The Project Gutenberg eBook of An historical account of all the voyages round the world, performed by English navigators, vol. 4 of 4
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Title: An historical account of all the voyages round the world, performed by English navigators, vol. 4 of 4
Including those lately undertaken by order of His present Majesty. The whole faithfully extracted from the journals of the voyagers
Editor: David Henry
Release date: March 4, 2026 [eBook #78104]
Language: English
Original publication: London: F. Newbery, 1773
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/78104
Credits: Raymond Papworth and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF ALL THE VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD, PERFORMED BY ENGLISH NAVIGATORS, VOL. 4 OF 4 ***
Transcriber’s Note: Italic text is enclosed in _underscores_.
Superscript characters are preceded by ^. Small capital text has been
changed to all capital. Additional notes will be found near the end of
this ebook.
AN
HISTORICAL ACCOUNT
OF ALL THE
VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD,
PERFORMED BY
ENGLISH NAVIGATORS;
INCLUDING THOSE LATELY UNDERTAKEN
By ORDER of his PRESENT MAJESTY.
THE WHOLE
Faithfully Extracted from the JOURNALS of the
VOYAGERS.
DRAKE, undertaken in 1577-80
CAVENDISH, 1586-88
COWLEY, 1683-86
DAMPIER, 1689-96
COOKE, 1708-11
ROGERS, 1708-11
CLIPPERTON and SHELVOCKE, 1719-22
ANSON, 1740-44
BYRON, 1764-66
WALLIS, 1766-68
CARTERET, 1766-69
COOK, 1768-71
TOGETHER WITH
That of SYDNEY PARKINSON, Draftsman to JOSEPH BANKS, Esq; who
circumnavigated the Globe with Capt. COOK, in his Majesty’s Ship the
ENDEAVOUR.
AND
The Voyage of Mons. BOUGAINVILLE round the World, Performed by Order of
the French King.
Illustrated with Maps, Charts, and Historical Prints.
IN FOUR VOLUMES.
To which is added,
An APPENDIX. Containing the JOURNAL of a VOYAGE to the NORTH POLE, by
the Hon. Commodore PHIPPS, and Captain LUTWIDGE.
─────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
VOLUME THE FOURTH.
═════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════
LONDON:
Printed for F. NEWBERY, the Corner of St. Paul’s Church-Yard.
─────────────
M DCC LXXIII.
CAPTAIN
COOK’s
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD.
In 1768, 1769, 1770 and 1771.
The short intercourse which the English gentlemen had with the
inhabitants of New Holland, prevented them from obtaining so perfect a
knowledge of the language of these people as could have been wished;
but, as it is an object too curious to be passed over in silence, we
shall give our readers the most particular account that could be
procured. They articulated their words very distinctly, though they made
a great motion with their lips when they were speaking, and their
utterance was rather vociferous, particularly when they intended to shew
their disapprobation of any thing. When they were pleased, they would
manifest their satisfaction by saying _hee_, with a long flexion of the
voice, in a loud and shril tone. They frequently repeated the word
_tut_, when in company with the English, several times together, which
was supposed to be an expression of astonishment and admiration; upon
the whole, their language was neither harsh nor inharmonious, as will
appear from the following vocabulary.
A VOCABULARY of the language of the inhabitants of NEW HOLLAND.
Wageegee, _The head_.
Eiyamoac, _The crown of the head_.
Moree, _The hair of the head_.
Walloo, _The temples_.
Peete, _The forehead_.
Meul, _The eyes_.
Garbar, _The eye-brows_.
Melea, _The ears_.
Bonjoo, _The nose_.
Yembe, _The lips_.
Mulere, _The teeth_.
Unjar, _The tongue_.
Tacal, _The chin_.
Waller, _The beard_.
Doomboo, _The neck_.
Morcol, _The throat_.
Coyor, _The breast_.
Gippa, _The belly_.
Mocoo, _The back_.
Aco, _The arms_.
Mangal, _The hands_.
Eboorbalga, _The thumb_.
Nakil, _The little finger_.
Pongo, _The knees_.
Peegoorga, _The legs_.
Edamal, _The feet_.
Kolke, _The nails_.
Bamma, _A man_.
Mootjel, _A woman_.
Dunjo, _A father_.
Tumurree, _A son_.
Tennapuke, _The hole made in the nostrils for the reception of
the bone ornament_.
Cotta, _A dog_.
Poteea, _Fish_.
Putai, _A turtle_.
Tabugga, _A fly_.
Walboolbool, _A butterfly_.
Zoocoo, _Wood_.
Maianang, _Fire_.
Poorai, _Water_.
Poapoa, _Earth_.
Galan, _The sun_.
Wulgar, _The clouds_.
Kere, _The sky_.
Boota, _To eat_.
Chucula, _To drink_.
Marra, _To go_.
Mingoore, _To dance_.
Mailelel, _To swim_.
Aibudje, _To yawn_.
Poona, _To sleep_.
Wonananio, _Asleep_.
Tocaya, _Sit down_.
Eya & ba, _That or this_.
Te, _A_, _or the_.
We shall now proceed to give an account of their passage from New South
Wales to New Guinea, with a recital of the incidents which happened on
their landing on the last mentioned country.----Early in the morning of
the 24th of August 1770, the cable broke near the ring, in the attempt
to weigh the anchor; on which another anchor was dropped, which
prevented the ship’s driving. As the loss of an anchor might have been
attended with future ill consequences, the boats were sent to sweep for
it; but their first attempt being unsuccessful, they were dispatched
again in the afternoon, when it was found, and the ship being brought up
to it, they weighed it; yet, unfortunately, just as they were going to
ship it, the hawser slipped, and all their labour was frustrated.
Determined, however, not to lose the anchor, they re-applied their
endeavours on the following morning, when they were attended with
success.
Soon after the anchor was weighed, the ship got under sail, steering
north-west, and in a few hours one of the boats, which was a-head, made
the signal for shoal-water. The ship instantly brought to, with all her
sails standing, and a survey being taken of the sea around her, it was
found that she had met with another narrow escape, as she was almost
encompassed with shoals; and was likewise so situated between them, that
she must have struck before the boat’s crew had made the signal, if she
had been half the length of a cable on either side. In the afternoon she
made sail with the ebb tide, and got out of danger before sun-set, when
she brought to for the night.
The meeting with these shoals having determined the Captain to alter his
intended course, he sailed again the next morning (Sunday the 26th) and
soon got into deep water. They now steered a westward course, and, as no
land was within sight, held it on till the dusk of the evening, when
they shortened sail, and made opposite tacks during the night. The next
morning they pursued their voyage, again shortening sail at night, and
tacking till day-break of the 28th, when they steered due north, in
search of New Guinea.
They now observed many parts of the sea covered with a kind of brown
scum, to which the sailors gave the name of Spawn. It is formed of an
incredible number of minute particles, each of which, when seen through
the microscope, was found to consist of a considerable number of tubes,
and these tubes were subdivided into little cells. The scum being burnt,
and yeilding no smell like what is produced by animal substances, it was
concluded that it was of the vegetable kind. This scum, which has been
often seen on the coast of Brazil, generally makes its appearance near
the land.--A bird, which is called the Noddy, was found this evening
among the rigging of the ship. Land having been seen this day from the
mast-head, they stood off and on all night, and at day-break they sailed
towards it with a brisk gale.
Between six and seven o’clock they had sight of a small island, distant
about three miles from the main land, which has already been
distinguished by the names of St. Bartholomew, and Whermoysen. It is a
very flat island, clothed with trees, among which is the cocoa-nut; and
was judged to be inhabited, by the smoke of fires which were seen on
several parts of it. The boats were now sent out to sound, as the water
was shallow; but as the ship, in sailing two leagues, had found no
increase in its depth, signals were made for the boats to return on
board, and the vessel stood out to sea till midnight, and then tacked,
and stood in for land till the morning. When they were about four
leagues distant from it, they had sight of it from the deck, and its
appearance was still flat and woody. Abundance of the brown scum was
still seen on the surface of the sea, and the Tars, convinced that it
was not spawn, gave it the whimsical name of Sea-saw-dust.
The ship now held a northward course, barely within sight of land, till
the 3d of September; and as the water was but just deep enough to
navigate the vessel, many unsuccessful attempts were made to bring her
near enough to get on shore: it was therefore determined to land in one
of the boats, while the ship kept plying off and on.
In consequence of this resolution, on the 3d of September, the Captain,
accompanied by Messrs. Banks and Solander, and attended by the boat’s
crew and Mr. Banks’s servants, set out in the pinnace; but when they
came within two hundred yards of the shore the water was so shallow,
that they were obliged to leave the boat, in the care of two of the
sailors, and wade to land. They were no sooner clear of the water, than
they saw several prints of human feet on the sand, below
high-water-mark, from whence it was evident, that the natives had been
very lately there. About one hundred yards from the water there was a
thick wood, along the borders of which they walked till they arrived on
the banks of a brook of water, on which was situated a fine grove of
cocoa-nut trees, which abounded with fruit.
At a small distance from the trees stood an Indian hut, which had been
thatched with their leaves, of which some yet remained; and round the
hut were scattered many cocoa-nut-shells, the fruit of which seemed to
have been lately gathered. Not far from this grew the bread-fruit tree,
and a number of plantains.
Our adventurers were now near a quarter of a mile from the pinnace, when
three of the natives ran out of the woods, about one hundred yards
beyond them, shouting in the most violent manner. They instantly ran
towards our countrymen, the first of the three throwing something out of
his hand, which flew on one side of him, burning in the same manner as
gunpowder, but making no noise, while the other two threw their lances.
The English now fired; when the natives stopped, and cast another lance,
on which the muskets were loaded with ball, and again fired.--The poor
Indians now ran off with expedition, having, most probably, been wounded
in the unequal conflict. Captain Cook and his companions, unwilling
farther to injure those who could not originally have intended them any
harm, retreated hastily to the boat, while the men, that had been left
in the care of her, made signals that more of the natives were advancing
towards the coast; several of these were soon seen, and stood still, as
if waiting for the main body of their companions. Captain Cook and the
party having reached the boat, rowed a-breast of the natives, who by
this time were assembled to the number of about eighty. Their stature
was nearly the same with that of the inhabitants of New South Wales, but
their colour was not quite so dark: but, like them, they wore their hair
cropped short. During the survey that was taken of them, they continued
letting off their fires, a few at a time, in a kind of regular platoons;
they were discharged by means of a piece of stick, almost like a hollow
cane, which being swung sideways, produced fire and smoke exactly like
that occasioned by the firing of small arms. The crew on board the ship
saw this strange phenomenon, and thought the natives had fire-arms. The
gentlemen having satisfied their curiosity by attentively looking at
these people, fired some musquets above their heads, the balls from
which being heard to rattle among the trees, the natives deliberately
retired. The lances which had been thrown soon after the gentlemen
landed were made of a reed or bamboo cane, and the points were made of
hard wood, barbed in several places; it is imagined, that these lances
were discharged by means of a throwing stick, as they flew with great
swiftness above sixty yards.
When this party returned to the ship, some of the officers entreated the
Captain to send men on shore to cut down the cocoa-nut trees, in order
to procure the nuts; but this, with equal wisdom and humanity, he
refused; sensible that the poor Indians, who could ill brook even the
landing of a small party, on their coast, would risk their lives, and of
course sacrifice them, in defence of their property. The whole coast of
this country is low-land, but cloathed with a richness of trees and
herbage, which exceeds all description.
On Monday, the 3d of September, 1770, the ship got under sail, and early
in the morning of the 6th passed two small islands, on the latter of
which Captain Cook would have landed, but as they had then only ten
fathom water, and as the ground was rocky and the wind blew fresh, he
might have endangered the safety of the ship. They now sailed at a
moderate rate, with various soundings, till three o’clock the next
morning, after which they had no ground with one hundred and twenty
fathom. Before noon they had sight of land, which was conjectured to be
either the Arrou Islands, or Timor Laoet; but they are not accurately
laid down in any of the charts hitherto published.
On the evening of the 9th they saw what had the appearance of land, and
the next morning were convinced that the first land they had seen was
Timor, and the last Timor Laoet. The ship stood off and on during the
night, when a number of fires were seen on the island, and the next
morning smoke was seen in several places, from whence it was conjectured
that the place was well peopled. The land near the shore was covered
with high trees, not unlike pines; farther back were cocoa-trees and
mangroves: there were many salt-water creeks, and several spots of
ground which appeared to have been cleared by art; and the whole country
rose, by gradual slopes, into hills of a very considerable height.
As the land and sea breezes were now very slight, they continued in
sight of the island for two days, when it was observed that the hills
reached, in many places, quite to the sea coast, and where that was not
the case, there were large and noble groves of the cocoa-nut tree, which
ran about a mile up the country, at which distance great numbers of
houses and plantations were seen: the plantations were surrounded with
fences, and extended nearly to the summits of the most lofty hills, yet
neither the natives nor cattle were seen on any of them, which was
thought a very extraordinary circumstance. Fine groves of the fan-palm
shaded the houses from the rays of the sun.
On the 16th they had sight of the little island called ROTTE; and the
same day saw the island SEMAU, at a distance to the southward of Timor.
The island of Rotte is chiefly covered with brushy wood without leaves;
but there are a number of fan-palm trees on it, growing near the sandy
beaches; and the whole consists of alternate hills and vallies. The
island of Semau is not so hilly as Timor, but resembles it greatly in
other respects.
At ten o’clock this night a dull reddish light was seen in the air, many
parts of which emitted rays of a brighter colour, which soon vanished,
and were succeeded by others of the same kind. This phenomenon, which
reached about ten degrees above the horizon, bore a considerable
resemblance to the Aurora Borealis, only that the rays of light which it
emitted had no tremulous motion. It was surveyed for two hours, during
which time its brightness continued undiminished.
As the ship was now clear of all the islands which had been laid down in
such maps as were on board, they made sail during the night, and were
surprized the next morning at the sight of an island to the west
south-west, which they flattered themselves was a new discovery. Before
noon they had sight of houses, groves of cocoa-nut trees, and large
flocks of sheep. This was a welcome sight to people whose health was
declining for want of refreshments; and it was instantly resolved to
attempt the purchase of what they stood so much in need of. The second
Lieutenant was immediately dispatched in the pinnace, in search of a
landing-place; and he took with him such things as it was thought might
be acceptable to the natives.
During Mr. Gore’s absence, the people on board saw two men on horseback
upon the hills, who frequently stopped to take a view of the vessel. The
Lieutenant soon returned, with an account that he had entered a little
cove, near which stood a few houses: that several men advanced, and
invited him to land; and that they conversed together as well as they
could by signs. He reported that these people were very like the Malays,
both in person and dress; that they had no other arms but a knife, which
each of them wore stuck in his girdle.
As the Lieutenant could not find any place in which the ship might come
to an anchor, he was dispatched again with money and goods, to buy such
necessaries as were immediately wanted for those who were sick. Dr.
Solander attended the Lieutenant, and, during their absence, the ship
stood on and off the shore. Soon after the boat had put off, two other
horsemen were seen from the ship, one of whom had a laced hat on, and
was dressed in a coat and waistcoat, of the fashion of Europe. These men
rode about on shore, taking little notice of the boat, but regarding the
ship with the utmost attention. As soon as the boat reached the shore,
some other persons on horseback, and many on foot, hastened to the spot,
and it was observed that some cocoa-nuts were put into the boat, from
whence it was concluded, that a traffick had commenced with the natives.
A signal being made from the boat, that the ship might anchor in a bay
at some distance, she immediately bore away for it.
When the Lieutenant came on board, he reported that he could not
purchase any cocoa-nuts, as the owner of them was absent, and that what
he had brought were given him; in return for which he had presented the
natives with some linen. The method by which he learnt that there was a
harbour in the neighbourhood, was by the natives drawing a kind of rude
map on the sand, in which the harbour, and a town near it were
represented; it was likewise hinted to him that fruit, fowls, hogs, and
sheep, might be there obtained in great abundance. He saw several of the
principal inhabitants of the island, who wore chains of gold about their
necks, and were dressed in fine linen. The word _Portuguese_ being
frequently repeated by the Indians, it was conjectured, that some
natives of Portugal were on the island, and one of the boat’s crew being
of that kingdom, he spoke to the islanders in his own language, but he
soon found that they had only learnt a few words, of which they did not
know the meaning. While the natives were endeavouring to represent the
situation of the town near the harbour, one of them, in order to be more
particular in directions, informed the English that they would see
something, which he endeavoured to describe by placing his fingers
across each other; and the Portuguese sailor took it for granted, that
he could mean nothing but a cross. When the boat’s crew were on the
point of returning to the ship, the gentleman who had been seen on
horseback in the dress of Europe came down to the beach; but the
Lieutenant did not think it proper to hold a conference with him,
because he had left his commission on board the ship.
In the evening, when the ship had entered the bay to which they had been
recommended, an Indian town was seen at a small distance; upon which a
jack was hoisted on the fore-top-mast head: presently afterwards three
guns were fired, and Dutch colours were hoisted in the town: the ship,
however, held on her way, and came to an anchor at seven in the evening.
The colours being seen hoisted on the beach the next morning, the
Captain concluded, that the Dutch had a settlement on the island: he
therefore dispatched the second Lieutenant, to acquaint the Governor, or
other principal resident, who they were, and that the ship had put in
for necessary refreshments. The Lieutenant having landed, he was
received by a kind of guard of something more than twenty Indians, armed
with muskets, who having taken down the colours from the beach,
proceeded without the least military order; and thus escorted him to the
town where the colours had been hoisted the preceding evening.
The Lieutenant was now conducted to the Raja, or King of the island, to
whom, by means of a Portuguese interpreter, he made known his business.
The Raja said, he was ready to supply the ship with the necessary
refreshments; but that he could not trade with any other people but the
Dutch, with whom he was in alliance, without having first obtained their
consent; but that he would make application to the Dutch Agent, who was
the only white man among them. To this Agent, whose name was Lange, and
who proved to be the person that was seen from the ship in the European
dress, a letter was dispatched; and in a few hours he came to the town,
behaved politely to the Lieutenant, and told him, he might buy what he
thought proper of the inhabitants of the island.
This offer being freely made, and readily accepted, the Raja and Mr.
Lange intimated their wishes to go on board the ship, and that two of
the boat’s crew might be left as hostages for their safe return. The
Lieutenant gratified both these requests, and took them on board just
before dinner was served. It was thought that they would have sat down
without ceremony; but, after some hesitation, the Raja intimated his
doubts, whether, being a black, they would permit him to sit down with
them. The politeness of the officers soon removed his scruples, and the
greatest good humour and festivity prevailed among them. As Dr.
Solander, and another gentleman on board, were tolerable proficients in
Dutch, they acted as interpreters between Mr. Lange and the officers,
while some of the sailors, who understood Portuguese, conversed with
such of the Raja’s attendants as spoke that language. The chief part of
the dinner was mutton, which the Raja having tasted, he begged an
English sheep, and the only one which they had left was given him: he
then asked for a dog, and Mr. Banks gave him his grey-hound; and a
spying-glass was presented to him, on Mr. Lange’s intimating that it
would be acceptable.
The visitors now told Captain Cook, that there was great plenty of
fowls, hogs, sheep and buffaloes on the island, numbers of which should
be conveyed to the sea shore on the following day, that he might
purchase what was necessary for the recovery of the sick, and for sea
stores. This welcome news gave great spirits to the company, and the
bottle went so briskly round, that Mr. Lange and his companions became
almost intoxicated: they had, however, the resolution to express a
desire to depart, before they were quite drunk. When they came upon
deck, the marines were under arms to receive them; and the Raja
intimating, that he should be glad to see them exercise, the Captain
gave orders that he should be indulged, and three rounds were fired: he
was equally pleased and surprized at their manœuvres, and particularly
charmed when they cocked their firelocks, exclaiming violently, “that
all the locks made but one click.” This being ended, Messrs. Solander
and Banks went ashore with the visitors, who were saluted at their
departure with nine guns, which they returned with three cheers.
When they came to the town, the English gentlemen tasted their palm
wine, which was sweet, and not unpleasant: it is made of the fresh juice
of the tree, without being fermented. The houses of the natives
consisted of nothing more than a floor of boards, over which was a roof
of thatch, supported by pillars about four feet in height.
On the following day the Captain, attended by several gentlemen, went on
shore to return the Raja’s visit; but their principal intention was, to
buy the refreshments which had been mentioned the preceding day. When
they landed, they were chagrined to find, that the cattle had not been
driven down to the beach. They went on to the town, where they observed,
that the house of assembly, and some few other houses which had been
built by the Dutch East India Company, were distinguished from the
houses of the natives by having a piece of wood, almost in the shape of
cows horns, fixed at each end of the roof; and these they concluded were
what the Portuguese sailor had imagined to be crosses, from the Indian
having crossed his fingers when he was describing the town.
The Raja was at the house of assembly, surrounded by many of his
principal subjects; and Mr. Lange also attended. Captain Cook having
informed them, that he had loaded his boat with goods, which he wished
to exchange for necessary refreshments, permission was given him to land
his effects. The Captain now endeavoured to make an agreement for the
hogs, sheep, and buffaloes, which were to be paid for in cash; but this
business was no sooner hinted at than Mr. Lange took his leave, having
first told the Captain, that he must make his agreement with the
natives; and adding, that he had received a letter from the Governor of
Concordia, in Timor, the contents of which should be disclosed at his
return.
As they had now no fresh provisions on board, the gentlemen were
unwilling to return to the ship before they had dined; they therefore
requested the Raja’s permission to buy a small hog and some rice, and
hoped he would order his people to dress the dinner. To this the Raja
very obligingly replied, that if the gentlemen had stomachs to eat of
Indian cookery, he would have the honour of considering them as his
guests. A dinner being thus procured, the Captain sent off the boat to
bring liquors from the ship.
Late in the afternoon the company sat down on mats, which had been
spread for them on the floor, having been first conducted to a servant,
who had a vessel made of the leaves of the fan-palm, containing water to
wash their hands, in which the Indian assisted them. Having waited some
time for the Raja, they enquired the reason of his absence, and were
informed, that the person who gave the entertainment never partook of
it; but that the Raja was ready to come and taste of what was provided,
if the gentlemen entertained any idea that the meat was unwholesome:
having assured the natives, that they did not harbour any such
suspicion, they began their dinner, which consisted of pork and rice,
very excellent of their kinds, served up in thirty-six dishes, and three
earthen bowls filled with a kind of broth, in which the pork had been
boiled: the spoons were formed of leaves, but were so small, that the
hunger of the guests would scarcely allow them patience to use them.
When dinner was ended, the Captain invited the Raja to drink wine with
him; but this he declined, saying, that the man who entertained company
should never get drunk with his guests, and that the only certain way to
avoid drunkenness, was to refrain from tasting the liquor. The gentlemen
left the remains of their dinner to their servants and the boat’s crew,
who not being able to eat it all, the Raja’s female servants, who came
to take away the utensils, insisted that they should take with them all
that remained.
When the bottle had circulated some time, Captain Cook began to enquire
after the cattle that were promised to be driven down to the beach; when
Mr. Lange informed him, that in the letter which he had received from
the Governor of Concordia, instructions were given, that if the ship
should touch at the island, and be in want of provisions, she should be
supplied; but that he was not to permit her to remain longer than was
absolutely necessary: that no presents were to be made to the natives of
low rank, nor even left with their superiors to be divided among them
after the ship had sailed: but, he added, that any trifling civilities
received from the Indians, might be acknowledged by a present of beads,
or other articles of very small value. It is a very probable conjecture,
that the whole of this story was of Mr. Lange’s own manufacture, and
solely calculated to draw all the presents of any value into his own
pocket.
Soon after this the Captain was informed, that some sheep had been
driven down to the beach; but had been conveyed away before the men
could get money from the ship to pay for them; and that not a single hog
or buffaloe had been driven down: but that a small number of fowls, and
a quantity of the palm-syrup had been bought. Heartily vexed to be thus
disappointed of the chief articles which were wanted, the Captain
remonstrated with Mr. Lange, who told him, that if he and his officers
had gone to the spot, they might have purchased any thing they pleased;
but that the Indians imagined, the seamen would impose on them with
counterfeit money.
This story was no more credited than the former; but not to lose more
time in a case of such urgency, the Captain instantly repaired to the
beach; but there were no cattle to be bought. During his absence Lange
informed Mr. Banks, that the Indians were offended, that the seamen had
not offered gold for what they had to sell, and that no other metal
would purchase their commodities: but Mr. Banks, disdaining to hold
farther conversation with a man who had been guilty of such repeated
subterfuges, left him abruptly. Some hours before this, the Raja had
assigned a much more probable reason for the cattle not being brought to
the beach, saying, that the buffaloes were too far up the country to be
driven thither in the time. In the evening the gentlemen returned to the
ship, not a little displeased at their disappointment.
On the 20th the Captain and doctor Solander went again on shore, and
while the latter proceeded to the town in search of Lange, the Captain
staid on the beach, with a view to buy cattle. At this place was an old
man, who had been distinguished by the name of the prime minister,
because he appeared to be invested with considerable authority; and the
Captain now presented him with a spying-glass, in order to make a friend
of him. At present there was nothing brought for sale but a small
buffaloe, for which five guineas were demanded. Tho’ the Captain knew
that this was double its value, yet he bid three guineas, as he was
willing to begin dealing at any rate: the person who had it to sell
said, he could not take the money till the Raja had been informed what
was offered; on which a man was sent to him, who soon came back with a
message, that five guineas would be the lowest price: this the Captain
refused to give; on which a second messenger was dispatched, who staying
a long time, Captain Cook was anxiously expecting his return, when he
saw Dr. Solander coming towards the beach, escorted by more than a
hundred persons, some of whom had lances in their hands, and the rest
were armed with muskets. When the Doctor arrived at the marketing-place,
he informed the Captain, that Lange had interpreted to him a message
from the Raja, the substance of which was, that the natives were averse
to all traffick with the English, because they would not give above half
the real worth of the things which were offered for sale; and that all
trading whatever should be prohibited after that day.
A native of Timor, whose parents were Portuguese, came down with this
party, and delivered to the Captain what was pretended to be the order
of the Raja, and which was in substance the same as what Lange had told
Dr. Solander; but it was afterwards discovered, that this man was a
confederate of Lange’s, in the scheme of extortion. The English
gentlemen had at the same time no doubt, but that the supposed order of
the Raja was a contrivance of these men; and while they were debating
how they should act in this critical conjuncture, anxious to bring the
affair to a speedy issue, the Portuguese began to drive away such of the
natives as had brought palm-syrup and fowls to sell, and others who were
now bringing sheep and buffaloes to the market.
Just at this juncture Captain Cook happening to look at the old man who
had been distinguished by the name of prime minister, imagined that he
saw in his features a disapprobation of the present proceedings; and,
willing to improve the advantage, he grasped the Indian’s hand, and gave
him an old broad sword. This well-timed present produced all the good
effects that could be wished: the prime minister was enraptured at so
honourable a mark of distinction, and, brandishing his sword over the
head of the impertinent Portuguese, he made both him, and a man who
commanded the party, sit down behind him on the ground. The whole
business was now accomplished: the natives, eager to supply whatever was
wanted, brought their cattle in for sale, and the market was soon
stocked. For the first two buffaloes Captain Cook gave ten guineas; but
he afterwards purchased them by way of exchange, giving a musket for
each; and at this rate he might have bought any number he thought
proper. There seems to be no doubt but that Lange had a profit out of
the first two that were sold, and that his reason for having said that
the natives would take nothing but gold for their cattle, was, that he
might the more easily share in the produce. Captain Cook purchased of
the natives of this island some hundred gallons of palm-syrup, a small
quantity of garlick, a large number of eggs, some limes and cocoa-nuts,
thirty dozen of fowls, three hogs, six sheep, and nine buffaloes.
Having at length obtained these necessary refreshments, Captain Cook
prepared for sailing from this place; but before we attend him on his
voyage, it may be proper to give a description of the island, with an
account of its produce, and the customs and manners of its inhabitants.
The island of SAVU is situated in 10 degrees 35 minutes south latitude,
and 237 degrees 30 minutes west longitude, and has hitherto been very
little known, or very imperfectly described. Its length is between
twenty and thirty miles; but its breadth could not be ascertained by
Captain Cook, who saw only the north side of it. The harbour in which
the ship lay was called Seba, from a district of the country so
denominated; and there are two other bays on different parts of the
island. At the time the Endeavour lay there it was near the end of the
dry season, when it had not rained for almost seven months, nor was
there a running stream of fresh water to be seen, and the natives were
supplied only by small springs, situated at a distance up the country:
yet even in this dry season the appearance of the island was enchanting
beyond description. Near the coast the land is level, and well clothed
with the palm, called _Arecas_, and cocoa-nut trees: farther off the
ground rises in the most gradual ascent, and is covered with fan
palm-trees even to the tops of the hills, so as to present a regular
grove to the eye. The rains in this country cease in March or April, and
fall again in October or November: and these rains produce abundance of
indico, millet, and maize, which grow beneath the noblest trees in the
universe.
Besides these articles, the island produces tobacco, cotton, betle,
tamarinds, limes, oranges, mangoes, Guinea corn, rice, callevances, and
water melons. A trifling quantity of cinnamon was seen, and some
European herbs, such as garlic, fennel, cellery and marjoram: besides
which, there are fruits of various kinds, and particularly the _blimbi_,
which has a sharp taste, and is said to be a very fine pickle, but it is
not eaten raw; its length is from three to four inches, it is nearly as
thick as a man’s thumb, of an oval form, covered with a very thin skin
of a light green, and contains a number of seeds ranged in the shape of
a star.
Several buffaloes were seen on this island, which were almost as large
as an ox; and from a pair of enormous horns of this animal which Mr.
Banks saw, it was conjectured, that some of them were much larger; yet
they did not weigh more than half as much as an ox of the same apparent
size, having lost the greater part of their flesh through the late dry
weather; the meat however was juicy, and of a delicate flavour. The
horns of these animals bend backwards, they have no dewlaps, nor scarce
any hair on their skins, and their ears are remarkably large. The other
tame animals on the island are dogs, cats, pigeons, fowls, hogs, goats,
sheep, asses and horses.
Few of the horses are above twelve hands high, yet they are full of
mettle, and pace naturally in an expeditious manner: the natives ride
them with a halter only. The hogs of this country, are fed on the hulks
of rice, and palm-syrup mixed with water, and are remarkably fine and
fat. The sheep are not unlike a goat, and are therefore called cabritos;
their ears, which are long, hang down under their horns; their noses are
arched, and their bodies are covered with hair. The fowls are of the
game kind, and though they are rather large, the hen lays a very small
egg. The sea-coast furnishes the inhabitants with turtle, but not in any
great abundance.
The natives of the island of Savu are rather below the middle stature;
their hair is black and strait, and persons of all ranks, as well those
that are exposed to the weather, as those that are not, have one general
complexion, which is the dark brown. The men are well formed and
sprightly, and their features differ much from each other: the women, on
the contrary, have all one set of features, and are very short and broad
built.
The men have silver pincers hanging by strings round their necks, with
which they pluck out the hair of their beards; and both men and women
root out the hair that grows under the arms: the hair of the women’s
heads is tied in a club behind, while that of the men is fastened by a
comb to the top of the head: the men wear a kind of turban on the head,
formed of muslin, cotton, or even silk handkerchiefs; but the heads of
the women have no covering.
The dress of the men consists of two pieces of cotton cloth, one of
which is bound round the middle, and the lower edge of it being drawn
pretty tight between the legs, the upper edge is left loose, so as to
form a kind of pocket, in which they carry their knives and other
things: the other piece being passed under the former, on the back of
the wearer, the ends of it are carried over the shoulders, and tucked
into the pocket before. The women draw the upper edge of the piece round
the waist tight, while the lower edge, dropping to the knees, makes a
kind of petticoat: the other piece of cloth is fastened across the
breast, and under the arms. This cloth, which is manufactured by the
natives, is died blue while in the yarn; and, as it is of various
shades, its look when it comes to be worn is very beautiful.
The ornaments of the natives of Savu are very numerous, and consist of
rings, beads worn round the neck and on the wrists, and chains of
plaited gold wire, likewise worn round the neck: these things were worn
by both sexes; but the women had likewise girdles of beads round their
waists, which helped to keep up the petticoat. Many of the boys wore
brass wire passed several times round the arms, above the elbow: and
some of the men, who were said to be the sons of the Rajas, wore rings
of ivory, above an inch thick, and two inches broad, on the same part of
the arm. One man possessed a silver-headed cane, supposed to have been a
present from the Dutch East India Company, as their mark was engraven on
the silver. The Raja, and the principal officer of his houshold, were
commonly habited in night gowns of ordinary chintz; but one time, when
Captain Cook waited on the Raja, he was dressed in a black stuff robe.
Most of the men had their names marked on their arms, and the women a
black ornament just under the bend of the elbow, impressed so that it
could not be rubbed out. On enquiry it was found, that this practice had
been common among the Indians long before they were visited by any
Europeans; and it was said, that the necks and breasts of the
inhabitants of the adjacent islands were marked with circles.
It could not be certainly known how these black marks were impressed;
but the following extract from M. Bossu’s account of some Indians who
dwell on the banks of the Akanza, a river in North America, will afford
a very probable conjecture how the operation is performed.--“The Akanzas
(says this writer) have adopted me, and, as a mark of my privilege, have
imprinted the figure of a roe-buck upon my thigh, which was done in this
manner: an Indian having burnt some straw, diluted the ashes with water,
and, with this mixture, drew the figure upon my skin; he then retraced
it by pricking the lines with needles, so as at every juncture just to
draw the blood, and the blood mixing with the ashes of the straw, forms
a figure which can never be effaced.”
The houses on the island of Savu are of different lengths, from twenty
feet to four hundred, according to the rank of the inhabitant, and are
fixed on posts about four or five feet from the ground. The houses are
generally divided into three rooms of equal size, the center room being
set apart for the use of the women; and sometimes smaller rooms are
enclosed from the sides of the building, the whole of which is thatched
with the leaves of the palm-tree.
The natives eat of all the tame animals which the island produces, but
they prefer the hog to all the rest; next to hogs flesh they admire that
of the horse, to which succeeds the Buffalo, and then the poultry; and
they like the flesh of cats and dogs much better than that of goats and
sheep. Fish is not eaten but by the poorer people, nor even by them, but
when some business demands their attendance near the sea-coast; and then
each man has a small casting net, which he wears tied round his body
when he has not occasion to use it.
The fan-palm is the most remarkable, and most useful tree that grows on
the island, its uses being equally great and various: soon after the
buds put forth the natives cut them, and tying under them little baskets
formed of the leaves of the tree, a liquor drops into them, which has
the taste of a light wine, and is the common liquor of all the
inhabitants. The men climb the trees twice a day to bring down this
liquor; but as a great deal more is thus obtained than can be consumed
by drinking, a part of the remainder is made into coarse sugar, very
excellent of its kind; and the rest is boiled in earthen pots, till it
is reduced to a syrup, resembling treacle, but of a much finer flavour;
and with this syrup the natives fatten their hogs and dogs. The leaves
of the tree are applied to the various uses of making tobacco pipes,
umbrellas, cups, baskets, and the thatching of houses. The fruit of this
tree is nearly of the size of a full grown turnip; but the natives are
not fond of it, nor do they suffer much of it to come to perfection, as
they wound the blossoms for the sake of the liquor that distils from
them; the kernels of the fruit must be eaten before it is ripe,
otherwise they are so hard, that the teeth will not penetrate them.
As wood for firing is very scarce on the island, the natives, by the
following method, make a very little of it answer the ends of cookery
and distillation. A hollow is dug under ground, in a direct line, about
two yards long, with a hole at each end, one of which is large and the
other small; the fire is put in at the largest hole, while the smaller
one serves for a draught. Circular holes are made through the earth,
which covers this cavity; and on these holes are set earthen pots, which
being large in the middle, and smaller towards the bottom, the fire acts
upon a considerable part of their surface. These pots contain, most
commonly, about eight or nine gallons each, and they are kept
continually boiling, with a very trifling quantity of fuel, such as a
palm-leaf, or a dry stalk; in this manner all their victuals are boiled,
as well as their syrup and sugar.
Both the men and women chew betle and areca, mixed with a sort of lime,
composed of shells and coral stones; and as they frequently add tobacco
to the other ingredients, and acquire this disgustful practice almost in
their infancy, there is not a sweet breath, or a sound set of teeth in
the whole island. They sometimes smoke tobacco, and the women,
particularly, swallow the smoke. Their pipes are made of the palm-leaf,
about the size of a goose quill, and half a foot long, in one end of
which they put the tobacco designed for smoking.
The island consists of five divisions, each of which has a Raja, or
chief Governor, of its own. These divisions are called TIMO, MASSARA,
REGEEUA, LAAI, and SEBA. It was on this last division that our English
adventurers went on shore: the Raja of which was between thirty and
forty years of age, and remarkable for his corpulency. He governs his
people with the most absolute authority, but takes on him very little of
the parade, or pomp of royalty. The prime minister, who has been
heretofore mentioned, appeared to be invested with great power, and
almost wholly to direct the actions of the Raja; yet, such were the
abilities and integrity of this man, that the people universally adored
him. When any dispute happens among the natives, it is instantly settled
by the Raja and his counsellors, in the most equitable and satisfactory
manner.
The history of this island depends chiefly on the authority of Mr.
Lange, the Dutch factor, who informed Captain Cook, that it was able to
raise seven thousand three hundred fighting men, on the shortest notice.
These are armed with lances, spears, muskets, targets, and pole-axes,
which last are not unlike a wood-bill, only that they are much heavier,
and have strait edges. The natives are so expert in the use of their
lances, that they will throw them with such force and exactness, as to
pierce a man through the heart at the distance of sixty or seventy
yards. Notwithstanding this skill and disposition for war, it is said,
that the Rajas have lived in the most perfect harmony for several ages.
While Captain Cook was on the island he saw a great gun before the
town-house, and some swivels and pateraroes; but the great gun, which
was almost consumed by rust, lay with the touch-hole to the ground, and
the swivels and pateraroes were not in their carriages. In the
town-house were a number of spears and targets, of as many different
sizes as there were weapons; and with these the natives were armed when
they came down with Dr. Solander, with a view to influence the market.
The insides of the muskets were almost destroyed by rust, though their
outsides were kept clean and bright: the men had very little, if any,
powder or ball in their cartridge-boxes; but a piece of paper was put
into each hole, as if they had been properly furnished. It has been
already mentioned, that they marched in the most irregular manner; and
each man brought with him a little tobacco, a fowl, or some other
trifle, for sale.
The inhabitants of Savu are divided into five ranks; the Rajas, the
land-owners, manufacturers, labourers, and slaves. The land-owners are
respected in proportion to the extent of their lands, and the number of
their slaves, which last are bought and sold with the estates to which
they belong; but when a slave is bought separately, a fat hog is the
price of the purchase. Though a man may sell his slave in this manner,
or convey him with his lands, yet his power over him extends no farther,
for he must not even strike him without the Raja’s permission. The
estates of these land-owners are of very different extent; for some of
them possess not above five slaves, and some five hundred. When a man of
rank goes abroad, one of his slaves follows him, with a silver hilted
sword or hanger, ornamented with horse hair tassels; while another is
furnished with a little bag, containing tobacco, betle, areca, and lime;
and even the Rajas themselves take no farther state upon them.
The natives of Savu entertain a veneration for antiquity, superior,
perhaps, to that of any other people in the world. Their principal boast
is a long line of venerable ancestors: the houses that have been well
tenanted for successive generations are held in the highest esteem; and
even the stones, which are worn smooth by having been sat upon for ages,
become valuable from that very circumstance: the man whose progenitors
have bequeathed him any of these stones, or whose opulence has enabled
him to purchase them, causes them to be ranged round his habitation, for
his servants and slaves to sit upon.
In the chief town of each district the Raja causes a huge stone to be
set up, as a monument of his reign. Thirteen such stones were seen in
the province of Seba, and the remains of many others, that have suffered
greatly by the wasting hand of time. These stones are all placed on the
top of a hill, and some of them are so enormously large, that it is
impossible to conceive by what contrivance they could have been placed
in such a situation, nor could any information in this respect be
obtained from the natives. From these monuments it is evident, that the
island has been regularly governed for a series of ages past.
On the death of a Raja, proclamation is made that all his subjects shall
hold a solemn festival; on which they proceed to the hill where these
stones are erected, and feast for several weeks or months, killing every
animal that can be found, to furnish out the treat, which is daily
served upon the monumental stones. When the whole stock is exhausted,
they are compelled to a severe fast; and when it happens that the feast
ends in the dry season, when they cannot get vegetables to eat, they
have no other subsistance than the palm syrup and water, till the few
animals that escape the general massacre have bred a sufficient number
for a fresh supply; except indeed that the adjacent districts may afford
some relief. The natives of Savu have an instrument with which they
clear the cotton of its seeds, which is only about seven inches in
height, and fourteen in length; but is constructed on common mechanical
principles. They have likewise a machine, with which they spin by hand,
in the same manner as the women of England did, before the use of
spinning-wheels was known. The yarn they make is dyed as
before-mentioned, and they were once observed to be dying some girdles
for the women, of a deep red colour.
The natives in general are robust and healthy, and had the appearance of
being long-lived. The small-pox has found its way to this island, and is
as much dreaded as the pestilence: when this disorder attacks any
person, he is carried to some spot at a great distance from any house,
where his food is conveyed to him by means of a long stick, for no one
will venture very near the invalid, who is thus left to take his chance
of life or death.
The island of Savu having been visited by the Portuguese almost at their
first sailing into this part of the world, they established a settlement
upon it; but in a little time they were succeeded by the Dutch, who,
though they did not formally possess themselves of the island, sent a
number of trading vessels to establish a commerce with the natives. It
is thought that the Dutch purchases are chiefly confined to provisions
for the supply of the Spice Islands, the inhabitants of which,
cultivating almost every spot of ground for the spice trade, breed but a
small number of cattle. A few years ago the Dutch East India Company
made an agreement with the several Rajas of the island, by which it was
covenanted, that a quantity of rice, maize, and calevances should be
annually furnished to the Dutch, who, in return, supply the Rajas with
arrack, cutlery wares, linen, silk, and some other things. Small
vessels, each of which is manned by ten Indians, are sent from Timor, to
bring away the maize and calevances, and a ship which brings the
articles which are furnished by the Dutch, receives the rice on board
once a year: and there being three bays on the coast, this vessel
anchors in each of them in its turn. The Rajas accept the Dutch articles
of commerce as a present; and they and their chief attendants drink
incessantly of the arrack till it is all gone. In the agreement
abovementioned, the Rajas stipulated, that a Dutch resident should be
constantly on the island, to observe that their part of the contract was
fulfilled.
The Dutch having thus concluded the treaty, sent Mr. Lange to act as
their resident, and a kind of assistant to him, whose father was a
Portuguese, and his mother a native of Timor, with one Frederick Craig,
whose father was a Dutchman, and his mother an Indian. Once every two
months Lange is attended by fifty slaves on horse-back, and in this
state visits each of the Rajas, and, if the crops are ripe, orders
vessels to convey them immediately to Timor, so that they are not even
housed on the island. It is a part of Lange’s business to persuade the
land-owners to plant, if he sees that there has been any neglect on
their part. He constantly takes with him a quantity of arrack, by the
help of which he does not fail of making advantageous bargains with the
Rajas.
Lange had been on this island ten years, during all which time he had
not seen a white person, except those who came annually in the Dutch
ship to carry off the rice. He is married to an Indian woman, a native
of the island of Timor, and he lives in the same manner as the
inhabitants of Savu, whose language he speaks better than any other;
like them too he sits on the ground and chews betle, and has so
perfectly adopted their manners, that he is an absolute Indian, except
in dress and complexion.
Mr. Craig is employed in teaching the children to write and read, and
instructing them in the principles of Christianity. The new testament, a
catechism, and some other small books of divinity, have been printed in
the language of Savu, and the adjacent islands, at the expence of the
Dutch. Mr. Craig said, there were six hundred Christians in the township
of Seba only; yet there is neither a church nor a clergyman throughout
the island.
The religion of such of the natives of Savu as have not embraced
Christianity, is a singular sort of Paganism, as every man makes choice
of his own God, and worships him according to his own fancy; so that the
variety of Deities, and the methods of adoring them, are scarcely fewer
than the number of inhabitants. The morality of these people, however,
is of the purest kind. A robbery is scarce ever committed, and a murder
is never perpetrated. When any disputes arise between the natives, they
instantly submit the point in debate to the decision of the Raja, and
rest perfectly satisfied with his determination. No man is permitted to
marry more than one wife; yet a violation of the marriage bed, or even
the crime of simple fornication, is almost wholly unknown among them.
Happy people! the purity of whose morals renders them fit objects of the
envy and emulation of the Christian world.
Of the islands in the neighbourhood of Savu, the principal is Timor,
which is annually visited by the Dutch residents on the other islands,
in order to make up their accounts. Some of the towns on the north side
of Timor are in the hands of the Portuguese; but the Dutch possess the
far greater proportion of the island, on which they have built a fort,
and erected several store-houses.
There are three small islands, called the Solars, which produce a great
abundance of the various necessaries of life, that are carried in small
vessels to the Dutch settlement on the island of Timor: these islands
are low and flat, and one of them has a commodious harbour.
Westward from the Solars lies the little island of Ende, which is yet in
the possession of the Portuguese, who have built a considerable town,
called Larntuca, on the north east point of it; and close to the town is
an harbour where ships may ride in safety.
The island of Rotte has a Dutch resident on it, whose business is
similar to that of Mr. Lange on the island of Savu: Rotte produces,
besides such things as are common to the other islands, a considerable
quantity of sugar, which is now made to a great degree of perfection.
There is likewise a small island lying to the westward of Savu, the
chief produce of which is areca-nuts, of which the Dutch receive, in
exchange for European commodities, as large a quantity every year as
will load two vessels.
A French ship was wrecked on the coast of Timor, about two years before
the Endeavour was in these seas. She had been lodged on the rock several
days, when the wind tore her to pieces in an instant, and the Captain,
with the greater number of the seamen, were drowned; but a Lieutenant
and about eighty men having reached the shore, travelled across the
country of Concordia, where their immediate necessities were relieved,
after which they returned to the wreck, in company with some Dutch and
Indians, who assisted them in recovering all their chests of bullion,
some of their guns, and other effects: which being done, they returned
to Concordia, where they remained several weeks; but, in this interval,
death made such havock among them, that not above half their number
remained to be sent to their native country, which was done as soon as a
vessel could be fitted out for that purpose.
To close the account of the island of Savu, it now only remains to give
the following specimen of the language of its inhabitants.
Specimen of the language of the inhabitants of the island of SAVU.
Momonne, _A man_.
Monama, _An old man_.
Monecopai, _A boy_.
Anawuneekee, _A child_.
Madda, _The eyes_.
Otaile, _The temples_.
Sivanga, _The nose_.
Tangarei, _The forehead_.
Cavarànga, _The cheeks_.
Vaio, _The tongue_.
Lacoco, _The neck_.
Dùloo, _The belly_.
Pagàvee, _The chin_.
Càmaccoò, _The arms_.
Wùlalea, _The hand_.
Roòtoo, _The knees_.
Baibo, _The legs_.
Duneeala, _The feet_.
Row, _Hair_.
Gnaca, _A dog_.
Vavee, _A hog_.
Doomba, _A sheep_.
Maio, _A cat_.
Doleela, _A bird_.
Dulloo, _An egg_.
Nudoo, _A fish_.
Unjoo, _A turtle_.
Vooe, _Fruit_.
Nai, _Tobacco_.
Yirroo, _Oranges_.
Arre, _Rice_.
Lodo, _The sun_.
Wurroo, _The moon_.
Booro, _Bread_.
Cova, _A coat_.
Capa, _A ship_.
Sooree, _Red_.
Bulla, _Black_.
Sao-lodo, _The morning_.
Munda-lodo, _The evening_.
O, _Yes_.
Gnaa, _To eat_.
Neenawei, _To drink_.
Ta eaco, _To walk_.
Ta rai, _To run_.
Ta mudje, _To talk_.
Ta bunge, _To sneeze_.
Isse, or usse, _One_.
Rooe, _Two_.
Tulloo, _Three_.
Uppa, _Four_.
Lumee, _Five_.
Unna, _Six_.
Petoo, _Seven_.
Aroo, _Eight_.
Saio, _Nine_.
Singooroo, _Ten_.
Singooroo isse, _Eleven_.
The Endeavour sailed from the island of Savu on the 21st of September
1770, and bent her course westward. In the afternoon of this day a
little flat island was discovered in 10 degrees 47 minutes south
latitude, and 238 degrees 28 minutes west longitude, which has not been
laid down in any of the charts hitherto published.
When the ship got clear of the several islands before-mentioned, there
was a continual swell of the sea from the south, which Captain Cook
imputed to the position of the coast of New South Wales, imagining it to
have determined the sea in that direction.
On the 28th they steered north-west the whole day, in order to get sight
of the land of Java; and on the 30th the Captain received from most of
the officers and seamen their respective journals of the voyage,
regarding which he advised them to observe the most profound secrecy:
and he likewise possessed himself of the log-book. In the night
following there was a storm of thunder and lightning, when the land of
Java was seen to the eastward by the brightness of the lightning. In the
morning they had sight of the island of Cracatoa, which is singular for
the height of its peak.
Early in the morning of the 2d of October, when the ship was in fifteen
fathom water, she was close in with the coast of Java, along which they
now steered. As their faithful Indian friend Tupia was at this time
extremely ill, the Captain dispatched a boat to the shore, to endeavour
to bring him some refreshing fruits, and likewise to procure grass for
the buffaloes. As soon as the boat landed, the inhabitants assisted the
seamen in cutting grass for the cattle, and in gathering a bunch of
plantains and a few cocoa-nuts, for which they received a shilling, and
which were brought off to the ship. The land of Java had a delightful
appearance, being every where well covered with trees.
This day they had sight of two Dutch vessels, and an officer being
dispatched to one of them, to learn any interesting intelligence, he
brought word back, that the Swallow had reached the English channel in
safety, that disputes were carried to great lengths at home, in regard
to the ministers, and in America, on account of taxes; and that the
Russians, Poles and Turks, were embroiled in a war. The officer said,
that the vessels were Dutch East Indiamen, bound from Batavia, one of
them to the coast of Malabar, and the other to the island of Ceylon: he
said likewise, that there was a kind of packet-boat, which he had been
told, was appointed to carry letters from such Dutch ships as came
thither to Batavia; but Captain Cook conjectured, that her business was
to examine such ships as should pass the Streight.
The ship had now been some hours at anchor; but a light breeze springing
up in the evening, they got under sail, and continued to proceed at a
slow rate during the night. On the 3d, in the morning, the Dutch
packet-boat was observed sailing after the Endeavour; but she bore away
again on the shifting of the wind.
This changing of the wind obliging the Endeavour to come to an anchor,
the master of the packet-boat came along-side of her, in one of the
boats belonging to the country, bringing with him rice-birds, monkies,
parrots, parroquets, ducks, fowls, turtle, and other things, with an
intention to sell them; but as the stock which had been laid in at Savu
was not yet consumed, and he had fixed very high prices on his
commodities, very few articles were purchased: the Captain, however,
bought twenty or thirty fowls, and a small turtle.
The master of the packet-boat had brought with him two books, in one of
which he wrote down the Captain’s name, and that of the vessel, to be
sent to the Governor and Council of the Indies; and in the other book he
requested that some of the gentlemen on board would likewise write down
the name of the vessel, with that of the Captain; where she came from,
to what port she was bound, and as many particulars respecting any
person on board, as themselves might think necessary, to satisfy the
curiosity of any of their friends who might afterwards enquire for them.
In this book many Portuguese vessels, and some of other countries had
made entries of the same kind; but a Lieutenant on board the Endeavour
having written the ship’s name, added only the words, “from Europe;” yet
of this the master of the packet took no other notice, than by saying he
was content with whatever they were pleased to write, which was intended
solely for the information of their friends.
They now weighed the anchor, and made repeated attempts to sail; but the
wind not blowing so as to enable the vessel to stem the current, she lay
to till the morning of the 5th, when a Dutch officer came along-side the
ship, and sent a printed paper to the Captain, in exceeding bad English;
the contents of which were to enquire,
1st, The ship’s name, and to what nation she belonged?
2d, Whether she came from Europe, or any other place?
3d, What place she had last departed from?
4th, To what place she was bound?
5th, How many ships belonging to the Dutch Company had been seen at the
last coast the ship had left, and their names?
6th, If one or more of these ships had been in company with the
Endeavour, and was or were sailed for that, or any other place?
7th, If, during the voyage, any thing remarkable had happened, or been
seen?
8th, If any ships had been seen and hailed at sea, or in the streight of
Sunda, and what they were?
9th, If they had brought any other news worthy of attention, from the
place whence the ship took her last departure; or if any thing else had
happened during the voyage, that was worth communicating.
These questions were undersigned, “Batavia, in the castle. By order of
the Governor General, and the Counsellors of India, J. BRANDER BUNGL,
Sec.”
It was observed, that the officer had many other papers of the same
kind, in French, Dutch, and other languages. Captain Cook did not think
proper to answer any of the above questions, except the first and the
fourth. When the Dutchman observed this, he said, that answers to the
other questions were not material; yet he seemed to contradict what he
had just advanced, by saying, that he must dispatch the paper to
Batavia, and that it would reach that place by noon on the following
day. This incident is particularly recorded, because the examining the
ships which sail through the streight, is said to be a piece of Dutch
policy of very modern date.
As soon as the Dutch officer was departed, the anchor was weighed; but
the ship was obliged to come to an anchor again in about four hours, for
want of wind to enable her properly to stem the current. A breeze soon
springing up, the vessel held on her way till the following morning,
when she was again obliged to be brought to an anchor, owing to the
rapidity of the current. This day and the next they weighed the anchor,
and brought to several times. On the 8th they weighed, and stood clear
of a large ledge of rocks, which they had been near running fowl of the
preceding day; but before noon this day they were once more obliged to
anchor near a little island, which was not laid down in any chart that
they had on board. It is one of those that bear the name of the Milles
isles; and Messrs Solander and Banks having landed upon it, collected a
few plants, and shot a bat which was a yard long, being measured from
the extreme points of the wings; they also killed a few plovers, in all
respects like the English golden plover. On this island, the breadth of
which does not exceed one hundred yards, and the length five hundred,
they found a house, and a little spot of cultivated ground, and on it
grew the _Palma Christi_, from which the West Indians make the castor
oil.
In a little time after the gentlemen came back to the snip, some Malays
came along-side, in a boat, bringing with them some pumpkins, dried
fish, and turtle for sale: one of the turtles, which weighed near one
hundred and fifty pounds, they sold for a dollar, and seemed to expect
the same piece of money for their pumpkins; but it being hinted to them
that a dollar was too much, they desired that one might be cut, and a
piece of it given to them: but this not being complied with, they at
length sold six and twenty pumpkins for a Portuguese petacka. When they
departed they intimated their wishes, that this transaction might not be
mentioned at Batavia.
The ship now made but slow way till night, when the land breeze
springing up, they sailed to the east south-east, and on the following
day, by the assistance of the sea breeze, they came to an anchor in the
road of Batavia. At this place they found a number of large Dutch
vessels, the Harcourt East Indiaman from England, which had lost her
passage to China, and two ships belonging to the private trade of our
India Company.
The Endeavour had no sooner anchored, than a ship was observed, with a
broad pendant flying, from which a boat was dispatched to demand the
name of the vessel, with that of the Commander, &c. To these enquiries
Captain Cook gave such answers as he thought proper, and the officer who
commanded the boat departed. This gentleman and the crew that attended
him were so worn down by the unhealthiness of the climate, that they
appeared but as the shadows of men; which the Captain deemed a sad
presage of the havock which death would soon make among his crew; yet at
present there was not one invalid on board, except the Indian Tupia: the
English tars, whose want of foresight and defiance of danger is
notorious, seemed not to entertain the least idea that even sickness
would attack a set of men so hardened as they were by different
climates; but alas! they had very little idea of the fatal contagion
which impregnates the air of Batavia.
The Captain now dispatched an officer to the Governor of the town, to
apologize for the Endeavour’s not saluting; for he had but three guns
proper for the purpose, except swivels, and he was apprehensive that
they would not be heard.
The ship was at this time so leaky, that she made about nine inches
water an hour, on the average; part of her false keel was gone; one of
her pumps was totally useless, and the rest so very much decayed, that
they could not last long. The officers and seamen concurring in opinion,
that the ship could not safely put to sea again in this condition, the
Captain resolved to solicit permission to heave her down; but as he had
learnt that this must be done in writing, he drew up a petition, and had
it translated into Dutch.
On Wednesday the 10th of October 1770, the Captain and the rest of the
gentlemen went on shore, and applied to the only English gentleman then
resident at Batavia: this gentleman, whose name was Leith, received his
countrymen in the politest manner, and entertained them at dinner with
great hospitality. Mr. Leith informed them, that a public hotel was kept
in the town, by order of the Dutch government, at which place merchants
and other strangers were obliged to lodge, and that the landlord of the
hotel was bound to find them warehouses for their goods, on the
condition of his receiving ten shillings on every hundred pounds of
their value; but that as the Endeavour was a King’s ship, her officers,
and the other gentlemen, might reside where they thought proper, only
asking leave of the Governor, whose permission would be instantly
obtained. Mr. Leith added, that they might live cheaper in this way than
at the hotel, if they had any person who spoke the Malay tongue, on whom
they could rely in the purchase of their provisions: but as there was no
such person among the whole ship’s crew, the gentlemen immediately
bespoke beds at the hotel.
In the afternoon Captain Cook attended the Governor General, who
received him politely, and told him to wait on the Council the next
morning, when his petition should be laid before them, and every thing
he solicited would be readily granted.
Late in the evening of this day there happened a most terrible storm of
thunder and lightning, accompanied with very heavy rain. In this storm
the main-mast of a Dutch East Indiaman was split and carried away by the
deck; and the main-top-mast and top-gallant-mast were torn to pieces; it
is supposed, that the lightning was attracted by an iron spindle at the
main-top-gallant-mast-head. The Endeavour, which was at a small distance
from the Dutch ship, escaped without damage, owing, in Captain Cook’s
opinion, to an electrical chain, which conducted the lightning over the
side of the vessel: and he recommends chains of the same kind to be
taken on board all ships, to whatever part of the globe they may be
bound. A centinel on board the Endeavour, who was charging his musket at
the time of the storm, had it shaken out of his hand, and the rammer-rod
was broken in pieces: the electrical chain looked like a stream of fire,
and the ship sustained a very violent shock.
On Tuesday the 11th Captain Cook waited on the gentlemen of the Council,
who informed him, that all his requests should be complied with. In the
interim, the other gentlemen made a contract with the master of the
hotel, to furnish them and their friends with as much tea, coffee, punch
and tobacco, as they might have occasion for, and to keep them a
separate table, for nine shillings a day, English money; but on the
condition that every person who should visit them, should pay at the
rate of four shillings and six pence for his dinner, and the same sum
for his supper and bed, if he chose to sleep at the hotel: they were
likewise to pay for every servant that attended them fifteen pence a
day.
It was soon discovered, that they had been vilely imposed on; for these
charges were above twice as much as would have been demanded at a
private house. They appeared to live elegantly, but at the same time
were but ill supplied. Their dinner consisted of fifteen dishes, all
served up at once; and their supper of thirteen; but of these, nine or
ten were of the most ordinary, because the cheapest, poultry, that could
be purchased; and even some of these dishes were observed to be served
up four times successively: a duck, which was hot at dinner, brought
cold in the evening; the next day it appeared in the form of a fricasee,
and was converted to forced meat at night. Our countrymen, however, only
fared as others had done before them: it was the constant custom of the
conscientious master of the hotel, to treat all his guests in the same
manner, when they first took up their residence at his house: if they
took no notice of it, all was well, for the landlord had the better
customers of them; if they remonstrated against such treatment, the
table was better and better supplied from time to time, till, in the
end, they had no reason to complain.
The gentlemen having found fault with their fare, were afterwards
supplied in a better manner; but Mr. Banks, not approving the conduct of
the master of the hotel, he hired lodgings for himself and his
attendants at the adjoining house, for which he agreed to pay five and
forty shillings a month: but here Mr. Banks was disappointed in the hope
he had formed of living retired; for scarce a Dutchman had occasion to
pass by the house, but he ran in without ceremony, to enquire what was
to be sold; for it is a very unusual thing at Batavia, for strangers who
are in a private capacity not to be furnished with some articles of
traffick. In this house no person was permitted to sleep, as a guest of
Mr. Banks, without his bed being separately paid for. It is the
universal custom here to hire a carriage; and Mr. Banks engaged two, for
which he paid eighteen shillings a day: these carriages are open
chaises, in which two persons sit commodiously, and are driven by a man
sitting on a kind of coach-box.
Their Indian friend Tupia had been till this time on board very
dangerously ill, yet persisted to refuse every medicine that was offered
him: Mr. Banks now sent for him to his house, in the hope that he might
recover his health. While he was in the ship, and even after he was put
into the boat, he was indisposed, and low spirited, in the utmost
degree; but the moment he came into the town, his whole frame appeared
as if re-animated. The houses, the carriages, the people, and many other
objects, were totally new to him and astonishment took possession of his
features at sights so wonderful: but if Tupia was astonished at the
scene, his boy, Tayota, was perfectly enraptured, dancing along the
streets in an extacy of joy, and examining the several objects as they
presented themselves, with the most earnest inquisitiveness and
curiosity.
Of all the circumstances which engaged the attention of Tupia, nothing
struck him so much as the vast variety of dresses worn by the
inhabitants of Batavia: he enquired the reason of what appeared so very
extraordinary in his eyes, and being informed that the people were of a
variety of nations, and that all were dressed according to the mode of
their own country, he requested permission to follow the fashion: this
request being readily complied with, a person was dispatched to the ship
for some South Sea cloth, with which he soon clothed himself in the
dress of the inhabitants of Otaheite. The people of Batavia, who had
seen an Indian, brought thither in M. Bougainville’s ship, named
Otourou, mistook Tupia for that man, and frequently enquired if he was
not the same.
As the necessary repairs of the ship were to be made at Ourust, Captain
Cook obtained an order to the superintendant of that island to receive
her; and he wrote to the Secretary of the Admiralty, an account of the
safe arrival of the Endeavour in the road of Batavia, and dispatched his
letter by a Dutch ship that was bound to Europe.
Captain Cook now applied to several persons to advance him money
sufficient to defray the expence of repairing the ship; but not one
could be found in the whole town who had the requisite sum in his
possession, or, if he had, was willing to advance it: he therefore made
application to the Governor, who issued his orders, that he should be
supplied out of the treasury of the Dutch East India Company.
Early in the morning of the 18th of October 1770, the ship got under
sail, and proceeded to Ourust; and, in a day or two, the crew began to
take out her stores, which were deposited in the wharf on Cooper’s
Island; but this business was rendered unavoidably tedious, by several
Dutch ships being at the same wharf, taking in their ladings of pepper.
After little more than a week spent at Batavia, the ill effects of the
climate began to be severely felt. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks were
indisposed with fevers; Mr. Banks’s two servants were exceedingly ill;
the Indian boy, Tayota, had an inflammation on his lungs; and Tupia was
so bad, that his life was despaired of. Their indisposition was
attributed partly to the heat of the climate, and partly to the swampy
situation of the town, and the stench of the dirty canals with which it
abounds.
By the 26th of the month, very few of the crew were well enough to do
duty; and on this day a tent was erected for their reception. Tupia now
requested to be conveyed to the ship, in the hope of breathing a purer
air than in the town; but his request could not be granted, as she was
unrigged, and preparations were making to lay her down, in order that
she might undergo a thorough repair: on the 28th, however, Mr. Banks
attended Tupia to Cooper’s Island, where a tent was pitched for him, in
such a situation, where he was alternately refreshed by the land and sea
breezes; and the poor creature was extremely thankful that he was so
agreeably lodged. By this time the Surgeon was so ill, that he could not
leave his bed; Mr. Banks’s fever was greatly encreased, and Dr. Solander
grew worse every day.
The ship was at length laid down on the 5th of November, on which day
died Mr. Monkhouse, the Surgeon, whose loss was the more severely felt,
as he was a man of skill in his profession, and fell a sacrifice to the
pestiferous air of the country, at a time when his abilities were most
wanted. Dr. Solander, though extremely ill, had strength sufficient to
see his remains committed to the ground, but Mr. Banks was unable even
to pay this last sad duty to a worthy man.
Death now advanced with hasty strides among our adventrous countrymen,
who were equally unable to resist his power, or shun his embraces.
Several Malay servants were engaged, to wait on those who were ill; but
these people were so remiss in their duty, that it was no uncommon thing
for the sick man to leave his bed in search of his attendant. The Indian
boy, Tayota, paid the debt of Nature on the 9th of this month, and
Tupia, whose tender affection for the youth can be equalled only by that
of a parent for a favourite child, was so shocked at the loss, that it
was evident he could not long survive him.
By this time the ship’s bottom having been carefully surveyed, our
countrymen had ample reason to be grateful to that Providence, by which
they had been preserved during a passage of several hundred miles,
through the most dangerous seas on the face of the globe: for the
sheathing in several places was torn from the vessel, the false keel was
in a great measure gone, the main keel was damaged in many parts,
several of the planks had received great injury, and a part of three of
them was thinner than the sole of a shoe!
Messrs. Solander and Banks were now so worn down by their disorders,
that the Physician, who attended them, recommended the country air, as
the only thing that could possibly restore them to the wishes of their
friends. In consequence of this advice, they hired a country-house of
the master of the hotel, who engaged to supply them with slaves, and to
furnish their table; but as they had sufficiently experienced the
worthlessness of these slaves, they bought two Malay women, who soon
became excellent nurses, from that tenderness of Nature which does so
much honour to the sex. While these gentlemen were taking measures for
the recovery of their health, poor Tupia fell a victim to the ravages of
his disorder, and to his grief for the deceased Tayota. When Tayota was
first seized with the fatal disorder, he seemed sensible of his
approaching end, and frequently said to those that were about him, Tyau
mate see, “My friends, I am dying:” he was very tractable, and took any
medicines that were offered to him; they were both buried in the island
of Edam.
Captain Cook bestows great encomiums on the officers and workmen of the
Marine Yard at Ourust, by whose skill and diligence the bottom of the
ship was perfectly repaired by the 14th of the month; and he warmly
recommends the heaving down with two masts, instead of one, which, he
says, is undoubtedly the more expeditious, as well as the safer method.
By this time not above ten men, out of the whole ship’s crew, were able
to do duty, and these were employed in getting the water and stores
aboard, and in putting up the rigging: the water was purchased at
Batavia, at the rate of one hundred and fifty gallons for six shillings
and eight pence.
Captain Cook was now taken ill, and Mr. Sporing and a sailor, who
attended Messrs. Banks and Solander at their country-house, were
attacked with intermitting fevers; but those two gentlemen grew
something better, though their recovery was very slow. Their house was
situated on the borders of a rivulet, which, of course, assisted the
circulation of the air; and it was likewise open to the sea breeze.
In the night of the 25th there fell such a shower of rain, for the space
of four hours, as even our voyagers had scarce ever remembered. The
water poured through every part of Mr. Banks’s house; and the lower
apartments admitted a stream sufficient to have turned a mill. As this
gentleman was now greatly restored in health, he went to Batavia the
following day, and was surprized to see, that the inhabitants had hung
out their bedding to dry. The westerly monsoon set in about the 26th of
this month: it blows in the day-time from the north, or north-west, and
from the south-west during the night: previous to this, there had been
violent thunder, and hard showers of rain for several nights.
The musquitos and gnats, whose company had been sufficiently
disagreeable in the dry weather, now began to swarm in immense numbers,
rising from the puddles of water like bees from a hive: they were
extremely troublesome during the night, but the pain arising from their
sting, though very severe, seldom lasted more than half an hour; and in
the day-time they seldom made their attacks. The frogs kept a perpetual
croaking in the ditches; a certain sign that the wet season was
commenced, and that daily rain might be expected.
The ship being repaired, the sick people being received on board her,
and the greater part of her water and stores taken in, she sailed from
Ourust on the 8th of December, and anchored in the road of Batavia.
Twelve days were employed in receiving the remainder of her provisions,
water, and other necessaries; though this business would have been done
in much less time, but that some of the crew died, and the majority of
the survivors were so ill, as to be unable to give their assistance.
On the 24th Captain Cook took leave of the Governor, and some other
gentlemen, who had distinguished themselves by the civilities they
shewed him: but at this juncture an incident occurred, that might have
produced consequences by no means desirable. A sailor belonging to one
of the Dutch snips in the road of Batavia, deserted from that vessel,
and entered himself on board the Endeavour. The Captain of the Dutch
ship having made application to the Governor, claiming the delinquent as
a subject of the States General, the Governor issued his order for the
restoration of the man: Captain Cook had but just taken a formal leave
of the Governor when this order was delivered to him; and he said, that
the man should be given up, if it appeared that he was a Dutchman. As
the Captain was at this time on shore, and did not intend going on board
till the following day, he gave the Dutch officer a note to the
Lieutenant, who commanded on board the Endeavour, to deliver the
deserter on the condition above-mentioned. On the following day the
Dutchman waited on Captain Cook, informing him, that the Lieutenant had
absolutely refused to give up the seaman; saying, that he was an
Irishman, and of course a subject of his Britannick Majesty. Captain
Cook applauded the conduct of his officer, and added, that it could not
be expected, that he should deliver up an English subject. The Dutch
officer then said, he was authorized, by the Governor, to demand the
fugitive as a Danish subject, adding, that his name was entered in the
ship’s books, as having been born at Elsineur: to this Captain Cook very
properly replied, that the Governor must have been mistaken, when he
gave this order for delivering the deserter, who had his option whether
he would serve the Dutch or the English; but that in compliment to the
Governor, the man should be given up, as a favour, if he appeared to be
a Dane; but that, in this case, he should by no means be demanded as a
right, and that he would certainly keep him, if he appeared to be a
subject of the crown of Great Britain. The Dutchman now took his leave,
and he had not been long gone, before the Captain received a letter from
the commanding officer on board, containing full proof, that the man was
an English subject. This letter the Captain carried to the Shebander,
desiring him to lay it before the Governor, and to inform him, that the
man should not be delivered up on any terms whatever. This spirited
conduct on the part of Captain Cook had the proper effect; and thus the
matter ended.
This day the Captain, attended by Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen who
had hitherto lived in the town, repaired on board the ship, which got
under sail the next morning. The Endeavour was saluted by the fort, and
by the Elgin East Indiaman, which then lay in the road; but soon after
these compliments were returned, the sea breeze setting in, they were
obliged to come to an anchor. Since the arrival of the ship in Batavia
road, every person belonging to her had been ill, except the sail-maker,
who was more than seventy years old, yet this man got drunk every day
while they remained there. The Endeavour buried seven of her people at
Batavia, viz. Tupia and his boy, three of the sailors, the servant of
Mr. Green, the astronomer, and the Surgeon: and at the time of the
vessel’s sailing, forty of the crew were sick, and the rest so enfeebled
by their late illness, as to be scarcely able to do their duty.
The town of Batavia is situated in six degrees ten minutes south
latitude, and one hundred and six degrees fifty minutes east longitude,
from the meridian of Greenwich. It is built on the bank of a large bay,
something more than twenty miles from the Streight of Sunda, on the
north side of the island of Java, in low boggy ground. Several small
rivers, which rise forty miles up the country, in the mountains of
Blaeuwen Berg, discharge themselves into the sea at this place, having
first intersected the town in different directions. There are wide
canals of nearly stagnated water in almost every street, and as the
banks of these canals are planted with rows of trees, the effect is very
agreeable; but these trees and canals combine to render the air
pestilential. Some of the rivers are navigable, more than thirty miles
up the country; and, indeed, the Dutch appear to have chosen this spot
to build the town on, for the sake of water-carriage, in which
convenience Batavia exceeds every place in the world, except the towns
of Holland.
A writer, who published an account of this place near fifty years ago,
makes the number of houses at that time 4760, viz. 1242 Dutch houses,
and 1200 Chinese houses, within the walls; and 1066 Dutch houses, and
1240 Chinese houses, without the walls, with twelve houses for the
vending of arrack. The streets of Batavia being wide, and the houses
large, it stands on more ground than any other place that has only an
equal number of houses.
In dry weather a most horrid stench arises from the canals, and taint
the air to a great degree; and when the rains have so swelled the canals
that they overflow their banks, the ground-floors of the houses, in the
lower parts of the town, are filled with stinking water, that leaves
behind it dirt and slime in amazing quantities. The running streams are
sometimes as offensive as the stagnant canals; for the bodies of dead
animals are frequently lodged on the shallow parts, where they are left
to putrify, and corrupt the air, except a flood happens to carry them
away: this was the case with a dead buffaloe, while the crew of the
Endeavour were there, which lay stinking on the shoal of a river, in one
of the chief streets, for several days.
They sometimes clean the canals; but this business is performed in such
a manner, as scarcely to make them less a nuisance than before; for the
bottom being cleared of its black mud, it is left on the side of the
canal till it is hard enough to be taken away in boats; and as there are
no houses for necessary retirement in the whole town, the filth is
thrown into the canals regularly once a day, so that this mud is a
compound of every thing that can be imagined disagreeable and offensive.
There is a new church in Batavia, which is a fine piece of building, and
the dome of it may be seen far off at sea. This church is illuminated by
chandeliers of the most superb workmanship, and has a fine organ: most
of the other public buildings are ancient, constructed in an ill taste,
and give a very compleat idea of Dutch clumsiness.
Their method of building their houses seems to have been taught them by
the climate. On the ground-floor there is no room but a large hall, a
corner of which is parted off for the transaction of business: the hall
has two doors, which are commonly left open, and are opposite each
other, so that the air passes freely through the room, in the middle of
which there is a court, which at once encreases the draft of air, and
affords light to the hall: the stairs, which are at one corner, lead to
large and lofty apartments above. The female slaves are not permitted to
sit in any place, but in the alcove formed by the court; and this is the
usual dining-place of the family.
The town of Batavia is encompassed by a river of shallow water, the
stream of which is very rapid: within this river, which is of different
widths in various places, is an old stone wall, much decayed in many
places, and within the wall is a canal that is likewise much wider in
some places than in others: so that there is no entering the gates of
the town but by crossing two draw-bridges: there are but few guns on the
ramparts, and no persons are permitted to walk there. There is a kind of
citadel, or castle, in the north-east corner of the town, the walls of
which are both broader and higher than they are in other parts; it is
furnished with a number of large guns, which command the landing-place.
Apartments are provided in this castle for the Governor General and all
the Council; and in case of a siege they have orders to retire thither.
In the castle are likewise a number of store-houses, in which the
effects belonging to the Company are deposited. The Company have in
their possession large quantities of gun-powder, which is kept in
different places, that the lightning may not destroy the whole stock at
once; a great number of cannon are likewise laid up within the castle.
There are a great many forts built in different parts of the country,
several miles distant from Batavia, most probably erected to keep the
natives in submission; and besides these there are a number of fortified
houses, each mounting eight guns, and these are so stationed as to
command the canals, and the roads on their borders. There are houses of
this kind in many parts of the island of Java, and the other islands in
its neighbourhood, of which the Dutch have obtained the possession. The
Chinese having rebelled against the Dutch in the year 1740, all their
principal houses were demolished by the cannon of one of these fortified
houses, which is in the town of Batavia, where, likewise, there are a
few more of them.
The roads of this country are simply banks between the ditches and
canals; and the fortified houses being erected among the morasses near
these roads, nothing is easier than to destroy them, and consequently to
prevent an enemy from bringing any heavy artillery near the town; if,
indeed, an enemy be only hindered a short time in his approach, he is
effectually ruined, for the climate will preclude the necessity of the
use of weapons for his destruction. Before the Endeavour had been a week
at Batavia they began to feel the ill effects of the climate; half the
crew were rendered incapable of doing their duty before the expiration
of a month. They were informed, that it was a very uncommon thing for
fifty soldiers, out of a hundred brought from Europe, to be alive at the
expiration of the first year, and that of the fifty who might happen to
be alive, not ten of those would be in sound health, and, probably, not
less than half of them in the hospital. One would imagine that no man of
common sense would be tempted to reside at Batavia, for any
consideration of interest whatever; yet such is the insatiable thirst of
gold, that men will voluntarily risk the loss of life to obtain it, and
even ensure the loss of that health, without which the most splendid
fortune cannot be enjoyed.
All the white inhabitants of Batavia are soldiers, and, at the
expiration of five years service, they are bound to hold themselves in
readiness to go to war, if they should be wanted; and the younger
inhabitants are frequently mustered; but as they are neither trained nor
exercised after the expiration of the five years above-mentioned, the
little they have learnt is soon forgotten, and they would probably, if
called to action, make as _good soldiers as the militia of the city of
London_. The Portuguese, who live in this country, employ themselves
very much in shooting the deer, and the wild hog, whence they become
excellent marksmen. The Indians, of whatever nation, who reside here,
and have either been made free, or were born so, are called Mardykers;
but neither these nor the Chinese are acquainted with the use of
fire-arms; yet, as these people are said to possess great personal
bravery, much might be expected from their expert use of their daggers,
swords and lances.
From what has been above written it is evident, that it would be a
laborious task to attack Batavia by land; and it is not possible to make
any attack at all by sea, for the shallowness of the water would hinder
any vessels from advancing within cannon shot of the walls; indeed there
is barely depth of water for a ship’s long-boat, excepting a narrow
channel, called the river, which extends about half a mile into the
harbour, and is strongly bounded on each side with piers the other end
of it being directly under the fire of the castle; while its
communication with the canals of the town is prevented by a boom of
wood, which is every night shut precisely at six o’clock, and never
opened till the following day.
Any number of ships may anchor in the harbour of Batavia, the ground of
which is so excellent, that the anchor will never quit its hold. This
harbour is sometimes dangerous for boats, when the sea breeze blows
fresh; but, upon the whole, it is deemed the best and most commodious in
all India.
There are a considerable number of islands which are situated round the
outside of the harbour, and all these are in the possession of the
Dutch, who destine them to different purposes. On one of them, which is
called Purmerent, an hospital is erected, on account of the air being
purer than it is at Batavia. In a second, the name of which is Kuyper,
are erected a number of warehouses, in which are lodged the rice, and
some other commodities, the property of the Dutch East India Company: at
this island those ships belonging to different nations, which are to be
repaired at Ourust, unlade their cargoes; and it was here that the
stores of the Falmouth Man of War were laid up, when she was condemned,
on her return from Manilla; her warrant officers, of whom mention has
been made in the account of Captain Wallis’s voyage, were sent to Europe
in Dutch ships, about half a year before the Endeavour anchored in the
road of Batavia. A third of these islands, the name of which is Edam, is
appropriated to the reception of such offenders, whose crimes are not
deemed worthy of death, and hither they are transported from Holland,
and detained from five to forty years, in proportion to the turpitude of
the offence they have committed; the making of ropes is the principal
part of the employment of these criminals.
The environs of Batavia have a very pleasing appearance, and would, in
almost any other country, be an enviable situation. Gardens and houses
occupy the country for several miles; but the gardens are so covered
with trees, that the advantage of the land having been cleared of the
wood that originally covered it, is almost wholly lost; while these
gardens, and the fields adjacent to them are surrounded by ditches which
yield not the most fragrant smell; and the bogs and morasses in the
adjacent fields are still more offensive.
For the space of more than thirty miles beyond the town the land is
totally flat, except in two places, on one of which the Governor’s
country-seat is built, and on the other they hold a large market but
neither of these places are higher than ten yards from the level of the
plain. At near forty miles from the town, the land rises into hills, and
the air is purified in a great degree; to this distance the invalids are
sent by their physicians, when every other prospect of their recovery
has failed, and the experiment succeeds in almost every instance, for
the sick are soon restored to health; but they no sooner return to the
town, than their former disorders visit them. On these hills the most
opulent of the inhabitants have country-seats, to which they pay an
annual visit. Those who reside constantly on the hills enjoy an almost
perpetual flow of health; and most of the vegetables of Europe grow as
freely here as in their native ground: the strawberry, in particular,
flourishes greatly, which is a sufficient proof of the coolness of the
air.
The rice of this country is very plentiful, and, in order to be brought
to perfection, should lie under water more than half the time it is
growing: but they have a sort which grows on the sides of the hills,
which is unknown in the West India Islands; this sort is planted when
the wet season commences, and the crop is gathered in soon after the
rains are over.
The maize which grows near Batavia is gathered while young, and toasted
in the ear. The land likewise produces carrots, pigeon-peas, celery,
parsley, asparagus, onions, rhadishes, cabbages, lettuces, cucumbers,
lentiles, kidney-beans, hysop, sage, rue, Chinese white rhadishes,
which, when boiled, are not unlike a parsnip, common potatoes, sweet
potatoes, wet and dry yams, millet, and the egg plant, the fruit of
which, when broiled and eaten with salt and pepper, is most exquisite
food.
Amazing quantities of sugar are produced here, and, while the quantity
is beyond comparison greater, the care of cultivation is inconceivably
less than in the West India Islands. White sugar is retailed at
two-pence and two-pence half-penny the pound, and arrack is made of the
molasses, with a small addition of rice, and the wine of the cocoa-nut.
The inhabitants likewise raise a little indigo for their own use, but do
not export it.
The fruits of this country are near forty in number, and of some of
these there are several kinds. Pine apples grow in such abundance that
they may be purchased, at the first hand, for the value of an English
farthing; and they bought some very large ones for a half-penny a piece
at the fruit shops, though they are excellent eating, it is imagined
they are reared to equal perfection in the hot-houses of England. They
grow so luxuriantly, that seven or eight suckers have been seen adhering
to one stem.
The sweet oranges of Batavia are good of their kind, but very dear at
particular times. The shaddocks of the West Indies, called here
Pumplemoeses, have an agreeable flavour. Lemons were very scarce when
the Endeavour lay in the harbour, but limes were altogether as
plentiful, and sold at little more than two-pence the score. There are
many kinds of oranges and lemons, but none of them excellent. Of mangos
there are plenty, but their taste is far inferior to that of the
melting-peach of England, to which they have been compared. It is said
that the heat, and extreme dampness of the climate, does not agree with
them; yet there are many different kinds of them. Of bananes there is an
amazing variety of sorts, some of which, being boiled, are eaten as
bread, while others are fried in batter, and are a nutrimental food:
but, of the numerous sorts of this fruit, three only are fit to be
eaten: one, indeed, is remarkable, because it is filled with seeds,
which are not common to the rest. Grapes are sold from one shilling to
eighteen-pence the pound, though they are far from being good.
The tamarinds are equally cheap and plentiful; but as the method of
preserving them, which is in salt, renders them a mere black lump, they
are equally nauseating to the sight and the palate. The water melons are
excellent of their kind, and are produced in great abundance. The
pumpkins are boiled as turneps, and eaten with salt and pepper. This
fruit is admirably adapted to the use of voyagers, as it will keep many
months without care, and makes an excellent pye, when mixed with the
juice of lemons and sugar. The papaws of this country are superior to
turneps, if the cores are extracted, after paring them when they are
green. The guava has a strong smell, and a taste not less disagreeable:
it is probable, that the guava of the West Indies, which many writers
have distinguished by their praises, has a very different flavour. The
sweet sop is a fruit that has but little flavour: it abounds in large
kernels, from which the pulp is sucked. The taste of the custard-apple
very much resembles the dish from which its name is taken. The
cashew-apple produces a nut which is not unknown in England; but the
fruit has such an astringent quality, that the Batavians seldom eat of
it: the nut grows on the top of the apple. The cocoa-nut is plentiful in
this country, and there are several kinds of this fruit, the best of
which is very red between the shell and the skin. The jamboo is a fruit
that has but little taste, but is of a cooling nature: it is
considerably less than a common sized apple, and those that have grown
to their full size are always the best; its shape is oval, and its
colour the deep red. Of the jambu-eyer, there are two kinds, the white
and the red: they are shaped like a bell, and are something bigger than
a cherry: they have no kind of taste but that of a watery acid. The
jambu-eyer mauwar smells like a rose, and its taste is not unlike that
of conserve of roses. The mangostan is of a dark red colour, and not
larger than a small apple; to the bottom of this fruit adhere several
little leaves of the blossom, while on its top are a number of triangles
combined in a circle: it contains several kernels ranged in a circular
form, within which is the pulp, a fruit of most exquisite taste: it is
equally nutritious and agreeable, and is constantly given to persons who
are troubled with inflammatory or putrid fevers. The sweet orange of
this country is likewise given in the same disorders. The pomgranate of
these parts differs in nothing from that generally well known in
England. The durion takes its name from the word _dure_, which, in the
language of the country, means prickle; and this name is well adapted to
the fruit, the shell of which is covered with sharp points shaped like a
sugar-loaf: its contents are nuts, not much smaller than chesnuts, which
are surrounded with a kind of juice resembling cream; and of this the
inhabitants eat with great avidity: the smell of this fruit is more like
that of onions, than any other European vegetable, and its taste is like
that of onions, sugar, and cream intermixed: the inside of the durion,
when ripe, is parted, lengthways, into several divisions. The nanca is a
fruit which smells like garlic and apples mixed together: its size, in
the gardens of Batavia, is not greater than that of a middling sized
pumpkin, and its shape is nearly the same: it is covered with prickles
of an angular form. They were informed that, at a place called Madura,
it has been known to grow to such an enormous size, as to require the
strength of two men to carry it. The champada is in all respects like
the nanca, only that it is not so large. The rambutan contains a fruit,
within which is a stone, that is, perhaps, the finest acid in the world:
this fruit is not unlike a chesnut with its husk on; and it is covered
with small prickles of a dark red colour, and so soft as to yield to the
slightest impression. The jambolan resembles a damascen, both in colour
and size; and is of a very astringent nature. The boa bidarra tastes
like an apple, but is likewise extremely astringent; its size is that of
a gooseberry, its form round, and its colour yellow. The nam nam makes
an excellent fritter, if fried in batter, but is not esteemed when raw:
the rind of it is rough, its length is about three inches, and its shape
not unlike that of a kidney. The catappa and the canare are two species
of nuts, the kernels of which are like those of an almond, but so hard,
that it is almost impossible to break them. The madja contains a pulp of
a sharp taste, which is eaten with sugar: this fruit is covered with a
very hard shell. The suntal is a fruit scarcely fit to be eaten, being
at once astringent, acid, and of a most unpleasant taste, yet it is
publickly sold in the streets of Batavia: it contains a number of
kernels, which are inclosed in a thick skin. The salack is nearly of the
size of a small golden pippin, and contains a few kernels of a yellow
colour, the taste of which is not unlike that of a strawberry; but the
covering of this fruit is very remarkable, as it consists of a number of
scales resembling those of a fish. The cherrema and the blimbing are two
sour fruits, exceedingly well adapted to make sour sauce and pickles.
The blimbing besse is another fruit of the same kind, but considerably
sweeter.
Of the fruits not in season when Captain Cook was at Batavia, he
mentions the boa atap, and the kimkit, which he saw preserved in sugar;
and there are several other sorts which the Batavians are fond of, but
they are never eaten by strangers, among those are the moringa, the
guilindina, the kellor, and the soccum, this last has the appearance of
the bread-fruit, which is produced in the islands of the South Seas, but
it is not near so good; tho’ the tree on which it grows is also exactly
like the bread fruit tree.
The fruit sold at the common shops is generally too ripe; but in a
street, named Passar Pissang, which is inhabited by Chinese fruiterers
only, that which is very good may be obtained, but at a price greatly
exceeding its value. The gardens of gentlemen near the town furnish
these Chinese fruit-sellers; but the other dealers are supplied from a
greater distance up the country, where the inhabitants live by the
cultivation of large tracts of land, for the sole purpose of raising
fruit.
It is astonishing to conceive what quantities of fruit are eaten at
Batavia. Two large markets are held weekly, at distant places, for the
accommodation of persons residing in different parts of the country; and
at these markets the fruit-sellers of the town meet the gardeners, and
purchase their goods at very low rates: but as the markets are held on
Mondays and Saturdays, those who wish to be supplied with what is fresh,
in the middle of the week, must apply to the Chinese dealers above
mentioned, as the heat of the climate renders it unfit for eating in a
few days. At these markets it is common to see “fifty or sixty
cart-loads of the finest pine-apples carelessly tumbled together.”
The Batavians, and the natives of other parts of the island of Java,
strew an immense number of flowers about their houses, and are almost
always burning aromatic woods and gums; which, it is imagined, is done
by way of purifying the air; the stench that arises from the canals and
ditches being exceeding nauseous and disagreeable.
The sweet scented flowers of this country are very numerous, many of
which being totally unknown in England, we shall mention a few of the
most remarkable.--The combang tonquin, and combang caracnassi, are very
fragrant flowers, but unlike any thing seen in the gardens of Europe:
they are very small, seem to be of the dog’s-bane kind, and both in
smell and shape are very much alike.--The cananga looks more like a
bunch of leaves than a flower; its smell is singular, but extremely
pleasant.--The bonja tanjong is of a pale yellow colour, and delightful
smell; it is about an inch and a half in circumference, and consists of
pointed leaves, which give it the form of a star.--The champacka smells
somewhat like a jonquil, and is otherwise not unlike it, though rather
of a deeper yellow: this flower is produced by a large tree.
The sundal malam is only mentioned on account of its name, which
implies, “the intriguer of the night.” This flower has no kind of smell
during the day-time, but on the approach of the night its sweets begin
to disclose themselves, and its fragrancy is almost unequalled: in other
respects it is the same as the tuberose of England.
All the above-mentioned kinds of flowers being made into nosegays of
various shapes, or strung on a piece of thread, are carried through the
streets of an evening for sale. The gardens of the gentlemen afford many
flowers besides those above-mentioned, but they do not grow in numbers
sufficient to be offered to sale.
This country produces a plant, called pandang, the leaves of which being
shred small, and mixed with a variety of flowers, the natives, both men
and women, fill their clothes and hair with this fragrant mixture, which
they likewise sprinkle on their beds, and sleep beneath a profusion of
sweets; a single sheet of fine chintz being all the other covering of
the bed.
Formerly the island of Java produced no kind of spices but pepper, and
the quantity which the Dutch bring annually from thence is very
considerable; but the quantity that is made use of in the country is
very small, as the people there give the preference to Cayan pepper. The
inhabitants are extremely fond of nutmegs and cloves, but they bear too
high a price to be much in use, as the trees which produce them are all
become Dutch property.
Cloves are now grown no where but on the island of Amboina, and some
little islands near it; the artful Hollanders having possessed
themselves of all the trees, in consequence of several subsequent
treaties of peace, with the several kings of the other islands; for at
the conclusion of every war, the conquerors left the poor Indians still
fewer trees, by way of punishment for their opposition, till, in the
end, they have destroyed them all.
There are scarce any nutmegs, except on the island of Banda, where they
originally grew; this island, however, produces a plenty, equal to the
demand of all the world. On the coast of New Guinea there are a small
number of nutmeg-trees.
The island of Java produces goats, sheep, hogs, buffaloes, and horses.
The horse, which is said to have been met with here when the country was
originally discovered, is a small, but nimble animal, being seldom above
thirteen hands high. The horned cattle of this country are different
from those of Europe: the flesh is extremely lean, but of a very fine
grain. Both the Chinese and the natives of the island feed on the
buffaloe; but the Dutch will neither taste the flesh nor the milk, from
a ridiculous idea, that they are productive of fevers. The sheep are
tough and ill-tasted; their skins are hairy, and they have long
hanging-ears. A few sheep from the Cape of Good Hope being at Batavia,
Captain Cook bought some of them at the rate of a shilling a pound.
The hogs, especially those of the Chinese breed, are exquisitely fine
food, but so extravagantly fat, that the lean is always sold separately.
The butchers, who are Chinese, have no kind of objection to taking off
the fat, which they melt, and sell to their countrymen, who eat it with
their rice: though these hogs are such fine food, yet the Dutch prefer
the breed of Holland, which are consequently sold at extravagant rates.
[Illustration: _The hooded Serpent._ _An Ape of Java._]
The Portuguese make a practice of shooting the wild hog, and deer of two
kinds, with which the neighbourhood of Batavia abounds: these are all
good eating, and are purchased at very moderate prices. The goats of
this country are as bad food as the sheep. Dogs and cats abound on the
island, and wild horses and other cattle are found on the mountains at a
considerable distance from Batavia.
Few monkies are seen near the town, but there are many of them on the
mountains and desart places, where also are a few rhinoceroses, and
great numbers of tygers.
The quantity of fish taken here is astonishingly great, and all the
kinds of them are fine food, except a few which are very scarce; yet
such is the false pride of the inhabitants, that these few scarce sorts
are sold at very high rates, while those that are good are sold for a
mere trifle, nor are they eaten but by the slaves. A gentleman with whom
Captain Cook dined told him, he could have bought a finer dish of fish
for a shilling, than what he had given ten for; but that he should have
been the ridicule of all the politer people, if he had gone to so good a
market.
The Dutch will not taste of the turtle which are taken here: Captain
Cook acknowledges that they are fine eating, though not equal to those
catched in the West Indies, even when they are dressed in London. Mr.
Banks shot a lizard five feet in length, which was extremely well
tasted: our adventurers were informed, that some of these animals had
been seen, which were full as thick as the thigh of a man.
This country produces an abundance of poultry, as excellent of their
kinds as those of England. The turkies are immoderately dear, and the
pigeons not much less so; but the geese, ducks, and fine large fowls are
altogether as cheap.
The neighbourhood of Batavia produces snipes of two kinds, one of which
was the same as the English: of the Portuguese, who appear to be the
only dealers in wild fowl, any number of thrushes might have been
purchased. Our adventurers once, and once only, saw a wild duck in the
fields, but never observed any of these birds exposed to sale; and,
indeed, wild fowl in general are far from being plentiful at Batavia.
Captain Cook observes, as a singularity respecting the snipe, that he is
to be met with in all the quarters of the globe, and is seen in a
greater variety of places than any other of the whole feathered
creation.
The liquors of the island of Java, are palm-wine and arrack; of the
former they have three sorts, the first of which is drank within a few
hours after it is drawn from the tree, and almost in its original state,
when it has a moderate sweetness: the second and third sorts are made by
fermenting it, and putting various herbs and roots into it: the first of
these liquors will not occasion drunkenness, but the two latter will.
The arrack is so generally known, as not to demand any description.
The natives of Java profess the religion of Mahomet, and of course do
not indulge in wine, at least publickly; but not to be exceeded in the
vice of drunkenness by their christian neighbours, they are almost
constantly chewing opium, which is well known to intoxicate in a high
degree.
Exclusive of the Chinese, and the Indians of many different nations, who
inhabit the town of Batavia, and the country in its neighbourhood, the
inhabitants are, proportionably, a very small number; and even of these
not a fifth part are Dutch, or descended from natives of Holland: the
Portuguese are more in number than all the other Europeans.
The troops in the Dutch service are composed of the natives of almost
all the kingdoms of Europe; but of these the Germans out-number all the
others. When a person of any country goes to reside at Batavia, it is
necessary that he first enter as a soldier in the service of the Dutch
East India Company, binding himself to serve five years, which being
done, he applies to the Council for leave of absence, which being
granted of course, he then engages in any business he thinks proper:
thus the Dutch have always an army ready to be called forth on any
emergency. No foreigner, of whatever nation, has any share in the
management of public affairs, all places of power, trust and profit,
being held by the Dutch.
Though the men of other countries are bound to the observation of the
above-mentioned conditions, women, from any part of the globe, may
reside and traffick at Batavia unmolested. Captain Cook was informed
that, at the time he was there, the whole place could not furnish fifty
women who were natives of Europe, yet the town abounded with white
women, who were descended from Europeans, who had settled there at
different times, all the men having paid the debt of nature; for so it
is, that the climate of Batavia destroys the men much faster than the
women. These women follow the delicate custom of chewing betel, after
the example of the native Javanese, whose dress they imitate, and whose
manners they copy, in all other respects.
Mercantile business is conducted at Batavia with the slightest trouble
imaginable: when a merchant receives an order for goods of any kind, he
communicates the contents of it to the Chinese, who are the universal
manufacturers. The Chinese Agent delivers the effects on board the ship,
for which they are bespoke, and taking a receipt for them from the
master of the vessel, he delivers it to the merchant, who pays the
Chinese for the goods, and reserves a considerable profit, without the
least trouble, risk, or anxiety. But when a merchant imports goods of
any kind, he receives them himself, and lodges them in his own
warehouses. It may be wondered, that the Chinese do not ship the goods
on their own account; but from this they are restricted, and compelled
to sell them to the merchants only.
The inhabitants of Java distinguish the Portuguese by the name of
_Oranserane_, that is, Nazareen men; but they use the general term of
_Caper_, or _Casir_, respecting all who do not profess the religion of
Mahomet; and in this they include the Portuguese. But the Portuguese of
Batavia are so only in name; for they have neither any connection with,
or knowledge of, the kingdom of Portugal, and they have changed the
religion of the church of Rome, for that of Luther. With the manners of
the Javanese, they are wholly familiarized, and they commonly speak
their language, though they are able to converse in a corrupt kind of
Portuguese. They dress in the habit of the country, with a difference
only in the manner of wearing their hair: their noses are more peaked,
and their skin of a deeper cast than that of the natives. Some of them
are mechanics and artificers, others subsist by washing of linen, and
the rest procure a maintenance by hunting.
The Indian inhabitants of Batavia, and the country in its neighbourhood,
are not native Javanese, but are either born on the several islands from
whence the Dutch bring their slaves, or the offspring of such as have
been born on those islands: and these having been made free, either in
their own persons, or in the persons of their ancestors, enjoy all the
privileges of freemen. They receive the general appellation of Oranslam,
which implies, “Believers of the true faith.”
The various other Indian inhabitants of this country attach themselves
each to the original customs of that, in which either themselves or
their ancestors were born; keeping themselves apart from those of other
nations, and practising both the virtues and vices peculiar to their own
countries. The cultivation of gardens, and the consequent sale of
flowers and fruit, afford subsistence to great numbers of them: these
are the people who raise the betel and areca, which being mixed with
lime, and a substance which is called _gambir_, the produce of the
Indian continent, is chewed by persons of all ranks, women as well as
men: indeed some of the politer ladies make an addition of cardamum, and
other aromatics, to take off the disagreeable smell with which the
breath would be otherwise tainted. Some of the Indians are very rich,
keep a great number of slaves, and live, in all respects, according to
the customs of their respective countries; while others are employed to
convey goods by water; and others again subsist by fishing.
The Oranslams feed principally on boiled rice, mixed with a small
quantity of dried shrimps and other fish, which are imported from China,
and a little of the flesh of buffaloes and chicken: they are fond of
fruit, of which they eat large quantities; and with the flower of the
rice they make several sorts of pastry. They sometimes make very superb
entertainments, after the fashion of their respective countries; but, in
general, they are a very temperate people: of wine they drink very
little, if any, as the religion of Mahomet, which they profess, forbids
the use of it.
When a marriage is to be solemnized among the Oranslams, all the gold
and silver ornaments that can be procured, are borrowed to deck out the
young couple, who on these occasions never fail to make the most
splendid appearance. Sumptuous entertainments are given by those who can
afford them, which continue twelve or fourteen days, and frequently
more, during all which time the women take care that the bridegroom
shall not visit his wife privately, though the wedding takes place
previous to the festival.
All these Indians, though they come from different countries, speak the
Malay language, if it deserves that name. On the island of Java there
are two or three different dialects; and there is a language peculiar to
every small island; it is conjectured, that the Malay tongue is a
corruption of the language of Malacca.
The hair of the people, which is black, without a single exception,
grows in great abundance: yet the women make use of oils and other
ingredients, to increase the quantity of it: they fasten it to the crown
of the head with a bodkin, having first twisted it into a circle, round
which circle they place an elegant wreath of flowers, so that the whole
head-dress has the most beautiful appearence that imagination can form
an idea of.
It is the universal custom, both with the men and women, to bathe in a
river once every day, and sometimes oftener, which not only promotes
health, but prevents that contraction of filth, which would be otherwise
unavoidable in so hot a climate.
The teeth of the Oranslams have some particularities in them well worthy
of notice. With a kind of whetstone they rub the ends of them till they
are quite flat and even; they then make a deep groove in the teeth of
the upper jaw, in the centre between the bottom of each tooth and the
gum, and horizontally with the latter; this groove is equal in depth to
a quarter of the thickness of the teeth; yet none of these people have a
rotten tooth, though, according to the dentists of England and France,
such a thing must be unavoidable, as the tooth is pierced much deeper
than what we call the enamel. The teeth of these people become very
black by the chewing of betel, yet a slight washing will take off this
blackness, and the teeth are then perfectly white; but they are very
seldom washed, as the depth of the colour is very far from being thought
disagreeable.
Almost every person has read or heard of the Mohawks; and these are the
people who are so denominated, from a corruption of the word Amock,
which will be well explained by the following story and observations. To
run a muck is to get drunk with opium, and then seizing some offensive
weapon, to sally forth from the house, kill the person or persons
supposed to have injured the Amock, and any other person that attempts
to impede his passage, till he himself is taken prisoner, or killed on
the spot.--While Captain Cook was at Batavia, a person whose
circumstances in life were independent becoming jealous of his brother,
intoxicated himself with opium, and then murdered his brother, and two
other men, who endeavoured to seize him. This man, contrary to the usual
custom, did not leave his own house, but made his resistance from within
it; yet he had taken such a quantity of the opium, that he was totally
delirious, which appeared from his attempting to fire three muskets,
neither of which had been loaded, or even primed.
During the time that Captain Cook was at Batavia, several instances of
the like kind occurred, and he was informed by an officer, whose duty it
was to take such offenders into custody, that hardly a week passed in
the year in which he was not obliged to exercise his authority: the
Captain was also told, that jealousy of the women is the usual reason of
these poor creatures running a muck, and that the first object of their
vengeance is always the person whom they suppose to have injured them.
The officer, whose business it is to apprehend these unhappy wretches,
is furnished with a long pair of tongs, in order to take hold of them at
such a distance from the point of their weapons, as to insure his
personal safety. When he takes one of them alive he is amply rewarded;
but this is not often the case, as they are so desperate as not to be
easily apprehended: when they are killed in the attempt to take them,
the officer has only the customary gratification. Those who are taken
alive are broken on the wheel, as near as possible to the place where
the first murder was perpetrated; and, as they are seldom apprehended
without being previously wounded, the time of their execution is sooner
or later, according to the opinions of the physicians, whether the
wounds are, or are not mortal.
The Oranslams believe that the Devil is the author of sickness, and
other misfortunes, on which account they make an oblation of meat,
money, and other things, to him, when they are either sick or in
trouble. When they dream successively for several nights, they have no
doubt but that the Devil has enjoined the performance of some act, to
discover which they torture their brains in vain, and then apply to the
priest, who never fails to interpret the dream in a satisfactory manner.
In consequence of this interpretation, by which it appears that the
Devil is in want of money and food, a quantity of each is placed in the
leaves of the cocoa-nut tree, and being hung on the bough of a tree by
the side of a river, is left till some passenger shall find, and take
away the money, which is considered not so much an offering to the
Devil, as a fine due for some crime committed; with regard to the food,
they imagine that the Devil comes and sucks out the nutritious parts of
it, without moving it out of its place. From this part of the story it
seems reasonable to conclude, that the priest, having previous knowledge
where the oblation is to be made, takes the money, and leaves the
victuals.
This instance of the superstition of these people may be thought very
extraordinary; but the following will appear much more so. They are
possessed with an idea, that when one of their wives is brought to bed,
a crocodile is born, as a brother to the infant; and they imagine that
the midwife conveys the young crocodile to an adjacent river, into which
she puts it, with the utmost care and tenderness. Those who suppose
themselves honoured by the birth of this new relation, fail not to put
food in the river for his subsistence; but this is the peculiar duty of
the twin brother, who performs this service regularly, at fixed periods,
during the whole course of his life; firmly believing at the same time,
that sickness or death would be the consequence of an omission on his
part.
In the islands of Boutou and Celebes the natives keep crocodiles in
their families; and it is conjectured, that the strange idea of the twin
crocodile was first conceived in one of those islands: it extends,
however, to Java and Sumatra westward, and among the islands to the
eastward as far as Ceram and Timor. It is a matter of perfect
astonishment, how even the most ignorant and credulous of the human
race, should firmly believe an utter impossibility to occur daily; yet
it is certain, that not one of the Indians whom Captain Cook questioned
on the subject, entertained the least doubt about the matter. The
crocodiles supposed to be thus born are distinguished by the name of
_Sudaras_; and our readers cannot fail of being entertained with the
following story respecting them, which Mr. Banks heard from a young
woman who was born at Bencoolen, and having lived among the English at
that place, had learnt to speak as much of our language as was
sufficient to make her story intelligible.
She said that, when her father was on his death-bed, he laid the
strongest injunctions on her to feed a crocodile that was his _Sudara_;
that he told her the name by which he might be called up, and the
particular part of the river where she would find him. Soon after the
death of her father, she hastened to the river, and calling _Radja
Pouti_ (which signifies white king) the Sudara crocodile made his
appearance, and she fed him with her own hands. She described him as
being more beautiful than crocodiles are in general, for he had a red
nose, and spots on his body; his ears were adorned with rings, and his
feet with ornaments of gold. This story will appear the more
extravagantly ridiculous, when it is recollected that crocodiles have
not any ears.
A man whose mother was a native of the island of Java, and whose father
was a Dutchman, was engaged in the service of Mr. Banks during his
residence at Batavia. This man told his master that several Dutchmen,
and many Javanese, as well as himself, had seen such a crocodile as was
described by the girl who told the preceding story, and that, like
her’s, its feet were adorned with gold. On Mr. Banks’s remarking the
absurdity of these tales, and saying that crocodiles had not ears, he
replied, that the Sudaras differed considerably from other crocodiles;
that they had ears, though he acknowledged they were small, that their
tongues filled their mouths, and that on each foot they had five toes.
There are three tribes of Indians on the island of Batavia, who are
called Boetons, Macassars, and Bougis. These people are firm believers
in the existence of the Sudara crocodiles; and they have a custom among
them, which, however ridiculous in itself, seems to do honour to their
filial and fraternal affections. At fixed periods they assemble
together, and having laden a large boat with various sorts of
provisions, they launch her at a spot most likely to be frequented by
crocodiles; here they row about, sometimes singing and sometimes
weeping, while a variety of musical instruments are played on, till they
get sight of a crocodile. The moment this happens they throw tobacco,
betel and victuals of several sorts, over the side of the boat, as a
friendly offering to the Sudara crocodiles of their own country;
imagining, that by this means they conciliate the affections and good
will of their relations, whom they fail not to invoke during the whole
of the ceremony.
The Chinese inhabitants of Batavia are, like those of their own country,
some of the most industrious people on the face of the earth. They act
as embroiderers, dyers of cotton, taylors, carpenters, joiners, smiths,
and makers of slippers: some of them are shop-keepers, and deal largely
in the manufactures of Europe and China. A few of these people live
within the walls of the town; but the majority of them take up their
residence in a district, named Campang China, which is situated without
the walls. Those of the Chinese, who live in the country, either keep
buffaloes and other cattle, the milk of which they sell daily at
Batavia, or they procure a subsistence by the raising of rice and sugar
canes, and the cultivation of gardens.
Captain Cook observes, that the danger of being hanged for any crime
being excepted, there is nothing, however infamous, which a Chinese will
refuse to do for gain; and in this opinion he concurs with every
preceding writer; so that these people must have taken no small pains to
establish their reputation for knavery. They labour with unwearied
diligence, but the moment they have compleated their work they sit down
to dice, cards, or some other of the very numerous games which they are
expert at; and they follow their sports with such eagerness, that the
business of eating and sleeping is frequently suspended.
The cloaths of the Chinese, whether rich or poor, are singularly clean
and decent. Their behaviour is civil even to humility. They are such
temperate eaters, that gluttony is unknown among them; but as their
religion does not command them to refrain from any particular food, they
eat a variety of things which are denied to those Indians who profess
the Mahometan faith. Exclusive of vegetables and fish of various kinds,
their principal food consists of dogs, cats, lizards, frogs, serpents of
several sorts, and hogs.
The Chinese have purchased of the Dutch, at a very large expence,
several hundred acres of land in the vicinity of Batavia, for the
interment of their dead; for it is a rule, from which they never depart,
not to open a grave which has once received the body of one of their
countrymen: and hence arises an enormous expence in the purchase of
land, which greatly distresses the living, to pay an imaginary honour to
the dead. In order to preserve the body as long as possible from decay,
the coffin consists of a piece of solid timber hollowed out: and this
being covered with a kind of mortar several inches thick, petrifies in
the ground till it is as hard as a flint. The funeral is attended by the
near relations of the deceased, and by a train of women, who are paid
for making lamentations.
In these expensive customs, absurd as they are, the Chinese are equalled
by the rest of their Batavian neighbours; for every person is buried
with a degree of splendour proportioned to the rank he has held in life,
and there is a positive law which enjoins the observance of this custom;
in consequence of which it frequently happens, that those who have not
money sufficient to pay the just demands on them, are buried in a
pompous manner, merely because they have lived elegantly. In this case
persons are employed to take an account of what the man died worth, and,
when the funeral expences are defrayed, the surplus is divided among the
creditors.
The various inhabitants of the island of Java, whether Dutch, Portuguese
or Indians, are all waited on by slaves, whose number is proportioned to
the circumstances of the master; but there are laws in force, that no
native of the island shall serve as a slave. These people, the number of
which is very great, are bought at Sumatra, and the other eastern
islands, at various prices, from ten to twenty pounds; but there have
been instances of very beautiful girls being sold at above five times
the common market price. They are fed on boiled rice, and such fish as
can be purchased at the lowest rates; a little of which satisfies them,
nor indeed do they deserve even the little they eat, for they are idle
and sluggish in the highest degree.
The negroes of Africa are purchased at a lower price than any other
slaves, and indeed any price whatever exceeds their merit, for they are
of the most obstinate dispositions, and thieves, without a single
exception. Those slaves which are purchased from the island of Celebes
are most intolerably lazy, and of so ferocious a disposition, that their
employers run the hazard of their personal safety. The island of Bali
furnishes the most useful slaves; and the little island Nias, near
Sumatra, supplies female slaves of exquisite beauty; but to these
ill-fated women death is the almost certain consequence of even a short
residence at Batavia.
The masters of any of these slaves may punish them in whatever way they
chuse, so as not to deprive them of life; but when it happens that a
slave dies of the punishment he has received, the master is tried, and
commonly suffers as a murderer. From this circumstance it is reasonable
to suppose, that the masters are cautious how they beat the slaves with
undue severity: it is not indeed very common for them to strike them at
all, but they pay an officer, who is called the Marineu, for inflicting
the punishment. The Marineu having heard what is alledged against the
delinquent, determines how many stripes he shall receive, and these are
given by slaves, whose particular business it is to obey the commands of
the Marineu: these strokes are laid on with rods made of rattans split
very small. For a severe whipping the Marineu receives a ducatoon, and a
rixdollar for a slighter punishment. The women slaves are whipped in the
house of the master, but the men publickly in the streets. In order that
these slaves may not be under too great temptations to steal, their
masters are compelled to allow them seven pence half-penny weekly for
pocket-money.
There is something singular in the subordination observed among the
inhabitants of Batavia and the adjacent country. The man who has been
longest in the Dutch East India Company’s service is permitted to gild
his coach, while others are allowed to ride in coaches differently
painted, according to the length of their services, and others again
ride in those that are quite plain. In like manner the coachmen are
dressed in liveries, that have a greater or less quantity of lace on
them, or without any lace at all.
The lawyers of Batavia are partial in their administration of justice,
to a very reprehensible degree. When an Indian has committed any crime
deemed worthy of death, he is impaled, hanged, or broken on the wheel,
without ceremony: on the contrary, if a Christian is capitally
convicted, execution very seldom follows the sentence: and, what is more
extraordinary, no pains are taken to apprehend the offender, till time
enough has been allowed him to run away, if he thinks proper.
The civil officers of justice among the Chinese and Malays are called
Captains and Lieutenants, but their decisions are not final, if the
party against whom they may decide, thinking himself aggrieved, should
appeal to the Dutch lawyers, in which case the decision of the latter
must be abided by.
The Dutch have laid considerable taxes on these people, among which is
one for the permission to wear their hair. When these taxes become due,
which is once a month, they hoist a flag on the top of a house, nearly
in the center of Batavia, and the man who does not speedily go and pay
his money, has reason to repent the omission.
The current money of this country is of different value, from a Dutch
doit to a ducat. When Captain Cook was at Batavia, Spanish dollars sold
at five shillings and five-pence each, and the price is seldom much
lower. The Chinese would give only the value of twenty shillings for an
English guinea that was almost new, and for those that were old, and
much worn, only seventeen shillings.
The milled ducatoons of Batavia are valued at eighty stivers; those that
are unmilled at seventy-two; the ducat at one hundred and thirty-two;
the imperial rixdollars at sixty; the rupees at thirty; the schellings
at six; the double cheys at two and a half; and the doits at a quarter
of a stiver.
We shall now proceed to a recital of the incidents which occurred during
their passage from Batavia to the Cape of Good Hope; in which we shall
trace them with the utmost fidelity, omitting not a single circumstance
that may either entertain or instruct the reader.
Early in the morning of the 27th of December 1770, the Endeavour left
the road of Batavia, and, after several hindrances, occasioned by the
wind being contrary, she stood over for the shore of Java, on the first
day of January 1771. As many of the ship’s crew, who had been very ill
while at Batavia, were now become much worse, the vessel was brought to
an anchor in the afternoon of the 5th near Princes Island, with a view
to get some necessary refreshments, and likewise to take in wood and
water.
Messieurs Solander and Banks now went ashore with the Captain, and they
were no sooner landed, than some of the natives conducted them to the
King of the island, with whom they endeavoured to make a bargain for
some turtle, but the price could not be agreed on. As our adventurers
had no doubt but that they should purchase on their own terms the
following day, they left the Indians, and proceeded in search of a
proper place to fill water, which was soon found. As they were about to
embark for the ship, they purchased three turtle from some of the
natives, but with the strictest injunction, that their Sovereign should
not be informed of the transaction.
On Sunday the 6th of January they purchased, at very moderate prices, as
many turtle as they had occasion for, and the whole ship’s company fed
on this delicious fish. The King was at this time at a house situated in
a rice field, where Mr. Banks waited on him, and found him cooking his
own victuals.
On Monday the inhabitants brought vegetables, deer, fish, fowls and
monkies, for sale; and on the following day they brought down a farther
number of turtle.
A servant that Mr. Banks had hired at Batavia having acquainted him,
that there was a town on the island, his curiosity determined him to
have a view of it, and one of the officers of the ship accompanied him
on his visit. As he was apprehensive that the natives would not be
pleased at his going to the town, he told such of them as he met, that
he was seeking for plants, which, in fact, was a part of the business of
the day. Having come to a kind of village, consisting of a very few
houses, they asked an Indian the way to the town, and some other
particulars respecting it; but he endeavoured to prevent their
proceeding, by representing it as at a very great distance. When he saw
they were resolved to go forward, he proceeded with them, making
frequent attempts to mislead them. When they were within sight of the
town, the Indian changed his behaviour at once, and led the way to it.
This place, which contains between three and four hundred houses, is
called Samadang, and is parted by a river into the old and the new town.
Some of the natives, whom the gentlemen remembered to have seen among
those who had brought provisions for sale, agreed to carry them from the
old town to the new for a trifling gratification. This was done by means
of two little canoes, which were lashed together; and they had no sooner
reached the opposite shore, than the Indians shewed them the houses of
their Chiefs, and behaved otherwise in the most friendly manner; but as
this was the season when the natives live in their rice-grounds, to save
their corn from the depredations of the monkies and birds, most of the
houses were shut. When the gentlemen had seen every thing that they
thought worthy of notice, they hired a sailing-boat, which conveyed them
to the ship time enough for dinner; for the town of Samadang, though at
a considerable distance from the place where the Endeavour lay at
anchor, is situated at only a small distance from the sea-coast.
On the 12th, while the Captain was on shore giving orders to the people
who were cutting wood and filling water, he was told, that one of the
natives had stolen an ax. The thief was unknown; but the Captain,
resolved not to pave the way for future depredations of this kind, by
taking no notice of the first offence, immediately applied to the King;
and in consequence of this application, the ax was brought down to the
watering-place the next day. The Indian who brought it back said, it was
left at his house in the night; but it was suspected, that himself was
the thief.
Mr. Banks having several times visited on the King of the island, and
given him some trifles that were very acceptable, he waited on him for
the last time on the 13th of January, and gratified him very much by a
present of a small quantity of paper. The King asked the reason why the
English ships did not touch at the island, as was formerly their custom;
when Mr. Banks attributed the omission to the scarcity of turtle, and
advised the King to breed buffaloes, sheep and cattle, for the
accommodation of his future visitants.
After a stay of ten days at Princes Island, during which they purchased
vegetables of various kinds, fowls, deer, turtle, &c. the anchor was
weighed, and the vessel once more put to sea.
We shall now proceed to a description of the island, which lies in the
western mouth of the Streight of Sunda. It is a small woody island, and
has been cleared only in very few places. Our India ships used to touch
at Princes Island to take in water, but they have omitted this practice
for some years since, on account, as it is said, of the water being
brackish; yet Captain Cook says it is exceeding good, if filled towards
the head of the brook.
The fowls which were purchased at this place cost about five-pence each;
the turtle three-farthings a pound, and other fish were proportionably
cheap; one hundred of the best cocoa-nuts cost only a dollar, and
pumpkins, pine-apples and other fruits, were equally cheap and plenty.
The natives profess the religion of Mahomet, and are so strict in the
observance of the feast called _Ramadan_, that they not only abstain
from food till the sun is down, but even from the chewing of betel. The
manners of these people are not unlike those of the Javanese; but they
are much more jealous of their wives: during the ten days that the
Endeavour lay here, only one woman was seen, and she ran away the moment
she was discovered.
The houses are constructed in the form of an oblong square: they are
built on pillars four feet above the ground, and well thatched with
palm-leaves, as a defence from the sun and rain: the flooring is of
bamboo canes, placed at a distance from each other, to admit the air:
these houses consist of four rooms, one of which is destined for the
reception of visitants, the children sleep in a second, and the two
others are allotted, the one for the purpose of cookery, and the other
for the bed-chamber of the owner and his wife. The residence of the King
of the island, and that of another person of great authority, has boards
on the sides, while the houses of all the inferior people have walls
made of the bamboo cane, slit into small sticks, and wrought across the
beams of the building, in the manner of a hurdle. The King of the island
is subject to the Sultan of Bantam.
Captain Cook represents the natives as very honest in their dealings,
with the single exception, of demanding more than double the sum they
intended to sell for: the goods of each sort which different persons
brought to market were all sold together, and the purchase-money divided
among the several contributors, in proportion to the quantity that each
had given in to the general stock. When they changed money, they gave
two hundred and forty Dutch doits for a Spanish dollar.
The natives speak a language which they call _Catta Gunung_, that is,
the language of the mountains, and they say, that their ancestors came
from the mountains of Java, where this language is spoken; that they
first settled at New Bay, where the tygers were so numerous, that they
could not live in safety, and therefore took up their residence on
Prince’s Island: all these people, however, are capable of conversing in
the Malay language.
At the time the Endeavour left Princes Island, her crew began to feel,
in all its force, the ill effects of the putrid air of Batavia; and soon
afterwards the ship was a mere hospital, filled with unhappy wretches,
sinking under the rage of fevers and dysenteries. In the space of six
weeks twenty-three persons died, exclusive of the seven which had been
buried at Batavia: these were nine seamen, the Corporal of the marines,
the ship’s Cook, two of the Carpenter’s crew, the Carpenter and his
Mate, a Midshipman, the old sail-maker, who was in perfect health when
all the rest were ill at Batavia, and his Mate, the Boatswain, Mr.
Monkhouse, a Midshipman, Mr. Sporing, who accompanied Mr. Banks, Mr.
Parkinson, draughtsman to that gentleman, and Mr. Green, the Astronomer.
After a passage in which nothing remarkable occurred, the ship was
brought to an anchor off the Cape of Good Hope, on the 15th of March
1771. The Captain repaired instantly to the Governor, who said, that
such refreshments as the country supplied, should be chearfully granted
him; on which a house was hired for the sick, who were to have their
board and lodging, on the payment of two shillings a day for each man.
At the time the Endeavour lay at anchor here, an English East Indiaman
sailed for the port of London, who had buried above thirty of her crew
while she was in India; and at that time had many others severely
afflicted with the scurvy; so that the sufferings of the crew of the
Endeavour, considering her long absence from England, is a circumstance
not at all to be wondered at.
We shall now proceed to a description of the Cape of Good Hope, in which
we shall only mention such particulars as are either wholly new, or such
as have been mis-represented by other writers. The land over the Cape is
mountainous, and totally barren; beyond these mountains the country is
covered with a light sand, which will not admit of cultivation: there
are indeed a few cultivated spots, but they are hardly more than a
thousandth part of the whole country. Provisions are brought to the Cape
from a distance nine hundred miles up the country, which is an evident
proof of its extreme sterility, notwithstanding what has been heretofore
written to the contrary. While Captain Cook lay here, a farmer came to
the Cape, bringing his young children with him, from a distance that
took him fifteen days journey; and on his being asked why he had not
left his children with some neighbour, he said, there was no inhabitant
within five days journey of his farm. There are no trees that are even
two yards in height, except in some plantations in the vicinity of Cape
town.
This town consists of near a thousand brick houses, the outsides of
which being generally plaistered, they have a very pleasing appearance.
There is a canal in the main street, with two rows of oak-trees on its
borders, which are in a more flourishing state than the other trees of
this country: the streets, which cross each other at right angles, are
very spacious and handsome. The inhabitants are chiefly Dutch, or of
Dutch extraction: the women are beautiful in a high degree, and possess
those blooming countenances which denote the most perfect health: they
are most of them mothers of many children, and Captain Cook says, they
are the best wives in the world.
The air of the Cape of Good Hope is so pure and salubrious, that a sick
person, who goes thither from Europe, whatever be his disorder, almost
always recovers his health in a little time; but those who bring
diseases with them from the East Indies, have not an equal chance of
recovery.
Although this country is naturally so barren, as scarcely to produce any
thing, yet the unceasing industry of its inhabitants has so effectually
combated the sparing hand of Nature, that there are few places where the
necessaries of life are more plentiful, and even what are generally
deemed luxuries, are by no means scarce. The constantia wine is known to
be excellent, but the genuine sort is made only at one particular
vineyard a few miles from the town. The gardens produce many sorts of
European and Indian fruits, and almost all the common kinds of
vegetables. The cultivated fields yield wheat and barley of equal
quality with that of the growth of England. The sheep of this country
have tails of a very extraordinary size, many of which weigh upwards of
a dozen pounds; the meat of this animal as well as of the ox, is very
fine food: the wool of the sheep is rather of the hairy kind, and the
horns of the black cattle spread much wider than those of England, while
the beast himself is handsomer and lighter made. The cheese has a very
indifferent flavour, but the butter is extremely good. The pork of this
country is nearly the same as that of Europe, and there are abundance of
goats, but the inhabitants do not eat their flesh. The country abounds
in hares, altogether like those of England; there are several species of
the antelope, a plenty of bustards, and two kinds of quails.
When a stranger arrives at the Cape, it is customary for him to board in
a private house, and he pays from two shillings to a crown a day,
according to the accommodations he expects. If he appears and behaves as
a gentleman, he is invited to the private entertainments which are given
by the more opulent of the inhabitants; and this cannot fail of being
the more acceptable, as there are no places of public diversion in the
country. Horses are here let to hire at six shillings a day, and coaches
at one pound four.
The Dutch company have a garden at the extremity of the high street,
which is more than half a mile in length, in the center walk of which
are a number of fine oak trees. A small part of this garden is covered
with botanical plants, but all the rest is allotted to the production of
the common vegetables for the kitchen: the whole is divided into squares
by the form of its walks, and each square is fenced in by oaks cut into
small hedges. There is a menagerie of beasts and birds, many of them
known in Europe, at the upper end of this garden; and among the rest is
the _Coe Doe_, a beast not less than a horse, which has those curious
spiral horns that have frequently found a place in the cabinets of the
curious.
The native inhabitants of this country are usually dressed in a sheep
skin thrown across the shoulders, and a little pouch before them, to
which is fixed a kind of belt, ornamented with little bits of copper,
and beads: round the waists of the women is a broad piece of leather,
and rings of the same round their ancles, to protect them from the
thorns, which grow in abundance all over the country; a few of them wear
a kind of shoe, made of the bark of a tree, but the major part of them
go barefooted: both sexes adorn themselves with bracelets and necklaces,
made of beads. None of these people reside at a less distance than four
days journey from Cape Town, except a number of the poorer sort, who
look after the cattle belonging to the Dutch farmers, and are employed
in various other menial offices. Their stature is about the same as that
of the people of England, from five to six feet in height; but scarce
any of them are corpulent: their skins are dark, but this is in a great
degree owing to their extreme indelicacy: their hair curls naturally,
and falls in ringlets of above six inches in length: they are singular
for their strength and agility.
Most of the Hottentots speak the Dutch language, without any thing
remarkable in their manner; yet, when they converse in their native
language, they frequently stop, and make a clucking with their tongues,
which has a most singular and ridiculous effect to the ears of a
stranger; and, exclusive of this clucking, their language itself is
scarcely sounded articulately.
These people are modest to the utmost degree of bashfulness, and, though
they are fond of singing and dancing, can hardly be prevailed on to
divert themselves with their favourite amusements before strangers: both
their singing and dancing are alternately quick and slow in the utmost
extreme.
Some of the Hottentots understand the art of melting and preparing
copper, with which they make plates, and wear them on their foreheads,
as an article of finery. They are also capable of making knives,
superior to those they can purchase of the Dutch, from whom they procure
the iron.
They have the art of making butter by shaking milk in the skin of a
beast: with this butter they anoint their skins; or, when they cannot
procure butter, they use the fat of the sheep. The principal people are
owners of immense herds of cattle; and these clothe themselves with the
skins of lions and other beasts, which are adorned with fringes,
elegantly designed.
The Hottentots are so dextrous in throwing stones, that they will hit a
mark not larger than a crown piece, at the distance of an hundred yards.
They are likewise expert in the use of arrows, and of the lance called
an Assagay, the points of which they poison, sometimes with the venom of
a serpent, and sometimes with the juice of particular herbs; so that a
wound received from either of these weapons is almost always mortal.
Exclusive of what is above recited, they met with nothing respecting
these people, but such particulars as have been previously mentioned by
various other voyagers, and which will of course be found in the
preceding volumes: we shall therefore accompany the ship in her voyage
to England.
On the 14th of April, 1771, the anchor of the Endeavour was weighed, and
she once more put to sea, but came to an anchor again before night near
Robin island. As a few vegetables were wanted, which they had neglected
to take in at the Cape, the Captain sent off a boat to the island; but,
when she reached the shore, some Dutch soldiers forbad her crew landing,
at the hazard of their lives; and the officer who commanded very
prudently returned to the ship. For some time they were puzzled to
account for this behaviour on the part of the Dutch; but it was at
length recollected, that the Dutch government at the Cape of Good Hope
had assigned this island for the reception of such offenders whose
crimes were not deemed worthy of death, where their slavery consists in
digging lime-stone, for such a number of years as are thought
proportionable to the heinousness of their offences: and that a ship
belonging to Denmark, which had buried most of her hands, had called at
this island, and taken on board a number of these criminals, in order to
navigate the vessel to Europe: hence the conduct of the Dutch soldiers
was easily accounted for.
The ship sailed again on the following day, when the master of her died,
having hastened his death by hard drinking, though, in other respects,
he left behind him an excellent character.
On Monday, May-day, they came to an anchor off the island of St. Helena,
and, as they proposed to remain three days, Mr. Banks employed the
interval in surveying every object that was thought worthy of notice.
The island of St. Helena rises out of the immense Atlantic ocean, is
about eighteen hundred miles from the coast of America, and twelve
hundred from that of Africa. It has the appearance of a huge mountain,
the foundation of which is probably at the center of the globe. It had
formerly volcanoes in several parts of it, as is evident from the
appearance of the earth and stones in many places; and it looks like a
cluster of rocks, bounded by precipices of immense height: as a vessel
sails along the coast, the cliffs perpend over her head so as to
threaten her instant destruction, and nothing in nature can be conceived
more awful than their appearance.
Close to the sea side stands the town, which had formerly a church of
very indifferent architecture, but it is now little better than a heap
of ruins, nor is the market house in a much better condition: most of
the houses are also constructed in a vile taste.
As this island is the property of the English East India Company, the
inhabitants are not suffered to carry on any trade for their own
emolument, but get their livelihood by selling the productions of the
island to the crews of the vessels which anchor there for a supply of
refreshments.
St. Helena is so happily situated, with regard to climate, that it
would, if properly cultivated, produce the trees, fruits, plants and
flowers, of all the different parts of the world. On the summit of the
highest ridges the cabbage-tree flourishes; in the parts below these
grow the gum-wood and red-wood, and in the vallies many of the plants of
the Indies, and almost all those of Europe; yet these several
productions will not grow but on the spots of ground peculiarly adapted
to each.
The only white inhabitants of the island are subjects of the King of
Great Britain: these employ slaves, who transport goods of all kinds
from place to place on their heads; and we are sorry to say, that the
inhumanity of our countrymen to these slaves is a disgrace to those who
profess the christian faith. There are a small number of horses at St.
Helena, but they are never employed in draught, there being no such
thing as a waggon or cart on the island, though in many places the land
is not so steep, but that such carriages might easily be drawn.
Ebony-trees are a natural production of the island of St. Helena, but
there have not been many of them within the memory of any person now
living there. Snails are found in abundance on the summits of the
highest mountains; but the other insects of the island are very few in
number.
On Saturday the 4th of May 1771, the Endeavour sailed from the road of
St. Helena, together with the Portland man of war, and several sail of
Indiamen. They kept company with the man of war and Indiamen till Friday
the 10th. But Captain Cook observing, that they were out-sailed by all
the other ships, and consequently imagining that some of them would
reach England before him, made signals to speak with the Portland, when
the Captain of that vessel came on board, and received from Captain Cook
a letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, together with a box, in which
were deposited the journals of many of the officers, and the ship’s log
books.
On the 23d they lost sight of all the ships they sailed in company with
from St. Helena, and in the afternoon of the same day, Mr. Hicks, the
first Lieutenant, died of a consumption, with which he had been
afflicted during the whole voyage.
No single occurrence worth recording happened from this time, till the
ship came to an anchor in the Downs, which was on the 12th of June
following.
Whoever has carefully read, and duly considered the wonderful protection
of this ship, in cases of danger the most imminent and astonishing,
particularly when encircled in the wide ocean with rocks of coral, her
sheathing beaten off, and her false-keel floating by her side, a hole in
her bottom, and the men alternately fainting at the pumps, and will yet
deny the existence of a _particular Providence_, and the most gracious
and merciful interposition of the Deity, in behalf of our adventrous
countrymen, will deserve some share of that censure, which the thinking
part of mankind have so liberally and justly bestowed on the Compiler of
the account of the Voyage of the ENDEAVOUR. There is a comfort in the
reflection that God is good, which can be felt only by those who
acknowledge his mercy, and adore his power.
ACCOUNT OF
MONS. DE BOUGAINVILLE’s
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD.
PERFORMED BY
ORDER OF THE FRENCH KING,
In the years 1766, 1767, 1768, 1769.
A settlement having been commenced for the French King, on Falkland’s
Islands[1], in the month of February 1764, the Spaniards demanded them
as their right, as an appendage to the continent of South America; and
France having allowed the propriety of the demand, Mons. Bougainville
was ordered to yield possession of the islands to the Spaniards.
[1] M. Bougainville every where calls these islands the _Isles
Malouines_; but we shall call them by the name of Falkland’s Islands,
which was given them by our countryman, Strong, in 1689.
In consequence of the orders he had received, he sailed from the port of
Mindin on the 15th of November 1766, having under his command the
frigate la Boudeuse--la Esmeralda, and la Liebre; two frigates belonging
to Spain, were to join him in the river de la Plata, to the commanding
officer of which he was to deliver the settlement; and the l’Etoile, a
French store-ship, was to carry him such provisions as were necessary
for the long voyage on which he was bound, and to meet him at Falkland’s
Islands: but the voyage was necessarily several months longer in
compleating than it might have been, on account, as will appear
hereafter, of the delay which prevented the l’Etoile from joining Mons.
Bougainville.
The Boudeuse had been at sea only two days when she encountered such a
violent storm of wind, as carried away the clue of the fore-sail, broke
the top-mast, and main-top-mast, and took off the head of the main-mast.
Thus situated, Mons. Bougainville found it necessary to put into Brest
to refit, and to make some necessary alterations in the stowage of his
ship, which was ill calculated, for withstanding the fury of those seas
he was to pass, and particularly so for the navigation of the seas round
Cape Horn.
And here a reflection will naturally arise, on that fatality, by which
those who have the appointment of naval equipments, almost always
destine for services of the most imminent danger, vessels totally
inadequate for the purpose. Hence arise orders and counter-orders, till
the proper season for performing the most hazardous parts of the voyage,
is lost in the necessary preparation for making it.
On the 5th of December Mons. Bougainville sailed from the harbour of
Brest, having on board the Prince of Nassau-Seighen, three gentlemen who
went as volunteers, eleven officers in commission; and warrant-officers,
seamen, soldiers, servants and boys, to the number of two hundred.
On the 17th they were in sight of the Salvages, a small flat island,
which at each end rises into a hillock: the next day they saw the Island
of Palma, and that of Ferro on the 19th. Mons. Bougainville was now
convinced of a great error in his reckoning, which he attributes to the
rapidity of the currents opposite the Streights of Gibraltar. Having
corrected his reckoning, he took a fresh departure, and arrived at Rio
de la Plata, without meeting with any thing worthy of notice.
On the evening of the 29th of January they had sight of Rio de la Plata,
but as the night was dark and tempestuous, they lay to, with the head of
the vessel towards the offing. The next morning they had a view of the
mountains of Maldonado, which, after a ship enters the Rio de la Plata,
are the first high lands seen to the north. At the Maldonados the
Spaniards have a small garrisoned town, in the vicinity of which are
picked up some beautiful transparent stones; and there is likewise a
gold mine near it, which has been worked for a few years past, but has
yielded little profit.
On the morning of the 31st the Boudeuse came to an anchor in the Bay of
Montevideo, where the two Spanish ships, which were to take possession
of Falkland’s Islands, had been at anchor for some weeks.
Don Philip Ruis Puente, the principal in command of the Spanish vessels,
having been appointed Governor of the islands which were to be
surrendered by the French, he accompanied Mons. Bougainville to Buenos
Ayres, to settle, with the Governor-general, the mode of making the
cession: and the Prince of Nassau-Sieghen attended them in this
expedition.
The gentlemen made the voyage in a schooner, but a contrary wind
preventing their passage by sea, they went on shore above the colony of
San Sacramento, and travelled over a prodigious extent of country, in
which there were no roads, and where the eye was their only guide.
During this expedition they slept in little hovels constructed with
leather, while the tygers howled round them on every side. Mons.
Bougainville particularly mentions the manner and the danger of their
passing the river St. Lucia, which is wide and deep, yet amazingly
rapid:--being placed in a long narrow canoe, one side of which was
beyond all proportion higher than the other, a horse was fastened on
each side the vessel, the master of which pulling off all his cloaths,
got into it, and supporting the heads of the horses above the surface of
the stream, drove them across it, in the best manner he was able, and,
with some difficulty, they stemmed the rapidity of the torrent. It is
necessary for travellers who pass this wild and extensive country to be
very careful in finding the fordable parts of the rivers; they usually
drive before them a considerable number of horses, in order to take
fresh ones as often as those they ride on are jaded.
[Illustration: _Monsieur de Bougainville Crossing the River S^t. Lucia
in a Canoe drawn by Horses_]
Monsieur Bougainville having transacted his business at Buenos Ayres,
returned to Montevideo on the 16th of February, and was followed in a
few days by the Spanish Governor, Don Puente. Some necessaries of
various kinds being taken on board, the vessels were prepared for
sailing to Falkland’s Islands.
Our author now gives a long account of the establishment of the
Spaniards in Rio de la Plata, of which we shall take no notice, because
similar accounts are to be found in a great number of volumes, some or
other of which are in the hands of almost every reader.
Our voyagers having caused a small vessel to be laden with cattle for
the use of the ship’s companies, they sailed in company, on the 28th of
February 1767, a pilot, acquainted with the coast of Falkland’s Islands,
having been previously put on board each of the Spanish ships; but this
day they were obliged to bring their vessels to an anchor, on account of
the thickness of a fog, which prevented their seeing land.
The winds now proving contrary, the ships remained at anchor the
following day; but as the current of the river ran strongly in their
favour, Mons. Bougainville sent to acquaint the Spanish commander, that
his vessel being too near the English sand-bank, off the isle of Flores,
he thought it would be proper to sail on the following day, even if the
wind should not change in their favour. To this the Spanish officer
replied, that his pilot refused to weigh the anchor till the wind became
fair and blew steady: on which Don Puente was acquainted, that the
anchor of the Boudeuse would certainly be weighed early the next
morning, and that she would either anchor more to the north, or ply to
the windward, waiting for the Spanish ships, unless they should be
unavoidably separated by the violence of the wind.
The small vessel laden with cattle had not come to an anchor during the
preceding night, nor was she seen any more during the voyage; but it was
afterwards learnt that she went back to Montevideo, after an absence of
three weeks from that place. The night had been so tempestuous, that all
the ships dragged their anchors, and in the morning the Spanish vessels
were observed with their main-yards lowered, and their top-masts handed:
the Boudeuse, however, got under sail, and got out of the river before
night, leaving the Spaniards still at anchor. Mons. Bougainville had
variable, but chiefly bad, weather till the 23d of the month, when he
came to an anchor in the Bay of Falkland’s islands, where the Spanish
vessels also anchored, on the day following. These last had suffered
extremely through the inclemency of the weather; the cabbin windows of
Don Puente’s ship had been broke by the violence of the waves, so that
the sea for some time poured into her in torrents; and a number of
cattle, destined for the use of the colony at Falkland’s Island, died on
the passage.
On the 1st of April Mons. Bougainville, in the name of the French king,
surrendered the island to Don Puente, who received it for his most
catholic Majesty, with the ceremony of hoisting the Spanish colours, and
the firing of guns from the ships and on shore: Mons. Bougainville then
read a letter, in which his sovereign granted leave to such of the
inhabitants as chose to continue their residence, to be under the
dominion of Spain: this offer was accepted by some, while others
embarked with the garrison, and were conveyed to Montevideo in the
Spanish ships. The whole expence of the French settlement, to the time
of its being delivered to the Spaniards, was six hundred and three
thousand livres; but as his most Catholic Majesty took the ships,
provisions, and all the stores of every kind, he reimbursed this sum to
France.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to make some historical remarks
respecting Falkland’s Islands, in which we shall trace him with all
possible fidelity. He says that, in the year 1502, when Americo
Vespucius was on his third voyage for the discovery of America, he
sailed along the northern coasts of the islands, and to him, therefore,
he allows the honour of being the first discoverer; yet he says that
Vespucious knew not whether what he saw was an island, or a part of the
main land. Gouin, a French commander, came to an anchor on these
islands, in the year 1700, as he was returning from a voyage into the
South Seas; but Gouin mistook them for Sebald’s isles, which lie very
near them, Falkland’s Islands being between those, and the island of
Beauchesne; so that a ship at anchor on the east side of Sebald’s isles,
is within sight of Falkland’s;--Besides Beauchesne’s description of what
he took to be Sebald’s, exactly answers to these; for he says there are
no woods, that the country is swampy, that there are many fresh-water
lakes and marshes on it, and that it abounds in ducks, snipes, wild
geese, and teals.
Mons. Bougainville justly observes, that Falkland’s islands have been
but little known, and ill described, till within a few years past. They
are commonly represented as being covered with woods; but this mistake
might very well happen in the accounts of those who only saw them from
on board a ship for what are taken for woods are tall rushes, which grow
very close together, and the stalk being dry to the height of five feet
from the ground, a large tuft springs from the top of it, so that their
number, and the manner in which they grow, form no ill resemblance of a
wood. Great part of the hills on the island are covered with heath,
while the rushes grow only on some small isles, and near the sea coast.
In the year 1594 Sir Richard Hawkins had sight of these islands, and
called them Hawkins’s Maiden-Land: he says he saw fires on them, and
that they were then inhabited: about the commencement of the present
century, a French ship, called the St. Louis, came to an anchor on this
coast, under the shelter of the isles of Anican, which are some small
islands, so called after the privateer of that name; but the commander
of the St. Louis did not think it worth his while to examine the
country: yet, Mons. Bougainville observes, that the navigators of all
nations have remarked how conveniently they are situated for affording
shelter and refreshment to vessels bound to the South-Seas.
France having come to a resolution of sending a colony to settle on
Falkland’s islands, Mons. Bougainville, towards the beginning of the
year 1763, made an offer to establish the settlement at his own expence,
with the assistance of two of his near relations, Mons. de Arboulin, and
Mons. de Nerville. This offer being accepted, the adventrous Frenchman
gave orders for the building and equipment of a vessel of twenty, and
another of twelve guns, the former of which was called the Eagle, and
the latter the Sphinx: and as soon as these vessels had taken in such
stores as were necessary for the voyage, and for making the settlement,
Mons. Bougainville, having previously engaged some acadian families,
embarked his officers, seamen and settlers, and sailed from the Port of
St. Malo, on the 15th of September, 1763.
In the course of the voyage he touched on the coast of Brazil, and at
Montevideo, at which last place he took a number of horned cattle and
horses on board, in order to stock the island to which he was destined.
On the 31st of January, 1764, Mons. Bougainville was within sight of
Sebald’s isles, and came to an anchor in a large bay on the eastermost
point of Falkland’s islands, on the third of February.
It was soon resolved to form the settlement on the coast of this Bay;
and Mons. Bougainville immediately began to take a survey of the island,
to learn what it produced, for the support and convenience of life. He
observes, that various kinds of water and land-fowl, and fish, were all
its edible productions: and that the reader already knows that there
grows no wood, either for firing, or other purposes; but this
deficiency, in Mons. Bougainville’s opinion, might be tolerably well
supplied by an excellent kind of turf, which was almost every where to
be found in great abundance.
On the first arrival of our adventurers, it was a sight not less
pleasing than astonishing, to behold the birds flock round them, with
evident curiosity, but without the least signs of timidity: these
harmless animals used to perch on those who were standing still, and
would at all times submit to be taken with the hand: but they very soon
learnt to be shy of the company of those who sought only their
destruction.
The colony consisted of nineteen men, five women, and three children;
and Mons. Bougainville having fixed on the spot for their residence,
they lost no time in erecting huts, which they covered with rushes, to
protect them from the inclemency of the weather. They likewise built a
magazine, and erected a small fort, in the center of which they raised
an obelisk, under which they had placed several pieces of money, and a
medal, on one side of which was the head of the French king, with the
following motto; _Tibi serviat ultima thule_; and on the other side of
the medal was an inscription, of which the following is a
translation.--“Settlement of the Isles Malouines, situated in 51 degrees
30 minutes of south latitude, 60 degrees 50 minutes west longitude, from
the meridian of Paris, by the Eagle frigate, Captain P. Duclos Guyot,
Captain of a fire-ship, and the Sphinx sloop; Captain F. Chenard de la
Giraudais, Lieutenant of a frigate, equipped by Louis Antoine de
Bougainville, Colonel of infantry, Captain of a ship, chief of the
expedition, G. de Nerville, Captain of infantry, and P. d’ Arboulin,
postmaster general of France: construction of a fort, and an obelisk,
decorated with a medallion of his Majesty Louis XV. after the plans of
A. L’Huillier, engineer and geographer of the field and army, serving on
this expedition; during the administration of E’. de Choiseul, Duke of
Stainville, in February 1764.”
Mons. de Bougainville having promised the settlers, that he would soon
bring them more companions, and give them farther assistance, his
relation, Mons. de Nerville, agreed to stay till his return from France,
as well to be an hostage for the performance of de Bougainville’s
promise, as to encourage the young colonists, by participating in every
hardship and danger to which they might be exposed, in a station so far
removed from all communication with the rest of mankind. In return for
Mons. de Nerville’s kind compliance with the wish of the settlers, he
was to be considered as their Governor.
On the 8th of April 1764, Mons. Bougainville weighed his anchor, and
sailed for Europe, having first taken possession of the islands, in the
name, and for the use of his most Christian Majesty.
In the month of January 1765, Mons. Bougainville again visited
Falkland’s Islands, where he found the settlers in good health, and
pleased with their situation. After he had debarked the stores which he
had brought for their use, he sailed to the Streights of Magellan, where
he took in timber and pallisadoes, and a number of young trees for
planting on Falkland’s Islands; which place he again left on the 27th of
April, when the whole number of colonists was only twenty-four.
While Monsieur de Bougainville was on the above mentioned expedition in
the Streights of Magellan, he saw the ships under Commodore Byron’s
command; the reader will recollect this circumstance, in the account of
Mr. Byron’s Voyage, related in the twenty-first page of the preceding
volume.
The colonists on Falkland’s Islands were encreased to about one hundred
and fifty, by a number of fresh settlers, which sailed from France in
the Eagle, in the year 1765. This ship was accompanied by the Etoile
store-ship, which carried provisions to the island. By this time the
Governor, and an officer who took care of the stores, had good houses
built of stone, and the rest of the colonists were lodged in commodious
huts, having walls composed of sods of earth. With the wood which Mons.
Bougainville had brought from the Streights of Magellan, they had built
several small vessels, adapted to examine the coasts of the island; and
three magazines were by this time erected, in which to deposit the
public and private stores; several kinds of grain which had been brought
from France grew very well, and promised a sufficient encrease; and some
train-oil had been made, and seals-skins turned, by the settlers, with
which the Eagle was loaded, and returned to France.
In the year 1766, when an English colony had settled at Port Egmont,
Captain Macbride, of the Jason frigate, visited the French settlement,
and, to use Mons. Bougainville’s own words, “pretended that those parts
belonged to his Britannic Majesty, threatened to land by force, if he
should be any longer denied that liberty, visited the Governor, and
sailed away again the same day.”
The above, according to Bougainville’s account, was the state of
Falkland’s islands, when the French surrendered them to Spain; and he
pretends, that the prior claim of Spain was confirmed by such surrender
of those who had made the first settlement: and perhaps there might be
some force in this reckoning, if the prior claim of Spain was founded in
justice, and warranted by the laws which have hitherto directed the
discoverers of unknown countries. An Englishman, however, will be glad
to see this argument stated in its proper light, by which it will
appear, that the right to the possession of these islands, is
undoubtedly vested in the Crown of these realms.
The plain state of facts, then, is as follows: as early as the voyage
under Sir Thomas Cavendish, in the year 1592, Captain Davis had sight of
these islands: they were seen a second time, in 1594, as
before-mentioned by Sir Richard Hawkins, who gave them the name of
Hawkins’s Maiden Land: the third person who saw them was the Dutch
voyager Sebald de Waert, who called them Sebald’s Isles, and under this
name they are laid down in the Dutch charts. In the year 1683 they were
seen by Dampier, and, in 1689, by Strong, who gave them their present
English name of Falkland Islands, which Dr. Halley, the celebrated
astronomer, adopting, they are now so called in all the maps and charts
of this country. During the reign of William and Mary, the English
privateers often saw these islands, whereas, according to Mons.
Bougainville’s own account, the first Frenchman who ever saw them was
Gouin, no longer ago than the year 1700. From this state of the evidence
it does not appear, that the Spaniards visited them at all, and that the
French were the last visitors; yet would Mons. Bougainville have his
readers believe, that the Spaniards have the prior claim to their
possession, and that this claim has been ratified by the French!--This
reasoning may sound admirably well in the ears of the slaves of two
arbitrary monarchs, but will be equally ridiculed and contemned by every
sensible subject of our happier, because limited, monarchy.
Monsieur Bougainville now proceeds to give an account of the natural
history of, and other particulars respecting, Falkland’s Islands, which,
he says, are the result of the observations of his kinsman, Mons. de
Nerville, who resided at the settlement three years. The picture our
ingenious voyager gives of the first appearance of the islands is very
striking, and his arguments for and against settling them are very
conclusive. On their first arrival not an object struck their view,
except the commodiousness of the port in which the ship lay, which could
tempt them to take up their residence on so inhospitable a shore. The
land was in many places broke in upon by the sea; the mountains,
unclothed with wood, had the most barren appearance; the fields looked
dreary for want of houses and inhabitants; an universal silence reigned,
except when the howling of some sea-monster disturbed the solemn
stillness; while a dull and gloomy sameness of appearance added horror
to the whole picture.
Discouraging as this scene appeared, our adventurers knew that all would
yield to time and diligence, and that the labour of the industrious
would not go unrequited: indeed some consolation arose in their breasts,
on viewing the place in a more favourable light. The climate had that
kind of temperature likely to afford health, strength, and long life,
and was therefore preferable to the noxious air of those regions where
the sickening inhabitant faints under the scorching heat of the vertical
sun: the island produced a number of plants, admirable in the cure of
the scurvy, and other disorders incident to the sailor’s life. The fish
and the birds were most exquisitely delicious, and there were amphibious
animals in immense numbers, while there were none of the fierce or the
poisonous kind. Cascades and rivulets fell from the mountains, which at
the same time sheltered the fisherman from the violence of the winds, so
that he could sport or labour in the spacious bay, in perfect security:
meadows of an immense extent promised constant pasturage for any number
of flocks and herds, which might feed at pleasure, undisturbed by any
tyrant lord of the soil. These various advantages, in the opinion of our
adventurers, were sufficient to recompence them for the dangers and
fatigue of the voyage, and a pledge for the full reward of their future
labours.
The situation of Falkland’s Islands is between fifty-one and fifty-two
degrees and a half of south latitude, and sixty-five degrees and a half
of west longitude from Paris. From the entrance of the Streights of
Magellan, and from the coast of Patagonia, their distance is about 250
miles.
The harbours are large, and well defended by small islands most happily
disposed; and even the smallest vessels may ride in safety in the
creeks: while fresh water is easily to be obtained, as the small rivers
which descend from the mountains discharge themselves into the sea. The
tides do not rise and fall at any stated times, but depend on the force
with which the wind agitates the waves of the sea; it was, however,
observed, that just before high water, the sea rises and subsides, with
a quick motion, three times within the space of fifteen minutes and that
at the full of the moon, and during the equinoxes and solstices, this
motion is much greater than at any other time.
Those winds that blow from between the south and west, and the north and
west points, prevail more than others but in general the winds vary as
in most other countries. In summer time the winds usually blow from some
point between the north-west and south-west. It is remarkable, that
these winds rise with the rising sun, encrease in force as the sun
advances to the meridian, blow most violently just at noon, decrease
again with the declining sun, and totally cease about the time of its
setting. The tides also frequently add to the violence of these winds,
and not unfrequently change their direction.
The blowing of the winds in winter is a certain indication of the
weather. If they come from the south-east, they are not so violent as
the summer winds from the same quarter; but they are accompanied with
slight fogs. When they blow between the south and west points, hoar
frost, hail and snow, are the certain consequences; and the weather is
wet and foggy, when they come from the points between the north and the
west. The snow which comes with the south and west winds is but small in
quantity, and commonly disappears from the ground in a day or two,
except what lodges on the summits of the high mountains, where it will
remain about two months. The running streams are never frozen, and the
lakes and stagnate pools have seldom been covered with ice strong enough
to bear the weight of a man two days together. In the spring and autumn
there are slight hoar frosts, which being changed to a kind of dew by
the warmth of the sun, are rather nutrimental than prejudicial to the
vegetable productions. There is seldom any thunder or lightning, nor is
the climate hot or cold in any extraordinary degree. Throughout the year
the nights are, in general, star-light, serene, and fair; and, upon the
whole, the climate is very favourable to the constitution.
The fresh water of these islands is extremely good, and in great plenty:
the beds of some of the rivers are a kind of tuft, which gives a
yellowish cast to the water, yet does not affect its taste; but the
bottom of most of the rivers is either sand or gravel.
The depth of the soil in the vallies is more than sufficient for the
purposes of plowing; but, before our adventurers could proceed to
cultivation, they were obliged to extract the roots of plants, which
every where interfered and choaked up the ground for near a foot deep:
these roots they dried and burnt, and they then made a rich manure for
the ground from which they had been cleared. Under the first land is a
layer of black earth, ten inches or more in depth; under that again a
yellow soil, beneath which are stones and slate; but these stones are
not found on the little adjacent islands. The sea-coast is, in most
places, composed of stones, which are very fit for the purposes of
building; and there are beds of a hard fine grained stone, in several
spots on the island; likewise another kind of stones, in which are
particles of talc. Our settlers found a kind of stone which split in
pieces easily, and with which they made grind-stones, to give an edge to
their instruments. In the quarries they met with a stone of a yellowish
hue, which, when first taken out, was so soft as to be cut with a knife;
but it soon grew hard when exposed to the open air. The island likewise
yeilded earth fit for making bricks and potters-ware, and plenty of sand
and clay.
In many parts of the country there are marshy places, which produce a
sort of rushes with sharp points, the remains of the roots of which
being continually wasting, form the turf that was used for firing, which
burnt exceeding well, and had nothing offensive in its smell.
A plant of the gramen kind grows on a stalk which has a sweetish
flavour, and is extremely nutrimental for cattle, who like it better
than any other kind of pasturage. This plant flourishes on the
sea-coasts, and on the little isles, where it bends till the stalks
unite, forming a kind of harbour, to which the sea-lions and the seals
occasionally retreat. Our adventurers, in several excursions, found
these natural built houses, a very agreeable defence against the
inclemency of the weather, and the more so, as the dry leaves which had
fallen off formed a bed, by no means to be despised.
The above-mentioned plant is the largest that grows on the island, which
likewise produces many shrubs that were very useful in heating ovens,
and other purposes of firing. A kind of heath, which grows in great
plenty, bears a red fruit, which is eaten by the fowls and birds.
A plant was discovered which resembles a shrub, but having been tasted,
it was thought fit for the brewing of beer: happily our colonists were
supplied with malt and molasses, to which they added the beer-plant, and
were enabled at all times to brew a very wholesome kind of spruce beer,
which was an admirable specific for the scurvy. This plant was likewise
infused in water, in which those who had contracted any illness, while
out at sea, bathed themselves, and it was found to be a fine
restorative: when pressed, it yeilded a mealy substance, of a fragrant
smell, and a glutinous nature: the leaves of this plant are small, of a
clear bright green, and dentated.
Other vegetables in abundance were found, which were used as
antiscorbutics; particularly water-cresses, sorrel, wild parsley, a kind
of maiden-hair, and a species of celery.
But the most extraordinary vegetable production of Falkland’s Islands,
is a kind of resinous gum-plant, of which we shall speak more
particularly, as it is wholly unknown in these parts of the globe.
Though this is called a plant, it is without leaves, branches, or any
apparent stalk and, except in colour, which is that of a bright green,
it more resembles a lump of earth rising from the common surface of the
ground. It does not grow to the height of more than eighteen inches, and
its breadth in different plants is from two feet to two yards and
upwards: the smaller plants have the form of an hemisphere, and their
circumference is regular; but when they come to the full size, they
terminate in irregular bunches and hollows: there are drops of a tough
yellow matter, as big as a pea, on different parts of its surface, which
smell like turpentine. Mons. Bougainville having cut this plant close to
the ground, found that it arose from a stalk, from which grew an immense
number of shoots, consisting of leaves resembling stars, laying one
within the other. The outsides of these shoots, which are exposed to the
air, are green, and the insides white: they contain a viscid milky
juice, which is likewise found in the roots and the stalk. The roots
extending horizontally, frequently produce fresh shoots at a distance,
so that there is no instance of one of these plants being found alone.
The resin of this plant was found to be a good medicine for the cure of
slight wounds; but this resin was often washed away by the rains, or
wasted by the influence of the air; yet, however contradictory it may
appear, it would not dissolve except in spirits: some of the seeds were
brought to Europe, in order to attempt the cultivation of so singular a
curiosity in the vegetable world.
The island on which our colonists had taken up their residence is
divided from east to west by a chain of hills, to the south of which
they found another plant, not unlike the resinous gum-plant, which,
however, did not yield any resin, but produced beautiful yellow flowers;
neither was it of so firm a texture, nor was its green of the same
shade; yet, in other respects, the resemblance was very strong. On the
hills was found a species of Maiden-hair, which grew to a great height,
and the leaves of it were shaped like the blade of a sword. The hills
likewise abounded with various kinds of plants, which had the appearance
of holding a middle station between stones and vegetables. It was
apprehended, that these might have been successfully used in dying, and
our colonists proposed to have made the experiment if they had remained
longer on the island.
The place produces flowers in a considerable variety, but only one of
them has any smell, which is like that of a tuberose; this flower is
perfectly white. A true violet was seen, which was of a regular light
yellow colour.
A fruit was found, of the size of a pea, which received the name of the
lucet, from its resemblance to the North American fruit of that name:
its colour is white, but the side which is exposed to the sun changes to
a red: it has the smell of orange blossoms, and a very agreeable
flavour: its branches, which creep along the ground, produce leaves of
dark green, which are round and shining, and these leaves infused into
milk give it a delicious taste: the flowers grow in large numbers on the
borders of lakes, and the plant delights in a moist soil. Besides the
lucet only one other fruit was found, which grows on long branches, in
the same manner as the strawberry, but it has the appearance of a
mulberry, which name it received, and its leaves are like those of the
hornbeam.
Our colonists found but few sea-plants which they could apply to any
use; but all the coast of the harbour was lined with sea-weeds, which
were serviceable in breaking the force of the waves in stormy weather.
Many kinds of coralines, of various beautiful colours, and a great
number of curious shells and spunges were washed on shore by the force
of the tides. Among the shells were the smooth and striated muscle,
scallops, whelks, and a bivalve shell, of a very singular kind, named
_la Poulette_.
Sea lions and seals are the only amphibious animals found in these
parts; but there are great varieties of fish on the coasts, scarce any
of which are known in Europe. It sometimes happens that the whales,
getting too near the shore, are stranded in the bays, where their
remains have been seen. Bones of great magnitude have been found far up
the country, where the force of the waters could not have conveyed them,
which Mons. Bougainville deems a proof that the soil is encreased, or
the sea diminished.
The only quadruped found on Falkland’s island is of a species between
the fox and the wolf, and our author therefore calls him the wolf-fox:
the tail of this animal is more bushy than that of the wolf, and he
lives in a kennel which he digs in the ground, on the downs by the
sea-side. At one time of the year the wolf-fox is so lean as to appear
almost starved, from whence it is imagined that he fasts for a
considerable time: he is about as large as a sheep-dog, and barks very
much like one, only that his yelp is not so loud. He subsists
principally on wild fowl, in search of which he travels in such a direct
line from one day to another, that when our adventurers first beheld his
track, they imagined that the island was inhabited, and that the natives
had made the path. Mons. Bougainville makes it a matter of wonder how
the wolf-fox can have been conveyed to these islands, without
considering, that land-animals having got on large pieces of ice, which
being broken by the sea, they have frequently been conveyed to places
very remote from those of their first residence. The circumstance of ice
so broken from the shore is not uncommon on the coast of Greenland.
These islands and their coasts produce land and water-fowls in
incredible numbers, many of which are the prey of falcons, hawks, eagles
and owls; while the eggs and the young birds are destroyed by the
wolf-fox.--The smaller fish are destroyed by the whales, the amphibious
animals, and the voracious birds, some of which are constantly flying
close over the surface of the waters, while others perch themselves on
the rocks to watch the event.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a description of such birds as were
found on the islands, which could be applied to any kind of use;
omitting those that could not be rendered serviceable to the colonists.
The swan is perfectly white, except its feet and its neck, the former of
which are of a flesh-colour, and the latter as black as jet.
Of wild geese there are four kinds, only one of which feeds on dry
ground. It has very high legs, and a neck of great length: its flight is
much more free than that of the English goose; it walks with equal ease,
and does not cackle like the common goose. The feathers of the male are
white except on the wings, which have a mixture of ash-colour and black:
the wings of the female are of various colours; and its body is yellow.
It seldom lays more than six eggs. The flavour of these birds is
agreeable, and they were found to be very nutritious: exclusive of those
which are hatched on the island, large flocks fly thither with a
westerly wind which blows in the autumn, so that they were generally to
be taken in great abundance, and formed a principal part of the
subsistence of the settlers. Those which came in the autumn were easily
known from those resident on the island, by their not being shy.
The other three kinds are of various colours; yellow, white, black, and
ash-colour; they are not by far so beautiful as those above described:
and as they live entirely on fish, their flesh acquires a disagreeable
taste; one of these three species seldom rises from the surface of the
water, and is almost constantly making a very disagreeable noise. A soft
thick down, either grey or white, grows under the feathers of all these
geese, as it does likewise under those of the swan.
The rivers and ponds of Falkland’s islands abound in teals of two
species, and two of wild ducks: of the latter some are perfectly white,
and others totally black, but in other respects they resemble those of
England and France. These birds are all exquisite fine food, and to be
procured in any numbers. One kind of the teal is very small; but the
other is as large as the duck, and its bill is blue. The bellies of some
of them are also covered with feathers of a flesh-colour.
The island produces a bird which Mons. Bougainville calls the Diver,
but, from the description he gives of it, it is conjectured to be the
Grebe, which abounds on the lake of Geneva, and of the skin of which the
most elegant muffs and tippets are made. Of these Divers there are two
kinds, of which the most plentiful has brown feathers, with no other
variation than that the feathers on the belly are of a somewhat lighter
colour than those on the back. The belly of the other kind is white, and
the back grey; and the feathers on the belly are very thick, shining and
soft. The eyes of these birds are as bright as rubies, and are encircled
with a ring of white feathers. The female hatches only two young birds
at a time, which she carries on her back, not subjecting them to the
coldness of the water, till feathers have taken place of the down with
which they are hatched. The toes of this bird are thin, and of a green
colour, and being round towards the claw, they are not unlike the leaves
of some plants: their feet are not webbed, as is common among
water-fowl, but their toes are separate, having a strong membrane on
each side.
The colonists gave the name of Saw-bills to two kinds of birds which
bore a great similitude to each other, the chief difference consisting
in their size, and in the bellies of most of them being white, while a
few were observed to have brown feathers on the belly: the feathers on
the rest of the body are of a dark blue, as soft as silk, and grow very
close together. Their feet are webbed and flesh coloured, and their
bills pointed: they lay their eggs on the rocks, where great numbers of
them live together; and they subsist on fish, thousands of which they
destroy. Our settlers not only ate the eggs of these birds, but
frequently killed many scores of them at a time, and their flesh was
found to be excellent food. They had so little apprehension of being
catched, that it was an easy matter to knock them down with a stick, and
in this manner they were usually taken. A bird called by the Spaniards
_Quebrantahuessos_, which measures more than two yards from the
extremity of its wings, destroys the saw-bills. This bird of prey has a
long bill, with two hollow tubes of the same kind of substance as the
bill, and its feet are webbed: some of the seamen called this bird the
Albatross, but it differs considerably from the common bird of that
name, nor is it an easy matter to determine precisely on its species,
from the imperfect account which Mons. Bougainville has given of it.
Gulls, mews, and terns, of different beautiful plumage, served to direct
our colonists what was the proper time for taking of pilchards. These
birds, flying in large flocks over the surface of the water, dart on the
pilchard and swallow it; presently they catch another of these fish, and
then they disgorge the one which had been previously swallowed, and so
on. When the pilchards are not in season, they feed on various other
sorts of small fish. The eggs of these birds were found in great
abundance upon the leaves of a plant, on the borders of the marshes, and
they proved to be very good eating.
Three kinds of penguins breed on the island, one of these is a
remarkably grand and elegant bird, the belly of which is a clear white,
the back a kind of blue, and it has a ruff round its neck near the head,
of a bright yellow, which descending towards the belly, separates the
white feathers from the blue ones; these birds do not live together in
numbers, but seek the most quiet and retired places of abode. One of
them being caught, with an intention of being brought to France, soon
grew so tame, that it followed the person who fed it; its food was
bread, fish and flesh; but there was something more wanting for its
sustenance, for it gradually lost its fatness till it died. The second
kind of penguin answers to the description of that bird in Anson’s
voyage[2]. The third kind of penguins lay their eggs among the high
cliffs of the rocks, where they reside together in immense numbers,
never seeking that solitude of which the first kind are so fond. They
are much smaller than the others, and were named hopping penguins, from
their method of moving, which is very much like hopping; they have
gold-coloured feathers, which form a kind of eye-brows, and a tuft of
the same colour, which they raise when they are displeased. This bird
has a very chearful look, and its general colour is a deep yellow.
[2] This description will, of course, be found when we come to give an
account of that voyage.
At different times, but not frequently, three kinds of petrels were seen
by our adventurers. These birds build their nests on the sea-coasts,
where their young were sometimes found, covered with down. One sort of
them is quite white, their bills red, and not unlike a pigeon; a second
sort is larger, and the third smaller than the pigeon; and these two
sorts have white feathers on the belly, while every other part of the
body is black.
Eagles were also seen of three different species, two of which are
black, with white and yellow feet, and the other is of a dull white: all
these subsist on snipes, and other small birds, which they seize every
opportunity to destroy.
Egrets, a species of the heron, were frequently seen on the island: they
make a disagreeable noise, not much unlike the barking of a little dog;
and they never take any food till towards the evening.
Two kinds of the thrush came regularly to the island in the autumnal
months, one of which was of the same colour as the European thrush; and
the other yellow, except on the belly, which was spotted with black.
There was a third kind of thrush, which lived on the island throughout
the year, the feathers on the belly of which are of a bright red: this
was called the Red-bird, and though Mons. Bougainville ranks it among
the thrushes, it is probably no other than the red-breast of America.
A bird which they called the Sea-pie, was constantly seen on the coasts,
the feet of which were white, the bill red, and the feathers black and
white. This bird whistles a kind of note, which the colonists found it
easy to imitate, and by that means they came near enough to catch them
without much trouble: they subsist on shrimps, which they pick up after
the ebbing of the tide.--Such is Mons. Bougainville’s description of the
sea-pie; but if it be the true bird of that kind, oysters form a part of
its subsistence; for when the tide is out, these fish are left on the
sand, and the sea-pie, forcing open the shell with his bill, swallows
the oyster; whence he is also called oyster-catcher.
Great numbers of curlews, the same as those of Europe, were constantly
seen in the summer; and snipes of the European kind were found in
abundance. It is easy to shoot these birds, as they fly in a regular
manner. At the time when they are breeding, they ascend to a great
height, and having sung some time in the air, they drop at once into
their nests, which are built on the ground, in the open field, where it
is most free from grass or other herbage, so that these nests are very
easily found: the snipes are excellent food if dressed towards the
decline of the year; but in the breeding season they are lean, and not
so fit to eat.
The amphibious animals of Falkland’s islands are seals and sea-lions,
which having been before-mentioned, and being described in many books of
voyages, we shall only add, that they frequently travel in very numerous
companies three or four miles up the country, to feast on the herbs, and
repose themselves in the warmth of the sun.
Of the fish which were found on the coasts of Falkland’s islands, one
that was taken in the greatest plenty was called the Mullet, from the
likeness it bears to the European fish of that name: the colonists dried
many of these, which were full a yard in length: the seals prey on these
fish whenever they can catch them; but, by a natural instinct, they are
taught to avoid these voracious enemies, by sheltering themselves in
holes, among slimy ground, on the banks of the rivers, and in these
places they were frequently taken. A fish called the _gradeau_, about
twelve inches in length, was found in great abundance; and another,
named the _sardine_, was found only at the commencement of the winter
season. Some white porpoises were taken in the bays, when the weather
was fair, and some eels in those cavities of the rocks which were filled
with water. A fresh water fish was found, about the size of a trout,
without scales, the colour of which was green. Many smaller fish were
catched with the hook and line, among them was one species, the head of
which resembled that of a pike, and it had no scales: a few soals were
found; and Mons. Bougainville is of opinion, that a greater number of
those, and many other different kinds of fish, might have been procured,
if there had been hands sufficient to have constantly spared a proper
number to attend the sea-fishery. The shell-fish found at this place
were muscles, a very small kind of shrimp, a crab, the feet of which
were blue, and a kind of cray-fish, or prawn, the colour of which was
naturally red, without boiling: but our author says, these were only
taken through curiosity, as their taste was much inferior to those
European fish which are nearly of the same species.
The above is a faithful detail of the natural history of Falkland’s
islands, as far as it could be learnt by the French settlers, during a
residence of three years; if they had continued longer in the country,
there is no doubt but that their discoveries would have been greater,
and their account more accurate: from such as it is, however, it will
probably be thought, by the English reader, that these islands are by no
means so barren and inhospitable a spot, as our ministerial writers took
the pains to represent them, as soon as it was known, that our people in
power had formed the disgraceful resolution of permitting the prior
claim of England to this extensive country, to yeild to the imperious
demand of the haughty Spaniards.
It must, indeed, appear evident to the unprejudiced view of the
intelligent reader, that these islands might, in the course of a few
years, be made a very valuable possession: as they abound in fowl and
fish of various useful kinds, while their amphibious animals, the
sea-lions and seals, would yeild a quantity of grease and train-oil,
which might make no inconsiderable articles of commerce; and what
astonishing crops of wheat, barley, and every kind of European grain
might not be raised on a tract of land that is many hundred miles in
extent! It is true the islands do not naturally produce any trees; but
it would be easy to carry thither the seeds of some, and young trees of
other kinds; and there is no doubt, but that they would flourish in a
country situated, with regard to the south pole, nearly as Ireland is
with regard to the north.
As true Englishmen, we cannot help expressing a wish that the day may
yet arrive, when some Statesman of sense and spirit may re-urge and
insist on the right of Great Britain, to the possession of Falkland’s
islands; The reader will excuse this digression, and prepare to attend
Mons. Bougainville in the course of his voyage.
After waiting at these islands till the 2d of June 1767, in expectation
of the Etoile store-ship, and finding that she did not arrive, Mons.
Bougainville considered, that as his vessel would hold no more than six
months provisions, and that he had only two on board, it would be an act
of rashness to attempt the crossing the great pacific ocean alone; he
therefore resolved to steer to Rio Janeiro, at which place he had
appointed the Etoile to join him, in case any unforeseen accident should
prevent her reaching Falkland’s islands before he left the harbour of
that place.
They had fine weather from the 2d till the 20th of June, on which day
they had sight of the mountains on the main land of Brasil; and they saw
the entrance of Rio Janeiro on the day following. A number of
fishing-boats being observed near the shore, Mons. Bougainville hoisted
Portuguese colours, and ordered a cannon to be fired; on which a boat
put off to the ship, and a pilot was engaged to conduct her into the
road.
The coast of this country is broken by a number of small hills, which
serve to give an agreeable variety to the prospect. The country is
rather mountainous, and well clothed with woods.
The ship having arrived off the Port of Santa Cruz, a Portuguese officer
was sent to enquire the reason of her sailing into it; on which Mons.
Bougainville sent one of his officers to acquaint the Viceroy of the
Brasils, with the motives for his touching there, and to enquire whether
if he should salute the fort, the compliment would be returned.
The answer which the French officer received from Count d’Acunha, marks
that singular haughtiness and arrogance, for which some of the
Portuguese Governors are not a little famous:--the Count said, that when
a person bowed to another whom he might casually meet in the street, he
was not previously certain that his compliment would be returned, and
that if Mons. Bougainville should fire his guns by way of salute, he
(the Viceroy) had then to consider what was proper to be done. As this
answer was by no means satisfactory to Mons. Bougainville, he, with that
spirit of pride becoming a gentleman and an officer, disdained to fire a
single gun.
About the same time a canoe was dispatched from the Captain of the
Etoile, to inform Mons. Bougainville of the safe arrival of that vessel,
which now lay in the port. The Commander, Mons. de la Giraudais, sent
word, that instead of leaving France in the month of December, various
accidents had combined to detain him two months beyond that time: that
when he had been three months at sea, his rigging was so greatly
damaged, and his vessel admitted so much water, that he was obliged to
make the harbour of Montevideo, whence he sailed for his present
station, and had come to an anchor but a few days before Mons.
Bougainville’s arrival.
The Etoile had at this time salt provisions sufficient to supply both
the vessels for almost a year and a half; but as her stock of bread and
legumes was insufficient for the consumption of more than seven weeks,
Mons. Bougainville resolved on sailing to Rio de la Plata, to take in a
stock of those articles, as neither flour, wheat, nor biscuit could be
purchased at Rio Janeiro.
On the 22d of June 1767, Mons. Bougainville and his officers paid a
visit to the Viceroy of the Brasils, which was returned three days
afterwards on board the Boudeuse; when the Viceroy gave permission for
the purchase of a sloop, which our adventurers imagined might be very
serviceable during the long voyage they proposed to make. The Chaplain
of the Etoile having been murdered, some days before the arrival of the
Boudeuse, under the windows of the Viceroy’s palace, that gentleman
promised that he would endeavour to find out, and severely punish, the
perpetrators of the horrid deed; but Mons. Bougainville complains much
of his remissness in the execution of this necessary piece of justice.
The Viceroy, contrary to his usual custom, continued to behave with
politeness to the French officers, for several days after this visit;
and acquainted them, that he proposed to honour them with an elegant
collation in bowers of orange-trees and jasmine, on the banks of the
river; and he actually gave orders, that a box at the opera should be
assigned for their reception. Here, says our author, a band of mulatoes
performed the best pieces of metastasio, while the compositions of the
greatest geniuses Italy ever produced, were “executed by an Orchestra,
which was under the direction of a hump-backed Priest, in his
canonicals.”
We cannot avoid making a remark on the illiberal and ungentleman-like
manner in which Monsieur Bougainville recites this part of his
narrative; for it would be in a high degree ridiculous to suppose that
the Priest, because he had the misfortune to be crooked, should be, by
that circumstance, the less qualified to conduct a band; nor can we see,
if the works represented were, as our author calls them, _divine_, the
great impropriety of their being under the direction of a Priest, nor of
that Priest’s being dressed in the habit of his order. The French are
ambitious of being accounted the best bred people in the world; they
claim a kind of exclusive right to politeness; but they are only the
smugglers and monopolizers of that commodity, to the injury of the fair
traders, the English, the Scots, the Hibernians, whose open sincerity,
and manly freedom of behaviour, gives the lie to the French assumption
of a superior gentility. It is evident, from many instances in Mons.
Bougainville’s voyage, that a Frenchman can, when he pleases, be guilty
of a savage illiberality of conduct, that would disgrace the untutored
boor of the wilds of Siberia, or the still more uncultivated savage of
the uncivilized parts of America.
At this time there lay in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro, a French ship,
called the Morning Star, and a Spanish man of war, named the Diligent;
and, while the Viceroy behaved with all imaginable politeness to the
Frenchman, he had artfully protracted the stay of the Spaniard no less
than eight months, during all which time her Commander had not been able
to procure the articles necessary for the repair of his vessel, and
without which she could not proceed on her voyage. In this dilemma, Don
Francesco de Medina, Captain of the Diligent, applied to Mons.
Bougainville, for the assistance of his carpenters and caulkers, who
were immediately sent, both from the Boudeuse and the Etoile.
The complaisance with which the Viceroy treated the gentlemen on board
the French vessels, surprised the Spaniards, who told them, that they
must not long expect so great a share of his favour; and they had soon
reason to be convinced, that the prediction was founded in truth; for
though the Viceroy had permitted Mons. Bougainville to purchase a sloop,
and he had actually agreed for one, his Excellency thought proper to
forbid the delivery of it; and notwithstanding they had contracted with
this tyrannical Viceroy for the purchase of some timber from the royal
Dock-yards, he afterwards changed his mind, and would not let them have
it. He even went so far as to refuse Mons. Bougainville, and the
gentlemen on board his ships, permission to lodge in a house near the
town, while the Boudeuse was repairing, notwithstanding the owner of the
house had consented to accommodate the French officers.
Mons. Bougainville, piqued at these repeated instances of the Viceroy’s
want of good manners, and his total inattention to the common rights of
humanity, determined to pay him a visit, to remonstrate with him on the
glaring impropriety of his conduct: taking with him therefore two of his
officers, he repaired to the house of the Viceroy, who was agitated with
the most furious passion the moment Mons. Bougainville began to speak,
and commanded him to leave the house; this, however, he refused to do,
but kept his seat for some time, even after the Viceroy had called his
guards, who, with more prudence than their master had shewn, neglected
to obey his summons, and the French gentlemen left the house, without
seeming to have caused any disturbance. Not long after their departure,
an additional number of guards were placed round the palace, and orders
were issued, that if any Frenchman should be seen in the streets after
the sun was down, he should be taken into custody. The Viceroy likewise
commanded the Captain of the French ship named the Morning Star, to quit
his present situation, and anchor his vessel under the fort of
Villagahon, which order was complied with on the following day.
One of the Portuguese officers was exiled, and another imprisoned,
because they had behaved with civility to Mons. Bougainville; and it was
easy to foresee, that such of the inhabitants of the place as traded
with the French, would experience the consequences of the Viceroy’s
indignation; every preparation was therefore made to quit a place, which
the tyranny of the count de Acunha had rendered so disagreeable. The
Captain of the Spanish man of war supplied Mons. Bougainville with
timber proper for the repair of his ship, and an inhabitant of Rio
Janeiro privately sold him a number of planks, which he was in great
want of; and, indeed, the inhabitants in general behaved with a kindness
and civility, which fully proved the sense they entertained of the
impropriety of the Viceroy’s conduct.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to give an account of the riches of Rio
Janeiro, and the amount of the revenues arising to the King of Portugal,
from the mines of Brasil; these mines we have already given some account
of in the former part of this work, but as Mons. Bougainville’s account
is very interesting, and contains many particulars there unnoticed, we
make no doubt but the reader will approve our tracing him with the pen
of accuracy and fidelity.
The mines which lie nearest to the city of Rio Janeiro are not less
distant than two hundred and twenty miles, and are called the _General
mines_. His most faithful majesty, having a fifth part of the produce of
these mines, seldom receives less than one hundred and twelve arobas of
gold from their annual produce, and sometimes considerably more.
There are mines at Sero-frio, Sabara, and Rio des Mortes, which are
under the jurisdiction of the managers of the general mines. Near
Sero-frio is a river, the stream of which being turned out of its usual
channel, diamonds, topazes, chrysolites, and other valuable stones, are
found among the pebbles in the bed of the river; nor are any diamonds
brought from the Brasils but what are found in this particular spot.
The stones thus found are deemed the property of the owners of the
mines; but the King of Portugal has appointed a surveyor, to whom they
must give in an account of what diamonds are found with the utmost
exactness. These the surveyor puts into a casket which has three locks,
and is enclosed in iron plates; the Viceroy keeping one of the keys, the
_Provador de Hazienda Reale_ the second, and the surveyor the third.
This casket, and the keys with which it is locked, are then enclosed in
a second casket, on which these three gentlemen affix their seals; and
this again is placed in a third, on which the Viceroy puts his seal, and
thus ships the treasure for Portugal, where the coffers are opened in
the presence of his most faithful majesty, who having selected such of
the diamonds as he pleases, the owners of the mines are paid for them,
at a rate stipulated by a previous agreement.
The number of slaves employed in searching for diamonds is about eight
hundred, and for every day’s labour of each of these slaves the King of
Portugal receives a Spanish dollar from the proprietors of the mines.
It is extremely dangerous for any person to secrete a diamond; yet the
practice is very common, as the smuggled goods can be so easily hidden.
When a person is detected in this illicit trade, if he is rich he is
sentenced to deliver up the diamonds, pay twice their value, suffer one
year’s imprisonment, and then be banished to the coast of Africa for
life: but if the offender be poor, he is generally doomed to suffer
capitally.
In every district of the Brasils where gold is found, a house is
erected, to which it must be carried, and the King’s share paid, the
rest is sent to Rio Janeiro, where it is melted into wedges, and in that
state returned to the owners: these wedges being numbered, and stamped
with the King’s arms, the weight is marked on each wedge: the gold is
likewise assayed, and the alloy stamped on it, for the greater
expedition when it comes to be coined.
About ninety miles from Rio Janeiro is a place called _Praybuna_, where
there is an office for the registering the ingots which are the property
of private people; and as all persons coming from the mines must
necessarily pass this place, two military officers are stationed here,
who have fifty men under their command, whose business it is strictly to
examine, that no illicit trade is carried on; so that every one who
passes is obliged to submit to the strictest search. At this place,
exclusive of the tax to the King, men and beasts of burden are taxed
with a farther toll of a real and a half each, the half of which becomes
the property of the officers and soldiers, and the other half goes to
his Portuguese Majesty.
The ingots of gold which belong to private people having been registered
at Praybuna, are then carried to Rio Janeiro, where the proprietors are
paid their value in demi-doubloons, which are worth about thirty
shillings each of English money; but there is a profit to the King for
alloy, and for coining these demi-doubloons, of about four shillings and
six-pence on each. The mint at Rio Janeiro is a most noble building,
admirably adapted for the purpose of coining money, which is performed
with the most astonishing expedition; and this, indeed, is rendered
necessary, because two Portuguese fleets usually arrive nearly at the
same time that the gold is brought from the mines.
The fleet which arrives from Porto brings coarse cloth, several articles
of food, with brandy, wines, and vinegar; and this, with the fleet which
comes from Lisbon, occasions Rio Janeiro to be a place of very
considerable trade; the effects on being landed, are charged with a duty
of ten per cent. to his Portuguese Majesty.
Soon after the earthquake at Lisbon, in the year 1755, an impost of two
and a half per cent. under the denomination of a free gift to the King,
was laid on all goods landed at Rio Janeiro, so that the whole duty paid
is no less than twelve and a half per cent. The latter duty is instantly
paid on the goods being brought on shore, but the officers of the
custom-house will take security for the payment of the former at the
expiration of half a year.
There are two districts, named Pratacon and Quiaba, the mines of which
produce diamonds; but no person is permitted to seek for them, that the
market may not be overstocked; for it is evident that, to make diamonds
plentiful, would be to render them of little value.
His Portuguese Majesty is at an expence of about one hundred and
forty-five thousand pounds sterling, annually, for repairing of the
ships and public buildings, working the mines, and paying all his
servants, civil and military.
The following account will shew what value, in sterling money, arises
annually to his most faithful Majesty, from the royal revenues of Rio de
Janeiro.
DOLLARS.
The King’s fifths are generally, one year with another,
about one hundred and fifty arobas of gold, which make,
in Spanish dollars, 1,125,000
The duty on diamonds amounts to 240,000
The profit arising from the coinage of money is 400,000
The duty of ten per cent. paid at the custom house is 350,000
The free gift of two and a half per cent. amounts to about 87,000
Various produces of the mines, with the poll-tax, and
monies arising from the sale of offices and employments, 225,000
A duty laid on negro slaves, produces 110,000
A tenth on all the food of the country, and the taxes on
soap, salt and train-oil, bring in a revenue of 130,000
─────────
Total value in dollars 2,667,000
─────────
Hence it will appear, that the revenues arising to the King of Portugal
from Rio Janeiro are something more, annually, than four hundred and
fifty thousand pounds sterling, reckoning the dollars at four shillings
and six-pence each.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to give an account of his leaving Rio
Janeiro, and his second voyage to Montevideo; of which we shall
carefully select as many particulars as may afford either instruction or
entertainment to the reader.
On the 14th of July 1767, the anchors of the Boudeuse and Etoile were
weighed; but as the wind abated soon afterwards, they were obliged again
to bring to, before they could get out of the harbour. They sailed,
however, on the following day; and in the night of the 19th, the
main-top-sail of the Boudeuse was carried away by the violence of the
wind.
On board of Mons. Bougainville’s ship was a professor of astronomy, who
had made the expedition with a view of discovering the longitude at sea;
and as an eclipse of the sun was to happen on the 25th of the month,
great hopes were formed, that an opportunity would thereby be obtained
of making the wished-for discovery: but it happened, that these sanguine
hopes were all frustrated, by the intervention of clouds, which obscured
the face of the sun almost during the whole time of the eclipse.
On the morning of the 28th our adventurers had sight of the Castilles,
at the distance of something more than thirty miles. They saw the
entrance of a bay, which Mons. Bougainville conjectures to be the same
on the banks of which the Spaniards have erected a fort. The vessels
sailed into the Rio de la Plata, and were within sight of the Maldonados
on the 29th; early in the morning of the 31st, they had a view of the
Isle of Lobos, and before night came to an anchor in the Bay of
Montevideo.
The ships were no sooner anchored, than the Governor sent a gentleman on
board Mons. Bougainville’s vessel, who acquainted him, that most of the
Jesuits in those parts had been lately seized, and their estates
confiscated, in consequence of an order received from the Court of
Spain: that these devoted victims of superior power had scarcely made
the least resistance; that they bore their misfortunes with a degree of
patience and calm submission that did them honour; and that no less than
forty of them had been taken away in the vessel which brought the orders
for their disgrace.
As it was necessary that Mons. Bougainville should remain in his present
station till the equinox was passed, his first care was to build an
hospital for the sick, and to take lodgings at Montevideo. This being
done, he repaired to Buenos Ayres, in order to hasten the provision of
such necessaries as he wanted, for which he was to pay the same price as
the King of Spain usually gave for the same commodities.
Mons. Bougainville was also desirous of conversing with the
Governor-general Don Francisco Buccarelli, on the behaviour of the
Governor of Rio Janeiro and he soon learnt, that Don Buccarelli, instead
of making reprisals on the Viceroy of the Brasils, which he could have
done, very much to the prejudice of Portugal, had, more prudently, only
sent a narrative of his proceedings to the Court of Spain.
Don Buccarelli was so obligingly ready to supply Mons. Bougainville with
such articles as he stood in need of, that in less than three weeks two
small vessels sailed for Montevideo, with ladings of flour and biscuit
for the use of the French ships. Mons. Bougainville also sailed to
Montevideo, leaving an inferior officer at Buenos Ayres, to see the
remainder of their provisions shipped.
They now expected to sail in a short time, when an accident happened
that detained them some weeks beyond the intended period. A Spanish
register-ship being at anchor, a violent hurricane arose in the night,
and driving her against the Etoile, carried away part of the head of
that vessel, and broke her bowsprit on a level with the deck.
The leaks of the Etoile being encreased by this accident, it was
absolutely necessary that she should undergo a thorough repair; but as
there was not timber enough at Montevideo for this purpose, Mons.
Bougainville obtained Don Buccarelli’s permission, that she might sail
up the river, to the Encenada de Baragan, which is a little bay formed
by its mouth; and in this bay, by the 21st of October, she was put in a
condition proper for sailing, and began to take in the necessary
provisions.
In the road of Encenada Mons. Bougainville found a frigate and several
merchant-ships which were bound for Europe, and two Spanish vessels,
which having taken in a store of ammunition and provisions, were bound
to Falkland’s islands; and from thence to the South Seas, to take on
board the Jesuits of Peru and Chili. Two Xebecks likewise lay here, one
of which was loaded with presents from his most Catholic Majesty, to the
inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, in grateful testimony of his sense of
their generous conduct towards the crew of the ship Conception, which
was wrecked on their coasts about two years before.
The inhabitants of the country on the banks of the Encenada de Baragan
live in poor mean huts, which are constructed with rushes, having a
covering of leather. These are built in a very irregular manner, on a
miserably barren soil, and the country around them is so poor, that the
people find it very difficult to procure the necessaries of life.
From the road of Encenada de Baragan five ships sailed for Spain, having
on board most of the French families which had quitted Falkland’s
islands, and two hundred and fifty Jesuits. About this time two Spanish
register ships arrived, one of them had been no less than seven months
in her passage from Europe, above six weeks of which were expended in
the doubling of Cape Horn, where the fury of the winds was such as to
carry away her rudder, and lay her under the necessity of seeking
shelter in this port. When she arrived she had buried no less than
thirty-nine of her men, and almost all the rest were so enfeebled by the
scurvy, that only a few of the officers, and three of the fore mast-men
were able to do their duty towards navigating the vessel. Mons.
Bougainville, with the greatest humanity, sent a number of his crew on
board her, by which she was enabled to reach the harbour of Montevideo.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to give an account of his sailing from
Montevideo to the island of St. Elizabeth, which includes a narrative of
what passed on his interview with the Patagonians, and several other
interesting particulars till he reached the isle of St. Elizabeth.
The Etoile sailed from the Encenada on the 30th of October, and the
Boudeuse on the day following, having on board provisions for ten
months, and soon reached Montevideo, having lost three men in that short
passage, by a boat, in which they were sitting running fowl under the
ship at a time when she was wearing; two other men who were in the boat
were with much difficulty saved, and the boat was recovered.
Early in the morning of the 14th of November, 1767, they sailed from
Montevideo, with a fine gale of wind at north, being in sight of land
till the evening. On the 16th and the five following days, the sea ran
high, and the wind was contrary, so that they were obliged to reef their
top-sails. On the 22d the wind blew a perfect storm, which continued all
the succeeding night in squalls, attended with rain; the Etoile made a
signal of distress, but the violence of the gale would not admit of any
assistance being given them. As the waves became less mountainous, by
the abating of the wind in the morning, Mons. Bougainville hailed the
Etoile, to make enquiry into what damage she had sustained in the late
violent storm; when he learnt that several of her chain plates, and her
fore-top-sail-yard had been carried away, and that she had lost almost
all the cattle which had been purchased at Montevideo: the Boudeuse had
likewise lost most of her cattle, but had sustained no other damage.
The winds were at this time very uncertain, frequently changing during
the remainder of the month, and the currents were so violent, as to
drive the vessels as far as the forty-fifth degree of south latitude.
They now concluded, that they were between thirty and forty degrees from
the coast of Patagonia; and, at length, when they had soundings with a
line of forty fathom, they had sight of Cape Virgins; the same land
which Sir John Narborough and Commodore Anson have distinguished by the
name of Cape Virgin Mary.
As Mons. Bougainville had, during a former voyage, discovered a sunken
rock in forty-eight degrees and a half of south latitude, he avoided
coming too near the shore till he was in forty-nine degrees; the person
who had formerly first seen this rock, imagined it had been a grampus,
and the ship had sailed within considerably less than a mile of it.
It was on the 2d of December that they had sight of Cape Virgins, about
which time they made all the sail possible, as the wind was in their
favour. They now saw a number of Albatrosses, and petrels, the last of
which Mons. Bougainville says are a sign of bad weather, whenever they
are seen. They also beheld penguins, seals, and whales in considerable
numbers. He says, that the skins of the whale appeared to be covered
with small worms, very much like those which are observed to adhere to
the bottoms of old vessels which lie rotting in harbour. Some white
birds, not unlike pigeons, but of a larger size, now perched on the
yards of the Boudeuse.
Soon after they had sight of Cape Virgins they made the land of Terra
del Fuego, and for several successive days, they contended with tempests
and contrary winds. On the 3d of December, the wind blowing favourable
for a short time, they made their best efforts to reach the entrance of
the streights of Magellan; but the wind soon fell to a dead calm, and
thick fogs clouded the whole coast of the country: in a few hours the
breeze again sprang up, but, as by this time night came on, they were
obliged to ply to the windward.
Early in the morning of the 4th the wind being favourable, they again
stood in for land, when hazy weather and rain preventing their having
sight of the coast, they were obliged to keep the open sea; it cleared
up, however, in a short time, when they made another attempt to enter
the streight; but the wind changing, the fog growing thicker, and a
storm ensuing, they were compelled to lay to, between the main land, and
the two shores of Terra del Fuego.
On the 4th of December the fore-sail of the Boudeuse was split by the
fury of the winds, and as at this time they were in no deeper water than
twenty fathom, they determined to scud under their bare poles, lest they
should run fowl of some breakers which lie off Cape Virgins, to the
south south-east.
They now made other fruitless attempts to enter the streight, sometimes
being within sight of the Cape, and at other times at a considerable
distance from it. Mons. Bougainville says that the view of this Cape, as
given in Anson’s voyage, is exact in every respect.
The night of the 5th was spent in standing off and on; and early in the
morning of the sixth they were in sight of Cape Possession, and likewise
of Terra del Fuego. They now took the advantage of a westerly tide, and
tried to get close to the coast of Patagonia. They kept sounding all the
night between the sixth and seventh, not sailing to a greater distance
from the coast than three leagues. What they had gained by plying to the
windward, they lost by the opposition of the currents, and about noon on
the 7th were back in their former station.--What man in his senses, who
reads accounts like these, would hazard the imminent dangers of such
seas, for the honour of having made a new discovery, or the pride of
saying, that he had circumnavigated the globe!
This day they had sight of Cape Orange, which forms the first narrow
pass in the streights. This narrow pass Mons. Bougainville called
_goulet_, which is not improperly translated _gut_. It is rather more
than forty miles from Cape Virgins to this first gut, and the streights,
for this distance, are of different breadths, of seldom less than five,
or more than seven leagues. On the north coast the land is high and
healthy, and has a regular appearance, as far as Cape Possession, in the
bays of which there are several dangerous rocks, opposite to the two
hillocks, to which Sir John Narborough gave the name of the Asses Ears.
In the afternoon, when they had reached the entrance of the gut, though
the wind blew fresh, and all their sails were set, the tide ran with so
great force, that they were driven backwards, instead of advancing in
their voyage.
In the evening the ships were anchored in Possession Bay, and on the
eighth, by the assistance of a strong breeze, they stemmed the tide; and
afterwards, by making different tacks, they got through the first narrow
entrance of the gut, with the wind right against them.
During the preceding night they had observed fires on the shore, and
this morning they discovered a white flag, which the Patagonians had
erected on a rising ground; on which a white flag was likewise hoisted
at the mast-head of each vessel. The flag which these Patagonians had
put up, was one given to them by the Commander of the Etoile, when that
ship lay in Boucault’s Bay, in the month of June 1766, so that it is
pretty evident, that the people were the same. Mons. Bougainville speaks
in very grateful terms of the care these Indians had taken to preserve
the flag.
While the ships were passing the above-mentioned gut, a number of men,
clothed in the skins of beasts, were observed on Terra del Fuego, who
ran along the shore with their utmost expedition, in order to keep pace
with the vessels: they likewise frequently beckoned with their hands, as
if they wished our voyagers to land. The Spaniards say, that the
inhabitants of that part of Terra del Fuego, are less savage in their
manners than most other native Indians. When Mons. Bougainville sailed
from Rio de la Plata, a Spanish ship was on the point of sailing thence,
to convey some Priests, to instruct these people in the doctrines of
Christianity.
The ships having come to an anchor in the afternoon, in Boucault’s Bay,
several officers from each vessel, having fire-arms with them, embarked
in boats, and went ashore at the bottom of the bay. The common sailors
were ordered to remain in the boats, and to keep them afloat: the
gentlemen were no sooner landed, than half a dozen of the natives came
riding up to them, on the full speed. When they were advanced within
fifty yards of the French, they dismounted, and came forward,
pronouncing the word _Shawa_. Having come up quite close, they held out
their arms, and laid them on those of the officers, whom they shook
hands with, and embraced, repeatedly saying _Shawa_, which word was
repeated by Mons. Bougainville and his officers.
An Englishman, on reading the above passage, may be allowed to make a
remark on the singular politeness of these savages, manifested by the
circumstance of _embracing_; but he will not pay so vile a compliment to
the delicacy of the uninstructed Patagonian, as to suppose, that he made
the first advance towards a salute: on the contrary, it is but a piece
of justice due to the superior good-breeding of the French, to conclude,
that they taught the savages that worst rudiment of all politeness, that
most filthy deviation from all decent and manly behaviour, the shocking
custom of men kissing each other! An Englishman of virtuous principles
and refined ideas, would scorn to kiss his own son, whom he had not seen
for a twelvemonth, if the boy but approached to his teens: no! let the
manly shake of the hand, and the generous effusion of the heart from the
lips, be the only expressions of affection, duty or politeness, between
man and man. Let our _embraces_ be reserved for those amiable creatures,
to whom God and Nature have taught us they are due.
The Patagonians appeared to be much pleased with the company of their
new friends; but it was observed, that some of them had a mixture of
fear imprinted on their countenances: this, however, was soon removed by
the hospitality of the officers, who sent to the boats for bread and
cakes, which were as readily devoured as they were chearfully given.
More of the Indians soon approached, among whom were some children. They
expressed no kind of surprise at the sight of their visitants, and
seemed not to be unacquainted with the use of fire-arms, as appeared by
their making a noise which resembled the report of a gun. The good
nature of these people was expressed in all their actions: some of the
French gentlemen being engaged in collecting plants, the Patagonians no
sooner saw what kinds they collected, than they immediately began to
pull up and bring the same sorts. One of them seeing an officer engaged
in this employment, went to him, and pointing to his eye, which had
received an injury, intimated his wish, that some herb might be shewn
him, the virtues of which would cure the disorder: and this was deemed
to be a conclusive proof, that they had an idea of the medicinal virtues
of herbs.
Mons. Bougainville received from these Patagonians a number of skins of
the guanacoe and other beasts, in exchange for a few trinkets, on which
they seemed to set a great value. Some of the gentlemen having red
cloaths on, the natives advanced, and stroked them with their hands,
seeming highly delighted with every thing of that colour; they also made
signs for some tobacco, and as often as any thing was given them, they
cried out _shawa_, in a very loud and disagreeable tone.
A small quantity of brandy being given to each of the Patagonians, they
had no sooner drank it, than they struck their hands repeatedly against
their throats, and blew with their mouths, so as to produce a kind of
trembling sound, at the conclusion of which they had a singular
quivering of the lips.
The evening now advanced, and the gentlemen prepared to return to their
ships, which was no sooner observed by the Indians, than their
uneasiness was expressed in their countenances, and they intimated, by
signs, that they wished them to remain longer, as they expected more of
their brethren. The French, on the contrary, made signs that they would
come again the next day, and bring such articles as the natives had
requested of them.
Mons. Bougainville and his party now walked towards their boats,
accompanied by the Indians, one of whom sung songs till they reached the
coast, and several of them went into the water as far as where the boats
lay, where they seized on all the articles they could put their hands
on; but when they saw they were observed, they made no scruple to return
them.
As the boats were rowing off, many more Patagonians were observed
galloping down to their countrymen; and the crews of the boats now cried
out _Shawa_, so loud that the people on shore could not fail to hear
them.
Mons. Bougainville says, that these Indians were the same which were
seen by the crew of the Etoile, in the year 1765, for one of the seamen
recollected a person among them whom he had before seen. These people
are well made, and appear to be about the height described by other
voyagers. Our author says, that it is the thickness of their limbs, the
largeness of their heads, and the extraordinary breadth of their
shoulders, that make them appear to be of a gigantic race.
The colour of the Patagonians is brown, as is that of all the native
Americans, in whatever climate they are born. Their muscles are strong,
and their nerves well braced; and as their food abounds in juices proper
for the nourishment of the human frame, it is no wonder that they arrive
at their full growth. Their eyes are sparkling, their teeth extremely
white, and their faces round, but rather flat; and many of them are very
comely men. Some of them have whiskers, which grow long, but are very
thin; and they all tie their hair, which is long and black, on the top
of the head; the cheeks of some of them are painted red. Their language
has an agreeable and melodious sound. Our voyagers did not see any of
the Patagonian women; though it was conjectured, that the men intended
to have brought them from a kind of camp, which appeared to be about
three miles distant.
These people wear a piece of leather round the waist, and a kind of
cloak made of skins, which descends to the bottom of the leg, and is
girt round the body; the part which would otherwise cover the shoulders,
is permitted to fall back, so that the greater part of the body is left
naked, though the climate is so cold as, apparently, to require more
covering than the whole which they wear; but custom will harden the
human frame, so as to defy the rigour of the most inclement seasons.
It was in the summer when Mons. Bougainville was on the coast of
Patagonia, yet, he says, there was only a single day on which the
thermometer was observed to rise to ten degrees higher than the freezing
point.
The rest of the dress of the Patagonians consisted of a sort of
half-boots, made of the skin of the horse, and left open at the back
part of the leg. A few of them wore on the thigh a ring made of copper,
two inches in breadth; and the necks of two very young men were adorned
with beads.
Some small knives, of the manufacture of England, were seen in their
possession; which our author very properly concludes were the gift of
Commodore Byron; and their only arms consisted of a twisted gut, in the
two ends of which were enclosed a round pebble; and weapons of that
kind, he says, are used in all that part of the American continent.
Their horses are very poor, and of a small size; and the saddles and
bridles were such as are used by the natives of Rio de la Plata. One of
these people was observed to have gilt nails on his saddle, stirrups
made of wood, enclosed with copper, a bridle made of leather, twisted,
and a compleat Spanish harness.
Their food consists chiefly of guanacoes and vicunnas, and they eat both
the flesh and marrow of those animals. They devour this meat raw, with
great avidity, and carry it with them on their horses. Fresh water being
very scarce in this country, the horses drink the sea water, as do
likewise their dogs, which are both small and ugly.
It was observed, that some of them pronounced _capitan_, _chico_,
_bueno_, and other Spanish words. Mons. Bougainville concludes, that the
Patagonians lead the same kind of life as the Tartars, as they are
always on horseback, traversing immense plains, in pursuit of wild
beasts and game; and he imagines that they also, like the Tartars,
plunder the caravans of travellers; but this remark seems equally cruel
and unjust, from his own account of the singular friendship and kindness
with which they treated himself and his fellow-voyagers. Our author
concludes this part of his narrative by saying, that he has “since found
a nation in the south pacific ocean, which is taller than the
Patagonians.”
Mons. Bougainville tells us, that the soil of this country is extremely
dry, and very much like that of Falkland’s islands: the coast, likewise,
exhibits the same kind of sea-weeds, and shells of similar sorts are
strewed upon the beach. The country produces shrubs, but affords no
woods for shelter.
On the 9th of December, 1767, all the sails of the vessels were set, to
make head against the fury of the tide; but they were obliged again to
come to an anchor, after sailing only three miles. During two whole days
the weather was so tempestuous, that not a boat could put off from the
ships, which was a mortifying circumstance, as great numbers of the
Patagonians were by this time got together, on the spot where they had
conversed with the officers, who were concerned that they were not able
to keep their promise with these friendly people, whose little wants
might have been easily supplied. It appeared, by the help of glasses,
that they had built several huts on the shore, and it was observed, that
some of them were constantly galloping backwards and forwards from this
place to a spot, where it was supposed the main body of them lay.
Early on the morning of the 12th the Boudeuse lost an anchor, by the
parting of the cable; soon after which they set all their sails, and by
the assistance of the ebb-tide, and a favourable wind, they got through
the second gut in the afternoon, and anchored on the north-side of the
isle of Elizabeth.
As they were detained here two days, by tempestuous weather, and
contrary winds, Mons. Bougainville resolved to land on the isle of
Elizabeth, where he met with a few bustards, that were at this time
hatching their eggs, but these birds were so intimidated at the sight of
our adventurers, that they could not approach near enough to have even a
single shot at them. The island produces no wood, but only a kind of
heath, which might supply its place as fuel for the fire. The water of
this place is brackish, and the soil extremely dry. Several places were
likewise observed, which had been marshes, but had become dry, and the
ground on some parts of them were covered with a thin crust of salt. It
was evident that this island was occasionally visited by the Indians, as
the shells of some fish they had eaten were found, near where a dead dog
was lying, and where it was plain that fires had been made.
Our adventurers were now on the point of entering that part of the
streights of Magellan which abounds in woods, and the principal
difficulties were already overcome.
On the afternoon of the 30th the anchors were weighed, and they sailed,
with a violent wind, in a channel between the islands of St. Barthelemi
and Lions, and that of Elizabeth. They were now obliged to coast the
last named island, to steer clear of a number of breakers, with which
the other islands are encompassed. Having sailed beyond Cape Noir, they
observed that the country had a pleasant appearance, being almost every
where covered with woods, which afforded a most delightful prospect to
the eye.
In the evening the weather became suddenly calm and pleasant, so that
Mons. Bougainville pleased himself with the hope of being able to double
Cape Round before the morning; but in this climate the most flattering
appearances are by no means to be relied on; a truth that was fully
evinced in the present instance: for soon after twelve at night the wind
suddenly shifted, and blew most violently, bringing with it storms of
hail, and deluges of rain, while a fog, apparently impenetrable, covered
the whole coast.
The main-sail of the Boudeuse being split by this storm, they
endeavoured to make Port Famine, where they hoped to be sheltered from
the tempest; but this attempt was fruitless; for the violence of the
current was such, that they lost nine miles in as many hours, and were
hurried with amazing rapidity into a large bay, formed by part of the
coast of Terra del Fuego, which Mons. Bougainville called Bay Duelos,
from the name of the officer who was next in command under the Commodore
of the expedition, and whose knowledge and experience are mentioned as
circumstances highly advantageous to the enterprize.
This Bay is described as being very convenient for ships to anchor in,
on account of the westerly winds blowing over the coast. Two small
rivers discharge their streams into the bay, the water of which is
excellent at about a quarter of a mile from the sea coast, though nearer
than that distance it is impregnated with saline particles. The
landing-place is a sandy beach, above which a pleasant meadow stretches
itself to a considerable distance. Behind this meadow the woods raise
their lofty heads, and form a kind of amphitheatre. Our adventurers
traversed a considerable tract of the country, without meeting with any
living animal, except a very few parroquets, bustards, ducks, teals, and
two or three snipes.
Several huts were seen at the mouth of a river, which had been
constructed by twisting branches of trees into the form of an oven. In
these huts were found large numbers of limpets, muscles, and calcined
shells; and the huts themselves appeared to have been recently made. Our
adventurers going some miles up the river, observed the track of human
creatures, and remarked, that the flood came from the east at the rising
of the tide, which they had not before observed in any other part of the
streights.
The seamen were now engaged in cutting wood till the 16th, when the
vessels sailed with a favourable wind, and passed Point St. Anne, which
covers Port Famine, a bay so called, on account of the disastrous fate
of the colony formerly established on its borders by the too adventrous
Spaniards.
Mons. Bougainville observes, that the shores of this country are covered
with wood, and are remarkably steep: those of Terra del Fuego, he says,
are horrible to behold; and that “mountains there are covered with a
blueish snow as old as the creation:”--These are his own words; but with
all submission to the learning and penetration of our ingenious voyager,
we cannot conceive by what kind of intuition, he came to know that the
snow had lain on these mountains more than five thousand years; or even
that it had not fallen within five days of the time he saw it. It is no
breach of Christian charity to observe, that these Frenchmen are as
finished coxcombs in their writings, as they are in every part of their
dress and behaviour. It is hoped that Englishmen will be cautious how
they imitate them in either particular.
There are four bays proper for the anchoring of vessels, between Cape
Forward and Cape Round; and two of these bays are separated by a Cape of
a most singular kind, which consists of petrified shells, laying
horizontally, and rising more than fifty yards above the level of the
sea. Mons. Bougainville took soundings at the foot of this Cape, but a
line of an hundred fathom would not reach the bottom.
As the ships were now becalmed for two hours, our Commodore took this
opportunity of taking the soundings near, and the bearings of Cape
Forward, which he mentions as the most southerly point of land, on the
continent, in the known world, and he fixes its latitude at fifty-four
degrees, five minutes, and forty-five seconds, south. Its surface
consists of two hills, something more than two miles in extent, one of
which is considerably higher than the other. The tops of these hills are
covered with snow, which gradually melting by the warmth of the sun,
supply with perpetual moisture the roots of trees which are fixed in the
crevices of the rock.
Mons. Bougainville and his party landed on a small rock, which barely
afforded room for four persons to stand on, and here they hoisted the
colours of the boat, and repeatedly shouted _Vive le Roi_. Our author
mentions it with an air of triumph, that these rocks now resounded _for
the first time_, with this compliment to the grand Monarche. A striking
instance of the vanity by which the French nation is distinguished!
[Illustration: _Monsieur Bougainville Hoisting the French Colours, on a
small Rock near Cape Forward in the Streights of Magellan._]
Having returned to the ship, and the wind coming about favourable, Mons.
Bougainville sailed in search of a harbour, which received the name of
_French Bay_, where he resolved to take in a quantity of wood and water,
as a supply during their voyage across the great South-Sea. In
consequence of this resolution all the boats were instantly hoisted out,
with a view to begin this necessary business the next morning.
The night proving excessively stormy and tempestuous, it was passed in
fears and apprehensions which baffle all description.
Early in the morning a boat was sent out to sound the mouth of a river
which had been previously denominated _Gennes’ River_, from the name of
a gentleman who was a partaker in the dangers and hardships of this
expedition. As it was low water when the boat reached the shore, her
crew could not land without running her a-ground on a sand; and it was
evident, that the larger boats could only make the shore at high water,
so that their wood and water could be brought on board only once a day.
For these reasons Mons. Bougainville determined to anchor in a small bay
about three miles distant, called after his own name, where he had, in
the year 1765, taken in a loading of wood for Falkland’s islands.
Bougainville bay, to which they now sailed, is surrounded by high
mountains, which secure it from the winds blowing from every point of
the compass, so that the surface of the water is unruffled even by a
single breeze.
Having cast their anchors in this bay, and made fast the vessels by
means of hawsers tied to some trees on the coast, they landed, and found
two Indian huts, constructed of the branches of trees, but they did not
appear to have been lately inhabited. In the year 1765 Mons.
Bougainville had caused a hut of bark to be erected on this spot, in
which he left some trifles, by way of present to such of the natives as
might happen to wander that way; on this hut he had put up a white flag;
but both the presents and the flag had been taken away, and the hut
levelled with the ground.
On the morning of the 18th of December a kind of camp was formed on
shore, by way of guarding the effects which were landed, and protecting
the men who were to be employed in taking in wood and water. Small ponds
were now dug, for the accommodation of those destined to wash the linen,
and the water casks were sent on shore to be repaired. The crew of the
Eagle having, in 1765, cut down many more trees than were wanted for
that vessel, the labour of this task was saved to our present
adventurers, who were likewise happy in finding roads ready made through
the woods, for the convenience of bringing down the timber to the
sea-shore. At this place the remainder of the month was spent in the
necessary employment above-mentioned, and in repairing the ships,
particularly the Etoile, which had so large a leak in her stern, that
most of the hands on board her were fatigued beyond expression, by
standing at the pumps, alternately, night and day.
The astronomer, Mons. Verron, now landed on a little island, which was
denominated the _Isle of Observatory_, from its being a place admirably
calculated for the making astronomical observations; but his labours
were fruitless, owing to the cloudiness of the weather, which is almost
perpetual in this country. At some periods, however, the sun appeared
free from clouds, and melted a part of the snow which had lodged on the
mountains of the main land. Whenever this fine weather happened, the
prince of Nassau, attended by Mons. de Commerçon, a celebrated botanist,
went in search of plants and herbs, and they were very successful in
their researches: but the gentlemen who endeavoured to fish, or to hunt
for animals, met with no such good fortune, for they never catched even
a single fish, nor ever saw any quadruped but one fox, which was killed
by the party employed in collecting the stores.
Mons. Bougainville having formed a resolution of taking a survey of the
coasts of the main land, and likewise of those of Terra del Fuego, he
embarked in his boat, early in the morning of the 22d, accompanied by
two gentlemen, who proposed to sail with him as far as Cape Holland. The
weather was calm and serene at their first setting out; but the wind
soon varied to different points of the compass, and blew a hurricane,
which obliged our adventurers to take shelter in the mouth of a small
river. Having gained the desired port, they waited in the hope that the
storm would abate, till they were almost benumbed with the cold, and wet
to the skin with the rain; they therefore landed, and cutting down some
branches of trees, erected a kind of hut, in order to shelter them
during the night. “These huts (says Mons. Bougainville) serve as palaces
to the natives of these climates; but we had not yet learnt their custom
of living in them.”
It continued to rain incessantly, and was at the same time so cold, that
the gentlemen found their present situation untenable; they therefore
sheltered themselves as well as they could under the sail of the boat,
and kept up a large fire all night, which was tempestuous in a very high
degree. In the morning they hastened to their boat, and returned to the
ship, happy, by that means, to avoid the effects of the growing tempest,
which soon became so violent, that it would have prevented their
returning at all. For two days after this it snowed continually, so that
the mountains were covered, notwithstanding it was now midsummer, and
the sun appeared almost eighteen hours in the four and twenty.
When the storm had subsided, Mons. Bougainville formed the resolution of
going on a second expedition, which he flattered himself would be
attended with more success. Accordingly, early in the morning of the
27th (the barge of the Etoile, and the long-boat of the Boudeuse, having
been armed with swivel guns and muskets) our adventurers embarked with
the prince of Nassau, and two other gentlemen, and sailed for the coast
of Terra del Fuego, where they arrived in about six hours; and finding a
number of huts, which the natives had left in a delightful wood on the
sea-coast, they there sat down, and made a most agreeable repast.
After dinner they coasted the country for a considerable time, and then
crossed an inlet, which Mons. Bougainville conjectures to be a streight
which leads to the sea, at no great distance from Cape Horn. This
conjecture is founded partly on the width of the inlet, which is not
less than six miles, and partly on the observing a prodigious number of
whales in that part of the sea.
When our adventurers had almost reached the opposite side of the inlet,
they saw a number of fires on the coast, and soon afterwards discovered
several of the inhabitants on the point of a bay. Towards this place
they immediately steered; and they had no sooner landed, than Mons.
Bougainville recollected, that these Indians were the same people whom
he had seen on his former voyage in the streights, and whom he had then
distinguished by the name of _Pecherais_, because these savages were
perpetually making use of that word, in the same manner as the
Patagonians did that of _Shawa_.
The number of the Pecherais that had thus assembled was about forty, of
both sexes, and all ages, and they had several canoes in an adjacent
creek. As the evening advanced, Mons. Bougainville could not stay long
with his old acquaintance, but left them, in order to reach an inlet,
where he proposed to spend the night; but as the time would not permit
the accomplishing his wish, he landed on the banks of a river, and
having caused tents to be made of the sails of the boats, and a large
fire to be made, the party spent the night in perfect safety, and much
to their satisfaction.
On the following day it was found that the inlet above-mentioned was an
excellent port, wherein ships might be sheltered against every dangerous
wind; and in which the ground is admirably calculated to afford the best
and safest anchorage. From the elegance and convenience of this bay and
port it received the name of _Beaubassin_ [the beautiful harbour.] Mons.
Bougainville mentions this place as equally convenient for the careening
of ships, and for the taking in wood and water.
That no necessary information respecting so commodious a harbour might
be lost, the Commodore left Mons. Bournard there, to take the most exact
account of every thing that might be thought worthy of notice, and he
was then to return, in the long-boat, to the ships. In the mean time
Mons. Bougainville and a part of his company embarked in the barge, and
rowing to the westward, discovered an island, on the coast of which
several of the natives were employed in fishing. Before the evening our
voyagers arrived at a bay, which received the name of _de la
Cormorandiere_; from a rock which appeared at about a mile distant from
it.
Early in the morning of the 29th Mons. Bougainville departed from this
bay, and sailed between two islands, to which he gave the name of the
_two Sisters_, they are situated about nine miles from Cape Forward.
Soon after this they discovered a mountain, of a conical form, which
they called the _Sugar Loaf_; and, in the course of the day they arrived
at a commodious bay, at the bottom of it there is a most excellent port,
into which falls a very singular cascade. For these reasons the place
received the name of the _Bay and Port of the Cascade_. It is
represented as a place highly proper for taking in wood and water, and
very safe to anchor in.
[Illustration: _A Prospective View of the great Cascade in Cascade
Bay._
_J. June Sc._]
The stream of a small river which seeks its way between a number of
lofty hills, forms this water-fall, which descends perpendicularly down
the side of the rock above a hundred yards. Mons. Bougainville went to
the top of the cascade, and made his remarks on the appearance of the
adjacent country, in some parts of which there are small plains which
produce a kind of spungy moss, and in others the ground is covered with
thickets of wood. The plants and trees are of the same kind as those
which the coast of Patagonia produces; and the whole face of the country
has much the appearance of Falkland’s islands, except the want of trees
at the latter place. On the whole, our author says, that all that part
of Terra del Fuego, from the present spot, to that which lies opposite
Elizabeth island, consists only of large and mountainous islands, the
summits of which are clothed with perpetual snow. Mons. Bougainville
searched in this place to find the traces of inhabitants, but he did not
succeed; and he is of opinion, that the natives of Terra del Fuego
seldom, if ever, depart from the sea-shores, because on those they
obtain the necessaries of life.
Our adventurers remained at Port Cascade, during the night of the 29th,
which was rendered highly disagreeable by incessant rain, and intense
cold; and on the morning of the following day they crossed the streight
with a boisterous wind and a rough sea, which rendered the navigation
dangerous to so small a vessel. The rain kept pouring down almost the
whole of this day, which was employed in viewing the coast, and making
such remarks as may be useful to future navigators. Our voyagers had now
a very narrow escape with their lives, the boat having been nearly
overset in crossing a bay, owing to a mistake of the steersman in the
management of the helm. At length, however, they got safe on board the
Boudeuse, and as the commanding officer, during Mons. Bougainville’s
absence, had shipped every thing that was necessary, preparations were
immediately made for sailing.
They departed from Bougainville Bay in the afternoon of the 31st of
December, 1767, and in the evening came to an anchor in the road of Port
Galant, which is situated at the bottom of Fortescue Bay, where they
were detained no less than three weeks, by such bad weather, as the
inhabitants of these milder climes cannot form an adequate idea of.
On the first of January, 1768, Mons. Bougainville dispatched a party in
a boat, to make remarks on the coast, as far as Elizabeth Bay; and to
take a view of the numerous islands with which this part of the
streights of Magellan abounds. Two of these islands, to which Sir John
Narborough formerly gave the names of Charles and Monmouth, were
distinctly seen from the place where the ships lay at anchor; but those
which he has denominated the Royal Isles, and Rupert Island, were at too
great a distance to be viewed from Mons. Bougainville’s present station.
Notwithstanding the severity of the weather, and the almost incessant
rains, the crew which had been sent out landed on different places, at
one of which it was evident, that some English ships had lately touched;
for on several trees they saw initial letters, and even whole names, cut
in the wood: they also saw many spice-laurel-trees, the bark of which
had been lately taken off, with other plain indications who they were
that had visited the spot, but what put the matter beyond all doubt,
were the words, _Chatham, March, 1766_, which were very legible on a
piece of wood, of that kind which is frequently affixed to pieces of
cloth in the royal marine warehouses of Great Britain.
The astronomer, Mons. Verron, in the mean time, had his astronomical
instruments conveyed to a peninsula, by which the harbour is formed, in
order to make observations, for ascertaining the bearing and distances
of particular capes: but the result of his observations would afford
neither instruction nor entertainment to any but the mere nautical
reader; nor would they be of the least use even to him, unless he was
bound on a voyage to the South Seas, through the streights of Magellan.
The weather was so exquisitely severe on the fourth and fifth of
January, that no pen can describe it, nor any imagination conceive an
idea of it. A violent storm of wind was attended with incessant rain or
snow, and the keenest biting coldness in the air. Mons. Bougainville
informs us that, during this severe weather, he sent out a boat to
search for a convenient anchoring-place on the coast of Terra del Fuego,
and an excellent one was found to the south-west of Charles and Monmouth
islands.
On the 6th the weather was more moderate than it had been for some days
past. In the morning of this day four small boats, with Indians on board
them, were observed at the point of Cape Galant, one of which advanced
towards Mons. Bougainville’s ship, while the rest rowed towards the
bottom of the bay. In the boat which approached the Boudeuse were a man,
his wife, and two children, the former of whom went on board, without
the least apparent sign of fear, leaving the woman and children in the
boat. Soon after this man had gone on board, two Indians from the other
boats followed his example, bringing their children with them.
These people seemed not to express the least surprize either at the
structure of the ship, or at any thing they saw on board her, which our
author deems a proof that, “in order to be capable of being surprized at
the work of art, one must have some fundamental ideas of it.”--There may
be some truth in this observation; but we cannot help resolving the
apparent want of curiosity in these savages into another, and a very
different cause; namely, their having seen the English, or other
vessels, which had visited the streights of Magellan.
The Commodore prevailed on these people to dance and sing, and treated
them with a kind of concert of music. He likewise gave them bread, and
different kinds of meat, all of which they devoured with avidity,
seeming equally pleased with every thing that was given them, and with
every occurrence that passed; nor could they be persuaded to quit the
ship, till several pieces of salt meat had been put into their boats.
Our author calls these happy Indians “troublesome and disgusting
guests.”--One would wonder on what authority he has adopted these
epithets, or how the company of the _savages_, as he calls them, could
be troublesome or disgusting, when they sang and danced, only on being
asked to do so; received with gratitude whatever was given them, and
applied it to the purpose for which it was given.--Mons. Bougainville
calls them “unpolished men;” as if the frippery complaisance of the
court of Versailles could have been expected from these honest tenants
of the woods; whose instructors are plain sense and nature, and whose
God is the God of the Europeans.--In a word, our author writes with an
affected consciousness of superiority, and in the pert restlessness of
stile, that is almost peculiar to the French novelist who would be
thought a philosopher.
The people are clothed with seal-skins, which are by far too small to
cover the whole of the body; and with these skins they make the sails of
their boats, and the coverings of their huts. They are likewise
possessed of a few of the skins of the guanacoe, but our author does not
mention to what use they apply them; though it should seem probable that
they form a part of their clothing.
Mons. Bougainville describes these Indians as thin, short, and ugly; and
that a most offensive smell is the consequence of keeping them company.
The women are still more disagreeable than the men, who do not appear by
any means fond of them. It is the duty of the females to steer the
boats, and to repair any damage that may happen to them; and they are
often obliged to swim after them through the sea-weeds; nor are even
women who have sucking children excused this duty: the child is carried
on the mother’s back, enclosed in the seal-skin that forms her dress.
When the women are on shore their business is to collect shells and
wood; nor do the men even share with them in this employment.
The boats are constructed of the bark of trees, fastened together with
rushes, and the seams are caulked with moss. A fire is constantly kept
in the middle of the boat, on a heap of sand, which is placed to prevent
the burning of the vessel. Their arms consist of bows and arrows formed
of the branches of the berberry bush, which grows plentifully in these
parts. The arrows are pointed with sharp stones, and the string of the
bow is made of the gut of some animal; but they use not these weapons
against an enemy; they are destined only for the destruction of birds,
or other animals proper for the support of life.
Mons. Bougainville says, that these Indians use a kind of harpoon, for
the purpose of striking fish, which is made of bones, it is about twelve
inches in length, pointed at the end, and indented on one of its sides.
The principal subsistence of these people is fish; but it is supposed
that they sometimes catch game, as they have dogs of the sporting kind,
and springes, or nooses, adapted for the snaring of quadrupeds. The
teeth of all the natives are very bad, which our author attributes to
their eating fish when boiling hot, though they do not half boil it
before it is so eaten. They live in huts which have no partition of
rooms, in the middle of which a fire is lighted, that serves the whole
family.
The disposition of these people is of the amiable kind; but their
extreme good nature borders on weakness; they believe in evil genii, and
have priests and physicians, whom they suppose capable of deprecating
the vengeance of their aerial enemies. Mons. Bougainville observes, that
these _Pecherais_ have the fewest conveniences of life of any people he
has ever known; yet they do not repine at their situation, but appear to
be contented with the lot which providence hath assigned them; tho’ they
live in the most inclement climate hitherto discovered in the habitable
globe. Exclusive of the other peculiarities of their fate, they are
fewer in number than any other known race of men; yet this little
society, cut off as it is from all intercourse with the rest of mankind,
is not totally free from the vices common to larger states, as a contest
for dominion exists even among them, and the more powerful are
perpetually labouring to distress the weaker. Thus it is with the poor
_Pecherais_, as with every other community in the universe, that those
who cannot make head against tyranny, must submit to the arbitrary
command, the _sic voleo, sic jubeo_ of the tyrant.
The inclemency of the weather, during the 7th and 8th of the month, was
such, that the crews of the ships could not venture on shore; and though
it was even now the summer-time, the adjacent country was covered with
snow, which also laid on the ship to the depth of several inches.
On the ninth the Indians, who had previously painted their bodies with
red and white streaks, advanced towards the ships; but seeing the boats
go off towards their habitations, all of them, except one, followed the
ships boats, and that went on board the Etoile, where she remained but a
little while, and then followed the others.
The crews of the boats having landed, went to the huts of the Indians,
who seemed by no means to relish this unexpected visit; which was
particularly evinced by the women having all retreated to one hut. The
men invited the French sailors into those huts where the women were not
to be found; and the Frenchmen having accepted the invitation, were
treated with shell fish, which the Indians shucked before they delivered
them to their visitors. The behaviour of the natives was lively, and
they entertained their guests with dancing and singing: they revelled
with uncontrolled delight, when, alas! their mirth was interrupted by an
accident as fatal as unexpected!
A boy, the son of one of the Indians, was suddenly seized with a
disorder which occasioned the most violent convulsions, and spitting of
blood. This child had been on board the Etoile, where the seamen had
presented him with some pieces of glass; and as these Indians are
accustomed to put things of this kind up their nostrils, and into their
throats, it is supposed this youth had taken the same measure, and that
the fatal effects which followed were the consequence of his having
swallowed the glass. It is here proper to remark, that the _Pecherais_
consider the swallowing of substances which resemble glass, as a
preventive remedy against certain disorders to which they are liable.
The lips, palate, and gums of the boy were cut; and as he bled freely,
the Indians conceived an idea that the Frenchmen had violated the rights
of hospitality, and injured him, whom, by all the laws of honour, they
were bound to treat with civility.
This circumstance gave rise to a jealousy and distrust no way favourable
to their European visitors; indeed it appeared, that the Indians
suspected the French to have caused the child’s illness. A linen jacket
having been given to this child by the French, he was stript of it, and
it was thrown at their feet; but it was instantly seized by an Indian,
who did not seem to dread the powers of enchantment.
The child being laid on his back, a conjurer knelt between his legs, and
pressing the body forcibly with his hands and head, uttered a number of
inarticulate vociferations. At repeated intervals during this ceremony
he arose, and opening his hands, which had been before grasped, he blew
in the air with his mouth, as if desirous of driving away some evil
genius. While this business was transacting, an ancient woman bawled in
the ears of the child, so as almost to deafen him with her noise; and
indeed the remedy seemed to be, in the literal phrase, worse than the
disease. The conjurer having retired for some time, returned in a new
dress, and, with an air of triumph, renewed his incantations, but with
no better success than before. His hair had been powdered, and his head
was distinguished by two wings, similar to those with which Mercury is
represented by the painters. The life of the child now appearing to be
even in more danger than before, the French Chaplain hastily baptized
him, unobserved by the Indians.
What a strange medley of ignorance and superstition was all this!--Mons.
Bougainville laughs at the folly of the Indian juggler, while he seems
to speak in an applausive strain of the conduct of the French priest,
which was certainly equally ridiculous with that of the Indian!
Some officers having repaired on board the ship, and acquainted the
Commodore with what was transacting, he went on shore with the Surgeon,
who took some gruel and milk with him. When they came to the spot, they
found that the juggler was assisted by another person habited like
himself, and that the patient had suffered much from their absurd
attempts to relieve him; yet were these attempts continued, without any
complaint on the part of the poor boy.
The affection of the parents, and indeed of the whole company of
Indians, was manifested by floods of tears, and by many other
expressions of grief; and when it was observed, that the Frenchmen
seemed to share in their misfortune, they appeared to be less diffident
of the conduct of the strangers; and at length they permitted the
Surgeon to examine the mouth of the sick youth, which being bloody, had
been repeatedly sucked by his father and another man.
After some time the father accepted the gruel, and permitted his son to
drink some milk, but not till the French gentlemen had repeatedly tasted
it in his presence. The conjurers appeared to be jealous of the Surgeon,
but they could not help confessing the superiority of his abilities. It
was remarked, that while one of these Indian physicians was endeavouring
to drive away the disorder, the other was busily employed in deprecating
that vengeance, which they supposed the visit of the strangers had
occasioned.
In the evening the child appeared to be less pained; but, from many
circumstances, it was thought, that he had swallowed some pieces of
glass. Mons. Bougainville and the Surgeon now went on board, and it is
conjectured, that the boy died about two o’clock the next morning; for
soon after that time loud cries were heard, and, at day-break, the
Indians departed from a place which had been so peculiarly fatal to
them; for the loss of even one member of so small a community, could not
but be an object of great and public concern.
On the 13th and 14th the weather was so bad, that it was impossible to
think of sailing, and on the 15th the vessels were detained by a strong
contrary wind; but on the following day they sailed, with a favourable
breeze, which, however, soon shifted, and prevented their reaching
Rupert island, off which it was Mons. Bougainville’s intention to have
anchored. After a whole day of fatigue and danger they returned to Port
Galant, and anchored again near their former station.
On the seventeenth the storms were more violent than they had ever yet
been; the sea ran to a mountainous height, and the wind blew in such
contrary directions, that the opposing waves destroyed each other. The
storm having in some degree subsided before noon, a loud peal of thunder
was presently heard, after which the winds blew with increasing
violence, and all the elements waged a still more furious war. The
anchors of the ships having dragged, the top-masts and lower-yards were
struck, to avoid the dreadful consequences of the storm. At this time,
however, the shrubs and plants were in bloom, and the trees were covered
with a luxuriance of verdure.
On the 21st and the two following days the weather was extremely windy,
while it rained and snowed incessantly. The night of the 21st indeed was
moderately calm; but this calm served only as the prelude to a storm,
which descended with aggravated fury; such a storm as the oldest sailor
on board had never remembered; but its continuance was by no means
proportioned to its violence.
On the 24th the weather being fine and serene, preparations were made
for sailing, and on the following day the anchors were weighed, and the
vessels got under way. Having arrived off Cape Quod, our Commodore stops
a moment to describe it. Its figure, he says, is very singular,
consisting of craggy rocks, the most elevated of which bear a strong
resemblance to the ruins of ancient buildings. From Bay Galant to this
cape the verdant appearance of the trees takes off, in some degree, that
horror, which would otherwise arise in the mind from the constant sight
of the summits of mountains which are always frozen. After passing Cape
Quod, the face of the country is totally changed, both sides of the
streight exhibiting a prospect of rocks, which are uncovered even with
the slighted layer of earth. The tops of these rocks are cloathed with
eternal snow, while the vallies between them are choaked up with
prodigious quantities of ice, which have the appearance of having been
congealed for a long series of years. So dreadful is the appearance of
this part of the streight, that Sir John Narborough gave it the name of
_Desolation of the South_; and, in fact, it is desolate and dreary
beyond all description.
When Mons. Bougainville’s ship was opposite Cape Quod, the coast of
Terra del Fuego, distant upwards of forty miles, appeared as if
terminated by a projecting cape. There are three capes on the continent,
which our adventurers called _Etoile Cape_, _Boudeuse Cape_, and _Split
Cape_[3], the last of which is so denominated from its figure. The
streight, which in this part is about six miles wide, received the name
of Long Reach[4].
[3] _Cape Fendu_, in the original.
[4] _Longue Rue._
As the evening of the 26th was very fine, Mons. Bougainville determined
to continue his way under an easy sail; but about two hours before
midnight a thick fog came on, the wind arose, and the rain poured down
in torrents, while it became so excessive dark, that no land could be
seen. The situation of the ships was now supposed to be opposite Cape
Monday; and the night was spent in standing off and on shore, in
momentary expectation of some fatal accident.
The land being seen at day-break, they hoisted additional sails, and
proceeded with rapidity, till they reached Cape Pillar, when they had
sight of the main ocean, into which they arrived under a full sail, on
the evening of the same day; having, by the advantage of thirty six
hours fair wind, sailed from port Galant into the great South Sea,
without once coming to an anchor.
Mons. Bougainville was seven weeks and three days in passing the
streights of Magellan, the whole length of which, from Cape Virgin Mary
to Cape Pillar, he computes at about three hundred and forty miles.
Though the passing the streights is a work of some difficulty and
danger, our author recommends it as more safe than the doubling of Cape
Horn, if undertaken between the months of September and April; but,
during the rest of the year, he advises the passing through the open
sea; and he observes, that the lost time in sailing through the
Magellanic Streights, is amply repaid by the conveniences of taking in
wood and water, and the chance there is of the scurvy making less havock
among a crew, when they have repeated opportunities of landing. He adds,
that when he left the streights he had not a single invalid on board
either of his vessels.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a recital of the several
circumstances which arose, and the adventures he met with, from this
period till his return to Europe; in which we shall trace him with the
utmost fidelity of the historian; presuming to differ from him whenever
he appears to be mistaken as a writer, or to act on wrong principles as
a man.
Our Commodore now sailed nearly a westerly course, having previously
agreed with the Captain of the Etoile, that he should keep company with
the Boudeuse during the nights, and in the morning of each day should
sail as far as he could to the southward, without losing sight of the
other vessel, in order that the ships might command as extensive a
prospect as possible, by which means it was hoped that some new
discoveries might be made.
On the 30th of January, while the sea ran very high, one of the crew of
the Boudeuse fell over board, and was drowned, notwithstanding every
endeavour to preserve his life.--From this time till the 17th of
February, Mons. Bougainville sailed in search of what is called Davis’s
Land, which was discovered by our countryman of that name in the year
1686; and he says, that if he had followed the directions laid down in
Mons. de Bellin’s chart, he must have sailed over this land.
On the 17th sea gulls were seen; and as these birds do not go above
eighty leagues from land, it was resolved not to alter the course of the
ships for three days; but within this period no land was discovered.
The westerly wind, with a slight variation to the north and south,
prevailed from the 23d of February to the 3d of March, during which time
they had rain and thunder every day, immediately before, or soon after
the sun had reached the meridian. This variation of the wind, from what
is commonly called the Trade-wind, is mentioned by Mons. Bougainville as
an extraordinary circumstance.
Soon after the ships had got clear of the streights of Magellan, an
epidemical sore throat attacked almost every man on board, which was
cured by putting vinegar and red hot bullets into the water-casks, so
that by the end of March, the whole crew were recovered. For several
days after this period such a quantity of bonitos and other fish was
catched, as afforded one meal daily to every man on board.
On the 21st a tunny fish was taken, in the belly of which were a number
of small fish of such kinds, as are known not to swim far out to sea;
whence it was concluded, that land could not be at any great distance;
and on the following day this conjecture appeared to be well founded,
for four very small islands were then discovered, to which Mons.
Bougainville gave the name of _les quatre Facardins_; but as these were
too much to the windward of the ships, they held on their way, steering
for another island, which was almost right a head.
As the vessels advanced towards this latter island, it was observed,
that it abounded with cocoa-nut trees, the fruit of which had a very
tempting appearance. These trees grew on plats of grass, strewed with an
abundance of beautiful flowers; and the rest of the island was clothed
with trees of various kinds. Immense numbers of birds were seen on the
coast, which was therefore supposed to afford a plenty of fish: but the
sea running high, and no harbour being discovered, in which our voyagers
might hope for protection from the fury of its waves, they were
prevented from landing: when they had coasted the island for about two
miles, they had sight of three men, who advanced hastily towards the
shore.
Mons. Bougainville at first imagined that these people were part of the
crew of some European ship, which had been wrecked on the coast; and,
impressed with this idea he gave, the necessary orders for affording
them the wished for relief: but he soon discovered that his conjecture
was ill-founded; for the people retired to the woods, from whence, in a
short time, issued a number of them, supposed to be near twenty, with
long staves in their hands, which they held up with an air of
threatening and defiance. This being done, they retreated to the woods,
in which, by the help of glasses, their habitations were plainly seen.
These islanders were of a copper complexion, and very tall.
Mons. Bougainville makes it a matter of wonder by what means these
people were conveyed to this solitary island, and how they are disposed
of when their increasing numbers render their support impossible on a
spot, the circumference of which, he apprehends, does not exceed nine
miles:--but our philosopher seems to forget that he has but just left
four other small islands; nor did he recollect, when he wrote his
volume, that he was, in a subsequent page, to tell us that he had soon
afterwards discovered a larger island, the inhabitants of which, for any
thing he could tell, might have intercourse with those on the
before-mentioned island. He seems equally ignorant, whether the people
of these islands are or are not possessed of vessels proper for
conveying them from one to the other; and he has forgot likewise, which
appears to be the greatest blunder of all, that there may probably be,
in this neighbourhood, some large continent, hitherto unknown to all our
European navigators. It is possible our remarks may be as absurd as
Mons. Bougainville’s appear to be; but they seem to arise naturally from
the subject. Be this as it may; our Commodore named the above-mentioned
place the _Isle of Lance-bearers_, from the staves, or lances, which the
inhabitants brandished.
During the night between the 22d and 23d they had much rain, accompanied
with violent thunder, while the wind blew almost a tempest. At the dawn
of the morning land was discovered, which appeared to be a regular
level, sufficiently clothed with verdure. Breakers being observed on the
coast, the ships stood out to sea, till the weather becoming more calm,
they might approach the shore with greater safety, which happening
before noon, they then coasted the island, which is shaped like a
horse-shoe, and its inside is filled by the sea.
Some parts of this island produce cocoa-nut and other trees, which
afford a very agreeable shade, but the greater part of it is only a
sand, on which grows no kind of verdure. A number of Indians were
observed in boats, some of them rowing, and others sailing, on the lake
formed by the shape of the island. These people were all naked; and in
the evening large numbers of them were seen on the sea-shore, with pikes
in their hands, like those with which the inhabitants of the Isle of
Lance-bearers were armed.
Night advanced before any proper place was found for the ship’s boats to
land; nor were they more successful in their researches in the morning;
wherefore they held on their course, Mons. Bougainville having called
the place _Harp Island_; the inhabitants of which had the appearance of
being tall, and genteelly made.
Our flippant Frenchman professes to admire the courage of these
islanders, “if they live unconcerned on these little slips of sand,”
which are every moment liable to be sunk in the abyss of an enormous
ocean. He might as well admire the courage of the inhabitants of France,
the redoubted vassals of _Louis le Grand_; who are not less liable to
fall victims to a convulsion of nature, nor under the more immediate
protection of the Almighty, than these harmless tenants of a solitary
island; happily cut off, as they are, from an intercourse with the more
polished barbarians of Europe!
In the evening of the day on which Harp Island was discovered, they had
sight of other land, at the distance of something more than twenty
miles, which had the appearance of being, what it afterwards was found
to be, a cluster of islands, eleven of which were seen, and received the
name of the _Dangerous Archipelago_. Our author conjectures, that they
are more numerous, and observes, that it is dangerous sailing among
them, as they are encompassed with shoals and breakers, through which a
vessel ought to steer with peculiar care.
The ships now stood to the south, and by the 28th of the month were out
of sight of all land. The cluster of islands above-mentioned were first
discovered by _Quirôs_, in the year 1606, and were again visited by
_Roggewein_, in the year 1722, who gave them the name of the
_Labyrinth_.
Nothing material happened from this time till towards the end of March,
when the weather was boisterous and stormy, to a very great degree, for
several days successively; and the scurvy now began to attack several of
the crew. To combat the ill effects of this disorder, every invalid
received, daily, a pint of lemonade, in which was infused a powder,
which had been frequently used with success during the voyage. About
this time they were much in want of fresh water, which was procured by
the distillation of sea-water, according to a process invented by Mons.
Poissonier; and the water thus procured was used in boiling meat, and
making broth. The bread was kneaded with salt-water.
A steep mountain, which appeared to be encompassed by the sea, was
discovered on the second of April, and received the name of the
_Boudoir_, or _Boudeuse Peak_, from that of Mons. Bougainville’s
ship.--Bearing to the northward of this peak, they had sight of land,
which extended farther than the eye could reach.
By this time it was become highly necessary for the ships to put in at
some port, where they might obtain refreshments, and take in a supply of
wood. For the greater part of this day the weather was wholly calm; but
in the evening a breeze sprung up, which conveyed the ships near the
newly-discovered land; but it was thought prudent to stand off and on
for the night.
In the morning they had sight of more land to the northward, but were
not able to distinguish whether it was another island, or a part of that
which they had before seen.
In the night between the 3d and 4th of the month fires were observed on
several places, from whence it was conjectured, that the country
abounded with inhabitants. Just before sunrising on the 4th, it was
discovered that the two lands, which had been supposed to be separate
islands, were connected by a flat country, bending like a bow, and
forming a fine bay. While the ships were standing in towards the land, a
boat was seen coming from the offing, which soon afterwards crossed a
head of the ship, and joined a number of other boats, which had
assembled from various parts of the island. This assemblage of boats was
preceded by one which was rowed by twelve Indians, quite naked, who
advanced towards the side of the ship, and held up some boughs of the
banana tree. Considering this as a token of friendship, our adventurers,
in their turn, endeavoured to express a reciprocal regard.
This being done, the natives rowed alongside the Boudeuse, and a rope
being lowered into the boat, one of them affixed to his branch of the
banana tree, a quantity of the fruit of that tree, and a small pig. This
present was accepted, and, in return for it, Mons. Bougainville gave
them some handkerchiefs and caps; and thus was a friendly intercourse
established with these people.
In a short time upwards of a hundred boats surrounded the French ships,
which were laden with bananas, cocoa-nuts, and various other kinds of
fruit, highly acceptable to the French, who gave in exchange for them a
number of toys, which proved equally acceptable to the Indians.--In
order to carry on this traffic, our voyagers held up such articles as
they meant to give for the fruit, and when the natives were satisfied
with the quantity which was offered, it was let down by the ship’s side
in a net or basket, and the Indians having taken it out, returned their
commodities by the same conveyance; but sometimes the basket was lowered
when empty, and the natives put their effects in it before they had
received the European goods, without seeming to harbour the least
distrust or jealousy of those with whom they dealt; thereby giving the
best proof of the integrity of their own hearts.
When the evening advanced, the ships stood out farther from the coast,
and the natives rowed back to the shore. During the night a number of
fires were seen on the island, at small, and nearly equal distances from
each other, which the French imagining to be illuminations in honour of
themselves, a number of sky-rockets were fired from both the ships, to
return the compliment.
On the morning of the fifth the boats were sent in search of an
anchoring-place, while the day was spent in plying to windward of the
island.
The description which Mons. Bougainville gives of the appearance of this
place, as seen from the ships, is very beautiful. The mountains, though
of great height, are every where clothed with the finest verdure, even
to the extreme point of their most lofty summits: one peak, in
particular, runs up to a most enormous height, tapering gradually as it
rises; yet is it every where clothed with the most beautiful foliage,
forming the appearance of a pyramid adorned with garlands, and carved by
the hand of an ingenious sculptor. The lower lands consist of an
intermixture of woods and meadows, while the coast is a level ground,
sheltered by the mountains, and abounding in cocoa-nut and other trees,
beneath the agreeable shade of which are situated the houses of the
inhabitants.
As Mons. Bougainville coasted the island, he was charmed with the
appearance of a noble cascade, which, falling immediately from the
summit of a mountain, into the sea, produced a most elegant effect. On
the shore, very near to the fall of this cascade, was a little town, and
the coast appeared to be free from breakers. It was the wish of our
adventurers to have cast their anchors within view of such an enchanting
prospect; but, after repeated soundings, they found that the bottom
consisted only of rocks; and they were therefore under a necessity of
seeking another anchoring-place.
Soon after the dawn of day the natives rowed along-side the ships,
bringing with them fowls, pigeons, cloth, shells, chissels, and other
things, which they bartered for ear-rings, and pieces of iron. Both
parties dealt with the same ease and mutual confidence as they had done
on the preceding day; and among the number of visitors were several
women, whose cloaths barely sufficed to hide those charms which could
not fail of attracting the ravished eyes of the seamen. One of the
Indians slept all night on board the Etoile, and seemed not to entertain
a shadow of fear.
The ships plied to windward during the night, and by the morning of the
6th they had nearly reached its most northern extremity, when they
discovered another island; but as the passage between the two islands
appeared to be rendered dangerous by a number of breakers, Mons.
Bougainville came to a resolution of returning to the bay which they had
seen when they first discovered land, where he hoped to find a
convenient anchoring-place, and where, after different soundings, the
ships were at length safely moored.
The natives now put off in their boats, and surrounded the ships in
greater numbers than they had yet done, exhibiting many tokens of
regard, and perpetually crying out _Taio_, which was afterwards found to
signify _Friend_. The strangers were much pleased with some nails and
toys which the officers and sailors gave them. These boats were crouded
with women, whose beauty of face was at least equal to that of the
ladies of Europe, and their symmetry of body much superior. Almost all
of them were naked, the old men and women having taken previous care to
divest them of those coverings, which might otherwise have prevented
their charms from taking the wished effect.
These lovely lasses eyed the sailors with looks the most emphatically
expressive, yet with a degree of timidity, which is at once the
characteristic and the ornament of the sex. It was not, however,
necessary, that these females should give any very plain indications of
their meaning:--the Indian men saved them this trouble, intimating, that
the favours of the ladies might be purchased on easy terms: they even
urged many of the seamen respectively to make choice of a Dulcinea, with
whom he would chuse to retire to the shore; and their gestures appeared
not less extravagant than those of the same people, as recited by Dr.
Hawkesworth, in his account of Captain Cook’s Voyage, of which
circumstance the readers of these volumes is already apprised:--but
Mons. Bougainville goes beyond the Doctor, in the colouring of this
scene. He says that, “even in those countries where the ease of the
golden age is still in use, women seem least to desire what they most
wish for.”
Be this as it may, the sight of these enchanting damsels operated very
powerfully on the passions of the seamen; and, thus situated, it was no
easy matter to keep to their duty, four hundred young fellows, who had
not seen a woman for half a year before.
Mons. Bougainville and his officers did all in their power to preserve
order and decorum, and to prevent any of these tempting creatures from
coming into the ship; but their efforts were unsuccessful:--one of them,
notwithstanding every precaution, got on board, and took her seat on the
quarter-deck, near a hatchway, which was open to give air to some of the
crew who were heaving the capstern. She had scarcely seated herself,
when she let fall a cloth that covered her, with an air of negligence;
and appeared at once the Cyprian goddess, to the ravished eyes of the
spectators. Both seamen and marines now eagerly crouded to the hatchway;
and the capstern was heaved with a chearfulness and expedition never
known on any former occasion.
After some time the officers succeeded in bringing the crew into some
kind of order; though, as Mons. Bougainville confesses, they found it
equally difficult to restrain the ardor of their own passions.--The
Commodore’s Cook, having eluded the vigilance of the officers, got from
the ship, and having selected a mistress from one of the boats, went on
shore with her; where he had no sooner arrived, than the natives crouded
about him, and pulled off all his cloaths. They now examined, with
curious attention, every part of his body, while he stood trembling
under their hands, in continual apprehension of being murdered, or
otherwise abused: but his fears were ill-founded; for they had no sooner
finished the examination, than they gave him back his cloaths, put into
his pockets several things which they had taken out of them, and then
introduced his girl to him, urging, that he would gratify those passions
which had impelled him to come on shore: but alas! their persuasions,
their warmest intreaties, were thrown away;--his fears had destroyed all
ideas of love, nor could even the enchanting beauty of his mistress
recal them: the natives were obliged to take him back to the ship, where
he told Mons. Bougainville, that he had nothing to fear from his anger,
for he had lately suffered such exquisite misery, that all other
punishment would be comparatively light.
Mons. Bougainville and some of his officers now went on shore to take a
view of the watering-place, and were no sooner landed, than the natives
flocked around them in prodigious numbers, regarding them with looks of
inexpressible curiosity: some of them, bolder than the rest, came and
touched the French, and put aside their cloaths, to find if they were
formed like themselves. The happy islanders, who wore no kind of arms,
testified great pleasure at this visit of our voyagers.
A person, who appeared to be the principal man among the Indians, took
Mons. Bougainville’s party to his house, where they found an old man,
the father of the Chief, and several women. These last paid their
compliments to the strangers, by placing their hands on their breasts,
and frequently repeating the word _Tayo_. The old man was a truly
venerable figure, whose long white beard and hair added dignity to his
person, which was exceedingly graceful and well formed. He had none of
the decrepitude of age, no wrinkles on his face, and his body was
nervous and fleshy.--The behaviour of this man was wholly different from
that of all the rest of his countrymen; for he expressed no sign of
admiration or curiosity, left the room without returning the compliments
of his visitors, and with an air that testified his uneasiness at their
arrival. Mons. Bougainville even imagines, that he feared that a new
race of men coming to settle on the island, might disturb that happy
repose in which its inhabitants had hitherto lived.
The house of the Chief was about twenty feet in width, and eighty in
length, and covered with thatch, from which hung a cylinder, above a
yard long, formed of the twigs of the ozier, and adorned with black
feathers. Two wooden figures were observed, which Mons. Bougainville
says were idols, and that one of them was the god of the natives; but in
this he must be certainly mistaken, as it appears from the account since
published, that the inhabitants of Otaheite are not idolaters:--but from
almost every part of his volume it is evident, that he has made his
observations very hastily, and given a decisive opinion on subjects
which he did not understand, and which he took very little pains to
examine.
The figure which our author took for the god, was fixed upright against
one of the pillars of the house, and over against it stood the other,
which he calls the goddess, leaning against, and fastened to the reeds
which form the walls of the house. These figures stood on pedestals of
hard, black wood, about two yards high, one yard in circumference,
shaped like a tower, hollowed out, and carved.
The Chief having directed his guests to seat themselves on a grass-plat
in the front of his house, he presented them with a collation,
consisting of broiled fish, water, and fruit. While they were regaling
themselves he produced two collars, formed of oziers, and adorned with
shark’s teeth, and black feathers. These collars, which resembled the
prodigious large ruffs worn by the French in the reign of Francis the
First, were put on the necks of Mons. Bougainville, and a gentleman of
his party. The Chief having likewise presented our author with some
pieces of cloth, the French were about to take their leave of this
hospitable Indian, when one of them found that his pocket had been
picked of his pistol; on which a complaint was made to the Chief, who
immediately reprimanded several of his houshold, and would have searched
them all; but this the Commodore would not permit, contenting himself
with intimating to the Chief, that the weapon which had been stolen
would kill the thief.
Mons. Bougainville was attended to the coast by the Chief and his whole
family. As the company passed along, they observed an Indian, remarkable
for the fine proportion and symmetry of his figure, reclined at the foot
of a tree, who prevailed on the French to sit down by him, and sung them
an excellent song, to the slow music of a flute, which the other Indian
blew with his nose. Our author says this song was, doubtless, of the
anacreontic kind, but he assigns no reason for this opinion. This is
described as a most delightful scene, and well worthy the pencil of the
limner.
The company now proceeded to their boats, in which a few of the Indians
embarked, and went to spend the evening and sleep on board. The
islanders seemed to be under no kind of restraint, but to have the
fullest confidence in the hospitality of the French, who treated them in
a very elegant manner, and concluded the evening with a band of music,
and a display of fire-works; at which, however, the Indians, seemed more
terrified than delighted.
The Chief went on board Mons. Bougainville’s ship the following day, and
took with him a present of some fowls and a hog: he likewise gave a full
proof of the integrity of his heart, by returning the stolen pistol; but
this is no wonder; it may hold as an almost unfailing maxim, that “the
generous are always just; that the knavish part of mankind are to be
found among the sordid and avaricious.” The generous soul disdains every
act of meanness; and it is certainly an act of meanness to detain the
property of another. Doubtless, the history of mankind will afford some
instances which militate very strongly against this argument; but it
will usually be found, that when the man of liberal sentiments has
detained what he knew to be the property of another, such detention has
arisen from the extreme penury of his own circumstances.--We have
instances of robberies being committed on the highway, and the money
returned, years after the perpetration of the fact. In such a case,
surely, the robber must be allowed to have possessed an honest heart,
even while he was violating the laws of his country; that his principles
were just and generous; and that what he conceived to be a case of
extreme necessity; the support of his sinking credit, and the preserving
a beloved, an amiable woman, and the dear pledges of her love, from
inevitable poverty and ruin, was the occasion of his taking so
unwarrantable a step. The reader will excuse this digression, in favour
to the writer, who conceived that it arose naturally from the subject.
The name of the Chief, whose conduct gave rise to the above reflections,
was ERETI, who remained on board several hours, and then went on shore
with Mons. Bougainville, who by this time had made the necessary
preparations for landing the sick, and filling the water casks.
As soon as the boats had landed, the Commodore fixed on a spot on the
borders of a rivulet, where he gave orders for the forming of a camp,
for the protection as well of the sick men and their attendants, as of
the waterers, and others, whose business might call them on shore.
For some time Ereti beheld the marines under arms, and regarded the
preparations which were making to form the camp, without any apparent
signs of uneasiness, and then took his leave. In a few hours, however,
he returned, bringing with him his father, and some others of the most
eminent men on that part of the island, who remonstrated with Mons.
Bougainville on the impropriety and injustice of his taking possession
of their country; at the same time intimating, that his people were
welcome to be on the island during the day, for any period of time he
might think proper, but insisting, that the party should return on board
every night. The Commodore, on the contrary, as peremptorily insisted
that he would form the encampment, and endeavoured to convince the
Indians how necessary it was that he should do so, in order to procure
wood and water, and to have the better opportunity of trafficking with
the islanders.
The Indians now retired, and held a conference on the occasion, at the
close of which Ereti came to Mons. Bougainville, and desired to know
whether the French proposed to take up their residence on the island for
life; and, if not, how long they intended to stay.--In answer to this,
the Commodore put eighteen small stones into his hands, intimating, that
he should remain there only so many days. Hereupon a third council was
held, the result of which was, that an elderly man, of great authority,
was deputed to wait on the Commodore, and endeavour to prevail on him to
depart in nine days; which however he positively refused to do, and thus
the matter ended.
From this period the islanders became again easy and happy. Ereti
complimented Mons. Bougainville with the use of a large building, that
had been erected on the side of the rivulet, for the purpose of laying
up the Indian boats, which were instantly removed, at the command of the
Chief. Under this building tents were put up for the accommodation of
the sick, and other tents for various uses. A sufficient number of
muskets were carried on shore, to arm thirty marines, all the workmen,
and even the invalids, in case of necessity.
Mons. Bougainville passed the first night on shore, in company with
Ereti, who added his supper to that of the Commodore, invited a few
select friends to partake of the repast, and gave orders that a croud of
Indians, whose curiosity had brought them to the spot, should be
dispersed. He then desired to see some fire-works, which he beheld with
a mixture of pleasure and astonishment. Late in the evening he sent for
one of his wives, who slept in the tent allotted to the use of the
Prince of Nassau. Mons. Bougainville says, that this woman was ugly and
old; but how does he know that she was not the only wife of Ereti? It
does not follow, because a number of women were seen on the first visit
at the house of this Chief, that he was married to them all. They might
be daughters, sisters, aunts, nieces, or cousins, for any thing that
could be known to the contrary, by people who had not learnt three words
of the language of the natives.
The camp was compleated on the following day, and the building entirely
enclosed, except at one entrance, where a guard was constantly
stationed. None of the Indians were admitted into this building but
Ereti, and his friends of both sexes. A croud of people were constantly
about the place, but they made way for any one who had permission to
enter, on the motion of a small stick which a Frenchman held in his
hand. To this place the natives assembled from all quarters, bringing
poultry, hogs, fish, fruit, and cloth; in exchange for which they
received buttons, beads, tools, nails, and trinkets of various kinds, on
which they appeared to set a high value.
These benevolent islanders vied with each other which should oblige
their visitors most; and when the French were observed collecting
shells, and gathering plants, a number of women and children instantly
employed themselves in the same manner, bringing the same plants, in
great abundance, and variety of fine shells.
Mons. Bougainville now applied to Ereti, for information where he might
cut wood, and was directed to the mountains, where the hard wood grows,
the low lands producing only a gum-tree, and fruit-trees of various
kinds. The Chief even marked the trees which were proper for cutting,
and pointed out the side on which they should be felled.
The islanders assisted our adventurers in cutting the wood, and carrying
it down to the boats, and likewise helped them to fill water, and roll
the casks to the coast. For these services they received a number of
nails, proportioned to the industry they had exerted: but it was
necessary for the French to be constantly on their guard, to prevent
their thieving the articles which were brought on shore; nor were even
their pockets safe from the depredations of these people, who, Mons.
Bougainville says, are as ingenious in the art, as the pick-pockets of
Europe; which is certainly no great compliment to the people of
Otaheite.
Mons. Bougainville supposes, that these islanders do not rob each other,
as none of their effects were kept under locks and keys; and he
attributes their frequent attempts to rob the French to an insatiable
curiosity for articles which they had never before seen. Guards were
stationed, and patroles appointed, to protect the French property
notwithstanding which, the islanders found means to steal several
things, and they even pelted the guards with stones. These free-booters
hid themselves in a marsh behind the camp, which was overgrown with
reeds: but a part of this marsh was cleared, by order of the Commodore,
who directed, that when any more thieves were seen, they should be fired
at. Ereti even hinted, that this measure was necessary; but, pointing to
his own house, seemed very solicitous that Mons. Bougainville would not
fire that way. Orders were now given for some of the ships boats to
anchor before the camp, and point their swivel guns so as to protect it.
The article of thieving excepted, every other intercourse between the
French and Indians was carried on in the most harmonious manner. The
seamen made several incursions into the island, unarmed, sometimes in
small parties, and sometimes singly: when the natives invited them into
their houses, gave them provisions, and presented the young damsels to
their embraces. On these occasions the hut was instantly crouded with
numbers of both sexes, who surrounded the young lovers, and eyed them
with looks of the most intense curiosity. Leaves and flowers were
immediately strewed on the ground, and while some played on flutes,
others sang a kind of song sacred to the Cyprian goddess.
Mons. Bougainville’s picture of these scenes is rather over-charged; but
the pen of the historian should be guided by truth. “Here Venus (says
he) is the goddess of hospitality; her worship does not admit of any
mysteries, and every tribute paid to her is a feast for the whole
nation.”
The people of Otaheite seemed astonished at the embarrassment of some of
the Frenchmen on these occasions: but Mons. Bougainville is of opinion,
that there was not a man of the whole crew who had not got the better of
the European delicacy, by making a public sacrifice at the altar of
Venus. If this opinion be well founded, the poor Cook, whose case has
been related, must have wonderfully recovered of his fright, before the
Commodore left the island.--Surely these intrepid subjects of Louis the
Fifteenth must have been blest with the most vigorous constitutions in
the universe, or have been cursed with the most unblushing impudence of
face! That many of the crew should have got the better of all regard for
decency, is not to be wondered at; but that there should not be one
Frenchman out of four hundred who could resist the temptation of thus
publickly prostituting himself, is very astonishing. But vanity is
constitutional in a Parisian, and rather than not sacrifice at her
shrine, he will be content to rob himself of his own good name.
It may fairly be concluded, that if _every_ man gave these public proofs
of his prowess, the Commodore himself made _one_ of the number, a naked
spectacle to the laughing Indians! But perhaps Mons. Bougainville was
honoured in the embraces of one of Ereti’s wives; in which case it is
presumed, that the fond couple were surrounded only by the royal family,
and the lords and ladies of the Court. Doubtless, an extraordinary band
of music must have been provided on these solemn occasions, and the best
nose-flute-players on the island must have been engaged as performers.
What pity it is that our gallant philosophical, nautical, warlike
Amoroso, has omitted a description of one of these charming scenes! A
print of it, too, would have done honour to some ingenious engraver of
Paris, and it would doubtless have promoted the sale of a work so
admirably calculated for the meridian of Versailles. The doating monarch
would have subscribed liberally, while the lascivious Barré would have
extolled to the very skies the writer’s happy talent at description. Who
knows too, but that the French Ambassador might have introduced the work
among the circle at St. James’s; and thus have promoted the cause of
libertinism so far, that not one of the nobility of the succeeding
generation should be the real child of his reputed father.
To be serious; this is strange stuff, even for a French historian to
write; nor would we have copied it, but that our engagements to the
public compelled us to give Mons. Bougainville’s Voyage; and Mons.
Bougainville must be answerable for all its faults.
Happy ought Englishmen to think themselves; particularly those of the
middling and lower classes, among whom marriage is still held in some
sort of esteem. Long may it be so held, for the honour of legal love,
the security of property, and the sake of those tender ties, by which
relations are held in the bond of friendship!
Hail wedded love, mysterious law, true source
Of human offspring, sole propriety
In Paradise of all things common else.
By thee adult’rous lust was driven from men,
Among the bestial herds to range; by thee
Founded in reason, loyal, just, and pure,
Relations dear, and all the charities
Of father, son, and brother, first were known.
MILTON.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a description of the beauties of the
interior parts of the island. He has often walked out, with only a few
attendants, and arrived at places enchanting beyond the power of pen or
pencil to paint. Trees abounding with fruit of the most delicious kinds,
were frequently found on meadows intersected by rivulets, which gave an
agreeable coolness to the air. On these enchanting spots numbers of the
natives revel in the profusive gifts of nature, unincumbered with the
cares of the busy world. Our author met with many little societies,
reposing at their ease, under the shade of trees, who welcomed the
strangers in the most friendly manner. Those he saw on his way made room
for his passage, with a degree of civility that would have done honour
to the most polished European; and in every place he found evident marks
of the content and happiness of the people; while he was treated with
the utmost hospitality.
Mons. Bougainville gave Ereti some ducks and geese, and a couple of
turkies, that he might raise a breed of those birds. He likewise
presented him with some garden seeds, and advised him to cultivate some
ground in the European manner; and a spot being fixed on by the French,
it was enclosed, and several of the crew employed in digging it. The
natives were much pleased with the implements of gardening, and happy in
having wheat, barley, oats, rice, &c. put into the ground; as were
likewise onions, and a variety of pot-herbs. The Commodore is of
opinion, that his generosity in this particular will not be thrown away,
as the people of Otaheite seem to have a taste for agriculture; and he
thinks they might soon be brought to cultivate, in a proper manner the
finest soil in the world: they have indeed a sort of kitchen gardens
near their huts, which produce yams, potatoes, and other edible roots.
Soon after the camp was formed, the Commodore was visited on board the
ship by _Toutaa_, the Chief of a district near that of Ereti, who was a
very tall man, and most admirably well made, he was attended by several
gentlemen, hardly one of whom was less than six feet in height. Toutaa
brought with him cloth, hogs, fowls and fruit, which he presented to
Mons. Bougainville, who complimented him with some silk stuffs,
trinkets, nails, &c.
Toutaa invited Mons. Bougainville to his house, where, in the midst of a
large assembly, he presented him with a fine young girl, whom the
Commodore conjectures to have been one of his wives; and the musicians
instantly began the bridal hymn:--but our author does not say what
farther passed on the occasion.
One of the Indians happening to be killed, his countrymen complained to
Mons. Bougainville of this violation of the rights of hospitality. The
dead body being conveyed to one of the huts, some persons were sent to
examine it, when it appeared, that he had fell by a gun-shot wound; on
which all possible enquiry was made after the offender, but he could not
be discovered; and how he came to be shot remained a mystery; for Mons.
Bougainville says, that none of the crew had that day left the ship with
fire-arms, nor had any of those on shore been permitted to leave the
camp. It was evident, however, that the natives in general conceived
their countryman to have been the aggressor; for their dealings with the
Europeans were not intermitted; but some few of them moved off their
furniture to the mountains, and even the house of Ereti was stripped;
but a few presents from the Commodore regained his friendship and
esteem.
Early in the morning of the 12th the cable of the Boudeuse parting, that
ship ran foul of the Etoile, but the vessels were happily got clear of
each other, before any damage had been sustained. A boat was now sent to
sound for some convenient passage, as the ships were in evident danger
of being driven on shore: and at this unfortunate juncture news arrived,
that three of the Indians had been either murdered or wounded in their
huts; and that, in consequence of this unhappy circumstance, a general
terror had seized the inhabitants. The women, children, and old men, had
fled up the country, taking their effects with them, and even carrying
off the bodies of the deceased. The Commodore, on receiving this
intelligence, went on shore, and selecting four marines, on whom rested
the suspicion of having perpetrated this foul deed, he ordered them to
be put into irons in the presence of Ereti, a circumstance that
re-conciliated the affection of the Indians.
Mons. Bougainville, apprehensive that the natives might revenge the
injury they had sustained in the persons of their countrymen, spent a
considerable part of the night at the camp, and gave orders for a
reinforcement of the guards. It is true, that the situation of the
French was every way so advantageous, that, in all probability, they
might have been an over-match for the united forces of the natives. The
night, however, was spent in perfect repose, except some slight alarms,
occasioned by thieving interlopers.
The Commodore’s concern arose more from the apprehended loss of his
ships, than from any hostile efforts that might be made by the Indians.
After ten at night the wind blew violently; the sea swelled to an
enormous height; the rain descended in torrents, and the whole scene was
tempestuous in a high degree.
Mons. Bougainville went on board soon after midnight, when a violent
squall of wind was driving the ships towards the shore. Providentially
the storm was soon over, and a breeze from the shore prevented the
vessels being stranded.
About day-break another cable, and the hawser of the Boudeuse parted,
when she was almost close on the shore, on which the surges beat with
unremitting fury. At this time too, as an aggravation of their
misfortunes, the buoys of the anchors were missing; but it is doubtful
whether the natives had stolen them, or whether they had sunk.
Some little time before noon another cable parted, and the Boudeuse
drove towards the shore. They now let go their sheet anchor, but it
could be of no service to them, as they were so near the breakers, that
the ship must have stranded before a sufficient length of cable could
have been veered out, to have given the anchor time to reach the bottom.
Thus situated, within a moment of despair, a wind off shore operated in
their favour; yet this wind soon changed, though not till it had enabled
them to get at a distance from the shore, by the help of a hawser, from
a stream-anchor of the Etoile, which ship happening to be anchored in
firmer ground than the Boudeuse, was, under providence, the great means
of saving that vessel and her crew from destruction. On occasion of this
singular escape, Mons. Bougainville pays a grateful compliment to Mons.
de la Giraudais, the Commander of the Etoile, to whose friendship and
abilities he deems himself greatly indebted for the preservation of the
Boudeuse.
Soon after day-light it was observed, that the camp was totally
destitute of its usual visitors: not an Indian was to be seen near it,
nor even a single boat sailing on the river. The natives had quitted
their houses, and the whole country appeared to be depopulated. The
prince of Nassau now went on shore with a small party, and, at about
three miles from the camp, found Ereti, with a considerable number of
his subjects. When the Chief recollected the Prince, he advanced towards
him with a mixed countenance, expressive of hope and terror.
Many women were now with Ereti, who dropping on their knees at the feet
of the Prince kissed his hands, and, bathed in tears, exclaimed, _Tayo,
maté_?
You are our friends, and you kill us!--
The Prince succeeded in his endeavours to inspire them with fresh
confidence; and Mons. Bougainville had the pleasure of observing, from
on board, by the help of his glasses, that the natives hastened to the
camp, carrying with them fowls, fruits, &c. so that there could be no
doubt but that peace was re-established.
The Commodore instantly left the ship, and taking with him a quantity of
silk stuffs, and a variety of other articles, he presented them to the
principal persons, intimating how unhappy he was on account of the
misfortune which had happened, and assuring them, that the perpetrators
of so foul a deed should not escape unpunished.--The grateful Indians
caressed the Commander; the natives in general were happy that peace was
restored, and the market soon became more crouded than ever; so that, in
two days only, more refreshments were brought in than had been before,
and the whole place had the appearance of a fair. The Indians now
requested to see some muskets fired; but were not a little alarmed, when
they found that the animals fired at were instantly killed.
The boat which the Commodore had sent to sound having found an excellent
passage to the northward, the Etoile sailed on the 14th, and being got
safe without the reef, her Commander sent the boat to the Boudeuse, in
which was an officer, who having surveyed the passage, and conducted the
Etoile to a place of safety, returned to take the same care of Mons.
Bougainville’s ship.
The crew of the Boudeuse now laboured incessantly in compleating her
stock of water, and in bringing her effects on board. The Commodore took
possession of the island, for his Sovereign, by an inscription carved on
an oak plank, and burying in a bottle, near the building they had
occupied, a writing, containing the names of the several officers
concerned in this expedition: and this method he followed invariably, at
all the places he discovered in the course of his voyage.
The Boudeuse set sail early in the morning of the 15th, and the
Commodore congratulated himself on having got clear of the reefs, when
the wind suddenly dying away, the tide, and a swelling sea drove the
ship violently towards the rocks, on which she must have been instantly
dashed in pieces, and every man on board have perished, except the few
who could swim remarkably well. At this moment, when she was ready to
strike on the rocks, providentially a western breeze sprang up, and, in
about two hours, conveyed our voyagers clear of all those dangers they
had dreaded.
Mons. Bougainville joined the Etoile before the evening, and a strong
gale springing up about midnight, they set all their sails, and soon got
perfectly clear of the coast.
Our author now describes, in very affecting terms, what passed at his
taking leave of the people of Otaheite; and we shall endeavour not to
fall short of the original, in the tenderness of the description;
convinced that the English language is at least as well adapted for the
pathetic, as the French, or any other European tongue.
Soon after the dawn of the morning, when the Indians observed that their
visitors were making preparations for their departure, Ereti came
hastily on board, in the first boat that was ready. He now clasped in
his arms, embraced, and wept over those new-made acquaintance, whom he
was about to part with for ever.--This scene was scarcely ended, when a
larger boat, in which were the wives of this generous Chief, came
along-side the ship, laden with a variety of refreshments.
This vessel likewise brought off the Indian, who, on their first
arrival, had slept on board the Etoile. This man was called AOTOUROU.
Ereti presented him to Mons. Bougainville, intimating his determined
resolution to sail with the strangers, and intreating permission that he
might do so. This request being complied with, Ereti presented him to
the officers respectively, saying, that he trusted a well-beloved
friend, to the care and protection of friends equally beloved.
Ereti having accepted some presents, returned to the boat, in which were
a number of weeping beauties, made still more lovely by their
tears.--With him went Aotourou, to take a melancholy leave of a lovely
damsel, the dear object of his regard. He took three pearls from his
ears, which he delivered as a love-token to the desponding beauty;
embraced her affectionately, tore himself from her arms, and left it to
time and tears, to restore her serenity of mind.--Who that reads this
narrative can suppose, that an Indian has less dignity of soul than an
European!
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a description of the island of
Otaheite, with an account of the manners and characters of its
inhabitants; and in this part of his history we shall trace him with the
pen of accuracy.
There is a fine bay, about ten miles in depth, between a cape, which
advances to the north, and the south-east point of the island. Towards
the bottom of this bay the coast is almost level, and this part appears
to be the best peopled, as well as the most agreeable part of the
country. In a passage between the two most northerly islands, there is
good anchorage for thirty vessels. The rest of the coast is mountainous
land, and in most places is encompassed by reefs of rocks, some of which
are almost covered by the sea, while others are left sufficiently
destitute of water to be considered as islands. On these the natives
kindle fires every night, that the crews of their boats may fish in
safety. Between these rocks are spaces, through which a ship may enter,
but will find it difficult to get anchorage.
The mountains at a distance from the coast are much higher than it is
usual for hills to be in countries of no greater extent. These, being
covered with verdure and fruits of various beautiful and delicious
kinds, afford the richest prospect that the imagination can form an idea
of. Springs, issuing from the mountains, form themselves into rivulets,
which meandring through the country, serve at once to fertilize and
adorn it.
On the level parts of the island the houses are erected, under the shade
of fruit trees; not in regular towns or villages, but separately, and
where the fancy of the owner shall fix the spot. Public walks, kept in
the neatest order, lead from one residence to another, throughout the
island, so that the whole appears one scene of enchanted ground.
The principal fruits of the island are plantains, cocoa-nuts, yams,
curassol okras, and the bread-fruit. Indico and sugar-canes grow wild;
and two substances proper for dying, one red and the other yellow, was
found among the natives; but Mons. Bougainville could not learn from
what vegetable they were produced.
While Aotourou was on board the Boudeuse, it appeared, that he was
acquainted with many of the plants and fruits in the possession of the
French, which he called by their Indian names. Indeed, the same
productions are common to most countries within the tropics.
The natives use the cedar-wood, which grows on the mountains, for the
construction of the largest boats; and they make a sort of pikes, of a
very heavy black wood. Their smaller boats are made of the wood of the
bread-fruit tree, which is extremely soft, and full of gum.
The island of Otaheite produces very rich pearls, which are worn by the
women and children; but these were secreted almost as soon as the French
landed, and were seen no more during their stay. A sort of castanets,
instruments used by the Indian dancers, are formed out of the shells of
the pearl-oysters.
The only quadrupedes seen on the island were hogs, small but handsome
dogs; and rats; the last of which are very numerous. Of winged animals
there are parroquets of exquisite beauty, the feathers of which are red
and blue, most happily blended: pidgeons, rather larger than ours, of a
deep blue colour, and most delicate taste: and common domestic poultry,
differing in no respect from those of Europe. The hogs and fowls feed on
plantains only, so that the purity of their food must ensure the
goodness of the meat.
Mons. Bougainville obtained, by his traffick with the natives, about 140
hogs, and more than eight hundred fowls; and he might have procured much
larger numbers, if his stay had been longer.
No venomous animals were seen on this island, nor any of those noxious
insects, which are common to, and are the greatest curse of, hot
climates.
There can remain no doubt of the salubrity of the air of Otaheite; for
though the French laboured hard all day in the heat of the sun, and were
frequently in the water, and slept all night in the open air, on the
bare ground, not a single person contracted any disorder; while those
who were landed for the cure of the scurvy recovered very fast, and many
of them acquired so much strength, that their cure was perfected on
board the ships.
Our author mentions, as an undoubted proof of the healthiness of the
climate, the strength of its inhabitants, who grow to an extreme old
age, without feeling any of its inconveniences, though they sleep only
on a few leaves, strewed on the ground, in huts ill adapted to defend
them from the inclemencies of the weather.
The chief articles of food among the natives are fish and vegetables.
Flesh is seldom eaten even by grown persons; and by the young women and
children never. Their drink is pure water; and from this temperance
doubtless arises, in a great measure, that freedom from disease, which
is one of their greatest blessings. These people were averse to the
taste and smell of every thing strong; particularly tobacco, spices,
brandy and wine.
The natives of Otaheite are of two distinct tribes, having no personal
resemblance, yet practising the same customs, associating together in
the most friendly manner, and conversing in the same dialect. The first
race of these people are much taller, larger, and better proportioned
than the other. Few of these are less than six feet high, and so
extremely well made, that, as our author says, “in order to paint a
Hercules or a Mars, one could no where find such beautiful models.”
Their features are perfectly like those of the inhabitants of Europe:
their hair is black, and their skins rather brown; but this is
attributed to their being so much exposed to the sun and air. Mons.
Bougainville does not say which of the European nations they resemble,
and therefore it must be concluded, that he means the French; in which
case an English lady would scarcely give him credit for the extravagant
encomiums which he lavishes on the beauty of the Otaheiteans; on the
contrary, she will be apt to conclude, that better models for a Hercules
or a Mars may be found between Berwick upon Tweed, and the lands-end in
Cornwall.
The other tribe of these Indians are about the middle stature, have
almost the features and complexion of Mulattoes, and rough, curled hair,
as strong as the bristles of a hog. Aotourou was of this tribe, and the
son of one of the Chiefs of the island.
Our author says that this Indian’s want of personal beauty, was amply
recompensed by the goodness of his understanding; but this assertion has
been flatly contradicted by the testimony of several English gentlemen,
who saw Aotourou, during his residence at Paris, and who represent him
as one of the most ignorant blockheads they had ever known. Hence it
should seem, that English and French ideas are extremely at variance,
respecting Indian abilities and attainments.
Both the tribes shave the upper part of the face, permitting the beard
on the chin to grow, and a whisker on each lip. Some of them bind the
hair on the top of the head, while others cut it short, but all of them
rub the oil of the cocoa-nut into the hair and beard. They permit all
their nails to grow to a great length, except that of the middle finger
of the right hand. Among these people one cripple only was seen; and it
was supposed that he got his hurt by a fall. The Surgeon informed Mons.
Bougainville, that many of the natives were marked with the small pox:
and he says, he took every precaution that the venereal disorder should
not be communicated to these happy, unoffending people; but it appears
from Captain Cook’s account, that some ungenerous Frenchman was base
enough to plant this dreadful malady, in a country where, from Mons.
Bougainville’s own account, it is more likely to spread than in any
other part of the world, on account of the extreme attachment of the
inhabitants to the Cytherean sports.--Aotourou is probably arrived at
his native country before this time, and has informed the islanders that
their late visitors were Frenchmen; in which case the poor Indians will
have ample reason to call the disorder by its genuine name, the FRENCH
disease.
The ladies and gentlemen of Otaheite stain the lower parts of their
backs, and their thighs, with a deep blue; the method of doing which
having been already mentioned in our account of Captain Cook’s voyage,
need not be here repeated. Mons. Bougainville mentions it as a singular
circumstance, that the practice of painting the body has always
prevailed among the people of all countries, at the time when they
bordered on a state of nature: it is, indeed, a well known fact, that
the ancient Britons were found stained with wood, when Julius Cæsar made
his first descent on this island.
The natives of Otaheite wear pearls, and flowers of different kinds, in
their ears. They likewise make a frequent practice of bathing their
bodies, constantly washing themselves before they either eat or drink;
so that they are to be ranked among the most cleanly people in the
universe.
Our author represents these islanders as good-natured and benevolent in
a high degree. He says, that, though the several districts are governed
each by its own Chief, public war, or private animosity seemed to be
equally unknown on the island. The natives seem not to entertain even
the slightest doubt of the integrity of each other, and appear to enjoy,
in common, whatever is necessary to the support of life. Their houses
are always open night and day, and whoever enters may freely eat of
whatever he finds. In like manner they gather fruit from every tree; and
all the level country being a kind of continued orchard, seems to be but
one common property.
Yet were these people, with such exalted ideas of general benevolence,
most dextrous in stealing the property of the French. The Chiefs,
however, did not encourage their inferiors in these depredations; on the
contrary, they requested the officers to kill those who should be
detected in an act of theft: but they would never take this disagreeable
talk on themselves.--When a thief was pointed out to Ereti, he would run
after till he had overtaken him, and then compelling him to restore the
stolen goods, he punished the offence by a number of stripes.
Mons. Bougainville says, he had conceived an idea, that these people had
no severer punishment among them than this kind of whipping; for they
seemed to commiserate the fate of some of the French seamen, whom they
saw put in irons; but our author has been since informed, that they have
a custom of punishing theft, by hanging the felon on a tree.
Although the inhabitants of Otaheite maintain perpetual peace among
themselves; yet it seldom happens, but that they are engaged in war with
the natives of the adjacent islands.
They have large vessels, called Periaguas, in which they descend on the
enemies country, and even engage in sea-fights. A pike and a bow with a
sling are all their arms.
If Aotourou’s information is to be depended on, the consequences of
their battles are very fatal to the vanquished. The men and boys who are
made prisoners, are stripped of their skins, and the beards of the men
are taken off, and carried away in triumph, as ensigns of the victory.
The conquerors take with them the women and girls, with whom they
frequently cohabit--Aotourou declared himself the son of one of these
unnatural alliances, his mother being a native of OOPOA, an island not
far distant from Otaheite, with the inhabitants of which they are
frequently at war. Mons. Bougainville ascribes the difference observed
between the two races of people, to this intercourse with the captive
women of the adjacent islands.
The principal people on the island have a number of servants, who submit
to their orders with the most unreserved obedience; and, in each
district, the will of the Chief is a law, from the authority of which
there is no appeal; but the Chief himself does not come to any
resolution respecting matters of great importance, till he has
previously consulted with the principal inhabitants. The reader will
recollect, that the truth of this circumstance is evinced, by the
repeated counsels which were held on occasion of the French having
determined to take up their residence on shore.
When an inhabitant of Otaheite dies, his body is deposited on a kind of
bier, placed under a shed, to which the women resort daily, and anoint
the corpse with the oil of the cocoa-nut. In these places they are left,
till all the flesh is wasted from the bones, and then the skeleton is
conveyed to the hut of his relations, where a person, who appears to
have great authority, attends, and being dressed in a habit peculiar to
the occasion, he performs some solemn ceremonies: but how long the
skeletons are kept in the houses, our author had no opportunity of
knowing.
Mons. Bougainville endeavoured to learn of Aotourou the religious
ceremonies of his countrymen; and, if they mutually understood each
other, it will appear, that the people of Otaheite are superstitious in
a high degree; that the supreme authority is vested in the priests; that
their principal Deity is called ERI-T-ERA, that is, _King of Light_, or
_of the Sun_; besides whom they acknowledge a number of inferior
divinities, some of whom produce evil, and others good: that the general
name of these ministering spirits is EATOUA; and that the natives
suppose two of these divinities attend each affair of consequence in
human life, determining its fate either advantageously or otherwise.
To one circumstance our author speaks in decisive terms. He says, that
when the moon exhibits a certain aspect, which bears the name of _Malama
Tamai_, [the moon in a state of war] the natives offer up human
sacrifices.
Mons. Bougainville mentions one circumstance, as a proof that these
people originated on the continent, from whence their ancestors must
have emigrated. When any one sneezes, his companions cry out,
_Evaroua-t-eatoua_; “that is, may the good genius awaken thee;” or, “may
not the evil genius lull thee asleep.”
The principal people on the island appear to have many wives; and our
author thinks polygamy is common among them all. The rich are chiefly
distinguished from the poor by keeping a greater number of the fair sex;
for universal love is the characteristic of the inhabitants of Otaheite.
Both the parents seem equally fond of nursing their infants. The men
employ themselves principally in war, fishing, and agriculture, while
the women have little to do, but to render themselves agreeable by their
assiduity to please: they submit implicitly to the will of the men, and
the woman who should prostitute herself without the permission of her
husband, would atone for her infidelity with her life. Yet is the
permission of the husband to gratify her passions, in what way she
please, so easily obtained, that these fair ones are not under the least
temptation to disobedience: in fact, the wife generally yields her
person at the solicitation of her husband; jealousy, therefore, one
would imagine, must be a passion quite unknown among them.
The single woman follows, implicitly, the dictates of her heart, and
yields her person at her own discretion; and, the more numerous the
favours she has granted, the better her chance of obtaining a husband.
The examples perpetually before her eyes, the hymeneal songs of the
natives, their dances, and their attitudes, added to the seductive
warmth of the climate, all conspire to render that circumstance no vice
at Otaheite, which would be deemed so in England. Love is at once the
business and the pleasure of the natives of this island; and at his
shrine, all its inhabitants bend with the most fervent devotion. They
dance to the music of a drum, and sing to the flute blown with the nose.
They likewise divert themselves, occasionally, with a kind of wrestling,
which at once braces the nerves, and relaxes the mind; though in this
place, of all parts of the world, the mind seems to require the least
relaxation, for almost the whole business of the islanders consists in
pleasure.
Our author says, that the inhabitants of Otaheite are a witty and
humorous people, which he attributes to their living in ease and
jollity.--That ease may make a man happy, we will readily allow; but
that it can create humour, or inspire wit, we must beg leave to
deny:--perhaps the dullest fellows this day to be found on the habitable
globe, are among those who are easy and independant in point of fortune,
and perhaps, too, some of the most humorous and witty may be found among
those who know not where to obtain a second shilling when the present is
expended. This, at least, is the case in London: it may, possibly, fare
differently with the Parisians, almost all of whom being poor and merry,
may fancy themselves wits and humourists. In a word, wit and humour are
not the gifts of fortune, but of Nature.
Mons. Bougainville charges the people of Otaheite with a fickleness of
disposition, which was deemed astonishing. Every new object struck their
attention, but nothing engaged it for more than a few minutes. To
reflect was, to them, a work of labour, and they seemed to prefer bodily
to mental exercises.--This, with our ingenious author’s permission, is a
proof of their good sense: every man, who can think at all, must know,
that the labour of the mind exceeds that of the limbs, in proportion as
the soul is superior to the body! For this reason we pay not an artist
as we pay a porter; the one will earn an hundred pounds, while the other
is drudging for as many shillings: but the porter can drudge on for
life, while the artist, if he acquire not sufficient to retire with
decency at an early period, will pine away a wretched old age in
unmerited penury!
The natives of Otaheite are ingenious, beyond description, in the
construction of their fishing-tackle, the hooks of which are of mother
of pearl, and wrought as nicely as if with European tools. With threads
drawn from the American aloe they form their nets, which are made like
those of France, and other nations of Europe. Their houses, too, are
exceedingly well built, and the palm-leaves, with which they are
thatched, are laid on with great skill and taste.
The boats (or periaguas) of these people are of two kinds. The former
very large, hollowed out of huge trees, and finished with much taste,
parts of other trees being added as ornaments:--the latter small, and of
much ruder construction.--But these kinds of boats having been
repeatedly described in this and other books of voyages, it is
unnecessary to say more of them.
In order to convey themselves from one island to another, they fix beams
of wood from the starboard side of one vessel to the larboard of the
other, leaving an intermediate space of something more than a yard; and
over the stern of both the boats they erect a kind of hut, lightly
built, and covered with reeds, which serves as a repository for their
provisions, and a shelter against the inclemency of the weather.
Two boats thus lashed together never overset; and are therefore much in
use among the people of superior rank: the sails of these vessels are
nearly square, and consist of mats, stretched out by means of pieces of
cane.
The only tools in use among the natives of Otaheite are pieces of shells
made sharp, for boring holes in wood, and a chissel, in the European
make, the blade of which is formed of a hard black stone.
The natives manufacture that remarkable kind of cloth which forms their
dress: a shrub is cultivated near all the Indian huts, from the rind of
which this cloth is made, by beating it on a smooth board, and
occasionally sprinkling it with water, till it is as thin as paper, and
something like it, only much more pliable. Thus they make cloth of
different thickness, which they afterwards dye; but their process in the
dying it Mons. Bougainville had no opportunity of seeing.
Our author now employs two or three pages in defence of his conduct in
bringing Aotourou from his native island, in answer to some illiberal
reflections which had been cast on him; and then he proceeds to describe
some particulars of the Indian’s behaviour during his residence. This
account should certainly have appeared as a supplement to the Volume;
but we take it as it stands.
Mons. Bougainville says he endeavoured, at a great trouble and expence,
to render Aotourou’s residence at Paris both improving and entertaining
to him. The curiosity of the public to view this stranger was
insatiable; and the foolish Parisians were astonished to learn, that
there was any country on the face of the earth, where neither French,
English, nor Spanish was spoken. Mons. Bougainville happily ridicules
this strange kind of ignorance; but he does not seem to wonder, that it
should prevail among those who had never been without the walls of the
city which gave them birth.
Our author is likewise very severe on a set of critics, who seemed to
wonder that Aotourou could live among Frenchmen almost two years, and
yet learn only a very few words of their language. To account for this,
Mons. Bougainville mentions a physical obstruction in the organs of his
speech; his age, which rather exceeded thirty years; the deficiency of a
memory never exercised by study; and the possessing only a very limited
number of ideas, relative to the trifling wants of the natives of his
happy island. Hence our author concludes, that he must first of all have
created “a world of previous ideas, in a mind as indolent as his body”,
before he could adapt them to the French words proper to express them.
Though Aotourou was thus deficient in the language of France, yet the
streets of Paris were quite familiar to him. He went out daily without
attendants, and found his way readily through the whole city. He
frequently bought things, and was seldom defrauded in the purchase. None
of the public diversions had any charms for him but the opera, to which
he went regularly: for he knew the nights on which it was to be
performed, and paid the same for admittance as other people: his great
fondness for dancing was what rendered the opera so agreeable to him.
He was exceedingly grateful to those who conferred any obligations on
him, nor did he ever forget their persons or their favours. The Dutchess
of Choiseul stood foremost in the list of his friends, and he expressed
more gratitude for the polite attention with which she treated him, than
even for the numerous presents which he received at her hands: and as
often as he heard of that lady’s being arrived from her country-seat, he
would immediately go and visit her.
After a residence of eleven months at Paris, Aotourou was put on board
the Brisson, at Rochelle, which ship was destined to convey him to the
isle of France, whither orders were sent to the Governor and intendant,
to transport him thence to his own country. Mons. Bougainville gave
about 1500 l. sterling, towards the fitting out the Brisson for this
voyage; and the Dutchess of Choiseul ordered a considerable sum to be
expended in cattle, seeds, implements of husbandry, &c. which were
shipped for the use of the natives of Otaheite. Mons. Bougainville
concludes this part of his narrative with the following very humane and
equally political wish. “O may Aotourou soon see his countrymen again!”
Our author now proceeds to inform us of several particulars, with which
his conversation with this adventrous islander had made him acquainted.
If Mons. Bougainville be not misled in his information, the state of
facts will appear to be, that the inhabitants of Otaheite pay their
devotions to the Deity, at the rising and setting of the sun; that their
supreme God is incapable of representation; but that they have two
classes of inferior deities, who are represented by figures carved in
wood. Exclusive of these regular devotions, the natives of Otaheite
practice a number of superstitious ceremonies, in order to avert the
influence of the evil genii.
While Aotourou was at Paris, in 1769, a comet appeared, which furnished
Mons. Bougainville with an opportunity of knowing that these kind of
stars had been frequently observed at Otaheite; but that the natives do
not suppose that they are portentous of any evil consequence; on the
contrary, what we call shooting stars, are, by these people, deemed evil
genii.--How far it was possible for Aotourou to explain himself to Mons.
Bougainville, on astronomical subjects, is left to the reader’s
reflection.
The more enlightened people of Otaheite have names for the sun, moon,
and stars; by which, without the assistance of the needle or compass,
they steer their course night and day, sailing, at some times, not less
than eight hundred miles from island to island. In the daytime they are
guided by the sun, and by the stars in the night.
Mons. Bougainville learnt from Aotourou the names of several islands, in
the seas near Otaheite, the natives of some of which were in friendship,
and those of others at war, with his countrymen. Of the former are
Tapouamassou, Oumaitia, Aca, Maoroua, and Aimeo; of the latter, Oopoa,
Toumaraa, Otaa, Aiatea, and Papara; all which are represented as about
equal in extent with Otaheite.
There is an island, called Pare, the inhabitants of which are
alternately at war and in friendship with the natives of Otaheite. In
these seas are likewise two small islands, called Toupai, and
Enoua-Motou, which are not inhabited, but yield abundance of fruit,
fowls, and hogs, while their coasts abound with turtle, and other fish;
but the people of Otaheite conceiving these islands to be the residence
of evil genii, deem it a certain sign of misfortune, if either curiosity
or chance should lead any boat to their coasts; and it is supposed, that
those who endeavour to land there will perish in the attempt.
The most distant of all the islands above-mentioned is not more than
about fifteen days sail from Otaheite, even with the boats of that
island; and Mons. Bougainville conjectures, that Aotourou had no idea of
going farther when he embarked on board the Boudeuse.--If this
conjecture be well founded, there certainly was not so much magnanimity
in this Indian’s behaviour as we have been hitherto taught to
believe:--but there are great inconsistencies in the writings of our
voyager, which the reader will pardon, in favour of his vanity. It is
our duty to correct and amend as we proceed.
Mons. Bougainville at first imagined, that the inhabitants of Otaheite
were nearly equal in point of rank, and that their happiness was to be
envied, from their supposed equality: but he now, from the information
of Aotourou, corrects that error, and confesses that, “the distinction
of ranks is very great,” and “the disproportion very tyrannical.”--The
Chiefs, and other men in power, dispose of the lives of their dependants
at their pleasure; and our author thinks, that they have the power of
exerting this cruel prerogative over the common people, who are not
immediately dependant on them. The vulgar are distinguished by the
appellation of _Tata-einow_, that is, vile men; and it is mentioned, as
an indubitable fact, that those doomed for sacrifices are selected from
the Plebeian race. The Grandees only eat fish and flesh, while the
common people subsist entirely on pulse and fruits. Indeed the
distinction of rank appears to be very great; for persons of eminence
are lighted from place to place in the night, with a wood of superior
quality to that which the vulgar are allowed to burn. The tree called
the weeping willow is planted only before the houses of the Chiefs or
Kings, and their public dinners are held beneath its shade.
The servants of the great men are distinguished by a kind of sash, worn
round the body, which is placed across the loins, or higher up, till it
comes close under the arm-pits, in proportion to the rank of the master.
The natives of Otaheite make two regular meals daily, one just after
noon, and the other as soon as the sun is gone down. The servants cook
the victuals, which are served up by the wives, who eat after their
husbands have done.
When the men die, the women go into mourning for them; but this
compliment is not returned on the part of the men. The children wear
mourning a long time after the death of the father, and on the decease
of a king, the whole nation is in sables. The mourning consists of a
head-dress of black feathers, and a veil drawn over the face.
Aotourou informed Mons. Bougainville, that this veil was very favourable
to the wishes of those women whose husbands were not so complaisant as
his countrymen in general are. This arises from the following
circumstance. When the mourners go out, a number of slaves walk before
them, beating the castanets to a solemn melancholy tune, which is
considered as a notice for all persons to keep at a distance from the
afflicted: thus, the veil over the face, and the sound of an instrument
from which every one flies, cannot but be auspicious to the wishes of
the enraptured lovers.
When any person is dangerously ill, all his relations repair to his
house, and remain there till he is either dead or out of danger, each,
in his turn, attending the sick man. Their method of bleeding is very
singular. An inferior priest, called _Taoua_, is the physician, who
strikes the cranium with a piece of sharp wood, which opens the sagittal
vein; and when he deems the patient to have bled sufficiently, he ties
on a bandage, which closes the orifice; the day following he washes the
wound, and no ill consequence ensues.
Mons. Bougainville says, that the preceding account contains every thing
he could learn respecting the customs of Otaheite, either on the island,
or from the information of Aotourou. Our author remarks, that some words
spoken by the natives of Otaheite, are to be found in a vocabulary at
the end of La Maire’s voyage, under the title of the “Vocabulary of
Cocos island”, which being mentioned as lying nearly in the same
latitude with Otaheite, is conjectured to be one of those islands, the
names of which were recited by Aotourou.
The language of the people of Otaheite is described by Mons.
Bougainville as extremely harmonious, and easy of pronunciation,
consisting chiefly of vowels, and having no aspirates. He says also that
it has no nasal, mute, or half syllables; nor “that quantity of
consonants and articulations, which render some languages so difficult.”
Hence, he concludes, arose the difficulty of teaching Aotourou the
French tongue; but he thinks it would have been a work of much less
labour to have taught him the Italian or Spanish.
How far our author is right in his conjectures, it would be no easy task
to determine; for the direct contrary of what he says of the language of
these islanders has been observed by the English navigators. As we have
already given some vocabularies, we shall, at the conclusion of this
narrative, give that of Mons. Bougainville, that the reader may
determine whether the English or the French voyagers have the best
pretensions to credibility.
Mons. Bougainville informs us, that a gentleman of Paris, distinguished
by his skill in teaching the art of speech to persons born deaf and
dumb, repeatedly examined Aotourou, and found that he could not
naturally pronounce any of the French nasal vowels, and but very few of
the consonants.
Our author is of opinion, that the language of Otaheite is sufficiently
copious, and he grounds this opinion on the following circumstances.
Whenever, during the voyage, Aotourou was struck with any new object, he
immediately expressed his sentiments in a kind of extempore blank verse;
and he also repeated daily a long prayer, which he called “the prayer of
the Kings,” not a dozen words of which Mons. Bougainville understood, or
heard him repeat on any other occasion.
Aotourou informed the Commodore, that an English ship had arrived at
Otaheite about eight months before the French touched at that island.
This (says our author) was the vessel commanded by Captain Wallace; and
he ascribes the knowledge of iron, which was observed among the natives,
to this visit of the English, especially as they call it _Aouri_, which
is not very unlike our word _iron_. Our Frenchman likewise gives a very
ungenteel hint, that the poor Indians were indebted to the English for
the venereal disease; but the contrary of this is known to be the fact.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to give an account of his departure from
Otaheite, and his discovery of other islands in the southern pacific
ocean. On the morning of the 16th of April, 1768, he discovered what he
thought to be three other islands; but it was afterwards found to be
only one, the high lands of which had, at a distance, given it the
appearance of separate islands. At a considerable distance beyond this
island, they saw another, which Aotourou told them was called
_Oumaitia_; that the natives of it were in alliance with the people of
Otaheite; that there was a girl on the island to whom he had a strong
attachment; and that if the Commodore would touch there, he would meet
with the same kind of necessaries, and the same hospitable treatment, as
he had experienced among his countrymen.
Our circumnavigator, however, deaf to all these persuasive arguments,
held on his way, and lost sight of the island the same day. The
succeeding night proving remarkably fair, and the stars appearing with
unclouded lustre, Aotourou pointed out a constellation in the shoulder
of Orion, and expressed a wish, that the ship’s course might be directed
by it, in consequence of which they would, in two days time, arrive at a
fine island where he had a numerous acquaintance; and it was
conjectured, from his hints, that he had also a child there. As Mons.
Bougainville persisted in his resolution not to alter the ship’s course,
Aotourou became very uneasy, and endeavoured to persuade him to steer
for the desired port, by assuring him, that the island abounded in hogs,
fowls, fruits, and, what he seemed to think would be the most prevailing
argument, fine women, who were abundantly liberal of their favours.
Mortified in a high degree that his reasons did not operate with the
Commodore, he ran to the steerage, and seizing the wheel of the helm,
tried to steer for his favourite isle, nor was it without great
difficulty on the part of the helm’s-man, and equal vexation on that of
the poor Indian, that he was prevented from carrying his design into
execution.
Early on the following morning he climbed to the mast-head, where he
remained several hours, anxiously looking out for the spot which had so
much attracted his regard.
On the preceding night he pointed out a great number of stars, and
informed Mons. Bougainville of their names in the language of Otaheite;
and it was afterwards certainly known, that this islander was not
unacquainted with the phases of the moon, and that he was learned in
those prognosticks, which evince an approaching change of the weather.
It likewise appeared, that his countrymen were not uninformed in this
kind of knowledge, so useful to people whose wants or curiosity
frequently carry them to sea, where they have no compass to direct their
course, except their own judgment, and the sight of the cœlestial
constellations.
Mons. Bougainville confesses, that the natives of Otaheite are fully
convinced that the sun and moon are peopled; and he asks, “What
Fontenelle taught them the plurality of worlds?”--We will answer
him.--The omnipotent Creator of all worlds, who fills all space; whose
power gave birth, and whose presence gives life to nature, and who has
poured his bounties, with unsparing hand, on every part of his creation.
Our historian having acknowledged, that these islanders are possessed of
such great and superior talents, has certainly no right to call, or to
deem, them _savages_. Is a man a savage because he happens to be born in
a different part of the world from us; because he is unacquainted with
the languages of Europe, and untaught in customs, which he could never,
from the locality of his situation, have an opportunity of learning? The
historians, and particularly the navigators of this quarter of the
globe, are very censurably fond of distinguishing, by the title of
savages, all those who are happy enough to be born in milder climates,
and to live and die, uninstructed in those arts of refinement, and
unskilled in that baseness of insincerity, which are at once the
characteristick, the boast, and the disgrace of the Christian world.
The weather continued fine till the end of April, at which time the
principal pilot on board the Boudeuse died of an apoplectic fit. In the
beginning of the month of May, three islands were discovered at the
distance of ten or twelve leagues to the north-west; but these were
unknown to Aotourou, who imagined that it was Mons. Bougainville’s
country. The moon shone bright in the night, during which they kept
sight of the islands, and in the morning steered for the largest, the
eastern shore of which they coasted, and found it about nine miles in
length.
The coasts of this island are remarkably steep, and, in fact, the whole
of it is little else than an enormous hill, cloathed with trees. Several
fires were seen on shore, a small number of houses covered with reeds,
under the shade of cocoa-nut trees, and more than twenty of the natives
running hastily along the coast.
The two smaller islands were each about a mile and a half in length, and
separated from the larger one by an arm of the sea; in shape and
appearance they are very much like the former.
The Commodore had given directions to steer between the islands, when a
boat, with five Indians in her, was observed coming off towards the
ship. She advanced very near, but, though every sign of friendly
invitation was made, not one of the natives would venture on board. They
had no kind of cloathing but a bandage round the waist; and as they
could not be prevailed on to come up the ship’s side, Aotourou stripped
himself, leaving on nothing more than what they wore, and addressed them
in the language of Otaheite; but they understood not a word of what he
said.
As they held up some cocoa-nuts, and other vegetables, and seemed to
wish to barter them for some trinkets which were shewn them, Mons.
Bougainville ordered out one of the ship’s boats, with a view to visit
the strangers; but they no sooner learnt his intention, than they rowed
off with all possible expedition, and he did not think proper to follow
them.
In a little time many other boats advanced towards the ships, some of
them rowed, and others sailing. These, less diffident than the former,
came close under the ship’s side, but none of the islanders would
venture on board. They exchanged pieces of an exquisitely fine shell,
yams, cocoa-nuts, and a water hen of most beautiful plumage, for small
pieces of red stuff; but they did not seem fond of earrings, knives,
nails, nor iron of any kind; which had been so eagerly coveted by the
inhabitants of Otaheite. One of these Indians brought a cock with him,
but he would not part with it on any terms. They had also some pieces of
cloth, of the same kind as that manufactured at Otaheite, but not of so
fine a fabrick, and died black, brown and red, but none of the colours
were good of their kinds. They were likewise possessed of a kind of wood
hardened by fire, lances, mats, and fish-hooks made of bones.
Mons. Bougainville conjectures, from the features of these islanders,
that they are not of so amiable a disposition as the natives of
Otaheite; and he represents them as such dextrous thieves, that it was
almost impossible to guard against their depredations.
These people are of the middle size, and exceedingly alert; they are of
a deep brown complexion, but one was seen among them who was much fairer
than any of the others; they had no beards, so that it was supposed they
were plucked out by the roots, and their hair, which was universally
black, stood almost erect on their heads; their thighs and breasts were
painted with a deep blue.
Their boats are built in a most ingenious taste, and furnished with
out-riggers. The head and stern of the vessel are equally flat with its
sides, and over each is a small deck, in the center of which is a row of
wooden pegs, the tops of which are enclosed in a shell of the purest
white: the sail is formed of matting, and its shape triangular, being
extended by means of sticks.
In these boats the islanders followed the French vessels to a
considerable distance out to sea, while several others, from the smaller
islands, joined the naval procession, and produced an effect that was
highly agreeable. In one of these last mentioned boats was an old woman,
remarkably distinguished by the singular ugliness of her features.
As the weather now fell calm, the Commodore gave up, from an
apprehension of danger, his project of sailing between the islands,
though the breadth of the channel was more than four miles. They now
sailed, therefore, in the open sea, and on the evening of the same day,
the man at the mast-head had sight of other land, even while they were
yet in view, by the aid of a bright moon, of the islands they had lately
left.
On the morning of the 5th it appeared, that the newly discovered land
was a most beautiful island, consisting of alternate mountains and
vallies, clothed with the richest verdure, and finely shadowed by the
spreading branches of the cocoa-nut, and a variety of other trees. Near
the westermost point of this island is a ledge of rocks, and the sea
breaks with violence on many parts of the coast, so that it would be
difficult to land, except in very few places.
Many boats put off from the island, and sailed round the ships, though
they were then going at the rate of at least seven knots an hour. These
boats, however, one only excepted, would not venture near the ships; but
_that one_ went along-side, and her crew made signs for the French to
land, which they would have done, but the breakers rendered it
impossible. At this time the man at the mast-head observed a number of
the Indian boats sailing to the southward.
On the following day another island was seen to the westward of the
ship’s course, in the neighbourhood of which were two smaller islands;
but none of these could be distinctly beheld, on account of some thick
fogs, which intercepted the view.
The last mentioned islands are situated nearly where Tasman, the Dutch
navigator, has placed a number of islands which he discovered, and to
which he gave the names of Heemskirk, Prince William, Pylstaart,
Amsterdam and Rotterdam. The longitude of these islands corresponds
likewise, very nearly, with those which navigators have called Solomon’s
Isles; so that it is most probable they are the same.
Mons. Bougainville conjectures, that the number of boats which were
observed sailing to the southward, is a vindication that there are other
islands at no great distance; and, indeed, this opinion seems to be
well-grounded. To all these lands the Commodore gave the general name of
the _Archipelago of the Navigators_.
The writer of this work must be indulged for giving a hint, which
springs from the noblest of motives, the love of his country. It is
surely well worthy the consideration of the British ministry, whether it
might not be proper to send a fleet to discover and settle some of these
islands.--Who knows what future benefit might, from such a circumstance,
accrue to the first maritime and commercial state in the universe?--The
American colonies form the brightest gem in the British crown. The
colonies in the southern pacific ocean might, not improbably, constitute
a diadem of still superior lustre!
On the morning of the 11th another island was discovered, which received
the name of the _Forlorn Hope_; but for what reason it is impossible to
guess. At a distance it had the appearance of two islands, but this
deception was occasioned by its shape, for it consisted of two hills,
joined by a low land, which could not be seen far out at sea.
At this period, and for some days before and afterwards, the weather was
extremely unfavourable, the winds being adverse, and the rains and calms
alternate. Mons. Bougainville (on this circumstance) observes, that in
the ocean which has obtained the name of PACIFIC, the approach to land
is generally announced by violent tempests, which become still more
violent, in proportion as the moon decreases. The vicinity of islands is
generally foreboded by thick clouds at the horizon, and squally weather;
and the precautions necessary to be taken to prevent a vessel’s running
fowl of shoals, may be more easily conceived than described. In the
present instance it was impossible to proceed with the necessary degree
of caution; for the crew were in want of provisions, and water, in
particular, grew very scarce; so that they were obliged to take
advantage of every breeze of wind, both by night and day, and run all
hazards, for fear of starving.
Thus situated, it may be presumed, that they thought themselves
sufficiently unhappy; but their distresses were aggravated by the
greater number of the crew of each ship being attacked by the scurvy,
which inflamed their mouths to such a degree, that they could scarcely
have swallowed those refreshments of which they stood much in need. Salt
beef, pork, and dried pulse, constituted the whole fare of those who
remained in health; for the sick, however, there were yet some few
articles of fresh provisions remaining.
At this unfortunate juncture the disease, consequent on an illicit
commerce between the sexes, made its appearance, attended by all its
most disagreeable symptoms. Aotourou was so extremely ill of it, that
though seeming to despise its progress and its effects, he was obliged
to submit himself to the care of the Surgeons. Mons. Bougainville’s
words, on this occasion, are very remarkable. “In his (Aotourou’s)
country, this disease is but little minded. Columbus brought it from
America; here it is in an isle in the midst of the greatest ocean. Have
the English brought it thither? Or ought the physician to win, who laid
a wager, that if four healthy stout men were shut up with one healthy
woman, the venereal complaint would be the consequence of their
commerce?”
Ungenerous Frenchman! Why this unjustifiable attack on the English? At
the time Mons. Bougainville wrote the narrative of his voyage, he knew
that some of his crew were infected with the malady in question, when
they landed at Otaheite; for, in a former part of his volume he has
said, that he did all in his power to prevent their communicating it to
the poor islanders. What becomes, too, of his wonder, how a disorder
should find its way to a little island in the pacific ocean, when he
knew that his own ship had carried it thither!--Whether Columbus brought
this pestilence from America or not, is, perhaps a question not easily
determined; nor, at this period, is it at all material: but one fact is
well known; that the French have plentifully distributed the contagion
through Europe, and it is not improbable, that they have likewise
carried it to every other quarter of the globe.
This subject is rather of the indelicate kind; but we are necessarily
led into it; and may be indulged in one remark, that seems to arise
naturally from the preceding circumstances, and will, we trust, militate
on the side of virtue.--Providence, we conceive, wisely intended one man
for the associate of one woman, who should be the companion of his life,
the friend of his bosom, the partaker of his joys, the sharer of his
griefs, whose love for him should excite all his tenderness, and repay,
with interest, those toils and cares it gave rise to. Thus paired, thus
mutually giving and receiving happiness, the married state is indeed a
heaven on earth. Wedded love, the chaste, the holy, the conjugal tie,
will ensure as much happiness as is to be found in this sublunary world;
and trust, O reader, in the goodness of God for the future. To sum up
this remark, marriages are made in heaven; choose, ye ladies, with
prudence choose, the heart paired with your own; select ye, generous
youths, the amiable fair, whose eyes beam the gentle influence of love,
and whose heart feels the solid force of virtue; then be true to each
other, and bid defiance to contagion: so shall your days be happy, and
your children bless the parents to whom they owe the first of human
blessings, health of body, and of mind.
The ships now steered a westerly course, and early on the morning of the
22d two islands were discovered, one of which received the name of
Aurora, from the early hour on which it was first seen, and the other
that of Whitsuntide Isle, from the day which gave birth to its being so
named.
The track of the vessels was now so directed, as that they might have
passed between the two islands, but an unexpected calm prevented this
manœuvre. Proceeding to the northward of the first discovered island, a
rising land, in a conical form, was observed to bear north by west,
which received the name of the Peak of the Etoile.
In the afternoon, mountainous lands, at thirty miles distance, were
seen, appearing, as it were, over and beyond the island of Aurora.
On the twenty-third it was discovered, that the land last seen was a
separate island; the appearance of which was lofty, its descent steep,
and the whole cloathed with trees. A number of boats were seen coasting
the shore, but none of them approached the ships; smoke was seen issuing
from among the woods, but no habitation was observed.
In the morning the Commodore dispatched three boats, well manned and
armed, to take in wood, and to learn the necessary particulars
respecting the country, while the ships guns were brought to bear on the
island, in order to protect the boats crews from any insult that might
be offered them by the natives.
Mons. Bougainville himself went on shore in the afternoon, where he
found the good natured Indians assisting the French in carrying to the
boats a quantity of wood which had been cut.
The information obtained from the officer commanding the boat’s crew
was, that on his first landing, the natives assembled on the shore,
armed with bows and arrows, intimating, by signs, that the strangers
must retreat. The French officer, however, gave directions for landing,
and while his people advanced, the islanders retreated, but with their
bows bent, and in an attitude of self-defence. At length, the crew were
ordered to halt, while the Prince of Nassau approached the Indians, who
no longer retreated when they saw only one person advancing. The Prince
having given them some remnants of red cloth, their esteem appeared to
be at once conciliated.
The commanding officer now stationed himself at the entrance of a wood,
and sent out a party in search of refreshments, while another was
deputed to cut fire-wood. The natives now came forward, with an
appearance of friendship, and distributed some fruit among the seamen,
to whom they likewise gave some arrows, but refused to accept any thing
in exchange. Their numbers were considerable, and those who were not
armed with bows and arrows had provided themselves with stones, as
instruments of defence.
These people intimated, that they were at war with the natives of a
different district on the island, and even while they were hinting this
circumstance, an armed party of Indians approached from the westward,
while the former appeared determined not to retreat from their enemies;
but the valour of the latter was rendered unnecessary to be exerted by
the want of present courage in the former.
Matters were in this situation when Mons. Bougainville landed on the
island, where he remained till his boats were laden with the articles he
wanted.
This being done, he took possession of the island, by the act of burying
at the foot of a tree an inscription, carved on an oak-plank; and then
he retreated to the ship.
It was imagined, that this early retreat of the French prevented an
attack, which the islanders had meditated, as they seemed to be making
preparations for what they had not yet in their power to carry into
execution; but no sooner had the boats put off, than the islanders
hastened to the beach, and complimented them with a shower of arrows,
and a volley of stones; some of them even plunged into the waves, aiming
their fury at the supposed invaders, and hurling their vengeance on the
insolent strangers. When, at length, one of the seamen had been wounded
by a stone, a discharge of muskets drove the poor islanders to their
native woods, evidently wounded, from their cries and exclamations.
Mons. Bougainville gives the following description of the natives of
this island, which he called the _Isle of Lepers_, from observing, that
many of the inhabitants were afflicted with the leprosy. Some of them
are mulatto’s, and others perfect negroes; their hair is woolly, and
generally black, but in some instances of a very light brown,
approaching to a yellow. Few women were seen among them, but those few
were equally disagreeable with the men, who are represented as low in
stature, ill-favoured, and disproportionably made.
We will not deny the veracity of our historian; the works of Nature and
of Providence are astonishing. The God of creation is equally wise and
wonderful in all his works; but we must own, that it appears to be a
phenomenon, the existence of which surpasses the credulity of an English
reader, that black men should have (to use Mons. Bougainville’s own
words) hair “of a yellowish colour.” Of all historians, the
circumnavigators are fond of dealing in the marvellous. Our Commodore,
presuming that he had visited an island unapproached by any other
European Commander, has told us just what he pleased of the natives of
that island, and it is not in our power to contradict him. It would have
given weight to the testimony of our flippant French historian, if he
had brought to Paris one of these curious _Lusus Naturæ_, these
yellow-pated negroes.
The ladies of this singular country carry their children in a bag of
cloth, slung at their backs. On these cloths there are elegant drawings
in a fine dye of crimson. The noses of the men are pierced and hung with
ornaments; and it is presumed, that they pluck their beards, as none of
them were observed to have any. They wear a bracelet on the arm, which
had the appearance of ivory, and pieces of tortoishells round their
necks.
Clubs, stones, bows and arrows form the armour of these people; the
arrows are made of reeds pointed with bone. On the points of these bones
are inverted darts, which prevent the arrow being drawn without tearing
the flesh of the wounded person. The boats of these islanders bore a
strong resemblance to those of the Indians of the isle of Navigators;
but these vessels did not approach the ships so near, as to furnish the
French with an opportunity of giving a particular description of their
construction.
Near the beach on which Mons. Bougainville landed, is a lofty hill,
extremely steep, yet cloathed with a super-abundance of verdure. The
vegetable productions of the Isle of Lepers, are far inferior to those
of Otaheite, owing, as is supposed, to the lightness of the soil, and
its want of depth.
Figs, of a species not before known, were found in this country; and
several paths were seen cut through the woods, and inclosed by
pallisadoes about a yard in height. It was conjectured, that these
enclosures marked the boundaries of the landed property of different
persons. Half a dozen hovels only were seen, into which no person could
enter but on his hands and knees; yet the inhabitants were very
numerous, and it is supposed they must be very miserable, from the
perpetual wars among the natives of different districts on the island.
Mons. Bougainville says, that the sound of a drum, harsh and dissonant
to the ear, was frequently heard in the wood near the top of the
above-mentioned hill; and this he imagines to have been a signal for the
Indians to rally their forces; for no sooner had the discharge of the
fire-arms dispersed the multitude, than this drum was immediately heard;
and when the islanders in enmity with the others appeared, the drum was
beat with suspended violence.
Aotourou formed a very contemptible opinion of the inhabitants of the
Isle of Lepers, whose persons appeared indescribably odious in his eyes;
and of whose language he had not the slightest idea.
On the 23d more land was discovered, which, on the 25th, was observed to
enclose almost all the horizon, so that the ships were surrounded in one
extensive gulph, while the coast of the newly-discovered country
contained many other gulphs, or large inlets, across which several boats
were observed rowing, from one shore to the other.
The night of the 25th was spent in tacking, and in the morning it was
observed, that the currents had carried the ships several miles more to
the south than their reckoning. The number of isles now seen was so
great, that they could not be counted, nor could the end of these
extensive countries be discerned.
Steering north-west by west, the land had a very beautiful aspect, being
diversified with fine trees, between spots of land that had the
appearance of being cultivated. Some parts of the mountains being
barren, and spotted in different places with a red earth, Mons.
Bougainville conjectures from that circumstance, that they contained
some mineral substances.
A great inlet to the westward having been seen on the preceding day, the
ships now arrived in it, and saw a number of negro Indians on the south
coast of it, while others approached the vessels in their boats, but
when they came to about the distance of a musket shot, they would
advance no nearer, nor could any sign of invitation from the French
induce them to alter their resolution.
The land on the north shore is of a moderate height, and cloathed with
trees. On this shore many negroes were seen, and several boats put off
towards the ships; but these, like the former, refused to come to board.
At the distance of about eight miles from this spot, two islands were
seen, which formed the entrance of a fine bay, which the boats were sent
to examine, and after they had been gone a few hours, the sound of
muskets were heard, which made the Commodore very uneasy. On their
return in the evening it appeared, that one of them, in disobedience to
the orders of the Commander, had left her consort, and going near in
shore, the Indians discharged two arrows at the crew, which was returned
by the musquetry, and some larger guns. A projecting point of land
prevented the boat being seen from the ships; but the incessant firing
induced the Commodore to imagine, that she was engaged with a very large
number of the enemies boats, two of which she had certainly encountered.
Preparations were making for dispatching the long-boat to her
assistance, when she was descried, coming round the above-mentioned
point of land.
The lamentable cries of the poor Indians were now heard in the woods, to
which they had fled, from the rage of their enemies, and their drums
were incessantly beating.--We must now transcribe one passage from Mons.
Bougainville, because it is the _most humane_, and consequently _the
noblest_, in his whole narrative: “I immediately made signal to the boat
to come on board, and I took my measures to prevent our being
dishonoured for the future, by such an abuse of the superiority of our
power.”
The country last mentioned consisted of a number of small islands, off
which there is tolerable good anchorage, but at such a distance from the
coast, that a ship could not cover any boats which should land, which,
as the islands are cloathed with thick woods, would be the more
necessary.
These Indians went naked, and, except a bandage round the waist, wore
the same kind of ornaments as those on the island of Lepers, whom they
resembled in all respects, except not being quite so black; and the
productions of the island were likewise the same.--The Commodore very
properly declined any attempt to trade with these people, whom he could
not suppose would barter their effects with those, from whom they had
received such essential injuries.
On the morning of the 27th they again sailed, and, in a few hours, had
sight of a fine plantation of trees, between which there were regular
walks, resembling those of an European garden. Many of the natives were
seen near this spot, and as an inlet was observed at no small distance,
the Commodore ordered the boats to be hoisted out but they found that it
was impracticable to land.
The ships now quitted the great cluster of islands they had lately
visited, which received the general name of _Archipelago of the great
Cyclades_, which, it is conjectured, occupies no less than three degrees
of latitude, and five of longitude. Mons. Bougainville says, that these
islands are not the same that Quiros called _Tierra Austral del Espiritu
Santo_; but that Roggewein saw the northern extremity of them, which he
denominated _Groningen_, and _Thienhoven_.
Our author now recites a very singular fact. On board the store-ship was
a person reported to be a woman, which was almost confirmed by her want
of beard, her voice, and her shape. The Commodore going on board the
Etoile, enquired into the fact; when the party confessed her sex, while
floods of tears streamed down her face.
Her story is extraordinary.--Born in Burgundy, and left an Orphan, she
was ruined by the fatal issue of a law-suit: on which she resolved to
drop the habit of her sex, and served a gentleman at Paris; but hearing
of Mons. Bougainville’s intended expedition round the world, she
repaired to Rochefort, where, just before the ships embarked, she
entered into the service of Mons. de Commerçon, who went out with a view
of encreasing his botanical knowledge. She followed her master, with
astonishing courage and resolution, through deep snows, to the hoary
tops of the mountains in the streight of Magellan, carrying loads of
herbs, plants, arms and provisions, with unspeakable courage, and
unwearied toil.
While our adventurers were at Otaheite, the men of that island flocked
round our heroine, and exclaiming, “this is a woman!” would certainly
have treated her as such, but that an officer rescued her from their
hands, and ordered her to be delivered, unviolated on board the ship.
Mons. Bougainville observes, that this is the first woman that ever
circumnavigated the globe, and remarks on the singularity of her
situation, if the ships should have been wrecked on some desert isle in
the great ocean. The name of this extraordinary woman is Baré; and she
is as celebrated for her chastity as her courage.
On the night between the fourth and fifth of June some breakers were
seen at half a league’s distance, by the light of the moon. In the
morning it appeared to be a low flat sandy isle, abounding in birds,
which received the name of the _Shoal of Diana_.
About this period several species of fruit, and some pieces of wood,
floated by the ship; and a kind of flying fish was seen, larger than the
common sort, the body of which was black, and the wings red.
A sand bank was discovered on the 6th, on which the sea broke violently,
and the tops of rocks were seen at intermediate spaces. “This last
discovery (says our author) was the voice of God, and we were obedient
to it.”--They therefore spent the night in making short tacks in that
part of the sea with which they were previously acquainted.
At this time the salt provisions on board were become so putrid, that it
was almost impossible for men, even on the point of starving, to swallow
them; and therefore the rats were industriously sought after, and eaten
in preference to it. The remaining peas would serve only forty days, and
the bread two months; so that it became highly necessary to think of
steering to the northward.
On the 10th, before day-break, an agreeable fragrancy impregnated the
air, announcing that land was near; and it was accordingly discovered
before sun-rising. This is described as a most delicious country,
divided, near the sea coast, into groves and plains, behind which the
land rises, in the form of amphitheatre, till the tops of the mountains
are lost in the clouds. The most lofty of three chain of mountains was
seen above seventy miles in-land. The whole country appeared to be rich
and fertile, but the deplorable situation to which the ship’s companies
were reduced, would not admit of their staying to take a more accurate
survey of it.
On the 10th a prodigious swell from the south-east drove the ships
violently towards land, and they were soon within about two miles of it;
and the night was passed in this dangerous situation, taking advantage
of every slight breeze to clear the shore. A number of boats were now
seen coasting the island, on many parts of which fires were observed. A
turtle was found here in the belly of a shark.
For several successive days there was so thick a fog, that the Boudeuse
was obliged to fire frequent guns to keep company with the Etoile, on
board of which were a part of their provisions.
Several shell fish, called cornets, leaped into the ship in the night,
and as it is known of these fish, that they are accustomed to keep at
the bottom of the sea, it is evident, that the ships must have been in
very shallow water.
On the 16th the weather became fine, and on the following day several
islands were discovered, one of which was called Ushant, from its
similitude to the island of that name.
By this time our voyagers were reduced to very great extremities. The
allowance of bread and pease was considerably reduced; and a fear of the
consequences that might arise, obliged the Commodore to forbid the
eating of leather. There was yet on board a she-goat, which had been
brought from Falkland’s Islands; she yielded milk daily, but this was
insufficient to save her life: the starving crew demanded the victim,
and the butcher, who had hitherto been her feeder, wept as he plunged
the murderous knife in the breast of his favourite. Soon after this a
dog, which had been put on board at the streights of Magellan, fell a
sacrifice to the dire demands of hunger.
On the 18th not less than nine or ten islands were discovered, and on
the 20th a still farther number. Our navigators now struggled at once
with a variety of inconveniences, occasioned by foul ships, damaged
rigging, crazy masts, and tempestuous weather.
On the 25th high land was discovered, which appeared to terminate in a
cape, which they doubled with a degree of transport that may be more
easily conceived than described, as it was the point they had wished for
a sight of, from a certainty that it would enable them to quit for ever
the archipelago of islands, amidst which they had been so long in hourly
danger of shipwreck or starving. This cape was called _Cape
Deliverance_, and the name of the _Gulph of the Louisiade_, was given to
a bay, of which the Cape forms the eastermost point.
North of Cape Deliverance about sixty leagues land was discovered, which
proved to be two small islands; and, two days afterwards, an officer was
sent to examine several creeks, in the hope of finding anchorage, while
the ships sailed slowly after the boats, ready to join them on the first
signal.
The natives now advanced towards the ship in several boats, carrying
from two or three, to upwards of twenty men each.
These boats had no outriggers, and their crews were as black as the
negroes on the coast of Guinea. Some of them had reddish hair, and that
of all of them was long and curled. They wore white ornaments on their
foreheads and necks, and were armed with lances and bows; they kept an
almost continual shouting, and seemed rather inclined for war than
peace.
When the boats returned on board, the officer reported, that the sea
broke on all parts of the coast, that he had found only one small river,
that the land is every where covered with wood, and that the mountains
run down close to the sea-shore.
The natives dwell on the mountains, but they have a few huts on the
banks of some of the small creeks.--Some of them followed one of the
ship’s boats, and seemed almost resolved on an attack; and one of the
Indians repeatedly put himself in an attitude to have thrown his lance;
but he desisted from his purpose, and no mischief was done.
Mons. Bougainville says, that he was now advanced too far to return; but
that he hoped to find a passage, though the weather was so foggy that he
could not discern any object at the distance of more than two leagues.
In the morning of the 1st of July, the ships were just in the station
they had quitted the preceding night, having been impelled forward, and
driven back, by the tides.
Nothing remarkable happened but the discovery of a _Race_, in the middle
of a passage, to which was given the name of _Dennis’s Race_, from that
of the master of the Boudeuse.
A race is a part of any channel or streight, where there are opposing
tides, or a rapid and dangerous current; and such are even sometimes met
with in the open seas.
Boats were now sent to find anchorage in a fine bay; and the account of
their expedition is as follows.--That a number of Indian boats, in which
were a hundred and fifty of the natives, armed with shields, lances, and
bows, came from the banks of a rivulet on which their habitations were
situated, and rowed hastily towards the French boats, which they
surrounded, and, with hideous outcries, began the attack with their bows
and lances. The French discharged their muskets; but the natives
covering themselves with their shields, the fight continued, till a
second firing terrified them so, that they made a hasty retreat, some of
them swimming on shore.
Two of their boats were taken, on the stern of which was the figure of a
man’s head with a long beard, the eyes being mother-of-pearl, the ears
tortoiseshell, and the lips were dyed a bright red. Exclusive of their
weapons and utensils, there were found in their boats cocoa-nuts, and
several fruits, the species of which were not known, the jaw of a man,
half broiled, and various other things.
The natives of this coast are negroes, whose hair curls naturally, and
they have a method of colouring it yellow, red, and white. Their
cloathing consists only of a piece of matting round the waist. This
river received the name of _Warrior’s River_, and the whole spot, that
of the _Isle and Bay of Choiseul_.
Two days afterwards a cape was discovered, which was called _Cape
L’Averdi_, on which were mountains of an astonishing height. On the 4th
other mountainous land was discovered, from which came off five or six
Indians, and, after lying on their oars some time, they accepted some
trifles which were thrown to them. They now exhibited some cocoa-nuts,
saying, _bouca, bouca, onelle!_ and seemed greatly pleased when the
French repeated them. They then intimated, that they would fetch some
cocoa-nuts, but they had scarcely left the ship’s side, when one of them
discharged an arrow, by which, however, no person was wounded.
The people were altogether naked, had long ears, bored, and curled short
hair, which some of them had dyed red, and they had also white spots on
their bodies. Their teeth were red, probably from the chewing of betel.
This island, which was named _Bouka_, appeared to be cultivated, and,
from the number of huts that were seen, it probably abounds with
inhabitants.--The cocoa-nut, and other trees, dispersed over a beautiful
plain, was a sufficient temptation for landing; but the rapidity of the
current prevented the possibility of it.
Two more islands were seen on the 5th, and, as the wood and water were
expended, and disease reigning aboard, the Commodore resolved to land
here, and, on the following afternoon, the ships came to an anchor. The
casks were sent on shore, and tents erected for the sick, on a
commodious spot, where there were four rivulets near together, and where
wood for the carpenters and joiners use, as well as for burning, was
very plenty; there were no inhabitants near the place, so that the sick
had an opportunity of ranging the woods, fearless of any attack from the
natives, and every thing seemed to conspire to render this spot the most
eligible imaginable; but there was one great inconvenience, no fruit
could be found.
Two huts were discovered on the bank of a rivulet, not far from the
encampment, and a boat, near which were seen the remains of fires, some
calcined shells, and the skeletons of some animals heads, which were
taken for those of the wild boar. Some fresh bananas were found, which
proves, that the natives had but lately left the place.
This island produces a large, blue crested pigeon, which has so
plaintive a note, that the seamen mistook it for the cries of men
towards the mountains.
Mons. Bougainville now relates an extraordinary incident. A seaman being
looking for shells, found a plate of lead buried in the sand, on which
the following letters were very visible.
HOR’D HERE
ICK MAJESTY’s
The mark of the nails with which the lead had been fastened appeared;
and it is plain, that the natives must have torn off the plate and
broken it.
This circumstance gave rise to a diligent search, and, at about six
miles from the watering-place, the very spot was found where the English
had formed their encampment. Several trees were seen which had been
felled, and others which were sawn in pieces. A very large and
conspicuous tree was found, on which the inscription had been nailed; it
stood in the midst of a spacious place, and it appeared, that the plate
had been pulled down but a very short time. There were other trees, to
which the ends of ropes were fastened. One of the trees which had been
cut down had put forth fresh twigs, apparently of the growth of four
months. Mons. Bougainville mentions it as a very singular circumstance,
that, amidst so many islands, he should happen to land on that so lately
visited by a rival nation!
Diligent search was now made for food and refreshments, but almost in
vain; for nothing could be found but a few cabbage-trees, and
thatch-palms. No fish could be catched, and, though a few wild boars
were seen, not one of them was taken. A small number of pigeons were
indeed shot, the feathers of which were of green and gold.
It will be needless to mention the other products of this island, as the
reader has already had an account of them in the narrative of the
English voyages.
No time was now lost in the necessary repairs of the ships; and an equal
division was made of the provisions, which now began to run extremely
short. A third part of the late allowance of pease was taken off. From
the Commodore to the lowest person on board, all fared alike: their
situation, like death, banished all distinction.
On the 13th there was an eclipse of the sun, which was clearly seen, and
the proper astronomical and nautical remarks made on it. The name of
_Port Praslin_ was given to this harbour, an inscription having been
first buried under the spot where the eclipse had been observed.
The Etoile being a light vessel, and there being no stones to ballast
her, after the provisions had been taken out, this important business
was necessarily performed with wood; a fatiguing and unwholesome task,
in so damp a country.
An insect of a most wonderful texture was found on this island, the body
and wings of which appeared so much like the leaf of a tree, as scarcely
to be distinguished from it, even on a nice inspection. When the wings
are extended, each forms the half of a leaf, and when they are closed it
is entire. The upper side of the body is of a brighter hue than the
under parts; and it has six legs, the upper joints of which resemble
parts of leaves. This curiosity was preserved in spirits, and is in the
cabinet of the French King.
A sailor who was hauling the fishing-net, in search of a scarce fish
called the hammer-oyster, having been bit by a snake, whose bite is
poisonous, was cured in a few hours by a profuse perspiration, produced
by taking flower-de-luce water and treacle.
Aotourou having remarked the progress of the cure, intimated, that at
Otaheite there were sea-snakes, whose bite is mortal in every instance.
On the 22d repeated shocks of an earthquake were felt for about two
minutes. The sea rose and fell several times, so that the concussions
were felt on board the ships.
Notwithstanding the extreme bad weather which prevailed, the crews,
divided into separate parties, went to the woods every day, in hopes to
shoot some turtle-doves, and gather cabbage-trees and thatch-palms; but
it generally happened, that they returned without any success, and wet
to the skin. At length, however, they found some mangle apples, and a
kind of pruens; but too late to be of much service, as they were now on
the point of departure. A kind of ivy was successfully applied in the
cure of the scurvy.
An immense cascade was seen, falling from numerous rocks into a hundred
basons of water, and at once shaded and adorned by stately trees, some
of which grow even in the reservoirs, is recommended by Mons.
Bougainville as a subject fit to exercise the fancy of the boldest
painter--Why did not his limner make a drawing of it?
The situation of the ships companies now became so dreadful, that no
more time could be lost.--In the afternoon of the 24th a favourable
breeze enabled the ships to get out to sea.
Mons. Bougainville remarks, that this country must be NEW BRITAIN, and
that the great bay must be the same which Dampier calls St. George’s
Bay; but that he had the happiness to land on a part of it where his
wants could be supplied by the inhabitants.
A succession of islands having been seen in the offing, Mons.
Bougainville named them after the officers.--The field-tents were now
cut up, to make trowsers for the seamen, who had been repeatedly clothed
during the voyage, to enable them to sustain the inclemencies of so many
different climates. But the last change of cloathing was now delivered
out, and at this period an ounce of bread was deducted from their scanty
allowance. Their salt provisions were now so bad, as to be nauseous in a
high degree; yet their starving situation impelled them to feed on them;
but even at this melancholy period, no one yielded himself a prey to
melancholy. The sailors, influenced by the example of the officers,
employed every evening in dancing, dispelling, by their mirth, some of
the pangs of hunger.--Happy Frenchmen! who could be thus mirthful, in
the jaws of apparent destruction!
New Britain continued in sight till the beginning of August, when the
ships being nearer the land than they had been before, several Indian
boats came off, the crews of which were negroes, with woolly heads,
which they had covered with white powder. They are tall and active, and
wore no other cloaths than leaves round the middle. They held out
something that had the appearance of bread, and invited the French to
land; but they refused to enter the ships, though an attempt was made to
conciliate their friendship, by presents of some pieces of stuff. They
accepted what was given, and threw a stone from a sling in return;
instantly retreating, with loud vociferations.
On the following day a larger number assembled along side the Boudeuse;
a person, who had the appearance of authority, carried a red staff,
knobbed at each end, in his hand. On approaching the ship, he held his
hands over his head for a considerable time. The hair of these negroes
was painted red; some of them were adorned with feathers, ear-rings made
of the seed of some herb, or circular plates depending from their necks;
others had the nose pierced, and rings ran through it; but the general
ornament was a bracelet made of the half of a shell. The French were
anxious to conciliate the esteem of these people, but in vain; they
eagerly grasped at whatever was given them, but would make no present in
return. The roots of a few yams were all that could be obtained from
them. Two of their boats being observed approaching in the night, a
rocket was fired, on which they instantly rowed off.
On the 31st a number of Indian boats attacked the Etoile with a volley
of stones and arrows; but a single discharge of the musquetry got rid
for ever of these troublesome companions.
On the 4th of August two islands were seen, which are conjectured to be
the same which Dampier distinguishes by the name of _Matthias_ and
_Stormy_, or _Squally_, Island. On the 5th a third island was seen, and
then the northern point of New Britain, which lies only forty one
minutes south of the land.
On the 7th a flat island was seen, covered with trees, abounding with
cocoa-nuts, and certainly well inhabited, as appeared from the great
number of houses that were seen on the shore. Fishing-boats in
multitudes surrounded the island; but the fishermen took no notice of
the ships. This received the name of the _Isle of Anchorets_. On the
following day a prodigious number of small islands was seen, when Mons.
Bougainville having escaped the most imminent dangers, in the endeavour
to double this chain of islands, at length happily effected his point,
in consequence of a breeze which still freshened with the rising sun.
He now continued to range the coast till he came within sight of two
lofty peaks, to which he gave the name of the two Cyclops. On the 15th
two high mountains were discovered on the continent, and two small
islands near them.
On the 23d two other islands being discovered, an attempt was made to
land, in the hope of obtaining refreshments; but this was found
impracticable, but by the boats, the Commanding officer of which
reported, that the islands were totally uninhabited, and that no fruits
grew which were fit to be eaten.
This day the ships crews were twice alarmed; the first time with a
report from aloft, that a range of breakers were seen a-head; but this
proved to be only the rippling of a strong tide; the second alarm was
from the fore-castle, where it was declared, that the bottom of the sea
was visible under the ship’s way. This shoal was perceived by the crew
of the Etoile, but was easily escaped by both the ships. Monsieur Denys,
first Master of the Boudeuse, died this day of the scurvy, to the
infinite regret of the whole ship’s company. At this time upwards of
forty persons were ill of the same disorder, the progress of which was
stopped by the plentiful use of wine and lemonade.
It was now thought necessary to stear a southerly course, in order to
get clear of the islands by which they were surrounded. None of these
islands appeared to be inhabited, though all of them were cloathed with
verdure. During the following night they sailed out of this labyrinth,
through a channel about three leagues in breadth. Early in the morning
they doubled the southernmost of a number of small islands on each side
of this channel, which was denominated the _French Passage_. On the
26th, in the morning, they passed the meridian for the fifth time, and
early the next day had sight of a small island to the south-east; they
likewise saw a steep hill, remarkably high, to which they gave the name
of _Big Thomas_; near which are three small islands.
They had sight of several islands on the 27th and 28th, when Mons.
Bougainville gave orders for a boat belonging to the Etoile to steer to
the south-westernmost of these isles in search of anchorage, and to
enquire if they produced any thing worthy of notice. The boat having
landed on two islands, which neither produced any fruits, nor appeared
to be cultivated, and indicated no signs of being inhabited, the ship
was on the point of returning, when an Indian rowed up to the ship’s
boat, without expressing the least sign of fear or astonishment. The
Frenchmen intimated, that they wanted food and liquor; on which he
presented them with a kind of meal, and some water; in return for which
they gave him a looking-glass, a handkerchief, and some other trifles,
which he received with indifference, and laughed at the donors. It was
conjectured, that this negroe had deserted from one of the adjacent
islands which have been settled by the Dutch. The number of them were
formerly seven, but they are now reduced to five by earthquakes. The
crew of the Boudeuse took a turtle on this spot of not less than two
hundred weight.
Early in the morning of the 31st our voyagers had sight of the island of
Ceram, which runs in a parallel east and west, abounds in lofty
mountains, and is partly cleared, and partly in its original state. A
great number of fires were seen on this island, which seem to intimate
that it is well peopled. Early in the morning, on the first of
September, our adventurers found themselves at the entrance of a bay, on
the banks of which they beheld a number of fires; they soon observed two
boats under sail, constructed on the plan of those of Malay. A Dutch
pendant was now hoisted, and a gun fired but the Commodore confesses his
error in this procedure, as the people at Ceram are at variance with the
Dutch, whom they have almost totally routed from their island. Mons.
Bougainville having been thus unsuccessful, through mistake, returned
from the bay, and employed the rest of the day in plying between the
islands _Bonao_, _Kelang_, and _Manepo_.
Some time before midnight, a number of fires attracted their attention
to the island of Boero, where there is a Dutch factory, well provided
with the necessary refreshments.
The above-mentioned Dutch factory is at the entrance of the Gulph of
_Cajeli_, which the French had sight of at day-break. Their joy on this
occasion is not to be expressed; for at this time not half of the seamen
were able to perform any duty; and the scurvy had raged so violently,
that no man on board was perfectly clear of it. What few provisions were
on board were absolutely rotten, and stunk intolerably.
Thus circumstanced, their change of situation must have been rapturous
indeed! From midnight the fragrant breeze had wafted the aromatic
flavour of the plants, which abound in the Moluccas. “The aspect (says
our author) of a pretty large town, situated in the bottom of a gulph,
of ships at anchor there, and cattle rambling through the meadows,
caused transports which I have doubtless felt, but which I cannot here
describe.” Our Commodore hoisted Dutch colours, and fired a gun; but
though several boats were sailing in the bay, none of them came
along-side. In a few hours a periagua, rowed by Indians, advanced
towards the ship, and the commanding officer enquired in Dutch who they
were; but refused to go on board. Mons. Bougainville, however, proceeded
under all his sails, and in the afternoon came to an anchor opposite the
factory.
Two Dutch soldiers, one of whom spoke French, now came on board the
Boudeuse, demanding the reason of the Commodore’s entering that port,
when he must know that the ships of the Dutch East India Company had an
exclusive right to that privilege. He was answered, in brief, that
necessity was the motive; that hunger must preclude the force of
treaties, and that they would depart as soon as their wants were
supplied.
The soldiers soon returned with the copy of an order from the Governor
of Amboyna, who presides over the Resident at Boero, forbidding him to
admit foreign ships into that port. The Resident, therefore, entreated
Mons. Bougainville to declare, in writing, the cause of his putting in
there; that he might transmit such declaration to the Governor of
Amboyna, in justification of his own conduct.
This request being complied with, all difficulties were at an end; the
Resident having performed his duty as a servant of the Company, was
anxious to discharge the superior duties of humanity. The Commodore and
his Officers visited him on shore, were received in the most friendly
manner, and accepted his invitation to supper.
The Resident and his company beheld with equal pleasure and surprize the
effects that hunger had on the appetites of the guests; nor were they
willing to eat themselves, least they should deprive their now too happy
visitants of their full share of their repast. Mons. Bougainville
confesses, that he was supremely happy, because he had previously sent
on board what would be an equal feast to both the ships companies. A
contract was now made, that, while the ships should remain in that
harbour, venison should be daily supplied to the crews, that eighteen
oxen, a number of sheep and poultry, and a quantity of rice (to supply
the place of bread) should be put on board. The Resident was likewise
obliging enough to furnish the sick with a quantity of pulse from the
Company’s garden; but much could not be obtained, as it is not generally
cultivated on the island.
The sick were now brought on shore, and the majority of the seamen were
likewise indulged in walking about for their health and pleasure. The
Commodore hired the slaves belonging to the Company to fill the water
casks, and to carry the several necessaries on board.
Mons. Bougainville and his officers were gratified with the pleasure of
stag hunting, and he mentions the deer of this country as most exquisite
food. The Dutch originally transported them hither. This island is
described as a delightful composition of woods, hills, plains, and
well-watered vallies.
The town of Cajeli, and about fourteen Indian dwellings, formed the
Dutch settlement. A stone fort, which the Dutch had originally erected,
was accidentally blown up in the year 1689; since which time it has no
enclosure but that of palisadoes, with a battery of six small cannons.
About fifty white people are all that reside on the island, of whom a
Serjeant and twenty-five men, commanded by the Resident, form a part.
The negroes who reside in the interior parts of the country subsist by
the cultivation of rice.
The _Moors_ and the _Alfourians_ are the genuine natives of this
country; the former are protected by the Dutch factory, who endeavour to
inspire them with the dread of all foreigners. These people are
principally kept in awe by the influence of their own Chiefs, for whom
the Dutch Resident professes a sincere regard. Dutch policy, in this, as
in all their other settlements, is the same; by fomenting a jealousy
among the Chiefs of their respective dependants, a plot is no sooner
formed by one Chief, than it is revealed by another. The natives of
Boero are not treated as slaves by the Dutch; their slaves being
procured from the islands of Ceram, or Celebes.
Unlimited freedom and independence appear to reign among the Alfourians,
who, residing on the mountains in the interior parts of the island
subsist on the produce of their hunting, with fruits and sago. It is
presumed they are not Mahometans, because they eat swines flesh. The
principal people among the Alfourians pay occasional visits to the Dutch
Resident; “they would do as well (says our author) to stay at home.”
The chief products of this island are various kinds of wood,
particularly black and white ebony; and there is a fine plantation of
pepper. The fruits are pine-apples, citrons, lemons, bitter oranges,
shaddocks, bananas and cocoa-nuts. Very good barley is likewise a
produce of this country.
Parrots, and a variety of other birds, many of them extremely beautiful,
abound in the woods. There is likewise the wild cat, whose bag under the
belly serves for the conveyance of its young. Bats, and serpents of an
enormous size, the latter of which are said to have a swallow capacious
enough for the reception of a whole sheep. There is a snake too, which,
posting itself on the trees, darts into the eye of the passenger who
happens to look up, and the bite of this animal is certain death.
Crocodiles of an astonishing size reside on the banks of the rivers,
devouring such beasts as fall in their way; and men are only protected
from their fury by carrying torches in their hands. Mons. Bougainville
asserts, that these crocodiles, which roam for prey in the night, have
been even known to seize people in their boats.
The name of the Resident at Buero is Ouman; he is by birth a Batavian,
and is married to a native of Amboyna. He lives in great elegance and
splendour, and is attended by no less than a hundred slaves. Mons.
Bougainville speaks of his politeness and hospitality in very high
terms. After having twice regaled the French Officers in the ceremonious
way, he bid adieu to all set forms, but his house was constantly open to
them, as their own; they always found good viands and liquors, and our
author thinks this was no inconsiderable degree of civility to persons
who had so lately been on the point of starving.
The Resident’s house is constructed in the Chinese taste, in the middle
of a garden, which is intersected by a river: the house itself is a
handsome building, and it is elegantly furnished. Its approach is
through an avenue of trees, which are planted down to the sea-side. The
wife and daughter were habited in the Chinese manner, and were no way
deficient in the essential requisites of good breeding. Their chief
employment consists in making nosegays, and selecting flowers proper for
distillation.
The astonishment of Aotourou, at this first sight of an European
settlement, may be more easily conceived than described. He regarded
every object with an intenseness of curiosity scarcely to be satisfied;
but he was particularly charmed with the hospitality of the Dutch. He
supposed every thing freely given, as he did not see any thing returned
by way of barter. Mons. Bougainville says, that he behaved sensibly with
respect to the Dutch, to whom he intimated the consequence he was of in
his own country, and that his present voyage was merely pleasurable with
friends whom he esteemed. His constant practice was to imitate the
manners of the French, both in their visits, and in their rural
amusements. The knees of this Indian being distorted, he attributed, to
that circumstance, his not being taken with the Commodore on his first
visit to the Resident, and actually desired some of the seamen to press
their weight on his knees, to make them strait.--This, surely, is no
great proof of that good sense which Mons. Bougainville has frequently
hinted that Aotourou was possessed of!--This islander would frequently
enquire if Paris was as grand a place as Boero.
Though the French were only six days on shore, the healthful air of the
place had so far recovered the sick, that, by the help of the
refreshments now ready to be put on board, it was very possible to
perfect the cure at sea.
The sick people were conveyed to the ships in the morning of the 7th,
and before evening every one was on board, in expectation of the land
breeze, by which, after much difficulty in weighing the anchor, they
were enabled to sail about an hour before midnight, and got clear of the
gulph of Cajeli before morning.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a recital of the incidents which
occurred during his passage from Boero to Batavia, in which we shall
trace him with all necessary exactness.
Having coasted the island of Boero, the isles of Manipa and Kilang were
seen on the morning of the 8th, and on the 9th they had sight of the
island of Xullabessic, where the Dutch have a factory, named
_Cleverblad_, that is, the Clover-leaf. There is a garrison, consisting
of twenty-five men, under the discipline of a Serjeant, and commanded by
a person who holds no higher rank than book-keeper to the Dutch East
India Company.
On the 10th the Commodore buried his taylor, who fell a sacrifice to the
scurvy, encreased, when on the point of cure, by an excessive drinking
of brandy.
On the morning of the 11th they had sight of the island of Wawoni, and
in a few hours saw that of Button, the streights of which they entered
on the following day, and observed a vessel of a square form, ranging
the shore, and towing a periagua. The French ships were no sooner
observed by this vessel, than she furled her sail, and concealed herself
behind a small island. A French seaman, whom Mons. Bougainville had
engaged at Boero, said, that the vessel in question was manned by a set
of Indian pirates, who made a practice of taking prisoners, in order to
sell them.
In the afternoon the ships sailed by a beautiful port on the coast of
Celebes, the view of which land is delightfully variegated by mountains,
hills, and vallies, and clothed with an exuberance of verdure. In a few
hours afterwards the island of Pangasani was in sight, to the northward
of which appeared the highest mountains of Celebes. Pangasani is a flat
island, abounding in trees, and our author conjectures, that it produces
spices; it is, however, certain, that it is well inhabited, from the
number of fires that were seen on it during the night.
On the morning of the 13th the ships were surrounded with Indian boats,
bringing parroquets, cockatoes, fowls, eggs, and bananas, which the
natives sold for Dutch money, or exchanged for knives. These people were
inhabitants of a considerable district on the mountains of Button,
opposite the place where the ships lay at anchor. On this spot the land
is cleared and cultivated, the property of different persons, being
divided by ditches. Some of the fields are enclosed by hedges, and there
are houses in these fields; besides which there are several villages.
The produce of the country consists in potatoes, yams, rice, maize, &c.
and the bananas are deemed as good as in any part of the world.
Pine-apples, mangle apples, cocoa-nuts, and citrons, are very plentiful.
The natives are of a brown complexion, ordinary features, and of low
stature. They profess the Mahometan faith, and speak the language common
in the Molucca isles. They are very honest, though expert traders.--They
offered Mons. Bougainville some pieces of coarse cotton cloth; but he
does not say whether he dealt with them or not; he asked them for some
nutmegs, which they said they procured from the island of Ceram, and in
the neighbourhood of Banda; and his remark is, that the Dutch cannot
supply them from those places.
Our author describes the coast of Pangasani as rising in the form of an
amphitheatre, from the level of the coast, which he imagines is
frequently overflowed, because the dwellings of the natives were
observed to be situated on the slope of the hills. The people of Button
consider the inhabitants of Pangasani as pirates, and each party is
provided against the attacks of the other by a dagger, which is always
worn, stuck in the girdle.
The ships sailed on the morning of the 14th, but coming to an anchor in
a few hours afterwards, a number of periaguas surrounded the Boudeuse,
one of which hoisting Dutch colours, the rest retreated, that she might
come along side. It appeared, that in this boat was one of the Chiefs of
the country, to whom alone the Dutch permit the distinction of carrying
their colours.
Our Commodore sailed again on the 15th, and in the afternoon of that day
dispatched his barge after a boat which was seen in a large bay, with a
view to procure a pilot; and the boat readily came, having an Indian on
board, who, for thirteen shillings, readily engaged in the pilotage: but
his intended services were rendered unnecessary, by the sun happening to
shine with great lustre on a spot which directed their passing out of
the channel.
As opposing winds and tides now obliged the ships to come to an anchor,
the periaguas came off in great numbers, bringing pieces of cotton,
articles of curiosity, and variety of refreshments. At the approach of
evening the ships got clear of the narrow pass, and anchored in Bouton
Bay.
Mons. Bougainville gives an animated description of the passage he had
just cleared. The coast of Button abounds in enclosures proper for the
catching fish, while the rising grounds are bespread with habitations.
The opposite shore is perpendicular; and after passing the galley, both
sides are steep, hanging in some places over the channel. “One would
think (says our author,) that the god of the sea had opened a passage
here for the swelled waters, by a stroke of his trident.”--Might he not
as well have said, that the great God of Nature is equally wise and
wonderful in all his works?--The coast of Pangasani has two or three
houses on it, though it is little else than a solid rock, yet well
cloathed with trees.
The Indian pilot above-mentioned gave the best instructions in his
power, respecting the mode of passing this gut; but he appeared totally
unskilled in the European art of navigation. Another Indian, supposed to
be the pilot’s father, went on board the Boudeuse in the morning, and
remained till the evening. They both drank plentifully of brandy, but
would eat only bananas and chew betel, absolutely refusing to taste of
the ship’s provisions.
On the morning of the 17th, while the ships were under sail, the Indians
came off in great numbers, bringing fruit, poultry, and eggs, which they
sold so reasonably, that even the common seamen could possess themselves
of those refreshments, in very great abundance, so that both the ships
had the appearance of large poulterers shops, and capital fruiterers
warehouses on a market day.
This morning five of the _Orencaies_, or Chiefs of Button, came off in a
boat of the European form, with Dutch colours hoisted at its poop. These
people were dressed in jackets and long breeches, with turbans, and each
of them had a silver-headed cane, with the Company’s marks on it. They
gave Mons. Bougainville a Roe-buck, and received in return, each a
quantity of silk stuffs. They paid many compliments to the French
nation, freely drinking the health of his most Christian Majesty, and
the king of Button, so freely, indeed, that they were, at length,
obliged to be helped down the ship’s side into their boats.
The Commodore enquired of the Orencaies, whether any spices grew on the
island of Button; to which they replied in the negative, and were easily
credited, on account of the weakness of the Dutch settlement, which is
nothing more than a few huts, built of the Bamboo cane, and enclosed
with pallisadoes. The whole guard, on the part of the company, consists
only of a Serjeant and three men. The coast opposite Button is enclosed,
cultivated, and well-peopled; nor is the island itself less populous, or
less fruitful.
In the morning the Indian pilot visited the Commodore, and informed him,
that the south-east wind would blow freshest exactly at noon. This
proved to be strictly true, and was a circumstance so well known to the
natives, that all the boats which had surrounded the ship retired before
the sun had gained his meridian altitude.
Mons. Bougainville, taking advantage of the pilot’s advice, got out to
sea with a fair wind, steering for the island of Saleyor, which he
discovered on the 18th.--On this island the Dutch have a small
settlement, the principal Resident at which is the book-keeper. This day
at noon three islands were discovered, which were called _North Island_,
_South Island_, and _Isle of Passage_; which last was so denominated
from the ships passing near it, for the advantage of a safe navigation.
By day-light on the 19th they were within about a league of the coast of
Celebes, which, in this part is described as one of the finest countries
in the world. Immense herds of cattle graze on the plains, which are
adorned with groves, while the coast is one continued plantation of the
cocoa-nut tree. The plains are in most places cultivated and covered
with houses, while the mountains behind them add dignity and ornament to
the whole picture.
On this day Mons. Bougainville chased a Malayan boat, in the hope of
obtaining a pilot acquainted with the coast; but she fled at his
approach, nor even brought to, after he had fired several guns at her.
He conjectures, that the Boudeuse was mistaken for a Dutch ship, and
observes, that the generality of people on this coast are pirates, who
are always made slaves of when they are taken by the Dutch.
The ships having, during the evening, steered between an island named
Tanakeka, and three smaller isles, orders were given at midnight to
carry all the sail possible, in order to come within sight of the isles
of Alambai.
At midnight, between the 21st and 22d, a boat was observed advancing
towards the ships; but, though guns were repeatedly fired she bore off,
in the apprehension, as conjectured, that they were Dutch
vessels.--Mons. Bougainville’s observation is, that “these people are
more afraid of the Dutch, than of the firing of guns.”--And, indeed,
this observation seems to be verified by another boat being equally
studious to avoid them, a few hours afterwards.
In the afternoon of the 22d the north coast of Madura was seen from the
mast-head, and a number of fishing boats were observed, some at anchor,
and some employed in their business.--On the following morning four
ships were seen, two of which hoisted Dutch colours, and one of them was
spoke with by the Boudeuse, which proved to be a snow from Malacca,
bound for Japara.
Mons. Bougainville now coasted the land of Java, the shore of which is
level, but the interior country abounds in lofty mountains.
On the morning of the 26th the coast of Java appeared with the rising
sun. In the afternoon the Commodore spoke with a Dutchman, who commanded
a boat bound for the isles of Amboina and Ternate, who said that,
according to his reckoning, he was then twenty-six leagues from Batavia.
Having come to an anchor for the night, the ships sailed early in the
morning of the 27th, and, on the following night, came to an anchor, in
the fear of having even past the port of Batavia; but having sight of
the church of that town in the morning, they sailed into, and soon
anchored in the road, happy to have, after so many toils, difficulties
and dangers, reached a spot which they conceived would soon put a period
to all their misfortunes, by ensuring them a safe arrival in Europe.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to recite such incidents as happened
during the time he was at Batavia, and gives some particulars respecting
the Molucca islands.
We scarce know how to treat this subject with the delicacy with which it
ought to be touched, as the readers of these volumes are already
apprized of almost every interesting particular respecting Batavia; but
we shall, with the utmost diligence, select such circumstances as our
French historian has recorded, which have been either unknown to, or not
treated of by the English navigators.
Mons. Bougainville, for reasons which would operate on every prudent
Commander, resolved to make his stay at Batavia as short as possible;
but the want of biscuit, a sufficient quantity of which was not baked,
compelled him to stay longer than he had intended.
A Dutch officer came on board with a written paper, of which our
Frenchman understood not a word: but the Cockswain having enquired who
their visitants were, demanded a certificate, written and signed by the
commanding officer. Mons. Bougainville, who had sent an officer on shore
to wait on the Governor, declined to give any answer till his return.
This Officer came back late in the evening with an account, that his
Excellency was at his country-house, but that he had been with the
_Shebander_, who promised to introduce the Commodore to the Dutch
General, on the following day.
The heat of this climate requires, that visits should be made early in
the morning: Mons. Bougainville therefore set out soon after day-break,
and, after waiting on the Shebander, was by him conducted to the
Governor General, who was then at one of his country residences about
nine miles from the town.
The behaviour of this Chief of an important district was equally sincere
and obliging: he approved of the conduct of the Resident at Boero, in
his treatment of the French during the hour of their distress. He gave
permission for the sick to be lodged in the hospital, and issued the
proper orders for their being received. The furnishing of the necessary
supplies was left to the Shebander, and when all matters of business
were ended, the Governor asked the Commodore if he would salute the
citadel. To this it was answered in the affirmative, on the condition
that the salute should be properly returned. These preliminaries being
adjusted, Mons. Bougainville went on board his ship, saluted with
fifteen guns, and was complimented with the same number.
Considering the matter seriously, is not all this most egregious
nonsense?--A Frenchman agrees to waste a certain quantity of his
Master’s powder, provided a Dutchman will blow into the air, an equal
quantity of the powder of their High Mightinesses, the States General!
The sick people were now sent to the hospital, twenty-eight in number,
most of whom were troubled with the bloody flux, and the rest with the
scurvy.
The officers having taken lodgings in the town, fixed a day for paying a
visit of ceremony to the Governor, at his country-seat, called Jacatra;
after which they visited, in form, an officer called _Schout-by-Nacht_,
or _Rear Admiral_, who is a member of the Regency, and has a vote in
every matter respecting maritime affairs. This gentleman lives with a
degree of splendor that would not disgrace a Prince.
Mons. Bougainville mentions the theatre of Batavia, as an elegant
building; but of the performances he was not qualified to judge, from a
total ignorance of the language. His curiosity impelled him to take a
view of the Chinese comedies, but of these, also, he could form no
judgment but from sight. Exclusive of the exhibitions on the regular
theatres, he says, that a kind of pantomine is daily performed, on
scaffolds erected in the Chinese quarter of the city. It is a
singularity of the Chinese comedy, that the characters of men are
represented by women; nor is it unfrequent to see the actors entertain
the spectators with a boxing-match.
Our ingenious voyager represents the neighbourhood of Batavia as elegant
beyond description.--The neatness is all Dutch; the magnificence truly
Parisian.--A clergyman of Batavia, Mr. Mohr, distinguished for his
immense riches, and his extensive knowledge, has erected, in the garden
of one of his country-houses, one of the most superb observatories in
the world, and has furnished it with great variety of instruments of the
construction of European artists. Our author observes, that he “is
doubtless the richest of all the children of Urania.”
The water of Batavia is of so bad a quality, that the people of fortune
import Seltzer water from Holland, for their common drinking, at a most
enormous expence. The houses of this city are built only one story high,
on account of the frequent earthquakes, which would be of pernicious
consequence to buildings of a lofty construction.
The riches of the Batavians are marked by the magnificent taste in which
their houses are furnished; yet is the city said to be much inferior to
what it was some years ago; and it is certain, that the rent of houses
is not half as much as it was: yet will this place always be rich,
through the refined policy of the Dutch, which makes it difficult for
any man, after he has amassed a fortune, to transmit it to Europe: for
any money intended to be sent to Holland, must pass through the hands of
the Company, who charge eight per cent. for the care of sending it to
Europe; exclusive of which, the current-money of Batavia would sustain a
loss of no less than twenty-eight per cent. even if it could be smuggled
out of the country.
The distinction of rank is observed in the strictest degree at Batavia.
What the French call the _Etiquette_ is never dispensed with. The
gradation of rank is as follows, viz. the high Regency, the Court of
Justice, the Ecclesiastics, the Company’s servants, the sea officers,
and those of the military.
There is no appeal from the decisions of the Court of Justice. This
court, about twenty years since, sentenced to death the Governor of
Ceylon, who had been convicted of most infamous oppressions in his
government; and he was executed opposite the citadel at Batavia.
If any of the respective sovereigns of the island of Java offend against
the established Dutch policy, they are put to death in the most inhuman
manner. On these melancholy occasions, the unhappy sufferers are dressed
in white drawers, and are never beheaded, from a conviction prevalent
among them, that appearing in any other dress, or visiting the other
world without their heads, would be productive of the most fatal
consequences: nor do the Dutch dare to controvert these opinions, as the
immediate consequence of such a procedure on their part would be a
revolt of that of the Javanese.
The Dutch Company have an exclusive right to a large part of the island
of Java.--The island of Madura did formerly belong to them, but the
Chief of it revolted from their authority, and the son of this revolting
king is at present the Governor of that very island, of which his father
had been the Sovereign.
The Dutch, equally deep in every stroke of their politics, have seized
the province of Balimburan, in consequence of the Sovereign of that
district having revolted from their authority. It is asserted, that the
English erected him a fort, and supplied him with arms and ammunition to
combat that slavery, which he thought the more an indignity, because it
was impelled by the mercantile world. After a war of two years, and
after repeated battles, in the last of which the Javanese Prince and his
family were made prisoners, the Dutch became final conquerors, and the
routed Sovereign being lodged in the citadel of Batavia, soon fell a
sacrifice to the grief that preyed on his mind. When Mons. Bougainville
arrived at Batavia, it was in agitation to send the son and the other
branches of this unhappy family to the Cape of Good Hope, in order that
they might spend the remains of a wretched existence on the island of
Roben. The several Chiefs of the different districts of the island of
Java are surrounded with Dutch guards, so that they are Kings only in
name. From these, however, the Dutch receive arrac, rice, sugar, coffee
and tin; in return for which they supply opium, the sale of which is
very profitable, from the great quantities consumed by the Javanese.
Our Commodore now proceeds to a description of the commerce of Batavia,
and a recital of many particulars respecting the Molucca islands; but
these particulars, or others so exceedingly resembling them, being
recorded in many volumes of voyages, we shall pass them over in search
of something really new, and respecting which our author appears to have
been well informed.
Before the crews of the Boudeuse and Etoile had been ten days at
Batavia, the diseases common to that climate began to attack them with
all their fury. From a vigorous state of health the people were, in a
few days, reduced to the brink of the grave; nor could the Commodore’s
utmost diligence enable him to transact his affairs with a proper degree
of dispatch, as the illness of the Shebander himself prevented the
acceleration of his business.
Every officer on board the Boudeuse began to feel the fatal effects of
the climate; and, at length, Aotourou felt the direful influence of this
pestiferous clime; and it is supposed, that nothing but the readiness
with which he took the prescriptions offered him, could have saved him
from the most fatal consequences of the contagion. For a long time after
he left Batavia, he distinguished it by the name of _Enoua Matè_, the
land which kills.
Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a description of his leaving Batavia,
his touching at the isle of France, and his return to his native
country, of which we shall have occasion to say but little, as the run
from Batavia to Europe is universally well known, and has been
previously described in the course of these volumes.
The ships sailed on the 16th of October, 1768, and cleared the streights
of Sunda on the 19th in the afternoon. By this time the crew were all
perfectly recovered of the scurvy, but a few of them remained ill of the
bloody-flux. On the 20th the ships were in sight of the isle of France,
and on the 8th of November, the Boudeuse anchored in the port of that
island; the Etoile, which had been unavoidably left behind, anchoring in
the same port on the following day.
At this place the ships were repaired, and the Commodore left behind him
on the island several persons, who desired to add to the numbers already
in that colony.
The Commodore expresses his happiness that he was enabled, after so
tedious a voyage, to enrich this colony with inhabitants and
necessaries; but he laments in the most pathetic terms the death of the
Chevalier du Bouchage, an Ensign on board the King’s ship, whose
abilities as an officer could be surpassed only by his virtues and
accomplishments as a man.
Our author speaks, in the most lavish terms, of the forges for making
iron, which are established on this island, and he even prefers them to
those of Europe; how far he is justified in this preference, must be
left to future navigators, or future artificers to determine.
Mons. Bougainville sailed from this place the 12th of December, 1768,
leaving the Etoile behind him, to undergo some necessary repairs; and
this ship did not arrive in France till a month after the Boudeuse.
Without encountering any singular accident, our adventurers had sight of
the Cape of Good Hope on the 18th of January, and came to an anchor in
Table Bay on the following morning.
Our author very judiciously omits a description of the Cape, which has
been so often and so accurately described by our circumnavigators, and
other voyagers: one circumstance, however, he fails not to mention, that
they killed a quadrupede, named the _Giraffe_, which was seventeen feet
in height, and that they took the young one alive, which measured seven
feet. “None of these (says our author) had been seen after that which
was brought to Rome in the time of Cæsar, and shewn there in the
amphitheatre.”
Mons. Bougainville sailed from the Cape on the 17th, and came to an
anchor off the island of St. Helena on the 4th of February, where he
remained till the 6th, and then got under sail in pursuance of his
voyage to France.
On the 25th of this month the Commodore joined the Swallow, commanded by
Captain Carteret: what passed in consequence of this junction the
readers of these volumes are already acquainted with.
Nothing material happened from this time till they had sight of the isle
of Ushant, when a violent squall of wind had nearly blasted all the
blooming hopes of so fine a voyage. On the 15th the Commodore bore away
for St. Maloes, which he entered on the following day, after an absence
of two years and four months from his native country; during all which
time he had buried only seven of his crew, a circumstance that will be
deemed truly astonishing, when we reflect on the variety of dangers they
had encountered; the amazing changes of climate they had experienced;
the _hair breadth_ perils they had escaped, and the estimated proportion
of time that any man may be supposed to live, at any given age, when in
full health, and breathing his native air. To what then shall we ascribe
the unexampled success of Mons. Bougainville’s circumnavigation, but to
the benevolent interposition of that _particular providence_, the
existence of which hath been lately so boldly, and with such apparent
weight of argument, denied.
Thus have we traced, with the pen of fidelity, this ingenious historian,
from the milder climate of France to the frozen regions of the
Magellanic streights; and from those streights through the intense
burnings of the torrid zone, back again to the benevolent influence of
the European sun; and abating that vanity peculiar to the French, and
that nationality, which, if criminal, is a crime arising from a noble
and praise-worthy cause, we must confess, that his narrative is as much
more philosophical and ingenious, as it is more pert and flippant than
the narratives of our English adventurers! Mons. Bougainville has
introduced, in the body of his volume, a narrative of the establishment
of the Spaniards in Rio de la Plata; and also an account of the missions
in Paraguay, and the expulsion of the Jesuits from that province: but as
these recitals seemed to have no immediate connection with the
Commodore’s circumnavigation, we have not interrupted the narrative,
thinking they would come in with more propriety immediately after the
close of the voyage.
The river de la Plata takes a southerly course to the 34th degree
latitude, where it is united with the river Uraguai, making one stream,
which runs still southerly to the ocean. The Jesuits have advanced a
false principle of geography, and other authors have fell into their
errors, by supposing the river de la Plata to spring from the lake of
Xaragés. This lake, which has been the subject of much enquiry, is now
supposed to have no existence.
By order of the courts of Spain and Portugal, the Marquis of Valdelirais
and Don George Menezés, undertook to determine the limits of possession
of these two powers; and accordingly several Spanish and Portuguese
officers, traveled this large district of America between the years 1751
and 1755. The Spaniards embarked on the river Paraguai, and the
Portuguese proceeded from a settlement belonging to the Crown of
Portugal, called Maragosso, situated on the interior boundaries of the
Brazils, at about 12 degrees south latitude, and proceeded up the river
Caourou, which, according to the maps of the Jesuits, is described as
falling into the lake Xaragés. But how great was their surprize and
disappointment at meeting in the 14th degree of south latitude, in the
river Paraguai, without finding any thing to justify the supposition of
the existence of the lake! Hence it was concluded, that the periodical
inundations of the river over a considerable tract of the adjacent
country, having been received in the low grounds, formed a body of
water, which, by former navigators, was taken for the ideal lake.
The source of the Paraguai, or Rio de la Plata, is among the mountains,
between the two oceans, and between five and six degrees south latitude,
and it empties itself into the river of Amazons. The Uraguai arises in
the Captainship of St. Vincent’s, in the Brazils; and the Parana in the
mountains to the east north-east of Rio Janeiro, whence it flows to the
westward, and then changes its course to the south.
It appears, from the account of the Abbé Prevost, that Diaz de Solis
first discovered the Parana in 1515, and called it after himself, but
that in 1526 Sebastian Cabot named it la Plata, or of silver, on account
of the many pieces of silver which he observed in the possession of the
natives of the adjacent country. The fort of Espirutu Santo was erected
by Cabot, who had scarcely time to see it completed before it was
levelled with the earth.
In 1535, Don Pedro de Mendoza, great Cup-bearer to the Emperor, sailed
for the river de la Plata, and founded Buenos Ayres; but this
undertaking proved extremely unsuccessful; and after Mendoza’s death,
the inhabitants of Buenos Ayres, unable to defend themselves against the
depredations of the Indians, and living in perpetual dread of famine,
fled for sanctuary to Assumption, now the capital of Paraguai, which was
built by the followers of Mendoza, soon became well inhabited, and, of
course, considerably enlarged. Don Pedro Artiz de Zarara, Governor of
Paraguai, rebuilt Buenos Ayres, upon an improved plan, in the year 1580,
and it soon became the principal resort of ships navigating the South
Seas; soon after which it was an episcopal see, and the place of
residence of the chief magistrate. The situation of Buenos Ayres is
computed to be in 34 deg. 55 min. south latitude, and 61 deg. 5 min.
west longitude from Paris. The inhabitants, including negroes, do not
exceed twenty thousand, notwithstanding which, the town covers a very
large space of ground, owing to the generality of the habitations having
no more than a ground floor, with spacious courtyards and extensive
gardens. The public market is held in a grand square, the angles of
which are formed by the Governor’s palace, the town hall, the cathedral
and the episcopal palace. There is no harbour at Buenos Ayres, so that
ships of any considerable burden are obliged to sail to Encenada de
Baragon, about ten leagues east south-east of the town, or else receive
and deliver their freights by means of small boats.
Adjoining to the Jesuit’s convent, there is a building, called the house
for the exercises of women, where married and unmarried people, without
the consent of their husbands or friends, sequester themselves for the
space of twelve days, during which time various religious exercises are
practiced, almost without intermission. There are holy ceremonies
appointed for the slaves; and such of the negroes, as pay four reals per
annum to the Dominicans, are admitted members of some religious
community, are intitled to certain holidays, to hear mass, and a decent
interment at the expence of the friars.
This community of negroes acknowledge St. Benedict of Palermo, and the
Virgin for their patrons; and on the days dedicated to these saints they
select two persons to represent the kings of Spain and Portugal, who are
followed by all the negroes of the order, parading through the streets
from the rising to the sitting of the sun, singing, dancing,
representing battles, and repeating religious incantations.
The grounds near Buenos Ayres are extremely fruitful, producing all the
real necessaries of life; but it is entirely uncultivated at only three
leagues distance; and in crossing the plains scarce a hovel is to be met
with; so that passengers are frequently under the necessity of sleeping
in their carriages, and those who go on horseback are often, for many
successive nights, exposed to the inclemency of the weather. Horses and
black cattle abound in these plains, and the latter are frequently
killed by travellers, who take away sufficient for a few meals, and
leave the rest for the birds and beasts of prey. The only furious
animals known here are wild dogs and tygers: the former, which are said
to have been originally brought from Europe, are both fierce and
numerous; and perhaps owing to their food, and the climate seem, as it
were, greatly to have altered their species; the latter are of the usual
kind, but are not very frequently met with.
In the neighbourhood of Buenos Ayres wood is so extremely scarce, that
very little is to be found that will even serve for fuel, and what is
used in erecting and repairing houses, or in refitting vessels, is
transported from Paraguai.
The Indians inhabiting this part of America are of a copper complexion,
seldom exceeding five feet in stature, and of a very forbidding aspect.
Their Chief is distinguished by a thong of leather tied round his
forehead, to which are fastened several plates of copper. The arms they
use are bows and arrows, nooses and balls. These balls are about the
circumference of a two pound cannon ball, and being received in leathern
cups at the end of cords of about six or seven feet long, they throw
them when on horseback, with such amazing force and dexterity, as to be
almost at a certainty of killing an animal at the distance of three
hundred yards.
Some years ago a number of delinquents, escaping the punishment they
were sentenced to, retreated to the north of the Maldonadoes, where
being joined by some deserters and Indian women, they have formed a
community of desperadoes. They frequently plunder the Spanish
settlements, and carry their spoils to the boundaries of the Brazils,
where they receive, in exchange for them, fire-arms and clothes, from
the Paulists, another desperate race of robbers, supposed to be between
six and seven hundred in number, who removed from Brazil farther to the
north-west about the sixteenth century; since which time they have
continually traversed the adjacent country in parties; and such
travellers as are so unfortunate as to meet with them, generally fall
victims to their cruelty and rapine.
The governments of Tucuman and Paraguai, with the missions of the
Jesuits, are dependent upon the Governor-general of la Plata, who, in
all matters relating to the silver mines of Potosi, is under the
jurisdiction of the Viceroy of Peru. A mint having been lately
established at Potosi, the silver will not in future be brought from
thence in the ore, but refined on the spot.
Two hundred carts, attended by three hundred men, go annually from
Buenos Ayres to fetch salt from the lakes adjacent to the sea in
forty-three degrees latitude; and the necessity of obtaining salt is the
only motive that induces the Spaniards to travel so far south of Buenos
Ayres, where the country exhibits a melancholy prospect of dreary and
uncultivated wilds.
The principal commerce of Buenos Ayres is with Peru and Chili, to which
province they send cotton, mules, some skins, and about four hundred
thousand Spanish pounds weight of the Paraguai herb, or South Sea tea
every year; great part of this last article is consumed by the labourers
in the Peruvian mines; it being esteemed a most excellent preventative
against the effects of the noxious vapours arising from those
inexhaustible funds of treasure.
Notwithstanding there is but little trade at Buenos Ayres, it is a place
of such great riches, that the register ships frequently carry away a
million of dollars each; and if they were inclined to extend their skin
and fur trade, those articles alone would, undoubtedly, acquire them
immense wealth.
Montevideo was built between forty and fifty years since, upon a
peninsula, to the north of the river, and about ninety miles above its
mouth. The town has a bay, affording safe anchorage, but in boisterous
weather some skill must be exerted, to keep clear of a chain of hidden
rocks off the east point of the bay, which are called Punta de las
Carretas. The town of Montevideo affords every refreshment; and the air
being particularly salubrious, renders it still more inviting to the
sons of Neptune, who here find a happy renewal of that health and
vigour, which, from various causes, must inevitably be impaired by a
long residence on the stormy element.
The Jesuits took up their residence at Paraguay in the year 1580, and in
the time of Philip the Third founded their celebrated missions, called
indifferently by the Europeans Paraguai or Uraguai. These missions are
thirty-seven in number; twenty-nine being on one side of the river
Uraguai, and eight on the opposite shore.
The Jesuits undertook to convert the natives of this tract of America to
the Roman Catholic religion, and in order to encourage them to pursue
this very difficult task with a proper degree of spirit, they were
rendered independent of the Governor’s authority, and allowed an annual
stipend of sixty thousand piastres for their necessary expences. And in
order to indemnify the Crown for this expence, a tax of one piastre per
head was levied upon all the Indians between the age of eighteen and
sixty.
Notwithstanding the many and great obstacles which would have dispirited
less determined men, the Jesuits, by a steady perseverance, the most
ardent zeal, and a strict attention to the genius and disposition of
these savages, at length, civilized their manners, implanted in their
minds the principles of the Christian religion, and made them happy
within themselves and useful to the community.
In the year 1757 the Spanish monarch having given up the colonies on the
left shore of the river to the Portuguese, in exchange for Santo
Sacramento, with a view to suppress the smuggling trade, the Indians of
the ceded colonies, disgusted at being driven from their cultivated
lands, took up arms against the Spaniards. Don Joseph Andonaighi,
Governor-general of the province de la Plata, and Don Joachim de Viana,
Governor of Montevideo, marched against, and entirely defeated them.
Soon after this battle the insurrections being quelled, Viana left
Buenos Ayres, and was accompanied as far as the Maldonados by seven
Indian families, where they settled, leading a life of exemplary
prudence and industry. The situation of these reclaimed people gives an
idea of what the poets call the golden age: they knew no distinction of
rank, were neither incumbered with riches, nor oppressed with poverty;
and as all their wants were supplied from the warehouses appointed to
receive the produce of the common labour, they had no incitement to use
sinister and clandestine means to obtain private property.
The country in which the missions are situated, reaches about four
hundred and fifty miles east and west, and about six hundred miles north
and south; and the number of the inhabitants is computed to be three
hundred thousand. There are immense forests of all kinds of wood, and
extensive meadows, watered by innumerable small rivers and brooks, which
produce pasture sufficient for upwards of two millions of cattle.
The country was divided into districts, over each of which two Jesuits
were appointed to preside; one of whom acted as Rector, and the other as
his Curate. The Indians lived in the most abject state of submission to
their Rectors, who severely chastised them for misdemeanours, and
annually appointed a number of inferior officers, called Corregidors, to
take cognizance of petty offences.
Near the church are two large buildings; one of which was inhabited by a
great number of girls, who were instructed in various occupations. The
other building was occupied by young negroe men, who were brought up to
various handicraft professions; and one department of this building was
appointed to the teaching of music, sculpture, architecture, &c. The
Rector’s house stood between these buildings, and had communications
with each, which he visited every day to see the provisions justly
distributed, and the proper decorum in other respects strictly observed.
The entire expulsion of the Jesuits from the Spanish dominions having
been resolved upon, Don Francis Buccarelli was appointed to carry this
design into execution; and he accordingly sailed for Buenos Ayres,
arrived there in the beginning of 1767, and immediately sent the
dispatches with which he was charged, to the Governors of Peru and
Chili, and the commanders of Cordoua, Mendoza, Corrientes, Santa-Fe,
Salta, Montevideo, and Paraguay. These dispatches were accompanied by
letters, strictly enjoining the persons, to whom the dispatches from the
Court were directed, not to open them till an appointed day. As it was a
matter of doubt, whether the Indians would tamely submit to see Jesuits
arrested in the colonies, all the preparations for carrying the King’s
orders into execution were conducted with the most profound secrecy. The
time for accomplishing this grand design at length arrived, and the
different Governors being previously instructed to open their letters,
and to proceed according to their contents, with all imaginable
dispatch.
The general execution began about two o’clock in the morning, when the
Jesuits, with equal horror and astonishment, found their habitations
invested by the Spanish troops.
They evinced a high degree of philosophical resignation and humility in
quietly submitting to their fate, which they confessed was not so severe
as their crimes deserved.
On the thirteenth of September a Cacique belonging to each colony, and
all the corregidors, arrived at Buenos Ayres. These people were
politically detached from their companions by the following stratagem,
with a design of securing them as hostages, in case any resistance had
been made. The Governor-general sent for them, under pretence of
communicating the substance of the King’s letters; and these deluded
people were not informed of the events that had happened, till they
received the account from the mouth of the Governor, who gave them a
general audience, immediately upon their arrival; when the Governor
informed them, that he came to free them from the slavery they had long
groaned under, and directing them to one of the houses formerly occupied
by the Jesuits, they were there properly provided for at the King’s
expence. The Jesuits had established other missions than those
abovementioned to the south of Uraguay, and were making great progress
southward of Chili, towards the island of Chiloé; but the unexpected
turn of affairs in Europe utterly destroyed the work, the completion of
which had been an object of great attention for a long series of years.
VOCABULARY of the Language of TAITI ISLAND.
Abobo, _To-morrow_.
Aibou, _Come_.
Ainé, _Girl_ (_fille_)
Aiouta, _There is some_.
Aouererê, _Black_.
Aouero, _Egg_.
Aouri, _Iron, gold, silver, every metal, or instrument of
metal_.
Aoutti, _Flying fish_.
Aouira, _Lightning_.
Apalari, _To break or destroy_.
Ari, _Cocoa-nut_.
Ateatea, _White_.
Ea, _Root_.
Eai, _Fire_.
Eame, _Drink made of cocoa-nuts_.
Eani, _All manner of fighting_.
Eivi, _Little_.
Eite, _To understand_.
Elao, _A fly_.
Emaa, _A sling_.
Emeitai, _To give_.
Emoe, _To sleep_.
Enapo, _Yesterday_.
Enoanoa, _To smell well_.
Enoo-te-papa, _Sit down_.
Enoua-Taiti, _The country of Taiti_.
Enoua-Paris, _The country of Paris_.
Eo, _To sweat_.
Eoe-tea, _An arrow_.
Eoe-pai, _A paddle or oar_.
Eonou, _Turtle_.
Eouai, _Rain_.
Eouri, _A dancer_.
Eouriaye, _A dancing-girl_.
Epouré, _To pray_.
Era, _The sun_.
Eraï, _Heaven_.
Ero, _Ant_.
Eri, _King_.
Erie, _Royal_.
Etai, _Sea_.
Eteina, _Elder brother or sister_.
Etouana, _Younger brother or sister_.
Etio, _Oyster_.
Etoi, _A butcher_.
THE BOOKSELLER’S ADVERTISEMENT.
TO THE READER.
Having in the former part of this Collection given an authentic account
of the proceedings and discoveries of the English navigators who have
lately surrounded the globe; and also a copious detail of the voyage of
a cotemporary navigator of another nation, who, jealous of the English
designs, was commissioned to follow the same track. That the present
undertaking may not want novelty to recommend it, I have procured, at a
considerable expence, the journal of a new voyage to the northern part
of the globe; a voyage which his Majesty, in a particular manner, has
thought fit to patronize, and which was equipped with such care and
circumspection, that nothing was found wanting during the course of it.
This voyage I have added by way of Supplement, without any additional
expence to the subscribers; and have prefixed to it a brief
recapitulation of the many attempts that have been made for the
discovery of a north-east passage to China and Japan, and also have
subjoined a like summary of the enterprizes set on foot by government,
or undertaken by private adventurers, for discovering a communication
with the great pacific ocean by a passage from the north-west.
These accounts are full of astonishing events, and wonderful
descriptions of uncommon phenomena. In them we read of rivers and lakes
of ice, bursting with imprisoned vapours; and of rocks, forests, beams
of houses and buildings, splitting with a noise not less terrible than
the loudest thunder.--Of brandy, Brine, and even spirits of wine,
exposed to the open air, only for a few hours, freezing into a solid
mass.--Of mountains of ice frozen in the sea one hundred fathom
deep.--Of snow hills that never thaw.--And of winds that blister the
flesh, and shrivel the skin like red-hot iron.
In this Supplement the distresses, dangers, providential deliverances,
and unspeakable sufferings of those who have wintered in the dark and
dreary regions of the north, are recounted with clearness and brevity;
and, in the small compass of a few sheets, the contents of many volumes
are comprized.
SUPPLEMENT,
CONTAINING THE
JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE
UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER OF
HIS PRESENT MAJESTY,
For making DISCOVERIES towards the
NORTH POLE,
BY THE
HON. COMMODORE PHIPPS,
AND
CAPTAIN LUTWIDGE,
IN HIS
MAJESTY’s SLOOPS
RACEHORSE AND CARCASE.
To which is prefixed,
An Account of the several VOYAGES undertaken for the Discovery of a
North-East Passage to China and Japan.
[Illustration: _A Map_ of the ICY SEA in which the several
Communications with the _Land Waters_ and other new _Discoveries_ are
exhibited.
_J. Gibson Sculp._]
THE
INTRODUCTION.
It is fortunate for commerce, and the intercourse of nations, that there
is implanted in man’s nature a desire of novelty, which no present
gratification can satisfy; that when he has visited one region of the
earth, he is still, like Alexander, sighing for another to explore; and
that, after having escaped one danger in his progress, he is no less
eager to encounter others, that may chance to obstruct him in the course
of his pursuits.
If the history of former hardships could have deterred men from engaging
in new adventures, the Voyage, the particulars of which we are now about
to relate, would probably never have been undertaken. The dreary regions
that surround the poles are so little accustomed to feel the kindly
influences of the enlivening sun, and are so destitute of the ordinary
productions of the earth in happier climates, that little less than one
whole quarter of the globe is, by its sterility, rendered uninhabitable
by human beings, and but thinly occupied by a very inconsiderable number
of the race of quadrupedes. The many and almost insuperable difficulties
that must therefore be expected in traversing these forlorn desarts,
where no relief is to be expected, but from the favourable interposition
of that power, whose merciful providence extends to the remotest corners
of the earth, are, upon reflection, enough to cool the ardour of the
most enterprising, and to stagger the resolution of the most intrepid.
In the contention between powers, equally formed by nature to meet an
opposition, it may be glorious to overcome; but to encounter raging
seas, tremendous rocks, and bulwarks of solid ice, and desperately to
persist in attempts to prevail against such formidable enemies; as the
conflict is hopeless, so the event is certain. The hardiest and most
skilful navigator, after exposing himself and his companions to the most
perilous dangers, and suffering in proportion to his hardiness the most
complicated distresses, must at last submit to return home without
success, or perish by his perseverance.
This observation will be sufficiently justified, by a brief
recapitulation of the Voyages that have been undertaken, with a view to
the discovery of a North-east Passage to China and Japan.
The first who attempted this discovery was Sir Hugh Willoughby, with
three ships, so early as the year 1553, the æra of perilous enterprizes.
This gentleman sailed to the latitude of 75 degrees north, within sight,
as it is imagined, of New Greenland, now called Spitsbergen; but by a
storm was driven back, and obliged to winter in the river Arzena, in
Lapland, where he was frozen to death with all his company. He left upon
his table a concise account of all his discoveries, in which he
mentions, having sailed within sight of a country in a very high
latitude, about which geographers are divided; some affirming, as has
been said, that it could be no other than New Greenland, afterwards
discovered, and named by the Dutch Spitsbergen; others, that what he saw
was only a fog-bank; and of this latter opinion is Capt. Wood, an able
navigator, of whom we shall have occasion to speak hereafter.
To Sir Hugh Willoughby succeeded Capt. Burroughs, afterwards Comptroller
of the Navy to Queen Elizabeth. This gentleman attempted the passage
with better fortune, and returned full of hope, but without success. He
passed the North cape in 1556, advanced as far north as the 78th degree,
discovered the Wygate, or strait that divides Nova Zembla from the
country of the Sammoyds, now subject to Russia: and having passed the
easternmost point of that strait, arrived at an open sea, from whence he
returned, having, as he imagined, discovered the passage so painfully
sought, and so ardently desired. Some affirm, his discoveries extended
beyond the 80th degree of latitude, to a country altogether desolate,
where the mountains were blue and the valleys snow.
Be that as it may, the favourable report of Capt. Burroughs encouraged
Queen Elizabeth to fit out two stout vessels to perfect the discovery.
The command of these ships was given to the Captains Jackman and Pett,
who, in 1580, sailed through the same strait, that had been discovered
by Burroughs, and entered the eastern sea; where the ice poured in so
fast upon them, and the weather became so tempestuous, that after
enduring incredible hardships, and sustaining the most dreadful shocks
of ice and seas, terrible even in the relation, they were driven back
and separated; and neither Pett nor his ship or crew were ever heard of
afterwards.
After this disaster and disappointment, the desire of visiting the
frozen seas to the north-east began to abate among the English, but was
assumed by the Dutch with an obstinate perseverance, peculiar to that
phlegmatic nation. The first Dutchman we read of who made the attempt
was John Cornelius, of whose voyage, in 1595, we have but a very
imperfect account; he was followed however in 1606 by William Barrans,
or, as some write, Barents, an able and experienced seaman and
mathematician, who being supplied with every necessary for so hazardous
a voyage, by the generosity and patronage of Prince Maurice, proceeded
in the same course which had been pointed out to him by the English
navigators; but having passed the Wygate, found the like incumbrances,
and the like tempests which the English had experienced; and not being
able to bear up against them, returned thoroughly convinced, that the
wished-for passage was not to be attained in that direction. However, he
traversed the coast of Nova Zembla, gave names to several promontories
and head-lands, and planned to himself a new course to steer, by which
he hoped to accomplish what he had failed in discovering, by following
the steps of those who had gone before him.
In 1607, animated rather than discouraged by disappointment, he entered
upon his second voyage, with the spirit of a man fully prepossessed with
success. He had heard, that some of the whalers, who had now begun to
frequent the North Seas, had, either by design or accident, advanced
much farther to the northward than those who had been purposely fitted
out upon discoveries; he therefore determined to steer to the northward
of Nova Zembla, till he should arrive at the height of the pole, under
which he was persuaded he should find an open sea; and, by changing his
course to the southward, avoid those obstructions which had retarded his
passage to the north-east.
In this hope he continued till he arrived on the coast of Nova Zembla,
where, before he had reached the 77th degree, he was so rudely attacked
by the mountains of ice, that every where assailed him, that not being
able to withstand their fury, he was driven against the rocks, and his
ship dashed to pieces. Barents and the greatest part of his crew got
safe to land, but it was to experience greater misery than those
underwent who perished in the attempt. They were obliged to winter in a
country, where no living creature besides themselves appeared to have
existence; and where, notwithstanding their utmost efforts to preserve
their bodies from the cold, the flesh perished upon the bones of some of
them, and others died of the most excruciating pains.
In this extremity, and notwithstanding the anguish they endured, those
who survived had still the fortitude and ingenuity to frame a pinnace
from the wreck of their broken ship, in which, at the approach of
summer, they made sail for Lapland; but before they arrived at Colu,
their Captain died, and with him the hopes of perfecting his discovery.
It was now the active season for naval enterprizes. Private adventurers
began to fit out ships for the North Seas. Innumerable sea animals had
been observed to bask upon the ice; the tusks of whose jaws were found
to excel, in whiteness, the finest ivory, and their carcases to yield
plenty of excellent oil. In the infancy of the whale fishery, these were
pursued with the same eagerness, with which both the English and Dutch
endeavour at this day to make the whales their prey, and perhaps with no
less profit. In following these, many islands were discovered to which
they resorted, and, in course of time, the seas that were so formidable
to the first discoverers, became frequented at the proper seasons by the
ships of every nation.
Foreign navigators, however, were more sanguine in their notions of a
north-west passage, than of the existence of a passage to the
north-east; and it was not till many unsuccessful trials had been made
to discover the former, that the latter was again attempted. The
celebrated Hudson, who discovered the straits that leads to the great
western bay, which still bears his name; after he had exerted his skill
in vain to find a passage westward, was persuaded at last to undertake a
voyage in search of a passage to the north-east. This he performed in
1610, but being discouraged by the miscarriages of others, and the fatal
issue that had attended their obstinate perseverance, on viewing the
face of the country, examining the currents, and traversing an immense
continent of ice, that stretched along the ocean, in a direction from
east south-east to west north-west, he concluded, that no passage could
be practicable in that direction, and therefore returned without making
any other material discovery.
From this time till the year 1676, the prosecution of this discovery was
totally neglected by the English; and though the Dutch whalers amused
the world with wonderful relations of their near approach to the pole,
yet little credit was given to their reports till the arrival of one
John Wood, who had accompanied Sir John Narborough in his voyage to the
South Sea, with a view to establish a new trade with the Chilians, and
natives of that vast tract of country, reaching from the Straits of
Magellan to the confines of Peru.
This able and enterprizing navigator, being himself an excellent
mathematician and geographer, and reading in the Philosophical
Transactions a paper, by which the existence of a north-east passage to
the eastern or Indian ocean was plausibly asserted, and this exactly
coinciding with his own notions of the construction of the globe, he was
induced, by this and other reasons, to apply to King Charles the Second
for a commission to prosecute the discovery; the accomplishment whereof,
it was said, would add to the glory of his Majesty’s reign, and
immensely to the wealth and prosperity of his kingdoms.
Many about the Court of that needy Prince, hoping to share in the
profits of the voyage, were earnest in prevailing with his Majesty to
forward the design, who being himself fond of novelty, ordered the
Speedwell Frigate to be fitted out at his own charge, manned,
victualled, and provided with every necessary; while the Duke, his
brother, and seven other courtiers, joined in the purchase of a Pink of
one hundred and twenty tons, to accompany her, which they likewise
manned and victualled, and furnished with merchandizes, such as were
thought marketable on the coasts of Tartary or Japan; the countries they
most probably would first fall in with after their passage through the
North Sea.
These ships being in readiness, and commissions made out for their
Commanders, Captain Wood was appointed to direct the expedition, on
board the Speedwell, and Captain Flawes to bear him company on board the
Prosperous.
On the 28th of May 1676, they sailed from the Buoy of the Nore, with the
wind at south-west; and on the 4th of June cast anchor off Lerwick, in
Brassey Sound, where they continued six days, to take in water and
recruit their stores.
On Saturday the 10th they weighed anchor and continued their voyage; and
on the 15th they entered the Polar circle, where the sun at that season
of the year never sets. At noon the Speedwell broke her
main-top-sail-yard in the slings, the first disaster that had happened,
which, however, was easily repaired. The weather now began to grow
hazey, a circumstance that frequently happens in the Polar regions, and
darkens the air with the obscurity of night.
From this time till June 22, when they fell in with the ice in latitude
75 degrees 59 minutes north, nothing material occurred. On that day, at
noon, they observed a continent of ice stretching to an imperceptible
distance, in a direction from east-south-east and west-north-west. They
bore away along the ice till the 28th, when they found it join to the
land of Nova Zembla.
On the 29th they stood away to the south, to get clear of the ice; but
unfortunately found themselves embayed in it. At 11 at night the
Prosperous bore down upon the Speedwell, crying out, ice upon the
weather-bow, on which the Speedwell clapt the helm hard a weather, and
veered out the main-sail to ware the ship; but before she could be
brought too on the other tack, she struck on a ledge of rocks, and stuck
fast. They fired guns of distress, but were not heard, and the fog being
so thick, that land could not be discerned, though close to the stern of
their ship; no relief was now to be expected, but from Providence and
their own endeavours. In such a situation, no description can equal the
relation of the Captain himself, who, in the language of the times, has
given the following full and pathetic account.
“Here, says he, we lay beating upon the rock in a most frightful manner,
for the space of three or four hours, using all possible means to save
the ship, but in vain; for it blew so hard, that it was wholly out of
our power to carry out an anchor capable to do us any service. At length
we saw land close under our stern, to the great amazement of us all,
which before we could not see for the foggy weather; so I commanded the
men to get out the boats before our mast came by the board, which was
done. I sent the boatswain towards the shore in the pinnace, to see if
there was any possibility of landing, which I much feared, because the
sea ran so high. In half an hour he returned with this answer, that it
was impossible to land a man, the snow being in high cliffs, the shore
was inaccessible. This was bad tidings; so then it was high time to
think on the safety of our souls, and we went all together to prayers,
to beseech God to have mercy on us, for now nothing but individual ruin
appeared before our eyes. After prayers, the weather cleared up a
little, and looking over the stern, I saw a small beach directly with
the stern of the ship, where I thought there might be some chance of
getting on shore. I therefore sent off the pinnace a second time, with
some men in her to be first landed, but she durst not venture to attempt
the beach. I then ordered out the long-boat with twenty men to land, who
attempted it, and got safe on shore. They in the pinnace seeing that,
followed, and landed their men likewise, and both vessels returned to
the ship without any accident. The men on shore desired some fire-arms
and ammunition, for there were many bears in sight. I therefore ordered
two barrels of powder, some small arms, some provisions, with my own
papers and money, to be put on board the pinnace; but as she put off
from the ship’s side, a sea overset her, so that all was lost, with the
life of one man, and several others taken up for dead. The pinnace
likewise was dashed to pieces, to our great sorrow, as by that disaster,
one means of escaping from this dismal country, in case the Prosperous
deserted us was cut off. The long-boat being on board, and the sea
running high, the boatswain and some others would compel me and the
Lieutenant to leave the ship, saying it was impossible for her to live
long in that sea, and that they had rather be drowned than I; but
desiring me when I came on shore, if it were possible, to send the boat
again for them. Before we got half way to shore the ship overset, so
making all possible haste to land the men we had on board, I went off to
the ship again, to save those poor men who had been so kind to me
before. With great hazard I got to the quarter of the ship, and they
came down the ladder into the boat, only one man was left behind for
dead, who had before been cast away in the pinnace; so I returned to the
shore, though very wet and cold. We then hauled up the boat, and went up
the land about a flight shot, where our men were making a fire and a
tent with canvass and oars, which we had saved for that purpose, in
which we all lay that night wet and weary. The next morning the man we
left on board having recovered, got upon the mizzen-mast, and prayed to
be taken on shore, but it blew so hard, and the sea ran so high, that
tho’ he was a very pretty sailor, none would venture to bring him off.
The weather continuing blowing with extreme fogs, and with frost and
snow, and all the ill-compacted weather that could be imagined put
together, we built more tents to preserve ourselves; and the ship
breaking in pieces, came all on shore to the same place where we landed,
which served us for shelter and firing. Besides, there came to us some
hogsheads of flour, and brandy in good store, which was no little
comfort in our great extremity. We now lay between hope and despair,
praying for fair weather, that Captain Flawes might find us, which it
was impossible for him ever to do while the weather continued foggy; but
fearing at the same time that he might be cast away as well as we.
But supposing we never were to see him again, I was resolved to try the
utmost to save as many as I could in the long-boat. In order thereunto
we raised her two feet, and laid a deck upon her to keep the sea out as
much as possible; and with this boat, and thirty men, for she would
carry no more, I intended to row and sail to Russia, but the crew not
being satisfied who should be the men, began to be very unruly in their
mind and behaviour, every one having as much reason to save himself as
another, some holding consultation to save the boat, and all to run the
like fortune; but here brandy was our best friend, for it kept the men
always fox’d, so that in all their designs I could prevent them. Some
were in the mind to go by land, but that I knew was impossible to any
man; neither had we provisions nor ammunition to defend us from the wild
beasts; so the passage by land being impracticable, and no passage by
sea to be attempted till forty men were destroyed, I will leave it to
the consideration of any, whether we were not in a most deplorable
condition, without the interposition of divine providence.
The weather continued still very bad, with fogs, snow, rain, and frost,
till the 9th day of our being on shore, which was the 8th day of July,
when in the morning it cleared up, and to our great joy one of our
people cried out a sail, which proved Captain Flawes; so we set fire to
our town, that he might see where we were, which he presently
discovered, so came up, and sent his boat to us; but before I went off,
I wrote a brief relation of the intention of the voyage, with the
accident that had befallen us, and put it into a glass bottle, and left
it in the fortification I had there built; so by twelve o’clock we all
got safe on board, but left all on shore that we had saved from the
ship; for we much feared it would prove foggy again, and that we should
be driven once more on this miserable country; a country, for the most
part, covered perpetually with snow, and what is bare being like bogs,
on whose surface grows a kind of moss, bearing a blue and yellow flour,
the whole product of the earth in this desolate region. Under the
surface, about two feet deep, we came to a firm body of ice, a thing
never heard of before; and against the ice-cliffs, which are as high as
either of the forelands in Kent, the sea has washed underneath, and the
arch overhanging, most fearful to behold, supports mountains of snow,
which, I believe, hath lain there ever since the creation.”
Thus far in Captain Wood’s own words. He adds, that by the tides setting
directly in upon the shore, it may be affirmed with certainty, that
there is no passage to the northward. One thing remarkable in his
relation, and which seems to contradict the report of former navigators,
is, that the sea is there salter than he had yet tasted it elsewhere,
and the clearest in the world, for that he could see the shells at the
bottom, though the sea was four hundred and eighty feet deep.
Being all embarked on board the Prosperous, on the 9th of July they
changed their course, and steered for England; and, on the 23d of
August, they arrived safe in the Thames, without any remarkable accident
intervening.
After the miscarriage of this voyage, on which the highest expectations
had been formed, the most experienced navigators in England seemed to
agree, that a passage by the north, or north-east, had no existence.
They were the more confirmed in this error, for an error it is, by the
reasons assigned by Capt. Wood, for changing his opinion on this matter;
for, before he went upon the discovery, he was fully persuaded himself,
and likewise persuaded many others, that nothing was more certain. When,
however, he first saw the ice, he imagined it was only that which joined
to Greenland, and that no solid body of ice extended farther from land
than twenty leagues; in this persuasion he altered his course, and
coasted along in the direction in which the ice lay, expecting, at every
cape or head-land of ice, after running a certain distance, to find an
opening into the Polar ocean; but after running two or three glasses to
the northward in one bay, he found himself entangled in another; and
thus it continued till his ship was wrecked. By this experiment, he
found the opinion of Barents confuted, namely, “that by stearing the
middle course between Spitsbergen and Nova Zembla, an open sea might be
attained, in which a ship might safely sail as far as the pole.” From
his own experience, he therefore pronounced, that all the Dutch
relations were forgeries which asserted, that any man had ever been
under the pole; verily believing, that if there be no land to the
northward of 80 degrees, that the sea is there frozen, and always
continues so; and grounding his opinion upon this remark, that if the
body of ice which he saw were to be conveyed ten degrees more to the
southward, many centuries of years would elapse before it would be
melted.
To this positive assertion, however, may be opposed, the testimony of
many credible persons, some of whom have themselves sailed beyond the
80th degree of north latitude, and others, upon evidence, whose veracity
there is no reasonable cause to bring in question.
Among the latter, the testimony of Mr. Joseph Moxon, member of the Royal
Society of London, must have considerable weight. In a paper which this
gentleman caused to be printed in the Philosophical Transactions, is
this remarkable relation.
“Being about twenty years ago in Amsterdam, I went into a public house
to drink a cup of beer for my thirst; and sitting by the public fire,
among several people, there happened a seaman to come in, who seeing a
friend of his there, who he knew went the Greenland voyage, wondered to
see him, because it was not yet time for the Greenland fleet to come
home, and asked him, what accident had brought him home so soon? His
friend (who was the steersman) answered, that their ships went not out
to fish, but only to take in the lading of the fleet, to bring it to an
early market. But, said he, before the fleet had caught fish enough to
lade us, we, by order of the Greenland Company, sailed unto the north
pole, and came back again. Whereupon, says Moxon, I entered into
discourse with him, and seemed to question the truth of what he said;
but he did assure me it was true, and that the ship was then in
Amsterdam, and many of the seamen belonging to her ready to justify the
truth of it; and told me, moreover, that they had sailed two degrees
beyond the pole. I asked him, if they found no land or islands about the
pole? He answered, no; there was a free and open sea. I asked him, if
they did not meet with a great deal of ice? He told me, no; they saw no
ice about the pole. I asked him, what weather they had there? He told
me, fine warm weather, such as was at Amsterdam in the summer-time, and
as hot. I should have asked him more questions, but that he was engaged
in discourse with his friend, and I could not, in modesty, interrupt
them longer. But I believe the steersman spoke truth; for he seemed a
plain, honest, and unaffectatious person, and one who could have no
design upon me.”
To authenticate this relation it has been observed, that under the
poles, the sun in June being 23 degrees high, and having little or no
depression towards the horizon, always, as it were, swimming about in
the same elevation, might invigorate that part of the hemisphere with
more heat than he does our climate; when he is, in the winter, no more
than 15 degrees at the highest, and but eight hours above the horizon;
in which space the earth has time to cool, and to lose, in the night,
the influences of heat which it receives in the day.
Another report upon like evidence was made to King Charles the Second,
by Capt. Goulden, who being a Greenland whaler himself, spoke with two
Hollanders in the North Seas, that had sailed within one degree of the
pole, where they met with no ice, but a hollow grown sea, like that in
the Bay of Biscay.
A still more credible testimony is, that about the year 1670,
application being made to the States General for a charter to
incorporate a company of merchants to trade to Japan and China, by a new
passage to the north east; the then East India Company opposed it, and
that so effectually, that their High Mightinesses refused to grant what
the merchants requested.
At that time it was talked of in Holland, as a matter of no difficulty
to sail to Japan by the way of Greenland; and it was publickly asserted
and believed, that several Dutch ships had actually done it. The
merchants being required to verify this fact, desired that the journals
of the Greenland squadron of 1655 might be produced; in seven of which
there was notice taken of a ship which that year had sailed as high as
the latitude of 89; and three journals of that ship being produced, they
all agreed, as to one observation taken by the master, August 1, 1655,
in 88 degrees 56 minutes north.
But a proof incontestible, is the testimony of Captain Hudson, who
sailed in 1607 to the latitude of 81 degrees 30 minutes north, where he
arrived on the 16th of July, the weather being then pretty warm.
Add to all these, that the Dutch, who were employed in 1670, in
endeavouring to find a north-east passage, advanced within a very few
degrees of that open sea, which is now commonly navigated by the
Russians, and which would infallibly have brought them to the coasts of
China and Japan, had they persevered in the course they were pursuing.
It does not appear, however, from any authentic accounts that we can
collect, that any voyage, professedly for the discovery of a north-east
passage, has been undertaken by either public or private adventurers in
England, since that of Capt. Wood in the year 1670, till the present
year: and it is more than probable, that if the Russian discoveries on
the north of Asia had never taken place, the thoughts of finding a
practicable passage from Europe in that direction, would have lain
dormant for ever.
But the vast and enterprizing genius of Peter the Great, in forcing his
subjects out of that obscurity in which they had long been involved, has
opened to the maritime powers new sources of commerce, and furnished
fresh motives for new enterprizes. From a people unacquainted with a
vessel bigger than a bark, and who knew no navigation but that of their
own rivers, that wonderful Prince not only taught them the use of ships,
but instructed them in the true principles of building and equipping
them. Nay, he did more; for after making himself known and admired
throughout Europe, he conceived the design of opening a communication
with the remotest parts of the globe, and discovering to the world new
countries which no European nation had ever yet explored.
With this design, he planned one of the boldest enterprizes that ever
entered into the heart of man; and though he did not survive to see it
executed, the glory of the atchievement is wholly his.
The country of Kamschatka was as much unknown to his predecessors, as it
was to the rest of the civilized nations of the earth; yet he formed the
design of making that savage country the centre of the most glorious
atchievements.
It was in the last year of this great Monarch’s life, that he
commissioned Capt. Behring to traverse the wild, and then almost
desolate, country of Siberia, and to continue his route to Kamtschatka,
where he was to build one or more vessels, in order to discover whether
the country towards the north, of which at that time they had no
distinct knowledge, was a part of America, or not; and if it was, his
instructions authorized him to endeavour, by every possible means, to
seek and cultivate the acquaintance of some European people, and to
learn from them the state of the country at which he should arrive. If
he failed in this, he was to make such discoveries as circumstances
should present, and commit to writing the result of his observations for
the use of his Imperial master.
To enter minutely into the particulars of Capt. Behring’s journey and
voyage, would carry us beyond the limits prescribed for this
Introduction: let it suffice to say, that after surmounting incredible
difficulties, and suffering hardships which none but a Russian could
have survived, he executed his commission successfully, and returned to
Petersburg in safety, after an absence of five years, in which time,
besides his voyage by sea, he had travelled, in going and returning,
eighteen thousand miles by land.
It is from the second enterprizes of this astonishing man, and from the
subsequent voyages of the Russians, that we are able to ascertain the
existence of a north-east passage; and it is from thence, and from the
late voyage of Capt. Phipps, that, we think, we may fairly infer the
practicability of it.
It was some time about the year 1740, that Capt. Behring embarked on his
second voyage from Kamtschatka, of which all that we know is, that he
sailed southward to the isles of Japan, and from thence eastward about
80 leagues. At that distance from Japan he discovered land, which he
coasted north-west, still approaching to the north-east cape of Asia,
which he doubled, and named Cape Shelvghenski, not daring to land till
he arrived at the mouth of a great river, where, sending his boats with
most of his crew on shore, they never more returned, being either killed
or detained by the inhabitants, which made his discovery incompleat; for
not having men sufficient left to navigate the ship, she went on shore
on an uninhabited island, where the Captain unfortunately died.
From this voyage, however, we learn that the sea, from the north-east
cape of Kamtschatka, is open to the isles of Japan, and from a
subsequent account of Russian voyages, published in the Philosophical
Transactions, from a paper communicated by the celebrated Euler, it
appears, that they passed along in small vessels, coasting between Nova
Zembla and the continent, at divers times in the middle of summer, when
those seas were open. The first expedition was from the river Oby,
latitude 66 degrees north, longitude 65 degrees east from London, and at
the approach of winter, the vessels sheltered themselves by going up the
Janiska, the mouth of which is marked in our maps in latitude 70 degrees
north, and in longitude 82 degrees east; from whence the next summer
they proceeded to the mouth of the Lena in latitude 72 degrees north,
and in longitude 115 degrees, into which they again retired for the
winter season. The third expedition was from the month of this river, to
the farthest north cape of Asia, in 72 degrees of north latitude, and in
172 degrees of east longitude from London. Thus the Russians having
passed between the continent and Nova Zembla, and sailed as far as the
easternmost north cape, and the English and Dutch having repeatedly
sailed through the straits that divide Nova Zembla from the continent,
nothing can be a plainer demonstration of the reality of a north-east
passage, than the sum of the voyages here enumerated, when added
together. The English and Dutch sail to Wygatz, or the strait of Nova
Zembla; the Russians sail from Wygatz to the north cape of Asia; and
Behring from the north cape to Japan. This is an incontrovertible
demonstration; yet it is obvious, that this course can never be
practicable to ships employed in trade. The Russians, by taking the
advantage of an open sea and mild weather, in three years time
accomplished but part of a voyage, which, by the Cape of Good Hope, may
be made in less than one. Who therefore would run the hazard of so
desperate a passage, for the sake of reaping imaginary advantages by an
intercourse with savages, who, for aught we know, have nothing to
exchange for European commodities, but the skins of bears, or the bones
of monsters.
But tho’ the passage to the northern countries of the east was known to
be impracticable to European navigators in this direction, it was worthy
the greatness of a maritime people, to endeavour to determine the
possibility of attaining the same end by another course.
The miscarriage and death of Barentz, and the shipwreck of Capt. Wood,
had left the question undetermined, whether the regions adjoining to the
pole are land or water, frozen or open sea. The advantages from this
discovery, besides the glory resulting from it, had the decision
terminated in favour of navigation, would have been immensely great. To
have opened a new channel of commerce at a time when our trade is
languishing, would have revived the drooping hopes of our manufacturers,
and retained at home the numerous emigrants, who, for want of employment
in their own country, are seeking new habitations, and new means of
living in remote settlements, of the certainty of which they have no
experience.
It must be acknowledged to the lasting honour of the noble Lord who
presides at the head of the admiralty board, and who patronized the
undertaking, that the means to render it successful, was in every
respect proportioned to the importance of the discovery.
The vessels that were made choice of were the properest that could be
devised. Bomb ketches are in the first instance stoutly built, and not
being over large, are best adapted for navigating seas that are known to
abound with shoals and covered rocks: these vessels, besides their
natural strength, were sheathed with plank of seasoned oak three inches
thick, to fortify them against the shocks and pressure of the ice, that,
in their progress, they must infallibly encounter. They were, besides,
furnished with a double set of ice poles, anchors, cables, sails and
rigging, to provide against the terrible effects of the severe and
tempestuous weather, that frequently happens in high latitudes, even in
the middle of the most temperate seasons.
Nor was his Lordship less careful to provide for the comfortable
subsistance of the men, than for the preservation of their lives, by his
wise directions in equipping their ships. His first care was, to issue
orders for killing and curing a sufficient quantity of beef and pork in
the best manner possible, that their provisions might be good and fresh;
and his next, to cause one hundred buts of porter to be brewed with the
best malt and hops, that they might have proper drink to fortify them
against the rigour of the climate they were about to pass. Their pease,
oatmeal, rice and molossus, were all provided with equal care, and when
all things were in readiness, the beer was stowed in the holds, and the
vacancies filled up with coals, which served as ballast, that firing
might not be wanting to warm and dry them when cold, or wet with labour,
or with watching. Add to this, that a double quantity of spirits were
put on board, with a large proportion of wine, vinegar, mustard, &c. &c.
and what, we believe, was never before thought of in the fitting out of
any King’s ships, a considerable quantity of tea and sugar for the sick,
in case any should be seized with that dreadful disorder, which rendered
ship provisions loathsome to Capt. James’s men, who were constrained to
winter in Charlton Island in 1632. These men fell sick and had sore
mouths, and could neither eat beef, pork, fish, nor potage; the Surgeon
was every morning and evening obliged to pick their teeth, and cut away
the pieces of rotten flesh from their gums, yet they could eat nothing
but bread pounded in a mortar, and fried in oil, on which they subsisted
for several months. In case of accidents of this kind, and that tea
should fail to answer the purposes of nourishment, a quantity of
portable soup was likewise provided. And to compleat the whole, a stock
of warm cloathing was laid in, consisting of six fearnought jackets for
each man, two milled caps, two pair of fearnought trowsers, four pair of
milled stockings, and an excellent pair of boots, with a dozen pair of
milled mitts, two cotton shirts, and two handkerchiefs.
Thus equipped and provided, the command of the Race Horse was given to
the Hon. Constantine Phipps, as Commodore, and that of the Carcarse to
Capt. Skiffington Lutwych; the first mounting eight six pounders and
fourteen swivels, burthen three hundred and fifty tons; the latter four
six pounders and fourteen swivels, burthen three hundred tons.
Thus being premised, let us now proceed to the Journal of the Voyage.
JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE
TO DISCOVER THE
NORTH EAST PASSAGE;
UNDER THE COMMAND OF
THE HON. COMMODORE PHIPPS,
AND
CAPT. SKIFFINGTON LUTWYCH,
IN HIS
MAJESTY’S SHIPS RACE HORSE AND CARCASE BOMBS.
All things being now in readiness, the officers on board, and the men
paid their bounty-money of three pounds per man, according to his
Majesty’s royal proclamation, for the encouragement of those who should
voluntarily enter to undertake the voyage. On the 3d of June 1773, the
Commodore made the signal to weigh; but previous to their departure, the
Carcase having been judged too deep to navigate those heavy seas through
which she was to pass, the Captain obtained leave from the board of
Admiralty to re-land ten of her compliment of men, and to put ashore six
of the eight six-pounders with which she was equipped, with a quantity
of provisions, proportioned to the number of men that it had been
thought proper to discharge.
On Friday the 4th being off Sheerness, the wind west by north, and a
fresh breeze, they took their departure, and continued their voyage
without any material occurrence happening till Tuesday the 15th, when
the Commodore made the signal to lie to. They were then off Brassey
Island, and many fishing-boats from Shetland being in sight, the men
were invited on board, and some fish purchased of them at a cheap rate.
On the 17th they took a new departure from Shetland, but the day
following the fog thickened so much, that it almost approached to total
darkness. During the continuance of the fog, the Commodore kept firing
guns and beating drums, to prevent the Carcase from losing company. As
it was impossible that one could see the other at a ship’s length, it
was found the more necessary to repeat and return the firing, lest they
should run foul of each other before they could be apprized of their
danger. About five in the morning the mist cleared up, and about nine
the Commodore being in sight, made the signal to the Carcase to steer
north-east. They were then in latitude 60 degrees 52 minutes north by
observation; the north end of Shetland Island bearing north by west one
half west, seven or eight leagues.
On the 17th they observed a sail to the north-east, which the Commodore
brought to, and spoke with. The breeze fresh, the weather hazy, and the
wind variable, the Carcase carried away her main-top-mast studding sail
yard; which, however, was very soon supplied. Latitude this day by
observation 62 degrees 53 minutes north.
Friday the 18th, being in the latitude of 65 degrees 9 minutes north,
the cloathing allowed by the Government, of which notice has already
been taken in the Introduction, was delivered out, and officers as well
as men received their full proportion. This day the weather continued as
before.
Saturday the 19th the weather varied to every point of the compass, the
Commodore brought to, and spoke with the Carcase. Made sail about three
in the morning, and at nine a large swell. Tacked and stood to the
eastward. Latitude 66 degrees 1 minute north; longitude from London 33
minutes west.
Sunday the 20th they pursued their course to the eastward, with the wind
north-west, but variable; high breezes and clear air. They were now
within the Polar circle, and at midnight had an observation of the sun,
and found their latitude 66 degrees 52 minutes north. Sounded on board
the Commodore with a lead of one hundred weight, and a line of seven
hundred and eighty fathom, to which was fastened a thermometer of Lord
George Cavendish’s construction. They found no bottom, but the water was
eleven degrees colder at that depth than on the surface. The Carcase
sounded with four hundred and fifty fathoms only.
Monday 21, light breezes and cloudy weather. They observed a whale on
the north-east quarter, the first they had yet seen in the north seas.
The weather now began to set in severe; the nights cold and the days
cloudy. The Commodore observing a whaling snow with Hamborough colours
flying, fired a shot, and brought her to. She happened to be homeward
bound with seals, and Mr. Wyndham, a gentleman of fortune, who had
embarked on board the Commodore, with a view to prosecute the voyage,
finding nothing but foul weather and heavy seas, to gratify his
curiosity, and being withal unable to endure the sea sickness, took
passage on board the Hamburgher, in order to return home; and having
taken leave of his friends, by wishing them a happy voyage, the Snow’s
boat took him on board, about seven in the morning, and at eight the
Commodore and Carcase pursued their voyage.
Tuesday 22, the articles of war were read on board the Carcase. The
weather began to be piercing cold; they had reached the 70th degree of
north latitude, in a course nearly north, being only 14 minutes to the
eastward of London; and from their leaving Shetland to this day, they
had seen nothing remarkable; nor had any accident befallen either of the
ships worth relating, except that of now and then snapping a rope, or
breaking a yard; incidents easily repaired. This day it poured with
rain; the air was thick, and the rain froze as it fell. Saw a large ship
to the north-west, standing southward, but wanting no information that
she could give, they pursued their voyage without speaking to her.
[Illustration: SPITSBERGEN or NEW GREENLAND.]
Wednesday 23, the rain continued; the weather hazy; heard three guns
fire at a distance, but saw no ship or other object. The whales are here
in no great plenty, and few ships appear in the open sea in pursuit of
them. They generally at this season frequent the bays and creeks near
the shore, and only break away when they are pursued or wounded.
On Thursday the 24th, the Commodore changed his course to east
north-east; and on the 25th they were in latitude 74 degrees 7 minutes
north, and in 8 degrees 32 minutes east longitude from London. Served
out to the ship’s company plenty of mustard, pepper, vinegar, &c. The
weather extremely cold and variable. At eight in the evening thick fog;
at two in the morning fresh breezes; at eight clear weather; at eleven
squally; and at noon calm, with sleet and snow.
On Saturday the 26th, at midnight, they had an observation, and found
themselves in latitude 74 degrees 17 minutes north; fresh gales,
sometimes rain, sleet, and snow; at seven in the morning clear weather
and an open sea.
Sunday 27, light airs from the southward, and cloudy weather; much
warmer than the preceding day. It is remarkable, that the vicissitudes
of heat and cold are more frequent here than in the more southerly
latitudes. It often changes from temperate to extreme cold; and that
suddenly.
It should seem likewise, that the ice frequently changes its place in
this latitude; or that it is more solid near land than in the open sea;
for, on the 23d of June 1676, Capt. Wood, being more to the eastward,
fell in with ice right a-head, not more than a league distant. He
steered along it, thinking it had openings, but found them to be bays.
He sounded, and found ground at one hundred and fifty-eight fathom, soft
green oar. In some places he found pieces of ice driving off a mile from
the main body in strange shapes, resembling ships, trees, buildings,
beasts, fishes, and even men. The main body of ice being low and craggy,
he could see hills of a blue colour at a distance, and valleys that were
white as snow. In some places he observed drift wood among the ice. Some
of the ice he melted, and found it fresh and good. This navigator never
could advance farther to the north; but in seeking to penetrate the ice
was ship-wrecked, as has been already related in the Introduction. He
therefore judged the ice impenetrable, and that land or ice surrounded
the pole. Our navigators found also much wood in this latitude floating
about the ships, and saw great flocks of birds.
Monday 28, the weather altered; the wind west. Fresh breezes, with rain
and sleet. Latter part thick fog.
Tuesday 29, being in latitude 78 degrees north, and in longitude 6
degrees 29 minutes east from London, came in sight of land, when the
ships brought to, and the Captains held a consultation concerning their
future course. The appearance of the land lay from east south-east to
north-east; and this day they spoke with the Marquis of Rockingham,
Greenlandman, who, by their reckoning, were then in latitude 79 degrees
40 minutes north, though by that of the Commodore, their latitude was
only 78 degrees 3 minutes. This difference, it is probable, arises from
not making the proper allowance for refraction in this high latitude.
The Greenlandman presented each of the Commanders with a deer and a
half, which they found well-flavoured venison, though not over fat. He
likewise informed, that he had just come from the ice, and that the day
before, three whalers had been crushed to pieces by its closing upon
them suddenly.
Wednesday 30, pursued their course. Cloudy weather. Half past four in
the morning sounded, one hundred and twelve fathoms soft blue mud. At
this time Black Point, so called from its dark appearance, bore
north-east by east three quarters east, at the distance of seven or
eight leagues. At half past seven, in the morning, saw two sail in the
north-west quarter. At half past twelve tacked and stood to the east.
Sounded, and found ground at one hundred and fifteen fathom.
Thursday July 1, light breezes and clear weather at midnight: the sun as
bright as at noon day. Black Point east one half south, distant seven
leagues. At three in the morning made Charles’s Island, and at nine saw
a sail to the westward whaleing; they were then in latitude 78 degrees
18 minutes north, by observation. Sounded, and found the same depth as
before.
Friday 2, light airs and moderate weather. Lay to and took the altitude
of a mountain, which they named Mount Parnassus; found it from the level
of the sea to be three thousand nine hundred and sixty feet high,
covered with snow, and at a distance resembling an ancient building,
with something like a turret a-top. The foot of this mountain, with the
hills adjoining, have sometimes a very fiery appearance, and the ice and
snow on their sides resembling trees and shrubs, glissen with a
brilliancy that exceed the splendor of the brightest gems. When this
happens, a violent storm generally succeeds. Here they shot some sea
fowl, but of an oily taste.
Saturday 3, proved a perfect calm. They spoke with a Hollander, who
foretold, that a degree or two farther north was the utmost extent of
their progress this season. Having doubled Cape Cold, they anchored in
fifteen fathom water, about three miles from the land, and sent the
boats ashore for water, which they found in abundance, pouring down in
little streams from the rocks. At five in the afternoon, by the mean of
four azimuths, the variation was found to be 18 degrees 36 minutes west.
Sounded, and found only sixty-five fathoms, soft brown mud. Mount
Parnassus east-north-east three or four leagues.--Among other reasons
which Capt. Wood gave for wishing to be employed on the discovery of the
north-east passage, one was, that he might have an opportunity of
approaching the pole, in order to settle an hypothesis, which he had
long framed, whereby the inclination of the magnetical needle under the
horizon, in all latitudes and in all longitudes, with the variation of
the compass, might be exactly determined. This navigator imagined two
magnetical poles to exist; and that, by approaching the one, he should
be able to determine the action of the other. It does not appear, that
he ever explained his hypothesis; and there never has been but one man,
whose name was Williams, since his time, who pretended to know any thing
of the matter.
Saturday 4, light breezes and hazey weather. Sounded, and only twenty
fathoms deep; rocky ground. Hacluit’s Headland, or the northernmost
point of Spitsbergen, bearing north by east seven leagues. Many whalers
in sight. Latitude by observation 79 degrees 34 minutes north, longitude
from London 8 degrees 10 minutes east. Thermometer forty-seven.
Monday 5, at two in the afternoon sounded, and only fifteen fathom
water; rocky ground. Thick fog. The Race Horse fired guns as signals to
keep company, which were answered by the Carcase. A dreadful crackling
was heard at a distance, which proved the dashing and grinding of the
loose pieces of ice against each other, which is heard at many leagues
distance. Hacluit’s Headland south-east by south, distance six or seven
leagues.
Tuesday 6, proved very foggy, the breezes slight, and islands of ice
beginning to appear. At three in the afternoon the Commodore hauled up
from a large body of packed ice, and the fog thickening, both ships kept
firing volleys of small arms, to prevent their losing company. At half
past ten in the evening, the extremes of the ice stretching from
north-west to east-north-east, the Commodore bore away; and at half past
twelve lost sight of it. At half past one in the morning heard a violent
surf to the south-east. At two tacked and stood to the westward. At half
past five the fog gathering, they began firing volleys of small arms. At
six saw the ice stretching from east by south, to north by east; and at
seven was within sight of land. At ten Cloven Cliff stood
east-south-east, distant about five or six leagues.
Wednesday the 7th, the weather cloudy. They found themselves beset among
the loose ice, which increasing continually, gave them incredible
trouble. Observing that it thickened to the eastward, they hauled up,
and stood to the westward; but in tacking, they were in danger of
running foul. It was with difficulty they could keep any course, for the
driffs of ice came so thick, as to whirl the ships about, as if in a
whirl-pool.
Thursday 8, the weather still remaining cloudy, and the wind variable,
both ships still were entangled in the ice; and the Carcase being driven
to leeward, hoisted out her long-boat to tow up with the Commodore. But
the ice closing very fast, it was impossible for the boats to live.
Orders were then given to tack and stand to the southward; but the ships
not being able to make head against the accumulation of ice that
continually gathered round them, were under a necessity of applying to
their ice-anchors and poles, in order to warp through it. At half past
eight in the evening, the ice beginning to open, they again hoisted out
their boats, and with difficulty towed the ships round a cape of ice
projecting from the main body, and at last got clear. At ten the boats
were hoisted on board. In extricating themselves from this dangerous
situation, the Race Horse had her best bower-anchor snapt in the shank,
close to the stock, and the Carcase lost her starboard bumpkin and
head-rails.
It frequently happens, that ships beset among the ice in the manner
above related, perish by being dashed to pieces against the solid fields
of ice, or crushed by the broken pieces crowding upon one another, and
rising so fast about the ship, as to exceed the height of her sides, and
then there is no escaping. They were told by some experienced seamen,
that the ice rises out of the sea as high sometimes as mountains; and
that several of these mountains, by striking together and coalescing,
form these islands of ice that are frequently seen in the lower
latitudes, driving up and down the sea as the wind and tides direct
them.
The greatest danger to be apprehended, is, however, from the loose ice;
for the whalers often moor their ships to the solid fields of ice, that
at certain seasons seem to rest upon the earth, and appear fixed to it,
and there find the best fishing. In such situations it often happens,
that little or no loose ice is to be seen; yet presently upon a change
of wind, or the blowing of a storm, it shall pour in upon them so
suddenly, that they sometimes perish in it. It is not possible to
account for the astonishing quantity that will gather in this manner in
less than an hour’s time.
[Illustration: _A View of the Whale Fishery._]
Though it seems to be agreed, that many of the largest fields of ice are
frozen to the depth of the sea in which they are found, and that they
are bedded on the solid earth, yet it is equally certain, that they are
often rent asunder by the raging billows; and that in breaking, they
produce the most terrifying noise in nature; nay, it is asserted, that
the clashing of the pieces of loose ice against each other, on any
extraordinary agitation of the waves, is attended with a roaring so
loud, that a man who is near it can hardly hear the sound of his own
voice.
Friday the 9th, they hauled up to the westward, and lost sight one of
the other; but about nine next morning they came in sight, and joined
company. The weather being now piercing cold, the people had an
additional quantity of porter and brandy delivered to them; two quarts
of porter and a pint of brandy being now every man’s daily allowance.
Saturday July the 10th, the breeze fresh, and the weather cloudy. They
sailed between numberless pieces of ice, among which they saw several
whales, but none of the whalers in pursuit of them. The ice now becoming
solid and compact, they found it impracticable to continue their course.
And the discovery of a passage to the pole in that direction (upon
holding a consultation) appearing impracticable to every officer on
board of both ships, the Commodore, at seven in the evening, hauled
close to the wind; and the Carcase, as soon as she could extricate
herself, followed his example. The weather continuing foggy, with rain
and snow, the sailors were almost worn out with turning and winding; and
although they used the utmost precaution in working through the narrows,
yet they could not always avoid striking against the mountains that
every where surrounded them. During this night’s work, they steered a
hundred different courses, to follow the channels.
Sunday 11, having worked out of the ice, they sailed along the main
body, which appeared perfectly solid and compact, without any passage or
inlet. This immense mass of ice extended north-east, as far as they
could see from the mast-head; and, no doubt, might be a continuation of
that in which they were engaged a few days before. The sea was now
tolerably clear, for they met with no more fields, and only a few
detached islands. At half past one in the morning they saw the land from
south by west, to south-south-east. At three in the morning they tacked;
Cloven Cliff bearing south-south-east six miles. At seven tacked again.
At eight the Commodore bore away, and the Carcase stood after him.
Cloven Cliff south one half west, two or three leagues, latitude 79
degrees 56 minutes north.
Monday 12, at eight in the evening Cloven Cliff bearing west-south-west
four or five miles, they sounded in fifteen fathoms water, and found a
rocky bottom. Saw several English and Dutch Greenlanders at anchor in
the Norways: That being their rendezvous to the northward, they never
chuse to proceed farther. Here they found the current setting so fast to
eastward, that they were forced to come to an anchor to keep from
drifting on the ice; the swell from westward being so great, that had
that happened, it would of consequence have staved the ships. At five in
the morning a breeze from north-north-east springing up, they weighed,
and made sail. At eight Hacluit’s Headland west-south-west one half
west, six or seven leagues, at noon latitude 80 degrees 2 minutes north.
Tuesday 13, the weather being clear and calm, and a strong easterly
current setting in, at eight in the evening they came to with their
stream anchors and hausers in forty fathoms water but at nine a breeze
springing up from the eastward, they weighed, and next day came to an
anchor in Smearingburgh Harbour. Cloven Cliff east one half south one
mile. West point of Voogle land north-north-west one half west, distant
one mile and a half; soundings fifteen fathom sandy bottom.
Here they remained between five and six days to take in fresh water,
during which time our journalist was employed in surveying the country,
which to a stranger had a very awful and romantic appearance.
The country is stoney, and as far as can be seen full of mountains,
precipices and rocks. Between these are hills of ice, generated, as it
should seem, by the torrents that flow from the melting of the snow on
the sides of those towering elevations, which being once congealed, are
continually increased by the snow in winter, and the rain in summer,
which often freezes as soon as it falls. By looking on these hills, a
stranger may fancy a thousand different shapes of trees, castles,
churches, ruins, ships, whales, monsters, and all the various forms that
fill the universe. Of the ice-hills there are seven, that more
particularly attract the notice of a stranger. These are known by the
name of the seven iceburgs, and are thought to be the highest of the
kind in that country. When the air is clear, and the sun shines full
upon these mountains, the prospect is inconceivably brilliant. They
sometimes put on the bright glow of the evening rays of the setting sun,
when reflected upon glass, at his going down; sometimes they appear of a
bright blue, like sapphire, and sometimes like the variable colours of a
prism, exceeding in lustre the richest gems in the world, disposed in
shapes wonderful to behold, all glittering with a lustre that dazzles
the eye, and fills the air with astonishing brightness.
Smearingburgh harbour, where they landed, was first discovered by the
Dutch. Here they erected sheds and conveniences for boiling the oil from
the fat of the whales, instead of barrelling it up to be boiled at home.
Here also, allured by the hope of gain, they built a village, and
endeavoured to fix a colony: but the first settlers all perished in the
ensuing winter. The remains of the village may be traced to this day;
and their stoves, kettles, kardels, troughs, ovens, and other
implements, remained in the shape of solid ice long after the utensils
themselves were decayed. Our voyagers were told, that the Russians have
lately attempted the same thing, and that ten out of fifteen perished
last winter in this second attempt.
Where every object is new, it is not easy for a stranger to fix which
first to admire. The rocks are striking objects: before a storm they
exhibit a fiery appearance, and the sun looks pale upon them, the snow
giving the air a bright reflection. Their summits are almost always
involved in clouds, so that it is but just possible to see the tops of
them. Some of these rocks are but one stone from bottom to top,
appearing like an old decayed ruin. Others consist of huge masses,
veined differently, like marble, with red, white, and yellow, and
probably, were they to be sawed and polished, would equal, if not excel,
the finest Egyptian marble we now so much admire. Perhaps the distance
and danger of carrying large blocks of stones, may be the reason that no
trials have been made to manufacture them. On the southerly and westerly
sides of these rocks grow all the plants, herbs, and mosses peculiar to
this country; on the northerly and easterly sides the wind strikes so
cold when it blows from these quarters, that it perishes every kind of
vegetable. These plants grow to perfection in a very short time. Till
the middle of May the whole country is locked up in ice; about the
beginning of July the plants are in flower, and about the latter end of
the same month, or beginning of August, they have perfected their seed.
The earth owes its fertility, in a great measure, to the dung of birds,
who build and breed their young here in the summer, and in the winter
repair to more favourable climates.
The plants that are most common in Spitsbergen are scurvy-grass and
crows-foot; there are besides small house-leak, and a plant with
aloe-leaves; an herb like stone-crop; some small snake-weed; mouse-ear;
wood-strawbery; periwinkle; and a herb peculiar to the country which
they call the rock-plant. The leaves of this plant are in shape like a
man’s tongue, above six feet long, of a dull yellow colour. The stalk is
round and smooth, and of the same colour with the leaf; it rises
tapering, and smells like muscles. It is an aquatic, and rises in height
in proportion to the depth of water in which it is found. There are
other plants and herbs, but these are the chief. Of flowers, the white
poppy seems the principal.
The rocks and precipices are full of fissures and clefts, which afford
convenient harbour for birds to lay their eggs, and breed their young in
safety. Most of these birds are water-fowl, and seek their food in the
sea. Some, indeed, are birds of prey; and pursue and kill others for
their own sustenance, but these are rare. The water-fowl eat strong and
fishy, and their fat is not to be endured. They are so numerous about
the rocks, as sometimes to darken the air when they rise in flocks; and
they scream so horribly, that the rocks ring with their noise.
There are a few small birds like our snipes, and a kind of snow-bird,
but different from that found about Hudson’s bay. The gentlemen shot
some of the water-fowl, but they were strong and ill-tasted.
The ice-bird is a very beautiful little bird, but very rare. He is in
size and shape like a turtle-dove, but his plumage, when the sun shines
upon him, is of a bright yellow, like the golden ring in the peacock’s
tail, and almost dazzles the eye to look upon it.
The other inhabitants of this forlorn country are white bears, deer, and
foxes. How these creatures can subsist in the winter, when the whole
earth is covered with snow, and the sea locked up in ice, is hardly to
be conceived. It has been said, indeed, that when the ocean is all
frozen over, and no sustenance to be procured in this country, they
travel southerly to the warmer climates, where food proper for them
abounds in the immense forests of the northern continent. But whoever
considers the vast distance between Spitsbergen and the nearest parts of
the northern continent, will be as much at a loss to account for the
subsistence of these creatures in their journey, as in the desolate
region where they undoubtedly remain. The bear is by far the best
accommodated to the climate of which he is an inhabitant. He is equally
at home on land and water, and hunts diligently for his prey in both. In
summer he finds plenty of food from the refuse of the whales, sea-horses
and seals, which is thrown into the sea by the whalers, and cover the
shores during the time of whaling; and they have besides a wonderful
sagacity in smelling out the carcases of the dead, let them be ever so
deeply buried in the earth, or covered with stones. The dead therefore
that annually are buried here may contribute, in some degree, to the
subsistence of a few of these creatures in winter; but the question will
still recur, how the race of them subsisted before the whale-fishery had
existence, and before men found the way to this inhospitable shore.
Disquisitions of this kind, as they are beyond the reach of human
comprehension, serve only to raise our admiration of that omnipotent
Being to whom nothing is impossible.
These creatures, as they differ in nothing but their colour and size
from those commonly shewn in England, need no description.
The foxes differ little in shape from those we are acquainted with, but
in colour there is no similitude. Their heads are black, and their
bodies white. As they are beasts of prey, if they do not provide in
summer for the long recess of winter, it were, one would think, almost
impossible for them to survive; yet they are seen in plenty, though, by
their subtlety and swiftness, they are not easy to be catched.
The Dutch seamen report, that when they are hungry they will feign
themselves dead, and when the ravenous birds come to feed upon them,
they rise and make them their prey.
But the most wonderful thing of all is, how the deer can survive an
eight months famine. Like ours they feed upon nothing that can be
perceived, but the vegetables which the earth spontaneously produces;
and yet for eight months in the year, the earth produces neither plant,
herb, shrub, or blade of any kind of grass whatever. They are, besides,
but thinly cloathed for so severe a climate, and what seems still worse,
there is not a bush to be seen to shelter them, within the distance that
any man has yet discovered. The means of their subsistence must
therefore remain among the secrets of nature, never to be disclosed, as
no human being can ever live here, so as to be able to trace these
creatures to their winter’s residence.
Amphibious creatures abound the most about the sounds and bays of
Spitsbergen, and they seem best adapted to endure the climate. These are
the seals, or sea dogs, and morses, or sea horses; of which the whalers
avail themselves, when disappointed in compleating their lading with the
fat of whales.
The seal is sufficiently known; but the sea-horse, as it is a creature
peculiar to high latitudes, is therefore more rare. It is not easy to
say how he came by his name; for there is no more likeness between a
sea-horse and a land-horse, than there is between a whale and an
elephant. The sea-horse is not unlike the seal in shape. He has a large
round head, larger than that of a bull, but shaped more like that of a
pug-dog without ears, than any other animal we are acquainted with. He
tapers all the way down to the tail, like the fish we call a lump, and
his size is equal to that of the largest sized ox. His tusks close over
his under jaw, like those of a very old boar, and are in length from one
foot to two or more, in proportion to the size and age of the animal
that breeds them. His skin is thicker than that of a bull, and covered
with short mouse-coloured hair, which is sleeker and thicker, just as he
happens to be in or out of season when he is caught. His paws, before
and behind, are like those of a mole, and serve him for oars when he
swims, and for legs to crawl when he goes upon the ice, or on shore. He
is a fierce animal, but being unweildy when on land, or on the ice, is
easily overcome.
These animals are always found in herds, sometimes of many hundreds
together, and if one is attacked, the rest make a common cause, and
stand by one another till the last gasp. If they are attacked in the
water, they will fight desperately, and will even attempt the boats of
their pursuers, if any of them are wounded, and not mortally. Some of
them have been known to make holes in the bottom of the boat with their
tusks, in defence of their young. Their eyes are large, and they have
two holes in the upper part of the neck, out of which they eject the
water, in like manner as it is ejected by whales.
Though the sea about Spitsbergen is full of fish, yet they rather appear
to be designed by Providence for the sustenance of one another, than for
the food of man. The mackarel, of which there are no great plenty, seem
not only to be the most wholesome, and the most palatable, but also the
most beautiful. They seem to be a different species to those caught upon
our coasts. The upper part of the back is of a vivid blue; the other
part as low as the belly of a gem-like green on an azure ground.
Underneath the belly the colour is a transparent white, and the fins
shine like polished silver. All the colours glow when alive in the sea
with such a richness, that fancy can hardly form to itself any thing in
nature more beautiful. Almost all the other fish on this coast are of an
oily nature, and of a very indifferent flavour.
The saw, or sword fish, is remarkable not only for the oddity of his
shape, but also for his enmity to the whale. This fish takes his name
from a broad flat bone, in length from two to four feet, which projects
from his nose, and tapers to a point. On each side, it has teeth like a
comb, at the distance of a finger’s breadth asunder. He is also
furnished with a double row of fins, and is of astonishing strength in
the water. His length from ten to twenty feet. He seems to be formed for
war, and war is his profession. The conflict betwixt him and the whale
is dreadful, yet he never gives over till his sword is broken, or he
comes off victorious.
The whale is a harmless fish, and is never known to fight but in his own
defence. Yet when he is exasperated, he rages dreadfully. Though from
his magnitude, he may be called the sovereign of the seas; yet, like
other sovereigns, he is liable to be vexed and hurt by the meanest
reptiles. The whale’s louse is a most tormenting little animal. Its
scales are as hard as those of our prawns; its head is like the louse’s
head, with four horns, two that serve as feelers, the other two are
hard, and curved, and serve as clenchers to fix him to the whale. On his
chest, underneath, he has two carvers, like scythes, with which he
collects his food, and behind these are four feet, that serve him for
oars. He has, moreover, six other clenchers behind, with which he can
rivet himself so closely to his prey, that he can no otherwise be
disengaged, but by cutting out the whole piece to which he is joined. He
is jointed on the back like the tail of a lobster, and his tail covers
him like a shield when he is feeding. He fixes himself on the tenderest
parts of the whale’s body, between his fins, on his sheath, and on his
lips, and eats pieces out of his flesh, as if eaten by vultures.
They found no springs of fresh-water in Spitsbergen; but in the valleys,
between the mountains, are many little rills caused by the rain and
melting of the snow in summer; and from these rills the ships are
supplied. Some are of opinion, that this water is unwholesome, but they
are more nice than wise. The whaling people have drank of it for ages,
and have found no ill effects from the use of it. Ice taken up in the
middle of these seas and thawed, yields also good fresh water.
On board the Race Horse, Dr. Irvine, the gentleman who received the
premium by a grant of parliament, for his discovery of an easy process
for making salt-water fresh at sea, tried many experiments at
Spitsbergen, and in the course of the voyage; the result of which will
appear at a proper time. That gentleman had formed a project for
preserving flesh meat fresh and sweet in long voyages, but it did not
answer in this.
In calm weather they remarked, that the sea about the islands appeared
uncommonly still and smooth; that it was not suddenly moved at the first
approach of blowing weather; but that when the storm continued, the
waves swelled gradually, and rose to an incredible height.--These
swelling waves successively follow one another, and roll along before
the wind, foaming and raging in a frightful manner, yet they are thought
less dangerous than those that break short, and are less mountainous.
They observed likewise, that the ice that rested on the ground was not
stationary, but that it changed place; and they learnt also, that in
some seasons there was no ice, where this season they were in danger of
being embayed. There does not, however, from thence appear the least
reason to conclude, that any practicable passage to the Indian ocean can
ever be found in this direction; for were it certain that the seas were
always open under the pole, yet great bulwarks of ice evidently surround
it, sometimes at a less, and sometimes at a greater distance. Moreover,
were it possible that chance should direct some fortunate adventurer to
an opening at one time, it would be more than a million to one, if the
same opening were passable to the next who should attempt it.
There are many harbours about Spitsbergen, besides that of Smearingburg,
where ships employed in the whale fishery take shelter in stormy
weather; and there are some islands, such as Charles’s Island, the
Clifted Rock, Red-Hill, Hacluit’s Headland, &c. that serve as landmarks,
by which seamen direct their course. These islands are full of the nests
of birds; but their eggs are as nauseous as the flesh of the fowls that
lay them. The sailors sometimes eat them, but they are filthy food. Even
the geese and ducks on the neighbouring islands eat fishy and strong.
The air about Spitsbergen is never free from icicles. If you look
through the sun-beams transversely as you sit in the shade, or where you
see the rays confined in a body, instead of dark motes, as are seen
here, you see myriads of shining particles that sparkle like diamonds;
and when the sun shines hot, as it sometimes does, so as to melt the tar
in the seams of ships when they lie sheltered from the wind, these
shining atoms seem to melt away, and descend like dew.
It is seldom that the air continues clear for many days together in this
climate; when that happens, the whalers are generally successful. There
is no difference between night and day in the appearance of the
atmosphere about Spitsbergen, one being as light as the other, only when
the sun is to the northward, you may look at him with the naked eye, as
at the moon, without dazzling. The fogs here come on so suddenly, that
from bright sun-shine, you are presently involved in such obscurity,
that you can hardly see from one end of the ship to the other.
While our journalist was busy in making his observations, all belonging
to the ships were differently engaged in one employment or other; some
in taking in water, some in fishing, some in hunting, some in handing
the sails, and spreading them out to dry, some in scrubbing the ship,
and some in viewing the country. The Commanders and officers, with Mr.
Lyon, Mr. Robinson, &c. busied themselves in making observations, being
furnished with an apparatus, that is said to have cost at least one
thousand five hundred pounds. From such a set of instruments, in the
hands of the ablest observers, the nation can boast, some very
considerable discoveries in the phenomena of the polar regions may be
expected. They landed their instruments in a small island, in Vogle
Sound, and had several opportunities during their stay of using them to
advantage. Having erected two tents, the Captains from the fishery
frequently visited the observers, and expressed their admiration not
only at the perfection of the instruments, but likewise at the dexterity
with which they were accommodated.
The ice began to set in a-pace, yet the weather was hot. The thermometer
from fifty-six in the cabin rose to ninety in the open air. It was still
ten degrees higher on the top of a mountain to which it was carried. The
island on which the experiments were made, they called Marble Island,
from the rock by which it is formed. Having watered, and finished their
observations, the ships prepared to depart.
Monday July the 19th, the Commodore made the signal to weigh; at two in
the afternoon the ships were under sail, and as soon as they had made
their offing, stood to the eastward. At three they tacked and steered
northward; and before four were again entangled among the loose ice,
through which they sailed, directing their course along the main body,
which lay from north-west to south-south-east.
Tuesday the 20th, they continued their course along the ice, but could
discover no opening, though they searched every creek, and left no bay
or turning unexamined. This day they observed what the sailors call a
mock-sun, a phænomenon well enough known in this climate. Hacluit’s
Headland bore south-west one half south forty-six leagues; the weather
cloudy, with rain; excessive cold. Thermometer 37 degrees 46 minutes.
Wednesday the 21st, the severity of the weather increasing, an
additional quantity of brandy was served out to the people, and every
comfortable refreshment afforded them, that they themselves could wish
or require. The course of the ice lay this day north-east.
Thursday 22, nothing remarkable.
Friday the 23d, they saw land from east by south, to south-east by
south. At four in the morning, Hacluit’s Headland bore south-east ten
leagues; the wind variable, and the weather cold, with sleet and snow.
Thermometer 40 degrees.
Sunday 25, they had gentle breezes, with cloudy weather, and were
engaged among some pieces of ice, separated from the main body, which
kept them continually tacking and luffing. At length they entered among
mountains and islands of ice, which came upon them so fast, that it was
with the utmost difficulty they could proceed; the Carcase having
several times struck against them with such violence, as to raise her
head four feet out of the water. They now imagined, from the solidity
and extent of these islands, that the late strong gales had caused a
separation from the main body, the Commodore therefore changed his
course with a strong gale to the eastward; in the morning the weather
became moderate.
Monday 26, at seven in the morning, they came in sight of Red-hill, a
small mount which commands an open plain, known by the name of
Deers-field, by reason of its fertile appearance, it being the only spot
on which they saw no drifts of snow. To the eastward lies Muffin’s
Island. Here they sounded, and found forty-five fathom water; rocky
ground. Capt. Lutwich sent out the long-boat, with orders to sound along
the shore, and to examine the soil. This island is about a mile long,
very low, and looks at a distance like a black speck. Though the soil is
mostly sand and loose stones, and hardly so much as a green weed upon
it, yet it is remarkable for the number of birds that resort to it in
summer to lay their eggs, and breed their young; and these not of one
kind only, but of many different sorts, as geese, ducks, burgomasters,
ice-birds, malamucks, kirmews, rotgers, and almost every other species
of birds peculiar to the climate; insomuch, that the eggs were so
numerous, and lay so thick upon the ground, that the men who landed
found it difficult to walk without filling their shoes.
While the crew of the boat, ten in number, with their valiant officer at
their head, were examining the island, after having sounded the shores,
they observed two white bears making towards them, one upon the ice, the
other in the water. Major Buz, for that was their officer’s travelling
title, like Falstaff, was always the boldest man in company over a cup
of sack, and minded killing a bear no more than killing a gnat; but
seeing the bears approach very fast, especially that which came in the
water, he ordered his men to fire while yet the enemy was at a distance,
as he did not think it prudent to hazard the lives of his little company
in close fight. All of them pointed their muskets, and some of the party
obeyed orders; but the greater part judging it safer to depend upon a
reserved fire, when they had seemingly discharged their pieces,
pretended to retreat. The Major, a full fathom in the belly, endeavoured
to waddle after his companions; but being soon out of breath, and seeing
the bear that came in the water had just reached the shore, thought of
nothing now but falling the first sacrifice. His hair already stood an
end; and looking behind him, he saw the bear at no great distance, with
his nose in the air snuffing the scent. He had all the reason in the
world to believe it was him that he scented, and he had scarce breath
enough left to call to his men to halt. In this critical situation he
unfortunately dropt his gun, and in stooping to recover it stumbled
against a goose-nest, fell squash upon his belly into it, and had very
nigh smothered the dam upon her eggs. The old saying is, misfortunes
seldom come alone. Before he could well rise, the enraged gander came
flying to the assistance of his half-smothered consort, and making a
dart at the eye of the assailant, very narrowly missed his mark, but
discharged his fury plump upon his nose. The danger now being pressing,
and the battle serious, the bear near, and the gander ready for a second
attack, the men, who had not fled far, thought it high time to return to
the relief of their leader. Overjoyed to see them about him, but
frighted at the bear just behind him, he had forgot the gander that was
over his head, against which one of the men having levelled his piece,
fired and he fell dead at the Major’s feet. Animated now by the death of
one enemy, he recovered his gun, and faced about to assist in the attack
of the second. By this time the bear was scarce ten yards from him, and
beginning to growl, the Major just in the instant was seized with a
looseness, dropt his accoutrements, and fell back, that he might not be
in the way of his party, to impede the engagement. In the hurry he was
in, for in a man of such valour we must not say the fright, he entangled
his buttons, and not being able to hold any longer, he filled his
breeches. The crew in an instant had brought down the bear, and now it
was time for their leader to do something great. Having recovered his
arms, and seeing the poor beast groveling on the ground, and growling
out his last, like a ram in a pinfold, making a short race backwards in
order to redouble his force, he came with nine long strides forwards,
and with the strength and fierceness of an enraged bull, thrust his
lance full four feet deep in the dying bear’s belly. And now, says the
Major, cocking his hat, have not I done for the bear bravely! The
sailors, who are always in a good humour upon such occasions; but
Captain, said they, you have but half done your work, you have another
bear to kill yet. The Major, whose situation began to be troublesome,
content with the honour he had already acquired, my lads, said he, as I
have been the death of one bear, sure six of you may kill the other; so
ordering four of them to row him on board, he left the remaining six to
kill the other bear.
On this island two bears were killed, and a sea-horse. The sea-horse
made a desperate defence, being attacked in the water; and had there
been only one boat engaged in the combat, he certainly would have come
off victorious; but the crew of the Race-horse having learnt that there
were bears and sea-horses on this little spot, were willing to share in
the sport of hunting them, as well as in the pleasure of tasting their
flesh. They accordingly landed in their boats, and came in good time to
assist in pursuing the conquest. It happened, however, that their
ammunition, being almost spent, one great bear came up to revenge the
death of his fellows, and advanced so furiously, growling and barking,
that he put the whole company to flight, and some of them, it is said,
had no great reason to laugh at the Major.
On sounding the shores they remarked, that when the north islands bear
north forty-five east, seven or eight leagues, and Red-hill east by
south five miles, there is generally from twenty-five to thirty fathom
hard ground; but that closer on shore, when Red-hill bears east
one-fourth south about one mile, it increases to one hundred and fifteen
fathom, with soft black mud. The current about one mile an hour to the
north-east.
Tuesday 27, the air being perfectly serene, and the weather moderate,
the fishes seemed to enjoy the temperature, and to express it by their
sporting. The whales were seen spouting their fountains towards the
skies, and the fin fish following their example. They likewise this day
saw dolphins; the whole prospect in short was more pleasing and
picturesque than they had yet beheld in this remote region. The very ice
in which they were beset looked beautiful, and put forth a thousand
glittering forms, and the tops of the mountains, which they could see
like sparkling gems at a vast distance, had the appearance of so many
silver stars illuminating a new firmament. But this flattering prospect
did not continue long. By an accurate observation, they were now in
latitude 80 deg. 47 min. north; and in longitude 21 deg. 10 min. east
from London; and in sight of seven islands to the north, to which they
directed their course.
Wednesday 28, they had fresh easterly breezes, which, from moderate
weather the day before, changed to piercing cold. At midnight the west
end of Weygate straits bore south by east, so that they were now in the
very spot where Barentz had supposed an opening would be found into the
polar sea. Yet so far from it, they could discover nothing from the
mast-head, but a continued continent of solid ice, except the islands
already mentioned. On this ice, however, there were many bears, some of
which came so near the ships as to be shot dead with small arms. These
bears are very good eating, and where no better is to be purchased, the
whalers account them as good as beef. They are many of them larger than
the largest oxen, and weigh heavier. In many parts of their body they
are musket proof, and unless they are hit on the open chest, or on the
flank, a blow with a musket ball will hardly make them turn their backs.
Some of the bears killed in these encounters weighed from seven to eight
hundred weight; and it was thought, that the bear that routed the
sailors on Muffin’s Island, could not weigh less than a thousand weight.
He was, indeed, a very monster!
Thursday 29, sailing among innumerable islands of ice, they found the
main body too solid for the ships to make the least impression upon it,
and finding no opening, the Commodore resolved to send a party under the
command of the first Lieutenant to examine the land, which at a distance
appeared like a plain, diversified with hills and mountains, and
exhibited in their situation a tolerable landskip.
On trying the water, it was less salt than any sea water they had ever
tasted and they found likewise, that the ice was no other than a body of
congealed fresh water, which they imagined had been frozen in the
infancy of the earth.
Tuesday 30, the weather being clear, they ran close to the main body of
the ice, and the sun continuing to shine, made them almost forget the
climate they were sailing in, but it was not long before they had reason
for severe recollection. In coasting along, they observed many openings,
and were in hopes, from their distant appearance, that a passage might
be made between them; but, upon trial it was found, as the Dutch
fishermen had foretold, that these appearances were deceitful. At one in
the morning fine clear sun-shine, they sounded in sixteen fathom water,
and found small stones at bottom. They were then about four miles from
the north-east part of the northernmost land; the easternmost land in
sight, distant about five or six leagues.
Saturday 31, at midnight, the easternmost land in sight lay
east-north-east one half east, which they could not make out to be an
island. They rather judged it to be a continent, but found it impossible
to determine with certainty, as it lay beyond their reach. At nine in
the morning the Carcase hoisted out her cutter, and filled her empty
water-casks with water from the ice. On this ice lie great quantities of
snow, and as soon as a pit is dug, it fills with fine soft clear water,
not inferior to that of many land springs. At noon they sounded in
ninety five fathoms, the ground soft mud. This day a bear came over the
ice to visit them, the first they had seen since they left Muffin’s
Island. They saluted him with a volley of small arms, and he returned
the compliment, by turning his back upon them. Their longitude was this
day 21 degrees 26 minutes east, by time-keeper. Thermometer forty-five.
Sunday August 1, proved a day of trial. Lying too among the close ice,
with the loose ice driving fast to shore, the Commodore was desirous of
surveying the westernmost of the seven islands, which appeared the
highest, in order to judge, from the prospect on the hills, of the
possibility of proceeding farther on the discovery. With this view they
carried out their ice-anchors, and made both ships fast to the main
body, a practice very common with the fishing ships that annually
frequent those seas. Of the reconnoitring party, were the Captains, the
second Lieutenants, one of the mathematicians, the pilots, and some
chosen sailors, selected from both ships. They set out about two in the
morning, and sometimes sailing, sometimes drawing their boats over the
ice, they with difficulty reached the shore, where the first objects
they saw were a herd of deer, so very tame, that they seemed as curious
to gaze at the strangers, as the strangers were pleased to see them; for
they came five or six together so near, that they might have been killed
with the thrust of a bayonet; a proof that animals are not naturally
afraid of man, till, by the fate of their associates, they are taught
the danger of approaching them; a proof too, that animals are not
destitute of reflection, otherwise how should they conclude, that what
has befallen their fellow animals, will certainly happen to them, if
they run the like risque. The gentlemen, however, suffered only one of
these fearless innocents to be fired at, and that was done by a sailor
when they were absent on observation.
On this island they gathered some scurvy-grass, and in many places they
could perceive the sides of the hills covered with the verdure on which
these deer undoubtedly fed.
After having ascended the highest hills on the sea-coast, and taken a
view of the country and the ocean all round, the gentlemen descended,
and about five in the afternoon embarked again on their return to the
ships, at which they arrived safe about ten, after an absence of twenty
hours. They were greatly disappointed by the haziness of the weather on
the tops of the mountains, which confined the prospect, and prevented
their taking an observation with the instruments they had carried with
them for that purpose.
There is here a small variation in the journals of the two ships; that
kept on board the Commodore making the distance between the island and
the ships near twenty miles; the other only five leagues, which might
easily happen, as the ships shifted their stations with the main body of
ice, sometimes driving north-west, sometimes the contrary course, as the
wind and tides happened to sit.
Their situation now began to be serious, and it was discovered too late,
that by grappling to the ice, as practised by the Greenlandmen, they had
endangered the loss of the ships, the loose ice closing so fast about
them, that they found it absolutely impossible to get them disengaged;
and there was, besides, great reason to fear, that one or both would
soon be crushed to pieces. Great minds are ever most distinguished by
their expedients on the most alarming occasions. The Commodore set all
hands to work to form a dock in the solid ice, large enough to moor both
ships; and by the alacrity with which that service was performed, the
ships were preserved from the danger of immediate destruction.
The ships being thus far secured, the officers, pilots, and masters,
were all summoned on board the Commodore, to consult on what further was
to be done in their present unpromising situation; when it was
unanimously agreed, that their deliverance was hopeless; and that they
must either provide to winter upon the adjacent islands, or attempt to
launch their boats into the open sea, which was already at a
considerable distance; for the loose ice had poured into the bay in
which they were at anchor with so much rapidity, and in such astonishing
quantities, that the open sea was already far out of sight. Before any
thing farther was undertaken, the men were ordered to their quarters,
that they might refresh themselves with sleep.
While their Commanders preserve their fortitude, the sailors never lose
their courage. They rose in the morning with as much alacrity and
unconcern, as if they had been sailing with a fine breeze in the British
Channel.
August 2, it was now thought adviseable to make one desperate attempt to
extricate the ships, by cutting a channel to the westward into the open
sea. The scooping out the dock with so much expedition, by a party only
of one ship, raised high expectations of what might be performed by the
united labours of both the crews. No body of men ever undertook a work
of such difficulty with so much chearfulness and confidence of success,
as the sailors observed on this occasion. Their ice-saws, axes, sledges,
poles, and the whole group of sea-tools, were in an instant all employed
in facilitating the work; but after cutting through blocks of solid ice
from eight to fifteen feet deep, and coming to others of many fathoms,
that exceeded the powers of man to separate, that was laid aside as a
hopeless project; and another more promising, though not less laborious,
adopted in its room.
On the 3d of August, after the men had again refreshed themselves with
sleep, it was resolved to fit up the boats belonging to both the ships
with such coverings as were most easy to be accommodated, and of
lightest conveyance; and by skating them over the ice, endeavour to
launch them in the open sea. Could this be effected, they hoped, that by
sailing and rowing to the northernmost harbour of Spitsbergen, they
might arrive at that island, before the departure of the last ships
belonging to the fishery for Europe.
While the boats were getting ready for this expedition, a second party
were dispatched to the island, with orders to take the distance as exact
as it was possible to the nearest open sea. As all the people belonging
to the ships were not to be engaged in these services, those who were
unemployed diverted themselves in hunting and killing the bears, that
now, attracted perhaps by the savory smell of the provisions dressed on
board the ships, came every day over the ice to repeat their visits.
Several of these were killed occasionally, and this day they fought a
sea-horse, in which engagement the second Lieutenant of the Carcase
signalized his courage in a most desperate rencounter, in which,
however, he succeeded, though his life was in imminent danger.
On the 4th the carpenters, &c. were still employed in fitting up the
boats. The pilots, who the day before had been sent to make observations
on the islands already mentioned, made their report, that the nearest
water they had seen was about ten leagues to the westward; that in their
passage they had met with great numbers of spars or pine trees, floating
about the island, some of them of considerable size, with the bark
rotted off, and the bodies much worm-eaten; that there was neither tree
nor shrub to be seen growing on any of the seven islands, nor upon any
land that they had yet discovered in that latitude, nor for ten degrees
farther south, and that the trees they had seen must therefore have come
from a great distance.
Though there is nothing now in this observation, the like being annually
observed by all the navigators who frequent those seas in the summer,
and who collect their wood from those drifts, yet the country from
whence they proceed has hitherto been thought a mystery. But it being
now certain, that many of the great rivers that flow through the
northernmost parts of Russia, empty themselves into this sea; and that
there is an open communication throughout the different parts of it at
different seasons of the year, there seems very little reason to doubt,
but that those trees are torn up by land floods, and are precipitated
into the sea by the rapidity of the streams.
It has indeed been objected, that all the wood that is found floating in
this manner about the islands in high latitudes, is to a piece barked
and worm-eaten; and that if these trees were torn up and precipitated
into the sea in the manner above supposed, some of it would appear sound
and unbarked, as in its first state. To this it may be answered, that
were the course of the tides to run as constantly to the northward, as
the course of the rivers runs into the sea, this objection would be
unanswerable. But the very reverse is known to be the fact; and that
neither the winds nor the tides tend to the northwards for any
considerable part of the year; so that from the time these trees enter
the ocean, it must, in the ordinary course of things, be many ages
before they can reach the latitudes in which they are now found.
Because, if they are driven northwards by the strength of a storm from
the south, they will be driven in another direction by the next storm
that happens from another quarter; and all the while the calm continues,
they will be driven to and fro by the tides, which, as has been
observed, seldom set long to the north, therefore, being in continual
motion for ages, or being cast upon the shore by tempests, or high
tides, and lying there exposed to the air, till tempests or high tides
return them again to the ocean, they will, in a long progression of
time, be reduced to the state in which they are constantly found. This
solution is, however, offered with diffidence. The fact is certain, of
much wood being annually found about the islands in question; and it is
now of little importance from whence it proceeds, as a passage by the
north east to China will probably never more be sought.
On the 5th they had gentle breezes; but about four in the morning small
sleet. The ice still surrounding them, and appearing to grow more and
more solid and fixed, those who had till now retained hopes that the
south-east wind would again disunite its substance, and open a passage
for their deliverance, began to despair, as the wind had blown for
twenty-four hours from that quarter, from which alone they could have
relief, and not the least alteration to be perceived. The men, however,
were as joyous as ever, and shewed not the least concern about the
danger of their situation.
Early in the morning, the man at the mast-head of the Carcase gave
notice, that three bears were making their way very fast over the ice,
and that they were directing their course towards the ship. They had,
without question, been invited by the scent of the blubber of the
sea-horse killed a few days before, which the men had let on fire, and
which was burning on the ice at the time of their approach. They proved
to be a she-bear and her two cubbs; but the cubbs were nearly as large
as the dam. They ran eagerly to the fire, and drew out from the flames
part of the flesh of the sea-horse that remained unconsumed, and eat it
voraciously. The crew from the ship, by way of diversion, threw great
lumps of the flesh of the sea-horse which they had still left, out upon
the ice, which the old bear fetched away singly, laid each lump before
her cubbs as she brought it, and dividing it, gave each a share,
reserving but a small portion to herself. As she was fetching away the
last piece they had to bestow, they levelled their muskets at the cubbs,
and shot them both dead; and in her retreat, they also wounded the dam,
but not mortally. It would have drawn tears of pity from any but
unfeeling minds, to have marked the affectionate concern expressed by
this poor beast, in the dying moments of her expiring young. Tho’ she
was sorely wounded, and could but just crawl to the place where they
lay, she carried the lump of flesh she had fetched away, as she had done
the others before, tore it in pieces, and laid it down before them, and
when she saw that they refused to eat, she laid her paws first upon one,
and then upon the other, and endeavoured to raise them up. All this
while it was pitiful to hear her moan. When she found she could not stir
them, she went off, and when she had got at some distance, looked back
and moaned; and that not availing her to entice them away, she returned,
and smelling round them, began to lick their wounds. She went off a
second time, as before, and having crawled a few paces, looked again
behind her, and for some time stood moaning. But still her cubbs not
rising to follow her, she returned to them again, and with signs of
inexpressible fondness, went round one and round the other, pawing them,
and moaning. Finding at last that they were cold and lifeless, she
raised her head towards the ship, and, like Caliban in the tempest,
growled a curse upon the murderers, which they returned with a volley of
musket-balls. She fell between her cubbs, and died licking their wounds.
If what is related by a voyager of credit in the last century be true,
the filial fondness of these animals is no less remarkable than the
maternal. The young ones, says he, keep constantly close to the old
ones. We observed that two young ones and an old one would not leave one
another, for if one ran away, it turned back again immediately, as soon
as it did hear the others in danger, as if it would come to help them.
The old one ran to the young one, and the young one to the old one; and
rather than they would leave one another, they would suffer themselves
to be all killed.
Friday the 6th, the weather calm, but foggy, and the winds variable;
they discovered that the drift of the ship, with the whole body of ice,
inclined fast to the eastward; and that they were already embayed in the
very middle of the seven islands. They therefore sent off the pilots of
both ships, with a party of sailors, to the northernmost island, to see
what discoveries could be made from the promontories there. They
returned at night, after a fatiguing journey, with a dismal account,
that nothing was to be seen from thence but a vast continent of ice, of
which there was no end; and that the thought of wintering in such a
situation was more dreadful, than that of perishing by instant death.
Saturday 7, the wind set in north-north-east, veered to the north; to
the north-east and east, piercing cold. This day the boats were all
brought in readiness on the ice, fitted with weather cloaths about
thirteen inches above the gunnels, in order to keep off the cold as much
as possible, if by good fortune they should be enabled to launch them in
an open sea. This day was employed chiefly in boiling provisions to put
in the boats for the intended voyage; in delivering out bags to the men
to carry their bread, and in packing up such necessaries as every one
could take along with him, for now every man was to be his own porter,
the necessary provisions and liquors being found load enough for the
boats, and twenty-five days bread load enough for each man. This being
adjusted, when night approached they were all ordered on board to sleep.
Thursday 8, at six in the morning all hands were ordered to turn out,
and a detachment of fifty men from each ship, headed by their respective
officers, were appointed to begin the hard task of hawling the launces
along the ice. The bravest and gallantest actions performed in war, do
not so strikingly mark the true character of a sea Commander, as the
readiness and alacrity with which his orders are obeyed in times of
imminent danger. Every one now strove who should have the honour to be
listed in the band of haulers, of whom the Commodore took the direction,
leaving Capt. Lutwych to take care of both the ships, that if any
favourable turn should happen in the disposition of the ice, he might
make use of the remaining part of both the crews to improve it. Upon a
general consultation of officers, previous to this undertaking, it had
been agreed, and an order issued accordingly, that no person on board,
of whatever rank, should encumber himself with more cloaths than what he
wore upon his back. Upon this occasion, therefore, the officers dressed
themselves in flannels, and the common men put on the cloaths which the
officers had thrown off. It was inconceivably laughable to see these
motley bands yoked in their new harness; and, to say the truth, there
was not one solemn face among the two companies. That headed by the
Commodore drew stoutly for the honour of their leader, and that headed
by their Lieutenants had their music to play to them, that they might
dance it away, and keep pace with the Commander in chief. Indeed the
officers who headed them were deservedly beloved as well as their
Commanders, particularly Lieutenant Beard, whose steady and uniform
conduct in times of the greatest danger, cannot be sufficiently admired
or applauded. Neither swayed by passion, nor disconcerted by the sudden
embarrassments that often intervened, his conduct was always calm, and
his orders resolute. He never was heard, during the whole voyage on the
most pressing emergencies, to enforce his commands with an oath, or to
call a sailor by any other than his usual name; and so sensible were
they of his manly behaviour, that, when the ship was paid off at
Deptford, they were only prevented by his most earnest request from
stripping themselves to their shirts, to cover the streets with their
cloaths, that he might not tread in the dirt in going to take coach.
In six hours, with the utmost efforts of human labour, they had only
proceeded a single mile; and now it was time for them to dine, and
recruit their almost exhausted spirits. As the Commodore had laboured
with them, it was in character that he should dine with them also; and
an accident happened that made it necessary for him so to do. The Cook,
with his mates, (who were bringing the Commodore and the officers their
dinners under covers) to keep out the cold after coming from a warm
fire-side, had made a little too free with the brandy bottle before they
set out, and before they had got half way to the lances, the liquor
began to operate; the Cooks were sometimes very near boarding each
other, sometimes they hauled off, and sometimes steered right a-head. At
length coming to a chasm, or parting of the ice, which they were obliged
to leap, down came the master Cook, with dish, cover, meat and all; and
what was still worse, though it was not then thought of much value, the
Commodore’s common service of plate, which the Cook carried for the
officers to dine on, fell in the chasm, and instantly sunk to the
bottom. This accident brought the Cook a little to himself, and he now
stood pausing whether he should jump down the gulph after the plate, or
proceed to the Commodore to beg mercy and make his apology. His mates
persuaded him to the latter, as the Commodore was a kind-hearted gemman,
and would never take a man’s life away for a slip on the ice. Besides,
it was a great jump for a fat man, and Commodore, they were sure, had
rather lose all the plate in the great cabin, than lose Cookie.
Comforted a little by this speech, the Cook proceeded, but let his mates
go on first with what remained, to carry the tidings of what befell the
rest. When the Commodore had heard the story, he judged how it was with
them all. But where is the Cook, said he to the mates? He’s crying
behind, an please your Honour. In the mean time the Cook came up. Cook,
said the Commodore, bring me your dinner. I will dine to-day with my
comrades. My dinner! Ay, a pound of the flesh next my heart, if your
Honour likes it. The promptness of the reply shewed the sincerity of the
Cook’s good-will, and pleased the Commodore better than a feast upon
turtle. He dismissed him with a smile, and partook with the officers in
what was left, who made up their dinners with a mess from the common
men.
They had just begun to renew their labour, when word was brought, that
the whole body of ice had changed its situation, and was moving to the
westward; that the ships were both a-float; and that the ice was
parting. The joy which this news diffused through the two companies of
hawlers is easier to conceive than express. They instantly shook off
their harness, ran to assist in working the ships, and once more to
resume their proper employments. When they arrived at the ships, Captain
Lutwych, who was no less beloved by his men than the Commodore, had by
his example and his judicious directions done wonders. Both ships were
not only a-float, with their sails set, but actually cut and warped
through the ice near half a mile. This ray of hope, however, was soon
darkened; the body of ice suddenly assumed its former direction to the
eastward, and closed upon them again as fast as ever. While the ships
remained in the ice-dock, they were lashed together for their greater
security, but now being launched and a-float, the ice pressed upon them
with such weight, that it was every moment expected that the hawser
would break that held them together; orders were therefore given, that
the hawser should be slackened, and the ships released.
For the remainder of the evening, and till two in the morning, the drift
continued eastward, and all that while the ships were in danger of being
crushed by the closing of the channel in which they rode. They had now
drifted two miles to the eastward; the men were worn out with fatigue in
defending the ships with their ice-poles from being engulphed; and now
nothing but scenes of horror and perdition appeared before their eyes.
But the Omnipotent, in the very moment, when every hope of deliverance
from their own united endeavours had relinquished them, interposed in
their favours, and caused the winds to blow, and the ice to part in an
astonishing manner, rending and cracking with a tremendous noise,
surpassing that of the loudest thunder. At this very instant the whole
continent of ice, which before was extended beyond the reach of sight
from the highest mountains, moved together in various directions,
splitting and dividing into vast bodies, and forming hills and plains of
various figures and dimensions. All hearts were now again revived, and
the prospect of being once more released from the frozen chains of the
north inspired the men with fresh vigour. Every officer and every idler
on board laboured now for life. The sails were all spread, that the
ships might have the full advantage of the breeze to force them through
the channels that were already opened, and to help them, like wedges, to
rend the clefts that were but just cracking.
While the major part of the crews were employed in warping the ships
with ice-anchors, axes, saws and poles, a party from both ships were
dispatched to launch the boats. This was no easy task to accomplish. The
ice, though split in many thousand pieces, was yet frozen like an island
round the lances, and though it was of no great extent, yet the boats
were of a weight hardly to be moved by the small force that could be
spared to launch them. They were besides, by the driving of the ice, at
more than five miles distance from the ships; and at this time no
channels of communication were yet opened. But Providence was manifest
even on this occasion; for the island on which the lances stood, parted
while the men were hauling them, and by that lucky circumstance they
were launched with great facility, without the loss of a man, though the
ice cracked, as it were, under their feet.
The people on board had not been able to force their way with the ships
much more than a mile, when the party in the lances joined them. And
now, excited by what curiosity or instinct is not easy to determine,
several bears came posting over the ice to be spectators of their
departure, and advanced so near the ships, that they might have been
easily mastered, had not the men been more seriously employed.
This day they altered their soundings from thirty to fifty fathoms, and
from fifty to eighty and eighty-five fathoms.
The breeze continuing fresh from east-south-east and east, the ice
seemed to open as fast as it had before closed when the wind blew
westerly, and from the north; a strong presumptive proof of land to the
eastward, which stopping the current of the loose ice in driving from
the north and west, closes it in course, and renders it compact. On the
contrary, when the wind blows off the land, and the current sets to the
sea, the loose ice being no longer opposed, disperses itself again in
the ocean, where it again floats, till the same cause produces the same
effect. If therefore the land which our voyagers saw on the 30th, and
which they could not determine with certainty to be an island, should,
upon some future occasion, be discovered to be a continent, then the
closing of the loose ice so suddenly about the _seven islands_, and its
crouding one piece upon another to a great height, when violently
agitated by tempests from the north or west, will be fully and naturally
accounted for.
Tuesday the 10th, about two in the morning, the fog being thick, and the
weather calm, and the men very much fatigued, they were ordered to their
quarters, to refresh themselves with sleep. It was, besides, very cold,
and much rain fell; and as the wind was variable, they could make but
little progress. The ice, in the morning early, seemed rather to close
upon them, than to divide; and being apprehensive for their boats, they
attempted to hoist the lances on board, but that belonging to the
Carcase, being either too unweildy, or the men too much fatigued to
effect it, they slung her to the ship’s side.
About eight the breeze sprung up fresh from the north-east, exceedingly
cold, but opening the ice to the westward. They then made all the sail
they could, driving with the loosening ice, and parting it wherever it
was moveable with their whole force. Towards noon they lost sight of the
_Seven Islands_. And in a very little while after, to their great joy,
Spitsbergen was seen from the mast-head.
Wednesday 11, the men who, with hard labour, cold and watching, were
much dispirited, on the prospect of a speedy deliverance, and seeing the
ice no longer adhere in immoveable bodies, began, after a little
refreshment, to resume their wonted chearfulness. They had not till the
second closing of the ice, after the attempt to dig a passage through it
had proved ineffectual, and that the hauling the lances had been tried
with little better success, discovered the least despondency. But when
they had exerted their utmost efforts, and Providence, which at first
seemed to second their endeavours, appeared to have forsaken them; when
their pilots had filled their minds with the terrors of their situation;
and their officers had given the ships and their most valuable effects
over for lost, the men then began to reflect on the hardships they were
likely to suffer, and to be impressed with the sense of their common
danger. Their apprehensions, however, were but temporary, and the moment
they were released from their icey prison, and that they were within
sight of a clear sea, their sorrow was changed to mirth, and their
melancholy to rejoicing. Festivity and jolity took place of abstinence
and gloomy apprehensions; and before they arrived at Spitsbergen, there
was not a sailor on board with a serious face.
The ice that had parted from the main body, they had now time to admire.
As it no longer obstructed their course, the various shapes in which the
broken fragments appeared, were indeed very curious and amusing. One
remarkable piece described a magnificent arch so large and compleatly
formed, that a sloop of considerable burden might have sailed through it
without lowering her mast; another represented a church with windows and
pillars, and domes; and a third, a table with icicles hanging round it
like the fringes of a damask cloth. A fertile imagination might here
find entertainment enough for, as has already been observed, the
similitude of all that art or nature has ever yet produced, might here
be fancied.
They continued working all this day through the loose ice. Hacluit’s
Headland bearing south thirty-nine west, and in their course saw a Dutch
Greenlandman in the south-west quarter.
Thursday the 12th, they cleared the ice, and bore away with all sails
set for the harbour of Smearingburg, in which they had before cast
anchor. At two in the afternoon they anchored in North Bay, the north
part of Vogle Sound bearing north forty-five east, distance about four
miles. At half after four the Commodore made the signal to weigh; and at
half past nine, came to an anchor in their former station, where they
found four Dutch Greenlandmen lying in readiness to depart. These
Dutchmen acquainted the Commodore, that all the English fishing ships
set sail on the 10th of July, the day to which they are obliged by
contract, to stay to entitle their owners to receive the bounty-money,
allowed by Parliament for the encouragement of that fishery.
About the same time the greatest part of the Dutch set sail likewise
from Spitsbergen, on their voyage home; but it is a practice with these
last, to take it by turns to wait till the severity of the weather
obliges them to leave the coast, in order to pick up such men as may by
accident have lost their ships in the ice; and who, notwithstanding, may
have had the good fortune to save their lives by means of their boats.
This is a very humane institution, and does credit to the Dutch
Government. Did the British Government bear an equal regard for
individuals, so many valuable subjects would never be suffered to
migrate, as now annually hire ships to convey themselves to seek their
fortunes in new settlements. It is estimated, that twelve thousand at
least are yearly shipt off from Ireland, and not many less from England
and Scotland, yet no measures are thought necessary to be taken to
retain them at home.
The turn of waiting at Spitsbergen falls annually to the lot of about
five Dutch ships, who are obliged to send out their boats daily in
search of their unfortunate fellow subjects; some of these boats have
themselves suffered severely, and have been detained seven or eight days
by severe weather in these excursions, to the great anxiety of their
friends.
The day of our voyagers return to Smearingburg Harbour being fine, the
Commodore ordered a tent to be raised on the lower point to the
south-west, where there was a level plain for the space of two miles,
and where all the mathematical apparatus were again taken on shore for a
second trial.
They found, on the examination of the vibration of the pendulum, that it
differed from that at Greenwich by Harrison’s time-keeper, only two
seconds in forty-eight hours; which time-keeper, at their arrival at
Greenwich, varied only one second and a half from the time-pieces at the
observatory there. Mr. Robinson, who was articled to Commodore Phipps,
from Christ’s Hospital, and who does honour to that noble foundation,
was particularly careful to note the result of all the observations that
were made in this high latitude.
The ovens were also here taken on shore, and a considerable quantity of
good soft bread baked for the refreshment of the men.
Hacluit’s Headland, of which mention has been frequently made in the
course of this voyage, is an island on the north-west point of
Spitsbergen, about fifteen miles in circumference, on which is found
plenty of scurvy-grass; and in the valleys, some of which extend from
two to three miles, there is store of other grass in summer, on which
the deer is supposed to feed.
The people were now fully employed in overhauling the rigging, tarring
the ships sides, taking in water, peying and securing the masts, and in
preparing the ships for pursuing their voyage upon discovery; or, if
that was found impracticable, for returning home.
On the 16th, two of the Dutch ships weighed anchor, and sailed away in
company.
On the 17th, vast pieces of broken ice, supposed to have fallen from the
Icebergs, came floating into harbour. When these pieces, which are
undermined by the continual agitation of the sea in stormy weather, lose
their support, they tumble with a crack that surpasses the loudest
thunder; but they were told, that no other thunder was ever heard in
this latitude.
The activity and enterprizing spirit of the Russians already noticed,
begin to manifest itself every where, and it is not improbable, but that
the maritime powers may one day or other have cause to repent their
emulation in contributing to aggrandize the naval power of that
increasing people. The dominions of the Russian empire, are situated to
command the trade of the universe; they are now actually erecting a yard
for building ships at Kampschatka, to improve their discoveries from
that quarter, and to open a trade from thence to China. They have
attempted to settle colonies, as our voyagers were told, on the
southernmost districts of Spitsbergen, and those of the new settlers,
who survived the first winter, were preparing to encounter the rigour of
the climate in a second. This can only be done by way of experiment, to
try if a settlement is practicable, for those now sent are said to be
criminals.
During the six days which the ships anchored here to make observations,
take in water, refresh the men, and refit, our journalist made several
excursions to the adjoining islands, where the birds appeared in
astonishing numbers; it being the season for bringing forth their young,
and teaching them to fly, and to dive.
Of all the birds that breed in these islands, the burgermaster is the
largest, and the most ravenous; he is so called by the Dutch, from his
size and his authority, as he holds all the other birds in subjection.
His bill is long and crooked, rather like that of the stork, than that
of the hawk, and is of a yellow colour. He has a red ring about his
eyes; is web footed, but has but three claws on each foot. His wings are
of a beautiful pearl colour, edged with white; his back a silver grey;
his body white as snow, and his tail of the same colour, which when he
flies he spreads like a fan. He builds his nest very high in the rocks,
inaccessible either to bears or foxes. He preys upon all the other
birds, and eats the carrion of fish or flesh, or whatever comes in his
way. His cry is horrible, and when he screams, the mallemuch, a bird as
large as a duck, is so much intimidated, that she will sink down, and
suffer him to devour her without opposition.
Our journalist found it very dangerous to pursue his way over the hills
and precipices in this rugged country. The clefts on the mountains are
like those in the ice frequently impassable; but they are abundantly
more hazardous, being sometimes concealed under the snow, so that a
traveller is engulphed before he is aware. Many have been entombed in
these clefts; and perished in the hearing of their companions, without a
possibility of relief. To a contemplative mind, however, even the
deformities of nature, are not unpleasing, the wisdom of the Creator
being manifest in all his works.
On the 19th of August the ships unmoored, and on the twentieth they
cleared the harbour. They found the tide to flow north-east and
south-west, and to rise three feet seven inches perpendicular height.
On the 22d they again found themselves beset with loose ice. They were
then in latitude 80 degrees 14 minutes north, longitude 5 degrees 44
minutes east.
On the 22d they had a heavy sea from the south-west quarter.
On the 23d the Carcase, being a heavier sailer than the Race Horse, lost
sight of the Commodore, and fired a six-pounder, which was answered. In
the evening they came in sight, and pursued their course with favourable
weather, and without any thing worthy of notice happening till
September 5, when, being clear and calm weather, the Commodore sounded,
and found ground with seven hundred fathoms, very soft mud. The people
were employed eight hours in heaving up the lead with the capstan. At
three in the morning the sun risen, took the amplitude, and found the
variation to be 22 degrees 53 minutes west.
September 7, at five in the afternoon, they had heavy squalls, with
rain; at seven in the morning moderate weather. This day, in 60 degrees
15 minutes west, they found their longitude, corrected by observation of
sun and moon, to be 5 degrees 59 minutes east. Longitude by time-keeper
4 degrees 45 minutes east; a very remarkable difference.
The ships pursued their course home in company together, with high seas
and variable weather, till
Sept. 11, when, at half after ten, the night dark, and the weather
moderate, the wind all at once veered to the southward, and a strong
gale with a great sea came on. The ships parted, and never more came in
sight till they met off Harwich, on the English coast.
Our journalist being on board the Carcase, can now only relate what
happened to that sloop, till her arrival in the River Thames.
When the gale came on, the Commodore’s lights not appearing, the Carcase
fired a six-pounder, but that shot not being returned by the Race Horse,
it was concluded, that the Commodore was at too great a distance to hear
the signal. At four in the morning the gale increasing, they close
reefed the top-sails, and employed all hands in lashing and securing the
boats and booms, and preparing to withstand the threatening storm. At
this time they were in lat. 57 deg. 44 min. north; the Naze of Norway
bearing south eighty-eight east, distant thirty-one leagues.
Sunday, September 12, fresh gales, with frequent showers of rain; handed
gib and stay-sail; at two in the afternoon hard squalls and violent
showers of rain; handed fore and mizen top-sail; saw a sail to southward
standing to eastward; cloudy and obscure sky at ten at night came on
suddenly a very heavy squall; handed all the top-sails; strong gale,
with severe showers of rain. At midnight blowing a violent storm of
wind, reefed and handed the main-sail and fore-sail; lowered down the
lower yards, balanced the mizen, and laid the ship too under it, with
her head to the westward; the sea making a free passage over the ship.
Shipped such heavy seas, washed all the provisions and casks that were
lashed on the deck, over board; kept two pumps continually going;
obliged to skuttle the boats, to prevent their being washed over-board.
At four in the morning shipped such heavy seas, as washed all the booms
and spars that had been with all possible care secured on the deck,
over-board. The ship mostly under water. No sight of the Commodore;
under great apprehensions for his safety, as his vessel laboured much
more than ours. At this time one of the mates, the carpenter, and a
fore-mast-man, were washed over-board. The carpenter, a very careful
sober man, who was in the waste, securing the hatches and stores, was
washed in and out at the ports three times, before he could secure
himself. At ten in the morning rather moderate. Set the mizen-stay-sail;
swayed the lower yards up, and set the courses. At half past eleven,
strong squalls and heavy gusts; handed both courses; and settled the
lower yards.
September 13, strong gales and squally. Continually shipping heavy seas.
At three in the afternoon rather more moderate; set reef courses; swayed
up the lower yards, and set the main-top-sail. The ship now making no
water; at seven in the evening set fore-top-sail and gib; very heavy sea
from south-west quarter. At eight in the evening moderate and cloudy;
let the third reef out of the main-top-sail; sounded thirty-five fathoms
fine brown sand. At one in the morning light airs, hazey weather, and
great sea. Wore ship, and stood to westward. At four fresh breezes, with
rain. At half past eight saw a sail to eastward; supposing it the
Commodore, made the private signal, and fired a six-pounder. At nine
bore down upon her, and brought her to. She proved a Hollander from
Archangel, bound to Bremen. Course south forty-two west, latitude
fifty-six deg. four min. north.
September 14, strong gales, and cloudy; under reef courses. At two in
the afternoon moderate; set main-top-sail. At three set fore-top-sail; a
great sea from westward. At seven in the evening moderate and cloudy.
Out the third reef of the main-top-sail; uncertain weather; squally, and
at times much rain; at three great fog. This day, at noon,
Flamborough-head south forty-six west, distance thirty leagues.
September 15, light breezes, and clear weather; out all reefs, and
swayed up the lower yards. At four in the afternoon saw a sail to
south-east; bore down, and brought her to. She proved to be a Prussian
fisherman, had been ten days from Edinburgh; hoisted out the small
cutter; the second Lieutenant went on board of her, and bought a fine
cargo of fish. At five the boat returned; we hoisted her on board, with
plenty of mackarel and herrings. Made sail, and stood to south-west;
sounded every half hour; found from thirteen to fifteen, and eighteen
fathoms, fine brown sand, mixed with black shells. At seven in the
evening took the first reef, and hauled in the top-sails; fresh gales,
and cloudy. At two in the morning deepened in water to twenty fathom.
Took in second reef of the top-sails; tacked ship, and stood to
north-west. At five in the morning got into fifteen fathom; and at seven
into ten. At nine in the morning close reefed the top-sails, and at ten
handed them; very fresh gale, and violent rain.
September 16, rather more moderate; set the main-top-sail; squally, with
rain; a confused sea from west-north-west. At five in the afternoon
soundings from five to twelve, from twenty-seven to thirty-two and
thirty-four fathoms, fine brown sand, black specks, fresh gales, and
cloudy. At eight took in first and second reefs of top-sails; at eleven
at night close reefed the main and fore-top-sail, and handed the mizen;
fresh gales, and cloudy weather. At four in the morning shoaled water to
twenty-two fathoms; brown sand and broken shells. At five saw several
sail to north-west; fired, and brought one of them to. At eight shook
the first and second reefs out of the top-sail; hove down upon a sloop,
which came from Gravesend; took on board the master, as a pilot to carry
the ship through Yarmouth Roads; put on board one man in his room, and
ordered his vessel to follow us. Stood to the southward.
September 17, fresh breezes, and cloudy weather; kept the lead going
every half hour; found our sounding from ten to twelve fathoms, fine
brown sand. At six in the afternoon fresh gales; close reefed the
main-top-sail; soundings from ten to sixteen fathom; broken shells and
large stones. At seven close reefed the main-top-sail; kept a light in
the poop-lanthorn for the sloop. At ten strong gales; handed the
top-sails; laid her to under the main-sail; handed the fore-sail. At
eleven at night got into five fathom; but deepened to eight, nine, and
ten fathom, brown sand. Lost sight of the fishing vessel; fired several
guns, and made a signal in the mizen-shroud. On setting the
fore-top-sail stacil, it blew to pieces; bent a new one. A violent gale
of wind; shipped a great quantity of water. At four rather moderate; set
the fore-sail. At midnight set close; reefed top-sails. At half past six
tacked; at seven saw the fishing vessel; bore down and spoke with her,
who had split her main-sail in the night. At ten saw the land bearing
south-west by west, and south and by west. At eleven being clear and
moderate weather, shook all the reefs out of the top-sails, and set the
top-gallant-sail; saw Cromer light-house, bearing south 55 degrees west,
distance five leagues.
September 19, fresh breezes and clear weather; bent the sheet-cable, and
hauled a range of the best and small bower-cables; bent both buoy ropes
and buoys to the anchor. At five light breezes and fair; tacked and
stood to the southward. At six tacked and stood to the north-west.
Cramer north-west and by north four miles; light breezes, and pleasant
weather; handed in top-gallant-sails, and handed the main-sail. At seven
in the evening, to our great joy, saw Yarmouth Church, bearing
south-west. At ten at night came to anchor with the best bower in twelve
fathom, fine sand and clay; veered out to half a cable, and handed all
the sails. Winterstone Ness lights bore south and by west four miles. At
two in the morning fresh breezes and cloudy. At half past four weighed,
and made sail. Employed in working from Winterstone Ness lights, to
Yarmouth Roads, making several tacks. At seven in the morning set
top-gallant-sails; at nine came to an anchor in Yarmouth Road, with best
bower in seven fathoms water; sand and clay. Yarmouth church south
fifteen west, distance two miles. Came on board a pilot to carry the
ship to the Nore.
September 20, fresh breezes and clear weather; sent down
top-gallant-yards, and got every thing clear for striking tokens. At
five in the afternoon moored the ship. Yarmouth church west-south-west
two miles.
September 21, fresh gales and cloudy, with frequent rain. At four in the
afternoon sent down top-gallant-mast. At eight in the morning sent the
long-boat on shore for water. We were this day visited by several of the
inhabitants of Norwich and Yarmouth, who were genteelly entertained by
the officers, but we could get no intelligence of the Commodore.
September 23, dark cloudy weather. At six in the evening swayed up the
top-mast, and lower yards; the wind veered to north-west, we prepared to
unmoor. Fresh gales, with frequent flashes of lightning. At seven in the
morning set on top-gallant-mast, and began to unmoor. At eight veered
away upon the best bower, and took up the small bower-anchor. At nine
weighed and made sail. At ten got up the top-gallant-yards, in company
with several ships.
Saturday 25, at five came to an anchor in eleven fathoms. Orford
light-house east by south four miles. This day some religious books were
distributed among the sailors, which had been sent on board by some
pious person for their particular perusal.
Sunday 26. At six in the evening came to with the best bower in seven
fathoms water; Balsey church west by south. At two in the morning
weighed, and came to sail; Harwich lights north-west by west. To their
great surprise, saw the Race Horse at anchor. Hoisted out the cutter,
and Capt. Lutwidge waited on the Commodore, from whom he learnt, that in
the storm of the twelfth they had all their boats washed over-board;
and, to ease the ship, were obliged to heave all their guns over-board,
except two. Came to anchor; Harwich church north-west.
Monday 27, at two in the afternoon weighed, and came to sail in company
with the Race Horse. At eight in the evening came to in the Swin. At
five in the morning weighed, in company as before. Turning up the Swin
at half past nine, came to; Whitaker Beacon north-north-east one mile.
Tuesday 28, fresh breezes and cloudy weather. At half past three
weighed, and came to sail. At half past six came to with the best bower
in six fathom water; Shoe Beacon north-west. At half past five weighed,
and came to sail. Working to windward at eleven in the forenoon, the
Commodore’s boat came on board, with orders to proceed to Deptford. At
noon came to at the Nore with the best bower.
Wednesday 29, light breezes and fair weather. At half past five weighed,
and made sail. Employed in working up the river. At half past ten came
to with the best bower in the gallions, in three fathoms water. Woolwich
church north by south one half east. At noon a hoy came along-side for
the gunner’s stores.
Thursday 30, employed most of the afternoon in getting out the guns, and
gunner’s stores. At nine in the evening weighed, and came to sail. At
ten run foul of a large transport, and carried away the lar-board
mizen-shrouds, and part of the channel. At one in the morning came to
anchor at Deptford. Warped along-side the Bedford Hulk, and moored. At
six unbent the sails, and began to unrig.
Thus ended a voyage, which seems to have determined the question so much
agitated concerning the navigation to the north pole, and proved what
Captain Wood had before asserted, that no passage would ever be found
practicable in that direction.
From the quantities of ice which that navigator met with in latitude 76
north, longitude [missing number] east, he concluded indeed erroneously,
that the 80th degree would bound the passage towards the poles, and that
from thence the polar region was either a continued continent of solid
ice, or that land filled up the intermediate space.
It has been found, however, that those seas are navigable as far as
between the eighty-first and eighty-second degrees of latitude; and it
may possibly happen, that in some future years, they may be found
navigable a degree or two farther: but it may now with certainty be
concluded, that a course under the pole can never be pursued for the
purpose of commerce.
We have already shewn incontestibly, that the north sea communicates
with the eastern sea, and that the passage to China and Japan may be
performed with difficulty by a north-east course, by watching the
opportunity, when a few days in the year the north sea is open. But who
would think of exposing a ship’s company to the hazard of being frozen
to death in a tedious, uncertain, and dangerous passage, when a safe,
certain, and, one may say, speedy passage at all times lies open before
them.
From Behring’s discoveries to the east of Japan, and from the continent
he there met with, there seems reason to believe, that the land seen by
Commodore Phipps to the eastward of the Seven Islands, might be a
continuation of that continent. In that case it is not improbable, but
that either that continent may join to the western part of America, or
that it may extend southward, and form a part of that continent so much
sought after in the southern hemisphere.
A small premium of two or three thousand pounds secured by Parliament,
to be paid to the owner or owners of any Greenland fishing ship, that
should be fortunate enough to discover such a continent to the eastward
or northward of the _Seven Islands_, might possibly have a better
effect, than many expensive expeditions fitted out solely for the
purposes of such discovery. This, by a trading nation, were it only to
improve the science of geography, would surely be well bestowed.
It is true, indeed, that the reward secured by parliament for the
discovery of a north-west passage, has not yet been attended with that
success, with which the promoters of the bill had flattered themselves
and the public, from the liberal spirit with which it was granted.
The Hudson’s Bay Company, though bound by their charter to further and
promote the discovery, were generally suspected, from interested
motives, to oppose and discourage every attempt to accomplish it. And
Captain Middleton, who in 1740 was sent in a king’s ship upon that
service, returning without success, was publicly charged with having
received a bribe of five thousand pounds to defeat the undertaking, and
by his report to discourage any farther attempts in pursuit of it. This
charge was strongly supported, and generally credited. And Mr. Dobbs, by
whose interest Captain Middleton was employed, had the address to
prevail with the then ministry, to preclude any future scheme of private
corruption, by promoting the public reward already mentioned.
The preamble to the act will state this matter in the true light it lets
forth, “That whereas the discovery of a north-west passage through
Hudson’s Streight to the western ocean would be of great benefit and
advantage to this kingdom, and that it would be of great advantage to
the adventurers to attempt the same, if a public reward was given to
such persons as should make a perfect discovery of the said passage; it
is therefore enacted, that if any ships or vessels belonging to his
majesty’s subjects shall find out and sail through any passage by sea
between Hudson’s bay and the western ocean of America, the owners of
such ships or vessels shall be entitled to receive as a reward for such
discovery the sum of TWENTY-THOUSAND POUNDS.” And as a farther
encouragement to prosecute this discovery, and to prevent obstructions
from interested persons, it was enacted, “that all persons, subjects of
his Majesty, residing in any place where the said adventurers may come
in the prosecution of this discovery, shall give the said adventurers
all assistance, and shall no way obstruct, molest, or refuse the said
adventurers reasonable succour in any distress they may fall into in the
prosecution of this discovery.”
Such was the encouragement, and such the liberal reward that was and is
secured by parliament to the fortunate discoverers of a north-west
passage to the great pacific ocean; a passage which, it is generally
believed, would open a trade with nations on the northern continent of
America, wholly unknown to the maritime powers of Europe, and supposed,
from their situation, to abound in commodities equally rare and precious
with those of any other country under the sun.
The fair prospect of acquiring fame by enlarging commerce, the hope of
obtaining the parliamentary reward, and the desire of exposing the
dis-ingenuity of Captain Middleton, were incitements sufficient to
prevail with Mr. Dobbs to sollicit the equipment of two ships for
another voyage, which he made not the least doubt would find out the
passage so long sought for in vain, and by the advantages attending the
discovery, exceed the most sanguine expectations of the adventurers.
The command of this expedition was given to Captain Ellis, who, on the
31st of May, 1746, passed Yarmouth in the Dobb’s Galley, accompanied by
the California Sloop, and convoyed to the north sea by the Loo man of
war. But in proportion as Mr. Dobbs had flattered the avarice of the
adventurers who were to share in the reward, and had elated himself with
the thoughts of triumphing over the disgrace of Captain Middleton, so it
happened, that when the ships returned without having effected any one
thing of consequence, the chagrin of the former for having advanced
their money on a visionary project, and the mortification of the latter
in not being able to support his charge, were increased by every
circumstance that could aggravate the disappointment. Captain Middleton
now triumphed in his turn, and no ship from England has since been
induced to undertake the voyage, notwithstanding the greatness of the
reward.
It is now, however, believed, that Government have in contemplation
another voyage to the north, to which that of Captain Phipps was only
the prelude; but there is reason to conclude, from what has already been
said of these latter attempts, and from the ill success of former
undertakings, that the discovery of a north-west passage is not the sole
object in view. The figure of the earth, the phenomena of the winds, the
variation of the compass, and the attraction of the magnet, are points
yet unsettled, of infinite importance to navigation; and it is not
impossible, but that a more careful examination of the polar regions may
lead to the solution of problems, that have hitherto baffled the
enquiries of the ablest navigators.
A very slender acquaintance with the difficulties and hardships
attending northern discoveries, will fully account for our knowledge of
the countries surrounding the pole being still very imperfect. A brief
recapitulation of the sufferings of those to whom we are most indebted
for our information, will not, we hope, be thought an improper
conclusion to a voyage solely undertaken with a view to enlarge it.
The first who conceived the idea of exploring the northern regions was
Sebastian Cabbot. That enterprizing navigator, long before Magellan
thought of a passage to the pacific ocean by the south-west, had made
two voyages, with a view to direct his course to the same sea by the
north-west. In these voyages, he discovered Newfoundland, the coast of
the Esquimeaux Indians, and had penetrated as far as the 64th degree of
latitude, when a mutiny among his men, or rather an obstinate refusal to
proceed any further, obliged him to return; yet he died in the
persuasion that a passage in that direction certainly existed, and that
he should have found it but for the opposition of his crew.
The next, who, prepossessed with the same notion, undertook a voyage for
discoveries towards the north, was Sir Martin Forbisher. He discovered
Greenland, and in the latitude of 62 deg. north, passed a streight,
which, though it still holds a place in our maps, has never been found
navigable since. He made two other voyages, discovered many bays and
capes, to which he gave names, but returned without attaining the
principal object of his voyage, though, like his predecessor, he
asserted the certainty of its existence to his latest hour.
To him succeeded Sir Humphry Gilbert, who in 1583 traversed the coast of
Labradore, entered the mouth of the great river St. Laurence, and,
surrounding the island of Newfoundland, laid the foundation of the cod
fishery, which has been prosecuted with immense advantage to his country
ever since.
The rapid progress of discoveries in the southern hemisphere, which
about this time were attended with vast profit to the adventurers,
re-animated cotemporary navigators to prosecute, with more ardour than
ever, their enterprizes towards the north. The more the pacific ocean
became known, the firmer the belief prevailed, that a passage into it by
way of the north must certainly exist, and that whoever could discover
it, would not only immortalize his name, but enrich his country.
The merchants of that time were no less eager to embark their money,
than the navigators were to hazard their persons in any new project,
where the hope of gain appeared to be well founded. A company therefore
of wealthy persons in London agreed to join a company of merchants in
the west, and to fit out two ships for the discovery of a passage, which
all agreed was practicable, though none could tell readily where to find
it. To the command of this expedition Captain John Davis was strongly
recommended as an able navigator, and of a bold and enterprising spirit.
Accordingly, on the 7th of June, 1585, he set sail from Dartmouth, in
the Sunshine of fifty tons, and accompanied by the Moonshine of
thirty-five tons, having on board both vessels forty-two hardy seamen.
On the 19th of July they were alarmed by a mighty roaring, which was the
more terrible, as the fog was so thick, that they could not see each
other at a ship’s length. It proved only the crackling of the islands of
ice, which was not then very well understood. On the breaking up of the
fog they discovered land, which, from its horrid appearance, they named
_the land of desolation_. On the 24th they were in 64 deg. 15 min.
north, the sea open and the weather moderate. In this latitude they
discovered land, and conversed with the natives, who appeared to be a
harmless hospitable people, polite in their manners, neatly habited, and
not ill-favoured. These friendly people, observing that the English
admired their furs, went up in the country to bring down more, with
which they traded with much simplicity. To an adjoining hill Davis gave
the name of Mount Raleigh, from which he took his departure on the 8th
of August, and on the 11th doubled the southernmost cape in view, to
which he gave the name of the _Cape of God’s Mercy_, and entered a
streight, which bears the name of the Discoverer to this day. In this
streight he sailed sixty leagues, and on the 14th went on shore, and
found evident signs of human inhabitants, being met by a pack of dogs
(twenty in number) that expressed their joy, as if their masters had
been returned after an interval of absence. One of those had on a
leathern collar. The Captain was highly pleased with the promising
appearance of the new streights, and consulting with the master, agreed
to report, upon their return home, that they had found the wished-for
passage to the western sea.
The weather changing from temperate to excessive cold, on the 20th it
was resolved to set sail for England. On the 12th of September they fell
in with the land of Desolation, and on the 30th of the same month
entered the port of Dartmouth, without the loss of a man.
The account Captain Davis gave to his owners was so well received, that
other merchants were desirous of joining in a second expedition, and
accordingly he was again employed, and furnished with a much greater
force.
On the 7th of May he sailed from Dartmouth in the Mermaid, of 120 tons,
in company with the Sunshine and Moonshine as before, and an additional
pinnace of thirteen tons, called the North Star.
In the latitude of 60 degrees north Captain Davis divided his force,
ordering the Sunshine and North Star to seek a passage between Greenland
and Iceland, while the Mermaid and Moonshine continued their course to
the streight as before. In the latitude of 64 degrees, and longitude 58
deg. 30 min. north from London, they fell again in with the land, and
met the same people with whom they had traded the former year. Overjoyed
to meet, they renewed their acquaintance, and while the English was
preparing a pinnace to facilitate their discoveries, the natives came in
numbers to carry on trade. As soon as the pinnace was fitted for sea,
Captain Davis dispatched her to examine the inlets on the coast, and to
trace their course up the main land; but that was productive of no
essential discovery.
Though the natives attended them with an obsequious diligence, yet on
their kindling a fire in their manner, and using some strange
ceremonies, Captain Davis supposing them to be using idolatrous
sorceries, first thrust the priest into the smoke, and then encouraged
his men to tread out the flame, and to spurn the reeking coals into the
sea. Unable to bear the insult, the natives for the first time began to
shew resentment. They seized the boat from the stern of the Moonshine,
cut the cable belonging to the Mermaid, made prize of the implements
that lay upon the shore, and, in short, declared open hostilities
against the aggressors, who in return discharged their artillery among
them, which instantly dispersed them.
No civilities, however, that could be shewn them, after the indignity
offered to their priest, could ever after reconcile them, and the year
following they found an opportunity to take a severe revenge. In the
mean time one of them being made prisoner, was taken on board the
Mermaid; who, after recovering his fright, trimmed up his darts,
repaired his fishing tackle, picked okam, and set his hand to any thing
he was set about; and, after a time, became a very pleasant companion on
board.
On the 17th of July, in latitude 63 degrees 8 min. north, they fell in
with a continent of ice, very high, like land, with bays and capes, and,
till they examined it closely, could not be convinced that it was a mere
congelation. They coasted it till the 30th, when the weather became so
tempestuous and foggy, and withal so cold, that the shrouds, ropes, and
sails were frozen and glazed with ice; and the men, who the year before
found the sea open and the weather temperate, became so dispirited, that
in an orderly manner they addressed their Commander, and intreated him
to consider their present situation, to have regard to his own life, and
the preservation of theirs; and not, through boldness and an indiscreet
zeal for a hopeless discovery, leave their widows and fatherless
children to blacken his memory with bitter curses. Moved with their
pitiable representation, he discharged the Mermaid with those who were
most desirous of returning home, and proceeded in the Moonshine to
prosecute his voyage. Changing his course to recover the opposite shore
on the 1st of August, in latitude 66 deg. 33 min. north, and longitude
70 degrees west, he discovered land, without either ice or snow. On the
2d they cast anchor in a fine road, and in a day or two were visited by
the natives, who came to traffic. On the 14th they set sail to the
westward, and on the 16th changed their course to the southward. On the
18th they discovered a high promontory to the north-west, which having
no land to the south, recovered their hopes of a free passage.
On doubling the Cape, they found the land trending away to the south in
broken islands, and coasting along till they arrived at a fine opening,
in latitude 57 degrees, they sailed ten leagues, with woods and lawns on
each side, abounding with deer and game of every kind. Here they staid
till the 1st of September, and then set sail, coasting along to the
northward, where they were again flattered with the hopes of a passage,
by observing a strong current rushing in between two lands to the
westward, which they were very desirous of approaching, but the wind
blew directly against them.
On the 6th, returning to their former station, five of the crew fell
into an ambuscade; for having ventured on shore unarmed in their boat,
they were suddenly assaulted from the woods, two of them killed upon the
spot, two grievously wounded, and the fifth made his escape by swimming,
with an arrow sticking in his arm. The same evening a furious storm
arose, which lasted till the 10th, in which time they in a manner
unrigged their ship, and were about to cut away her masts by the board,
the cable of their sheet anchor parted, and they every moment expected
to be dashed upon the rocks, and to be made a prey by the savage
cannibals of the country; but the storm abating, and the sea growing
calm, they recovered their anchor on the 11th, and made sail for
England.
About the beginning of October they arrived at Dartmouth, where they
found the Sunshine, but the North Star having parted company in a hard
gale on the coast of Greenland, was never more heard of.
This undaunted mariner had yet the courage to undertake a third voyage,
and then sailed as far as the 73d degree of north latitude, but being
deserted by his companions, was forced to return in great distress to
his old port. Upon his return he wrote a letter to his patron, assuring
him, that he had found an open sea in latitude 73 degrees north, and a
streight forty leagues broad, and concluded from thence that the passage
was most certain.
From this period till the year 1610 we find no farther attempts made to
revive this discovery; but in that year Mr. Henry Hudson, one of the
most celebrated mariners of his time, was prevailed upon to undertake a
voyage that was purposely set on foot to make trial of his skill. He
sailed April the 7th, 1610, steering directly to Davis’s Streights, he
there changed his course to the westward, and struck out a new track
that no mariner had ever sailed before, which led him through the
streight that still bears his name into the great bay that bounds the
American continent on the north-east, and seems to communicate by
various openings with the north sea. Here he continued traversing for
almost three months in search of a passage to the westward, but finding
himself embayed, he stood to the south, intending to winter in the
mildest latitude the Bay would admit; accordingly, he is said to have
wintered in latitude 52 degrees north, longitude 80 degrees west, where
on the 1st of November his ship was frozen in, and being scantily
provided with provisions, the crew mutinied, and in the end most
barbarously contrived, as the writer expresses it, to turn the Captain,
the carpenter, and all the sick men out of the ship, who were never more
heard of. After which the leaders of the mutiny determined to make the
best of their way for England; but in their passage home not a few
perished, and those who survived suffered unspeakable misery.
But notwithstanding this disaster, and that it was certainly known that
the Captain and all who were left behind were either drowned, starved,
or murdered, the progress he had made in the discovery encouraged others
to follow his track.
The next who adventured was Captain Button, a man of great abilities,
courage, and experience. Patronized by Henry, Prince of Wales, he sailed
in 1611, and having passed Hudson’s Streights, pursued a different track
from that of Captain Hudson, leaving his discoveries to the south, and
shaping his course to the north-west.
After sailing more then two hundred leagues, he fell in with a large
continent, which, from its mountainous appearance, he named New Wales;
but finding no passage to the westward, he followed the direction of the
land to the southward, till he arrived at Port Nelson, where he wintered
in 63 deg. 30 min. north; but, though he kept three fires in his ship
constantly burning, and his company killed incredible numbers of white
partridges and other wild fowl, yet many of his men perished by the
severity of the cold, which in that climate was almost insupportable.
In 1615 Captain William Baffin undertook the examination of the
extremity of that sea into which Davis’s Streights opened a passage, and
he so far succeeded, as to determine its extent, and to discover an
outlet marked in our maps, by the name of Sir Thomas Smith’s Sound,
which is probably the only communication between our northern bays and
the great pacific ocean, which nature has provided, in order to maintain
a general circulation, without which it is hardly possible to conceive,
that the equipoise of the globe could for a moment be preserved.
In 1619 Captain John Munk, at the instance of his Danish Majesty,
undertook this discovery, and arrived safe at Cape Farewell, where,
though the tackle of the ship was so frozen and full of isicles, that
the mariners could not handle the ropes, yet next day it was so hot,
that they were forced to work in their shirts. He entered Hudson’s
Streight in the month of July, and was forced to winter in latitude 63
degrees 20 min. north, on an island that still retains his name; but the
hardships he endured almost exceed belief. In May, 1620, he found
himself alone in a cave dug in the earth, scarce alive, and almost
morally certain, that all his mariners were dead. As soon as the weather
would permit he crawled forth, and found, of all his crew, only two
left. By removing the snow, they found some fresh herbs underneath, and
by eating them, recovered from the scurvy. Unable to navigate their
ships, they abandoned her to the savages, and, by a wonderful
providence, got safe to Norway in the Pinnace. Being a man of uncommon
resolution, he was still sollicitous to perfect a discovery, which had
baffled the researches of so many able navigators, and to acquire glory,
by accomplishing that which they had failed to attain. He asserted the
existence of such a passage so confidently, and laid down the method of
finding it so plausibly, that he had persuaded the merchants of Norway
to raise a joint stock to defray the expences of a second voyage; but
applying to the King for his permission and protection, and relating to
him his own sufferings, and those of his companions in his former
voyage, his Majesty told him, he had already been the death of too many
of his subjects, and wondered at his presumption to seek to murder more.
To which Monk gave a quick reply, which provoked the King to strike him
over his stomach with his cane. Whether the severity of the blow, or the
sense of the indignity was the occasion, is not certain; but he quitted
the royal presence with marks of strong resentment, and returning to his
chamber, refused assistance, and three days after breathed his last.
Capt. Luke Fox and Capt. James were the next who professedly engaged in
this discovery; the first in a King’s frigate, victualled for eighteen
months; the other in a small vessel of seventy tons, built at Bristol on
purpose; victualled and equipped by private adventurers.
Captain Fox departed in the spring of 1631, traced all the western bays
discovered by former navigators, examined the westermost part of
Hudson’s Bay, and returned in 1632. He published a pompous account of
his discoveries, which, however, was never much regarded.
On the 3d of May, 1631, Captain James set sail from the Severn’s mouth,
and on the 29th of June cleared Hudson’s Streights, where he found
himself so pestered with broken ice, as to put it out of his power to
prosecute his discoveries to the north-westward, as he had intended; he
therefore ordered his master to steer west south-west, and on the 27th
of July, after sustaining most dreadful shocks, found his ship enclosed
so fast among the ice, that notwithstanding it blew a hard gale, and all
sails set, she stirred no more than if she had been in a dry dock. It
was now that the men first began to murmur, and the Captain himself was
not without his fears, lest they should here be frozen up and obliged to
winter in the middle of the sea. By an observation which they made upon
the ice, they found that they were in latitude 58 deg. 54 min. north.
On the 5th of next month to their great joy the ice opened, and on the
6th they were again in a clear sea. On the 13th, seeing some breakers
a-head, and looffing to clear them, the ship suddenly struck upon the
rocks, and received three dreadful shocks, but the swell heaved her
over, and on pumping she made no water.
They were now encumbered with rocks, as before they had been with ice,
and in the most perilous situation that can be conceived, and so
continued two nights and two days, every moment expecting to be dashed
to pieces. On the fog’s clearing up they saw land from the north-west to
the south-east by east, with rocks and breakers. On the 16th they
weighed and made sail, when a storm arose and drove them within sight of
Port Nelson. On the 17th they stood to the southward. On the 20th they
made land, in latitude 57 degrees north, where they cast anchor, call’d
it the Principality of South Wales.
Having weighed, on the 27th they set sail, and in the evening came in
sight of higher land.
On the 29th they saw a sail, which proved to be Captain Fox, already
mentioned. They spoke together, and, after exchanging mutual civilities,
parted.
Captain James kept coasting along the shore to make discoveries, and
Captain Fox made the best of his way for England.
The Captain now began to think of a convenient place to winter in. In
this attempt they met with so many disasters, that at last having no
hope left, they began to prepare themselves to make a good end of a
miserable life. On the 19th they lost their shallop, tho’ lashed to the
ship by two hawsers, and to their inexpressible grief their boat was
almost rendered irreparable.
Winter now began to set in a-pace, the nights long, the days close and
foggy, the seas rough, and nothing but shoals and broken land to
navigate. Added to all these the men began to sicken, an universal
dejection to prevail, and in proportion as their distresses increased,
their strength to bear up against them grew less every day.
On the 4th of November, being in latitude 52 degrees north, they fell in
with an island, from which they found it impossible to depart. The men
were quite worn down with fatigue, the sails so frozen as not to be
unfurled, the ropes congealed in the blocks, and the deck knee-deep in
snow. In this forlorn condition they built a tent on shore for the sick,
and in this tent they kept fires continually burning night and day, but
the cold increased so fast, that beer, and even spirits, froze by the
fire-side.
The sufferings of the Captain and crew from the latter end of October
when they landed, till the 2d of July, when they departed, are hardly to
be parelleled.
This was the last voyage that was undertaken for the discovery of a
north-west passage, till that of Captain Middleton, already related.
From all which, and the opinion of Captain James after his return, there
is great reason to conclude, that what we have said of a north-east
passage is likewise true of a passage by the north-west, that it most
certainly exists, but will never be found practicable for mercantile
purposes.
FINIS.
Transcriber’s notes
New original cover art included with this ebook is granted to the public
domain.
The illustrations have been moved to appropriate paragraph breaks.
The original text used the long s. This has been changed to the regular
s.
The page numbers in the original jump from 272 to 281. There is no text
missing.
On supplement page 101 the longitude number is missing in the original.
On supplement page 108 the year in which Captain John Davis set sail
from Dartmouth has been corrected from 1685 to 1585.
Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
Archaic and inconsistent spelling and hyphenation have been retained
except for:
(Ship named) Moon-shine or Moonshine, regularised to Moonshine.
(Ship named) Sun-shine or Sunshine, regularised to Sunshine.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF ALL THE VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD, PERFORMED BY ENGLISH NAVIGATORS, VOL. 4 OF 4 ***
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