exactly ³⁄₄ in.,
and make dot 3. From dot 2 measure straight down 1³⁄₄ in. to H, turn
at right angles and measure off ⁵⁄₈ in. to the right and make dot 4,
and make a pencil line from 2 to 4 as shown. From dot 2 lay the rule
parallel with the top horizontal line and measure off 9³⁄₄ in., turn at
right angles and measure down on the center line 2¹⁄₄ in. and make dot
5.
Lay the rule at the upper right corner and measure down the vertical
line 2³⁄₄ in., turn the rule at right angles and measure off 3⁷⁄₈ in.
and make dot 6. From the upper right-hand corner measure off 1⁵⁄₈ in.
and make dot 7 exactly ¹⁄₄ in. inside the top horizontal line. Again
place the rule at the right-hand corner, measure down the vertical line
exactly 2 in. and make dot 8. Draw the line from dot 7 to 8, and ¹⁄₂
in. from dot 8, make dot 9. This gives the correct contour of the stem
where it joins the splice of the keel.
[Illustration: FIG. 7
It Is Not Necessary to Make a Paper Pattern for the Keel, or Keelson,
as the Piece is Merely Tapered Uniformly from the Center to Ends, and
It can be Drawn Direct on the Board]
The greatest curve and width of the stem is at J on the lower line. To
obtain the correct curve begin at the upper left corner and measure
from dot 1 down the vertical line 4¹⁄₂ in. to K, turn the rule at
right angles and measure 1¹⁄₄ in. inside the line, and make dot 10.
The dot 11 is placed by measuring down from K exactly 3¹⁄₄ in. to L,
when the rule is turned at right angles and a length of 4 in. measured
off inside of the line. The dot 12 is located in the same manner by
measuring 2³⁄₄ in. below L and running 8³⁄₄ in. inside the line, as
shown.
To finish the irregular curve of the stem, measure from J at the center
of the lower horizontal line 2 in. to M, turn the rule up and measure
off ¹⁄₂ in. inside of the line, and make dot 13. The dot 14 is made by
measuring off 4 in. from M to N and turning the rule to a point 3 in.
inside the line, as shown. Then from point N measure to O 1¹⁄₄ in., and
then measure up 4 in. to dot 15. From the dot 14 to 15 run a straight
line. The dot 15 should be exactly 5 in. inside of the right vertical
line.
Allowance for the beveled splice of the stem to the inside keel must
now be made, and the beginning is to run a light pencil line from dot
15 to dot 6. From dot 15 measure up ¹⁄₂ in., turn the rule at P and
make dot 16 exactly ¹⁄₄ in. to the left of the upright line. From dot
16 a line is run to dot 8 which completes the angle of the curve. The
full curve is then easily traced in.
The Inside Keel, or Keelson
The inside keel, or keelson, is made exactly 13 ft. 11 in. long and
3¹⁄₂ in. wide in the center, which is, of course, amidships. It is
unnecessary to go to the trouble of making a paper pattern for this
because the keel is merely tapered uniformly from center to ends, and
this may be drawn on the surface of the board direct. The board being
13 ft. 11 in. long and 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, it is only necessary to make
cross lines exactly in the center both ways. From the center measure 1
ft. toward one end and make the width at that point 3¹⁄₂ in. Measure
1 ft. farther along, and again make the width 3¹⁄₂ in. as before.
Continue in this manner, making the third station 3¹⁄₄ in.; the fourth,
2⁵⁄₈ in.; the fifth, 2 in.; the sixth, 1¹⁄₄ in., and the width at the
ends ¹⁵⁄₁₆ in. This detail is well shown in Fig. 7. Bend the stem on
the mold and fasten it to the keel by means of a couple of ³⁄₄-in. No.
10 screws at each end.
The Ribs and Gunwales
[Illustration: FIG. 8
The Ribs are Fastened to the Outside of the Keelson and are Curved
under the Ribbands]
The ribs are best made of cedar, cut from the same material as the
planking. They are 1³⁄₄ in. wide and ¹⁄₈ in. thick. It is a good plan
to saw out several long lengths and cut them off as required, the
length being determined by measuring from gunwale to gunwale around
the curve over the ribbands. The ribs are put in under the ribbands,
and the thickness of the latter will allow sufficient wood for making
a good fit at the sheer line. The gunwales are two straight strips, 16
ft. long, ⁷⁄₈ in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick.
[Illustration: FIG. 9
The Bent Stem is Fastened to the Keel with Screws at Both Ends]
Setting Up the Canoe
Having made all the material ready, the work of setting up the canoe
may begin, and as it is built upside down, place the backbone on
boxes, about 1 ft. or more above the floor, and place the molds in the
numbered places on the backbone, allowing the backbone to rest upon the
bottom of the mortises cut in the top of the molds. Study Figs. 8 and 9
before beginning the work of setting up the hull.
True up the molds with a square and fasten them firmly by toenailing
them to the backbone. Put the keelson in place, allowing it to fit down
in the mortises cut in the molds to receive it. Take particular care
that the stems are a good fit with the angle of the backbone at the
ends, then fasten by nailing through the top edge of the mold into the
stems. As shown in the stem-mold drawing, Fig. 6, the splice where the
stem fits the keelson must be cut out after it is bent into place. This
is easily done by marking around the outside edge of the stem and then
beveling from the inside on each side. The outer edge is left about ¹⁄₈
in. wide, and the bevel runs out to the width of the keel at the lower
end.
The gunwales are next put on at the sheer line, and fastened to the
molds and stems, leaving sufficient of the nails exposed to make them
easily withdrawn later on. The four ribbands are then put on each
side, at equal distances apart, between the gunwale and keel, or at
5-in. centers, measuring from the keel up toward the gunwale. Fasten
the ribbands by driving 1¹⁄₄-in. brads through them into the mold.
Measure off the keel for the ribs, which should be put on 3 in. apart,
measuring from the centers. The ribs are fastened to the outside of
the keelson and are curved under the ribbands. Fasten each rib to the
keel by means of two ⁵⁄₈-in. copper clout nails, then spring them into
place and fasten to the gunwales. Put in all the ribs in the same way,
spacing them so that a rib will be placed over each mold. When all the
ribs are put in, remove the ribbands, and begin planking the hull.
Planking the Canoe
As a canoe is planked with ¹⁄₈-in. cedar it is easily bent to the curve
of the ribs while cold, thus doing away with the trouble of steaming.
Unlike heavier-planked craft the planking is not rabbeted at the stem
but is nailed to the beveled surface. For strength and to give a
perfectly smooth skin on which to lay the canvas, it is advisable to
run the planking the full length from stem to stem. Begin by putting on
the garboard strake, which is the bottom plank at the keel. Punch holes
in the plank with an awl, not directly in line, but staggered from side
to side along the ribs. This will prevent the possibility of splitting.
Drive in the copper clout nails while the plank is kept in place with a
clamp to facilitate the work. Hold a clinch iron, or any handy piece of
iron, inside and clinch the nails so that the ends are well imbedded
in the rib on the inside. It is a simple matter to fit each plank in
place, because they are merely a close fit at the edge, butted together
without beveling. The number of planks required will depend upon the
width, and while wider strips may be used, planking cut to the width of
3 in. is generally employed. In any case the top plank or sheer strake
should be level with the gunwale from one stem to the other. When the
hull is completely planked, cut off the ends of the planking to the
curve of the stems and gunwales. The backbone and molds may now be
taken out by sawing the backbone in two. Tack a couple of strips across
the gunwales to keep the hull from sagging out of shape, then drive the
nails over the sections the molds occupied, since these forms prevented
doing this work before.
Seat Risings and Seats
The seat risings are simply straight sticks, ¹⁄₂ in. square, and are
fastened on the inside for the seats to rest upon. They are about 4
in. below the gunwale. Oak or ash is the best material, and the length
is 14 ft. To fasten in place, first bore a small hole and then nail
through the planking and ribs, and clinch on the inside of the rising.
[Illustration: FIG. 10
The Seat Frame may be Caned, or a Canvas Seat Tacked On, as Preferred]
The seat frame is fashioned as shown in Fig. 10, and may be caned, or a
canvas seat tacked on, as preferred. Many canoeists prefer to kneel, in
which case a seat bar, about 4 or 5 in. wide, is run athwartships for
the paddler’s back and thighs to rest against while paddling.
The Deck Beams and Decks
The deck beams are merely straight pieces, about 8 in. long, 1¹⁄₈ in.
wide, and ³⁄₈ in. thick. These are notched at the ends as shown in
Fig. 11, so that they will come up and wedge against the sides of the
gunwales about ¹⁄₂ in. Put them in by boring a hole through the gunwale
and fasten with a 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 10 screw at each end. Two are required,
one at each end.
[Illustration: FIG. 11]
[Illustration: FIG. 12
The Shape of the Deck or Breast Hooks and the Beams That Support Them]
The deck, or breast, hooks are made 16 in. long by 8 in. wide and of
the shape shown in Fig. 12. To fasten them in place bore three holes
through the deck into the deck beam and secure them with three 1¹⁄₄-in.
No. 10 screws. Bore three holes along the gunwale on each side and turn
three 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 10 screws into the deck.
A Center Thwart
To strengthen and stiffen the hull a center thwart, or cross bar,
should be run across the canoe amidships. A piece of oak or ash,
³⁄₈ in. thick and tapering from 2 in. in the center to 1 in. at the
ends, should be screwed to the lower side of the gunwale. Although
not exactly essential, it is a good plan to run another thwart across
the canoe just back of the forward seat, and a rear thwart some 3 ft.
forward of the rear seat, or paddling bar. This will make the craft
very stiff when a heavy load is carried, and likewise prevent the
lightly constructed hull from sagging, or “hogging,” when stored for
the winter.
[Illustration: FIG. 13
The Manner of Shaping the Ends of the Canvas to Fit over the Canoe Ends]
Applying the Canvas
The canvas is put on with marine glue, the black kind being the best
for this particular purpose. Before gluing the canvas, lay it smoothly
on the hull and trim so that it will fold nicely at the stems, as
shown in Fig. 13. Melt the glue in a can over a moderately hot fire
and spread it on one side of the canvas with a stiff brush. Of course,
the glue will be too thick to spread evenly, but be sure to apply it
as evenly as possible, and touch every bit of the canvas with a fairly
heavy coating of glue. Lay the glued canvas in place, and iron with
a moderately hot flatiron. This melts the glue, and the canvas will
adhere smoothly to the planking. Finish by tacking the edge of the
canvas along the edge of the gunwales, and fold the canvas as smoothly
as possible at the stem, and tack in place, running the line of tacks
exactly down the center line of the stem.
Fenders or Covering Strips
Fenders of ¹⁄₂-in. round molding may be tacked on to cover the edge of
the canvas, or a strip, 1 in. wide, may be sawed from the same material
as the planking and tacked to cover the edge by using 1¹⁄₄-in. brads
every 2 or 3 in. along the edge.
Stem Bands and Outside Keel
The stem bands may be made from wood if desired and bent to shape, but
the brass oval stem or bang iron, ³⁄₈ in. wide, makes a stronger and
better finish. The wood stem band should be about ³⁄₈ in. square, and
rounded on the outside. Put this on with 1¹⁄₄-in. brads and fasten the
brass band with ³⁄₄-in. screws.
The outside keel may or may not be used, according to preference. It
strengthens the canoe to a certain extent and keeps the bottom from
many a scratch while pulling out. The usual outside keel is about 1
in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, of oak or ash, and tapered at the stems to
the width of the stem bands, which are screwed on over it. The most
serviceable keel is about 2¹⁄₂ in. wide in the center, and tapers to
fit the bands at either end. When made of ³⁄₄-in. oak, or ash, it makes
a splendid protection for the bottom of the hull, especially when the
craft is used in rocky waters. Unlike the narrow keel, the flat keel
makes the canoe easier to turn with the paddle, but any form of keel
will add several pounds to the weight of the craft and is for this
reason often omitted.
Painting the Canoe
The canvas should be given a coat of shellac before the paint is
applied. This makes it waterproof. Then four coats of paint are
applied to fill the fibers of the canvas. To make a smooth finishing
coat, rub down the second and third coats with fine sandpaper. The
entire woodwork of the canoe should be finished with three coats of
good-quality outside spar varnish.
A slatted grating, made of soft-pine lattice stuff, about 1¹⁄₈ in. wide
and 1¹⁄₄ in. thick, will afford protection to the bottom of the canoe.
For summer use this is desirable, but may be omitted on long trips and
when soft footwear is worn. The grating should not be fastened to the
ribs, but the parallel strips screwed, or nailed, to cross strips,
curved to fit the contour of the canoe’s bottom. The grating should
extend from well under the stern seat up to the stem splice in the bow,
and should be nicely tapered to make a neat appearance. By fastening
two or three little blocks of wood so that they will extend up between
the slats, one may screw small brass buttons into these blocks to
keep the slatted floor in place, thus making it easily removable when
washing out the canoe.
A Ring-and-Egg Trick
This trick consists in borrowing a ring and wrapping it in a
handkerchief from which it is made to disappear, to be found in an egg,
taken from a number in a plate.
Obtain a wedding ring and sew it into one corner of a handkerchief.
After borrowing a ring, pretend to wrap it in the center of the
handkerchief, but instead wrap up the one concealed in the corner,
retaining the borrowed one in the hand. Before beginning the
performance, place in the bottom of an egg cup a small quantity of soft
wax. When getting the cup, slip the borrowed ring into the wax in an
upright position. An egg is then chosen by anyone in the audience. This
is placed in the egg cup, the ring in the bottom being pressed into
the shell. With a button hook break the top of the shell and fish out
the ring. The handkerchief is then taken out to show that the ring has
vanished.
Lock for Gasoline Tank on a Launch
[Illustration: Filler-Pipe Cover Lock to Prevent the Theft of Gasoline
from a Motorboat]
Having trouble by thefts of gasoline from the tank in my launch, I made
the following device to prevent them, which proved very effective. A
strap hinge, about 12 in. long, was procured, and on one wing, near
the outer end, I fastened a staple made of a large nail, and near the
center a large hole was drilled to fit over the pipe, or opening, to
the tank. The other wing of the hinge was bent to the shape shown, and
an oak block was fastened in the bend with wood screws. A hole was
bored in the block to fit over the end of the pipe. A slot was cut in
the same wing at the end to receive the staple. In turning the wing
over to cover the pipe end, the staple was brought into position for
a padlock. After locking the device, most of the screws are covered
so that it is almost impossible to remove them without taking off the
lock.--Contributed by Stephen H. Freeman, Klamath Falls, Oregon.
A Quick-Acting Bench Vise
[Illustration: A Quick-Acting Vise Made of Hard Wood for the Home
Worker’s Bench]
For those who desire a quick-acting vise and cannot afford the price
of a manufactured one, I designed the vise shown in the illustration.
A detail is given of each part, with dimensions, so that it is not
difficult to make it from hard wood. The roll A binds the vise so that
it remains rigid, while the cam in front gives the necessary play, to
release or tighten as preferred. The clamp jaw B is pivoted so that it
swings loose, thus making it fit any surface that may not be parallel
with its opposite side. In releasing the stock, the cam is first
turned, and then the front part of the vise is pulled up to relieve the
roll A. The front jaw can be then moved back and forth to take stock of
any size desired. As soon as the stock is placed, the roll A falls into
place and clamps the jaw arm C.--Contributed by J. C. Hansen, Maywood,
Ill.
* * * * *
¶A practical vacuum will raise water 30 feet.
[Illustration: How To Build A Canoe
By Stillman Taylor
PART II
Sailing the Open Paddling Canoe]
Sailing and its recreations are afforded the owner of an open paddling
canoe, for a satisfactory sailing rig may be provided at small cost. A
regulation sailing outfit may be purchased, but it is rather costly,
and if the canoeist cannot use a sail frequently, purchasing an
outfit is unduly expensive. A sailing rig may be constructed even by
one of only moderate skill, who will devote a few hours to it. The
specifications given, if carefully followed, will enable one to make
a sailing rig as serviceable as a ready-made outfit, and at about
one-half the cost.
The specifications and list of material for a sailing outfit suitable
for a 16-ft. open canoe are as follows:
1 piece bamboo, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, 6 ft. 10 in. long, for mast.
2 pieces bamboo fishing rod, 1 in. at butt, 10 ft. long.
1 piece, cedar or white pine, 5 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and ⁷⁄₈ in.
thick, for leeboard thwart.
2 pieces, cedar or pine, 28 in. long, 10 in. wide, and ³⁄₈ in. thick,
for mast thwart.
1 piece, cedar or pine, 27¹⁄₂ in. long, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in.
thick, for mast thwart.
1 piece, cedar or pine, 5 in. long, 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, and 1 in. thick,
for mast step.
8 yd. unbleached cotton sheeting, 1 yd. wide, for making sail.
30 ft. ¹⁄₄-in. cotton rope, for halyard and main sheet.
4 brass lantern-board hooks, for clamping mast thwart and leeboard
thwart to canoe.
2 brass stove bolts, 3 in. long and ⁵⁄₁₆ in. diameter, with washers
and thumb nuts, for clamping leeboards at desired angle.
1 brass single-boom jaw for canoe, 2 in. long, for keeping boom on
mast.
3 brass screw eyes, 1¹⁄₂ in. long with ¹⁄₂-in. eye, one for halyard,
two for spars.
1 brass split ring, 1¹⁄₂ in., for fastening ends of spars together.
1 brass “S” hook, 1³⁄₄ in. long, for fastening ends of spars.
In converting the paddling canoe for sailing, it is desirable that
it be unmarred, as far as possible. The rig described represents the
result of experiments with various arrangements, and has been found to
be safe and convenient. The original outfit has been in use for six
years and will still serve for some time.
The lateen rig is best for an open canoe, because a shorter mast is
required for the same sail area. An open craft is less suited for
carrying sail than one which is decked fore, aft, and amidships. It is
not safe to rig a canoe too heavily, and the rig described has been
found to be well proportioned.
Bamboo is best for the mast, because it is lighter and tougher than
a solid wood spar of the same dimensions, and is readily procured.
Dealers in rugs use bamboo of 1¹⁄₂ to 2-in. diameter on which to roll
carpets, and it may usually be purchased of them.
Cut the bamboo to a length of 6 ft. 10 in., and whittle a wooden plug,
about 3 in. long, tapering it so that it will wedge firmly inside,
taking care not to split the cane. Bore a small hole through the cane
2 in. from the top, plug it and fix a screw eye into the plug. Drive
small brads through the cane into the plug to prevent the former from
splitting. A brass ferrule fitted over the end of the bamboo will make
a strong and neat finish.
The sail is made in the form of a triangle and measures 9 ft. on each
side. It is best to have it sewed on a machine. The sail is bighted
with parallel strips, or folds, ¹⁄₂ in. wide, spaced 6 in. apart, as
shown at the left in the illustration. First cut the canvas to the
approximate size and shape by laying the spars over it and marking the
outline with a pencil. Next sew the separate widths together, lapping
one edge over the other about ¹⁄₂ in., and sewing close to both edges.
The bights or folds run at an angle and parallel with the loose ends
of the leech of the sail. The sail should then be reinforced at the
corners by sewing segments of cloth at these points. Along the edges
which are to be lashed to the spars, fold over a strip of canvas and
sew it to make a 1-in. hem. Run a ¹⁄₂-in. tape into the fold along the
leech while sewing the hem. This tape is fastened to the spar at each
end, to take up the slack caused by the stretching of the sail after
use, thus preventing that bugbear of sailors--a flapping leech.
[Illustration: Sailing and Its Recreations are Afforded the Owner of
an Open Paddling Canoe, for a Satisfactory Sailing Rig may be Provided
at Small Cost. The Canoe Is Practically Unmarred, yet the Sailing
Outfit is Installed Substantially and may be Removed Quickly. The Canoe
Is Shown Running Nearly Free--before the Wind--and the Leeboards are
Therefore Only Partly Submerged]
The mast thwart is made as shown at the right in the illustration,
and has a hole cut in the center to fit the mast. It is also provided
with two lantern-board hooks, one at each end, with which to clamp the
thwart to the gunwales. The mast is supported at the bottom by means of
the mast step, which is a block of wood, shaped as shown to give a neat
appearance. It is fastened to the grating, or to the ribs if no grating
is used.
The leeboard thwart is also shown in the sketch, at the right. The
short upright ends are set at an angle so that they conform to the
curve of the canoe and wedge the thwart into place immediately aft of
the mast. The ends are grooved to fit the thwart and fastened with
screws. A carriage bolt is fitted through each end piece and provided
with a wing nut, which holds the leeboard in place on each side. The
leeboards may thus be adjusted at the desired angle by fixing them with
wing nuts. No dimensions are given, for it is obvious that they will
vary on different styles and sizes of canoes. A finish in keeping with
that of the canoe should be applied. Smooth all the work as carefully
as possible with sharp tools and sandpaper it lightly. Three coats of
spar varnish will give a satisfactory finish.
The sail is hoisted by running the halyard through the screw eye at
the top of the mast, until the gaff spar is close to the mast top, as
illustrated.
The boom jaw is fastened on the boom, with the open end 18 in. from
the forward end of the boom. This will permit the forefoot of the sail
to extend forward of the mast. By tying the halyard at various points
along the gaff, the point of balance may be found. For the sake of
safety the halyard should not be tied to the forward thwart, but run
under it to the stern within easy reach of the canoeist. The main sheet
should never be made fast, but the rope merely looped around the thwart
and held in the hand or beneath the foot, so that it may be released
quickly if a puff of wind should strike the sail.
Steering is done with a paddle. This method is more convenient than a
rudder where the single sail is used. The paddle is always used on the
lee side--away from the wind--and the wake keeps the blade close to
the side of the canoe, without much effort on the part of the person
guiding it. When turning about make the regular paddling stroke, but
finish it by thrusting the blade of the paddle away from the canoe.
This will tend to keep the canoe in its course, and the paddle will not
be drawn across the wake, which would affect the headway of the craft.
The lower the weight is placed in a canoe, or boat, the greater will
be its stability. Hence, in sailing a canoe, sit on the floor of the
craft, and when turning about, turn against the wind and not with it.
The experienced canoeist can shift his course readily, but the novice
must be cautious, even in a moderate breeze. It would be well to sail
in shallow water and to wear only bathing costume when learning to sail
a canoe. When tacking and sailing close-hauled the leeboard is the most
effective, but as the boards are thin both may be kept down without
greatly reducing the speed. When running before the wind both boards
may be raised to give the greatest speed.
* * * * *
¶Paint may be readily removed from windows by applying a cloth dipped
in hot vinegar or acetic acid. This applied to brushes will soften
them.
[Illustration: How To Build A Canoe
By Stillman Taylor
PART III
Fitting a Motor into a Paddling Canoe]
A stanchly built canoe of sufficient length and beam may be converted
into a light, serviceable, and convenient power boat by the
installation of a light-weight motor of about 2 hp. While the craft
thus becomes less available for shallow waters and cannot be used
so readily on trips where portages are necessary, a power canoe has
advantages in that longer trips may be undertaken with less regard for
weather conditions. Greater speed and the fact that physical power need
not be expended also increase the value and range of operations of such
a craft.
Unless a motor of extremely light weight is procured, a canoe of frail
construction and less than 16 ft. long is not likely to stand the jar
of the driving mechanism. The canoe illustrated in the page plate is 18
ft. long, of 36-in. beam, and strongly planked, decked, and braced. A
canoe of even broader beam would tend to give more stability in rough
water, and if it is desired to transport heavy camping packs, or other
material, in the craft, this factor should be observed particularly.
Likewise, the depth and draft must be considered, as the carrying
capacity and seaworthiness of a canoe depend in part on these factors.
The fitting of the various parts of the mechanism and accessories
must be done with the aim of balancing the load evenly. If properly
disposed, the weight of these parts should tend to lower the center of
gravity of the canoe, thus rendering it more stable.
The actual work of installing the motor and fittings should be preceded
by careful planning and the making of a full-size diagram of the stern
portion of the canoe as rebuilt. Too much care cannot be taken in this
work, as, if it is neglected, the craft may be rendered unsafe, or the
motor and fittings may not operate satisfactorily. The motor should be
set in the stern, as shown in the illustration, as this will permit
the use of a minimum of shafting and other fittings which must be
accommodated. The exact location of the motor may vary with canoes and
engines of different types. This should be tested out by placing the
motor in the canoe and noting the effect on its balance in the water.
For a canoe of the dimensions indicated, and a light-weight motor, 5
ft. from the stern is a satisfactory position. The motor should be
placed as low in the canoe as possible, allowing the flywheel and crank
case sufficient clearance below.
A convenient method of operation is as follows: Place the canoe on
boxes, or sawhorses, taking care that it is properly supported about
2 ft. from the ground, or floor. Take measurements directly from the
canoe, or part to be fitted, whenever convenient. Procure two sheets
of paper, 30 in. wide and 7 ft. long; mark one “diagram” and the other
“templates,” and use the former for the full-size detail and the other
for the making of templates for curved or irregular parts.
Begin the diagram by drawing the base line AB, Fig. 3. This is the
lower line of the engine bed and the upper surface of the ribs. Draw
the line CD perpendicular to the base line, and 18 in. from the left
end of the sheet. The point C is the center of the stern end of the
driving shaft. The dimensions of parts are not given, except in special
instances, since they must be obtained from the particular canoe and
other parts entering into the construction. Indicate the layer of
ribs E, the planking F, and the keel G. Using the template sheet, cut
a template or pattern for the curved stern. This may be readily and
accurately done by fixing a straightedge to the keel and permitting it
to extend to A. Rest the long edge of the sheet on the straightedge
when fitting the template to the curve. Use the template as a guide in
marking the curve on the diagram, as at HJ. The curve K, of the stern
decking, may be indicated similarly.
Determine the distance the motor is to be set from the stern and
indicate it by the perpendicular line L. Measuring from the base line,
indicate the height of the center of the motor shaft from the floor,
as at M. This should be made as low as possible, permitting sufficient
clearance for the flywheel and the crank case. Draw a straight line
from C to M, which will thus indicate the center line of the driving
shaft. This line is fundamental in determining the dimensions and
placing of certain parts and fittings, and should be established with
extreme care. The size and exact position of the engine bed N may
now be indicated. Its dimensions, given in detail in the perspective
sketch, Fig. 5, are suggestive only. They may be varied in order to
provide proper bearing on the floor, and so that the bolts holding
the bed may pass through ribs. The cross brace at the forward end is
important, and should be fitted carefully over a rib. The upper line
of the engine bed must not be confounded with the center line of the
shaft, for in many engines they are on a horizontal line when viewed
from the forward end, yet not necessarily so. The slant of the engine
bed must be made accurately, as any deflection from the angle of the
center line of the shaft will disarrange the installation.
The shaft log O may next be indicated and a template made for use in
guiding the bit when boring the hole for the shaft through it. The
template used for the curve HJ may be altered by drawing the shaft log
on it at the proper place. The point P, from which the bit is to be
started when the shaft log is fixed into place, should be indicated and
the center line of the shaft extended to Q, may then be used as a guide
for the bit. If the homemade type of bearing R is used, it should be
indicated on the diagram. A metal bearing may be made, or a suitable
one obtained from dealers in marine hardware. In the latter case it
will probably be necessary to block up the bottom of the canoe in order
to provide a flat, horizontal bearing surface for the bearing flange.
The rudder and other parts, which are not directly connected with the
motive-power unit, may be indicated in detail on the diagram or be
made from sketches of a smaller scale. Paper patterns, made full size,
offer a convenient method of outlining the parts of the engine bed,
the rudder, and other irregular pieces. When the diagram is complete,
measurements may be transferred directly from it without reducing them
to figures, and, wherever possible, parts should be fitted to it.
The shaft log, shaft bearing, and engine bed may be made of oak, or
other strong hard wood. It will be found desirable to have the engine
bed complete before an attempt is made to fit the shaft and its
connections. It is made of 1¹⁄₂-in. stock, bolted together with lag
screws and fixed firmly into the canoe with bolts. The heads of the
bolts should be provided with cotton and red-lead packing, and care
should be taken that the bolts pass through ribs.
The shaft log should be fixed into place before it is bored. Bolts
may be passed through it and fastened on the inside if there is room
for drawing up the nuts in the stern. Large screws may be used to aid
in the fastening and smaller screws may be used from the inside. The
lower rudder support will also aid in holding the log in place, and the
iron straps S, Fig. 3, will insure its rigidity. This is an important
point in the construction, as if the log is not fixed positively, the
thrashing of the propeller will soon loosen it.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
FIG. 5
A Light-Weight, Two-Horsepower Motor Installed in a Stanch 18-Foot
Canoe will Increase the Range and Utility of Such a Craft; the
Construction Shown Is Simple and within the Capabilities of a Careful
Novice of Fair Mechanical Skill. A View of the Stern from Above is
Shown in Fig. 1. The Engine is Shown Mounted on the Engine Bed,
and near the Stern the Shaft Block is Shown. A Partial Sectional
View is Shown in Fig. 2. The Relation of the Engine and Bed, Shaft
and Fittings, Shaft Block, Shaft Log, and Rudder are Shown. The
Construction Diagram, Fig. 3, is Described in Detail in the Text. A
Larger-Scale View and a Section of the Shaft Block are Indicated in
Fig. 4, and Fig. 5 Illustrates the Engine Bed with Dimensions and
Fastening Holes]
A detail of the shaft bearing R is shown in Fig. 4. The hole to receive
the shaft must be bored accurately, and the use of the template, as
with the boring of the shaft log, is advisable. Flanged metal bearings
are provided to take up the wear in the bearing block. The method of
fastening the block, as shown in the detail view, insures a rigid
bearing with a minimum of holes through the bottom of the canoe. A
U-bolt, T, binds the double angle brace U and the block firmly to the
keel. The angles of the brace are fixed into the sides of the canoe
with bolts, and a bolt at the stern end of the block supports it
further. The block should be placed so that it will bear on three ribs
and must be fitted to the curve of the canoe.
The rudder is made of sheet metal supported on a rod or pipe. Its
general dimensions are shown in Fig. 2. The fan of the rudder is
riveted to its supports and rests in a bearing strip of ¹⁄₄ by 1-in.
strap iron, which is shaped as a guard for the propeller. The upper
bearing of the rudder post is formed from a strip of iron, bolted to
the stern, and the upper guide bar, to which the ropes are attached, is
cut from an iron strip.
The propeller is 8 in. in diameter, but may be installed of a size
suitable to the power, speed, and type of the motor used. The stuffing
box V, Fig. 2, the bearings for the bearing block R, the intake
strainer W, the exhaust outlet X, Fig. 1, and the shaft coupling Y are
all of manufactured types that may be purchased of marine-supply houses.
The intake strainer W is placed in the bottom directly below the pump
Z. The exhaust outlet X is placed above the water line, and a muffler
should be installed to avoid noise from the exhaust explosions. The
exhaust may be conducted under water or to a point near the stern. No
indication is given for the placing of the gasoline tank, the supply
pipes, electrical-energy source, and wiring. The tank may be placed in
the stern of the canoe high enough to provide a good flow. A magneto
may be used to give current for the sparking circuit, or batteries may
be provided. They may be placed at any point convenient, and should be
incased in a waterproof container.
In assembling the parts care must be taken not to wrench the shaft
or other pieces out of line, and in general, it is well to fix
nonadjustable parts solidly when they are fitted into place. This
applies particularly to the engine bed and the shaft log. The bearing
block may be adjusted vertically by adding packing, or by reducing
the lower surface. The rudder and its fittings may be made in regular
course, but should not be fitted until the power unit and driving
mechanism is in place finally. The propeller may be protected from
possible injury by laying it aside until needed. All the openings in
the hull through which bolts or other fastenings are placed should be
packed with red lead or other waterproof packing. The working parts
and finished metal surfaces should be oiled or greased thoroughly as
the parts are assembled, and the unfinished metal parts painted with
red lead. This will protect them from moisture and aid in the smooth
operation of the mechanism.
How to Make a Fluorescent Screen
Many experimenters have occasion to use a fluorescent screen,
particularly those interested in X-ray work. Such a device is quite
expensive if purchased, and may be made as follows:
Mix 1 oz. each of common salt, sodium tungstate, and calcium chloride.
Place the mixture in a crucible and heat it dull red in a coal fire,
for several hours. It will melt into a clear liquid, and should then
be removed and permitted to cool. The liquid will crystallize into a
hard glasslike mass. Break this out of the crucible and crush it into
small pieces. Put them into a jar of clear water. The sodium chloride
resulting from the chemical change by heating, will gradually dissolve
and the calcium tungstate will fall to the bottom in fine crystals.
Wash this precipitate until all trace of the salt disappears; then pour
the crystals upon a sheet of filter or blotting paper to dry. After
drying, place them in a mortar and grind them to a fine powder, when
they will be ready for use.
To make the screen proper, procure a piece of thin white cardboard
of the size desired. The calendered board known as three-ply is
satisfactory. Paint the cardboard on one side with a thick solution
of gum arabic in water, or better still, with celluloid dissolved in
amyl acetate. Permit the gum to become “tacky” before dusting with the
chemical. The latter process requires care, to produce an even layer
on the cardboard, and it is advisable to practice with ordinary salt
before attempting it on the cardboard for the screen. The calcium
tungstate should be placed in a dry jar, and a piece of fine muslin
fixed over the mouth of it. The chemical may be dusted over the surface
with this sieve jar.
Shake off the superfluous crystals and permit the screen to dry
thoroughly. Fasten a piece of mica, or sheet celluloid, over the
sensitized surface to prevent damage to it. Mount the sensitized
cardboard in a wooden frame of suitable size and arrange a hood around
its edges to cut out unnecessary light. The sensitive side of the
screen is, of course, held toward the observer when the apparatus is
used.--Contributed by Chester Keene, Hoboken, N. J.
Preventing Wire Mesh from Rising between Fence Posts
Fences which inclose pastures for hogs, or other smaller animals, are
usually stretched to give rigidity and strength. Often the adjustment
of the wire, after being put into place, causes it to rise from the
ground between the fence posts, permitting the animals to escape. An
effective method of holding the wire close to the ground is shown in
the sketch. A peg, notched near its upper end, is driven into the
ground so that the lower edge of the wire mesh is held fast in the
notch.--Contributed by O. B. Laurent, New Roads, La.
[Illustration: The Notched Stake Holds the Wire Mesh Down between the
Posts Where It Has a Tendency to Rise from the Ground]
Jig-Saw Table for Vise
Those who have occasional work to be done with a jig saw will find the
simple device shown in the sketch convenient. It provides a table for
sawing light work. By holding it in a vise, as shown, a rigid support
may be had. The table is made of a rectangular piece of ³⁄₄-in. wood,
8 in. wide and 10 in. long. At one end, a strip, 1 in. square, is
attached for clamping in the vise. The other end is notched to provide
a place for the saw while in use.--Contributed by Victor A. Rettich,
New York, N. Y.
[Illustration: The Jig-Saw Table Provides a Rigid Support for Light
Fretwork]
An Emergency Dark-Room Light
[Illustration]
The traveling man who “lives in a suitcase” and at the same time wishes
to enjoy the pleasures of amateur photography sometimes experiences
difficulty in developing films in a hotel room. Soup plates borrowed
from the steward, or even the bowl pitcher and the ice-water pitcher in
the room, can be used for development, but it is very hard to improvise
a ruby lamp. My emergency lamp is a small vest-pocket flash lamp over
which two yellow envelopes, one inside of the other, are slipped, as
shown. The lower edges are cut perfectly square and rest on the table,
or shelf, in the closet, and all white light is excluded. At night, the
shades may be drawn, and a yellow-paper sack may be tied around the
electric light.--Contributed by J. L. Pinkston, Granite Hill, Ga.
An Ice Creeper
[Illustration]
The illustration shows a one-piece ice creeper for the heel of a boot
or shoe. It is made from sheet steel with the arms bent up to receive a
strap for buckling it in place on the boot heel. The zigzag cuts in the
bottom part are turned down for engaging the ice.--Contributed by Chas.
S. Snell, Lewiston, Me.
* * * * *
¶In machine work a way must be provided for removing dowel pins
before they are driven in place.
Waterproofing for Fish Lines
Dissolve ¹⁄₂ oz. of orange shellac in ¹⁄₂ pt. of alcohol, and add 1
teaspoonful of Venice turpentine, the same quantity of raw linseed oil,
and 2 oz. tincture of benzoin. Shake well, and set in a varnish can in
hot water.
Soak the coiled line in the varnish for two hours, then hang it up to
dry. Thin the varnish with alcohol, and repeat the dipping. When the
line is dry, rub it down well with a wool rag greased with tallow. Silk
lines treated in this manner are pliable, and the fibers of the silk
are so united by the varnish that the strength of the line is almost
doubled.
Making Chest Lock More Secure
[Illustration]
As a rule, ordinary chest locks cannot be relied upon, since almost
any kind of a similar key will unlock them. I found a good remedy by
taking out the pin on which the key fits, and making a new one twice as
long as the one removed, then drilling a hole in the key deep enough
to fit over the new pin. In case the pin extends too far, a piece of
wood block, with a hole in it to admit the key, can be fastened over it
to prevent bending the pin. No ordinary key will pass on the pin far
enough to turn the lock.--Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington,
Pa.
Driving Screws in Hard Wood
Keep the supply of screws in a box containing a small amount of
powdered soapstone. Shake the box occasionally, and the screws will
be dusted with the powder, which acts as a lubricant. This is a much
cleaner and more convenient method than the ordinary one of rubbing
each screw on a bar of soap before driving it in hard wood.
[Illustration: Paddling Your Own Canoe
by
Stillman Taylor
PART I--Kinds of Canoes]
The charm of the birchen canoe has long been sung in verse and prose,
and while the bark that the Indian used has been supplanted by a more
perfect type of modern manufacture, the popularity of this, the most
graceful of water craft, has increased with years, until today we find
the canoe the choice of thousands of recreation seekers who paddle
about in park lakes and quiet streams, or spend their vacations in
cruising down rivers and other attractive waterways--sometimes within
the environs of towns and villages, and again dipping paddles in the
wilderness streams of the far north. True, the modern canoe is a
distinct product of the twentieth century, and while it is so largely
used at summer resorts, it nevertheless retains all the good points
of the old, while embodying numerous improvements which fit it even
better for wilderness travel than the Indian model after which it was
patterned. The noteworthy increase in the number of canoeists in the
past dozen years is good evidence that this natty craft is fast coming
into its own, and as more and more outdoor men and women understand its
possibilities and limitations and become proficient in handling it, the
long-rooted fear and distrust with which the uninformed public regard
the canoe, will pass away. As a matter of fact, accidents ever follow
in the wake of ignorance and carelessness, and while there are very
few expert gunners injured by firearms, and still fewer experienced
canoeists drowned, there are numerous sad accidents constantly
occurring to the reckless and foolhardy, who do not know how to handle
a weapon, nor understand the first thing about paddling a canoe. Let
us consider then, the practical side of the subject, the choice of a
suitable canoe and the knack of handling it in a safe and efficient
manner.
If one would experience in full measure the many-sided charm of
paddling, he should get a good canoe. Unlike other and heavier water
craft, the canoe is a lightly balanced and responsive conveyance,
which may be cranky and dangerous, or safe and stable, according
to the model, the skill of the builder, and the dexterity of the
paddler. There are canoes and canoes, of varying models and sizes, and
constructed of many materials, and while all may serve as a means of
getting about in the water, the paddling qualities include numerous
little idiosyncrasies which serve to differentiate canoes as well as
men. In fact, this light and graceful craft may be properly viewed as
the highest type of boat building, since it must be fashioned strong
but light; it must be steady when going light; capable of carrying
comparatively heavy loads; draw little water, and it must be honestly
constructed of good material to stand up under the hard usage which
every canoe is subjected to, whether used for summer paddling, or upon
long hunting and shooting trips.
Three types of canoes are in common use by experienced canoeists, the
birch-bark, the all-wood, and the canvas-covered cedar canoe. The
birch-bark, by reason of its rougher workmanship, is slow under the
paddle, is easily injured, and it grows heavier and more difficult to
handle every time it is used. The all-wood canoe is most expensive to
buy, and though swift under the paddle, is too easily injured and too
difficult to repair for rough and ready use. The cedar-planked canoe
which is covered with filled and painted canvas is for many reasons the
best all-around craft-attractive enough for park use, and stout enough
for use in rapid water and for cruising in northern lakes and rivers.
How to Select a Birch-Bark Canoe
The Indian-made birch-bark canoe costs about $1 a foot and is fashioned
of birch bark over an ash, or spruce, frame. The bark is not nailed
to the frame, but is sewed together with boiled spruce, or tamarack,
roots, split to a suitable size. To give the proper shape to the canoe
a double row of stakes are firmly planted in the ground and the spruce
frame is sprung between them. The bark is put on inside out, and the
work of sewing together is done while the bark is fresh, or immediately
after it is stripped from the tree. The seams are afterward made
water-tight by smearing well with spruce gum, which hardens quickly
and makes a fairly good joint. The Indian model is a good one so far
as the freeboard, width of beam, and flaring stems are concerned, but
the curved bottom makes it extremely cranky and dangerous for the
novice to handle. Be sure to see that the birch-bark canoe is fashioned
with a flat, straight bottom, which makes the craft steadier and less
inclined to veer about under the stroke of the paddle. In an expert’s
hands the round bottom will be found a decided advantage, making it
faster to paddle and more easily turned and steered in swift and rough
water. Many prefer the three-piece bottom, but the bottom made of a
single piece of bark is stronger and less likely to open up and leak.
All birch canoes will warp and twist somewhat, and it is practically
impossible to find one that is straight and true. The birch-bark canoe
has many limitations and not a few weaknesses, but if one has the good
luck to find a good one, and treats it fairly, it will prove a safe and
dry craft for many hundreds of miles’ travel. Of course, one must carry
a kettle of pitch for making repairs, and be content to travel somewhat
slower than with modern canoes, but this may not be a disadvantage.
Birch canoes have no seats, as the Indian kneels when paddling, but a
low thwart, or seat, is easy to put in at the bow and stern, if one
prefers the white man’s paddling position.
All-Wood or Peterborough Canoe
This type of craft is much used in Canada along the St. Lawrence River,
and to a much less extent by American sportsmen, owing to its higher
cost, and its tendency to break and cause a leak. Of course, the
all-wood canoe is a good craft, but everything considered, there can be
no question in the minds of canoeists who are acquainted with all types
of canoes, that the all-cedar or basswood craft is less dependable than
the canvas-covered cedar canoe. The Peterborough type--so called from
a Canadian city of this name where many wood canoes are made--with its
relatively low ends and straight sides with but little sheer and tumble
home, is the model commonly used by practically all manufacturers of
the all-wood canoe. While a boat of this kind can be, and often is,
used in rough-water lake paddling as well as in wilderness travel, the
all-wood canoe is better suited for club use, and in the wider and more
quiet-flowing streams and lakes.
[Illustration: The Best All-Around Craft, for Two Men and a Reasonable
Amount of Camp Duffle, Is a Canvas-Covered Cedar Canoe, 16 Feet Long,
32-Inch Beam, and 12 Inches Amidships, Weighing About 60 Pounds]
The Canvas-Covered Cedar Canoe
The canvas-covered cedar canoe, when rightly made of the best material,
is by all odds the best paddling craft afloat, being strong and light,
with a hull so smooth that it is swift to paddle, while the mode of
construction makes a very stiff craft, which will not warp or twist
out of shape. Moreover, it will stand a vast amount of hard usage and
abuse, while repairs are quickly and neatly done by the stream side.
In the making of a first-class canoe of this type, the ribs are first
steamed and then bent and fitted over a solid form; cedar being used
for the ribs and planking; spruce for the gunwales, and white ash,
or oak, for the stems and thwarts. In a canoe built according to my
instructions, each plank runs to the full length of the craft and all
are beveled and lapped together, thus making a perfectly smooth and
almost water-tight canoe, before the canvas is cemented on its surface.
The canvas is thoroughly waterproofed before it is put on, then it is
drawn tightly over the planking, and several coats of filler and the
final finish of paint are applied, after which it is rubbed down.
The well-made canvas-covered canoe is, if properly designed, a pretty
good facsimile of the representative Indian model in that it possesses
all the good points of the birch-bark canoe, but is more substantially
constructed, of better and more durable material, and more finely
finished. In making the selection, it is necessary to pay a fair price
to obtain a good craft, and while various manufacturers supply canoes
of similar types at different prices, some of them are so inferior that
they will scarcely stand a season’s use. Of course, the use to which a
canoe is put will influence the selection. If the craft is wanted for
long service on hunting and fishing trips, a high-grade canoe of plain
finish is the logical choice. If the canoe is for club use, a highly
finished craft with mahogany trimmings may be preferred. A canoe for
occasional use on some quiet lake or small stream may be selected from
the cheaper kinds, which will, no doubt, answer every purpose. However,
most manufacturers list what they call an “A” and a “B” grade. The “A”
grade provides selected-cedar ribs and planking; oak for gunwales,
stems, thwarts and seats selected from the finest material, and the
finish the best that can be procured, while the “B” grade is identical
in model, canvas and paint, but the material not quite so clear or free
from minor defects, though for all practical purposes it will render
as much service and give fully as much satisfaction as the first, or
“A,” grade. A little saving may be made by selecting the second-grade
canoe, having most of the money invested in the canoe and not so much
in the finer finishings. The ordinary construction provides for the
ordinary solid topwale, but the open gunwale is sometimes preferred,
because the openings make washing easy, all sand and dirt running out
freely between the wales. This construction detail is supplied by most
manufacturers, when specified, at a slight additional cost.
[Illustration: The Important Parts of a Canoe, Giving Names for the
Information of the Novice]
Points to be Considered
The particular shape, combined with the dimensions, of the canoe is
commonly called the model, and since many canoe builders offer several
different models it is a comparatively easy matter to find a craft
which fully meets one’s ideas of a canoe. Canoes can be had as small as
10 ft. long and weighing as little as 18 lb., while others are built
all the way up to 35 ft. and ranging around 50 in. wide. For all-around
use, that is for cruising, hunting, and fishing, the 16-ft. length,
with 32-in. beam, 12 in. deep amidships, and weighing about 60 lb.,
will meet the approval of the experienced canoeist. In a good canoe of
this size a flat floor, medium-high ends, and a fair amount of tumble
home--to add stability and keep the water from shooting inboard--may be
reckoned the “earmarks” of a general-purpose craft. For exclusive river
work, where many rapids are encountered, a lightly rounded bottom, a
trifle lower in the center than at the ends, will be easier to handle
in white water, while comparatively narrow ends will give more speed
under the paddle.
All canvas-covered canoes are provided with brass bang plates, or
irons, at stern and bow, and if wanted, an outside keel may be
furnished. In most cases this is not essential, but when the canoe
is largely used in rocky rivers a broad keel of ¹⁄₂-in. oak, or ash,
2¹⁄₂ in. wide in the center and tapered at both ends to fit the brass
bang irons, will protect the bottom from hard knocks. The narrow 1-in.
keel is an out-and-out nuisance, making the canoe slow to turn and
furnishing but scant protection for the bottom. Any keel adds to the
weight of the craft, and weight is a factor that must be considered
when much portaging is done. So far as capacity is concerned, a canoe,
16 ft. long, 32-in. beam, and 12-in. amidship depth, will accommodate
two men and the usual amount of camp duffle, weighing from 350 to 400
lb. On short trips, a 15-ft. canoe may be made to accommodate two men,
while on very long cruises, where a larger amount of duffle must be
taken along, an 18-ft. canoe may be needed. For three persons, the 17
or 18-ft. canoe, of 34-in. beam, is about right, but for a party of
four it is better to use two 16-ft. canoes than one large craft. In
fact, canoes longer than 18 ft. are more properly regarded as freight
craft and only used on special trips.
Moccasins, or rubber-soled footwear, are most suitable for the
canoeist’s wear, but since heavy-heeled shoes are often worn, it is a
good plan to protect the thin planking by running a slatted floor, 8
or 10 in. wide, in the center of the canoe. Provide this grating with
brass buttons, and it will be held firmly in place, but removable at
any time. For convenience in towing, a small but flexible rope--braided
cotton is always soft and pliable--about 20 ft. long, should be tied
at both bow and stern. The ordinary “painter eye,” which fastens with
a bolt screwed to the under side of the breast hooks, is good, but a
small hole, through which the rope is securely knotted, will serve as
well.
Paddles
The best material for paddles is good selected spruce, and while this
material is not so heavy nor will stand hard knocks so well as maple or
birch, its lightness makes it the choice of many paddlers. For rough
work the maple paddle may be chosen, and while heavier than spruce, it
possesses greater elasticity, and this spring offsets to a great extent
the larger weight of material. Cedar, ash, and pine make excellent
paddles, and the Indians often fashion them from these woods.
In selecting a single-blade paddle, it is well to remember that the
length will depend on the paddler’s height, for it is self-evident
that a tall man will require a longer paddle than a short person can
conveniently swing. Hence the usual rule is to pick out a paddle as
long as the paddler is tall, and is a sensible one to follow, although
there are exceptions. Personal preferences differ, and, also, a longer
paddle will be required when paddling from seats than when a kneeling
position is adopted. For general use, the stern paddle of 5¹⁄₂-ft.
length will be long enough, while the bow paddle of 5 ft. will probably
suit the average man. Ladies, boys, and girls will need shorter lengths.
The shape of the paddle blades varies somewhat, and while some prefer
a broad blade and others a narrow one, it is well to pick out one
of medium size. Large blades are tiresome for long trips, while the
narrow blade balances best in the hand, but affords less resistance in
the water. When picking out a spruce paddle, see that there is plenty
of wood at the juncture of the blade and shaft, for it is at this
point most paddles break. Spruce being a comparatively soft wood, it
will fur badly, and the blades should be fitted with copper tips to
prevent splitting. Maple paddles do not need this protection, but most
builders err in making them too thick and heavy. Pick out the lightest
and thinnest maple paddle that can be found, one that is fashioned
of straight-grained wood, and test it for elasticity before making
the purchase. A couple of coats of spar varnish will keep the paddles
in good shape, but as a varnished surface is hard on the hands, most
veteran canoeists varnish the blades and finish the shafts with oil. An
extra paddle will, of course, be carried on all long trips.
[Illustration: Canoe Yoke Equipped with Adjustable Shoulder Pads, and
the Pneumatic Carrier That Serves Two Purposes]
The single-blade paddle is quite universally used, but the double-blade
gives more spread for the lone paddler. Although the double-blade was
designed for the “Rob Roy” type of canoe--a one-man craft, decked
both fore and aft, the paddler sitting in a cockpit in the center--it
is sometimes used for propelling the open Canadian canoe, and when
the canoeist travels alone, the double-blade is a good choice,
especially on open waters where much wind and high seas are likely to
be encountered. Spruce is the best material for double paddles, and
10 ft. is the best length. As all double-bladed paddles are provided
with a ferrule, or friction joint, in the center, they may be unjointed
and each used as a pair of single paddles. In case the open end of the
metal ferrule is objectionable, a wood plug may be fitted to provide a
palm grip, similar to the grip of the single paddle.
Portages for Carrying the Canoe
When the weight of the canoe does not exceed 65 lb., it is easily
carried by placing the paddle blades over the center thwart, the
ends under the next after thwart and lashing them securely in place;
then placing a sweater or coat over the shoulder to form a pad on
which to rest the paddles to carry the canoe in an inverted position.
However, when long portages must be undertaken the “neck yoke,” or the
pneumatic canoe yoke, may be used. The neck yoke is fashioned from a
block of pine, or other soft wood, to fit the curve of the shoulders,
and the ends fit in the grooves made in the gunwales; or small pieces
of wood may be screwed to the under side of the gunwale to serve the
same purpose. The pneumatic cushion, which fits around the neck and is
provided with straps to secure the paddles in position, is well-liked
by some canoeists, but the wood neck yoke fits so well that it is
hard to find a good substitute. A large and heavy craft can be easily
carried by two men by turning the craft bottom side up and resting the
weight on the back and shoulders. If the man at the stern lets the
gunwale rest on his shoulders and his companion lower the front thwart
to rest against his neck and shoulders, both may carry a light pack of
duffle and will have a clear view of the trail ahead.
To Practice Batting for Baseball Playing
[Illustration: Learning to Strike a Ball without the Aid of a Pitcher
or Fielder]
A boy with a very great desire to make a good ball player found that
he could not hit a ball tossed to him. Try as he might, the bat never
hit the ball. Some one suggested that a ball hung by a cord would
help to a great extent, and it was tried out with excellent results.
An inexpensive ball was suspended from the limb of a tree so that it
would be at the proper height for the batter. In striking at the ball
it was not necessary to make home-run hits, as this is liable to break
the cord, or get it tangled to its support. If the strikes are made
properly, the ball will swing out and come back in a perfect curve,
or can be made to come back bounding and in no straight line. This
will teach the eye to locate the ball and make hits where it cannot be
taught by having some one toss the ball to the striker.
Making Impressions of Leaves
A very true and artistic impression of a leaf, or similar object,
can be made as follows: Grease a piece of heavy writing paper with
linseed oil, and smoke the surface well by lighting a small piece of
camphor gum and holding the paper over the flame. Place the leaf on the
smoked surface of the paper and cover it with several thicknesses of
newspaper, then press the leaf into the blackened surface. Remove the
leaf and lay it with the blackened surface on a piece of white paper,
then cover again with the newspaper and press evenly and thoroughly. A
beautiful and permanent impression of the leaf will be transferred to
the paper.
Care should be taken not to move the leaf the least bit either in
coating it with the smoke or in transferring it to the paper. Be
careful not to use too much oil. This process can be used to stamp
cloth for embroidery. A candle can be used in place of the camphor if
care is exercised, but the camphor gives a very dense smoke with a
minimum of heat.--Contributed by J. H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.
[Illustration]
Making T-Squares
BY J. B. Murphy
The making of a single article of any kind presents a distinct problem
in itself, but the production of a large number of the same article
must be done in a different way, if efficiency and uniformity in the
product are desirable qualities. Taking, for instance, the making of
a large number of T-squares, the material is not made up in the same
manner as for one. Where a number of these instruments was required,
they were made as follows, with no other Equipment than bench tools and
a band saw. The squares were made of mahogany having both stock and
blade edged with maple. The blades were fastened to the stock with five
³⁄₈-in. button-head screws.
[Illustration: Dimensions for a T-Square of Which a Number where to be
Made in Duplicate]
The material for the heads and the blades was glued up and finished
to the sizes given at A and B. The material was cut to gauge lines on
the band saw, the blades being a scant ¹⁄₈ in. in thickness, and the
stocks, ³⁄₈ in. Two of each were cut from each prepared piece, first
from one side and then from the other. They were then faced off on both
sides, and two more pieces cut. With careful cutting, six blades and
six stocks were made from each piece. This left one side of each piece
to be planed after sawing. The holes for the screws were drilled with a
small hand drill.
[Illustration: Stock and Blade Material for Making the Parts, and the
Jig for Assembling]
For assembling, a jig was made by nailing a piece of stock, ³⁄₈ in.
thick, to a straight drawing board. One end of the piece was planed
straight and true before it was fastened in place. Stops were provided
to locate the stock and hold the blade square with it. Wedges were
used to keep both stock and blade against the stops while the screws
were inserted. The wedges were not driven with a hammer, but pushed in
firmly with the fingers.
* * * * *
¶Insert a scratch awl in common hard soap for hardening, and it will
need no drawing after the plunge.
[Illustration: Paddling Your Own Canoe
by
Stillman Taylor
PART II--The Knack of Handling the Paddle]
The knack of paddling a canoe as the majority of amateurs paddle is
quickly learned, but to handle a paddle as the expert woodsman and
the Indian wield it requires not a little practice and experience. In
the birch-bark and canvas-covered craft, used by the guides of Maine
and Canada, there are no seats, and the stern paddler kneels with his
back against the rear thwart, while the bow paddler usually kneels
with his back against the second thwart from the bow. However, the
builders of modern canoes furnish a seat for each paddler, and while
it is more comfortable to use them, it is better to take the kneeling
position, which brings the weight lower in the canoe, as it is safer,
and the paddler is better able to control his craft. Again, the use of
the seat makes it impossible for the paddler to put much of his body
into the stroke, and he propels the craft largely through the muscles
of his arms and shoulders. But when paddling from the knees they are
spread out to brace the body firmly, and the back resting against
the thwart enables the paddler to use his back and thigh muscles to
drive his craft ahead with much less exertion and waste of energy than
when sitting erect. Of course, the kneeling position is a source of
discomfort at first, but after a little practice it will be easy to
keep the position for several hours.
The stroke of the paddle is made with the body motionless, one hand
grasping the shaft of the paddle and the other holding it a short
distance above the blade. The paddle is now carried forward, dipped
into the water in front, Fig. 1, A and B, and carried downward past
the paddler’s body, Fig. 2, A and B, and the stroke is finished in the
rear, Fig. 3, A and B. The paddle is recovered by turning the wrist so
that the blade is turned edgewise as it is swung through the air to
begin the second stroke. The swing of the paddle should be smooth from
the beginning to the finish of the stroke, that is, free from undue
jerkiness, but the long and slow sweep of the paddle is amateurish,
pure and simple. The canoemen of the North woods do not use this
stroke, but prefer a shorter stroke, quick recovery of the blade, and
the “accent” of the stroke is much the same as that the expert axman
uses when felling a tree. Therefore one’s energy should be concentrated
upon the first part of the stroke, easing up quickly as soon as the
blade is opposite the body, and finishing the stroke smartly as it is
carried backward. The driving power of the paddle diminishes rapidly
as the blade is carried backward, and if the full force of the stroke
is continued with a long backward sweep, a way of most amateurs, much
energy is wasted, since it adds nothing to the forward momentum of
the canoe, but rather retards it, by forcing down the stern, and also
causes the craft to drag more water after it. For a short afternoon
paddle almost any kind of a stroke will suffice to drive the canoe
ahead, but upon long trips, or when head winds and rough water are
encountered, the quick, short stroke will save both time and muscle.
The long sweeping stroke of the summer idler will probably average
about 26 to 30 strokes per minute, while the North-woods guide and
Indian will dip their blades almost twice as often, a fair cruising
average being about 45 strokes per minute. Short strokes, with the
accent at the beginning of the stroke, will push the canoe faster and
with less effort, and the paddler has better control over his craft.
[Illustration: FIG. 1-A
FIG. 2-A
FIG. 3-A
FIG. 1-B
FIG. 2-B
FIG. 3-B
The Stroke of the Paddle is Made with the Body Motionless, One Hand
Grasping the Shaft of the Paddle and the Other Holding It a Short
Distance above the Blade]
The bow paddler usually does nothing more than keep up a regular stroke
and watch for rocks and obstructions, but if he is a good hand at the
paddle he can do much to steer the canoe. For example, take the usual
bow stroke, made by dipping the paddle quite close and ahead of the
canoe. The force of the stroke thus made forces the bow in the opposite
direction, and the man in the stern will be called upon to use more
energy in steering. In contrast to this faulty handling of the paddle,
the experienced bowman will begin his stroke by dipping his paddle well
out from the bow and pulling it toward him at a greater angle, which
keeps the canoe moving straight ahead without swinging to one side,
and the energy of both paddlers is used in driving the craft steadily
ahead. When paddling in tortuous and rocky streams it is the bow
paddler’s duty to watch out for rocks and snags, and he should always
be prepared to “draw” the canoe whenever it is necessary to clear an
obstruction or assist the stern paddler to shoot the canoe around an
abrupt bend. To do this is simple enough, since the bowman merely
reaches his paddle out at arm’s length over the side and pulls the bow
in that direction, while the stern paddler simply paddles straight
ahead.
The stern paddler is the helmsman of the canoe, and while he can keep
his craft on a straight course by trailing his paddle at the end of
each stroke and using it like a rudder, it can only be done when a
long, slow stroke is used. To save time and muscle, the experienced
stern paddler always finishes his stroke with an outward push and a
turn of the wrist, which offsets the swing of the bow and keeps the
canoe on a straight course with much less effort than when trailing the
paddle astern. Paddling from the stern is often considered difficult,
but one soon masters it by a little experience.
Paddling in Open and White Water
[Illustration: Dangerous for the Novice, but Experts Win Races in This
Position]
When traveling in the open waters of large lakes where heavy winds
and seas are commonly encountered, paddling should always be done on
the knees, and the canoeist’s own experience and judgment must be
called upon to meet constantly changing conditions of the wind and
water. To cross a broad stretch of wind-swept water where whitecaps
are running high, means a long, hard fight, and the stern paddler must
be ever alert to ease the canoe through breaking crests and shift his
balance whenever the necessity arises. When paddling in rough water,
many canoeists make the mistake of driving their craft too hard,
consequently the canoe will “pound” when it reaches the trough of the
sea, and much unnecessary spray is sent flying aboard. Of course, in
rough water some spray is certain to come over the rail, but if the
craft is well balanced by stowing the camp duffle so that the canoe
floats on an even keel, it will, with proper handling, weather a pretty
stiff gale.
When paddling against a heavy sea and wind, the regular stroke must be
altered and modified, and the man in the stern may often balance his
craft by holding his paddle in the water while a particular high comber
sweeps by. Short and clean strokes are essential for handling the
canoe in a heavy sea, and while the skillful canoeist can handle his
craft in the trough of the sea when the need arises, it is hazardous
for the novice to attempt it. In heavy weather, it is a good thing to
keep one paddle in the water while the other is in the air, hence the
experienced canoeist will--unconsciously perhaps--alternate or “split”
strokes with his bowman.
To paddle, head on, into heavy seas is slow and tiresome work, and most
canoeists find it easier to take the seas on the quarter, and the stern
paddler must be ever on the lookout, nursing his craft over the big
ones and often turning his bow into the largest combers. To be sure,
the canoe will plunge more or less and yaw about, but the stern paddler
merely checks this side spin, since he cannot prevent it entirely and
drive his craft onward at the same time. When running before the wind,
it is only necessary to keep the canoe balanced or “trimmed” to keep
things dry. Here the bow paddler has the best of it; his sole duty is
to keep paddling steadily ahead, while the balancing and handling of
the canoe rests with the man in the stern. This point is well worth
remembering, for to keep the canoe right side up when shooting rapids
or when bucking heavy seas or a lake, the bow paddler must stick to his
seat. He can, from his position in the bow, quickly note rocks or other
obstructions and pass the word to his partner, who from his point of
advantage can likewise better size up the effect of a high wave upon
the craft. Probably more capsizes have resulted through the bowman’s
mistaken efforts to balance the canoe by leaning to one side, or
attempting to dodge the spray in rough-water paddling, than through the
inability of the stern paddler to handle his craft.
Running a rapid stream in a canoe is replete with excitement, but it
is likewise a dangerous bit of fun for the inexperienced canoeist who
has not fully mastered the handling of his craft. When running rapids
where the water is fairly deep, the use of the paddle is the better
way, providing both paddlers kneel in the bottom of the canoe. Unknown
streams are naturally the most dangerous, although the veteran canoeist
can “size” up the character of the stream at the first glance, that is,
the trained eye of the woodsman will read the bottom of the river by
the indications on the surface; depth of water, strength of current,
swirl caused by submerged rocks, and many other details are evident to
him. To the novice these signs mean but little. If the current flow is
from three to four miles per hour, rocks or submerged logs, 4 or 5 in.
below the surface, will show very little, but in a 10-mile or swifter
current obstructions 12 or even 18 in. below the surface will throw up
swirling ripples, and in a very rocky stream with much water flowing,
rocks 3 or 4 ft. below will throw up waves of good size. Again, waves
are caused by swift water striking the comparatively quiet water of a
deep pool and the canoeist should be able to determine the difference
between them in order to know what part of the stretch is dangerous and
that which may be run in safety.
The waves in a rapid stream are altogether unlike the rolling waves of
the open lake, in that the crests follow one another closely and the
canoe cannot rise, but plunges through the curling crests. Rocks on
the surface are easily avoided, as they split the current, and it is
only necessary to steer the craft to one side to pass them safely. The
one chief thing to do when shooting the rapids is to keep the canoe on
an even keel and the bow into the current, and when it is necessary
to change channels, the craft must be shot diagonally across the fast
water. To keep the canoe under perfect control in white water, it must
be propelled faster than the current flows, and the force of the stream
must not strike one side of the bow with greater force than it exerts
on the other side. When a canoe swings around in the current, the power
of the paddles will be unable to cope with the more powerful current,
which quickly swings it broadside and one is struggling in the water in
the next instant.
[Illustration: The Double Blade Is Often Useful When Paddling
Single-Handed on a Broad Reach of Wind-Swept Water]
On a long canoe trip where much rapid water must be run, a “setting
pole” should be reckoned a necessity. The pole may be a stout sapling,
10 ft. long, cut by the stream side, but an iron shoe, or spike,
about 3 in. long, with an iron band or ferrule, should be carried in
the kit, the iron spike being simply driven in the end of the green
pole. The pole may be used to good advantage when running down shallow
rapids, the man in the bow kneeling and using his paddle to help
steer while his partner stands in the stern and wields the pole. When
traveling up shallow and swift streams, the setting pole is absolutely
necessary, and while at first it is an awkward implement to handle,
a little practice will enable the canoeist to pole his craft with
very little more effort than is required to paddle it. The use of the
pole necessitates a standing position, but this is neither risky nor
difficult for any canoeist who understands the knack of balancing a
canoe, and none but an experienced canoeist has any business in swift,
white water. The setting pole is gripped with the left hand near the
top, with the right hand held stationary about 2 ft. lower, and as the
canoe travels past the pole, firmly planted on the river bottom, the
poler leans forward and makes use of his weight and strength to give a
quick push. The pole is again shoved forward as quickly as possible,
that the craft may lose as little headway as possible, and a new grip
secured for the next push. After a little experience with the pole,
the canoeist will find it an easy matter to swing his craft across
the current and avoid rocks and other obstructions as easily as when
paddling. When contemplating a long trip up a stream where the water is
heavy and the current swift, the use of two poles will make the work
easier. Both persons should pole from the same side, the man in the
bow doing the steering while the stern man adds his straight-ahead push
to force the canoe upstream.
[Illustration: Shifting the Paddle from One Side of the Canoe to The
Other]
The Track Line
The average wilderness stream of the North has enough “tight” places
which judgment tells the traveler to avoid by making a detour by land
rather than risk a capsize and a possible loss of the outfit. To
“tote” the outfit overland means more or less hard work, and as every
canoeist will avoid portaging if there is a fair chance of getting the
canoe through a bad stretch of water, the tracking line will come in
handy very often. The usual ring in the bow of the canoe is far too
flimsy for hauling the loaded craft, and sufficient length of stout
rope should be carried along to pass through the painter eye, and then
carried aft and half-hitched to the first and second thwarts. One man
can pull the canoe up a swift stream by walking along the bank while
his partner takes up the opposite side and steers the craft away from
rocks by using a stern line. With a heavily loaded canoe in very swift
and shallow water, both men must often wade, and a tump line rigged up
as a breast or shoulder strap will make it easier work for the man at
the bow line.
Paddling a Canoe Single-Handed
The open, or Canadian-model, canoe is, of course, handled more easily
and with better speed with two paddlers but there are occasions when
the canoe is used single-handed. When out for a few hours’ paddle, the
canoeist usually balances the craft by sitting on the bow seat--or
kneels on the bottom with his back against the bow-seat brace--and
using the stern for the bow. This brings the paddler’s weight nearer
the center and keeps the canoe better balanced than when paddling from
the stern with the bow high in the air. However, when the canoe is
loaded, many canoeists stow their camp duffle forward and paddle from
the stern, the weight of the outfit keeping the craft on an even keel.
This answers well enough for smooth-water going, but when the water is
rough, or a stretch of rapids is run single-handed, the stern position
is by no means a good one since the craft is more difficult to control,
and much more strength is required to drive it forward. The Indian
manner of paddling a canoe alone is the only correct one, for he always
sits amidships--kneeling in the center--and if a load is carried, it
is placed in front and back of him so that the craft is balanced on an
even keel. Consequently the canoe draws less water and can be paddled
faster with the same effort, while the paddler has the craft under
perfect control. But the experienced line paddler does not kneel in
the center, he moves out until his body is close to the gunwale. This
makes the craft heel at a decided angle, it is true, but this position
makes for better speed because it enables the paddle to be held almost
vertical, and the more nearly perpendicular the paddle is swung the
more efficient will be the stroke.
In using the double blade, the paddler dips first on one side, then
on the other, and to make the blades travel through the air with the
least resistance, it is customary to set them at right angles to each
other. The motion is really a push and pull, the shaft of the paddle
being rotated in the hands so that the blade will enter the water with
the full breadth facing the canoeist. Rubber cups, to catch the drip as
the paddle rises in the air when making the stroke, are sometimes used
by novices, but these are unnecessary if the paddles are set at right
angles, and the paddler will bend his wrist a trifle to throw the drip
ahead and to one side. At the beginning, the novice will very likely
throw a little water in the canoe, but a little practice will soon
master the knack.
Care and Repair of the Canoe
The canvas-covered cedar canoe will stand a vast amount of hard
service, but it should not be dragged over the ground or over the
boarding of the landing float, neither should it be so placed that any
strain will come amidships while the ends are well supported. When
storing for the winter, keep it under cover, resting bottom side down
on a floor, or turn it bottom side up and support it with boxes, or
other standards, at the center as well as at the ends. While unused at
the camp, turn it bottom side up on the bank. Birch bark must be kept
out of the sun, and the paint of canvas-covered canoes will last longer
if kept in the shade. When the paint becomes rough, sandpaper it down
smooth, and give it a couple of coats of canoe paint. When the paint is
worn off and exposes the canvas, give the bare cloth a couple of coats
of shellac before painting.
[Illustration: Paddling should be Done on the Knees When Traveling
Where High Winds and Seas are Encountered]
A repair kit should be taken along on all long trips, consisting of
a small can of white lead, a can of orange shellac, and a sheet of
oiled silk. For small cuts in the canvas, a coat or two of shellac
will suffice, but for bad gashes, cut off the loose threads of canvas
and rub on a little white lead under the raised portion near the hole
and on the surface, cut a patch of the oiled silk to cover it, and
paste it in position. When the lead is dry, give it a couple of coats
of shellac. For making quick repairs, a roll of electrician’s tape
will come in handy. The birch canoe is quickly repaired in the same
manner as suggested for the canvas-covered craft, and as the shellac is
waterproof and dries quickly, all ordinary repairs may be made by the
stream side with but little loss of time.
Oiling Tool for Clocks
Jewelers use a little tool for oiling clocks and watches that could be
used profitably by others for the same and similar work. It consists of
a steel wire, bluntly pointed on the end and set into a wood handle.
Very often the only thing that is the matter with a clock which does
not keep good time, is that it is dirty and dry. If this is the case,
any person handy with tools can fix it at practically no cost. Remove
the works, which are usually held with four screws, from the case,
immerse them in kerosene and allow them to stand for a few minutes,
then remove and drain. This will clean out the dirt.
[Illustration: The Tool will Pick Up a Drop of Oil and Deposit It Where
Wanted]
The oiling tool is dipped in light oil and a drop applied to each
bearing. Replace the works in the case and the job is finished. A
reliable jeweler will charge very little for this work, but the more
crafty ones may ask a good price for this “mysterious” process. If the
works are not dirty, apply the oil with the tool. Anyone who has tried
to oil a clock with an ordinary spout oilcan knows the futility of the
attempt. The object of the tool is to pick up and carry a drop of oil
and deposit it where wanted. A can, a feather, or a match will do, but
any one of them is apt to carry dirt, flood the dry part, or smear up
nonmoving parts.
Easily Constructed Wall Shelves
[Illustration: Shelves for Books Supported with Picture-Frame Wire to
the Wall]
All that is necessary to make and support the simple set of wall
shelves, shown in the illustration, is lumber for the shelves, four
screw eyes, four screw hooks, sufficient picture-frame wire to form the
braces and supports, and wood screws for attaching the wire. On the
top side of the upper shelf are fastened the four screw eyes, two near
the wall edge and the others near the outer edge. To support the upper
shelf four screw hooks are used; two placed in the wall and spaced to
match the set of screw eyes nearest the wall, the others being placed
above the first and connected to the outer set of screw eyes with the
wire, thereby forming strong inclined supports. The remaining shelves
can be hung to suit by the supporting wires, which are fastened with
screws to the end of each shelf.
Showing the Strength of a Giant
This trick is not so well known as it might be, although for a while it
was quite a popular drawing attraction for circus side shows and other
amusement places. It is one of the favorite Hindu tricks. The performer
passes for examination two pieces of rope 10 ft. long. In one end of
each rope a large ring is fastened. Taking a ring in each hand the
performer commands three or four men at each end of the rope to take
hold of it and at a signal they pull as hard as possible. They pull
until they are exhausted as in a tug of war, but the performer only
appears a trifle exerted and finds no difficulty in holding the men.
[Illustration: The Performer Seems to Hold the Ones Pulling on the
Ropes without Any Effort, Producing an Effect That cannot be Readily
Understood, and Making an Excellent Trick for the Lawn Party]
The secret is in the use of a piece of flexible wire, which passes up
the right sleeve of the performer, across the back and down the left
sleeve, lying just inside of the coat sleeve. At the ends of the wire
are small hooks. When about to perform this trick the performer puts on
a pair of gloves. The gloves are slit in the palms to allow the hooks
to pass through. The hooks are covered with cloth, colored to match
the gloves. An essential point to remember in performing the trick is
to keep the fingers well around the rings to prevent the ropes from
dropping in case of a slack-up on the tension.
The Tricks of Camping Out
BY STILLMAN TAYLOR
PART I--The Camping Outfit
To enjoy a vacation in the woods thoroughly, it is essential that the
outer be provided with the right kind of an outfit. The inexperienced
are likely to carry too much rather than too little to the woods; to
include many unnecessary luxuries and overlook the more practical
necessities. However, camp life does not mean that one must be
uncomfortable, but rather implies plain and simple living close to
nature. An adequate shelter from the sun and rain, a comfortable bed,
a good cooking kit, and plenty of wholesome food, are the important
things to consider. No man or woman requires more, and if unwilling to
share the plain fare of the woodsman, the pampered ones should be left
at home, for the grouchy, complaining individual makes, of all persons,
the very worst of camping companions.
[Illustration: The Old Hand at the Camping Game Prefers to Cut Poles on
the Camping Site and Set Them Up on the Outside for the Camp-Fire Tent]
[Illustration: The Wall Tent may be erected with the Regular Poles, or,
When Ordered with Tapes along the Ridge, It can be Set Up with Outside
Tripod or Shear Poles]
The Choice of a Tent
There are tents and tents, but for average outings in what may be
considered a permanent camp, the regulation wall, or army, tent is
generally used to make a comfortable shelter. It is a splendid utility
tent, with generous floor space and plenty of headroom. For the
permanent camp, the wall tent is often provided with a fly, which may
be set up as an extra covering for the roof, or extended over the front
to make a kind of porch. An extension may also be purchased to serve
the same purpose. The 7 by 9-ft. wall tent will shelter two persons
comfortably, but when the camp is seldom moved, the 9 by 12-ft. size,
with a 3¹⁄₂-ft. wall, will afford more room. The regulation 8-oz. duck
is heavy enough, or the same tent may be obtained in tan or dark green
khaki, if preferred. In any case the tent should have a sod cloth, from
6 to 12 in. wide, extending around the bottom and sewed to the tent. An
extra piece of canvas or floor cloth is desirable, but this as well as
the fly are extras, and while convenient, are by no means necessary.
The wall tent may be erected with the regular poles, or it may be
ordered with tapes along the ridge and erected by suspending between
two trees. The old hand at the camping game rarely uses the shop poles
supplied with most tents, but prefers to cut them at the camping site
and rig them up on the outside, one slender pole fastened with tapes
along the ridge and supported at either end in the crotch formed by
setting up two poles, tripod or shear-fashion.
The “Baker” style is a popular tent, giving a large sleeping capacity,
yet folding compactly. The 7 by 7-ft. size, with a 2-ft. wall, makes a
good comfortable home for two, and will shelter three, or even four, if
required. The entire front may be opened to the fire by extending it
to form an awning, or it may be thrown back over the ridge to form an
open-front lean-to shelter.
The “Dan Beard,” or camp-fire, tent is a modification of the Baker
style, having a slightly steeper pitch, with a smaller front opening.
The dimensions are practically the same as the Baker, and it may be
pitched by suspending between two trees, by outside poles, or the
regular poles may be used.
For traveling light by canoe or pack, a somewhat lighter and less bulky
form of tent than the above styles may be chosen, and the woodsman is
likely to select the forester’s or ranger types. The ranger is a half
tent with a 2-ft. wall and the entire front is open; in fact, this
is the same as the Baker tent without the flap. If desired, two half
ranger tents with tapes may be purchased and fastened together to form
an A, or wedge, tent. This makes a good tent for two on a hike, as each
man carries his own half, and is assured a good shelter in case one
becomes separated from his companion, and a tight shelter when the two
make camp together.
The forester’s tent is another good one, giving good floor space and
folding up very compactly, a 9 by 9-ft. tent weighing about 5¹⁄₂ lb.
when made of standard-weight fabric. It may be had either with or
without hood, and is quickly erected by using three small saplings, one
along the ridge, running from peak to ground, and one on each side of
the opening, to form a crotch to support the ridge pole, shear-fashion.
These tents are not provided with sod or floor cloths, although these
may be ordered as extras if wanted.
The canoe or “protean” tents are good styles for the camper who
travels light and is often on the move. The canoe tent has a circular
front, while the protean style is made with a square front, and the
wall is attached to the back and along the two sides. Both tents are
quickly set up, either with a single inside pole or with two poles set
shear-fashion on the outside. A 9 by 9-ft. canoe or protean tent with a
3-ft. wall makes a comfortable home in the open.
Whatever style of tent is chosen, it is well to pay a fair price and
obtain a good quality of material and workmanship. The cheaper tents
are made of heavier material to render them waterproof, while the
better grades are fashioned from light-weight fabric of close weave
and treated with a waterproofing process. Many of the cheaper tents
will give fair service, but the workmanship is often poor, the grommets
are apt to pull out, and the seams rip after a little hard use. All
tents should be waterproofed, and each provided with a bag in which to
pack it. An ordinary tent may be waterproofed in the following manner:
Dissolve ¹⁄₂ lb. of ordinary powdered alum in 4 gal. of hot rain water,
and in a separate bucket dissolve ¹⁄₂ lb. of acetate of lead--sugar of
lead--in 4 gal. of hot rain water. The acetate of lead is poisonous if
taken internally. When thoroughly dissolved, let the solution stand
until clear, then pour the alum solution into a tub and add the lead
solution. Let the solution stand for an hour or two, then pour off the
clear water and thoroughly soak the fabric in the waterproofing mixture
by rubbing and working the material with the hands. Hang the cloth up
without wringing it out.
[Illustration: The Forester’s Tent is Quickly Erected by Using Three
Small Saplings, One along the Ridge, and One on Each Side of the
Opening to Form a Crotch for the Ridge Pole
The Ranger’s or Hiker’s Tent Comes in Halves. Each Half may be Used
Independently as a Lean-To Shelter for One Man, or Both Joined Together
to Make Room for Two Persons
The Canoe or Protean Tents Are Good Styles for the Camper Who Travels
Light and Is Often on the Move, and They can be Quickly Set Up with a
Single Inside Pole]
How to Pitch a Tent
It is, of course, possible to pitch a tent almost anywhere, but for the
sake of comfort, it is well to select a site with natural drainage.
Many campers dig a shallow trench around the tent to prevent water from
running in during a heavy rain. This is a good idea for the permanent
camp, but is not often necessary if the soil is sandy or porous, or
where a sod cloth is used.
It is rarely necessary to carry the regular poles to the camping
ground, and they may be omitted excepting when en route to a treeless
region. The wall and other large tents may be pitched in several ways.
In some places the woodsman cuts a straight ridge pole, about 3 ft.
longer than the tent, and two crotched uprights, 1 ft. or more longer
than the height of the tent. The ridge pole is passed through the
opening in the peak of the tent, or fastened to the outside of the
ridge with tapes sewed to the cloth. The two upright stakes are then
firmly planted in the ground, one at the back and the other in front,
and the ridge pole is lifted and dropped into these crotched supports.
Set up the four corner guys first to get the tent in shape, then peg
down the side guys and slide them taut so that all of them will exert
an even pull on the tent. Another good method for setting up the side
guys is to drive four crotched stakes, each about 4 ft. long, somewhere
near 3 ft. from each corner of the tent, and drop a fairly heavy pole
in the rest so formed, then fasten the guy ropes to this pole. When a
sod cloth is provided it is turned under on the inside, the floor cloth
is spread over it and the camp duffel distributed along the walls of
the tent, to hold it down and prevent insects and rain from entering.
To overcome the disadvantage of placing the poles in the center of the
entrance, the uprights may be formed by lashing two poles together near
the top to make a crotch and spreading the bottoms to form a pair of
shears. Poles may be dispensed with entirely, providing the tent is
ordered with tapes for attaching a rope to suspend the ridge of the
tent between two trees. In a wooded country this manner of setting a
tent is generally preferred.
Where a wall tent is used in a more permanent camp, it is a good plan
to order a fly, a couple of sizes larger than the tent. This should be
set up by using separate poles and rigged some 6 or 8 in. higher than
the ridge of the tent, thus affording an air space to temper the heat
of the sun and also serving to keep things dry during long, heavy rains.
The Camping Kit
The camping kit, including the few handy articles needed in the woods,
as well as the bedding and cooking outfit, may be either elaborate
or simple, according to the personal experience and ideas of the
camper. In making up a list, it is a good plan to remember that only
comparatively few articles are really essential for a comfortable
vacation in the wilderness. A comfortable bed must be reckoned one of
the chief essentials, and one may choose the de-luxe couch--the air
mattress or sleeping pocket--use the ordinary sleeping bag, or court
slumber on one of the several other styles of camp beds. The fold-over
combination bed, the stretcher bed, or a common bag made of ticking,
6¹⁄₂ ft. long by 2 ft. wide, which is stuffed with browse or leaves,
will suffice for the average person. Folding camp cots, chairs, tables,
and other so-called camp furniture, have their places in the large,
fixed camps, but the woodsman can manage to live comfortably without
them. A good pair of warm blankets should be included for each person,
providing the sleeping bag is not taken along. The regulation army
blankets are a good choice and reasonable in price, or the blankets
used at home may be pressed into service.
A good ax is the woodsman’s everyday companion, and a good-weight tool,
weighing 3 or 4 lb., and a smaller one of 1¹⁄₂ lb. should be carried.
When going light, the belt ax will suffice.
The oil lantern is only suited for the fixed camp, since the fuel is
difficult to transport unless it is placed in screw-top cans. The
“Stonbridge” and other folding candle lanterns are the most convenient
for the woods and give sufficient light for camp life.
The aluminum cooking outfits are light in weight, nest compactly, and
will stand many years of hard usage, but like other good things, they
are somewhat expensive. A good substitute, at half the price, may be
obtained in tin and steel, having the good feature of nesting within
each other, but, of course, not being quite so light nor so attractive
in appearance as the higher-priced outfits. Both the aluminum and
steel outfits are put up in canvas carrying bags, and an outfit for
two includes a large and a small cooking pot coffee pot; frying pan
with folding or detachable handle; two plates; cups knives; forks, and
spoons. Outfits may be bought for any number of persons and almost all
sporting-goods stores carry them. The two-man outfit in heavy aluminum
will cost $9 or $10, while the same outfit duplicated in steel is
priced at $3.35.
[Illustration: The Stretcher Bed may be Stuffed with Browse or Leaves,
or Suspended from Poles and Stakes to Make a Camp Cot]
[Illustration: Food Bags with Friction-Top Tins to Fit Them, in Which
Lard, Butter, Pork, Ham, and Other Greasy Necessities are Carried]
[Illustration: A Pack Basket with a Waterproof Canvas Lid and Cover,
Having Straps to Go over the Shoulders, Is a General Favorite with
Woodsmen and Guides]
[Illustration: When Going Light the Belt Ax is Used]
[Illustration: The Compass Is by Far the Most Useful Instrument for the
Woods, but Any Reliable and Inexpensive Watch may be Carried]
[Illustration: A Good, Tempered Knife Should be Worn at the Belt]
[Illustration: The Cooking Kit may be of Aluminum or Steel, All Nesting
within the Largest Pot, and may Include a Folding Baker, or Reflector,
with Bread Board in Canvas Bag, a Wood Salt Box, and a Water-Tight Can
for Matches]
[Illustration: Folding Candle Lanterns are the Most Convenient for the
Woods and They Give Sufficient Light for Camp Life]
The Camper’s Outfit
The personal outfit should include only the most useful articles, and
each member of the party should be provided with a dunnage bag of
canvas to hold bedding and clothing, and a smaller, or “ditty,” bag
for keeping together the toilet and other personal belongings which
most everyone finds necessary for everyday comfort. A mending kit,
containing a few yards of silk, linen, and twist; a length of mending
cotton; buttons; a few needles and pins, both safety and the common
kinds, should not be overlooked. The veteran usually stows away a bit
of wire; a length of strong twine; a few nails and tacks; rivets, etc.,
for emergency use, and it is surprising to the novice how handy these
several odds and ends are found while in camp. A compact tin box will
form a convenient place to keep them and will take up little room in
the dunnage bag. A medicine case and a first-aid outfit are well worth
packing; the smallest cases containing a few of the common remedies
will fully meet the camper’s needs.
When carrying food by canoe or pack basket, the canoe duffel and
provision bags are a great convenience, enabling the outer to carry
different foodstuffs in a compact and sanitary manner. Food bags may be
had in different sizes, and friction-top tins may be purchased to fit
them; and one or more of these liquid-proof containers are desirable
for transporting lard, butter, pork, ham, and other greasy necessities.
The food bags slip into the larger duffel bags, making a very compact
bundle for stowing away in a canoe or pack harness.
Carrying List for the Camp Outfit
For permanent camps, take the wall tent with fly, although the Baker
or camp-fire styles are also good. When traveling light by canoe, the
canoe or protean tents are recommended. When going very light by pack,
use the forester’s or ranger’s tent. Sod and floor cloths and mosquito
netting are optional.
The cooking kit may be of aluminum or steel, all nesting within the
largest pot. Include a folding baker, or reflector, with bread board in
a canvas bag, a wood salt box, and a water-tight can for matches.
Furniture for the permanent camp consists of a full-sized ax,
double-blade or tomahawk style with straight handle, in a protecting
case, whetstone and file for keeping the ax in shape. A shovel and saw
will be needed when a cabin is built. A canteen may be included, but
is not required on most trips. A folding candle lantern is the best
for the average trip, but an oil, or acetylene, lantern may be used in
a fixed camp. Cots, folding chairs, tables, hangers, etc., are only
useful in fixed camps.
A pack basket with a waterproof-canvas lid and cover, having straps to
go over the shoulders, is a general favorite with woodsmen and guides.
Canvas packs or dunnage bags may be used if preferred. There are two
sizes of food bags, one holding 5 lb. and another of 10-lb. capacity,
with draw-strings at the top, and these are the best for carrying
provisions.
Pack harness, with a tumpline to go across the forehead, is needed when
the outfit must be carried on portages, etc. This may be omitted when
pack baskets are used. Packing cases of fiber may be used for shipping
the outfit to the camping ground, but ordinary trunks, or wood boxes,
will answer as well.
The Personal Outfit
An old ordinary suit that is not worn too thin is sufficient. Corduroy
is too heavy for the summer and too cold for winter, and canvas is
too stiff and noisy for the woods. Cotton khaki is excellent for
the summer, and all-wool khaki, or mackinaw, coat and trousers are
comfortable for winter. Wool is the best material for undergarments in
all seasons. Two sets of garments will be sufficient, as the washing
is done at night. Be sure to have the garments large enough to allow
for shrinkage. Light-weight cashmere is the best material for socks
during summer, and heavier weight for the winter. Three pairs of
ordinary-weight and one pair of heavy-weight will be sufficient. A
medium-weight gray-flannel overshirt, with breast pockets having button
flaps, is the woodsman’s choice. On short and light trips one shirt
will do. A light-weight, all-wool gray or brown, sweater is a good
thing to carry along, it is easily wetted through and a famous brier
catcher, yet most woodsmen carry one.
The regulation army poncho is more suited to the woods than a rubber
coat or oilskins. The larger-size poncho is more bulky to pack, but may
be used as a shelter by rigging it up with poles, lean-to fashion. A
poncho makes a good ground blanket also.
A medium wide-brimmed hat, in gray or brown, is better than a cap. A
gray, or brown, silk handkerchief should be included to wear around the
neck to protect it from the sun and cold. Only few novices will carry
one, but not so with the regular woodsman, The moccasin is the only
suitable footwear for the woods. The “puckaway,” with extra sole, is
known to most woodsmen. A pair of larrigans--ankle-high moccasins with
single sole--are suitable to wear about the camp.
Each member of the party carries his own knapsack, or ditty bag,
in which such things as brush and comb, toothbrush, razor, towel,
medicines, stationery, etc., are kept. The extra clothing is carried in
its own canvas bag.
Each member of the party carries a pair of woolen blankets. Army
blankets in tan color are serviceable and inexpensive.
A good, tempered knife should be worn at the belt, preferably one
without a hilt and having a blade 5 or 6 in. long.
A small leather pouch containing a few common remedies, such as
quinine, laxative, etc.; and a small first-aid outfit should be
included in each camper’s personal pack. Also a small leather pouch
containing an assortment of needles, darning cotton, buttons, and a
length of heavy silk twist is a handy companion.
A few sheets of paper and as many envelopes, a notebook, pencil, and a
few postal cards, are usually carried, together with an almanac page of
the months covering the intended trip.
The compass is by far the most useful instrument in the woods, but any
reliable and inexpensive watch may be carried.
Many woodsmen carry a small hatchet at the belt, and on trips when but
the few necessities are carried the belt ax takes the place of the
heavier-weight tool. The tomahawk style gives two cutting edges and is
therefore the best tool to carry. A leather or other covering case is
needed to protect the blades.
A small tin box containing an assortment of rivets; tacks; a bit of
string; brass wire; a few nails; a couple of small files; a tool holder
with tools; a sheet of sandpaper; a bit of emery cloth, and any other
small articles which the sportsman fancies will come in handy, may be
carried. It is surprising how often this “what not” is resorted to
while in the woods.
The odds and ends of personal belongings, as a jackknife; pipe and
tobacco; map of the region visited; length of fishing line and hook; a
few loose matches; match box; purse; notebook and pencil; handkerchief,
etc., are, of course, carried in the pocket of the coat.
A Camper’s Salt-and-Pepper Holder
[Illustration]
A camper will find a very clever way to carry salt and pepper by using
a piece cut from a joint of bamboo. A piece is selected with the joint
in the center, and the ends are stoppered with corks.
A Simple Self-Contained Motor
To say that the subject of this article is the simplest motor in the
world is not to overestimate it, for the apparatus is not only a motor
reduced to its essential elements, but combines within itself its own
source of electric power, all without the use of a single piece of
wire. The experiment is very interesting and instructive and will well
repay a careful construction along the lines indicated, even though not
in strict accordance with the dimensions given.
The first step is to procure a permanent magnet, about ³⁄₈ in. in
diameter and 6 in. long. If such a magnet cannot be conveniently
secured, a piece of tool steel with flat ends should be hardened by
heating it to a dull red and plunging it in water, and then strongly
magnetized. This may be readily accomplished by slipping a coil of
insulated wire over it through which the current from a storage battery
or set of primary cells is passed. If these are not at hand, almost any
electrical supply store will magnetize the steel.
[Illustration]
A square base block with neatly beveled corners is now in order, which
is trimmed up squarely and a hole bored centrally through it to receive
the lower end of the magnet. Procure a neat spool and make a hole in it
large enough to pass over the magnet. Glue the spool to the base after
locating it in the exact center.
The outer and larger cylinder is of copper, or of brass, copperplated
on the inside. It is cup-shaped, with a hole in the bottom just large
enough to permit the magnet to be pushed through with a close fit,
to make a good electrical contact. The magnet may be held in place
by having it closely fit the spool and the copper cylinder, and by
soldering the heads of a couple of small tacks, or nails, to its under
side and driving them into the spool. Coat the magnet with pitch, or
paraffin, from the top down, and around its connection with the bottom
of the cylinder. The small thimble shown at the top should be of brass
or copper, and while one can be easily formed of sheet metal and
soldered, it is not improbable that one could be made in seamless form
from small article of commerce. In the exact center of the under side
of the top of this thimble, make a good mark with a prickpunch, after
which a small steel thumb tack should be filed to a fine needle point
and placed, point up, exactly central on the upper end of the magnet,
to which it is held with a little wax. The smaller cylinder is simply
a piece of sheet zinc bent into a true cylinder of such a size that
it may be sprung over the lower end of the thimble. This done, it is
only necessary to slip the zinc over the end of the magnet until the
thimble rests on the thumb tack, and then pour some dilute muriatic
or sulphuric acid into the outer cylinder after which the thimble and
attached zinc will begin to rotate. The required strength of the acid
and the resulting speed will depend upon the nicety of suspension and
the trueness of the rotating zinc cylinder. The zinc will have to be
changed, but the copper undergoes no deterioration.
The Tricks of Camping Out
BY STILLMAN TAYLOR
PART II--Cooking in the Woods
Cooking in the woods requires more of a knack than equipment, and while
a camp stove is well enough in a permanent camp, its weight and bulk
makes this article of camp furniture unsuited for transportation by
canoe. Patent cooking grates are less bulky, but the woodsman can learn
to do without them very nicely. However, the important item which few
woodsmen care to do without is the folding baker, or reflector. The
baker is folded flat and carried in a canvas case, including baking
pan and a kneading board. The largest size, with an 18-in. square
pan, weighs about 5 lb., and the smallest, with an 8 by 12-in. pan in
aluminum, only 2 lb. In use, the reflector is placed with the open side
close to the fire, and cooking is accomplished evenly and well in any
kind of weather. Bread, fish, game, or meat are easily and perfectly
cooked, and the smaller size is amply large for a party of two or three.
[Illustration: A Cooking Range Fashioned from Two Green Logs Laid in a
V-Shape with a Few Stones Built Up at the Wide End over Which a Fire is
Made of Hard-Wood Sticks]
The camp fire is one of the charms of the open, and if it is built
right and of the best kind of wood, cooking may be done over it as
well as over a forest range. Many woodsmen prefer to build a second
and smaller fire for cooking, and although I have never found this
necessary, excepting in large camps where a considerable quantity of
food must be prepared, the camper can suit himself, for experimenting
is, after all, a large part of the fun of living in and off the woods.
A satisfactory outdoor cooking range may be fashioned by roughly
smoothing the top and bottom sides of two green logs, and placing them
about 6 in. apart at one end and about 2 ft. apart at the opposite end.
At the wide end a few stones are built up, and across these, hickory,
ash, and other sticks of hard wood are placed. The reflector is placed
close to the coals at this end, and the fire is built between the logs,
the broiling and frying being done at the narrow-end opening. Woods
that burn slowly when green should be used for backlogs and end logs;
chestnut, red oak, butternut, red maple, and persimmon being best
adapted for this purpose.
The hard woods are best for cooking and heating, since they burn
more slowly, and give out considerable heat and burn down to a body
of glowing coals. Soft woods are quick to catch fire, burn rapidly,
and make a hot fire, but burn down to dead ashes. Hickory is by far
the best firewood of the North, in that it makes a hot fire, is
long-burning, and forms a large body of coals that gives an even
and intense heat for a considerable length of time. Next to hickory
comes chestnut; the basket oaks, ironwood, dogwood, and ash are the
woodsman’s favorites. Among the woods that are easy to split are the
red oak, basket oak, white oak, ash, and white birch. Some few woods
split more easily when green than after seasoning, and among them are
hickory, dogwood, beech, sugar maple, birch, and elm. The most stubborn
woods to split are the elder, blue ash, cherry, sour gum, hemlock,
sweet gum, and sycamore. Of the softer woods, the birches make the
best fuel; black birch in particular makes a fine camp fire, and it is
one of the few woods that burns well when green. The dry bark of the
hemlock makes a quick and hot fire, and white birch takes fire quickly
even though moist. Driftwood is good to start a fire with, and dry pine
knots--the limb stubs of a dead pine tree--are famous kindlers. Green
wood will, of course, burn better in winter when the sap is dormant,
and trees found on high ground make better fuel than those growing in
moist bottom lands. Hard woods are more plentiful on high ground, while
the softer woods are found in abundance along the margins of streams.
[Illustration: A Green Pole Placed in a Forked Stick Provides a Pot
Hanger for a Noonday Meal]
For cooking the noonday meal a small fire will suffice to boil the pot
and furnish the heat sufficient to make a fry. Simply drive a forked
stick in the ground and lay a green stick in the fork with the opposite
end on the ground with a rock laid on it to keep it down, and hang
the pot on the projecting stub left for this purpose. A long stick
with projecting stubs, planted in the ground to slant over the fire at
an angle, will serve as well. Let the pot hang about 2 ft. from the
ground, collect an armful of dry twigs and plenty of larger kindling
sticks. Now shave three or four of the larger sticks and leave the
shavings on the ends, stand them up beneath the pot, tripod fashion,
and place the smaller sticks around them to build a miniature wigwam.
While the pot is boiling get a couple of bed chunks, or andirons, 4 or
5 in. in diameter, set and level these on each side of the fire, and
put the frying pan on them. When the pot has boiled there will be a
nice bed of coals for frying that will not smoke the meal.
When the woodsman makes “one-night stands,” he will invariably build
the fire and start the kettle boiling while he or a companion stakes
the tent, and as soon as the meal is prepared, a pot of water is
started boiling for dish washing.
For roasting and baking with the reflector, a rather high fire is
needed and a few sticks, a yard or more long, resting upright against
a backlog or rock, will throw the heat forward. When glowing coals are
wanted one can take them from the camp fire, or split uniform billets
of green, or dead, wood about 2 in. thick and pile them in the form of
a hollow square, or crib. The fire is built in the center of the crib
and more parallel sticks are laid on top until it is a foot or more
higher. The crib will act as a chimney, and a roaring fire will result,
which upon burning down will give a glowing mass of coals.
Camp cookery implies the preparation of the more simple and nutritious
foods, and in making up a list it is well to include only the more
staple foodstuffs, which are known to have these qualities. Personal
ideas are certain to differ greatly, but the following list may be
depended upon and will serve as a guide.
Provision List
This list of material will be sufficient for two persons on an outing
of two weeks. Carry in a stout canvas food bag 12 lb. of common wheat
flour. The self-raising kind is good, but the common flour is better.
It is well to bring a little yellow, or white, corn meal, about 6 lb.,
to be served as a johnny cake, hot, cold, or fried mush. It is fine
for rolling a fish in for frying. Rice is very nutritious, easily
digested, and easy to cook. It is good when boiled with raisins. When
cold, it can be fried in slices. About 3 lb. will be sufficient.
Oatmeal is less sustaining than rice, but it is good for porridge,
or sliced when cold and fried. Take along about 3 lb. About 2 lb. of
the self-raising buckwheat flour should be taken along, as it is the
favorite for flapjacks or griddle cakes. Beans are very nutritious,
and about 2 lb. of the common baking kind will be required, to boil
or bake with the salt pork. For soups, take 2 lb. of split peas. They
can also be served as a vegetable. Salt pork is a stand-by, and 5 lb.
of it is provided and carried in friction-top tins or a grease-proof
bag. It should be parboiled before adding to the beans or when fried
like bacon. The regulation meat of the wilderness is bacon, and 5 lb.
of it is carried in a tin or bag. Carry along 3 lb. of lard in a tin
or bag, for bread-making and frying. About 3 lb. of butter is carried
in a friction-top tin. For making rice puddings, take along 1 lb. of
raisins. About 1 lb. of shredded codfish is good for making fish balls.
Other small articles, such as ¹⁄₂ lb. of tea; 1 lb. of coffee; 3 lb.
of granulated sugar; 1 pt. of molasses; 1 pt. of vinegar; 4 cans of
condensed milk; 1 can of milk powder, a good substitute for fresh milk;
1 can egg powder, good for making omelets or can be scrambled; 1 lb.
salt; 2 oz. pepper; 1 package each of evaporated potatoes, onions, and
fruits, and 3 packages of assorted soup tablets.
This list is by no means complete, but it will suffice for the average
person on the average trip, since the occasional addition of a fish or
game will help to replenish the stores. When going very light by pack,
only the most compact and nutritious foods should be selected, while on
short, easy trips the addition of canned goods will supply a greater
variety.
Woodcraft
[Illustration: A Limb Supported at an Angle over the Fire Is Another
Means of Hanging the Pot]
While shooting and fishing and camping out are chapters in the book of
woodcraft, the word is generally defined to mean the knack of using the
compass, the map, and in making use of the natural signs of the woods
when traveling in the wilderness. If the camper keeps to the beaten
paths and does not stray far from the frequently used waterways, he
needs no compass, and sufficient knowledge of the ways of the woods may
be acquired from the previous articles, but if the outer ventures into
an unknown region the value of more intimate knowledge increases as the
distance to civilization lengthens, because it will enable him to keep
traveling in the desired direction and prevent the “insane desire to
circle,” should one discover he has lost the trail.
The Emergency “Snack” and Kit
The woodsman well knows that it is an easy matter to stray farther from
camp than he intended to when starting out, and that it is a common
enough occurrence to lose one’s bearings and become temporarily lost.
To prepare for this possible emergency and spend a comfortable night
away from the camp, he carries in his pocket a little packet of useful
articles and stows away a tiny package containing a small amount of
nutritious food. When leaving camp for a day’s hunting and fishing,
the usual lunch is, of course, included, but in addition to this, the
woodsman should carry a couple of soup tablets, a piece of summer
sausage, and some tea. Wrap this in oiled silk, and pack it in a flat
tin box. It will take up very little room in the pocket.
The emergency kit is merely a small leather pouch containing a short
fishing line; a few fishing hooks; 1 ft. of surgeon’s adhesive plaster;
needle and thread; a few safety pins, and a small coil of copper or
brass wire. These articles, with the gun and a few spare cartridges, or
rod; a belt knife; match safe; compass; map; a little money, pipe, and
tobacco, make up the personal outfit without which few woodsmen care to
venture far from camp. In addition to the above, I carry a double-edge,
light-weight ax, or tomahawk, in a leather sheath at the belt and a
tin cup strung to the back of the belt, where it is out of the way and
unnoticed until wanted.
The Compass
A small pocket compass affixed to a leather thong should be carried in
the breast pocket and fastened to a button of the shirt. An instrument
costing $1 will be accurate enough for all purposes. Many of the
woodsmen as well as the Indians do not use a compass, but even the
expert woodsman gets lost sometimes, and it may happen that the sun is
obscured by clouds, thus making it more difficult to read the natural
signs of the wilderness. The compass is of little value if a person
does not know how to use it. It will not tell in what direction to go,
but when the needle is allowed to swing freely on its pivot the blue
end always points to the magnetic north. The true north lies a degree
or more to either side. In the West, for instance, the needle will be
attracted a trifle to the east, while on the Atlantic coast it will
swing a trifle to the west of the true north. This magnetic variation
need not be taken into account by the woodsman, who may consider it
to point to the true north, for absolute accuracy is not required
for this purpose. However, I would advise the sportsman to take the
precaution of scratching on the back of the case these letters, B = N,
meaning blue equals north. If this is done, the novice will be certain
to remember and read the compass right no matter how confused he may
become on finding that he has lost his way. The watch may be used as a
compass on a clear day by pointing the hour hand to the sun, when the
point halfway between the hour hand and 12 will be due south.
[Illustration]
The compass needle is attracted to iron and steel, therefore keep it
away from the gun, hatchet, knife, and other metal articles. Hold the
compass level and press the stop, if it has one, so that the needle
may swing free. Note some landmark, as a prominent tree, high cliff,
or other conspicuous object lying in the direction of travel, and go
directly to this object. Consult the compass frequently when making a
detour, or when the landmark passes out of sight. When this mark is
reached, select another farther on and continue the travel, always
picking out new marks along the line indicated by the compass. When
making camp, consult a map, study it, and so gain a good general idea
of the surrounding country; and when leaving camp, take the bearings
from the compass. By so doing a person will know in what direction
he is traveling, and when the course is changed, keep the general
direction in mind. When climbing a hill or making detours, take a
mental note of the change in direction and the bearings will not be
lost.
Maps
The maps of the U. S. Geological Survey are drawn to a scale of 2 in.
to the mile and cost 5 cents each. On the back of each map are printed
the symbols showing the character of the land, the contours, roads, and
all important rivers and lakes in the district. For convenience, the
map should be pasted on a backing of cotton cloth and then cut up into
handy sections. Number the sections from left to right and paste a key
to the pieces on the back of one of them.
Natural Signs
When traveling through underbrush the woodsman cannot see far ahead,
and so lays a true course by noting the position of the sun. For
example, here in the northern hemisphere the sun rises just south of
east and sets somewhere south of due west. Therefore, if a person
is going north, he should keep the sun on the back and to the right
shoulder in the morning hours; full on the back at noon, and on the
back and over the left shoulder throughout the afternoon.
[Illustration]
If the day is cloudy, set the point of a knife blade on the thumb
nail, twist it around until the full shadow is cast on the nail, thus
indicating the position of the sun.
The direction of the wind is apt to change and for this reason is an
unreliable guide, while the so-called signs of the woods, such as the
tips of evergreen trees pointing north, bark being thicker on the north
side of trees, or moss growing thicker on the north side of the trees,
are by no means to be depended upon. There is absolutely nothing in
these signs. However, every woodsman is aware that the foliage of trees
grows somewhat thicker on the south side, and that the branches are
rather shorter and more knotty on the north side, but these and other
signs are scarcely infallible, and if they were, few tenderfeet would
recognize them.
When traveling by night, look for the Big Dipper or Great Bear, as the
two end stars are known as the pointers, pointing to the north star.
Marking the Trail
When traveling over old and blind trails, look for the old blaze marks,
and if doubtful about them, make new ones by breaking down the brushes
every 15 or 20 ft., the bent part pointing in the direction of travel.
If a road is encountered, it is easy to tell if it is a tote or logging
road, for tote roads are crooked and wind about the trees and rocks,
while the logging road is fairly straight and broad. Of course, tote
roads lead nowhere in particular, but all logging roads are sure to
come to a fork and lead to water. When breaking a new trail, blaze it
by taking a single clip from a tree from the side it is approached, and
on the opposite side make two blazes, indicating the way from the camp.
If this is done, a person will always know the way back if the trail is
crossed from side to side. This is the rule of the wilderness, but is
not always observed to the letter, for many woodsmen blaze their trail
by clipping the trees as they pass them. Be sure to blaze your own
trail correctly, and when you come to a place where two roads or trails
fork, set a stick to indicate the right direction.
[Illustration: Note Some Landmark, as a Prominent Tree, High Cliff,
or Other Conspicuous Object Lying in the Direction of Travel and Go
Directly to the Object, and Look for the Old Blaze Marks]
When a person becomes lost in the woods, as every woodsman is sure to
do sometimes, sit down and think it over. Many times a person is nearer
camp and companions than it is possible to realize, and if a straight
direction is taken, a lumber road or a stream will be found that will
give one his bearings. Above all, do not become frightened. If the
emergency kit and lunch have not been forgotten, a day and night in
the woods alone is not a hardship by any means. Avoid wasting energy
by rushing madly about and forgetting to blaze the trail that is being
made. Bend the points of the brushes down in the direction of travel
Do not shoot the last cartridge to attract attention, and do not shout
until hoarse. Sit down and build a fire of green wood, damp leaves or
moss, so that it will smoke. Build a second fire a short distance from
the first. This is the recognized signal of the one who is lost. The
afternoon may be windy but the wind is certain to die away at sundown,
and the smoke rising from the fires will be visible from a considerable
distance. When an Indian gets lost he merely camps on the spot and
awaits the next day for picking up the trail.
A Camp Water Bag
[Illustration]
While out on a camping trip I devised a way to supply the camp with
cool water. A strip of heavy canvas was cut about 2 ft. long and 1
ft. wide, and the edges were sewed up to make a sack 1 ft. square. In
the upper corner a large porcelain knob insulator was sewed in for a
mouth piece; the groove around it made a water-tight joint with the
cloth. Two metal rings were sewed in the cloth at the top for attaching
a strap to carry it. The side and top seams were made as tight as
possible.
In use this sack was filled with as cool water as possible and tightly
corked. It was then hung in the shade where a breeze would strike it.
The water gradually seeped through the cloth and this, in evaporating,
kept the contents cool. This sack also came in handy while fishing or
on the road.--Contributed by Earl Zander, Three Rivers, Mich.
A Mold for Making Hollow Candy Figures
[Illustration: One-Half of a Mold Cut in Metal and Used in Pairs to
Make Hollow Candy Objects]
Those semitransparent candies made up in the shapes of animals which
are brought out for the holidays and are so dear to the children have
caused many to desire to know how they are made hollow. It is a little
trick of the candymaker, which is perfectly clear to mechanics. The
candies are cast in metal molds just as babbitt bearings are cast for
motor cars. One-half of such a mold is shown in the sketch. A concave
recess in the face gives the shape of a horse, dog, or sheep, and
another half with a similar recess is laid on and located with two
dowels. In use the halves are set on a table resting on the back face
A, the hot liquid is poured in at B until the mold is full, then it is
allowed to set for a minute, during which the portion in contact with
the cold metal hardens, whereupon the mold is turned over and the still
liquid center is poured out. This leaves a glossy surface like candy, a
delight to the child, that saves money for the maker and because of its
thin walls makes eating easy.
Ornamenting an Old Tree Stump
[Illustration]
An old stump remaining after cutting down a large tree in front of a
house was made into an ornamental object in the following manner: A
cap was made of concrete, reinforced with a square piece of netting.
A concrete vase was made and set on the cap. It is only necessary to
make a square box from a few scrap boards of the desired size, built up
around the stump top. A neat mixture of cement is made and poured in
around it, and allowed to set.
Marker for a Hat
[Illustration]
A quick and convenient way of marking a hat is to take a visiting card
and cut it down in the manner shown in the illustration, then make
two small slits in the sweatband of the hat and insert the ends of
the card. If the card becomes soiled it can be easily replaced with
another. The address can be added if desired.--Contributed by James F.
Hatch, Raleigh, N. C.
A Quickly Made Door Latch
[Illustration]
A door latch that is efficient as well as simple may be made by bending
a piece of iron rod and pointing one end, as shown in the illustration,
then securing it to the door with staples; or small rods may be bent
in the shape of a staple and the ends threaded for nuts. The door is
locked by turning the handle in the position shown by the dotted lines
and securing it with a padlock.--Contributed by Claud M. Sessions,
Waynesville, Ill.
An Electric Lure for Fish
Every good fisherman knows that a light will attract fish. A simple
light can be made by taking a pint fruit jar, putting a ¹⁄₄-in. hole
in the top of the cover, inserting a piece of gas pipe in the hole and
soldering it to the cover. Insulated wires are run through the pipe,
and a small electric globe is attached to the ends in the jar. The
other ends of the wires are attached to a pocket battery. The jar is
placed under water and the light turned on, which attracts the fish.
A Table Box for Campers
BY GEO. J. EASTER
A very useful combination packing box and camp table may be made
from a coffee or other large box. If a box with a three-ply top is
available, it makes a neat appearance, but this is not essential. A
box, 14 in. deep, 20 in. wide, and 29 in. long, outside measurements,
is convenient, as it will slip under the seat of a spring wagon, and is
of such a size that a person’s knees will pass under it when used as a
table.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
The Strips in the Corners of the Boxes Form Sockets for the Legs]
Saw the box in two on the center line of the narrow way, making two
uncovered boxes of the same size and depth. The corners of each box
should be well braced on the outside, as shown at A, Fig. 1. The strips
B are fastened to the inside of the box to form sockets, C, for the
legs. The strips are ¹⁄₂ in. thick, 1¹⁄₄ in. wide, and as long as the
box is deep. Four legs, about 12 in. long and of such size as to fit in
the sockets, are used for holding the boxes together in transit. Rope
handles are fastened in the ends of each box, and also a hook and eye,
which are used to lock them together.
To pack the boxes place one half open side up, and insert the legs, as
shown in Fig. 2. Then fill it and extend the packing to the level of
the leg ends; slip the other half of the box on the legs, and fasten
the two with the hooks. If properly roped, such a box will be taken as
baggage. Canvas, and other articles which will be removed at once upon
arrival in camp, rather than provisions, should be packed in this box,
so that it can be converted into a table with the least possible work.
To make one table, or two, of the box, remove the packing legs and
insert long legs in the sockets of each section. A set of eight legs,
30 in. long, take up very little space, and can be carried diagonally
in the bottom of the box. A piece of oilcloth can be wrapped around
them and used later as a cover for the table. The legs should fit
loosely in the sockets to provide for the swelling in damp weather.
Ordinarily they can be wedged to make them rigid. The table is shown in
Fig. 3.
[Illustration: FIG. 3
Each Half of the Box Inverted is Used as a Table Top on the Legs]
Novel Homemade Picture Frames
Pictures can be mounted cheaply and artistically on stiff paper, to
make them serviceable for decorating the summer home or camp cottage,
without having them placed in a wooden frame. For this purpose a
“natural-surface” drawing paper should be used, each sheet being
sufficiently large to allow a border all around. With the picture
properly centered and marked off, the frame can be fixed. Sets of
parallel slots can be cut all around in the border, and a suitable
ribbon drawn through so that it is held in place only by the narrow
strips of paper. On each of the four corners, a rosette, or similar
decoration, can be placed. Ribbons harmonizing with the subject of the
picture should be used; for example, a marine scene could have a blue
ribbon; fields and brooks, some shade of green; while flowers would
probably be best set off by some delicate pink shade.
[Illustration: The Edges of Cardboard Extending Out from a Picture Made
to Represent a Frame]
Another means of decorating the border is to choose some appropriate
illustration from a newspaper, or magazine, and carefully trace this
outline with carbon paper all around the frame. These figures could
then be colored as desired. Profile pictures are best for such work,
as they are most easily traced. To be in harmony with the picture,
cuts such as captains, sailors, or ships would be suitable for marine
scenes; soldiers and guns, for war scenes; and trees or flowers, for
landscapes.--Contributed by J. B. Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.
Rectangular Opening to Use over Camera View Finder
[Illustration: The Rectangular Opening Allows Only That Portion of the
View to be Seen Which will Show on the Picture]
Ordinary view finders on cameras, having the cut-out in the shape of a
Maltese cross, are quite confusing to some camera users. To overcome
this difficulty, I cut a piece of celluloid to the shape shown,
and in taking a picture, the proper opening is held over the view
finder so that only the view that will appear in the picture can be
seen.--Contributed by E. Everett Buchanan, Elmira, N. Y.
Clipping File Made of Envelopes
[Illustration: The Flaps Hold All the Envelopes Together, Producing a
File of Several Compartments]
Handy pockets for holding notes, or small articles, may be made by
anyone from ordinary envelopes. The gummed flaps of the envelopes are
stuck together after spacing the envelopes to allow a small margin
at the end on which the contents of each separate pocket may be
written.--Contributed by H. Goodacre, Wolcott, Ind.
Handle for a Drinking Glass
Measure the bottom part of the glass and make a band of copper that
will neatly fit it. The ends of the copper can be riveted, but if a
neat job is desired, flatten or file the copper ends on a slant, and
braze or solder them together.
[Illustration]
Attach to the band an upright copper piece a little longer than
the glass is high. To this upright piece a bent piece of copper
to form a handle is riveted or soldered. The glass is set in the
band and the upper end of the vertical piece is bent over the glass
edge.--Contributed by William King, Monessen, Pa.
* * * * *
¶A simple and handy pincushion can be made of a large cork fastened
to any support or base with a nail or screw.
[Illustration]
Combination Camp-Kitchen Cabinet and Table
BY J. D. BOYLAN
The combination camp-kitchen cabinet and table is the result of not
being able to take the members of my family on an outing unless they
could have some home conveniences on the trip, and perhaps the sketch
and description may help solve the same problem for others. The table
will accommodate four persons comfortably, and extra compartments may
be added if desired. The cabinet, when closed, is strong and compact,
and if well made with a snug-fitting cover, is bug-proof, and the
contents will not be injured greatly, even though drenched by rain or a
mishap in a craft.
[Illustration: This Outfit Provides Accommodations for Four Persons,
and Folds Compactly]
For coffee, tea, sugar, salt, etc., I used small screw-top glass
jars. They are set in pocket shelves at both ends. When closed, one
can sit on the box or even walk on it if necessary when in the boat,
and if an armful or two of coarse marsh grass is spread over it, the
contents will keep quite cool, even when out in the hot sun. When open
for use, the metal table top F is supported on metal straps, E, which
also act as braces and supports for the table leaf, G, on each side of
the box. This affords plenty of table surface and one can easily get
at the contents of the cabinet while cooking or eating. The legs, D,
are stored inside of the box when closed for traveling. They are held
in place under metal straps when in use, and held at their upper ends
by the metal plate and blocks, B and C. The bent metal pieces, A, on
the ends of the top, spring over the blocks at B and C, and form the
handles.
A Homemade Life Buoy
A serviceable circular life buoy may be made by sewing together
rings of canvas, filling the resulting form with ground cork, and
waterproofing the covering. Cut two disks of canvas about 30 in. in
diameter, and cut out a circular portion from the center of each, about
12 in. in diameter. Sew the pieces together at their edges, leaving
a small opening at a point on the outer edge. Fill the cover with
cork used in packing grapes, and sew up the opening. Paint the buoy
thoroughly, with white lead, and attach hand grips of rope.
Locking Device for Latch Hook on Gate or Door
[Illustration]
The troublesome opening of a latch hook on a gate or door, permitting
intruders to enter or possibly injuring the door in the wind, can be
easily overcome by fitting a small catch over the hook, as indicated in
the sketch. The U-shaped locking device is cut from a piece of tin, and
fastened on the screw over which the hook is set. When locked, it is
pushed back over the head of the hook, and cannot be easily jarred out
of place.
A Vanishing-Cuff Parlor Trick
A trick which is interesting and amusing for the entertainment of the
home audience, is performed with a derby hat and a gentleman’s cuff.
The effect is produced as follows: The performer takes the derby from
his head and shows that it is empty. He removes one of his cuffs and
drops it into the hat. He tips the hat over so that the spectators
can see the inside, and the hat appears empty. He then shakes his
arm, and the white cuff reappears, whereupon he places the hat back
on his head. The explanation is simple: The white cuff, dropped into
the hat, contains a false cuff link, and the inside of the cuff is
painted black. A thread holds the cuff in shape until the latter is
dropped into the hat, when the thread is broken without the spectators
being aware of it. The cuff just fits into the hat, and its ends are
deftly snapped beneath the hatband, the hat thus appearing empty. The
duplicate cuff is kept on the forearm of the performer, and with a
shake, slides into place.--Merritt Hale, Hartford, Conn.
* * * * *
¶A little fresh developer added occasionally to old developing
solutions will bring them up in speed and intensity.
Inexpensive Table Lamp Made of Electrical-Fixture Parts
[Illustration]
A small table lamp that is light and easily portable, can be made at
a cost of less than $1 from electrical-fixture parts, either old or
purchased at a supply store for the job. The base is a bracket, with
its brass canopy inverted, as shown. The upright is a ¹⁄₈-in. brass
pipe, and it is fitted to a standard socket. The shade holder can be
made complete from a strip of tin and two wires; or adapted from a
commercial shade holder used for candlesticks. Various types of shades,
homemade if desired, can be used.
Wire Holders Keep Cabinet Doors Open
[Illustration]
Doors of cabinets often have an annoying tendency to swing shut when
articles are being removed from the shelves. To overcome this trouble
with a kitchen cabinet, I fitted brackets of No. 9 gauge wire into the
sides of the cabinet, the wire being bent to the shape shown in the
sketch. When the doors are to be held open, the wires are slid forward
from their original position, as indicated by the dotted lines, and
set in front of the doors. Before the doors are closed, the wires are
quickly snapped back into place.--A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Ont.,
Canada.
“Switchboard” Protects Milker from Cow’s Tail
[Illustration: The Legend Put On the “Switchboard” by the Boys Shows
How They Value It]
A simple and effective device for guarding a person milking a cow from
being hit in the face by the cow’s tail is made of a board, about 10
in. wide and 5 ft. long. This is hung by two wire hooks from a long
wire running lengthwise of the stable just over the front edge of the
gutter. It is moved along with the milker and effectually protects his
face while milking. The device was made by a Wisconsin farmer after
nearly losing the sight of an eye in being hit by a cow’s tail. He
tried tying the tails of the cows while milking them, but found by
actual test that some cows dropped down as much as 25 per cent in milk
production when their tails were tied. The “switchboard” gives the
cows the necessary freedom.--D. S. B., Wisconsin Live Stock Breeders’
Association.
Reflected-Light Illumination with Homemade Arrangement
“Friend wife” does not complain any longer because of poor light over
the kitchen stove. The windows in the kitchen were so disposed that
the light was partly shut off from the stove by the person standing
before it. I solved the difficulty in this way: A small window was cut
directly back of the stove, in a partition between the kitchen and an
adjoining storeroom, locating it just a few inches above the top of
the stove. A mirror was placed, after some experimenting, so that the
light from an outside window in the storeroom was reflected through the
small window in the partition and onto the top of the stove. Plenty of
light was thus afforded. Various adaptations of this arrangement may be
worked out.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, N. Y.
Bedroom Shade and Curtains Arranged for Thorough Ventilation
[Illustration: This Arrangement of Curtains and Shade Permits Through
Ventilation in the Sleeping Room]
Curtains, shades, and similar fixtures, often interfere with the proper
ventilation of sleeping rooms. By arranging these features as shown
in the sketch, the ventilation is not interfered with, and the shades
and curtains give the same service as with the usual arrangement. The
curtains are hung singly on hinged bars, which may be homemade or
those used as towel bars. Details of the supports, at A and B, are
shown in the sketch. Two pairs of fixtures are provided for the shade,
permitting it to be lowered at night, with free circulation of the air
at the top and bottom. The shade is quickly raised, and the curtains
swung into their closed position.--J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.
Coffee Grinder Repaired with Rubber Faucet Plug
A rubber piece that held the glass container on a wall coffee grinder
wore out, so that the glass would not stay in, putting the grinder out
of commission. The piece worn out was a thick rubber washer, tapered at
one end to form a hollow in the other, when in place. I cut a section
from the thick end of a standard rubber faucet plug, and shaped it to
the form of the desired washer. By removing the old rivet carefully, I
was able to use it in fixing the new washer into place, and the mill
was soon grinding merrily, as of old.--M. T. C., Chicago, Ill.
Coal Hod Made from Iron Pipe
[Illustration]
When my coal hod became worn out, I made one of a length of 8-in.
galvanized-iron pipe, and found it to be handier and stronger than
the kind I had used. I fitted the pipe with an iron handle and with a
bail of strong wire, set in metal eyes riveted to the pipe. The upper
end was cut to the curved shape shown, and the lower end square, and
holes were punched along the edge for fastening it with nails to the
double bottom of wood. Three wooden pads were set under the bottom, so
that the hod stands easily on a spot that is not quite level.--T. E.
Roberts, Toronto, Canada.
Frayed Shoe Laces Repaired with Pitch or Wax
When the tag or end fastening comes off of a shoe lace, take a little
black sealing wax, and press it carefully around the end of the lace
and shape it to a point. This will last a long time, and does away with
the annoyance of frayed lace ends.
An Enameled Armchair Made of Wooden Strips
An armchair suitable for a dressing table was made by a handy woman
from pine strips. The photograph shows the simple and pleasing lines
of the construction. Aside from the board seat, only three sizes of
wood are used, 2 by 2 in., 1 by 2 in., and ¹⁄₂ by 2 in. The pieces
are fastened with screws, round-head brass ones being used at exposed
points. The seat is wider from side to side than from front to back.
Two coats of white paint and one of white enamel give a good finish.
[Illustration: The Simple Construction of This Neat Armchair Makes It
an Attractive Job for the Amateur Craftsman]
The dimensions may be varied to suit individual needs. Sizes suggested
are: back, 32 in. high and 24 in. wide; side, 26 in. to top of arm and
19 in. wide; seat, 17 in. from floor, 18 in. from front to back, and 20
in. wide between the front supports. The stock is all planed up square
to dimensions, and sandpapered smooth. The ends should be cut squarely
in a miter box, with a fine-toothed saw, and then sandpapered smooth,
taking care not to round the ends.--A. May Holaday, Chico, Calif.
A Curling-Iron Heater
[Illustration: This Efficient Electric Heater for Curling Irons can be
Made Quickly and Is Safer to Use than an Open Flame]
Heating of curling irons is a not uncommon source of fires, and to
minimize this danger, an electrical heating device is valuable. In the
arrangement shown, a long candle-shaped incandescent lamp is mounted
in a suitable can, or metal tube, to form the body of the heater. This
should be bright, both inside and out, and preferably nickeled. Two
irons can be heated by setting them in the holes in the top. Four small
brackets, soldered, as shown, around the edge of the can, hold it to
the base. A porcelain lamp receptacle is used, mounted on a base block.
Stain, fill, and finish the wood as desired. In assembling the parts,
screw the receptacle to the base, and connect the flexible cord through
a suitable hole. Screw in the lamp, and fasten down the body.--John D.
Adams, Phoenix, Arizona.
A Stepmother for Incubator Chicks
The best imitation mother hen for incubator chicks that we have found,
is built by attaching rag strings to the bottom of an inverted cracker,
or similar, box, which accommodates 2 doz. chicks. The rag pieces are
torn 1 in. wide, from coarse cloth or gunny sacking, and their loose
ends just touch the floor. They are placed close together. An inlet
to the mother box is cut in the edge of it. The chicks huddle in
among the string rags, keeping safe and warm, whereas without such an
arrangement, they may crowd together too closely, and some of them be
smothered.--J. Cecil Alter, Salt Lake City, Utah.
A Cardboard Writing and Drawing Pad
[Illustration: Manuscripts with Drawings may be Prepared Neatly and
Quickly by the Use of This Homemade Writing Pad]
Where neatness is desired in the writing of themes, manuscripts, etc.,
especially if sketches are set into the copy, a homemade writing and
drawing pad is useful. The one shown in the sketch can be made easily,
and is a handy device for school children as well as older persons. The
paper is placed under the guide strips, as shown, and is moved along
under the sliding straightedge as desired. Drawing instruments can be
used handily along the straightedge, as indicated. The pad is built
up as detailed in the sectional views. The general dimensions can be
varied. The bottom piece is ¹⁄₈-in. cloth board. The second layer is
¹⁄₃₂ in. thick and of cardboard; the next is ¹⁄₁₆-in. cardboard, and
the upper layer is ¹⁄₈-in. cloth board, similar to the straightedge.
The latter rests on the projecting guides for the paper, and is set
between the shaded sidepieces.--R. S. Edwards, Walla Walla, Wash.
[Illustration]
Homemade Shoulder-Pack Tent
BY J. D. BOYLAN
After sleeping under various kinds of canvas coverings and not finding
any of them entirely to my liking, I made the tent shown in the
illustration, which proved quite satisfactory. It is of light weight,
easily set up or taken down, and when buttoned closely is practically
rain, wind, and bug-proof. The cost of materials necessary for making
it is comparatively slight. I use it not only as a sleeping tent
but also as a carry-all in packing camping equipment. The canvas is
supported by frames made of pliable branches cut in the woods.
[Illustration: Stakes, Rope Braces, and Supporting Poles are Not
Required for This Shoulder-Pack Tent, the Supports being Cut at the
Camp]
The layout for the canvas is shown in the detailed drawings. The
sections for the ends are made of three pieces, one for the ground and
two, divided vertically, for the end covering. The ground section of
the main portion of the tent and the covering are made in one piece,
6 ft. wide, joined at the middle, as shown. The adjoining edges A are
sewed together and the edges B, which are set at the ridge of the
tent, are sewed, after the other pieces are joined. Brass grommets are
fitted in the canvas, as indicated, and the points of the supporting
frames pass through them in driving the supports into the ground. The
shoulder straps C are placed so that they are in position when the tent
is folded, and rolled into a pack. Other equipment may be placed inside
of it. The tent supports D are pointed at the ends E, and are twisted
together at the top. The ridge pole F steadies them and holds the
canvas at the middle.
To set up the tent, lay the canvas flat on the ground and place the
supports, twisted together, through the grommets. Spring them into the
ends of the canvas, and insert the ridge pole by springing it between
the supports. The canvas is 8-oz. duck, and the fastenings used are
snap buttons; buttonholes, buckles, or harness snaps may also be used.
Kitchen for Hikers
BY PRESTON HELLER
With a view to provide all the needs of a commissary department for
36 boys for a period of four days, either on a hike or in a permanent
camp, the kitchen illustrated was constructed. As it is placed on
two wheels, which are removed when the kitchen is in use, it can be
moved from one day’s camp to another by attaching it to the rear of a
horse-drawn wagon by means of a shaft. When the wheels are removed the
entire outfit rests on legs, which are swung down from the bottom. The
sides and one end are opened by swinging one half up and resting it
on the top, while the other half swings down to a horizontal position
where it is used as a work board, making all parts easily accessible.
The outside dimensions of the kitchen, when closed and in the form
of a large box on wheels, are 5 ft. 3 in. long, 3 ft. wide, and 2¹⁄₂
ft. high. The main feature of this entire kitchen is its compactness.
At the front, and extending about 1 ft. back, is a kitchen cabinet
where the plates, sugar, salt, flour, etc., are kept in separate
compartments. Here also are found the necessary cooking utensils, such
as bread knives, butcher knives, cleaver, cooking spoons, pancake
turner, sieves, large forks, lemon squeezer, etc.; and on the shelves
of galvanized iron small boxes and packages of baking powder, cocoa,
etc., are placed. This entire compartment, as well as all others where
food is handled and prepared, is lined with No. 28 gauge galvanized
iron which makes sanitation a feature also.
Upon passing around to one side there can be seen a large three-shelved
oven, 21 in. wide, which is heated by a gasoline burner. Between the
burner and the bottom of the oven are located coils of pipe for heating
water, and these coils are connected with a tank of 7-gal. capacity,
located just above the oven. An air valve and glass gauge are attached
to the tank.
The next compartment to the rear is a large storage space, extending
all the way through the kitchen, and a 2¹⁄₂-gal. forged-copper gasoline
tank occupies a shelf in the upper portion of this space. At the
rear end along this side are located nickelplated faucets which are
connected with the hot-water tank mentioned; a 7-gal., white enameled
milk tank above; an 18-gal. cold-water tank, and an ice-water tank,
used when distilled-water ice can be secured. These faucets all drain
into a small sink, which, in turn, drains off through an ordinary sink
drain to a hole dug in the ground beneath it. Practically the entire
rear end of the kitchen is occupied by the large water tanks, ice box,
and milk tanks, with the exception of a small space at the bottom where
the silverware is kept in a drawer.
On the other side, and to the rear, two compartments above and below
the large water tank form excellent storage space for ham, bacon,
sausage, preserves, butter, etc., which need to be kept in a cool
place. Next in line is the other end of the large storage place which
extends through from the other side. Pans, pails, canned goods, larger
packages, etc., are kept in this space.
Immediately to the rear of the kitchen cabinet, on this side, are
located compartment shelves where the tin cups are kept, and adjoining
this is found a three-compartment steam cooker. By having the cups and
plates near this steam cooker, which is also heated by a gas burner,
there is less danger from rust, as they are kept thoroughly dried.
Wherever there is a gasoline burner the compartment in which it is
located is not only lined with galvanized iron, but asbestos in sheets
is placed on the inner side, so that the heat will not ignite the
interior packing or the woodwork. The tanks are accessible from the top
of the kitchen for filling and cleaning, and are packed with ground
cork.
The kitchen has shown its efficiency by giving satisfactory service in
camps of many members.
[Illustration:
Hungry Campers Quickly Provided For from the Compact, Easily
Transported Kitchen, Shown with Supply Cabinets on Left and Utensil
Cupboards on Right
The Kitchen Outfit Compacted into Its Cabinet, Mounted on Wheels and
under Transport
The Portable Kitchen Outfit Opened, Exposing the Various Compartments
Arranged So as to Be Convenient: Above, Stove and Cooking Compartments;
Below, Pantry Compartment and Space for Utensils]
Bird House Made of Kegs
[Illustration]
Two ordinary nail kegs, or other small kegs, will make a good bird
house. They should be mounted on a square post with braces of light
wood, as shown. The openings for the entrance can be cut in the ends
or sides, as desired. If cut in the sides, be sure to make the hole
between two staves.
A Drinking-Glass Holder
[Illustration]
To make a glass holder quickly, shape a wire as shown in the
sketch. The wire should be of sufficient size to hold the glass
firmly. It is fastened to the wall, or support, with a screw and a
staple.--Contributed by Edwin P. Stott, Chicago, Ill.
Needle Threader for a Sewing Machine
[Illustration]
The threader consists of two brass pieces riveted together so that they
will make an extension conical hole for the thread to enter freely.
The length of the pieces should be such that when the upper end of the
threader is placed against the needle-holder end, the conical hole will
coincide with the hole in the needle. A piece of thin sheet metal is
placed between the pieces above the conical hole to make an opening
below for the thread to pass through when the threader is removed. The
opposite edges of the brass pieces from the large part of the conical
hole are filed to a bevel so that when they are riveted together they
will form a V-shaped groove to center the needle.--Contributed by
Harriet M. Kerbaugh, Allentown, Pa.
Winding Coiled Springs
[Illustration]
When a helical spring is needed badly, one can be made up quickly by
winding the wire around in the threads of an ordinary bolt. An accurate
spring can be formed, and the pitch between each coil will be exact for
the entire length. In removing the spring from the bolt, grasp the coil
in one hand and turn the bolt with the other.
Revolving-Wheel Ruling Pen
[Illustration]
A ruling pen that will do neat work and not leave any ink on the ruler,
and which with its small ink fount draws many lines at one filling, can
be made from an old discarded revolving-wheel glass cutter. A ¹⁄₈-in.
hole is drilled in the body, or handle part, just above the wheel. The
hole is filled with a piece of felt--a piece cut from an old felt hat
will do--rolled to fit snugly, so that it will bear lightly against the
wheel. The felt is soaked with the ink to be used, and the pen is ready
for use.--Contributed by Bert Fish, Rochester, N. Y.
* * * * *
¶An excellent method of closing a crack in a wall before papering is
to paste a thin strip of linen over the crack. This not only makes
a smooth job, but prevents the paper from tearing, should the crack
widen.
[Illustration]
A Portable Folding Boat
BY STANLEY L. SWIFT
A boat that is inexpensive, easily made, and readily transported is
shown in the illustration. Since the bow section folds inside of the
stern portion, it is important that the dimensions be followed closely.
The material used is ⁷⁄₈-in. throughout.
[Illustration: The Construction of the Portable Boat Is Simple. When
Folded It may be Transported Readily and may Even be Carried in Three
Parts. It Is Inexpensive, and should Prove a Valuable Addition to the
Camping Outfit]
Make a full-size diagram of the plan to determine the exact sizes of
the pieces. Brass screws are best for fastening this type of work, but
copperplated nails may be used. Tongued-and-grooved stock is best for
the bottom. The joints should not be driven together too firmly, to
allow for expansion, and all joints in the boat should be packed with
red lead or pitch.
The adjoining ends of the sections should be made at the same time,
to insure a satisfactory fit when joined. Braces are fixed into the
corners.
Metal straps hold the sections together at the bottom of the hinged
joints. These should be fitted so that there is little possibility of
their becoming loosened accidentally. The front end of each strip is
pivoted in a hole, and the other end is slotted vertically on the lower
edge. Their bolts are set firmly into the side of the boat, being held
with nuts on both sides of the wood. A wing nut, prevented from coming
off by riveting the end of the bolt, holds the slotted end. Sockets for
the oars may be cut into hardwood pieces fastened to the gunwales. The
construction of the seats is shown in the small sketch at the left.
Nontangling Pasture Stake
[Illustration: The Wheel Revolves on the Stake, Preventing the Rope
from Tangling]
An old carriage wheel and axle were used to good advantage in the
making of the pasture stake shown in the sketch. When the animal
tethered to the wheel walks around the stake, it is practically
impossible for the rope to become tangled, as the wheel revolves on the
axle.--Contributed by W. F. Quackenbush, New York, N. Y.
Inkstand Made of a Sheet of Paper
[Illustration: A Sheet of Heavy Paper Quickly Transformed into a Holder
for Ink Bottle and Pen]
Drawings are not infrequently ruined by the spilling of ink, which
might have been averted by the use of the simple inkstand cut from a
sheet of heavy paper, as shown in the sketch. The upper illustration
shows the method of cutting the paper to fit the ink bottle and
stopper, and to produce a pen rack. The device will be found especially
useful when materials for drawing are used away from a place especially
fitted for the purpose, since the inkstand can be made in a few minutes
from material readily available.--Contributed by Henry C. Franke, Jr.,
Philadelphia, Pa.
How to Wind Wire on Electrical Apparatus
When a beginner, it was the despair of the writer to try to produce
in his homemade apparatus the mathematical regularity and perfection
of the winding on the coils of electrical instruments in the supply
stores, but when he found that this professional and workmanlike finish
could be obtained by means of a simple contrivance, and a little care
and attention to details before beginning, experimental work took on a
new interest.
At the outset let it be stated that wire should never be wound directly
on the iron core, not only because it cannot be done satisfactorily
in that manner, but for the reason that it is often desired to remove
a coil from a piece of apparatus after it has served its purpose. It
is therefore advisable to make a bobbin, which consists of a thin,
hard tube with two ends. The tube may be easily formed by wrapping a
suitable length of medium-weight paper on the core, having first coated
it with ordinary fish glue, excepting, of course, the first 2 or 3 in.
in direct contact with the core. Wind tightly until the thickness is
from ¹⁄₃₂ in. to ¹⁄₁₆ in., depending upon the diameter of the core, and
then wrap with string until the glue hardens, after which the tube may
be sandpapered and trimmed up as desired.
Where the wire is not of too small a gauge and is not to be wound to
too great a depth, no ends will be necessary if each layer of wire is
stopped one-half turn before the preceding one, as indicated in the
accompanying sketch, and is also thoroughly shellacked. With ordinary
care magnet wire may be wound in this manner to a depth of over
one-half inch.
[Illustration: Winding a Coil of Wire so That the Layers will be Even
and Smooth]
The tube having been made ready, with or without ends as may be
necessary, the small winding jig illustrated is to be made. All that
is essential is to provide a suitable means for rotating by hand a
slightly tapering wood spindle, upon which the tube is to be pushed.
The bearings can be just notches made in the upper ends of two
standards, through each of which a hole is drilled at right angles to
the length of the spindle, so that some string or wire may be laced
through in order to hold the spindle down. A crank may be formed by
winding a piece of heavy wire around the larger end of the spindle. A
loop of wire, or string, is to be attached at some convenient point,
so that the crank may be held from unwinding while adjusting matters
at the end of each layer, or while making a connection. There should
also be provided a suitable support for the spool of wire, which is
generally placed below the table to good advantage. Much depends, in
this sort of work, upon attention to these small details, after which
it will be found that the actual winding will require very little
time.--Contributed by John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
* * * * *
¶A No. 10 gauge shotgun cartridge shell telescoped with a No. 12
gauge shell forms a convenient match safe for campers, or other
persons out of doors, and is moisture-proof.
Hourglass Sewing Basket
Two oblong peach baskets, their bottoms fastened together and the whole
covered with silk, formed the hourglass sewing or darning basket shown
in the sketch. Square plum baskets and other forms trimmed in cretonne,
linen, or inexpensive goods, depending on the intended use, may also be
utilized. Ornamental details may be added to suit the individual taste.
[Illustration: Artistic Effects may be Produced by the Inventive Woman]
The basket was made as follows: The peach baskets were wired together
at their bottoms. A piece of silk was cut, wide enough to reach from
the top to the bottom of the joined baskets and to permit the folding
over of a portion at the top and bottom. One long edge of the piece was
glued to the inner edge of the bottom and drawn in around the sides to
form neat folds. The upper edge of the silk was then glued in the top,
being folded over the edge.
A cord was fixed around the middle of the basket, as shown in the
sketch. A lining was glued into the top and bottom. It was folded
and stitched along its edges to prevent raveling and to give a smooth
finish. The bottom need not be lined, but it is desirable to have it so.
The pincushion was made by padding a block with cotton and then
covering it with silk. A cardboard box may be used instead. The
cushion was nailed into place from the bottom. Ribbon may be used
to draw the silk to the sides of the basket at the middle, and a
cushion may be made entirely of cotton or cloth and attached with
ribbons.--Contributed by Thomas J. Macgowan, Mount Vernon, N. Y.
A Perpetual-Motion Puzzle
The fallacy of perpetual motion is now so generally understood that
the description of a new scheme for attaining it is only justified in
so far as it may be instructive. The sketch illustrates such a device,
apparently successful, and the discovery of the error in it is both
instructive and interesting.
[Illustration: The Interaction between Poles of the Magnets Causes the
Traveler to Move around the Triangle]
Mount a horseshoe magnet on a wooden base, and into the latter cut a
continuous groove along the three sides of a triangle opposite the
poles of the magnet, N and S. Suspend a long, narrow bar magnet on a
universal joint from a standard. A pin projects into the groove from
the lower end, which is its north pole, and can move only along the
triangular course.
Start the device with the suspended magnet in the position shown. The
lower end will tend to move in the direction of the arrows, because in
so doing it is getting farther away from the repelling north pole of
the horseshoe magnet and nearer the attracting south pole, which action
will bring it to the corner of the triangle in the foreground. It will
next move down the side as indicated by the arrow, because along that
line it is nearer the attracting south than the repelling north pole.
When it reaches the end of its trip, at the angle between the poles of
the magnet, the attraction and repulsion will be balanced, but a slight
jar will carry the traveler beyond the angle.
The third leg of the triangle will be covered similarly, the north
pole repelling the traveler. On this basis the motion should continue
indefinitely, but a test will show that it will not do so.
The corners of the triangle should be rounded slightly and it would be
better to use several hanging magnets, flexibly connected, so that when
one is at the dead center the others will carry the traveler on.
How to Transfer Drawings
Soiling of drawings transferred with carbon paper may be avoided by
substituting a piece of unfinished paper, the surface of which has been
covered with a thin coating of lead rubbed from the pencil. If any
errors are made in the tracing, or undue pressure is applied with the
hand, the resulting impressions may be removed readily with an eraser.
If a copy of a drawing is desired, and it is not necessary that the
same relative left and right position be maintained, the original
pencil drawing may be placed face downward on a sheet of paper and the
back of it rubbed with a bone paper knife, or other smooth, rounded
object. By going over the impression and making a reverse of it in
the same way a copy of the original in the same relations may be
obtained.--Contributed by J. E. Pouliot, Ottawa, Canada.
[Illustration]
Pivoted Searchlight Made of an Old Milk Strainer
BY JOHN J. SPAULDING
Both as a safety device and a practical novelty, a homemade searchlight
for a canoe, or other small craft, is worth while making. An old
milk strainer was used for the reflector of that shown, and many
equally serviceable makeshifts can be devised easily from old cans, or
formed from sheet metal. The detailed construction, as indicated, is
suggestive only, since local conditions and materials available will
govern the design of the fittings. The light has a double control, one
cord governing the vertical adjustment, and another, arranged like
that of a ship’s wheel, the horizontal pivotal range. The vertical
adjustment is desirable, but not essential. The control cords are run
in screw eyes along the coaming of the craft, so that one person can
paddle the canoe, and adjust the searchlight as well. Dry cells, stored
under the bow deck, or in a box set at some other convenient place,
supply the current for the 6-volt lamp.
[Illustration: Canoeing and Boating at Night Is Safer and More
Pleasurable if the Craft is Equipped with a Searchlight. This One was
Made of Pick-Up Materials at Small Cost]
[Illustration: The Support for the Reflector is Pivoted in the Deck,
Reinforced as Indicated]
The main dimensions of the fittings, as detailed, are: strainer, 10
in. in diameter and 10 in. long; vertical support, 12¹⁄₂ in. over all,
and 6 in. wide at the upper portion; the wood used is ¹⁄₂ and ³⁄₄
in. thick, except that for the pivot post, which is 1 in. thick. The
reflector is fitted with a wooden block through which the porcelain
socket is set, as shown. A knife switch, placed near the stern of the
craft, controls the connection with the battery circuit.
The inside of the reflector should be polished with emery cloth, and if
the surface is rough, it may be painted with white enamel. The outer
surfaces of the metal part are painted black. The wooden parts may
be painted, or given several coats of spar varnish, to withstand the
weather.
Gravity-Feed Coal Hopper on Truck
[Illustration: The Large Capacity of the Hopper and the Ready
Portability of This Arrangement Are Practical Features]
In the large farm kitchen, in the workshop, and even for firing a
small furnace, a coal hopper that will hold considerable coal, and
that can be rolled along the floor easily, is a convenience. Such an
arrangement, made from a section of galvanized-iron pipe, 10 in. in
diameter and 30 in. long is shown in the sketch. The pipe was cut at
one end, as shown, so that when the coal was poured into the hopper,
it would feed out. A truck, mounted on casters, was made, 12 in. wide,
5 in. high, and 25 in. long. The hopper was mounted on one end of it,
and bolted securely at the sides and end. The coal is shoveled into the
hopper at the bin, and the load pushed to the furnace, where it can be
easily used as needed. The construction can be made larger for use with
a coal scoop, in firing a boiler or large furnace.--L. R. Markwood,
Factoryville, Pa.
Taking Photographs in Falling Snow
Falling snowflakes in a camera photograph--the large feathery, slow
falling kind--often make an exquisitely beautiful picture out of a
commonplace scene. And while the great majority of the attempts to get
them prove failures, the photographer--usually an amateur-needs only to
provide an avenue in front of his lens a short distance, that is free
from falling flakes by the use of a shelter such as a tree or porch.
The slow snapshot necessary in cloudy weather will not stop the motion
of the flakes nearest the camera and these passing through greater
angles of space in equal length of time than those farther away, will
blur on the negative. We made some excellent outdoor views in deep
snow, while heavy snow was falling, with flakes splendidly decorating
the darker regions of figures and foliage, by holding a felt hat and
two umbrellas in a line in front of the camera, and above the range of
the lens.--J. Cecil Alter, Cheyenne, Wyo.
A Double-Contact Vibrator
[Illustration: When the Vibrator Touches One Contact, the Coil on
the Opposite Side Attracts the Vibrator, This Process being Repeated
Alternately]
A double-contact vibrator, which eliminates sticking contacts, spring
troubles, and other sources of annoyance, in addition to producing
a fine high tone, is shown in the sketch. It is an instrument easy
to construct, by reason of its simplicity. Special care in making
the vibrator D will insure good vibration. The springs, holding the
contacts, are of phosphor bronze The contacts may be made of silver
platinum, or other metals, which will not burn and break contact.
The coil B are of the common bell-ringing type. The springs on the
vibrator should not be too long, nor too weak; experimenting will
determine the length at which they will work best. The adjustment is
made at the thumbscrews A. The coils are supported on metal brackets,
bolted to a wooden base. The method of hooking up the vibrator in the
key circuit is shown in the diagram.--J. L. Taylor, Barker, N. Y.
Battery Buzzer Converted into a Telegraph Sounder
[Illustration: The Amateur can Practice the Morse Code Handily on This
Sounder, Made from a Buzzer]
An ordinary battery buzzer may readily be converted into a telegraph
sounder for use in practicing the Morse code. All that is necessary is
to connect the vibrator contact C of the buzzer to the binding post
that is not insulated from the frame. The other connections of the
key and battery are the same as in any ordinary telegraph or buzzer
circuit. In the diagram, C represents the vibrator contact; D, the
wire connecting the contact and the uninsulated binding post, and F,
the uninsulated binding post; E is the telegraph key, and B, the dry
cells.--Clarence F. Kramer, Lebanon, Ind.
Lawn Seats Built on Tree Stumps
[Illustration: These Practical Lawn Seats Show the Possibilities of
Stumps as Supports for This Purpose. The Conservation-Chair Design Is
Especially Interesting]
A practical use to which stumps, left from the felling of trees, are
put in a city park is as supports for lawn benches. This obviates
the need of grubbing them out, while the work of preparing them to
receive the seats is less than would be required to remove the stumps.
Of course, the location of the stump will determine whether it is
worth while as a support for a seat, or had better be grubbed out.
Many designs are possible, and the position and size of the stumps
available will suggest suitable construction. The woodwork for the
seats is simple, and the benches can be made removable for the winter
if desired.--C. L. Meller, Fargo, N. D.
A Hinged Box Cover Made without Hinges
[Illustration]
When a wooden box with a hinged cover is desired, especially a small
one, hinges are not always at hand, and are sometimes difficult
to obtain. Under these circumstances a good substitute is to make
the box as shown in the sketch, using the extension of one end and
nails, or screws, driven through the back corners of the lid, as a
hinge arrangement. This makes the use of hinges unnecessary, and is
serviceable even for permanent use. Where hinges projecting from the
surface of the box are objectionable, this method of construction is
especially desirable. It is best to make the hinged ends with the grain
vertical, and to round off the hinged corners of the lid slightly.--R.
J. Rohn, Chicago, Ill.
Automatic Flash Light Snaps Chicken-Coop Marauder
[Illustration: This Photographic Evidence Was Proof Positive as to the
Identity of the Thief in the Night]
After the wire fence around the chicken house had been torn up, and the
place entered 13 nights in two weeks, I decided on more preparedness.
Various ways and means failed, so I used a comparatively slight
knowledge of photography in the process.
I mounted my flash lamp on a piece of board, 1 by 4 by 8 in. long, and
fastened this to a base, as shown. I attached a weight to the lamp,
which was supported by a hinged drop, halfway down the upright board,
which in turn was supported by a nail, to which was attached a string.
The flash was set off by a slight pull of the string, which dropped
the weight. This contrivance I concealed in the chicken yard, and the
camera in the chicken house. That night I opened the lens of the camera
in the dark, and attached the string to a loose board in the fence. The
next morning, before daybreak, I closed the lens again. The flash had
been set off during the night. Also there were drops of blood on the
ground. I could hardly wait until the plate was developed. The result,
as reproduced, was hardly what I expected.--H. U. Scholz, Medford, Ore.
A Fishing-Tackle Outfit in a Shotgun Shell
At the camp or on the trail, an emergency fishing-tackle outfit is
almost as handy as matches, compass, and knife, and it may even be the
means of saving one’s life. A convenient way to carry such an outfit
is in two old shotgun shells, telescoped. The hooks, on a cork, and
the sinkers are fitted snugly into the shell. Several yards of line
are then wound on the outside. This outfit can be stowed into a pocket
handily, always ready for use.--E. Everett Buchanan, Jr., Elmira, N. Y.
A Split-Bamboo Lettering Pen
[Illustration: This Pen, Cut from a Piece of Bamboo and Fitted with a
Spring Fountain Device, Is Especially Useful for Marking Packages]
Marking of packages and similar lettering can be done neatly with a pen
made in a few minutes from split bamboo fitted with a short section
of watch spring. Select a piece of bamboo, ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₁₆ in. and about
7 in. long, and finish the end, as at A. Trim the end to an angle, as
at B, and then point it, as at C. Split the point carefully, as at D,
and smooth away the tufts at the edges. Cut a piece of watch spring the
width of the pen point and bind it into place, arched as shown. To use
the pen, insert ink into the arch of the spring, and it will work much
like a fountain pen.--Raymond H. Lufkin, Dorchester, Mass.
[Illustration]
How to Make a Houseboat
BY H. SIBLEY
The houseboat shown is of the scow design, 6 ft. wide by 20 ft. long,
with the cabin extending beyond the scow 1 ft. on each side. The scow
tapers up at the forward end and is protected with a heavy sheet-iron
plate so that the craft may be snubbed up on sandbars without danger of
springing a leak, even though a submerged log be struck while running
at full speed.
The power plant consists of a standard 4-hp. reversing gasoline engine
which drives the paddles at their most efficient speed, 45 revolutions
per minute through a 13-to-1 reduction. Cast-iron hubs, into which are
inserted cold-rolled steel spokes, and wood paddles bolted to their
ends constitute the propeller wheels. The cruising speed is about 4
miles an hour.
[Illustration: The Hull of the Houseboat is Built on the Scow Type so
That It can be Run in Shallow Water without Danger]
Two wide bunks, beneath which is locker space, provide sleeping
accommodations for a crew of four. In the kitchen the motor and gearing
are almost completely concealed under the work table. The cooking
is done on a two-burner blue-flame kerosene stove, and the sink is
provided with running water suitable for washing dishes, etc. This
water is drawn from a 30-gal. tank on the roof, which is filled by a
centrifugal pump driven from the engine shaft. A modern toilet room is
installed, and an ice chest on the after deck will hold supplies and
ice for a week’s cruise.
[Illustration: Detail of the Anchor Windlass and Engine Gearing; Also
the Deck Plan, Showing the Location of the Parts and the Arrangement of
the Cabins]
An acetylene-gas lighting system is installed and is used to light
both cabins and a searchlight. A heavy anchor of special design is
manipulated by a windlass on the forward deck. A similar device
controls the rudder. Life rafts, complete with paddles, are placed on
the roof, and in hot weather these are moved to one end and an awning
erected to make a cool sleeping place.
Wood Box with a Refuse-Catching Drawer
[Illustration: The Wood Receptacle Has a Drawer Bottom for Catching the
Dirt, Which can be Easily Cleaned]
The ordinary wood box may be greatly improved by adding a drawer at the
top and one at the bottom, as shown in the sketch. The upper drawer is
used for storing the flatirons and stove-polishing materials, and the
lower drawer is the bottom of the wood box. The dirt and pieces falling
from the wood remain in the drawer, which can be removed and cleaned
easily.--Contributed by William Jutila, Astoria, Ore.
Disappearing-Coin Trick
To make a quarter disappear from a glass of water after hearing it drop
is a very puzzling trick. The articles necessary to perform this trick
are a glass of water, a handkerchief, a quarter and a piece of clear
glass the exact size of a quarter. The glass can be cut and ground
round on an emery wheel, and the edge polished.
To perform the trick advance with the piece of glass hidden between the
second and third fingers of the left hand and holding the quarter in
plain sight between the thumb and first finger of the same hand and the
handkerchief in the right hand. Throw the handkerchief over the left
hand and gather up the glass piece in the fold of the cloth, allowing
the coin to drop into the palm of the left hand while covered. Remove
the left hand and hold out the piece of glass with the handkerchief
drawn tightly around it. Anyone can touch the cloth-covered glass,
but it cannot be distinguished from the quarter. While this is being
shown slip the quarter into a pocket. Spread the handkerchief over
the glass of water and allow the glass disk to drop. A distinct click
will be heard when it strikes the bottom. Raise the handkerchief
and nothing will be seen, as the glass will not be visible in the
water.--Contributed by Amon H. Carr, Gainesville, Tex.
Watering Window-Box Flowers
[Illustration: The Soil is Kept Moist by the Water Feeding through the
Sponges from the Under Side]
The window box for flowers can be conveniently watered in the following
manner: Construct a metal box to receive the box holding the soil and
bore enough holes in its bottom to admit water to the soil. The inside
box should be supported about 2 in. above the bottom of the metal box.
Sponges are placed in the bottom to coincide with the holes in the soil
box. A filling tube is made at the end. The water is poured into the
metal box and the sponges admit only enough water for the plants at all
times.
[Illustration]
How to Make Combined Kites
BY C. M. MILLER
PART I--A Dragon Kite
Dragon kites are made as hideous as the maker can possibly conceive,
and while the one to be considered is no beauty, it is more droll
than fierce-looking. In general appearance the dragon and centipede
kites are like huge caterpillars floating about in the air. The kite
sometimes twists and the balancer sticks appear to be large hairy
spines. Usually the tail end swings higher than the head. It is like
so many single kites, pulls hard, and requires a strong cord for the
line. The individual circular sections may number 20, and if placed
30 in. apart, would make a kite about 50 ft. in length, or the number
of sections may be more or less to make it longer or shorter. The
kite will fold up into a very small space, for carrying about or for
storage, but care should be taken in folding not to entangle the
harness.
[Illustration: In General Appearance the Dragon Kite Is Like a Huge
Caterpillar Floating About in the Air]
The Head
The head requires much more work than any of the other sections.
There are two principal rings to this section, as shown in Fig. 1.
The inner ring is the more important, the outer one being added for
the protection of the points when alighting. The construction of the
framework is shown in Fig. 2. It is made entirely of bamboo. The
bamboo is split into strips, about ³⁄₁₆ in. wide, for the ring A. As
the bamboo strips will be much too thick, they must be pared down to
less than ¹⁄₁₆ in. The diameter of the ring A is 12 in., and a strip
of bamboo to make this ring should be about 38 in. long, so that there
will be some end for making a lap joint. The ends of the strip are held
securely together by winding them with linen thread. The Chinese boys
use strips of rice paper, about ¹⁄₂ in. wide and torn lengthwise of the
paper. The rice-paper strips are made wet with paste before winding
them on the joint, and when they dry out the shrinkage will bind the
ends securely.
Two crosspieces, of the same weight as the ring stick, are placed 3¹⁄₂
in. apart, at equal distances from the center and parallel, as shown
at B and C. The ends of these pieces are turned at a sharp angle and
lashed to the inside surface of the ring A. To make these bends, heat
the bamboo over a candle flame until it will give under pressure, then
bend and it will stay in shape after it becomes cold. This method of
bending should be remembered, as it is useful in making all kinds of
kites. Two small rings, each 3¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, are put in between
the two parallel pieces, as shown at D and E. These are for the eyes of
the dragon. The rings are lashed to the two crosspieces B and C. As the
eyes revolve in the rings they should be made perfectly true. This can
be done by shaping the bamboo about a perfectly round cylinder, 3¹⁄₂
in. in diameter. To stiffen the whole framework, two pieces of bamboo,
¹⁄₁₆ in. thick, ¹⁄₈ in. wide, and 20 in. long, are lashed to the back
as shown by F and G. There is a space of 3 in. between the inner ring
A and the outer ring H, giving the latter a diameter of 18 in. It is
made of a bamboo strip, ¹⁄₈ in. wide, and should be less than ¹⁄₁₆ in.
thick. It may be necessary to make this large ring from two pieces
of bamboo, to get the length, and in such case be careful to make a
perfect ring with the ends well lashed together. Two short pieces are
lashed to the two rings, as shown at J and K. The supports for the
horns consist of two pieces, ¹⁄₈ in. wide and less than ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick,
and they are lashed to the upper crosspiece and to both rings, so that
the parts L and M are exactly halfway between the ends of the pieces F
and G and radiate out from the center of the ring A, the other parts, N
and O, pointing to the center of the eye rings, respectively. The ears
are unimportant and may be put on if desired. The rings on the horns
and the stick ends may be from ¹⁄₂ to 2 in. in diameter, cut from stiff
paper, but if larger, made of bamboo.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
The Kite-Head Section, Having Horns, Ears, and Revolving Eyes, Is Very
Hideous]
[Illustration: FIG. 2
The Framework for the Head Section is Made Entirely of Bamboo Strips
Lashed at the Joints]
Chinese rice paper is the best material for covering, and it should be
stretched tightly so that there will be no buckling or bagging places.
The only part covered is that inside of the inner ring A, the horns,
and the ears, leaving the eye rings open. The shades are put on with a
brush and water colors, leaving the face white, or it can be tinted in
brilliant colors. Leave the horns white and color the tongue red.
The Eyes
The frame for each eye is made of bamboo, pared down to ¹⁄₃₂ in. in
thickness and formed into a perfect ring, 3¹⁄₄ in. in diameter. Each
ring revolves on an axle made of wire passed through the bamboo exactly
on the diameter, as shown at P, Fig. 3. The wire should be long enough
to pass through the socket ring D or E, Fig. 2, also, and after the
eye ring is in place in the socket ring and the axle adjusted, the
latter is fastened to the eye ring with a strip of paper wrapped
tightly around the wire and pasted to the bamboo of the ring. A glass
bead, placed on the wire axle between the socket rings D or E and the
eye ring Q on each side, keeps them apart and the revolving one from
striking the other.
Each side of the eye ring is covered halfway with rice paper, as shown
in Fig. 4. The part R is on the upper front half, and that shown by S
is on the back lower half. Placing the two halves in this manner causes
an unequal pressure of the wind on the whole eyepiece, and thus causes
it to revolve on the axle. The front upper half of the eyepiece is made
black, and the smaller dark portion extending below the darkened half
is a round piece of paper placed just between the two halves so that
half of it will show on both front and back of the eyepiece. When the
eyepiece is given a half turn in its socket the back side will come to
the front and will appear just the same as the other side. Some kite
builders add pieces of mirror glass to the eyes, to reflect the light
and cause flashes as the eyes revolve in their sockets.
A Section Kite
The ring for the section kite is made the same size as the inner ring
of the head kite, or in this case 12 in. in diameter. The bamboo
for making this ring should be ¹⁄₈ in. wide and ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick. The
balancer stick, 36 in. long, is located about the same place as the
cross-stick F, as shown in Fig. 2, and must be made small, light and
well balanced. Small tufts of tissue paper, or feathers, are attached
to the tip ends of the balancer sticks, as shown in Fig. 5. The cover
for the section kite is put on tightly, the same as for the head, the
colors indicated in the sketch being only suggestions, as the builder
can color them as desired. The balancer on the last section should have
streamers, as shown in Fig. 6, for a finish. The streamers are made of
light cloth.
[Illustration: FIG. 3
FIG. 4
Two Bamboo Rings with Paper Coverings, to Make Them Turn in the Wind,
Constitute the Eyes]
[Illustration:
FIG. 6
FIG. 7
FIG. 8
FIG. 5
The Section Kites Have Balancers and the Disks are Given Bright Colors
So That They will Produce the Effect of a Great Dragon When in the Air,
the Head Piece Having a Ball Balancer Hanging from the Under Edge]
The Harness
As previously stated, 20, more or less, sections can be used, and the
number means so many separate kites which are joined together with
three long cords, spacing the sections 30 in. apart. The cords should
be as long as the kite from the head to the tail, allowing sufficient
extra length for the knots. As such a kite will make a hard pull, the
cord used should be a six-ply, hard-twisted seine twine. Start by tying
the three long cords to the head kite at the points T, U, and V, Fig.
2. Tie the next section at corresponding places just 30 in. from the
head kite. The construction will be much easier if the head kite is
fastened to a wall so that each cord may be drawn out to its proper
length. Continue the tying until all sections are attached just 30
in. apart. Other spacing can be used, but the distance selected must
be uniform throughout the length of the kite. The individual kites,
or sections, may vary in size, or they can all be 9 in. in diameter,
instead of 12 in., and the balancer sticks 30 in. long instead of 36
in., but a kite of uniform sections is much better and is easier to
make. The positions of the sections as they will appear in the kite are
shown in Fig. 7.
The Bridle
The Chinese bridle is usually made of three strings, which are attached
to the same points on the head kite as the harness cords, or at T,
U, and V. The lower string is longer than the two upper ones so that
the proper inclination will be presented to the breeze. As the head
is inclined, all the section kites will also be inclined. Some makers
prefer a balancer on the head kite, and in one instance such a balancer
was made in the shape of a ball. A ball made of bamboo strips is shown
in Fig. 8, and is attached as shown in Fig. 7.
Flying the Kite
It will be necessary to have a helper, and perhaps two, in starting the
kite up, as the harness might become entangled. Quite a little run will
be necessary, but when up the kite will make a steady flier and will
pull very hard. If the first attempt is unsuccessful, try readjustment
of the bridle or a little different position in the breeze, and see
that the balancers are not tangled. Quite a number of changes may be
worked out on these plans, but it is necessary to bear in mind that
the distances between sections must be equal and that the general
construction must be maintained.
A Movable Sunshade and Seat for Garden Workers
[Illustration: The Sunshade and Seat are Mounted on Wheels So That the
Device can be Easily Moved About]
Weeding gardens under a hot sun and in a necessarily uncomfortable
position is by no means a pleasant occupation, but much of the hardship
can be avoided if a combination movable sunshade and seat is made, as
shown in the illustration. The framework consists of two end pieces,
both made in the same way. Two ¹⁄₂-in. tees are required for each.
These are connected with a 5-ft. pipe, for the upright, and the
crosspiece that supports one end of the canvas consists of two pieces
of pipe, each about 1¹⁄₂ ft. long, screwed into the tee. The axle for
the wheels is also formed of two pieces of pipe, but these are only
about 1 ft. long.
Four suitable cart wheels should be provided, or solid circular disks
cut out of a board or plank, and drilled for a ³⁄₈-in. axle. Ordinary
³⁄₈-in. washers are placed on each side of the wheels, one serving as
a shoulder on the pipe end, and the other for the nut. The seat can be
made of a 1 by 8-in. board, about 6 ft. 9 in. long, notched at each end
to fit the pipe tees and prevented from shifting by means of U-bolts
around the axle on either side of the upright. After covering the top
with canvas, fastened at each end around the upper crosspiece, the
shaded movable seat is ready for service.--Contributed by W. E. Crane,
Cleveland, Ohio.
To Keep Grass and Weeds Out of Tennis Courts
Tennis courts are very apt to become covered with grass and weeds
unless considerable labor is expended on them. The best way to keep
a court free from this growth is to put on sheets of tar paper close
together when it is not in use. The paper should be cut in strips
the proper length, so that they can be rolled up and set aside until
the game is over, when they can be laid down again. After the court
has been covered a few times, the grass will die out and disappear
altogether. The use of salt, acids, and a number of other things,
together with hoeing, were tried out, but the paper covering was the
most successful of them all.--Contributed by W. D. Mills, Bakersfield,
Cal.
Buttonhole-Bouquet Holder to Keep Cut Flowers Fresh
[Illustration]
Being employed near a glass-blowing department I procured a small glass
tube and made a buttonhole-bouquet holder. One end of the tube I closed
and flared the other, then flattened the whole tube a bit. This tube,
inserted in the buttonhole with a few drops of water in it, will keep
cut flowers fresh for a whole day. If the upper end is flared just
right it will fit the buttonhole and will not be seen, as the tube is
hidden beneath the coat lapel.--Contributed by Frank Reid.
Cooler for a Developing Tray
[Illustration: Water-Jacketed Tray for Use in Cooling a Developing Tray
with a Flow of Water]
Regardless of the fact that tank development for photography is the
better method under most conditions, there are many who take special
delight in tray development, because they enjoy seeing the picture as
it develops on the plate or film.
There are many of this class of photographers both among amateurs and
professionals, and they universally experience much trouble in keeping
the solutions cool enough for good work in hot weather or a warm dark
room. Many schemes have been used, but there is none simpler than that
shown in the illustration. It is certainly better than letting the
developing tray float in the bathtub, a common practice among amateurs
who are compelled to use the bathroom as a dark room.
Any tinsmith can make a water-jacketed tray of zinc at a nominal price.
If one expects to use it for developing films by hand, it should be
made relatively deep, or at least shaped so that whatever method is
used in manipulating the film will be suited to the size and shape of
the tray. I had one made of zinc to accommodate an 8 by 10-in. plate
and providing about ¹⁄₄-in. space all around the sides and bottom of
the inner tray for the circulation of the water.
Two brass gas tips were soldered into the ends of the tray and a rubber
tube was attached to one of them, as shown. By connecting this tray
to the bathroom hydrant the developing solution can be kept as cool as
desired without slopping water where it is not wanted.--Contributed by
T. B. Lambert, Chicago, Ill.
Doorbell Push Button on Screen Door
[Illustration: Method of Connecting a Push Button for a Doorbell on a
Screen Door]
Push buttons are frequently put in hallways, or other places, not
accessible when the screen doors are hooked shut. By connecting an
extra button on the screen door with the regular doorbell line, the
service can be made to go on uninterrupted whether the screen be locked
or open.
To do this, one wire, carefully insulated, from the outside button is
laid under the upper molding strip of the screen, as shown, coming
out through the hinge and passing down to the battery line, being
concealed in any suitable manner, by molding or within the door frame.
The button circuit is completed by connecting it to the screen with a
short wire, the screen then acting as a conductor. If preferred, the
line may be run down under the screen-door molding, and out through
the bottom hinge same as with the other wire at the top. If the screen
is used as conductor, a piece of wire should be connected to it near
the bottom, and led through the hinge as before. In either case, after
leaving the hinge, the wire must be led and connected to the battery
line, to complete the circuit. It is then possible to operate the
bell either from outside of the screen door or at the regular place
within.--Contributed by E. M. Davis, Philadelphia, Pa.
Working Wood by the Application of Heat
It is often desirable to fit a piece of wood into a piece of metal by
means of cutting a thread in the metal and screwing the wood therein.
This can be accomplished by heating the metal to a little over the
boiling point of water and screwing the wood piece into the metal while
hot; or, if this is impractical on account of size, to heat the metal,
make a screw plate by cutting a thread in a small piece of metal, the
size and thread corresponding to the hole into which the wood piece
is to be inserted, and heating it to the required temperature, then
running the wood with some pressure through the thread. The wood then
can be screwed into the larger piece, where it will hold firmly.
The process of heating wood without the aid of steam can be used to
advantage in a number of ways; for instance, a hammer handle that is
crooked can be straightened by careful heating without burning; also
billiard cues, or almost anything of hard wood. It is surprising how
easily it is done and how permanent the repair will be. The Indians at
one time made their arrows from small hardwood twigs which were almost
always crooked to start with, but after being dried they were warmed
over a fire and straightened.
Another use for the application of heat is as follows: When it is
desired to place a screw in a fragile piece of wood that is likely to
split, if the screw is heated to a blue color and turned into the wood
while hot, there will be scarcely any danger of splitting. In this
case do not try to use oil or a lubricant of any kind, as the screw is
sure to set before it is in place.--Contributed by James H. Beebee,
Rochester, N. Y.
A Parlor Table
[Illustration: Detail of the Parlor Table, Together with Dimensions of
the Pieces]
The material required for the parlor table illustrated is as follows:
1 table top, 1 by 26 by 41 in.
1 bottom shelf, 1 by 15 by 35 in.
2 side rails, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 33 in.
2 end rails, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 21 in.
2 top cross braces, 1 by 4 by 19¹⁄₂ in.
4 feet, 1³⁄₄ by 4 by 4 in.
2 posts, 6 by 6 by 26 in.
2 side corner strips, 1 by 1 by 31¹⁄₂ in.
2 end corner strips, 1 by 1 by 17¹⁄₂ in.
The bottom shelf can be made of two pieces of 1-in. material, 8 in.
wide, carefully glued together, and reinforced on the under side with
two crosspieces, glued and screwed to it. The foot pieces are secured
to the bottom shelf so as to project 1 in. on the ends and sides. In
case a center support is deemed advisable, another foot piece can be
added, but unless the floor is very level, rocking may result. The
uprights, or posts, are made from solid 6 by 6-in. lumber, 26 in. long,
carefully squared at the ends, and tapered to 4 in. square at the upper
end. If desired, the posts can be made of boards, cut and fastened
together to form a hollow tapered post. In either case, they should be
set in about 4 in. from each side of the bottom shelf and fastened to
it by means of screws.
[Illustration: Design of a Table That will Appear Well in the Different
Oak Finishes as Well as in Mahogany]
The rail pieces for the table top should be cut and fitted with mitered
joints at the corner to form a rectangular frame, 21 by 33 in. This
is glued to the top and may be toenailed to it; but to provide a more
secure bracing, a 1-in. square strip of material is fastened all around
the inside edge of the rails, flush with their upper edge. The top is
screwed to this. In order to prevent tipping when the top is resting on
the 4 by 4-in. ends of the posts, two cross braces are provided. These
should be screwed to the outer-end sides of the posts, and beveled
off on their upper edges to fit the table top. They should be of such
length as to have a tight fit between the side rails, and are fastened
to these by means of finishing nails driven from the outside. Gluing
and toenailing can also be used to secure the top more firmly to the
braces; care should be taken that no nails cut through the table top.
After thoroughly sandpapering and smoothing off the table, it can be
finished to suit.--Contributed by H. J. Blacklidge, San Rafael, Cal.
Homemade Fuses for Battery Circuits
To carry out the general arrangement of the regular electrical
equipment of a large power plant, the battery circuit should have some
sort of a fuse block. An excellent way to make such a block is as
follows: Procure a piece of glass tubing, about 1 in. long, and make
a mounting for it with four pieces of sheet brass, as shown in the
sketch. The brass pieces are shaped and fastened to a wood base so that
their upper ends form a clamp to hold the glass tube.
[Illustration: The Fuse is Well Insulated and Protected against Fire
the Same as the Large Fuse]
A very thin piece of tinfoil, about 1¹⁄₂ in. long, is cut ¹⁄₈ in., or
less, in width, the size depending on the amount of current used. This
is placed in the glass tube and the ends are bent over the edge. A
piece of tinfoil is then wrapped around each end, over the ends of the
inclosed piece, and pasted to the tube.
The fuse thus made is pushed into the spring clamps of the block which
are connected in the circuit.--Contributed by Charles W. Meinberg,
Somerville, Mass.
Reproducing Flowers and Leaves in Colors
A very cheap, easy, and quick way to make reproductions of flowers,
leaves, insects, butterflies, etc., is the following: Purchase 1 oz. of
bichromate of potash and dissolve it in water. Spread this fluid over
the surface of the paper upon which the picture is to be made, using a
soft brush, and place it in a dark room to dry. When dry it will be a
light lemon color.
The leaf, or part to be reproduced, is placed upon the yellow side of
the paper and the whole exposed to the sunlight. The uncovered portions
will gradually turn brown, while the part covered by the object will
remain a lemon color. When the desired shade of brown is attained,
remove the paper from the sunlight, and the image of the object will be
on the paper.
Go over the outline with crayons or colors, and fill in the print
according to the natural colors. Very beautiful pictures may be made
in this way, and a butterfly made up in natural colors on a dark-brown
ground is very pretty. These prints, uncolored, will keep for some
time, if they are not exposed to a strong light.
Washing as ordinary photographic prints are treated will improve them a
little. If the instructions are followed, many beautiful objects can be
preserved in color.--Contributed by J. B. Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.
Dishwasher and Drier
Where hot water is available the dishwasher illustrated is especially
suitable. It is easily constructed and inexpensive, the only real
expense being for the tank, which is 15 in. deep and 20 in. in
diameter. A washer of these dimensions will hold the dishes from a
table serving six to eight persons. The tank may be supported on legs
if desired.
[Illustration: The Hot Water from the Faucet is Forced over the Dishes
in a Fine Spray]
The supports for holding the dishes in a vertical position are made
of wire in a U-shape, the ends being fastened into two wood hoops that
snugly fit the inside of the tank, one near the bottom and the other
about 9 in. above the first one. The wires are set about 1¹⁄₂ in. apart
and radiate from the center like wire spokes in a wheel.
A funnel-shaped piece, having a hole 5 in. in diameter in the center,
is made of mesh wire and hung in place with several wires running to
the upper edge of the tank. Hooks are attached to the edge of the hole
on which cups and glasses are hung.
The cover consists of a wood disk, with a hole bored in its center for
a ¹⁄₂-in. pipe. The piece of pipe used should be 3 or 4 in. longer than
the depth of the tank. A long thread is cut on the lower end of the
pipe, and two rectangular holes are cut in the pipe end through the
threaded part. These holes are made by cutting through the pipe as if
making a slot for a key. Two large nuts are run on the threads of the
pipe. These nuts should be thick enough to cover the slot in the pipe.
A pipe cap is then screwed on the end of the pipe. The upper end of
the pipe is attached to a hose connected to the hot-water faucet. By
separating the two nuts just a little, a fine spray of water will be
forced out of the holes.
When the dishes are in place the spray of hot water can be directed
over them by moving the pipe up and down through the hole in the cover.
After the dishes are washed sufficiently the hose is removed and the
tank placed over a gas jet so that the heat will pass up through the
funnel-shaped attachment in the bottom of the tank. The dishes, already
heated by the hot water, soon dry in the heat from the gas jet. If
desired, the tank can be allowed to remain over the jet until the next
meal is ready to serve, using a very small flame.--Contributed by W. K.
Baxter, Massillon, O.
* * * * *
¶To empty a large sack filled with heavy material, turn or roll it
over a barrel.
How to Make Pop-Corn Cakes
[Illustration: The Pop Corn When Formed into Cakes About One Inch Thick
is Easily Handled]
It is very difficult to take a bite from a ball of pop corn, and it
becomes more difficult as the ball increases in size. As a large
number of balls were required for a church entertainment I decided to
make the pop corn into cakes. This was more easily accomplished than
first imagined with the use of a cake-forming device as shown in the
illustration. The body of the former was made of a baking-powder can
with the bottom removed. The cover of the can was nailed to the top of
an old table with its flange upward. A plunger of wood was made to fit
snugly inside of the can and a lever, about 3 ft. long, attached to it
and fulcrumed to the wall.
After the pop corn has been prepared with the sirup, it is placed in
the can and compressed. The can is then lifted out of the cover and
the pop-corn cake removed. This method offers a much better way to
serve pop corn than in balls. In making the cakes, the can, cover, and
plunger must be kept well covered with butter.--Contributed by Howard
A. Hopkins, Youngstown, New York.
Threading a Darning Needle
Having occasion to use a darning needle, the eye of which was too small
to insert the yarn in the usual manner, I tried the following method
with good results. A thread was doubled and passed through the eye, and
the loop thus formed was used to pull the yarn through.--Contributed by
Joe Henderson, Eldred, Ill.
A Fish Scaler
[Illustration: Bottle Caps Nailed to a Wood Block for Removing Scales
from a Fish]
All kinds of devices, both simple and complex, have been made and
patented for use in scaling fish, but for a novelty I found the
following, which necessity compelled me to improvise on an outing trip,
to be as efficient as any of them. As usual, the commissary, in making
up the outfit, neglected to take the curry comb to clean the fish,
and at the same time remembered to take a plentiful supply of bottled
goods. Long before it became necessary to scale any fish enough bottles
had been opened to provide the basis of a tool for the purpose, which
I constructed by using the small tin bottle caps, a few being nailed
on a block of wood, about 3 in. wide by 4 in. long, making a splendid
fish scaler, as good and efficient at home as in the camp, and both
inexpensive and easily made. The sketch shows the general appearance.--
Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago.
A Disappearing Towel
[Illustration: The Weight Draws the Towel into the Case Out of Sight
When Not in Use]
Nothing is more unsightly to a stranger entering a home than a dirty
towel in either the bathroom or the kitchenette. To keep the towel
out of sight I made a hanger as shown in the illustration. A wire
was bent into shape similar to a clothes hanger and a sliding clip
made to hold the towel in place. A cabinet was made to accommodate
the towel, and the hanger was attached to a cord run over a pulley
fastened at the top, through a weight pulley, and then tied to a screw
eye at the top. The weight draws the towel into the cabinet. Near
the bottom edge a slot was cut and a small panel fitted in it. This
small panel is fastened to the lower end of the towel. It is only
necessary to pull out the small panel to get at the towel. When through
with the towel, let loose of it and the weight will draw it into the
opening.--Contributed by Chas. C. Bradley, W. Toledo, O.
Ammonia-Carrying Case for Insect Bites
[Illustration]
An old clinical-thermometer case can be easily turned into a vial in
which to carry ammonia for insect bites. Fit a small rubber stopper in
the case, then push a darning needle into the stopper so that its end
will be a little more than midway in the case. Cut or break off the
needle end projecting on the outside and attach a small wad of cotton
to the inside end. The case is then filled with ammonia. For bee stings
this works fine, as the ammonia completely neutralizes the formic acid
which the bee deposits.--Contributed by E. Everett Buchanan, Elmira,
N. Y.
* * * * *
¶The contact points of a firm-joint caliper should never be struck on
hard surfaces to adjust them.
How to Make Combined Kites
BY C. M. MILLER
PART II--A Festooned Kite
More than one kite on the same framework is known as a compound kite.
The one illustrated consists of three tailless kites on one long
stick, called the spine. The upper one is 3 ft.; the center one, 2
ft., and the lower one, 1 ft. in width. There will be needed for the
construction of this kite a stick of light wood--spruce is best, but
it may be of pine or bass--7 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in. If the wood
breaks easily it will be better to increase the width from ¹⁄₂ in. to
³⁄₄ in., or the stick might be made ³⁄₈ in. thick without increasing
the width, but with a good spruce stick the dimensions first given
will be sufficient. The stick should be straight-grained and without
a twist. If the spine is twisted, the kites will not lie flat or in a
plane with each other, and if one is out of true, it will cause the
kite to be unsteady in the air. The bow sticks are three, the upper one
being 4 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in.; the center one, 2 ft. long by ¹⁄₄
by ³⁄₈ in., and the lower one, 1 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₄ in. About five
sheets of tissue paper will be required, but more may be needed for
color combinations. The so-called French tissue paper is much better,
as it comes in fine colors and is much stronger than the ordinary
tissue. It costs a trifle more, but it pays in making a beautiful kite.
The Chinese rice paper is the strongest, but it comes only in natural
colors.
[Illustration: The Spine with the Bow Sticks Properly Spaced as Shown
by the Dimensions]
[Illustration: The Kite as It Appears with the Festoons Hung to the
Ends of the Sticks]
It will be seen that the kites do not extend to the top and bottom of
the spine stick. The first bow stick is placed 13 in. from the top end
of the spine, and each of its ends extends 6 in. beyond the kite for
fastening the festoons. The bow sticks should be lashed to the spine,
not nailed. Wind diagonally around the two sticks, both left and right,
then wind between the two, around the other windings. This draws all
windings up tightly to prevent slipping.
To string up the upper kite, drill a small hole through the spine, 6
in. from the top, at A, and also 6 in. from each end of the bow stick,
at B and C. If a small drill is not available, notch the stick with a
knife or saw to hold the string. Another hole is made in the spine 29
in. from the upper bow stick, or at D. Tie the outline string at A,
then pass through the hole at C, then through D, up through B and back
to the starting point at A. In tying the last point, draw up the string
tightly, but not enough to spring the spine or bow. Measure carefully
to see if the distance AC is the same as AB, and if CD is equal to BD.
If they are not, shift the string until they are equal and wind at all
points, as shown at E, to prevent further slipping. Proceed in the same
way with the center and lower kite, and it will be ready for the cover.
The cover tissue should be cut about 1 in. larger all around than the
surface to be covered, but turn over about half of this allowance. This
will give plenty of looseness to the cover. For the fringe festoons,
cut strips of tissue paper, 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, paste ¹⁄₂ in. of one long
edge over a string, and cut slits with scissors at intervals of 1
in. along the loose edge. After the fringe has been made, attach it
as shown in the illustration. Do not stretch it tightly, but give
sufficient looseness to make each length form a graceful curve and keep
the sides well balanced.
To bend the bows of the upper and center kites, attach a string from
end to end of each bow on the back side of the kite and spring in short
brace sticks in the manner usual for tailless kites.
Attach the upper end of the bridle at A. The length of the bridle
string is 87 in. and the kite line is attached to it 30 in. from A,
leaving the lower part from this point to F, where it is tied to the
spine, 57 in. long.
The kite should fly without a tail, but if it dodges too much, attach
extra streamers to the ends of the bow sticks of the lower kite, and to
the bottom of the spine.
If good combinations of colors are used a very beautiful kite will be
the result, and one that will fly well.
Simple Experiment in Electromagnetism
[Illustration: A Small Coil of Wire Mounted on a Cork Floating in
Dilute Sulphuric Acid]
The following simple experiment, which may be easily performed, will
serve to prove the theory that there is a magnetic field produced
about a conductor carrying a current, and that there is a definite
relation between the direction of the current in the conductor and the
direction, or polarity, of the magnetic field produced by the current.
The current in the experiment is to be produced by a battery consisting
of a small copper and zinc plate fastened to the under side of a large
flat cork, as shown in the sketch, the whole being placed in a glass or
rubber vessel partly filled with diluted sulphuric acid. A small coil
of wire is formed and mounted on top of the cork, and its terminals
are connected to the copper and zinc plates. The electromotive force
generated will cause a current to circulate through the coil from the
copper plate to the zinc plate. If the poles of a permanent magnet be
presented in turn to the same side of the coil it will be found that
there is a force of attraction between one pole of the permanent magnet
and the coil, and a force of repulsion between the other pole and the
coil. If the same operation be performed on the opposite side of the
coil, it will be found that the force between the poles of the magnet
and the coil are just the reverse of what they were in the first case;
that is, the pole that attracted the coil in the first case will now
repel it, and the one that repelled it, will now attract it. Applying
one of the fundamental laws of magnetism--like poles attract and unlike
repel each other--it can be readily seen that the two sides of the coil
are of opposite magnetic polarity.
If the direction of the current around the coil be changed, the action
between the coil and the magnet will be opposite to what it was
originally, and if the plates be placed in clean water, there will be
no current and no attraction or repulsion between the coil and the
poles of the magnet.
Double Lock for a Shed
[Illustration]
Four boys using the same shed as their workshop wished to lock it so
that any one of them could enter alone. Usually only two keys are
supplied with a lock, so two locks were purchased and applied to the
staples as shown. Each boy was provided with a key and could enter at
his pleasure.--Contributed by George Alfred Moore, Versailles, O.
Ferrules for Tool Handles
[Illustration]
Discarded metal caps from broken gas-mantle holders should be saved, as
they will come in handy for several purposes, such as ferrules on wood
handles, and the like. The wire screen is removed from the end, and the
cap is fastened to the handle with a nail or screw.--Contributed by
James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Mallet Made from Wagon-Wheel Felly and Spoke
[Illustration: A Well-Shaped Mallet Made from a Section of a
Wagon-Wheel Felly and Spoke]
When in need of a mallet and if an old broken and discarded wagon
wheel is at hand, one can be made quickly as follows: Cut through the
rim at A and B, and through the spoke at any distance desired, as at
C, for instance. The spoke is dressed into the shape of a handle and
sandpapered smooth. The section of the felly is used as head and is
shaped properly and fastened to the handle with two nails.--Contributed
by Mark Gluckman, Jersey City, New Jersey.
A Mystery Sounding Glass
Procure a thin, tapering drinking glass, a piece of thin, black thread,
about 2 ft. long, and a long lead pencil. Cut a small groove around the
pencil near one end. Make a slip noose in each end of the thread and
slip one into the notch and place the thin glass in the other with the
thread near the top. When the pencil is revolved slowly the thread will
be wound on it slightly and it will slip back with a jerk that produces
a ring in the glass. This may be kept up indefinitely. The movement
necessary is so small that it is imperceptible. The glass can be made
to answer questions by two rings for “yes” and one ring for “no.”
* * * * *
¶A lighted match held to the outside of a fish-pole joint causes an
expansion of the outer ferrule and allows the pole to be readily
pulled apart.
Repairing a Broken Canoe Paddle
[Illustration]
While paddling a rented canoe one day the paddle struck a rock and
snapped in two a little below the center of the handle. The boatman
laughed at the idea of trying to fix it, but after paying his price for
the paddle I decided to try mending it. The barrel of an old bicycle
pump was procured and I found that it fitted over the paddle at the
break a trifle loosely. It was pushed on the handle out of the way.
Then with a No. 8 bit I bored a hole 8 in. deep in the end of each
broken part. Into these holes, which formed one cavity when the broken
ends were brought together, was forced and glued a tight-fitting 16-in.
dowel pin. The outside of the handle was then wrapped with tape for
about 10 in. each side of the break, and the pump barrel was forced
down over this tape until it completely and firmly enveloped the broken
ends.--Contributed by Clarence G. Meyers, Waterloo, Iowa
Tightening Lever for Tennis Nets
[Illustration: The Upper Rope on a Tennis Net Held Taut with a Lever on
the Post]
Tennis nets are always sagging and to keep them at the proper height
requires considerable attention, especially so where the posts are not
solidly set in the ground. A very effective net tightener, and one that
is easy to make is the lever shown in the illustration. One end of a
piece of hardwood board is shaped into a handle the other end being
left large. In the latter a hole is cut to fit loosely over the post
for the net. The upper end of the post is notched and a sheave pulley
is placed in it so that the groove will be in line with the net. The
upper rope on the net is run over the pulley and is attached to the
lever handle. A downward pressure on the handle draws the rope taut and
locks it on the post. It is easily removed from the post and can be
left attached to the rope and rolled up in the net when not in use.
A Desk Watch Holder
[Illustration]
A watch holder for the desk is a great convenience for the busy worker,
and many calendar devices are sold for this purpose, yet they are no
more efficient than the one illustrated, which can be made from an
ordinary spindle desk file. If the wire is too long it can be cut off
and the bend made in it to form a hook for the watch ring.
Cleaning Silverware
To clean silverware or anything made of the precious metals, such as
jewelry, etc., is very simple with the following method: Place a piece
of zinc in a cup, dish, or any glazed ware; put in the articles to be
cleaned, and pour over them a hot solution of water and carbonate of
soda--washing soda--in proportions of one tablespoonful of soda to ¹⁄₂
gal. of water. This is a solution and method used by many jewelers for
cleaning pins, rings, chains, and many other small articles made in
gold and silver.
* * * * *
¶A machine should never be stopped in the midst of a fine cut.
[Illustration]
An Eight-Pointed Star Kite
BY CHARLES M. MILLER
Nearly every boy can make kites of the several common varieties without
special directions. For the boy who wants a kite that is not like
those every other boy makes, an eight-pointed star kite, decorated in
an original and interesting manner, in various colors, is well worth
while, even if it requires more careful work, and extra time. The star
kite shown in Fig. 1 is simple in construction, and if carefully made,
will fly to a great height. It is balanced by streamers instead of
the common type of kite tail. Any regular-shaped kite should be laid
out accurately, as otherwise the error appears very prominent, and
unbalances the poise of the kite.
The frame for this star kite is made of four sticks, joined, as
indicated in Fig. 5, with strings running from one corner to the second
corner beyond, as from A to C, from C to E, etc. A little notching of
each pair of sticks lessens the thickness of the sticks at the center
crossing, and strengthens the frame, The sticks are ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in.
by 4 ft. long, They are set at right angles to each other in pairs,
and lashed together with cord, and also held by a ³⁄₄-in. brad at the
center. The strings that form the sides of the squares, A to G, and B
to H, must be equal in length when tied. The points where the strings
forming the squares cross each other and the sticks are also tied.
The first cover, which is put on with paste, laying it out on a smooth
floor or table as usual in kite making, is plain light-colored paper.
The darker decorations are pasted onto this. The outside edges of
the cover are turned over the string outline, and pasted down. The
colors may be in many combinations, as red and white, purple and gold,
green and white, etc. Brilliant and contrasting colors are best. The
decoration may proceed from the center out, or the reverse. The outside
edge in the design shown has a 1¹⁄₂-in. black stripe. The figures are
black. The next octagonal black line binds the design together. The
points of the star are dark blue, with a gilt stripe on each. The
center design is done in black, dark blue, and gilt.
[Illustration: FIG. 2
FIG. 4
FIG. 3
FIG. 5
FIG. 1
The Boy Who Makes a Star Kite of This Type will Have a Construction
Different from the Common Run of Kites, Especially If He Decorates It
in an Attractive Manner]
The flags are tied on, and the tassels are easily made of cord. The
outside streamers are at least 6 ft. long, and balanced carefully.
Ribbons, or dark-colored lining cambric, are used for them. The
funnel-shaped ends balance the kite. They are shown in detail in Figs.
2, 3, and 4, and have 1-in. openings at the bottom, through which the
air passes, causing a pull that steadies the kite. They are of dark
blue, and the cloth fringe is of light blue. A thin reed, or fine wire,
is used for the hoop which stiffens the top. Heavy wrapping or cover
paper is used to cover the hoops. It is cut as shown in Fig. 4 and
rolled into shape.
A four-string bridle is fastened to the frame at I, J, K, and L, as
shown. The upper strings are each 18 in., and the lower ones 32 in.
long, to the point where they come together, and must be adjusted after
the kite line is fastened at M.
Second Handle on Hoe or Rake Saves Stooping
[Illustration: Much of the Tiring Labor in Using a Hoe or Rake is
Overcome by This Simple Homemade Attachment]
Anyone who has used a hoe or rake for days at a time will appreciate
the labor saved by the attachment for the handle shown in the
illustration. It is adjustable to various-sized persons by means of the
holes at the front end of the horizontal piece. The two parts are each
made of strips joined at the middle portions, and arranged to clamp
on the handle of the hoe or rake. In hoeing around shrubs and large
plants, the handle may be set to one side.--A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg,
Ont., Canada.
Photo-Copying Lens Increases Angle of Camera
Trying to take some indoor pictures I found the angle of my ordinary
lens was insufficient to “get in” the various objects I desired. Not
having a wide angle lens, I decreased the focal length of the lens
by using a copying attachment. The results were quite pleasing and
while there is some distortion and less of the plate is covered than
usual, there is a remarkable increase in the angle of view. To obtain
definition, it is necessary to stop the lens down, but the pictures are
very clear.--Samuel L. Pickett, Denver, Colo.
Belt for Sprocket Drive Made of Brass Strips
[Illustration]
Being unable to purchase a small driving chain for sprockets made by
cutting out every other tooth in gears taken from a clockwork, I used a
brass strip, properly punched, and found it satisfactory. The strip was
.005 in. thick and the points where the holes were to be punched out
were indicated by dividers set from the gears. I made a punch from a
nail leaving a small center on it as shown and grinding the end to an
oblong shape. I used a piece of sheet lead as a die, on which to punch
the strips. The marks made by the dividers provided spots on which to
set the center of the punch, making the result quite accurate.--Edward
M. Davis, Philadelphia, Pa.
Rain Alarm with Drop-of-Water Contact
[Illustration: A Drop of Rain Water Completes the Bell Circuit, Thus
Giving Warning of the Rain]
An annunciating device, which awakens a person sleeping in a room
with the window open and warns him that it is raining, so that he may
close the window, is an interesting bit of electrical construction. On
the outside of the house, as detailed, is a funnel fixed to the wall.
At its small end, two separate wires have their terminals. The wires
enter the room at the frame of the window, and connect to an electric
bell, and a dry cell. A drop of water entering the funnel, flows down
to the small end, falling on the terminals of the wires, and acting as
a conductor, completes the circuit, ringing the bell. A switch inside
cuts out the circuit, stopping the bell’s ringing.--John M. Chabot,
Lauzon, Quebec, Can.
Coaster Steering Gear Made from Cream-Freezer Drive
[Illustration: A Steering Rig That Works Almost Like That on an
Automobile was Made Out of the Driving Parts of an Old Ice-Cream
Freezer]
In rebuilding a wagon into an automobile coaster, I used the driving
rod and gears from an old ice-cream freezer, and found that it worked
so well that perhaps other boys might be interested in the job. The
front of the coaster was covered with a hood, and the steering wheel
was set back of it, as shown. The center rod of the freezer was used
for the steering post F, and an old rubber-tired wheel was made into
a steering wheel. The casting from the top of the freezer, with the
gears in it, and the rod on which the turning crank was fastened were
set on a block, H, and braced, as shown. The shaft where the crank was
fastened, at B, was set through the wagon bed. A crosspiece of iron,
A, was wired to the axle D with wires C. A heavy block was used for a
turntable. The top end of the casting was fastened to the hood with
a brace, G, and the block H steadies the rigging also.--L. Chester
Bryant, El Dorado, Ark.
Pad for Glass Vessels Made of Corks
In the kitchen, shop, laboratory, and other places where glass or other
fragile dishes or vessels are used, a convenient pad on which to rest
them can be made by stringing corks on a strong cord or wire in the
form of a ring. Several rings of corks may be used to make a mat, or
rings slightly larger in diameter than the bottle or vessel may be
made for certain sizes of containers. If desired, the corks may be cut
to fit closely on the radial joints, making the resulting ring more
secure.
A Shaving Lamp and Mirror for the Camp
[Illustration]
To make shaving possible in camp at night, or with little daylight, a
small mirror was provided with an electric flash light. The mirror was
set to swing free, in a wooden support. The light was fastened slightly
above and behind the mirror. and swings at its base, so that it can be
tipped upward or downward, throwing the light correspondingly. A piece
of wood, 1¹⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₂ in., and as long as the mirror frame is wide,
serves as a base. The arms will hold the mirror far enough in front of
the lamp to allow room in which to swing. The body of the lamp is set
on a block, and held between two wooden pieces, into which a band of
iron was set near the top. The uprights move in an arc, pivoting at
their lower fastening, on screws.--C. L. Meller, Fargo, N. D.
Automatic Electric Light on Talking-Machine Cabinet
[Illustration]
In many homes the phonograph is placed where little light is available
in changing the records, setting the needle etc. An electric light
which is lighted only while the cover of the phonograph is raised, is
well worth installing. A metal arm, A, supports the open cover of the
cabinet. When the cover is closed, this arm passes through a slot and
takes the position shown by the dotted line. A strip of spring brass,
B, is fastened to the inside wall of the cabinet, in the path of the
arm, so that it will be pushed down to the off position, as indicated.
When the arm releases the strip B, the latter presses against the
contact C. A small electric lamp, D, is set in the corner, and
electrical connection made to it through B and C, the plug connections
passing through the back of the cabinet. When the cover is down, the
electric circuit is open, and the moment it is raised, connection is
made at C, and the lamp lights. The backs of most phonograph cabinets
may be removed easily to make these changes.--M. C. Ball, Kansas City,
Mo.
Device for Suspending Parcels from Overhead Hooks
[Illustration]
To hang small sacks or other articles out of reach overhead, so that
they may be easily taken down, I use a double-eye hook which I made of
wire. A single piece of wire is used, and twisted into two loops as
shown, and then formed into a twisted hook. I use a pole with a nail,
hooking it into the lower loop, to raise the parcel; this leaves the
upper loop free to be hooked on the nail above.--E. B. Warren, Garnet,
Mont.
Steel Wool as Aluminum-Ware Cleaner
It takes little trouble to keep aluminium pots and pans shining if they
are cleaned frequently with steel wool, water, and a nonalkaline soap.
Use a very fine grade of the wool, and give the utensils a few rubs
frequently rather than attempt to clean them only occasionally, when
much soiled.--L. P. Langan, Denver, Colo.
[Illustration]
How to Make a Model Old-Four Monoplane
BY RALPH M. BROWN
The old-four monoplane model, made famous by its wonderful flights,
is one of the most graceful that has been built. Its large size and
slow, even glide make it a much more desirable flier than the ordinary
dartlike model. It gives one a true insight into the phenomena of
heavier-than-air flight. This machine, when complete, should weigh 9
oz. and fly 1,200 ft., rising from the ground under its own power and
landing lightly. Its construction is simple, and with careful reference
to the sketches, an exact reproduction may be made.
For the motor bases, A, Fig. 1, secure two spruce sticks, each 48 in.
long, ³⁄₈ in. wide, and ¹⁄₄ in. thick, and fasten a wire hook on one
end of each stick with thread wound around after giving it a coat of
glue. These hooks are to hold one end of the rubber bands that act as
the motive power, and are designated by the letter B. At the opposite
ends of the sticks, at C, bearings are provided, which consist of
blocks of wood, each 1 in. long, 1 in. wide, and ³⁄₈ in. thick. These
are also bound in place with thread after gluing them. Holes are
drilled through the blocks lengthwise and then lined with bushings made
of brass tubing, ¹⁄₁₆ in. in inside diameter. The two motor bases A
are connected with four cross sticks, D, each 9 in. long and ³⁄₁₆ in.
square. These are bound and glued on the under side, one near each end
and the others equidistant each from the other and from the nearest end
stick. The front bumper E is made of round rattan, ¹⁄₈ in. in diameter.
[Illustration: The Mechanical Bird will Run About Five Feet on the
Ground and Then Rise and Fly]
The alighting gear is next in order of construction. This is made as
shown entirely of bamboo, ³⁄₁₆ in. square. The pieces marked F are 11
in. long; G, 9¹⁄₂ in. long, and the cross bar H, 11 in. long. At the
rear, the pieces J are 13 in. long; K, 4¹⁄₂ in. long, and the cross
piece L, 11 in. long. The distance between the points M and N, Fig. 2,
is 6 in., and between O and P, 9 in. The bamboo is easily curved by
wetting and holding it for an instant in the flame of a candle. It will
hold its shape just as soon as it becomes cold. The wheels are made of
tin, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, borrowed from a toy automobile. The axles
are made from wire, ¹⁄₁₆ in. in diameter.
The wing spars Q are made of spruce, ³⁄₁₆ in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick.
Those for the front are 30 in. long, and for the rear, 36 in. long.
The ribs R are made of bamboo pieces, ¹⁄₁₆ in. square, 5 in. long for
the front plane, and 6 in. for the rear. These are bound and glued on
top of the spars, 3 in. apart. They are given a slight upward curve.
The round ends are made of ¹⁄₁₆-in. rattan.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
The Motor Base is Made of Two Spruce Sticks Joined Together with Four
Cross Sticks, Bound and Glued to the Under Side]
It is rather difficult to make good propellers, but with a little time
and patience they can be shaped and formed into good proportions.
Procure two clear, straight-grained blocks of white pine, 8 in. long,
1¹⁄₂ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick. Draw a diagonal line on one block
from opposite corners, as shown at S, Fig. 3, then on the other block
T, draw the line in an opposite direction. Turn the blocks over and
draw opposite diagonals, as shown by the dotted lines. Draw a circle on
each side exactly in the center, ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter. Drill ¹⁄₁₆-in.
holes through the centers of the circles for the propeller shafts. The
wood is then cut down to the lines drawn, leaving only enough material
so that they will not break easily. The face of the blades should be
flat and the back rounded. Leave plenty of stock near the hub. After
the faces have been finished, the blades are shaped as shown at U. The
propellers should be finished with sandpaper to make them perfectly
smooth, as much of the success of the model will depend upon them.
It will be a good plan to shellac them, and also the frame and the
alighting gear. Aluminum paint costs but little, and it makes a fine
finish for a model aeroplane.
The propeller shafts V, Fig. 1, 2, and 4, are cut from bicycle spokes.
An eye for the rubber band is bent in the spoke, about 2 in. from the
threaded end. The end having the threads is run through the bearing
block C, Fig. 4, and the propeller fastened on with a small washer on
each side of it by means of two nuts, W, cut from a bicycle nipple.
These nuts may be turned up tightly with pliers.
The planes are covered with tissue paper put on tightly over the tops
of the ribs, using a flour paste. The planes are movably fixed on
the motor bases A by tying at the four points of contact with rubber
bands. This makes it possible to adjust the fore-and-aft balance of the
machine by changing the position of the planes.
The motive power, which is the most important part of the entire
machine, consists of rubber bands. There are three ways of obtaining
these bands. It is best, if possible, to purchase them from an
aeroplane supply house. In this case, procure about 100 ft. of ¹⁄₁₆-in.
square rubber, 50 ft. for each side. These are wound closely between
the hooks X. This rubber can be taken from a golf ball. It will require
about 40 strands of this rubber, which is removed by cutting into the
ball, on each propeller. Another way of obtaining the bands is to
purchase No. 19 rubber bands and loop them together, chain-fashion, to
make them long enough to reach between the hooks without stretching.
About 30 strands on each propeller will be sufficient. The hooks X are
made in the shape of the letter “S,” to provide a way for taking out
the rubber bands quickly. To prevent the hooks from cutting the rubber,
slip some ¹⁄₁₆-in. rubber tubing over them. The rubber bands, or motor,
when not in use, should be kept in a cool, dark place and powdered with
French chalk to prevent the parts from sticking together.
[Illustration: FIG. 2
The Alighting Gear is Made Entirely of Bamboo and Attached to the Under
Side of the Motor Frame]
With the model complete, flying is the next thing in order. With a
machine as large as this one, quite a field will be necessary to give
it a good flight. Test the plane by gliding it, that is, holding it
up by the propellers and bearing blocks on a level with your head and
throwing it forward on an even keel. Shift the planes forward or back
until it balances and comes to the ground lightly.
Winding up the propellers is accomplished by means of an eye inserted
in the chuck of an ordinary hand drill. While an assistant grasps the
propellers and motor bearings the rubber is unhooked from the front
of the machine and hooked into the eye in the drill. Stretch the
rubber out for about 10 ft., and as it is wound up, let it draw back
gradually. Wind up the propellers in opposite directions, turning them
from 400 to 800 revolutions. Be sure to wind both propellers the same
number of turns, as this will assure a straight flight.
[Illustration: FIG. 3
The Most Difficult Part of Making the Propellers can be Overcome with a
Little Patience]
Set the machine on the ground and release both propellers at once, and
at the same time push it forward. If everything is properly constructed
and well balanced, the mechanical bird will run about 5 ft. on the
ground and then rise to 15 or 20 ft. and fly from 800 to 1,200 ft.,
descending in a long glide and alighting gracefully.
[Illustration: FIG. 4
The Motive Power, Which Is the Most Important Part of the Machine,
Consists of Rubber Bands]
If the machine fails to rise, move the forward plane toward the front.
If it climbs up suddenly and hangs in the air and falls back on its
tail, move it toward the back.
After the novelty of overland flights has worn off, try flights over
the water. To do this the wheels must be removed and four pontoons put
in their place, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 2. The pontoons
are made over a light frame, constructed as shown in Fig. 5. The frame
pieces are bamboo, ¹⁄₈ in. square. Each one is 8 in. long, 4 in. wide,
and 2 in. deep. The covering consists of writing paper glued in place,
after which the whole surface is covered with melted paraffin to make
it water-tight.
[Illustration: FIG. 5
Framework for Constructing Pontoons by Covering Them with Writing Paper
Soaked in Paraffin]
No doubt various methods will be suggested by the time such flights are
made, such as smaller planes for racing, larger ones for altitude and
duration, etc. To make the machine carry weights, build a duplicate set
of planes and fasten them 6 in. above the others by means of struts,
³⁄₁₆ in. square, forming a tandem biplane, as shown by the dotted lines
in Fig. 2.
Patience is the one thing necessary in model budding. Sometimes a
machine carefully made will not fly, and no one can make it do so until
some seemingly unimportant alteration is made.
How to Make a Pair of Trammels
The making of these trammels is a very nice workshop problem for a
school, as it requires a very small amount of stock and a corresponding
degree of skill, and at the same time adds a little something to the
general shop equipment.
The brass is best procured in strips, which may be had in different
widths, except the bar, which is ¹⁄₄ in. thick and not less than ³⁄₄
in. wide. The steel for the points may be the ordinary steel, or if the
trammels are to be used on woodwork, very satisfactory points can be
made of heavy nails.
[Illustration: Trammel Points Made of a Nail and a Brass Strip to Fit
the Bar]
Cut two pieces of brass, 4¹⁄₄ in. long, and straighten them with a
wood or rawhide mallet on a surface plate. Draw center lines both ways
through each piece and lay out the openings for the bar with a sharp
scriber, and make a center-punch mark for the ¹⁄₈-in. hole that is to
be drilled at the intersection of the center lines. Mark the lines
where the piece is to be bent, and with a pair of dividers lay out the
ends and shape them with a file.
The center hole and bar openings are next drilled, and the latter
finished by filing. It is better to plane up a short piece of
hard wood, ¹⁄₄ by ¹³⁄₁₆ in., and use it as a gauge in filing the
rectangular openings than to try to make them by measurement. Polish
the brass pieces with a piece of fine emery cloth or paper, rubbing it
in straight lines lengthwise of the stock.
The bending is done by clamping the pieces in a vise and bending first
one side and then the other on the lines indicated. This will require
some care, as the upper ends should be 1¹⁄₄ in. apart on the inside
when the bending is complete. To insure the same angle on both sides, a
template of wood is used, and the pieces are carefully bent to fit it.
The holes for the points are reamed tapering from the inside, where
they are riveted in place. The points are filed to shape and polished,
which is best accomplished in a lathe. Clamp one of the points in an
upright position in a vise with the shouldered end up. Slip one of the
brass pieces in place and rivet by upsetting the projecting end with a
light hammer.--Contributed by J. A. Shelly, Brooklyn, N. Y.
Seeding Bare Spots on Lawns
[Illustration]
A lawn that shows patches of grass with bare spots, or only partly
covered with grass can be sown with seed that will fill the uncovered
places by using the tool illustrated. It is made of a block of wood,
1 in. thick, into which several large nails are driven so that their
ends project about 1¹⁄₂ in. Another block is fastened on top of the
nail heads to keep them from pushing out of their holes. A handle is
attached to the latter block.
The tool is used by driving it into the earth where there is no grass,
or in thin places, and the grass seed is sprinkled into the holes.
In raking over the lawn the young grass is not so apt to be torn out
and destroyed before it gets a good root.--Contributed by Edmund H.
Trabold, Orange, N. J.
A Porch Swing
[Illustration: A Porch Swing Having a Rail That Incloses the Person
Sitting in It]
The seat of the swing consists of a board, 30 in. long, 14 in. wide,
and 1 in. thick, with holes bored in each corner for the ropes. The
rail at the top is made of four oak pieces, two of them 30 in. long,
for the sides, and the other two 18 in. long, for the ends; all 3 in.
wide and ⁷⁄₈ in. thick. The ends of these pieces are finished rounding,
and holes are bored in them for the supporting ropes. The supports for
the rails consist of four pieces of ³⁄₄-in. pipe, 15 in. long. The
ropes are run through the holes in the ends of the rails, down through
the pipes and through the holes in the seat board, where they are
knotted.
A rope tied to a convenient post or screw hook makes a handy way to
give motion by pulling. To get into the swing, raise one of the side
rails on the rope.--Contributed by Ward M. Mills, Bakersfield, Cal.
* * * * *
¶Cover the top and side of ice in a refrigerator with a piece of
Canton flannel, and the ice will last longer.
Sheepshank Knot Used to Recover Rope
[Illustration: Only a Small Portion of the Rope will be Left on the
Projection]
The knot shown has a peculiar characteristic which enables a person
to recover the rope after letting himself down from some elevated
position. After the rope has been tied firmly to some support, as a
limb of a tree, tie this knot, or “sheepshank,” as high up as possible.
Close inspection will show that one of the three sections of the knot
holds no part of the weight below. This section is identified as the
portion which projects through the loops A and B at both ends. The
other sections project through at one end only. When the knot has been
arranged, slide down carefully to a position just below it and cut the
rope at C; then descend to the ground. By shaking the rope the knot
may be loosened, and only a short piece will be left attached to the
support.--Contributed by F. R. Gorton, Ypsilanti, Michigan.
Writing Two Colors on a Plain-Ribbon Typewriter
To write red, or any other color, on a one-color ribbon typewriter
place a long enough piece of red carbon paper, or the color desired,
between the ribbon and the paper. It will hold its place quite well,
does the work as well as a two-color ribbon used on expensive machines,
and does not cost very much.--Contributed by Leslie E. Turner, New York
City.
A Simple Card Deception
The effect of this trick is not new, but the method is a new one. A
card is selected by a spectator and noted, then returned to the pack,
which is shuffled by the one drawing the card. Despite the thorough
mixing the correct card is located by cutting the pack. The secret is
this: When the card is chosen, the chooser is allowed to remove it from
the pack. The performer then takes it and holds it up and asks the
audience to fix it in their minds. While doing this, allow the thumb
nail of the index finger to slightly graze the edge of the card. This
will not show, nor can it be detected by the holder, and he suspects
nothing of the kind. When returned to the deck and shuffled the pack is
evened up for cutting. A glance at the edges will show a small white
spot distinctly, as the scraped edge will contrast with the other
soiled cards. It is simple to cut the pack from this key.--Contributed
by John C. Moorehead, Minneapolis, Minn.
Catching Minnows for Bait
Instead of chasing the little fish up and down the stream to catch
enough for bait, try putting a clean bit of shell in a wide-mouth jar
and holding it in the water. The minnows will be attracted in great
numbers, and it is an easy matter to dip them up. A bit of shell can be
used also in a net. The white, shining shell seems to be a good lure
for the little fellows.--Contributed by Miriam Colchester, Amherst,
Can.
Grinding Writing and Lettering Pens
A fine or coarse writing or lettering pen can be produced quickly by
means of an oilstone. By rubbing it at the sides of the nibs, the
pen is made finer, and grinding across the ends makes it coarser. By
grasping the penholder in the normal writing position, and writing
lightly on the surface of the stone, the pen may be ground to the style
of the user, making it write more smoothly. If the pen scratches, a
slight touching up on the stone, which should be a fine hone, will
remedy the difficulty.
Pneumatic Door Check Made of Bicycle Pump
[Illustration: This Neat and Effective Door Check was Made of an Old
Bicycle Pump and a Strip of Iron, Shaped and Polished]
A door was provided with a heavy coiled spring that caused it to slam
shut, and in order to overcome this nuisance, a check was made from an
old bicycle pump. The fittings being worked out neatly, did not mar the
appearance of the woodwork. Band iron, ¹⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ in., was used for
the fittings. A clamp, as detailed, was made to hold the end of the
pump cylinder. A bracket, 5¹⁄₂ in. long, of similar iron was fastened
to the door, as shown, with screws, and the clamp bolted to it. The
end of the plunger was extended and bent at a right angle, so as to
pivot in a small angle bracket attached to the trim, as shown in the
front view. An air-release hole was provided, as indicated, so that
the air was freed from the cylinder gradually as the door closed, thus
preventing slamming.--P. P. Avery, Garfield, New Jersey.
Convenient Tool Drawer under Chair Seat
[Illustration]
For the householder who does small repairing occasionally at home, a
sliding drawer under his working chair will be found a convenience. The
tools are always handy when he sits down to his work, and he can put
them away again without arising from the chair. This arrangement is
also useful in small shops where a chair or stool is used for tinkering
and light bench work.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Red Windows in Daylight Photographic Workroom
Instead of the customary dark room, with the expense of red
incandescent lamps or the evil-smelling oil lamp, the photographer
who works during the day should have a red room, obtained by means of
a window with panes of red glass. The amateur can cover the windows
with red cloth, through which will penetrate a diffuse red light of
the desired quality. This is far superior to the common practice
of providing an opaque screen, blocking up the windows, etc., and
the screen can be made of red cloth instead of black cloth, just as
handily. Proper ventilation should, of course, be provided.--Alfred J.
Miller, Albuquerque, N. M.
A Model Paper Monoplane That can be Steered
[Illustration: 1
3 5 7
9
4 6
2 8
10
The Method of Folding the Paper is Indicated Clearly in the Diagram,
Which are to be Followed in the Order of Their Numbering, the Tail
being Inserted Separately]
An interesting bit of paper construction is a small monoplane made
from a 7-in. square of paper, folded as indicated in the diagram and
provided with a paper tail. This little monoplane can be steered by
adjusting the tail, and even made to loop the loop in the varying air
currents. For the boy who enjoys experimenting with such a model this
little construction offers much instruction and entertainment, and the
grown-up who still has an interest in such things will also find it a
worth-while job.
[Illustration: This Model Monoplane is Made of a Sheet of Paper, Seven
Inches Square, and can be Steered by Bending or Twisting the Tail]
To make this model, fold a square of medium-weight paper on the dotted
lines, as indicated in Fig. 1 in the diagram. Then unfold the sheet
and refold it as in Fig. 2. Then bring the folded corners A and B
into position, as shown at A and B in Fig. 3. Fold the corners C and
D upward to the position C and D in Fig. 4. Fold corners G and H
to the corresponding letters in Fig. 5. Fold points J and K to the
corresponding letters in Fig. 6. Raise the points J and K, Fig. 6, and
fold them in so that the corners which were below them in Fig. 6 now
come above them, as at L and M in Fig. 7. Fold the corner N back along
the line OP, Fig. 8, so that the shape of the main portion of the model
is as shown in Fig. 9, at OP. Make the tail 1¹⁄₂ by 14 in. long, as
shown in Fig. 10, and paste it into position. This completes the model,
which can be steered by bending or twisting the tail.--George H. Stipp.
Roll-Film Spools Useful in Economizing Pencils
Now that everyone should economize, short lead pencils should receive
attention. A convenient lengthener is easily made by removing the metal
ends from used film-camera spools, the 3¹⁄₄-in. length being the best
size to use. The pencil is cut to fit the unslotted end of the spindle
tightly. An eraser may be fitted in the slotted end. In a school quite
a saving was made by collecting the short pencils of the pupils and
having them thus fitted up in the workshop.--A. T. Moss, Napa, Calif.
How to Use the Lawn Mower
Difficulty in the operation of a lawn mower is often caused by failure
to use the machine properly. A lawn mower cuts like scissors except
that one of the members is fixed. The cutters pass over the cutting bar
at an angle and thus shear off the grass. The machine tends to throw
the grass off to one side, usually toward the left; hence the machine
should not be permitted to throw the cut grass back into the uncut
patch. This may be prevented by passing around the lawn so that the
uncut grass is at the right of the operator.--W. H. Kruse, Fort Wayne,
Ind.
Telegraph Recorder with Spool-and-Pencil Indicator
A simple substitute for the somewhat complicated telegraph recorders of
the inking type may be constructed of materials readily available to a
boy. The instrument shown in the sketch was made in a short time and
with no special outlay. The base and the upright support are of wood.
The armature A was made of a strip cut from a tin box, and folded to a
length of 4 in.
[Illustration: The Telegraph Recorder was Made of Materials That may be
Gathered Easily by Boys]
The recording device consists of a short piece of pencil, P, set in a
spool, S. The electromagnet M is fixed to the base, and the armature
A is actuated when current is permitted to pass through the magnet,
causing the recording pencil to move vertically. A strip of paper
is moved slowly under the pencil, and in order to make the record
regular a small channel-shaped guide of metal may be arranged under the
pencil.--William Warnecke, Jr., New York City.
Campers’ Bait Cache
[Illustration: Angleworms for Fishing Bait may be Kept Satisfactorily
in the Buried Box, Covered with Sod]
Campers desiring a sure supply of angleworms for fishing will find the
bait cache shown in the sketch convenient and practical. A box, about
18 in. long and 10 in. square on the end, is sunk into the ground in a
shady place, and all the bait dug by the campers on their arrival is
placed into it. The soil used to fill the box should be rich, black
loam, quite moist but not wet enough to be sticky. A few inches of the
top of the box is left unfilled and a double layer of green sod is
fitted over it, as shown in the sectional view at the right. The upper
sod is arranged level with the surface of the ground and should be cut
carefully so that it will not be observed by prowlers. If the region
where fishing is to be done is such that angleworms cannot be obtained
easily, it is best to dig them before starting for the camp. The bait
cache may then be made as a convenient place in which to keep the bait
in good condition for fishing.
* * * * *
¶After cleaning a shotgun, or a rifle, a cork large enough to be seen
readily should be placed in the end of the barrel to prevent rusting.
The cork should not be pressed into the end deeply as, if it is
forgotten and the firearm discharged without removing it, a dangerous
explosion may result.
A Sail-Rigged Wind Motor
BY E. R. HENDERSON
Ample power for driving light machines in a repair shop was obtained by
the use of a wind motor like that shown in the sketch and in the detail
drawings. The device has numerous other applications, particularly as a
substitute for wind motors that require a high tower, as in the driving
of a pump. As an interesting and inexpensive means of providing power
for a home or boy’s workshop, or as an experimental device, the motor
is also worth while making. The materials used are easily obtainable,
and the construction can be carried out with ordinary tools, for the
most part. The driving connections may be obtained from old machine
parts. The dimensions given are for a motor of considerable size, and
may, of course, be reduced proportionately for a lighter machine. If
the device is made by boys, the framework and other parts should be
made one-half as large as the sizes indicated. The wood used should
then be three-fourths as thick as that shown. The roof of the structure
upon which the device is mounted must be well braced and strong enough
to stand the strain. The sails are headed toward the wind, like those
on a sailboat, when the motor is at rest, by means of a control rod, F,
shown in the working drawing.
[Illustration: The Novel Wind Motor Developed Power for the Driving of
Machines in a Repair Shop, and can be Made in Various Sizes for Work or
Play Purposes]
The main structural portion is a vertical beam, or tower, tapered at
the ends and built up of 1 by 1-in. rods, strongly braced, especially
in the lower portion, as indicated. It is 14 ft. high, and built around
an 18-in. square board, A, notched at the corners to receive the posts.
A similar 14-in. square, B, is built into the lower portion. The lower
end of the tower is pivoted on the ridge of the roof on a hollow shaft
made from a section of iron pipe, D, and provided with a metal bearing
washer, E. The pipe D is split at its upper end, as shown in detail,
and fastened to the wooden plate B. The control rod F passes up through
the pipe D, and is fixed to the control wires, reaching the sails, by
means of a leather strap, from which an iron swivel, C, is suspended,
as shown in the detail at the left. The ends of the strap pass over
pulleys, fixed to the lower side of the plate A, and connect with
the sail-control wires. Spiral wire springs are attached to the wire
connected to each end of the strap, as shown only at the right sail
beam, and aid in controlling the sails. These springs are adjusted so
that when the control rod is drawn down to its lowest extent, the sails
will be with the edge “into the wind,” thus neutralizing each other,
and causing the sail beam to be at rest.
[Illustration: The Method of Construction is Shown in Detail: By Using
the Perspective Sketch in Connection with These Working Drawings, the
Arrangement of the Parts is Readily Understood]
The sail beam extends 9 ft. out from the center of the tower, and
is built up of three pieces. The center section extends through the
tower, above the plate A, and the brace beam, which crosses it at right
angles, as shown in the perspective sketch, and also at the detail
of the strap arrangement. The center section is of 1 by 4-in. stock,
and the end portions are of 1 by 2-in. stuff, fastened securely, as
shown at detail G. The sails are supported on masts, 1 in. square,
pivoted at their junctions with the sail beam, as shown at detail G,
and in guy-wire plates at their extreme ends, as shown at detail J. The
fastening and bracing of the gaffs at the mast ends is also shown at J.
The canvas sails are 4 by 4 ft., and mounted on the booms, gaffs, and
masts. The ends of the booms nearest the masts are weighted with lead,
as shown at detail G, and extend beyond the masts. The outer ends of
the booms are joined in pairs, and connect to the spring and strap
control. The guy wires N, of No. 18 wire, supporting the masts are
fixed to the ends of the sail beam and to the ends of the brace beam,
as shown in the sketch and the working drawing. The fastening at the
ends of the sail beam is made as shown at detail H, which also shows
one of the coil springs. All of the braces for the masts should be
fitted carefully, so as to have the proper tension without interfering
with the action of the sails, before the tower is set into its place.
The device should be tested on the ground, with the pivot shaft set in
a suitable support, before attempting to mount it on a roof, or other
structure. The support for the bearing should be fitted into the roof,
as shown. The power from the shaft is transmitted to the bevel gears,
and from them to the drive shaft and the belted pulley.
The main tower is supported on the roof by means of strong guy wires,
set over four built-up guy towers of 1 by 1-in. wood, and 12 ft. long,
as shown in detail L. The towers must be set so that the sail beam
has proper play and be secured firmly to the roof. The top of the
main tower is fixed to the guy wires by means of a guy plate shown in
detail K. A plan of the arrangement of the sail beam, brace beam, and
sail booms is shown at detail M. The sail beam is braced by No. 12 guy
wires, O, attached at the top of the main tower, at the junction of
the two sections of the beam, and similarly at the bottom of the main
tower. The fastenings of the wires and braces should be made carefully,
and they should be examined thoroughly both before and after the device
is mounted in place. Grease the pivoted and other moving parts, and
start the device slowly, bringing the sails into the wind as required
for the desired speed.
Lawn Benches Made from Old Bedsteads
[Illustration: Painted Green, These Rebuilt Bedsteads Served as Lawn
Benches]
Old bedsteads were converted into serviceable lawn, or porch, benches,
as shown in the photograph reproduced, by the addition of a suitable
seat, properly supported. The transformation was a simple one. Only
the foot and headpieces of the bedsteads were used. The front legs and
other pieces were made from other wood. The front legs are of square
stock, about 2¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ in. The crosspieces, supporting the wide
board seats, are mortised into the legs and fastened with glue and
screws. The seat is fastened from the under side by cleats. The lumber
was carefully planed and sandpapered so that the benches presented a
smooth finish when painted green, to match other outdoor furniture.--F.
E. Tuck, Nevada City, Calif.
Repairing Wood-Wind Instruments
Wood-wind instruments sometimes “leak” at the joints or keys and make
playing of the instrument difficult. Many such instruments are made
in sections, with ends that telescope to form a tight fit. This fit
is maintained by the use of a cork band cemented around the tenon end
of the telescoping joint. The renewal of these cork joints, and the
addition of new pads on the keys, will make an old instrument nearly
as good as it was when new, so far as playing is concerned, provided
the work is correctly done and the wood of the sections themselves
has not cracked. Many musicians have spare time and can do this work
themselves. The outlay for materials for the job is from 75 cents to
$1.00. A small alcohol, or even a kerosene, lamp and an old knife, or
old file, are required.
[Illustration: The Cork is Fitted Carefully into Place, and Glued]
All traces of the old cork on the joint can be removed with sandpaper,
leaving it as shown at the left. The cork comes in strips of about the
proper thickness, and wide and long enough to allow for trimming. The
ends of the strip should be beveled to make a ¹⁄₄-in. lap joint.
A small quantity of the cement is heated over the lamp and six drops
poured on the joint; then with the end of the file, which should be
heated also, it is spread to give an even, thin coating. The beveled
ends of the strip are similarly treated. By working quickly and
carefully, the coating on the joint and strip are brought to a plastic
state by holding in the flame, and the strip is quickly laid in place.
Before the cement has time to harden, press the cork in, forming a
neat joint. Bind a rag around the cork, leaving it until the cement is
thoroughly set.
The corked joint will be too large to go into the joining section of
the instrument. File and sandpaper it to a twisting fit. Though the
cork should be truly cylindrical, it may be tapered a trifle smaller at
the forward end. A coating of tallow applied to the joint will make it
easy-fitting, but air-tight and moisture-proof.
The pads are disks of felt incased in thin sheepskin. After long usage,
they become too hard to make an air-tight fit. Repadding should,
therefore, be anticipated. Shellac will give good results in putting
on pads. It is heated until liquid and poured into the key recess.
The new pad is pressed into the liquid shellac, care being taken to
have it well centered. For different keys, it will be necessary to use
varying quantities of shellac to make the pad sit higher or lower, as
required.--Donald A. Hampson, Middletown, N. Y.
* * * * *
¶A simple method of bracing a screen door is to stretch a stout wire
diagonally across the lower portion of it.
Rustic Trellis to Shade Door or Window
[Illustration: Rustic Trellises are Easily Constructed and When Covered
with Vines Add to the Attractiveness of the Home]
Proper preparation in the early spring will make it possible for the
householder to shade doors and windows from the hot summer’s sun by
means of inexpensive rustic trellises that add not a little to the
beauty of the home. A suggestion for a trellis at a doorway and one for
a window are shown in the illustration. They are made of straight tree
trunks and small limbs, having the bark on them. The curved portions of
the window trellis may be made easily by using twigs that are somewhat
green. Morning-glories, or other suitable climbing plants, may be
trained over the trellises.--J. G. Allshouse, Avonmore, Pa.
Making Scale Enlargements with a Rubber Band
For reducing or enlarging maps, and similar drawings of irregular
design, the device shown in the illustration will replace the ordinary
instruments, and enable the draftsman to turn out a given amount of
work in much less time than required when proportional dividers are
used. The materials needed are an eraser, a rubber band, two pins,
two thumb tacks, and a few drops of rubber cement. From the eraser
two pieces are cut, as shown in the sketch, about ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ by 1¹⁄₄
in. Cut deep slits in each end of these pieces. Insert the end of the
rubber band, cut at the splice, in one of these slits and place a thumb
tack in the other. A pin is thrust through the eraser and trimmed
close, to prevent the thumb tack from tearing the eraser. Cement the
slits with rubber cement, and place the assembled device under a book
weight, until the cement has set.
[Illustration: This Simple Device Is Useful in Enlarging or Reducing
Drawings and Maps]
Assuming that a contour map is to be enlarged, the rectangular
divisions of the original map, ordinarily section lines or the
boundaries of quarter sections, are drawn on the larger sheet as a
base for the reproduction. Place the device on the original map, as
indicated, the edge of the rubber band touching a “horizontal” section
line between two “vertical” ones, the rubber band under slight tension.
On the black surface of the band, dot white points, with water color,
along the section line at which the contour lines intersect it. Also
place a dot at each end of the band to indicate the position of the two
“vertical” section lines between which the band is set.
Transfer the device to the same relative position on the enlargement,
stretching the rubber band. Make dots at each end, denoting the
“vertical” section lines, for the corresponding lines on the
enlargement. The series of intermediate points along the band will be
in the same relative position on the enlargement as they were on the
original. They can be connected on the enlargement with as accurate
a result as obtained by the use of proportional dividers, and more
rapidly.
After the points are indicated upon the enlargement, the reproducing
device is removed and the surface of the rubber band cleaned instantly
by touching it with a moist cloth. The exposed part of the rubber band
is a variable, and the device can be made with this dimension adapted
to the work. It is capable of enlarging or reducing at a ratio not
greater than six to one, above which the rubber band approaches its
elastic limit.--H. L. Wiley, Seattle, Wash.
Signal Telegraph with Green and Red Lights
[Illustration]
By arranging a circuit with batteries, lights, and keys, as shown in
the diagram, a signal telegraph may be made that will afford much
pleasure to boys and may be used for practical purposes. The keys A and
B are wired into the circuit with a battery C and a red and a green
incandescent lamp. A simple set of signals may be devised easily so
that messages may be sent in the code.--James R. Townsend, Itasca,
Texas.
A Circular Swing
BY DAVIS FOSS GETCHELL
While on the farm I constructed a circular swing which proved very
attractive to my boys and their friends. By its side, and suspended
from the same tree branch, was an ordinary swing. During the eight
weeks of our stay the latter was seldom in use. The circular swing was
a far greater favorite with all the young people, boys and girls alike.
Around a branch of a large elm and 18 or 20 ft. from the tree trunk
was looped a 10-ft. length of chain and to the hanging end of this was
made fast a 1-in. rope nearly 10 ft. longer than was needed to reach
the ground. Directly beneath the point where the chain went around the
limb, as determined by a plumb bob, was set a 6-in. piece of cedar post
3¹⁄₂ ft. into the ground. This was sawed off square 2¹⁄₂ ft. above the
ground. Into the top of this post was set a ¹⁄₂-in. rod, to serve as
a pivot for the swing. It was set in firmly about 6 in. and projected
about 3 in. from the top of the post.
[Illustration: The Circular Swing will be Found Very Safe and
Pleasurable, but, as is the Case of an Ordinary Swing, Anyone Careless
Enough to Get in the Way of It will Get Badly Bumped]
A straight-grained piece of pine board, 15 ft. long, 8 in. wide, and
1 in. thick, was procured and a hole bored in one end large enough to
make it turn freely on the pin in the upper end of the post. Two holes
were bored in the other end of the board large enough to admit the
rope. The first hole was 6 in. from the end, and the second hole, 3 ft.
The hanging end of the rope was passed down through one of these holes
and back up through the other and then made fast to itself about 3 ft.
above the board after the board had been adjusted so that it would
swing throughout its length at the height of the post, or 2¹⁄₂ ft. from
the ground. The swing was then complete except for a swivel, which was
put in the rope within easy reach of one standing on the board, so that
it could be oiled.
One good push would send the board with a boy on the end three or four
times about the 90-ft. circle. The little fellows would like to get
hold of the board in near the post and shove it around. Once started,
it could be kept going with very little effort.
In putting up such a swing, make sure to have the post set solidly
in the ground, as it has a tendency to work loose. Tie all the knots
tightly. Do not look upon the swivel as unnecessary. The first swing I
put up was without one, and the rope twisted off in a few days.
It is not necessary to climb a tree; just throw a stout cord over the
limb by means of a stone or nut tied to the end, then haul the rope
and chain up over the limb with the cord. Before the chain leaves the
ground loop the end of it and pass the cord through the loop. The
higher the limb from the ground the better the swing will work, but 25
ft. will be about right.
Hand-Operated Motorboat Whistle
[Illustration: Bellows Operated by Hand for Blowing a Whistle on a
Power Boat]
Anyone with a power boat can construct a blower for the whistle
very cheaply. The whistle is attached to a suitable length of pipe,
threaded on each end. The blower is made of two white-pine boards, 1
in. thick, cut as shown at A; a thin piece of leather is cut like the
pattern B, to form the bellows part, and after it is shaped, the edges
of the boards are glued and the leather placed in position, where it
is fastened with tacks driven in about 1 in. apart. The bellows are
fastened to the under side of a seat with screws, and a tension spring
is attached to the bottom of the bellows and the floor of the boat. A
cord is fastened to the lower board of the bellows and run up through
to the cabin roof over suitable pulleys to a handle within convenient
reach of the operator.--Contributed by John I. Somers, Pleasantville,
N. J.
Filling In Broken Places on Enamel
Ordinary putty will not do to fill in cracks or broken spots on an
enameled surface, such as a clockface. Fine sealing wax is much better,
as it hardens at once, takes color without absorbing the oil, and
does not shrink like putty. Use a wax of the proper color to match
the surface as closely as possible. Fit it in and smooth with a warm,
flexible piece of metal, such as a palette knife. Give it one or two
coats of thin color to exactly match the other surface, and varnish. If
the article has not a high polish, the gloss of the varnish can be cut
a little with pumice stone.
[Illustration: A Twisting Thriller Merry-Go-Round
BY R. E. EDWARDS]
“Step right up; three twisting thrillers for a penny--a tenth of a
dime!” was the familiar invitation which attracted customers to the
delights of a homemade merry-go-round of novel design. The patrons were
not disappointed, but came back for more. The power for the whirling
thriller is produced by the heavy, twisted rope, suspended from the
limb of a tree, or other suitable support. The rope is cranked up by
means of the notched disk A, grasped at the handle B, the car being
lifted off. The thriller is stopped when the brakeplate I rests on the
weighted box L.
[Illustration: The Supporting Ropes are Wound Up at the Disk A, the
Car is Hooked into Place, and the Passengers Take Their Seats for a
Thrilling Ride, Until the Brakeplate I Rests on the Box]
Manila rope, ³⁄₄ in. or more in diameter, is used for the support, and
is rigged with a spreader, about 2 ft. long, at the top, as shown. The
disk is built up of wood, as detailed, and notches, C, provided for the
ropes. The rope is wound up and the car is suspended from it by the
hook, which should be strong, and deep enough so that it cannot slip
out, as indicated at H.
The car is made of a section of 2 by 4-in stuff, D, 10 ft. long, to
which braces, E, of 1 by 4-in. stuff are fastened with nails or screws.
The upper ends of the pieces E are blocked up with the centerpiece F,
nailed securely, and the wire link G is fastened through the joint.
The seats J are suspended at the ends of the 2 by 4-in. bar, with their
inner ends lower, as shown, to give a better seating when the thriller
is in action. The seats are supported by rope or strap-iron brackets,
K, set 15 in. apart. The box should be high enough so that the seats do
not strike the ground.
Kinks for the Talking Machine
When short of fiber needles or when the jewel needle has broken, file
down the tooth of a bone comb to the required point, and it will serve
well. If the needle arm becomes loosened from the diaphragm, and no
wax is handy, a bit of soft chewing gum makes an excellent temporary
repair. Use a magnet to pick up steel needles from the receptacles on
the machine, to save time and avoid punctured fingers. If the machine
is too loud for the room, placing a piece of loose cotton in the tone
arm, directly behind the reproducer, is more effective than muffling
the sound at the horn end.--L. B. Robbins, Attleboro, Mass.
A Wire-Walking Toy
[Illustration: Adapted to Window Displays, This Amusing Toy Has an
Advertising Value]
A daring wire-walking performer who, unmindful of the fact that a
misstep may mean destruction, keeps on going, back and forth, so long
as the motor runs, or the crank is turned, is a toy that boys can make
easily. The wire is stretched, not across Broadway, but between two 1
by 1-in. standards, held upright by guy cords, or fixed to a baseboard.
They are fitted with forked tops, at A and B, and pulley wheels, C
and D. A wire, F, is fastened to two of the prongs, at E, and a black
thread, G, runs over the pulley wheels. A carriage, I, is formed from
a 12-in. length of stiff wire, and weighted, at L, to balance upon the
tight wire. The figure K is cut from stiff paper, and made to turn upon
the carriage upright J, and braced with thread, at H. Thus the figure
is always drawn forward, revolving on the support J at the end of each
trip. Power to turn the thread is transmitted from a hand crank or
motor, M, by means of the double pulley wheel at D.--Edward R. Smith,
Walla Walla, Washington.
Double Roofs Provide Ideal Shade for Poultry Coops
Having no native shade in our city chicken yard, we noticed one summer
that the hens, especially those in the low brooder coops, became droopy
and exhausted from the excessive heat. We studied the construction of
the U. S. Weather Bureau thermometer shelter, which usually stands out
in the sun, and is no larger than our brooder coops. It has a double
roof with free air-circulation space between the roofs, hence the
inclosed thermometers are exposed to a true-shade temperature. We then
placed an extra roof on each of the brooder coops, leaving a 6-in. open
air space between, the top roof being supported at the corners only.
The arrangement proved so effective that the hens sought the coops,
against the heat of unventilated inclosures on quiet, hot days.--J.
Cecil Alter, Cheyenne, Wyo.
An Illuminated Indicating Target Box
[Illustration: The Location of Hits is Recorded by a Beam of Light
Streaming through the Hole Shot in the Paper Target]
The joys of target practice are often hampered by the delays in the
settlement of hits. It takes time and is annoying to be constantly
advancing to the target to examine it. To do away with this, an
illuminated target was constructed that enables the shooter to locate
every hit without leaving his post. To make the device, a square
wooden box of convenient size is obtained. In one side of this, cut a
round hole as large as the largest ring on the targets used. The side
opposite this is fitted with a piece of sheet iron to stop the bullets.
Paint this iron and the interior white. Inside the box, arrange four
electric lights so their rays will be thrown on the hole, as shown.
Candles may be used, if necessary. The lamps must be out of range of
the bullets, that hit the target, and protected by an iron plate. The
targets, painted on thin paper, are fastened over the front of the
hole, and the lights are on, while shooting. Each shot punctures the
paper, and the light streaming through the hole will show the location
of the hit.--Thomas W. Benson, Philadelphia, Pa.
Kinks in Washing Photographic Negatives and Prints
Photographic defects, spots, stains, etc., are often due to inadequate
washing. In the common method of washing negatives or prints under
the tap, in a dish, the water is not changed quickly enough. If the
negatives are placed film downward and supported at the edges, the
washing is quicker and more thorough. Films as well as glass negatives
are in the same class in the matter of washing. Films should not stick
together, and the sharp edges must not be permitted to cause scratches.
Bird House Made of an Old Straw Hat
[Illustration]
A bird house of an old straw hat is a practical and easily contrived
affair. Cut a hole in the crown of the hat. Then nail the hat against a
board of proper size. To protect the hat against the rain, put a roof
over it, as shown. A perch is also provided. Such a bird house can be
hung against the trunk of a tree, or nailed against a wall. Leaving the
hat in its natural straw color, and painting the rest a dark brown,
produces a satisfactory effect.--C. L. Meller, Fargo, N. D.
Camp Shelter Affords Protection from Mosquitoes
[Illustration: Lithe Branches Cut in the Woods are Used for the
Framework, Which is Covered with Mosquito Netting]
When it is undesirable to stay in a camping tent, on warm nights or
during the day when a siesta is taken, a mosquito shelter can be made
of materials readily available at most camping places. The arrangement,
as shown, is made as follows: Procure a number of pliable switches,
about ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, and 8 or 10 ft. long, willow or similar
growths. Sharpen the butts, and force them into the ground in two
rows, 3¹⁄₂ ft. apart. Bend the tops together, and tie them in arches
of the same height, as indicated. Next, tie a ridge binder the entire
length. Cover the frame with mosquito netting, providing an entrance at
one end. The shelter shown is for one person, but may easily be made
larger. The fly, supported on a rope between posts or trees, affords
shade.--J. T. Trammell, Milwaukee, Wis.
* * * * *
¶The annoyance of a chair rocking on a bare floor, especially a
child’s rocking chair, may be overcome by tacking sections of garden
hose along the curved rockers. If properly done this also adds to the
comfort of the chair.
Rustic Well for a Bazaar or Fair Booth
A feature of a bazaar which attracted much attention was a rustic well
from which a pretty girl dipped cool drinks with the aid of an “old
oaken bucket.” The arrangement may also be used at an outdoor fair or
lawn party.
[Illustration: A Pretty Country Maid, Delicious Lemonade, a Peep into
the Well, and Music from a Phonograph Were Attractions at This Booth]
A corner of the room was marked off by a rail fence and turnstile. The
floor was covered with green cloth and green excelsior, for grass. The
well was constructed as shown in the detail sketch. Half of a barrel,
B, with the head removed, was inverted, and a mirror, C, was set in a
shallow pan of water on the floor. The pan was surrounded with pebbles,
D, and a framework, E, built over the barrel. The supply of lemonade
was kept cool in the tub G, behind the partition. When the bucket A was
lowered into the well, by means of the sweep, it was filled by pouring
the beverage in the trough F. The bucket was then raised and the drinks
served from it, a cocoanut-shell dipper being used.
So many persons became curious to learn how the well was constructed,
that an admission fee was charged to pass the turnstile, and the
reward was a peep at the reflection in the mirror at the bottom of the
well.--Susan E. W. Jocelyn, New Haven, Conn.
Novel Masks for Printing Pictures
In printing pictures, I have made use of various masks, and those
suited to the particular picture, for some special reason, have proved
especially popular. For instance, in making a picture for a contractor
and mason, a mask in the shape of a trowel was used; for a policeman, a
star; an automobile for the motorist. Sometimes the special interests
of persons in a picture, or the background, will suggest good outlines
for masks.--Russell Waldo, Indianapolis, Ind.
Sheet-Metal Stand for Flatiron
[Illustration]
Considerable energy is consumed in lifting a heavy flatiron to the
stand which protects the ironing board. The device shown in the
illustration was made to overcome this objection to most flatiron
stands and proved efficient as well as easy to make. The iron is shoved
onto the stand at one end, provided with an incline. The layout for the
sheet metal is shown in detail. The piece A is cut 4¹⁄₂ by 9 in., and
the stop B, the incline C, and the leg D, are cut as shown, and bent to
shape The stand is fastened near the end of the ironing board by means
of screws.--Ernest Ward, Detroit, Mich.
[Illustration]
Water-Coasting Toboggan and Slide
BY D. J. HOUGH
Coasting down an incline and being projected through the air to plunge
into the warm water of a summer lake, or other outdoor bathing spot,
has thrills and excitement that appeal to the person seeking a new
aquatic diversion. The illustration shows a slide, and the toboggan
sled for use on it, that were built by a group of young men at a summer
resort. While the slide shown is perhaps more extensive than most boys
would care to undertake, the principle involved may be adapted easily
to others one-fourth as long, less than 20 ft. The slide shown was
strongly built of 2 by 4-in. material for the framework, 2 by 6-in.
planks for the slide guides, and 2 by 12-in. planks for the bearing for
the roller. Lighter material may be used for the guides and the roller
bearing on a smaller slide, but the framework should be of 2 by 4-in.
stock.
[Illustration: Thrills and Excitement That will Satisfy the Swimming
Enthusiast and Provide a New Summer Diversion at the Lake or River
may be Had from the Water Toboggan and Slide. It may be Adapted to a
Smaller Size and Built by Boys. The Details of the Toboggan and the
Construction of the Slide are Shown in the Sketches Above]
The high end of the slide illustrated is about 7 ft. from the ground,
but a proportionately greater incline is provided because the beach
slopes gradually to the water’s edge. It is reached by a ladder fixed
to a tree, which acts as an end brace for the slide. If no such natural
support is available, the end of the slide must be strongly braced on
three sides, to insure safety. It is inadvisable to build the slide
unduly high to provide the necessary incline since this may result in
accidents. A location where the ground is suitable should be selected
rather than assume danger or risk.
The end of the slide nearest the water may be given a slight upward
turn, so that when the toboggan leaves it the rider is carried upward
before striking the water. The hold on the toboggan should be retained
when entering the water, as injury may result by failure to clear it in
the plunge. With experience a dive may be made as the toboggan leaves
the slide.
The construction of the slide is shown in detail in the lower sketch.
The framework of 2 by 4-in. material should be only slightly wider than
the guides, and the supports should be spread toward the ground to give
rigidity. The supports A should be nailed firmly, or bolted, to the
horizontal members B. If lighter stock is used, the pieces at B should
be nailed in pairs, one on each side of the uprights. The guides C and
D should be of smooth lumber, and the edges of these pieces, as well
as of the bearing plank E, should be rounded off to remove splinters.
The joints in the sections of the guides should be made carefully and
placed over the framework supports. They should be reinforced from the
lower side by plates of wood.
The bearing plank E is of 2-in. stock and 12 in. wide. It may be
made of lighter material in a smaller slide. The joints in it should
likewise be made carefully, to insure smooth riding over them. They
should be set directly over the framework supports, but not on those
over which joints have been made in the guides. The plank forming the
bearing for the roller should not extend to the end of the slide at
the lower end, but should be set back about 18 in. This permits the
toboggan to slide off smoothly rather than to spring directly into the
air from the bearing on the rollers. The bearing plank may be nailed
into place, but care must be taken to set all nails below the surface.
A better construction is to use screws or bolts. Bore holes for them
through the plank, countersinking their heads.
The toboggan, as shown in the detail sketches, is built strongly,
and is to be fitted over the 12-in. bearing plank, allowing ¹⁄₄-in.
play on each side. The sides are of 1¹⁄₄-in. stock and high enough to
accommodate the rollers, which should be about 3 in. in diameter. The
dimensions of 15 in. in width and 30 in. in length, on the top surface,
are suggestive only, and will vary with the materials used. The
toboggan will not stand the necessarily hard wear unless good-quality
oak, or other hard wood, is used. The top and foot brace should be
fixed strongly with screws, their heads countersunk.
The rollers are fixed in the sides by means of screws, or a bolt may be
set through the length of the roller. In either case the bearing should
be in holes bored through the sidepieces. Washers should be fitted at
the sides of the bearings, and the latter must be kept greased. All the
edges and corners of the toboggan should be rounded off so that there
is little possibility of injury from slivers or contact with the edges.
Tile Trap for Rabbits
[Illustration: By Closing the Smaller Opening, the Rabbit may be
Trapped and Removed at the Cover]
Rabbits may be trapped in order to rid grounds of them, or for food
purposes, by the use of the tile trap shown in the illustration. A tee,
having a smaller opening of 6 in., is set in the ground with the large
end projecting. Rocks are placed around it and it is provided with a
cover. Several extensions are attached to the 6-in. opening and the end
permitted to project slightly from the ground. Rocks are also placed
about this opening. The rabbit enters the trap at the small opening and
is free to come and go from the burrow. By closing the small opening,
the quarry may be taken out at the large opening.
* * * * *
¶Vaseline is a good cleaner for commutators while machines are in
operation and under load.
[Illustration]
A Woodsman’s Log Raft
BY A. M. PARKER
Making a raft for crossing a stream, or other small body of water,
is often a diversion for campers, who have the usual supply of camp
tools and materials. The woodsman is sometimes confronted with a
different situation: He has only a hand ax as his tool equipment, and
to construct a fairly safe raft of crude materials becomes necessary
in order to pursue his course. Logs are readily available, and he may
be fortunate enough to find willow withes, various stringy kinds of
bark, or even coarse seaweed. If these are not available, the practical
woodsman, particularly of the northern regions, builds a raft of logs,
pinned together firmly with poles and pointed wooden spikes, cut on
the spot. The method, as shown in the illustration, is simple and
interesting. It may be of service in the woods even when other methods
of binding the logs into a raft are possible, and as a practical test
of woodcraft for the amateur or boy camper it is of interest. The
sketch shows the completed raft, bound together by wooden pins notched
into poles, and the inset details show the manner in which the poles
are clamped by the crossed pins.
[Illustration: The Inventive Woodsman Builds His Log Raft of Simple
Materials Gathered at the River Bank; the Logs and Poles are Notched
Together Firmly and Held with Wooden Pins]
This method of construction may be applied to a variety of rafts, for
carrying small or large loads. In selecting the material for the raft
several points must be considered. Dry logs are preferable to wet or
green ones, and if the latter are used, a relatively larger raft will
be needed to carry a certain load. For one passenger, three logs, 9
to 12 in. in diameter, 12 to 16 ft. long, and spaced to a width of 5
ft., will provide a stable raft. Poles may be laid across it to give
sufficient footing. For heavier loads the logs should be about the same
length and diameter, but spaced closer together, and laid to form a
raft of considerable width and of greater buoyancy.
Select a shore, sloping gently into the water, if possible, and cut
the logs and poles as near this place as is convenient. Cut the logs
and roll, them to the bank, alternating the butts, if there is any
considerable difference in the diameter of the ends. Cut a supply of
poles of about 3-in. diameter, and of the length necessary to reach
across the proposed raft. Then cut a number of pins of hard wood, 1 ft.
long, and sharpened on one end, as shown in the detailed sketch.
Roll the first log--one of the largest--into the water until it is
nearly floating. If it is bowed or crooked, place the “humped” side
toward the outer edge of the raft. Chop notches, 2 in. deep, in the top
of the log about 1¹⁄₂ ft. from the ends, and squarely across. Place a
pole in the notch, with its end projecting slightly beyond the log,
and cut a double notch in the upper edge of the pole, as shown in the
detail sketches, so that when the pins are driven into the log, they
will rest diagonally in the notches cut into the poles. Make rifts in
the log with the ax, cutting as though to split off a slab of bark and
wood, rather than toward the center of the log, and drive two of the
pins into place. Properly done, this will make a remarkably strong
joint. Fasten a second pole at the other end of the log, and prop up
both poles so as to permit the next log to be rolled into the water,
under the poles.
Notch the second log before slipping it finally into place. Alternate
ends only, of the inner logs, need be fastened, and if time is
important, some of the logs may be left unfastened, provided they are
held tightly between the logs that are pinned. Shove the raft out into
the water as each log is added. If there is a strong current it is
desirable to guy the raft with a pole to the bank, downstream. The last
log, which should also be a large one, is then floated down and pinned
at both ends.
The raft may then be floated, and is ready to be covered with light
poles or brush, to provide a dry footing and a place for the dunnage.
The dunnage is placed near the forward end of the raft, and the person
controlling it sculls with a pole at the rear.
Curved Printing Surface for Sharp Focus in Bromide Enlargements
Practically all of my negatives are of post-card size, and, in
making bromide enlargements, I experienced difficulty in getting
a satisfactory focus on 6 by 10-in. or 8 by 12-in. prints. When
the center of the picture was in focus the outer portions were
usually blurred, and vice versa. Compromising between the two gave
unsatisfactory results. By providing a curved surface, on which the
bromide paper is mounted, results were obtained that are satisfactory
except for architectural subjects. A wooden box was made as long as the
desired print and 1 in. wider. The height may be made as is convenient,
but a height of about 2 in. is satisfactory. A partition was fitted
into the box, dividing its length into two compartments. The upper
edges of the center partition and the ends of the box were cut in the
shape of an arc, the curve being determined by the distance from the
lens to the easel when the center of the picture is in focus. The
bromide paper is fitted to the curves on the box. The device is fitted
to the easel by means of two strips fixed to the bottom of the box,
and extending beyond its ends. The curved surface may be covered with
cardboard to give a better backing for the bromide paper, which is held
in place by pins or small tacks. Where only a small portion of the
negative is to be enlarged, this difficulty will not present itself,
the flat surface being satisfactory.--Victor Woodland, Denver, Colo.
Playing Talking-Machine Records with the Finger Nail
[Illustration: Talking-Machine Records may be Played with the Finger
Nail after a Little Practice]
Talking-machine records may be played with the finger nail, and a
person skilled in the process can afford a party of spectators much
amusement, creating no little surprise. The record is placed over a
penholder, or pencil, and supported by the left hand as shown in the
sketch. It is revolved by the fingers of the left hand, and the nail of
the second finger of the right hand is applied to the record. Practice
is required to obtain satisfactory results and an old record should be
used.--George S. Nissen, Chicago, Ill.
* * * * *
¶Finely powdered graphite dusted on the parts of a motorcycle clutch
when repacking it after cleaning will act as an excellent lubricant.
Safety Chopping Block
[Illustration: This Chopping Block Makes for Safety in That Pieces are
Thrown Away from the Worker]
Chopping of pieces of wood, which must be broken into short lengths,
is often dangerous. The chopping block shown in the illustration was
designed to overcome this element of danger and it may be used for
chopping small kindling wood as well as for breaking up heavier pieces.
When the blow is struck on the wood to be broken the pieces are thrown
away from the person chopping. The sketch shows the device in use for
the chopping of short pieces of wood, and the heavy portion may be used
as a seat. The smaller sketch shows how the block is built up of 2-in.
planks, bolted together--A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Canada.
Repairing a Broken Reed Handle
A strong repair for a broken reed handle, like those on market baskets,
handbags, or workbaskets, may be made by joining the broken parts with
a ferrule of tinned sheet metal, brads or wire being used to prevent
the ends from working loose. After the metal fitting has been made,
the handle is rewound with the ends of the material unwound from it,
or if desirable, the entire handle may be re-covered with material of
the original kind or other suitable substitute.--R. E. Brown, Portland,
Ore.
Duck Decoys Mounted on Folding Frame
[Illustration: Duck Decoys Mounted on a Folding Frame may be Made by
the Hunter]
The duck hunter who wishes to economize by making some of his equipment
will be interested in the folding frame for duck decoys, shown in the
illustration. It is made of two strips, ³⁄₄ in. by 2 in. by 3 ft. 6
in., of soft wood, and fitted with a bolt at the middle, so that it
may be folded, for convenience in carrying. The decoys are cut from a
sheet of tinned metal, and are painted to resemble the game.--Carl A.
Haberlein, McPherson, Kan.
Onlaying Script on a Trophy Cup
[Illustration: Copper or Other Metal may be Deposited on the Surface of
the Cup, Making an Effective Inscription]
A novel method of inscribing names or other indications on trophy cups
or medallions is to onlay copper, or other contrasting metal, upon the
surface by the process illustrated. Beeswax, or paraffin, is fixed to
the side of the cup and formed into a dish shape, the surface on which
the onlaying is to be done being covered with only a thin layer of the
wax. With a needle or other suitable instrument, scratch the markings
desired through the thin layer of wax to the surface of the cup. Pour
copper sulphate into the wax cavity if the onlay is to be of copper,
and suspend a small piece of pure copper in the liquid, connected with
the positive pole of a storage battery, or other similar electrical
source. Attach a wire from the negative pole of the battery to the cup.
The copper will be deposited on the surface of the cup where the thin
layer of wax has been scratched off, exposing the metal. The thickness
of the deposit will depend on the length of time that the current is
permitted to flow. Ten hours of action will permit the depositing of a
satisfactory onlay.--M. H. Edwards.
Economy in Motorcycle Tires
Caution in the use of motorcycle tires with a minimum of abuse will
result in a considerable tire saving. Tremendous wear on a single spot
results when the power is thrown in so suddenly that the driving wheel
makes several revolutions before gripping the ground. The proper air
pressure must be maintained in the tires in order to obtain good wear.
Guessing is a poor method of determining the air pressure and the exact
condition should be noted from time to time with a gauge. Ordinarily, a
pressure of 45 to 50 lb should be maintained in the rear tire and about
20 per cent less in the front tire, in the case of 3-in. tires. Rim
cutting from running motorcycle tires underinflated is the commonest
abuse. Dents in the edge of the rims cause undue wear on the tire,
the fabric being worn through by the constant rubbing. Bent rims are
often caused by insufficient air pressure in tires, the liability to
injury being increased when crossing tracks or bumps with an improperly
inflated tire.
[Illustration]
A Knock-Down Tennis-Court Backstop
BY EDWARD R. SMITH
Severe weather soon damages a tennis-court backstop that is built
on posts set in the ground, and permitted to remain in place during
the winter. The backstop shown in the illustration was designed to
overcome this objection, and proved efficient on this score, as well
as economical to build and maintain. Instead of setting the supports
in the ground, they are set on the ground, and guyed by a system of
wire braces. The wire netting is also held taut by wire braces, and
the entire rigging is quickly taken down for storage, and easily set
up when needed again. The lower edge of the wire is held down by hooks
pinned to the ground with tent stakes, making it convenient to unhook
the netting when the grass is to be cut around the backstop. The towers
are 50 ft. apart, about 14 ft. high, and built up of 4 by 4-in. and 2
by 4-in. pieces of sound yellow-pine timber.
[Illustration: The Backstop is Taken Down between Seasons, and can be
Raised Quickly by Means of the Supporting Cables]
Foundations of brick, anchored into the ground, were made for the
towers. End braces of heavy wire, fastened to the top, and guyed to
the sunken anchors at the ground, support the towers against the
weight of the netting and wire rigging. This is convenient in setting
up the arrangement, as a ladder can be leaned against the end of the
tower, guyed securely. To withstand side motion at the top edge of
the netting, the supporting wires are carried on crossarms of 1 by
1-in. pieces of wood, 2 ft. long. This rigging is suspended between
the towers and wired to the netting. When this is drawn up tightly,
the netting is fairly taut. Additional supporting wires, with vertical
leaders to the netting, are used to draw up the entire length of the
netting tautly, as desired.
The netting extends under the towers, and is supported there by wires.
As the netting extends nearly to the end guy wires, players cannot be
harmed easily by running into the wires particularly if a white flag is
attached to the guy wires, about 6 ft. from the ground. Number 20 gauge
wire was used for the supporting cables, and No. 9 for the end braces
extending to the anchored fastenings.
A Folding Ground Seat with Back Rest
[Illustration: This Seat Is Useful Out of Doors and Also for Special
Purposes Indoors]
Those who enjoy sitting or lying upon the grass while reading will
find the device shown in the illustration convenient and comfortable.
With this, one may enjoy the coolness of the ground without harm to
the person or clothing. The adjustable back rest supports the body
in various positions. The device is light, compact, and readily
transported. It is useful also in the home and elsewhere. By placing it
across the bed, or on a trunk, a good substitute for an extra chair is
provided. The seat proper may be folded under and the back rest used as
a prop for reading in bed.
Oak is a suitable wood, and other common woods may be used. First
construct, according to the dimensions given, three rectangular
frames, with mortise-and-tenon joints. Cover the seat and back frames
with heavy duck, turning it in ¹⁄₂ in. at the edges. The base is an
open frame, provided with adjusting notches, spaced 2 in apart. Next
make the adjusting frame, as detailed. Hinge the back and the seat
to the base, and fasten the adjusting frame to the back with screws,
permitting it to fold, as shown.--T. H. Linthicum, Annapolis, Md.
Bicycle Carried on Automobile as Tender
Steam yachts often carry a motorboat tender, and an automobile may
carry a bicycle for emergencies. An autoist whose duties require him to
travel through rural districts, had numerous unhappy experiences with a
stalled car until he hit upon this scheme. The bicycle is strapped on
the running board of the car, its handlebars turned flat against the
side, and its wheels in tire sockets in the running board. A tank in
the bicycle frame holds several gallons, and if the owner runs out of
gasoline, he uses the tender to get a supply, filling the auto tank by
siphoning the gasoline through a flexible tube.--John Miller Bonbright,
Philadelphia, Pa.
Heater Keeps Developer at Proper Temperature
[Illustration]
Having had trouble with developer cooling down and failing to work
properly, while developing in the dark room, I constructed the
apparatus shown. A small light-tight box was made slightly larger than
the tray, with a removable top having an opening to hold the tray. An
electric-light socket was fastened inside at one end of the box and a
lamp fitted to it. A wire was attached across the middle of the lower
side of the box, so that the latter and the tray could be rocked.
The box was lined with black paper and varnished black. The edges of
the opening in the top were fringed with felt to guard against light
leakage. A thermometer is used to determine the temperature. When
the developer cools, turn on the light until it reaches the required
temperature.--John Hoeck, Alameda, California.
[Illustration]
Steam-Propelled Motorcycle Made by Mechanic
BY L. L. VOELEHERT
As an example of the application of steam power to the propulsion of
a vehicle, the motorcycle shown in the illustration is interesting.
While it does not embody the many refinements of gasoline motorcycles
manufactured commercially, and makes no pretense of competing with
them, the machine has a striking individuality. It was made by a
mechanic in his spare time, with only the facilities of a small machine
shop. Tests and hard usage over typical roads have shown it to be easy
riding, partly by reason of its weight, and to give very steady power.
The machine can be reversed quickly and no clutch is used. It has a
wheel base of 75 in., and weighs about 350 pounds.
The upper portions of the frame are made of 1-in. steel tubing,
strongly riveted at the fork and other joints. The lower section, from
the fork to the rear axle, is made of a double bar of 1¹⁄₂ by ¹⁄₂-in.
steel, spread and braced to carry the tank, engine, and boiler. The
fork is forged from strips of steel, and fitted to standard motorcycle
wheels. The handlebars, seat, transmission chains and gears, as well as
other fittings, are of the ordinary motorcycle type. The seat may be
moved and clamped at various places along the upper bar of the frame,
and an extra seat may be installed, or a bundle carrier may be fitted
behind the driver.
Gasoline, with which to heat water for the generation of steam, is
carried in the long round tank, hung below the frame at the top. The
water supply is contained in the square flat tank under the lower part
of the frame. The engine is supported on the frame immediately above
the water tank, and drives a shaft, which is geared to the rear wheel
by a chain and sprocket.
[Illustration: This Motorcycle is Propelled by a Steam Plant and was
Built in a Small Shop by a Mechanic in His Spare Time]
The round boiler, with gasoline burners beneath it, is carried on the
lower part of the frame, which is spread, immediately behind the front
wheel. The boiler is 16 in. in diameter and 12 in. high. It is fitted
with valves, whistle, water gauge, and the usual fittings of a boiler.
The engine is of the horizontal type, and the working parts are largely
inclosed, so as to protect them from dust and to avoid possible danger
to the operator.
Sideboard Converted into Kitchenette
Living in rooms, in which it was necessary to use the small living
room as a kitchen and dining room as well, the storage of the cooking
equipment became a problem. It was unsightly in the room when not in
use, and there was no convenient place in which to store it out of
sight. The kitchenette, shown in the sketch, was made from an old
sideboard, and served the purpose admirably, being useful also for
other needs.
[Illustration: An Old Sideboard was Converted into a Useful
Kitchenette, Which Economises Space]
The top was removed and hinged to one end, the supports being
removable, for storing them in the cabinet. The hinged top provided a
support for the dishes while cooking. The partition between the top
drawers was removed and the fronts of the drawers fastened in place
with screws. The space thus made available was lined with asbestos, and
a small gas stove was fitted into it. The gas line was connected to the
stove and two pieces of asbestos sheeting were hinged to fold under the
cover and to be leaned against the wall as a protection while cooking.
The top could be hinged at the back to protect the wall, or cut in two
and the parts hinged one at each end of the cabinet. The lower drawers
of the kitchenette were fitted to hold the cooking materials and
equipment.
When the kitchenette is closed it is useful as a stand or table,
for dining, or for other purposes, including ironing. In the latter
operation, it is often desirable to have the hinged top open to give
free access around the end of the top.--J. S. Hagans, Toledo, Ohio.
Bee Feeder for Winter Use
The use of a feeder, like that shown in the sketch, makes the feeding
of bees in winter convenient. Sirup is fed to the bees from inverted
glass jars, the openings of which are covered with muslin, the jars
being incased in a packing of chaff in a wooden covering. The wooden
box is made to fit over the hive, as shown in the sketch, and a 2-in.
strip is nailed over the joint.
[Illustration: Sirup is Fed to the Bees in Winter and Protected from
the Cold by the Feeding Jars Inclosed in the Box]
The device is made as follows: Use wood smoothed on both sides; pine
basswood, or other soft wood being satisfactory. Make two pieces, ⁷⁄₈
in. thick, and the same size as the top of the hive. Into one of these
cut two round holes, as shown, to fit the necks of the jars. Make
two pieces, 6³⁄₄ in. wide, for the sides, and two for the ends, the
length being suited to the hive, the dimensions given in the sketch
being suggestive only. Make four strips, 2 in. wide, and long enough
to fit the four sides of the box. Nail the pieces of the box together,
as shown, nailing the sides over the end pieces, and the top over the
frame of sides and ends. Pack chaff into the box, and, after filling
the jars with sirup and covering their openings with muslin, pack the
jars into the box so that their openings will be level with the bottom
through which the holes have been cut. Fasten the board, with holes for
the jars, into place with screws, so that it may be removed when it is
desired to remove the jars for refilling. Nail the 2-in. strips around
the lower edge of the box so as to cover the joint between the box and
the hive. The feeder is then fitted into place, the bees feeding from
the surface of the muslin. The chaff prevents the sirup from congealing
in cold weather and so it is always available for the bees. The use of
this simple device will prove economical and practical in keeping bees
over the winter, assuring them a good food supply, with little effort
on the part of the keeper.--Gus Hansen, Peachland, B. C., Can.
Kink for Driving Nails
Nails, or spikes, may be driven into hard wood without causing them to
buckle by applying a coating of vaseline, beeswax, and rosin, mixed in
equal portions. A convenient method of applying the mixture is to bore
a hole in the end of the hammer handle and fill it with the material.
The nails may be pressed into the hole to coat them.--O. Root, Lorain,
Ohio.
Porch Gate Folds into Hollow Pillar
The porch is a convenient play spot for the children, but must be
properly safeguarded to prevent not uncommon accidents and injury
by falls. The folding gate shown in the sketch provides substantial
barrier to the head of the stairs, and may be quickly folded out of the
way. It is hardly noticeable when set in the side of the pillar, and
does not mar the finish or general effect of the latter.
[Illustration: The Gate is Folded When Not in Use and is Concealed in
the Hollow Porch Pillar]
The gate is made of strips of band iron, although wood may be used.
The strips are fastened with bolts, or rivets, and the forward end is
fitted to the section of the pillar, which forms the cover for the
recess in which the gate is housed. The cover is hooked to the opposite
pillar when the gate is opened. Any suitable height may be chosen for
the gate, but, for the purpose suggested, 24 to 30 in. is satisfactory.
The device may be adapted to a variety of other uses by providing a box
or chamber for the collapsed gate, when no hollow recess is otherwise
available.
A Homemade Book Holder
[Illustration: Nails Driven in a Board and Bent in the Shape of Screw
Hooks to Hold a Book]
A piece of board and four finishing nails furnished me with the
necessary materials to construct a book-holding apparatus when in a
hurry. Each nail, being driven through the board, could be turned to
release, and pulled out far enough to accommodate a thicker book. In
fact the device was adjustable.
The Enchanted Card Frame
A mystifying card trick, in which the performer makes use of the
enchanted card frame shown in detail in the illustration, is as
follows: A pack of playing cards is given to one of the spectators, who
selects a card, noting the number and suit. The card is then placed in
an envelope and burned by the spectator. The performer takes the ashes
and loads them into a pistol, which he aims at a small frame, shown as
empty, and set upon a table a few feet distant. The frame is covered
with a handkerchief, and the pistol is fired at the frame. On removing
the handkerchief the selected and destroyed card appears in the frame,
from which it is taken at the back.
[Illustration: FIG. 3
FIG. 2
FIG. 1
FIG. 4
FIG. 5
A Pocket is Cut into the Frame, and Filled with Black Sand, Obscuring
the Card When the Frame is Inverted]
The trick is performed as follows: A forced deck is prepared having 24
like cards, and the backs of the cards are held to the spectators when
a card is selected. The frame is made of a molding 2 in. wide, mitered
at the corners, and of the size indicated, the opening being 6³⁄₈ by
7¹⁄₂ in. The general views of the frame in normal position and inverted
are shown in Figs. 1 and 5. A pocket is cut in the lower edge of the
frame at the back, as shown in detail in Fig. 2. A pane of glass is
fitted into the frame, and on the three edges other than the one having
a pocket, strips of cardboard, ¹⁄₈ in. thick, are glued, as a bearing
for a second piece of glass, as shown in Fig. 4. The back of the frame
is fitted with a cover of thin wood, and a hinged door is arranged in
the center of the back, as shown in Fig. 3.
A mat of black cardboard is fitted into the frame to form a background
behind the card, Fig. 1. The pocket at the bottom is filled with black
sand--that used by sign painters is satisfactory--and the frame is
ready to receive the card for the performance of the trick. One of
the cards from the forced deck is placed in the frame. By inverting
the latter the sand is caused to run between the glass partitions,
concealing the card on the black mat behind it. In this condition
it is exhibited to the spectators and then placed upon the table. A
handkerchief is thrown over it. The pistol is one of the toy variety
and a cap is fired in it. In picking up the frame the performer turns
it over, while removing the handkerchief, so that the black sand runs
back into the pocket in the frame.--Harry Marcelle, Honolulu, H. I.
[Illustration]
Portable Fence for Baby’s Play Area
BY L. N. ROBINSON
A child in the “toddler” stage should be provided with a safe place
in which to play without disturbing the household routine of the busy
mother too frequently. The folding wood-and-wire fence shown in the
illustration meets this need in a practical and inexpensive manner. It
may be used in the home or out of doors, the fence being especially
useful in the latter case, since it protects the child, and likewise
the lawn flowers, which a youngster, unguarded, may injure. The fence
is 25 to 32 in. high, strong enough to support a grown person sitting
on the edge of it, and incloses an area of about 4 by 6 ft. This is
ample for the child, and the folded fence is thus not too bulky to
be transported easily. The materials cost less than $3.50, including
hardware for the making of the fence, as shown in the working drawings.
The wood used for the main frames is ¹⁄₂ by 2 in., and they are covered
with wire mesh, the edges of which are nailed under strips, on the
outer side of the frames. Care should be taken to insure that none
of the wire strands is exposed, thus endangering the child, or the
clothes of passers-by. The frames are hinged together, as shown in
the plan, and fold into compact form. Two long and four short frames
are required. Cut the top and bottom rails of the long frames 6 ft.
in length, and those of the shorter frames and the stiles 25 in. The
corner joints are cross-lapped by cutting away one-half the thickness
of each strip, as shown at A. The joints at the top and bottom of the
center stile, or vertical piece, are made as shown at B, and the joints
at the crossing of the center stiles and the cross braces, as at C.
The braces only are notched to fit the stile. Each of the joints is
fastened with flat-head screws, countersunk. The ends of the braces
are cut to fit flush into the corners of the frames, and are nailed in
place. This provides a flat nailing surface for the wire mesh and the
strips that cover its edges.
[Illustration: A Safe Play Space Either Indoors or Outdoors is Provided
for the Child, and the Fence may be Moved Easily. The Construction Is
Light yet Stable, and can be Carried Out without Difficulty by the Home
Woodworker]
Before putting on the wire mesh, all the exposed corners should be
“broken” slightly with sandpaper, the wood wiped smooth, and finished
with a coat of shellac. The wood may, of course, be left unfinished.
In fixing the 1-in. wire mesh in place, fasten one end of the piece
squarely at the end of the frame, nailing it with staples. Place a
strip of wood under each end of the frame and bear down on the middle
of the frame, or weight it, to produce a bowed effect. Then nail the
other end of the wire securely; on removing the strips, the wire will
be drawn taut. Tack the edges down, and repeat this process on the
other frames. Next nail the covering strips on the front faces of the
frames, mitering them at the corners, as shown at A.
[Illustration: Join the Pieces with Well-Made Lap Joints, and Hinge the
Frames as Indicated]
The frames are then joined by means of hinges, as shown in the plan
at A. Care should be taken that they are set so that the corners of
the fence meet squarely and evenly when it is opened. Metal drawbolts
should be fastened horizontally, one on the top of each folding joint
between the end sections. These will prevent the child from folding the
ends in, and possibly injuring its fingers. The completed fence is then
given a final coat of shellac or varnish, the galvanized wire being
left unfinished.
The materials required for the fence are as follows, the wood being
listed in lineal feet, and smoothed on four sides to the dimensions
indicated:
155 ft. ¹⁄₂ by 2-in. clear pine
50 ft. ¹⁄₄ by 1-in. clear pine
22 lineal ft. 1-in. mesh, 2-ft. wide wire fencing.
6 pairs 1¹⁄₂ in. iron plain butt hinges, with screws.
2 steel drawbolts, with screws.
¹⁄₂ pt. white shellac.
Water Rheostat for Small Electrical Devices
[Illustration]
The rheostat shown in the illustration can be made quickly and at small
expense. The base consists of a piece of wood, ¹⁄₂ by 2 by 12 in. A
glass tube, 1 in. in diameter and 6 in. long, is fastened to this with
strips of sheet metal. A large brass tack is driven into a cork, and
the cork is inserted in the lower end of the tube. A wire runs from the
brass tack to the binding post A. The lower part of the tube should
be paraffined to make it water-tight. A brass or copper rod is placed
through the binding posts B and C. The resistance can be changed by
sliding the rod up or down. The tube is nearly filled with water having
a small quantity of salt dissolved in it. The amount will depend upon
the current to be reduced. The rheostat should be fastened to a wall,
or other support, and may be used to regulate the speed of small motors
and other electrical devices.--R. R. Wayt, Pittsburgh, Pa.
White Blotting Paper Improves Light Reflectors
In the lecture and classrooms of a large university it was found
that reflections of the electric-light bulbs in the glazed porcelain
reflectors were extremely annoying to the eyes of students, and
concentration of sight on the blackboard was difficult. A number
of tests were made, and the following method proved successful,
eliminating the glare and the reflections. Large sheets of white
blotting paper were cut to fit the inside of the reflectors, and
then glued to their surface. The soft, somewhat rough surface of the
blotting paper diffused the light, so that the glare was overcome.--C.
M. Hall, St. Louis, Mo.
Two Simple Vises for the Home Workbench
Boys, and other amateurs, sometimes have need of a vise when a
commercial article or one of standard type cannot be had readily. The
devices shown in the illustration will give good service and can be
made of material easily obtained. The vise shown in Fig. 1 was made of
old machine parts, consisting of a bolt and a wing nut. The bolt A was
flattened at one end and bent at a right angle. A hole to fit it was
bored through the top of the bench B, and the washer C and wing nut D
were put in place. The piece to be gripped is clamped under the end A.
This device should be fitted near the end and front edge of the bench.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
These Vises may be Made Easily of Materials Available in Most Workshops]
The vise shown in Fig. 2 grips the block E in the same manner as the
first vise. The jaw F is bolted to a vertical piece, G, which is fitted
into a mortise cut through the bench top. The wedge H passes through a
mortise in the piece G and clamps against the lower side of the bench
top.--James E. Noble, Toronto, Can.
Drinking-Glass Holders Easily Made
[Illustration: These Homemade Holders for Glasses Are Useful and
Quickly Constructed]
Several styles of holders for a drinking glass are suggested in the
illustration. They may be made of durable materials easily obtained in
the home workshop. The first is made by twisting a galvanized-iron or
brass wire, as shown, with an eye and a loop for fastening it to the
wall. A cork is fixed to the upper end, on which to rest the glass. The
lower sketch shows a holder of the cup type made by riveting a metal
cup to a diamond-shaped plate, the latter being fastened to the wall.
The holder at the right is made from a piece of sheet metal cut to the
shape indicated below. It is bent to the shape shown, and the lower end
of the narrow strip is curved upward to provide a rest for the edge of
the glass. The upper portion of the holder should be large enough so
that the glass may be raised sufficiently to fit into the rest. The
holes are provided for a fastening.--Frank L. Matter, Portland, Ore.
Emery Needle Cushion on Sewing Machine
A convenient emery pad and needle cushion may be made by inclosing
the powder in a long sack, about 1 in. in diameter, and sewing it in
place around the arm of the machine. It will thus be close at hand and
needles and pins may be stuck in the cushion, free from rust, and will
not be in the way.
[Illustration: A Compensated Aerial Cableway
_by_ Edward R. Smith]
The possibilities for practical use as well as novelty for play and
experimental purposes make the compensated aerial cableway, shown in
the illustrations, not only interesting but also worthy of study. The
arrangement assembled in its simplest form with two towers, in the
page plate, shows how the weight of the car is compensated, so that
a fairly level course on the track cable is provided. The various
positions of the load and cables, showing the application of the
compensating principle, are indicated in Figs. 1 to 5, and a multiple
system is shown in Fig. 6. The details of the constructional parts
are also shown. The car may be driven by wind power, as shown in Fig.
7, or by a motor, as in Fig. 8, in addition to the simple application
of hand power suggested in the page plate. Devices for automatically
reversing the course of the cars both for the sail rigging and with
the use of electrical power, are shown in Figs. 7 and 8. By their use
it is unnecessary to have an operator at each end of the cableway.
The constructional features were worked out first by experiments on
models in a shop, and then applied to a large rigging spanning over
100 ft. between the A-frames. The sketch in the page plate was made
from photographs of this construction. Application of the compensating
principle to carrying and transportation problems affords opportunity
for interesting engineering, in spanning streams, cañons, or gulleys.
In most types of cableways a considerable sag is allowed in the cable
supporting the car in addition to that caused by its own weight. Even
in systems of practically constant cable tension, in which the wire is
stretched by enormous weights, the loaded car causes a sag in the track
cable, and ascends and descends an incline when approaching and leaving
a tower. The aim in the compensated cableway is to overcome this sag as
much as possible, and to offer a minimum of resistance to the car in
its course.
The simple form of compensated cableway shown in the page plate is
made by setting up two A-frames, with wire braces supporting them, and
mounting the track and traction cables upon them. A light, flexible
compensating cable extends from one tower to the other and is fitted
to grooved pulley wheels at the tops of the towers, as shown in the
detail at the right. The ends of the cable are fixed to wire hooks,
from which the track cable is suspended. The latter is anchored at the
ends of the wire braces supporting the A-frames. In order to understand
the operation of the system it is desirable that the course of a load
be traced in its various stages, as indicated in the diagrams, Figs. 1
to 5. For diagrammatic purposes the load is shown passing from the west
slope to the east. As the load passes under the first A-frame, as in
Fig. 2, the track cable is drawn down at that point; the corresponding
end of the compensating cable is also drawn down, raising the opposite
end of the track cable, and taking out most of the sag in the center
portion of the track cable. As the load passes to the center position,
as shown in Fig. 3, the track cable resumes a more nearly horizontal
position. When the second A-frame is reached the load draws the
corresponding end of the compensating cable down with the track cable,
Fig. 4, and the latter assumes its normal position as the load reaches
the end of the course. It is evident from the diagrams that the course
of the load is more nearly level than it would be if the sagging of the
track cable were not counteracted.
For use with a multiple-frame system, the cables are arranged in units
between supports, as shown in Fig. 6. The compensating action is
similar, the tendency being to level the entire course of the load. The
weight of the car and load only is compensated, and since the weight
of the cable will cause a sag, the course cannot be level, but may
approach this condition.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
FIG. 5
FIG. 6
This Interesting Model Cableway was Built by a Boy for Play and
Experimental Purposes: The Principle by Which the Weight of the Car is
Compensated in Single and Multiple Systems is Indicated in the Diagrams
Above. Cars Propelled by Sail Rigging or by a Small Battery Motor may
Also be Used]
A model of the compensated cableway, as shown in the page plate, or
on a smaller scale, may be made by a boy of fair mechanical skill.
For experimental purposes the detail may, of course, be refined to a
high grade of workmanship, if desired. The size and dimensions of the
parts need not be proportioned precisely as shown, but may depend more
or less upon the materials available. The track cable should be made
of galvanized-iron wire, the compensating cable of fishline, and the
towers of 1-in. stuff, the width of the pieces making up the A-frames
being increased in proportion to the height. Grooved pulley wheels, set
in housings fixed to the top of the A-frames, carry the compensating
cable. These may be made of wood, built up in three sections, to
provide a flange on each side of the cable groove. The A-frames should
be joined strongly at the top, and braced to anchors, sunk into the
ground as shown. The hooks from which the track cable is suspended are
made of heavy wire, bent so as not to interfere with the H-frame hanger
supporting the car, and looped around the cable.
Various types of hangers may be devised to house the two pulley wheels
which ride on the track cable. A simple H-frame hanger is shown in the
detail sketch in the page plate. The grooved pulley wheels are set on
bolts, and a heavy wire is bent and set through the center block as
a support for the car. For experimental purposes, or even for play,
when it is not desired to make a more elaborate car, a wooden block or
other object of sufficient weight may be used as a load. An interesting
feature of the work, especially for a boy, is to devise a realistic
coach model, as suggested in the sketch. A wooden block forms the base,
and the roof and platforms are made of sheet metal. The windows and
doors are painted on the metal. The inventive boy may, of course, build
a car with a hollow metal or wooden body, and weight it properly to
provide the necessary load.
The motive power is provided by means of a cord, or traction cable,
carried around two large grooved pulleys, mounted in supports fixed to
the landing stages at each end of the cableway. They are made of wood,
a suitable groove being cut around the edge with a saw, and smoothed
with a small round file, or sandpaper wrapped over a round rod. The
traction pulley is turned by means of a crank, set on the bolt which is
used as an axle. The traction cable must be drawn sufficiently taut to
provide the necessary pressure on the grooved pulleys, or it will slip.
Rosin applied to the pulleys and the cable will tend to prevent this.
[Illustration: FIG. 7
The Car is Propelled by the Wind Action on a Sail Controlled Like the
Main Sheet of a Sailboat in Tacking. The Trigger Device Releases the
Sail, Reversing the Course of the Car]
If the frames and other fittings have been properly set up, the
cableway will support a sail car, shown in Fig. 7, or a two-cell
electric car, driven by a small motor, as shown in Fig. 8. The
sailing-car arrangement is often feasible, since a stiff breeze is
common in gorges, cañons, narrow valleys, or even in ravines where
such a cableway might be set up. The hanger is an H-frame having the
grooved pulleys bolted in it, and further reinforced by small blocks
at the ends. A braced frame, supporting a deck on which a mast is set,
is suspended from the hanger by four curved wires, as shown in the
side view, Fig. 7. A sail with boom and gaff is supported by the mast.
It is arranged to be shifted around the mast, which is accomplished
automatically at the end of a run, or “tack,” by means of the trigger
device shown in the top view. The sail is controlled in relation to the
wind much as is the main sheet of a sailboat. The car can be operated
in this manner only at right angles to the direction of the wind,
or nearly so. For play purposes, a boy stationed at each end of the
cableway can shift the sail, but the trigger device shown makes this
unnecessary. A rubber band is attached to the boom, as indicated in the
top view, and a cord and wire are arranged to engage a trigger. A stop
for the trigger is fixed to the A-frame so that it is sprung when the
car reaches the end of the run. The rubber band reverses the sail, the
car having been set on the cable originally so that the forward end is
in proper relation to the wind.
[Illustration: FIG. 8
The Electric Car Is Self-Contained and may be Reversed Automatically,
if the Motor Is of the Reversible Type, by Contact of the Lever with
the Stop Fixed to the A-Frame]
The electric car is especially interesting in that it provides
self-contained motive power by means of a battery of dry cells, and a
motor belted to the hanger, as shown in Fig. 8. The hanger is of the
H-frame type with heavy blocks between the sidepieces to provide for
the small grooved driving pulley set on the axle of one of the larger
pulleys. A wooden deck, supported by four heavy wires set into the
center block of the hanger, carries the motor, and the dry cells are
fixed under it. The motor is of the small reversible battery type, and
should be provided with a reversing lever. This will make it possible
to reverse the car when it reaches the end of its course. The motor and
cells should be disposed so as to balance, tests being made for this
purpose before setting them in place finally. A cord or small leather
belt connects the drive pulley of the motor with the proper pulley on
the hanger. These pulleys should be in line, and that on the hanger
should be five times the diameter of the one on the motor shaft. The
power is shut off at the end of the course by a shut-off switch which
strikes a stop crank attached to the A-frame. When the reversing lever
and stop are used, the stop crank is unnecessary. A nonreversing motor
can be made to drive the car in a reverse direction by removing the
belt from the motor pulley and replacing it to make a figure-eight
twist.
* * * * *
¶When babbitt metal is heated some of the tin and antimony in it is
burned out, making it unsuited for use in machinery bearings, and
similar purposes, after several heatings. The oxidation of the metal
is indicated by the formation of a scum on the surface.
[Illustration: A Miniature Fighting Tank
That Hurdles Trenches
BY EDWARD R. SMITH]
Among the engines of war in action on land, probably none has created
greater interest than the now famous “fighting tank,” which, according
to reports, pours out missiles of destruction on the enemy from
armored turrets, and crawls over trenches, shell craters, and similar
obstructions, like a fabled giant creature of prehistoric ages. The
tank described in this article, while not as deadly as those on
the battle fields of Europe, performs remarkable feats of hurdling
trenches, and crawling over obstructions, large in proportion to its
size. The model, as shown in the heading sketches, is full-armored,
and has a striking resemblance to these war monsters. The turret is
mounted with a magazine gun, which fires 20 projectiles automatically,
as the tank makes its way over the rough ground. The motive power for
the tractor bands is furnished by linked rubber bands, stretched by a
winding drum and ratchet device, on the rear axle, as shown in Fig. 1.
When the ratchet is released, the rear axle drives the fluted wheels
on it, and they in turn drive the tractor bands, as shown in the side
elevation, Fig. 6. The wire-wrapped flywheel conserves the initial
power of the rubber-band motor, and makes its action more nearly
uniform.
The tank will run upward of 10 ft. on the rubber-motor power, depending
on the size and number of the bands used. The gun is fired by a spring
hammer, actuated by a rubber band. The trigger device is shown in Fig.
1. The pulley A is belted, with cord, to the front axle. Four pins on
its inner side successively engage the wire trigger, drawing it out of
the gun breech B, and permitting another shell to drop into place. As
the pulley revolves, the trigger is released, firing the projectile.
This process goes on until the motor runs down, or the supply of shells
is exhausted.
The tank is guided by the pilot wheel, shown in Fig. 1. The sheet-metal
armor, with its turret, is fitted over the mechanism, and can be
removed quickly. It bears on angles bent up, as detailed in Fig. 2,
to fit on the ends of the wooden center crosspiece of the main frame,
and is held by removable pins at the ends of this frame. While the
rubber motor is easy to make and install, the range of the tank can be
increased by using a strong spring motor, the construction otherwise
being similar.
The construction is best begun by making the wooden frame which
supports the armor. The perspective sketch, Fig. 1, used in connection
with the working and detailed drawings, will aid in making the latter
clear. Make the frame C, as detailed in Figs. 5 and 6, ³⁄₈ by 1³⁄₄ by
11 in. long, with an opening cut in the center, 1 in. wide, 1 in. from
the rear, and 1¹⁄₄ in. from the front end. Make the crosspiece D ³⁄₈ by
1³⁄₄ by 5⁷⁄₈ in. long; the gun support E, as detailed in Fig. 4, ³⁄₈
by 1⁵⁄₁₆ by 6¹⁄₄ in. long. Shape the support E as shown. Fasten the
frame C and the crosspiece D with screws, setting the piece D 5³⁄₄ in.
from the front, and its left end 3 in. from the side of the frame, as
shown in Fig. 5. This is important, as the fitting of the other parts
depends on the position of these wooden supports.
[Illustration: FIG. 3
FIG. 4
FIG. 1
FIG. 2
Perspective Sketch, Showing the Arrangement of the Parts, with the
Armor and the Tractor Bands Removed, and Details of the Gun Mechanism
and the Armor]
The drive-wheel axles are carried in sheet-metal hangers, F, shown in
Figs. 1 and 5, and detailed in Fig. 6. These hangers also carry bearing
wheels, G, Fig. 1, which are held between the hanger F and a metal
angle, as detailed at G, Fig. 6. These wheels are cut on a broomstick,
and mounted on nail axles. The metal for the hangers F is drilled as
shown, and bent double at the ends to make a strong bearing for the
drive-wheel axles. The upper portion is bent at a right angle and fits
over the top surface at the end of the crosspiece D, and is fastened to
it with small screws or nails. Cut the stock for the hangers 2 by 6³⁄₈
in. long.
Next make the sheet-metal support H, Fig. 1, for the flywheel, the rim
of which is wrapped with wire to give it added weight. Cut the stock,
as detailed in Fig. 6, 1³⁄₄ by 4³⁄₁₆ in. long, and notch it to form the
spring arrangement, which holds the flywheel so that the belt will be
tight. The other sheet-metal support may then be made also. Cut the
stock for the front support J, for the rubber motor, 4¹⁄₈ by 3³⁄₄ in.
long, and shape it as shown in the detail, Fig. 6. Make the support
K from a piece of sheet metal, in general shape similar to that used
for support H, the dimensions being made as required, and no spring
arrangement being provided. Drill these metal fittings, as indicated,
for the points of fastening, and mark the places for the holes in which
shafts or axles run very carefully.
The driving mechanism can then be made, as shown in Fig. 1, and
detailed in Figs. 5 and 6. The driving shafts and their parts, as well
as the pulleys, can be turned in a lathe, or made from spools, round
rods, etc. Make the front axle L, and wheels, joined solidly, 5³⁄₄
in. over all, the grooved wheels being ³⁄₄ in. thick, and 1⁷⁄₁₆ in.
in diameter. Wires are used as bearings for shafts for the driving
axles. If the rear axle is turned in a lathe, it is cut down to the
shape indicated, thinner at the middle, to provide a place for the cord
connected to the rubber motor. The grooved pulley and the fluted drive
wheel at the winding-key end, shown in Fig. 5, are then cut loose; the
drive wheel on the other end is cut loose, forming three sections,
mounted on the wire axle, one end of which is the winding key. Ratchet
wheels, M, are fitted between the ends of the center section and the
adjoining pieces, the ratchet wheels being nailed to the center section
and soldered to the wire axle. Pawls, U, are fitted to the inside of
the two end sections, as indicated in Fig. 1 and in Fig. 5. When the
rubber motor is wound up on the drum, the tractor bands are gripped
until it is desired to start the tank on its trip. Then the power is
communicated from the drum, or center section of the axle, to the drive
wheels by means of the ratchet wheels, acting on the pawls.
Mount the hangers F on the center crosspiece D, fitting the axles of
the drive wheels into place. Make the weighted flywheel, and mount
it on its shaft, as shown, lining it up with the pulley on the rear
drive shaft. Fit the supports J and K into place, setting spools for
the rubber-motor cord in place, on wire axles. Arrange the belt from
the flywheel to the drive shaft, and connect the rubber bands for the
rubber motor as shown. Fasten one end in the hook of support J, and
pass the winding cord through the spools, and fix it to the drive
shaft. The device can then be operated with the fluted drive wheels,
bearing on strips of wood for tracks.
The tractor bands N are fitted over the drive wheels, as shown in
Fig. 6. They are built up of canvas strips, on which wooden shoes are
glued and sewed, as detailed in Fig. 5. The stitches which reinforce
the gluing are taken in the order indicated by the numerals. The pilot
wheel is 2 in. in diameter, and sharpened at its circumference. Make a
metal shell, O, for it, as detailed in Fig. 6. Solder the shell to the
double wire, which supports the wheel and gives it a spring tension to
take obstructions nicely. The wire is fastened to the crosspiece D, as
shown in Fig. 5.
The gun and its mechanism can be made handily before the support E is
fixed into place at the front of the crosspiece D. Shape the magazine P
from sheet metal, making it 2⁵⁄₈ in. high, as detailed in Fig. 4. Make
the gun Q from a piece of sheet metal, as detailed, cutting the metal
to the exact dimensions indicated. Mount the magazine and the gun, and
arrange the wire hammer R, and the rubber band that holds it. Fit the
pulley A into place on its axle, supported by a small block of wood.
Belt it to the front drive-wheel axle, as shown in Fig. 5, after the
gun support is fastened into place with screws. Make the projectiles
of wood, as shown, and the fighting tank is ready to be tested before
putting on the armor.
The armor is made of one deck piece, S, Fig. 3, into which the covered
turret is set, and two side pieces T, as detailed in Fig. 2. Make one
left and one right sidepiece, allowing for the flanges all around, to
be bent over and used for riveting or soldering the armor together.
The bottom extension on the sidepieces is bent double to form an angle,
on which the armor is supported, where it rests on the top of the
hangers F. The turret is fitted to the deck by cutting notches along
its lower edge, the resulting strips being alternately turned in and
out along the point of joining, as shown in Fig. 3. When the armor is
completed, it is fitted over the main frame, the gun projecting from
the turret. Small pins hold the ends of the armor solid against the
ends of the main frame C, so that the armor can be lifted off readily.
The various parts of the fighting tank can be painted as desired, care
being taken not to injure the points of bearing, on the axles and
pulleys, which should be oiled. Silver bronze is a good finish for the
exterior of the armor, which may be decorated with a coat of arms.
[Illustration: FIG. 5
FIG. 6
Plan and Side Elevation of the Interior Mechanism, with the Armor
Removed, and Details of the Metal Fittings, the Ratchets, and the
Tractor Bands]
A Neat and Economical Baby Crib Made from a Clothes Basket
[Illustration: A Few Sticks of Wood and a Clothes Basket Make a
Convenient Cradle for the Baby]
A clothes basket on a simple but strong wooden frame, mounted on
castors, makes a cradle which is as convenient and sanitary as many
which are sold for five times its cost. It is light enough to roll out
on the porch without difficulty, and may be padded and fitted with
pillows until the most exacting mother is satisfied. The basket and
frame should be painted, preferably some light color. The whole cost,
not including pads or pillows, should not be over $2.50.--A. Switzer,
Denver, Colo.
A Small Rheostat for Experiments and Testing
[Illustration: This Homemade Rheostat Has a Capacity of One-Half to
Five Amperes, on a Six-Volt Circuit]
A rheostat made as shown in the sketch has been used successfully for
calibrating a large number of ammeters and wattmeters. One of the
general designs suggested will be useful for many other purposes.
The dimensions given were used for obtaining a variation of from
¹⁄₂ to 5 amperes with a 6-volt source of electromotive force. For
other capacities the proportions may be increased or decreased
proportionately. A piece of pine, 7 by 9¹⁄₂ in., forms the base.
For resistance wire No. 16 gauge “Climax” was used, but wire of any
material which will carry the maximum current without excessive
oxidation may be employed instead. Nails support the resistance wire,
which should be soldered to the nails to insure good electrical
contact. Leads of flexible cord are arranged as shown. These are
soldered to the first and last nails in the series. To provide
connection between the free ends of the cord and the resistance wire
or the nails, 5-ampere test clips are soldered to the cord ends. The
teeth of the clip jaws are filed off, and in their stead a short piece
of brass wire is soldered to each jaw, as indicated in the detailed
view. A nick is filed in each of the brass wires so that they will hold
firmly onto the resistance wire or nail. Suspender or display-case
clips, suitably modified, may be substituted for the commercial test
clips.
In using the device, one clip is moved along the front span. The other
is gripped to a nail in the rear row. Sliding the front clip along
the span wire insures a fine adjustment of resistance. Gripping the
rear clip on the different nails provides the coarse adjustment--R. F.
Binney, La Vina, Calif.
* * * * *
¶Glue applied to door-knob screws will prevent them from loosening
easily, yet they may be removed without difficulty.
Roll-Paper Feed for Typewriter
Typewriter paper may be fed from a roll where only one copy is
necessary and where maximum speed of production is essential. Sections,
not to exceed about 11 in. in length, of the typed paper are torn off
as necessary. This practice is followed often in newspaper offices. The
roll paper can be purchased at any paper-supply house, cut to the width
required by the user. The construction of a roll-feed attachment which
may be mounted on any of the standard typewriters will be described.
[Illustration: A Paper-Roll Holder for Typewriters That can be Attached
to Any Standard Machine]
First make the two uprights. Both are cut from ¹⁄₆-in. sheet brass, as
shown. After cutting, heat the pieces to anneal them before bending. A
hole is provided for the paper-roll rod in the right-hand upright and a
slot in the left-hand one. A rod, threaded on one end and equipped with
two nuts, constitutes the paper holder. For a guide plate and cutter,
cut a piece of sheet brass, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide and of a length equal to
that of the carriage, as detailed in the drawing. Bend it as shown. A
¹⁄₈-in. slot is cut almost the entire length of the guide.
In mounting the holder on the typewriter, the uprights are drilled at
the base to engage the two small screws at the side of the carriage
back of the roller. The exact location of these holes will vary in
machines of the different makes. Next, the uprights are clamped into
place with the screws, one at each end of the carriage. Then determine
the distance between the arms of the uprights, drill a corresponding
hole at each end of the guide-and-cutter plate, and fasten the plate
to the uprights with small stove bolts. The roll of paper is placed on
the rod and fed between the machine platen and roller as with single
sheets. When the article or memorandum being written is finished, the
paper is held against the guide plate and the blade of a pocketknife
inserted in the slot. Passing the blade the length of the slot cuts off
the paper, or it may be torn off at the slot. The end of the paper roll
is again fed into the machine, ready for another operation.
Handy Paring Knife Made from Old Hacksaw Blade
[Illustration: A Serviceable Paring Knife Made from a Piece of Hacksaw
Blade, and Details of Its Construction: The Handle and Blade are Held
Together with a Rivet and a Lead Ferrule]
With a little work a hacksaw blade, or a portion of one, can be made
into a paring knife that will prove very durable because of the
excellent quality of the steel. Two pieces of hard wood should be cut
into the shapes shown and riveted together with one end of the blade
between them. After putting a paper mold about the end of the handle
from which the steel projects, melted lead is poured into it, to form
a collar that will hold the parts firmly together. The exposed part of
the saw can then be ground as desired.
Washing Machine Equipped with Churn Attachment
[Illustration: Without Impairing the Usefulness of this Washing Machine
a Plunger has been Attached to the Flywheel Which Does the Work of a
Churn, a Jar for the Cream being Installed as Shown]
The owner of a power-driven family washing machine has provided an
attachment for it with which he churns cream at a little additional
expenditure of energy. A wooden plunger was bolted to the outside of
the flywheel and its upper end placed between two rollers set in a
metal frame attached to the side of the tub. Enough play was allowed
between the rollers to permit the plunger to move up and down freely.
A framework large enough to hold a glass fruit jar was attached to
the side of the plunger, a thumbscrew being provided in its upper end
with which the jar is held firmly in place. As the flywheel revolves,
the movement of the plunger thoroughly agitates the contents of the
jar.--Dale R. Van Horn, North Loup, Neb.
Treating Closets with Cedar Oil
Apropos of the article in a recent issue of Popular Mechanics Magazine
entitled “A Cedar-Lined Oak Chest,” readers who desire the advantages
of a cedar-lined box or closet may accomplish it by the use of cedar
oil. Painting the interior of a box with this oil will to all intents
and purposes convert it into a cedar chest regardless of the kind of
wood used. The cost of the oil is not great. A closet treated in the
same manner will likewise keep out insects.--Robert E. M. Bain, St.
Louis, Mo.
Barnyard Gate is Operated with the Foot
[Illustration: This Gate is Unlatched by Operating the Foot Lever as
indicated. It Is a Special Convenience When One has Both Hands Occupied
Carrying Pails or Bundles]
A gate which can be unlatched with the foot has proven a great
convenience across a path on a farm where laborers frequently pass with
both hands occupied carrying pails. Pivoted to the side of the gate,
near its center, a beam, or foot lever, is hung in a vertical position,
extending almost to the ground and having a shelf bracket fastened
to its upper end. The horizontal arm of the bracket passes beneath a
porcelain knob projecting from a pivoted bar that engages the elbow
catch. By pushing the vertical beam to one side with the foot the bar
is raised above the catch, allowing the gate to swing open. If the gate
is properly hung it will close of itself, the elbow catch serving to
prevent its being opened again, except when the bar is raised.--T. C.
McDowell, Adrian, Michigan.
Improvised Post-Card Projector and Enlarging Camera
BY HARRY MARCELLE
An outfit which may be used for either projecting picture post cards
or enlarging photographic negatives was assembled as delineated in the
illustration. An ordinary camera, which provides the lens and bellows,
is required, in combination with a dark box which can be built in the
home workshop. The method of construction is this:
Make a box about 8 in. square out of ¹⁄₂-in. planed soft-wood stock.
Nail the sides, but omit, for the present, the top and the bottom. The
two openings thus left will be called the front and the back. Mount an
8 by 8 by ¹⁄₂-in. board, D, which constitutes a door, on the back with
hinges and provide a hook to hold it shut. Cut a square hole, of the
same size as that of the opening in the back of the camera which is to
be used, in another 8 by 8-in. piece, E. This will constitute the front
board. This front board is so cut that it fits in between the sides
of the box instead of on the ends, as does the back. In the top, cut
a square hole for ventilation. A hood is provided over this hole to
prevent light being thrown forward.
When using the arrangement as a projector or magic lantern two
40-watt tungsten lamps, A, are required. Each lamp is mounted in a
porcelain receptacle held on the floor with screws. A lamp cord, one
end connecting the two lamps in multiple and the other fitted with an
attachment plug, passes through a hole in the floor of the box. Form
the two reflectors, B, of 8 by 7-in. bright tinned sheet-iron pieces,
each having holes along one of its edges to admit of attachment. The
reflectors are bent to a semicircular contour before mounting. The card
holder is detailed at C. It is a piece of tinned sheet iron bent to
the form shown so that it will hold a post card. A hole is drilled in
its center for a screw pivot. It can then be fastened to the center of
the back door and can be turned into position for either horizontal or
vertical pictures. A washer is inserted on the screw between the holder
and the door. The thickness of the camera body having been determined,
a slide is fastened to the front board, as diagrammed, to support this
body.
[Illustration: An Ordinary Small Camera, Fitted with This Attachment,
Becomes an Enlarging and Post-Card Projecting Camera]
Before it can be used as a projector it must be adjusted to operate
with the camera of the type and size available. The adjustment, which
must be made in a darkened room, having on one of its walls a white
screen on which the image will be projected, is effected thus: Remove
the back from the camera and place the camera in the slide without
extending the bellows. Open the shutter. Insert a card in the holder
C. Light the tungsten lamps. Now move the front board, with the camera
carried on it, back and forth within the box until the components
are in focus, that is, until the most distinct image obtainable is
reproduced on the screen. Then, illuminate the previously darkened
room and nail the front board in the position thus determined. These
adjustments having been made, paint the box, inside and out, a coat of
dead black. Everything should be painted black except the reflecting
surfaces of the tin reflectors and the incandescent-lamp bulbs. The
front board having been fastened, subsequent focusing can be effected
by shifting longitudinally the lens board of the camera. The image of
any sort of a picture that will fit in the holder can be reproduced.
Colored post cards will project in their natural tints.
To make enlargements with the same box, a few minor changes are
necessary. When employed for enlargements the tungsten lamps, which
are required for projection, are not used. They may, however, remain
in the box and can be disconnected from circuit by unscrewing them a
few turns. The negative, or film, which is to be enlarged, is held in
the opening E. Where a film is to be reproduced, it is held between two
pieces of glass which are fastened to the inside of the front board
with small clips. If a glass negative is used, the two additional glass
plates are unnecessary. If the negative does not fill the opening in
the camera, a mask cut from heavy black paper will be required to cut
off the light.
The light for the enlargement is furnished by another tungsten lamp
mounted in a porcelain receptacle which is screwed to a board which
constitutes a base. This light source is moved about in the house
until it is directly back of the opening E in the front of the box
and until the light is distributed equally over the entire negative.
To focus, move the camera backward or forward. While focusing, use a
yellow glass, or ray screen, to cover the lens. When focusing has been
completed, the shutter is closed and the ray screen removed. Then stop
down the lens to bring out detail, and expose.
Changing a Motor-Car Tire without a Jack
[Illustration]
It occasionally happens that a motorist fails to have a jack at
hand when a tire needs to be changed on the road. The situation is
easily met with the aid of a strong board and a couple of blocks or
rocks. Driving the desired wheel onto the incline, provided in the
manner illustrated, and setting the brakes, a block is placed beneath
the axle. The board is then knocked out of the way.--John Peters,
Milwaukee, Wis.
Roller Truck for Use in Scrubbing
A little padded platform on wheels takes most of the drudgery away
from scrubbing in hotels and office buildings. The platform carries
the pail as well as the scrubber, and enables the scrubber to keep
dry.--Florence L. Clark, McGregor, Ia.
Economical Use of Wood Alcohol in Small Cooking Stove
A couple eating breakfast and supper in their room used a chafing
dish for cooking. A hard alcohol was used for fuel, and the expense
seemed too high. So a fuel can was filled with pulverized asbestos pipe
covering, and then saturated with wood alcohol. A quart of alcohol
lasted about a month.--Charles A. King, Plymouth, N. H.
Attractive Table Stands for Hot Dishes
[Illustration]
Attractive stands which will preserve the dining table from injuries,
or heat marks made by hot dishes, can be easily made from thin pieces
of board cut oblong or oval. After the board has been cut the proper
size, cleats are fastened to the underside to which billiard-cue tips
are attached to serve as supports. The stand should be varnished and
waxed to match the table.--George L. Furse, St. Louis, Mo.
Cord Used as Spacer for Curtain Rings
To make the curtain rings space automatically along the curtain pole,
tie a cord from one ring to the next, spacing the rings uniformly. Or
the cord may be attached at uniform distances to the curtain. A pull at
the edge of the curtain will space the rings evenly every time.--Frank
L. Matter, Portland, Ore.
Device for Packing Earth in Transplanting
[Illustration]
When tomato or cabbage plants are to be set out in considerable
numbers, the simple implement shown here makes stooping over to press
the dirt about the plants unnecessary. After a row of plants has been
set in dibble holes and watered, the soil can be packed about their
roots quickly while one is standing upright. The jaws of the device are
actuated by means of the hinged lever.--A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Ont.
Cleat and Pulley Fastenings to Adjust Clothesline
The following kink will relieve the housewife of the trouble of sagging
clotheslines, and hubby of constantly being asked to tighten up the
line. The cost should not be over 25 cents, as all that is needed is a
pulley cleat and hook, all of which may be had at any ten-cent store.
When the line gets slack, it is pulled tight through the pulley and
tightened up in the cleat.--S. H. Johnson, Westville, Conn.
Convenient Type of Mail Box for Home Use
[Illustration: The Mail Box is Lengthened So That It Reaches through
the Wall to the Inside, Where a Door is Placed through Which the Mail
can be Removed]
A person having a mail box set flush in the outside wall of his home
can, with a little alteration, make it accessible from inside the
house: After removing the back side of the box a tin extension should
be soldered to the box giving it sufficient length to reach through the
wall in which an opening of the proper size has been cut. The enlarged
container is completed by adding a glass door to the inner end which
enables one to ascertain its contents at a glance.--A. Pertle, Chicago,
Ills.
Block Plane Converted for Use on Circular Work
[Illustration]
Few amateur craftsmen can afford to own a circular plane, yet this tool
is decidedly necessary for such round work as table tops, half-round
shelves, segments, and the like. Any ordinary block plane will
accomplish such work if equipped as illustrated. A piece of half-round
hard wood is cut the width of the plane and attached with countersunk
machine screws, as indicated. The block elevates the rear end of the
plane, causing it to follow the curve of the work on which it is used.
Pressure Spray Made of Old Oilcan
[Illustration: Old Material Makes a Spray That Is as Good as the
Manufactured Product, at Less Cost]
In making a spraying outfit for garden use, or similar purposes, a 3
or 5-gal. kerosene can and tire pump may be satisfactorily employed.
The latter is attached rigidly at the rear of the container with iron
straps, as shown. A ball check valve is fitted in the top of the
receptacle and connection is made between it and the pump with the pump
hose. A 6-ft. length of ¹⁄₄-in. rubber tubing is wired to the drain
cock. An 8-in. piece of ¹⁄₄-in. brass pipe is filed down and wired in
the spray end of the hose to serve as a nozzle.--P. P. Avery, Garfield,
N. J.
Keeping Tools Bright and Free from Rust
Bright-finished tools can be preserved against rust by coating with
linseed oil, and allowing the oil to dry as a film. If more body is
desired, oxide of iron, very finely powdered, should be mixed with the
oil. Another antirust coating is made by dissolving ¹⁄₂ oz. camphor in
1 lb. melted lard. The mixture is skimmed, and fine graphite added to
make an iron color. Clean the tools and smear with this mixture. Let
the tools stand 24 hours, and rub clean with soft cloth.
A good method of removing rust is to cover the metal parts with sweet
oil, rubbing it in well. Let stand 48 hours; then rub with finely
powdered, unslaked lime. Next immerse the article for a few seconds in
a solution of ¹⁄₂ oz. potassium cyanide in a wine glass of water. Then
clean with a paste of potassium cyanide, castile soap, whiting, and
water, using a toothbrush. Potassium cyanide is a strong poison, and
should be used carefully.--E. Standiford, Youngstown, Ohio.
Repairing Leaks in Pipes
Frequently a cast or malleable-iron pipe fitting will leak through
its side, the water oozing, drop by drop, from a pinhole--ordinarily
due to a sand hole in the casting. Sometimes the leak can be stopped
by hammering the affected spot with the ball end of a hammer. If this
fails, it is necessary to replace the fitting. Where the leak is around
a thread, screwing the pipe or fitting tighter constitutes the only,
and usually effective, corrective.--L. A. Merton, St. Louis, Mo.
Corn Popper Made from Coffee Can and Broom Handle
[Illustration: A Corn Popper Made from a Coffee Can, or Similar Tin
Receptacle, and a Piece of a Broom Handle]
With an old coffee can, or similar tin receptacle, and a piece of a
broom handle, 2¹⁄₂ or 3 ft. long, it is easy to make a corn popper
that is preferable in many ways to a wire one. Take a strip of wood a
little shorter than the height of the can to be used, and after boring
two holes in it to prevent its splitting, nail it to the end of the
handle. The latter is then fastened to the side of the can with two
wire staples, as shown. Holes are made in the can top to admit air to
the corn while it is popping.--James Crouse, Dixon, Ky.
An Easily Constructed Ball-Bearing Anemometer
BY THOMAS A. REYNOLDS
An anemometer is an instrument which measures the velocity of the
wind. The anemometers used by the weather bureau consist of four
hemispherical cups mounted on the ends of two horizontal rods which
cross at right angles and are supported on a freely turning vertical
axle. Since the concave sides of the cups offer more resistance to
the wind than do the convex sides the device is caused to revolve at
a speed which is proportional, approximately, to that of the wind.
The axle, to which the rotary motion is transmitted from the cups,
is connected to a dial mounted at the foot of the supporting column.
This dial records automatically the rotations. The reproduction of
such a registering mechanism would be rather complicated. Hence, in
the arrangement to be described none will be employed. Therefore, one
of these improvised anemometers, when mounted on a high building,
will indicate by the changing rapidity of its revolutions only the
comparative, not the real, velocity of the wind.
[Illustration: This Anemometer is Made from Galvanized Sheet Iron, a
Bicycle Hub, and a Few Iron Straps. Practice in Observing Its Motion
will Enable One to Estimate Fairly Closely the Wind’s Velocity]
In constructing the instrument, straight, dished vanes will be used
instead of hollow cups. The vanes operate almost as effectively and
may be combined more readily into a sturdy rotating unit. A bicycle
front hub is utilized to constitute a wear- and noise-proof bearing
having minimum friction. Each of the four wings is formed from a piece
of galvanized iron, measuring 4¹⁄₂ by 10 in., which has one end cut
to a curve as shown. To each wing is fastened, with tinners’ rivets,
a 4-in. length of ³⁄₄ by ¹⁄₁₆-in. strap iron. Form each of the strips
into a trough-shaped vane, measuring 2¹⁄₄ in. from edge to edge--this
being the distance between the spoke flanges of a bicycle hub. Some
cylindrical object of suitable diameter will serve as a form for
bending. Place the ends of the support strips between the spoke flanges
and rivet them securely. The rivets pass through the spoke holes. Some
trying out may be required to insure a symmetrical arrangement of the
parts. Solder the curved end of each wing to the inner surface of the
adjacent wing. Place a tin cap--a salve-box lid will do--under the
upper locknut on the hub to exclude rain from the bearing.
The supporting upright may be a heavy wooden rod, or a piece of iron
pipe. A yoke of 1 by ¹⁄₈-in. strap iron, held to the top of the upright
with screws, is provided for the attachment of the hub. The locknut
on the hub clamps it to the yoke. Apply a coat of metal paint to the
iron parts which are exposed. Mount the device sufficiently high to
give the wind free access to it from all directions. The curve at one
end of each wing is an irregular one. Hence, its accurate construction
involves a knowledge of sheet-metal pattern drawing. However, if it is
made of a form similar to that shown it will fit sufficiently well to
permit a good soldered joint.
* * * * *
¶Boards exposed to the weather should be laid with the heart side
down, as determined by examining the end grain.
[Illustration: FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 1
Sharpened Poles, Two Feet Long, are Used with This Pile Driver in
Building Foundations, Wharves, and Other Structures of Piling. The
Details of the Headblock and the Nipper Device are Shown in Figs. 2 and
3]
[Illustration: A Small Working Pile Driver
BY EDWARD A. KRUEGER]
[These directions will enable boys of varying skill with tools
to make a pile driver, as a toy or model. Several simple methods
of making the parts in the home workshop, with materials easily
obtainable, are suggested.--Editor.]
The construction of small docks, wharves, piers, and foundations or
bridges, buildings, and other structures, by the driving of piling is
interesting out-of-door play, in which boys will find much fun. A pile
driver for this work is shown in the page plate, Fig. 1. The hammer
is raised by means of a winch, and is dropped automatically when it
reaches the cap of the derrick, as indicated in Fig. 3. The drum is
then released, and the weighted double-hook nipper drops down, picking
up the hammer on the next upstroke. A single-hook nipper, that can
be made easily of wire, is also shown in the detail sketch, Fig. 6.
The small boy who cannot make the nippers or the winch, may tie the
rope directly to the hammer, drawing it up by hand, and dropping it
as desired. The hammer need not be fitted to the guides, but merely
arranged to drop between them, and the derrick can be made of only
a few main pieces. The larger parts of the hammer and nipper weight
are best made of lead, babbitt, or white metal, as these may be cut
or melted readily. Iron, brass, or copper, solid or in plates, may be
used, if means for shaping them are at hand.
The making of the derrick may be undertaken first. Make two pieces
for the bed A, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 17 in.; two hammer guides B, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈
by 33¹⁄₈ in.; one bed piece, C, ³⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 20 in.; two bed pieces,
D, ³⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 5¹⁄₄ in.; two posts, E, ¹⁄₂ by ¹⁄₂ by 34¹⁄₂ in.; two
braces, F, ³⁄₈ by ³⁄₄ by 26¹⁄₂ in. Cut these pieces slightly over their
finished lengths as given, allowing for trimming and fitting. Make
strips, ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in., for the bracing on the sides of the derrick and
the ladder bracing on the back.
Notch the lower ends of guides B, ¹⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈. and the lower ends of
posts E, on an angle, ¹⁄₈ in. deep, to fit pieces A. Join the parts of
the bed, as shown in the page plate, pieces A being set 3¹⁄₂ in. apart,
fastening them with bolts or screws. Make braces G, of sheet metal, and
bolt them in place. Fit the posts E into place, and fasten them at the
bed and the top. Put on several ladder braces temporarily, to steady
the frame. Fit the braces F carefully, and bolt them in place. Remove
the piece C and the braces F, and nail the horizontal bracing to the
sides of the frame. Then fit and nail the diagonal braces. The bolted
construction is convenient in “knocking down” the derrick for storing
it. Reassemble the parts, and make the cap for the headblock.
The headblock and cap are shown in detail in Figs. 2 and 3. Make two
pieces, H, ¹⁄₄ by 1⁵⁄₁₆ by 1³⁄₄ in.; one piece, J, ¹⁄₄ by 1 by 1³⁄₁₆
in.; two braces, K, ¹⁄₄ by 1¹³⁄₃₂ by 1³⁄₄ in. Make the two beveled
pieces of the cap ⁷⁄₈ by 1³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₂ in., and provide a wooden strip
or metal plate for the front and rear edges, as shown. Fasten strips of
sheet metal to the bevel of the notch, to protect it from wear by the
striking of the nipper hooks. Make the sheave 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter and
³⁄₈ in. thick, with a groove for the rope. Assemble the parts, as shown.
The details of the winch are shown in Figs. 4 and 5, and the method of
assembling the parts, in Fig. 1. The drum may also be driven without
gears by fixing the crank directly to the shaft. Gears may be obtained
from old machines, or purchased from dealers in model supplies. Make
the supports L and M, Fig. 4, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 6⁵⁄₈ in., cutting patterns of
paper, if desired.
[Illustration: FIG. 4
The Supports of the Winch are Made of ³⁄₄-Inch Wood, Bolted to the Bed]
The gear, Fig. 5, is 3¹⁄₂ and the pinion ³⁄₄ in. in diameter. The drum
is of wood, 2 in. in diameter and 3⁵⁄₁₆ in. long. Its ends are 3¹⁄₂-in.
metal disks, fastened with screws. The shaft is a ³⁄₈-in. bolt, 5³⁄₈
in. long, and bears in holes bored in the supports, as shown in the
details of these parts. The crank N, Fig. 5, is made of a ³⁄₁₆-in. rod,
bent as shown, and fitted with a washer to fit next to the pinion.
The gear is set by means of the pawl O, which is bent from a strip
of ¹⁄₁₆-in. sheet metal. The brace P is bent from a ¹⁄₁₆ by ³⁄₄ by
1⁵⁄₈-in. strip of sheet metal, and riveted to the pawl. Assemble the
parts, fastening the gear to the drum end, and bolt the supports into
place. Put the pinion into mesh with the gear at its proper place, and
carefully mark the hole for the crank. Square the end of the crank and
the hole in the pinion, and fit them to a driving fit. Fix the rope
to the drum, and reeve it through the head block. The derrick is then
ready for the hammer and the weighted nipper.
[Illustration: FIG. 5
Details of the Drum, Its Driving Mechanism, and Fittings]
The hammer, shown in Fig. 6, may be made easily from a solid block
of lead, 1¹⁄₄ by 2⁵⁄₈ by 2⁵⁄₈ in. Cut ³⁄₁₆ by ⁷⁄₈-in. grooves in the
vertical edges to fit the guides. Make the circular ³⁄₁₆ by 1⁵⁄₈-in.
hammer plate Q of iron or brass, and fasten it with screws. Rivet the
wire lifting strap R, as shown.
[Illustration: FIG. 6
A Simple Method of Making the Tripping Device, and Details of the
Hammer]
The single-hook nipper, shown in Fig. 6, is made as follows: Flatten a
piece of ³⁄₁₆-in. wire at the middle, and drill a ³⁄₃₂-in. hole for the
bolt. Shape the lower end into a pointed hook, and bend the upper end
to form the trip arm. This strikes the notch in the cap of the derrick,
releasing the hammer. The rope is wired to the hook as shown. The
nipper weight is made of a solid piece of lead, 1¹⁄₄ by 2⁵⁄₈ in., by
1 in. high, grooved at the ends to fit the guides. Cut a slot through
it, for the hook, as shown in Fig. 6, and bolt the latter into place.
The double-hook nipper is better mechanically, and may be made of two
pieces of wire, or cut from sheet metal.
Test the action of the nippers, and bend or file the hooks to operate
properly. The pile driver may then be painted, and work on “jobs”
begun. If it is used at the water, fix metal guards at the lower ends
of the guides, to prevent the hammer from falling into the water.
Split Needle Causes Echo on Talking Machine
An amusing stunt is to split the end of a fiber talking-machine needle
carefully about ¹⁄₄ in., so as to make two points, slightly separated.
The needle is then placed on the machine, preferably on an old record,
so that the points play the record successively, producing an echo. If
the work is carefully done, and the points are separated slightly, both
reproductions will be fairly clear.--Frank Murphy, Faribault, Minn.
Weighting a Metal Base
[Illustration: Molten Lead as Poured In around Screws Fastened to the
Base]
Having to weight a shallow metal base to support a 4-ft. brass tube, I
found that the easiest way was to fasten four screws on the base with
nuts, as shown in the illustration, and pour in lead. The screws were
taken out in polishing the base.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
* * * * *
¶In toasting bread over a camp fire, it is best to cover the fire
with a tin pan.
Trunk Bookcase for Convenient Shipment
[Illustration: A Small Library may be Shipped Handily in This Bookcase]
Mechanics, engineers, and other persons are sometimes engaged in work
which keeps them at the same locality only a few months. Those who
desire to carry with them a small library will find the trunk bookcase,
as shown, convenient. It may be shipped as a trunk, and used as a
bookcase in one’s hotel or dwelling. Other articles than books may be
packed in it. The outside dimensions when closed are 31 by 18 by 18
in., providing for three shelves. It may be made of ³⁄₄-in. pine or
whitewood, and stained, or covered with impregnated canvas. The outer
corners are reinforced with metal corner plates, and suitable hardware
is provided.--Lloyd C. Eddy, Jr., Buffalo, N. Y.
Bottle Carrier Made of Pipe Straps
Two metal pipe straps, fitted around the neck of a bottle and bolted
together, form a convenient method of attaching a carrying handle to a
large bottle. The handle proper is made by fixing a grip in a bail of
wire similar to that on a bucket.
A Developing or Etching-Tray Rocker
[Illustration]
An appliance that saves time for the worker in a photographic dark room
is a tray rocker, made as follows: Fasten a bracket of strap iron,
into which are riveted the pointed ends of two spikes, to the under
side of a board, as shown in the detail sketch. Support this further
with a double angle fastened at the end of the board. Fix a small can,
weighted with lead, on the end of an iron rod, adjusted to a suitable
curve, and fasten the rod to the bracket. The weighted end should
extend under the edge of the table, as shown, and be balanced so that
it will rock the board and tray without tipping the latter toward the
bracket. The nails pivot on metal pieces, to protect the table top.--L.
L. Llewellyn, Piedmont, Calif.
Combination Laundry Tub and Dishwashing Sink
[Illustration]
A saving of space and time was effected in a home kitchen by the use
of a sink developed in a large kitchen. Two ordinary laundry tubs were
installed with the faucets raised above the tubs, as shown. A sink of
sheet zinc was fitted in the upper part of one tub; it has handles,
and a strainer set in the bottom. The strainer is closed by a rubber
stopper, and the sink becomes a dishpan. The sink is easily lifted
out for cleaning, or for washing clothes. Another use for the sink,
between meals, is for washing and preparing vegetables and fruits. The
second tub has a wire dish-draining rack, in which the china is rinsed
and sterilized by hot water from the faucet.--Mrs. Avis Gordon Vestal,
Chicago, Ill.
A Leather and Silk Bookmark
[Illustration:
A Jolly Good Book
Wherein To Look
Is Better To Me
Than Gold]
An artistic and useful bookmark was made from a silk ribbon passed
through a buckle of leather, tooled with an inscription and a
conventional design. Ribbon of various sizes may be used, and the
leather left plain if desired. The ends of the ribbon are fringed, as
shown. Monograms make interesting and individual decorations for the
leather portion.--Will Chapel, Manchester, Ia.
Emergency Oarlock of Rope
An oarlock that will give considerable service may be made by fixing a
loop of rope to the gunwale of a boat at the proper position. This kink
is useful in an emergency, such as when an oarlock is dropped overboard.
Planing Thin Sticks Held in Flooring Groove
Boys who make thin sticks for arrows, kites, etc., as well as the
mechanic, can make good use of the following suggestion: The difficulty
of handling thin strips while planing them may be overcome by setting
the strip in the groove of a piece of flooring, clamped in a vise. A
peg or nail is driven into the groove and acts as a stop for the end of
the strip.
[Illustration: A Submarine Camera
by Charles I. Reid]
Submarine photography should have great attractions for amateur
photographers who have access to lakes, ponds, and other clear waters.
While more careful work is demanded than in ordinary photography, the
method of obtaining good results is not difficult, and the necessary
equipment may be provided by constructing the device shown in the
illustration. Submarine pictures can be taken in a considerable depth
of water, providing it is reasonably free from foreign matter. This is
a fascinating field of photography, and many pictures of educational
and scientific value remain to be made of under-water life. The
illustration shows the detailed construction of the camera chamber, and
the method of suspending it from a bridge, or other place convenient to
the body of water. Reproduced in the oval panel is a photograph of fish
near baited hooks, on a fishline. The original was made from a negative
exposed by the use of the camera chamber described.
The problem of making photographic exposures under water involves
the provision of a strong water and pressure-proof container for the
camera, a means for controlling the shutter, and a suitable opening in
the container through which the exposures may be made. The arrangement
described combines these features in a simple manner, and by the use
of materials that can be obtained without difficulty. It was made for
a camera taking 4 by 5-in. pictures, and the dimensions given are for
a container for this size. The dimensions may be varied to adapt the
device to various cameras, within reasonable limits. A 9-in. steel pipe
was used for the chamber, and its ends were fitted with pipe caps.
A heavy piece of plate glass was fitted into the forward cap, which
was cut into the shape of a ring, to provide the exposure opening.
The general arrangement of the camera in the chamber is shown in the
sectional view, Fig. 1, as seen from the shutter end. The electrical
device, by which the shutter is controlled, is shown in this view, and
in Fig. 2 it is shown in detail.
The chamber was made as follows: A section of 9-in. steel pipe was cut
to a length of 11¹⁄₂ in. and threaded on the ends to fit pipe caps.
The forward pipe cap was chucked up in a lathe and the center portion
cut away, to provide an exposure opening and a shoulder at the rim,
on which the plate-glass window rests. A graphite paint was applied
to the rim, then the glass was bedded solidly in it, and a rubber
gasket was fitted to the joint, making it waterproof when the cap was
drawn up tightly. The chamber assembled and in detail is shown in the
illustration.
Holes were bored into the top of the chamber, and eyebolts were
fitted into them. Between the eyebolts a hole was bored and fitted
with a water-tight collar, through which the wires leading to the
shutter-control device pass. The chamber is supported by the wires,
which are fixed to the eyebolts and secured at the base of operations
by the photographer.
A support for the camera was provided by bending a strip of ¹⁄₈ by
1-in. band iron to the shape indicated in Fig. 1, at A, and riveting
it to the bottom of the chamber. Its upper surface is flat and was
bored and threaded to fit the tripod thumbscrew B, on the lower surface
of the camera. The camera is arranged on the support and clamped
into place firmly by the thumb nut, as it might be on a tripod. The
adjustment of the camera in the chamber is done from the rear, and the
space beneath the thumbscrew should be large enough to make access
easy. A camera of the size indicated, when fitted with its lens
centering on the center of the window, will be raised sufficiently
for convenience in clamping it. The threads on the back cap must fit
snugly and no paint must be used on them. Hard oil, or vaseline, may be
applied to insure a water-tight joint that permits easy removal of the
cap.
The making and adjustment of the electrical shutter device requires
care, but its operation is simple. An electromagnet, of the type used
on doorbells, was fixed to the front of the camera, above the shutter,
as shown in Fig. 1, and in detail in Fig. 2. It is actuated by current
from two dry cells. The latter are kept in a convenient carrier at the
base of operations, and are connected to the magnet by a single strand
of double, waterproof wire. This is spread as it reaches the chamber
and fastened to the two eyebolts in the top. The ends of the wires are
conducted through the water-tight center opening between the eyebolts,
and attached to the magnet. The release lever is fitted to a steel
hook, pivoted at its upper end with a small nail, C, Fig. 2. A rubber
band is fixed to the lower edge of the shutter lever and its other end
is attached to the front of the camera. When the current is permitted
to flow into the magnet by pressing a contact key, in the hand of the
operator, the steel hook is drawn from the release lever, and the
rubber band draws the lever down, making an exposure.
The double-wire cable carries the current as well as holds the chamber
suspended in the water. The wire should be about 25 ft. long, and,
in transporting the outfit, or when only partly used, is coiled. The
chamber should be completed for picture-taking operations by giving it
a coat of dull, black waterproof paint, both inside and outside. This
will prevent rusting and also serves to make the object inconspicuous
when in the water. It is important that the interior be painted in
this manner, because reflections of light within the chamber may
cause difficulty in obtaining satisfactory results. When the paint is
thoroughly dry, the device may be tested for leakage and assembled
ready for a test before making an actual trial in the water. The camera
is fitted into the chamber so that it centers on the center of the
plate-glass window, and is clamped into place. If the electrical device
operates satisfactorily the plate may be inserted, the plate-holder
slide withdrawn, the back cap replaced securely, and the outfit lowered
into the water. It should be watched carefully until it reaches
the proper depth, for, if it is permitted to touch the bottom, the
sediment stirred up must be given time to settle before an exposure
is made. The forward end of the chamber should be marked on its
upper edge with a streak of white paint, to aid in identifying it at
considerable depth in the water. This is important, since the operator
must shift the chamber carefully until the window faces the objects to
be photographed. When the chamber is in position, the contact key is
pressed and the exposure is made.
The time of exposure for under-water photography depends on the
clearness of the water, the depth at which the pictures are to be
taken, and the light conditions on the surface. A bright day is, of
course, desirable for this class of photography. A safe approximation
on a sunny day, in clear water, and with the chamber lowered to a depth
of 20 ft., is ¹⁄₂₅ sec. at the F 8 stop. The fastest plates or films
obtainable should be used for this work, making possible a fairly rapid
shutter speed. This tends to overcome the movement of the subject and
possible movement of the camera.
The camera should be focused while in the chamber in order that the
plate glass may not disturb the focus. The glass usually changes the
focal length of the lens slightly, hence this precaution must be taken.
The camera should be focused in the chamber for a distance of 10 ft.,
as this is the average at which under-water photographs will be taken
ordinarily.
When attempting under-water photography in cloudy waters, or at a
considerable depth, the necessary illumination may be provided by
a charge of flash-light powder. For this purpose another submarine
chamber, similar to that used for the camera, should be provided,
with a plate glass, ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and a valve fitted into the top of
the chamber, and opening outward, so that the gas may escape. Fifteen
grains of powder will suffice, and this should be set off by a small
electrical fuse connected to the current supply.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
Photographing Subjects under Water Is a Fascinating Diversion, and Each
Exposure Has an Element of Mystery in the Uncertainty of the Result.
The Photograph Reproduced in the Oval was Taken with the Outfit Shown.
The Construction of the Chamber is Shown at the Middle. Fig. 1 Shows a
Sectional Interior View, and Fig. 2, a Detail of the Electrical Shutter
Release]
Every pond, lake, and river abounds in interesting and instructive
subjects for submarine photography. Along the coast of Florida, and
at many points along the Pacific coast, are waters of such clearness
that pictures may be taken at a depth of nearly a hundred feet, without
the use of artificial illumination. These localities abound in objects
under water of great interest, such as shipwrecks. The fascinating
art of taking pictures under water does not make it necessary for one
to go to these places, for subjects are easily available. Whenever
the submarine chamber is raised from the water there is an element of
mystery involved, regarding what may be recorded on the plate or film,
and this is an attractive feature of the diversion.
The Magic of Numbers
BY JAMES L. LANYON
That there are a great many magic squares; that the numbers in these
squares are arranged according to a definite system; that squares
with very remarkable properties are easily constructed, are facts not
generally known.
Consider the magic square A of 16 numbers. Add up any four numbers
straight across, up and down, or diagonally--10 ways in all--and the
sum in each case will be 34. But that is not all: Take the four numbers
in any one quarter of the square, as for example, 15, 10, 4, and 5,
and the sum will be 34; or take the four central numbers, or the four
corner numbers, and the result will be the same. But even this does
not exhaust the magic of the square. Add any four numbers arranged
symmetrically around the center, as 3, 10, 8, and 13, or 10, 4, 7, and
13, and the result will also be 34. In fact, it is really not necessary
to have them arranged symmetrically, because it will be found that four
numbers arranged as are 6, 10, 11, and 7, or 1, 4, 16, and 13 will
produce the same magic number of 34.
There are two other combinations of the 16 numbers that will give the
same result. They are shown at B and C. In fact the second one, B, not
only exhibits some of the former combinations, but also includes such
sets of four as 14, 5, 3, and 12, or 15, 8, 2, and 9, which places to
the credit of this square numerous combinations. Such special features
as this simply add another element of mystery and interest. Thus, while
the square B has these two combinations exclusively to its credit, the
first, A, and the third, C, have such special arrangements as 5, 16, 1,
and 12, or 15, 6, 11, and 2. Also 10, 3, 5, and 16, or 4, 5, 14, and
11, making the total number of such combinations for the first square
34.
Magic squares of 25 numbers also have remarkable properties. Examine
the square D and note the many possible combinations graphically set
forth in the small diagrams. Not only do any five numbers in a row
or along a diagonal make 65, but almost any four arranged around the
center, with the center number 13 added, will give the same result.
This square is a good example by which to illustrate one of the
methods of construction of these interesting devices. Thus, place
1 in the middle square of the top row, and then write the numbers
down consecutively, always working in the direction of the arrows as
indicated. When any number falls outside, as number 2 does at the
start, drop down to the extreme square in the next row and insert the
number there, as was done in this case. It will be observed that 4
falls outside, and so it is moved to the proper square as suggested,
which will be at the extreme left of the next row above. Continuing,
it is found that at 6 it is necessary to drop down one square and
continue in the direction of the arrows. At 9 it is necessary to drop
down to the proper extreme square as shown. The next number, 10, must
again be provided for at the square on the left of the next higher row.
The square ahead being already filled, 11 is placed below; after this
there is “clear sailing” for a time. In this manner magic squares with
seven or nine numbers to the side may be made easily. When puzzles and
catch problems are under discussion, it is always mystifying to take
one’s pencil and quickly make out a magic square according to this
easily remembered method. The small diagrams at D suggest some of the
combinations.
Another method of constructing a square of 25 numbers diagonally
is shown at E. Place the outside numbers in the open spaces at the
opposite side of the square, maintaining the same triangular relation,
which results in the arrangement shown at F. While this combination
is entirely different from the previous one, it exhibits the same
mysterious properties.
[Illustration:
+---+---+---+---+
| 15| 10| 3 | 6 |
+---+---+---+---+
| 4 | 5 | 16| 9 |
+---+---+---+---+
| 14| 11| 2 | 7 |
+---+---+---+---+
| 1 | 8 | 13| 12|
+---+---+---+---+
A
+---+---+---+---+
| 1 | 15| 14| 4 |
+---+---+---+---+
| 12| 6 | 7 | 9 |
+---+---+---+---+
| 8 | 10| 11| 5 |
+---+---+---+---+
| 13| 3 | 2 | 16|
+---+---+---+---+
B
+---+---+---+---+
| 9 | 7 | 14| 4 |
+---+---+---+---+
| 6 | 12| 1 | 15|
+---+---+---+---+
| 3 | 13| 8 | 10|
+---+---+---+---+
| 16| 2 | 11| 5 |
+---+---+---+---+
C
+---+---+---+---+---+
| 17| 24| 1 | 8 | 15|
+---+---+---+---+---+
| 23| 5 | 7 | 14| 16|
+---+---+---+---+---+
| 4 | 6 | 13| 20| 22|
+---+---+---+---+---+
| 10| 12| 19| 21| 3 |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| 11| 18| 25| 2 | 9 |
+---+---+---+---+---+
4 COMBINATIONS
6 COMBINATIONS
D
+---+
| 1 |
+---+---+---+
| 6 | | 2 |
+===+===+===+===+===+
‖ 11| | 7 | | 3 ‖
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
| 16‖ | 12| | 8 | ‖ 4 |
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
| 21| ‖ 17| | 13| | 9 ‖ | 5 |
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
| 22‖ | 18| | 14| ‖ 10|
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
‖ 23| | 19| | 15‖
+===+===+===+===+===+
| 24| | 20|
+---+---+---+
| 25|
+---+
E
+---+---+---+---+---+
| 11| 24| 7 | 20| 3 |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| 4 | 12| 25| 8 | 16|
+---+---+---+---+---+
| 17| 5 | 13| 21| 9 |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| 10| 18| 1 | 14| 22|
+---+---+---+---+---+
| 23| 6 | 19| 2 | 15|
+---+---+---+---+---+
F
+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+
‖ 4 | 25| 18| 11| 7 ‖ 11| 24| 2 | 20| 8 ‖ 17| 6 | 5 | 23| 14‖
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
‖ 14| 20| 2 | 17| 12‖ 9 | 12| 25| 3 | 16‖ 3 | 24| 12| 16| 10‖
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
‖ 5 | 10| 13| 16| 21‖ 17| 10| 13| 21| 4 ‖ 11| 20| 8 | 4 | 22‖
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
‖ 23| 9 | 24| 6 | 3 ‖ 5 | 18| 6 | 14| 22‖ 9 | 2 | 21| 15| 18‖
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
‖ 19| 1 | 8 | 15| 22‖ 23| 1 | 19| 7 | 15‖ 25| 13| 19| 7 | 1 ‖
+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+===+
G
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
| 30| 39| 48| 1 | 10| 19| 28|
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
| 38| 47| 7 | 9 | 18| 27| 29|
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
| 46| 6 | 8 | 17| 26| 35| 37|
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
| 5 | 14| 16| 25| 34| 36| 45|
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
| 13| 15| 24| 33| 42| 44| 4 |
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
| 21| 23| 32| 41| 43| 3 | 12|
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
| 22| 31| 40| 49| 2 | 11| 20|
+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+
H
The Magic Squares Shown Afford Much Interest to the Experimenter in
Such Devices: The Mastery of the Principle Underlying Some of Them will
Enable One to Mystify and Interest Onlookers, with Little Chance of the
Simple Method being Discovered]
Although they do not contain quite so many combinations, the three
magic squares shown at G all add up to this same magic number of
65, straight across, diagonally, and many other ways. A square with
seven numbers to the side, worked out according to the first method
described, is illustrated at H. The magic number here is 175. Since the
general principle is similar to that involved in the squares described
in detail, the working out of the numerous combinations of the squares
shown at G and H will be left to the interested experimenter.
Muffling the Ticking of a Watch or Clock
When a watch is used on a table in the sick room, the ticking may be
eliminated by placing an ordinary tumbler over the watch. The face may
be seen readily. A large glass vessel, or transparent jar, may be used
in the same way to cover a small clock.--L. E. Turner, Jamaica, N. Y.
* * * * *
¶To letter on prepared cloth, use colors ground in japan and thin the
mixture with gasoline to the consistency of cream.
A Simple Cipher Code
Adapted for Use in Private Correspondence
BY CAPT. W. H. WALDRON, U. S. ARMY
Have you ever needed a secret code in which to couch the contents of
a message intended for the eyes of one person alone? If you have, you
will remember the difficulties that were experienced in making up the
code and enciphering your letter. Here is a cipher code that may be
mastered in a few minutes; one that is most difficult to decipher by
any person other than those having the key words, and that is very
simple when once understood.
[Illustration:
+---+---+---+---+---+
| G | R | A | N | T |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| | | | | |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| F | IJ| E | L | D |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| | | | | |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| | | | | |
+---+---+---+---+---+
FIG. 1
+---+---+---+---+---+
| G | R | A | N | T |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| B | C | H | K | M |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| F | IJ| E | L | D |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| O | P | Q | S | U |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| V | W | X | Y | Z |
+---+---+---+---+---+
FIG. 2
+---+---+---+---+---+
| C | H | A | IJ| R |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| B | D | E | F | G |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| K | L | M | Q | S |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| O | P | T | U | N |
+---+---+---+---+---+
| V | W | X | Y | Z |
+---+---+---+---+---+
FIG. 3
The Cipher Code Illustrated in These Diagrams may be Adapted for Wide
Uses by the Substitution of Appropriate Key Words for Those Shown]
It is commonly known as the “Play Fair” code and is in use in some
of the foreign military services. It is a substitutive cipher which
operates with one or more key words, two letters in the code being
substituted for each two letters in the text of the message. In
preparing the cipher code by this method the key words are selected by
the correspondents and their location in the cipher square mutually
agreed upon. A large square divided into 25 smaller squares is drawn,
as shown in Fig. 1, and the letters of the key words entered into their
proper spaces, the remaining spaces being filled by other letters of
the alphabet. The key words must not contain duplicate letters. The
letters I and J are considered as one and entered in the same space,
the letter I being invariably used in enciphering.
Suppose that the two words “grant” and “field” have been selected for
the key, the same to be entered respectively in the spaces on the
first and third horizontal lines of the square. Then the basis of the
construction would be as indicated in Fig. 1. Now fill in the remaining
fifteen spaces of the square with other letters of the alphabet,
beginning at the blank space at the left of the second line, entering
the letters in rotation and not using any letter of the key words. The
completed cipher would then appear as shown in Fig. 2.
The text of the message to be sent is then divided into groups of two
letters each and the equivalent substituted for each pair. Where two
like letters fall in the same pair the letter X is inserted between
them and when the message is deciphered this additional letter is
disregarded. If one letter is left over after the last pair, simply add
an X to it and make a pair.
Suppose it is desired to send this message in the cipher: “Will you
meet me as agreed.” Having three pairs of the same letter, it will be
necessary to break them up by placing the letter X between them. The
message will then be paired off as follows:
WI LX LY OU ME XE TM EA SA GR EX ED
The message may now be enciphered, after considering three simple rules
for guidance: Every pair of letters in the square must be either in the
same vertical line; in the same horizontal line; or at the diagonally
opposite corners of a rectangle formed by the smaller squares within
the large square.
In the first case, R and P are in the same vertical line (the second),
and the next letter below, in each case, is substituted for R and P,
which are C and W. If the pair consists of K and Y (fourth vertical),
substitute L for K and go to the first horizontal line (fourth
vertical) for Y, substituting N for Y. In the second case B and H are
in the same horizontal line (the second), and thus substitute the next
letters to the right, which are C and K. If the pair consists of P
and U (fourth horizontal), substitute Q for P and then go back to the
first vertical line (fourth horizontal) and substitute O for U. In the
third case, R and S are at the opposite corners of a rectangle. Each
letter of the pair is substituted by the letter in the other corner
of the rectangle on the same horizontal line with it. Then R would
be represented by N, and S would be represented by P. To illustrate
further, NE would be represented by AL; BZ would be represented by MV;
TP by RU.
The message may now be enciphered, applying the rules:
WI LX LY OU ME XE TM EA SA GR EX ED
RP EY SN PO HD AQ MD QH QN RA QA LF
In sending this message, to make it more difficult for the inquisitive
cipher expert, divide the substituted letters into words of five each
and give him the added task of determining whether the cipher used is
the transposition or the substitution method. The message ready to hand
to the telegrapher would read:
RPEYS NPOHD AQMDQ HQNRA QALFX
In deciphering a message the method is reversed. Take the message
as received, divide the letters into pairs, and disregard the final
X, which was put in to make a five-letter word. Then apply the key
reversed. Practice it on the above message to get the system with
respect to letters occurring at the end of the lines. Where the letters
of a pair are in the same vertical line, substitute for each the
letter above; where they are in the same horizontal line, substitute
the letter to the left; where they are in the corners of a rectangle,
substitute the letters at the opposite corners on the same horizontal
line. To test the understanding of the system, the message given in
Fig. 3, with the key words “chair” in the first horizontal line and
“optun” in the fourth line, may be deciphered. The message to be
deciphered is as follows:
FQVUO IRTEF HRWDG APARQ TMMZM RBFVU
PICXM TRMXM AGEPA DONFC BAXAX.
Cheese Grater and Ash Tray Made from a Tin Can
[Illustration: Necessity Resulted in the Making of a Cheese Grater and
Ash Tray from a Tin Can]
Being in need of a cheese grater and finding it inconvenient to go many
miles to town, I constructed a satisfactory makeshift. I took a heavily
tinned can and cut it in two, as shown in the sketch. By punching
holes through it from the inside a practical grater resulted. From the
remaining half of the can I made an ash tray, as shown at the right of
the sketch. The semicircular ends were bent over to form a rest, and by
cutting portions at the sides and bending them in, a convenient rest
for a pipe or cigar was afforded.--Gus Hansen, Peachland, B. C., Canada.
An Improvised Typewriter Desk
[Illustration: Remove the Drawer and Replace It Inverted, to Provide a
Convenient Rest for the Typewriter]
Travelers and others who carry typewriters on their journeys
frequently find it inconvenient to use the tables provided because
they are usually too high for typewriters. A method of overcoming this
difficulty is to withdraw the drawer from the table and invert it in
the slide as shown. The typewriter may then be placed upon the bottom
of the drawer and will be considerably lower than if placed upon the
table top.
An Inexpensive Imitation Fire
[Illustration]
Window decorations may frequently be made attractive by the use of
an imitation fire in a stove or a fireplace, when an indoor setting
is on display. To produce such an effect, put an electric fan below
the place at which the imitation fire is to be arranged and run an
electric-light cord, with a red globe attached to it, to the center of
the “flame.” Cut a number of strips of Indian red tissue paper and fix
the lower ends of these to form a circular mass above the globe. When
the light is turned on permit the fan to direct a stream of air against
the tissue-paper ribbons, forcing them upward to appear like tongues
of flame. The sketch shows this method applied to a heater. The fan is
placed in the ash box and the electric light is conducted through the
grate.
Jardinière Made of Metal-Lamp Body
[Illustration]
Some of the metal bodies of old lamps, and they are usually brass, are
of such ample size and so neatly embossed that they can be readily used
as jardinières instead of being handed to the junk man. It is only
necessary to remove the lamp part, and set the plant pot into the bowl
of the stand, as shown in the sketch.--H. N. Wolfe, Chicago, Ill.
Replacing a Broken Coffeepot Knob
A knob was broken from the lid of a coffeepot, which was valued by
reason of its associations. Attempts to fasten the broken portions
together were unsatisfactory, and the rough surface, where the
earthenware was broken, was ground smooth and fitted with a carefully
shaped wooden knob. A hole was drilled through the center of the lid
with an old file and the wooden knob bolted into place. When stained
appropriately, the repair was quite satisfactory.
Homemade Magnesium Printer
[Illustration: Length of Magnesium Ribbon Burned Determines the Time of
Exposure]
A convenient homemade printing device consists of a smooth board, A,
2 ft. long and 1 ft. wide, and an upright, B, which is 1 ft. square.
Bore a hole in the center of the upright for the small tin holder E,
to carry the magnesium ribbon, made by folding a piece of tin to fit
it. Small pieces of wood, CC, are nailed across the board to hold the
ground glass D and the printing frame G. The ground glass is 10 in.
from the upright, and the printing frame is 10 in. from the ground
glass. The latter is 1 ft. square and is used to diffuse the light
from the magnesium ribbon F, which may be purchased from any dealer in
photographic supplies. The length of exposure varies according to the
length of ribbon which is permitted to burn. This should be tested out
carefully before making exposures.--Gustave Straub, Albany, N. Y.
* * * * *
¶In sandpapering a varnished surface between coats, especial care
should be taken to avoid rubbing through at sharp edges.
[Illustration]
Garden Plow Made of Pick-Up Material
BY T. T. STURGEON
The labor of spading a garden of even moderate size is sufficient to
warrant the person who undertakes the job in making a hand plow like
that shown in the illustration, for it will serve many years, with
reasonable care. I made one worth about $5 at an outlay of 25 cents,
gathering the necessary wood and metal from among old machine parts and
pick-up material.
An old wheelbarrow provided the 16-in. wheel. The handles were made
from a ⁷⁄₈ by 4-in. strip of spruce, 5 ft. long. They were marked on
the strip so that one of the curved grips was at each end, on opposite
edges. The curved parts of the grips were cut with a keyhole saw, and
when a kerf long enough to admit a large ripsaw was cut, the board was
ripped into the two handles. They were smoothed and the grips trimmed
with a sharp knife. A section of broomstick was cut for the upper
brace. The lower one is made of a strip of iron, ¹⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ by 12 in.,
drilled for ¹⁄₄-in. bolts, and bent at right angles, 1¹⁄₂ in. from each
end. Drill a ¹⁄₄-in. hole at the middle, to engage a bolt on which the
vertical strip is supported, and adjusted to the operator, as shown in
Fig. 1.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 4
FIG. 2
FIG. 5
FIG. 3
This Hand Garden Plow was Made of Old Material, a Shovel being Used for
the Making of the Moldboard]
Cut a strip, ¹⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ by 18 in., for the vertical support, shown in
Fig. 5. Drill four ¹⁄₄-in. adjusting holes, 1 in. apart, at the upper
end, and three ¹⁄₄-in. holes at the lower end for fastening the strip
to the moldboard, as shown in Fig. 3. Drill a ⁵⁄₁₆-in. hole at the
7¹⁄₂-in. mark, for bolting the strip to the braces, the other ends of
which are fitted on the ³⁄₈ by 10-in. bolt used as an axle. Cut the two
braces 14 in. long, of ¹⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄-in. strips, and drill a ³⁄₈-in. hole
in the forward end of each, to fit the axle, and a ⁵⁄₁₆-in. hole in
the opposite ends, 1 in. from the ends in each case. Cut a strip, ¹⁄₈
by ³⁄₄ by 12 in., for the landside, as shown in Fig. 2, bent under the
moldboard, and bolted to it. The proper angle can best be bent after
the moldboard is made and fitted.
The method of marking the shape of the moldboard on the blade of an
old shovel is shown in Fig. 4. Make a pattern of cardboard, marking
it into 1-in. squares. Draw the shape of the moldboard by tracing the
outline through the corresponding squares, using the diagram as a
guide. Mark the position of the bolt holes, for fastening it to the
vertical support, indicated by the dash lines at the right. Cut out
the pattern and trace around it on the shovel, using the thickest part
for the point of the share. Cut out the outline, smooth the edges, and
point up the cutting edge. Drill holes for fastening the moldboard to
the vertical strap with ¹⁄₄-in. bolts, and for the fastenings to the
landside, with ³⁄₁₆-in. bolts.
Curve the moldboard into shape and fit it to the various supports so
that it sits properly, as shown in Fig. 1, seen from the furrow side,
in Fig. 2, from the rear, and in Fig. 3, from the land side. Bend the
12-in. strip into shape, as shown in Fig. 3, and bolt it into place, to
form the landside. Assemble the parts, being careful that the wheel and
landside are set in line, as shown in Fig. 2, and that the rear edge of
the latter is raised slightly, as in Fig. 3. The plow should be given a
coat of paint, and the cutting parts made smooth, and oiled.
An Interesting Water Telescope
[Illustration]
A water telescope is easy to make and will afford much pleasure in
exploring plant or animal life in comparatively shallow water. The
device is made by fitting a heavy glass disk into the end of a round
metal tube, about 2 in. in diameter. The glass is fitted between two
rings of metal, preferably with a small flange set against the glass.
A waterproof cement is used to fix the glass between the rings. To use
the “telescope,” rest it on the side of a boat or other convenient
place at the water, and set the lower end, containing the glass, under
the water. Remarkably clear views may be had in this way.--S. Leonard
Bastin, Bournemouth, England.
Writing on a Moving Train
Writing legibly on a fast-moving train is difficult to a person
unaccustomed to it. The railroad conductor knows the trick of it
and manages to get along quite satisfactorily. He prefers to write
in a standing position and holds his right elbow firmly against his
side. The reason for this is that in a sitting posture there is too
much lateral movement in the trunk of the body, while in a standing
position this is more easily controlled. When the arm swings freely,
as in ordinary writing, several joints of the body are affected in the
process, each of which is capable of its own motion. Holding the elbow
against one’s ribs “breaks” these motion tendencies, except that of the
wrist, which movement is necessary in writing, and thus the pencil, or
pen, is more easily controlled.
The same principles modified apply in using a typewriter on a moving
train. Many traveling men, news correspondents, and others, carry
portable typewriters and do much of their writing while traveling on
trains, not to mention the various railroad and government men who
travel in office cars and necessarily must get out their correspondence
en route. It is extremely difficult to execute neat typewriting
on a moving train with free-arm movement, even though the central
portion of the car where the vibration and swing is less severe, is
selected. As I am employed in such capacity, I had to evolve some
plan to expedite the work. I am able to do typewriting quite rapidly
by resting the palm of the hands, near the wrists, against the front
edge of the typewriter frame surrounding the keyboard, and using the
swing of the fingers instead of that of the whole arm, as in ordinary
typewriting.--Victor Labadie. Dallas, Tex.
A Revolving Window Display
[Illustration]
A jeweler attracted passers-by and not a few customers by placing a
revolving display in his window which was kept in motion by means
of the arrangement shown in the sketch. A 10-in. cut-glass bowl was
placed, upside down, near the front of the show window. An inverted
tumbler was set upon it and a small tin box was pivoted on the
tumbler by means of a needle soldered inside of it. Six arms of wire
were soldered to the box, and watches were suspended from them. The
carefully balanced frame revolved easily on the point of the needle. It
was kept in motion by the draft from a fan hidden behind a mirror.--H.
S. Hart, Shreveport, La.
A Horse-Drawn Sod Cutter
The cutting of a considerable area of sod is tedious work when done by
hand, and it is difficult to make the sections of uniform thickness
and size. These important features are provided for by the use of the
homemade sod cutter shown in the sketch. To start a cut across a meadow
or lot, a notch is cut in the turf for the blade, and the device is set
into place, stamping it down to give a good start. The operator stands
on the plank in front of the blade, and a little practice will soon
determine the best position for ease in operation. When a cut has been
completed, the cutter is dragged to a fresh starting place, the driver
turning it over on the upper side. The strips are cut into suitable
lengths and piled conveniently for removal with a stone boat or wagon.
[Illustration: With This Device Sod may be Cut Quickly and of Uniform
Width and Thickness]
The device may be made of any suitable width; 15 in. between the inner
edges of the blade, and the latter set to cut a depth of about 2¹⁄₂
in., being desirable. The board is a 2-in. plank, about 4 ft. long. The
blade should be set with the cutting edge slanting slightly downward
so as to make the device “bite” into the ground. A smaller cutter may
be made for use by boys, several of whom may draw it.--F. H. Sweet,
Waynesboro, Va.
A Match-Box Trick
[Illustration]
All that is required to perform this trick is a box of safety matches.
Four matches are removed and three of them arranged as shown in the
sketch. The performer then tells his friends that he will light the
fourth match and set the cross match on fire in the center, then asks
which match of the standing ones will light first. Most persons will
not stop to think and guess either one or the other. As a matter of
fact, after the cross match is set on fire it soon burns the wood away,
and the pressure of the two side matches will cause it to spring out
so that neither catches fire.--Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, North
Dartmouth, Massachusetts.
Cutting Glass Bottle with Electricity
[Illustration]
Performing an experiment in a laboratory, it became necessary to have
some apparatus which we did not possess at the time. A bell jar could
have been used, but this we did not have, and as a substitute we used
a large glass bottle, 8 in. in diameter, with the bottom removed.
In order to do this, we first made a mark around the outside of the
bottle near the bottom with a glass cutter. A piece of copper wire,
¹⁄₃₂ in. in diameter, was then wound around the outside on the mark and
connected to the circuit.
As the wire would expand enough to make it slip off the bottle when
heated red-hot, pliers were used to keep it taut about the bottle when
the current was turned on. A current of 110 volts and 5 amperes was
run through the wire, heating it red-hot, and this cracked the glass
exactly on the line marked by the glass cutter.--Contributed by R. E.
Hollis, Chicago, Ill.
Nail Cabinet with Muffin-Pan Trays
Muffin-pan trays used by the housewife in baking make serviceable
containers for nails, screws, and other small articles used in a shop.
The illustration shows the pans fitted into a box, and sliding in
grooves cut into the sides with a saw.
[Illustration: The Metal Trays Are Substantial and may be Removed
Readily for Use Elsewhere]
The box is made with the end pieces lapping over the top and the bottom
this being a better construction to carry the weight of the trays. The
wood used in the sides is ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, in order that a saw cut may
be made to a depth of ¹⁄₄ in. without weakening the support. Thinner
wood may be used if instead of saw cuts small strips of wood are nailed
against the side on which the trays may slide.--Contributed by Harry J.
Blacklidge, San Rafael, Cal.
Waterproofing Matches
Dipping ordinary parlor matches into melted paraffin and permitting
them to dry thoroughly will enable them to withstand water. The
paraffin acts like a wax candle and is unaffected by the moisture. This
should be of aid to campers and others who find it hard to keep matches
dry.--Contributed by T. W. Lambert, Jr., New York, N. Y.
[Illustration: Homemade Electric Locomotive Model and Track System
BY A. E. ANDREW
PART I--The Motor]
The electric locomotive described may be constructed by boys having
average mechanical ability and the necessary tools. However, in any
piece of mechanical construction care must be taken to follow the
instructions. The material required is inexpensive, and the pleasure
derived from such a toy is well worth the time used in its construction.
The making of the outfit may be divided into three parts, the first of
which is the motor; second, the truck which is to carry the motor and
the body of the car, and third, the track system upon which the engine
is to operate. A side view of the locomotive is shown in Fig. 1.
The motor is of the series type, having its field and armature
terminals connected to the source of electrical energy through a
special reversing switch. By this means the rotation of the armature
may be reversed to make the locomotive travel forward or backward. The
armature and field are constructed of sheet-iron stampings, riveted
together.
The detailed construction of the armature and its dimensions are shown
in Fig. 2. The shaft upon which the armature core and commutator are
to be rigidly mounted is made of a piece of steel rod, ⁷⁄₃₂ in. in
diameter. A portion of this rod, 2¹⁄₄ in. long, is threaded with a fine
thread, and two small brass, or iron, nuts are provided to fit it. The
ends of the rod are turned down to a diameter of ¹⁄₈ in. for a distance
of ¹⁄₈ in. These are to fit in the bearings that are to be made later.
Cut from thin sheet iron a sufficient number of disks, 1¹⁄₈ in. in
diameter, to make a pile exactly ⁵⁄₈ in. thick when they are securely
clamped together. Drill a hole in the center of each of these disks, of
such a size that they will slip on the shaft snugly. Remove the rough
edges from the disks and see that they are flat. Cut two disks of the
same size, from a piece of ¹⁄₁₆-in spring brass, and drill a hole in
the center of each, so that they will slip on the shaft. Place all
these disks on the shaft, with the brass ones on the outside, and draw
them up tightly with the nuts provided. Be sure to get the laminated
core in the proper position on the shaft by observing the dimensions
given in the illustration, Fig. 2.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
Side View of a Locomotive Designed to be Operated with Either End
Forward]
After the disks have been fastened, clamp the shaft in the chuck of
a lathe and turn down the edges of all the disks so that they form a
smooth cylinder, 1¹⁄₁₆ in. in diameter. Draw a circle on the side of
one of the brass disks, ³⁄₃₂ in. from the edge, while the shaft is held
in the chuck. Divide this circle into eight equal parts and make a
center-punch mark at each division. Drill eight holes through the core
lengthwise with a ³⁄₁₆-in. drill. If the centers of the holes have been
properly located, all the metal on the outside will be cut away, as
shown in the end view, at the right in Fig. 2. The width of the gaps,
F, G, H, etc., thus formed, should be about ¹⁄₁₆ in. Smooth off all the
edges with a fine file after the holes are drilled.
A cross-sectional view of the commutator is shown at the extreme left,
Fig. 2. It is constructed as follows: Take a rod of copper or brass,
⁷⁄₈ in. diameter, and 1¹⁄₄ in. long; clamp one end in the chuck of a
lathe. Turn the other end down to a diameter of ³⁄₄ in., and drill a
¹⁄₂-in. hole through it at the center. Cut away the metal from the end
to form a disklike recess.
Cut off a disk, ⁵⁄₁₆ in. thick, measuring from the finished end, from
the piece of stock. Place this disk in a chuck, with the unfinished
end exposed, and cut away the metal in a dish form, as shown at B. Cut
small slots, into which the ends of the wires used in winding are to be
soldered, as shown at 1, 2, 3, etc., in the right-hand view of Fig. 2.
Obtain two brass nuts, about ¹⁄₄ in. in thickness, and turn their edges
down so that they correspond in form to those shown at C and D. Divide
the disk ring, just made, into eight equal parts, by lines drawn across
it through the center. Cut eight slots at these points, in the rim of
the disk. These cuts should be through the rim. Fill each of the slots
with a piece of mica insulation.
[Illustration: FIG. 2
FIG. 3
How the Armature Core is Made of Soft-Iron Disks for the Lamination,
at the Left. Diagram for the Winding of the Armature Coils and Their
Connection to the Commutator, at the Right]
Place one of the nuts on the shaft and then a washer of mica insulation
shown by the heavy lines, near A and B; then the ring, a second piece
of mica, and last the nut, C. The latter should be drawn up tightly, so
that the insulation in the slots in the disk are opposite the drilled
slots in the armature core, as shown in the right-hand view of Fig. 2.
After the disk has been fastened securely, test it to learn whether it
is insulated from the shaft. This is done by means of a battery and
bell, connected in series, one terminal of the circuit being connected
to the disk, and the other to the shaft. If the bell rings when these
connections are made, the ring and shaft are not insulated. The disk
must then be remounted, using new washers of mica insulation. Mica is
used because of its ability to withstand a higher degree of heat than
most other forms of insulation.
Each of the eight segments of the dished disk should be insulated from
the others. Make a test to see if the adjacent commutator segments
are insulated from each other, and also from the shaft. If the test
indicates that any segment is electrically connected to another, or to
the shaft, the commutator must be dismantled, and the trouble corrected.
The armature is now ready to be wound. Procure ¹⁄₈ lb. of No. 26
gauge insulated copper wire. Insulate the shaft, at E, with several
turns of thin cloth insulation, and also insulate similarly the nuts
holding the armature core and the inside nut holding the commutator.
Cut several pieces from the cloth insulation, wide enough to cover the
walls of the slots in the core, and long enough to extend at least ¹⁄₁₆
in. beyond the core at the ends. Insulate slots F and G thus, and wind
15 turns of the wire around the core lengthwise, passing the wire back
through the slot F, across the back end of the core, then toward the
front end through slot G, and back through F, and so on. About 2 in. of
free wire should be provided at each end of the coils.
In passing across the ends of the armature, all the turns are placed on
one side of the shaft, and so as to pass on the left side, the armature
being viewed from the commutator end. The second coil, which is wound
in the same grooves, is then passed on the right side, the third on the
left, and so on. After this coil is completed test it to see if it is
connected to the armature core. If such a condition is found, the coil
must be rewound. If the insulation is good, wind the second coil, which
is wound in the same slots, F and G, and composed of the same number of
turns. Insulate the slots H and J, and wind two coils of 15 turns each
in them, observing the same precautions as with the first two coils.
The fifth and sixth coils are placed in slots K and L, and the seventh
and eighth, in slots M and N.
The arrangement of the half coils, slots, and commutator segments is
given in detail in Fig. 3. Each coil is reduced to one turn in the
illustration, in order to simplify it. From an inspection of this
diagram it may be seen that the outside end of the second coil in the
upper row of figures, at the left end, is connected to the inside
end of the fourth coil at segment 1, in the lower row of figures,
representing the segments of the commutator. The outside end of the
fourth coil is connected with the inside end of the sixth coil, at
segment 2; the outside end of the sixth coil is connected with the
inside end of the eighth coil at segment 3; the outside end of the
eighth coil is connected to the inside end of the coil 1 at segment 4;
the outside end of the coil 1 is connected to the inside end of the
coil 3 at segment 5; the outside end of the third coil is connected
to the inside end of the fifth coil at segment 6; the outside end of
the fifth coil is connected to the inside end of the seventh coil at
segment 7; the outside end of the seventh coil is connected to the
inside end of the second coil at segment 8, and the outside end of the
second coil is connected to segment 1. completing the circuit.
[Illustration: FIG. 4
Pattern for the Field Stampings, Several Pieces being Used to make the
Desired Thickness]
In winding the coils on the core, their ends should be terminated close
to the commutator segments to which they are to be connected, in order
to simplify the end connections. After all the coils are wound and
properly tested, their ends may be connected as indicated. They are
then soldered into the slots in the ends of the commutator segments.
The completed winding is given a coating of shellac.
The dimensions and form of the field stampings are given in Fig. 4. A
number of these cut from thin sheet iron to make a pile ⁵⁄₈ in. thick
when clamped together is needed. The dimensions of the opening to carry
the armature should be a little less than that indicated in the sketch,
as it will be necessary to true it up after the stampings are fastened
together. Use one of the stampings as a pattern, and drill seven small
holes in each, as indicated by the letters O, P, Q, R, S, T, and U.
Fasten them together with small rivets, and true up the opening for
the armature to a diameter of 1¹⁄₈ in. Drill five ¹⁄₈-in. holes, as
indicated by the letters V, W, X, Y, and Z, to be used in mounting the
pieces, which are to form the armature bearings, brush supports, and
base of the motor.
[Illustration: FIG. 5
FIG. 6
Detail of the Field-Structure Supports, One Being for the Left Side and
the Other for the Right. The Supports are Shown in the Place at the
Right]
Cut two rectangular washers from a piece of thin fiber insulation, with
outside dimensions of 1¹⁄₈ in. and 1¹⁄₄ in., and an inside opening, ¹⁄₂
in. by ⁵⁄₈ in. Cut open these washers and slip them in position on the
portion of the field marked ZZ. Wrap two turns of the cloth insulation
about this part, which is to form the field core, and wind the space
full of No. 18 gauge enamel-insulated copper wire. Give the completed
winding a coat of shellac. The terminals of this winding should be
brought out through two holes drilled in one of the fiber washers, one
near the core and the other near the outer edge. It is better to have
the field terminals at the lower end of the part ZZ than at the upper
end.
[Illustration: FIG. 7
Detail of the Brush Holders, One Inch Long, with Holes as Shown]
Now cut two pieces from ¹⁄₁₆-in. sheet brass, similar to those shown in
Fig. 5. Place them on opposite sides of the laminated field structure,
shown in Fig. 4, and carefully mark the position of the holes, V, W,
X, Y, and Z, as indicated in Fig. 4, and drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes, where
the marks were made. Lay out and drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes, A, B, C, and
D, Fig. 5. Bend the upper portion of the pieces at right angles to
the lower portion, along the dotted lines E, and then bend the end of
the horizontal portions down along the dotted lines F, until they are
parallel with the main vertical parts of the pieces. The latter should
be bent so that one forms the left support and the other the right, as
shown in Fig. 6.
Bend the projections G and H at right angles to the vertical main
parts. The parts at the bottom are bent, one back along the dotted line
J and forward on the line K; the other forward on the line L and back
on the line M. The pieces are then mounted, on the side of the field
structure, as shown in Fig. 6. The supports are fastened in place with
five small bolts. The grooves N and O, in Fig. 5, are used in mounting
the motor on the axles of the truck. They will not be cut until after
the truck is constructed.
The brush holders are made of two pieces of hexagonal brass, each 1 in.
in length, having a ¹⁄₈-in. hole drilled in the end to a depth of ⁷⁄₈
in., and a threaded hole in the other end, for a small machine screw,
as shown in Fig. 7. Two holes are drilled and threaded in one side of
each of these pieces. These holders are to be mounted, by means of
screws, through the holes A, B, C, and D, Fig. 5. Each holder must be
insulated from its support. The distance of the holder from its support
should be such that the opening in its end is in the center of the
commutator. The brushes are made of very fine copper gauze, rolled to
form a rod. They are made long enough to extend about ¹⁄₂ in. into the
holder, when they are resting on the commutator. A small spiral spring
is placed in the holder, back of the end of the brush, and which will
serve to keep the latter in contact with the commutator.
Temporary connections are made and the motor is tested with a six-volt
battery. The construction of the motor may be modified as to the length
of shaft, and other minor details, and may be used for other purposes
by fitting it with pulleys, a countershaft, or other transmission
devices.
Making String Solder
String solder of a size convenient for electrical work, or other
soldering, where only a small quantity is desired, may be made by
adapting a ladle for the purpose. Drill a small hole through the ladle
near its upper edge. Melt the solder and pour it through the small
hole, permitting it to fall on a slab of marble, slate, or stone. The
ladle must be moved in zigzag lines in order to prevent the string from
crossing and to make it possible to roll up the solder into rings of a
convenient size.--Contributed by L. E. Fetter, Portsmouth, N. H.
To Prevent Wire Coat Hook from Turning
[Illustration]
A good way to keep a common wire coat hook in an upright position is to
drive a small wire staple over the smaller hook. In public places, such
as halls, this will often prevent their removal and save considerable
annoyance.--Contributed by Harry L. Dixson, Chicago, Ill.
* * * * *
¶The second coat of varnish should never be put on until the first
has been “mossed” (rubbed) off; as, otherwise, it will not stick well.
Cement Grotto for an Aquarium
To build a small cement grotto for an aquarium, make a clay mold by
roughly excavating two right-angled gutters in a lump of clay. Grease,
or shellac, the mold after it is dry. Apply cement of about the
consistency of putty, or dough, filling the gutters roughly so as to
give a rocklike finish. Small shells can be stuck into the cement while
it is yet moist. Before entirely shaping the cement, a piece of heavy
wire is bent to conform to the shape of the grotto and set in for a
reinforcement.
[Illustration: Cement Grotto Roughly Molded over Clay, Shaped to Make
the Right Form]
Holes can be made by twisting paper, so that it will extend out at each
side, and laying cement over it. After the cement is thoroughly dry,
the paper can be removed in sections.
Lamp Wicks Cheaply Made
[Illustration: Cut the Hat into Halves and Then Cut It into Strips,
from Which the Wicks are Made]
Lamp wicks may be made cheaply at home from an old soft-felt hat. The
hat should first be brushed clean and the brim flattened by ironing
it. The greatest number of wicks may be obtained if the hat is cut
into halves with a pair of scissors, and then cut into strips of the
required size, as shown in the sketch. Soak the strips in vinegar for
two hours, dry them out of doors, if convenient, and they are ready for
use.--Contributed by George H. Holden.
Concrete Water Basin for Poultry
[Illustration: An Ordinary Washbasin was Used to Shape the Depression
in the Concrete]
A concrete worker was asked by a farmer to build a concrete basin for
watering the poultry. Having no forms at hand, the mechanic used an
ordinary washbasin and a wood box as shown in the illustration. The
basin was greased before it was placed in the concrete. The completed
concrete basin was buried with its upper surface level with the
ground.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Substitute for Ground Glass in Camera
The ground glass in my camera was broken while arranging to take a
picture of a party one evening, and being unable to obtain another, I
substituted a piece of white tissue paper drawn over a piece of plain
glass. It did the work so well on that occasion that I have used it
continuously since, and have found it better than the ground glass. It
produces superior definition in the views on the glass, especially when
working in a poor light, and in a good focusing screen.--Contributed by
C. W. Smalley, Des Moines, Ia.
Pencil Holder for Workbench
[Illustration]
Mechanics, and others who have occasion to use a pencil on a workbench
will appreciate the pencil holder shown in the sketch. It was made by
soldering the small brass ferrule into the bottom of a portion of a
brass knob, and weighting the knob with lead. The pencil will be held
in an upright position where it may be easily seen.--Contributed by R.
F. Hoffman, Chicago.
Repairing Burned-Out Incandescent Globes
Incandescent electric bulbs that have been burned out may be repaired
by shaking them, in order to cause the broken ends of the metal
filament to strike together. By examining the broken filament one can
determine in what direction to shake the globe. The sudden passage
of the current upon contact causes an arc at the broken ends of the
filament, welding them. A globe thus repaired should be placed in a
socket where it will not be given undue disturbance and will then last
for a considerable period.
[Illustration: Homemade Electric Locomotive Model and Track System
BY A. E. ANDREW
PART II--Construction of the Locomotive Truck and Cab]
Successful operation and construction that is feasible, yet of
a reasonable standard of workmanship, are the essentials of the
locomotive truck and cab described as the second feature of the
locomotive and track system under consideration. The materials
suggested are those found to be satisfactory, but substitutes may be
used if caution is observed. The completed locomotive is shown in Figs.
1 and 2. The outward aspect only is presented, and, for the sake of
clearness, the portions of the motor and driving rigging attached to
it, that project below the cab, are omitted, These parts are shown
assembled in Fig. 12, and in detail in the succeeding sketches.
The locomotive, apart from the motor, consists of two main portions,
the truck and the cab. Consideration will be given first to the
building of the truck and the fitting of the motor into it. The
mechanical and operative features are to be completed before beginning
work on the cab, which is merely a hood fixed into place with screws,
set into the wooden cab base.
Begin the construction with the wheels, shown in Fig. 3. Make the axles
of ¹⁄₈-in. round steel rod, cut 3³⁄₁₆ in. long.
Turn four wheels of ³⁄₈-in. brass. Drill a ¹⁄₈-in. hole in two of them
so that they may be forced on the slightly tapered ends of the axle.
Drill a ¹⁄₄-in. hole in each of the other wheels, and solder a collar,
A, Fig. 3, on the inside surfaces of them. Two fiber bushings, B,
should be provided to fit in the ¹⁄₄-in. openings in the wheels and to
fit tightly on the ends of the axles. This insulates the wheels on one
side of the truck from those on the other. If the rails forming the
track are insulated from each other, the current supplied to the motor
may pass in on one rail to the two insulated wheels, then to a brush,
which bears on the brass collar A, through the windings of the motor,
through the reversing switch to the other set of wheels, and back to
the source of energy over the other rail, as shown in Fig. 15.
The wheels of the truck should fit on the axles tightly, since no means
other than the friction will be employed in holding them in position.
If the ends of the axles are tapered slightly, the wheels may be forced
into place and will stay firmly. Do not force them on until the truck
is finally assembled.
The truck frame should be constructed next, and its details are shown
in Figs. 4 and 5. Make two sidepieces of ¹⁄₁₆-in. brass, 9³⁄₄ in. long
and 1⁵⁄₈ in. wide, cutting out portions, as shown, in order to reduce
the weight. This also gives the appearance of leaf springs.
The two rectangular openings are to accommodate the axle bearings. They
should be cut to precise dimensions, and their edges should be squared
off. Extensions, ¹⁄₁₆ in. wide, are provided at the middle of the upper
edges of each of these openings. They are to hold the upper end of the
coil springs, which are to rest in the holes cut into the bearings, as
shown at G, Fig. 7, and also in assembled form, Fig. 6.
Next drill four ¹⁄₈-in. holes in each of the sidepieces, as indicated
at the letters H₁ to H₄, Fig. 5. For the cross supports use four pieces
of brass rod, ¹⁄₄ in. square, and square off the ends to a length of
2³⁄₄ in. Drill holes in the center of the ends and tap them for ¹⁄₈-in.
machine screws. Join the side and crosspieces as shown in Fig. 4. Two
fiber washers about ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick should be placed on each axle at E
and F, to hold the wheels from contact with the sidepieces.
Details of a bearing for the axles are shown in Fig. 7. The hole G
carries the lower end of the coil spring, and the hole J is the bearing
socket for the axle. Four spiral springs, having an outside diameter of
¹⁄₈ in. and a length of ¹⁄₂ in. when extended, should be provided. The
extensions on the sides of the bearings fit against the inner faces of
the sides of the truck. They hold the bearings in position and prevent
them from falling out.
The base of the cab is made of wood, dimensioned as in Fig. 10. The
center of the piece is cut away so as to provide a space for the
motor, which extends above the upper edge of the truck, as shown in
Fig. 12. This block is fastened in place by four screws through the
upper crosspieces at the ends of the truck. The base should be made
and fitted into place temporarily so as to be available in observing
how the motor and its fittings are placed in relation to it. For
convenience in assembling the parts of the truck and setting the motor,
it may be removed readily.
Assembling the truck, including the motor, probably requires the most
painstaking effort of any part of the construction of the locomotive.
Too great care cannot be taken with it, as the dimensions are carefully
worked out and failure to observe them may cause errors sufficient to
make the locomotive unserviceable. Before undertaking this work it
would be well to examine carefully the arrangement of the parts as
shown in Fig. 12. The upper view shows the relation of the driving
gears in mesh, and the lower view shows the machinery of the truck as
seen from above.
The power from the motor is transmitted to one set of wheels by means
of a small gear on the armature shaft engaging an intermediate gear,
which in turn engages a large gear attached to the inside of one of the
truck wheels. The center of the armature shaft is 1⁵⁄₁₆ in. from the
center of the power axle, when both axles are in the slots provided in
the motor frame, Fig. 12. The gears for the transmission may now be
selected. The gear on the armature shaft should be as small, and that
on the axle as large, as practicable. The intermediate gear should be
of such a size that it will close the space between the small gear on
the armature shaft and the large one on the axle. Gears suitable for
the transmission may be purchased at a clock store for a small sum.
If gears of exactly the proper size cannot be obtained readily, the
position of the intermediate gear may be adjusted to produce a proper
meshing of the gears.
Mount the small gear on the end of the armature shaft away from the
commutator, so that there will be about ¹⁄₁₆-in. clearance between the
outside surface and the shoulder at the end of the shaft. Fit it on
tightly so that no other means of fastening will be necessary. Mount
the large gear on the inside surface of one of the truck wheels, as
shown in Figs. 3 and 12. Place the axle of the truck into the proper
grooves in the motor frame, and mark the position of the center of the
intermediate gear, when it engages the other gear. Drill a hole in the
extension on the motor frame, provided as a support, to fit a small
bolt with which the intermediate gear is fastened.
Place a washer between the gear and the piece upon which it is mounted,
and a locknut on the threaded end of the bolt, drawing it up so that
the gear has only sufficient play.
[Illustration: SIDE AND FRONT VIEW OF COMPLETED LOCOMOTIVE
FIG. 1
FIG. 2
CONSTRUCTION OF WHEELS
FIG. 3
SIDE OF TRUCK
FIG. 5
FIG. 4
FIG. 6
TOP AND SIDE VIEW OF BEARING
FIG. 7
FIG. 8
FIG. 9
FIG. 11
FIG. 10
BOTTOM OF LOCOMOTIVE CAB
Successful Operation Based on Feasible Construction and a Reasonable
Standard of Workmanship, Is the First Consideration in the Locomotive.
The Dimensions should be Observed Closely in Order That the Parts may
be Assembled Satisfactorily. The Construction of the Cab is Suggestive
Only, and the Inventive Builder may Design One in Conformity with the
Material Available or the Individual Taste]
The slots in the motor frame to fit the free axle may now be cut, as
shown in Fig. 12. Place the motor in position on the axle so that the
gears all mesh properly. Fit tubes of insulating material with an
outside diameter of ³⁄₈ in. at C and D, Fig. 3, and as also shown in
Fig. 12. Insulation tubes should be provided for the second axle so
as to hold the motor in position, and to keep the wheels in line. In
mounting the various parts sufficient play should be allowed to prevent
excessive friction.
[Illustration: Fig. 12, Installation of the Motor, Showing Gears and
Switch Contact Spring]
The reversing switch, which is to be mounted on the under side of the
motor frame, is shown in Figs. 13 and 14. It is provided with a control
lever which projects out from under the truck frame. A small movement
of the lever will produce the necessary changes in the connections.
The operation of the switch may be understood readily from the diagram
shown in Fig. 15. The moving element of the switch carries two pieces
of copper, E and F, which connect the four stationary pieces of copper,
A, B, C, and D, when the lever attached to E and F is moved to either
side of its central position. The pieces of copper which are moved--E
and F--are shown outside of the stationary pieces in Fig. 15 for
purposes of a diagram only, and are actually directly over the ring
formed by the stationary pieces.
[Illustration: Fig. 13, Details of the Switch, Shaded Portions Being of
Fiber Insulation]
The operation of the switch is as follows: Assuming that the current
enters at the terminal marked 1 and leaves at the terminal marked 2,
then the direction of the current in the armature and series field will
be as indicated in the diagrams. The direction of the current in the
series-field winding is different in the two cases, which will result
in opposite rotation of the armature.
The base of the switch is made of ¹⁄₁₆-in. fiber insulation; its
dimensions are shown in Fig. 13. It is to be mounted on the two pieces
projecting outward on the under side of the motor frame, as shown in
Fig. 14. Drill a small hole in each of these projections, as indicated
by the letters H₁ and H₂, and tap them to take a small machine screw.
Next drill two holes, H₁ and H₂, Fig. 13, in the piece of insulation,
with centers the same distance apart as those drilled in the
projections. One end of this piece of insulation is extended to form a
mounting for a thin brass spring, the ends of which bear on the brass
collars insulated from the axles, as shown in Figs. 12 and 13. The form
of this spring and the method of mounting it are also shown in Fig. 13.
The sections which come into contact in the switch are made as follows:
Mount four pieces of thin copper or brass on the fiber base with rivets
having their heads countersunk. Cut a disk, 1 in. in diameter, from a
piece of sheet insulation and drill a hole H, in the center of it. Also
drill a similar hole H₃ in the center of the switch base. Mount two
pieces of copper or brass, E and F, on the under side of this disk.
The edges and ends of all six pieces of metal should be rounded off so
that the pieces E and F will move freely over those on the base. The
disk, or upper part of the switch, may be attached to the base by means
of a small bolt placed through the holes at the center. A small spiral
spring should be placed between the disk and the lower end of this bolt
so as to keep the pieces of metal on the disk in contact with those on
the base. Attach a small handle to the disk so that it will extend out
on one side of the truck. Fix the switch into place by bolts through
the holes H₁ and H₂, Fig. 14, on the bottom of the motor frame. The
electrical connections should be made as shown in Fig. 15.
The detail of the couplers is shown in Fig. 11. They are made of brass,
fitted to the upper crosspieces and fixed to them by machine screws.
“Cowcatchers” may be made for the ends of the locomotive. Sheet metal,
corrugated appropriately and bent to the proper shape, will afford the
easiest method of making them. Those shown in Figs. 1 and 2 are made of
strips soldered together, and also to the upper crosspieces; they are
strengthened by a cross strip at the bottom, opposite the point.
[Illustration: Fig. 14, View of the Under Side of the Motor, Showing
How Switch is Fixed into Place]
The cab is to be made apart from the truck and is to fit upon the base,
as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. It is fixed into place by four screws and
can be removed easily for examination of the locomotive mechanism. The
dimensions for the cab are shown in Figs. 8 and 9, and may be varied by
the builder.
[Illustration: Fig. 15, Diagrams of the Reversing of Motor by Shifting
Switch to Form Contact Between Pairs of Brass Sectors Set in the Fiber
Switch Base]
Sheet metal or wood may be used in the construction, and the joints
soldered on the inside or riveted, as shown in the illustration. The
window and door openings may be cut out or painted on. Small bells
may be mounted on the ends of the cab, adding to its appearance. The
headlights shown in Figs. 1 and 2 may be cut from wood or made of
sheet metal. Light bulbs may be installed, and their voltage should
correspond to that of the motive energy. The terminals for the sockets
of the headlight lamps should be connected to the frame of the truck
and to the spring, which bears upon the brass collars on the wheels,
which are insulated from the axles, as shown at A, Fig. 3.
This completes the locomotive in all essential details and it is ready
to be placed upon the track to be tested. The track system will be
considered in a subsequent article.
Mixing Paste
When flour paste becomes watery upon cooling, it is evidence that
the mixture has been boiled too long. Only the best flour should be
used for making paste. Many paper hangers do not boil paste. They
make a stiff batter with lukewarm water, stirring out all lumps, and
then briskly stir in boiling water. When the mass thickens continue
stirring, but add no more hot water. Pour a little cold water on top
and set the paste away to cool.--Contributed by A. A. Kelly, Malvern,
Pa.
A Hammock Sleeping Tent
[Illustration: A Comfortable Sleeping Tent is Provided by the
Arrangement Shown in the Sketch]
Compactness in transportation and general serviceableness are features
of the hammock tent shown in the illustration. It is made by sewing a
piece of canvas to the sides of an ordinary “dog” or shelter tent and
may be made of a piece of canvas or tarpaulin. The tent is suspended
by the ridge from a heavy rope supported on trees or posts. It is
kept taut on the sides by tent ropes attached to stakes driven in the
ground. This form of tent is particularly convenient in providing a
good sleeping place in very small space. It is free from dampness,
and the camper is provided with a comfortable rest free from prowling
animals, without the use of a cot.--Daniel C. Duvall, Washington, D. C.
Broken Spade Handle Repaired with Water Pipe
A garden spade, or fork, broken at the handle may be repaired by
joining the broken ends with a piece of old iron water pipe. The broken
ends should be trimmed carefully and driven into the piece of pipe. In
order to make a more secure joint, holes may be bored and countersunk
at each end of the pipe and screws fixed into them. If the break is so
close to the handle that the latter is useless, a new one may be made
by fixing a pipe tee, with a wooden rod as a handle, to the end of the
fork or spade.--George H. Holden, Chesterfield, England.
Tilting Top for Camera Tripod
[Illustration: The Homemade Tilting Top Is Convenient in Making
Photographs at a Variety of Angles]
Pointing a camera up, or down, as in photographing tall buildings with
the ordinary camera tripod, is awkward and requires much time to make a
satisfactory adjustment. To overcome this, a tilting top was made for
the tripod, as shown in the illustration. The extra top consists of two
boards hinged at one end. The lower board has a tripod socket to fit
the tripod, while the upper one has a tripod screw for fastening the
camera. Two metal brackets are provided, having slots through which
binding screws are fitted, and clamped with wing nuts. This permits
the camera to be tilted at various angles, or reversed for vertical
pictures, without removing it from the tripod. Several positions
are suggested and a little experimentation will give numerous other
possible uses. Devices of this character may be purchased, but the
one shown is easily made and serves its purpose well.--R. C. Miller,
Pittsburgh, Pa.
[Illustration: Homemade Electric Locomotive Model and Track System
BY A. E. ANDREW
PART III--Construction of the Track System]
Operation of the electric-locomotive model described in the previous
articles is feasible only with a properly constructed track system.
This equipment, including curves and switches, is to be described in
this, the final, article. Two functions are to be performed by the
track system: It must serve as a support and guide for the locomotive
and provide a path over which the current from the source of energy
is supplied to the motor within the locomotive and returned to the
source. On this basis, then, the construction may be divided into two
parts: the mechanical and the electrical features. If the mechanical
construction is not practical and accurate, the locomotive will not
operate satisfactorily. The electrical connections must be given due
care also.
[Illustration: SECTION OF RAIL
FIG. 1
RAIL CONNECTION
FIG. 2
Shape the Rails from Sheet-Metal Strips, 1¹⁄₂ Inches Wide and 16 inches
Long, to the Form Shown in Fig. 1. The Rail Connections are Formed as
Shown in Fig. 2]
The track should be of uniform gauge; the joints should be solid
and free from irregularities, which cause “bumping” in passing over
them. The material used should be stiff, so that it will retain its
form, and preferably non-rusting. The rails must be insulated from
each other, and proper means must be provided for making suitable
electrical connections between the various sections. The construction
of a straight and a curved section of track, together with a switch and
signal, adaptable to various places on the system, will be considered
in detail.
The straight sections may be made any suitable length; sections 16 in.
long will be found convenient, as the metal pieces forming the rails
may be bent into shape easily when they are short rather than long. The
possibility of various combinations of straight and curved sections in
a given area is increased by having the sections shorter. The rails
may be made from tinned sheet-metal strips, by taking pieces, 16 in.
long and 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, and bending them into the form shown in Fig. 1.
The rails should be mounted on small wooden sleepers, ¹⁄₂ by ¹⁄₂ by 4
in., by means of small nails, or preferably small screws. The distance
between the centers of the rails should be 2 in. The sections of track
may be fastened together at the ends by means of a special connector,
shown in Fig. 2, made from thin metal, preferably spring brass. The
type of connector shown in Fig. 2 will not prevent the sections from
pulling apart, and to prevent this, a second connector, similar to
that shown in Fig. 3, should be made. The sleepers at the ends of each
section should have one side beveled, as shown, and these edges should
be exactly one inch from the end of the rails. A spring clip should be
made, similar to that shown, which will slip down on the inside of the
end sleepers and hold the sections together.
[Illustration: METHOD OF CONNECTING TRACK SECTIONS
FIG. 3
SECTION OF RAIL
FIG. 4
END CONNECTION OF RAILS
FIG. 5
A Spring Clamp for the Joints in the Sections is Shown in Fig. 3. An
Improved Form of Rail is Shown in Fig. 4, and in Fig. 5 is Indicated
the Method of Joining Its Sections]
A better form of rail is shown in Figs. 3 and 4, but it is somewhat
more difficult to construct. In this case, instead of bending the
piece of metal forming the rail over on itself and closing the space
entirely, the metal is bent over a round form, such as a piece of wire,
which may be removed, leaving an opening through the upper part of the
rail from end to end. This gives a better form to the tread of the rail
and at the same time provides an easy means of connecting the ends of
the rails, as shown in Fig. 5. Small metal pins, about 1 in. long, and
of such a diameter that they will just fit the circular opening in the
top of the rail, are provided. One of these pins should be fastened
in one rail at each end of a section, making sure that no rail has
more than one pin in it, and that the arrangement of pins and rails
corresponds in all sections. With proper care the various sections
should fit together equally well, and they may be held together as
shown in Fig. 3.
[Illustration: METHOD OF LAYING OUT CURVED SECTION
FIG. 6
LEFT SWITCH
FIG. 7
RIGHT SWITCH
FIG. 8
Lay Out the Switches and Curves, Full Size, and Fit the Rails to the
Curves Accurately]
The curved sections may be made from rails similar to those described
above, but some difficulty will be experienced in bending them into a
curve because of the necessity of bending the lower flange on edge.
The difficulty may be overcome by crimping in the inner edge of the
lower flange and expanding the outer edge by hammering it on a smooth
surface. The radius of the curve to which the inner rail should be bent
in order to give a section of convenient length, and not too abrupt a
curve, is 21 in. The circumference of such a circle is approximately
132 in., which, divided into eight sections, gives 16¹⁄₂ in. as the
length of the inner rail of each section. Since the tread of the track
is 2 in., the radius of the curve of the outer rail will be 23 in. The
circumference of the circle formed by the outer rail is 145 in., which
divided into eight sections gives 18¹⁄₈ in. as the length of the outer
rail of each section. These curved rails may be mounted on sleepers,
their ends being held in place, and the various sections fastened
together, just as in the case of the straight sections.
Some trouble may be experienced in getting the curved rails properly
shaped, and it would be a good plan to lay them out full size by
drawing two circles on a smooth surface having diameters of 42 and
46 in., respectively, and divide each of the latter into eight equal
parts. The form of the curve between these division lines and the
lengths of the curves will correspond to the shape and lengths of the
rails forming the curved sections of the track. The pieces should be
cut slightly longer than required, and after they are bent into shape
their length can be determined precisely and extra portions cut off.
Each curved section will correspond to ¹⁄₈ of the complete circle, or
45°, as shown in Fig. 6.
The switches for the track may be of two kinds: left and right. They
are named according to whether the car is carried to the left or right
of the main track with reference to the direction in which the car
moves in entering the switch. A left switch is shown in Fig. 7, and a
right switch in Fig. 8, the direction of movement being indicated by
the arrows.
[Illustration: DETAILS OF SWITCH
FIG. 9
The Crossings of the Rails must be Fitted Carefully, and the Movable
Sections G and H Arranged to Make the Proper Contacts]
A detailed drawing of a right switch is shown in Fig. 9. Rail A
corresponds in form and length to the outer rail of one of the curved
sections previously described; rail B corresponds to the inner rail of
one of the curved sections except that 2¹⁄₂ in. of straight rail is
added at the left end. Rail C is a straight portion of rail, 18 in.
in length, with a part of the base cut away at the switch, and rail D
is a section of straight rail, 15¹⁄₂ in. in length, with the base cut
away where it crosses rail A. The ends of rails D and A are hinged at
the points E and F, 3³⁄₄ in. from the left end, with pins driven into
the ties. The outside edges of the pieces G and H are filed off so they
will fit up against the rails C and B respectively. Both the pieces G
and H are attached to a strip of fiber insulating material, I, at their
left-hand ends, in such a way that when the piece H is against the rail
B, the piece G is away from the rail C about ³⁄₁₆ in.; when the end of
the piece G is drawn over against the rail C, the end of the piece H is
drawn away from the rail B about ³⁄₁₆ in. With these two combinations
the car may be made to move along the main track or to the right on the
curved track. The two long sleepers J and K are to provide a mounting
for the switch-control lever and signal.
The rail A is not continuous where the rail D crosses it, but is broken
as shown in the figure. A small notch should be cut in the surface
of the rail D where it crosses the rail A, for the flange of the car
wheels to roll through when the car is moving onto or off the switch.
The sections of the rails A and D must be connected electrically. Rail
A must be connected to rail C, and rail B to rail D.
It is obvious from an inspection of Fig. 9, at L, that rail D will
be connected to rail A when the car is on the switch, the car wheels
passing over the point L, and a short circuit will result. This may be
prevented by insulating the short section of the rail D at this point
from the remainder of the rail, but the length of the insulated section
must not be greater than the distance between the wheels on one side
of the car; otherwise the circuit through the motor would be broken.
If this is the case, and the car stops on the main track with both
wheels on the insulated section, it would be impossible to start the
locomotive until one wheel was moved to a live part of the rail.
The switch control is shown in Fig. 10, and the letters C, G, and
I correspond to those given in Fig. 9. A ¹⁄₈-in. rod, about 4 in.
in length, is bent into the form shown at M. It is mounted in a
frame, the details of which are shown in Fig. 11. A small arm, N,
with a hinged handle, O, is soldered to the rod, after it is placed
in position in the switch frame. The arm N and the lever P should be
parallel with each other. If properly constructed, the handle O will
drop into the notches in the top of the switch frame, and prevent the
rod M from turning. A connection should be made from the lever P to
the end of the piece I, which will result in the switch being operated
when the rod M is rotated one-fourth of a turn. After this connection
is made, the frame of the switch should be fastened to the ends of the
long sleepers, which were provided when the track part of the switch
was constructed. Two small disks, mounted at right angles to each
other, will serve as signals when properly painted, or as an indication
of the open or closed position of the switch.
[Illustration: SWITCH CONTROL
FIG. 10
TOP VIEW SWITCH FRAME
FIG. 11
The Signals Indicate the Open or Closed Condition of the Switch by the
Small Disk, Which is Regulated by the Lever Switch Control]
The speed of the car on the track may be controlled by inserting
resistance in series with the battery or source of electrical energy,
or by altering the value of the voltage between the rails, by changing
the connections of the cells forming the battery. The direction of
movement of the locomotive cannot be changed unless the car is turned
end for end, or the connections of the armature or field winding--not
both--are reversed. The switch on the bottom of the locomotive reverses
these connections.
[Illustration: FIG. 12]
A small rheostat, which will give the desired resistance, may be
constructed as follows: Obtain a piece of hard wood, 4 by 5 in., and
³⁄₈ in. in thickness. Lay out a curve on this piece, as shown in Fig.
12 by the row of small circles. Procure eight round-headed brass
machine screws, about ¹⁄₈ in. in diameter and ³⁄₄ in. in length, and 16
nuts to fit them. Drill eight ¹⁄₈-in. holes along the curve, spacing
them ³⁄₈ in. apart. File the heads of the screws off flat and mount the
screws in these holes. Make a metal arm, S, and mount it on a small
bolt passing through a hole drilled at the center from which the curve
was drawn, along which the screws were mounted. This arm should be
of such a length that its outer end will move over the heads of the
screws. Mount two binding posts, Q and R, in the upper corners of the
board and connect R to screw No. 8, and Q to the bolt holding the arm S
in place. Connect small resistance coils between the screws, starting
with screw No. 2; screw No. 1 corresponds to an open circuit and is
shown in contact with the arm S. Two stops, indicated by the black
spots, should be provided, to prevent the arm from moving back of screw
No. 1 or beyond screw No. 8. The board may now be mounted on a suitable
hollow base, and the rheostat is complete.
Two binding posts should be mounted on the ties of one section of
the track, and one of them electrically connected to each of the two
rails, which will give an easy means of making the necessary electrical
connections to the source of energy. After careful examination, to
make certain that the locomotive is in running order, a test run
may be made. If the locomotive operates properly and difficulty is
experienced when it is placed upon the track, check up thoroughly on
all rail connections, insulations, and other elements in the electrical
equipment. Cars of a proper gauge may be coupled to the locomotive,
and “runs” made as extensively as the track system will permit.
Sleeve Aids in Distinguishing Gas-Fixture Chains
[Illustration]
Annoyance through inability to locate quickly the proper chain for
lighting a gas lamp in the dark was overcome by fitting a small brass
tube to one of the chains as shown in the illustration. The tube was
soldered to the chain by which the light is turned on and the other
chain passes through the tube and is grasped below it. To turn on the
light, it is only necessary to slide the hand along both chains and to
grip the tube, drawing on the chain attached to it. To turn the light
off, the exposed end of the other chain is drawn.--Thomas W. Benson,
Hastings upon Hudson, N. Y.
An Ornamental Horn Match Holder
[Illustration]
A match holder made of the horn shell of cattle hoofs mounted on a
wooden shield, as shown in the sketch is both ornamental and useful.
One of the pockets holds the unused matches and the other the burnt
ones. The hoofs were cleaned thoroughly and polished and the edge of
the shield was beveled off and varnished in the natural color of the
wood. The front was lacquered black and also varnished.
* * * * *
¶A small flat piece of wood is convenient for pointing up an eraser.
Driving Thin Metal into Wood
[Illustration]
A slender piece of flat, or round, metal may be driven into a wood
handle without breaking the wood or bending the metal, if it is placed
in a vise and the wood part driven onto the small portion projecting
from the jaws of the vise. Repeat the operation until the metal is
driven far enough into the wood.
Slicing Board for Camp or Kitchen
[Illustration]
The board illustrated was suggested by a device used by a “sandwich
man,” and proved practical for use in the home and especially in the
camp. Potatoes, or other articles of food to be sliced, are placed
in the hollow portion of the board and moved against the edge at the
right, under the knife. The guide, which may be adjusted by means of
the wing nut, permits slices of varying thickness to be cut.--Robert C.
Knox, St. Petersburg, Fla.
Cleanly Pencil Sharpener
[Illustration]
Pencils may be pointed without spreading the dust from them by the use
of the device shown in the illustration. A piece of emery paper is
fixed to one side of the cover of the box. By turning over the cover
with a handle, after a pencil has been pointed, the dust may be dropped
into the box and removed from time to time.--Sidney Block, Detroit,
Mich.
A Weeding Tool
[Illustration: A
B
A Case-Knife Blade Bent and Fastened in a Broom Handle Makes an
Excellent Weeding Tool]
A handy weeding tool may be made of an old case knife--one of the kind
having a wood handle is the best. Remove the handle sides and heat the
blade about 1 in. from the end, then bend it at right angles as shown
at A. Ream out the rivet holes in the handle large enough to allow
screws, about 1 in. in size, to enter. Procure an old broom handle
and saw a slot in one end deep enough to receive the knife shank, and
fasten it with screws, as shown at B. This makes an excellent tool for
removing weeds from beds of young radish, lettuce and other plants,
as it is possible to get close to the plant stem without injuring
it.--Contributed by L. G. Burnand, Lyons, Iowa.
Spray Nozzle Made of Acetylene Burner
[Illustration]
An acetylene burner makes a first-class spray nozzle, even though
the lava tips are broken off level with the metal. The burner may be
secured on a short piece of pipe, as at A, and this inserted in a hose,
or it may be pushed into a hose and wound with wire, as shown at B.
Clamping a Wide Board on a Bench
[Illustration: A Block on the Bench and a Stick in the Vise Served as
Jaws of a Wide Opening]
Having occasion to cut a groove on the surface of a board too wide for
the vise, I rigged up the arrangement shown to hold it. The board was
laid on the bench with the edge slightly projecting, then I nailed a
block firmly to the bench, close to the edge of the board, and placed
a stick in the vise as shown. When the vise screw was turned up, the
board was gripped solidly.--Contributed by S. H. Bosuston, Victoria, B.
C.
Feeding Pan for Poultry
[Illustration: An Ordinary Pan Placed in a Shallow Box Makes the Form
for a Concrete Vessel]
An excellent water or feeding pan for small chicks can be made of
concrete. Take an old pan and place it in an inverted position in a
shallow box, as shown in the sketch, then mix the concrete and pour it
over the pan. When the cement sets, turn it over and a pan will be had
that small chicks can climb out of, should they get into it.
Metal Floor Corners
[Illustration]
The hardest part of a room or stairway to clean is the corners, and
these always collect a good quantity of dirt. Instead of removing
the dirt each time, a better plan is to fix the corner as shown
in the illustration. A triangular piece of brass or copper, 2 in.
on each side, is fastened into the corner with one nail through
the center. These metal pieces are especially desirable in public
buildings.--Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Mass.
[Illustration]
Measuring Resistance with a Lead Pencil
BY JOHN D. ADAMS
There are very few electrical experimenters who can afford a Wheatstone
bridge for measuring resistances, and yet, if one is to gain any
knowledge from his experiments, it is very necessary to know what
resistance is being used, particularly in handling 110 volts. The
amateur will find the following method very useful.
There are several brands of lead pencils, the leads of which have a
resistance of 200 to 300 ohms, while others have comparatively little
resistance. Soak several pencils--preferably the large kind carpenters
use--in water over night so that the leads may be removed without
breaking. Connect up two 40-watt lamps in series and note how they
burn. Then replace one lamp with a lead and note the relative intensity
with which the remaining lamp burns. If the lead is of a sufficiently
high resistance it will cut down the illumination about as much as the
additional lamp.
Having selected a lead, mount it on a suitable board, holding it in
place by clamping each end under a strip of brass held down with wood
screws. Next screw in place two porcelain receptacles and place three
binding posts in position, all as shown in the sketch. Connect up as
indicated, and attach a short length of flexible cord, with a metal tip
on the free end, to one terminal of the central receptacle. Procure
a cheap 75-ohm receiver and connect it to the two ends of the pencil
lead. Finally glue on a paper scale.
[Illustration: The Lead Taken from a Lead Pencil and Used as a Means of
Measuring Resistance]
To operate, place a high-resistance lamp in the center receptacle--say,
a 15-watt lamp--to prevent heating, and almost any lamp of known
wattage in the other receptacle. From the rating of this lamp the
resistance may at once be determined by Ohm’s law. Thus, at 110 volts,
a 25-watt lamp will have a resistance of 484 ohms; a 40-watt lamp 300
ohms, and a 60-watt lamp, 200 ohms. Connect the unknown resistance, as
shown in the drawing, and move the metal tip on the end of the flexible
cord back and forth along the pencil lead until a point is reached
where no sound is emitted by the receiver. This point will be very
well defined, and as the connection is moved away from it in either
direction the sound will increase rapidly. Note the reading on the
scale, and then if a 40-watt lamp is used in the end receptacle, the
unknown resistance will be
300 A
= -----.
B
The resistance of the center lamp does not enter into the computation,
but by changing the lamp in the end receptacle, another set of figures
may be obtained, and a means had to secure increased accuracy.
A Simple Motor Controller
The controller described is very similar in operation to the types
of controllers used on electric automobiles, and its operation may
be easily followed by reference to the diagrammatic representation
of its circuits, and those of a two-pole series motor to which it is
connected, as shown in Fig. 1. The controller consists of six flat
springs, represented as small circles and lettered A, B, C, D, E, and
F, which make contact with pieces of narrow sheet brass mounted on a
small wood cylinder, so arranged that it may be turned by means of a
small handle located on top of the controller case in either direction
from a point called neutral, which is marked N. When the cylinder of
the controller is in the neutral position, all six contact springs
are free from contact with any metal on the cylinder. The contacts
around the cylinder in the six different horizontal positions are
lettered G, H, J, K, L, and M. There are three different positions
of the controller in either direction from the neutral point. Moving
the cylinder in one direction will cause the armature of the motor to
rotate in a certain direction at three different speeds, while moving
the cylinder in a reverse direction will cause the armature to rotate
in the opposite direction at three different speeds, depending upon the
exact position of the cylinder. These positions are designated by the
letters O, P, and Q, for one way, and R, S, and T, for the other.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
Diagram of the Electrical Connections of a Controller to a Two-Pole
Series Motor]
Supposing the cylinder to be rotated to the position marked O, the
circuit may be traced from the positive terminal of the battery U, as
follows: To contact spring E, to strip of brass L, to strip of brass
M, to contact spring F, through the field windings VV, to contact
spring D, to strip of brass K, to strip of brass J, to contact spring
C, through resistance W and Y, to armature Z, through armature to the
negative terminal of the battery. Moving the cylinder to the position
P merely cuts out the resistance W, and to the position Q, cuts out
the remaining resistance Y. The direction of the current through the
armature and series field, for all positions of the cylinder to the
left, is indicated by the full-line arrows. Moving the controller to
the positions marked R, S, and T, will result in the same changes in
circuit connections, as in the previous case, except the direction of
the current in the series field windings will be reversed.
[Illustration: FIG. 2
Upper-End View of the Controller, Showing the Manner of Attaching the
Springs]
The construction of the controller may be carried out as follows:
Obtain a cylindrical piece of wood, 1³⁄₄ in. in diameter and 3¹⁄₈ in.
long, preferably hard wood. Turn one end of this cylinder down to a
diameter of ¹⁄₂ in., and drill a ¹⁄₄-in. hole through its center from
end to end. Divide the circumference of the small-diameter portion
into eight equal parts and drive a small nail into the cylinder at each
division point, the nail being placed in the center of the surface
lengthwise and perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder. Cut off all
the nail heads so that the outer ends of the nails extend even with
the surface of the outer, or large-size, cylinder. Divide the large
part into eight equal parts so that the division points will be midway
between the ends of the nails, and draw lines the full length of the
cylinder on these points. Divide the cylinder lengthwise into seven
equal parts and draw a line around it at each division point. Cut some
¹⁄₈-in. strips from thin sheet brass and mount them on the cylinder to
correspond to those shown in Fig. 1. Any one of the vertical division
lines drawn on the cylinder may be taken as the neutral point. The
pieces may be mounted by bending the ends over and sharpening them so
that they can be driven into the wood. The various strips of brass
should be connected electrically, as shown by the heavy lines in Fig.
1, but these connections must all be made so that they will not extend
beyond the outer surface of the strips of brass.
A small rectangular frame is made, and the cylinder is mounted in a
vertical position in it by means of a rod passing down through a hole
in the top of the rectangle, through the hole in the cylinder and
partly through the bottom of the rectangle. The upper part of the rod
may be bent so as to form a handle. The rod must be fastened to the
cylinder in some convenient way.
Make six flat springs similar to the one shown at A, Fig. 2, and mount
them on the inside of the rectangle so that they will correspond in
their vertical positions to the strips of brass on the cylinder. Six
small binding posts mounted on the outside of the box and connected to
these springs serve to make the external connections, and they should
be marked so that they may be easily identified.
A flat spring, ¹⁄₄ in. wide, is made similar to the one shown at B,
Fig. 2. Mount this spring on the inside of the rectangle so it will
mesh with the ends of the nails in the small part of the cylinder.
The action of this spring is to make the cylinder stop at definite
positions. The top of the case should be marked so that the position
of the handle will indicate the position of the cylinder. Stops should
also be provided so that the cylinder case cannot be turned all the way
around.
Miniature Push Buttons
[Illustration]
A very neat and workmanlike push button may be made in the following
manner: Procure an unused tan-shoe eyelet with an opening about ³⁄₁₆
in. in diameter, and at the proper point drill a hole into the board
in which the button is to be set. Force the eyelet in flush, using a
little shellac to hold it in tightly. For the button proper, polish off
and round one end of a piece of brass rod of a diameter that will move
freely up and down in the eyelet. Solder a small piece of sheet brass
across the lower end to keep it from coming out, then adjust and fasten
on the two contact pieces, all as indicated in the sketch. The larger
piece should be quite springy so as to bring the button back each time.
The connections may be made by slipping the wires under the heads of
the two wood screws that hold the contact pieces in place.
As every experimenter knows, it is almost impossible to drill a hole
in the varnished base of an instrument without leaving a raw edge.
Under such circumstances, when it is desired to make an opening for
conducting cords, and the like, simply drill a hole with an ordinary
drill and then set in a small shoe eyelet, which immediately presents a
very finished appearance.
* * * * *
¶Vaseline, with a little powdered gum camphor added and heated over a
slow fire, makes an excellent rust preventive for tools.
A Quickly Made Toy Electric Motor
[Illustration: The Motor is Constructed of Pieces of Tin, a Nail, and
Some Wood Blocks]
The illustration shows a small electric motor of such simple
construction that it can be easily made from odds and ends to be found
in any amateur workshop. Cut six strips, ¹⁄₂ in. wide and 3¹⁄₂ in.
long, from an old tin can, and bend them together into a U-shape. This
forms the magnet A. The outside piece should be a trifle longer than
the others so that its ends can be turned over the other ends to keep
them all in place. Screw this down on a small wood base. At one side of
the wood base, fix an upright, B, and on top, a light wood bracket, C,
to take the upper bearing of the motor. The shaft D is simply a wire
nail with the head filed off and filed to a point. Drive it through a
1¹⁄₂-in. length of the same kind of material as used for the magnet.
This forms the rotating armature E.
Make a slight indentation with a center punch, or strong nail, exactly
in the center of the base portion of the magnet to take the lower end
of the shaft. For the upper bearing file the end of a brass screw off
flat and make a similar indentation with a center punch, or by a few
turns of a small drill. This screw should be adjusted in the bracket
until the shaft rotates freely with the armature just clearing the tips
of the magnet. Wind about 40 turns of fairly thin cotton-covered copper
wire--No. 24 or 36 gauge is suitable--around each limb of the magnet,
first covering the latter with paper, to prevent the possibility of
short-circuiting. The windings should be in opposite directions so that
the connecting piece of the wire from one coil to the other passes
across diagonally as shown in the illustration.
The brush F is formed by doubling up one of the free ends of the
windings after removing the cotton covering and fixing it firmly with
two screws to the side of the upright. After attaching, it should be
bent until the outer end bears lightly on the shaft. Remove the shaft
and at the point where the brush touched, file two flat surfaces on
opposite sides of the nail in a direction at right angles to the
longitudinal center line of the armature. On replacing the shaft the
brush should be adjusted so that it makes contact twice in a revolution
and remains clear at the flat portions. Connect up to a battery, one
wire to the screw at the top of the motor and the other end to the open
end of the windings. Give the armature a start and it will run at a
terrific speed.--Contributed by Morris G. Miller, New Rochelle, N. Y.
Gauge for Woodwork
[Illustration]
A convenient gauge can be quickly made by using a block of wood and an
ordinary nail, or several nails for different widths can be placed in
one block. Drive the nails straight into the block until the distance
between the head and block is the required distance to be gauged. The
rim of the nail head makes the mark as the block is drawn over the wood
surface--Contributed by E. P. Haldeman, Balboa, Canal Zone.
[Illustration: A Homemade Ammeter
BY JOHN D. ADAMS]
Where a high degree of accuracy is neither desired nor necessary, a
very satisfactory ammeter may be made at the cost of a few cents, and
without using hairsprings, permanent magnets, or other articles usually
not at hand.
The actuating device consists of a small coil of coarse, insulated
wire, with a bundle of soft-iron wires for a core, which attracts a
curved, soft-iron, wedge-shaped armature. The moving system is so
balanced that the armature will hang as illustrated when no current
is passing. On account of its shape, the higher the armature rises,
the more iron it presents to the influence of the magnet, and, on the
other hand, the greater will be the effect of gravity. The advantage of
this type of control is the elimination of the irregular readings of
the scale, due to the law of inverse squares, that usually follow when
any method depending upon a variable distance is used. Further, the
readings can be had as desired by altering the taper of the armature,
its thickness, or its distance from the magnet, and also by adding a
small weight of nonmagnetic material at the bottom. As most commercial
circuits supply alternating current, the friction of the bearings
does not affect the readings, since the alternations set up a decided
vibration in the entire moving system, thus eliminating static friction.
[Illustration: A Very Satisfactory Ammeter for Use Where Accuracy is
Not Desired or Necessary]
In view of the variations above referred to, it will be evident that
it is not very essential of what dimensions the apparatus is made.
The instrument that I use has a base measuring 2¹⁄₂ in. by 5 in. The
coil is built on a tube of glued paper, and contains about 15 ft. of
No. 16 gauge wire. The terminals consist of the brass bolts taken from
discarded dry cells. A steel sewing needle serves as a shaft, and a
piece of wire for the pointer. The various joints are made with soft
solder, and suitable stops are provided to keep the armature from
shifting laterally. In calibrating, a blank scale should be glued in
position and as many 55-watt lamps as possible arranged so that they
can be placed in the circuit, one at a time. On a 110-volt line, each
lamp added will mark a half-ampere point. If a sufficient number of
lamps to carry the scale high enough cannot be secured temporarily,
a resistance of some 20 or 30 ohms should be placed in the circuit
without any lamps. Note the reading in amperes on the scale thus far
constructed, and then begin adding the lamps again, making a mark on
the scale as each lamp is added. In this manner a scale may be built up
sufficiently accurate for all practical purposes.
If two identical coils are made in place of one, the additional coil
can be placed in parallel with the instrument as a shunt, thus doubling
its capacity and making it necessary, of course, to multiply all
readings by two.
Footstool
[Illustration: Footstool in Mission Finish with a Leather Top]
The material necessary for the footstool shown in the illustration is
as follows:
2 end pieces, 1 by 10 by 15 in.
3 cross braces, 1 by 4 by 12 in.
2 end braces, ⁷⁄₈ by 4 by 8 in.
1 top board, ¹⁄₂ by 10 by 14 in.
1 piece of leather, 11 by 16 in.
Round-head wood screws and nails.
The two end pieces should be marked to a suitable pattern, and may be
cut out with a scroll or coping saw, or, if these are not available,
with a keyhole saw. The center opening should first be bored at one
end and then cut out with the saw. The three long braces should be
accurately squared and finished at the ends; the rigidity of the stool
depending on this work. The seat consists of a box form with the open
side down. The top is a ¹⁄₂-in. board, 8 in. wide by 12 in. long; the
sides are formed by two of the long braces, and the ends are the short
braces. This box is securely put together with nails, and then screwed
in position with round-head wood screws so as to be flush with the
top edge of the end pieces. The lower brace is secured in place with
screws. In putting on the leather top, ¹⁄₂ in. should be turned under
at each end, and 1¹⁄₂ in. brought down on each side. This will provide
sufficient looseness to pad the seat properly. Large round-headed brass
nails can be used, producing a neat appearance. The stool is then ready
for a suitable stain or finish.--Contributed by Stanley B. Furbeck.
Stopper for a Bunghole
While we were filling our barrels at the cider mill it was discovered
that one barrel had no stopper. This did not bother the cider-mill
man, who took up a sound apple of about the dimensions or diameter of
the bunghole and squeezed it in, tight as a cork, then shaved it off
flush with the barrel staves. We started Home and rolled it around a
great deal with the other barrels, yet it held as tightly as any wood
stopper.--Contributed by A. A. Kelly, Frazer, Pa.
* * * * *
¶An open umbrella placed on the floor upside down makes an excellent
receptacle for catching dirt and plastering when installing electric
fixtures.
A Woven-Reed Footstool
BY CHARLES M. MILLER
[The various materials referred to in this article by number or size
were described in detail in an article on “A Reed Basket,” in the Boy
Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.]
Reed furniture has become very popular within the last few years, and
the newer designs and methods have been so attractive as to place this
constructive effort among the handicraft series of modern art. It is
possible so to analyze, simplify, and illustrate this work as to make
it feasible for amateurs, and at the same time there are possibilities
which involve problems that may try the ability of the skilled workman.
In other words, there are possibilities of progress in this kind
of furniture making. There are places where careful weaving is the
principal aim; again particular attention will be given to corners, or,
perhaps, a nicety of modeling will be found necessary to bring out the
proper curves involved.
Each piece of reed furniture has a framework, usually of dowels, but it
may also be made of boards in such models as small tables, dressers,
bedsteads, chests, etc. The board construction is more often covered
with flat reed. In footstools there are both kinds of framework.
The illustrations show the same parts marked with the same letters
throughout the series of sketches.
[Illustration: The Framework of the Stool is Made of Large Dowels, Then
Covered with Windings of Reed and a Woven Reed Top and Apron]
The framework of the stool is shown in Fig. 1, in which the rails
and posts are made of dowels, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, and the braces of
dowels, ⁵⁄₈ in. in diameter. It will be noticed that the posts extend
to the top of the frame for strength in this manner of construction.
If the rails rested on top of the post S, the nails would have to be
driven into the end grain of the wood, which makes the strength depend
entirely on the holding power of the nail in this position, as there
is no binding of the upper part to the posts in the weaving. With the
post extending to the top, the nail passes through the upper part of
the post and into the end grain of the rails, and the rails are bound
together horizontally by the weaving.
The material for the frame consists of the following dowel stock:
two pieces for rails, ³⁄₄ in. by 14 in. long; two pieces for rails,
³⁄₄ in. by 9 in. long; four posts, ³⁄₄ in. by 7 in. long, and two
braces, ⁵⁄₈ in. by 17 in. long. These pieces are shown in Fig. 2. If
notches are cut with a small saw, a coping saw preferred, in the ends
of each rail and in the braces, as shown in Fig. 3, they will fit to
the posts better and make a stronger joint. While different makers
use a finishing nail; a barbed or corrugated, nail; or a cemented, or
glue-coated, nail, I find the best to be an ordinary 4-penny nail,
which answers the purpose well. Do not drive the nail through the posts
without first drilling a hole with a ¹⁄₁₆-in. drill. A small hand or
breast drill will be needed for this work.
Before nailing the frame together, the holes for the spokes in weaving
should be drilled in the rails. The spokes may be No. 4 and the weavers
No. 3 reed. The No. 4 reed requires a ¹⁄₈-in. hole. The hole for the
top and end side spokes may be combined, as shown in Fig. 4. The dotted
lines show the vertical and horizontal diameters, and E the outside
and F the inside of the rail, one hole being represented as sawed in
two. The spokes for the top extend down and out at the ends, and each
may be of one piece, 32 in. long. As there are no spokes at the top
extending to the side pieces, short spokes must be inserted at the
right time for the side weaving. The location of the holes in the side
rails is shown in Fig. 2. The holes in the side rails may be drilled
straight in the wood.
The pieces may now be nailed together to form the frame, as shown in
Fig. 1. If the top of the side rails A are set about ¹⁄₁₆ in. below the
tops of the posts, the weaving will be almost level, as the winding
reed is thinner than the round reed. The braces D are halved at the
center, on a slant, to bring their upper surfaces on a level when they
are in place. The length of 17 in., as given in the material list, is
not accurate, as sufficient length is given to allow the ends to be
cut, in fitting them in place after the frame is assembled. The posts
should stand vertical and square. Try the braces before nailing them in
place, to see that they do not draw the frame out of shape.
The first operation in weaving is to cover the tops of the four posts,
which is started as shown in Fig. 5. A short piece of winding reed, G,
is first tacked in place. A round reed can be split if one is careful,
in case winding reed cannot be obtained. Tacks used by shoemakers are
just the thing for fastening these weavings in place. After fastening
the weaving G in place, another, H, is put on in an opposite direction,
whereupon J is fastened on the same as G, and so on, until the post is
covered, as shown in Fig. 6. Perhaps a better way to cover the posts
would be to tack all eight pieces on the post part C, and then weave
them down together. It may not be necessary to tack them all on the
rails.
After the corners are all covered, the end rails B are wound with the
winding reed, the start being shown in Fig. 7, where the frame is
shown in an inverted position. The reed is tacked, at K, to the side
rail, and whenever the winding comes to a hole, a pencil mark is made
to locate the hole later. This mark is shown at L. When the two end
rails are wound, push a bodkin, or other steel point, in between the
windings where the marks are located, to make way for the insertion of
the spokes. It may appear to an observer that the spokes could be put
in before the winding, but the winding cannot be properly done after
the spokes have been inserted, as the windings would separate too much
around them. The hole must be opened up through to the opposite side
of the rail. Single spokes go through the rail, and they are only put
through one end rail at first, as the weaving is much easier with one
end of the spokes free, but, of course, they must be inserted in the
other end before the weaving gets within 2 or 3 in. of that end. An
extra spoke is inserted beside each spoke, as the weaving proceeds and
after a strip has been woven ³⁄₄ in. wide. These short spokes are cut
just long enough to fit in between the end rails. The weaving is done
with a single weaver, and it is passed over and under double spokes as
if they were one. When the weaver comes to the side rail, it is wound
twice around the rail, to take up the space for the two strands across.
If the weaver does not go twice around the side rails each time, either
the weaving will take a curve or the side winding will be loose. The
starting of the weaving is shown in Fig. 8, where the extra spokes are
inserted along the side of each spoke that runs through the end rails.
After the spokes have been inserted in the opposite end rail and the
weaving in the top completed, the braces and posts should be wound.
Where the braces D connect to the posts C, three strips of the winding
reed are passed around the post and tacked on both sides of the braces,
as shown at M, Fig. 9. Where the braces cross, the winding passes
around both pieces for a short distance, as shown at N. It is quite
appropriate to use the brass caps O on this model, but on many stools
their use has been discontinued and the winding continues down to
within ¹⁄₈ in. of the bottom of the post. In case the brass cap cannot
be obtained, the winding may be used also on this model.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 5
FIG. 6
FIG. 4
FIG. 7
FIG. 8
FIG. 9
Details of the Dowel Pieces, Showing Dimensions for Drilling the Holes
to Admit the Spokes of Reed, Manner of Building the Framework, and How
the Top is Woven]
The side weaving is called the apron, and in this case the pairing
weave is used. The short spokes will have to be inserted in the under
side of the side rails, and the extra spokes are added after the
weaving is started and a small strip woven. The pairing weave is shown
in Figs. 10, 11, and 12. The two weavers are represented by the letters
P and Q. The weaver P passes back of spoke T and out between T and U.
The weaver Q is then used in the same manner, and so on, around the
stool. When the post is approached the weaver that comes out between
the last spoke and the post is passed around the post and in behind
the next spoke on the other side. It will be seen in the pairing weave
that the weaver behind is always thrown over the other weaver. This
gives the appearance of a rope twist to the weaving, and also cinches
it to the spokes and prevents slipping. Always pass the one weaver
around the post twice to take up the space for the one that cuts across
the corner. The weaving of the sides or apron is done with the object
turned upside down, where it is in a good position for finishing off,
which is sometimes called breaking down.
If the weaving has been carried far enough, the extra spokes are
cut off even with the weaving, and the breaking down may be done as
follows: The spoke R, Fig. 13, is shown turned down back of the spoke
S, and S back of T and out. The spoke R, as shown in Fig. 14, is back
of S, in front of T, back of U, and out between U and V, but as R is
brought out, the spoke T is brought down back and parallel with R.
Likewise the spoke S passes back of V, and U is brought down with it.
The spoke T is brought back of W and V is brought down back of it. The
short end of R is inserted under the roll, between the roll and the
weaving, and is left extending on the inside. If it is too long, it
can be cut off close to the inside of the weaving. In Fig. 15, all the
short ends are shown brought through to the back as far as the weaving
is illustrated. At the corners, the posts are used as spokes. To finish
the roll, the spokes will have to be inserted through the roll, to
correspond with the rest of it; hence, the beginning of the roll should
be left loose, as in Fig. 13.
[Illustration: FIG. 10
FIG. 11
FIG. 15
FIG. 12
FIG. 13
FIG. 14
The Weaving of the Apron is Done in the Same Manner as in Making a
Basket, with the Break Down to Form the Edge]
In weaving, the weavers should be kept wet, but not the spokes. Do not
put the reed in water and leave it for any length of time, as it will
become discolored. About 15 minutes will be sufficient to make the reed
pliable, then it is best to have a sponge and bucket of water at hand,
to dampen long weavers frequently by drawing the reed across the wet
sponge. Besides being more workable, the wet reed, held in place until
dry, stays curved in the form woven much better. Some workmen leave the
reed in water for a long time and depend on bleaching to whiten it, but
so much of the bleached work looks like a poor job of painting that
it is much better to keep it white from the start. In case bleaching
is found necessary, a little chloride of lime in water makes a good
bleacher. Avoid making the solution too strong. It should be put on
with a brush, so as to get it into the interstices of the weaving,
whereupon the work is placed in the sunshine to dry.
Any kind of reed used will have some of the small hairlike fibers
sticking out after the weaving is complete, and this should be singed
off with a gas flame. A blowtorch is good for this purpose. Be careful
not to scorch the weaving.
A Homemade Ellipsograph
BY J. A. SHELLY
The instrument illustrated was designed to take the place of the two
nails and a piece of string for drawing ellipses of different sizes. It
is made of hard wood, preferably maple or beech, and consists of a bar
with one fixed and one sliding head, the latter having a wedge clamp to
hold it at any point desired on the bar.
In the ends of the heads are driven two coarse needles that have been
broken off about ⁵⁄₈ in. from the eye end. These ends should be placed
¹⁄₈ in. from the inside of each head and the same distance from the
bottom, and driven in until the eyes are each ¹⁄₈ in. from the surface.
A piece of linen thread is run through the eye of the needle that is
in the end of the sliding head and knotted to prevent its pulling out,
and the free end is run through the needle eye on the fixed head. The
thumb tack in the fixed head is to secure the free end of the thread.
The tack is driven in at an angle so that one edge sticks up enough to
allow the thread to be pulled under it.
[Illustration: The Sliding Head can be Set so That Any Size Ellipse may
be Drawn within the Scope of the Instrument]
To operate the ellipsograph lay out the length of the major axis on a
center line, then bisect the distance between these points and erect
a perpendicular. On this line lay off half the minor axis, measuring
from the center line; then from this point locate the foci by setting
the dividers to half the major axis and scribing arcs of circles to cut
the center line. Set the heads of the instrument so that the projecting
needle ends will be the same distance apart as the foci, and clamp the
sliding head with the wedge. Set the instrument so that the needle
eyes will be exactly over the points where the foci are on the center
line. A pencil, with a little groove filed ¹⁄₈ in. from the point, for
the thread to run in, is set to half the minor axis and the thread is
pulled taut and secured by the thumb tack. The pencil should be held
perfectly perpendicular while scribing the line. The instrument must be
reversed to draw the other half of the ellipse.
To draw an ellipse that will be an exact projection of a circle at
any given angle it is necessary to determine the length of the major
axis. This may be done by laying out the circle, either full size or to
scale, and projecting two parallel lines equal to the diameter of the
circle, or its scale, and connecting these lines with a line drawn to
the required angle. The length of this line is the major axis.
* * * * *
¶Never run a glass cutter over the same line twice, as this will
ruin the cutter. Alcohol rubbed along the line to be cut aids in the
process.
Ship’s-Wheel Device for a Radiator Valve
Leaving one’s comfortable bed to open the valve of a radiator in a cold
room is an unpleasant task. The device shown in the sketch obviates the
necessity for leaving the bed, yet gives as positive control over the
valve as if the hand were on the valve wheel.
[Illustration: Draw on the Proper Cord to Open or Close the Valve]
The construction of the pulley attached to the top of the valve wheel
is shown in the small sketch at the right. It is built up of a center
section of wood and flanges of sheet metal, fastened with screws.
The pulleys attached to the wall are built in the same way, but are
smaller. Any size that is convenient may be used for the larger as well
as the smaller pulleys, but the larger pulley must be small enough so
that it will not rub against the end of the radiator.
The cord is wound around the pulley at the valve handle, several times,
like the steering cord on a motorboat. This gives a positive grip on
the pulley. The cord may be conducted directly from the large pulley to
the nearer small pulley, the other small one being omitted.
To operate the device draw on the proper cord to open and close the
valve. It would be well to mark the cords with tabs so that they may be
readily distinguished.--Contributed by P. D. Norton, Chicago, Ill.
Lighted Whirling Fan Used as Radiator Ornament
An ornament for the automobile-radiator cap that attracted a great deal
of attention at night was made by attaching two incandescent lamps to
the blades of a small propeller, which is whirled around by the wind.
By using the shaft on which the wheels of a roller skate revolve, ball
bearings were provided. One end of this shaft is held rigid in a block
of wood.
[Illustration: Homemade Ornament for an Automobile Radiator Revolves
with the Bulbs Lighted, Attracting Attention]
The wires which lead from the propeller are run under the hood, and
attached to the socket for the trouble lamp. They are taped to the rod
that braces the radiator, to avoid a short circuit, and then out from
under the hood at the radiator cap, and connected to the brushes A and
B. The incandescent electric-light bulbs are attached to the ends of
the propeller blades and connected in series. The wire is run from one
side of the socket E to the collar C, and soldered to the latter. The
wire from the other side of the socket is connected to the other lamp
F. The other wire from this lamp socket at F is soldered to the other
collar D. The brushes are made by bending a strip of copper into the
shape shown in the detail, and fastening it to the wooden block by
means of screw binding posts, soldered to the strips.--F. Lloyd Adams,
Jersey City, N. J.
A Fifty-Cent Electric Stove
Few persons realize what an intense heat may be developed when
the globe of an ordinary incandescent lamp is tightly inclosed,
largely eliminating the loss of heat. When the lamp is inclosed, the
temperature will increase until the rate of radiation is equal to that
at which the heat is generated. A good reflector is a poor radiator,
hence, when the metal wall surrounding the lamp is bright and shiny,
both inside and out, the heat is reflected inward.
[Illustration: A Handy Electric Stove can be Made at an Outlay of 50
Cents]
To make a small stove that will keep liquids warm, melt paraffin,
dissolve glue, etc., procure an ordinary 16-cp. carbon lamp, a
porcelain receptacle, and a bright, clean tin can, about 4 in. in
diameter and 7 in. long. Thoroughly blacken the bottom on the inside,
and then solder on four small brackets, cut from sheet brass or copper,
so that the can may be held down firmly, when inverted on the base.
The latter should preferably be made of hard wood, with the upper
edges beveled, as shown. Next bore the hole for the wire or flexible
cord. Fasten down the porcelain receptacle, connect the wiring, screw
in the globe, and screw down the tin can; the stove is then ready for
operation.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
[Illustration: Woven Reed Furniture
BY CHARLES M. MILLER
A Variety of Small Stools and Foot Rests]
[The various materials referred to in this article by number or size
were described in detail in an article on “A Reed Basket,” in the Boy
Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.]
Footstools of reed are preferable, in the home, to those made of
other materials, because of their light weight, rounded edges, and
comfortable, yielding tops. Reed, rattan, and similar material, used in
their construction, withstand hard wear, and will not easily mar floors
or furniture, a feature not to be overlooked, especially since the
footstool is a favorite seat or play table of children. Several types
of stools and foot rests are shown in the illustration. A stool having
a framework of dowels, covered with reed, and utilizing the frame to
produce a paneled effect, is shown in Fig. 3. The upper dowel of the
framework is covered and woven over with the top, in the somewhat
lighter stool shown in Fig. 8; the legs are braced at the ends with
reed, arched and covered with winding reed. The stool shown in Fig.
11 is designed with rounded lines, the bracing dowels being set low,
and a panel of openwork woven into the sides. Figure 15 shows a foot
rest, the framework of which is steamed and bent, and the top slanted
to provide a more comfortable rest for the feet. It is strongly braced,
paneled on the sides with winding reed, and ornamented with openwork
scrolls. The details of the construction of the frames and the method
of weaving the reed are shown in the other sketches.
Dowels, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, are used for the main framework of all
of the stools shown. The dimensions of the various stools may be made
to suit individual taste, those suggested in each instance having
been found satisfactory. A good size for the stool shown in Fig. 3
is: height, 9 in.; width, 11 in.; length, 15 in. The lower of the
horizontal dowels should be set at least one-third the height of the
leg from the top. The braces are notched at their ends to fit the curve
of the legs, and finishing nails are driven into them through the legs.
The corner joints are further reinforced by a binding of reed, placed
over them. The holes for the spokes are bored through the braces before
the construction is nailed together. They should be bored about 1¹⁄₄
in. apart, spaced uniformly, according to the length and width of the
stool. The tops of the legs should project about ¹⁄₁₆ in. above the
upper braces, so as to produce a level surface when the winding reed is
applied.
The upper end of the legs must first be covered with winding reed,
as shown in Fig. 2. Tack a strip of the reed on; then add successive
pieces, as shown, until the end is covered. The joint of the leg and
the lower brace must be reinforced, as shown in Fig. 2, by tacking
winding reed over it horizontally. The braces must then be wound with
winding reed, the spokes being inserted later. In winding the reed on
the braces, tack one end of it to the brace at the left of a leg; then
begin the winding on the brace to the right of the leg, and as each
hole is encountered mark with pencil on the reed, so that if any of the
holes are covered they may be found easily, when inserting the spokes.
The marks should be made on the lower side.
The spokes extend from the lower edge of the bottom rail on one side to
the lower edge of the corresponding rail or brace on the opposite side.
Short spokes are fitted between the upper and lower rails at the ends
of the stool. The top is woven complete before the sides are woven,
the pairing weave being used. In this method two strands of reed are
handled together, the first passing behind one spoke, and being below
the second strand, and then passing in front of the next spoke, and
being above the second strand, etc. This weave is shown in detail in
Fig. 9, illustrating an article on “Taborets and Small Tables for the
Summer Veranda,” page 155, July, 1916. The weaving of the top includes
the covering of the upper rails at the ends of the stool, which are
wound in as spokes, the reed passing around them and being directed
back in the opposite direction.
The weaving for the sides is carried around the stool continuously,
passing around the legs. One of the strands in the pairing weave passes
behind the leg, and the other must be wound around it an extra turn, to
cover up the space otherwise exposed. The reed is wound around the legs
to the lower end, the strand being tacked at the inner side of the leg.
The framework for the second type of stool is shown in Fig. 6. The two
side rails are fixed into place by the same method used in making the
first stool, and the frame is braced on the ends by sections of No. 12
or No. 14 reed. These are fitted into place and covered in the winding.
The braces should be fitted to the curve of the leg, and nailed into
place with small finishing nails. The ends where the braces join the
legs and rails should be whittled down to a long, thin wedge, so that
they may be bound in securely by the reed that is wound around the
legs, as shown in Fig. 4.
The spokes in this model, as shown in Fig. 6, do not pass through the
upper rails, but extend from one lower rail over the upper rails and to
the lower rail on the opposite side. This makes it necessary that the
upper rails be set slightly below and in from the top and outer edges
of the legs. The lower rails should then be set in so as to be uniform
with the upper ones.
The lower rails and the end braces are wound by the method used for
the rails in the first stool. The tops of the legs are finished
differently, however, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. The weaving is begun
at the lower rail, and proceeds until the side panel is filled to the
under edge of the upper rail. The weavers cannot then be returned at
the corner, and are cut off to extend 2 in. beyond the leg. Their ends
are thinned out, and then brought around the corner against the upper
rail on the end, as shown in Fig. 5. Alternately they are turned down
on the leg and against the end rail, producing a covering for the
corner. The strands of the top are woven over the thinned-out ends, and
bound over the joint of the braces with the upper rail. The corners may
be beaten gently with a block of wood to smooth them, and to bring the
weavers firmly together. The weavers pass twice around the legs, as
each strand is brought to the leg, as shown in Figs. 5 and 7. It will
be found convenient to place the spokes in only one lower rail, as in
Fig. 6, while weaving the first side panel, and the top. As the work
proceeds the spokes are bound down to the upper end rails, and when the
middle of the second side panel is reached, they are trimmed off and
fitted into their holes, on that side.
The third stool differs fundamentally from the preceding ones in that
the framework is curved at the upper ends, and the weaving of the top
is carried down over the ends. The framework is shown in detail, in
Fig. 9. Ash dowels, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, are used for the framework,
and the rails are notched into the main sections, and nailed, as were
those in the preceding stools. The length of the curved dowels must be
determined carefully, and it is desirable to have the stock longer than
is necessary for the finished pieces, so that inaccuracies in bending
may be allowed for properly. The distance between the legs should be
such that a space of ¹⁄₂ in. is provided between the legs and the first
hole for the side spokes, and the intervening spokes should be placed 1
in. apart. A satisfactory size is to make the stool 6 in. high, the end
rails 8 in., and the side rails 13 inches.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
FIG. 5
FIG. 6
FIG. 7
FIG. 8
FIG. 10
FIG. 9
FIG. 11
FIG. 14
FIG. 12
FIG. 15
FIG. 13
The Making of Stools in Woven Reed Affords the Craftworker an Excellent
Opportunity to Produce Constructions, for Home Use, or as Gifts, That
Have Originality and a Personal Element. The Frameworks for Four
Typical Stools and Foot Rests are Shown at the Left, and the Completed
Objects at the Right. Figure 14 Shows a Variation Adaptable to the
Methods of Weaving Shown in Other Models]
The method of bending the dowels is shown in Figs. 12 and 13. They
must be soaked in hot water or steamed, and clamped around the form
as indicated, being left to dry. A pipe fitted over the ends of the
dowels, to give leverage, will aid in bending them. The form is made
by fitting pegs, suitably spaced, into a board, ⁷⁄₈ in. or more in
thickness. The curved pieces may be braced temporarily, as shown, and
removed from the form when partly dried, so that it can be used quickly
for the second piece. The pegs must be set close enough together so
that the curve at the upper ends of the legs will not be too large,
making the legs appear short. Care must be taken in bending this short
curve, as the dowels are likely to break if the curve is quite abrupt.
By setting the pegs solidly and making them long enough, two pieces of
dowel rod may be curved in the form at the same time, and permitted to
dry. A convenient tray of galvanized iron, for use in heating water for
the moistening of the dowels, is shown in Fig. 10. It is 28 in. long,
but may be made shorter if the points at which curves are to be made
are moistened separately. A wash boiler, or any other suitable vessel,
may be used for heating the water and dipping the dowels into it. After
being shaped, the pieces are trimmed off to the proper height on the
leg portions. Holes for the spokes are then bored through the lower and
side rails, and they are notched and nailed to the legs.
The cross rails of the framework, shown in Fig. 9, are fixed into place
by the method used in the previous models. The lower rails should be
set about 2 in. from the floor, and are bored for double spokes. The
rails are set with their outer edges ¹⁄₈ in. in from the edges of the
legs, so that the weaving will be flush with the surface of the legs,
rather than project slightly beyond it. The spokes for the ends and
seat, or top, pass from one lower rail on one end to the corresponding
rail on the other end, and are supported on the upper end rails. There
are no corners to be fitted with the winding reed in this model, as the
windings continue over the curves at the ends and down over the latter,
by the same method of weaving as used in the top. The weaving is begun
at the lower rails, and passes completely around the sides and ends of
the stool, until about 1¹⁄₂ in. has been covered, up from the lower
rails. The ends only are then covered, the strands of reed passing
around the curved portion of the upper rails, and around the dowels
forming the support for the top, in weaving back and forth.
The ornamental weaving at the sides of the stool is produced by
spreading out the double spokes and conducting them to the proper holes
in the upper rails. Several types of design may be made by crossing the
spokes in various ways before setting them into the holes in the rails.
The short spokes in the sides are permitted to remain with their upper
ends free and longer than necessary while the 1¹⁄₂-in. lower section
is woven. They must be cut carefully to the size necessary to form the
desired design, and the ends glued into the holes.
The stool shown in Fig. 15 is designed as a foot rest, with a slanting
top. It is similar in general construction to that shown in Figs. 9 and
11, the framework being made of dowels, bent to the shape indicated by
means of a form. The top and ends are woven in the manner described for
the previous model. A point of difference to be noted is the bracing by
means of a woven panel below the side rails, as shown in Fig. 15. This
feature may be carried around the ends also, or the ends may be braced
to the lower side panel by the method of bracing shown in Fig. 4. The
rails around the stool are all on the same level. The double spokes for
the top are fixed into the end rails, the spokes for the side panels
into the side rails, and the smaller dowel placed at the lower edge
of the side panels, as a support for the twisted weaving shown. The
weaving of the top and the panels is by the method used in the previous
model. The scrolls fitted into the open portions of the sides are
tacked into place, and the strands of weaving reed carried over them,
where the curves touch the upper and lower rails. A variety of designs
may be worked out for the openwork. The scrolls are made of No. 6 or
No. 8 reed, and should be formed on a base, as in Fig. 12, brads being
used to hold them in shape until dry.
Another type of foot rest with a slanting top is shown in Fig. 14. The
framework is built up of dowels, straight sections only being used. The
joints are fastened by the method used in the first and second models
described. The method of covering the frame is essentially the same as
for the stool shown in Fig. 15, or an adaptation of that used in Fig.
11 may also be applied. Where facilities for steaming or moistening
the dowels are not to be had conveniently, this type of construction
will be found satisfactory, the designs being limited to straight
lines, however. The method of covering the framework used in Fig. 3 is
also available for the framework shown in Fig. 4, and the corners may
be finished as shown in Fig. 2. Numerous variations and combinations
of the types shown may be worked out readily after one has become
reasonably familiar with the possibilities of woven-reed construction.
Squirrel-Skin Bill Fold
[Illustration: Bill Fold Fashioned from a Squirrel Skin as a Souvenir
of a Hunting Trip]
As a souvenir of the “days afield” my brother fashioned a quaint bill
fold out of a squirrel skin, which, by the way, is a skin of remarkable
toughness, After tanning the skin and removing the hair, it was cut as
shown, the skin of the forelegs being used as fold-overs. The piece of
tape took the place of the tail. The shot holes through the skin added
the requisite touch of realism, recalling a day with the gun.--James M.
Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Waterproof Dry-Battery Case
[Illustration: Batteries Protected by a Waterproof Case will Give
Longer and More Efficient Service]
Dry batteries that are sealed in a tight, waterproof case will last
much longer than those exposed to dampness, especially in marine
practice. A box, like that shown in the sketch, will afford excellent
protection and add materially to the life and efficiency of batteries.
It is constructed of ¹⁄₂-in. cypress, or oak, of a length and width
depending upon the capacity in number of cells desired. The inside
dimensions should be such that the cells are firmly fitted. It should
be put together with screws and marine, or any other waterproof, glue.
The batteries should be placed in the case and connected. Molten
paraffin wax should then be poured over and under the cells. Do not get
the wax too hot, but heated only to the melting point. Binding posts
and a single-blade switch should be placed on the case and connected
up. Screw on the cover, after painting the top edges with the glue.
Give the case a good coat of varnish and paint, and fit with a carrying
handle. This makes a neat and handy battery outfit that is thoroughly
waterproof. The case can be refilled by cutting out the wax and
removing the old cells.--B. F. Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.
Making Small Ratchet Wheels in a Lathe
Accurately formed ratchet wheels of small size may be made without
special appliances in a lathe. A triangular file and a simple gauge,
made of a piece of hardened steel, are the only tools required, as
shown in the illustration.
[Illustration: Ratchet Wheels may be Cut Accurately with a File, Using
a Hardened-Steel Gauge as a Guide]
The lathe is prepared as an index for the ratchet wheels by dividing
the face of one of the steps, preferably the largest of the cone
pulley. A center punch may be used in marking the graduations slightly,
and another point should be marked in the headstock base, from which
dividers are used to gauge the movement of the spindle. The dividers
should be set, when the work is begun so that one point rests in the
punch mark on the headstock and the other in one of the marks on the
pulley. The bearings should be tightened so that the work will not
shift easily. The blank to be cut is supported on an arbor provided
with a shoulder, and is held in place by a small machine screw threaded
into the end of the arbor.
The teeth are cut by filing them with the gauge as a guide. If
the spindle is turned carefully so that the dividers register the
graduations precisely, the ratchet wheel will be cut accurately. By
first roughing out the teeth and then refiling them with a fine file,
a more smoothly finished surface will result. Other forms of teeth
might also be made if a properly shaped gauge is provided.--Charles F.
Merrill, Hopedale, Mass.
Front-Opening Hatbox
Lifting a hatbox down from a high shelf, only to find that the desired
hat is not among the several hats contained therein, is annoying. If
the hat shelves of the clothes closet are provided with boxes that
open on the front, the hats may be removed easily without taking the
boxes from the shelves. Rectangular boxes are used for making the
front-opening containers by cutting the side corners of the front,
and using the front lower edge as a hinge. The top, or cover, is
placed over the box, holding the hinged front in place when closed.
These boxes have been found to afford ample protection and are
convenient.--D. J. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.
Plaster of Paris to Set Screws into Wall
Screws holding light fittings in a bathroom were found to be driven
into the plaster between laths and became loosened. No strain was
placed upon them, and as it was desired to replace the screws in the
same holes, the following method was employed: A cotton string was
wrapped around the threads of the screw, and the screw then dipped
into plaster of Paris until sufficient of this adhered to it to fill
the hole in the wall and to permit some of it to be forced behind
the plaster. When the plugs thus formed were dry, they resisted a
considerable pressure, by reason of the enlarged portions behind the
plaster.--H. A. Trester, Milwaukee, Wis.
Case for Fishhooks Made of a Tin Can
After trying several devices for keeping my fishhooks, I hit upon my
present method, which has been found satisfactory. The materials used
are: a ¹⁄₂-lb. baking-powder tin; two disks, 2 in. in diameter and ¹⁄₄
in. thick, sawed from a convenient limb; a twig, 4 in. long, somewhat
smaller than a lead pencil, made smooth and straight; enough cork
stoppers, about ³⁄₄ in. in diameter at the small end, to make 3¹⁄₂ in.
in length, and a few drops of cold glue.
[Illustration]
Drill a hole lengthwise through the through the stoppers and through
the center of each disk, just large enough to allow the twig to pass
through closely. Cut from the small ends of two of the stoppers a
piece, ¹⁄₄ in. long, for pieces A and B. Pass the twig through the long
stoppers and the disks; the pieces A and B should then be glued to
the ends of the twigs projecting beyond the disks, to fasten the hook
holder together, and to be used for handles by which it may be lifted
from the box. If the hooks are dry when they are stuck into the corks
which form the center, they will keep in good condition indefinitely,
and their points will never be dulled by coming in contact with the tin
sides of the box or with each other.--C. A. King, East Kingston, N. H.
Improvement on Pocket Flash Lamps
[Illustration]
It is often desirable to concentrate the rays from a pocket flash lamp
on a limited area rather than spreading them, as is the case with many
lamps of this type. The addition of a hood, which may be slipped over
the lens, as shown in the illustration, concentrates the light in this
manner. A strip of sheet brass, about ¹⁄₃₂ in. thick, 4 in. long, and
³⁄₄ in. wide, was drilled at the center, forming an opening of the
same diameter as the lens. A brass tube was soldered to fit over the
hole. The ends of the strip were bent back at right angles, to hold the
device firmly against the sides of the flash lamp. The lamp is used
in the ordinary fashion, and the clip may be removed quickly when not
needed. It may be plated or finished to suit the metal parts of the
lamp.--Ralph W. Tillotson, Erie, Pa.
Testing Dry Cells with Light Bulb
[Illustration]
Tests of batteries for telephones, doorbells, and similar appliances,
may be made by the use of a lamp from a pocket flash light. Remove the
reflector and lamp and connect them with the poles of each cell to be
tested, as shown in the sketch. The glow of the lamp is proportional
to the amount of life in the cell. Very often but one dead cell will
be found to cause trouble. By testing carefully the good cells may be
retained and new ones substituted for those worn out.
Loading Box to Dispense with Dark Room
When a daylight developing tank is used, a dark room is needed only for
loading the plate holders and for transferring exposed plates to the
tank. These operations may be performed satisfactorily in darkness,
using a large box with holes made in the side to admit the hands,
as shown in the sketch. The box may be made of light wood or stout
cardboard. The sleeves fitted to the openings are provided with elastic
bands to insure that no light creeps in at the edges. The holders,
plates, and sponge should be arranged conveniently in the box before
beginning operations.
[Illustration: A Dark Room Is Unnecessary for the Loading of Plates
When the Device Shown is Used]
The box must be made light-proof by lining it with black cloth if
necessary. If any difficulty is experienced in identifying the film
side of the plates they may be marked with minute tabs at the corner on
the film side, or identified by moistening the finger tip on the sponge
and testing for a slight stickiness of the film side at the extreme
corner. A red window might be fitted into the box, but the device has
been found satisfactory without it.--Contributed by H. J. Gray, Lewes,
Sussex, England.
* * * * *
¶New brooms should be soaked in strong, hot salt water. This toughens
the bristles and makes them last much longer.
Rubber Bands Made from Old Inner Tubes
Old inner tubes of bicycles, or other vehicles, may be cut into rubber
bands of various widths which will be found to give good service. The
tubes should be laid flat on a hard piece of board, or a piece of sheet
zinc, and the bands cut off one at a time with a sharp knife held
against a straightedge. In cutting them on wood, it is best to use a
close-grained stock and to cut across the grain of the wood.
Sailors’ Sweetheart Picture Frame
[Illustration: The Center Panel is Reserved for the Sailor’s
Sweetheart, and in the Others Pictures of Relatives are Placed]
The boys on United States battleships are fond of making trinkets and
souvenirs to be sent home, and the sailors’ sweetheart picture frame
shown in the sketch is a favorite. Speaking from experience, I know
that many “landlubbers” will be interested in this novelty, although
coming from a man-of-war makes it more interesting. I have been there
and, therefore, I know. The place of honor in the center is of course
reserved for the lady. The smaller picture openings may be filled with
penny pictures of father and mother, or other relatives.--Contributed
by Charles Rorer, Bridgeport, Connecticut.
[Illustration: Woven Reed Furniture
BY CHARLES M. MILLER
Taborets and Small Tables for the Summer Veranda]
[The various materials referred to in this article by number or size
were described in detail in an article on “A Reed Basket,” in the Boy
Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.]
Utility and ready portability are well recognized features of
woven-reed furniture, but the qualities which make it especially
attractive for summer use in the open air, or on the veranda, are its
inviting comfort and graceful lines. While furniture of this type
arranged in suites makes a particularly harmonious showing, individual
pieces may be used in combination with other furniture, lending a
touch of variety. Small tables or taborets, of light weight and simple
design, may be made by the novice, and may be adapted to a variety of
uses. Footstools, jardinière stands, sewing tables, yard tables, and
smoking stands are some of the possibilities. Three representative
types are shown in Figs. 1 to 3, and the general method of construction
as well as the details of the weaving are also illustrated.
A serviceable taboret or stand is illustrated in Fig. 1. It is 18 in.
high, and 17 in. in diameter on the top. The sides are 9 in. wide at
the top and 14 in. at the bottom.
The framework for the top of the stand consists of a disk of wood,
16 in. in diameter, with a similar one, 14 in. in diameter, directly
underneath, the edge being set under 1 in. all around. Four legs of
1-in. doweling support it, and two cross braces of doweling are placed
between diagonally opposite corner posts, behind the woven portions of
the side. The grain of the wood in the upper disk should run at right
angles to that of the lower, to prevent warping, and the disks should
be fastened together with nails or screws. Avoid putting them into the
lower disk, where the legs are to be fixed.
To locate the position for the legs, draw a diameter on the under
side of the top, as at A, Fig. 4, and 4 in. on either side of it draw
parallel lines B and C. Draw another diameter, D, at right angles to A,
and draw the parallel lines E and F 4 in. from the diameter D. Where
the four outside lines intersect will be the centers of the holes for
the legs. These holes are not bored perpendicularly, but are slanted to
conform to the slant of the leg. A template should be used in guiding
the bit, as shown at G, Fig. 4. It may be constructed of wood, 3 in.
wide and 5 in. long, Fig. 5. Place the gauge just outside the edge of
the hole to be bored. Nail it to the board lightly on the diagonal, as
shown, and guide the bit against it.
Before the legs are fixed into place finally, the holes for the spokes
of the side should be bored. The parallel lines of Fig. 4 now serve
another purpose, that of giving the location of the spokes. Place one
spoke ¹⁄₂ in. from each leg, and the others 1 in. apart. The legs are
utilized as spokes in the weaving. The spokes should be double, and
the extra spokes may be inserted beside the original ones, after the
weaving has progressed a few rounds. Number 5 reed should be used for
the spokes and No. 4 reed for the weavers, which are woven back and
forth around the spokes.
Drive the legs into their sockets, applying glue, and pin them with
nails, as at H, Fig. 4. Tack strips on the bottoms of two pairs of
legs and then fasten two strips to brace them, as shown in Fig. 6. The
strips should be put on and the distance between the legs spaced before
the glue sets.
It is best to weave the sides before beginning the top, so as to
prevent rubbing the woven top while weaving the sides, with the stand
inverted. The side spokes should be 2 ft. long and should be set into
the top 1 in., with glue. Turn the top of the stand down on a table,
and begin the weaving at the under side of the top. Single weaving is
used for the sides, every other round passing twice around the legs.
There being four sides in the construction, there will be an even
number of spokes, even though there should be an odd number to each
side. The weaving would thus repeat itself, in going behind and before
the same spoke each time. This is not desirable in this construction,
and a change should be made each round. To do this, go over two spokes,
instead of one, at the finish of a round. Such a “skip” is an Indian
method, and forms a design that may be carried in slanting lines back
and forth down the side of the stand. It is best to confine these
“skips” to one side. Another way to overcome the repeat, as the weaving
in and out around the same spokes in two successive layers is called,
is to insert an extra spoke on one side, thus making an odd number of
spokes around the stand. It is necessary then to conform the design of
the open work for this side to the number of spokes. The design for the
open work shown in Fig. 2 will be used for the stand illustrated in
Fig. 1, and to be described in detail. The first of the two methods of
overcoming the “repeat” will be used.
Insert the extra reed for doubling the spokes, after a few rounds have
been woven adjoining the top. The method of weaving from the corner
post and the making of the open design are shown in Figs. 7 and 8. The
method of “pairing” for winding the reed in and out of the spokes, is
shown in Figs. 9 and 10. The rear weaver of the pair of strands is
thrown over the forward weaver, back of the next spoke and out. The
fore weaver then becomes the rear one, and is thrown in like manner.
This process is repeated in order to make the complete rounds. Figure
9 shows the weaving from the side, and Fig. 10 is a view looking down
on top of the spokes and the edge of the weaving, shown in section.
Pairing gives a continuous rope twist to the two weavers, and an even
or odd number of spokes is equally suitable.
For the open designs of Fig. 2, one or more of which may be placed in
the side of the stand, the center spokes are left free, as shown in
Fig. 7. Before turning the first weaver back for the open work, as at
M, start a short weaver N about two spokes back from the opening, and
pair it with the regular weaver across the opening, and two spokes
beyond. In turning back on the spokes, the single weaver goes twice
around the spokes, as shown by the intermediate layers O. This is a
short bend and the weavers must be very soft. Use short ones and wet
them frequently with a sponge. A sectional view of the weaving at the
opening is shown in Fig. 8, as it joins with the weaving around the
corner posts. At K, the weaver turns back on a double thickness of
reed, and at L, a short spoke is set back of the other two, and the
weaver is wound around the three, thus lessening the abruptness of the
winding. The latter method is the better. At the horizontal center of
the opening, two rounds continue across the opening and around the
stand. Pair a short piece of reed across at the finish of the openings,
as was done at the lower end at N, Fig. 7.
After weaving to within 5 in. of the bottom of the legs, cut off the
extra member of the double spokes, and soak the ends of the remaining
spokes in water. Braid them into the border finish, as shown in Fig. 1.
The corner posts serve as spoke spaces, and the spokes nearest them are
wound around the bottom ends of the legs. Short spokes may be inserted
beside the posts and wound around them if the ends of the spokes are
not long enough for this purpose.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 5
FIG. 6
FIG. 7
FIG. 4
FIG. 11
FIG. 12
FIG. 8
FIG. 19
FIG. 15
FIG. 16
FIG. 20
FIG. 9
FIG. 13
FIG. 14
FIG. 10
FIG. 17
FIG. 18
Taborets, of Light Weight and Simple Design, may be Made by the Novice
and Adapted to a Variety of Uses in the Home. They Are Particularly
Attractive for the Summer Veranda. Sewing Tables, Jardinière Stands,
Taborets, Footstools, Card Tables, and Smoking Stands Are Some of
the Possibilities. A Taboret, or Small Stand, is Illustrated in Fig.
1, and the Details of Its Construction are Also Shown. The Tall
Stand illustrated in Fig. 2 Involves the Same General Principles of
Construction, Modified to Suit the Framework. The Footstool Shown in
Fig. 3 Is Typical of Stands Having Vertical Sides]
The top may be made next. Holes are bored horizontally into the edge
of the under disk, as shown in Figs. 4 and 11. In Fig. 12 the holes
are shown bored into the edge on an angle. This method gives a thicker
rolled edge to the top, although both methods are satisfactory. These
holes must be bored before the work on the top is begun. There are two
ways of beginning the weaving for the top. The radial spokes may cross
each other in groups of four, the upper and lower courses being bound
together with winding reed, as shown in Fig. 13, or a small maple disk
may be used as a center from which the spokes radiate, as shown in
Figs. 14 and 20. The center-disk method is not difficult, and is used
extensively. The other type is novel, and also quite feasible.
The spokes for the method shown in Fig. 13 are bound together in the
following manner: Place two spokes at right angles to each other and
wind them with winding reed, the end of the latter beginning between
the two spokes, as shown at P, Fig. 15. The perpendicular spoke is
uppermost. Add a second perpendicular spoke and bind it into place, as
at Q. Continue this process until four perpendicular spokes have been
bound in as at R. Place a second horizontal reed into position and
go over each vertical spoke with a separate winding, as in the first
course. Continue until four horizontal spokes are bound in, and the
end of the winding reed is looped around the last, as shown at S. The
spokes should be of No. 5 reed, and 24 in. long.
Four groups of four spokes each will result by following out the
process described. Separate the spokes by drawing the outer ones into
the corner spaces. They should have the appearance of spokes in a
wheel, as in Fig. 16. Use two weavers of No. 4 reed, in the pairing
weave, as shown in Fig. 16, and in detail in Figs. 9 and 10. Continue
the pairing weave until a center, 8 in. in diameter, is woven. Crowd
up the weaving closely, for the appearance of the top will depend
much on the first few rounds. Hold the center with the left hand, and
manipulate the weavers until they are well seated in their proper
places.
When a few rounds have been woven, nail the center securely to its
place on the middle of the top. This will leave both hands free for the
weaving. After a disk, 8 in. in diameter, has been woven, begin the
triple weave illustrated in Figs. 17 and 18. As the triple weave is
begun, add another spoke, 8 in. long, between each pair, all around the
top, making 16 new and 16 original spokes. When two or three rounds are
woven, the new spokes will become secure. Continue the triple weave to
the edge of the top. Measure and cut the end of the spokes to uniform
length. Curve the ends over the edge to see how much will be needed
before cutting, allowing about ¹⁄₂ in. for insertion into the holes in
the edge.
Wet the ends of the spokes with water until they are pliable enough for
the curve. Bending and tying them down while wet and permitting them
to dry in this position, as shown in Fig. 19, is desirable also. Weave
down the curve of the roll and insert the ends of the spokes in their
respective holes with glue. Then with the single, plain weave on the
under side of the roll, weave well up to the ends of the spokes.
For the disk-center method of construction, as shown in Figs. 14
and 20, use ¹⁄₂-in. maple, and cut it 5 in. in diameter for the
centerpiece. To locate holes on the edge of the disk draw a line
³⁄₁₆ in. from the upper edge and mark off spaces 1 in. apart, except
four, which are made ¹⁵⁄₁₆ in. apart, to make a convenient division,
practically uniform. Bore the holes ³⁄₄ in. deep. Number 5 reed is
used for the spokes and No. 4 reed for the weavers. The disk should
be toenailed around its edge with brads, fixing it firmly to the top
before the spokes are inserted. Proceed with the pairing weave, as in
the other method described, until 2 in. of the spokes is covered; then
change to the triple weave and add additional spokes. Proceed as with
the other type from this point on.
The taboret is braced by two 1-in. dowel rods, placed 2 in. above the
bottom roll of the sides and extending from one corner to the other,
diagonally. Their crossing at the center may be made into a halved
joint, by cutting away one-half of each rod on the adjacent edges. The
ends are fitted closely into the corners, and are nailed to the legs.
A taller stand or small table, the side weaving of which has been
described as applied to the taboret shown in Fig. 1, is illustrated
in Fig. 2. The construction in general is similar. A lighter roll is
used for the top, and the bottom ends of the legs are curved outward
slightly. The legs are curved by steaming the ends of the corner posts,
clamping them into position, and permitting them to dry.
The footstool, shown in Fig. 3, may be made as a miniature stand, with
vertical legs, and the spokes set in a circle under the top board. The
spokes and weavers will carry the form, if well woven. The stool may
also be braced, to withstand hard usage. It should be about 12 in. in
diameter at the top, 10 in. in diameter for the body, and 6 in. in
height.
The method of forming the opening shown in the side of the taboret in
Fig. 1, and the weaving of the construction, will be readily understood
from the method described. The principles and methods presented may
be applied readily to other construction of the same general type.
The physical limitations of reed, as a constructive material, and the
necessity for a substantial framework must always be considered in such
adaptations in order to obtain satisfactory results.
* * * * *
¶One ounce of nitrate of iron added to 8 oz. of hyposulphite of soda
in a gallon of water and applied hot, produces a green finish on
brass.
Coaster with Safety Brake
[Illustration: The Brake Is a Worth-While Addition to the Coaster from
the Standpoint of Safety]
Coasting on homemade devices is much enjoyed by children, but often
accompanied with dangers because of difficulty in stopping quickly. The
sketch shows a method of applying a simple brake to such a coaster,
and the materials used may be obtained easily by boys in the home. The
rubber mat indicated in the sketch gives a secure footing. The brake
consists of a piece of wood, about 10 in. long and 3 in. wide. It is
hinged to the base and held in a raised position by a coiled string,
attached near the top of the device. A powerful pressure is obtained by
throwing the rider’s weight on the pedal.
Fountain-Pen Wrench
[Illustration: The Eraser Aids in Gripping the Barrel]
Experiencing considerable difficulty in unfastening the parts of
my fountain pen, I pressed into service an eraser in the method
illustrated. The grip on the pen parts was positive and resulted in
quickly releasing them without marring the surface or injuring the
fingers.--Contributed by Charles R. Mellen, Jr., Geneva, N. Y.
Diving Tower for the Summer Camp
Aquatic pleasures and sports at a summer camp or lake may be
considerably enlivened by the building of a diving tower like that
shown in the sketch. It has proved very successful at a boys’ summer
camp at Crystal Lake, Ill. The boys have made a practice for several
years of building a tower early each swimming season on the opening of
their camp in July and disposing of it for about $5 at the close of the
camp some weeks later. This covers the cost of the lumber, and several
resorts and cottages now boast towers made by the campers.
[Illustration: Boys at a Summer Camp Construct a Diving Tower Each
Summer and Dispose of It for the Cost of the Lumber When They Break
Camp. The Tower is Built Largely of Two by Four-Inch Stock and is
Weighted with a Box of Stone. At the Right Is a Reproduction of a
Photograph Showing the Builders Putting Their Diving Tower to Use]
The tower is built largely of 2 by 4-in. stock. The longer pieces at
the corners are 12 ft. in length, slanted so that the lower end of the
tower is 7 ft. square and the platform at the top 3 ft. square. The
handrail at the top is fixed to extensions of the rear uprights. A
spring board is fastened on two horizontal braces near the middle of
the tower, and is reached by the ladder. The structure is built on the
shore and towed out to its position. It is sunk and weighted by the box
of stone supported on cross braces.--Contributed by F. D. Lewis.
Gas Mantles Made at Home
I spent several interesting hours in experimenting with gas mantles
which I made at home, and the process should be of interest to others.
While I did not succeed in making mantles of the quality of the
commercial article, they were nevertheless successful and gave light.
Magnesium produces a white light when ignited. By using common Epsom
salts, which contain magnesium sulphate, I made a strong solution in
distilled water. I soaked a piece of gauze bandage in the solution,
dried it carefully and soaked it again a number of times, drying it
after each immersion. By this time the cloth was stiff with the dry
salt. When held in a flame, the cloth catches fire and burns out,
leaving the skeleton of magnesium sulphate. This framework, when held
in the flame, glows with an intense white light. I shaped a piece of
the gauze like a commercial mantle and dipped it into the solution as
explained. It proved quite satisfactory.--Contributed by Victor E.
Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.
Whistle Warns of Fish Catch
[Illustration: When the Fish Strikes the Bait the Water is Forced Up
into the Whistle Suddenly, and the Escaping Air Warns the Fisherman]
A toy railroad wheel, a piece of hollow cane, and pieces of wire
are the materials necessary for making the whistle shown in the
illustration, which warns a fisherman that a fish is attempting to
make away with his bait. The wheel is fitted into the end of the cane
and wedged into place to form a tight joint. The wires are formed into
loops at the ends of the cane and fixed to it. The whistle is attached
to the fishline, as shown, with the open end down and slightly below
the surface of the water. The fishpole may be fixed so that the whistle
will remain in this position while the fisherman is at ease in the
shade near by. When the fish attempts to make away with the bait, as
shown in the sketch, the water forces the air in the upper part of the
cane out through the center hole of the wheel, and a whistling sound is
the result.
Anchor for a Canoe or Small Boat
Small craft, particularly those used for fishing or on streams
where a current is encountered, should be provided with an anchor.
The illustration gives details for making one that is simple in
construction and inexpensive. It weighs about five pounds, and is heavy
enough for light craft up to 18 ft. long.
[Illustration: This Homemade Anchor Is a Practical Addition to the
Equipment of a Canoe or Small Boat, and Weighs Five Pounds]
The main section was made of a piece of 1¹⁄₂-in. angle iron, 10 in.
long. The flukes, or endpieces, were made of sheet iron, 2 in. wide and
8 in. long, bent at a right angle, and riveted in place. The straps
which hold the link, permitting it to swing freely, were made of band
iron. The link was made of an old bicycle crank, into which a ring
was forged. It may be made of iron rod, forged into the desired shape
and fitted with a ring. A convenient method of handling the anchor on
a boat is to run the line through a pulley at the bow and fasten the
end of it to a cleat, near the seat of the person handling the craft.
Care must be taken, in a canoe or small boat, that sufficient line is
provided to reach the bottom of the anchorage, as otherwise the craft
may be overturned.--Contributed by B. E. Dobree, Battleford, Sask.,
Canada.
* * * * *
¶The use of gasoline instead of turpentine for a thinner will prevent
the sagging of colors in striping.
Oiler for a Hand-Drill Press
[Illustration]
On stationary hand-power drill presses, where both hands are required
to turn the crank and hold the work, some means must be provided for
applying lubricant to the drill, or the machine would have to be
stopped from time to time to apply the oil. A very handy arrangement,
for pouring the oil on automatically, is to make a support of wire
to hold an oilcan, as shown. This will provide a slow and constant
dropping of oil on the bit.--Contributed by Bert Verne, San Diego, Cal.
Bearing for Playground Swings
[Illustration]
To have the playground swing work easily and without friction make the
hangers as shown in the sketch. The ring in the hooks produces a slight
rolling action and gives the swing a free motion.--Contributed by Edwin
J. Bachman, Jr., Fullerton, Pa.
Die in a Bottle
[Illustration]
The die is made of cork and the spots painted white. A small round
bottle is procured, the die is placed in it and the bottle is filled
with water. Be sure to have enough water to prevent any air bubbles
when it is corked tightly. The cork is then sealed in the bottle. If
there is an air bubble, the cork die will not work well.
If the bottle is held bottom up, the cork die will spin around and
float up against the bottom of the bottle where the number of spots can
be seen. It is impossible to manipulate the die to turn up any desired
spots, this being left entirely to chance. A number of bottles can be
prepared so that any of the dice games can be played.--Contributed by
Henry J. Marion, Pontiac, Michigan.
Small Hook for Hanging a Picture
[Illustration]
After an unsuccessful attempt to hang a small picture with a common
pin, I devised the following method: After bending about ³⁄₈ in. of
the point on an ordinary pin to an angle of about 45 deg. and bending
up the other end in the opposite direction to form a hook, I drove the
point on a downward slant into the wall. It went in easily and did not
mar the plaster. When making a test I found that the hook would readily
support a weight of several pounds.--Contributed by C. P. Smith, E.
Radford, Va.
Covering Hinge Wings
[Illustration]
In making fancy boxes where ordinary hinges are used, a much neater job
can be done if as much of the hinge as possible is covered. This can
be done by carefully raising a sliver with a sharp chisel as at A. The
wings are bent at an angle, as shown at B, and are then set in place,
as shown at C. The sliver is carefully glued back in place over the
hinge wing, and the surface is leveled with sandpaper.
* * * * *
¶A bit of rubber insulation stripped from an electric wire makes an
excellent holder for a scarfpin.
How to Make Hammocks
BY CHARLES M. MILLER
PART I--A Twine Hammock
Cord hammocks may be made in two or more different ways, the knots
being formed by the simple overhand tie, Fig. 1; the flat reef knot,
Fig. 2; the Solomon’s knot, Fig. 3, or by the triple throw-over, Fig.
4; or they can be knotted by the process known as netting, Fig. 5, in
which a special needle, or shuttle, is used.
[Illustration: When Making a Hammock With the Simple Overhand, Flat
Reef, or Solomon’s Knot, Loop All the Pairs of Cords at the Center
about a Rod]
In using any one of the first three methods of making the knots it is
necessary to have cords arranged in pairs and long enough to reach from
one end of the hammock to the other, allowing only sufficient length
for the take-up in tying the knots and the spread of the meshes. The
overhand knot is large, and the Solomon’s knot is a little unwieldy,
but is considered more beautiful when tied. The flat reef knot is
small, is easily tied and will not slip. The netting process has a good
knot and has the advantage of a short single cord, as the meshes are
made independently and the cord is carried on the netting needle.
It is a great advantage, when making a hammock with the simple
overhand, the flat reef, or the Solomon’s knot, to loop all the pairs
of cords at the center about a rod, Fig. 6--which may be any stick such
as an old broom handle--knotting from the center toward each end, one
side being tied, and then the other. When the first pairs are being
tied, the opposite ends should be looped up together out of the way.
Even half the length of a hammock makes a long cord to be drawn through
each time a knot is tied, and each string can be wound about the
fingers into a little bundle and secured with a half hitch, using the
same cord, and left hanging, as shown in Fig. 7, allowing sufficient
cord free to throw large loops in the tying, and to make about 10
additional meshes. About 3 ft. would be a good length to be left free.
It will be necessary to have 24 pairs of cords--48 cords in all--each
18 ft. long to make a hammock by the first two methods of tying the
knots. Seine twine of medium-hard twist and 24-ply can be obtained
from a store carrying sporting goods, and is about the best material
to use for this purpose. When these pairs of cords are looped on the
center rod, and the rod has been anchored to a wall, as shown in Fig.
8, begin by placing the mesh stick, or rather the mesh post, Fig. 9,
between the first pair of cords, A and B, at the left end of the center
rod, as in Fig. 8 and Fig. 6. The simple device illustrated in Fig. 9
is very useful for tying any one of the three first-described knots.
The device needs no explanation other than the illustration. It will be
seen that there are two sizes on the top of the post; the smaller is
for the first time across only. The mesh post should be of convenient
height for a person when sitting on an ordinary chair. One foot rests
on the base as the tying proceeds, but there is no pulling over, as the
tie draws both ways on the post, this also doing away with the pull on
the center rod.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 4
FIG. 3
FIG. 5
The Simple Overhand, Flat Reef, Solomon’s Knot, Triple Throw-Over, and
Netting Ties]
The cord to the right, B, is taken in the right hand and thrown over
the left cord A, Fig. 8, and is held by the left hand. The left cord A
is then tucked down behind the right, as shown in Fig. 10. If the right
cord goes over in making the first loop, the same cord B must also go
over in the second throw, as in Fig. 11, in order to have a proper
square knot that will not slip. The end of A is then tucked under B, as
shown by the dotted lines. This makes a very serviceable knot for the
hammock, but can be also used for other purposes. The knot is shown in
Fig. 2. Draw it up tightly, very hard, for knotting is not worth much
if it is not tied well.
In case the simple overhand knot is preferred, the mesh post is placed
between the first pair as before, and cords A and B are brought to the
front as in Fig. 12, but are carried parallel into a large loop that is
thrown over as illustrated, then tucked up through as indicated by the
dotted lines. The thumb and first finger of the left hand now slide up
to the point P, while the right hand pulls up the loop as it nears the
finish, the thumb and first finger crowding the loop down hard against
the mesh post. The small part is used for the first row across. The
knot formed is shown in Fig. 1.
[Illustration: FIG. 6
FIG. 10
FIG. 7
FIG. 9
FIG. 8
FIG. 11
The Mesh Post Has Two Sizes on Its Upper End, the Smaller for Knotting
the First Row of Meshes, and the Other for the Remaining Rows. This
Illustration Also Shows the Manner of Tying the Knots]
After tying the first pair of cords using the knot preferred, slip
the first mesh so made off the tying post and place the post between
C and D, which is the next, or second, pair. Tie the second pair and
pass on to the third pair, which is E and F. Continue moving and tying
until all the 24 pairs of cords have been similarly knotted in their
first mesh. The last knotting will be the twenty-fourth pair, which is
represented by the cords marked Y and Z. Instead of tying cords of the
same pairs on the return trip across, one cord Y of the twenty-fourth
pair is tied with one cord X of the twenty-third pair, and the other
cord W of the twenty-third pair is tied with the cord V of the twenty
second pair, and so on across the series.
On the second row of tying, the post is first placed between cords Y
and X and they are knotted together, but instead of tying about the
small part of the post the larger size is used. After cords Y and X
have been tied, cords W and V are combined. It will be seen that this
is tying the pairs together instead of combining the two cords of the
same pair. The third time across the combinations are the same as in
the first row. The large mesh is used on all but the first row. The
alternations of rows is continued until the cords are tied to within
2¹⁄₂ ft. of the end.
[Illustration: FIG. 12
FIG. 13
Tying the Overhand Knot and How to Run the First and Second Rows Across]
Pull out the center rod, insert it in the second row of meshes, loosen
the ends that were looped up and begin the knotting of the opposite
ends of the cords. When both sides are completed to within 2¹⁄₂ ft. of
the ends, the center rod is removed and inserted in the last row of
meshes. Another simple device will be found efficient, which consists
of a board, 30 in. long, three or more inches wide and 1 in. thick,
with three nails driven in slanting, as shown in Fig. 14, to prevent
the ring and rod from slipping off as the tying proceeds. One 2¹⁄₂-in.
galvanized ring will be required for each end. The ring is attached to
the single nail at the end with a string. This will be found better
than just slipping the ring over the nail, as it is necessary to have
a little more play in putting the cords through for the tying. The
distance from the rod to the ring should be 2 ft. The tie is made in
pairs as before, one cord going under and the other over the side of
the ring, using the flat reef knot. There will be a few inches of ends
remaining after the tie is made and these are brought back to the main
body of the cord and wound with an extra cord used for that purpose.
The winding is started by looping the end of the extra cord, or string,
about the whole bundle of cord together with the ends, pulling tightly
and tying securely with the flat reef knot. This is illustrated in Fig.
15. The winding should be about 1¹⁄₂ in. long where the turned-back
ends are cut off. Each time the cord is wound about the bundle it
should be looped through its own winding and drawn tightly. This is
practically the buttonhole loop. To finish the winding the cord should
be given a double looping through its own winding; then with an awl,
or other pointed tool, work a way through the under side of the other
windings so that the end may be brought out farther back and pulled
tightly, to prevent unwinding when the pull comes on the hammock.
Attach the ring to the opposite end in the same manner and the hammock
is complete.
[Illustration: Attaching the Rings to the Ends of the Cords and the
Binding near the Rings: All the Pairs of Cords are Looped about a Rod
in the Center, and the Knots are Made toward the Ends]
The edge can be bound the same as a tennis net, or a rope can be run
through the outside meshes lengthwise, as desired. A very pretty effect
can be obtained by knotting, in a similar manner to the body of the
hammock, an apron fringe for the sides.
Homemade Section Liner
For the rapid and uniform hatching of cross sections this little
device will be found to give results equaling most of the high-priced
instruments that can be purchased. It consists of a hardwood block used
in connection with a 45° triangle. The corners are cut to permit the
triangle to slide the desired distance; then, by alternately sliding
the triangle and block with the left hand, equal spacings can be drawn
without measurements of any kind.
[Illustration: Block Used in a Triangle to Move It at Equal Distances
for Making Section Lines]
Two different spacings may be drawn with one block by reversing it
and two blocks having a different location of the angles will give
four spacings, which is about all the draftsman requires in ordinary
practice. No alteration of the triangle is required with this device,
and it requires but little skill to construct it.--Contributed by J. A.
Shelly, Brooklyn, N. Y.
Tray Attachment for Developing Films
[Illustration: Roller Attached to Tray for Use in Developing a
Full-Length Film]
An ordinary tray can be used for film development, when there is no
tank at hand, by the use of the attachment shown in the sketch. It
consists of a strip of sheet metal, or tin, bent to fit under the tray
and up on both sides to provide bearings for a roller. The roller is
made of hard rubber and should be of such size that its lower surface
will be under the developer in the tray. The film is drawn back and
forth under this roller.
An Automatic Window Closer
The window closer consists of a weight, A, attached to one end of a
cord, B, which runs through several pulleys and has its other end
attached to a hook in the center of the window sash, as shown in Fig.
1. The weight A is held in an elevated position by a small trigger
which is operated with an electromagnet.
The arrangement of the weight and its control is shown in Fig. 2. The
latch C is held in a horizontal position by an extension on the arm
D, which in turn is held by a latch, E. The latch C is mounted on the
same supporting shaft as the arm D, and they are connected with a coil
spring having the tension in such a direction that it holds the latch
C down on the extension of the arm D. When the weight moves up through
the box the latch C will rise and allow it to pass down beside it. The
latch holding the lower end of the arm D may be released by means of an
ordinary vibrating bell arranged so that its clapper will strike the
extension F on the latch and thus cause its upper end to move from the
engagement with the arm D. A small coil spring is attached to the arm
D so that it will be returned to its vertical position when the weight
has passed C and thus make it ready for the next operation without any
adjustment except raising the weight and setting the clock.
[Illustration: FIG. 2
FIG. 1
FIG. 3
The Window is Automatically Closed by a Weight at the Time Set on the
Alarm Clock When the Key Closes the Electric Circuit, Causing the
Magnet to Release the Latch]
A diagram of the electrical circuit is shown in Fig. 3, in which G
represents the electromagnet to trip the trigger that supports the
weight, and H the contact which remains open until the weight is raised
to the upper position, when the spring J is forced against the spring
K and closes the circuit. The circuit still remains broken until the
contact L is closed by the key on the alarm clock, which is set in a
vertical position between two springs representing the terminals of the
wire. The contact H should be so located on the housing for the weight
that it will be closed only when the weight is resting on the latch C.
The circuit is then opened as soon as the latch C is released, and the
clapper will stop vibrating.
* * * * *
¶When a pencil becomes too short for the hand, apply paste to about 1
in. of the rubber end, roll on a sheet of paper about 6 in. long, and
almost all of the pencil can be used.
How to Make Hammocks
BY CHARLES M. MILLER
PART II--A Netted Hammock
A good hammock should be about 12 ft. long, which includes 8 ft. of
network and 2 ft., at each end, of long cords that are attached to
rings. Seine twine, of 24-ply, is the best material and it will take
1¹⁄₂ lb. to make a hammock. The twine comes in ¹⁄₂-lb. skeins and
should be wound into balls to keep it from knotting before the right
time. Two galvanized rings, about 2¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, are required.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 3
FIG. 2
The Tools Necessary Consist of a Needle or Shuttle, a Guage Board, and
a Mesh Stick]
The equipment for netting a hammock consists of a wood needle, or
shuttle, a gauge board for the long meshes at the ends, and a mesh
stick for the regular netting of the main body of the hammock, all of
which will be described in detail.
The shuttle is made of wood and is 12 in. long, 1¹⁄₄ in. wide, and ¹⁄₄
in. thick. The best material to use is maple or other hard wood, but
very satisfactory ones can be cut from good-grained pine. The sketch,
Fig. 1, shows the general shape of the shuttle, one end being pointed
and the other forked. Lay out the pointed end before beginning to cut
down to size. Place a compass at the center of the end, and with a
radius of 1¹⁄₂ in. describe the arc AB. With the intersections of this
arc and the side lines of the needle, C and D, as centers, and the same
radius, 1¹⁄₂ in., cut the arc AB at E and F. With E and F as centers
draw the curves of the end of the shuttle. The reason for placing the
centers outside of the shuttle lines is to obtain a longer curve to the
end. The curves can be drawn free-hand but will then not be so good.
The space across the needle at GH is divided into five ¹⁄₄-in.
divisions. The centers of the holes J and K at the base of the tongue
are 3¹⁄₂ in. from the pointed end. The opening is 2³⁄₄ in. long. Bore
a ¹⁄₄-in. hole at the right end of the opening, and just to the left
three holes, as shown by the dotted lines. With a coping saw cut out
along the lines and finish with a knife, file and sandpaper. Round off
the edges as shown by the sectional detail. It is well to bevel the
curve at L so that the shuttle will wind easily. The fork is ³⁄₄ in.
deep, each prong being ¹⁄₄ in wide. Slant the point of the shuttle and
round off all edges throughout and sandpaper smooth.
The gauge board, Fig. 2, is used for making the long meshes at both
ends of the hammock. It is a board about 3 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and
1 in. thick. An eight-penny nail is driven into the board 1 in. from
the right edge and 2 in. from the end, as shown by M, allowing it to
project about 1 in. and slanting a little toward the end; the other
nail N will be located later.
The mesh stick, Fig. 3, should be made of maple, 8 in. long, 1³⁄₄ in.
wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick. Round off the edges and sandpaper them very
smooth.
The making of the net by a specially devised shuttle is called
“natting,” or netting, when done with a fine thread and a suitably
fine shuttle. Much may be done in unique lace-work designs and when
coarser material and large shuttles are used, such articles as fish
nets, tennis nets and hammocks may be made. The old knot used in
natting was difficult to learn and there was a knack to it that was
easily forgotten, but there is a slight modification of this knot that
is quite easy to learn and to make The modified knot will be the one
described.
The shuttle is first wound by looping the cord over the tongue, as
shown in Fig. 4, then bringing it down to the forked end and up to the
opening on the opposite side; then the cord is again looped over the
tongue and returned to the fork or place of starting. Continue winding
back and forth until the shuttle is full. The shuttle will accommodate
from 20 to 35 complete rounds. If the shuttle is too full it crowds in
passing through the meshes and delays the work.
[Illustration: FIG. 4
FIG. 5
The Shuttle is First Wound and the Long Loops at One End Formed over
the Gauge Stick]
Attach one of the galvanized rings by means of a short cord to the nail
in the gauge board, as shown in Fig. 2. At a point 2 ft. from the lower
edge of the ring, drive an eight-penny finishing nail, N. Tie the cord
end of the shuttle to the ring, bring the shuttle down and around the
nail N; then bring it back and pass it through the ring from the under
side. The cord will then appear as shown. A part of the ring projects
over the edge of the board to make it easier to pass the shuttle
through. Draw the cord up tightly and put the thumb on top of the cord
O, Fig. 5, to prevent it from slipping back, then throw a loop of the
cord to the left over the thumb and up over a portion of the ring and
pass the shuttle under the two taut cords and bring it up between the
thumb and the two cords, as shown. Draw the looped knot tight under the
thumb. Slip the long loop off the nail N and tie a simple knot at the
mark P. This last knot is tied in the long loop to prevent looseness.
Proceed with the next loop as with the first and repeat until there are
30 long meshes.
[Illustration: FIG. 6
FIG. 7
FIG. 8
After the Completion of the Long Meshes, the Ring is Anchored and the
Mesh Stick Brought into Use]
After completing these meshes anchor the ring by its short cord to a
hook or other stationary object. The anchorage should be a little above
the level for tying the knots of the net. Tie the cord of the shuttle
to the left outside loop and always work from the left to the right;
and the first time across see that the long meshes do not cross over
each other, but are kept in the order in which they are attached to the
ring.
After tying the cord to the mesh 1, Fig. 6, bring the mesh stick into
use. Pass the cord down over the mesh stick, drawing the lower end of
the loop down until it comes against the upper side of the mesh stick
and put the thumb down upon it in this position to prevent slipping.
Pass the shuttle up through the loop 2 and draw that down to the mesh
stick. Shift the thumb from the first position to the second. Throw
the cord to the left over the thumb and about the loop 2, as shown in
Fig. 7, and bring the shuttle under both of the cords of mesh 2 and up
between the large backward loop and the cords of the mesh 2. Without
removing the thumb draw up the knot very tight. This makes the first
netting knot. Continue the cord around the mesh stick, pass it up
through mesh 3, throw the backward loop, put the shuttle under and up
to the left of the mesh 3 and draw very tight, and do not allow a mesh
to be drawn down below the upper side of the mesh stick. Some of these
cautions are practically repeated, but if a mesh is allowed to get
irregular, it will give trouble in future operations.
[Illustration: FIG. 9
FIG. 10
A Square Knot is Used to Join the Ends of the Cord When Rewinding the
Shuttle]
Continue across the series until all of the long loops have been used
and this will bring the work to the right side. Flip the whole thing
over, and the cord will be at the left, ready to begin again. Slip all
the meshes off the mesh stick. It makes no difference when the meshes
are taken off the stick but they must all come off before a new row is
begun. Having the ring attached to the anchorage by a cord makes it
easy to flip the work over. Be sure to flip to the right and then to
the left alternately to prevent the twisting, which would result if
turned one way all the time.
[Illustration: FIG. 11
FIG. 12
The Gauge Board is Again Used for the Long Loops at the Finishing End,
Then the Cords are Wound]
The first mesh each time across is just a little different problem from
all the others, which may be better understood by reference to Fig.
8. The knots Q, R, and S are of the next previous series. The cord is
brought down over the mesh stick and up through mesh 1, and when the
loop is brought down it may not draw to the mesh stick at its center;
it is apt to do otherwise and a sideway pull is necessary, which is
pulled so that the knots Q and R are side by side, then the knot at
T may be tied. When the mesh 2 is drawn down it should pull to place
without shifting, and also all the others of that row.
Continue the use of the mesh stick until a net 8 ft. long is made. When
the cord gives out rewind the shuttle and tie with a small knot that
will not slip. The weaver’s knot is good if known, or the simple square
knot shown in Fig. 9 is very good. It is too easy to make to need
direction, but unless it is thrown over just right it will slip. Let U,
Fig. 8, represent the short cord and V the new piece to be added. Place
the cord V back of U and give U a complete turn around V, Fig. 9, and
bring them together at a point above U, then to the front. Repeat the
complete turn of U about V, shown by the dotted line, and pull tightly.
If analyzed, it consists of two loops that are just alike and linked
together as shown in Fig. 10.
When the 8 ft. of netting has been completed, proceed to make the long
loops as at the beginning. The same gauge board can be used, but the
tying occurs at both ends, and since the pairs cannot be knotted in
the center, two or three twists can be given by the second about the
first of each pair. The long loops and the net are attached together
as shown in Fig. 11. Slip one of the meshes of the last run over the
nail N, and when the cord comes down from the ring, the shuttle passes
through the same mesh, and when drawn up, the farthest point of the
mesh comes against the nail. After this long loop has been secured at
the ring, the first mesh is slipped off and the next put on. All of the
long loops at this end will be about three inches shorter than at the
other end, unless the finishing nail N is moved down. This will not be
necessary.
With a piece of cord about six feet long, start quite close to the ring
and wind all the cords of the long loops together. The winding should
be made very tight, and it is best to loop under with each coil. This
is shown in Fig. 12.
The hammock is now ready for use. Some like a soft, small rope run
through the outside edges lengthwise, others prefer a fringe, and
either can be added. The fringe can be attached about six meshes down
from the upper edge of the sides. The hammock should have a stretcher
at each end of the netted portion, but not as long as those required
for web hammocks.
Gourd Float for a Fishline
A unique as well as practical fishing-line float can be made of a small
gourd. After the gourd has dried sufficiently, wire loops, to hold the
line, are inserted, or rather, a single wire is run through and looped
at both ends. The contents of the gourd need not be removed. Dip the
float in a can of varnish, or apply the varnish with a brush.
Homemade Arc Light
Those who wish to produce an arc light for experimental purposes, or
for the brief periods required by photography, will find the method of
construction shown in the sketch very simple and inexpensive. Using the
short lengths of carbons discarded by moving-picture operators, there
is no difficulty in maintaining a good arc for 15 minutes, or more,
without once manipulating the adjusting screw at the top.
[Illustration: An Efficient Arc Light for Purposes Where a Light is
Required for a Short Time]
Only three pieces of wood are necessary besides the base, and in the
preparation of these no particular care is necessary except to have
the top arm swing freely up and down without any appreciable side
movement. The carbon holders are merely strips of heavy tin, which need
only be screwed up sufficiently tight to hold the carbons in place and
yet permit their being pushed up when the top adjusting screw will no
longer operate. This adjustment may be readily taken care of by means
of a long, slender wood screw with the point filed off and a metal disk
soldered to the top. Connections are made to the carbon holders either
under a screw head or by soldering the wires to the metal.
In operating any arc light on the commercial 110-volt current some
resistance must be placed in the circuit. An earthen jar of water with
two strips of tin or lead for electrodes, will answer every purpose.
* * * * *
¶A small leak in an oil or water pipe on an automobile can be
temporarily stopped by melting a piece of rubber over the hole.
Ornamental Pencil and Pincushion Holder
A nicely polished animal horn may be turned into an article of utility
instead of being merely used as a wall ornament, as shown in the
illustration. An old lamp base, heavy enough to balance the horn,
and secured to it with a bolt, is all that is needed to effect the
transformation.
[Illustration: Fastening a Horn to a Base to Make an Ornamental Pen or
Pincushion Holder]
Knife to Trim Magazines for Binding
[Illustration: Cutter Made of a Large Straight-Edge Knife for Trimming
Edges of Bound Magazines]
There has been a number of descriptions telling how to bind magazines,
but none how to trim the edges after having bound them. Desiring to
have my home-bound volumes appear as well as the other books, I made a
trimmer as follows:
Any large knife with a straight edge will do for the cutter. I used a
large hay knife. A ³⁄₈-in. hole was drilled in the untempered portion
near the back of the handle end. Two U-shaped supports were made of
metal and fastened to the top of an old table, between which the knife
was fastened with a bolt. A piece of timber, 6 ft. long, 4 in. wide,
and 2 in. thick, was used as a lever. One end of this piece had a
U-shaped notch cut in it to straddle the supports under the projecting
ends. A board was attached to the table top, having one straight edge
set where the knife edge would just pass it.
If the knife has a good sharp edge it will do very satisfactory work.
When the edges are trimmed the knife can be removed and used for its
original work.--Contributed by E. S. Mundell, Lowpoint, Ill.
How to Repair Rubber Gloves
While making a bunglesome job of patching a pair of rubber gloves,
which I used to keep the stains from my fingers while developing
photographic plates, a physician friend happened along and told me how
to do it properly. The method is as follows: Procure a piece of card,
such as heavy Bristol board used for filing cards; spread it on one
side, rather thick, with ordinary library paste and stick it to the
rubber tissue, preferably dentists’ rubber dam of light weight; smooth
it flat, and let the paste dry. When a patch is needed cut one out,
rubber and card together, and fit it to the cut in the glove. Put the
glove on the hand inside out, moisten the patch with cement, let it
dry for a few seconds and then press it in place hard. If the tear is
large, it is easier to lay the moistened patch down and fit the edges
of the tear to it, then press hard in place. After the cement has
thoroughly dried out, soak the patch in water and remove the bit of
card. This gives a patch fastened securely to the extreme edges; flat,
water-tight, and as fit to stand boiling as any patch, for sterilizing.
After removing the card, the glove is dusted with talcum.--Contributed
by J. S. Hogans, Uniontown, Pa.
Miniature Metal-Bound Chests
BY F. E. TUCK
Boys in a manual-training class became very enthusiastic over the
making of small chestlike boxes, bound with ornamental metal, and
adapted them to a great variety of uses. The boxes were designed
to suit the taste of the maker and for use as glove, handkerchief,
jewelry, toilet, treasure and other boxes, lined with silk, and
finished in wax and varnish, in various stains. Oak was used for
most of them, and the metals employed were largely copper and brass,
although silver is suitable for small boxes. They are simple in
construction, as shown in the working drawings, and can be made in the
home workshop. The photograph reproduced shows a group of boxes, for
various purposes, and in several styles of metal binding. The long box
at the top is for gloves or ties; the larger ones are for the boys’
personal use, caring for collars, handkerchiefs, etc.; the smaller
boxes are for the dresser, providing for the care of jewelry and
similar small articles. The boxes proved great favorites as gifts, and
the monogram of the recipient may be etched into the metal.
[Illustration: These Gift Boxes, Trimmed with Ornamental Metal, were
Made by Boys in a Manual-Training Class. A Long Glove Box is Shown
Above; the Larger Boxes Are for Handkerchiefs, and the Smaller Ones for
Jewelry and Trinkets]
Well-seasoned oak is the most suitable material for the making of
the boxes, as it harmonizes well with the plain metal trimmings. The
quarter-sawed variety is preferable, being more ornamental, and less
likely to warp or twist. For most of the boxes, stock ³⁄₈ in. thick is
suitable, although this may be cut down to ⁵⁄₁₆ in. for the smaller
boxes, if convenient. The method of joining the pieces is similar
in all the varieties of boxes, and the jewel box illustrated in the
working drawings will be taken as a specimen. The sides of the box
are butted against the ends, lapping over them, flush, and nailed
with small brads. The bottom is fitted between the sides and ends, and
nailed so that the nails are concealed by the metal bands, at the four
corners, and at other points, if bands are placed near the middle. The
stock for the box is cut and finished on all sides to the following
dimensions: all pieces to be ³⁄₈ in. thick; top, 4¹⁄₂ by 7¹⁄₂ in.; two
sides, 1⁷⁄₈ by 7 in.; two ends, 1⁷⁄₈ by 4 in.; bottom, 3¹⁄₄ by 6¹⁄₄
inches.
All the pieces should be scraped carefully to a smooth finish, and the
nails started with an awl, or a slightly flattened nail of the same
size, fitted into a hand drill. Extreme care must be taken, in nailing,
that the surface of the wood is not marred, which is likely to occur
if the nails are driven into the wood too rapidly, or without starting
holes for them. The feet are cut from a strip, ³⁄₈ in. thick and ³⁄₄
in. wide, the cut edges being sandpapered smooth without destroying the
squareness and the sharp corners. They are nailed to the bottom of the
box with brads, care being taken to have the end grain of each block at
the end of the box, particularly if the metal trimmings do not cover
the blocks.
The cover is fixed in place with small plain butts, countersunk into
the wood, one leaf into the top and the other into the back of the box.
A simpler method is to set both leaves of the hinge into the edge of
the back. Care must be taken in fitting the hinges that they are set in
line with the back of the box, and holes for the screws should be made
before driving them into place. Too much care cannot be taken with the
fitting of the hinges, as the proper fitting of the lid, both as to
resting level and being in line with the edges of the box, depends on
the fitting of the hinges.
After the construction work and nailing is completed, the box may be
sandpapered carefully, rubbing in the direction of the grain, and
being careful not to round off the edges unduly. The oversandpapering
of woodwork marks the work of the careless novice. The box should be
handled as little as possible while the metal trimmings are being
fitted, and, before the finish is applied, should be gone over lightly
with sandpaper to remove dirt. When the metal pieces are fitted, and
ready to be fastened in place, the finish may be applied to the box.
Warm browns or other dark-oak finishes, are best suited to the simple
style of chest, and the metal fittings. A coat of stain should be
applied, and this followed, when dry, by a coat of filler, rubbed well
into the pores of the wood. The filler should be permitted to dry hard
and the surface is then sandpapered very lightly with a fine grade
of paper--No. 00 is best. Do not rub through the filler or stain,
particularly at the corners. Wax is the most readily applied outer
finish. Several coats may be used to give a substantial finish. A coat
of shellac, followed by coats of rubbing varnish, dried well and rubbed
between coats with No. 00 sandpaper may be applied for a high-gloss
finish. This is a more involved process and requires that the varnish
be rubbed down with pumice stone and water, and finished with an oil
polish.
Copper or brass, of No. 20 gauge or lighter, is suitable for the making
of the trimmings. The details of the handles are shown in the sketch,
at the right. Cut a back plate, ⁷⁄₈ in. by 1¹⁄₄ in., and fit the handle
of wire to it by means of a strap, bent from a strip of metal, ³⁄₈
in. by ⁷⁄₈ in. The other bands are merely strips, ¹⁄₂ to ³⁄₄ in. in
width and fitted to the size of the box, where applied. Strap hinges
of the same metal may be made, but the most convenient method for the
amateur is to fit the metal strips into place at the hinges, merely as
ornamental features. Various types of locks may be fitted into the box,
and for the worker having the necessary skill, it is interesting to
make a hasp, as indicated in the sketch.
The designing and making of the metal trimmings affords unlimited
opportunity for originality, and a good plan is to fit the desired
strips, cut from paper, to the box before making them of the metal. It
is well to remember, in this connection, that the simple bands and
forms are better suited to the plain box than ornate trimmings. Having
determined upon suitable patterns for the metal strips, cut them from
the sheet with snips, or tinner’s shears, care being taken to produce
a smooth edge. A file may be used to remove roughnesses and to round
the edges of the metal slightly. The metal is fastened with escutcheon
pins, which add to the ornamental effect if properly spaced. Holes for
them must be drilled, or punched, through the metal.
[Illustration: The Construction of the Jewelry Box Is Typical of the
Others. The Handle is Shown in Detail. The Nailing of the Bottom and
the Fitting of the Lining are Shown at the Right]
The metal may be left smooth and polished, or hammered with the round
end of a ball-peen hammer, to produce the dented effect shown on
several of the boxes in the group. This, as well as other finishing of
the metal, must be done before it is fixed in place. Beautiful colors
may be given to the metal by heating it, and observing the colors as
they “run.” A trial will enable one to judge the proper heat for the
various colors, which “run” from a light straw to a deep purple, with
various reddish intermediate tones. A brown oxidized finish, or a
verd-antique--greenish--finish may also be obtained. The metal should
be polished with wax to preserve the finish if other than the latter
type is used.
The boxes are lined with silk or other suitable material. The method is
as follows: Cut cardboard pieces to fit against the inner sides of the
bottom, sides, and ends. Pad one side of them with cotton batting, and
cover with silk, gluing the edges of it on the back of the cardboard,
as shown in the sketch. By bending the pieces slightly, they may be
inserted and glued in place. Care must be taken in handling the glue,
that the silk is not soiled. Pads of felt, or chamois skin, may be
glued to the bottom of the feet of the box, so as not to mar the
surface upon which it rests.
The most popular boxes, which are especially suitable for gift
purposes, are the jewelry, glove, and handkerchief boxes. Their
dimensions are: jewelry box, 2³⁄₄ by 4 by 7¹⁄₂ in.; glove box, 3¹⁄₄
by 5 by 13 in.; handkerchief box, 4 by 6 by 10 in. Other sizes suited
to special purposes may, of course, be designed readily, and made in
walnut, mahogany, or other cabinet woods.
A Piano or Reading Lamp
BY WILLIAM E. FINKERNAGEL
[Illustration: This Lamp of Substantial Construction and Pleasing
Design may be Made at Small Cost. The Pedestal Assembled is Shown at
the Left and Details of the Parts and of the Metal Frame for the Shade,
Above]
The lamp illustrated was designed for use in reading, the doing of hand
work at which one is seated in a chair away from a table lamp, or for
lighting a piano rack. It is light, readily moved about, easily made,
and of pleasing design. It combines construction in wood and metal,
is inexpensive, and within the range of a careful amateur craftsman.
The pedestal is shown assembled at the left, and above are detailed
sketches of the parts. The construction of the shade, which is 18 in.
square, is shown at the right. The central post is 40 in. long and 2
in. square, and the base measures 16 in. on the arms.
The stock bill for the lamp is as follows:
1 piece, 2 by 2 in., oak, for post.
2 pieces, 1 by 3 by 16 in., oak, for base.
1 piece, 1 by 6 by 6 in., oak, for cap.
1 piece, 1 by 4 by 4 in., oak, for column base.
1 piece, 1 by 2 by 3 in., oak, for braces.
Copper or brass strip, 1 in. wide and ³⁄₃₂ in. thick, for shade
frame. Wire braces for shade.
Make all the pieces, smoothing and finishing their surfaces with a
scraper, before assembling the parts. The cap A may be made first.
Square the piece to 6 in. and cut a ¹⁄₄-in. chamfer around the upper
edge. Cut the 2 by 3-in. block on one of its diagonals and smooth it to
form the braces B. Square the ends of the post C to a length of 40 in.,
and smooth up the sides. Square the column base D to 4 in. and cut a
³⁄₁₆-in. chamfer around its upper side.
Square up and smooth the cross arms E and F, for the base, to a width
of 3 in. and a length of 16 in. Bevel the upper corners 1 in., at an
angle of 45°. Bore holes with a ¹⁄₂-in. bit to form the rounded ends of
the portions cut out from the lower sides of the cross braces. Chisel
the wood away between the holes and smooth the resulting surfaces. The
half-lap joint, by which the cross braces are joined, may then be made.
It should not be made until the lower portions are cut out of the cross
braces, and the remaining portions are made of exactly the same width,
2¹⁄₂ in., according to the drawing. The joint must be fitted tightly in
what is termed a driving fit, or it will not be strong enough.
The construction may be assembled as follows, although several methods
may be adopted that will prove satisfactory: Fix the cap A to the top
of the post with glue and ¹⁄₂-in. dowels, bored not quite through the
cap. Screws may be used for this purpose, but they mar the finish of
the upper surface of the cap. Glue the braces B into the corners to
support the cap. They should be warmed before applying the glue and
rubbed slightly to bring them into place tightly and to distribute the
glue evenly. Small brads may be used to nail them in place, but care
must be taken not to mar the finish.
The column base D may be fixed to the bottom of the post in the same
way that the cap was fixed at the upper end. The cross braces E and F,
forming the base, should be glued in the half-lap joint and fixed to
the column base with glue and dowels, or screws sunk into sockets from
the lower side of the braces.
When the glue has dried, the pedestal should be scraped and cleaned
preparatory to a final sandpapering before applying the stain and
varnish.
The arms G for the shade holder are made of strips of brass or copper,
1 in. wide and 8³⁄₄ in. long, bent to the proper form, as shown in
the sketch. The straight end, 2 in. long, is provided with two holes
through which screws are fixed into the top of the cap.
The shade is constructed as follows: Make a 4-in. square, H, of brass
strip, 1 in. wide, and solder or rivet it at the joint. Make the lower
square J of the same material and in the same way, 18 in. on each side.
Solder ¹⁄₈-in. wire, of a length that will give the desired slant to
the shade, at the corners of the squares, forming a rigid frame for the
covering. Cloth or silk may be used to cover the frame.
The braces for the shade may then be fastened to the top of the cap, as
shown in the assembly sketch, and their ends shaped to hold the frame
firmly. The pedestal should be smoothed off immediately preparatory to
finishing, and the sharp edges removed slightly. Care should be taken
in sandpapering, since rubbing across the grain is ruinous, as is too
much sandpapering. The latter particularly smacks of the novice. A coat
of stain, one of filler rubbed in thoroughly, a coat of shellac, and
a finish coat of wax or varnish will give a satisfactory finish. The
shellac and varnish coats should be permitted to dry thoroughly and
should then be sandpapered lightly before applying other coats.
The electrical connections for the lamp may be made from a cord
extension to a socket fixed in the center of the cap. In some instances
it may be desirable to connect the cord from a floor socket. In that
case the post should be built up of two pieces of 1-in. thickness, and
a groove to admit the cord made in the center of it.
Sewing Rack Attached to Rocker
[Illustration: The Swinging Rack Folds under the Arm of the Chair When
Not in Use]
A rack like that shown in the illustration is convenient as a support
for articles being sewed or repaired by the home worker. It was made by
fastening two bars from a towel rack to the arm of the rocker by means
of a bolt. When not in use, the bars are folded back under the arm of
the chair. One of the bars may be provided with hooks so that scissors
and other sewing requisites may be placed on them.--Mrs. J. E. McCoy,
Philadelphia, Pa.
Glass Bottle as a Candle Lamp
[Illustration]
A candle may be carried in a glass bottle, as shown in the sketch,
with little danger of setting fire to surrounding objects, and without
permitting the melted wax to leak upon the floor. The bottom of the
bottle is cut off and the candle inserted as shown, the neck affording
a convenient handle.--Stanley Radcliffe, Laurel, Md.
A Folding Wall Desk
To provide an inexpensive desk in a shop, where space was quite
limited, the folding wall desk shown in the sketch was devised. It was
cut from a packing box and the hinged lid built up of boards of better
quality. To give a good writing surface, a piece of heavy cardboard
was fastened to the writing bed with thumb tacks and may be renewed
whenever necessary. The inside of the desk was fitted with filing
compartments arranged to care for a large variety of shop forms and
stationery. An inkwell holder made of a strip of sheet metal was fixed
to the end of the desk and the bottle suspended in it, there being
space for additional bottles also. The hinged lid is provided with a
hasp and padlock. When not in use the desk may be tilted upward and
locked against the wall with small catches. By using a T-square against
the left edge of the writing bed, a convenient drafting table for shop
sketching is provided.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 4
FIG. 5
FIG. 3
The Packing Box from Which the Desk was Made is Shown in Fig. 1. The
Dotted Lines Indicate Where It was Cut to Give the Slanting Writing
Surface. The Device in Its Normal Position is Shown in Fig. 2; Hooked
against the Wall, in Fig. 3, and with the Lid Raised, Showing the
Compartments, in Fig. 5.]
The detailed construction, for the making of the desk from stock
lumber, by boys, or amateur workers with tools, may be carried out
as follows: Determine upon the size of the proposed desk. Convenient
dimensions are 30 in. long, 18 in. wide, 7 in. high at the back, and
4 in. high at the front. Use ⁷⁄₈-in. soft wood; pine and poplar are
suitable. Cut and shape all the pieces before beginning the assembling
of the parts. The wood should be planed smooth and may be sandpapered
lightly when the construction is completed, before applying a finish.
A simple arrangement of the pieces so they can be nailed together is
that shown in the sketch, which was used in making the box. First shape
the pieces for the sides, 5¹⁄₄ in. wide at the larger end, 2¹⁄₄ in.
wide at the smaller, and 16¹⁄₄ in. long. Clamp the boards together, or
tack them with two wire nails while shaping them, so that they will be
exactly alike. Make a piece 5¹⁄₂ in. wide and 30 in. long for the back,
and one the same length and 2¹⁄₂ in. wide for the front. Nail them to
the ends, as shown, permitting the slight excess material to project
over the upper edges of the sidepieces. Trim off this extra stock with
a plane so that the upper surfaces of the front and back conform to the
slant of the sidepieces. Make a strip 4 in. wide for the upper edge of
the desk, to which the writing bed is hinged. Cut pieces for the bottom
and nail them in place.
Before nailing down the upper hinge strip the interior fittings should
be made. Use wood not thicker than ¹⁄₂ in., and fit the pieces into
place carefully, nailing them firmly through the outer faces of the
desk. A better method is to make the pigeonholes or compartments with
a piece of the thin stock on the ends of the partitions, so that the
compartments are built up as a unit and slid into the desk, no nails
being necessary to hold them.
The lid should be made of sound, dry stock and glued up of strips about
3 in. wide, to prevent it from warping or twisting easily. If the
person making the desk has the necessary skill, it is best to fix a
strip, 2 in. wide, at each end of the writing bed, to hold the pieces
together and to keep the bed in shape.
The holder for the inkwell is made of a 1-in. strip of metal, bent to
the shape shown in Fig. 4, and drilled to fit small screws. A can is
supported in the holder and the bottle rests in it.
The desk may be finished by painting it or giving it a coat of shellac
and one of varnish, either after it has been stained to match adjoining
woodwork, or in the natural color.
Sewing Stand with Workbag in Top
[Illustration]
The stand shown in the sketch may be made by using part of a small
table, or by building the framework especially for the purpose. It was
made for use in connection with sewing and fancy work, and provides for
the tools and incidental materials necessary. The stand is 28 in. high
and about 15 in. square at the top. The bag built into the frame may be
made of any strong, suitable material, and its color should match the
finish of the wooden part. A row of nails are set in the top edge of
the rails to provide for spools of thread and thimbles. Scissors and
other tools are placed on the shoulder hooks fastened on the side of
the rail.
* * * * *
¶When paper sticks to a negative during printing remove it by soaking
it in the hypo bath, sacrificing the print rather than the negative.
Toy Paper Warships
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 3
FIG. 2
FIG. 4
Fleets of Battleships may be Made of Paper]
With a pair of scissors, pins, and a newspaper or two, a fleet of
warships can be made to sail the seven seas of polished floors. Strips
of paper, through which holes at opposite points have been cut, and
pinned together at one end, as shown in Fig. 1, are used for the sides
of the boat. Rolls of paper are slipped through the opposite holes,
as shown at Fig. 2, and provide support for the deck, which is a flat
piece of paper pointed at the end to fit between the sides of the
craft. A second deck fitted with funnels and masts, as shown in Fig. 3,
is made of a folded piece of paper with holes cut through it for the
masts and funnels, which are rolls of paper. If plain paper is used,
the warships may be made in several colors, which adds to the effect of
rivalry between the fleets. Other types of craft may easily be devised,
two of which are shown in Fig. 4. Not only the youngsters in the
household, but their elders as well, may find not a little amusement
and diversion in the making of a fleet of such warships, modeled after
battleships, destroyers, battle cruisers, and other vessels.
Caster Board for Scrubbing and Floorwork
A board for use in work that requires tedious kneeling, as in
scrubbing, repairing of sidewalk lights, and similar work, may be made
as follows: Procure a board, ⁷⁄₈ by 10 by 14 in., and pad it with a
section of carpet. Place three casters under it, two being set at the
rear and one at the front edge. If desired, small strips may be nailed
at the sides to prevent the knees from slipping off. Such a device
enables the user to move along the floor easily without injuring the
knees.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.
A Lamp Cooker
An ordinary circular-wick kerosene lamp produces enough heat to do
considerable cooking, provided the heat is properly utilized. A simple
and practicable method of converting such a lamp into a cooker is as
follows: Saw a hole, 12 in. square, in the top of a small table, or
packing box of about the same height as a table. Cover this with a
piece of sheet metal, having a 4-in. hole in the center. Place a 5-in.
flowerpot over the hole in the metal, and plug up the hole in the
bottom of the pot with fire clay or plaster of Paris. Vegetables in
jars may be set around the flowerpot to cook slowly and a roast in a
pan on top of it. A wooden box, or metal pail, large enough to cover
the arrangement, should be placed over it. Air holes should be provided
in the lower box and in the cover.
[Illustration: This Lamp Cooker will Prepare Meats and Vegetables
Satisfactorily, and is Useful for the Camper and in Emergencies]
To operate the device light the lamp and when it is burning brightly,
place it under the table, elevating it so that the top of the chimney
is in the center and barely within the rim of the flowerpot. Use little
water in the vegetables and keep the caps loosely on the jars. The
roast, if well buttered, will brown nicely, and while the cooking will
require considerably more time than it would in a range, the results
will be as good, if not superior. The natural juices are preserved
by the slow cooking at comparatively low temperature. The cover may
be lifted to turn the meat occasionally. This device will appeal to
campers, summer cottagers and others.--W. W. Baldwin, New York, N. Y.
Placing a Miter Box on the Workbench
In placing a miter box on a workbench considerable space is often
wasted, and the workman is obstructed. By raising the miter box on
the bench mounting it upon two blocks, about 6 in. high and set back
about 18 in. from the front of the bench, small space is utilized, and
the tool may be used as conveniently as otherwise. The space under
the miter box and the open space in front of it are available for the
disposal of ordinary tools, and there is no danger of the saw striking
them. By making another stand, the height of the bearing surface of
the miter box, and moving this about on the bench, long pieces may be
handled with ease. This stand is removed from the bench when not in
use.--Henry Simon, Laguna Beach, Calif.
A Book and Document Protector
A device for punching identification marks in the pages of books or
papers, may be made easily by setting pins into a small box filled with
sealing wax. The box should be large enough to accommodate the desired
wording without crowding, leaving about ¹⁄₄ in. all around the edge.
Cut the box, which may be of cardboard, to a height ¹⁄₁₆ in. less than
the length of a common pin. Mark the words to be punched on a piece of
cardboard which just fits into the box. Punch holes along the letters
and transfer them to the bottom of the box. Insert pins from the
outside through the bottom of the box and permit their ends to come
out of the holes in the cardboard guide. Cut away enough of the guide
piece so that the melted sealing wax can be poured in, setting the pins
firmly. The guide piece is then removed, exposing the ends of the pins
about ¹⁄₁₆ in. If the work is carefully done they will be of uniform
length. Place heavy blotting paper or cardboard under the page when
using the punch.--D. G. Stevenson, Chicago, Ill.
Blotter Attached to Wrist Saves Time
[Illustration]
The annoyance of having to look for a misplaced blotter or to pick it
up each time a signature is to be blotted, may be avoided by the use of
the wrist blotter shown in the sketch. It is made by folding a piece
of blotting paper, 6 in. wide and 12 in. long, into three sections.
A rubber band is placed in the fold of the blotter and passed around
the wrist, thus holding it in place until no longer needed. When one
portion of the blotter becomes soiled, the folding may be reversed and
a new surface exposed.--Frank W. Roth, Joplin, Mo.
Celluloid Cover for Road Maps
Road maps are easily soiled and torn unless properly protected, and
a satisfactory case to hold them should provide for conveniently
examining the map. A piece of transparent celluloid about twice the
size of the map when folded can be made into a suitable cover. Fold the
celluloid into an envelope form and rivet or sew the ends, leaving the
fourth edge open. The map is inserted in the cover with the desired
section uppermost, affording protection and ready access at the same
time.
Shield for Heater in Chick Brooding House
[Illustration]
A shield of sheet metal, having a small heater in the center of it,
provides a good means of warming a brooding house for small chicks. The
heat is radiated from the shield and the chicks remain at a distance,
seeking a comfortable temperature. The device may be made easily by
cutting a sheet of metal to form a cone-shaped hood and fitting it with
a vent passing out through the roof of the house.--Samuel S. Snelbaker,
York, Pa.
Kink for Removal of Wall Paper
[Illustration]
Removing old wall paper, particularly from the ceiling of a room, is a
disagreeable task at best, and the device shown in the sketch aids in
the process. A board, about 15 in. long and 12 in. wide, was provided
with strips at its edges and a pad of flannel was fitted into it.
The device is used by moistening the pad and applying it to the wall
paper. The paper is loosened thoroughly and may be removed in pieces of
considerable size. This method has been found much quicker than that
of soaking the paper with a moistened brush.--J. H. Moore, Hamilton,
Canada.
* * * * *
¶A clay pipe may be used as a crucible for melting small quantities
of metal.
The stem is broken off and a plug fitted into it.
A Secret Trinket Case for the Bookshelf
BY T. H. LINTHICUM
Practical use as well as the novelty of its construction makes the
trinket case shown in the illustration well worth the time and effort
necessary to make it. Various kinds of wood--preferably of the better
cabinet varieties--are suited to the design shown, which was made of
³⁄₁₆-in. stock, like that used in cigar boxes. The size shown is that
of a bound volume of a magazine like Popular Mechanics, and may be
adapted to special needs. The back and the cover slide in grooves,
which are not visible when the “book” is closed, making it difficult
and interesting for one to discover how the case is opened. The back
may be marked and lettered to resemble a bound volume closely, and if
special secrecy is desired, it may even be covered with leather, in
exact duplication of those on a bound set of magazines kept in the
bookcase with it.
[Illustration: This Trinket Case Is a Practical Novelty That may be
Used as a Secret Container to be Set on the Bookshelf with Similar
Bound Volume]
Make the pieces for the frame of the box first. If possible, make one
strip of the proper width--2 in., in this case--and long enough for
the two ends and the front. Make another strip 1³⁄₄ in. wide and long
enough for the partition and false back of the tray. Cut these to the
lengths indicated in the detailed sketches of the parts. Mark out the
grooves in the end pieces carefully and cut them with a saw that cuts
a groove ³⁄₃₂ in. wide. The grooves may be cut by clamping a straight
strip of wood on the surface of the ends the proper distance from the
top, and sawing cautiously along the strip to the proper depth. The
grooves across the grain may be cut similarly, or in a miter box.
Glue the pieces of the frame together, taking care that the corners are
square. If necessary, place blocks inside to insure that the clamping
will not disturb the right angles of the box. Shape the bottom and
cover pieces nearly to the final size before gluing them; then, if
small nicks are made in the edge, they may be removed by a cut of the
plane, when the case is complete. Glue the sliding pieces to the cover
and to the back. This must be done carefully, and it is convenient to
drive small brads part way into the second piece, from the inner side,
to prevent the pieces from slipping while being glued. If proper care
is taken, only a small amount of glue will be forced out, and this
can be removed with a chisel when dry. The edges may be trimmed off
to their exact size, and the entire construction given a final light
sandpapering. It is then ready for the stain and shellac, or other
finish. The parts that slide in grooves should not be shellacked or
varnished, because this is apt to cause them to stick.
A Cylinder Reversing Switch
[Illustration]
A cylinder reversing switch for small battery motors may be constructed
cheaply, from a 3-in. length of broom handle and ¹⁄₂-in. boards, as
shown. The four brushes are strips of copper. The contacts on the
moving cylinder are eight brass tacks, connected as indicated in the
diagram. The wires are insulated with paper where they cross. The
handle is of heavy wire, and two tacks limit its motion, as shown. The
method of connecting the switch is as follows, for either a series or
shunt motor: Remove the two wires from the motor brushes, and connect
the two middle brushes of the switch to the motor brushes. Connect
the wires removed from the motor brushes to the outer brushes of the
switch.--Claude Schuder, Sumner, Ill.
Summer Radiator Cover Serves as Cupboard in Winter
[Illustration: This Radiator Cover is Built so That Shelves may be
Inserted Quickly for Use as a Cabinet]
Because of the accumulation of dust on a kitchen radiator in the
summer, a cupboard was built over it, and used at other seasons of the
year for the storage of various articles, by fitting it with shelves.
While in use as a radiator cover, the top of the cupboard provided a
convenient seat. If properly made, cabinets of this type can be used in
other parts of the home to advantage.
A Safety Spring for Porch Swings
[Illustration]
It is often necessary to hang swinging porch seats fairly close to
surrounding woodwork, which is marred by their swinging too far. To
overcome this, procure a coil screen-door spring and cut it in two.
Bend a hook on each cut end, and fasten one of the springs to the
center of each end of the swing, and to the floor. This permits only
gentle swinging.--F. C. Hayes, Niagara Falls, Canada.
* * * * *
¶Proper ventilation of cellars makes it desirable to provide a screen
door on the cellar entrance.
Frying Pan Made of Tin Cover
[Illustration]
If you want an egg done to perfection try the frying pan made of a
tin cover. It was intended for emergency use only, but proved so
satisfactory that I kept it as a regular fixture. The wire handle
was fitted to the rim through two holes, as shown and hooks under
the bottom of the pan, the twisting of the wires giving the required
strength.
Safety Cover for Valves on Gas Stove
[Illustration]
In order to safeguard the valves of a kitchen gas stove with which
children might occasionally meddle, I fitted a sheet-metal cover over
the valves as shown in the sketch. The cover is wired to the feed
pipe and is swung forward, as indicated by the dotted outline, when
not in use. Small catches may be fixed at each end of the cover, if
desired.--Leroy Schenck, Mount Vernon, N. Y.
A Come-Back Rolling Can
[Illustration]
An interesting toy may be made by fitting a rubber band into a tin can
and weighting it as shown. When the can is rolled on the floor it will
return to its original place by reason of the weight which is supported
on a string at the middle of the rubber band. The latter is passed
through two holes at each end of the can, and when the can is rolled
along the floor the elastic is wound at the middle. The weight reverses
the direction of rolling.--Albert French, Hamilton, Ontario, Can.
Removable Paraffin Covers for Jars
[Illustration]
To remove paraffin from the tops of glasses or jars of preserves,
without getting bits of the covering into the contents, is difficult.
When pouring the melted paraffin over the top, put a small cork in the
center and let the paraffin harden around it, as shown. To remove the
covering, dip the top of the glass in hot water. This sealing can be
used again by placing it on the top of hot jelly, the paraffin melting
and adhering to the glass.--J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
A Marble-under-Bridge Game of Skill
[Illustration]
The object of this game is to pass a marble from one end to the other
of the “roadway,” under the “bridges,” and over the “inclines,” without
dropping it. A stop must be made at each hole. The device is made as
follows: Cut two pieces of wood, ¹⁄₄ by 1³⁄₄ by 12 in., and join them
to form a right angle. Cut pieces of cardboard, 4 each, 1³⁄₄ by 2¹⁄₂
in. wide, with a ³⁄₄-in. hole in the center, for inclines B, and 1³⁄₄
by 3 in., for bridges A; also two pieces 1³⁄₄ in. square for stops C.
Fasten them with tacks as shown. The marble should be large enough so
that it will rest in the holes at B.
[Illustration: Decorative Toys _and_ Boxes
Made at Home
By Bonnie E. Snow]
Homemade toys and gifts, as well as the “treasure boxes” in which
they are contained, have an added interest both to the one making and
the one receiving them. The holiday season makes this work especially
attractive, which affords opportunity for individuality in construction
and design limited only by the skill of the worker. The decorated
toys and the box described in detail in this article are suggestive
only, and may be adapted to a large variety of forms and designs. The
gorgeously colored parrot and the gayly caparisoned rider and horse
suggest a host of bird and animal forms, those having possibilities for
attractive coloring being most desirable. The decorated box shown in
Fig. 7 may be adapted as a gift box, to be used where its decoration
may be seen, in the nursery, for example, and may be made in many
forms, in fact as various as cardboard boxes are. Plant, animal, or
geometrical forms may be used to work out designs, and appropriate
color schemes applied to them. A good plan in determining upon a color
scheme is to use the colors of the flower or other motif. If the design
is not associated with objects having varied colors--a geometrical
design, for instance--harmonious colors should be chosen. These may be
bright and contrasting, as red and green, violet and orange, or subdued
in tone.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
The Outlines for the Horse and Rider and the Parrot may be Made by
Enlarging These Sketches. The Color Scheme Indicated is Suggestive Only
and may be Varied to Suit Individual Taste]
A design for a horse and rider, brightly colored, is shown in Fig. 1.
The form is cut out of thin wood, the color applied, and the figure
mounted on the curved wire, weighted at one end, as shown in Fig. 6.
The toy adds a touch of color and novelty to a room, when suspended
from the corner of the mantel, from a shelf, or other suitable place.
Balanced in a striking attitude, forefeet upraised, even grown-ups can
hardly resist tipping the rider to see his mount rear still higher. The
parrot shown in Fig. 2 is made similarly, and is weighted at the end of
the tail. The point of balance is at the feet, which may be fastened
to a trapeze, or be arranged to perch on a convenient place, like that
suited to the horse and rider.
The tools and equipment necessary for the making of such toys are
simple, and available in most boys’ workshops or tool chests. A coping
saw, like that shown at A, Fig. 3, is suitable for cutting the wood.
A fretsaw, operated by hand, foot or power, may be used, and such a
tool makes this work quite rapid. To use the coping saw to the best
advantage, particularly if the work is to be done on a table which must
not be marred, a sawing board should be made. In its simplest form,
this consists of a board, as shown at B, about ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, 3¹⁄₂ in.
wide, and 6 in. long, with one end notched. This is clamped to the end
of the table, as at D, with a clamp, an iron one of the type shown at
C being satisfactory. Another form of sawing table especially useful
when it is desired to stand up at the work, is shown at E in detail
and clamped in the vise at F. It consists of a notched board, 3¹⁄₂ in.
wide, fixed at right angles to a board of similar width, 11 in. long,
and braced at the joint with a block about 1³⁄₈ in. square. In using
the coping saw with either of these saw tables, the wood is held down
on the support, as shown in Fig. 5, and the saw drawn downward for each
cutting stroke, thus tending to hold the board more firmly against the
saw table. It is, of course, important that the saw be inserted in the
coping-saw frame with the teeth pointing toward the handle, so that the
method of cutting described may be followed. The wood must be sawed
slowly, especially at the beginning of a cut. The operator soon learns
the kinks in handling the saw and wood to the best advantage, and can
then make rapid progress.
[Illustration: A
B
C
D
E
F
FIG. 3
The Tools Required are Found in Most Boys’ Workshops, and a
Satisfactory Saw Table may be Made Easily, as Shown in Detail]
An outline drawing of the form to be cut out of the wood must first
be made, to the exact size that the object is to be. There is much
satisfaction if working out the form of the animal or other figure,
especially for the boy or girl who has the time necessary to do good
work. If desired, the figure may be traced from a picture obtained from
a book, magazine, or other source. Cut a piece of wood to the size
required for the design, and place a sheet of carbon paper over it; or
if none is available, rub a sheet of paper with a soft pencil, and use
this as a carbon paper, the side covered with the lead being placed
next to the wood. The carbon paper and the sheet bearing the design
should then be held in place on the wood with thumb tacks, or pins, and
the transfer made with a pencil, as shown in Fig. 4. The design should
be placed on the wood so that the weaker parts, such as the legs of the
horse, will extend with the length instead of across the grain of the
wood. In some instances, where a complicated form is cut out, it is
necessary to use wood of several plies, and where this is available it
is worth while to use it for all of this work. For smaller objects wood
³⁄₁₆ in. thick is suitable, and stock up to ¹⁄₂ in. in thickness may be
used. Whitewood, basswood, poplar and other soft, smooth-grained woods
are suitable.
[Illustration: FIG. 4
FIG. 5
The Design is Traced Carefully onto the Wood and Then Cut Out with the
Coping Saw, on the Saw Table]
When the design has been outlined satisfactorily, place the piece
of wood on the saw table with the design on the upper side. Holding
the wood down firmly, as shown in Fig. 5, and sawing in the notch of
the saw table, cut into the edge slowly. Apply light pressure on the
downstroke only, as the upstroke is not intended to cut, and turn the
piece to keep the saw on the line and in the notch. It is important
that the saw be held vertically so that the edge of the cut-out portion
will be square. With proper care and a little practice, the edges may
be cut so smoothly that only a light sandpapering will be required to
produce a smooth edge. When the figure has been cut out, smooth the
edges by trimming them carefully with a sharp knife, if necessary, and
sandpaper them lightly to remove sharp corners. A fine sandpaper, about
No. ¹⁄₂, is suitable for this purpose. The figure is then ready for
painting. The white is put on first and the other colors applied over
it, when dry.
Oil paints may be used, and a varnish or shellac applied over them
to give a high grade of work, but this process requires much care,
considerable skill, and long drying between coats to prevent “runs” in
the colors.
[Illustration: FIG. 6]
Water-color paint, which can be purchased in powder form at paint
stores, mixed with water to the consistency of cream is a satisfactory
coloring material, and is easy to apply. Five cents’ worth of each
of the colors used--yellow, red, blue, black, and white--will be
sufficient for several toys. Mix each color in a separate saucer, and
use a small water-color brush to apply the paint. In painting the horse
and rider, the horse is first painted entirely white, and then the
black spots are applied after the color is dry. The rider’s coat is
painted red; the trousers blue; the hat and leggings buff, as indicated
in Fig. 1. Mix a brushful of yellow with a brushful of red, and add
about three brushfuls of white. A half brushful of black may be added
to dull the color, if desired. The flesh tone for the rider’s face is
made by mixing a little red with white. When the colors are dry, all
edges are outlined with a heavy line of black, not less than ¹⁄₈ in. in
width. This outline may be evenly applied with the point of the brush.
[Illustration: FIG. 7
A Handmade Box Is Interesting in that It Expresses the Individuality of
the Maker, Especially When Made as a Gift]
The method of making the parrot is similar to that described for the
horse and rider, and the color scheme is suggested in Fig. 2.
It will be noticed that no attempt is made to secure a lifelike, or
realistic, effect in painting these toy shapes. All colors are flat,
that is, without light and shade. The toys are really decorative
designs, and the maker is at liberty to use any colors desired, whether
natural or not.
The horse and rider is balanced on the hind foot, as shown in
Fig. 6, by using a lead weight, attached to a ¹⁄₁₆-in. wire, as a
counterweight. The wire should be set into the body of the horse,
behind the foreleg, to a depth of ³⁄₄ in. The weight of the metal and
the curve of the wire should be adjusted to obtain the proper balance.
The parrot is balanced in the same way, except that the weight is fixed
to the end of the tail, which is curved like the wire.
These and other homemade toys or gifts may be sent or contained
appropriately in boxes decorated to match them, as shown in Fig. 7.
They may be made complete, or commercial boxes of suitable sizes may
be covered and decorated. If good materials are used, such a box makes
a pretty and useful gift in itself. The complete process of making a
typical box is described for those who prefer to make one of special
size. The dimensions given are thus only suggestive, and may be adapted
to suit particular needs.
[Illustration: FIG. 8
Color Schemes may be Obtained from Flowers and Other Natural Forms,
or by Selecting a Combination of Harmonious Shades. The Background Is
of Plum-Colored Paper; the Small Circles are Emerald-Green; the Light
Area, Yellow, and the Ovals, Orange-Red]
The materials necessary are: cardboard, cover paper, lining paper,
bond paper, paste, and water colors. The latter should be of the
opaque variety since white or other light shades may then be used on
darker-colored paper. A sharp knife, a scissors, a metal-edge ruler,
and bookbinder’s paste are also needed. Suitable substitutes for the
various kinds of paper may usually be obtained in the home, if they
are not readily available at local stationery stores or printing
establishments.
[Illustration: G
H
J
M
K
L
N
O
P
Q
FIG. 9
The Various Steps in the Process of Making and Covering a Rectangular
Cardboard Box are Shown in Detail. The Method of Making a Pattern for
the Design is shown Below]
The box is made as follows: Determine upon the proper size and select
materials to carry out the design. An appropriate combination of
colors and materials is suggested in Fig. 8. Cut out a square of the
cardboard, having sides 12¹⁄₂ in. long, as shown in Fig. 9, at G, then
mark it as indicated and cut on the full line to remove the square
corners. Crease it on the dotted lines and fold to form a box. To hold
the cardboard in box shape, strips of bond paper--ordinary writing
paper--are cut, 3³⁄₄ in. long and 1 in. wide, then creased along their
centers and pasted to the corners. The paste should be applied to the
paper strip first, then on the corners of the box. Apply the piece of
paper over the corner of the box on the outside, pressing it to make a
snug fit. Repeat this operation on the other corners.
Lay off the dimensions given at H on the selected color of cover paper,
which in this instance is plum, and score the lines indicated. Spread
paste smoothly over the surface of the plum paper, between the lines
drawn ³⁄₈ in. from the long edges, and then spread a thin layer of
paste over the outer surface of one of the sides of the box. Apply the
paper to the pasted surface and press it down, rubbing gently out from
the center to remove air bubbles. Fold the ³⁄₈-in. laps at the top and
bottom over the upper edge of the box and around the lower corner.
Repeat this process, covering the four sides. To form a smooth fold at
the corners, it is best to miter the paper as shown at J and K, before
pasting it down. Then paste a square of the same paper 4⁷⁄₈ in. wide on
the bottom of the box, taking care to match the edges evenly all around.
Line the box with a strip of lining paper, 20 in. long and 4 in. wide.
Try the lining by folding it into the box so that its upper edge is
about ¹⁄₈ in. from the edge of the box, and crease it carefully into
the corners. Remove it, apply paste, and press it well into the corners
when pasting it down. Paste a square of the same paper, 4⁷⁄₈ in wide,
in the bottom of the box.
The cover is made by the same process as the main portion of the box.
The dimensions of the cardboard are shown at L, and the covering at M.
It should be observed that the cover is slightly wider than the box,
so that it will fit easily.
When the box is thoroughly dry, it is ready to receive the decorations
on the top and sides. The design may be adapted from a leaf, flower,
or similar form, as well as from geometric or animal forms. The horse
and rider, the parrot, and the animals shown in the headpiece of this
article are all suggestive of animal forms that are available.
The design shown on the box in Fig. 7 was adapted from a flower form,
two of the units being joined for the decoration on the top. To obtain
a pattern for the design, fold a piece of paper, 2 by 4 in., as shown
at N, and outline one-half of a leaf, flower or similar motif. Cut the
folded paper as at O, and a pattern similar to that shown at P results.
Trace around this to place the figure on the box. Outline the figure
with black, about ¹⁄₈ in. wide, as at Q. The oval figures, suggestive
of small pods on a flower, are also outlined in black, and joined to
the main portion of the design by a black line. Thinner black lines are
drawn vertically across the form, and small circles placed along them
at intervals. The color scheme is shown in Fig. 8. The light background
is yellow, the small circles are emerald-green, and the ovals
red-orange. The rim of the cover is decorated with a border of white
ovals, outlined in black. The corners are banded in black and white as
shown in Fig. 7.
Care and Storage of Camp Equipment
A slovenly sportsman misses much of the joy of the man who takes pride
in giving his outfit the proper care, not only during its period of
use, but also during the winter, when occasional overhauling serves to
keep one in touch with sports of other seasons. And a very real joy it
is, each article recalling an experience as one examines it minutely
for a possible rust spot, scratch, or injury.
Tents usually come in for much abuse, which shortens their life
considerably. Cotton duck molds quickly, and rots if left rolled up
damp. Care should be taken, therefore, to insure its perfect dryness
before storing. Silk and silk-composition tents, being thoroughly
waterproof, are almost as dry after a rain or dew as before, so may be
packed for moving at any time. But all tents and tarpaulins should be
washed and dried carefully after the season’s use.
Blankets absorb much moisture, and should be shaken and spread out over
bushes to dry in the sun, at least once a week. In the cold nights
of late summer, the increased warmth of blankets after drying is
considerable.
Pack straps and ropes should not be left exposed to the weather.
They speedily become hard or brittle; squirrels like the salt they
can obtain by chewing the leather, and if left on the ground in a
rabbit country, the straps are soon cut into bits. Hang the leather
goods in the peak of the tent, keep them away from fire, and oil them
occasionally.
A canoe should not be left in the water overnight, or at any time when
it is not in use. Simply because use makes it wet, a canoe should not
be left so any more than a gun should be left dirty, or an ax dull. If
on a cruise with a heavy load, pile the stuff on shore at the night
camp, and turn the canoe over it. If a canoe is permitted to remain in
the water unnecessarily, or its inside exposed to rain, it soon becomes
water-soaked and heavy for portage, besides drying out when exposed to
the sun, and developing leaks.
Small punctures in the bottom of a canoe may be mended with spruce,
tamarack, or pine gum, melted into place with a glowing firebrand,
held close, while blowing at the spot to be repaired. Torn rags
of canvas-covered bottoms may be glued with the softer gum of new
“blazes,” gathered with a knife or flat stick.
While traveling on shallow streams the bottom of a board canoe develops
a “fur” of rubbed-up shreds. Every night these should be cut short
with a sharp-pointed knife, to prevent a shred from pulling out and
developing into a large splinter. The paddles, and the setting pole,
unless shod with iron, become burred at the ends and require trimming
down to solid wood.
The track line, if in use, is wet most of the time, and unless dried
frequently, becomes rotten. Every tracker knows the grave danger with a
rotten line in a rapids.
During the winter the canoe should be scraped and sandpapered, bulges
nailed down, permanent repairs made to the covering, and the canoe
painted on the exterior and varnished on the interior.
The average fisherman is an enthusiast who needs no urging in the
matter of caring for his outfit, and the user of firearms should profit
by this example. Even if not a shot has been fired from a gun all day,
moisture from the hands, or from the dampness in the woods, or marshes,
may cause rust spots, or corrode the bore. Rub an oily rag through the
bore and over the outside of the gun every evening, before laying it
aside.
Cleaning rods are safer and more thorough in cleaning the bore than
the common mouse string, which may break when drawing a heavy piece
of cloth through, causing much difficulty. A wooden rod, preferably
of hickory, is best, although the metal rod is stronger for use in
small bores, but care must be taken not to wear the muzzle unduly. The
hunting weapons should be carefully overhauled before storing them,
and given a coat of oil to protect the metal parts from rust.--A. M.
Parker, Edmonton, Can.
Useful Periscope Which a Boy Can Make
Mention of periscopes is quite common in the reports from European
battle fields; such a device in a simple form can be made easily by
boys who have fair skill with tools. The illustration shows a periscope
which may be used for play, and has other practical uses as well. In a
store or other place where a person on duty cannot watch all parts of
the establishment, such a device is convenient in that it will reflect
persons entering the door. As a toy or for experimental purposes the
periscope shown has many possibilities, and will appeal to youngsters.
[Illustration: This Simple Periscope Is Useful Both for Play and
Practical Purposes]
It consists of a square box, 18 in. long, open at the ends. It is 3¹⁄₂
in. wide and made of wood, ³⁄₈ in. thick. A mirror is fitted at an
angle of 45° near one end of the box or tube, as shown in the sketch.
The front of the mirror is opposite a three-cornered opening in the
box which extends across one side. The opposite end of the tube is
also fitted with a mirror in the same manner, except that the front
of the mirror faces to the opposite side of the box at which there is
also an opening. In using this device, the user sights from the point
indicated by the eye. The image is reflected in the mirror at the top
and thrown onto the lower mirror, where it may be seen without exposing
the head above the level of the lower opening. It is this application
of reflection by mirrors that makes it possible for soldiers to see
distant objects without exposing themselves to fire, by the use of the
periscope.
Trap for Coyotes
[Illustration: By Drawing on the Wire the Coyotes were Brought under
Control and Forced from Their Lair]
Two coyotes, resisting capture in a hole under a lava ledge, were
hauled forth quickly when the device shown in the sketch was used,
after other means had proved ineffective.
I made a snare of baling wire and attached it to a pole, 6 ft. long,
running the wire down from the loop to the end of the handle. The loop
was made about twice the size of the coyote’s head, and, by drawing on
the wire at the handle, the animals were placed under control and held
at a safe distance.--Contributed by Milton Barth, Geyserville, Cal.
Utilizing an Empty Paste Pot
[Illustration: A Pincushion Built to Fit the Empty Paste Compartment
Makes a Useful Article of the Paste Pot]
The type of paste pot that contains a central well to hold the paste
brush is not always cast aside when empty. A pincushion built to fit
the outer ring, or paste-holding section, is added and the brush holder
is used to hold pens and pencils.
* * * * *
¶A magnet may be used to advantage in picking up tacks or small nails
which have been scattered on a floor.
A Colonial Mirror Frame
Black walnut, or mahogany, is the most effective wood to use in making
this simple but artistic frame. It requires a very small amount of
stock and what is used should be of a good quality and carefully worked
to the given dimensions with keen tools. The stock required for the
frame is as follows:
Black walnut, or mahogany:
2 pieces, 27¹⁄₂ in. long, 1³⁄₈ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick.
1 piece, 22 in. long, 1³⁄₈ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick.
1 piece 9¹⁄₄ in. long, 1³⁄₈ in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick.
White holly:
1 piece, 27¹⁄₂ in. long, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, and ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick.
Picture board:
1 piece, 25 in. long, 9 in. wide, and ¹⁄₈ in. thick.
The dimensions for the walnut or mahogany pieces are rough sizes,
oversize to allow for the planing to the dimensions given in the
sketch. The white holly may be procured smoothly planed on both sides
and of the exact thickness required. The picture backing may be
purchased in almost any store that sells frames. It is usually rough
pine and inexpensive.
The first operation is to plane the frame pieces on one side and edge,
using great care to insure both being perfectly straight and the edge
square with the face. Gauge for, and plane to the thickness required,
although this need not be exactly ⁵⁄₈ in. as called for, but if the
stock will stand ¹¹⁄₁₆ in. or ³⁄₄ in. do not take the time to cut it
down to ⁵⁄₈ in. The little cross rail must be exactly ¹⁄₈ in. thick, as
it is to be let ¹⁄₈ in. into the rabbet cut for the glass, which makes
it come ¹⁄₈ in. back from the face of the frame when it is in place.
Plane all of these pieces to the width, 1¹⁄₈ inch.
For cutting the rabbet, a plow, or a ³⁄₄-in. grooving, plane is the
best tool to use, but if neither is available a rabbet plane can be
used. Be sure to plane the rabbet square and to the lines gauged for
the depth and width.
To groove the pieces for the holly strips a special tool is required.
This may be made of a piece of soft sheet steel or iron, which must
be of a thickness to correspond to that of the holly. A piece 2¹⁄₂
in. long, and of almost any width, will answer the purpose. File one
edge of the metal straight, and cut saw teeth in it by filing straight
across with a small saw file. Remove the burr raised by the filing by
rubbing each side on an oilstone. Drill two holes in it for fastening
with screws to a piece of hard wood. The wood serves as a fence, and if
properly fastened to the metal, the teeth should cut a groove ¹⁄₁₆ in.
deep and ³⁄₁₆ in. from the edge. The holly strip should fit the groove
tightly so that it can be driven home with light taps of a hammer. It
is well to try the tool on a bit of waste wood first to see if it cuts
the groove properly.
The holly is cut into strips, ¹⁄₈ in. wide with a slitting gauge. An
ordinary marking gauge, with the spur filed flat on each side to make a
sharp, deep line, will do very well for this work. The gauging is done
from both sides of the piece to make the spur cut halfway through from
each side. Before the slitting is attempted, one edge of the piece is
first straightened. This is readily accomplished with a fore plane,
laid on its side and used as a shoot plane. The strip to be planed
is laid flat on a piece of ⁷⁄₈-in. stock with one edge projecting
slightly. This raises it above the bench and allows the fore plane to
be worked against the projecting edge.
The strips should be applied to the groove to test the fit, and if
found to be tight, they must be tapered slightly by filing or scraping
the sides. If the fit is good, hot glue may be run into the grooves
with a sharp stick, and the strips driven into place. They will project
above the surface slightly, but no attempt should be made to plane them
off flush until the glue has become thoroughly hardened; then use a
sharp plane, and finish with a scraper and No. 00 sandpaper.
The miters are cut in a miter box, or planed to the exact 45° angle on
a miter shoot board. Before gluing the corners, the recesses are cut
for the cross rail, but it must not be put in place until the corners
of the frame have been fastened and the glue given time to dry.
[Illustration: An Inlay of Holly Makes an Exceedingly Pretty Frame of
Colonial Design for a Mirror]
The frame may be given either a dull or bright finish. The dull finish
gives a rich appearance and is very easy to apply. Give the completed
frame one coat of white shellac, and when it is dry, rub the surface
with very fine sandpaper until it has a smooth finish. Finish with any
of the prepared waxes, being careful to follow the directions furnished.
Before putting the board back of the mirror, be sure to place two or
three sheets of clean paper on the silvered surface. The picture board
is fastened with glazier’s points, or with small bung-head wire nails.
The back is finished by gluing a sheet of heavy wrapping paper to the
edges of the frame. If the wrapping paper is moistened with a damp
cloth before it is applied, it will dry out smooth and tightly drawn
over the back.
* * * * *
¶An emergency penholder may be made by fixing the pen on the end of a
pencil with a clip, or small rubber band.
A Turntable Stand for Potted Flowers
[Illustration]
Potted flowers, if kept in the house, tend to grow toward the light.
From time to time the pot should be turned. To do this more readily,
the turntable stand shown in the sketch was designed. It is made up of
a low, four-legged taboret upon which a 12-in. disk of 1-in. wood is
fixed with a screw. A thin wooden washer, sandpapered and shellacked,
insures easy turning. Rectangular boxes or circular jars look equally
well upon the stand, the beauty of which depends much upon its
workmanship and finish.--Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.
Index for Popular Mechanics Magazine on Bookshelf
[Illustration]
As it would be impossible to keep in one’s mind all the good ideas
given in Popular Mechanics Magazine, I preserve my back numbers for
reference, and, to reduce the amount of index and page searching, I
have adopted a convenient plan of indexing any special article to which
I expect to refer. I write, on one end of a strip of paper, the page
and date of issue of the article. I place these slips at the proper
pages in the magazine, so as to project at the top, as shown, making
reference easy. If a slip drops out, it is quickly replaced. When
articles are no longer needed for reference, the slips are removed. By
keeping the magazines on an open shelf they can be reached handily,
for reference as well as for removing them from the shelf.--J. E.
McCormack, Haliburton, Ont., Can.
Trimming Board with Foot Control and Counterweight
[Illustration]
A trimming board with the knife operated by a pedal, leaving both hands
free to handle the work, is a device appreciated by photographers,
commercial artists, and others who have more or less heavy paper or
cardboard to trim. An ordinary trimming board is mounted on a packing
box of suitable dimensions, as shown. A pedal is hinged to the bottom
of the box, and a heavy cord, or wire, runs to the handle of the
knife, so that pressure on the pedal operates the knife. The latter
is returned by a weighted rope, passing over a pulley attached to a
standard at the rear corner.--H. F. Blanchard, New York, N. Y.
Folding Card Table Handy for Invalid in Bed
When it is necessary to serve a meal to a patient in bed, and no
invalid table is at hand, use an ordinary folding card or serving
table. Unfold one end over the bed, and a splendid substitute table is
provided, useful for reading, games, and other purposes. If the table
rests too low on the bed, adjust it with cushions. This is far more
convenient than using a tray.--John P. Rupp, Norwalk, Ohio.
Morris Chair with Newspaper Rack, and Smoker’s Trays
BY J. E. Bronson
A comfortable and novel after-dinner chair for the man in the household
can be made by fitting a morris chair, or other armchair, with devices
which appeal especially to a man. The chair shown is that of the
ordinary mission morris type. It is of simple outline and can be made
by the home mechanic of fair skill in furniture making. The details of
its construction, while not essential to a description of the special
fittings, are shown in the several working drawings. The joints used
for the framework are of the common mortise-and-tenon variety. The back
is a plain frame, fitted with vertical slats, and hinged to a shoulder
in the back legs, as shown in the side view. For a substantial piece of
furniture, oak or other hard wood should be used; as a piece of porch
or summer-cottage furniture, the chair may be made of softer woods.
The cushion can be made of various leathers, or upholstery fabrics. It
is built over a wooden frame and is removable. The seat bottom may be
paneled, and a loose cushion fitted into it, and a similar one bound
with thongs to the back of the chair.
The drawer is slightly different from the standard construction in that
the front is arranged as a blind rail. It fits snugly between the front
legs and is suspended from strips fitted between the pairs of legs at
the sides.
No handle is provided, as the drawer can be opened easily by grasping
it underneath the front board. Pipes, smoker’s supplies, or a variety
of other articles may be stored handily in it.
[Illustration: These Novel Features of a Morris or Armchair Increase
Its Comfort and Usefulness, and can be Made Easily by the Home Mechanic]
The newspaper rack, as detailed, is made up of strips forming a basket,
which supported by a rod pivoted in wooden hangers, one on each of the
side legs, adjoining the rack. When papers are not being taken out or
placed in it, the rack is tilted back against the side of the chair
arm. The ash and tobacco trays, which may be made large enough for
cigars, are suspended under the right chair arm by means of rings made
of strips of brass. These holders are pivoted on bolts, and the trays
can be removed easily for cleaning. They are ordinarily swung out of
the way, under the arm. The special features of the chair may also be
adapted to the needs of nonsmokers.
* * * * *
¶The nuisance of soiled fingers and pen grip in lettering, when using
a deep ink bottle, can be avoided by filling a bottle up to the neck
with cement, and using only the neck as an inkwell.
Homemade Talking-Machine Cabinet
An old six-foot folding screen, three-ply ¹⁄₄-in. panels from a packing
box, and parts from secondhand talking machines, were used to make the
cabinet shown in the photograph reproduced. The screen was cut down to
form a framework of the desired height for the sides and back. Other
parts of the screen were used for the frames of the doors on the front,
and for the top. The panels were made from a good quality of three-ply
stock, with a hardwood face, which was scraped, sandpapered, and
brought to a very smooth finish. The material happened to have a pretty
grain, and this added to the effect when it was stained and varnished.
Pieces of this stock were used for the sounding horn and for other
interior fittings, such as the shelves for records and the drawer below
the horn. Space is provided for a large supply of records.
[Illustration: A Cabinet was Made by an Amateur Woodworker at a Cost of
$16.35 for Materials]
A secondhand two-spring motor, a turntable, and a sound arm from a disk
machine were fitted into the cabinet, and gave excellent service. Care
in staining the woodwork, shellacking, and varnishing it with several
coats, gave the cabinet almost a commercial finish, and at a cost of
$16.35 for all materials.
Eggshells as Flowerpots
[Illustration: Seeds were planted in the Eggshells, Which were Broken
without Disturbing the Roots When Transplanted]
A novel method of caring for small plants until they are ready to be
set out in the garden is shown in the photograph reproduced. Holes
were bored in the bottom of the till of an old trunk and eggshells
fitted into them. Seeds were planted in the shells and the names of the
varieties were marked on them. The arrangement is compact, and when the
plants are ready for planting, the shells may be broken, and the plants
set without disturbing the roots--Charles Darlington, Des Moines, Ia.
A Recording Annunciator Target
In rifle practice it is often desirable to provide a target which will
indicate to the marksman when the bull’s-eye is struck. The device
shown in the sketch, arranged behind an ordinary card target, has given
satisfactory results on a private range, and can easily be adapted for
other uses.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
The Bullet Forces the Hinge against the Thumbscrew, Causing the Bell to
Ring]
Referring to Fig. 1, A indicates a wooden base, 4 by 8 by ¹⁄₂ in., on
which is mounted a strap hinge, B, 6¹⁄₂ in. long, by means of a block,
1³⁄₈ in. high. An opening, C, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, is provided in the
base, and a plate, D 1³⁄₄ in. square, is riveted to the strap hinge
opposite to the opening. An electromagnet, E, obtained from an electric
bell, is mounted upon the base under the small end of the hinge. A
standard, F, provided with a cross arm, G, is secured upon the base
between the opening and the magnet. A thumbscrew with a locknut extends
through the cross arm, engaging the rear side of the strap hinge,
and permits an adjustment of distance between the core of the magnet
and the surface of the hinge. A bell or buzzer, H, is connected as
indicated, through the battery circuit. The electromagnet is connected
through the battery and push button J.
The strap hinge normally rests against the electromagnet. The force of
any projectile passing through the opening against the plate closes
the bell circuit and indicates to the marksman that the bull’s-eye has
been hit. By the closing of the magnet circuit, the strap hinge is
drawn again into normal position and the bell circuit is broken. Figure
2 shows a front view of the circuit-closing device. The device may
be mounted in any suitable box, as suggested in Fig. 3. The front of
the box is covered with sheet metal, ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick, and the standard
target card is mounted thereon.--John B. Brady, Washington, D. C.
* * * * *
¶A convenient method of holding paper in a roll is to fasten a wire
clip at each end near the edge of the piece.
Scraper for Tennis Court
[Illustration: A Tennis Court was Smoothed and Leveled by the Use of
This Scraper, Made Quickly of Rough Lumber]
In order to level and scrape a tennis court, which was in bad
condition, the two-man scraper shown in the sketch was made. It is
built of rough lumber, and a metal shoe is fixed to the lower edge
of the scraping blade at the rear. The bearing at the front is on a
flat-bottom sled of wood, and the depth of the cut is regulated by
pressure on the handle. The scraping blade is set at an angle, as shown
in the smaller sketch. By lifting the handle slightly, the operator is
able to deposit dirt in holes so that when the court is rolled they
are filled evenly. Where a large number of courts are to be smoothed,
the device may be adapted and made large enough to be drawn by a
horse.--Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.
Barrel Staves as Springs for Play Auto
I made springs for a small foot-power automobile by using barrel
staves joined together in the shape of pointed oval wagon springs.
Two strong staves were nailed together at each end and braced with a
block where they were nailed. Two of these springs were placed over the
rear axle and one of them was set over the front axle extending in the
direction of its length. The wooden springs made the automobile ride
comfortably.--Charles Delbridge, St. Louis, Mo.
Hall Seat with Storage Compartment
[Illustration: Details Showing the Construction of a Hall Seat to be
Made in Mission Style]
The illustration represents a simple design for an easily made and
substantial hall seat, provided with a compartment for odds and ends.
It is advisable to make it of wood to match its surroundings. The
following material is necessary:
2 ends, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 28 in
2 rails, ⁷⁄₈ by 6 by 38 in.
1 seat board, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 36¹⁄₄ in.
1 bottom board, ⁷⁄₈ by 12¹⁄₄ by 36¹⁄₄ in.
2 seat cleats, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 12¹⁄₄ in.
2 bottom cleats, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 11¹⁄₂ in.
The two ends, A, are marked to the same outline and cut with a coping
or scroll saw. If a fine-toothed saw is used, the edges of the boards
can be easily smoothed with sandpaper, otherwise a file is necessary to
remove the coarse saw traces. The rails B are cut to size and squared
up at the ends, after which they can be placed at the proper places
on the ends A, which may then be marked for the notches to receive
the rails. In fastening the rails to the end pieces, 2-in. round-head
screws can be used. The seat C is attached to the back rail by 2-in.
butt hinges. To prevent the seat from sagging in the middle, it is
supported on each side by cleats screwed to the end pieces A. If the
seat is liable to warp it can be held straight by two cleats screwed
underneath. The bottom board D may be held in place by means of screws
through the rails, or by resting on cleats screwed to the end pieces.
The seat, when assembled and thoroughly sandpapered, can be finished to
suit.
Putting In Screw Hooks Neatly
To prevent a wire hook, when the last few turns are given, from marring
or scratching the surface, special care must be taken. A splendid way
to do the work neatly is to first lay a piece of stiff paper on the
surface where the hook is to be attached and hold it in place while
starting the screw hook. Turn the hook in the usual way through the
paper. When the hook is in place the paper can be removed by tearing it
off.--Contributed by Emile Parent.
A Window Ventilator
[Illustration: A Removable Window Board to Raise Lower Sash for
Ventilation between the Sashes]
The illustration shows a ventilator I constructed to allow air to pass
through between the upper and lower window sash. It consists of a board
8 or 10 in. wide, and as long as the window sash is wide. A short
distance from one end it is marked and cut on a slant. The small piece
removed is hinged to the main part so that it can be raised in taking
the board from the window. When the sash rests on the board it cannot
be removed from the window.--Contributed by David Hannigan, Orange,
Connecticut.
[Illustration: An Inexpensive Gluing Press
BY N. E. STUDEBAKER]
The floor space in our high-school shop is somewhat limited, leaving no
room on the floor for the gluing press, and during a large part of the
year the temperature on the floor is too low for gluing. We met these
conditions with the gluing press illustrated.
Three pairs, or sets, of steps, A, were made of pine, 2 in. thick,
and fastened in a series by strips B, so that they all would move
forward or backward between the guides C, which are nailed to the floor
above the shop. On one of the steps--the corresponding one in each
pair--rests a piece of wood, D, 4 in. wide and 2 in. thick, through
which, near its ends, are bored holes to receive lengths of 1-in. gas
pipe, E. Over these holes and screwed to the wood piece are 1-in. floor
flanges, F. The pipes E are threaded at one end so that they will screw
through the floor flanges about 3 in. On the other ends of the gas
pipes are fitted pieces of material, 4 in. wide and 2 in. thick, G,
resting on washers, which in turn rest on the locknuts H. The locknuts
H prevent the tees J from unscrewing in operating the press. A rod is
used through the tees as a handle for screwing the pipes E on or out of
the floor flanges F. On top of the pieces G rests the floor K, on which
are placed the pieces to be glued. On the under side of the ceiling
joists, and directly over the floor K, is spiked the 2-in. piece L,
between which piece and the floor K the material is pressed. For the
sake of stiffness and lightness the floor K is built up of 1-in.
material, as shown in the detail. This floor may be raised or lowered
by the windlass M. The windlass is simply a ³⁄₄-in. gas pipe turning in
bearings fastened to the under side of the ceiling joists.
[Illustration: The Gluing Press is Attached to the Ceiling Where It Is
Out of the Way and Where the Temperature Is More Correct for Making a
Strong-Holding Joint]
Supposing the press to be standing as shown in the drawings, it is
operated as follows: The pipes E are unscrewed so that their upper
ends are flush with the top surface of the floor flanges F. The ropes
N are wound up a trifle on the windlass M, thus raising the pieces D,
the pipes E, and the floor K. Lifting D clear of the steps releases
the latter so that the entire series may be moved to the right by
pulling the rope O. In unwinding the ropes from the windlass, D is let
down on the lowest step, which has just been drawn directly under it.
This operation lowers the floor K to its lowest limit and the pieces
to be glued are placed, one on the other, on this floor. If the total
thickness of the material to be glued is sufficient to nearly fill the
space between the floor and the piece L, a rod is thrust through J, and
the pipes are screwed up, thus pressing the material between the floor
K and the piece L. If, however, the material does not fill the space
well, then the ropes N are wound up on the windlass M, thus raising
the floor and its contents as far as possible, and by pulling the rope
P the steps are drawn as far to the left as possible and D rests on a
higher step, thus lessening the space to be taken up by the screws. The
pipes are then screwed up tightly as in the first operation. Our press
is operated from a mezzanine floor where all the gluing is done.
A Luminous-Minnow Fish Bait
Make a plug of light wood, preferably cedar or white pine, 1³⁄₄ in.
long and ³⁄₄ in. in diameter at the large end, tapering to ¹⁄₄ in. at
the small end. Finish it to the shape of a minnow and bore a ⁵⁄₁₆-in.
hole, 1 in. deep, in the large end. Make a lead plug, with a hole
through the center, to drive tightly into the hole in the head of the
minnow, and finish the front end smooth and even with the wood. Run
a wire through the minnow and form an eye at the tail for hooks, and
another at the head for the swivel. A three-cornered piece of tin
inserted ¹⁄₂ in. back of the head on each side and bent so that the
water will cause it to turn gives motion to the lure.
[Illustration: Bait Shaped Like a Minnow and Coated with Luminous Paint
for Night Fishing]
Two coats of luminous paint will be sufficient for the illumination.
Expose the minnow to the light for several hours, and it will give a
luminous glow in the dark that makes it easily seen by the fish as it
is drawn through the water. As most game fish are night feeders, it
makes a very effective lure.--Contributed by Charles Carrol, Saint
Cloud, Fla.
To Prevent Putty Sticking to the Hands
When purchasing putty buy a little whiting. This is one of the
ingredients of the putty. Mix enough of it with the putty to absorb the
excess oil. This will prevent it from sticking to the hands. It also
gives the putty more body and makes it much easier to handle.
Signal for Lighted Lights in Basement
[Illustration: The Small Lamp near the Switch in Circuit Glows When
Lights Are On in the Basement]
To avoid the loss of electric current by forgetting to turn out the
light in the basement, I placed a 3-cp. lamp in the circuit near the
switch at the head of the stairs. The small light is a signal that the
light is still turned on in the basement.--Contributed by A. MacCunn,
Toronto, Can.
Dies for Cutting Cardboard
An inexpensive, yet very efficient, die for cutting quantities of tin
foil, sheet lead, paper, and cardboard can be made from a steel rule
such as used by printers. Procure a rule, two points or about ¹⁄₃₂
in. thick, which comes in 2-ft. lengths. The rule can be readily bent
without annealing. Bend it to the desired shape and solder, or weld,
the ends together. To give it rigidity, fill in the space with melted
lead to a depth of half the height of the die.
Place the material to be cut against the die and put both into a
vise, or letter press. Apply pressure steadily until the die has cut
through the last thickness of the material. As many as 5 pieces can be
placed and cut at one time. When cutting designs for static machines,
etc., from tin foil, this appliance does away with the tedious work
of cutting one at a time, and then, too, they will all be uniform.
In making the connection at the ends of the rule, be sure that they
meet evenly and do not lap to make the joint.--Contributed by M. H.
Granholt, Long Beach, Cal.
How to Make a Vacuum Pail
As a substitute for a vacuum bottle a very efficient pail can be made
in the following manner: Procure a 1-gal. sirup pail for the outside
and a ¹⁄₂-gal. size for the inside. Make a collar of tin, as shown,
with projections; bend these down, inside and outside, then solder the
collar to the inside of the larger pail, and the smaller pail to the
inside of the collar. Be sure to make a perfectly air-tight joint in
the soldering. This gives a double wall with an air-tight space all
around the inner pail, or opening. To make vacuum covers for the pails,
take two covers of each size and solder them together, as shown.
[Illustration: A Two-Wall Pail with Covers in Which a Partial Vacuum is
Made]
To produce a vacuum, make a small hole in the metal forming the collar,
also one in each cover. Put a few drops of water in each vacuum
compartment and set the parts on a heated surface. When the steam
escapes, solder the holes. This will produce a partial vacuum in the
space around the inner pail and in the covers. This will make a very
efficient vacuum pail.--Contributed by John H. Spicer, Magnolia, Ark.
Ironing Board for Use on a Table
[Illustration: A Cleat Fastened to the Underside of an Ironing Board to
Hold It on the Table Top]
A handy ironing board for use on kitchen or dining-table top is made
with a cleat to keep it from moving across the table top. The cleat,
which is 1¹⁄₂ or 2 in. wide, is fastened to the board with screws. If
desired, the board can be made as immovable as the table top by putting
another cleat at one end, so that the two cleats will hold against
one side and one edge of the table top.--Contributed by H. S. Craig,
Rushford, Minn.
Combination Bookcase and Writing Desk
In planning a writing desk, much convenience can be added by providing
it with a bookcase, in which may be stored those reference works most
frequently used. The design illustrated furnishes ample room as a
drawing desk, besides providing sufficient space in an inclosed cabinet
for books or letter-filing cases.
[Illustration: Combined Bookcase and Writing Desk Which can be Made Up
in Golden Oak, Mission, or Mahoganized Birch, and will Appear Well with
Other Furniture of Like Construction]
The material required, figuring exact sizes, is as follows:
2 sides, ⁷⁄₈ by 16¹⁄₂ by 67 in.
1 bottom shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 12 by 32¹⁄₄ in.
1 top shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 9¹⁄₄ by 32¹⁄₄ in.
1 back, ³⁄₈ by 40 by 31 in., made of pieces of convenient widths.
1 desk board, ⁷⁄₈ by 16¹⁄₈ by 30 in.
1 lower bookcase shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 9¹⁄₈ by 30 in.
1 middle bookcase shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 8³⁄₈ by 30 in.
1 desk cover, ⁷⁄₈ by 15¹⁄₂ by 30 in.
1 upper back rail, ⁷⁄₈ by 5 by 30 in.
Bookcase Doors
4 stiles, ³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ by 19 in.
4 rails, ³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ by 13¹⁄₂ in.
2 mullions, ¹⁄₄ by 1 by 17¹⁄₂ in.
2 mullions, ¹⁄₄ by 1 by 13¹⁄₂ in.
1 pigeon-hole stock, ³⁄₈ by 7 by 72 in.
For Main Drawer
1 front, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 30 in.
2 sides, ³⁄₈ by 4 by 15¹⁄₂ in.
1 back, ³⁄₈ by 3¹⁄₄ by 29¹⁄₂ in.
1 bottom, ³⁄₈ by 15¹⁄₄ by 29¹⁄₂ in.
2 drawer slides, ⁷⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ by 15 in.
1 lower rail, ⁷⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ by 30 in.
1 molding strip, ¹⁄₄ by ³⁄₈ by 120 in.
As the main sides are of considerable width, it would be best to make
them of two pieces glued together and, in order to obtain a strong and
neat joint, to have this done by an experienced joiner, or in the mill.
The back edges should be carefully planed, and rabbeted ³⁄₈ in. deep by
¹⁄₂ in. wide for the ³⁄₈-in. thick back. The bottom or foot piece of
the sides should be squared up with the back edges, or the completed
desk is liable to be winding, or warped. The bottom and top shelves or
main cross braces should be marked and cut out, and, to be in harmony
with the shape of the sides, the lower-shelf tenons are made wider than
those on the upper shelf. The top shelf should be rabbeted ¹⁄₂ in. deep
by ³⁄₈ in. wide, to fit the back boards which are nailed to it. The
required mortises in the sidepieces are marked from the corresponding
tenons of the shelves, and can then be cut out with a chisel. When
finished, the four parts constituting the frame should be assembled,
and may be held together with blind screws, or dowel pins, passed
through the tenons.
The desk board and two library shelves should then be fitted, and
fastened in place with blind screws through the sides, or with cleats
from the inside. For a neat, finished appearance, the back boards
should be carefully joined, exposing no cracks, and fastened with
nails driven into the various shelves. The upper rail, resting on the
bookcase, and the lower rail, forming part of the drawer support, can
then be fitted and secured to the sides with blind screws, either from
the outside or diagonally through the rails from the inside. Drawer
slides are fitted in place flush with the top edge of the lower rail,
and fastened to the sides with screws.
In making the drawer, the usual construction should be followed. The
front piece should be rabbeted near its lower edge to fit the drawer
bottom, and notched ¹⁄₂ in. at each end to fit the sides. The bottom
and end pieces fit into grooves cut in the sides. Suitable drawer pulls
or knobs should be provided.
For the doors of the bookcase, the best construction would be to tenon
the rails into the stiles about ¹⁄₂ in. The glass panel fits in a
notch, ¹⁄₂ in. deep and ¹⁄₄ in. wide, cut around the inside ledge of
the door, and is held in position with molding strips. In order to give
the door an appearance of being divided into four parts, mullions, or
cross strips, are fitted on the outer side of the glass flush with
the rails and stiles, and fastened to them with brads. The doors are
attached with butt hinges.
In making the desk door, a specially selected board should be used, as
the finished appearance of the desk will greatly depend on this. The
ends and sides should be perfectly squared, and the lower or hinge end
cut beveled corresponding to the edge of the desk board. Butt hinges
are used to secure it in position, and hinged brackets or chains
provided to support it when open. When closed, it rests against a strip
fastened to the lower side of the bottom bookcase shelf.
In arranging the pigeonholes it is best to have the inside boards
rest on the desk board, so that, when desired, the entire arrangement
of the drawers and shelves may be withdrawn easily. When thoroughly
sandpapered and finished to taste, a serviceable, handy and attractive
piece of furniture is obtained, suitable for either office or
home.--Contributed by James Gaffney, Chicago.
Automatic Stop for Spring-Roller Curtains
[Illustration: The Rubber Ball Fastened on the String at the Stick
Prevents the Curtain from Winding Up]
It frequently occurs, in adjusting spring-roller curtains, that the
cord slips through the hand and the curtain not only winds up to the
top but continues until the spring has spent its force, and the curtain
and cord are rolled up out of reach. It is then necessary to use a
chair, or stepladder, to readjust it. All this trouble and annoyance
can be avoided if a small hollow rubber ball is obtained, and holes
punched through so it may be threaded on the curtain string, and tied
close to the stick. Should the curtain slip away with this attachment,
the ball will jam up against the window frame, preventing further
winding up.--Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago, Ill.
Spoon Attachment to Prevent Child from Using Left Hand
[Illustration: The Projection Keeps the Spoon from Entering the Mouth
When Taken in the Left Hand]
To discourage a child from using a spoon in the left hand, a
projection was made of a piece of brass, filed into the shape shown
in the illustration. After the projection was attached, the entire
spoon was plated. This makes it impossible to use the spoon in the
left hand, as the projection will prevent the bowl from entering the
mouth.--Contributed by W. H. Hutchinson, Hamilton, Ont.
A High Chair
[Illustration: An Inverted Solid-Bottom Chair with Attachments Used for
a Child’s High Chair]
Where a high chair is not at hand or available, an ordinary
solid-bottom kitchen chair can be used instead, if rigged up as shown
in the illustration. The chair is reversed, and the back is used as one
support, while two pieces of wood fastened to the sides form the other.
A seat board is fastened to the upper side rounds, and a table board
to the two lower side rounds. A small piece is nailed to the two back
posts for a back.--Contributed by J. S. Fritzen, Minneapolis, Minn.
Blower for a Fireplace
Having considerable trouble with a smoky fireplace when trying to start
a coal fire in the basket grate, I decided to make a blower of sheet
iron. A blower covers the upper part of the fireplace and forces the
draft through the basket grate until the fire gets a good start, then
it can be removed. Before making the blower I again had trouble one
morning when the chimney would not draw, and the whole room became
filled with smoke; I then grabbed a newspaper and held it up against
the upper part of the fireplace like a regular blower. To my surprise
the suction of the chimney held the newspaper in place without any
outside aid. In a few minutes the fire was roaring, and best of all,
when it became hot, the newspaper caught fire and was sucked into the
flames. This in reality became an automatic blower, as it removed
itself when no longer needed.--Contributed by Charles F. Kopp, Amite,
La.
An Ironing-Board Wall Fastening
[Illustration: Ironing Board Supported on Wood Hinges at the Wall to
Provide a Space for the Covering]
One of the most useful and convenient articles for a household is an
ironing board, one end of which is fastened to the wall by means of
hinges to allow it to be folded up against the wall when not in use.
Wood brackets are preferable to the metal hinges, as there must be some
little space between the wall and the board to allow for the thickness
of the covering. The brace which extends from near the end of the board
to the base of the wall is best hinged with canvas strips, as they will
last better than any other material for this joint. The hinges should
be put in place when the board is in a vertical position to allow
the brace to go in position without straining.--Contributed by J. H.
Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.
Oars Flattened to Make Rowing Easier
When rowing a small boat, we were bothered by the turning of the oars
in the locks, so that the blade of the oar was not in proper position
to take the water. We overcame this by planing off slightly one side
of the oar, so that when this surface was against the lock, the blade
was in the correct position to catch the water. It is unnecessary to
grip these oars tightly, as they fall naturally into place and save
the novice a great deal of trouble. In locks where this method is
undesirable, the handgrips may be cut as a guide.--H. D. Burnside,
Madison, Wis.
A One-Piece Bracelet Cut from a Calling Card
[Illustration: It Is Hard to Imitate a Quick and Skillful Performance
of This Simple Trick]
A trick that will amuse and interest persons both old and young can
be performed with a calling card, cigarette paper, or other similar
material, cut with a scissors or knife, as indicated in the diagram.
The card is shown, and the performer announces that he will pass his
hand through the card, making a bracelet of it. He will, of course, be
challenged, and proceeds as follows: He folds the card lengthwise and
cuts through two thicknesses from 1 to 2, 3 to 4, etc.; then opens the
card, and cuts from 1 to 13. By stretching the paper, as shown in the
sketch, the hand may be passed through the card readily. The spectators
are soon trying to duplicate the trick.--R. E. Jones, Velasco, Texas.
Device for a Finger Tug-of-War Game
Considerable pleasure and pastime was afforded by the tug-of-war game
which I made. Two contestants, one at each end, take hold of the
rollers with their forefingers and thumbs and endeavor to move the
pointer to their respective ends. The game interests persons of various
ages, and they all want to try it.
[Illustration: The Contestants Grasp the Rollers, One at Each End, and
Attempt to Draw the Pointer Over in Their Favor]
The device should be made strongly to stand the wear on it. The top and
bottom are boards, ¹⁄₂ by 8 by 24 in., and four blocks, 3 in. high and
2¹⁄₂ in. square, are fastened between them at the corners with screws.
The rollers are set in the blocks, and held by small nails passing
through them and set against the inner faces of the blocks. The pointer
is made of a strip of brass, bent to the shape shown. Cords extend from
the pointer inside of the box and are tied to the rollers.--James E.
Noble, Kingston, Ontario, Can.
* * * * *
¶In applying a white paint over a dark, or mottled, surface, tint the
first coat with a little black, making it gray; then the next coat
will show solid white.
Window Frame and Table for Dark Room
BY JOSEPH LIMBRUNNER
The amateur photographer often has a poor dark room, sometimes made
worse by the use of an evil-smelling lamp. If he wishes to use a room
that has daylight, he finds it difficult to convert the room quickly
for his purposes, especially if he desires to make use of the daylight
for his work. Under these conditions, the arrangement described in
this article was devised, and proved so satisfactory that I pass it on
to the host of amateurs who find satisfaction in making part of their
equipment. The table and window frame in place are shown in Fig. 1.
The table is removed by withdrawing the rod, and bending up the hinged
legs. The frame and window covering are removed by releasing the four
small hooks. Ruby, yellow, or ground glass may be inserted in the
sliding frame, as required, nearly all of the light being shut out, or
light admitted without a glass, by sliding the frame.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
With This Sliding Frame and Folding Table, the Work of the Photographic
Dark Room can be Done by Daylight in the Home Bathroom]
The general arrangement of the parts is shown in Fig. 2. The dimensions
are suggestive only, being suited to a small window in a bathroom,
where the equipment was installed. The table is merely a board top
supported by hinged legs, which are braced by a removable round wooden
rod. A frame, C, as detailed in the section at A-B, Fig. 3, is fitted
closely in the window casing. It is covered with heavy cardboard,
tacked on. The ways J, in which the frame for the glass slides, are
fixed to the lower rail of the frame C, and to a crossbar at its
middle. A 5 by 7-in. opening is cut in the cardboard to admit the
light, as shown in Fig. 2. Holes D are bored in the ways to receive
pins which hold the frame at various positions, as indicated by the
stop holes E, Fig. 4.
The sliding frame is detailed in Fig. 4. It consists of a back frame
of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, sliding in the grooves of the ways J, and a frame of
1-in. stuff, mounted on the front of it. The openings may be made to
suit the size of plate to be used, 5 by 7-in. openings being indicated.
The openings are provided with rabbeted edges, as indicated by the
width G, and the height H, in which frames of light weight, for the 5
by 7-in. glass plates, are fitted. The frames may be made, or plain,
cheap picture frames may be used. The sliding frame is raised and
lowered by means of the handle F. The cardboard covering the larger
frame should be painted a dull black, and the wooden parts may be
shellacked in the natural color.
When developing films or plates, the frames with the red and yellow
glasses should be inserted in the sliding frame, and held in place
by turn buttons. The red glass will ordinarily be satisfactory for
developing, but on very bright days, with the sun shining directly on
the glass, a layer or two of “post-office” paper is placed over it.
The yellow glass may be used when fixing, and other work requiring a
subdued light, but not when developing is done. For printing, put in
the yellow and the ground glasses, the latter admitting sufficient
light for the purpose. To use the dark room occasionally in the
evening, I set a lamp on a well-protected shelf outside of the opening
in the cardboard, and proceed as in the use of daylight.
Non-Blow-Out Cigar and Pipe Lighter
[Illustration]
“It is a poor Irishman that cannot light his pipe when the wind is
blowing,” but the sketch shows a device that will make a “Paddy” out of
anyone, with a great saving of matches. It is made from a small piece
of brass tubing, or drawn shell, ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, and about 1¹⁄₂
in. long. The open end is placed in the bowl of the pipe or over the
end of the cigar, a match inserted through the slot, and a quick stroke
on the threaded portion ignites the match. The small holes provide air.
The top is soldered in place.--James H. Rodgers, Montreal, Canada.
Electric Counting Glass for Thread Fabric
The intelligent housewife and shopper, as well as persons
professionally interested in the structure and quality of woven fabrics
of various kinds, can make good use of a counting glass for close
examination of such material. In its simplest form the device consists
of a cigar box with a ground-glass top and a small electric light
inside. Where larger pieces of goods are to be examined a small table
with wooden legs and wooden frame for the glass may be made.
[Illustration: Woven Fabrics are Examined under the Magnifying Glass
and the Number of Threads to the Square Inch Counted]
The diagrams at A and B represent the threads making up the cloth as
stretched on the rollers of a loom. The lengthwise threads, or warp,
are shown at A, and the cross threads, or weft, at B. By magnifying
the material with a glass exposing an area of ¹⁄₂ or 1 in. square, the
threads may be counted or closely examined and the quality determined.
This also enables one to identify goods as being the same.--F. Ball
Pinkus, La Crescenta, California.
* * * * *
¶An inexperienced workman broke eight curved window panes on a lake
steamer by attempting to cut them on the inside, instead of on the
outside of the curve, in fitting the glass.
Clock Device to Record Time of Appointments and Other Events
An ordinary clock, fitted with an electrical device to record the
length of telephone conversations or appointment hours, or indicate
when a door is opened, is shown in the illustration. The record is made
by the hands in contact with brass rings attached to the face of the
clock, the front of the rings being covered with white paper, dipped in
a chemical, on which black dots are caused to appear, at each contact.
By examining the dots and noting the items corresponding to them on a
memorandum, the length of conversations, etc., may be observed.
[Illustration: The Electrical Device Attached to the Clock Records
Contacts Made by the Opening of a Door, and the Using of a Telephone]
Two rings of ¹⁄₁₆-in. brass, one within the other, and having
side arms, are mounted on the front of the clock, as shown in the
illustration. The ring on arm A should be slipped under both hands, and
should have spring enough to hold it in contact with the small clock
hand. The ring fixed to arm B must be in contact with the large hand,
but must be some distance from the small hand and the smaller ring, so
that they will not come into contact when the hands cross each other.
An offset in the arm A, and a piece of mica insulation, are provided
where the larger ring crosses the bar A. On the surface of each ring,
between it and its respective hand, is glued a piece of white paper,
cut to conform with the ring, but ¹⁄₁₆ in. larger, so as to extend over
the outer edge of the brass rings. The rings of paper are saturated in
a solution of potassium chloride and permitted to dry, before being
placed on the brass rings.
A high-tension current, passing through the coil D, enters the arm A,
passes to the small hand, to the large hand, and out at the terminal on
arm B. Black dots will appear on the prepared paper at the position of
the hands, when the contact is made.
The primary wires E and F may be attached to a doorbell or to a contact
on the door, indicating on the prepared paper the length of time the
door was held open, as well as the time at which it was opened. The
arms A and B must be well insulated from one another. For greater
accuracy in recording time, to within ¹⁄₂ minute, prepared paper dials,
with hour and minute marks, coming into contact with the hands at small
projections punched in the hands from their upper surfaces, should be
used. An ordinary secondary coil from an automobile may be used, and if
the clock has a wooden case, the arms may be fastened directly to it.
Practical Memorandum for Odd Jobs
Not infrequently home or shop mechanics find that trifling odd jobs
are neglected repeatedly, simply because they are not of sufficient
consequence to warrant getting out the tools or materials necessary for
the work. A convenient method of insuring that these small jobs are not
overlooked is to make a memorandum of them and place it with the tools
required for the work. For instance, if a small job of soldering is to
be done, a memorandum placed with the soldering outfit will not easily
be overlooked, and the work may be done while the coppers are hot for
use in a larger job. Likewise with small painting jobs. Sometimes only
a brushful of paint is needed and one does not care to mix a small
quantity of paint nor clean the brush afterward. A memorandum of the
job makes this unnecessary.--John Hoeck, Alameda, California.
A Homemade Vulcanizer
Tire tubes may be vulcanized satisfactorily in the home garage, or even
on the road, with the simple device shown in the sketch. It is made
as follows: Obtain a piece of sheet iron, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, 3 in. wide,
and 5 in. long. Drill a ¹⁄₄-in. hole at the middle of each end. Fit a
strip of similar stock, 1 in. wide and 5 in. long, to the first piece
with bolts, as shown. Procure a tin cover without embossing on the top,
such as is used on baking-powder cans. Cut several disks to fit in
the cover, from heavy cardboard; soak them thoroughly in a saturated
solution of saltpeter, and dry them. Wrap each disk in oiled paper, and
keep them in a water-tight container.
[Illustration: This Homemade Vulcanizer Utilizes the Heat from a Slowly
Burning Disk of Cardboard]
To use the vulcanizer, clean the area around the hole in the tube with
sandpaper, and cut a piece of rubber of the proper size to fit over it.
Slip one of the prepared cardboard disks into the tin cover, and clamp
the cover and tire with patch into the iron frame, as shown. Touch
a lighted match to the cardboard disk, which will burn rapidly, but
without flame, supplying sufficient heat to vulcanize the tube.--Thomas
W. Benson, Hastings on Hudson, N. Y.
Rudder for a Toboggan
[Illustration: This Rudder for a Toboggan Insures Positive Control, and
Prevents Wear on the Shoes and Clothes of the Rider]
Learning to steer a toboggan by means of the foot dragged behind it is
an interesting feature of the sport, but this method is dangerous at
times and results in much wear on shoes and clothes. The device shown
in the illustration makes this method of steering unnecessary and gives
the rider accurate control over the sled. It consists of a strip of ¹⁄₄
by 1-in. iron curved to form a rudder at one end and twisted at the
middle to provide a flat piece for pivoting it on the rear cleat of the
sled, as shown in the working drawing below. A handle is fastened to
the front end of the strip with bolts. The rudder should not be curved
too deeply or it will cut through the snow and be damaged, or ruin the
track.--H. B. Mclntyre, Waterville, Me.
A Window Refrigerator
[Illustration: A Box Fitted on the Outside of the Window to Slide in
Grooves Provides a Convenient and Inexpensive Refrigerator for Winter
Use]
A simple method of constructing a window refrigerator that will not
obstruct the light is shown in the illustration. A box was made the
width of the window and was fitted to slides fastened outside the
window on the side of the house. The exposed sides of the box were
inclosed completely and the inner side was provided with two sliding
doors. A handle was fitted to the side of the box so that, by reaching
out of the window, the box could be drawn in front of the opening
easily. Several shelves were fitted into it and the materials stored
were not easily molested. Trunk casters attached to the bottom of the
box improved the action on the lower rail.--Hubert Kann, Pittsburgh, Pa.
Toy Paper Glider Carefully Designed
A paper glider is an interesting and useful toy that can be made
quickly; it may be used out of doors, but occasions when weather
conditions make it necessary to remain indoors are especially good for
this form of pastime. The glider shown in the sketch was worked out
after considerable testing. With a toss it travels 20 to 30 ft., on a
level keel, with a message slipped behind a pin, as shown in the upper
sketch. The inventive boy may devise many play uses for the glider in
tournaments, competitions, and for “military” flights, in which the
“drivers” of the devices may “annihilate armies.” Practical use of the
toy was made in a series of air-current tests.
[Illustration: The Glider will Travel 30 Feet, Carrying a Message, if
Carefully Made]
The glider is made as follows: Fold a piece of paper, 10 by 15 in.,
lengthwise, and mark the outline shown at the left upon it. The
dimensions should be followed carefully. Measure first from the end A
to the point B, and then draw the slanting line to D, at an angle of
45°. Mark the width to E, and measure the other distances from A and at
the middle, to determine the curve of the edge. Mark the dotted lines
extending from D, which are guides for the folding of the paper to
form the glider, as shown in the lower sketch. Curl the points under
the side so that the line FD comes to the position DG, and pin them to
the corners H, as shown in the lower sketch. The glider is tossed by
holding it between the thumb and forefinger at the middle of the fold
underneath it.--S. R. Edwards, Seattle, Wash.
Cleaning a Clock with Kerosene Fumes
A simple way of cleaning a clock is as follows: Remove the pendulum and
procure a ball of cotton wool, about half the size of a fist. Saturate
this with kerosene, and place it in a saucer, or a tin lid, in the case
under the works of the clock. Close the case and leave the cotton for
several days. It will then be found that the fumes from the kerosene
have brought down the dust from the works; in fact, the cotton will
be covered with black specks. It only remains to oil the bearings of
the works, and the clock will be quite in order.--S. Leonard Bastin,
Bournemouth, England.
A Reversible Photographic Developing Tank
BY LAWRENCE F. CAMPBELL
One of the chief difficulties in developing plates in a nonreversible
developing tank is that irregular development takes place, because
the developer tends to settle more or less, depending on the time
necessary for complete development. The construction of a reversible
tank is a simple matter, and the cost is slight. The tank described is
3¹⁄₄ by 4¹⁄₄, in. in size, but the dimensions can be varied for other
sizes of plates. The tank is a box having grooves in opposite ends for
the plates. By placing the latter back to back, 12 can be developed
at a time. Sheet rubber is fitted between the cover and the body of
the tank, and the cover, upon being screwed down, makes a water-tight
compartment of the box. The asphaltum paint used is not affected by
the developer, and preserves the wood. Fixing and developing may both
be done in the one tank, but it is preferable to use the tank for
developing only.
[Illustration: Assembly Views, Showing the General Construction and
Detail of the Cover]
The two sides are plain pieces, ¹⁄₂ by 4 by 4¹⁄₂ in. in size. The end
pieces have ¹⁄₈ by ¹⁄₈-in. grooves, ¹⁄₄ in. apart and extending the
length of the piece, which is ¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂ in. long. The grooves
can be made either on a power saw, or by chiseling them out by hand.
The bottom piece is ¹⁄₂ by 3¹⁄₂ by 5¹⁄₂ in. in size, with two ³⁄₈-in.
holes bored to receive the bolts. The two bolt supports are ¹⁄₂ by ³⁄₄
by 1 in., and are also bored ³⁄₈ in. to receive the bolts, and are
nailed to the end pieces. The cover is ¹⁄₂ by 3¹⁄₂ by 5¹⁄₂ in. long,
with a slot in each end for the bolts, which are ³⁄₈ by 6-in. carriage
bolts.
[Illustration: The Finished Tank, and Details of the Bottom, Ends, and
Bolt Supports]
The parts are assembled with screws, and the tank is given two coats of
asphaltum paint. Care should be taken, before assembling the parts, to
insure that the plates fit the grooves.
Turned Cane with Snakes Inlaid
The making of a cane is a favorite job for the home craftsman,
especially the veteran who finds himself in need of such a support and
has the leisure to make it. A novelty in constructions of this kind is
a turned cane built up of dark and light-colored woods with snakes
inlaid. That shown in the illustration was made of black walnut and
birch, with a walnut knob. It is made as follows: Glue up a piece of
walnut and a piece of birch, ⁷⁄₈ by 1³⁄₄ by 3 ft. long, as shown at A.
Mark out the snake on the birch surface, and cut it out very carefully
on the band saw, or with a fine hand turning saw. The snake portion
will drop out and is then separated into a walnut and a birch strip,
making two similar snakes. Bore holes for the eyes and plug them with
the opposite kind of wood. Replace the snakes in opposite positions,
the one of birch in the walnut side, and the walnut one in the birch
side. Glue them carefully into place, removing a small portion of the
wood at the ends of the sawed pieces to make a close fit.
[Illustration: This Novel Cane can be Turned in a Lathe or Planed from
the Square Stock, and Arouses Curiosity as to its Construction]
The stock then appears as at B, and is ready for turning in the lathe.
If desired, circles may be laid out on the ends of the stock, and the
piece planed down to the rounded and tapered form of a cane. This is a
more tedious job, but if carefully done with sharp tools will give good
results.
Turn down the shaft to the desired thickness, as shown at C, the upper
end being about 1 in. and the lower end ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter. Turn a
knob of walnut as suggested, and after sandpapering the work carefully,
finish it with shellac. Tip the bottom of the cane with a suitable
ferrule.--E. K. Wehry, Cedar Rapids, Ia.
An Inexpensive Dry-Plate Kit
[Illustration: This Dry-Plate Kit is Made of Cardboard and Serves the
Purpose Admirably if Carefully Fitted]
Wishing to use some 2¹⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₄-in. plates in a 6¹⁄₂ by 8¹⁄₂-in.
camera, I made kits that proved satisfactory, as follows, the method
being adaptable also to other sizes: A piece of cardboard the size of
the camera plate was procured. A rectangle, as at A, was cut in the
center, ¹⁄₁₆ in. larger each way than the plate. Paste, over the back
of the cut-out rectangle, a sheet of tough, thin paper, B, and glue two
small pieces of cardboard, as at C. Cut cardboard pieces D, E, F, and
G, proportioned as at H, and glue them into position, G being over the
others, the piece E sliding. If a dry plate is placed in the rectangle
and E is slid toward the plate, it will hold the latter in position.
The plate holder is loaded with the kit, and to prevent warping, a
couple of pins are driven into the plate holder, as at H. Figures J and
K indicate the open and closed positions. The ground glass is marked to
correspond with the rectangle, so that one can tell where to focus the
image.--L. L. Llewellyn, Piedmont, Calif.
Photographic-Print Washing Machine
BY HARRY MARCELLE
Many amateur photographers have occasion to make a considerable number
of prints and find the washing of them tedious, by the ordinary
methods. In order to overcome this difficulty the print-washing machine
shown in the sketch was made. It is simple in construction and performs
the work quite satisfactorily at a saving of not a little time. Since
the water in which the prints are washed must be agitated, a pivoted
tray is provided. A unique feature is the water wheel through which the
water supply passes, at the same time developing power to operate the
rocker arm, by means of which the tray is agitated.
The frame for the large trough, which contains the tray and other
apparatus, is made of 2 by 4-in. uprights, braced with 2 by 2-in.
pieces. The trough is made of ⁷⁄₈-in. stock, joined at the ends with a
water-tight grooved, or dado, joint. The top is fitted to form a cover
and may be hinged or arranged as a lid, supported and held in place
by cleats, fixed on its under side with screws. The trough and its
fittings may be made of a size suited to individual requirements. The
device illustrated is 4 ft. long, and has a trough 18 in. wide and 13
in. high. The interior of the trough is given a coat of tar to make it
waterproof, and the exterior may be painted thoroughly to preserve the
wood.
The rocking tray, in which the prints are placed, is made of ⁵⁄₈-in.
stock. It is 5 in. high, 15 in. wide, and 28 in. long. Splash boards
are fixed at its ends, as shown, and the bottom is made of muslin,
reinforced with wooden strips, ¹⁄₂ in. wide. The tray is supported on a
rod or pipe at its center, the ends of the support being set into the
sides of the trough. A crank arm of wood or metal is attached to the
center of one end of the tray, and operates through an opening in the
top of the trough. The crank arm engages a crank fixed to the shaft of
the water wheel, as shown in the sketch. The crank must be made not
longer than 2 in., or the resulting action on the tray will pour out
too much water, the prints being thus in danger of damage.
[Illustration: The Spray Forced from the Pipe Gives Power to the Water
Wheel, Which in Turn is Transferred to the Rocker Arm Attached to the
Tray]
The water wheel is made of two round disks of sheet metal, 9 in. in
diameter. Strips of wood are fitted between them so that the wheel is
3 in. wide on the face. Wooden blocks, grooved to fit the shaft of
the water wheel, are used as bearings. They are fixed to the top with
bolts. The water supply is provided through a pipe at one end. A cap
is fitted over the end of the extension on the pipe and a small hole
drilled through it. This forces the water against the blades of the
water wheel rather than permitting it to drop under normal pressure.
The flow of water is regulated by the valve on the supply pipe, and
the excess water is drained off at the opposite end of the trough. The
force of the water, as it leaves the water wheel, is lessened, and the
water carried gently to the tray, by means of a board set between the
top and the tray, at the wheel end of the trough.
A Washstand for the Baby
[Illustration]
To make this washstand, I mounted a cheese box on a frame 20 in. from
the floor, and fitted a shelf between the legs 9 in. from the floor. In
the center of this shelf a hole was cut, with a compass saw, to hold
a wash basin. Rods between the legs are handy for towels, washcloths,
etc. Within the circular box are kept baby’s toilet and bath articles.
The inside of the box is padded with cotton and lined with nainsook,
the latter being used, also, for the cover. When the cover is on the
box, the stand is used as a small table. White enamel gives the stand a
neat finish.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, New York.
Carrying Strap and Lock for Hand Cases
[Illustration]
The illustration shows how to make a locking device for hand cases or
satchels, and providing, also, a strap for carrying. Cut two pieces of
⁵⁄₈ by 2-in. strap iron, and two pieces, 2¹⁄₂ in. long. Bend them, and
fasten them with screws or rivets, as shown. When the case is carried,
the strap holds the crosspieces firmly.
Disk Talking-Machine Records Played Eccentrically
A hole was bored about an inch from the center of a disk
talking-machine record and the latter was placed on the machine with
the new hole over the center pin of the table. When the record was
played, the result was a reproduction extremely amusing and hardly
recognizable as compared with the original one.
Safety Flue Stopper Made of Tin Pail
[Illustration]
The usual method of covering stovepipe holes in chimneys with a tin
disk is not as safe as it should be, especially adjoining nonfireproof
material. A safer method is to fit a tin can, or a tin pail, into the
chimney hole, as shown. Cut it off the right length, with a pair of tin
shears, leaving projections as stops, and replace the disk stopper.--J.
A. Raught, Janesville, Wisconsin.
Book Rest for Music Stand
[Illustration]
The music-stand attachment shown in the illustration aids in the
handling of music books, and is easily made. Some stands are provided
with a supporting edge about 1 in. wide and will not properly carry
larger music books, and the device is attached to this edge. The device
is of wood, ³⁄₁₆ by 3¹⁄₄ in., and the length of the stand. On the
bottom, two wood strips are fastened. They are beveled as shown in the
sectional view, to wedge on the music rest.--L. R. W. Allison, Newark,
N. J.
Uses for Worn Talking-Machine Needles
Among the uses made of discarded steel talking-machine needles are the
following: as glazier’s tacks; as brads, where a headless nail or an
inconspicuous one is desired; as pins for fastening papers together;
and for the tacking in of the backs on picture frames.--William A.
Martin. Jersey City, N. J.
Automatic Photo-Print Washing
[Illustration]
A photographers’ automatic print-washing device may readily be made
with the aid of an alarm clock, and a spool to which a piece of thread
is attached as shown. The spool is fixed to the alarm-clock winder. An
upright support, having a nail driven into the top and bent over to
form a hook, carries the thread, to which the print is attached by a
small clip. The alarm-clock mechanism is then set, and when released
draws the print from the dish, the bell warning the operator.--George
H. Holden, Chesterfield, England.
Portable Sectional Poultry Fencing
Sectional poultry fencing has several advantages over stationary
fencing: It can be easily moved, the poultry yard being made larger,
smaller, or shifted; an area may be planted to a crop and gradually
included in the yard, furnishing greens for the poultry. Also, the
tenant who does not care to put down permanent equipment, will find
sectional fencing desirable.
[Illustration: Poultry Fencing Made in Portable Sections Has Several
Advantages over a Stationary Barrier]
Sections are practical to about 18 ft. long, and should be 7 ft. high
for the lighter breeds of poultry. If the fencing is to be used for
grown stock only, the fine-mesh wire below may be omitted, and 2-in.
mesh used. Some sections should be fitted with gates, and the top
batten should be set down about 1 ft., so as not to afford footing for
the poultry. The sections are lashed together with wire, and supported
by an occasional post, or guyed to buildings or supports.
Suitcase Holder for Running Board of Automobile
[Illustration: These Homemade Supports Are Adjustable to Suitcases of
Varying Widths]
Two metal strips, ³⁄₁₆ by 1¹⁄₂ by 20 in., were used to make a strong
and adjustable holder for suitcases carried on the running board of an
automobile. One-inch slots were cut near the top of the strips, which
were bent to form angles having an upright portion 12 in. long. The
angles are adjusted at the bolts, as shown, and the suitcase is held in
place by straps.--Lucien G. Baer, Los Angeles, Calif.
Wheelbarrow for Large Cans
[Illustration: Milk Cans were Handled Easily by Means of This Homemade
Cart]
Large cans for milk are awkward to handle and transport in the dairy or
barn, and the cart shown in the sketch was made from an old wheelbarrow
and sections of pipe, to make this work easy. The pipes were bent to
the shape shown and strongly braced with iron rods. A board bottom
was provided, and the barrow wheel was mounted between the forked
ends of the frame. The cart may be used for numerous other purposes,
and is especially convenient in that the load need only be lifted
slightly.--Monroe Woolley, San Francisco, Calif.
Plain Butts Used as Double-Swing Hinge
By placing two ordinary plain butt hinges so that two of their wings
overlap completely, they may be made to serve as a double-swing hinge.
If the holes do not correspond in the adjoining wings, drill new ones,
disposing them to give the best hold in the wood. Allowance must be
made in applying the hinge, for the double thickness of the center
portion.
* * * * *
¶A rubber finger tip is convenient in counting sheets in that the
paper is not soiled, since moistening of the finger is unnecessary.
Portable Skylight for Home Portraiture
BY W. W. IRVINE
Photographers who wish to construct a part of their equipment may be
interested in a portable skylight, which I made and use with thorough
satisfaction, for home portraiture. Covered with imitation leather,
it is quite presentable in carrying it about. Figure 9 shows the case
closed, with stand, flash lamp, box of flash powder, and a white-cloth
reflector inside. The apparatus set up for work is shown in Fig. 5, and
the details of construction in the other sketches.
First make the frames for the top and bottom of the case, A, of
³⁄₈ by 2¹⁄₂-in. wood, and B, of ³⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₄-in. stock, lengths and
construction as shown in Fig. 3. Cut from extra-heavy mount board, two
21 by 28-in. pieces, C, and tack one to one side of each of the frames.
Cut a similar piece, E, 15 by 26¹⁄₂ in., and hinge it with strong
cloth, or thin leather, to the inner side of the thicker frame, to form
the roof E, Fig. 5. Hinge the two frames with three butt hinges.
The frame is then ready for covering, and for this purpose imitation
leather is economical and practical. Two yards of 36-in. material is
needed. Use hot glue, first on the bottom half of the case, applying it
smoothly, and press the fabric into place. Then cover the sides, the
upper half, and the roof. The covering must be in one piece to prevent
the smoke from escaping at the joints. Glue down the edges inside of
the case, and set it aside for 24 hours to dry.
While waiting for the case to dry, the work on the bag can be done.
Two yards of close-woven white muslin, or one yard of 60-in. sheeting,
is required for the front. For the sides, closely woven black material
should be used. Figures 1 and 2 show the dimensions, the white portions
representing patterns, and the shaded portions material for hems
and seams. The material is folded over the pattern, basted down, and
hemmed at the dotted lines, 1¹⁄₂ in. from the edge. Sew the front to
the curved sides. Allowance for shrinkage, when the bag is washed and
fireproofed, has been made in these sizes.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 5
FIG. 7
FIG. 2
FIG. 8
FIG. 3
FIG. 9
FIG. 6
FIG. 4
This Homemade Skylight was Made at a Cost of $3, Gives Satisfactory
Service, and Is Not Unsightly]
For fireproofing the bag, the following formula is good: water, 60 oz.,
ammonium phosphate, 4 oz., ammonium chloride, 8 oz. Soak the fabric
half an hour, wring it out slightly, and hang it up to dry.
Cut a hole, 6 in. square, in the lower half of the case for the door
F, Fig. 5. The door is of galvanized sheet iron, 7 in. square, covered
on one side with imitation leather and provided with a leather handle.
The door slides in guides of mount board, or metal, as shown in Fig.
4. Figure 8 shows the notch below the door to allow play for the
spring of the flash lamp, in place in Figs. 5 and 6. Mine was made for
cartridges, but by attaching a pan of heavy tin, I use it for flash
powder.
The leather socket, into which the top of the holder G, is slipped, is
shown in detail in Fig. 7. Suitcase catches, D, lock the apparatus in
open or closed position. The roof E, is supported by two folding desk
slides.
To fasten the bag in place, slip a cheap yardstick, or strip, cut to
the proper length, in each of the hems at the edges, and set them
snugly inside and against the sides of the open case and under the edge
of the roof. Fasten them with screws, as shown at the edges in Fig. 5.
The bag is easily removed by withdrawing the screws and the strips, for
washing and fireproofing it again. The front must hang away from the
lamp before the charge is fired, or the bag may be burned. After firing
the flash, the skylight is carried out and the smoke expelled.
Fuel Box in Seat Filled from Floor Trapdoor
[Illustration: The Fuel is Placed in the Box by Passing It Up through
the Trapdoors in the Floor]
A fuel box for the fireplace may be easily arranged so that it is
unnecessary to carry the fuel through the living rooms, thus avoiding
soiling floors and rugs. It may be installed, as shown, for a summer
cottage, or even in the living room of a home. The fuel box is built
under the seat of a comfortable settle, and the wood, coal, etc., are
placed in the fuel compartment by passing it up through trapdoors in
the floor at the center of the box. The fuel is piled at each side
of the trapdoor behind a low partition, and the trapdoors are closed
when not in use. The seat of the fuel box is divided at the middle and
hinged to swing back. Suitable cushions should be provided for the
seat.--M. P. Norton, Chicago.
Homemade Relay of Inexpensive Materials
A practical relay was made of odds and ends gathered in the workshop.
The base is of wood, ³⁄₄ by 3 by 6 in. The magnets A are made of two
wire nails driven into the base, the heads projecting 1¹⁄₂ in. They are
wound with six layers of fine insulated No. 25 gauge wire, as shown in
the small sketch. The ends of these magnet wires are carried to the two
binding posts B and C, taken from dry-cell carbons.
[Illustration: Nails, a Screw Hook, and Similar Common Materials, were
Used in Making This Relay]
The armature D is a piece of soft iron, ¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ in., screwed to the
armature lever E, which is a ¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂-in. piece of wood. A piece
of tin is tacked to the opposite end F, and a ¹⁄₈-in. hole is bored
through the lever, 2¹⁄₂ in. from the front end. Nail a wooden block,
G, to the base, slotted to accommodate the lever, so that when the
latter is pivoted in the slot, the armature will lie directly over the
magnet heads. Fit a wooden stop, H, under the end of the lever, so that
the armature is held ¹⁄₈ in. above the magnets, by a brass spring, J,
connected to the tin, F, and the binding post, K, with copper wire.
Arrange the brass hook, L, so it comes in contact with F when the
armature bears down upon the magnets. Connect this hook to the binding
post, M. When current flows through the magnets, the armature is pulled
down and the contact of the hook, L, with the tin, F, completes a
secondary circuit.--L. R. Hardins, Harwich, Mass.
* * * * *
¶A nutcracker may be used as a substitute for a pipe wrench or
pliers, and its toothed handles grip round objects quite firmly.
A Photographic Printing Machine
BY L. B. ROBBINS
A printing machine for “gaslight” papers, to be used in localities
not equipped with gas or electricity and where printing is to be done
after daylight, is shown in the sketch. The measurements given are
only approximate, as conditions will determine its size. That shown
is made as follows: First procure a 6¹⁄₂ by 8¹⁄₂-in. or 8 by 10-in.
printing frame. Remove the brass clips from the pad and fasten one end
of the pad to the frame, by a pair of small hinges, with the glass in
the frame. Procure a box, about 12 by 15 in., by 8 in. deep, with one
side open. Cut a rectangular opening through the 12 by 15-in. side a
bit smaller than the printing frame, and secure the frame in place over
the opening with screws. Saw a slot ³⁄₄ in. wide through the top of the
box--the end nearest the hinged end of the printing frame pad--running
it the full width and about 3 in. from the front.
[Illustration: Photographic Printing may be Done Rapidly by the
Systematic Use of This Machine]
Nail cleats along the inside of each side of the box, placing them
vertical and parallel, and about ³⁄₄ in. apart, so as to form a slide
groove in conjunction with the slot. This groove is to receive a frame
or curtain constructed of stock, 2 in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. The
outside dimensions of the curtain are a trifle smaller than the inside
measurements of the box itself. Cover the frame with orange paper, and
when finished insert it through the slot in the top of the box. Build a
frame as indicated, on the outside of the box. Along the inside of the
uprights fasten cleats, thick enough to come flush with the ends of the
slot. These serve to steady the curtain when raised. Make a suitable
baseboard and secure the box to it. Then with sheet tin construct a
lamp house extending from the back of the box and of sufficient size
to accommodate a round-wick lamp. Leave an opening in the top to admit
the chimney, provide holes for ventilation, and a door by which the
lamp may be adjusted. When completed, paint the interior of the box
and lamp house white, to intensify the printing quality of the light.
Tie a piece of stout cord to a screw eye inserted in the upper end of
the sliding curtain, lead it through two pulleys fastened as shown,
and down to the hand lever. The latter is pivoted at the rear end by
a bolt. Attach a spring to the lower end of the hinged pad on the
printing frame. This holds the pad out of the way when not in use. A
curtain-roller spring is suitable for this purpose.
To operate the machine, place the negative and paper in position, and,
with the left hand, bring the pad down. Pull down the hand lever with
the right hand, raising the orange curtain. When the required exposure
is made, release the lever, shutting off the direct light. While nearly
all light is shut out by means of the lamp house, the paper may be
handled safely and easily by means of that admitted through the orange
curtain. By systematic arrangement and handling of materials, it is
surprising what an amount of work can be turned out by the aid of this
machine, especially if one person attends to the exposing and another
to the developing.
A Small Variable Condenser
[Illustration: Diagram for a Small Variable Condenser]
The condenser shown in the diagram combines the large capacity of a
fixed condenser with the gradual capacity variation of a variable one.
It is suitable for a wireless receiving circuit, or to shunt around the
vibrator of an induction coil, by making the units considerably larger.
It is made up of several fixed condensers, connected in parallel, a
lever being the means whereby the capacity is varied. Five or more
units may be used, each being a small condenser, built up of 10 sheets
of waxed paper and nine sheets of tin foil. A convenient size for the
tin foil is 6 by 4 in., and for the paper, 5¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂ in. The latter
should be a good grade of very thin linen paper and should be carefully
prepared by dipping it in hot paraffin. The sheets of tin foil and
paper in each unit are piled up alternately, allowing about ¹⁄₂ in. on
each tin-foil strip to project beyond the paper for making connections.
The pile is covered with heavy paper, and a heated flatiron is passed
on the top of each unit until the paraffin begins to melt. Upon
cooling, the units are compact.
The connections necessary are shown in the diagram. The condenser units
C, D, E, F, G, each have one side connected to a common terminal A. The
other sides of the condensers are connected to the copper strips H, J,
K, L, M. They are ¹⁄₂ in. wide and ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick. A copper lever, ¹⁄₈
by ¹⁄₂ by 8 in., is pivoted on one end so that it will connect two or
more of the condensers in parallel. The pivoted end is connected to the
terminal B. The dotted line shows different positions of the lever. The
apparatus is mounted in a wooden box.--Peter J. M. Clute, Schenectady,
N. Y.
Lighting a Candle without Touching the Wick
A candle may be lighted without the match flame touching the wick, as
follows: Light the candle, let it burn a bit; then blow it out. A small
column of smoke will rise from the wick. Touch the match flame to this,
a little above the wick, and it will ignite, travel down, and relight
the wick from the burning oil gas.
Emergency Lifting Device of Rope and Lever
[Illustration]
When block and tackle, chain hoists, or similar equipment are not
at hand, the simple arrangement shown in the sketch is useful for
lifting heavy loads. Make the lever A of a piece of 2 by 4-in. stuff,
and cut notches into it for the ropes, as indicated. From a suitable
support, B, fix the ropes C and D to the lever A at the proper notches,
permitting the ends C-1 and D-1 to be drawn down and fastened to the
floor or other support as required in raising the load. Fix the rope
E to the load W, and suspend it from the lever A at the proper notch
by means of a loop, E-1. To raise the load, bear down on the end of
the lever when it is in its original position A-1, bringing it to the
position A-2. This will bring the lower rope to position E-2. Draw up
the slack in rope D, to bring the loop to position D-2, and fasten it.
Then lift the lever A from its position A-2, to the position A-3, and
draw up the slack in rope C to bring the loop up to position C-2. The
lower rope will be brought to position E-3. By repeating this process,
the load may be raised gradually. The ropes may, of course, be of
various lengths within the range of the support and the operators.
Mucilage Brush and Container Made of a Test Tube
[Illustration]
An ordinary test tube, about ⁵⁄₈ by 6 in. in size, may be made into
a mucilage container and brush that economizes the material and does
not get the fingers sticky. The end of the tube is covered with a
piece of soft cloth after the tube is filled, as shown in the sketch.
A convenient way to care for the device is to keep it in a small
tumbler.--A. H. Carrington, Trenton, N. J.
Holder for Household Ice Pick
An ice pick is often a source of danger, if left lying about the home,
and should be kept at a place convenient to the ice box, where it will
not be likely to cause injury. The small bracket on which the ends of
the roller curtain are supported is a satisfactory holder for the pick.
It may be fastened to the wall with nails, or screws, so that the pick
may be suspended in the center hole.--Robert J. Donnelly, Cincinnati,
Ohio.
Swing Made of Hickory Sapling
[Illustration]
A swing, so durable that it has become a virtual landmark, was made
from a long, straight hickory sapling suspended from the limb of
a tree. The sapling was split part of its length, as shown in the
illustration, and a bolt put through it to prevent the upper portion
from cracking. The lower end was smoothed off, so as not to injure the
hands, and mortised through a slab of wood, as shown in the detailed
sketch. A safe hook from which to suspend the swing is suggested. It
is made from a bolt fixed through the limb and curled at the hook end
so that the swing may be taken down in bad weather.--Hubert Kann,
Pittsburgh, Pa.
Match Safe of Miniature Cannon Shell
[Illustration]
The match safe shown in the sketch was made by a worker in a munitions
plant. The container was shaped like a small cannon shell and was set
into a bracket supported on a prettily grained board, stained and
varnished, and supported by a chain.--J. H. Moore, Hamilton, Can.
Washing Bromide Enlargements
[Illustration: The Cork Clips Hold the Bromide Print in the Water in a
Vertical Position]
The difficulty of washing bromide enlargements of the larger sizes
has always made the amateur hesitate to undertake much of this kind
of work. The developing and fixing can be done with comparative ease,
because of the facility with which the print can be kept moving in a
tray that is smaller in size than the print itself, but washing is such
a long process that one’s patience is exhausted before the hypo is
completely eliminated. Continuous handling of a print for 30 minutes is
tedious work. This objection can be overcome in the simplest and most
efficacious manner, as follows:
Procure some large corks of the best quality and in each cut a groove
completely around it, near one end, to serve as a retainer for a
rubber band; then cut the cork lengthwise through the center, and cut
a wedge-shaped piece from the center toward the end opposite the one
where the groove was cut for the rubber band. After placing a band in
the groove of the proper size the combination will work similarly to an
old-fashioned spring clothespin.
If two of these are snapped on the edge of a bromide print, this can
be dropped into a bathtub or laundry tub for washing. The corks will
cause the print to float vertically in the running water. By this
means a number of prints can be washed at a time without any danger
of their sticking together or becoming wrinkled or cracked in the
bath.--Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago.
Bench Support for a Miter Box
To make the most effective use of a miter box, it must be fastened
solidly to a base, but if fastened to the workbench top it is in the
way when not in use, and it is a nuisance to fasten and unfasten the
box every time it is used. To avoid the changing, I mounted the miter
box on two pieces of 1 by 3-in. stock, about 2 ft. long. These pieces
were placed on the bench top, at right angles to the front edge and
with their centers as far apart as the two pairs of legs on the box.
The box was placed on the front end of the pieces, with the back
parallel to the front of the bench, at right angles to the pieces,
and was fastened to them with screws. The other end of each piece was
fastened to the bench top with a hinge.
This fastened the miter box firmly to the bench top, but in such a way
that I could tip it up and back against the wall, or other support,
where it was out of the way but ready for use immediately. To stiffen
the frame, I placed a cross brace between the two pieces, making it
in the form of the letter H.--Contributed by L. C. Burke, Madison,
Wisconsin.
A Blowpipe for Gas
[Illustration: Blowpipe Connection to the Ordinary Illuminating-Gas
Main for Hard and Soft Soldering]
Every experimenter who has a gas connection within convenient distance
of the workbench should provide a 4 or 5-ft. length of ¹⁄₄-in. rubber
tubing, terminating in a brass tube through which air may be blown
in order that a clear blue flame may be available for either hard or
soft soldering. The brass tube should be 4 or 5 in. long and fitted
at one end with a removable nozzle having a ¹⁄₁₆-in. hole in it. A
hole is then drilled in the side and a piece of smaller brass tubing,
bent as shown in the sketch, is soldered in place for the air supply.
A piece of soft-rubber tubing about 1 ft. long is then provided and
one end slipped over the projecting end of the air pipe and the other
fitted to a hard-rubber, or amber, mouthpiece. By regulating the gas
supply and blowing to the proper degree, a pencil of blue flame may be
produced, anywhere from 1 to 4 in. long. For heating large surfaces,
the nozzle tip should be removed.
This method of soldering not only makes a better connection than the
usual copper, but is instantly available and does not disarrange the
several pieces where, as is often the case, it is not practicable to
pin or hold them in place.
Scraper for Dishes
[Illustration: A Dish Scraper Made of a Piece of Rubber Inserted in a
Wood Handle]
Housekeepers will find the scraper shown to be silent and more rapid
than a knife for cleaning dishes. It consists of a handle cut from a
piece of straight-grained wood, with a kerf sawed in the wide end to
a depth of ³⁄₄ in., into which a piece of sheet rubber is inserted.
The rubber may be cut from an old bicycle-tire casing and is fastened
with two or three brads driven through the handle. The ends of the
brads are bent over or riveted. The edge of the rubber should be made
straight.--Contributed by H. S. Craig, Rushford, Minn.
Protecting Lights in a Gymnasium
A public-school auditorium was used for playing basket ball, and the
lights were protected as shown. Wire waste-baskets were fastened to
pieces of board, which in turn were nailed to the ceiling around
each lamp. As it was desired to provide a way to ventilate the room,
an opening was cut in each board around the lamp base, providing
fan-shaped cut-outs covered with galvanized metal of the same design,
to make a way to open and shut the ventilator. The air passed up into
an attic.
[Illustration: Wire Wastebasket Fastened around a Light to Protect It
for Basket-Ball Games]
The goals, which were old blackboards, were fastened between the posts
that supported the ceiling. Two iron rods, one above the other, were
clamped with bolts to the posts, and the boards were bolted to the
rods.--Contributed by Frank C. Svacha, McKees Rocks, Pa.
Shortening a Pasteboard Box
[Illustration: Shortening a Box by Bending Up the Bottom after Removing
the End and Cutting Down the Sides]
If a pasteboard box happens to be too long for a special purpose it can
be shortened as shown. The sides are cut down to the bottom and the end
removed. The bottom is then bent up on a line between the places where
the sides were cut down, to form a new end for the box. The joining
parts are then held with a thread or wire fasteners.
Repairing Shade-Roller Springs
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
Fix the Loosened Spring into Place and the Roller Is in Working Order]
Springs of window-shade rollers, which usually break at the tin cap by
which they are fastened inside the rod, can be quickly repaired in the
following manner:
Remove the ferrule and dogs from the end of the roller and pull out the
stick to which the spring is attached. Measure the length of the stick
A, Fig. 1, on the roller, and at C cut a small square hole through to
the hollow center. Remove the metal cap thus exposed. Fix the cap on
the end of the stick at B and fasten the spring around one point of the
metal cap, Fig. 2. Insert the stick into the roller and tap it gently,
driving the cap points in; then replace the ferrule and dogs, and the
roller is in condition for use.
Drying Photo Films Rapidly
[Illustration: The Current of the Fan Dries the Films Rapidly]
Waiting for photographic films to dry is often tedious, particularly
when the photographer is in haste to see the results of his efforts at
picture taking. The method of drying the films shown in the sketch will
aid materially in the process. The films are held by small spring clips
attached to the wire frame surrounding the fan, and when the current is
turned on, the films are blown away from the fan and held suspended in
a diagonal position.--Contributed by W. J. Clausius, Chicago, Ill.
Applying and Drying Bronze Powders
Surfaces may be coated readily with bronze powder by applying a thin
coat of shellac and quickly dusting the powder over it. Speed is
important in dusting on the powder, as if the shellac hardens it will
not hold the bronze. Surfaces which have been bronzed in this way may
be polished if additional coats of shellac or varnish are applied over
them.
Forceps for Weeding Garden
[Illustration]
Difficulty in removing small weeds around plants in the garden may be
overcome by the use of a forceps made of a piece of wire, as shown
in the illustration. The wire is formed into two loops by which the
weeds are grasped, and the portion held in the hand is bent to form a
circular spring. Its tension may be regulated so that the hand will
not be tired in using the device.--Contributed by Irving McEwen, New
Westminster, B. C., Canada.
Shielding Pictures from Damp Walls
Injury to pictures from dampness of walls may be prevented by fixing
small disks of cork to the lower edge of the frame so as to form a
contact with the wall only at the cork. This permits a current of air
to pass between the wall and frame.
[Illustration]
New Method of Developing Roll Films
BY T. B. LAMBERT
Many devices have been made for developing and fixing roll films.
There is the simple wholesale method of the professional who hangs
a weight on one end of the film and lets it down in a deep tank of
developing fluid where it hangs submerged from an upper support until
the development is complete. Then the support, the film, and attached
weight are removed, dipped into a similar tank of running water, then
to another tank of fixing solution, and subsequently washed and dried.
This is the only practical plan where there are many such films to be
handled simultaneously, but the amateur who has only one or two rolls
a week cannot afford the tanks, the space, nor the expense incident
to such a method. The film is usually drawn back and forth through a
developing solution placed in a tray, and after the development has
proceeded far enough, the same process used in washing, then the hypo
solution, and finally through the last washing for about 20 minutes,
all making a tedious process.
Some amateurs and a few professionals who but occasionally develop roll
film use a mechanical device that rolls the film into a light-proof
package which is inserted in a metal tank for development and
subsequent fixation. This is a standard process, the apparatus being on
sale at all supply houses, but it has its drawbacks.
[Illustration: An Ordinary Drinking Glass Used for Developing Roll
Films]
The following method is not only simple but perfect in its operation
and requires no special apparatus, only a tumbler or lemonade glass,
and an ordinary lead pencil for its operation. A glass rod is
preferable to the lead pencil, and it is also convenient to have a deep
tin cup, or similar device, to cover up the lemonade glass and make it
light-proof, should it be desirable to turn on the white light in the
dark room.
Pour enough developing solution into the glass tumbler to cover
completely the roll of film when it is standing on end. In the dark
room open the film roll, remove the backing paper and the paper
ends on the film, run it through clear water until it is thoroughly
and uniformly wetted from end to end, and drop it endwise into the
tumbler of developer. Immediately insert the pencil or glass rod into
the center of the roll, and with a rather quick circular motion,
move the rod around so that it will quickly pass between the several
convolutions of the film and thus distribute the developer all over its
surface. Repeat this operation at once, then again in a few seconds,
then in 15 or 20 seconds, then in 30 seconds, then in 1 minute, and so
on, with greater intervals of time. If a 20-minute developer is used,
it will only be necessary, at the latter part of the development, to
separate the layers every 2 or 3 minutes.
When the development is complete, pour off the solution and rinse in
the same glass by letting water run through it while passing the pencil
or glass rod between the layers several times. The water may then be
drained off, and the glass filled with the fixing solution. While the
film is fixing, the glass rod should be passed between the layers
several times to renew the solution in contact with the film.
It will be seen that at no time after the first washing is it necessary
to handle the film, so that damage to the film and staining the fingers
are entirely eliminated. Further than that, no apparatus is tied up
in the operation, and if a light-proof cup is at hand, the developing
tumbler may be covered between the operations of separating the layers
of film, and the white light of the dark room can be turned on for
further operations.
Swinging Bags on the Arms of a Scarecrow
[Illustration: Scarecrow with Swinging Paper Bags on the Arms in the
Place of Hands]
The ordinary ragman used as a scarecrow can be made more effective by
adding to it something to make it move, or some part that flutters in
the wind. This can be accomplished in one way by blowing up paper bags
to expand them to their full extent, tying the openings as if they were
filled with some commodity for the household, and fastening them to the
arms of the dummy as shown. These will swing and flutter about in a
way that will materially aid in scaring away the birds that damage the
crops.
An Artistic Card Tray
Serving and card trays can be made very beautiful and artistic with the
use of butterflies, natural grasses, and the fluffy part taken from the
milkweed pod, formed to make a natural scene beneath the glass bottom
of the tray. If an old tray is to be used, remove the old panel, or
painting, beneath the glass bottom, and clean the glass thoroughly. Lay
it upside down on a flat table top and carefully place on it a cluster
of grass, or weeds, or some botanical specimens, that are well dried.
Arrange the dried butterflies in a natural way around the grasses with
their backs, or tops of the wings, facing out, or on the glass.
The silky down of the milkweed seed, with the seed removed, is used to
cover the specimens and grass, which forms the most delicate background
possible. It is laid on quite thick at the bottom of the scene,
gradually thinning it toward the top. Be careful to see that the fibers
of the down are placed so that they will radiate from the bottom of the
grasses to the outer edges. A piece of white, pearl, or gray cardboard
is then placed on this background, and another glass or board back is
sealed tightly over the whole with glue or wax.--Contributed by Joe V.
Romig, Allentown, Pa.
Deodorizing Lard Buckets
Lard buckets are the most easily obtained and the most satisfactory of
utensils in which to pack food, or cook for a small picnic or camping
party, but it is very difficult to remove the odor of the lard. This
may be easily accomplished by boiling the grounds from the coffeepot in
the bucket with about one pint of water.
[Illustration]
A Parlor Cue Alley
BY C. QUINCY IVES
Parlor cue alley is really a game of bowling except that it is played
on a small raised board, and, instead of throwing the balls by hand,
an ordinary billiard cue is used, the balls being about 1¹⁄₄ in.
in diameter. The automatic feature of this new game saves the time
usually required to set up the pins, and assures that they will be set
absolutely true each time.
[Illustration: A Cue is Used to Shoot the Ball on This Alley]
[Illustration: The Alley Board with Its Attachments]
To build this alley, first procure three planed boards, hard wood
preferred, though they are more difficult to work; two, 10 ft. long, 9
in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and the other, 10 ft. long, 15 in. wide,
and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. Place the first two boards side by side and fasten
them with cleats, the first cleat being placed 18 in. from the end to
be used for the pins. The cleats should be of ³⁄₈ or ⁷⁄₈-in. material
and cut as long as the upper board is wide, or 15 in. These are placed
on top of the lower boards, or between the two. By placing the first
one 18 in. from the end, clearance is obtained for the trap A. The
other board is placed on the cleats and fastened, after it has been
centrally located, with screws from the under side. The screws must not
come through or the surface of the upper board be marred in any way so
that the balls cannot roll freely. The difference in width of the lower
board and the upper one provides 1¹⁄₂-in. clearance on each side as
grooves for the return of the balls.
Inclose the alley with boards, 3 in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, to the
point B, and from there around the pin end with boards, 6 in. wide.
The upper board should be cut to such a length that a space of 2 in.
at the end C will be provided. Into this space is fitted a block of
wood, about ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, having its upper surface slightly pitched
toward the sides of the alley to start the balls back to the front of
the board. From the ends of this block two strips, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, are
fitted into the side grooves, from D to E, on an incline, to return the
ball after each shot.
The location of each pin is marked on the end of the upper board, and
small holes are drilled just large enough to admit pieces of stout
cord, like a fishline, to pass through freely. The pins are made of
hard wood, carefully balanced, so that one end will not be heavier than
the other. The lower end of each pin is drilled to make a recess, F,
in which the cord is fastened with a screw or nail. Holes are bored
through the bottom board, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter, to correspond to the 10
small holes made through the upper one. Lead weights of about 2 oz. are
fitted in the holes and attached to the strings from the pins. The ends
of the weights should extend about ¹⁄₂ in. from the under side of the
alley.
Attach a board, 18 in. square, with hinges to the end of the alley
so that it will hang under the weights. A stout cord is run along
the under side of the alley to the front end through screw eyes, and
attached to the swinging board. By letting the board swing down the
weights are released and they draw the pins into a standing position,
accurately set for the next break. When set, the line is drawn, and the
swinging board pushes the weights up and releases the pins.
The balls used are made of hard wood, and, if it is not desirable to
make them, they can be purchased from a toy store. They are 1¹⁄₄ in. in
diameter. Each player has three shots. The ball is placed on the spot
G and shot with a billiard cue, the object being to knock down as many
pins as possible; the score is kept as in bowling.
Horses can be made of metal and wood, as shown, for holding the alley
at the proper height. The alley can be used on a large table, but
horses are more convenient.
The Glass-and-Hat Trick
The effect of this trick is as follows: The performer first exhibits a
small table, about 2 ft. square, the top of which is covered with black
velvet. He requests the loan of a Derby hat and a handkerchief, then
takes an ordinary glass, filled with water, and places it on the table
top, covers it with the handkerchief, and sets the hat on top of the
glass. He then withdraws a short distance, and at a command, the glass
appears to pass slowly through both handkerchief and hat until the hat
rests on the table top. The hat is then taken up and is handed to the
owner, who finds the glass of water in the hat.
While this is seemingly impossible, the effect can be easily
accomplished and the necessary apparatus can be made up cheaply if a
table of suitable size can be had, although a kitchen table may be used
if so desired, but a table about 2 ft. square is preferred, because
it can be easily carried. The table is prepared as follows: Procure a
block of wood, about 2 in. square and 1¹⁄₂ in. thick, and glue it to
the under side of the table in the center. Bore a ¹⁄₄-in. hole through
both the table top and the block of wood. The top of the table must be
covered with some black cloth, such as velvet. Using the hole bored
as a center, cut out a piece of the table top to correspond with the
diameter of the glass to be used, and about ¹⁄₈ in. deep, fit into this
depression a piece of round sheet brass. Procure a ¹⁄₄-in. rod, about 6
in. long, and fasten the brass disk to the end of it so that the disk
will fit into the round depression when the rod is run through the
hole in the table top and block. The other, or lower, end of the rod
is filed flat, and a small hole is drilled through it, the edges being
smoothed to receive a thread. The top of the brass disk is covered with
the same material as is used for covering the table top. This will
make it appear to be one piece covering the table top. Fasten a strong
black thread to one corner of the table top on the under side, and run
it through the hole drilled through the end of the rod, then over a
small window-curtain roller fastened into the opposite corner of the
table top, where the thread is run down a table leg and through another
pulley out under a rug or the floor to an assistant where the thread
will not be seen. The metal disk can then be controlled without any
apparent power. If the rod extends under the table too far, tape some
velvet or fancy cloth around the table edge to cover it.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: Apparently the Glass Filled with Water Passes Up through
the Crown of the Hat and is Taken from it When the Trick is Completed]
To begin the trick, the performer exhibits the glass of water, then
sets it on the table just back of the disk, and in placing the borrowed
handkerchief it is put on the disk rather than the glass. As the
handkerchief is held in front of the glass the assistant pulls the disk
up; thus the handkerchief is placed on the disk and the glass of water
is left uncovered just behind it. The performer then starts to put the
borrowed hat on the glass, crown up, and when, seeing his mistake, he
apologizes, turns the hat over, and in doing so picks up the glass of
water and places it in the hat. The hat is then set on the disk with
the crown down. In turning the hat the glass is taken up with the first
two fingers of the right hand. When the hat is raised, the glass is
also raised with it, and while doing this the hat is slanted so as to
hide the glass. In turning the hat over, the glass is brought into it.
This is quite hard to explain, but a little practice will enable the
performer to make no mistake. When the hat is placed on the disk the
assistant slowly lets the disk down. It is very necessary to let the
hat down slowly, as a sudden jerk is apt to tumble the hat over and
spoil it as well as the trick. When the hat comes to rest on the table
top, it is removed and handed to the owner with the glass of water in
it.
Wire-Mesh Support for Flower Centerpiece
[Illustration]
Pansies, violets, or other short-stemmed flowers cannot easily be
shown to advantage in a table centerpiece unless properly supported.
By placing a frame of wire mesh in the dish, as shown in the sketch,
the stems of the flowers may be set in the openings, giving a neat and
effective display.--Victor Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.
False Bottom for Emptying Wastebasket
[Illustration]
In order to avoid handling paper and other material which sometimes
sticks in a wastebasket, I arranged a false bottom in the receptacle,
as shown in the sketch. A hole was cut in the bottom of the basket and
a square board, nearly as large as the bottom, was fitted over it, and
a leather handle provided. The basket may be emptied quickly by forcing
out the false bottom, without the hands touching the contents.--Harold
Laughlin, Reading, Michigan.
Making Use of Refrigerator in Winter
[Illustration]
By fitting a 3-in. pipe into the lower part of a refrigerator so that a
draft of cool air from outdoors is available in cold weather, it may be
used without ice for a considerable part of the year. The top is left
open slightly, and a piece of cheesecloth is tied over the outside end
of the pipe, to prevent dust from entering. A tin shutter is placed
on the inside of the refrigerator to close the pipe in extremely cold
weather. This arrangement has proved quite satisfactory for the winter
storage of food.--R. R. Dowsley, Prescott, Canada.
Inkwell Base Made from Fuse Socket
[Illustration]
Workers in the munitions industry frequently devise small useful or
ornamental objects in imitation of, or from, discarded parts on which
they work. The inkwell shown in the sketch was made from a rejected
fuse socket of a shrapnel shell. It was fitted with a glass container
and fastened into a wooden base.
Valve-Bottom Pail for Dipping Water
[Illustration]
An ordinary pail may be converted into a convenient device for dipping
water by fitting a valve into the bottom, as shown in the sketch.
Fasten a piece of soft leather to the bottom of a block, 3 in. square,
and fix this to the bottom of the bucket by means of a small hinge.
By pushing the bucket bottom down into the water, the latter rises
up through the valve until the bucket is full. By lifting it the
valve is closed. This device fitted to a tall milk pail is especially
convenient.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.
A Shoe-Polishing Strop
It is awkward to shine one’s shoes with a long strip of cloth as is
done by a shoe shiner to produce a high polish. An effective substitute
method is to suspend from the wall a strip of cloth, about 5 in. wide,
doubled to a length of 30 in., and rub the shoes on it before putting
them on.
A Magic Cabinet
The performer calls the attention of his audience to a cabinet mounted
on short legs and having doors in the front, back, and top. The back
door is opened, then the top and front, and an arm is thrust through
to show that the cabinet is empty and without double doors or double
walls. The performer also puts his wand beneath the box to show that
there is no deception there. The doors are then closed, except the
top, and reaching down, he takes out any number of articles, from
handkerchiefs to rabbits, and then the front door is opened to show the
box is empty, but upon closing the front door again, he is still able
to produce articles until the supply is exhausted. Wonderful though
this trick may appear, it is very simple, and if a person is handy with
tools, it can be made from lumber taken from a packing box.
To make the cabinet, nail together, in the shape of a rectangle, two
pieces, 16 in. long, 14 in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and two pieces 14
in. square and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. To one of the latter pieces fasten four
legs, one at each corner. In the opposite piece, or the top, make an
opening in the center, 8 in. square. This opening is covered with a
door 8¹⁄₂ in. square, supplied with a knob to open it easily. A piece,
16 in. long and 14 in. wide, with an attached knob, is hinged to the
front, for a door; also another for the back hinged in the same manner
and with a knob. In the back there is a cutout made, 9 in. long and 7
in. wide, in the center. In this opening a swinging box is hung to hold
the articles taken from the cabinet. The swinging box is made of two
pieces, 9 in. long and 7 in. wide, and two pieces about ¹⁄₂ in. larger
each way, nailed together on ends, cut triangular. This box is hinged
in the opening so that it will swing in or out as desired and show a
panel on either side of the door. The front door should have a panel
nailed on each side of equal size, to make both doors appear alike.
After loading all the things desired to be shown in the triangular box,
start the trick by pushing this box into the cabinet and showing the
outside; then open the back, and in doing so, push the triangular box
out as the door swings back and away from the audience. This shows that
there is nothing to be seen but the panel. Open the front door and top,
and the cabinet will appear empty. Close both front and back doors, and
in making this change, push the triangular box in, and begin to take
the things out through the top door.
[Illustration: Open the Front Door and Top of the Cabinet and It will
Appear Empty]
By careful construction the cabinet can be made so that the doors will
open freely and the triangular box swing easily so that it will not be
seen in operating it. With a clever performer this trick is without an
equal, as many variations can be made in the performance.
Countersinking a Hole Smoothly
When a hole in a piece of steel, iron, or brass is being countersunk,
the drill usually chatters, making the countersink rough. Where a
smooth hole is required, it is best to make the countersink first
and drill the hole afterward. By doing so the hole will be perfectly
smooth.--Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.
Receptacle for Shellac Varnish
[Illustration]
A simple, inexpensive, and practical pot and cover for holding shellac
varnish in the pattern shop, or at home, is shown in the sketch. It
consists of a base made of wood having in the center a counterbore into
which a glass tumbler, or other container, is fitted. For the cover
an ordinary flowerpot is used, fitting down over a ring on the base.
An accumulation of shellac around the top cannot come in contact with
the cover. The brush extends through the hole in the bottom of the
flowerpot and is held suspended by means of a leather washer resting on
it.--Contributed by J. D. Roberts, Kenosha, Wisconsin.
Homemade Vaporizer
[Illustration]
A simple vaporizer which can be used by designers to project their
colors in a fluid spray, or by housekeepers to disinfect or perfume
their apartments, can be made in the following manner: Two goose quills
are forced through holes in a cork at right angles to each other, as
shown. Place the vertical quill in a bottle containing the fluid to be
sprayed and by blowing through the horizontal quill a very effective
spray will be produced.--Contributed by Hazel Kolar, Maywood, Ill.
* * * * *
¶Old wringer clamps, used for holding the wringer to the tub, are
very handy around a workbench.
Tooth Powder Used on Tracing Cloth
Tooth powder is an excellent substitute for the powders which are sold
for the purpose of preparing the glossy surface of tracing linen to
receive ink. The gritty element removes the excess gloss which prevents
the ink from taking hold. A second dusting with talcum powder makes a
perfect surface for inking in.
A Small Gas Furnace
[Illustration]
A small gas furnace for melting small quantities of gold, silver, or
other metals, can be easily made as follows: Procure a cylinder of
stovepipe iron of the desired size, say 4¹⁄₂ or 5 in. in diameter, and
6 in. long. Turn in the edge of one end so that it will hold loosely a
disk of iron of the same thickness as the cylinder, to form the bottom.
Punch ¹⁄₈-in. holes, about 1 in. apart, all over the cylinder and the
bottom. This is to allow for the escape of moisture and air. Attach
three legs to the sides with rivets, evenly spaced so as to raise
the bottom 4 in. In the side of the cylinder cut a hole, 1¹⁄₄ in. in
diameter, its center being 1¹⁄₂ in. from the bottom. Select a glass
bottle whose diameter is 1 or 1¹⁄₂ in. less than that of the cylinder.
Make a putty of fire clay, and add about five per cent of plaster of
Paris, and also add about a teaspoonful of vinegar, to prevent a too
rapid setting. Place a mass of the putty in the bottom of the cylinder
and press in the bottle after its surfaces have been well greased.
The bottle should be well centered in the cylinder. Press the bottle
well down, so that its bottom is on a level with the lower edge of the
hole in the side. Fill in the putty to form the sides, tamping it
well all around the bottle, and build it up a little above the metal
of the sides, carefully smoothing off the edge. With the fingers, or a
spatula of some kind, cut out the putty in the hole to form an opening,
³⁄₄ in. in diameter. Allow the putty to set for more than an hour, and
then with a circular, or twisting, motion remove the bottle. To prevent
a vacuum in the bottom that will prevent removing the bottle easily,
puncture the putty that lies on the disk with a hatpin, to allow the
air to pass.
A few places will be found where the putty has not filled in properly,
and these should be patched up while the filling is yet soft. The clay
will probably shrink after standing for a time, and should be pressed
out against the sides while in a plastic state. When dry, the furnace
is ready for use.
In furnaces of this kind the jet of a large gas blowtorch is to be
used. If a standard is rigged up to hold the blowtorch, it will be much
easier for the operator. The jet from the pipe is thrown in the hole at
the side and a crucible is placed in the furnace. It is well to make a
cover similar to the body of the furnace with a hole in the center a
little larger than the hole in the side.
A more efficient furnace can be made with two holes in the
side, opposite each other, for using a double jet from
blowtorches.--Contributed by James H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.
The Magic Clock Hand
The hand, or pointer, is the only working part needed to perform the
trick. A clockface can be drawn on any piece of white paper, and a pin
stuck in its center on which the hand revolves. The hand A is cut from
a piece of sheet brass, and may be in any form or design desired, but
it must balance perfectly on the axle, which passes through a ¹⁄₄-in.
hole in the center, or else the magic part will fail. The illustration
shows a good design with dimensions that will cause it to balance well;
however, this can be adjusted by removing some metal from the end that
is heavier with a file or tinner’s snips, or a bit of solder may be
stuck to the lighter end.
[Illustration: Design of a Hand That will Balance Well and the Parts
for Its Axle]
A disk, B, is cut from a piece of sheet brass, 1¹⁄₈ in. in diameter,
twelve ³⁄₃₂-in. holes are drilled at equal distance apart near the
edge, and a ¹⁄₄-in. hole is drilled in its center. This disk is
soldered to the hand where both ¹⁄₄-in. holes will coincide. It is
necessary to procure two washers, C and D, that are embossed, or
raised, in the center, and about 1¹⁄₄ in. in diameter. These can be
purchased from a dealer in curtain rods, the rod parts wanted being
the washers used on the ends. A careful mechanic can raise the center
portion of a brass disk by beating it over a hole with a ball-peen
hammer.
One of the washers, C, has a spring, E, soldered at one end, and the
other carries a small projection that will engage the holes in the
disk, B. The projection can be made by driving the metal out with a
center punch, set on the opposite side.
The washer D is provided with a lead weight, F, and a ¹⁄₄-in. stud, G,
is soldered in the center. The stud has a ¹⁄₁₆-in. hole drilled through
its center for the pin axle. The weight is made by filling the washer
with melted lead, which when cold is removed and sawn in two. One piece
is then stuck in the washer with shellac. The stud is ⁷⁄₈ in. long
with the upper part, about ¹⁄₄ in. in length, filed, or turned down,
smaller, and threaded. Just below the thread, or on the shoulder, the
body is filed square to fit a square hole filed in the face washer C
carrying the spring. This square hole and stud end are necessary in
order that both washers may turn together.
[Illustration: A Number is Mentioned and the Performer Gives the
Washers a Twist to Set the Concealed Weight so That the Hand When Hung
on the Dial will be Drawn to Point Out the Number Selected]
The dial can be made of a piece of thick cardboard, or thin wood, with
the numbers from 1 to 12 painted on, like a clockface. A pin, ¹⁄₁₆ in.
in diameter, or an ordinary large pin, is run through the center so
that it will project on the face side on which the hand is to revolve.
The washer D with the weight is placed on the rear side of the hand
with the fixed stud run through the hole in the center of the hand;
then the washer C is placed on the square part of the stud, and the nut
J, which should have a round, knurled edge, is turned on the threads.
This will cause the projection on the spring E to engage one of the
small holes on the disk B. In turning the two washers, C and D, with
the thumb and first finger of the right hand, the projection snapping
into the holes of the disk B can be felt. The hand is placed on the pin
of the clockface, and the washers are turned so that the weight will
make it point to 12. Scratch a mark on the hand at H, also mark a line
on the front washer at this point. These lines are necessary, as they
enable the performer to know how many holes to snap the spring over to
have the hand point at any desired number.
By reversing the hand it will point to a different number; for
instance, if set for 8 and put on the pin backward, it will point to 4,
and so on, with other settings. The dial can be held in the hand, hung
on a stand, or fastened to a wall, and can be used to tell the day of
the week, time of day, cards selected, etc. The audience can call for
any number on the clockface, and the setting of the disks is an easy
matter while holding the hand, or pointer, in the hands, so that it
cannot be detected.
Uses for Steel Wool
The use of steel wool in place of sandpaper when finishing off new or
old work, when preparing it for varnishing or other finishes, will be
found very helpful. It is put up in small packages and can be obtained
in several grades of fineness. It is especially useful when removing
old finishes, in and around moldings, etc., since it conforms to
irregular shapes as sandpaper will not. Put on a pair of heavy canvas
gloves when using steel wool. They will keep the fine slivers out of
the skin. These gloves will also be found useful when varnishing and
painting.
Turning Long Wood Rods
To turn a long wood rod of small diameter is not an easy job for
the amateur, and a suitable tool for the purpose is seldom found in
the amateur’s outfit. The tool illustrated can be easily made from
materials that are always at hand. A block of hard wood, A, is first
provided, and a hole, B, large enough to admit the square strip from
which the rod is to be turned, is bored in the end, whereupon the hole
C, which has the diameter of the finished rod, is bored through the
block. The hole D is next bored at right angles to the axis of the hole
C, and so placed that its edge just touches the outer edge of the hole
C. This hole is to receive an ordinary gouge, and must be of such size
as to receive the gouge snugly.
[Illustration: A Block of Wood Fashioned to Hold an Ordinary Gouge for
Turning Small Wood Rods]
The gouge is ground back far enough on the under side to make the
cutting edge level with its back, and then beveled off on the inside to
a sharp edge. The gouge E is placed in the hole D with the cutting edge
on the center line, as shown, and held in place with a wood plug, F. A
little soap applied to the bore C will prevent binding.
To use the tool, a strip of wood is pointed sufficiently to allow
it to enter the hole C a short distance. The strip may be rotated
by holding it in the chuck of a lathe while the tool is held in the
hand, using the handle of the gouge to prevent its turning with the
stick.--Contributed by J. A. Brearley, Washington, D. C.
Hanging Ladder for a Hatchway
[Illustration]
A handy ladder to swing from a hatchway can be made of a solid plank,
as shown. Cut the plank to the length desired and saw notches on each
side to form steps. With a solid hook to fasten it in a similar hook in
the ceiling, at the edge of the opening, it makes a novel yet practical
ladder.--Contributed by Victor Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.
An Oilcan Stopper
An empty cartridge shell makes an excellent stopper for an oilcan in
case the original stopper becomes lost. The cap in the shell is removed
and the hole enlarged with the tang of a file so that a leather thong
can be inserted. A knot is tied in the thong on both sides of the base,
to prevent the thong from slipping either way. The end of the thong is
tied to the bail of the can.
Enamel for Steel Fishing Rods
Make a thin solution of shellac in alcohol and add a teaspoonful of
Venice turpentine to each half pint, and the same quantity of lampblack
for a black enamel. Scrape the bare spots on the rod and heat it
slightly, to melt the shellac for the first coat. Use a fine brush and
apply two or three coats, which will give a smooth, glossy, and elastic
surface that will not scale or crack.
Bench Receptacles for Small Articles
When working with small, round articles, such as ball bearings, it
often happens that they roll off the bench and are lost. To remedy
this, I bored several holes, each 2 in. in diameter, in a convenient
place in the workbench top, making them about ³⁄₈ in. deep, for the
different articles. To make the small parts easily accessible the holes
were filled in with thick paste made of plaster of Paris which was
molded into a saucer shape. After the plaster became thoroughly dry the
inner surface was painted over with white enamel. This made them easily
cleaned with a damp cloth. Any article dropped into these depressions
will roll to the center, and as the sides are curved it can be easily
picked up when it is wanted.--Contributed by Frank L. Matter, Portland,
Oregon.
Ruler with Round and Flat Edges
[Illustration: The Molding Presents a Round Edge for a Pen and a Flat
One for a Pencil]
Picking up a smooth piece of ordinary wood molding, intending to use
it as a ruler, I found that its shape, A, combined the properties of
the round ruler and flat ruler, as well as assuming the third position
D. A simple reverse changes the edge from a round to a sharp or flat,
accommodating it to a pen or pencil, as shown. Such a piece of molding
can be procured from a local lumber dealer.--Contributed by James M.
Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
A Trouser Hanger
[Illustration: The Trousers can be Easily Hung on the Cross Bars to
Keep the Crease in Them]
A wood frame, similar to a picture frame, is made up and hinged to the
inner side of the closet door with its outer edge hung on two chains.
The inside of the frame is fitted with cross bars. After hanging the
trousers on the cross bars the frame is swung up against the door where
it is held with a hook. Several pairs of trousers can be hung on the
frame, and when flat against the door it takes up very little space.
The trousers are kept flat so that they will hold their crease.
An Emergency Alcohol Stove
If a person starts on a picnic with a ketchup bottle full of wood
alcohol placed in the lunch basket and suddenly discovers that the
alcohol stove was left at home, it is not necessary to walk back to get
it; just unscrew the cover of the ketchup bottle and bunch a piece of
cloth large enough to fill the top, soak it thoroughly in the alcohol
and light it. The metal top is just the right size to make a hot flame.
* * * * *
¶A box 8¹⁄₄ in. square and 4 in. deep will hold one gallon.
[Illustration]
Fireside Dissolving Views
BY SUSAN E. W. JOCELYN
To those interested in amateur theatricals the following method of
showing dissolving views in the fire-light of pipe dreams and mind
pictures will be appreciated.
A frame made of light material, A, Fig. 1, covered with red cloth and
chalked to represent brick, is placed in the center of the stage. The
central opening, representing the fireplace, must be rather large,
about 12 ft. wide and 7 ft. high, because it is at the back of this
opening that the pictures are produced. From the chimney back, 2¹⁄₂ ft.
behind this opening, the sides, B, of the fireplace slope outward to
the imitation brickwork. The walls of the fireplace are covered with
sheet asbestos, for safety, and painted black; then ashes are rubbed
on the chimney back and scattered over the hearthstone, to make the
appearance more realistic.
The chimney back is removable, in fact it is one of a series of a half
dozen screens, the others being behind it, the proper manipulation of
which, together with changing lights, gives to the audience the effect
of dissolving views of the dreams that are being acted out directly
behind the screens.
[Illustration: The Tableau is Played Out behind the Screens and is
Dimly Seen through the Fireplace Opening When the Lights are Properly
Controlled and the Screens Drawn Slowly]
The screens are carried in a light frame, the top of which is shown
in Fig. 2, with position of runs. The runs are made of narrow strips
of wood, fastened to the under side of two end pieces, for the screen
frames to slide in. Corresponding strips are placed in a suitable
position on the floor, to keep the screens steady in sliding. The
frames holding the run pieces are longer than the chimney back is wide,
and the upper one is placed as high as the brickwork, the shelf, or
mantel, over the fireplace being an extension of the upper part, or
frame. The screens are in pairs, as shown in Fig. 3, each one extending
to the center of the fireplace. They consist of light frames covered
with black mosquito netting. The upper and lower sides of the frames
are sandpapered smooth so that they will move easily in the runs. The
vertical sides of a pair of screen frames that meet in the center of
the fireplace are made of one strand of wire, instead of wood, so
that their motion will not be noticeable. To complete the apparatus,
andirons and a gas log are needed in the fireplace, and whatever
arrangements are necessary for the action of the views to be shown
behind the screens.
If gas is available, an asbestos log is used in the fireplace, and it
has a connecting pipe to the footlights, where four or five jets are
located on the floor just back of the screens. A narrow board, painted
black, is placed in front of the lights, which should be wide enough
to conceal the lights from the spectators and reflect the light on the
tableau. If the light is thrown above the imitation brickwork, then it
should be made higher.
In most halls, and some houses, electric lights are used instead of
gas, and in this case ordinary logs are piled in the fireplace on the
andirons, and one or more red globes are introduced to produce the
effect of glowing embers. The gas is more effective, however, because
it is not easy to get a gradual rise and fall in the glow of electric
lights. Four or five footlights are sufficient.
[Illustration: FIG. 2
FIG. 1
FIG. 3
Frames Made of Light Material and Covered with Black Mosquito Netting
Serve as Screens Which are Operated in Runs Located behind the
Fireplace That is Made Up in a Like Manner and Penciled to Represent
Brick]
The working of the dissolving views can be best explained by an
illustration from “Reveries of a Bachelor.” The gas log is turned
low to make the stage dimly lighted, and the tableau to be shown is
all arranged behind the chimney back and the screens. There should
be barely sufficient light to reveal the bachelor on the hearthstone
smoking in the gloaming. Then the chimney back almost imperceptibly
parts, that is, the screens of the first pair are gradually pulled
apart, the footlights and gas log are gradually turned on, and the
tableau behind the fireplace, being more brightly illuminated, is
dimly seen through the series of screens. Slowly the successive pairs
of screens are drawn aside, and the tableau becomes quite distinct.
Then the process is reversed, the screens are gradually replaced,
the lights are lowered and the dream fades away; brightens and fades
again; brightens and fades, till gone entirely. The screens are always
slowly moving while the tableau is exposed, and this makes the illusory
effect. It is evident that the success of this plan depends principally
on the coördination with which the screens are operated. “Cinderella,”
and many other tales based on the vagaries of the mind and having their
source in glowing embers, can thus be presented.
Imitation-Celluloid Scales and Name Plates
Often the amateur turns out a very workmanlike piece of apparatus,
which only lacks the addition of a scale or name plate to give it a
truly professional appearance. I recently hit upon an excellent method
of making these articles in a manner that will stand considerable wear
and at the same time present a very good appearance. Simply take a
piece of good Bristol board and letter it as desired with waterproof
drawing ink, then apply a coat of clear varnish, such as is used on
bird’s-eye maple furniture. After not less than 24 hours rub lightly
with fine steel wool, wipe clean, and revarnish. Usually two coats are
sufficient, and the last should be rubbed with a soft oily rag dipped
in some abrasive material such as tooth powder, or one of the many
powders used for metal polishing. Finally polish with a little oil, and
the result will be a perfect imitation of celluloid.--Contributed by
John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
Direct View Finder for a Box Camera
Disappointment in the taking of pictures with a small camera is often
caused by the inability of the photographer to obtain an accurate view
of what he is photographing. If, instead of the small view finder on
the camera, the device illustrated is used, a view of the resultant
photograph may be obtained, right side up, and of nearly the same size
as the finished print.
[Illustration: Sight through the Eyepiece for a Direct View of the
Object Photographed, Thus Insuring More Nearly the Accuracy of the
Result]
The distance from the lens of the camera to the front surface of the
plate or film must be determined. In the camera shown this was 4¹⁄₂
in. The distance from the small metal eyepiece, when it is in place on
the box, to the inner side of the opposite end of the box must be made
¹⁄₂ in. shorter than this measurement. This will cause the box to be
shorter than the camera.
The box is constructed so that the sides extend above the top and
engage the camera. The view-finder eyepiece is made from a flat piece
of sheet metal, laid out as shown, and bent into the desired shape.
It is fixed over the center of the end of the box. The sight hole
must be ¹⁄₃₂ in. in diameter. By sighting through the small opening
in the eyepiece an unobstructed view of the prospective photograph is
obtained.--Contributed by A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Ont.
Checking a Rip in Tire Tubes
It is often difficult to prevent a small rip in an inner tube of a
tire from becoming longer, even though a patch has been applied. An
effective remedy is to punch a small round hole at each end of the rip
before applying the patch. This stops the tendency to rip farther when
pressure is applied.--Contributed by George H. Holden, Chesterfield,
England.
Protecting Wall Back of Range or Sink
A simple and attractive protection for the wall back of the range
or sink in a kitchen was provided by fixing a piece of plate glass
to the wall by means of round-headed brass screws. The glass may
be washed easily and can be removed when new wall covering is
applied.--Contributed by Jennie E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.
Polishing with a Hand Drill
[Illustration: A Hand Drill Clamped in a Vise and Used to Polish
Round-Head Screws]
There are certain desired effects in polishing metal that can only be
obtained with a true rotary motion. There is no amount of handwork
that will produce a proper finish on the round head of a brass screw.
Therefore, when small pieces of metal are to be shaped up with the file
and polished, simply set them in a three-jaw chuck of a hand drill,
and then clamp the drill in a vise, as shown in the illustration.
Operate the drill with the left hand and hold the file, or emery paper,
with the right, and a finish will be obtained that can in nowise
be distinguished from lathe work. It is surprising how different
round-head brass screws appear when treated in this manner.
Releasing a Parachute from a Kite
[Illustration: Pull In About a Yard of the Kite String and Release It,
Tripping the Parachute]
Parachutes may be released from suspended kites readily by providing
tripping loops on the kite tail, as shown in the illustration. Form a
loop on one end of a piece of cord, and tie the other end to the kite
tail. Make a loop in one end of another piece of cord and tie the other
end to the top of the parachute. Tie a piece of cord around a nail
close to its head and fix this also to the kite tail. Pass one loop
through the other and insert the nail, as shown in the sketch. To trip
the parachute, pull in about a yard of string and release it quickly.
The parachute will trip without fail. The end of the string may be
fastened to a stake driven into the ground or it may be held in the
hand.
A Trick Blotter
An ordinary blotter may be transformed easily so that it will remove
ink completely when applied instead of leaving sufficient to recognize
the script, by steeping it in a solution of oxalic acid. Permit it to
dry after several applications of the acid. It will be the source of
much amusement, and is useful as well.
[Illustration]
Magic Candles Explained
BY CLIFFORD WAYNE
Clever and baffling though it may be, the magic-candle trick may be
performed easily and with professional skill by a person who has made a
few simple preparations. The illustration shows the candles arranged on
a table made of a music stand.
Candles, cigars, or pencils may be used, but for the purpose of this
description the former will be used. The candles are of different
colors but of the same size and weight. The manipulation is as follows:
Exhibit a tube of brass, cardboard, or other suitable material, just
large enough to contain a candle. Then retire from the room, leaving
the tube on the table while one of the spectators selects one of the
candles and places it into the tube, covering the end of the latter
securely with a small cap. The other candles are hidden before the
performer is permitted to return. The trick is to announce the color
of the candle contained in the box by merely passing the hand over it
several times. The box and candle are passed out for inspection and
will bear it if properly prepared.
The secret of the trick is this: The first candle, for example, the
white one, is unprepared. The second, a blue one, has concealed in it,
¹⁄₂ in. from the top, a small piece of magnetized steel. The third
candle, a red one, has a similar bar concealed at the middle; the
fourth, a magnetized bar ¹⁄₂ in. from the bottom, and the fifth candle
has the bar at a point halfway between the middle and the bottom. The
candles are made of wood and the magnets may readily be imbedded in
them. They are made of two pieces glued together like a pencil.
[Illustration: Mysterious Passes over the Concealed Candle are Made and
Its Color Announced]
The performer hides a small compass in his palm. It is held in place
by a wire clip, gripped between the second and third fingers near the
knuckles. A wave of the hand over the tube containing a candle will
affect the compass if any candle other than the white one is used.
Its needle will vibrate when approaching the concealed magnet, and
by determining quickly the position of the magnet, the color may be
announced.
Those who offer guesses usually insist that some electrical device is
used.
Desk Slide in Top of Drawer
Placing a lock lid in the top of a desk drawer provided a writing board
and also gave privacy to the drawer, as shown in the sketch.
[Illustration: The Lid Provides a Writing Slide and Gives Privacy to
the Drawer]
A lady’s desk in a nicely furnished room was used for the telephone
and as the desk was often locked there was no place on which to rest
the instrument or to take notes. The drawer lid, locked with a chest
lock, proved effective. The lid may be moved back so as to expose the
contents of the drawer. It was finished to match the desk.--Contributed
by Victor Labadie, Dallas, Tex.
Repairing a Broken Fly-Screen Frame
[Illustration: Sheet-Metal Braces Used on a Loose Window-Screen Frame
to Make It Rigid]
An old broken fly-screen frame was made quite rigid with the use of
metal braces, cut as shown and fastened with nails to each corner. The
brace was cut from sheet metal, and the edges A and B were cut and bent
at right angles to the main part, with their extreme edges bent over
the frame. These were sufficient to make the frame as rigid as a new
one.
Raising the Temperature of a Room
The temperature of a room may apparently be raised several degrees with
the same expenditure of heat, and greater comfort will result by the
application of a simple principle. In summer a moist day seems warmer
than a dry one though the thermometer registers the same. By permitting
steam to escape from a radiator or keeping a kettle boiling on the
stove, the air is moistened and feels warmer.
A Carbon Electric Water Heater
The water heater illustrated is for use on a 110-volt circuit without
added resistance. It consists of two electrodes which are immersed
directly in the water; and while it is not as artistic as the usual
nickelplated heater, it is usually more economical and has the distinct
advantage that it cannot be burnt out. It may be made as rapid in
action as desired, is inexpensive and very convenient where water is
required for experimental or industrial purposes.
[Illustration]
For the electrodes, procure two ¹⁄₂-in. uncoppered carbons, and drill
a hole in the top of each of these so that feed wires can be attached.
The handle is shaped from a piece of hard wood. The lower end is
hollowed out half round at either side, so that the carbons will fit
in snugly. Four small holes are then drilled through from side to side
for binding wires, and a large hole is made in the center for the feed
wires. Two smaller branch holes are then drilled to join the center
hole, so that the double feed cord may be branched out to reach both
electrodes. The outer edge of the handle is neatly rounded off and
boiled in paraffin so as to render it impervious to moisture.
Remove sufficient insulation from the feed cord to make a good
connection with the carbons. Fish the wire through the handle from the
upper end. Pull each of the two ends pretty well through, so that they
can be securely threaded into the holes previously made in the carbons.
Have the latter quite hot and run in as much solder as possible,
forcing it in with the end of a match as it becomes plastic. Remove all
traces of the flux, and paint the connection with some melted pitch,
taken from the top of a discarded dry cell. The feed cord may then
be pulled up tightly, which will draw the carbons in place. They are
then bound by threading through several strands of copper wire. If the
holes in the wood are slightly countersunk, and two small grooves filed
around each carbon at the right places to let the holding wires in, the
binding feature may be disposed of very neatly.
In some localities the water is so free from all mineral salts that it
will not carry the current freely, which means that the electrodes must
be placed closer together, or else a small pinch of common salt may be
added to the water. Although, in sterilizing instruments, boiling eggs,
or something of that sort, this would be of no advantage, the salt
greatly hastens the boiling.
Preventing Looseness of Drawer Handles
[Illustration]
Drawer handles frequently become loosened and sometimes cause further
annoyance by falling to the floor or becoming lost, because the bolt
fastening, as shown in the sketch, is not secure. This may be avoided
by inserting a rubber band between the head of the bolt and the
drawer front. When the knob is drawn up tightly the pressure of the
rubber band prevents it from becoming loosened.--Contributed by O. F.
Germaine, Akron, Ohio.
An Electrical Dancer
The modification of the well-known mechanical dancer shown in the
illustration is based on the principle of the electric bell. While the
amusing antics of the mechanical dancer are controlled by the hand, the
manikin shown is actuated by the electromagnet.
[Illustration: When the Contact is Made the Figure Dances]
The mechanism is contained in a box. It consists of an electromagnet
with a soft-iron armature carried by a spring. A wire from the battery
goes to the magnet. The other terminal of the magnet connects with the
armature spring at L1. The spring is bent at a right angle at its other
end, L2, and carries a platform, L3, strengthened by a smaller disk
underneath. The dancer performs upon this platform.
A contact spring, S, is carried by the armature spring. A contact
screw, C, is adjustable in its contact with the spring S. A wire runs
from the contact screw to the binding post B, to which the other
battery wire is connected.
The current keeps the platform in constant vibration, causing the
dancer to “dance.” By means of the screw C, the action of the current
may be varied, and the “dancing” will vary correspondingly.
The figure is made of wood with very loose joints and is suspended so
that the feet barely touch the platform.--Contributed by Edward C.
Connelly, Wilkesbarre, Pa.
Child’s Swing Built of Pipes in Narrow Space
[Illustration: This Substantial Swing Guards the Youngsters from Injury
by Brushing against the Brick Walls]
A narrow space between two city houses was used to erect a swing, as
detailed in the illustration. A piece of 2-in. iron pipe, A, was cut
1 ft. longer than the space between the walls. Two pieces of 2¹⁄₂-in.
pipe and a 2¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ by 1¹⁄₄-in. tee, as shown in the detail, was
slipped over the 2-in. pipe, which was built into the walls. A 1¹⁄₄-in.
pipe, B, 20 ft. long, bent as shown, was joined to the tee, and a seat,
C, was attached. The construction of the seat is shown in detail, being
fixed to the wooden part with washers, nuts, and a threaded nipple, D.
A cushion and a removable safety bar, E, were also features. This swing
is safer than one of rope, and will stand much greater wear.--James N.
Reed, San Francisco, Calif.
Door Bumpers Raise Height of Chair
Four wooden door bumpers, of the rubber-tipped knob type, fastened to
the lower ends of the legs of one of the kitchen chairs, make an almost
indispensable high chair, which will bring the table work to a more
comfortable height than the ordinary chair does. The young child also
will appreciate such a chair at the dining table. When it is no longer
needed, the knobs can be unscrewed quickly.--J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia,
Pa.
A Homemade Hawaiian Ukulele
BY S. H. SAMUELS
The one-string banjo, the cigar-box guitar, and similar vaudeville
favorites are giving way to the tantalizing ukulele, and the home
mechanic, to be up to date in his musical craftsmanship, must fall
in line. The size of this instrument makes it especially suited to
the cigar-box type of body construction, as detailed in the several
sketches and shown in the photograph reproduced. This neat ukulele was
made at a cost of 30 cents, by careful selection of materials from the
shop scrap stock.
[Illustration: This Cigar-Box Ukulele Cost the Maker 80 Cents, and
Affords Him the Pleasures of a More Expensive One]
A cigar box of good-quality Spanish cedar, about 2¹⁄₂ by 6 by 9 in., as
shown in Fig. 1, is used for the body. Remove the paper carefully, so
as not to mar the surface, soaking it if necessary. Take it apart, and
if the nail holes are too numerous, or broken out, trim off the edges.
Fit the parts of the body together, as shown in Fig. 2, the top and
bottom pieces resting against the side and end pieces, and the latter
between the sides. Cut the 2¹⁄₂-in. hole in the top piece, as shown,
3³⁄₄ in. from the neck end. To reinforce the body make strips A, ¹⁄₄
in. square, and fit them to be glued into the corners at the top and
bottom. Make strips B, ¹⁄₄ by ⁵⁄₈ by 4¹⁄₂ in., and glue them under
the top and on the bottom as indicated in Fig. 2. The final assembling
and gluing of these parts, using animal glue, should be done after the
bridge C is in place, and the other parts are made. The bridge is of
hard wood hollowed underneath the notched edge, as detailed, and is
fitted with a metal string contact.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 3
FIG. 2
To Keep in the Fashion in His Musical Craftsmanship, the Home Mechanic
may Make a Cigar-Box Ukulele as Detailed]
Spanish cedar or mahogany is suitable for the neck, detailed in Fig.
3. A single piece is best, but the extension for the pegs and the
wider end at the body may be joined and glued to the main portion of
the neck. Dowels should then be used to reinforce the joints. The
outline of the parts of the neck are shown in detail in Fig. 3. In the
sectional view at the right, the shape of the neck at the thinnest and
thickest parts is shown by the two upper curved, dotted lines. The nut
D is made of mahogany, walnut, or other hard wood, the grain extending
lengthwise, and the notches for the strings spaced as shown.
The making and spacing of the frets must be done very carefully. They
are of aluminum, brass and other metals being suitable also. Make the
frets ¹⁄₁₆ by ³⁄₁₆ in. and cut grooves ¹⁄₈ in. deep for them. The
spacing of the frets is determined as follows, a standard practice: The
distance from the metal string-contact on the bridge to the nut should
be measured carefully. The first fret, near the head, is ¹⁄₁₈ of this
distance from the nut, the total length being in this instance, 13 in.
The second fret is set ¹⁄₁₈ the distance from the first fret to the
bridge; the third, ¹⁄₁₈ from the second fret to the bridge, etc. The
frets must fit tightly in the grooves, requiring no special fastening.
The tuning pegs may be bought or made.
In assembling the parts, fasten the end of the body to the neck, with
glue, reinforced by screws. Set its upper edge parallel with the
fingerboard, and so that the latter is flush with the top of the body,
when fitted to it. Assemble the body, without the top, gluing it to
the end, fixed to the neck. When this portion is thoroughly dried, fit
the top into place finally, and glue it. The whole construction is
then cleaned, sandpapered, stained, and shellacked or varnished. The
stringing of the instrument is simple, and the strings may be purchased
in sets.
Homemade Suitcase Extension
[Illustration]
A handy addition to the traveler’s equipment is a suitcase extension
that may be removed when not in use, and folded compactly, inside
of the suitcase if desired. This latter feature is provided for
by arranging the extension to be folded vertically at the middle.
Heavy leather, cloth board covered with strong linen, or canvas of a
suitable color may be used. If cloth board is used it should be cut
the size of the side of the suitcase, and smaller sections hinged to
it at the folds. The leather need not be reinforced if it is fairly
strong. Cut the leather at A, B, C, and D, and arrange it to be folded
on the dotted lines. Rivet guides for the straps, as at E. Fit the
corners with buttons or snaps F, which are locked in position when the
extension is in use. The device slides over the suitcase and may be
drawn tightly against it when empty.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.
Putty Deadens Glossy Surfaces in Photography
Attempts to make “close-up” photographs of machinery, or highly
polished objects, often fail because the reflection of light upon the
bright surfaces causes a blur in the photograph. Some photographers use
putty to deaden the gloss. A lump of putty is rubbed over the surface
gently where a brilliant reflection is visible, or the entire surface
is rubbed so that it presents an even, dead finish on the ground glass
of the camera, when focusing.--Ralph W. Tillotson, Erie, Pennsylvania.
Coop for Sitting Hens
[Illustration: Each Hen Has a Compartment, with Plenty of Space for
Exercising]
When several hens are to hatch out settings at the same time,
considerable space can be saved and much convenience afforded by making
a coop as shown in the illustration. It consists of an outer frame
of boards, 1 ft. wide and 6 ft. long, or as long as desired for the
runway. The frame is divided into compartments by boards extending from
end to end, each compartment being for one hen. The frame is placed on
level ground and staked in place. At opposite ends of each compartment
is a hinged cover. The intervening space is covered with wire netting,
with shelter boards placed loosely over it. Under one of the hinged
covers the nest should be placed on the ground, and at the opposite end
food and water are provided. Each hen has plenty of space to exercise
in, and must at least get up for food and water. The individual covers
permit separate examination of the eggs, or feeding of the hens.--F. W.
Buerstatte, Pullman, Wash.
Smoking of Lamp Overcome by Increasing Draft
While sitting in a room around a lamp, a group of workmen discussed the
probable causes for the smoking of an oil lamp. By way of experiment,
holes were punched in the perforated part of the burner, increasing
the draft through the glass chimney. It was then possible to turn the
light up much higher, without the usual deposit of smoke. As a result
of this, several other troublesome lamps were soon remedied.--J. E.
McCormack, Haliburton, Ontario, Can.
Pencil Sharpener Made of Wafer Razor Blade
[Illustration]
This tool combines a knife and a file in one handle, of wood, 7 in.
long. The knife is a single-edged safety-razor blade, clamped to the
handle by two round-head screws. A space, ¹⁄₈ in. deep, under the
blade is allowed for chips, and a piece of a fine file is recessed
into the other end of the handle. To use this sharpener, hold it as a
pocketknife is ordinarily held in whittling. The blade will keep its
edge for a considerable time.--Ralph W. Hills, Madison, Wisconsin.
Device for Sharpening Fiber Phonograph Needles
[Illustration: By Using This Needle-Sharpening Device the Life of
Records is Prolonged]
A practical sharpener for fiber phonograph needles may be made
as follows: A lever handle, A, is cut from heavy sheet metal. A
safety-razor blade, B, is bolted to it, and the metal flap bent over as
indicated. A block, C, is cut so that the upper face makes an angle of
30° with the base, is faced with a metal strip, E. A triangular groove
is cut or filed for the needle G. The lever is hinged, as shown, by
means of a screw. A base, D, may be added. To operate the sharpener,
place a needle in the groove so that a very small portion of the
playing end extends past the face of E, and shear off the end.--C. M.
Hall, St. Louis, Missouri.
Canoe or Boat Stored in Pulley Slings
[Illustration: The Canoe is Stored in the Garage, and Conveniently
Hoisted into the Gable]
A canoe, or small boat, which is taken from the water when not in use,
suffers damage if it is left unprotected in the open. A practical
method of storing it so that it can be taken out quickly is to suspend
it from the roof structure of a small shed, or a garage, by means of
slings. The latter are made of double thicknesses of strong canvas, and
are provided with rings where they join to the lower pulleys of the
hoisting rope and tackle. The cushions, paddles, etc., may be left in
the canoe.--Robert W. Jamison, Mitchell, S. D.
Clod Rake Protects Corn in Cultivating
[Illustration]
Small corn is often injured by lumps of dirt being thrown on it when
cultivating. If these are not removed the corn may grow to one side
or may lie flat on the ground. In order that I need not get off the
cultivator to remove such lumps, I made a rake out of an old fork. The
tines were heated and bent, as shown. An iron rod may be used for the
handle, but the wooden one is light and easy to hold.
Curious Support for Call Bell
[Illustration]
Two highly polished horns fitted into a polished wooden base and banded
with silver form the support for a call bell shown in the illustration.
A tapper, which rests beside the stand, was made of a deer hoof.--James
M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Ordinary Pen Converted into Fountain Pen
[Illustration]
An ordinary penholder and pen point may be easily converted into a
fountain pen, with the aid of a brass paper clip of the kind shown.
The cap is pried off and the prongs straightened. One of the prongs
is cut to suitable length, and the end bent as indicated. It is then
inserted in the penholder, and adjusted to ¹⁄₈ in. from the end of the
pen point. The ink is placed between the bent clip and pen point, from
where it feeds evenly as needed. This kink is helpful when using the
heavier drawing inks, as well as with writing inks.--R. L. Templin,
Champaign, Ill.
Screwdriver Made from Buttonhook
[Illustration]
Losing a sewing-machine screwdriver, I easily made another by cutting
off the hook end of a buttonhook with a chisel. The cut end was placed
upon a piece of iron and, with a hammer, formed into a screwdriver in a
few minutes. The rounded top of the buttonhook makes it convenient to
handle or hang up.--E. M Bierwagen, South Bend, Ind.
Guarding a Camp Chest against Theft
[Illustration]
Unless a camp chest is secured to the ground so that it is difficult
for marauders to carry it away it cannot be left at unguarded camps
without some danger of theft. By fitting the chest, A over stakes, B
set into the ground with crosspieces, D a secure fastening is provided.
Cleats, C, with holes for lag screws, are fitted into the bottom of the
chest, making it easy to remove the fastening when desired. The cleats
are kept in the bottom of the chest when not in use.--K. A. Thompson,
Lexington, Va.
* * * * *
¶By carefully piercing the small end of an eggshell with a large
needle, a funnel for filling very small bottles is provided.
A Toy Horse That Walks
This toy, amusing for the youngsters, and their elders as well, will
repay one for the making of it. Use a cigar box for the carriage,
making it about 10 in. high, and shape it in the design shown. Nail a
piece of wood, ¹⁄₈ by 2 by 4 in. wide, on each side of the carriage,
and drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes in them for the axle. For the horse, take a
piece of wood, ¹⁄₂ by 4 by 6 in. long, and draw an outline of the head,
neck, and body. Cut this out and drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes where the legs are
attached.
[Illustration: The Toy is Pushed by Means of the Handle, Causing the
Horse to Walk]
Cut the legs as shown, about 3¹⁄₂ in. long. Attach them with small
bolts, or rivets, allowing space to move freely. The wheels are made
of pine, ¹⁄₂ in. thick and 3 in. in diameter. The axle is made of
³⁄₁₆-in. wire bent to the shape indicated, ¹⁄₂ in. at each offset.
Fit the wheels on the axle tightly, so as not to turn on it, the axle
turning in the pieces nailed to the sides of the carriage. The horse is
attached to the top of the carriage by a strip of wood. A 3-ft. wooden
handle is attached to the back of carriage to guide it. Wires are
attached to the legs, connecting with the offsets in the axle.--Charles
Claude Wagner, Los Angeles, Calif.
Safeguarding Contents of Unsealed Envelopes
The gummed flaps on envelopes for first-class mail are generally short,
and for sending photographs or second-class matter these short flaps do
not stay tucked in. The solution is to lengthen the flap, by pasting on
a sheet of paper, using the gum thereon.--G. N. Neary, New York, N. Y.
Revolving Outdoor Lunch Table
[Illustration: The Persons Seated around the Table Help Themselves to
the Food Conveniently by Turning the Central Top]
Picnic parties on one of the Maine lakes make much use of a large
table, having a revolving top, so that the lunch may be placed on
the center portion and the persons seated around the board may help
themselves handily. The stationary top is supported on several
cross braces of 2 by 4 in. stuff, and the revolving top, pivoted at
the center, is carried on wooden roller bearings, fixed near its
circumference. The lower portion of the table is in the form of
cupboards which are padlocked, providing storage space for equipment
left for the use of picnickers. The table is set under a pergola,
which provides shade. Benches, curved to fit the table, may be used
conveniently with it. A small table of this type is practical as a
children’s play table, providing convenient storage space for toys and
other articles.--E. E. Dickson, Holyoke, Mass.
* * * * *
¶When, in papering a bathroom with the same tiled paper on sides and
ceiling, the paper does not match in the ceiling corners, place a
strip of quarter-round there, and color it to suit the paper.
A Penny-in-the-Slot Newspaper Stand
[Illustration]
A silent, yet very successful “newsboy” is shown in the photograph
reproduced. Each rack holds one of the daily newspapers. The passer-by
puts a penny in the slot and selects his paper. The penny falls down
a chute, striking a bell, as evidence that the customer has paid.
Hundreds of papers are sold from this rack each day without the aid
of the newsboy’s shouts. The slanting shelves make it unnecessary to
provide weights for the papers.--M. F. Hall, St. Louis, Mo.
Pedals for Typewriter Space and Shift Keys Increase Speed
[Illustration]
By attaching pedals to the space key and shift key I increased my
typewriting speed about 20 words a minute. I made two pedals fast to
the typewriter desk, as shown, then ran stiff steel wires up to the
keys, connecting the latter to the wire with rubber bands. The pedals
are adjusted so that a light tap operates them. If a light typewriter
is used, it should be fixed to the desk. The wires can be unhooked
quickly from the typewriter, and suspended on hooks under the edge of
the desk.--W. J. M., Manila, P. I.
Timing Pointer on Watch Crystal
Working in a photo-print finishing plant where often several jobs need
attention and accurate timing, all at the same time, I find a pointer
on my watch crystal a great help. The crystal was loose enough to
permit turning it. I glued a three-cornered piece of black paper to
the under side of the crystal at the edge. When a batch of prints is
placed in a bath, the pointer is set 15 minutes ahead of the minute
hand. When the latter reaches the pointer, it reminds me to remove the
prints. After placing a batch of films in the developing tank, I set
the pointer ahead of the minute hand the required time for developing,
placing the watch in view, to see readily when the time is up.--A. J.
Viken, Waterloo, Iowa.
Portable Tent Made from an Umbrella and Paper Muslin
[Illustration]
Picnickers desiring to go in bathing are often handicapped by the lack
of a convenient place to change clothes. An umbrella and some paper
muslin provides a light portable tent that is practical and inexpensive
for such uses. Cut the dark paper muslin into as many 9-ft. lengths as
there are sections of the umbrella. Sew these strips together. At each
seam tie a string about a yard long and a stout cord 15 ft. long to the
handle to hold up the tent. For use, open the umbrella, invert it, and
to each rib tie one of the strings. Then tie one end of the cord to
the handle of the umbrella and suspend it from a tree or other support
as shown, weighting or tying down the other end.--Mabel Hubbard Birch,
Cincinnati, Ohio.
Memorandum List for Camping and Outing Trips
Persons who occasionally take an outing or go camping will find a
written list of articles needed on the trip a great saving of time and
mental energy. This list should be made while making preparations,
and again read shortly before the departure. It may be kept from
year to year, and items added or withdrawn, as experience teaches.
Classification is desirable, under heads such as camping gear, cooking
utensils, tableware, foods, supplies, etc. Each member of a party can
agree to furnish certain articles, avoiding duplication. Anyone who has
gone on outings and left behind some much-needed article, will readily
realize the help such a list can be, and by its use the amateur may
profit from the experience of others.
A Homemade Trouble Lamp
[Illustration]
By attaching a handle for carrying, and making suitable connections, a
portable trouble light was made of a dry battery. A strip of iron was
bent to the shape shown, for the handle, and fixed to the binding post
on the carbon. A bell from an alarm clock was drilled and tapped to fit
a small light bulb, and fastened at the zinc post. The upper edge of
the bell was bolted to the extension of the handle, as shown, leather
washers insulating it. A small switch, riveted loosely to the iron
strip, controls the light.--Carl A. Haberlein, McPherson, Kan.
* * * * *
¶Books to be stacked or carried should be arranged with the backs on
alternate sides.
Pulley and Weight Exerciser Homemade in the Orient
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
When the Necessary Hardware Was Not at Hand, a Satisfactory Rigging was
Made for Exercising, by the Use of Novel Substitute Materials]
Finding it difficult to obtain materials for the making of a gymnastic
exerciser, I made one with makeshift parts, typical of this locality.
Later I was able to get the necessary hardware and made an exerciser,
as shown in Fig. 1, quite similar to those manufactured commercially.
The original arrangement is shown in Fig. 2. I mounted a bamboo rod on
two iron brackets fastened to the wall. Small pegs provided guides for
the ropes, and the smooth surface of the bamboo caused little wear.
Other bamboo rods were used for the handle and to support the weights.
These were made by filling cans with sand, and tying them with cords.
This arrangement was quite practical, but did not give the desired
freedom of movement.--M. A. Laner, Hongkong, China.
Scoop on Painter’s Knife Catches Scrapings
By fitting a sheet-metal scoop to a painter’s putty knife or wall
scraper, much of the dirt and refuse resulting is caught in the
receptacle instead of falling to the floor and being tracked into other
rooms. The scoop is a rectangular can, and is fastened into place by
small bolts fitted through the scraper.
Gas-Hose Bracket for Ironing or Shop Use
[Illustration: The Bracket Gives Greater Freedom in the Use of the Gas
Iron]
In a home where it was customary to use an overhead gas fixture for
the attachment of the gas iron for ironing clothes, it was found that
mantles were frequently broken by the resulting jar. By making a
bracket for the gas hose, which is fastened to the end of the ironing
board or to the edge of the table, this trouble was remedied. The new
arrangement gave much greater freedom in the use of the iron. The
bracket can be removed quickly and fitted to a bench for use in the
shop.--M. J. F. Schramm, Ridgewood, N. Y.
Homemade Guide for Photo and Paper Trimmer
[Illustration: The Spring Hinge Presses the Guide Down on the Print
being Cut]
Having an old but still serviceable photograph trimmer, with which it
was difficult to trim prints uniformly and quickly, I made a guide for
this purpose and fitted it to the board, as shown. The guide is a strip
of wood, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, and is fastened to the cleat with a spring
hinge, mounted on a block. Although it is not transparent, like the
best commercial devices of this kind, it gives good service.--R. B.
Manck, Nazareth, Pa.
Joining Broken Liquid Column in Thermometer
To reunite the particles of mercury or other liquid, which have become
separated in a thermometer, raise it to the level of the extended arm,
the bulb outward, and jolt the tube with a quick downward stroke.
Repeat this, not too vigorously, until the liquid returns to its proper
position.
Umbrella Used as a Clothes Drier
[Illustration]
A clothes drier that can be carried in a purse or a vest pocket will
appeal to travelers, and persons living in small quarters. An umbrella,
four yards of strong wrapping twine, and several small brass rings are
required. Knot the rings into the twine at intervals, measuring the
distance between the rib points of the umbrella, and hook the twine to
the points by the rings, as shown, providing considerable drying space
for small articles. Hook the umbrella handle over a suitable support,
or tie it carefully to the supporting pipe of a light fixture in the
middle of the room, ready for the articles to be dried. The twine may
also be wrapped around the points, but it is better to carry a line
with rings attached.
* * * * *
¶By reversing the handle on a dust brush which has been worn near the
point, additional wear may be obtained.
Metal Band Stiffens Brush
In painting, and other work where a brush is used, it is often
desirable to stiffen the bristles. This may be done readily by fixing
a band of sheet metal over the brush, to slide tightly. By adjusting
it, the length and stiffness of the part of the bristles used may be
controlled.
Rubber Band Prevents Tangling of Telephone Cord
[Illustration]
It is exasperating to pick up the telephone receiver to answer a call
and find the cord twisted or wound around the telephone standard. A
long receiver cord will not tangle if a rubber band is used to support
it, as shown in the sketch. The elastics permits considerable play, and
if the fullest extension of the cord is desired, it may be supported
on several linked rubber bands, on the left of the standard.--K. M.
Coggeshall, Webster Groves, Mo.
Improvised Trousers Hanger in Train Berth
[Illustration]
The berth of a sleeping car is usually provided with a coat hanger,
but if there is a rod on it for trousers, there is nothing to keep
them from slipping off. By removing two of the curtain hooks, hanging
the trousers over the curtain pole, and replacing the hooks over the
trousers, a satisfactory hanger is obtained, which will not permit them
to slip down no matter how rough the road.
Headrest for Porch Swing
[Illustration: The Hinged Board Provides a Comfortable Headrest, and Is
a Safety Feature]
Here is a “peach” of a homemade porch swing--a shock-absorbing species.
The top board is attached with springy hinges, and affords an ideal
headrest. It also tends to prevent children from climbing over the
back.--H. W. Hart, St. Paul, Minn.
Fruit-Picking Pole with Gravity Delivery Chute
[Illustration]
For picking fruit without bruising it, in the home garden, or for
exhibition purposes, the fruit-picking pole shown in the sketch is
useful. A wire ring is fixed to the top of the pole, and the bag,
suspended from it, is fastened to the pole at intervals. The fruit is
removed by means of the ring and drops to the bottom of the chute,
which is held closed by the hand. For picking large quantities of fruit
a receptacle is carried by the picker.--Mrs. Ella L. Lamb. Mason,
Michigan.
A Set of Electric Chimes
A set of electric dinner chimes is a welcome and useful addition to
many households, and may be made at a trifling cost by the average
person handy with tools. The completed article is shown in Fig. 1, the
details in Fig. 2, and the wiring diagram in Fig. 3. The woodwork is of
¹⁄₂-in. stock. The back A, Fig. 2, is 1¹⁄₂ in., by 9³⁄₄ in. long. The
ends may be shaped to suit the builder’s fancy. The shelf B is 4 in.
square, and is fastened to the back piece 2¹⁄₄ in. from the upper end.
It supports the magnets C, which are made on cores, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter
and ³⁄₄ in. long, with ends ¹⁄₁₆ in. by 1 in. in diameter. The spools
are wound full of No. 28 silk-covered copper magnet wire. These coils
mounted on the shelf by means brass straps D. Four magnets are used,
the forward one being omitted in Fig. 2.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
When the Buttons are Pressed, Tones are Given Forth by the Electrically
Operated Gongs]
The supports E, for the tubes, consist of ¹⁄₂-in. lengths of ¹⁄₄-in.
square brass rod. One end of the rod is drilled and tapped for an 8-32
screw which holds the support in place. Drill a small hole, ¹⁄₄ in.
from the end, for the pin G, made of steel wire. The tapper H is made
from a 4¹⁄₂-in. length of stiff iron wire; 1¹⁄₄ in. from one end a
³⁄₈-in. cube of iron, J, is soldered, the wire passing through it. The
ends of the wire are fitted with balls as shown. A nickeled gong, K,
covers the four magnets. The end of the tapper is passed through the
hole in the gong and the ball riveted into place.
Four ³⁄₄-in. diameter tubes are used, respectively 3, 4, 5, and 6 in.
long. When the apparatus is assembled as shown, and one of the magnets
is energized, the latter will draw the iron cube J toward it, and the
tapper will strike one of the tubes.
To control the current supplying the magnets, four small push buttons
mounted on a wooden base are used. They are wired up with the battery
and coils, as shown in Fig. 3. A wire from each of the coils runs
directly to one terminal of the battery, the other wire from each coil
being connected to a separate push button. The other sides of the push
buttons are connected to the battery. By this means any of the magnets
may be energized at will, the coils and corresponding push buttons
being marked L and M, etc., alphabetically.
Tabs for Turning Sheet Music Quickly
[Illustration]
Musicians sometimes have trouble in turning over sheet music quickly.
Here is a simple way to turn the leaves quickly and easily: Paste a tab
on the edge of each sheet, as shown. The first sheet is tagged at the
top, the second in the middle, and the last sheet at the bottom, like a
letter file. Where there are many sheets, it is easy to grasp the upper
tab, on each successive sheet.--M. W. Meier, Chicago, Ill.
A Springy Hammock Support Made of Boughs
[Illustration: The Camp Bed can be “Knocked Down,” or Transported
Considerable Distances as It Stands]
In many camping places, balsam branches, or moss, are available for
improvising mattresses. Used in connection with a hammock, or a bed
made on the spot, such a mattress substitute provides a comfort that
adds to the joys of camping. A camp hammock, or bed of this kind, is
shown.
[Illustration: The Poles are Selected Carefully and Set Up with Stout
Cross Braces at the Middle, and Lighter Ones for the Mattress Support]
To make it, cut four 6-ft. poles, of nearly the same weight and 1 in.
in diameter at the small end. These saplings should have a fork about
2¹⁄₂ ft. from the lower ends, as resting places for the crossbars, as
shown. Then cut two poles, 2 in. in diameter and 3¹⁄₂ ft. long, and
two smaller poles, 3 ft. long. Also cut two forked poles, 4¹⁄₂ ft.
long, for the diagonal braces. Place two of the long poles crossing
each other, as shown, 1 ft. from the ground. Set up the second pair
similarly. Fix the crossbars into place, in the crotches, the ends of
the crotch branches being fastened under the opposite crossbar. The
end bars are fixed to the crossed poles by means of short rope loops.
The mattress is placed on springy poles, 7 ft. long and 2 in. apart,
alternating thick and thin ends. The moss is laid over the poles,
and the balsam branches spread on thickly. Blankets may be used as a
cover.--J. S. Zerbe, Coytesville, N. J.
A Revolving Card, or Ticket, Holder
[Illustration]
A holder which may be ornamented and trimmed with leather or other
materials, was made of several disks of wood, joined at the center by
a thumbscrew, and provided a neat place for calling cards, post cards,
etc. The block A, which fits against the wall, is ³⁄₈ in. thick and 2
in. in diameter. The disk C is ¹⁄₄ by 7 in., the disk D, 6 in., and
the metal disk E, 6 in. in diameter. The edge of the metal disk, which
may be of ornamented or etched brass, or copper, is curled forward as
shown. The thumbscrew B holds the disks together and fastens them to
the wall.--James E. Noble, Portsmouth, Ontario, Can.
Testing Direct Current Polarity with Litmus Paper
Litmus paper laid on glass, and moistened with a weak solution of
sodium sulphate can be used to test the polarity of a direct current.
If the two conductors are touched on the moistened paper, the latter
will turn red at the positive, and blue at the negative conductor.
* * * * *
¶A berry stemmer made of a small pair of tweezers is useful for
removing superfluous buds from garden flowering plants.
An Automatic Fishhook
The hook A is made of tempered brass or steel wire of a gauge
sufficient for the size of the fish to be caught. A wire of No. 18
gauge is about right for ordinary fishing, with a No. 20 or 22 gauge
for the trigger. Hooks, C C, can be soldered on the points to angle for
larger fish. Barbs are not required for smaller fish.
[Illustration]
Such a hook will catch the fish, even if they only nibble, and is
especially good for fishing through the ice. Use a bob and a pole, and
bait the short hook with a minnow or worm. The extreme length of a hook
for catching a 1-lb. fish should be 3 in. Fasten the line as shown at
B.--Contributed by Robert C. Knox, Waycross, Ga.
Temporary Binder for Magazines
The sketch illustrates an inexpensive temporary binder for periodicals,
magazines, newspapers, etc. It consists of four parts, namely, two
sheets of cardboard, A, the size of the magazine to be bound, and
two pieces of linen or tape, B. A slot is cut in each corner of the
cardboards about 1 in. from the edge. The tape is run through these
slots in the manner shown.
[Illustration: The Binding is Only Temporary to Keep the Magazines in
Good Condition for a Complete Volume]
The magazine numbers, as they are received, are placed on the back
cardboard, building them up consecutively as they come. The ends of
the tape are tied to hold them together. The backbone is open and the
contents are readily seen.
The sliding of the tape in the slots provides a means of holding from
one to as many copies as may be desired, and they are kept in good
condition until a complete volume is compiled, when a more permanent
binder can be made.
Instead of tape a leather strap can be used with a buckle. The tapes
can be fastened to one of the cardboards, allowing one end only to be
movable.
Combination Workshop Seat
A most practical and satisfactory way of using a stool in a small
workshop is shown in the illustration. In much of my small work at the
bench I find it an advantage to sit, and for that purpose I purchased a
small stool. My lathe is operated by a geared foot motor provided with
two foot levers which may be operated singly in a standing position or
both at a time when sitting. The attachment shown converts the stool,
the seat of which is too low except for bench work, into a comfortable
and neat seat for working at a lathe. The sketch is self-explanatory.
[Illustration]
A plate with a setscrew is mounted under the center of the stool seat,
through which a hole is bored for the seat post. Two pieces of iron
pipe, an elbow and an old bicycle saddle constitute the remaining parts
of the device. Provision is made for adjustment as to height, and the
position of the saddle may be changed in the ordinary way by using a
wrench on the part which grips the horizontal length of pipe, just the
same as the seat on a bicycle-seat post is adjusted.
Substitute for Rivets in Couches
The rivets in a couch come loose and work out quite often, leaving it
loose and wobbly. To make rivets fit properly by hammering them into
place is almost impossible and to repair the couch with stove bolts
makes an unsightly job. A very good repair and one that will make a
couch rigid and strong again is by the use of ordinary brass binding
posts from old dry-battery cells instead of rivets. These can be easily
placed without tools.--Contributed by G. H. Clemmons, Storm Lake, Iowa.
A Nonbinding Tool-Chest Slide Tray
[Illustration: The Spool in Each Corner of the Tray Rolls against the
Side of the Tool Chest]
The slide trays of a tool chest, especially if they are wider than
they are deep, are apt to bind. To remedy this trouble, I procured
four ordinary thread spools and inserted them in openings cut for
them in the corners of the tray. Holes were bored through the corners
for pins to hold the spools in place.--Contributed by J. V. Loeffler,
Evansville, Indiana.
A Brooder
[Illustration: The Feathers of the Duster in the Center of the Box Take
the Place of Those of a Hen]
A very effective brooder can be made of an old feather duster hung in a
box so that the tips of the feathers will come close to the bottom. The
brooder consists of a wood box about 1 ft. high. The cover is removed
and a hole cut in the center to receive the shank of the duster after
cutting its handle off. This makes an excellent substitute for the
feathers of the hen. Some finely cut hay, or sand, is placed beneath
so as to bring the level up sufficiently for the chicks to run among
the feathers. For ventilation, bore some holes in the sides of the box
near the top and cut a small opening for an entrance. For convenience
in cleaning, the cover should be hinged.--Contributed by Wm. T. Miller,
Roslindale, Mass.
How to Make a Fancy Buttonhook
Procure a piece of ¹⁄₄-in. round steel, about 5 in. long, and file
one end of it square for about one-third of the length, so that the
diagonal of the square part is less than the diameter of the rod. Cut
about 8 washers each, of brass and iron, from material, ¹⁄₈-in. thick.
Make the hole in the washers square to fit the square on the rod.
The washers can be cut out roughly on the outside, but they must be
larger than the diameter of the rod. Place the brass and iron washers
alternately on the rod, beginning with a brass and finishing with an
iron washer, which latter is held in place by riveting the end of the
rod on it.
[Illustration: The Different Colors of the Metals When Polished and
Buffed Give the Hook a Neat Appearance]
The washers are then filed round, and the remaining end of the rod is
tapered. The pointed end is bent into a hook. The whole length is then
polished and buffed.--Contributed by H. W. Hankin, Trail, Can.
Hinge Lock for Horizontal Sliding Windows
[Illustration]
A simple catch for fixing windows of the horizontal sliding type so
that it is difficult to pry them open is shown in the sketch. It is
made of an old hinge, one end of which is sharpened so as to engage
the surface of the frame on which the sash slides. When not in use the
hinge is folded up. It can be used to set the window at various points
when it is desired to have it partly open.--T. H. Linthicum, Annapolis,
Md.
Repairing a Brass Candlestick
[Illustration]
A brass candlestick brought to me for repairs had lost a crownlike bit
of ornamentation once fitting on the top of the grease cup. To make a
finish at this point I soldered therein a heavy brass nose ring. The
soldering being concealed on the under portion, the effect was very
good, and strength was added to the thin brass cup, preventing possible
denting of the edge.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Hand Guards for Motorcyclists
[Illustration]
When riding my motorcycle in cool weather, my hands became very cold,
and in order to overcome this, I had guards, like that shown in the
sketch, made of oilcloth. A piece, tapered from 10 in. at one end to
4¹⁄₂ in. at the other, and 12 in. long, was formed into a cone, the
smaller end being fitted, with an elastic band, over the handlebar.
The guards keep the hands comfortable without gloves in cool weather,
and, with gloves, are of great service in the winter.--George Westaway,
Davenport, Ia.
Bicycle-Handle Grip on Rake Handle
[Illustration]
By fitting a bicycle handle to the end of a rake handle a grip is
provided that is comfortable in the hand when considerable raking is to
be done. The sketch shows the grip attached. Several small brads were
nailed through the handle and countersunk so as not to injure the hand.
This prevented the grip from becoming loosened easily.
Removal Marker for Card Index
[Illustration]
A marker which is adapted for use in files of various sizes is shown
in the illustration. It may be made easily of medium-weight cardboard,
cut to the shape shown in the diagram below and bent as indicated. The
marker is inserted at a point in the index from which a card or other
filed material has been removed. It is of such a size that, when in
use, the tab projects only enough to be recognized, and the marker may
be left in the drawer so as to be convenient for future use. The sketch
shows the marker partly withdrawn. The small projections shown in the
diagram are important in that they act as springs when the marker is in
use.--John B. Wade, Wellington, Kan.
* * * * *
¶Gaskets cut from old inner tubes are satisfactory for water
connections.
Driving Nails to Prevent Splitting
[Illustration]
A nail driven so that it crosses the grain, as shown in the sketch,
is not likely to split the board through which it passes. The
splitting often results when the nail is driven straight. The nail
should be started at different angles according to the grain of the
wood.--Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.
Feeding Geese in a Poultry Yard
Having four geese in a yard with chickens, I found that the chickens
would not allow the geese to pick up the food. To feed the geese I
placed the corn in the bottom of a pan and filled it with water. The
geese will easily pick up the corn from under the water, where the
chickens would not attempt to touch it.--Contributed by Walter L.
Kaufmann, Santa Ana, Cal.
Homemade Calipers
[Illustration: The Spring Wire is Bent So That the Points Turn In or
Out as Desired]
A good pair of calipers can be easily and quickly made by anyone in the
following manner: Procure a piece of spring wire, about 15 in. long,
and bend it as shown in the sketch, allowing the ends to point inward
or outward as the style demands. A loop of heavy wire is fastened
around the center so that it can be slid back and forth along the
wire. This serves the purpose of an adjuster.--Contributed by Stanley
Radcliffe, Laurel, Md.
Starting Garden Plants
In starting small plants to get them hardy and ready to plant in the
early spring provide separate receptacles of paper, then the plant
can be set out without trouble and it will grow as if it had never
been moved. Procure some heavy paper and make the cups as shown in the
sketch.
[Illustration: The Paper Cup Starts One Plant and When Reset No Damage
Results from the Change]
The paper is cut into squares, the size depending on the plant, and
each square is folded on the dotted line AB. This forms a triangle of
a double thickness. The next fold is made on the line CD, bringing
the point E over to F. Then the paper is folded over on the line FG,
bringing the point H over to C. This will leave a double-pointed end at
J. The parts of this point are separated and folded down on the sides
which form the cup as shown.
These cups are filled with earth and set into earth placed in a
box. The seeds are planted within the cups. When it comes time for
transplanting, the cup with the plant is lifted out and set in the
garden without damage to the plant roots. The paper soon rots away and
gives no trouble to the growing plant.
Gas Stove for the Dining Table
The stove is made of one piece of No. 6 gauge brass wire and a 6-in.
length of ¹⁄₂-in. gas pipe, A. Drill six ¹⁄₁₆-in. holes in the side of
the pipe, spacing them evenly. Turn a cap on one end of the pipe and
fit a hose cock on the other. Start with the ends of the wire and make
one turn around the pipe, then make loops at both sides, to serve as
feet, and shoulders, on which to set the bread in making toast. From
this point, where the wires come together, twist them for a length of
6 in. They are then spread and formed into a circle about 4 in. in
diameter. The other side, or upright, is made in the same manner as
making the first part.
[Illustration: The Stove Takes the Place of an Electric Stove Where
There is Only a Gas Supply]
A piece of sheet metal, B, is cut to fit the space between the wires,
allowing projections at the upper and lower outside edges for bending
around the upright twisted wires. The entire stove can be nickelplated
if desired. It can be used in the same manner as an electric stove
and for the same purposes where a home is supplied only with
gas.--Contributed by E. L. Douthett, Kansas City, Mo.
Castings without Patterns
The sketch shows a method of making small castings that I have used for
several years and the castings so produced are strong and very durable,
almost equal to the ordinary casting. The idea may be of considerable
value to inventors and home mechanics.
[Illustration: A Mold Made in Plaster without a Special Pattern and Run
with a Soft Metal]
The mold is of plaster of Paris, held in a wood frame or box, and all
that is required in the way of a pattern is a plain block or anything
that will produce an impression of the general outline of the casting,
as shown in the sketch. After the impression is made the mold should
be dusted thoroughly with black lead. The journal bearings are then
located, holes drilled in the hardened plaster and wood pins set as
shown. These pins must be of hard wood and of a diameter to suit the
finished size of the bore. Brass tubing of a suitable size is cut off
to the length required and placed on the wood pins. These pieces of
tubing will be the brass bushings in the finished castings. Babbitt
metal is melted and poured into the mold. Before pouring the metal it
is well to be sure that the plaster is thoroughly dry.
The mold is as shown, and the upper side of the metal is at all times
exposed to the air. This makes it necessary to have all core prints on
the under side, as this side will be the one in view when the casting
is finished, and the upper side, as the casting lies in the mold, will
be the inside or unexposed side. In case of curved work, reinforcing
strips of sheet brass should be placed in the mold and imbedded in the
casting, as shown in the sketch by the dotted lines.
A little practice will enable anyone to produce very neat cored
castings. and when the brass bushings are fitted to size and faced off,
and the casting painted, a piece will be produced that will compare in
finish and general usefulness with anything of the nature that could
be bought. Do not treat the brass tubes with soldering flux unless
necessary, for they should be removable so that they can be replaced
when worn.--Contributed by J. B. Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.
A Developing-Paper Printer
Having a rush order for a large quantity of post cards, I was compelled
to adopt some way of making the prints quickly. As I was in a place
where a printer could not be secured for several weeks, I set about
making one, with good results, as shown in the illustrations.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
Parts for Making the Switch So That It will Operate Automatically as
the Cover is Moved]
I first secured an ordinary soap box and took it apart, being careful
to keep the boards whole, then rebuilt it to make a box with ends
measuring 12 in. square, and 14 in. in length. In one end I cut a large
hole to admit a 60-watt tungsten globe, then, taking another board, I
fitted a knob and hinges to it and used it for a door. The other end of
the box was centered and a hole bored large enough to admit an ordinary
socket. Another hole was bored, 4 in. to the right, for another socket.
A much heavier material was used for the lid than for the box, being at
least ⁷⁄₈ in. thick. A piece of double-strength, clear glass, 8 by 10
in. in size, was procured and set in a hole cut in the cover so that
its upper surface would be flush.
[Illustration: The Printer may be Set in the Table Top or Used
Separately, as Desired]
An ordinary single-pole switch was secured, as shown in Fig. 1, also
a small mousetrap, as shown in Fig. 2. The front part of the trap was
sawed off so that only the spring was utilized. The base of the trap
was then cut out to fit snugly on the base of the switch, into which
two corresponding holes were bored for the screws. The next thing was
to secure several clips, which were cut from sheet brass, to operate
the switch, and a lever to control the switch, as shown in Fig. 3. The
lever is 1 in. wide and 4 in. long, having a slot at the bottom, to
slip easily over the lever handle in the switch, and a hole, drilled 1
in. above the slot, to admit a nail to keep the spring from throwing it
out of position. The clips for holding the films, or plates, are shown
in Fig. 4.
[Illustration: Side View of the Printer, Showing Parts Assembled and
the Main Line Connections to the Globes]
After securing a double socket, of which there are many types, a few
yards of lamp cord, a piece of felt, 6 by 8 in. in size, and two
ordinary lamp sockets, I was ready to assemble the printer. The switch
was then placed on a board of the same width, the spring of the trap
placed on top of it and then fastened with screws. This board was then
cut off the length of the inside of the box and fastened in place, with
the switch and trap spring on top.
The ruby light A burns all the time, acting as a pilot in placing
the negative. When the cover B is lowered, after placing the paper,
the felt pad on the under side holding it secure, the projecting arm
C comes in contact with the switch lever D and makes the connection
to the tungsten light E. After the proper time for the exposure has
been given the cover is raised and by this action the tungsten light
is automatically shut off, leaving only the red light burning. With a
60-watt lamp I secure a print in about 3 seconds, which is fast enough.
Of course, by using a larger lamp, the time could be reduced to a
second or more, according to the size. The time given was obtained by
experience in using ordinary brands of papers.--Contributed by Harry
Marcelle, Honolulu, H. I.
Transposing Temperature Readings
[Illustration: The Readings can be Transposed from Fahrenheit to
Centigrade or Vice Versa Instantly by the Use of This Scale]
It is often necessary for the amateur scientist to transpose a
temperature reading from the Fahrenheit to the centigrade scale,
or vice versa. This is easily accomplished by means of the diagram
without the use of a formula. The centigrade readings are given on the
horizontal axis and the Fahrenheit readings on the vertical axis. The
temperature readings are the same at minus 40 deg. and from that point
on the Fahrenheit readings equal nine-fifths of the centigrade plus 32.
This reading is instantly seen by the scale.--Contributed by James F.
Boyd, Ann Arbor, Mich.
Protecting Plans in a Shop
The magazines I used in the shop, for making a few things from plans,
became so soiled that they were unfit for the library. I now keep them
clean by using a covering made of an old picture frame from which the
back was removed and a plain glass inserted in its place. This is
placed over the magazine or other plans on the bench and keeps them
clean, dustless, open and flat.--Contributed by H. J. Blacklidge, San
Rafael, Cal.
Homemade Eyebolts
[Illustration]
Many times one has use for an eyebolt when there is none at hand.
Eyebolts of almost any size can be quickly made of a spring cotter.
Simply thread the end, as shown, and use a nut and washer.--Contributed
by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.
To Keep Tan Shoes from Turning Dark
Tan-shoe polishes seem to rub the dirt into the leather and to darken
it in a short time. Tan shoes can be kept clean and well polished
without losing their original bright tan color if treated in the
following simple manner. Instead of using tan polish on a new pair of
shoes, dampen the end of a soft clean cloth, and rub a small portion of
the leather at a time with the moist end and then rub briskly with the
dry end. In this way tan shoes can be kept clean and nicely polished
like new.--Contributed by John V. Voorhis, Ocean Grove, N. J.
A Finger-Trap Trick
It is easy to fool one’s friends with the little joker made to trap a
finger. It consists of a piece of paper, about 6 in. wide and 12 in. or
more long. To prepare the paper, cut two slots in one end, as shown,
and then roll it up to tube form, beginning at the end with the cuts,
then fasten the end with glue. The inside diameter should be about ¹⁄₂
inch.
[Illustration: It is Easy to Insert a Finger in the Tube, but to Get It
Out is Almost Impossible]
When the glue is dry, ask some one to push a finger into either end.
This will be easy enough to do, but to remove the finger is a different
matter. The end coils tend to pull out and hold the finger. If the tube
is made of tough paper, it will stand considerable pull.--Contributed
by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Mass.
* * * * *
¶When mercury is spilled it can be picked up with a medicine dropper.
Homemade Roller Skates
[Illustration: Wheels Fitted into the Ends of a Long Board, to Make a
Roller Skate]
The long wheel base of the roller skate illustrated makes it quite safe
and will prevent falls. The construction of these skates is simple,
the frame being made of a board, 2 ft. long, 3 in. wide and 1 in.
thick. Holes are mortised through the ends to admit the wheels. A small
block, cut out on one side to fit the heel of the shoe, is securely
fastened centrally, for width, and just in front of the rear wheel on
the board. Two leather straps are fastened to one side of each board,
to fasten the skate onto the shoe. The wheels can be turned from hard
wood, or small metal wheels may be purchased, as desired. The axle for
the wheels consists of a bolt run through a hole bored in the edge of
the board centrally with the mortise.--Contributed by Walter Veene, San
Diego, Cal.
* * * * *
¶The screw collar of a vise should be oiled at least once a month.
How to Make a High Stool
[Illustration]
The cast-off handles of four old brooms, three pieces of board, cut as
shown, and a few screws will make a substantial high stool. The legs
should be placed in the holes, as shown at A, and secured with screws
turned through the edge of the board into the legs in the holes. The
seat B should be fastened over this and the legs braced by the square
piece C. Screws are turned through the legs and into the square piece
to keep it in position.
Keeping Magazines in a Book Form
[Illustration: Several Boxes will Appear the Same as a Set of Books and
will Preserve the Magazines]
Desiring to preserve magazine copies without binding them, I made
up a series of boxes that gave the appearance of books, and placed
the numbers in order in them as they were received. The sides of the
boxes consist of two thin boards, a little larger than the size of the
magazine to be placed in them. The ends are made of the same material,
wide enough to equal the thickness of the copies to be placed in each
box, four or six numbers, or a volume. One end of these pieces is made
slightly rounding, and the pieces are then put together as shown.
The rounded ends of the end pieces and the opening between the sides
are covered with a piece of cardboard or bristol board, to shape the
back of the box like a book. The finished box is entirely covered, like
a book, with cloth or imitation leather. The backs can be lettered and
decorated to appear like a book.--Contributed by R. M. Guarino, New
York City.
A Cardboard Creaser
[Illustration: The Wire on the Creaser Presses the Paper into the Space
between the Two Wood Pieces]
A simple apparatus for creasing thin cardboard or heavy paper in a
perfectly straight line without broken edges is described in the French
magazine La Nature as follows: On a base of convenient dimensions are
fastened two pieces of wood, well smoothed and of equal thickness, so
that there remains a slot, about ¹⁄₈ in. wide, between them. At one end
a hole is bored through these pieces for a shaft on which the creaser
will turn. The creaser is made of a piece of wood somewhat longer than
the baseboard so that a handle can be formed at one end. At the other
end it is slotted for a piece of metal, perforated for the shaft and
fastened with two pins or rivets, as shown. On the under side of the
creaser a stiff steel wire is fastened so that it coincides with the
slot. The wire is fastened by heating the ends red hot, bending them at
right angles to the main part and driving them into the creaser.
* * * * *
¶A razorlike edge can be put on a knife blade by carefully stropping
it without lubricant on a piece of smooth aluminum after first
whetting on an oilstone.
[Illustration]
A Miniature Illuminating-Gas Plant
BY MORTON SOUTHARD
[Illustration]
Very few persons realize that the smoke issuing from chimneys is mainly
coal gas carrying minute particles of unconsumed carbon that gives it
a dark-gray color, containing, besides, some sulphur and sulphuric
gases, carbonic-acid gas, and other impurities. It is only necessary to
collect the impurities to get a gas that will burn with a bright flame.
The products obtained from a gas plant are gas, ammoniacal liquor,
coal tar, and coke. Of 1 ton of coal, 1,500 lb. remains in the retort,
or furnace, as coke; 20 gal. of ammoniacal liquor and 140 lb. of coal
tar are taken from the cylinders and washers. When distilled, the
ammoniacal liquor will yield close to 18 gal. of ammonia, which is
used in the manufacture of artificial ice and cold storage. The coal
tar will yield approximately 19 lb. of benzol, which is the base of
all true aniline dyes; 6 lb. of naphthalene, commonly known as camphor
flakes or moth balls, which also yields some dyes; 4 lb. of toluene,
which is valuable as a solvent and is the base of saccharine, and about
2 lb. each of phenol (carbolic acid), pyrene, anthracene, xylenol,
cresol, chrysene, and alizarin. The residuum is coal-tar pitch, used
extensively as a binder for briquetting coal dust for household
consumption, and also for roofing and street paving. From these various
coal-tar products, dyes of every tint, shade and color are obtained,
as well as other industrial chemicals, from flavoring extracts to
perfumes, from volatile oils to high explosives, and from the sweetest
of all sweets to the bitterest of bitter.
A model gas plant--one that will be instructive and in no way dangerous
if proper precautions are taken--can be built from a few fire brick,
some pieces of pipe, and a few tin cans. Enough fire brick must be
secured to build a furnace 14 in. square by 20 in. high, inside
measurements. Build up the four walls on a level surface of the ground,
laying the bricks with a cement mortar to seal them perfectly, as
coal gas will find any small crevice and escape. For this reason it
is best to build a second wall outside of the first and plaster the
joint between them as it is built. When the four walls are finished,
make a grate of fire brick in the bottom by setting the brick on edge
and spacing them about ¹⁄₄ in. After the walls are dry, make ready
the material for the fire. Place sufficient kindling on the grate to
start a quick fire, then cover it with coal. When this is done, cover
the furnace with a heavy piece of asbestos board large enough to reach
the outside edge of the furnace walls. The board must be cemented to
the top surface of the brick walls. Place the cement mixture on the
wall top, then press the board on it, and place a weight on top until
the cement becomes dry. The cement mixture should consist of one part
cement to two parts of fine sand.
Procure a large can, such as used in canning tomatoes, having a
diameter of more than 4 in. and with top and bottom whole; also two
other cans, each having a capacity of 2 gal. with closed heads. Connect
the first can to the furnace with a piece of 2-in. pipe, as shown in
the illustration. The pipe can be bent for convenience, but in case
such a piece is not at hand, regular pipe connections can be made with
threaded ends, ells, waste nuts, etc. In either case, be sure to make
the joints gas-tight. If a bent pipe is used, the ends can be cemented
in the asbestos furnace top and the can top. Cut a hole centrally in
the asbestos top and at one side in the can top. Fit one end of the
pipe in the hole made in the asbestos and seal the connection with
asbestos cement, then do likewise with the end that enters the can top.
[Illustration: The Furnace Made of Fire Brick is Connected to the
Condenser and Washers with Ordinary Iron Pipe through Which the Gases
Pass After being Purified Before They Enter the Storage Tank]
In connecting the first and second cans, use a piece of 1-in. pipe.
This may be bent or connected with ells to form a U-shaped piece. In
either case, one end should be longer than the other so that one will
just pass into the first can, where it is sealed with asbestos cement,
while the other end passes through the second-can top, where it is
sealed, and extends to the bottom of the can. For the connection to the
third can, make a hole in the top of the second can, but do not seal it
up to the connection until the can is first filled with water to within
2 or 3 in. of the top. Also put powdered coke into the water, about
halfway of the can’s height.
The connection from the second and third cans should be made of glass
so that the gas can be observed passing through it between the cans.
This is not absolutely necessary, however, and a piece of ¹⁄₂-in. iron
pipe can be used instead. This pipe is connected in the same manner as
that between the first and second, extending to the bottom of the third
can and being sealed where it passes through the tops. The third can is
filled with water to within 2 or 3 in. of the top.
The gas coming from the third can or washer, is ready for use, but as
the pressure would not be uniform, a storage tank must be provided.
To make a storage tank suitable for the needs of this small plant,
procure two pans from 10 to 12 in. in diameter and from 3 to 4 in.
deep. One pan should be a trifle smaller, so that it may be inverted in
the larger pan, as shown. Make a connection from the third can with a
rubber hose to the bottom of the larger pan, near the center, and use
this pan as the bottom part of the storage tank. Pour into this pan
enough water to make it 2 in. deep, invert the other pan and set it
into the water. Attach a gas hose to the bottom of the inverted pan and
fasten a gas jet into the rubber-hose end. This will make the gas plant
complete and ready to operate.
To start the furnace, bore a hole in one side of the brick walls, about
the size of an ordinary lead pencil, and insert a lighted taper to set
fire to the kindling. There may be some difficulty in getting the fire
to burn at first, and it may be necessary to force considerable air in;
however, when the fire is fairly started, it will burn freely and the
gases will soon find their way through the first pipe to the condenser,
which is the first can. There they will mingle and deposit some tar and
ammonia, then flow out through the second pipe, up through the coke
and water in the second can and through the glass tube, where they may
be observed passing into the can of water, where some more tar and
ammonia will be deposited. After leaving this can the gas will find its
way through the rubber tube into the storage tank. It passes from this
tank to the burner, where it can be lighted and will burn with a bright
flame.
If it is possible to force steam into the furnace when the fire is at
its height, a much better quality and a larger volume of gas will be
made. This is accomplished by placing a closed can of water over a
fire near the furnace and connecting it to the latter with a piece of
1-in. gas pipe. The water in this can must be boiling hot at the time
the fire in the furnace is lighted. The steam entering the furnace is
decomposed, the hydrogen being released as a gas. The pipe connecting
the boiler with the furnace should be fitted in the furnace wall so
that the steam will pass in at the top of the fire; about halfway up
the side of the furnace being about right. The steam will start the
gases more rapidly and force them through the pipes.
Make sure that all connections are carefully sealed to prevent the
escape of gases, as they will always follow the lines of least
resistance and pass out through a very small crevice. The only danger
with a plant of this size is from fire, wherefore it should be built
away from inflammable materials. It will not make sufficient gas to be
of injury to any living being.
Webfoot Attachments for Swimmers
In order to make the feet more effective in swimming, webfoot devices
are frequently used. A simple arrangement for this purpose is shown
in the illustration. It consists of three thin sections of metal, or
wood, fastened together on the back side with spring hinges, which tend
to remain open, thereby keeping all the sections spread out in one
straight surface. The center section should be cut to conform closely
to the shape of the foot, or it will produce considerable resistance
during the onward stroke of the foot, and tend to stop the forward
movement of the swimmer. Straps should be provided for attaching the
device to the foot; one to fit across the toes, and the other adjusted
around the ankle by a buckle.
[Illustration: Device for Attaching to the Feet to Work Like Webfeet]
When using the device, the upward or forward stroke of the legs will
cause the wings to brush against the water, creating sufficient
resistance to overcome the slight force of the springs, thereby pushing
the wings parallel with the direction of the stroke. During the
opposite, or pushing, stroke, the resistance of the water combined with
the opening tendency of the hinges will quickly spread the wings out
flat, greatly increasing the effectiveness of the feet.--Contributed by
J. B. Laplace, New York City.
Repairing Sectional Spun-Metal Candlesticks
In repairing hollow, spun-brass candlesticks I find that frequently the
metal rod holding the sections together becomes loosened from the pitch
composition designed to hold it in the base. By tinning the outer edges
of the sections that fit into the other portions, which are also tinned
on the inner surfaces, and then using an iron, or an alcohol torch,
to run the solder together at these points, I secure a very firm job.
Paper can be placed at points necessary to keep the solder from running
out of bounds. When the rod is firm and the nut only gives trouble,
solder can be used to fasten the nut permanently to the grease cup at
the top.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Alcohol Blowtorch for Difficult Soldering
[Illustration: Clamps for Holding the Alcohol Receptacle on the End of
the Blowpipe]
To solder in close places, I have found the device illustrated quite
convenient, as it leaves both hands free to handle the object being
soldered. Two pieces of spring brass, about 3 in. long and ¹⁄₄ in.
wide, are bent to the shape shown at A and clamped together with a
screw taken from a dry cell, as shown at B. This device clamped to
the blowpipe end and fitted with a tube, such as used for holding
pencil leads, filled with a wick saturated in alcohol, completes the
blowtorch. It makes an excellent tool for small work, as the hands are
free to hold the parts to be soldered in place.--Contributed by J. A.
Tandy, Ghent, Ky.
* * * * *
¶Electric wires should never be run crooked.
Preventing Sewing-Machine Thread from Tangling
[Illustration]
The highly enameled surface of a sewing-machine arm offers so little
resistance to the bottom of the spool that the thread will unwind
faster than it is used, thereby causing a tangle. A piece of paper
slipped over the spool post will cause enough friction to prevent the
spool from revolving beyond the proper speed.
Bearing Made of a Brass Cartridge
[Illustration]
A brass cartridge makes a good bearing to fit in a wood driving rod
used to run a small piece of foot-power machinery. It prevents wear
on the wood and admits more lubrication than the bare wood. Cut the
cartridge to the proper length, and ream out the cap hole even with the
diameter of the bore of the shell.
Lighting a Match in the Wind
[Illustration]
To light a match in a stiff wind is very easy if the wood part back
of the prepared end is cut and turned up about it before striking the
match. The curled-up shavings about the striker will catch fire easily
and hold a flame, where in the ordinary way it is easily blown out when
the composition of the striker has burned up.--Contributed by E. K.
Marshall, Oak Park, Ill.
[Illustration]
A Miniature Cement Plant
BY MORTON SOUTHARD
For many years geologists searched for a substance which could be
molded into any size and form, and would have the hardness of rock.
As a matter of fact it was found that limestone was composed of
carbonic-acid gas, clay, and lime, and that when great heat was applied
the sealing bond was disrupted and the rock was reduced to a powder.
When this powder was placed in water the gas was set free so fast that
it made the water boil. The powder, or calcined rock, is now known as
lime. This action demonstrated that nature used heat and moisture in
forming these materials into rock. Knowing that clay contained silica,
and that silica furnished the sealing quality of rocks, experiments
were made to reverse the order of this rock formation, and a cement
was produced. Equal portions of lime and clay were mixed together and
stirred until all parts were thoroughly mingled, and then the mixture
was subjected to a very high heat, after which the resulting mass was
ground to a powder. When this powder was mixed with water, instead
of the gases passing off as they did in the case of the lime, they
penetrated the clay and the mixture became hard. This was first called
Portland cement, as it was made from Portland limestone.
[Illustration: The Furnace is Built Up of Ordinary Brick and Used for
Calcining the Lime]
This discovery partly solved the problem of artificial-rock making,
but not wholly, for the best makes will break, peel, and crack without
the slightest cause and when least expected, and besides its dark-gray
color and rough appearance is unattractive. Much progress has been made
with cement for interior decorations and many of the finest marbles are
closely imitated. This grade of cement will not weather and its use is
confined wholly to interior work. A white cement is much desired and
many of the large manufacturers maintain laboratories where experiments
are carried on constantly in the endeavor to produce it.
To build a miniature cement plant, first secure sufficient common brick
to make a furnace with an inside cavity, 20 in. square and 24 in.
high. Two sides and one back wall are built up, sealing the brick with
mortar, clay, or cement. The bottom is covered with bricks standing on
edge, and so placed that they will be about ¹⁄₄ in. apart, to serve
as a grate. The top is then covered with a piece of tin, or asbestos,
and a hole is cut in its center to receive a pipe, about 3 in. in
diameter, for a chimney. This chimney should be about 15 in. high.
Build the front wall halfway up by laying the brick loosely together
so that the fire will get the air through the crevices, then cover the
grate with kindling, place coal on top of it, and start the fire. When
it is well under way, place a few fair-sized lumps of limestone on top
of the fire and complete the wall to the top by laying the brick as
closely as possible. Use sufficient coal to burn at least two hours.
When the fire has burned itself out and the furnace has cooled,
remove the front wall and take out the burned limestone. Some parts
of the limestone will be mixed with the coal, but most of it will
remain in the lump, which is known as “black lime,” and when it is
placed in water it will give off gas very fast. Obtain some fire clay
and thoroughly mix equal portions of lime and clay, then place the
mixture in a one-piece pan, made of pressed tin or sheet iron, as a
soldered-bottom pan will come apart with the heat. Build up the front
of the furnace as before, build a fire and place the pan on the fire
and let it burn itself out. When the furnace has cooled, remove the
front, take out the pan, and pulverize the mass in the pan. When this
powder is placed in water it will become hard. If some sand or gravel
is mixed with it, and the mortar thus formed is spread out over a flat
surface, a miniature cement sidewalk will be the result.
Gauge for Laying Out Model Gear Wheels
[Illustration: The Gauge Steps Off Each Tooth Accurately for the Saw to
Cut the Next Slot]
The illustration shows a simple device for making small gear wheels by
hand. It is made of a piece of brass, ¹⁄₈ in. thick and about 5 in.
long, shaped as shown, forming a tooth, A, according to the size of
the teeth required in the gear wheel, with the end B on a radial line
from the center of the wheel. Use one or more hacksaws, according to
the size of the slots or teeth to be cut. If one blade is not large
enough and two are too large, grind off the teeth on the inner side of
the saws, or if two are not large enough, place a thin piece of paper
or metal between them to make the thickness required. Make a clamp, C,
for holding the blades together, by using a piece of sheet brass, 6 in.
long and ¹⁄₂ in. wide. This clamp also acts as a depth gauge for the
slots.
Place the wheel in a vise and proceed by cutting the first slot very
carefully. Place the tooth A of the gauge in this first slot and cut
the next by holding the side of the saw close up against the end of
the gauge, at B. This keeps all the teeth radiating from the center
of the wheel. Cut each slot in the same manner until all of them are
formed.--Contributed by George Jupp, New York City.
Homemade Level
[Illustration: A Bottle Filled with Water and Tied to a Straight Piece
of Wood for a Level]
Having need of a level, and there being no place to obtain one within
several miles, I constructed one as follows: A long medicine bottle was
filled with water and tied to a straight piece of wood, 2 ft. long.
After setting it properly by turning the piece end for end several
times, I found that it could be used with accuracy.--Contributed by
Fred L. King, Islip, L. I.
A Tuberculosis Cottage
BY N. F. FULTZ
The tuberculosis society of a certain locality needed a demonstration
cottage for their crusade against the white plague, and they placed
their need before the boys of the public-school shops. One class of
eighth-grade boys volunteered, and two days after the job was started
the complete cottage was delivered to the society. The material
required for its construction was as follows:
220 linear feet of ship-lap, 1 in. thick and 6 in. wide.
80 ft. of 1-in. flooring.
6 studs, 14 ft. long.
7 pieces for plates and rafters, 2 by 4 in., 10 ft. long.
3 pieces for sills, 2 by 4 in., 16 ft. long.
100 ft. of sheathing boards.
100 ft. of tar roofing paper.
The cottage is constructed in sections and can be assembled or
dismantled in 30 minutes. The sections are not so heavy but that they
can be handled with ease by two men. There are seven sections, namely,
the floor, two sides, two ends, and two roof sections. If the cottage
is to be moved only a short distance, it can be loaded into an ordinary
dray assembled.
Since the building is made in sections, it is well to construct the
floor first, which is a simple matter. Cut two sills of the 2 by 4-in.
stock, 10 ft. long. Cap these onto the ends of the five joists, which
are cut from 2 by 4-in. stock, to a length that will total 8 ft. when
the thickness of the two sills are added. Lay the flooring the long
way of the section, bringing it flush with all outside edges. This
completes the floor section.
The two side sections are made in a similar manner. Cut the studs--12
of them--6 ft. 4 in. long, and four plates, 10 ft. long. Cap the
ends of the studs with the floor and rafter plates, according to the
measurement on the floor plan. Nail five pieces of ship-lap, cut 10
ft. 1¹⁄₂ in. long, on the bottom of the section, and one similar board
to the top edge. Bore four holes, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter, 1 in. from the
outside edge in the floor plate. These are for ¹⁄₂-in. lag screws, to
hold the parts together when the sections are assembled.
The front-end section is arranged for a 30-in. door. The top, or
rafter, plate is cut 7 ft. 4¹⁄₂ in. long. This makes the allowance for
the width of the side studs and plates when they are to be assembled,
a very important matter to remember. The floor plate is cut 4 ft. 5
in. long. Provide a dummy, made from a waste piece, to be fastened at
the bottom of the door studs until the sections are assembled, when it
is removed. Use screws to fasten this piece in place. Nail five pieces
of ship-lap, 5 ft. long, at the bottom of the section, and an 8-ft.
piece at the top. Be careful to set the end studs in from the end of
the board the exact thickness of the corresponding studs on the side
section.
[Illustration: Cottage Built by Boys to Fill the Requirements of a
Tuberculosis Society for a Demonstration in Their Crusade against the
White Plague]
The back-end section is much more easily made. The top plate, as well
as the floor plate, is cut the same as on the other section. Place the
intermediate stud on the center and nail on ship-lap, as in the other
construction.
[Illustration: Lap-Joint Corner Construction with Angle-Plate
Reinforcement for the Screens or Storm Screens]
In making the roof sections, cut four rafters for an 18-in. pitch, or
any other pitch desired. These are to be placed at the ends. Note the
notch on the lower end of the rafter marked A in the illustration. Make
allowance for the thickness of the rider marked C. This piece can be
made of 2 by 4-in. stock or any convenient material 1 in. thick. The
rider must be nailed to the comb end of the rafters of one section,
while a dummy, fastened to the under side of the rafters of the other
section, will serve the purpose of holding them true until the roof is
placed. Nail the sheathing on, closing the cracks between the boards as
well as possible. Start at the comb end and bevel the first board for
the comb joint. Make allowance for an 8-in. board at the lower end, so
that a 4-in. overhang may be had. Cover these sections with the desired
roofing. Place two screw holes at the lower end of each rafter to be
used in holding the roof in place. Always use screws instead of nails,
if the house is to be dismantled. Provide three rafter locks, marked B,
and then the roof is ready for assembling.
[Illustration: The Floor Section Consists of Simple Frame Construction
of Ordinary Material and Flooring Boards Fastened on the Frame to Make
the Edges Flush with the Sides and Ends]
The three gable boards, cut from ship-lap, can be more easily made
after the cottage is assembled. After they are fitted, each board must
be fastened with screws which will find a hold in the rafters. These
boards are marked D. Be sure that all lag-screw holes for the corner
and floor moorings are bored before starting to assemble the parts.
The screens are made with the half-lap construction at the corners
reinforced with angle plates. This construction is shown in the detail
sketch. The screens, or storm wings, should be covered with a good
grade of oilcloth or canvas. They are hung with an ordinary 3-in. wing
hinge.
The adjusting device for these storm wings consists of a piece of
1-in. gas pipe, 4 ft. long, threaded on one end to receive a collar.
Two flanges are used, one on each side of the board, above the wings
and located centrally. A wood plug is driven into the outer end of the
pipe, and a small pulley, suitable for a ³⁄₈-in. rope, hung on it.
Place a screw eye centrally into the lower edge of the wing and tie the
end of a ³⁄₈-in. rope to it. Run the other end of the rope through the
pulley and a hole in the wall. Place screw eyes, to which the rope may
be tied, at proper places on the inside of the wall boards. An ordinary
screen door is hung in the door opening.
[Illustration: Each Section is So Constructed That It can be Easily
Handled and Set Up with the Others to Form a Cottage, Only Screws being
Used to Fasten the Joints for Quick Assembling]
A house built in this manner was placed in the courthouse lawn as a
permanent fixture. Among other things brought out in the construction
was the fact that a cottage may be built by a boy at a cost less than
$50. Thus a stricken parent, brother, or sister may be provided, by the
hands of a young mechanic, with the first means that may bring him or
her back to health.
To Remove Putty from the Hands
Putty purchased from a dealer is usually in a soft and oily state,
and the amateur glazier soon finds his hands, as well as the tools,
plentifully smeared after the job is finished. Removing this from
the hands with the putty knife or a stick is very tedious, but if a
bunch of fine excelsior is used, the putty will be removed quickly and
thoroughly.
Focusing Screen for Enlarging Cameras
It is often very difficult when focusing an enlarging camera to
determine just when the perfect focus is reached, especially when
the negative is dim and without contrasting lights and shades. This
difficulty may be overcome and a perfect focus quickly determined by
the use of a focusing screen prepared as follows: Take a clear film or
plate, one that has been fixed without being exposed, and when dry,
rule lines on it with India ink to form small squares. To make the ink
adhere to the film, dust the latter with talcum powder.
To use the screen, slide the film to be enlarged in place and set it
for the size of enlargement, focusing roughly. Remove the film or plate
and put the screen in its place. The camera may now be brought to a
perfect focus with ease, as the black lines show up sharp and clear on
the screen. When the focus has been determined the screen is removed
and the film replaced.
The squares may be drawn from ¹⁄₄-in. size down to the smallest it
is possible to make. For large views it is easier to focus with the
smaller squares. If the squares are made to a certain size they can
be measured when thrown on the screen and the degree of enlargement
determined.--Contributed by R. H. Galbreath, Denver, Colorado.
* * * * *
¶The longitudinal carriage handle should never be held in the hand
when cutting threads.
An Indian Snake Game
[Illustration: Throwing the Snow Snake in Tracks Made through the Snow
with a Log: Each Player Tries to Get His Snake First Out at the End of
the Track More Times Than His Opponents]
Ask any Canadian Indian what a snow snake is, and he will tell you that
it is a piece of twisted wood, such as a wild grape vine, about 5 or
6 ft. long, and 1 in. or over in thickness, stripped of its bark and
polished. It is grasped with one hand in the center and given a strong
forward throw at the tail end by the other hand, while at the same
time the hold in the center is loosened. With a hard bottom and about
1 in., or more, of light snow on top--ideal conditions for playing the
game--the Indian snake will travel for a long distance when thrown by
an expert, and to a novice seeing the snake traveling along at a rapid
speed, raising and lowering its head as the wood vibrates from side to
side, its resemblance to the real reptile is perfect.
When the Indians have tests of skill with the snake they make tracks
through the snow by drawing a log in it, and sometimes as many as a
dozen tracks are made side by side, and a dozen snakes are sent along
at once. The one who makes his snake emerge from the end of the track
first the most times out of a certain number of throws, takes the
prize. The trick of throwing the snake is not at all hard to acquire,
and it makes an exciting game.--J. E. Noble, Toronto, Can.
Storage of Wood for Cabinetwork
When working with wood to be made into furniture, or other
constructions of a high grade of workmanship, the ends of the finished
pieces should be shellacked in order to prevent moisture from entering
the ends. The ends are more susceptible to moisture, as the pores of
the wood are exposed. The application of this remedy will often prevent
warping or winding of boards, which is particularly distressing after a
piece has been shaped to its final size.
The pieces should be stored in a warm, dry room, and in any event care
should be taken that they are exposed evenly. If a board is placed
on the top of a pile of similar pieces, it will be noted that, if
left overnight and the weather becomes rainy, the upper piece will be
warped. This is caused by the absorption of moisture on the upper side,
the resulting expansion forcing the piece to warp or curve.
Long pieces of wood under process should be set on end while being
stored temporarily. The permanent storage should be in racks having
supports about 2 ft. apart. If the supports are too far apart, the
boards may warp or wind at intervening points. Boards in piles should
be separated by strips about 1 in. thick, set about 3 ft. apart, in
order that the lumber may be open to the air. This will keep the stock
more uniformly dry.
Hanging Heavy Rug on a Line for Beating
[Illustration: When the Rug is Placed on the Line It is Easily Raised
by Pulling the Rope Ends]
An easy way to put a heavy carpet, or rug, over a clothesline is to
fasten two pulleys, one to the house and the other to a post or tree,
or on two posts, and hang the line between them; then pull the rug
over the line and draw up the ends of the line. A very heavy rug can
be easily hung in this manner. The line should be long enough to reach
over the pulleys and to the ground and have end enough at both supports
for fastening.
Repairing a Broken Metal Cross
[Illustration]
A metal cross, the shank of which was imbedded in a plaster ball, broke
off level with the top. Not wishing to remove some of the plaster to
take out the shank, I soldered a stout brass pin on the back of the
cross, allowing the pin to project far enough to fit solidly into a
small hole back of the shank. This allowed the cracked edges to fit
closely together so that the crack could be entirely concealed with a
touch of bronze paint.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
To Determine the Efficiency of Electrically Heated Devices
[Illustration: Connections to the Voltmeter and Ammeter for Measuring
the Input to an Electric Heater]
The efficiency of any machine is defined as being the ratio of the
output to the input expressed as a percentage, and both quantities must
be measured in the same units. For example, the output of a motor is
10 hp. when the power taken by the motor from the electric circuit to
which it is connected is 9,325 watts. What is the efficiency? Since the
output must be expressed in the same units it is necessary to change
the 10 horsepower to watts or the 9,325 watts to horsepower. There are
746 watts in each horsepower. The 9,325 watts are equivalent to 9,325 ÷
746 or 12.5 hp. The efficiency is then equal to 10 ÷ 12.5 or .8; that
is, the output is .8 of the input or, when multiplied by 100 to change
it to percentage, 80 percent.
By way of an example, consider the efficiency of an electric heater,
like the one shown in the illustration, which is immersed in water
placed in a suitable vessel. The energy input to this heater in a given
time may be easily determined by measuring the current passing through
the heater circuit and the difference in pressure between the terminals
of the heater. These measurements may be made, in case the heater is
operated on a direct circuit, by means of any ammeter and voltmeter of
suitable capacity, connected as shown. If the heater is operated on
an alternating-current circuit, only alternating-current instruments
can be used, as certain types of instruments will not operate when
connected to such a circuit. In either case, the product of the ammeter
reading in amperes and the voltmeter reading in volts will give the
power taken by the heater in watts, assuming the heater winding to
be noninductive. If the heater winding is not noninductive, then the
current and the electrical pressure will no longer be in phase when the
device is operating on an alternating-current circuit, and a wattmeter
must be used. Practically all heating elements are wound noninductively
so that the power may be measured by means of an ammeter and voltmeter.
The energy taken by a heater in a given time will be equal to the
product of the average power and the time. For example, if the heater
takes 300 watts for 30 minutes--¹⁄₂ hour--then the energy consumed
is equal to 300 times ¹⁄₂ or 150 watt-hours, which is equal to .15
kilowatt-hour.
To determine the output of the heater is a little more difficult, but
it may be approximated as follows: Since the object of the device is to
convert electrical energy into heat energy the output must be measured
in heat units. The unit of heat most commonly employed is the calorie,
which is the heat required to raise the temperature of one gram of
water one degree centigrade. Hence, if a certain weight of water has
its temperature increased a definite number of degrees centigrade by
the electric heater, then the total heat imparted to the water in
calories will equal the weight of the water in grams multiplied by
the change in temperature in degrees centigrade. Of course, the heat
generated by the heater exceeds that obtained by the above calculation,
due to the fact that some heat is imparted to the vessel containing
the water and to the supports for the vessel, but it is only the heat
imparted to the water that must be considered, as the other heat is not
useful.
When the temperature of the water is raised to the boiling point and a
part of the water is evaporated, the foregoing method of calculating
the heat imparted to the water no longer holds good, and the following
method must be used. Weigh the water before and immediately after the
test to determine the amount of evaporation. For each gram of water
evaporated there will be required approximately 536 calories, and the
heat in calories imparted to the water to raise its temperature to
the boiling point will be equal to the difference between 100 and the
initial temperature of the water multiplied by the weight of the water
at the start. To determine the efficiency, the input to the heating
element in electrical units must be changed to heat units which may be
done by multiplying the power in watts by the time in seconds and this
product in turn by .24, giving the result in calories. The following
example may serve as a help in performing such an experiment or test.
Weight of water at the start 500.0 grams.
Weight of water at the end of test 474.5 grams.
Temperature of water at the start 25 deg. C.
Average current taken by the heater 6.5 amperes.
Average pressure at the heater terminals 110 volts.
Time heater is connected 5¹⁄₂ minutes.
Change in temperature of the water 75 deg. C.
Heat developed in heater:
6.5 × 110 × 5¹⁄₂ × 60 × .24 = 56,628 calories.
Heat absorbed by water in coming
to boiling point: 500 × 75 = 37,500 calories.
Heat used in evaporating 25.5
grams of water: 536 × 25.5 = 13,668 calories.
Total heat absorbed by water 51,168 calories.
Efficiency of heater:
51,168
------ × 100 = 90.4 per cent.
56,628
This value of efficiency may be increased by insulating the vessel with
a nonconductor of heat and providing a covering for it, thus decreasing
the losses to the air and surrounding objects.
The efficiency of an electric stove or electric iron, or, in fact, any
electrically heated device, may be determined in a manner similar to
the water heater. In the case of a stove, place a vessel filled with
water on it and measure the heat imparted to the water in a given time,
also the input to the heating element in the same time, from which data
the efficiency may be calculated. In the case of an electric iron,
dampened cloths may be ironed and the actual water evaporated by the
iron, determined by weighing the cloths before and after the ironing,
together with the increase in weight of the cloth on the ironing board,
the time the iron is in use and the temperature of the cloths. The
actual water evaporated is the difference in the weight of the cloths
before and after ironing, minus the increase in weight of the cloth on
the ironing board, which takes up some of the moisture from the cloths
being ironed.
Earthen Mustard Pots Used as Acid Jars
[Illustration: A Bottle Made from an Earthen Mustard Pot to Contain
Acid]
A small earthen mustard pot of the type shown makes an ideal acid pot
for the bench, as it is not only acid-proof but will not upset so
easily as the ordinary acid bottle. The large cork, or stopper of soft
wood, thoroughly boiled in hot paraffin, is bored for the insertion of
another paraffined cork holding the acid-brush handle. If a coat of
paraffin is given the handle, it will easily resist the action of the
acid and last much longer.
Squeezing Paste from Tubes
[Illustration]
Tubes of paste, glue, etc., may be more easily handled by applying an
ordinary key, such as found on most cans containing fish put up in
oil. The end of the tube is inserted in the slot of the key and then
turned.--Contributed by J. H. Priestly, Lawrence, Mass.
Seeing an Alternating Current in a Mirror
It will almost appear impossible to those unfamiliar with laboratory
methods that one may watch the vibrations--3,600 per minute--of an
alternating current in a little pocket mirror without the use of any
apparatus other than a telephone receiver. The experiment is very
interesting and instructive, one that may be performed at practically
no expense.
[Illustration: The Alternations of the Current may be Seen by Looking
in the Mirror]
Take an ordinary inexpensive watchcase receiver, drill a hole in the
cover for a short piece of brass tubing, to make a gas connection, and
then plug up the center opening with a cork, into which is tightly
fitted a piece of ¹⁄₈-in. tubing. The upper end of this should be
closed with a plug having a central opening about the size of a pin.
Procure a small rectangular pocket mirror and remove the celluloid
covering, and then, across the back, solder a piece of straight wire to
form a vertical spindle, about which the mirror may be rotated. Connect
any resistance, such as a magnet coil of 10 or 20 ohms, in series with
an incandescent lamp, and then connect the receiver terminals to the
ends of this resistance. In this manner an ideal alternating-current
supply of a few volts to operate the receiver safely is secured. Turn
on the gas only sufficient to produce a narrow pencil of flame, not
over 1 in. long. Mount the mirror as shown, or hold the spindle between
the thumb and forefinger of the left hand while rocking it back and
forth with the right. Ordinarily only a streak of light will appear,
but immediately upon turning on the current this streak will be broken
up into a series of regular waves, flatter or sharper according to the
speed with which the mirror is rocked. After carefully noting the wave
form, connect the receiver with the primary of an ordinary medical
coil, across the make-and-break, and note the marked difference in the
waves.
By replacing the receiver with a block of wood having a circular
depression, about 2 in. in diameter and ¹⁄₈ in deep, over which is
pasted a disk of smooth paper, the waves set up by the human voice may
be observed if the talking is done loudly and close to the disk. The
gas connection in this case is made from the back of the block, as
shown. As the several vowels are sounded, the characteristic wave from
each will be seen in the mirror. It is also interesting to increase the
pitch of the voice and note how much finer the waves become.
Homemade Screen-Door Check
[Illustration: Air-Cushion Check Made of a Bicycle Foot Pump for a
Screen Door]
An outside screen door causes considerable annoyance by slamming
when exposed to the wind, even if it is equipped with a bumper.
Nothing short of a door check will prevent this slamming, so I made
a very simple pneumatic check for our door, which works entirely
satisfactorily.
A discarded bicycle foot pump was procured and hinged to the casing
over the door, as shown in the illustration. The hinge was made as
follows: Two holes, A, were drilled through the stirrup, as near the
foot plate as possible; two ordinary screw eyes were turned into the
door casing at B, and two pins were passed through the holes in the
screw eyes and the holes in the stirrup. This allows the pump to swing
when the door is opened. The end of the plunger rod C is flattened and
a hole drilled through it to receive the pin at the top of the bracket
D, which is screwed firmly to the door.
The action of the pump when the door is opened can be readily
understood. The check is adjusted very easily by the machine screw E,
which controls the exhaust of the air when the door closes. The screw
is turned into the hole in the base of the pump where the pipe was
originally connected. One side of the end of the screw is slightly
flattened to allow a better adjustment. The pump can be quickly removed
by pulling out the upper pin in the hinge part.--Contributed by M. C.
Woodward, San Diego, California.
Bushing Made of Brass Tip on Cartridge Fuse
[Illustration]
In order to fasten a short piece of tubing in a socket which had become
worn to a funnel shape, without having to tap the socket and put in a
threaded bushing, it was fixed as follows: One of the brass tips on a
spent cartridge fuse was cut off and one of its ends filed tapering.
After trimming the fiber lining so that it would fit snugly over the
tube, it was driven home. The combination of brass and fiber adjusted
itself nicely to the shape of the worn socket and made a tight fit.
Opening Springs for a Tennis-Racket Clamp
[Illustration]
When putting a tennis racket in a press, it is difficult to keep the
press open to let the racket slip in. This can be easily remedied
by simply putting a small coil spring around each of the four
bolts, as shown. This will always open the press when the bolts are
loosened.--Contributed by W. X. Brodnax, Jr., Bethlehem, Pa.
Magic-Paper Fortune Telling
At outdoor carnivals and fairs there is usually a fortune teller who
uses a glass wand to cause one’s fortune to appear on a pad of paper.
Anyone may perform this trick by observing the following directions.
Instead of a glass wand use a long, narrow bottle of glass. Dip a new
pen into copper sulphate, diluted with six parts of water, and write
out the “fortune” on a piece of paper. The writing, when dry, will not
be visible. Next procure two corks to fit the bottle. An unprepared
cork is placed in the bottle and the other is pocketed, after hollowing
it out and inserting a small sponge soaked in pure ammonia.
The bottle with the cork is passed out for examination. The cork is
casually placed into the pocket after it is returned by a bystander. A
pad of paper is then proffered and an initial is placed on the pad of
paper by the person whose “fortune” is to be told. The paper is rolled
up, with the prepared side on the inside, and inserted into the glass
bottle. The fumes of ammonia will develop the mysterious message. The
trick can be repeated if several prepared sheets of paper are on hand,
and always proves of interest in a party of young persons.
Common Mistakes in Model Making
BY H. J. GRAY
Models made as a pastime or for exhibition purposes should represent
correctly the full-sized machine, not only as regards general design
but also in the proportioning of parts, the finish, and the choice of
materials. The satisfaction derived from the possession of a model is
greater when it is truly representative. Study and careful measurement
of the original are necessary to attain this result, and provide
valuable experience in the application of correct mechanical principles.
The most conspicuous, though perhaps not the most frequent, errors
made by amateurs are in the proportioning of the various parts. This
usually arises from insufficient study of the original machine, and is
often sufficiently glaring to attract the attention even of a casual
observer. The foundation or base of a model stationary engine, for
example, is often painted to resemble brickwork. This is correct,
provided the spaces are proportioned so as to represent bricks and not
three-ton slabs of granite.
Mistakes are made in the selection of pulley wheels, both as regards
the character and the size of the pulley that would be suitable for the
particular purpose.
The “cheese-head” or flat-head machine screw appears to have a peculiar
fascination for the model maker, judging from the frequency with which
it is misplaced. It is only necessary to consider what would happen
in a full-sized machine if such screws were used for making joints in
valve rods, cylinder covers, slide bars, for fixing bearing caps, and
the like, to realize how completely such a defect mars the appearance
of a model to a discriminating eye. Bolts, or, in some cases, studs and
nuts, should be used to give an appearance of correct workmanship.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 3
FIG. 2
FIG. 4
Details of Correct and Incorrect Practice in Model Making: Fig. 1,
Valve Rod Joined by “Cheese-Head” Screws, Wrong, and Joined by Joint
and Pin; Fig. 2, Bearing Cap Fixed with Flat-Head Machine Screws,
Wrong, and with Studs and Nuts; Fig. 3, Cylinder Cover Fixed with
Flat-Head Machine Screws, Wrong, and with Studs and Nuts; Fig. 4,
Representation of a Brick Foundation, Incorrectly on Side, and
Correctly on End]
Many novices make a serious mistake in the character of the finish
given to the various parts. This usually results through devoting
insufficient attention to the method of manufacture adopted in
engineering practice. Under the impression that a mottled appearance
gives an ornamental effect, they will make a shaft end with a scraped
finish. To the casual observer there would be nothing amiss, but a
mistake of this kind would offend the trained eye of an engineer,
because it is entirely unrepresentative. The object of scraping sliding
surfaces is to obtain a greater degree of flatness by removing small
inequalities. As the subsequent use of a file would only undo the work
of a scraper, the surface is permitted to remain mottled, as left by
the scraping tool. But the end of an engine shaft is not a sliding
surface, and in engineering practice would be finished in a lathe.
Nickelplating is often resorted to in order to produce a brilliant and
supposedly pleasing finish to the model of a casting. This is obviously
wrong, for the actual casting--which might weigh tons--would be
painted, and not electroplated.
Locomotive wheels or stacks of polished brass add to the appearance of
a model only in the eyes of the uninitiated. Few persons would care to
risk a railroad journey if the engine had brass wheels. Iron or steel
is the correct material to use. Brass is also often used instead of
iron for cylinders, connecting rods, and starting levers on models, or
for steam pipes, which should be made of steel or copper.
In certain cases there may be unusual difficulties in using the
correct material for a machine part made to a small scale. It is then
permissible to use other material, provided some attempt is made to
disguise the fact by means of an appropriate finish. Copperplating,
for example, may be used to disguise some other material, if the parts
should properly be made of copper. It is often convenient to make
a model boiler of brass. It should not be polished but bronzed, to
represent the iron or steel plates of a full-size boiler.
Take-Down Emergency Oars
[Illustration: When Knocked down the Oars Occupy Small Space in a Boat]
Owners of sail or power boats will find the take-down oars shown in the
sketch easily made and of value in an emergency far out of proportion
to the space occupied in a boat. A pair of ordinary oars was cut as
shown, and pipe fittings were attached to the ends to form a detachable
joint. When knocked down the oars may be stored in a seat cupboard, or
other convenient place.--Contributed by H. E. Ward, Kent, Wash.
How to Make Propeller Blades Quickly
Requiring a number of propeller blades for use in making models of
windmills, and other constructions, I found that I could save much time
and obtain a satisfactory set of propeller blades by using ordinary
shoehorns of the same size. The small ends of the horns were flattened
out so that they could be fastened to pieces of wood for bearings, and
then hammered to the proper shape for cutting the air, or receiving the
force of the wind.
Bench Stop
[Illustration]
Serviceable bench stops may be made by grooving pieces of maple, or
other close-grained, hard wood and fitting strips of clock spring into
them, as shown in the sketch. The pieces must fit the holes in the
bench top snugly, and the spring will then prevent them from slipping
out. The end of the spring fastened to the stop should be annealed so
that a hole for the screw may be drilled into it readily.--Contributed
by Stanley Mythaler, Spring Valley, Minn.
How to Make a Good Putty
To make a good putty the following formula should be used: Mix equal
parts of firmly ground whiting and white lead with enough linseed oil
to make a thick liquid; add enough commercial putty to this to make the
consistency of regular putty. This putty will not crack or crumble, and
it costs very little to make. If desired, the commercial putty may be
left out and enough whiting added to take up the liquid. The life of
this putty is four times greater than a commercial putty.--Contributed
by L. E. Fetter, Portsmouth, N. H.
Cupboard for Kitchen Utensils
[Illustration]
The illustration shows a style of a cupboard in which kitchen utensils
can be kept in an orderly manner without taking up a great deal of
space. The cupboard is tall and narrow, and the interior face of each
side is scored at even intervals with saw cuts, ¹⁄₄ in. deep. In the
grooves are placed shelves, which are merely squares of galvanized
iron. By placing the shelf in the proper grooves the space is adapted
to the size of the utensil. The small floor space occupied allows
the cupboard to be placed in the part of the kitchen that is most
convenient.
A Diminishing Card Trick
[Illustration: FIG. 2
FIG. 1
FIG. 3
Reducing the Size of a Playing Card While Holding It in One Hand]
A clever diminishing card trick may be played with a piece of paper
made up as shown in the illustration. Show the audience the whole card,
Fig. 1, then fold it halfway and show again, Fig. 2, then again, Fig.
3. If this is done quickly it will not be noticed. A piece of paper
is used the size of a regular playing card, and an ace is made on one
side. When it is folded over one side of the reduced size is made to
show the same ace, then another fold is made and the smaller ace is
made.--Contributed by Louis Waherer, Tiffin, Ohio.
Table Sockets for Electrical Heating Apparatus
[Illustration: The Extra and Narrow Table Leaf Carries the Electric
Sockets for the Cooking Apparatus]
The usual method of running a wire from a chandelier or wall bracket to
a heating device on the dining-room table is inconvenient as well as
unsightly. This I overcome by making a special narrow leaf to put in
the extension top into which sockets are set flush for extension wires.
These are connected to a floor socket, or a line can be run under the
carpet or rug.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.
Dressing for Fishline
A quick-drying dressing for fishlines may be prepared as follows: Mix
equal parts of boiled linseed oil and gold sizing; apply this to the
line in a moderately thick coat. Dressing which will not dry as rapidly
but which will resist the water as well is made by melting together
4 parts of paraffin and 1 part of resin. Melt the paraffin in a deep
metal vessel over a small fire, and add the resin after the paraffin
has dissolved. Care must be taken not to permit the fire to come into
contact with the mixture. Allow it to cool slightly and then coil the
line in the vessel. Draw it through a piece of wet sponge held between
the fingers. This will cool the mixture rapidly and the line may then
be stretched and polished with a wet rag.--Contributed by A. E. Tetu,
Ottawa, Canada.
Utensil Rack for Camp Fire
[Illustration: Iron Pipes Held by Pointed Steel Rods Provide a Simple
and Satisfactory Support for Cooking Utensils in the Camp]
A compact, simple device for holding cooking utensils over a camp fire
is shown in the sketch. It may be collapsed into a small bundle and
is of light weight, factors which are important in camping equipment.
The device consists of two sections of pipe, A, supported on rods, B,
having eyes bent at their upper ends. The lower end of the supports is
pointed and may be driven into the ground so as to spread the pipes
more at one end than at the other, thus providing for large as well as
small utensils.
Wheelbarrow as Tennis-Court Marker
[Illustration: Tennis Courts may be Laid Out Quickly by the Use of a
Wheelbarrow to Which a Can Containing a Thin Lime Mixture has been
Fixed, as Shown]
Many home tennis courts are not provided with a marker, and the use
of a wheelbarrow for this purpose has been found convenient. A can
provided with hooks at its upper edge was attached to the front of the
wheelbarrow, as shown in the sketch, and the lime mixture, very thin,
poured into it. Holes were made at the lower edge of the can so that
the liquid ran onto the wheel and was transferred to the court. The
holes must be made large enough so that they will not clog quickly,
and the mixture must be very thin. It is easy to cover the outline
several times if necessary. Hence, to use a thin mixture will be found
economical, rather than to waste time removing sediment from the spout.
Retouching Negatives for Printing
Portraits taken out of doors sometimes show unusually heavy shadows
under the eyebrows and chin. The printing of these through the
negatives may be altered by applying a little red or blue color on
the glass side of the negative. Stippling the surface by contact with
the texture of the skin also aids in removing the heaviness of such
shadows.
Mat varnish, containing a small amount of iodine dissolved in it, and
applied to the glass side of a negative, will cause much lighter prints
than if the negative is permitted to remain with heavy shadows. The
varnish will dry quickly, and it may then be scraped off carefully or
removed with benzole from the parts of the negative which are not to be
lightened. Care must be taken in scraping away the varnish in order to
prevent scratches.
Hand-Operated Whirling Fan
The whirling fan illustrated is more convenient than a fan of the
ordinary type, and may be made by a boy of only moderate mechanical
skill. The materials necessary for its construction are easily
available in the home. The sketch at the center shows the completed
fan, and the smaller sketch at the right illustrates the method of
operation. The details of construction are shown in the working
drawings.
[Illustration: The Whirling Fan Is Superior to One of the Ordinary
Variety and may be Made at Home of Materials Readily Available. The
Small Sketch at the Right Shows the Method of Operation, and the
Details of Construction are Shown in the Larger Sketch and in the
Working Drawings]
The wing of the fan is cut from a sheet of Bristol board, and is 6 in.
long and 5¹⁄₂ in. wide. It is formed by gluing two pieces together, the
upper end of the driving shaft being glued into place at the same time.
The small sketch at the left shows the size and shape of the piece of
wood into which the driving shaft is fastened at its upper end.
The driving rod, shown at the right of the larger sketch, is ¹⁄₈ in. in
diameter and 9¹⁄₂ in. long. The flattened portions near the upper end
are drilled to receive the ends of the cords which wind and unwind on
the shaft at the top of the handles. A brace of similar wire is fixed
near the middle of the handles so that they pivot on its ends when the
lower ends of the handles are pressed together, as shown in the sketch
at the right. The handles are of wood, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, ¹⁄₂ in. wide, an
6¹⁄₂ in. long. Their ends are rounded and slight notches are cut into
the corners near the ends, to provide for the tying of the cords.
A wide rubber band, slipped over the handles near their upper ends,
causes them to close at the top, and when the fan is in use this will
reverse the rotation of the fan. It is necessary only to squeeze the
handles inward, and the reverse action is repeated.
Photographing Electric Sparks
Electric sparks may be photographed with simple equipment, and the
process offers a diversion from the common subjects for photography.
The materials necessary are a spark coil and current source, a
photographic plate, facilities for developing it, and a sheet of tin
foil. The illustration shows a typical photograph of an electric spark,
and the variety possible is unlimited.
[Illustration]
The process, which must be performed in a dark room with a ruby light,
is as follows: Over the mouth of a small glass bottle, partly filled
with talcum powder, tie a piece of cheesecloth, to act as a sieve.
Arrange the material on a table, the sheet of tin foil lying flat, and
a photographic plate on top of it, coated side upward.
Spread a thin layer of the powder on the plate, through the sieve.
Attach a needle to an electric wire and fix the other end of the wire
to one of the secondary posts of the spark coil. Attach a second wire
to the other post of the spark coil and to the sheet of tin foil. Care
must be taken in handling the needle that only the insulated portion,
where it is joined to the wire, comes in contact with the fingers, or a
shock may result. Place the point of the needle near the middle of the
plate and turn on the current, permitting it to produce a spark of not
more than one second’s duration. If the exposure is longer than that
the result will not be satisfactory. Wipe off the powder and develop
the plate. If care has been taken in the process, a photograph similar
to the one shown in the illustration will result.
* * * * *
¶Shoulder hooks fixed about a shop, so that handsaws may be placed on
them by the handle, will save damage to saws.
Cannon-Shell Dinner Bell
Being called to dinner by the stirring peal of a bell made of a cannon
shell is a novelty in use in Toronto. The bell shown in the sketch was
made of a 3-in. brass shell, and when struck with a gavel gives out
tones that penetrate throughout a large house.
[Illustration: Its Tones Penetrate a Large House]
The cap piece was removed at A, and an eyebolt fastened in place with
a nut on each side. The gong was suspended from a wall bracket made of
a band of brass fastened to the wall.--Contributed by James B. Noble,
Toronto, Canada.
Use for Old Magazines
Magazines are often thrown away because of the rapidity with which they
accumulate. Since most readers care to save only certain articles, a
good plan is to tear the magazines apart, removing the desired articles
and binding them in a separate volume. If this is carefully and
systematically done, and an index prepared, the volume will be of value
and interest.
Flatiron Polisher
Housewives, and others who appreciate the need for a smooth surface on
a flatiron, will find the polisher shown in the sketch a convenient aid
in keeping their irons in proper shape.
A wooden block, about 4 in. wide and 6 in. long, was fitted with five
thin patches of beeswax as shown in the upper sketch. The holes bored
into the wood were made large enough to fit the wax, which may be
purchased in large thimble-shaped pieces. A double layer of linen, or
other strong cloth, was fitted over the side having the wax imbedded in
it, and a piece of fine emery cloth was folded over the other side of
the block. A band of sheet iron riveted together so as to fit snugly
over the edges holds the cloth and emery cloth in place.
[Illustration]
The flatiron may be polished by rubbing it on the emery-cloth side of
the block and waxed slightly by rubbing it over the cloth side.
Clothespin-Basket Hook
[Illustration]
To conveniently support a clothespin basket along the line on which the
clothes are being hung, a wire support can be provided, bent to form a
hook at both ends and the center shaped into a V-bend. With the basket
supported by the two ends, the wire can be slid along the clothesline
as required.--Contributed by N. R. Moore, Cherokee, Iowa.
* * * * *
¶Varnishing should as a rule be done in a room having a temperature
of 80° F., and in some instances 15° higher is desirable.
Leather Tire Patch
A leather patch fixed over a tire puncture with shellac will be found
to give satisfaction and may be attached easily. Cut the patch somewhat
larger than the puncture and thin out its edges with a knife. Melt
flakes of shellac in a flame, fusing them, and rub the hot mixture on
the patch and tire, smoothing it down quickly. Such a patch may be
placed over a plug and will aid in holding it in place.--Contributed by
Robert C. Knox, Petersburg, Fla.
A Perpetual Whirligig
Camphor is the motive power which drives the device shown in the
illustration, and it will cause the whirligig to revolve for several
days, or until the camphor is consumed.
[Illustration]
The whirligig is made of a piece of cork, ¹⁄₂ in. square, with a needle
stuck into each of its four sides. Smaller pieces of cork, to which
pieces of camphor have been fixed by means of sealing wax, are attached
to the ends of the needles. Care should be taken to keep the needles
and cork free from oil or grease, as this will retard their movement.
As soon as the device is placed in a dish of water it will start
whirling and continue to do so as long as motive power is supplied. A
small flag or other ornament may be attached to the center cork.
Testing and Caring for Files
To test a file hold it so that the light will be reflected sharply from
the teeth and observe whether their edges are flattened and appear
as white lines. If so, the file is dull and should be recut if of
considerable size and value.
Files should not be thrown into drawers and mixed with other tools,
but should be carefully set in racks or drawers for the purpose. A
mechanic would not throw a straightedge into a drawer containing other
tools, and a file should be given similar consideration, as every nick
in the teeth impairs the efficiency of the file.
Files may be sharpened by dipping them into sulphuric acid, but care
must be taken not to permit the acid to come into contact with one’s
clothes or person. Water is used to wash off the acid.
Files should be provided with individual handles. This prevents injury
to the hand of the worker and aids in the proper use of the file.
Handles should be carefully fitted and be made of a size proportionate
to the file. In removing a handle from a file, strike the handle at the
end nearest the file, by sliding a piece of hard wood along the surface
of the file, as the blow is struck with it. Do not use another file or
metal object in thus removing a handle, as it will injure the latter.
Catching Large Fish with a Teaspoon
Teaspoons may be made into alluring trolling spoon hooks, of a size
suitable for catching large fish, by the addition of hooks, as shown in
the sketch.
Drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes near the end of the spoon handle, the tip of the
bowl, and near the handle of the latter.
Procure three sets of triple hooks, a line swivel, and a strip of lead,
about 1 in. long. Rivet one end of the swivel and the loop of one of
the triple hooks into the hole of the handle. Wire the lower end of
this triple hook to the handle and with the same piece of copper wire
secure a second triple hook at the thin part of the handle. Drill a
hole through the lead strip and rivet it, together with a third triple
hook, into the upper hole of the bowl. Fix the lower end of this hook
by binding it with copper wire, through the hole near the tip of the
bowl.
[Illustration: Once a Fish has Struck This Bait, It Is Seldom Able to
Escape]
This hook has been tested in the waters of Puget Sound and is a deadly
lure for rock cod, and other fish weighing up to 12 lb. The famous
barracuda and rock bass of the Catalina Islands have also been caught
with it. By permitting the lure to sink to the bottom and bringing it
up a yard or two with a quick jerk, it acts as a “jig” bait. It may
also be used in trolling. Once a fish has struck, it is seldom able to
escape.--Contributed by O. P. Avery, Los Angeles, Cal.
An Easily Made Counter
[Illustration: An Accurate Account can be Kept of Parts or Score for
Any Game by Pulling the Strips]
From unruled paper cut a piece, as shown at A in the sketch, and make
slits parallel and evenly spaced with a sharp knife. Also cut six
strips, similar to the one shown at B, to fit the slits cut in A. The
strips are numbered as shown and inserted on the under side of A, and
by pulling the strips as shown, one can count up the number of parts or
keep tally on any game. By making more slits and using more strips very
large numbers can be recorded.
* * * * *
¶Be sure to keep the screw and nut in the jaws of a drill chuck clean
and well oiled, to prevent broken screws.
To Uncork a Bottle with a String
A convenient method of uncorking a bottle, from which liquid is to be
poured frequently, is to thread a strong string or cord through the
cork, tying it in a loop, which remains at the opening of the bottle.
The cork may be removed easily by drawing on the string. This is more
satisfactory than the use of a corkscrew, as the latter frequently
tears the cork.--Lee A. Collins, Louisville, Ky.
Wood Turning on an Emery Grinder
[Illustration: The Hand Emery Grinder of the Home Workshop Used as a
Substitute for a Lathe]
The experimenter often requires small turned-wood pulleys, circular
bases for switches, etc. To produce these it is not necessary to
have recourse to a wood lathe, if a good emery grinder is at hand.
Simply clamp the grinder firmly to the workbench, remove the grinding
wheel, and fasten on a block to serve as a faceplate. This may be
held in place by the nut that holds the wheel and should be trued
up with a small chisel when in place. A tool rest may be improvised
by temporarily nailing one or more blocks of wood to the bench. The
article desired should be first roughed out with a saw and then
fastened to the faceplate with screws or brads, after which the actual
wood turning will require very little time.
Three Bathroom Kinks
The devices for the bathroom illustrated may be made easily and
contribute to the comfort, convenience, and, in the case of the fixed
window pole, to the safety of the room. A wall curtain, A, placed on
the towel rod, or hung on the wall beside the washbasin, is especially
convenient in keeping the walls unsoiled by children who make use of
the room and are likely to splash suds while washing. Double roller
shades on the window, as at B and C, give light and privacy as well.
[Illustration: The Fixed Window Pole Is an Inducement to Ventilation;
the Curtain Protects the Wall, and the Lower Shade Gives Light with
Privacy]
Poor ventilation in bathrooms occasionally causes asphyxiation and
is often a menace. The permanent fixing of the window pole D makes
it convenient to open the window, which operation is often neglected
through fear of drafts from the lower sash and the lack of a pole. Fig.
2 shows the top of the pole P, provided with a screw eye, S, which is
fastened to a metal strip, H.--D. L. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.
Prevents Soiling Goods after Oiling Sewing Machine
To prevent a sewing machine that has been oiled from soiling the
material, the following is a good method: Tie a small piece of ribbon
or cotton string around the needle bar near the point at which it grips
the needle.
[Illustration: A Pigeon House
By Robert Baker]
Pigeon houses need not be eyesores, as is often the case, but may
be made to harmonize with the surroundings, adding beauty to a dull
spot, and even making the grounds of a home more attractive. The house
described will accommodate 20 pigeons, and additional stories of the
same type may be added to provide for more. Nearly all of the wood
necessary may be obtained from boxes, and the other materials are also
readily available at small cost. The construction is such that a boy
handy with ordinary carpentry tools may undertake it successfully.
The house is constructed in general on principles used in buildings,
having a framed gable roof, rough-boarded and shingled. The interior
arrangement is original, being based on the Indian swastika or
good-luck sign. While the construction is simple, it must be carried
out systematically. The process outlined also follows in general the
typical methods in building construction.
The foundation need not be considered, since the house rests upon
a post, and the construction thus begins with the lower story. The
floor and the ceiling are similar in construction, as shown in Fig.
1. In framing them into the lower story, as may be observed in Fig.
8, the cleats are placed below on the floor and above in the ceiling.
The construction is identical, however. The cleats are fastened to
the boards with screws, although nails, clinched carefully, may be
used. The 4-in. hole at the center should be made accurately, so as
to fit the shoulder portion at the top of the post, shown in Fig. 2.
The latter may be cut of a length to suit; about 9 ft. will be found
convenient. The notches in the top of the post are to fit the ridge
pole and center rafters of the roof frame, as shown in Fig. 10. They
should not be made until the house is ready for the roof boards.
The pieces for the compartments, as arranged on the floor in Fig. 3,
are made next. Figs. 4 and 5 show the detailed sizes of these pieces,
of which four each must be made. The sizes shown must be followed
exactly, as they are designed to give the proper space for entrances
and to fit around the 4-in. square hole, through which the post is to
fit. The pieces marked A, B, and C, in Figs. 4 and 5, correspond to
those similarly marked in Fig. 3.
The pieces are nailed together to form the swastika in the following
manner:
Mark the pieces A, B, and C, as shown. Measure 4 in. from one end of
each piece marked A, and square a pencil line across, 4 in. from the
end. Arrange the pieces in pairs. Place one end of one piece against
the side of the other piece in the pair, so that the pencil line is
even with the end, permitting the 4-in. portion to project. Nail both
pairs in this position. Then fit the two parts together to form a 4-in.
square in the center, as shown in Fig. 3.
Fit the pieces C to the pieces B at an angle, as shown in Fig. 3,
trimming off the projecting corners where the pieces are joined. Nail
them together, and they are ready to be fixed to the end of the pieces
A, already nailed. By nailing the joined pieces B and C to the end of
the pieces A, as shown in Fig. 3, the swastika is completed. Fix it
into place, with the center hole exactly over the square hole in the
floor, by means of nails or screws driven through the floor.
Two small strips must now be nailed to the floor at each side of the
swastika. They should be exactly 4¹⁄₂ in. long, and are to hold the
slides, Fig. 9, which shut off the various compartments. The slides are
shown hanging by chains in the headpiece of this article, and are shown
in place in Fig. 8.
Fix the ceiling into place in the same manner, being careful that the
square holes fit together, and that the cleats are on the upper side.
Turn the construction over and fix into place the small strips for the
slides, as was done on the floor.
The fixed screens, Fig. 6, and the doors, Fig. 7, are constructed
similarly. They are built up of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, and vary in size to
fit their respective places in the framework. Observe that the fixed
screens are ¹⁄₄ in. higher than the doors, and that they are fastened
between the ceiling and floor, bracing them. The wire grating is
¹⁄₂-in. square mesh, and is fixed between the pieces of the doors and
the screens when they are built up.
The doors are shown secured by combination strap hinges, bent over
the baseboard. Plain butts may be used and the lower portion of the
hinge covered by the baseboard, a recess being cut to receive the part
covered. In the latter instance the doors should be fixed into place
immediately after the screens are set. Catches and chains may then be
placed on the doors. Next nail the baseboards into place. They are 2¹⁄₂
in. wide and may be mitered at the corners, or fitted together in a
square, or butt, joint. The latter joint may be nailed more readily.
The slides, shown in Fig. 9, may now be made and fitted into their
grooves. The handles are made of strips of band iron, drilled for
screws and bent into the proper shape. It is important that the slides
be constructed of three pieces, as shown, so that they will not warp
or curve from exposure. The main piece is cut 7³⁄₄ in. long, and the
strips, ¹⁄₂ in. square, are nailed on the ends.
The construction of the framing for the roof should next be taken up.
This probably requires more careful work than any other part of the
pigeon house, yet it is simple, as shown in Fig. 10. Note that the
rafters are set upon a frame, or plate as it is called, built up of
pieces 3 in. wide. It should be made ¹⁄₄ in. wider and longer on the
inside than the ceiling board, so as to fit snugly over it. The joints
at the corners are “halved” and nailed both ways. This gives a stronger
structure than butting them squarely and nailing them. The end rafters
should be fitted in before fixing the others. It is best to make a
diagram of the end of the roof framing on a sheet of paper, or a board,
and to fit the rafter joints in this way before cutting them. The
rafters are then nailed into place.
The “rough boards” to cover the rafters may now be nailed down. They
are spaced ¹⁄₂ in. apart so as to permit thorough drying, as is done
in larger buildings. They project 2 in. beyond the ends of the plate
frame, supporting the rafters. A ¹⁄₂-in. strip is nailed over the ends
to give a neat finish. The roof may be shingled, or covered with tar
paper, or any roofing material.
Nail a 1-in. strip under each end of the roof and nail the gable ends
into place. One gable end is provided with a door, as shown, and the
other has an opening fitted with a wire screen of the same size as the
door.
The gable story rests on the lower story, and the notches in the top of
the post should fit snugly to the ridge and center rafters, as shown in
Fig. 10. This will aid in supporting the house firmly. If additional
stories are added it would be well to place a post at each corner
of the house. The upper story may be removed for cleaning, or for
transporting the house.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
FIG. 5
FIG. 6
FIG. 7
FIG. 8
FIG. 10
The House Accommodates 20 Pigeons; Additional Stories may be Added.
Fig. 1, Floor and Ceiling; Fig. 3, Arrangement of Compartments; Fig.
8, Lower Story Assembled Ready for Roof Story; Fig. 10, Framing of the
Roof; Fig. 11, Side View, Showing Spacing of Roof Boards; Fig. 12, End
View, Showing Trim and Door on Gable End
FIG. 9
FIG. 11
FIG. 12]
The post should be sunk into the ground about 2¹⁄₂ ft. and set into
a concrete foundation, if convenient. This will insure a more nearly
permanent as well as a more rigid support. Care should be taken that
the post is set plumb and this can be accomplished if a plumb bob is
used. The post should be braced to keep it vertical, particularly if a
concrete foundation is poured and tamped around it.
The construction should be painted two coats, inside and out, of a
color to harmonize with buildings or other surroundings.
The cost of building the house shown in the illustration was $3.50 and
by using tar paper for the roof and discarded wire mesh, hinges, and
other fittings, this may be reduced considerably.
* * * * *
¶In matching molding into corners it is often difficult to make miter
joints. The molding may then be “coped” together by matching the end
of the piece to be joined to it with the curves or surface of the
molding. A coping saw is used in sawing the irregular end.
Roses Tinged Blue by Chemicals
[Illustration]
Roses may be colored without any detrimental effect by placing their
stems in a solution of 100 cubic centimeters of water, 2 grams of
saltpeter, and 2 grams of an aniline dye. A centerpiece of roses
colored to represent the national colors was made in this way and
proved very effective as a table decoration. A convenient way to color
the flowers is to place their stems in a test tube containing the
mixture.--Contributed by Chester Keene, Hoboken, N. J.
Making Photographic Trays
Serviceable trays for use in developing and printing photographs may be
made quickly of cardboard boxes of suitable sizes. Where one is unable
to transport readily a full photographic equipment these trays will
prove convenient as well as inexpensive. They are made as follows:
Procure boxes of proper sizes and see that they have no holes or
openings at the corners. Melt paraffin and pour it into the box,
permitting it to cover both outside and inside surfaces. If the
paraffin hardens too rapidly the box may be heated and the work
completed.--Contributed by Paul A. Baumeister, Flushing, N. Y.
Camp Lantern Made of a Tin Can
[Illustration]
Campers, and others who have need of an emergency lantern, may be
interested in the contrivance shown in the sketch, which was used
in preference to other lanterns and made quickly when no light was
at hand. It consists of an ordinary tin can, in the side of which
a candle has been fixed. A ring of holes was punched through the
metal around the candle and wires were placed at the opposite side
for a support. The glistening interior of the can reflects the light
admirably.--Contributed by F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.
* * * * *
¶Interior woodwork may be made proof against ordinary flame by
coating it with silicate of soda, known as water glass.
Sidecar for a Parcel-Delivery Bicycle
BY P. P. AVERY
Quick delivery of small packages within a two-mile radius can be
accomplished with a bicycle by a sturdy boy. An ordinary bicycle is
used, preferably one with coaster brake and mudguards. Iron braces, ¹⁄₄
by 1¹⁄₄ in., are shaped to make the framework, and the ends are looped
to fasten around the frame of the bicycle and the supporting fork of
the third wheel. This wheel is a bicycle front wheel with a fork.
A mudguard on the third wheel is desirable. Make the iron parts as
detailed, and fasten them into place. The body is made of ⁷⁄₈-in. wood,
preferably oak. The upper portion of the body is cut to receive the top
brace, which is not in the way in loading or unloading the packages.
Fasten the box with ¹⁄₄-in. carriage bolts, using a spring washer under
the nut wherever a joint is made between wood and iron. A canvas cover
can be cut to fit the top and secured at one end only, with three catch
knobs on the sides and corresponding eyelets in the canvas, keeping the
dust and rain from the interior of the body.
[Illustration: An Ordinary Strong Bicycle can be Made into a
Substantial Delivery Car by the Addition of a Body and a Third Wheel]
It is a good plan to stiffen the body with corner braces, using ¹⁄₈ by
³⁄₄-in. band iron. The floor of the body should be strongly fastened,
tongue-and-groove boards being used, and the side corners should be
fitted with iron braces at the bottom. The body may be extended farther
over the rear, if more loading space is required.
One coat of priming and one of paint finishes the box, and with the
name of the merchant on the front and rear, the whole makes a neat
advertising feature. Regarding the selection of a bicycle, since great
speed is not essential, the lower the gearing is, the easier it will be
to propel the load, and for ordinary work, where only small grades are
covered, a gear of about 65 will be found efficient.
Handy Use for Adhesive Tape
Adhesive tape is useful in the shop and for the home mechanic, for
many purposes: to mend broken handles temporarily; to bind up a cut
finger; to prevent a hammer or ax handle from slipping in the hands,
by applying tape around the handle; for making a ferrule for an awl,
chisel, etc.; around the nail set it will keep that tool from jarring
the hand; around a lead pencil in the vest pocket as a guard.
A Toy Machine Gun That Fires Wooden Bullets
[Illustration]
For use in the mimic battles which most boys like to stage in this
war time, an interesting mechanical toy that a boy can easily make
of materials picked up in the workshop, is a machine gun having a
magazine for wooden bullets, and which can be made as a single or a
double-barrel gun. The construction of the single-barrel arrangement
is detailed in the sketch and the modification for a double-barrel gun
is shown in the smaller diagram. It is a duplicate of the first type,
suitably mounted as shown. The gun is fired by turning the crank on the
wheel and the bullets can be quickly replaced in the magazine at the
top.
[Illustration: The Machine Gun is Fired by Turning the Crank at the
Wheel, the Pins on the Latter Drawing Back the Hammer, Which is Hooked
Up with a Rubber Band]
The support for the gun is made of wood and braced strongly at the
base. The gun proper is set into the top of the vertical piece, as
shown, and the magazine, which is bent from a piece of tin to the shape
detailed in the sectional view, fits on top of the breach of the gun.
The hammer, which drives the bullets, is made of a piece of stiff wire
bent to the shape shown. The lower curved end is connected to a small
nail set on a block at the shaft of the wheel. To fire the gun, the
hammer is drawn back by contact with the small nails set into the side
of the wheel. As the wheel is turned, the nails grip the hammer and
then suddenly release it, driving out the lowest bullet each time. The
bullets are piled in the magazine, as shown in the detailed view at the
right, where the rear view of the gun barrel is indicated.--Edward R.
Smith, Walla Walla, Washington.
Using Plate Holder as Printing Frame
A cumbersome part of a commercial photographer’s equipment when “on
the road” is his set of printing frames. Amateur photographers who
have cameras using plates of more than one size find these frames
an expensive part of their outfits. A method that is practical and
inexpensive for these requirements in many cases, is as follows: Place
the sensitized paper in the plate holder with the emulsion side up.
Then put the plate in the holder in the same way as if about to expose
it in a camera, but with the emulsion side down, so that the sensitized
side of the paper and the emulsion side of the plate are in contact.
The paper and plate are thus held in close contact without the use of
springs, as in the regular printing frames. The plate and paper can
be removed by pressing the spring catch at the bottom of the holder,
and the plate is not easily moved while in place.--Francis W. Clinton,
Brooklyn, New York.
* * * * *
¶Leaks in garden hose may be repaired by wrapping several layers of
adhesive tape over the break, lapping the edges carefully.
Wire Clips Weight Paper in Typewriter
Three wire paper clips linked together make a good weight for
typewriter sheets that keep rolling or blowing back over the carriage,
into the operator’s way, in a breezy office or where a fan is not
properly stationed. They may be quickly applied to the end of the
sheet, or batch of paper and carbon sheets, and removed as easily,
saving time and annoyance.--H. P. Roy, Kansas City, Mo.
Chain Weight Prevents Whipping of Flag
A length of chain, sewed into a hem at the lower edge of a flag makes
an inconspicuous and effective weight to prevent whipping of a flag
suspended from a horizontal staff. A piece of cord can be threaded
through the links of a chain to prevent it from rattling, if necessary.
Poultry-Fence Construction Economical of Netting
[Illustration]
Not wanting to put a high poultry netting on my fence to keep my
poultry at home, I devised the method shown, and was thus enabled to
use 24-in. wire instead of 48-in., thereby effecting a saving, as well
as not marring the appearance of the fence. Chickens will not attempt
to fly over this wire but once or twice, as they endeavor to alight
on the pickets of the fence instead of the wire, and consequently are
thrown back by striking the wire. The wire should be supported at each
post, as shown in the sketch.--Roy H. Poston, Flat River, Mo.
A Fort Built of Snow Blocks Made in Box Form
[Illustration: The Making of the Snow-Block Fort Is Nearly as Much Fun
as Daring the Enemy to Come and Capture It or Capturing the Enemy’s
Barricade]
[Illustration]
What boy does not enjoy a regular snowball fight--a battle, in
fact--especially when he has a fort of his own building to defend,
and his friends have one which he wants to capture? A way to build a
snow fort that will not crumble easily when the enemy charges it is
to pack the snow into a box form and build the structure of the snow
blocks, as shown in the photograph. Portholes can be provided and when
the snow melts slightly, and freezes again, a very solid wall results.
The form for the block, as detailed in the sketch, is made of a box,
arranged so that it is hinged at one corner and has a catch at the
corner diagonally opposite. The form is set on a wooden board and when
the snow is packed in solidly, the catch is opened and the form lifted
away from the block. It is then carried into position and another block
made on the same board. Several boards are handy in making the block
quickly.--H. S., Chicago, Ill.
* * * * *
¶In applying varnish over an old wood surface, or on new wood that
has become soiled, care should be taken to remove all traces of oil
or grease with benzine.
Model Steam Tractor Made by Boy
[Illustration: This Model Steam Tractor Is 28 Inches Long and Drives
Itself, Wood and Coal being Used as Fuel]
Boys, and others who like to make models, may be interested in a small
steam tractor I designed and built of scrap materials around the farm
shop. I used only the ordinary tools on hand in such a place. The steam
engine and tractor run smoothly, and the engine propels the tractor
just like a large machine of this kind. The tractor is 28 in. long and
14 in. high, and the boiler holds 1¹⁄₄ gal. The bore of the cylinder
is ⁷⁄₈ in. and its stroke 1³⁄₄ in. It was made from an old iron window
weight. I use wood and coal to fire the boiler, and steam can be got up
in a few minutes.--Albert H. Bennington, Park River, N. D.
Toboggan Made of Old Buggy Shafts
[Illustration: This Toboggan with Stout Runners Made from Buggy Shafts
can be Used like One of the Ordinary Type, but Works Best on Frozen
Snow]
A method of making a strong toboggan sled by nailing a suitable bottom
over sections cut from old buggy shafts, as shown in the sketch, can
be adapted easily for use with poles of about the same size. They can
be steamed and bent at the ends and the construction otherwise made as
shown. The shafts were cut to the length indicated, the curved front
end being sawed off. The bottom was carried up around the curved rear
end, and a strong bracing strip was bolted across them. One-half-inch
rope with leather loops provided handholds, and was also used as a
brace at each side of the front of the sled. Twisted wire may also be
used for this purpose. Cushions of the usual type can easily be made
for the toboggan.
Bicycles Driven as Three-Wheel Tandem after Breakdown
[Illustration: When the Front Wheel of One of the Bicycles Broke Down,
They were Rigged into a Tandem, and a Distance of Five Miles to Town
was Covered]
On a bicycle trip, when about five miles from town, the front axle of
my partner’s bicycle broke, and as neither of us wanted to walk, we
had to find some way of getting us both home. We removed the front
wheel from one of the bicycles, and set the front fork on the rear axle
of the undamaged machine, as shown in the sketch. The axle was just
long enough so that the sides of the fork could be bolted securely.
By careful riding we made the distance to town with only the slight
inconvenience of my partner having to carry the extra wheel on his
back--J. F. G., Mountain Grove, Mo.
* * * * *
¶Do not touch the inner surface of a tent or shelter in the rain, as
the water will drip from the spot touched.
Test Exposures for Bromide Enlargements
To avoid expensive waste of paper in making large bromide enlargements
the following device is useful: Cut an oblong sheet of stiff cardboard,
5¹⁄₄ by 4 in., with a central opening, measuring 3³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₂ in. Along
the lower edge of the central opening mark off five spaces of ³⁄₄ in.
each, and number them from 1 to 5. Glue a strip of cardboard, 1 in.
wide, at the top and the bottom of the oblong, on the back. Now glue
a second strip of cardboard over each of those just attached, making
the second strips slightly wider to form grooves similar to those in a
sliding-top box.
Cut a piece of cardboard, wide enough to slide easily in these grooves,
and about 7 in. long. In the center of it, cut an opening, 1¹⁄₂ in.
long and ³⁄₄ in. wide, with the longer dimension extending across the
strip. By inserting this slide into the grooves, the opening in it may
be shifted to correspond to any of the five ³⁄₄-in. indications at the
lower edge of the opening in the oblong frame.
Focus the enlargement on the easel and put the cap on the lens. Then
pin a 1¹⁄₂-in. strip of bromide paper where a good range of detail
will fall upon it. Pin the oblong card over the bromide strip and make
five successive exposures, of increasing duration, by sliding the
strip so that its opening is opposite the number indications on the
oblong. Note the particulars of exposure at the time and later develop
the strip of bromide paper. Suppose the exposures were of 8, 16, 24,
32, and 40 seconds’ duration, and upon development it was found that
the first and second exposures were much underexposed and that the
fifth was overexposed; the third and fourth being only slightly under
and overexposed, respectively. Then the mean of these two, that is 24
plus 32 divided by 2, or 28 seconds, will be approximately the correct
exposure. The use of this device will effect a considerable saving.--H.
J. Gray, Lewes, Sussex, England.
Scale on Vaulting Pole Indicates Points of Grip
[Illustration: Indications on the Vaulting Pole Aid the Athlete in
Finding the Proper Grip]
Unnecessary delay in running off the pole-vaulting events at athletic
meets is caused by the repeated testing of vaulters for the proper
height at which to grip the vaulting pole. This was readily overcome
by marking intervals of 1 ft. on the upper end of the vaulting poles.
Vaulters judge the proper height once and thereafter may easily take
the same grip with the aid of the indications on the pole.--A. B.
Wegener, Madison, N. J.
Current of Canal Raises Irrigation Water
[Illustration: The Current of the Canal Causes the Wheel to Revolve,
Carrying the Water to the Trough]
The current of a canal was utilized to raise water for irrigation
purposes, and other uses, by means of the homemade device shown in the
illustration. A large-size buggy wheel was set on an old axle, and
extensions were fixed to eight of the spokes. Paddles, 9 by 18 in.
in size, were secured to the extensions, and uniform-size tin cans
were fixed to the paddles, as shown. The current revolved the wheel,
carrying the loaded buckets upward, and the water was thus poured from
them into a wide trough braced on the platform. A flume led the water
to the irrigation ditches, and pipes were used to conduct some of it to
the ranch house for general purposes. When the water is not desired for
useful purposes the trough is withdrawn and the water drops into the
canal.--Joseph Gray, Heber, Calif.
Protecting an Air Pump against Denting
[Illustration: Denting of Tire Pumps is Prevented by the Use of a Case
Like That Shown]
The brass cylinders of many tire pumps are made of thin metal, and a
slight blow may dent them. Such injuries interfere with the action
of the plunger, making the pump almost useless. A case which will
afford protection to the pump is shown in the sketch. It was made of
two strips of wood cored out on the inner sides to fit the pump and
provided with small hinges and hooks, to lock it into place.
A Feather as an X-Ray Lens
The outline of the bones in the hand may be seen by holding it before
a strong light and looking through a lens made of a piece cut from the
tip of a feather. The sketch shows such a lens, which is mounted in a
small piece of cardboard that may be carried in the pocket, and which
affords diversion wherever exhibited.
[Illustration]
The device is made as follows: Procure a soft white feather from a
fowl, and cut off the tip as indicated in the upper sketch. Cut a
piece of cardboard, about 2 in. wide and 6 in. long. Fold it to form a
folder, 3 in. long, and cut a hole, ¹⁄₄ in. in diameter, through both
parts of it. Glue the tip of the feather between the folder at the
hole, taking care that the fibers lie flat and that no rib is exposed.
Glue the edges of the folder, and the device is ready for use. Hold the
hand, or other object, to be examined about 15 in. from the lens, and
place the latter close to the eye. Looking through the hole toward an
electric, or other strong, light, it will be observed that the bones of
the hand, for example, may be seen clearly. They will be outlined with
a band of varicolored light. A frosted globe is better than one which
exposes a filament.--Leander L. Droesch, Chickasaw, Ohio.
* * * * *
¶A safety-razor blade, fitted into a wooden handle, provides a
convenient tool for ripping seams and cutting cardboard.
Guard Saves Wear on Vest
Bookkeepers and others who work close to a desk nearly all day find
that unusual wear results on the front of the vest, forcing them to
discard their suits sooner than would otherwise be necessary. By
providing a strip of cloth of a color to match the goods of which the
suit is made and buttoning it across the front of the vest from the
lower to the upper button this wear is prevented.--J. A. McGrath,
Hancock, Michigan.
Bilge Water Siphoned Through Water-Jacket Outlet
[Illustration: The Small Pipe Fixed to the Water-Jacket Outlet Siphons
the Bilge Water from the Bottom of the Motorboat]
The sketch shows a simple method of removing the bilge water from a
motorboat automatically while the engine is in operation. A small pipe
is fitted into the outlet from the water jacket, as shown at A, and
extended to the bottom of the boat where the bilge water accumulates.
A sack is fixed over the end of the pipe to prevent particles of dirt
from entering the pipe. The water passing out of the water-jacket
outlet causes a siphoning action in the small pipe, and the bilge water
is drawn up and passes out of the larger outlet. At the left, in dotted
outline, is shown a method of removing the bilge water by permitting
it to be drawn up into the pump which supplies the water to the
water-jacket. This method is sometimes used, but is satisfactory only
when the bilge water can be kept clean, which is difficult.--Francis B.
Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.
A Hinged Window Box
[Illustration: The Flower Box is Arranged to Swing Away from the Window
so That It will Not Be in the Way]
A window box arranged to rest in a hinged bracket on the outside of a
window, as shown in the sketch, has advantages over the usual method
of fixing the box permanently. The box is separate from the supporting
frame and may be removed from it. The frame is attached to the window
casing by means of T-hinges and is strongly supported by a bracket.
When it is desired to clean the window, the device may be swung around
and out of the way. This feature is also desirable when it is raining,
for the flowers in the box may be watered conveniently in this way.--L.
J. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.
Denatured Alcohol to Start Gasoline Stove
Considerable smoke and dirt is caused by the burning of gasoline used
to generate gas in starting a gasoline stove. This may be eliminated
by keeping an oilcan filled with denatured alcohol convenient to the
stove, and filling the starting pan with alcohol instead of gasoline.
The spout of the oilcan is also convenient in pouring only a small
quantity into the pan.--Spencer A. Pease, Chicago, Ill.
* * * * *
¶A strip of adhesive tape, fixed to the lower side of a straightedge
used for cutting glass, will prevent it slipping.
Playing-Card Holder
[Illustration]
While disabled with a broken arm and being anxious to play cards for
diversion, I was at a loss to hold my “hand.” I soon devised the
card holder shown in the sketch, and found no difficulty keeping in
the game. It is made of a strip of wood provided with a groove near
the front edge, into which the cards are inserted.--W. E. Thomae,
Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
Cocoanut-Shell Trays
[Illustration]
Trays for holding matches, or other articles, may be made of cocoanut
shells by cutting them to appropriate sizes and smoothing the surface
to a polish. The tray shown in the sketch was made in this manner, as
were a number of match trays which were fitted with small sheet-metal
dishes. The outside of the shell is first scraped as smooth as
possible, sandpapered, and then oil-polished, producing a beautiful
finish.--John F. Long, Springfield, Mo.
Nail Carrier Made of Cans
[Illustration]
Four ordinary tin cans, fastened to a wooden block as shown in the
illustration, make a serviceable and practical carrier for nails,
staples, or similar materials, used in making repairs on the farm or
in the shop. The tops of the cans are cut out carefully and the edges
smoothed off so as not to injure the hand in removing nails from them.
The tops are cut to the shape shown, as attached to the block and
provided with a handle, making it convenient to carry the contrivance.
If cans are used having covers which may be pried off, the central
block should be extended and the handle nailed directly to it.--Dale R.
Van Horn, North Loup, Neb.
Stopping Rattle in Motorcycle Stand
[Illustration]
Annoyance while traveling over rough roads by the rattling of the rear
stand on a motorcycle may be overcome by taping the part of the brace
which hooks into a catch at the end of the rear mud guard. The sketch
shows a view of the lower portion of the rear wheel with the stand
raised and in place in the catch.
Novel Covered Box for Index Trays
[Illustration]
The box shown in the sketch is novel in that it provides a nonsliding
cover with a minimum of wood for the construction and the use of no
extra space for the lid. Where index, or other boxes must be provided
in considerable numbers, or stored in a limited space, the saving will
be worth while. Index cards, or other material, may fill the box to
its upper level without hindering the availability of the cover. The
small portions attached to the cover are cut from the side and end
pieces.--DeWitt C. Ramsay, Bridgeport, Conn.
* * * * *
¶Small parts may be soldered conveniently by holding them with a clip
made of a piece of clock spring.
A Simple Barometer
A barometer that will indicate weather changes with reasonable accuracy
may be made of two bottles. A milk bottle nearly filled with water is
used as the container and a smaller bottle fitting snugly into the top
is inverted in the mouth of the milk bottle. The mouth of the inverted
bottle should extend about an inch below the surface of the water.
Weather changes will cause the water to rise and fall in the neck of
the inverted bottle.
Removable Posts for Tennis Court
[Illustration: The Post may be Removed for Mowing the Court or When Not
in Use]
It is sometimes desirable to have tennis-court posts arranged to be
easily removed from the lawn or the court when the grass is being
mowed, or during the winter. The method of fixing the posts in the
ground, as shown in the sketch, makes it convenient to remove the posts
and still gives the necessary stability. A square wooden box, tarred to
resist the moisture, is placed in the ground, and the post is fitted
into it. The upper end of the box is level with the surface, and when
the post is removed a wooden block is fitted into the opening. Removal
of the posts permits the mowing of the grass close to them and leaves
the place free from obstructions when the court is not in use.--Edward
R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.
Lightning Switch for Wireless Aerials
Amateur wireless operators often cannot afford to buy a lightning
switch such as is required to ground the aerial when not in use. The
sketch shows such a device, which was made of a marble slab fitted
with copper strips cut from discarded half-tone plates. The base was
smoothed and polished to the size indicated, 4 in. wide and 9 in. long.
The upper edges were beveled off, and holes were drilled near the ends
through which bolts were passed to fasten the small brackets supporting
the crossbar.
[Illustration: Discarded Copper Half-Tone Plates and a Piece of Marble
were Used in Making This Lightning Switch for the Wireless Aerials]
The copper pieces were made as follows: The plates of ¹⁄₁₆-in. copper
were cut into strips, 1¹⁄₄ in. wide. Two were made 8 in. long; four,
3 in. long, and four, ⁷⁄₈ in. long. The 8-in. strips were fastened
together with small bolts and a hole was drilled through one end of the
joined pieces to fit the bolt which forms the pivot for the switch. The
3-in. strips were bent to form a ³⁄₄-in. angle, through which holes
were bored for fastening to the base. The ⁷⁄₈-in. strips were clamped
between the brackets at their lower ends to provide a slot for the
crossbar. The bolts, by which the brackets were clamped together, were
provided with binding nuts to which the wires were connected. A handle
might be fixed to the crossbar, but this is not essential.
Stenciling with Photographic Films
[Illustration: Serviceable Stencils may be Cut from Photographic Films,
and Afford a Practical Means of Making Signs and Other Forms]
Photographic films make excellent material from which to cut stencils
for use in marking show cards, placards, etc., as well as for other
uses to which stencils are put. Pictures, or other designs to be
stenciled, may be pasted to the film and the outline cut, care being
taken that the design is adapted for stenciling. This is important,
since frequently binding strips must be left in the design in order to
make it possible to cut a satisfactory stencil from it. The films are
used with the rough side down, to prevent them from slipping. A variety
of subjects for stencil design may be adapted from pictures clipped
from publications or other sources.--Robert Smith, New Westminster, B.
C., Canada.
A Gas-Stove Lighter
For lighting the gas stove, matches are not only untidy but
inconvenient. In lieu thereof I use a simple affair consisting of a
wood handle with a large nail set in the end, with which it is only
necessary to touch the burner in order to start a flame. There is
nothing to wear out and no parts to renew. Furthermore this gas lighter
uses only one wire--a fact that is apt to strike a person as being
rather unusual on first thought. However, if the reader will connect
one terminal of a 60-watt lamp with the gas main or to the gas stove
and then touch the other terminal successively with each of the two
ends of the live wires it will be found that the lamp will light up
with one terminal but not with the other, for the reason that one side
of the circuit is usually grounded at most electric-light plants as a
precaution against lightning.
All that is necessary to get a spark is to provide a suitable
resistance coil with an iron core, so that the fuse will not be blown
and to secure sufficient inductance to get a hot spark. The writer uses
an ordinary 50-ohm telephone induction coil, in which the primary and
secondary are placed in series by the diagonal connection indicated
in the sketch. Almost any coil or electromagnet of 25-ohm resistance,
or more, connected in a circuit will prove safe and give a hot spark.
Place the coil in some out-of-the-way corner, and run one strand of
the usual flexible cord to the handle, which should be hung at some
convenient point at the right-hand side of the stove. Let the handle
itself be long enough so that there will be no tendency to catch hold
of the metal point. Run the flexible cord through the center and out at
the lower end, into which a wire nail with the head removed is driven.
Solder the wire to the nail, and the lighter is ready.
[Illustration: Single Contact Point for Making a Spark to Light a
Gas-Stove Burner or Tip]
For lighting Bunsen burners, and other fixtures using rubber tubing, a
small wire may be run down the center of the tubing so as to ground the
burner, or else a small surface on the workbench may be covered with
tin and this grounded, so that it is only necessary to set the burner
thereon to get a light.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Arizona.
To Stop Rattling of Windows
Annoyance from the rattling of windows may be overcome by attaching a
small block to the side of the window casing so that it will engage
the sash and hold it firmly. The block should be of ¹⁄₂-in. wood,
about 3 in. long, 1 in. wide, and have one end rounded off. A screw
is fixed through the block near the rounded end and driven into the
window casing at such a point that when the block is turned upward on
its pivot the rounded end will act like a cam and force the sash firmly
against its grooves.
Practical Bracket for Garden Hose
[Illustration]
Care in the storage of a garden hose will pay the owner in the longer
life of it, and the homemade bracket shown in the sketch suggests a
convenient method of caring for the hose. A portion of a barrel was
sawed off at one of the hoops, and after reinforcing it by nailing the
hoops and inserting shelves, it was nailed to the wall. The hose may be
coiled over it in shape to be easily carried to the lawn or garden, for
use. The shelves provide space for an oilcan for the lawn mower, and
other accessories.
Making Filing Envelopes Quickly
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 4
FIG. 3
Folders Like That in Figure 1 may be Glued to Form Envelopes, Figure
2, or Cut Down to the Size Shown in Figure 3, for Use in Combination,
Figure 4]
Folders in which large cards, calendars, posters, etc., are commonly
mailed may be utilized to make convenient filing cases. Envelopes of
the type shown in the sketch, with leatherboard and cord fasteners for
holding the flaps together, may be cut to a uniform size or used in any
smaller size desired, and, by gluing the flaps A and B, will provide
serviceable containers. Small tools or other objects likely to injure
a single-thickness folder, or drop out of it, may be stored in double
envelopes made in this way.
Yardstick on Tool Rack
[Illustration: The Brass Plug and Angle Are Convenient Additions to the
Yardstick, Which Forms the Front of the Tool Rack]
I have derived considerable satisfaction from the use of a yardstick
fitted above my workbench. A plug of brass, having a center-punch mark,
was inserted at the zero point on the yardstick. This is convenient
in setting dividers and other instruments. Below the plug was fixed a
small brass angle, set so that its inner face was at the zero point.
This is useful in measuring pieces from a finished end. If the end of
the yardstick is at the zero point it is necessary to attach a small
extension to take the brass plug.--V. A. Rettich, Hollis, N. Y.
Bicycle Runner for Winter Use
[Illustration: The Mudguard is Fastened to the Rim of the Wheel and
Acts as a Runner over Ice and Snow]
A bicycle may be used with satisfactory results in winter by arranging
a runner under the front wheel, which is lashed to the fork as
indicated in the sketch. The mudguard is used as a runner by releasing
it and dropping it to the position shown. It is then tied securely to
the rim of the wheel and the wheel is tied at the top to the fork.
This idea may be adapted by providing a special runner of sheet metal,
making it unnecessary to wear the mudguard.--C. H. McCaslin, Portland,
Ore.
Homemade Snowshoe Toe Clips
[Illustration: The Uppers of an Old Pair of Shoes were Used to Make a
Set of Toe Clips for Snowshoes]
The uppers from a pair of worn-out shoes may be made into a serviceable
set of toe clips for snowshoes by cutting them off, as shown in the
sketch, and fitting them to the lacing of the snowshoes. The clip is
fastened in place by passing the tying strap through slots in the
former, under the lacing of the snowshoe, and then around the ankle in
the usual manner of fastening.--Richard F. Lufkin, Dorchester, Mass.
Mounting Tracing-Cloth Drawings on Muslin
Tracings mounted on muslin will give long wear and are more
satisfactory in handling than the unmounted drawings. The method of
mounting them is as follows: Stretch a piece of starched muslin,
slightly larger than the drawing, on a flat, smooth board, fastening
it with tacks. Coat the back of the tracing with a good varnish, and
place it, face down, on a flat surface so that it may partly dry and
become tacky, which usually takes two hours. Place the tracing upon
the stretched muslin, varnished side down, and place a smooth sheet of
wrapping paper over it. Using a moderately warm flatiron, and beginning
at the center of the tracing, iron toward the edges, applying moderate
pressure. To remove the tracing from the cloth, it is necessary to
warm the cloth with the iron and strip the tracing and cloth apart
gradually.--John W. Grantland, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Sandpapering Square Edges on Small Machine Bases
The woodwork of small electrical or experimental machines and devices
often detracts from the workmanship because proper care is not taken
in finishing the edges. To smooth off the ends of a small baseboard
squarely, proceed as follows: Square up a piece of 2 by 4-in. stock,
1 ft. long; place a flat sheet of sandpaper on the bench and set the
1-ft. block on top of it, holding it in place with the left hand. Hold
the piece to be squared up firmly against the block and rub it on
the sandpaper. A square edge of smooth finish will result. The edges
should, of course, be planed as smoothly as possible before sanding in
this way.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
Enlarged Lantern Pictures as Guides for Scenic Painting
[Illustration: Scenery for an Amateur Theatrical Performance was Made
by Painting Outlines Projected from a Lantern]
Scenery for a home-talent theatrical performance was required, and
since the services of an expert in that line were not available, an
interesting method of obtaining satisfactory sketches for the figures
and other objects in the background was devised. Colored lantern slides
of scenes suitable for the purpose were selected and projected upon
the canvas to be painted, as shown in the illustration. The outlines
were drawn around the projected figures, making them as accurate as the
original, and far better than would have been possible otherwise by an
amateur painter. The colors were applied following the original model,
with satisfactory results. By the use of various portions of slides,
it was possible to place figures and outdoor effects on the background
which was obtained from the first slide used. A factor which must be
considered in using this method is that the picture on the canvas will
be reversed as to right and left positions compared with the original,
if a direct-reflection projector of the type used with post cards is
employed.--Thomas R. Milligan, Fort Worth, Texas.
Three-Caster Truck for Moving Crates and Furniture
[Illustration]
A convenient truck for handling heavy objects, especially in the home
where commercial devices for this purpose are not available, is shown
in the illustration. It consists of a frame built up of three 1¹⁄₄ by
2 by 14-in. strips, fixed to a disk, ⁷⁄₈ by 12 in. in size. Revolving
casters are mounted under the ends of the arms, giving great freedom
of movement in transporting loads. The three-caster arrangement is
better than the use of four casters, because it accommodates itself to
irregularities in the floor.--Armydas E. Sturdivant, Muncie, Ind.
* * * * *
¶The burner of an acetylene bicycle lamp, fitted to an ordinary gas
jet, will produce a very hot flame.
Inserting or Correcting on Typewritten Bound Sheets
It is frequently necessary that typewritten insertions or corrections
be made in papers which have been typed and bound, usually by rivets
along the top edge. It is difficult to remove the rivets and replace
them satisfactorily. To make such insertions, feed a blank sheet of
paper into the typewriter until its feeding edge is even with the upper
edge of the guide fingers. Then insert the bottom edge of the sheet on
which the correction is to be made, underneath the sheet already in the
machine; reverse-feed the sheet to be corrected into the typewriter.
Corrections may then be made in the usual manner.--A. J. Cook,
Pittsburgh, Pa.
Tire Pump Made of Gas Piping
A tire pump actuated by the explosions in the cylinder of an automobile
engine, and made of materials easily obtainable, is shown in detail in
the illustration. A section of iron pipe of a diameter to fit one of
the ports, and about 4 in. long, as shown in Fig. 2, is provided with
a reducer, a tee, and two caps. The inside of the pipe is turned up
true in a lathe and fitted with a piston, the head for which is shown
in Fig. 1. The head is built up of a wooden drum, washers, and leather
packing disks. The washers should be slightly smaller in diameter than
the chamber, and the leather disks make it air-tight.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
Automobile Tires may be Inflated Quickly by the Use of This Homemade
Pump]
The tee is provided with two valves, as shown in the detail sectional
view, Fig. 3, the upper ball valve retaining the pressure in the pipe
line, and the other valve admitting air above the piston. The ball
valve has a seat of lead, and a ribbed fitting is fixed to the pipe cap
above it, to provide a fastening for the hose. The cap of the other
valve is fitted with a spring, adjustable on a threaded pin.
A light spring fixed to the upper side of the piston, as shown in Fig.
2, forces the piston back to its lower position after the force of the
explosion in the cylinder has acted upon it. The cylinder of the pump
should be oiled, and a reinforced rubber hose should be used to conduct
the air under pressure to the tire.
The operation is simple: The initial stroke of the engine cylinder
draws the piston down, bringing in a charge of air from the valve ports
at the side of the tee; the following compression and explosion strokes
drive it back, forcing the air out of the ball valve, as the other
valve closes on the upstroke of the piston. A large tire may be pumped
up with this device in from five to ten minutes.
Aid in Ruling Uniform Cards or Sheets
When a number of cards or sheets are to be ruled with either horizontal
or vertical divisions, the following method will be found a timesaver:
Rule one of the cards as a sample. Place it on the drawing board with
its lower edge set against two thumb tacks driven part way in. Rule
extensions of the lines on the card to a sheet of paper fastened to the
board under the card. Set a third thumb tack at the right edge of the
card as a guide. By placing the cards to be ruled against the three
thumb tacks in the position of the original card, the rulings may be
made quickly with the marks on the paper backing as guides.--W. P.
Shaw, Stratford, Can.
Tinned Staples for Bell-Circuit Wiring
[Illustration: The Strip is Cut into Squares Which are Folded and
Driven into the Support, Binding the Wire]
Inexpensive and practical staples for binding wires used in bell
circuits, or for similar purposes, may be made from a strip of tinned
sheet metal, about ¹⁄₂ in. wide. The strip is cut on the sides, as
indicated in the sketch, and the squares are broken off as needed. They
may be bent quickly to the shape shown, and are used by placing them
over the wire and driving the points into the wall or other support. If
properly made, they will not injure the covering of the wire and are
more satisfactory than wire staples.
Asbestos Table Mats Reinforced with Wire Netting
Ordinarily heavy pieces of sheet asbestos are used for the mats placed
under hot dishes on the dining table. These are easily broken if bent,
and a simple method of overcoming this breakage is to make mats as
follows: Cut two pieces of sheet asbestos, each about one-half the
thickness of that usually used, one having about ³⁄₄ in. around the
edge which may be used as a binder in pasting the sheets together. Cut
notches into this edge, at intervals of about 2 in., and insert a disk
of wire window screening between the pieces of asbestos. Turn the edges
of the larger piece over and paste in place.
Device for Corrugating Strips
[Illustration]
Having a sheet-metal cog rail to make for the adjusting mechanism of
an enlarging screen, I built a cog-forming device as shown in the
sketch. A block of wood served as the case and two levers with hinges
were fixed to one end of it. Two pieces of hardwood were grooved at
their ends as shown in the smaller sketch, to fit over three tenpenny
nails, A, held in place on the block by staples. Four small nails,
B, were set into the block, as shown, to act as guides for the strip
of metal, which was fed between the forming blocks and the nails on
the case. By pressing down on the hinge levers, the strip was formed
into corrugations or teeth. In order to make the teeth uniform it was
necessary to guide the forming pieces by having one of the cogs fit
over the first nail. The strip thus formed was fixed to a wooden piece
and served as a cog rail.--R. E. Henderson, Walla Walla, Washington.
Birch-Bark Leggings Made in the Woods
[Illustration]
An excellent pair of leggings for use in brush and forest land can
be made in a few minutes from birch bark cut in the woods. Select a
suitable tree, about 6 or 8 in. in diameter, and cut into the heavy
bark to obtain two rolls around the circumference of the tree, taking
care not to cut deep enough to injure it. Fit these sections around the
legs leaving 6-in. portions overlapping. Trim the bark to the proper
shape and soak it in water to soften the grain. Place the bark close to
the fire until it curls. The leggings are then ready for use.
Stretcher for Drying Small Fur Hides
[Illustration]
Small hides should be dried over a stretcher to give the best results,
and the device shown in the sketch will be found useful for this
purpose. It is made of two strips of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, hinged at the
pointed end. Small holes are drilled into the upper surface at the
other ends and adjustment is made by means of a wire bent at the ends
and inserted in the holes.--Elmer Tetzlaff, East DePere, Wis.
* * * * *
¶Wire mesh is useful for drawer bottoms in tool cases where dirt is
likely to accumulate.
Reel for Use with Seed-Planting Guide String
[Illustration: This Reel Aids in Setting Out Plants in Rows]
Many gardeners derive as much pleasure from the orderly arrangement
of the plants in their “farms” as from any other feature of this home
diversion, and I am one of them. In order to facilitate the planting I
made a reel like that shown in the sketch. The frame is of wood, and
the reel is made of a piece of broomstick to which two small tins, or
box covers, are nailed. A wire handle made of a long nail is fitted
to one end, and a shoulder hook is used as a stop for the handle when
it is desired to check the line. A screw eye driven into the back of
the frame holds it at various heights on the stake. This device is far
superior to the common use of two stakes for the planting cord.--James
M. Kane, Doylestown, Pennsylvania.
Kinks on the Care of Umbrellas
Deriving long use from an umbrella depends in part on proper selection,
care of the cloth and frame, and precautions against loss or theft. A
silk cover is desirable to shed rain, and a cotton one for a sunshade.
The hot sun dries out the silk and heats the metal ribs under it,
quickly destroying it. If silk is used for sun protection, wet the
cover occasionally. Always set an umbrella to dry, handle down if there
is not space to dry it open.
A broad ribbon loop on the handle of a woman’s umbrella permits
carrying it on the wrist and prevents forgetting it. An umbrella with a
removable handle can be folded into a suitcase, and putting the handle
in the pocket when leaving the umbrella in any public place makes it
less liable to theft. An umbrella should bear the name and address of
the owner.
A Bell-Ringing Mail Box
[Illustration]
The annoyance of watching for the arrival of the mailman was overcome
by the fitting of an electrical alarm to the mail box, as shown in the
sketch. A strip of metal, A, was pivoted in the box and weighted on one
end. A bell, B, was wired to dry cells in the box below the container
for the mail. When the mail is dropped in the box the end A is forced
down, forming an electrical contact and completing the circuit from
the cells C through the wire D and back through the wire E. When the
mail is removed the weight raises the metal strip.--James E. Noble,
Portsmouth, Canada.
A Simple Polarity Indicator
An ordinary compass, fitted flush in a wooden frame as shown in the
sketch forms the basis for the polarity indicator described. The N, or
north, and S, or south, points of the compass should run lengthwise
with the frame with the former on the end farthest from the binding
posts, C and D. Five turns of No. 18 gauge, or any similar wire are
wound lengthwise around the frame and over the compass. The ends of the
wires terminate at the two binding posts. Begin at C and wind toward
the compass, binding the wire at D.
[Illustration]
If the two ends of a wire are free, and it is desired to know whether
there is any current present, and if so, its polarity, fasten one wire
to the post C and the other to D. Before connecting the wires, hold the
compass and frame in such a way that the needle is over the N point on
the compass dial. If, after the wires are connected, the needle moves,
there is a current flowing. If the needle is deflected toward the east,
the negative wire is on C; if it is deflected toward the west, the
positive wire is on C.
When it is desired to ascertain the polarity of a wire, which is
covered by a floor, ceiling, or molding, hold the compass as explained,
and either directly above or below the wire. Then turn on the current.
If the instrument is above the wire, the wire extending parallel with
it north and south, and the needle is deflected toward the west, the
current is flowing from the north to the south end of the wire. If the
wire runs east and west and the needle is deflected to the west, the
current is running from west to east.
If the wire runs on a diagonal between the directions mentioned, and
the needle is deflected toward the west, he current is flowing from
the quadrant between N and W on the compass dial toward the quadrant
between S and E. If the instrument is held over the wire and the
needle is deflected toward E, the polarity is the opposite to that
last indicated. Should the instrument be held below the wire, if the
needle goes toward W, it is equivalent to going toward E when above the
wire.--H. Sterling Parker, Brooklyn, New York.
* * * * *
¶If the white of an egg is used to seal an envelope which has no
mucilage on the flap, it cannot be opened by steaming it.
Flash Light Used as a Bedroom Night Light
[Illustration]
To save groping about in the dark for my flash light when suddenly
awakened in the night, I devised the arrangement shown in the sketch
and by which a “flash” is used as a wall night light, without lessening
its common uses. The holder B and the board A are of wood, and into
the box is fitted a metal clip, C, to hold the light. A round hole
of proper size is cut through the top of the box and the light set
through it so that the bottom end rests in the clip, the tin ferrule
pressing against it firmly. A light spring, D, makes contact with the
upper terminal of the push switch without closing it. The apparatus is
fastened to the wall, and insulated wires, soldered, one to the clip
C, and the other to the spring D, are connected to a switch placed
in a convenient position. This switch replaces that on the light.
The ceiling serves to reflect and distribute the light rays.--B. L.
Dobbins, Harwich, Mass.
Pie-Plate Gas Heater
[Illustration]
A satisfactory gas heater to take the chill out of the air in a small
room by fitting a pie plate over a gas burner was made by me, as
shown in the sketch. The wires which formerly held the glass shade
were fitted into holes punched in the rim of the plate. It could thus
be removed quickly when not needed and the glass shade put back in
place.--Morris Tinsky, Chicago, Illinois.
A Folding Table with Split-Bamboo Tray for Top
[Illustration]
A folding table frame, designed as a support for a circular
split-bamboo tray, is shown in the photographs reproduced and detailed
in the working drawing. It is a serviceable and inexpensive piece of
furniture, and can be constructed readily by the home mechanic. As the
trays vary in size, the frame must be made to correspond, those from 24
to 28 in. in diameter being satisfactory. The tray may be made by the
ambitious craftsman or purchased at stores dealing in Oriental goods. A
wooden top may, of course, be substituted. The frame is made preferably
of soft wood. The following finished pieces are required for a 24-in.
tray: 4 legs, ⁷⁄₈ by 3 by 30 in.; 4 crosspieces, 1 by 2 by 25 in.
Mortise the legs to the ends of the crosspieces, one set of mortises
being ⁷⁄₈ in. below the other. Assemble the parts and fasten the joints
with glue and 2-in. flat-head screws, countersunk.
[Illustration: This Tray Table Is Readily Portable, and Useful in the
House and on the Porch or Lawn]
Adjust the crosspieces of each set so that their centers match, and
fasten them in this position with screws, from the under side. The two
parts of the frame revolve on them when the table is “knocked down.”
On the ends of the lower crosspieces of each set, fasten blocks to
level the support for the tray. Finish the frame to harmonize with the
furniture of the room. Conceal the screw heads under bands of hammered
or oxidized copper, fastened with copper or brass pins. A second tray
may be placed on the lower crosspieces.--F. E. Tuck, Nevada City, Calif.
Small Desk Lamp Supported by Paper Weight
Those who wish a small desk light that may be pushed back out of the
way in the daytime, will find the accompanying sketch of interest. When
in use on a roll-top desk, the lamp is placed on top near the edge,
so that the bulb overhangs. A 25-watt lamp will light the bed of the
desk, and the small metal shade is so placed that no part of the bulb
is visible to the eye of the worker. By providing a suitable base, the
lamp may be adapted to other uses. A stock paper weight, about 2 in. in
diameter and covered with green felt, was used as a base. An ordinary
drop-cord socket is provided, and to one side of the top cap a strip of
brass, ¹⁄₁₆ by ¹⁄₂ in., is soldered. A hole is drilled near the end of
this strip so that the screw which holds the knob will also hold the
socket. Connect the flexible cord in the usual manner.
[Illustration]
The shade is made of sheet metal, bent in the form of a cone, having
the front shorter than the opposite edge. Make a sketch of the bulb,
and determine the lengths of the two sides A and B, and then draw two
concentric circles of corresponding radii on paper, as indicated in the
small diagram. The proper curve for the shade will then lie between
these two circles. Cut a paper pattern, and form it into a cone. After
the proper shape is determined, mark it on the metal, cut it to shape,
and solder it. A small spring clip, C, engages the tip of the bulb; the
back of the shade is held by a piece of spring wire, D. It is easy to
spring the shade off in replacing the bulb. The outside of the shade
should be enameled an olive-green.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Arizona.
Device Frightens Flies at Screen Door
[Illustration: The Scalloped Roller is Revolved Rapidly When the Door
is Opened, Frightening Flies]
An effective means of frightening flies away from a screen door may be
made from a spring curtain rod and cotton duck. Scallops of 8-oz. duck,
6 in. long, are fastened to the pole, on opposite sides, as shown. The
ratchet on the end of the pole is arranged so as not to catch. A small
cord is wound around the pole and fastened to the screen door. The rod
supports are fixed near the top of the door frame.--Josef H. Noyes,
Paris, Tex.
Porch Swing Made from Automobile Seat
[Illustration: The Seat Discarded from a Rebuilt Car was Put to Good
Use]
When an obsolete type of automobile was converted into a truck for
marketing purposes, a leather-upholstered seat, discarded, was utilized
as an attractive and comfortable porch swing. Hooks were secured to the
front corners of the seat and to the upper edge of the back, for the
chains attached to suitable supports.--George L. Ayers, Washington, D.
C.
Linoleum Panels for a Homemade Chest
A strong packing box was converted into a useful and not unsightly
chest by covering it with panels of linoleum left over from a job of
covering a floor. Strips, ¹⁄₂ by 2 in. wide, were nailed around the
corners of the box to form a panel on the top, sides, and ends. The
wood and the linoleum were shellacked, and made a good appearance.
* * * * *
¶The lower corner of an envelope may be used as a small funnel.
Camera for Bird Photography
[Illustration: Bird Images Large Enough to Show Identification Markings
are Obtained with This Camera]
A reasonably large image must be obtained in photographing bird life,
or the details of plumage and identification are lost, reducing the
value of the pictures. The “gun camera” shown in the photograph was
devised for this purpose, and with it exposures may be made more
quickly than with the telephoto type of camera, a feature of great
value in this class of photography. The device consists of an ordinary
reflecting-type camera, mounted on a carriage for ready portability and
quick adjustment. The bellows is supplemented with a tube, permitting
the use of lenses of upward of 30-in. extreme focus. This gives a
larger image without loss in speed. A ¹⁄₄-in. image of a bird was
obtained with a 7¹⁄₂-in. extreme-focus lens, as against a 2-in. image
with one of 30-in. focus, from the same position. The lens is set near
the rear end of the tube, giving a deep hood for shading the sunlight.
Lenses of an old type, known as “Long Toms,” were used. They are
inexpensive compared with newer types with iris diaphragms, and give
good results even at ¹⁄₁,₀₀₀ exposures.--Arthur Farland, New Orleans,
La.
Electric Fan an Aid to Heating Room
The electric fan is useful not only for cooling the air in summer,
but also for distributing the warm air to advantage in the winter.
An efficient way of warming a room fairly uniformly is to place an
electric fan near a radiator, so that its breeze passes through the
heating coils, or near another source of heat. The heat is circulated
around the room, instead of being kept in a limited area.--Peter J. M.
Clute, Schenectady, N. Y.
Cat-and-Bells Scarecrow
[Illustration]
A scarecrow resembling a living animal is often more effective than
other devices, and the cat-and-bells arrangement shown in the sketch
was found especially so. The hide of a cat was stretched over a hollow
frame and suspended by a cord from a large weather vane. Several bells
were attached to the cord, and when the vane shifts in the wind, the
movement of the hide and the rattling of the bells combine to frighten
the birds.--F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.
* * * * *
¶A coating of five parts of coal tar, one part gasoline, and one part
japan drier will make canvas nearly water-tight.
A Small Hydraulic Turbine
BY FRANK D. BELL
Considerable power and speed can be developed under ordinary
water-supply pressure by the turbine, or water motor, shown in the
sketch and detailed in the working drawings. The parts are of simple
construction, and the machine may be assembled or taken down easily.
It is useful for either belt or direct connection to electrical
generators, small machines, etc., the direct connection being
preferable for a generator. The wheel is built up of sheet metal and
provided with curved buckets set in the saw-tooth edge. The water is
admitted through an opening in the lower part of the housing and passes
out at the opposite end into a suitable drain pipe. The housing is made
of two sections, the main casting and a cover plate. Bearings for the
shaft are cast into the housing, which is reinforced on the back by
ribs radiating from the center.
[Illustration: View of the Water Turbine with the Cover Plate Removed,
Showing Inlet and Drain]
Wooden patterns are made for the housing, the main casting and the
cover plate being cast separately. The pattern for the cover plate
should provide for the bearing lug, as shown in the sectional detail,
and for the angle forming a support at the bottom. Special attention
should be given to allowance for proper draft in making the pattern
for the main casting; that is, the edges of the reinforcing ribs, and
the sides of the shell should be tapered slightly to make removal from
the sand convenient. The advice of a patternmaker will be helpful to
one inexperienced in this work, although many machine metalworkers are
familiar with the process.
[Illustration: Details of a Water Turbine That will Give Considerable
Power and Speed for Driving a Generator or Small Machine]
The finishing and machining of the parts and their assembling should
be undertaken as follows: Clean the castings and file off rough parts.
Smooth the cover plate and the shell to a close fit, and drill and
tap the fastening holes for 8-32 machine screws. Drill ¹⁄₄-in. holes
for the bearings, through the bearing arm and ¹⁄₄ in. into the lug on
the cover plate. Drill and tap the two grease-cup holes for ¹⁄₈-in.
pipe thread, Drill the nozzle hole ¹⁄₄ in., and drill and tap it for a
¹⁄₂-in. pipe nipple.
Lay out the wheel of ¹⁄₁₆-in. brass, making 24 notches in its edge.
Fasten the wheel to the ¹⁄₄-in. shaft with a flanged coupling, fixing
it with a setscrew. Bolt the flange to the wheel with 8-32 steel bolts.
Make the buckets of ¹⁄₃₂-in. sheet brass, curved as detailed, and round
off the edges. Solder them into place, using plenty of solder and
making certain that the curve is set properly. Place drops of solder
on the flange nuts to secure them. Place the ends of the shaft on two
knife-edges, and balance the wheel by adding drops of solder to the
lighter side. This is very important, as undue vibration from lack of
balance will wear the bearings quickly.
Assemble the machine, using shellac between the cover plate and shell.
Make connection to the water supply with a ¹⁄₂-in. pipe. Bolt the
machine down, and do not let it run at full speed without load.
Automatic Lock Box for Milk Bottles
[Illustration]
A mousetrap spring, provided with a suitable catch, was fitted into a
box for milk bottles, and served to protect the milk bottle against
theft by prowlers. The box was made large enough to hold several
bottles, the empty ones in one portion and the filled bottles in
another. The bottle is dropped through an opening in the locked end
of the box and the spring forces up the catch. While this device may
be tampered with, it guards effectively against the theft of bottles
of milk, since most of those stolen are taken because they are easily
accessible.--L. F. Head, Seattle, Wash.
* * * * *
¶The oxyacetylene flame may be used in cutting or welding steel
cables, but such welds will not sustain the original safe load of the
cable.
Uses for an Old Toothbrush
A discarded toothbrush, properly cleaned so as not to be insanitary,
may be used in one or possibly more of the following ways: to raise
the nap of white buckskin shoes, after polishing them; in reaching
corners with shoe polish, or in cleaning out eyelets and corners;
cleaning typewriter keys with benzine; polishing small parts of
metalwork.--Joseph A. Cunningham, Philadelphia, Pa.
A Locking Sheath for Hunter’s Knife
[Illustration]
Having made a hunting knife and desiring a suitable sheath for it, I
devised that shown in the sketch, which has the special feature that
the guard on the knife handle locks in slots cut through the sheath.
Two pieces of leather were used, one for the back section and the
other for the shorter front piece. The sewing at the edges of the
two sections extends from the level of the slots around the lower
end of the sheath. Two slots were cut vertically through the upper
portion of the sheath, which is fastened to the belt of the wearer, as
indicated.--George H. Flint, Harrison, Me.
Discarded Buggy Springs for Diving Board
Old leaf springs obtained from a buggy were used to give the necessary
spring to a diving board. One of the springs was set at each side of
the board about 2¹⁄₂ ft. from the fixed end, and they were joined by
a cross support of 2 by 4-in. wood, on which the spring board rested.
Straps to check the strain on the springs from the rebound were
provided.
Water Wheel Turns Spit over Campfire
When a camp fire is placed near a stream, water power may be utilized
to turn the spit in roasting meat over the fire. The rod, on which the
roast is suspended, should be extended, and supported at one end, over
the water. A small paddle wheel may then be rigged up easily on the rod.
A Detachable Chair Arm
[Illustration: This Folding and Detachable Chair Arm Is Useful in the
Home]
The children in the home as well as others can make good use of a chair
arm which may be attached quickly to an ordinary chair. The wide arm is
clamped to the back of the chair by means of a strip of metal fitted
with a thumbscrew, and the upright is fixed to the arm by a hinge,
making it convenient to store the device. The lower end of the upright
is fitted with a metal angle which fits on the corner of the chair.--J.
F. Long, Springfield, Mo.
Comic Chest Expander for Play or Stage Use
[Illustration: The Performer’s Chest “Swells with Pride” When He Draws
on the String by Shifting His Position]
A device used in an amateur vaudeville sketch with good effect, and
which is interesting for play purposes, was made of a ¹⁄₃₂ by 9 by
14-in. piece of sheet spring brass, rigged as shown. In the center,
near the upper edge, a small pulley was soldered, and at the center
of the bottom edge a small hole was drilled. In it was fastened one
end of a 4-ft. string which ran up through the pulley. The other end
was fastened to a strap to fit around the leg just above the knee.
At the two upper corners of the brass sheet two slots were cut to
accommodate similar straps, as fastenings. When the wearer stands in a
normal position the chest is as usual, but by straightening the body
and slightly moving the strapped leg back, the brass sheet is bowed
outward, giving the appearance indicated.--Arthur L. Kaser, South Bend,
Ind.
* * * * *
¶Square cardboard disks fastened to the ends of a spool with thumb
tacks will prevent it from rolling.
Cane Made of Tubing Contains Cigars
[Illustration]
As a novelty in canes, a steel tube was provided with a suitable handle
and used as a container for cigars and matches. The tube was fitted
with a metal cap at its junction with the handle and the cigars are
inserted or removed at this point. The end of the handle was bored out
and also provided with a cover, as a match safe. The tube was enameled
and varnished to resemble wood.--James E. Noble, Toronto, Canada.
Key Ring Used as a Cover Fastener
[Illustration]
The usual box-cover fastener in the form of a staple and hasp can be
fastened quite securely, and much better than with the use of a wood
pin, by applying a key ring to the staple. This is to take the place
temporarily in case the lock is lost or discarded.--James M. Kane,
Doylestown, Pa.
Golf Tee Made of a Shotgun Shell
[Illustration]
Instead of making golf tees in the usual manner I used the brass end
of a shotgun shell, weighted with a small iron ball attached to a
string. The device was made as an experiment and proved so useful
and convenient to carry that I continued to use it.--Edward Beasley,
Texarkana, Ark.
Patching Canvas Bottom of a Canoe
A patch of silk, properly applied makes a good repair for a hole worn
through the canvas bottom of a canoe. Loosen the canvas for about 2
in. around the hole and apply thick shellac. Insert a piece of silk in
the hole to lap under the edges of the canvas. Permit the shellac to
dry slightly and smooth down the patch. Protect the joint further with
white lead, smoothing over the patch and painting it when dry.
Handy Tray for Pencils and Penholders
[Illustration]
A piece of light cardboard, or sheet metal, may be folded into a neat
and useful holder for pens, pencils, etc., on the desk or drafting
table. In the latter case a piece of stiff drawing paper folded into
V-grooves and tacked to the board, is convenient. For use on a finished
surface the folded piece should be pasted on cardboard or otherwise
fastened down.--William Robert, Springfield, Mass.
Removing Sag from Couch Spring
[Illustration]
A couch spring of the type shown in the sketch sagged considerably,
making it ineffective. The sag was taken up by bending the sections
of wire with a monkey wrench, so that the entire spring was stiffened
almost as satisfactorily as when new. Care must be taken that the wires
are bent uniformly so that the strain is evenly distributed.
* * * * *
¶An eggshell may be balanced on the edge of a knife if the egg is
“blown,” and then partly filled with sand.
An Effective Combination Lock Easily Made
BY E. F. STRONG
The combination lock described has been used for years on lockers and
letter boxes in a large public building. The details of a lock with
three disks are given, and in Fig. 4 the use of two disks is suggested.
The lock is made as follows: From a piece of ³⁄₁₆ or ¹⁄₄-in. hard wood,
saw out three disks, A, Fig. 1, from 1 to 4 in. in diameter, according
to the size of lock desired. For one with 2-in. disks, as shown, cut
slots, B, ¹⁄₂ in. wide and deep, in the edge of the disks. For axles
use ³⁄₈ by 2-in. hardwood dowels, C, with a six-penny headless wire
nail in one end, leaving about ¹⁄₄ in. of it exposed.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
This Wooden Combination Lock Gives Good Service and is Easily Made]
The case of the lock is shown in Fig. 1. It is made large enough to
mount the disks, as shown. Around the edges of the inside surface of
the lid fasten strips a trifle thicker than the disks. Place the disks
in the positions shown, drilling small holes in the baseboard for the
nail axles. The bolts, D, and the piece, E, are made of hard wood,
fastened with a lap joint. On each side of the bar, D, fasten cleats,
F, to hold it in position. The handle, H, moves in a slot in the lid,
and is fixed to the bar, E.
The door, or lid, on which the lock is to be used, is provided with
openings, J, as shown in Fig. 3. The axles C, project through openings,
as bearings. When the windows J, through which the combinations are
read, are made, place the ends of the bolts in the slots of the disks
and screw the lock in position. Mark on each disk the point exactly
in the center of the window, enabling one to work the combination
temporarily. To lock the device, push the handle to the left and turn
the axles. To unlock it, turn the axles until the pencil marks appear
in the middle of the windows, and throw the bolts.
Next make paper dials, K, of a diameter as shown in Fig. 2. Divide the
circumference into from 50 to 100 equal parts, according to the size
of the dial, and draw radii, as shown. Number at least every fifth
point. To the face of each disk, A, with small thumb tacks, fasten one
of the dials, placing the combination numbers selected exactly over
the pencil marks made in setting the temporary combination. Verify the
combination before locking it. Unless the slots in the disks are a
little wider than the ends of the bolts, the combination must be very
closely adjusted. An aid in setting the combination is a line on the
glass or a point of black paper, as shown in Fig. 2. The combination
may be changed by setting the dials in new positions. The large
number of combinations possible makes it very difficult to obtain the
combination. For most purposes, two disks are sufficient in a lock of
this kind.
* * * * *
¶A convenient method of supporting a garden-hose nozzle is to tie a
loose knot in the end of the hose, arranging the nozzle to spray as
desired.
A Simple Metal Bird Basin
[Illustration]
A bird basin can be made an attractive feature of a home garden, and
that shown in the illustration was made easily of a metal basin and a
section of iron pipe. The pipe was sunk in the ground to a depth of 30
in. and loose rock placed around the end of it. A shallow pan, hammered
out of a flat piece of sheet metal and provided with a cork stopper,
was fixed to the upper end of the pipe. Holes were made in the edge
of the pan and strings to support morning-glories were attached from
them to a hoop, set in the ground around the pipe. When it is desired
to change the water in the pan it is drained off by releasing the
cork.--Mrs. F. D. Reynolds, Stevens Point, Wis.
Catch-All Screen inside Hot-Air Register
[Illustration]
In order to recover small articles dropped through the floor-register
grating of a hot-air heating system without the necessity of removing
a section of the pipe, mesh gratings like that shown were fitted into
place. Number six gauge wire mesh was used in pieces just large enough
to fit into the metal box below the register. Access to the screen may
be had by removing the grating--F. M. Ball, St. Louis. Mo.
Practical Uses for Old Button Clasps
Leather and metal-button clasps from suspenders are useful in repairing
heavy gloves, large leather cases, and other articles on which the
clasps have been lost or worn out. They may be sewed or riveted into
place. Attached to straps, they are useful means of making a fastening,
and may be applied to leggings, and other parts of outing clothes.
Bark-Covered Porch Light and Plant Shelf
[Illustration]
A combination flowerpot holder and reading lamp was made from two
pieces of wood, bark, and a lamp socket, and proved to be a good shaded
reading light. With a plant in the flowerpot, the fixture was made
quite attractive by day. Maple bark, well dried out, was used. A piece
of board, ³⁄₄ in. thick, was cut to fit the curve of the bark, and
fastened to it. The former was then nailed to another board, ¹⁄₂ by 5
by 14 in., which formed the support for the fixture. A lamp socket was
attached and a suitable current source provided.
Removable Headrest for Chair
A convenient attachment for the back of a chair is an extension padded
to form a comfortable headrest. This may be made by fixing a padded
piece of wood, 6 in. wide and 20 in. long, to the chair back by means
of suitable wooden braces, notched to fit the top of the chair.
Rigging Economizes Space in Closet
[Illustration: This Simple Rigging Gave Accommodation for a Large
Quantity of Clothing in a Small Closet]
It was necessary to store a considerable quantity of clothing in a
small clothes closet, and the rigging detailed in the illustration
was devised, and provided unusual accommodations. Wooden rods, 1¹⁄₂
in. in diameter, were set across the closet at each side of the door
and supported on notched blocks, as shown in the detail at the left.
The clothes used frequently were supported on these rods by means
of hangers. For clothes out of season, or used only occasionally. a
special rigging was arranged in the space above the door. A 1¹⁄₂-in.
rod was fitted between the walls to slide in a groove at its ends.
Strips nailed to the wall formed the groove. Cords, attached to the
rod, as shown, and carried to the ceiling, where pulleys were fixed,
made it convenient to raise or lower the rod. A sheet was spread over
the clothes to protect them.--A. K. Hay, Ottawa, Canada.
Scoop Made of Box End
A scoop that is serviceable for handling various kinds of lighter
bulk material may be made by cutting the end from a cardboard box of
suitable size and trimming it into shape. A handle may be provided by
making a loop of cloth, or flexible cardboard, and fastening it with a
paper fastener.
Mechanical Toy Pigeon Made of Wood
[Illustration: Draw on the Wire and the Head and Tail Bob Up and Down]
When the head of the mechanical pigeon is lowered the tail rises, and
the reverse. It is constructed as follows: Make paper patterns for the
parts, which consist of two body pieces, a head, a tail, and the foot
piece. The shape of the parts is shown in the sketch, the front body
piece being removed to show the connections of the rubber and wire
controlling the movements. The view above shows the fastening of the
parts with nails. The main sizes of the parts, which are made of ¹⁄₈
to ¹⁄₄-in. soft wood, are: head, 1³⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₂ in.; body, 2 by 5¹⁄₄
in.; tail, 1¹⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₄ in.; foot piece, 1³⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ in. Mark the
shapes on the wood, cut them out, and mount them, with a rubber band
connecting the head and tail, as shown. Nail the foot piece between the
body pieces, and pivot the head and tail on nails. Connect the head
with a wire, having a loop on one end. Make the holder, and cut a slot
into it for the draw wire, operated with the finger.--C. C. Wagner, Los
Angeles, Calif.
Sportsman’s Cabinet for Guns, Equipment, and Books
[Illustration]
The books, magazines, guns, fishing tackle, camera, etc., of the
out-of-door man are often kept or laid aside in various places. To
provide a good place for such equipment, I made the case shown.
What apparently is a neat bookcase when closed, the top shelf used
as a magazine rack, accommodates numerous other articles. After the
“bookcase” has been examined superficially I open the door, swing the
shelves out, and display back of them my guns, hunting togs and outfit.
Two small drawers, covered by the upper rail of the door when closed,
hold various small articles; and a blind drawer under the door holds
shoes and the larger articles. I constructed this combination cabinet
as follows: The lumber used was ⁷⁄₈-in. chestnut. The dimensions of
the cabinet are 60 by 30 by 14 in. For the back of the bookshelf and
cabinet I used matched ceiling. The door casings are 4 in. wide; the
sidepieces of the door are 3 in. wide, the top, 4 in., and bottom
piece, 6 in. wide. This cabinet cost me less than $3 and does the
service of a gun cabinet valued at $30.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, N. Y.
A Photographic-Negative Filing System
In order to preserve photographic negatives and to make them easily
available, the following homemade system was devised: The negatives
are kept in envelopes having a print from the negative therein mounted
on the face. A trial, or an inferior, print is used, and shows what
negative it contains. Extra prints and enlargements are kept in the
same envelope for each negative. On the face, or back, of the envelope
is written data, such as name or title of subject, place and date
taken, stop and shutter speed used, most suitable printing paper,
developer, etc. This data may be kept in the negative envelope on a
sheet of paper. This leaves the photograph album free from data that
is of no interest to persons viewing the pictures. The envelopes are
kept in their original boxes, classified as “Animals,” “Birds,” “Live
Stock,” “Landscapes,” “My 1914 Vacation Trip,” and so forth.
Knee-Rest Holder for Milking Pail
[Illustration]
Becoming tired of holding the milk pail between my knees while milking,
I made a contrivance of strap iron to overcome this. It is arranged so
that the milk pail will just fit inside, the curved straps supporting
the weight of the pail on the knees. The holder may be made of wood,
with the possible exception of the curved arms, which should be made
of pieces of iron, ¹⁄₈ in. thick and about 2 wide. The circular frame
can be made adjustable to various pails by bolts set in holes in the
bands.--J. C. Whitescarver, Miami, Okla.
Tool Sockets in Edge of Drawing Board
Drawing tools, pencils, etc., were kept out of the way on a drawing
board by inserting them in pockets drilled in the upper edge of the
drawing board. A small brass plate, pivoted on the center, was used
to cover each set of two pockets, and the latter were numbered on the
upper surface of the board.--Elmer O. Tetzlaff, De Pere, Wis.
Cart for Carrying Huge Drum in Parade
[Illustration: This Rubber-Tired Cart was Built Specially for a Large
Drum Used in Parades]
The inalienable right of the small boy to carry the drum in a parade
was disregarded when the cart shown in the sketch was made for a large
drum. Two rubber-tired wheels were mounted on an axle bent to fit the
drum, and curved handles, forming a supporting frame, were fixed to it.
The frame was made of hickory, steamed and bent into shape, and the
drum was arranged to be quickly dismounted.--W. C. K., Mason City, Iowa.
A Homemade Inverted Electric-Light Fixture
An attractive and serviceable inverted-light fixture for a den
and study was made at an outlay of about 30 cents, the details of
construction being shown in the illustration. The light is distributed
thoroughly, and with a 40-watt lamp is ideal for work at a desk. The
lower portion A is a tin washbasin, costing 10 cents, and the part C
is a cup-cake pan, costing 5 cents. The rim B is made of ⁵⁄₈-in. wood,
13 in. in diameter, and the disk E, 10 in. wide, is the round block
cut from the center of the rim B. The uprights D are made of ³⁄₈-in.
dowel rods and of a length suitable to the height of the room. They are
glued and toenailed to the rim and disk. F is a cup-cake pan, and G is
a drawer knob, fastened to the pan F. These parts can be omitted if
desired. They are fastened to the top with wood screws.
[Illustration: A Ten-Cent Washbasin was Used as a Reflector for This
Light Fixture]
The light socket is supported in a metal strap, H, having a rounded
offset to match a bolted clamping strip. The inside of the basin, being
tinned, acts as an excellent reflector. All parts except the inside of
the pan are enameled white. The fixture is fastened to the ceiling with
screws through the disk.--A. F. Krueger, Champaign, Ill.
* * * * *
¶The gummed portions of unsealed envelopes are often useful when a
gummed strip is desired.
Laying Out a Horizontal Sundial Plate
To make a sundial accurately it is necessary to lay out the lines for
the particular locality where it is to be used, as a dial will vary
slightly according to the latitude. The parts may be made of wood,
metal, or stone. A good method is to have a bronze casting made from
a wooden pattern. The lines may be cut with a lathe and planer in a
machine shop, or engraved by hand.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
Lay Out the Dial Plate Symmetrically, Allowing Space for the Style]
The illustrations show how the dial is made. The lines, as indicated
in Fig. 1, should be laid out very carefully, first on a pattern. Draw
a horizontal line near the top which represents the six-o’clock line,
A-VI, in Fig. 2. Then lay out another line AH, at right angles to A-VI.
Take a point C at any convenient place and construct the right-angled
triangle ABD. The angle CAB should be equal to the degree of latitude
of the place. The angle CBD equals CAB. Take a compass and set it to
a radius equal to the side BD, and draw the quadrant DF from E. From
D draw the line DG out for same distance and parallel with A-VI. Now
divide the quadrant DF into six equal parts. Draw the lines E1, E2, E3,
etc., and where they intersect the line DG, draw the lines from A, as
A-I, A-II, A-III, etc. These are the hour lines. Divide each of the six
divisions of the quadrant into four parts, and draw the lines, as shown
between the 3 and 4 divisions. These are the 15-minute parts. Each
of these parts may be divided in turn, and this is best done by eye,
unless the dial is quite large.
[Illustration: The Dial is Mounted Horizontally with the High End of
the Style toward the North]
[Illustration: FIG. 2
FIG. 3
Diagram for Marking the Dial and Making the Style]
This will complete one-half of the dial. The other half is done in the
same manner, leaving a space between the line AH and its corresponding
line for the other side of the dial. This space should be equal to the
thickness of the upright shadow-casting piece, or style. The style has
its base equal in length to the line AH, and its angle, S, equal to the
latitude, or the angle CAB. It is mounted in the space with the high
end at 12 o’clock. It may be fastened to the dial with screws passing
through the base. Mount the dial horizontally on a suitable pedestal.
The style should be exactly north and south, with 12 o’clock toward
the north. The dial will be fast or slow over clock time. This is
corrected by consulting an almanac and setting the clock accordingly
from the dial. A correction plate may thus be made and mounted on the
pedestal.--F. B. Walters, Baltimore, Md.
Homemade Roadster with Motorcycle Engine
By mounting a 5-hp. motorcycle engine on a frame built of 2 by 4-in.
stuff, and rigging the outfit on running gear made of gas-pipe axles,
old buggy springs, and motorcycle wheels, I made the light roadster
shown in the photograph, at small cost. It develops 30 miles an hour
easily, carrying only the driver, and has carried five persons. The
frame is suspended from the springs, with an underslung effect, on the
front axle. The power is transmitted by a friction drive, consisting of
a fiber contact pulley, obtained from an old commercial car, and a disk
used as a cutter on a plow.
[Illustration: This Friction-Drive Cyclecar was Built in Spare Time by
a Mechanic, Using Largely Makeshift Material]
The front axle is of 1-in. gas pipe fitted with suitable-size solid
nipples, and washers, at the bearings. The steering knuckle was made
of steel shafting turned down to fit a pipe tee, set in the axle. The
drive shaft is ⁷⁄₈ in. in diameter, and has a ball thrust bearing on
the end. Sprocket gearing gives a ratio of 6 to 1, on high speed.--E.
L. Munsen, La Conner, Wash.
Mending Aluminum Cooking Utensils
Holes in aluminum ware may be mended by plugging them with rivets as
follows: Make a rivet of lead or solder, and enlarge the hole to fit
the rivet tightly. Insert the rivet from the inside and back it with a
piece of hard wood, or metal. Rivet the other end to fill the hole and
lap over it slightly. Suitable rivets may be made by cutting a lead
wire, about ³⁄₄ in. long, and of the desired diameter, on which a head
is formed by riveting down the end. The wire is set in a hole in a
block during this operation.--L. C. Burke, Madison, Wis.
Feeding Cards into Typewriter
Trouble is sometimes experienced in feeding cards into a typewriter,
and this may be overcome by providing a paper sheet as a leader. Run
the sheet of paper into the machine and feed the card in after it,
lapping their adjoining edges. This prevents the edge of the card from
catching on the rolls.
A California Bungalow for Canaries
[Illustration]
An outdoor birdhouse, which has proved popular in various sizes,
especially for canaries, is that with a bungalow roof, and sides of
wire netting, as shown in the photograph reproduced. While a number of
these houses were made in a workshop to order, the construction is so
simple that boys will find considerable fun in making them, especially
in framing the roof. The house shown is 18 by 28 in., and 14¹⁄₂ in.
high to the eaves strip. The body of the house is made in two side and
two end frames, fastened at the corners with screws. The wire is put on
the frames before assembling them. A small, sliding door, of wood and
wire, is provided, or one end may be made in two frames, one of which
is hinged for a door. The eaves should extend at least 2¹⁄₂ inches.--H.
L. Coolidge, Pasadena, Cal.
Homemade Device Aids Blind Person in Writing
[Illustration: The Height of the Letters is Gauged by a Guide Wire]
To assist my father in writing, notwithstanding his blindness, I made
the machine shown in the illustration. It has been in use two years,
and proved thoroughly practical. It consists of a board, ¹⁄₂ by 11 by
13³⁄₄ in., on which the paper is held by a clip. Two stops, A, insure a
good alinement of the sheet. A T-square, B, slides in a groove at the
left side; the upper edge is beveled. At a distance of ³⁄₄ in. from
this edge is stretched a brass guide wire, C, by means of which the
height of the script is gauged. The wire is supported on brass strips,
D. When the line is written, a pin, E, set in one of a row of holes in
the groove F, is raised, the T-square moved, and the pin inserted in
the next hole below, giving the correct spacing. As the wire does not
touch the paper, either ink or pencil can be used. The board consists
of four pieces, glued, and fastened with screws, as detailed.--Arthur
E. Tremaine, Brookline, Mass.
Making Cardboard Tubes for Electrical Coils
It is often difficult to obtain cardboard tubes as foundations for
coils of special sizes, and the following is a practical method for
making them as desired: Cut a strip of cardboard somewhat wider than
the length of the tube desired and about 2 ft. long. Soak the cardboard
in water until it is quite pliable. Wrap it tightly around a wooden rod
of suitable size, gluing or shellacking each successive layer. When the
desired thickness has been obtained, bind the tube with string, and
place the whole in a moderately warm oven to dry. The tube may then be
cut to length.--Alexander V. Bollerer, New Britain, Conn.
An Army in a Small Box
[Illustration: By Reason of the Mirrors, a Few Soldiers Appear as an
Army]
A play device that will afford much amusement and which is interesting
for boys to make is that shown in the sketch. To make the peephole
cabinet, obtain a box of suitable size; fasten a piece of looking-glass
inside, at each end. Make a peephole at one end of the box, and rub the
silvering from the back of the looking-glass at the hole. Place a few
metal soldiers, horses, etc., along the sides of the box 1 or 2 in.
apart, one being set to hide the reflection of the hole. By looking
through the hole an endless army may be seen. Light is provided through
the skylight at the top, which is fitted with ground glass or tissue
paper. This device perplexes most persons who are not familiar with its
construction.--James E. Noble, Portsmouth, Canada.
Liquid-Filled Tray Carried Safely
In photographic work, and in the shop or laboratory, chemicals carried
in shallow trays are easily spilled. In photographic work, especially,
this endangers materials used, as the spilled liquid dries and dust
affected by it may spoil chemicals with which it comes into contact.
The tray should be carried in a larger pan or basin partly filled with
water, thus keeping the tray level.
Making an Umbrella Handle Detachable
[Illustration]
A parasol or umbrella with a detachable handle is a great convenience
in packing when traveling, and a handle may be made detachable as
follows: Remove the handle by using a block of wood and a hammer.
Clean out the hole, and polish the steel stem with emery, as far as
it goes into the handle. Cut off 1 in. from the end, and then solder
a section of brass tubing into this piece, and another section into
the end of the stem. The abutting ends are then tapped to fit an 8-32
screw, which is then soldered into the shorter piece, as shown. The
latter is pushed into the handle, and a hole, ¹⁄₁₆ in. in diameter, is
drilled almost through the handle. A piece of wire nail is driven into
this hole. By making the screw fast in the handle rather than in the
stem, the threads are protected, and the length when taken apart is
correspondingly reduced.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
* * * * *
¶To renew a typewriter ribbon, roll it on a spool and apply a very
small drop of glycerin at intervals of several inches, with a
fountain-pen filler, and permit the glycerin to soak in thoroughly.
Boys’ Athletic-Equipment Locker
[Illustration: The Boy Who Takes Pride in His Athletic Equipment will
Find Much Pleasure in Making This Cupboard for It]
The boy should have a place in the home for his sports togs and
equipment, and a cupboard like that shown can be made easily for the
purpose. Its size will depend on the quantity of articles to be stored.
A good size is 12 by 30 in., by 5 ft. high. Plain boards are used, and
for the door they are fastened together with cleats and screws. The
drawer is convenient but not essential.--J. D. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.
Wire Compacts Bristles in Polish or Stencil Brushes
[Illustration]
The bristles of brushes used for applying shoe polish and for painting
through stencils often curl so much that the brush becomes almost
useless. In order to overcome this I bound the bristles with several
turns of wire and soldered them into place as shown. When desirable,
part of the wire may be removed by cutting it at the solder.--Hugo
Kretschmar, West Nyack, N. Y.
Old Table Used as Wall Workbench
Good use was made of an old table, one leg of which was broken, by
removing two of the legs at one side and fitting the table against
a wall. A wide board was set on the back edge of the table, against
the wall, and provided a rack for tools. A drawer was fitted into the
front of the table, and a small iron vise was clamped at one end. The
arrangement provided a convenient bench for home shop work.
Lettering Photo Prints without Marking Negative
Instead of scratching titles on photographic negatives, which often
produces a poor result, a good method is to write the title on the
sensitive paper with black ink before printing. Care must be taken not
to scratch the paper. The toning and fixing baths wash away the ink,
leaving the script or lettering white. The negative is thus unmarred.
Rope Pad Prevents Slamming of Door
[Illustration]
An antislam pad, made of a piece of rope and fixed to the knobs of
doors, is in general use in a large hospital. The device is made by
forming loops on the end of a short section of rope, as shown, and
fitting them over the door knob. This also prevents the closing of the
door so that a patient may be heard in calling an attendant.--C. M.
Hall, St. Louis, Missouri.
* * * * *
¶Curtain rollers should be arranged so that the direction of pull on
the tacked edge of the curtain is away from the end.
Box to Protect Extra Spark Plugs
[Illustration: The Spark Plugs are Fitted Compactly in the Case and are
Protected from Damage]
Damage often results to spark plugs which are thrown in the tool box of
an automobile, and the use of a small case for the extra spark plugs is
desirable. Partitions may be fitted into an old box of suitable size,
or a case may be specially made. That shown was designed to provide for
six spark plugs in a minimum of space. It was made of ¹⁄₄-in. wood, and
of a length so that the spark plugs could be slipped in the recesses
only by turning the faces of adjoining plugs together. A hinged cover
keeps them firmly in place.--E. R. Mason, Danville, Ill.
Homemade Spring Wagon Seat
Two ⁷⁄₈-in. boards, 12 in. wide, between which two 12-in. pieces of 2
by 4-in. wood are bolted, provide a strong spring seat for a wagon. The
boards are cut to a suitable length, and the 2 by 4-in. pieces are set
near the middle, and about 8 in. apart. This gives a spring seat at
each end of the device.
Cushioned Chair Made of a Barrel
A strong barrel may be made into a comfortable chair by cutting
it halfway through at the middle and shaping the remaining upper
portion into an arm and back rest. Holes are bored at the seat level
and at the back, and wires woven through them to form a backing for
excelsior-stuffed cushions.
Bicycle Fitted Up to Resemble Motorcycle
[Illustration: Comparison of the “Before and After” Illustrations Shows
Strikingly the Resemblance to a Motorcycle]
The boy who cannot own a motorcycle but who has a bicycle, may remodel
it to resemble a power-driven machine by fitting it up with equipment,
much of which can be made in the home workshop. The illustration shows
how an ordinary bicycle was improved by several practical fittings.
The lower end of the mudguard of the rear wheel was extended to form
a clip, for the homemade stand A. Brackets were made of strap iron to
support the bundle carrier B, the basket of which was made of wood. The
tank C, 3 by 3 by 21 in., with two compartments and doors, contains
batteries and tools. It is fastened to the frame by means of two bolted
straps. The bracket D was made of strap iron, to support the electric
headlight E. The handlebars were extended, as shown at F, and the horn
G was provided. The seat post was lengthened by welding a piece to it,
and reversed, as at H. A tail light, J, and a pump, K, held by straps,
were provided, and the front mudguard was fitted with a leather piece,
L, shaped as shown in the front view.--P. P. Avery, Garfield, N. J.
Toy Submarine Made of Shade Roller
[Illustration: This Submarine’s “Engine” is Wound by Means of the
Propeller]
The submarine shown really goes, and was made of a bit of tin, some
lead, a few brads, and an old window-shade roller, with a good spring.
The spring is the submarine engine. Saw off the roller 3 in. beyond
the inner end of the spring, and shape it like the bow of a submarine.
Flatten a piece of lead, and fasten it to the bottom of the boat for
a keel. Experiment until the keel is of the right weight, and in the
proper place, permitting the boat to move evenly, just below the
surface of the water. For the propeller, cut a 2-in. tin disk as shown,
and bend the blades into shape. In the center make a hole to admit the
end of the spring, to which it is then soldered. Wind up the “engine”
by turning the propeller. The shade-roller spring can also be used for
other toy craft.--E. P. Sullivan, Arlington, Massachusetts.
* * * * *
¶Rub powdered graphite on rubber and asbestos gaskets so that they
may be removed easily when desired.
Simple Machine for Transmitting Writing
[Illustration: A Message Written on the Pad with a Pencil is
Transmitted to the Other Pad at a Considerable Distance Away]
An interesting and novel construction for amateur or boy mechanics is a
telautograph or writing telegraph machine. The instruments, as shown,
are duplicates with the exception of the placing of the rubber bands.
They can be made in different sizes, and satisfactory results were
obtained by making the base 7 by 12 in., the arm B 5 in. long and ³⁄₄
in. wide, and the triangle C 6 in. by 3¹⁄₂ in. A hole is bored in the
arm B, slightly smaller than the pencil to be used and a slot sawed
from the edge to hole, so that when the pencil is forced into the hole
it will be tightly gripped, as at A. The arm B is fastened to triangle
C, to move freely. The triangle is fastened to the base, and can also
move freely. The rubber bands D are stretched tightly to hold the
moving parts in position. The strings E should be strong, and stretched
taut.
[Illustration]
The larger diagram shows the instruments placed in parallel position.
The smaller diagram shows how they can be placed one above the other.
An unruled pad is fastened to the base of each instrument with thumb
tacks. The operation may be traced by noting the successive action of
the parts when the pencil on the pad at the left is moved in writing
a message. The pivoted triangle communicates the action to the string
E, which actuates the other triangle and its lever system. The rubber
bands serve to steady the action. The instruments may be arranged a
short distance apart for play or experimental purposes or set in rooms
on different floors, by making suitable pulley connections for the
cords E.--William Freebury, Buffalo, N. Y.
Diagonal Corners on Disk-Record Covers
[Illustration]
Having been bothered with the edges of square paper covers of disk
records curling, making it unhandy to place them in a file, I remodeled
them as shown in the sketch. The covers without the lower corners
were so convenient that I made others by folding and pasting paper
of the shape shown in the pattern. It was found desirable to use
a good quality of paper for the new envelopes as this gave added
protection.--J. H. Moore, Hamilton, Ontario, Can.
Live Poultry Weighed Handily in Funnel Scale
A deep funnel, or cone, made of sheet metal and attached to an ordinary
platform weighing scale or a draw scale, is useful especially in
weighing live poultry. The fowl is placed in the funnel head first and
remains quiet while being weighed, which is not the case in most common
methods of weighing. The funnel is mounted on three legs, for use on a
platform scale, and suspended from a ring by chains, from the hook of a
drawspring scale.--C. W. Reemtsen, Des Moines, Ia.
Transferring Pictures to Glass
The surface of glass on which pictures are to be transferred must be
thoroughly clean. A coat of nearly colorless varnish is applied, and
permitted to dry overnight in a room free from dust. Wet the picture,
soaking it in clear water for about 10 minutes. Place it on blotting
paper with the front side down, leaving the back wet. Varnish the
glass again, and place the picture face down on the varnished surface,
pressing out the bubbles, working from the center out. Rub on the back
of the transfer paper until the picture is transferred to the varnished
surface, and remove the paper carefully. Permit the picture on the
glass to dry, and then varnish it.
An Order-Memo Device for Delivery Routes
A milk driver who had many extra orders of milk and cream to deliver
had considerable difficulty in keeping track of the orders. He overcame
this difficulty by the use of a clip attached to the steering wheel of
his truck. He got a spring clothespin, wired one side of it to one of
the spokes of the steering wheel, and now places his extra orders in a
ring attached to the clip, as they come on his route. When he makes a
delivery, he moves the memo on the ring, bringing the next order before
him. This method can be used in many other businesses, where articles
such as newspapers are delivered on routes.--Francis W. Nunenmacher,
Berkeley, California.
* * * * *
¶To counteract mildew on canvas, coat the parts with soap and rub
well with powdered chalk or whiting.
Model Paddle-Wheel Boats
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 3
FIG. 2
The Rubber-Band Motor is Wound Up at the Crank, and Propels the Boat
About 20 Feet]
Only a few boys have ponds of their own, in a pasture, perhaps. But
there are miniature lakes in our city parks, pools at our summer camps,
and old water holes in the woods; if all of these fail, a boy can
still sail his ships on the bathtub sea. A simple side-wheeler, built
of wood, is shown in the sketch. It winds up with a crank and runs
15 to 20 ft. A float is made by pointing the ends of a thick board,
the dimensions of which are given in Fig. 1. On this the paddle-wheel
frame is nailed, as shown in the top view, Fig. 1, the side view, Fig.
2, and the end view, Fig. 3. It is made of thin wood. A broom-handle
section, just long enough to slip into this frame, is whittled to form
a winding drum, and fitted with paddles, wire axles, and a crank. A
second shorter section of the broom-handle, set between blocks nailed
to the stern, serves as a roller for the rubber bands. These, linked
together and tied to a length of heavy cord, as shown in Fig. 1, are
fixed to the bow and run over the roller to the drum. The addition of a
top, or lid, of cardboard, wood, or tin, and painted to resemble cabins
and pilot house, and fitted with masts and a smokestack, completes
the model. Fig. 5 shows a similarly built stern-wheeler with the
stern-wheel shaft set on brackets.--E. R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.
[Illustration: FIG. 5
The Stern-Wheeler Is Similar in Construction to the Side-Wheeler as to
Driving Mechanism]
A Small Thresher of Practical Use
Buckwheat, oats, wheat, morning-glory seeds, and other grains and
seeds, were successfully cleaned with a model thresher of simple design
which I made from materials picked up in and around the farm workshop.
It is 24 in. high, 14 in. wide, and 3¹⁄₂ ft. long. For a cylinder, I
used a roller, 3 in. in diameter and 1 ft. long. The teeth are nails
driven spirally about the cylinder in rows that alternate with similar
teeth in the concave, the nails being driven ¹⁄₂ in. apart. The fan
consists of a small roller upon which four pieces of tin are nailed.
The beaters are larger rollers, into which wooden teeth are set. To
hold the cylinder, fan, and beaters in place, four posts and two
crosspieces were used, as shown.
[Illustration: Made as a Model, This Small Thresher Proved Useful for
Various Grains and Seeds]
The power used is an 8-ft. windmill that I constructed, using a buggy
wheel as the frame. The cylinder must be run at a fairly high speed,
the fan nearly as fast, and the beaters may be run much slower; this is
taken care of by the relative size of the pulleys. The screen between
the fan and beaters must be of small mesh so that grain will not fall
through into the fan chamber. The sieve through which the grain drops
must be the proper size for grain, and can be varied for the different
kinds of grain or seed threshed. It is better to put only the heads of
grain into the thresher, as long straws twist about the rollers. The
material to be threshed is fed into the cylinder in the usual manner,
and takes its course as indicated by the arrows, the grain falling to
the spout at the bottom, and the straw and chaff being blown out at the
exhaust for it. Soft wood was used in the construction, ⁷⁄₈-in. stock
for the heavier pieces, and ³⁄₈ or ¹⁄₄-in. stock for the other parts.
The curved housing for the fan was made of tin. Leather or rope belts,
fitted tightly, may be used. The power is applied on the cylinder
pulley, hand or other power being suitable.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, N.
Y.
Moth-Ball Puzzle as Window-Advertising Novelty
A druggist recently puzzled thousands with a novel window display. A
small white ball in a 1-in. glass tube, about 10 in. long, displayed
in a show window, would sink to the bottom, then slowly ascend, only
to sink as before. A sign reading “What Makes It Move?” kept the crowd
guessing. The tube was apparently filled with water. The construction
is simple. The tube is about three-quarters full of carbonated soda
water. The white ball is an ordinary moth ball. The ball sinks, and
when it becomes soaked gradually as it lowers, bubbles of gas cling
to it, carrying it to the top of the solution. There the gas escapes,
destroying the ball’s buoyancy, and causing it to sink again, This
process is repeated over and over.--David J. Lonergan, Minneapolis,
Minnesota.
Record-Cleaning Pad Fixed to Talking Machine
[Illustration]
By providing a practical method of keeping talking-machine records
free from dust automatically, as they are played, the life of the
record is prolonged and the reproductions are more clear, and free from
scratching sounds. A felt pad supported on a fixture made of a strip of
brass does the work nicely. The pad is clamped in a clip at the end of
the brass strip, and the entire device is held in place by the spring
action of the upper clip, which fits over the end of the reproducing
arm. The pad or the whole device can be slipped out of place quickly.
Novel Uses for Safety Pins
[Illustration: TO ROAST POTATO OVER OVEN GRATE
TIN-PAIL EAR
CARD SUPPORT
SCREEN-DOOR SPRING REPAIR
EYE FOR FISH-HOOK SINKER
HOLDS BUGGY CURTAIN OVER TORN BUTTON-HOLE
SPRING HINGE FOR BOX
DRY-BATTERY CONNECTOR
These Eight Examples of How an Ordinary Safety Pin can be Used for
Practical Purposes Are Suggestive of Many Others]
It is surprising to note how many uses can be made of an ordinary
safety pin, both as an emergency-repair device, and for other purposes.
I found 40 simple uses for safety pins, a few of which are shown
in the illustration. Some of the many other uses are as a chain, a
candle holder, a spring, a cover holder for a kettle, and as a pencil
clip. Most of these can be made by twisting the safety pin with a
small plier. By using a cutting plier, many more useful kinks can be
devised.--George G. McVicker, North Bend, Neb.
Moving Heavy Objects with a Broom
[Illustration: The Broom Is Slippery and Rides over the Floor or Even
Carpets without Trouble]
After trying to move a heavy trunk alone, the attempt is usually
given up until some friend can be called in to lend a hand, because a
truck or other means of handling such heavy objects is not at hand.
An ordinary sweeping broom will serve as a sled to move a stove or
similar object in the home without heavy lifting. The straw in the
broom is slippery and can be drawn over carpets without injuring them.
In handling a stove, the legs must of course be removed, one person
drawing the load and the other steadying it.--Samuel H. Avery, Chicago,
Ill.
Rear Seat for Motorcycle or Bicycle
[Illustration: This Light-Weight Homemade Rear-Seat Fixture Is a
Convenience for a Strong Bicycle or Motorcycle]
A rear seat mounted on a light support that can be quickly attached
to a strong bicycle or a motorcycle is handy, and one like that shown
in the sketch can be made in the home workshop. The supporting frame,
consisting of two main sections forming a fork over the rear axle, and
a brace extending to the bicycle frame, are made of ¹⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄-in.
strap iron. The seat and the handlebars are supported on posts of the
usual type, flattened at their lower ends, and riveted to the fixture.
The lower ends of the fork are bent to form foot rests. The detailed
construction of the seat post and the method of clamping the brace at
A are shown in the smaller sketches. The fastenings on the seat and
handlebar posts are made with rivets or bolts.--P. P. Avery, Garfield,
N. J.
Changing Wheels Equalizes Wear on Baby-Cab Tires
The front and rear wheels of a baby cab are usually of the same size
and the tires on the rear wheels are worn much more rapidly than those
on the front wheels. By changing the position of the wheels, the wear
on the tires is equalized, making it unnecessary to renew them until
all are worn out.--J. Cecil Alter, Cheyenne, Wyo.
A Craftsman Leather Billfold
BY LIVINGSTON HAVILAND
The making of a billfold is easily within the range of an amateur
in leather work, who will observe the instructions carefully. Seal,
morocco, pigskin, and ooze sheep are satisfactory. Skiver, or thin
leather, and silk moiré make suitable linings. When the processes
involved in the making of the billfold are mastered, numerous other
small articles in leather will suggest themselves, and can be made
similarly.
[Illustration: Fig. 1. Place the Pattern on the Leather and Trim It to
Size Even with the Edges of the Pattern]
The finished billfold is shown with the cardcase side up; folded, and
with the bill compartment open, in Fig. 2. Begin the making of it by
cutting a pattern of stiff cardboard for the main portion, or body part
No. 1, as shown in Fig. 1.
Make a second pattern for body part No. 2, as shown in Fig. 1. Trim the
leather to fit the patterns, a straight edge of metal being placed over
the pattern as a guide for the knife. A close-grained hardwood board,
or a piece of sheet zinc, is suitable as a base for cutting the leather.
Cut pieces of lining slightly larger than the patterns. If skiver is
used, it must be glued to the leather with a good quality of leather
glue, which should be pliable so as not to crack the leather. Do not
stretch the lining, but merely smooth it gently, as otherwise it may
cause the leather to buckle. Place the glued parts under a light weight
to dry. In fitting the silk lining into place, apply a thin stripe
of glue around the edges only, and permit them to extend beyond the
leather. Then trim them off neatly.
Part No. 1 is to be folded to form the back of the billfold and also
the two pockets for cards. The parts are glued as shown in Fig. 3.
Weight the billfold and permit the glue to dry. The sewing may then be
undertaken.
[Illustration: Fig. 2. The Photographs Show the Cardcase Side, the
Folded Billfold, and the Silk-Lined Money Compartment]
[Illustration: Fig. 3. Glue the Parts Together Carefully along the
Edges, and Fold the Ends as Indicated]
The neatness of the billfold will depend largely on the care with
which the sewing is done, and the finish on the edges. Draw a straight
line with a blunt-point tool along the edges to be sewed, ³⁄₁₆ in.
from them. Mark the spacing for an inch of the stitches on a strip of
paper and transfer them to the stitching line. Punch the holes, making
certain that each is made with the awl held vertical, as shown at D.
Back the open ends with strips of cardboard when punching holes in
them. Heavy, waxed silk of a color to match the leather is used for the
sewing. The work may be done by hand without a holder, clamped between
two boards. Thread the two needles and start them from the right side,
as at E. Pass the needle from the first hole through the second as at
F. With the needles then in position, as at G, continue this stitch.
Tie the ends of the thread neatly at the end of the stitching. Trim the
edges and tool them to a smooth finish with a suitable metal tool, or
rod, heated moderately, applying water with the finger tip.
* * * * *
¶The taper of a key is generally ¹⁄₈ in. per foot of length, and keys
having a head are preferable because of greater ease in removing
them. The width of a key is usually ¹⁄₄ the diameter of the shaft,
plus ¹⁄₈ inch.
Lawn Mower Sharpened Efficiently with Simple Rigging
[Illustration: The Lawn Mower is Sharpened Quickly by the Use of This
Rigging]
With this device, one can quickly sharpen the lawn mower, or perhaps
earn money sharpening the neighbors’ machines. Because several knives
in a lawn mower work against the cutting blade, it is difficult to
sharpen a mower satisfactorily with a file or stone. A usual method
is to reverse the cutting-wheel cogs, turn the mower upside down, and
run it backward over the ground. By the use of grinding paste on the
cutting blade the cutting wheel tends to sharpen itself. This process
can be improved by supporting the mower, as shown at A, the blocks
permitting the mower’s driving wheels to rest outside them. A block, B,
supports the wooden roller. Remove the driving wheels, and the gears
which turn the cutting wheel. Take the gear from one end and put it in
the other end, replacing the driving wheel. By revolving the latter
backward, the cutting wheel will also turn backward. Apply a paste of
emery powder and lubricating oil to the cutting blade, and adjust the
blade so that it comes fairly into contact with the cutting wheel. Turn
the driving wheel backward, and gradually tighten the adjustment until
a good edge on the cutting blade and the knives is produced.
A handle fixed on the driving wheel, as shown at C, makes turning
it easier. After sharpening, replace the gears, clean the bearings
thoroughly, and replace the driving wheels.--Ed. M. Hawes, Everett,
Wash.
Rubber Pads for Opening Screw Watch Bezel
The modern screw case for watches is primarily for the purpose of
keeping dust from getting into the delicate works. Unless one is
possessed of a strong grip, it is hard not only to set the case tight
enough to keep out dust, but also to open the watch when adjustment is
necessary. To make this work easy, a jeweler has, as a part of his tool
kit, several rubber dies to fit the different sizes of watch cases. He
made them from old rubber heels, cut to fit the watch cases closely.
Danger of breaking the crystal is also overcome.--C. E. Drayer,
Cleveland, Ohio.
Spring Roost Releases Poultry-House Door Latch
[Illustration: The Door is Opened Automatically When the Fowl Leave
Their Roost]
Those in the habit of shutting their poultry houses at night to prevent
disturbance or loss by night-prowling animals, will be interested
in a contrivance that makes this unnecessary. The principle of the
mechanism, as illustrated is that the opening to the poultry house is
closed after the fowls have gone to roost, and in the morning when they
descend from the roost, the door automatically opens, and they are free
to go out. The spring door opens inside with hinges at the side, and a
suitable bumper. The spring has just sufficient tension to cause the
door to open when the catch is released.
The roost is fitted up as shown in the detail. One end is held by a
bolt, while the other rests on a coil spring compressed by the weight
of the fowls on the roost. A cord is attached at the spring end,
passing through pulleys to the door, where it is fastened to the end of
the bolt catch. The door is closed after the fowls are on the roost.
The spring end is compressed to a level position, by their weight.
The instant the birds leave the roost, it rises and pulls the cord,
releasing the catch, and permitting the door to open.--George S. Brown,
Norwich, Conn.
A Child’s Bell-Ringing Hoop
[Illustration]
In making this useful toy, first, a wheel from an old baby carriage
was stripped of the tire; then two laths are fastened together at one
end, and the wheel inserted between them, at the other end, and held
by a bolt. A strong cord was passed around the groove in the wheel,
and around a spool, nailed so as to turn on the side of the lath when
the wheel is rotated. Driven into the rim of the spool are three
nails, which strike against the old alarm-clock bell, fastened as
indicated.--W. F. MacGregor, Toronto, Can.
Emergency Camp Stoves Quickly Made
[Illustration: Boys at a Summer Camp Kept Themselves Busy during a Cold
Spell by Making These Stoves]
While conducting a boys’ camp in summer we experienced a severe
sleet storm. Our tents were not equipped with stoves and I faced a
double problem: to keep the boys warm and to keep them contented. The
difficulty was solved by having them construct emergency camp stoves,
as shown, using iron stovepipe, and other material at hand. One length
of pipe is laid under the side of the tent about 4 in. in the ground,
as in Fig. 1. An elbow mounted in sod connects with the chimney. A
stone at the front of the stove regulates the draft, and stones placed
upon the pipe hold the heat. The arrangement diagrammed in Fig. 2
is built with one length of pipe or a stone conduit. A hole is dug
into the ground, about 10 in. deep. Over this is placed a pan, and
an opening is made at the front for the fuel. The chimney is made of
stones and sticks picked up around the camp, and plastered with mud.
Coffee may be boiled or small cooking done on this stove.--William H.
Leach, Alden, N. Y.
Pruning and Brush-Cutting Knife
[Illustration]
With the blade of an old beef cutter and a stout wood handle, I
fashioned a brush knife that is superior to a sickle for cutting down
heavy weeds. The blade was secured in a slotted handle by a screw and
rivet, and the top of the handle wired as an additional security. A
blade of this sort is handy, also, for pruning purposes.--J. M. Kane,
Doylestown, Pa.
Plier Drives Nails in Backing Picture Frame
[Illustration]
The fastening of a picture into a frame by the use of brads, or tacks,
driven into the frame behind the backing is often done carelessly,
because it is difficult to do a neat job with an ordinary hammer. A
much better way of driving in these nails is to use a plier, as shown.
Protect the edge of the frame with a layer or two of cardboard, and
start the nail carefully, forcing it in by steady pressure on the plier
handles.
Clip Holds Flash Lamp on Handlebar as Headlight
[Illustration]
An ordinary pocket flash light makes a satisfactory headlight for
a bicycle if fitted to the handlebar with a suitable clip. The
arrangement shown makes it possible to remove the light quickly for use
in the usual manner. The clip, as detailed, is of spring brass and is
clamped over the post of the handlebar.--P. P. Avery, Garfield, N. J.
A Backwoodsman’s Nutcracker
[Illustration]
Most persons know what a difficult job it is to crack hickory nuts,
unless provided with a suitable hammer, or other tool, for the purpose.
When nut hunting, such tools are usually not at hand, and a method used
by an old backwoodsman will be of interest. First he cut a hickory
limb, about 2 in. thick and 3 ft. long. In the center of the limb, he
cut a square notch, about halfway through, and just large enough to
admit a nut. Then placing one end of the limb on the ground, the other
end held in the left hand, he placed a nut in the notch, and bent the
limb slightly. This brought the edges of the notch closer together, and
cracked the nut neatly.--C. M. Vaiden, Portland, Ore.
Handy Tool for Tightening Wire Spokes in Wheels
[Illustration]
The wire spokes in bicycle and similar wheels often become loose, and
a small pocket device for tightening them on the road is handy. A
satisfactory one can be made quickly from a washer, 2 in. in diameter,
cut as shown. A tapering slot is cut to the center of the washer to
engage the nipples of various-sized spokes. The outer circumference of
the washer is filed with a triangular file to provide a good finger
grip.--H. E. Randell, Boston, Mass.
Bottle Economizes Spray Liquid in Atomizer
[Illustration]
Atomizers are sometimes provided with delivery tubes the lower ends
of which are ¹⁄₄ in. or more above the bottom of the reservoir, thus
rendering useless considerable of the spraying liquid. To overcome this
waste, in the case of expensive sprays, a small homeopathic vial was
filled with the liquid from the bottom of the reservoir, and lowered
into the bottle, as shown. The delivery tube of the atomizer was set
into the vial, and the cap screwed on. By this means almost every drop
of the spraying fluid was utilized.--Carl L. Hartshorn, West Haven,
Conn.
A Small Rotary Pump Easily Made
[Illustration: The Rotating Spools Press against the Water Hose and
Force the Water from It at Increased Pressure]
This small power pump is made from a block of wood, a piece of rubber
hose, and a 5-arm rotor of brass, with small spools attached to it.
The base of the casing is 6 in. square, and of ⁷⁄₈-in. wood. A ³⁄₄-in.
triangular block is set at each corner, and a ¹⁄₈-in. cover of wood,
fastened at the four corners with screws. A large nail is used as a
shaft for the rotor, which is cut from brass, ¹⁄₃₂ to ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick.
Small spools are mounted on the arms of the rotor, and the small pulley
wheel is fixed on the end of the axle. The action is simple: As the
rollers on the arms revolve against the hose, the force of the stream
at the discharge end is increased, the device acting as a pump. Such an
arrangement was used for moving targets in a rifle range, and can be
built on a larger scale if desired. A small water, or electric, motor
is used to drive the pump.--S. A. Hardy, St. Paul, Minn.
Cleaning Type Cases with Bicycle Pump
Type cases can be cleaned easily by using a bicycle pump, which will
blow the dust out. Typewriters and other small machinery can also be
cleaned this way. A long hose used with a foot pump is often preferable
to the hand pump.
Weighted Rope Holds Flag Upright
[Illustration: This Weighted Rope Permits the Flag to Fly in Its
Natural Position]
A householder devised a simple and effective method of keeping the flag
upright when displayed from a nearly horizontal flagstaff. The cord
which held the flag was run through pulleys, as indicated, and weighted
with a pulley weight.--M. T. Kanary, Chicago, Illinois.
Homemade Gate Sign with Metal Letters
[Illustration: The Metal Letters were Quickly Made and Are Durable as
Well as Neat]
Needing a permanent sign to be mounted on an iron gate, I made one of
metal, which is more durable and better-looking than most wooden or
other common signs that the home mechanic can make. I used sheet metal
and marked out the letters to cut them from the smallest possible
strip, by reversing some of them. They were cut out with snips and
chisels, and the edges filed smooth. The letters were then soldered
to heavy wires, which were bolted to the gate by means of sheet-metal
straps and bolts, as shown. The letters should be polished from time
to time, especially if made from brass or copper.--Hugo Kretschmar,
Brooklyn, N. Y.
Reinforcing the Ends of Rubber Handlebar Grips
The flexible rubber grips used on bicycles and motorcycles have good
shock-absorbing qualities, but they have a tendency to break off at
the end of the handlebar. They may be reinforced by a small stick
projecting from the end of the handlebar tubing. One end of the stick
is cut to fit tightly in the opening, and the other to fit the flexible
end of the grip.--George M. Zimmerman, Fort Sumner, N. M.
Film Holder for Photographic Developing
[Illustration]
The amateur photographer who uses roll film and who does his developing
by the tray method, will find this device a simple and reliable means
for holding the film spool while removing the film, duplex paper,
autographic carbon paper, gummed labels, etc. Once the spool is
properly placed in the holder, there is little danger of its dropping.
The holder takes various sizes of film spools. The side fingers are
³⁄₁₆ by ³⁄₄ by 23 in. long. A small peg is set in each finger, 1¹⁄₈ in.
from the end, to engage the spool. The upper ends of the fingers are
nailed to a tapered block of wood, ⁷⁄₈ by 3¹⁄₄ and 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, and
8 in. long. The holder can be conveniently fastened to a wall, door
casing, or to the under side of a shelf in the dark room.--John Hoeck,
Alameda, Calif.
Old Sink Installed as Dish-Draining Basin
[Illustration: The Extra Sink Replaces the Drain Board and Does Its
Work More Effectively]
An added convenience for the housewife is the installation, in the
place of the drain board customarily attached to the kitchen sink, of
a second sink, with waste connections. Light wooden slats in the sink
bottom give it all the utility of a drain board, without the danger of
dishes slipping off onto the floor. A sink, of the old-fashioned kind
used, can be purchased about as cheaply as a good drain board.--E. C.
Blomeyer, Waco, Tex.
Desk-Light Arm Folds into Pigeonhole
[Illustration: This Desk Lamp and Holder Folds Up into a Pigeonhole
When Not in Use]
The extension arm for an electric lamp shown in the illustration was
made of strips from steel building toys. I installed it in my writing
desk, and fastened it with one screw to the back of the desk inside the
pigeonhole. When collapsed the arm measures 7¹⁄₂ in. from the fastened
end to the front end of the socket, leaving only the globe protruding.
Extended, it measures 16¹⁄₂ in. The lamp cord is taken through a hole
in the back of the desk. If a very rigid arm is wanted, the strips can
be doubled. I used screws with two nuts, but rivets can be used also,
leaving the joints to move freely. The sliding feature at the inner end
adds about 2 in. to the length of the arm when extended.--A. J. Viken,
Waterloo, Ia.
A Soldier’s or Traveler’s Kit for Sundries and Toilet Articles
[Illustration: The Soldier Appreciates a Handy Folding Kit, Especially
If the Girl He Left Behind Made It]
A soldier’s kit approved by a colonel of the national guard because
of its compactness, can be made easily of a band of khaki cloth. The
kit, including the “housewife,” requires cloth, 27 in. wide. Cut 12 in.
from one end for the housewife, which is 12 by 5 in. wide. To make the
housewife, fold under the edges ¹⁄₄ in., and fold one end over 2¹⁄₂ in.
and the other 1¹⁄₂ in. for pockets. In the larger center pocket can be
placed court plaster, adhesive tape, photographs, letters, etc. Bind
the edges ¹⁄₄ in., and form other pockets, as shown. The entire kit
weighs 1¹⁄₄ lb. and can be carried by the soldier in his army blanket.
The housewife, if necessary, can be removed and taken to the firing
line. Handy articles to be fitted in the kit are mirror that can be
hung up, comb, box of talcum powder, cold cream, tooth paste, pencil,
wash cloth, soaps, shaving brush, toothbrush, and scissors. Three
safety pins at the top of the bag enable it to be hung up in the tent.
Strong binding tapes are sewed to the bag, and it can be folded handily
in three sections.--Kate Thomen, Topeka, Kans.
Cooling Foodstuffs with a Moist Rag and a Draft
It is not always necessary to keep milk and butter, or other
foodstuffs, in refrigerator temperature to preserve hem, for 50 or 60°
will often serve quite as well where the articles are to be consumed
within a short time. To accomplish this slight degree of cooling,
wrap a moist linen cloth, single thickness, snugly about the dish or
package, and place it in a shallow pan of water, in an open window,
out of the sun. The brick of butter should be placed on a support to
hold it out of the water. The cooling is due to evaporation from the
moist cloth. Not infrequently on a warm summer day, a thermometer with
a bulb, wetted as suggested, will be 20° cooler in a breeze, than a
dry-bulb thermometer.
* * * * *
¶A table of decimal equivalents, or other information can be mounted
in shellac, at an angle to be easily read, at the head of a T-square,
and is quite convenient.
Device Quarters and Cores Apples and Other Fruit
[Illustration]
To provide a simple homemade device for cutting apples and other fruit
into quarters and at the same time removing the core, the arrangement
shown in the sketch was made. The circular frame is built up around
a ring, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, and the ribs and handles are soldered
to it. A strip of galvanised iron, ¹⁄₂ in. wide, was used for the
cutting portion, and the lower edge was filed sharp, and then finished
with a small oil stone. In use, the cutter is set over the fruit, as
shown, and by pressure on the handles, it is cut neatly.--L. N. Brown,
Baltimore, Md.
Detachable Motor-Driven Tire Pump Made of Foot Pump
[Illustration]
To make this motor-driven pump, which I use with considerable success,
I fitted a bicycle foot pump to a stand, arranging it to be detached
quickly. A 4-in. wooden disk was cut in two, and one-half bolted to the
stirrup of the pump. A wheel, 14 in. in diameter and 2 in. thick, was
mounted on a 2 by 6-in. support, as shown. A crankpin at the outer edge
of the large wheel was connected to the plunger of the pump. The latter
may be run with an electric motor, belted as indicated, or with other
power. I use a small homemade water motor described in “Shop Notes,”
with excellent results.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.
Fisherman’s Pail with Wire-Mesh Cage
[Illustration]
Oftentimes the fisherman takes a pail along on a fishing excursion so
that he may bring back his catch alive, to put it in a water tank, or
to keep the fish fresh. The water in an ordinary pail soon becomes
stale, and the fish may die before he reaches home. They should be
kept in the water of the lake or stream until the fisherman goes home.
A good means of caring for them, superior to the common string, is to
make a wire-mesh container, to fit inside the water pail, as shown.
The mesh form can be lifted out, carrying with it all of the fish in
the pail, and be set in the fresh water.--Dale R. Van Horn, Milton,
Wisconsin.
Reinforcing a Strained Auto-Truck Frame
The side member of an automobile-truck frame was overstrained, and
started to sag. To replace it with a new channel piece was out of the
question, so it was decided to repair the trouble. A piece of ³⁄₁₆-in.
plate steel was cut to the proper length, in a truss-shape, wider at
the middle than at the ends, to carry the load properly. It was riveted
to the strained member by means of ⁵⁄₁₆-in. round-head rivets, and
prevented further sagging.
Drying Rack for Shoes and Rubbers
[Illustration]
Footgear is injured when not properly dried out after use in water or
in rough weather, and to care for the shoes, rubbers, etc., I made a
rack fitted behind a stove on which they are dried out quickly and
thoroughly. The rack consists of a row of brackets made of strap iron,
bent as shown in the sketch, and the shoes are slipped on them. The
brackets are mounted on a strip of wood, which is fastened to the
wall with screws. A thin piece of board or sheet metal protects the
wall.--Edgar Morgan, Robbinsdale, Minn.
Keeping Scissors Blades Apart Lengthens Their Service
Scissors will wear better and keep their cutting edges longer, if
they are kept hanging up with the blades apart when not in use. The
better-grade scissors, especially the longer pairs, are made with
each blade slightly bowed, so that in cutting, the edges cross at an
angle near the cutting point. Keeping them closed tends to weaken the
springiness of the blades, and the points are worn by contact under
tension.--John M. Bonbright, Philadelphia, Pa.
Making Lead Soldiers and Similar Small Castings
BY E. R. GARFIELD
The boy who likes to play games in which the lead soldier and other
features of imitation warfare have a part, can make his own lead
soldiers, and other castings, by the use of a plaster-of-Paris mold.
If he cannot undertake this work alone, the process is interesting for
his older brother, or even for “daddy.” A mold of plaster of Paris,
as shown in the illustration, is used for the casting box. The hollow
impression of the soldier is filled with the molten lead, which is
poured in through the sprue hole at the top. When the lead cools, the
mold is opened, the casting removed, and the process repeated. An
entire army can thus be made with a single mold.
First obtain a small lead soldier, and coat it with shellac. Make a
box somewhat larger than the pattern for the soldier, as shown in the
sketch. Make it about 1¹⁄₂ in. deep, and set bolts near the corners,
as shown, pouring the plaster around them. Fill the box half full of
plaster of Paris. While still soft, press the pattern into the center
of the plaster so that half its thickness is imbedded. Permit the under
mold to dry, and remove the pattern. Shellac the surface of the plaster
and the impression. Wrap a layer of oiled paper around the bolts.
Replace the pattern in the impression and fill the remaining half of
the box with plaster, and permit it to dry.
Also make a small wooden plug, and set it in the center, its point
touching the pattern, and pour the plaster around it. When the mold is
dry remove this plug, thus forming the sprue hole, through which the
molten lead is poured into the mold.
[Illustration: Lead Soldiers, and Many Other Small Castings, can be
Made by the Use of This Plaster-of-Paris Mold]
When the second part of the mold is dry, lift it carefully from the
under mold, and remove the pattern. Shellac the surface of the top
mold, cleaning away any small bits of plaster around the edges. Trim
down the box so that the top mold projects over it about ³⁄₈ in.,
making it easy to drop the top mold into place over the bolts. To
use the mold, make certain that it is clean inside and set the top
into place. Fasten down the wing nuts at the washers. Be very careful
that the mold is dry, as hot metal poured on a wet surface may cause
a dangerous splash. Repeat this process, and if care is taken about
300 castings can be made with one mold. The soldiers can be painted
suitably and even sold in sets. The process can be adapted to many
forms of other small castings, using other suitable metals, or wax,
where the casting is to be molded into shape further.
A Trap Nest for the Poultry House
[Illustration: The Trap Nest Automatically Closes as the Hen Enters the
Nest Box, Releasing the Trigger]
Poultry raisers find a trap nest useful, and one can be made quickly
by fitting an old packing box with a suitable sliding gate. In the
arrangement shown, the gate is raised slightly as the hen enters the
nest box, releasing the spring and causing the gate to drop. The gate
and spring can be adjusted to various-sized breeds of poultry. The two
grooved uprights can be cut from flooring and the other wooden parts
made from laths or wooden strips. The trigger is made of wire.--A. J.
Call, Hartsville, Mass.
A Simple Wireless Detector
[Illustration: This Neat Wireless Detector was Made of Materials Easily
Gathered in the Boy’s Workshop]
A cheap and serviceable wireless detector was made from odds and ends
such as any amateur can obtain. The base was made of wood, saturated
in paraffin. The mineral cup is a brass cap from a cartridge fuse. The
upright was made of a piece of copper, ¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂ in. long, and is
fastened to the base by an old-battery binding post. The spring which
supports the cat whisker is made of a strip of copper, ¹⁄₃₂ in. by ³⁄₁₆
in. wide. The cat whisker is soldered to the spring, and the spring
is bolted to the upright. The setscrew, which regulates the pressure
of the cat whisker upon the mineral, works in a nut, soldered over
a hole in the top of the upright. The cat whisker is made of No. 22
gauge bare copper wire. The connection between the cup and the battery
binding post, at the front edge, is made on the under side of the
base.--Charles Brinkmann, Chicago, Ill.
A Wire-Screen Pincushion
[Illustration: Pins Placed in This Durable Desk Pincushion Arrange
Themselves in Vertical Position, Head Up]
Pins placed in a pincushion like that shown automatically arrange
themselves vertically, head up, so that they may be removed handily
when needed. The pincushion is durable, and a useful device for the
desk. It is made by binding two layers of ordinary screen wire between
wooden frames, mounted on a wooden base, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, 2¹⁄₂ in. wide,
and 3¹⁄₂ in. long. The frame can be finished neatly, and made of hard
wood to match other desk fittings.--D. J. McKean, San Francisco, Calif.
Straightening Sheets of Paper
When a sheet of paper, a drawing, or a blueprint becomes curved or
warped, it is annoying to use the sheet unless it is straightened.
An easy method of doing this is to lay the sheet flat on the edge of
a drawing board or table and draw it down over the edge, the hand
pressing down on the paper, stretching it out. This, repeated several
times, will soon smooth a much-curled sheet.
Emergency Tension Weight Used on Typewriter
If the band that draws the typewriter carriage should break, the
operator can continue to write until proper repairs are made by a
temporary substitute for the spring tension. Tie a string to the
carriage, where it will not become entangled in the mechanism, and
attach a weight, about equal to the pull of the spring, to the string.
Let the weight hang over the edge of the desk, to the left of the
machine. It will pull the carriage along, as does the usual tension
device.
Improvised Penholder Made with Pencil and Clip
[Illustration]
An ordinary pencil clip can be used to make a practical penholder by
sliding it to the end of the pencil, as shown, and inserting the pen
under it. The tension of the clip holds the pen firmly, and provides a
serviceable holder, for emergency use, or even for permanent use, where
a pen and pencil combined are desired.--Raymond B. Rogers, Portland,
Ore.
Generator Attachment Provides Current for Bicycle Lamp
Rigging up a small dynamo on the bicycle is a simple job, the dynamo
being belted from a friction pulley, making connections with the rubber
tire of the rear wheel, as shown. Fig. 1 shows the make-up of the head
lamp. It is composed of a tin cylinder, grooved at one end to hold the
lens; at the other end of the cylinder is fastened a ³⁄₄-in. wooden
disk, to which the lamp socket is fixed. Clamp straps hold the lamp
on the fork frame. The small lamp, inserted in the socket, holds the
reflector in place.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
The Dynamo is Operated by a Belt Arrangement Connected to the Rear
Wheel, and Supplies Light, and, if Desired, Operates a Horn]
The dynamo-driving arrangement is shown in Fig. 2, and detailed in
Fig. 3. A leather belt fits in the groove side of the wooden pulley.
The swinging pulley arm supports and clamps the driving arrangement. A
spring holds the friction wheel against the tire, and to release it,
the “off” lever is used. A small direct-current dynamo serves well,
and may also be used to operate the horn and whistle.--G. F. Thompson,
Pittsburgh, Pa.
Eccentric Drawbolt Stops Rattling of Door
[Illustration: The Eccentric End on the Drawbolt Holds the Door Firmly,
Preventing Rattling]
A simple method of preventing a bolted door from rattling, by forcing
it against the doorstop, or a weather strip, by means of an eccentric
filed on the socket end of the bolt, is shown in the sketch. The bolt
is fitted closely to the door and casing, and, when the bolt is turned
so that the eccentric end is in action, the door is forced firmly
against the doorstop.--C. H. Chambers, Schenectady, N. Y.
Handy Kink in Addressing Mailing Tubes
[Illustration]
The job of addressing a large number of mailing tubes is an awkward
one, unless the tube is set so that its upper edge is on a level with
the hand. A convenient method of doing this, and a kink which is
permanently useful where mailing tubes are to be addressed from time to
time, is to arrange ordinary coat hooks at the side of the desk near
the front corner, as shown. The tube is placed on the hooks, its upper
edge even with the top of the desk, making the writing of the address
as handy as in writing ordinarily.
A Flash-Light Egg-Candling Device
[Illustration]
A pocket electric flash light can be easily used for testing eggs if
equipped in the following manner: Take an ordinary tin funnel and cut
off the spout so the small end will fit snugly over the lens of the
flash light. Prepare the larger end of the funnel to accommodate a
tin-can cover, so the cover will fit tight. Cut out the face of the
cover, leaving a ¹⁄₂-in. rim all around, and file the edge. Then cut
a 1-in. hole in a piece of felt, place it over the large end of the
funnel, and force the cover over it. This may be quickly slipped on and
off the flash light and carried in the pocket. The egg to be tested is
placed on the felt, over the opening, and the lamp held vertically, the
operator looking down on the egg.
Simple Arrangement for Releasing Camera Shutter from Distance
It is usually disappointing to the amateur photographer, when taking
pictures of groups of which he is a member, not to be able to be in the
pictures. However, most amateurs can construct a release arrangement,
in a few minutes, that operates with satisfaction. A clothespin of the
clip type is used. The spring should be weakened by bending it from
the wood, so that it has just enough tension to bring the jaws of the
clothespin together without a snap. Whittle the inner sides of the
handles, as shown, so that the jaws accommodate the plunger of the
shutter. Then saw a slot in the handles, ¹⁄₄ in. deep and ¹⁄₈ in. wide.
Drill a ³⁄₁₆-in. hole in the whittled depression of one of the jaws,
and cut a ¹⁄₈-in. slot to it, as shown. The small trigger piece is cut
of hard wood. It should fit its slot snugly, at the other end of the
pin.
[Illustration]
The release device is operated as follows: Slip the plunger tube, with
the shutter release cable, into its slot. Keeping the jaws wide open,
place the trigger in the slots of the two compressed handles. It is
only necessary to jerk a thread attached to the trigger to free the
two handles, which in turn snap the plunger. If the tension on the
jaws is too strong, put a rubber band around the handles to act as a
check.--Werner W. Baumeister, Walla Walla, Wash.
A Crossbow Magazine Gun
[Illustration: The Arrows are Stacked in the Magazine and Fired in
Succession by the Bowstring Released at the Trigger]
A new type of bow gun that a boy can make, and which will give him
plenty of good sport, is one of the repeating or magazine variety. To
make the gun, cut a soft pine board, 40 in. long and 5 in. wide. With
a saw and knife, cut the gun form as shown. Cut a groove along the
top of the barrel, where the arrow will lie ready to be shot out when
the hickory bow is released. The magazine holding the five arrows is
made of thin boards, 24 in. long, and is held in place by four small
strips. The magazine is 3 in. deep, thus permitting the five arrows to
lie evenly in it without crowding. The bow is of seasoned hickory and
is set into the end of the barrel. The notch in which the bowstring
catches, should be cut just under the rear end of the magazine. The
trigger is an L-shaped, pivoted piece, and pushes the cord off the
notch when ready to fire. As soon as the first arrow leaves the gun
the one just above it drops down into the groove when the bowstring is
again pulled back into place behind the notch. Pressure on the trigger
shoots this arrow, another takes its place, and the cord is pulled back
once more. The arrows should be of light pine, 22 in. long and ¹⁄₂ in.
square, the rear end notched and the front pointed. To make the arrow
shoot in a straight course, and to give it proper weight, the head end
should be bored with a ³⁄₁₆ in. bit, 3 in. deep, and melted lead run
into the hole.--E. F. Dalton, Cincinnati, Ohio.
* * * * *
¶Ruling pens often work improperly, or have a tendency to cut the
paper because of tiny feather edges at the points. These should be
carefully honed and stropped off.
Egg Beater Made into Winder for Model Aeroplanes
[Illustration]
One of the features which take the joy out of flying elastic-driven
model aeroplanes is the time taken to wind them up. For 10 cents and
very little work a fast winder can be made out of an ordinary geared
egg beater. Remove the outer small pinion and the revolving beater
attached to it. Then cut the other beater off at A, as shown in the
sketch, and the spindle at B. A few turns of tinned wire soldered to
the spindle will keep the pinion from sliding off. Another piece of the
same wire may be soldered to the two arms, at C, to strengthen them.
In use, the hub of the propeller is inserted between the two arms, as
indicated and the rubber wound.--Morris G. Miller, New Rochelle, N. Y.
Stove Lighter with Feeding Wick Guards against Burns
[Illustration]
A stove lighter for gasoline or similar stoves can be made quickly. Cut
a piece of tin, 7 in. long and 1 in. wide. Place a lamp, wick on the
tin so that a part of it projects from the end of the tin. Fold the tin
so that the wick is held, but so that it can be drawn out when needed.
Saturate the wick in kerosene, or other thicker oil. When wishing to
light one or more burners of the stove, light the wick and apply it to
the burners. The stove can be lighted with less danger of burning the
hands than when a match is used directly.--Lee M. Delzell, Maroa, Ill.
Mechanical Toy Alligator of Wood
[Illustration: The Alligator is Drawn Along with a String, and the Jaws
and Tail Flip Up and Down]
A toy alligator that opens its mouth and wags its tail as it is pulled
along can be made of wood by a boy, with a jackknife. The various
parts, as shown, are cut from soft wood, ¹⁄₂ in. thick. The method
of fastening the parts is shown in the side sectional view. When the
wheels turn, the cams A, set on the crank portions of the wheel axles,
raise and lower the jaw and tail. The upper jaw is 1 in. wide at the
widest part, and 3 in. long. The lower jaw is smaller, and the same
length. The body is 6 in. long, and tapering in width from 1¹⁄₂ to ³⁄₄
in. The tail is 4³⁄₄ in. long, and ³⁄₄ in. wide. Holes are drilled in
each piece near the edge, at joining points, through which wires are
drawn, and clamped, as at B. The legs are shown in detail. They are
attached to the body by drilling a ¹⁄₁₆-in. hole in each, and a hole
through the body, through which the fastenings are passed. The lower
end of the legs are fastened to the base, which is 3 by 9 in. long.
Square holes, 1 in. wide, near each end, are provided for the cams A.
The axles and wheels are made as shown. The axles fit tightly in the
wheels, so that the latter can move the axles around with each turn.
The axles are made from ¹⁄₈-in. wire, bent as shown, and should be long
enough, after passing through the bottom, to extend through the wheels
on each side.--Charles C. Wagner, Los Angeles, Calif.
Angle Bracket Gives Leverage on Door Spring
Frequently, in placing a coil spring on a screen or other door, the
casing is flush with the door, and it is difficult to give the spring
the desired leverage. If it is attached to the casing directly, the
surface is marred by the rubbing of the spring. A good method is to
set a small iron bracket, either homemade of strap iron or one of the
commercial type, on the casing and attach the end of the spring to the
bracket. This prevents the spring from rubbing on the door and casing,
and gives it freedom of action.--Harry L. Dixon, Chicago, Ill.
Combination Indirect-Light Reflector and Mirror
[Illustration]
A small mirror combined with a shaded electric lamp affords a nearly
perfect shaving lamp, and facial toilet mirror. The mirror should be
1 in. smaller all around than the reflector. By soldering two lengths
of stiff wire to the back of the mirror frame, it can be clamped
to the reflector, as shown. The indirect light from the reflector
illuminates the face without shadows or glare, adding to the comfort
of shaving. The mirror can be removed, and the lamp used for other
purposes.--Thomas W. Benson, Philadelphia, Pa.
CONTENTS
Acetylene Burner, Spray Nozzle Made of, 248
Acid Jars, Earthen Mustard Pots Used as, 391
Adhesive Tape, Handy Use for, 407
Aerial Cableway, Compensated, 198
Aerials, Wireless, Lightning Switch for, 415
Aeroplanes, Model, Egg Beater Made into Winder for, 459
Aid in Ruling Uniform Cards or Sheets, 420
Air Pump, Protecting Against Denting, 412
Alarm, Rain, with Drop-of-Water Contact, 161
Alcohol Blowtorch for Difficult Soldering, 382
Alcohol, Denatured, to Start Gasoline Stove, 413
Alcohol Stove, Emergency, 350
Alligator of Wood, Mechanical Toy, 460
Alternating Current, Seeing in a Mirror, 392
Aluminum Cooking Utensils, Mending, 437
Aluminum-Ware Cleaner, Steel Wool as, 162
Ammeter, Homemade, 253
Ammonia-Carrying Case for Insect Bites, 154
Anchor for Canoe or Small Boat, 275
Anemometer, Easily Constructed Ball-Bearing, 213
Angle Bracket Gives Leverage on Door Spring, 460
Angle of Camera, Photo Copying Lens Increases, 160
Annunciator Target, Recording, 310
Apples and Other Fruit, Device Quarters and Cores, 453
Applying and Drying Bronze Powders, 338
Appointments and Other Events, Clock Device to Record Time of, 322
Aquarium, Cement Grotto for, 235
Arc Light, Homemade, 285
Arm, Desk Light, Folds into Pigeonhole, 452
Arm, Detachable Chair, 429
Armchair, Enameled, Made of Wooden Strips, 129
Arms of a Scarecrow, Swinging Bags on, 340
Army in Small Box, 438
Artistic Card Tray, 340
Asbestos Table Mats Reinforced with Wire Netting, 421
Ash Tray, Cheese Grater and, Made from a Tin Can, 225
Ash Tray, Snapper Shell, 68
Athletic Equipment Locker, Boys’, 439
Atomizer, Bottle Economizes Spray Liquid in, 450
Auto Horn for Child’s Play Vehicle, 16
Auto, Play, Barrel Staves as Springs for, 311
Auto Truck Frame, Reinforcing Strained, 454
Automatic Fishhook, 370
Automatic Flash Light Snaps Chicken-Coop Marauder, 142
Automatic Lock Box for Milk Bottles, 428
Automatic Photo-Print Washing Device, 329
Automatic Stop for Spring-Roller Curtains, 317
Automatic Window Closer, 280
Automobile, Bicycle Carried on, as Tender, 190
Automobile Seat, Porch Swing Made from, 425
Automobile, Suitcase Holder for Running Board of, 329
Baby-Cab Tires, Changing Wheels Equalizes Wear on, 446
Baby Crib, Neat and Economical, Made from a Clothes Basket, 206
Baby, Motor-Driven Entertainer for, 4
Baby, Washstand for, 328
Baby’s Play Area, Portable Fence for, 195
Back Rest, Folding Ground Seat with, 190
Backing Picture Frame, Plier Drives Nails in, 450
Backstop, Knock-Down Tennis-Court, 189
Backwoodsman’s Nutcracker, 450
Bags, Swinging, on Arms of Scarecrow, 340
Bait Cache, Campers’, 171
Bait Casting for Game Fish, 71
Bait, Catching Minnows for, 168
Bait, Luminous-Minnow Fish, 314
Ball-Bearing Anemometer, Easily Constructed, 213
Balloons, Toy Rubber, Filling with Hydrogen, 30
Band, Metal, Stiffens Brush, 367
Bare Spots on Lawns, Seeding, 167
Bark-Covered Porch Light and Plant Shelf, 432
Barnyard Gate Operated with the Foot, 208
Barometer, Simple, 415
Barrel, Cushioned Chair Made of, 440
Barrel Staves as Springs for Play Auto, 311
Base, Weighting Metal, 217
Baseball Playing, To Practice Batting for, 100
Basement, Signal for Lighted Lights in, 314
Basin, Dish-Draining, Old Sink Installed as, 452
Basin, Simple Metal Bird, 432
Basket, Hourglass Sewing, 137
Bathroom Kinks, Three, 402
Battery Buzzer Converted into a Telegraph Sounder, 141
Battery Circuits, Homemade Fuses for, 151
Batting for Baseball Playing, To Practice, 100
Bazaar or Fair Booth, Rustic Well for, 182
Bearing for Playground Swings, 276
Bearing Made of Brass Cartridge, 382
Beating, Hanging Heavy Rug on Line for, 389
Bed, Antique Signboard Made of Headboard of, 15
Bed, Folding Card Table Handy for Invalid in, 308
Bed Table, Adjustable and Pivoted, Attached to Bedpost, 9
Bedpost, Adjustable and Pivoted Bed Table Attached to, 9
Bedroom Night Light, Flash Light Used as, 423
Bedroom Shade and Curtains Arranged for Thorough Ventilation, 128
Bedsteads, Old, Lawn Benches Made from, 174
Bee Feeder for Winter Use, 192
Bell, Call, Curious Support for, 362
Bell-Circuit Wiring, Tinned Staples for, 420
Bell-Ringing Hoop, Child’s, 449
Bell-Ringing Mail Box, 422
Belt for Sprocket Drive Made of Brass Strips, 160
Bench, Clamping a Wide Board on, 248
Bench Receptacles for Small Articles, 350
Bench Stop, 395
Bench Support for a Miter Box, 336
Bench Vise, Quick-Acting, 85
Benches, Lawn, Made from Old Bedsteads, 174
Berth, Train, Improved Trousers Hanger in, 367
Bicycle Carried on Automobile as Tender, 190
Bicycle Fitted Up to Resemble Motorcycle, 441
Bicycle-Handle Grip on Rake Handle, 372
Bicycle Lamp, Generator Attachment Provides Current for, 457
Bicycle, Parcel-Delivery, Sidecar for, 407
Bicycle Pump, Cleaning Type Cases with, 451
Bicycle Pump, Pneumatic Door Check Made of, 169
Bicycle, Rear Seat for Motorcycle or, 446
Bicycle Runners for Winter Use, 418
Bicycles Driven as Three-Wheel Tandem After Breakdown, 410
Bilge Water Siphoned Through Water-Jacket Outlet, 413
Billfold, Craftsman Leather, 446
Billfold, Squirrel-Skin, 265
Binder for Magazines, Temporary, 370
Binding, Knife to Trim Magazines for, 286
Birch-Bark Leggings Made in the Woods, 421
Bird Basin, Simple Metal, 432
Bird House Made of Kegs, 134
Bird House Made of Old Straw Hat, 181
Bird Photography, Camera for, 426
Bird Table, Cat-Proof, 76
Bites, Insect, Ammonia-Carrying Case for, 154
Blades, Propeller, How to Make Quickly, 395
Blind Person, Homemade Device Aids in Writing, 438
Block Plane Converted for Use on Circular Work, 211
Blotter Attached to Wrist Saves Time, 295
Blotter, Trick, 354
Blotting Paper, White, Improves Light Reflectors, 196
Blower for a Fireplace, 318
Blowpipe for Gas, 336
Blowtorch, Alcohol, for Difficult Soldering, 382
Blue Roses Tinged by Chemicals, 406
Board, Sliding, for Coasting, 14
Board, Wide, Clamping on a Bench, 248
Boat, Canoe or, Stored in Pulley Slings, 361
Boat, Portable Folding, 135
Boat, Small, Canoe or, Anchor for, 275
Boats, Model Paddle-Wheel, 443
Book and Document Protector, 294
Book Form, Keeping Magazines in, 378
Book Holder, Homemade, 193
Book Rest for Music Stand, 328
Book, Specimen, Preserving Leaves in, 10
Bookcase and Writing Desk, Combination, 316
Bookcase, Trunk, for Convenient Shipment, 217
Bookmark, Leather and Silk, 218
Bookshelf, Index for Popular Mechanics Magazine on, 308
Bookshelf, Secret Trinket Case for, 296
Booth, Bazaar or Fair, Rustic Well for, 182
Bottle Carrier Made of Pipe Straps, 217
Bottle, Die in, 276
Bottle Economizes Spray Liquid in Atomizer, 450
Bottle, Glass, as a Candle Lamp, 291
Bottle, Glass, Cutting with Electricity, 230
Bottle, To Uncork, with a String, 402
Boughs, Springy Hammock Support Made of, 369
Box, Automatic Lock, for Milk Bottles, 428
Box Camera, Direct View Finder for, 353
Box Cover, Hinged, Made Without Hinges, 141
Box Cover Without Hinges, 46
Box End, Scoop Made of, 433
Box for Campers, Table, 124
Box Farm, Fort Built of Snow Blocks Made in, 409
Box, Hinged Window, 413
Box, Loading, to Dispense with Dark Room, 268
Box, Novel Covered, for Index Trays, 414
Box, Pasteboard, Shortening, 337
Box, Small, Army in, 438
Box to Protect Extra Spark Plugs, 440
Boxes, Decorative Toys and, Made at Home, 299
Boy Can Make Useful Periscope, 305
Boys’ Athletic-Equipment Locker, 439
Boys’ Motor Car, Homemade, 1
Bracelet, One-Piece, Cut from Calling Card, 319
Bracket, Angle, Gives Leverage on Door Spring, 460
Bracket for Garden Hose, Practical, 417
Bracket, Gas-Hose, for Ironing or Shop Use, 360
Brake, Safety, Coaster with, 273
Brass Candlestick, Repairing, 372
Brass Cartridge, Bearing Made of, 382
Brass Machine Screws with Nuts, 68
Brass Strips, Belt for Sprocket Drive Made of, 160
Brass Tip on Cartridge Fuse, Bushing Made of, 393
Brick Walls, Wire Trellis Fastened Neatly to, 8
Bristles in Polish or Stencil Brushes, Wire Compacts, 439
Broken Canoe Paddle, Repairing, 158
Broken Coffee Pot Knob, Replacing, 226
Broken Fly-Screen Frame, Repairing, 356
Broken Liquid Column in Thermometer, Joining, 366
Broken Metal Cross, Repairing, 389
Broken Places on Enamel, Filling in, 178
Broken Reed Handle, Repairing, 187
Broken Spade Handle Repaired with Water Pipe, 242
Bromide Enlargements, Curved Printing Surface for Sharp Focus in, 186
Bromide Enlargements, Test Exposure for, 411
Bromide Enlargements, Washing, 336
Bronze Powders, Applying and Drying, 338
Brooder, 371
Brooding House, Chick, Shield for Heater in, 295
Broom, Moving Heavy Objects with, 445
Brush and Container, Mucilage, Made of a Test Tube, 335
Brush-Cutting Knife, Pruning and, 449
Brush, Metal Band Stiffens, 367
Brushes, Polish or Stencil, Wire Compacts Bristles in, 439
Buggy Shafts, Old, Toboggan Made of, 410
Buggy Springs, Discarded, for Diving Board, 429
Bulb, Light, Testing Dry Cells with, 267
Bumpers, Door, Raise Height of Chair, 358
Bungalow, California, for Canaries, 437
Bunghole, Stopper for, 254
Burns, Stove Lighter with Feeding Wick Guards Against, 459
Bushing Made of Brass Tip on Cartridge Fuse, 393
Button Clasps, Old, Practical Uses for, 432
Buttonhole-Bouquet Holder to Keep Cut Flowers Fresh, 149
Buttonhook, Fancy, How to Make, 371
Buttonhook, Screwdriver Made from, 362
Buttons, Miniature Push, 251
Butts, Plain, Used as Double-Swing Hinge, 330
Buzzer, Battery, Converted into a Telegraph Sounder, 141
Cabinet and Table, Combination Camp-Kitchen, 126
Cabinet Doors, Wire Holders Keep Open, 127
Cabinet, Homemade Talking Machine, 310
Cabinet, Magic, 345
Cabinet or Cellarette, Smoker’s, 32
Cabinet, Sportsman’s, for Guns, Equipment and Books, 434
Cabinetwork, Storage of Wood for, 389
Cableway, Compensated Aerial, 198
Cage, Wire-Mesh, Fisherman’s Pail with, 454
Cakes, Pop-Corn, How to Make, 153
Calendar, Perpetual, 43
California Bungalow for Canaries, 437
Calipers, Homemade, 373
Call Bell, Curious Support for, 362
Calling Card, One-Piece Bracelet Cut from, 319
Camera, Box, Direct View Finder for, 353
Camera, Enlarging, Improvised Post-Card Projector and, 209
Camera for Bird Photography, 426
Camera for Taking Pictures from Kite, 52
Camera Shutter, Simple Arrangement for Releasing from Distance, 458
Camera, Submarine, 219
Camera, Substitute for Ground Glass in, 236
Camera, Photo-Copying Lens Increases Angle of, 160
Camera Tripod, Tilting Top for, 242
Camera View Finder, Rectangular Opening to Use Over, 125
Cameras, Enlarging, Focusing Screen for, 388
Camp Chest, Guarding Against Theft, 362
Camp Equipment, Care and Storage of, 304
Camp Fire, Utensil Rack for, 397
Camp-Kitchen Cabinet and Table, Combination, 126
Camp Lantern Made of a Tin Can, 406
Camp or Kitchen, Slicing Board for, 247
Camp, Shaving Lamp and Mirror for, 162
Camp Shelter Affords Protection from Mosquitoes, 181
Camp Stoves, Emergency, Quickly Made, 449
Camp, Summer, Diving Tower for, 274
Camp Water Bag, 122
Camper’s Bait Cache, 171
Camper’s Salt-and-Pepper Holder, 115
Campers, Table Box for, 124
Campfire, Water Wheel Turns Spit Over, 429
Camping and Outing Trips, Memorandum List for, 365
Camping Out, Tricks of:
Part I.--The Camping Outfit, 109
Part II.--Cooking in the Woods, 117
Can, Come-Back Rolling, 298
Can, Tin, Camp Lantern Made of, 406
Canal, Current of, Raises Irrigation Water, 411
Canaries, California Bungalow for, 437
Candle Lamp, Glass Bottle as, 291
Candle, Lighting Without Touching the Wick, 334
Candles, Magic, Explained, 355
Candlestick, Brass, Repairing, 372
Candlestick Mission, 60
Candlesticks, Sectional Spun-Metal, Repairing, 382
Candlesticks Wired Neatly for Electric Lamps, 5
Candy Figures, Hollow, Mold for Making, 122
Cane Made of Tubing Contains Cigars, 430
Cane, Turned, with Snakes Inlaid, 325
Cannon-Shell Dinner Bell, 399
Cannon Shell, Miniature, Match Safe of, 335
Canoe, How to Build:
Part I.--Specifications and List of Materials, 77
Part II.--Sailing the Open Paddling Canoe, 86
Part III.--Fitting a Motor into a Paddling Canoe, 89
Canoe or Boat Stored in Pulley Slings, 361
Canoe or Small Boat, Anchor for, 275
Canoe Paddle, Repairing Broken, 158
Canoe, Paddling Your Own:
Part I.--Kinds of Canoes, 95
Part II.--Knack of Handling the Paddle, 102
Canoe, Patching Canvas Bottom of, 430
Cans, Large, Wheelbarrow for, 330
Cans, Nail Carrier Made of, 414
Canteen, How to Make, 54
Canvas Bottom of a Canoe, Patching, 430
Carbon Electric Water Heater, 356
Card Deception, Simple, 168
Card Frame, Enchanted, 194
Card Index, Removal Marker for, 372
Card or Ticket Holder, Revolving, 369
Card Table, Folding, Handy for Invalid in Bed, 308
Card, Tossing at Mark Accurately, 69
Card Tray, Artistic, 340
Card Trick, Diminishing, 396
Card, Written, Magically Naming, 61
Cardboard Creaser, 378
Cardboard, Dies for Cutting, 315
Cardboard Tubes for Electrical Coils, Making, 438
Cardboard Writing and Drawing Pad, 130
Cards, Feeding into Typewriter, 437
Cards or Sheets, Uniform, Aid in Ruling, 420
Care and Storage of Camp Equipment, 304
Care of Umbrellas, Kinks on, 422
Caring for, Files, Testing and, 400
Carrying Strap and Lock for Hand Cases, 328
Cart for Carrying Huge Drum in Parade, 435
Cartridge, Brass, Bearing Made of, 382
Cartridge Fuse, Bushing Made of Brass Tip on, 393
Case, Ammonia-Carrying, for Insect Bites, 154
Case for Fishhooks Made of a Tin Can, 267
Case, Waterproof Dry-Battery, 265
Cases of Drawers, Simple Concealed Locking Device for, 4
Caster Board for Scrubbing and Floorwork, 293
Caster Supports, Handy Parcel Carrier with, 6
Casting, Bait, for Game Fish, 71
Castings, Similar Small, Making Lead Soldiers and, 455
Castings Without Patterns, 374
Cat-and-Bells Scarecrow, 426
Cat-Proof Bird Table, 76
Catch-Ail Screen Inside Hot-Air Register, 432
Catching Large Fish with a Teaspoon, 401
Cedar Oil, Treating Closets with, 208
Cellarette, Smoker’s Cabinet or, 32
Celluloid Cover for Road Maps, 295
Cement Grotto for an Aquarium, 235
Cement Plant, Miniature, 383
Chain Weight Prevents Whipping of Flag, 409
Chains, Gas-Fixture, Sleeve Aids in Distinguishing, 247
Chair Arm, Detachable, 429
Chair, Cushioned, Made of Barrel, 440
Chair, Door Bumpers Raise Height of, 358
Chair, High, 318
Chair, Morris, with Newspaper Rack and Smoker’s Trays, 309
Chair, Removable Headrest for, 432
Chair Seat, Convenient Tool Drawer Under, 169
Changing Wheels Equalizes Wear on Baby-Cab Tires, 446
Check, Homemade Screen-Door, 392
Checking a Rip in Tire Tubes, 354
Cheese Grater and Ash Tray Made from a Tin Can, 225
Chemicals, Roses Tinged Blue by, 406
Chest, Camp, Guarding Against Theft, 362
Chest Expander, Comic, for Play or Stage Use, 429
Chest, Homemade, Linoleum Panels for, 425
Chest Lock, Making More Secure, 94
Chests, Miniature Metal-Bound, 287
Chick Brooding House, Shield for Heater in, 295
Chicken-Coop Marauder, Automatic Flash Light Snaps, 142
Child, Spoon Attachment to Prevent from Using Left Hand, 317
Child’s Bell-Ringing Hoop, 449
Child’s Play Vehicle, Auto Horn for, 16
Child’s Swing Built of Pipes in Narrow Space, 358
Chimes, Set of Electric, 368
China Banding Wheel, Disk Talking Machine as, 10
Choke and Pattern of a Gun, 63
Chopping Block, Safety, 187
Churn Attachment, Washing Machine Equipped with, 208
Chute, Gravity Delivery, Fruit-Picking Pole with, 367
Cigar and Pipe Lighter, Non-Blow-Out, 321
Cigars, Cane Made of Tubing Contains, 430
Cipher Code, Simple, 224
Circular Swing, 177
Circular Work, Block Plane Converted for Use on, 211
Clamp, Tennis-Racket, Opening Springs for, 393
Clamping a Wide Board on a Bench, 248
Clasps, Old Button, Practical Uses for, 432
Cleaner, Comb, 70
Cleaning a Clock with Kerosene Fumes, 324
Cleaning a Typewriter, Kinks in, 6
Cleaning, Pole Supports Rug for, 10
Cleaning Silverware, 158
Cleaning Tinware with Milk, 44
Cleaning Type Cases with Bicycle Pump, 451
Cleanly Pencil Sharpener, 247
Cleat and Pulley Fastenings to Adjust Clothesline, 211
Climbing Ring, Mystic, 22
Clip Holds Flash-Lamp on Handlebar as Headlight, 450
Clipping File Made of Envelopes, 125
Clock, Cleaning with Kerosene Fumes, 324
Clock Device to Record Time of Appointments and Other Events, 322
Clock, Electrical Device Transmits Striking of, 14
Clock Hand, Magic, 347
Clock, Muffling the Ticking of a Watch or, 223
Clocks for the Craftsman, 41
Clocks, Oiling Tool for, 107
Clod Rake Protects Corn in Cultivating, 362
Closet, Rigging Economizes Space in, 433
Closets, Treating with Cedar Oil, 208
Clothes Basket, Neat and Economical Baby Crib Made from, 206
Clothes Drier, Umbrella Used as, 366
Clothesline, Cleat and Pulley Fastenings to Adjust, 211
Clothespin-Basket Hook, 400
Coal Hod Made from Iron Pipe, 129
Coal Hopper, Gravity Feed, on Truck, 140
Coaster Steering Gear Made from Cream-Freezer Drive, 161
Coaster with Safety Brake, 273
Coasting, Sliding Board for, 14
Coasting Toboggan, Making a, 11
Coat Hook, Wire, To Prevent from Turning, 235
Cocoanut-Shell Trays, 414
Code, Simple Cipher, 224
Coffee Can and Broom Handle, Corn Popper Made from, 212
Coffee Grinder Repaired with Rubber Faucet Plug, 129
Coffee Pot Knob, Replacing Broken, 226
Coiled Springs, Winding, 134
Coils, Electrical, Making Cardboard Tubes for, 438
Collar Button, Emergency, 10
Colonial Mirror Frame, 306
Colors, Reproducing Flowers and Leaves in, 152
Colors, Two, Writing on Plain-Ribbon Typewriter, 168
Comb Cleaner, 70
Combination Bookcase and Writing Desk, 316
Combination Indirect-Light Reflector and Mirror, 460
Combination Laundry Tub and Dishwashing Sink, 218
Combination Lock, Effective, Easily Made, 431
Combination Workshop Seat, 370
Combined Kites, How to Make:
Part I.--A Dragon Kite, 145
Part II.--Festooned Kite, 155
Combined Label and Cover Pad for Preserve Glasses, 4
Come-Back Rolling Can, 298
Comic Chest Expander for Play or Stage Use, 429
Common Mistakes in Model Making, 394
Compact Galvanometer, 42
Compensated Aerial Cableway, 198
Concealing the House Key, 70
Concrete Water Basin for Poultry, 236
Condenser, Small Variable, 334
Contact, Drop-of-Water, Rain Alarm with, 161
Containers, Pouring Liquids Quickly from, 21
Contents of Unsealed Envelopes, Safeguarding, 363
Controller, Simple Motor, 250
Cooker, Lamp, 294
Cooking in the Woods, 117
Cooking Utensils, Aluminum, Mending, 437
Cooler for Developing Tray, 149
Cooling Foodstuffs with a Moist Rag and a Draft, 453
Coop for Sitting Hens, 360
Cord, Telephone, Rubber Band Prevents Tangling of, 367
Cord Used as Spacer for Curtain Rings, 211
Cork Plugs Save Wear on Drafting Board, 21
Corks, Pad for Glass Vessels Made of, 161
Corn, Clod Rake Protects in Cultivating, 362
Corn Popper Made from Coffee Can and Broom Handle, 212
Corners, Diagonal, on Disk-Record Covers, 442
Corners, Metal Floor, 248
Correcting, Inserting or, on Typewritten Bound Sheets, 419
Corrugating Strips, Device for, 421
Cottage, Tuberculosis, 385
Couch Spring, Removing Sag from, 430
Couches, Substitute for Rivets in, 371
Counter, Easily Made, 401
Countersinking a Hole Smoothly, 345
Counterweight, Trimming Board with Foot Control, 308
Counting Glass, Electric, for Thread Fabric, 321
Cover, Box, Without Hinges, 46
Cover Fastener, Key Ring Used as, 430
Cover for Road Maps, Celluloid, 295
Cover, Hinged Box, Made Without Hinges, 141
Cover, Safety, for Valves on Gas Stove, 298
Cover, Tin, Frying Pan Made of, 298
Covering Hinge Wings, 276
Covers’ Disk-Record, Diagonal Corners on, 442
Covers for Jars, Removable Paraffin, 298
Cow’s Tail, “Switchboard,” Protects Milker from, 128
Coyotes, Trap for, 306
Craftsman, Clocks for, 41
Craftsman Leather Billfold, 446
Crates and Furniture, Three-Caster Truck for Moving, 419
Cream-Freezer Drive, Coaster Steering Gear Made from, 161
Creaser, Cardboard, 378
Creeper, Ice, 94
Cross, Broken Metal, Repairing, 389
Crossbow Magazine Gun, 458
Cue Alley, Parlor, 341
Cultivating, Clod Rake Protects Corn in, 362
Cup, Trophy, Onlaying Script on, 188
Cupboard for Kitchen Utensils, 396
Cupboard, Summer Radiator Cover Serves as, in Winter, 297
Curious Support for Call Bell, 362
Curling-Iron Heater, 130
Current, Alternating, Seeing in a Mirror, 392
Current for Bicycle Lamp, Generator Attachment Provides, 457
Current of Canal Raises Irrigation Water, 411
Curtain, Raising and Lowering at a Distance, 22
Curtain Rings, Cord Used as Spacer for, 211
Curtains, Automatic Stop for Spring-Roller, 317
Curved Printing Surface for Sharp Focus in Bromide Enlargements, 186
Cushion, Emery Needle, on Sewing Machine, 197
Cushioned Chair Made of Barrel, 440
Cutter, Groove, for Wood, 45
Cutting Cardboard, Dies for, 315
Cutting Glass Bottle with Electricity, 230
Cylinder Reversing Switch, 297
Damp Walls, Shielding Picture from, 338
Dancer, Electrical, 357
Dark, Locating Droplight in, 31
Dark-Room Light, Emergency, 94
Dark Room, Loading Box to Dispense with, 268
Dark-Room Use, Red Lens Hinged to Flash Light for, 6
Dark Room, Window Frame and Table for, 320
Dark, To Keep Tan Shoes from Turning, 377
Darning Needle, Threading, 153
Deception, Simple Card, 168
Decorative Toys and Boxes Made at Home, 299
Decoys, Duck, Mounted on Folding Frame, 188
Delivery Chute, Gravity, Fruit-Picking Pole with, 367
Delivery Routes, Order-Memo Device for, 443
Denatured Alcohol to Start Gasoline Stove, 413
Dent in Edge, Teakettle Cover Held by, 5
Dental Floss, Sanitary Holder for Thread and, 46
Denting, Protecting Air Pump Against, 412
Deodorizing Lard Buckets, 340
Depth, Homemade Fishing Float Adjustable to, 8
Desk, Folding Wall, 292
Desk, Improvised Typewriter, 225
Desk Lamp, Small, Supported by Paper Weight, 424
Desk-Light Arm Folds into Pigeonhole, 452
Desk Slide in Top of Drawer, 356
Desk Watch Holder, 158
Desk, Writing, Combination Bookcase and, 316
Detachable Chair Arm, 429
Detachable, Making Umbrella Handle, 439
Detachable Motor-Driven Tire Pump Made of Foot Pump, 454
Developer, Heater Keeps at Proper Temperature, 190
Developing Films, Tray Attachment for, 280
Developing or Etching-Tray Rocker, 218
Developing-Paper Printer, 375
Developing, Photographic, Film Holder for, 452
Developing Roll Films, New Method of, 339
Developing Tank, Reversible Photographic, 325
Developing Tray, Cooler for, 149
Device, Electrical, Transmits Striking of Clock, 14
Device for Corrugating Strips, 421
Device Frightens Flies at Screen Door, 425
Device Quarters and Cores Apples and Other Fruit, 453
Diagonal Corners on Disk-Record Covers, 442
Die in a Bottle, 276
Dies for Cutting Cardboard, 315
Diminishing Card Trick, 396
Dining Table, Gas Stove for, 373
Dinner Bell, Cannon-Shell, 399
Dipping Water, Valve-Bottom Pail for, 344
Direct Current Polarity, Testing with Litmus Paper, 369
Direct View Finder for Box Camera, 353
Disappearing-Coin Trick, 144
Disappearing Towel, 154
Discarded Buggy Springs for Diving Board, 429
Dish-Draining Basin, Old Sink Installed as, 452
Dishes, Scraper for, 337
Dishwasher and Drier, 152
Dishwashing Sink, Combination Laundry Tub and, 218
Disk-Record Covers, Diagonal Corners on, 442
Disk Talking-Machine Records Played Eccentrically, 328
Disks, Cutting Thin Wooden, 16
Dissolving Views, Fireside, 351
Diving Board, Discarded Buggy Springs for, 429
Diving Tower for the Summer Camp, 274
Document Protector, Book and, 294
Door Bumpers Raise Height of Chair, 358
Door Check, Pneumatic, Made of Bicycle Pump, 169
Door, Eccentric Drawbolt Stops Rattling of, 457
Door Latch, Quickly Made, 123
Door Latch, Poultry-House, Spring Roost Releases, 448
Door or Window, Rustic, Trellis to Shade, 175
Door, Rope Pad Prevents Slamming of, 440
Door Spring, Angle Bracket Gives Leverage on, 460
Doorbell Push Button on Screen Door, 150
Double-Contact Vibrator, 140
Double Roofs Provide Ideal Shade for Poultry Coops, 180
Double-Swing Hinge, Plain Butts Used as, 330
Draft, Moist Rag and, Cooling Foodstuffs with, 453
Draft, Smoking of Lamp Overcome by Increasing, 361
Drafting Board, Cork Plugs Save Wear on, 21
Drawbolt, Eccentric, Stops Rattling of Door, 457
Drawer, Desk Slide in Top of, 356
Drawer Handles, Preventing Looseness of, 357
Drawer, Refuse-Catching, Wood Box with, 144
Drawer Stop, Removable, 10
Drawing Board, Tool Sockets in Edge of, 435
Drawings, How to Transfer, 138
Drawings, Tracing-Cloth, Mounting on Muslin, 418
Dressing for Fishline, 397
Drier, Dishwasher and, 152
Drill, Hand, Polishing with, 354
Drinking-Glass, Handle for, 125
Drinking-Glass Holder, 134
Drinking-Glass Holders Easily Made, 197
Drinking Tube, Sanitary, 69
Driving Nails, Kink for, 193
Driving Nails to Prevent Splitting, 373
Driving Screws in Hard Wood, 94
Driving Thin Metal into Wood, 247
Drop-of-Water Contact, Rain Alarm with, 161
Droplight, Locating in Dark, 31
Drum, Huge, Cart for Carrying in Parade, 435
Dry-Battery Case, Waterproof, 265
Dry Batteries, Renewing with Sal-Ammoniac, 14
Dry Cell and Motor, Toy Tractor Built with, 9
Dry Cells, Testing with Light Bulb, 267
Dry-Cleaning Mixture, 62
Dry-Plate Kit, Inexpensive, 326
Drying Bronze Powders, Applying and, 338
Drying Photo Films Rapidly, 338
Drying Rack for Shoes and Rubbers, 454
Drying Small Fur Hides, Stretcher for, 421
Duck Decoys Mounted on Folding Frame, 188
Earth, Device for Packing in Transplanting, 211
Earthen Mustard Pots Used as Acid Jars, 391
Echo on Talking Machine, Split Needle Causes, 217
Economy in Motorcycle Tires, 188
Edge of Table or Window, Folding Ironing Board Clamps on Edge of, 8
Edges, Round and Flat, Ruler with, 350
Effective Combination Lock Easily Made, 431
Efficiency of Electrically Heated Devices, To Determine, 390
Egg Beater Made into Winder for Model Aeroplanes, 458
Egg-Candling Device, Flash-Light, 458
Eggshells as Flowerpots, 310
Eight-Pointed Star Kite, 159
Electric Chimes, Set of, 368
Electric Counting Glass for Thread Fabric, 321
Electric Fan an Aid to Heating Room, 426
Electric Iron, Variety of Uses for, 14
Electric Lamps, Candlesticks Wired Neatly for, 5
Electric Light, Automatic, on Talking-Machine Cabinet, 162
Electric-Light Fixture, Homemade Inverted, 435
Electric Locomotive Model and Track System, Homemade:
Part I.--The Motor, 231
Part II.--Construction of the Locomotive Truck and Cab, 237
Part III.--Construction of the Track System, 243
Electric Lure for Fish, 123
Electric Motor, Quickly Made Toy, 252
Electric Sparks, Photographing, 399
Electric Stove, Fifty-Cent, 260
Electric Water Heater, Carbon, 356
Electrical Apparatus, How to Wind Wire on, 136
Electrical Coils, Making Cardboard Tubes for, 438
Electrical Dancer, 357
Electrical Device Transmits Striking of Clock, 14
Electrical Devices, Small, Water Rheostat for, 196
Electrical Fixture Parts, Inexpensive Table Lamp Made of, 127
Electrical Heating Apparatus, Table Sockets for, 396
Electrically Heated Devices, To Determine Efficiency of, 390
Electricity, Cutting Glass Bottle with, 230
Electromagnetism, Experiment in, 156
Ellipsograph, Homemade, 258
Emergency Alcohol Stove, 350
Emergency Camp Stoves Quickly Made, 449
Emergency Dark-Room Light, 94
Emergency Lifting Device of Rope and Lever, 334
Emergency Oarlock of Rope, 218
Emergency Oars, Take-Down, 395
Emergency Tension Weight Used on Typewriter, 457
Emery Grinder, Wood Turning on, 402
Emery Needle Cushion on Sewing Machine, 197
Empty Paste Pot, Utilizing, 306
Emptying Wastebasket, False Bottom for, 344
Enamel, Filling in Broken Places on, 178
Enamel for Steel Fishing Rods, 349
Enchanted Card Frame, 194
Engine, Motorcycle, Homemade Roadster with, 437
Enlargements, Bromide, Curved Printing Surface for Sharp Focus in, 186
Enlargements, Bromide, Test Exposure for, 411
Enlargements, Scale, Making with a Rubber Band, 175
Enlargements, Washing Bromide, 336
Enlarging Camera, Improvised Post-Card Projector and, 209
Enlarging Cameras, Focusing Screen for, 388
Entertainer for the Baby, Motor Driven, 4
Envelopes, Clipping File Made of, 125
Envelopes, Filing, Making Quickly, 417
Envelopes, Unsealed, Safeguarding Contents of, 363
Etching-Tray Rocker, Developing or, 218
Events, Clock Device to Record Time of Appointments and Other, 322
Exerciser, Pulley and Weight, Homemade in the Orient, 365
Experiment in Electromagnetism, 156
Experimental Lead Screw, How to Make, 31
Experimenter, Heater for, 43
Exposures, Test, for Bromide Enlargements, 411
Extension, Homemade Suit Case, 360
Eyebolts, Homemade, 376
Fair Booth, Bazaar or, Rustic Well for, 182
False Bottom for Emptying Waste Basket, 344
Fan, Hand-Operated Whirling, 398
Fan, Lighted Whirling, Used as Radiator Ornament, 260
Fancy Buttonhook, How to Make, 371
Fastenings to Adjust Clothesline, Cleat and Pulley, 211
Feather as X-Ray Lens, 412
Feeding Cards into Typewriter, 437
Feeding Geese in a Poultry Yard, 373
Feeding Pan for Poultry, 248
Fence, Portable, for Baby’s Play Area, 195
Fence Posts, Preventing Wire Mesh from Rising Between, 93
Fencing, Portable Sectional Poultry, 329
Ferrules for Tool Handles, 157
Fiber Phonograph Needles, Device for Sharpening, 361
Fifty-Cent Electric Stove, 260
Fighting Tank, Miniature, 202
Figures, Hollow Candy, Mold for Making, 122
File, Clipping, Made of Envelopes, 125
Files, Testing and Caring for, 400
Filing Envelopes, Making Quickly, 417
Filing System, Photographic-Negative, 434
Filling in Broken Places on Enamel, 178
Filling Toy Rubber Balloons with Hydrogen, 30
Film Holder for Photographic Developing, 452
Films, Photo, Drying Rapidly, 338
Films, Photographic, Stenciling with, 416
Films, Roll, New Method of Developing, 339
Films, Tray Attachment for Developing, 280
Finger Nail, Playing Talking-Machine Records with, 187
Finger-Trap Trick, 377
Finger Tug-of-War Game, Device for, 319
Fire, Inexpensive Imitation, 226
Fire Screen, Portable, 68
Fireplace, Blower for, 318
Fireside Dissolving Views, 351
Fish Bait, Luminous-Minnow, 314
Fish Catch, Whistle Warns of, 275
Fish, Electric Lure for, 123
Fish, Game, Bait Casting for, 71
Fish, Large, Catching with a Teaspoon, 401
Fish Lines, Waterproofing for, 94
Fish Poles, Making Round Rods for, 40
Fish Scaler, 154
Fisherman’s Pail with Wire-Mesh Cage, 454
Fishhook, Automatic, 370
Fishhooks, Case for, Made of a Tin Can, 267
Fishing Float, Homemade, Adjustable to Depth, 8
Fishing Rods, Steel, Enamel for, 349
Fishing-Tackle Outfit in a Shotgun Shell, 142
Fishline, Dressing for, 397
Fishline, Gourd Float for, 285
Fixture, Homemade Inverted Electric-Light, 435
Flag, Chain Weight Prevents Whipping of, 409
Flag, Weighted Rope Holds Upright, 451
Flash Lamp, Clip Holds on Handlebar as Headlight, 450
Flash Lamps, Pocket, Improvement on, 267
Flash Light, Automatic, Snaps Chicken-Coop Marauder, 142
Flash Light Egg Candling Device, 458
Flash Light, Red Lens Hinged to, for Dark-Room Use, 6
Flash Light Used as Bedroom Night Light, 423
Flatiron Polisher, 399
Flatiron, Sheet-Metal Stand for, 182
Flies at Screen Door, Device Frightens, 425
Float, Gourd, for a Fishline, 285
Floor Corners, Metal, 248
Floor Trapdoor, Fuel Box in Seat Filled from, 332
Flooring Groove, Planing Thin Sticks Held in, 218
Floorwork, Caster Board for Scrubbing and, 293
Flower Centerpiece, Wire-Mesh Support for, 344
Flowerpots, Eggshells as, 310
Flowers and Leaves, Reproducing in Colors, 152
Flowers, Cut, Buttonhole-Bouquet Holder to Keep Fresh, 149
Flowers, Potted, Turntable Stand for, 308
Flowers, Window-Box, Watering, 144
Flue Stopper, Safety, Made of Tin Pail, 328
Fluorescent Screen, How to Make, 92
Fly-Screen Frame, Repairing a Broken, 356
Focus, Sharp, in Bromide Enlargements, Curved Printing Surface
for, 186
Focusing Screen for Enlarging Cameras, 388
Folding Boat, Portable, 135
Folding Card Table Handy for Invalid in Bed, 308
Folding Ground Seat with Back Rest, 190
Folding Ice Sled, 44
Folding Ironing Board Clamps on Edge of Table or Window, 8
Folding Table with Split-Bamboo Tray for Top, 424
Folding Wall Desk, 292
Foodstuffs, Cooling with a Moist Rag and a Draft, 453
Foot, Barnyard Gate Operated with, 208
Foot Control and Counterweight, Trimming Board with, 308
Foot Pump, Detachable Motor-Driven Tire Pump Made of, 454
Foot Rests, Small Stools and, Variety of, 261
Footstool, 254
Footstool, Woven-Reed, 255
Forceps for Weeding Garden, 338
Form, Book, Keeping Magazine in, 378
Fort Built of Snow Blocks Made in Box Form, 409
Fortune Telling, Magic-Paper, 393
Fountain Pen, Ordinary Pen Converted into, 362
Fountain-Pen Wrench, 273
Frame, Broken Fly-Screen, Repairing, 356
Frame, Colonial Mirror, 306
Frame, Folding, Duck Decoys Mounted on, 188
Frame, Window, and Table for Dark Room, 320
Frames, Novel Homemade Picture, 124
Front-Opening Hatbox, 266
Fruit-Picking Pole with Gravity Delivery Chute, 367
Fruit, Tin Can on Rod for Picking, 54
Frying Pan Made of Tin Cover, 298
Fuel Box in Seat Filled from Floor Trapdoor, 332
Furniture, Crates and, Three-Caster Truck for Moving, 419
Furniture, Woven Reed, 261, 269
Fuse Socket, Inkwell Base Made from, 344
Fuses, Homemade, for Battery Circuits, 151
Galvanometer, Compact, 42
Game, Device for Finger Tug-of-War, 319
Game Fish, Bait Casting for, 71
Game, Indian Snake, 388
Game of Skill, Marble-under-Bridge, 298
Garden, Forceps for Weeding, 338
Garden Hose, Practical Bracket for, 417
Garden Plants, Starting, 373
Garden Plow Made of Pick-Up Material, 227
Garden Workers, Movable Sunshade and Seat for, 148
Gas, Blowpipe for, 336
Gas-Fixture Chains, Sleeve Aids in Distinguishing, 247
Gas Furnace, Small, 346
Gas Heater, Pie-Plate, 423
Gas-Hose Bracket for Ironing or Shop Use, 366
Gas Mantles Made at Home, 274
Gas Piping, Tire Pump Made of, 419
Gas Stove for the Dining Table, 373
Gas-Stove Lighter, 416
Gas-Stove Oven, Substitute for, 45
Gas Stove, Safety Cover for Valves on, 298
Gasoline Stove, Denatured Alcohol to Start, 413
Gasoline Tank on Launch, Lock for, 85
Gate, Barnyard, Operated with the Foot, 208
Gate on Door, Locking Device for Latch Hook on, 127
Gate, Porch, Folds into Hollow Pillar, 193
Gate Sign with Metal Letters, Homemade, 451
Gauge for Laying Out Model Gear Wheels, 384
Gauge for Woodwork, 252
Gear Wheels, Model, Gauge for Laying Out, 384
Geese, Feeding in a Poultry Yard, 373
Generator Attachment Provides Current for Bicycle Lamp, 457
Giant, Showing Strength of, 108
Glass-and-Hat Trick, 342
Glass Bottle as a Candle Lamp, 291
Glass Bottle, Cutting with Electricity, 230
Glass, Electric Counting, for Thread Fabric, 321
Glass, Ground, in Camera, Substitute for, 236
Glass, Mystery Sounding, 157
Glass, Transferring Pictures to, 443
Glass Vessels, Pad for, Made of Corks, 161
Glider, Toy Paper, Carefully Designed, 324
Globes, Burned-Out Incandescent, Repairing, 236
Glossy, Making Photographic Prints, 76
Glossy Surfaces in Photography, Putty Deadens, 360
Gloves, Rubber, How to Repair, 286
Gluing Press, Inexpensive, 313
Golf Tee Made of a Shotgun Shell, 430
Good Putty, How to Make, 396
Gourd Float for a Fishline, 285
Grass and Weeds, To Keep Out of Tennis Court, 149
Gravity Delivery Chute, Fruit-Picking Pole with, 367
Gravity-Feed Coal Hopper on Truck, 140
Green and Red Lights, Signal Telegraph with, 176
Grinding Writing and Lettering Pens, 169
Grip, Bicycle-Handle, on Rake Handle, 372
Grip, Points of, Scale on Vaulting Pole Indicates, 411
Grips, Rubber Handlebar, Reinforcing the Ends of, 452
Groove Cutter for Wood, 45
Grotto for an Aquarium, Cement, 235
Ground Seat, Folding, with Back Rest, 190
Guard Saves Wear on Vest, 413
Guarding a Camp Chest Against Theft, 362
Guards, Hand, for Motorcyclists, 372
Guide for Photo and Paper Trimmer, Homemade, 366
Guide String, Seed-Planting, Reel for Use with, 422
Guides for Scenic Painting, Enlarged Lantern Pictures as, 419
Gun, Choke and Pattern of, 63
Gun, Crossbow Magazine, 458
Guns, Equipment and Books, Sportsman’s Cabinet for, 434
Gymnasium, Protecting Lights in, 337
Hacksaw-Blade, Old, Handy Paring Knife Made from, 207
Hall Seat with Storage Compartment, 312
Hammock Sleeping Tent, 242
Hammock Support, Springy, Made of Boughs, 369
Hammocks, How to Make:
Part I.--A Twine Hammock, 277
Part II.--A Netted Hammock, 282
Hand Cases, Carrying Strap and Lock for, 328
Hand Drill, Polishing with, 354
Hand-Drill Press, Oiler for, 276
Hand Guards for Motorcyclists, 372
Hand-Operated Motorboat Whistle, 178
Hand-Operated Whirling Fan, 398
Handle for a Drinking Glass, 125
Handle, Rake, Bicycle-Handle Grip on, 372
Handle, Second, on Hoe or Rake Saves Stooping, 160
Handle, Umbrella, Making Detachable, 439
Handlebar, Clip Holds Flash Lamp on as Headlight, 450
Handlebar Grips, Rubber, Reinforcing the Ends of, 452
Handles, Tool, Ferrules for, 157
Hands, Preventing Putty Sticking to, 314
Hands, To Remove Putty from, 387
Handy Tray for Pencils and Penholders, 430
Hanger, Improvised Trousers, in Train Berth, 367
Hanger, Trouser, 350
Hanging a Picture, Small Hook for, 276
Hanging Heavy Rug on Line for Beating, 389
Hanging Ladder for a Hatchway, 349
Hard Wood, Driving Screws in, 94
Hat, Marker for, 123
Hat, Old Straw, Bird House Made of, 181
Hatbox, Front-Opening, 266
Hatchway, Hanging Ladder for, 349
Hawaiian Ukulele. Homemade, 358
Headlight, Clip Holds Flash Lamp on Handlebar as, 450
Headrest for Chair, Removable, 432
Headrest for Porch Swing, 367
Heat, Working Wood by Application of, 150
Heater, Curling-Iron, 130
Heater for the Experimenter, 43
Heater in Chick Brooding House, Shield for, 295
Heater Keeps Developer at Proper Temperature, 190
Heating Apparatus, Electrical, Table Sockets for, 396
Heating Room, Electric Fan Aid to, 426
Heavy Objects, Moving with a Broom, 445
Height of Chair, Door Bumpers Raise, 358
Hens, Coop for Sitting, 360
Hickory Sapling, Swing Made of, 335
Hides, Small Fur, Stretcher for Drying, 421
High Chair, 318
High Stool, How to Make, 378
Hikers, Kitchen for, 132
Hinge, Double-Swing, Plain Butts Used as, 330
Hinge Lock for Horizontal Sliding Windows, 372
Hinge Wings, Covering, 276
Hinged Box Cover Made Without Hinges, 141
Hinged Window Box, 413
Hinges, Box Cover Without, 46
Hinges, Hinged Box Cover Made Without, 141
Hoe or Rake, Second Handle on, Saves Stooping, 160
Holder, Drinking-Glass, 134
Holder for Household Ice Pick, 335
Holder, Knee-Rest, for Milking Pail, 434
Holder, Knife, Fork, and Spoon, 40
Holder, Playing-Card, 414
Holder, Revolving Card or Ticket, 369
Holder, Sanitary, for Thread and Dental Floss, 46
Holder, Shaving-Brush, 76
Holders, Drinking-Glass, Easily Made, 197
Hole, Countersinking Smoothly, 345
Hollow Candy Figures, Mold for Making, 122
Hollow Pillar, Porch Gate Folds into, 193
Home, Decorative Toys and Boxes Made at, 299
Home, Gas Mantles Made at, 274
Home Portraiture, Portable Skylight for, 330
Home Use, Convenient Type of Mail Box for, 211
Home Workbench, Two Simple Vises for, 197
Hook, Clothespin-Basket, 400
Hook, Small, for Hanging a Picture, 276
Hooks, Overhead, Device for Suspending Parcels from, 162
Hoop, Child’s Bell-Ringing, 449
Horizontal Sliding Windows, Hinge Lock for, 372
Horizontal Sundial Plate, Laying Out, 436
Horn, Auto, for Child’s Play Vehicle, 16
Horn Match Holder, Ornamental, 247
Horse-Drawn Sod Cutter, 229
Horse, Toy, That Walks, 363
Horseshoe Nail, String-Cutting Ring Made of, 5
Hot-Air Register, Catch-All Screen Inside, 432
Hot Dishes, Attractive Table Stands for, 210
Hourglass Sewing Basket, 137
House, Chick Brooding, Shield for Heater in, 295
House Key, Concealing, 70
House, Pigeon, 403
Houseboat, How to Make, 143
Hunter’s Knife, Locking Sheath for, 428
Hydraulic Turbine, Small, 427
Hydrogen, Filling Toy Rubber Balloons with, 30
Ice Creeper, 94
Ice Pick, Household, Holder for, 335
Ice Sled, Folding, 44
Ice Yacht, Wishbone-Mast, 17
Illuminated Indicating Target Box, 180
Illuminating-Gas Plant, Miniature, 379
Illumination, Reflected-Light, with Homemade Arrangement, 128
Imitation-Celluloid Scales and Name Plates, 353
Imitation Fire, Inexpensive, 226
Impressions of Leaves, Making, 100
Improvement on Pocket Flash Lamps, 267
Improvised Trousers Hanger in Train Berth, 367
Improvised Typewriter Desk, 225
Incandescent Globes, Repairing Burned-Out, 236
Incubator Chicks, Stepmother for, 130
Index Card, Removal Marker for, 372
Index for Popular Mechanics Magazine on Bookshelf, 308
Index Trays, Novel Covered Box for, 414
Indian Snake Game, 388
Indicating Target Box, Illuminated, 180
Indicator, Simple Polarity, 422
Indicator, Spool-and-Pencil, Telegraph Recorder with, 171
Indirect-Light Reflector and Mirror, Combination, 460
Inexpensive Dry-Plate Kit, 326
Inexpensive Gluing Press, 313
Inexpensive Imitation Fire, 226
Inexpensive Materials, Homemade Relay of, 332
Inkstand Made of Sheet of Paper, 136
Inkwell Base Made from Fuse Socket, 344
Inner Tubes, Old, Rubber Bands Made from, 268
Insect Bites, Ammonia-Carrying Case for, 154
Inserting or Correcting on Typewritten Bound Sheets, 419
Instrument Bases, How to Polish, 30
Instruments, Wood-Wind, Repairing, 174
Invalid in Bed, Folding Card Table Handy for, 308
Inverted Electric-Light Fixture, Homemade, 435
Iron, Electric, Variety of Uses for, 14
Iron Pipe, Coal Hod Made from, 129
Ironing Board, Folding, Clamps on Edge of Table or Window, 8
Ironing Board for Use on a Table, 315
Ironing-Board Wall Fastening, 318
Ironing or Shop Use, Gas-Hose Bracket for, 366
Irrigation Water, Current of Canal Raises, 411
Jack, Changing Motor-Car Tire Without, 210
Jardinière Made of Metal-Lamp Body, 226
Jars, Acid, Earthen Mustard Pots Used as, 391
Jars, Removable Paraffin Covers for, 298
Jig-Saw Table for Vise, 93
Jobs, Odd, Practical Memorandum for, 322
Joining Broken Liquid Column in Thermometer, 366
Kegs, Bird House Made of, 134
Kerosene Fumes, Cleaning a Clock with, 324
Key, Combination, Wooden Lock with, 13
Key, House, Concealing, 70
Key Ring Used as a Cover Fastener, 430
Keys, Typewriter Space and Shift, Pedals for Increase Speed, 364
Kink, Handy, in Addressing Mailing Tubes, 458
Kinks for the Talking Machine, 179
Kinks in Washing Photographic Negatives and Prints, 181
Kinks on the Care of Umbrellas, 422
Kinks, Three Bathroom, 402
Kit, Inexpensive Dry-Plate, 326
Kit, Soldier’s or Traveler’s, for Sundries and Toilet Articles, 453
Kitchen for Hikers, 132
Kitchen, Slicing Board for Camp or, 247
Kitchen Utensils, Cupboard for, 396
Kitchenette, Sideboard Converted into, 192
Kite, Camera for Taking Pictures from, 52
Kite, Eight-Pointed Star, 159
Kite, Releasing Parachute from, 354
Kites, Combined, How to Make:
Part I.--A Dragon Kite, 145
Part II.--A Festooned Kite, 155
Knee-Rest Holder for Milking Pail, 434
Knife, Fork, and Spoon Holder, 40
Knife, Hunter’s, Locking Sheath for, 428
Knife, Pruning and Brush-Cutting, 449
Knife, to Trim Magazines for Binding, 286
Knob, Broken Coffee Pot, Replacing, 226
Knock-Down Tennis-Court Backstop, 189
Knot, Sheepshank, Used to Recover Rope, 168
Ladder for a Hatchway, Hanging, 349
Lamp and Mirror, Shaving, for Camp, 162
Lamp, Candle, Glass Bottle as, 291
Lamp Cooker, 294
Lamp, Homemade Trouble, 365
Lamp, Piano or Reading, 290
Lamp, Small Desk, Supported by Paper Weight, 424
Lamp, Smoking of, Overcome by Increasing Draft, 361
Lamp Wicks Cheaply Made, 236
Lamps, Pocket Flash, Improvement on, 267
Lantern, Camp, Made of a Tin Can, 406
Lantern Pictures, Enlarged, as Guides for Scenic Painting, 419
Lard Buckets, Deodorizing, 340
Latch Hook on Gate or Door, Locking Device for, 127
Latch, Quickly Made Door, 123
Lathe, Making Small Ratchet Wheels in, 266
Launch, Lock for Gasoline Tank on, 85
Laundry Tub and Dishwashing Sink, Combination, 218
Lawn Benches Made from Old Bedsteads, 174
Lawn Mower, How to Use, 171
Lawn Mower Sharpened Efficiently with Simple Rigging, 448
Lawn Seats Built on Tree Stumps, 141
Lawns, Seeding Bare Spots on, 167
Laying Out a Horizontal Sundial Plate, 436
Laying Out Model Gear Wheels, Gauge for, 384
Lead Pencil, Measuring Resistance with, 249
Lead Screw, Experimental, How to Make, 31
Lead Soldiers and Similar Small Castings, Making, 455
Leaks in Pipes, Repairing, 212
Leather and Silk Bookmark, 218
Leather Billfold, Craftsman, 446
Leather Tire Patch, 400
Leaves, Flowers and, Reproducing: in Colors, 152
Leaves, Making Impressions of, 100
Leaves, Preserving in Specimen Book, 10
Left Hand, Spoon Attachment to Prevent Child from Using, 317
Leggings, Birch-Bark, Made in the Woods, 421
Lens, Feather as X-Ray, 412
Lens, Photo-Copying, Increases Angle of Camera, 160
Lettering Pen, Split-Bamboo, 142
Lettering Photo Prints Without Marking Negative, 440
Letters, Metal, Homemade Gate Sign with, 451
Level, Homemade, 384
Lever, Tightening, for Tennis Nets, 158
Leverage on Door Spring, Angle Bracket Gives, 460
Life Buoy, Homemade, 126
Lifting Device of Rope and Lever, Emergency, 334
Light Bulb, Testing Dry Cells with, 267
Light, Emergency Dark-Room, 94
Light, Flash, Used as Bedroom Night Light, 423
Light, Homemade Arc, 285
Light, Porch, and Plant Shelf, Bark-Covered, 432
Light Reflectors, White Blotting Paper Improves, 196
Lighted Lights in Basement, Signal for, 314
Lighted Whirling Fan Used as Radiator Ornament, 260
Lighter, Gas-Stove, 416
Lighter, Non-Blow-Out Cigar and Pipe, 321
Lighting a Candle Without Touching the Wick, 334
Lighting a Match in the Wind, 382
Lightning Switch for Wireless Aerials, 415
Lights in Basement, Signal for Lighted, 314
Lights in a Gymnasium, Protecting, 337
Line, Hanging Heavy Rug on, for Beating, 389
Liner, Homemade Section, 280
Lines, Fish, Waterproofing for, 94
Linoleum Panels for Homemade Chest, 425
Liquid Column in Thermometer, Joining Broken, 366
Liquid-Filled Tray Carried Safely, 439
Liquids, Pouring Quickly from Containers, 21
Litmus Paper, Testing Direct Current Polarity with, 369
Live Poultry Weighed Handily in Funnel Scale, 442
Loading Box to Dispense with Dark Room, 268
Locating Droplight in Dark, 31
Lock Box, Automatic, for Milk Bottles, 428
Lock, Carrying Strap and, for Hand Cases, 328
Lock, Chest, Making More Secure, 94
Lock, Double, for Shed, 157
Lock, Effective Combination, Easily Made, 431
Lock for Gasoline Tank on a Launch, 85
Lock, Hinge, for Horizontal Sliding Windows, 372
Lock, Wooden, with Combination Key, 13
Locker, Boy’s Athletic-Equipment, 439
Locking Device for Latch Hook on Gate or Door, 127
Locking Device, Simple Concealed, for Cases of Drawers, 4
Locking Sheath for Hunter’s Knife, 428
Locking Window Sash, 62
Locomotive Model and Track System, Homemade Electric:
Part I.--The Motor, 231
Part II.--Construction of the Locomotive Truck and Cab, 237
Part III.--Construction of the Track System, 243
Log Raft, Woodsman’s, 185
Looseness of Drawer Handles, Preventing, 357
Luminous-Minnow Fish Bait, 314
Lumps, Mixing Stick That Breaks Up, 54
Lunch Table, Revolving Outdoor, 363
Lure for Fish, Electric, 123
Machine Gun, Toy, That Fires Wooden Bullets, 408
Magic Cabinet, 345
Magic Candles Explained, 355
Magic Clock Hand, 347
Magic of Numbers, 222
Machine Bases, Small, Sandpapering Square Edges on, 418
Machine Screws, Brass, with Nuts, 68
Machine, Simple, for Transmitting Writing, 442
Magazine on Bookshelf, Popular Mechanics, Index for, 308
Magazines, Keeping in Book Form, 378
Magazines, Knife to Trim, for Binding, 286
Magazines, Temporary Binder for, 370
Magazines, Use for Old, 399
Magic-Paper Fortune Telling, 393
Magically Naming a Written Card, 61
Magnesium Printer, Homemade, 226
Mail Box, Bell-Ringing, 422
Mail Box for Home Use, Convenient Type of, 211
Mailing, Proper Way to Wrap Papers for, 44
Mailing Tubes, Handy Kink in Addressing, 458
Mallet Made from Wagon-Wheel Felly and Spoke, 157
Mantles, Gas, Made at Home, 274
Maps, Road, Celluloid Cover for, 295
Marble-Under-Bridge Game of Skill, 298
Mark, Tossing Card at, Accurately, 69
Marker for a Hat, 123
Marker for Card Index, Removal, 372
Marking Negative, Lettering Photo Prints Without, 440
Masks, Novel, for Printing Pictures, 182
Match-Box Trick, 230
Match Holder, Ornamental Horn, 247
Match, Lighting in the Wind, 382
Match Safe of Miniature Cannon Shell, 335
Matches, Waterproofing, 230
Measuring Resistance with a Lead Pencil, 249
Mechanic, Steam-Propelled Motorcycle Made by, 191
Mechanical Toy Alligator of Wood, 460
Mechanical Toy Pigeon Made of Wood, 433
Memorandum for Odd Jobs, Practical, 322
Memorandum List for Camping and Outing Trips, 365
Mending Aluminum Cooking Utensils, 437
Merry-Go-Round, Twisting Thriller, 179
Metal Band Stiffens Brush, 367
Metal Base, Weighting, 217
Metal Bird Basin, Simple, 432
Metal-Bound Chests, Miniature, 287
Metal Cross, Repairing Broken, 389
Metal Floor Corners, 248
Metal-Lamp Body, Jardinière Made of, 226
Metal Letters, Homemade Gate Sign with, 451
Metal, Thin, Driving into Wood, 247
Method of Developing Roll Films, New, 339
Milk Bottles, Automatic Lock Box for, 428
Milk, Cleaning Tinware with, 44
Milk Strainer, Old, Pivoted Searchlight Made of, 139
Milker, “Switchboard” Protects from Cow’s Tail, 128
Milking Pail, Knee-Rest Holder for, 434
Miniature Cannon Shell, Match Safe of, 335
Miniature Cement Plant, 383
Miniature Fighting Tank, 202
Miniature Illuminating-Gas Plant, 379
Miniature Metal-Bound Chests, 287
Miniature Push Buttons, 251
Minnows for Bait, Catching, 168
Mirror, Combination Indirect-Light Reflector and, 460
Mirror Frame, Colonial, 306
Mirror, Seeing an Alternating Current in, 392
Mirror, Shaving Lamp and, for Camp, 162
Mission Candlestick, 60
Mission Center Table, Octagonal, 7
Mistakes in Model Making, Common, 394
Miter Box, Bench Support for, 336
Miter Box, Placing on the Workbench, 294
Mixing Paste, 241
Mixing Stick That Breaks up Lumps, 54
Mixture, Dry-Cleaning, 62
Model Aeroplane, Egg Beater Made into Winder for, 459
Model Gear Wheels, Gauge for Laying Out, 384
Model, Homemade Electric Locomotive and Track System:
Part I.--The Motor, 231
Part II.--Construction of the Locomotive Truck and Cab, 237
Part III.--Construction of the Track System, 243
Model Making, Common Mistakes in, 394
Model Old-Four Monoplane, How to Make, 163
Model Paper Monoplane That Can be Steered, 170
Model Paddle-Wheel Boats, 443
Model Steam Tractor Made by Boy, 410
Moist Rag and Draft, Cooling Foodstuffs with, 453
Mold for Making Hollow Candy Figures, 122
Monoplane, Model Old-Four, How to Make, 163
Monoplane, Model Paper, That Can be Stored, 170
Morris Chair with Newspaper Rack and Smoker’s Trays, 309
Mosquitoes, Camp Shelter Affords Protection from, 181
Moth-Ball Puzzle as Window-Advertising Novelty, 444
Motor Car, Boys’ Homemade, 1
Motor Controller, Simple, 250
Motor-Driven Entertainer for the Baby, 4
Motor-Driven Tire Pump, Detachable, Made of Foot Pump, 454
Motor, Fitting into Paddling Canoe, 89
Motor, Quickly Made Toy Electric, 252
Motor, Simple Self-Contained, 116
Motor, Toy Tractor Built with Dry Cell and, 9
Motorboat Whistle, Hand-Operated, 178
Motorcycle, Bicycle Fitted Up to Resemble, 441
Motorcycle Engine, Homemade Roadster with, 437
Motorcycle or Bicycle, Rear Seat for, 446
Motorcycle Stand, Stopping Rattle in, 414
Motorcycle, Steam-Propelled, Made by Mechanic, 191
Motorcycle Tires, Economy in, 188
Motorcyclist, Hand Guards for, 372
Mounting Tracing-Cloth Drawings on Muslin, 418
Moving Crates and Furniture, Three-Caster Truck for, 419
Moving Heavy Objects with a Broom, 445
Moving Train, Writing on, 228
Mucilage Brush and Container Made of a Test Tube, 335
Muffin-Pan Trays, Nail Cabinet with, 230
Muffling the Ticking of a Watch or Clock, 223
Music, Sheet, Tabs for Turning Quickly, 368
Music Stand, Book Rest for, 328
Muslin, Mounting Tracing-Cloth Drawings on, 418
Mustard Pots, Earthen, Used as Acid Jars, 391
Mysterious Watch, 70
Mystery Sounding Glass, 157
Mystic Climbing Ring, 22
Nail Cabinet with Muffin-Pan Trays, 230
Nail Carrier Made of Cans, 414
Nails, Driving to Prevent Splitting, 373
Nails, Kink for Driving, 193
Nails, Plier Drives in Backing Picture Frame, 450
Name Plates, Imitation-Celluloid Scales and, 353
Naming a Written Card, Magically, 61
Needle Cushion, Emery, on Sewing Machine, 197
Needle, Darning, Threading, 153
Needle, Split, Causes Echo on Talking Machine, 217
Needle Threader for Sewing Machine, 134
Needles, Fiber Phonograph, Device for Sharpening, 361
Needles, Uses for Worn Talking-Machine, 329
Negative Filing System, Phonographic, 434
Negative, Lettering Photo Prints Without Marking, 440
Negatives and Prints, Photographic, Kinks in Washing, 181
Negatives, Retouching, for Printing, 397
Nets, Tennis, Tightening Lever for, 158
Netted Hammock, How to Make, 282
Netting, Poultry Fence Construction Economical of, 409
New Method of Developing Roll Films, 339
Newspaper Rack and Smokers’ Trays, Morris Chair with, 309
Newspaper Stand, Penny-in-the-Slot, 364
Night Light, Bedroom, Flash Light Used as, 423
Non-Blow-Out Cigar and Pipe Lighter, 321
Nontangling Pasture Stake, 136
Novel Covered Box for Index Trays, 414
Novel Masks for Printing Pictures, 182
Novel Uses for Safety Pins, 445
Novelty, Window-Advertising, Moth-Ball Puzzle as, 444
Nozzle, Spray, Made of Acetylene Burner, 248
Numbers, Magic of, 222
Nutcracker, Backwoodsman’s, 450
Nuts, Brass Machine Screws with, 68
Oarlock of Rope, Emergency, 218
Oars Flattened to Make Rowing Easier, 319
Oars, Take-Down Emergency, 395
Octagonal Mission Center Table, 7
Odd Jobs, Practical Memorandum for, 322
Oilcan, Old, Pressure Spray Made of, 212
Oilcan Stopper, 349
Oiler for a Hand-Drill Press, 276
Oiling Sewing Machine, Prevents Soiling Goods After, 402
Oiling Tool for Clocks, 107
Old Toothbrushes, Uses for, 428
One-Piece Bracelet Cut from Calling Card, 319
One-Runner Sled, 45
Onlaying Script on a Trophy Cup, 188
Opening, Rectangular, to Use Over Camera View Finder, 125
Opening Screw, Watch Bezel, Rubber Pads for, 448
Opening Springs for a Tennis-Racket Clamp, 393
Order-Memo Device for Delivery Routes, 443
Orient, Pulley and Weight Exerciser Homemade in, 365
Ornament, Radiator, Lighted Whirling Fan Used as, 260
Ornamental Horn Match Holder, 247
Ornamental Pencil and Pincushion Holder, 286
Ornamenting an Old Tree Stump, 123
Outdoor Lunch Table, Revolving, 363
Outing Trips, Camping and Memorandum List for, 365
Outlet, Water-Jacket, Bilge Water Siphoned Through, 413
Oven, Gas-Stove, Substitute for, 45
Pad, Combined Label and Cover, for Preserve Glasses, 4
Pad for Glass Vessels Made of Corks, 161
Pad, Record-Cleaning, Fixed to Talking Machine, 444
Paddle, Broken Canoe, Repairing, 158
Paddle, Knack of Handling, 102
Paddle-Wheel Boats, Model, 443
Paddling Canoe, Fitting Motor into, 89
Paddling Canoe, Open, Sailing, 86
Paddling Your Own Canoe:
Part I.--Kinds of Canoes, 95
Part II.--Knack of Handling Paddle, 102
Pail, Fisherman’s, with Wire-Mesh Cage, 454
Pail, Milking, Knee-Rest Holder for, 434
Pail, Tin, Safety Flue Stopper Made of, 328
Pail, Vacuum, How to Make, 315
Pail, Valve-Bottom, for Dipping Water, 344
Painter’s Knife, Scoop on, Catches Scrapings, 365
Painting, Scenic, Enlarged, Lantern Pictures as Guides for, 419
Pan, Feeding, for Poultry, 248
Pan, Frying, Made of Tin Cover, 298
Panels, Linoleum, for Homemade Chest, 425
Paper Glider, Toy, Carefully Designed, 324
Paper, Inkstand Made of Sheet of, 136
Paper Muslin, Portable Tent Made from an Umbrella and, 364
Paper, Straightening Sheets of, 456
Paper Trimmer, Photo and, Homemade Guide for, 366
Paper Warships, Toy, 293
Paper Weight, Small Desk Lamp Supported by, 424
Paper, Wire Clips Weight in Typewriter, 409
Papers, Proper Way to Wrap for Mailing, 44
Parachute, Releasing from a Kite, 354
Parade, Cart for Carrying Huge Drum in, 435
Paraffin Covers for Jars, Removable, 298
Parcel Carrier, Handy, with Caster Supports, 6
Parcel-Delivery Bicycle, Sidecar for, 407
Parcels, Device for Suspending from Overhead Hooks, 162
Paring Knife, Handy, Made from Old Hacksaw Blade, 207
Parlor Cue Alley, 341
Parlor Table, 151
Paste, Mixing, 241
Paste Pot, Utilizing Empty, 306
Paste, Squeezing from Tubes, 391
Paste Tubes, Wall Pocket for, 16
Pasteboard Box, Shortening, 337
Pasture Stake, Nontangling, 136
Patch, Leather Tire, 400
Patching Canvas Bottom of a Canoe, 430
Pattern of Gun, Choke and, 63
Patterns, Castings Without, 374
Pedals for Typewriter Space and Shift Keys Increase Speed, 364
Pen, Ordinary, Converted into Fountain Pen, 362
Pen, Revolving-Wheel Ruling, 134
Pen, Split-Bamboo Lettering, 142
Pencil and Clip, Improvised Penholder Made with, 457
Pencil and Pincushion Holder, Ornamental, 286
Pencil Holder for Workbench, 236
Pencil, Lead, Measuring Resistance with, 249
Pencil Sharpener, Cleanly, 247
Pencil Sharpener Made of Wafer Razor Blade, 361
Pencils and Penholders, Handy Tray for, 430
Pencils, Roll-Film Spools Useful in Economizing, 170
Penholder, Improvised, Made with Pencil and Clip, 457
Penholders, Pencils and, Handy Tray for, 430
Penny-in-the-Slot Newspaper Stand, 364
Pens, Grinding Writing and Lettering, 169
Periscope Which a Boy Can Make, Useful, 305
Perpetual Calendar, 43
Perpetual-Motion Puzzle, 138
Perpetual Whirligig, 400
Phonograph Needles, Fiber, Device for Sharpening, 361
Photo and Paper Trimmer, Homemade Guide for, 366
Photo-Copying Lens Increases Angle of Camera, 160
Photo Films, Drying, Rapidly, 338
Photo-Print Washing Device, Automatic, 329
Photo Prints, Lettering Without Marking Negative, 440
Photographic Developing, Film Holder for, 452
Photographic Developing Tank, Reversible, 325
Photographic Films, Stenciling with, 416
Photographic-Negative Filing System, 434
Photographic Negatives and Prints, Kinks in Washing, 181
Photographic-Print Washing Machine, 327
Photographic Printing Machine, 333
Photographic Prints, Making Glossy, 76
Photographic Trays, Making, 406
Photographic Workroom, Daylight, Red Windows in, 169
Photographing Electric Sparks, 399
Photographs in Falling Snow, Taking, 140
Photography, Bird, Camera for, 426
Photography, Putty Deadens Glossy Surface in, 360
Piano or Reading Lamp, 290
Pick-Up Material, Garden Plow Made of, 227
Picture Frame, Plier Drives Nails in Backing, 450
Picture Frame, Sailors’ Sweetheart, 268
Picture Frames, Novel Homemade, 124
Picture, Small Hook for Hanging, 276
Pictures, Camera for Taking, from Kite, 52
Pictures, Enlarged Lantern, as Guides for Scenic Painting, 419
Pictures, Novel Masks for Printing, 182
Pictures, Shielding from Damp Walls, 338
Pictures, Transferring to Glass, 443
Pie-Plate Gas Heater, 423
Pigeon House, 403
Pigeon, Mechanical Toy, Made of Wood, 433
Pigeonhole, Desk-Light Arm Folds into, 452
Pile Driver, Small Working, 215
Pillar, Hollow, Porch Gate Folds into, 193
Pin Setter for Home Tenpins, 61
Pincushion Holder, Ornamental Pencil and, 286
Pincushion, Wire-Screen, 456
Pipe Lighter, Non-Blow-Out Cigar and, 321
Pipe Straps, Bottle Carrier Made of, 217
Pipe, Water, Broken Spade Handle Repaired with, 242
Pipes, Child’s Swing Built of, in Narrow Space, 358
Pipes, Repairing Leaks in, 212
Pitch or Wax, Frayed Shoe Laces Repaired with, 129
Plane, Block, Converted for Use on Circular Work, 211
Planing Thin Sticks Held in Flooring Groove, 218
Plans in a Shop, Protecting, 376
Plant, Miniature Cement, 383
Plant, Miniature Illuminating-Gas, 379
Plant Shelf, Bark-Covered Porch Light and, 432
Plants, Garden, Starting, 373
Plaster of Paris to Set Screws into Wall, 266
Plate Holder, Using as Printing Frame, 408
Play Area, Baby’s, Portable Fence for, 195
Play Auto, Barrel Staves as Springs for, 311
Play or Stage Use, Comic Chest Expander for, 429
Playground Swings, Bearing for, 276
Playing-Card Holder, 414
Playing Talking-Machine Records with the Finger Nail, 187
Plier Drives Nails in Backing Picture Frame, 450
Plow, Garden, Made of Pick-Up Material, 227
Pneumatic Door Check Made of Bicycle Pump, 169
Pocket, Flash Lamps, Improvement on, 267
Pocket, Wall, for Paste Tubes, 16
Pointer, Timing, on Watch Crystal, 364
Points of Grip, Scale on Vaulting Pole Indicates, 411
Polarity, Direct Current, Testing with Litmus Paper, 369
Polarity Indicator, Simple, 422
Pole, Fruit-Picking, with Gravity Delivery Chute, 367
Pole Supports Rug for Cleaning, 10
Polish Instrument Bases, How to, 30
Polisher, Flatiron, 399
Polishing with a Hand Drill, 354
Pop-Corn Cakes, How to Make, 153
Popular Mechanics Magazine on Bookshelf, Index for, 308
Porch Gate Folds into Hollow Pillar, 193
Porch Light and Plant Shelf, Bark-Covered, 432
Porch Swing, 167
Porch Swing, Headrest for, 367
Porch Swing Made from Automobile Seat, 425
Porch Swings, Safety Spring for, 297
Portable Fence for Baby’s Play Area, 195
Portable Fire Screen, 68
Portable Folding Boat, 135
Portable Sectional Poultry Fencing, 329
Portable Skylight for Home Portraiture, 330
Portable Tent Made from an Umbrella and Paper Muslin, 364
Portraiture, Home, Portable Skylight for, 330
Post-Card Projector and Enlarging Camera, Improvised, 209
Posts for Tennis Court, Removable, 415
Pot, Empty Paste, Utilizing, 306
Pots, Earthen Mustard, Used as Acid Jars, 391
Potted Flowers, Turntable Stand for, 308
Poultry, Concrete Water Basin for, 236
Poultry Coops, Double Roofs Provide Ideal Shade for, 180
Poultry, Feeding Pan for, 248
Poultry Fence Construction Economical of Netting, 409
Poultry Fencing, Portable Sectional, 329
Poultry-House Door Latch, Spring Roost Releases, 448
Poultry House, Trap Nest for, 455
Poultry, Live, Weighed Handily in Funnel Scale, 442
Poultry Yard, Feeding Geese in, 373
Pouring Liquids Quickly from Container, 21
Practical Memorandum for Odd Jobs, 322
Practical Uses for Old Button Clasps, 432
Practice Batting for Baseball Playing, 100
Preserve Glasses, Combined Label and Cover Pad for, 4
Preserving Leaves in Specimen Book, 10
Press, Hand-Drill, Oiler for, 276
Preventing Looseness of Drawer Handles, 357
Prevents Soiling Goods After Oiling Sewing Machine, 402
Printer, Developing-Paper, 375
Printer, Homemade Magnesium, 226
Printing Frame, Using Plate Holder as, 408
Printing Machine, Photographic, 333
Printing Pictures, Novel Masks for, 182
Printing, Retouching Negatives for, 397
Printing Surface, Curved, for Sharp Focus in Bromide Enlargements, 186
Prints, Photographic, Making Glossy, 76
Prints, Photographic Negatives and, Kinks in Washing, 181
Projector, Post-Card, and Enlarging Camera, Improvised, 209
Propeller Blades, How to Make Quickly, 395
Protect Extra Spark Plugs, Box to, 440
Protecting an Air Pump Against Denting, 412
Protecting Light in a Gymnasium, 337
Protecting Plans in a Shop, 376
Protecting Wall Back of Range or Sink, 354
Protection from Mosquitoes, Camp Shelter Affords, 181
Protector, Book and Document, 294
Pruning and Brush-Cutting Knife, 449
Pulley and Weight Exerciser Homemade in the Orient, 365
Pulley Slings, Canoe or Boat Stored in, 361
Pump, Bicycle, Cleaning Type Cases with, 451
Pump, Detachable Motor-Driven Tire, Made of Foot Pump, 454
Pump, Small Rotary, Easily Made, 451
Push Button, Doorbell, on Screen Door, 150
Push Buttons, Miniature, 251
Putty Deadens Glossy Surfaces in Photography, 360
Putty, Good, How to Make, 396
Putty, To Prevent Sticking to the Hands, 314
Putty, To Remove from Hands, 387
Puzzle, Moth-Ball, as Window-Advertising Novelty, 444
Puzzle, Perpetual-Motion, 138
Quick-Acting Bench Vise, 85
Rabbits, Tile Trap for, 184
Rack, Sewing, Attached to Rocker, 291
Radiator Cover, Summer, Serves as Cupboard in Winter, 297
Radiator Ornament, Lighted Whirling Fan Used as, 260
Radiator Valve, Ship’s-Wheel Device for, 259
Raft, Woodsman’s Log, 185
Rain Alarm with Drop-of-Water Contact, 161
Raising and Lowering Curtain at a Distance, 22
Raising the Temperature of a Room, 356
Rake Handle, Bicycle-Handle Grip on, 372
Rake, Hoe or, Second Handle on, Saves Stooping, 160
Range or Sink, Protecting Wall Back of, 354
Rat Trap, Self-Setting, 31
Ratchet Wheels, Small, Making in a Lathe, 266
Rattle in Motorcycle Stand, Stopping, 414
Rattling of Door, Eccentric Drawbolt Stops, 457
Rattling of Windows, To Stop, 417
Razor Blade, Wafer, Pencil Sharpener Made of, 361
Reading Lamp, Piano or, 290
Readings, Temperature, Transposing, 376
Rear Seat for Motorcycle or Bicycle, 446
Receptacles, Bench, for Small Articles, 350
Receptacle for Shellac Varnish, 346
Record-Cleaning Pad Fixed to Talking Machine, 444
Record Time of Appointments and Other Events, Clock Device to, 322
Recording Annunciator Target, 310
Records, Disk Talking-Machine, Played Eccentrically, 328
Records, Talking-Machine, Playing with the Finger Nail, 187
Rectangular Opening to Use over Camera View Finder, 125
Red Lens Hinged to Flash Light, for Dark-Room Use, 6
Red Lights, Green and, Signal Telegraph with, 176
Red Windows in Daylight Photographic Workroom, 169
Reed Furniture, Woven, 261, 269
Reed Handle, Repairing Broken, 187
Reel for Use with Seed-Planting Guide String, 422
Reflected-Light Illumination with Homemade Arrangement, 128
Reflector and Mirror, Combination Indirect-Light, 460
Reflectors, Light, White Blotting Paper Improves, 196
Refrigerator, Making Use of in Winter, 344
Refrigerator, Window, 323
Refuse-Catching Drawer, Wood Box with, 114
Register, Hot-Air, Catch-All Screen Inside, 432
Reinforcing a Strained Auto-Truck Frame, 454
Reinforcing the Ends of Rubber Handlebar Grips, 452
Relay of inexpensive Materials, Homemade, 332
Releasing a Parachute from a Kite, 354
Removable Drawer Stop, 10
Removable Headrest for Chair, 432
Removable Paraffin Covers for Jars, 298
Removable Posts for Tennis Court, 415
Removal Marker for Card Index, 372
Removal of Wall Paper, Kink for, 295
Remove Putty from Hands, 387
Removing Sag from Couch Spring, 430
Repair Rubber Gloves, How to, 286
Repairing a Brass Candlestick, 372
Repairing a Broken Canoe Paddle, 158
Repairing a Broken Fly-Screen Frame, 356
Repairing a Broken Metal Cross, 389
Repairing a Broken Reed Handle, 187
Repairing Burned-Out Incandescent Globes, 236
Repairing Sectional Spun-Metal Candlestick, 382
Repairing Shade-Roller Springs, 338
Replacing a Broken Coffee Pot Knob, 226
Reproducing Flowers and Leaves in Colors, 152
Resistance, Measuring with a Lead Pencil, 249
Retouching Negatives for Printing, 397
Reversible Photographic Developing Tank, 325
Reversing Switch, Cylinder, 297
Revolving Card or Ticket Holder, 369
Revolving Outdoor Lunch Table, 363
Revolving-Wheel Ruling Pen, 134
Revolving Window Display, 229
Rheostat, Small, for Experiments and Testing, 206
Rheostat, Water, for Small Electrical Devices, 196
Rifle, Sporting, and How to Use It, 47
Rigging Economizes Space in Closet, 433
Rigging, Simple, Lawn Mower Sharpened Efficiently with, 448
Ring-and-Egg Trick, 84
Ring, Mystic Climbing, 22
Ring, String-Cutting, Made of Horseshoe Nail, 5
Rip in Tire Tubes, Checking, 354
Rivets in Couches, Substitute for, 371
Road Maps, Celluloid Cover for, 295
Roadster with Motorcycle Engine, Homemade, 437
Rocker, Developing or Etching-Tray, 218
Rocker, Sewing Rack Attached to, 291
Rod for Picking Fruit, Tin Can on, 54
Rods, Round, for Fish Poles, Making, 40
Rods, Turning Long Wood, 349
Roll-Film Spools Useful in Economizing Pencils, 170
Roll Films, New Method of Developing, 339
Roll-Paper Feed for Typewriter, 207
Roller, Shade, Toy Submarine Made of, 441
Roller Skates, Homemade, 377
Roller Truck for Use in Scrubbing, 210
Rolling Can, Come-Back, 298
Roofs, Double, Provide Ideal Shade for Poultry Coops, 180
Room, Dark, Loading Box to Dispense with, 268
Room, Electric Fan Aid to Heating, 426
Room, Raising Temperature of, 356
Roost, Spring, Releases Poultry-House Door Latch, 448
Rope and Lever, Emergency Lifting Device of, 334
Rope, Emergency Oarlock of, 218
Rope Pad Prevents Slamming of Door, 440
Rope, Sheepshank, Knot Used to Recover, 168
Rope, Weighted, Holds Flag Upright, 451
Roses Tinged Blue by Chemicals, 406
Rotary Pump, Small, Easily Made, 451
Round and Flat Edges, Ruler with, 350
Round Rods for Fish Poles, Making, 40
Rowing, Oars Flattened to Make Easier, 319
Rubber Balloons, Toy, Filling with Hydrogen, 30
Rubber Band, Making Scale Enlargements with, 175
Rubber Band Prevents Tangling of Telephone Cord, 367
Rubber Bands Made from Old Inner Tubes, 268
Rubber Faucet Plug, Coffee Grinder Repaired with, 129
Rubber Gloves, How to Repair, 286
Rubber Pads for Opening Screw Watch Bezel, 448
Rubbers, Drying Rack for Shoes and, 454
Rudder for a Toboggan, 323
Rug, Heavy, Hanging on Line for Beating, 389
Rug, Pole Supports, for Cleaning, 10
Ruler with Round and Flat Edges, 350
Ruling Pen, Revolving-Wheel, 134
Ruling Uniform Cards or Sheets, Aid in, 420
Running Board of Automobile, Suitcase Holder for, 329
Rust, Keeping Tools Bright and Free from, 212
Rustic Trellis to Shade Door or Window, 175
Rustic Well for a Bazaar or Fair Booth, 182
Safeguarding Contents of Unsealed Envelopes, 363
Safety Brake, Coaster with, 273
Safety Chopping Block, 187
Safety Cover for Valves on Gas Stove, 298
Safety Flue Stopper Made of Tin Pail, 328
Safety Pins, Novel Uses for, 445
Safety Spring for Porch Swings, 297
Sag, Removing from Couch Spring, 430
Sail-Rigged Wind Motor, 172
Sailing the Open Paddling Canoe, 86
Sailors’ Sweetheart Picture Frame, 268
Sal-Ammoniac, Renewing Dry Batteries with, 14
Salt-and-Pepper Holder, Camper’s, 115
Sandpapering Square Edges on Small Machine Bases, 418
Sanitary Drinking Tube, 69
Sanitary Holder for Thread and Dental Floss, 46
Sapling, Hickory, Swing Made of, 335
Scale Enlargements, Making with a Rubber Band, 175
Scale Funnel, Live Poultry Weighed Handily in, 442
Scale on Vaulting Pole Indicates Points of Grip, 411
Scaler, Fish, 154
Scales and Name Plates, Imitation-Celluloid, 353
Scarecrow, Cat-and-Bells, 426
Scarecrow, Swinging Bags on Arms of, 340
Scenic Painting, Enlarged Lantern Pictures as Guides for, 419
Scissors Blades, Keeping Apart Lengthens Their Service, 454
Scoop Made of Box End, 433
Scoop on Painter’s Knife Catches Scrapings, 365
Scraper for Dishes, 337
Scraper for Tennis Court, 311
Scrapings, Scoop on Painter’s Knife Catches, 365
Screen, Catch-All, Inside Hot-Air Register, 432
Screen-Door Check, Homemade, 392
Screen Door, Device Frightens Flies at, 425
Screen Door, Doorbell Push Button on, 150
Screen, Fluorescent, How to Make, 92
Screen, Focusing, for Enlarging Cameras, 388
Screw, Experimental Lead, How to Make, 31
Screw Hooks, Putting in Neatly, 312
Screw Watch Bezel, Rubber Pads for Opening, 448
Screwdriver Made from Buttonhook, 362
Screws, Driving in Hard Wood, 94
Screws, Plaster of Paris to Set into Wall, 266
Script on a Trophy Cup, Onlaying, 188
Scrubbing and Floorwork, Caster Board for, 293
Scrubbing, Roller Truck for Use in, 210
Searchlight, Pivoted, Made of Old Milk Strainer, 139
Seat, Automobile, Porch Swing Made from, 425
Seat, Combination Workshop, 370
Seat, Folding Ground, with Back Rest, 190
Seat for Garden Workers, Movable Sunshade and, 148
Seat, Fuel Box in, Filled from Floor Trapdoor, 332
Seat, Hall, with Storage Compartment, 312
Seat, Homemade Spring Wagon, 440
Seat, Rear, for Motorcycle or Bicycle, 446
Seats, Lawn, Built on Tree Stump, 141
Second Handle on Hoe or Rake Saves Stooping, 160
Secret Trinket Case for the Bookshelf, 296
Section Liner, Homemade, 280
Sectional Poultry Fencing, Portable, 329
Sectional Spun-Metal Candlesticks, Repairing, 382
Secure, Making Chest Lock More, 94
Seed-Planting Guide String, Reel for Use with, 422
Seeding Bare Spots on Lawns, 167
Seeing an Alternating Current in a Mirror, 392
Self-Setting Rat Trap, 31
Set of Electric Chimes, 368
Sewing Basket, Hourglass, 137
Sewing Machine, Emery Needle Cushion in, 197
Sewing Machine, Needle Threader for, 134
Sewing Machine, Prevents Soiling Goods After Oiling, 402
Sewing-Machine Thread, Preventing from Tangling, 382
Sewing Rack Attached to Rocker, 291
Sewing Stand with Workbag in Top, 293
Shade and Curtains, Bedroom, Arranged for Thorough Ventilation, 128
Shade, Ideal, Double Roofs Provide for Poultry Coops, 180
Shade-Roller Springs, Repairing, 338
Shade Roller, Toy Submarine Made of, 441
Sharpener, Table-Knife, 22
Sharpening Fiber Phonograph Needles, Device for, 361
Shaving-Brush Holder, 76
Shaving Lamp and Mirror for Camp, 162
Sheath for Hunter’s Knife, Locking, 428
Shed, Double Lock for, 157
Sheepshank Knot Used to Recover Rope, 168
Sheet-Metal Stand for Flatiron, 182
Sheet Music, Tabs for Turning Quickly, 368
Sheets of Paper, Straightening, 456
Sheets, Typewritten Bound, Inserting or Correcting on, 419
Sheets, Uniform Cards or, Aid in Ruling, 420
Shellac Varnish, Receptacle for, 346
Shelves, Wall, Easily Constructed, 108
Shield for Heater in Chick Brooding House, 295
Shielding Pictures from Damp Wall, 338
Shipment, Convenient, Trunk Bookcase for, 217
Ship’s-Wheel Device for a Radiator Valve, 259
Shoe Laces, Frayed, Repaired with Pitch or Wax, 129
Shoe-Polishing Strop, 344
Shoes and Rubbers, Drying Rack for, 454
Shoes, Tan, To Keep from Turning Dark, 377
Shop, Protecting Plans in, 376
Shop Use, Ironing or, Gas-Hose Bracket for, 366
Shortening a Pasteboard Box, 337
Shotgun and How to Use It:
Part I.--How a Shotgun is Made, 55
Part II.--Choke and Pattern of a Gun, 63
Shotgun Shell, Fishing-Tackle Outfit in, 142
Shotgun Shell, Golf Tee Made of, 430
Shoulder-Pack Tent, Homemade, 131
Sideboard Converted into Kitchenette, 192
Sidecar for a Parcel-Delivery Bicycle, 407
Sign, Homemade Gate, with Metal Letters, 451
Signal for Lighted Lights in Basement, 314
Signal Telegraph with Green and Red Lights, 176
Signboard, Antique, Made of Headboard of Bed, 15
Silverware, Cleaning, 158
Simple Barometer, 415
Simple Concealed Locking Device for Cases of Drawers, 4
Sink, Dishwashing, Combination Laundry Tub and, 218
Sink, Old, Installed as Dish-Draining Basin, 452
Sink, Protecting Wall Back of Range or, 354
Sitting Hens, Coop for, 360
Skates, Homemade Roller, 377
Ski Sled, 41
Skill, Marble-Under-Bridge Game of, 298
Skis and Ski Running:
Part I.--Prominent Types of Modern Skis, 23
Part II.--Running, Jumping and Climbing, 33
Skylight, Portable, for Home Portraiture, 330
Slamming of Door, Rope Pad Prevents, 440
Sled, Folding Ice, 44
Sled, One-Runner, 45
Sled, Ski, 41
Sleeping Tent, Hammock, 242
Sleeve Aids in Distinguishing Gas-Fixture Chains, 247
Slicing Board for Camp or Kitchen, 247
Slide in Top of Drawer, Desk, 356
Slide Tray, Nonbinding Tool-Chest, 371
Slide, Water-Coasting Toboggan and, 183
Sliding Board for Coasting, 14
Sliding Windows, Horizontal, Hinge Lock for, 372
Small Articles, Bench Receptacles for, 350
Small Working Pile Driver, 215
Smoker’s Cabinet or Cellarette, 32
Smoker’s Trays, Morris Chair with Newspaper Rack, 309
Smoking of Lamp Overcome by Increasing Draft, 361
Snake Game, Indian, 388
Snakes Inlaid, Turned Cane with, 325
Snapper-Shell Ash Tray, 68
Snow Blocks Made in Box Form, Fort Built of, 409
Snow, Falling, Taking Photographs in, 140
Snowshoe Toe Clips, Homemade, 418
Socket, Fuse, Inkwell Base Made from, 344
Sockets, Table, for Electrical Heating Apparatus, 396
Sod Cutter, Horse-Drawn, 229
Soiling Goods After Oiling Sewing Machine, Prevents, 402
Solder, Making String, 235
Soldering, Difficult, Alcohol Blowtorch for, 382
Soldier, Compact Toilet Outfit for, 9
Soldiers, Lead, and Similar Small Castings, Making, 455
Soldier’s or Traveler’s Kit for Sundries and Toilet Articles, 453
Sounding Glass, Mystery, 157
Space in Closet, Rigging Economizes, 433
Spacer for Curtain Rings, Cord Used as, 211
Spade Handle, Broken, Repaired with Water Pipe, 242
Spark Plugs, Extra, Box to Protect, 440
Sparks, Electric, Photographing, 399
Specimen Book, Preserving Leaves in, 10
Speed, Pedals for Typewriter Space and Shift Key Increase, 364
Spit, Water Wheel Turns over Campfire, 429
Split-Bamboo Lettering Pen, 142
Split-Bamboo Tray for Top, Folding Table with, 424
Split Needle Causes Echo on Talking Machine, 217
Splitting, Driving Nails to Prevent, 373
Spokes, Wire, in Wheels, Handy Tool for Tightening, 450
Spoon Attachment to Prevent Child from Using Left Hand, 317
Sporting Rifle and How to Use It, 47
Sportsman’s Cabinet for Guns, Equipment and Books, 434
Spray Liquid in Atomizer, Bottle Economizes, 450
Spray Nozzle Made of Acetylene Burner, 248
Spray, Pressure, Made of Old Oilcan, 212
Spring for Porch Swings, Safety, 297
Spring-Roller Curtains, Automatic Stop for, 317
Spring Roost Releases Poultry-House Door Latch, 448
Spring Wagon Seat, Homemade, 440
Springs, Coiled, Winding, 134
Springs, Discarded Buggy, for Diving Board, 429
Springs, for Play Auto, Barrel Staves as, 311
Springs, Opening, for a Tennis-Racket Clamp, 393
Springs, Repairing Shade-Roller, 338
Springy Hammock Supports Made of Boughs, 369
Sprocket Drive, Belt for, Made of Brass Strips, 160
Square Edges on Small Machine Bases, Sandpapering, 418
Squeezing Paste from Tubes, 391
Squirrel-Skin Bill Fold, 265
Stage Use, Player or, Comic Chest Expander for, 429
Stake, Nontangling Pasture, 136
Stand for Flatiron, Sheet-Metal, 182
Stand for Potted Flowers, Turntable, 308
Stand for Test-Tube Flower Vase, 21
Staples, Tinned, for Bell-Circuit Wiring, 420
Star-Kite, Eight-Pointed, 159
Starting Garden Plants, 373
Steam-Propelled Motorcycle Made by Mechanic, 191
Steam Tractor, Model, Made by Boy, 410
Steel Fishing Rods, Enamel for, 349
Steel Wool as Aluminum-Ware Cleaner, 162
Steel Wool, Uses for, 348
Steering Gear, Coaster, Made from Cream-Freezer Drive, 161
Stenciling with Photographic Films, 416
Stepmother for Incubator Chicks, 130
Stick, Mixing, That Breaks Up Lumps, 54
Sticking to Hands, Preventing Putty, 314
Sticks Held in Flooring Groove, Planing Thin, 218
Stool, High, How to Make, 378
Stools, Small, and Foot Rests, Variety of, 261
Stooping, Second Handle on Rake or Hoe Saves, 160
Stop, Bench, 395
Stop for Spring-Roller Curtains, Automatic, 317
Stop, Removable Drawer, 10
Stopper for a Bunghole, 254
Stopper, Oilcan, 349
Stopping Rattle in Motorcycle Stand, 414
Storage Compartment, Hall Seat with, 312
Storage of Camp Equipment, Care and, 304
Storage of Wood for Cabinetwork, 389
Stove, Emergency Alcohol, 350
Stove, Fifty-Cent Electric, 260
Stove, Gas, for the Dining Table, 373
Stove, Gasoline, Denatured Alcohol to Start, 413
Stove Lighter with Feeding Wick Guards Against Burns, 459
Stove, Small Cooking, Economical Use of Wood Alcohol in, 210
Stoves, Emergency Camp, Quickly Made, 449
Straightening Sheets of Paper, 456
Strained Auto-Truck Frame, Reinforcing, 454
Strap, Carrying, and Lock for Hand Cases, 328
Straw Hat, Old, Bird House Made of, 181
Stretcher for Drying Small Fur Hides, 421
Strength of a Giant, Showing, 108
Striking of Clock, Electrical Device Transmits, 14
String-Cutting Ring Made of Horseshoe Nail, 5
String Solder, Making, 235
String, To Uncork a Bottle with, 402
Strips, Device for Corrugating, 421
Strop, Shoe-Polishing, 344
Stump, Ornamenting Old Tree, 123
Stumps, Tree, Lawn Seats Built on, 141
Submarine Camera, 219
Submarine, Toy, Made of Shade Roller, 441
Substitute for Gas-Stove Oven, 45
Substitute for Ground Glass in Camera, 236
Substitute for Rivets in Couches, 371
Suitcase Extension, Homemade, 360
Suitcase Holder for Running Board of Automobile, 329
Summer Camp, Diving Tower for, 274
Summer Radiator Cover Serves as Cupboard in Winter, 297
Summer Veranda, Taborets and Small Tables for, 269
Sundial Plate, Horizontal, Laying Out, 436
Sundries and Toilet Articles, Soldier’s or Traveler’s Kit, 453
Sunshade and Seat, Movable, for Garden Workers, 148
Support for Flower Centerpiece, Wire-Mesh, 344
Support for Wagon Pole Aids in Hooking Up Team, 5
Support, Springy Hammock, Made of Boughs, 369
Sweetheart, Sailor’s, Picture Frame, 268
Swimmers, Webfoot Attachments for, 381
Swing, Child’s, Built of Pipes in Narrow Space, 358
Swing, Circular, 177
Swing Made of Hickory Sapling, 335
Swing, Porch, 167
Swing, Porch, Headrest for, 367
Swing, Porch, Made from Automobile Seat, 425
Swinging Bags on Arms of Scarecrow, 340
Swings, Playground, Bearing for, 276
Swings, Safety Spring for Porch, 297
Switch, Cylinder Reversing, 297
Switch, Lightning, for Wireless Aerials, 415
“Switchboard” Protects Milker from Cow’s Tail, 128
T-Squares, Making, 101
Table, Bird, Cat-Proof, 76
Table Box for Campers, 124
Table, Combination Camp-Kitchen Cabinet and, 126
Table, Dining, Gas Stove for, 373
Table, Folding Card, Handy for Invalid in Bed, 308
Table, Folding, with Split-Bamboo Tray for Top, 424
Table, Ironing Board for Use on, 315
Table, Jig-Saw, for Vise, 93
Table-Knife Sharpener, 22
Table Lamp, Inexpensive, Made of Electrical-Fixture Parts, 127
Table Mats, Asbestos, Reinforced with Wire Netting, 421
Table, Octagonal Mission Center, 7
Table, Old, Used as Wall Workbench, 440
Table, Parlor, 151
Table, Revolving Outdoor Lunch, 363
Table Sockets for Electrical Heating Apparatus, 396
Table Stands for Hot Dishes, Attractive, 210
Table, Window Frame and, for Dark Room, 320
Tables, Small, and Taborets for the Summer Veranda, 269
Taborets and Small Tables for the Summer Veranda, 269
Tabs for Turning Sheet Music Quickly, 368
Take-Down Emergency Oars, 395
Taking Pictures from Kite, Camera for, 52
Talking-Machine Cabinet, Automatic Electric Light on, 162
Talking-Machine Cabinet, Homemade, 310
Talking Machine, Disk, as China Banding Wheel, 10
Talking Machine, Kinks for, 179
Talking-Machine Needles, Uses for Worn, 329
Talking Machine, Record-Cleaning Pad Fixed to, 445
Talking-Machine Records, Disk, Played Eccentrically, 328
Talking-Machine Records, Playing with the Finger Nail, 187
Talking Machine, Split Needle Causes Echo on, 217
Tan Shoes, To Keep from Turning Dark, 377
Tandem, Three-Wheel, Bicycles Driven as, After Breakdown, 410
Tangling of Telephone Cord, Rubber Band Prevents, 367
Tangling, Preventing Sewing-Machine Thread from, 382
Tank, Miniature Fighting, 202
Tank, Reversible Photographic Developing, 325
Target Box, Illuminated Indicating, 180
Target, Recording Annunciator, 310
Teakettle Cover Held by Dent in Edge, 5
Team, Support for Wagon Pole Aids in Hooking Up, 5
Teaspoon, Catching Large Fish with, 401
Tee, Golf, Made of a Shotgun Shell, 430
Telegraph Recorder with Spool-and-Pencil Indicator, 171
Telegraph, Signal, with Green and Red Lights, 176
Telegraph Sounder, Battery Buzzer Converted into, 141
Telephone Cord, Rubber Band Prevents Tangling of, 367
Telescope, Interesting Water, 228
Temperature of a Room, Raising, 356
Temperature, Proper, Heater Keeps Developer at, 190
Temperature Readings, Transposing, 376
Temporary Binder for Magazines, 370
Tender, Bicycle Carried on Automobile, 190
Tennis-Court Backstop, Knock-Down, 189
Tennis-Court Marker, Wheelbarrow as, 397
Tennis Court, Removable Posts for, 415
Tennis Court, Scraper for, 311
Tennis Courts, To Keep Grass and Weeds Out of, 149
Tennis Nets, Tightening Lever for, 158
Tennis-Racket Clamp, Opening Springs for, 393
Tenpins, Home, Pin Setter for, 61
Tension Weight, Emergency, Used on Typewriter, 457
Tent, Hammock Sleeping, 242
Tent, Homemade Shoulder-Pack, 131
Tent, Portable, Made from an Umbrella and Paper Muslin, 364
Test Exposures for Bromide Enlargements, 411
Test-Tube Flower Vase, Stand for, 21
Test Tube, Mucilage Brush and Container Made of, 335
Testing and Caring for Files, 400
Testing Direct Current Polarity with Litmus Paper, 369
Testing Dry Cells with Light Bulb, 267
Theft, Guarding Camp Chest Against, 362
Thermometer, Joining Broken Liquid Column, 366
Thread and Dental Floss, Sanitary Holder for, 46
Thread Fabric, Electric Counting Glass for, 321
Thread, Sewing-Machine, Preventing from Tangling, 382
Threader, Needle, for Sewing Machine, 134
Threading a Darning Needle, 153
Three-Caster Truck for Moving Crates and Furniture, 419
Thresher, Small, of Practical Use, 444
Ticket Holder, Revolving Card or, 369
Ticking of a Watch or Clock, Muffling, 223
Tightening Lever for Tennis Nets, 158
Tightening Wire Spokes in Wheels, Handy Tool for, 450
Tile Trap for Rabbits, 184
Tilting Top for Camera Tripod, 242
Time, Blotter Attached to Wrist Saves, 295
Timing Pointer on Watch Crystal, 364
Tin Can, Camp Lantern Made of, 406
Tin Can, Case for Fishhooks Made of, 267
Tin Can, Cheese Grater and Ash Tray Made from, 225
Tin Can on Rod for Picking Fruit, 54
Tin Cover, Frying Pan Made of, 298
Tin Pail, Safety Flue Stopper, 328
Tinned Staples for Bell-Circuit Wiring, 420
Tinware, Cleaning with Milk, 44
Tire, Motor-Car, Changing Without a Jack, 210
Tire Patch, 400
Tire Pump, Detachable Motor-Driven, Made of Foot Pump, 454
Tire Pump Made of Gas Piping, 419
Tire Tubes, Checking a Rip in, 354
Tires, Baby-Cab, Changing Wheels Equalizes Wear on, 446
Tires, Economy in Motorcycle, 188
Toboggan and Slide, Water-Coasting, 183
Toboggan, Coasting, Making a, 11
Toboggan Made of Old Buggy Shafts, 410
Toboggan, Rudder for, 323
Toe Clips, Homemade Snowshoe, 418
Toilet Articles, Sundries and, Soldier’s or Traveler’s Kit for, 452
Toilet Outfit, Compact, for the Soldier, 9
Tool-Chest Slide Tray, Nonbinding, 371
Tool Drawer, Convenient, Under Chair Seat, 169
Tool Handles, Ferrules for, 157
Tool, Handy, for Tightening Wire Spokes in Wheels, 450
Tool, Oiling, for Clocks, 107
Tool Rack, Yardstick on, 417
Tool Sockets in Edge of Drawing Board, 435
Tool, Weeding, 248
Tools, Keeping Bright and Free from Rust, 212
Toothbrush, Uses for Old, 428
Tooth Powder Used on Tracing Cloth, 346
Top of Drawer, Desk Slide in, 356
Top, Split-Bamboo Tray for, Folding Table with, 424
Top, Tilting, for Camera Tripod, 242
Tossing Card at Mark Accurately, 69
Towel, Disappearing, 154
Tower, Diving, for the Summer Camp, 274
Toy Alligator of Wood, Mechanical, 460
Toy Electric Motor, Quickly Made, 252
Toy Horse That Walks, 363
Toy Machine Gun Fires Wooden Bullets, 408
Toy Paper Glider Carefully Designed, 324
Toy Paper Warships, 293
Toy Pigeon, Mechanical, Made of Wood, 433
Toy Rubber Balloons, Filling with Hydrogen, 30
Toy Submarine Made of Shade Roller, 441
Toy Tractor Built with Dry Cell and Motor, 9
Toy, Wire-Walking, 180
Toys and Boxes Made at Home, Decorative, 299
Tracing-Cloth Drawings, Mounting on Muslin, 418
Tracing Cloth, Tooth Powder Used on, 346
Track System, Homemade Electric Locomotive Model and:
Part I.--The Motor, 231
Part II.--Construction of the Locomotive Truck and Cab, 237
Part III.--Construction of the Track System, 243
Tractor, Toy, Built with Dry Cell and Motor, 9
Train Berth, Improvised Trousers Hanger in, 367
Train, Writing on Moving, 228
Trammels, How to Make a Pair of, 166
Transfer Drawings, How to, 138
Transferring Pictures to Glass, 443
Transmitting Writing, Simple Machine for, 442
Transplanting, Device for Packing Earth in, 211
Transposing Temperature Readings, 376
Trap for Coyotes, 306
Trap for Rabbits, Tile, 184
Trap Nest for the Poultry House, 455
Trap, Self-Setting Rat, 31
Trapdoor, Floor, Fuel Box in Seat Filled from, 332
Traveler’s Kit, Soldier’s or, for Sundries and Toilet Articles, 453
Tray Attachment for Developing Films, 280
Tray, Developing, Cooler for, 149
Tray for Top, Split-Bamboo, Folding Table with, 424
Tray, Handy, for Pencils and Penholders, 430
Tray, Liquid-Filled, Carried Safely, 439
Tray, Nonbinding Tool-Chest Slide, 371
Trays, Cocoanut-Shell, 414
Trays, Index, Novel Covered Box for, 414
Trays, Making Photographic, 406
Trays, Muffin-Pan, Nail Cabinet with, 230
Tree Stump, Ornamenting Old, 123
Tree Stumps, Lawn Seats Built on, 141
Trellis, Rustic, to Shade Door or Window, 175
Trenches, Miniature Fighting Tank That Hurdles, 202
Trick Blotter, 354
Trick, Diminishing Card, 396
Trick, Disappearing-Coin, 144
Trick, Finger-Trap, 377
Trick, Glass-and-Hat, 342
Trick, Match-Box, 230
Trick, Ring-and-Egg, 84
Trick, Vanishing-Cuff Parlor, 127
Tricks of Camping Out:
Part I.--The Camping Outfit, 109
Part II.--Cooking in the Woods, 117
Trim Magazines for Binding, Knife to, 286
Trimmer, Photo and Paper, Homemade Guide for, 366
Trimming Board with Foot Control and Counterweight, 308
Trinket Case for the Bookshelf, Secret, 296
Tripod, Camera, Tilting Top for, 242
Trips, Memorandum List for Camping and Outing, 365
Trophy Cup, Onlaying Script on, 188
Trouble Lamp, Homemade, 365
Trouser Hanger, 350
Trousers Hanger, Improvised, in Train Berth, 367
Truck, Gravity-Feed Coal Hopper on, 140
Truck, Three-Caster, for Moving Crates and Furniture, 419
Trunk Bookcase for Convenient Shipment, 217
Tub, Combination Laundry and Dishwashing Sink, 218
Tuberculosis Cottage, A, 385
Tubes, Cardboard, for Electrical Coils, Making, 438
Tubes, Old Inner, Rubber Bands Made from, 268
Tubes, Paste, Wall Pocket for, 16
Tubes, Squeezing Paste from, 391
Tubing, Cane Made of, Contains Cigars, 430
Tug-of-War Game, Device for Finger, 319
Turbine, Small Hydraulic, 427
Turned Cane with Snakes Inlaid, 325
Turning Long Wood Rods, 349
Turning Sheet Music Quickly, Tabs for, 368
Turning, To Prevent Wire Coat Hook from, 235
Turntable Stand for Potted Flowers, 308
Twine Hammock, How to Make, 277
Twisting Thriller Merry-Go-Round, 179
Two Colors, Writing, on Plain-Ribbon Typewriter, 168
Type Cases, Cleaning with Bicycle Pump, 451
Typewriter Desk, Improvised, 225
Typewriter, Emergency Tension Weight Used on, 457
Typewriter, Feeding Cards into, 437
Typewriter, Kinks in Cleaning, 6
Typewriter, Plain-Ribbon, Writing Two Colors on, 168
Typewriter, Roll-Paper Feed for, 207
Typewriter Space and Shift Keys, Pedals for Increase Speed, 364
Typewriter, Wire Clips Weight Paper in, 409
Typewritten Bound Sheets, Inserting or Correcting on, 419
Ukulele, Homemade Hawaiian, 358
Umbrella and Paper Muslin, Portable Tent Made from, 364
Umbrella Handle, Making Detachable, 439
Umbrella Used as a Clothes Drier, 366
Umbrellas, Kinks on Care of, 422
Uncork a Bottle with a String, To, 402
Unsealed Envelopes, Safeguarding Contents of, 363
Use for Old Magazines, 399
Uses for an Old Toothbrush, 428
Uses for Worn Talking-Machine Needles, 329
Utensil Rack for Camp Fire, 397
Utensils, Kitchen, Cupboard for, 396
Utilizing an Empty Paste Pot, 306
Vacuum Pail, How to Make, 315
Valve-Bottom Pail for Dipping Water, 344
Valve, Radiator, Ship’s-Wheel Device for, 259
Valves on Gas Stove, Safety Cover for, 298
Vanishing-Cuff Parlor Trick, 127
Vaporizer, Homemade, 346
Variable Condenser, Small, 334
Vase, Test-Tube Flower, Stand for, 21
Vaulting Pole, Scale on, Indicates Points of Grip, 411
Vehicle, Child’s Play, Auto Horn for, 16
Ventilation, Thorough, Bedroom Shade and Curtains Arranged for, 128
Ventilator, Window, 312
Veranda, Summer, Taborets and Small Tables for, 269
Vest, Guard Saves Wear on, 413
Vibrator, Double-Contact, 140
View Finder, Camera, Rectangular Opening to Use Over, 125
View Finder, Direct, for Box Camera, 353
Views, Fireside Dissolving, 351
Vise, Jig-Saw Table for, 93
Vise, Quick-Acting Bench, 85
Vises for the Home Workbench, Two Simple, 197
Vulcanizer, Homemade, 323
Wagon-Wheel Felly and Spoke, Mallet Made from, 157
Wagon Pole, Support for, Aids in Hooking Up Team, 5
Wagon Seat, Homemade Spring, 440
Wall Back of Range or Sink, Protecting, 354
Wall Desk, Folding, 292
Wall Fastening, Ironing-Board, 318
Wall Paper, Kink for Removal of, 295
Wall, Plaster of Paris to Set Screws into, 266
Wall Pocket for Paste Tubes, 16
Wall Shelves, Easily Constructed, 108
Wall Workbench, Old Table Used as, 440
Walls, Damp, Shielding Pictures from, 338
Walks, Toy Horse That, 363
Warships, Toy Paper, 293
Washing Bromide Enlargements, 336
Washing Device, Automatic Photo-Print, 329
Washing Machine Equipped with Churn Attachment, 208
Washing Machine, Photographic-Print, 327
Washing Photographic Negatives and Prints, Kinks in, 181
Washstand for the Baby, 328
Wastebasket, False Bottom for Emptying, 344
Watch Bezel, Screw, Rubber Pads for Opening, 448
Watch Crystal, Timing Pointer on, 364
Watch Holder, Desk, 158
Watch, Mysterious, 70
Watch or Clock, Muffling the Ticking of, 223
Water Bag Camp, 122
Water Basin for Poultry, Concrete, 236
Water-Coasting Toboggan and Slide, 183
Water Heater, Carbon Electric, 356
Water, Irrigation, Current of Canal Raises, 411
Water-Jacket Outlet, Bilge Water Siphoned Through, 413
Water Pipe, Broken Spade Handle Repaired with, 242
Water Rheostat for Small Electrical Devices, 196
Water Telescope, Interesting, 228
Water, Valve-Bottom Pail for Dipping, 344
Water Wheel Turns Spit Over Campfire, 429
Watering Window-Box Flowers, 144
Waterproof Dry-Battery Case, 265
Waterproofing for Fish Lines, 94
Waterproofing Matches, 230
Wear on Baby-Cab Tires, Changing Wheels Equalizes, 446
Wear on Drafting Board, Cork Plugs Save, 21
Wear on Vest, Guard Saves, 413
Webfoot Attachments for Swimmers, 381
Weeding Garden, Forceps for, 338
Weeding Tool, 248
Weeds, Grass and, To Keep Out of Tennis Courts, 149
Weight, Emergency Tension, Used on Typewriter, 457
Weighted Rope Holds Flag Upright, 451
Weighting a Metal Base, 217
Well, Rustic, for Bazaar or Fair Booth, 182
Wheel, China Banding, Disk Talking Machine as, 10
Wheelbarrow as Tennis-Court Marker, 397
Wheelbarrow for Large Cans, 330
Wheels, Changing, Equalizes Wear on Baby-Cab Tires, 446
Wheels, Handy Tool for Tightening Wire Spokes in, 450
Wheels, Model Gear, Gauge for Laying Out, 384
Whipping of Flag, Chain Weight Prevents, 409
Whirligig, Perpetual, 400
Whirling Fan, Hand-Operated, 398
Whirling Fan, Lighted, Used as Radiator Ornament, 260
Whistle, Hand-Operated Motorboat, 178
Whistle Warns of Fish Catch, 275
White Blotting Paper Improves Light Reflectors, 196
Wick, Feeding, Stove Lighter with, Guards Against Burns, 459
Wick, Lighting Candle Without Touching, 334
Wicks, Lamp, Cheaply Made, 236
Wind, Lighting a Match in, 382
Wind Motor, Sail Rigged, 172
Wind Wire on Electrical Apparatus, How to, 136
Winder, Egg Beater Made into for Model Aeroplanes, 459
Winding Coiled Springs, 134
Window-Advertising Novelty, Moth-Ball Puzzle as, 444
Window-Box Flowers, Watering, 144
Window Box, Hinged, 413
Window Closer, Automatic, 280
Window Display, Revolving, 229
Window Frame and Table for Dark Room, 320
Window Refrigerator, 323
Window, Rustic Trellis to Shade Door or, 175
Window Sash, Locking, 62
Window Ventilator, 312
Windows, Horizontal Sliding, Hinge Lock for, 372
Windows, To Stop Rattling of, 417
Wings, Covering Hinge, 276
Winter, Making Use of Refrigerator in, 344
Winter, Summer Radiator Cover Serves as Cupboard in, 297
Winter Use, Bee Feeder for, 192
Winter Use, Bicycle Runner for, 418
Wire Clips Weight Paper in Typewriter, 409
Wire Coat Hook, To Prevent from Turning, 235
Wire Compacts Bristles in Polish or Stencil Brushes, 439
Wire Holders Keep Cabinet Doors Open, 127
Wire, How to Wind on Electrical Apparatus, 136
Wire-Mesh Cage, Fisherman’s Pail with, 454
Wire Mesh, Preventing from Rising Between Fence Posts, 93
Wire-Mesh Support for Flower Centerpiece, 344
Wire Netting, Asbestos Table Mats Reinforced with, 421
Wire-Screen Pincushion, 456
Wire Spokes in Wheels, Handy Tool for Tightening, 450
Wire Trellis Fastened Neatly to Brick Walls, 8
Wire-Walking Toy, 180
Wireless Aerials, Lightning Switch for, 415
Wireless Detector, Simple, 456
Wiring, Bell-Circuit, Tinned Staples for, 420
Wishbone-Mast Ice Yacht, 17
Wood Alcohol, Economical Use of in Small Cooking Stove, 210
Wood Box with a Refuse-Catching Drawer, 144
Wood, Driving Thin Metal into, 247
Wood for Cabinetwork, Storage of, 389
Wood, Groove Cutter for, 45
Wood, Hard, Driving Screws in, 94
Wood, Mechanical Toy Alligator of, 460
Wood, Mechanical Toy Pigeon Made of, 433
Wood Rods, Turning Long, 349
Wood Turning on an Emery Grinder, 402
Wood-Wind Instruments, Repairing, 174
Wood, Working by Application of Heat, 150
Wooden Bullet, Toy Machine Gun Fires, 408
Wooden Disks, Cutting Thin, 16
Wooden Strips, Enameled Armchair Made of, 129
Woods, Birch-Bark Leggings Made of, 421
Woods, Cooking in the, 117
Woodsman’s Log Raft, 185
Woodwork, Gauge for, 252
Workbag in Top, Sewing Stand with, 293
Workbench, Home, Two Simple Vises for, 197
Workbench, Pencil Holder for, 236
Workbench, Placing Miter Box on, 294
Workbench, Wall, Old Table Used as, 440
Working Pile Driver, Small, 215
Working Wood by Application of Heat, 150
Workshop Seat, Combination, 370
Worn Talking-Machine Needles, Uses for, 329
Woven-Reed Footstool, 255
Woven Reed Furniture, 261, 269
Wrap Papers, Proper Way for Mailing, 44
Wrench, Fountain-Pen, 273
Wrist, Blotter Attached to Saves Time, 295
Writing and Drawing Pad, Cardboard, 130
Writing Desk, Combination Bookcase and, 316
Writing, Homemade Device Aids Blind Person, 438
Writing on a Moving Train, 228
Writing, Simple Machine for Transmitting, 442
X-Ray Lens, Feather as, 412
Yardstick on Tool Rack, 417
Transcriber’s Notes
The language used in this text is that of the sourcce document;
changes to the text are listed below.
Depending on the hard- and software and their settings used to read
this text not all elements may display as intended; many images may
be enlarged by opening them in a new window or tab.
Page 32, ... an angle of about 2°: possibly an error for ... an angle
of about 20°.
Page 262, ... in Fig. 9, illustrating an article on “Taborets and
Small Tables for the Summer Veranda,” page 155, July, 1916 ...: an
article with this title (presumably the one referred to) is present
in this book.
Changes made
Illustrations have been moved out of text paragraphs.
Minor obvious typographical errors have been corrected silently.
Some entries in the table of contents have been corrected to conform
to the spelling used in the text.
In some of the illustrations feet or misprinted inch symbols (′) have
been changed to inch symbols (″) when necessary.
Page 89: ... directly from the canoe, or part, to be fitted, whenever
convenient ... changed to ... directly from the canoe, or part to be
fitted, whenever convenient ....
Page 213: ... a wear and noise-proof bearing ... changed to ... a
wear- and noise-proof bearing ....
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