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Southern Australia, Volume I, by Charles Sturt
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Title: Two Expeditions into the Interior of Southern Australia, Volume I
Author: Charles Sturt
Posting Date: June 29, 2009 [EBook #4328]
Release Date: August, 2003
First Posted: January 8, 2002
Last Updated: July 28, 2002
Language: English
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWO EXPEDITIONS--SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA ***
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TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA,
VOLUME I
by
CHARLES STURT
TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA DURING THE
YEARS 1828,1829,1830,1831 WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOIL, CLIMATE AND
GENERAL RESOURCES OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
IN TWO VOLUMES
VOLUME I.
"For though most men are contented only to see a river as it runs by
them, and talk of the changes in it as they happen; when it is
troubled, or when clear; when it drowns the country in a flood, or
forsakes it in a drought: yet he that would know the nature of the
water, and the causes of those accidents (so as to guess at their
continuance or return), must find out its source, and observe with what
strength it rises, what length it runs, and how many small streams fall
in, and feed it to such a height, as make it either delightful or
terrible to the eye, and useful or dangerous to the country about
it."...SIR WILLIAM TEMPLE'S NETHERLANDS.
TO THE RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF RIPON, VISCOUNT GODERICH, Lord Privy Seal
&c. &c. &c.
MY LORD,
The completion of this Work affords me the opportunity I have long
desired of thanking your Lordship thus publicly, for the kindness with
which you acceded to my request to be permitted to dedicate it to you.
The encouragement your Lordship was pleased to give me has served to
stimulate me in the prosecution of a task, which would, I fear, have
been too great for me to have accomplished in my present condition,
under any ordinary views of ambition. Indeed, labouring as I have been
for many months past, under an almost total deprivation of sight, (the
effect of exposure and anxiety of mind in the prosecution of
geographical researches,) I owe it to the casual assistance of some of
my friends, that I am at length enabled to lay these results before
your Lordship and the public.
While I feel a painful conviction that many errors must necessarily
pervade a work produced under such unfavourable circumstances, it
affords me no small consolation to reflect that Your Lordship has been
aware of my situation, and will be disposed to grant me every
reasonable indulgence.
I have the honor to be, With the highest respect, My Lord, Your
Lordship's Very obedient and humble servant,
CHARLES STURT
London, June, 1833.
CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME
PRELIMINARY CHAPTER.
Purpose of this Chapter--Name of Australia--Impressions of its early
Visitors--Character of the Australian rivers--Author's first view of
Port Jackson--Extent of the Colony of New South Wales--its rapid
advances in prosperity--Erroneous impressions--Commercial importance of
Sydney--Growth of fine wool--Mr. M'Arthur's meritorious
exertions--Whale-fishery--Other exports--Geographical features--Causes
of the large proportion of bad soil--Connection between the geology and
vegetation--Geological features--Character of the soil connected with
the geological formation--County of Cumberland--Country westward of the
Blue Mountains--Disadvantages of the remote settlers--Character of the
Eastern coast--Rich tracts in the interior--Periodical droughts--The
seasons apparently affected by the interior
marshes--Temperature--Fruits--Emigrants: Causes of their success or
failure--Moral disadvantages--System of emigration recommended--Hints
to emigrants--Progress of inland discovery--Expeditions across the Blue
Mountains--Discoveries of Mr. Evans, Mr. Oxley, and others--Conjectures
respecting the interior.
EXPEDITION DOWN THE MACQUARIE RIVER, AND INTO THE WESTERN INTERIOR IN
1828 AND 1829.
CHAPTER I.
State of the Colony in 1828-29--Objects of the Expedition--Departure
from Sydney--Wellington Valley--Progress down the Macquarie--Arrival at
Mount Harris--Stopped by the marshes--Encamp amidst reeds--Excursions
down the river--Its termination--Appearance of the marshes--Opthalmic
affection of the men--Mr. Hume's successful journey to the
northward--Journey across the plain--Second great
marsh--Perplexities--Situation of the exploring party--Consequent
resolutions.
CHAPTER II.
Prosecution of our course into the interior--Mosquito Brush--Aspect and
productions of the country--Hunting party of natives--Courageous
conduct of one of them--Mosquitoes--A man missing--Group of hills
called New-Year's Range--Journey down New-Year's Creek--Tormenting
attack of the kangaroo fly--Dreariness and desolation of the
country--Oxley's Table Land--D'Urban's Group--Continue our journey down
New-Year's Creek--Extreme Disappointment on finding it salt--Fall in
with a tribe of natives--Our course arrested by the want of fresh
water--Extraordinary sound--Retreat towards the Macquarie.
CHAPTER III.
Intercourse with the natives--Their appearance and condition--Remarks
on the Salt or Darling River--Appearance of the marshes on our
return--Alarm for safety of the provision party--Return to Mount
Harris--Miserable condition of the natives--Circumstances attending the
slaughter of two Irish runaways--Bend our course towards the
Castlereagh--Wallis's Ponds--Find the famished natives feeding on
gum--Channel of the Castlereagh--Character of the country in its
vicinity--Another tribe of natives--Amicable intercourse with
them--Morrisset's chain of Ponds--Again reach the Darling River ninety
miles higher up than where we first struck upon it.
CHAPTER IV.
Perplexity--Trait of honesty in the natives--Excursion on horseback
across the Darling--Forced to return--Desolating effects of the
drought--Retreat towards the colony--Connection between the Macquarie
and the Darling--Return up the banks of the Macquarie--Starving
condition of the natives.
CHAPTER V.
General remarks--Result of the expedition--Previous anticipations--Mr.
Oxley's remarks--Character of the Rivers flowing westerly--Mr.
Cunningham's remarks--Fall of the Macquarie--Mr. Oxley's erroneous
conclusions respecting the character of the interior, naturally
inferred from the state in which he found the country--The marsh of the
Macquarie merely a marsh of the ordinary character--Captain King's
observations--Course of the Darling--Character of the low interior
plain--The convict Barber's report of rivers traversing the
interior--Surveyor-General Mitchell's Report of his recent expedition.
CHAPTER VI.
Concluding Remarks--Obstacles that attend travelling into the interior
of Australia--Difficulty of carrying supplies--Importance of steady
intelligent subordinates--Danger from the natives--Number of men
requisite,--and of cattle and carriages--Provisions--Other
arrangements--Treatment of the natives--Dimensions of the boat used in
the second expedition.
APPENDIX.
No. I. Letter of Instructions
No. II. List of Stores supplied for the Expedition
No. III. Sheep-farming Returns
No. IV. List of Geological Specimens
No. V. Official Report to the Colonial Government, (Jan. 1829.)
No. VI. Ditto (April 1829.)
ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE FIRST VOLUME
(Not included in this etext)
Native Burial Place near Budda
Vice Admiral Arthur Phillip
Cataract of the Macquarie
A Selenite
Chrystallized Sulphate of Lime
PRELIMINARY CHAPTER
Purpose of this Chapter--Name of Australia--Impressions of its early
Visitors--Character of the Australian rivers--Author's first view of
Port Jackson--Extent of the Colony of New South Wales--its rapid
advances in prosperity--Erroneous impressions--Commercial importance of
Sydney--Growth of fine wool--Mr. M'Arthur's meritorious
exertions--Whale-fishery--Other exports--Geographical features--Causes
of the large proportion of bad soil--Connection between the geology and
vegetation--Geological features--Character of the soil connected with
the geological formation--County of Cumberland--Country westward of the
Blue Mountains--Disadvantages of the remote settlers--Character of the
Eastern coast--Rich tracts in the interior--Periodical droughts--The
seasons apparently affected by the interior
marshes--Temperature--Fruits--Emigrants: Causes of their success or
failure--Moral disadvantages--System of emigration recommended--Hints
to emigrants--Progress of inland discovery--Expeditions across the Blue
Mountains--Discoveries of Mr. Evans, Mr. Oxley, and others--Conjectures
respecting the interior.
PURPOSE OF THIS PRELIMINARY CHAPTER.
When I first determined on committing to the press a detailed account
of the two expeditions, which I conducted into the interior of the
Australian continent, pursuant to the orders of Lieutenant General
Darling, the late Governor of the Colony of New South Wales, it was
simply with a view of laying their results before the geographical
world, and of correcting the opinions that prevailed with regard to the
unexplored country to the westward of the Blue Mountains. I did not
feel myself equal either to the task or the responsibility of venturing
any remarks on the Colony of New South Wales itself. I had had little
time for inquiry, amidst the various duties that fell to my lot in the
ordinary routine of the service to which I belonged, when unemployed by
the Colonial Government in the prosecution of inland discoveries. My
observations had been in a great measure confined to those points which
curiosity, or a desire of personal information, had prompted me to
investigate. I did not, therefore, venture to flatter myself that I had
collected materials of sufficient importance on general topics to
enable me to write for the information of others. Since my return to
England, however, I have been strenuously urged to give a short
description of the colony before entering upon my personal narrative;
and I have conversed with so many individuals whose ideas of Australia
are totally at variance with its actual state, that I am encouraged to
indulge the hope that my observations, desultory as they are, may be of
some interest to the public. I am strengthened in this hope by the
consideration that some kind friends have enabled me to add much
valuable matter to that which I had myself collected. It is not my
intention, however, to enter at any length on the commercial or
agricultural interests of New South Wales. It may be necessary for me
to touch lightly on those important subjects, but it is my wish to
connect this preliminary chapter, as much as possible with the subjects
treated of in the body of the work, and chiefly to notice the physical
structure, the soil, climate, and productions of the colony, in order
to convey to the reader general information on these points, before I
lead him into the remote interior.
NAME OF AUSTRALIA.
It may be worthy of remark that the name "Australia," has of late years
been affixed to that extensive tract of land which Great Britain
possesses in the Southern Seas, and which, having been a discovery of
the early Dutch navigators, was previously termed "New Holland." The
change of name was, I believe, introduced by the celebrated French
geographer, Malte Brun, who, in his division of the globe, gave the
appellation of Austral Asia and Polynesia to the new discovered lands
in the southern ocean; in which division he meant to include the
numerous insular groups scattered over the Pacific.
IMPRESSIONS OF ITS EARLY VISITORS.
Australia is properly speaking an island, but it is so much larger than
every other island on the face of the globe, that it is classed as a
continent in order to convey to the mind a just idea of its magnitude.
Stretching from the 115th to the 153rd degree of east longitude, and
from the 10th to the 37th of south latitude, it averages 2700 miles in
length by 1800 in breadth; and balanced, as it were, upon the tropic of
that hemisphere in which it is situated, it receives the fiery heat of
the equator at one extremity, while it enjoys the refreshing coolness
of the temperate zone at the other. On a first view we should be led to
expect that this extensive tract of land possessed more than ordinary
advantages; that its rivers would be in proportion to its size; and
that it would abound in the richest productions of the inter-tropical
and temperate regions. Such, indeed, was the impression of those who
first touched upon its southern shores, but who remained no longer than
to be dazzled by the splendour and variety of its botanical
productions, and to enjoy for a few days the delightful mildness of its
climate. But the very spot which had appeared to Captain Cook and Sir
Joseph Banks an earthly paradise, was abandoned by the early settlers
as unfit for occupation; nor has the country generally been fount to
realize the sanguine expectations of those distinguished individuals,
so far as it has hitherto been explored.
CHARACTER OF AUSTRALIAN RIVERS.
Rivers which have the widest mouths or the most practicable entrances,
are, in Europe or America, usually of impetuous current, or else
contain such a body of water as to bear down all opposition to their
free course; whilst on the other hand, rivers whose force is expended
ere they reach the sea, have almost invariably a bar at their
embouchure, or where they mingle their waters with those of the ocean.
This last feature unfortunately appears to characterize all rivers of
Australia, or such of them at least as are sufficiently known to us.
Falling rapidly from the mountains in which they originate into a level
and extremely depressed country; having weak and inconsiderable
sources, and being almost wholly unaided by tributaries of any kind;
they naturally fail before they reach the coast, and exhaust themselves
in marshes or lakes or reach it so weakened as to be unable to preserve
clear or navigable months, or to remove the sand banks that the tides
throw up before them. On the other hand the productions of this
singular region seem to be peculiar to it, and unlike those of any
other part of the world; nor have any indigenous fruits of any value as
yet been found either in its forests or on its plains.
He who has never looked on any other than the well-cultured fields of
England, can have little idea of a country that Nature has covered with
an interminable forest. Still less can he estimate the feelings with
which the adventurer approaches a shore that has never (or perhaps only
lately) been trodden by civilized man.
FIRST VIEW OF PORT JACKSON.
It was with feelings peculiar to the occasion, that I gazed for the
first time on the bold cliffs at the entrance of Port Jackson, as our
vessel neared them, and speculated on the probable character of the
landscape they hid; and I am free to confess, that I did not anticipate
anything equal to the scene which presented itself both to my sight and
my judgment, as we sailed up the noble and extensive basin we had
entered, towards the seat of government. A single glance was sufficient
to tell me that the hills upon the southern shore of the port, the
outlines of which were broken by houses and spires, must once have been
covered with the same dense and gloomy wood which abounded every where
else. The contrast was indeed very great--the improvement singularly
striking. The labour and patience required, and the difficulties which
the first settlers encountered effecting these improvements, must have
been incalculable. But their success has been complete: it is the very
triumph of human skill and industry over Nature herself. The cornfield
and the orchard have supplanted the wild grass and the brush; a
flourishing town stands over the ruins of the forest; the lowing of
herds has succeeded the wild whoop of the savage; and the stillness of
that once desert shore is now broken by the sound of the bugle and the
busy hum of commerce.
EXTENT OF NEW SOUTH WALES AND DIVISIONS OF THE COLONY.
The Colony of New South Wales is situated upon the eastern coast of
Australia; and the districts within which land has been granted to
settlers, extends from the 36th parallel of latitude to the 32nd, that
is say, from the Moroyo River to the south of Sydney on the one hand,
and to the Manning River on the other, including Wellington Valley
within its limits to the westward. Thus it will appear that the
boundaries of the located parts of the colony have been considerably
enlarged, and some fine districts of country included within them. In
consequence of its extent and increasing population, it has been found
convenient to divide it into counties, parishes, and townships; and
indeed, every measure of the Colonial Government of late years, has had
for its object to assimilate its internal arrangements as nearly as
possible, to those of the mother country. Whether we are to attribute
the present flourishing state of the colony to the beneficial influence
of that system of government which has been exercised over it for the
last seven years it is not for me to say. That the prosperity of a
country depends, however, in a great measure, on the wisdom of its
legislature, is as undoubted, as that within the period I have
mentioned the colony of N. S. Wales has risen unprecedentedly in
importance and in wealth, and has advanced to a state of improvement at
which it could not have arrived had its energies been cramped or its
interests neglected.
ITS ADVANCES IN PROSPERITY.
There is a period in the history of every country, during which it will
appear to have been more prosperous than at any other. I allude not to
the period of great martial achievements, should any such adorn its
pages, but to that in which the enterprise of its merchants was roused
into action, and when all classes of its community seem to have put
forth their strength towards the attainment of wealth and power.
ERRONEOUS IMPRESSIONS.
In this eventful period the colony of New South Wales is already far
advanced. The conduct of its merchants is marked by the boldest
speculations and the most gigantic projects. Their storehouses are
built on the most magnificent scale, and with the best and most
substantial materials. Few persons in England have even a remote idea
of its present flourishing condition, or of the improvements that are
daily taking place both in its commerce and in its agriculture. I am
aware that many object to it as a place of residence, and I can easily
enter into their feelings from the recollection of what my own were
before I visited it. I cannot but remark, however, that I found my
prejudices had arisen from a natural objection to the character of a
part of its population; from the circumstance of its being a penal
colony, and from my total ignorance of its actual state, and not from
any substantial or permanent cause. On the contrary I speedily became
convinced of the exaggerated nature of the reports I had heard in
England, on some of the points just adverted to; nor did any thing fall
under my observation during a residence in it of more than six years to
justify the opinion I had been previously led to entertain of it. I
embarked for New South Wales, with strong prejudices against it: I left
it with strong feelings in its favour, and with a deep feeling of
interest in its prosperity. It is a pleasing task to me, therefore, to
write of it thus, and to have it in my power to contribute to the
removal of any erroneous impressions with regard to its condition at
the present moment.
COMMERCIAL IMPORTANCE OF SYDNEY.
I have already remarked, that I was not prepared for the scene that met
my view when I first saw Sydney. The fact was, I had not pictured to
myself; nor conceived from any thing that I had ever read or heard in
England, that so extensive a town could have been reared in that remote
region, in so brief a period as that which had elapsed since its
foundation. It is not, however, a distant or cursory glance that will
give the observer a just idea of the mercantile importance of this busy
capital. In order to form an accurate estimate of it, he should take a
boat and proceed from Sydney Cove to Darling Harbour. He would then be
satisfied, that it is not upon the first alone that Australian commerce
has raised its storehouse and wharfs, but that the whole extent of the
eastern shore of the last more capacious basin, is equally crowded with
warehouses, stores, dockyards, mills, and wharfs, the appearance and
solidity of which would do credit even to Liverpool. Where, thirty
years ago, the people flocked to the beach to hail an arrival, it is
not now unusual to see from thirty to forty vessels riding at anchor at
one time, collected there from every quarter of the globe. In 1832, one
hundred and fifty vessels entered the harbour of Port Jackson, from
foreign parts, the amount of their tonnage being 31,259 tons.
The increasing importance of Sydney must in some measure be attributed
to the flourishing condition of the colony itself, to the industry of
its farmers, to the successful enterprise of its merchants, and to
particular local causes. It is foreign to my purpose, however, to enter
largely into an investigation of these important points. To do so would
require more space than I can afford for the purpose, and might justly
be considered as irrelevant in a work of this kind. Without attempting
any lengthened detail, it may be considered sufficient if I endeavour
merely to point out the principal causes of the present prosperity
(and, as they may very probably prove) of the eventual progress of our
great southern colony to power and independence.
STAPLE OF THE AUSTRALIAN COLONIES.
The staple of our Australian colonies, but more particularly of New
South Wales, the climate and the soil of which are peculiarly suited to
its production,--is fine wool. There can be no doubt that the growth of
this article has mainly contributed to the prosperity of the above
mentioned colony and of Van Diemen's Land.
At the close of the last century, wool was imported into England from
Spain and Germany only, and but a few years previously from Spain
alone. Indeed, long after its introduction from the latter country,
German wool, obtained but little consideration in the London market;
and in like manner, it may be presumed that many years will not have
elapsed before the increased importation of wool from our own
possessions in the southern hemisphere, will render us, in respect to
this commodity, independent of every other part of the world. The great
improvements in modern navigation are such, that the expense of sending
the fleece to market from New South Wales is less than from any part of
Europe. The charges for instance on Spanish and German wool, are from
fourpence to fourpence three farthings per pound; whereas the entire
charge, after shipment from New South Wales, and Van Diemen's Land,
does not exceed threepence three farthings,--and in this the dock and
landing charges, freight, insurance, brokerage, and commission, are
included.
GROWTH OF FINE WOOL. MR. M'ARTHUR'S EXERTIONS.
As some particulars respecting the introduction of this source of
national wealth into Australia may prove interesting to the public, I
have put together the following details of it, upon the authenticity of
which they may rely. The person who foresaw the advantage to be derived
from the growth of fine wool in New South Wales, and who commenced the
culture of it in that colony, was Mr. John M'Arthur. So far back, I
believe, as the year 1793, not long after the establishment of the
first settlement at Sydney, this gentleman commenced sheep-farming, and
about two years afterwards he obtained a ram and two ewes from Captain
Kent, of the royal navy, who had brought them, with some other stock
for the supply of the settlement, from the Cape of Good Hope, to which
place a flock of these sheep had been originally sent by the Dutch
government. Sensible of the importance of the acquisition, Mr. M'Arthur
began to cross his coarse-fleeced sheep with Merino blood; and,
proceeding upon a system, he effected a considerable improvement in the
course of a few years. So prolific was the mixed breed, that in ten
years, a flock which originally consisted of not more than seventy
Bengal sheep, had increased in number to 4,000 head, although the
wethers had been killed as they became fit for slaughter. It appears,
however, that as the sheep approached to greater purity of blood, their
extreme fecundity diminished.
TO REAR MERINO FLOCKS.
In 1803, Mr. M'Arthur revisited England; and there happening at the
time to be a committee of manufacturers in London from the clothing
districts, he exhibited before them samples of his wool, which were so
much approved, that the committee represented to their constituents the
advantages which would result from the growth of fine wool, in one of
the southern dependencies of the empire. In consequence of this a
memorial was transmitted to His Majesty's government, and Mr.
M'Arthur's plans having been investigated by a Privy Council, at which
he was present, they were recommended to the government as worthy of
its protection. With such encouragement Mr. M'Arthur purchased two ewes
and three rams, from the Merino flock of His Majesty King George the
Third. He embarked with them on his return to New South Wales in 1806,
on board a vessel named by him "the Argo," in reference to the golden
treasure with which she was freighted. On reaching the colony he
removed his sheep to a grant of land which the Home Government had
directed he should receive in the Cow Pastures. To commemorate the
transaction, and to transmit to a grateful posterity the recollection
of the nobleman who then presided over the colonies, the estate,
together with the district in which it is situated, was honoured by the
name of Camden.
EXPORT OF WOOL TO ENGLAND.
Since that time the value of New South Wales wool has been constantly
on the increase, and the colony are indebted to Mr. M'Arthur for the
possession of an exportable commodity which has contributed very
materially to its present wealth and importance. Such general attention
is now paid to this interesting branch of rural economy, that the
importation of wool into England from our Australian colonies,
amounted, in 1832, to 10,633 bales, or 2,500,000 lbs. It has been sold
at as high a price as 10s. per lb.; but the average price of wool of
the best flocks vary from 1s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. at the present moment. The
number of sheep in New South Wales alone was calculated in the last
census at 536,891 head. The ordinary profits on this kind of stock may
be extracted from the Table given in the Appendix to the first volume
of this work.
WHALE FISHERY.
Among the various speculations undertaken by the merchants of Sydney,
there is not one into which they have entered with so much spirit as in
the South Sea Fishery. The local situation of Port Jackson gives them
an advantage over the English and the American merchants, since the
distance of both these from the field of their gains, must necessarily
impede them greatly; whereas the ships that leave Sydney on a whaling
excursion, arrive without loss of time upon their ground, and return
either for fresh supplies or to repair damages with equal facility. The
spirit with which the colonial youth have engaged in this adventurous
and hardy service, is highly to their credit. The profits arising from
it may not be (indeed I have every reason to think are not) so great as
might be supposed, or such as might reasonably be expected; but the
extensive scale on which it is conducted, speaks equally for the energy
and perseverance of the parties concerned, in the prosecution of their
commercial enterprises. It has enabled them to equip a creditable
colonial marine, and given great importance to their mercantile
interests in the mother country.
In the year 1831, the quantity of sperm and black oil, the produce of
the fisheries exported from New South Wales, amounted to 2,307 tons,
and was estimated, together with skins and whalebone, to be worth
107,971 pounds sterling. The gross amount of all other exports during
that year, did not exceed 107,697 pounds sterling. Of these exports,
the following were the most considerable:
Timber 7,410 pounds
Butter and Cheese 2,376
Mimosa bark 40
Hides 7,333
Horses 7,302
Salt provisions 5,184
Wool 66,112
The above is exclusive of 61,000 pounds value of British manufactures
re-exported to the various ports and islands in the Southern Seas.
OTHER EXPORTS.
In this scale, moreover, tobacco is not mentioned; but that plant is
now raised for the supply of every private establishment, and will
assuredly form an article of export, as soon as its manufacture shall
be well understood. Neither can it be doubted but that the vine and the
olive will, in a short time, be abundantly cultivated; and that a
greater knowledge of the climate and soil of the more northern parts of
the colony, will lead to the introduction of fresh sources of wealth.
GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES.
Having taken this hasty review of the commercial interests of the
colony, we may now turn to a brief examination of its internal
structure and principal natural features.
I have already given a cursory sketch of the geographical features of
the whole continent. Of the vast area which its coasts embrace, the
east part alone has been fully explored.
A range of hills runs along the eastern coast, from north to south,
which, in different quarters, vary in their distance from the sea; at
one place approaching it pretty nearly, at another, receding from it to
a distance of forty miles. It is a singular fact, that there is no pass
or break in these mountains, by which any of the rivers of the interior
can escape in an easterly direction. Their spine is unbroken. The
consequence is, that there is a complete division of the eastern and
western waters, and that streams, the heads of which are close to each
other, flow away in opposite directions; the one to pursue a short
course to the sea; the other to fall into a level and depressed
interior, the character of which will be noticed in its proper place.
GREAT PROPORTION OF BAD SOIL.
The proportion of bad soil to that which is good in New South Wales, is
certainly very great: I mean the proportion of inferior soil to such as
is fit for the higher purposes of agriculture. Mr. Dawson, the late
superintendent of the Australian Agricultural Company's possessions,
has observed, as a singular fact, that the best soil generally prevails
on the summits of the hills, more especially where they are at all
level. He accounts for so unusual a circumstance by the fact, that
elevated positions are less subject to the effects of fire or floods
than their valleys or flanks, and attributes the general want of
vegetable mould over the colony chiefly to the ravages of the former
element, whereby the growth of underwood, so favourable in other
countries to the formation of soil, is wholly prevented. Undoubtedly
this is a principal cause for the deficiency in question. There is no
part of the world in which fires create such havoc as in New South
Wales and indeed in Australia generally. The climate, on the one hand,
which dries up vegetation, and the wandering habits of the natives on
the other, which induce them to clear the country before them by
conflagration, operate equally against the growth of timber and
underwood.
CAUSE OF THIS.
But there is another circumstance that appears to have escaped Mr.
Dawson's observation; which is the actual property of the trees
themselves, as to the quantity of vegetable matter they produce in
decay. Being a military man, I cannot be supposed to have devoted much
of my time to agricultural pursuits; but it has been obvious to me, as
it must have been to many others, that in New South Wales, the fall of
leaves and the decay of timber, so far from adding to the richness of
its soil, actually destroy minor vegetation. This fact was brought more
home to me in consequence of its having been my lot to spend some
months upon Norfolk Island, a distant penal settlement attached to the
Government of Sydney. There the abundance of vegetable decay was as
remarkable as the want of it on the Australian Continent. I have
frequently sunk up to my knees in a bed of leaves when walking through
its woods; and, often when I placed my foot on what appeared externally
to be the solid trunk of a tree, I have found it yield to the pressure,
in consequence of its decomposition into absolute rottenness. But such
is not the case in New South Wales. There, no such accumulations of
vegetable matter are to be met with; but where the loftiest tree of the
forest falls to the ground, its figure and length are marked out by the
total want of vegetation within a certain distance of it, and a small
elevation of earth, resembling more the refuse or scoria of burnt
bricks than any thing else, is all that ultimately remains of the
immense body which time or accident had prostrated. Thus it would
appear, that it is not less to the character of its woods than to the
ravages of fire that New South Wales owes its general sterility.
CONNECTION BETWEEN THE GEOLOGY AND VEGETATION.
Whilst prosecuting my researches in the interior of the colony, I could
not but be struck with the apparent connection between its geology and
vegetation; so strong, indeed, was this connection, that I had little
difficulty, after a short experience, in judging of the rock that
formed the basis of the country over which I was travelling, from the
kind of tree or herbage that flourished in the soil above it. The
eucalyptus pulv., a species of eucalyptus having a glaucus-coloured
leaf, of dwarfish habits and growing mostly in scrub, betrayed the
sandstone formation, wherever it existed, This was the case in many
parts of the County of Cumberland, in some parts of Wombat Brush, at
the two passes on the great south road, over a great extent of country
to the N.W. of Yass Plains, and at Blackheath on the summit of the Blue
Mountains. On the other hand, those open grassy and park-like tracts,
of which so much has been said, characterise the secondary ranges of
granite and porphyry. The trees most usual on these tracts, were the
box, an unnamed species of eucalyptus, and the grass chiefly of that
kind, called the oat or forest grass, which grows in tufts at
considerable distances from each other, and which generally affords
good pasturage. On the richer grounds the angophora lanceolata, and the
eucalyptus mammifera more frequently point out the quality of the soil
on which they grow. The first are abundant on the alluvial flats of the
Nepean, the Hawkesbury and the Hunter; the latter on the limestone
formation of Wellington Valley and in the better portions of Argyle;
whilst the cupressus calytris seems to occupy sandy ridges with the
casuarina. It was impossible that these broad features should have
escaped observation: it was naturally inferred from this, that the
trees of New South Wales are gregarious; and in fact they may, in a
great measure, be considered so. The strong line that occasionally
separates different species, and the sudden manner in which several
species are lost at one point, to re-appear at another more distant,
without any visible cause for the break that has taken place, will
furnish a number of interesting facts in the botany of New South Wales.
It was observed both on the Macquarie river and the Morumbidgee, that
the casuarinae ceased at a particular point. On the Macquarie
particularly, these trees which had often excited our admiration from
Wellington Valley downwards, ceased to occupy its banks below the
cataract, nor were they again noticed until we arrived on the banks of
the Castlereagh. The blue-gum trees, again, were never observed to
extend beyond the secondary embankments of the rivers, occupying that
ground alone which was subject to flood and covered with reeds. These
trees waved over the marshes of the Macquarie, but were not observed to
the westward of them for many miles; yet they re-appeared upon the
banks of New-Year's Creek as suddenly as they had disappeared after we
left the marshes, and grew along the line of the Darling to unusual
size. But it is remarkable, that, even in the midst of the marshes, the
blue-gum trees were strictly confined to the immediate flooded spaces
on which the reeds prevailed, or to the very beds of the water-courses.
Where the ground was elevated, or out of the reach of flood, the box
(unnamed) alone occupied it; and, though the branches of these trees
might be interwoven together, the one never left its wet and reedy bed,
the other never descended from its more elevated position. The same
singular distinction marked the acacia pendula, when it ceased to cover
the interior plains of light earth, and was succeeded by another shrub
of the same species. It continued to the banks of New-Year's Creek, a
part of which it thickly lined. To the westward of the creek, another
species of acacia was remarked for the first time. Both shrubs, like
the blue-gum and the box, mixed their branches together, but the creek
formed the line of separation between them. The acacia pendula was not
afterwards seen, but that which had taken its place, as it were, was
found to cover large tracts of country and to form extensive brushes.
Many other peculiarities in the vegetation of the interior are noticed
in the body of this work, but I have thought that these more striking
ones deserved to be particularly remarked upon.
GEOLOGICAL FEATURES.
If we strike a line to the N.W. from Sydney to Wellington Valley, we
shall find that little change takes place in the geological features of
the country. The sand-stone of which the first of the barrier ranges is
composed, terminates a little beyond Mount York, and at Cox's River is
succeeded by grey granite. The secondary ranges to the N.W. of
Bathurst, are wholly of that primitive rock; for although there are
partial changes of strata between Bathurst and Moulong Plains, granite
is undoubtedly the rock upon which the whole are based: but at Moulong
Plains, a military station intermediate between Bathurst and Wellington
Valley, limestone appears in the bed of a small clear stream, and with
little interruption continues to some distance below the last-mentioned
place. The accidental discovery of some caves at Moulong Plains, led to
the more critical examination of the whole formation, and cavities of
considerable size were subsequently found in various parts of it, but
more particularly in the neighbourhood of Wellington Valley. The local
interest which has of late years been taken in the prosecution of
geological investigations, led many gentlemen to examine the contents
of these caverns; and among the most forward, Major Mitchell, the
Surveyor-General, must justly be considered, to whose indefatigable
perseverance the scientific world is already so much indebted.
The caves into which I penetrated, did not present anything particular
to my observation; they differed little from caves of a similar
description into which I had penetrated in Europe. Large masses of
stalactites hung from their roofs, and a corresponding formation
encrusted their floors. They comprised various chambers or
compartments, the most remote of which terminated at a deep chasm that
was full of water. A close examination of these caves has led to the
discovery of some organic remains, bones of various animals embedded in
a light red soil; but I am not aware that the remains of any extinct
species have been found, or that any fossils have been met with in the
limestone itself. There can, however, be little doubt but that the same
causes operated in depositing these mouldering remains in the caves of
Kirkdale and those of Wellington Valley.
About twenty miles below the junction of the Bell with the Macquarie,
free-stone supersedes the limestone, but as the country falls rapidly
from that point, it soon disappears, and the traveller enters upon a
flat country of successive terraces. A schorl rock, of a blue colour
and fine grain, composed of tourmaline and quartz, forms the bed of the
Macquarie at the Cataract; and, in immediate contact with it, a mass of
mica slate of alternate rose, pink, and white, was observed, which must
have been covered by the waters of the river when Mr. Oxley descended
it.
From the Cataract of the Macquarie, a flat extends to the marshes in
which that river exhausts itself. From the midst of this flat Mount
Foster and Mount Harris rise, both of which are porphyritic: but as I
have been particular in describing these heights in their proper place,
any minute notice of them here may be considered unnecessary. We will
rather extend our enquiries to those parts of the colony upon which we
shall not be called upon to remark in the succeeding pages.
Returning to the coast, we may mark the geological changes in a line to
the S.W. of Sydney; and as my object is to extend the information of my
readers, I shall notice any particular district on either side of the
line I propose to touch upon, which may be worthy of notice. It would
appear that the first decided break in the sandstone formation which
penetrates into the county of Camden, is at Mittagong Range. It is
there traversed by a dike of whinstone, of which that range is wholly
composed. The change of soil and of vegetation are equally remarkable
at this place; the one being a rich, greasy, chocolate-coloured earth,
the other partaking greatly of the intertropical character. In
wandering over them, I noticed the wild fig and the cherry-tree,
growing to a much larger size than I had seen them in any other part of
the colony. Upon their branches, the satin bird, the gangan, and
various kinds of pigeons were feeding. Birds unknown to the eastward of
the Blue Mountains, were numerous in the valleys; and there was an
unusual appearance of freshness and moisture in the vegetation.
These signs of improvement, however, vanish the moment Mittagong range
is crossed, and sand-stone again forms the basis of the country to a
considerable distance beyond Bong-bong. At a small farm called the
Ploughed Ground, it is again traversed by a dike of whinstone, and a
rich but isolated spot is thus passed over. With occasional and partial
interruption, however, the sand-stone formation continues to an abrupt
pass, from which the traveller descends to the county of Argyle. This
pass is extremely abrupt, and is covered with glaucus, the low scrub I
have noticed as common to the sand-stone formation. A small but lively
stream, called Paddy's River, runs at the bottom of this pass, and
immediately to the S.W. of it, an open forest country of granite base
extends for many miles, on which the eucalyptus manifera is prevalent,
and which affords the best grazing tracts in Argyle. At Goulburn
Plains, however, a vein of limestone occurs, which is evidently
connected with that forming the ShoalHaven Gully, which is perhaps the
most remarkable geological feature in the colony of New South Wales. It
is a deep chasm of about a quarter of a mile in breadth, and 1200 feet
in depth. The country on either side is perfectly level, so much so
that the traveller approaches almost to its very brink before he is
aware of his being near so singular an abyss. A small rivulet flows
through the Gully, and discharges itself into the sea at ShoalHaven;
but this river is hardly perceptible, from the summit of the cliffs
forming the sides of the Gully, which are of the boldest and most
precipitous character. The ground on the summit is full of caves of
great depth, but there has been a difficulty in examining them, in
consequence of the violent wind that rushes up them, and extinguishes
every torch.
The open and grassy forests of Argyle are terminated by another of
those abrupt sand-stone passes I have just described, and the traveller
again falls considerably from his former level, previously to his
entering on Yass Plains, to which this pass is the only inlet.
From Yass Plains the view to the S. and S.W. is over a lofty and broken
country: mountains with rounded summits, others with towering peaks,
and others again of lengthened form but sharp spine, characterise the
various rocks of which they are composed. The ranges decline rapidly
from east to west, and while on the one hand the country has all the
appearance of increasing height, on the other it sinks to a dead level;
nor on the distant horizon to the N. W. is there a hill or an
inequality to be seen.
From Yass Plains to the very commencement of the level interior, every
range I crossed presented a new rock-formation; serpentine quartz in
huge white masses, granite, chlorite, micaceous schist, sandstone,
chalcedony, quartz, and red jasper, and conglomerate rocks.
It was however, out of my power, in so hurried a journey as that which
I performed down the banks of the Morumbidgee River, to examine with
the accuracy I could have wished, either the immediate connection
between these rocks or their gradual change from the one to the other.
I was content to ascertain their actual succession, and to note the
general outlines of the ranges; but the defect of vision under which I
labour, prevents me from laying them before the public.
CHARACTER OF THE SOIL CONNECTED WITH GEOLOGICAL FORMATION.
From what has been advanced, however, it will appear that the physical
structure of the southern parts of the colony is as varied, as that of
the western interior is monotonous, and we may now pursue our original
observations on the soil of the colony with greater confidence.
In endeavouring to account for the poverty of the soil in New South
Wales, and in attributing it in a great degree to the causes already
mentioned, it appears necessary to estimate more specifically the
influence which the geological formation of a country exercises on its
soil, and how much the quality of the latter partakes of the character
of the rock on which it reposes. And although I find it extremely
difficult to explain myself as I should wish to do, in the critical
discussion on which I have thus entered, yet as it is material to the
elucidation of an important subject in the body of the work, I feel it
incumbent on me to proceed to the best of my ability.
I have said that the soil of a country depends much upon its geological
formation. This appears to be particularly the case in those parts of
the colony with which I am acquainted, or those lying between the
parallels of 30 degrees and 35 degrees south. Sandstone, porphyry, and
granite, succeed each other from the coast to a very considerable
distance into the interior, on a N. W. line. The light ferruginous dust
that is distributed over the county of Cumberland, and which annoys the
traveller by its extreme minuteness, to the eastward of the Blue
Mountains, is as different from the coarse gravelly soil on the
secondary ranges to the westward of them, as the barren scrubs and
thickly-wooded tracts of the former district are to the grassy and open
forests of the latter.
As soon as I began to descend to the westward it became necessary to
pay strict and earnest attention to the features of the country through
which I passed, in order to determine more accurately the different
appearances which, as I was led to expect, the rivers would assume. In
the course of my examination I found, first, that the broken country
through which I travelled, was generally covered with a loose, coarse,
and sandy soil; and, secondly, that the ranges were wholly deficient in
that peat formation which fills the valleys, or covers the flat summits
of the hills or mountains, in the northern hemisphere. The peculiar
property of this formation is to retain water like a sponge; and to
this property the regular and constant flow of the rivers descending
from such hills, may, in a great measure, be attributed. In New South
Wales on the contrary, the rains that fall upon the mountains drain
rapidly through a coarse and superficial soil, and pour down their
sides without a moment's interruption. The consequence is that on such
occasions the rivers are subject to great and sudden rises, whereas
they have scarcely water enough to support a current in ordinary
seasons. At one time the traveller will find it impracticable to cross
them: at another he may do so with ease; and only from the remains of
debris in the branches of the trees high above, can he judge of the
furious torrent they must occasionally contain.
This seeming deviation on the part of Nature from her usual laws will
no longer appear such, if we consider its results for a moment. The
very floods which swell the rivers to overflowing, are followed by the
most beneficent effects; and, rude and violent as the means are by
which she accomplishes her purpose, they form, no doubt, a part of that
process by which she preserves the balance of good and evil. Vast
quantities of the best soil have been thus washed down from the
mountains to accumulate in more accessible places. From frequent
depositions, a great extent of country along the banks of every river
and creek has risen high above the influence of the floods, and
constitutes the richest tracts in the colony. The alluvial flats of the
Nepean, the Hawkesbury, and the Hunter, are striking instances of the
truth of these observations; to which the plains of O'Connell and
Bathurst must be added. The only good soil upon the two latter, is in
the immediate neighbourhood of the Macquarie River: but, even close to
its banks, the depositions are of little depth, lying on a coarse
gravelly soil, the decomposition of the nearer ranges. The former is
found to diminish in thickness, according to the concavity of the
valley through which the Macquarie flows, and at length becomes mixed
with the coarser soil. This deposit is alone fit for agricultural
purposes; but it does not necessarily follow that the distant country
is unavailable since it is admitted, that the best grazing tracts are
upon the secondary ranges of granite and porphyry. These ranges
generally have the appearance of open forest, and are covered with
several kinds of grasses, among which the long oat-grass is the most
abundant.
COUNTY OF CUMBERLAND.
If we except the valley of the Nepean, the banks of the South Creek,
the Pennant Hills near Parramatta, and a few other places, the general
soil of the county of Cumberland, is of the poorest description. It is
superficial in most places, resting either upon a cold clay, or upon
sandstone; and is, as I have already remarked, a ferruginous compound
of the finest dust. Yet there are many places upon its surface,
(hollows for instance,) in which vegetable decay has accumulated, or
valleys, into which it has been washed, that are well adapted for the
usual purposes of agriculture, and would, if the country was more
generally cleared, be found to exist to a much greater extent than is
at present imagined. I have frequently observed the isolated patches of
better land, when wandering through the woods, both on the Parramatta
River, and at a greater distance from the coast. And I cannot but
think, that it would be highly advantageous to those who possess large
properties in the County of Cumberland to let Portions of them. The
concentration of people round their capital, promotes more than
anything else the prosperity of a colony, by creating a reciprocal
demand for the produce both of the country and the town, since the one
would necessarily stimulate the energy of the farmer, as the other
would rouse the enterprise of the merchant. The consideration, however,
of such a subject is foreign to my present purpose.
It must not be supposed, that because I have given a somewhat
particular description of the County of Cumberland, I have done so with
a view to bring it forward as a specimen of the other counties, or to
found upon it a general description of the colony. It is, in fact,
poorer in every respect than any tract of land of similar extent in the
interior, and is still covered with dense forests of heavy timber,
excepting when the trees have been felled by dint of manual labour, and
the ground cleared at an expense that nothing but its proximity to the
seat of government could have justified. But experience has proved,
that neither the labour nor the the expense have been thrown away. Many
valuable farms and extensive gardens chequer the face of the country,
from which the proprietors derive a very efficient income.
COUNTRY WEST OF BLUE MOUNTAINS.
To the westward of the Blue Mountains, the country differs in many
respects from that lying between those ranges and the coast; and
although, its aspect varies in different places, three principal
features appear more immediately to characterise it. These are, first,
plains of considerable extent wholly destitute of timber; secondly,
open undulating woodlands; and, thirdly, barren unprofitable tracts.
The first almost invariably occur in the immediate neighbourhood of
some river, as the Plains of Bathurst, which are divided by the
Macquarie; Goulburn Plains, through which the Wallandilly flows; and
Yass Plains, which are watered by a river of the same name. The open
forests, through which the horseman may gallop in perfect safety, seem
to prevail over the whole secondary ranges of granite, and are
generally considered as excellent grazing tracts. Such is the country
in Argyleshire on either side of the Lachlan, where that river crosses
the great southern road near Mr. Hume's station; such also are many
parts of Goulburn and the whole extent of country lying between
Underaliga and the Morumbidgee River. The barren tracts, on the other
hand, may be said to occupy the central spaces between all the
principal streams. With regard to the proportion that these different
kinds of country bear to each other, there can be no doubt of the undue
preponderance of the last over the first two; but there are
nevertheless many extensive available tracts in every part of the
colony.
MEANS OF INLAND TRANSPORT.
The greatest disadvantage under which New South Wales labours, is the
want of means for conveying inland produce to the market, or to the
coast. The Blue Mountains are in this respect a serious bar to the
internal prosperity of the colony. By this time, however, a magnificent
road will have been completed across them to the westward, over parts
of which I travelled in 1831. Indeed the efforts of the colonial
government have been wisely directed, not only to the construction of
this road, which the late Governor, General Darling commenced, but also
in facilitating the communication to the southern districts, by an
almost equally fine road over the Razor Back Range, near the Cow
Pastures; so that as far as it is possible for human efforts to
overcome natural obstacles, the wisdom and foresight of the executive
have ere this been successful.
DISADVANTAGES OF DISTANT SETTLERS.
The majority of the settlers in the Bathurst country, and in the more
remote interior, are woolgrowers; and as they send their produce to the
market only once a year, receiving supplies for home consumption, on
the return of their drays or carts from thence, the inconvenience of
bad roads is not so much felt by them. But to an agriculturist a
residence to the westward of the Blue Mountains is decidedly
objectionable, unless he possess the means with which to procure the
more immediate necessaries of life, otherwise than by the sale of his
grain or other produce, and can be satisfied to cultivate his property
for home consumption, or for the casual wants of his neighbours. Under
such circumstances, a man with a small private income would enjoy every
rational comfort. But of course, not only in consequence of the loss of
labour, but the chance of accidents during a long journey, the more the
distance is increased from Sydney, as the only place at which the
absolute necessaries of life can be purchased, the greater becomes the
objection to a residence in such a part of the country; and on this
account it is, that although some beautiful locations both as to extent
and richness, are to be found to the westward of Bathurst, equally on
the Bell, the Macquarie and the Lachlan, it is not probable they will
be taken up for many years, or will only be occupied as distant stock
stations.
CHARACTER OF EASTERN COAST.
Since, therefore, it appears from what has been advanced, that it is
not to the westward the views of any settlers should be directed,
excepting under particular circumstances, it remains for us to consider
what other parts of the colony hold out, or appear to hold out, greater
advantages. The eye naturally turns to the south on the one hand, and
to Port Macquarie northerly on the other. It is to be remarked that the
eastern shores of Australia partake of the same barren character that
marks the other three. It is generally bounded to a certain extent by a
sandy and sterile tract. There are, however, breaks in so prolonged a
line, as might have been expected, where, from particular local causes,
both the soil and vegetation are of a superior kind. At Illawarra for
instance, the contiguity of the mountains to the coast leaves no room
for the sandy belt we have noticed, but the debris from them reaches to
the very shore. Whether from reflected heat, or from some other
peculiarity of situation, the vegetation of Illawarra is of an
intertropical character, and birds that are strangers to the county of
Cumberland frequent its thickets. There is no part of Australia where
the feathered race are more beautiful, or more diversified. The most
splendid pigeon, perhaps, that the world produces, and the satin bird,
with its lovely eye, feed there upon the berries of the ficus (wild
fig,) and other trees: and a numerous tribe of the accipitrine class
soar over its dense and spacious forests.
PORT MACQUARIE AND FIVE ISLANDS.
We again see a break in the sandy line of the coast at Broken Bay, at
Newcastle, and still further north at Port Macquarie; at which places
the Hawkesbury, the Hunter, and the Hastings severally debouche. Of
Port Macquarie, as a place of settlement, I entertain a very high
opinion, in consequence of its being situated under a most favourable
parallel latitude. I am convinced it holds out many substantial
advantages. One of the most important of these is the circumstance of
its having been much improved when occupied as a penal settlement. And
since the shores of the colony are how navigated by steam-boats, the
facility of water communication would be proportionably great.
I believe the Five Islands or Illawarr district is considered
peculiarly eligible for small settlers. The great drawback to this
place is the heavy character of its timber and the closeness of its
thickets, which vie almost with the American woods in those respects.
The return, however, is adequate to the labour required in clearing the
ground. Between the Five Islands and Sydney, a constant intercourse is
kept up by numerous small craft; and a communication with the interior,
by branch roads from the great southern line to the coast, would
necessarily be thrown open, if the more distant parts of it were
sufficiently peopled.
RICH TRACTS IN THE INTERIOR.
Recent surveys have discovered to us rich and extensive tracts in the
remote interior between Jervis Bay and Bateman's Bay, and southwards
upon the western slope of the dividing range. The account given by
Messrs. Hovel and Hume is sufficient to prove that every valley they
crossed was worthy of notice, and that the several rivers they forded
were flanked by rich and extensive flats.
The distance of Moneroo Plains, and of the Doomot and Morumbidgee
Rivers from Sydney, alarms the settler, who knows not the value of
those localities; but men whose experience has taught them to set this
obstacle at nought, have long depastured their herds on the banks of
the last two. The fattest cattle that supply the Sydney market are fed
upon the rich flats, and in the grassy valleys of the Morumbidgee; and
there are several beautiful farms upon those of the Doomot. Generally
speaking, the persons who reside in those distant parts, pay little
attention to the comfort of their dwellings, or to the raising of more
grain than their establishments may require; but there can be no doubt
this part of the interior ought to be the granary of New South Wales;
its climate and greater humidity being more favourable than that of
Sydney for the production of wheat.
PERIODICAL DROUGHTS; THE SEASONS AFFECTED BY THE MARSHES.
The most serious disadvantages under which the colony of New South
Wales labours, is in the drought to which it is periodically subject.
Its climate may be said to be too dry; in other respects it is one of
the most delightful under heaven; and experience of the certainty of
the recurrence of the trying seasons to which I allude, should teach
men to provide against their effects. Those seasons, during which no
rain falls, appear, from the observations of former writers, to occur
every ten or twelve years; and it is somewhat singular that no cause
has been assigned for such periodical visitations. Whether the state of
the interior has anything to do with them, and whether the wet or dry
condition of the marshes at all regulate the seasons, is a question
upon which I will not venture to give my decisive opinion. But most
assuredly, when the interior is dry, the seasons are dry, and VICE
VERSA. Indeed, not only is this the case, but rains, from excessive
duration in the first year after a drought, decrease gradually year
after year, until they wholly cease for a time. It seems not
improbable, therefore, that the state of the interior does, in some
measure, regulate the fall of rain upon the eastern ranges, which
appears to decrease in quantity yearly as the marshes become exhausted,
and cease altogether, when they no longer contain any water. A drought
will naturally follow until such time as the air becomes surcharged
with clouds or vapour from the ocean, which being no longer able to
sustain their own weight, descend upon the mountains, and being
conveyed by hundreds of streams into the western lowlands, again fill
the marshes, and cause the recurrence of regular seasons.
TEMPERATURE OF THE CLIMATE.
The thermometer ranges during the summer months, that is, from
September to March, from 36 degrees to 106 degrees of Fahrenheit, but
the mean of the temperature during the above period is 70 degrees. The
instrument in the winter months ranges from 27 degrees to 98 degrees,
with a mean of 66 degrees. However great the summer heat may appear, it
is certain that the climate of New South Wales has not the relaxing and
enfeebling effect upon the constitution, which renders a residence in
India or other parts of the south so intolerable. Neither are any of
the ordinary occupations of business or of pleasure laid aside at noon,
or during the hottest part of the day. The traveller may cast himself
at length under the first tree that invites him, and repose there as
safely as if he were in a palace. Fearless of damps, and unmolested by
noxious insects, his sleep is as sound as it is refreshing, and he
rises with renewed spirits to pursue his journey. Equally so may the
ploughman or the labourer seek repose beside his team, and allow them
to graze quietly around him. The delicious coolness of the morning and
the mild temperature of the evening air, in that luxurious climate, are
beyond the power of description. It appears to have an influence on the
very animals, the horses and the cattle being particularly docile; and
I cannot but think it is is some degree the same happy effect upon some
of the hardened human beings who are sent thither from the old world.
FRUITS.
As I have before observed, it has not yet been discovered whether there
are any indigenous fruits of any value in Australia. In the colony of
New South Wales there certainly are none; yet the climate is peculiarly
adapted for the growth of every European and of many tropical
productions. The orange, the fig, the citron, the pomegranate, the
peach, the apple, the guava, the nectarine, the pear, and the loquette,
grow side by side together. The plantain throws its broad leaves over
the water, the vine encircles the cottages, and the market of Sydney is
abundantly supplied with every culinary vegetable.
In a climate, therefore, so soft that man scarcely requires a dwelling,
and so enchanting that few have left it but with regret, the spirits
must necessarily be acted upon,--and the heart feel lighter. Such,
indeed, I have myself found to be the case; nor have I ever been
happier than when roving through the woods or wandering along one of
the silent and beautiful bays for which the harbour of Port Jackson is
so celebrated. I went to New South Wales as I have already remarked,
highly prejudiced against it, both from the nature of the service, and
the character of the great body of its inhabitants. My regiment has
since quitted its shores, but I am aware there are few of them who
would not gladly return. The feeling I have in its favour arises not,
therefore, from the services in which I was employed, but from
circumstances in the colony itself; and I yet hope to form one of its
community and to join a number of valuable and warm-hearted friends
whom I left in that distant part of the world.
REMARKS ON EMIGRATION.
On the subject of emigration, it is not my intention to dwell at any
length. My object in these preliminary remarks has been to give the
reader a general idea of the country, in the interior recesses of which
I am about to lead him. Still, however, it may be useful to offer a few
general observations on a topic which has, of late years, become so
interesting to the British public.
The main consideration with those who, possessing some capital, propose
to emigrate as the means of improving their condition, is, the society
likely to be found in the land fixed on for their future residence. One
of the first questions I have been asked, when conversing on the
subject of emigration, has consequently related to this important
matter. I had only then to observe in reply, that the civil and
military establishments in New South Wales, form the elements of as
good society as it is the lot of the majority to command in Great
Britain.
The houses of the settlers are not scattered over a greater surface
than the residences of country gentlemen here, and if they cannot vie
with them in size, they most assuredly do in many other more important
respects; and if a substantial cottage of brick or stone has any claim
to the rank of a tenantable mansion, there are few of them which do not
posses all the means of exercising that hospitality for which young
communities are remarkable.
But to sever the links of kindred, and to abandon the homes of our
fathers after years of happy tranquillity, is a sacrifice the magnitude
of which is unquestionable. The feelings by which men are influenced
under such circumstances have a claim to our respect. Indeed, no class
of persons can have a stronger hold upon our sympathies than those whom
unmerited adverse fortune obliges to seek a home in a distant country.
Far, therefore, be it from me to dispute a single expression of regret
to which they may give utterance. It must, however, he remembered that
the deepest feelings of anguish are providentially alleviated in time.
Our heaviest misfortunes are frequently repaired by industry and
caution. The sky clears up, as it were: new interests engage the
attention, and the cares of a family or the improvement of a newly
acquired property engross those moments which would otherwise be spent
in vain and unprofitable regrets.
DESCRIPTION OF IMMIGRANTS; MOST LIKELY TO PROSPER.
It cannot be doubted that persons such as I have described, whose
conduct has hitherto been regulated by prudence, and whose main object
is to provide for their children, are the most valuable members of
every community, whether young or old. To such men few countries hold
out greater prospects of success than New South Wales; for the more we
extend our enquiries, the more we shall find that the success of the
emigrant in that colony depends upon his prudence and foresight rather
than on any collateral circumstance of climate or soil; and to him who
can be satisfied with the gradual acquirement of competency, it is the
land of promise. Blessed with a climate of unparalleled serenity, and
of unusual freedom from disease, the settler has little external cause
of anxiety, little apprehension of sickness among his family or
domestics, and little else to do than to attend to his own immediate
interests. I should wish to illustrate the observations by two or three
instances of their practical bearing and tendency.
CASES OF EMIGRANTS; CAUSES OF SUCCESS OR FAILURE.
It was on my return from my second expedition, that I visited Lieut.
****** who resides in the southern parts of the colony. The day after
my arrival, he took me round his property, and explained the various
improvements he had made, considering the small means with which he had
commenced. At this part of our conversation, we came within view of his
house, a substantial weather-board cottage. "I trust," said I, turning
to him, "you will excuse the question I am about to ask; for your
frankness emboldens me to propose it, and on your answer much of the
effect of what you have been saying will depend. In effecting these
various improvements, and in the building of that house, have you been
obliged to embarrass yourself, or are they free from
incumbrance?"--"Your question," he said, "is a reasonable one, and I
will answer it with the frankness you are kind enough to ascribe to me.
I have ever made it a rule not to exceed my income. Mrs. ****** bore
our first trials with so much cheerfulness, and contributed so much to
my happiness and my prosperity, that I felt myself bound to build her a
good house with the first money I had to spare." I confess this answer
raised my host in my estimation, and it was a gratifying proof to me of
the success that attends industry and perseverance.
But let us look at another case. Mr. *** had a property to the N.W. of
Sydney, and having considerable funded means when he arrived in the
colony, he soon put his property into a state of progressive
improvement, and being in truth an excellent practical farmer, it
assumed the appearance of regularity and order. Had Mr. *** stopped at
this moment, he would have been in the enjoyment of affluence and of
every rational comfort. But instead of exercising prudent rules of
hospitality, he gave way to the natural generosity of his disposition,
entered into expenses he could not afford, and was ultimately obliged
to part with his estate. Now it is deeply to be regretted, that one
whose energies and abilities particularly fitted him for the life he
had chosen, should have failed through such conduct; and it is more
than probable, that if he had commenced with smaller means, and had
gradually improved his property, his fate would have been very
different.
I shall leave these cases without any further comment, convinced as I
am, that each of them furnishes matter for serious consideration, and
that they are practical illustrations of the causes of success or
failure of those who emigrate to the colony of New South Wales. And
although I do not mean to affirm, that the majority follow Mr. ***'s
example, I must venture to assert that thoughtlessness--useless
expenditure in the first instance--waste of time and other
circumstances, lead to equally ruinous consequences.
MORAL OBJECTIONS TO THE COLONY.
One of the greatest objections which families have to New South Wales,
is their apprehension of the moral effects that are likely to overwhelm
them by bad example, and for which no success in life could compensate.
In a colony constituted like that of New South Wales, the proportion of
crime must of course be great. Yet it falls less under the notice of
private families than one might at first sight have been led to
suppose. Drunkenness, as in the mother country, is the besetting sin;
but it is confined chiefly to the large towns in consequence of the
difficulty of procuring spirits in the country. There are, no doubt,
many incorrigible characters sent to settle in the interior, and it is
an evil to have these men, even for a single day, to break the harmony
of a previously well regulated establishment, or to injure its future
prospects by the influence of evil example. They are men who are sent
upon trial, from on board a newly arrived ship, and they generally
terminate their misconduct either on the roads or at a penal
settlement, being thus happily removed from the mass of the prisoners.
Frequently, however, men remain for years under the same master. They
become attached to their occupations, their hearts become softened by
kindness, and they atone as much as they possibly can for previous
error.
SYSTEM OF IMMIGRATION RECOMMENDED; ENCOURAGEMENT FOR EMIGRATION.
Still there can be no doubt, but that the evil complained of is
considerable. It is from this reason, and from my personal knowledge of
the southern parts of the colony, that I should rejoice to see its
flats and its valleys filled with an industrious population of a better
description of farmers. A hope might then be reasonably indulged, that
the Home Government would not be backward in recognising, and in acting
upon a principle, the soundness of which has been felt and acknowledged
in all ages, but the chief difficulty of which rests in its judicious
application. I allude to a system of emigration. Sure I am that if it
were well organized, and care were taken to profit by the experience of
the past in similar attempts, it could not fail to be attended with
ultimate success. The evils resulting from a surplus population in an
old community, were never more seriously felt than in Great Britain at
the present moment. Assuming that the amount of surplus population is
2,000,000, the excess of labour and competition thus occasioned by
diminishing profits and wages, creates, it has been said, an indirect
tax to the enormous extent of 20,000,000 pounds per annum. It has
appeared to many experienced persons, that it is in emigration, we
should best find the means of relief from this heavy pressure;
particularly if the individuals encouraged to go out to the colonies
were young persons of both sexes, from the industrious classes of the
community. Even if no more than three couples were induced to emigrate
from each parish in England in ten years, the relief to the springs of
industry would be very great. Besides, the funds necessary for this
purpose would revert to the country by a thousand indirect channels.
Persons unacquainted with our Australian colonies, whether Van Dieman's
Land or New South Wales, can form little idea of the increasing demand
for, and consumption in them of every species of British manufacture.
The liberal encouragement given by government to every practicable
scheme of emigration, and the sum advanced by it towards the expenses
of the voyage to the labouring classes, sufficiently indicate the light
in which the subject is viewed by the legislature; and the fact that no
private family taking out servants to Sydney, has in any one instance
been able to retain them, on account of offers more advantageous from
other quarters, shows clearly the great demand for labour in the
colony. If I might judge of the feelings of the majority of respectable
individuals there, from the assurances of the few, they would willingly
defray any parochial expenses attendant on the voyage, provided the
services of such individuals could be secured to them for a time
sufficiently long to remunerate them for such pavement. The tide of
emigration should be directed to Sydney, Van Dieman's Land, or Western
Australia, upon condition of the labourer's receiving a certain sum in
wages, and his daily subsistence from his employer, with an
understanding, however, that he must consider himself bound for two
years to such employer. Surely there are hundreds of our indigent
countrymen, who would gladly seek a land of such plenty, and cast away
the natural, but unavailing regret of leaving home to secure to
themselves and their families, the substantial comforts of life on such
easy conditions.
COMMITTEE FOUND AT SYDNEY.
It is not, perhaps, generally known that a committee has been formed in
Sydney, to advise settlers as to the best mode of proceeding on arrival
there. Such a plan is one of obvious utility; and if those who may find
themselves at a loss for information would apply to this committee for
advice, rather than to individuals with whom they may become casually
acquainted, they would further their own interests, and in all
probability ensure success. Still there are some broad rules upon which
every man ought to act, which I shall endeavour to point out, and it
will give me no ordinary satisfaction, if I should be the means of
directing any one to the road of prosperity and comfort.
HINTS TO EMIGRANTS.
It is to be feared that those who emigrate to New South Wales,
generally anticipate too great facility in their future operations and
certainty of success in conducting them; but they should recollect that
competency cannot be obtained without labour. Every trade--every
profession in this respect, is subject to the same law--the lawyer, the
physician, the tradesman, and the mechanic. This labour is required at
our hands, even in an old community; how much more then is it called
for in a new, where the ingenuity of men is put to trial to secure
those means of accomplishing their ends which here are abundant. Now,
it appears to me but consistent, that he who is obliged to leave his
native country from want of means to hold his station there, can hardly
expect to find, or rather to secure, abundance elsewhere without some
exertion. Every man who emigrates should proceed with a conviction on
his mind, that he is about to encounter years of labour and privation.
He will not then be disappointed at partial reverses, and will be more
thankful for unexpected prosperity. I feel persuaded the tone of mind
has a great deal to do with success, because it influences the conduct
of the individual. Supposing, however, that an emigrant has taken this
rational view of his situation, he should determine on his pursuits,
and allow nothing but absolute certainty of better fortune to turn him
aside. Men, however, landing at Sydney, in their eagerness for
information get bewildered, give up their original plans, adopt new and
uncertain speculations, trifle away both their time and their money,
and ultimately ruin themselves. An individual who goes to New South
Wales for the purpose of settling, should not remain in Sydney a day
longer than is necessary for the arrangement of his affairs. Every
shilling spent there is thrown away. The greatest facility is given by
the different departments of the Colonial Government to the settlers;
and it is entirely his own fault if he trifles away his time in search
of information elsewhere than at the fountainhead, or if he trusts to
any other opinion than his own, supposing him experienced as to the
quality of the land he may fix upon. Let him be speedy in his
selection, and fix himself upon his allotment as soon as possible.
Instead of overstocking his farm, or employing more labourers than he
can afford to keep, let him be satisfied with a gradual increase of his
stock, and wait patiently till he can better afford to employ labour;
above all, let him avoid embarrassing himself by the purchase of any
superfluous or unnecessary comfort. I consider that man has already
failed, who runs into debt in the first instance, or who exhausts his
means in the purchase of large herds, from the vain expectation that
their increase will clear him. The time was when those idle
speculations were occasionally attended with success, but such is not
now the case. The energies of the agriculturist are directed to their
proper channel, and if the few are unable to make rapid fortunes, the
many have escaped inevitable ruin. No farm in a state of nature can be
expected to yield any return of consequence for the first year. It is
incumbent on a settler to provide for his establishment, or to retain
the means of providing for it as circumstances may require.
Farming implements are as cheap in Sydney as in England. Horses and
cattle are cheaper. It requires little, therefore, to stock a farm in a
reasonable manner. On the other hand, the climate is so mild that the
want of a house is scarcely felt, and a temporary residence easily
constructed. On the whole I am convinced, that a man who regulates his
conduct by prudence, and who perseveringly follows up his occupations,
who behaves with kindness to those around him, and performs his social
and moral duties with punctuality, will ultimately secure to himself a
home that will make up for the one he has quitted in the land of his
fathers, and place him in as respectable and as happy a situation as
that which he there enjoyed.
*****
PROGRESS OF INLAND DISCOVERY.
Having thrown out the foregoing remarks for the information of the
general reader, and of persons who look to Australia with the more
earnest views of selecting a colonial home, I now return to the
immediate object of these volumes; but before entering on the narrative
of my own expeditions, I think it necessary to advert cursorily to the
discoveries previously accomplished.
The journeys of Mr. Oxley, far into the western interior of Australia,
gave rise to various and conflicting opinions as to the character of
the more central parts of that extensive continent, of which the colony
of New South Wales forms but a small portion. I feel, therefore, called
upon briefly to advert to the conclusions which that able and
intelligent officer drew from his personal observation of the country
into which he penetrated, as an acquaintance with his opinions will not
only tend to throw a clearer light on the following details, but will,
also, convey much necessary information to those of my readers who may
not have perused his journals. It is necessary, however, in order to
divest the subject of all obscureness, to trace, in the first instance,
the progress of inland discovery, in New South Wales, from the first
foundation of the colony to the period when Mr. Oxley's exertions
attracted the public attention.
In the year 1788, the British Government took formal possession of the
eastern coast of Australia, by the establishment of a penal colony at
Port Jackson. The first settlers, under Governor Phillips, had too many
difficulties to contend with to submit themselves to be thwarted from
pursuits essential to their immediate safety and comfort, by the
prospect of remote and uncertain advantages. It was by perseverance and
toil alone that they first established and ultimately spread themselves
over that part of the territory, which, flanked by the ocean on the one
hand, and embraced as it were by the Nepean River on the other, is now
entitled the County Of Cumberland. For many years, this single district
supplied the wants of the settlers. Upon it they found ample pasture
for their herds, and sufficient employment for themselves. Nor was it
until a succession of untoward seasons, and the rapid increase of their
stock pointed out to them the necessity of seeking for more extensive
pasturage, that they contemplated surmounting that dark and rugged
chain of mountains, which, like the natural ramparts of Spain and
Italy, rose high over the nether forest, and broke the line of the
western horizon.
MR. CALEY'S ATTEMPT.
A Mr. Caley is said to have been the first who attempted to scale the
Blue Mountains: but he did not long persevere in struggling with
difficulties too great for ordinary resolution to overcome. It appears
that he retraced his steps, after having penetrated about sixteen miles
into their dark and precipitous recesses; and a heap of stones, which
the traveller passes about that distance from Erne Ford, on the road to
Bathurst, marks the extreme point reached by the first expedition to
the westward of the Nepean river.
LIEUT. LAWSON'S EXPEDITION.
Shortly after the failure of this expedition, the sad effects of a long
protracted drought called forth a more general spirit of enterprise and
exertion among the settlers; and Mr. Oxley makes honorable mention of
the perseverance and resolution with which Lieut. Lawson, of the 104th
regiment, accompanied by Messrs. Blaxland and Wentworth, conducted an
expedition into the Blue Mountains. Their efforts were successful: and
the objects of their enterprise would have been completely attained,
but for the failure of their provisions at a moment when their view of
the distant interior was such as to convince them that they had
overcome the most formidable obstacles to their advance, and that in
their further progress few impediments would have presented themselves.
MR. EVANS' DISCOVERIES.
The success of this undertaking induced Governor Macquarie to further
the prosecution of inland discovery, and of attempts to ascertain the
nature of the country of which Mr. Lawson only obtained a glimpse. An
expedition was accordingly dispatched under Mr. Evans, the Deputy
Surveyor-General, to follow the route taken by the former one, and to
penetrate as far as practicable into the western interior. The result
was the discovery of the Macquarie river, and of Bathurst Plains. The
report of Mr. Evans was so favourable, that orders were immediately
issued for the construction of a line of road across the mountains.
When that was completed, the Governor went in person to fix the site of
a future town on Bathurst Plains. From thence Mr. Evans, who
accompanied the Governor on the occasion, was directed to proceed to
the southward and westward, to ascertain the nature of the country in
that direction. He discovered another considerable river, flowing, like
the Macquarie, to the west, to which he gave the name of the Lachlan.
The promising appearance of these two streams, and the expectation of
all parties that they would be found to water rich and extensive tracts
of country, led to the fitting out of a more important expedition than
any which had before been contemplated.
MR. OXLEY'S DISCOVERIES.
Mr. Oxley, the Surveyor-General of the Colony, was appointed chief of
this expedition, and was directed to trace the Lachlan and Macquarie
rivers, as far as practicable, with a view to ascertain their
capabilities and the nature of the country they watered. In 1817, Mr.
Oxley directed his attention to the former river, and continued to
follow its windings, until it appeared that its waters were lost in
successive marshes and it ceased to be a river. In the following year
he turned towards the Macquarie, and traced it, in like manner, until
he was checked by high reeds that covered an extensive plain before
him, amidst which the channel of the river was lost.
From what he observed of the country, on both these occasions, he was
led to infer that beyond the limits of his advance the interior had a
uniform level, and was, for the most part, uninhabitable and under
water. Its features must have been strongly marked to have confirmed
such an opinion in the mind of the late Surveyor-General. It stands
recorded on the pages of his journal, that he travelled over a country
of many miles in extent, after clearing the mountains, which so far
from presenting any rise of ground to the eye, bore unequivocal marks
of frequent and extensive inundation. He traced two rivers of
considerable size, and found that, at a great distance from each other,
they apparently terminated in marshes, and that the country beyond them
was low and unbroken. In his progress eastward, he crossed a third
stream (the Castlereagh), about forty-five miles from the Macquarie,
seemingly not inferior to it in size, originating in the mountains for
which he was making, and flowing nearly parallel to the other rivers
into a level country like that which he had just quitted.
DISCOVERIES OF MESSRS. MECHAN, HUME, HOVEL AND CUNNINGHAM.
Mr. Evans, moreover, who accompanied Mr. Oxley on these journeys, and
who had been detached by his principal from Mount Harris, to ascertain
the nature of the country in the line which the expedition was next to
pursue, having crossed the Castlereagh considerably below the place at
which the party afterwards effected a passage, reported that the river
was then running through high reeds. The inference naturally drawn by
Mr. Oxley, was, that it terminated as the Lachlan and the Macquarie had
done; and that their united waters formed an inland sea or basin. It is
evident that Mr. Oxley had this impression on his mind, when he turned
towards the coast; but the wet state of the lowlands prevented him from
ascertaining its correctness or error. Doubt, consequently, still
existed as to the nature of the country he had left behind him; a
question in which the best interests of the colony were apparently
involved. Subsequently to these discoveries, Mr. Surveyor Mechan,
accompanied by Mr. Hamilton Hume, a colonist of considerable
experience, explored the country more to the southward and westward of
Sydney, and discovered most of the new country called Argyle, and also
Lake Bathurst.
Mr. Hume was afterwards associated with a Mr. Hovel, in an excursion to
the south coast, under the auspices of Sir Thomas Brisbane. After a
most persevering and laborious journey, they reached the sea; but it is
uncertain whether they made Port Philips, or Western Port. Mr. Hume,
whose practical experience will yield to that of no man, entertains a
conviction that it was to the former they descended from the
neighbouring ranges; but Mr. Hovel, I believe supports a contrary
opinion. In the early stage of their journey, they passed over York or
Yass Plains; and, after crossing the Morumbidgee, were generally
entangled among mountain ranges that increased in height to the east
and south-east. They crossed three considerable rivers, falling
westerly, which they named the Goulburn, the Hume, and the Ovens; and
found a beautiful and well-watered country in the vicinity of the coast.
In 1826, Mr. Allan Cunningham, Botanical Collector to his late Majesty,
traversed a considerable portion of the interior to the north of
Bathurst, and, with a laudable zeal, devoted his labours to the
acquisition of general information, as well as to his more immediate
professional pursuits. In 1827, this gentleman again bent his steps
towards the northward, and succeeded in gaining the 28th parallel of
latitude; and, on a subsequent occasion, having taken his departure
from Moreton Bay, he connected his former journey with that settlement,
and thus contributed largely to our knowledge of the mountain country
between it and the capital. Mr. Cunningham, who, independently of his
individual excursions, had not only circumnavigated the Australian
Continent with Capt. King, but had formed also one of the party with
Mr. Oxley, in the journeys before noticed, had adopted this gentleman's
opinion with regard to the swampy and inhospitable character of the
distant interior. Its depressed appearance from the high ground on
which Mr. Cunningham subsequently moved, tended to confirm this
opinion, which was moreover daily gaining strength from the reports of
the natives, who became more frequent in their intercourse with the
whites, and who reported that there were large waters to the westward,
on which the natives had canoes, and in which there were fish of great
size.
It became, therefore, a current opinion, that the western interior of
New Holland comprehended an extensive basin, of which the ocean of
reeds which had proved so formidable to Mr. Oxley, formed most probably
the outskirts; and it was generally thought that an expedition
proceeding into the interior, would encounter marshes of vast extent,
which would be extremely difficult to turn, and no less dangerous to
enter.
It remained to be proved, however, whether these conjectures were
founded in fact. The chief difficulty lay in the character of the
country, and in providing the necessary means to ensure success. Those
which were resorted to will be found in the succeeding chapter. Whether
they would have been found sufficient and applicable had the interior
been wholly under water, is doubtful; and my impression on this point
induced me to make more efficient arrangements on the second expedition.
EXPEDITION DOWN THE BANKS OF THE MACQUARIE RIVER in 1828 and 1829.
CHAPTER I.
State of the Colony in 1828-29--Objects of the Expedition--Departure
from Sydney--Wellington Valley--Progress down the Macquarie--Arrival at
Mount Harris--Stopped by the marshes--Encamp amidst reeds--Excursions
down the river--Its termination--Appearance of the marshes--Opthalmic
affection of the men--Mr. Hume's successful journey to the
northward--Journey across the plain--Second great
marsh--Perplexities--Situation of the exploring party--Consequent
resolutions.
The year 1826 was remarkable for the commencement of one of those
fearful droughts to which we have reason to believe the climate of New
South Wales is periodically subject. It continued during the two
following years with unabated severity. The surface of the earth became
so parched up that minor vegetation ceased upon it. Culinary herbs were
raised with difficulty, and crops failed even in the most favourable
situations. Settlers drove their flocks and herds to distant tracts for
pasture and water, neither remaining for them in the located districts.
The interior suffered equally with the coast, and men, at length, began
to despond under so alarming a visitation. It almost appeared as if the
Australian sky were never again to be traversed by a cloud.
OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION.
But, however severe for the colony the seasons had proved, or were
likely to prove, it was borne in mind at this critical moment, that the
wet and swampy state of the interior had alone prevented Mr. Oxley from
penetrating further into it, in 1818. Each successive report from
Wellington Valley, the most distant settlement to the N. W., confirmed
the news of the unusually dry state of the lowlands, and of the
exhausted appearance of the streams falling into them. It was,
consequently, hoped that an expedition, pursuing the line of the
Macquarie, would have a greater chance of success than the late
Surveyor General had; and that the difficulties he had to contend
against would be found to be greatly diminished, if not altogether
removed. The immediate fitting out of an expedition was therefore
decided upon, for the express purpose of ascertaining the nature and
extent of that basin into which the Macquarie was supposed to fall, and
whether any connection existed between it and the streams falling
westerly. As I had early taken a great interest in the geography of New
South Wales, the Governor was pleased to appoint me to the command of
this expedition.
JOURNEY FROM SYDNEY TO EMU PLAINS.
In the month of September, 1828, I received his Excellency's commands
to prepare for my journey; and by the commencement of November, had
organised my party, and completed the necessary arrangements. On the
9th of that month, I waited on the Governor, at Parramatta, to receive
his definitive instructions. As the establishments at Sydney had been
unable to supply me with the necessary number of horses and oxen,
instructions had been forwarded to Mr. Maxwell, the superintendent of
Wellington Valley, to train a certain number for my use; and I was now
directed to push for that settlement without loss of time. I returned
to Sydney in the afternoon of the 9th, and on the 10th took leave of my
brother officers, to commence a journey of very dubious issue; and, in
company with my friend, Staff-surgeon M'Leod, who had obtained
permission to accompany me to the limits of the colony, followed my men
along the great western road. We moved leisurely over the level
country, between the coast and the Nepean River, and availed ourselves
of the kind hospitality of those of our friends whose property lay
along that line of road, to secure more comfortable places of rest than
the inns would have afforded.
We reached Sheane, the residence of Dr. Harris, on the 11th, and were
received by him with the characteristic kindness with which friends or
strangers are ever welcomed by that gentleman, He had accompanied Mr.
Oxley as a volunteer in 1818, and his name was then given to the mount
which formed the extreme point to which the main body of the first
expedition down the banks of the Macquarie penetrated, in a westerly
direction.
The general appearance of the property of Dr. Harris, showed how much
perseverance and labour had effected towards its improvement. Many
acres of ground bore a promising crop, over which a gloomy forest had
once waved. The Doctor's farming establishment was as complete as his
husbandry seemed to be prosperous; but he did not appear to be
satisfied with the extent of his dwelling, to which he was making
considerable additions, although I should have thought it large enough
for all ordinary purposes of residence or hospitality. The rewards of
successful industry were everywhere visible.
FROM EMU PLAINS TO WELLINGTON VALLEY.
On the 13th, we gained Regent's Ville, the more splendid mansion of Sir
John Jamieson, which overlooks the Nepean River, and commands the most
beautiful and extensive views of the Blue Mountains. Crossing the ford
on the 14th, we overtook the men as they were toiling up the first
ascent of those rugged bulwarks, which certainly gave no favourable
earnest of the road before us; and, as we could scarcely hope to reach
the level country to the westward without the occurrence of some
accident, I determined to keep near the drays, that I might be on hand
should my presence be required. We gained O'Connell's plains on the
20th November, and arrived at Bathurst on the 22nd, with no other
damage than the loss of one of the props supporting the boat which
snapped in two as we descended Mount York. On examination, it was found
that the boat had also received a slight contusion, but it admitted of
easy repair.
I was detained at Bathurst longer than I intended, in consequence of
indisposition, and during my stay there experienced many proofs of the
kind hospitality of the settlers of that promising district: nor was I
ever more impressed with the importance of the service upon which I was
employed, or more anxious as to the issue, than while contemplating the
rapid advance of agriculture upon its plains, and the formidable bar to
its prosperity which I had left behind me, in the dark and gloomy
ranges which I had crossed.
On the 27th, Mr. Hamilton Hume, whose experience well qualified him for
the task, and who had been associated with me in the expedition, having
joined me, we proceeded on our journey, and reached Wellington Valley
about the end of the month.
WELLINGTON VALLEY.
I wished to push into the interior without any delay, or at least, so
soon as we should have completed our arrangements and organized the
party; but, although Mr. Maxwell had paid every attention to the
training of the cattle, he was of opinion that they could not yet be
wholly relied upon, and strongly recommended that they should be kept
at practice for another week. As we could not have left the settlement
under the most favourable circumstances in less than four days, the
further delay attendant on this measure was considered immaterial, and
it was, accordingly, determined upon. Mr. Hume undertook to superintend
the training of the animals, and this left me at leisure to gather such
information as would be of use to us in our progress down the river.
In his description of Wellington Valley, Mr. Oxley has not done it more
than justice. It is certainly a beautiful and fertile spot, and it was
now abundant in pasturage, notwithstanding the unfavourable season that
had passed over it.
The settlement stands upon the right bank of the Bell, about two miles
above the junction of that stream with the Macquarie. Its whitewashed
buildings bore outward testimony to the cleanliness and regularity of
the inhabitants; and the respectful conduct of the prisoners under his
charge, showed that Mr. Maxwell had maintained that discipline by which
alone he could have secured respect to himself and success to his
exertions, at such a distance from the seat of government.
The weather was so exceedingly hot, during our stay, that it was
impossible to take exercise at noon; but in the evening, or at an early
hour in the morning, we were enabled to make short excursions in the
neighbourhood.
Mr. Maxwell informed me that there were three stations below the
settlement, the first of which, called Gobawlin, belonging to Mr.
Wylde, was not more than five miles from it; the other two, occupied by
Mr. Palmer, were at a greater distance, one being nineteen, the other
thirty-four miles below the junction of the Bell. He was good enough to
send for the stockman (or chief herdsman), in charge of the last, to
give me such information of the nature of the country below him, as he
could furnish from personal knowledge or from the accounts of the
natives.
LOW STATE OF THE MACQUARIE RIVER.
Mr. Maxwell pointed out to me the spot on which Mr. Oxley's boats had
been built, close upon the bank of the Macquarie; and I could not but
reflect with some degree of apprehension on the singularly diminished
state of the river from what it must then have been to allow a boat to
pass down it. Instead of a broad stream and a rapid current, the stream
was confined to a narrow space in the centre of the channel, and it ran
so feebly amidst frequent shallows that it was often scarcely
perceptible. The Bell, also, which Mr. Oxley describes as dashing and
rippling along its pebbly bed, had ceased to flow, and consisted merely
of a chain of ponds.
On the 3rd of Dec, the stockman from below arrived; but the only
information we gathered from him was the existence of a lake to the
left of the river, about three days' journey below the run of his
herds, on the banks of which he assured us, the native companions, a
species of stork, stood in rows like companies of soldiers.
He brought up a nest of small paroquets of the most beautiful plumage,
as a present to Mr. Maxwell, and affirmed that they were common about
his part of the river. The peculiarity of the seasons had also brought
a parrot into the valley which had never before visited it. This
delicate bird was noticed by Captain Cook upon the coast, and is called
PSITTACUS NOVAE HOLLANDIAE, or New Holland Parrot, by Mr. Brown. It had
not, however, been subsequently seen until the summer of 1828, when it
made its appearance at Wellington Valley in considerable numbers,
together with a species of merops or mountain bee-eater.
DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR.
On the 5th, our preparations being wholly completed, and the loads
arranged, the party was mustered, and was found to consist of myself
and Mr. Hume, two soldiers and eight prisoners of the crown, two of
whom were to return with dispatches. Our animals numbered two riding,
and seven pack, horses, two draft, and eight pack, bullocks, exclusive
of two horses of my own, and two for the men to be sent back.
BANKS OF THE MACQUARIE.
The morning of the 7th December, the day upon which we were to leave
the valley, was ushered in by a cloudless sky, and that heated
appearance in the atmosphere which foretells an oppressively sultry
day. I therefore put off the moment of our departure to the evening,
and determined to proceed no further than Gobawlin. I was the more
readily induced to order this short journey because the animals had not
been practised to their full loads, and I thought they might have given
some trouble at starting with an unusual weight. They moved off however
very quietly, and as if they had been accustomed to their work by a
long course of training. We took our departure from the settlement at 3
p.m. and, crossing to the right bank of the Macquarie, a little above
its junction with the Bell, reached Mr Wylde's station about half-past
five. Thus we commenced our journey under circumstances as favorable as
could have been wished. In disengaging ourselves on the following day
from the hills by which Wellington Valley is encompassed on the
westward, with a view to approach Mr. Palmer's first station, we kept
rather wide of the river, and only occasionally touched on its more
projecting angles. The soil at a distance from the stream was by no
means so good as that in its immediate vicinity, nor was the timber of
the same description. On the rich and picturesque grounds near the
river the angophora prevailed with the flooded gum, and the scenery
upon its banks was improved by the casuarinae that overhung them. On
the latter, inferior eucalypti and cypresses were mixed together. The
country was broken and undulating, and the hills stony, notwithstanding
which, they appeared to have an abundance of pasture upon them. Mr.
Hume rode with me to the summit of a limestone elevation, from which I
thought it probable we might have obtained such a view as would have
enabled us to form some idea of the country into which we were about to
descend. But in following the river line, the eye wandered over a dark
and unbroken forest alone. The ranges from which we were fast receding
formed an irregular and beautiful landscape to the southward; and
contrasted strongly with the appearance of the country to the N. W., in
which direction it was rapidly assuming a level.
We reached Mr. Palmer's at a late hour in the afternoon, in consequence
of a delay we experienced in crossing a gully, and encamped upon a high
bank immediately opposite to the mouth of Molle's rivulet which here
joins the Macquarie from the southward. The cattle had consumed all the
food, and the ground on both sides of the river looked bare and arid.
No doubt, however, the face of the country in ordinary seasons wears a
very different appearance. Its general elevation continued high; nor
did the Macquarie assume any change of aspect. Mountain debris and
rounded pebbles of various kinds formed its bed, which was much
encumbered with timber.
DIBILAMBLE.
We had been unable to persuade any of the natives of Wellington Valley
to accompany us as guides, on our leaving that settlement. Even Mr.
Maxwell's influence failed; for, notwithstanding the promises of
several, when they saw that we were ready to depart, they either
feigned sickness or stated that they were afraid of the more distant
natives. The fact is, that they were too lazy to wander far from their
own district, and too fond of Maxwell's beef to leave it for a
precarious bush subsistence. Fortunately we found several natives with
Mr. Palmer's stockmen, who readily undertook to conduct us by the
nearest route to the cataract, which we considered to be midway between
Wellington Valley and Mount Harris. We started under their guidance for
Dibilamble, Mr. Palmer's second station, and reached it about half-past
4 p.m. The distance between the two is sixteen miles. The country for
some miles differs in no material point from that through which we had
already passed. The same rich tracts of soil near the river and the
same inferiority in the tracks remote from it. Near Dibilamble,
however, the limestone formation terminates, and gives place to barren
stony ridges, upon which the cypress callities is of close and stunted
growth. The ridges themselves were formed of a coarse kind of freestone
in a state of rapid decomposition. The Tabragar (the Erskine of Mr.
Oxley) falls into the Macquarie at Dibilamble. It had long ceased to
flow, being a small mountain torrent whose source, if we judge from the
shingly nature of its bed, cannot be very distant. Our descent was
considerable during the day; the rapids were frequent in the river, but
it underwent no change in its general appearance. Its waters were hard
and transparent, and its banks, in many places, extremely lofty; with a
red sandy loam and gravel under the alluvial deposits. It generally
happened that where the bank was high on the one side it was low and
subject to flood, to a limited extent at least, on the other. Upon
these low grounds the blue-gum trees were of lofty growth, but on the
upper levels box prevailed.
SCENERY NEAR THE RIVER.
The views upon the river were really beautiful, and varied at every
turn; nor is it possible for any tree to exceed the casuarina in the
graceful manner in which it bends over the stream, or clings to some
solitary rock in its centre.
It here became necessary for us to cross to the left bank of the river,
not only to avoid its numerous windings, and thus to preserve as much
as possible the direct line to Mount Harris; but also, because the
travelling was much better on the south side. We therefore availed
ourselves of a ford opposite to the ground on which the tents had
stood; and then pursued our journey, in a south-westerly course, over a
country of a description very inferior to that of any we had previously
noticed.
Iron-bark and cypresses generally prevailed along our line of route on
a poor and sandy soil, which improved after we passed Elizabeth Burn, a
small creek mentioned by Mr. Oxley.
TAYLOR'S RIVULET.
We approached the river again early in the day, and pitched our tent on
the summit of a sloping bank that overlooked one of its long still
reaches. We were protected from the sun by the angophora trees, which
formed a hanging wood around us, and, with its bright green foliage,
gave a cheerfulness to the scene that was altogether unusual. The
opposite side of the river was rather undulated, and the soil appeared
to be of the finest description. The grass, although growing in tufts,
afforded abundance of pasture for the cattle; and, on the whole, this
struck me as a most eligible spot for a station, and I found it
occupied as such on the return of the expedition. We had encamped about
a quarter of a mile from Taylor's Rivulet, which discharges itself into
the Macquarie from the N. E., and is the first stream, upon the right
bank, below the Wellington Valley.
Immediately after receiving it the river sweeps away to the southward,
in consequence of which it became again necessary for us to cross it.
Our guides, who were intelligent lads, led the cattle to a ford, a
little below the junction of Taylor's Rivulet, at which we effected a
passage with some difficulty; the opposite bank being very steep, and
we were obliged to force our way up a gully for some eighty or a
hundred yards before we could extricate the team. Pursuing our journey,
in a N. W. direction, we soon left the rich and undulating grounds
bordering the river behind us. A poor, level, and open country,
succeeded them. The soil changed to a light red, sandy loam, on which
eucalypti, cypresses, and casuarinae, were intermixed with minor
shrubs; of which latter, the cherry tree (exocarpus cupressiformis) was
the most prevalent.
At about seven miles from the river we passed some barren freestone
ridges, near which Mr. Hume killed the first kangaroo we had seen. At
mid-day we passed a small creek, at which the cattle were watered; and
afterwards continued our journey through a country similar to that over
which we had already made our way.
As we neared the stream we noticed the acacia pendula for the first
time,--an indication of our approach to the marshes. The weather still
continued extremely hot. Our journey this day was unusually long, and
our cattle suffered so much, and moved so slowly, that it was late when
we struck upon the Macquarie, at a part where its banks were so high
that we had some difficulty in finding a good watering place.
SURPRISE SOME NATIVES.
Being considerably in front of the party, with one of our guides, when
we neared the river, I came suddenly upon a family of natives. They
were much terrified, and finding that they could not escape, called
vehemently to some of their companions, who were in the distance. By
the time Mr. Hume came up, they had in some measure recovered their
presence of mind, but availed themselves of the first favourable moment
to leave us. I was particular in not imposing any restraint on these
men, in consequence of which they afterwards mustered sufficient
resolution to visit us in our camp. We now judged that we were about
ten miles from the cataract, and that, according to the accounts of the
stockman, we could not be very distant from the lake he had mentioned.
NATIVE BURIAL PLACE.
As I was unwilling to pass any important feature of the country without
enquiry or examination, I requested Mr. Hume to interrogate the
strangers on the subject. They stated that they belonged to the lake
tribe, that the lake was a short day's journey to the eastward, and
that they would guide us to it if we wished. The matter was accordingly
arranged. They left us at dusk, but returned to the camp at the
earliest dawn; when we once more crossed the river, and, after
traversing a very level country for about nine miles, arrived at our
destination. We passed over the dried beds of lagoons, and through
coppices of cypresses and acacia pendula, or open forest, but did not
observe any of the barren stony ridges so common to the N.E. About a
mile, or a mile and a half, from the lake we examined a solitary grave
that had recently been constructed. It consisted of an oblong mound,
with three semicircular seats. A walk encompassed the whole, from which
three others branched off for a few yards only, into the forest.
Several cypresses, overhanging the grave, were fancifully carved on the
inner side, and on one the shape of a heart was deeply engraved.
BUDDAH LAKE.
We were sadly disappointed in the appearance of the lake, which the
natives call the Buddah. It is a serpentine sheet of fresh water, of
rather more than a mile in length, and from three to four hundred yards
in breadth. Its depth was four fathoms; but it seemed as if it were now
five or six feet below the ordinary level. No stream either runs into
it or flows from it; yet it abounds in fish; from which circumstance I
should imagine that it originally owed its supply to the river during
some extensive inundation. Notwithstanding that we had crossed some
rich tracts of land in our way to it, the neighbourhood of the lake was
by no means fertile. The trees around it were in rapid decay, and the
little vegetation to be seen appeared to derive but little advantage
from its proximity to water.
EXTREME HEAT OF THE WEATHER.
We had started at early dawn; and the heat had become intolerable long
ere the sun had gained the meridian. It was rendered still more
oppressive from the want of air in the dense bushes through which we
occasionally moved. At 2 p.m. the thermometer stood at 129 degrees of
Fahrenheit, in the shade; and at 149 degrees in the sun; the difference
being exactly 20 degrees. It is not to be wondered at that the cattle
suffered, although the journey was so short. The sun's rays were too
powerful even for the natives, who kept as much as possible in the
shade. In the evening, when the atmosphere was somewhat cooler, we
launched the boat upon the lake, in order to get some wild fowl and
fish; but although we were tolerably successful with our guns, we did
not take anything with our hooks.
The natives had, in the course of the afternoon, been joined by the
rest of the tribe, and they now numbered about three and twenty. They
were rather distant in their manner, and gazed with apparent
astonishment at the scene that was passing before them.
If there had been other proof wanting, of the lamentably parched and
exhausted state of the interior, we had on this occasion ample evidence
of it, and of the fearful severity of the drought under which the
country was suffering. As soon as the sun dipped under the horizon,
hundreds of birds came crowding to the border of the lake, to quench
the thirst they had been unable to allay in the forest. Some were
gasping, others almost too weak to avoid us, and all were indifferent
to the reports of our guns.
CATARACT OF THE MACQUARIE.
On leaving the Buddah, eleven only of the natives accompanied us. We
reached the river again about noon, on a north-half-east course, where
it had a rocky bed, and continued to journey along it, until we reached
the cataract at which we halted. We travelled over soil generally
inferior to that which we had seen on the preceding day, but rich in
many places. The same kind of timber was observed, but the acacia
pendula was more prevalent than any other, although near the river the
flooded gum and Australian apple-tree were of beautiful growth.
It had appeared to me that the waters of the Macquarie had been
diminishing in volume since our departure from Wellington Valley, and I
had a favourable opportunity of judging as to the correctness of this
conclusion at the cataract, where its channel, at all times much
contracted, was particularly so on the present occasion. So little
force was there in the current, that I began to entertain doubts how
long it would continue, more especially when I reflected on the level
character of the country we had entered, and the fact of the Macquarie
not receiving any tributary between this point and the marshes. I was
in consequence led to infer that result, which, though not immediately,
eventually took place.
As they were treated with kindness, the natives who accompanied us soon
threw off all reserve, and in the afternoon assembled at the pool below
the fall to take fish. They went very systematically to work, with
short spears in their hands that tapered gradually to a point, and sank
at once under water without splash or noise at a given signal from an
elderly man. In a short time, one or two rose with the fish they had
transfixed; the others remained about a minute under water, and then
made their appearance near the same rock into the crevices of which
they had driven their prey. Seven fine bream were taken, the whole of
which they insisted on giving to our men, although I am not aware that
any of themselves had broken their fast that day. They soon, however,
procured a quantity of muscles, with which they sat down very
contentedly at a fire. My barometrical admeasurement gave the cataract
an elevation of 680 feet above the level of the sea; and my
observations placed it in east longitude 148 degrees 3 minutes and in
latitude 31 degrees 50 minutes south.
It became an object with us to gain the right bank of the Macquarie as
soon as possible; for it was evident that the country to the southward
of it was much more swampy than it was to the north: but for some
distance below the cataract, we found it impossible to effect our
purpose. The rocks composing the bed of the river at the cataract,
which are of trapp formation, disappeared at about eight miles below
it, when the river immediately assumed another character. Its banks
became of equal height, which had not before been the case, and
averaged from fifteen to eighteen feet. They were composed entirely of
alluvial soil, and were higher than the highest flood-marks. Its waters
appeared to be turbid and deep, and its bed was a mixture of sand and
clay. The casuarina, which had so often been admired by us, entirely
disappeared and the channel in many places became so narrow as to be
completely arched over by gum-trees.
A TRIBE OF NATIVES.
On the 16th, we fell in with a numerous tribe of natives who joined our
train after the very necessary ceremonies of an introduction had
passed, and when added to those who still accompanied us, amounted to
fifty-three. On this occasion I was riding somewhat in front of the
party, when I came upon them. They were very different in appearance
from those whom we had surprised at the river; and from the manner in
which I was received, I was led to infer that they had been informed of
our arrival, and had purposely assembled to meet us. I was saluted by
an old man, who had stationed himself in front of his tribe, and who
was their chief. Behind him the young men stood in a line, and behind
them the warriors were seated on the ground.
CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES.
I had a young native with me who had attached himself to our party, and
who, from his extreme good nature and superior intelligence, was
considered by us as a first-rate kind of fellow. He explained who and
what we were, and I was glad to observe that the old chief seemed
perfectly reconciled to my presence, although he cast many an anxious
glance at the long train of animals that were approaching. The
warriors, I remarked, never lifted their eyes from the ground. They
were hideously painted with red and yellow ochre, and had their weapons
at their sides, while their countenances were fixed, sullen, and
determined. In order to overcome this mood, I rode up to them, and,
taking a spear from the nearest, gave him my gun to examine; a mark of
confidence that was not lost upon them, for they immediately relaxed
from their gravity, and as soon as my party arrived, rose up and
followed us. That which appeared most to excite their surprise, was the
motion of the wheels of the boat carriage. The young native whom I have
noticed above, acted as interpreter, and, by his facetious manner,
contrived to keep the whole of us in a fit of laughter as we moved
along. He had been named Botheri by some stockman.
In consequence of our wish to cross the river, we kept near it, and
experienced considerable delay from the frequent marshes that opposed
themselves to our progress. In one of these we saw a number of ibises
and spoonbills; and the natives succeeded in killing two or three
snakes. Our view to the westward was extremely limited; but to the
eastward the country appeared in some places to expand into plains.
CROSSING OF THE RIVER.
After travelling some miles down the banks of the river, finding that
they still retained their steep character, we turned back to a place
which Mr. Hume had observed, and at which he thought we might, with
some little trouble, cross to the opposite side. And, however
objectionable the attempt was, we found ourselves obliged to make it.
We descended, therefore, into the channel of the river, and unloaded
the animals and boat-carriage. In order to facilitate the ascent of the
right bank, some of the men were directed to cut steps up it. I was
amused to see the natives voluntarily assist them; and was surprised
when they took up bags of flour weighing 100 pounds each, and carried
them across the river. We were not long in getting the whole of the
stores over. The boat was then hoisted on the shoulders of the
strongest, and deposited on the top of the opposite bank; and ropes
being afterwards attached to the carriage, it was soon drawn up to a
place of safety. The natives worked as hard as our own people, and
that, too, with a cheerfulness for which I was altogether unprepared,
and which is certainly foreign to their natural habits. We pitched our
tents as soon as we had effected the passage of the river; after which,
the men went to bathe, and blacks and whites were mingled promiscuously
in the stream. I did not observe that the former differed in any
respect from the natives who frequent the located districts. They were
generally clean limbed and stout, and some of the young men had
pleasing intelligent countenances. They lacerate their bodies,
inflicting deep wounds to raise the flesh, and extract the front teeth
like the Bathurst tribes; and their weapons are precisely the same.
They are certainly a merry people, and sit up laughing and talking more
than half the night.
BAROMETER BROKEN.
During the removal of the stores my barometer was unfortunately broken,
and I had often, in the subsequent stages of the journey, occasion to
regret the accident. I apprehend that the corks in the instrument,
placed to steady the tube, are too distant from each other in most
cases; and indeed I fear that barometers as at present constructed,
will seldom be carried with safety in overland expeditions.
DESERTED BY THE NATIVES.
Nine only of the natives accompanied us on the morning succeeding the
day in which we crossed the river. Botheri was, however, at the head of
them; and, as we journeyed along, he informed me that he had been
promised a wife on his return from acting as our guide, by the chief of
the last tribe. The excessive heat of the weather obliged us to shorten
our journey, and we encamped about noon in some scrub after having
traversed a level country for about eleven miles.
Several considerable plains were noticed to our right, stretching east
and west, which were generally rich in point of soil; but we passed
through much brushy land during the day. It was lamentable to see the
state of vegetation upon the plains from want of moisture. Although the
country had assumed a level character, and was more open than on the
higher branches of the Macquarie, the small freestone elevations,
backing the alluvial tracts near the river, still continued upon our
right, though much diminished in height, and at a great distance from
the banks. They seemed to be covered with cypresses and beef-wood, but
dwarf-box and the acacia pendula prevailed along the plains; while
flooded-gum alone occupied the lands in the immediate neighbourhood of
the stream, which was evidently fast diminishing, both in volume and
rapidity; its bed, however, still continuing to be a mixture of sand
and clay.
The cattle found such poor feed around the camp that they strayed away
in search of better during the night. On such an occasion Botheri and
his fraternity would have been of real service; but he had decamped at
an early hour, and had carried off an axe, a tomahawk, and some bacon,
although I had made him several presents. I was not at all surprised at
this piece of roguery, since cunning is the natural attribute of a
savage; but I was provoked at their running away at a moment when I so
much required their assistance.
Left to ourselves, I found Mr. Hume of the most essential service in
tracking the animals, and to his perseverance we were indebted for
their speedy recovery, They had managed to find tolerable feed near a
serpentine sheet of water, which Mr. Hume thought it would be advisable
to examine. We directed our course to it as soon as the cattle were
loaded, moving through bush, and found it to be a very considerable
creek that receives a part of the superfluous waters of the Macquarie,
and distributes them, most probably, over the level country to the
north. It was much wider than the river, being from fifty to sixty
yards across, and is resorted to by the natives, who procure muscles
from its bed in great abundance. We were obliged to traverse its
eastern bank to its junction with the river, at which it fortunately
happened to be dry. We had, however, to cut roads down both its banks
before we could cross it; and, consequently, made but a short day's
journey. The soil passed over was inferior to the generality of soil
near the river, but we encamped on a tongue of land on which both the
flooded-gum and the grass were of luxuriant height. We found a quantity
of a substance like pipe-clay in the bed of the river, similar to that
mentioned by Mr. Oxley.
GREAT HEAT.
The heat, which had been excessive at Wellington Valley, increased upon
us as we advanced into the interior. The thermometer was seldom under
114 degrees at noon, and rose still higher at 2 p.m. We had no dews at
night, and consequently the range of the instrument was trifling in the
twenty-four hours. The country looked bare and scorched, and the plains
over which we journeyed had large fissures traversing them, so that the
earth may literally be said to have gasped for moisture. The country,
which above the cataract had borne the character of open forest,
excepting on the immediate banks of the river, where its undulations
and openness gave it a park-like appearance, or where the barren stony
ridges prevailed below that point, generally exhibited alternately
plain and brush, the soil on both of which was good. On the former,
crested pigeons were numerous, several of which were shot. We had
likewise procured some of the rose-coloured and grey parrots, mentioned
by Mr. Oxley, and a small paroquet of beautiful plumage; but there was
less of variety in the feathered race than I expected to find, and most
of the other birds we had seen were recognised by me as similar to
specimens I had procured from Melville Island, and were, therefore,
most probably birds of passage.
ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY, AND THE RIVER.
As we neared Mount Harris, the Macquarie became more sluggish in its
flow, and fell off so much as scarcely to deserve the name of a river.
In breadth, it averaged from thirty-five to forty-five yards, and in
the height of its banks, from fifteen to eighteen. Mr. Hume had
succeeded in taking some fish at one of the stock stations; but if I
except those speared by the natives, we had since been altogether
unsuccessful with the hook, a circumstance which I attribute to the
lowness of the river itself.
About thirty miles from the cataract the country declines to the north
as a medium point, and again changes somewhat in its general
appearance. To the S. and S.W. it appeared level and wooded, while to
the N. the plains became more frequent, but smaller, and travelling
over them was extremely dangerous, in consequence of the large fissures
by which they were traversed. The only trees to be observed were
dwarf-box and the acacia pendula, both of stunted growth, although
flooded-gum still prevailed upon the river.
On the 20th we travelled on a N.W. course, and in the early part of the
day passed over tolerably good soil. It was succeeded by a barren
scrub, through which we penetrated in the direction of Welcome Rock, a
point we had seen from one of the Plains and had mistaken for Mount
Harris.
ARRIVAL AT MOUNT HARRIS.
On a nearer approach, however, we observed our error, and corrected it
by turning more to the left; and we ultimately encamped about a mile to
the W.S.W. of the latter eminence. On issuing from the scrub we found
ourselves among reeds and coarse water-grass; and, from the appearance
of the country, we were led to conclude that we had arrived at a part
of the interior more than ordinarily subject to overflow.
As soon as the camp was fixed, Mr. Hume and I rode to Mount Harris,
over ground subject to flood and covered for the most part by the
polygonum, being too anxious to defer our examination of its
neighbourhood even for a few hours.
VESTIGES OF MR. OXLEY'S ENCAMPMENT.
Nearly ten years had elapsed since Mr. Oxley pitched his tents under
the smallest of the two hills into which Mount Harris is broken. There
was no difficulty in hitting upon his position. The trenches that had
been cut round the tents were still perfect, and the marks of the
fire-places distinguishable; while the trees in the neighbourhood had
been felled, and round about them the staves of some casks and a few
tent-pegs were scattered. Mr. Oxley had selected a place at some
distance from the river, in consequence of its then swollen state. I
looked upon it from the same ground, and could not discern the waters
in its channel; so much had they fallen below their ordinary level. He
saw the river when it was overflowing its banks; on the present
occasion it had scarcely sufficient water to support a current. On the
summit of the greater eminence, which we ascended, there remained the
half-burnt planks of a boat, some clenched and rusty nails, and an old
trunk; but my search for the bottle Mr. Oxley had left was unsuccessful.
A reflection naturally arose to my mind on examining these decaying
vestiges of a former expedition, whether I should be more fortunate
than the leader of it, and how far I should be enabled to penetrate
beyond the point which had conquered his perseverance. Only a week
before I left Sydney I had followed Mr. Oxley to the tomb. A man of
uncommon quickness, and of great ability, the task of following up his
discoveries was not less enviable than arduous; but, arrived at that
point at which his journey may be said to have terminated and mine only
to commence, I knew not how soon I should be obliged, like him, to
retreat from the marshes and exhalations of so depressed a country. My
eye instinctively turned to the North-West, and the view extended over
an apparently endless forest. I could trace the river line of trees by
their superior height; but saw no appearance of reeds, save the few
that grew on the banks of the stream.
Mount Foster, somewhat higher than Mount Harris, on the opposite side
of the river, alone broke the line of the horizon to the North N.W. at
a distance of five miles. From that point all round the compass, the
low lands spread, like a dark sea, before me; except where a large
plain stretching from E. to W., and lying to the S.E. broke their
monotony; and if there was nothing discouraging, there certainly was
nothing cheering, in the prospect.
ILLNESS OF TWO OF THE MEN.
On our return to the camp, I was vexed to find two of the men, Henwood
and Williams, with increased inflammation of the eyes, of which they
had previously been complaining, and I thought it advisable to bleed
the latter.
In consequence of the indisposition of these men, we remained
stationary on the 21st, which enabled me to pay a second visit to Mount
Harris. On ascending the smaller hill, I was surprised to find similar
vestiges on its summit to those I had noticed on the larger one; in
addition to which, the rollers still continued on the side of the hill,
which had been used to get the boat up it. [Mr. Oxley had two boats;
one of which he dragged to the top of each of these hills, and left
them turned bottom upwards, burying a bottle under the head of the
larger boat, which was conveyed to the more distant hill.]
Mount Harris is of basaltic formation, but I could not observe any
columnar regularity in it, although large blocks are exposed above the
ground. The rock is extremely hard and sonorous.
MOUNT FOSTER AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.
We moved leisurely towards Mount Foster, on the 22nd, and arrived
opposite to it a little before sunset. The country between the two is
mostly open, or covered only with the acacia pendula and dwarf-box. The
soil, although an alluvial deposit, is not of the best; nor was
vegetation either fresh or close upon it. As soon as the party stopped,
I crossed the river, and lost no time in ascending the hill, being
anxious to ascertain if any fresh object was visible from its summit, I
thought that from an eminence so much above the level of the
surrounding objects, I might obtain a view of the marshes, or of water;
but I was wholly disappointed. The view was certainly extensive, but it
was otherwise unsatisfactory. Again to the N.W. the lowlands spread in
darkness before me; there were some considerable plains beyond the near
wood; but the country at the foot of the hill appeared open and
promising. Although the river line was lost in the distance, it was as
truly pointed out by the fires of the natives, which rose in upright
columns into the sky, as if it had been marked by the trees upon its
banks.
To the eastward, Arbuthnot's range rose high above the line of the
horizon, bearing nearly due East, distant seventy miles. The following
sketch of its outlines will convey a better idea of its appearance from
Mount Foster than any written description.
[small sketch here--not shown in etext]
I stayed on the mount until after sunset, but I could not make out any
space that at all resembled the formidable barrier I knew we were so
rapidly approaching. I saw nothing to check our advance, and I
therefore returned to the camp, to advise with Mr. Hume upon the
subject. Not having been with me on Mount Foster, he took the
opportunity to ascend it on the following morning; and on his return
concurred with me in opinion, that there was no apparent obstacle to
our moving onwards. As the men were considerably better, I had the less
hesitation in closing with the marshes. We left our position, intending
to travel slowly, and to halt early.
The first part of our journey was over rich flats, timbered
sufficiently to afford a shade, on which the grass was luxuriant; but
we were obliged to seek more open ground, in consequence of the
frequent stumbling of the cattle.
We issued, at length, upon a plain, the view across which was as dreary
as can be imagined; in many places without a tree, save a few old
stumps left by the natives when they fired the timber, some of which
were still smoking in different parts of it. Observing some lofty trees
at the extremity of the plain, we moved towards them, under an
impression that they indicated the river line. But on this exposed spot
the sun's rays fell with intense power upon us, and the dust was so
minute and penetrating, that I soon regretted having left the shady
banks of the river.
About 2.p.m. we neared the trees for which we had been making, over
ground evidently formed by alluvial deposition, and were astonished to
find that reeds alone were growing under the trees as far as the eye
could penetrate. It appeared that we were still some distance from the
river, and it was very doubtful how far we might be from water, for
which the men were anxiously calling. I therefore halted, and sent
Fraser into the reeds towards some dead trees, on which a number of
spoonbills were sitting. He found that there was a small lake in the
centre of the reeds, the resort of numerous wild fowl; but although the
men were enabled to quench their thirst, we found it impossible to
water the animals. We were obliged, therefore, to continue our course
along the edge of the reeds; which in a short time appeared in large
masses in front of us, stretching into a vast plain upon our right; and
it became evident that the whole neighbourhood was subject to extensive
inundation.
ENCAMP AMIDST REEDS.
I was fearful that the reeds would have checked us; but there was a
passage between the patches, through which we managed to force our way
into a deep bight, and fortunately gained the river at the bottom of it
much sooner than we expected. We were obliged to clear away a space for
the tents; and thus, although there had been no such appearance from
Mount Foster, we found ourselves in less than seven hours after leaving
it, encamped pretty far in that marsh for which we had so anxiously
looked from its summit, and now trusting to circumstances for safety,
upon ground on which, in any ordinary state of the river, it would have
been dangerous to have ventured. Indeed, as it was, our situation was
sufficiently critical, and would not admit of hesitation on my part.
NATURE OF THE COUNTRY.
After the cattle had been turned out, Mr. Hume and I again mounted our
horses, and proceeded to the westward, with a view to examine the
nature of the country before us, and to ascertain if it was still
practicable to move along the river side. For, although it was evident
that we had arrived at what might strictly be called the marshes of the
Macquarie, I still thought we might be at some distance from the place
where Mr. Oxley terminated his journey.
There was no indication in the river to encourage an idea that it would
speedily terminate; nor, although we were on ground subject to
extensive inundation, could we be said to have reached the heart of the
marshes, as the reeds still continued in detached bodies only. We
forced a path through various portions of them, and passed over ground
wholly subject to flood, to a distance of about six miles. We then
crossed a small rise of ground, sufficiently high to have afforded a
retreat, had necessity obliged us to seek for one; and we shortly
afterwards descended on the river, unaltered in its appearance, and
rather increased than diminished in size. A vast plain extended to the
N.W., the extremity of which we could not discern; though a thick
forest formed its northern boundary.
It was evident that this plain had been frequently under water, but it
was difficult to judge from the marks on the trees to what height the
floods had risen. The soil was an alluvial deposit, superficially
sandy; and many shells were scattered over its surface. To the south,
the country appeared close and low; nor do I think we could have
approached the river from that side, by reason of the huge belts of
reeds that appeared to extend as far as the the eye could reach.
MEN ATTACKED WITH OPHTHALMIA.
The approach of night obliged us to return to the camp. On our arrival,
we found that the state of Henwood and Williams would prevent our
stirring for a day or two. Not only had they a return of inflammation,
but several other of the men complained of a painful irritation of the
eyes, which were dreadfully blood-shot and weak. I was in some measure
prepared for a relapse in Henwood, as the exposure which he necessarily
underwent on the plain was sufficient to produce that effect; but I now
became apprehensive that the affection would run through the party.
Considering our situation in its different bearings, it struck me that
the men who were to return to Wellington Valley with an account our our
proceedings for the Governor's information, had been brought as far as
prudence warranted. There was no fear of their going astray, as long as
they had the river to guide them; but in the open country which we were
to all appearance approaching, or amidst fields of reeds, they might
wander from the track, and irrecoverably lose themselves. I determined,
therefore, not to risk their safety, but to prepare my dispatches for
Sydney, and I hoped most anxiously, that ere they were closed, all
symptoms of disease would have terminated.
In the course of the day, however, Spencer, who was to return with
Riley to Wellington Valley, became seriously indisposed, and I feared
that he was attacked with dysentery. Indeed, I should have attributed
his illness to our situation, but I did not notice any unusual moisture
in the atmosphere, nor did any fogs rise from the river. I therefore
the rather attributed it to exposure and change of diet, and treated
him accordingly. To my satisfaction, when I visited the men late in the
evening, I found a general improvement in the whole of them. Spencer
was considerably relieved, and those of the party who had inflammation
of the eyes no longer felt that painful irritation of which they had
before complained. I determined, therefore, unless untoward
circumstances should prevent it, to send Riley and his companion
homewards, and to move the party without loss of time.
We had not seen any natives for many days, but a few passed the camp on
the opposite side of the river on the evening of the 25th. They would
not, however, come to us; but fled into the interior in great apparent
alarm.
DEPARTURE OF TWO MEN FOR WELLINGTON.
On the morning of the 26th, the men were sufficiently recovered to
pursue their journey. Riley and Spencer left us at an early hour; and
about 7 a.m. we pursued a N.N.W. course along the great plain I have
noticed, starting numberless quails, and many wild turkeys, by the way.
Leaving that part of the river on which Mr. Hume and I had touched
considerably to the left, we made for the point of a wood, projecting
from the river line of trees into the plain. The ground under us was an
alluvial deposit, and bore all the marks of frequent inundation.
The soil was yielding, blistered, and uneven; and the claws of
cray-fish, together with numerous small shells, were every where
collected in the hollows made by the subsiding of the waters, between
broad belts of reeds and scrubs of polygonum.
CONSULTATION.
On gaining the point of the wood, we found an absolute check put to our
further progress. We had been moving directly on the great body of the
marsh, and from the wood it spread in boundless extent before us. It
was evidently lower than the ground on which we stood; we had
therefore, a complete view over the whole expanse; and there was a
dreariness and desolation pervading the scene that strengthened as we
gazed upon it. Under existing circumstances, it only remained for us
either to skirt the reeds to the northward, or to turn in again upon
the river; and as I considered it important to ascertain the direction
of the Macquarie at so critical and interesting a point, I thought it
better to adopt the latter measure. We, accordingly, made for the
river, and pitched our tents, as at the last station, in the midst of
reeds.
There were two points at this time, upon which I was extremely anxious.
The first was as to the course of the river; the second, as to the
extent of the marshes by which we had been checked, and the
practicability of the country to the northward.
In advising with Mr. Hume, I proposed launching the boat, as the surest
means of ascertaining the former, and he, on his part, most readily
volunteered to examine the marshes, in any direction I should point
out. It was therefore, arranged, that I should take two men, and a
week's provision with me in the boat down the river; and that he should
proceed with a like number of men on an excursion to the northward.
After having given directions as to the regulations of camp during our
absence, we separated, on the morning of the 26th for the first time,
in furtherance of the objects each had in view.
BOAT EXCURSION.
In pulling down the river, I found that its channel was at first
extremely tortuous and irregular, but that it held a general N.W.
course, and bore much the same appearance as it had done since our
descent from Mount Foster.
We had a laborious task in lifting the boat over the trunks of trees
that had fallen into the channel of the river or that had been left by
the floods, and at length we stove her in upon a sunken log. The injury
she received was too serious not to require immediate repair; and we,
therefore, patched her up with a tin plate. This accident occasioned
some delay, and the morning was consumed without our having made any
considerable progress. At length, however, we got into a more open
channel.
The river suddenly increased in breadth to thirty-five or forty-five
yards, with a depth of from twelve to twenty feet of water. Its banks
shelved perpendicularly down, and were almost on a level with the
surface of the stream; and the flood mark was not more than two feet
high on the reeds by which they were lined. We had hitherto passed
under the shade of the flooded gum, which still continued on the
immediate banks of the river; but, the farther we advanced, the more
did we find these trees in a state of decay, until at length they
ceased, or were only rarely met with.
TERMINATION OF THE RIVER.
About 2 p.m. I brought up under a solitary tree, in consequence of
heavy rain: this was upon the left bank. In the afternoon, however, we
again pushed forward, and soon lost sight of every other object amidst
reeds of great height. The channel of the river continued as broad and
as deep as ever, but the flood mark did not show more than a foot above
the banks, which were now almost on a level with the water; and the
current was so sluggish as to be scarcely perceptible. These general
appearances continued for about three miles, when our course was
suddenly, and most unexpectedly, checked. The channel, which had
promised so well, without any change in its breadth or depth, ceased
altogether; and whilst we were yet lost in astonishment at so abrupt a
termination of it, the boat grounded. It only remained for us to
examine the banks, which we did with particular attention. Two creeks
were then discovered, so small as scarcely to deserve the name, and
which would, under ordinary circumstances, have been overlooked. The
one branched off to the north--the other to the west. We were obliged
to get out of the boat to push up the former, the leeches sticking in
numbers to our legs. The creek continued for about thirty yards, when
it was terminated; and, in order fully to satisfy myself of the fact, I
walked round the head of it by pushing through the reeds. Night coming
on, we returned to the tree at which we had stopped during the rain,
and slept under it. The men cut away the reeds, or we should not have
had room to move. At 2 a.m. it commenced raining, with a heavy storm of
thunder and lightning; the boat was consequently hauled ashore, and
turned over to afford us a temporary shelter. The lightning was
extremely vivid, and frequently played upon the ground, near the
firelocks, for more than a quarter of a minute at a time.
It is singular, that Mr. Oxley should, under similar circumstances,
have experienced an equally stormy night, and most probably within a
few yards of the place on which I had posted myself. Notwithstanding
that the elements were raging around me, as if to warn me of the danger
of my situation, my mind turned solely on the singular failure of the
river. I could not but encourage hopes that this second channel that
remained to be explored would lead us into an open space again; and as
soon as the morning dawned we pursued our way to it. In passing some
dead trees upon the right bank, I stopped to ascend one, that, from an
elevation, I might survey the marsh, but I found it impossible to trace
the river through it. The country to the westward was covered with
reeds, apparently to the distance of seven miles; to the N.W. to a
still greater distance; and to the north they bounded the horizon.
The whole expanse was level and unbroken, but here and there the reeds
were higher and darker than at other places, as if they grew near
constant moisture; but I could see no appearance of water in any body,
or of high lands beyond the distant forest.
As soon as we arrived at the end of the main channel, we again got out
of the boat, and in pushing up the smaller one, soon found ourselves
under a dark arch of reeds. It did not, however, continue more than
twenty yards when it ceased, and I walked round the head of it as I had
done round that of the other. We then examined the space between the
creeks, where the bank receives the force of the current, which I did
not doubt had formed them by the separation of its eddies. Observing
water among the reeds, I pushed through them with infinite labour to a
considerable distance. The soil proved to be a stiff clay; the reeds
were closely embodied, and from ten to twelve feet high; the waters
were in some places ankle deep, and in others scarcely covered the
surface. They were flowing in different points, with greater speed than
those of the river, which at once convinced me that they were not
permanent, but must have lodged in the night during which so much rain
had fallen. They ultimately appeared to flow to the northward, but I
found it impossible to follow them, and it was not without difficulty
that, after having wandered about at every point of the compass, I
again reached the boat.
CAUSES OF THE FAILURE OF THE RIVER.
The care with which I had noted every change that took place in the
Macquarie, from Wellington Valley downwards, enabled me, in some
measure, to account for its present features. I was led to conclude
that the waters of the river being so small in body, excepting in times
of flood, and flowing for so many miles through a level country without
receiving any tributary to support their first impulse, became too
sluggish, long ere they reached the marshes, to cleave through so
formidable a barrier; and consequently spread over the surrounding
country--whether again to take up the character of a river, we had
still to determine. Unless, however, a decline of country should favour
its assuming its original shape, it was evident that the Macquarie
would not be found to exist beyond this marsh, of the nature and extent
of which we were still ignorant. The loss of my barometer was at this
time severely felt by me, since I could only guess at our probable
height above the ocean; and I found that my only course was to
endeavour to force my way to the northward, to ascertain, if I could,
from the bottom of the marshes; then penetrate in a westerly direction
beyond them, in order to commence my survey of the S.W. interior. I was
aware of Mr. Hume's perseverance, and determined, therefore, to wait
the result of his report ere I again moved the camp, to which we
returned late in the afternoon of the second day of our departure. We
found it unsufferably hot and suffocating in the reeds, and were
tormented by myriads of mosquitoes, but the waters were perfectly sweet
to the taste, nor did the slightest smell, as of stagnation, proceed
from them. I may add that the birds, whose sanctuary we had invaded, as
the bittern and various tribes of the galinule, together with the
frogs, made incessant noises around us, There were, however, but few
water-fowl on the river; which was an additional proof to me that we
were not near any very extensive lake.
MR. HUME'S REPORT.
Mr. Hume had returned before me to the camp, and had succeeded in
finding a serpentine sheet of water, about twelve miles to the
northward; which he did not doubt to be the channel of the river. He
had pushed on after this success, in the hope of gaining a further
knowledge of the country; but another still more extensive marsh
checked him, and obliged him to retrace his steps. He was no less
surprised at the account I gave of the termination of the river, than I
was at its so speedily re-forming, and it was determined to lose no
time in the further examination of so singular a region.
FALSE CHANNEL; PERPLEXITIES.
On the morning of the 28th therefore we broke up the camp, and
proceeded to the northward, under Mr. Hume's guidance, moving over
ground wholly subject to flood, and extensively covered with reeds; the
great body of the marsh lying upon our left. After passing the angle of
a wood, upon our right, from which Mount Foster was distant about
fourteen miles, we got upon a small plain, on which there was a new
species of tortuous box. This plain was clear of reeds, and the soil
upon it was very rich. Crossing in a westerly direction we arrived at
the channel found by Mr. Hume, who must naturally have concluded that
it was a continuation of the river. The boat was immediately prepared,
and I went up it in order to ascertain the nature of its formation. For
two miles it preserved a pretty general width of from twenty to thirty
yards; but at that distance began to narrow, and at length it became
quite shallow and covered with weeds. We were ultimately obliged to
abandon the boat, and to walk along a native path. The country to the
westward was more open than I had expected. About a quarter of a mile
from where we had left the boat, the channel separated into two
branches; to which I perceived it owed its formation, coming, as they
evidently did, direct from the heart of the marsh. The wood through
which I had entered it on the first occasion bore south of me, to which
one of the branches inclined; as the other did to the S.W. An almost
imperceptible rise of ground was before me, which, by giving an impetus
to the waters of the marsh, accounted to me for the formation of the
main channel. It was too late, on my return to the camp, to prosecute
any further examination of it downwards; but in the morning, Mr. Hume
accompanied me in the boat, to ascertain to what point it led; and we
found that at about a mile it began to diminish in breadth, until at
length it was completely lost in a second expanse of reeds. We passed a
singular scaffolding erected by the natives, on the side of the
channel, to take fish; and also found a weir at the termination of it
for the like purpose so that it was evident the natives occasionally
ventured into the marshes.
There was a small wood to our left which Mr. Hume endeavoured to gain,
but he failed in the attempt. He did, however, reach a tree that was
sufficiently high to give him a full view of the marsh, which appeared
to extend in every direction, but more particularly to the north, for
many miles. We were, however, at fault, and I really felt at a loss
what step to take. I should have been led to believe from the extreme
flatness of the country, that the Macquarie would never assume its
natural shape, but from the direction of the marshes I could not but
indulge a hope that it would meet the Castlereagh, and that their
united waters might form a stream of some importance. Under this
impression I determined on again sending Mr. Hume to the N.E. in order
to ascertain the nature of the country in that direction.
EXCURSION TO THE NORTH-WEST.
The weather was excessively hot, and as my men were but slowly
recovering, I was anxious while those who were in health continued
active, to give the others a few days of rest. I proposed, therefore,
to cross the river, and to make an excursion into the interior, during
the probable time of Mr. Hume's absence; since if, as I imagined, the
Macquarie had taken a permanent northerly course, I should not have an
opportunity of examining the distant western country. Mr. Hume's
experience rendered it unnecessary for me to give him other than
general directions.
A PLAIN ON FIRE.
On the last day of the year we left the camp, each accompanied by two
men. I had the evening previously ordered the horses I intended taking
with me across the channel, and at an early hour of the morning I
followed them. Getting on a plain, immediately after I had disengaged
myself from the reeds on the opposite side of the river, which was full
of holes and exceedingly treacherous for the animals, I pushed on for a
part of the wood Mr. Hume had endeavoured to gain from the boat, with
the intention of keeping near the marsh. On entering it, I found myself
in a thick brush of eucalypti, casuarinae and minor trees; the soil
under them being mixed with sand. I kept a N.N.W. course through it,
and at the distance of three miles from its commencement, ascended a
tree, to ascertain if I was near the marshes; when I found that I was
fast receding from them. I concluded, therefore, that my conjecture as
to their direction was right, and altered my course to N.W., a
direction in which I had observed a dense smoke arising, which I
supposed had been made by some natives near water. At the termination
of the brush I crossed a barren sandy plain, and from it saw the smoke
ascending at a few miles' distance from me. Passing through a wood, at
the extremity of the plain, I found myself at the outskirts of an open
space of great extent, almost wholly enveloped in flames. The fire was
running with incredible rapidity through the rhagodia shrubs with which
it was covered. Passing quickly over it, I continued my journey to the
N.W. over barren plains of red sandy loam of even surface, and bushes
of cypresses skirted by acacia pendula. It was not until after sunset
that we struck upon a creek, in which the water was excellent; and we
halted on its banks for the night, calculating our distance at
twenty-nine miles from the camp. The creek was of considerable size,
leading northerly. Several huts were observed by us, and from the heaps
of muscle-shells that were scattered about, there could be no doubt of
its being much frequented by the natives. The grass being fairly burnt
up, our animals found but little to eat, but they had a tolerable
journey, and did not attempt to wander in search of better food. I shot
a snipe near the creek, much resembling the painted snipe of India; but
I had not the means with me of preserving it.
A TRIBE OF NATIVES.
Continuing our journey on the following morning, we at first kept on
the banks of the creek, and at about a quarter of a mile from where we
had slept, came upon a numerous tribe of natives. A young girl sitting
by the fire was the first to observe us as we were slowly approaching
her. She was so excessively alarmed, that she had not the power to run
away; but threw herself on the ground and screamed violently. We now
observed a number of huts, out of which the natives issued, little
dreaming of the spectacle they were to behold. But the moment they saw
us, they started back; their huts were in a moment in flames, and each
with a fire-brand ran to and fro with hideous yells, thrusting them
into every bush they passed. I walked my horse quietly towards an old
man who stood more forward than the rest, as if he intended to devote
himself for the preservation of his tribe. I had intended speaking to
him, but on a nearer approach I remarked that he trembled so violently
that it was impossible to expect that I could obtain any information
from him, and as I had not time for explanations, I left him to form
his own conjectures as to what we were, and continued to move towards a
thick brush, into which they did not venture to follow us.
CONTINUE OUR JOURNEY.
After a ride of about eighteen miles, through a country of alternate
plain and brush, we struck upon a second creek leading like the first
to the northward. The water in it was very bitter and muddy, and it was
much inferior in appearance to that at which we had slept. After
stopping for half-an-hour upon its banks, to rest our animals, we again
pushed forward. We had not as yet risen any perceptible height above
the level of the marshes, but had left the country subject to overflow
for a considerable space behind us. The brushes through which we had
passed were too sandy to retain water long, but the plains were of such
an even surface, that they could not but continue wet for a
considerable period after any fall of rain. They were covered with
salsolaceous plants, without a blade of grass; and their soil was
generally a red sandy loam. There were occasional patches that appeared
moist, in which the calystemma was abundant, and these patches must, I
should imagine, form quagmires in the wet season.
On leaving the last-mentioned creek, we found a gently rising country
before us; and about three or four miles from it we crossed some stony
ridges, covered with a new species of acacia so thickly as to prevent
our obtaining any view from them. As the sun declined, we got into open
forest ground; and travelled forwards in momentary expectation, from
appearances, of coming in sight of water; but we were obliged to pull
up at sunset on the outskirts of a larger plain without having our
expectation realized. The day had been extremely warm, and our animals
were as thirsty as ourselves. Hope never forsakes the human breast; and
thence it was that, after we had secured the horses, we began to wander
round our lonely bivouac. It was almost dark, when one of my men came
to inform me that he had found a small puddle of water, to which he had
been led by a pigeon.
It was, indeed, small enough, probably the remains of a passing shower;
it was, however, sufficient for our necessities, and I thanked
Providence for its bounty to us. We were now about sixty miles from the
Macquarie, in a N.W. by W. direction, and the country had proved so
extremely discouraging, that I intimated to my men my intention of
retracing my steps, should I not discover any change in it before noon
on the morrow. A dense brush of acacia succeeded to the plain on which
we had slept, which we entered, and shortly afterwards found ourselves
in an open space, of oblong shape, at the extremity of which there was
a shallow lake. The brush completely encircled it, and a few huts were
upon its banks. About 10 p.m. we got into an open forest track of
better appearance than any over which we had recently travelled.
ISOLATED HILL.
There was a visible change in the country, and the soil, although red,
was extremely rich and free from sand. A short time afterwards we rose
to the summit of a round hill, from which we obtained an extensive view
on most points of the compass. We had imperceptibly risen considerably
above the general level of the interior.
VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.
Beneath us, to the westward, I observed a broad and thinly wooded
valley; and W. by S., distant apparently about twenty miles, an
isolated mountain, whose sides seemed almost perpendicular, broke the
otherwise even line of the horizon; but the country in every other
direction looked as if it was darkly wooded. Anticipating that I should
find a stream in the valley, I did not for a moment hesitate in
striking down into it. Disappointed, however, in this expectation, I
continued onwards to the mountain, which I reached just before the sun
set. Indeed, he was barely visible when I gained its summit; but my
eyes, from exposure to his glare, became so weak, my face was so
blistered, and my lips cracked in so many places, that I was unable to
look towards the west, and was actually obliged to sit down behind a
rock until he had set.
Perhaps no time is so favourable for a view along the horizon as the
sunset hour; and here, at an elevation of from five to six hundred feet
above the plain, the visible line of it could not have been less than
from thirty-five to forty-five miles. The hill upon which I stood was
broken into two points; the one was a bold rocky elevation; the other
had its rear face also perpendicular, but gradually declined to the
north, and at a distance of from four to five miles was lost in an
extensive and open plain in that direction. In the S.E. quarter, two
wooded hills were visible, which before had appeared to be nothing more
than swells in the general level of the country. A small hill, similar
to the above, bore N.E. by compass; and again, to the west, a more
considerable mountain than that I had ascended, and evidently much
higher, reflected the last beams of the sun as he sunk behind them. I
looked, however, in vain for water. I could not trace either the
windings of a stream, or the course of a mountain torrent; and, as we
had passed a swamp about a mile from the hill, we descended to it for
the night, during which we were grievously tormented by the mosquitoes.
RESULTS OF THE EXCURSION.
I had no inducement to proceed further into the interior. I had been
sufficiently disappointed in the termination of this excursion, and the
track before me was still less inviting. Nothing but a dense forest,
and a level country, existed between me and the distant hill. I had
learnt, by experience, that it was impossible to form any opinion of
the probable features of so singular a region as that in which I was
wandering, from previous appearances, or to expect the same result, as
in other countries, from similar causes. In a geographical point of
view, my journey had been more successful, and had enabled me to put to
rest for ever a question of much previous doubt. Of whatever extent the
marshes of the Macquarie might be, it was evident they were not
connected with those of the Lachlan. I had gained knowledge of more
than 100 miles of the western interior, and had ascertained that no
sea, indeed that little water, existed on its surface; and that,
although it is generally flat, it still has elevations of considerable
magnitude upon it.
Although I had passed over much barren ground, I had likewise noticed
soil that was far from poor, and the vegetation upon which in ordinary
seasons would, I am convinced, have borne a very different aspect.
Yet, upon the whole, the space I traversed is unlikely to become the
haunt of civilized man, or will only become so in isolated spots, as a
chain of connection to a more fertile country; if such a country exist
to the westward.
The hill which thus became the extreme of my journey, is of sandstone
formation, and is bold and precipitous. Its summit is level and lightly
timbered. As a tribute of respect to the late Surveyor-General, I
called it Oxley's Table Land, and I named the distant hills D'Urban's
Group, after Sir Benjamin D'Urban, in compliance with a previous
request of my friend Lieut. De la Condamine, that I would so name any
prominent feature of the interior that I might happen to come upon.
RETURN TO THE CAMP.
In returning to the camp, I made a circuit to the N.E., and reached the
Macquarie late on the evening of the 5th of January; having been absent
six days, during which we could not have ridden less than 200 miles.
Yet the horses were not so fatigued as it was natural to expect they
would have been.
My servant informed me that a party of natives had visited the camp on
the 3rd, but that they retired precipitately on seeing the animals. I
regretted to find the men but little better than when I left them.
Several still complained of a painful irritation of the eyes, and of
great weakness of sight. Attributing their continued indisposition in
some measure to our situation, I was anxious to have moved from it; but
as Mr. Hume was still absent, I could not decide upon the measure. He
made his appearance, however, on the 6th, having ridden the greater
part of the day through rain, which commenced to fall in the morning.
Soon after his arrival, Dawber, my overseer of animals, who had
accompanied him, was taken suddenly ill. During the night he became
much worse, with shivering and spasms, and on the following morning he
was extremely weak and feverish. To add to my anxiety, Mr. Hume also
complained of indisposition. His state of health made me the more
anxious to quit a position which I fancied unwholesome, and in which,
if there was no apparent, there was certainly some secret, exciting
cause; and as Mr. Hume reported having crossed a chain of ponds about
four miles to the eastward, and out of the immediate precincts of the
marshes, I ordered the tents to be struck, and placing Dawber on my
horse, we all moved quietly over to them.
MR. HUME'S EXCURSION.
The result of Mr. Hume's journey perplexed me exceedingly. He stated,
that on setting out from the Macquarie his intention was to have
proceeded to the N.E., to ascertain how far the reeds existed in that
direction, and, if at all practicable, to reach the Castlereagh; but in
case of failure, to regain the Macquarie by a westerly course. At first
he travelled nearly four miles east, to clear the marshes, when he came
on the chain of ponds to which we had removed.
He travelled over good soil for two miles after crossing this chain of
ponds, but afterwards got on a red sandy loam, and found it difficult
to proceed, by reason of the thickness of the brush, and the swampy
state of the ground in consequence of the late rain.
The timber in the brushes was of various kinds, and he saw numerous
kangaroos and emus. On issuing from this brush, he crossed a creek,
leading northerly, the banks of which were from ten to twelve feet
high. Whatever the body of water usually in it is, it now only afforded
a few shallow puddles. Mr. Hume travelled through brushes until he came
upon a third creek, similar to the one he had left behind him, at which
he halted for the night. The water in it was bad, and the feed for the
animals extremely poor. The brush lined the creek thickly, and
consisted chiefly of acacia pendula and box. The country preserved an
uniform level, nor did Mr. Hume, from the highest trees, observe any
break on the horizon.
On the 2nd of January, Mr. Hume kept more northerly, being unable to
penetrate the brushes he encountered. At two miles he crossed a creek
leading to the N.W., between which and the place at which he had slept,
he passed a native burial ground, containing eight graves. The earth
was piled up in a conical shape, but the trees were not carved over as
he had seen them in most other places.
The country became more open after he had passed the last mentioned
creek, which he again struck upon at the distance of eight miles, and
as it was then leading to the N.N.E. he followed it down for eighteen
or twenty miles, and crossed it frequently during the day. The creek
was dry in most places, and where he stopped for the night the water
was bad, and the cattle feed indifferent.
Mr. Hume saw many huts, but none of them had been recently occupied,
although large quantities of muscle-shells were scattered about. He
computed that he had travelled about thirty miles, in a N.N.W.
direction, and the whole of the land he passed over was, generally
speaking, bad, nor did it appear to be subject to overflow.
On the 3rd, Mr. Hume proceeded down the creek on which he had slept, on
a northern course, under an impression that it would have joined the
Castlereagh, but it took a N.W. direction after he had ridden about
four miles, and then turned again to the eastward of north. In
consequence of this, he left it, and proceeded to the westward, being
of opinion that the river just mentioned must have taken a more
northerly course than Mr. Oxley supposed it to have done.
A short time after Mr. Hume turned towards the Macquarie, the country
assumed a more pleasing appearance. He soon cleared the brushes, and at
two miles came upon a chain of ponds, again running northerly in times
of flood. Shortly after crossing these, he found himself on an
extensive plain, apparently subject to overflow. The timber on it was
chiefly of the blue-gum kind, and the ground was covered with shells.
He then thought he was approaching the Macquarie, and proceeded due
west across the flat for about two miles. At the extremity of it there
was a hollow, which he searched in vain for water. Ascending about
thirty feet, he entered a thick brush of box and acacia pendula, which
continued for fourteen miles, when it terminated abruptly, and
extensive plains of good soil commenced, stretching from N. to S. as
far as the eye could reach, on which there were many kangaroos.
Continuing to journey over them, he reached a creek at 5 p.m. on which
the wild fowl were numerous, running nearly north and south, and he
rested on its banks for the night. The timber consisted both of blue
and rough gum, and the soil was a light earth.
Mr. Hume expected in the course of the day to have reached the
Macquarie, but on arriving at the creek, he began to doubt whether it
any longer existed, or whether it had not taken a more westerly
direction. On the following morning, therefore, he crossed the creek,
and travelled W.S.W., for about two miles over good plains; then
through light brushes of swamp-oak, cypress, box, and acacia pendula,
for about twelve miles, to another creek leading northerly. He shortly
afterwards ascended a range of hills stretching W.N.W. to which he gave
the name of New Year's Range. From these hills, he had an extensive
view, although not upon the highest part, but the only break he could
see in the horizon was caused by some hills bearing by compass W. by S.
distant about twenty-five miles. There was, however, an appearance as
of high land to the northward, although Mr. Hume thought it might have
been an atmospheric deception. From the range he looked in vain for the
Macquarie, or other waters, and, as his provisions were nearly
consumed, he was obliged to give up all further pursuit, and to retrace
his steps. He fell in with two parties of natives, which, taken
collectively, amounted to thirty-five in number, but had no
communication with them.
It was evident, from the above account, that supposing a line to have
been drawn from the camp northerly, Mr. Hume must have travelled
considerably to the westward of it, and as I had run on a N.W. course
from the marshes, it necessarily followed that our lines of route must
have intersected each other, or that want of extension could alone have
prevented them from having done so; but that, under any circumstances,
they could not have been very far apart. This was too important a point
to be left undecided, as upon it the question of the Macquarie's
termination seemed to depend.
Both Mr. Hume and myself were of opinion, that a medium course would be
the most satisfactory for us to pursue, to decide this point; and it
appeared that we could not do better than, by availing ourselves of the
creek on which we were, and skirting the reeds, to take the first
opportunity of dashing through them in a westerly direction.
DOUBTS OF THE FURTHER EXTENSION OF THE RIVER.
I entertained great doubts as to the longer existence of the river, and
as I foresaw that, in the event of its having terminated we should
strike at once into the heart of the interior, I became anxious for the
arrival of supplies at Mount Harris; and although I could hardly expect
that they had yet reached it, I determined to proceed thither. Mr. Hume
was too unwell for me to think of imposing additional fatigue upon him;
I left him, therefore, to conduct the party, by easy stages, to the
northward, until such time as I should overtake them. Even in one day
there was a visible improvement in the men, and Dawber's attack seemed
to be rather the effects of cold than of any thing else. A death,
however, under our circumstances, would have been so truly deplorable
an event, that the least illness was sufficient to create alarm.
I can hardly say that I was disappointed on my arrival at Mount Harris,
to find its neighbourhood silent and deserted. I remained, however,
under it for the greater part of the next day, and, prior to leaving
it, placed a sheet of paper with written instructions against a tree,
though almost without a hope that it would remain untouched.
PERPLEXING SITUATION.
A little after sun-set we reached the first small marsh, at which we
slept; and on the following morning I crossed the plains of the
Macquarie, and joined the party at about fifteen miles from the creek
at which I had left it. I found it in a condition that was as unlooked
for by Mr. Hume as it was unexpected by me, and really in a most
perplexing situation.
On the day I left him, Mr. Hume only advanced about two miles, in
consequence of some derangement in the loads. Having crossed the creek,
he, the next morning, proceeded down its right bank, until it entered
the marshes and was lost. He then continued to move on the outskirts of
the latter, and having performed a journey or about eight miles, was
anxious to have stopped, but there was no water at hand. The men,
however, were so fatigued, in consequence of previous illness, that he
felt it necessary to halt after travelling about eleven miles.
No water could be procured even here, notwithstanding that Mr. Hume,
who was quite unfit for great exertion, underwent considerable bodily
fatigue in his anxiety to find some. He was, therefore, obliged to move
early on the following morning, but neither men nor animals were in a
condition to travel; and he had scarcely made three miles' progress,
when he stopped and endeavoured to obtain a supply or water by digging
pits among the reeds. From these he had drawn sufficient for the wants
of the people when I arrived. Some rain had fallen on the 6th and 7th
of the month, or it is more than probable the expedient to which he
resorted would have failed of success. Mr. Hume, I was sorry to
observe, looked very unwell; but nothing could prevent him from further
endeavours to extricate the party from its present embarrassment.
JOURNEY CONTINUED.
As soon as I had taken a little refreshment, therefore, I mounted a
fresh horse; and he accompanied me across a small plain, immediately in
front of the camp, which was subject to overflow and covered with
polygonum, having a considerable extent of reeds to its right.
From the plain we entered a wood of blue-gum, in which reeds, grass,
and brush formed a thick coppice. We at length passed into an open
space, surrounded on every side by weeds in dense bodies. The great
marsh bore south of us, and was clear and open, but behind us the
blue-gum trees formed a thick wood above the weeds.
About two hundred yards from the outskirts of the marsh there was a
line of saplings that had perished, and round about them a number of
the tern tribe (sea swallow) were flying, one of which Mr. Hume had
followed a considerable way into the reeds the evening before, in the
hope that it would have led him to water. The circumstance of their
being in such numbers led us to penetrate towards them, when we found a
serpentine sheet of water of some length, over which they were playing.
We had scarcely time to examine it before night closed in upon us, and
it was after nine when we returned to the tents.
From the general appearance of the country to the northward, and from
the circumstance of our having got to the bottom of the great marsh,
which but a few days before had threatened to be so formidable, I
thought it probable that the reeds would not again prove so extensive
as they had been, and I determined, if I could do so, to push through
them in a westerly direction from our position.
SECOND GREAT MARSH.
The pits yielded us so abundant a supply during the night, that in the
morning we found it unnecessary to take the animals to water at the
channel we had succeeded in finding the evening before; but pursuing a
westerly course we passed it, and struck deep into the reeds. At
mid-day we were hemmed in by them on every side, and had crossed over
numerous channels, by means of which the waters of the marshes are
equally and generally distributed over the space subject to their
influence. Coming to a second sheet of water, narrower, but longer, as
well as we could judge, than the first, we stopped to dine at it; and,
while the men were resting themselves, Mr. Hume rode with me in a
westerly direction, to ascertain what obstacles we still had to contend
with. Forcing our way through bodies of reeds, we at length got on a
plain, stretching from S.E. to N.W., bounded on the right by a wood of
blue-gum, under which the reeds still extended, and on the left by a
wood in which they did not appear to exist. Certain that there was no
serious obstacle in our way, we returned to the men; and as soon as
they had finished their meal, led them over the plain in a N.W. by W.
direction. It was covered with shells, and was full of holes from the
effects of flood.
CONCLUSIONS IN REGARD TO THE MACQUARIE.
As we were journeying over it, I requested Mr. Hume to ride into the
wood upon our left, to ascertain if it concealed any channel. On his
return he informed me that he descended from the plain into a hollow,
the bottom of which was covered with small shells and bulrushes. He
observed a new species of eucalypti, on the trunks of which the
water-mark was three feet high. After crossing this hollow, which was
about a quarter of a mile in breadth, he gained an open forest of box,
having good grass under it; and, judging from the appearance of the
country that no other channel could exist beyond him, and that he had
ascertained sufficient for the object I had in view, he turned back to
the plain. We stopped for the night under a wood of box, where the
grass, which had been burnt down, was then springing up most
beautifully green, and was relished exceedingly by the animals.
It was in consequence of our not having crossed any channel, while
penetrating through the reeds, that could by any possible exaggeration
have been laid down as the bed of the river, that I detached Mr. Hume;
and the account he brought me at once confirmed my opinion in regard to
the Macquarie, and I thenceforth gave up every hope of ever seeing it
in its characteristic shape again.
Independently however of all circumstantial evidence, it was clear that
the river had not re-formed at a distance of twenty-five miles to the
north of us, since Mr. Hume had gone to the westward of that point, at
about the same distance on his late journey, without having observed
the least appearance of reeds or of a river. He had, indeed, noticed a
hollow, which occasionally contained water, but he saw nothing like the
bed of a permanent stream. I became convinced, also, from observation
of the country through which we had passed, that the sources of the
Macquarie could not be of such magnitude as to give a constant flow to
it as a river, and at the same time to supply with water the vast
concavity into which it falls. In very heavy rains only could the
marshes and adjacent lands be laid wholly under water, since the
evaporation alone would be equal to the supply.
The great plains stretching for so many miles to the westward of Mount
Harris, even where they were clear of reeds, were covered with shells
and the claws of cray-fish and their soil, although an alluvial
deposit, was superficially sandy. They bore the appearance not only of
frequent inundation, but of the floods having eventually subsided upon
them. This was particularly observable at the bottom of the marshes. We
did not find any accumulation of rubbish to indicate a rush of water to
any one point; but numerous minor channels existed to distribute the
floods equally and generally over every part of the area subject to
them, and the marks of inundation and subsidence were everywhere the
same. The plain we had last crossed, was, in like manner, covered with
shells, so that we could not yet be said to be out of the influence of
the marshes; besides which we had not crossed the hollow noticed by Mr.
Hume, which it was clear we should do, sooner or later.
SITUATION OF THE PARTY.
To have remained in our position would have been impossible, as there
was no water either for ourselves or the animals; to have descended
into the reeds again, for the purpose of carrying on a minute survey,
would, under existing circumstances, have been imprudent. Our
provisions were running short, and if a knowledge of the distant
interior was to be gained, we had no time to lose. It was determined,
therefore, to defer our further examination of the marshes to the
period of our return; and to pursue such a course as would soonest and
most effectually enable us to determine the character of the western
interior.
CHAPTER II.
Prosecution of our course into the interior--Mosquito Brush--Aspect and
productions of the country--Hunting party of natives--Courageous
conduct of one of them--Mosquitoes--A man missing--Group of hills
called New-Year's Range--Journey down New-Year's Creek--Tormenting
attack of the kangaroo fly--Dreariness and desolation of the
country--Oxley's Table Land--D'Urban's Group--Continue our journey down
New-Year's Creek--Extreme Disappointment on finding it salt--Fall in
with a tribe of natives--Our course arrested by the want of fresh
water--Extraordinary sound--Retreat towards the Macquarie.
We left our position at the head of the plain early on the 13th of
January, and, ere the sun dipped, had entered a very different country
from that in which we had been labouring for the last three weeks. We
had, as yet, passed over little other than an alluvial soil, but found
that it changed to a red loam in the brushes immediately backing the
camp. An open forest track succeeded this, over which the vegetation
had an unusual freshness, indicating that the waters had not long
subsided from its surface. We shortly afterwards crossed a hollow,
similar to that Mr. Hume had described, in which bulrushes had taken
the place of reeds. Flooded-gum trees, of large size, were also growing
in it, but on either side box alone prevailed, under which the forest
grass grew to a considerable height. We crossed the hollow two or three
times, and as often remarked the line of separation between those
trees. The last time we crossed it the country rose a few feet, and we
journeyed for the remainder of the day, at one time over good plains,
at another through brushes, until we found water and feed, at which we
stopped for the night, after having travelling about thirteen miles on
a W. by N. course. The mosquitoes were so extremely troublesome at this
place that we called it Mosquito Brush. At this time my men were
improving rapidly, and Mr. Hume complained less, and looked better. I
hoped, therefore, that our progress would be rapid into the interior.
CREEK LEADING NORTHERLY; PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY.
On the 14th we took up a westerly course, and in the first instance
traversed a plain of great extent; the soil of which was for the most
part a red sandy loam, but having patches of light earth upon it. The
former was covered with plants of the chenopedia kind; the latter had
evidently been quagmires, and bore even then the appearance of
moisture. At about seven miles from Mosquito Brush we struck upon a
creek of excellent water, upon which the wild fowl were numerous. Some
natives was seen, but they were only women, and seemed so alarmed that
I purposely avoided them. As the creek was leading northerly, we traced
it down on that course for about seven miles, and then halted upon its
banks, which were composed of a light tenacious earth. Brushes of
casuarina existed near it, but a tortuous box was the prevailing tree,
which, excepting for the knees of small vessels, could not have been
applied to any use, while the flooded-gum had entirely disappeared.
Some ducks were shot in the afternoon, which proved a great treat, as
we had been living for some time on salt provisions. Our animals fared
worse than ourselves, as the bed of the creek was occupied by coarse
rushes, and but little vegetation was elsewhere to be seen. I here
killed a beautiful snake, of about four feet in length, and of a bright
yellow colour: I had not, however, the means of preserving it. Fraser
collected numerous botanical specimens, and among them two kinds of
caparis. Indeed a great alteration had taken place in the minor shrubs,
and few of those now prevalent had been observed to the eastward of the
marshes.
From the creek, which both I and Mr. Hume must have crossed on our
respective journeys, we held a westerly course for about fifteen miles,
through a country of alternate plain and brush, the latter
predominating, and in its general character differing but little from
that we had traversed the day previous.
The acacia pendula still continued to exist on the plains backed by
dark rows of cypresses (Cupressus callitris). In the brushes, box and
casuarina (Casuarina tortuosa), with several other kinds of eucalypti,
prevailed; but none of them were sufficiently large to be of use. The
plains were so extremely level that a meridian altitude could have been
taken without any material error; and I doubt much whether it would
have been possible to have traversed them had the season been wet.
HUNTING PARTY OF NATIVES.
As we were travelling through a forest we surprised a hunting party of
natives. Mr. Hume and I were considerably in front of our party at the
time, and he only had his gun with him. We had been moving along so
quietly that we were not for some time observed by them. Three were
seated on the ground, under a tree, and two others were busily employed
on one of the lower branches cutting out honey. As soon as they saw us,
four of them ran away; but the fifth, who wore a cap of emu feathers,
stood for a moment looking at us, and then very deliberately dropped
out of the tree to the ground. I then advanced towards him, but before
I got round a bush that intervened, he had darted away. I was fearful
that he was gone to collect his tribe, and, under this impression, rode
quickly back for my gun to support Mr. Hume. On my arrival I found the
native was before me. He stood about twenty paces from Mr. Hume, who
was endeavouring to explain what he was; but seeing me approach he
immediately poised his spear at him, as being the nearest. Mr. Hume
then unslung his carbine, and presented it; but, as it was evident my
re-appearance had startled the savage, I pulled up; and he immediately
lowered his weapon. His coolness and courage surprised me, and
increased my desire to communicate with him. He had evidently taken
both man and horse for one animal, and as long as Mr. Hume kept his
seat, the native remained upon his guard; but when he saw him dismount,
after the first astonishment had subsided, he stuck his spear into the
ground, and walked fearlessly up to him. We easily made him comprehend
that we were in search of water; when he pointed to the west, as
indicating that we should supply our wants there. He gave his
information in a frank and manly way, without the least embarrassment,
and when the party passed, he stepped back to avoid the animals,
without the smallest confusion. I am sure he was a very brave man; and
I left him with the most favourable impressions, and not without hope
that he would follow us.
From a more open forest, we entered a dense scrub, the soil in which
was of a bright-red colour and extremely sandy, and the timber of
various kinds. A leafless species of stenochylus aphylta, which, from
the resemblance, I at first thought one of the polygonum tribe, was
very abundant in the open spaces, and the young cypresses were
occasionally so close as to turn us from the direction in which we had
been moving. In the scrub we crossed Mr. Hume's tract, and, from the
appearance of the ground, I was led to believe mine could not be very
distant.
FATE OF THE MACQUARIE.
We struck upon a creek late in the afternoon, at which we stopped; New
Year's Range bearing nearly due west at about four miles' distance. Had
we struck upon my track, the question about which we were so anxious
would still have been undecided; but the circumstance of our having
crossed Mr. Hume's, which, from its direction, could not be mistaken,
convinced me of the fate of the Macquarie, and I felt assured that,
whatever channels it might have for the distribution of its waters, to
the north of our line of route, the equality of surface of the interior
would never permit it again to form a river; and that it only required
an examination of the lower parts of the marshes to confirm the theory
of the ultimate evaporation and absorption of its waters, instead of
their contributing to the permanence of an inland sea, as Mr. Oxley had
supposed.
NEW YEAR'S RANGE.
On the 17th of January we encamped under New Year's Range, which is the
first elevation in the interior of Eastern Australia to the westward of
Mount Harris. Yet when at its base, I do not think that we had ascended
above forty feet higher than the plains in the neighbourhood of that
last mentioned eminence. There certainly is a partial rise of country,
where the change of soil takes place from the alluvial deposits of the
marshes, to the sandy loam so prevalent on the plains we had lately
traversed; but I had to regret that I was unable to decide so
interesting a question by other than bare conjecture.
Notwithstanding that Mr. Hume had already been on them, I encouraged
hopes that a second survey of the country from the highest point of New
Year's Range would enable us to form some opinion of it, by which to
direct our future movements; but I was disappointed.
The two wooded hills I had seen from Oxley's Table Land were visible
from the range, bearing south; and other eminences bore by compass S.W.
and W. by S.; but in every other direction the horizon was unbroken. To
the westward, there appeared to be a valley of considerable extent,
stretching N. and S., in which latter direction there was a long strip
of cleared ground, that looked very like the sandy bed of a broad and
rapid river. The bare possibility of the reality determined me to
ascertain by inspection, whether my conjecture was right, and Mr. Hume
accompanied me on this excursion. After we left the camp we crossed a
part of the range, and travelled for some time through open forest land
that would afford excellent grazing in most seasons. We passed some
hollows, and noticed many huts that had been occupied near them; but
the hollows were now quite dry, and the huts had been long deserted.
After about ten miles' ride we reached a plain of white sand, from
which New Year's Range was distinctly visible; and this no doubt was
the spot that had attracted my attention. Pools of water continued on
it, from which circumstance it would appear that the sand had a
substratum of clay or marl. From this plain we proceeded southerly
through acacia scrub, bounding gently undulating forest land, and at
length ascended some small elevations that scarcely deserved the name
of hills. They had fragments of quartz profusely scattered over them;
and the soil, which was sandy, contained particles of mica.
MOSQUITOES.
The view from them was confused, nor did any fresh object meet our
observation. We had, however, considerably neared the two wooded hills,
and the elevations that from the range were to the S.W., now bore N.W.
of us. We had wandered too far from the camp to admit of our returning
to it to sleep; we therefore commenced a search for water, and having
found some, we tethered our horses near it for the night, and should
have been tolerably comfortable, had not the mosquitoes been so
extremely troublesome. They defied the power of smoke, and annoyed me
so much, that, hot as it was, I rolled myself in my boat cloak, and
perspired in consequence to such a degree, that my clothes were wet
through, and I had to stand at the fire in the morning to dry them. Mr.
Hume, who could not bear such confinement, suffered the penalty, and
was most unmercifully bitten.
A MAN MISSING.
We reached the camp about noon the following day, and learnt, to our
vexation, that one of the men, Norman, had lost himself shortly after
we started, and had not since been heard of. Dawber, my overseer, was
out in search of him. I awaited his return, therefore, before I took
any measures for the man's recovery; nor was I without hopes that
Dawber would have found him, as it appeared he had taken one of the
horses with him, and Dawber, by keeping his tracks, might eventually
have overtaken him. He returned, however, about 3 p.m. unsuccessful,
when Mr. Hume and I mounted our horses, and proceeded in different
directions in quest of him, but were equally disappointed.
We met at the creek in the dark, and returned to the camp together,
when I ordered the cypresses on the range to be set on fire, and thus
illuminated the country round for many miles. In the morning, however,
as Norman had not made his appearance, we again started in search of
the poor fellow, on whose account I was now most uneasy; for his horse,
it appeared, had escaped him, and was found with the others at watering
time.
I did not return to the camp until after sunset, more fatigued than I
recollect ever having been before. I was, however, rejoiced on being
informed that the object of my anxiety was safe in his tent; that he
had caught sight of the hill the evening before, and that he had
reached the camp shortly after I left it. He had been absent three
nights and two days, and had not tasted water or food of any kind
during that time.
To my enquiries he replied, that, being on horseback, he thought he
could have overtaken a kangaroo, which passed him whilst waiting at the
creek for the cattle, and that in the attempt, he lost himself. It
would appear that he crossed the creek in the dark, and his horse
escaped from him on the first night. He complained more of thirst than
of hunger, although he had drunk at the watering-place to such an
excess, on his return, as to make him vomit; but, though not a little
exhausted, he had escaped better than I should have expected.
COUNTRY AROUND NEW YEAR'S RANGE.
New Year's Range consists of a principal group of five hills, the
loftiest of which does not measure 300 feet in height. It has lateral
ridges, extending to the N.N.W. on the one hand, and bending in to the
creek on the other. The former have a few cypresses, sterculia, and
iron bark upon them; the latter are generally covered with brush, under
box; the brush for the most part consisting of two distinct species of
stenochylus, and a new acacia. The whole range is of quartz formation,
small fragments of which are profusely scattered over the ridges, and
are abundantly incrusted with oxide of iron. The soil in the
neighbourhood of New Year's Range is a red loam, with a slight mixture
of sand. An open forest country lies between it and the creek, and it
is not at all deficient in pasture.
NEW YEAR'S CREEK.
That a change of soil takes place to the westward of the creek, is
obvious, from the change of vegetation, the most remarkable feature of
which is the sudden check given to the further extension of the acacia
pendula, which is not to be found beyond it, it being succeeded by
another acacia of the same species and habits; neither do the plants of
the chenopedia class exist in the immediate vicinity of the range.
I place these hills, as far as my observations will allow, in east lon.
146 degrees 32 minutes 15 seconds, and in lat. 30 degrees 21 minutes
south; the variation of the compass being 6 degrees 40 minutes easterly.
As New Year's Creek was leading northerly, it had been determined to
trace it down as long as it should keep that course, or one to the
westward of it. We broke up the camp, therefore, under the range, on
the evening of the 18th, and moved to the creek, about two miles north
of the place at which we had before crossed it, with the intention of
prosecuting our journey on the morrow. But both Mr. Hume and I were so
fatigued that we were glad of an opportunity to rest, even for a single
day. We remained stationary, therefore, on the 19th; nor was I without
hope that the natives whom we had surprised in the woods, would have
paid us a visit, since Mr. Hume had met them in his search for Norman,
and they had promised not only to come to us, but to do all in their
power to find the man, whose footsteps some of them had crossed. They
did not, however, venture near us; and I rather attribute their having
kept aloof, to the circumstance of Mr. Hume's having fired a shot,
shortly after he left them, as a signal to Norman, in the event of his
being within hearing of the report. They must have been alarmed at so
unusual a sound; but I am sure nothing was further from Mr. Hume's
intention than to intimidate them; his knowledge of their manners and
customs, as well as his partiality to the natives, being equally
remarkable. The circumstance is, however, a proof of the great caution
that is necessary in communicating with them.
ANNOYED BY KANGAROO FLIES.
I have said that we remained stationary the day after we left the
range, with a view to enjoy a little rest; it would, however, have been
infinitely better if we had moved forward. Our camp was infested by the
kangaroo fly, which settled upon us in thousands. They appeared to rise
from the ground, and as fast as they were swept off were succeeded by
fresh numbers. It was utterly impossible to avoid their persecution,
penetrating as they did into the very tents.
The men were obliged to put handkerchiefs over their faces, and
stockings upon their hands; but they bit through every thing. It was to
no purpose that I myself shifted from place to place; they still
followed, or were equally numerous everywhere. To add to our
discomfort, the animals were driven almost to madness, and galloped to
and fro in so furious a manner that I was apprehensive some of them
would have been lost. I never experienced such a day of torment; and
only when the sun set, did these little creatures cease from their
attacks.
SUDDENLY RELIEVED.
It will be supposed that we did not stay to subject ourselves to
another trial; indeed it was with some degree of horror that the men
saw the first light of morning streak the horizon. They got up
immediately, and we moved down the creek, on a northerly course,
without breakfasting as usual. We found that dense brushes of casuarina
lined the creek on both sides, beyond which, to our left, there was
open rising ground, on which eucalypti, cypresses, and the acacia
longifolia, prevailed; whilst to the east, plains seemed to predominate.
Although we had left the immediate spot at which the kangaroo flies
(cabarus) seemed to be collected, I did not expect that we should have
got rid of them so completely as we did. None of them were seen during
the day; a proof that they were entirely local. They were about half
the size of a common house fly, had flat brown bodies, and their bite,
although sharp and piercing, left no irritation after it.
About noon we stopped at the creek side to take some refreshment. The
country bore an improved appearance around us, and the cattle found
abundance of pasture. It was evident that the creek had been numerously
frequented by the natives, although no recent traces of them could be
found. It had a bed of coarse red granite, of the fragments of which
the natives had constructed a weir for the purpose of taking fish. The
appearance of this rock in so isolated a situation, is worthy of the
consideration of geologists.
DESOLATION OF THE COUNTRY.
The promise of improvement I have noticed, gradually disappeared as we
proceeded on our day's journey, and we at length found ourselves once
more among brushes, and on the edge of plains, over which the rhagodia
prevailed. Nothing could exceed in dreariness the appearance of the
tracks through which we journeyed, on this and the two following days.
The creek on which we depended for a supply of water, gave such
alarming indications of a total failure, that I at one time, had
serious thoughts of abandoning my pursuit of it. We passed hollow after
hollow that had successively dried up, although originally of
considerable depth; and, when we at length found water, it was doubtful
how far we could make use of it. Sometimes in boiling it left a
sediment nearly equal to half its body; at other times it was so bitter
as to be quite unpalatable. That on which we subsisted was scraped up
from small puddles, heated by the sun's rays; and so uncertain were we
of finding water at the end of the day's journey, that we were obliged
to carry a supply on one of the bullocks. There was scarcely a living
creature, even of the feathered race, to be seen to break the stillness
of the forest. The native dogs alone wandered about, though they had
scarcely strength to avoid us; and their melancholy howl, breaking in
upon the ear at the dead of the night, only served to impress more
fully on the mind the absolute loneliness of the desert.
It appeared, from their traces that the natives had lingered on this
ground, on which they had perhaps been born, as long as it continued to
afford them a scanty though precarious subsistence; but that they had
at length been forced from it. Neither fish nor muscles remained in the
creek, nor emus nor kangaroos on the plains. How then could an European
expect to find food in deserts through which the savage wandered in
vain? There is no doubt of the fate that would have overtaken any one
of the party who might have strayed away, and I was happy to find that
Norman's narrow escape had made a due impression on the minds of his
comrades.
SANDY PLAINS; LEAVE THE CREEK.
We passed some considerable plains, lying to the eastward of the creek,
on parts of which the grass, though growing in tufts, was of luxuriant
growth. They were, however, more generally covered with salsola and
rhagodia, and totally destitute of other vegetation, the soil upon them
being a red sandy loam. The paths across the plains, which varied in
breadth from three to eight miles, were numerous; but they had not been
recently trodden. The creek continued to have a thick brush of
casuarina and acacia near it, to the westward of which there was a
rising open forest track; the timber upon it being chiefly box,
cypress, and the acacia longifolia. It was most probably connected with
New Year's Range, those elevations being about thirty miles distant. It
terminated in some gentle hills which, though covered in places with
acacia shrub, were sufficiently open to afford an extensive view. From
their summit Oxley's Table Land, towards which we had been gradually
working our way, was distinctly visible, distant about twenty miles,
and bearing by compass W. by S. On descending from these hills (called
the Pink Hills, from the colour of a flower upon them) which were
scattered over with fragments of slaty quartz, we traversed a box flat,
apparently subject to overflow, having a barren sandy scrub to its
left. I had desired the men to preserve a W.N.W. direction, on leaving
them, supposing that that course would have kept them near the creek;
but, on overtaking the party, I found that they had wandered completely
away from it. The fact was, that the creek had taken a sudden bend to
the eastward of N. and had thus thrown them out. It was with some
difficulty that we regained it before sunset; and we were at length
obliged to stop for the night at a small plain, about a quarter of a
mile short of it, but we had the satisfaction of having excellent feed
for the animals.
OXLEY'S TABLE LAND.
Fearful that New Year's Creek would take us too far to the eastward,
and being anxious to keep westward as much as possible, it struck me
that we could not, under existing circumstances, do better than make
for Oxley's Table Land. Water, I knew, we should find in a swamp at
it's base, and we might discover some more encouraging feature than I
had observed on my hasty visit to it. We left the creek, therefore on
the 23rd, and once more took up a westerly course. Passing through a
generally open country, we stopped at noon to rest the animals; and
afterwards got on an excellent grazing forest track, which continued to
the brush, through another part of which I had penetrated to the marsh
more to the south. While making our way through it, we came upon a
small pond of water, and must have alarmed some natives, as there was a
fresh made fire close to it. Our journey had been unusually long, and
the cattle had felt the heat so much, that the moment they saw water
they rushed into it; and, as this created some confusion, I thought it
best to stop where we were for the night.
In the morning, Mr. Hume walked with me to the hill, a distance of
about a mile. It is not high enough to deserve the name of a mountain,
although a beautiful feature in the country, and showing well from any
point of view. We ascended it with an anxiety that may well be
imagined, but were wholly disappointed in our most sanguine
expectations. Our chief object, in this second visit to Oxley's Table
Land, had been to examine, more at leisure, the face of the country
around it, and to discover, if possible, some fixed point on which to
move.
If the rivers of the interior had already exhausted themselves, what
had we to expect from a creek whose diminished appearance where we left
it made us apprehend its speedy termination, and whose banks we
traversed under constant apprehension? In any other country I should
have followed such a water course, in hopes of its ultimately leading
to some reservoir; but here I could encourage no such favourable
anticipation.
The only new object that struck our sight was a remarkable and distant
hill of conical shape, bearing by compass S. 10 E. To the southward and
westward, in the direction of D'Urban's Group, a dense and apparently
low brush extended; but to the N. and N.W., there was a regular
alternation of wood and plain. I left Mr. Hume upon the hill, that he
might the more readily notice any smoke made by the natives; and
returned myself to the camp about one o'clock, to move the party to the
swamp. Mr. Hume's perseverance was of little avail. The region he had
been overlooking was, to all appearance, uninhabited, nor did a single
fire indicate that there was even a solitary wanderer upon its surface.
EXCURSION TO D'URBAN'S GROUP.
Our situation, at this time, was extremely embarrassing, and the only
circumstance on which we had to congratulate ourselves was, the
improved condition of our men; for several of the cattle and horses
were in a sad plight. The weather had been so extremely oppressive,
that we had found it impossible to keep them free from eruptions. I
proposed to Mr. Hume, therefore, to give them a few days' rest, and to
make an excursion, with such of them as were serviceable, to D'Urban's
Group. We were both of us unwilling to return to the creek, but we
foresaw that a blind reliance upon fortune, in our next movements,
might involve us in inextricable difficulty.
On the other hand, there was a very great risk in delay. It was more
than probable, from the continued drought, that our retreat would be
cut off from the want of water, or that we should only be enabled to
effect our retreat with loss of most of the animals. The hope, however,
of our intersecting some stream, or of falling upon a better country,
prevailed over other considerations; and the excursion was,
consequently, determined upon.
DISTRESS FROM WANT OF WATER.
We left the camp on the 25th, accompanied by Hopkinson and the tinker;
and, almost immediately after, entered an acacia scrub of the most
sterile description, and one, through which it would have been
impossible to have found a passage for the boat carriage. The soil was
almost a pure sand, and the lower branches of the trees were decayed so
generally as to give the whole an indescribable appearance of
desolation. About mid-day, we crossed a light sandy plain, on which
there were some dirty puddles of water. They were so shallow as to
leave the backs of the frogs in them exposed, and they had, in
consequence, been destroyed by solar heat, and were in a state of
putrefaction. Our horses refused to drink, but it was evident that some
natives must have partaken of this sickening beverage only a few hours
before our arrival. Indeed, it was clear that a wandering family must
have slept near this spot, as we observed a fresh made gunneah (or
native hut), and their foot-prints were so fresh along the line we were
pursuing, that we momentarily expected to have overtaken them. It was
late in the evening when we got out of this brush into better and more
open ground, where, in ordinary seasons we should, no doubt, have found
abundance of water. But we now searched in vain for it, and were
contented to be enabled to give our wearied animals better food than
they had tasted for many days, the forest grass, though in tufts, being
abundant.
We brought up for the night at the edge of a scrub, having travelled
from thirty-two to thirty-five miles, judging the distance from the
mountains still to be about twelve.
BEARINGS FROM OXLEY'S TABLE LAND.
In the morning we started at an early hour, and immediately entered the
brush, beneath which we had slept; pursuing a westerly course through
it. After a short ride, we found ourselves upon a plain, that was
crowded with flocks of cockatoos. Here we got a supply of water, such
as it was--so mixed with slime as to hang in strings between the
fingers; and, after a hasty breakfast, we proceeded on our journey,
mostly through a barren sandy scrub that was a perfect burrow from the
number of wombats in it, to within a mile of the hill group, where the
country appeared like one continuous meadow to the very base of them. I
never saw anything like the luxuriance of the grass on this tract of
country, waving as it did higher than our horses' middles as we rode
through it. We ascended the S.W. face of the mountain to an elevation
of at least 800 feet above the level of the plain, and had some
difficulty in scaling the masses of rock that opposed themselves to our
progress. But on gaining the summit, we were amply repaid for our
trouble. The view extended far and wide, but we were again disappointed
in the main object that had induced us to undertake the journey. I took
the following bearings by compass. Oxley's Table Land bore N. 40 E.
distant forty-five miles; small and distant hill due E.; conical peak
seen from Oxley's Table Land S. 60 E., very distant; long ridge of high
land, S.E., distant thirty-five miles; high land, S. 30 E., distant
thirty miles; long range, S. 25 W.
To the westward, as a medium point, the horizon was unbroken, and the
eye wandered over an apparently endless succession of wood and plain. A
brighter green than usual marked the course of the mountain torrents in
several places, but there was no glittering light among the trees, no
smoke to betray a water hole, or to tell that a single inhabitant was
traversing the extensive region we were overlooking. We were obliged to
return to the plain on which we had breakfasted, and to sleep upon it.
D'URBAN'S GROUP.
D'Urban's Group is of compact sandstone formation. Its extreme length
is from E.S.E. to W.N.W., and cannot be more than from seven to nine
miles, whilst its breadth is from two to four. The central space forms
a large basin, in which there are stunted pines and eucalyptus scrub,
amid huge fragments of rocks. It rises like an island from the midst of
the ocean, and as I looked upon it from the plains below, I could
without any great stretch of the imagination, picture to myself that it
really was such. Bold and precipitous, it only wanted the sea to lave
its base; and I cannot but think that such must at no very remote
period have been the case, and that the immense flat we had been
traversing, is of comparatively recent formation.
We reached the camp on the 28th of the month, by nearly the same route;
and were happy to find that, after the few days' rest they had enjoyed,
there was a considerable improvement in the animals.
Our experience of the nature of the country to the southward, and the
westward, was such as to deter us from risking anything, by taking such
a direction as was most agreeable to our views. Nothing remained to us
but to follow the creek, or to retreat; and as we could only be induced
to adopt the last measure when every other expedient should have
failed, we determined on pursuing our original plan, of tracing New
Year's Creek as far as practicable.
DESCRIPTION OF OXLEY'S TABLE LAND.
Oxley's Table Land is situated in lat. 29 degrees 57 minutes 30
seconds, and in E. long. 145 degrees 43 minutes 30 seconds, the mean
variation being 6.32 easterly. It consists of two hills that appear to
have been rent asunder by some convulsion of nature, since the passage
between them is narrow and their inner faces are equally perpendicular.
The hill which I have named after the late Surveyor-general, is steep
on all sides; but the other gradually declines from the south, and at
length loses itself in a large plain that extends to the north. It is
from four to five miles in length, and is picturesque in appearance,
and lightly wooded. A few cypresses were growing on Oxley's Table Land;
but it had, otherwise, very little timber upon its summit. Both hills
are of sandstone formation, and there are some hollows upon the last
that deserve particular notice. They have the appearance of having been
formed by eddies of water, being deeper in the centre than at any other
part, and contain fragments and slabs of sandstone of various size and
breadth, without a particle of soil or of sand between them. It is to
be observed that the edges of these slabs, which were perfect
parallelograms, were unbroken, and that they were as clean as if they
had only just been turned out of the hand of the mason. We counted
thirteen of these hollows in one spot about twenty-five feet in
diameter, but they are without doubt of periodical formation, since a
single hollow was observed lower than the summit of the hill upon its
south extremity, that had evidently long been exposed to the action of
the atmosphere, and had a general coating of moss over it.
CONTINUE THE JOURNEY; DOWN NEW YEAR'S CREEK.
We left Oxley's Table Land on the morning of the 31st of January,
pursuing a northern course through the brush and across a large plain,
moving parallel to the smaller hill, and keeping it upon our left. The
soil upon this plain differed in character from that on the plains to
the eastward, and was much freer from sand. We stopped to dine at a
spot, whence Oxley's Table Land bore by compass, S. by W., distant
about twelve miles. Continuing our journey, at 2 p.m. we cleared the
plain, and entered a tract covered with the polygonum junceum, on a
soil evidently the deposit of floods. Box-trees were thinly scattered
over it, and among the polygonum, the crested pigeons were numerous.
These general appearances, together with a dip of country to the
N.N.W., made us conclude that we were approaching the creek, and we
accordingly intersected it on a N.N.E. course, at about three miles'
distance from where we had dined. It had, however, undergone so
complete a change, and had increased so much in size and in the height
of its banks, that we were at a loss to recognize it. Still, with all
these favourable symptoms, there was not a drop of water in it. But
small shells lay in heaps in its bed, or were abundantly scattered over
it; and we remarked that they differed from those on the plains of the
Macquarie. A circumstance that surprised us much, was the re-appearance
of the flooded-gum upon its banks, and that too of a large size. We had
not seen any to the westward of the marshes, and we were, consequently,
led to indulge in more sanguine expectation as to our ultimate success
than we had ever ventured to do before.
The party crossed to the right bank of the creek, and then moved in a
westerly direction along it in search of water. A brush extended to our
right, and some broken stony ground, rather elevated, was visible, to
which Mr. Hume rode; nor did he join me again until after I had halted
the party for the night.
DISTRESSED FOR WATER.
My search for water had been unsuccessful, and the sun had set, when I
came upon a broad part of the creek that appeared very favourable for
an encampment, as it was encompassed by high banks, and would afford
the men a greater facility of watching the cattle, that I knew would
stray away if they could.
My anxiety for them led me to wander down the bed of the creek, when,
to my joy, I found a pond of water within a hundred yards of the tents.
It is impossible for me to describe the relief I felt at this success,
or the gladness it spread among the men. Mr. Hume joined me at dusk,
and informed me that he had made a circuit, and had struck upon the
creek about three miles below us but that, in tracing it up, he had not
found a drop of water until he came to the pond near which we had so
providentially encamped. On the following morning, we held a westerly
course over an open country for about eight miles and a half. The
prevailing timber appeared to be a species of eucalypti, with rough
bark, of small size, and evidently languishing from the want of
moisture. The soil over which we travelled was far from bad, but there
was a total absence of water upon it. At 6 p.m. Oxley's Table Land was
distant from us about fifteen miles, bearing S. 20 E. by compass.
We had not touched upon the creek from the time we left it in the
morning, having wandered from it in a northerly direction, along a
native path that we intersected, and that seemed to have been recently
trodden, since footsteps were fresh upon it. At sunset, we crossed a
broad dry creek that puzzled us extremely, and were shortly afterwards
obliged to stop for the night upon a plain beyond it. We had, during
the afternoon, bent down to the S.W. in hopes that we should again have
struck upon New Year's Creek; and, under an impression that we could
not be far from it, Mr. Hume and I walked across the plain, to
ascertain if it was sufficiently near to be of any service to us. We
came upon a creek, but could not decide whether it was the one for
which we had been searching, or another.
Its bed was so perfectly even that it was impossible to say to what
point it flowed, more especially as all remains of debris had mouldered
away. It was, however, extremely broad, and evidently, at times, held a
furious torrent. In the centre of it, at one of the angles, we
discovered a pole erected, and at first thought, from the manner in
which it was propped up, that some unfortunate European must have
placed it there as a mark to tell of his wanderings, but we afterwards
concluded that it might be some superstitious rite of the natives, in
consequence of the untowardness of the season, as it seemed almost
inconceivable that an European could have wandered to such a distance
from the located districts in safety.
REACH A LARGE RIVER.
The creek had flooded-gum growing upon its banks, and, on places
apparently subject to flood, a number of tall straight saplings were
observed by us. We returned to the camp, after a vain search for water,
and were really at a loss what direction next to pursue. The men kept
the cattle pretty well together, and, as we were not delayed by any
preparations for breakfast, they were saddled and loaded at an early
hour. The circumstance of there having been natives in the
neighbourhood, of whom we had seen so few traces of late, assured me
that water was at hand, but in what direction it was impossible to
guess. As the path we had observed was leading northerly, we took up
that course, and had not proceeded more than a mile upon it, when we
suddenly found ourselves on the banks of a noble river. Such it might
in truth be called, where water was scarcely to be found. The party
drew up upon a bank that was from forty to forty-five feet above the
level of the stream. The channel of the river was front seventy to
eighty yards broad, and enclosed an unbroken sheet of water, evidently
very deep, and literally covered with pelicans and other wild fowl. Our
surprise and delight may better be imagined than described. Our
difficulties seemed to be at an end, for here was a river that promised
to reward all our exertions, and which appeared every moment to
increase in importance to our imagination. Coming from the N.E., and
flowing to the S.W., it had a capacity of channel that proved that we
were as far from its source as from its termination. The paths of the
natives on either side of it were like well trodden roads; and the
trees that overhung it were of beautiful and gigantic growth.
DISAPPOINTMENT ON FINDING THE RIVER SALT.
Its banks were too precipitous to allow of our watering the cattle, but
the men eagerly descended to quench their thirst, which a powerful sun
had contributed to increase; nor shall I ever forget the cry of
amazement that followed their doing so, or the looks of terror and
disappointment with which they called out to inform me that the water
was so salt as to be unfit to drink! This was, indeed, too true: on
tasting it, I found it extremely nauseous, and strongly impregnated
with salt, being apparently a mixture of sea and fresh water. Whence
this arose, whether from local causes, or from a communication with
some inland sea, I knew not, but the discovery was certainly a blow for
which I was not prepared. Our hopes were annihilated at the moment of
their apparent realization. The cup of joy was dashed out of our hands
before we had time to raise it to our lips. Notwithstanding this
disappointment, we proceeded down the river, and halted at about five
miles, being influenced by the goodness of the feed to provide for the
cattle as well as circumstances would permit. They would not drink of
the river water, but stood covered in it for many hours, having their
noses alone exposed above the stream. Their condition gave me great
uneasiness. It was evident they could not long hold out under their
excessive thirst, and unless we should procure some fresh water, it
would impossible for us to continue our journey. On a closer
examination, the river appeared to me much below its ordinary level,
and its current was scarcely perceptible. We placed sticks to ascertain
if there was a rise or fall of tide, but could arrive at no
satisfactory conclusion, although there was undoubtedly a current in
it. Yet, as I stood upon its banks at sunset, when not a breath of air
existed to break the stillness of the waters below me, and saw their
surface kept in constant agitation by the leaping of fish, I doubted
whether the river could supply itself so abundantly, and the rather
imagined, that it owed such abundance, which the pelicans seemed to
indicate was constant, to some mediterranean sea or other. Where,
however, were the human inhabitants of this distant and singular
region? The signs of a numerous population were around us, but we had
not seen even a solitary wanderer. The water of the river was not, by
any means, so salt as that of the ocean, but its taste was precisely
similar. Could it be that its unnatural state had driven its
inhabitants from its banks?
One would have imagined that our perplexities would have been
sufficient for one day, but ere night closed, they increased upon us,
although our anxiety, with regard to the cattle, was happily removed.
Mr. Hume with his usual perseverance, walked out when the camp was
formed; and, at a little distance from it, ascended a ridge of pure
sand, crowned with cypresses. From this, he descended to the westward,
and, at length, struck upon the river, where a reef of rocks creased
its channel, and formed a dry passage from one side to the other; but
the bend, which the river must have taken, appeared to him so singular,
that he doubted whether it was the same beside which we had been
travelling during the day. Curiosity led him to cross it, when he found
a small pond of fresh water on a tongue of land, and, immediately
afterwards, returned to acquaint me with the welcome tidings. It was
too late to move, but we had, at least, the prospect of a comfortable
breakfast in the morning.
JUNCTION OF NEW YEAR'S CREEK.
In consequence of the doubts that hung upon Mr. Hume's mind, as to the
course of the river, we arranged that the animals should precede us to
the fresh water; and that we should keep close in upon the stream, to
ascertain that point. After traversing a deep bight, we arrived nearly
as soon as the party, at the appointed rendezvous. The rocks composing
the channel of the river at the crossing place, were of indurated clay.
In the course of an hour, the animals appearing quite refreshed, we
proceeded on our journey, and at about four miles crossed New Year's
Creek, at its junction with the salt river. We passed several parts of
the main channel that were perfectly dry, and were altogether at a loss
to account for the current we undoubtedly had observed in the river
when we first came upon it. At midday D'Urban's Group bore S. 65 E.
distant about 32 miles. We made a little westing in the afternoon. The
river continued to maintain its character and appearance, its lofty
banks, and its long still reaches: while, however, the blue-gum trees
upon its banks were of magnificent size, the soil had but little
vegetation upon it, although an alluvial deposit.
We passed over vast spaces covered with the polygonum junceum, that
bore all the appearance of the flooded tracks in the neighbourhood of
the marshes, and on which the travelling was equally distressing to the
animals. Indeed, it had been sufficiently evident to us that the waters
of this river were not always confined to its channel, capacious as it
was, but that they inundated a belt of barren land, that varied in
width from a quarter of a mile to a mile, when they were checked by an
outer embankment that prevented them from spreading generally over the
country, and upon the neighbouring plains. At our halting place, the
cattle drank sparingly of the water, but it acted as a violent
purgative both on them and the men who partook of it.
NATIVE VILLAGE.
On the 5th, the river led us to the southward and westward. Early in
the day, we passed a group of seventy huts, capable of holding from
twelve to fifteen men each. They appeared to be permanent habitations,
and all of them fronted the same point of the compass. In searching
amongst them we observed two beautifully made nets, of about ninety
yards in length. The one had much larger meshes than the other, and
was, most probably, intended to take kangaroos; but the other was
evidently a fishing net.
In one hut, the floor of which was swept with particular care, a number
of white balls, as of pulverised shells or lime, had been
deposited--the use of which we could not divine. A trench was formed
round the hut to prevent the rain from running under it, and the whole
was arranged with more than ordinary attention.
TERROR OF THE NATIVES.
We had not proceeded very far when we came suddenly upon the tribe to
which this village, as it might be called, belonged.
In breaking through some brush to an open space that was bounded on one
side by the river, we observed three or four natives, seated on a bank
at a considerable distance from us; and directly in the line on which
we were moving. The nature of the ground so completely favoured our
approach, that they did not become aware of it until we were within a
few yards of them, and had ascended a little ridge, which, as we
afterwards discovered, ended in an abrupt precipice upon the river, not
more than thirty yards to our right. The crack of the drayman's whip
was the first thing that aroused their attention. They gazed upon us
for a moment, and then started up and assumed an attitude of horror and
amazement; their terror apparently increasing upon them. We stood
perfectly immovable, until at length they gave a fearful yell, and
darted out of sight.
THEY FIRE THE BUSH.
Their cry brought about a dozen more natives from the river, whom we
had not before observed, but who now ran after their comrades with
surprising activity, and without once venturing to look behind them. As
our position was a good one, we determined to remain upon it, until we
should ascertain the number and disposition of the natives. We had not
been long stationary, when we heard a crackling noise in the distance,
and it soon became evident that the bush had been fired. It was,
however, impossible that we could receive any injury on the narrow
ridge upon which we stood, so that we waited very patiently to see the
end of this affair.
REMARKS ON THE NATIVES; DISEASE AMONG THEM.
In a short time the fire approached pretty near to us, and dense
columns of smoke rose into the air over our heads. One of the natives,
who had been on the bank, now came out of the bush, exactly from the
spot into which he had retreated. He advanced a few paces towards us,
and bending his body so that his hands rested on his knees, he fixed
his gaze upon us for some time; but, seeing that we remained immovable,
he began to throw himself into the most extravagant attitudes, shaking
his foot from time to time. When he found that all his violence had no
effect, he turned his rear to us in a most laughable manner, and
absolutely groaned in spirit when he found that this last insult failed
of success.
He stood perplexed and not knowing what next to do, which gave Mr. Hume
an opportunity to call out to him, and with considerable address he at
length got the savage to approach close up to him; Mr. Hume himself
having advanced a short distance from the animals in the first
instance. As soon as I thought the savage had sufficiently recovered
from his alarm, I went up to him with a tomahawk, the use of which he
immediately guessed. We now observed that the natives who had fled from
the river, had been employed in setting a net. They had placed it in a
semicircle, with either end to the shore, and rude pieces of wood were
attached to it to keep the upper part perpendicular. It was in fact a
sein, only that the materials, with the exception of the net-work, were
simpler and rougher than cork or lead--for which last, we afterwards
discovered stones had been substituted.
We had on this occasion a remarkable instance of the docility of the
natives of the interior, or of the power they have of subduing their
apprehensions; manifesting the opposite extremes of fear and
confidence. These men whom we had thus surprised, and who, no doubt,
imagined that we were about to destroy them, having apparently never
seen nor heard of white men before, must have taken us for something
preternatural; yet from the extremity of fear that had prompted them to
set their woods in flames, they in a brief space so completely subdued
those fears as to approach the very beings who had so strongly excited
their alarm. The savage who had been the principal actor in the scene,
was an elderly man, rather descending to the vale of years than what
might be strictly called aged. I know not how it was, but I regarded
him with peculiar interest. Mr. Hume's manners had in a great measure
contributed to allay his evident agitation; but, from the moment I
approached him, I thought there was a shade of anxiety upon his brow,
and an expression of sorrow over his features, the cause of which did
not originate with us. I could see in a moment, that his bosom was full
even to bursting, and he seemed to claim at once our sympathy and our
protection, although we were ignorant of that which oppressed him. We
had not long been seated together, when some of his tribe mustered
sufficient courage to join him. Both Mr. Hume and I were desirous of
seeing the net drawn, but the old man raised some objection, by
pointing to the heavens and towards the sun. After a little more
solicitation, however, he gave a whistle, and, four or five natives
having obeyed the summons, he directed them to draw the net, but they
were unfortunate, and our wish to ascertain the kind of fish contained
in the river was disappointed. As his tribe gathered round him, the old
chief threw a melancholy glance upon them, and endeavoured, as much as
he could, to explain the cause of that affliction which, as I had
rightly judged, weighed heavily upon him. It appeared, then, that a
violent cutaneous disease raged throughout the tribe, that was sweeping
them off in great numbers. He called several young men to Mr. Hume and
myself, who had been attacked by this singular malady. Nothing could
exceed the anxiety of his explanations, or the mild and soothing tone
in which he addressed his people, and it really pained me that I could
not assist him in his distress. We now discovered the use to which the
conical substance that had been deposited with such unusual care in one
of the huts, was applied. There were few of the natives present who
were not more or less marked with it, and it was no doubt, indicative
of mourning.
DEPARTURE OF THE NATIVES.
Some of the men, however, were painted with red and yellow ochre, with
which it was evident to me they had besmeared themselves since our
appearance, most likely in preparing for the combat in which they
fancied they would be engaged. We distributed such presents as we had
to those around us, and when we pursued our journey, the majority
accompanied us, nor did they wholly leave us until we had passed the
place to which their women had retired. They might have left us when
they pleased, for we intended them no harm; as it was, however, they
struck into the brushes to join their families, and we pushed on to
make up for lost time.
The travelling near the river had been so bad, not only in consequence
of the nature of the soil and brush, but from the numerous gullies that
had been formed by torrents, as they poured into its channel after
heavy rains and floods, that it was thought advisable to keep at a
greater distance from it. We turned away, therefore, to the plains, and
found them of much firmer surface. They partook, however, of the same
general character as the plains we had traversed more to the eastward.
Their soil was a light sandy loam, and the same succulent plants still
continued to prevail upon them, which we have already noticed as
existing upon the other plains. Both emus and kangaroos were seen,
though not in any considerable numbers, but our dogs were not in a
condition to run, and were all but killed by the extreme heat of the
weather. We had fallen on a small pool of water shortly after we
started in the morning, but we could do no more than refresh ourselves
and the animals at it. In the afternoon, we again turned towards the
river, and found it unaltered. Its water was still salt, and from the
increased number of wild fowl and pelicans upon it, as well as from the
general flatness of the country, I certainly thought we were rapidly
approaching some inland sea. It was, however, uncertain how long we
should be enabled to continue on the river. The animals were all of
them extremely weak, and every day increased the probable difficulty of
our return. There was not the least appearance of a break-up of the
drought, the heavens were without a cloud, and the atmosphere was so
clear that the outline of the moon could be distinctly seen, although
she was far in her wane.
BRINE SPRINGS IN THE RIVER.
On the 6th, we journeyed again through a barren scrub, although on
firmer ground, and passed numerous groups of huts. At about eight miles
from our last encampment, we came upon the river, where its banks were
of considerable height. In riding along them, Mr. Hume thought he
observed a current running, and he called to inform me of the
circumstance. On a closer examination, we discovered some springs in
the very bed of the river, from which a considerable stream was
gushing, and from the incrustation around them, we had no difficulty in
guessing at their nature: in fact, they were brine springs, and I
collected a quantity of salt from the brink of them.
DISTRESS FOR WANT OF FRESH WATER.
After such a discovery, we could not hope to keep our position. No
doubt the current we had observed on first reaching the river, was
caused by springs that had either escaped our notice or were under
water. Here was at length a local cause for its saltness that destroyed
at once the anticipation and hope of our being near its termination,
and, consequently, the ardour with which we should have pressed on to
decide so interesting a point.
Our retreat would have been a measure of absolute necessity ere this,
had we not found occasional supplies of fresh water, the last pond of
which was now about eighteen miles behind us.
OUR COURSE ARRESTED.
Whether we should again find any, was a doubtful question, and I
hesitated to run the risk. The animals were already, from bad food, and
from the effects of the river water, so weak, that they could scarcely
carry their loads, and I was aware, if any of the bullocks once fell,
he would never rise again. Under such circumstances, I thought it
better to halt the party at the edge of the scrub, though the feed was
poor, and the water not drinkable. Our situation required most serious
consideration. It was necessary that we should move either backward or
forward in the morning. Yet we could not adopt either measure with
satisfaction to ourselves, under such unfavorable circumstances. I
determined to relieve my own mind by getting the animals into a place
of safety, as soon as possible; and, as the only effectual way of doing
this was to retire upon the nearest fresh water, I resolved at once to
do so. The party turned back on the morning of the 6th; nor do I think
the cattle would ever have reached their destination had we not found a
few buckets of rain water in the cleft of a rock, to refresh them. Thus
it will appear that under our most trying circumstances, we received
aid from Providence, and that the bounty of Heaven was extended towards
us, when we had least reason to expect it.
Notwithstanding we had been thus forced to a partial retreat, both Mr.
Hume and myself were unwilling to quit the pursuit of the river, in so
unsatisfactory a manner. There was no difference in the appearance of
the country to the westward of it; but a seeming interminable flat
stretched away in that direction. A journey across it was not likely,
therefore, to be attended with any favorable results, since it was
improbable that any other leading feature was within our reach. I
proposed, therefore, to take the most serviceable of the horses with me
down the river, that, in the event of our finding fresh water, we might
again push forward. Mr. Hume requesting to be permitted to accompany
me, it was arranged that we should start on the 8th, thereby giving the
animals a day's rest. We had not seen any natives since our parting
with the chief horde; and as we were stationed at some little distance
from the river, I hoped that they would not visit the camp during my
absence. This was the only circumstance that gave me uneasiness, but
the men had generally been behaving so well that I relied a great deal
upon them.
EXTRAORDINARY SOUND.
About 3 p.m. on the 7th, Mr. Hume and I were occupied tracing the chart
upon the ground. The day had been remarkably fine, not a cloud was
there in the heavens, nor a breath of air to be felt. On a sudden we
heard what seemed to be the report of a gun fired at the distance of
between five and six miles. It was not the hollow sound of an earthly
explosion, or the sharp cracking noise of falling timber, but in every
way resembled a discharge of a heavy piece of ordnance. On this all
were agreed, but no one was certain whence the sound proceeded. Both
Mr. Hume and myself had been too attentive to our occupation to form a
satisfactory opinion; but we both thought it came from the N.W. I sent
one of the men immediately up a tree, but he could observe nothing
unusual. The country around him appeared to be equally flat on all
sides, and to be thickly wooded: whatever occasioned the report, it
made a strong impression on all of us; and to this day, the singularity
of such a sound, in such a situation, is a matter of mystery to me.
FURTHER ATTEMPT TO EXPLORE THE RIVER.
On the 8th, we commenced our journey down the river, accompanied by two
men, and a pack-horse, carrying our provisions on one side and a bucket
of water on the other. Keeping in general near the stream, but making
occasional turns into the plains, we got to the brush from which the
party had turned back, about 3 p.m. Passing through, we crossed a small
plain, of better soil and vegetation than usual; but it soon gave place
to the sandy loam of the interior; nor did we observe any material
alteration, either in the country or the river, as we rode along. The
flooded-gum trees on the banks of the latter, were of beautiful growth,
but in the brushes dividing the plains, box and other eucalypti, with
cypresses and many minor shrubs, prevailed. We slept on the river side,
and calculated our distance from the camp at about twenty-six or
twenty-eight miles.
The horses would not drink the river water, so that we were obliged to
give them a pint each from our own supply. On the following morning we
continued our journey. The country was generally open to the eastward,
and we had fine views of D'Urban's Group, distant from twenty to
twenty-five miles. About noon, turning towards the river to rest, both
ourselves and the horses, we passed through brush land for about a mile
and a half. When we came upon its banks, we found them composed of a
red loam with sandy superficies. We had, in the course of the day,
crossed several creeks, but in none of them could we find water,
although their channels were of great depth.
The day had been extremely warm, and from shaking in the barrel our
supply of water had diminished to a little more than a pint; it
consequently became a matter of serious consideration, how far it would
be prudent to proceed farther; for, however capable we were of bearing
additional fatigue, it was evident our animals would soon fail, since
they trembled exceedingly, and had the look of total exhaustion. We
calculated that we were forty miles from the camp, in a S.W. direction,
a fearful distance under our circumstances, since we could not hope to
obtain relief for two days. Independently however, of the state of the
animals, our spirits were damped by the nature of the country, and the
change which had taken place on the soil, upon which it was impossible
that water could rest; while the general appearance of the interior
showed how much it had suffered from drought. On the other hand,
although the waters of the river had become worse to the taste, the
river itself had increased in size, and stretched away to the westward,
with all the uniformity of a magnificent canal, and gave every promise
of increasing importance; while the pelicans were in such numbers upon
it as to be quite dazzling to the eye. Considering, however, that
perseverance would only involve us in inextricable difficulties, and
that it would also be useless to risk the horses, since we had gained a
distance to which the bullocks could not have been brought, I intimated
my intention of giving up the further pursuit of the river, though it
was with extreme reluctance that I did so.
CALLED IT THE "DARLING".
As soon as we had bathed and finished our scanty meal, I took the
bearings of D'Urban's Group, and found them to be S. 58 E. about
thirty-three miles distant; and as we mounted our horses, I named the
river the "Darling," as a lasting memorial of the respect I bear the
governor.
ABANDON THE ATTEMPT.
I should be doing injustice to Mr. Hume and my men, if I did not
express my conviction that they were extremely unwilling to yield to
circumstances, and that, had I determined on continuing the journey,
they would have followed me with cheerfulness, whatever the
consequences might have been.
CHAPTER III.
Intercourse with the natives--Their appearance and condition--Remarks
on the Salt or Darling River--Appearance of the marshes on our
return--Alarm for safety of the provision party--Return to Mount
Harris--Miserable condition of the natives--Circumstances attending the
slaughter of two Irish runaways--Bend our course towards the
Castlereagh--Wallis's Ponds--Find the famished natives feeding on
gum--Channel of the Castlereagh--Character of the country in its
vicinity--Another tribe of natives--Amicable intercourse with
them--Morrisset's chain of Ponds--Again reach the Darling River ninety
miles higher up than where we first struck upon it.
We kept near the river as we journeyed homewards, and in striking
across a plain, found an isolated rock of quartz and jasper, just
showing itself partially above the surface of the ground.
We were anxious to get to the small plain I have mentioned, if
possible, for the sake of the animals, and pushed on rapidly for it.
About 4 p.m. we had reached our sleeping place of the previous evening,
and being overpowered by thirst, we stopped in hopes that by making our
tea strong we might destroy, in some measure, the nauseous taste of the
water. The horses were spancelled and a fire lit. Whilst we were
sitting patiently for the boiling of the tins, Mr. Hume observed at a
considerable distance above us, a large body of natives under some gum
trees. They were not near enough for us to observe them distinctly, but
it was evident that they were watching our motions. We did not take any
notice of them for some time, but at last I thought it better to call
out to them, and accordingly requested Mr. Hume to do so. In a moment
the whole of them ran forward and dashed into the river, having been on
the opposite side, with an uproar I had never witnessed on any former
occasion.
INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES.
Mr. Hume thought they intended an attack, and the horses had taken
fright and galloped away. I determined, therefore, to fire at once upon
them if they pressed up the bank on which we were posted. Mr. Hume went
with me to the crest of it, and we rather angrily beckoned to the
foremost of the natives to stop. They mistook our meaning, but laid all
their spears in a heap as they came up. We then sat down on the bank
and they immediately did the same; nor did they stir until we beckoned
to them after the horses had been secured.
As they conducted themselves so inoffensively, we gave them everything
we had to spare. My gun seemed to excite their curiosity, as they had
seen Mr. Hume shoot a cockatoo with it; they must consequently have
been close to us for the greater part of the day, as the bird was
killed in the morning. It was of a species new to me, being smaller
than the common white cockatoo, and having a large scarlet-and-yellow
instead of a pine-yellow top-knot.
Having stayed about half an hour with them, we remounted our horses,
and struck away from the river into the plains, while the natives went
up its banks to join their hordes. Those whom we saw were about
twenty-seven in number and the most of them were strangers.
DISTRESS FROM THIRST.
It was some time after sunset before we reached the little plain on
which we had arranged to sleep, and when we dismounted we were in a
truly pitiable state. I had been unable to refrain from drinking
copiously at the river, and now became extremely sick. Mr. Hume had
been scarcely more prudent than myself, but on him the water had a
contrary effect, as well as upon Hopkinson. The tinker was the only man
fit for duty, and it was well for us that such was the case, as the
horses made frequent attempts to stray, and would have left us in a
pretty plight had they succeeded. We reached the camp on the following
day a little before sunset, nor was I more rejoiced to dismount from my
wearied horse than to learn that everything in the camp had been
regular during our absence and that the men had kept on the best terms
with the natives who had paid them frequent visits.
The bullocks had improved, but were still extremely weak, and as the
horses we had employed on the last journey required a day or two's
rest, it was arranged that we should not break up our camp until the
12th, beyond which period we could not stop, in consequence of the low
state of our salt provisions, we having barely sufficient to last to
Mount Harris, at the rate of two pounds per week.
REMARKS ON THE NATIVES.
The morning after we returned from our excursion, a large party of
natives, about seventy in number, visited the camp. On this occasion,
the women and children passed behind the tents, but did not venture to
stop. Most of the men had spears, and were unusually inquisitive and
forward. Several of them carried fire-sticks under the influence of the
disease I have already noticed, whilst others were remarked to have
violent cutaneous eruptions all over the body. We were pretty well on
the alert; notwithstanding which, every minor article was seized with a
quickness that would have done credit to a most finished juggler. One
of the natives thus picked up my comb and toothbrush, but as he did not
attempt to conceal them, they were fortunately recovered. After staying
with us a short time the men followed the women. They appeared to be
strangers who had come from a distance.
CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES.
The natives of the Darling are a clean-limbed, well-conditioned race,
generally speaking. They seemingly occupy permanent huts, but their
tribe did not bear any proportion to the size or number of their
habitations. It was evident their population had been thinned. The
customs of these distant tribes, as far as we could judge, were similar
to those of the mountain blacks, and they are essentially the same
people, although their language differs. They lacerate their bodies,
but do not extract the front teeth. We saw but few cloaks among them,
since the opossum does not inhabit the interior. Those that were
noticed, were made of the red kangaroo skin. In appearance, these men
are stouter in the bust than at the lower extremities; they have broad
noses, sunken eyes, overhanging eyebrows, and thick lips. The men are
much better looking than the women. Both go perfectly naked, if I
except the former, who wear nets over the loins and across the
forehead, and bones through the cartilages of the nose. Their chief
food is fish, of which they have great supplies in the river; still
they have their seasons for hunting their emus and kangaroos. The nets
they use for this purpose, as well as for fishing, are of great length,
and are made upon large frames. These people do not appear to have
warlike habits nor do they take any pride in their arms, which differ
little from those used by the inland tribes, and are assimilated to
them as far as the materials will allow. One powerful man, however, had
a regular trident, for which Mr. Hume offered many things without
success. He plainly intimated to us that he had a use for it, but
whether against an enemy or to secure prey, we could not understand. I
was most anxious to have ascertained if any religious ceremonies
obtained among them, but the difficulty of making them comprehend our
meaning was insurmountable; and to the same cause may be attributed the
circumstance of my being unable to collect any satisfactory vocabulary
of their language. They evinced a strange perversity, or obstinacy
rather, in repeating words, although it was evident that they knew they
were meant as questions. The pole we observed in the creek, on the
evening previously to our making the Darling, was not the only one that
fell under our notice; our impression therefore, that they were fixed
by the natives to propitiate some deity, was confirmed. It would appear
that the white pigment was an indication of mourning. Whether these
people have an idea of a superintending Providence I doubt, but they
evidently dread evil agency. On the whole I should say they are a
people, at present, at the very bottom of the scale of humanity.
REMARKS ON THE DARLING RIVER.
We struck the Darling River in lat. 29 degrees 37 minutes S. and in E.
long. 145 degrees 33 minutes, and traced it down for about sixty-six
miles in a direct line to the S.W. If I might hazard an opinion from
appearance, to whatever part of the interior it leads, its source must
be far to the N.E. or N. The capacity of its channel, and the terrific
floods that must sometimes rage in it, would argue that it is
influenced by tropical rains, which alone would cause such floods. It
is likely that it seldom arrives at so reduced a state as that in which
we found it, and that, generally speaking, it has a sufficient depth of
water for the purposes of inland navigation: in such case its future
importance cannot be questioned, since it most probably receives the
chief streams falling westerly from the coast ranges. But, with every
anticipation of the benefit that may at some time or other be derived
from this remarkable and central stream, it is incumbent on me to state
that the country, through which it flows, holds out but little prospect
of advantage. Certainly the portion we know of it, is far from
encouraging. The extent of alluvial soil, between the inner and outer
banks of the river, is extremely limited, and, instead of being covered
with sward, is in most places over-run by the polygonum. Beyond this
the plains of the interior stretch away, whose character and soil must
change, ere they can be available to any good purpose. But there is a
singular want of vegetable decay in the interior of New Holland, and
that powerfully argues its recent origin.
REMARKS ON THE COUNTRY.
There is no life upon its surface, if I may so express myself; but the
stillness of death reigns in its brushes, and over its plains. It
cannot, however, be doubted that we visited the interior during a most
unfavorable season. Probably in ordinary ones it wears a different
appearance, but its deserts are of great extent, and its productions
are of little value.
Agreeably to our arrangements, we broke up our camp at an early hour on
the morning of the 12th, and proceeded up the river to the junction of
New Year's Creek. We then struck away in an easterly direction from it,
detaching a man to trace the creek up, lest we should pass any water;
and we should certainly have been without it had we not taken this
precaution.
On the following day, we again passed to the eastward, through an open
country, having picturesque views of Oxley's Table Land. We crossed our
track about noon, and struck on the creek at about five miles beyond
it, and we were fortunate enough to procure both water and grass. The
timber upon the plains, between us and the Darling, we found to be a
rough gum, but box prevailed in the neighbourhood of the creek at this
part of it.
On the 14th, we changed our direction more to the southward, but made a
short journey, in consequence of being obliged to make some slight
repairs on the boat carriage.
REGAIN OUR OLD ROUTE.
On the 15th, we kept an E.S.E. course, and, crossing the creek at an
early hour, got upon our old track, which we kept. We had the lateral
ridge of the Pink Hills upon our right, and travelled through a good
deal of brush. Four or five natives joined us, and two followed us to
the end of our day's journey. In the course of the evening, they
endeavoured to pilfer whatever was in their reach, but were detected
putting a tin into a bush, and soon took to their heels. This was the
first instance we had of open theft among the natives of the interior.
We passed Mosquito Brush on the 18th, but found the ponds quite dry, we
were, therefore, under the necessity of pushing on, to shorten the next
day's journey, as we could not expect to get water nearer than the
marshes. At noon, on the 19th, we entered the plain, and once more saw
them spreading in dreariness before us. While the party was crossing to
the first channel, I rode to the left, in order to examine the
appearance of the country in the direction of the wood, and as far as I
skirted the reeds had my impressions confirmed as to their partial
extension. I was obliged, however, to join the men without completing
the circuit of the marshes. They had found the first channel dry, and
had passed on to the other, in which, fortunately, a small quantity of
water still remained. It was, however, so shallow as to expose the
backs of the fish in it, and a number of crows had congregated, and
were pecking at them. Wishing to satisfy my mind as to the distance to
which the river extended to the northward, Mr. Hume rode with me on the
following day, to examine the country in that direction, leaving the
men stationary. We found that the reeds gradually decreased in body,
until, at length, they ceased, or gave place to bulrushes. There were
general appearances of inundation, and of the subsidence of waters, but
none that led us to suppose that any channel existed beyond the flooded
lands.
ALARM FOR THE SAFETY OF THE PROVISION PARTY.
On our return to the camp, we observed dense masses of smoke rising at
the head of the marshes, and immediately under Mount Foster. This
excited our alarm for the safety of the party we hoped to find at Mount
Harris, and obliged us to make forced marches, to relieve it if
threatened by the natives.
On the 22nd, we crossed the plains of the Macquarie, and surprised a
numerous tribe on the banks of the river; and the difficulty we found
in getting any of them to approach us, their evident timidity, and the
circumstance of one of them having on a jacket, tended to increase our
apprehensions. When two or three came to us, they intimated that white
men either had been or were under Mount Harris, but we were left in
uncertainty and passed a most anxious night.
The body of reeds was still on fire; and the light embers were carried
to an amazing distance by the wind, falling like a black-shower around
us. As we knew that the natives never made such extensive
conflagration, unless they had some mischievous object in view, our
apprehension for the safety of Riley, with his supplies, was increased.
At the earliest dawn, we pushed for the hill. In passing that part of
the meadows under Mount Foster, we observed that the grass had also
been consumed, and we scarcely recognized the ground from its altered
appearance. As we approached Mount Harris, we saw recent traces of
cattle, but none were visible on the plains. Under the hill, however,
we could distinctly see that a hut of some kind had been erected, and
it is impossible for me to describe the relief we felt when a soldier
came forward to reconnoitre us. I could no longer doubt the safety of
the party, and this was confirmed by the rest of the men turning out to
welcome us. It appeared that our suspicions with regard to the natives
had not been without foundation, since they attempted to surprise the
camp, and it was supposed the firing of the marshes was done with a
view to collect the distant tribes, to make a second attack; so that
our arrival was most opportune.
The party I found awaiting our arrival at Mount Harris consisted of one
soldier, Riley, who had the charge of the supplies, and a drayman. They
had found the paper I had fixed against the tree, and also the letters
I had hid, and had forwarded them to Sydney, by another soldier and a
prisoner; which had weakened their party a good deal. Riley informed
me, that he had been between a month and three weeks at the station,
and that knowing our provisions must have run short he had expected us
much earlier than we had made our appearance.
My dispatches stated, that additional supplies had been forwarded for
my use, together with horses and bullocks, in the event of my requiring
them. On examination, the former were found to be in excellent order;
and, as it would take some time to carry any changes I might
contemplate, or find it necessary to make, into effect, I determined to
give the men who had been with me a week's rest.
ENCAMP AT MOUNT HARRIS.
The camp was made snug; and as the weather had become much cooler I
thought it a good opportunity to slaughter one of the bullocks, in
order to guard against any bad effects of our having been living for
some weeks exclusively on salt provisions. I was also induced to this
measure, from a wish to preserve my supplies as much as possible.
These matters having been arranged, I had a temporary awning erected
near the river, and was for three or four days busily employed writing
an account of our journey for the Governor's information.
Having closed my despatches, and answered the numerous friendly letters
I had received, my attention was next turned to the changes that had
taken place at Mount Harris during our absence. The Macquarie, I found,
had wholly ceased to flow, and now consisted of a chain of ponds. Such
of the minor vegetation as had escaped the fires of the natives, had
perished under the extreme heat of the season. The acacia pendula stood
leafless upon the plains, and the polygonum junceum appeared to be the
only plant that had withstood the effects of the drought. Yet,
notwithstanding this general depression of the vegetable kingdom, the
animals that had been brought from Wellington Valley were in the best
condition, and were, indeed, too fat for effective labour; it might,
therefore, be reasonably presumed, that herbage affording such
nourishment in so unfavourable a season, would be of the richest
quality, if fresh and vigorous under the influence of seasonable, and
not excessive, rains.
FIRING OF THE GREAT MARSHES.
The appearance of the country was, however, truly melancholy; there was
not a flower in bloom, nor a green object to be seen. Whether our
arrival had increased their alarm, is uncertain, but the natives
continued to fire the great marshes, and as the element raged amongst
them, large bodies of smoke rose over the horizon like storm clouds,
and had the effect of giving additional dreariness to the scene. I am
inclined to think that they made these conflagrations to procure food,
by seizing whatsoever might issue from the flames, as snakes, birds, or
other animals; for they had taken every fish in the river, and the low
state of its waters had enabled them to procure an abundance of muscles
from its bed, which they had consumed with their characteristic
improvidence. They were, consequently, in a starving condition, and so
pitiable were their indications of it, that I was induced to feed such
of them as visited the camp, notwithstanding their late misconduct;
being likewise anxious to bring about a good understanding, as the best
means of ensuring the safety of the smaller party when we should
separate, of which I had reason to be doubtful. These people had killed
two white men not long before my arrival among them, and as the
circumstances attending the slaughter are singular, I shall relate them.
SLAUGHTER OF TWO IRISH RUNAWAYS.
The parties were two Irish runaways, who thought they could make their
way to Timor. They escaped from Wellington Valley with a fortnight's
provision each, and a couple of dogs, and proceeded down the Macquarie.
About the cataract, they fell in with the Mount Harris tribe, and
remained with them for some days, when they determined on pursuing
their journey. The blacks, however, wanted to get possession of their
dogs, and a resistance on the part of the Europeans brought on a
quarrel. It appears, that before the blacks proceeded to extremities,
they furnished the Irishmen, who were unarmed, with weapons, and then
told them to defend themselves, but whether against equal or inferior
numbers, I am uninformed. One of them soon fell, which the other
observing, he took his knife out, and cut the throats of both the dogs
before the blacks had time to put him to death. He was, however,
sacrificed; and both the men were eaten by the tribe generally. I
questioned several on the subject, but they preserved the most sullen
silence, neither acknowledging nor denying the fact.
ARBUTHNOT'S RANGE.
Mr. Hume had been one day on Mount Harris, and while there, had laid
his compass on a large rock, near to which Mr. Oxley's boat had been
burnt. To his surprise, he found the needle affected; and his bearings
were all wrong. I subsequently went up to ascertain the extent of the
error produced, and found it precisely the same as Mr. Hume noticed.
When I placed the compass on the rock, Mount Foster bore from me N. by
W., the true bearing of the one hill from the other being N.N.W. My
placing my notebook under the compass did not alter the effect, nor did
the card move until I raised the instrument a couple of feet above the
stone, when it first became violently agitated, and then settled
correctly; and my bearings of the highest parts of Arbuthnot's Range,
and of its centre, were as follows:
Mount Exmouth to the N ...... N. 86 E.
Centre....................... N. 85 E.
Vernon's Peak................ N. 89 E.
Distance 70 miles.
Having finished my reports and letters, it became necessary to consider
the best point on which to move, and to fix a day for our departure
from Mount Harris. It struck me that having found so important a
feature as the Darling River, the Governor would approve my
endeavouring to regain it more to the southward, in order to trace it
down. I, therefore, detached Mr. Hume to survey the country in that
direction, and to ascertain if a descent upon the Bogen district would
be practicable, through which I had been informed a considerable river
forced itself. The report he made on his return was such as to deter me
from that attempt, but he stated that the country for 30 miles from the
Macquarie was well watered, and superior to any he had passed over
during the journey; beyond that distance, it took up the character of
the remote interior, and alternated with plains and brush, the soil
being too sandy to retain water on its surface. He saw some hills from
the extremity of his journey, bearing by compass W.S.W. We consequently
determined to make for the Castlereagh, agreeably to our instructions.
Preparations were made for breaking up the camp, all the various
arrangements in the change of animals were completed, the boat carriage
was exchanged for a dray, and I took Boyle in the place of Norman,
whose timidity in the bush rendered him unfit for service.
CIRCUIT OF THE GREAT MARSHES.
There is a small hill on the opposite side of the river, and
immediately facing Mount Harris, and to the S.E. of it there is a small
lagoon, the head of a creek, by means of which its superfluous waters
are carried off. This creek runs parallel to the river for about ten
miles, and enters the marshes at the S.E. angle. This I ascertained one
day in riding to carry on my survey of the southern extremity of the
marshes, and to join my line of route by making the circuit of that
part of them. I found that the river was turned to its northerly course
by a rising ground of forest land, which checks its further progress
westerly. I proceeded round the S.W. angle, and then, taking a
northerly course, got down to the bottom of the first great marsh, thus
completing the circuit of them. I did not return to the camp until
after 10 p.m., having crossed the river at day-light, nor did we
procure any water from the time we left the stream to the moment of our
recrossing it.
WALLIS'S PONDS.
Having completed our various arrangements, and closed our letters, we
struck our tents on the morning of the 7th March; we remained, however,
to witness the departure of Riley's party for Wellington Valley, and
then left the Macquarie on an E.N.E. course for Wallis's Ponds, and
made them at about 14 miles. They undoubtedly empty themselves into the
marshes, and are a continuation of that chain of ponds on which I left
the party in Mr. Hume's charge. About a mile from Mount Harris, we
passed a small dry creek, that evidently lays the country under water
in the wet seasons. There was a blue-gum flat to the eastward of it,
which we crossed, and then entered a brush of acacia pendula and box.
The soil upon the plain was an alluvial deposit; that in the brushes
was sandy. From the extremity of the plain, Mount Harris bore, by
compass, S.W. by W.; Mount Foster due west. The scrub through which we
were penetrating, at length became so dense, that we found it
impossible to travel in a direct line through it, and frequent ridges
of cypresses growing closely together, turned us repeatedly from our
course. The country at length became clearer, and we travelled over
open forest of box, casuarina, and cypresses, on a sandy soil; the
first predominating. For about two miles before we made the creek, the
country was not heavily timbered, the acacia pendula succeeding the
larger trees. The ground had a good covering of grass upon it, and
there were few of the salsolaceous plants, so abundant on the western
plains, to be found. The rough-gum abounded near the creek, with a
small tree bearing a hard round nut, and we had the luxury of plenty of
water.
We remained stationary on the 8th, in hopes that Riley would have met
the soldier who had been sent back to Wellington Valley, and that he
would have forwarded any letters to us, of which he might have been the
bearer. The day, however, passed over without realizing our
expectations; and we started once more for the interior, and cut
ourselves off from all communication with society.
MORRISSET'S PONDS.
We made for Morrisset's chain of ponds, and travelled over rich and
extensive plains, divided by plantations of cypress, box, and
casuarina, in the early and latter period of the day. About noon we
entered a dense forest of cypresses, which continued for three miles,
when the cypresses became mixed with casuarina, box, and mountain-gum,
a tree we had not remarked before in so low a situation. We struck upon
the creek after a journey of about 15 miles. It had a sandy bed, and
was extremely tortuous in its course, nor was it until after a
considerable search, that we at length succeeded in finding water, at
which a party of natives were encamped. The moment they saw us, they
fled, and left all their utensils, &c. behind them. Among other things,
we found a number of bark troughs, filled with the gum of the mimosa,
and vast quantities of gum made into cakes upon the ground. From this
it would appear these unfortunate creatures were reduced to the last
extremity, and, being unable to procure any other nourishment, had been
obliged to collect this mucilaginous food.
The plains we traversed, were of uniform equality of surface. Water
evidently lodges and continues on them long after a fall of rain, and
in wet seasons they must, I should imagine, be full of quagmires, and
almost impassable.
On the 10th, we passed through a country that differed in no material
point from that already described. We stopped at 10 a.m. under some
brush, in the centre of a large plain, from which Arbuthnot's range
bore S. 84 E. distant from 50 to 55 miles, and afterwards traversed or
rather crossed, those extensive tracts described by Mr. Evans as being
under water and covered with reeds, in 1817. They now bore a very
different appearance, being firm and dry. The soil was in general good,
and covered with forest grass and a species of oxalia. We did not
observe any reeds, or the signs of inundation, but, as is invariably
the case with plains in the interior, they were of too even surface, as
I have so lately remarked, to admit of the waters running quickly off
them; and no doubt, when they became saturated, many quagmires are
formed, that would very much impede the movements of an expedition.
REACH THE CASTLEREAGH RIVER.
We reached the Castlereagh about 4 p.m., and although its channel could
not have been less than 130 yards in breadth, there was apparently not
a drop of water in it. Its bed consisted of pure sand and reeds; amid
the latter, we found a small pond of 15 yards circumference, after a
long search. There is a considerable dip in the country towards the
river, at about two miles from it; and the intervening brush was full
of kangaroo, which, I fancy, had congregated to a spot where there was
abundance of food for them. The soil covering the space was of the
richest quality, and the timber upon it consisted of box, mountain gum,
and the angophora lanceolata, a tree that is never found except on rich
ground.
WANT OF WATER; CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.
It appeared that our troubles were to recommence, and that in order to
continue on the Castlereagh, it would be necessary for Mr. Hume and
myself to undertake those fatiguing journeys in search of water that
had so exhausted us already: and after all, it was doubtful how soon we
might be forced back. I had certainly expected that, on our gaining the
banks of the river, we should have had a constant supply of water, but
the circumstance of the Castlereagh having not only ceased to flow, but
being absolutely dry, while it afforded the best and clearest proof of
the severity and continuance of the drought in the interior, at the
same time damped the spirits and ardour of the men. We kept the left
bank of the river as we proceeded down it, and passed two or three
larger ponds about a mile below where we had slept, but there they
ceased. The bed of the river became one of pure sand, nor did there
appear to be any chance of our finding any water in it. I stopped the
party at about eight miles, and desired the men to get their dinners,
to give Mr. Hume and myself time to search for a supply upon the
plains. Disappointed to the left, we crossed the channel of the
Castlereagh, and struck over a small plain upon the right bank, and at
the extremity of it, came upon a swamp, from which we immediately
returned for the cattle, and got them unloaded by seven o'clock. As
there was sufficient pasture around us, I proposed to Mr. Hume on the
following day, to leave the party stationary, and to ride down the
river to see how far its present appearances continued. Like the
generality of rivers of the interior, it had, where we struck upon it,
outer banks to confine its waters during floods, and to prevent them
from spreading generally over the country; the space between the two
banks being of the richest soil, and the timber chiefly of the
angophora kind. Flooded-gum overhung the inner banks of the river, or
grew upon the many islands, with casuarina. It became evident, however,
that the outer banks declined in height as we proceeded down the river,
nor was it long before they ceased altogether. As we rode along, we
found that the inner ones were fast decreasing in height also. Riding
under a hanging wood of the angophora, which had ceased for a time, we
were induced to break off to our right, to examine some large
flooded-gum trees about a couple of miles to the N.W. of us. On
arriving near them, we were astonished to find that they concealed a
serpentine lagoon that had a belt of reeds round it. Keeping this
lagoon upon our right, we at length came to the head of it, past which
the river sweeps. Crossing the channel of the river, we continued to
ride in an easterly direction to examine the country. In doing this,
we struck on a second branch of the Castlereagh, leading W. by N. into
a plain, which it of course inundates at times, and running up it, we
found its bed at the point of separation, to be considerably higher
than that of the main channel, which still continued of pure sand--and
was stamped all over with the prints of the feet of natives, kangaroos,
emus, and wild dogs, We then turned again to the head of the lagoon,
and took the following bearings of Arbuthnot's range:
Mount Exmouth .......... E. 90 S.
Centre Range ........... E. 35 E.
Vernon's Peak .......... E. 20 S.
From the head of the lagoon, the river appeared to enter a reedy
hollow, shaded by a long line of flooded gum trees, and on proceeding
to it, we found the banks ceased here altogether; and that a very
considerable plain extended both to the right and the left, which
cannot fail of being frequently laid under water.
LAGOONS AND CREEKS OF THE CASTLEREAGH.
On the following morning we moved the party to the lagoon, and, passing
its head, encamped to the north of it; after which we again rode down
the river in search of water. It continued to hold a straight and
northerly course for about five miles, having a plain on either side.
The reeds that had previously covered the channel then suddenly ceased,
and the channel, contracting in breadth, gained in depth: it became
extremely serpentine, and at length lost all the character and
appearance of a river. It had many back channels, as large as the main
one, serving to overflow the neighbouring country. We succeeded in
finding a small pond of water in one of the former, hardly large enough
to supply our necessities, but as it enabled us to push so much further
on, we turned towards the lagoon, making a circuitous journey to the
right, across a large plain, bounded to the north by low acacia brush
and box. We struck upon a creek at the further extremity of the plain,
in which there was a tolerably sized pond. It appeared from the traces
of men, that some natives had been there the day before; but we did not
see any of them. The water was extremely muddy and unfit for use. The
lagoon at which we had encamped, was of less importance than we had
imagined.
JOURNEY DOWN THE RIVER.
Whilst Mr. Hume led the party down the river, I rode up its northward
bank, to examine it more closely. I found it to be a serpentine sheet
of about three miles in length, gradually decreasing in depth until it
separated into two small creeks. In following one of them up, I
observed that they re-united at the distance of about two miles, and
that the lagoon was filled from the eastward, and not by the river as I
had at first supposed. The waters at the head of the lagoon were
putrid, nor was there a fish in, or a wild fowl upon it. The only bird
we saw was a beautiful eagle, of the osprey kind, with plumage like a
sea gull, which had a nest in the tree over the tents.
In turning to overtake the party I rode through a great deal of acacia
scrub, and on arriving at the place at which I expected to have
overtaken them, I found they had pushed on.
The Castlereagh, as I rode down it, diminished in size considerably,
and became quite choked up with rushes and brambles. Rough-gum again
made its appearance, with swamp-oak and a miserable acacia scrub
outside. The country on both sides of the river seemed to be an
interminable flat, and the soil of an inferior description.
WRETCHED APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.
I came up with with Mr. Hume about 1 o'clock and we again pushed
forward at 3, and halted for the night without water, the want of which
the cattle did not feel. The river held a general westerly course, and
the country in its neighbourhood became extremely depressed and low. On
the following day we moved forward a distance of not more than nine
miles, through a country on which, at first, the acacia pendula alone
was growing on a light alluvial soil. The river had many back drains,
by means of which, in wet seasons, it inundates the adjacent plains. It
was evident, however, that they had not been flooded for many years;
and, notwithstanding that the country was low, the line of inundation
did not appear to be very extensive, nor were there any reeds growing
beyond the immediate banks of the river. Swamp-oak and rough-gum again
prevailed near the stream at our halting place, and the improvement
that had taken place, both in the country and in the Castlereagh, had
induced us to make so short a journey; for not only was there abundance
of the grass for the animals, but large ponds of water in the river.
Some natives had only just preceded us down it: we came upon their
fires that were still smoking; and upon them were the remains of some
fish they had taken, near which they had left a cumbrous spear. The
circumstances cheered us with hopes that an improvement would take
place in the country, and that some new feature would soon open upon
us. In the course of the following day, however, every favorable
change, both in the river and in the country, disappeared. The latter
continued extremely depressed, and in general open, or lightly covered
with acacia pendula; the former dwindled into a mere ditch, choked up
with brambles and reeds, and having only here and there a stagnant pool
of water. We travelled on a N.W. 1/2 W. course for about ten miles, and
again stopped for the night without water. In the course of the
afternoon, we traversed several flats, on which the rough-gum alone was
growing. These flats were evidently subject to flood; and contained an
alluvial soil.
They became more frequent as we travelled down the river, and the work
was so heavy for the animals, that I was obliged to keep wide of them,
in doing which we struck upon a creek of large size, coming from the
N.E. and, having crossed, we traversed its right bank to its junction
with the Castlereagh, and stopped close to it at a pond of water,
though the feed for the animals was bad. The country to the left of the
river, though somewhat high, was the same, in essential points, as that
to the right.
The Castlereagh seemed to have increased in size below the creek, but
still it had no resemblance to a river. We had not proceeded very far
down its banks, on the 18th, when we crossed a broad footpath leading
to it from the interior. I turned my horse to the left, and struck upon
a long sheet of water, from which I startled a number of pelicans. It
was evident that the natives had recently been in the neighbourhood,
but we thought it probable they might have been a hunting party, who
had returned again to the plains. The whole track we passed over during
the day was miserably poor and bare of vegetation, nor did the
appearance of the country to the N.E. indicate any improvement. We lost
the traces of the natives immediately after crossing their path or
beat, and again found the bed of the river dry, after we had passed the
sheet of water to which it led. The soil was so rotten and yielding,
that the team knocked up early; indeed, it was a matter of surprise to
me that they should not have failed before. The river made somewhat to
the westward with little promise of improvement. The wretched
appearance of the country as we penetrated into it, damped our spirits;
we pressed on, however, with difficulty, over ground that was totally
destitute of vegetation. Instead of lofty timber and a living stream,
we wandered along the banks of an insignificant watercourse, and under
trees of stunted size and scanty foliage. We stopped on the 20th at the
angle of a creek, in which there was some dry grass, in consequence of
the animals being almost in a starving state, but even here they had
but little to eat.
A violent thunder-storm passed over us in the afternoon, but it made no
change in the temperature of the air. The weather, although it had been
hot and sultry, had fallen far short of the intense heat we experienced
in crossing the marshes of the Macquarie, when it was such as to melt
the sugar in the canisters, and to destroy all our dogs; and our nights
were now become agreeably cool.
A PARTY OF NATIVES.
We still, however, continued to travel over a dead level, nor was a
height or break visible from the loftiest trees we ascended. A little
before we stopped at the creek, we surprised a party of natives; old
men, women, and children. They were preparing dinners of fish in much
larger quantities than they could have devoured--probably for a part of
the tribe that were absent; but the moment they saw us they fled, and
left every thing at our mercy. On examining the fish, we found them
totally different from any in the Macquarie, and took two of the most
perfect to preserve. In the afternoon one of the men came to inform me
that the tribe was coming down upon us.
Mr. Hume and I, therefore, went to meet them. They were at this time
about 150 yards from the tent, but seeing us advance, they stopped, and
forming two deep, they marched to and fro, to a war song I suppose,
crouching with their spears. We had not, however, any difficulty in
communicating with them, and I shall detail the manner in which this
was brought about, in hopes that it may help to guide others. When the
natives saw us advance, they stopped, and we did the same. Mr. Hume
then walked to a tree, and broke off a short branch. It is singular
that this should, even with these rude people, be a token of peace. As
soon as they saw the branch, the natives laid aside their spears, and
two of them advanced about twenty paces in front of the rest, who sat
down. Mr. Hume then went forward and sat down, when the two natives
again advanced and seated themselves close to him.
Now it is evident that a little insight into the customs of every
people is necessary to insure a kindly communication; this, joined with
patience and kindness, will seldom fail with the natives of the
interior. It is not to avoid alarming their natural timidity that a
gradual approach is so necessary. They preserve the same ceremony among
themselves. These men, who were eighteen in number, came with us to the
tents, and received such presents as we had for them. They conducted
themselves very quietly, and, after a short time, left us with every
token of friendship.
LARGE CREEK.
On the 21st we proceeded down the river on a N.N.W. course, and at
about five miles struck upon a very large creek, apparently coming from
the E.N.E.
Although the Castlereagh had increased in size, this creek was
infinitely larger; it was, however, perfectly dry. Lofty flooded-gum
trees were upon its banks, and it appeared so much superior to the
river that I was induced to halt the party at the junction, in order to
examine it more closely. Mr. Hume, therefore, rode with me up the right
bank. We had not proceeded very far, when some natives called out to us
from the opposite scrub. Thinking that they belonged to the tribe we
had left behind us, we pointed to the junction, and motioned them to go
there, but one of the party continued to follow and call to us for some
time. On our return to the men, we found that the natives had joined
them, and they now gave us to understand that we were going away from
water. This had indeed been apparent to us. The creek was perfectly
dry, as far as we traced it up; and seemed to have been totally
deserted by the natives.
We were about to proceed on our journey, when from twenty to thirty
natives approached us from down the river. We sent two of those who had
been with us to them, and the whole accompanied us for some miles,
talking incessantly to the men, but keeping at a very respectful
distance from the animals. We at length got opposite to their camp,
near which there was a very fine pool of water, and they were earnest
in persuading us to stop at it. We were, however, too anxious to get
forward to comply; under the improved appearance of the river since it
had received the creeks from the eastward, little anticipating what was
before us.
NATIVE ARMOURY.
The natives did not follow us beyond their own encampment. Within sight
of it, we came upon their armoury, if I may so term it. Numerous spears
were reared against the trees, and heaps of boomerangs were lying on
the ground. The spears were very heavy, and half barbed; and it is
singular that three of them were marked with a broad arrow. We saw the
natives watching us, fearful, I imagine, that we should help ourselves;
but I would not permit any of their weapons to be touched.
EXAMINATION OF CREEKS NEAR THE CASTLEREAGH.
Pursuing our journey, we reached another creek, at about five miles,
similar to the last in appearance and size, and we crossed it
repeatedly during the afternoon. We had been induced to keep along a
native path in the hope that it would have led us to the river by a
short cut; but it eventually led us to this creek, and away from the
Castlereagh; for, notwithstanding that we subsequently changed our
course to the S.W., we failed, as we supposed, again to strike upon the
latter, and were obliged to stop for the night on the banks of what
appeared to be a third large dry creek, which we intersected nearly at
right angles.
We travelled through a good deal of brush during the day, nor did the
country change from the miserable and barren character it had assumed
for the last thirty or forty miles. The Castlereagh had so frequently
changed, that both Mr. Hume and myself were puzzled as to the identity
of the creek upon which we had halted. We searched its bed in vain for
water, although it was most capacious. Under an impression that the
river was still to the south, and that we were at a point to which many
watercourses from the high lands tended, I crossed the creek early in
the morning, and held a S.W. course, over an open forest country. At
about eight miles, we came upon a large space over-run by the polygonum
junceum, a certain indication of flooded ground, and of our consequent
proximity to some stream. Accordingly, after pushing through it, we
struck upon a small creek with abundance of water in it. Whether this
creek was the Castlereagh, which it resembled much more than the one we
had left in the morning, was doubtful; but it was a great source of
comfort to us to have so unexpected a supply of water as that which was
now at our disposal. Whatever channel this was, whether a river or a
creek, our tracing it down would lead us in the direction we wished to
go, and probably to some junction.
The neighbourhood of the creek was well clothed with vegetation, and
the cattle found good feed; but the only trees near it were rough-gum
and casuarinae; the flooded-gum had again disappeared. The soil of the
forest land over which we journeyed was a light sandy loam; and its
timber consisted chiefly of eucalypti, acacia pendula, and the
angophora.
Some natives visited us in the afternoon, and among them, both Mr. Hume
and I recognized one of those we had seen on the Darling. He also knew
us again, but we could not make out from him how far we were from that
river. They stayed with us till sunset, and then went down the creek,
leaving their spears against a tree, for which they said they would
return.
On the 23rd we took up a W.N.W. course, and when we again touched on
the creek it was dry. This was at a distance of about five miles from
where we had slept. As the animals had not recovered from their late
privations, I deemed it better to halt the party and to examine the
creek for a few miles below us, that in case it should prove destitute
of water, we might return to that we had left. Mr. Hume accordingly
rode down it for about three miles, without success; and on his
rejoining the men, we returned with them to our last camp, or to within
a short distance of it. Wishing to examine the creek above our
position, I requested Mr. Hume to take two men with him, and to trace
it down in search of water, while I should proceed in the opposite
direction. I went from the camp at an early hour, and as I wandered
along the creek, I passed a regular chain of ponds. The country on both
sides of the creek was evidently subject to flood, but more extensively
to the south than to the north. From the creek, I struck away to my
left, and after penetrating through a belt of swamp-oak and minor
shrubs, got on a small plain, which I crossed N.E. and, to my
annoyance, found it covered with rhagodia and salsolae. As I had not
started with the intention of sleeping, I turned to the S.W. a little
before sunset, and reached the tents between ten and eleven. I found
Mr. Hume awaiting me. He informed me that at about nine miles from
where we had turned back with the party, he had struck upon a junction;
and that as the junction was much larger than the channel he had been
tracing, he thought it better to follow it up for a few miles. He found
that it narrowed in width, and that its banks became steep, with a fine
avenue of flooded-gum trees overhanging them. At four miles, he came
upon another junction, and at four miles more, found himself opposite
to the ground on which we had slept on the previous Saturday. From this
point he retraced the channel, but not finding any water for three
miles below the lower junction, he returned to the camp, with a view of
prosecuting a longer journey on the morrow. Mr. Hume had become
impressed with an opinion, that the junction up which we had slept was
no other than the Castlereagh itself; and that our position was on a
creek, probably Morrisset's chain of ponds, flowing into it. As the
cattle wanted a few days' rest, Mr. Hume and I determined to ride,
unattended, along our track to our camp of the 21st, and then to follow
the channel upwards, until we should arrive at the station of the
natives, or until we should have ridden to such a distance as would set
our conjectures at rest. In the morning, however, instead of running
upon our old track, we followed that of Mr. Hume to the junction,
giving up our first intention, with a view to ascertain if there
existed any water which we could, by an effort, gain, below where Mr.
Hume had been. The channel was very broad, with a considerable fall in
its bed, and, in appearance, more resembled the slope of a lawn than
the bed of a river. It had two gum-trees in the centre of its channel,
in one of which the floods had left the trunk of a large tree. We could
discover where it narrowed and its banks rose, but, as we intended to
make a closer examination before we left the neighbourhood, we
continued our journey down the principal channel. The ground exhibited
an abundance of pasture in its immediate neighbourhood, but the distant
country was miserably poor and bare. At about three miles, we came upon
the fresh traces of some natives, which led us to the channel again,
from which we had wandered unintentionally. In it we found there had
been water very lately, and it appeared that the natives had dug holes
at the bottom to insure a longer supply. These were now exhausted, but
still retained the appearance of moisture. At a mile and a half beyond
these, we were led to some similar holes, by observing a number of
birds flying about them. The water was too muddy for us to drink, but
the horses emptied them successively. We now kept sufficiently near the
channel to insure our seeing any pool that might still remain in it,
but rode for about seven miles before we again saw water, and even
here, although it was a spring, we were obliged to dig holes, and await
their filling, before we could get sufficient for our use. Having
dined, we again pursued our journey, and almost immediately came upon a
long narrow ditch, full of water, and lined by bulrushes. The creek or
river had for some time kept the centre of a deep alluvial valley, in
which there was plenty of food for the cattle, and which, at this
place, was apparently broader than anywhere else. The situation being
favourable, we returned to the camp, and reached it late.
DEPRESSION OF THE MEN.
I do not know whether I was wrong in my conjecture, but I fancied,
about this time, that the men generally were desponding. Whether it was
that the constant fatigue entailed on myself and Mr. Hume, and that our
constant absence, or the consequent exhaustion it produced, had any
effect on their minds, or that they feared the result of our
perseverance, is difficult to say; but certainly, they all had a
depression of spirits, and looked, I thought, altered in appearance;
nor did they evince any satisfaction at our success--at least, not the
satisfaction they would have shown at an earlier period of our journey.
Before moving forward, it remained for us to ascertain if the channel
from the junction was the Castlereagh, or only a creek. The
intersection of so many channels in this neighbourhood, most of them so
much alike, made it essentially necessary that we should satisfy
ourselves on this point. Mr. Hume, therefore, accompanied me, as had at
first been intended the morning of our return to the place at which we
had slept. We took fresh horses, but dispensed with any other
attendants, and indeed went wholly unarmed.
CAMP OF NATIVES.
After following our old track to its termination, we kept up the right
bank of the channel, and at length arrived at the camp of the natives;
thus satisfying ourselves that we had been journeying on the
Castlereagh, and that we were still following it down. By this ride we
ascertained that there was a distance of five-and-forty miles in its
bed without a drop of water. Few of the natives were in the camp. The
women avoided us, but not as if they were under any apprehension.
Crossing at the head of the pool, we again got on our old track, but
seeing two or three men coming towards us we alighted, and, tying our
horses to a tree, went to meet them. One poor fellow had two ducks in
his hand, which he had just taken off the fire; these he offered to us,
and on our declining to accept of them, he called to a boy, who soon
appeared with a large trough of honey, of which we partook. One of the
men had an ulcer in the arm, and asked me what he should do to heal it;
indeed, I believe Fraser had promised him some ointment, but not having
any with me, I signified to him that he should wash it often, and
stooping down, made as if I was taking up water in my hand. The poor
fellow mistook me, and, also stooping down, took up a handful of dust
which he threw over the sore. This gave me the trouble of explaining
matters again, and by pointing to the water, I believe I at length made
him understand me.
DRY CHANNEL OF THE RIVER.
These good natured people asked us where we had slept the day we
passed, and when informed of the direction, shook their heads,
motioning at the same time, that we must have been without water. We
informed them where the party was, and asked them to come and see us,
but I fancy the distance was too great, or else we were in the beat of
another tribe. On mentioning these facts to the men, they said that two
of the natives had followed us for some miles, calling out loudly to
us, but Mr. Hume and I both being in front, we did not hear them,
although, evidently, they wished to save us distress.
Since the result of our excursion proved that the channel, about which
I had been so doubtful, was the Castlereagh, it necessarily followed,
that the creek at which we were encamped was one of those (most
probably Morrisset's chain of ponds,) which we had already crossed
nearer its source, and which Mr. Hume must have struck upon when
endeavouring to gain the Castlereagh from the marshes of the Macquarie.
A perusal of these sheets will ere this have impressed on the reader's
mind, the peculiarity of that fortune which led us from the Castlereagh
to the creek, at which alone our wants could have been supplied. Had we
wandered down the river, as we undoubtedly should have done had we
recognised it as such, the loss of many of our animals would have been
the inevitable consequence, and very probably a final issue would have
been put to our journey. It is only to those who are placed in
situations that baffle their own exertions or foresight, that the
singular guidance of Providence becomes fully apparent.
NATIVES PERISHING FROM FAMINE.
It would appear that the natives were dying fast, not from any disease,
but from the scarcity of food; and, should the drought continue, it
seemed probable they may became extinct.
The men found the body of a woman covered with leaves near the tents,
and very properly buried it. We made Friday a day of rest for
ourselves, as indeed was necessary; and on the following morning
proceeded down the river, and encamped on a high bank above it, at the
base of which, our cattle both fed and watered.
At this spot one of the largest gum-trees I had ever seen had fallen,
having died for want of moisture; indeed, the state of the vegetable
kingdom was such as to threaten its total extinction, unless a change
of seasons should take place.
It may be worthy of remark that, from our first arrival on the banks of
the Castlereagh, to our arrival at the present camp, we never picked up
a stone, or a pebble, in its bed.
JUNCTION OF THE CASTLEREAGH WITH THE DARLING.
In the hope that we should fall on some detached pond, we pursued our
journey on the 29th. The Castlereagh gave singular proofs of its
violence, as if its waters, confined in the valley, had a difficulty in
escaping from it. We had not travelled two miles, when in crossing, as
we imagined, one of its bights, we found ourselves checked by a broad
river. A single glimpse of it was sufficient to tell us it was the
Darling. At a distance of more than ninety miles nearer its source,
this singular river still preserved its character, so strikingly, that
it was impossible not to have recognised it in a moment. The same steep
banks and lofty timber, the same deep reaches, alive with fish, were
here visible as when we left it. A hope naturally arose to our minds,
that if it was unchanged in other respects, it might have lost the
saltness that rendered its waters unfit for use; but in this we were
disappointed--even its waters continued the same. As it was impossible
for us to cross the Darling, I determined on falling back upon our last
encampment, which was at a most Convenient distance, and of concerting
measures there for our future movements. Prior to doing so, however, I
rode to the junction of the Castlereagh with the Darling, accompanied
by Mr. Hume, a distance of about half a mile. Upon the point formed by
the two streams, there were a number of huts, and on the opposite bank
of the Darling, about twenty natives had collected. We called out to
them, but they would not join us.
At the junction, the Castlereagh, with whatever impetuosity it rushes
from its confinement, makes not apparently the least impression on the
Darling River. The latter seemed to loll on, totally heedless of such a
tributary.
CHAPTER IV.
Perplexity--Trait of honesty in the natives--Excursion on horseback
across the Darling--Forced to return--Desolating effects of the
drought--Retreat towards the colony--Connection between the Macquarie
and the Darling--Return up the banks of the Macquarie--Starving
condition of the natives.
On our return to the party, we found them surrounded by the natives,
who were looking with an eye of wonder on the cattle and horses. We
pointed out to them the direction in which we were going, and invited
them to visit us; and nothing appeared to astonish them so much as the
management of the team by a single man. We got back to our position
early, and again fixed ourselves upon it.
It now only remained for us to consider what we should do under
circumstances of certainly more than ordinary perplexity. We had
nothing to hope for from travelling in a southerly direction, while to
the E. and N.E., the state of the country was worse than that by which
we had penetrated to the Darling. It was evident, that the large creeks
joining the Castlereagh in that direction were dry, since the natives
not only intimated this to us, but it was unquestionable that they
themselves had deserted them, and had crowded to such places as still
contained a supply of water. Even in retreating, we could not hope to
retrace our steps. Experience had proved to us, that the dry state of
the interior was as injurious to the movements of an expedition as a
too wet season would have been. Taking everything, therefore, into
consideration, I determined on leaving the party stationary, and on
crossing the Darling to the N.W., and, if any encouraging feature
presented itself, to return for the party, and persevere in an
examination of the distant interior. Such, at least, appeared to me the
most judicious plan: indeed, an attempt to have moved in any other
direction would have been fruitless. And, as the result of this journey
would be decisive, and would either fix or determine our advance or
retreat, I was anxious for Mr. Hume's attendance.
The natives followed to the camp, and in the course of the afternoon,
were joined by their women. The latter however, would not approach
nearer than the top of a little hillock on which they sat. The men did
not come round the tents, but stood in a row at a short distance. At
sunset, they gained a little courage, and wandered about a little more;
at length they went off to the Darling.
HONESTY OF A NATIVE.
It was quite dark, when I heard a native call from the hill on which
the women had been, and I desired Hopkinson to take his firelock and
ascertain what the man wanted. He soon after returned, and brought a
blanket, which he said the man had returned to him. The native was
alone, and when he offered the blanket, kept his spear poised in his
right hand; but, seeing that no violence was intended him, he lowered
his weapon, and walked away.
REWARD THE MAN FOR HIS CONDUCT.
I was extremely pleased at this trait of honesty, and determined to
reward it. On inquiry, I found that the men had availed themselves of
the day to wash their blankets and that one of them had been flung over
a bush hanging over the bank of the river, and it was supposed that one
of the natives must have pulled it down with him. In the morning, the
tribe went away from their encampment before day-light as we judged
from the cry of their dogs, than which nothing could be more
melancholy; but about eight, the men made their appearance on the hill
occupied by the women the evening previously, and seemed to be doubtful
whether to approach nearer. I went out to them, and, with a downward
motion of my hand, beckoned for them to come to me: they mistook the
signal, but laid all their spears on the ground, and it was not until
after the sign had been reversed that they stirred or moved towards me.
I then got them in a row, and desired Hopkinson to single out the man
who had given him the blanket. It was, however, with great difficulty
that he recognised him, as the man stood firm and motionless. At
length, after walking two or three times along the line, he stopped
before one man, and put his hand on his shoulder, upon which the manner
of the native testified as to the correctness of his guess.
The blanket being produced, I explained to the savage, with Mr. Hume's
assistance, that I was highly pleased with him, and forthwith presented
him with a tomahawk and a clasp-knife. The tribe were perfectly aware
of the reason of my conduct, and all of them seemed highly delighted.
I was happy in having such an opportunity of showing the natives of the
interior that I came among them with a determination to maintain
justice in my communication with them, and to impress them, at the same
time, with a sense of our love of it in them. That they appreciated my
apparent lenity in not calling for the defaulter, I am sure, and I feel
perfectly conscious that I should have failed in my duty had I acted
otherwise than I did.
EFFECT OF FIRING A GUN.
Although the natives had shown so good a disposition, as they were
numerous, I thought it as well, since I was about to leave the camp, to
show them that I had a power they little dreamt of about me. I
therefore called for my gun and fired a ball into a tree. The effect of
the report upon the natives, was truly ridiculous. Some stood and
stared at me, others fell down, and others ran away; and it was with
some difficulty we collected them again. At last, however, we did so,
and, leaving them to pick out the ball, mounted our horses and struck
away for the Darling. We crossed the river a little above where we
struck it, and then proceeded N.W. into the interior.
EXCURSION ACROSS THE DARLING.
It is impossible for me to describe the nature of the country over
which we passed, for the first eight miles. We rode through brushes of
polygonum, under rough-gum, without a blade of vegetation, the whole
space being subject to inundation. We then got on small plains of
firmer surface, and red soil, but these soon changed again for the
former; and at 4 p.m. we found ourselves advanced about two miles on a
plain that stretched away before us, and bounded the horizon. It was
dismally brown; a few trees only served to mark the distance. Up one of
the highest I sent Hopkinson, who reported that he could not see the
end of it, and that all around looked blank and desolate. It is a
singular fact, that during the whole day, we had not seen a drop of
water or a blade of grass.
DESOLATING EFFECTS OF THE DROUGHT.
To have stopped where we were, would, therefore, have been impossible;
to have advanced, would probably have been ruin. Had there been one
favorable circumstance to have encouraged me with the hope of success,
I would have proceeded. Had we picked up a stone as indicating our
approach to high land, I would have gone on; or had there been a break
in the level of the country, or even a change in the vegetation. But we
had left all traces of the natives far behind us; and this seemed a
desert they never entered--that not even a bird inhabited. I could not
encourage a hope of success, and, therefore, gave up the point; not
from want of means, but a conviction of the inutility of any further
efforts. If there is any blame to be attached to the measure, it is I
who am in fault, but none who had not like me traversed the interior at
such a season, would believe the state of the country over which I had
wandered. During the short interval I had been out, I had seen rivers
cease to flow before me, and sheets of water disappear; and had it not
been for a merciful Providence, should, ere reaching the Darling, have
been overwhelmed by misfortune.
I am giving no false picture of the reality. So long had the drought
continued, that the vegetable kingdom was almost annihilated, and minor
vegetation had disappeared. In the creeks, weeds had grown and
withered, and grown again; and young saplings were now rising in their
beds, nourished by the moisture that still remained; but the largest
forest trees were drooping, and many were dead. The emus, with
outstretched necks, gasping for breath, searched the channels of the
rivers for water, in vain; and the native dog, so thin that it could
hardly walk, seemed to implore some merciful hand to despatch it. How
the natives subsisted it was difficult to say, but there was no doubt
of the scarcity of food among them.
We arrived in camp at a late hour, and having nothing to detain us
longer, prepared for our retreat in the morning. The natives had
remained with the party during the greater part of the day, and had
only left them a short time prior to our arrival.
When examining the creek on which we had been encamped for some days,
Mr. Hume observed a small junction; and as we knew we were almost due
N. of the marshes of the Macquarie, both of us were anxious to
ascertain whence it originated. To return to Mount Harris, by retracing
our steps up the Castlereagh, would have entailed the severest distress
upon us; we the rather preferred proceeding up this creek, and taking
our chance for a supply of water. We therefore crossed Morrisset's
chain of ponds, and encamped in the angle formed by the junction of the
two creeks.
Before we left this position, we were visited by a party of natives,
twelve in number, but not of the Darling tribe. They accompanied us a
short way, and then struck off to the right. At about a mile and a
half, we crossed Mr. Hume's track, leading westerly, which still
remained observable. The creek was, no doubt, the hollow he stated that
he crossed on that excursion, and its appearance certainly justified
his opinion of it. Its bed was choked up with bulrushes or the
polygonum, and its banks were level with the country on either side, or
nearly so. We passed over extremely rich soil the whole day, on a S.W.
and by W. course, though the timber upon it was dwarfish, and
principally of the rough-gum kind.
On the 2nd of April, we stopped in order to make some repairs upon the
dray; the wheels of which had failed us. Clayton put in four new
spokes, and we heated the tyres over again, by which means we got it
once more serviceable.
WILD MELON.
The soil in the creek was of the richest quality, and was found to
produce a dwarf melon, having all the habits and character of the
cucumber. The fruit was not larger than a pigeon's egg, but was
extremely sweet. There were not, however, many ripe, although the
runners were covered with flowers, and had an abundance of fruit upon
them. In the morning, we sent the tinker on horseback up the creek, to
ascertain how far the next water was from us, desiring him to keep the
creek upon his right, and to follow his own track back again. He
thought fit, however, considering himself a good bushman, to wander
away to his left, and the consequence was, that he soon lost himself.
It would appear that he doubled and passed through some thick brush at
the back of the camp, and at length found himself at dark on the banks
of a considerable creek. In wandering along it, he luckily struck upon
the natives we had last seen, who, good-naturedly, led him to the track
of the dray, which his horse would not afterwards desert, and the
tinker sneaked into the tent about 3 o'clock in the morning, having
failed in his errand, and made himself the butt of the whole party.
RETURN UP THE CREEK.
The day succeeding this adventure, we moved up the creek, which was,
for the most part, even with the plain. The country continued the same
as that we had passed over from the junction, being subject to flood,
and having patches of bulrushes and reeds upon it. No change took place
in the timber, but the line of acacia pendula, which forms the line of
inundation, approached neater to us; nor was the mark of flood so high
on the trunks of trees as below. We halted, with abominable water, but
excellent food for the animals in the plains behind us. In continuing
our journey, we found several changes take place in the appearance of
the creek and its neighbourhood. The former diminished in size, and at
length separated into two distinct channels, choked up, for the most
part, with dead bulrushes, but having a few green reeds in patches
along it. The flats on either side became slightly timbered, and blue
gum was the prevailing tree. Crossing one of the channels, we observed
every appearance of our near approach to the marshes, the flats being
intersected by many little water-runs, such as we had noticed at the
bottom of them. About noon we struck upon a body of reeds under the
wood of eucalypti, below the second great morass, and keeping a little
to our right to avoid them, fell shortly afterwards into our old track
on the plain, upon which we continued to move, making the best of our
way to the channel which had supplied our wants on our first return
from the Darling. It was now, however, quite dry, and we were obliged
to push on further, to shorten the journey of the morrow.
CONNECTION OF MACQUARIE AND DARLING.
The result of our journey up the creek was particularly satisfactory,
both to myself and Mr. Hume; since it cleared up every doubt that might
have existed regarding the actual termination of the Macquarie, and
enabled us to connect the flow of waters at so interesting and
particular a point. It will be seen by a reference to the chart, that
the waters of the marshes, after trickling through the reeds, form a
small creek, which carries off the superfluous part of them into
Morrisset's chain of ponds, which latter again falls into the
Castlereagh, at about eight miles to the W.N.W. and all three join the
Darling in a W. by N. direction, in lat. 30 degrees 52 minutes south
and E. lon. 147 degrees 8 minutes at about 90 miles to the N.N.W. of
Mount Harris, and about an equal distance to the E.S.E. of where we
struck upon the last-mentioned river. Thus it is evident that the
Darling had considerably neared the eastern ranges, although it was
still more than 150 miles from their base. It was apparently coming
from the N.E., and whether it has its sources in the mountains behind
our distant settlements, or still farther to the northwards, is a
question of curious speculation, although, as I have already stated, I
am of opinion that none but tropical rains could supply the furious
torrent that must sometimes rage in it.
It would be presumptuous to hazard any opinion as to the nature of the
interior to the westward of that remarkable river. Its course is
involved in equal mystery, and it is a matter of equal doubt whether it
makes its way to the south coast, or ultimately exhausts itself in
feeding a succession of swamps, or falls into a large reservoir in the
centre of the island.
RETURN TO MOUNT HARRIS.
We reached Mount Harris on the 7th of the month, and moving leisurely
up the banks of the Macquarie, gained Mr. Palmer's first station on the
14th, and Wellington Valley on the 21st, having been absent from that
settlement four months and two weeks. The waters of the Macquarie had
diminished so much, that its bed was dry for more than half a mile at a
stretch, nor did we observe the least appearance of a current in it,
until after we had ascended the ranges. The lower tribes were actually
starving, and brought their children to us to implore something to eat.
The men attempted to surprise the camp, but I believe they were urged
from absolute necessity to procure subsistence for themselves, and that
they intended robbery rather than personal violence.
DEPLORABLE STATE OF THE COUNTRY.
We left the interior in a still more deplorable state than that in
which we found it; but it is more than probable that under other
circumstances, we should have found it impossible to traverse its
distant plains, as it is certain that unless rain fell in less than
three weeks, all communication with the Darling would have been cut off:
CHAPTER V.
General remarks--Result of the expedition--Previous anticipations--Mr.
Oxley's remarks--Character of the Rivers flowing westerly--Mr.
Cunningham's remarks--Fall of the Macquarie--Mr. Oxley's erroneous
conclusions respecting the character of the interior, naturally
inferred from the state in which he found the country--The marsh of the
Macquarie merely a marsh of the ordinary character--Captain King's
observations--Course of the Darling--Character of the low interior
plain--The convict Barber's report of rivers traversing the
interior--Surveyor-General Mitchell's Report of his recent expedition.
RESULT OF THE EXPEDITION.
Whether the discoveries that have been made during this expedition,
will ultimately prove of advantage to the colony of New South Wales, is
a question that time alone can answer. We have in the meanwhile to
regret that no beneficial consequences will immediately follow them.
The further knowledge that has been gained of the interior is but as a
gleam of sunshine over an extensive landscape. A stronger light has
fallen upon the nearer ground, but the distant horizon is still
enveloped in clouds. The veil has only as it were been withdrawn from
the marshes of the Macquarie to be spread over the channel of the
Darling. Unsatisfactory, however, as the discoveries may as yet be
considered in a commercial point of view, the objects for which the
expedition had been fitted out were happily attained. The marsh it had
been directed to examine, was traversed on every side, and the rivers
it had been ordered to trace, were followed down to their terminations
to a distance far beyond where they had ceased to exist as living
streams. To many who may cast their eyes over the accompanying chart,
the extent of newly discovered country may appear trifling; but when
they are told, that there is not a mile of that ground that was not
traversed over and over again, either by Mr. Hume or by myself, that we
wandered over upwards of 600 miles more than the main body of the
expedition, on different occasions, in our constant and anxious search
for water, and that we seldom dismounted from our horses, until long
after sunset, they will acknowledge the difficulties with which we had
to contend, and will make a generous allowance for them; for, however
unsuccessful in some respects the expedition may have been, it
accomplished as much, it is to be hoped, as under such trying
circumstances could have been accomplished. It now only remains for me
to sum up the result of my own observations, and to point out to the
reader, how far the actual state of the interior, has been found to
correspond with the opinions that were entertained of it.
MR. OXLEY'S REMARKS.
I have already stated, in the introduction to this work, that the
general impression on the minds of those best qualified to judge was,
that the western streams discharged themselves into a central shoal
sea. Mr. Oxley thus expresses himself on the subject:--
"July 3rd. Towards morning the storm abated, and at day-light, we
proceeded on our voyage. The main bed of the river was much contracted,
but very deep; the waters spreading to the depth of a foot or eighteen
inches over the banks, but all running on the same point of bearing. We
met with considerable interruptions from fallen timber, which in places
nearly choked up the channel. After going about twenty miles, we lost
the land and trees; the channel of the river, which lay through reeds,
and was from one to three feet deep, ran northerly.--This continued for
three or four miles farther, when, although there had been no previous
change in the breadth, depth, or rapidity of the stream for several
miles, and I was sanguine in my expectations of soon entering the
long-sought-for Australian sea, it all at once eluded our farther
pursuit, by spreading on every point from N.W. to N.E. among the ocean
of reeds which surrounded us, still running with the same rapidity as
before. There was no channel whatever among those reeds, and the depth
varied from three to five feet. This astonishing change (for I cannot
call it a termination of the river) of course left me no alternative
but to endeavour to return to some spot on which we could effect a
landing before dark. I estimated, that during the day, we had gone
about twenty-four miles, on nearly the same point of bearing as
yesterday. To assert, positively, that we were on the margin of the
lake, or sea, into which this great body of water is discharged, might
reasonably be deemed a conclusion, which has nothing but conjecture for
its basis. But if an opinion may be permitted to be hazarded from
actual appearances, mine is decidedly in favour of our being in the
immediate vicinity of an inland sea, or lake, most probably a shoal
one, and gradually filling up by numerous depositions from the high
lands, left by the waters which flow into it. It is most singular, that
the high lands on this continent seem to be confined to the sea-coast,
and not to extend to any distance from it."
MR. CUNNINGHAM'S REMARKS.
In a work published at Sydney, containing an account of Mr. Allan
Cunningham's journey towards Moreton Bay, in 1828, the following
remarks occur, from which it is evident Mr. Cunningham entertained Mr.
Oxley's views of the character and nature of the Western interior.
Towards the conclusion of the narrative, the author thus observes:--
"Of the probable character of the distant unexplored interior, into
which it has been ascertained ALL the rivers falling westerly from the
dividing ranges flow, some inference may be drawn from the following
data.
"Viewing, between the parallels of 34 degrees and 27 degrees, a vast
area of depressed interior, subjected in seasons of prolonged rains to
partial inundation, by a dispersion of the several waters that flow
upon it from the eastern mountains whence they originate; and bearing
in mind at the same time, that the declension of the country within the
above parallels, as most decidedly shown by the dip of its several
rivers, is uniformly to the N.N.W. and N.W., it would appear very
conclusive, that either a portion of our distant interior is occupied
by a lake of considerable magnitude, or that the confluence of those
large streams, the Macquarie, Castlereagh, Gwydir, and the Dumaresq,
with the many minor interfluent waters, which doubtless takes place
upon those low levels, forms one or more noble rivers, which may flow
across the continent by an almost imperceptible declivity of country to
the north of north-west coasts, on certain parts of which, recent
surveys have discovered to us extensive openings, by which the largest
accumulations of waters might escape to the sea."
CHARACTER OF THE RIVERS.
It is the characteristic of the streams falling westerly from the
eastern, or coast ranges, to maintain a breadth of channel and a
rapidity of current more immediately near their sources, that ill
accords with their diminished size, and the sluggish flow of their
waters in the more depressed interior. In truth, neither the Macquarie
nor the Castlereagh can strictly be considered as permanent rivers. The
last particularly is nothing more than a mountain torrent. The
Macquarie, although it at length ceased to run, kept up the appearance
of a river to the very marshes; but the bed of the Castlereagh might
have been crossed in many places without being noticed, nor did its
channel contain so much water as was to be found on the neighbouring
plains.
There are two circumstances upon which the magnitude, and velocity of a
river, more immediately depend. The first is the abundance of its
sources, the other the dip of its bed. If a stream has constant
fountains at its head, and numerous tributaries joining it in its
course, and flows withal through a country of gradual descent, such a
stream will never fail; but if the supplies do not exceed the
evaporation and absorption, to which every river is subject, if a river
dependant on its head alone, falls rapidly into a level country,
without receiving a single addition to its waters to assist the first
impulse acquired in their descent, it must necessarily cease to flow at
one point or other. Such is the case with the Lachlan, the Macquarie,
the Castlereagh, and the Darling. Whence the latter originates, still
remains to be ascertained; but most undoubtedly its sources have been
influenced by the same drought that has exhausted the fountains of the
three first mentioned streams.
In supporting his opinion of the probable discharge of the interior
waters of Australia upon its north-west coast, Mr. Cunningham thus
remarks in the publication from which I have already made an extract.
"To those remarkable parts of the north-west coast above referred to in
the parallel of 16 degrees south, the Macquarie river, which rises in
lat. 33 degrees, and under the meridian of 150 degrees east, would have
a course of 2045 statute miles throughout, while the elevation of its
source, being 3500 feet above the level of the sea as shown by the
barometer, would give its waters an average descent of twenty inches to
the mile, supposing the bed of the river to be an inclined plane.
"The Gwydir originating in elevated land, lying in 31 degrees south,
and long. 151 degrees east, at a mean height of 3000 feet, would have
to flow 2020 miles, its elevated sources giving to each a mean fall of
seventeen inches.
"Dumaresq's river falling 2970 feet from granite mountains, in 28 1/4
degrees under the meridian of 152 degrees, would have to pursue its
course for 2969 miles, its average fall being eighteen inches to a
mile."
As I have never been upon the banks either of the Gwydir or the
Dumaresq, I cannot speak of those two rivers; but in estimating the
sources of the Macquarie at 3500 feet above the level of the sea, Mr.
Cunningham has lost sight of, or overlooked the fact, that the fall of
its bed in the first two hundred miles, is more than 2800 feet, since
the cataract, which is midway between Wellington Valley and the
marshes, was ascertained by barometrical admeasurement, to be 680 feet
only above the ocean. The country, therefore, through which the
Macquarie would have to flow during the remainder of its course of 1700
miles, in order to gain the N.W. coast, would not be a gradually
inclined plain, but for the most part a dead level, and the fact of its
failure is a sufficient proof in itself how short the course of a river
so circumstanced must necessarily be.
MR. OXLEY'S OPINIONS.
Having conversed frequently with Mr. Oxley on the subject of his
expeditions, I went into the interior prepossessed in favour of his
opinions, nor do I think he could have drawn any other conclusion than
that which he did, from his experience of the terminations of the
rivers whose courses he explored. Had Mr. Oxley advanced forty, or even
thirty miles, farther than he did, to the westward of Mount Harris;
nay, had he proceeded eight miles in the above direction beyond the
actual spot from which he turned back, he would have formed other and
very different opinions of the probable character of the distant
interior. But I am aware that Mr. Oxley performed all that enterprise,
and perseverance, and talent could have performed, and that it would
have been impracticable in him to have attempted to force its marshes
in the state in which he found them. It was from his want of knowledge
of their nature and extent, that he inferred the swampy and
inhospitable character of the more remote country, a state in which
subsequent investigation has found it not to be. The marsh of the
Macquarie is nothing more than an ordinary marsh or swamp in another
country. However large a space it covers, it is no more than a
concavity or basin for the reception of the waters of the river itself,
nor has it any influence whatever on the country to the westward of it,
in respect to inundation; the general features of the latter being a
regular alternation of plain and brush. These facts are in themselves
sufficient to give a fresh interest to the interior of the Australian
continent, and to increase its importance.
CAPT. KING'S OPINIONS.
With respect to that part of its coast at which the rivers falling from
the eastern mountains, discharge themselves, it is a question of very
great doubt. It seems that Capt. King, in consequence of some
peculiarities in the currents at its N.W. angle, supports Mr.
Cunningham's opinion as to their probable discharge in that quarter.
But I fear the internal structure of the continent is so low, as to
preclude the hopes of any river reaching from one extremity of it to
the other. A variety of local circumstances, as the contraction of a
channel, a shoal sea, or numerous islands, influence currents
generally, but more especially round so extensive a continent as that
of which we are treating; nor does it strike me that any observations
made by Capt. King during his survey, can be held to bear any
connection with the eastern ranges, or their western waters. It may,
however, be said, that as the course of the Darling is still involved
in uncertainty, the question remains undecided; but it appears to me,
the discovery of that river has set aside every conjecture (founded on
previous observation) respecting the main features of the interior
lying to the westward of the Blue Mountains. Both Mr. Oxley and Mr.
Cunningham drew their conclusions from the appearances of the country
they severally explored. The ground on which those theories were built,
has been travelled over, and has not been found to realise them, but
subsequent investigation has discovered to us a river, the dip of whose
bed is to the S.W. We have every reason to believe that the sources of
this river must be far to the northward of the most distant northerly
point to which any survey has been made, as we are certain that it is
far beyond the stretch of vision from the loftiest and most westerly of
the barrier ranges; from which circumstance, it is evident that
whatever disposition the streams descending from those ranges to the
westward may show to hold a N.W. course more immediately at the base,
the whole of the interior streams, from the Macquarie to the Dumaresq,
are tributaries to the principal channel which conveys their united
waters at right angles, if not still more opposite to the direction
they were supposed to take, as far as is yet known.
COURSE OF THE DARLING.
The Darling River must be considered as the boundary line to all inland
discoveries from the eastward. Any judgment or opinion of the interior
to the westward of that stream, would be extremely premature and
uncertain. There is not a single feature over it to guide or to
strengthen either the one or the other.
CHARACTER OF THE WESTERN INTERIOR.
My impression, when travelling the country to the west and N.W. of the
marshes of the Macquarie, was, that I was traversing a country of
comparatively recent formation. The sandy nature of its soil, the great
want of vegetable decay, the salsolaceous character of its plants, the
appearance of its isolated hills and flooded tracts, and its trifling
elevations above the sea, severally contributed to strengthen these
impressions on my mind. My knowledge of the interior is, however, too
limited to justify me in any conclusion with regard to the central
parts of Australia. An ample field is open to enterprise and to
ambition, and it is to be hoped that some more decisive measures will
be carried into effect, both for the sake of the colony and of
geography, to fill up the blank upon the face of the chart of
Australia, and remove from us the reproach of indifference and inaction.
BARBER'S STATEMENT.
Since the above pages were written, an expedition was undertaken by
Major Mitchell, the Surveyor-General, to ascertain the truth of a
report brought in by a runaway convict of the name of Barber, or
Clarke, who had been at large for five years, at different times, among
the natives to the northward of Port Macquarie. This man stated that a
large river, originating in the high lands near Liverpool Plains, and
the mountains to the north of them, pursued a N.W. course to the sea.
His story ran thus: Having learnt from the natives the existence of
this river, he determined to follow it down, in hopes that he might
ultimately be enabled to make his escape from the colony. He
accordingly started from Liverpool Plains, and kept on a river called
the Gnamoi, for some time, which took him N.W. After a few days'
journey, he left this river, traversed the country northwards, and
crossed some lofty ranges. Descending to the N.E. he came to another
large river, the Keindur, which again took him N.W. He travelled 400
miles down it, when he observed a large stream joining it upon its left
bank, which he supposed to be the Gnamoi. The river he was upon was
broad and navigable. It flowed through a level country with a dead
current and muddy water, and spread into frequent lakes. He found that
it ultimately discharged itself into the sea, but was uncertain at what
distance from its sources. He was positive he never travelled to the
SOUTHWARD OF WEST. He ascended a hill near the sea, and observed an
island in the distance, from which, the natives informed him, a race of
light-coloured men came in large canoes for a scented wood; but having
failed in the immediate object of his journey, he was eventually
obliged to return.
MAJOR MITCHELL'S REPORT.
The following official report of Major Mitchell will sufficiently point
out the incorrectness of the preceding statement. It is most probable
that Barber merely told that which he had heard from the natives, and
that having a more than ordinary share of cunning, he made up a story
upon their vague and uncertain accounts, in hopes that it would benefit
him, as in truth it did.
* * * * *
Bullabalakit, on the River Nammoy,
in lat. 30 degrees 38 minutes 21 seconds S.,
long. 149 degrees 30 minutes 20 seconds E.
23d December, 1831.
SIR,
I have the honour to state, for the information of His Excellency the
Governor, the progress I have made in exploring the course of the
interior waters to the northward of the Colony, with reference to the
letter which I had the honour to address to Col. Lindesay, on this
subject, on the 19th ult.
On crossing Liverpool Range my object was to proceed northward, so as
to avoid the plains and head the streams which water them, and avoiding
also the mountain ranges on the east.
I arrived accordingly, by a tolerably straight and level line, at
Walamoul, on Peel's River; this place (a cattle station of Mr. Brown)
being nearly due north from the common pass across Liverpool Range, and
about a mile-and-a-half above the spot where Mr. Oxley crossed this
river.
PEEL'S RIVER.
I found the general course of the Peel below Walamoul to be nearly
west; and after tracing this river downwards twenty-two miles (in
direct distance), I crossed it at an excellent ford, named Wallamburra.
I then traversed the extensive plain of Mulluba; and leaving that of
Coonil on the right, extending far to the north-east, we passed through
a favourable interval of what I considered Hardwicke's Range, the
general direction of this range being two points west of north.
On passing through this gorge, which, from the name of a hill on the
south side, may be named Ydire, I crossed a very extensive tract of
flat country, on which the wood consisted of iron-bark and acacia
pendula; this tract being part of a valley evidently declining to the
north-west, which is bounded on the south by the Liverpool Range, and
on the south-west by the extremities from the same. On the west, at a
distance of twenty-two miles from Hardwicke's Range, there stands a
remarkable isolated hill named Bounalla; and towards the lowest part of
the country, and in the direction in which all the waters tend, there
is a rocky peak named Tangulda. On the north, a low range (named Wowa),
branching westerly from Hardwicke's Range, bounds on that side this
extensive basin, which includes Liverpool Plains. Peel's River is the
principal stream, and receives, in its course, all the waters of these
plains below the junction of Connadilly,--which I take to be York's
River, of Oxley.
THE RIVER NAMMOY.
The stream is well known to the natives by the name Nammoy; and six
miles below Tangulda, the low extremities from the surrounding ranges
close on the river, and separate this extensive vale from the
unexplored country which extends beyond to an horizon which is unbroken
between W.N.W. and N.N.W.
The impracticable appearance of the mountains to the northward, induced
me to proceed thus far to the west; and on examining the country thirty
miles N.E. by N. from Tangulda, I ascended a lofty range extending
westward from the coast chain, and on which the perpendicular sides of
masses of trachyte (a volcanic rock) were opposed to my further
progress even with horses: it was therefore evident that the river
supposed to rise about the latitude of 28 degrees would not be
accessible, or at least available to the Colony, in that direction, and
that in the event of the discovery of a river beyond that range flowing
to the northern or north-western shores, it would become of importance
to ascertain whether it was joined by the Nammoy, the head of this
river being so accessible that I have brought my heavily laden drays to
where it is navigable for boats, my present encampment being on its
banks six miles below Tangulda. From this station I can perceive the
western termination of the Trachytic range, and I am now about to
explore the country between it and the Nammoy, and the further course
of this river; and in the event of its continuance in a favourable
direction, I shall fix my depot on its right bank, whence I now write,
and descend the stream in the portable boats.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
T. L. MITCHELL,
SURVEYOR-GENERAL
The Hon. The Colonial Secretary.
* * * * *
Peel's River, 29th February, 1832.
SIR,
I have the honour to inform you, for the information of His Excellency
the Governor, that I have reached the left bank of this River with my
whole party on my return from the northern interior, having explored
the course of the river referred to in my letter of 22nd December last,
and others within the 29th parallel of latitude.
There was so much fallen timber in the Nammoy, and its waters were so
low, that the portable boats could not be used on that river with
advantage, and I proceeded by land in a north-west direction, until
convinced by its course turning more to the westward that this river
joined the river Darling. I therefore quitted its banks with the
intention of exploring the country further northward, by moving round
the western extremities of the mountains mentioned in my former letter,
and which I have since distinguished in my map by the name of the
Lindesay Range. These mountains terminate abruptly on the west, and I
entered a fine open country at their base, from whence plains (or
rather open ground of gentle undulation) extended westward as far as
could be seen. On turning these mountains I directed my course
northward, and to the eastward of north, into the country beyond them,
in search of the river KINDUR; and I reached a river flowing westward,
the bed of which was deep, broad, and permanent, but in which there was
not then much water.
THE RIVER KARAULA.
The marks of inundation on trees, and on the adjoining high ground,
proved that its floods rose to an extraordinary height; and from the
latitude, and also from the general direction of its course, I
considered this to be the river which Mr. Cunningham named the Gwydir,
on crossing it sixty miles higher, on his route to Moreton Bay. I
descended this river, and explored the country on its left bank for
about eighty miles to the westward, when I found that its general
course was somewhat to the southward of west. This river received no
addition from the mountains over that part of its left bank traversed
by me; and the heat being intense, the stream was at length so reduced
that I could step across it. The banks had become low, and the bed much
contracted, being no longer gravelly, but muddy. I therefore crossed
this river and travelled northward, on a meridian line, until, in the
latitude of 29 degrees 2 minutes, I came upon the largest river I had
yet seen. The banks were earthy and broken, the soil being loose, and
the water of a white muddy colour. Trees, washed out by the roots from
the soft soil, filled the bed of this river in many places. There was
abundance of cod-fish of a small size, as well as of the two other
kinds of fish which we had caught in the Peel, the Nammoy, and the
Gwydir. The name of this river, as well as we could make it out from
the natives, was Karaula. Having made fast one tree to top of another
tall tree, I obtained a view of the horizon, which appeared perfectly
level, and I was in hopes that we had at length found a river which
would flow to the northward and avoid the Darling. I accordingly
ordered the boat to be put together, and sent Mr. White with a party
some miles down to clear away any trees in the way. Mr. White came upon
a rocky fall, and found besides the channel so much obstructed by
trees, and the course so tortuous, that I determined to ascertain
before embarking upon it, whether the general course was in the desired
direction. Leaving Mr. White with half the party, I accordingly traced
the Karaula downwards, and found that its course changed to south, a
few miles below where I had made it, and that it was joined by the
Gwydir only eight miles below where I had crossed that river.
Immediately below the junction of the Gwydir (which is in latitude 29
degrees 30 minutes 27 seconds, longitude 148 degrees 13 minutes 20
seconds) the course of the river continues southward of west, directly
towards where Captain Sturt discovered the River Darling; and I could
no longer doubt that this was the same river. I therefore returned to
the party, determined to explore the country further northward.
The results of my progress thus far were sufficient, I considered, to
prove that the division of the waters falling towards the northern and
southern shores of Australia is not, as has been supposed, in the
direction of the Liverpool and Warrabangle range, but extends between
Cape Byron on the eastern shore, towards Dick Hartog's Island on the
west; the greater elongation of this country being between these
points, and intermediate between the lines of its northern and southern
coasts. The basin of the streams I have been upon must be bounded on
the north by this dividing ground or water-shed, and although no rise
was perceptible in the northern horizon, the river was traversed by
several rocky dykes, over which it fell southward; their direction
being oblique to the course, and nearly parallel to this division of
the waters. I beg leave to state, that I should not feel certain on
this point without having seen more, were it not evident from Mr.
Cunningham's observations, made on crossing this division on his way to
Moreton Bay. Mr. Cunningham, on crossing the head of this river, nearly
in the same latitude, but much nearer its sources, found the height of
its bed above the sea to be 840 feet; at about forty-five miles further
northward the ground rose to upwards of 1700 feet, but immediately
beyond, he reached a river flowing north-west, the height of which was
only 1400 feet above the sea. He had thus crossed this dividing higher
ground, between the parallels of 29 degrees and 28 degrees. It appears,
therefore, that all the interior rivers we know of to the northward of
the Morumbidgee, belong to the basin of the Karaula; this stream
flowing southward, and hence the disappearance of the Macquarie and
other lower rivers may be understood, for all along the banks of the
Karaula, the Gwydir, and the Nammoy, the country, though not swampy,
bears marks of frequent inundation; thus the floods occasioned by these
rivers united, cover the low country, and receive the Macquarie so that
no channel marks its further course.
That a basin may be found to the northward receiving the waters of the
northern part of the coast range in a similar manner is extremely
probable, and that they form a better river, because the angle is more
acute between the high ground, which must bound it on the N.E. and the
watershed on the south. I therefore prepared to cross the Karaula, in
hopes of seeing the head at least of such a river, and to explore the
country two degrees further northward, but moving in a N.W. direction.
My tent was struck, and I had just launched my portable boat for the
purpose of crossing the river, when Mr. Surveyor Finch, whom I had
instructed to bring up a supply of flour, arrived with the distressing
intelligence, that two of his men had been killed by the natives, who
had taken the flour, and were in possession of everything he had
brought--all the cattle, including his horse, being also dispersed or
lost. I therefore determined not to extend my excursion further, as the
party were already on reduced rations, and on the 8th instant I retired
from the Karaula, returning by the marked line, which being cut through
thick scrubs in various places, is now open, forming a tolerably direct
line of communication in a N.W. direction from Sydney, to a river,
beyond which the survey may be extended whenever His Excellency the
Governor thinks fit.
The natives had never troubled my party on our advance; indeed I only
saw them when I came upon them by surprise, and then they always ran
off. Their first visit was received at my camp on the Karaula, during
my absence down that river, when they were very friendly, but much
disposed to steal. Various tribes followed us on coming back, but never
with any show of hostility, although moving in tribes of a hundred or
more parallel to our marked line, or in our rear; it was necessary to
be ever on our guard, and to encamp in strong positions only, arranging
the drays for defence during the night: three men were always under
arms, and I have much pleasure in stating, that throughout the whole
excursion, and under circumstances of hardship and privation, the
conduct of the men was very good. I took an armed party to the scene of
pillage, and buried the bodies of the two men, who appeared to have
been treacherously murdered while asleep by the blacks during the
absence of Mr. Finch: no natives were to be found when I visited the
spot, although it appeared from columns of smoke on hills which
overlooked if, that they were watching our movements.
The party has now arrived within a day's journey of Brown's station,
and I have instructed Assistant-Surveyor White (from whom I have
received great assistance during the whole journey) to conduct it
homewards, being desirous to proceed without delay to Sydney, and to
receive the instructions of His Excellency the Governor.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient Servant,
T. L. MITCHELL,
SURVEYOR-GENERAL.
THE HON. THE COLONIAL SECRETARY, "&c. &c. &c."
Chapter VI.
CONCLUDING REMARKS
Obstacles that attend travelling into the interior of
Australia--Difficulty of carrying supplies--Importance of steady
intelligent subordinates--Danger from the natives--Number of men
requisite,--and of cattle and carriages--Provisions--Other
arrangements--Treatment of the natives--Dimensions of the boat used in
the second expedition.
Having now had considerable experience in the fitting out and
management of expeditions in New South Wales, I cannot refrain from
making some few observations on the subject. And without presuming to
lay dawn any fixed rules, I shall only refer to those by which I have
best succeeded, in hopes that some of my remarks may prove of use to
future travellers who may venture to penetrate into the trackless
deserts over so small a portion of which I wandered.
DIFFICULTIES OF EXPLORING AUSTRALIA.
The great difficulty of examining the interior of Australia, is that of
carrying supplies; for increasing the number of individuals composing
an expedition is of no avail, since an additional number of men must
necessarily increase the consumption of food. In order to meet this
difficulty it has been proposed to establish depots upon which an
expedition could fall back to recruit its supplies, and in ordinary
cases this plan might answer; but I am decidedly of opinion that no
party could long remain stationary in the distant interior without some
fatal collision with the natives, which would be attended with the most
deplorable consequences; and I do think, considering all things, that
the experiment is too dangerous to be tried; for when I reached Mount
Harris, on my first retreat from the Darling, I found the party who
were awaiting me, with a supply of provisions, under very great alarm,
in consequence of the hostile proceedings of the Mount Harris tribe.
The men had been obliged to put the camp into a state of defence. The
blacks had attempted to surprise them, and would, had I not returned,
have combined in some general attack. It appears to me that the most
judicious plan would be to send a supply of provisions, with an
expedition, to a distant point, under the charge of a minor party.
These provisions could replace those already expended, and the animals
that carried them could be taken back.
SELECTION OF SUBORDINATES.
The number of individuals of which the expedition down the banks of the
Macquarie was composed, was fourteen: that is to say, myself, Mr. Hume,
two soldiers, one free man, and seven prisoners of the crown. The
latter behaved, on all occasions, as steadily as it was possible for
men to do. Yet the circumstance of the two soldiers being with me
increased my confidence in the whole, for I was aware that their
example would influence the rest. However well disposed the prisoners
of the crown may be, (as in this instance they certainly were,) the
beneficial example of steady discipline cannot be denied. I should not
have considered myself justified in leaving the camp as I did for a
week, and in detaching Mr. Hume at the same time when at the bottom of
the marshes, or in making the last effort to maintain our position on
the banks of the Darling, if I had not reposed every confidence in the
man to whom I entrusted the safety of the camp during my absence.
Experience, therefore, of the value of the two soldiers, whom General
Darling was good enough to permit me to take on the strength of the
party, fully bears me out in recommending that one man, at least, of
general responsibility shall be attached to all future expeditions. The
success of an expedition depends so much on the conduct of the persons
of whom it is composed, that too much attention cannot be given to the
selection even of the most subordinate. Men of active intelligent
minds, of persevering habits, and of even temper, should be preferred
to mechanics who do not possess these most requisite qualities. On the
other hand, it is impossible to do without a good carpenter, however
defective he may be in other respects. I was indebted to Mr. Maxwell,
the superintendent of Wellington Valley, for some excellent men, both
on my first and on my second journey, because he understood the nature
of the service for which they were required, and the characters of
those whom he recommended. But however well selected the party, or the
men rather, might be, I still consider a man of general responsibility
necessary for its complete organisation. I would have him somewhat
superior to the rest in his station in life. Him I would hold
answerable for the immediate discipline of the camp, whilst I was
present, and for its safety when absent. The assistant to the leader I
would put entirely out of the question. He has other and most important
duties to perform. I would rate this man wholly independent of him.
DANGER OF COLLISION WITH THE NATIVES.
In reference to what I have already said with regard to the natives, it
was supposed that they were so little to be apprehended, that when I
went on the first occasion into the interior, I applied for a limited
number of men only, under an impression that with a few men I could
carry provisions equal to a consumption of a greater number, and by
this means be enabled to keep the field for a greater length of time.
But I do not think it would be safe to penetrate into the distant
country with fewer than fifteen men, for although, happily, no rupture
has as yet taken place with the natives, yet, there is no security
against their treachery, and it is very certain that a slight cause
might involve an expedition in inextricable difficulty, and oblige the
leader to throw himself on the defensive, when far away from other
resources than those with which he should have provided himself, and
that, perhaps, when navigating a close and intricate river, with all
the dangers and perplexities attendant on such a situation. It is
absolutely necessary to establish nightly guards, not only for the
security of the camp, but of the cattle, and at the same time to have a
force strong enough to maintain an obstinate resistance against any
number of savages, where no mercy is to be expected. It will be borne
in mind, that there is a wide difference between penetrating into a
country in the midst of its population, and landing from ships for the
purpose of communication or traffic. Yet, how few voyages of discovery
have terminated without bloodshed! Boats while landing are covered by
their ships, and have succour within view; but not so parties that go
into unknown tracts. They must depend on their immediate resources and
individual courage alone.
PACK-OXEN, HORSES, WHEEL-CARRIAGES.
With regard to the animals, I should recommend an equal number of
horses as of bullocks; since it has been found that the latter, though
slow, travel better over swampy ground than horses, which, on the other
hand, are preferable for expeditious journeys, to which bullocks would
never be equal. One of the colonial pack-saddles weighs fifty pounds
complete, and is preferable to those sent out from England. This, with
a load of 250 lbs. is sufficient for any animal, since it enables the
men to place a part of their provisions with the general loads. The
difficulty of keeping the backs of the animals free from injury, more
especially where any blemish has before existed, is exceedingly great.
They should undergo an examination twice a-day, that is, in the morning
prior to moving off, and in the afternoon before they are turned out to
feed; and measures should then be taken to ease them as circumstances
require. I never suffered the saddles to be removed from the backs of
the animals under my charge for twenty minutes after the termination of
the journey for the day, in order to guard against the effects of the
sun; and where the least swelling appeared the saddle was altered and
the place dressed. Yet, notwithstanding all this care and attention,
several both of the horses and bullocks were at one time in a sad
condition, during the first journey,--so much so as almost to paralyse
our efforts. It would be advisable that such animals as are entirely
free from blemish should be chosen for the service of expeditions, for,
with proper management they might be kept in order. The anxiety of mind
attendant on a bad state of the animals is really quite embarrassing,
for it not only causes a delay in the movements, but a derangement in
the loads. Other animals are overburdened, and there is no knowing
where the evil will stop.
In addition to the pack-animals, I would recommend the employment of a
dray or cart under any practicable circumstances. It serves to carry
necessary comforts, gives an expedition greater facility for securing
its collections, and is of inconceivable advantage in many other
respects.
ISSUE OF PROVISIONS.
Constant and most earnest attention should be paid to the issue of
provisions, on the discreet management of which so much depends, and
the charge of them should be committed to the second in command. The
most important articles are flour, tea, sugar, and tobacco. All should
be husbanded with extreme care, and weighed from time to time. The
flour is best carried in canvass bags, containing 100 pounds each, and
should at the termination of each day's journey, be regularly piled up
and covered with a tarpaulin. Tea, sugar and tobacco lose considerably
in weight, so that it is necessary to estimate for somewhat more than
the bare supply. With regard to the salt meat, the best mode of
conveying it appears to be in small barrels of equal weight with the
bags of flour. Salt pork is better than beef. It should be deprived of
all bones and be of the very best quality. I have heard spirits
recommended, but I do not approve their use. Tea is much more relished
by the men; indeed they could not do well without it. A small quantity
of spirits would, however, of course be necessary in the event of its
being required.
LIVE STOCK.
Mr. Cornelius O'Brien, an enterprising and long-established settler,
who has pushed his flocks and herds to the banks of the Morumbidgee,
was good enough to present me with eight wethers as I passed his
station. It may be some gratification to Mr. O'Brien to know, that they
contributed very materially to our comforts, and he will, perhaps,
accept my acknowledgements in this place, not only for so liberal a
present to myself, but for his attention and kindness to my men as long
as they remained in his neighbourhood. It was found that the sheep gave
but little additional trouble, requiring only to be penned at night, as
much to secure them from the native dogs as to prevent them from
straying away. They followed the other animals very quietly, and soon
became accustomed to daily movements. They proved a most available
stock; no waste attended their slaughter, and they admitted of a
necessary and wholesome change of fresh food from the general salt
diet, on which the men would otherwise have had to subsist.
The provisions should, if possible, be issued weekly, and their
diminution should be so regulated as to give an equal relief to the
animals.
For general information I have annexed a list of the supplies I took
with me on my first expedition. It may appear long, but the articles
were packed in a small compass, and their value immaterial.
As a precautionary measure I should advise, that one of the pack
animals be kept apart for the purpose of carrying water. Two casks of
equal weight are the best for such a purpose. In long and hot marches,
the men experience great relief from having water at hand.
INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES.
In reference to the natives, I hope sufficient has been said of the
manner of communicating with them to prevent the necessity of a
repetition here. The great point is not to alarm their natural
timidity: to exercise patience in your intercourse with them; to treat
them kindly; and to watch them with suspicion, especially at night.
Never permit the men to steal away from the camp, but keep them as
compact as possible; and at every station so arrange your drays and
provisions that they may serve as a defence in case of your being
attacked.
The natives appeared to me to be indifferent to our presents, in most
cases. Tomahawks, knives, pieces of iron, and different coloured
ribbons for the forehead, were most esteemed by them. They will barter
and exchange their fish for articles, and readily acquire confidence.
I believe I have now touched on all the more important points: on minor
ones no observation I can make will be of use; men must, in many
things, be guided by circumstances.
* * * * *
WHALE BOAT EMPLOYED ON THE SECOND EXPEDITION.
I may here notice that, in my second expedition, as it was anticipated
that I should require adequate provision for water conveyance, at one
stage or other of my journey down the Morumbidgee, I was furnished with
a whale-boat, the dimensions of which are given below. She was built by
Mr. Egan, the master builder of the dock-yard and a native of the
colony, and did great credit to his judgment. She carried two tons and
a half of provisions, independently of a locker, which I appropriated
for the security of the arms, occupying the space between the
after-seat and the stern. She was in the first instance put together
loosely, her planks and timbers marked, and her ring bolts, &c. fitted.
She was then taken to pieces, carefully packed up, and thus conveyed in
plank into the interior, to a distance of four hundred and forty miles,
without injury. She was admirably adapted for the service, and rose as
well as could have been expected over the seas in the lake. It was
evident, however, that she would have been much safer if she had had
another plank, for she was undoubtedly too low. The following were her
dimensions:--
Breadth across 7th timber aft, 5 ft. 1/2 an inch outside.
Across 12th timber, 5 ft. 11 1/4 in.
Across 17th timber forward, 5 ft.
25 ft. 8 in. in length inside.
Curve of the keel No. 1, from the after side of each apron, 3 ft. 3 3/4in.
No. 2, from head to head of the dead wood, 13 1/2 in.
No. 3, from one end of keel to the other inner side, 3 in.
No. 4, round of keel from the toe of each dead wood, 7/8 1/16th.
The timbers were marked, beginning from the stern to the bow on the
starboard side, and from bow to stern on the larboard.
APPENDIX No. I.
LETTER OF INSTRUCTIONS.
By His Excellency Lieutenant General Ralph Darling, Commanding His
Majesty's Forces, Captain-General and Governor-in-Chief of the
Territory of New South Wales, and its dependencies, and Vice Admiral of
the same, &c. &c. &c.
TO CHARLES STURT, ESQ. CAPTAIN IN THE 39TH REGIMENT OF FOOT.
Whereas it has been judged expedient to fit out an expedition for the
purpose of exploring the interior of New Holland, and the present dry
season affords a reasonable prospect of an opportunity of ascertaining
the nature and extent of the large marsh or marshes which stopped the
progress of the late John Oxley Esq, Surveyor General, in following the
courses of the rivers Lachlan and Macquarie in the years 1817 and 1818.
And whereas I repose full confidence in your abilities and zeal for
conducting such an expedition, I do hereby constitute and appoint you
to command and take charge of the expedition now preparing for the
purpose of exploring the interior of the country, and for ascertaining,
if practicable, the nature and extent of the marsh or marshes above
mentioned.
In the prosecution of this service, you will be guided generally by the
following instructions.
1. You will be accompanied on this expedition by Mr. Hamilton Hume,
whose great experience in travelling through the remote parts of the
Colony, cannot fail to be highly useful to you. You will also be
attended by two soldiers and six convicts, of whom one is to understand
the shoeing of horses, one to be a carpenter, one a harness-maker and
three stock-men, and you will be provided with six horses and twelve
bullocks.
2. A small boat has been built here for the use of the expedition, and
for its conveyance, there is provided a light four-wheeled carriage to
be drawn by two bullocks.
The deputy Commissary General has received orders for supplying the
expedition with provisions of the best quality sufficient for six
months' consumption, together with tents, blankets, clothing,
pack-saddles, utensils, instruments, tools, and necessaries of all
kinds of which you are likely to stand in need. Orders are also given
for providing you with arms and ammunition, with rockets for signals,
and an ample supply of simple medicines--You are to consider it an
important duty to attend to the providing of all these supplies, and to
take care that not only every article is of the best quality that can
be procured, but also that no article be wanting with which you may
desire to be provided.
3. Orders are given for forwarding without delay all your provisions,
stores and supplies of every kind to Wellington Valley, at which place,
you, Mr. Hume, and all your men are to rendezvous as soon as possible.
Mr Maxwell, the superintendent, will furnish you with well-trained
bullocks, and afford you all the assistance you may require in
arranging every thing for your departure from that station.
4. After you shall have completed all your arrangements, you are to
lose no time in finally departing from Wellington Valley in prosecution
of the immediate objects of the expedition.
5. You are first to proceed to Mount Harris, where you are to form a
temporary depot, by means of which you will have an opportunity of more
readily communicating with Mr. Maxwell.
6. You are then to endeavour to determine the fate of the Macquarie
River, by tracing it as far as possible beyond the point to which Mr.
Oxley went, and by pushing westward, you are to ascertain if there be
any high lands in that direction, or if the country be, as it is
supposed, an unbroken level and under water. If you should fail in
these objects, you will traverse the plains lying behind our north-west
boundaries, with a view to skirt any waters by which you may have been
checked to the westward; and if you should succeed in skirting them,
you are to explore the country westward and southward as far as
possible, endeavouring to discover the Macquarie beyond the marsh of
Mr. Oxley, and following it to its mouth if at all practicable.
7. There is some reason to believe that the over-flowing of the
Macquarie when visited by Mr. Oxley, was occasioned by heavy rains
falling in the mountains to the eastward, and that as you are to visit
the same spot at a different season of the year, you may escape such
embarrassment; but although you should get beyond the point at which
Mr. Oxley stopped, it would not be prudent to risk your own health or
that of your men, by continuing long in a swampy country. Therefore it
may be advisable for you in the first instance to leave the greater
part of your men, bullocks, and baggage, at Mount Harris, and if you
should see a probability of your being able to cross into the interior,
you will then return to Mount Harris for such additional supplies as
you may judge necessary. You can there communicate with Mr. Maxwell
respecting any ulterior arrangements which you may be desirous of
making.
8. The success of the expedition is so desirable an object, that I
cannot too strongly impress upon you the importance of perseverance in
endeavouring to skirt any waters or marshes which may check your course
as long as you have provisions sufficient for your return; but you must
be cautious not to proceed a single day's journey further than where
you find that your provisions will be barely sufficient to enable you
to reach the nearest place at which you can depend upon getting
supplies.
9. If after every endeavour you should find it totally impracticable to
get to the westward, you are still to proceed northward, keeping as
westerly a direction as possible; and when the state of your provisions
will oblige you to retreat, you will be guided by your latitude, as to
the place to which you are to make the best of your way, but you are
not to make for any place on the coast, if Wellington valley should
still be nearer.
10. You must be aware that the success of the expedition will greatly
depend upon the time for which your provisions will hold out, and
therefore you will see the great importance of observing every possible
economy in the expenditure of provisions, and preventing waste of every
kind.
11. You are to keep a detailed account of your proceedings in a
journal, in which all observations and occurrences of every kind, with
all their circumstances, however minute, are to be carefully noted
down. You are to be particular in describing the general face of all
the country through which you pass, the direction and shape of the
mountains, whether detached or in ranges, together with the bearings
and estimated distances of the several mountains, hills, or eminences
from each other. You are likewise to note the nature of the climate, as
to heat, cold, moisture, winds, rains, &c., and to keep a register of
the temperature from Fahrenheit's thermometer, as observed at two or
three periods of each day. The rivers, with their several branches,
their direction, velocity, breadth, and depth, are carefully to be
noted. It is further expected that you will, as far as may be in your
power, attend to the animal, vegetable, and mineral productions of the
country, noting down every thing that may occur to you, and preserving
specimens as far as your means will admit, especially some of all the
ripe seeds which you may discover; when the preservation of specimens
is impossible, drawings or detailed accounts of them, are very
desirable.
12. You will note the description of the several people whom you may
meet, the extent of the population, their means of subsistence, their
genius and disposition, the nature of their amusements, their diseases
and remedies, their objects of worship, religious ceremonies, and a
vocabulary of their language.
Lastly. On your return from your journey, you are to cause all the
journals or other written documents belonging to, and curiosities
collected by the several individuals composing the expedition, to be
carefully sealed up with your own seal and kept in that state until you
shall have made your report to me in writing of the result of the
expedition.
Given at Sydney, this eighteenth day of November, 1828. By Command of
His Excellency the Governor, ALEXANDER M'LEAY.
APPENDIX No. II.
LIST OF STORES SUPPLIED FOR THE EXPEDITION.
List of Articles delivered from His Majesty's Stores, in charge of D.
A. C. Goodsir, to Captain Sturt, viz.--
1 Hack saddle. 9 Harness casks.
1 Bridle. 23 Canvas bags.
2 Tents. 4 Tin cases.
14 Pack saddles. 16 Padlocks.
14 Pair hobbles. 6 Tarpaulens.
24 Sets horse shoes. 10 Haversacks.
2000 Horse nails. 113 Fathom one-inch rope.
113 Fathoms 1 1/2 inch rope. 1 Boat compass.
1 Hammer, (Blacksmith's) 1 Telescope.
1 Paring knife. 1 Spare glass for ditto.
2 Chipping do. 1 Tin case (for charts.)
2 Rasps. 100 Fish-hooks, (large.)
1 Pair pincers. 12 Fishing-lines.
1 Cutter. 10 Knives.
2lb. Pack thread. 10 Forks.
24 Needles. 10 Spoons.
1/4lb. Bristles. 2 Frying-pans.
7lbs. Leather. 2 Tinder-boxes.
1/2lb. Thread. 1 Tea-kettle, (tin.)
1 Pair of steelyards. 10 Tin dishes.
10 Tin pots. 8 Jackets.
1 Flour seive. 8 Duck frocks.
2 Felling-axes. 8 Shirts.
4 Tomahawks. 16 Trousers.
2 Hammers. 24 Pair shoes.
1 Hand-saw. 16 Blankets.
3 Bill-hooks. 16 Pair stockings.
3 Awls. 2 Bullock collars.
3 Broad hoes. 2 Do. back-bands and pipes.
4 Razors. 2 Leading cruppers.
4 Brushes. 1 Boat with sail and oars.
4 Combs. 1 Do. carriage.
3 Iron pots, (camp kettles.) 1 Canvass boat-cover.
1 Pair scissors. 3 Water breaker.
COMMISSARIAT OFFICE, SYDNEY, NOV. 10TH, 1828.
P.S.--l Tarpaulin.
Large Fish-hook.
1 Tin tea-kettle.
1 Camp kettle.
Pitch and oil.
Hemp or twine.
APPENDIX No. III.
SHEEP-FARMING RETURNS, SHOWING THE INCREASE IN FOUR YEARS, from two
Breeding Flocks, consisting of 670 Ewes in Lamb.
(A.)--1st JUNE, 1828.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flocks. Breeding Ewes. Lambs. Total. Remarks.
2 yrs. old. 3 yrs. old. Male.-Female.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lambs.
No. 1 330 148 149 627 Deaths 6. Incr.297
No. 2 330 154 154 638 4 308
---- -- ---
* 1265 10 605
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
* The increase throughout these returns is calculated at from 270 to 290
Lambs, to 300 Ewes, which is the usual average in N.S.W.
ABSTRACT.
Purchased two Flocks of Ewes, at 84s.............................670 Ewes.
Increase of Lambs.......................................... 605
Casual Deaths............................................... 10
595
---
Total as per Return............................................ 1265
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
(B.)--1st JUNE, 1829.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flocks.|Breeding|Maiden|Wethers.|Rams.| Lambs. |Total.| Remarks.
| Ewes. | Ewes.| |Male. Female.|
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. Lambs.
1 3-yr. 327 154 154 635 Deaths 3 Incr.308
2 4-yr. 326 155 155 636 4 310
3 1-yr. 302 302 1 ---
4 1-yr. 302 18 320 -- 618
---- 8
1893
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
ABSTRACT.
Return (A) Total...............................................1265
Increase by Lambing....................................618
Ditto Rams purchased....................................18
---
636
Casual Deaths......................................... 8 628
----
Total as per return............................................1893
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
(C.)--1st JUNE, 1830.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flocks.|Breeding|Maiden|Wethers.|Rams.| Lambs. |Total.| Remarks.
| Ewes. | Ewes.| |Male. Female.|
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. Lambs.
1 2-yr. 296 133 154 562 Deaths 6 Incr.266
2 4-yr. 325 150 155 625 2 300
3 5-yr. 326 160 646 320
4 2-yr. 302 27 329 ---
5 1-yr. 309 309 886
6 1-yr. 309 309 ---
---- 3 Rams died
2780 12 ditto purchased
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
ABSTRACT.
Return (B) Total............................................ 1893
Increase by Lambing....................................886
Ditto Rams purchased....................................12
---
898
Deaths............................................... 11 887
----
Total as per return......................................... 2780
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
(D.)--1st JUNE, 1831.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flocks.|Breeding|Maiden|Wethers.|Rams.| Lambs. |Total.| Remarks.
| Ewes. | Ewes.| |Male. Female.|
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. Lambs.
1 2-yr. 304 136 136 576 Deaths 5 Incr.272
2 3-yr. 293 135 136 564 3 271
3 5-yr. 324 156 156 636 1 312
4 6-yr. 320 156 156 632 2 312
Killed 4 ---
5 3-yr. 300 300 Deaths 2 1167
6 2-yr. 308 308 1
7 1-yr 443 443
8 1-yr 442 442 1
9 40 40 5
---- --
3941 20
Purchased 12
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
ABSTRACT.
Return (C) Total............................................ 2780
Increase by Lambing...................................1167
Ditto Rams purchased....................................18
---
1185
Casual deaths 20 ...Killed for use 4 ................. 24 1161
----
Total as per return.......................................... 3941
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
(E.)--1st JUNE, 1832.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flocks.|Breeding|Maiden|Wethers.|Rams.| Lambs. |Total.| Remarks.
| Ewes. | Ewes.| |Male. Female.|
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. Lambs.
1 2-yr. 344 154 154 652 Deaths 6 Incr.308
2 3-yr. 344 162 161 667 4 323
4 3-yr. 342 164 165 671 3 329
5 6-yr. 320 155 155 630 2 310
6 7-yr. 300 145 145 590 2 290
7 4-yr. 300 300 ----
1560
8 3-yr 302 302 2
9 2-yr 440 440 1
10 1-yr 583 583
11 1-yr 584 584
12 45 45 5 Purch. 10
---- ---- ---- --- --- --- ----
1650 584 1625 45 780 780 5464
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
ABSTRACT.
Return (D) Total............................................ 3941
Increase by Lambing...................................1560
Ditto Rams purchased....................................10
---
1570
Decrease by casual death .............................. 25
Decrease by slaughter for use ......................... 22
---
1523
----
Grand Total .............................. 5464 as above
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEMORANDUM,--The deaths have been calculated at the lowest rate under the
best management. It may be safer to assume a rate of four or five per
cent. per annum.
Account of Expenditure and Income upon Sheep Stock in Australia,
appended to Returns A. B. C. D. and E.
1st YEAR, (RETURN A.) JUNE, 1829.
INCOME.
By 11265 fleeces, average weight 2 1/4 lbs. 284 lbs
wool at 1s. 6d. per lb. 213 9 0
EXPENDITURE.
To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0
To 1 Watchman at 20 20 0 O PROFIT.
To Hurdles, &c. 10 0 0
-------- 90 0 0
-------- 123 9 0
2nd YEAR, (B.) JUNE, 1830.
INCOME.
By 1893 fleeces, at 2 1/4 lbs. 4259lbs. wool at
1s. 6d. 319 8 6
EXPENDITURE.
To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0
To 2 Ditto 20 40 0 0
To 1 Watchman 20 0 0
To Hurdles &c. 5 0 0
---------
125 0 0
To 18 Rams at 10 pounds* 180 0 0
---------
305 0 0
---------
14 8 6
*The price of rams will probably fall to 5 pounds
3rd YEAR, (C.) JUNE, 1831.
INCOME.
By 2780 fleeces, at 2 1/4 lbs. 6255lbs. wool at
1s. 6d. 469 2 6
EXPENDITURE.
To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0
To 2 Ditto 25 25 0 0
To 3 Ditto 20 60 0 0
To 2 Watchman 20 40 0 0
To Hurdles &c. 10 0 0
---------
195 0 0
To 12 Rams at 10 pounds 120 0 0
---------
315 0 0
---------
154 2 6
4th YEAR, (D.) JUNE, 1832.
INCOME.
By 3941 fleeces, at 2 1/4 lbs. 8867lbs. wool at
1s. 6d. 665 0 0
EXPENDITURE.
To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0
To 2 Ditto 25 50 0 0
To 4 Ditto 20 80 0 0
To 3 Watchman &c. 60 0 0
(one to take charge of rams)
To Hurdles &c. 10 0 0
---------
260 0 0
To 18 Rams at 10 pounds 180 0 0
---------
440 0 0
---------
225 0 0
5th YEAR, (E.) JUNE, 1833.*
INCOME.
By 5464 fleeces, at 2 1/4 lbs. 12,294 lbs. wool at
1s. 6d. 922 0 0
EXPENDITURE.
To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0
To 3 Ditto 25 75 0 0
To 5 Ditto 20 100 0 0
To 3 Watchman 20 60 0 0
To Hurdles &c. 20 0 0
---------
315 0 0
To 10 Rams at 10 pounds 100 0 0
---------
415 0 0
---------
507 0 0
----------
Net profit by sales of wool in 5 years 1024 0 0
1024 0 0 divided by 5 gives 204 8 0 for annual interest on the
original capital of 2814 0 0, (about 7 1/4 percent per annum)
in addition to the accumulation of capital itself, shown by the
valuation of stock.
*These accounts are a year in advance of the sheep returns, in order to
bring them to the time at which the wool would be sold.
VALUATION OF SHEEP, JUNE, 1832----(RETURN E.)
1614 Ewes from 1 to 4 years old at 3 pounds each 4842 0 O
620 Do. 4 to 7 years old 2 1240 0 0
780 Female Lambs 2 1560 0 0
2405 Wethers and Male Lambs 15s. 1803 0 0
45 Rams (original cost, 450l.) 400 0 0
----------
9845 0 0
Note.--About 500 pounds would be added to the Income on the fifth year,
by the sale of wethers of 3 and 4 years old.
The cost of rams ought, strictly speaking, to be added to capital, and
not deducted from Income; but these returns were made out in their
present form at the request of a gentleman proceeding to the Colony
with a limited capital, and who wished to know how much he might safely
invest in sheep.
APPENDIX No. IV.
LIST OF GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, COLLECTED IN THE DISTANT INTERIOR DURING
THE FIRST EXPEDITION, WITH THEIR LOCALITIES AND THEIR RELATIVE
DISTANCES FROM EACH OTHER.
It may be necessary to observe that the height of the Cataract of the
Macquarie River above the sea, was ascertained by barometrical
admeasurement to be 650 feet. The country subsequently traversed is
considerably lower. The specimens refer only to the geological
formation of the distant interior.
Schorl Rock.--Colour blueish grey, fine grained, extremely hard.
Composed of Tourmaline and Quartz. Forms the bed of the Macquarie at
the Cataract, 75 miles to the N.W. of Wellington Valley.
Decomposed Mica Slate.--Colour white; yields to the knife; adheres
strongly to the tongue.
Decomposed Feldspar.--Colour pale rose-pink; very fine grained; easily
scratched with the knife; adheres strongly to the tongue.
Both specimens immediately succeed the Schorl rock at the Cataract, in
large smooth-sided masses.
This formation may be said to terminate the rocks connected with the
dividing ranges, since it is the last that occurs at their western base.
A little below the Cataract, the county undergoes a remarkable change,
and becomes extremely depressed.
Porphyry with Feldspar.--Colour dull red, with white spots, or grey
with red spots; very hard, compact, sonorous, magnetic. [See pp. 27 and
115.] Composition of Mount Harris, a hill called by Mr. Oxley, elevated
about 170 feet above the level of the plains. It lies 65 miles to the
N.N.W. of the Cataract, and is about 16 miles distant from the first of
the marshes of the Macquarie.
Porphyry with Feldspar.--Colour grey with red spots, similar to the
last. Was not observed to affect the needle. Formation of Mount Foster.
Mount Foster is more than 200 feet in height, and lies about 5 miles to
the N.N.W. of Mount Harris. From the summit of both, Arbuthnot's range
is visible, bearing nearly due east, distant 70 miles. [See page 28.]
Quartz Rock varieties--Slaty Quartz varieties.--Composition of the
first elevations to the Westward of the marshes of the Macquarie,
called New Year's Range, a group of five hills. The loftiest about 200
feet in elevation; distant about 80 miles to the N.W. of Mount Harris.
Granite.--Colour red, coarse-grained. Composed of Quartz, Feldspar, and
Mica.
Granite, Porphyritic.--Colour light red. Both occurring in the bed of
New Year's Creek, traversing it obliquely, and are visible for a few
hundred yards only. This granite occurs about 16 miles from the Range
in a N. by E. direction.
Old Red Sandstone.--Composition of Oxley's Table Land, 500 feet above
the level of the plains. It is broken into two hills, that appear to
have been separated by some convulsion. [See page 81.] It bears N.W. by
W. from New Year's Range, distant 50 miles.
Old Red Sandstone.--Composition of D'Urban's group. The highest
elevation ascended during the expedition, being nearly 600 feet above
the level of the plain in which it rises. It lies to the S.S.W. of
Oxley's Table Land, distant 40 miles, and the rock of which it is
composed is much harder and closer.
Breccia.--Colour pale yellow, silicious cement. Composition of some
trifling elevations to the North of New-Year's range, with which it is
doubtful whether they are connected.
Crystallized Sulphate of Lime.--Found imbedded in the alluvial soil
forming the banks of the Darling river. Occurring in a regular vein.
Soft, yielding to the nail; not acted on by acids.--See Plate.
Breccia.--Pale ochre colour, silicious cement, extremely hard.
Cellular, and sharp edges to the fractured pebbles. Has apparently
undergone fusion. Occurs in the bed of the Darling in one place only.
Sandstone Varieties.--Colour dull red and muddy white; appears like
burnt bricks; light, easily frangible; adheres to the tongue; occurs in
large masses in the bed of the Darling; probably in connection with the
rock-salt of the neighbourhood, which, from the number of brine springs
discovered feeding the river, must necessarily exist.
Variety of the same description of rock.
Jasper and Quartz.--Showing itself above the surface of a plain, from
which D'Urban's group bore S. 40 E. distant 33 miles.
It is a remarkable fact, that not a pebble or a stone was picked up
during the progress of the expedition, on any one of the plains; and
that after it again left Mount Harris for the Castlereagh, the only
rock-formation discovered was a small Freestone tract near the Darling
river. There was not a pebble of any kind either in the bed of the
Castlereagh, or in the creeks falling into it.
APPENDIX No. V.
OFFICIAL REPORTS TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.
* * * * *
GOVERNMENT ORDER
COLONIAL SECRETARY'S OFFICE, 23RD JANUARY, 1829.
His Excellency the Governor has been pleased to order, that the
following communication, dated the 25th of December last, from Captain
Sturt, of the 39th Regiment, who is employed in an exploring expedition
into the interior of the country, be published for general information.
By his Excellency's Command,
ALEXANDER M'LEAY.
* * * * *
WESTERN MARSHES, 25TH DECEMBER, 1828.
SIR,--I do myself the honor to forward, for the Governor's perusal, a
copy of my journal up to the date of my arrival at Mount Harris. I
should not have directed the messenger to return so soon, had I not
subsequently advanced to Mount Foster, and surveyed the country from
that eminence. I could distinctly see Arbuthnot's Range to the
eastward. From that point the horizon appeared to me unbroken, but the
country to the northward and westward seemed to favour an attempt to
penetrate into it. I did not observe any sheet of water, and the course
of the Macquarie was lost in the woodlands below.
Mr. Hume ascended the hill at sun-rise, and thought he could see
mountains to the north east, but at such a distance as to make it quite
a matter of uncertainty. Agreeing, however, in the prudence of an
immediate descent, we left our encampment on the morning of the 23rd,
under Mount Foster, to which we had removed from Mount Harris, and
pursued a north-north-west course to the spot on which we rest at
present. We passed some fine meadow land near the river, and were
obliged to keep wide of it in consequence of fissures in the ground.
Traversing a large and blasted plain, on which the sun's rays fell with
intense heat, and on which there was but little vegetation, we skirted
the first great morass, and made the river immediately beyond it. It is
of very considerable extent, the channel of the river passing through
it. We are encompassed on every side by high reeds, which exist in the
woods as well as in the plains. Mr. Hume and myself rode forward
yesterday through the second morass, and made the river on slightly
elevated ground, at a distance of about five miles; the country beyond
appeared to favour our object, and we, to-morrow, proceed with the
party to the north-west. The river seems to bend to the north-east; but
in this level country it is impossible to speak with certainty, or to
give any decided opinion of the nature of it, beyond the flats on which
we are travelling. The reeds to the north-east and northward extend
over a circumference of fifty miles; but if Mr. Hume really saw
mountains or rising ground in the former point, the apparent course of
the Macquarie is at once accounted for. The country, however, seems to
dip to the north, though generally speaking it is level, and I am
inclined to think that the state of the atmosphere caused a deception
in this appearance.
I regret to add, that the effects of the sun on the plain over which we
passed on the 23rd produced a return of inflammation in the eyes of the
men, I have named in my journals, and caused the same in the eyes of
several others of my party. I halted, therefore, to expedite their
recovery. They are doing well now, and we can proceed in the cool of
the morning without any fear of their receiving injury by it. One of
the men, who were to return to Wellington Valley, was attacked slightly
with dysentery, but the medicines I gave him carried it off in the
course of a day or two. I have taken every precaution with regard to
the health of the men, in preparing them for the country into which
they are going; and I have to request that you will inform the governor
that the conduct of the whole party merits my approbation, and that I
have no fault to find. The men from Sydney are not so sharp as those
from Wellington Valley, but are equally well disposed. The animals,
both horses and bullocks, are in good order, and I find the two
soldiers of infinite service to me. The boat has received some damage
from exposure to intense heat, but is otherwise uninjured. We still
retain the carriage and have every prospect of dragging it on with us.
His Excellency, having been good enough to order a fresh supply of
provisions to Wellington Valley, I have to beg they may be forwarded to
Mount Harris, and that the person in charge thereof be instructed to
remain at that station for one month. We shall, during the interval,
have examined the country to the north-west; and, in case we are forced
back, shall require a supply to enable us to proceed to the northward,
in furtherance of the views I have already had the honor to submit for
the Governor's approval.
I have the honor to be, Sir,
Your most obedient and humble Servant,
CHARLES STURT,
Captain, 39th Regt.
THE HONOURABLE THE COLONIAL SECRETARY
* * * * *
GOVERNMENT ORDER.
COLONIAL SECRETARY'S OFFICE, 6TH APRIL, 1829.
His Excellency the Governor is pleased to direct that the following
interesting Report which has been received from Captain Sturt, 39th
Regiment, who has been employed for some months past, (as will be seen
on reference to the Government Order, No. 4, published with Captain
Sturt's First Report in the Sydney Gazette, of the 24th of January
last) in exploring the interior, be communicated for the information of
the public.
It appears that the river Macquarie ceases to exist near the spot where
the expedition under the late Mr. Oxley terminated, which, from the
state of country at the time, being then flooded, could not be
ascertained; and that another river of no inconsiderable magnitude, fed
by salt springs, was discovered by Captain Sturt on the 2nd February
last, about 100 miles to the westward of the Macquarie, running to the
southward and westward.
By His Excellency's Command,
ALEXANDER M'LEAY.
* * * * *
MOUNT HARRIS, 4TH MARCH, 1829.
SIR,--I do myself the honor to acquaint you, for the information of His
Excellency the Governor, that I returned to this eminence on Monday,
the 23rd ult. having been driven from the interior, in consequence of
the extreme drought which prevails there.
I am to state, in reference to my former communication, that agreeably
to what I then reported, I moved, on the 26th December last, lower down
the plains of the Macquarie, but encountered a barrier of reeds, formed
by the marshes of that river, through which we in vain endeavoured to
force our way. I was in consequence obliged to make the nearest part of
the river to my left, and to take such measures as the nature of my
situation required. Here, for the first time, I set the boat afloat,
deeming it essential to trace the river, as I could not move upon its
banks, and wishing also to ascertain where it again issued from the
marshes, I requested Mr. Hume to proceed northerly, with a view to
skirt them, and to descend westerly, wherever he saw an open space. He
was fortunate enough to strike upon the channel about twelve miles
north of our position, but was obstructed in his further progress by
another marsh, in consequence of which he returned to the camp the next
day; in the mean time, I had taken the boat, and proceeded down the
Macquarie, my way being at first considerably obstructed by fallen
timber: clearing this obstacle, however, I got into a deeper channel,
with fine broad reaches, and a depth of from twelve to fifteen feet
water. I had a short time previously cleared all woods and trees, and
was now in the midst of reeds of great height. After proceeding onwards
for about eight miles from the place whence I started, my course was
suddenly and unexpectedly checked; I saw reeds before me, and expected
I was about to turn an angle of the river, but I found that I had got
to the end of the channel, and that the river itself had ceased to
exist. Confounded at such a termination to a stream, whose appearance
justified the expectation that it would have led me through the heart
of the marsh to join Mr. Hume, I commenced a most minute examination of
the place, and discovered two creeks, if they deserve the name,
branching, the one to the north-west, and the other to the north-east;
after tracing the former a short distance, I reached its termination,
and in order to assure myself that such was the case, I walked round
the head of it by pushing through the reeds; it being then too dark to
continue where I was, I returned to a place on the river, at which I
had rested during a shower, and slept there. In the morning I again
went to the spot to examine the north-eastern branch, when I was
equally disappointed. I then examined the space between the two creeks,
opposite to the main channel of the river, and where the bank receives
the force of the current. Here I saw water in the reeds, but it was
scarcely ankle deep, and was running off to the north-west quicker than
the waters of the river, which had almost an imperceptible motion, I
was therefore at once convinced that it was not permanent, but had
lodged there in the night, during which much rain had fallen. I next
pushed my way through the reeds into the marsh, and at length clearly
perceived that the waters which were perfectly sweet, after running
several courses, flowed off to the north, towards which point there was
an apparent declination or dip. Finding it impossible to proceed
further, I regained the boat, and thence returned to the camp, under a
conviction that I had reached the very spot, at which Mr. Oxley lost
the channel of the river in 1818.
The next day I moved to the place where Mr. Hume had struck upon the
channel of the river, but was again doubtful in what direction to
proceed.
The marsh, at the commencement of which we now found ourselves, being
the third from Mount Foster, but the second great one, seemed to extend
beyond us to the north for many miles, but varying in breadth. In the
evening I went in the boat up the channel, and found it at first, deep
and sullen, as that of the river above. It soon however, narrowed, and
the weeds formed over its surface, so that I abandoned the boat and
walked along a path up it. I had not gone far when the channel divided;
two smaller channels came, the one from the southern, and the other
from the western parts of the marsh into it. There was an evident
declination where they were, and it was at their junction the river
again rallied and formed. On my return to the camp, Mr. Hume and I went
down the river, but found that about a mile it lost itself, and spread
its waters ever the extensive marsh before it.
In this extremity, I knew not what movement to make, as Mr. Hume had
been checked in his progress north. I therefore determined to ascertain
the nature of the country to the eastward and to the westward, that I
might move accordingly; I proposed to Mr. Hume, to take a week's
provisions, with two attendants, and go to the north-east, in order
again to turn the marsh, but with the expectation that the angle formed
by the junction of the Castlereagh with the Macquarie would arrest its
progress, as the last was fast approaching the former.
I myself determined to cross the river, and to skirt the marshes on the
left, and in case they turned off to the north east, as they appeared
to do, it was my intention to pursue a N.W. course into the interior,
to learn the nature of it. With these views I left the camp on the 31st
of December, and did not return until the 5th of January. Having found
early in my journey, from the change of soil and of timber, that I was
leaving the neighbourhood of the Macquarie, I followed a N.W. course,
from a more northerly one, and struck at once across the country, under
an impression that Mr. Hume would have made the river again long before
my return. I found, after travelling between twenty and thirty miles,
the country began to rise; and at the end of my journey, I made a hill
of considerable elevation, from the summit of which I had a view of
other high lands; one to the S.W. being a very fine mountain. As I had
not found any water excepting in two creeks, which I had left far
behind me, and as I had got on a soil which appeared incapable of
holding it, I made this the termination of my journey, having exceeded
100 miles in distance from the camp, on my return to which I found Mr.
Hume still absent. When he joined, he stated to me, that not making the
Castlereagh as soon as he expected, he had bent down westerly for the
Macquarie, and that he ended his journey at some gentle hills he had
made; so that it appeared we must either have crossed each other's line
of route, or that they were very near, and that want of length must
alone have prevented them from crossing; but as such all assumption led
to the conclusion that the Macquarie no longer existed, I determined to
pursue a middle course round the swamps, to ascertain the point; as in
case the river had ended, a westerly course was the one which my
instructions directed me to pursue.
In the immediate neighbourhood of the marshes we were obliged to sink
wells for water, and it was thus early that we began to feel the want
of a regular supply.
Having made a creek about four miles from our position by cutting
through the reeds where there was a narrow space, we pursued a westerly
course over a plain, having every appearance of frequent inundation,
and for four or five days held nearly the same direction; in the course
of which we crossed both our tracks on the excursions we had made,
which had intersected each other in a dense oak brush; thus renewing
the few doubts, or rather the doubt we had as to the fate of the
Macquarie, whose course we had been sent to trace. Indeed, had I not
felt convinced that that river had ceased, I should not have moved
westward without further examination, but we had passed through a very
narrow part of the marshes, and round the greater part of them, and had
not seen any hollow that could by any possible exaggeration be
construed into or mistaken for the channel of a river.
It appears, then, that the Macquarie, flowing as it does for so many
miles, through a bed, and not a declining country, and having little
water in it, except in times of flood, loses its impetus long ere it
reaches the formidable barrier that opposes its progress northwards;
the soil in which the reeds grow being a stiff clay. Its waters
consequently spread, until a slight declivity giving them fresh
impulse, they form a channel again, but soon gaining a level, they lose
their force and their motion together, and spread not only over the
second great marsh, but over a vast extent of the surrounding country,
the breadth of ground thus subject to inundation being more than twenty
miles, and its length considerably greater; around this space there is
a gentle rise which confines the waters, while small hollows in various
directions lead them out of the marshes over the adjacent plains, on
which they eventually subside. On my return from the interior, I
examined those parts round which I had not been, with particular
attention, partly in company with Mr. Hume, and this statement was
confirmed by what we saw. Thus, at a distance of about twenty-five
miles from Mount Foster to the N.N.W. the river Macquarie ceases to
exist, in any shape as a river, and at a distance of between fifty and
sixty, the marshes terminate, though the country subject to inundation
from the river is of a very considerable extent, as shown by the
withered bulrushes, wet reeds, and shells, that are scattered over its
surface.
Having executed the first part of the instructions with which I had
been honoured, I determined on pursuing a west, or north-west course
into the interior, to ascertain the nature of it, in fulfilment of the
second, but in doing this I was obliged to follow creeks, and even on
their banks had to carry a supply of water, so uncertain was it that we
should meet with any at the termination of our day's journey, and that
what we did find would be fit to drink. Our course led us over plains
immediately bordering the lower lands of the Macquarie, alternating
with swamp oak, acacia pendula, pine, box, eucalyptus, and many other
trees of minor growth, the soil being inclined to a red loam, while the
plains were generally covered with a black scrub, though in some places
they had good grass upon them. We crossed two creeks before we made the
hills Mr. Hume had ascended, and which he called New Year's Range.
Around these hills the country appeared better--they are gentle,
picturesque elevations, and are for the most part, covered with
verdure, and have, I fancy, a whinstone base, the rock of which they
are composed being of various substances. I place New Year's Range in
lat. 30 degrees 21 minutes, long. 146 degrees 3 minutes 30 seconds. Our
course next lying north-west along a creek, led us to within twenty
miles of the hill that had terminated my excursion, and as I hoped that
a more leisurely survey of the country from its summit would open
something favourable to our view, I struck over for it, though
eventually obliged to return. From it Mr. Hume and I rode to the S.W.
mountain, a distance of about forty miles, without crossing a brook or
a creek, our way leading through dense acacia brushes, and for the most
part over a desert. We saw high lands from this mountain, which exceeds
1,300 feet in elevation, and is of sandstone formation, and thickly
covered with stunted pine, in eight different points--the bearings of
which are as follows:--
Oxley's Table Land, N. 40 E., distant 40 miles.
Kengall Hill, due E. very distant.
Conical Hill, S. 60 E.
Highland, S.E. distance 30 miles.
Highland, S. 30 E. distance 25 miles.
Long Range, S. 16 E. distance 60 miles.
Long Range, S. 72 W. distance 60 miles.
Distant Range, S. 25 W. supposed.
It was in vain, however, that we looked for water. The country to the
north-west, was low and unbroken, and alternated with wood and plain.
The country from New Year's Range to the hill I had made, and which I
called Oxley's Table Land, had been very fair, with good soil in many
places, but with a total want of water, except in the creeks, wherein
the supply was both bad and uncertain; on our second day's journey from
the former, we came to the creek on which we were moving, where it had
a coarse granite bottom. The country around it improved very much in
appearance, and there was abundance of good grass on the surface of it,
in spite of the drought. On the right of this creek, a large plain
stretches parallel to it for many miles, varying in quality of soil.
Near Oxley's Table Land, we passed over open forest, the prevailing
timber of which was box. I have placed Oxley's Table Land in latitude
29 degrees 57 minutes 30 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 43 minutes 30
seconds.
Finding it impracticable to move westward from the hill I again
descended on the creek, whose general course was to the north-west, in
which direction we at length struck upon a river whose appearance
raised our most sanguine expectations. It flowed round an angle from
the north-east to the north-west, and extended in longitude five
reaches as far as we could see. At that place it was about sixty yards
broad, with banks of from thirty to forty feet high, and it had
numerous wild fowl and many pelicans on its bosom, and seemed to be
full of fish, while the paths of the natives on both sides, like
well-trodden roads, showed how numerous they were about it. On tasting
its waters, however, we found them perfectly salt, and useless to us,
and as our animals had been without water the night before, this
circumstance distressed us much; our first day's journey led us past
between sixty and seventy huts in one place, and on our second we fell
in with a numerous tribe of natives, having previously seen some
between two creeks before we made New-Year's Range. At some places the
water proved less salt than at others; our animals drank of it
sparingly: we found two small fresh-water holes, which served us as we
passed. After tracing the river for a considerable distance, we came on
brine springs in the bed of it, the banks having been encrusted with
salt from the first; and as the difficulty of getting fresh water was
so great, I here foresaw an end to our wanderings. And as I was
resolved not to involve my party in greater distress, I halted it, on
overtaking the animals, and the next morning turned back to the nearest
fresh-water, at a distance of eighteen miles from us. Unwilling,
however, to give up our pursuit, Mr. Hume and I started with two men on
horseback, to trace the river as far as we could, and to ascertain what
course it took; in the hopes also that we should fall on some creek, or
get a more certain supply of drinkable water. We went a distance to
which the bullocks could not have been brought, and then got on a red
sandy soil, which at once destroyed our hopes; and on tasting the river
water we found it salter than ever, our supply being diminished to two
pints. Our animals being weak and purged, and having proceeded at least
forty miles from the camp, I thought it best to yield to circumstances,
and to return, though I trust I shall be believed when I add, it was
with extreme reluctance I did so; and had I followed the wishes of my
party, should still have continued onwards. Making a part of the river
where we had slept, we stayed to refresh, and in consequence of the
heat of the weather were obliged to drink the water in it, which made
us sick. While here, a tribe of blacks came to us and behaved
remarkably well. At night we slept on a plain without water, and the
next day we regained the camp, which had been visited by the natives
during our absence.
We found the river held a south-west course, and appeared to be making
for the central space between a high land, which I called Dunlop's
Range, at Mr. Hume's request, and a lofty range to the westward. It
still continued its important appearance, having gained in breadth and
in the height of its banks, while there were hundreds of pelicans and
wild-fowl on it. Flowing through a level country with such a channel,
it may be presumed that this river ultimately assumes either a greater
character, or that it adds considerably to the importance of some other
stream. It had a clay bottom, generally speaking, in many places
semi-indurated and fast forming into sandstone, while there was
crystallized sulphate of lime running in veins through the soil which
composed the bank.
This river differs from most in the colony, in having a belt of barren
land of from a quarter of a mile to two miles in breadth in its
immediate neighbourhood, and which is subject to overflow. This belt
runs to the inland plains, where a small elevation checks the further
progress of the flood. There is magnificent blue gum on both sides the
river, but the right bank is evidently the most fertile, and I am
mistaken greatly if there is not a beautiful country north of it.
Of the country over which we have passed, it is impossible for me to
have formed a correct opinion under its present melancholy
circumstances. It has borne the appearance of barrenness, where in even
moderate rain, it might have shown very differently, though no doubt we
passed over much of both good and bad land; our animals on the whole,
have thrived on the food they have had, which would argue favourably
for the herbage. Generally speaking, I fear the timber is bad--the
rough-gum may be used for knees, and such purposes, and we may have
seen wood for the wheelwright and cabinet-maker, specimens of which I
have procured, but none for general or household purposes.
The creeks we have traced are different in character from those in the
settled districts, inasmuch as that, like the river, they have a belt
of barren land near then and but little grass--they have all of them
been numerously frequented by the natives, as appeared from the number
of muscle-shells on their banks, but now having scarcely any water in
them, the fish having either been taken, or are dead, and the tribes
gone elsewhere for food, while the badness of the river water has
introduced a cutaneous disease among the natives of that district,
which is fast carrying them off. Our intercourse with these people was
incessant from the time we first met them, and on all occasions they
behaved remarkably well, nor could we have seen less than than two
hundred and fifty of them.
Our return is to be attributable to the want of water alone, and it is
impossible for me to describe the effects of the drought on animal as
well as vegetable nature. The natives are wandering in the desert, and
it is melancholy to reflect on the necessity which obliges them to
drink the stinking and loathsome water they do--birds sit gasping in
the trees and are quite thin--the wild dog prowls about in the day-time
unable to avoid us, and is as lean as he can be in a living state,
while minor vegetation is dead, and the very trees are drooping. I have
noticed all these things in my Journal I shall have the honour of
submitting through you, for the Governor's perusal and information, on
my return. Finally, I fear our expedition will not pave the way to any
ultimate benefit; although it has been the means by which two very
doubtful questions,--the course of the Macquarie, and the nature of the
interior, have been solved; for it is beyond doubt, that the interior
for 250 miles beyond its former known limits to the W.N.W., so far from
being a shoal sea, has been ascertained not only to have considerable
elevations upon it, but is in itself a table land to all intents and
purposes, and has scarcely water on its surface to support its
inhabitants.
I beg you will inform His Excellency the Governor, that I have on all
occasions received the most ready and valuable assistance from Mr.
Hume. His intimate acquaintance with the manners and customs of the
natives, enabled him to enter into intercourse with them, and chiefly
contributed to the peaceable manner in which we have journeyed, while
his previous experience put it in his power to be of real use to me. I
cannot but say he has done an essential service to future travellers,
and to the colony at large, by his conduct on all occasions since he
has been with me; nor should I be doing him justice, if I did not avail
myself of the first opportunity of laying my sentiments before the
Governor, through you. I am happy to add that every individual of the
party deserves my warmest approbation, and that they have, one and all,
borne their distresses, trifling certainly, but still unusual, with
cheerfulness, and that they have at all times been attentive to their
duty, and obedient to their orders. The whole are in good health, and
are eager again to start.
I have the honor to be,
Sir
Your most obedient and most humble servant,
CHARLES STURT,
Capt. 39th Regt.
THE HONORABLE THE COLONIAL SECRETARY.
* * * * *
MOUNT HARRIS, 5TH MARCH, 1829.
SIR,--It having appeared to me, that after discovering such a river as
the one I have described in my letter of yesterday, His Excellency the
Governor would approve of my endeavouring to regain it. There being a
probability that it ultimately joins the Southern Waters, I thought of
turning my steps to the southward and westward; and with a view to
learn the nature of the country, I despatched Mr. Hume in that
direction on Saturday last. He returned in three days, after having
gone above forty miles from the river, and states, that he crossed two
creeks, the one about twenty-five miles, the other about thirty-two
distance, evidently the heads of the creeks we passed westward of the
marshes of the Macquarie. He adds, that, to the second creek the land
was excellent, but that on crossing it, he got onto red soil, on which
he travelled some miles further, until he saw a range of high land,
bearing from him S.W.. by W., when, knowing from the nature of the
country around him, and from the experience of our late journey, that
he could not hope to find a regular supply of water in advance, and
that in the present dry state of the low lands, a movement such as I
had contemplated would be impracticable, he returned home. I do myself
the honour, therefore, to report to you, for His Excellency's
information, that I shall proceed on Saturday next in a N.E. direction
towards the Castlereagh, intending to trace that river down, and
afterwards to penetrate as far to the northward and westward as
possible; it being my wish to get into the country north of the more
distant river, where I have expectations that there is an extensive and
valuable track of country, but that in failure of the above, I shall
examine the low country behind our N.W. boundaries, if I can find a
sufficiency of water to enable me to do so.
I am to inform you that in this neighbourhood the Macquarie has ceased
to flow, and that it is now a chain of shallow ponds. The water is fast
diminishing in it, and unless rain descends in a few weeks it will be
perfectly dry.
I am also to report, that the natives attempted the camp with the
supplies before my arrival at Mount Harris, but that on the soldier
with the party firing a shot, after they had thrown a stone and other
of the weapons, they fled. It was in consequence of their fires, which
I saw at a distance of forty miles, and which they never make on so
extensive a scale, except as signals when they want to collect, and are
inclined to be mischievous, that I made forced marches up, and I am led
to believe my arrival was very opportune. The natives have visited us
since, and I do not think they will now attempt to molest either party
when we separate.
I have the honour to be,
Sir,
Your most obedient and most humble servant,
CHARLES STURT,
Capt. 39th Regt.
THE HON. THE COLONIAL SECRETARY.
END OF VOLUME I
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