The Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Tie Flies, by E. C. Gregg
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
Title: How to Tie Flies
Author: E. C. Gregg
Release Date: October 20, 2009 [EBook #30292]
Language: English
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO TIE FLIES ***
Produced by Hugh T. Mitten
[Transcriber's Note: This transcription attempts to follow page
numbering and capitalization as closely as possible. Occasionally,
a paragraph spans more than one page with one or more full page
sized illustrations between the pages, thus splitting the paragraph.
This required adjustment to the numbering of some pages.
The listing of the Barns Sports Library has been relocated to the
end of the book in order to improve continuity.
The table of "Standard Dressings Of 334 Flies" actually has only
319 dressings.]
HOW TO TIE FLIES
HOW
TO TIE
FLIES
BY
E. C. GREGG
DRAWINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS
BY THE AUTHOR
A. S. BARNES AND COMPANY
NEW YORK
Copyright, 1940, A. S. Barnes & Company. Inc
THIS BOOK IS FULLY PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT AND NOTHING THAT APPEARS IN
IT MAY BE REPRINTED OR REPRODUCED IN ANY MANNER, EITHER WHOLLY OR IN
PART, FOR ANY USE WHATEVER, WITHOUT SPECIAL WRITTEN PERMISSION BY THE
COPYRIGHT OWNER
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION vii
TOOLS, HOOKS AND MATERIALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Tools--Fly-Tier's Vise Hackle Pliers, scissors,
Hooks
Materials--Quill Bodies, Herl Bodies, Hackles,
Tails, Cheeks or Shoulders, Ribbing,
Wings, Tying Silk
BUCKTAIL STREAMERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
WET FLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
DRY FLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
NYMPHS and Their Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Nymphs: Their Construction
The Helgramite
BASS FLIES AND FEATHER STREAMERS . . . . . . . . . . 42
FAMOUS BUCKTAIL AND FEATHER STREAMERS . . . . . . . . 47
FLOATING BUGS and Their Construction . . . . . . . . 49
Cork Bodied Bass Bugs
ANGLER'S KNOTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
MY FAVORITE FLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
STANDARD DRESSINGS OF 334 FLIES . . . . . . . . . . . 69
{vi}
[Illustration: Diagram 1. Page sized drawing of parts of a fly.]
{vii}
INTRODUCTION
The object of this book will be throughout its entirety to teach in a
practical manner the art of Fly Tying in all its branches. The
principles used herein, and the methods of construction employed, are
those used by the professional fly-tier who practices fly-making for the
sake of art, and tries to achieve with each finished fly, a masterpiece.
None of the short-cuts employed by those whose business is quantity
production will be attempted. Only the making of flies of the very
highest quality and most durable construction will be attempted.
In describing the principals of construction with the following
illustrations, it will be impossible to describe in detail each
standard pattern; however, it must be remembered that the fundamentals
applying to each style of fly will be the principal bases of
construction of all flies of that style, and that the use of different
body materials, hackles, wings or size will simply change the pattern
and not the fundamental points of construction.
Dressings for hundreds of standard patterns will be found fully
described elsewhere in this book. For clearness {viii} of understanding
please note that where a fly is described in this book as having grey
wings, or red body, etc., and no particular feather or material is
specified, it means that any feather or body material may be used. When
a particular feather, body, hackle, tail, etc., must be used it will be
so stated.
Each year a steadily increasing number of anglers are learning to tie
their own flies. Not many years ago, there were few in America outside
of professional tiers who understood the art. Now on each angling trip,
at least one is sure to be met, who has discovered the great thrill of
taking fish on flies of his own tying.
To those who are anticipating the making of their own flies for the
first time, there is the opportunity to exercise one's ingenuity in the
creation of new patterns. To prolong your fishing seasons throughout the
long winter evenings, in the confines of your own den, where, with a
supply of fur, feathers and tinsel, can be enjoyed a profitable,
artistic and pleasant hobby. And the thrill of seeing in each finished
imitation of Ephemeridae, Muscidae and Formicidae, a masterpiece to
bring the joy of living and dreams of spring to the angler's heart.
Beginners are requested to reject any inclination to skip over the
first part of this book, nor to attempt the tying of the more delicate
and difficult dry flies before they have had sufficient preliminary
training. {ix} This book is so written that the easier flies to make are
the first encountered. Although you may not expect to use Bucktail
Streamers, the fundamental principles employed in their construction,
the knack of handling fur, feathers and tinsel, will be acquired, and a
sense of proportion will be realized. I sincerely encourage you to begin
at the beginning, and by careful and patient study the satisfactory
result will be the ability to make flies that are second to none.
The illustrations in this book are all drawn to correct proportions
except the tying silk, which is purposely drawn large for clearness
of illustration. Follow these illustrations, and begin by making a
very careful study of Diagram 3, "Bucktails" (page 15). Here will
be learned how to overcome some of the difficulties encountered by
beginners. Many of the fundamentals learned in tying Bucktails are
used in tying all of the flies to follow. For instance, in putting
the wings or tail on a wet fly, the same method of holding the wing
between the thumb and finger and making the loose loop, are explained
as when putting the hair or tail on a Bucktail. Putting the wings on
a fly correctly seems to be the greatest difficulty encountered by
the beginner. Consequently, the necessity of carefully studying
Figs. 4, 5, 10, and 11 of Diagram 3 cannot be too greatly emphasized.
Before tying any other part of the fly, place a bare hook in the
vise, and practice tying on the tail, {x} and then the wings, until you
have mastered this knack, and have the wings and tail setting straight
on top of the hook, as in Figs. 4, 5, 10 and 11 of Diagram 3. First
using hair and then a section of feather.
Other faults of the beginner where literal descriptions are followed
entirely or where illustrations are not drawn to correct proportions or
followed closely are as follows. The wings are usually too large, and
much too long for the size of the hook, and the tail is most always too
long, as are the hackles. The bodies seldom have a nicely tapered shape,
and most always start too far back on the hook shank. The ribbing is
seldom put on in even tight spirals. The hair on hair flies is always
too long, and too much is used. The head is too large, because the tying
silk is not wound tightly and smoothly. The eye of the hook on the
finished fly is filled with hair, tying silk, hackles and cement.
I do not mean to criticize these common mistakes of the beginner.
Instead, I merely wish to call them to your mind, and assure you that
they are not necessary, and will not happen if you will diligently
follow instructions in this book.
{xi}
[Illustration: Diagram 2. Page sized drawings of wet flies and feathers.]
{xii}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of tools.]
{1}
TOOLS, HOOKS AND
MATERIALS
Very few tools are required by the Fly-Tier. Those that are necessary
are inexpensive, and most of them can be homemade. However, as with any
other craft good tools are an asset. I advise the beginner to procure
the following:
TOOLS
Fly-Tiers' vise. There are many styles of fly-tying vises on the market.
The simplest is just a slot cut in a 3/8" piece of square steel with a
hacksaw, and a thumb screw to tighten the slot. This type of vise will
work all right, although rather clumsy and hard to tighten enough to
hold the hook truly. Another simple vise is just a small pin chuck,
soldered to one end of a 1/4" brass rod, bent at the desired angle, and
the other end of the rod soldered to a small C clamp. However, I prefer
a vise of the cam lever type. That is, a vise that has a cam lever for
opening and closing the jaws. These vises, of which there are
several makes, are {2} adjustable to various angles and hook sizes. They
will hold all sizes of hooks very firmly, and are easily and quickly
opened with a flip of the lever.
Hackle Pliers. These can be purchased for about fifty cents and will
prove a worthwhile investment, as they are rather difficult to make
satisfactorily.
Scissors. One pair with curved blades and sharp points for small flies
and one pair with small straight blades. A needle pushed into a stick,
for picking out hackles that are wound under, and for putting lacquer on
the finished head, completes the list of necessary tools.
HOOKS
Hooks used for fly-tying differ somewhat from those used for bait
fishing etc., inasmuch as they are usually hollow ground, and tapered
shank especially those used for dry flies. The tapered shank next to the
eye allows the head of the fly to be tied smaller, and also reduces the
weight of the hook, an advantage for dry flies. Of course flies may be
tied on any style or grade of hook, but considering the work involved in
making the fly, and realizing that with an old razor blade the fly can
be quickly removed from the hook should the first attempts prove
unsatisfactory, you will see the advantage in using good hooks.
{3}
[Illustration: Page sized diagram showing drawings of hooks.]
{4}
MATERIALS
Materials used by the Fly-Tier cover an extremely large field. Although
only a few simple and easily obtained items are necessary for a start,
it is interesting to know that furs, feathers and body materials come
from all parts of the world. There's the jungle cock from India whose
neck feathers are extensively used on salmon flies and a very large
percentage of all fancy flies. The golden pheasant from China, the
bustard from Africa, the Mandarin wood duck from China, the capercailzie
from Ireland, the game cocks from Spain and the Orient, the teal,
mallard, grouse, ibis, swan, turkey, and hundreds of others. The polar
bear, Impala, North and South American deer, seal, black bear, skunk,
rabbit, squirrel, are a few of the hairs that are used. The beginner
need not worry about the great variety. Some hooks, silk floss and spun
fur or wool yarn and chenille for bodies, a few sizes of tinsel for
ribbing, bucktails of three or four colors, an assortment of duck and
turkey wing quills some mallard breast, an assortment of neck and saddle
hackles, a spool of tying silk, a piece of wax, a bottle of head
lacquer, and many of the popular patterns can be made. Numerous other
items can be added from time to time, and the novice Fly-Tier will soon
find himself in possession of a collection of fuzzy furs and feathers
that will delight the heart of any professional, and from which any
conceivable lure can be made to attract the denizens of the shady pools.
{5}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of body materials.]
{6}
BODY MATERIAL: Tinsel, Silk Floss, Fur, Chenille, Wool, Quill
and Cork are used for bodies. The most commonly used for Bucktail
Streamers is flat tinsel ribbed with oval tinsel or no ribbing at all.
About the easiest body to make is one of chenille ribbed with tinsel.
Silk floss is mostly used for wet and dry fly bodies. The domestic silk
floss, which is called rope, can be successfully used for the larger
flies, by untwisting and using a few of the smaller strands. An imported
floss of one single strand, with a very slight twist, is especially made
for fly-tying; this will work much better on the smaller hooks. Fur for
fur bodies, which formerly had to be plucked from the hide, dyed the
desired color, and spun on the waxed tying silk, can now be obtained in
all standard fly colors. It is called Spun Fur, and is very convenient
to use in this manner.
QUILL BODIES: Quill makes an excellent and very lifelike body,
especially on dry flies. The quill from the eyed peacock tail feather is
mostly used. That taken from the eye of the feather when stripped of its
fibers has a two tone effect, and when wound upon the hook without
overlapping makes a very lifelike and delicate appearing body.
{7}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.]
{8}
HERL BODIES: Both peacock and ostrich herl is used for bodies.
These make a fuzzy body. Tie in one or two strands by the tip end and
wind on edgewise.
HACKLES: These are the most important part of the dry fly. Only those
from the neck of a mature cock are satisfactory. Hackles for the dry fly
must be stiff with very little or no web. With such hackles a dry fly
can be sparsely dressed as it should be and still maintain its natural
balance and floating qualities. On the other hand, a wet fly should
sink readily, and should be made with very soft webby hackles. These
absorb water quickly, and have better action in the water. Contrary to
the customary way to tie hackles on the wet fly, as explained in the
chapter "Wet Flies", I find it very convenient and economical to strip
the fibers from any size hackle, clip off the butt ends to the desired
length and tie them on the bottom of the hook, the same as buck tail is
tied on. As wet flies should have hackles only on the bottom or
underneath side, many hackles that are otherwise too large can be used
in this way.
TAILS: A few fibers from a golden or silver pheasant neck tippet, whisks
from a hackle feather, a strip of wing or breast feather, a few hairs,
etc., are used for tails. Many of the standard patterns are tied without
tails; however, on all of my dry flies, I tie three or four stiff fibers
or hairs. They balance the fly and help it to float much better.
{9}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.]
{10}
CHEEKS OR SHOULDERS: As per Fig. 9, Diagram 1, these are used on a
great many of the fancy flies. These are straps of one or several
feathers of contrasting colors. Jungle cock feathers, golden pheasant
tippets, silver pheasant body feathers, as on the Grey Ghost streamer
fly, blue chatterer, and many other fancy feathers according to pattern
and fancy are used for this purpose. A pair of jungle cock tippets often
called eyes, added to a Bucktail Streamer will often take trout, when
the same pattern without the jungle cock will not.
RIBBING: Tinsel, Wool, Silk, Horse Hair, Quill, etc., are used for
ribbing. The tinsel from your Xmas tree will do, but it is much better
to use tinsel made for the purpose, as it will not tarnish so
quickly and is much stronger. It is advisable before using tinsel to
place a drop of good, clear head lacquer between the thumb and finger
and draw the tinsel through it. This makes it tarnish-proof, and is
particularly advisable with the oval and round tinsel that is wound
over a silk core. Besides tarnish-proofing it, it will keep the tinsel
from coming apart. Tinsel bodies should be lacquered after they are
finished.
{11}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.]
WINGS: Several styles of wings are used, see Diagram 2, page xi, those
on Fig. 1, and are cut from a pair of matched wing quill feathers, like
Fig. 7. Those in Fig. 2 are buzz wings taken from a pair of breast
feathers {12} (mallard, wood duck, etc.) shown in Fig. 8. Fig. 3 shows
hackle tip wings, tips of two hackle feathers, see Fig. 9. Fan wings,
Fig. 4, are a matched pair of small breast feathers, see Fig. 10 (white
duck, mallard, teal, grouse, etc.). In fact there is hardly a bird that
flies that does not supply some of its plumage to the Fly-Tier. Flies
of the order Diptera (land flies), such as the Bee, Cowdung, Blue Bottle,
etc., should be tied with flat wings as in Fig. 5. A Bi-visible is shown
in Fig. 6. This is a fly without wings, hackle tied palmer (that is hackle
wound the full length of the hook, usually tied without a body, and the
dark patterns have a turn or two of white hackle in front).
All of the flies on Diagram 2 are shown as dry flies; however, the same
feathers are used for wet flies, streamers, etc., the difference being
the style in which they are tied, which is explained elsewhere.
WAX: Use a good grade of wax for fly-tying. The proper wax will work
much better than shoemaker's wax or beeswax. Wax for fly-tying should be
quite sticky so that when the waxed tying silk is let go of, it will not
unwind while tying the fly.
{13}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.]
TYING SILK: Ordinary sewing silk is too coarse for ordinary fly-tying
and it doesn't seem to have the strength. Size 00 is a good size for all
flies including bucktails and streamers. For dry flies and small wet
flies a gossamer silk size 000 and 0000 is the best to {14} use.
Although the strength of this fine silk is much less than the size 00,
it has the advantage that more turns can be used, and the heads can be
made much smaller.
{15}
BUCKTAIL STREAMERS
{16}
[Illustration: Diagram 3. Page sized diagram showing drawings of bucktail
construction.]
Place a hook in the vise and start waxed tying silk (See Diagram 3, page
15) (A) 1/8" from eye of hook Fig. 1. Take five or six turns and cut off
end (B) Fig. 2. Wind tying silk (A) closely and smoothly down hook shank
as Fig 3. (A complete understanding of the next step will have a great
deal to do with the success of the beginner's greatest difficulty, that
is, putting on the wings; the procedure is the same for all flies, study
Fig. 4.) Hold tail material (C) between thumb and finger of the left
hand, slide the fingers down over the hook, so that the tail material
rests on top of the hook, with the hook held firmly between thumb and
finger as Fig. 4. Now loosen grip just enough to allow tying silk (A) to
pass up between thumb and tail material, form a loose loop over
material, and down, between finger and material on the other side. Now
tighten grip with thumb and finger and pull loop down tight; repeat once
more, see Fig. 5. (This knack of holding the material and hook firmly
together, until the loose loop is drawn down tightly keeps the tail, or
wings, on top of the {17} hook, and at the same time keeps them from
splitting or turning sidewise.) Now that the tail is in place, with two
turns of the tying silk (A) tie in ribbing (D) Fig. 6. Now take six or
eight close tight turns with the tying silk towards the eye of the hook,
with two more turns tie in the body material (E) Fig. 7. IF USING TINSEL
FOR BODY MATERIAL, BE SURE AND CUT THE END TO A TAPER BEFORE TYING IN as
(E) Fig. 7; this tends to make a smoother body and prevents a bunch
where the body material is tied in. Next wind tying silk (A) back to the
starting point, take a half hitch and let it hang. Now wind body
material (E) clockwise (all windings are clockwise) tightly and smoothly
back towards the barb, to the extreme rear end of the body, pull tight
and wind forward to within 1/8" of the eye, wind back and forth to form
smooth tapered body as Fig. 8 (tinsel bodies are not tapered). (If
using silk floss, untwist the floss and use only one half or one third
of the strands, do not let it twist, wind tight, and it will make a nice
smooth body.) Take two turns and a half hatch with the tying silk, and
cut off end of the material (F) Fig. 8. Take one tight turn with ribbing
(D) over butt of tail close to rear end of the body, also one turn
under the tail if tail is to be cocked. Wind ribbing spirally around the
body and tie off with two turns and a half hitch of tying silk as Fig.
9.
{18}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of bucktail streamers tied by the
author.]
{19}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of bucktails.]
{20}
Take about three dozen hairs of colored bucktail, cut off butt ends to
the length wanted for the finished fly, not more than one half again as
long as the hook, place these on top of the hook as Fig. 10 with butt
ends about 1/16" back of the eye (this is held the same as when putting
on the tail, Fig. 4). Pull down two or three loops, Fig. 11. Now take
about 175 hairs of other colored bucktail, place this on top of the
first colored bucktail the same as Fig. 10. Repeat the same operation
as Fig. 11. Before finishing the head put a drop of head lacquer on the
butt ends of the hairs to cement them in place, finish by making a
smooth tapered head with the tying silk, take three or four half
hitches, paint the head with two or three coats of lacquer and the job
is complete, unless you wish to add jungle cock cheeks, or other
combinations of feathers. This of course is done before the head is
completed.
{21}
[Illustration: Diagram 4. Page sized diagram showing drawings of wet
flys.]
{22}
WET FLIES
Start the waxed tying silk (See Diagram 4, page 21) 1/8" from eye of
hook, Fig. 1. Wind tying silk (A) down shank of hook, and with last two
turns tie in tag material (B) Fig. 2. Tags (see diagram 1) usually
represent the egg sac on the female of the species. Chenille, wool,
gold, silver, silk, herl, or various other materials are used for tags.
(Ribbing, if used, is tied in just before the tag material.) Tie in tail
(C) Fig. 3 (see Fig. 4 Bucktail, Diagram 3, page 15, for directions, how
to hold the tail. Take from one to four turns with the Tag Material (B)
around the hook, take a couple of turns with tying silk (A) around the
loose end of (B) and cut off (B) as Fig. 4. Take about three or four
turns towards the eye of the hook with (A), with two more turns tie in
the body material (D) Fig. 4. Wind (A) back to the starting point, take
a half hitch and let hang. Wind body material (D) to where (A) was left
hanging. Wind (D) back and forth several times to form a tapered body,
fasten with two or three turns and a half hitch with (A) Fig. 5. Next
take hackle (E), and strip off soft web fibers on dotted line, Fig. E.
Hold hackle {23} (E) by the tip with thumb and finger of the left hand,
with the shiny side of the hackle to the right, place the butt
diagonally under the hook and take four or five tight turns and a half
hitch with (A) Fig. 6. Be sure that the hackle is tied on edgewise with
the shiny side to the front. Now grasp the tip of the hackle with the
hackle pliers and wind four or five turns clockwise around the hook. If
the hackle starts winding edgewise it will go on without any trouble, if
not better take it off and try again until you get the knack of tying
the butt in at just the right angle. Take three or four turns over the
hackle tip with (A) and clip off the tip close as Fig. 7. With the thumb
and finger of the left hand, reach from under the hook and pull all the
fibers down to the bottom, take three or four turns over them with (A)
towards the barb of the hook, to hold them in place, and to keep them
pointing well back, as Fig. 8. Next take a pair of matched (one right
and one left) turkey, goose, or other wing feathers, Fig. A, and cut a
section from each about 1/4" wide, place the two sections with tips even
and concave sides together as Fig. B. Cut off the butt ends to the right
length, that is so that the tips come even, or a little beyond the bend
of the hook. Place on top of hook as Fig. 9 and tie on the same as
previously explained in tying hair on Bucktails (Diagram 3, page 15,
Figs. 4 and 10). Finish off with a smooth tapered head, two or
three half hitches {24} and a couple of coats of good head lacquer,
Fig. 10. Many patterns are tied palmer, that is the hackle is wound the
whole length of the body. Many of the dry flies are tied this way,
especially the Bi-visibles. To tie a palmer hackle, prepare the hackle
by holding the tip of the hackle between the thumb and finger of the left
hand, and with the thumb and finger of the right hand, stroke the fibers
back so that they point towards the butt, instead of towards the tip, Fig.
C, Diagram 4. With the shiny side of the hackle up, strip off the fibers
from the bottom side as Fig. D. Now tie the hackle in by the tip as
Fig. 11. Make the body the same as before. Wind the hackle spirally around
the body and tie off the butt, Fig. 12. To make the hackle more full near
the head, one or more hackles are tied in at the same time as Figs. 6
and 7, the palmer hackle is wound to within 1/8" of the eye and the butt
tied in and cut off the same as the tip was cut off Fig. 7.
{25}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of wet flies tied by the author.]
{26}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.]
{27}
DRY FLIES
Start winding waxed tying silk (See Diagram 5, page 28) (A) about 1/8"
from the eye of the hook, take three or four turns towards the bend of
the hook and cut off end, Fig. 1, Diagram 5. Cut a section about 1/4"
wide from a right and one from a left wing feather, as Fig. A Diagram 4,
page 21 (duck wings are best for dry flies). Place convex sides together
(just the reverse of Fig. B, Diagram 4). Do not cut off the butt ends,
instead straddle the hook as Fig. 2, Diagram 5. Hold between the thumb
and finger of the left hand as already explained in Figs. 4 and 10,
Diagram 3, page 15. Tip the wings (B) forward so that they stand about
perpendicular to the shank, and pull down loop, Fig. 3, as explained in
Diagram 3, Fig. 4. Take one more turn with (A) around the wings (B) in
front as Fig. 4 and before loosening the grip with the left hand take
two turns around the hook close in back of the wings (B), Fig. 5. Next
pull the butt ends back tightly as Fig. 6, take two tight turns around
them with (A) and cut off on dotted line as Fig. 6. Cross (A) between
wings (B) to spread them, and wind tying silk (A) down shank of the hook
as Fig. 7.
{28}
[Illustration: Diagram 5. Page sized diagram showing drawings of dry fly
construction.]
{29}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of Fan Wings, Dry Flies, and Nymphs
tied by the author.]
{30}
From now on the body is made as previously explained, so for the sake of
variation we will tie a band in the centre, the same as a Royal
Coachman. Tie in tail (C) Fig. 8. Tie in two or three strands of peacock
herl (D) Fig. 9 with (A) and wind (A) four or five turns towards the eye
of the hook. Take three or four turns with herl (D). Tie in two strands
of silk floss (E) Fig. 10, take a few more turns with (A) over the loose
ends of (D) towards the eye of the hook. Wind silk floss (E) over the
herl about half way up the hook. Take a turn or two around silk floss
(E) with (A) and cut off end of (E) as Fig. 11. Carry (A) up to the
front of the wings. Finish body with herl (D) wound tight against the
back of the wings. (This helps to push the wings forward and to hold
them in place.) Tie off herl (D) with (A) Fig. 12. The next step of
putting on the hackle (F) is done the same as Fig. 6, Diagram 4, page
21. But here the hackle is much more important than on the wet fly. The
floating qualities of a dry fly depend entirely upon stiff neck hackle
of the proper size. (Use Hackle Chart.) Sometimes two hackles are used,
these are laid together, and both butts tied in at the same time. One
hackle of the proper size and stiffness is usually enough, so we will
use one tied in as Fig. 13 and explained in Fig. 6, Diagram 4, page
21. Clip the hackle pliers to the tip of hackle (F) and wind
about two turns edgewise in front of the wings, wind two turns close
{31} in back of the wings. Take two or three more turns in front of the
wings, all the while keeping the hackle edgewise, with the shiny side
towards the eye of the hook. Wind the hackle close so as not to fill up
the eye of the hook and to leave room for the head. Tie in the tip with
a couple of turns of (A) Fig. 14. The hackle should now be standing
straight out from the hook, with the most of it in front of the wings.
Shape a tapered head with (A). (Head should be about 1/16" long on a
size 12 hook.) Finish with two or three half hitches and a drop
of head lacquer, Fig. 15.
Various feathers are used for wings of dry flies, such as breast
feathers from mallard, teal; partridge, grouse, black duck, wood duck.
Hackle tips, starling, duck, turkey, goose, pheasant, wing feathers,
etc.
Two whole feathers of the proper size, with the natural curve are used
for fan wings. The tips of two feathers, or a section may be cut from
two matched feathers. All of these wings are tied on in the same manner
as previously explained. See Diagram 2 for flies tied with different
style wings.
[Illustration: Drawing of hackle size chart at bottom of page.]
{32}
NYMPHS AND THEIR
CONSTRUCTION
NYMPHS
Nymphs are larvae of all aquatic insects. Together with minnows,
crawfish, etc., they represent about ninety per cent of the trout's
regular diet. Considering this fact, it is obvious that nymphs will take
trout throughout the entire season. It will greatly surprise the novice
to learn of the great amount of underwater insect life present in any
stream. Next time you go fishing, hold your landing net close to the
bottom, in a foot or so of fast water. Reach upstream and loosen the
stones and gravel. Raise your landing net, and notice the numerous
nymphs that have been washed from under the stones, and have attached
themselves to your net. Better still, make a screen about two feet
square, from regular 14 mesh window screening. Hold this in the water,
and have your fishing partner go upstream, and with a regular garden
rake, or some such tool, rake up the bottom, turning over the stones and
gravel. This way you can capture many nymphs. Put them in glass
bottles, take them home, and make copies of them. When next you {33} go
fishing open the first trout you catch, examine the contents of its
stomach, and determine which of the copies you have made is the proper
nymph or fly for the occasion. To fish with an imitation of the fly or
nymph upon which they are feeding, will result in a heavier creel.
When nymph fishing it is important to use a long, finely tapered leader.
A 4x is about right. Fish in the same waters, and very much the same way
as with a dry fly except that the nymph is allowed to sink. Fish
upstream, or up and across the current. In the ripples. Around boulders.
At the edge of fast water. Let the nymph drift with the current. Follow
it with your rod tip, and be prepared to set the hook at the least
hesitation of the line. Trout will sometimes take a drifting nymph and
eject it, without being felt on the most delicate rod, so be ever on the
alert when nymph fishing. A nymph fished down stream, and retrieved with
slow, short jerks, will often work very well. When fished in this
manner, trout will strike quite hard, and usually hook themselves.
There are times when trout are rolling on the surface and it seems
impossible to take them on anything. It is then that they are usually
feeding on nymphs, just under the surface. I remember one such time on
the Housatonic River in Connecticut last summer. Just at dark, I was
standing knee deep in very fast water. Trout {34} were breaking all
around me. I knew, they were feeding on nymphs, and tried in every way
to catch them. The water was so fast, it was impossible to keep the
nymph just the right depth below the surface. I tried every trick that
I knew, but could not get a strike. Finally reaching my hand in my
pocket, I discovered several large buckshot. Removing the nymph from the
tip of the leader, I attached five of these large shots, to the very tip
of the leader, with a piece of 3x gut tippet about four inches long. I
connected the nymph to the leader about sixteen inches from the tip.
Within the next few minutes I took several nice trout, within rod's
length of where I was standing. What actually happened, the lead was so
heavy that it immediately sank straight to the bottom, and my taut line
held the nymph suspended about two inches below the surface. The short
gut between the nymph and the leader allowed the nymph to quiver much as
the natural was doing. All the various common nymphs can be faithfully
copied, by learning to tie the various styles of those herein
illustrated. Simply alter the sizes, and color combinations, according
to those found in the waters where you fish.
Remember nearly all the nymphs have flat bodies, and dark backs. The
bodies may be flattened by thoroughly lacquering them, and when nearly
dried squeezing them flat with an ordinary pair of pliers; or by {35}
cutting a piece of quill the shape of the body from a turkey or goose
wing. Bind this on top of the hook for the foundation of the body, and
build the body over this. When finished, lacquer the entire body.
Most any body materials that are used for the making of other flies can
be used; however, wool is mostly used for nymphs. Silk floss wound over
a quill foundation and then lacquered, makes a very smooth, realistic
body.
{36}
[Illustration: Diagram 6. Page sized diagram showing drawings of nymph
construction.]
THEIR CONSTRUCTION
(SEE DIAGRAM 6)
Start tying silk (A) an eighth of an inch from the eye of the hook and
wind closely down shank, as previously done with bucktails, wet flies
etc. Next cut a section (B) from a grey goose wing feather about one
eighth inch wide, and tie on top of the hook as Fig. 1. This is to make
the tail and also the back of the nymph. Bend (B) back and take a turn
or two with (A) in front as Fig. 2. Tie in the ribbing (c) close to (B)
Fig. 3. Next tie in body material (D) close to (C) Fig. 4. Wool yarn
makes the best body material for this style nymph. Now finish the body
as for a wet fly, Fig. 5, then pull (B) tightly over the top, finish off
as Fig. 6. This makes a sort of hard shell over the back. Next turn the
hook upside down in the vise, and lay {37} three horse hairs across, just
in back of where the head is to be made, crisscross (A) between the hairs
to spread them and make them look like legs, and your nymph should look
like Fig. 7. Nymphs of this style as well as Figs. 8, 9, 10, 14 and 15
look more natural if the bodies are flattened. Fig. 8 is tied nearly the
same as Fig. 7, the difference being that (C) and (D) are both wound
over (B) about two-thirds of the length of the body, then (B) is turned
back, the body finished as before, (B) brought forward loosely to form
the humpbacked wing case, and (B) being cut off as was done with Fig. 6,
and instead of the butt end of (B) being cut off as was done with Fig.
6 it is split by crisscrossing (A) through it to form small wings as
Fig. 8. Fig. 9 is made in the same way except that several strands of
peacock herl is used for the dark back, tail, and feelers.
Fig. 10 is a very effective nymph, the body made entirely of natural
raffia (soaked in water before using), with black hair used for the tail
and feelers The body coated with lacquer as before mentioned and pressed
flat when dry; paint the back with dark brown or black lacquer.
Fig. 11 is made by close wound palmer hackle cut off on dotted
lines. Fig. 12 is a fur body, made by spinning rabbit's fur or
other fur on waxed tying silk and ribbing with gold; the tougher
this nymph looks the more effective it seems to be. Fig. 13, the
Caddis {38} worm can be more naturally reproduced with a common rubber
band than any other way I know. Get a dirty, white, rubber band
about 1/8" wide, taper one end for about 1/2". Lay two horse hairs
lengthwise on top of the hook for the feelers, wind tying silk over them
down the hook, tie in the rubber band by the very tip of the taper, wind
the tying silk back to the starting point, and be sure that the tying
silk is wound smoothly. If not, any roughness will show through the
rubber band. Wind the rubber band tightly to about 1/4" back of the eye.
Wind back down and take one turn under the horsehair at the tail end,
wind up to the head and tie off with the tying silk. This now makes
three thicknesses of the rubber band. Form a large head with the tying
silk, fasten securely and you have a very realistic Caddis worm. Fig. 14
is tied about the same as Fig. 7, with a considerable amount of speckled
mallard, and peacock herl used for both the front and back feelers as
well as the legs.
Fig. 15. The Damsel Nymph has a body of dark grey wool with a back of
dark brown or black lacquer. Wings, small red-brown wood duck breast
feathers, feelers dark brown hackle, and a large black head.
{39}
THE HELGRAMITE
(SEE DIAGRAM 7)
The Helgramite Nymph, larva of the Dobson Fly, is such an excellent bass
and trout food, that the making of this nymph deserves special mention.
As my personal way of making this particular nymph differs considerably
from those previously explained, I consider it advisable to go into
further details concerning the construction of this pattern.
I personally like the winged style. That is, with small imitation wings
and horns, or feelers. This represents the nymph in its final underwater
stage, just before emerging from the water as the Dobson Fly. I find
black skunk tail the most satisfactory material for the body of this
nymph. Either light grey swan sides, or light grey pigeon breast
feathers for the wing and legs.
{40}
[Illustration: Diagram 7. Page sized diagram showing drawings of
helgramite construction.]
First wind the waxed tying silk up the shank of the hook beginning
opposite the barb. Clip the fibers closely from a couple of hackle
feathers. These are to form the horns. Bind these hackle quills
to the top of the hook, so that the tip ends project about 1 1/2"
in front of the eye. Take a bunch of black skunk tail about the
size of a match and bind it to the top of the hook, with tip ends
towards the eye of the hook as in Diagram 7, Fig. 1. Next fold the hair
forward and bind down tightly as in Fig. 2. Again fold the hair back and
tie down as in {41} Fig. 3. Then again as in Fig. 4. Notice that each
time the hair is folded back upon itself and tied down, that it forms a
segment of the body, and that each segment increases in size, until your
nymph looks like Fig. 5. At this stage turn the nymph over and tie a piece
of light grey feather about 1/8" wide across the bottom, separate the
fibers with the tying silk to form the legs. Now cut a small light grey
pigeon feather with the centre quill, as dotted line in Fig. 6. Give this
a coat of clear lacquer: when dry, tie flat, on the back of the nymph to
form the first set of wings, as in Fig. 7. Cut another feather and treat
the same way, tie these slightly forward of the first set of wings, and
you have a Dobson Nymph that is very lifelike in appearance.
{42}
BASS FLIES
AND FEATHER STREAMERS
It will appear obvious from a study of Diagram 8, page (43) that the
tying of bass flies and Feather Streamers differs so little from the
tying of wet flies and bucktails that a detailed description will be
unnecessary.
Bass flies are little more than large trout lies, the
principal difference being the feathers that are used for the wings
although the same feathers can be used as for trout flies. It is
customary with commercial tiers to use two whole feathers for the wings,
or the tips of two wings feathers, etc. Place the concave sides together
and tie in the butt ends the same as for a wet fly. Bass flies to be
used as spinner flies, that is, flies to be used with a spinner in
front, should be tied on ring eyed hooks instead of hooks with turned
down or turned up eyes.
{43}
[Illustration: Diagram 8. Page sized diagram showing drawings of bass
flies.]
{44}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of flies tied by the author.]
Certain patterns of these flies have for a long time been famous as
salmon flies in northern New England and Canada and the past few years
have seen them steadily growing in popularity with anglers of
Connecticut, especially for Rainbow Trout. The feathers {45} that are
used for wings are saddle hackles, and from four to eight feathers are
used, hackles of the same size are selected, the tip ends placed even,
and the concave sides of those used for the left side are placed next to
the concave sides of those used for the right side, in other words, both
the right and left side of the wing will be convex, or outside of the
feather. Any of the standard pattern flies can be tied as streamers.
Some of the patterns however, are very elaborate flies; the Supervisor,
for instance, has wings of light blue with shorter feathers of green on
each side, with peacock herl along each wing, polar bear hair, jungle
cock shoulders, a silver body, and a red tag. This fly was developed a
few years ago by Mr. Joseph Stickney, Supervisor of Wardens, State of
Maine, to imitate the smelt, a natural salmon food. The original Supervisor
did not have the jungle cock or the peacock heal. Mr. Stickney suggested
the addition of these feathers to me last year, and I believe that this
is now the approved dressing.
{46}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feather streamers tied by
the author.]
{47}
FAMOUS BUCKTAIL AND
FEATHER STREAMERS
SUPERVISOR: WINGS, Blue saddle hackle with polar bear hair, and
peacock herl down each side. CHEEKS, green hackle tip and jungle
cock. BODY silver. TAG, red wool.
TIGER: (light) WINGS, brownish yellow bucktail or red squirrel
tail. BODY yellow chenille. TAG, gold. TAIL, barred wood duck.
CHEEKS, jungle cock. THROAT, scarlet.
TIGER: (dark) WINGS, yellow bucketful. BODY peacock herl. TAG, gold.
TAIL, barred wood duck. CHEEKS, jungle cock. Short red fin.
GREGG'S DEMON: WINGS, grizzly saddle hackle dyed brown. BODY, silver
ribbed with gold. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TAIL, barred wood duck. TOPPING,
golden pheasant crest. HACKLE, Orange.
JUNGLE PRINCESS: WINGS grizzly saddle hackle dyed yellow with
large jungle cock. CHEEKS, blue chatterer. BODY gold tinsel.
HACKLE, white.
GRIZZLY GREY: WINGS, grizzly saddle hackles. CHEEKS, jungle cock.
TAIL, orange. BODY, silver tinsel. HACKLE, white bucktail.
{48}
HIGHLAND BELLE: WINGS orange saddle hackles inside, grizzly saddle
hackles outside. CHEEKS, jungle cock. BODY, gold tinsel ribbed with
silver tinsel. HACKLE, white bucktail.
SPENCER BAY SPECIAL: WINGS blue saddle hackles inside with furnace
saddle hackles outside. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TAIL, golden pheasant
tippet. BODY, silver tinsel ribbed with oval silver tinsel. HACKLE,
yellow and blue mixed.
BLACK GHOST: WINGS, white saddle hackle. BODY, black silk floss ribbed
with silver. CHEEKS, jungle cock. HACKLE, yellow.
GREY GHOST: WINGS, grey saddle hackle with peacock herl and white
bucktail. BODY, orange floss ribbed with gold. CHEEKS, silver pheasant
feather and jungle cock.
BROWN GHOST: WINGS, brown saddle hackle. BODY, brown floss ribbed
with gold. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TOPPING, golden pheasant crest.
TAIL, golden pheasant crest. HACKLE, yellow.
WARDEN'S WORRY: WINGS one red and one grizzly saddle hackle. HACKLE,
yellow, tied very full.
WHITE MARIBOU: WINGS, white caribou. CHEEKS, large jungle cock and
small red feather. TOPPING, golden pheasant crest.
YELLOW MARIBOU: WINGS, yellow caribou. CHEEKS, large Jungle cock
and small red feather. TOPPING peacock herl. Two complete caribou
feathers can be used, or sections of the feathers, depending upon
the size of the hook. Size 4 long shank hook is a good size to tie
them for salmon.
{49}
FLOATING BUGS AND THEIR
CONSTRUCTION
A style of fishing becoming more popular each year is that of Fly Rod
fishing with Floating Bugs. These Bugs represents the large moth,
butterfly, etc., and are constructed of a large variety of materials.
Some have cork bodies. Some have Balsa Wood bodies. Others all hair
bodies. Bodies covered with chenille, and other materials. One of the
easiest to make and I believe one of the most successful styles, is
entirely constructed from the body hair of the deer, reindeer, or
caribou. All of these hairs are rather coarse and hollow consequently
are very buoyant, and when properly made into a copy of the living
insect, they have a soft, lifelike body that appears very natural when
taken by a fish. These soft bodied Bugs are not so apt to be ejected
before the Angler has time to set the hook, as are those with hard
bodies.
{50}
[Illustration: Page sized diagram showing bass bugs tied by the author.]
Although the object of this book is to teach the Angler how to tie
his own flies a few words in regards to the writer's personal
experiences in using these Bugs might not be amiss at this time.
Floating Bugs are mostly tied on large size hooks and generally used for
{51} bass. However, I have had a great deal of luck and many pleasant
experiences with them tied as small as a #14 Model Perfect hook, and
used with a 4x Leader. The small sizes will take many large trout, and
are readily accepted by all pan fish. When fishing in still waiters with
the Floating Bugs, whether it be for bass, pickerel, trout or pan fish I
use a light leader, treated so that it will sink. I cast to a likely
looking spot, beside an old stump along lily pads, or to an opening in
the lily pads themselves. I let the Bug hit the water with quite a
splash, as a living moth of the same size would, and there I let
it lie, absolutely motionless, as though stunned by the blow. By all
means do not be impatient, let the Bug lie perfectly still for two or
three minutes, and then simply move the tip of your rod just enough to
cause the Bug to quiver on the surface. Again let it lie perfectly still
for a minute or two; usually about the second time the Bug is made to
quiver you can expect a strike, and when a big bass comes after one of
these Bugs, he comes full of action. When fishing fast water, I fish
them exactly as I would a dry fly, upstream or up and across the
current. My personal choice for color is the natural brownish grey body
hair from either the deer, reindeer, or caribou. Wings, tail and body
all the same natural color. I tie this pattern from size 2/0 Model
perfect hook down to size 14, and us {52} the larger sizes for bass
and pickerel, and the smaller sizes for trout and pan fish. I
remember one very pleasant experience that happened in northern
Maine three years ago. There is a small, deep, spring fed lake of
about ten acres in area, completely surrounded by wilderness; this
lake had been stocked with, Rainbow Trout and closed to all fishing
for five years. I was fortunate in being there about two months after
it had been opened to fishing and was invited to try my luck, after
first being advised that although some very nice catches were regularly
being taken on a Streamer Fly fished deep, also on live bait and worms
with a spinner, no one had even been able to take fish on the surface.
I arrived at this lake about one hour before dark, and it was one of
those evenings when the water was actually boiling with rising trout.
In fact never before or since have I seen so many fish breaking water
at the same time. I immediately made up my mind to take fish on the
surface. I began fishing with a small spider, and changed fly after fly
for the next half hour with the same results as had been experienced by
other dry fly fishermen. In desperation and with darkness fast approaching
I tied on a size 4 Grey Bug and cast about thirty feet from shore. The Bug
hit the water with quite a splash and didn't even as much as put down one
fish, and several continued to {53} rise from within a few inches to a few
feet from where the Bug landed. I waited a couple of minutes and gave the
Bug a little twitch, nothing happened, again I twitched and again nothing
happened. I began to believe I was stumped when again the Bug was moved
ever so slightly for the fifth time, and remember this was at least seven
minutes after it first hit the water. A fish struck. In a few minutes I
landed a 2 1/4 pound Rainbow. Before darkness had brought the day to a
close I had landed three more beautiful Rainbows averaging 2 pounds
each. I had never since had the opportunity to fish in this beautiful
little lake. Some day I hope to return, and again try, and I believe
succeed in taking these beautiful Rainbow Trout on the conventional
dry fly. However, this one little experience proved conclusively to
me the absolute necessity of patience in fishing Floating Bugs.
FLOATING BUGS:
THEIR CONSTRUCTION
(SEE DIAGRAM 9)
First let us begin by making the most simple; that is, one that has the
Body, Wings, and Tail, all of the same material and color. Follow the
illustrations carefully and even your first attempt will be a
masterpiece.
{54}
Although I use well waxed 00 tying silk, you will find that regular
sewing silk size A will work best on your first attempt. First wax your
thread thoroughly and take a few turns around the shank of the hook and
tie in a small bunch of hairs for the tail, as in Diagram 9, Fig. 1,
page (55). We will assume that we are using regular deer hair cut from
the hide. Next clip a small bunch of hairs, about the size of a match,
close to the hide. You will notice there is some fuzz mixed with the
hair at the base close to the skin, pick out the fuzz and place the
butts of the hairs under the hook as in Fig. 2, Take a couple of loose
turns with the tying silk, hold the tips of the hair with the thumb and
finger of the left hand, and pull the tying silk down tight. You will
notice that the hairs spin around the hook and the butt ends will stand
out pretty much at right angles to the hook, as in Fig. 3. Cut off the
tip end of the hairs on the dotted line, press the hairs back tightly,
apply a drop of water-proof lacquer to the base of the hairs and the
hook, and repeat the same process of tying on a small bunch of hair,
each time pressing it back tightly. Remember this is important, because
the hair must be as close together as possible to make a firm, smooth,
buoyant body.
{55}
[Illustration: Diagram 9. Page sized diagram showing drawings of bass
bug construction.]
When you have built the body up until it looks something like
Fig. 4, remove it from the vise and with a sharp pair of scissors
trim and shape it until it looks {56} like Figs. 5 and 6. At this stage
you should have 3/16" of the shank of the hook left just behind the eye,
where you will tie on the wings. Cover this bare hook with the well waxed
tying silk, and lay a bunch of hair on top of the hook for wings as Fig.
7. Crisscross the tying silk around the wings and the hook until they
are securely tied together. Place several coats of lacquer over he
junction of the wings and hook, to more securely bind them in place.
Lacquer the entire wings if you wish and when they have partially dried,
press them flat, spread them, trim them as Fig. 8, and your Bug is
completed.
Any combination of color may be used, different colored wings and tail,
different colored rings in the body. White body with red tail and wings
is a good pattern. Yellow body, black wings and tail another. Various
feather combinations can be used for wings and tall. Create your own
designs, and develop your patterns.
CORK BODIED BASS BUGS
(SEE DIAGRAM 10)
These high floaters are easy to make and may be tied on most any size
hook desired. Kinked shank hooks should be used to prevent the body
from turning on the {57} hook. Colored lacquer or enamel can be used to
decorate the bodies, and eyes can be either painted on, or regular small
glass eyes inserted and held in place with water-proof glue or lacquer.
Any of the fancy feathers that are used for regular bass flies can be
used for wings. Hair or feathers can be used for tails, etc. Let us
first make one of these cork bodied Bugs on a size 1/0 hook. Take a 1/2"
cork cylinder and with a razor blade shape it roughly as Diagram 10,
Figs. 1 and 2. Then with a piece of 00 sandpaper held in the right hand
and the cylinder in the left it is a very simple matter to give the body
a nice smooth, shapely finish. Next cut a small V out of the body as in
Fig. 3. This is easier to fit to the hook and easier to cement securely
than simply making a slit in the cork. Press the V slit over the hook as
in Fig. 4. Apply cement or lacquer liberally to the inside of the V
slot, and to the hook shank. Press the piece that was removed securely
back into place, bind tightly with string, as in Fig. 5, and let set
over night. Next day when the cement has thoroughly dried and the body
is permanently fastened to the hook, remove the string and with the
sandpaper touch up any rough places on the body, and give a coat of
lacquer or enamel of the desired color.
{58}
[Illustration: Diagram 10. Page sized diagram showing drawings of cork
bodied bass bug construction.]
When the body enamel has dried, take a pair of feathers for wings (whole
feathers that have the quill in the centre, same as are used for regular
bass fly wings are best), and with the {59} tying silk bind these fast to
the top side of the shoulders as in Fig. 6. Tie on a tail close to the
body, paint on the eyes, paint any other color or designs you wish on
the body, and the Bug is completed.
{60}
[Illustration: Diagram 11. Page sized diagram showing drawings of angler's
knots.]
{61}
ANGLER'S KNOTS
Figs. 1, 2 and 3 in Diagram 11, page (60) show a very convenient way to
tie a dropper loop in the leader; roll the gut between thumb and finger
at (A) Fig. 1, next invert loop (B) through (C) Figs. 2 and 3.
Figs. 4, 5, and 6 make the best knot for or a loop in the end of a
leader, gut snells etc. Pull loop (C) through loop (B) Figs. 5 and 6.
Figs. 7, 8, and 9 are about the easiest and most secure knots for
making leaders, the ends are in the centre of the finished knot and
can be clipped close.
Figs. 10, 11, and 12, the figure eight knot, is the best for tying flies
to the leader, it won't slip, and the pull is in line with the hook
shank.
{62}
MY FAVORITE FLIES
Quite frequently I am asked which fly I like the best, or which
particular patterns I would choose should I carry only a few flies with
me on a trip. That is rather a difficult question to answer. The
season, the type of fishing and location must be taken into
consideration.
There must be some reason for so many hundreds of patterns. I hardly
believe that any half dozen patterns can be used with constant success
throughout the season, even in one particular locality. There are times,
when fish are feeding, that they will take anything; again one may
change fly after fly without success, when finally a fly will be tried
that will take fish on every cast. Suppose that particular fly wasn't
included in the chosen few, the answer is obvious.
However, I will endeavor to choose six patterns each of the various
styles, and to give my reasons for their choice, but here I assure you
there will always be many more patterns in my fly box for further trial,
after I have exhausted my favorite six.
Beginning with dry flies, my first choice would be {63} a Quill Gordon,
on a size 16 hook. This fly closely represents the numerous duns that
are on or about the water, to some extent, during the entire season. I
have little faith in color in the dry fly, except light or dark shades.
I do believe that the size and shape have a great deal more to do with
the success of a dry fly than color. I have proven to my own
satisfaction that a Quill Gordon sparsely dressed as it should be, but
tied with a black hackle and yellow mallard wings, is just as successful
as the customary dressing.
My second choice would be the Red Ant. Although this fly belongs to the
order Hymenoptera, it can be used when many of the Diptera order are on
the water, such as Cowdung, Blue bottle, Bee, etc. This family all have
flat wings and make an entirely different appearance than the
aforementioned Quill Gordon. I tie the Red Ant on a size 14 hook. I
build the body first of red silk floss, shape it like the body of an
ant, give it a couple of coats of clear lacquer and let it dry hard and
shiny. This body will reflect light, much as the natural insect. I then
tie on two hackle tips for wings. Have them about as long as the hook,
spread them so they are at about a 30 degree angle from the body
and very flat. I then use a brown saddle hackle with fibers about
3/4" long for legs. I put on only two or three turns of the hackle,
and then clip off all of the top and bottom hackles, leaving only
about six fibers sticking {64} straight out on each side. This fly will
float very close to the water, and because of its sparse dressing,
slightly heavy body because of the lacquer, it is not a good floater. It
also has the disadvantage of being hard to see. However, it is still my
second choice, and properly dressed, and fished with a very fine leader,
will take many nice fish.
My third choice is the Fan Wing Royal Coachman. This fly was never
supposed to represent any particular family but I believe it is taken by
fish for the Lepidoptera, large-winged moths and butterflies. It seems
to be very successful when these are about in the evening.
My fourth choice is the Furnace Spider. This fly I tie on a size 16
short shank hook, by winding only about three turns of a furnace saddle
hackle, with fibers about three fourths of an inch long. Tied in this
manner, without any body or tail, the fly will alight on the water with
the hook down, and looked at from beneath, against the light, only the
little black spot will be noticeable. This I believe represents some of
the order Coleoptera (beetles) and also the small black gnat (Empidae).
I know if no other ways to tie the Black Gnat small enough to represent
the natural insect, and even on the very smallest hook, the artificial
is usually many times larger than the natural. The small black centre
of the furnace saddle hackle tied in this manner seems to represent
the size of the natural very {65} closely. This fly is a very good
floater and an excellent fly when trout are feeding on those small
insects.
My fifth choice is the Grannon. This fly is of the order of Trihoptera,
and has different shaped wings than any of those previously mentioned,
the wings being quite full and roof shaped. It is on the water a good
part of the season, and can be used when other flies with this shape
wing are about, such as the alder fly, cinnamon fly, etc.
My next and sixth choice of dry fly would be the Brown Palmer, made on a
size 12 long shank hook with a full body of peacock herl, and palmer
hackle, wound not too full. This I believe is taken by the trout for
many of the caterpillars.
My personal choice of these six patterns should now appear quite
obvious, should it be necessary for me to limit myself to such a small
selection. I have selected one each of the six most prominent orders,
and should any one of the hundreds of families of these orders be in
prominence on the water, I would at least have the correct size or
color.
My choice of the standard pattern wet flies, Feather Streamers, Bucktail
Streamers, and nymphs would be a little more difficult. I am a firm
believer that color plays a very important part in the dressing of wet
flies, as well as size and style. I offer my personal choice of these
styles because of the consistency with which they {66} have taken fish
for me during many years of fishing all parts of the country.
I do not hesitate to say that I have taken more trout, of all kinds, on
a brown hackle with peacock herl body, than any of the other common wet
fly patterns. This is probably because I have used it more. I do believe
that in the north, and especially for brook trout, a fly with a little
red in it is more productive. Therefore, for northern fishing I would
select Royal Coachman, Parmachene Belle, and Montreal. Other favorite
flies that are good most anywhere in North America are Grizzly King,
Queen O'Waters; Cahill, and Grey Hackle.
Feather Streamers and Hair Streamers are being more extensively used
each year. Many authorities are of firm conviction that these flies
unquestionably represent small minnows, upon which the fish are in the
habit of feeding. This may be true, but I have seen many rubber, metal
and composition minnows, that were exact replicas of the naturals, both
as to color and size, and they would not take fish as would the Feather
or Hair Streamers, fished in the same waters at the same time.
Most of my experience with Feather Streamers and also Hair Streamers
has been for Landlocked Salmon and Rainbow Trout, in big waters.
So I will list these according to the way they have produced for
me. The {67} Black Ghost on a #4 long shank hook has been my most
successful Feather Streamer. Probably because its white streamers are
easily seen by the fish. It will most always raise fish, even if not
the proper fly to make them strike. The Grey Ghost is another, and
one of the most popular streamers in the North for Landlocked Salmon.
This fly, as well as the Supervisor, Spencer Bay Special and numerous
other flies of this style, were originally designed by their creators
to represent the smelt, a favorite food of the salmon. These flies
vary so in their color combinations that I wonder what the fish do
take them for. However, I do know that a Grey Ghost will work when
a Supervisor will not, and vice versa. One is grey and the other
is blue. When fishing in lakes with a Feather Streamer for trout I have
consistently had most luck with a creation of my own, Gregg's Demon.
This fly was never tied to represent anything, but I have taken many
nice fish on it, and have seen little fellows hardly as long as the fly
itself chase it, and try their best to bite it in two. There is just
something about it that has "fish appeal."
A Brown Bucktail with a silver body on a #6 3x long shank hook rates
number one in Bucktail streamers. Another excellent fly that has been a
favorite for years, is a Yellow and Red Bucktail, with a silver body,
the red only a narrow streak through the centre. This fly has recently
been named "Mickey Finn." A red and {68} white, with silver or gold body
is a real good pattern where there are brook trout, and tied on a large
hook is very good for bass.
I use one with all white bucktail and silver body, the same as I do a
Black Ghost, for locating fish. I find they will most always show their
presence, one way or another when a white fly is cast near them.
An all yellow with black streak in the centre same as the "Mickey Finn"
is another very good combination. This is an excellent pickerel and bass
fly. In fact, most any of these Feather Streamers and Bucktail Streamers
tied on larger hooks, and used with or without a spinner, are excellent
lures for both bass and pickerel.
Nymphs: I have explained elsewhere my liking these lures, and can say
little more except that I always carry the following color combinations
in various sizes. All tied according to styles illustrated in the
diagrams. Cream Belly with Dark Back; Yellow Belly with Black Ribs and
Dark Back; Green Belly with Dark Back; Grey Belly and Gold Ribs with
Dark Back; Brown Belly and Gold Ribs with Black Back; Orange Belly and
Black Ribs with Dark Back.
{69}
STANDARD DRESSINGS OF 334 FLIES
ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED
[Transcriber's Note: Some of the names are not in strict
alphabetical order.]
[Transcriber's Note: The dressing of each fly is described in the
following order:
NAME
TAG
TAIL
RIBS
BODY
HACKLE
WINGS]
Abbey
None
Orange & black
Gold
Red Floss
Brown
Grey Mottled (mallard)
Adams
Gold
Golden tippet
None
Grey Wool
Brown and grizzly
Grey Mottled (mallard)
Alexandra
None
Peacock herl
None
Silver
Black
Peacock sward and jungle cock
Alder
None
None
None
Peacock herl
Black
Dark speckled Turkey or Grouse
Apple Green
None
Brown
None
Green Silk
Brown
Dark Grey
Ash Dun
None
Grey
None
Silver Grey
Grey
Lt. Starling
August Dun
None
Redish
Yellow
Lt. Brown Floss
Redish Brown
Hen Pheasant
Autumn Dun
None
Black
Yellow
Black
Grey
Teal Breast
Babcock
None
Black and Yellow
Gold
Cardinal Red
Black
Black and Yellow
Barrington
None
Grey Speckled
None
Peacock Herl
Brown
Grey Speckled
Beauty
None
None
Silver
Black
Badger
Spotted Golden
Beaverkill
Gold
Grey Speckled
None
White Floss
Brown tied palmer
Grey
Bee
Gold
None
None
Black & Yellow chenille
Brown
Brown
Belgrade
Peacock herl
Scarlet and white
None
Yellow
Claret tied palmer
Red, white and jungle cock
Blue Rooster
None
Tan mottled wood duck
None
Condor Quill
Blue Andalusian
Tan mottled wood duck
Blue Bi-visible
None
None
None
Blue floss
Blue tied palmer
None
Black Bi-visible
None
None
None
Black floss
Black, tied palmer
None
Blue Winged Olive
None
Brown
None
Green
Golden Brown
Blue dun hackle tips
{70}
Blue Professor
Gold
Scarlet
Gold
Blue floss
Ginger
Grey speckled
Black Nymph
None
Brown mottled
None
Black herl
Partridge
None
Brown Nymph
None
Brown mottled
None
Brown herl
Partridge
None
Br. Bi-Visible
None
None
Silver or None
Brown
Brown
None
Brown Spider
None
None
None
Brown
Brown
None
Black Spider
None
None
None
Black
Black
None
Brown Dun
None
Brown
None
Brown
Brown
Starling
Black Midge
None
None
None
Black
Black
None
Black Prince
Silver
Scarlet
Silver
Black floss
Black
Black
Blue Dun
None
Pale blue hackle
None
Pale blue fur
Pale blue dun
Blue grey
Blue Bottle
White silk
None
Black or Gold
Steel blue silk or dk. blue chenille
None
None
Black Gnat
Gold
None
None
Black Chenille
Black
Grey
Black Hackle
Gold
None
None
Black Chenille
Black
None
Blue Upright
None
Pale blue hackle
None
Pale blue fur
Pale blue dun
Blue Grey
Brown Hackle
Gold
Golden tippet
None
Peacock herl
Brown
None
Brown Palmer
Gold
Golden tippet
None
Peacock herl
Brown tied palmer
None
Brown Hen
Red Silk
None
None
Peacock herl
Brown
Brown mottled
Blue Quill
None
Blue dun hackle
None
Quill
Blue Dun
Blue Grey
Black and Silver
None
Golden tippet
None
Silver
Black
Black
Black and Claret
None
Golden tippet
Silver
Claret Wool
Black
Black
Black June
None
None
Silver
Peacock herl
Black
Dark Grey
Black Moose
None
Green and Yellow
None
Green
Black tied palmer
Guinea
Black Quill
None
Black
None
Quill
Black
Dark Grey
Black Ant
Black chenille
None
None
Black Silk
Black
Slate
{71}
Blue and Black
None
Golden tippet
None
Black
Black
None
Blue Jay
Gold
Scarlet
Gold
Red
Red
Blue Jay
Blue Quill
None
Blue Dun
None
Quill
Blue Dun
Grey
Bonnie View
Gold
Grey
Gold
Olive Brown
Brown
Grey
Boots Black
Gold
Speckled
Gold
Red Wool
Black
Black
Bandreth
Gold
Scarlet
Gold
Yellow
Scarlet and yellow
Grey speckled
Brown Adder
Red
Black & Br. mottled
None
Brown silk
Brown, tied palmer
Black and brown mottled
Brown Sedge
Gold
None
Gold
Brown Silk
Brown
Brown
Bustard and Black
Silver
Golden tippet
Silver
Black Wool
Black
None
Bustard and Orange
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Orange Wool
Orange
None
Butcher
None
Scarlet
None
Silver
Black
Blue black
Caddis
Gold
Grey
Gold
Brown Silk
Brownish Red
Grey
Cahill, Dark
Gold
Tan Mottled
None
Grey Wool or Fur
Brown
Tan mottled wood duck
Cahill, Light
Gold
Tan Mottled
None
Buff Wool
Ginger
Tan Mottled
Cahill Quill
None
Tan Mottled
None
Quill
Grey
Tan Mottled
Canada
Gold
Claret
Gold
Bright Red
Brown
Mottled Turkey
Carpenter
None
None
None
Rusty red wool
Red
Hen Pheasant
Cardinal
Gold
Red
Gold
Red Wool
Light red
Red
Claret Gnat
None
None
None
Claret Wool
Claret
Dark Grey
Cinnamin
None
Golden tippet
Gold
Lemon & Black Wool
Brown
Cinnamon
Coachman
Gold
Golden tippet
None
Peacock Herl
Brown
White
Coachman Leadwing
Gold
Golden tippet
None
Peacock Herl
Brown
Dark Grey
Cock-y-bondhu
Gold
None
Gold
Peacock Herl
Furnace
None
Col. Fuller
None
Black and yellow
Yellow silk
Scarlet
Yellow
Yellow and scarlet
{72}
Cow Dung
None
None
None
Dirty orange herl or yel. green wool
Brown
Grey
Critchley Fancey
Gold
Yellow
Gold
Yellow
Yellow and grey
Grizzly and scarlet
Cupsuptic
None
Golden tippet
Silver
Red Silk Floss
Brown
Yellow
Dark Sedge
None
None
Gold Wire
Dk. Green Wool
Blood Red
None
Dark Stone
None
None
Yellow Silk
Grey Wool
Grey
Dark Grey
Dr. Breck
None
Grey Speckled
None
Silver
Scarlet
White and Scarlet
Dorset
None
Furnace
None
Green Wool
Furnace
Teal
Downlooker
None
None
None
Brown Floss
Brown, tied palmer
Brown and black mottled turkey
Deer Fly
None
Black
None
Bright Green
White
White
Dusty Miller
None
Grey speckled
Gold Wire
Grey wool mohair
Grey
Dirty Grey Turkey
Dark Miller
None
Br. Hackle
Brown Silk
Scarlet
None
Yellow and black
Emerald
Gold
None
Gold
Lt. Green
t. Brown
Brown Mottled
Evening Dun
None
Lt. Blue
None
Buff Wool
Lt. Blue
Starling
Epting
None
Gey speckled
None
Red, orange, & yel. chenille
Black
Grey Speckled
Female Beaverkill
Yellow chenille
Grey speckled
None
Grey silk or wool
Brown
Dark Grey
Female Grannon
Green
None
None
Brown Floss
Partridge
Brown mottled partridge
Fem. March Br.
None
None
Yellow Silk
Dk. brown floss
None
Brown mottled turkey or grouse
Ferguson
Scarlet yel. and herl
None
None
None
None
Mottled turkey tail, yellow and red
Fern Fly
None
None
None
Orange Floss
Lt. Red
Dark Starling
Feted Green
None
Green
None
Green
Green
Green
{73}
Fiery Brown
gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Redish brown mohair or wool
R. I. Red
Bronze
Flights Fancy
None
Ginger
Gold
Pale Yel. Floss
Ginger
Lt. grey
Francis Fly
None
None
Red Silk
Peacock Herl
None
Grizzly Dun
Furnace Dun
Gold
Furnace
None
Br. & orange wool
Furnace
Dark Starling
Furnace Hackle
None
None
None
Peacock Herl
Furnace
None
Gen. Hooker
None
None
Yellow
Green Floss
Brown
Mottled grey and brown
Great Dun
Brown hairs
Gold
Gold
Brown Floss
Brown
Dark Grey
Grey Bi-Visible
None
None
Silver or None
None
Grizzly
None
Green Nymph
None
Green
Gold
Green Wool
Green
None
Grey Spider
None
None
None
Grey
Grizzly
None
Gld. Midge
None
None
Gold
Pale Green
Dun
None
Great Dun
Gold
Brown Hairs
Gold
Brown Silk
Brown
Dark Grey
Ginger Palmer
Silver
None
Silver
Yellow or ginger floss
Ginger, tied palmer
None
Ginger Quill
None
Ginger
None
Quill
Ginger
Lt. Grey
Golden Dun
Gold
Grey Speckled
Gold
Gold or orange
Red
Lt. Grey
Golden Dun Midge
Gold
Grey Hairs
Gold
Pale Green Wool
Light Grey
Lt. Grey
Gold Spinner Gold Eyed
None
Grey Speckled
None
Gold
Red
Dark Grey
Gold Eyed Gauze Wing
None
Blue Dun
None
Pale yel. and green silk
Blue Dun
Blue dun hackle tips
Gold Monkey
None
None
None
Yellow Silk Floss
Grey Speckled
Dark Grey
Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear
Gold
Dark Hairs
Gold
Rabbit's Fur
None
Grey
{74}
Gold Stork
None
Grey speckled
None
Gold
Brown
Grey speckled
Golden Eyed Gauze Wing
None
None
None
Pale Grey
Pale Grey
Pale Green
Good Evening
Gold
Orange
Gold
Scarlet
Brown
Dark blue with white tip
Gordon
Gold
Brown speckled
Gold
Yellow
Grey
Brown speckled wood duck
Govenor
None
None
None
Peacock Herl
Brown
Brown mottled turkey
Gov. Alford
None
Scarlet
None
Green Herl
Brown
Black and Brown
Grannon
None
None
None
Brown fur or wool
Brown or grizzly
Dark Partridge
Gravelbed
None
None
None
Dark Grey
Black
Woodcock
Grey Drake
None
Grey Speckled
Black
White Floss
Grey
Grey speckled
Grey Hackle peacock
None
None
None
Peacock Herl
Grizzly
None
Grey Hackle
Gold
Golden tippet
None
Red wool or silk
Grizzly
None
Grey Hackle yellow
Gold
Golden tippet
Yellow wool or silk
Grizzly
None
None
Grey Marlow
Gold
None
Gold
Red Wool
Grey
Grey
Grey Miller
None
None
None
Grey Wool
Grey
Grey
Great Dun
None
Brown and Grey
None
Maroon Purple and Red Floss
Grey or Black
Grey or Black
Great Red spinner
None
Black and white
Gold
Red Floss
Brown
Slate Grey
Grey Bodied Ashy
None
Golden tippet
None
Brown, black, or green herl or wool
Grey
None
Green Drake
None
Brown pheasant
Brown Floss
Raffia or lemon silk
Partridge & ginger
Yellowish Olive
Green Insect
None
None
None
Green Herl
Green
None
{75}
Greenwell's Glory
None
Yellow
Gold
Olive or Yellow
Furnace
Mottled woodcock
Grizzly King
Gold
Scarlet
Gold
Dark Green
Grizzly
Grey Speckled
Grouse & Black
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Black Fur
Black
Grouse
Grouse & Claret
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Claret mohair or wool
Claret
Grouse
Grouse & Green
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Green Wool
Ginger
Grouse
Grouse & Orange
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Orange Wool
Orange
Grouse
Grouse & Peacock
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Peacock Herl
Dark Red
Grouse
Grouse & Purple
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Purple Wool
Purple
Grouse
Grouse Spider
None
None
None
Orange Floss
Grouse
Grouse
Half Stone
None
None
None
Yellow
Honey Dun
Woodcock
Hazel-Fly
None
None
None
Green Herl
Furnace
None
Hemsworth
Gold & herl
Golden tippet
None
None
None
None
Hammond's Adopted
Gold
None
Gold
Lt. Brown
Ginger
Mottled woodcock
Hare's Ear
None
None
Yellow Silk
Rabbit's fur
Yel. or None
Grey
Harlequin
None
None
None
Orange and lt. blue wool
Black
Grey
Hawthorn
None
Black hackle
None
Black ostrich herl
Black
Lt. Grey
Hen. Guinea
Gold
Scarlet
Gold
Red wool
Red
Guinea Fowl
Henshall
None
Peacock Herl
None
Peacock Herl
Lt. Grey
Grey Speckled
Hod
Gold
None
Gold
Pea-Green
Dark Ginger
Hen Pheasant
Hofland Fancy
None
Brown
None
Red (dark)
Brown
Brown and Yellow
Hoskins
None
Golden tippet
None
Lemon
Blue Dun
Woodcock
House Fly
None
None
None
Dun Condor Quill
Black
Dark Starling
Howell
Gold
Scarlet
Gold
Peacock Herl
Claret
White tip turkey tail
Ibis and White
Gold
Red & White
Gold
Red floss
Rd/ & White
Red and White
{76}
Imbrie
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
White
Lt. Red
Dark Starling
Indian Yellow
None
Ginger
Yellow
Lt. Brown
Ginger
Goose
Iron Blue Dun
None
Yellow
None
None
Blue Dun
Bluish Black
Iron Blue Quill
None
Blue Dun
None
Quill
Blue Dun lt.
Blue Dun Hkl. Tip
Iron Blue Nymph
None
Honey Dun
None
None
Honey Dun
None
July Dun
None
Dun
None
Yellow
Dark Dun
Starling
Joe Killer
None
Barred woodduck
None
Silver
Short red bucktail
Yel. & white peacock swd. & jungle cock
Jenni
None
Lavendar or blue
Gold
Yellow floss
Scarlet
Lavendar or lt. blue
Jock Scott
Black silk
Yellow & Scarlet
White floss
Yellow floss
Grouse & Guinea
Yel. & grey speckled scarlet & jungle cock
Jennie Spinner
Orange and brown
Cream hackle
None
White horse hair
Silver Blue
Silver blue hackle tips or None
Jungle Cock
None
Scarlet
Gold or white
Blue grey fur
Claret or blk.
Dark brown and jungle cock
Katy-did
None
Black Hairs
Gold Wire
Green floss
Green
Green
King O'Waters
Gold
Grey Speckled
Gold
Red floss
Brown
Grey Speckled
Kingdon
Gold
None
Green floss
White floss
Dark
Woodcock
King Fisher
None
None
None
Silver
Lt. Blue
Kingfisher
Kitson
Gold
Black Hairs
Gold
Yellow
Claret
Yellow with black cheeks
La Branche
Gold
Grey
Gold
Blue Grey Fur
Blue Dun
Grey
Lady Doctor
Gold and red wool
Two yellow hackle
None
Yellow Wool
Yel. tied palm.
Polar bear and Black hair and jungle cock
Lady Beaverkill
Yellow chenile
Grey Speckled
None
Grey (dark)
Brown
Dark Grey
{77}
Lake Edward
None
Golden Crest
Gold
Claret Wool
Claret
Pea Green
Lake George
None
White and scarlet
Gold
Scarlet floss
White
White & Scarlet
Lake Green
None
None
Green Silk
Canary yellow
Ginger
Teal Breast
Laramie
None
Scarlet
Silver
Scarlet floss
Dark Blue
Grey Mottled
Lt. Stone
None
Grey
Yellow Silk
Grey
Grey
Grey
Little Marryat
None
Brown
None
Lt. grey or herl
Brown
Dark grey
Ld. Baltimore
None
None
Black Silk
Orange Silk
Black
Black and jungle
Lowery
None
None
None
Peacock Herl
Brown
Lt. Brown
Lt. Montreal
Gold
Grey Mottled
Gold
Scarlet
Claret
Grey Speckled
Lt. March Br.
None
Partridge hackle
None
Olive & Br. fur
Partridge
Lt. mottled partridge
Magpie
None
Black Hairs
None
Black
Black
Black with whit tip
Mallard & Amber
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Amber floss
Lt. Red
Brown mallard breast
Mallard & Claret
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Claret wool
Lt. Red
Brown mallard breast
Mallard & Green
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Green Wool
Lt. Red
Brown mallard breast
Mallard & Red
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Red wool
Lt. Red
Brown mallard breast
March Brown
None
Grouse
Yellow Silk
Br. or Grey fur
Grouse
Dark Brown mottled turkey or grouse
March Br. Ginger
None
Ginger
None
Brown fur
Ginger
Dark Brown mottled turkey or grouse
March Br. Nymph
None
Partridge
Gold
Yellow wool
Partridge
None
Markam
None
Scarlet and white
None
Yellow
Scarlet
Dark Brown with white tips
Marlow Buzz
None
None
Gold
Peacock Herl
Furnace
None
Marston's Fancy
None
None
None
Brown Fur
Brown
Dark Grey
Massasaga
Gold
Ibis
Gold
Green floss
Canary Yellow
Canary Yellow
Maxwell Blue
None
Lt. Blue
Silver
Grey
Lt. Blue
None
McGinty
None
Grey speckled and scarlet
None
Black and Yel. chenille
Brown
Brown with white tip
{78}
Mealy Moth
None
None
Silver
Lt. Grey Wool
White
White
Mershon
Silver
Black Hairs
Silver
Black
Black
Dark blue with whit tip
Merson White
None
Black Hairs
None
White
Black
Dark blue
Mole
None
Brown Hairs
Gold
Dk. brown floss
Brown tied palmer
Brown mottled mallard
Montreal
Gold
Scarlet
Gold
Claret floss
Claret
Brown mottled turkey tail or grouse
Montreal Claret
Gold
Claret
Gold
Claret floss
Claret
Brown mottled turkey tail or grouse
Montreal Silver
None
Scarlet
None
Silver
Claret
Brown mottled turkey tail or grouse
Montreal Yellow
Gold
Scarlet
Gold
Yellow floss
Claret
Brown mottled turkey tail or grouse
Morison
None
Black
Black
Claret
Black
Black
Mowry
None
Black Hairs
None
Black
Black
Black with white tip
Needle Brown
None
None
None
Orange
Dark Brown
None
Neversink
None
Black
None
Pale buff wool
Yellow
Teal breast
New Page
Gold
Gold
speckled
Yellow floss
Brown
Mottled brown and red
Olive Dun
Gold
Olive Dun
Gold or None
Olive Wool
Olive Dun
Lt. blue grey or olive dun hackle tips
Olive Quill
None
Olive
None
Quill
Olive
Olive
Orange & Bk.
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Orange Wool
Black
None
Orange Dun
None
None
None
Orange Wool
Dk. Brown
Lt. Brown
Olive Nymph
None
Olive
None
Mot. Br. wool
Olive
None
Orange Miller
None
None
Gold
Orange floss
White
White
Orange Sedge
None
None
Gold
Orange floss
Brown tied palmer
Red, Brown
Oriole
None
Yellow
Gold
Black floss
Black
Yellow
{79}
Oak
None
Black
None
Orange floss
Brown
Dark grey and Lt. Brown mottled
Pale Blue Dun
None
Pale Blue
None
Pale Blue Fur
Pale Blue
Pale blue hackle tips or None
Pale Buff
None
Pale Buff
None
Pale Buff Wool
Pale Buff
Pale Buff
Pale Eve. Dun
None
None
Br. silk or None
Lemon floss
Lt. blue grey or grizzly
Lt. Blue Grey
Pale Sulphur
None
Pale Yel. Hairs
None
Pale Yellow
Pale Yellow
Pale Yellow
Orange Tag
None
None
None
None
None
None
Pale Watery
None
Yellow
None
Olive Wool
Pale Yellow
Grey
Pale Watery Quill
None
Yellow
None
Quill
Pale Yellow
Grey
Pale Yellow
None
None
None
Yellow
Yellow
Pale Yellow
Parmachene Beau
Peacock herl
Scarlet and white
Gold
Yellow floss or mohair
Scarlet and white
Scarlet, White jungle cock
Parmachene Belle
Peacock herl
Scarlet and white
Gold
Yellow floss or mohair
Scarlet and White
Scarlet & white
Parson
None
Golden tippet
Silver wire
Silver
Black
Bronze
Peter Ross
None
Golden tippet
None
Bright Yel.
Ginger
None
Pheasant
None
None
Gold
Yellow floss
Ginger
Bronze
Pheasant, Gold
None
Golden tippet
Gold Wire
Gold
Pheasant
Pheasant, Wing
Pheasant, Silver
None
Golden tippet
Silver Wire
Silver
Pheasant
Pheasant, Wing
Pheasant & Yel.
None
Golden tippet
Gold
Yellow floss
Pheasant
Pheasant, Wing
Pink Lady
Gold
Pheasant
Gold
Pink floss
Brown
Grey Speckled
Pink Wickhams
None
Brown
None
Pink floss
Brown tied palmer
Grey Speckled
Polka
Gold
Scarlet
Gold
Scarlet floss
Scarlet
Guinea
Poor Mans Fly
None
Ginger
None
Brown Wool
Ginger
Grey Speckled
{80}
Portland
None
Grey Speckled
Gold
Red floss
Red
Teal breast
Preston's Fancy
None
Brown Hairs
None
Gold
Brown
Grey with white spot
Priest
None
Red Ibis
Silber
Silver
Badger
None
Prime Gnat
None
None
None
Brown
Brown
Dark Grey
Professor
Gold
Scarlet
Gold
Yellow floss
Brown
Grey Speckled
Quaker
None
None
Silver
Grey Wool
Grey
Grey Speckled
Queen O'Waters
None
None
Gold
Orange floss
Br. Palmer
Grey Speckled
Quill Gordon
None
Tan speckled
Gold Wire or None
Quill
Blue Dun
Tan speckled wood duck
Raven
None
Golden tippet
None
Black chenille
Black
Black Crow
Red Ant
Herl
None
None
Red floss
Brown
Dark Grey
Red Fox
None
Speckled Teal
None
Redish Brown or wool
None
None
Red Quill
None
Dark Red
None
Red Quill
Dark Red
Med. Starling
Red Ibis
None
Scarlet
Gold
Scarlet floss
Scarlet
Scarlet
Red Spinner
Gold
Brown Hairs
Gold
Red
Brown
Dark Grey
Red Tag
Red Silk
Red
None
Peacock Herl
Brown
None
Rd. Bod. Ashy
None
None
None
Red Wool
Brown Palmer
None
Ross McKenney
Gold
Barred wood duck
Gold
Brown Wool
None
White and red bucktail and jungle cock
Royal Coachman
Gold
Golden tippet
None
Peacock herl with scarlet red band
Hackle Brown
White
Rube Wood
Red
Grey Speckled
None
White Chenille
Lt. Brown
Grey Speckled
Ruben Wood
None
Tan speckled
None
White Chenille
Lt. Brown
Tan speckled
Saltoun
None
Ginger
Silver
Black floss
Black
Lt. Starling
Sand-Fly
None
Lt. Ginger
None
Copper Brown
Lt. Ginger
Yellowish Brown
Sassy Cat
None
Scarlet
None
Peacock Herl
Yellow
Yellow, scarlet cheeks
{81}
Seth Green
None
None
Yellow
Green floss
Claret
Grey speckled
Seth Green Turkey
None
None
Yellow
Green floss
Brown
Brown mottled
Shad Fly
None
None
Green
Peacock Herl
None
Brown mottled
Shoemaker
None
Tan speckled
None
Pink & Grey
Brown
Mottled Woodcock
Silver Doctor
None
Yel. blue green and red
None
Silver
Blue & Guinea
Brown, red, blue, green and yellow
Silver Horns
None
None
None
Copper floss
Grouse
None
Silver Sedge
None
None
None
Silver
Brown Palmer
Brown
Silver Stock
None
Grey Speckled
None
Silver
Brown
Teal breast
Soldier Palmer
None
None
Gold
Red Wool
Brown Palmer
None
Spent Gnat
None
Brown
Peacock herl
Wt. Floss or Quill
None
Blue Hkl. tips
Sedge, light
None
None
None
Pale Buff wool
Ginger
Hen pheasant
Sniper & Yel.
None
None
None
Pale Yel. floss
Snipe
None
Stebbins
None
Grey Speckled
None
Peacock Herl
Grouse
Dark Starling
Stone
None
Grey
Yellow
Grey Wool
Grey
Grey
Sunset
Green chenille
None
None
Yellow chenille
Yellow
White
Swiftwater
None
Grey Speckled
None
Peacock herl
Brown
White
Teal & Black
None
Golden tippet
None
Black wool
Black
Teal breast
Teal & Orange
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Orange wool
Olive
Teal breast
Teal & Gold
None
Golden tippet
None
Gold
Dk. Brown
Teal breast
Teal & Red
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Red wool
Olive
Teal breast
Teal & Silver
None
Golden tippet
None
Silver
Badger
Teal breast
Teal & Yellow
Silver
Golden tippet
Silver
Yellow wool
Ginger
Teal breast
{82}
Tippet & Black
Silver
Golden tippet
Silver
Black wool
Black
Golden tippet
Tippet & Red
Silver
Golden tippet
Silver
Red wool
Dk. Brown
Golden tippet
Tippet & Silver
Silver
Golden tippet
Silver
Silver
Badger
Golden tippet
Tootle Bug
Blue
Scarlet
None
Orange & Yel.
Br. palmer
Brown Mottled
Tups Indispensable
None
Honey Dun
None
Yellow
Honey Dun
None
Turkey Brown
None
None
Red
Brown
Brown
Brown
Turkey Professor
Gold
Red
None
Yellow floss
Brown
Brown mottled
Van Patten
None
Scarlet
Gold
White
Brown
Grey speckled
Varient, Gold
None
None
None
Gold
Blue Dun
Starling
Water Cricket
None
None
Black
Orange
Black
None
Watson's Fancy
Gold
Golden tippet
Gold
Red & Blk. wool
Black
Black hackle tips
Welshman's Button
None
None
None
Peacock Herl
Furnace
Landrail
Western Bee
None
None
None
Yellow & Black chenille
Brown
Dark Grey
Whirling Blue Dun
Gold
Ginger
None
Blue Grey Fur
Ginger
Blue Grey
White Hackle
None
None
Silver
White floss
White
None
White Miller
None
None
Silver
White floss
White
White
White Moth
Silver
None
None
White Chenille
White
White
Wickham's Fancy
None
Brown hairs
None
Gold
Br. palmer
Grey
Wickham Pink
None
Red
None
Red & Gold
Lt. Reddish
Landrail
Widow
None
None
White
Purple Floss
Black
Black
Willow
None
None
Yellow
Green
Brown
Dark Grey
Wilkson
None
None
None
Orange
Orange
Teal breast
Witch Gold
Gold
Red Ibis
Gold
Grey Wool
Badger
None
Whitechurch Dun
None
Grey Speckled
None
Yellow floss
Ginger
Lt. Grey
White Wickhams
None
Brown Hairs
None
White floss
White, palmer
Grey
{83}
Woodcock & Gold
None
Golden tippet
Silver
Gold
Ginger
Mottled Woodcock
Woodcock & Grn.
None
Golden tippet
Silver
Green wool
Green
Mottled Woodcock
Woodcock & Red
None
Golden tippet
Silver
Red wool
Reddish brown
Mottled Woodcock
Woodcock & Yellow
None
Golden tippet
Silver
Yellow wool
Woodcock
Mottled Woodcock
Worm Fly
None
None
None
Peacock Herl
Ginger
None
Yel. Bi-visible
None
None
None
Yellow wool
Yel. and white palmer
None
Yel. Coachman
None
None
None
Peacock Herl
Brown
Yellow
Yel. Dun
None
None
None
Yel. wool
Honey Dun
Lt. Starling
Yel. Hackle
None
None
Gold
Yellow floss
Yellow
None
Yel. Professor
Gold
Scarlet
Gold
Yellow floss
Brown
Yellow Speckled
Yel. May
None
Yel. Speckled
Gold or black
Yellow floss
Yellow
Yellow Speckled
Yel. Miller
None
None
Gold
Yel. & Herl
White
White
Yel. Spider
None
Yellow
None
Yellow
Yel. (long)
None
Yel. Sally
None
Yellow
Gold
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Zulu
Gold
Red
None
Peacock Herl
Black
None
The Barnes Sports Library
This library of practical sports books covers fundamentals, techniques,
coaching and playing hints and equipment for each sport. Leading
coaches and players have been selected to write these books, so each
volume is authoritative and based upon actual experience. Photographs
or drawings, or both, illustrate techniques, equipment and play.
ARCHERY
by Reichart & Keasey
BAIT CASTING
by Gilmer Robinson
BASEBALL
by Daniel E. Jessee
BASKETBALL
by Charles C. Murphy
BASKETBALL FOR GIRLS
by Meissner & Meyers
BASKETBALL OFFICIATING
by Dave Tobey
BETTER BADMINTON
by Jackson & Swan
BICYCLING
by Ruth and Raymond Benedict
BOWLING FOR ALL
by Falcaro & Goodman
BOXING
by Edwin L. Haislet
FENCING
by Joseph Vince
FIELD HOCKEY FOR GIRLS
by Josephine T. Lees
FLY CASTING
by Gilmer Robinson
FOOTBALL
by W. Glenn Killinger
GOLF
by Patty Berg
HANDBALL
by Bernath E. Phillips
HOW TO TIE FLIES
by E. C. Gregg
ICE HOCKEY
by Edward Jeremiah
JIU-JITSU
by Frederick P. Lowell
LACROSSE
by Tad Stanwick
LAWN GAMES
by John R. Tunis
PHYSICAL CONDITIONING
by Stafford & Duncan
RIDING
by J. J. Boniface
RIFLE MARKSMANSHIP
by Lt. Wm. L. Stephens
ROPING
by Bernard S. Mason
SIX-MAN FOOTBALL
by Ray O. Duncan
SKATING
by Putman & Parkinson
SKIING
by Walter Prager
SOCCER AND SPEEDBALL FOR GIRLS
by Florence L. Hupprich
SOFTBALL
by Arthur T. Noren
SOFTBALL FOR GIRLS
by Viola Mitchell
SWIMMING
by R. J. H. Kiphuth
TABLE TENNIS
by Jay Purves
TENNIS
by Helen Jacobs
TOUCH FOOTBALL
by John V. Grombach
TRACK AND FIELD
by Ray M. Conger
VOLLEY BALL
by Robert Laveaga
WRESTLING
by E. C. Gallagher
Clair Bee's Basketball Library
THE SCIENCE OF COACHING
ZONE DEFENSE AND ATTACK
MAN-TO-MAN DEFENSE AND ATTACK
DRILLS AND FUNDAMENTALS
End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Tie Flies, by E. C. Gregg
*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO TIE FLIES ***
***** This file should be named 30292.txt or 30292.zip *****
This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
https://www.gutenberg.org/3/0/2/9/30292/
Produced by Hugh T. Mitten
Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
will be renamed.
Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules,
set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project
Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you
do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is
subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
redistribution.
*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
https://gutenberg.org/license).
Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
electronic works
1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all
the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be
used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few
things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See
paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
works. See paragraph 1.E below.
1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the
collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an
individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in
a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check
the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning
the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
States.
1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
copied or distributed:
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
1.E.9.
1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked
to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
Gutenberg-tm License.
1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or
distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
that
- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is
owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments
must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
License. You must require such a user to return or
destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
Project Gutenberg-tm works.
- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
of receipt of the work.
- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the
Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
1.F.
1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
your equipment.
1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
DAMAGE.
1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you
received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with
the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy
is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
opportunities to fix the problem.
1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any
provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists
because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
people in all walks of life.
Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org.
Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
Foundation
The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at
809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
[email protected]. Email contact links and up to date contact
information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
page at https://pglaf.org
For additional contact information:
Dr. Gregory B. Newby
Chief Executive and Director
[email protected]
Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation
Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations
($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
status with the IRS.
The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations
where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To
SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
particular state visit https://pglaf.org
While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
approach us with offers to donate.
International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other
ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate
Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
works.
Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily
keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
https://www.gutenberg.org
This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
