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Title: Through England on a side saddle
In the time of William and Mary
Author: Celia Fiennes
Contributor: Emily W. Griffiths
Release date: November 17, 2023 [eBook #72156]
Language: English
Original publication: London: Simpkin, Marshall & Co.; Hamilton, Adams & Co, 1888
Credits: Steve Mattern, Barry Abrahamsen, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was produced from images made available by the HathiTrust Digital Library.)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH ENGLAND ON A SIDE SADDLE ***
Through England
On a Side Saddle
IN THE TIME OF WILLIAM AND MARY
BEING THE DIARY OF
_CELIA FIENNES._
--------------
WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY
THE HON. MRS GRIFFITHS.
---------------------
_LONDON:
Field & Tuer, The Leadenhall Press, E.C.
Simpkin, Marshall & Co.; Hamilton, Adams & Co._
----------
_New York: Scribner & Welford, 743 & 745, Broadway._
--
1888
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration:
FIELD & TUER,
THE LEADENHALL PRESS, E.C.
(T. 4346)
]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
_THIS VOLUME_
IS
Dedicated
TO THE DEAR MEMORY OF
My Father,
13TH BARON SAYE AND SELE.
E. W. G.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
INTRODUCTION.
-------
THE account of the several journeys through England undertaken by my
kinswoman, Celia Fiennes, in the reign of William and Mary, may prove
interesting, as shewing the manners and customs of those times. The
writer’s diligent and attentive observation of details concerning the
various counties through which she passed, either on horseback or in her
equipage, and her descriptions of the many gentlemen’s seats visited by
her, seem worthy of notice and preservation. Numerous towns are
described, and a great many churches and country seats—some of which
doubtless no longer exist—are minutely detailed. There being little
literature of this kind and period in existence, Celia Fiennes’s diary
almost takes the position and value of an historical document. The
portion relating to London is interesting. The Lord Mayor’s Show and
other ceremonies are fully described. The perusal of these quaint and
straight-forward pages, in which there is little pretence to style,
gives a good idea of what England was two hundred years back. The only
actual date mentioned is 1695. The absence of roads strikes one, and
also the unimportance of what are now the great manufacturing districts
of the north. Bristol appears to have been the second city in the
kingdom. The fashionable baths and spas and style of bathing are
minutely described. With the exception of the dome, St Paul’s Cathedral
was finished, and Whitehall Palace had recently been burned—the
authoress suspects by Papist incendiaries.
The original MS., given to me by my father, has been copied verbatim, as
I believe any correction or alteration would spoil its quaint
originality. Celia Fiennes was daughter of Colonel Nathaniel Fiennes, a
Parliamentarian Officer, by his marriage with Miss Whitehead, and was
sister of the third Viscount Saye and Sele.
EMILY W. GRIFFITHS.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TO THE READER.
-------
AS this was never designed: soe not likely to fall into the hands of any
but my near relations, there needs not much to be said to Excuse or
recommend it. Something may be diverting and proffitable tho’ not to
Gentlemen that have travelled more about England, staid longer in
places, might have more acquaintance and more opportunity to be
inform’d. My Journeys as they were begun to regain my health by variety
and change of aire and exercise, soe whatever promoted that was pursued;
and those informations of things as could be obtein’d from jnns en
passant, or from some acquaintance, inhabitants of such places could
ffurnish me with for my diversion, I thought necessary to remark: that
as my bodily health was promoted my mind should not appear totally
unoccupied, and the collecting it together remain for my after
conversation (with such as might be inquisitive after such and such
places) to w^{ch} might have recourse; and as most I converse with knows
both the ffreedom and Easyness I speak and write as well as my deffect
in all, so they will not expect exactness or politeness in this book,
tho’ such Embellishments might have adorned the descriptions and suited
the nicer taste.
Now thus much without vanity may be asserted of the subject, that if all
persons, both Ladies, much more Gentlemen, would spend some of their
tyme in Journeys to visit their native Land, and be curious to Inform
themselves and make observations of the pleasant prospects, good
buildings, different produces and manufactures of each place, with the
variety of sports and recreations they are adapt to, would be a
souveraign remedy to cure or preserve ffrom these Epidemick diseases of
vapours, should I add Laziness?—it would also fform such an Idea of
England, add much to its Glory and Esteem in our minds and cure the evil
Itch of overvalueing fforeign parts; at least ffurnish them with an
Equivalent to entertain strangers when amongst us, Or jnform them when
abroad of their native Country, which has been often a Reproach to the
English, ignorance and being strangers to themselves. Nay the Ladies
might have matter not unworthy their observation, soe subject for
conversation, within their own compass in each county to which they
relate, and thence studdy now to be serviceable to their neighbours
especially the poor among whome they dwell, which would spare them the
uneasye thoughts how to pass away tedious dayes, and tyme would not be a
burthen when not at a card or dice table, and the ffashions and manners
of fforeign parts less minded or desired. But much more requisite is it
for Gentlemen in g^l service of their country at home or abroad, in town
or country, Especially those that serve in parliament to know and jnform
themselves y^e nature of Land, y^e Genius of the Inhabitants, so as to
promote and improve Manufacture and trade suitable to each and encourage
all projects tending thereto, putting in practice all Laws made for each
particular good, maintaining their priviledges, procuring more as
requisite; but to their shame it must be own’d many if not most are
Jgnorant of anything but the name of the place for which they serve in
parliament; how then can they speake for or promote their good or
Redress their Grievances? But now I may be justly blamed to pretend to
give acc: of our Constitution, Customs, Laws, Lect, matters farre above
my Reach or capacity, but herein I have described what have come within
my knowledge either by view and reading, or relation from others which
according to my conception have faithfully Rehearsed, but where I have
mistaken in any form or subject matter I easily submitt to a correction
and will enter such Erratas in a supplement annext to y^e Book of some
particulars since remark’d; and shall conclude with a hearty wish and
recommendation to all, but Especially my own Sex, the studdy of those
things which tends to Improve the mind and makes our Lives pleasant and
comfortable as well as proffitable in all the Stages and Stations of our
Lives, and render suffering and age supportable and Death less
fformidable and a future State more happy.
CELIA FIENNES.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE DIARY
OF
_CELIA FIENNES_
-------
_THE ACCOUNT OFF_
severall Journeys into severall parts of England with many Remarkes;
some w^{th} my mother from Newtontony Wiltshire which is all on the
downs a fine Champion Country pleasant for all sports, Rideing, Hunting,
Courseing, Setting and shooteing. From Newtontony I went to Sarum 8
miles which is a Citty and Bishop’s Seat, pretty Large town Streetes
broad but through y^e midst of them runs a little rivulet of water which
makes y^e Streetes not so clean or so easye to pass in, they have stepps
to Cross it and many open places for horses and Carriages to Cross
itt—itt takes off Much from the beauty of y^e streetes—the Cause of it
was from the burning of the old town called Salsebury which was on a
hill about a mile off this and it was so drye and farre from springs
that it was destroyed by fire and only the ruines of the Castle is to be
seen like a high wall with fortifications: this town now Stands low by
the water by a great River, the houses are old Mostly timber Buildings,
there is a large Market House with the town hall over it and a prison
Just by—there is also a large Cross in another place and house over it
for a Constant Market for fruite, fowle, Butter and Cheese and a fish
Market; the town is well served with all provissions; there is good
buildings in that part they call the Close, both New built and y^e old
good houses belonging to the doctors of the Church. Y^e Dean has a very
good house and Gardens, so is the Bishop’s Palace at y^e end of a Row of
trees—the roomes are lofty and Stately: all these houses are round y^e
Cathedrall which is esteemed the finest in England in all respects, it
only lyes low in a watry meadow so y^t the foundations is in the water,
made of ffaggots and timber, yet notwithstanding its want of a Riseing
ground to stand on y^e steeple is seen many miles off, the spire being
so high it appeares to us below as sharpe as a Dagger, Yet is in the
Compass on the top as bigg as a Cart wheele; its all stone and Carved
finely with spires and Arches, there are severall doores into y^e
Church, in the body of it stands the pulpet and seates on each side;
there are two large Isle’s runnes up on either side; the font stands
below opposite to the quire y^t enters w^{th} 2 or 3 steps assent from a
large Cross Isle that leades to the Cloysters, in which is y^e Chapter
house which is very large and supported only by one small stone Pillar
in y^e middle, painted round the walls with figures Carved y^e whole
accō: of the book of Genesis, the Windows are painted very finely—Much
of the History of the Bible. There is as many little Chappels in the
Church as months in a yeare, as many doores as weekes, as many Marble
pillars as dayes, as many windows as houres, as many partitions in the
windows as minutes in the year. The roofe of the Church is very lofty
and exactly neate in all things though not so large as some other
Cathedralls—the top of the Qoire is exactly painted and it lookes as
fresh as if but new done though of 300 yeares standing—there is a very
good organ and a deske for the reader raised so high even with the organ
for y^e advantage of the voice to be heard, yet y^e Church is so lofty
y^t y^e Eccos drowns y^e Intelligableness of the voice. The Comunion
table, hangings and y^e booses are all of crimson velvet with gold
fringe, 2 large Candlestickes gilt w^{th} great white tapers in them, a
large gilt bason to receive y^e offerings in—there is many good
monuments there, also there are ye Statues of the 3 bishops that built
the Church cut in stone—there are two large fine monuments above y^e
Rest—one all free stone for the lord George, his Effiges and ladyes att
length on a bed in their Robes and ruffs on pillows, and y^e four
pillars are twisted, and over it Angels, figures of birds, beasts,
flowers and leaves very fine, there sits Justice w^{th} y^e ballance in
her hand, one scale laying over y^e other twisted lookes very natural
and well, with y^e wreathed work all in free stone with their Armes cut
about in Escutheons all about it; the other is a monument for the Duke
of Summerset all in marble, a large bed his Effigee in garment and ruff
all in Coullours, his lady the same only she is laid one step above him
because she was Daughter to the Dowager of ffrance and sister to Henry
y^e 7^{th} of England by her second husband Charles brandon Duke of
Suffolk.
There is y^e Effiges of their 2 sonnes, Lord Beachom at their head and
Lord Seymour at y^e feete in Armour on their Knees, and severall
Daughters on their knees at y^e bottom and 12 pillars of Irish gray
marble. The Armes is cutt finely in Escutcheons &c. and in figures with
y^e supporters and severall sorts of beasts carved in a piramide
fashion, and on y^e top the Duke’s Corronet—these 2 monum^{ts} are
railed in with Iron grates, there is the Effigee in stone off a doctor
that starved himself to death attempting to imitate our Saviour to fast
40 dayes—but at 31 dayes end he became sensible of his evil and would
have retrieved his life by eateing againe, but then by y^e Just judgment
of god could not swallow any thing down his throate;—there is a chaple
or burying place of Judge poppums that had two very wild sonnes and by 2
pictures of his sonnes, pictured one with death y^e other with a
skeleton and set in y^e room they were to come into by their father’s
order, it pleased God to bless as a meanes to reclaim them. Ye pictures
are still there; the windows of the Church but especially y^e Quire are
very finely painted and large of y^e history of y^e bible—the tower ffor
y^e bells are in y^e yard at some distance from the Church—there are 6
Churches in the town and subburbs and y^e County Goal at y^e end of the
town called ffisherton, just by the great river that runnes to
Christ-Church in Salsebury. They keep the quarter session once in y^e
yeare the oth^r tymes are kept at Malbrough about 24 mile off and at y^e
Devises about y^e same distance w^{ch} is a very neate little town with
a very good market house and town hall sett on stone pillars; it is a
bourrough and a very rich tradeing place ffor the Clothing trade, the
fourth place y^e session is kept is Warminster about y^e same
distance—its a pretty little town a good Market for corn and there is
the Mindiffe Coale which is allmost as good as the sea Coale from
New-Castle that is dugg out of the hills all about;—But y^e Assizes is
allwayes kept at Salsebury and is a Major town though Wilton about 2
mile off is y^e County town and y^e Knights of y^e shire are chosen
there, though its now but as a little village as it were, and only
supported by the Earle of Pembrooke which lives there and has a very
ffine house with large Courts one within another. At y^e Entrance there
is a lofty Hall with good Pictures, 3 or 4 dineing roomes and drawing
roomes of State with very good bed Chambers and well furnished velvet
damaske and tissue, one Gallery and y^e dineing roome was all wanscoated
with pictures of y^e family—there is a drawing roome and Anti roome, y^e
wanscoate is painted with y^e whole History of the Acadia romance made
by S^r Philip Sidney, brother to the then Countess of Pembrooke and
Composed by him in y^e ffine woods above y^e house.
Another room is painted w^{th} all sorts of sports, Hunting, Hawking
&c.—they are all finely painted on the Ceiling and very lofty. there is
one dineing roome y^t the Chimney is just under a window and the
Tunnells runnes upon each side. there is one Chamber, the chimney stands
Just by the window opposite to Salsebury, and on the black Marble
Chimney piece soe finely polished you may see all the Cathedrall as in a
Glass; I have seen it plaine. There are very fine Marble Chimney pieces
in most of y^e roomes, and marble windows. The Gardens are very fine
with many gravel walkes with grass squaires set with fine brass and
stone statues—fish ponds and basons with ffigures in y^e middle spouting
out water—dwarfe trees of all sorts and a fine flower garden—much wall
fruite. Y^e river runns through y^e garden that easeily conveys by pipes
water to all Parts.
A Grottoe is att y^e end of the garden just y^e middle off y^e house—its
garnished with many fine ffigures of y^e Goddesses, and about 2 yards
off the doore is severall pipes in a line that with a sluce spoutts
water up to wett the strangers—in the middle roome is a round table and
a large Pipe in the midst, on which they put a Crown or Gun or a branch,
and so y^t spouts the water through y^e Carvings and poynts all round
y^e roome at y^e Artists pleasure to wet y^e Company—there are figures
at Each corner of y^e roome that Can weep water on the beholders and by
a straight pipe on y^e table they force up y^e water into y^e hollow
carving of y^e rooff like a Crown or Coronet to appearance but is hollow
within to retaine y^e water fforced into it in great quantetyes y^t
disperses in y^e hollow Cavity over y^e roome and descends in a Shower
of raine all about y^e roome—on each side is two little roomes which by
the turning their wires y^e water runnes in y^e rockes—you see and hear
it and also it is so contrived in one room y^t it makes y^e melody of
Nightingerlls and all sorts of birds w^{ch} engages y^e Curiosity of y^e
Strangers to go in to see, but at y^e Entrance off each room is a line
of pipes that appear not till by a Sluce moved—it washes y^e spectators
designed for diversion.
Y^e Grottoe is leaded on y^e top where are fish ponds, and just without
y^e grottoe is a wooden bridge over y^e river. Y^e barristers are set
out w^{th} Lyons set thick on Either Side w^{th} their mouths open, and
by a sluce spout out water each to other in a perfect arch y^e length of
y^e bridge. There are fine woods beyond y^e house and a large parke
walled in. From thence I went to Blandford in Dorsetshire 18 miles
through a haire waring and a forest of y^e Kings.
Blandford is a pretty neate Country town. Thence to Merly by Wimborn
over a great river Called the Stoure and a large Arched bridge to a
Relations house, S^r William Constantines house—thence to Poole a little
seaport town 4 miles off where was a very good Minister in y^e publick
Church—M^r Hardy.
From thence we went by boate to a little Isle Called brownsea 3 or 4
leagues off where there is much Copperice made, the stones being found
about y^e Isle in y^e shore in great quantetyes. there is only one house
there w^{ch} is the Governours, besides little fishermen’s houses; they
being all taken up about y^e Copperice workes; they gather y^e Stones
and place them on ground raised like y^e beds in gardens, rows one above
the other and are all Shelving, so y^t y^e raine disolves y^e Stones and
it draines down into trenches and pipes made to receive and Convey it to
y^e house, y^{ch} is fitted with Iron panns four square and of a pretty
depth at least 12 yards over. They place Iron spikes in y^e panns full
of branches and so as y^e Liquor boyles to a candy it hangs on those
branches; I saw some taken up—it look’d like a vast bunch of grapes. Y^e
Coullour of y^e Copperace not being much differing it lookes cleare like
Suger-Candy—so when y^e water is boyled to a Candy they take it out and
replenish the panns with more liquor. I do not remember they added
anything to it only y^e Stones of Copperice disolved by y^e raine into
liquor as I mention’d at first—there are great furnaces under, y^t
Keepes all the panns boyling—it was a large room or building with
Severall of these large panns: they do add old Iron and nailes to y^e
Copperass Stones. This is a noted place for lobsters and Crabs and
shrimps. I there eate some very good. From Merly we went to y^e Isle of
Purbeck. At Warrum we passed over a bridge where y^e sea flowed in, and
Came by y^e ruines of Corffe Castle which stands on a hill, yet
surrounded by much higher hills y^t might easily command it, and so in
y^e Civil warrs was batter’d down with Granadeers—thence you rise a
great ascent of hills, called the Linch or rather y^e ridge, being so
for 3 or 4 miles, rideing to Quare, which was 16 miles ffrom Merly to a
relations house—Cos’n Colliers.
From this ridge you see all y^e Island over, which lookes very
fruitfull, good lands, Meadows, woods and jnclosures—there are many
quarys in these hills of y^t w^{ch} is called the free stone from hence
they digg it—the shores are very Rocky all about y^e Island. We went 3
miles off to Sonidge a sea faire place not very big—there is a flatt
sand by y^e sea a little way: they take up stones by y^e shores y^t are
so oyly, as y^e poor burn it for ffire, and its so light a ffire it
Serves for Candle too, but it has a strong offensive smell. At a place 4
mile off called Sea Cume the Rockes are so Craggy and y^e Creekes of
land so many y^t y^e sea is very turbulent—I pick’d shells and it being
a spring tide I saw y^e sea beat upon y^e Rockes at least 20 yards with
Such a ffoame or ffroth—and at another place the rockes had so large a
Cavity and Hollow y^t when y^e Sea flowed in, it runne almost round and
Sounded like some hall or high arch. In this Island are severall pretty
good houses though not very large. Att Kingston, S^r William Muese has a
pretty house, and att Income M^r Coliffords—Doonshay, M^r Dollings and 7
mile off Quare. Att Finnum, lady Larences, there is a pretty large house
but very old timber built: there I eate y^e best Lobsters and Crabs,
being boyled in y^e Sea water and scarce Cold—very large and Sweet. Most
of the houses in y^e Island are built of stone—this is Just by the great
Cliffts w^{ch} are a vast height from y^e sea—here is plenty of
provision of all sorts especially of fish. ffrom Finnum we ascend a high
hill of a great length till you are out of y^e Island which does hardly
appeare to be now an Isle, the tide having left it on this side that you
passe only a little Brooke. There is another Castle called Brindon, but
y^t lyes low and appears not much—thence we came to Piddle 6 or 7 miles
off where was a relation—Mr Oxenbridg; an old house w^{ch} formerly was
an abby—thence to Dorchester town 5 miles—it stands on y^e side of a
Hill the river runnes below it—the town lookes Compact and the streetes
are very neately pitch’d and of a good breadth—The Market-place is
spaceious—The Church very handsome and full of galleries.
Thence we went to Burport about 8 miles—The wayes are stony and very
narrow—the town has a steep hill to descend through the whole
place—thence to Woolfe 4 miles to a relation—Mr Newbery a man of many
whymseys—would keep no women servants—had all washing, Ironing dairy
and all performed by men—his house look’s like a little village when
you Come into y^e Yard—so many little buildings apart from each
other—one for a stillitory—another for out houses and offices, another
long building for Silk wormes, and y^e dwelling house is but mean and
spoyl’d by his ffancy of makeing a hall up 3 storyes high and so lofty
nothing suiteable to it. He had good gardens and orchards much good
ffruite, but all in a most rude Confused manner. Thence we went to
Colway neare Lime in Somersetshire about 8 miles to a relations house
Mr Hendly’s—from thence it is 2 miles to Lime a seaport place open to
the main ocean, and so high and bleake Sea, that to secure the Harbour
for shipps they have been at a great Charge to build a Mold from the
town with stone like a halfe Moon, w^{ch} they call the Cobb; its
raised with a high wall and this runns into y^e Sea a good Compass
that y^e Shipps rides safely within it, when the tide is out we may
see the foundations of some part of it—that is the tyme they looke
over it to see any breach and repaire it immediately, else y^e tide
come with so much violence would soone beate it down—there is some
part of it low and only is to joyne y^e rest to the land, and at high
water is all Cover’d of such a depth of water that shipps may pass
over it to enter the Cobb or halfe moone, which is difficult for
fforeigners to attempt, being ignorant, though its better than goeing
round the other way for those that know and do observe the tide—the
spring tides and any Storme does some tymes beate up and wash over the
walls of the forte or castle into the Court and so runns into the
town, though at other tymes when its’ the ordinary tide and calme sea
it is at least 300 yards from the banke on which the high wall is
built—In most parts of somersetshire it is very fruitfull for
Orchards, plenty of apples and peares, but they are not Curious in the
Planting the best sort of fruite which is a great pitty, being so
soone produced and such quantetyes, they are likewise as Careless when
they make Cider—they press all sorts of Apples together, else they
might have as good sider as in any other parts, even as good as the
Herrifordshire—they make great quantetyes of Cider, their presses are
very large, so as I have seen a Cheese as they call them which yeilded
2 hoddsheads—they pound their apples, then lay fresh straw on the
press, and on that a good lay off Pulp of the apples, then turne in
the ends of the straw over it all round and lay fresh straw, then more
apples up to the top. Just by Lime you Cross a little brooke into
Devonshire which is much like Somersetshire—fruitfull Country’s for
Corn, graseing, much for inclosures that makes the wayes very narrow,
so as in some places a Coach and Waggons Cannot pass—they are forced
to Carry their Corn and Carriages on horses’ backes with frames of
wood like pannyers on either side y^e horse, so load it high and tye
it w^{th} Cords—this they do altogether the farther Westward they goe
for y^e wayes grow narrower and narrower on to y^e lands end. They
shewed me the Lizard point from Lime, it was a good distance—Y^e land
grows narrower in a compass round, as it were round the sea. From lime
the wayes are also difficult by reason of the very steep hill up and
down, and that so successively as little or no plaine even ground, and
full of large smooth pebbles that make the strange horses slip and
uneasye to go—the horses of the Country are accustomed to it and
travell well in the rodes—in y^e opener wayes they use a sort of waine
or carriage made narrower than our Southern Waggon, but longer and so
load them high—from Lime to Burport is 12 miles and so to Dorchester;
thence to Blandford we pass over Woodbery hill eminent for a great
Faire that is kept there of all things: the road passed by
Cherbery—the foot of the hill on the Slope stands a pretty Seate of Mr
Earles my relation—the house is new built on y^e brow of y^e hill
whence you have large prospects of 20 mile round—you may see
Shaftesbury thence 16 mile off—there is a good wood behind the house,
good gardens wall’d with plenty of fruit, good fish and decoy pounds.
There is a very good Hall at the entrance leads you to a large parlour
and drawing room on y^e right hand that opens to the gardens—a very
good little parlour on the left with servants room, and another
parlour for smoakeing, all well wanscoated and painted and the offices
convenient—the Chambers are good and lofty and sizeable—good
ffurniture in the best 2 Chambers, in an angle the staires leads up
halfe way into y^e middle of the house and so divides in four parts
and runnes to each angle.
Thence 6 miles to Blandford, thence 18 to Salsebury and 8 mile to
Newtontony which stands in y^e midst of y^e downs 8 mile from Andover a
market town in Hampshire and y^e roade to London. It lyes 15 mile from
Winchester—it is three mile from Amesbury and 2 mile more to Stoneage
that stands on Salsebury plaine—eminent for many battles being faught
there—this Stoneage is reckon’d one of the wonders of England how such
prodigeous stone should be brought there, as no such Stone is seen in
y^e Country nearer than 20 mile. They are placed on the side of a hill
in a rude jregullar form—two stones stands up and one laid on their tops
with morteses into each other and thus are severall in a round like a
wall with spaces between, but some are fallen down, so spoyle the order
or breach in the temple, as some think it was in the heathen tymes;
others thinke it the Trophy of some victory wone by one Ambrosious, and
thence the town by it has its name of Amesbury. There is severall rows
of lesser stones within the others set up in the same forme of 2 upright
and one lies on the top like a gateway. How they were brought thither or
whether they are a made stone is not resolved—they are very hard yet I
have seen some of them scraped—the weather seemes not to penetrate them.
To increase the wonder of the story is that none Can Count them twice
alike—they stand confused and some single stones at a distance but I
have told them often, and bring their number to 91. This Country is most
Champion and open, pleasant for recreations—its husbandry is mostly Corn
and sheep, the Downs though short grass y^e feed is sweet, producing the
finest wooll and sweet meat though but small.
The little towns or villages lies in the valleys and runs along in the
bottom and are called Bourns having water running in most of them. From
Stonidge I went to Evell in Somersetshire, thence to Meer a little town
about 15 mile; by the town is a vast high hill called the Castle of
Meer—its now all grass over and so steepe up that the ascent is by
footsteps cut in the side of the hill. I was on the top where some had
been digging and was come to a space that was Arched and the walls
plaistred and washed white and smooth—it was but a little roome, I tooke
a piece of its walls and plaister. That shews there may be Cells or
vaults in the hill—from thence to Wincauton 7 miles which is on a steep
hill and very stoney—you go through the town all the way down as it were
a steep precipice, all Rocks—thence to Castle Cary 3 or 4 miles—its
generally a good fruitfull Country, much on jnclosures as is most of
Summersetshire.
Thence to Alford 2 miles where was a minerall water which Company
resorts to for drinking—formerly it has been more frequented than of
late—many now send for them severall miles and have Beer brewed of
them—there being no good accomodation for people of fashion, the Country
people being a Clownish rude people. Y^e waters are mostly from Alom—its
a Cleare little well and a quick spring—the bottom of the well has a
sort of Blewish Clay or Marle, its a quick purger, good for all sharpe
Humers or Obstruction. In three mile of this place is Queen Camell
famous for a fine ring of bells and for the fine sort of brown thread
called Nuns thread—as we returned from thence we came by Bruton a very
neate stone built town—from it we ascend a very high steep hill all in a
narrow Lane cut out of the rocks on which grow trees thick, their Roots
runns amongst the rocks, and in many places fine Clean springs buble
out, and run a long out of the rocks, it smells Just like the sea. we
were full an hour passing that hill though with four horses and a
Chariot. My sister self and Maid: thence to Willding which is a place of
much water, so to Newtontony in all 30 miles.
Another Journey to the Bath, from Newtontony to Warminster 18 miles a
good road town and good way; thence to Breackly 5 mile a Deep Clay way,
we passed over one Common of some miles Length on a narrow Causy that a
Coach can scarce pass, all pitched with slatts and stones—our Coach was
once wedged in y^e wheele in the stones that severall men were forced to
lift us out; its made only for Packhorses which is the way of Carriage
in those parts. Y^e Common is so Moorish their feete and wheeles would
sinke in, so no going there—thence to Philip Norton 3 miles a very neate
stone built village. Thence you pass a good way between 2 stone walls to
the bath, 5 mile down a very steep hill and stony, a mile from the town
scarce any passing and there descends a little Current of water
continually from the rocks. The wayes to the bath are all difficult, the
town lyes Low in a bottom and its steep ascents all wayes out of the
town. The houses are indifferent, the streetes of a good size well
pitched. There are severall good houses built for Lodgings that are new
and adorned, and good furniture, the baths in my opinion makes the town
unpleasant, the aire so low, encompassed with high hills and woods.
There is 5 baths the hot bath the most hot springs—its but small and
built all round, which makes it y^e hotter—out of it runns the water
into a bath called the Le pours.
The third bath is called the Cross bath w^{ch} is some thing bigger then
the former and not so hot; the Cross in the middle has seates round it
for y^e Gentlemen to sitt, and round the walls are Arches w^{th} seates
for the Ladyes, all stone and the seate is stone and if you thinke the
seate is too Low they raise it with a Coushon as they call it, another
Stone, but indeed the water bears you up that y^e seate seemes as easy
as a down Coushon. Before the Arch the Ladyes use to have a laced toilet
hung up on the top of the Arch and so to shelter their heads even to the
water if they please. You Generally sit up to the Neck in water, this
Cross bath is much the Coolest and is used mostly in y^e heate of
summer; there are Gallery’s round y^e top that y^e Company that does not
Bathe that day walkes in and lookes over into y^e bath on their
acquaintance and company—there are such a number of Guides to each bath
of women to waite on y^e ladyes, and of men to waite on the Gentlemen,
and they keepe their due distance. There is a serjeant belonging to y^e
baths that all the bathing tyme walkes in galleryes and takes notice
order is observed and punishes y^e rude, and most people of fashion
sends to him when they begin to bathe, then he takes particular Care of
them and Complements you every morning w^{ch} deserves its reward at y^e
end of the Season. When you would walk about y^e bath I use to have a
woman guide or two to Lead me for the water is so strong it will quickly
tumble you down, and then you have 2 of the men guides goes at a
distance about y^e bath to Cleare y^e way. At y^e sides of the Arches
are rings that you may hold by and so walke a little way, but y^e
springs bubbles up so fast and so strong and are so hot up against ye
bottoms of ones feete, Especially in that they Call y^e Kitching in the
bath, which is a great Cross with seates in y^e middle and many hot
springs riseth there. The Kings bath is very large, as large as the rest
put together, in it is the hot pumpe that persons are pumpt at for
Lameness or on their heads for palsyes. I saw one pumpt, they put on a
broad brim’d hatt w^{th} the Crown Cut out so as y^e brims Cast off y^e
water from y^e face; they are pumpt in y^e bath, one of y^e men Guides
pumps—they have two pence I thinke for 100 pumps. The water is scallding
hot out of the pump, the armes or Legs are more easyly pumped. The
Ladyes goes into the bath with Garments made of a fine yellow canvas,
which is stiff and made large with great sleeves like a parsons gown;
the water fills it up so that its borne off that your shape is not seen,
it does not cling close as other linning, which Lookes sadly in the
poorer sort that go in their own linning. The Gentlemen have drawers and
wastcoates of the same sort of canvas, this is the best linning, for the
bath water will Change any other yellow. When you go out of the bath you
go within a doore that leads to Steps which you ascend by degrees that
are in the water, then the doore is shut which shutts down into the
water a good way, so you are in a private place where you still ascend
severall more steps and let your Canvass drop of by degrees into the
water, which your women guides take off, and the meane tyme your maides
flings a garment of flannell made like a Nightgown w^{th} great sleeves
over your head, and y^e guides take y^e taile and so pulls it on you
Just as you rise y^e steps, and y^e other garment drops off so you are
wrapped up in y^e flannell and your nightgown on y^e top, and your
slippers and so you are set in Chaire which is brought into y^e roome
w^{ch} are called slips, and there are Chimney’s in them, you may have
fires. These are in severall parts of the sides of y^e bath for y^e
Conveniency of persons going in and out of y^e bath decently, and at y^e
top of y^e staires stands a woman y^t Layes a woollen Cloth for you to
set your bare foot, and also to give you attendance. Y^e Chaires you go
in are a low seate and w^{th} frames round and over y^r head and all
cover’d inside and out w^{th} red bayes and a Curtaine drawn before of
y^e same w^{ch} makes it Close and warme; then a Couple of men w^{th}
staves takes and Carryes you to your lodging and sets you at y^r bedside
where you go to bed and lye and sweate some tyme as you please. Y^r own
maides and y^e maides of the house gets your fire and waites on you till
you rise to get out of your sweate. All the baths has the same
attendance, the queens bath is bigger then y^e other three but not and
neare so big as y^e Kings, which do run into each other and is only
parted by a wall and at one place a great arch where they run into each
other. Y^e queens bath is a degree hotter than y^e Cross bath and y^e
Kings bath much hotter, these have all gallery’s round and the pump is
in one of these galleryes at y^e Kings bath which y^e Company drinks of,
its very hot and tastes like y^e water y^t boyles Eggs, has such a
smell, but y^e nearer y^e pumpe you drinke it, y^e hotter and less
offencive and more spiriteous. The baths are all Emptyed as soone as the
Company goes out, which is about 10 or 11 of y^e Clock in the morning;
then by sluces they empty at once y^e bath so it fills againe. I have
seen all y^e springs bubble up as thicke out of y^e ground when the
baths have been empty. Y^e bottom is gravell. So they will be full for
y^e evening if Company would go in againe, if so they empty them againe
at Night and they are filled against y^e morning and there will be such
a white scum on the bath w^{ch} y^e guides goes and scimms off Cleane
before any Company goes in; if they go in while this scum is on it gives
them the bath mantle as they call it, makes them breake out into heate
and pimples; y^e like will be on them if they go into y^e bath before
they have purged, especially in y^e hotter bath. Y^e places for
divertion about y^e bath is either y^e walkes in that they call y^e
Kings Mead which is a pleasant green meaddow, where are walkes round and
Cross it, no place for Coaches, and indeed there is little use of a
Coach only to bring and Carry y^e Company from y^e bath for y^e wayes
are not proper for Coaches.
Y^e town and all its accomodations is adapted to y^e batheing and
drinking of the waters and to nothing else, the streetes are well
pitched and Cleane kept and there are Chaires as in London to Carry y^e
better sort of people in visits, or if sick or infirme and is only in
the town, for its so Encompassed with high hills few care to take the
aire on them. There is also pleasant walkes in y^e Cathedrall in the
Cloysters and y^t leades to y^e discription of the Coronation in this
place at y^e bath y^e 23^d April w^{ch} I recieved y^e relation off from
a spectatrix it being y^e day queen ann was Crowned, and is never
performed unless when a queen is the Chiefe as Queen Elizabeth &c., her
Sister our late Majesty’s King William and Queen Mary because the queen
was Joyn’d in the throne as principle, they representing y^e Amazons
consisting of the young Maids. The Companyes of the town being assembled
at M^r Mayors house begin to proceed with their officers masters and
wardens and each Company with their flag—After marched in a troupe y^e
Maides of the suburbs each with their proper officers of themselves, as
Capt^n Ensigne and lieutenant w^{th} plummes of feathers. Just before
y^e capt^n went her guard which was 6 young men drest in their holland
shirts, with garters, and Ribons in their hatts, and their swords drawn
in their hands, then the capt^n in her short wastecoate with gold lace,
and their peticoates silke y^t were with furbellows ode above anoth^{er}
with Ribons, w^{th} a trunchant in their hand w^{th} an inscription, God
save queen Ann. Just behinde their Captaines went two Maides with two
scepters gilt, next them two more y^t bore the crown between them w^{ch}
was gilt, also their Ensigne. Their flag w^{ch} holds the same
inscription God save queen Ann was guarded by two young Men drest as y^e
others in their holland shirts: then the troupe followed in order in
same dress as their officers with Crowns on their heads of Guilded
Lauwrell, in Number about 100; next came y^e Citty Maides w^{th} their
Majoress Generall with their plummes of feather with a wreath of Gilded
Lawrell like a Crown, and on y^e top w^{th} all sorts of pretious stones
y^e Jewellers shops Could supply them w^{th} and were guarded w^{th}
young men as y^e others; behind y^e Majoress followed six all in white
with a green Cross swathe with this inscription in white God save queen
Ann each with their Trunchant in their hands as y^e former, and two
carrying 2 scepters gilt, and after them two more y^e Crown between
them, w^{ch} was very rich in pearles; then two more carryed y^e queens
Armes between them, their dress was just as y^e first were only much
richer and finer and all of them gather’d up y^e upper peticoate in
little scallops just to shew their under peticoates w^{ch} were white.
Y^e troupe of y^e amazans in order w^{th} their bows and arrows w^{th}
Crowns of Gilded Lawrel, their officers had plumes of feathers and their
Serjeants with their halberts, their number was also about 100.
Next after followed all y^e young men of y^e town form’d into a Company
of Granadeers w^{th} their proper officers w^{ch} had laced hatts and
plumes of feathers; each soldier had a red cap w^{th} Cyphers and a
Crown gilt w^{th} gold and furbelowed with blew round their head; their
hair was tyed back with scarlet ribon, they had scarlet garters and
scarlet slings for their gunns; drest all in their holland shirts and
white stockings and had a hanger by their sides. their number was about
30. Next followed four couple of Maurice dancers with their pranceing
horses, in holland shirts with laced hatt riboned, and Cross swashes and
garters w^{th} bells, w^{th} their two antiques drest in their
formalityes, w^{th} hankershiefs in their hands danceing all y^e way.
Next walked y^e Clergy, then next followed M^r Major with two pages
attending him, followed by the Corporation aldermen all in their scarlet
gowns, and the common Councill in their gowns. Next followed in y^e
reare all y^e marryed men formed into a Company of Artilery, their hatts
Laced, with plumes of feathers all in their own Cloths:
Ye Soldiers y^e Same w^{th} Swords and gunns w^{th} two Blunderbusses;
every Company both of men and women was attended by drums and all sort
of musick both wind and stringed instruments.
Thus they repaired to y^e Cathedrall, Y^e granadeers salutes them Just
as they enter the Abby with a volly of shott, and there they have a
sermon and as they come out of the Cathedrall y^e Company of artillery
salutes them againe with another volly, so in the same order they return
to their Guild Hall where is a sumptuous feast w^{th} Musick and
danceing w^{ch} Ends y^e solemnity w^{th} bonfires as is usual.
I now proceed to describe the rest of the town. there are green walkes
very pleasant and in many places, and out of the Cathedrall you walk
into y^e priory which has good walkes of rows of trees, which is
pleasant—there are y^e deans prebends and doctors houses which stand in
y^t green which is pleasant, by y^e Church called the Abby, w^{ch} is
lofty and spacious and much Company walke there especially in wet
weather. Y^e Quire is neat but nothing extraordinary—in that Kings mead
there are severall little Cake-houses where you have fruit lulibubs and
sumes Liquours to entertaine y^e Company that walke there.
The markets are very good here of all sorts of provision flesh and ffish
especially when the season for y^e Company batheing and drinking lasts,
great plenty and pretty reasonable. The Chargeableness of the bath is
y^e Lodgings and fireing, the ffaggotts being very small, but they give
you very good attendance there.
Another Journey I went with my mother into Oxfordshire, by Barkshire to
Hungerford 16 mile, which is famous for Crawfish there being a good
river and great quantityes of y^t fish and large.
This is in Barkshire, thence to Lamborn w^{ch} is a woody Country 7
miles, thence to ffarington 7 mile a pretty large place but lyes very
watry, and so by Radcote 5 miles, w^{ch} is much y^e same deep Countryes
much on Clay; by ffarington is a fine house of S^r George Pratt’s Called
Coalsell. All y^e avenues to y^e house are fine walkes of rows of trees,
y^e garden lyes in a great descent below y^e house of many steps and
terresses and walkes one below another, a green walke with all sorts of
Dwarfe trees, fruit trees with standing apricot and flower trees,
abundance of garden roome and filled with all sorts of things improved
for pleasure and use. The house is new built with stone, most of y^e
offices are partly under ground—Kitchin, Pantry, buttlery and good
Cellers and round a Court is all y^e other offices and out houses; this
is all even with y^e back yards. The Entrance of y^e house is an ascent
of severall steps into a hall so lofty the rooff is three storyes,
reaches to y^e floore of y^e gallery—all the walls are Cutt in hollows
where statues and Heads Carved ffinely are sett, Directly fore-right
Enters a large Dineing roome or great parlour, which has a door
thourough into the garden y^t gives a visto through y^e house: within
y^t is a drawing room, on y^e other side another roome of the same size,
and backward is a little parlour all with good ffurniture, tapistry,
Damaske, &c. There runs up a p^r of back Staires at each end of the
house quite to y^e top to the gallery which does make convenient all y^e
Chambers. The great Staires goes out of the hall on each side, spacious
and handsom staires runs up and meetes on the landing place, w^{ch} is a
passage that runs on both sides to each end of the house, but is made
private by two doores on each side: on the top of the staires you enter
in y^e midle into a dineing roome, within that a Chamber on each side
with two Closets to each bigg Enough for a little bed, with Chimney’s
convenient for a servant and for dressing roomes, one of which has a
doore also out into that passage and soe to the back staires; this is
y^e same on y^e other end, and also two roomes on y^e other side, each
end of y^e hall which continues to run up even with the second story,
which are all good Chambers, and one more here because the great staires
goe but to y^e first story: they are all well and Genteel’ly furnisht,
damaskes Chamlet and wrought beds ffashionably made up. Over this runs a
gallery all through the house, and on each side severall garret roomes
for servants ffurnished very neate and Genteele, in y^e middle are
staires y^t Lead up to the Cupilow or large Lanthorn in the middle of
the leads. Y^e house being Leaded all over and the stone Chimney’s in
severall rows Comes up in them on each side y^e Cupilow, it shewes exact
and very uniform, as is y^e whole Building. This gives you a great
prospect of gardens, grounds and woods that appertaine to y^e Seate, as
well as a sight of the Country at a distance. There was few pictures in
the house only over doores and Chimney’s; the hall was paved with black
and whyte marble and had seates round the roome cut in arches on the
walls. From thence Oxfordshire we enter over the Vale of the White horse
w^{ch} takes its name from a Ridge of high hills on which is Cutt out
the shape off a horse in perfect proportions in broad wayes, and is seen
a great distance very plaine, the hills being on Chalke look’s white and
the great valley in the bottom is term’d the Manger; it extends a vast
way, a rich jnclosed Country, and we pass through some part of
Glocestershire at Norton where is another seat of my Brother
Say’s—thence to Broughton by Banbery which is 25 mile.
Broughton is an ancient Seate of y^e Lord viscount Say and Seale; its an
old house moted round, and a parke and Gardens, but are much left to
decay and ruine when my brother Came to it. He has two other houses in
two or three Miles, Shettford a little neate house and gardens, and
Newton, but that is mostly pulled down. From Broughton I went to see
Edgehill where was the ffamous Battle ffought in Cromwell’s tyme—its 10
mile off, the Ridge of hills runns a great length and so high that the
land beneath it appeares vastly distant, its a rich ground full of
inclosures and lookes finely, tho’ fformidable to look down on it and
turnes one’s head round—the wind allwayes blows w^{th} great violence
there because of the Steepeness of y^e hills. The top is a flatt full of
Barrows and hills that are markes of a Camp and battles.
About 2 mile from Broughton is a great old house much like Broughton;
its S^r Robert Dashwoods—most of the great houses there about are old
built. About three mile off at Adderbery w^{ch} is a pretty neate
vilage, there are two or three good houses one of S^r Thomas Cobbs and
Lady Rochesters looks neate and well with good gardens.
There is about 2 mile off the Lord Guilffords house Roxton which is a
good house within a parke. You enter a large hall, on the left hand
leads to a little parlour down to y^e Kitchins, the halfe pace att the
upper end of the hall leads into dineing roome, drawing roome, and a
large staire-case with good pictures; there you enter another large
dineing roome with great Compass windows and fine Pictures of the
family. Within is a drawing roome and Chambers and Closets well
proportioned, little or no ffurniture was up, only in y^e worst roomes;
in one Closet att each doore was Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth’s
pictures to the ffoote in bibb and apron very pretty: in one roome was
the Lord North and Ladyes picture, which was Lord Chiefe Justice and
their sonnes picture in the middle, all at length,—many good Pictures in
most roomes. There was a part new built all the new ffashion way which
was designed for the present Lord Gilford and Lady. The Gardens are very
good, the outhouses and Stables handsome.
Banbury is a pretty little town, the streets broad and well pitched, the
whole Country is very pleasant and the land rich—a red earth. They make
some of their fences with stones—dry walls without Morter. It seemes
much on a flatt and you have a large prospect, from thence to London we
go by Alesbury 20 mile, thence to London 30 mile.
A journey my mother went from Newtontony to Durly in the fforest 15
miles, thence to Nurstead 15 mile to a Relations house, (Aunt Holts,) a
neate new built house with brick and stone—a hall, little parlour on y^e
left side, a back door into a Court built round with all the offices out
to y^e stables and barnes: on the right side a great parlour and drawing
roome y^t opened into the garden w^{ch} were fine gravel walks, grass
plotts and beyond it a garden of flower trees and all sorts of Herbage,
store of fruit, and freestone broad walke in y^e Middle to y^e house.
Y^e Chambers are very good and Convenient and in y^e ffront is a place
walled in, beyond is a long ground sett with rows of trees; on y^e right
side of y^e house is a large grove of firrs halfe scotts halfe norroway
which lookes very nobly. The roades all about this Country are very
stony, narrow and steep hills or else very dirty as in most of Sussex,
but good rich land; it is in 2 mile of petersffield in Hampshire w^{ch}
is a good little neate town. In a mile of it is a Gentlemans house
Called Maple Duram which Might now be new named into yew, ffor the great
number of yew trees set thick in severall green walkes that grows high
and is cutt close to the body up almost to the top, and y^e tops are
left in a great head that spreads and makes it very shady and pleasant.
From thence we went to Guilford w^{ch} is a good town built with stone.
The streetes are broad—thence to Kingston on the Thames 30 mile thence
to London 10 mile, from London againe to Colebrooke 15 miles, thence to
Maidenhead 10. You go in sight of Winsor Castle on the left hand and
Eaton Colledge as you pass the bridge at Maidenhead, and on y^e right
hand you see Cliffton house a fine Building of y^e Duke of Buckingams.
Thence to Redding 5 miles w^{ch} is a pretty large place, severall
Churches, in one lyes buried one of my sisters that Dyed at my
Grandmothers there of the small pox, her monument of white marble stands
up in the Chancell. From Redding to the Veale 5 miles, Sad Clay Deep way
this is in Barkshire, thence to Newbery 8 mile all Clay Mirey ground.
Newbery is a little town famous for makeing the best whipps—its a good
market for Corn and trade. Thence to Newtontony over Way hill famous for
a Faire kept there on Michelmas day.
My journey to London after my Mothers death was by Sutton 14 mile thence
to Baseing stoke 12 mile, a large town for to Entertaine travellers and
commodious, 2 mile beyond we pass by Basen on the left side, a house of
the Duke of Boltons w^{th} a large parke and gardens. Y^e house is not
fine being much demolished and spoyled after the Civil warres, it being
a garrison held by y^e King. On the right hand at a mile distance you
come in sight also of a great building like a little town—the house of
S^r Robert Hendlys; so to Hartffordbridge is 8 mile more thats only a
place full of jnns for the conveniency of the road. Thence over a heath
you go to Bagshott that is 8 mile all on a heavy sand where you come by
a parke of y^e kings, and in it is a pretty house—thence to Eggum 8 mile
very heavy sand, so to Staines where you cross the Thames on a bridge to
Midlsex and so to Houndslow 4 mile, to Brandford 4 mile, to Turnumgreen
2, thence to Hammersmith 2 to Kensington 2 and London 2 miles.
Another journey ffrom London to Alsebury 30 mile, from thence to great
Horrwood in Buckinghamshire 10 miles, from thence I went to Hillsdon a
house of Mr Dentons 7 miles which stands on a Riseing in the middle of a
fine Parke and lookes very well; its not large, a good hall w^{th} 2
parlours and has a glide through the house into the gardens w^{ch} are
neately kept—the grass and Gravel walkes w^{th} dwarfs and flower beds
and much fruit; the prospect is fine all over the gardens and parke, and
the river and woods beyond them. We went to Thorndon S^r Thomas
Tyrrells, a good old house and very good gardens, some walkes like
Arbours Close, others shady others open, some gravel, others grass with
Cyprus’ trees, a fine river runnes all the back side of the garden,
where is very good ffish. The house is low but runnes much on the
ground, so there are many roomes w^{ch} are lofty but its not built in
many storyes. Thence we went 4 mile to Stow S^r Rich^d Temples new house
that stands pretty high. You enter into a hall very lofty with a gallery
round the top, thence through to a great parlour that opens in a
Bellcony to the garden, and is a visto thro’ the whole house, so that on
the one side you view the gardens w^{ch} are one below another w^{th}
low breast walls and Taress walkes, and is replenished with all y^e
Curiosityes or Requisites for ornament, pleasure and use, beyond it are
orchards and woods with rows of trees; on the other side you see y^e
parke rowes of trees; the roomes are all lofty and good, the hall is not
large but sutable to its height—a great many Chambers and roomes of
state. Some the ground floores are inlaid, ffine Pictures and good
staircase and gallery w^{ch} leads to the Ledds through a large Cupelow
w^{ch} gives y^e prospect of the whole Country. We went to horrwood 7
mile, by severall other seates of S^r Ralph Verny’s who has most exact
ffine gardens: within two mile off Horrwood is a well of minerall waters
from Iron just like Tunbridg and as good. I dranke them a
fortnight—there are severall of the same sort of springs all about that
Country. Thence I went to Buckinghamtown 7 mile, a very neate place and
we passed the river Ouise over a very high bridge tho’ the river seemed
not then so very full, but it swells after great raines which makes them
build their arches so large. Thence to Banbury in Oxfordshire 13 miles,
thence to morton Hindmost in Glocestershire 14 miles, thence to Hales 8
miles over steep stony hills, a house of Lord Tracy’s where my brother
Say lived—a good old house, and there is a pretty Chappel with a Gallery
ffor people of quality to sitt in w^{ch} goes out of the hall that is a
lofty large roome: good parlour and severall good lodging roomes. You
ascend into the house by Severall stone stepps. Within 2 mile of this is
a better house of y^e Lord Tracy with a very good parke which stands so
high that by the Lodge I rode up y^e banks I could see all the parke
about and y^e deer feeding and running.
There is a little river and large ponds—it gives you a good sight of the
Country about, w^{ch} is pretty much inclosed and woods a rich deep
Country and so the roads bad. There are severall high hills that I was
on that gave a large prospect to y^e eye. I saw some of this land
improved in the produce of woods w^{ch} y^e dyers use—its ordered in
this manner, all the Summer season if drie for 4 or 5 months they sow it
or plant it, but I thinke its sown—then its very Clean wedd when grown
up a little out of y^e ground, for it rises no higher then Lettice and
Much in such tuffts; y^e Coullour off y^e Leafe is much like Scabins and
the shape Resembling that: this they Cutt of Close to y^e ground and soe
out of y^e same roofe Springs the Leafe againe, this they do 4 tymes,
then in a Mill w^{th} a horse they Grind the Leaves into a paste, so
make it up in balls and drye them in a Penthouse to secure it from
raine—only the wind dryes it. This plantation of about 12 acres would
Employ 2 or 3 ffamilyes Men, Women and Children, and so they Generally
Come and Make little hutts for themselves for y^e Season to tend it.
Here I saw flax In the growth. The smell of the Woode is so strong and
offencive you can scarce beare it at y^e Mill: I could not fforse my
horse neare it.
ffrom thence I returned. Backe by a place where is a stone stands to
Divide ffour shires—Worcester, Oxford Glocester and Warwickshire—so I
ascended there a high hill and travaill’d all on y^e top of y^e hills a
pleasant and a good Roade. I came to Rowle Stone where are many such
greate stones as is at Stonidge, one stands uppright, a broad Stone
Called the King’s Stone, being the place a Saxon King was secured
against his enemies; thence to Broughton in all 26 miles. Thence I went
to Astrop where is a Steele water Much ffrequented by y^e Gentry, it has
some Mixture of Allum so is not so strong as Tunbridge. There is a ffine
Gravell Walke that is between 2 high Cutt hedges where is a Roome for
the Musick and a Roome for y^e Company besides y^e Private walkes. The
well runnes very quick, they are not Curious in keepeing it, neither is
there any bason for the spring to run out off only a dirty well full of
Moss’s which is all Changed yellow by the water. There are Lodgings
about for y^e Company and a little place Called Sutton. this is four
mile, thence to Oxfford 14 mile all in a very good Road and an exceeding
pleasant Country. You pass by many ffine seates, Park’s, woods, the Land
in Most part of this County is Rich Red Mould and deepe so as they are
forced to Plough their Ground 2 or 3 tymes for wheate and Cannot use
Wheeles to their Ploughs, its rich Land and produces plenty of all
things.
Oxford opens to view 2 mile off, its Scituation is ffine on a Round hill
Environ’d Round with hills adorn’d with Woods and Enclosures, yet not so
neare as to annoy y^e town which stands pleasant and Compact. There is a
ffine Causy for neare two mile by the Road for the Schollars to walke
on, y^e Theater stands the highest of all and much in y^e middle
Encompass’d with y^e Severall Colledges and Churches and other Buildings
whose towers and Spires appeares very Well at a Distance; the Streetes
are very Cleane and well Pitched and pretty broad. The high Streete is a
very Noble one, soe Larg and of a Greate Length. In this is y^e
University Church Called S^t Maryes, which is very large and Lofty but
Nothing very Curious in it. The Theater is a Noble Pile of building, its
Paved with Black and White Marble, exceeding Large and Lofty, built
Round and Supported by its own architecture all stone, noe pillars to
support it; itt has windows all round and full of Gallery’s ffor the
Spectators as well as Disputants when y^e acts are at Oxford. Over the
Rooff of this Large Roome are as Large roomes with Severall Divissions
which are Used for the Drying the Printed Sheetes of bookes, and this
has Light in Ovalls which is quite Round the Theater and in the Middle
is a large Cupelow or Lanthorne Whence your Eye has a very ffine view of
y^e whole town and Country; this is all Supported on its own work. Under
the theater is a roome w^{ch} is ffitted for printing, where I printed
My name Severall tymes. The outside of y^e theater there is a pavement
and spikes of Iron in a Raile round with pillars of stone to secure it
from the street. Just by it is a little building w^{ch} is full of
Antiquityes w^{ch} have many Curiositys in it of Mettles, Stones,
Ambers, Gumms.
There is the picture of a Gentleman y^t was a Great benefactor to it
being a travailer; the fframe of his picture is all wood carved very
finely with all sorts of figures, Leaves, birds, beast and flowers. He
gave them 2 ffine gold Meddals or Silve gilt w^{th} two ffine great
Chaines of the same, one was all curious hollow worke w^{ch} were given
him by some prince beyond the Sea. There is a Cane which looks like a
Solid heavy thing but if you take it in yo^r hands its as light as a
feather, there is a Dwarfe shoe and boote, there are several Loadstones,
and it is pretty to See how y^e steele Clings or follows it, hold it on
the top att some distance the needles stand quite upright, hold it on
either side it moves towards it as it rises and falls.
There are several good Colledges I saw most of y^m. Waddom hall is but
little; in Trinity Colledge is a fine neate Chapple, new made, finely
painted. Christ Church is y^e largest Colledge. The Courts large, y^e
buildings large and lofty; in one of the Courts is a tower new built for
to hang the Mighty Tom, that bell is of a Large size, so great a Weight
they were forced to have engines from London to raise it up to the
tower. There is a fine ring of bells in y^e Colledge S^t Magdalines, its
just by the river, there is to Maudline Hall (which is a very large and
good Cloyster) a very fine gravell walk, two or 3 may walke abreast, and
Rows of trees on either side, and this is round a water w^{ch} Makes it
very pleasant.
S^t Johns Colledge had fine gardens and walkes but I did but just look
into it, so I did into kings, and queens Colledges, and severall of the
rest I looked into, they are much alike in building but none so large as
Christ Church Colledge. I was in New Colledge w^{ch} is very neate, but
not large, the buildings good, Y^e Chapple very fine; Ye Garden was new
makeing, there is a large bason of water In the Middle there is little
walkes and mazes and round mounts for the schollars to divert
themselves.
In Corpus Christus Colledge w^{ch} is but small there I was entertained
at supper and eate of their very good bread and beare which is
remarkably the best anywhere Oxford Bread is.
The Physick garden afforded great diversion and pleasure, the variety of
flowers and plants would have entertained one a week. The few remarkable
things I tooke notice off was y^e Aloes plant w^{ch} is like a great
flag in shape, leaves and Coullour, and grows in the fform of an open
Hartichoake and towards the bottom of each Leafe its very broad and
thicke, In w^{ch} there are hollows or receptacles for y^e Aloes.
There is also y^e sensible plant, take but a Leafe between finger and
thumb and squeeze it and it immediately Curles up together as if pained
and after some tyme opens abroad again, it looks in Coullour like a
filbert Leafe but much narrower and long. There is also the humble plant
that grows on a long slender Stalke and do but strike it, it falls flatt
on y^e ground stalke and all, and after some tyme revives againe and
Stands up, but these are nice plants and are kept mostly under Glass’s,
y^e aire being too rough for them. There is y^e wormwood sage Called
Mountaigne sage, its to all appearance like Comon sage only of yellower
green, a narrow long Leafe full of ribbs; In yo^r Mouth the flavour is
strong of Wormwood to the taste. The library is as large as 2 or 3
roomes but old and a little disreguarded except one part w^{ch} is
parted from the rest, wansecoated and fitted up neate and painted which
was done by King james y^e Second w^n he designed Maudling Colledg for
his priests A Seminary. Here I met w^{th} some of my relations who
accompanyed me about to see some of the Colledges I had not seen before,
S^t John’s Colledge which is large and has a ffine Garden at one
Entrance of it with Large Iron-gates Carved and Gilt; its built round
two Courts: the Library is two walks, one out of the other the inner one
has severall Anatomy’s in Cases and some other Curiosity of Shells,
stone, bristol Diamonds, skins of ffish and beasts. Here they have the
Great Curiosity Much spoken off King Charles the ffirsts Picture; Y^e
whole Lines of fface band and garment to the Shoulders and armes and
garter is all written hand and Containes the whole Comon prayer, itts
very small the Character, but where a straight Line is you May read a
word or two; there is another of Gustaus Adolphus whose portraiture is
represented to the Eye in writeing alsoe and Contains his whole Life and
prowess; there is alsoe the Lord’s prayer and ten Commandments in the
Compass of a Crown piece; there are also Severall books all of writing
on vellum Leaves, and one book written in y^e Chinease Caractor on the
jndian barks off trees; there is alsoe a Book of the Genealogies of the
Kings since the Conquest to King Charles the Second, with the Severall
Coates all Gilded very fresh till the two or three Last w^{ch} is
pretended to be difficient from the art being Lost of Laying Gold so
ffine on anything to polish it, but thats a great Mistake for that art
is still in use in England, but the Excuse served the Negligence or
jgnorance of the workman; there was alsoe One book w^{th} severall Cutts
in it off y^e Conception of Christ till his Ascention. There was alsoe a
ffine prayer book or Mass book of Q. Marias, this was in the new part of
the Library which was neately wanscoated and adorned. There is a ffine
grove of trees and walks all walled round.
Queens Colledge Library is all new and a stately building Emulating that
of Christ Church in Cambridge, it is not so large and stands on one
range of Pillars of stone, the other ffront being all with Statues in
Stone, in Nitches and Carved adornements and on the tops ffigures and
statues. The Staircase is pretty broad but not so ffinely wanscoated or
Carved as that at Cambridge, the roomes is Lofty, but not so large, Well
Wanscoated and there is good Carvings; its Mostly full of Books in the
severall divisions and great Globes, its boarded Under foot, there is no
ballcoany because the prospect is but to a dead wall, its very handsom.
Trinity Colledge Chapple which was not ffinish’d the Last tyme I was at
Oxford but now it is a Beautifull Magnifficent Structure. Its Lofty and
Curiously painted—the Rooffe and Sides y^e history of Christ’s ascention
a very ffine Carving of thin white wood just Like that at Windsor it
being the same hand. The whole Chappel is Wanscoated with Walnut tree
and the fine sweet wood y^e same y^t y^e Lord Oxfford brought over when
high admiral of England, and has wanscoated his hall and staircase with.
It is sweet like Cedar and of a Reddish Coull^r, but y^e graine much
ffiner and well vein’d.
New Colledge which belongs to the ffiennes’s, William of Wickam the
founder, so I look’d on myself as some way a little Interested in that,
here I was very handsomly Entertained by M^r Cross w^{ch} was one of my
nephew Say and Seale’s Tutors when at Oxfford. These ffellowshipp in New
Colledge are about 100 say and a very pretty appartinent of Dineing
Roome, bed Chamber, a studdy and a room for a Servant, tho’ y^e
Serviteurs of the Colledge gives attendance; and here they may Live very
Neatly and well if Sober and have all their Curiosityes they take much
delight in, greens of all sorts, Myrtle, oringe and Lemons and
Lorrestine growing in potts of Earth and so moved about from place to
place and into the aire sometymes. There are severall New Lodgings added
and beautifyed here, the Gardens also w^{th} gravell and Grass walkes,
some shady and a great mount in the Middle w^{ch} is ascended by Degrees
in a round of Green paths deffended by greens cutt Low, and on y^e top
is a summer house. Beyond these Gardens is a bowling-green and round it
a Close shady walke, walled round and a Cutt hedge to the bowling-green.
There are in Oxford 18 Colledges and Six halls viz. New Colledge, Christ
Church, Martin Colledge, Corpus Christy Colledge, Magdalen Colledge,
University Coll, Pembroke Colledge, Linghorn Colledge, which is
overlook’t by the Devil, Brasen-nose Colledge, Wadham Colledge, Queens
Colledge, Belial Colledge, Orrel Colledge, Trinity Colledge, Exetter
Colledge, All-souls Colledge, Jesus Colledge, S^t Johns Colledge,—halls
7 viz Alben hall, Maudlin hall, Newin hall, Hart Hall, Glocester hall,
S^t Mary hall, and Edmond hall. There is a very odd Custom In Queen
Coll. for every new-years-day, there is a Certain Sum Laid out In
Needles and thread w^{ch} was Left by y^e founder and every Gentleman of
that Colledge has one given him w^{th} these words: Take this and be
thrifty.
In New Colledge Garden in y^e plott there is y^e Colledg Armes Cutt in
box and y^e 24 Letters round it.
Next plott a sun-dial cutt in box and true-Lovers knotts; att y^e
entrance of y^e Colledge over y^e gate is the ffiennes’s and y^e
Wickhams Arms Cutt in stone Sett up there by my Nephew Say when he was
at y^e Colledge before his travels. There is a large stone statue in the
Middle of y^e first quadrangle of William of Wickhams y^e ffounder,
railed in w^{th} Iron Grates.
In y^e Library are y^e pictures of some of y^e learned men w^{ch}
belonged formerly to the University.
From Oxford I went to Abington and Cross’d y^e River Thames on a bridge
att y^e end of y^e town and so Entered into Barkshire and rode along by
y^e thames side a good way, w^{ch} was full of Barges and Lighters—its 6
mile to Abington. Before I proceed will Insert y^e names of y^e
ffounders of y^e halls and Colledges in Oxford. University Colledge was
founded by King Alfred. Baliol Coll. was founded by John and David
Baliol, Merton Coll. by Walter de Mert, Exetter Coll. by Walter
Stapleton, Oriel Colledge by King Edward the second, Queen Coll. by
Robert Egglesfield, New Colledge by W^m of Wickham, Lincoln Colledge by
Richard Fleming, All souls Coll. by Henry Chicklay Magdalin Coll. by W^m
Wainfleet, Brason-nose Coll. by W^m Smith, and Rich^d Sutton,
Corpus-Christy Coll. by Rich^d fox, Christ-Church Coll. by Henry y^e
eight, Trinity Colledge by Tho. Pope, S^t Johns Coll. Thomas white,
Jesus Colledge by Queen Elizabeth, Wadham Coll. by Nicholas and Dorothy
Wadham, Pembrooke Coll. by Thomas Feisdale and Rich^d Whitewick, Hart
Hall by Walter Stapleton, S^t Mary Hall by King Edward the 2^d, Newin
Hall by W^m of Wickham, Magdalen Hall by W^m of Wainfleet, Gloster Hall
by thomas White, Alton Hall by y^e abbess of Alban, St Edmond Hall by
y^e arch Bishop of Canterbury.
From thence I went to Abington. Abington town seemes a very well built
town and the Market Cross is the ffinest in England, its all of free
stone and very Lofty; Even ye Isles or Walk below is a Lofty arch on
severall Pillars of square Stone and four square Pillars: over it are
Large Roomes with handsome windows, above w^{ch} is some Roomes with
Windows and Little Like the Theatre att Oxford only this is a Square
building and that round, it makes a very ffine appearance.
From thence I went to Elsly 8 mile farther, a little Market town, good
Inns thence Newbury. Most of this way is much on Downs and good Roads,
its 7 mile to Newbury where I called on an old acquaintance Marryed to a
tradesman M^r Every, who is so Like the Minister his Uncle y^t was my
acquaintance. Here I staid an hour and then proceeded on to Basenstoke
12 long miles, being my ready road to Chichister, and from Basenstoke to
Alton 8 mile and from thence to Petersffield and to Nurstead 11 long
Miles, this was in Hampshire so was Basenstoke: here I lay at a
Relations House M^r Holt that marry’d My Mothers sister. From thence I
went to Chichester through a very ffine Parke of the Lord Tankervailes,
stately woods and shady tall trees at Least 2 mile, in y^e Middle stands
his house w^{ch} is new built, square, 9 windows in y^e ffront and seven
in the sides. Brickwork w^{th} free stone coynes and windows, itts in
the Midst of fine gardens, Gravell and Grass walks and bowling green,
w^{th} breast walls Divideing each from other, and so discovers the
whole to view. Att ye Entrance a Large Coart w^{th} Iron gates open
w^{ch} Leads to a less, ascending some stepps, ffree stone in a round,
thence up More Stepps to a terrass, so to the house; it looks very neate
and all orchards and yards convenient. Thence I entered into Sussex and
soe Chichester, w^{ch} is 12 miles. This is but a Little Citty
Encompass’d with a wall w^{th} 4 gates which Casts the two streetes
directly across each other and so Lookes through from Gate to Gate, one
Streete does, the other it seemes did so formerly, but in new building
of some of their houses they have encroach’d into the Streete and so
hinders the through visto. In Midst of these 2 or 4 streetes Divided by
the Market place is a very faire Cross of Stone Like a Church or greate
arch, its pretty Large and pirramydy form w^{th} severall Carvings. The
Cathedrall is pretty Lofty, y^e painting on y^e Roofe in the quire and
Isles Looked very ffresh tho’ 300 yeares old, there is in the jsle on
y^e roofe y^e phaney of 6 faces joyned and 6 eyes and yet each face has
two eyes and in another place the faces turned outward and so the 6
faces are 12 eyes. The Quire is good, there is a fixed pulpit in it
overight y^e Bishops seate w^{ch} is not usual, I never saw it
before—Usually they have pulpits that are Moveable.
There is a faire Organ and another pulpit in y^e body of the Church,
there is also an entire Church in y^e Cathedral by it self w^{ch} is y^e
parish Church. There are in all 6 parishes and so many Churches besides
y^e Cathedrall. Over the alter is painted glass Chequer’d blew white and
Red, so deepe the Coull^r is struck into the Glass as makes it darkish,
in one of the Isles is a square place, on each side y^e Wall is filled
with y^e Kings pictures from y^e Conquest to their present Majestyes;
there is also one Picture pretty Large of a Saxon King in his Robes and
an abbott with his brethren, petitioning to build this Cathedrall which
before belonged to y^e Isle of Ely where was y^e Bishops see. There is
also one large Picture of another Bishop petitioning King Harry y^e
8^{th} to ffinish and paint y^e Church. On y^e other side the wall is
filled up w^{th} y^e severall abbots and Bishops since ye Conquest that
have been of Chichester. In their advancement they are brought from
Bristol to Chichester and next advance is to Ely and so on to greater
revenues. The tower is 260 odd steps, from whence you may see the whole
town. There are 3 or 4 good New houses, one is y^e Dean’s, Mr Edds, a
very good man; from thence I saw y^e Isle of Wight, Spitthead; the sea
comes within a mile of ye Citty, Remarkable for Lobsters and Crabs
Chichester is. There is an Engine or Mill about a Mile off the town
draws up salt water at one side from the sea and fresh water from a
Little rivulet w^{ch} descends from a hill, and so supply’s y^e town.
Halfe way off y^e tower you go round y^e quire and Looke down into it,
there are severall effigies of marble and allabaster of y^e Bishops of
the place and one of the Earle of Arundell and his Lady.
Chichester is 50 mile from London y^e Direct way by Guildford, but I
went through more of Sussex w^{ch} is much in blind dark Lanes and up
and down Steepe hills, to Billinghurst and passed through Arundell parke
belonging to y^e Duke of Norfolke, this was 18 mile, from whence I went
to Dorken in Surry 15 mile, where are y^e best trouts in y^e river
w^{ch} runns by Box hill a Remarkable diversion to people that go to
Epsum. The hill is full of box w^{ch} is Cutt out in severall walks
shady and pleasant to walk in tho’ the Smell is not very agreeable; the
brow of the hill being Such a height gives a Large prospect of a
ffruitfull vale full of inclosures and woods, and this River Runns
twining itself about and is called y^e Swallow, and Just about Dorken
and Leatherhead 4 mile thence it sinkes away in many places w^{ch} they
call Swallow holes, this Must be some quicksand, but y^e Report of it is
it sincks here and runnes und^r ground a Mile or two and rises about
Moles and Runs againe. Camden does credit this and repeates a tryal one
made of forceing a Duck into one of those falls w^{ch} Came out at y^e
other side by Moles w^{th} its ffeathers allmost all Rubbed off w^{ch}
supposses y^e passage to be streight, but how they Could force y^e Duck
into so difficult a way or whither anything of this is more than
Conjecture must be Left to every ones Liberty to judge. From Dorken its
10 mile to Kingsston, a Chalky hard Road w^{ch} is in Surrey, this
stands on the Thames, its a great Market for Corne; I was there on
Satturday and saw great quantity’s of Corn and Mault sold; thence I
passed by Richmond park wall a good way and Came in sight of Hampton
Court w^{ch} is a Noble Building, had the good queen Mary Lived to have
ffinished it, it would have been y^e noblest palace in y^e Kingdom. I
passed the end of Wanstead and Clapham and part of Lambeth having
Chealsey College in view and y^e whole Cittys of Westminster and London
so thro’ Southwarke over London bridge into Middlesex 10 mile in all
from Kingston—this Little journey was 220 mile.
Another journey into Herrifordshire from London, by Uxbridge to Islip 5
miles that is 7 mile off Oxford, from Islip to Woodstock where remaines
no foote steps of faire Rosomonds Bower, only y^e walls round y^e parke
and the little brookes that supply’d it w^{th} water for y^e baths and
wells and ponds. Thence to Morton Hindmost in Glocestershire to a
Relations house, My Uncle Rich^d ffiennes’s widdow, a little neate stone
built town, good Innes for y^e travellers being y^e road from London to
Worcester and Herrifford and wales. Thence over Broadway hill to Parshur
in all 30 mile by 12 of y^e Clock, thence to Upton, where we pass on a
large bridge over y^e fine River the Severn w^{ch} runs from Worcester
and to Glocester, Shrewsbury and to Bristol where it runns into the
sea—in some places its very broad, Some Miles over, but here it was no
broader than y^e Thames is at Staines—it affords good ffish, Salmon and
severall sorts besides. I think this River does not Ebb and flow so
farre into y^e Land. Here we Enter into Worcestershire and ascend
Manborn hills or as some term them y^e English Alps, a Ridge of hills
Divideing Worcestershire and Heriforshire and was formerly Esteemed the
divideing England and Wales, Herriford Shropshire &c. were Weltch
Countys. They are at least 2 or 3 miles up and are in a Pirramidy
fashion on y^e top. I rode up upon y^e top of one of y^e highest from
whence Could discern the Country above 40 miles round and noe hills but
what appeared Like Burrows or Mole hills, these being so high Nothing
Could Limitt y^e Eye but distance. Just at y^e Bottom stands Worcester
town which Looks like a Large well built town of Brick and Stone—I was
not in it. On the one Side of this high Ridge of hills Lies Worcester:
Oxford Glocestershire &c. appears in plaines, enclosures, Woods and
Rivers and many Great hills tho’ to this they appeare Low: on the other
Side is Herriforshire w^{ch} appears Like a Country off Gardens and
Orchards the whole Country being very full of fruite trees &c. it lookes
like nothing else—the apple and pear trees &c. are so thick even in
their Corn fields and hedgerows. The descent is as long and steep in
some places as its riseing was. Thence to a Relations house my uncle
John ffiennes and his son; New house, 20 mile from Parshur which I rode
all in one day in June and y^e miles are here very long so that at Least
it may be esteemed the Last 20 mile as long as the 30 mile gone in the
morning. My Cos’n ffiennes has made a very convenient habitation at this
place w^{ch} Contrary to its Name was an old built house—Timber worke,
but by his alteration and additions of good Brick walls round the Court
and 4 pretty gardens, w^{th} good Walks grass platts much good fruite,
of w^{ch} the Country does Easily produce, and if persons are Curious in
planting may have y^e best w^{ch} my Cosen has here, and the walls some
Lower than other gives the sight of y^e Garden at one view. Severall
large orchards behind the house with new Stables and offices w^{ch}
makes it look well. Itts in sight of severall houses, but all old
buildings—Lady Hopton’s in a Low meadow—there are woods by it and a
Little river parts them, called y^e Framy w^{ch} gives Name to Severall
Little villages as Cannon froom, Bishops ffroom, Castle froom; this
runnes into another Little river Called the Lug and both runnes into the
River Wye w^{ch} is on y^e back side of Herriford town. This was 7 miles
from us, its a pretty little town of timber buildings, the streetes are
well pitched and handsome as to breadth and Length. The river Wye is as
broad as the Thames is at Maidenhead bridge, or hardly so broad, its a
Rapid River and seemed much disturb’d; there is very good ffish in it;
it did not looke Cleare w^n I saw it, but was thick and yellow but y^t
is against foul weather.
The Mount which is the only thing of y^e Castle that remaines Commands
the sight of y^e river and town. The Cathedrall is very neate but small,
the Carving of the wood in the Quire was good. In the Library I was
shown by y^e Dean of Herriford y^e History of pope Joan with her
Picture, it was printed in and with the history of all the popes in Rome
successively—it was writt in old English, but I made a shift to read it.
There is ye Bishops Palace and y^e Deanes and Doctors houses w^{ch} are
the best buildings, but they are not very ffine or Large. 7 mile thence
on a flatt is M^r Paul folie’s Seate called Stoake in whose parlour you
see Herriford quite plainer—its a very good old house of Timber worke
but old ffashion’d, and good Roome for Gardens, but all in an old fform
and mode and M^r Folie Intends to make both a new house and gardens. The
latter I saw staked out, so it will be to no purpose to say anything of
it as its now only y^e good Barns and Stables that are new Covered
w^{th} slate, y^e ffine Bowling-green walled in, and a Summer-house in
it all new. There is beyond this, ffine woods and a delicate Parke above
the house—pailed in; y^t is stored with deare both red and ffallow and
affords 12 brace in a season, there are also fine Coppices.
From thence to Newhouse againe 7 mile, hither we went 5 or 6 tymes from
Newhouse to Broughton. We went by Eshum and y^e Vale of y^e Red horse
being a Vale of a great extent, the earth is all Red, its a very Rich
Country for Corn and ffruites and woods. Its Called y^e Vale of Eshum or
of y^e Red horse from a Red horse Cut out on some of y^e hills about it
and y^e Earth all Looking Red, y^e horse Lookes so as y^t of y^e white
horse Vale. Here is all very heavy way to Weston 25 mile in Glocester,
to a Parsonage of my Cos’n Pheramus ffiennes given him for his life by
his and our Grandfather Will^m Lord Viscount Say and Seale—its a neate
building all stone, and y^e walls round Court, Gardens and yards, all
are of Stone.
A mile thence was one of his sisters marry’d to a Parson M^r Browne that
has a very neate and Convenient Little house and Gardens. A mile from
thence is a very high hill from whence I Could see a great
distance—Warwick and Coventry and a large tract of Land all round. Att
the foote of this hill Lyes Camden Town w^{ch} I went through, its built
all of stone as is the Church w^{th} the Effigie of the Little
Viscountess Camden that lived to a great age and was Mother to the Earle
of Gainsborough; its Cut out in white Marble and stands in an arch in
the wall, w^{th} two Leav’d doores to it, to keep it from y^e dust—there
were severall little Monuments besides in the Church. From thence to
Brailes and thence to Broughton 19 miles to my Brother Say, w^{ch} is 50
miles from London; I went by Alsbury 20 thence 30 to London.
A journey I went into the New fforest in Hampshire to Ffarnum 38 mile,
there we go by Aberstone the Duke of Boltons house, stands on y^e Side
of a hill where are ffine Gardens and much ffruite. From Ffernum you see
the Castle w^{ch} is y^e Bishops of Winchesters house, its a large
building; thence you go to Alton 7 mile, thence to Alsford 7 mile more,
you go along on the hills in sight of the River all w^{ch} gives name to
those places, its a good Chaulkey way. Thence to Winchester 7 mile—in
one mile off the town is Woolsey y^t was formerly y^e Bishops house, a
large Rambling building like a little town, this is on Maudline hill
whereon a Considerable ffaire is kept neare Michelmas, y^e Traffique
mostly hopps which y^t Country produceth good and Cheese—its noted for a
vast many of Waines from Severall parts especially from the West
Country.
Winchester is a large town was once y^e metropolis, there is a wall
Encompassing it with severall Gates; the streetes are pretty good, Large
and long, y^e buildings but Low and old, only some few in the Close
w^{ch} are new built of the Doctors houses by y^e Colledge and the
Church. Y^e Deans house is a good old house, timber buildings; there are
some of the roomes Lofty and large, a dineing, drawing room and bed
Chamber very good; a long Gallery runns through the house and opens into
the Garden by a Descent of Severall Stone stepps. Y^e Garden is but
small—there are Green and gravel walkes higher and Lower, but its all in
an old fashion’d form but neately kept and severall Curiosityes in potts
of flowers and greens. The Bishops palace stands in a Low Ground or
Watry Meadow, its a timber building but so unpleasant that the Bishop
lives not at it but at Ffarly Castle about 20 mile off.
The Cathedrall at Winchester is one of y^e biggest in England and is to
be admired for its Largeness, not its neatness or Curiosity, there is an
ascent of 20 steps up to the quire that is finely Carved in y^e wood,
and on the top all round stands in ffine painted Chests the bones of the
Kings of England y^t were buried there; for Winchester was the Regal
Citty w^{ch} now it has lost, as also a peculiar art of dying y^e best
purples. In the Church there are no good Monuments worth notice, the
body of the Church is very large, y^e Steeple Lookes Noble, but y^e
Spire is not a neare so high as Salisbury. In the town is a new building
begun by K. Charles the Second for a Palace when he Came to hunt and for
aire and diversions in the Country. I saw y^e Modell of it w^{ch} was
very fine and so would it have been if ffinished; but there is only y^e
outside shell is set up, there were designed fine apartm^{ts} and two
Chapples but its never like to be finish’d now.
There is a good river runns thro’ the town, at y^e backside the Castle
stood high, but there now remaines only y^e ruined walls and banks on
w^{ch} they make gardens and hopp yards, w^{ch} runnes a great Length on
the side of y^e brow of the hill that some part of y^e town is built
on—it Lookes pretty. Here is a good Colledge it is on y^e same
foundation y^t New Colledge in Oxford are; both built and Endowed by
Great Will^m of Wickam an ancester of y^e ffiennes and Lord Say and
Seale. So all the founders Kindred by his own Statutes are first to be
Chosen and have a Right to many priviledges—its only in default or want
of any of his Kindred or of Such and Such Parishes w^{ch} he names that
any other person ought or Can be Chosen a Child of this Colledg. They
have such a Number above 100—they have their Diet and a gown every year,
and so much mony Every quarter, and here they have their Learning and
provision.
There are also fellowships—w^{ch} as they become vacant they who are
fitt its bestowed on them—on w^{ch} a young Man May Maintain himself
well and so improve his Learning. These fellowships at New Colledg are
forfeited if they do not live there, or for y^e most part; and also as
soone as they are Marryed they are put out in number fellows and master
and warden, but at winchester the fellowships are of greater value and
do appertaine to a person during Life in Case he Comes and resides for
y^e most part there, even when they are marryed.
I thinke there are but 7 fellowships here. There is a warden of y^e
Colledge and a Schoolemaster and usher at Winchester. Y^e Colledge is a
good Pile of Building there is a very pretty Chapple in it and a very
fine Library w^{ch} is in y^e Cloysters y^t are very good for walking.
There is a large hall they eate in and have their exact Commons to Every
one, so have the fellows, their Lodgings are Convenient and all their
offices, the Warden has built a new appartment for himself w^{ch} looks
well about a mile or two beyond Winchester, we go by S^t Cross, a Large
hospitall for old men and I thinke most is for y^e decayed schollars.
The Masters place is worth 1000 pound a yeare—it used to be annexed to
y^e Warden of the Colledges place, by their ffoundation they are to give
reliefe to any Travellers that call there so farre as a Loafe of bread
as big as our two penny bread is and a Draught of beare and a piece of
mony. I thinke its y^e value of a Groate. Ffrom thence I came to
Redbridge, thence to Buckland in the new forest in all 20 mile; ffrom
Buckland w^{ch} was a Relation’s house—S^r Rob^t Smiths—its a mile to
Limington a seaport town—it has some few small shipps belongs to it and
some Little trade, but y^e Greatest trade is by their Salterns. Y^e Sea
water they draw into Trenches and so into Severall ponds y^t are secured
in y^e bottom to retain it, and it stands for y^e Sun to Exhale y^e
Watry fresh part of it, and if it prove a drye sumer they make the best
and most Salt, for y^e raine spoyles y^e ponds by weakning y^e Salt.
When they think its fit to boyle they draw off the water from y^e ponds
by pipes w^{ch} Conveys it into a house full of Large Square Iron and
Copper panns; they are shallow but they are a yard or two if not more
Square, these are fixed in Rowes one by another it may be twenty on a
Side, in a house under which is the ffurnace y^t burns fiercely to keepe
these panns boyling apace, and as it Candy’s about y^e Edges or bottom
so they Shovell it up and fill it in great Baskets and so the thinner
part runns through on Moulds they set to Catch it, w^{ch} they Call Salt
Cakes. Y^e rest in y^e Baskets drye and is very good Salt and as fast as
they Shovell out the boyling Salt out of y^e panns they do replenish it
w^{th} more of their Salt water in their pipes. They told me when the
Season was drye and so the Salt water in its prime they Could make 60
quarters of Salt in one of those panns w^{ch} they Constantly attend
Night and day all the while the fire is in the ffurnace, because it
would burn to waste and Spoyle y^e panns w^{ch} by their Constant Use
wants often to be repaired. They Leave off Satterday Night and let out
y^e fire and so begin and kindle their fire Monday Morning. Its a pretty
Charge to light the fire. Their Season for makeing Salt is not above 4
or 5 Months in y^e year and y^t only in a dry Summer. These houses have
above 20 some 30 others more of these panns in them, they are Made of
Copper. They are very Carefull to keep their ponds well secured and
Mended by good Clay and Gravell in the bottom and Sides and so by sluces
they fill them out of the sea at high-tides and so Conveyed from pond to
pond till fit to boyle. Ffrom Limmington to Lindhurst is 6 mile, where
is a house of y^e Kings w^n he comes to hunt in the new fforest, and y^e
Lord Warden of the fforest is there when he Comes to hunt and Hawk, to
Whome Comes all the Gentry of the Country to waite on him—he dines at
Night from 7 to 12 of the Clock. He is served in plaite, those y^t hunt
with him all day Comes and Dines or Supps with him. He has power to
dispose and order y^e Concerns of y^e forrest for y^e timber for shipps
and to have it Cherrish’d and secured from Spoyle, as also the deare and
Game to be preserved, y^e disposeing of the Lodges are in his power.
There are 15 Lodges and these are disposed to Gentlemen that have
underkeepers y^t takes care of it, and w^t is peculiar to y^e New
forrest and known no where Else are these Brouce Deare; at these
severall Lodges y^e Keepers gather Brome and at Certaine tymes in y^e
day by a Call gathers all the Dear in within the railes which belongs to
Each Lodge, and so they Come up and feed upon this Brouce and are by
that meanes very fatt and very tame, so as to Come quite to Eate out of
y^e hand. All the day besides they range about and if they meete anybody
if it be their own keeper without y^e pail of y^e Lodge they will run
from him as wild as Can be. These Lodges are about 4 miles asunder and
its a great Priviledge and advantage to be a Cheefe Keeper of any of
these Lodges; they have Venison as much as they please and Can easily
shoote it when the troop Comes up w^{th} in y^e paile, for none are
allowed to Shoot out in y^e forrest, nor are allowed to go out w^{th}
Gun or dog or to keep any Except Gentlemen, and not they if they have
been found Shooteing in y^e fforest. I think its ffellony for any to
kill y^e Kings dear. there are severall Rangers of y^e fforest, and 6
verderers y^t are their justices or judges of all matters Relateing to
y^e fforest, these ought allwayes to reside in y^e fforest and are to
attend the King when he Comes into y^e new fforest. Clothed in green,
they have a buck and Doe Every year for their ffee, besides being
Masters—the under keepers are at their beck so y^t they Can get as Much
venison as they want. There is also a Rider of y^e fforest who is to see
about y^t all things are secure and well done and y^e Timber kept and
Deer, to see they are not spoyled or Destroyed: his Right is to all the
Deer y^t are hurt or Maimed as also he is to have y^e Shoulder of y^e
first Stagg that is hunted and killed in the Season. There is a Bow man
w^{ch} is to provide y^e King w^{th} Bow and arrow when he Comes into
y^e fforest—they have some priviledge also but y^e shooteing by bow and
arrow being Left off, y^t office is not regarded.
Ffrom Lindhurst about a Mile is a parke called new parke enclosed out of
y^e fforrest with Pailes, it belongs to y^e Kings house; there is a
house in it w^{ch} was the Lodge—a large old Timber house. Ffrom
Limington to y^e Isle of Wight its about 4 Leagues; to Yarmouth you go
by Hurst Castle, y^t runnes on a point of land into y^e sea just by the
Needles within a League of Yarmouth, and those needles are severall
Great Rocks on y^t side of the Island, craggy, and severall stand out
into the sea w^{ch} makes it very hazardous for shipps to pass there,
Especially in a Storme or for Strangers—y^e passage being narrow between
the Needles and Hurst Castle, Can easily Command any ship that would
pass there. Yarmouth is a little Sea-port and has a Little Castle that
Can annoy Any Enemy that should pass by Hurst, so between them may well
Secure y^t part of y^e Isle and all on y^e back side of the jsland are
those Needles y^t are a Natural ffortification it being inaccessible.
So at another part of y^e jsle there is Sandumffort w^{ch} is a pretty
strong place. Y^e jsland is 10 mile in the breadth and 30 mile in
Length—Upon Most of the high hills you see the wall of y^e sea on both
Sides, if not all round you as in some places. Ffrom Yarmouth to Newport
is seven mile, a little town y^t y^e Arm of the Sea Comes up to—its one
of the biggest towns in y^e Island; in a mile off it is Casbrooke Castle
into w^{ch} King Charles y^e first retired when he was worsted by y^e
Parliaments forces—there are some good roomes still that remaine but y^e
most part are destroyed and only ruined walls to be seen. There is a
deep well of 40 ffathom they draw up y^e bucket by a great Wheele in
w^{ch} they put a horse or ass—a stone thrown down sounds a long tyme
ere you hear it splash into y^e water. About seven miles thence is Cowes
both East and west 2 ports for Shipps to ride in and be Recruited w^{th}
all sorts of provisions w^{ch} is done on very reasonable terms. Y^e
ffertillity of the whole jsland produces Corn of all sorts in great
plenty, and all sorts of Cattle and butter; Cheese as also Great Store
of ffish and ffowle; there is some Little part fforrest land but for y^e
most part are Meddows and good downs.
The little ports are all fitted for y^e Seamen and their affaires,
Little houses, not but there are severall good old houses that are
Gentlemens seats, as S^r Robert Dilington at Knighton and S^r John
oglander at Nunwell, S^r Robert Worstly and severall More. S^r Rob^t
Holmes has a good Estate there, he was the Governour of y^e Island and
of Yarmouth Castle and there he is buried, Where is his Statue Cutt in
Length in white Marble in the Church and railed in with Iron Grates; he
was raised from Nothing and an imperious Govern^r, and what he Scrap’d
together was forced to Leave to his Nephew and base Daughter, haveing no
other, and they have set up this Stately monument which Cost a Great
deal. There is one place called Mottstone just by the sea side, the Name
Comes from many Great Stones that stand up in the Grounds not unlike y^e
stones at Stonidge in Wiltshire, but this sort of stone is in Many
places of y^e Island and most of the houses are built of Stone, some few
Brick. From a hill just above Cowes that runns along by the Sea side You
May Easily see Spitthead And S^t Hellens point and all the Shipps that
Lay along y^e Road and that Lay in Portsmouth haven. From Ride is 3
Leagues to portsmouth, I pass’d it in an hour. Portsmouth is a very Good
town, Well built with Stone and brick, its not a large town, there are
Walls and Gates about it, and at Least eight Bridges and Gates without
one another w^{th} Ditches which secures it very Strongly to y^e
Land-ward, to the Sea the ffortifications are not so strong; there is a
plattform with Guns and Pallisadoes. There is a good dock for Building
Shipps, but about 6 mile off at Red bridge are the best Shipps built.
There are most of the great Shipps Lye at Anchor here.
I was a board y^e Royal Charles, and the Royal James, which are ffine
Shipps, y^e Roomes Spacious for Length and Breadth but not high. There
was a large Chappel and Cabbin with Damaske furniture. The Castle at
Portsmouth is not Great—its Rather Called the Kings house where is a
Great deal of armes. I was in the Dineing Roome where King Charles y^e
Second met Queen Katherine and was marryed to her and set the crown on
her head. There from that roome out of double doores goes a long wooden
bridge to the Plattforme; just by is South sea Castle which is wash’d
round by y^e sea and pretty deep water att Spring tides, it Looks very
fine but think its but of Little Strength or Service. Above the town is
a very fine down Called Porchester down very pleasant for Sports Hawking
and hunting; 6 mile over this down is Southwicke, Coll: Nortons a good
old house Capable of being Made ffine, Large Garden room—Woods and
Grounds Lying well about it and a good Warren, Coppices and y^e Stately
G^t Timber trees as may be seen. He was an old officer in the Long
parliam^t service—this is 15 mile from Winchester and from Winchester to
South-hampton is ten miles; that is a very neate clean town and the
Streets well pitch’d and kept so, by their Carrying all their Carriages
on Sleds as they do in holland, and permit no Cart to go about in y^e
town, and keep it Clean Swept—this was formerly more strictly observ’d
when the town was full of trade, for it is a good port, but now y^e
trade has failed and y^e town almost forsooke and neglected. Its a place
of No Strength now, by reason of y^e Castle being ruined and the
fortifications neglected and the Gunns taken thence, tho’ by most its
thought the best scittuated port for Shipps to Ride and take their
provision in and so Capable of tradeing; but the last 2 Reignes for near
40 year discourag’d it being a proper place for the french to have
Seiz’d and Secured for themselves. About 3 Leagues off is Cashot Castle
just out into the Sea w^{ch} does Encompasse it all but a very little
point of land Called Horsy Beach that runnes out into the New forrest by
Bewly w^{ch} was an abby in the fforest, for the Extent of y^e fforrest
is large—Miles long; All round Casholt Castle on the Beach itts as full
of fine Cockle shells so that they heap them up all round the Castle
Like a wall.
It was at South-hampton King Philip Landed when he Came to marry Queen
Mary. Ffrom thence its 6 miles to Rumsey, and the Road Runns just by a
ffine house of one of my Relations S^r John S^t Barbe’s; the Rows of
trees in the avenues runns just from y^e Road to the front of the house.
You Enter a Court thats wall’d in and blew Iron gates. The Court has a
Round in the Middle rail’d in, designed for a Bowling Green, and the
Coaches drive round it to Come to the Entrance w^{ch} is severall stone
Stepps to a broad Space that is railed w^{th} Balls and Banisters: the
Space is paved w^{th} broad free stone the stepps y^e Same 8 or 10. The
house is a halfe Roman H. Y^e hall is in the Middle w^{th} double
doores, its very lofty and large there’s a Chimney just against the
Entrance on the Right hand, runns in an Entry through the house to the
back yard, where are the offices, Still house and Barnes and Coach
houses and a very ffine Stable built of Brick—there are large
partitions. In this Entry you have the pantry and Cellars and on the
other side y^e Kittchin Larders and pastry w^{ch} is one wing of the
house and just behind the hall is y^e Servants hall and a Little parlour
just by the pantry and back staires. Then the great hall is divided in
halfe by the Staircase, w^{ch} hangs on its own work not supported of
Either Side, to the first half pace and all the way up without Support,
on the one Side they are of oake, the railes and Banisters are
varnished. The halfe paces are Inlaid w^{th} yew wood w^{ch} lookes a
yellowish Red in Squaires; they Land on the next Story with a space of
this Inlaid worke of a good Bigness the whole Compass of y^e Staircase.
The Roofe of the Staires is even w^{th} y^e Roofe of y^e next Story; on
the other side of the Staires are severall Rows of Pillars of wood
Painted Like Marble for to walke between, and you pass quite under the
Staires into a Little Closet, and a little farther into a back yard
where is a Bathing house and other necessarys. There is a screen stands
on the side of the Staires next the Chimney to make that part more
private. Y^e hall Runns quite through to the Garden where there is a
door w^{th} stepps down and so at this door you see thro’ the house to
y^t back yard I mentioned at y^e End of the Entry. The other wing of y^e
house is a large parlour and drawing Roome, this is out of the hall by
the Garden; the hall is well painted and a Carved Cornish round and
pillars on the wanscoate round the Roome. The parlour is wanscoated and
painted a Cedar Coullour. The next Story you Enter of this large halfe
pace on the Right hand, into a door w^{ch} Leads fore Right to a
Balcony, and on the Left hand into a passage, w^{ch} leads to the
Chamber over the drawing Roome, and by it is a Servants Roome Even
w^{th} y^e passage. On the Right hand is a passage Leads to Another
Roome just over against—open the doores and there is a perfect visto, so
there is the other way and a servants roome even w^{th} y^e passage;
beyond this roome is a back Stair Leads to the bath, and by y^e Servants
Roome is a large back Staire that Leads to the Next Story, the Great
staires Ending here, and on the Left hand they lead into a large dineing
Roome &c.—then a drawing Roome and next a bed Chamber w^{ch} has a back
doore to the back Staires by y^e kitchin. These doores open through to
y^e End one way the best bed Chamber and quite to the balcony y^e other
side a visto.
Within the dineing roome on ye Left hand is a very Largo bed Chamber
w^{ch} jndeed is y^e best—good tapistry hangings—here is design’d a
velvet bed its painted white; there are very good Pictures; here is a
Little back Staires to y^e Servants hall. The dineing Roome is
wanscoated and varnish’d the other Roomes nothing done to—that is the
drawing Roome and Chamber. W^{th} in there is damaske, and Camlet beds
in y^e other Roomes, and off these back Staires by y^e Kitchin is a
Chamber, anty Roome, dressing roome, 2 Closets These back staires goe up
to the next Story y^t Leads to the roomes over this, and to a long
Gallery that is Window all to the ffront and Leads to all y^e Chambers.
There is handsome roomes only those at y^e Side and End are Garret
fashion—between are Servants roomes and Closets: thence a little pair of
Stairs Leads up to the Gallery and thence up to the Cupilow which is in
the Middle of the house, all Windows round and on y^e top has a Gold
ball that holds severall Gallons. On each Wing there are 2 little
towers, one has y^e Clock the other a Sundial, and on the top two gold
balls of a Lesser size. The Gardens are walled in, some with brest
walls, some higher with flower potts on them; severall places with open
grates to Look through with Stone balls or ffigures on the pillars each
Side the Gates everyway. There is a water house that by a Wheele Casts
up the Water out of y^e River just by, and fills y^e pipes to Serve all
y^e house and to fill y^e bason designed in the middle of the Garden
w^{th} a Spout in the middle.
The Gardens are not finish’d but will be very ffine, w^{th} Large Gates
open to y^e Grounds beyond, some of w^{ch} are planted with trees. Its a
fine thing, but doubt its no very good aire—it stands in a low place
near y^e River, the hills all round on y^t Side and y^e Mold and Soyle
is Black and such as they Cut up for peate. The road from hence to
Salisbury is by White Parish and Joy Church and you come in Sight of my
Lord Coal-rain house that Looks Like a good Building of Stone, but its
just so upon the Great River that it lookes Like a Little Castle or
Shipp. This river runns to Breamore from Salisbury just by a very fine
Seat of y^e Lady Brooks which was S^r W^m Doringtons heir. The house
Stands finely to the River a brick building. You Enter into a Walled
Court Soe up 12 Stepps at Least into a Noble hall: on the Left hand was
a parlour, and on y^e Right a large drawing roome a Little parlour and
Large Staires up to Severall very handsom Chambers ffurnished with good
Tapistry and damaske and some velvets, w^{ch} was new because the fire
had Spoiled most of the goods; but the house was built just in y^e same
ffigure. The Kitchins and offices are all under y^e roomes of State and
they go down Steps to it Under y^e Arch of Stepps that ascend to the
hall: out of the drawing roome by Glass doors you enter the Garden on a
terrass and y^t by Stepps, so to Severall Walks of Gravel and Grass and
to the Gardens, one below another with Low Walls to give the view all at
once. Here was fine flowers and Greens Dwarfe trees and oring and Lemon
trees in Rows w^{th} fruite and flowers at once and some ripe; they are
y^e first oring trees I ever Saw. Here are Stately woods and walks. This
River Runns to ffording bridge A Little place, thence to Kingwood,
thence to Christchurch; it turns many Great Mills and there have been
great attempts to make it Navigable w^{ch} would be of Great advantage,
but all Charge has been Lost in it. There is Store of good ffish in it;
it runns to Christchurch and divides the new fforest from Wiltshire,
there is a large Bridge that crosses at Christchurch where it runns into
the Sea. This is 18 miles from Salisbury 20 miles from Newtontony over
y^e down, 6 to Rumsy 4 to Lockerly two to East Titherly where S^r
ffrancis Rowles has a fine house and Garden and Groves. One on the Edge
of y^e hill, all in sight of y^e Road Looks ffinely of Scott and
Norroway ffirrs in Rows and Looks very well. In 2 mile of this is Dean
w^{ch} was S^r John Evlings, now his Grandsons Lord Kingston, it seems
to be a good Lofty Building, its woody and very ffruitfull. There is
Likewise a good old seate of M^r Whiteheads my grandfathers, Normans
Court in West Titherly; its well wooded, good Gardens, but a very old
house; a ffine Grove of ffirrs to y^e ffront. This is 7 mile from
Newtontony and as much to Stockbridge w^{ch} is y^e Road to London;
thence to Sutton 12 miles, thence to Basinstoake 12 mile. Its a Large
town and has a good trade being a Road. A mile thence is Basin on y^e
Left hand w^{ch} was a house of y^e Duke of Boltons, but being a
Garrison in y^e Civil warrs was pulled down and Now only some part
remaines, and the Gardens w^{ch} are improved and new walls built: fine
fruit and vineyards, a large parke to it. On y^e Right hand about a mile
off is Hackwood which is another Seate of y^e Duke of Boltons in a
pretty parke. It looks very pretty not large. Basinstoake Lyes watrish
but its on Chalke. A little further on y^e Left hand at some distance
you see a fine Seate of S^r Robert Henleys, it looks Like a little town,
its so large a building, and they say its a noble thing ffinished and
furnish’d very well with good Gardens.
To Harfordbridge 8 mile thence to bagshott 8 mile a heavy sandy way, and
y^e Same from thence to Egam 8 mile; thence to Staines a mile, where we
Cross y^e Thames on a bridge and enter Middlesex—thence to London 15
miles.
I went to see Hampton Court 10 mile from London; it looks Like a little
town y^e buildings runn so great a Length on y^e ground, Y^e old
buildings and y^e New part w^{ch} King William and Queen Mary built. Y^e
Queen took Great delight in it. Y^e new was but just y^e shell up and
some of y^e Roomes of State Ceil’d but nothing ffinished. The roomes
were very Lofty, round a Large Court and all the appartments intire. The
old buildings were on the other side the prioy Garden: there was the
water Gallery that opened into a ballcony to y^e water, and was decked
with China and ffine pictures of y^e Court Ladyes drawn by Nellor.
Beyond this came severall Roomes, and one was pretty Large, at y^e four
Corners were little roomes like Closets or drawing roomes, one pannell’d
all w^{th} jappan, another w^{th} Looking Glass, and two w^{th} fine
work under pannells of Glass. There was the queens Bath and a place to
take boat in the house. The Gardens were designed to be very ffine,
Great fountaines and Grass plotts and gravell walkes, and just against
the middle of y^e house was a very large fountaine, and beyond it a
large Cannal Guarded by rows of Even trees that runn a good way. There
was fine Carving in the Iron Gates in the Gardens w^{th} all sorts of
ffigures, and Iron spikes Round on a breast wall and severall Rows of
trees.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
_HERE BEGINS MY NORTHERN JOURNEY IN MAY 1697_
ffrom London to Amwell Berry in Hartfordshire 19 mile, thence to Bishops
Startford in Essex 13 mile, w^{ch} is a very pretty Neat Market town, a
good Church and a delicate spring of Water w^{ch} has a wall built round
it, very Sweet and Cleare water for drinking. There is a little river
runns by the town y^t feeds severall Mills.
Thence we Went to Andlyend 10 miles, a house of y^e Earle of Sussex
w^{ch} makes a Noble appearance Like a town, so many towers and
buildings off stone within a parke w^{ch} is walled round. A good River
runs through it, we pass over the bridge. Its built round 3 Courts,
there are 30 great and Little towers on the top, and a great Cupilow in
the Middle. The roomes are Large and Lofty with good Rich old ffurniture
tapistry, but Noe beds in y^t part we saw. There are 750 (150?) Roomes
in the house.
The Cannall in the Midst of the parke Look’d very fine, its altogether a
Stately palace and was built for one of y^e Kings. Thence to
Little-berry one Mile, where is a house with abundance of Curiosityes
all performed by Clock work and Such like, w^{ch} appears very Strange
to the beholders, but the master was not at home so I saw no more than
the Chaire they Set in when they are Carry’d about. All the Country is
pleasant; between this and Cambridge you go in sight of so many neate
villages w^{th} Rows of trees about them and very neate built
Churches—Sometimes 5 or 6 of these are in view together in 3 or four
mile of Each other—Y^e Churches are stone-work. We went to Babaram where
was a house of S^r Rich^d Bennets in a pleasant parke prettyly situated,
only it is in a Low ground, but y^e fine Rows of trees in the severall
avenues Came just down to the Road: thence to Bornbridge 5 mile, thence
to Hodmogoge hills 3 miles, w^{ch} looks at a distance Like a long Barn,
but when you approach Near you see it a Great fortification or Ruines of
a Castle, with great trenches one within another, and all y^e
buildings—there is only a long string of Stables to keep y^e Kings
hunting horses. The hill is of a great height from whence you have a
great prospect of y^e whole Country and of Cambridge w^{ch} is 3 mile
off. The town Lyes in a bottom and Marshy Ground all about it severall
miles w^{ch} is Garnish’d with willows; y^e buildings are old and
Indifferent. the Streetes mostly narrow, (except near the Market place),
w^{ch} is pretty spacious—there stands the University Church. Trinity
Colledg is the ffinest, yet not so Large as Christchurch College in
oxford. In the first Court there is a very ffine ffountaine in the
Middle of y^e Quadrangle w^{th} a Carved top and Dials round—there are
Large Cloysters. The Library runns all y^e rang of building at y^e End
and stands on 3 rows of stone pillars; it opens into the Gardens and
walk w^{th} 3 Large Gates or doores of Iron Carv’d very ffine w^{th}
fflowers and Leaves. The river runs at y^e back side of most of y^e
Colleges; they have fine stone bridges over it and gates that Lead to
fine walks; Y^e rivers name is Cam.
The Library farre exceeds that of Oxford, the Staires are Wanscoated and
very large and Easye ascent, all of Cedar wood, y^e room spacious and
Lofty paved w^{th} black and white marble, y^e sides are wanscoated and
decked with all Curious books off Learning, their Catalogue and their
Benefactors. There is two Large Globes at each End w^{th} teliscopes and
microscopes and y^e finest Carving in wood, in flowers, birds, Leaves,
ffigures of all sorts as I ever saw. There is a large Balcony opens at
the End, very large, all finely painted all over y^e history of the New
Testament. Its a hundred and twenty steps to y^e roofe and supported by
noe pillars all Arch of Stone: You walke on y^e Arch or Cradle as its
term’d. There is 32 Little windows Cut in Stone just as you ascend to
y^e Cradle or Arch w^{ch} runns on Either side, and a p^r of Staires of
8 stepps to every 3 windows w^{ch} Lead up to the Arch; thence you
ascend the Leads over all w^{ch} are fine, secured by battlements round,
there are 4 large Spires: at each corner one. On these Leads you May see
a vast Country round.
You see Ely-minster and y^e towers; this is a noble building and Stands
on so advantagious a ground, and so Lofty built y^t its perspicious
above y^e town; this is in Lieu of y^e Theatre at Oxford there being
none here. St Johns College Garden is very pleasant for y^e fine walks
both Close Shady walks and open Rows of trees and quickset hedges. There
is a pretty bowling green with Cut arbours in the hedges. Queens
Colledge is old but a stately and Lofty building. Claire Hall is very
Little but most Exactly neate in all parts, they have walks w^{th} Rows
of trees, and bridges over the river and fine painted Gates into y^e
ffields. Katherine Hall is new built, the Chapple was not Quite
ffinished; the apartments for y^e fellows and Gentlemen Commoners are
very ffine, a Large dineing roome, a good Chamber and good Studdy and
this for 8£ a year.
Here we are Entertained by some of our Companys acquaintance. From
Cambridge we go just by Peterborough: we see the Minster and y^e town,
very plaine all built with Stone. The road is very pleasant to
Ffenistanton, 8 miles to Godmanchester, and from thence Huntington 1
mile. We cross the River Lin over a bridge and so Enter Huntingtonshire.
This river goes to Lin in Norfolke its a very pleasant Country to travel
in in y^e Summer, but after raines its in Some places deep, but the
prospects are delighting; Little town and good Enclosure w^{th} woods
and same of the Country’s. Huntington is but a Small Shire town; just by
it is a house of the Lord Sandwich, y^t it is pretty large. We enter a
good Lofty hall, in it hangs the Ship in w^{ch} he was lost, that is the
representation of it Cut out in Little and all things Exactly made to
it; there is a good parlour and drawing roome: well proportion’d are y^e
rooms w^{th} good old ffurniture and good Pictures. There is a Large
dineing roome above w^{th} good tapistry hangings, and its Ceil’d w^{th}
jrish oake Carv’d with points hanging down like fine ffret worke; this
wood no spider will weave on or endure. There are good bed Chambers with
good furniture and fine pictures; over one of the Chimneys is a fine
picture of Venus were it not too much uncloth’d. The Gardens and
Wilderness and Greenhouse will be very fine when quite ffinished with
the dwarfe trees and gravell walks. There is a large fountaine or bason
which is to resemble that in the privy garden at Whitehall, which will
ffront the house.
The high terrass walks Look out on the Road. all this Country is good
Land and ffruitfull and much like Oxfordshire.
Ffrom Huntington we came to Shilton 10 mile, and Came in Sight of a
great water on the Right hand about a mile off w^{ch} Looked Like Some
Sea it being so high and of great Length: this is in part of the ffenny
Country and is Called Whitlsome Mer, is 3 mile broad and six long. In
y^e Midst is a little jsland where a great Store of Wildfowle breeds,
there is no coming near it; in a Mile or two the ground is all wett and
Marshy but there are severall little Channells runs into it w^{ch} by
boats people go up to this place. When you enter the mouth of y^e Mer it
lookes fformidable and its often very dangerous by reason of sudden
winds that will rise Like Hurricanes in the Mer, but at other tymes
people boate it round the Mer with pleasure. There is abundance of good
ffish in it. This was thought to have been Sea some tyme agoe and
Choak’d up and so remaines all about it for some miles a ffenny Marshy
Ground for those little Rivers that runns into y^e Sea some distance of
miles. Thence to Wangfford 2 miles, thence to Stamfford 5 miles.
We pass over a down where is a Cross that directs three wayes York,
London and Oatly, and here we Come in Sight of a Gentlemans house that
stands finely on a hill in a parke, pretty high with fine groves about
it. A little farther when we are pass’d the water att Wansford we enter
Ruttlandshire w^{ch} seems more woody than y^e others. Stamfford town is
as fine a built town all of stone as may be seen; its on the side of a
hill w^{ch} appears very fine in the approach.
Severall very good Churches with high Spires and towers very
ornamentall, its not very Large, but much ffiner than Cambridge, and in
its view has severall good houses. On the Right hand of Stamfford is a
house of M^r Neals in a pretty neate parke pailed in; y^e house not very
big but Lookes well. On the Side of y^e hill over against Stamfford and
on the Left hand over against the town Stands My Lord of Exeters Burly
house, Eminent for its Curiosity. The Situation is the finest I ever
saw, on the Edge of the hill and severall Rows of trees of severall
acres about it quite to the Road. It stands in a very fine parke w^{ch}
is full of deer and fine Rows of trees. On Either side a very broad
Glide or visto that Lookes finely to y^e River and to the adjacent
hills, a distance, both with fine woods. The town of Stamfford appears
very fine on the Left hand and most noble woods on the Right hand. The
house Looks very nobly; y^e Garden very fine within one another w^{th}
Lower and higher walls deck’d with all Sorts of trees and Greens; very
fine Gravell walks and Grass squaires w^{th} Statues and fine Grass
walks, dwarfs and all sorts of Green trees and Curious things: very fine
fountaines, there is one in the middle of the Garden thats just to y^e
Middle also of the house, that is of an exceeding great size. There is a
fine vineyard, Warren and Groves w^{ch} makes its prospects very
delightfull.
You enter a large Court walled, thence to a Space of Ground pretty
Large, Encompass’d round w^{th} a little wall of a yard High of free
Stone very ffine wrought, on which are to be Iron railes and spires,
that was not ffinish’d nor the space paved which is design’d to be of
broad Stone: all before the house the little breast wall is in a Compass
Like a halfe Moone.
The Sides up to the house are built in roomes for appartments, you
ascend the house by Stone Steps—about 12—that all turn round; the upper
Stepp is at Least 20 foot steps in Compass; the door you enter is of
Iron Carv’d the ffinest I ever saw all sort of Leaves, flowers, figures,
birds, beasts, wheate in y^e Carving; very Large y^e doors are—there is
an Inside doore as Case to it. On the other side of the house is Such
another door that Leads into a Court. The hall is a noble roome painted
ffinely, y^e walls with armory and Battles; its Lofty and paved with
black and white Marble. You go thence into parlours, dineing rooms,
drawing roomes and bed Chambers one leading out of another, at Least 20
that were very Large and Lofty, and most fine Carving in the
Mantlepieces, and very fine paint in pictures, but they were all Without
Garments or very little, that was the only fault, the immodesty of y^e
Pictures, Especially in My Lords appartment. This bed Chamber was
ffurnish’d very Rich, the tapistry was all blew Silke and Rich Gold
thread, so that the Gold appeared for y^e Light part of all the worke.
There was a blew velvet bed with gold ffringe and very Richly
Embroidered, all the Inside with ovals on the head piece and tester,
where the figures are so finely wrought in Satten stitch it Looks Like
painting. There is also My Ladys appart^t, Severall roomes very Richly
ffurnished and very ffine tapistry with Silver and gold in Most; there
was at Least 4 velvet beds 2 plaine and 2 figured—Crimson—green—Severall
Coullours together in one; Severall Damaske beds and some tissue beds
all ffinely Embroydered. My Ladys Closet is very ffine, the wanscoate of
the best Jappan, the Cushons very Rich Work: there is a great deale of
fine worke under Glasses and a Glass case full of all Sorts of
Curiosityes of Amber stone Currall and a world of fine things. My Lord
Excetter in his travells was for all sorts of Curious things if it Cost
him never so much, and a great many of my Ladyes fine things were given
her by her Mother y^e Countess of Devonshire. There is a Chamber My Lady
used to Lye in in the Winter, a green velvet bed and the hangings are
all Embroydery of her Mothers work very ffine; the Silk Looks very fresh
and ffigures Look naturall.
There is a drawing room by that, w^{ch} has a great Curiosity that my
Lord brought from beyond sea, on the Mantlepiece under a glass; its
nunns work the ffinest Embroidery that it Looks just Like point or the
ffinest Linnen you can see; this Cost a great Sume. There are fine
Chimney pieces of Marble and the windows the same, there are at least 20
rooms very Large and Lofty that are all painted on the top; there are at
Least 20 on y^e other side of the house all w^{th} different ffrett work
on the Ceiling, besides almost as many more roomes that are a building.
Some the floores Not Laid, others Not ffinish’d y^t the house will be a
vast thing w^n done. The floores were Inlaid in severall roomes, the
Chapple is old and not to abide, the painting is good but the place is
not Suteable to any part Else. The great variety of the roomes and ffine
works tooke me up 2 full hours to go from one Roome to another over the
house. The Bowling-green, Wilderness, nor Walke I was not in, being so
great a tract of ground, but you see it all at a view on y^e top of y^e
house; it is Esteemed the ffinest house and scituation that is in
England and will be very Compleate when ffinish’d.
From thence we went to Streton 6 mile, a Little house of one Mr Horsman;
very good Plantations of trees about it—Stone building. Rutlandshire
seems more woody and Inclosed than some others. Thence to Colson where
Lincolnshire Comes in; 2 mile thence towards Lincoln we go on a fine
Champion Country much Like Salisbury plaine, and a Large prospect all
round—at a distance you See woods and towns. This is the best part of
this shire for most part is ffenny, and we went twenty six Miles all on
Such Way quite to Lincoln town. We pass by Grantum which is a good town
16 mile from Lincoln, all built with Stone, but Lies down in a Low
bottom. The Church has a very high Steeple, its Seen above a Great hill
that is by it of a great Length and its a long tyme w^n you see a great
part of the Steeple before you come to see the Church or town it Lies so
in a bottom. Lincoln opens to view at Least 6 miles off; it Stands on a
very high hill and Looks very ffine; at the Entrance the houses Stand
Compact together. The Streetes are but Little but its a vast hill to
ascend into the town where the Minster stands, by that Means its very
perspicious and Eminently in view a great Many Miles off. The tower,
that Great Thoms nest, is 250 steps up, 8 persons may very well Stand up
in the hollow of the bell together, its as much as a man Can Reach to
the top of the bell with his hand when he is in the Inside; its rarely
Ever rung but only by Ringing the Clapper to Each Side w^{ch} we did and
that sounds all over the town. The houses are but small and not lofty
nor y^e Streetes of any breadth. The Sea has formerly Come up to the
town and y^{re} has been very deep water where now great part of y^e
town is built, so y^t what was y^e town formerly is that w^{ch} stands
upon a precipice as it were of a hill. Y^e water is Choake up now and
y^e sea Comes not near in Severall Miles and what water they have is
Called Lincoln Dike—you pass it over on a bridge. We went thence by many
very ffine Seates, we pass by S^r John Brownlows and Severall others;
thence to Newark 12 mile in Nottinghamshire; just by it you see a very
pretty new house of brick building of the Lord Lexingtons, w^{th} the
walls and towers that Looks very Well. Newark is a very neate Stone
built town, the Market place is very Large and Look’d ffine; just by it
is the Great Church w^{ch} is Large and with a very high Spire, there is
prayers twice a day in it. There remaines the holes in the Church walls
that the bullets made which were shott into the town in the Siege Laid
to it by the Parliament army in the Civil warrs: the Castle was then
demolish’d so y^t only the ruinated walls remaine w^{ch} is washed by a
very pretty river. At this we Enter Nottinghamshire and here I met
w^{th} the strongest and best Nottingham ale that Looked very pale but
Exceeding Clear. Thence to Nottingham town, its 12 mile more and we
ffery’d over the Trent w^{ch} in some places is so deep, but waggons and
horses ffords it. I rode along 7 or 8 mile by the Trent w^{ch} is a
ffine River tho’ not so broad as the Thames is at Kingston, but it
look’d very pleasant to Ride by its bancks for so many miles, and on the
other side was a high Ridge of hills shaded over from the top to the
bottom w^{th} fine trees and this for Severall Miles. When on the other
hand you see a vast bottom Called Note Vale, y^e wood belongs to one M^r
Heckam. You pass by severall pretty houses by the river Side, Stone
buildings, good Gardens, and a Little farther you see the Lord Kingstons
house w^{ch} is Contigeous to Nottingham town, called Home Peirpoynt
w^{ch} Looks finely in woods. The town of Nottingham is the neatest town
I have seen, built of stone and delicate, Large and long Streetes much
like London, and y^e houses Lofty and well built. The Market place is
very broad, out of w^{ch} runns a very Large Streete much like Holborn
but the buildings ffine, and there is a Pyaza all along one side of one
of the Streetes, w^{th} Stone pillars for walking that runns the Length
of the Streetes w^{ch} is a mile long. All the Streetes are of a good
size all about y^e town and well pitch’d, there are severall good houses
in the town. There are 3 or 4 Large houses of the Duke of New-Castles
w^{th} the Castle w^{ch} is a fine thing—stands very high on a hill—and
when you Come to the Castle you ascend 40 Steps to the Court and hall.
The roomes are very Lofty and Large, 6 or 7 state roomes and a long
gallery hung with fine Pictures of the ffamily; the wanscoate is most of
Cedar. Some Roomes are hung with good tapistry. The Chamber of State is
hung w^{th} very Rich tapistry so much silver and gold in it that the 3
pieces that hung the Roome Cost 1500^£: the bed was rail’d in as y^e
presence Chamber used to be, y^e bed was damaske. The floore of the
roome was jnlay’d w^{th} Cyphers and the Corronet: here y^e Princess Ann
Lay when she fled in King James’s tyme when the prince of orange was
Coming over. On the Leads you have a very fine prospect of y^e whole
town and river; You see the Earle of Kingstones and S^r Thomas
Willoughby’s fine house on y^e other side of y^e town, and at a distance
we see Beavior Castle the Earle of Rutland’s house, and a prospect more
than 20 mile about, shewing the diversityes of Cultivation and produce
of the Earth. The land is very Rich and fruitfull, so the Green Meadows
w^{th} the fine Corrn ffields w^{ch} seemes to bring forth in handfulls.
They soe most of Barley and have great Encrease, there is all sorts of
Graine besides, and plaines and Rivers and Great woods and Little towns
all in view. They make brick and tile by y^e town—the Manufacture of the
town mostly Consists in weaving of Stockings w^{ch} is a very Ingenious
art. There was a man that spunn glass and made Severall things in
glass—birds and beasts. I spunn some of the glass and saw him make a
swan presently w^{th} divers Coull’d glass; he makes Buttons w^{ch} are
very strong and will not breake. Nottingham is ffamous for good ale, so
for Cellars, they are all dugg out of the Rocks and so are very Coole.
Att y^e Crown Inn is a Cellar of 60 stepps down, all in y^e Rock Like
arch worke over your head: in y^e Cellar I dranke good ale. We were very
well Entertained and very Reasonably att the Blackmoors head; thence we
went to Mansfield 12 mile and pass’d some part of the fine fforest of
Sherwood. Mansfield is a Little Market town built with Stone, there is a
Little river; they make and dye Tammy’s here. There is one pretty Stone
built house just by the water side of 40 Stepps ascent into it. At the
End of the town is an hospital built by a quaker for ancient people, its
a good neat building, they were to have 8 pound a year a piece and the
roomes and Gardens, but its Chiefly for their friends. There is nothing
remarkable here but the dearness of y^e Inns, tho’ in so plentifull a
Country. We went thence to Wursup and went through a parke of y^e Duke
of New-Castles and by his house Calld Welbeake. Ye house is but old and
Low buildings, but the parke is the Noblest wood I Ever saw, fine and
stately Straight. A mile thence is a fine pile of Buildings of Stone
very uniforme and high Called Worsup Mannour built by a Coe heir of the
Devonshire house—3 sisters built 3 noble buildings, this and Ardeck and
Chattsworth. A little beyond this is another Building the remaines of
Worsup Abby. All the way to Blith is a very heavy Sandy Way 12 miles. At
Blith was a very Sweete house and Gardens and Grounds, it was of Brick
work Coyn’d with Stones and the Windows with Stone, all sashes; the
building was so neate and Exact, it was Square w^{th} 4 juttings out at
Each Corner; it Stands high and Commands the Sight of the Country about.
The fine river by it with fish ponds and Meadows and fine woods beyond
makes it look very pleasant. The Gardens are very neate and after the
London Mode, of Gravel and Grass walks and Mount, and the Squaires with
dwarfes and Cyprus, ffirre and all sorts of Greens and fruite trees, its
very ffruitefull—I Eate good fruite there. Its just by the Church so
that a Large Arch w^{ch} did belong to the Church is now made a shady
Seate to the Garden with Greens over it, under w^{ch} is a Sepulchre for
y^e ffamily. It belongs to one M^r Mellish a Merchant in London, its in
all parts a most Compleate thing and its scituation most pleasant.
Almost all y^e road between this and DonCaster is sandy way, to Rosdin 3
mile, thence to DonCaster 6 miles—here Yorkshire beginns and here the
Musick wellcom’d us into Yorkshire. DonCaster is a pretty Large town of
Stone buildings, the streetes are good, there is a handsome Market Cross
advanc’d on 20 steps at Least. The Church is neate and pretty Large,
Severall Little Monuments. This town stands on the River Don, w^{ch}
gives name to the town, here is also a good Large Meeteing place. We
were here the Lord’s day and well Entertained at the Angel. Thence we
went to Wentbridge and pass’d by woods belonging to S^r Wentworth by his
house 7 mile to Wentbridge, where had been a fire the night before
Caused by the Lightening and thunder w^{ch} was remarkably great as we
took notice of, 2 barnes and a house was burnt.
Thence we ascended a very Steepe hill and so to Fferrybridge 3 mile
where we pass’d the fine River Called the Aire, Large for Barges as was
most of those Rivers I have mention’d.
From thence to TodCaster 8 mile, w^{ch} is a very good Little town for
travellers, mostly jnns and little tradesmens houses. This stands on a
very large River Called the Whart. Just before you Come to y^e town
there is some of y^e water w^{ch} on Great raines are not to be
pass’d—it was very deep when I went through. Thence we go much on a
Causey to Yorke 8 miles more, it stands high but for one of the
Metropolis and the see of y^e Archbishopp it Makes but a meane
appearance. The Streetes are Narrow and not of any Length, save one
w^{ch} you Enter of from the bridge that is over the Ouise which Lookes
like a fine River when full after much raine. It is but Low in
Comparison of Some Rivers, it bears Great Barges, it Looks muddy, its
full of good ffish. We Eate very good Cod fish and Salmon and that at a
pretty Cheape rate, tho’ we were not in the best jnn for the Angel is
the best in Cunny Streete. The houses are very Low and as jndifferent as
in any Country town and the Narrowness of y^e Streetes makes it appear
very mean.
Nottingham is so farre before it for its size—its true Nottingham is not
a quarter so bigg, Else y^e Streetes and buildings are so Much Nobler as
Can be jmagin’d; it Lookes better att the approach because you see the
towers off y^e gates and Severall Churches in Compassing y^e Minster and
all y^e Windmills round y^e town of w^{ch} there are many. Y^e River
runns through the town and so its divided, y^e buildings Look No better
than the outskirts off London Wappen &c. The Bridg is fine arches and
built on with houses; the Pavements w^{ch} is Esteem’d the Chiefe part
of town where y^e Market house and town hall stands is so mean that
Southwarke is much before it. There are a Great Many pretty Churches 16
in Number, but the minster is a noble building and holds in view at
Least 30 miles before you Come to it. I saw it and also at y^t distance,
and saw just by it a high hill or ffortification it appeared to be, but
when I Came to York I found it to be only a very high hill w^{th}
stately high trees on it as thick as Could be, a Noble Grove. The
Minster is very Large and fine of Stone, Carv’d all the outside, 3 high
towers above the Leads; I was in one of them, the highest, and it was
262 steps and those very Steep Steps, there is a Gallery round the
middle of the Church about halfe way that goes off these steps of the
tower, where you may go round and Looke down into the body of y^e Church
and y^t was so great a distance that the men and Ladyes that were
Walking below look’d like Pigmyes a very little to us above. On the
Leads of y^e tower Shews a vast prospect of the Country, at Least 30
mile round, you see all over the town y^t Lookes as a building too much
Cluster’d together, y^e Streetes being so narrow—some were pretty Long.
There is another river w^{ch} fills the ditches round the town Called
Ffosse. In the Minster there is the Greatest Curiosity for Windows I
ever saw, they are so large and so Lofty, those in the Quire at y^e End
and on Each side that is 3 storys high and painted very Curious with
History of y^e Bible; the painting is very fine such as was in Kings
Chapple in Cambridge, but the Loftyness of y^e windows is more than I
ever saw any Where Else and by all accounts is peculiar; There is such
another Window at the End of the Cross jsle just by y^e Quire—all y^e
other Windows are of y^e usual Size of other Cathedralls. Ye body of y^e
Church is large and I thinke Larger than any Cathedrall I have seen,
bigger than Winchester Cathedrall. All these Isles are broad the people
of ffashion use them to Walke in and on that account its much [something
left out] they keep it not Cleaner, the Quire has a very good Carving in
Wood about it, there is a very good Organ, the table cloth and Cushons
and books at y^e Comunion table was Crimson velvet and hangings, and its
Embroyder’d very Richly w^{th} gold of a Great depth, and Gold ffringe
at y^e bottom: this was Given y^e Church by Doctor Lamplue y^t was the
Arch-bishop whose Statue is in White Marble in y^e wall w^{th} Mitre and
shepherds Crook. Just by him is ye Effigy of another Bishop Laying along
cut in Stone, and by the aire and Mien he looks more Like a Soldier or
Beau than a Bishop and so it seemes he was in humour. The Embriodery at
the table is almost yard deep, that was given by Lamplue. In the vestry
there is a well of Sweet spring-water called S^t Peter’s well, y^e S^t
of the Church, so it is S^t Peters y^e Cathedrall is. There is a large
hunters horne tipt with Silver and Garnish’d over and Engraved ffinely
all double Gilt w^{th} a Chaine, the same given by a Gentleman that also
gave his Estate to add to the revenues of y^e Church, on a dislike to
disobedient Children; he used the horne When he hunted and drank in it
too. I saw there the ffine tissue Cannopy that was held over the head of
King James the first when he Came into England and y^e head of 2 mace
w^{ch} were Carry’d before him then. There I saw a Chest that was
Triangular fashion, the Shape of y^e Coapes when folded in y^e Middle
and so put into this Chest. The Chapter house is very finely Carv’d and
fine painting on the windows all round, its all arched Stone and
Supported by its own Work haveing no pillars to Rest on, tho’ its Length
and breadth be Equal and at Least 24 ffoot Each. Here was a mint for
Coyning the old money and plaite into new mill’d money; I saw them at
work and Stamp’d one halfe Crown my Self—they dispatch worke very fast
and have Coyn’d Severall 1000_£. I see all parts of the work about y^e
pounding, the boyling, defineing and makeing Barres and Cutting out in
y^e mill and Bakeing and Stamping, all but Milling which art they are
Sworne to keep private.
The Bishops Seate was 4 or 5 mile out of town on the River Ouise. Ffrom
thence we went over a marshy Comon to the Spaw at Marsborough 12 mile;
the town is a pretty stone building, in it a large Market place; there
is a River, the water Looks black, I ffancy it runns off from the Iron
and sulpher mines which Changes the Coull^r;—We pass it over on a large
bridge, tho’ in some places they may ford it, its all on a Rock and the
Sides of the hill by y^e River is all rock and the Little houses are all
built in the Rocks, there is a little Chapple cut out of the Rock and
arch’d and Carved w^{th} ffigures of Saints, I suppose its Called S^r
Robert Chapple he was Esteemed a very devout man, his Effigee is Carv’d
at the Entrance, there is an alter y^t was deck’d w^{th} flowers and the
Ground w^{th} Rushes for y^e devout that did frequent it. Severall
Papists there about and many that Came to y^e Spaw and S^t Mongers well
did say their prayers there. There was a Manuscript w^{th} a long story
of this S^r Robert. There is also the ruines of an abbey where there has
been many bones taken up and some preserv’d as Reliques—there was a
papist Lady Lodg’d where we did and our Land Lady at y^e Inn where we
were treated Civily she told us she went with this Lady among these
ruines where the Lady would say her prayers, and one day some had been
digging and brought up y^e bone of a mans arme and hand and y^e Ligature
of y^e Elbow held y^e bones together w^{ch} by Strikeing Came asunder,
and in y^e hollow part of y^e joynt was a jelly like blood that was
moist, this Lady dipp’d y^e End of her handkerchief in it and so Cut it
off and put it up as a Relique. There are y^e ruinated walls of the
Castle remaines but of no use, but some part is made a prison and some
vaults made Cellars. I dranke very Strong Clear ale in one of those
Cellars.
We were in a very pretty Garden of a Gentlemans of our LandLady Mason’s
acquaintance where was all manner of Curiosityes of fflowers and
Greens—Great variety—there is also a Cherry Garden with Green walkes for
y^e Company to walk in and a Great Seate in a high tree that gives a
pleasant prospect.
From thence we went over to Haragate w^{ch} is just by the Spaw, two
mile further over a Common that belongs to Knarsborough; its all marshy
and wett and here in the Compass of 2 miles is 4 very different springs
of water; there is the Sulpher or Stincking spaw, not Improperly term’d
for the Smell being so very strong and offensive that I could not force
my horse Near the Well; there are two Wells together with basons in them
that the Spring rises up in, which is ffurr’d with a White Scumm which
rises out of the water, if you keep it in a Cup but a few hours it will
have such a white Scumm on it, not withstanding it rises out of y^e
Spring very Cleare and so being a quick Spring itt Soone purges it Self
Cleare againe, it Comes from Brimstone mines, for the taste and smell is
much of Sulpher, tho’ it has an additionall offenciveness Like Carrion.
The Ground is Bitumus or the Like that it runns over, it has a quality
of Changing Silver into y^e Coull^r of Copper and that in a few minutes,
much quicker than the Baths in the West County in Somersetshire. Its a
quick purger and very good for all Scurbutick humours, some persons
drink a quart or two, I dranke a quart in a Morning for two dayes and
hold them to be a good Sort of Purge if you Can hold y^r breath so as to
drinke them down. Within a quarter of a mile is the sweete spaw or
Chalibiet, a Spring which rises off Iron and steele like Astrup or
Tunbridge and Like the German Spaw. This is a quick Spring and the Well
made up with a bason, and a Cover of Stone over it Like an arch; this
opperates as all jron springs does, tho I Could not find them so strong
or spiriteous as those at Tunbridge. One thing I observ’d of the
Stinking spaw tho’ its taste and opperation was like the Somersetshire
bathes, yet this was not warme in the Least as those Bathes are. Just
Between these two spaws is a fine Cleare and sweete Spring of Comon
water very good to wash Eyes and pleasant to Drinke. The ffourth Spring
w^{ch} is but two mile off these is of a petrifying quality turnes all
things into stone. It rises in a banck on y^e top of a hill and so runns
along in a little Channell about a foote over and all the Ground it
runns over is moorish and full of holes with water Standing in it,
w^{ch} stincks just like the Sulpher Spaw and will turn Silver to the
Coullour of Copper as y^t does. Notwithstanding this Clear spring runns
through it with a Swift Current to the brow of y^e hill and then it
spreads it Self all round y^e hill w^{ch} is a Rock, and so runns down
all over the brow of y^e hill Continually, like a Nasty shower of Small
and Great Raine, and so it meetes in y^e bottom and runns all into the
river Knarsborough, and this water as it runns—where it Lyes in the
hollows of y^e Rock does turn moss and wood into Stone or rather Crusts
or Candys wood. I saw some w^{ch} had a perfect Shell of stone about it,
but they tell me it does in tyme penetrate through the Wood. I took Moss
myself from thence which is all Crisp’d and perfect Stone; all the Grass
Straws or any thing that the water falls upon it does Convert to
hardness like Stone. Y^e Whole rock is Continually dropping with water
besides y^e Showering from the top w^{ch} ever runns and this is Called
the dropping well. There is an arbour and y^e Company used to Come and
Eat a Supper there in any Evening to have the pleaseing prospect and the
murmuring Shower to Divert their Eare; in a good Space of tyme it will
harden Ribon Like Stone or any thing Else.
Ffrom Harragate to Cockgrave is 6 mile where is a Spring of exceeding
Cold Water Called S^t Mongers Well; the Story is of a Child y^t was Laid
out in y^e Cold for the parishes Care and when the Church-Wardens found
it they took Care of it—a new born Infant—and when it was baptised they
gave it the Name of “Amongst” because they said the Child must be kept
among them, and as the papist sayes he was an Ingenious Child and so
attained Learning and was a very religious man and used this spring to
wash himself; after sometymes that he had gotten prefferrment and so
grew Rich he walled the Spring about and did many Cures on diseased
bodies by batheing in it, w^{ch} Caused after his death people to
frequent the Well w^{ch} was an Inconveniency to y^e Owners of y^e
ground, and so they forbad people Coming and Stopped up y^e Well; and
the Story sayes on that severall judgments Came on the owners of y^e
Ground and y^e Spring broke up all about his Ground w^{ch} forced him to
open it againe and render it usefull to all that would Come to Washe in
it—thus farre of y^e fable.
Now the Spring is in use and a high wall round it, Y^e Well is about 4
or 5 Yards square and round the brimm is a walke of Broad stone round.
There are 4 or 5 Steps down to the bottom, it is no deeper at Some
places then a Little above y^e Waste, not up to y^e Shoulders of a
woman, and you may kneel on a flatt Stone and it Comes to y^r Chin—this
the papists made use of very much. At one Corner the Springs rise they
are very quick and there is a Sluce that it Continually runns off so as
to keep just at the same depth, and it runns off so fast and y^e Springs
supply so fast that it Clears the Well presently after any body has been
in. I allwayes Chose to be just where y^e springs rise that is much the
Coldest and it throws off anything in the Well to y^e Sluce. Setting
aside y^e papists ffancyes of it I cannot but think it is a very good
Spring being remarkably Cold and just at y^e head of y^e Spring, so its
ffresh w^{ch} must needs be very strengthning; it Shutts up the pores of
y^e body immeadiately, so fortifyes from Cold, you Cannot bear ye
Coldness of it above 2 or 3 minutes and then you Come out and walke
round y^e pavement and then in againe, and so 3 or 4 or 6 or 7 as many
tymes as you please. You go in and out in Linnen Garm^{ts}, some go in
fflannell; I used my bath Garm^{ts} and so pulled them off and put on
flannell when I Came out to go into the bed which is best; but some Came
at a distance—so did I and did not go into bed—but some will keep on
their wet Garments and let them drye to them and say its more
beneficial, but I did not venture it. I dipp’d my head quite over every
tyme I went in and found it Eased a Great pain I used to have in my
head, and I was not so apt to Catch Cold so much as before w^{ch} I
imputed to the Exceeding Coldness of y^e Spring that shutts up the pores
of the body. Its thought it runns off of some very Cold spring and from
Clay. Some of y^e papists I saw there had so much Zeale as to Continue a
quarter of an hour on their knees at their prayers in y^e Well, but none
else Could well endure it so long at a tyme, I went in 7 Severall
seasons and 7 tymes Every Season and would have gone in oftener Could we
have Staid longer. We went back to Harragat 6 mile and then we went to
Burrough Bridge 8 mile—a famous place for Salmon, but then we Could not
meete with any, but we had a very Large Codfish there above a yard long
and more than halfe a yard in Compass very fresh and good and Cost but 8
pence. I saw as big a one bought then for 6 pence and six Crabbs as big
as my two hands, the Least was bigger than one of my fists, all cost but
3 pence. Thence to Harragate 8 mile, then we went and Laid at
Knarsburoughe 2 mile, w^{ch} was nearer to S^t Mungers Well, for we went
it twice from Harragate and back w^{ch} was 12 mile more and found it
too farre to go in an afternoon—from Knarsburough it was but 4 mile; we
went it four tymes and back w^{ch} was 16 miles and we went afterwards
to Harraget 3 tymes and back 12 mile more. From Knarsborough we went to
Rippon a pretty Little market town mostly built of Stone, 8 mile, a
Large Market place with a high Cross of severall Stepps; we were there
the Market day where provisions are very plentifull and Cheape.
In the Market was sold then 2 good Shoulders of veal, they were not very
fatt nor so large as our meate in London but good meate, one for 5^d the
other for 6^d, and a good quarter of Lamb for 9^d or 10^d, and its usual
to buy a very good Shoulder of Veale for 9 pence, and a quarter of Beefe
for 4 shillings; Indeed it is not large ox Beef but good Middling
Beasts: and Craw ffish 2^d a Doz^n—so we bought them.
Notwithstanding this plenty some of y^e Inns are very dear to Strangers
that they Can impose on. The town Stands on a hill and there is a good
large Stone built Church well Carved, they Call it a minster. There is
very fine painting over the alter, it Looks so natural just like Real
Crimson satten with gold ffringe like hangings, and Severall rows of
Pillars in jsles on Either side w^{ch} looks very naturall. There are
two good Bridges to the town, one was a rebuilding, pretty large with
Severall arches Called Hewet bridge—its often out of repaire by reason
of the force of y^e water that Swells after great raines, yet I see they
made works of wood on purpose to breake the violence of y^e Streame and
y^e Middle arche is very Large and high.
There are Severall good houses about y^e town and Severall Gentlemens
Seates about a mile or two distance: 2 mile off is a fine place of S^r
Edw^d Blackets, it looks finely in y^e approach in the Midst of a good
parke, and a River runns just by it, it stands in the middle and has two
Large Gardens on Each side. You Enter one through a Large Iron Barr-gate
painted Green and gold tops and Carv’d in Severall places, this is ffine
Gravel walks between grass plotts 4 Square, with 5 brass Statues Great
and Small in Each square, and full of borders of flowers and Green banks
with flower potts. On y^e other side of y^e house is just such a Garden,
only the walkes are all grass rowl’d and the Squares are full of dwarfe
trees, both ffruites and green, set Cross wayes w^{ch} Lookes very
finely. There is a flower Garden behind y^e house; in it and beyond it a
Landry Close, with frames for drying of Cloths, walled in. There are
good Stables and Coach house and all the offices are very
Convenient—very good Cellars all arch’d, and there I dranke small beer
four years old not too Stale, very Clear good Beer well brew’d. Their
kitching, pastry and pantry &c all very Convenient; in y^e pantry hangs
a picture of y^e dimentions of a large ox y^t was fed in these grounds
w^{th} y^e accò of its weight. Y^e Quarters was 106 Stone 1^£ and y^e
hide was 12 stone and 8 pound, the tallow was 19 stone, the head 4
stone, y^e Legs and feate weigh’d 3 stone 11^£. This Gentleman breeds
and feeds much Cattle in his grounds and has one of y^e largest Beeves
in England.
his house is built with bricke and Coyn’d w^{th} stone w^{th} a flatt
Roofe Leaded, w^{th} railes and Barristers, and a large Cupilow in y^e
middle—you may see a Greate way round y^e Country. Y^e ffront Entrance
is 3 gates of Iron Barres and spikes, painted blew with gold tops, and
brick work between y^e gates and pillars with stone tops Carv’d Like
flower potts; y^e pillars all Coyn’d with Stone. Y^e Middle gate is made
large in a Compass like a halfe Moone.
There are four more spaces in the wall open with Iron barres and
spikes, 2 of w^{ch} are in each side into y^e Gardens, and answers two
Like them on the other side of the Gardens. The two other are Less and
are at y^e End of a terrass walk just along y^e Entrance w^{ch} you
ascend by Steps from the Middle gate; they are all adorned with brick
pillars Coyn’d w^{th} stone and Stone heads—these are all painted blew
and gold tipps. From the Terrass you have a Court y^t Leads into y^e
middle of y^e house into a large hall; over y^e doore at y^e Entrance is
a fine Carving of stone w^{th} Leaves and flowers with fine stone
pillars, and y^e Armes Cutt finely, there is a fine dyal and Clock above
all. The hall you Enter is of a very good size and height. 2 dineing
roomes and drawing roomes, one for the Summer with a marble floore, 6 or
7 Chambers off a good size and lofty, so y^e most of y^e beds were two
foote too low w^{ch} was pitty they being good beds, one was Crimson
ffigured velvet, 2 damaske beds, the rest moehaire and Cambet. Y^e
roomes were mostly wanscoated and painted. Y^e best roome was painted
just like marble—few roomes were hung. The ffurniture was very neately
kept and so was the whole house, the roofe of y^e Staires was finely
painted, there was Severall pictures but not Set up the house being in
mourning for his Lady, and her mother the Lady Yorke, w^{ch} dyed in a
month or two of Each other. She left S^r Edward 10 Children, he has a
great state and will have the 2000 P ^{an} fall to him that is Lady Mary
Ffenwichs anuity. he was a merchants son at Bristol. The house is served
with water by pipes into a Cistern into y^e Garden, Cellars and all
offices. This was the ffinest house I saw in Yorkshire. We returned to
Knarsborough 9 mile and from thence we went to York againe 12 mile, this
was y^e worst Rideing in Yorkshire, then we passed thro’ York town by
another gate towards Hull, and y^t Streete was Larger and better
buildings than what I saw before in Yorke, and here we pass over the
muddy River, Called the muddy Ffosse. We passed over the river Derwent
that runns through the middle of Derbyshire to Born Bridge 9 mile,
Whitten 6 miles a Little neate Thatch’d town of a mile long where we
Lay, and passed by Burlington Lord Cliffords house that stood in a
bottom amongst trees and Look’d well, and they Say is well painted and
good ffurniture, but I saw not y^e Inside, only pass’d by it. There we
had a very Large Salmon that Cost and y^e sauce but 18^d, it was very
ffresh and good and above 3 quarters of a yard long. Thence to Beverly 9
miles w^{ch} is a very fine town for its size, its prefferable to any
town I saw but Nottingham. There are 3 or 4 Large Streetes well pitch’d
bigger than any in York, the other Lesser Streets about y^e town being
Equal with them. The Market Cross is Large, there are 3 markets, one for
beasts another for Corne and another for ffish, all Large, the town is
Serv’d with Water by wells walled up round or rather in a Square, above
halfe ones length, and by a pully and weight letts down or draws up the
Buckat w^{ch} is Chained to y^e beame of y^e pully. There are many of
these wells in all the streetes it seemes its in Imitation of Holland,
they being supply’d with water soe. The buildings are new and pretty
Lofty, the Minster has been a ffine building all stone, Carv’d on the
outside w^{th} ffigures and Images, and more than 100 pedastalls that
remaine where Statues has stood of angels and the like. The wood worke
in the quire is very ffine. Just by the Comunion table is the Sanctuary
or place of Refuge where Criminalls flee for Safety—its a Seate of Stone
work Cut all in one.
Earle of Northumberland’s and Lady’s Monuments—his is very plaine, only
a marble Stone raised up with Stone about 2 yards high; his Name, by
means of his great atchievments in the Barrons warre, great Percy Earle
of Northumberland, is monument Enough to posterity. His tombe was a
little fallen in and a hole So bigg as many put their hands in and
touch’d the body w^{ch} was much of it Entire of y^e bonds; the Skull
was whole and the teeth firme, tho’ of so many yeares standing. The
Countess’s monument is very fine, its made of y^e same free stone y^e
Church is built w^{th}, but so finely polished y^t it looks like Marble,
and Carv’d w^{th} figures, birds leaves, flowers, beasts and all sorts
of things and y^e armes is Cutt out in severall places all about it; the
top of the arch is one Entire Stone as much as one Can Grasp and its all
finely Carv’d w^{th} all sorts of Curiosityes and adorn’d with Gilding
and painting.
There are 4 good monuments all of marble of y^e Wharton ffamily. In the
middle of y^e Church is y^e tomb of S^t John with a brass Inscription on
y^e pavement, and at a little distance they shew’d us the wearing of y^e
pavement with y^e obeisance of his votarys, this being S^t John of
Beverly. At the End of y^e Church is y^e ffont, y^e upper part of it,
that is the bason was of one Entire marble of a Darke Coullour. Y^e
Cover was Carv’d Exactly and of a Piramidy fform and very high. There is
another Church Called S^t Mary’s y^t is very large and good I thought
that had been the Minster at first Entrance of y^e town; there is the
prayers Everyday and its used on all accounts and so the other is
neglected. This has a quire in which they were preaching w^n we were
there. There is a very good free schoole for boys, they say y^e best in
England for Learning and Care w^{ch} makes it fill’d with Gentlemens
Sons besides the free Schollars from all parts—provision being very
Cheape here. I was offered a large Codffish for a shilling and good
Pearch very Cheape, we had Crabbs bigger than my two hands pence apiece
w^{ch} would have Cost 6 pence if not a shilling in London and they were
very sweete. From thence we went to Hull 6 mile all upon a Caussey
secured w^{th} two little rivers running on Each Side w^{ch} is used to
flow over their grounds it being a Great fflatt severall miles, and the
meadows are Cloth’d w^{th} good Grass by y^t means. The river Hull runns
from Beverly at the town End, just by y^e Minster you Cross it, this
runns to Hull, y^e town is properly Called so from that River, but its
name is Kingston on y^e Hull, being built on y^t River w^{ch} runns into
y^e Humber w^{ch} is a noble River—y^e mouth of it opens just ag^{st}
this town. The buildings of Hull are very neate good streets, its a good
tradeing town by means of this great River Humber y^t Ebbs and flows
Like the Sea, and is 3 or 4 mile over at y^e Least; it runns 20 mile
hence into y^e Sea and takes in all y^e great Rivers—y^e Trent Ouise,
Aire, Don, y^e Derwent and y^e Hull, and Carries much water that a man
of warre of all sorts Can Ride. I was on board a new man of warre y^t
belonged to the town and Called y^e Kingston, it was but small, well
Compact for provision and was built fit for swift saileing. The Humber
is very salt, allwayes it rowles and tosses just like y^e Sea, only y^e
soile being Clay turnes y^e Water and waves yellow and soe it differs
from y^e Sea in Coullour, not Else—its a hazardous water by reason of
many shoares y^e tides meete. I was on it a pretty way and it seemes
more turbulent than y^e Thames at Gravesend.
We enter y^e town of Hull from y^e Southward over two drawbridges and
gates, there is the Same Entrance in another part of y^e town by 2 gates
and 2 drawbridges from Holderness, and so y^e ditches are round y^e town
to y^e Landward, and they Can by them floate y^e grounds for 3 mile
round w^{ch} is a good ffortification. The Garrison and plattforme
w^{ch} is the ffortification to y^e Sea is in a very uniforme ffigure
and were it ffinished is thought it would be the ffinest ffortification
that Could be seen—its wall’d and pallisadoed. I walked round it, and
viewed it and when I was on y^e water, it seemes to runn a great Length
and would require many Soldiers to deffend y^e halfe moons and workes.
In the town there is an hospitall y^{ts} Called y^e Trinity house, for
Seamens widdows, 30 is their Completm^t, their allowance 16^d p^r weeke
and ffewell, they have a little Chapple to it for prayers; over this
building is a large roome for Cordage and sailes, where they make them
and keep their Stores. In the middle of this roome there hangs a Canoe
to y^e Roofe of y^e Roome just bigg Enough for one man to sit in, and
the Effigie of a man that was taken w^{th} it, all his Cloths Cap and a
Large bag behind him where in his ffish and provision were, these were
all made of y^e skin of ffishes and were y^e same w^{ch} he wore when
taken, y^e forme of his face is only added and just resemble y^e wild
man that they took, for so the Inscription Calls him, or y^e bonny boate
man; he was taken by Cap^{tn} Baker and there are his oars and spear y^t
was with him—this is all written on y^e boat to perpetuate y^e memory of
it; he would not speak any Language or word to them y^t took him nor
would he Eate, so in a few dayes died. There is a good large Church in
Hull. You Enter a large jsle just in the Middle that runns quite aCross
through the Church, and divides the body of the Church w^{th} y^e pulpet
and pews on one Side with a partition of wood Carv’d, and on the other
side was such another partition for y^e Chancell, and I observ’d there
their alter stood tablewise for y^e Comunion just in the middle of y^e
Chancell, as it was in the primitive tymes before Popery Came in. There
was Severall Little monuments of marble in y^e walls. Ffrom thence to
Beverly againe 6 mile w^{ch} is all a flatt, thence to Brance Burton 8
mile, all likewise on a Levell w^{ch} they Call Loughs. Here we Could
get no accomodation at a Publick house, it being a Sad poore thatch’d
place and only 2 or 3 Sorry Alehouses, no lodgings but at y^e hall house
as it was Called Where liv’d a Quaker w^{ch} were Sufficient people. The
rooms were good old rooms being y^e Lord of the mannours house—these
were but tennants—but did Entertain us kindly, made two good beds for us
and also for our Servants, and good bread and Cheese, bacon and Eggs.
Thence we went to Agnes-Burton 7 mile, the miles are long and so they
are in most part of these Northern County’s. This is the East Rideing of
Yorkshire and we saw y^e Session house at Beverly for this Rideing.
Agnes Burton is a Seate of S^r Griffith Boyntons, Grandson to S^r
ffrancis w^{ch} married my father’s Sister one of William Lord Viscount
Say and Seales Daughters.
It looks finely In the approach. A mile or two off we pass by another of
his houses w^{ch} is newer built and very good Gardens, Called
Barmstone,—we Eate some of y^e good ffruite. The house is all built with
Bricks and so good Bricke that at 100 years standing no one Brick is
faulty; it stands on a pretty ascent. We Enter under a Gate-house built
w^{th} 4 large towers into a Court which is large, in y^e middle is a
Bowling green palisado’d round, and y^e Coaches runns round it to the
Entrance w^{ch} is by 10 stepps up to a Tarress, and thence a pav’d
walke to y^e house. Cut box and ffilleroy and Lawrell about y^e Court.
The ffront Looks very uniform with severall round buildings on each side
answerring Each other with Compass windows, and y^e middle is a Round
building, and y^e door Enters in in y^e side of y^t tower w^{ch} was y^e
old fashion in Building and is like my brother Say’s house at Broughton.
Out of an Entry you Come into a very Lofty good hall, y^e Screen at the
Lower End (w^{ch} divides it from y^e Entry) is ffinely Carv’d, the
parlour and drawing roome are well proportion’d roomes, and y^e
wanscoate is all well Carv’d, y^e moldings of y^e doores and Chimneys
are finely Carv’d w^{th} Staggs and all sorts of beasts, woods and some
leaves and flowers and birds and angells &c. There is beyond this a very
good little parlour w^{th} plaine wanscoate painted in veines like
marble, dark and white Streakes. There is a very good dineing roome over
this and 5 very good Chambers some well ffurnished, all very neate and
Convenient w^{th} Closetts to their own apartments and Anty roomes.
There is much of y^e Same ffine Carving in the dineing roome, the
Chambers are all wanscoated and Carv’d, there is a noble gallery over
all, with large windows on y^e sides and at Each End painted very
Curiously, out of w^{ch} you view the whole Country round and discover
the shipps under saile though at a good distance. The Gardens are large
and are Capable of being made very ffine—they now remaine in the old
ffashion. There is gravell walks and grass and Close walks, there is one
walke all y^e Length of the Garden Called the Crooked walke, of grass
well Cutt and rowled, it is indented in and out in Corners, and so is
the wall w^{ch} makes you thinke you are at y^e End off the walke
Severall tymes before you are, by means of y^e Codling hedge that is on
the other side. This Leads you to a summer house that also opens to a
large gravell walke that runns the breadth of y^e Garden to the house
ward. From Agnes Burton we went to Scarborough 14 mile. We pass’d from
this flatt to Boynton, thence ascended the wouls or high hills so Called
in this County, and it prov’d misty w^{ch} made our observations to be
fixed on it that the mist was thicker and more held in those high wouls
as raine or mist is in thick trees, so y^e mist was much more there than
in y^e plaine, so thick in some you Could not see the top. We descended
these high wouls by a steep and hazardous precipice on one Side and y^e
way narrow.
Scarbrough is a very pretty Sea-port town built on the Side of a high
hill. The Church Stands in the most Eminent place above all y^e town and
at Least 20 Steps you ascend up into y^e Churchyard. The ruines of a
Large Castle remaines, the Walls in Compass Severall acres of ground y^t
feeds many beasts and milch Cows. Y^e hill on w^{ch} the Castle Stands
is very Steep and Severall trenches over one another, round the walls
all one Side of the Castle Stands out to the sea shore a good Length.
Its open to the Main ocean and to secure the harbour there is a mole or
halfe moone, two, one within y^e other something resembling the Cobb at
Lime in Sommersetshire. The sea when the tide is in is Close up to the
town and the bottom of a Ridge of hills that runns from the town 5 or 6
mile in a Compass. When its Ebb water it Leaves y^e shore 400 yards all
a flatt, and such good sand, as you presently walke on it without
Sinking, y^e Sand is so smooth and firme, and so you may walke 5 or 6
mile on the Sand round by y^e ffoote of this Ridge of hills, w^{ch} is
the poynt by w^{ch} all the Shipps pass that go to NewCastle or that
way. I see 70 saile of shipps pass the point and so Come onward at some
Distance off from the Castle, Supposed to be Colliers and their Convoys.
On this Sand by the Sea shore is y^e Spaw well w^{ch} people frequent,
and all the diversion is y^e walking on this sand twice a day at y^e Ebb
of the tide and till its high tide and then they drink. Its something
from an Iron or Steele minerall but by means of the tide flowing on it
Every tyme. Especially spring tydes it Covers y^e well quite—and
allwayes flowes up just to it, w^{ch} Leaves a brackish and saltness
w^{ch} makes it purge pretty much, but they say y^e Spring is so quick
that it soone Casts off y^e Sea water; but in my opinion is y^t the
whole spring and all the Springs that Bubble up all over the sands must
be agreable and of the sort of water the sea is, being so just on the
sea side and so neare must be Influenc’d by y^e salt water. It seems to
be a pretty turbulent Sea, I was on it in a little boate but found it
very rough even just in y^e harbour, I suppose the Cause may be from
standing so open to y^e Maine. The town has abundance of Quakers in it,
most of their best Lodgings were In quakers hands, they Entertain all
people, soe in Private houses in the town by way of ordinary, so much a
Meale and their Ale. Every one finds themselves—there are a few Inns for
horses only. I was at a quakers meeteing in the town where 4 men and 2
women spoke one, after another had done, but it seem’d such a Confusion
and so inCoherent that it very much moved my Compassion and pitty to see
their delusion and Ignorance and no less Excited my thankfullness for
the Grace of God that upheld others from such Errors. I observ’d their
prayers were all made on the first person and single, though before the
body of people; it seems they allow not of ones being the mouth of y^e
Rest in prayer to God tho’ it be in the publick meetings. In this town
we had good accomodations and on very Reasonable terms. They drye a
large ffish Like Codlings and salt them and when you dress them, water
them; then they string them on wire, and so Rost them before the fire
and make good sauce for them, they Eate very well and as tender as a
fresh Codling and very sweete iff they were well cured when they were
first taken, Else they will taste stronge.
Thence we went to Maulton 14 miles w^{ch} is a pretty large town built
of Stone but poor; there is a large market place and severall great
houses of gentlemens round the town. There was one M^r Paumes that
marry’d a relation of mine Lord Ewers Coeheiress who is landlady of
almost all y^e town. She has a pretty house in the place. There is the
ruins of a very great house w^{ch} belonged y^e family but they not
agreeing about it Caused y^e defaceing of it. She now makes use of y^e
roomes off y^e outbuildings and gate house for weaving and Linning
Cloth, haveing set up a manuffactory for Linnen w^{ch} does Employ many
poor people. She supply’d me w^{th} very good beer, for y^e Inn had not
the best. Thence to York 14 miles, and so to Tadcaster 8 mile, thence to
Aberfford 4 miles all on a heavy bottom, their miles are long and I
observe the ordinary people both in these parts of Yorkshire and in the
northern parts Can scarce tell you how farre it is to the next place
unless it be in the great towns, and there in their publick houses, and
they tell you its very good yate Instead of Saying it is good way, and
they Call their gates yates, and do not Esteem it uphill unless so steep
as a house or precipice; they say its good levell gate all along when it
maybe there are Severall great hills to pass, but this account did
Encrease on us the nearer we Came to Darbyshire, but in Generall they
Live much at home and scarce Ever go 2 or 10 mile from thence Especially
the women, so may be term’d good housekeepers. To Aberford we Came by
severall pretty Seates in view, we Lay at an acquaintances house M^{rs}
Hickeringalls: thence we went to Castleton Bridge 5 mile, where was a
glass house; we saw them blowing white glass and neale it in a large
oven by the heate of y^e ffurnace. All the Country is full of Coale and
the pitts are so thick in y^e roade that it is hazardous to travell for
strangers.
Thence to Pomffret 3 miles w^{ch} Looks very finely in the approach. Its
built on a hill all of stone, its a very neate building and y^e streets
well pitch’d and broad, the houses well built and looks more stately
than any in York, only its not the tenth part so bigg, its a neate
little town as I have seen. there are severall very good houses in it,
one Doct^r Burgess has built a very good house w^{ch} is Call’d his
ffolly. There is a noble house at the Entrance of the town of y^e Lady
Grace Perpoynt, and good Parke Gardens and walks and a great revenue
belonging to it,—the Daughter of the Marquis of Dorchesters. There is a
ffine Church in the town and as spacious a market place as is at
Salisbury or as you shall see any where, and the building so Even and
uniforme as well as Lofty that it appears very magnificent—its a Major
town. We were in the Chief Inn the Sunn, tho’ there are many good Inns,
but this was a very good Genteel jnn and it happen’d the Landlord was
then Major of y^e town.
Provisions are very Easy here, we had 2 or 3 pound of Codffish for a
small matter and it was a Large dish. Y^e town is full of Great Gardens
walled in all round on y^e outside of the town, on the Edge of y^e hill
so the Gardens runns down a great way, you descend with them by severall
stepps. Its a fruitfull place, fine flowers and trees with all sorts of
fruite, but that w^{ch} is mostly jntended is the Encreasing of
Liquorish w^{ch} y^e Gardens are all filled with, and any body that has
a Little ground improves it for the produce of Liquorish of w^{ch} there
is vast quantetyes, and it returns severall 100 pounds yearly to the
towns. The Leafe is not much unlike a Rose Leafe but some w^t narrower
and Longer, the Coullour is something a Yellower Green, Else the
branches grow Like it w^{th} double Leaves on a Stalke and severall all
down y^e Stalke, somewhat in the manner of Caliceily or Solomons Seale
and much of that smoothness of Leafe. Thence to Hemsworth 4 mile where
we Could meet w^{th} no Lodging, only Little ale houses to give one a
pot of beere, and so we went 2 mile ffarther but found it y^e same and
it being too farre to reach Rotheram we made use of ye hospitallity of a
Clergyman one M^r Fferrer w^{ch} was a very Genteele man and gave us a
Civil Entertainm^t and good beds—he has a very good house and Genteely
ffitted good Hall and parlour, and the Garden very neate. Its a very
ffruitfull Country w^{ch} Encourages jndustry and there is plenty of
Stone Like free Stone w^{ch} makes ffine houses and walls. Thence to
Rotheram 12 miles, its most in a deep Clay ground and now the wayes are
more difficult and narrow. Rotheram is a good market town well built all
of stone. The Church stands high in y^e middle of the town and Looks
finely, its all Stone and Carv’d very well all the out side. Thence to
Ackington 8 mile, a very Little place its 3 mile from Shellton town, but
that was thought out of our way, so we Lay here in a poor Sorry Inn.
There was one good bed for us Gentlewomen. Its a pretty Long Parish and
through it runns a Water which Came down a great banck at the End of y^e
town like a precipice with such violence y^t it makes a great noise, and
looks Extreamely Cleare in the Streame that gushes out and runns along:
it runns on off a deep yellow Coullour, they say it runns off of a
poisonous mine or Soile and from Coale pitts; they permit none to taste
it for I sent for a Cup of it and y^e people in y^e Streete Call’d out
to forbid y^e tasteing it, and it will beare no Soape so its useless.
Here we Entred Darbyshire and went to Chesterffield 6 mile, and Came by
y^e Coale mines where they were digging. They make their mines at y^e
Entrance Like a Well and so till they Come to y^e Coale, then they digg
all the Ground about where there is Coale and set pillars to support it,
and so bring it to y^e well where by a basket Like a hand barrow by
Cords they pull it up—so they Let down and up the miners with a Cord.
Chesterffield Looks Low when you approach it from the Adjacent hill
w^{ch} you descend, but then you ascend another to it. The Coale pitts
and quaraes of stone are all about, Even just at y^e town End, and in
the town its all built of stone. Y^e Church stands in a place of
Eminency, the town Looks well, the Streets good, y^e Market very Large.
It was Satturday w^{ch} is their market day and there was a great Market
Like some little ffaire, a great deale of Corne and all sorts of ware
and ffowles there. I bought my self 2 very good ffatt white (pullings as
they Call them) pullets for 6 pence both, and I am sure they were as
Large and as good as would have Cost 18 pence if not 2 shill^s a piece
in London—so said all my Company. In this town is y^e best ale in the
Kingdom Generally Esteem’d. All Derbyshire is full of Steep hills and
nothing but the peakes of hills as thick one by another is seen in most
of y^e County w^{ch} are very steepe, w^{ch} makes travelling tedious
and y^e miles Long. You see neither hedge nor tree but only Low drye
stone walls round some ground Else its only hills and Dales as thick as
you Can Imagine, but tho’ the Surface of y^e Earth Looks barren yet
those hills are impregnated w^{th} Rich marble stone metals, Iron and
Copper and Coale mines in their bowells, from whence we may see the
wisdom and benignitye of o^{er} greate Creator to make up the
Defficiency of a place by an Equivolent, and also the diversity of the
Creation w^{ch} Encreaseth its Beauty. We go from Chesterffield to y^e
Duke of Devonshires house and ascend a high hill at Least two or three
miles Long, we pass’d by a Cavity in one great Banck or Rock Called
Stonidge Hall all stone of about 12 yards long and about 4 or 5 broad,
its all Rock like an arch on y^e Roofe but its not ffenc’d so but y^e
beasts trample and ffowle it you Can scarce go into it. The same long
steep hill we had to descend w^{ch} Comes to Chattsworth ten mile. The
Duke’s house Lyes just at y^e foote of this steepe hill w^{ch} is like a
precipice just at y^e Last, notwithstanding the Dukes house stands on a
little riseing ground from y^e River Derwent w^{ch} runns all along y^e
front of y^e house, and by a Little fall made in y^e water w^{ch} makes
a pretty Murmurring noise. Before y^e gate there is a Large parke and
Severall ffine Gardens one w^{th} out another w^{th} Gravell walkes and
Squairs of Grass w^{th} stone statues in them, and in y^e middle of Each
Garden is a Large ffountaine full of Images, sea gods and Dolphins and
sea horses w^{ch} are full of pipes w^{ch} spout out water in the bason
and spouts all about the Gardens. 3 gardens just round the house. Out of
two of y^e Gardens you ascend by Severall Stepps into other Gardens
w^{ch} some have Gravell walks and squares Like y^e other w^{th} Statues
and Images in the bason. There is one bason in the Middle of one Garden
thats very Large and by sluces besides the Images Severall pipes plays
out y^e water—about 30 Large and small pipes altogether, some fflush it
up that it ffrothes Like snow. There is one Garden full of stone and
brass statues. So the Gardens Lyes one above another w^{ch} makes the
prospect very fine. Above these gardens is an ascent of 5 or 6 stepps up
to green walk and groves of firrs and a wilderness and Close arbours and
shady walks. On Each End of one Walke stands two piramidies full of
pipes spouting water that runns down one of them—runns on brass hollow
work w^{ch} looks like rocks and hollow stones.
Y^e other is all fflatts, stands one above another like Salvers so the
water rebounds one from another 5 or 6 one above the Other. There is
another green walke and about y^e Middle of it by y^e Grove stands a
fine Willow tree, the Leaves, Barke and all looks very naturall, y^e
roote is full of rubbish or great stones to appearance and all on a
Sudden by turning a sluce it raines from Each Leafe and from the
branches like a shower, it being made of Brass and pipes to Each Leafe,
but in appearance is Exactly like any Willow. Beyond this is a bason in
w^{ch} are y^e branches of two Artichock Leaves w^{ch} weeps at y^e End
of Each Leafe into the bason w^{ch} is placed at y^e foote of Lead steps
30 in number. The Lowest step is very deep, and between Every 4 stepps
is a half pace all made of Lead and are broad on Each side. On a little
banck stands blew balls 10 on a side, and between Each ball are 4 pipes
w^{ch} by a sluce spouts out water aCross y^e stepps to Each other like
an arbour or arch. While you are thus amused suddenly there runs down a
torrent of water out of 2 pitchers in y^e hands of two Large nimphs Cut
in stone that Lyes in the upper step w^{ch} makes a pleaseing prospect.
This is designed to be Enlarged and Steps made up to y^e top of y^e hill
w^{ch} is a vast ascent, but ffrom y^e top of it now they are Supply’d
w^{th} water for all their pipes so it will be the Easyer to have such a
fall of water Even from y^e top w^{ch} will add to the Curiositye. The
house is built all of Stone y^t is dugg out of the hills, its like free
stone—a flatt Roofe w^{th} Barristers and flower potts. In the ffront is
7 large windows, the glass is diamond Cutt and all off large Looking
glass, y^e panes bigg 4 in a breadth 7 in height, to the Garden ward was
12 windows of y^e same glass 4 panes broad 8 long, y^e Lowest windows
are made w^{th} Grates before them and are for birds—an Averye—and so
looking glass behind. Y^e stepps out of y^e Garden are on Either side 20
steps and Iron barrs painted blew and tipt w^{th} gold. Y^e steps meete
on y^e top in a halfe pace railed y^e same, but y^e front entrance is
not finished; there is a large Court w^{ch} is to be pas’d and so stepps
on Each side of stone w^{th} half paces up to a tarrass walke. Y^e large
gates of jron barrs are 3 at y^e Court and from this tarress you Enter.
The ffront is w^{th} Severall Large stone pillars Carv’d, at y^e
Entrance into another Court w^{ch} y^e house is built about, and here
are peaso’s supported w^{th} stone pillars, under w^{ch} you pass from
one place to another. Out of it is y^e Chappel w^{ch} is a very lofty
building and supported by 4 large pillars of black marble, two at y^e
alter, 2 just at y^e bottom to support y^e gallery for y^e Duke and
Dutches to sitt in. Y^e pillars are 14 foote, and so bigg that I could
not Compass one w^{th} my arms. These 4 and 2 stepps by y^e alter was
made out of one stone Cut out of y^e hill just by, so is all y^e marble
about the house and so finely polish’d like a Looking glass; the pavem^t
is black and white marble vein’d, Lay’d long wayes in large stones all
of y^e same. Y^e painting is very fine, on the top and on the sides y^e
history of Christ and y^e New testament. There is a very fine Carving of
wood and Stone, the Dove at the alter y^e Angels and Cherubims w^{th}
flowers, Leaves Laurell &c. &c. very Curiously Carv’d. The hall is very
Lofty, painted top and Sides with armory and there is 18 steps on Each
side goes up as an arch, w^{th} Iron Barristers tipt w^{th} gold w^{ch}
Meetes on y^e top Large steps of stone. Thence you Enter a dineing
roome, two drawing roomes, a bed Chamber and Closet w^{ch} opens quite
thro’ the house a visto, and at the End of the dineing roome is a Large
door all of Looking glass in great pannells all diamond Cutt. This is
just opposite to y^e doores that runs into y^e drawing roome and bed
Chamber and Closet so it shews y^e roomes to Look all double. Ye
ffloores of y^e Roomes are all finely Inlaid, there is very Curious
Carving over and Round the Chimney pieces, and Round the Looking-glasses
that are in y^e peers between the windows, and fine Carv’d shelves or
stands on Each side of y^e glass. Every roome is differing work and all
fine Carving and over y^e doores some of it is of y^e Natural Coull^r of
y^e wood and varnish’d only—others painted. Ye Dutchess’s Closet is
wanscoated w^{th} y^e hollow burnt japan, and at Each Corner are peers
of Looking glass; over the Chimney is Looking glass an oval and at the 4
Corners after this figure ⌘, and hollow Carving all round y^e glass. The
roomes are all painted very finely on y^e top; all y^e windows y^e
Squares of glass are so large and good they Cost 10s. a pannell. There
was sweete tapistry hangings with small figures and very much silk, they
Look’d as ffresh as if new tho’ bought severall yeares—there were no
beds up. There was as many roomes on the other side w^{ch} were not
ffinished, they were just painting y^e Ceilings and Laying the floores
w^{ch} are all jnlaid, these were the Duke and dutchess’s apartm^{ts}
besides which are a great number of roomes and severall offices. There
is a fine Grottoe all stone pavement Roofe and sides, this is design’d
to supply all y^e house w^{th} water besides severall ffanceyes to make
diversion. Within this is a batheing roome, y^e walls all w^{th} blew
and white marble—the pavement mix’d, one stone white, another black,
another of y^e Red vaned marble. The bath is one Entire marble all white
finely veined w^{th} blew and is made smooth, but had it been as finely
pollish’d as some it would have been the finest marble that Could be
seen. It was as deep as ones middle on the outside, and you went down
steps into y^e bath big enough for two people. At y^e upper End are two
Cocks to let in one hott, y^e other Cold water to attemper it as persons
please—the Windows are all private Glass. The Gallery we ascended out of
y^e hall into before we Came to y^e dineing roome, w^{ch} I should have
spoken off then, was delicately painted over head, and Round on the top
was a raile and Barristers so naturally drawn just round the Cornish,
that you would take it for a Railed walke round y^e top to looke down
into the gallery, There is another ffine staircase all stone and hangs
on it self on y^e outside, y^e support is from y^e wall and its own
building. Ye stone of y^e half paces are large and one Entire stone
makes Each. On the top of y^e Staires y^e space Leading to y^e roomes
are 3 large Stones, the Stones Cost 20^£ a piece, so large and thick you
would wonder how they should be raised up so high and be supported by
its own arch without any pillars on y^e outside. This is all of Stone
Cut out of y^e hills w^{ch} Looks like what we Call free stone. Y^e
house is all off the same and all the marble in y^e Windows, Chimneys
and pavements is all marble dug out of the hill above the house, both
black, white rance, and Curiously veined and polished, so fine as any I
ever saw w^{ch} Came from beyond sea. Thence we came to Bankwell a
pretty neate market town 2 mile; it Stands on a hill, yet you descend a
vast hill to it w^{ch} you would thinke impossible to go down, and we
was forced to fetch a Great Compass, and by reason of y^e steepness and
hazard of y^e wayes if you take a wrong Way there is no passing. You are
forced to have guides as in all parts of Darbyshire, and unless it be a
few y^t use to be guides y^e Common people know not above 2 or 3 mile
from their home, but they of y^e Country will Climbe up and down w^{th}
their horses those steep precipices. There are many fine springs of
water purling out of y^e Rock on these hills. At Bankwell there was an
Excellent Minister in y^e Publick who pray’d and preach’d very seriously
and his Life and Conversation is suitable, not very frequent in our
dayes to be found.
We went 3 mile off in the afternoone to heare another y^t was in a
meeteing and so 3 mile home againe. Y^e hills about y^e town and all
about y^e town is rocks of y^e finest marble of all sorts—huge Rock. I
took some of it and shewing it to severall they think it Comparable to
any beyond sea. Thence to Haddon Hall for so all y^e great houses are
called, as Chatsworth Hall, so this Haddon Hall the Earle of Rutlands
house 2 mile from Bankwell; its a good old house all built of stone on a
hill and behind it is a ffine grove of high trees and good Gardens, but
nothing very Curious as y^e mode now is. There is a large Parke upon a
great ascent from y^e house which is built round a Court, y^e parke is
one part of some of y^e highest hills w^{ch} gives a great prospect over
y^e Country. But Indeed all Darbyshire is but a world of peaked hills,
which from some of y^e highest you discover y^e Rest Like steeples or
tops of hills as thick as Can be, and tho’ they appear so Close yet y^e
steepness down and up takes up y^e tyme, y^t you go it as if so many
Miles, and were y^e ground measur’d would be in Length as much as miles
on a plaine. Thence to Buxton 9 mile over those Craggy hills Whose
Bowells are full of mines of all kinds off Black and white and veined
Marbles, and some have mines of Copper, others tinn and Leaden mines, in
w^{ch} is a great deale of silver. I have some w^{ch} Looks full of
silver, its so bright just brought up out of one of y^e mines. They digg
down their mines Like a well for one man to be let down w^{th} a Rope
and pulley, and so when they find oar they keep digging under ground to
follow the oar w^{ch} lies amongst the stone y^t Lookes like our fine
stones. In y^t mine I saw there was 3 or 4 at work and all let down
thro’ y^e well; they digg sometymes a great way before they Come to oar.
There is also a sort of stuff they dig out mixt w^{th} y^e oar and all
about the hills they Call Sparr, it looks like Crystal or white sugar
Candy, its pretty hard; y^e doctors use it in medicine for the Collick;
its smooth like glass but it looks all in Crack’s all over. They Wall
round the Wells to y^e mines to Secure their Mold’ring in upon them,
they Generally Look very pale and yellow that work Underground, they are
fforc’d to keep Lights w^{th} them and sometymes are forced to use
Gunpowder to break y^e stones, and y^t is sometymes Hazardous to the
people and destroys them at y^e work. Its very difficult to find the
Wayes here for you see only tops of hills and so many roads—by reason of
y^e best wayes up and down—that its impossible for Coach or Waggon to
pass some of y^m, and you scarce see a tree and No hedges all over y^e
Country, only dry stone walls y^t incloses ground no other ffence.
Buxton we Saw 2 or 3 tymes and then Lost y^e sight of it as often, and
at last did not See it till just you Came upon it—that 9 mile we were
above 6 hours going it. The house thats Call’d Buxton Hall w^{ch}
belongs to y^e Duke of Devonshire its where the warme bath is and well,
its the Largest house in the place tho’ not very good; they are all
Entertaining houses and its by way of an ordinary—so much a piece for
y^r dinners and suppers and so much for our Servants besides; all y^e
ale and wine is to be paid—besides, the beer they allow at the meales is
so bad y^t very Little Can be dranke. You pay not for y^r bed roome and
truely the other is so unreasonable a price and y^e Lodgings so bad, 2
beds in a Roome some 3 beds and 4 in one roome, so that if you have not
Company Enough of your own to fill a Room they will be ready to put
others into the same Chamber, and sometymes they are so Crowded that
three must Lye in a bed. Few people stay above two or three nights its
so Inconvenient. We staid two nights by reason one of our Company was
ill, but it was sore against our Wills for there is no peace nor quiet
with one Company and another going into the bath or Coming out; that
makes so many strive to be in this house because the bath is in it. Its
about 40 foot Long and about 20 or 30 ffoote broad being almost square.
There is 10 or 12 springs that bubble up that are a Little warme, its
not so warme as milke from y^e Cow, and not a quick spring, so y^t its
not Capable of being Cleansed after Everybody has been in. Its warme
Enough just to Open the pores of ones body, but not to Cause sweat, I
was in it and it made me shake, its farre from the heate that is in the
Somersetshire baths. Its Cover’d over the top, but not Ceiled and there
is an open place in the middle like a Tunnell w^{ch} pours the Cold down
on y^e head, it would in my thoughts be better if it were Exposed all to
y^e aire and sunn. There is a pavem^t of Stone on one side at y^e brim
to walke on, with benches of Stone to Sitt on. You must have a guide y^t
Swims with you, you may Stand in some place and hold by a Chaine and y^e
water is not above y^r Neck, but in other parts very deep and strong it
will turn you down. About 10 or 12 yards distant is a spring Called S^t
Anns Well w^{ch} is for drinking, they have arch’d it up y^t its much
hotter, it heates y^e Cup you take it up in but not or near so hot as
y^e Somersetshire baths and springs are, the taste is not unpleasant but
Rather like Milk, they say its Diaretick—I dranke a part of a Cup full.
Another wonder is that of Pooles hole, thats just at y^e towns End, a
Large Cavity under ground of a Great Length. Just at the Entrance you
must Creep, but presently you stand upright, its Roofe being very Lofty
all arched in the Rocks and sound with a great Ecchoe. Y^e Rocks are
Continually droping water all about, you pass over Loose stones and
Craggy Rocks. The dripping of the water wears impression on y^e Stones
that forms them into Severall Shapes, there is one Looks Like a Lyon
w^{th} a Crown on his head, y^e water trickling on it weares it into so
many shapes; another place Lookes just Like y^e shape of a Large organ
w^{th} ye severall Keys and pipes one above another as you see in a
great Cathedrall; there is also a Stone w^{ch} Looks white and in shape
Like a salted flitch of Bacon w^{ch} hangs down from the Roofe of y^e
Arch w^{ch} is very Lofty in this place. There is another Rock Looks
like a Chaire of State w^{th} y^e Canopy and all glistring like diamonds
or starrs; thus does all y^e sides of the Rock all shine Like Diamonds.
Y^e Rocks are very Large and Craggy and Indented, some Looks like y^e
outsides of Cockle shells, others are smooth all Caused I believe from
y^e dripping of y^e Water. I was as farre as y^e Queen of Scotts pillar,
w^{ch} is a Large white stone, and y^e top hangs over your head Like a
Cannopy all great white Stones and in spires or Large jceickles and
glistring as the other. They may go farther but I had no such Curiosity,
I had y^e Light Carry’d that shewed me to S^t Anns Needle after w^{ch}
is only sand. This white stone is very Like Chrystall of w^{ch} there is
a stone Like a Bason or Large ffont wherein drops Continually y^e water
w^{ch} runns over and trickling down does as it were Candy in jceickles
and points, under w^{ch} is a pillar of this white stone. We had some
broken off which Looks like y^e jnsides of oyster-shells or mother of
pearle, some Looks like alabaster. As I went I Clamber’d over the top of
all y^e stones and as I Came back I pass’d under severall of y^e arches
Like bridges; they are both wayes full of Loose stones and the water
dropping makes them slippery, it being also very uneven by reason of y^e
Craggs. How it should Come none Can give any good accō; its Call’d
Pooles hole from a man of that name that was a Robber and use to secure
himself in y^t place like a house, and so y^e Country people imagined he
made it, but some think it was dug to find mines or marble or Chrystal
because y^e mettle mines are full of stone as I s^d before; only this
Enters in y^e side whereas the mines they make now are as a well
perpendicular for severall yards before it spreads, and y^t not till
they Come to find metal, but y^e difficulty appears as to this hole how
so large a Cavity should be Left, as in some places y^e Roofe is as
lofty as you can see and all stone; now how it should be fixt so as not
to tumble in by y^e weight of y^e Earth or stone on y^e top: as to y^e
waters dropping y^t is but what is Customary among rocks and stones,
there are many springs w^{ch} run in y^e veines of y^e Earth and
allwayes are running in such subteraneus vaults in the Earth, w^{ch}
gather together and runns in a little Channell in y^e bottom of this
Cave as you may step one. The 4th wonder is that off Elden hole about 2
mile from Buxton; its on y^e side of a hill about 30 yards if not better
in length at y^e brimm, and half so broad, and just in sight is full of
Craggy stones like a Rock for about 2 or 3 yards down, w^{ch} Contracts
the Mouth of y^e hole to about 4 yards long and 2 broad or thereabouts;
w^{ch} hole is Suppos’d to run down directly a vast length and has been
try’d w^{th} a Line and plummet severall fathom and the bottom not
Sounded, tho’ some are of opinion its because the hole runns aslant so
the plummet and Line Could not pass, and what we observ’d gives some
strength to this notion, for Cast a stone down you hear it Strike a long
tyme at the sides of y^e hole, and if you go down below 100 y^{ds} or
more and Lay y^r head to the ground you shall hear the stone ring Much
longer than those that stand at the holes mouth, w^{ch} must discover
y^e ground to be hollow at Least much farther in Compass than the mouth
of y^e hole, but its Certain it must be of a great depth by reason of
the tyme you Can hear a stone strike and ring in its descending, and y^t
which Lessens the sound may be by its breaking against the sides. Its a
very hazardous place, for if a man or beast be too near the Edge of y^e
bank and trip they fall in w^{th} out retrieve. Y^e beasts graze in the
Grounds and hills but it must be some great force that drives them near
the hole; there is a sort of instinct in Nature, self preservation and a
great sence of danger in beasts; its reported that severall Attempts
have been made to ffence the whole round w^{th} a stone Wall as the
manner of the fences are all over y^t Country, but yet it has been all
in vaine. What they built up in the day would be pull’d down in y^e
night and so its vaine to trye y^e securing it round from any falling
in—this the people tell us. The Country here about is so full of moore
or quagmires and such precipices that one that is a stranger Cannot
travell w^{th} out a guide, and some of them are put to a Loss
sometymes.
The fifth wonder is Mamtour w^{ch} is a high hill that Looks Exactly
round, but on the side next Castleton w^{ch} is a Little town in the
High Peake on that side its all broken that it Looks just in resemblance
as a great Hay-Ricke y^{ts} Cut down one halfe on one side—that
describes it most naturall. This is all sand, and on that broken side
the sand keeps trickling down allwayes Especially when there is the
Least wind of w^{ch} I believe this Country scarce Ever is w^{th}out;
many places of the hill Looks hollow and Loose w^{ch} makes it very
dangerous to ascend and none does attempt it, y^e sand being Loose slips
y^e foote back againe.
The 6^{th} wonder is at Casleton 4 mile from Elderhole; its a town Lyes
at y^e foote of an Exceeding steep hill w^{ch} Could not be descended by
foote or horse, but in a Compass and y^t by y^e Roads returning to and
agen on y^e side of y^e hill at Least 4 tymes before we Could gaine y^e
bottom or top of s^d Hill. This is w^{ch} they Call the Devills Arse a
peake, the hill on one End jutting out in two parts and joyns in one at
y^e top, this part or Cleft between you Enter a great Cave w^{ch} is
very Large, and severall poor Little houses in it built of Stone and
thatch’d Like Little Styes, one seemed a Little bigger in which a
Gentleman Liv’d and his wife y^t was worth above 100^£ a year w^{ch} he
left to his brother, Chooseing rather Like a hermite to Live in this
sorry Cell. One M^r Midleton who was w^{th} us s^d he had dined w^{th}
them there on Carrots and Herbs, and y^t he was dead and his wife a year
or two since. Now none but very poor people Live there w^{ch} makes some
small advantage by begging and by Lighting the strangers into the Cave
w^{ch} beyond this you Enter so straight a passage. At the mouth you
stoop very Low Even upon y^r Breast and Creep in, when you are about a
yard or two’s Length you stand upright, it being Lofty in manner of
Poole’s Hole only the Rock hangs down in so many places that there is
often Cause of Stooping very Low to pass by y^m, and here y^e ground you
tread on is all sand and firme, only y^e Rocks do drip water in many
places w^{ch} makes it damp and strikes Cold to you, but Excepting the
pillars of Rock in some places that hang down y^e most of it is very
Lofty and a great Ecchoe like a Church. You pass a good way by y^e Light
of many Candles haveing Lost y^e sight of day from y^e first stooping
Entrance. At Last you Come to a river they Call it, a great water it is
and very deep, they say its about 12 yards over and some do go on it
w^{th} a Little boate to y^e other side but I would not venture. There
was one Gentlewoman in our Company s^d she had once been Carry’d over on
2 mens shoulders, but they waded above their waste in water, so I would
not be for so dangerous I was sure it was a difficult Enterprise, and
when you are over y^t side they go over but such places as was pass’d
before w^{ch} Leads to another such a water w^{ch} some men have pass’d
over and so have gone on to a third water, but there y^e Rocks hung so
Low as almost to touch y^e water w^{ch} hindred their proceeding. That
water I saw was strange, so deep and large and look’d like a standing
water but whether it were or not Could not tell, no Doubt but it has a
passage thro’ the veines of y^e Earth or Else would swell so as to Cause
a bursting out of y^e Earth—it seemed to have a motion w^{th} it, All
these things shewes the great wisdom and power of our blessed Creator to
make and maintaine all things within its own Bounds and Limits w^{ch}
have a tendency to worke out ruine to y^e whole frame of y^e world if
not bridled by Gods Command.
The seventh wonder is a flowing and Ebbing Well between this town and
Buxton w^{ch} Ceases its miraculous motion but on Great raines which
Raises the springs, and then, the man w^{ch} was w^{th} us told me he
had seen it severall tymes in y^e winter when y^e springs were high to
Ebb and flow severall tymes in a hour, w^{ch} appear’d by y^e Rise and
fall of y^e water from y^e Edge of ye well, and the man seem’d to be a
good sober man, M^r Middleton it was, so that its Likely when the
springs are high the water from the sea may have a quicker flux and
Reflux thro’ the Channells of y^e Earth, but this is a good distance
from y^e sea or Ebbing and flowing Rivers.
From Castleton to Buxton is 6 mile, but they are very long. You might go
10 of miles near London as soon as you are going halfe so many here.
Thence we went to Ashburn 16 miles where I saw some of their Copper
mines where they dig them like a well, but secure y^e side w^{th} wood
and turffe bound w^{th} ye wood like Laths or frames aCross and long
wayes to secure it. This is a pretty neate market town; thence to Uxeter
8 mile, and we Cross a River on a long Bridge and so we enter
Staffordshire w^{ch} has quite a different soyle, sand and gravell and
some Clay, and very pretty sort of pebbles in the ground—some of a
bright green like an Emerald, others vein’d, some Clear like Christall.
This Country is well wooded and full of Enclosures, good Rich Ground, is
Extreamely differing from Darbyshire. Just before we Came to Uxeter we
pass by a very Exact house and Gardens of one M^r Cotten a justice of
peace, its Brick and Coyn’d w^{th} stone, the Gardens or Courts very
Compleate, but it stands in a Low moorish ground to show this worlds
good is not perfect but has its foule as well as faire Side and with all
its Conveniency’s Must Labour under some difficultyes. We pass thro’ a
deep and Long water just by, but y^e bottom was hard gravell, this
supply’s severall mills w^{ch} are used for their prepareing y^e metal
they take out of y^e mines. I had a piece of Copper given me by One of
y^e managers of y^m.
Thence we Came to Woolsley 7 mile, to a Relations house S^r Charles
Woolsley whose Lady was my Aunt, where we dined. Y^e house stands in a
fine parke; y^e house is an old building and but Low, its built round a
Court: there is a Large Lofty hall in y^e Old fashion, a dineing and
drawing roome on y^e one hand, and a little parlour on the other, the
best roomes were newer built w^{th} Chambers over them, and a very good
staircase well wanscoated and Carv’d w^{th} good pictures. Y^e Rest of
the house is all old and Low and must be new built. Y^e Gardens are
good, both gravell and Green walks; there is a good River runns by it
w^{ch} has dwarfe trees and honysuckles and binds on the Bancks, there
is a great deale of good fruite and there are severall walks, one shady
w^{th} high trees w^{ch} my Aunt told me my mother liked to walke in and
so was Call’d her walke. I eate a sort of flatt strawbery like a button,
w^{ch} grew in a second Crop from y^e same strawberys Roote w^{ch}
produces its first Crop a sort of Large garden Strawberries and this
sort afterwards. In this Country they burn all this tyme of y^e year
July, their ffern and make y^e ashes up in balls and so keep to make Lye
for driveing their Ruck of Cloth’s w^{ch} whitens them much. Not farre
from hence they have y^e mines of the fine sort of Coale that is hard
and will be pollished like black marble, for salts or boxes or such
Like, y^e only difference it will not bear ye fire as marble does, Else
it resembles it very much; there were of these mines just by but now
they have Come to y^e End of this veine and so there is none within 6 or
7 mile.
This is y^e pitt Coale, y^{ts} Cloven and burns Like a Candle, and makes
white ashes Like y^e Scotch-Coale. Y^e same sort is in Nottinghamshire.
From hence we went to Litchfield 7 mile, a sandy Road full of fine
pebbles; Litchfield stands Low, there is a greate standing water as I
have seen just by y^e town, w^{ch} does often flow y^e grounds after
Raines, so the Road is secured w^{th} a banck and a breast wall of a
good Length into y^e town—as a Long Causy or bridge y^e Road is, and
there are some few Arches here and there to Carry off y^e water. Y^e
water has very good ffish in it but it must be muddy; its the privilege
of y^e Magistrates only to have fishing or to go about it w^{th} a
little boate. The town has good houses, y^e Close has y^e Bishops and
Deanes and prebends houses w^{ch} are good; the streetes are very neate
and handsome, y^e Breadth and length very well and the building
handsome. The minster is a stately structure but old, y^e outside has
been finely Carv’d and full of Images as appears by the nitches and
pedistalls w^{ch} remaine very Close all over the walls, and still just
at ye front remaines some Statues of y^e Kings of Jerusalem and some
angels and Cherubims. At y^e door is a Large statue of King Charles y^e
Second, and all about y^e door is fine Carving of flowers Leaves, birds
and beasts and some saints and apostles statues. The Inside of y^e
Church is very neate being new but there is but Little painting; there
are two Quires, one old one w^{th} organs and seates, y^e other new
w^{ch} is very Large w^{th} Organs and fine Carving in y^e wood; here
are 2 organs. There is a painting over the Communion table of peach
Collour satten Like a Cannopy w^{th} gold fringe, and its drawn so well
that it lookes like a Reall Cannopy. There is some remaines of a Castle,
y^e walls and some of the towers remaine. The wall that Encompasses y^e
town is what Encompasses the Church and goes from thence.
We went thence to Colehill 12 mile, and pass’d by severall good houses.
Here I saw y^e way of makeing Runnet as they do in Cheshire—they take
y^e Reed bag and Curd and haveing washed it Clean, salt it and breake
y^e Curd small about y^e bag, so drye them, being stretch’d out with
sticks like a glove, and so hang them in a Chimney till you need it,
then Cut a piece off this as big as halfe a Crown and boyle it in a
little water w^{ch} water will turn y^e milke better than any made
runnet and its freshe. This is a pretty little market town and stands on
a hill.
Thence to Coventry all on a Levell 8 mile. I Came by severall pretty
seates, one on the Left hand of S^r Andrew Hacket stands in a parke and
good gardens walled in, and on the Right hand we Came Close to a very
pretty new built house w^{th} severall Rows of firrs, the outward Court
Came in a Compass w^{th} open Barrgates just to the Road, and a brick
bridge from the Court at one side quite Cross y^e highway: we drove
under it w^{ch} Leads to a parke that runs along on the other hand. The
house was brick and Coyn’d with stone and the windows the same, 8
windows in the front and y^e Lawrells and greens look’d very pretty.
Coventry stands on the side of a pretty high hill and as you approach it
from the adjacent hill you have the full prospect. The spire and steeple
of one of the Churches is very high and is thought the third highest in
England. In the same Church yard stands another large Church w^{ch} is
something unusuall two such great Churches together; their towers and
the Rest of y^e Churches and high buildings make the town appear very
fine, the streetes are broad and very well pitch’d w^{th} small stone.
The Cross is noted and y^e finest building in England for such a thing,
and in my phancy it very much resembles y^e picture of y^e tower of
Babel, its all stone Carv’d very Curiously, and there are 4 divisions
Each being less than another to y^e top, and so its Piramidy forme. In
Each partition is severall nitches for statues quite round it where are
kings and queens, and just on Each side before Each statute is their
arms and y^e arms of England and the arms of y^e town, and so its
adorn’d w^{th} Coullours and gilding in their proper places as in the
garments and Crowns or Coronets, and finely Carv’d w^{th} angels and
Cherubims and all sorts of beasts, Birds, flowers in garlands, and
Leaves—this in Every division; there is variety quite up to the top
w^{ch} is finely Carv’d and Gilt. This is y^e biggest place in y^e town,
and y^e streete very broad and runs off a great length, and most of y^e
streetes are very good. Y^e buildings are mostly of timber work and old.
There is a water house at the End of y^e town w^{ch} from springs does
supply by pipes y^e whole town w^{th} water in y^e manner that London
is. There is also a water w^{ch} serves severall mills y^t belong to the
town; it seems to be a thriveing good trading town and is very Rich.
They have a great publick stock belonging to y^e Corporation above 3
thousand pound a year for publick schooles, Charity and y^e maintenance
of their severall publick Expences, of their Magistrates and Companyes,
the majority of the heads are now in y^e sober men, so its Esteem’d a
ffanatick town, and there is Indeed the largest Chapple and y^e greatest
number of people I have ever seen of y^e Presbiterian way. There is
another meeteing place in y^e town of y^e Independants w^{ch} is nott so
bigg, but tho’ they may differ in some small things, in y^e maine they
agree and seeme to Love one another w^{ch} was no small sattisfaction to
me, Charity and Love to y^e brethren being y^e Characteristicall marke
of Christs true Disciples.
Coventry has one thing remains Remarkable not to be omitted, the statue
of a man Looking out of a window w^{th} his Eyes out, and is a monument
as history tells us of some priviledges obtein’d by a Lady wife, to the
nobleman who was lord of y^e town, and she was to purchase them by
passing on horse back through y^e town naked w^{ch} he thought she would
not do, but out of zeale to relieve y^e town from some hard bondage she
did, and Commanded all windows and doores to be shutt and none to appear
in the streete on pain of death w^{ch} was obey’d by all; but one man
would open a window and Looke out and for his impudence had this
judgment on him to be struck blind; this statute is his resemblance and
one day in a year they Remember y^e good Lady by some rejoyceing. There
are severall good walks about y^e town, and a large parke above y^e town
w^{ch} most people walk in: thence we went to Warwick. Coventry is
joyn’d to Litchfield under one Bishop and y^t w^{ch} I wonder at that
the Bishop and most of y^e dignatorys and abundance of Gentry Rather
Chooses to Live at and near all about Litchfield tho’ it stands so low
and waterish, than at Coventry w^{ch} is a pleasanter scituation and
better buildings. There is S^r Tho: Nortons house at y^e end of y^e town
and a large parke. From Coventry to Warwick going about to see an
acquaintance of our Company we made it 10 mile, and went in sight of y^e
Lord Liegh on y^e Left hand, w^{ch} Lay all along by y^e River Aven; it
stands Low very well wooded.
We ascended a very steep hill to take a view of y^e Country and so Could
see Coventry, and were just by Hillingworth Castle on y^e Right
hand—much of y^e Ruines of y^e walls remaine still—and so Enter
Warwickshire. The town of Warwick by means of a sad fire about 4 or 5
years since y^t Laid y^e greatest part in ashes, its most now new built,
w^{ch} is w^{th} brick and Coyn’d w^{th} stone and y^e windows y^e same.
There still remaines some few houses of y^e old town w^{ch} are all
built of stone. Ye streetes are very handsome and y^e buildings Regular
and fine, not very Lofty being Limited by act of partliam^t to such a
pitch and size to build y^e town. Y^e ruines of y^e Church still
remaines, y^e repairing of which is y^e next worke design’d; Y^e
Chancell stands still in w^{ch} was all the fine monuments y^t were
preserv’d from the fire; there is one monument of y^e great Earle of
Leisters and his Ladyes in stone Curiously wrought, w^{th} their
Garments, and painted and Gilded. There is another in marble of y^e
Earle of Warwick, y^e statue Cut very finely, y^e face hands and forme
very Lively, and under his head is a Role of Straw matting as you would
suppose being Exceeding naturall Cut in Stone. In y^e middle stands y^e
monument of y^e Earle y^t was regent in Ffrance and dyed there and was
brought and buried here, his statue at Length in armour, but y^e Lines
of his face and hands w^{th} y^e veines and sinews were so finely Cast
and y^e very aire of his Countenance much to y^e Life or Like a Liveing
man all Cast brass and Burnish’d very delicately y^t it Looks like Gold,
all his armour very Exact and his arms are Cut finely at his head, and
supporters at his feete, w^{th} ffigures and Images to adorne it; round
the tombstone on y^e one side and Each End is 4 : and 2 y—at the End
statues of y^e great men y^t were of his family, sons and
Grand-Children, and on the other side are 4 Ladies of the family all
Cast in the same Burnish’d Brass; they are in little and all in
Religious habits w^{ch} formerly in ye tymes of popery and superstition
most persons Coveted to dye in; their garments are folded in differing
shapes and w^{th} many wrinklings and gathers w^{ch} is very exact and
y^e more to be noted being all in such a stiff mettle as Brass and yet
it Lookes Easye and natural. On y^e other side y^e Church in a little
Chapple is a Large monument of Black and White Marble in manner of a bed
w^{th} pillars, and its grated round—the pillars black marble—of some
Nobleman w^{th} a Large Inscription round it, and one thing is noted of
him there that he thought it his greatest Character to be Esteem’d a
great ffriend and Companion of S^r Philip Sidney’s w^{ch} is but of poor
availe to him now dead if he was not y^e friend of y^e great Jehovah—but
such is y^e folly and vanity of y^e most of y^e world to be in Esteeme
w^{th} y^e wise and great men of this world. There is delicate Carving
about y^e walls and round y^e windows in stone all manner of Birds
beasts, Laurells flowers &c &c, and Cherubims, and Gilded and painted in
severall parts. Warwick Castle is a stately building, its now the Lord
Brooke’s house. You Enter thro’ two Large Courts into a noble Hall
wanscoated, w^{th} in it is a Large parlour all wanscoated w^{th} Cedar,
w^{ch} is full of fine pictures of the family and beyond that is a
drawing roome and bed Chamber w^{th} good tapistry hangings; they are
old but so good worke and so beautifull the Coullours still, you would
admire it, and the worke so Curious all of silk that y^e very postures
and faces Look Extreame lively and naturall, and the groves streames and
Rivers Look’s very well on it. There was good velvet Chaires in y^e
roomes and good Pictures. Within y^e bed Chamber is Closets, out of one
you Looke to y^e river even at y^e End window, there is so greate a
Levell you may see near 20 mile. Stowe in y^e Old you see w^{ch} is as
farre, its all full of Enclosures and woods most of the Country. All
these roomes are very Lofty and large and larger than most houses I have
seen, the Gardens fine and many without Each other, w^{th} good gravell
and grass walks, squares of dwarfe trees of all sorts and steps to
descend from one walke to another, y^e whole of w^{ch} I saw at one view
on y^e top of y^e mount, together with y^e whole town and a vast
prospect all about, y^e mount being very high and y^e ascent is round to
an agen securred by Cut hedges on y^e side y^e path. At y^e Entrance of
y^e first Court y^e porter diverts you w^{th} a history of Guy Earle of
Warwick, there is his walking staff 9 foote long and y^e staff of a
Gyant w^{ch} he kill’d thats 12 ffoote long; his sword, Helmet and
shield and breast and back all of a prodigious size, as is his wives
jron slippers and also his horses armour and the pottage-pott for his
supper—it was a yard over the top; there is also the bones of severall
Beasts he kill’d, the Rib of y^e Dun-Cow as bigg as halfe a great Cart
Wheele: 2 miles from the town is his Cave dugg out by his own hands just
y^e dimention of his body as the Common people say, there is also his
will Cut out on stone, but y^e letters are much defaced; these are the
storyes and meer ffiction, for the true history of Guy was that he was
but a Little man in stature tho’ great in mind and valour, which
tradition describes to posterity by being a Gyant. Such will the account
be of our Hero King William the third tho’ Little in stature yet Great
in atchievements and valour. Ffrom Warwick we went towards Daventry all
along part of the vale of y^e Red horse w^{ch} was very heavy way, and
Could not reach thither being 14 mile. About 11 mile we Came to a place
Called Nether Sugar—a sad village, we Could have no Entertainment. Just
by it on the top of a steep hill is Shuggbery Hall a seate of S^r
Charles Shuggberys who seeing our distress being just night and y^e
horses weary w^{th} y^e heavy way he very Curteously tooke Compassion on
us and treated us very handsomely that night, a good supper serv’d in
plaite and very good wine and good beds. My Lady Shuggbery was the lord
Leigh’s Daughter and that day dineing there her Coach drove by us when
in distress Enquireing for Lodging w^{ch} Caused S^r Charles to Come out
to meete us, shewed a generous hospitable spirit to strangers, and with
a great deale of good humour My Lady Entertained us. The house stands
within a good parke, the deer so tame as to Come up near y^e gate w^{ch}
ascends steps to a Court of Broad stone. The house looks very handsome
built of Brick and Stone, good hall and large parlour and drawing roome
well wanscoated, neately ffurnish’d and a little parlour on the other
side with good pictures; the Butlery Kitchen and offices very
Convenient, two good staircases and 3 or 4 good Chambers very well
ffurnish’d tho’ not very Rich; but in the Generall all things were very
well as any private Gentleman has whatever. he has severall good houses.
He ordered one of his Daughters to get me a Curiosity they dig up in
most part of the hill there about, they Call them Arms, its just Like
Mullets that they have in an Eschuteon to difference the third son from
the first and second in a family. Thence we went to Daventry 3 miles, a
pretty large Market town and good houses all of stone and so we Enter
into Northamptonshire. To Northampton town is 8 mile w^{ch} opens a
noble prospect to y^e sight a mile distant, a large town well built, y^e
streetes as large as most in London Except Holborn and the Strand, the
houses well built of brick and stone, some all stone, very regular
buildings.
The town hall is new built all stone and resembles Guildhall in Little
tho’ it is a good Lofty spacious place. There is two Barrs in it w^{th}
y^e benches and seat distinct, over one of the Barrs is King William and
Queen Mary’s pictures at Length. The Church is new built, its very
neate, there is two Rows of stone pillars at the Entrance of the Church
on y^e outside, and it is to be paved w^{th} broad stone but y^t was not
quite ffinished, they were at worke on some adornments at the ffront.
There is abundance of new buildings which adds to the beauty of y^e
town. We enter the town from Daventry over a large Bridge, and the water
runs twineing about y^e grounds w^{th} rows of Willows on Each side of
it w^{ch} looks very pretty.
Y^e way out of town towards London you go by a Cross a mile off the town
Call’d High-Cross, it stands just in the middle of England, its all
stone 12 stepps w^{ch} runs round it, above that is the stone Carv’d
ffinely and there are 4 Large Nitches about y^e Middle, in Each is the
statue of some queen at Length which Encompasses it w^{th} other
Carvings as garnish, and so it rises less and less to y^e top like a
tower or Piramidy. Thence to Stony Stratford, so Cross y^e river Aven
again 12 mile, and Enter Buckinghamshire. At Stony Stratford w^{ch} is a
little place built of stone they make a great deale of bonelace and so
they do all here about, its the manuffactory of this part of y^e
Country, they sit and worke all along y^e streete as thick as Can be.
Thence to great Horwood: this Country is fruitfull, full of woods,
Enclosures and rich Ground. Y^e Little towns stand pretty thicke. You
have many in view as you pass y^e Road. 6 mile to Horwood, thence we
pass by a lofty pile of Building Called Salden, a gentlemans house, and
by the Rich M^{rs} Bennets House, Remarkable for Coveteousness w^{ch}
was y^e Cause of her death—her treasures tempted a Butcher to Cut her
throate who hangs in Chains just against her house. She had 3 daughters,
the two youngest are Living one married to a Benet, y^e other y^e Earle
of Salisbury and are great fortunes by their mothers penuriousness.
Thence to Oxborn and Enter Bedfordshire 13 mile. The duke of Bedfords
house we saw w^{ch} stands in a fine parke full of deer and wood, and
some off the trees are kept Cut in works and y^e shape of severall
beasts. The house is an old Building, Low, there are very good stables
and out offices, Landry yard &c. The gardens are fine, there is a Large
bowling-green with 8 arbours kept Cut neately and seates in Each, there
is a Seate up in a high tree that ascends from y^e green 50 steps that
Commands the whole parke round to see the Deer hunted, as also a Large
prospect of the Country. There are 3 Large Gardens, fine Gravell walks
and full of fruite. I Eate a great quantety of y^e Red Coralina goosbery
w^{ch} is a large thin skin’d sweete Goosebery. Ye walks are one above
another w^{th} stone steps. In the square, just by the dineing roome
window is all sorts of pots of flowers and Curious greens, fine orange,
Cittron and Lemon trees and mirtles, striped ffilleroy and y^e fine
aloes plant. On the side of this you pass under an arch into a Cherry
garden in the midst of w^{ch} stands a figure of stone resembling an old
weeder woman used in the garden, and my Lord would have her Effigie
w^{ch} is done so like and her Clothes so well that at first I tooke it
to be a Real Living body. On y^e other side of y^e house is another
Large garden, severall gravell walks one above another, and on the
flatts are fish ponds the whole length of the Walke; above y^t in the
next flat is 2 fish ponds, here are dwarfe trees spread of a great
bigness. Ffrom thence we Came to Dunstable 7 mile over a sad road Called
Hockley in y^e Hole, as full of deep slows in y^e winter it must be
Empasable. There is a very good pitch’d Causey for foote people and
horse, that is raised up high from the Road, and a very steepe Chaulky
hill, from whence it has its name—the Chalk hill just as you Enter
Dunstable. Its a good town as you shall meete with on the Road, its full
of Inns, there is a long Large streete with a great water in the
streete—it Looks like a Large pond. Here I went to see two of my
Relations Daughters to S^r Charles Woolsley, one marry’d there to a
Doctor of physick D^r Marsh, w^{th} whome was a maiden sister my Cos’n
Bridget Woolsley. Thence to S^t Albans and so we Enter Hartfordshire 12
mile. There is a very large streete to the Market place, its a pretty
Large town takeing all the S^t Juliers and y^t at one End, and y^e other
End is S^t Nicholas where is a handsome Church. The great Church w^{ch}
is dedicated to S^t Albans is much out of repaire, I see the places in
the pavement that was worn like holes for kneeling by the devotes of y^e
Religion and his votery’s as they tell you, but the whole Church is so
worn away that it mourns for some Charitable person to help repaire it.
There are severall good houses about y^e town, one of y^e Earle off
Maulberough (now Duke of Marlborough) and one of M^{rs} Gennings y^e
Countess Mother.
Thence we Came to Barnet 8 mile, w^{ch} is in Middlesex and seemes to be
a very sharpe aire; its a Large place and y^e houses are made Commodious
to Entertain the Company y^t Comes to drink the water, w^{ch} Certainly
if they be at the paines to go once and see would have but Little
stomach to drink them. The well is a Large place walled in 8 square, its
at Least two yards over and built 2 or 3 yards up from the water and
over it is Lattices of wood round to Looke down into it and so Covered
like a house above; below are staires down to a doore to go in to dip
the water there. I stood at the Lowest step above the water to Look into
it, its full of Leaves and Dirt and Every tyme they dip it troubles y^e
water, not but what they take up and let stand—Looks Clear but I Could
not taste it. Its very deep and not done at the bottom w^{th} a bason as
Tunbridg, neither Can you see the bottom, so that it appears not to be a
quick spring as Tunbridg or y^e Spaw or Hamstead waters w^{ch} have all
fine stone basons in w^{ch} you see the springs bubble up as fast and by
a pipe runs off as Clear and fast; it more resembles Epsom for w^{ch}
reason I dislike that. Thence to Highgate 6 miles, thence to London 4
miles where I returned and all our Company Blessed be God very well
w^{th} out any disaster or trouble in 7 weeks tyme about 635 miles that
we went together.
My Journey to Canterberry and Dover in Kent the same year from Amwell in
Hartfordshire. I went to Royston 1 mile, and Epin in Essex 9 mile,
thence to Drumford through Lanes and much wood—that part of Essex is
full of woods; y^t was 10 mile. Thence to Abnife 14 mile, thence to
Tilbery 3 mile w^{ch} is a ffine ffort, a great flatt to y^e Land, full
of Watry ditches and may be flooded all over. Here was the fight by y^e
parliament in 1640. There are Severall Buildings by themselves of a
Triangular form of Brickwork in w^{ch} y^e powder and amunition is kept.
Here is a ferry over to Gravesend where we enter Kent, w^{ch} Lyes just
over against it a little snugg town under a hill, the houses little and
thick together fitt only for seamen and soldiers y^t are Employ’d in the
water or the ffort. I saw severall Colliers pass by Laden towards
London.
The Thames here is very Rough and Deep so as we fferry over in a boate
like a Hoy. Thence I went to Rochester 7 mile most in lanes; we Enter
the town over the Medway w^{ch} is the finest River I ever saw, it runs
thence to the sea and meetes y^e Thames at y^e Boy in Nore and so they
fall into y^e sea together, but it Ebbs and flows up a great way above
Rochester and is very salt. The Bridg at Rochester is the finest in
England—nay its said to Equal any in the world—it is not built upon
w^{th} houses as London Bridge but its very Long and fine, Iron spikes
Like a grate is on the top of the wall w^{ch} is breast high, and these
jrons on the top w^{ch} are above a yard more. Its jndented at Each arch
as all bridges are, there are 9 large Arches w^{th} y^e middle one
w^{ch} is to be opened by drawing up to give passage to Barges and
little vessells. When y^e tyde was out I saw the worke of the arches is
w^{th} wood Cutt hollow, and stands a good distance into the water to
keep the water from bearing too hard against the Bridge.
The town is large jncludeing the suburbs and all, for there is a large
place before you pass the river w^{ch} washes quite round y^t side of
y^e town to y^e Dockyards, thats a mile from it where are two large
yards for building shipps.
I saw severall Large shipps building, others refitting. There was in one
place a sort of arches like a bridge of Brickwork, they told me y^e use
of it was to let in y^e water there, and so they put their masts in to
season, besides this dock, here are severall streetes of houses on this
hill w^{ch} is pretty high and is just against Rochester, and on y^e
hill you have y^e best prospect of the town and see y^e severall good
Churches in it, and the Castle w^{ch} is a pretty Little thing just by
y^e Medway w^{ch} runs along by it, and so at foote of this hill is a
Round and so onward to sea. There were severall shipps at anchor along
y^e River. All behind the town is another hill w^{ch} is covered w^{th}
fine woods y^t Looks very fine; thence to Sittingburn 11 mile all in
sight of y^e Lovely Medway. This is a very good town for y^e Road and
travellers as you shall meete w^{th}. The Church is all built w^{th}
flints headed so Curiously that it Lookes like glass and shines with y^e
suns Reflexion.
Thence to Canterbery 16 mile, we pass by great Hop yards on both sides
of the Road, and this year was great quantetyes of that fruite here in
Kent. We pass by Ffeversham just at y^e towns End w^{ch} is 9 mile from
Canterbury, its a very large town and good buildings of Bricke.
Canterbery opens to view 6 miles distant by y^e advantage of a high hill
we pass over to it—its a noble Citty—y^e gates are high tho’ but narrow,
the streetes are most of them Large and long, and y^e buildings
handsome, very neate but not very Lofty, most are of Brickwork, its a
flourishing town, good tradeing in y^e weaving of silks. I saw 20 Loomes
in one house w^{th} severall fine flower’d silks, very good ones, and
its a very Ingenious art to fix the warps and Chaine in their Loomes to
Cast their work into such ffigures and flowers. There stands a boy by
Every Loome and pulls up and down threads w^{ch} are fastened to the
weaving, and so pulls the Chaine to the Exact form for y^e shuttle to
work through.
There are also paper mills w^{ch} dispatches paper at a quick rate, they
were then makeing brown paper w^n I saw it. The mill is set agoing by
y^e water and at y^e same tyme it pounded the raggs to morter for y^e
paper, and it beate out meale and Hemp and ground bread altogether—that
is at y^e same tyme. When y^e substance for y^e paper is pounded Enough,
they take it in a great tub and so with a frame just of y^e size of y^e
sheetes of paper made all of small wire just as I have seen fine Screens
to Screen Corne in, only this is much Closer wrought, and they Clap a
frame of wood round y^e Edge and so dip it into y^e tub and what is too
thinn runs through; then they turn this frame down on a piece of Coarse
woollen just of y^e size of y^e paper and so give a Knock to it and it
falls off; on w^{ch} they Clap another such a piece of woollen Cloth
w^{ch} is ready to Lay y^e next frame of paper, and so till they have
made a large heape w^{ch} they by a board on the bottom move to a press,
and so Lay a board on y^e top and so Let down a great screw and weight
on it, w^{ch} they force together into such a narrow Compass as they
know so many sheets of paper will be reduced, and this presses out all
y^e thinner part and Leaves the paper so firme as it may be taken up
sheete by sheete and Laid together to be thoroughly dryed by the wind.
They told me white paper was made in the same manner only they must take
white woollen to put between. There is a great number of French people
in this town w^{ch} are Employ’d in the weaving and silk winding, I
meete them Every night going home in great Companyes, but then some of
them were Employ’d in the Hopping, it being the season for pulling them.
Here is a spring in the town that is dranke by many persons as Tunbridge
and approv’d by them, but others find it an ill water, one Gentleman in
y^e same house I was in Complained of a numbness in his Limbs after
drinking it sometyme, w^{ch} is quite Contrary to Tunbridge waters whose
property is to relieve Lost Limbs y^t are benumbed, and it Comeing from
steele should have y^t Effect it raising the blood and gives it a new
Circulation. The taste of the spring in this town seems to be from a
mixt soyle and bears a Likeness to y^e Sulpher spaw Epsome and y^e Iron
springs too w^{ch} are at Tunbridge; what its operation is I Cannot tell
only tasteing halfe a Glass of it w^{ch} I did not Like. Y^e well is
walled in and a raile round w^{th} stepps down and paved aboute for the
Company to stand just at y^e head to drinke, but I like no spring y^t
rises not quick and runs off apace that must have most spirit and good
off the minerall it Comes from. There is fine walks and seates and
places for the musick to make it acceptable and Comodious to y^e
Company. There is a large Market house and a town Hall over it in the
town, but the Cathedrall is the finest sight there, the Carving of stone
is very fine on the outside as also within, but its not so Large as
Salisbury; its a square tower—no spire running up from it—but the small
ones at Each Corner of y^e tower for ornament.
There are two large jsles in y^e middle of the Church w^{ch} leads to
open gates of jron barrs and spikes, thence is an ascent of 20 steps, as
Winchester Church is; up to y^e Quire, where is a fine Large organ, so
is the ffont well Carv’d and painted and Gilded, the bottom is white and
grey Marble w^{th} white marble statues round the stem to the ffoote,
the top is made in a piramidy Carv’d and painted. The Windows in y^e
Quire are most delicately painted as Ever I saw, y^e Curiosity of the
worke and Coullours beyond others, but the size of the windows much
Inferior being very small for a Church. Y^e Glass is very thick and the
Coullours Laid on it strikes through the glass, its Coullours tinctures
all y^e Glass, an art w^{ch} now is lost amongst us. At y^e Alter is a
Cloth and Coushons of purple ffigured Velvet the books the same, there
is a broad tissue border of orrace work gold and silver, and at y^e Edge
is a ffine knotted fringe of purple silk and gold. The Bishops seate and
Cushon the same w^{ch} was given by our good Queen Mary King Williams
Queen when she was at Canterbery. The Chapter house is pretty Lofty
supported by its own worke w^{th} out pillars, its Ceiled with Irish
oake, there are severall good monuments of y^e Kings and queens and
great men and severall Bishops. There is one Bishops statue y^t was at
y^e paines to divide the Bible into Chapters w^{ch} makes it more
Commodious to the Reader, and was a good Employment for him it being the
proper subject of such a person of y^e Church to studdy y^e holy
Scriptures w^{ch} gives the truest wisdom. There is the Chaire that all
y^e Arch Bishops are Inaugurated in when made Arch Bishops, its wood
with Elbows. There is another statue of a Bishop Cut out in wood, his
Robes and all well Carv’d and is ffirm and solid still, Except some
small deffaceing by y^e soldiers in y^e warre tyme, and this has stood
some 100 of yeares. There is a Chapple Called Thomas of Beckets Crown,
the Roofe being Carv’d in the fform of a Crown and painted; there is
also a pavement w^{ch} is much worne by the feete and knees off this
S^{ts} votarys that Came to do obeysance to his Shrine. There is one
Brass statue in armour but its not so bright being less regarded than
that at Warwick. Under the Cathedrall is a Large Church just Like S^t
Ffaiths under S^t Pauls in London; this is given to the Ffrench
protestants in the town for the worshipping God, it holds a vast number
of people, its as full of Seates as Can thrust by Each other, it seemed
a Little darkish, but they say when the doores are open its Light
Enough, its so well arch’d that they Cannot hear them in the Cathedrall
when singing—at least no wayes to disturb them. I went out another part
of the town thro’ a good gate and so to Dover 15 mile much up hill and
down, it was a good Road and Sort of Champion Country, yet at a distance
you see many good woods and pretty houses w^{th} Rows of trees. The
Castle at Dover is discover’d five mile off standing on the Edge of a
very steep hill on w^{ch} you ascend up to y^e tower 120 steps up,
whence you discover Callice in Ffrance. I saw the Clifts and hills
plaine, but in some Cleer dayes towards the Evening you may see the
towers and buildings of Callice, you likewise see a vast way on all
sides sea ward and to y^e Land. The Castle is Left much to decay and
ruinated only a small appartment for the Governour of three or four
Roomes, Else y^e whole is spoyl’d the floores taken up and wanscoate
pulled down. I was in the roome Queen Elizabeth was kept prisoner in
till the death of queen Mary, the balcony just by in w^{ch} she saw the
messenger Coming which she supposed was of Death to take off her head,
but proved the Messenger that brought y^e news of the Crown and Kingdom
falling to her by the death of her sister. She afterwards repaired the
Chapple but now its quite out of use, the Roofe and side being Mouldred
down in many places. There is a fine dry well in y^e Castle walled
Curiously of a vast depth, the use of it was to Discover the work of the
miners in tyme of a siege whereabout they were at worke, going down into
this well discovered y^e working by y^e shakeing y^e Earth at what side
they were at worke, and so might defeate them by a Countermine. There is
also a great well of 60 ffathom deep, the water is drawn up by a great
wheele with a horse, notwithstanding its so deep yet its also wide and
Exactly down Right, that I could see the water at the top, and when I
flung a stone w^{ch} was a pretty while descending I saw when it plashed
into y^e water. There is on y^e Plattform guns mounted w^{ch} being so
high Commands the Road so as no ship Durst saile under it. Its a mighty
steep Clift at the poynt which makes ones head Giddy to Look down to the
sea. There is one Gun of Cast Brass of a Great Length finely Carv’d and
adorn’d with ffigures, this Carrys a Ball a great way tho’ y^e bore or
muzzle of y^e Gun be not bigger than my fist, so the Ball its Charged
with Cannot be very bigg but it will do Execution a great way off; this
was made at Utriche in Holland and presented to Queen Elizabeth; its
worth a great sum of money for its Curiosity. There is a Little Cannon
of y^e same worke w^{ch} I have seen in y^e Tower at London, there is a
great Inscription on it. There are Gunns also planted in a Little ffort
at y^e ffoote of this steepe Clift to secure y^e Road from Pirates, for
as to Dover town it Looks like a place of no deffence, its a Little
place, y^e houses are Little and looks thrust together, there is a
market house and town hall, its well enough for the accomodation of the
seamen and to Supply the shipps w^{th} anything, it seems where the town
stands the sea formerly Came in and was Cover’d under water severall
fathom deep so as the shipps Ride there in harbour. The town was only
within the Limits of a wall w^{ch} Encompass’s y^e Castle of which small
matters appears, only of a great Banck and some parts of y^e Ruines of
y^e ffoundation, but y^e sea Leaving the shore so ffarre they have built
this town w^{ch} has no gates.
Thence we went to Deale 7 mile, all by the sea side w^{ch} is Called the
Downs w^{ch} sometymes is full of shipps all along the Road, but now
there were not many. The Downes seems to be so open a place and the
shoar so Easye for Landing I should think it no difficulty to Land a
good army of men in a little tyme, there is only 3 Little fforts, or
Castles they Call them, about a miles distance one to another—Warworth
at Deal, and Sandwitch which holds a few Guns, but I should think they
would be of Little Effect and give the Enemy no great trouble. Deale
Looks like a good thriveing place, y^e buildings new and neate Brickwork
with gardens. I believe they are most masters of shipps houses and
seamen or Else those that belong to y^e Cordage and Saile makeing with
other Requisites to shipping. All this Country about seemes to be a very
fruitfull soyle and full of woods. You see a many pretty towns
altogether almost, neate Churches and towers all the way you travell
from Dover to Deale on y^r Left hand, but beyond Deale you go a very
deepe heavy sand for 4 mile to Sandwich. You go along by y^e Sea side in
sight of the jsle of Thannet w^{ch} is just over against Sandwich and is
so near it you see y^e Lands and jnclosures and woods and houses. I
suppose it not a quarter of a League from Sandwich; this is a sad old
town all timber building, you Enter by a gate and so you go out of it by
a gate, but its run so to Decay that Except one or two good houses its
just like to Drop down y^e whole town.
Thence to Canterbery ten mile most thro’ Lanes. We come by my Lord
Winchelseas house, garden and parke. Y^e house is an old building—and so
I Entered Canterbery another way through another gate and observ’d all
wayes to y^e town—being from hills gives the prospect of y^e town very
finely to the Eye and Indeed it Lookes like a good Citty altogether
which way Ever you Looke on it in the approach. From thence to Maidstone
I went 9 mile back the way I Came, and on the hill 6 mile off w^{ch}
gave me so fine a sight of Canterbery as I came, did Likewise present a
pleaseing prospect as I returned; it being a very high hill Commands the
view of the Country a vast way and w^{th} such variety of woods rivers
and Inclosures and buildings that was very delicate and diverting. When
I turned off the road to Maidstone I travell’d through Lanes and woods
w^{ch} were very ffine but hid y^e sight of the Country about being so
Close; y^t it was y^e privatest Road I have travell’d. About 10 mile
short of Maidstone you ascend a very steep hill w^{ch} discovers the
whole Country at one view 40 mile off backward from whence we Came; and
a few paces on the top of y^e hill the descent of the hill on that other
side is so great a fall that gives you as full a discovery of the
Country all forward, both w^{ch} shew the variety of grounds intermixt
w^{th} Each other, and Lesser hills and plaines and Rivers w^{ch} such
advanced grounds present y^e travellers at one view; this is Called
Boxlye hills and is part of the same Ridge of hills w^{ch} runs along by
Epsome.
From Canterbery its 30 mile to Maidstone. Maidstone town is a very neate
market town as you shall see in the Country, its buildings are mostly of
timber worke, the streetes are Large. The Market Cross runs down in the
middle of the greate streete a good way, there being three divisions in
it, one good Cross for fruite, another for Corne, and another for all
sorts of things, 2 of which is built over for the town hall and publick
use. There is also a Large Gail. This streete notwithstanding the hall
and Cross stands in the midst, is yet a good breadth on Each side and
when it Comes to meete in one, is very broad and runs down a great
Length quite to the bridge Cross the Medway which is not very broad
here, yet it beares Barges that bring up burdens to the town: it seemes
to divide the town for beyond the Bridge are buildings, whole streetes
w^{ch} runs along y^e river. There are very pretty houses about the
town, looks like the habitation of Rich men. I believe its a wealthy
place, there are severall pretty streetes. This was Market day being
Thursday and it seemed to be well furnish’d w^{th} all sorts of
Commodityes and I observed there was great quantety’s of Leather but
Could not Learn what particular thing that was their staple Comodity or
tradeing in, but in Generall it seemed to be like a Little faire for the
variety of wares tho’ they told me that was not so full a Market as some
dayes because the Country people were taken up aboute their hopping so
Could not bring things to Market. Thence to Rochester 8 mile, I came by
a great many ffine hopp yards where they were at work pulling y^e hopps.
I came into Rochester at the other side, thro’ the wood on the hill I
mentioned before, from whence the town and y^e dock yards washed by the
Medway, with the shipps at anchor was as acceptable a prospect and
diverting as was y^e other on the other side. I went through y^e town
just by the great Church w^{ch} is a good building but nothing Curious:
also I went by y^e Castle wall w^{ch} is but small what remaines of it;
thence over the ffine bridge, and as I travell’d all along in sight of
the Medway to Rochester, so Next day I went in sight of the Thames. I
went that night to Gravesend w^{ch} is all by the side of Cherry grounds
that are of severall acres of ground, and Runs quite down to the Thames
w^{ch} is Convenient for to Convey the Cherrys to London, for here the
Great produce of that fruite is w^{ch} supplyes y^e town and Country
with y^e Kentish Cherrys, a good sort Fflemish fruite. I went 2 mile
beyond Gravesend w^{ch} made it in miles 9 from Rochester, to a Little
place Called Northfleete, its much in the woods. Thence I went to
Dartfford 6 mile a little neate town; thence to Shutershill 2 mile on
the top of w^{ch} hill you see a vast prospect Exactly Round it, being a
great height of ground and such a descent Every way that Commands the
sight of a vast tract of ground, w^{ch} appeares in y^e greatest
variety—some Lands Clothed w^{th} trees, others with grass and flowers,
gardens orchards w^{th} all sorts of Herbage and tillage, w^{th} y^e
severall Little towns all by y^e river Eariff, Leigh, Woolwich &c, quite
up to London, Greenwitch, Deadford, Blackwall—the Thames twisting and
turning itself up and down bearing severall vessells and men of warre on
it, and some under saile. On this part of the River I have seen 100
saile of shipps pass by in a morning which is one of the finest sights
that is; added to this you view all Blackheath, the kings parke att
Greenwitch, and a vast Country on y^t side, besides y^e places whence I
came by: turning about I Could view at Least 20 mile. This is Esteemed
as a noted Robbing place; on this hill are severall springs of water
w^{ch} Comes from Allum which are very quick purges much Like Epsome and
Dullage, but I thinke farre Exceeds Either in strength and opperation.
Thence to Greenwitch 2 mile where I ferry’d over, and observ’d one
Little shipp passed by me w^{ch} I observ’d was farr behind me in y^e
morning at Gravesend and sailed along in sight all the tyme and was
gotten before me. I fferry’d to Popler and Stepney, so to Hackney 3
mile, thence to Tatnum 2 mile, thence to Endfield 5 miles, w^{ch} is all
in Middlesex Ever since I fferryed over out of Kent. Thence to
Amwellbery 10 mile in Hartfordshire w^{ch} I Compleated in 5 days, and
went 184 miles, w^{ch} added to severall journeys I went in
Hartfordshire and twice to Amwell and to London againe w^{ch} is 76 mile
done, and y^e severall journeys at London and in Hartfordshire, Comes to
150 more miles besides the Little Rideings to take y^e aire at the parke
or Else, w^{ch} were severall miles more if added together w^{ch} I have
gone this year: but w^{th}out that it is 226 miles, so add these to my
Northern journey this yeare makes about 1045 miles of which I did not go
above a hundred in the Coach.
I being in Kent this year shall Insert something of Tunbridge. The
waters I have dranke many years w^{th} great advantage—they are from the
Steele and Iron mines, very quick springs Especially one well. There are
two w^{th} Large basons of stone fixt in y^e Earth w^{th} severall holes
in the bottom by w^{ch} the springs bubble up and fill it so as it
alwayes runns over, notwithstanding the quantety dipp’d up in a morning
which is the usual tyme the Company Comes, and the nearer they drink it
the spring y^e better, it being a spiriteous water that is ready to
Evaporate if Carry’d any way, as has been try’d by weighing the water by
the well and Carrying them but to y^e middle of the walks, it has Lost
of y^e weight, and much more the End of the whole walke: notwithstanding
many has it brought to their Lodgings a mile or two off and drink them
in their beds, nay, some have them brought to London w^{ch} is near 40
miles. They have the bottles filled and corked in the well under the
Water and so seale down the Corks w^{ch} they say preserves it. They
have made the wells very Comodious by the many good buildings all about
it and 2 or 3 mile round which are Lodgings for the Company that drinke
ye waters, and they have Encreased their buildings so much that makes
them very Cheape. All people buy their own provision at y^e market
w^{ch} is just by y^e wells and furnish’d w^{th} great plenty of all
sorts. Flesh, fowle and fish and in great plenty is brought from Rhye
and Deale &c, this being y^e road to London, so all the season the water
is drank they stop here w^{ch} makes it very Cheape, as also the Country
people Come w^{th} all their backyard and barne door affords to supply
them with, and their gardens and orchards, w^{ch} makes y^e markets well
stored and provision Cheape, w^{ch} the Gentry takes as a diversion
while drinking the waters to go and buy their dinners; it being Every
day’s market and runns the whole Length of y^e walke, w^{ch} is between
high trees on the market side for shade, and secured w^{th} a Row of
buildings on y^e Right side, w^{ch} are shopps full of all sorts of
toys, silver China, milliners and all sorts of Curious wooden ware
w^{ch} this place is noted for, (the delicate neate and thin ware of
wood both white and Lignum vitæ wood): besides w^{ch} there are two
Large Coffee houses for tea, Chocolate &c, and two Roomes for y^e
Lottery and hazard board. These are all built w^{th} an arch or pent
house beyond y^e shops, some of w^{ch} are supported by pillars like a
peason, w^{ch} is paved w^{th} brick and stone for y^e drye walking of
ye Company in raine; Else they walke w^{th} out w^{ch} is a Clay and
sand mixt together. They have been intending to make it gravell w^{ch}
would be much better. All those Conveniency’s are added by y^e Companyes
Contributions Every year—what has been and so what will be. There is at
y^e Lower End of the walke, w^{ch} is a broad space before you Come to
y^e walls of y^e wells, a Large sun-dial set upon severall steps of
stone, thence you go straight along to a Chapple w^{ch} has been built
by ye severall Collections of ye Company Every year; its a pretty place
and Cost a great deal of money, and Every year there is Contribution for
ye maintenance of a minister. There are severall buildings just about ye
well where are severall apothecary’s shops, there is also a Room for ye
post house. The post Comes Every day and returns Every day all the while
the season of drinking ye waters is, from London and to it; Except
Mondayes none Comes down from London, so on Satturdayes non goes up to
London. You pay a penny Extraordinary for being brought from tunbridge
town w^{ch} is 4 mile distance, that being a post town, you Likewise
have the Conveniency of Coaches every day from London for 8 shillings
apiece dureing the whole season, and Carriers twice a weeke.
There are severall bowling greens about y^e wells, one just at it on
Mount Sion and another up y^e hill Called Mount Ephraim where is also a
Large Chapple where the presbiterians have preaching: they have a
minister w^{ch} by y^e Collections of y^e Company is also maintained all
the winter to preach, as is the publick Chapple at the walks. There is
severall other Bowling greens at a distance off a mile or two, fitted
for Companys Lodging there, as Rust hall and Southbourough; they have
all houses to y^e greens, so the Gentlemen Bowle, the Ladies dance or
walke in y^e green in y^e afternoones, and if wet dance in the houses,
there being Musick maintained by the Company to play in the morning so
long while they drink the waters, and in y^e afternoon for danceing.
There are severall good taverns at the walks and all about to supply
good wine and Brewhouses for beer and Bakers for Bread, but some of them
Come from London and spoyle the market by raiseing y^e price—so the
higlers and Hucksters in a great measure. This whole Country is full of
stone and jron, the Earth is Clay and Sand. About 3 mile off there is a
good seate of the Lord Lesters Spenshurst w^{ch} stands in a very good
parke; the house is but old—Large roomes and stone staires and windows,
a good hall and gallery full of good old pictures, and other roomes of
state; no ffurniture but old tapistry hangings. You have a most pleasant
prospect as you go to it and from it, of valeys Cover’d with woods of
great Length, and hills beyond on the other side. About 3 or 4 miles off
is a seate of the Lord Abergauneys w^{ch} is Lord of the manour in a
parke and fine woods all about it, the most of the Country is woody.
There is 4 or 5 miles off a place they Cast Gunns, there being a great
store of oare all over the Country: its a great Charge and Continuall
attendance. When they have Lighted y^e fire for to Cast bells or guns
they must be Cautiously blowing, and y^e mettle will be apt to fall down
on the nose of y^e bellows and harden; that if it be not still Cleared
off would quickly damm up the fire and put it out. There are severall
good houses all about and a pleasant place to Ride in in y^e summer and
dry weather, but a sad deep impassable Road when much Raine has fallen.
As I was Rideing about I took a view of y^e Country in many parts. There
is a Little rivulet just by the wells w^{ch} divides y^e Countys so that
y^e buildings are some in Kent some in Sussex.
About ffaint 4 or 5 mile off is a house of Lord Abergauny and parkes and
much woods about it. Another way by Lakington Green and Groombridge
about 4 mile off is an old house in a parck, pretty Large, Called
Ashurst w^{ch} they say belonged to Alderman Ashurst family, but hurst
w^{ch} signifyes grove or wood is a name all here about, as Spenshurst
Lord Lesters house 4 mile another way in a good Parke and Speldhurst
another parish 2 or 3 mile off and Goodhurst about 12 mile off the
Wells. I went by Calvery plaine and Woods gate and so to a Little Market
town Called Branklye; the way is much thro’ Lanes, being an Enclosed
Country for the most part, w^{ch} is the Cause of these names as is much
of Sussex w^{ch} joyns to Kent; there are places Called Billingshurst
and Medhurst and Pendhurst &c. This Goodhurst I went to stands on a
great hill and is seen severall miles, 2 mile from y^e first ascent
w^{ch} is at a Little village belonging to it, and to y^e top of y^e
hill w^{ch} is y^e middle of y^e place. Its a pretty Large place—old
timber houses, but y^e Extent of y^e parish is neare ten miles. They are
a sort of yeomanry Gentry, about 2 or 3 or 400£ a year and Eate and
drink well and Live Comfortably and Hospitably.
The old proverb was a yeoman of Kent w^{th} one years rent Could buy out
y^e Gentlemen of Wales and knight of Sscales and a Lord of y^e North
Country—his Estate was so much better. All in these parts are the same
Minerall waters being much on Iron mines. I returned againe to tunbridge
wells the 12 mile, then I went from thence to Sumerhill about 4 or 5
mile off, thro’ much woods and lanes and some pleasant shades of Lofty
trees. This is a seate of y^e last viscount Purbecks—stands on a hill in
a good Large parke, built of stone and Lookes in good repaire for y^e
most part, and good Large Roomes and Staircases and abundance of good
sizeable Roomes Leading one out of another in visto’s thro’ the house,
something Like our new way of building and Lofty Enough. Its Capable of
being very fine w^{th} visto’s of walks Cut through and across a great
many, which delights the Rider or walker being so shady w^{th} Lofty
trees. There is remains of a bowling green w^{ch} is an advanced piece
of ground above all the rest and discovers the Country a great Circuite
round; then we returned to the wells againe 5 mile.
Then I went from y^e wells to Rye 31 miles, by Ambursly 8 mile—this was
good way being a drye summer, otherwise its deep being Clay for y^e most
part. I passed much through Lanes and little villages and near Rye I
went thro’ a Comon full of Bushes and ffurze and heath; its a pretty
steep hill I ascended w^{ch} is Called beggars hill and being
Bartholomew tide here was a faire w^{ch} was Rightly Called beggarhill
faire being the saddest faire I ever saw—ragged tatter’d Booths and
people—but the musick and danceing Could not be omitted. This hill on
the top gave the view of y^e sea and a great tract of Land on Each side.
That is Choak’d up w^{th} sand w^{ch} formerly was a good haven for
shipps; the sea does still Come up to Rhye town as yet but its shallow,
and y^e Castle w^{ch} stands a Little distance—a mile—is also left of
the sea at least 4 mile. This is Winchelsea Castle but all between it
and Winchelsea is nothing but Quagmire and marshes, drained in some
places by ditches, and this is at Least 4 miles to the town. I did go to
it but first fferry’d over a Little arm of the sea w^{ch} still finds a
Current up to some of y^e Land between Rhye and Winchelsea, then I rode
round y^e marshes on y^e side of a hill in narrow foote paths, and
passed over a Bridge Cross another Little arme of y^e sea: near it is a
gate on y^e Bridge and Enters you into the Libertys of y^e town w^{ch}
stands on a pretty high hill. From it Lookes not of any great Circuite
of ground by y^e first view, being high, but in y^e middle you see it
has been a fine place for there were 36 Large Squares of building, the
remaines of pieces of walls in most places you see, or else a hedge
supplys that you see y^e streetes were very broad and long and divided
these squares, ye Cross streetes y^e same. I rode up a middle streete
and saw y^e others run aCross of Equal breadth. Remaines of Churches and
halls are to be seen but Else grass grows now where Winchelsea was as
was once said of Troy. There are but a very few houses now, but y^e
Corporation still Continues and y^e major and aldermen w^{ch} 13 makes
most of y^e Inhabitants. M^r Majors house Look’d neate as did y^e
parsonage. They Elect two Burgesses to it in y^e parliament and its y^e
ancientest Corporation in England, so y^t should Lord Major of London
meete M^r Major of Winchelsea he must give him place: it was as
flourishing place before the sea Left it that was in England, but now
lost, as Rhye will be in a Little tyme if the sea Leaves it, w^{ch} is
in a very faire way to do; and men now apply to quite Drane the marshes
for Corn and grass Rather than Endeavour to Cleare y^e Channell of the
sand w^{ch} if it were done would be y^e best harbour for shipps as
formerly was. There are great vaults in Winchelsea w^{ch} was the
merchants Cellars, and were houses.
There was some few brass and marble statues in the Church but much
demolished as was y^e Church. Rhye town is not very bigg—a little Market
place—this is famous for fish; from hence all the good turbutt, pearle
and Dorea and all sort of sea fish Comes to supply y^e wells and London,
but I could get little. Y^e faire took up y^e ffishermen. Indeed here I
dranke Right french white wine and Exceeding good and then returned to
y^e wells 38 miles. In the Road from thence to London you go either by
Fair lane and so Come just by S^r Harry Vaines house (now Lord Barnett),
w^{ch} Lookes very finely w^{th} y^e Rows of trees about it, or Else you
go by Sevenoake a sad deep Clay way after wett. You Come in sight of a
great house on a hill Called Summerly, looks like a Little town it runs
on so much ground, it was the Lord Purbeckes.
You also Come in sight of Nonsuch w^{ch} was a great house of the Kings
Built by Charles the Second. You pass on to the Riverhead as they Call
it, a fine spring of Cleare water y^t runs thence in a Little River. is
at the foote of a great hill Called Madam Scott hill so steepe as
seldome is Either Rode down or up, and few Coaches but gaines the top of
it by a Compass round it w^{ch} is steep Enough. This is 15 mile from
the wells—thence to Ffarnburough: about 8 mile, thence to Brumley, and
to London 15 more.
_MY GREAT JOURNEY TO NEWCASTLE
AND TO CORNWALL_,
the account of many journeys into most parts of England, what
observation and distance of one place to another in my travels.
Ffrom London to Albins in Essex 17 mile S^r Robert abdys, Whose house
stands very pleasantly in a parke full of deer. The house on an advanced
ground appeares to view at y^e Entrance, but its old building: Large
Roomes—some Rows of trees Lead up to it. Thence I returned home 17 mile
more, from London to Bednal-green twice, and back againe 16 mile, from
London to Highgate 4 miles to M^r Thomas’s house, where is a most exact
garden w^{th} all sorts of greens and flowers and fish ponds. There my
Nephew Ffiennes Harrison w^{th} M^r Showers went to fish w^{th} me.
Thence we went to Hampstead, so made it 5 mile home againe. I went from
London twice and back againe from Kensington, in all 8 mile—this I put
in only to know the number of miles y^t I went in one yeare.
Ffrom London to Amwell bery w^{ch} is in Hartfordshire 19 mile, where I
staid a day or two: thence to Bishopstafford in Essex 13 mile, thence to
Dunmew 8 long miles thro’ severall Little villages; its very deep way
Especially after raine. This is a Little Market town: they are
altogether taken up about the spinning and prepareing for the Bayes. All
along between that and Colchester you pass but halfe a mile Ere one
Comes to two or 3 houses all along the road; its from Dunmow to
Colchester 22 miles and mostly Clay deep way. Colchester is a Large town
in the Compass of Ground. Fformerly there was 16 Churches tho’ now much
of it is ruinated. A mile before you Come to the new town one Enters a
little village which still is in the Limits of y^e Citty and Majors
jurisdiction; there is a pretty good house of y^e Lord Lucas.
You Enter the town by a gate; there are 4 in all; there is a Large
Streete w^{ch} runs a great Length down to the bridge, near a mile long:
about the middle of it runs another broad streete and near its Length
like stalls on purpose to Lay their Bayes when exposed to saile. Great
quantetyes are made here and sent in Bales to London that is 44 miles
distant. Y^e whole town is Employ’d in spinning weaveing, washing drying
and dressing their Bayes in w^{ch} they seeme very Industrious. There I
saw y^e Card they use to Comb and dress the Bayes, w^{ch} they Call y^m
testles, w^{ch} are a kind of Rush tops or something Like them w^{ch}
they put in frames or Laths of wood. The town Looks Like a thriveing
place by the substantiall houses and well pitched streetes w^{ch} are
broad Enough for two Coaches to go a breast, besides a pitch’d walke on
Either side by y^e houses secured by stumps of wood, and is Convenient
for 3 to walke together. Their buildings are of timber of Loame and
Lathes and much tileing: the fashion of the Country runs much in Long
Roofes and great Cantilivers and peakes. Out of these great streetes
runs many Little streetes, but not very narrow—mostly old buildings
Except a few houses builded by some Quakers, y^t are brick and of the
London mode. The town did Extend itself to the sea but now its ruines
sets it 3 mile off. Y^e low Grounds all about y^e town are used for y^e
whitening their Bayes for w^{ch} this town is remarkable, and also for
Exceeding good oysters, but its a dear place and to Grattifye my
Curiosity to Eate them on y^e place I paid dear. Its a town full of
Dessenters, 2 meeteings very full besides anabaptists and quakers.
Formerly the famous M^r Stockton was minister there till he Dyed. From
Colchester to jpswitch is 10 mile, and thence to Dedom 9 miles, the way
pretty good Except 4 or 5 miles they Call y^e severalls, a sort of deep
moore Ground and woody. At this place I passed over a wooden bridge,
pretty Large, w^{th} timber railes of w^{ch} make they build their
bridges in these parts; and now I go into Suffolk w^{ch} is not so rich
Land as y^e part of Essex I passed through, w^{ch} was meadows and
grounds w^{th} great burdens of grass and Corn. So I went to jpswitch 9
mile more; this is a very Clean town and much bigger than Colchester is
now. Ipswitch has 12 Churches, their streetes of a good size well
pitch’d w^{th} small stones; a good market Cross railed in. I was there
on Satturday w^{ch} is their market day and saw they sold their Butter
by y^e pinte 20 ounces for 6 pence and often for 5^d or 4^d; they make
it up in a mold just in the shape of a pinte pot and so sell it. Their
Market Cross has good Carving, y^e ffigure of justice Carv’d and Gilt.
There is but 3 or 4 good houses in y^e town—y^e rest is much Like y^e
Colchester buildings, but it seems more shatter’d, and Indeed the town
Looks a Little disregarded, and by Enquiry found it to be thro’ pride
and sloth, for tho’ the sea would bear a ship of 300 tun up quite to y^e
Key, and y^e ships of y^e first Rate Can Ride w^{th} in two mile of the
town, yet they make no advantage thereof by any sort of manufacture,
w^{ch} they might do as well as Colchester and Norwitch, so that y^e
shipps that brings their Coales goes Light away, neither do they address
themselves to victual or provide for shipps. They have a Little dock
where formerly they built ships of 2 or 3 tun, but now Little or Nothing
is minded save a Little ffishing for y^e supply of y^e town. There is
one pretty good house of y^e Earle of Herrifords that marry’d one of M^r
Norborns Daughters, that was Killed by S^r Tho: Montgomery. You Enter
thro’ two Courts walled and divided by a breast wall on w^{ch} are Iron
spikes pallasadoes: the Middle is a broad gravell walk fenced in w^{th}
stone walls; on Each side 3 or 4 steps up into the other Court, and so
many steps more thro’ an arch into a third Court. This arch joyns a Low
building w^{ch} are the offices Leaded on the top, and rail’d round, and
Each End Enters into Chambers joyning to y^e house, that is built round
this Last Court from whence you Enter y^e porch. The house is handsome
all brick worke and brick pillars; a good hall, parlour, and drawing
roome, and Large Closet, 2 or 3 other Roomes less, answereing it and a
Billyard Roome above w^{th} as many roomes of state all ffurnish’d
w^{th} good old things: a pretty staircase, but its all Little. There
are 3 gardens on the one side w^{th} grass and gravell walkes all kept
neate, and good fruite; on the other side is one Large garden w^{th} a
sumer house in w^{ch} stands a Large statue, black, of a Gigantick form
and proportion; this answeres the fine green house on y^e other side.
This town has many dessenters in it. Thence I went to Woodbridge 7 miles
mostly Lanes, Enclosed Countrys. This is a Little Market town but has a
great meeting for y^e dessenters. Thence to Wickham 5 mile more but
these are all very Long miles.
Thence to Saxmunday 8 miles more: this is a pretty bigg market town. The
wayes are pretty deep, mostly Lanes very Little Commons. I pass’d by
severall Gentlemens seates, one, M^r Dormers w^{ch} stands in a fine
parke. Y^e Entrance from y^e Road thro’ rows of trees Discover’d the
front and building very finely to view, being built w^{th} stone and
Brick and many sashes: Lookes like a new house w^{th} y^e open jron barr
gates between pillars of stone the breadth of y^e house. So to Bathfort
8 miles where is the remaines of y^e walls of an abby and there is still
a very fine Church all Carv’d in stone hollow work one tire above
another to y^e tower that ascends not very high but finely Carv’d: also
hence I descended with Low^r grounds banck’d on Each side w^{th} a brick
wall, but Low and so a walk on it for foote people, and severall arches
here and there to draine off the water, so that those bancks are to
secure the Road from the Marshy ffenny water that of a great Extent on
both sides is subject to. Thence I passed by some woods and Little
villages of a few scattered houses, and Generally y^e people here are
able to give so bad a Direction that passengers are at a loss what aime
to take: they know scarce 3 mile from their home, and meete them where
you will and Enquire how farre to such a place they mind not where they
are then, but tell you so farre, w^{ch} is the distance from their own
houses to y^t place. I saw at a distance as I descended some of their
hills a Large place that Look’d nobly and stood very high Like a Large
town. They told me it was called Either Stowle or Nole I cannot tell
w^{ch}. I Rode in sight of S^t Georges Channell In the way from
Colchester and Ipswitch and so to Norwich. Sometymes it was in view then
Lost againe. To Beckle is 8 mile more w^{ch} in all was 36 miles from
Ipswitch, but Exceeding Long miles; they do own they are 41 measured
miles. This is a Little market town but its the third biggest town in
y^e County of Suffolke—Ipswitch Berry and this. Here was a good big
meeteing place at Least 400 hearers and they have a very good minister
one M^r Killinghall; he is but a young man but seemed very serious. I
was there y^e Lords day. S^r Robert Rich is a great supporter of them
and Contributed to y^e building the meeteing place w^{ch} is very neate.
He has a good house at y^e End of the town w^{th} fine gardens. There
are no good buildings the town, being old timber and plaister work
Except his and one or two more. There is a pretty bigg market Cross, and
a great Market kept. There is a handsome stone built Church and a very
good publick minister whose name is Armstrong: he preaches very well
they say notwithstanding the town is a sad Jacobitish town. This Chooses
no parliam^t men. At y^e towns End one passes over the river Waveny on a
wooden bridg railed w^{th} timber and so you Enter into Norfolk: its a
Low flatt ground all here about, so that the Least raines they are
overflowed by y^e River and Lye under water as they did when I was
there, so that the roade Lay under water w^{ch} is very unsafe for
strangers to pass by reason of y^e holes and quicksands and Loose
bottom. The ordinary people both in Suffolk and Norfolk knitt much and
spin, some w^{th} y^e Rock and fusoe as the French does, others at their
wheeles out in the streete and Lanes as one passes. Its from this town
to Norwitch 12 miles, and its 10 to Yarmouth where they build some small
shipps, and is a harbour for them and where they victual them. Also
Harwitch about 12 or 14 miles also, but the miles are here as long again
as about London and pretty deep way, Especially after raines: these
miles are much Longer than most miles in Yorkshire.
Norwitch opens to view a mile distance by the help of a hill whereon is
a little village. As I observe most of y^e great towns and Cittys have
about them Little villages as attendants or appendix’s to them w^{ch}
are a sort of Subburbs, there being stragling houses for y^e most part
all the way between y^t and y^e gates. You pass over a high bridge y^t
leads on over a high Causey of a pretty Length w^{ch} Lookes somewhat
dangerous being fenced with trenches from its bancks (pretty deep)
that’s on both sides to secure it from the water, and these trenches
runns in many places round the Low grounds to drain them, w^{ch}
Employ’d to whiten and Bleach their woollen stuff the manufacture of the
place. This Long Causey brings you to the Large stone bridge over the
river into w^{ch} those trenches Empty themselves.
Then you proceed to the Citty w^{ch} is walled round full of towers
Except on the river side w^{ch} serves for the wall. They seeme y^e best
in repaire of any walled Citty I know tho’ in some places there are
little breaches, but the Carving and battlements and towers Lookes well.
I enter’d the west gate. There are 12 gates in all and 36 Churches,
which is to be seen in a Clear Day altogether on the Castle walls—I told
30 myself there. They are built all of flints well headed or Cut w^{ch}
makes them Look blackish and shineing. The streetes are all well pitch’d
w^{th} small stones and very Clean, and many very broad streetes: y^t I
Entred in first was very broad for 2 Coaches or Carts to pass on Either
side, and in the middle was a great well house w^{th} a wheele to wind
up the water for the good of y^e publick. A Little further is a Large
pond walled up w^{th} brick a mans height w^{th} an Entrance on one End.
A Little farther was a building on which they were at work, design’d for
a water house to supply y^e town by pipes into their houses w^{th}
water. At a Little distance was another such a pond walled in as I
described before. These things fill up the middle of this spacious
streete w^{ch} is for use and also ornament, y^e spaces Each side being
so broad. This brings you into a broad space Called the Hay market
w^{ch} is on a hill, a very steep descent all well pitch’d as before:
this Comes to another space for a market to sell hoggs in, and opens
farther into divisions of buildings that begins severall streetes y^t
runs off good Lengths and are of a tollerable size. One runs along
behind w^{ch} is all for stalls for y^e Country butchers that bring
their meate for y^e supply of y^e town, w^{ch} pay such a Rent for them
to y^e town. On y^e other side are houses of y^e town butchers, y^e
Inhabitants: by it is a Large market for fish, w^{ch} are all at a
Little distance from y^e heart of y^e Citty, so is not annoy’d w^{th}
them. There is a very Large market place and hall and Cross for fruite
and little things Every day, and also a place under pillars for y^e Corn
market.
The building round here is Esteemed y^e best and here is the town Hall,
but all their buildings are of an old form, mostly in deep poynts and
much tileing as has been observ’d before, and they playster on Laths
w^{ch} they strike out into squares like broad free stone on y^e
outside, w^{ch} makes their fronts Look pretty well; and some they build
high and Contract y^e roofes resembling the London houses, but none of
brick Except some few beyond the river w^{ch} are built of some of y^e
Rich factors like y^e London buildings. There is in y^e middle of y^e
town the Duke of Norfolks house of Brick and stone, w^{th} severall
towers and turrets and balls y^t Looks well, w^{th} Large gardens, but
y^e Inside is all demolished only y^e walls stand and a few Roomes for
offices but nothing of state or tollerable for use.
On y^e Castle hill you see y^e whole Citty at once, being built round
it: its a vast place and takes up a Large tract of ground, its 6 miles
in Compass.
Here is the County hall and Goale where y^e assizes are held and y^e
Sessions. Nothing of y^e Castle remaines but a green space, and under it
is also a Large space for y^e beast market, and 3 tymes in y^e year is
there a very great faire kept to w^{ch} resort a vaste Concourse of
people, and wares—a full trade. Y^e whole Citty Lookes Like what it is,
a Rich thriveing Industrious place; Satturday is their great market day.
They have beside y^e town hall a hall distinct w^{ch} is the scaleing
hall where their stuffs are all measured, and if they hold their
breadths and Lengths they are scaled, but if they are deffective there
is a fine Layd on y^e owner and a private marke on y^e stuff w^{ch}
shews its defficiency.
There was also y^e mint which they Coyn’d, but since the old money is
all new Coyn’d into mill’d money, that Ceases. Here there is a ffine
large Cathedrall and very Loftly, but nothing remarkable of monuments or
else: by it is 3 hospitalls for boys girls and old people who spinn
yarne, as does all y^e town besides for y^e Crapes, Callimancos and
damaskes w^{ch} is y^e whole business of the place. Indeed they are
arrived to a great perfection in worke, so fine and thinn and glossy;
their pieces are 27 yards in Length and their price is from 30 shillings
to 3 pound as they are in ffineness. A man Can weave 13 yards a day, I
saw some weaveing; they are all Employ’d in spinning, knitting weaveing,
dying, scouring or bleaching stuffs. Their hospitalls are well provided
for; there are 32 women in one as many men in y^e other, there is also a
good free schoole. There is a great many Cerimonyes in y^e Choice and
Swearing their major: they Elect him the first day of May and y^n
prepare for his being sworne on Holly Thursday. They new washe and
plaister their houses w^{th} in and without w^{ch} they strike out in
squares like free stone. All y^e streete in w^{ch} this mayor Elect’s
house, is very exact in beautifying themselves and hanging up flaggs y^e
Coull^{rs} of their Companyes, and dress up pageants and there are
playes and all sorts of show that day—in Little what is done at y^e Lord
major of London show. Then they have a great feast w^{th} fine flaggs
and scenes hung out, musick and danceing. I was in y^e hall they keep
their feast in and saw some of their preparations: for that day being
about a fortnight to it. The town is a mile and a halfe from y^e North
to y^e South gate. Just by one of y^e Churches there is a wall made of
flints that are headed very finely and Cut so exactly square and Even to
shutt in one to another that y^e whole wall is made without Cement at
all they say, but it appears to be very little if any morter; it Looks
well, very smooth shineing and black.
A great many descenters are in this Citty, the Gentlewoman that was my
acquaintance there dyed 10 dayes before I came thither so I made no
great stay there but to see about y^e town.
Thence I went to Windham a Little market town 5 miles, mostly on a
Causey y^e Country being Low and moorish, and y^e Road on y^e Causey was
in many places full of holes tho’ its secured by a barr at which
passengers pay a penny a horse in order to the mending y^e way, for all
about is not to be Rode on Unless its a very dry summer. Thence we went
mostly through Lanes where you meete y^e ordinary people knitting 4 or 5
in a Company under the hedges. To Attlborough, 5 mile more to a Little
village, still finding the Country full of spinners and Knitters: thence
to Thetford 6 miles more, w^{ch} was formerly a large place but now much
decay’d and the ruines only shews it dimentions. There is a very high
hill quite round stands up on one side of it and Can scarcely be
ascended so steep. Here I Lay, w^{ch} is still in Norfolk. Next day I
went to Euston Hall w^{ch} was y^e Lord arlingtons and by his only
daughters marriage w^{th} y^e Duke of Grafton is his sons by her. Its
two mile from thetford, it stands in a Large parke 6 miles about. Y^e
house is a Roman H of brick: 4 towers w^{th} balls on them; the windows
are Low and not sashes Else y^e roomes are of a good size and height, a
good stair case full of good pictures, a Long gallery hung w^{th}
pictures at Length, on y^e one side the Royal family from K: Henry y^e
7^{th} by y^e Scottish race, his Eldest daughter down to y^e present
King William and his queen Mary. The other side are forreign princes
from y^e Emperour of Moroccoe, y^e Northern and Southern princes and
Emperour of Germany. There is a square in y^e middle where stands a
billiard table, hung w^{th} outlandish pictures of Heroes; there is
Count Egmint and Horn &c &c, but y^e End of y^e Roome is y^e Duke and
Dutchess of Grafton’s picture at length. Thence I enter’d into dineing
and drawing roome and bed Chambers of a very good size and good fret
work on y^e Cieling: in one of the roomes was y^e Dutchess of
Cleavelands picture in a sultaness dress, the Duke of Grafton being King
Charles y^e seconds base son by her. There was also another picture of
y^e Royal family. K Charles y^e firsts 5 Children altogether. I have
often seen 3 w^{ch} was K: Charles y^e second, K: James and y^e Princess
of Orange; but here was also y^e Lady Elizabeth and y^e Duke of
Glocester a Little Infant on a pillow. In another place there is the
queen mothers picture the Lady Henrietta drawn Large. There is a fine
hall and parlour below pav’d w^{th} free stone. There are good gardens
w^{th} fountaines and some stone statutes, a Cannall by y^e side, a
Large Court at y^e Entrance w^{th} 3 Iron barr gates w^{ch} open to y^e
ffront, divided w^{th} stone pillars and balls. Y^e Court w^{th} out is
walled round and y^e wall is Carry’d a great Length round y^e back
yards. Within this is another Court w^{th} Iron spike pallasadoes
divided Every 2 or 3 yards by little stone pillars with balls. There are
severall Rows of trees runs of a great length thro’ the parke a visto to
y^e front of y^e house, w^{ch} lookes nobly tho’ not just of y^e new
modell’d way of building. At y^e back gate I crossed over y^e river
Waveney w^{ch} is y^e division of y^e two County’s and enter’d Suffolk
and pass’d over perfect downs, Champion Country just like Salisbery
plaine; and y^e winds have a pretty power here and blows strongly in y^e
winter not well to be Endured.
So to S^t Edmundsbery 8 mile, but as has been often observ’d before, the
miles are very long. I pass’d by two or 3 Little villages, and about 2
mile off there is y^e town of St Edm^{ds} Bury w^{ch} appeares standing
on a great hill, y^e towers and buildings Look so Compact and well
together w^{th} the trees and gardens thick about it y^e prospect was
wonderfully pleasant. A mile off by a little village I descended a hill
which made y^e prospect of y^e town still in view and much to advantage,
its but two parishes. Y^e market Cross has a dyal and Lanthorn on y^e
top, and there being another house pretty Close to it high built w^{th}
such a tower and lanthorn also, w^{th} y^e two Churches towers and some
other buildings pretty good, made it appear nobly at a distance. This
high house is an apothecarys—at least 60 stepps up from y^e ground and
gives a pleaseing prospect of ye whole town. Severall streetes but no
good buildings Except this, the rest are great old houses of timber and
mostly of y^e old forme of y^e Country w^{ch} are long peaked roofes of
tileing. This house is the new mode of building; 4 roomes of a floore
pretty sizeable and high, well furnish’d, a drawing roome and Chamber
full of China and a damaske bed Embroyder’d: 2 other Roomes, Camlet and
Mohaire beds; a pretty deale of plaite in his wives Chambers and
parlours below, and a large shop. He is esteem’d a very Rich man. He
shewed me a Curiosity of an Herball all written out w^{th} Every sort of
tree and herb dryed and Cut out and pasted on the Leaves; it was a
doctor of Physicks work that left it him a Legacy at his Death, it was a
fine thing and would have delighted me severall dayes but I was passant.
There was two streetes were broad and very Long, out of w^{ch} ran a
Cross 5 or 6 streetes more w^{ch} are as good as in most Country
towns—they are well pitch’d w^{th} small stones. There are many
descenters in y^e town—4 meeteing places w^{th} y^e Quakers and
anabaptists. There is only the ruines of y^e abby walls and the fine
gate at the Entrance that remaines—stone, well Carv’d. It seemes to be a
thriveing Industrious town; 4 gates in it.
There are a great deale of Gentry w^{ch} Lives in y^e town, tho’ there
are no good houses but w^{ch} are old and rambling ones. They are in
that they Call the green, a space by y^e Churches w^{ch} are pretty near
together. They are pretty Large but nothing Curious in them—stone
buildings—no monuments worth notice. They keep them very Clean and neate
and have a moveable scaffold to Clean the roofe and windows and walls.
Its a very dear place, so much Company Living in the town makes
provision scarce and dear: however its a good Excuse to raise the
Reckoning on strangers.
Thence I went to admiral Russells who is now Lord orfford, a long 10
mile, and Loseing my way made it 12 mile; its pretty good way. I passed
by a village or two, and in a mile of Lord orffords house I Enter
Cambridgeshire, w^{ch} stands 3 mile from New market. You Ride in sight
of New market heath where the Races are—its good Road; here are severall
good gardens well kept good gravell and green walks w^{th} fine greens
and flowers, walled in and all the outhouses very handsome. A Coach yard
and stables in the middle of w^{ch} is a Large gate into y^e ground, and
built over w^{th} a high lanthorn where hangs the Clock and bell: this
stands higher than y^e house like a tower; y^e house being a flatt Roofe
leaded and railed round full of Chimneys, but this tower I saw 10 mile
off. All y^e out offices built round a Court very handsome. The hall is
very noble paved w^{th} free stone, a squaire of black marble at Each
Corner of y^e freestone: there are two fine white marble tables veined
w^{th} bleu; its wanscoated w^{th} wall nut tree, the pannells and Rims
round w^{th} mulbery tree y^t is a Lemon Coullour, and y^e moldings
beyond it round are of a sweete outlandish wood not much differing from
Cedar but of a finer Graine, the Chaires are all the same: its hung
w^{th} pictures att full proportion of y^e Royal family all in their
Coronation Robes, from Charles the first to his Majesty w^{th} y^e Queen
also, and at the End is Prince George and Princess Ann in their Robes of
Crimson velvet and Dukes Coronet as Duke and Dutchess of Cumberland. The
whole house is finely furnish’d w^{th} differing Coull^d Damaske and
velvets, some ffigured and others plaine, at Least 6 or 7 in all Richly
made up after a new mode. In y^e best drawing roome was a very Rich
hanging gold and silver and a Little scarlet, mostly tissue and brocade
of gold and silver and border of green damaske round it; y^e window
Curtain y^e same green damaske round it y^e window Curtain y^e same
green damaske, and doore Curtains. There was no Looking-glass but on y^e
Chimney piece and just opposite in y^e place a Looking glass used to be
was 4 pannells of glass in Length and 3 in breadth set together in y^e
wanscoate. Y^e same was in another drawing roome w^{ch} was for my Lord.
The dining roome had this Looking glass on y^e top peers between the
three windows; it was from y^e top to y^e bottom 2 pannells in breadth
and 7 in Length so it shews one from top to toe. The roomes were all
well wanscoated and hung and there was y^e finest Carv’d wood in
fruitages, herbages, gumms, beasts, fowles &c. very thinn and fine all
in white wood w^{th} out paint or varnish. Y^e severall sorts of things
thus Carv’d were Exceeding naturall all round. The Chimney pieces and
y^e sconces stand on Each side the Chimney, and the glasses in those
Chambers where were Loose Looking-glasses, w^{ch} were w^{th} fine
Carv’d head and frames some of the naturall wood others Gilt, but they
were y^e largest Looking-glasses I Ever saw. There was a great flower
pott Gilt Each side the Chimney in the dineing Roome for to sett trees
in. Y^e great Curiosity of this wood Carving about y^e Doores Chimneys
and sconces, together w^{th} y^e great Looking Glass pannells is much
talked of and is y^e finest and most in quantety and numbers thats to be
seen any where. There is very fine China and silver things and irons and
jarrs and perfume potts of silver. Y^e common Roomes are all new,
Convenient and neate with Double doores lined to prevent noises. Y^e
Stair Case is wanscoated, very noble, fine Pictures, there is y^e battle
at la Hogue a Large sea piece w^{th} an jnscription of y^e admiralls
valour when y^e great ship y^e Gunn was burnt and mightily valued by y^e
ffrench King.
From thence I went 8 mile to Ely w^{ch} were as long as the 12 I Came
from S^t Edmondsbery, y^e wayes being very deep; its mostly Lanes and
Low moorish ground on Each Side deffended by y^e ffendiks w^{ch} are
deep ditches w^{th} draines. Y^e ffenns are full of water and mudd these
also Encompass their grounds, Each mans part 10 or a dozen acres a piece
or more, so these dieks are the fences. On Each side they plant willows
so there is 2 rows of trees runns round y^e ground w^{ch} Looks very
finely to see a flatt of many miles so planted but it must be ill to
Live there. All this while Ely minster is in one’s view at a mile
distant you would think, but go, it is a Long 4 miles. A mile distant
from y^e town is a Little Hamlet from w^{ch} I descended from a steep
hill and so Cross a bridge over water w^{ch} Enters into y^e Island of
Ely, and so you pass a flatt on a Gravel Causey w^{ch} way y^e Bishop is
at y^e Charge to repaire Else there would be no passing in y^e summer.
This is secured by some dikes w^{ch} surround more grounds as y^e
former, full of Rows of trees and willows round them w^{ch} makes Ely
looke finely through those trees, and y^t stands very high. In the
winter this Caussey is over flowed and they have no way but boates to
pass in. They Cut peate out of some of these grounds. The raines now had
fallen so as in some places near y^e Citty y^e Caussey was Covered, and
a Remarkable deliverance I had, for my horse Earnest to drinke ran to
get more depth of water than y^e Caussey had, was on y^e brinke of one
of these dikes, but by a speciall providence w^{ch} I desire never to
forget and allways to be thankfull for, Escaped. Y^e bridge was over the
River Linn w^{ch} Comes from Norfolke and does almost Encompass the
jsland of Ely w^{ch} is 20 mile in bigness, in w^{ch} are severall
Little towns as Wisbech and many others. There is another River that
joyns w^{th} y^e Linn w^{ch} Compasses this land into an jsland. At this
bridge is a gate, but by reason of y^e great raines y^e roades were full
of water, even quite to y^e town w^{ch} you ascend a very steep hill
into, but y^e dirtyest place I ever saw, not a bitt of pitching in y^e
streetes, so its a perfect quagmire y^e whole Citty, only just about y^e
palace and Churches the streetes are well enough for breadth, but for
want of pitching it seemes only a harbour to breed and nest vermine in
of w^{ch} there is plenty Enough, so that tho’ my Chamber was near 20
Stepps up I had froggs and slow worms and snailes in my Roome, but
suppose it was brought up w^{th} y^e faggotts. But it Cannot but be
jnfested w^{th} all such things being altogether moorish ffenny ground
w^{ch} Lyes Low: it is true were the Least Care taken to pitch their
streetes it would make it Looke more properly an habitation for human
beings and not a Cage or nest of unclean Creatures. It must needs be
very unhealthy tho’ the natives say much to the Contrary w^{ch} proceeds
from Custom and use, otherwise to persons born in up and dry Countryes
it must destroy them Like Rotten sheep in Consumptions and Rhums.
The Bishop does not Care to stay long in this place not being for his
health; he is the Lord of all the jsland, has the Command and y^e
jurisdiction. They have lost their Charter and so are no Corporation but
all things are directed by the Bishop and its a shame he does not see it
better ordered and y^e buildings and streetes put in a better Condition.
They are a slothful people and for little but y^e takeing Care of their
Grounds and Cattle w^{ch} is of vast advantage. Where the yeares prove
drye they gaine so much that in Case 6 or 7 wet yeares drown them all
over, the one good yeare sufficiently Repaires their loss.
There is a good palace for the Bishop built of stone, but it was
unfurnished. There are two Churches; Ely minster is a Curious pile of
Building all of stone, the outside full of Carvings and great arches and
fine pillars in the front, and the jnside has the greatest variety and
neatness in the works. There are two Chappels most Exactly Carved in
stone all sorts of figures, Cherubims Gilt and painted in some parts.
Y^e Roofe of one Chappell was one Entire stone most delicately Carved,
and hung down in great poynts all about y^e Church. The pillars are
Carv’d and painted w^{th} y^e history of y^e bible, Especially the new
testament and description of Christs miracles. The Lanthorn in y^e quire
is vastly high and delicately painted and fine Carv’d worke all of wood,
in it the bells used to be hung, five, the dimention of y^e biggest was
so much when they rung them it shooke y^e quire so and y^e Carv’d worke
that it was thought unsafe, therefore they were taken down. Its 80 odd
steps to the top of y^e Lanthorn and 160 steps round in Compass. There
are very good monuments and abundance of niches in the walls where
Statues have been; there is one of white marble Laying at length and so
Exactly Cut y^t y^e hand lookes Extreamely natural, the sinewes and
veines and every turn of y^e fingers so finely done as to appear very
proper. There is another that was a Bishop made by Queen Elizabeth whose
garments and all are marble and so finely Embroydered Carv’d and painted
and gilt and a verge all down before and Round y^e neck w^{th} y^e
ffigures of the apostles done in Embroydery as it were, all marble very
fine. There was 4 or 5 more good Marble Statues. There was on one of y^e
Pillars y^e shape of y^e seameless Coate w^{ch} Christ wore. In another
place there is a great Red Cross very high on some of y^e arches, and
its very dangerous to go or Climbe round, the pillars to it being of a
vast height and this used to be as a pennance to y^e people in y^e tyme
of popery. There is one Chappell for Confession w^{th} a Roome and
Chaire of State for y^e priest to set to hear y^e people on their knees
Confess into his Eare through a hole in y^e wall. This Church has y^e
most popish remaines in its walls of any I have seen. There still
remaines a Cross over the alter; the Candlesticks are 3 quarters of a
y^d high massy silver gilt very heavy. The ffont is one Entire piece of
White Marble stemm and foote, the Cover was Carv’d wood w^{th} y^e image
of Ch^{sts} being baptised by John and the holy Dove Descending on him,
all finely Carv’d white wood w^{th} out any paint or varnish. They Draw
up the Cover by a pully and so Let it down again w^{ch} shutts Close
unless against raines then it swells open as it did now and I believe in
y^t Citty its usually annoy’d with wet. This Cathedrall was much
frequented by the priests in K James the Seconds tyme and many of their
Relicts washed ffaire to be seen, and y^e woman told me the priest use
to shew her where Every thing was, and they hoped quickly to be in
possession of it, and made many promises how kind they would be to them
their retainers to the Church; but blessed be God y^t put a tymely stop
to the protestants utter ruin and y^e hopes of the papists. When I was
upon the tower I Could see Cambridg and a great prospect of y^e Country
w^{ch} by reason of y^e great rains just before under water, all the
ffenny ground being all on a flatt unless it be one side of the town
w^{ch} is all the high dry grounds, into w^{ch} they drive up their
Cattle to secure them in the wet seasons. There is no tradeing in the
town, their maine buissiness and dependance is on draining and fencing
their Grounds and breeding and grasseing Cattle. There is a fine gate of
stone arch’d Like a Church w^{ch} is Called the abbey, but no remaines
of y^e Abby Left, only as its built into houses for the Doctors and
Clergy, within which is the palace for the Bishop which is their
temporall as well as spiritual prince or Lord. From this Citty I passed
over those higher grounds on w^{ch} was some good Corn but mostly is for
grass for their Cattle. You see many pretty Little towns 4 or 5 in view
together 2 or 3 miles distant. I went to Sutton, one of them, 6 miles
off the Citty, this was a Little Market town; thence to y^e ffenn banks
on y^e top of which I Rode at Least two miles w^{th} y^e ffenns on both
sides w^{ch} now were mostly under water, a vast tract of such grounds
w^{ch} are divided by the Dikes w^{th} out trees, as those I observ’d
before, and these high banks are made to draine and ffence out y^e water
from y^e Lower grounds, and so from one banck to another w^{ch} are once
in many acres of Land 100, so that at length it does bear off the water
but in the winter it returns, so as they are forced to watch and be all
wayes in repaireing those bancks; and Considering y^e vast allowance
yearly for draining those fenns at least 3000^£ an. I wonder they have
not perfectly runn off y^e water and so Barracadoed it as not to (?) soe
it often overflows it againe as it does in many places; but they are all
a lazy sort of people and are afraid to do too much. Here I see y^t many
swans nests on Little Hillocks of Earth in the wett ground that they
Look as if swimming w^{th} their nests, some were with their young
signetts, 3 or 4 in heape w^{th} their damms hovering over them for
their security. This brought me to the Armitage along 8 mile in all from
Ely town, and here I Repass’d the River Lin on a wooden Bridge and so
went out of y^e jsland of Ely w^{ch} was in Cambridgshire and Entred
into Huntingdonshire.
There was another bridge over a deep place of y^e River under w^{ch} the
boates and barges went, and this bridge was in the water; one must pass
thro’ water to it and so beyond it a good way, and y^e Road was so full
of holes and quicksands I durst not venture, y^e water Covering them
over and a stranger there Cannot Easily Escape y^e danger, tho’ I see
the Carryers went y^t way to save the Expense of y^e fferry, but I
Rather chose to Ride round and fferry over in a boate 2 pence a horse to
a Little town. This river runs along by S^t Ives w^{ch} was an old
monastery and a Rich one. From this fferry its 8 mile to Huntington
town; one goes much in sight of y^e River and y^e severall places built
on its bancks w^{ch} Looks well—these are pretty long miles. From
Huntington town I went to Stillton 9 mile more, and thence I went to y^e
Citty of Peterborough in Lincolnshire w^{ch} was 5 long miles, the wayes
deep and full of Sloughs. It stands very high and to be seen at a great
distance y^e towers of y^e minster being all in view—one would think it
but a quarter of a mile when you have a mile or two still to it. Y^e
whole Citty Looks very well and handsomely built but mostly timber
worke: you pass over a Long stone bridg. The Streetes are very clean and
neate, well pitch’d and broad as one shall see any where, there is a
very spacious market place, a good Cross and town Hall on the top. The
Cathedrall is a magnificent building standing in the midst on advanced
ground, all stone, y^e walls very neately wrought, the front is in 3
great arches full of Small stone pillars smoothly turn’d and halfe paces
as it were in y^e 2 side arches, the head is w^{th} no high tower but 5
Little ones, 3 of w^{ch} in the middle are higher and bigger than the
other; between Each are 3 peakes Like great Canteliver windows but all
finely Carv’d in stone. Ye middle arch is the Entrance w^{ch} is
Exceeding Lofty, as is the Roofe of y^e whole, and so well painted that
it appears to be hollow Carving, this seems to be the two remarkable
things in y^e whole. Its a spacious place, but one large jsle w^{ch} is
in y^e middle Leading up to y^e quire, where I observed they put y^e
seate of any of their deceased dignatorys of y^e Church in Black w^{th}
an Escutcheon: here was one, so now here was y^e Statue of y^e person
y^t was last abbott and first Bishop of y^e place; there was also y^e 2
monuments of 2 queens, y^t of Catherine of Spain being Harry y^e 8^{ths}
queen, and also the statute of y^e queen Mary of Scotts that was both
beheaded and buried here, and there is also y^e picture of an old man
w^{th} y^e Inscription of y^e whole matter, w^{ch} was y^e Sexton and
dugg both their graves. Here is a pallace for y^e Bishop, of stone
Building very neate, and y^e Doctors houses, all in a space Called the
Colledg—very neate but nothing Curious. The river Linn washes the town
almost round; it Looks like a very jndustrious thriveing town—spinning
and knitting amongst y^e ordinary people.
I went thence to Wansford and passed by M^{rs} S^t Johns house w^{ch}
stands on a hill a mile from y^e town in a fine parke. There was no gate
to Peterborough town and as I pass’d y^e Road I saw upon y^e walls of
y^e ordinary peoples houses and walls of their out houses, y^e Cow dung
plaister’d up to drie in Cakes w^{ch} they use for fireing, its a very
offensive fewell, but y^e Country people use Little Else in these parts.
Wansford is 5 mile from Peterborough, where I passed over the Bridge
w^{ch} Entred me into Northhamptonshire, the town being part in that
shire w^{ch} is towards London, y^e other in Lincolnshire w^{ch} a mile
or two farther joyns w^{th} Rutlandshire at Stamford, w^{ch} town stands
in y^e 3 Countyes, where I Lay at “y^e Swan in Wansford in England,”
being a jest on a man makeing hay fell a sleep on a heap of it, and a
great storme washed y^e Hay and man into y^e River and Carry’d him to
y^e Bridge, where he awoke and knew not where he was, Called to y^e
people in y^e grounds and told them he liv’d in a place Called Wansford
in England w^{ch} goes for a jest on y^e men of Wansford to this Day.
Thence I went to Durant 5 miles and passed over a very good stone
bridge. Here we are neare y^e quarry’s of stone, and all y^e houses and
walls are built of stone as in Glocestershire. This River and bridge
Enter’d me into Leicestershire w^{ch} is a very Rich Country—Red land,
good Corne of all sorts and grass, both fields and jnclosures. You see a
great way upon their hills y^e bottoms full of Enclosures, woods and
different sort of manureing and Herbage, amongst w^{ch} are placed many
little towns w^{ch} gives great pleasure of y^e travellers to view. Y^e
miles are long but hither its pretty hard good way; to Coppingham 5 mile
more w^{ch} is a neate market town. Satturday is their market w^{ch} is
very good affording great quantetyes of Corn, Leather garne and Cattle;
such a Concourse of people y^t my Landlord told me he used to have 100
horse set up at his jnn, and there were many publick houses. Here you
see very Large fine sheep and very good land, but very deep bad roads.
From hence to Leister w^{ch} they Call but 13 miles, but y^e longest 13
I ever went and y^e most tiresome being full of sloughs, y^t I was near
11 hours going but 25 mile, as they Reckon it, between Wansford and
Leicester town—a footman Could have gone much faster than I Could Ride.
Their fewell here is as I said but Cowdung or Coale w^{ch} they are
supplyed with out of Warwickshire. Leicester town stands on the Side of
a little riseing Ground, tho’ at a distance from y^e adjacent hills it
Looks Low, but its a good prospect. It has 4 gates, y^e streetes are
pretty Large and well pitch’d, there are five parishes; the Market place
is a Large space very handsome w^{th} a good Market Cross and town hall.
Y^e river Sow w^{ch} runs into y^e river Reeke and both Empts themselves
into y^e Trent. Trent to y^e Bow Bridge w^{ch} is one arch over into y^e
Priory, w^{ch} King Rich^d y^e third pass’d over out of y^e Priory when
he went to fight in Bosworth field w^{th} King Henry the seventh, but
the stone he struck his heele at and against, w^{th} w^{ch} his head was
struck at his return when brought athwart the horse Dead, I Could not
see it, being removed, but I saw a piece of his tombstone he Lay in,
w^{ch} was Cut out in exact form for his body to Lye in; y^t remains to
be seen at y^e Greyhound in Leaster but is partly broken. There I saw a
piece of y^e jury wall as its Called being in arches and was a place
where the Jews burnt their sacrifices.
There are two Hospitalls, one for old men y^e other women 24 in number;
they are allowed 2^s : 8^d p^r weeke, Candle, fewell oatmeale, butter
and salt. I saw the Library w^{ch} is pretty large, there was two Large
Divinity Books the arch-Bishop gave them lately, and the names of all
their Benefactors; there was one book all written hand by a scribe
before printing was found out, it was a fine vellum; and there was
another Book of y^e New Testament in Chineaze Language and Characteur.
Y^e town is old timber building Except one or two of Brick. There is
Indeed that they Call y^e Newark w^{ch} is Encompass’d w^{th} a wall of
a good thickness and two great gates w^{th} towers as the town gates
are, in w^{ch} they keep their arms and amunition. Y^e walls now are
only to secure gardens that are made of y^e ruin’d places that were
buildings of strength. In this Newark w^{ch} is a large space of ground
are severall good houses some of stone and Brick In which some Lawyers
Live ffrank; there is also a new pile of Building all of Brick w^{ch} is
the Guild Hall where y^e assizes are kept twice in y^e yeare and y^e
session quarterly.
S^t Martins Church w^{ch} is one of y^e biggest—there is none very big
and none fine—but here I saw Hyricks tomb who was major of y^e town and
was married to one wife 52 years in all, w^{ch} tyme he buried neither
man woman or Child tho’ most tymes he had 20 in his family, his age was
79 and his widdow 97 at her death, she saw 142 of her posterity
together. They have a water-house and a water mill to turn y^e water in
deep Leaden tubbs or Cisterns for their use: there are wells in some
streetes to draw water by a hand wheele for y^e Common use of the town.
The major and alderman goes about in procession on Holy Thursday which
was y^e day I was there. Here are a great many descenters in this town.
This Country as I s^d was all Rich deep land, and they plough their land
all w^{th} ploughs w^{th} out wheeles as they do in Oxfordshire and
other deep lands. From thence I passed to Bosworth 8 miles, and went by
a Gentlemans house and thro’ a little parke where the deer were very
tame, and passed through Bosworth and over y^e ground where was y^e
battle between King Richard y^t Lost his Life by y^e hand of y^e Earle
of Richmond afterwards King Henry y^e Seventh, who was Crown’d in this
Bosworth field w^{th} y^e Crown taken off from King Richards head, who
being dead was Ignominiously Cast aCross a horse and Carried to
Leicester and buried there as a just judgm^t of God for Killing his two
nephews and reigning in their stead.
This is a great flatt full of good Enclosures. Near this is Narsby where
was y^e great battle fought between King Charles y^e First and y^e
parliam^t of England. From thence I went to Fallmouth 7 miles more and
so into Warwickshire over a bridge. This is a little market town; thence
3 miles more to Tamworth a neate town built of Brick and mostly new; in
sight at its approach it look’d like Litchfield but not a quarter so big
a market town, it stands halfe in Warwickshire and halfe in
Staffordshire, and so to Litchfield over a large stone bridg that
Crosses y^e Tamworth river that gives name to y^e town. To Litchfield is
5 mile more all very good way mostly Gravel; I went it in an hour. This
side Entring y^e town I Came by a Large good Almshouse w^{ch} I saw not
before. They have in this town a Custome at Whitsontide y^e Monday and
Tuesday Call’d y^e green Bower feast, by which they hold their Charter.
The Bailiff and Sheriff assist at y^e Cerimony of dressing up Baby’s
w^{th} garlands of flowers and Carry it in procession through all y^e
streetes, and then assemble themselves at y^e Market place and so go on
in a solemn procession through the great streete to a hill beyond y^e
town where is a Large Bower made w^{th} greens in w^{ch} they have their
feast. Many lesser Bowers they make about for Conveniency of y^e Whole
Company and for selling fruite Sweetemeetes and Gingerbread w^{ch} is a
Chief Entertainment.
Thence I went to Woolsely 7 mile farther, to S^r Charles Woolsley where
I staid 6 weekes it being my aunt his Lady who Engaged my stay. His
seate stands very finely by y^e river Trent; there is also a moate
almost round ye house. Y^e house is old timble building, only a Large
parlour and noble stair Case w^{th} handsome Chambers S^r Charles has
new built. It is built round a Court w^{th} a gate house w^{ch} Leads to
y^e outward Court that has a paved walke, broad stone y^e same as y^e
first Court is paved with.
There are green spaces and a fine green banck w^{th} box or philteroy
hedge Cut round. There are very good gardens abundance of fruite of all
sorts and y^e ffinest dwarfe trees I ever saw, so thick like a hedge and
a huge Compass Every single tree, and very full of fruite of apples,
pears and Cherries; there are fine flowers, Heber roses white and
yellow; there was a fine Sena trees y^t bears a great Branch of yellow
fflowers. Y^e ground Lyes all well about y^e house and a fine park by
the End of it, part of w^{ch} is on a high hill y^e side of w^{ch} the
deer sport themselves, w^{ch} looks just on y^e house and is wonderfull
pleasant: its a Large parke 6 miles round full of stately woods and
replenish’d w^{th} red and fallow deer, one part of it is pretty full of
Billberryes w^{ch} thrive under y^e shade of y^e oakes, its a black
berry as big as a large pea and are Ripe about Harvest. There is a very
ill Custome amongst them now not to be broken, when they are Ripe. The
Country Comes and makes Boothes and a sort of faire y^e outside of y^e
parke, and so gather y^e berries and sell y^m about y^e Country. The
greenes they Call Wissums and on these wissums the Deer Brouse in y^e
winter and on holly of which there is great quantetys. In Kankwood just
by there is also great quantety’s of fferne w^{ch} tho’ it over runs
their ground and so spoiles y^e grass where its much, yet y^e
usefullness of it renders it necessary to be preserv’d; when it is at
its maturity w^{ch} happens just before harvest or hay tyme, y^e whole
Country are Employ’d in Cutting it up and burning it in heapes for y^e
sake of y^e ashes w^{ch} they make fine and Rowle them up in Balls and
so sell them or use them all y^e year for washing and scouring, and send
much up to London, y^e ashe balls being Easily sent about, without
w^{ch} they would have no ashes in the Country for such uses; for their
fewell is altogether Coales w^{ch} Indeed are very good and plenty, you
might have a load for 3 or 4 shillings brought home y^t would serve a
poore mans familly y^e winter. Its in great pieces and so Cloven burns
light so as the poorer sort works by it and so it serves for heate and
light: its very shineing Coale all about this Country tho’ they
Complaine they have lost y^e vein of the best sort w^{ch} they Call
Channell Coale and is y^e sort they have still in Wales and Lancashire
w^{ch} burnt much Lighter and less waste, but this I thought to be very
good, no better than it. I have in London given 40^s for such a Load.
In this parke is severall ponds w^{ch} affords good ffish, as does y^e
moate and y^e Trent as trout, Eeles, tench, perch &c, the Largest perch
I ever saw just Caught and dress’d immediately w^{ch} Eates in
perfection. Y^e hill in y^e parck Called Hartshill is so high that from
y^e top of it you see near 20 miles round, and shews all y^e Country
w^{ch} in this part of Staffordshire is full of woods and jnclosures and
good land, Except y^e Kanck-wood w^{ch} is but a barren heath ground,
but good wood—its fine for Hawking in y^e heath. Its full of little
Brookes and Rivulets w^{ch} abounds with Crawfish and they were the
sweetest and Largest I have seen any where. From hence to Stafford town
is 5 mile—you go by y^e banck of y^e Trent most of y^e way and passing
over two Rivers on stone bridges, Called y^e Sore and the Pink w^{ch}
both Empt themselves into y^e Trent and so Enter y^e town through a
gate. Its an old built town, timber and plaister pretty much, in Long
peaked Rooffes of tileing; 3 gates to the town—there was another w^{ch}
Leads to the Castle w^{ch} now is ruinated, and only remaines on a hill
the fortification trenches y^t are grown over w^{th} green. Y^e streetes
are pretty Large and well pitched; a broad space for y^e market place
Wherein is a good Market house on stone pillars w^{th} a handsome town
hall over it—some of the houses are pretty good. This Country is much
for Entertainments, in every house you must Eate and drinke.
From thence back to Woolsley againe 5 miles, from thence to Heywood
parke w^{ch} was 2 mile where Lived a Daughter of my aunt
Woolsley—marryed M^r Hedgewood—a little neate box they Live in.
From thence back againe 2 miles. To the Kank wood is pleasant Rideing,
its 20 mile long belongs to y^e Lord Paget, there are 4 lodges; in it a
great deale of wood and deer and goates. I went to Ffurnes Coppice
w^{ch} is 4 mile—on it a fine Covert of tall trees on a hill and a mile
farther was a fine wood Called Hedgford; Poole a quarter of a mile long
full of good fish; thence home 5 mile. Another day I went to Stiles
Coppice 3 mile off w^{ch} is on a high hill and a fine tufft of trees,
it Looks but Little at a distance but is a fine Covert for y^e sheep and
Cattle: I went quite round it from whence Could see y^e Country a good
distance and see into 7 Countys together, Warwickshire, Leicestershire
Glocestershire Derbyshire Staffordshire Shropshire and Cheshire; so home
againe by Ridgly a mile aboute so it was 4 mile.
Another day I went to Boudezworth the Lord Pagets house 4 mile off, and
passed by y^e Coale pitts where they were digging: they draw up the
Coale in baskets with a Little wheele or Windlass like a well—its very
good.
Lord Paget’s house is old Brick built, y^e ffront is uniforme and very
handsome with towers, but there is no good roome but a Long gallery
thats worth seeing: its a fine parke; just by it is a high hill on
w^{ch} is the remaines of an old ffortification, they Call it the Castle
wall, its of very great antiquity but now grown over w^{th} grass; from
thence the prospect of the Country is great. The parke is of Large
Extent and some of those pitts are in it—y^e Channell Coales, but y^e
water has over flow’d some of them and spoyl’d their digging; thence I
went home againe 4 miles—Another day I went to Panckeridge race over y^e
Kankwood 7 mile, where were most of y^e Gentlemen and Ladies of the
Country, severall Coaches and six horses, Indeed y^e miles are Long and
y^e wayes bad in the winter that obliges them to drive more horses;
these were persons of good Estates also. There appear’d only one horse
to run for y^e plaite which was a salver; thence to Woolesley again 7
mile more. Its a fine Country here about for Rideing one has a pleaseing
prospect Every way Especially on any advanc’d ground.
I went to Brinsy Coppice w^{ch} was 4 mile, thence Could see towards
Shrewsbury and y^e high hill the Reekee, and in a Cleare day Could see
something of Chester, and so home againe 4 mile more. Another day I went
upon Jtching hill 1 mile w^{ch} is a sort of Rock, but y^e stone is of a
Red Coullour and looks Like a sandy stone by its Moldring, but they tell
me when its wrought in a wall and have been season’d w^{th} y^e weather
it grows very hard and serviceable in building. From thence I went a
Compass round to Heywood parke 4 mile off and y^n home againe 2 miles;
and another day I went the same tour about to Heywood parke and back
w^{ch} was 6 mile more. While I stay’d at Woolsley I went directly to
Heywood parke above what I mentioned before and returned home w^{ch} was
in all 8 miles, and another day I went to a poole in the Kanckwood 3
mile to ffish and from thence to Heywood parke thro’ a very fine Coppice
of trees on a hanging brow of a hill w^{ch} Look’d very fine, and so
home 2 mile more. I name y^e number of miles I went only to see y^e
whole accō of miles I travell’d this yeare. These Coppices there are
many of them w^{ch} is a good shelter for y^e Cattle.
Another journey to Darby town from Woolsley by Colton and Blithbery 3
mile, thence to Yoxwell 3 mile over Nedwood forest of y^e King, w^{ch}
is 40 mile in Extent, all y^e way you have a fine prospect of y^e
Country, Enclosed good lands, admirable Corne of all sorts, good grass:
I went in sight of Tetbery Castle w^{ch} is y^e Kings—a great
ffortification, but all decay’d—here 4 mile more and there it was that I
pass y^e river Dove on a stone Bridge Called Dovebridge w^{ch} Enters me
into Darbyshire and thence its 8 mile more to Darby town.
Darby town Lies down in a bottom built all of brick or for y^e most
part; in it are 5 Churches built of stone y^e biggest of w^{ch} I was
in, y^e tower was finely Carv’d full of niches and Pedistals where on
Statues had been set, but nothing worth notice in y^e jnside except a
monument w^{ch} was over y^e vault of y^e Duke of Devonshire, on w^{ch}
stands 2 Effigees at length all of white marble y^e Earle and his
Countess of Devonshire w^{th} an arch or Cannopy of Stone over their
heads; this is rail’d in w^{th} Iron gates. There is also another statue
of marble painted and Gilded lying at length w^{ch} is also railed in.
Y^e River Derwent runns by the town and turns many mills, and y^e water
Engine w^{ch} turns y^e water into y^e pipes that serves y^e town, y^e
same wheele grinds also, but they do it for a half penny a strike w^{ch}
is the same measure as our Bushill. At this Engine they Can grind if its
never so high a flood, w^{ch} hinders all y^e other from working at y^e
flood, they are quite Choaked up, but this they Can set higher or lower
just as the water is. There are bays w^{ch} they make w^{th} stones to
keep the water to run to y^e mill and thence it falls againe into y^e
Derwent; there is also a fine stone Conduit in the Market place, w^{ch}
is very spacious, well pitch’d a good Market Cross. This is a dear place
for strangers notwithstanding y^e plentyfullness of all provision. My
Dinner Cost me 5^s and 8^d, only 2 servant men w^{th} me and I had but a
shoulder of mutton and bread and beer.
Here they mak great quantetys of gloves, I did not observe or Learn any
other trade or Manufacture, they had only shops of all sorts of things.
They Carry much of their Carriages on sledges to secure their pitching
in the streetes. Thence I went to Chartly 6 mile Lord Fferrers, and
thence Bradby Lord Chesterfields, and passed by a fine parke of some
Gentlemans in w^{ch} was a summer house on y^e side of y^e hill amongst
fine tall trees w^{ch} Look’d very well, and on y^e Right hand I turned
up to y^e Earle of Chesterfields parke full of fine Rows of trees
running up y^e avenue to y^e house. One Enters an outward Court and
drives round a Little pond like a ditch all pav’d w^{th} stone, or great
basin of stone, in which were two swans swimming about in y^t little
Compass; y^e gates are all jron barrs and the whole front of y^e house
open jron pallasadoe spikes in a Compass round Like a half moone.
Answerable to y^t beyond y^e stable yard is another such a demy Circle
of open pallasadoe, y^t lets you out to y^e prospect of y^e grounds
beyond, full of regular Rows of trees. Y^e house has a visto quite thro’
by a glass bellcony door into y^e gardens, and so to y^e parke beyond on
y^t side. Y^e front have something surpriseing in it; its all of free
stone w^{ch} is dipt in oyle that adds a varnish to its Lustre as well
as security to its foundation. Y^e Roofe is not flatt as our Modern
buildings so y^e garret windows Come out on y^e tileing w^{ch} is all
flatt None of y^e windows are sashes which in my opinion is y^e only
thing it wants to render it a Compleate building: its halfe a roman H.
There is an ascent of 5 or 6 steps all stone to y^e gates, and so you
proceed on a broad paved walke w^{ch} is divided by a Cross walke of y^e
same towards y^e upper End; thence y^e ascent by as many more stone
steps into a noble hall y^t has a Row of white marble pillars at y^e
upper End. Y^e middle a Little roome w^{th} a marble table in the middle
w^{ch} is y^e Balcony into y^e Garden, but y^{ts} without Steps down
into y^e Garden. From these Rows of Pillars on y^e Right hand runs a
passage to y^e Servants roome and all the offices, and at y^e End is a
Chappell w^{ch} was very neate. Over y^e alter is a large ovall of Glass
of y^e sort of Private glass used in Windows to obscure y^e Sight from
without, but hinders not y^e Light w^{th} inside; this Look’d pretty as
being particular and uncomon.
There was a little organ and Closets for y^e Lord and Ladies to sitt
in. From y^e hall on the left hand Enters into a Large roome w^{th}
a billiard table, from thence into a Large parlour and 2
drawing-roomes,—there was a good dineing roome. Above, y^e drawing
Roome had Company in it, y^e Earle having just marry’d his Eldest
daughter Lady Mary to one M^r Cooke a Gentleman of a good Estate
hard by, so there was Company to wishe her joy; but I was in
severall bed Chambers, one had a Crimson damaske bed, y^e other
Crimson velvet set upon halfe paces: this best was y^e bride Chamber
w^{ch} used to be Call’d y^e Silver roome where y^e stands, table,
and fire utensills were all massy silver, but when plaite was in
nomination to pay a tax, y^e Earle of Chesterfield sold it all and
y^e plaite of y^e house, so that when y^e table was spread I saw
only spoones, salts and forks and y^e side board plaite, noe plaites
or dishes and but few salvers. Ye pictures was all burnt by a fire
and so there are only bare walls. One Roome was painted over
head—y^e others frettwork, but y^t w^{ch} is most admired, and
justly so to be by all persons, and Excite their Curiosity to Come
and see is y^e gardens and waterworks. Out of y^e Billiard Roome y^e
first was with Gravell walks, and a large fountaine in the middle
with flower potts and Greens set Round y^e Brimm of y^e fountaines
that are paved w^{th} stone. You see but one garden at a tyme. The
Pipes in y^e fountaines play very finely, some of a great height,
some fflushes y^e water about; then you Come to a descent of
severall steps w^{ch} discovers anoth^r fine garden w^{th}
fountaines playing through pipes besett on y^e branches w^{th} all
sort of Greens and flower trees, dwarfe honeysuckles in a Round tuff
growing upright, and all sorts of flower trees and greens finely
Cutt and Exactly kept. In one garden there are 3 fountaines wherein
stands great statues; Each side on their pedistalls is a dial one
for y^e Sun y^e other a Clock w^{ch} by y^e water worke is moved and
strikes y^e hours, and Chimes y^e quarters, and when they please
play Lilibolaro on y^e Chimes: all this I heard when I was there. On
one side of this garden is a half Compass w^{th} a breast wall on
w^{ch} are high jron pallisadoes divided with severall Pillars,
stone with Images on their tops about 2 yards distance; this opens
to view y^e parke and a sort of Cannall or pond w^{ch} is in it of a
good bigness. Beyond this Garden is a Row of orange and Lemon trees
set in y^e ground, of a man’s height and pretty big, full of flowers
and some Large fruit almost Ripe: this has a pent house over it
w^{ch} is Cover’d up very Close in the winter. This Leads on to a
great wilderness and Just by it is another Square w^{th} a fountaine
whose brim is deck’d with flower potts full of flowers and all sorts
of greens; on Either side is 2 or 3 rows of orange and Lemon trees
in boxes one below another in growth.
Just against this is a wall Cover’d over w^{th} Lawrell finely Cutt, and
also in y^e middle is an arch, and on Either side stone staires ascends
it w^{ch} terminate in a sort of half pace all Cover’d over w^{th}
Lawrell, and this Enters a doore into another Garden through a little
garden house. This also has a fine fountaine Like y^e others, only as
most of y^e others was green walks this was Gravell, so was the garden
on y^e Right side of y^e house. Ye front Garden w^{ch} has y^e Largest
fountaine has also a fine Green house and very fine flowers, and y^e
beds and borders are Cut in severall formes; y^e Greens are very fine
and y^e hedges Cutt in severall formes; there was one tree not much
unlike y^e Cyprus green but y^e branches were more spread and of a
Little yellower green, y^e Barke of y^e Limbs yellow—it was y^e Cedar of
Lebonus. There was also fine strip’d stocks, Double Like a Rose. There
was a Large Ewe tree in y^e middle of one Garden Cut in forms, fine
ffirrs and Cyprus and ffilleroy of w^{ch} some was striped Like silver,
white, others yellow Like Gold, w^{ch} gave them their different names,
and fine gilded and striped Hollys.
There was one green in a pott Call’d S^t John y^e baptists herb, it was
full of many Leaves and y^e Coullour not much unlike the green they Call
Solomons Seale but longer and bigger Leaves; its an annual plant. Here
just by y^e wilderness is y^e tulip tree w^{ch} runns up of a great
height and y^e flower is on y^e top; it flowers in August. There is a
great avery of Birds w^{ch} stands Like a sumer house open; there is
also many Close averys of Birds and severall Green shady walks and Close
arbours. There are very fine woodbines grows like tuffs all in flower
Red and white. There is some of y^e fountaines that have figures in them
that throws up water a greate height—a Cascade of water.
Then I returned into y^e hall and so into a Coole roome in w^{ch} was a
fountaine where I dranke a Glass of wine and so proceeded. This was 3
miles from Chartry, thence through a fine visto or Glide of trees w^{ch}
runs along y^e parke and so to Burton on y^e Trent 2 long miles. This is
a pretty large town; here is a very long stone bridge over y^e Trent:
the Streetes are very well pitch’d and some very broad.
Thence over Nedwood fforest 6 mile, and thence to Yoxsell, w^{ch} is 6
mile more to Woolsley and they are all Long miles; then I went againe to
Stafford town 5 miles and from thence to Jnstree M^r Thetwins—its bad
way. You go by S^t Thomas’s w^{ch} was some old abbey—its still a good
house.
Going along y^e side of y^e hill gives a great view of y^e Country that
is mostly jnclosures we passed between two parkes, y^e one is Lord
astons, and goe in sight of Tixall hall w^{ch} is a good house and Looks
handsomely of stone building: the other was M^r Thetwins parke w^{ch}
has fine Rows of trees—ffirrs Scots and Noroway and y^e picanther—the
ffront lookes nobly. Noe flatt Roofed houses in this Country but much in
windows. Two Large bow windows on Each side runns up y^e whole building,
y^e middle the same besides much flatt window between, so that y^e whole
is Little besides window. Its built brick and stone, the part to y^e
garden ward is new building of y^e new fashion and sash windows. Y^e
Court is 2 or 5 stepps up w^{th} open jron pallasadoes y^e breadth of
y^e house and a broad paved walk w^{ch} Leads up to y^e doore in the
Middle. Y^e visto is quite through y^e house to y^e gardens and through
a long walke of trees of a mile through the parke to a Lodge or summer
house at y^e End, w^{ch} Lookes very finely, it being a Riseing ground
up to y^e parke. There is a Crosse paved walke in y^e Court w^{ch} Leads
to a little house on Each End like summer houses, w^{th} towers and
balls on y^e top; y^e one Leads through to y^e Churchyard w^{ch} is
planted w^{th} Rows of Ewe trees very uniforme and Cutt neately. Y^e
Church is new and very handsome, good frettworke on y^e top, the wood
worke well Carv’d, its seates good wanscoate and with locks.
In the Chancell are two monuments of Marble, one all white, y^e other
white with a border Black, and with white pillars; the middle at y^e
bottom is alabaster. The pillars of y^e Church is made of y^e Red stone
w^{ch} is plenty in this Country and they are all polished over; the
ffront is all white marble; stem y^e same veined bleu, y^e foot is
black, y^e Cover is wood Carv’d very well. The porch is very high on
w^{ch} is a dyal, it almost breakes ones neck to Looke up at it for y^t
y^e tower in w^{ch} are 5 bells. There is just against this a garden.
On y^e other side the dwelling house w^{ch} is severall steps up
it—Gravell walkes full of flowers and greens and a box hedge Cut finely
with Little trees, some Cut round, and another hedge of strip’d holly
Cut Even and some of Lawrell Cut Even Likewise. Out of this you go into
a flower garden divided into knotts, in which were 14 Cyprus trees
w^{ch} were grown up very tall some of them, and kept Cutt Close in four
squares down to y^e bottom. Towards y^e top they Enclined to a point or
spire. Thence into another garden w^{th} gravell walkes, and so into a
summer house through w^{ch} you Enter a good Bowling green, w^{ch} also
goes out of another garden, w^{ch} takes in y^e whole breadth of y^e
house and is full of flowers and greens and dwarfe trees and little
borders of Severall sorts of greens Cut Even and Close, of tyme,
severall sorts and of savin w^{ch} is another Coullour, and of Lavender
Cotten another Coullour, and Rosemary and severall others. From this
Bowling green in y^e Middle you descend 18 stepps in a Demi Circle
inwards halfe way, then y^e stones are set round and so y^e half pace
is, and y^e other stepps are Round turned outward, and y^e Lowest much
y^e Largest as was y^e uppermost of y^e first. This leads to a place
designed for ponds to keep ffish in but this place will not admitt of
any water works altho’ its a deep Dirty Country. They neither have good
gravell or marle to make a pond secure to hold water, nor are they near
Enough y^e springs, but are forced to be supply’d w^{th} water by pipes
from y^e River trent that is a mile off, and yet the whole place seems a
quage, and when one is descended y^e hill this seemes to be the only
thing wanting, for just by the Bowling-green is a very fine wilderness
with many Large walks of a great Length full of all sorts of trees,
scycamores, willows, Hazel, Chesnutts, walnuts, set very thicke and so
shorn smooth to y^e top w^{ch} is left as a tuff or Crown—they are very
Lofty in growth w^{ch} makes y^e Length of a walke Look Nobly. There is
also a Row on y^e outside of firrs round Every grove 2 yards or 3
distant—some silver ffirrs—some Norroway—some Scotts and pine trees:
these hold their beauty round y^e groves in y^e winter when y^e others
Cast their Leaves. This was from Stafford 3 mile and to Woolsley was 3
mile more through narrow stoney Lanes through great Heywood.
Att Jnstree, M^r Shetwins, I saw a fine pomegranate tree as tall as
myself, the Leafe is a long slender Leafe of a yellowish green Edged
w^{th} red and feeles pretty thicke, y^e Blossom is white and very
double. There was a terrass walke in one of y^e Gardens that gave y^e
full prospect of y^e Country a great way about—its a deep Country—you
are going these 3 miles to Woolsley a great while. There was at S^r
Charles Woolsly’s some of y^e best good land and some of y^e worst, as
is y^e Kankwood, but here y^e Roads are pretty good and hard w^{ch}
makes it pleasant. There is much fine fruite here S^r Charles takeing
great delight in his Gardens, I must say I never saw trees so well
dress’d and pruned, y^e walls so Equally Cover’d as there. There is
severall sorts of strawbery’s but y^e vermillion is y^e finest, very
large as any Garden strawbery and of a fine scarlet Coullour, but its a
Later sort; there was a pretty almond tree in Bloome y^e flower not
unlike a Rosemary flower. From thence I tooke my progress Northward and
went from hence to NewCastle under Line, through Stone w^{ch} was 9
miles, and then to Trentum, and passed by a great house of M^r Leveston
Gore, and went on the side of a high hill below which the River Trent
rann and turn’d its silver streame forward and backward into s. s w^{ch}
Looked very pleasant Circleing about y^e fine meadows in their
flourishing tyme bedecked w^{th} hay almost Ripe and flowers. 6 mile
more to NewCastle under Line where is the fine shineing Channell Coale;
so y^e proverb to both y^e New-Castles of bringing Coales to y^m is a
needless Labour, one being famous for this Coale thats Cloven and makes
white ashes as is this, and y^e NewCastle on y^e Tyne is for y^e sea
Coale y^t Cakes and is what is Common and famillier to every smith in
all villages. I went to this NewCastle in Staffordshire to see the
makeing of y^e fine tea potts. Cups and saucers of y^e fine red Earth in
imitation and as Curious as y^t w^{ch} Comes from China, but was
defeated in my design, they Comeing to an End of their Clay they made
use of for y^t sort of ware, and therefore was remov’d to some other
place where they were not settled at their work so Could not see it;
therefore I went on to Beteby 6 miles farther and went by a Ruinated
Castle y^e walls still remaining Called Healy Castle—this was deep Clay
way. This town is halfe in Staffordshire and halfe in Cheshire, one side
of y^e streete in y^e one, and y^e other in y^e latter, so y^t they
often jest on it in travelling one wheele goes in Staffordshire y^e
other wheele in Cheshire.
Here is a great mer or standing water 2 miles Compass—great store of
good fish; it belongs to one M^r Egerton: thence I went to Nantwitch 5
long miles. Nantwitch is a pretty large town and well built: here are
y^e salt springs of w^{ch} they make salt and many salterns w^{ch} were
a boyling y^e salt. This is a pretty Rich land; you must travell on a
Causey; I went 3 miles on a Causey through much wood. Its from Nantwitch
to Chester town 14 long miles, y^e wayes being deep: its much on
Enclosures and I passed by severall large pooles of waters, but what I
wonder’d at was y^t tho’ this shire is remarkable for a greate deale of
greate Cheeses and Dairys I did not see more than 20 or 30 Cowes in a
troope feeding, but on Enquiry find y^e Custome of y^e Country to joyn
their milking together of a whole village and so make their great
Cheeses. West Chester town lies in a bottom and runs a greate length and
is pretty big—there are 10 Churches.
The Cathedrall is Large and Lofty, y^e quire well Carv’d, fine tapistry
hangings at y^e alter, a good organ: The Bishops pallace is on the Right
hand of it and the Doctors houses, all built of Stone. There is a new
hall building w^{ch} is for y^e assize and it stands on great Stone
pillars w^{ch} is to be y^e exchange w^{ch} will be very Convenient and
handsome; the hall is round, its built of Bricke and Stone Coynes, there
are Leads all round w^{th} battlements and in the middle is a tower,
there are ballconies on y^e Side and windows quite round y^e Cupillow
that shews y^e whole town round. There is another town hall—a long Lofty
place, and another by the Side w^{ch} is Called the Councill Roome both
for y^e Major and Aldermen to meete for y^e buissinesse of y^e
Corporation. Y^e town is walled all aboute w^{th} battlem^{ts} and a
walke all round pav’d w^{th} stone, I allmost Encompass’d y^e walls. Ye
streetes are of a greate breadth, but there is one thing takes much from
their appeareing so and from their beauty, for on each side in most
places they have made penthouses so broad set on pillars w^{ch} persons
walk under Covert, and is made up and down steps under which are ware
houses. Tho’ a penthouse or pallasadoe be convenient for security from
y^e sun or weather and were it no broader than for two to passe one by
y^e other it would be well and No dissight to y^e grace of y^e Streetes,
but this does darken y^e streetes and hinder y^e Light of y^e houses in
many places to y^e streete ward below, indeed in some places were it
only before y^e Chiefe persons houses it would be Convenient where its
flatt and Even w^{th} the streetes. The town is mostly timber buildings,
the trade and Concourse of people to it is Chiefly from the jntercourse
it has with Ireland—most take this passage; and also y^e jntercourse
w^{th} Wales w^{ch} is parted from it and England by y^e river Dee
w^{ch} washes y^e Castle Walls in w^{ch} they keep their Stores, but
nothing fine in it. The walls and towers seemes in good repaire. At the
End of y^e town just by the Castle you Crosse over a very large and Long
Bridge over the River Dee w^{ch} has the tyde Comes up much beyond the
town; its 7 mile off y^t it falls into y^e sea, but its very broad below
y^e town, when at high tyde is like a very broad sea: there they have a
little Dock and build shipps of 200 tunn, I saw some on the stocks.
Cross this River by this Bridge Enters Fflintshire and so Crossed over
y^e marches w^{ch} is hazardous to strangers, therefore M^r W^m
Allen—w^{ch} was y^e major of Chester that time and gave me a very Civil
treate being an acquaintance of my Brother S^r Edmund Harrison—so
order’d his son and another Gentleman to Ride w^{th} me to Direct, to
Harding w^{ch} was 5 miles. Just by that was a very fine new built house
of Brick and in y^e Exact forme of y^e London Architecture w^{ch} was
this M^r Majors house and good gardens.
Att Harding, where was my Relation D^r Percivalls wife who was Minister
of y^t place: his parish was 8 miles in Extent and 2 lordships in it,
and y^e ruines of two great Castles in it remaines—its good Rich Land
here, much on Enclosures and woods.
In a tarresse walke in my Relations garden I could very plainly see
Chester and y^e River Dee with all its Washes over the Marsh ground
w^{ch} look’d very finely: here are sands w^{ch} makes it very difficult
for strangers to passe w^{th} out a guide. From hence my Relation
Carry’d me to Holly Well and pass’d thro’ Flint town w^{ch} is the shire
town 5 mile from harding; its a very Ragged place many villages in
England are better, y^e houses all thatched and stone walls, but so
decay’d that in many places Ready are to tumble down. There was a town
hall such a one as it was; it was at a Session tyme w^n I was there
w^{ch} shew’d it at its Prime. There is a Castle w^{ch} still remaines
w^{th} its towers built of stone, its down to y^e water side: from
thence to Holy well is 3 mile mostly by y^e water side w^{ch} is
Reckon’d the sea—here I went just in sight of high Lake where were many
shipps Rideing along that harbour.
S^t Winfreds Well is built over w^{th} stone on Pillars Like a
Tryumphall arch or tower on y^e gates of a Church, there is a pavem^t of
stone w^{th} in—round 3 sides of y^e well w^{ch} is joyn’d on y^e fourth
side by a great arch of stone w^{ch} Lies over y^e water y^t runs of
from y^e well; its many springs w^{ch} bubbles up very fast and Lookes
Cleane in a Compass w^{ch} is 8 square walled in w^{th} stone. In y^e
bottom w^{ch} you see as Clear as Chrystall are 9 stones Layd in an oval
on w^{ch} are dropps of Red Coullour some almost quite Covering the top
of y^e stone, w^{ch} is pretended to be y^e blood of this holy saint
whose head was struck off here and so where her body Laid this spring
burst forth and remaines till now a very Rapid Current, w^{ch} runs off
from this well under a barre by w^{ch} there are stone stepps for y^e
persons to descend w^{ch} will bathe themselves in the well, and so they
walke along y^e Streame to the other End and then come out, but there is
nothing to Shelter them but are Exposed to all the Company that are
walking about y^e well and to y^e Little houses and part of y^e Streete
w^{ch} runs along by it but y^e Religeuse are not to mind it, it seemes
the saint they do honour to in this place must beare them out in all
things. They tell of many lameness’s and aches and distempers w^{ch} are
Cured by it, its a Cold water and Cleare and runs off very quick so y^t
it would be a pleasant refreshm^t in y^e sumer to washe ones self in it,
but its shallow not up to y^e Waste so its not Easye to Dive and washe
in, but I thinke I Could not have been persuaded to have gone in unless
I might have had Curtains to have drawn about some part of it to have
shelter’d from y^e Streete, for y^e wett garments are no Covering to y^e
body; but there I saw abundance of y^e devout papists on their Knees all
round a well. Poor people are deluded into an jgnorant blind zeale and
to be pity’d by us y^t have the advantage of knowing better and ought to
be better. There is some stones of a Reddish Coullour in y^e well s^d to
be some of S^t Winifred’s blood also, w^{ch} y^e poore people take out
and bring to y^e strangers for Curiosity and Relicts, and also moss
about y^e bancks full of great virtue for Every thing. But its a
Certaine gaine to y^e poore people—every one gives them something for
bringing them moss and y^e stones, but lest they should in length of
tyme be quite gather’d up they take Care to replenish it dayly from some
mossy hill and so stick it along y^e sides of y^e well—there is good
streames runs from it and by meanes of steepe descent runs down and
turns mills. They come also to drinke of y^e water w^{ch} they take up
in y^e first square w^{ch} is walled round and where the springs Rise
and they say its of wonder full operation. Y^e taste to me was but like
good spring water w^{ch} w^{th} wine and sugar and Lemons might make a
pleasant Draught after walking amongst those shady trees of w^{ch} there
is a great many and some straight and tall like a grove but not very
uniforme. From thence I went back to Harding w^{ch} is 8 very Long
Miles. At Holly well they speake Welsh; the inhabitants go barefoote and
bare leg’d—a nasty sort of people. Their meate is very small here,
Mutton is noe bigger than Little Lamb, what of it there is was sweete;
their wine good being Neare y^e Sea side, and are well provided with
ffish—very good Salmon and Eeles and other ffish I had at Harding. This
shire is improperly Called Fflintshire there being noe flints in all y^e
Country. There are great Coale pitts of the Channell Coale thats Cloven
huge great pieces: they have great wheeles that are turned w^{th} horses
y^t draw up the water and so draine the Mines w^{ch} would Else be over
flowed so as they Could not dig the Coale; they have also Engines y^t
draw up their Coale in sort of baskets Like hand barrows w^{ch} they
wind up like a Bucket in a well, for their mines are dug down through a
sort of well and sometymes its pretty Low before they Come to y^e
Coales; it makes y^e Road unsafe because of y^e Coale pitts and also
from y^e Sloughs and quicksands, all here about being mostly near y^e
bancks of y^e water. In this Country are quarrys of Stone, Copper and
Iron Mines and salt hills, its a hilly place, very steep descents and
great many very high hills, but I went not so farre as Pen Ma Mower but
Cross’d y^e river Dee haveing first went two mile by these Coale mines
(at least 10) in a place (?) its a thing w^{ch} holds neer two bushell
that is their Basket they draw up w^{ch} is bought for 6 pence. I forded
over y^e Dee when y^e tide was out all upon the sands at Least a mile,
w^{ch} was as smooth as a Die being a few hours left of y^e flood. Y^e
sands are here soe Loose y^t the tydes does move them from one place to
another at Every flood, y^t the same place one used to ffoard a month or
two before is not to be pass’d now, for as it brings the sands in heaps
to one place so it leaves others in deep holes w^{ch} are Cover’d w^{th}
water and Loose sand that would swallow up a horse or Carriages; so I
had two Guides to Conduct me over. The Carriages w^{ch} are used to it
and pass Continually at y^e Ebbs of water observes y^e drift of sands
and so Escape y^e danger. It was at least a mile I went on y^e sands
before I Came to y^e middle of y^e Channell w^{ch} was pretty deep and
with such a Current or tyde w^{ch} was falling out to sea together
w^{th} y^e wind, the horses feete could scarce stand against it, but it
was but narrow just the deep part of the Channell and so soone over.
When the tyde is fully out they frequently fford in many places w^{ch}
they marke as the sands fall and Can go near 9 or 10 mile over y^e sands
from Chester to Burton or to Flint town almost; but many persons that
have known the ffoards well y^t have Come a year or halfe a year after,
if they venture on their former knowledge have been overwhelm’d in the
Ditches made by y^e sands w^{ch} is deep Enough to swallow up a Coach or
waggon; but they Convey their Coales from Wales and any other things by
waggon when the tyde is out to Chester and other parts. From Burton
w^{ch} was on y^e side of England the shore, I went to y^e fferry 9
miles to the river Meresy another great River and a perfect sea for 20
mile or more. It Comes out of Lancashire from Warrington and both this
and y^e Dee Empts themselves into y^e sea almost together a few Leagues
from Leverpoole, w^{ch} poole is form’d by a poynt of land that runs
almost round the Entrance from y^e sea, being narrow and hazardous to
strangers to saile in in the winter. Y^e mouth of y^e river by reason of
y^e Sands and Rocks is a gate to y^e River; this I ferry’d over and was
an hour and halfe in y^e passage, its of great breadth and at low water
is so deep and salt as y^e sea almost, tho’ it does not Cast so green a
hew on y^e water as ye sea, but else the waves toss and y^e Rocks grate
all round it and is as dangerous as y^e sea. Its a sort of Hoy that I
ferried over and my horses—y^e boate would have held 100 people.
Leverpoole w^{ch} is in Lancashire is built just on the river Mersy
mostly new built houses of brick and stone after the London fashion; y^e
first original was a few fishermens houses and now is grown to a large
fine town and but a parish and one Church, tho’ there be 24 streetes in
it. There is Indeed a little Chappell and there are a great many
dessenters in the town. Its a very Rich trading town, y^e houses of
Brick and stone built high and Even that a streete quite through Lookes
very handsome—the streetes well pitched. There are abundance of persons
you see very well dress’d and of good fashion, y^e streetes are faire
and Long, its London in miniature as much as ever I saw anything. There
is a very pretty Exchange stands on 8 pillars besides the Corners w^{ch}
are Each Arche pillars all of stone and its railed in, over w^{ch} is a
very handsome town hall—over all is a tower and Cupilow thats so high
that from thence one has y^e whole view of y^e town and the Country
round—in a Clear day you may see y^e Jsle of Man w^{ch} also was in view
from out of Wales at Harding on the high tarrass walke in my Cos’n
Percivalls garden.
Thence to Prescote 7 very long miles, but pretty good way, mostly Lanes;
there I passed by Nosel the Earle of Darbys house w^{ch} Looked very
nobly w^{th} many towers and balls on them; it stands amongst tall trees
and Lookes like a pleasant grove all about it, its an old house runs a
great Compass of ground. Y^e town of Prescote stands on a high hill, a
very pretty neate Market town—a Large market place and broad streetes
well pitch’d.
Thence to Wiggon, 7 long miles more mostly in Lanes and some hollow
wayes and some pretty deep stony way so forced us upon y^e high Causey,
but some of y^e way was good w^{ch} I went pretty fast and yet by reason
of the tediousness of y^e miles for length I was 5 hours going that 14
mile; I could have gone 30 miles about London in y^e tyme. There was
pretty much woods and Lanes through which I passed, and pass’d by a mer
or Lake of water; there are many of these here about, but not going
through Ormskerk. I avoided going by the famous Mer Call’d Martin mer
that as y^e proverb sayes has parted many a man and his mare—indeed it
being neare evening and not getting a Guide I was a little afraid to go
that way it being very hazardous for Strangers to passe by it. Some part
of y^t mer one M^r Ffleetewood has been at y^e Expence to draine so as
to be able to use the ground for tillage, having by trenches and
floodgates w^{th} banks shutt out y^e waters y^t still kept it a marsh
and moorish ground, but it was a very great Charge; however it shews by
industry and some Expence, if Gentlemen would set about it, Most of y^e
waste ground thats now a ffenny Moor and Mostly water might be rendered
usefull and in a few yeares answere y^e first great Charge on it.
Wiggons is another pretty Market town built of stone and brick: here it
is that the fine Channell Coales are in perfection—burns as light as a
Candle—set the Coales together w^{th} some fire and it shall give a snap
and burn up light. Of this Coale they make Saltcellars, Stand-dishes and
many boxes and things w^{ch} are sent about for Curiositys and sold in
London and are often offer’d in the Exchange in Company w^{th} white or
black marble and most people deceived by them w^{ch} have not been in
those Countrys and know it, but such persons discover it and will Call
for a Candle to trye them whether marble or Coale: its very finely
pollish’d and Lookes much like jett or Ebany wood for w^{ch} one might
Easily take it when in boxes &c &c. I bought some of them for Curiosity
sake. 2 mile off Wigon towards Warrington (w^{ch} was some of my way
back againe but for y^e Curiosity’s sake I did,) is the Burning well
w^{ch} burns like brandy; its a little sorry hole in one of y^e grounds
100 yards from y^e Road that Comes from Warrington to Wiggon just by a
hedge or banck, its full of dirt and mud almost but the water
Continually bubbles up as if it were a pott boyling w^{ch} is the spring
or severall springs in that place; Nevertheless I felt y^e water and it
was a Cold Spring. Y^e man w^{ch} shewed it me, w^{th} a dish tooke out
a good quantety of y^e water and threw away and then w^{th} a piece of
Rush he lighted by a Candle y^t he brought in a lanthorne, he set y^e
water in y^e well on fire and it burn’d blewish just like spirits and
Continued a good while, but by reason of y^e great raines y^t ffell y^e
night before y^e spring was weaker and had not thrown off the raine
water, otherwise it used to flame all over y^e well a good height, now
it burnt weaker; at last the wind blew out y^e mans Candle and he
severall tymes lighted y^e bitt of Rush or splinter of wood by y^e flame
y^t burnt in y^e well. This is a little unaccountable; I apprehend its a
sort of an unctious matter in y^e Earth and soe through its veines the
springs run w^{ch} Causes it so to burn, for I observ’d when they dug
into y^e banche and opened the sort of Clay or mudd, it burnt fiercer
and more from y^e well. I returned againe to Wiggon two mile and thence
to Preston and passed by S^r John Bradshaws house w^{ch} stood on y^e
declineing of a hill in y^e midst of a fine grove of trees. Severall
fine walkes and Rows of trees thereabout; just in the Road on the banck
where on the hedge stood was Errected a high stone pillar Carv’d and a
ball on y^e top with an jnscription Cutt on it shewing the Cause of it,
being the monument of an officer that in a fight just there, his horse
takeing y^e hedge and Ditch on some distaste he tooke at y^e Gunns and
smoake, flung out his sword out of y^e scabbard and flung his Master
down on y^e poynt of it w^{ch} ran him through that he dyed and Lyes
buried on y^e Spott.
Preston is reckon’d but 12 mile from Wiggon but they Exceed in Length by
farre those y^t I thought long the day before from Leverpoole; its true
to avoid the many Mers and marshy places it was a great Compass I tooke,
and passed down and up very steep hills, and this way was good Gravell
way; but passing by many very Large arches y^t were only single ones but
as Large as two great gate wayes, and y^e water I went through y^t ran
und^{er} them was so shallow notwithstanding these were Extreme high
arches, I enquired the Meaneing and was inform’d that on great raines
those brookes would be swelled to so great a height that unless those
arches were so high, noe passing while it were so.
They are but narrow bridges for foote or horse and at such floods they
are fforced in many places to boate it till they Come to those arches on
the great Bridges w^{ch} are across their great Rivers; this happens
sometymes on sudden great showers for a day or two in y^e summer, but
y^e winter is often or mostly soe that there are deep waters so as not
Easily Cross’d; but once in 3 or 4 years there is some of those very
greate floods I mentioned before, that they are fforced to boate from
bridge to bridge w^{ch} is little Enough then to secure them. I passed
by at Least half a doz^n of these high single arches besides severall
great stone Bridges of 4 or 6 arches which are very high also over their
greatest rivers. Preston stands on a hill and is a very good market
town; Satterday is their market w^{ch} day I was there and saw it was
provided with all sorts of things—Leather, Corn Coales, butter, Cheese
and fruite and garden things: there is a very spacious Market place and
pretty Church and severall good houses. At y^e Entrance of y^e town was
a very good house w^{ch} was a Lawyers all stone work 5 windows in y^e
front and high built according to y^e Eastern building near London; the
ascent to y^e house was 14 or 15 stone stepps Large and a handsome Court
with open jron Pallasadoes in the gate, and on Each side, the whole
breadth of y^e house, w^{ch} discover’d the gardens on Each side of the
house, neately kept flowers and greens; there was also many steps up to
y^e house from y^e Court—it was a Compleate building. There was 2 or 3
more such houses in y^e town and Indeed the Generallity of y^e
buildings, Especially in 2 or 3 of y^e great streetes were very
handsome, better than in most Country towns and y^e streetes spacious
and well pitch’d. I was about 4 houres going this twelve mile and Could
have gone 20 in the tyme in most Countrys, nay by the people of these
parts this twelve is as long and as much tyme taken up in going it as to
go from thence to Lancaster w^{ch} is 20 mile, and I Can Confirme this
by my own Experience for I went to Goscoyne w^{ch} is 10 miles and halfe
way to Lancaster in two houres, where I baited, and here it was I was
first presented w^{th} y^e Clap bread w^{ch} is much talked of made all
of oates. I was surpris’d when the Cloth was Laid, they brought a great
Basket such as one uses to undress Children with and set it on the table
full of thin waffers as big as Pancakes and drye that they Easily breake
into shivers, but Coming to dinner found it to be y^e only thing I must
Eate for bread. Y^e taste of oate bread is pleasant enough and where its
well made is very acceptable, but for y^e most part its scarce baked and
full of drye flour on y^e outside. Y^e description of how its made ought
to Come in here but I Reserve it to y^e place I saw it made at the best
way. As I Come to this place which was much over downs or a Race ground
I Came along by some of y^e old Picts walls, y^e ruines of which here
and there remaines in many parts of y^e Country. Gascoyn is a little
market town—one Church in it w^{ch} is a mile off from y^e town, and y^e
parish is 8 miles long, which discourag’d me in staying there being
Satterday night and so pressed on to Lancaster.
I percieve most of y^e parishes are a great tract of Land and very Large
and also beneficial, for all over Lancastershire the revenues of y^e
parsonages are Considerable 2 and 300^£ 500 and 800 a piece, y^e parson
at Liverpoole has 1100 a yeare, and its frequent Everywhere 3 or 400^£.
Thence to Lancaster town 10 mile more which I Easily Reached in 2 hours
and a halfe or 3 hours; I passed through abundance of villages almost at
y^e End of Every mile, mostly all along Lanes being an Enclosed Country.
They have one good thing in most parts of this principality, or County
palatine its rather Call’d, that at all Cross wayes there are posts
w^{th} hands pointing to each road w^{th} y^e names of y^e great town or
market towns that it Leads to, w^{ch} does make up for y^e Length of y^e
miles y^t strangers may not Loose their Road and have it to goe back
againe. You have a great divertion on this road haveing a pleasing
prospect of y^e Countrys a great distance round, and see it full of
jnclosures and some woods, three miles off y^e town you see it very
plaine and y^e sea, Even y^e main ocean; in one place an arm of it Comes
up w^{th} in 2 mile of y^e town. Y^e River Liene runs by the town and so
into y^e sea. Y^e situation of Lancaster town is very good, y^e Church
neately built of stone, y^e Castle w^{ch} is just by, both on a very
great ascent from y^e Rest of y^e town and so is in open view, y^e town
and River Lying Round it beneath. On y^e Castle tower walking quite
round by y^e battlements I saw y^e whole town and river at a view,
w^{ch} runs almost quite round and returns againe by y^e town, and saw
y^e sea beyond and y^e great high hills beyond y^t part of y^e sea,
w^{ch} are in Wales, and also into Westmoreland to the great hills there
Called ffurness ffells or hills, being a string of vast high hills
together: also into Cumberland to y^e great hill Called Black Comb hill
whence they digg their black Lead and no where Else; but they open y^e
mine but once in Severall yeares. I also saw into Yorkshire,—there is
Lead, Copper, gold and silver in some of those hills and marble and
Christall also.
Lancaster town is old and much decay’d: there has been a monastery, the
walls of part of it remaine and some of y^e Carv’d stones and ffigures;
there is in it a good garden and a pond in it w^{th} a little jsland on
w^{ch} an apple tree grows—a Jenitin; and Strawberys all round its
Rootes and y^e banks of the Little jsle. There are 2 pretty wells and a
vault that Leads a great way under ground up as farre as y^e Castle,
w^{ch} is a good distance. In the River there are great weres or falls
of water made for Salmon ffishing, where they hang their nets and Catch
great quantety’s of ffish, w^{ch} is neare the bridge. The town seemes
not to be much in trade as some others, but the great store of fish
makes them Live plentifully as also the great plenty of all provisions.
The streets are some of them well pitch’d and of a good size; when I
came into the town the stones were so slippery Crossing some Channells
that my horse was quite down on his nose, but did at length recover
himself, and so I was not thrown off or jnjured w^{ch} I desire to bless
God for, as for the many preservations I mett with. I Cannot say the
town seemes a lazy town and there are trades of all sorts, there is a
Large meeteing house, but their minister was but a mean preacher; there
are 2 Churches in the town which are pretty near Each other.
Thence I went to Kendall in Westmoreland over steepe stony hills all
like Rocks, 6 miles to one Lady Middleton, and by some Gentlemen w^{ch}
were travelling that way that was their acquaintance, had the advantage
of going through her parke, and saved the going Round a bad stony
passage. It was very pleasant under the shade of the tall trees. It was
an old timber house, but the family being from home we had a free
passage through it on to the Road againe, much of w^{ch} was stony and
steep—far worse than the Peake in Darbyshire. This Lady Middleton was a
papist and I believe the Gentlemen y^t was travelling were too. Thence
to Kendall ten mile more, most of y^e way was in Lanes when I was out of
the stony hills, and then into jnclosed Lands, here in 6 miles to the
town you have very Rich good Land Enclosed—Little round green hills
flourishing w^{th} Corn and grass as green and fresh, being in the prime
season in July. There is not much woods but only the hedge rows round
the grounds w^{ch} Looks very fine. In these Northern Countyes they have
only the summer Graine, as barley, oates, peas, beans, and Lentils, noe
wheate or Rhye for they are so cold and Late in their yeare they Cannot
venture at that sort of tillage, so have none but what they are supply’d
out of other Countys adjacent. The Land seemes here in many places very
ffertile; they have much Rhye in Lancashire Yorkshire and Stafford and
Shropshire and so Herriford and Worcestershire, w^{ch} I found very
troublesome in my journeys, for they would not own they had any such
thing in their bread, but it so disagrees w^{th} me as allwayes to make
me sick w^{ch} I found by its Effects whenever I met w^{th} any, tho’ I
did not discern it by the taste; in Suffolke and Norfolke I also met
w^{th} it, but in these parts its altogether y^e oatbread. Kendall is a
town built all of stone, one very broad streete in which is the Market
Crosse; its a goode tradeing town mostly famed for the Cottons: Kendall
Cotton is used for blanckets and the Scotts use them for their Plodds
and there is much made here and also Linsi-woolseys, and a great deale
of Leather tann’d here, and all sorts of Commodityes—twice a weeke is
y^e market ffurnished w^{th} all sorts of things.
The River Can w^{ch} gives name to the town is pretty Large but full of
Rocks and stones that makes shelves and falls in the water, its stor’d
w^{th} plenty of good ffish and there are great ffalls of water partly
naturall and added to by putting more stones in manner of Wyers, at
w^{ch} they Catch Salmon when they Leape with speares. The Roaring of
y^e water at these places sometymes does foretell wet weather; they do
observe when the water roares most in the fall on the Northside it will
be ffaire, if on the Southside of the town it will be wet. Some of them
are falls as high as a house. The same observation is at Lancaster at
the Wires where they Catch Salmon; against Stormes or raines it will be
turbulent and Rore as may be heard into the town. There are 3 or 4 good
houses in the town, y^e rest are like good traders houses very neate and
tight. The streetes are all pitch’d w^{ch} is Extreame Easy to be
repair’d, for the whole Country is like one Entire Rock or pitching
almost all y^e Roads. At the Kings arms, one M^{rs} Rowlandson, she does
pott up the Charr ffish the best of any in the Country: I was Curious to
have some and so bespoke some of her, and also was as Curious to see the
great water w^{ch} is the only place that ffish is to be found in, and
so went from Kendall to Bondor 6 miles thro’ narrow Lanes, but the Lands
in y^e jnclosures are Rich. But here Can be noe Carriages, but very
narrow ones like Little wheele-barrows that with a horse they Convey
their fewell and all things Else. They also use horses on which they
have a sort of Pannyers some Close, some open, that they strew full of
hay turff and Lime and Dung and Every thing they would use, and the
reason is plaine, from the narrowness of the Lanes where is good Lands
they will Loose as Little as they Can, and where its hilly and stoney no
other Carriages Can pass, so they use these horse Carriages, and
abundance of horses I see all about Kendall streetes with their Burdens.
This Kendall is the biggest town and much in y^e heart of Westmoreland,
but Appleby 10 mile off is the shire town where the session and assizes
are held and is 7 miles to this great Lake Wiandermer or great standing
water w^{ch} is 10 mile long and near halfe a mile over in some places.
It has many Little hills or jsles in it, one of a great bigness of 30
acres of ground on which is a house, y^e Gentleman that is Lord of y^e
Manour Lives in it—S^r Christopher Phillips; he has a great Command of
y^e water and of y^e villages thereabout and many Priviledges, he makes
a Major or Bailiff of y^e place during life; its but a small mean place,
M^r Majors was the best Entertaining house where I was. Y^e Isle did not
Looke to be so bigg at y^e shore, but takeing boate I went on it and
found it as large and very good Barley and oates and grass. The water is
very Cleer and full of good ffish, but y^e Charr ffish being out of
season Could not Easily be taken, so I saw none alive but of other ffish
I had a very good supper. The season of the Charr ffish is between
Michaelmas and Christmas; at that tyme I have had of them, w^{ch} they
pott with sweete spices. They are as big as a small trout, Rather
slenderer and y^e skinn full of spotts, some Red Like the finns of a
Perch and the jnside flesh Looks as Red as any salmon if they are in
season; their taste is very Rich and fatt tho’ not so strong or Clogging
as the Lamprys are, but its as fatt and Rich a food. This great water
seemes to flow and wane about with y^e wind but it does not Ebb and flow
Like the sea with the tyde, neither does it run so as to be perceivable,
tho’ at y^e End of it a Little Rivulet trills from it into the Sea, but
it seemes to be a standing Lake Encompass’d with vast high hills, y^t
are perfect Rocks and barren ground of a vast height, from which many
Little Springs out of y^e Rock does bubble up and descend down and fall
into this water. Notwithstanding great raines y^e water does not seem
much Encreas’d tho’ it must be so, then it does draine off more at the
End of the Lake. These hills w^{ch} they Call Ffurness Ffells a long Row
Continued some miles, and some of them are Call’d Donum ffells and soe
from the places they adjoyne to are named, but they hold the whole
length of the water w^{ch} is 10 mile; they have fome parts of them that
has wayes that they Can by degrees in a Compass ascend them and so they
go onward. In the Countrys, they are fferried over the Lake when they go
to market. On y^e other side over those ffells there is a sort of Stones
Like Rubbish or Broken pieces of stones, w^{ch} Lies about a quarry,
that Lies all in the bottom of y^e water; where its so shallow as at the
shores it is and very Cleer you see the bottom; between these stones are
weeds w^{ch} grows up, that I had some taken up just Like samfyer and I
have a fancy its a sort of sampire that Indeed is gather’d in y^e Rocks
by the sea and water, and this grows in the water but it resembles it in
Coullour, ffigure and the taste not much unlike—it was somewhat
waterish. There was also fine moss growing in the bottom of y^e water.
Here it was I saw y^e oat Clap bread made. They mix their flour with
water, so soft as to rowle it in their hands into a ball, and then they
have a board made round and something hollow in the middle riseing by
degrees all round to the Edge a little higher, but so little as one
would take it to be only a board warp’d, this is to Cast out the Cake
thinn and so they Clap it round and drive it to y^e Edge in a Due
proportion till drove as thinn as a paper and still they Clap it and
drive it round, and then they have a plaite of jron same size w^{th}
their Clap board, and so shove off the Cake on it and so set it on
Coales and bake it; when Enough on one side they slide it off and put
the other side; if their jron plaite is smooth and they take Care their
Coales or Embers are not too hot but just to make it Looke yellow, it
will bake and be as Crisp and pleasant to Eate as any thing you Can
jmagine, but as we say of all sorts of bread there is a vast deal of
difference in what is housewifely made and what is ill made, so this if
its well mixed and Rowled up and but a little flour on the outside which
will drye on and make it mealy is a very good sort of food. This is the
sort of bread they use in all these Countrys, and in Scotland they
breake into their milk or broth or Else sup that up and bite off their
bread between while they spread butter on it and Eate it with their
meate. They have no other Sort of bread unless at market towns and that
is scarce to be had unless the market dayes, soe they make their Cake
and Eate it presently, for its not so good if 2 or 3 dayes old. It made
me reflect on the description made in Scripture of this Kneeding Cakes
and bakeing them on the hearth whenever they had Company Come to their
houses, and I Cannot but thinke it was after this manner they made their
bread in y^e old tymes Especially those Eastern Countryes where their
bread might be soone dry’d and spoil’d. Their little Carts I was
speakeing of they use hereabout, the wheeles are fastned to the axletree
and so turn altogether, they hold not above what 5 wheelbarrows would
Carry at three or four tymes, which the Girles and Boys and women does
go about with drawn by one horse to Carry any thing they want. Here is a
great deal of good grass and Summer Corn and pastures, its Rich Land in
the bottoms as one may Call them Considering the vast hills above them
on all sides, yet they Contain a number of Lesser hills one below
another, so that tho’ at one Looke you think it but a little Land Every
body has; Yet it being so full of hills its many acres w^{ch} if at
Length in a plain would Extend a vast way. I was about a quarter of an
hour in the boate before I reach’d y^e island w^{ch} is in the midst of
the water so by that you may guesse at the breadth of the water in the
whole, they fferry man and horse over it; its sometymes perfectly Calme.
Thence I Rode almost all the waye in sight of this great water, some
tymes I lost it by reason of y^e great hills interposeing and so a
Continu’d up hill and down hill and that pretty steep, even when I was
in that they Called bottoms w^{ch} are very rich good grounds, and so I
gained by degrees from Lower to higher hills w^{ch} I allwayes went up
and down before I Came to another hill. At last I attained to the side
of one of these hills or ffells of Rocks, w^{ch} I passed on the side
much about the Middle, for Looking down to the bottom it was at Least a
Mile all full of those Lesser hills and jnclosures, so Looking upward I
was as farre from the top which was all Rocks, and something more barren
tho’ there was some trees and woods growing in y^e Rocks and hanging
over all down y^e Brow of some of the hills. From these great ffells
there are severall springs out of y^e Rock that trickle down their
sides, and as they meete with stones and Rocks in the way, when
something obstructs their passage and so they Come with more violence,
that gives a pleaseing sound and murmuring noise. These descend by
degrees at last fall into the Low grounds and fructifye it w^{ch} makes
y^e Land soe ffruit full in the valleys, and upon those very high ffells
or Rocky hills its (tho’) soe high yet a moorish sort of ground whence
they digg abundance of Peat w^{ch} they use for their fewell, being in
many places a barren ground yeilding noe wood &c. I rode in sight of
this Winander water as I was ascending another of those barren ffells
w^{ch} tho’ I at last was not halfe way up, yet was an hour going it up
and down on the other side, going only on the side of it about y^e
middle of it, but it was of such a height as to shew one a great deale
of y^e Country when it happens to be between those hills, Else those
interposeing hinders any sight but of y^e Clouds. I see a good way
behind me another of those waters or mers but not very bigge. These
great hills are so full of Loose stones and shelves of Rocks y^t its
very unsafe to Ride them down.
There is good Marble amongst those Rocks. As I walked down at this place
I was walled on both sides by those inaccessible high rocky barren hills
w^{ch} hangs over ones head in some places and appears very terrible,
and from them springs many Little Currents of water from the sides and
Clefts, w^{ch} trickle down to some Lower part where it runs swiftly
over the stones and shelves in the way, w^{ch} makes a pleasant Rush and
murmuring noise, and Like a snowball is Encreased by Each spring
trickling down on either side of those hills, and so descends into the
bottoms w^{ch} are a moorish ground in w^{ch} in many places the waters
stand, and so forme some of those Lakes as it did here. Y^e Confluence
of all these little springs being gathered together in this lake, w^{ch}
was soe deep as the Current of water y^t passed through it was scarce to
be perceived till one Came to the farther End from whence it run a good
little River and pretty quick, over w^{ch} many bridges are Laid. Here I
Came to villages of sad little hutts made up of drye walls, only stones
piled together and y^e Roofs of same slatt; there seemed to be little or
noe tunnells for their Chimneys and have no morter or Plaister within or
without. For the most part I tooke them at first sight for a sort of
houses or Barns to fodder Cattle in, not thinking them to be dwelling
houses, they being scattering houses, here one, there another, in some
places they may be 20 or 30 together; and the Churches the same. It must
needs be very Cold dwellings, but it shews some thing of y^e Lazyness of
y^e people; indeed here and there there was a house plaister’d, but
there is sad Entertainment—that sort of Clap bread and butter and Cheese
and a Cup of beer all one Can have, they are 8 mile from a market town
and their miles are tedious to go both for illness of way and length of
y^e miles.
They reckon it but 8 mile from the place I was at the night before, but
I was 3 or 4 hours at Least going it. Here I found a very good smith to
shoe y^e horses, for these stony hills and wayes pulls off a shoe
presently, and wears them as thinn that it was a Constant Charge to shoe
my horses every 2 or 3 dayes, but this smith did shoe them so well and
so good shoes y^t they held some of the shooes 6 weekes. Y^e stonyness
of the wayes all here about teaches them y^e art of makeing good shooes
and setting them on fast. Here I cross’d one of y^e stone bridges y^t
was pretty Large w^{ch} Entred me into Cumberlandshire. This River
together with y^e additionall springs Continually running into it all
the way from those vaste precipices Comes into a Low place and form a
broad water w^{ch} is very Cleer and Reaches 7 mile in Length, Uleswater
its Called, such another water as that of Wiandermer only that reaches
10 mile in Length, from Amblside to y^e sea, and this is but 7 such
miles Long. Its full of such sort of Stones and flatts in the bottom as
y^e other, neer the brimm where its Shallowe you see it Cleer to y^e
bottom; this is secured on Each side by such formidable heights as those
Rocky ffells in same manner as the other was. I rode the whole Length of
this water by its side, sometyme a Little higher upon the side of the
hill and sometyme just by the shore, and for 3 or 4 miles I Rode through
a fine fforest or Parke where was deer skipping about and haires, w^{ch}
by meanes of a good Greyhound I had a Little Course, but we being
strangers could not so fast pursue it in the grounds full of hillocks
and ffurse and soe she Escaped us. I observed the boundaries of all
these great waters (which are a sort of deep Lakes or kind of standing
waters) are those sort of Barren Rocky hills w^{ch} are so vastly high.
I Call this a standing water because its not like other great Rivers as
y^e Trent Severne, Hull or Thames &c. to appear to Run w^{th} a streame
or Current, but only as it Rowles from side to side Like waves as the
wind moves it; its true at the End of this being a Low fall of Ground it
runs off in a Little streame. There is Exceeding good ffish here and all
sorts of provision at y^e market towns. Their market town was Peroth 10
long miles. A mile or two beyond this Ullswater,—Tuesday is the market
day w^{ch} was the Day I came thither. Its a Long way for y^e market
people to goe but they and their horses are used to it and go w^{th}
much more facility than strangers. At y^e end of this Ullswater is a
fine round hill Look’d as green and full of wood very pleasant, w^{th}
grass and Corne very ffruitefull, and hereabout we Leave these Desart
and Barren Rocky hills, not that they are Limitted to Westmoreland only
for had I gone farther to y^e Left hand into Cumberland I should have
found more such, and they tell me farr worse for height and stony-nesse
about White haven side and Cockermouth, so y^t tho’ both the County’s
have very good land and fruitfull, so they equally partake of y^e bad,
tho’ Indeed Westmoreland takes it name from its aboundings in springs
which distilling itself on Lower ground, if of a spungy soile made it
marshy or Lakes, and in many places very fruitfull in summer graine and
grasse, but y^e northerly winds blow Cold so long on them y^t they never
attempt sowing their Land with wheate or Rhye. Y^e stones and slatt
about Peroth Look’d so Red y^t at my Entrance into the town thought its
buildings were all of brick, but after found it to be the Coullour of
the stone w^{ch} I saw in the Quarrys Look very Red, their slatt is the
same w^{ch} Cover their houses. Its a pretty Large town—a good Market
for Cloth that they spinn in the Country—hempe and also woollen. Its a
great Market for all sorts of Cattle, meate Corne &c &c. Here are two
Rivers one Called y^e Emount w^{ch} parts Cumberland and Westmoreland,
w^{ch} bridge I should have passed over had I Come the direct Roade from
Kendall to Peroth, but strikeing off to Ambleside to Wiandermer I came
another End of y^e town. In this River are greate falls of waters Call’d
Cataracts, by Reason of the Rock and shelves in it w^{ch} makes a great
noise w^{ch} is heard more against foul weathers into the town, tho’ the
bridge be halfe a mile out of y^e town. The other River is Called Louder
w^{ch} gives name to Lord Landsdown’s house Call’d Louder hall w^{ch} is
four mile from Peroth. I went to it through fine woods, the front is
just faceing the great roade from Kendall and Lookes very nobly, w^{th}
severall Rows of trees w^{ch} Leads to Large jron gates, open barres,
into the stable yard w^{ch} is a fine building on y^e one side of y^e
house very uniform, and just against it is such another Row of buildings
y^e other side of y^e house Like two wings w^{ch} is the offices. Its
built Each Like a fine house jutting out at Each End and y^e middle is
w^{th} Pillars, white, and Carvings Like the Entrance of a building.
These are just Equal and alike and Encompass the two sides of the first
Court w^{ch} Enters, with Large jron gates and jron Palasadoes in the
breadth, and then there is an ascent of 15 stone steps turned round,
very Large, and on the top Large jron gates pallisad of jron betweene
stone pillars, w^{ch} runs the breadth of the front. This Court is with
paved walks of broad stone, one broad one to the house, y^e other of
same breadth runs aCrosse to the stables and offices, and so there is 4
Large Squares of grass in w^{ch} there is a large Statue of Stone in the
midst of Each, and 4 Little Cupids or Little Boys in Each Corner of the
4 squares. Then one ascends severall more steps to another Little Court
v^{th} open Iron Railes, and this is divided Into severall grass plotts
by paved walks of stone to the severall doores, some of w^{ch} are
straight, others slope: the grass plotts being seven and in Each statue
the middle-most is taller than the rest, this is just the front of y^e
house where you Enter a porch w^{th} Pillars of Lime stone, but y^e
house is y^e Red sort of stone of y^e Country. Below staires you Enter a
space that Leads severall wayes to all the offices, and on one side is a
Large parlour w^{ch} Lookes out on these green plotts w^{th} images. The
staircase very well wanscoated and Carv’d, at y^e top you are Landed
into a noble hall very Lofty, the top and sides are exquisitely painted
by y^e best hand in England which did the painting at Windsor. The Top
is the Gods and goddesses that are sitting at some great feast and a
great tribunal before y^m; Each Corner is the seasons of the yeare
w^{th} the variety of weather Raines and rainbows, stormy winds, sun
shine, snow and frost with multitudes of other fancys and varietyes in
painting and Looks very natural—it Cost 500^£ that roome alone. Thence
into a Dineing room and drawing roome well wanscoated of oake, Large
pannells plaine, no frettwork nor Carvings or Glass worke, only in
Chimney pieces. 3 handsome Chambers, one scarlet Cloth strip’d and very
fashionably made up, the hangings the same, another flower’d Damaske
Lined with fine jndian Embroidery, the third Roome had a blew satten bed
Embroider’d. In this Roome was very fine orris hangings in w^{ch} was
much silk and gold and silver; a Little Roome by in w^{ch} was a green
and white Damaske Canopy bed w^{ch} was hung w^{th} some of the same
hangings being made for y^e Duke of Lortherdale and had his armes in
many places—by his Dying were sold to Lord Landsdon.
They Containe a Scottish story of the 4 quarters of the yeare. The
roomes are all well pitch’d and well ffinish’d, and many good Pictures
of y^e family, and severall good fancy’s of human and animals, a good
gallery so adorn’d w^{ch} Leads to a Closet that Looks into y^e
Chappell; all things very neate tho’ nothing Extraord^y besides y^e hall
painting. The Chimney pieces are of a dark Coull^d Marble w^{ch} is
taken out of the ground just by—its well polish’d. There was some few
white marble vein’d, but that is not Dug out of this Country. The house
is a flatt rooffe and stands amidst a wood of Rows of trees, w^{ch}
w^{th} these statues and those in two gardens on Each side (w^{ch} for
their walks and plantations is not ffinish’d but full of Statues) which
with the house is so well Contrived to be seen at one view. Y^e Lady
Landsdown sent and treated me with a Breakfast, Cold things and sweete
meates all serv’d in plaite, but it was so Early in the morning that she
being jndisposed was not up. So I returned back 4 mile to Peroth and
Came in sight of Severall Genteele seates or Gentlemens houses, and Came
by a Round green spott of a Large Circumfference which they keep Cut
round w^{th} a banke round it like a Bench; its story is that it was the
table a great Giant 6 yards tall, used to Dine at, and there Entertain’d
anoth^r of nine yards tall which he afterwards killed; there is the
Length in the Church yard how far he Could Leape—a great many Yards.
There was also on the Church at Peroth a fine Clock w^{ch} had severall
motions—there was the Starrs and signes, there was the Encrease and
Changes of y^e moone, by a Darke and golden side of a Little Globe. A
mile from Peroth in a Low bottom and moorish place stands Mag and her
sisters; the story is that these soliciting her to an unlawfull Love by
an Enchantment are turned w^{th} her into stone; the stone in the middle
w^{ch} is Call’d Mag is much bigger and have some fforme Like a statue
or ffigure of a body, but the Rest are but soe many Craggy stones, but
they affirme they Cannot be Counted twice alike as is the story of
Stonidge, but the number of these are not above 30. However what the
first design of placeing them there Either as a marke of y^t sort of
moorish Ground or what Else, the thing is not so wonderfull as that of
Stonidge, because there is noe such sort of stone in 20 miles off those
downs and how they of so vast a bulk and weight should be brought
thither, whereas all this Country abounds with Quarrys of stone and its
mostly Rocks. The waye from thence to Carlisle over much heath where
they have many stone Quarrys and Cut much peate and turff w^{ch} is
their Chief fuel. Its reckon’d but 16 mile from Peroth to Carlisle, but
they are pretty Long, besides my going out of y^e waye above 3 or 4 mile
w^{ch} made it 20. They were very Long and I was a great while Rideing
it. You pass by the Little hutts and hovels the poor Live in Like
Barnes—some have them daub’d w^{th} mud-wall—others drye walls.
Carlisle stands in view at Least 4 mile distant, y^e town is walled in
and all built of stone. The Cathedrall stands high and very Eminent to
be seen above y^e town. You Enter over the Bridge and Double gates
w^{ch} are jron grates and Lined w^{th} a Case of doores of thick
timber, there are 3 gates to the town, one Called the English gate at
which I entred. The other the jrish w^{ch} Leads on to Whitehaven and
Cockermouth, the other y^e Scottish gate through which I went into
Scotland. The walls of the town and Battlements and towers are in very
good Repaire and Looks well. Y^e Cathedrall all built of stone which
Looked stately but nothing Curious; there was some few houses as y^e
Deans and treasurer and some of y^e Doctors houses walled in with Little
gardens, their fronts Looked Gracefully; Else I saw no house Except the
present Majors house of brick and stone, and one house which was y^e
Chancellors built of stone very Lofty, 5 good sarshe windows in y^e
front, and this within a Stone wall’d Garden well kept, and Iron gates
to discover it to view with stone Pillars. Ye streetes are very broad
and handsome well Pitched.
I walked round the walls and saw the River w^{ch} twists and turns
itself round the grounds, Called the Emount, w^{ch} at 3 or 4 miles off
is flow’d by the sea. The other River is the Essex w^{ch} is very broad
and Ebbs and flows about a mile or two off. There Remaines only some of
the walls and ruines of y^e Castle, w^{ch} does shew it to have been a
very strong town formerly. The walls are of a prodigious thickness and
vast great stones, its moated round and with draw bridges. There is a
Large Market place w^{th} a good Cross and hall, and is well supply’d as
I am Inform’d w^{th} provision at Easye rate, but my Landlady
notwithstanding ran me up the Largest Reckoning for allmost nothing, it
was y^e dearest Lodging I met with and she pretended she Could get me
nothing else; so for 2 joynts of mutton and a pinte of wine and bread
and beer I had a 12 shilling Reckoning, but since I find tho’ I was in
the biggest house in town I was in the worst accomodation, and so found
it, and a young giddy Landlady y^t Could only Dress fine and Entertain
the soldiers. From hence I tooke a guide the next day and so went for
Scotland and Rode 3 or 4 mile by y^e side of this River Emount w^{ch} is
full of very good ffish. I Rode sometymes on a high Ridge over a hill,
sometymes on the sands, it turning and winding about that I went almost
all the way by it and saw them with boates fishing for Salmon and
troute, w^{ch} made my journey very pleasant. Leaving this River I Came
to the Essex w^{ch} is very broad and hazardous to Crosse Even when the
tyde is out, by which it leaves a broad sand on Each side, which in some
places is unsafe, made me take a good guide which Carry’d me aboute and
a Crosse some part of it here, and some part in another place, it being
Deep in y^e Channell where I did Crosse w^{ch} was in sight of y^e mouth
of the river that runs into the sea. On the sand before the water was
quite gone from it I saw a great bird w^{ch} Look’d almost black picking
up ffish and busking in the water, it Looked like an Eagle and by its
dimentions Could scarce be any other bird. Thence I went into Scotland
over the river Serke which is also flowed by y^e sea, but in the Summer
tyme is not soe deep but Can be pass’d over—tho’ pretty deep but narrow.
It affords good ffish, but all here about w^{ch} are Called borderers
seem to be very poor people w^{ch} I impute to their sloth. Scotland
this part of it is a Low Marshy ground where they Cutt turff and peate
for the fewell, tho’ I should apprehend y^e sea might Convey Coales to
them. I see Little that they are Employ’d besides ffishing w^{ch} makes
provision plentifull or Else their Cutting and Carving turff and peate,
w^{ch} the women and great Girles bare legged does Lead a horse w^{ch}
draws a sort of carriage, the Wheeles like a Dung-pott and hold about 4
wheele barrows. These people tho’ with naked Leggs are yet wrapp’d up in
plodds, a piece of woollen Like a Blanket, or Else Rideing hoods—and
this when they are in their houses. I tooke them for people w^{ch} were
sick, seeing 2 or 3 great wenches as tall and bigg as any woman sat
hovering between their bed and Chimney corner, all jdle doing nothing or
at Least was not settled to any work tho’ it was nine of the Clock when
I Came thither, haveing gone 7 long miles that morning. This is a Little
Market town Called Adison Bank the houses Look just Like the booths at a
fair, I am sure j have been in some of them that were tollerable
dwellings to these, they have no Chimneys, their smoke Comes out all
over the house and there are great holes in y^e sides of their houses
w^{ch} Letts out the smoake when they have been well smoaked in it.
There is no Roome in their houses but is up to y^e thatch and in which
are 2 or 3 beds, Even to their parlours and buttery, and notwithstanding
y^e Cleaning of their parlour for me I was not able to beare the roome;
the smell of the hay was a perfume and what I Rather Chose to stay and
see my horses Eate their provender in the stable than to stand in y^t
roome for I Could not bring my self to sit down. My Landlady offered me
a good dish of ffish and brought me butter in a Lairdly Dish with the
Clap bread, but I Could have no stomach to Eate any of the ffood they
should order, and finding they had noe wheaten bread I told her I Could
not Eate their Clapt out bread, soe I bought the ffish she got for me
w^{ch} was full Cheape Enough, nine pence for two pieces of Salmon halfe
a one neer a yard Long, and a very Large trout of an amber Coullour, soe
drinking w^{th} out Eateing some of their wine w^{ch} was Exceeding good
Claret w^{ch} they stand Conveniently for to have from France, and
Indeed it was the best and truest Ffrench wine I have dranck this seven
year and very Clear, I had y^e first tapping of y^e Little vessell and
it was very fine. Then I went up to their Church w^{ch} Looks Rather
Like some Little house built of stone and bricke such as our ordinary
people in a village Live in. Y^e doores were and y^e Seates and pulpit
was in so disregarded a manner that one would have thought there was no
use of it, but there is a parson which Lives just by, whose house is y^e
best in the place, and they are all fine folks in their Sundays
Cloathes. I observe y^e Church yard is full of grave stones pretty Large
with Coates of armes, and some had a Coronet on the Eschutcheons Cut in
the stone. I saw but one house that Look’d Like a house about a quarter
of a mile, w^{ch} was some gentlemans that was built 2 or 3 roomes and
some over them of brick and stone, the rest were all Like Barns or hutts
for Cattle. This is threescore miles from Edenborough and the neerest
town to this place is 18 miles, and there would not have been much
better entertainement or accomodation, and their miles are soe long in
these Countrys made me afraid to venture, Least after a tedious journey
I should not be able to get a bed I Could Lye in. It seemes there are
very few towns Except Edenburough Abberdeen and Kerk w^{ch} Can give
better treatement to strangers, therefore for the most part persons y^t
travell there go from one Noblemans house to another. Those houses are
all Kind of Castles and they Live great tho’ in so nasty a way as all
things are in even those houses one has Little Stomach to Eate or use
anything, as I have been told by some that has travell’d there, and I am
sure I mett with a sample of it enough to discourage my progress farther
in Scotland. I attribute it wholly to their sloth for I see they sitt
and do Little. I think there were one or two at Last did take spinning
in hand at a Lazy way. Thence I tooke my ffish to Carry it to a place
for the English to dress it and repass’d the Serke and the River Essex
and there I saw y^e Common people men women and Children take off their
shooes, and holding up their Cloathes wade through the rivers when y^e
tide was out, and truely some there were that when they Come to y^e
other side put on shoes and stockings and had ffine Plodds Cast over
them and their Garb seemed above y^e Common people; but this is their
Constant way of travelling from one place to anoth^r—if any river to
pass they make no use of Bridges and have not many. I Came to Long town
w^{ch} is 3 long mile from Addison Bank and is Called a Border and
Indeed is very like y^e Scotsland. Thence I Cross’d over a tedious long
heath to Brampton a mile over Lime River and here I had my dinner
dress’d—thence to Mucks hall 6 miles. Here I pass’d by my Lord Carletons
which stands in the midst of woods. You goe through Lanes and Little
sort of woods or hedge rows and many Little purling rivers or Brooks out
of y^e rocks. At Muneks Hall I Cross’d such another brooke and so out of
Cumberland I Entred Northumberland. This is y^e place y^e judges Dine,
its a sorry place for Entertainement of such a Company; here the
Sherriffs meete them, it being the Entrance of Northumberland w^{ch} is
much Like the other County. This it seemes Camden relates to be a
Kingdom. This I am sure of, the more I travell’d Northward the Longer I
found y^e miles, I am sure these 6 miles and y^e other 6 miles to
Hartwhistle might with modesty be esteemed double the Number in most of
y^e Countys in England, Especially in and about 30 or 40 miles off
London. I did not go 2 of those miles in an hour. Just at my Entrance
into Northumberland I ascended a very steep hill of w^{ch} there are
many, but one about 2 mile forward was Exceeding steep, full of great
Rocks and stone—some of it along on a Row (the remainder of the Picts
walls or ffortification) at y^e bottom of w^{ch} was an old Castle the
walls and towers of which was mostly Standing. Its a sort of Black
moorish ground and so wet I observ’d as my Man Rode up that sort of
precipice or steep his horses heeles Cast up water every step, and their
feete Cut deepe in, Even quite up to y^e top. Such up and down hills and
sort of boggy ground it was and y^e night Drawing fast on, y^e miles so
Long, that I tooke a guide to direct me to avoid those ill places. This
Hartwhistle is a Little town, there was one Inn but they had noe hay nor
would get none, and when my servants had got some Else where they were
angry and would not Entertaine me, so I was forced to take up in a poor
Cottage w^{ch} was open to y^e Thatch and no partitions but hurdles
plaistered. Indeed y^e Loft as they Called it w^{ch} was over the other
roomes was shelter’d but w^{th} a hurdle; here I was fforced to take up
my abode and y^e Landlady brought me out her best sheetes w^{ch} serv’d
to secure my own sheetes from her dirty blanckets, and Indeed I had her
fine sheete to spread over y^e top of the Clothes; but noe sleepe Could
I get, they burning turff and their Chimneys are sort of fflews or open
tunnills, y^t y^e smoake does annoy the roomes. This is but 12 miles
from another part of Scotland, the houses are but a Little better built,
its true the inside of them are kept a Little better. Not far from this
a Mile or two is a greate hill from which rises 3 rivers: the Teese
w^{ch} is y^e border between Durham and York, y^e Ouse that runns to
Yorke, and the River Tyne which runns to NewCastle and is the divider of
Northumberland and Durham. This river Tyne runns 7 miles and then joyns
w^{th} the other river Tyne that Comes out of Northumberland and so they
run on to NewCastle. From Hartwhistle I went pretty much up hill and
down and had the River Tyne much in view for 6 miles, then I cross’d
over it on a Large stone bridge and so Rode by its bank or pretty much
in sight of it on the other side to Hexholme 6 mile more. This is one of
the best towns in Northumberland Except NewCastle, w^{ch} is one place
the Sessions are kept for the shire; its built of Stone and looks very
well, there are 2 gates to it, many streetes, some are pretty broad, all
well pitch’d, w^{th} a spacious Market place w^{th} a town hall on the
Market Crosse. Thence I went through y^e Lord Darentwaters parke just by
his house w^{ch} is an old building not very Large, for 3 mile in all,
to a Little village where I cross’d over the Tyne on a Long Bridge of
stone w^{th} many arches. The river is in some places broader than in
others, its true at this tyme of y^e yeare being Midsumer the springs
are the Lowest and the Rivers shallow, and where there is any Rocks or
stones Left quite bare of water.
Thence I went 4 mile along by the Tyne, the road was good hard gravelly
way for the most part, but very steep up hills and down; on one of these
I Rode a pretty while w^{th} a great precipice on the Right hand down to
the river, it Looked hazardous, but the way was very broad. The River
Looked very reffreshing and y^e Cattle Coming to its sides and into it
where shallow to Coole themselves in the heate, for hitherto as I met
w^{th} noe Raines, notwithstanding the great raines y^t fell the 2 dayes
before I Left Woolsley, and y^e Little showers I had when I went to
Hollywell I was not annoy’d w^{th} wet nor Extream heat, the Clouds
being a shade to me by day and Gods good providence and protection all
wayes. This after noon was the hottest day I met with but it was
seasonable being in July. As I drew nearer and nearer to NewCastle I met
with and saw abundance of Little Carriages w^{th} a yoke of oxen and a
pair of horses together, w^{ch} is to Convey the Coales from y^e pitts
to y^e Barges on the river. There is Little sort of Dung-potts. I
suppose they hold not above 2 or three Chaudron. This is the sea Coale
which is pretty much small Coale tho’ some is round Coales, yet none
like the Cleft coales and this is what y^e smiths use and it Cakes in
y^e ffire and makes a great heate, but it burns not up Light unless you
put most round Coales w^{ch} will burn Light, but then its soon gone and
that part of y^e Coale never Cakes, there fore y^e small sort is as good
as any—if its black and shineing, that shows its goodness. This Country
all about is full of this Coale, y^e sulpher of it taints y^e aire and
it smells strongly to strangers,—upon a high hill 2 mile from NewCastle
I could see all about the Country w^{ch} was full of Coale pitts.
New-Castle Lies in a bottom very Low, it appears from this hill a greate
fflatt. I saw all by the river Tyne w^{ch} runns along to Tinmouth 5 or
6 miles off, w^{ch} Could see very plaine and y^e Scheld w^{ch} is the
key or ffort at the mouth of y^e river w^{ch} disembogues itself into
y^e sea; all this was in view on this high hill w^{ch} I descended—5
mile more, in all nine from that place.
NewCastle is a town and County of itself standing part in Northumberland
part in y^e Bishoprick of Durham, the river Tyne being y^e division. Its
a noble town tho’ in a bottom, it most resembles London of any place in
England, its buildings Lofty and Large, of brick mostly or stone. The
streetes are very broad and handsome and very well pitch’d, and many of
them w^{th} very ffine Cunduits of water in Each allwayes running into a
Large stone Cistern for Every bodyes use. There is one great streete
where in y^e Market Crosse, there was one great Cunduit with two spouts
w^{ch} falls into a Large ffountaine paved w^{th} stone which held at
Least 2 or 3 hodsheads for the jnhabitants. There are 4 gates w^{ch} are
all Double gates with a sort of Bridge between Each. The west gate
w^{ch} I entred I came by a Large building of bricke within bricke
walls, which is the hall for the assizes and sessions for the shire of
Northumberland. This is NewCastle on y^e Tyne and is a town and County.
There is a noble Building in the middle of the town all of stone for an
Exchange on stone pillars severall rows. On the top is a building of a
very Large hall for the judges to keep the assizes for the town; there
is another roome for y^e Major and Councill and another for the jury out
of the Large roome w^{ch} is the hall, and opens into a Balcony w^{ch}
Looks out on y^e River and y^e Key. Its a Lofty good building of stone,
very uniforme on all sides w^{th} stone pillars in the ffronts both to
the streete and market place and to the waterside. There is a ffine
Clock on the top just as y^e Royal Exchange has. The Key is a very ffine
place and Lookes itself Like an Exchange being very broad and soe full
of merchants walking to and againe, and it runs off a great Length
w^{th} a great many steps down to y^e water for the Conveniency of
Landing or boateing their goods, and is full of Cellars or ware houses.
Ye harbour is full of shipps but none that is above 2 or 300 tun Can
Come up quite to the Key: its a town of greate trade. There is one Large
Church built of stone w^{th} a very high tower finely Carv’d full of
spires and severall devises in the Carving—all stone. The Quire is neate
as is the whole Church and Curious Carving in wood on each side the
quire, and over the ffront is a great Piramidy of wood ffinely Carv’d
full of spires. There was a Castle in this town but now there is noe
remaines of it but some of y^e walls w^{ch} are built up in houses and
soe only appears as a great hill or ascent, w^{ch} in some places is 30
or 40 steps advance to the streetes that are built on y^e higher ground
where the Castle was. There was one place soe Like Snow Hill in London
w^{th} a fine Conduite. Their shops are good and are of Distinct trades,
not selling many things in one shop as is y^e Custom in most Country
towns and Cittys; here is one market for Corne, another for Hay, besides
all other things w^{ch} takes up two or three streetes. Satturday was
their biggest Market day w^{ch} was the Day I was there, and by Reason
of the extreame heate resolved to stay till the sun was Low ere I
proceeded farther, so had the opportunity of seeing most of the Market
w^{ch} is Like a ffaire for all sorts of provision, and good and very
Cheape. I saw one buy a quarter of Lamb ffor 3^d and 2^d a piece: good
Large poultry. Here is Leather, Woollen and Linnen and all sorts of
stands for baubles. They have a very jndifferent sort of Cheese—Little
things, Looks black on the outside. There is a very pleasant
bowling-green, a Little walke out of the town w^{th} a Large gravel
walke round it w^{th} two Rows of trees on Each side Makeing it very
shady: there is a fine entertaineing house y^t makes up the ffourth
side, before w^{ch} is a paved walke and Epyasses of bricke. There is a
pretty Garden, by y^e side a shady walk, its a sort of spring garden
where the Gentlemen and Ladyes walke in the Evening—there is a green
house in the garden, its a pleasant walke to the town by y^e walls.
There is one broad walke by the side of y^e town runns a good Length
made w^{th} Coale ashes and so well trodden, and the raines makes it
firm. There is a walke all round the walls of the town. There is a good
ffree school and 5 Churches. I went to see the Barber Surgeons Hall
w^{ch} was within a pretty garden walled in, full of flowers and greens
In potts and in the Borders; its a good neate building of Brick. There I
saw the roome w^{th} a round table in it railed round w^{th} seates or
Benches for y^e Conveniency in their disecting and anatomiseing a body,
and reading Lectures on all parts. There was two bodyes that had been
anatomised, one the bones were fastned w^{th} wires the other had had
the flesh boyled off and so some of y^e Ligeament remained and dryed
w^{th} it, and so the parts were held together by its own Muscles and
sinews that were dryed w^{th} it. Over this was another roome in w^{ch}
was the skin of a man that was taken off after he was dead, and dressed,
and so was stuff’d—the body and Limbs. It Look’d and felt Like a sort of
parchment. In this roome I Could take a view of the whole town, it
standing on high ground and a pretty Lofty building.
Just by is a very good Hospital for 14 widdows of tradesmen of the town,
2 good roomes a piece, a walke under a pyasse w^{th} pillars of
brickwork, as is the whole building: there is a Large ffountaine or
Cunduite of water for their use and an open Green before their house all
walled in, its in y^e major and aldermans disposition, there is 2 or 300
pound a yeare to it, I thinke its 10 pound a piece. There is a very good
fountaine belongs to it, and there is a fine bridge over the Tyne river
w^{th} 9 arches all built on as London bridge is, which Enters you into
Durham, and on this side of y^e Bridge are so many streets and buildings
just Like Southwarke. Its a Little town but all is in the Liberty of y^e
County town of New-Castle and soe Called, but its all in the Diocess of
Durham. Through part of this you do ascend a greate height and steepness
w^{ch} is full of Rocky stony stepps, and afterwards the hill Continues
when out of y^e town till it has set you as high as on the former hill
on the other side the town—w^{ch} I Entred out of Northumberland—and as
that gave a Large prospect of the town and whole Country aboute on that
side, soe this gives as pleasing a sight of it on this side and the
whole river and shipps in the harbour. Thence I proceeded a most
pleasant gravell Road on the Ridge of y^e hill and had the whole Country
in view, w^{ch} seems much on a flatt to this place, tho’ there be a few
Little steep up hills and descents, but the whole Country Looks Like a
fruitfull woody place and seemes to Equal most Countys in England. 7
mile to Chester streete w^{ch} is a Little Market town, and I Rode neare
Lumly Castle w^{ch} gives title and name to the Lord Lumly: the
buildings Looke very Nobly, its in a 4 square tower running up to the
top w^{th} three Round towers at the top between the windows—Lookes
well—its a front the four wayes, its not finely ffurnish’d.
At this Little Market town I pass’d over the River Weire w^{ch} runns to
Durham, w^{ch} is 7 mile farther over a pleasant Road and Country y^t
resembles Black heath, you see the towns and Countrys Round full of
Woods. One sees the Citty of Durham four mile off from a high hill, not
but the Citty stands on a great rise of Ground and is a mile and halfe
in Length. The river runs almost round the town and returns againe, that
Casts the Citty into a tryangular; its not Navigeable nor possible to be
made so because its so full of Rocks and vast stones, makes it difficult
for any such attempt. Durham Citty stands on a great hill, the middle
part much higher than the rest, the Cathedrall and Castle w^{ch} is y^e
pallace w^{th} y^e Colledge and all the houses of the Doctors of the
Churches is altogether built of stone and all Encompass’d w^{th} a wall
full of battlements above the walke, and this is about the middle of y^e
hill w^{ch} is a Round hill, and a steep descent into the rest of the
town, where is the market place w^{ch} is a spacious place, and a very
ffaire town hall on stone Pillars and a very Large Cunduite. From this
all the streets are in a pretty greate descent to y^e river, which
Lookes very pleasant by meanes of its turning and winding to and agen,
and so there are 3 Large Stone Bridges w^{th} severall arches apiece.
The abbey or y^e Cathedrall is very Large, the quire is good but nothing
Extraordinary, some good painting in the Glass of the windows and wood
Carving. There is over y^e alter a painting of a Large Catherine Wheele
which Encompasses the whole window and fills it up. The Bishops seate
has severall steps up, its Called y^e throne, with a Cloth of Gold
Carpet before it. The seate was King Charles the first, of Crimson
damaske. A good organ and a fine Clock in w^{ch} is the signes, w^{th}
Chimes, and finely Carved w^{th} four pirramidy spires on Each Corner, a
much Larger and higher one in the middle well Carv’d and painted. The
ffont is of marble, the top was Carv’d wood very high, and terminates in
a poynt and resembles the picture of y^e Building of Babel—its not
painted. The Cloysters are good. A Chapple Called S^t Marys now used for
to keep their spiritual Courts, and in the vestry I saw severall fine
Embroyder’d Coapes—3 or 4, I saw one above the rest was so Richly
Embroider’d w^{th} the whole Description of Christs nativity, Life,
Death and ascention; this is put on the Deanes shoulders at the
administration of the Lords supper, here is y^e only place that they use
these things in England, and severall more Cerimonyes and Rites retained
from the tymes of popery. There are many papists in the town, popishly
affected, and daily encrease. There was great striveing in the Choice of
the parliament men, w^{ch} I had the trouble of in most of my journeys,
y^e Randan they made in the publick houses, jndeed I happen’d to get
into a quiet good jnn a good accomodation, two Maiden sisters and
brother kept it—at y^e Naggs head.
The Castle w^{ch} is the Bishops pallace stands on a Round hill w^{ch}
has severall green walks round it, w^{th} high bancks to secure them one
above another, and on the top are the towers. About the Middle of the
hill is a broad Grass walk railed in and enters into a Dineing roome.
There are very stately good roomes, parlours, drawing roomes, and a
noble Hall, but the ffurniture was not very ffine the best being taken
down in the absence of my Lord Crew, who is not a Barron of England but
is a great prince as being Bishop of the whole principallity off Durham,
and has a great Royalty and authority, is as an absolute Prince and has
a great Command as well as revenue; his Spirituall is 5 or 6000^{lb} and
his temporalls since his brothers Death makes it much more. He Comes
sometymes hither but for the most part Lives at another Castle w^{ch} is
a noble seate about 12 mile off, which is very well ffurnish’d and
ffinish’d; he is the Governour as it were of the whole province. His
pallace here makes a good appearance w^{th} the severall walks one below
another with rows of trees, three or four descents and y^e wall at the
bottom. Just by the Castle is a place for the assizes, 2 open barrs
Lookes out into what is the space the College and Doctors houses are,
and there is in the Middle a very ffine Large Cunduite, the water
falling into the Cistern from 4 pipes, w^{ch} gives a pleaseing sound
and prospect, it being arch’d with stone, and stone pillars, and Carv’d,
and alsoe a high top arch ending in a ball; its the ffinest of this kind
I have seen and so I must say of the whole Citty of Durham, its the
noblest—Cleane and pleasant buildings, streetes Large, well pitch’d. The
market Crosse is Large, a fflatt Roofe on severall Rows of Pillars of
Stone and here is a good Cundit alsoe of stone. The walks are very
pleasant by the river side. I went by its banck of one end of the town
to the meeteing house w^{ch} stands just by the River, there was a
Company of hearers at Least 300, w^{ch} on the Consideration of its
being under the Dropings of y^e Cathedrall its very well. They have a
very good minister there, but its New-Castle that has the greate
meeteing place and many Descenters; they have two very Eminent men one
of their Name was D^r Gilpin whose book I have read in, but he not being
at home Could not have the advantage of hearing him.
In the Evening I walk’d out at Durham to another part of the town, by
another turn of the river along by its Banck, and the river here would
meete were it not for a Ridge of a hill runs between, it in w^{ch} are
buildings and ascends up a mile in Length, w^{ch} is one of the
Parishes. In walking by this river we Came to S^r Charles Musgroves
House w^{ch} is now old and ruinous but has been good. The Gardens are
flourishing still w^{th} good walks and much ffruite of w^{ch} I tasted;
its a place that is used Like our Spring Gardens for the Company of the
town to walk in the Evening, and its most pleasant by the river, w^{ch}
by means of severall bays or wires which is of Rock, the waters has
greate falls from thence, w^{ch} adds a murmuring sound acceptable to
the people passing. They have good ffish in the river but its full of
rocks; they talk much of makeing it Navigeable but I ffancy the many
Rocks all along in it will render it a Difficult work. I went a mile to
see the spaw waters and to see a salt spring in the Rock in the middle
of y^e river. In halfe a mile I came to a well w^{ch} had a stone Bason
in it and an arch of stone over it; the taste was Like y^e Sweete Spaw
in Yorkshire and the Tunbridge waters.
About halfe a mile farther I Came to a well w^{ch} is Like the Sulpher
Spaw, taste and Looke agreeing thereto, w^{ch} is from brimstone, but
its not quite soe strong for it was a Longer tyme before the silver was
Changed in it. Here I went a very bad and hazardous passage full of
stones Like stepps, the water trilling Down them, and a very narrow
passage by the Bushes and Bancks, but when I was got in there was noe
returning, so on I went to the river w^{ch} was a Large step to goe down
into, and all the river full of Shelves and Rocks.
The Spring is in the Cleft of the Rocks w^{ch} stands up in the river,
and soe springs up, but when much raines falls it washes down soe fast
upon it that weakens the taste. From this place I came back againe a
mile. Durham has about 7 Churches w^{th} the Cathedrall, its a noble
place and the aire so Cleer and healthy that persons Enjoy much health
and pleasure. From thence to Darlington w^{ch} is 14 pretty Long miles
but good way, but by the way I Lost some of my nightCloths and Little
things in a Bundle that the Guide I hired Carry’d. This is a Little
Market town, the Market day was on Munday w^{ch} was the day I passed
through it: it was a great Market of all things, a great quantety of
Cattle of all sorts but mostly Beeves—it seemes once in a fortnight its
much fuller. Two miles from Darlington I Came to the Ground the Hell
Kettles are they talk much of, its in Grounds just by the road where
Cattle were ffeeding, there are 2 pooles or ponds of Water the one
Larger than y^e other; y^e biggest seemed to me not to be the Deepest
nor is it Esteem’d soe deep; there was some sedge or flaggs growing
round that, but y^e fathermost w^{ch} was not soe bigg Looked a Cross
that had noe flaggs or sedge on its bancks but yet it Look’d to me to
Cast a green hew, Roleing waves of the water just in Coullour as the
sea, and as the wind moved the water it very much resembled the sea, but
the water when taken up in y^e hand Look’d White and y^e taste was not
the Least brackish but fresh. My Conception of the Cause of y^e greenish
Coullour was from the greate depth of water, for the reason they Call
them Hell Kettles is that there is noe sounding a bottom, w^{ch} has
been try’d by plumet and Line severall ffathoms down; the water is Cold
and as any other water when took up, it seemes not to Decrease in a tyme
of Drought nor to advance w^{th} great raines, it draines itself
insensibly into y^e ground.
This Leads me the ffarthest way to Richmond it being but 8 mile the
ready Road from Darlington to Richmond, but this way it was 10 miles and
very tedious miles. Three miles off Darlington I passed over Crafton
Bridge which Crosses y^e river Teese which Divides Durham ffrom
Yorkshire, and soe Entred the North Rideing of Yorkshire in which is
that they Call Richmondshire a shire of 30 miles. The way was good but
Long, I went through Lanes and woods an Enclosed Country; I passed by a
house of S^r Mark Melborn on a hill, a Brick building and severall
towers on the top, good gardens and severall rows of trees up to the
house, it standing on a hill, y^e trees Runns along on y^e Ridge of y^e
same—Looks very finely.
Richmondshire has in it 5 waking takes as they Call them, answerable to
that they Call hundreds in other Countys; Each waking takes has market
towns in them and are under a Baliffe Each, which are nominated by the
Earle of Holderness who is the Sole Lord of the whole—its 30 mile in
Extent. Richmond town one cannot see till just upon it, being
Encompass’d w^{th} great high hills: I descended a very steep hill to it
from whence saw the whole town which itself stands on a hill tho’ not so
high as these by it. Its buildings are all stone, y^e streetes are Like
rocks themselves, there is a very Large space for the Markets w^{ch} are
Divided for the ffish market, fflesh market, and Corn; there is a Large
market Crosse, a square space walled in with severall steps up, and its
flatt on the top and of a good height. There is by it a Large Church and
the ruines of a Castle, the pieces of the walls on a hill. I walked
round by the walls, the River running beneath a great descent to it, its
full of stones and Rocks and soe very Easye to Make or keep up their
wires or falls of water, w^{ch} in some places is naturall y^t y^e water
falls over Rocks w^{th} great force w^{ch} is Convenient for Catching
Salmon by speare when they Leap over those Bayes. All rivers are Low and
Dryer in the Summer soe I saw them at the greatest disadvantage being in
some places almost drye and the Rocks and stones appear bare, but by
those high and Large stone bridges I pass’d w^{ch} Lay aCross the Rivers
shewd the Great Depth and breadth they used to be y^e Winter tymes.
There was two good houses in y^e town, one was M^r Darcys the Earle of
Holderness’ brother, the other was M^r Yorkes, both stood then and were
Chosen Parliament men. They had good gardens walled in, all stone, as in
the whole town, though I must say it Looks Like a sad shatter’d town and
fallen much to Decay and Like a Disregarded place. I passed on towards
Burrowbridge and Came not farre from Hornby Castle the Earle of
Holderness, and also Suddber hall 2 mile off Richmond M^r Darcys house;
this Road was much on Lanes w^{ch} were narrow but Exceeding Long, some
3 or 4 mile before you Came to any open place and then I Came to a
Common w^{ch} was as tedious to me, at Least 5 or 6 mile before I Came
to an End of it, then I pass’d through a few Little villages and so I
Came the 19 mile to Burrowbridge in Yorkshire. Here I was the most
sensible of the Long Yorkshire Miles, this North Rideing of that County
is much Longer Miles than the other parts which I had been in before. At
Burrowbridge I pass’d the River Lid or Ouse on a Large stone Bridge:
this River affords very good ffish, salmon and Codffish and plenty of
Crawffish. Here I met w^{th} the Clutter of y^e Chooseing Parliament
men. Thence I went for Knarsebrough 5 mile more; this dayes journey was
a Long 24 miles, jndeed y^e wayes were very good and drye being y^e
midst of summer. Here I Came to my old Landlady Mason where I Lay the
yeare before to Drink the spaw, and from thence I went to Harragate over
Knarsbrough fforest to Leeds 12 mile, and I went by Harwood Castle—the
ruined walls some remaines. It was much in Lanes and uphills and Down
hills, some Little part was open Common; on the Hill that Leads down to
the town gives a pleaseing prospect of it. Leeds is a Large town,
severall Large streetes, Cleane and well pitch’d and good houses all
built of stone. Some have good Gardens and Steps up to their houses and
walls before them. This is Esteemed the Wealthyest town of its bigness
in the Country its manufacture is y^e woollen Cloth—the Yorkshire Cloth
in w^{ch} they are all Employ’d and are Esteemed very Rich and very
proud. They have provision soe plentiful y^t they may Live w^{th} very
Little Expense and get much variety; here if one Calls for a tankard of
Ale w^{ch} is allwayes a groate its the only dear thing all over
Yorkshire, their ale is very strong, but for paying this Groat for
yo^{ur} ale you may have a slice of meate Either hott or Cold according
to the tyme of day you Call, or Else butter and Cheese Gratis into the
bargaine; this was a Generall Custom in most parts of Yorkshire but now
they have almost Changed it, and tho’ they still retaine the great price
for the ale, yet Make strangers pay for their meate, and at some places
at great rates, notwithstanding how Cheape they have all their
provision. There is still this Custome on a Market day at Leeds, the
sign of ye bush just by the Bridge, any body y^t will goe and Call for
one tanchard of ale and a pinte of wine and pay for these only shall be
set to a table to Eate w^{th} 2 or 3 dishes of good meate and a dish of
sweetmeates after. Had I known this and y^e Day w^{ch} was their Market
I would have Come then but I happened to Come a day after y^e market,
however I did only pay for 3 tankards of ale and w^t I Eate, and my
servants was gratis. This town is full of discenters, there are 2 Large
meeting places, here is also a good schoole for young Gentlewomen; the
streetes are very broad, the Market Large. Thence I went to Eland 12
long mile more pretty much steep, up hills and down the same. I crossed
over a River at Leeds on a Large stone bridge; y^e Country is much on
Enclosures, good ground.
I goe by quarreys of stone and pitts of Coales w^{ch} are both very
good, soe that for fewell and building as well as good grounds for
feeding Cattle and for Corne they are so well provided that together
with their Industry they must needs be very Rich. All the hills about
Eland is full of jnclosures and Coverts of wood y^t Looks very pleasant.
This town gives title to y^e Marquis Hallifax son, as does Hallifax to
y^e Marquis. This Lyes but 5 or 6 mile hence, its a stony town and the
roads to it soe stony and difficult y^t I was Discouraged in going, the
town now being almost ruined and Come to Decay, and y^e Engine that that
town was famous for to behead their Criminalls at one stroake w^{th} a
pully this was destroyed since their Charter or Liberty was Lost or
taken from them, because most barbarously and rigourously acted Even
w^{th} an absolute power w^{ch} they had of all y^e town; on those
Informations I resolved not to goe to that ragged town tho’ there are
many good people and a Large meeteing.
From Eland I went to y^e Blackstone Edge 8 mile, when I had gone 3 of
the miles I Came to a great Precipice or vast descent of a hill as full
of stones as if paved and Exceedingly steep; I take it to be much
steeper than Blackstone Edge tho’ not soe long. Y^e End of this steep
was a Little village all stony alsoe. These parts have some resemblance
to Darbyshire only here are more woody places and jnclosures. Then I
Came to Blackstone Edge noted all over England for a dismal high
precipice and steep in the ascent and descent on Either End; its a very
moorish ground all about and Even just at the top, tho’ so high, that
you travel on a Causey w^{ch} is very troublesome as its a moist ground
soe as is usual on these high hills; they stagnate the aire and hold
mist and raines almost perpetually. As I ascended, y^e Morning was
pretty faire, but a sort of mist met me and small raine just as I
attained y^e top, w^{ch} made me feare a wet day and y^t the aire would
have been so thick to have quite Lost me y^e sight of y^e Country, but
when I attained y^e top where is a great heap raised up w^{ch} parts
Yorkshire—and there I entred Lancashire—the mist began to Lessen, and as
I descended on this side y^e ffog more and more went off and a Little
raine fell tho’ at a Little distance in our view, the sun shone on y^e
vale w^{ch} Indeed is of a Large Extent here, and y^e advantage of soe
high a hill w^{ch} is at Least 2 mile up discovers the grounds beneath
as a fruitfull valley full of jnclosures and Cut hedges and trees. That
w^{ch} adds to the formidableness of Blackstone Edge is that on y^e one
hand you have a vast precipice almost the whole way both as one ascends
and descends, and in some places y^e precipice is on Either hand. This
hill took me up Much tyme to gaine the top and alsoe to descend it and
put me in mind of the Description of y^e Alpes in Italy, where the
Clouds drive all about and as it were below them, w^{ch} descends Lower
into Mists, then into raines and soe tho’ on the top it hold snow and
haile falling on the passengers, w^{ch} at Length the Lower they go
Comes into raine and so into sun-shine—at the foote of those valleys,
fruitfull, y^e sunshine and singing of birds. This was y^e accō My
father gave of those Alps when he passed them and I Could not but think
this Carryed some resemblance tho’ in Little, yet a proportion to that.
From y^e foot of this Blackstone I went to Rochdale 4 mile, a pretty
neate town built all of stone; here I went to an acquaintances house M^r
Taylor and was Civilly Entertained. Here is a good Large Meeteing place
well filled; these parts Religion does better flourish than in places
where they have better advantages. Here I observ’d the Grounds were all
Enclosed with Quicksetts Cut smoothe and as Even on fine Green Bancks,
and as well kept as for a Garden, and so most of my way to Manchester I
Rode between such hedges, its a thing remarked by most their great
Curiosity in this kind.
Manchester Lookes exceedingly well at the Entrance,—very substantiall
buildings, the houses are not very Lofty but mostly of Brick and stone,
the old houses are timber work; there is a very Large Church all stone
and stands high soe that walking round the Churchyard you see the whole
town. There is good Carving in wood in the Quire of y^e Church and
severall Little Chappells where in are some Little Monuments; there is
one that was y^e founder of y^e Colledge and Library where hangs his
pictures, for just by the Church is the Colledge w^{ch} is a pretty
neate building w^{th} a Large space for y^e boys to play in, and a good
Garden walled in; there are 60 blew Coate boys in it, I saw their
appartments and was in the Cellars and Dranke of their beer w^{ch} was
very good; I alsoe saw y^e Kitchen and saw their bread Cutting for their
supper and their piggins for their beer. There is a Cloyster round a
Court, in it is a Large roome for y^e judges to Eate in, and also for
y^e roomes for heareing and dispatching their buissness, there is a
Large Library—2 Long walls full of books on Each side,—there is alsoe
y^e globes at y^e End and Maps, there is alsoe a Long whispering
trumpet, and there I saw y^e skinn of y^e Rattle Snake 6 ffoote Long
w^{th} many other Curiositys, their anatomy of a man wired together, a
jaw of a shark; there was a very ffine Clock and weather glass. Out of
y^e Library there are Leads on w^{ch} one has the sight of y^e town
w^{ch} is Large, as alsoe y^e other town that Lyes below it Called
Salfor and is Divided from this by the river Ouall over w^{ch} is a
stone bridge w^{th} many arches. Salfor has only a Little Chappell of
Ease and is belonging to y^e Parish of Manchester.
There is another river Called the Shark w^{ch} runs into y^e Uval. The
market place is Large, it takes up two streetes Length when the Market
is kept for their Linnen Cloth, Cottentickings w^{th} is the manufacture
of y^e town. Here is a very fine Schoole for young Gentlewomen as good
as any in London, and musick and danceing and things are very plenty
here—this is a thriveing place. Hence I went a very pleasant roade Much
on y^e downs mostly Campion ground, some few Enclosures, I went by Dunum
the Earle of Warringtons house w^{ch} stands in a very fine parcke, it
stands Low but appeared very well to sight, its old fashioned building
w^{ch} appeares more in y^e Inside, and the furniture old, but good
gardens walled in. I also passed by severall Gentlemens seates, one was
M^r Cholmonlys, another M^r Listers, surrounded w^{th} good Walks and
shady trees in rows, and severall Large pooles of water some Containeing
severall acres. I passed over two or three stone bridges Cross Little
rivers, so to Norwitch w^{ch} is 14 mile. I Entred Cheshire 3 mile
before I Came to y^e town, its not very Large, its full of Salt works
the brine pitts being all here about, and so they make all things
Convenient to follow y^e makeing the salt so y^t y^e town is full of
smoak from y^e salterns on all sides. They have within these few yeares
found in their brine pitts a hard Rocky salt that Lookes Cleer Like
Suger Candy and its taste shews it to be salt, they Call this Rock salt,
it will make very good brine w^{th} fresh water to use quickly. This
they Carry to the water side into Wales and by those Rivers that are
flow’d w^{th} y^e tyde, and soe they boile these pieces of Rock in some
of the salt water when y^e tyde’s in, w^{ch} produces as strong and good
salt as the others. Thence I went to Sandy head 3 mile farther. There
was 12 salterns together at Norwitch—all y^e witches are places they
make salt in—Nantwitch and Droctwitch they make salt, for at Each place
they have the salt hills where the brine pits springs: this is not farre
from y^e place whence they digg the mill stones.
From Sandy Lane head where I baited, to Whit Church is 16 long miles
over a Long heath for 4 or 5 mile, then to Bestonwood and Came by Beston
Castle on a very high hill, y^e walls remaineing round it, w^{ch} I Left
a Little on my Right hand just at y^e foote of y^e hill, and so I
Crossed y^e great Road w^{ch} Comes from Nantwitch to Chester being then
just y^e midd way to Either, being 7 mile to Each. There I think I may
say was y^e only tyme I had reason to suspect I was Engaged w^{th} some
highway men. 2 fellows all on a suddain from y^e wood fell into y^e
Road, they Look’d truss’d up w^{th} great Coates and as it were bundles
about them w^{ch} I believe was pistolls, but they dogg’d me one before
y^e other behind and would often Look back to Each other, and frequently
justle my horse out of y^e way to get between one of my servants horses
and mine, and when they first Came up to us did disown their knowledge
of y^e way and would often stay a little behind and talke together, then
Come up againe, but the providence of God so order’d it as there was men
at work in y^e fields haymakeing, and it being market day at WhitChurch,
as I drew neer to y^t in 3 or 4 mile was Continually met w^{th} some of
y^e market people, so they at Last Called Each other off and soe Left us
and turned back; but as they Rode w^{th} us 3 or 4 miles at Last they
described the places we should Come by, and a high pillar finely painted
in y^e Road about 3 mile off of Whitchurch (w^{ch} accordingly we saw as
we pass’d on) w^{ch} shew’d them noe strangers to y^e Road as they at
first pretended. I passed over a Little brooke a mile before I Came to
WhitChurch w^{ch} Entred me into Shropshire. This is a Large market
town, here are two very fine gardens, one belongs to an apothecary, full
of all fruites and greens; y^e other was at y^e Crown jnn where I staid,
it was exceeding neate w^{th} oring and Lemmon trees, Mirtle, striped
and gilded hollytrees, box and ffilleroy finely Cut, and ffirrs and
merumsuratum w^{ch} makes the fine snuff, and fine flowers all things
almost in a little tract of Garden Ground. From thence its 14 mile to
Shrewsbury and pretty Level way. Ye miles were long and y^e wind blew
very Cold, I went on a Causey 2 or 3 miles to y^e town, so y^t in y^e
winter the way is bad and deep but on the Causey.
Y^e town stands Low, y^e spires of 2 of y^e Churches stand high and
appear Eminent above y^e town, there is y^e remaines of a Castle, y^e
walls and battlements and some towers w^{ch} I walked round, from whence
had y^e whole view of y^e town w^{ch} is walled round w^{th} battlements
and walks round, some of which I went on. Its here the fine river Severn
Encompasses y^e greatest part of y^e town and twines and twists its self
about, its not very broad here but its very deep and is Esteemed y^e
finest river in England to Carry such a depth of water for 80 or more
miles together Ere it runns into y^e sea w^{ch} is at Bristol. This
Comes out of Wales, Ross and Monmouthshire, there it turns about and
Comes to y^e town. On Each side there are 3 bridges over it, in y^e town
one of them y^t I walked over had some few houses built on it, as London
bridge, at one End of it. Its pleasant to walk by y^e river; there is
just by it the Councill house an old building. Here are three free
schooles together, built of free stone, 3 Large roomes to teach the
Children, w^{th} severall masters. Y^e first has 150£ a year y^e second
100 y^e third 50^£ a year and teach Children from reading English till
fit for y^e University, and its free for Children not only of y^e town
but for all over England if they Exceed not y^e numbers. Here is a very
fine Market Cross of stone Carv’d, in another place there is an
Exchequer or hall for y^e towns affaires, there is alsoe a hall for y^e
Welsh manufacture. There is a water house w^{ch} supplys y^e town
through pipes w^{th} water, but its drawn up w^{th} horses and it seemes
not to be a good and Easye way, so they jntend to make it with a water
Engine in the town. There are many good houses but mostly old buildings,
timber; there is some remaines of a great abbey and just by it y^e great
Church, but nothing fine or worth notice save y^e abbey Gardens w^{th}
gravell walks set full of all sorts of greens—orange and Lemmon trees: I
had a paper of their flowers—were very fine,—there was alsoe ffirrs,
myrtles and hollys of all sorts and a green house full of all sorts of
Curiosityes of flowers and greens—there was y^e aloes plant. Out of this
went another Garden much Larger w^{th} severall fine grass walks kept
Exactly Cut and roled for Company to walke in. Every Wednesday most of
y^e town y^e Ladyes and Gentlemen walk there as in S^t James’ parke, and
there are abundance of people of Quality Lives in Shrewsbury, more than
in any town Except Nottingham; its true there are noe fine houses but
there are many Large old houses that are Convenient and stately, and its
a pleasant town to Live in and great plenty w^{ch} makes it Cheap
Living. This is very near bordering on Wales and was reckon’d formerly
one of y^e Welsh County’s as was Herifordshire. Here is a very good
schoole for young Gentlewomen for Learning work and behaviour and
musick.
From Shrewsbury I went through the great ffaire w^{ch} was just kept
that day there, full of all sorts of things and all the roade for 10
mile at Least I met y^e people and Commoditys going to the ffaire. 2
mile thence I passed over the River Cern on a Large stone bridge, this
is deep and joyns the Severn and soe I Rode by the great hill Called the
Reeke noted for the highest piece of ground in England, but it must be
by those that only Live in the heart of y^e Kingdom and about London,
for there are much higher hills in the north and West and alsoe not 40
mile distant from it; Manborn hills seems vastly higher. This hill
stands just by itself a round hill and does raise its head much above
y^e hills neare it, and on the one side does Looke a great steepe down,
but still my thoughts of the ffells in Cumberland and Westmoreland are
soe farr beyond it in height that this would not be mentioned there; it
is seen 20 mile off and soe may many other hills, but when I Rode just
under it I was full Convinc’d its height was not in Compẽtion w^{th}
those in other parts that I have seen.
There are great hills all about w^{ch} I pass’d over full of Coale
pitts. Here I Came into y^e Whatling Streete w^{ch} is one of y^e great
roads of England w^{ch} divided y^e Land into so many Kingdoms under y^e
Saxons. The roads are pretty good but y^e miles are Long, from
Shrewsbury to y^e Reeke is 9 mile, from thence to S^r Thomas Patsells
house 10 mile more; here I went to see his Gardens w^{ch} are talk’d off
as y^e finest and best kept, y^e house is old and Low, if y^e Gentleman
had Lived he Did design a new house, its now his sons who is an Infant.
Before you Come to y^e house for a quarter of a mile you Ride between
fine Cut hedges, and y^e nearer y^e approach the finer still, they are
very high and Cut Smoothe and Even just Like y^e hedges at Astrop
waters, and of Each side beyond are woods, some regular Rows, some in
its native Rudeness, w^{th} ponds beyond in grounds beneath it. Y^e End
of this walke you Enter a Large gate of open Iron grates, w^{th} as many
more jron grates on Each side as the Breadth of y^e gate, opposite to
this is just another that opens into those grounds I first mention’d.
There is a Large pitched Court w^{th} some open jron gates and grates at
Each End, y^t gives the visto quite a Cross through to other Rows of
trees w^{ch} runs up all about y^e severall avenues.
In this Court stands two Dyals between w^{ch} is an open gate and
pallasadoes, the whole breadth of y^e front of this jron work w^{ch}
Leads to the jnner Court, and on y^e other side just in front, is
another Large gate Carv’d Iron w^{th} pillars brick and stone and flower
potts; and on Each side to take the whole Breadth of y^e house to w^{ch}
it faces and soe give the sight of the garden is open pallisadoes, and a
Little beyond are two more such open Pallisadoes that are Corner wayes,
and discovers the Groves whose walks Looks Every way, so y^t to stand in
this outward Court you May see the house, and Court full of statues in
Grass plotts, w^{th} a broad pav’d walke to the house. In y^e middle on
y^e one side are flower gardens and y^e parke, y^e other side other
grounds w^{th} rows of trees and by it very handsome stables and Coach
houses, and then in the ffront this Large opening to this garden where
is a ffountaine all wayes playing very high, the water, the Gravel
walks, and fine flowers and greens of all sorts in potts and on the
borders. This gate I mention’d had brick pillars w^{th} stone heads on
w^{ch} stood a turky Cock on each Cut in stone and painted proper. Y^e
grove I mention’d is the finest I Ever saw, there are six walks thro’ it
and just in the Middle you Look twelve wayes w^{ch} Discovers as Many
severall prospects, Either to y^e house or Entrance or fountaines or
Gardens or ffields. The Grove itself is peculiar being Composed of all
sorts of greens that hold their verdure and beauty all the yeare, and
flourishes most in y^e winter season when all other Garden beautys
fades, of ffirrs, both silver, Scots, Noroway, Cyprus, Yew, Bays &c; the
severall squares being set full of these Like a Maze; they are Compassed
round Each square w^{th} a hedge of Lawrell about a y^d high Cut Exactly
smooth and Even, there are also box trees in the middle. There are two
other Large Gardens w^{th} Gravell walkes, and grass plotts full of
stone statues, the stone is taken out of y^e quarry’s about this
Country, w^{ch} is not a very firme stone and so the Weather Cracks
them.
In one of these Gardens just the side of y^e house into w^{ch} it opens
w^{th} glass doors and just over against it is a Large Avery of birds
w^{th} branches of trees stuck into the Ground; by it is a Little Summer
house neately painted, beyond this is another Garden w^{th} a broad
Gravel walke quite round. In the middle is a Long as well as Large
ffountaine or pond w^{ch} is Called a sheete of water, at y^e four
Corners are seates shelter’d behind and on y^e top and sides w^{th}
boards painted, on w^{ch} you sit secured from the weather, and Looks on
the water w^{ch} has 348 Lead pipes at y^e brims of it w^{ch} takes in
the sides and End and w^{th} the turning a sluce they streame at once
into the fountaine w^{ch} Looks well and makes a pleaseing sound. If
those pipes were but turned in a bow it would Cast the water in an arch
and so would augment the Beauty of y^e prospect. There are 2 Large
Images stands in the Midst y^t Cast out water and 4 sea horses all
Casting out water. In the other Gardens there were Little figures w^{ch}
bedewed the borders w^{th} their showers.
This Large pond I spoke of before is very deep and good ffish Encreasing
in it. There is another great pond in a ground beyond, w^{ch} Lyes to
view thro’ those green pallasadoes and is stored w^{th} much good ffish.
Thence I went to Aubery 2 miles, a Little Market town, thence to
Pauckeridge and passed through some parcks w^{ch} belongs to some
Gentlemens seate. I went by one M^r Peirpoynts, and S^r Walter Rochlys
house, w^{ch} stands on a hill in a thicket of trees, and soe Came
againe to the Whatling-street way and soe over Kankewood to Woolsly—in
all 14 mile ffarther. From Woolsly to Haywood parke 2 mile, and home
againe 2 mile, from Woolsley to Kanktown 6 mile, thence to
Woolverhampton 6 mile. I went more in sight of S^r Walter Rochly w^{ch}
stands very finely on a hill and woods by it—Lookes very stately. These
miles are very Long thro’ Lanes. I passed by a fine house Prestwitch M^r
Philip Ffolies, a pretty seate in a parke, a mile beyond there is
another house of y^e same Gentlemans. Here we had y^e Inconveniency of
meeteing the Sherriffs of Staffordshire Just going to provide for y^e
Reception of y^e Judges and officers of y^e Assizes, whose Coaches and
Retinue Meeteing our Company w^{ch} was encreased w^{th} Cosen Ffiennes’
Coach and horsemen, w^{ch} made us difficult to pass Each other in the
hollow wayes and Lanes.
Thence to the Seven Starres where we baited, thence 2 miles ffarther we
Entred out of Staffordshire into Worcestershire to Broad water, a place
where are severall ffullers and Dyers mills.
Thence on y^e Right hand are fforging mills for jron works w^{ch} belong
to M^r Tho: Ffolie, there is a Rocky hill in w^{ch} is a Roome Cut out
in the Rocks.
On y^e Left hand you goe 7 mile to Ambusly, a very sad heavy way all
sand, you goe just at Kederminster town End w^{ch} is a Large town much
Employ’d about y^e worstead trade, spinning and weaving. We also Rode by
S^r John Packingtons house on the Left hand on the hill just by
Droitwitch where are the 3 salt springs, divided by a ffresh spring that
runs by it; of this salt water they boyle much salt that turns to good
amount. All y^e way from the Seven Starrs where we baited to Ambusly y^e
Road was full of y^e Electers of y^e Parliament men Coming from the
Choice of y^e Knights of the Shire, w^{ch} spake as they were affected,
some for one some for another, and some were Larger in their judgments
than others, telling their reason much according to the good Liquors
operation, and of these people all the publick houses were filled that
it was a hard Matter to get Lodging or Entertainm^t.
We entered Worcester town next day just as y^e Cerimony of the Election
was performing, and soe they Declared it in favour of M^r Welsh and S^r
John Packington. 4 mile more to this town—from broad water in all is 11
mile. Worcester town w^{ch} is washed by the river Severn is a Large
Citty—12 Churches, the streetes most of them broad, the buildings some
of them are very good and Lofty, its Encompass’d w^{th} a wall w^{ch}
has 4 gates that are very strong. The Market place is Large, there is a
Guildhall besides the Market house w^{ch} stands on pillars of stone.
The Cathedrall stands in a Large yard, pitch’d, its a Lofty Magnificent
building, the Quire has good Wood Carv’d and a pretty organ, there is
one tombstone stands in the Middle of y^e quire by the railes on which
Lyes the Effigies of King John, the Left side of alter is prince Arthurs
tomb of plaine Marble in a ffine Chappell w^{ch} is made all of stone
ffinely Carv’d, both the Inside and the outside is very Curiously Carv’d
in all sorts of works and Arms, beasts and flowers, under it Lyes the
statues of severall Bishops, beyond this are two tombstones w^{th} y^e
ffigure of y^e body in their proper dress, of 2 Saxon Bishops on y^e
pavement.
The painting of y^e Windows are good and they are pretty Large and Lofty
tho’ Nothing Comparable to the Cathedrall at york. The tower is high and
about the Middle of it you may walke round y^e Inside and Look down into
the body of y^e Church just as it is in york. Just against y^e pulpit in
y^e body of the Church is a Little organ to set the Psalme. Y^e ffont is
all of white marble and a Carv’d Cover of wood.
From Worcester we pass’d a Large stone bridge over the Severn on w^{ch}
were many Barges that were tow’d up by strength of men 6 or 8 at a tyme.
The water just by the town Encompasses a Little piece of Ground full of
Willows and so makes it an jsland, part of w^{ch} turns Mills. Thence I
went 4 mile where I Cross y^e River Thames on a stone Bridge, this runs
to Whitborne and is a very Rapid Streame Especially after raines, w^{ch}
Just before we begun our Journey had fallen and made the roads, w^{ch}
are all Lanes full of stones and up hills and down, so steep that w^{th}
y^e raines y^e waters stood or Else ran down y^e hills, w^{ch} made it
Exceeding bad for travelling. When we had gone 7 mile, at a Little
Parish, you Enter out of Worcester into Herriffordshire and soe 7 mile
ffarther to Stretton Grandsorm and new house, my Cos’n Fiennes’s. This
is the worst way I ever went in Worcester or Herriffordshire, its
allwayes a deep sand and soe in the winter and w^{th} muck is bad way,
but this being in August it was strange and being so stony made it more
Difficult to travell. From thence I went to Stoake 4 miles, where I saw
M^r Folies new house w^{ch} was building and will be very ffine when
Compleated. There is to be 3 flat ffronts to y^e Gardens sides; the
Right Wing of y^e house is the severall appartments for the ffamily, 2
drawing roomes and bed Chambers and Closets opening both on a terrass of
free stone pavements, Each End and the middle there is stone stepps goes
down on Each side, w^{th} half paces to the garden w^{ch} is by more
stepps descending one below another. The other wing is to y^e other
Garden and are to be Roomes of State w^{ch} Lookes towards Herrifford
town. this is to be Coupled together w^{th} a Large Hall w^{ch} Composes
the ffront and is of stone work, the rest is brick only Coyn’d w^{th}
stone and y^e windows stone, and is in forme of a halfe moone Each side
w^{th} arches to the several offices and stables. To this ffront w^{ch}
is to be the Entrance Large opening Iron spike gates w^{ch} Lookes into
their Grounds and Meddowes below it, of a Great Length w^{th} Rows of
trees to y^e river. The Roofe is Cover’d w^{th} slatt w^{ch} shines and
very much represents Lead, its adorn’d round y^e Edges w^{th} stone
ffigures and flower potts. There is a noble parck and woods behind—it
will be very ffine when ffinished, now I saw it only in the outside
shell and platt form. thence I returned to Newhouse 4 mile. Thence I
went to Canaan Ffroom a mile and one mile back w^{ch} was 2 mile more,
then to Stretton four tymes and back w^{ch} was 8 mile, then from
Newhouse to Aldbery 5 miles, thence to Marlow 3 mile and there Entred
Gloucestershire. They are pretty long miles and in the winter deep way,
though now it was pretty good travelling its 8 mile beyond to
Glocestertown tho’ in most places near London this would be reckon’d 20
miles; you may see the town 4 miles off. Glocester town Lyes all along
on the bancks of y^e Severn and soe Look’d Like a very huge place, being
stretch’d out in Length, its a Low Moist place therefore one must travel
on Causeys which are here in good repaire. I pass’d over a Bridge where
two armes of the river meetes where y^e tyde is very high and rowles in
the sand in many places and Causes those Whirles or Hurricanes that will
Come on storms w^{th} great jmpetuosity.
Thence I proceeded over another Bridge into y^e town whose streetes are
very well pitch’d, Large and Cleane. There is a faire Market place and
Hall for y^e assizes w^{ch} happened just as we Came there, soe had y^e
worst Entertainem^t and noe accomodation but in a private house. Things
ought not to be Deare here, but Strangers are allwayes imposed on and at
such a publick tyme alsoe they make their advantages. Here is a very
Large good Key on the river, they are supply’d w^{th} Coales by y^e
shipps and Barges w^{ch} makes it plentifull; they Carry it on sledges
thro’ y^e town—its the great Warwickshire Coale I saw unloading. Here
they follow knitting stockings, gloves wauscoates and peticoates and
sleeves all of Cotten, and others spinn the Cottens. The Cathedrall or
minster is Large, Lofty and very neate, the Quire pretty. At y^e
Entrance there is a seate over head for y^e Bishop to sit in to hear the
sermon preached in y^e body of y^e Church, and therefore the organ is in
the Quire on one side w^{ch} used to be at y^e Entrance. There was a
tomb stone in y^e middle w^{th} a statue of Duke Roberts, second son to
William the Conquerours son, w^{th} his Legs across as is the manner of
all those that went to the holy warre; this is painted and resembles
marble tho’ it is but wood and soe Light as by one ffinger you may move
it up, there is an jron Grate over it. At y^e alter the painting is soe
ffine that y^e tapistry and pillars and ffigure of Moses and Aaron soe
much to the Life you would at Least think it Carv’d. There are 12
Chappells all stone finely Carv’d on y^e walls and rooffs, the windows
are pretty Large and high w^{th} very good painting, there is a Large
window just over y^e Alter but between it and y^e alter is a hollow
walled in on each side w^{ch} is a Whispering place; speake never so Low
just in the Wall at one End the person at y^e other End shall heare it
plaine tho’ those w^{ch} stand by you shall not heare you speake—its y^e
Wall Carrys y^e voyce. This seems not quite soe wonderfull as I have
heard, for y^e Large roome in Mountague house soe remarkable for fine
painting I have been in it, and when y^e Doores are shutt its so well
suited in y^e Walls you Cannot tell where to find the Doore if a
stranger, and its a Large roome Every way. I saw a Lady stand at one
Corner and turn herself to the wall and whisper’d, y^e voice Came very
Cleer and plaine to y^e Company that stood at y^e Crosse Corner y^e
roome soe y^t it Could not be Carry’d by y^e side wall, it must be the
arch overhead w^{ch} was a great height.—But to return to y^e Church,
the tower was 203 stepps, the Large bell I stood upright in but it was
not so bigg as y^e great Tom of Lincoln, this bell at Glocester is
raised by ten and rung by 6 men. On the tower Leads you have a prospect
of y^e whole town, gardens and buildings and grounds beyond and y^e
river Severn in its twistings and windings. Here are y^e fine Lamprys
taken in great quantetys in their season, of w^{ch} they make pyes and
potts and Convey them to London or Else where, such a present being fitt
for a king; this and y^e Charr fish are Equally rare and valuable. Here
are very good Cloysters finely adorn’d with ffretwork, here is the
Colledge and Library but not stored w^{th} many books. I think this was
all the remarkable in Glocester. From thence I went in Company all this
while w^{th} my Cos’n Ffilmer and family. We Came to Nymphsffield after
having ascended a very steep narrow and stony hill, 10 mile to
Nympsfield all bad way, but the 20 mile afterwards made up for its
badness, for these were Exceeding good wayes. 2 mile to Cold harbour
thence 15 Landsdon—Long, but bowling green way. Here I passed by
Babington, the Duke of Beaufforts house stands in a Parke on an advanc’d
Ground w^{th} rows of trees on all sides w^{ch} runns a good Length, and
you may stand on y^e Leads and Look 12 wayes down to y^e parishes and
Grounds beyond all thro Glides or visto of trees. The Gardens are very
fine and water works. On Landsdon hill Summersetshire begins w^{ch} is a
very pleasant hill for to Ride on for aire and prospect; I went 3 mile
over it w^{ch} Leads to y^e Bath down a vast steep descent of a stony
narrow way as is all y^e wayes down into y^e town. The Bath is a pretty
place full of good houses all for y^e accomodation of the Company that
resort thither to Drink or Bathe in the summer. The streetes are faire
and well pitch’d, they Carry most things on sledges, and y^e Company all
y^e morning y^e Chaires of Bayes to Carry them to the Bath—soe they have
the Chaire or Sedan to Carry them in visits. There is a very fine hall
w^{ch} is set on stone pillars w^{ch} they use for y^e balls and
dancing. This is the only new thing since I was at y^e Bath before,
Except the fine adornements on y^e Cross in the Cross bath, fine Carving
of stone w^{th} the English arms and Saints and Cupids, according to the
phaneze and Religion of King James the Seconds Queen Mary of Modina, as
part of her thanks and acknowledgments to y^e saints or Virgin Mary for
the Welsh Prince she Imposed on us. From the Bath I went westward to
Bristol over Landsdown 10 mile, and passed thro’ Kingswood and was met
w^{th} a great many horses passing and returning Loaden w^{th} Coales
Dug just thereabout; they give 12 pence a horse Load w^{ch} Carrys two
Bushells, it makes very good ffires, this is y^e Cakeing Coale. Bristol
Lyes Low in a bottom the Greatest part of the town, tho’ one End of it
you have a pretty rise of ground.
There are 19 Parish Churches beside the Cathedrall, w^{ch} has nothing
fine or Curious in it. The Buildings of y^e town are pretty high, most
of timber work, the streetes are narrow and something Darkish because
the roomes on y^e upper storys are more jutting out, soe Contracts y^e
streete and the Light. The Suburbs are better buildings and more
spacious streetes. There are at one place as you Enter the town 2
almshouses, 6 men and 6 women a piece at Each. There is alsoe at another
part of y^e town a Noble almshouse more Like a Gentlemans house, y^t is
all of stone work, a handsome Court w^{th} gates and Pallisadoes before
four grass plotts divided by paved walks and a walk round y^e same. The
one side is for y^e women the other for y^e men, the middle building is
2 Kitchins for Either and a middle roome in Common for washing and
brewing, over all is a Chappell. They have Gardens behind it w^{th} all
things Convenient. They have their Coales and 3 shillings p^r weeke
allowed to Each to maintain them, this is for decayed tradesmen and
wives that have Lived well; its set up and allowed to by M^r Coleson a
merch^t in London. This town is a very great tradeing Citty as most In
England, and is Esteemed the Largest next London. The river Aven y^t is
flowed up by the sea into y^e Severn and soe up the Aven to the town,
Beares shipps and Barges up to the Key, where I saw y^e harbour was full
of shipps carrying Coales and all sorts of Commodityes to other parts.
The bridge is built over w^{th} houses just as London bridge is, but its
not so bigg or Long—there are 4 arches here. They have Little boates
w^{ch} are Call’d Wherryes such as we use on the Thames, soe they use
them here to Convey persons from place to place, and in many places
there are signes to many houses that are not Publick houses just as it
is in London, the streetes are well pitch’d, and preserved by their
useing sleds to Carry all things about. There is a very faire market
place and an Exchange set on stone Pillars. In another place there is a
very high and magnificent Cross built all of y^e stone or sort of Marble
of y^e Country, its in the manner of Coventry Cross a Piramedy fform
running up of a great height, w^{th} severall divisions in nitches where
is King Johns Effigy and severall other, adorned w^{th} armes and
figures of Beasts and birds and flowers. Great part of it Gilt and
painted and soe terminates in a spire on y^e top, the Lower part is
white Like Marble. Just by the water side is a Long rope yard w^{ch} is
Encompass’d w^{th} trees on Either side w^{ch} are Lofty and shady,
therefore its made Choice of for y^e Company of y^e town to take y^e
Diversion of walking in the Evening. This Compasses round a Large space
of ground w^{ch} is Called y^e marsh—a green ground. There was noe
remaines of the Castle. There are 12 gates to y^e Citty, there is a very
Large Conduit by y^e Key finely Carv’d, all stone, this Conveys the
water about y^e town but all y^e water has a Brackish taste. There is
one Church w^{ch} is an Entire worke all of stone, noe timbers but ye
Rafters and beames belonging to y^e Roofe and y^e seates they sit in.
Y^e Leads are very high and Large and very neate kept, the tower 15
stepps upon w^{ch} the whole Citty is discover’d, w^{ch} by reason of
the good gardens and grounds within its walls is a very Large tract of
ground in y^e whole. There you see the Colledge green in w^{ch} stands
the Cathedrall and y^e Doctors houses, w^{ch} are not very fine, built
of stone. There are some few monuments in this Church w^{th} good
Carvings of stone round y^e tombs and some Effigies, there are 8 bells
in this Church, there is 2 men goes to y^e ringing y^e biggest bell.
From thence I went 2 miles to y^e hott spring of water w^{ch} Lookes
Exceeding Cleer and is as warm as new milk and much of that sweetness.
This is just by S^t Vincents Rocks y^t are Great Clifts w^{ch} seeme as
bounds to y^e river Aven, this Channell was hewn out of those Rocks.
They Digg y^e Bristol Diamonds w^{ch} Look very Bright and sparkling and
in their native Rudeness have a great Lustre and are pointed and Like
y^e Diamond Cutting; I had a piece just as it Came out of y^e Rock
w^{th} y^e Rock on y^e back side and it appeared to me as a Cluster of
Diamonds polish’d and jrregularly Cut. Some of these are hard and will
Endure the Cutting and pollishing by art and soe they make rings and
Earings of them, the harder the stone is more valuable, w^{ch}
differences y^e true Diamond that will bear the fire or y^e greatest
force, and Cannot be divided nor Cut but by some of itself, diamond dust
being y^e only way they Can Cut diamonds that itself is Capable of
Impressing Carracters on Glass. Here I fferry’d over the Avon that Comes
up to y^e town w^{th} a Great tyde in two parts; about 6 mile off it
joyns y^e Severn w^{ch} now begins to swell into a vast river of 7 mile
over before it Enters the sea. Then I went to Aston a mile from y^e
water side thro’ a fine park, an old Large house, and thence I passed
over Large downs and saw 2 other good houses built of stone, w^{th}
towers on y^e top, and severall Rows of trees Leading to them which made
them appear very fine. Soe to Oakey Hole w^{ch} from y^e water side
where I ferry’d is Esteemed but 15 long mile, its y^e same Distance from
Bristole but I would not goe back to y^e town, but twere better I had,
for I made it at Least 17 mile that way. Oakey Hole is a Large Cavity
under ground Like Poole Hole in Darbyshire, only this seemes to be a
great hill above it. Its full of great Rocks and stones Lying in it just
as if they were hewen out of a quarry and Laid down all in y^e ground,
y^e wall and Roofe is all a Rocky stone, there is a Lofty space they
Call the hall and another y^e parlour, and another the Kitchen, the
Entrance of Each one out of another is w^{th} greate stooping under
Rocks y^t hang down almost to touch y^e ground, beyond this is a Cistern
allwayes full of water, it Looks Cleer to the bottom w^{ch} is all full
of stones as is the sides, just Like Candy or Like the Branches they put
in the boyling of Copperace for y^e Copperice to Crust about it, in the
same manner so y^t y^e water Congeales here into stone and does as it
were bud or grow out one stone out of another. Where Ever this water
drops it does not weare y^e Rock in hollow as some other such
subterranian Caves does but it hardens and does Encrease y^e stone and
that in a Roundness as if it Candy’d as it fell, w^{ch} I am of opinion
it does; so it makes y^e Rocks grow and meete Each other in some places.
They ffancy many Resemblances in the Rocks, as in one place an organ and
in another 2 little Babys and in another part a head w^{ch} they Call
the porters head and another a shape like a dog. They phancy one of y^e
Rocks resembles a woman w^{th} a great belly w^{ch} the Country people
Call the witch w^{ch} made this Cavity under ground for her
Enchantments. The rocks are Glistering and shine Like diamonds and some
you Climbe over where one meetes w^{th} y^e Congealed Drops of water
just Like jceicles hanging down. Some of the stone is white Like
alabaster and Glisters Like mettle. You walke for y^e most part in y^e
Large spaces Called y^e Roomes on a sandy floore, the Roofe so Lofty one
Can scarce discern the top and Carry’s a Great Eccho, soe that takeing
up a great stone as much as a man Can heave up to his head and letting
it fall gives a report Like a Cannon w^{ch} they frequently trye and
Call y^e Shooteing y^e Cannons. At y^e farther End you Come to a water
Call’d y^e well, its of a greate depth and Compass tho’ by the Light of
y^e Candles you may discern the Rock Encompassing it as a wall round.
These hollows are generally very Cold and damp by reason of y^e waters
distilling Continually w^{ch} is very Cold, as jce almost when I put my
hand into y^e Cistern. These Roads are full of hills, and those some of
them high Ridge of hills w^{ch} does discover a vast prospect all wayes,
behind me I saw a Great valley full of jnclosures and Lessar hills by
which you ascend these heights, w^{ch} are all very fruitfull and woody.
Alsoe I Could see the Severn when Encreased to its breadth of 7 mile
over, and there it Disembogues into ye sea; then it gave me a prospect
forward of as Large a vale replenish’d w^{th} fruitefull hills and trees
and good Ground, thence I Could discern Glassenbury tower; this was
Maiden Hill just beyond ye Little town of same name and soe by degrees
descending from a higher to a Lower hill w^{ch} had its ascents as well
as its descents w^{ch} makes y^e miles seem and are Indeed Long tracts
of ground.
From Ocley Hole I went to Wells w^{ch} was on an Even ground one mile
farther, this Wells is what must be Reckoned halfe a Citty this and y^e
Bath makeing up but one Bishops See. Here are two Churches w^{th} y^e
Cathedrall. Y^e Cathedrall has y^e greatest Curiosity for Carv’d work in
stone, the West front is full of all sorts of ffigures, y^e 12 apostles,
y^e K and Q w^{th} angells and figures of all forms, as thick one to
another as Can be, and soe almost all round y^e Church.
The assizes was in the town w^{ch} filled it Like a faire, and Little
stands for selling things was in all the streetes. There I saw y^e town
hall. The streetes are well pitch’d, and a Large market place and
shambles. The Bishops pallace is in a park moated round, nothing worth
notice in it. S^t Andrews well w^{ch} gives name to the town Bubbles up
so quick a spring and becomes the head of two Little rivers w^{ch}
Encreases a Little way off into good rivers. Thence I went to Glasenbury
4 miles, a pretty Levell way till just you Come to the town, then I
ascended a stony hill and went just by the tower w^{ch} is on a green
Round riseing ground. There is only a Little tower remaines Like a
Beacon, it had Bells formerly in it and some superstition observ’d
there, but now its broken down on one side. From this I descended a very
steep stony way into the town; Glasenbury tho’ in ancient tymes was a
Renowned place where was founded the first monastery, its now a Ragged
poor place and the abbey has only the Kitchen remaining in it w^{ch} is
a distinct Building, round like a pigeon house all stone. The walls of
y^e abbey here and there appeares and some Little places and y^e Cellar
or vault w^{ch} if they Cast a stone into the place it gives a great
Echo, and y^e Country people says its y^e Devil set there on a tun of
money w^{ch} makes y^e noise Least they should take it away from him.
There is the holly thorn growing on a Chimney, this the superstitious
Covet much and have gott some of it for their gardens and soe have
almost quite spoiled it, w^{ch} did grow quite round a Chimney tunnell
in the stone. Here is a very pretty Church a good tower well Carv’d all
stone 160 stepps up. Walking in the tower I Could have a prospect of the
whole place w^{ch} appeared very Ragged and decayed. The Church is
neate, there is the Effigee of the abbot on a tombstone Carved all about
w^{th} Eschuteons of a Camell, and round it an jnscription or motto in
old Latin and an old Caracter. It was a phancy of his Stewards who was a
very faithfull Dilligent servant, and as he made use of those Creatures
in his masters service y^t were strong and Industrious so y^e motto
described his services under that resemblance. The Effigee was very
Curious and w^{th} rings on the fingers, but in Monmouths tyme the
soldiers defaced it much.
From thence to Taunton 16 miles through many small places and scattering
houses, through Lanes full of stones and by the Great raines just before
full of wet and Dirt. I passed over a Large Common or bottom of Deep
black Land which is bad for the Rider but good for the abider as the
proverb is; this was 2 or 3 mile long and pass’d and repass’d a river as
it twin’d about at Least ten tymes over stone bridges. This river Comes
from Bridge water 7 mile, the tyde Comes up beyond Bridge water, Even
within 3 mile of Taunton its flowed by the tyde w^{ch} brings up the
Barges w^{th} Coale to this place, after having pass’d a Large Common
w^{ch} on Either hand Leads a great waye, good rich Land w^{th} ditches
and willow trees all for feeding Cattle, and here at this Little place
where the boates unlade the Coale y^e packhorses Comes and takes it in
sacks and so Carryes it to y^e places all about. This is y^e sea Coale
brought from Bristole, the horses Carry 2 Bushell at a tyme w^{ch} at
the place Cost 18^d and when its brought to Taunton Cost 2 shillings.
The roads were full of these Carryers going and returning.
Taunton is a Large town haveing houses of all sorts of buildings both
brick and stone, but mostly timber and plaister, its a very neate place
and Looks substantial as a place of good trade. You meete all sorts of
Country women wrapp’d up in the mantles Called West Country rockets, a
Large mantle doubled together of a sort of serge, some are Linsywolsey
and a deep fringe or ffag at the Lower End, these hang down some to
their feete some only just below y^e wast, in the summer they are all in
white garments of this sort, in the winter they are in Red ones. I Call
them garments because they never go out w^{th} out them and this is the
universal ffashion in Sommerset and Devonshire and Cornwall. Here is a
good Market Cross well Carv’d and a Large Market house on Pillars for
the Corn. I was in the Largest Church, it was mending, it was pretty
Large, the alter stood table wayes in the middle of the Chancell, there
was one good stone Statue stood in the wall, the Effigee was very tall
in a Ruff and Long Black dress Like some Religious w^{th} his Gloves and
book in his hand. There were severall Little monuments with Inscriptions
Round them, they have Encompass’d the Church yard with a new Brick wall
and handsom Iron gates, there is a Large space Called the Castle yard
and some remaines of the Castle walls and Buildings w^{ch} is fitted up
for a good dwelling house. From thence I went to Wellington, they Call
it but 5 mile but its a Long 7 tho’ the way was pretty good; this is a
Little Market town. Thence to Culimton 13 mile more, but Indeed these
were very long Miles, y^e hostler at Tanton did say tho’ they were
reckon’d but 16 miles it really was a good 20 miles and I am much of
that mind. I mostly pass’d through Lanes, I entred Into Devonshire 5
mile off from Wellington, just on a high ridge of hills w^{ch} discovers
a vast prospect on Each side full of Inclosures and Lesser hills w^{ch}
is the Description of most part of the West. You Could see Large tracts
of grounds full of Enclosures good Grass and Corn beset with quicksetts
and hedge rows, and these Lesser hills w^{ch} are scarce perceivable on
y^e Ridge of the uppermost, yet the Least of them have a steep ascent
and descent to pass them. Culimton is a good Little market town, and
market Cross and another set on stone pillars, such a one was at
Wellington but on Brick work pillars. Here was a Large meeteing of neer
4 or 500 people, they have a very good minister but a young man, I was
glad to see soe many tho’ they were but of the meaner sort, for Indeed
its the poor Receive the Gospell and there are in most of the market
towns in the West very good meeteings. This Little place was one
Continued Long streete but few houses y^t struck out of the streete.
From thence 10 mile to Exetter, up hills and down as before, till one
attaines those uppermost Ridges of all w^{ch} discovers the whole
valley, then you sometymes goe a mile or two on a Down till the Brow of
the hill begins in a Descent on the other side. This Citty appears to
view 2 mile distant from one of those heights, and also the River Ex
w^{ch} runs to Topshum where y^e shipps Comes up to the Barre; this is 7
mile by water from w^{ch} they are attempting to make navigeable to the
town, which will be of Mighty advantage to have shipps Come up Close to
the town to take in their Serges w^{ch} now they are forced to send to
Topshum on horses by Land, w^{ch} is about 4 mile by Land. They had just
agreed w^{th} a man that was to accomplish this work for w^{ch} they
were to give 5 or 6000^£, who had made a beginning on it.
Exeter is a town very well built, the streets are well pitch’d, spacious
noble streetes, and a vast trade is Carryed on, as Norwitch is for
Coapes Callamanco and damaske, soe this is for serges. There is an
Increadible quantety of them made and sold in the town. There market day
is Fryday which supplys with all things Like a faire almost; the markets
for meate, fowle, ffish, garden things and the Dairy produce takes up 3
whole streetes besides the Large Market house set on stone pillars,
w^{ch} runs a great Length on w^{ch} they Lay their packs of serges.
Just by it is another walke w^{th} in pillars w^{ch} is for the yarne,
the whole town and Country is Employ’d for at Least 20 mile round in
spinning, weaveing, dressing and scouring, fulling and Drying of the
serges. It turns the most money in a weeke of any thing in England. One
weeke with another there is 10000 pound paid in ready money, Sometymes
15000 pound. The weavers brings in their serges and must have their
money w^{ch} they Employ to provide them yarne to goe to work againe.
There is alsoe a square Court with Penthouses round where the Malters
are w^{th} Mault and oat meal, but the serge is the Chief manufacture.
There is a prodigious quantety of their serges they never bring into the
market but are in hired roomes w^{ch} are noted for it, for it would be
impossible to have it altogether. The Carryers I met going w^{th} it, as
thick, all Entring into town w^{th} their Loaded horses, they bring them
all just from the Loome and soe they are put into the ffulling-mills,
but first they will Clean and Scour their roomes with them, w^{ch} by
the way gives noe pleasing perfume to a roome, the oyle and grease, and
I should think it would Rather foull a roome than Cleanse it because of
the oyles, but I perceive its otherwise Esteemed by them w^{ch} will
send to their acquaintances y^t are tuckers the dayes the serges Comes
in for a Rowle to Clean their house—this I was an Eye witness of. Then
they Lay them in soack in vrine, then they soape them and soe put them
into the ffulling-mills and soe worke them in the mills drye till they
are thick enough then they turne water into them and so scower them. Y^e
mill does draw out and gather in y^e serges, its a pretty divertion to
see it, a sort of huge notch’d timbers Like great teethe;—one would
thinke it should Injure the serges but it does not. Y^e mills draws in
w^{th} such a great violence that if one stands neere it and it Catch a
bitt of your Garments it would be ready to draw in y^e person even in a
trice. When they are thus scour’d they drye them in racks strained out
w^{ch} are as thick set one by another as will permitt y^e dresses to
pass between, and huge Large fields occupy’d this way almost all round
the town w^{ch} is to the river side; then when drye they pick out all
knots then fold them w^{th} a paper between Every fold and so sett them
on an jron plaite and screw down y^e press on them w^{ch} has another
jron plaite on the top under w^{ch} is a furnace of fire of Coales, this
is the hott press; then they fold them Exceeding Exact and then press
them in a Cold press, some they dye but the most are sent up for London
white.
I saw the severall ffatts they were a Dying in of black, yellow, blew
and Green w^{ch} two Last Coullours are dipp’d in the same fatt, that
w^{ch} makes it differ is what they were dipp’d in before w^{ch} makes
them Either green or blew; they hang the Serges on a great beame or
Great pole on the top of y^e fatt and so keep turning it from one to
another—as one turns it off into the ffatt y^e other Rowles it out of
it, soe they do it backwards and forwards till its tinged deep Enough of
the Coullour. Their ffurnace that keepes their dye panns boyling is all
under that roome made of Coale ffires. There was in a roome by itself a
ffatt for the Scarlet that being a very Changeable dye noe waste must be
allow’d in that, Indeed I think they make as fine a Coullour as their
bowdies are in London.
These Rolers I spake of two men does Continually role on and off y^e
pieces of serge till Dipp’d Enough, the length of these pieces are or
should hold out 26 yards. This Citty does Exceedingly resemble London
for besides these buildings I mention’d for y^e severall Markets, there
is an Exchange full of shopps Like our Exchanges are, only its but one
walke along as was the Exchange at Salisbury house in the Strand; there
is also a very Large space Railed in just by the Cathedrall with walks
round it w^{ch} is Called the Exchange for Merchants, that Constantly
meete twice a day just as they do in London. There are 17 Churches in
the Citty and 4 in the subburbs, there is some remaines of the Castle
walls, they make use of the roomes w^{ch} are inside for y^e assizes,
there is the two Barrs besides being Large rooms w^{th} seates and
places Convenient and jury roome, here is a Large walke at y^e Entrance
between Rowes of Pillars, there is besides this just at y^e market place
a Guild hall the Entrance of w^{ch} is a Large place set on stone
Pillars, beyond w^{ch} are y^e roomes for the session or any town
affaires to be adjusted. Behind this building there is a vast Cistern
w^{ch} holds upwards of 600 hodsheads of water which supplyes by pipes
the whole Citty; this Cistern is replenished from the river w^{ch} is on
purpose turned into a Little Channell by it self to turn the mill, and
ffills the Engine that Casts y^e water into the truncks w^{ch} Conveys
it to this Cistern. The water Engine is Like those at Islington and at
Darby as I have seen, and is what now they make use of in Diverse places
Either to supply them w^{th} water or to draine a marsh or overplus of
water. The river X is a fine streame, they have made severall bayes or
wires above the Bridge w^{ch} Casts y^e water into many Channells for
the Conveniencys of turning all their mills, by w^{ch} meanes they have
Composed a Little jsland, for at the End it againe returns into its own
united Channell. Those wires makes great falls into y^e water, it Comes
w^{th} great violence; here they Catch the Salmon as they Leap w^{th}
speares, the first of these Bayes is a very great one, there is one
below the bridge w^{ch} must be taken away when the navigation is
Compleate for they will need all their water together to fill it to a
Depth to Carry the shipps for just by the Bridge is the Key design’d, or
y^t w^{ch} now is already they will Enlarge to that place. Just by this
key is the Custome house, an open space below w^{th} rows of pillars
w^{ch} they Lay in goods just as its unladen out of the shipps in Case
of wet. Just by are Severall Little roomes for Land waiters &c, then you
ascend up a handsome pair of staires into a Large roome full of Desks
and Little partitions for the writers and accountants, it was full of
books and files of paper. By it are two other Roomes w^{ch} are used in
the same way when there is a great deale of Bussiness. There are
severall good Conduites to Supply y^e Citty w^{th} water besides that
Cistern, there is alsoe a very fine market Cross.
The Cathedrall at Exetter is preserv’d in its outside adornments beyond
most I have seen, there remaining more of y^e fine Carv’d worke in
stone, the ffigures and nitches full and in proportion, tho’ Indeed I
Cannot say it has that great Curiosity of work and variety as the great
Church at Wells. Its a Lofty building in y^e Inside, the Largest pair of
organs[1] I have Ever seen w^{th} fine Carving of wood w^{ch} runs up a
Great height, and made a magnificent appearance. The Quire is very
neate, but y^e Bishops seate or throne was Exceeding and very high and
y^e Carving very fine and took up a Great Compass full of all variety of
ffigures, something Like the worke over y^e arch Bishops throne in S^t
Pauls, London, but this was Larger if not so Curious. There was severall
good monuments and Effigies of Bishops; there was one of a judge and his
Lady that was very Curious, their Garments Embroyder’d all marble and
Gilt and painted. There was a very Large good Library in w^{ch} was a
press that had an anatomy of a woman. Y^e tower is 167 steps up on which
I had a view of y^e whole town w^{ch} is Generally well built. I saw y^e
Bishops pallace and Garden, there is a long walke as well as broad,
Enclosed w^{th} rows of Lofty trees which made it shady and very
pleasant, w^{ch} went along by the Ditch and banck on w^{ch} the town
wall stands. There are 5 gates to y^e town, there is alsoe another Long
walke within shady trees on y^e other side of the town, w^{ch} Leads to
the Grounds where the drying frames are set up for the serges.
Footnote 1:
The great pipe 15 inches diameter is two more y^n the celebrated one
at Coln.
Ffrom thence I pass’d the Bridge aCross the River Ex to Chedly w^{ch}
was 9 mile, mostly Lanes and a Continual going up hill and down, some of
them pretty steep hills and all these Lesser hills as I have observ’d
rises higher and higher till it advances you upon the high Ridge w^{ch}
discovers to view the Great valleys below full of those Lesser hills and
jnclosures w^{th} quicksett hedges and trees and Rich Land, but the
Roads are not to be seen being all along in Lanes Cover’d over with y^e
shelter of the hedges and trees. Then when I was on y^e top hill I went
3 or 4 miles on an open down w^{ch} brought me to the Edge of another
such a Ridge, w^{ch} was by some steps to be descended as it was gained
by y^e Lesser hills one below another till I Came to y^e bottom, and
then I had about 2 or 3 mile along on a plaine or Common w^{ch} for the
most part are a Little moorish by reason of their receiving the water
that draines from the severall Great hills on Either side, and so then I
am to rise up another such a Range of hills, and as neer as I Could
Compute in my Rideing it was 6 or 7 miles between one high Ridge of
hills to that over against it, whereas were there a Bridge over from one
top to the other it Could not be 2 mile distant; but this does give them
y^e advantage of severall acres of Land by reason of the many hills
w^{ch} if drawn out on plaines as in some other parts would appear much
vaster tracts of Land. On these hills as I said one Can discern Little
besides inclosures hedges and trees, rarely Can see houses unless you
are just descending to them, they allwayes are placed in holes as it
were and you have a precipice to go down to Come at them. Y^e Lanes are
full of stones and dirt for y^e most part because they are so Close the
sun and wind Cannot Come at them, soe that in many places you travell on
Causeys w^{ch} are uneven also for want of a Continued repaire.
From Chedly to Ashburton is 11 mile more, in all 20 mile from Exeter,
the Roads being much the same as before. This Ashburton is a poor Little
town—bad was the best Inn. Its a market town and here are a Great many
descenters and those of the most Considerable persons in the town; there
was a presbiterian, an anabaptist, and quakers meeteing. Thence I went
for Plymouth 24 long miles, and here the Roades Contract and y^e Lanes
are exceeding narrow and so Cover’d up you Can see Little about; an army
Might be marching undiscover’d by any body, for when you are on those
heights that shews a vast Country about you Cannot see one Road. The
wayes now become so difficult y^t one Could scarcely pass by Each other,
Even y^e single horses, and so Dirty in many places, and just a track
for one horses feete, and the Banks on Either side so neer, and were
they not well secured and mended w^{th} stones stuck Close Like a Drye
wall Everywhere when they discover the Bancks to Breake and molder down,
which Else would be in Danger of swallowing up the way quite; for on
these bancks (w^{ch} are some of them naturall Rocks and quarrys, others
mended w^{th} such stone or slate stuck Edgewayes to secure them) for
the quicksetts and trees that grow on these Bancks Loosen the mold and
so makes it molder downe sometymes. I pass’d through severall Little
places and over some stone Bridges. Y^e waters are pretty broad soe
these are 4 or 5 arches most Bridges, all stone. The running of y^e
waters is w^{th} a huge Rushing by reason of y^e stones w^{ch} Lye in
the water, some of them Great rocks w^{ch} gives some Interruption to
y^e Current w^{ch} finding another way Either by its sides or mounting
over part of it Causes y^e frothing of y^e water and y^e noise—the
rivers being full of stones bigger or Less. About 4 or 5 mile from
ashburton I Came to a Little place Called Dean and at y^e End of it
ascended a very steep hill, all rock almost; and so it was Like so many
steps up, this is Called Dean Clapperhill, it was an untoward place but
not soe fformidable to me as the people of y^e place where I Lay
described it, haveing gone much worse hills in the North. All along on
the road where the Lanes are a Little broader you ride by rowes of trees
on Each side, set and kept Exactly Even and Cut, y^e tops being for
shade and beauty and they in exact forme as if a Grove to some house. At
first I thought it was neer some houses till the frequency and Length
proved the Contrary, for there are very few if any houses neare the
Road, unless the Little villages you passe through. This Country being
almost full of stone the streetes and roades too have a naturall sort of
paveing or Pitching tho’ uneven. All their Carriages are here on y^e
Backs of horses, w^{th} sort of hookes Like yoakes stands upon Each side
of a good height, w^{ch} are the Receptacles of their goods Either wood,
ffurse or Lime or Coale or Corn or hay or straw or what Else they Convey
from place to place, and I Cannot see how two such horses Can pass Each
other or Indeed in some places how any horse Can pass by Each other, and
yet these are the roads y^t are all here abouts. Some Little Corners may
jutt out that one may a Little get out of y^e way of Each other, but
this but seldom. Two mile from Plymouth we Come to y^e river Plym just
by a Little town all built of stone and y^e tyleing is all flatt w^{ch}
with y^e Lime its Cemented, w^{ch} makes it Look white Like snow, and in
the sun shineing on the slatt it Glisters.
Here I Came in sight on y^e Right hand of a very Large house built all
with this sort of stone w^{ch} is a sort of marble. Even all quaryes
are, and some ffine marble. This house Look’d very finely in a thicket
of trees Like a Grove and was on the side of a hill and Led just down to
the head of y^e river Plym w^{ch} is fill’d with y^e tyde from the sea,
and here I Cross’d it on a stone bridge. Soe I Rode 2 miles mostly by
the river w^{ch} encreases and is a fine broad streame and at y^e town
w^{ch} is its mouth it falls into the sea. The sea here runs into
severall Creekes, one place it runs up to y^e Dock and Milbrook, another
arm of y^e sea goes up to Saltash and Port Eliot.
Plymouth is 2 Parishes Called y^e old town and y^e new, the houses all
built of this marble and y^e Slatt at the top Lookes Like Lead and
glisters in the sun. There are noe great houses in the town, the
streetes are good and Clean, there is a great many tho’ some are but
narrow, they are mostly inhabitted w^{th} seamen and those w^{ch} have
affaires on y^e sea, for here up to the town there is a Depth of water
for shipps of y^e first Rate to Ride. Its Great sea and Dangerous by
reason of y^e severall poynts of Land between w^{ch} the sea runs up a
Great way, and there are severall Little jslands alsoe all w^{ch} beares
the severall tydes hard one against y^e other. There are two keyes, the
one is a broad space w^{ch} Leads you up into the broad streete and is
used in manner of an exchange for the merchants meeteing, for in this
streete alsoe is a fine stone Crosse and alsoe a long market house set
on stone Pillars. There are severall good Cunduits to Convey the water
to the town w^{ch} Conveyance y^e famous S^r Ffrancis Drake (w^{ch} did
encompass y^e world in Queen Elizabeths dayes and Landed safe at
Plymouth) he gave this to y^e town. There are two Churches in the town
but nothing fine. I was in y^e best and saw only King Charles the firsts
Picture at Length at prayer just as its Cut on the frontispiece of the
jnenicum. This picture was Drawn and given the Church when he was in his
troubles, for some piece of service shewn him. The alter stands in the
Chancell or Railed place, but it stands table wise the Length and not up
against the wall. The ffont was of marble and Indeed soe is all
buildings here for their stone is all a sort of Marble, some Coarser
some finer. There are 4 Large meetings for the descenters in the town
takeing in the Quakers and anabaptists.
The mouth of y^e river just at y^e town is a very good Harbour for
Shipps, the Dockyards are about 2 mile from the town—by boate you goe to
it y^e nearest way—its one of y^e best in England. A Great many good
shipps built there, and the Great Depth of water w^{ch} Comes up to it
tho’ it runs for 2 mile between y^e Land, w^{ch} also shelters y^e
shipps. There is a great deale of Buildings on the Dock, a very good
house for the Masters and severall Lesser ones, and house for their
Cordage and makeing Ropes, and all sorts of things required in building
or Refitting ships, it Lookes Like a Little town. The Buildings are so
many and all of marble w^{th} ffine slate on y^e Rooffs and at a Little
Distance it makes all the houses shew as if they were Cover’d w^{th}
snow and Glisters in y^e sunn w^{ch} adds to their beauty. Y^e ffine and
only thing in Plymouth town is the Cittadell or Castle w^{ch} stands
very high above the town, the walls and battlements round it w^{th} all
their Works and Plattforms are in very good repaire and Lookes nobly,
all marble full of towers w^{th} stone Balls on the top and Gilt on the
top; the Entrance being by an ascent up a hill Looks very noble over 2
drawbridges and Gates, w^{ch} are Marble as is the whole, Well Carv’d,
the Gate w^{th} armory and statues all Gilt and on the top 7 Gold balls.
Ye buildings within are very neate, a Large appartment for the
Governour, w^{th} others that are Less for y^e severall officers. There
is a Long building alsoe w^{ch} is y^e arsnell for y^e arms and
amunition, and just by it a round building well secured w^{ch} was for
the powder round the works in the Plattform for the Gunns w^{ch} are
well mounted and very well kept. Walking round I had the view of all the
town and alsoe part off y^e Main Ocean in w^{ch} are some jslands. There
is S^t Nicholas jsland w^{th} a ffort in it, there it was Harry Martin
one of y^e Kings judges was banished Dureing Life. There you Can just
Discover a Light house w^{ch} is building on a meer Rock in the middle
of y^e sea, this is 7 Leagues off, it will be of Great advantage for y^e
Guide of y^e shipps y^t pass that way. From this you have a Good
refflection on y^e Great Care and provision y^e wise God makes for all
persons and things in his Creation, that there should be in some places
where there is any Difficulty rocks Even in the midst of y^e deep w^{ch}
Can be made use of for a Constant Guide and mark for the passengers on
their voyages, but the Earth is full of y^e goodness of y^e Lord and soe
is this Great sea wherein are jnumerable beings Created and preserv’d by
y^e same almighty hand Whose is the Earth and all things there in, he is
Lord of all. From the plattform I Could see y^e Dock and also just
ag^{st} it I saw mount EdgeComb a seate of S^r Richard EdgComes, it
stands on the side of a hill all bedeck’d w^{th} woods w^{ch} are
Divided into several Rowes of trees in walks, the house being all of
this white marble. Its built round a Court so the four sides are alike,
at y^e Corners of it are towers w^{ch} w^{th} y^e Lanthorne or Cupilow
in the middle Lookes well, the house is not very Lofty nor the windows
high but it Looked Like a very uniforme neate building and pretty Large.
There is a Long Walke from one part of y^e front down to y^e waterside,
w^{ch} is on a descent guarded w^{th} shady Rowes of trees, there is a
fine terrass walled in, at y^e water side is open gates in y^e middle
and a sumer house at Each End, from whence a wall is Drawn Round the
house and Gardens and a Large parck, the wall of which I Rode by a good
while; so y^t altogether and its scituation makes it Esteemed by me the
finest seate I have seen and might be more Rightly named mount pleasant.
From Plymouth I went 1 mile to Cribly Fferry w^{ch} is a very hazardous
passage by reason of 3 tydes meeting. Had I known y^e Danger before, I
should not have been very willing to have gone it, not but this is y^e
Constant way all people goe, and saved severall miles rideings, I was at
Least an hour going over, it was about a mile but Indeed in some places
notwithstanding there was 5 men Row’d and I sett my own men to Row alsoe
I do believe we made not a step of way for almost a quarter of an hour,
but blessed be God I Came safely over; but those fferry boates are soe
wet and then the sea and wind is allwayes Cold to be upon, that I never
faile to Catch Cold in a fferry boate as I did this day haveing 2 more
fferrys to Cross tho’ none soe bad or halfe soe Long as this. Thence to
Milbrooke 2 mile and went all along by the water and had the full view
of ye Dock yards. Here I entred into Cornwall and soe passed over many
very steep stony hills, tho’ here I had some 2 or 3 miles of Exceeding
good way on the downs, and then I Came to y^e steep precipices—Great
Rocky hills—ever and anon I Came down to the sea and Rode by its side on
the sand, then mounted up againe on y^e hills w^{ch} Carryed me along
Mostly in sight of y^e Southsea. Sometymes I was in Lanes full of Rowes
of trees and then I Came down a very steep stony hill to Lonn 13 mile,
and here I Crossed a Little arme of y^e sea on a Bridge of 14 arches.
This is a pretty bigg seaport, a Great many Little houses all of stone,
and steep hill much worse and 3 tymes as Long as Dean Clapper hill, and
soe I continued up and down hill. Here Indeed I met w^{th} more jnclosed
Ground and soe had more Lanes and a Deeper Clay Road w^{ch} by the raine
y^e night before had made it very Dirty and full of water in many
places, in the Road there are many holes and sloughs where Ever there is
Clay Ground, and when by raines they are filled with water its difficult
to shun Danger; here my horse was quite down in one of these holes full
of water but by y^e good hand of God’s providence w^{ch} has allwayes
been w^{th} me Even a present help in tyme of need, for giving him a
good strap he fflounc’d up againe tho’ he had gotten quite down his head
and all, yet did retrieve his ffeete and gott Cleer off y^e place w^{th}
me on his Back. Soe I Came to Hoile 8 mile more, they are very Long
miles y^e ffarther West but you have y^e pleasure of Rideing as if in a
Grove in most places, y^e Regular Rowes of trees on Each side y^e Roade
as if it were an Entrance into some gentlemans Ground to his house. I
fferryed over againe Cross an arme of y^e sea, here it was not broad but
Exceeding deep. This is y^e Southsea w^{ch} runs into many Little
Creekes for severall miles into y^e Land w^{ch} is all y^e rivers they
have. I observed this to be exceeding salt and as green as ever I saw
y^e sea when I have been a League or two out from y^e Land, w^{ch} shews
it must be very deep and Great tides. This Hoile is a narrow stony town,
y^e streetes very Close, and as I descended a Great steep into y^e town,
soe I ascended one up a stony Long hill farre worse and full of shelves
and Rocks and 3 tymes as Long as Dean Clapperhill, w^{ch} I Name because
when I was there they would have frighted me with its terribleness as
y^e most inaccessible place as Ever was and none Like it, and my opinion
is y^t it was but one or two steps, to other places forty steps and them
w^{th} more hazard than this of Dean Clapper. Well, to pass on, I went
over some Little heath Ground but mostly Lanes, and those stony and
Dirty, 3 mile and halfe to Parr; here I fferry’d over againe, not but
when the tyde is out you may ford it.
Thence I went over the heath to S^t Austins w^{ch} is a Little market
town where I Lay, but their houses are like Barnes up to y^e top of y^e
house. Here was a pretty good dineing room and Chamber within it and
very neate Country women. My Landlady brought me one of y^e west Country
tarts this was y^e first I met w^{th} though. I had asked for them in
many places in Sommerset and Devonshire; its an apple pye w^{th} a
Custard all on the top, its y^e most acceptable entertainment y^t Could
be made me. They scald their Creame and milk in most parts of those
Countrys and so its a sort of Clouted Creame as we Call it, w^{th} a
Little sugar and soe put on y^e top of y^e apple Pye. I was much pleased
w^{th} my supper tho’ not with the Custome of the Country w^{ch} is a
universall smoaking, both men women and children have all their pipes of
tobacco in their mouths and soe sit round the fire smoaking w^{ch} was
not delightfull to me when I went down to talke w^{th} my Landlady for
jnformation of any matter and Customs amongst them. I must say they are
as Comely sort of women as I have seen any where tho’ in ordinary
dress—good black Eyes and Crafty enough and very neate. Halfe a mile
from hence they blow their tin w^{ch} went to see. They take y^e ore and
pound it in a stamping mill w^{ch} resembles the paper mills, and when
its fine as y^e finest sand—some of w^{ch} I saw and took—this they
fling into a ffurnace and w^{th} it Coale to make the fire. So it burns
together and makes a violent heate and fierce flame, the mettle by y^e
fire being separated from y^e Coale and its own Drosse, being heavy
falls down to a trench made to receive it at y^e furnace hole below.
This Liquid mettle I saw them shovel up w^{th} an jron shovel and soe
pour it into molds in w^{ch} it Cooles and soe they take it thence in
sort of wedges or piggs I think they Call them, its a fine mettle in its
first melting—Looks Like silver—I had a piece poured out and made Cold
for to take w^{th} me. Y^e oare as its just dug Lookes Like y^e
thunderstones, a greenish hue full of pendust this seemes to Containe
its full description, y^e shineing part is white. I went a mile farther
on y^e hills and soe Came where they were digging in the tinn mines,
there was at Least 20 mines all in sight w^{ch} employs a Great many
people at work almost night and day, but Constantly all and Every day
jncluding the Lords day w^{ch} they are forced to prevent their mines
being overflowed w^{th} water. More than 1000 men are taken up about
them, few mines but had then almost 20 men and boys attending it either
down in y^e mines digging and Carrying y^e oare to the Little Bucket
w^{ch} Conveys it up, or Else others are Draineing the water and Looking
to y^e Engines y^t are draineing it, and those above are attending y^e
drawing up the oare in a sort of windlass as is to a Well. Two men keeps
turning bringing up one and Letting down another, they are much Like the
Leather Buckets they use in London to put out fire, w^{ch} hang up in
Churches and Great mens halls. They have a Great Labour and Great
expence to draine the mines of the water w^{th} mills that horses turn,
and now they have y^e mills or water Engines that are turned by the
water w^{ch} is Convey’d on frames of timber and truncks to hold y^e
water, w^{ch} falls down on y^e wheeles as an over shott mill, and these
are y^e sort that turns y^e water into y^e severall towns I have seen
about London, Darby and Exeter and many places more. They do five tymes
more good than the mills they use to turn w^{th} horses, but then they
are much more Chargeable. Those mines do require a great deale of timber
to support them and to make all those engines and mills, w^{ch} makes
fewell very scarce here; they burn mostly turffs w^{ch} is an unpleasant
smell, it makes one smell as if smoaked Like Bacon. This ore as said is
made fine powder in a Stamping Mill w^{ch} is Like y^e paper mills, only
these are pounded drye and noe water Let into them as is to y^e Raggs,
to work them into a paste. Ye mills are all turned w^{th} a Little
Streame or Channell of water you may step over, jndeed they have noe
other mills but such in all the Country; I saw not a windmill all over
Cornwall or Devonshire tho’ they have wind and hills Enough, and it may
be its too Bleake for them. In the tinn mines there is stone Dug out and
a sort of spar something Like what I have seen in the Lead mines at
Darbyshire but it seemed more sollid and hard, it shines and Lookes Like
mother of pearle. They alsoe digg out stones as Cleer as Christal w^{ch}
is Called Cornish Diamonds. I saw one as bigg as my two ffists, very
Cleer and Like some pieces of Chrystal my father brought from y^e Alps
In Italy w^{ch} I have by me. I got one of those pieces of their Cornish
Diamonds as Long as halfe my finger w^{ch} had three or four flatt sides
w^{th} Edges, the top was sharpe and so hard as it would Cut a Letter on
glass. Thence I went to —— 6 miles good way, and passed by 100 mines
some on which they were at work, others that were lost by y^e waters
overwhelming them. I crossed y^e water on a Long stone bridge and so
through dirty stony Lanes 3 mile and then I Came into a broad Coach Rode
which I have not seen since I Left Exeter, so I went 3 mile more to M^r
Boscawens—Trygothy—a Relation of mine. His house stands on a high hill
in the middle of a parke with severall Rows of trees with woods beyond
it. Y^e house is built all of white stone like the Rough Coarse Marble
and Cover’d w^{th} slate. They use much Lime in their Cement w^{ch}
makes both walls and Cover Look very white. There is a Court walled
round w^{th} open Iron gates and barrs. The Entrance is up a few stone
steps into a Large high hall and so to a passage that Leads foreright up
a good stair Case. On y^e Right side is a Large Common parlour for
Constant Eating in, from whence goes a Little roome for smoaking y^t has
a back way into the kitchin, and on the Left hand is a Great parlour and
drawing roome—wanscoated all very well but plaine. Y^e Great Parlour is
Cedar, out of y^t is the Drawing-roome which is hung with pictures of
the family, that goes into y^e garden w^{ch} has Gravell walks round and
across, but y^e squares are full of goosebery and shrub-trees and Looks
more Like a Kitchen garden as Lady Mary Boscawen told me, out of w^{ch}
is another Garden and orchard which is something Like a Grove, Green
walks w^{th} rows of fruit trees. Its Capable of being a fine place
w^{th} some Charge, the roomes above are new modell’d, 3 roomes
wanscoated and hung as y^e new way is, and y^e beds made up well, one
red damaske, another Green, another wrought some of y^e Ladyes own work
and well made up, w^{ch} is her own Roome w^{th} a dressing roome by it.
There is a dressing roome and a roome for a servant just by y^e best
Chamber. There are two other good roomes unalter’d w^{th} old hangings
to y^e bottom on wrought work of y^e first Ladyes. Lady Margets work,
y^t was my Cos’n German, within that roome was a servants roome and back
staires, there was just such another apartment on y^e other side.
Between all from the staires a broad passage Leads to a Balcony over the
Entrance w^{ch} Look’d very pleasantly over the parke but in the Cupulo
on y^e Leads I Could see a vast way, at Least 20 mile round; for this
house stands very high to y^e Land side Eastward, and the south was the
Great Ocean w^{ch} runns into Falmouth thats y^e best harbour for shipps
in that road. 6 mile from this place westward was to Truro and the north
to the hills full of Copper mines. Here I was very Civily Entertained:
from thence I returned back Intending not to goe to y^e Lands End w^{ch}
was 30 miles farther for feare of y^e raines that fell in the night
w^{ch} made me doubt what travelling I should have; soe to S^t Culumb I
went, a pretty Long 12 mile. Here I met with many Rowes of Elm trees
w^{ch} I have not found in any Country Except Wiltshire; these were
mostly soe, tho’ there were alsoe ashes and oakes. Y^e hedges were
Hazelthorne and Holly but to see soe many good rowes of trees on y^e
road is surprising and Looks Like the Entrance to some Gentlemans house,
and I cannot tell but some of them were soe tho’ a mile off from y^e
house.
The next day finding it faire weather on y^e Change of y^e moone, I
alter’d my Resolution and soe went for y^e Lands End by Redruth 18
miles, mostly over heath and Downs w^{ch} was very bleake and full of
mines.
Here I Came by the Copper mines w^{ch} have the same order in the
digging and draining, tho’ here it seemes Dryer and I believe not quite
soe annoy’d w^{th} water. The ore is something as the tinn only this
Looks blackish, or rather a purple Colour, and y^e glistering part is
yellow as y^e other was white. They do not melt it here but ship it off
to Bristol by y^e North Sea w^{ch} I Rode in sight of, and is not above
2 or 3 Mile from hence, which supplyes them with Coales for their fewell
at Easyer rates than the other side Plymouth and the South Sea, because
since y^e warre they Could not Double y^e poynt at y^e Lands End, being
so neer Ffrance y^e pirats or Privateers met them. Indeed at S^t Jves
they do melt a Little but nothing that is Considerable—that is 10 mile
from Redruth w^{ch} is a Little market town. Here they Carry all their
things on horses backs soe that of a market day w^{ch} was Fryday you
see a great number of horses Little of size w^{ch} they Call Cornish
Canelys. They are well made and strong and will trip along as Light on
the stony road without injury to themselves, where as my horses went so
heavy that they wore their shoes immediately thinn and off, but here I
met with a very good smith that shooed y^e horses as well as they do in
London, and that is not Common in the Country, but here I found it soe,
and at a place in Westmoreland by y^e ffells a smith made good shoes and
set them on very well. From Redruth I went to Pensands 15 mile and
passed by y^e ruines of Great ffortification or Castle on a high hill
about 3 mile from Redruth and passed to Hailes and soe went by y^e sea
side a great way, it being spring tide it was a full sea. Just over
against it there was a Church w^{ch} was almost sunck into y^e sands
being a very sandy place. So I went up pretty high hills and over some
heath or Common, on w^{ch} a Great storme of haile and raine met me and
drove fiercely on me but y^e wind soone dry’d my Dust Coate. Here I Came
by a very good Grove of trees w^{ch} I thought was by some Gentlemans
house but found it some ffarmers.
The people here are very ill Guides and know but Little from home, only
to some market town they frequent, but will be very solicitous to know
where you goe and how farre and from whence you Came and where is y^e
abode. Then I Came in sight of y^e hill in Cornwall Called y^e Mount,
its on a Rock in the sea w^{ch} at y^e flowing tyde is an jsland, but at
Low water one Can goe over y^e sands almost just to it, its but a Little
market town w^{ch} is about 2 mile from Panzants, and you may walke or
Ride to it all on y^e sands when y^e tyde’s out. Its a ffine Rock and
very high—severall Little houses for fisher men—in y^e sides of it just
by the water. At y^e top is a pretty good house where the Govenour Lives
sometymes,—S^r —— Hook his name is—there is a tower on the top on w^{ch}
is a fflag. There is a Chaire or throne on the top from whence they Can
discover a Great way at sea and here they put up Lights to direct
shipps.
Pensands is Rightly named being all sands about it—it Lies just as a
shore to y^e maine South ocean w^{ch} Comes from y^e Lizard and being on
y^e side of a hill w^{th} a high hill all round y^e side to y^e Landward
it Lookes soe snugg and warme, and truely it needs shelter haveing the
sea on y^e other side and Little or no ffewell—turff and ffurse and
fferne. They have Little or noe wood and noe Coale w^{ch} differences it
from Darbyshire, otherwise this and to y^e Land’s End is stone and
barren as Darbyshire. I was surprised to ffind my supper boyling on a
fire allwayes supply’d w^{th} a bush of ffurse and y^t to be y^e only
ffewell to dress a joynt of meat and broth, and told them they Could not
roast me anything, but they have a Little wood for such occasions but
its scarce and dear w^{ch} is a strange thing y^t y^e shipps should not
supply them. They told me it must all be brought round the Lands End and
since y^e warre they Could not have it. This town is two parishes, one
Church in y^e town and a Little Chappell and another Church belonging to
y^e other parish w^{ch} is a mile distance. There is alsoe a good
meeteing place.
There is a good Key and a good Harbour for y^e shipps to Ride, by meanes
of y^e point of Land w^{ch} runns into y^e Sea in a neck or Compass
w^{ch} shelters it from y^e maine and answers the Lizard point w^{ch}
you see very plaine—a point of Land Looks Like a Double hill one above
y^e other that runns a good way into y^e sea. Y^e Lands End is 10 mile
ffarther, pretty steep and narrow Lanes, but its not shelter’d w^{th}
trees or hedg Rows this being rather desart and Like y^e peake Country
in Darbyshire, dry stone walls, and y^e hills full of stones, but it is
in most places better Land and yeilds good Corne, both wheate Barley and
oates and some Rhye. About 2 mile from the Lands End I Came in sight of
y^e maine ocean on both sides, the south and north sea and soe Rode in
its view till I saw them joyn’d at y^e poynt, and saw the jsland of Sily
w^{ch} is 7 Leagues off y^e Lands End. They tell me that in a Cleer day
those in the Island Can discern the people in the maine as they goe up
y^e hill to Church, they Can Describe their Clothes. This Church and
Little parish w^{ch} is Called Church town is about a mile from the
poynt. The houses are but poor Cottages Like Barns to Look on, much Like
those in Scotland, but to doe my own Country its right y^e Inside of
their Little Cottages are Clean and plaister’d and such as you might
Comfortably Eate and drink in, and for Curiosity sake I dranck there and
met w^{th} very good bottled ale. The Lands End terminates in a poynt or
Peak of Great Rocks w^{ch} runs a good way into y^e sea, I Clamber’d
over them as farre as safety permitted me, there are abundance of Rocks
and Sholes of stones stands up in the sea a mile off some here and
there, some quite to y^e shore, w^{ch} they name by severall names of
Knights and Ladies Roled up in mantles from some old tradition or
ffiction—Y^e poets advance description of y^e amours of some Great
persons; but these many Rocks and Stones w^{ch} Lookes Like y^e Needles
in y^e Isle of Wight makes it hazardous for shipps to double y^e poynt
Especially in stormy weather. Here at y^e Lands end they are but a
Little way off of France, 2 dayes saile at farthest Convey them to Hauve
de Grace in France, but y^e peace being but newly entred into w^{th} y^e
Ffrench I was not willing to venture at Least by myself into a fforreign
Kingdom, and being then at y^e End of y^e Land, my horses Leggs Could
not Carry me through y^e deep, and so return’d againe to Pensands 10
mile more, and soe Came in view of both y^e seas and saw y^e Lizard
point and Pensands and y^e Mount in Cornwall w^{ch} Looked very fine in
y^e broad day, the sunn shineing on y^e rocke in y^e sea. Then I
continued my returne from Pensands to Hailing and now y^e tyde was down
and so much Land appeared w^{ch} lay under water before, and I might
have forded quite a crosse, many y^t know y^e country do, but I tooke
y^e safer way round by y^e bridge. Here is abundance of very good Fish
tho’ they are so ill supply’d at Pensands because they carry it all up
y^e Country East and Southward. This is an arme of y^e North Sea w^{ch}
runs in a greate way into y^e Land, its a Large Bay when y^e sea comes
in and upon y^e next hill I ascended from it could discover it more
plaine to be a deep water and y^e supply of y^e maine ocean. Just by
here lay some ships and I perceived as I went, there being a Storme, it
seemed very tempestious and is a hazardous place in the high tides; so I
came to Redruth. I perceive they are very bleake in these Countryes
especially to this North Ocean and y^e winds so troublesome they are
forced to spin straw and so make a caul or net work to lay over their
thatch on their Ricks and out houses, w^{th} waites of Stones round to
defend y^e thatch from being blown away by y^e greate winds, not but
they have a better way of thatching their Houses w^{th} Reeds and so
close y^t when its well done will last twenty yeares, but what I mention
of braces or bands of straw is on their Rickes w^{ch} only is to hold a
yeare. These places as in some other parts, indeed all over Cornwall and
Devonshire, they have their carryages on horses backes, this being y^e
time of harvest, tho’ later in y^e yeare than usuall being y^e middle of
septemb^r, but I had y^e advantage of seeing their harvest bringing in,
w^{ch} is on a horse’s backe w^{th} sort of crookes of wood like yokes
on either side—two or three on a side stands up in w^{ch} they stow y^e
corne and so tie it w^{th} cords, but they cannot so equally poise it
but y^e going of y^e horse is like to cast it down sometimes on y^e one
side and sometimes on y^e other, for they load them from y^e neck to y^e
taile and pretty high and are forced to support it w^{th} their hands,
so to a horse they have two people, and the women leads and supports
them as well as y^e men and goe through thick and thinn—sometymes I have
met with half a score horses thus Loaded—they are Indeed but Little
horses their Canelles as they Call them, and soe may not be able to draw
a Cart, otherwise I am sure 3 or 4 horses might draw 3 tymes as much as
4 horses does Carry and where it is open Ground and roads broad, w^{ch}
in some places here it was, I wondred at their Labour in this kind, for
the men and the women themselves toiled Like their horses, but the
Common observation of Custom being as a second nature people are very
hardly Convinc’d or brought off from, tho’ never soe jnconvenient.
From Redruth I went to Truro 8 mile, w^{ch} is a pretty Little town and
seaport and formerly was Esteemed the best town in Cornwall, now is the
second next Lanstone. Its just by y^e Copper and tinn mines and Lies
down in a bottom, pretty steep ascent as most of the towns in these
Countrys, that you would be afraid of tumbling w^{th} nose and head
foremost. Ye town is built of stone—a good pretty Church built all stone
and Carv’d on y^e outside, it stands in y^e middle of y^e town, and just
by there is a market house on stone pillars and hall on y^e top; there
is alsoe a pretty good key. This was formerly a great tradeing town and
flourish’d in all things, but now as there is in all places their Rise
and period soe this, w^{ch} is become a Ruinated disregarded place. Here
is a very good meeteing but I was hindred by y^e raine y^e Lords day
Else should have Come to hearing, and so was forced to stay where I
Could hear but one Sermon at y^e Church, but by it saw y^e fashion of
y^e Country being obliged to go a mile to y^e parish Church over some
Grounds w^{ch} are divided by such stiles and bridges uncommon, and I
never saw any such before; they are severall stones fixed aCross and so
are Like a Grate or Large Steps over a Ditch that is full of mudd or
water, and over this just in the middle is a Great stone fixed side
wayes w^{ch} is the style to be Clambered over. These I find are the
ffences and Guards of their Grounds one from another, and Indeed they
are very troublesome and dangerous for strangers and Children. I heard a
pretty good Sermon but that w^{ch} was my Greatest pleasure was the good
Landlady I had, she was but an ordinary plaine woman but she was
understanding in the best things as most,—y^e Experience of reall
religion and her quiet submision and self Resignation to y^e will of God
in all things, and especially in y^e placeing her in a remoteness to y^e
best advantages of hearing, and being in such a publick Employment
w^{ch} she desired and aimed at y^e discharging soe as to adorne y^e
Gospel of her Lord and Saviour, and the Care of her Children. Indeed I
was much pleased and Edify’d by her Conversation and y^e pitch of Soul
Resignation to y^e will of God and thankfulness that God Enabled and
owned her there in, was an attainment few reach y^t have greater
advantages of Learning and knowing y^e mind of God. But this plainly Led
me to see that as God himself teacheth soe as none teacheth Like him,
soe he Can Discover himself to those immediately y^t have not the
opportunity of seeing him in his sanctuary, and therefore to him we must
address for help in this or any Duty he Calls us to, both in the use of
what meanes he appoynts as alsoe for success and blessing on it.
From Truro w^{ch} is 9 mile from Ffallmouth and 4 mile from Trygolny
w^{ch} was y^e place I was at before w^{th} my Relation, that would have
Engaged my stay with them a few dayes or weekes to have given me the
diversion of the Country, and to have heard the Cornish nightingales as
they Call them, the Cornish Chough—a sort of Jackdaw if I mistake not—a
Little black bird w^{ch} makes them a visit about Michaelmas and gives
them y^e diversion of the notes w^{ch} is a Rough sort of musick not
unlike y^e Bird I take them for, so I believe they by way of jest put on
the Cornish Gentlemen by Calling them nightingales; but the season of
the year enclined to raine and y^e dayes declineing I was affraid to
delay my Return, and these parts not abounding w^{th} much accomodation
for horses, theirs being a hard sort of Cattle and Live much on Grass or
ffurses of w^{ch} they have y^e most, and it will make them very ffatt
being Little hardy horses, and as they jest on themselves do not Love
the taste of oates and hay, because they never permit them to know the
taste of it. But my horses Could not Live so, Especially on journeys, of
w^{ch} I had given them a pretty exercise, and their new oates and hay
suited not their stomach. I Could get noe Beanes for them till I Came
back to S^t Columbe againe w^{ch} from Truro by S^t Mitchel was 12 miles
mostly Lanes and Long miles. As I observed before I saw noe windmills
all these Countrys over, they have only the mills w^{ch} are overshott
and a Little rivulet of water you may step over turns them, w^{ch} are
the mills for Grinding their Corn and their ore or what Else. From S^t
Columbe I went to Way bridge 6 Long miles. There was a river w^{ch} was
flowed up by y^e tyde a Greate way up into the Land, it Came from y^e
north sea, it was broad, y^e bridge had 17 arches.
Thence to Comblefford over steep hills 9 mile more, some of this way was
over Commons of Black moorish Ground full of Sloughs. The Lanes are
deffended w^{th} bancks wherein are stones, some Great rocks, others
slaty stones, such as they use for tileing. Comblefford was a Little
market town but it was very indifferent accomodations, but the raines
y^t night and next morning made me take up there till about 10 oClock in
the morning; it then made a shew of Cleering up made me willing to seek
a better Lodging. 2 mile from this place is a Large standing water
Called Dosenmere poole in a Black moorish Ground and is fed by no rivers
except the Little rivulets from some high hills yet seemes allwayes full
w^{th} out Diminution and flows w^{th} y^e wind and is stored with good
ffish, and people Living near it take y^e pleasure in a boate to goe
about it. There is alsoe good wildfowle about it; it seemes so be such a
water as the mer at Whitlesome in Huntingtonshire by Stilton its fresh
water and what supply it has must be the rivulets y^e must Come from y^e
south sea being that wayward towards Plymouth. As I travelled I Came in
sight of a great mountaine esteemed the second highest hill in England
supposeing y^e account Black Combe in Cumberland y^e first, but really I
have seen soe many Great and high hills I Cannot attribute preeminence
to Either of these tho’ this did Look very Great and tall, but I thinke
its better said the highest hill in each County.
I travelled 4 pretty Long miles much in Lanes and then Came into a
Common where I Cross’d the Great roads w^{ch} on the Right hand Leads a
way to Plymouth and the south sea, the Left hand to Bastable and the
north sea, w^{ch} Conveys the stone or rather marble w^{ch} they take
from hence at Bole, remarkable Quarrys for a Black stone, Exceeding hard
and Glossy Like marble, very Dureable for pavements. This they send to
all parts in tyme of peace and London takes off much of it.
Here I Rode over a Common or Down 4 mile Long in sight of y^e North sea
and saw Hartly poynt which is the Earle of Baths just by his fine house
Called Stow, his fine stables of horses, and Gardens. There I discern’d
the Poynt very plaine and just by I saw the jsle of Lundy which formerly
belonged to my Grandfather William Lord viscount Say and Seale, w^{ch}
does abound with ffish and Rabbets and all sorts of ffowles, one bird
y^t Lives partly in the water and partly out and so may be Called an
amphibious Creature, its true that one foote is Like a turky the other a
gooses foote; it Lays its Egg in a place the Sun shines on and sets it
so exactly upright on the small End and there it remaines till taken up
and all the art and skill of persons Cannot set it up soe againe to
abide. Here I met with some showers w^{ch} by fitts or storms held
me,—to Lanston 4 mile more, these 12 mile from Cambleford was not Little
ones and what with the wet and Dirty Lanes in many places I made it a
tedious journey. I Could see none of the town till just I was as you may
say ready to tumble into it, there being a vast steep to descend to when
the town seemed in a bottom yet I was forced to ascend a pretty good
hill into the place. Lanston is the chief town in Cornwall where the
assizes are kept, I should have remarked at y^e Lands End that Pensands
was the Last Corporation in England, soe this is one of y^e Last Great
towns tho’ noe Citty, for Cornwall is in y^e Diocese of Devonshire
w^{ch} is Exeter.
There is a Great ascent up into the Castle w^{ch} Looks very Great and
in good repaire the walls and towers round it, its true there is but a
part of it remaines, the round tower or fort being still standing and
makes a good appearance. The town is Encompass’d w^{th} walls and gates,
its’ pretty Large tho’ you Cannot discover the whole town, being up and
down in so many hills. The streetes themselves are very steep unless it
be at the market place where is a Long and handsome space set on stone
pillars w^{th} the town hall on the top, w^{ch} has a Large Lanthorne or
Cupilo in the middle, where hangs a bell for a Clock with a Dyal to the
streete. There is in this place 2 or 3 good houses built after the
London form by some Lawyers, Else the whole town is old houses of timber
work. At a Little distance from the town on a high hill I Looked back
and had the full prospect of the whole town which was of a pretty Large
extent. A mile beyond I crossed on a stone bridge over a river and
Entred into Devonshire againe, and pass’d through mostly Lanes w^{ch}
were stony and dirty by reason of y^e raines y^t ffell the night before,
and this day, which was the wettest day I had in all my summers
travells, hitherto having had noe more than a shower in a day and that
not above 3 tymes in all except when I Came to Exeter. As I Came down
from Taunton there was small raine most of the afternoon but this day
was much worse, so that by that tyme I Came through Lanes and some
Commons to Oakingham w^{ch} was 15 mile I was very wet. This was a
Little market town and I met with a very good Inn and accomodation, very
good Chamber and bed and Came in by 5 of the Clock, so had good tyme to
take off my wet Cloathes and be well dryed and warme to eate my supper,
and rested very well without sustaining y^e Least damage by the wet. I
should have Remark’d that these roads were much up and down hill thro’
enclosed Lands and woods in y^e same manner the other part of Cornwall
and Devonshire was, gaineing by degrees the upper Grounds by one hill to
another and soe descending them in Like manner. These raines fully
Convinced me of y^e need of so many Great stone Bridges whose arches
were soe high that I have wonder’d at it because the waters seemed
shallow streames, but they were so swelled by one night and dayes raine
y^t they Came up pretty near the arches and ran in most places w^{th}
such rapidity and Look’d so thick and troubled as if they would Clear
all before them. This Causes Great floods, and the Lower Grounds are
overwhelm’d for a season after such raines, so that had I not put on and
gotten beyond Lanston that day there would have been noe moveing for me
till the flouds w^{ch} hourly encreased were run off.
Next day I went to Cochen Well 10 mile, mostly good open way except a
hill or two w^{ch} were steep and stony, tho’ this was the Longer way
and about, yet by reason of y^e former raines it was the safest, for y^e
Lower way was run over by the waters w^{ch} are Land flouds from the
swelling Brookes, w^{ch} are up in a few hours and are sunck in the same
tyme againe—the wayes were somewhat Dirty. Thence to Exeter 10 mile
more, but this was the basest way you Can goe and made much worse by
these raines, but its narrow Lanes full of stones and Loose ground,
Clay, and now exceeding Slippery by the raines.
A quarter of a mile on this side of the town I stood on a high banck
from whence the prospect of y^e Citty of Exeter was very pleasant, Could
see it to great advantage, y^e Cathedrall and other Churches Spires
w^{th} y^e whole town, w^{ch} in generall is well built, w^{th} y^e good
Bridge over y^e Ex, w^{ch} is a fine river on whose Banckes are severall
Rows of trees all below the town. The walks all about it augments the
beauty of y^e Citty. From whence I went to Topsham 3 miles which is a
Little market place and a very good Key; hither they Convey on horses
their Serges and soe Load their shipps w^{ch} Comes to this place, all
for London. Thence I saw Starre Cross where the Great shipps Ride and
there they build some shipps. This was up the river, 5 or 6 miles up y^e
river, but the tide being out Could not goe and it was ten mile by Land
and their miles are soe Long here I would not goe it seing almost as
well the shipps y^t Lay there as if at the place.
Thence I returned to Exeter 3 mile where I had been very Kindly
Entertained by M^r Goswill and his wife, w^{ch} was one my broth^r S^r
Edmond Harrison did Employ in Buying Serges. From Exeter I went to
Honiton 15 mile, all fine Gravell way, y^e best Road I have met with all
in the west. Here it is they make the fine bone lace in imitation of the
Antwerp and Flanders Lace and jndeed I think its as fine—it only will
not wash so fine, w^{ch} must be the fault in y^e thread. Honiton is a
pretty large place, a good market house, near it a good Church w^{th} a
round tower and spire w^{ch} was very high and a Little peculiar in its
forme, somewhat Like a Pigeon house Rooffe. Here is a very Large
meeteing of Descenters. Thence I went to Axminster 7 mile more, but not
soe good way being much in Lanes stony and Dirty and pretty much up and
down hills, Like y^e other parts of those Countrys.
Beyond Axminster where I passed over the river Ax on a pretty Large
Bridge I Came to Somersetshire againe. This Axminster is a Little market
town and the London Road by Chard, but I struck out of that road 2 mile
off the town to Liegh w^{ch} was 4 mile from Axminster, to a Relations
house M^r Hendlys, w^{ch} stands on a hill, but its such an Enclosed
Country and narrow Lanes you Cannot see a Bow shott before you, and such
up and down steep hills. Its an old house, and Large Court w^{th} open
gates that enter you into a passage, on the Right hand a good Parlour
new wanscoated, next that a Kitchen and pantrys Leads into a Court where
all the offices are and stable and Coach houses. On the Left side of y^e
passage at y^e Entrance is a Large old hall w^{th} a Great halfe pace at
y^e upper End w^{th} 2 Chimneys in the hall. This Leades into a passage
on the Left hand and so through to another parlour w^{th} good old
fashion Carved wanscoat. The roomes are low, out of y^e passage Leads up
a paire of staires to 3 or 4 roomes all Low and but one well furnished;
then out of same passage below is a doore into the Gardens w^{ch} are
one Lower than the other with stone stepps, its Capable of being very
handsome if made with open Grates to set one out to see y^e orchards and
woods beyond. They were a turffing y^e walks and makeing banks in order
to it. Y^e house alsoe is Capable of alteration to a good house if the
windows were made Lower and y^e roomes fitted w^{th} wanscoate and good
ffurniture. Just to the front there is design’d a visto to be Cut thro’
the wood to the water side w^{ch} will be very fine being on a descent.
About a mile from hence is one M^r Preadneas house, a fine old house and
well furnished but they permit none to see it, soe I saw it not only
drove by it to see my Cozens Little Girle at nurse and soe returned home
againe a mile, and then from Liegh I went through narrow stony Lanes up
hills and down, w^{ch} steeps Causes the water on raines to trill down
on the Low ground that for a few hours or a day there will be noe
passing in y^e bottom, w^{ch} happen’d while I was at Liegh; one nights
Raine put the Cattle in the meddows swimming and hindred us from going
to Church, the water would have Came over the windows of the Coach.
These stony Lanes I passed till I Came to the Great road which Comes
from Lime, here I Entred into Dorsetshire and soe went through a Little
town Called Maiden Newton eight mile more, and soe thence to Dorchester
town 6 mile more; all a fine hard Gravel way and much on the downs—this
is good Ground and Much for sheep. Thence I went to Blandford 12 Long
miles thro’ Piddletown Milborn and WhitChurch. There I staid with my
relation Cos’n Collier, Husys and Ffussells, thence to Salisbury 18
mile. When I had passed 6 mile I Came through a Gate w^{ch} brought me
into Wiltshire and soe over y^e downs to Salisbury and from thence to
Newtontony 7 miles.
I went from Newtontony to Sarum and home againe 3 tymes w^{ch} made it
42 miles in all, then to Wallop 4 miles and home again 4 miles, and to
Grattly twice and back againe 12 mile, and to Cholderton twice 4 miles,
to Allington and home 2 mile more, then to London.
From Newtontony to Winchester 15 mile, there I went to see a Relation
M^{rs} Horne thence Alsford 8 mile. The Little raines I had in the
morning before I Left Newtontony made the wayes very slippery, and it
being mostly on Chaulk way a Little before I Came to Alsford forceing my
horse out of the hollow way his feete failed and he Could noe wayes
recover himself, and soe I was shott off his neck upon the Bank, but noe
harm I bless God and as soone as he Could role himself up stood stock
still by me, which I Looked on as a Great mercy—indeed mercy and truth
all wayes have attended me. The next day I went to Alton 10 miles thence
Ffarnum 9 miles more. This proved a very wet day, after an hours Rideing
in the morning it never Ceased more or Less to raine, w^{ch} made me put
in at Ffarnum and stay all the day after I Came in at noone. But then it
began to raine much faster and soe Continued. Thence next day I went
over the fforest in sight of Ffairly Castle w^{ch} is the Bishop of
Winchesters pallace, it Lookes nobly on a hill, thence to Bagshott 9
miles, thence to Winsor over the fforest 7 Long miles, this way most
Clay deep way, the worse by reason of y^e raines and full of Sloughs.
About a mile off Windsor Castle appeares standing on a hill much after
the manner of Durham w^{th} y^e walls and battlements round, only that
is all stone and this is but partly soe and y^e rest Brick plaister’d
over in imitation of stones w^{ch} does not Look so well. It is a pretty
great ascent to y^e town w^{ch} is well built, something suitable to
London by reason of its affinity to y^e Court, and I saw the Cathedrall
or S^t Georges Church w^{ch} is very fine built all stone and Carved on
y^e outside, severall Cloysters Leads to the Doctors houses—its a Lofty
noble building. The quire is properly S^t Georges Chappel whose Rooff is
very high and Carved very Curiously, all free stone, so is the rest of
y^e Church. There hangs up y^e Banners and Ensignes of honour belonging
to y^e Severall Knights of the honourable order of y^e blew garter,
their Complement is 26, there was one void at this tyme by the Death of
y^e Earle of Peterborough. There is a Greate Cerimony in their
Inauguration, their seates are of Wanscoate Carved which are all quite
round the quire, w^{th} Each Garters and Coate armours and banners on
the top, and when they are jnstalled. their Garments are blew velvet, in
shape Like the Coapes, Lined w^{th} white Sattin or silk, that and their
blew Garter in which hangs a George on horseback besett w^{th} jewels
and a Diamond Garter put on their Right Leg, which is performed by 2 of
y^e former Knights of the order, which is given them by the King that is
the Principal of y^t order. Then they have an oath Given them to
maintain the Rights and Cerimonyes of said order and soe are seated in
their seates. There are Great fees paid by each new Knight to y^e
officers to the poore Knights of Windsor, whose seates are just under
y^e Seates of the Knights of y^e Garter, 18 poore Knights of Windsor
w^{ch} have houses provided for them about the Cloyster and 48^£ p^r
annum each besides their perquisits at such tymes. There are alsoe 18
singing men and petty Cannons, those that are preachers has houses and
30^{lb} p^r annum each, but the others have but 22^{lb} each a yeare and
houses to Live in. These all have their ffees at the jnstalment of Each
Knight of the Garter and of this order are severall Princes and Great
men both here and in forreign Parts.
There is a very Large fine organ at y^e Entrance of the Quire, the alter
is Crimson velvet striped w^{th} Gold tissue, Large Candlesticks and
Basons Gilt. At the jnstallment there is a Great deale of plaite set out
w^{ch} belongs to the Chappel. Over the alter is a painting of Christ
and his twelve apostles at y^e passover supper very naturally drawn, and
over it a Large window full of fine paintings—the history of the
testaments. Y^e Quire is paved all with black and white marble under
which is a Large vault for y^e Royal family. There Lyes King Henry y^e
8^{th} and King Charles the first &c. There is in the Church a tombe and
vault of y^e Duke of Norfolks familly w^{th} steele Carvings all about
it very Curious, and to add to its variety it may be all taken piece by
piece and put up in a box, its a very Large thing and great variety of
work—this is on the Right side of the alter.
There is in a Little Chappel by, a very fine monument with two Large
Statues in alabast^r Painted and gilt all at Length in their garments,
and round the tomb stone are the Statues of their Children, 7 daughters,
four of them were twinns and soe represented being put together, and 3
sonnes, all alabaster, and there is a role of matt under the head of the
Lord and Lady that was so naturall, Looked like real Matt. This was Lord
Earle Lincolns tomb. There is another monument of the Earle of Rutlands,
the first of the family w^{ch} was Earle 100 year since, it was in the
yeare ano: Dom: 1513: there is round that 6 Sonns and six Daughters with
Carvings of other Images holding their Coates of armes. There is another
monument w^{ch} is of y^e old Duke off Beaufort who was base son to King
Edward the 4^{th}, and therefore there is a barr of reproach aCross the
English arms w^{ch} he bears. There is another statue of white marble in
a Leaneing posture almost Lyeing quite along and they say its very Like
his Effigie—this was the Bishop of Chichester. There is another Bishops
Effigie in y^e wall just to y^e waste of alabaster. There is a Chappel
in w^{ch} are prayers at 8 of y^e Clock at night. There is a white
marble ffont. The rooff of the quire is very Curious, Carv’d stone and
soe thinn to y^e Leads one might grasp it between thumb and finger, and
yet so well fixt as to be very strong. From thence I proceeded on to y^e
Castle w^{ch} is the finest pallace y^e King has Especially now White
hall is burnt; but that was old buildings and unless it were the
banqueting house and the apartment which our good Queen Mary beautifyed
for herself that was never soe well as Winsor. You Enter in through a
gate; on the right hand is a tower which is built w^{th} Redouts and
walks round it as was Durham Castle. Its 120 stepps up where is the
Guard roome hung with armes, thence a Dineing roome, the Duke of
Norfolks appartment, a Drawing roome and two bed Chambers, one w^{th} a
half bedstead as the new mode, dimity w^{th} fine shades of worstead
works well made up—there are good Pictures. The next roome has such a
bed but that is fine Indian quilting and Embroidery of silk. The tower
on the Leads is as many stepps more, I walked round it and Could see a
Great prospect of the whole town and Winsor fforest and the Country
round to Kensington, I Could see Lord of Hollands house and Rowes of
trees, and to Harrow of the hill, and to Shooters hill beyond London,
and the town of Winsor Looked very well. There were severall noblemens
houses, Duke S^t Albans and fine Gardens, Just by it is the Lord
Guidolphins house and Gardens; there I Could see the fine walk or rather
Road planted with trees of a huge length into y^e fforest, w^{ch} King
Charles made for his going out in Diversion of shooteing, and here I
could see y^e river Thames w^{ch} twists and turns itself round y^e
meddowes and Grounds. Upon this tower w^{ch} is most tymes moist, all in
the walls grows y^e best maiden haire both white and black, w^{ch} is an
herb much esteemed for Coughs and to put into Drinks for consumption.
Thence I proceeded on to a Large Court Like the Quaderangle at Christ
Church College in Oxford, or Trinity in Cambridge, in the middle of
which is a statue of King Charles y^e Second on horseback all of brass,
and is railed in w^{th} Iron spikes; round this Court are the Buildings
w^{ch} are y^e severall appartments of the Lords of y^e bed Chamber, and
the Ladies; also one side is the Lodgings belonging to the princess Ann
of Denmarke w^{ch} are all of stone and well built and beautifyed. In
the middle you Enter a Large pair of jron gates finely Carv’d into a
paved Large space supported w^{th} several rows of Stone Pillars, and
ascending up Large Staires, which Enters you into the Queens Guard
Chamber hung full of armoury, w^{ch} is so Exactly set, the Pikes set up
like Pillars and such distances, y^e muskets Laid a long one above the
other y^e boxes for y^e powder, and the Edge of y^e Cornish is Pistols
set as thick as they can be set, and above it are drums and helmets and
back and breast armour. The Chimney piece is of y^e same; swords in the
middle, there poynts turned outward, with a round of Little Pistolls set
Close in quarter Circle; its all exactly uniforme and very handsome.
Next into a noble Hall w^{ch} has very fine paintings, this is the
Standard for Curiosity in all places you see painting, its done by the
same hand did the paintings att Winsor. The top is full of all sort of
varietys, in the middle is King Charles’s Picture, y^e sides are all
descriptions of Battles, and between Each Picture in the Pillars is y^e
George and Blew garter and Starre, at y^e upper End is the Large Picture
of S^t George Encountering y^e dragon and at the Lower End is y^e
picture of y^e King that first Instituted this order of the Blew garter,
and in putting it on himself on his son, who was just returned victor
from some Considerable Battle. I should have noted in my Remarks of the
Cerimonies of that order that when any Dies and a Garter Drops they make
a solemn offering up of all their Ensignes of honour to y^e Church and
then take them down and pay some ffees as well as at their Entrance into
it. From this roome I Entred into y^e Chappel under the gallery or
Closet the King and Queen sets in at prayers, this was supported by four
Brass Gyants or Else painted Like Brass. This seate of y^e Kings Lookes
into y^e Chappel, its Crimson velvet, all the jnside and Cannopy w^{th}
y^e Cloth w^{ch} hung over it all alike Richly Embroyder’d with Gold
fring. This is the house Chappel and is Exceeding beautifull, y^e
paintings of the rooffe and the sides which is y^e history of Christs
miracles his Life and the good he did in healing all distemper, w^{ch}
are described at Large here and Lookes very Lively. There is alsoe the
most Exactest workmanship in y^e wood Carving, which is as the painting
the pattern and masterpiece of all such work, both in ffigures,
fruitages, beasts, birds, fflowers, all sorts, soe thinn y^e wood, and
all white natural wood without varnish. This adorns the Pillars and void
spaces between the paintings, here is as Great qualiety so much for
Quantety. There was a pretty alter at y^e upper End and two gallerys for
y^e musick.
Thence I went up staires into a Large dineing roome, Damaske Chaires and
window Curtaines, wanscoated, and severall fine pictures. The Rooffe of
this was well painted also, but they are soe Lofty its enough to Breake
ones neck to Looke on them. Thence into a Gallery full of Pictures
w^{th} a Large Looking Glass at y^e End. Thence into y^e Drawing roome
where is the Large Branch of silver, and y^e sconces round y^e roome of
silver, silver table, and stands, and Glass frames, and Chaire frames.
Next is y^e queenes Chamber of state, all Indian Embroidery on white
Sattin being presented to her by y^e Comp^y. On it is Great Plumes of
white ffeathers, there is very good tapistry hangings full of gold and
silver, but they are Large old ffigures. Here’s a silver table, and
stands, and Glass fframe. There was a raile set a Cross at y^e beds
ffeete w^{ch} reached Each side of y^e roome, made of sweate wood frames
and open Wires in y^e middle, and was to be Doubled together in Leaves
as a screen: this was instead of y^e raile use to be quite round y^e
King and queens beds to keep off Companyes Coming near them.
Thence into an anti-roome through a Little Gallery or passage, thence
into y^e Kings dressing roome almost all Glass; y^e Chimney piece is
full of Great stone heads in nitches or hollows made for them, of some
Emperours. Y^e windows of all y^e roomes are Large sashes as big as a
good Looking-glass and are all diamond Cut round the Edges, the height
of y^e windows makes them Looke narrow. Thence into the kings Constant
bed Chamber, being one of y^e halfe bedsteads of Crimson and Green
damaske, jnside and outside the same hangings, and Chaires and window
Curtaines the same; it was Lofty and full with good ffringe, and there
was such another screen or raile at y^e ffeete of the bed that tooke y^e
Length of the roome as in the queens Chamber; here was tables, stands,
Glass frames, Gilt gold, fine Carving on the Chimney pieces, both here
and in y^e queens’ appartment. Y^e next was ye Chamber of State w^{ch}
is noble. Indeed, very Lofty and painted on y^e roofe as they all are.
The bed was green velvet Strip’d down very thick with Gold orrice Lace
of my hands breadth, and round the bottom 3 such orrices and Gold ffring
all round it and gold tassels; so was the Cornish. The jnside was y^e
same, at the head piece was Like Curtaines ffringed round w^{th} gold
and tyed back w^{th} Gold strings and tassells as it were tyed back and
soe hung down in the middle, where was the Crown and sypher Embroyder’d;
the hangings y^e same and such another screen aCrosse the roome to
secure the bed from y^e Common. Next this is the drawing roome of state,
the Cannopy and throne and y^e part behind is all green velvet Richly
Embroyder’d with silver and Gold, of high Emboss’d work, and some
Curiously wrought Like needlework that you Can scarce see y^e Ground or
stuff its wrought on, and the Crown of Crimson velvet Embroyder’d just
over the Chaire or throne of state; the ffoot-stoole the same, w^{ch}
was all set on a half pace or part raised above y^e rest as the manner
is, with, a fine Carpet over it. The Cannopy was so rich and Curled up
and in some places soe ffull it Looked very Glorious, and was newly made
to give audience to the Ffrench Embassadour to shew y^e Grandeur and
magnificence of the British Monarch—some of these ffoolerys are
requisite sometymes to Create admiration and regard to keep up the state
of a kingdom and nation.
Thence I went into the Common audience roome, where was a throne on such
a raised space w^{th} a Carpet. This throne and Canopy and y^e back with
Stooles and Chaires was Crimson and Gold Coullour’d ffigured velvet. Out
of this I Came into a Large roome for people to wait in, painted with
black and white and gold—Description of some ffights and men in armour.
Thence into the Kings Guard Chamber w^{ch} is deckt as the Queens, the
walls being adorned w^{th} y^e severall armes put in Exact order, only
in y^e pillars or spaces here they hang the Bandaleers which holds their
powder. In the mantle piece there was noe difference, but in y^e middle
was the starre and soe set about with y^e pistols and swords. Thence I
descended Large staires of stone, and soe through a Court back to y^e
walk of pillars, and soe through the Large jron gate into the Courts one
without another all built round.
Winsor town Lookes well, the streetes Large, the Market Cross on stone
pillars and a Large hall on the top; from thence the streete runs along
to y^e Bridge over the Thames and there you Enter Buckinghamshire and a
quarter of a mile off, tho’ jndeed there is building all along. There is
Eaton Colledge a good stone building Carved on y^e outside, its round a
square. There is at the ffront a Large schoole roome—400 schollars and 8
fellows w^{ch} have 400 a piece yearely. Y^e master has 1000^£, he payes
all the ushers, in number seven; there is alsoe an under master for the
Little schollars, this was ffounded by King Edward the Confessour and
Endowed so richly by him, and on the same ffoundation is the revenues of
y^e Cathedrall and y^e poore knights w^{ch} goe in a peculiar black gown
like fryers. All their salleryes and y^e repaire of the Cathedrall is
taken Care of by y^e same ffoundation, w^{th} y^e Colledge, not but
there is a Little Chappel to y^e Colledge w^{th} in itself for Every
dayes prayers. The Chappel and schoole room takes up two sides of the
square, the two others is the Lodging for y^e ffellows and for y^e
schollars; then y^e middle there is an arch w^{ch} Leads to y^e Cloyster
and soe into their kitchen and Cellars which are very Convenient and
high but pretty old. Just by is the great Hall in w^{ch} they eate, the
schollars and fellows and masters should eate with them. This is the
same ffoundation as Kings Colledge in Cambridge so y^t those schollers
that are fitt to be removed to y^e University at y^e Election are sped
to Kings Colledge in Cambridge and so are advanced as they Can get
friends into ffellowshipps to Either. Ffrom Windsor I went to y^e fferry
3 mile and Rode in sight of y^e Castle on this side w^{ch} is all y^e K:
and Q: appartments and Lookes very noble, y^e walls round w^{th} y^e
battlements, and Gilt balls and other adornments. Here I fferry over y^e
Thames and so went a nearer way which is a private road Made for y^e
kings Coaches and so to Colebrooke 3 mile more. Thence to
Houndslow-heath and so to London 12 mile more, then I went to
Bednallgreen 4 miles and home againe 4 mile more, and here ends my Long
journey this summer in w^{ch} I had but 3 dayes of wet except some
refreshing showers sometymes, and I thinke y^t was not above 4 in all
the way and it was in all above 1551 miles and many of them Long miles,
in all which way and tyme I desire w^{th} thankfullness to own y^e good
providence of God protecting me from all hazard or dangerous accident.
It Cannot be thought amiss here to add some remarke on y^e metropolis of
England. London whose scituation on so noble a river as the Thames
w^{ch} Emptyes it at y^e Boy of y^e Nore, being there joyned w^{th} y^e
Medway another very fine river alsoe, and falls there into y^e sea
w^{ch} is about 30 miles from London, and is an Ebbing flowing river as
farre as Sheen beyond London. This is very Comodious for shipps w^{ch}
did Come up just to y^e bridge, but from Carelessness y^e river is
Choaked up, that obliges y^e shipps to Come to an anchor at Blackwall.
All along this river are severall docks for building shipps of y^e
biggest burden; six miles from the town y^e Last yeare was built y^e
Royal Souveraign w^{ch} is our greatest ship. London joyned w^{th}
Westminster, which are two great Cittyes but now w^{th} building so
joyned it makes up but one vast building with all its Subburbs, and has
in y^e walls ninety seven Parishes, without y^e walls 16 parishes, 15
subburbs, Surrey, Middlesex, 7 parishes in Westminster.
London is y^e Citty properly for trade, Westminster for y^e Court, y^e
first is divided into 24 wards to each which there is an alderman, and
themselves Consist of Common Council men and all freemen of the Citty,
and have power to Choose these aldermen and make their own orders and to
maintain their own priviledges. All freemen or Livery men of this Citty
hath a Right to Choose their sherriffs of w^{ch} Every yeare there is
two, one for Middlesex y^e other y^e Corporation, but both are joyned
and officiate together in all matters of juries justice or Ceremonies,
and to maintaine all Rights. These freemen alsoe have their voyce in
Choice of their Lord Major w^{ch} is done Every yeare with this
Sollemnity, the Sheriffs being Chosen and sworne at Mid summer, y^e
Michaelmas after y^e Lord Major is Chosen and sworne; y^e evening before
which is Simon and Judes day is a feast Called Calveshead feast. Next
day y^e old Lord Major Comes to meete y^e new one and w^{th} him on his
Left hand is Conducted on horse back in all their gowns of scarlet Cloth
Lined w^{th} ffurr; all y^e aldermen in Like Robes only differenc’d as
their station, those of them w^{ch} have been Lord Majors weare a Gold
Chaine Ever after, but those y^t have not passed y^e Chaire weare none.
Y^e Lord Major is allwayes one of y^e aldermen and he has a great gold
Chaine round his neck, the Sheriffs also weare a gold Chaine round their
neck y^t yeare. Thus on horseback they proceed two and two w^{th} all
their officers. Y^e Lord Major has his Sword bearer w^{ch} walkes before
him w^{th} the Sword in an Embroyder’d Sheath he weares a Great velvet
Cap of Crimson, the bottom and y^e top of ffurr or such Like standing up
Like a turbant or Great bowle in forme of a Great open Pye, this is
Called y^e Cap of Maintenance. This is y^e Lord Majors Chiefe officer,
he holds his place Dureing his Life and has 1500 a yeare allowed him for
his table w^{ch} in all things is as good as Lord Major’s and he
Entertaines all people at it, yet he himself must officiate at the Lord
Majors table to see all things in order and Comes in at sett tymes
accordingly to performe them and bring y^e Lord Majors Compliments to
y^e Campanyes. He thus walkes before the Lord Mayor w^{th} y^e water
Bayliff beareing a Gold Mace &c. At Fleete ditch they Enter y^e Barges
w^{ch} are all very Curiously adorned and thus he is Conducted y^e river
being full of Barges belonging to y^e severall Companyes of London,
adorned with streamers and their armes and fine musick, and have sack to
drinke and Little Cakes as bigg as a Crown piece. They Come to
Westminster staires where they Land and are Conducted, the Lord Majors
traines being borne up as well y^e old as new Lord Major, they Enter
Westminster Hall and are Conducted to y^e severall Courts of justice
where there is severall Ceremonyes perform’d. The new Lord Major is
presented to y^e King or those deputed to act under him and then is
sworne, all which being over they are Conducted back to their Barges and
soe to y^e staires they took barge, where they are received by some of
y^e nobility deputed by the king who make some Little speech of
Compliment and Give y^e Lord Major and aldermen a treate of wine and
sweet meates passant. They mount on horseback and returne only y^e new
Lord Major takes y^e right hand and haveing by y^e sheriffs invited y^e
King and Court to dinner, w^{ch} sometymes they accept but mostly
refuse, because it puts the Citty to a vast Charge; they being then
Conducted through y^e Citty w^{th} Greate acclamations their own habits
and trappings of their horses being very fine, and they haveing all the
Severall Companyes of y^e Citty w^{ch} walke in their order and gowns
w^{th} pagents to most or many of their Companyes, w^{ch} are a sort of
Stages Covered and Carryed by men and on y^e top many men and boys
acting y^e respective trades or Employ^{ts} of Each Company, some in
shipps for y^e Merch^{ts} and whatever Company the new Lord major is off
his pageant is y^e finest and y^t Company has y^e precedency that yeare
of all y^e Companyes Except y^e mercers Company, w^{ch} allwayes is the
first and Esteemed y^e Greatest, and when there is a Lord Major of y^t
Company their pageant is a maiden queen on a throne Crowned and with
Royal Robes and scepter and most richly dressed, w^{th} Severall Ladyes
dressed, her attendants, all on y^e same pageant and w^{th} a Cannopy
over her head and drawn in an open Chariot w^{th} 9 horses very finely
accouter’d and pages that Ride them all, w^{th} plumes of feathers.
After being drawn through y^e Citty she is jnvited by y^e Lord major to
a dinner provided on purpose for her, and soe many Rich Batchelors are
appointed to Entertaine her that is a ranck among y^e freemen. She has
her traine bore up and is presented to Lady Majoris that salutes her as
doth the aldermens Ladyes, all w^{ch} are Conducted in their Coaches to
Guildhall. The new Lady Majoress Richly habitted has her traine borne
up, and Introduced by one of the officers. The Sheriffs Ladyes Likewise
weares gold Chaines that yeare, the Lady majoress does wear it ever
after as doe all y^e aldermens Ladyes whose husbands have been Lord
majors, and as I said before y^e Lord Majors must be aldermen and must
have served as sheriffs before, and allwayes y^e king Confers Knighthood
on the person that is Chosen to be Sheriff unless he were a knight
before.
In Guild Hall there are severall long tables plenty fully ffurnished
w^{th} all sorts of varietyes suiteable to the season, w^{th} fine
Desserts off sweetemeates, and jellys w^{ch} in Pyramidyes stand all y^e
tyme; the hott meate is brought in in first and second Courses. The Lord
Major and Lady Majoress sitt at the upper End but in Case the Court is
there then the Lord Major has one table, y^e Lady another, and y^e old
Lady Majoress is set at y^e Left hand of y^e new Lady, and the aldermens
Ladyes at her Right hand according to their senioritye, after which they
Retire into a Gallery where is danceing the whole Evening.
All this yeare Lord or Lady Majoress goe no where but w^{th} their
officers to attend them, and y^e old Lord Major and Lady Majoress has
their traines bore up to Guild Hall and after dinner return without it.
The whole affaires of y^e Citty are managed by y^e Lord Major and Court
of aldermen and Common Councill men, he is obliged to take care of
justice and Right, he does during his yeare jnvite Each Company w^{th}
all their Masters Wardens and officers twice—the Last tyme all their
wives alsoe—the Sherriffs doe y^e Like. Each person brings their Gift
two, three Guinneas, some more and according to their Gift at y^e Last
Entertainment they have a silver spoon double Gilt, Either weighing soe
many ounces and soe many as they Give Guinneas many tymes in the yeare:
those y^t would shew particular respect will go dine w^{th} them and
bring presents without haveing spoones.
All offices falling vacant in the Majoralty acruee to Lord Major to
dispose off. There are 24 Companyes w^{ch} have each severall officers,
as masters wardens &c., and doe meete to fix and maintaine their
priviledges. They doe walke at y^e Lord Majors day and make sumptuous
feasts at Each hall appertaineing to their Comp^y w^{ch} is at y^e
Charge of y^e masters and wardens w^{ch} are officers Chosen new Every
yeare. They have great stocks and Lands belonging to their Companyes
Common stock, and w^{ch} does maintaine schooles and Hospitalls and such
Like w^{ch} from tyme to tyme are Encreased by severall Benefactors and
Legacyes, some of w^{ch} are greate as in y^e Mercers Company which have
Lands to a great value for such Ends. There are severall feasts which
Lord Major and Sherriffs are absolutely obliged to make at their first
Entrance into their offices, two dayes following each other, and y^e
first day of y^e terme to all y^e judges, and 3 dayes at Easter going to
hear a sermon at S^t Brides Each day, and then to jnspect y^e severall
Charityes and hospitalls y^t all be kept in due order and provided for.
Y^e Lord Major and Sherriffs attends the King at all tymes to represent
y^e Publick affaires of y^e Citty and receive his orders, they alsoe
officiate at y^e proclaiming any new King or Queen or to Declare peace
or warr, w^{ch} is done in Greate solemnity by y^e King at Arms and
severall of y^e nobillity in Coaches or on horseback, and y^e officers
of y^e kings household.
King Williams return after y^e peace was Concluded w^{th} Ffrance and
y^e Confederates, the Kings Entry was in this manner, y^e Lord Major in
Crimson velvet Gown w^{th} a Long traine on horseback attended by all
his officers y^e sword bearer and water Baily very well dress’d. Y^e
Common hunt was Clad in Green velvet, thus with all y^e aldermen in
their scarlet gowns they proceeding to receive y^e King just at y^e End
of Southwark on y^e borders of Kent, the Lord Major Carrying a scepter
w^{th} a Crown of pearle on y^e top. Y^e King was attended thus, ffirst
of all his soldiers and officers marched in Ranke, y^e aldermen and Lord
Major and officers, then all y^e nobillity in their Coaches, the Bishops
and judges, then y^e first Coach of y^e King w^{th} his household, then
y^e guards of his body, and then the Coach where in y^e King was, w^{ch}
was a very rich and Costly thing all y^e fring Rich Gold, y^e Glass very
Large, the Standards and all outwork Like beaton Gold, drawn by 8 very
fine white horses with Massy Gold harness and trappings, the Ffrench
kings present to our king when the peace was concluded, y^e first
article of w^{ch} was owning King William king of England. After the
kings Coach a troope of guards de Corps, then the third Coach of y^e
Kings w^{th} his houshold, and other Coaches with Severall officers of
the houshold; then as the king passed Southwarke the Baily presented him
his mace, he returned it with y^e usuall Ceremony and Grattification;
then at y^e bridge y^e Lord Major demands his place and y^e sword,
w^{ch} is to March as Capt^n of y^e Kings guards just Imediately before
y^e kings own Coach, w^{ch} accordingly was given him and he returns the
said scepter to y^e proper officers who bear y^t and all y^e Maces
before him, and he bare headed beares y^e sword on horseback just before
the kings Coach. At y^e same tyme y^e water baily rides in the middle of
y^e guards as their officer and is on horseback, two men Like pages
Leading it, soe is Lord Majors in this order: they proceeding through
the Citty w^{ch} from y^e Royal Exchange on Each side had placed the
traine bands of the Citty with their officers, next them y^e 24
companyes of y^e Citty in their order and marks of their Honour and
priviledges, w^{ch} reached to y^e Conduite in Cheapside, all w^{ch}
paid their respective Homage and duty to y^e King who receiv’d it very
kind and obligeingly, as he did y^e Generall joy and acclamations w^{ch}
proceeded from thousands which were spectators. At Pauls Schoole y^e
Schollars made him a speech and then he was Conducted to his own pallace
at Whitehall. But before I leave the Citty of London I must describe its
Building and treasure. Y^e Government as I said was Lord Major,
aldermen, sherriffs, Recorder, and Chamberlaine, and other officers as
Common serjeant, and other sergeants, sword Bearers, water Bayly, Common
Cryer, and y^e town Clerke; all these with many other officers has
Considerable salleryes and Endure their Life, Except y^e Chamberlaine
thats annually Chosen tho’ mostly is in the same person againe. Those
others are in the Lord Majors dispose and brings a greate advantage to
him if any dye in his Majoralty. There is alsoe many Considerable
perquisitts belonging to him to support y^e honnour. The Citty plaite is
kept for Each, notwithstanding in y^e year it Costs them more many tymes
than they Receive, and in the whole I have had it from one y^t had been
at y^e charge said it was above 8000^£ in y^e year.
There is as I said great Publick Stock in the Citty by which they have
raised sumptuous Buildings, the Royal Exchange for one, a Large space of
Ground Enclosed round w^{th} Cloysters and open arches on w^{ch} are
built many walkes of Shopps of all trades. Y^e middle space below was
design’d and is used for the merchants to meete to Concert their
buisness and trade and bills, w^{ch} is all open and on y^e top of these
Piaza’s are y^e Effigies in stone of most of our kings and Queens since
y^e Conquest w^{ch} were anoynted Crowned heads, from whence this
Exchange takes its name Royal. In y^e midst of it stands in stone work
on a Pedestal y^e effigies of King Charles y^e second railed in w^{th}
Iron spikes. There is alsoe at y^e Bridge a Great Monument of stone
worke as is y^e Exchange; this is of a Great height 300 stepps up and on
y^e top gives y^e view of y^e whole town. This was sett up in memory of
Gods putting a Check to y^e Rageing flame w^{ch} by y^e plotts and
Contrivance of y^e papists was Lighted. There is a Large Inscription on
it all round mentioning it, and alsoe of y^e popish plott and y^e gun
powd^r treason and all by y^e papists.
The Bridge is a stately building all stone w^{th} 18 arches most of them
bigg Enough to admit a Large Barge to pass, its so broade that two
Coaches drives a breast, and there is on Each side houses and shopps
just Like any Large streete in y^e Citty, of w^{ch} there are many and
well built, Even and Lofty, most has 5 if not 6 degrees. Most of y^e
Halls belonging to Each Company are Large and Magnificent buildings, as
alsoe y^e Churches very fine and Lofty of stone work. Ye Greate
Cathedrall is S^t Pauls w^{ch} was a vast building but burnt by fire,
has since by y^e Citty been built up, or rather a tax on Coales w^{ch}
brings all to pay for it in London. It now is almost ffinish’d and very
magnificent, the Quire w^{th} Curious Carved work in wood, y^e arch
Bishops seate and y^e Bishop of Londons and Lord Majors is very finely
Carv’d and adorned, y^e alter alsoe with velvet and gold; on y^e Right
side is placed a Large Crimson velvet Elbow chaire w^{ch} is for the
Dean. This is all finished (w^{th} a sweet organ) but y^e body of y^e
Church w^{ch} is to be Closed on y^e top w^{th} a Large Cupilo is not
quite done. There was formerly in y^e Citty severall houses of y^e
Noblemens w^{th} Large gardens and out houses and Great attendances, but
of Late are pulled down and built into streetes and squares and Called
by y^e names of y^e noblemen, and this is the practise by almost all
even just to y^e Court Excepting one or two.
Northumberland and Bedford house, and Lord Mountagues house indeed has
been new built and is very fine, one roome in y^e middle of y^e building
is of a surpriseing height Curiously painted and very Large, yet soe
Contrived y^t speake very Low to y^e wall or wanscoate in one Corner and
it should be heard w^{th} advantage in y^e very opposite Corner
aCross—this I heard Myself. And this Leads me to y^e Citty of
Westminster in w^{ch} are many of these noblemens houses built into very
fine squares. Y^e kings pallace was a most magnificent building all of
freestone, w^{th} appartments suiteable to y^e Court of a King, in
w^{ch} was a Large roome Called the Banqueting-roome w^{ch} was fitted
for and used in all Publick solemnityes and audiences of ambassadours
&c. This is y^e only thing Left of y^e vast building which by accident
or Carelessness, if not designe, has Laid it in ashes together w^{th}
Exceeding Rich furniture of antiquity, as alsoe y^e greate and good
Queen Mary’s Closet and Curious treasures. This has all along y^e
prospect of y^e Thames on one side and a Large parke on y^e other,
walled in, which is full of very fine walkes and rowes of trees, ponds
and Curious birds Deer, and some fine Cows. In this parke stands another
pallace S^t James, w^{ch} is very well and was built for some of y^e
Royal Familly as y^e Duke of Yorke or Prince of Wales. There is at
Whitehall in y^e privy Garden a Large pond w^{th} a spout of water of a
vast height. This of S^t James is Little but daily building adding may
make it greate.
There is alsoe one Nobleman’s house, is this Parke House w^{ch} is a
very Curious Building. Just by this parke you Enter another Much Larger,
Hide-parke, w^{ch} is for Rideing on horseback but mostly for y^e
Coaches, there being a ring railed in round w^{ch} a Gravel way y^t
would admitt of twelve if not more rowes of Coaches, w^{ch} y^e Gentry
to take y^e aire and see each other Comes and drives round and round;
one row going Contrary to each other affords a pleaseing diversion. The
rest of y^e parke is green and full of deer, there are Large ponds
w^{th} fish and fowle. Y^e whole Length of this parke there is a high
Causey of a good breadth, 3 Coaches may pass and on Each side are Rowes
of posts on w^{ch} are Glasses—Cases for Lamps w^{ch} are Lighted in y^e
Evening and appeares very fine as well as safe for y^e passenger. This
is only a private roade y^e king had w^{ch} reaches to Kensington, where
for aire our Great King W^m bought a house and filled it for a
Retirement w^{th} pretty gardens. Besides these y^e king has a pallace
in y^e Strand w^{th} fine gardens all to y^e Thames river, this
appertaines to y^e Queen Dowager while she Lives. In this place was y^t
cruel Barbarous Murder of S^r Edmund Berry Godfrey by y^e papists.
Westminster is remarkable for haveing in it y^e ancient Large abbey
w^{ch} is a most magnificent Building of stone finely Graved, and within
is adorned w^{th} severall monuments of our Kings and Queens and great
personages.
In Harry y^e sevenths Chapple Layes our Great and good as well as Ever
Glorious King William, and Queen Mary his Royal Consort and joinctly on
y^e throne of these kingdoms, whome noe tyme Can ever obliterate y^e
memory off, their being Englands deliverers in Gods hands from popery
and slavery w^{ch} King James by y^e King of Frances power was involving
us in. This abby alsoe is y^e place where y^e sollemnityes of the Kings
interrments and Corronations are performed of which shall give a
perticular.
At y^e Death of a Prince which I have been a mournfull spectator or
hearer of two of y^e most Renowned y^t ever was, King William and queen
Marys, the Queen Dying before the king he ommitted noe Ceremony of
Respect to her memory and remains w^{ch} Lay in State in Whitehall in a
bed of Purple velvet all open, the Cannopy y^e same w^{th} Rich gold
fring, y^e middle being y^e armes of England Curiously painted and Gilt,
y^e head piece Embroyder’d Richly w^{th} a Crown and Cyphers of her
name, a Cusheon of purple velvet at y^e head on w^{ch} was y^e Imperiall
Crown and Scepter and Globe, and at y^e feete another such a Cusheon
w^{th} y^e sword and Gauntlets on the Corps w^{ch} was rowled in Lead,
and over it a Coffin Cover’d w^{th} purple velvet w^{th} the Crown, and
Gilt in Moldings very Curious. A Pall on all of a very Rich tissue of
gold and silver, Ruffled round about w^{th} purple velvet w^{ch} hung
down on y^e ground, w^{ch} was a halfe pace railed as y^e manner of the
Princes beds are. This in a roome hung w^{th} purple velvet full of
Large wax tapers, and at y^e 4 Corners of the bed stood 4 of y^e Ladyes
of y^e bed Chamber—Countesses—w^{th} vailes; these were at severall
tymes relieved by others of y^e same. Y^e anty Chamber hung with purple
Cloth and there attended four of y^e Maids of honnour all in vailes, and
y^e Gentlemen of the bed Chamber, pages in another roome all in black,
y^e staires all below the same. Y^e Queen dyeing while y^e parliam^t
sate, y^e King gave mourning to them, 500 and Clerks, w^{ch} attended
thus: their Speaker haveing his traine bore up, then y^e Lord Major y^e
same, and attended by y^e aldermen and officers all in black, and y^e
Judges; then y^e officers of the houshold, then y^e Guards, then y^e
Gentleman master of y^e horse Led the queens Led horse Cover’d up w^{th}
purple velvet, next Came the open Chariot made as y^e bed was, the
Cannopy y^e same all purple velvet, a high arch’d teister Ruffled,
w^{th} y^e Rich fring and pall, w^{ch} was supported by Six of y^e first
Dukes of y^e Realme that were not in office. This Chariot was drawn by
the Queens own 6 horses Covered up with purple velvet and at y^e head
and feete was Laid y^e Emblems of her dignity, the Crown and Scepter on
a Cushion at y^e head, and Globe and Gauntlets at y^e feete, after which
the first Dutchess in England as Chief mourner walked supported by these
Lords, the Lord president of y^e Councill and y^e Lord privy Seale, she
haveing a vaile over her face, and her traine of 6 yards Length being
bore up by the next Dutchess assisted by four young Ladyes. After w^{ch}
two and two y^e Ladies followed and Lords, all Long traines according to
their ranke, y^e Bishops Likewise all on foote on black Cloth strained
on boards, from Whitehall to Westminster abby where was a sermon, in
w^{ch} tyme y^e body of y^e queen was reposed in a masulium in form of a
bed w^{th} black velvet and silver fringe round, and hanging in arches,
and at y^e four Corners was tapers and in y^e middle a bason supported
by Cupids or Cherubims shoulders, in w^{ch} was one Entire Great Lamp
burning y^e whole tyme. Then after y^e service of burial w^{ch} is done
with solemn and mournfull musick and singing, ye sound of a Drum
unbraced, the breakeing of all y^e white staves of those that were y^e
officers of y^e queen, and flinging in y^e keys of the rest of y^e
offices devoted by y^t badge into y^e tomb. They seale it up and soe
returne in same order they went. There is allwayes a high steward made
for all solemnityes of y^e Kings and Queens and he is only soe for that
day, and he goes just before the Led horse. The pages also Lead all y^e
horses that draws y^e Chariot, and the yeaumen of y^e guard walks on
Each side all y^e way. This is y^e manner of publick funeralls but if it
be Kings then the Ladyes attend not. Y^e next Ceremonys is the Crowning
the Kings and Queens of England w^{ch} is done in this manner as I have
seen it. The Prince by Letters Summons all the nobility to be ready to
attend them such a day—its usually on S^t Georges day—by the Earle
marshall at Westminster Hall, another Greate Building which containes
the Parliament houses and the courts of justice, and requests all—w^{ch}
shall Describe hereafter. But as I said they being Come to this
Westminster Hall y^e Dean of Westminster abbey w^{th} prebends &c comes
with the Crown, scepter, swords and orb and all the Regalias, it being
in their Custody w^{ch} are all put on y^e table. Y^e prince does
appoynt these all to be Carryed by severall Lords; then there being blew
Cloth spread from y^e Hall to y^e Abby w^{ch} is all railed in and Lined
with foote and horse Guards, the Procession beginns thus. First four
drums two and two as is the whole procession, these beate y^e March;
then the 6 Chancery Clerkes, then the Chaplaines that have Dignityes,
then the aldermen of London and y^e masters in Chancery, y^e Solicitor
Generall, y^e Attorney General, then the Gentlemen of the privy Chamber,
next the judges, then the Children of the Kings Chappel, then the Choir
of Westminster, then the gentlemen of the Chapple, next y^e Prebends of
Westminster, then the Master of y^e jewel house, then goes the Privy
Counsellors y^t are not Peers of the realme, then two Pursuivants goe,
next them goes y^e Barronesses in Crimson velvet Robes Lined w^{th}
Earmine, and Cut waved in a Long traine Lined with white sarsnet, the
sleeves were open to the shoulder, tyed up there with Silver Cords and
tassells hanging down to y^e wast, the sleeves being fringed w^{th}
silver, under w^{ch} fine point or Lace sleeves and Ruffles, w^{th}
Gloves Laced or w^{th} Ribon gold and white, their peticoates were
white; some tissue Laced w^{th} gold or silver, and their stomatchers
some were all Diamonds; over all they had mantles of y^e same Crimson
velvet Lined w^{th} Earmine and fastened to the shoulder, on w^{ch}
there was a broad Earmine Like a Cape reaching to y^e waste powder’d
w^{th} rowes according to their Degree, y^e barroness 2 rows, the
viscountess 2 rows and halfe, the Countesses 3 Rowes, the Marchoness 3
rows and a halfe, the Dutchesses 4 Rows, the Queen 6; these all having
Long traines suiteable to their Robes and were in Length as their
Degree. Y^e Barronesses had their traines 2 yards and a quarter drawing
on the ground, the Viscountess 2 yards and halfe, y^e Marchionesses 2
yards 3 quarters, y^e Dutchess 3 yards drawing on the Ground. Their
heads were dress’d w^{th} much haire and Long Locks full of
Diamonds—some perfect Peakes of bows of Diamonds as was the Countess of
Pembrook,—their heads so dress’d as a space Left for their Coronets to
be set, all y^e rest is filled w^{th} haire, Jewells and gold, and white
small Ribon, or Gold thinn Lace, in form of a peake, and gold gause on
their rowles, they have also Diamond necklaces and jewels on their
habitts. Each Carry their Corronets in their hands w^{ch} does also
Distinguish their Dignityes. The Barrons is a velvet Cap w^{th} a
Coronet of Gold, w^{th} six great pearles or what resembles them a white
Gilding in that form. Y^e Viscounts Coronet is a Gold set w^{th} 16
pearles of Like sort set very Close together. Ye Earles Coronet is of
Gold w^{th} spikes, on y^e tops of which are Laid pearles w^{ch} stands
at a Distance; and have Leaves at y^e frame. Y^e Marquess’s Coronet is
Gold alsoe w^{th} spikes of Leaves of y^e same at distances, between
w^{ch} are those pearles much Lower just proceeding from y^e frame. The
Dukes are a Double row of Leaves y^e one standing up at distances, y^e
others between, Low by y^e frame.
The Dukes, Marquess’s, Earles, Viscounts, and Barrons, are Differenced
as the Ladyes are by their Rows of Earmine on their Mantles—they all
being Clad w^{th} Rich vests under their Robes, and trimm’d gloves of
Lace or fringe, fine Linnen, and Carry their Coronets in their hands.
Only those that are knights of y^e garter weare a Chaine of Gold S S on
their shoulders upon their Earmine Cape, and have their George hanging
to it, their Starr on y^e breast of their Robes and a Diamond garter on
their Leg w^{th} blew Ribon. In this manner habited proceeds y^e
Barronesses and Barrons, then the Bishops that sit in y^e Parliam^t as
peeres their habit is Lawn sleeves and Black, their Capps are flatt Like
a 4 square trencher put on Cornerwise; after which went a pursuivant,
then in same order y^e Viscountesses and next y^e Viscounts; then two
Heraulds, then in same order the Countesses and next the Earles, then a
Herauld, then in y^e same order y^e marchionesses next y^e marquisses,
then two heraulds, then in the same order the Dutchesses, next them the
Dukes, then two Kings at armes, after which y^e Lord Privy Seale, next
him Lord President of y^e Councill. Then y^e ArchBishops w^{ch} are
Esteemed in higher Rank than y^e Dukes, then a Duke w^{ch} is of y^e
Royal family w^{th} their traine bore up, Prince George of Denmarke
being Royal Consort to Queen Ann walked so haveing his traine bore by
the vice-Chamberlaine, the Prince is Duke of Cumberland w^{ch} is y^e
first Duke; next goe two personages in Robes of state, but of an antique
forme, velvet and Earmine w^{th} Hatts of Gold tissues, personateing y^e
two Dukes of Acquitaine and Normandy w^{ch} belongs to y^e English
Crown. Next them went the Lord w^{ch} bore S^t Edmunds staff, w^{th} a
Lord that bore the Gold Spurrs, another Lord with y^e Scepter Royal, 3
other Lords following w^{th} y^e sword of justice, y^e Curtana sword of
mercy, and another poynted sword, next which S^r Garter King at armes
between my Lord Major and the usher of y^e black Rod. These Heraulds
dress in Coates full of y^e Kings armes all about with Gildings, and
hang short w^{th} Long sleeves and sleeves hanging behind alsoe. Next
y^e Lord High Chamberlaine single, then next an Earle beares y^e sword
of State between y^e Earle Marshall and y^e Lord high Constable, made
for y^t Dayes Solemnity. Next goes an Earle Beareing y^e Scepter of y^e
Dove, next y^t a Duke Carrying y^e Globe orb, next went a Duke w^{th}
y^e Crown w^{ch} must be Lord High Steward for that dayes Solemnity,
next went a Bishop w^{th} y^e Bible between two other Bishops y^t
Carryed y^e pattent and y^e Challice w^{ch} Last appertaines to y^e Dean
of Westminster. Next this the Cannopys and in Case there is a King then
his Consort goes before him in this manner under a Cannopy of Cloth of
Gold borne up by 8 Barrons of y^e Cinque ports, and is supported by two
Bishops, and her Coronet or Crown is alsoe Carryed by a Lord before, and
alsoe a silver Rod by another Lord, w^{ch} when she returns she holds in
one hand and the Little scepter. Her traine is bore up by y^e first
Duchess of y^e Realme assisted by 4 maiden Daughters of Earles and her
Robes ought to be only Crimson velvet, but King James’s Queen would have
purple, but never Changes them as doth a Queen that is Regent in her
self y^e Principal, as Queen Ann and her sister Queen Mary joinct in y^e
throne w^{th} King William. All w^{ch} in some things makes a Difference
as shall show, for y^e Queen Consort as King James’s queen was not
anoynted nor sworne unless as a subject to y^e King and walked thus
before him, after which y^e King Came under another Cannopy of gold
tissue supported by 8 more of y^e Barrons of the Cinque-ports; he leaned
on two Bishops, his traine borne up by the Lord w^{ch} is Master of his
robes assisted by four Lords sonns. These Cannopyes have silver staves
for Each person to hold them up by. In y^e Case of King William and
Queen Mary that were set joynctly on the throne anoynted both and sworne
by y^e Coronation oath, they Likewise walked both under one of these
Canopyes made very Large supported by y^e 16 Barrons, and on y^e outside
of Each went a Bishop on whome they Leaned, Leading Each other; and
their traines were bore, the Kings by y^e Lord w^{ch} is master of y^e
Robes, the Queen by y^e first Dutchess and young Ladies. And soe their
throne was Entire two seates and their Cannopyes one at y^e table, but
now as in Case of our present Majesty Queen Ann I saw her thus; her
Cannopy was Large bore by y^e sixteen, and she because of Lameness of
y^e Gout had an Elbow Chaire of Crimson velvet w^{th} a Low back, by
w^{ch} meanes her mantle and Robe was Cast over it and bore by the Lord
Master of y^e Robes and y^e first Dutchess, w^{th} 4 maiden Ladies,
Earles Daughters on Each side Richly Dress’d in Cloth of Gold or Silver,
Laced, w^{th} Long traines, Richly Dressed in fine Linnen, and jewells
in their hair, and Embroider’d on their Gowns. The Queens traine was 6
yards Long, the Mantle suitable of Crimson velvet with Earmine as y^e
other of y^e nobility, only the rowes of powdering Exceeded, being six
rowes of powdering. Her Robe under was of Gold tissue, very Rich
Embroydery of jewellry about it, her peticoate the same of Gold tissue
w^{th} gold and silver lace, between Rowes of Diamonds Embroyder’d, her
Linnen fine. The Queen being principall of the order of y^e Garter had a
row of Gold S S about her shoulders, y^e Georges w^{ch} are allwayes set
with Diamonds and tyed with a blew Ribon. Her head was well dress’d
w^{th} Diamonds mixed in y^e haire w^{ch} at y^e Least motion Brill’d
and flamed. She wore a Crimson velvet Cap with Earmine under y^e
Circlet, w^{ch} was set with Diamonds, and on the middle a sprig of
Diamonds drops transparent hung in form of a plume of feathers, for this
Cap is y^e Prince of Wales’s Cap w^{ch} till after y^e Coronation that
makes them Legall king and queen—they weare. Thus to y^e quire doore she
Came, then Leaveing y^e Cannopy—(y^e Chaire she Left at y^e Abby doore—)
she is conducted to y^e Alter which was finely deck’d w^{th} Gold tissue
Carpet and fine Linnen, on the top all y^e plaite of y^e abby sett, y^e
velvet Cushions to place y^e Crown and all y^e regallias on. She made
her offering at y^e Alter, a pound weight or wedge of gold, here the
Dean of Westminster and y^e prebends which assists the Arch-Bishop in
the Cerimonyes are arrayed in very Rich Coapes and Mitres, black velvet
Embroyder’d w^{th} gold Starrs, or Else tissue of gold and silver. Then
the Littany and prayers are sung and repeated by two Bishops w^{th} a
small organ, then the Queen being seated on a green velvet Chaire
faceing the pulpit attends y^e words of y^e sermon w^{ch} was by y^e
arch-Bishop of York, w^{ch} being ended y^e Queen arose and returned
thanks for y^e Arch-bishops Sermon, is shewed to y^e people by saying a
form, Will you take this to be your Souveraigne to be over you? thus I
saw the Queen turn her face to y^e four sides of y^e Church, then the
Coronation oath is repeated to her, w^{ch} she distinctly answered each
article, which oath is very Large in three articles, relateing to all
priviledges of y^e Church and State to which she promised to be the
security and to maintaine all to us. Then she kiss’d y^e Bible, then a
Bible was presented to her to maintaine y^e true Protestant religion.
Then she being on a Little throne by the alter, Cover’d all w^{th} Cloth
of Gold, she has y^e spurrs of gold brought her and they toutch her
heele, then the sword of state is presented her which she offers up on
the alter, w^{ch} a Lord appoynted for it redeemes y^e sword for 100
shillings, and draws it out and beares it naked all y^e day. After the
other swords are brought and presented her w^{ch} she delivers to y^e
severall officers, then the ring is put on her finger to witness she is
married to the Kingdom, then the orb I saw brought and presented to her
and y^e Scepters. Then she was anoynted in this manner; there was a
Cloth of silver twilight Embroyder’d, held a Little shaddowing over her
head. I saw y^e Bishop bring y^e oyle on a spoone soe annoynted y^e
palmes of her hands, her breast and her forehead, Last of all y^e top of
her head, haveing taken off y^e prince of Wales’s Cap and y^e haire
being Cutt off Close at y^e top y^e oyle was poured on and with a fine
Cloth all Dryed againe. Then Last of all y^e arch Bishops held the Crown
over her head w^{ch} Crown was made on purpose for this Cerimony vastly
Rich in Diamonds, y^e borders and y^e Globe part very thick sett w^{th}
vast diamonds, y^e Cross on y^e top with all diamonds w^{ch} flamed at
y^e Least motion, this is worth a vast summe, but being made for this
Cerimony and pulled to pieces againe, its only soe much for the hire of
such Jewells that made it. This I saw was fix’d on y^e Queens head
w^{th} Huzza’s and sound of Drumms trumpets and gunns, and at the same
tyme all y^e peeres and peeresses put on their Coronets on their heads.
There are divers forms of speech that belong to each Cerimony. Y^e Queen
after this goes to y^e alter and there I saw her receive the Sacrament,
I saw the deane bring her y^e bread and wine. Then she is Conducted with
her Crown on, her Globe and Scepter in her hand and seated on y^e Royal
throne of y^e Kingdom w^{ch} is of gold finely wrought, high back and
armes set on a theatre of severall steps, assent rises on four sides to
it. She being thus seated is followed w^{th} a second Huzza and sound of
drums and trumpets and Gunns, then all y^e Lords and Bishops pay their
homage to her; the Eldest of Each ranke swears fidelity to her in his
own name and in y^e name of all of his ranck. They all singly come and
touch her Crown and some kiss her Right Cheeke—they make all do soe,—she
kisses the Bishops. All this while anthems are sung and the Medals are
Cast about by the treasurer of y^e houshold, after w^{ch} the Queen
arose and went and made her second offering, sate down on the throne on
w^{ch} she was annoynted and Crown’d. After, an anthem is sung proper
for the tyme, after w^{ch} the Queen retired into King Edwards Chappel
to private prayer, w^{ch} being ended and her Crimson velvet mantle
being taken off and one of purple velvet made just y^e same put on, in
y^e same manner they returned Each one in his station, only the Lords
y^t Carryed the Regalias now tooke their places as peers with y^e rest,
y^e Queen walked to y^e doore of y^e abby w^{th} obligeing Lookes and
bows to all y^t Saluted her and were spectatours, w^{ch} were prodigious
numbers in Scaffolds built in the Abbey and all the streetes on each
side reaching to Westminster hall, where the Queen againe quitted her
Chaire w^{ch} was Carryed by four men, the whole procession being both
going and comeing attended by y^e gentlemen pensioners Clad in Scarlet
Cloth w^{th} gold Lace, Holding halberds w^{th} gold tops Like
pick-axes. These make a Lane for the queen to pass and follow two and
two, next them y^e groomes of the bed Chamber, then the Captaine of y^e
guards went between y^e Captaine of y^e pensioners band and the Captain
of y^e yeaumen, and were attended by their officers and yeamen.
The queen being Come up to her table w^{ch} was a great rise of stepps
she was seated on her throne w^{ch} was under a fine Cannopy. When King
James was Crown’d he sate soe: at his Left hand sate his Queen under
another Cannopy, but King William and Queen Mary being both principalls
sate under one Large Cannopy on one Large throne, but our present Queen
should have sate alone as she did in the upper End under y^e Cannopy,
but she sent and did invite Prince George her Consort to dine with her.
So he Came and at her request tooke his seate at her Left hand without
the Cannopy. The first Course was served just before the Queen Came in,
She being ushered in by the Earle Marshall, Lord High Steward, and Lord
high Chamberlaine on horseback, their horses being finely dress’d and
managed, and the Cookes Came up with their point aprons and towells
about their shoulders of poynt; after w^{ch} Comes up the Lord high
steward againe on horseback, with the other two Lords, and acquaints the
king or queen there is their Champion without ready to Encounter or
Combate with any that should pretend to dispute, after w^{ch} he is
Conducted in on horseback by the Earle Marshall and y^e Lord high
steward, and they Come up to the stepps of the throne, and there the
Champion all dress’d in armour Cap-a-pe and declares his readyness to
Combate w^{th} any that should oppose the Right of their Majestyes, and
there upon throws down his guantlet w^{ch} is giving Challenge, after
w^{ch} the King or Queen drinks to him in a Gold Cup w^{th} a Cover, y^e
same w^{ch} is Carryed to y^e Champion and he drinks, and then he
retires back and Carrys it away being his Due as is the best horse in
the kings stable, y^e best suite of armour in y^e armory. This belongs
to S^r John Dimmocks familly y^t hath a yearly salery from the Crown. My
Lord Major here officiates as y^e kings Butler, and hath for a Reward
such another Cup of gold Covered and thus the Ceremony Ends and they all
retire. Westminster Hall is as full of spectatours sitting on scaffolds
on Each side, under w^{ch} are severall Long tables spread and full of
all varietyes prepared for the Lords and Ladies, others for the judges,
aldermen &c.
When there is a Rideing Coronation they proceed on from y^e abbey when a
king is Crowned, all on horseback thro’ y^e Citty in y^e same order as
at the Entry at y^e peace, quite to y^e Tower all richly dress’d and
their horses w^{th} fine trappings, Led on both sides by Each Lords
pages, and when its a King only, then only y^e Lords attend as in y^e
Coronation of King Charles the second, but at Queen Elizabeths the
Ladies alsoe attended to y^e Tower which is at the utmost extremity of
y^e Citty of London, where the Governour presents the King with y^e
Keyes which he returns againe and after some other Cerimonyes and
makeing some Knights of y^e Bath Either six or Eight I Cannot tell
which. These are an order that prefferr such a knight above all other
knights, but is not so high as a Barronet and it alsoe expires at their
Death descending not to y^e son; they wear a scarlet Ribon round their
shoulder Like a belt: then they all return back to the pallace; Usually
the rideing Coronation holds two dayes.
The tower is built just by y^e Thames, thereon many gunns are placed all
round, its built of free stone, four towers. In one is y^e amunition and
powder, Called y^e white tower, w^{ch} is kept very secure w^{th} 6
keyes w^{ch} are kept by six persons. In another part the Coynage is
where they refine, melt, form, stamp and Engrave all y^e money w^{ch} is
managed by severall over w^{ch} there is y^e Comptroler of y^e mint. In
another part is kept severall Lyons w^{ch} are named by y^e names of y^e
kings, and it has been observ’d that when a king has dyed y^e Lion of
y^e name has alsoe dyed.
There are also other strange Creatures kept there, Leopards, Eagles &c
&c w^{ch} have been brought from forreign parts. In another place is
kept the Crowns and all y^e Regalias, as orb, scepters, swords. The
Crown that is made on purpose to Crown a prince is pulled to pieces
againe and they only reserve an old large Crown of King Harry y^e
seventh in form of a Ducall Coronet, and y^e Crown w^{ch} is used for
the passing of bills, of w^{ch} here after. This hath Large pearles on
y^e Cross and an Emerauld on y^e top of y^e head w^{ch} Closes the bands
w^{ch} goes every way of y^e sides to y^e round frame full of Diamonds
and Saphyr’s and Rubies w^{ch} y^e frame at y^e bottom is also enchased
with. This Large Emerauld is as bigg as an Egg all transparent and well
Cut: the Globe is alsoe sett w^{th} diamonds representing y^e Lines on
the Celestial Globe. The middle or body of y^e Tower is full of armour
of all sorts and placed in Each roome w^{th} great Curiosity Like a
ffurniture on y^e walls and kept very bright and fine. And now I shall
return to y^e Hall att Westminster where are all y^e Courts of justice
kept. There are severall parts out of y^e hall for y^e Court of y^e
Kings Bench for tryal of all Causes by jurys, Grand juryes and petty
jurys, to manage w^{ch} there is a Lord Chief Justice and three other
Judges his assistants, where matters are heard by Councellors, attornys
and solicitors to plead y^e Cause in the Court. All these formerly were
but few in number when buisness was not delayed but brought to a quick
jssue and persons had matters decided quicker, but now they are
increased extreamely and Consequently buisness Lengthened out for their
profit. There is alsoe another Court of y^e Common pleas to w^{ch} is
another Chiefe Justice, the first is Call’d the Lord Chiefe Justice of
the Kings Bench Court, y^e other the Lord Chiefe Justice of y^e Common
pleas—he hath alsoe three Judges assistants. This Court is in something
the same nature managed as y^e former, only that matters of Life and
death are not here tryed or determined, that belongs to y^e Kings Bench.
There is alsoe the Exchequer Chamber which is another Court and managed
by a Lord Chiefe Baron and 3 other Barrons assistants, w^{ch} are all
judges, and all first sergeants and in this manner are fitted, having
been Entred at such an age into any of y^e jnns of Court of w^{ch} there
are many in y^e town, Lincolns-inn, Grays-inn, Ffurnifulls-inn,
Clemens-jnn, Cliffords-inn and others. The Temples Likewise are such
where they are students in the Law and goe to hear Causes and are
trained up in that Learning w^{ch} is grounded on our Laws, the Magna
Charta Law of the whole kingdom by w^{ch} all matters are or may be
decided. After soe many yeares studdy and being thus Entred they are
Called to y^e barr—y^t is to plead as Councellors and Barristers in
these Courts, and out of such that have been thus Barristers many yeares
they Commence serjeants, and are made in this manner the first day of a
terme. They walk two and two in their Gowns from y^e Temple to
Westminster Hall where Each that is designed for serjeants stand with
their Back to y^e Barr of the Court at a Little distance, y^e puny judge
on the Bench sayes to the Lord Chief Justice, my Lord I think I spye a
Brother; the Lord Chief Justice replies truly Brother I thinke its soe
indeed, send and bring him up to be examined whether capable or well
quallify’d; w^{ch} is done and after severall questions he is sworn and
has a Coiffe put on his head, which is a black satten Cap w^{th} a white
Lace or Edge round y^e bottom and thus he is received into their number
and soe returned. They have a feast and pay their fees which is
considerable all to maintain the Court out of such as are sergeants. The
king makes judges and gives them salleryes; all the judges doe weare
scarlet robes Lined with furr. These twelve judges sitt in the House of
Lords on wooll packs, not as peers but as Councellors to informe the
house of what is their former Laws, and to decide matters that Come
before them if relating to the Law, and soe are only their officers and
Cannot put on their Caps without permission of y^e Lords. There is alsoe
another Court for justice w^{ch} is Called the Court of Equity or
Chancery. The other Courts properly Judges of the matters of Right by
Law this as to the Equitty of it, w^{ch} is managed by a Lord Chancellor
or a Lord Keeper, w^{ch} is not in soe high a station nor at so vast
expence, but answers the Ends of the other as to the Buissness—is Called
Lord Keeper because he keepes the great seale of England w^{ch} makes
all authentick that passes it. This sometymes is managed in Commision by
three, but many tymes by one single person, he allwayes sitts in the
house of Lords alsoe and is y^e speaker of y^e house of Lords. Under him
there is the Master of the Roles w^{ch} is his deputy and in the others
absence acts in the Court as Chiefe. This Court keeps all the Records
and statutes, there are two registers belongs to it with six masters
which are alsoe the under justices, and six Clerks w^{ch} have all their
Respective offices and Enter all things. Under them is the 60 Clerks and
other under writers. This formerly was the best Court to relieve the
subject but now is as Corrupt as any and as dilatory. The Causes in the
Chancery are heard and Refferr’d to some of the masters and they report
the matter againe, and soe from the notion of this being a Court of
Equitty and so gives Liberty for persons to make all the allegation and
reasons in their Cause, which much delayes y^e dispatch, which formerly
was of a very good advantage to prevent a huddling up a Cause without
allowing tyme for y^e partys to produce their evidences or Right, but
now by that meanes is soe ill managed that it admitts of heareing,
Re-heareing over and over on the Least motion of y^e Contrary party,
that will pretend to offer new reason matter for delaying judgment, that
by this it accrues great advantage to y^e Lawyers that have all their
fees each motion and may be so Continued many yeares to sometyme y^e
ruin of the Plaintiffs and deffendants. A small gratuiety obteine an
order to delay till the next terme and so to another.
There are four termes in a yeare, one at Easter, another at Midsumer,
and at Michaelmas, and Candle-mass, at which tymes these Courts of
justice are open for tryal of y^e Causes belonging to their Courts, and
holds a fortnight or more, one three weekes, another a month, one 5
weekes; but there are sealeing dayes w^{ch} hold much Longer and this
between Easter and Midsumer terme joyns the tymes. Y^e Last terme is the
shortest but the seales hold Longer. After this is the Long vacation
being the heate of the weather and tyme of harvest in which tyme alsoe
are the assizes in all the Countys in England, for at y^e End of the
Midsummer terme y^e Judges takes y^e Circuites assigned Each, usual the
Lord Chiefe Justice of England w^{ch} is of y^e Kings Bench Chuses the
home Circuit w^{ch} is the County adjacent all about London, w^{ch} is a
Less fatigue and more Easily perform’d. Two judges must goe in Each
Circuite and in all places the one sitts on the Bench of Life and Death,
y^e other on buisness de-nise-prises, and soe they exchange in all the
places they Come, y^e judge y^t was on the Life and death at one County,
in the next takes y^e barr of the nais prisse and so on. There is one
Called the Northern Circuit w^{ch} is a Long one and takes in Wales;
there is the Western Circuite alsoe: this takes up 6 of y^e 12 judges
and Barrons.
But all this while there must be two at Least Left in London to heare
and attend y^e sessions of y^e Old Bayly which is kept once a month both
of Life and death and Common pleas.
In all these sessions at y^e Old Bayly y^e Lord Major is the judge and
sitts as such, but Leaves the management of the Law to the Chiefe
justice or Judges which ought to be two. There is the Recorder of y^e
Citty also another justice who after y^e judge has summon’d the Evidence
does alsoe summ it up, and this is in all the tryals at the Kings Bench,
alsoe here the sword Bearer is a officer, and Common Cryer, and alsoe
the two Sherriffs attends, they impanell the Jury and their office is so
necessary y^t at the death of a Sherriff as happened Last yeare the
Buissness of the terme happening then stood still till another was
Chosen and sworne.
The Recorder of the Citty is allwayes knighted and soe is the
Chamberlaine of the Citty. Now in the assizes in all the Countyes of
England the sherriff of the County Comes to the Edge of the County and
Receives y^e judges from the hand of the sherriff of y^e next County and
Conducts him to y^e County town attended w^{th} the Gentry, and there is
a Large house in the town hired for that tyme for the judge, and all the
sherriffs officers attends him and he in person; alsoe he sends the
judge a present y^e first night of meate and wine and gives him one
dinner. Its usual that the Judges are Entertained most of the tyme by
the Bishop Major and best Gentlemen, its seldom they stay more than a
weeke in a place unless they have a great deale of Buisness or that one
of the judges should be sick so y^t y^e other must supply both barrs one
after another. There are Lawyers that allwayes do follow the judges,
some serjeant which people make use of in their Causes and joyne w^{th}
them some of their own Country Lawyers. There are two of these assizes
in a year, the other is in the winter, besides which in Each County they
have quarterly sessions to w^{ch} all Constables of that precinct
repaires, and the titheing men w^{th} their presentments and Complaints
to punish and relieve in petty matters w^{ch} the Justice of the peace
are judges off, and if they have a matter before them beyond their
decision they bind them over to the asizes and there to prosecute them.
The manner of Criminalls punishment after Condemnation, w^{ch} if it be
for fellony or treason their Condemnation of the first is to be hanged,
and they are drawn in a Cart from their prisons where they had been
Confined all the tyme after they were taken, I say they are drawn in a
Cart with their Coffin tyed to them and halters about their necks, there
is alsoe a Divine with them that is allwayes appointed to be with them
in the prison to prepare them for their death by makeing them sencible
of their Crimes and all their sins, and to Confess and repent of them.
These do accompany them to the place of Execution w^{ch} is generally
through the Citty to a place appoynted for it Called Tijburn. there
after they have prayed and spoken to the people the minister does Exhort
them to repent and to forgive all the world, the Executioner then
desires him to pardon him and so the halter is put on and he is Cast
off, being hung on a Gibbet till dead, then Cut down and buried unless
it be for murder; then usually his body is hung up in Chaines at a Cross
high road in view of all, to deterre others. For high treason they are
drawn in a sledge to their Execution without any Coffin, for their
Condemnation when hang’d to be taken down before quite dead and to be
opened. They take out their heart and say this is the heart of a
traytor, and so his body is Cutt in quarters and hung up on the top of
the Great gates of the Citty which are the places of their prison, some
gate houses for debters, others for fellons and traytors. In Case its a
woman which is a traytor then she is Condemned to be burnt. All at their
Execution have Liberty to speake, and in Case they are sencible of and
repent of their Crimes they do declare it and bewaile it and warne
others from doing the Like, but if they are hard’nd they persist in
denying it to the Last. Now as I said y^e Law Condemns all thus to be
Executed, but if it be great persons they obtaine Leave of y^e king they
may be beheaded, which is done on a scaffold Erected on purpose in
manner of a stage, and the persons brought in Coaches with Ministers do
as the former; then when they have ended their prayers and speech they
Lay down their head on a block and stretch out their bodies. The
Executioner strikes off their heads with an ax or sword made on purpose
and if it be for treason take the head and hold it up saying this is the
head of a traytor; and such Great persons, Especially those that Can pay
well for it, have their heads sewed on againe and so buried. The Prison
in London for great persons is the Tower where are appartments for y^t
purpose. There is in all the County towns Jailes maintained at the
publick Charge, besides which there are houses for Correction of Lesser
faults, as Bridewell, to Correct Lazy and Idle persons and to set them
to work, and alsoe stocks and pillorys to punish them for their Lesser
faults. The Pilory jndeed is to punish perjur’d persons, which is a
greate Crime. There is alsoe whipping, some at a Carts taile, and for
some Crimes they are burnt in the hand or Cheeke as a brand of their
Evil, and if found againe to transgress, y^t marke serves as a greater
witness to their Condemnation. Some alsoe are Banish’d out of y^e kings
dominions dureing Life and should such return they must be executed
without any other tryal; under which we may speake of out Laweryes; a
person for treason or fellony absconding into another kingdom, after a
process at Law by which he is Summon’d to Come and take his tryal, and
he refuses then he is outlaw’d and all his Estate forfeited to the king,
and if Ever he be taken in y^e Kings dominions he is Immediately
Executed w^{th} out any farther tryal, and its usual if such a one be
known to be in a kingdom of our allies to make a Demand of him by the
ambassadour, and such a state takes Care Either to deliver him up or
Else to Expel him their Dominions by proclamation, that none harbour
such a one but deliver up to the government.
Here is noe wracks or tortures nor noe slaves made, only such as are
banish’d sometymes into our forreign plantations there to worke, we have
also prisons for debtors and some of which are privilidge places, as y^e
Kings Bench the Marshalsea and Fleete which persons Entring themselves
prisoners there Cannot further be prosecuted, but Continue there
prisoners dureing Life, and out of the term tymes hire a keeper of the
prison to go allwayes with him as a jaylor; but the Chief Master must
have good security to produce him Every term Else he will be Lyable to
pay his debts, so its only for such as are debtors, and Indeed its a sad
thing they should be so suffer’d and that there should be places of
refuge for such. There is one good act to relieve persons that are
Confined it may be out of Malice and spleen to keep them allwayes so,
but by this act any such Can sue out his habeas Corpus and soe be
brought the first day of the terme Either to a tryal or give bail and
soe be Let out.
Besides this there are in most Lordships, Courts kept which are Courts
Banns and was at first the only jurisdiction by Each gentleman held, all
misdemeanours punished, and by them Informed up to the higher courts of
Kings Bench or Chancery, and alsoe had all their own privelidges
maintained amongst their tennants and neighbours, and Consisted of a
Court Life also which ran in y^e same nature with their session Courts.
These our Laws are Esteemed the best in y^e world, we haveing two
distinct parts, one Comon Law which is singular to our nation and are
managed in these sessions, assizes, Kings Bench, and Common pleas, and
Exchequor, the other is the Civil Law which is the only sort of Law in
any other Kingdom, of which the Chancery, the Arches w^{ch} is under the
archbishop and by his appoyntm^t to the severall Judges of that Court
that are all Civillians, matters of Equitty, all probats of wills,
w^{ch} in the Arches are made and recorded. This is in a place in the
Citty the Doctors Commons where is this Court of Arches and prorogative
Court which Consists of Doctors, Chancelours, Proctors, Suragats w^{ch}
do y^e offices of Councellours attorney and Solicitours at Common Law.
There are registers also from this at London. All the Bishops courts are
kept in each Citty, managed by Chancelours which are Lay men, and the
suragats, also the Bishops deputyes, the proctors, and parolers, which
summons all to it, and there are four in a year in Each County. From
hence are given out Licenses for marriages, here are y^e Cannon Laws of
the Church explain’d and defended, all Church officers punish’d and
examin’d, here are proceeding on Information all persons that infringe
the Church Rites, and formerly all that were vitious and Corrupt in
their practices, even of y^e Clergy also, and receiv’d suspension or
some punishm^t due to the Crime, as Excommunication, but evil men and
governours corrupt and Change wholesome Laws to Evil, so of Late these
Laws have been put in Execution against tender Consciences that could
not Comply to some forms prescrib’d in the Litturgy of the Church of
England, and they have been Excommunicated, after which they are turned
over to the Lay Chancellour and so prosecuted at Common Law because the
spiritual Courts and men will not pretend to use the sword of
punishment, but while they have turned its Edge thus against y^e tender
Consciences scrupleing the forms of worship in the Church of England,
they have Left punishing the enormous Crimes of their parishoners nay of
their Clergy also, to the scandal of Protestants. Indeed blessed be God
that since King William and Queen Mary of happy memory Weilded the
scepter, and Liberty for such descenters have been Establish’d by an act
of Parliam^t, of which houses shall now speake of. Our Kingdom is
governed by Laws made and Establish’d pursuant to the first
Constitutions and Magna-Charta, from which is derived all the Charters
full of priviledges to each Corporation in the Kingdom, suiteable to
their Customs and well being of each; these Laws are made and are not
truely authentick if not Enacted and pass’d by our three states which is
King, Lords and Commons, which Can make Laws for all Cases provided they
are for the good of the whole and do not tend to subvert our originall
Contract grounded on our Magna Charta or ffundamental Laws of the Land,
which Constitution is by all the world esteemed the best if kept on each
ones Basis, a tripple foundation, and when y^e King Exerts not his
prerogative beyond its Limitts to the oppressing his peoples
priviledges, nor the people exorbitant and tumultuous in the standing or
running up their power and priviledges to Cloud and bind up the hands of
the prince. But if it goes in an Equal and just footeing, the people
whose is the purse and strength will maintaine the King and his
Councellours, and they will do the best offices to the King from the
people, and so the King might allwayes reigne in his peoples hearts by
Love as well as over them, and they yeild duty and obedience to him, and
securely repose in him that should so studdy to preserve them in all
their privilidges and trade, which would procure us honour and
admiration to the whole world, and Continue us too greate for Enemyes to
invade or molest us and so great as to have all seeke to be our allies,
and those that were so would find a secure trust and faithfull friends
in us, but alas! its too sadly to be bemoaned y^e best and sweetest wine
turns soonest sour, some by folly faction and wickedness have
endeavour’d our own ruin, and were it not for Gods providentiall Care
and miraculous works we should at this day been a people Left to utter
dispaire haveing only the agraveteing thoughts of our once happy
Constitution to Lament its Losse the more. To go on the Parliament which
in Westminster Hall has appartments, the one for y^e house of Lords and
Called the Upper House, where all the Lords which are not papists and
w^{ch} are of age do sitt in their order on benches Covered with scarlet
cloth, the Bishops Likewise sitt as peers of the realme and have voices
in all Causes, but in bloud the sanguinary Laws and decision there on
its said they may sitt, but they from their order in the Church alwayes
go out, but they first make their claime that they might continue, but
all other of y^e Lords if absent can give their proxy to another Lord
and desire him to give his voice in matters debateable in his absence,
and any such Lord Chuses another that he knows to be of his own
sentiments, or should give him account at any case he should differ that
may have the absent Lords real Consent, which has happened that a Lord
has given his own voice one way and the proxy voice another as the
absent Lord shall direct, but this is seldome and this is permitted
because sickness or Extraordinary buissness of their own, the Kings, or
the peoples, may require his absence. Now the Lords w^{ch} are peeres of
the realme are born Councellors to the King and are Looked on as such,
its true tho’ at all tymes they may and should give the King their
advice yet y^e King has power and do make Choice of a privy Councill,
which consist of Lords temporall and spirituall, w^{ch} are Bishops, and
also out of some of y^e Commons of England which are the Gentry. In this
house of Lords the judges as I said before sitts but have noe vote. The
Lord Chancellor or Keeper of the Seale sitts and is speaker to that
house, but if he be noe peer which sometymes happens, and is at this
tyme in Right Lord keeper of the Seale, then I say he has no voice in
any matter and serves them only as their servant or officer to put
questions to Count their voice on their dividing on a matter, to make a
speech to them from y^e King, and to present anything to y^e King, and
he sitts on a wool-pack to just under the throne where the king sitts
when there which is seldome but to pass bills. On each side of the
throne is two stooles, y^t on the Right hand is for the Prince of Wales
if any is, that on the Left to the first Duke prince of the blood royal
or kings brother that is heir more remote. Behind the throne is a place
for the noblemens sonns minors to be, to give them opportunity to heare
and instruct them in the Laws of England. In the middle of the roome is
tables w^{th} bookes and records, and there sitts the secretarys of
state which are two, these with some under them take the minutes of what
is debated and resolved. The Lords do form Law agreable to the
fundamentall Laws in which the judges advise them. They thus form a bill
which being in all poynts examined, all objections answered, and being
well amended and passed three tymes, being read and agreed, is Carryed
down to the Lower house which Consists of the Commons of England Chosen
by a precept from the Crown to all the Sherriffs of the Countys to Chuse
amongst themselves two of Each Corporation or Burrough, and two for each
County which are Called knights of y^e shire, to represent them in this
assembly. All that are free-holders of a County has a voice to Choose.
The Corporations and Burroughs Chuse by their freemen also, but because
of the peculiar Customs and priviledges in each place it makes some
variation. Those that have most of voices which are Legal to Chuse, the
Bailiff or major of the place or sherriffs return up to the Crown
office, from whence the precept Came, the Name of such persons so Chosen
to sitt in the parliament. This was an Excellent Constitution and order
when kept to its order that none were Chosen but the Gentlemen of the
shire or town Living there, or Else the Chiefe of their Corporation that
Lived there, by w^{ch} meanes they were fully instructed what was for
the weale and good of Each place they serv’d for, and so Could promote
designes for their advantage and trade and represent their Grievances to
be redress’d, they also know the strength and riches of the nation and
soe Could with a more Equal hand Lay y^e taxes on all answerable to
their ability; but instead of this the nation is so Corrupted that what
with hopes of prefferrment at Court or being skreen’d by their
priviledges from paying their debts, which is thus: dureing the sessions
or forty dayes before or after, such as are parliament men Cannot be
arrested or troubled for money they owe, y^e reason at first was well
grounded that these persons were known to be, and in Case a troublesome
person had money due and had been delay’d by some Extraordinary Cause
that this troublesome person might find such a one at the parliament
house might Lay him in prison and so hinder y^e buissness of the nation.
But this is abused to a great prejudice of the subject, men run out of
their Estates strive to get into the Parliament to be skreen’d from
their Creditors; and how Can those that are worth Little or nothing be
good disposers of the kingdom treasure or priviledges, or stand up for
them, but by this there is such bribeing by debauching by drinke and
giving them mony, y^t Instead of the parliament men which use to be
Chosen to be the Countrys representatives and servants, to whome they
allowed soe much a day for their expences in London from their homes
while attending the parliament, that now those that would be parliament
men spend prodigious summs of money to be Chosen. Some to serve for
knights of y^e shire have spent 1000 and 1500^{lb} and for Corporation
and Burroughs in proportion, so y^t they Come in with design to be
bribed by the Court or any body y^t has any buisness before them, y^t so
they may be reemburz’d and may gaine more—some place at Least they
Expect and these Care Little for y^e good of y^e nation, being for the
most part perfect strangers to the places for whome they serve, and
consequently to all their Circumstances and so can appeare for none of
them to their advantage, indeed its their own game they mainly aime and
pursue, for they have in their power to form good Laws suiteable to the
fundamentall and Explanatory of such with additionalls to them, tending
to the enlargeing as well as secureing their priviledges. Such Laws
being brought in manner of a bill is read three tymes three severall
dayes, so as all the members might or should have tyme to heare debate,
consider and amend it, and Every member of this house of Commons that
are so chosen and have met and take the oathes required of allegiance,
they Come up to the house of Lords where y^e King meetes them and
desires them to Chuse a speaker for themselves out of their own number,
which they do and Come and present him to the King for his approbation,
w^{ch} done the King makes them a speech and tells them what is
requisite to be done relateing to the Crown, to fforreign things if any
warre or any breach of peace any injury from thence, what is necessary
to be done thereon, if any want of money which they only Can supply, the
reasons of its wants, his promise well and faithfully to dispose it, he
exhorts them to rectifye disorders in practice and soe dismisses them.
This speaker of theirs is the Kings officer Dureing his being speaker
and has a sallery and must keep a Great table. The king gives him one
thousand pound presently to fitt him in his Equipage, he always goes in
Coach or a foote haveing a mace carry’d before him, he has the advantage
of all bills brought into the house a Certainty for Each, he has the
advantage of all the votes printed, to sell them, he sitts in a Chaire
above all the rest of the House to give him advantage to see or heare
any member that speakes. He is to put all Questions, to Count the voices
of noes and yeas on y^e division of the house. There are many Comittees
in this house as well as in the Lords House, appoynted by the whole to
Inspect severall buissness, and to form bills on such buissness to be
brought in to the house. If it be a matter of great Consequence there
may be a Comittee of the whole house which is only thus, y^e speaker
Leaves his Chaire and they resolve themselves into such a Committee and
debate matters, and for that tyme Choose a Chairman for the Committee.
Then the speaker reasumes the Chaire and this Chaireman of y^e Comittee
reports the debate of y^t Committee to the Speaker and whole House. When
there is a full house, which may be never was, there is 500 as I said
before. When they have pass’d a bill thrice through the house with
approbation they send it up to the Lords, and if they pass it three
tymes also without amendment then it is jnGross’d, haveing been pass’d
the two states, and so Lyes ready to pass the Last which is the Kings
Consent. But if either the bills sent down by the Lords are amended by
y^e Comons, and when brought up to the Lords againe and they Like not
those amendments then they Cast out the bill; so Likewise any bill sent
up by the Commons for the Lords assent in Case they make amendments
which y^e Comons Like not then they Cast out their bill; but if Each
other agree to the amendments or pass the bills without amendment
through both houses then they are Engross’d and prepared for the Royal
assent, the third state of our government w^{ch} is in this manner. The
King sends to y^e house of Lords to attend him in their own house, with
their Robes w^{ch} are Scarlet Cloth with Earmine and Rows of Earmine
w^{th} gold galloone on Each row, the rows are Encreassed to Each
dignity and here y^e bishops weare robes w^{ch} are scarlet also, but
they have about their neck a Large Cape w^{ch} hangs to their waste all
round of a ffurr that Lookes Like Lambskinns, it hangs Like the Capes of
the Cloakes y^e shepheards weare in the open plaine downes. The King
enters; or the Queen as now it is—but I saw King William pass bills in
his Royal Robes of Purple Lined Earmine w^{th} rows of Earmine and the
crown on his head which was the Crown I spake of that had great pearles
on the cross and saphires Rubies and Emeraulds—the Scepter in their
hand—the Usher of the Black Rod is sent to the House of Comons to attend
the King in the House of Lords which they do, with their Speaker that
brings up such bills w^{ch} are so prepared and holds them in his hand,
one by one presenting them to the King, who touches them with the
scepter and sayes, “je le veux bieu” and so to all of them one by one,
w^{ch} done if there be any thing necessary to be told them, the king
either speakes to them or Else orders the Lord Chancellour or Lord
Keeper to acquaint them of any thing in the Kings name if its the Kings
pleasure to prorogue y^m for a few dayes weekes or months. Then that
putts an End to that session till the tyme prefix’d and at that tyme
they must meete againe without summons, and if they are not to meete so
soone, y^e king Issues out a proclaimation y^t its his pleasure y^e
parliament should be prorogued so much Longer. These prorogations
allwayes puts an end to all debates and all bills which are not
ffinished and brought the king to pass, so that at their meeteing againe
they must begin the things they would have or were about the Last tyme
anew. This prorogation is in the kings power and is often done for ten
dayes only to put a stop to heares and debates in the houses, and also
to put an end to something that is not Lik’d by y^e government. True
Indeed they may begin y^e same things at their next meeteing, but if it
be for the great and absolute service of the nation they may, but its
contrived in another method so as not openly to Confront our governours,
tho’ too often we have seen it in our dayes against our Glorious truely
great King William whose wisdom and Compassion for our good pass’d it by
and forgave it. Now in some Cases the King may and does call the
Parliament by a proclaimation to sitt before the tyme of the prorogation
be Expired which takes it off. The parliament does often adjourn
themselves, as every night so sometymes for a weeke, but still the
parliament is Look’d on as in sitting and so buisness is not jnterrupted
but goes on from day to day as they appoint it. The king may also
adjourn them and the two Houses may be adjourned together, but sometymes
they may adjourn seperately, for one may adjourn themselves and y^e
other Continue to act within themselves. Its also in the Kings power to
dissolve y^e parliament w^{ch} puts a finall End to all their buisness
which was not ffinished and brought to the King to pass, it also
disperses the members of y^e House of Commons to be noe more
representatives of y^e nation till another parliament be summon’d and
y^e nation make new Choices, which sometymes and in some places falls on
the old members. It is in the Kings prerogative thus to Call and disolve
parliaments, to declare warre or peace and making alliances, but y^e
Kings ought not nor do rightly undertake any such thing but by the
advice of his standing Privy Councill, which I have spoken before, and
so his proclaimations allwayes runs by and with the advice of his Privy
Councill he does so and so, to which he joyns y^e great Councill of the
nation w^{ch} is his two Houses of Parliament, Lords spiritual and
temporall and Commons of England, when great matters are in agitation as
y^t of peace or warre, w^{ch} is in y^e Constitution of the government,
and strengthened by this that the sinnews of warre is in the people, for
without them no money is to be had; they give the taxes and subsidies
for such expences, nay y^e very revenue is given by them to the King or
the Queen only dureing the then prince’s Life and must be asked of them
that succeed at the death of their predecessors, at the death of such
that is in the throne. Formerly the Parliament of Course was dissolved,
all offices even to a justice of peace was vacant, but our wise King
William contriveing only our good not only Laid a scheme which if be
followed will carry on all the Confederacys and designes against the
Common Enemy of mankind, but also as farre as he could to secure our
peace w^{ch} was by obtaining an Act of Parliam^t that y^e parliament in
being when y^e King died or Else the parliament but just then dissolv’d
by the King, after he dies should assemble together to take care of the
government and to act under y^e next prince for six months, and till
that tyme all offices should remain as they were unless the next heir
should before y^t full tyme were Expired should make any Change of
places. This thing made the Loss of his death Less felt immediately and
our Queen Ann found a quiet Easye ascention into the throne. there was
also at the same tyme an Act to settle the succession in the protestant
Line, and just before our heroe resign’d his Life crown and throne he
pass’d an Act to secure us more firmly against any popish successour or
pretended heirs to the Crown, by an abjuration oath to be taken by all
subjects, of any prince thats a papist, w^{ch} Confirms the Acts of
Parliam^t in years past which made a papist prince unable to be king or
queen of England, because a papest. So this Engages the subjects to
abjure all such or any of their abbettors or pretenders. This was a
great pleasure to our dying king to Leave us with all the Security
possible to Enjoy what he Came to save us in, and give us and what he
had fought to obtaine for us, Liberty in religion and priviledges. I
pray God we do not by our provokeing sinns move his anger not only to
take from us our Benefactor and deliverer but also our said valuable
Blessings and priviledges, the Gospel Light and being a free nation.
I should have said when the king Comes in his robes to the Parliament
and all the Lords have theirs, so if there be any Prince of Wales he is
also in his and weares his Prince of Wales Cap with a branch of diamonds
in forme of a plume of feathers. He sitts in the house of Lords often—he
may allwayes—to hear debates and to vote and he does present them to the
king any of their addresses they desire, which he is attended with some
of the Lords which are the privy Councellors; they bring back the kings
answere. The Like is observ’d by the House of Commons, if they have any
address or any petition to the king they desire some of their members
which are of the Privy Councill to move y^e King when the House shall
attend him or her, which they knowing do it and their Speaker is their
mouth. So when they would have a Conferrence with y^e House of Lords
they send to them to meete them in y^e painted Chamber or Lobby of their
house; so does the Lords send to y^e Commons when they would have a
Conferrence with them. These things are so well adjusted and so for the
Common good that if Rightly maintain’d in their proper places would be a
happy Constitution. All Acts of Parliament so pass’d are printed, but
y^e records of them are kept in the journalls of y^e Parliament by the
Clerke of y^e Parliament. To him are added in the House of Commons also
scribes or secretaryes which record and take minutes also. Now it is on
these Laws that all Causes are tryed, for there are Laws made of all
sorts both what relates to religious matters as well as humaine; true
indeed as to points of religion for Rectifying matters as to the orders
and Church government, that is debated and agreed by a Convocation,
which is allwayes summoned at y^e same tyme a parliament is Chosen,
which Consists of two houses, also the Bishops and deanes, and off the
Inferior Clergy, and is managed by way of debates and disputation which
have a moderatour and prolocutors. Here they endeavour to reforme any
abuse in the Church, any deffect in their Cannon Laws, and to Explaine
those Laws and if they should find such, as in our religion not agreable
to y^e word of God, they form it into a bill or petition which is
presented the King in way of an address, he being owned as head and
supreame under Christ over these Churches and realmes. So this is to
request his Care of it which y^e King does by Laying it before y^e
Houses of Parliament who Enacts Laws to secure our religion, and reforme
evil both in Doctrine and practise by their Acts Duely pass’d. As I said
before the arch-Bishop’s Chiefe of this convocation house.
Next I will proceed to give some short account of tryalls on our Laws
which is thus. Every free man of England being oppress’d Comes in due
form of Law to demand his right, which being heard by the judges and a
jury of his own fellow subjects—his Country men—they give their verdict
in the matter as they thinke most just according to the statutes and
Laws, and so the right between man and man which does vary from y^e
different Customs of Each County or precinct. This jury are twelve men
all sworne on the Bible solemnly to do Justice, not out of feare, fraud
or malice, favour or affection to jnjure any man, and y^e first man is
their foreman and speakes for the rest, Either acquit or Condemns the
person, w^{ch} is in Life or Death, so determining other Causes the same
manner, and these twelve men must all be agreed in their verdict, which
is after they have heard all Can be witness’d or alleadged on all sides,
w^{ch} verdict the Judges also must pronounce on y^e Causes as they have
brought it in. Now those suites of Law as well as Causes of Life and
death are brought in by bill to y^e Grand-jury, which are twenty four
and these all of the best Gentry and many of them justices of peace,
they examine the matter and if they find it (that is by any Act of
Parliament) is pleadable or to be enquired into, they draw it up into an
jndictm^t and so its sent into the Court to be tryed by the Petty Jury,
after whose Verdict and the Judges pronouncing it, the matter must be at
an End and taken out of that Court. Sometymes indeed if the Subject is
oppress’d he may appeale to another Court y^{ts} higher, as from the
sessions to the assizes, thence to the Kings Bench, thence to y^e
Chancery, or the Parliament House which when a matter has there been
Debated and decided there Can be noe more done in it because they are
the makers of the Laws so best able to Interpret. Sometymes in these
other Courts a Jury brings in a matter speciall, that is, Leaves it on
the Judges to determine being a matter of Law, then y^e Judges must
Consult and do it all of them together.
All persons are tryed by those of their own ranke a Commoner of England
is tryed by a Jury of Commoners in all Cases and of Life and death, a
peer of England is tryed by his Peers, and in case it is not the tyme of
y^e Parliament sitting, then by a bill of oyer and terminer issued out,
there is 12 Peers are jmpannell’d as a jury. But I must mention one
thing as to the petty Juryes of Commoners, a person which is tryed for
his Life may Challenge some of those w^{ch} are brought to be sworne for
his Jury, that is except against them to such a number without giving
reason, but if he exceeds that number he must give reason for such
exception, either to be a man he had injured or one w^{ch} had former
malice or one related to y^e persons who Either is dead or injured; for
our Laws Condemn to Death murther, fellony, treasons. By this order you
see its Justice and Care. Then in matters of Life and Death the witness
for the King are sworne, but y^e witness for the prisoners are not
sworne but only Examined to declare the truth. But to returne to the
tryals of a peer which by such a jury is tryed, in Case the house of
Lords y^e parliament is sitting, then they prepare Westminster hall for
the tryal, the House of Comons manage the Evidence and prosecute them,
and the House of Lords are the Judges and Jury in this manner if it be
for Life or death, w^{ch} is grounded on a statute either against
murther, treason or fellony, and so y^e arraignment is read and y^e
Councill for both sides. Y^e house of Commons produces their Evidence
and witness and the King Constitutes a Lord High Steward for that day or
in case the tryal be long he must be Continued till the tryall finishes.
He beares a white staff as badge of his great office which Indeed is y^e
greatest officer in England and for the tyme can act for the King, so
above him. He is usually the person that is Lord Chancellor if he be a
peer which allwayes is. There he sitts as Judge to whome the other
peeres of the whole House of Lords are Joyn’d and after a full
Examination on both sides, and the Criminall haveing had full Leave to
Cleer himself, then the Lord High Steward askes y^e Lords one by one
beginning with the puny Lord, so to the highest “in honour my Lord such
a one do you thinke my Lord that the prisoner at the Barre is guilty or
not Guilty?”—to which Each Lord stands up and answeres for himself
Either, so as he Judges, “guilty upon my honour,” or Else “not guilty
upon my honour” and so it goes from one to all, in this manner the Lord
High Steward marks down to Each Lords name his answere, and at the Last
reckons them up so many Guiltyes, so many not Guiltyes, then he adds his
own thoughts to the side he thinks best, but usualy he is so Crafty as
to add to the side of the Majority, which being done he pronounces the
verdict as y^e majority said, Either Guilty or not. Now this verdict the
Lords give thus on their honour is Equivalent to the oath the Commoners
take that serve in Juryes, for y^e peeres take no oath in these matters,
otherwise than so. Now in Case y^e matter against a peer be only a Law
matter of nuise-prise, then the matter being debated and the answere by
y^e Lord made in his deffence read, and Councell pleading, then y^e Lord
High Steward askes Each Lord in same order as before, but in this forme
“in y^e matter which has been debated before y^r Lord —— Concerning the
Lord at the Barre w^{th} his deffence whether his deffence be sufficient
to Cleer him or not what sayes y^r Lordships Content or not content on
y^r honour?” they all answer as they are affected or understand y^e
matter “content,” or else “not content” which are fixed to each name and
so reckon’d up, and y^e majority Carry’s it Either to quitt or not to
quitt him, to which the Lord High Steward adds his as he pleases also,
after which they shew the High Steward a respect as a king. He is serv’d
on the knee and drinkes some wine and when that is done he breakes his
white staff and so pulls off his hatt. When he was the High Steward he
had all the maces Carry’d before him all y^e officers attending. But in
case there be no Chancellour, only a Lord Keeper as at present is, which
is no peer of y^e realme then he has no vote with y^e Lords only Count
up y^e votes and declares them w^{ch} has the Majority, without the
addition of his, haveing none, and he is only substituted the deputy
steward for the day and so sitts, but on a wool sack as he does in the
House of Lords and is only their speaker and officer and must aske Leave
for himself and the Judges to put on their Caps before they might do it,
now the High Steward sitts in the throne of justice under a Cannopy but
I see this Lord Keeper only sate on a wool sack at the foote of the
throne which stood Empty behind him. He had noe Compliment paid him more
than at another tyme, being only as the Speaker to y^e House of Lords
and so their officer.
There are severall great officers of y^e Court as Lord Treasurer which
takes account of all the kings revenues—this sometymes is in Commision
between 3 or more. There is also the High Admirall of England that has
the Command of all the shipps and stores. This sometymes is in Comisions
also of 3 or more under whome are y^e Vice Admirall and Rear Admirall,
also und^r the Treasurer are severall officers. There is also two
principal Secretaryes of State which write all things, the Kings
Lett^{rs} &c, and relateing to the government, maintain all Inteligences
in y^e kingdom and abroad.
There is also a Master of the Generall Post Office that has all the
under masters and officers of y^e posts both for forreign Letters and
inland Lett^{rs}.
There are also governours as Lord Lieutenant of Jreland—that sometymes
is held in Commission. There is also Lords Justices there, all which
have their Salleryes ariseing out of the same kingdom. There is also to
all our forreign plantations govern^{rs} sent from England and their
salleryes arise from the plantation. The Kings revenues arise from y^e
Customs of goods exported and jmported, from the Excise on all Liquors
that are made in England and sold, besides which there is a Considerable
revenue from Lands belonging to y^e Crown, tho’ that is much Lessen’d by
the severall donations of our kings for many yeares to their favourites.
Out of those revenues all y^e Civil List is maintain’d, which is y^e
Judges salleries, the great officers, the household of y^e king. There
is another great revenue in y^e Post Office, besides at all
Extraordinary occasions of the marriage of any of our princess’s their
portion, or any warre, then the Parliament raises taxes on the nation on
Land or trade, additional Customs, and also on the Excise, Encreasing
that under the Civil List is the Expences of the Court, the guards, and
also the ambassadors which are sent by the king into forreign kingdoms
to treate matters for Each others good: their Expences while there are
allowed and so of all Envoyes or Consulls w^{ch} are lesser
Embassadours. There is also the maintaining the navy, building shipps,
the wood of which Indeed is out of the King’s fforest.
There remaines now only in what manner the kings or queenes of England
give publick audience to fforreigne ambassadours Either when they Come
in their first Entrance or at the tyme of their takeing Leave; but first
I may give account of our Bishops and Gentry. There is 26 Bishopricks
with the two Archbishops Canterbury and york and there are as many
Cittyes and Cathedralls which in my travells have described. All these
Bishopricks are held of the Crown and are Given by the king, to whome is
due the first fruites which is one yeares income of the Bishopricks.
They are held for Life, true jndeed they admit of being removed from one
Bishoprick to another for advancem^t, nay they may forfeit their
Bishoprick by not being qualify’d, if they will not sweare to be
faithfull to y^e government and so they may be suspended, as in y^e Case
of severall in the last revolution would not sweare to King William and
Queen Mary and so now refuse also to sweare to her present Majesty Queen
Ann. These Bishops are only Barrons in themselves, their wives have noe
honnour thereby nor their Children; but for all peeres of England theirs
is hereditary from father to son and their Ladies partake of it, nay y^e
honour descends on a daughter in default of male jssue. The peere must
first be made Barrons by which they hold all their priviledges—Barrons
of England—which is from y^e king by patent; all his Children are Called
y^e hon^{bl} adding the Christian name to their sirname, and this
remaines to daughters when marry’d. By this patent or another of y^e
same they may be Created viscount, Earles, Marquesses, dukes, and if
they are dukes their patent Expresses all the four other titles. Alsoe
viscounts Children are the same w^{th} Barrons; and Earle’s, marquess,
and duke’s are Called, the daughters Lady, by their Christian names,
before and after marriage, unless they marry a Barron then they Lose y^t
name and are Called a Barroness and so Loses their place. The Eldest son
of an Earle is Called Lord by his fathers title of Barron, the Eldest
son of a Marquiss is Called Earle, by the title of his fathers
Earledome, and all marquiss’s younger sons are Called Lord by their
Christian name added to their sirname. So the same of dukes Children,
the Eldest son is Called Marquiss. Now if any dowager to a Lord marry a
Private Gentleman she in Law is sullied and has Lost her peeress, so if
a Dutchess or Marquess or Countess or viscountess marry a Barron or
Either of the degrees which was below her, she Looses it and is only
Called as the Lady of the present peer She has marry’d now. Though these
titles be given the noblemens sons and Daughters its not that they are
really soe, for in our Law they are only Called and Esteemed in the
first ranke of Gentlemen, and so take place before all Gentlemen
w^tsoever. The Lower titles made by patents by y^e king is Barronets,
and is differenc’d only from a Knight by takeing place of all knights
and that it is hereditary and goes from father to son; a Knight only is
for his own Life and the king makes them thus: any Gentleman that is to
be made a knight kneeles down and y^e king draws his sword asking him
his Christian name, Layes the sword on his head and shoulder, and bids
him rise up sir such a one as for Example S^r James Bateman our Last
Sherriff &c. These severall titles and patents pays great fees to the
severall officers according to the ranke, a Duke cost £1000—, so in
proportion. Y^e same manner the Knights of the Garter are made as other
knights nevertheless it may be to those w^{ch} were dukes before. Their
jnstallment is at Windsor Castle, in this manner: the herraulds which I
have mentioned several tymes before as a part and management of all the
Cerimony, and also the persons that studdy all matters of honours and
are the Recorders of all the titles in England, and all their Coates of
armour, and knows and keepes Each in their ranke at all Cerimonyes, and
gives out their armes for Eschuteons at Every bodyes funeralls; they
have an office just by D^r Commons by S^t Pauls Cathedrall. There is one
Principal king at armes and 3 if not more other king at armes and other
under herraulds and Sergeants, which all weare Coates with the kings
armes all aboute it; these as I say officiates at the jnstalling for
they record it and add the blew garter about such a Lords atchievement.
Y^e Cerimony I have in part described together with y^e account of
Windsor.
* * * * *
Maulbery is in view at some distance from y^e adjacent hills and Lookes
very fine, with a good river that turns many mills. Its buildings are
good and Compact, one very Large streete where stands the market place
and town hall, and at Each end the two Churches, its of a great Length
jncludeing the two parishes, and the town stands itself on a high hill.
Beyond one of the Churches is the Duke of Sommersets house, has been a
greate Rambling building but now most pulled down and newly building,
they were painting it, good appartments for what is done but none
furnish’d, and its but one Wing and is built with drawing dineing roomes
and bed Chambers with Closets and dressing-roomes and two StairCases and
some roomes above, which is to have another such a wing on the other
side and Joyn’d with a Greate hall.
The only Curious thing is out of y^e bowling green. You go many stepps
down into a Grass-walke with quick sett hedges cut Low, this Leads to
the foote of the mount, and that you ascend from y^e Left hand by an
Easye ascent bounded by such quick sett hedges Cut Low, and soe you rise
by degrees in 4 rounds bounded by the Low Cutt hedge, and on the top is
with same hedge Cut in works, and from thence you have a prospect of y^e
town and Country round and two parishes two mile off in view, and the
Low Grounds are watered with ditches, and this mount is Encompass’d
about with such a Cannal which Emptys itself into a ffish pond, then it
Empts itself into the river. There is a house built over the ffish pond
to keep the ffish in. At the ffoote of the mount as I began out of a
Green walke on the Left hand to ascend it, so on the Right hand Leads to
another such a walke quite round by y^e Cannall to the other side of y^e
bowling-green. In the midst of y^e top of the mount was a house built
and pond but thats fallen down. Halfe way down is a seate opposite to
y^e dwelling house which is Brick’d. Maulbery is one of the towns in
Wiltshire y^e quarter sessions is kept in, its 8 mile to Hungerford over
Savernack Forrest where is many deer. Ffrom Hungerford to Newbury in
Barkshire 7 mile all very deep way, 15 mile thence to Reading in
Barkshire flatt way, but y^e vale is heavy sand for 3 or 4 mile. Reading
is the shire town, its pretty Large and accomodated for travellers being
a great Road to Gloucester and y^e West Country, but it is very dear.
From London to Rusbery 18 mile by Stanes—pretty house and gardens in
sight of Windsor in Buckinghamshire—thence Uxbridge 7 mile, pretty good
way, thence Amersham 9 mile all in the Alesbury road, thence
Barkminstead 6 Long miles, steep hills into Hartfordshire, a good market
town, good jnns, thence Dunstable 7 or 9 Long miles steep hills, thence
Arsly in Bedfordshire 10 mile, which I Entred at Astick 2 mile from
Arlsy, 2 good old houses of the Edwards and Browns, but this was base
way, narrow, and Lanes Rooty and Long. Thence Bedford town 9 miles good
way, a village in a mile or two distance, Hanlow, Clifton Sheford
Checkston and Bedford. Y^e great road Comes in good way, thence Turvoy 5
mile belonging to the Earle of Peterborough where he was.
They make much bonelace in these towns. In the Church are fine tombs and
monuments of that familly, the first with two Ladyes on Each side, he
higher, one in a widdows dress all marble finely Gilt and painted on a
bed, and Rowles of Matt very naturall at their head and feete. There was
another and the Lady dyed in Childbed the Child by her Costly Carved and
Gilt and 4 beadmen at the feete (he allowed for four old mens
maintenance), by it another and his Lady all rich marble Gilt and
painted.
Here I Enter Buckinghamshire againe over the Bridge, so to Northampton
10 mile over a pretty good road, and Entred the shire within 4 mile of
the town.
I describe nothing more of Northampton, but the Church was finish’d, the
Entrance with a breast wall and paved and stepps within round 3 sides of
the Church, which was begun w^n I was there before. So I proceeded on to
Litchfield very good way as Exactly straight as a Line, the Whatling
Streete way, but it was deep heavy ground as in all these Rich Countrys.
I passed between two noble seates, Homby on the Right hand on the side
of a hill in woods, stone buildings with towers almost Like a Castle,
old built, the rows of trees Exact on Each side and avenues, which is
Earle of Ffevershams. The other on the left hand Lay Low within a
thicket of wood on all sides but the front, where it appear’d Like a
Princes Court of Brick and Stone, very fine, Lord Sunderlands, with a
Large Parke walled in of a good Extent. Thus I went to a Bridge not very
Large of stone but it is the Boundary of three Countys.
I pass’d from Northampton into Leicestershire with Warwickshire on my
Left hand, and so went to a Rich Land, here it Lookes of a Redder Earth.
I Came to Cross wayes where was a Latterworth hand poynting 4 wayes to
Coventry, Leicester, London, and Litchfield, and some thing farther to
High Crosse which is Esteemed y^e middle of England, where the two great
Roads meete that divides the Kingdom in the Saxons tyme in 4 parts, the
Whatling Streete on which still I Continued, and the Ffosse way; thus to
a Little place Called Smockington, fitted for jnns, on a Road, very
Comodious. Here I Lay in Warwickshire 10 mile, thence 6 mile to Anderton
and Talmouth 7, where I Enter Staffordshire, soe Litchfield 6 mile,
thence Woolsly Eight, from thence to Budsworth, Lord Pagets in a ffine
Parke, Large Coale mines about it. The house is old but the front very
regular, 3 Juttings out, Large Compass windows, a good Little parlour,
out of the hall another Large one with drawing roome and bed Chamber and
good back staires and Entrys, Large Light fit for attendance. then you
go up and Enter a dineing roome, drawing roome and Chamber, a Long
gallery that is the Length of the house and broad, and which adds to its
greatness. The End opens doores on a terrass out in the garden of same
breadth and Length up to an orchard or wilderness which Lookes very
nobly. Here at Each End is two good Chambers of state, Lofty, with anty
Chambers and for servants and back staires. There are many very good
roomes of a second rate w^{ch} if well ffurnish’d would Look well. The
Leads are a greate many stepps up on the top, a Large Cupilow of
windows, and y^e walls round y^e Leads are so high a person of a middle
stature Cannot Look over them scarce when on tiptoe, which is a Greate
Lessening of its beauty w^{ch} would give a Large prospect round of the
Country of 10 or 12 miles off. There is an addition of new wall on the
battlements w^{ch} is visible so its Likely it was from some accident
from y^e Leads Enduced y^e walls being built higher. This Lord has a
greate Command and Royalty in the County, the Kank forrest of 20 mile is
his, most of y^e gentlemen in the County pay him Chiefe Rent and some
hold Right in some of their Land by waiteing on him on some solemn feast
dayes in the yeare, and bring up his dinner and waite on him as he
Eates, if then in the Country. But these things are better wav’d then
sought and is not done few tymes in an age to keep up the Custom.
Ffrom Woolsly after an 8 weekes stay I went to Wolverhampton 11 long
mile, then to Church-hill neare Sturbridge 9 or 10 mile farther, by the
many Glasshouses where they Blow Broad Glass, but they were not at work
on that sort when I was there. At Church-hill was at a farmer Like a
Gentleman’s, a new pretty house of brick, but wanted ffurniture and
Cleaneing and good order, but a hearty M^r and M^{rs}. The hill is
pretty high and gives a great view of the Country which most belongs to
M^r Foley-Tom of 10,000^£—Large Comonage, there he has a Little Lodge,
new brick; his own house is 6 or 10 mile thence all within his own
grounds, and has great jron works and mines, this is within two mile of
Kederminster, as farre on the other side to Sturbridge. Thence I went to
Worcester town a sandy way, and here are in some places quicksands. This
is a 10 Long mile to Worcester but pretty flatt way for the most part,
thence to Newhouse 12 or 14, the basest way for hills, stony narrow
hollow wayes very difficult to pass.
I went from Newhouse to Stoake four miles, M^r Foley’s the speaker’s son
has a very fine pile of building, the wing to Herreford being now up in
the Shell, which is all for state, great parlour, drawing roome, and bed
Chambers, with their appendixes and backstaires, and a great staircase
with Chambers over for state. This is Entred into out of the Greate
hall, the middle of the house raiseing many stepps out of the Court, the
Entrance to which on Each side has buildings uniform for Coach house
stables, dairy out houses. The wing to the garden side is finish’d,
being their appartment, a pretty staircase that two Easily go up, light
from the Skye, jron railes and barristers, this from an arch jsle below
which goes to the kitchen, and hath a doore into this front Court and
into the gate backward, tho’ not visible on the garden side by y^e
disguise of painting. From this you ascend these staires to the dineing
roome which is Even to the great hall and must Enter from it when
ffinish’d. Out of this on the Right hand was M^r Paul Folie’s the
father’s studdy, long and Large, with back staires and a servants roome.
On the Left hand is a drawing roome, beyond his Ladys bed Chamber,
Closet and Servants roome, and next it are these staires of jron Railes
that goes up to the next stage, which is over this same wing and is the
appartment of the young M^r Folie and his Lady which now is the heir and
in possession.
There is their Chamber, her fine Closet, a servants roome and a Large
studdy for him; there is also two Large Chambers for strangers which
takes the whole wing over the dineing roome and studdy. There is also a
Little roome at the end for strangers opposite to M^r folie’s roome
which Lookes to the front. This dineing roome is what they Eate in
allwayes—is well wanscoated. There is a fountaine bason just faceing y^e
balcony doore that Leads to a terrass paved with black and white marble
and jron palisadoes; it has a long space and broad for walking and two
Enclosed on Each side by same jron work a step up or two these doores
from y^e Ladies Closet and the Studdy, out on them in the middle goes
the staires two wayes, all jron work, and meete halfe way and Joyne in
y^e next descent on Gravel, which is in a halfe moon and so design’d to
be Left in a Low place with a Cascade beneath, and the Gravell walke and
grass walks to go by it and beyond it in many rows of trees. The walled
Gardens and walks one below another. This terrass gives a vast prospect
of the Country, it being scituated on the ascent of a hill. Many rows of
trees in Meadows below it adds to its beauty being all within his own
Ground, he has a Great Estate and a Great parke up above it with Great
woods. The adornment of the Rooffe is flower potts and ffigures Globes
and Scallop shells, it will be noble Compleate buildings and deserves
10000^£ a yeare to Live Like it.
The offices are all below and Even with the first Entrance of the
ffront, what is ffinished is neate good wanscoate and tapistry, there is
two or three damaske beds and one velvet one what they had before, so
noe new ffurniture but y^e best wing noe doubt will be finely finish’d
and furnish’d. The prospect is Large and jndeed to view, at Least in the
summer and in Drye tyme, Herrifordshire is Like a fruitfull Garden. Near
Richards Castle is the Bone well a fountain alway full of ffish and
ffroggs bones tho’ often Cleared of them yet still renewed.
Ffrom Newhouse I Came over Maubern Hills which are Like the Alps and
have had much wet, the roads deep and difficult, to upton in Worcester
10 mile, where I pass the severn on a stone bridge—here it is not broad.
Thence Pursha 5 mile, thence Esham 4 and Weston 4, in Glocestershire to
my Cos’n Ffiennes, thence to Morton Hindmost up a vast stony high
hazardous hill of neare two mile Long ascending all the way from
Weston—this is in sight of Cambden—so to Morton, 6 miles down as steep a
stony hill 2 mile before I Came to my aunts. Thence to Broughton in
Oxfordshire passing by 4 shires stone—Warwick, Worcester, Glocester and
Oxfordshire, and so by Kingston; thence to oxford 18, Abbington where is
a fine town Hall for the Judges, two barrs and all seates aboute set on
stone pillars, the staires to the top is about 100, y^e Leads fine and
gives a Large prospect all about. There is halfe way the staires, a
place to go in and in Gallerys round Company may stand to heare Causes
all above the Judges heads—this is Buckinghamshire. Then to Newbery by
Market Hillsly its 16 mile, which town has been famous for whipps and
presents a King or Queen when they pass through it with one of great
price and also w^{th} a purse of Gold. From thence to Way hill through
Lanes and woods 14 mile, this is in Hampshire, thence to Newtontony in
Wiltshire 6 mile.
Some account of Epsome in Surrey about ten miles from London. Its on
Clay and Gravel, the waters are from Alum. The well is Large without
Bason or Pavement, on the bottom it is Covered over with timber and is
so darke you Can scarce Look down into it for which Cause I do dislike
it. Its not a quick spring and very often is dranke drye, and to make up
the defficiency the people do often carry water from Common wells to
fill this in a morning; this they have been found out in which makes the
water weake and of Little opperation unless you Can have it first from
the well before they Can have put in any other. The usual way of
drinking them is by turning them with a Little milk. There is a walk of
trees by it, but not very pleasant, there is a house built in which the
well is and that is paved with brick to walke in in the wet weather, and
where people have Carrawayes sweetemeates and tea &c, but it Look’d so
dark and unpleasant more Like a Dungeon, y^t I would not Chuse to drinke
it there, and most people drink it at home. There are severall good
Buildings in Epsome for Lodgings and good Gardens behind them for
walking. There is a good house of the L^d Bartlets in a parke at the End
of the town Looks very well. The Greatest pleasure of Emson is Either
Banstead Downs where is good aire and good rideing for Coaches and
horses, with a pleasant view of y^e Country, or Else Box Hill which is 6
or 7 miles off and is the Continuation of the Ridge of hills I mentiond
by Maidstone; its a Greate height and shows you a vast precipice down on
the farther side, and such a vast vale full of woods Enclosures and
Little towns. There is a very good river that runs by a Little town
Called Darken just at the foote of this hill, very famous for good
troutts and great store of ffish. On this hill the top is Cover’d with
box whence its name proceeds, and there is other wood but its all Cutt
in Long private walks very shady and pleasant, and this is a great
diversion to the Company and would be more ffrequented if nearer Epsom
town.
About 4 miles off is S^r Robert Howards house which I went to see, its a
Square building, the yards and offices very Convenient about it, and
severall Gardens walled in. All the windows are sashes and Large squares
of glass; I observ’d they are double sashes to make y^e house the
warmer, for it Stands pretty bleake. Its a brick building. You Enter a
hall which opens to the Garden, thence to two parlours, drawing-roomes
and good staires, there are abundance of Pictures, above is a Dineing
roome and drawing roome with very good tapistry-hangings of Long
standing. There is severall bed Chambers well ffurnish’d, good damaske
beds and hangings and window Curtaines of the same, and so neatly kept
ffolded up in Clean sheets pinn’d about the beds and hangings. There are
severall other good beds and ffurniture, one roome all y^e bed and
hangings are of a fine damaske made of worsted, it Lookes pretty and
with a Gloss Like Camlett, of a Light Ash Coullour. There are good
pictures of the family, S^r Robert’s Son and Lady, which was a Daughter
of the Newport house, with her Children in a very Large Picture. There
is fine adornements of Glass on the Chimney and fine marble Chimney
pieces, some Closets with Inlaid floores, its all very neate and fine
with the several Courts at the Entrance—this I thinke was all remarkable
at Epsome which is 14 mile to London.
Another Journey to Broughton in Oxfordshire, my brother’s, and now my
nephew’s house, the Lord Say and Seale. I went by Hartfordshire and
Bedford from London to Wane 20 mile, thence to Hitching 14 miles, most
in Lanes and deep Land, and in the winter bad Roads, but very good
Land—good Corn—the wheate Look’d well but Grass and Summer Corn wanted
rain, being a drye Spring. Thence to Bedford town 12 mile more, these
miles are Longer than those about London and much in Lanes and woods.
Bedford town is an old Building, its wash’d by the river Ouse which
Comes from Buckingham and is here Broader than in most places till it
reaches Yorke; its stored with very good ffish and those which have
Gardens on its brinke keepes sort of trunck or what they Call them. Its
a Receptacle of wood of a pretty size full of holes to Let the water in
and out, here they keep the ffish they Catch as pike, perch, tench &c,
so they have it readye for their use, this is of mighty advantage
Especially for the Publick houses—you see the ffish taken out ffresh for
supper or dinner. The river runns twineing about and runns into severall
notches of Ground w^{ch} is sett full of willows, and many Little boates
Chained to the sides belonging to y^e people of the town for their
diversion. It runns by a Ground which is made into a fine bowling-green,
its upon a hill and a pretty ascent from the river that is besett with
willows all round beneath; y^e bowling green is well kept with Seates
and summer houses in it for the use of the town and Country Gentlemen of
which many resort to it Especially the market dayes. At the Entrance of
the town you pass over y^e river on a bridge which has a gate on it and
some houses—this river beares barges. These truncks or Baskets which
keepes the ffish are ffastned by Chaines to the sides of the Banks in
each mans Garden. There is nothing worth notice in the town, severall
streetes small and old, the middle streete which runns from y^e Bridge
is pretty broad, wherein stands y^e market place and house which is on
severall stone pillars and raill’d in. There is above it roomes which
were design’d for the session and publick Buissness of the town by the
Lord Russell that built it, but his untimely death, being beheaded, put
a stop to its ffinishing. They now put it to noe use but spinning
haveing begun to set up the woollen worke, but its Just in its Infancy.
Over this is the top which is flatt rooff’d Leaded and railed in, from
thence you see the whole town and Country round.
There is a pretty many Gentry about y^e Country neare neighbours, and
many Live in the town tho’ in such old houses. From thence I went to
Asply 8 mile where the Earth turns wood into stone and had a piece of
it; it seemes its only one sort of wood the Aldertree which turns so,
and Lay or drive a paile or Stake into the ground there in seven yeares
its petrify’d into stone, from thence to Onborn w^{ch} is 3 mile more.
Here is the Duke of Bedfords house which I had seen before with the fine
Gardens and parke, so proceeded on to Dunstable 9 miles ffarther where I
staid and dined with my kinswoman my aunt Woolsley’s Daughter marry’d to
a D^r of physick D^r Marsh, and from thence I went to Laighton Buserd
and thence to Whinslow about 12 mile—this is in Buckinghamshire—thence
to Broughton in Oxfordshire 17 mile, and staid a weeke and then returned
through oxfford Citty 18 mile, and so to London 48 mile more.
_A FURTHER DESCRIPTION OF EPSOME HAMPTON COURT AND WINDSOR_
Epsom is 15 miles from London, there are great curiosityes in cut hedges
and trees almost before all doores. They have trees in rows which they
cut up smooth and about 3 or 4 yards up, they Lay frames of wood in
manner of a pent house, so plat the branches on it and cuts it smooth,
they leave the stem of the tree to run up and then cut it clear to the
top w^{ch} they cut in round heads. There are severall good houses in or
about Epsham—S^r Rob^t Howard’s w^{ch} I have described, M^r Wessell’s
now M^r Scawen’s. There is Lord Baltimores in Woodcut Green Encompass’d
w^{th} a wall at the Entrance—a breast wall with pallisadoes. Large
courts one within the other and a back way to y^e stables where is a
pretty horse pond. The house is old but Low, tho’ Large,—run over much
ground. In ffront 6 windows and in the top just in the middle 12
Chimneys in a row, being 3 and 3 below Joyning back to back and 3 and 3
above; the others Looke into a Court w^{ch} is built round. As I drove
by the side saw broad Chimneys on the End, and at due distance on the
side on both Ends y^e sides of a Court, w^{ch} is terminated in a
building on w^{ch} is a Lead w^{th} railes and Barristers.
That house which is now Lord Guilfords at another side of Epsham, Lookes
nobly in a fine parke pailed round. Severall rows of trees in the front
of all sorts—Lofty, and some cut Piramidy, some suger-Loafe or rather
Like a mushrom-top. The front has 6 Large windows and the doore w^{ch}
is glass, as many on the next story. You Enter by a Large Court w^{ch}
is on y^e Left side—Stable court; to the right into y^e Gardens, fore
right you Enter a broad tarass railed in and Paved with stone, you enter
a noble Lofty hall, plaine but neate, painted white. On y^e right is a
Little parlour, the lesser hall hung w^{th} armes, a butler’s office,
with bedchambers and Closets, thence goes y^e Kitchen, schullery,
bakeing room and Laundry into a Court of all y^e offices and the stable
yard. Out of y^e Little parlour goes into a pretty Chappel which has a
balcony closet looking into it for the Lord and Lady.
The Left hand of y^e hall Led into a great parlour w^{ch} runnes to the
End of the house, and makes the ffront, and short again into another
great parlour or dineing roome which makes y^e End ffront of the house;
this also opens into y^e staircase, it Leads on to a drawing roome,
Closet, bed Chamber, two dressing roomes, w^{ch} with y^e great
staircase makes up y^e ffront backward and the other End ffront, w^{ch}
Lookes into y^e stable yard and a garden railed in w^{th} a Large pond
or Cannall. The back ffront goes out into a garden or Court w^{th}
Gravel walks round, and a Crosse w^{ch} cuts it into 4 grassplotts where
are Brass statues, and Leads out through fine jron Carved gates as at
the ffront out into y^e highway. The right End ffront of y^e house is
into y^e Garden. Out of both of y^e great parlours and drawing roome two
Entrances at an Equal distance upon gravell walks. This garden is
gravell’d round. Y^e two middle walks run up to a double mount which
cast the garden into 3 Long grass walks w^{ch} also are very broad,
w^{th} 3 flower potts. There are two degrees of stepps to Each of these
Gravell walks, the first lands on a Gravell that turns in a 3 side
square w^{ch} shapes y^e upper mount. The Long gravell walke to y^e
right hand runns aCrosse the mount to a thicket that Enters y^e Grove
and is Lost. The other to the Left runns up the whole Length of y^e
grove up to white gates and open views into y^e parke. The two Ends of
the Little square gravel walke round the first mount terminates on the
right in same thicket or Grove, and has only for show a Carved frame as
a gate, w^{th} wood carv’d Like Cage work painted white, with an arch
Entrance in the middle for form sake, to make it Look uniforme to the
Like on y^e Left, w^{ch} Leads to a walk as Long as the Gravell up to
the wall, and is directly arbour. Like high trees, Cut up to the top and
with heads which close in an arch—in the middle is Long white seates.
There are two or three Lesser walks w^{ch} run across it to y^e right
into the Grove and Lost in the maze; to the Left to another Long walk
w^{ch} Leads to a Grotto and runs parralel w^{th} y^e gravel walke to
the top. You Enter a space paved and open arch’d round in seates like a
Court, and thence you Enter the Grotto, an arch Entirely dark but at the
Entrance it is so Large as 6 arched seates, and between carv’d stone
very fine of all sorts of flowers, ffigures, ffruites; y^e Pillars or
Peers pretty broad. this ran up to a sumerhouse at the End, w^{ch} is
grown over with greens cut smooth—windows all round. Below this is a
broad green walke w^{ch} begins at the first Garden and so continues
round w^{th} y^e wall quite to that broad Gravel walke, and is continued
by y^e wall quite Encompassing y^e maze, in w^{ch} are some slaunt cut
wayes, and it terminates in the other side of the first Garden just by a
garden railed in in which is a Large pond, square in nature of a
cannall, the bank green Cut fine, and borders for flowers and greens,
and a Breast wall to the first Garden, on w^{ch} are flower potts. On
the upper mount—all the grass and bank Even cut—Stands 4 flower potts
painted blew—Some red on y^e 3 divisions—y^e gravell Cut out as on the
Margin.
Ffrom the Hall you go to y^e staircase, there is also a doore out of the
second parlour. This is noble and Lofty all plain wanscoate, only y^e
halfe paces inlaid. The first is a window the whole height, 13 Large
pannells in Length, 5 in breadth, which Lookes into one of the Courts
where the pond is and stable yard. The next half pace Leads you on y^e
Left hand to the private appartment that is not so Lofty, over y^e Least
hall to an anty roome, thence a dineing roome, soe drawing roome 5 bed
Chambers and Closetts. The Last Closett goes into a balcony w^{ch} runs
aCross y^e middle of said Lofty window, and Looks into the staircase.
Out of y^e Eating or dineing roome goes a Closett for y^e Ladyes into
y^e Chappell w^{th} very good back staires up to y^e top roomes. Y^e
great staires continues up to the Gallery and turns in a long halfe
pace, w^{ch} Enters it at two doores in Equal distances. Its a Lofty,
Large as well as Long roome, noe painting or frettwork. At Each End are
severall handsome bedChambers and Closetts but none ffurnish’d, but y^e
private appartments has pladd Chamlet damaske neatly made up, not new,
Glass sconces, and over the Chimney, looking glasses in frames. The
parke is fine but not stock’d, w^{ch} when it is and house ffurnish’d
will be a noble seate.
There is another house of M^r Ruths who married Lady Dennagall is new
and neate. The Entrance is a space the breadth of y^e Court and ffront,
rail’d in and opening in y^e middle w^{th} sort of wicket, two such at
Each End w^{th} heavye Latches to pull up, and the gate swings both
wayes. There is a brick wall w^{th} peers and breast high, and jron
pallisadoes of a good breadth Each side the gate, w^{ch} is Carv’d jron
work w^{th} a Deer on the top of a Cypher, and an oaken tree Cut a top;
the two first peers are w^{th} Great flower potts, those on y^e Peeres
Each side y^e jron works Lesser flower potts. Beyond are the gates into
the coach yard, w^{ch} with the Stables is a neate Pile of Buildings by
it self. Just on y^e other side is such a building the kitchen and
offices and little Laundry Court, and here is the back Entrance through
a Long brick Entry open on one side, but a wall to y^e Court side and
house, and Enters into a passage that Leads to a little hall brick’t,
w^{th} roomes for y^e buttler and a batheing roome. By it is a Large
hall paved w^{th} stone and thence is one way into the garden. Under the
staires and balcony that descends from y^e dineing roome in y^e first
passage are staires w^{ch} brings to a space that turns up to the Great
staires and roomes.
The ffront Entrance is into a handsome Court, one Large paved walke in
the middle between Grass, the borders round of flowers, y^e wall w^{th}
trees. You ascend some stepps to a broad terrass paved and with a breast
wall sett w^{th} flower potts. This is the breadth of the house and at
Each End two Large white seates w^{th} arches over y^e head. You Enter a
step or two to this space w^{ch} Leads to y^e staires on y^e Left to a
little parlour wanscoted, white in veines and gold mouldings, a neat
Booffett ffurnish’d with Glasses and china for the table, a Cistern
below into which the water turn’d from a Cock, and a hole at bottom to
Let it out at pleasure. W^{th} in this roome was a Large Closet or
musick roome, on the other side was a dineing room w^{th} a balcony door
w^{ch} has staires to y^e garden in a round with half paces and jron
railes. Thence is a drawing roome, beyond that a Closet that comes out
into a little passage to the staircase, w^{ch} is Large and makes the
fourth part of the house; they are wanscoate varnish’d and the Lower
step or two Larger, and y^e other End is in a turn. The half paces are
strip’d, the wood put w^{th} y^e Graine, the next slip against the
Graine, w^{ch} makes it Looke pretty as if Inlaid.
You Enter one roome hung with Crosstitch in silks, the bed the same
Lined w^{th} yellow and white strip’d sattin, window Curtaines white
silk damaske w^{th} furbellows of Callicoe printed flowers, the Chaires
Crosstitch and two stooles of yellow Mohaire w^{th} Crostitch, true
Lower knotts in straps along and a Cross, an Elbow Chaire tentstitch;
Glasses over all y^e Chimneys and Marble pieces. The windows in all the
roomes had Cusheons. The next roome was Lady Dennagalls Chamber and
Closet hung w^{th} very rich tapistry, the bed Crimson damaske Lined
w^{th} white Jndia sattin, w^{th} Gold and Crimson flowers printed; the
Chaires, one red damaske, the other Crostitch and tentstitch very Rich,
soe round the roome. The Closet, Green damaske Chaires, and many fine
pictures under Glasses, of tentstitch sattin stitch Gumm and strawwork,
also jndia flowers birds &c. The roome over the Little parlour was
M^{rs} Ruths, a pladd bed Lined w^{th} Jndian Callicoe, and an Jndia
Carpet on the bed—w^{th} in was her Closet. Over this are good Garretts
and staires to the Leads w^{ch} shews you all about the town.
The first garden is square, the walls full of trees and nail’d neate, an
apricote, peach, plumb, necktarine, w^{ch} spread but not very high;
between Each is a cherry stript up to the top and spreads, Composeing an
arch over the others. There are borders of flowers round and a handsome
Gravel round. The Grass plott is Large; in the middle a little Gravel in
an oval or round, where is a Large fountain of stone full of stone
Images to spout the water. This Garden is the breadth of the dwelleing
house—the dineing roome and drawing roome Looke into it.
Out of this (which is ffenced by a breast wall w^{th} jron pallasadoes
painted blew w^{th} Gilt topp) you ascend severall stepps through an
jronwork’d gate to a ground divided into Long grass walks, severall of
w^{ch} ascends y^e hill and between the Ground improv’d w^{th} Dwarfe
trees of ffruite and flowers and greenes in all shapes, intermixt w^{th}
beds of strawberyes for ornament and use. Thus to another bank w^{th}
stepps to a Green Cross walke, and then more trees and devices. Thence
to two mounts cut smoothe—between is a Cannall. These mounts are
severall stepps up under which are jce houses; they are a square fflatt
on the top ffenced with banks round and seates, beyond which is a summer
house in a tree, which shews a great way off the Country. There are Low
Cut hedges on Each bank, and painted sticks w^{th} Gilt tops in y^e
greens and flower potts, and thus is one terrass above another. Over
their stables are Chambers for y^e men, over the Kitchen and Dairy and
buttery and scullery are roomes for Laundry, and for the maids.
S^r Thomas Cooke’s house has such an Enclosed walk before the gate,
w^{th} swinging gates at Each End and a Larger in the middle.
Without it is a Row of oakes w^{th} thick heads w^{ch} makes it very
shady. You Enter a Close gate into a Court, w^{th} a broad paved walk
between two Large Grass-plotts, besett w^{th} Green Cyprus yew and holly
in Piramids, and two Large Statues in the middle, the wall Clothed
w^{th} box holly filleroy cut even. The ffront is two juttings out at
the Ends flatt in the middle Like a half Roman H. You Rise a step or two
into a good Hall pav’d w^{th} black and white marble, the sides painted
black and white resembling nitches or arches for seates. On the Right
hand is a good Dineing roome wanscoated oake without varnish, the
pannell Large, and within a drawing roome w^{ch} Lookes into the garden,
wanscoated. Over, Right, another square one. Between these runs an
Entry, where in are Closets, and y^e Butlers office, to y^e Kitchen and
offices, into y^e Stable, Coach yard and into a Laundry Court. In the
Middle ffronting y^e Entrance is a Door into y^e garden. Just by is a
Servants hall and way to y^e Cellars under. The Great Staires noble and
Lofty, all wanscoate, hung w^{th} very good pictures. Above in the
rooffe is frettwork and an oval Curiously painted with angells and
ffigures.
Here are two very Good appartments, bed Chambers dressing-roome, Closets
and presses; besides there are two other good Chambers w^{th} Closets,
and one Large roome—y^e frame of y^e Chimney piece carv’d with all
variety of fruites, herbes &c painted proper and all hollow work. Very
good Pictures in all y^e roomes over Chimneys and doores, all fix’d into
y^e wanscoate,—noe ffurniture. There is a very good p^r of back staires
goes hence up to y^e Garret’s, one very Large, 6 other, besides Little
room. There you ascend into a Cupilow, windows round shews a vast
prospect of the place; from thence you may descend another such a good
p^r of back staires to y^e kitchen. The Garden is in forme as M^r Ruth’s
first flatt, but Larger, w^{th} a Larger fountaine, walled in w^{th}
ffree stone, a pedistal w^{th} Little Cupids and Dolphins and shells on
w^{ch} are Images, and on y^e top a Crown made all to spout out water.
The walls full of fruite, in y^e middle you ascend severall stepps to a
bank on w^{ch} are jron painted pallasadoes w^{th} Gilt top; gates to
the same. Here is a Large square w^{th} green walks and gravell and
ovall in the middle, with devices of Little paths of gravell to Cut the
grass into shapes, squares and 3 squares. In the middle stands a
Gladiator on a pedistal, and on y^e walls are Cupids at each riseing of
the walls for the bank. On the Left side is a summer house w^{th} paints
of the seasons of y^e yeare. Thence into another Garden for kitchen
stuff and hott beds, with convenient houses. From this great fflatt you
ascend severall stepps at three places—equal distance, and then Long
green walks between borders of strawberies, dwarf trees, and some w^{th}
green squares sett with Cyprus, Mirtle, yew, Holly cut fine and flowers,
thus three severall bancks, the spaces so adorn’d. Then you pass on to a
long green walke, the Right side or End is a fine summer house, the bank
all along guarded with dwarffe trees; the other to y^e field side rowes
of tall walnuts, with quick sett hedges cutt. This Carryes on not only
the breadth of the house but the Length of the whole ground, w^{ch} is
for y^e other garden for use; and just at the End of the pleasure garden
begins a Large and Long pond or Cannall—y^e Length of the walke, w^{ch}
is its bank cut fine. There is another great pond on the Right side of
the house, and two more in the grounds belonging to it on the Left.
M^{rs} Steeven has a very pretty neate house and gardens, before the
doore is a part railed in as before, only this is Close at Each end
w^{th} high wall and seates. In the middle is a gate w^{ch} Leads to the
gate of the Court, grass walled round, a broad pavement to the house,
and round Stepps—4 or 5. You Enter into a passage w^{ch} Leads to a
little parlour, thence a step or two down to an Entry, w^{ch} Leads away
to a Little Court or passage, which runs to the streete and back to y^e
garden.
On one side is a building, a summer parlour for a still roome, w^{th}
brick kitchen and offices and Coach house and stables, w^{th} Chambers
over for the men. There is in the first parlour a Large Closet, on the
Left is a Large parlour and drawing-roome, all very neate and well
wanscoated. Under the staircase is a little roome for a butler, thence
the staires to the Cellars; this is between the back staires w^{ch} are
very good and light, and wanscoated up to the garrets, and the great
staires w^{ch} are very handsome painted white, the Rooffe an oval of
Cupids. Here are two handsome Chambers with dressing-roomes and light
and dark Closets and presses. Next floore is to such appartments againe.
Over all are three good Garrets and two roomes for stores, and it is
sashed up to the top w^{th} Low windows to sit in. Every Corner is
improved for Cupboards and necessarys, and the doores to them made
suiteable to y^e wanscoate. The garden goes out opposite to y^e Entrance
the walls full of all fruite neately kept. Here are six Grass walks
three and three, guarded w^{th} dwarfe fruite trees, a Large gravell
walk round by the wall, and gravell between Each Grass walk. The front
is a breast wall w^{th} a yew hedge cut neate, and jron pallisadoes
painten and Gilt tops, with gates Leading to another Garden of grass Cut
in shapes and knotts, w^{th} flowers and all sorts of greens cut in
shapes, w^{th} paths of Gravel to fform them. On the Left side a
Coddling hedge secured a walke of orange and Lemmon trees in perfection.
This is Closed with a green house all the breadth of the garden, through
w^{ch} you Enter another of fflowers; thence into orchard and kitchen
garden w^{ch} is Cast in Exact forms to Look neate. In the green Garden
was Large alloes plants and all sorts of Perpetualls as well as
annualls.
There are abundance of houses built of brick, with fine gardens and
Courts, w^{th} open gates and railes to view, w^{ch} are used as
Lodgings for the Company; and now the wells are built about, and a Large
Light roome to walk in brick’d, and a pump put on the well. A Coffee
house and two roomes for gameing, and shops for sweetmeates and fruite.
Monday morning is their day, the Company meete and then they have some
Little diversion, as raceing of boys or Rabbets or Piggs. In the Evening
the company meete in the Greenes, first in the upper Green many steps
up, where are Gentlemen Bowling, Ladyes walking. There are Little Shopps
and a gameing or danceing roome, the same man at the wells keepes it,
sells Coffee there also. The Lower green is not farr off—just in the
heart of the town: its a much neater green and warmer. The whole side of
this is a very Large roome w^{th} Large sashe windows to the green,
w^{th} Cusheons in the windows and seates all along. There are two
hazard boards; at the End is a Milliner and China Shop, this is
belonging to the Great tavern or Eateing house, and all the Length of
this roome to the street ward is a Piaza wall, and a row of trees Cutt
and platted together as the ffashion of the place, w^{th} tops running
up a top with heads. The Crosse in the Streete has a Good Clock.
On the hill where is the race posts they have made a ring as in Hide
Parke, and they Come in Coaches and drive round, but it is only Lords
day nights and some nights. There has been 40 Coaches and six which are
the Gentlemen in the County round, and 20 and 2 horses. The Company in
y^e town Epshum shall be Clutter’d w^{th} Company from Satturday to
Tuesday and then they many times goe, being so neare London, so come
againe on more Satturdays.
Ffrom Epsham I went to Banstead where the parson of the Parish has
diverted himself in his garden these fifty yeares, is now old and
doates, but has Curious hedges, one Garden w^{th} Grass plotts and Earth
walks Cut and wedd. His grass plotts has stones of divers fformes and
sizes which he names Gods and Goddesses; and hedges and arbours of thorn
soe neately Cut, and in all ffigures in great rounds. One is a Large
arbour: You Enter a straite passage as unto a Cell, but within a roome,
round y^t by a narrow Entry you Come to a Large Square with trees and
seates, all quick sett hedges cut fine. One is a tree w^{ch} the ivy has
Covered and there are staires up directly upright, and on y^e top is an
Eight square Bench—round, the Green grows up Close about it cut even,
this he Calls “Tenneriff” being in that fform. Next it is another tree,
there is a fflatt and on it is a table or stoole on w^{ch} is a Great
white stone in form of some statue that apole w^{th} 9 stones round less
the muses—this is Parnassus. There are severall heads painted w^{ch} are
named Mogul Grand Seignior, Cham of Tartary, Zarr of Muscovy, placed in
severall places. Another Garden is Grass plotts w^{th} yews and holly
Lawrells, round this on the bank is sett stones very thick, some very
much bigger for officers, this is the whole Confederate army and their
Generalls. Here is a trumpeter, Hercules and Bacchus and a hedge of
Lawrell 7 foote broad. Here are also two trees Cover’d with Ivy and
thorne Cut smooth and made in ffashion of two great pillars for Hercules
pillars. There is in y^e middle some platted together and makes a Cover
to a seate below, and there is a Rose Cut out—you may talk as under the
Rose. In his house he has many Curiosetyes of stones, one like a brick
of bread, another Like a shoulder of mutton, a piece of wood from an old
tree as Like a mounteer capp w^{th} a button on the top, another like a
furbellow’d peticoat, another stone like an apple paired and a piece Cut
out and grown Deadish—its said this is Petrify’d into stone as the moss
in Knarsborough and the wood at Apsley in Bedfordshire; here were many
Shells, Birds, jndian shoes, bootes, purses &c.
Ffrom Epsham to Leatherhead 3 mile, we pass by S^r Robert Howards which
I have described. Here is a little town where they make much Leather,
and other little trades, many Butchers which supply Epsham. Here it is
that the water which sinks away at Swallow hole at Mole under Box Hill
which is 7 mile off, and here it Bubbles up in twenty places from a
hill, and Compases a great river half a mile off, over which a long
bridge of 14 great arches of stone by their Height shews sometimes the
water to be very deep. A little farther its so deep as cannot be
fforded, here the Channell is not so broad, only four Large Arches. We
goe over thence a mile and halfe to M^r Moores ffine house on a hill,
its built w^{th} brick and stone Coyned, and the windows Stone, nine
sashes to the Garden; the jutting out in the middle is three windows.
The top is in a peak painted frisco, and a Cornish round on Each side; a
low building Each End Like Wings w^{th} same Cornish Leaded and flower
potts on it, w^{ch} are the offices on one Side, and Lead to a summer
House and backward to the private Entrance, a Court y^t you ascend by
steps of stone and jron barristers with turnings and halfe paces to the
part of y^e house in Constant use. The ffront in the Entrance is as the
Garden, only here are but Eight windows, only two in the middle jutting
the top, and that here you see not those two Low wings. You Enter by the
Church yard, noe great Court or roome for it, a very Little court w^{ch}
on the right hand Leads into y^e garden on a banck green walke, to a
seate or summer house finely painted and stands on four pillars. Within
this Leads into a gravel walk w^{ch} goes round y^e first Garden. The
summer house you might pass through to the same green banck walk, which
Leads to a broad Grass walk on the right hand up the hill near a quarter
of a mile, Each side planted w^{th} trees, and y^e ground some for
kitchen gardens orchards hott beds. The top of the hill has two white
seates and a summer house, this has white open gates, Large as the walk.
Here is a very fine pond runs across the breadth of the gardens and
orchards. The Garden at the house is all flatt, much in Grass walks and
bancks sett w^{th} green, most yews. There is a great gravel walk to the
fountain from the middle of the house, w^{ch} is filled by a Long
Cannall as broad as the walk; at the farther End is a trion gilt, with a
horn w^{ch} can blow the water 20 yards. Here are seates on the bancks,
and y^e ground is set much in Grass walks w^{th} dwarfe greens, which
Cutts the grass plotts into four, which are Cutt into fflower deluces
and Severall Devices w^{th} paths of Gravell, borders of mould, in which
are greens of all sorts, Piramids and then round jnterchangeable. Beyond
this is another space as Large, w^{th} a round space w^{th} a Large
stone ffigure, and severall Less ffigures of brass in the little squares
and strapps of grass, w^{ch} was fform’d by Cross and round gravell
walks. There is two broad Gravell walks runns aslaunt like two wings
from the first garden, as it were parrallel w^{th} the Cannall, and
these terminate in a wood w^{ch} has a Glide through trees Cut aslant,
agreable to the walks to give the view quite to Hampton town.
* * * * *
Thence to Hampton Court by Kingston 6 mile, all by the park, the palace
Enters just by the Thames. On the gate is Lyon, Unicorn and fflower
potts, the Starre and garter and Draggon y^e thistle and rose Carv’d.
Here is a space where the Stables on one side and houses for suttlers
for to provide for the servants. The front is in a Demy Circle—At the
gates four towers of Brick. Beyond the half moone are two straite
buildings in w^{ch} are gates, at the Ends two such brick towers, soe
you Enter through those four towers. The guard Court on the Left goes to
y^e old Buildings. On the Right you enter a long paved Entry; on one
side are Lodgings, at the End are Cloysters round a Court which has a
Large ffountaine in Grass, and at Each Corner a painted post for balls
or Statues. The grass is planted round with Lawrell and yew, ffilleroy
and Cyprus, cut a round head, and a Piramid. The Cloysters Lead to the
royal Staircase which is very Lofty and spacious w^{th} arches for
seates, the steps jron railes Carv’d and gilt, the wall black and gold
painted w^{th} armory like a wanscoate. Over that is Curious paintings,
the twelve Cæsars, over that the banquet of the Gods, all at Length,
with Ceres over y^e side board w^{th} plenty. The rooffe is angells and
Cherubims, the ffront on the halfe pace is Julian and the spectre that
appear’d to him, in a tent of green, the Curtain drawn soe bold as if
real w^{th} gold ffringe. Here you Enter y^e guard Chamber adorn’d with
pikes, Halberts, Biounetts Daggers and Pistolls and gunns, w^{th}
Bandeleers or pouches for amunition, all set in workes and ffigures
about the Wanscoate, over y^e Chimney Pistolls and Daggers sett like the
starre in the garter. Thence you go into an anty room hung w^{th}
tapestry, thence into y^e Common audience roome where was a throne and
Cannopy, crimson Damaske with Gold ffringe; the form the same round the
roome. Here was King Charles y^e firsts Picture on horseback over the
mantlepiece. All the rooffes of the roomes are Curiosly painted w^{th}
different storyes. Out of this you Enter the Grand state roome which has
King Williams Picture at Length on the Mantlepiece, ffine Pictures over
all doores and Carvings in wood. The throne and Cannopy here was Scarlet
velvet with Rich Gold orrice and window Curtains. Thence into the
dineing roome where hangs in y^e middle a Chrystall Branch for Candles.
Its hung with tapistry, I think its here the Queen of Bohemias Picture
is over the Chimney piece—Sophia’s mother. The window Curtaines flower’d
Crimson Damaske w^{th} gold ffringe; thence the drawing roome w^{ch} has
a Silver branch in the middle, and sconces and Queen Marys Picture—here
is Crimson velvet. Out of this is the presence Chamber w^{th} a Low
screen across the roome to keep company off the bed w^{ch} is scarlet
velvet w^{th} gold orrice and hung w^{th} fine tapistry. Out of y^e
bedchamber goes the dressing roome hung w^{th} yellow damaske and
Chaires the same. Here was the queen mother Dutchess of Yorks Picture
over the Chimney, here is a doore into the private Lodgings where there
is 2 bed Chambers, one Jndian Embroydery the other a mixt damaske; and
Closets and antyroomes to the galleryes and backstaires.
Out of the dressing roome is the Queens Closet, the hangings, Chaires,
Stooles and Screen the same, all of satten stitch done in worsteads,
beasts, birds, jmages and ffruites all wrought very ffinely by Queen
Mary and her maids of honour.
From thence into a Large Long gallery Wanscoated, and pictures of all
the Roman warrs on one side, the other side was Large Lofty windows, two
marble tables in two peers w^{th} two great open jarrs on Each side,
Each table two such; at the End the same for to put potts of orange and
mirtle trees in. The window Curtaines and couches or fformes all green
and white rich damaske.
Out of this into a Long gallery, plain wanscoate without any adornment,
which is for people to waite in, Either of the servants of the houshold
or who waites in buissness of the ordinary sort, and here are doores
that Lead to the back staires and to private Lodgings. This Leads at the
End into the part was design’d for the Kings side, into a noble Gallery
w^{th} Curious Pictures of y^e scriptures painted by the Carthusion.
The King of Ffrance offer’d 3000 pound apiece for them, or indeed any
money. Here are green and white Damaske window Curtaines and Couches as
the other was. This Leads to roomes not ffinished in the same number as
on the queen’s side—one is begun to be painted on the top. The sides of
the walls are painted just Like pieces of tapestry here is Prince
Georges picture at Length, w^{th} his Dukall Corronet, and an Anchor as
High Admirall, and thus to the other roomes, to y^e guardroome and Royal
Staircase as on the Queens side, but none here ffinish’d. The Leads
gives a vast sight all about of the parke and gardens, the ffront of the
house to the garden has four Large stone ffigures Hercules, jupiter,
Mars, Neptune.
There is a long Cannall runs from the ffront a great way, and a Large
ffounttaine next the house in the first garden, w^{th} a broad Gravell
and a Cross. till I came almost to Windsor—I drove by some of the
fforest and the parke and came in another way into town by y^e Castle
across K: Charles’s Walk. jn the Castle yard is a Little box the queen
has bought of Lord Godolphin. The garden joyns to the Duke of S^t Albans
for a little retreate out of y^e Palace. You Enter a Brick Court, on the
Left is a Little Guard roome, on y^e Right a Row of roomes w^{th}
Chambers over them for the Kitchen and Pastry and Butteryes, and a
Little garden pailed in. Then you go on, and on the Left hand Enter the
house into an Entry: on the Left is a little parlour for y^e Ladies of
honour to dine in, beyond that Back Staires Pantry and a Cistern or
Place to Wash things in; by that is the guard roome, under it the
Cellars.
On the Right hand is a Large Antyroome for persons to wait, where are
Marble tables in y^e Peeres between the windows; white damaske window
curtaines and cane chaires. Next it is the Dineing roome some stepps
down, where was red silk Curtaines Chaires and stooles, and Benches
round the roome all red silk, w^{th} same coull^d orrice Lace; here was
a white marble table behind the doore as a sideboard, and a Clap table
under y^e Large Looking Glass between the windows. Next this was a
drawing roome; both these roomes were hung w^{th} small Jmage tapistry
very Lively and ffresh, here was Crimson Damaske window Curtaines,
Chaires and stooles. The next was what was Prince George’s dressing
roome, hung, and window Curtaines Chaires and stooles, all w^{th} yellow
damaske, w^{th} marble Chimney pieces as all y^e Roomes have of
Differing Coull^{rs} black white, grey, rance &c &c. Large
Looking-glasses; all the roomes in all y^e house is plaine unvarnished
oake Wanscoate which Lookes very neate. W^{th}in the dressing roome is a
Closet on one hand, the other side is a Closet y^t Leads to a little
place w^{th} a seate of Easement of Marble w^{th} sluces of water to
wash all down. There is a back doore in y^e dressing roome, to a little
anty roome with presses, a little Wanscoate table for tea, cards or
writeing, so to a back staires;—the Queen’s appartment is over it. From
y^e Greate Staire at the Entrance of the house Lands you in a passage
that Enters—the anty roome is Crimson damaske curtains. Great chaire and
Stooles and Benches; the same next it. The presence roome here is
ffigured Crimson Velvet window Curtaines, Chaires and stooles; here is
the Q. A Wife to K. James the First at Length in her Rideing habit, by
her horse and three or four Couple of hounds—these were hung w^{th}
ffine tapistry as the two below.
Next this was the Queen’s bedChamber, hung, the bed, window-curtaines
the same, all Rich Crimson Damaske. Here was the screen round the bed as
the manner is to all the Souveraignes beds. Over the Chimney was Prince
George’s Picture and by the side of the bed was the Duke of Glocester’s
in an oval. Thence into a Dressing-roome hung with Divers Coull^d
flowered sattin, chaires and stooles the same, ffine fflower’d muslin
window curtaines, A fine Little high screen burnt jappan of 4 Leaves,
another Chimney screen w^{th} 4 Leaves of the stone work in
ffigures—jndian. Out of this was y^e Queens Closet just over Prince
Georges but y^t was Locked. The other side was a little waiting roome to
Just such marble seates of Easem^t w^{th} the sluces of water as that
below was in the Queens bedChamber. Overright y^e Entrance of the
dressing-roome was another Little Closet with the tea Equipage, and
under that was such a Little tea roome within y^e drawingroome. Here in
the dressing roome was a backway to a little waiting passage, with
presses and such little wanscoate tables; this Leads to the back staires
where there is one bedchamber. The Queen’s appartment ffronts the
garden; out of the drawing roome you come on a terrass of Gravell, then
descend stepps down a green banck to a large green space that has 4
bench seates painted white; behind them is a Green bank, and a Large
space of green on Either end fill’d with trees, Lawrell ffrilleroy,
Cyprus, yews, heads a Pirramids, and Mirtles. This is ffenced with jron
palasadoes painted, to another garden cut in squares and figures, with
all sorts of fflowers and greens, which has at y^e End a Cut hedge and
Leads on to a sort of orchard with dwarfe trees. These gardens and
orchards is in Gravel Walks and Long green walks, in variety as such a
thing in miniature can admitt.
I drove through another part of Windsor to see a Race run by two
ffootemen—an English and Scotch—the fformer a taller Bigger man than the
other. The ground Measur’d and Cut even in a round ring, was almost four
mile; they were to run it round so often as to make up 22 mile, which
was the distance between Chareing Cross and Windsor Cross—that was five
times quite round and so farre as made up the odd miles and Measure.
They ran a round in 25 minutes. I saw them run the first three rounds
and halfe another, in an hour and seventeen minutes, and they ffinished
it in two hours and a halfe. The English gain’d the second round the
start, and kept it at the same distance y^e five rounds, and then the
Scotchman came up to him and got before him to the post. The Englishman
fell down within a few yards of the post. Many hundred pounds were won
and lost about it, they ran both very neately, but my judgment Gave it
y^e Scotchman because he seem’d to save himself to y^e Last Push.
I drove home by a fine house of Lord Rawnelaughs, 14 windows in the
ffront, a square building—much gardening and Curious they say, but that
Ladyes Pride is, none must see them, and soe Drove a fine Gravell road
cut with rows of trees. In a mile you come to a broad open way to
Windsor on the Left hand, on the Right to a little house of y^e Duchess
of Marlboroughs, which is very exact gardens and ffountaines, Cut hedges
and Groves, pail’d in; ffrom this house is the ffine Gravell walke
continued very broad between high rows of trees—on one hand a ffine
Grove of straite trees.
This is three mile to Windsor all a Clear visto to the Castle, to that
which is K. Charle’s Walke for Shooting, which you Enter by a Broad
Pallasadoe-ffences the whole breadth of the road. So at y^e other End
which is a mile and goes out into the road w^{ch} comes ffrom Hampton
Court which you Cross into the yards and Courts that lead up into the
Castle.
“FINIS.”
------------------------------------------------------------------------
SOME PLACES MENTIONED.
--------------
Newtontony. Wiltshire. Nath^l Fiennes.
Sarum.
Ffisherton.
Malbrough.
Devizes.
Warminster.
Wilton house. Earle of Pembroke’s house.
Blandford. Dorsetshire.
Merly.
Wimborn.
Sir William Constantine’s house.
Poole.
Brownsea jsland.
Isle of Purbeck.
Corffe Castle.
Quare. M^r Collier’s house.
Sonidge.
Sea Cuine.
Kingston. Sir William Muex’ house.
Income. M^r Coliffords house.
Doonshay. M^r Dolling’s house.
Finnum. Lady Larences house.
Brindon.
Piddle. M^r Oxenbridg’ house.
Dorchester.
Burport.
Woolfe. M^r Newbery’s house.
Colway. M^r Hendley’s house.
Lime. Somersetshire.
Lizard Point.
Blandford Woodbery hill.
Cherbery.
M^r Earle’s house.
Shaftesbury.
Andover.
Winchester.
Amesbury.
Stoneage.
Salsebury plaine.
Evell.
Meer and Castle.
Wincauton.
Castle Cary.
Alford.
Queen Camell.
Bruton.
Willdeng.
Breackly.
Philip Morton.
Bath.
Hungerford.
Lamborn.
Ffarington.
Kadcote.
Coalsell. Sir George Pratt’s house.
Vale of Whitehorse.
Norton. L^d Say and Seale’s house.
Broughton. L^d Say and Seale’s house.
Banbery.
Shettford.
Edgehill.
S^r Robert Dashwood’s house.
Adderbery.
S^r Thomas Cobb and Ly Rochester’s house.
Roxton. the Lord Guilfford’s house.
Banbury.
London.
Alesbury.
Durly.
Nurstead. M^r Holt’s house.
Petersffield.
Maple Duram.
Guilford.
Kingston on Thames.
Colebrooke.
Maidenhead.
Winsor Castle.
Eaton Colledge.
Cliffton house. Duke of Buckinghams.
Redding.
Veale.
Newbery.
Wayhill.
Sutton.
Baseing Stoke.
Basen. Duke of bolton’s house.
Sir Robert Hendly’s house.
Hartfford bridge.
Bagshott.
Eggum.
Staines.
Houndslow.
Brandford.
Turnumgreen.
Hammersmith.
Kensington.
Great Horrwood.
Hillsdon. M^r Denton’s house.
Thorndon. S^r Thomas Tyrrell’s house.
Stow. S^r Rich^d Temple’s house.
S^r Ralph verney’s house.
Buckingham.
Morton Hindmost.
Hayles. Lord Tracy’s house.
Rowlestone.
Astrop.
Sutton.
Oxfford.
Abington.
Elsly.
Newbury.
Chichister.
Petersffield.
Nurstead. M^r Holt’s house.
Lord Tankervaile’s Park.
Billinghurst.
Arundell. Duke of Norfolke’s house.
Dorken.
Leatherhead.
Moles.
Kingston.
Richmond parke.
Hampton Court.
Wanstead.
Clapham.
Lambeth.
Chealsey Colledge.
Westminster.
Southwarke.
Uxbridge.
Islip.
Woodstock.
Morton Hindmost.
Broadway hill.
Parshur.
Upton.
Mauborn.
Worcester.
Newhouse.
Lady Hopton’s house.
Cannon ffroome.
Bishop’s ffroome Castle.
Herriford.
Stoake. M^r Paul folie’s seate.
Eghum.
Vale of Red horse.
Weston.
Parsonage of Pharamus Fiennes.
Parsonage of M^r Browne.
Camden Town.
Brailes.
Alsbury.
Newfforest. Hampshire.
Ffarnum.
Aberston. Duke of Bolton’s house.
Ffarnum Castle. Bis^p of Winchester.
Alton.
Alsford.
Winchester.
Woolsey.
Maudline Hill.
Redbridge.
Buckland. Sir Robert Smith’s house.
Limington.
Lindhurst.
Newparke.
Isle of Wight.
Yarmouth.
Hurst Castle.
Sandumffort.
Newport.
Casbrooke Castle.
Cowes.
Knighton. S^r R. Dilington’s house.
Nunwell. Sir J. Oglanders house.
Sir Robert Worstly’s house.
Sir Robert Holme’s house.
Mottstone.
Spitthead.
S^t Hellens point.
Portsmouth.
Ride.
Redbridge.
Southsea Castle.
Porchester down.
Southwicke. Col Nortons house.
South hampton.
Cashot Castle.
Bewly.
Rumsey.
Sir John S^t Barbe’s house.
White Parish and Toy Church.
Lord Coalrain’s house.
Y^e Lady Brooks seate.
Ffordingbridge.
Kingwood.
Christchurch.
Rumsy.
Lockerly.
East Titherly. S^r Francis Rowle’s house.
Dean. Sir John Evlings house.
Norman’s Court. M^r Whiteheads house.
West Titherly.
Stockbridge.
Sutton.
Basinstoake.
Hackwood. Duke of Bolton’s house.
Harfordbridge.
Bagshott.
Egum.
Staines.
Hampton Court.
Amwell Berry.
Bishops Startford.
Audly End. Earl of Sussex house.
Little berry.
Cambridge.
Babaran. S^r R^d Bennet’s house.
Bornbridge.
Hodmogoge.
Peterborough.
Ffenistanton.
Godmanchester.
Huntington.
Lord Sandwich’s house.
Shilton.
Whillsome Mer.
Wrangfford.
Stamford.
M^r Neals house.
Burly house. L^d Exeter’s house.
Streton. M^r Horsman.
Colson.
Lincoln.
Grantum.
Sir John Brownlow’s house.
Newark.
the Lord Lexington’s house.
Nottingham.
Note rale. Mr Heckams.
Lord Kingston’s house.
Home Peirpoynt.
Duke of Newcastle’s houses.
Earle of Kingstone’s house.
S^r Thomas Willoughby’s house.
Beavior Castle. Earle of Rutland’s house.
Mansfield.
Forest of Sherwood.
Wursup.
Welbeake. Duke of Newcastle’s house.
Worsup Mannour.
Ardeck.
Chattsworth.
Blith.
M^r Mellish’s house.
Doncaster.
Rosdin.
Wentbridge.
Fferrybridge.
Tod Caster.
Yorke.
Marsborough spaw.
Haragate.
Knarsborough.
Cockgrave. S^t Munger’s well.
Burrough Bridge.
Rippon
S^r Edward Blackets house.
Bornbridge.
Whitten.
Burlington. L^d Clifford’s house.
Beverly.
Hull.
Agnes Burton. S^r Griffith Boynton’s house.
Barmstone.
Scarborough.
Boynton.
Maulton.
M^r Paume’s house.
Tad Caster.
Aberfford.
M^{rs} Hickeringall’s house.
Castleton bridge.
Pomffret.
D^r Burgess’ house.
Lady Grace Perpoynt’s house.
Hemsworth.
Rotheram.
M^r fferrers house.
Ackington.
Shellton.
Chesterffield.
Stonidge Hall.
Bankwell.
Haddon Hall. Earle of Rutlands.
Buxton.
Poole’s hole.
Maintour.
Castleton.
Ashburn.
Uxeter.
M^r Cotten’s house.
Woolsley. Sir Charles Woolsleys house.
Litchfield.
Colehill.
Coventry.
Sir Andrew Hackets house.
Warwick.
Sir Thos. Norton’s house.
Lord Leigh’s house.
Killingworth Castle.
Warwick Castle. the Lord Brookes Stone in y^e old.
Daventry.
Nether sugar.
Shuggbery Hall. S^r Chas. Shuggbery’s house.
Northampton.
Stony Stratford.
Great Horwood.
Salden.
M^{rs} Bennet’s house.
Dunstable.
Hochley in y^e Hole.
S^t Albans.
Earle of Maulberoughs house.
Mr Jennings’ house.
Barnet.
Highgate.
Amwell.
Royston.
Epin.
Rumford.
Abnife.
Tilbery.
Gravesend.
Rochester.
Chatham.
Sittingburn.
Canterbery.
Ffeversham.
Dover.
Callice (in ffrance).
Deale.
Warworth.
Sandwitch.
Isle of thanet.
Lord Winchelsea’s house.
Maidstone.
Boxlye hill.
Northfleete.
Dartford.
Shuter’s hill.
Eriff.
Leigh.
Woolwich.
Deadford.
Blackwall.
Popley and Stepney.
Hackney.
Tatnum.
Endfield.
Tunbridg Wells.
Spenshurst. Lord Lester’s seat.
Lord Abergavneys seate.
Ffaint.
Groombridge.
Ashurst.
Branklye.
Goodhurst.
Sumerhill. Visc^t Parbecks.
Rye.
Ambursly.
Beggar’s Hill.
Winchealsea Castle.
fair lane.
S^r Harry Vaine’s house.
Sevenoake.
Summerly the Lord Purbecks.
Nonsuch.
Ffarnburrough.
Brumley.
Albins—S^r Robert Abdy’s house.
Bednal green.
Highgate. M^r Thomas’ house.
Lampstead.
Kensington.
Bishopstofford.
Dunmow.
Colchester.
Lord Luca’s house.
Ipswitch.
Dedom.
Y^e Earle Herrifords house.
Woodbridge.
Wickham.
Saxmunday.
M^r Dormer’s seate.
Bathfort.
Stowle or nole.
Norwich.
Beckle.
Sir Robert Rich’s house.
Yarmouth.
Harwitch.
Duke of Norfolk’s house.
Windham.
Attlborough.
Thetford.
Euston hall. L^d Arlington’s house.
S^t Edmund’s bury.
Admiral Russell’s house—now Lord Orffords.
Newmarket.
Ely.
Sutton.
The armitage.
S^t Ives.
Huntington.
Stillton.
Peterborough.
Wanfford.
M^{rs} S^t John’s house.
Durant.
Coppingham.
Leister.
Busworth.
Narsby.
fallmouth.
Tamworth.
Stafford.
Heywood Park. M^r Wedgewood’s house.
Kankwood. L^d Pagets.
Ridgly.
Bondezworth. L^d Pagets.
Pauckeridge.
Colton.
blithbery.
Yoxwell.
Needwood fforest.
Tetbury Castle.
Derby.
Chartly. L^d fferrers house.
Bradby. L^d Chesterffield’s house.
Burton on y^e Trent.
Instree. M^r Thetwin’s house.
S^t Thomas’s Abbey.
Lord Aston’s house.
Tixall.
M^r Thetwin’s Parke.
NewCastle under Lyne.
Stone.
trentum. M^r Leveson Gore’s
house.
Beteby.
Heally Castle.
Nantwitch.
Chester.
West Chester.
Harding.
Hollywell.
Fflint
High lake.
Burton.
Leverpoole.
prescote.
Nosel. Earl of Darby’s house.
Wigan.
Warrington.
Preston and S^r J. Bradshaw’s house.
Gascoigne.
Lancaster.
Kendall.
L^y Middleton’s house.
Bondor.
Wiandermer.
S^r Christopher Phillip’s house.
Ambleside.
Ullswater.
Peroth.
Londer hall.
Carlisle.
Adison bank. Scotland.
Longtown.
Brampton.
Muckshall.
My Lord Carleton’s house.
Hart whistle.
New Castle.
Hexholme.
L^d Derwentwater’s house.
Tinmouth.
Durham.
Chester Street.
Lumly Castle. The L^d Lumly.
Lord Crew’s house.
S^r Charles Musgrove’s house.
Darlington.
Richmond.
Sir Mark Melborn’s house.
M^r Darey’s house.
M^r Yorke’s house.
Hornby Castle—Earle of Holdeness.
Knaresborough.
Harragate.
Leeds.
Harwood Castle.
Eland.
Hallifax.
Blackstone Edge.
Rochdale.
Manchester.
Salfor.
Dunum. Earle of Warrington’s house.
M^r Cholmonly’s seate.
M^r Listers seate.
Norwitch.
Sandyhead.
Whitchurch.
Beston wood.
Beston Castle.
Shrewsbury.
S^r Thomas Patsell’s house.
Aubery.
Panckeridge.
M^r Peirpoynt’s house.
S^r Walter Rockly’s house.
Wolverhampton.
Prestwitch. M^r Philip ffolies house.
Seven starres.
Broadwater.
Ambusly.
Kederminster.
Sir John Packington’s house.
Droitwitch.
Worcester.
Whitborne.
Stretton Grandison.
Stoake.
Albery and Marlow.
Gloucester.
Nympsffield.
Cold harbour.
Landsdon.
Babington. Duke of Beauforts house.
Bristol.
Landsdown.
Kingswood.
Wells.
Glasenbury.
tannton.
Wellington.
Culimton.
Exetter.
Chedly.
Ashburton.
Plymouth.
Dean Clapper hill.
Mount Edgcombe. S^r R^d Edgecumbes.
Cribly fferry.
Loun.
Hoile.
Parr.
S^t Austins.
Trygothy. M^r Boscawen’s house.
truro.
S^t Columbe.
Redruth.
S^t Ives.
Pensands.
Hailes.
S^t Michael’s Mount.
Island of sily.
Churchtown.
Hailing.
Way bridge.
Combleford.
bastable.
Stow. Earle of Baths.
Lundy island.
Lauston.
Oakingham.
Cochenwell.
Topshum.
Honiton.
Axminster.
Chard.
Liegh. M^r Hendly’s house.
M^r Predneux’s house.
Maiden newton.
Milborn.
Whitchurch. M^r Colier’s house.
Wallop.
Grattly.
Cholderton.
Allington.
London.
Mallbery.
Y^e Duke of Summerset’s house.
Hungerford.
Rusbery.
Uxbridge.
Amersham.
Barkeningstead.
Hanlow.
Clifton and Checkston.
Turvoy.
Earle of Peterborough’s house.
Northampton.
Creek.
Hornby. Earle of ffeversham’s house.
Altsop. Lord Sunderlands.
High Crosse.
Smockington and Anderton.
Wolverhampton.
Sturbridge.
Churchill.
Epsom. the Lord Bartlets house.
Banstead downs and boxhill.
Sir Robert Howard’s house.
Ware.
hitching.
Bedford.
Leighton Buzard.
Whinslow.
M^r Ruth’s and L^y Dennegall’s house.
Sir Thos. Cooke’s house.
M^{rs} Steven’s house.
Parson of Banstead’s garden.
M^r Moore’s fine house.
L^d Raunelaugh’s house.
House of Duchess of Maulborough.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
INDEX.
PAGE
Abbey, Glasenbury, 204
Abbey, Westminster, 249
Abbington, 288
Abby, Ely, 130
Abdy, Sir Robert, his house Albins, 114
Aberfford, 74
Abergauney, Lord, his seate, 111
Abingdon, 29
Abnise, 99
Acadia, Sir Philip Sidney’s, 4
Accident at Aleford, 233
Ackington, 76
Adderbery, 19
Adison Bank, 171
Agnes-Burton, 71
Aire, River, 58
Albans, St, 98
Albins, 114
Aldbery, 197
Ale at Chesterffield, 77
Ale, in Cornwall, 224
Ale, price of, in Yorkshire, 185
Alesbury, 20
Alesbury, London to, 21
Alford, mineral water at, 11
Allen, Mr Wm., Major of Chester, 148
Alms houses, Mr Coleson’s, 200
Alsford, accident at, 233
Ambursly, 112
Ambusly, 194
Ambrosius, 10
Amesbury, 10
Amwell Berry, 48
Amwell bery, 115
Amwell, from, to Dover, 99
Andover, 9
Andrew’s Well, St., 204
Ann, Queen, Coronation of, 251, 252, 253, 254, 255, 256, 257, 258
Ann, Queen, Coronation of, at Bath, 15
Appleby, 160
Ardeck, 57
Arlington, Lord, his house Euston Hall, 123
Armstrong, Mr, 119
Arundell parke, 32
Ash, fern, for washing, 136
Ashburn, 88
Ashburton, 212
Ashburton, Dissenters at, 212
Ashurst, 111
Asply, petrifying earth at, 292
Aston, 202
Aston, Lord, his house Tixall Hall, 144
Astrop, mineral water at, 23
Attlborough, 122
Aubery, 194
Audlyend, 48
Audlyend to Cambridge, 48
Austin’s, St., 217
Aven, River, 93
Aven, River, 97
Axminster, 231
Babaram, 48
Babington, 199
Bad accommodation at Carlisle, 170
Bad entertainment at Hartwhistle, 174
Bagshott, 21
Baltimore, Lord, his house, 292
Banbery, 19
Banbury, 20
Banbury, 22
Bankwell, 81
Banstead Downs, 289
Banstead, the parson of, 301
Barber Surgeons Hall, Newastle, 177
Barkminstead, 284
Barkshire, roads in, 21
Barmstone, 71
Barnet, 98
Barnet, waters at, 98
Barristers-at-Law, 261
Baseing stoke, 21
Basen, 21
Basin, 46
Basin-stoke, 46
Basin-stoke to London, 47
Bastable, 228
Bath, 199
Bath, bathing at, 12
Bath, cake houses at, 17
Bath Cathedral, 17
Bath, Earle of, his house Stow, 229
Bath, expenses at, 17
Bath, knights of the, 259
Bath, markets at, 17
Bath, pageant of coronation at, 15
Bath, to, from Newtontony, 11
Bath, walks in, 17
Bathfort, 118
Bathing at Bath, 12-14
Bathing at St Winfred’s Well, 150
Baths at Buxton, 83
Battle of Edgehill, 19
Bayes, manufacture of, 115
Beauffort, Duke of, his house Babington, 99
Beavior Castle, 56
Beckle, 18
Bedford, 291
Bedford, Duke of, his house at Ouborn, 292
Bedford, Duke of, his house in Bedfordshire, 97
Bedford, fish at, 291
Bedford, woollen worke at, 291
Bednal Green, 114
Bednallgreen, 241
Beggars Hill fair, 113
Bennet, Mrs, 97
Bennet, Mrs, her daughters, 97
Bennet, Mrs, murder of 97
Bennet, Sir Richard, his house at Barbaram, 48
Beston Castle, 189
Bestonwood, 189
Beteby, 147
Beverly, 68
Beverly Minster, 68
Bewly, 43
Billberryes at Woolsley, 136
Billinghurst,32
Bird, curious, on Lundy Island, 229
Bishopric of Durham, 180
Bishops and Gentry, 281, 282
Bishops Palace, Sarum, 2
Bishop’s Startford, 48
Bishopstafford, 115
Black Comb Hill, 157
Black Lead, 157
Blacket, Sir Edw^d, his seat, 66, 67
Blackheath, 108
Blackstone Edge, 186
Blackwall, 241
Blandford, 9
Blandford, 233
Blandford, Dorsetshire, 5
Blew garter, Order of, 234
Blith, 57
Blith to Doncaster, 58
Blithbery, 139
Bole, 228
Bolton, Duke of, house of, 21
Bolton, Duke of, his house Aberstone, 35
Bolton, Duke of, house at Basin, 46
Bolton, Duke of, house at Hackwood, 46
Bondor, 160
Bone well, the, 288
Bonelace making, 284
Borderers, Scotch, 170
Borderers, Scottish, 171, 172
Born Bridge, 67
Bornbridge, 48
Boscawen, Mr, his house Trygothy, 220, 221
Bosworth, Field of, 135
Boudezworth, 138
Boudezworth, Coale pitts at, 138
Bourns, on Salsebury Plain, 10
Bowling greens at Tunbridge, 110
Box Hill, 32
Box Hill, 289
Boxlye Hills, 106
Boynton, Sir Griffith, his seate Agnes-Burton, 71
Bradby, 140
Bradshaw, Sir John, his house, 154
Brampton, 173
Brance Burton, 71
Brandford, 21
Branklye, 112
Breackly, 11
Bread at Oxford, 26
Bridge, London, 247
Brindon, 7
Brinsy Coppice, 139
Bristol, 199, 200, 201
Bristol Diamonds, 201
Broad Water, 194
Broadway Hill, 33
Brooke, Lord, his house, 94
Brookes between Preston and Wiggon, 155
Brooks, Lady, her seat, 45
Broughton, 19
Broughton, 23
Broughton, 35
Broughton, from London to, 290 291, 292
Browne, Mr, his parsonage, 35
Brownsea, 5
Brownsea lobsters, &c., 6
Brumley, 114
Bruton, 11
Buckingham, Duke of, house of, 21
Buckingham, 22
Buckinghamshire, 97
Buckland, 38
Budsworth, 285
Burgess, Dr, house at Pomffret, 75
Burlington, 68
Burly house, Lord Exeter’s seat, 52
Burning of Salsebury, 1
Burning Well, The, 154
Burport, 7
Burrough Bridge, 65
Burrowbridge, 84
Burton, 152
Burton on Trent, 143
Burying place of Judge Poppum, 3
Butter at Ipswitch, 116
Buxton, 83
Buxton, entertainment at, 83
Buxton Hall, 83
Cabinet Ministers, 280
Calvery Plain, 112
Calveshead feast, 242
Cam, River, 49
Cambridge, 49
Cambridge University, 49
Cambridge University Library, 49
Camden Town, 35
Camden, Viscountess, effigie of, 35
Can, River, 159
Canaan Froom, 197
Canelys Cornish, 222
Canterbery, 100, 101, 102, 103
Canterbery Cathedral, 102, 103
Carleton, Lord, his house, 73
Carlisle, 169, 170
Carts in Westmoreland, 162
Casbrooke Castle, 41
Cashot Castle, 43
Castle Cary, 11
Castle, Dover, 104
Castle, Lanston, 229
Castle Winsor, 234
Castleton, 86, 87
Castleton Bridge, 75
Cathedral, Canterbery, 102, 103
Cathedral, Chichester, 31
Cathedral, Exeter, 210
Cathedral, Herriford, 34
Cathedral, Peterborough, 132
Cathedral, St Albans, 98
Cathedral, Winchester, 36
Cathedral, Sarum, 2
Cathedral, Wells, 203
Cathedrall, Glocester, 197
Cathedrall, Worcester, 195
Cavern, Peak, 87
Cern, River, 191
Channell Coale, 137
Channell Coale, and Sea Coale, 146
Channell Coale at Newcastle under Line, 146
Channell Coale at Wiggon, 153
Charles the ffirst’s picture at St John’s, 27
Charles the Second, King, his house Nonsuch, 114
Charles the Second, Palace at Winchester, 36
Charr, potted, 159, 160
Chartly, 140
Chartry 143
Chattsworth, 57
Chattsworth, 78, 79, 80, 81
Chedley, 211
Cheese at Newcastle, 177
Cheese Making in Cheshire, 147
Cherbery, 9
Cherry grounds at Gravesend, 107
Cheshire Cheese Making, 147
Chester Cathedral, 147
Chester, Penthouses in, 148
Chester Street, 178
Chester, West, 147
Chesterffield, 77
Chesterfield, Lord, his house Bradby, 140, 141, 142, 143
Chichester Cathedral, 31
Chichester, 30
Chichester, Crabs and Lobsters at, 31
Chichester, Lord Tankervaile’s house at, 30
Chimneys on the Border, 174
Cholmonly, Mr, his house, 188
Choosing Parliament men at Durham, 180
Christ Church, 3
Christ Church Colledge, 25
Church, almost sunk in the Sands, 222
Church at Hull, 70
Church Convocation, 276
Church of England, Corruption of, 267
Churches at Coventry, 91
Church-hill, farmhouse at, 286
Cider in Somersetshire, 8
Circuits, Judges’, 263
City Companyes, 245
Civil law, 267
Claire Hall, Cambridge, 50
Clap bread, 156
Clap bread making, 161
Claret over the Border, 171
Clifford, Lord, his house Burlington, 68
Clifton House, 21
Clouted Cream, 218
Coaches and Six at Epsom, 301
Coaches between London and Tunbridge, 110
Coal, hard like marble, 90
Coal, Mindiffe, 4
Coale at Taunton, 205
Coale, Channell, 137
Coale Mines at Budsworth, 285
Coal Mines in Derbyshire, 77
Coal pits in Yorkshire, 75
Coale pitts at Boudezworth, 138
Coale pitts in Flintshire, 151
Coale pitts in Shropshire, 192
Coale, price in London, 137
Coale, price of at Woolsley, 137
Coales at Bristol, 199
Coales at Newcastle upon Tyne, 175
Coal-rain, Lord, his house, 45
Coalsell, Sir Geo. Pratt’s house at, 17
Cobb, Sir Thomas, house of at Adderbery, 19
Cobb, the, at Lime, 8
Cochen Well, 230
Cockgrave, 63
Colchester, 115, 116
Cold harbour, 199
Colebrooke, 20
Colebrooke, 241
Colehill, 90
Coleson, Mr, his almshouses, 200
Colifford, Mr, house at Income, 7
Colledge, Eaton, 240
Colledge, Winchester, 37
Colledges at Oxford, enumeration of, 28
Collier, Cos’n, 233
Colson, 54
Colton, 139
Colway, 8
Combiefford, 228
Common law, 267
Companyes, City, 245
Constantine, Sir William, house of, 5
Convocation, Church, 276
Cooke, Mr, 141
Cooke, Sir Thomas, his house at Epsom, 297, 298, 299
Copper Mines at Ashburn, 88
Copper Mines in Cornwall, 221
Copperas, 5
Copperas works, 6
Coppingham, 133
Coppingham to Leicester, 133
Corfe Castle, 6
Cornish Canelys, 222
Cornish Diamonds, 219
Cornish horse fodder, 227
Cornish inquisitiveness, 222
Cornish Nightingales, 227
Cornish paving stones, 228
Cornish Water wheels, 227
Cornwall, Ill guides in, 222
Cornwall roads, 216
Cornwall, smoaking universal in, 218
Coronation of Queen Ann, 251, 252, 253, 254, 255, 256, 257, 258
Coronation of William and Mary, 255
Corporation of London, 241, 242, 246, 247
Corpus Christus Colledge, 25
Corruption of Church of England, 267
Corruption of Court of Chancery, 262
Cost of dinner at Darby, 140
Cottages in Cornwall and Scotland, 224
Cotten, Mr, his house near Uxeter, 89
Cotten manufacture at Glocester, 197
Cottentickings at Manchester, 188
Cotton blanckets, 159
Coursing at Ullswater, 165
Courts Banns, 266
Court, Hampton, 47
Court, Inns of, 261
Court of Chancery, corruption of, 262
Courts of Justice, 260, 261, 262
Coventry, 91 92
Cowes, 41
Cows in St James’s Park, 248
Crafton Bridge, 183
Crawfish at Hungerford, 17
Cream, Clouted, 218
Crew, Lord, Bishop of Durham, 180
Cribly Ferry, 216
Criminalls’ punishments, 264, 265
Cross at Coventry, 91
Cross, Mr, Lord Say and Seale’s tutor, 28
Crowning Kings and Queens of England, 251
Culimton 206
Cultivation in Westmoreland, 158, 166
Culumb, St, 221
Cumberland, 165, 166
Curious bird on Lundy Island, 229
Custom, Whitsuntide at Litchfield, 135
Darby, 139, 140
Darby, Earle of, his house Nosel, 153
Darcy, Mr, his house Suddber Hall, 184
Darenwater, Lord, his house, 174
Darey, Mr, his house, 184
Darken, troutts and fish at, 289
Darlington, 182
Dartfford, 108
Dashwood, Sir Robert, house of, 19
Daventry, 96
Deale, 105
Dean, 212
Dean Clapperhill, 212
Dean, Lord Kingston’s house, 46
Dean’s House, Sarum, 2
Dedom, 116
Dee, River, 148
Dee, Sands of, 149, 151
Deer in Hyde Parke, 249
Denton, Mr, house of, 21
Derbyshire Coal Mines, 77
Derbyshire, nature of soil in, 77
Derwent, 67
Derwent, River, 140
Devisses, 4
Devonshire, description of, 9
Devonshire lanes, 9
Devonshire lanes, 211, 212
Diamonds, Bristol, 201
Dillington, Sir R., his house at Knighton, 41
Dimmock, Sir John, 259
Direction posts in Lancashire, 157
Directions, bad in Suffolk, 118
Dirty Condition of Ely, 128
Dissenters at Ashburton, 212
Dissection at Barber Surgeons Hall, Newcastle, 177, 178
Dissenters at Beckle, 118
Dissenters at Colchester, 116
Dissenters at Coventry, 92
Dissenters at Honiton, 231
Dissenters at Leeds, 185
Dissenters at Leicester, 135
Dissenters at Newcastle, 181
Dissenters at Plymouth, 214
Dissenters at St. Edmundsbery, 124
Dissenters in Leverpoole, 152
Doctor who fasted to death, effigy of, 3
Doctors’ Commons, 267
Dolling, Mr, house at Doonshay, 7
Don, River, 58
Doncaster, 58
Donum ffells, 161
Doonshay, Mr Bolling’s house at, 7
Dorchester, 7
Dorchester, 233
Dorington, Sir William, 45
Dorken, trout at, 32
Dormer, Mr, his seate near Saxmunday, 117
Dosenmere Poole, 228
Dove, River, 139
Dover, 103
Dover Castle, 104
Downs, The, 105
Downs, Wiltshire, 1
Drake, Sir Francis, 214
Droctwitch, 189
Durant, 133
Duke and Duchess of Somerset, Monument to, 3
Duke of Bolton’s house, 21
Duke of Buckingham, house of, 21
Dunum, 188
Dunmew, 115
Dunstable, 98
Durham Castle, 180
Durham Cathedrall, 179
Durham Citty, 179, 180, 181
Dwellings, dirty on the border, 171, 172
Dying ffatts, 208
Earl of Pembrooke’s house at Wilton, 4
Earles, Mr, seate of at Woodbery Hill, 9
East Titherly, 46
Eaton Colledge, 21
Eaton Colledge, 240
Edds, Mr, 31
Edge Comb, Mount, 215
Edge Comb, Sir Richd., his seat, 215
Edgehill, battle of, 19
Edmundsbery, St, 124
Edward the Confessour, his foundations at Winsor, 240
Effigy of a doctor who fasted to death, 3
Egerton, Mr, 147
Eggum, 21
Eland, 185
Elden Hole, 85
Electers of Parliament men, 195
Election at Worcester, 195
Elsly, 30
Elizabeth, Queen, her picture, 19
Ely, 127
Ely Abby, 130
Ely, Bishop of, 128
Ely Minster, 128
Emount River, 166
Emount, River, 170
Endfield, 108
English and Scotch footmen, race between, 308
Entertainment at Buxton, 83
Entertainment, bad at Hartwhistle, 174
Epin, 99
Epsom, 289
Epsom, 292, 300, 301
Epsom, Mineral waters at, 289
Eshum, 35
Essex, River, 170
Euston Hall, 123
Evell, 10
Every, Mr, at Newbury, 30
Evling, Sir John, 46
Ewers, Lord, co-heiress of, 74
Ex, River, 207, 209
Exchange, Royal, 247
Exeter, 206, 207, 208, 209, 210
Exeter, 231
Exeter Cathedral, 210
Exeter, Lord, his house at Burly, 52
Fallmouth, 135
Falmouth, 221
Fens around Ely, 127
Fens around Ely, 130
Fern ash for washing, 136
Ferrers, Lord, his house Chartly, 140
Ffairly Castle, 233
ffarington, 17
ffarly Castle, 36
Ffarnburough, 114
Ffarnum, 233
Ffenistanton, 50
Ffenwich, Lady Mary, 67
Fferrer, Mr, entertainment by, 76
Fferrybridge, 58
Ffeversham, 100
Ffeversham, Earle of, his house Homby, 285
ffiennes John, his seat New House, 33
ffiennes, Pheramus, his parsonage, 35
ffiennes, Richard, his widdow, 33
Ffilmer, Cos’n and family, 199
Ffisherton, 3
Ffleetewood, 153
Fflintshire, 148, 150, 151
Ffolie, Mr, his new house at Stoake, 196
Ffolie, Mr Philip, his house Prestwich, 194
Ffolie, Mr Thos., his iron works, 194
ffording bridge, 46
Ffosse, the Muddy, 67
Ffosse Way, 285
Ffulling Mills, 208
Ffurnes Coppice, 138
Ffurness ffells, 157
Ffurness ffells, 161
Ffussell, Mr, at Whit Church, 233
Finnum, Lady Larence’s house at, 7
Finnum, Lobsters and Crabs at, 7
Fish at Bedford, 291
Fish at Beverly, 69
Fish at Borough Bridge, 65
Fish at Pensands, 224
Fish at Rye, 114
Fish at Scarbrough, 74
Fish at Woolsley, 137
Fleete Prison, 266
Flint Town, 149
Floods in Devonshire, 230
Floods in Devonshire, 233
Flowing and ebbing well, 88
Foley, Mr, his house Stoake, 286, 287
Folie, Mr Paul, his seat, 34
Forecasts, weather, by sound of water, 159
Founders of Halls and Colledges in Oxford, 29
Forest, Nedwood, 139
Forest, New, 39
Foundations of Sarum Cathedral, 2
Four Shires Stone, 288
Framy, River, 34
Freestone quarries, 6
French people in Canterbury, 101
French wine at Rye, 114
Fuel used in fen district, 132
Funeral, Queen Mary’s, 250, 251
Furze as fuel, 223
Gainsborough, Earl of, 35
Gardens at Wilton, Earl of Pembrooke’s, 4
Garter, Blew, order of, 234
Gascoyne, 156
Gennings, Mrs, her house at St Albans, 98
Gentry, Bishops and, 281, 282
George of Denmark, Prince, 253
George’s Chappel, St, Monuments in, 235
George’s, St, Church at Winsor, 234, 235
Giant’s table near Peroth, 168
Gifts to the Lord Major, 244
Gilpin, Dr, 181
Glasenbury, 204
Glasenbury Abbey, 204
Glasenbury holly thorn, 204
Glass blowing at Castleton Bridge, 75
Glass blowing at Sturbridge, 286
Glassenbury Tower, 203
Glocester, 197
Glocester Cathedrall, 197
Glocester, Cotton Manufacture at, 197
Gloves, manufacture of, at Darby, 140
Godfrey, Sir Edmund Berry, 249
Godmanchester, 50
Goodhurst, 112
Goswill, Mr, 231
Governours of foreign plantations, 280
Grafton, Duke of, 123
Grantum, 54
Gravesend, 99
Gravesend, 107
Great Heywood, 146
Great Horrwood, 21
Green Bower Feast at Litchfield, 135
Greenwitch, 108
Groombridge, 111
Guides in Derbyshire, 81
Guilford, 20
Guilford, Lord, his house at Epsom, 293, 294
Guilford, Lord, house Roxton, 19
Guillotine at Hallifax, 186
Gun casting in Kent, 111
Gustaus Adolphus, his picture at St John’s, 27
Guy, Earle of Warwick, 95
Habeas Corpus, 266
Hacket, Sir Andrew, his seate, 91
Hackney, 108
Hackwood, 46
Haddon Hall, 82
Hailing, 224
Hales, 22
Hall, Westminster, 260
Hallifax, 186
Halls at Oxford, enumeration of, 28
Hammersmith, 21
Hampton Court, 32
Hampton Court, 47
Hampton Court, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307
Hamstead waters, 99
Haragate, springs at, 62
Haragate, sulpher or stincking spaw at, 62
Harding, 148
Harragate, 184
Harrison, Ffiennes, 115
Harrison, Sir Edmond, 231
Harrison, Sir Edmund, 148
Hartfford bridge, 21
Hartly Poynt, 229
Hartshill, 137
Hartwhistle, 173
Harwich, 119
Harwood Castle, 184
Hawking in Staffordshire, 137
Haywood Parke, 194
Healy Castle, 147
Heckam, Mr, 55
Hedgewood, Mr, his house, 138
Hedgford, 138
Hell Kettles, 182
Hemsworth, 76
Hendly, Mr, house of at Colway, 8
Hendly, Mr, his house at Leigh, 232
Hendly, Sir Robert, house of, 21
Henley, Sir Robert, his seat, 47
Heraulds’ office, 282
Herriford, 34
Herriford Cathedral, 34
Herriford, Earle of, house at Ipswitch, 117
Herrifordshire, fruit trees in, 33
Herrifordshire, journey to, from London, 32
Hewet Bridge, 66
Hexholme, 174
Heywood, Great, 146
Heywood Parke, 138
Heywood Parke, 139
Hickeringall, Mrs, 75
Hide Parke, 249
High Cross, Northampton, 96
High Crosse, 285
Highwaymen, 189
Hillingworth Castle, 93
Hills in Westmoreland, 162, 163
Hillsdon, Mr Denton’s house, 21
Hockley in the Hole, 98
Hodmogoge hills, 48
Hogue, La, Battle of, 126
Holderness, 70
Holderness, Earle of, 183
Holderness, Earle of, his house Hornby Castle, 184
Hole, Elden, 85
Hole, Poole’s, 84
Holly thorn, Glasenbury, 204
Holly Well, 149, 150
Holmes, Sir Robert, 41
Holt, Aunt, house of, at Murstead, 20
Holt, Mr, 30
Home Peirpoynt, 55
Honiton, 231
Honiton Lace, 231
Hop Yards in Kent, 100
Hopton, Lady, her house, 34
Hornby, 285
Hornby Castle, 184
Horne, Mrs, at Winchester, 233
Horrwood, Great, 21
Horrwood, Mineral water at, 22
Horse fodder, Cornish, 227
Horse shoeing in Westmoreland, 164
Horse, White, Vale of, 18
Horsman, Mr, his house at Streton, 54
Horsy Beach, 43
Horwood, 97
Hospitals at Leicester, 134
Houndslow, 21
Houndslow-heath, 241
Houses of Parliament, 268, 269, 270, 271, 272, 273, 274, 275
Hovels in Cumberland, 169
Howard, Sir Robert, his house, 290
Howard, Sir Robert, his house, 292
Hoyle, 217
Hull, 69,70
Hull, River, 69
Humber, River, 69
Hungerford, 17
Huntington, 50
Huntington, 131
Hurst Castle, 40
Husy, Mr, at Whitchurch, 233
Hyrick, Major of Leicester, 134
Ill guides in Cornwall, 222
Income, Mr Colifford’s house at, 7
Incomes of Kent yeomanry, 112
Inns of Court, 261
Inns, want of, in Scotland, 172, 173
Inquisitiveness, Cornish, 222
Instree, 143
Ipswitch, 116
Ireland, Lords Justices of, 280
Ireland, Lord Lieutenant of, 280
Iron Mines in Kent, 111
Isle of Man, 153
Isle of Purbeck, 6
Isle of Wight, 40
Itching Hill, 139
Ives, St, 131
Ives, St, 222
James’s Palace, St, 248
James’s Park, St, 248
Journey, Northern, of Celia Fiennes in 1697, 48
Journey to Newcastle and Cornwall, 114
Judge Poppum, burying place of, 3
Judges, 261
Judges’ Circuits, 263, 264
Jury Wall at Leicester, 134
Justice, Courts of, 260
Kanktown, 194
Kankwood, 136, 137, 138
Kankwood, 139
Kankwood, 194
Katherine Hall, Cambridge, 50
Kederminster, 194
Kendall, 158
Kensington, 21
Kensington, 115
Kensington, King William’s house in, 249
Kent, Mineral Waters in, 112
Kentish Cherries, 107
Killinghall, Mr, 118
King William the Third, 95
King’s Arms, Kendall, 159
King’s Bench Prison, 266
King’s Colledge, 25
King’s Colledge, Cambridge, 240
King’s Mead, Bath, 14
King’s Park at Bagshott, 21
King’s revenues, 280
King’s Stone, the, 23
Kingston, 32
Kingston, Lord, his house Home Peirpoynt, 55
Kingston on Hull, 69
Kingston, Sir William Muese, house of, 7
Kingston-on-Thames, 20
Kingswood, 199
Knarsebrough, 184
Knarsborough Castle, ruins of, 61
Knarsborough, Sir Robert Chapple at, 61
Knarsborough, Spaw at, 61
Knighton, Sir Robt. Dillington’s house at, 41
Knights of the Bath, 259
Knights of Winsor, poore, 234
Knitting in Suffolk and Norfolk, 119, 122
Lace, Honiton, 231
Lackington Green, 111
Lamborn, 17
Lamprys at Glocester, 198
Lancaster, 157
Landlady, a religious, 226
Land’s End, 223
Landsdon, 199
Landsdon Hill, 199
Landsdown, Lady, 168
Lanes, Devonshire, 211, 212
Lanes in Devonshire, 9
Lansdown, Lord, his house Louder Hall, 166
Lanston, 229
Lanston Castle, 229
Larence, Lady, house of at Finnum, 7
Latterworth hand, 285
Law, Tryalls at, 277, 278, 279
Law terms, 262, 263
Lead, Black, 157
Leatherhead, 302
Leeds, 184
Leicester, 133
Leicester, Hospitals at, 134
Leicester Priory, 133
Leicester sheep, 133
Leicestershire, nature of soil, 133
Lester, Lord, his seate Spenshurst, 111
Leverpoole, 152
Leveston Gore, Mr, his house, 146
Library, Cambridge University, 49
Lid, River, 184
Liegh, 232
Liene, River, 157
Lime, 8
Lime, River, 173
Limington, 38
Lin, River, 50
Lincoln, 54
Lindhurst, King’s house at, 39
Linn, River, 127
Linnen at Maulton, 74
Linnen Cloth at Manchester, 188
Liquorish at Pomffret, 76
List of some places mentioned, 311-319
Lister, Mr, his house, 188
Litchfield, 90
Litchfield, 93
Litchfield, 135
Litchfield Minster, 90
Little-berry, 48
Lizard Point, 223
Lizard Point, seen from Lime, 9
Lobsters and Crabs at Finnum, 7
Lobsters, &c, at Brownsea, 6
London, 241
London Bridge, 247
London, Corporation of, 241, 242
London to Alesbury, 21
London to Broughton, journey from, 290, 291, 292
Long Town, 173
Lonn, 217
Lord George, monument to, 2
Lord Liegh, 93
Lord Major, Gifts to, 244
Lord Major’s Show, 242, 243, 244
Loss of Clothes, 182
Louder Hall, 166
Louder, River, 166
Lucas, Lord, his house at Colchester, 115
Lug, River, 34
Lumly Castle, 179
Lundy, Isle of, 229
Lye from ffern, 89
Madam Scott Hill, 114
Mag and her sisters, 168
Maiden Hair fern for Consumption, 236
Maiden Hill, 203
Maiden Newton, 233
Maidenhead, 20
Maidenhead, 21
Maidstone, 106
Malbrough, quarter session at, 3
Mamtour, 86
Man, Isle of, 153
Manbora Hills, 33
Manchester, 187
Mansfield, 57
Maple Duram, 20
Marlborough, Duchess of, her house, 308
Marlborough, Duke of, house at St Albans, 98
Marlow, 197
Marsh, Dr, 292
Marsh, Dr, at Dunstable, 98
Marshalsea Prison, 266
Martin, Judge Harry, 215
Martin’s Mer, 153
Mary, Queen, her picture, 19
Maudline Hall, 25
Maudline Hill, hop and cheese fair on, 36
Maulbern Hills like the Alps, 288
Maulbery, 283, 284
Maulton, 74
Meat, price of, at Rippon, 65
Medway, 99
Meer, Castle of, 10
Meeteing at Wellington, 206
Meeteing place at Rochdale, 187
Meeting the Sheriff’s retinue, 194
Melborn, Sir Mark, his house, 183
Mellish, Mr, his house at Blith, 57
Mentioned, List of some places, 311-319
Meresy, River, 152
Merly by Wimborn, 5
Metropolis, the, 241
Middleton, Lady, 158
Mighty Tom, 25
Milbrook, 213
Milbrook, 216
Miles, length of, in Derbyshire, 88
Miles, length of, in Lancashire, 156
Miles, length of, in Yorkshire, 74
Miles long in Essex, 117
Miles long in Norfolk and Suffolk, 119
Miles longer in the North, 173
Miles, number travelled in 1697, 108
Miles, Yorkshire, 184
Mindiffe Coal, 4
Mineral spring at Canterbery, 102
Mineral springs on Shuter’s Hill, 108
Mineral water at Astrop, 23
Mineral waters at Epsom, 289
Mineral water at Horrwood, 22
Mineral waters in Kent, 112
Mines at Ashburn, Copper, 88
Mines in Derbyshire, 82
Mines in Flintshire, 151
Ministers, Cabinet, 280
Minster, Beverly, 68
Minster, Ely, 128, 129
Minster, Litchfield, 90
Minster, Rippon, 65
Minster, Yorke, 59
Mint at Norwitch, 121
Mint, The, at Yorke, 60
Mist on Blackstone Edge, 186
Mole, 302
Mole, the, at Lime, 8
Moles, 32
Montgomery, Sir Thos, 117
Monument, London, 247
Monuments in Beverly Minster, 69
Monuments in St George’s Chappel, 235
Moore, Mr, his house, 302, 303
Morton Hindmost, 22
Morton Hindmost, 33
Morton Hindmost, 288
Mottstone, 41
Mount Edge Comb, 215
Mount Ephraim, 110
Mount Sion, 110
Mount, The, in Cornwall, 222
Mountague, Lord, his house, 248
Mucks Hall, 173
Muese, Sir William, house of at Kingston, 7
Musgrove, Sir Charles, his house, 181
Nantwitch, 147
Nantwitch, 189
Narsby, 135
Nedwood Forest, 139
Nedwood Forest, 143
Needles, The, 40
Neglected church at Adison Bank, 172
New Colledge, 25
New Colledge, 37
New Colledge, belonging to the ffiennes’s, 28
New Forest, 39
New Forest, journey to, 35
New House, seat of John ffiennes, 33
New Market heath, 125
Newark, 134
Newbery, 21
Newbery, 289
Newbury, 30
Newcastle and Cornwall, journey to, 114
Newcastle, Dissenters at, 181
Newcastle, Duke of, his house Welbeake, 57
Newcastle under Line, 146
Newcastle upon Tyne, 174, 175, 176, 177, 178
Newhouse, 197
Newport, 40
Newton, 19
Newtontony, 9
Newtontony, from, to Bath, 11
Newtontony to Durly, 20
Newtontony, Wiltshire, 1
Nicholas Island, St, 215
Nightingales, Cornish, 227
Noblemen’s houses in London, 248
Nonsuch, 114
Norborn, Mr, 117
Nore, 99
Norfolk, Duke of, his house at Norwich, 121
Norfolk, Duke of, his park, 32
Normans Court, 46
North, Lord Chief Justice, his picture, 20
Northern Journey of Celia Fiennes in 1697, 48
Northfleete, 107
Norton, Colonel, his house at Southwicke, 42
Norton, Lord Say’s seat at, 19
Norton, Sir Thomas, his house, 93
Northampton, 96
Northampton Church, 284
Northumberland, entrance into, 173
Norwitch, 119, 120, 121, 122
Norwitch, 188
Norwitch Castle, 121
Nosel, Earle of Darby’s house, 153
Note Vale, 55
Nottingham, 55
Nottingham ale, 55, 56
Nottingham Castle, 56
Number of Churches in Sarum, 3
Nun’s thread, 11
Nunwell, Sir John Oglander’s house at, 41
Nurstead, 20
Nurstead, Mr Holl’s house at, 30
Nymphsffield, 199
Oakey Hole, 202
Oakingham, 230
Oate bread, 156
Oglander, Sir John, his house at Nunwell, 41
Old Bayly, 263
One horse race at Panckridge, 138
Orchards in Somersetshire, 8
Orfford, Lord, his house, 125
Organ in Exeter Cathedral,210
Ormskerk, 153
Ouborn, 292
Ouise, River, 22
Ouise, River, at York, 58
Ouse, River, 174
Oxborn, 97
Oxenbridge, Mr, house of at Piddle, 7
Oxford, 24-28
Oxford, bread at, 26
Oxford, cultivation near, 24
Oxford, enumeration of Halls and Colledges at, 28
Oxford, Physick garden at, 26
Oxford University, founders’ names, 26
Oysters at Colchester, 116
Pack horses near Kendall, 160
Pack horses in Cornwall and Devon, 225
Pack horses in Devonshire, 9
Pack horses in Devonshire, 213
Packington, Sir John, his house, 195
Paget, Lord, his great command and royalty, 286
Paget, Lord, his house Boudezworth, 138
Paget, Lord, his house Budsworth, 285
Panckeridge, 194
Panckeridge race, 138
Paper Making at Canterbery, 101
Papists at St Winfred’s Well, 150
Papists in Durham, 180
Parke, Hide, 249
Parke House, 249
Parliament, Houses of, 268, 269, 270, 271, 272, 273, 274, 275
Parliament men, choosing, 184
Parliament men, choosing at Durham, 180
Parliament men, Electers of, 195
Parr, 217
Parshur, 33
Parsonages, revenues of Lancashire, 156
Parson’s garden at Banstead, the, 301
Patsell, Sir Thomas, his house, 192, 193
Paul’s Cathedrall, St, 247
Paul’s Schoole, 246
Paumes, Mr, 74
Paving stones, Cornish, 228
Peak Cavern, 87
Peat in Westmoreland, 163
Peeping Tom of Coventry, 92
Peirpoynt, Mr, his house, 194
Pembrooke, Earl of, gardens at Wilton, 4
Pembroke, Earl of, his house at Wilton, 4
Pen Ma Mower, 151
Pensands, 222, 223
Penthouses in Chester, 148
Percivall, Dr, his house at Harding, 148, 149
Percy, Earl, tomb at Beverly Minster, 68
Peroth, 165, 168
Perpoynt, Lady Grace, house at Pomffret, 75
Peterborough, 50
Peterborough, 131
Peterborough Cathedral, 131
Peterborough, Earle of, 234
Peterborough, Earle of, his house, Turvoy, 284
Petersffield, 20
Petrifying earth at Asply, 292
Philip Norton, 11
Phillips, Sir Christopher, 160
Physick garden at Oxford, 26
Picts’ Walls, 173
Picture, Charles the ffirst’s, at St John’s, 27
Picture gallery at Euston Hall, 123
Picture of Gustaus Adolphus at St John’s, 27
Piddle, Mr Oxenbridge’s house at, 7
Piddletown, 233
Pink, River, 137
Pirats and privateers, 221
Places mentioned, list of some, 311-319
Plain, Salsebury, 10
Plantations, foreign, governours of, 280
Plodds, 171
Ploughing in Leicestershire, 135
Plym, River, 213
Plymouth, 212, 213, 214
Plymouth Citadel, 214
Plymouth, Dissenters at, 214
Plymouth Dockyard, 214
Poisonous Water at Ackington, 76
Pomffret, 75
Poole, 5
Poole’s Hole, 84
Popler, 108
Porchester, 42
Port Eliot, 213
Portsmouth, 41
Portsmouth Castle, 42
Post between London and Tunbridge, 110
Pottery in Staffordshire, 146
Pratt, Sir George, house at Coalsell, 17
Preadnea, Mr, his house, 232
Prescote, 153
Preston, 154, 155
Prestwich, 194
Price of Ale in Yorkshire, 185
Price of Meat at Rippon, 65
Pride and sloth at Ipswitch, 116
Priory, Leicester, 133
Provisions and Wine in Fflintshire, 150
Provisions, price of at Newcastle, 177
Pullets at Chesterffield, 77
Punishments, Criminalls’, 264, 265
Purbeck, Isle of, 6
Purbeck, Viscount, his seate Summerhill, 112
Purple, dying at Winchester, 36
Quagmires near Buxton, 86
Quaker hospitality, 71
Quakers at Scarbrough, 74
Quare, 7
Quarries and Coale pitts in Yorkshire, 185
Quarries, freestone, 6
Queen Ann, Coronation of, at Bath, 15
Queen Camell, 11
Queen Mary’s funeral, 250
Queen’s Colledge, 25
Queen’s Colledge, Cambridge, 50
Queen’s Colledge Library, 27
Quicksands near Worcester, 286
Race, between English and Scotch footmen, 308
Radcote, 17
Rawnelaugh, Lord, his house, 308
Reading, 284
Red Horse, Vale of, 35
Redbridge, 38
Redbridge, 42
Redding, 21
Redruth, 221
Reeke River, 133
Reeke, The, 191
Reekee, the high hill, 139
Regalia at the Tower, 260
Religious landlady, a 226
Revenues of Lancashire parsonages, 156
Revenues, King’s, 280
Rhye, effects of, in bread, 159
Rich, Sir Robert, 118
Richard the Third, King, 133
Richmond, Yorkshire, 183, 184
Richmondshire, 183
Rippon, 65
Rippon Minster, 65
River Stour, 5
Roads, bad state of, in fen district, 131
Roads, Cornwall, 216
Roads in Sussex, 20
Robbing place, Blackheath a noted, 108
Rochdale, 187
Rochester, 99
Rochester, 107
Rochester, bridge at, 100
Rochester, Lady, house of, at Adderbery, 19
Rochly, Sir Walter, his house, 194
Rotheram, 76
Rowlandson, Mrs, 159
Rowle Stone, 23
Rowles, Sir ffrancis, his house, 46
Roxton, 19
Royal Charles, The 42
Royal Exchange, 247
Royal James, The, 42
Royal Sovereign, 241
Royston, 99
Rumsey, 43
Runnet making, 91
Russell, Adml., his house, 125
Rust Hall, 110
Ruth, Mr, his house at Epsom, 295, 296, 297
Rutland, Earle of, his house, 56
Rutland, Earl of, his house, Haddon Hall, 82
Rutlandshire, 51
Rye, 112, 113
St Albans, 98
St Alban’s Cathedral, 98
St Andrew’s Well, 204
St Ann’s Well, 84
St Austin’s, 217
St Barbe, Sir John, his house, 43, 44, 45
St Edmundsbery, 124
St Ives, 222
St Ives, 131
St James’s Palace, 248
St James’s Park, 248
St John, Mrs, her house near Peterborough, 132
St John’s Colledge, 2
St John’s Colledge, Cambridge, 50
St Juliers, 98
St Magdaline’s Colledge, 25
St Monger’s Well, 63, 64
St Nicholas, 98
St Paul’s Cathedrall, 247, 248
St Thomas’s, 144
St Vincent’s Rocks, 201
St Winfred’s Well, 149
Salden, 97
Salfor, 188
Salisbury house, Strand, 209
Salmon at Lancaster, 158
Salmon at Whitten, 68
Salmon spearing in the River Can, 159
Salsebury, 9
Salsebury, burning of, 1
Salsebury Castle, 1
Salsebury Plain, 10
Salt making at Nantwitch, 147
Salt, method of making, 38
Salt spring near Durham, 181
Salt works, 188
Saltash, 213
Salterns at Limington, 38
Samfyer, 161
Sanctuary in Beverley Minster, 68
Sands of Dee, 149, 151
Sandumffort, 40
Sandwich, Lord, his house at Huntington, 50
Sandwitch, 105
Sandy Head, 189
Sarum, 1
Sarum, Bishop’s Palace, 2
Sarum Cathedral, 2
Sarum Close, 1
Sarum, Dean’s House, 2
Sarum Market, 1
Sarum, Number of Churches in, 3
Savernack Forrest, 284
Saxmunday, 117
Say and Seale, William Lord, 229
Say, Lord, seat at Broughton, 19
Say, Lord, seat at Norton, 19
Scarsborough, 72, 73
Scawen, Mr, his house, 292
Scheld, 175
School, free, at Beverly, 69
Schoole, Shrewsbury, 190
Scotch Borderers, sloth of, 172
Scotland, travelling in, 172
Scottish borderers, 171, 172
Scotts Plods, 159
Sea Cume, 6
Serges at Exeter, 207
Sergeants at Law, making, 261
Serke, River, 170
Severn, 33
Severn, River, 190
Sherwood, Forest of, 57
Show, Lord Majors, 242, 243, 244
Shuggbery Hall, 95, 96
Shuggbery, Lady, hospitality of, 96
Shuggbery, Sir Charles, 95
Shark River, 18
Sheep, Leicester, 136
Shellton, 73
Shettford, 19
Shilton, 51
Shipbuilding at Rochester, 100
Shipping on River Thames, 108
Showers, Mr, 115
Shrewsbury, 190, 191
Shrewsbury Schoole, 190
Shuter’s Hill, 108
Shuter’s Hill, mineral springs on, 108
Signboards in Bristol, 200
Silk weaving at Canterbery, 101
Sily, Island of, 223
Sir George Pratt’s house at Coalsell, 17
Sir Philip Sidney’s Arcadia, 4
Sir Richard Temple, house of, 22
Sir Ralph Verny, seats of, 22
Sir Robert Hendly’s house, 21
Sir Thomas Tyrrell, house of, 22
Sittingburn, 100
Smith, Sir Robert, 38
Smoaking, universal in Cornwall, 218
Smockington, 285
Some places mentioned, list of, 311-319
Somerset, Duke of, his house at Maulbery, 283
Somersetshire, Cider in, 8
Somersetshire, orchards in, 8
Sonidge, 6
Sore, River, 137
South Sea Castle, 42
Southborough, 101
South-hampton, 42
Southwicke, 42
Sow, River, 133
Sparr, Derbyshire, 83
Spaw, Scarbrough, 73
Spaw waters near Durham, 181, 182
Speldhurst, 112
Spenhurst, 111
Sports in Wiltshire, 1
Stafford, 137, 143
Staffordshire, 88, 89
Staffordshire Pottery, 146
Staines, 21
Stanes, 284
Stamfford, 51
Stamford, 131
Starre Cross, 232
Steeven, Mrs, her house at Epsom, 299
Stepney, 108
Stiles Coppice, 138
Stiles in Cornwall, 226
Stillton, 131
Stoake, 196
Stoake, 286, 287
Stoake, Mr Paul Folie’s seat, 34
Stocking weaving, 56
Stockton, Mr, 116
Stoneage, description of, 10
Stonidge Hall, 77
Stony Stratford, 97
Stour, River, 5
Strand, King’s Pallace in the, 249
Streton, 54
Stretton Grandsorm, 196
Stow, 22
Stow, 229
Suddber Hall, 184
Summerhill, 112
Summerset, Duke and Duchess of, Monument to, 3
Sunderland, Lord, his house, 285
Sussex, Earle of, his house, 48
Sussex, roads in, 20
Sutton, 130
Sutton near Astrop, 24
Swallow hole, 302
Swallow holes, 32
Swallow, River, 32
Swans in Ely fens, 131
Tadcaster, 74
Tamworth, 135
Tamworth, River, 135
Tankervaile, Lord, house of at Chichester, 30
Tarts, West Country, 218
Tatnum, 108
Taunton, 205
Taylor, Mr, house at Rochdale, 187
Tees, River, 174
Temple, Sir Richard, house of, 22
Tetbery Castle, 139
Thames at Gravesend, 99
Thames, River, 196
Thames, River, choaked up, 241
Thames, River, shipping on, 108
Thannet, Isle of, 105
Thatching in Cornwall, 225
Thetford, 122
Thetwin, Mr, his house Instree, 143, 144
Thom, Great, of Lincoln, 54
Thomas, Mr, his house at Highgate, 115
Thomas’s, St, 144
Thorndon, 22
Thriving place, Manchester a, 188
Tilbery fort, 99
Tin mining, 218, 219
Tinsmelting, 218
Tinmouth, 175
Titherly, East, 46
Titherly, West, 46
Tixall Hall, 144
Tod Caster, 58
Tom, Mighty, 25
Tom of £10,000, 286
Topsham, 231
Topshum, 207
Tower, the, 259
Tracy, Lord, house of, 22
Travelling in Scotland, 172
Trent, River, 55
Trent River, 133
Trent, River, 146
Trentum, 146
Trinity Colledge, 25
Trinity Colledge, Cambridge, 49
Trinity Colledge Chapple, 27
Trinity House at Hull, 70
Truro, 221
Truro, 226
Tryalls at Law, 277, 278, 279
Tunbridge, 109, 110
Tunbridge, mineral waters at, 109
Turf as fuel, 219
Turnumgreen, 21
Turvoy, 284
Tyne, River, 174
Tyrrell, Sir Thomas, house of, 22
Ullswater, 165
University, Cambridge, 49
University, Oxford, 25
Upton, 33
Uval, River, 188
Uxeter, 88
Vale of Red Horse, 35
Vale of White Horse, 18
Veale, The, 21
Vermin at Ely, 128
Verny, Sir Ralph, seats of, 22
Views from Winsor Castle, 236
Villages in Westmoreland, 164
Vincent’s Rocks, St, 201
Waddom Hall, 25
Wains in Devonshire, 9
Wansford, 51
Wansford, 132
Wansford “in England,” 132
Warminster, 4
Warminster, 11
Warrington, 152, 154
Warrington, Earle of, his house Dunum, 188
Warrum, 6
Warwick, 93
Warwick Castle, 94
Warwick Church, ruins of, 93
Warwick, Earle of, Guy, 95
Warworth, 105
Water works at Exeter, 209
Wangfford, 51
Waveny, River, 119
Way Hill faire, 21
Weather forecasts by sound of water, 159
Weire, River, 179
Welbeake, 57
Well, St Ann’s, 84
Well, The burning, 154
Wellington, 206
Wells, 203
Wells Cathedral, 203
Welsh at Holly Well, 150
Welsh Prince, Mary of Modina’s, 199
Wentbridge, 58
West Chester, 147
West Country rockets, 205
West Country tarts, 218
West Titherly, 46
Westminster, 241
Westminster Abbey, 249
Westminster Hall, 260
Westmoreland, 158, 159, 160, 161, 162, 163, 164, 165
Westmoreland, Carts in, 162
Westmoreland hills, 162, 163
Whart, River, 58
Whatling Streete, 285
Whipps made at Newbery, 21
Whit Church, 189, 190
Whit Church, 233
White Horse, Vale of, 18
Whitehall, 236
Whitehall Palace, 248
Whitehead, Mr, his house, 46
Whitlsome Mer, 51
Whitten, 67
Wiandermer, Lake, 160, 161
Wickam, William of, 37
Wickham, 117
Wight, Isle of, 40
Wild beasts at the Tower, 260
Willding, 11
William and Mary, Coronation of, 255
William of Wickam, 37
William the Third, King, 95
Willoughby, Sir Thos., his house, 56
Wincanton, 10
Winchelsea, Corporation of, 113
Wilton, 4
Wilton, Knights of the shire chosen at, 4
Wiltshire Downs, 1
Wiltshire sports, 1
Winchelsea, 113
Winchelsea Castle, 113
Winchelsea, Lord, his house, 106
Winchester, 36
Winchester, Bishop of, his castle, 35
Winchester, Bishop of, his pallace, 233
Winchester Cathedral, 36
Winchester Colledge, 37
Winchester, Dean’s House at, 36
Windham, 122
Winfred’s Well, St, 149
Winsor, 234, 240
Winsor, 309
Winsor Castle, 21
Winsor, poore knights of, 234
Woad, cultivation of, 23
Wolds, Yorkshire, 72
Woodbery Hill, fair at, 9
Woodbridge, 117
Woodcut Green, 292
Wooden ware at Tunbridge, 109
Wood’s Gate, 112
Woodstock, 32
Woolfe, Mr Newbery’s house at, 7
Woollen cloth at Leeds, 185
Woollen stuff at Norwitch, 119, 121
Woollen worke at Bedford, 291
Woolsey, 36
Woolsley, 89
Woolsley, 143
Woolsley, 136, 137
Woolsley, Bridget, 98
Woolsley, Sir Charles, his house, 89
Woolsley, Sir Charles, his house, 136
Woolsly, 194
Woolsly, Sir Charles, his gardens, 146
Wolverhampton, 194
Worcester, 33
Worcester, 195
Worcester Cathedrall, 195
Works, copperas, 6
Worstly, Sir Robert, 41
Worsup Abby, 57
Waterwheels, Cornish, 227
Whatling Street, 192
Wiggon, 153
William, King, his return after the peace, 245, 246
Winsor Castle, 234, 236, 237, 238 239, 241
Worsup Mannour, 57
Wye, River, 34
Yarmouth, 40
Yarmouth, 119
Yate, good level, in Yorkshire, 75
Yeomanry of Kent, incomes of, 112
York, 67
Yorke, 58
Yorke Minster, 59
Yorke, Mr, his house, 184
Yoxsell, 143
Yoxwell, 139
------------------------------------------------------------------------
● Transcriber’s Notes:
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letters to be superscripts. as in "w^{th}" for "with".
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○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.
○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only
when a predominant form was found in this book.
○ Text that:
was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_);
had extra character spacing by “plus” signs (+stretched+).
○ The use of a caret (^) before a letter, or letters, shows that the
following letter or letters was intended to be a superscript, as
in S^t Bartholomew or 10^{th} Century.
○ The use of an underscore before a letter shows that the following
letter or letters were intended to be a subscript.
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