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Title: Telephone troubles
Their location and remedy
Author: E. M. Wev
Release date: June 27, 2025 [eBook #76407]
Language: English
Original publication: New York, NY: McGraw Publishing Company, 1907
Credits: The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TELEPHONE TROUBLES ***
Transcriber’s Note
In this transcription, bold text is denoted by =equal signs=. Small
capitals in the original text have been transcribed as Title Case.
See end of this document for details of corrections and other changes.
—————————————— Start of Book ——————————————
TELEPHONE TROUBLES
THEIR LOCATION AND REMEDY.
BY E. M. WEV.
NEW YORK:
MCGRAW PUBLISHING COMPANY.
1907.
Copyrighted, 1907,
by the
McGraw Publishing Company,
New York.
NOTE.
In putting this little book before the telephone workers I do so
with the idea of helping the beginner and furnishing a guide for the
experienced man. It is composed of information gained by 15 years’
practical experience.
E. M. W
April, 1907.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER. PAGE.
I. Direct Line 1
II. Two Party Line 14
III. Four Party Set 17
IV. How to Test For and Clear Troubles in
Private Branch Exchange Switchboards 25
Inspection 40
TELEPHONE TROUBLES.
———————
CHAPTER I.
DIRECT LINE.[1]
Bell Doesn’t Ring at all.
May be caused by any of following:
1st. Condenser open.
2d. Ringer open.
3d. Hook contacts crossed.
4th. Desk stand cords or induction coil crossed.
5th. Extention bell open.
6th. Ringer short-circuited.
7th. Trouble at central office.
1st. When condenser is open you will get weak hook clicks and side
tones and hearing very weak. Prove by short-circuiting the condenser at
the lugs with a test cord, which should make the ring of the bell and
hearing O.K.
(While the condenser is short-circuited you will get only one hook
click.)
2d. Only one hook click, the side tones normal, and the failure of the
ringer armature to move when you raise or lower the hook, indicates
that the ringer is open.
Prove by replacing the receiver on the hook and then bridge across the
condenser lugs with your head receiver; if you do not get a good click
every time you make contact, the ringer is open.
Or you can make the following test; open the strap at the top of the
bell, then short-circuit the condenser lugs with a test cord; then
connect one side of your head receiver to one of the line binding
posts, and feel with the other side on the terminals of the ringer;
if you get battery on one terminal and not on the other the ringer is
certainly open.
3d. Only one hook click, side tones normal, failure of the ringer
armature to move when you raise and lower the hook, and the receiver in
circuit while the hook is down, indicates that the hook contacts are
crossed together. When this is the case, the bell will ring poorly or
not at all, and the ring can be heard in the receiver when the hook is
down. Open the receiver circuit at one of the receiver binding posts,
this should allow the bell to ring all right.
4th. Red and white strands of desk stand cord or primary and secondary
of induction coil crossed together will generally cut down hearing;
it may or may not cause only one hook click, and may or may not put
battery through the receiver, and may wholly or only partly prevent
the bell from ringing. Disconnect the strap on top of the bell and
test with your head receiver from the G post to the L2 post; if you
get battery there is a cross; disconnect the red and white strands
of the desk stand cord, this will show whether the trouble is in the
desk stand cord or in the bell. If it is in the bell, disconnect No.
2 and No. 4 terminals of the induction coil, and test again, to prove
certainly that the trouble is in the coil itself and not in the wiring.
5th. If there is an auxiliary bell, and it is open, the set will test
as though it had an open ringer. Test by short-circuiting the L2 and G
posts, which cuts out the auxiliary bell and makes it a straight set
for the time being.
6th. If the ringer is short-circuited you will get battery through the
receiver, which can be detected by listening while you short-circuit
the receiver binding posts with your screw driver blade. To prove,
disconnect the bridge from the top of the bell, and connect the two
line wires to the L2 and G posts instead of the L2 and L1 posts;
short-circuit the condenser lugs with a test cord, and then bridge your
head receiver across the ringer terminals; if the ringer is all right
you will get a heavy click, if it is completely short-circuited you
will get no click at all, if it is partially short-circuited you will
get a partial click.
Bell Rings Weakly.
May be caused by:
Poor adjustment of armature or gongs.
Pivot screws too loose or too tight.
Clapper rubbing on guard.
Wiring interfering with the clapper stem.
“Whiskers” on the magnet heads.
Magnet heads sticky or gummy.
Desk stand cord, induction coil, or hook contacts crossed.
One or both coils of the ringer partially short-circuited.
Polarizing magnet weak.
Carbons in protector dirty and generator current jumping across them.
Trouble at the central office.
Bridge on the Line, Steady Light at Central Office.
Prove whether the trouble is in the instrument or not by disconnecting
both sides of the line at the top of the bell and going in with your
head receiver. If you get central the trouble is in the instrument and
the same will be found either in the wiring, desk stand cords, or the
hook. If opening the strap (see diagram No. 1) does clear the trouble,
the leak is across through the ringer, and must be due to:
1. Receiver contact of hook not breaking. If this is the case, opening
the receiver circuit at one of the receiver binding posts will clear
the trouble temporarily.
2. White and green strands of the desk stand cord crossed together. If
this is the trouble, disconnecting the cords from the bell will clear
it.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
3. The condenser must be short-circuited if the trouble is not in the
hook or cords; if the condenser is completely short-circuited, there
will be but one hook click, but often there is enough resistance in a
condenser short-circuit to give both hook clicks. To make sure that the
trouble is in the condenser itself, and not in the wiring, disconnect
one terminal of the condenser and go in series with your head receiver.
Instrument Entirely Dead, Nothing can be Heard
in the Receiver.
See first that you have battery at the top of the bell.
The trouble may be due to:
1. Receiver circuit open.
2. Receiver short-circuited.
1. If there is an open in the receiver circuit, it may be in either the
receiver itself, the receiver cord, the white strand of the desk stand
cord, the receiver contact of the hook, or the secondary; bridge your
head receiver successively around these parts, when you bridge around
the open you will get the side tones in the head receiver.
2. To prove whether a receiver is short-circuited or not, connect your
head receiver in series with it; if the head receiver responds while
another receiver in series with it does not, the other one cannot be
open, and therefore, must be short-circuited.
Transmitter out of Circuit, but Hearing not Entirely
Cut Out.
May be caused by:
1. Open in green strand of desk stand cord, transmitter or transmitter
wiring.
2. Transmitter short-circuited.
3. Red and white strands of desk stand cord crossed together.
1. No hook clicks, transmitter entirely dead, but can hear induction on
the line, and can hear the effect of short-circuiting the line at the
top of the bell indicates an open. Locate by connecting one terminal of
your head receiver to the L1 post, and feeling with the other terminal
successively on the several points of the transmitter circuit from the
L2 post to the hook; as soon as you pass the open you will cease to get
battery through the head receiver.
2. Strong hook clicks, transmitter entirely or nearly dead, but can
hear induction on the line and the effect of short-circuiting the line
at the top of the bell, indicates transmitter short-circuited. Open at
the transmitter and put your head receiver in series to see whether the
trouble is a short-circuit inside of the transmitter head, or a cross
of the transmitter cord or the green strand of the desk stand cord with
the frame of the desk stand.
3. Two hook clicks, but the transmitter dead and cannot hear induction
on the line, and cannot hear the effect of short-circuiting the line at
the top of the bell, and bell rings poorly or not at all, indicates red
and white strands of the desk stand cord crossed together which short
circuits the receiver while the hook is up. Disconnect the strap at the
top of the bell, and test as previously directed from the G post to the
L2 post; if you get battery the cord is crossed.
Transmission Poor.
May be due to:
1. Transmitter packed or otherwise bad.
2. Red strand of desk stand cord, primary, or hook contact open (in
which case the hearing will also be poor).
3. Primary or secondary reversed.
4. Primary and secondary crossed together (this will also affect the
hearing).
5. High resistance in the line or instrument.
1. When a transmitter is believed to be packed, call the wire chief,
being very careful not to shake it up or jar it, and get him to note
the way it transmits; then shake it up thoroughly, and see what the
effect is on transmission. When a transmitter is suspected of packing
but you fail to catch it in the act, you can sometimes pack it by
blowing gently into the mouth piece for a minute or so; but in making
this test be careful not to condemn a good instrument, as almost any
transmitter is liable to a certain amount of packing, and will come up
stronger immediately after having been shaken up.
When a transmitter is suspected of being otherwise defective a sure
test can be made by temporarily swapping faces with some other
instrument that is all right.
2. Only one hook click and weak side tones indicate primary or red
cord open. Connect one terminal of your head receiver to the L2 post
and test with the other successively on the L1 post, No. 1 and No. 2
terminals of the induction coil, red cord post in desk stand, hook
spring, and hook; as soon as you pass the open you will not get battery.
3. Examine 1 and 2, and 3 and 4 of the coil to see that they are
not reversed, that is, see that the numbers of the coil terminals
correspond with the numbers of the lugs that they connect to. If
the coil is reversed internally, so that the numbers correspond but
nevertheless one of the windings is wrong, it can only be detected
by the man at the other end. Call up the wire chief or go to another
instrument yourself and listen to the transmission from the suspected
instrument; if the coil is reversed the transmission will be muffled.
Prove by reversing either the primary or the secondary, which should
clear the trouble.
4. Test as previously directed for primary and secondary crossed
together.
5. Get the wire chief to test the resistance of the line, or test it
yourself as follows: Bridge your lamp on at the top of the instrument,
the lamp will burn rather dimly on an ordinary line, very dimly if it
is a long line, or an extension line from a private branch exchange
with a high resistance drops and retardation coils. (In the latter
case the test can be made better after the operator has plugged up the
line.) Next connect your line in series with the instrument, take the
receiver off the hook, and compare the brightness of the lamp while the
instrument is in circuit, and while it is cut out by short-circuiting
the L1 and L2 posts. If there is much difference noticed there is a
high resistance in the instrument. Forty ohms is a fair average for
the resistance of a central battery instrument, but it may be higher or
may be lower, it may run below 30 ohms. About 16 ohms of this is in the
primary and the rest is in the transmitter.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
To prove that there is no resistance in the soldered connections or
hook contact, short-circuit both the primary and the transmitter; this
should cut out all of the resistance and completely short-circuit the
instrument, so that you will get no battery from L1 to L2 posts when
the hook is up.
The resistance of a 24 volt test lamp is somewhere about 400 ohms cold
and 240 ohms hot.
Hearing Poor.
May be due to:
1. Receiver bad.
2. Receiver cord or white strand of desk stand cord bad.
3. Condenser open.
4. Primary and secondary crossed together.
5. Primary short-circuited.
6. Secondary short-circuited.
7. High resistance in secondary circuit.
There will be two hook clicks with any of the above troubles, but one
of the clicks may be cut down more or less.
1. Examine the receiver for dented diaphragms, “whiskers” on the
magnets, magnets too close to diaphragm, or magnets weak; test by
putting your head receiver in series with it and comparing the hearing.
2. To test the receiver cord and the white strand of the desk stand
cord, put battery through them and listen in the receiver for a cut out
or scratchy sound while you shake them. Short-circuiting the condenser
with a test cord puts battery through the receiver and its cords when
the hook is up.
3. If the condenser is open the ringer usually will not ring, but
sometimes you can ring through a condenser that you cannot hear through
at all. Test by short-circuiting it with a test cord.
4. Primary and secondary crossed together will usually short-circuit
the ringer and prevent your getting a ring. Test as previously directed.
5. If the primary is short-circuited bridge your head receiver around
it; you will get no click when the hook comes up, and no side tones.
If the primary is all right you will get both clicks and side tones in
your head receiver.
6. A short-circuited secondary can be tested by exactly the same method
as is given above for testing the primary.
The above tests work very well if the primary or secondary is
completely or nearly short-circuited, but if the short circuit is only
partial it is very hard to detect. If you are in doubt, change the bell
temporarily for another bell that is all right or change the induction
coil, and compare results.
7. To test for a high resistance in the secondary circuit, put battery
through it by short-circuiting the condenser with a test cord while
the hook up, then listen in the receiver while you short-circuit
successively the receiver hook contact, the two sides of the receiver
cord, the white strand of the desk stand cord, the wiring from receiver
cord to secondary, from secondary to condenser, and from condenser to
L2, and the secondary itself; when you short circuit out any part of
the circuit that contains resistance, such as the secondary itself,
more battery will flow through the receiver, giving you a click.
An instrument in which the ringer is not connected, will, of course,
give but one hook click.
Reversals in the connecting up of desk stand cords may cause only
one hook click or poor hook clicks, poor transmission, poor hearing,
transmitter nearly dead, etc., according to the combination in which
the three strands of the cord are connected.
If the ground side of the line is open outside the set may be put in
temporary service by working to a local ground.
If the induction coil is bad, temporary service can be given, if
necessary, by putting the transmitter and receiver in series, and
properly poling the receiver.
CHAPTER II.
TWO PARTY LINE.
No. 1 Set.
(The battery side of the line goes to the L2 post.)
Gives two hook clicks, and can be tested in very much the same way as
a straight set, but the following points should be remembered: on sets
that ring to ground an open ground will, like ringer open, cause the
bell not to ring and only one hook click.
Resistance in the ground may cause poor ring.
Reversal of the three wires on top of the bell may cause only one hook
click, bell not to ring, and transmitter nearly dead.
Transmitter very poor may be caused by the ground side of the line
being open outside. (You can still call the operator and talk, with
difficulty through the ringer and ground.)
No. 2 Set.
Gives but one hook click, but otherwise can be tested in very much the
same way as a straight set. Remember the following points:
On sets that ring to ground:
Ground open will prevent bell from ringing.
Resistance in the ground may cause poor ringing.
A ground on the ground side of the line may cause the bell to ring
poorly or not at all by taking the generator current off to ground
before it reaches the instrument.
Condenser short-circuited will not only put a ground on the ground side
of the line through the ringer, but on exchanges which use pulsating
current for ringing will also cause bell to ring poorly or not at all.
Reversals of the three wires on top of the bell may cause two hook
clicks, bell not to ring, and transmitter nearly dead.
On two-party sets, to find reversals of the wires at the top of the
bell, trace out the wire to the protector, or else find out with your
head receiver which one of the three wires is alive to both of the
others, or to an independent ground. This one is the battery side of
the line.
To test for reversal of the ground wire with the ground side of the
line, bridge your head receiver from an independent ground to the two
doubtful wires successively. You will get induction on the line wire,
and none on the ground wire. Or, bridge your receiver from the battery
side of the line to the other two wires successively; the one that
gives the most induction in this case is the ground wire. Or again,
test by bridging your lamp from the battery side of the line to the
other two wires successively. If the ground is good, bridging to it
will give a brighter lamp than bridging to the ground side of the line;
only a little brighter if the line is short, much brighter if the line
is long.
The above is also the way to test for a poor ground. The resistance
of the ground return back to the central office should be less than
the return through the cable, therefore the lamp should burn brighter
on the ground wire than on the ground side of the line; very little
brighter if the line is short, much brighter if the line is long.
An extension bell open will prevent the main bell from ringing, just
as in a straight set. Test by running a temporary ground, or by
short-circuiting out the extension bell.
If you are in doubt when testing a two party set, disconnect the ground
wire and strap the bell, making it a straight set temporarily, and
then test the ringing, transmission, and hearing. A straight set will
respond to all rings, direct, two-party, and four-party.
If on a two-party set the ground side of the line is open outside,
temporary service may be given, if necessary, by working to the local
ground.
If the ground is open, temporary service can be given, if necessary, by
converting to a straight set; but in this case the bells will respond
to both calls.
If second instrument is properly poled and bell rings when first
station is being called, the trouble is probably due to party at first
station taking his receiver off the hook before the operator has
stopped ringing, and vice versa.
CHAPTER III.
FOUR-PARTY SET.
(Diagram No. 3.)
Tests of the transmitting and hearing circuits can be made in very much
the same manner as in a straight set. On account of the relay coil
being bridged between No. 2 and No. 3 terminals of the induction coil,
a four-party desk set, if in perfect order, will give two hook clicks,
no matter how it is poled.
To make a perfectly sure test for primary and secondary crossed
together, it is necessary to disconnect one terminal of the relay
winding; then with the receiver on the hook, test from the L2 post to
the secondary with your head receiver; if you get current there is a
cross.
Reversals of the three wires at the top of the instrument may cause a
variety of troubles, just as in the two-party sets.
Ringing Circuit.
=Relay=: Failure of the relay to come up when the operator rings may be
caused by:
Condenser open.
Relay short-circuited or open.
Hook contacts, or red and white strands of desk stand cord, or primary
and secondary of induction coil crossed together.
Primary open.
Trouble at central office.
Test just as though it was a straight set except when testing for
relay short circuited, or for a cross between primary and secondary,
(in which case you must open one terminal of the relay winding, as
previously directed); and except when testing for relay open, which you
can do by bridging your head receiver from L2 post to No. 2 and No. 3
terminals of the induction coil successively; you should get strong
battery on No. 2 terminal, if the relay is all right and a strong
condenser discharge when you make contact, but a weak battery click
when you break contact, on No. 3 terminal.
A ground on the ground side of the line may also prevent the relay from
operating, by carrying the generator current off to ground before it
reaches the instrument.
If the relay is held up, usually the lamp is kept burning at the
central office also, and this means that current is flowing from the
central office over the battery side of the line, passing through
the relay winding, and returning to the central office over the
ground side of the line, or through the ground wire and ground. This
condition may be due to:
1st. Winding of relay crossed with frame. Test by disconnecting the “A”
or “B” terminals of the ringer from L2 which should release the relay.
2d. As in the case of current through the ringer of a straight set,
the trouble may be caused by receiver contact of hook not breaking,
white and green strands of desk stand cord crossed together, condenser
short-circuited. Test as though it was a straight set.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
If the relay vibrates continuously the winding is probably crossed with
the frame. To find out whether this is the case, disconnect the ground
wire, which should stop the vibrating.
If the relay “jumps” while the operator is ringing, instead of pulling
up and staying up as long as the ringing current continues, the relay
may be weak, due to a part of the winding being short-circuited out,
or to some other cause; or there may be too many bells and relays on
the line, so that, owing to the resistance of the line, not enough
generator current will flow over it to divide up and give each bell and
relay a proper amount of current; or there may be a slight ground on
the line, which carries off a part of the ringing current.
To prove that a relay is all right:
1. Short-circuit the condenser; this should hold up the relay, by
putting battery current through it.
2. Prove that the spring contact is not crossed with the frame as
follows: Disconnect “A” and “B”, then connect the frame of the
relay to battery with a test cord, and bridge from the spring
contact to ground with your head receiver; if you get no current
there is no cross.
3. Prove that the winding is not crossed with the frame as follows:
Disconnect “A” and “B” and then test with your head receiver from
the frame to the L2 posts; if you get no battery there is no cross.
=Ringer=: If the relay comes up, but the bell does not ring, the
trouble may be due to:
Ringer poled wrong.
Bias spring too tight or too loose.
Ringer open.
Ground open.
Ringer short-circuited.
Bridging your head receiver across the ringer while the operator is
ringing will show whether or not you are getting generator current on
the terminals of the ringer winding; going in series at the “A” and “B”
terminal will show whether or not you are getting current through the
ringer.
To prove whether a ringer is open or not, connect “A” to battery, hold
the relay closed, and then test from “B” to ground with your head
receiver; if you get no current the circuit is open; prove that the
open is in the ringer itself by testing direct from the two terminals
of the winding successively.
The ground can be tested in the same manner as on a two-party set.
To prove that the ringer is short-circuited, connect “A” and “B” across
the line, close the relay contact, and bridge across the terminals of
the ringer winding with your head receiver; if you get no click the
ringer must be short circuited; check this test by putting your head
receiver in series with the ringer, while it is connected across the
line, and closing the relay contact; this should give you a strong
click if the ringer is short-circuited.
=Bell ringing weak may be due to=:
Poor adjustment of armature.
Poor adjustment of bias spring.
Pivot screw too loose or too tight.
Clapper rubbing on guard.
Wiring interfering with clapper stem.
“Whiskers” on magnet head.
Magnet head sticky or gummy.
Polarizing magnet weak.
One or both coils of ringer partially short-circuited.
Too many bells and relays on the line.
Ground on one side of line which takes part of the generator current
off to ground before it reaches the instrument.
Trouble at central office.
Earth currents.
To test for earth currents bridge your head receiver from the ground
side of the line to the ground; you should get no current; if you do
get current you will probably find that it varies continually, being
due to trolley cars; report the matter to the chief inspector. In
making this test be sure that the line is not in use; if the receiver
is off the hook at any station on the line you will get a false test.
Earth currents very often cause bell troubles on suburban stations,
particularly those that lie near to trolley lines; but in the city,
earth currents are seldom noticeable.
=False rings may be caused by=:
Very strong earth currents.
One coil of ringer short-circuited.
If a biased ringer has one coil short-circuited, then when it is poled
for either 1st or 2d stations it will respond to both rings; and
likewise when poled for 3d or 4th stations it will ring with either
current.
In the bell diagram No. 3 you will see that “B” connects to the spring
contact of the relay, the frame of the relay connects to the biased
side of the ringer, and the unbiased side of the ringer connects to “A.”
In the older bells, “B” connects direct to the biased side of the
ringer; the unbiased side of the ringer connects to the spring contact
of the relay, and the frame of the relay connects to “A.”
Therefore, in connecting an extension bell to a set that has no
extension bell binding posts, connect one side of the wire to the frame
screw of the relay, under the bottom of the set, and the other side to
the post at the top of the bell that “A” connects with. Or solder one
of the extension bell wires to the spring contact of the relay, and
connect the other to the post at the top of the bell that “B” connects
with. In every case the auxiliary bell must be connected across the
terminals of the ringer without being bridged around the break of the
relay. Pole the extension bell by reversing the wires either at the
bell or at the set.
=Ringer Adjustments=: In adjusting a biased ringer find out the two
points where the bell ceases to ring on account of the bias spring
being too tight and too loose, and adjust the spring half way between
these points. To locate them, slack off the bias spring until it has
no tension at all, and then get the operator to ring while you tighten
up the spring, and note the point at which the bell commences to ring;
continue to tighten the spring until the bell ceases to ring; by making
the adjustment half-way between these two limits, you will have a
margin both ways, so that if the generator rises a little above or
falls a little below its proper voltage, the bell will still ring.
The little set screw in the yoke at one end of the armature should be
adjusted so as to hold the opposite or bias spring end of the armature
a little away from the head of the magnet core; 0.02 of an inch, which
is a little less than the diameter of a No. 22 cross-connecting wire,
“In every test use a little judgment.”
CHAPTER IV.
HOW TO TEST FOR AND CLEAR TROUBLES IN
PRIVATE BRANCH EXCHANGE SWITCHBOARDS.
=Station can’t call=: When a station can’t call, the trouble may be due
to the line being open, or too much resistance in the line; or to the
signal being open, or short-circuited, or stuck.
Short-circuit the line in the back of the switchboard or at correcting
frame; if the signal does not operate plug up the jack with a plug and
see if the cord signal will operate; if it will not the open is between
the frame and the springs of the jacks if the cord signal will operate,
the trouble is back of the jack springs, and may be an open, or it may
be that the drop is short-circuited or stuck. Test with a receiver or
lamp, if you get good battery on the locknuts but can’t throw the drop,
it must be short-circuited or stuck; if you get no battery there is an
open; short-circuit the inner contacts of the jack, and if this brings
up the signal the open is in the jack; take the jack out and repair it.
If short-circuiting the inner contacts will not operate the signal, the
same may be open; test from the ground strap of the jack direct to the
signal terminals; if the signal tests all right the wire leading from
one side of the signal to one inner contact of the jack must be open;
prove by short circuiting same out with a test cord.
If there is battery on the jack but the signal won’t come up, push
gently against the back of the armature of the signal with a tooth pick
until it starts to raise; you can tell by the feeling if it is at all
stuck.
Another good way to tell whether the signal sticks is to go to the
station and hold the receiver to your ear and then allow the hook to
raise. When the signal flies up it can be heard in the receiver as a
sort of “tremble.” This “tremble” should take place the instant the
hook comes up; if it is delayed, the signal must be sticking.
This test can also be made from the frame with a head receiver.
To test whether the signal is short-circuited, see how brightly your
lamp burns when connected at the frame and then compare with other
signals which are all right; a signal which is wholly or partly
short-circuited will have less resistance than the others, and the lamp
will burn brighter.
If the signal comes up from the frame but will not come up from the
instrument, the line may have too much resistance and the signal will
have to be adjusted so as to be more sensitive.
If a station on a long line has trouble calling at times, there may be
a poor connection in the circuit which varies; or it may be that the
signal fails to work only when the board is busy, due to the drop in
voltage on the battery feed when much current is being drawn from it;
the signal will have to be adjusted more delicately or the battery feed
increased.
[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
=Station Signal Stays up=: The line must be either crossed, or grounded
on the battery side. Plug into the jack with a detached plug and cord,
and then test successively on the ring and tip of the detached cord
with a receiver or lamp that is connected to battery. This will show
if there is a ground on either side of the line. If both sides test
clear of grounds, there must be a cross; to prove this, ground the tip
side by holding the tip of the detached cord on the tip of any other
plug; if there is a cross the ring side will then test grounded. To
locate the trouble, open the line successively at the frame cable box
instrument, etc., and note the effect on the signal.
In testing with a receiver for grounds or crosses on lines, you should
be guided by the click when you break contact; otherwise, you are
likely to be deceived by the electrostatic capacity of the line and
condenser in the instrument. In such tests you may get a strong click
when you make contact, particularly if the line runs through a cable,
and you may also get plenty of induction on the line; but if you do not
get a click when you break contact, there is no current flowing through
your receiver, and therefore the line is clear.
If plugging into the jack does not restore the signal, the trouble must
be a cross in the jack, or in the signal itself. Examine the jack lugs,
and also the inner end of the signal winding, which may be in contact
with the iron mounting strip. If the trouble is not here, disconnect
the wire going to the jack from the signal; this will show whether the
trouble is in the signal itself.
If the sleeve of a station jack is grounded, the cord circuit relay
will operate when you plug into the jack, and cut the battery off of
that pair of cords. Touching the tip of a plug to the sleeve of a
station jack with the listening key thrown will show if the sleeve
is grounded by giving a click in the operator’s receiver, the same as
touching the sleeve of a trunk jack will do. The ground may be due to
the sleeve being crossed with the sleeve of a trunk jack, or crossed
with the sleeve of a station jack that is connected to a trunk jack; or
it may be between the sleeve and the inner contact of the jack on the
ground side.
=Battery Feed and Trunks=: The battery feed and trunks must always be
poled properly. To test the poling of the feed, run a temporary ground
and touch it to the ring of the back plug. If this does not bring up
the cord signal the feed is poled wrong, and the feed and ground will
have to be reversed.
To test the poling of a trunk, plug into the trunk-jack with the front
plug of any pair, say No. 1 pair; then touch the tip of any other plug
to the ring of the back plug of No. 1 pair; if this does not bring up
the cord signal on No. 1 pair the trunk is poled wrong.
One of the troubles caused by the wrong poling of a trunk is that
if the operator plugs in to answer the trunk while she has another
listening key thrown, her transmitter goes dead.
If operator at the central office can’t throw a trunk drop at a private
branch switchboard the same may be open, or the condenser may be open.
Bridge a receiver across the drop; if you can get a good ring in the
receiver the condenser is all right and the drop is probably open. If
you can’t get a ring across the drop, short-circuit the condenser; if
this puts battery through the drop and brings it up, the condenser must
be open.
If a cord circuit relay fails to operate on any trunk, the ground strap
may be broken off of the jack. Plug up the jack, then touch the butt
of the plug with the tip of a plug of any other pair; if this operates
the relay, it shows that the sleeve of the jack did not operate it, and
therefore the sleeve connection must be open.
The sleeve connections are often taken off purposely on tie trunks.
If the operator complains of central cutting her off, some of the
holding coils may be open. Instructions are given further ahead for
testing them.
If plugging up a trunk causes the cord circuit relay to vibrate the
battery feed or ground must be open.
If the line or cord signals fail to come up properly the battery feed
may be weak; this may be due to a poor connection in the feed or
ground, or to one of the conductors of the feed being open, or to the
feed being grounded through resistance. Bridge a lamp across the feed;
it should burn brightly if no current is being used on the switchboard.
Throw a listening key, or bridge a receiver across the feed; if this
puts the lamp out, or dims it excessively, the feed or ground has a
high resistance on it, or some of the conductors are open. Disconnect
the conductors one at a time at the table head or protector, and see
if each one will light your lamp properly. If the lamp burns dimly
when no current is being used on the switchboard, the feed is probably
grounded through resistance; disconnect it from the switchboard and
test; if it still gives a dim lamp disconnect at the protector and test
again to prove whether trouble is inside or outside.
The amount that a lamp bridged across a battery feed will be dimmed
by throwing a listening key or bridging on a receiver depends upon
the resistance of the feed. If the feed is very long the lamp will be
dimmed very much; if the feed is short or consists of several pair, the
lamp will be dimmed but slightly. Each inspector should become familiar
with the behavior of the battery feeds on all his important boards; he
should know how the lamp burns when the board is idle, and how much it
is dimmed when a certain number of connections are up, so that in case
of trouble he can tell at once by a lamp test whether the feed is O.K.
or whether it has too much resistance, or is partially grounded.
Troubles Causing Bells to Ring.
A swinging open or swinging ground on the battery feed causes the bells
at the stations to ring by charging and discharging the condensers.
Generator feed crossed with the battery feed causes bells to ring.
Examine wiring and generator contacts at ringing keys.
Where the spring of a station jack does not break from, or is crossed
with the inner contact, all bells may be rung by ringing on that jack
with power generator, which is always grounded on one side.
If the outer contact of a ringing key makes before the inner contact
breaks, all bells may be rung when that key is used, by the generator
current passing down through one side of the retardation coil to the
battery feed.
Cord Circuit.
Tip and sleeve crossed causes vibrating relay on that pair.
Tip and ring crossed short-circuits the cord.
Ring and sleeve crossed causes relay to vibrate when ring and tip of
plug are short-circuited, or when the plug is put in a station jack
with the station receiver off the hook,—sometimes merely throwing the
listening key on that pair will make the relay vibrate.
Touching ring to tip and tip to ring of the two plugs of any pair
should give a spark, and the signal should also come up when the ring
of the plug is touched with a tip. If there is trouble, take any
other plug which is O.K. and test the bad pair; if both rings or both
tips fail to give a spark, there is probably an open at the relay,
the retardation coil, or the soldered connections on the listening
key. If only one cord tests open, and the other one of the same pair
tests O.K., ring on the bad cord and feel for generator current in the
plug. If you get current, the open must be at the inner contact of
the ringing key; or, it may be in the cord signal. If you cannot get
generator on the plug, the open is in the cord.
To locate any open that effects both cords, test successively on inner
contacts and swinging contacts of relay, inner and outer lugs of
retardation coil, and swinging contacts of listening key, you should
get battery across all of these points.
If either cord of a pair is short-circuited it short-circuits both
cords and you will not get proper sparks when touching ring to tip
and tip to ring but you may get small sparks. Also the operator’s
transmitter will be dead on that pair of cords and if you test with a
receiver or lamp you will get little or no battery between the ring
and tip of either plug, but will get battery of about half the proper
strength from either the ring or the tip of either plug to either the
ring or the tip of a plug of any other pair.
You can also tell whether a cord circuit is short-circuited by bridging
your receiver around one half of the retardation coil; if there is a
short-circuit, part of the current that is flowing around through the
coil will go through your receiver, giving you a click.
To locate the short-circuit, ring on the two cords successively, and
feel on the plugs for generator. If both cords test clear, the trouble
must be back of where the circuit branches at the listening key;
disconnect successively at the relay, the retardation coil, and the
listening key until you locate the trouble.
In most of the private branch exchange switchboards the battery goes
first to the inner contacts of the relay, then through the swinging
contacts to the retardation coil, and from the retardation coil to the
swinging contacts of the listening key; in other boards the battery
goes first to the retardation coil, then through the relay contacts to
the listening key. From the listening key it goes to the inner contacts
of the ringing key, and from the swinging contacts of the ringing keys
to the cord fasteners.
If a cord circuit is open at the relay or retardation coil, it will
still work on a trunk connection, the trunk supplying the battery, if
the central office is common battery system.
Lamp tests of the retardation coils and cord signals can be made by
bridging a lamp across the bus-bars and then short-circuiting the tip
and ring of every cord successively. Each one should dim the lamp
the same amount; if one cord dims it less than the others, it shows
that there is more resistance in that cord circuit—possibly a bad
connection, or a cord signal with too much resistance. If one cord dims
it more than the others, there must be less resistance in that cord
circuit, probably one half of the retardation coil is short-circuited.
(This test fails where there is a floater battery, or a battery feed of
very low resistance.) To prove that one side of the retardation coil is
short-circuited, short-circuit one of the plugs of that pair, and then
bridge a receiver successively around the two sides of the coil, no
click on one side should mean that that side was short-circuited.
A finer test can be made by bridging the lamp across the tip and
ring of the cord, and short-circuiting out the two sides of the coil
successively; each side should brighten the lamp exactly the same
amount. If one side brightens it more than the other, that side has
more resistance than the other.
Unbalanced coils are usually noisy, especially on long lines. An
unbalanced coil can usually be detected by simply listening on each
pair of cords, successively; if the battery feed induction is stronger
on one pair than on the other, that pair is probably unbalanced.
In most boards the holding coil is bridged across the outer contacts of
the relay. In other boards one end of the coil connects to one swinging
contact of the relay, and the other end to the opposite outer contact.
To test the holding coil, plug into a trunk jack with the back plug
and throw the listening key, which will bring up the cord signal, then
throw the listening key normal. If the signal stays up the holding
coil is O.K., if it disappears the holding coil circuit must be open.
The trouble may be that the relay contact does not close, or the coil
itself may be open.
Test by plugging into a trunk with the back cord and then
short-circuiting the holding coil; if the cord signal comes up
the holding coil must be open; if it does not come up, leave the
short-circuit on the coil and bridge out the holding coil contacts
of the relay. When you bridge out the contact where the open is, the
signal will come up.
To test the relay on any cord circuit, touch the tip of any other plug
to the sleeve of either plug of that pair; if this does not operate the
relay the sleeve conductor of the cord may be open; if neither plug of
the pair will operate it, the relay itself may be open; test with a
receiver or lamp.
Touching the tip of one plug to the sleeve of the other plug of the
same pair should make the relay vibrate.
To test a switchboard cord, plug into the cord testing jack (every
board should have a testing jack connected to put battery direct on
your head receiver) and shake the cord, and turn and shake the plug in
the jack, while you listen in the operator’s receiver for any cut-off
or bad connection. Do not have any listening key thrown while you
are testing switchboard cords; also see that the operator’s receiver
is poled so that the current from the cord strengthens the magnetism
instead of weakening it otherwise you will not get a sensitive test.
The tips and rings of the plugs must be clean, or else they will be
scratchy.
Be very careful that none of the plugs are bent or “lopsided;” such
plugs may work all right in some jacks and cut-off in others. If
turning a plug around in a jack causes a cut-off the plug should be
condemned; sometimes the jack may be at fault, and the long spring will
have to be given more “set.” After changing switchboard cords, always
test the new ones for opens, short-circuits and reversals.
=Cross-Talk=: Solder dropped on the cord fasteners, or a cross at the
keys, may connect two different cord circuits together, and cause
cross-talk between them.
Retardation coils may be crossed with their cases, and cause cross-talk
by the cases being in contact. Condensers on trunk drops may make two
trunks cross talk in the same way. Test by bridging a receiver from
the case of the suspected coil or condenser to battery and to ground
successively. There will be no click if the case is clear.
Unbalanced retardation coils, or a weak battery, may also cause
cross-talk.
A listening key that does not break contact on both sides will cause
cross-talk when that pair of cords is used; if with all keys normal you
get a click in the operator’s receiver when you touch the tip of any
plug to the frame of the operator’s transmitter, the operator’s circuit
is in contact with some cord circuit at the listening key. To find out
which key, see that all keys are normal and then vibrate the relay on
each pair of cords successively by touching the tip of one plug to the
sleeve of the other; when you come to the pair where the cross is, the
buzz will be heard plainly in the operator’s receiver; on the others it
will be heard very faintly.
=Operator’s Set=: To test the receiver cord, put a plug in the cord
testing jack, this puts battery through the receiver, and by shaking
the cord any fault will show up provided the receiver is poled
properly. Do not have any listening key thrown when making this test.
To test the transmitter cords, throw up any listening key and listen in
the operator’s receiver while you shake the cords.
To locate an open in the operator’s primary circuit, throw any
listening key, and then bridge a receiver successively around the
several parts of the circuit, that is, the 200 ohm resistance coil, the
transmitter, (including its cords), and the primary. When you bridge
around the part that is open, you will get a click in the receiver.
To locate an open in the secondary circuit, short-circuit out the
condenser so as to get battery through the circuit and then bridge
around the receiver and secondary with a receiver until you have found
where the open is.
=Buzzer and Buzzer Relay=: If a buzzer which works off the battery feed
fails to operate at times, although the buzzer relay comes up, probably
it is not sensitive enough, and when the board is busy the battery feed
it not strong enough for it. Adjust the buzzer more delicately and
test it when the board is idle and when it is busy. To make a board
busy artificially, bridge a head receiver across the bus-bars; that is
equivalent to several pairs of connections being up.
If some of the station lines are very long, the buzzer relay may fail
to come up on them, or come up so weakly as not to make good contact.
To cure this, adjust the relay more delicately.
If a trunk drop won’t operate the buzzer relay when the key is up, the
trouble is probably at the night bell contact of the drop. If none
of the trunk drops will operate it, the relay may not be adjusted
delicately enough, or the 500 ohm resistance coil may be open. Bridge
around the trunk drop contacts with a receiver. If you get no battery
the coil must be open; prove by bridging the coil out and repeating the
test.
A heavy ground on the ground side of any station line will prevent the
buzzer relay from coming up by shunting it out. A light ground will
sometimes cause trouble on the long lines only.
A short-circuited condenser or a slight leak across any line or lines,
may hold up the buzzer relay. Test the lines for crosses and grounds,
as previously instructed. If the buzzer relay comes up at times when
no signal is up, the trouble may be due to some station on a long line
trying to call, and the signal not sensitive enough to come up.
General.
To prove that a board is perfectly clear, disconnect the battery feed
from the negative bus-bar, and put a lamp or receiver in series. If you
get no current then all the lines are free from crosses, they are free
from grounds on the battery side, and the other circuits in the board
are also clear of crosses. (This test can only be made when there are
no connections up, no listening keys thrown, and no stations calling.)
To prove that the ground sides of all the lines are clear, disconnect
both the feed and ground wires from the bus-bars, and then test through
a lamp or receiver from the battery feed to the ground bus-bar; if you
get no current, the lines are all clear on the ground side.
INSPECTION
How to Inspect Subscribers’ Instruments.
1st.—Ask the subscriber if his instrument works properly and repair
any defect that he reports. Also be sure the instrument is securely
fastened to the wall or desk.
2d.—Clean and polish the varnished and nickeled parts of the
instrument; open the bell and see that it is clean and in proper
condition inside, and that the hook, ringer, and other moving parts
work properly and clean the hook contacts with paper if they are dirty
or make a scratching noise in the receiver.
3d.—See that all binding post connections are tight, test all cords; in
testing the receiver cord, put battery through it by short-circuiting
the condenser; change any cords or other parts that are defective or
unsightly.
4th.—Clean the receiver outside, remove the cap and examine the
diaphragm and clean the magnets; in cleaning the magnets rub them off
with your coat sleeve or a clean rag rather than with your hands, as
the moisture from your hand will cause them to rust.
5th.—Examine the adjustment of the bell and test by getting a ring from
the operator, at the same time test the transmission and hearing.
Test all extention bells by getting a ring from the operator; inspect
all other apparatus, such as hand generators, switches, local
batteries, fans booths and signs. It is important that signs should be
kept in good condition; dirty or unsightly ones should be cleaned or
ordered changed, and you should be particularly careful to see that all
signs are securely hung.
6th.—Inspect all wiring, including the leading in wires, the inside
line wires, the battery wires and the ground wires; also the
protection, the fuses, any extention bells and also see that the
ground is properly made that it is connected to the proper pipes. If a
gas pipe has been used see that the bridge on the meter has not been
disturbed since the last inspection.
7th.—See that the protector contains the proper kind of fuses, and if
it can be gotten at readily; examine the connections and remove the cap
from over the carbons to see that no one has left the carbons out.
8th.—If a subscriber applies to you to have an additional instrument
installed, take his name and address and turn them in to the manager;
if he wants his telephone moved or disconnected, or circuit number
changed, or extention bell or sign installed, request him to call up
the managers office.
If he complains of poor operating service, or of interference by other
subscribers on his line, refer him to the manager.
If he complains of some trouble that is in the outside line or at the
central office, report the matter to the chief inspector at once.
9th.—In making recommendations, state briefly but plainly just what you
want done and give the reason why. If the installer has done any work
at the station since your last inspection, and has failed to leave it
in proper condition, accompany the recommendation that you make with a
written complaint.
Making First Inspections of New Installations.
In inspecting a new installation, or an instrument that has been
moved or changed since your last inspection, or in going over your
instruments for the first time, the inspection should be made more
carefully than at other times.
Ask the subscriber if he has any extention stations, extention bells
or other apparatus attached to his instrument, also look out for them
while you are making the inspection and tracing out the wiring.
Open the desk stand and see that all the locknuts are tight and
soldered connections are perfect.
Examine and shake all soldered connections in the bell.
Trace out all of the wiring and be sure to see that all splices are
properly soldered and taped and see that no tacks are driven in the
splice.
Make a lamp or receiver test of the protector and the instrument
ground, to see that they are good and have no resistance.
See that the protector is securely fastened, that the connections are
all tight, that the fuses and carbons are of the proper kind, and that
the micas have the open side down.
Test the fuses for loose connections inside, by bridging your head
receiver across the binding post at the instrument end of the protector
and listening for a cut-off, while you shake and jar the fuses.
Test all switches to see that they make all proper connections, oil the
hand generators and see that the bell clapper works freely.
See that the specifications have been complied with in placing the
protector and the instrument, in running all the wire, and in every
other particular; that the desk stand cords are cleated, and protection
cleats used where needed; that desk sets give two hook clicks; that
snap switches are of the indicating type; that the connections to all
binding posts are neat and of proper length; that the booth is clean
and have plugs in all the screw holes; that they have no broken glass
and have linoleum on the floor, and that the doors and latches all work
freely.
See that the protector is placed so as not to be in the way of
curtains; that no damage has been done to the subscribers property;
that all apparatus has been installed so that it will not be in his
way, and will not be exposed to disfigurement, damage, trouble from
dampness or rain, etc., that wire is run where it will be safe from
injury, dampness and wear; in short, see that the installation is done
according to specifications in every respect.
See that the cut-in (the wires from the pole to the house) are properly
made and are of the proper kind of wire.
DON’T FORGET THAT YOUR REPUTATION AS AN
INSPECTOR IS AT STAKE.
FOOTNOTE
[1] Where reference is made to “hook clicks” in these instructions, the
instrument is understood to be a desk stand, wall sets are so connected
as to give only one hook click on raising or lowering the hook.
When reference is made to the red, white or green strand of the desk
stand cord, it is understood that the red goes to the hook, the white
to the receiver and the green to the transmitter, using the standard
Western Electric cord.
When reference is made to L1, L2 or G you will find them on diagram
No. 1 or No. 2. When reference is made to “A” or “B” you will find
them on diagram No. 3.
—————————————— End of Book ——————————————
Transcriber’s Note (continued)
Page 42 – “deskstand” changed to “desk stand” (Open the desk stand)
Page 43 – “lineoleum” changed to “linoleum” (have linoleum on the
floor)
Footnote – “G1” changed to “G” (When reference is made to L1, L2 or G)
The words “extension” and “extention” are used interchangeably throughout
the book and have been left unchanged. Some missing punctuation and other
minor typographical errors have been corrected without note.
The single footnote has been placed at the end of the book.
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