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Title: Kitecraft
and kite tournaments
Author: Charles M. Miller
Release date: July 24, 2024 [eBook #74111]
Language: English
Original publication: Peoria: The Manual Arts Press, 1914
Credits: Carol Brown, Chris Curnow and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)
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[Illustration]
KITECRAFT
AND KITE TOURNAMENTS
BY CHARLES M. MILLER
ASSISTANT SUPERVISOR OF MANUAL TRAINING
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA
[Illustration]
THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS
PEORIA, ILLINOIS
COPYRIGHT,
CHARLES M. MILLER,
1914.
_The North Wind is my prancing steed,
The Bridle is my kite;
I’ll harness him, I’ll drive him,
’Till my kite’s most out of sight._
M.
_I saw you toss the kites on high,
And blow the birds about the sky,
And all about I heard you pass,
Like ladies’ skirts across the grass._
Stevenson.
INTRODUCTION.
Perhaps the one word that best expresses the trend of education at
the present time is the word life-likeness. The trend is toward
more and more life-likeness in organization and methods. The effort
toward diversification which has resulted in putting manual training
into courses of study, in multiplying courses in high schools, in
providing ungraded and other special rooms in elementary schools, in
breaking grades up into groups for teaching and promotions, in keeping
playgrounds and shops open afternoons and Saturdays, in opening the
school buildings evenings for social centers or socialized evening
schools,--which has resulted in all these changes and others that might
be mentioned,--is simply an effort to make the schools like life. The
theory behind this is that if a school is like life, children will
like school for the same reason that they like life, and the theory
is sound. Before these changes were introduced, our public schools
were a composite structure, made up nearly altogether of two elements,
neither of which was in any degree life-like. These two elements were
the medieval monastery, for order, and the 19th century factory, for
process.
Kite-making in connection with schools is in line with this trend
toward life-likeness. As the ideas and plans contained in this book
have been worked out and carried into execution in the schools of Los
Angeles by the author, they have demonstrated a wonderful socializing
power. By recognizing kite-season in the schools and carrying the
discussion of it into the shop and classrooms, ending with a great
kite-tournament each year, not only have very many boys been reached
who would not have responded to other influences, but the whole
community has been stirred to sympathetic interest in the schools. This
is the kind of influence which causes children to feel that school is
life, and therefore makes tremendously for wholesome education. If the
ideas and plans of the author can be carried out elsewhere as they have
been in Los Angeles for several years, they must prove a help to the
cause of education.
M. C. BETTINGER,
_Assistant Superintendent of Schools_.
PREFACE.
When we started kite work in the Los Angeles City Schools, we little
thought that so great an opportunity for awakening latent power in a
certain class of boys was being initiated, nor did we dream of any such
kite tournaments as have been developed during the past six years.
Starting with half a dozen plans, sent out on mimeographed sheets to
the various schools from time to time during the spring of 1907, the
number of kinds and designs have increased to a hundred or more. Other
cities desiring information regarding the work, a reprint was published
and has been in such demand that it was thought advisable to write a
more comprehensive text on the subject. Many of the former designs have
been included, but none but what should be put in more permanent form,
and most of these have been redrawn for the new work. The plans are not
complete in every detail, something being left for the boy to work out,
but there is enough in the suggestions so that by reasonable planning,
most of the forms can be made by the average boy and still something
will be left for the expert.
The greatest number of kites will be made by fifth and sixth year
boys, but the spirit holds over into seventh and eighth for the larger
and more complex forms, and even into the high school with model
aeroplanes, etc.
It is the hope of the writer that this little book may be instrumental
in giving our boys and girls suggestions for many happy hours in the
construction and flying of kites, and that it may also serve a good
purpose to teacher and pupil in reaching a common ground, and that it
will help some mother in furnishing a good healthy pastime sport for
boys who sometimes try the limit of one’s patience for the lack of
something to do. It is a home construction work largely, and it has
succeeded oftimes much better than was anticipated, for whole families
have become interested in the development of OUR boy’s kite. Mother
generally is interested first, while father looks with disfavor on
so much time being spent on a kite; but before it flies, father gets
very enthusiastic, suggests here and there, and furnishes material for
string, etc., with pleasure, and they all go to the tournament to see
Jack win a first prize. This is one case, there are others.
I believe there is need for such books, and this subject is without
such a text, therefore, this little treatise.
CHARLES M. MILLER,
_Los Angeles, California_.
_November 5, 1912._
[Illustration: CHARLES M. MILLER.]
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
Introduction 5
Preface 7
I. General Kite Construction 11
II. Kite Accessories 16
III. Kinds of Kites 20
IV. Plain Surface Kites 23
V. Box-Kites 39
VI. Combined Kites 48
VII. Decoration of Kites 61
VIII. Messengers 69
IX. Moving Devices 75
X. Suspended Figures and Appliances 82
XI. Balloons and Parachutes 92
XII. Reels 97
XIII. Aeroplane Models 103
XIV. Gliders 108
XV. Model Aeroplanes 112
XVI. Propellers, Motors, Gears, and Winding Devices 121
XVII. Tournaments 127
XVIII. Tournaments, Continued 134
XIX. Conclusion 140
XX. Bibliography 142
CHAPTER I.
GENERAL KITE CONSTRUCTION.
The kite is usually made of a framework of wood, is lashed together
with cord, strung with cord according to design, and finally is covered
with paper; but in each case some other material might be substituted.
The drawings in this book have the framework represented by full lines
and the string by slant dotted lines. The framework must be kept light
and strong. It is usually made of wood, the pieces varying in number
from two in the plain tailless, to sixteen in a good box-kite, and to a
great many in a large tetrahedral kite.
The soft tough woods are better than the hard, heavy woods. Spruce is
considered the most satisfactory, but yellow pine, basswood, and even
white cedar will do. For a three foot kite, the California redwood
shake is very satisfactory. It is a kind of long shingle of uniform
thickness thruout, is six inches wide and three feet long. The shake is
split into strips about 7/16” or ½” wide, and bends sufficiently for
the bow. Some box factories will rip out spruce sticks in 25c. bundles
for boys at about one penny each. Some good sizes are 3/16” × ⅜” × 3’,
¼” × ½” × 4’ and ⅜” × ¾” × 5’. These should be straight grained and
well seasoned.
Sticks should be uniform in weight and bending qualities. Where
sticks are to be centered, careful measurements must be made, then by
balancing over a knife-blade the difference in weight can be detected
and the heavy end reduced by whittling off some. Some try to find
center by balancing, but this is very inaccurate; a string may be used
for measuring.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
Aluminum tubing is used, especially for parts of model aeroplanes, but
it is not available in many places. Some make frames of paper, but
they are more for curiosity than utility. For large frames bamboo is
excellent, but requires a different fastening of joints than sawn out
material, Fig. 1. Split bamboo is excellent for curved outlines and
for light framework of butterflies and bird kites, and for Japanese,
Korean and Chinese kites. Wire can be used for frames of small kites.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
=Lashing.= When two sticks are to be fastened together, instead of
nailing with a small brad, they should be lashed. First wind diagonally
around both sticks in both directions, Fig. 2; then wind between sticks
around the other windings. This draws all the cord up tight, Fig. 3.
Coat over with glue or shellac.
[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
Large box-kite frames with sawn out material should have the upright
posts let into the long horizontal pieces a little, Fig. 4. If a brace
is notched at the end to fit over another piece, Fig. 5, and is liable
to split out, it can be wound just back of the notch with thread, Fig.
6, and coated with shellac. All windings should be neatly done without
criss-cross windings as in Fig. 7. Which do you like best Fig. 6 or
Fig. 7?
[Illustration: FIG. 5.]
[Illustration: FIG. 6.]
[Illustration: FIG. 7.]
=Collapsible Frames.= Folding frames can be made for most kites.
Large tailless kites have either a removable spine or bow, the
square box-kite has braces that spring into shallow notches, and the
triangular box and house kite combination can be rolled by having a
removable cross-stick. It is a great advantage to have folding kites.
=Stringing.= Symmetry is so necessary in the making of a good kite,
that the stringing becomes an important factor; for if two opposite
sides are made unequal, there will be more pressure on one side of
center than the other, the kite will be pulling off to one side or
darting down and perhaps will refuse to fly at all. A small hard
twisted cotton cord is good for stringing as it does not stretch.
[Illustration: FIG. 8.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 9, 10.]
On kites where the string passes around the entire frame, Fig. 8, it is
best to fasten at the end of one stick only, as at _a_, then pass in
the notches of the ends of the other sticks at _b_, _c_, _d_, and tie
again at _a_. We must assume that the horizontal stick in Fig. 8 has
been measured accurately for center as that is a part of the framing
process. The sticks can be notched with a knife, Fig. 9, or a saw-cut
can be made in the end, Fig. 10. The latter is less liable to split
out, but the first is more convenient, for every boy is likely to have
a knife or can borrow one.
[Illustration: FIG. 11.]
After the string is secured around the entire figure, adjustment
between points is made. If a tailless kite is being strung up, the
two upper portions are shifted until the right and left sides are
equal. The ends are then wound with another cord, Fig. 11, to prevent
slipping. The two lower sides are then spaced and the lower end of the
spine is secured in the same way. Some may think it a waste of time
to measure the lower strings after the upper ones have been adjusted,
but very often there is quite a little difference, due to a springing
of the spine. A six pointed star kite would have six, instead of four
spaces to even up. Some stringing is used for inside designs, and some
is used for strengthening frame.
=Covering.= Probably more tissue paper is used in covering kites than
any other material. There are a number of kinds of tissue papers, but
the cheapest, because it is the cheapest, is used most. These cheap
tissue papers are now found in all shades and tints of colors.
The French tissues are more durable, and as a rule, more brilliant in
color. A kite covered with this paper can be used from time to time
without being disabled.
[Illustration: FIG. 12.]
The Chinese tissue paper is the strongest of all tissues in one
direction, and should be used so as to bring the length way of the
paper in the direction of greatest strain. This paper only comes in a
cream color, but is very satisfactory where strength and hand color
work are desired. In Los Angeles we get two sheets for five cents,
and the size is 22” × 23”. There are some wrapping papers that are
pliable and strong enough to be used, especially on box-kites, but only
a few of these are of much service on plain surface kites. The tight
covering on a box kite is an advantage. Some boys use a paper that is
commonly known as a butter paper, and others find orange wrapping paper
serviceable.
Of the cloth coverings, cambric is the most popular. The sizing is
sufficient to keep the covering in shape during construction, it is
light in weight, comes in variety of good colors and is cheap. When
cloth is used on plain surface kites, care must be observed that
the goods are not used on the bias, as the unequal stretching would
unbalance the poise of the kite. Silk is excellent, but ----!! it isn’t
used much by boys.
Most coverings are turned over the outer strings, and are pasted or
sewn down. In representative figure kites, the edge of the paper is
sometimes left free, while the string is made fast by extra strips of
paper pasted fast over the string and to the back of the cover, Fig.
12, thus leaving the edges to flutter in the breeze. Some large kites
can be covered with paper, if a network of string is used at the back
to give support to the covering.
Tailless, and some other kites require loose coverings, this looseness
should be planned for in a systematic manner. If the cover of a 3-foot
kite is placed on a table or the floor with the frame laid on top, the
edge of the cover may be cut one inch or one and one-half inches to
the outside of the string. Instead of turning in this whole amount,
only turn in one-half inch of the outer edge. This leaves plenty of
looseness for bagging of cover, and is regular.
CHAPTER II.
KITE ACCESSORIES
=The Bridle.= The kite is not supposed to be finished until the bridle
(or belly band) is attached. Nearly all kites require a bridle, a
very few have the kite line tied directly to some one point of the
framework. The bridle is a very important part of the kite equipment,
as the kite is dependent on it for the proper distribution of pull by
the kite line, it also gives the inclination of the exposed surface to
the breeze. The inclination is varied slightly for various purposes,
such as high flying, strong pulling, steady flying, etc. To make the
kite fly directly over head, the kite line is attached above the normal
point, and to make it fly low, the attachment should be below normal.
If the single line can be attached to the framework so as to give this
inclination, no bridle is needed but it is usually difficult to locate
the right point.
[Illustration: FIG. 13.]
[Illustration: FIG. 14.]
[Illustration: FIG. 15.]
Many kites need attachment of bridle in but two places, while others
require three, some four, and some are benefited by the use of many
strings to the bridle, but the last may be used for strengthening the
framework of the kite more than for general poise. The Chinese say
there should never be more than three strings to the bridle, while the
Japanese use many.
The tailless kite may have the bridle attached at the bottom and top
of the spine (the vertical stick of the frame) or the bottom and at
the crossing of bow and spine. In either case the bridle must be long
enough so that when it is drawn over to the side of the kite, the loop
will just reach the outer points of the bow, Fig. 13; _ac_ should be
the same length as _ab_, and _cd_ the same length as _bd_. The normal
point of attachment of kite line is at _c_, the point that just reaches
_b_ or _e_ when drawn to the side. Some bird kites have a similar
bridle but much shorter between attachments. More of the form kites
have three and four strings to the bridle. The three string bridle is
usually two strings above and a longer one below, Fig. 14. The four
string bridle has two short uppers and two long lowers, Fig. 15. For
the poly string bridle, see Fig. 16. Some have advocated an elastic
bridle but the writer has never found it of any great advantage.
[Illustration: FIG. 16.]
[Illustration: FIG. 17.]
A double bridle with a kite line to each, makes a dirigible kite
possible, which may be useful in a number of ways and which can give
much amusement in kite antics that is not possible with a single kite
line. A double bridle is illustrated in Fig. 17. Such a kite can be
driven at will. The kite becomes a sail and can be pulled to right and
left, in circles and various contortions, out of the ordinary.
=Kite Lines.= A three or four ply cotton wrapping string is used more
than any other and is very satisfactory for three-foot kites and
smaller. The hard twisted cotton seine twine comes from six to over a
hundred ply, and is excellent for kite lines. It is strong and does not
burn the hands, nor kink as much as hemp twine.
For high flying or racing work, a light strong cord is necessary. A
small kite can carry up a great amount of silk or linen thread but
one should have a reel and gloves to handle it. Shoemakers thread and
upholstering twine are also used. Some think that waxing a string makes
it stronger, but by actual tests before and after waxing, there was
no appreciable difference in the amount of endurance of strain before
breaking. Waxing does preserve the string and prevents fraying and
untwisting.
When kites are put up in tandem, the string need only be as strong for
the first kite as is ordinarily used for one of its size, but as other
kites are added the size of the cord must be increased. This grading of
the string, greatly reduces the total weight and cost of the kite line.
=Reels.= You can fish without a reel and you can fly a kite without
one, but the reel is a great convenience and an absolute necessity at
times for both. The reel in brief is a large spool with flanges on both
ends, a central axle fixed to the spool, a frame for supporting the
axle, a guide for the string to prevent its running off the reel, and
a brake to prevent too rapid unwinding when letting out the string. A
reel can be made without a crank, by having the axle supported at one
end only, and a knob handle fastened to the outer face of the reel for
winding purposes. For further directions, see chapter on Reels.
[Illustration: FIG. 18]
=Tails.= A tail and other balancers are used to give poise to an
otherwise unsteady kite. When a kite is constructed in such a way as to
present a broad flat surface to the breeze, it will sway and dive and
no matter how carefully you attach your bridle it cannot be supported
in the air.
[Illustration: FIGS. 19, 20, 21.]
For kites that represent irregular forms, there must also be a special
balancer. The tail is usually resorted to in such cases. The tail
is more than a weight. A foxy kite refuses to come to terms by the
addition of a thread and lead or other weight. The weight drops so
quickly to its plumb line that the kite has not come to poise, and
makes another pitch in some other direction. The value of the tail
depends not so much on weight as on its pulling capacity while being
drawn thru the air. The tail, usually consisting of a string with a
number of pieces of paper folded and tied thereon, Fig. 18, and with
cloth streamers at the end for weight, exerts considerable pull for
long enough time to give steadiness to the kite. A kite must have poise
in the air just as we balance a board on the end of a finger--if the
finger is not centrally located, the board will fall to the left or
right, front or back; so with the kite, if the pressure of the air
is not centrally located it will glide to left or right, or pitch
forward or tumble backwards. The tail helps most in remedying the two
latter troubles. Almost any light surface can be supported in the air
by proper attachment of bridle and tail. The Japanese use two or more
tails on their square kites consisting usually of long cotton ropes
with large tassels on the end. These look very beautiful trailing out
in long graceful parallel lines.
Another form of air resistance found serviceable, is hollow cones or
funnel shaped devices of light cardboard attached by cords to the kite
in place of tails, Fig. 19.
A Chinese boy had a colored paper ball about 8” in diameter attached by
a string to one of the kites last year, Fig. 20. Another form is the
intersected cardboard discs, Fig. 21. Other forms can be used.
Christmas and other paper rope used for decoration purposes could be
used to advantage for tails of kites. They will catch the breeze and
can be festooned into pretty designs but will need cord supports to
give strength.
Don’t throw away a kite because it has to have a tail. The tail is
sometimes the most beautiful part.
CHAPTER III.
KINDS OF KITES.
Kites are so numerous in kinds and design nowadays that, in order to
get at any kind of intelligent discussion of them, it will be necessary
to segregate them into classes and varieties as the scientist does in
his investigations of nature study. There is the great big subject of
constructive sport called kite making. The name kite strikes joy to any
live boy’s heart and it does him good too. But kite making is too big,
so we will try running some cross-roads thru, thus dividing it into
smaller groups.
A large number of kites can be classed together as having the same
general make-up and we will call the first, Class A, Plain Surface
Kites. These kites have one general surface without any built out
parts, and can be subdivided into two divisions: 1. Geometric and
regular forms, 2. Irregular and representative forms.
There are two divisions of the geometric and regular forms:
a. Tailless kites.
b. Kites with tails, regular in form.
The two divisions of irregular forms are:
a. Set pieces of design.
b. Insect, bird, animal, and man kites.
This brings the analysis for Class A down to variety which will be
discussed in succeeding chapters.
Class B. Box-Kites, has six subdivisions:
1. Square.
2. Rectangular.
3. Triangular.
4. Cylindrical.
5. Hexagonal.
6. Tetrahedral.
Class C. Combined Kites. Box-kites may have additions of plain
surfaces, or combinations of curved surfaces and plain ones, giving
shapes that represent hollow forms of fish, animals, etc.
1. Straight extensions of plain surfaces.
2. Hollow shapes representing animal and mechanical forms.
Class D. Kites in Series. These are made up of combined kites also,
but the combinations are so different that they belong in a class by
themselves.
1. Compound kites.
2. Kites in tandem.
a. Connected directly to one line.
b. Connected by individual lines of some length to one main line.
3. Dragon Kites.
The plain kites are the more numerous for several reasons. They are
more easily constructed, take less time, use less material, fly in
lighter breeze, and are usually more stable in air. The construction as
a rule consists of two or three sticks as a framework with a covering
stretched over it so as to form a simple plane that is exposed to the
breeze. Of course, there are tricks in making the plain kites, but
almost any of them can be made to fly by either warping the surface or
attaching a tail.
Box-kites require considerable time and are more difficult in
construction. They are a built up framework with cloth or strong paper
coverings. The frames must be kept light and strong, and a process of
trussing is necessary to accomplish this. The covering seldom covers
the whole framework but usually is made in bands. The space enclosed
by a band is called a cell. Most box-kites consist of a forward and
rear cell, that is a band is found at each end around the framework,
transversely to the length of the kite. Some of the most practical
working kites are of the box-kite type. By working kite, I mean kites
that are used for a purpose other than pleasure.
Some box-kites have extended wings of plain surfaces to gain more
lifting power, or for poise, and the application of these appendages
serves to explain the combination of kinds that form this group.
In the group “Kites in Series” we have kites of the same kind fastened
rigidly together making one kite, called a compound kite, also kites
fastened one after the other a few feet apart on one line and all
started up at one time, and still another set of similar kites in which
a number of kites are put up on individual strings, one at a time,
for perhaps 300 feet, and are then attached to the main kite line.
Boys sometimes succeed in pulling up as high as forty kites on one
line by this method. Another very interesting and beautiful series is
the Chinese dragon kite type. In this a number of kites are harnessed
together with about three cords running from head to tail.
These various groups will receive more explicit directions in separate
chapters as we proceed. So far in our analysis we have been dealing
with kinds of kites as to construction. There will be a number of
chapters on various other features of kite work and accessories,
including, Kite Decoration, Messengers, etc. The Chinese and Japanese
people have been making kites a great many years and have become very
skilful workers and decorators. Their decorations seem to tend more
toward the depicting of ugliness and fierceness instead of beauty and
color harmony, altho many of the color combinations are very effective.
The tendency toward fierceness can well be understood when we consider
that it has a part in their religion, it being supposed that such ugly
monsters helped to drive away the evil spirits.
The large Japanese square kite, which is rectangular in shape instead
of square, usually has a big head with plenty of the whites of the eyes
and teeth showing. Some very fine specimens have been exhibited at our
“Kite Tournaments”. They expend quite freely in making up their kites,
use costly ornaments and considerable gilt and black. The gilt is
usually very good that is used.
While the orientals have shown us some stunning effects in decoration,
I believe that the future will show some results of color harmony and
artistic spacing that will be much superior to theirs. We are busy as
yet trying to master the kite craft from the constructive and flying
side, but we are getting on, even on the decorative side as well.
We are now ready to discuss variety in the next chapter.
CHAPTER IV.
PLAIN SURFACE KITES.
[Illustration: FIGS. 22, 23, 24, 25.]
The tailless continues to be the most popular of all the kites. No
matter how artistic, how representative, how curious, or how mechanical
the new kites may be, the tailless is the first and last out every
season. It flies in a very light breeze, and is so steady in the air.
There are several kinds of tailless, but the two stick Eddy Kite seems
to be the winner. These kites are made from five inches to thirty feet
in height. This kite, Figs. 8 and 22, has two sticks of equal length,
the vertical stick is called the spine, and should be straight, while
the bow is placed about one-fifth the distance down from the top of
the spine. This bow stick is bent backward by inserting a brace stick
as shown by Fig. 23. The advantage of a removable brace stick will be
recognized when a person tries to carry several kites to a field at one
time. If the brace stick is out, the kites lie flat and do not injure
each other, so that twenty-five or more might be carried by one person,
but if the kite is bowed, there may be great difficulty in carrying two
or three. Most boys bow about three inches for a three-foot kite. See
Chapter 1 for the stringing of this kite.
=The tailless kites= are nearly all constructed so as to have a keel
projecting out to the front. In order that the keel may be of more
service, the covering is not stretched tight, but is left loose.
Perhaps an inch along each side would be allowed for bagging or
pocketing. See Chapter I on covering. If the covering is drawn tight,
the kite will dodge and will probably dive to destruction.
[Illustration: FIGS. 26, 27, 28, 29.]
Now we can modify this type form of kite. We can use two spines and two
bows, Fig. 24. In this kite the upper bow should be bent more than the
lower, and the bridle will be of more service if attached to the upper
bow at two points about midway from spine to end of bow. The covering
should not be quite so loose on this kite as on Fig. 22 but should not
be tight. Another variation is given in Fig. 25, in which two spines
are used and one bow. Sometimes the spines are crossed as shown in
Fig. 26, the distance being much greater at the bottom than at the top
between the ends of the spine sticks. A modification of the last two is
shown in Fig. 27, in which a built out keel is shown. Two small braces
project from the bottom of each spine with a third stick connecting
their meeting place with the center of the bow stick.
[Illustration: FIGS. 30, 31, 32, 33.]
Still one other combination is a form that can be used as a foundation
for many outline shapes. It is shown in Fig. 28, and has two spines
and two bows; but where much modification is made, a tail or other
balancers must be used. A kite with a broken bow is like a bird
with a broken wing, but if broken in the center it can be redeemed
for service by the addition of a cross-stick, as shown in Fig. 29.
The broken part should be well lashed together. A kite could be
successfully planned in this way from the beginning. It is possible to
make a number of geometric or representative forms as tailless kites,
but representative forms as a rule need tails.
[Illustration: FIG. 34.]
[Illustration: FIG. 35.]
The shield, Fig. 30, is one of the tailless kites and the writer
succeeded very well with a two bowed tailless in the shape of a six
pointed star. See Fig. 32.
Perhaps the largest group in real variation is that in which kites with
tails or other forms of balances are found. And first and foremost,
comes our grandfathers’ old English bow kite, Fig. 18, having a bow
that curves upward, but not backward, over the end of a single spine.
Tassels were added at each side of the kite at the termination of each
end of the bow, and a long tail of rolled papers tied to a string with
a cloth hanging at the end was attached to the bottom of the spine.
[Illustration: FIG. 36.]
The great class of star kites, with varying numbers of points, and the
geometric, hexagonal, octagonal, and other forms belong to this group.
A three string bridle is most satisfactory for most of these forms. The
two upper strings of bridle should be the same length but shorter than
the lower string. The latter should be attached at a central point at
the bottom. In case there is no stick to anchor to at the center of
the bottom, four strings may be necessary or two longer ones may be
used at the bottom and one shorter one at the top. However the bridle
is attached, the shorter strings are always at the top, and the single
string must be centrally located to right and left, whether at the top
or bottom, and the double portions on equal distances to each side of
center line.
[Illustration: FIG. 37.]
The bridle for a single spine and bow tailless is something attached at
top and bottom of spine, or at the intersection of bow and spine, and
at bottom of spine. In either case the bridle should be long enough so
that when stretched out to the side of the kite while attached at the
two points named, it will just reach out to the end of the bow; and
at this point the kite line is attached; see Fig. 13. Fig. 33 shows a
hexagonal kite. The same framework could be covered as a star kite,
Fig. 34. There may be any number of points to a star kite, but most
boys make the six-pointed ones. Sometimes the points are arranged as
in Fig. 35, and again as in Fig. 33. Fig. 36 shows a very interesting
tail for smaller star kites. Fig. 37 has another arrangement of stars
for the tail. Fig. 38 shows a pentagonal kite and its construction.
The bridle might be attached at one upper point and the two lower
points. Fig. 39 shows an addition to the six-pointed star, in the shape
of a crescent. Note that two sticks are longer, extending across the
crescent, thus giving more rigidity to the surface. The outline of the
crescent was made of split bamboo. In a similar manner, a broad circle
could be formed about Fig. 38. See 38a.
[Illustration: FIGS. 38, 38a, 39, 40.]
Star and hexagonal kites are not the only members of the regular
shapes with tails. The Japanese square kite, Fig. 40, which is usually
rectangular in shape, has a vertical spine, two diagonal spines, and
several horizontal ribs that are lighter in weight than the spines.
The larger the kite, the more horizontal ribs will be required. By
making removable spines the kites can be rolled up and the Japanese
have exhibited some very beautiful ones that have been imported. Some
of these cost as high as $30.00 or more. The two long ropelike tails
swinging in graceful, parallel curves give a beautiful effect to the
whole kite. The bridle is usually attached at many places on this kite.
[Illustration: FIG. 40a.]
Regular forms of kites are many. In Fig. 41 the circle is of reed or
split bamboo. It would be well to fasten the bridle at four points.
Fig. 42 needs no special explanation as the construction is similar
to Fig. 41. The balloon kite is another modification. The ship kites,
Figs. 43, 44, 45, 45a, show the construction in the drawing. A piece of
pasteboard is used for the hull. They make pretty kites.
[Illustration: FIGS. 41, 42.]
[Illustration: FIG. 46.]
[Illustration: FIG. 43.]
[Illustration: FIG. 44.]
[Illustration: FIG. 45.]
[Illustration: FIG. 45a.]
The irregular forms are more representative, and to many, more
interesting, because with patience and ingenuity almost any form can
be made to float in the air. Soaring birds, Fig. 46, are attractive
and their construction is unique. Split bamboo is mostly used for the
framework. The Chinese boys take small strips of the Chinese tissue
paper to lash the pieces of frame together. It is very light and if
twisted while wet, becomes tight and strong when dry. The covering is
also of Chinese tissue and colored with a water color brush. A group
of about five of these kites is very interesting when soaring about
on high. A pleasing modification is an ingenious tail attachment that
is hinged to the body so that the tail drops and is raised again by
the breeze, giving the appearance of fluttering when a little distance
away. Fig. 47 is a photograph of three that were flown at one time and
were mistaken by many for real birds, while Fig. 48 is a photograph
of a pair with fluttering tails. In each picture the back of one bird
is shown. In Fig. 47 the birds are flat but in Fig. 48 the bodies are
rounded out, giving a keel to the kite. This is done by making a light
framework of small split bamboo. Notice the little patches of paper
on the back that hold the string, allowing the edge of the covering
to float and flutter as feathers. The bridle attachment may be two
strings, as in Fig. 13, and may be three, as in Fig. 14. A set piece
is shown in Fig. 49, with an American flag fluttering as a balancer.
This makes a very beautiful kite when enough time is put on it to make
the bird stand out clear and real in appearance. One boy cut papers and
stuck on to a background for feathers and while he succeeded well it is
not necessary and not as effective as a few good strokes with a water
color brush.
Butterflies offer a great variety in design and color, the best
results being obtained by pasting the striking colors over the general
covering. A more permanent kite can be made by using the Chinese tissue
with strong water colors, and it is more a work of art. A kite thirty
inches across, made of bamboo and Chinese paper will last for years
if it has good care. Butterfly kites have been made to fly without
tails but nearly all need one. Two drawings are shown, Fig. 50 shows
the double tail of ribbon and button of cardboard at bottom. The body
is curved like the bird form, Fig. 48, and the edge of the wing is
scalloped but the waves are longer than for feathers. A Chinese boy
made this and placed a small silk Chinese flag on one side of the
head and a like American flag on the other. The antennae were pieces
of small reed with silk balls that are sometimes used in ornamenting
draperies and gowns.
[Illustration: FIG. 47.]
[Illustration: FIG. 48.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 49, 49a, 50, 51.]
=Animal Forms.= The animals are not limited to bears, but horses,
elephants, etc., can be outlined in kite forms. Fig. 52 shows a
standing bear with little bears swinging between ropes as balancers for
the large bear. The ropes in the kite may be strips of cambric. Small
strips of wood should cross from one rope to the other back of the
little bears which are made of medium thick cardboard. The bridle can
be attached from the bear’s shoulders to the bottom of the spine stick.
The bridle is attached only to the large bear.
[Illustration: FIG. 52.]
[Illustration: FIG. 53.]
A horse carrying a knight in armor, or horses hitched to a chariot,
would take much planning but are within reach. An elephant with
splendid equipment of royal hangings would make a gorgeous appearance.
When difficult problems of this kind are attempted it should be by kite
makers of experience as much adjusting will be necessary, and plans for
framework will be needed that will give rigidity and lightness. Some
parts in a complex design will need stiffening with reed bent out and
around from the framework. Sometimes a small outline may be effected
by means of stiff paper and again a string may be stretched from some
distant stick of the framework so as to carry the covering out to
certain lines. By careful planning some very complicated forms can
be worked out. In the mounted knight, Fig. 53, the nose of the horse
will be a straight stick, but the upper line of neck and lower part of
head will be bent reed, and of good weight. The raised knee and foot
are reed, while the under side of neck changes from the line of the
breast by means of a string. The back of the foreleg on the ground is
of string, while the extension of the stirrup might be of stiff paper.
Much can be done with the brush. For instance, the dropping down of the
rump to the tail would be curved, let the outline run angular, then
with a heavy streak of color, give form. A little silver paper on the
armor will spice it up wonderfully.
We might consider a mechanical model, an electric coupe, Fig. 54. The
tires may be somewhat exaggerated and stationary, while the inside
spokes and hub could be in the form of a small windmill so as to turn
around, giving the effect of running. In such case, the fans should be
so turned as to turn the wheels in the same direction. By the use of
a double bridle and two kite lines, it would be possible to cause the
auto to travel across the sky. Electric cars and locomotives might be
similarly made and manipulated.
[Illustration: FIG. 54.]
[Illustration: FIG. 55.]
When reed or bamboo are to be bent for some very particular form, it
might be well to lay it out on a board with brads on each side, leaving
it to dry. In this way a truer form may be secured. Bamboo can be bent
into shape by a little heating over a flame.
[Illustration: FIGS. 56, 57, 58.]
The human kite has all the possibilities of caricature in it, and
there are some very funny attempts. “Just Boy,” Fig. 55, is a good
one, and “Foxy Grandpa” is popular. Fig. 56 is the “Squared Chinaman”.
The “Clown and Donkey,” Fig. 57, is rather easy, being a combination
of three tailless kites. The “Dutch Girl” makes a good kite, also “Me
Happy,” Fig. 58. In these as in the previous sub-group, much of the
effect is dependent on skilful handling of brush, after the kite has
been constructed. The flying depends much on the attachment of bridle
and balancers.
CHAPTER V.
BOX-KITES.
=Box-kites= were a new invention a very few years ago. People said,
“No use trying to put a drygoods box up in the air,” and yet something
very similar in shape has been successfully used for a number of
practical purposes. The box-kites usually require more breeze than
the plain surface kites, but are stronger pullers, which means also
heavier lifters than their lighter breeze cousins. Before entering the
discussion of box-kites, it will be well to understand some terms that
are used quite generally by all kite enthusiasts. Fig. 59 is a plain
two-celled box-kite; _a_, is the length of the kite. The framework
consists of four sticks, one at each corner, and four braces, two near
each end of the kite, placed diagonally across the inside of the kite
from one corner stick to the other. The covering consists of two bands
passing on the outside of the four corner sticks, one band at each end.
[Illustration: FIG. 59.
FIGS. 60, 61.
FIGS. 62, 63.]
The band and space enclosed is called a cell of the kite. So this kite
has two cells. The length of the cell is the same as the width of the
kite and is represented by _b_; the depth of the cell is the same as
the height of the kite in its present position, and is shown by letter
_e_; the breadth of the cell by letter _d_; and the distance between
cells, _c_, is called the vent. Nearly all box-kites require the vent,
and the vent is usually wider than the breadth of the cell. Usually the
two cells, the fore and aft, are the same size, but not necessarily so.
No one would be seen flying a box-kite with any kind of tail unless
that had a purpose in carrying out the design. The square box-kite,
Fig. 60, is square in cross-section, is very serviceable for flying,
and is convenient for carrying. It is usually made to fold up, and the
bridle is attached to one corner piece of the frame. This kite flies
diagonally in the air. It is quite easy to attach the bridle to two
corner sticks of the frame, when it flies horizontally, Fig. 61. Lining
cambric is good for covering and some bright color should be used;
but some prefer a good wrapping paper. Chinese tissue may be used if
the kite is not too large. The corner sticks stand diagonally in the
corners of the kite so that the notches of the braces can fit over
them, see Fig. 62. The drawing represents the end of the kite, with
the corner sticks stretched apart. Fig. 63 represents a part of one
of the braces. String and glue are used back of the notch to prevent
splitting when the strain is put on them up in the air. The braces are
made just a little long so that they bow a little when in place, and
this stretches the cover tight.
[Illustration: FIGS. 64, 65, 66.]
A word about getting the cover on the corner sticks may be in order.
The distance around the kite is determined, and a band is made the
right width and the right length to reach around when the braces are
sprung to place. Stretch the band out like a rubber band, Fig. 64, and
put in two corner sticks at _a_ and _b_ that have previously been glued
on one edge, and allowed to partially dry until it is what is called
tacky. Now the band at the other end should also be glued in place when
the progress will show as in Fig. 65. Remember the glue is only on the
outer edge of the sticks. Now find and mark the exact center between
the sticks glued in place and fold to these two lines, and glue in the
other two sticks in a similar manner. The progress made will be as
shown in Fig. 66. When the glue is thoroly dry, the kite is ready for
the braces and for flying. The braces might be tied together where they
cross each other. A good size for the corner sticks is 3/16” × ½” × 36”
with bands 10” wide and 64” long, plus 1” additional for the hem. This
will give 16” for each side. Enough will be needed additional in width
so as to allow a ½” hem for each side. Each band then will require a
strip of cloth or paper 11” wide and 65” long. With paper bands the ½”
should be folded over and a string should be glued inside to strengthen
the edge. The braces should be ⅛” × ½” × 21⅞” from the bottom of one
notch to the bottom of the other, see Fig. 62.
=Rectangular Kite.= The next is the rectangular kite, as shown in
Fig. 67. This is a splendid kite of its kind and should have specific
measurements. The two center pieces called the spines are ⅝” × ⅝” the
corner and cross-pieces ⅜” × ⅜”. The bands for cells are 21” wide by
18”, with 1” additional for the seam. The edges should be hemmed as
in previous kite. The framework should be all thoroly wired in every
direction as shown by drawing, Fig. 68. Little wire turnbuckles such as
are sold by firms carrying model aeroplane supplies might be used, and
the stretch of the wires could be taken up from time to time. A well
made kite will last a long time if it has good care. This particular
construction is for large kites and they are not often made to fold,
altho it is possible to make them so. Out of the box-kite has grown the
aeroplane. Some good sizes for kites are:
Six-foot kite:--6’ long, 6’ wide, 3’
deep, 1’9” width of cell, ⅝” × ⅝”
corner-pieces, 2’6” between cells, ⅝” × ⅝” spines.
Nine-foot kite:--9’ long, 9’ wide, 4’
deep, 2’6” width of cell, ¾” × ¾”
corner-pieces, 4’ between cells, 1” × 1” spines.
Twelve-foot kite:--12’ long, 12’ wide, 6’
deep, 3’6” width of cell, ⅞” × ⅞”
corner pieces, 5’ between cells, 1¼” × 1¼” spines.
[Illustration: FIG. 68.
FIG. 67.]
The two kites just described may be modified in a number of ways as
follows:--Two square kites side by side will give Fig. 69, and three
side by side Fig. 70; these might be increased in both directions until
a kite like Fig. 71 might be evolved. But there is no great gain and
much hindrance in some of these complications. If there is insufficient
room between upper and lower surface, not all of the surface is exposed
and there is skin friction, again if there is not space enough between
the fore and back cells, the front cuts off the air pressure to some
extent on the back cells. So Fig. 72 is not high enough, while Fig.
73 has the fore and back cells too close together. Fig. 74 is very
unstable in the air.
[Illustration: FIGS. 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 75, 76, 77, 78, 79.]
The triangular cross-section has the advantage of a bracing framework
and is easy in combination. The bridle is attached to one of the long
sticks and the kite rides on a keel, Fig. 75. Three braces about
the middle of each cell keep the corner sticks out to place. These
can be put in at the field, thus allowing the kite to be rolled for
transportation. The triangular kite is sometimes lengthened so as to
use three cells, Fig. 76, and again two kites are placed side by side,
Fig. 77, and this may be increased by placing another below both, as in
Fig. 78. In the last combination we have a large kite to the outside
and a smaller one to the inside which can be lengthened so as to give
three cells in length, Fig. 79, and many other combinations can be made.
[Illustration: FIG. 80.]
[Illustration: FIG. 81.]
[Illustration: FIG. 82.]
[Illustration: FIG. 83.]
=Tetrahedral Kite.= Out of the triangular has grown the celebrated Bell
tetrahedral kites, which can be increased in size beyond that of any
other kite. No attempt will be made to give an exhaustive description
or full construction of these wonderful kites as Dr. Bell has written
a number of good articles on the subject for the _Scientific American_
and other magazines. There have been some wonderful kites made on this
principle of construction. In simple kites of this construction we have
a large tetrahedral frame composed of six sticks, Fig. 80. Owing to the
bracing effect, remarkably small material can be used. For a kite four
feet to an edge, 3/16” sticks were ample. All of the drawings given
here represent the kite resting on its keel, tho a kite left in that
position would topple over unless supported in some way. Now we will
divide this large tetrahedral horizontally by four sticks, Fig. 81,
and in Fig. 82 strings are run from the ends of the four horizontal
sticks to the middle of the keel, also to the middle of the upper ridge
stick. Some use sticks in place of the strings, but if the kite is not
too large the strings are as good and in small kites better. Fig. 83
shows a four-celled tetrahedral with the coverings on. Fig. 84 shows
a further division in which each cell of Fig. 83 is again divided
into four cells, making a 16-celled kite. The kite rides in the air
tipped as shown in Fig. 85. Look up some of the articles given in the
“Bibliography of Kites” for further discussions of this type.
[Illustration: FIG. 84.]
[Illustration: FIG. 85.]
[Illustration: FIG. 86.]
The hexagonal kite is also an outgrowth of the triangular. Looking at
the end of a hexagonal kite, three brace sticks will be seen, Fig. 86,
which can be made removable, thus allowing the kite and its covering
to be rolled. The kite will be more stable in the air if one side is
down, so the bridle will be attached to two of the long sticks, and if
it proves unmanageable, at four points.
[Illustration: FIGS. 87, 88.]
The circular cross-sectioned or barrel kite is more of a curiosity.
It has two cells, and the frame is made up of four circles, either of
split bamboo, reed, or thin tough wood. The circle should be shaped
before further construction is attempted. Most of the strain will come
on the circles so the ribs, connecting the four circles, may be quite
light and slender. There will be less danger of twisting out of shape
if more than two ribs are used. The ribs should be lashed to the rings
with thread or twisted paper. No braces are necessary in the small
ones; a long stick slanting thru the entire kite may be used in the
larger ones, see Fig. 87, with covering.
A pentagonal frame could be constructed with three braces, Fig. 88, and
should be flown in the position shown.
CHAPTER VI.
COMBINED KITES.
COMBINING PLAIN SURFACES AND BOX KITES TOGETHER.
[Illustration: FIG. 89.]
=Straight Extension of Surfaces.= One of the most efficient and popular
kites in the combined construction group is the two spined tailless,
called the house kite, and the triangular box-kite, as shown by Fig.
89. This is an easy kite to make and the proportions are easy to
remember. The simplest plan is shown in Fig. 90. Three sticks of the
same size are used; say, ⅜” × ½” × 4½’. The horizontal stick is lashed
to the two vertical spines down one-third the distance from the top,
in this case 18”. The two spines are also 18” apart, which leaves the
extension of the horizontal 18” to each side of spines. Now run a
string around the outside of the framework, and cover as in Fig. 91.
The two cells are now built over the two spaces between the spines.
There need not be any braces for these cells, but another stick of the
same dimensions as the other three is used to keep the keel shaped
portion in place when pulled out by the breeze. The whole framework
can be built rigid, using two short braces about the middle of each
cell out to the fourth stick or keel of kite; the best way, however,
is to make the horizontal stick removable and without the short braces
so that the kite may be rolled up. Remember there are only four sticks
in such a kite and they are all the same size. This kite is sometimes
called the “Coyne Kite,” again the “French War Kite,” and is a steady
flyer and a strong puller. The bridle can be adjusted so as to give
much or little inclination to the breeze. For lazy, easy gliding, the
kite would be adjusted as in Fig. 92, or with the lower horizontal
shorter, as in Fig. 93. The horizontals may be bowed forward and also
backward. We have had all sizes of this kite at the tournaments. Fig.
94 is about five inches tall, while another was sixteen feet tall and
required quite an army of boys to pull it up in the air.
[Illustration: FIGS. 90, 91, 92, 93.]
A similar combination can be made with the square box-kite on the
diagonal with straight surfaces out to each side, as shown in Fig. 95.
Besides the four vertical sticks, there are four horizontal pieces
of the so as to be nearer horizontal. This kite can be modified by
a lower horizontal two-thirds down of the same length as the upper
horizontal, as in same length and one short brace placed centrally in
each cell to keep the fore and back sticks apart. The short braces
can be notched to slip into place and on being removed will let the
kite down flat. This kite will need to be more rigid than the one
just described. A hexagonal box-kite could be made with side wings by
extending one of the braces at each end, Fig. 96, and the pentagonal
form could be similarly modified. Fig. 97 has a little different plan
of extension that looks more like wings. A triangular box-kite is used
as the main structure to build on. Three long sticks are required with
four short braces on each side, eight in all, with eight wing sticks,
four long and four shorter, that are attached to an inner long stick
of the box-like portion and extend across to the short brace of the
opposite side. When a pair of the extension sticks are fastened to
place, they are lashed together at their crossing point. The slanting
extensions are strongly built and add poise to the kite.
[Illustration: FIG. 94.]
The poise of a rectangular kite may be increased by the addition of
slant extensions. The extension pieces start from the lower corner
pieces, pass under the upper corner pieces, lashing fast at both
places, Fig. 98. If a little variety in outline is desired, split
bamboo or reed could be used to make such forms as are desired; even
string connections can be made.
In making hollow form objects both patience and skill are necessary. A
form that is interesting but not representative of any real object is
shown in Fig. 99. Another is the arrow kite, Fig. 100. The flying bird
kite should make a good problem for some ingenious chap. The framework
and stringing is shown in Fig. 101. The cross-section of the body of
the bird is about the shape of a tailless kite. The plan gives such
good bracing construction that very light material may be used. Four
feet would be a good length for this kite. The soaring bird, Fig. 102,
is quite similar in construction to the preceding kite. The body is
never square in cross-section. A little bow is given to the tip ends of
the wings. The back line of the wing changes by means of an extra cord.
This kite is not as stable as “The flying Bird.”
[Illustration: FIG. 95.]
The “flying fish,” Fig. 103, needs vents, as the whole body is a
box-kite. Two views of the framework are given; a center spine runs
the entire length of the fish with two curves at the mouth. The mouth
is left open, so string is used for the outline. The original kite was
very mechanically made. It was beyond amateur work and showed that some
skilled workman had assisted. Much can be done with the brush to make
this a very interesting kite. Scales can be painted and the fins and
tail lined up. Wherever vents are placed, there should be a string for
the edge of the paper to turn over, or it will tear out.
The “Clown and Donkey,” Fig. 57, is the combination of three tailless
kites, and is what is known as a compound kite. Fig. 104 is another
example of compounding. Fig. 105 shows a star kite compounded together.
[Illustration: FIGS. 96, 97, 98, 99.]
=Kites in Series.= A boy may put up a kite about five hundred feet, and
if it is a good flyer, tie the kite line fast and put up another on
perhaps three hundred feet of string. If the second is also a steady
flyer he can tie the end of that kite line to the first and let out
perhaps three hundred feet more of the first line, and again tie it
fast. Another kite is added in the same manner as the second and so
on. The best flyers of the series should be placed as leaders. Boys
have put up as high as forty kites in such a series, and no one has
any idea of the beauty of such a series, when looking up from the
standpoint of the flyer, until he has actually seen such a combination.
Some prefer to take a color scheme and use it for all the kites, others
prefer a great variety of colors, and it is hard to tell which is the
most pleasing. Tailless kites are used more than any other for such
purposes. Fig. 106 shows the arrangement. This is one of the best
schemes for high flying. The first kite should not be put out to the
limit of its lifting power else when the rest of the string is lifted
it will not mount up higher. It should have considerable reserve when
the second kite is attached. For high flying, the kites should be
placed farther apart, and the first part of the line should be light
and strong and the thickness increased as needed for strength of the
combined kites. Kites can be put up to a great height in this way. This
way of combining kites is called “Kites in Tandem.”
[Illustration: FIG. 100.]
[Illustration: FIG. 101.]
[Illustration: FIG. 102.]
[Illustration: FIG. 103.]
Another way of flying kites in tandem is to fasten all kites directly
to the one kite line, the line passing thru each kite after the first.
This method however requires a helper for each kite and they are placed
closer together. At one of the Los Angeles Tournaments, two boys had a
beautiful team of green and white kites arranged in the second series
of tandem. The kites were of the triangular box and house kite order,
Fig. 89, were six feet and nine feet tall, and were nine in number.
There was insufficient breeze to fly them well, but it was great sport
for thirty or forty boys to run with the kite line. They were strong
enough to lift up a large man. The heaviest pull that was registered
was a little over two hundred pounds, but in a good breeze they would
have pulled over four hundred. I would like to show you a picture of
them, but I failed to get one.
[Illustration: FIG. 104.]
[Illustration: FIG. 105.]
[Illustration: FIG. 106.]
[Illustration: FIG. 107.]
[Illustration: FIG. 108.]
[Illustration: FIG. 109.]
In the second series of tandems, while all kites are attached to the
same line directly, there is an individual bridle for each kite,
but in the third series we have a sort of harness that combines all
kites together, so that if one tips forward, all tip forward, and
vice versa. It will be seen that in Figs. 107 and 108 where a number
of tailless kites are arranged in a regular series, that there is a
complete harness running from the larger kite as a head, to the banner
floating out at the rear. Four cords are attached, one at the top,
another at the bottom, and one at each side. The distances between all
points are the same, so when the head tips forward, the second kite
has a similar inclination to the breeze, and so on thruout the whole
series. The bridle is attached at the four points at the head, so
attached as to give a good flying inclination. This series is called
a “Tailless Dragon Kite” and flies well and makes a fine appearance
in the air. The tailless dragon can be made more ornamental and seem
more connected, by extending the spine above the kite as in the head,
a string with a feather edge of tissue paper being festooned from the
top of one kite in the series to the next. At the bottom of each kite
some streamers of tissue paper would help in the same manner, Fig. 109.
The regular Chinese centipede kite, Fig. 110, is not so difficult now
that we have harnessed the tailless dragon.
[Illustration: FIG. 110.]
[Illustration: FIG. 112.]
[Illustration: FIG. 111.]
[Illustration: FIG. 113.]
The Chinese say there should never be more than three strings to
bridle or harness; this bridle has two strings to the head of the
dragon, and three strings to the harness. The harness consists of
the three strings running from one end of the kite to the other. The
Chinese dragon kite usually, if not always, has circular disks for
the body of the monster. Fig. 111 shows a beautiful kite hung on the
wall for decorative purposes and shows the design on the individual
sections, while Fig. 112 shows the same kite held by boys on the lawn.
The lighter portion on the disk is green with gilt scales, while the
darker portion is scarlet. The head is all colors, with red mouth,
white teeth, eyes that revolve with little mirrors thereon to flash the
sunlight. The framework for the head is shown in Fig. 113. While the
framework for each circular disk, Fig. 114, is just a band of bamboo,
with a light strip of bamboo to which the peacock feathers are attached
as balancers, the disks are covered with Chinese paper and decorated.
The disks are 10” and the balancer sticks 30”. The feathers are lashed
to the balancer sticks. The discs are 12” apart. The last disc has
streamers of ribbon or tissue paper. This kite flies well and sways
about like an immense brightly colored caterpillar up in the air.
[Illustration: FIG. 114.]
The dragon kite, Fig. 115, was very beautiful and flew high in the air.
The colors were pink and white. Instead of feathers for balancers,
tufts of tissue paper were used. A special balancer was used for the
whole kite in the form of a hollow ball. Small reed or bamboo was
used for the skeleton, and this was covered with tissue paper. See it
hanging below the kite’s head in the picture. The various sections are
covered with different colored papers. The heads differ, but otherwise
the kites are quite similar in construction.
[Illustration: FIG. 115.]
CHAPTER VII.
DECORATION OF KITES.
Kites may be decorated in three general ways. Piece work in covering;
overlaying, called aplaca; and brush work. The decoration of kites
presents some unique problems. The great distances at which the
decorations are to be seen force a study of the carrying qualities of
colors.
[Illustration: FIG. 116.]
The star kite is probably the best for decoration, as the spacing falls
in easier relationships than some of the other forms. In the kite shown
in Fig. 116 the covering is applied so as to give a decorative effect,
and it showed up splendidly in the air. The colors did not stand out as
well as might be expected, however, and while high in the air it was
nearly overlooked by the judges. When brought nearer it received the
first prize. Another way of combining colors is to make one half one
color and the other half another, giving a light and shade effect to
each point, Fig. 117.
Fig. 37 shows a pleasing arrangement of spaces. The kite is first
covered with the body color, then the bandings are put on, and lastly
the spots. A banding around the outside of the stars in the tail is
effective and in keeping. Passe-partout is excellent for banding in
some places.
The five-pointed star kite, Fig. 38, is neat and artistic. The
framework is given to the left.
=The Six-pointed Star=, Fig. 118, has interesting spaces and paths.
The wide paths running to the center are divided by passe-partout. The
discs at the points are in keeping with the large one at the center.
The main cover was in two tones of grey green. The one spine and two
bowed tailless kite gives good opportunity for decoration. Fig. 119 is
designed as a banner kite, Fig. 120 a conventionalized bull pup, and
Fig. 121 a flower form. The two stick tailless kite is not as easy to
space well as some of the others, yet a number of excellently decorated
kites of this form have been exhibited. Fig. 122 has a blue body and
black paths with gilt over the black. The gilt was put on by hand. Fig.
123 is very similar in design but with light paths between dark. Fig.
124 has a red, white and blue combination with black paths and gilt
stripes on the color spaces. In Fig. 125 the radiating lines would be
curved in the air.
[Illustration: FIG. 117.]
[Illustration: FIG. 119.]
The Japanese square kite, Fig. 126, is like a canvas, ready for a
grotesque figure, a beautiful landscape, or a conventional design, and
many of these have been very artistically decorated.
For box-kites with bands as a part of their construction, the banding
designs seem more consistent, and so are used more. See Figs. 127-133.
Fish, bird, butterfly, boy, man, and clown kites and all forms of
representative kites require considerable brush work. Fig. 134 is a
beautiful brown kite all decorated with the brush. The school building
in the center was painted with water colors. The fish kite, Fig. 135,
is all hand work. Fig. 136 is the head for a dragon kite and should
have considerable fierceness. Fig. 137 has the decorative feature
in carefully planned lettering which possesses a good space filling
quality.
[Illustration: FIG. 118.]
[Illustration: FIG. 122.]
[Illustration: FIG. 120.]
[Illustration: FIG. 121.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 123, 124, 125, 126.]
[Illustration: FIG. 129.]
[Illustration: FIG. 127.]
[Illustration: FIG. 128.]
Some very satisfactory results are obtained by using good colors, say
blue and black, relieved with gilt. Red and white makes a pleasing
combination, also red and black. A circle divided into three parts
presents a little problem in color harmony analysis. There are three
primary colors: red, yellow, and blue. We may use blue in a color
scheme. Combining the other two colors, red and yellow, we get orange.
Orange is called the complement of blue, but orange is too strong, and
a better color harmony is formed by the addition of some of the third
color, the blue to the orange, which will give a brown. Now brown and
blue make a better color harmony than orange and blue. So it runs, two
primary colors give a secondary, but the colors are more pleasing when
subdued with the third color or by the addition of grey or white. Red
and olive will need dividing paths of some strong color, black or
white. When gilt is used it must be edged with black or some very dark
color or it loses its effectiveness. While orange is too strong for
combination with blue, it is good with black. When yellow is used with
the purples it should be a modest yellow.
[Illustration: FIGS. 130, 131, 132, 133.]
[Illustration: FIG. 134.]
[Illustration: FIG. 135.]
Just as in landscape where the highlights are warm colors, we seek a
cool color for shadows, and vice versa, so with color combination we
strike across the color circle and choose a warm and cool color for
balance. Some of the analogous hues are very pleasing, but unless
quite a little variation of color is used, the design soon loses out
in the distance. Browns, greens, reds, blues, etc., may be used in
their individual color schemes, but the throwing in of some opposite
color has a spicing up effect that is helpful. A dark brown, medium
brown, a dull yellow, and a light but not brilliant yellow, give a good
combination. Some color schemes that are very beautiful for rugs and
interior decoration do not carry far enough to be used on a kite. Some
very brilliant colors that might shock us close by, are charming when
far up in the air.
But this is not a treatise on color work, and the subject is so
great, that we must leave it here. Sometimes striped effects are
made with gummed papers similar to passe-partout. The little mirrors
mentioned are such as are used on gowns and draperies. They are set
in little rims of light brass and with a good allowance of paste may
be stuck sufficiently well to any portion of the kite to hold during
a tournament. The mirrors might be found at Chinese stores. Whirling
devices, to be treated in a following chapter, may also be used for
ornamentation. Tassels, streamers, and banners all serve a purpose of
artistic makeup when properly used.
[Illustration: FIG. 136.]
[Illustration: FIG. 137.]
CHAPTER VIII.
MESSENGERS.
[Illustration: FIG. 138.]
All are more or less familiar with the piece of paper with a hole in
it that is slipped over the string of a kite high in the air. The
wind catches it and whirls it along, until it finally reaches its
destination, the kite. Sometimes urgent business demands several
communications to the kite, so several pieces of paper are seen
whirling at various distances from the boy, making their way, now
slowly, now faster, overtaking, falling behind and so on until they
fulfill their mission. Such is the usual kite messenger.
[Illustration: FIG. 139.]
[Illustration: FIG. 141.]
[Illustration: FIG. 142.]
[Illustration: FIG. 140.]
=A clever little messenger= was described by Nungent in _St. Nicholas,_
for October, 1900. This has been modified and used at a number of kite
tournaments. It is in the form of a little yacht, and has a beam on
which is attached two pulleys under which the kite line runs, a mast
that carries the sail and that also extends downward thru the hull to
carry a weight that holds the yacht upright. The mast slants backward
a little so as to brace against the pull of the sail. The sail is held
up by a string that is attached to an easy trip, and when released the
sail drops and the yacht returns down the kite line to the operator by
gravity. Fig. 138 shows a complete model with sail up as it appears on
the up trip. Fig. 139 shows the various parts: the beam, _a_, is made
of a light wood, ¼” × ½” × 15”, portions are cut away to reduce weight;
the mast _b_, is round, ¼” in diameter at bottom, tapering to a point
at the top, is 29½” long, 9” below the beam and 20” above; the mast is
lashed to the side of the beam; _c_ and _d_ are yard arms, _c_ being
16” and _d_ 14” long and both about ⅛” to 3/16” thru; _c_ is lashed
above the beam, and _d_ is hung by a thread 15” higher up. A thread
is run from each end of both yard arms to the top of the metal loop
supporting the back pulley wheel. The threads are for the purpose
of preventing twisting of the sail. The sail is of some light soft
material that is very pliable in the breeze. Some use silk, others soft
cotton, and some paper. I used a Chinese tissue paper sail and found
it very satisfactory; it lasted several seasons. The strong way of the
paper should be put on up and down. The sail is pasted or sewed to the
yard arms. The sail line is a piece of linen thread that is fastened
to the middle of the upper yard arm, passing thru a loop made of small
wire, _u_, which is lashed to the mast, see Fig. 140. The line then
passes to the eye of the wire forming the trip on the side of the beam,
see Fig. 141. _t_ is a small nail in the side of the beam _a_; _m_ is
a long slim wire nail with an eye bent at the top and two bends at
right angles about half way down. A piece of small spring brass wire
will do as well as the slim nail. A small round wooden stick, _e_, not
larger than ⅛” at the largest end and about 14” long lies loosely in
the screw-eyes, _r_ and _s_, under the beam. The end of the hook that
the sail line is fastened to passes down thru a small hole in the end
of the small stick _e_. A weight, _p_, is secured to the lower end of
the mast to prevent overturning of the yacht, and a piece of light
cardboard is used for the hull.
=The pulley wheels= can be turned on a lathe or small metal ones,
especially aluminum can be used. Strips of tin make good frames for the
wheels, and are attached to both sides of the beams. If wooden wheels
are used, care should be taken to see that the holes are in the center.
Wire nails make good axles. The kite line is liable to jump out the
grooves of the wheels, so small screw-eyes placed in the beam just in
front and behind each wheel will keep the kite line in place. It may be
an advantage to press the eye together some so as to make an elongated
hole, Fig. 142. Some care will be necessary to see that the screw-eyes
are screwed in just the right distance so as to prevent the string from
resting on the screw-eyes instead of the grooved wheels.
[Illustration: FIG. 144.]
[Illustration: FIG. 145.]
[Illustration: [TN: Image missing] FIG. 143.]
=The Release.= The sail is tripped by the stick, _e_, being pushed
against an obstruction of cardboard fastened perhaps three hundred feet
from the kite, see Fig. 143. The reason for placing it away from the
kite is that when the weight comes on the kite line, the last part of
the trip is very steep; by placing the obstruction some distance from
the kite this difficulty is largely overcome.
As a final warning, the sail line should just be tight enough to hold
the sail in place while going up and not tight enough to prevent easy
tripping when _e_ touches the obstruction disk. Some put on elastic
bands to pull the sail down quickly when it is tripped. The nearer
the sail can float out straight behind on the return trip, the less
resistance there will be to the breeze. Some even go so far as to have
a little rolling up device for the sail. A thread should be attached to
the beam and to the little rod _e_ to prevent its falling out on the
down trip.
The Chinese and Japanese sometimes have little messengers that are
released when a punk burns down so as to burn off a supporting thread.
This might be applied to parachutes too. Another good device but which
is not self-propelling on the upward trip is the trolley car, Fig. 144.
The car is pulled up the kite line to a trip, when it is released and
returns by gravity. The pulley block is tied into the kite line, Fig.
145. The line below the block passes thru the car under a little roller
on the inside of the car at each end. The car can be made up of any
light material, but need not be as light as self propelled devices, the
weight being an advantage on the downward run. The line that pulls the
car up passes around the grooved pulley, thru the guides in the pulley
block and one end goes to the car while the other goes to the operator.
A release is necessary, and perhaps a little sharp blade like a safety
razor blade will be as effective as any, Fig. 146. In Fig. 147 another
trip is shown in which a wire is bent, as at _a_. This wire passes up
thru the upper portion of the roof at _b_, and passes thru screw-eyes
_c_ and _d_; _d_ is bent forward. The lower portion of the wire as
represented is much longer than the upper, and when it touches the
pulley block is pushed back, and the shorter portion is pushed back of
screw-eye _d_, which releases the small ring, _e_, to which the pulling
line to the operator is attached, and also sets free the car to run
down the kite line. This last is not a difficult attachment and seems a
little more scientifically mechanical.
[Illustration: FIG. 146.]
[Illustration: FIG. 147.]
There are other ways of effecting the release. A good pulling kite is
necessary, as in the excitement of pulling up the car, more strain is
put on the kite than one would realize. If a race is on, a fishing
reel would be an advantage. This last messenger is not limited to the
street car, but the form might be a locomotive and train, an automobile
or an air ship. The latter might have adjustable wings so as to be
open to the breeze on the up trip and so be self propelling as in the
yacht, and by releasing that which holds the wings open, they will
close up, and the messenger would be ready for the down trip. In the
messenger races, it is necessary to measure the string. At a tournament
it is necessary to do this beforehand. It is not necessary, but more
interesting, to have all the contestants operating at the same time. In
case all cannot operate together, each can be timed. Some very comical
devices might be devised as messengers, not so much for speed as for
amusement. Certain motions might be developed that would add much to
the entertainment of all.
CHAPTER IX.
MOVING DEVICES.
Most of the moving devices on kites are operated best by means of
windmills. The windmill can be placed back of the kite out of sight.
Various movements can be devised such as opening and shutting of eyes
and mouth and moving of ears. Feet and hands can be made to dangle
without any device. The windmill can also be used for decorative
purposes.
[Illustration: FIG. 148.]
=Windmills.= There are two general kinds of windmills. Those turning
from left to right and vice versa, and those turning fore and back. The
last named type is used for eyes that turn. The eyes are set in little
rims of some stiff material, a thin piece of bamboo, shaving, or stiff
cardboard. Holes are cut in the covering of the kite and these rims are
pasted in so as to stand edgewise. These rims prevent the interference
of any obstruction to the revolving eyes. The eye may be set in place
by means of a wire running thru each side of the rim and thru the
eye. The eye has a smaller rim on which two half circles of paper are
pasted, see Fig. 148. A little paper wound into a little ball would be
made by the Chinese boys, but a glass bead will answer to keep the eye
away from the rim of the opening. The two semicircles of paper are on
the two halves of the eye. In Fig. 148, _a_ is on the upper half of the
front side while the other semicircle, _b_, is on the lower half of
the back. Sometimes little mirrors are pasted to the eyes, as at _m_,
to reflect the light as they spin around, which they certainly do, if
nicely set in their places. Some use considerable black on one half
and white on the other, giving a blinking effect. This same kind of
revolving disk is sometimes used on wires or cord to the outside of the
kite, see Fig. 134.
[Illustration: FIG. 149.]
[Illustration: FIG. 150.]
[Illustration: FIG. 151.]
[Illustration: FIG. 152.]
=The revolving device=, while not as familiar as our little windmills,
is more easily secured in position but it is not impossible and in fact
is not a very difficult task to fasten the windmills. The windmills
can be made of stiff paper, any stiff cover paper will do; they spin
well and are very light. They are usually made of a square piece of
paper which is cut on the diagonal nearly to the center, Fig. 149;
one of the points of each section is then brought a little past the
center and a pin pushed thru, Fig. 150. These little whirligigs can be
attached with the pin to the framework of the kite at various places.
Larger mills can be made of stiffer paper, as bristol board, but the
larger sizes will need more anchorage. The wheel will need an axle of
wire and to secure it, a paper, perhaps several, will need to be pasted
to the wheel and on the wire to prevent its flopping over. The wheels
are made from a circular piece and are slitted from the circumference
to near to the center and the sections are curved by drawing the paper
over a pencil or similar object until the right curvature is obtained,
Fig. 151. All the sections of a wheel are curved the same way but where
there are more than one, part should turn to the right and the others
to the left. The framework supporting the axle should reach across the
opening and there should be a strip on each side as shown in Fig. 152.
If the fans will not remain curved, a wire can be run around the outer
edge, thus keeping the fans in place and at the proper angle. Other
windmills are made with wooden axles that have little diagonal cuts to
receive pieces of thin stiff cardboard as fans. These can usually be
purchased, but they can also be made; Fig. 153 has one fan removed.
Make a small block and with small saw, make little cuts on the diagonal
and set the fans in with glue. Some make little windmills of aluminum,
which are similar to the ones made of light cardboard. Windmills can
be applied in many ways; for example, they may represent wheels on
an automobile kite, Fig. 154, in which the tires are large and the
windmill serves as the center of the wheel. When turning around it
cannot be seen that the tire is not turning. Another wheel is shown at
a in which small slanting fans are attached.
[Illustration: FIG. 153.]
The most difficult part in making the auto kite is to keep it light and
in poise. It will readily be seen that the automobile is a triangular
box-kite. The hood of the engine should be open at both ends, with
string across to represent screen. The hood instead of being a dead
weight will have considerable lifting power, being part of a barrel
kite. A framework is shown in Fig. 155. The top of the auto might be
black or tan, the body red, black, grey, green or brown, the tires
light tan, and the moving part of the wheels light yellow.
[Illustration: FIGS. 154, 155.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 156, 157.]
[Illustration: FIG. 158.]
The steamboat kite, Figs. 156 and 157, is another application of the
moving wheel but this construction is simpler and the attachment of
wheel is better. In this model a part of the wheel is shielded from the
breeze, so the uneven pressure causes it to revolve. This is a very
feasible and interesting problem. Fig. 158 shows a kite with a wagging
head above it. When we understand this device, we should be able to
plan many others. The windmill is set in the open part of the kite.
Two cross-sticks are used so it is quite easy to attach a vertical
piece to the two for support of the aluminum wheel. A little hub has a
groove in it that a cord belt runs in, and from that to another grooved
wheel to the back of the kite, Fig. 159. A lath nail cut off for a
small crank pin, _j_, is located near the outer edge of this grooved
wheel. A vertical lever, _h_, with axis at _i_, has an elongated hole
at the lower end that works over the crank-pin and as _k_ revolves, the
lever operates from side to side. The hole must be long enough for the
crank-pin to reach its highest and lowest point easily. The elongated
hole can be effected by extending a wire loop down from the end of the
vertical lever to work on the crank-pin. The wire should be lashed with
linen thread to the vertical lever and coated over with glue. An object
can be used on the upper end, such as a head, a flag, etc. In the same
manner, hands and feet may be extended and withdrawn, a turtle might be
made to draw in head and feet and many other interesting operations,
but in all of these the machinery must work easily, must not lop over
against anything else and above all we must remember not to load down
our kite with weight or overbalance it with undue leverage at any part
of the kite.
[Illustration: FIG. 159.]
[Illustration: FIG. 160.]
[Illustration: FIG. 161.]
Another way of attaching to windmill is to make the wire axle long
enough to pass thru and at the back bend into a crank, Fig. 160. The
lever _h_ would work direct on this crank as it does on the crank-pin
in the device with the second grooved pulley, _k_, Fig. 159. To make
the head go up and down, use a round hole instead of the elongated ones
in the vertical shaft. A loop of wire, Fig. 161, should hold the upper
part of the vertical lever in place, and in case of the head bobbing
up and down, the lever is not attached at _i_, Fig. 159, but the loop,
Fig. 161, must not be omitted.
=Other Devices.= But windmills are not the only means of operating
moving parts of a kite. An extra line to the ground will give
opportunity to the kite flyer to open and shut eyes and mouth and move
ears at will. Ears could be made to grow a foot and then be drawn back
by light elastic bands. The mouth might open and a red tongue run out,
or a pocket in the mouth might be turned inside out, thus releasing
a shower of bits of paper, white, colored, gilt, and silver. Let the
imagination play for a time, then set the inventive machinery of the
brain to work and “watch us grow.”
CHAPTER X.
SUSPENDED FIGURES AND APPLIANCES.
These devices are usually suspended from the kite line. It is necessary
to have enough suspension cords attached to prevent twisting up with
the main line. Most of the devices will float out and have some lifting
power of their own, but some will require a kite that can sustain some
weight, in some cases a pound or more.
[Illustration: FIG. 163.]
[Illustration: FIG. 162.]
=Flags and Banners.= One of the prettiest attachments is the American
flag. This can be attached in two ways: first by means of a vertical
stick of some weight, Fig. 162, and second by using the horizontal
stick, as in Fig. 163. A pleasing trick is to have the flag folded (do
not wind on the stick) and covered, tied loosely with bow-knots that
are easily untied, and when the flag is well up, the tripping string is
pulled and the flag released. The string of the bow-knot passes down
the kite line thru little loops of wire attached to the main line to
prevent the tripping string from getting twisted therein. If two are
operating, one can stand at a little distance so as not to get the two
strings twisted, and thus avoid the wire loops.
[Illustration: FIGS. 164, 165, 166, 167.]
Banners are used sometimes for schools, sometimes for advertising and
sometimes for just no particular purpose but the pleasure of doing it.
A few banners are shown: Fig. 164 represents the Grand Avenue School,
Fig. 165 the Hobart Boulevard School, Fig. 166, Vermont Avenue, and
Fig. 167, the Tenth Street School. Fig. 168 shows how the banners are
attached.
[Illustration: FIG. 168.]
[Illustration: FIG. 169.]
=Wireless Telegraphy.= The wireless has a great attraction for most
boys. Some attach antennae to the kite, others drop a number of wires
from the kite line, as in Fig. 169. A stick is suspended similar to
a banner, except that it requires only two suspension cords; another
stick hangs by the wires about ten feet below, and below this the
wires come together and a wire follows the kite line to the receiver
and to the ground. Caution is here given against the use of a wire
kite line. One boy tried this and when the kite lowered in a lull of
the breeze the wire crossed the trolley line and in the mix-up the boy
became entangled in the line by attempting to get his kite up again,
and received quite a shock; but there was no serious results. His
instrument and attachments were working splendidly. The winding of the
coil is a very good problem for any boy.
[Illustration: FIG. 170.]
=Photography.= Some boys are interested in photography, and the kite
gives opportunity for taking bird’s-eye views. The kodak must rest
on a framework and the tripping line be so attached as not to cause
the instrument to swing when the shutter is snapped. The tripping can
be accommodated by means of the rear suspension cord, Fig. 170. The
shutter should trip very easily so as to cause as little swinging as
possible. An extension of the lever might be an advantage. The two
sticks of the framework should be halved together so as to bring the
upper surfaces level. A screw-eye placed in the cross-stick directly
below the tripping lever holds the tripping string so that it draws on
the camera in line with its own seating on the framework, and causes
the minimum amount of swaying. Figs. 171 and 172 were taken on a kite
line that was sent up from the Y. M. C. A. building. The speck of white
shown on the roof near the ventilator is the operator. Figs. 173 and
174 were taken by a twelve year old boy and while not as high as the
first is a very good start.
[Illustration: FIG. 171.]
[Illustration: FIG. 172.]
[Illustration: FIG. 173.]
[Illustration: FIG. 174.]
=Signaling.= Signaling can be done by means of a red and white flag,
and the code used by the wig wag system, or one similar can be used.
Fig. 175 shows the rod on which the two signals are used. Screw-eyes
would be better than pulley wheels as there would be no slipping
out of the grooves, and there would not be enough friction to be
objectionable. The cord operating the two signals should be continuous,
passing from the ground to one signal, thru the screw-eye above, then
thru the other screw-eye to the second signal and from that back to
the ground. The distance from the signal to the screw-eye should be
convenient for manipulation by the operator, for while one flag is
up the other is down, and this distance corresponds to the pull and
relaxation of the hands of the operator. The signals can be red and
white flags, or a device like Fig. 176, in which a full surface of
color would always be in view. Sometimes a flag flying directly toward
or away from you is not a very large object to see. This last device
is made of two good sized cardboard disks, each cut half way thru,
Fig. 177, and set at right angles to each other. The red and white is
placed there to help in location of the other signals, as to up and
would read, red and light, that is _r_ is red or right, while _l_ is
left or light. So the same code operates for both. The center black
square down and right and left. The code given is one that we have
used somewhat, but not many have mastered it as yet. It can be used for
night signalling, as red and white or light, would read _r_ and _l_ too.
[Illustration: FIG. 175.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 176, 177.]
We will illustrate with the letter _b_ The code reads L R R L. At night
this would be flashed: light, then red, red again, then light. On the
kite signal we would run up the light signal, then the red, red again,
and then the light. Just so with the wig wag. The wig wag flag would
be waved to left then two to the right then one to the left and back
again to center. If we were spelling out _B O Y_, a little pause would
be made after _B_ had been signalled, then left, right, or light, red
would be signalled, and after a slight pause again, the three reds or
three waves of the wig wag flag to the right. A little longer pause
between words and then the next word would follow.
A LL J LLRR S LRL 2 LLLL
B LRRL K LRLR T L 3 RRRL
C RLR L LLR U RRL 4 LLLR
D LLL M RLLR V RLLL 5 RRLL
E RL N RR W RRLR 6 LLRR
F LLLR O LR X LRLL 7 RLLL
G RRLL P RLRL Y RRR 8 LRRR
H RLL Q RLRR Z LLLL 9 RLLR
I R R LRR 1 RRRR 0 LR
=Swings.= A swing can be attached to the kite line by six suspension
cords, Fig. 178. The boy in overalls is a pleasing figure, Fig. 179.
The framework is of light kite sticks and the figure is cut out of
light cardboard, but must be reinforced with light sticks across the
body to prevent collapse. A stick across back of the arms and two down
the legs from this will be sufficient. The sunbonnet baby is good, Fig.
180. The sunbonnet in white and the dress red with pink slippers is
effective.
[Illustration: FIGS. 178, 179, 180, 181.]
The trapeze performer, Fig. 181, must be placed edgewise in the swing,
and the lower stick must be made so it will revolve. The grooved pulley
is stationary on the lower rod and should have a good sized grove so as
to accommodate two or three turns of the operating line, which should
run double to the ground. It is well to have such lines fastened to a
stick so that the hand may hold in the center between the two, see Fig.
182. By a twist of the wrist the ends of the stick can be forced to and
fro which turns the rod that the performer is on, forward or back. This
will suggest other forms of trapeze performers.
[Illustration: FIGS. 182, 183.]
Color devices and optical illusions could also be arranged. A color
device like Fig. 183 would be an interesting study on the ground,
and would be very interesting up a little way on the kite line. Each
section, as _a_, is independent of the others, and the sections should
alternate as to directions, the first going to the right, the next to
the left and so on. It is as easy to make them go in one direction
as the other. A vertical wire reaches from top to bottom of the
framework and beads should be placed between sections, and to the
outside at the top and bottom. The colors of _a_ are red, yellow,
and blue, but white could take the place of some color, and black of
another section. As the sections are not likely to turn with the same
rapidity, there should be a constant change of combination of colors.
Light forms that fill out with the breeze can be made of tissue paper
and attached to the kite line. Ugly monsters with large mouths and
highly colored bodies with heavy lines on them to outline scales are
very striking. It is necessary to have these open at both ends or they
will be torn open, also it is best to have a light framework about
the head to keep that in shape; the rest of the body will usually be
taken care of. Long serpents and fish are good for the purpose. If the
grotesque does not appeal to one, long and short streamers can be used
in abundance. A kite line decorated with pointed streamers of various
colors would be very beautiful. Japanese lanterns might be festooned
along the line, and to reduce the weight, the bottom could be removed.
If kite flying is indulged in at night, fewer lanterns can be used, and
these lighted.
CHAPTER XI.
BALLOONS AND PARACHUTES.
=Balloons= that really go up are always attractive but by thoughtful
planning they can be made much more beautiful. A nice white balloon
against a blue sky is very pleasing, but most boys like more color.
The hot air balloons are made of tissue paper, and consist of an
inverted bag with a light piece of reed at the bottom to keep the mouth
open. The most successful shape is shown by Fig. 184. This need not
be perfectly round on top, but may be pointed, as in Fig. 185. If the
balloon is too nearly round like a ball, it is liable to turn over and
allow the hot air to escape. If the balloon is too long and slender
vertically, it would probably flounder around in the breeze too much.
There is not the variety possible in balloons that there is in kites,
as no ballast can be attached that is of much service. In some shapes
only a very little is necessary to keep them in an upright position,
in this case a little ballast will suffice, and a number of shapes can
be made with this addition. The ballast should be suspended by strings
from the reed at the bottom, see Fig. 186. The ballast may only be a
piece of cardboard, but in some cases that little is very necessary.
Some of the boys try models of the dirigible, but usually they get
something too large for hot air manipulation. The dirigible is more of
a cigar-shaped balloon. Strings run down to a framework that carries
the propeller, which is a paper windmill in this case, but it is very
difficult to keep these representative parts light enough to be carried
by the hot air medium.
In making a balloon like Fig. 184 the covering is made in tapering
sections. The pattern given is for a five-foot balloon. The width at
the lower end of the section is five inches, three feet farther up
fifteen inches, and it comes to a point at the top. The edges of these
sections form a long curve, Fig. 187. Five feet would require just a
little over two lengths of tissue paper. There are seven sections in
the balloon.
[Illustration: FIGS. 184, 185, 186.
FIGS. 187, 188, 189, 190.
FIGS. 191, 192.]
=Inflation.= Two methods are used to fill the balloons. A wire is
stretched across the frame of the mouth of the balloon and another at
right angles to it. A ball of excelsior having been soaked in paraffin
is attached at the crossing of the two. The ball should be flattened
into a disc about two inches in diameter and one inch in thickness.
Holding the balloon up by the top the paraffin disc is lighted with a
parlor match. It burns and creates heat that collects in the upper part
of the balloon. When it is filled so that it lifts a little and wants
to get away it is released carrying up the heat generator with it.
The paraffin ball continues to furnish hot air until it burns out. A
balloon so equipped will travel several blocks, high up in the air. The
paraffin ball is also wound about with a very fine wire which is also
used to attach the ball to the wires across the opening of the balloon.
It will be seen at once that a good sized opening is necessary and in
this design, the reed band is ten inches in diameter.
The other method of filling is by means of a stove pipe furnace or
some similar device, but in this case all the heating is done on the
ground. A hole is dug in the ground and the stovepipe is banked in as
a chimney. A fire is built in the hole and the hot air goes up thru
the pipe to the balloon that is suspended over it. If it was not for
the stove pipe the blaze would ignite the walls of the balloon. Some
quite large balloons have been sent up in this way. A piece of tin or
sheet iron is good to make a cover for the hole in the ground so as to
prevent the dirt from falling in on the fire. Some use a little oil on
the fire, but there should not be too much else the blaze will reach
up thru the pipe so far as to burn up the balloon. It is well to have
a cord above so as to hold the balloon up and if it is too high to
hold with the hand, a pole with a wire on the end of it that could be
readily released might be used. As the bag gets inflated it is best to
remove the pole and hold to the bottom by the hands.
In pasting the pieces of paper together, there should be about ¼”
laps. Care must be observed in the pasting that there are no detached
places, places where the paste does not stick well, as the hot air will
escape. In the model given, one section was blue, two white, one red,
and three white, making seven in all. Sometimes the colors are worked
in differently. Half of a section will be one color, and the other half
another, and next to each will be placed some contrasting color. Still
further breaking up can be done until quite a design is worked out.
It is possible to decorate a plain balloon with surface design, but
it must be bold and not over done. An example or two may be helpful,
Figs. 188, 189, 190. Yellow and black, black and red, purple and white,
green and white, and many other good combinations can be selected, but
two or three colors are better than many. The best grade of tissue
paper is very much superior to the cheap, as the tendency of the cheap
to split out is very unsatisfactory and there are thin porous spots.
The French tissues, so called, are the best, and they come in many
shades of good colors.
=Parachutes= are other forms of balloon. They do not ascend from the
ground, but are released up in the air and float downward. Sometimes
a current of air will catch one and carry it far up and away. They
are made like an umbrella covering, sometimes in sections and again
in one piece, Figs. 191 and 192. When made in sections, they are very
much like the upper one-third of a balloon. They are made from the
size of your hand to beauties that are eight feet across; when made
of brilliantly colored paper, they are very interesting. They have
a weight suspended underneath to keep them upright in the descent.
Parachutes are usually taken up on a kite line and are released well
up in the air. The usual method of shaking them off the line is not
as good as a definite release by a tripping string from the ground.
If large ones are used, one at a time is sufficient and is simple to
release. The parachute is tied with a bow-knot to the kite line with
the extra string and as this string is pulled the knot comes untied and
the parachute is released. When smaller ones are used they can be tied
in a series and the lowest down on the string or the highest can be
released, then the next, and so on. The same string can be used to tie
on a long series.
No matter how small the parachute, it must have its suspension strings
and weight. We have tried parachute showers that have only been a
partial success, thus far. A bunch of these little parachutes each
with its own string tied to the kite line, have been released, but
in pulling them up they are so liable to get twisted up, that when
released they cling together. If they could be carefully laid in some
kind of an apron that would protect them from the breeze, I am sure
they might be tumbled out so as to separate without entanglement. It is
a very pretty sight to see a large bunch turned loose, each spreading
its tiny night cap to the air as it starts downward. They should be
of all colors, and for this purpose the one piece models and one foot
in diameter are best. There is always a scramble for the souvenir
parachutes when they are released. If one had a rubber stamp outfit, it
would be interesting to print something on their cover. Thread would be
used for the suspension cords and perhaps a shingle nail for the weight.
Another method of release given elsewhere is sometimes used by the
Chinese and Japanese, is effected by using a lighted punk such as used
to set off firecrackers; when the punk burns down far enough, it burns
off a supporting thread, thus releasing the object held.
CHAPTER XII.
REELS.
=Reels= are very convenient for most kite flying and quite necessary
for high flying where so much string must be let out and wound in
again, but an absolute necessity for events where racing is an
important feature. Many devices have been used at our tournaments
and some have been very clever. A simple and effective reel can be
rigged up in a kerosene box. The box is long enough to allow a seat
for the kite flyer, a foot brake can be arranged, and an all around
satisfactory reel can be made at light expense. Fig. 193 shows such
a reel fully equipped. A portion of the top is cut away so as to
expose the spool of the reel, it being necessary to see if the line is
winding properly, to see if it is nearly off, and to watch for knots
or entanglements. A measuring device might also be attached, similar
to cyclometers used on bicycles. The end of the box is partially cut
away but not the full width of the box, the portions remaining at the
sides preventing the kite line from getting off the ends of the spools.
The portion remaining should be a little wider than the thickness of
the flanges of the spool. The axle will usually be a broomstick owing
to the ease with which it may be obtained and being hardwood, is very
satisfactory. A piece of pipe can be used but is hard to drill thru for
the pins that hold spool and crank to axle, also the holes that take
pins on each side of box to prevent slipping endwise. Iron washers are
used on the outside of box and between spool ends and inside of box.
[Illustration: FIG. 193.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 194, 195, 196.]
=The crank= is shown in the drawing and needs no special directions.
=The pin holding the crank to the= axle might be a small bolt with a
nut, which adds strength in the prevention of splitting of the end of
the wood. A good spool for the reel might be found at a hardware store.
Chains come on well made spools that are excellent for reels. These can
be fastened to axle by slanting pins; nails will answer if they are not
left out too far thru the outside of the flanges of the spool; also
pins may be put down thru the drum part of the spool thru the axle. In
this case small holes would have to be drilled from opposite sides of
the drum.
Other drums can be made similar to Fig. 194. The axle is secured to two
wooden disks and the center is built up of other pieces as in Fig. 195,
or by wooden rods as in Fig. 196.
[Illustration: FIG. 197.]
=A brake= is a great convenience when letting out string, as the reel
sometimes runs ahead of the kite and so entangles the string; by a
little pressure of the foot on the brake, the unwinding ceases. The
brake should act directly on the edge of the flange of the spool. The
lever of the brake would pass thru the left side of the box, not more
than two inches up from the bottom, Fig. 197. In case the spool is too
short for the width of the box, wooden blocks can be used to fill in
the space, but the opening in the end of the box that the kite line
passes thru must be no wider than the distance between the flanges.
[Illustration: FIG. 198.]
[Illustration: FIG. 199.]
Another axle that has been mentioned is made of pipe. The pipe can be
one inch in diameter, and must be drilled for the pins that fasten the
spool to it. A three-eighths or five-sixteenths hole can be drilled
near the end of the pipe outside the box, in which an iron rod is
riveted with its outer end bent at a right angle. The rod forms the
crank of the reel. If one has access to a heavy metal vise, the axle
and crank can be made of one piece, Fig. 198. If one wishes the reel
to run very easily, a washer that fits the axle nicely can be fastened
to the side of the box with two screws, Fig. 199. The hole in the wood
should be a little larger than the hole in the washer, thus making the
washer a bearing for the axle. I have one that turns very freely this
way. The wires running down to pegs in the ground, shown in Fig. 193,
are for the purpose of anchoring the reel when the pull of the kite is
on.
[Illustration: FIGS. 200, 201, 202.]
Thus far the box has been the real support, but other frames can be
made as well, Fig. 200. The brake is applied at the rear on this
reel, and is operated either by hand or foot. The heavy wires are for
anchoring purposes, otherwise the construction may be the same as in
Fig. 193.
Another way of securing the metal axle to the wooden spool is as
follows: Drill two holes thru the pipe just far enough apart to allow
spool to fit between. The holes should be just large enough to allow
a 16d or 20d nail to go thru. Cut off the heads of the nails, fit in
holes with spool on axle, and with good sized staples fasten pins
(nails) to sides of spools, see Fig. 201. For the crank, a ⅜” hole can
be drilled at the outer end of axle to receive a ⅜” rod bent at one
end to form the handle. The end of the crank that passes thru the axle
might be threaded about 1¼” so as to put a nut on each side, see Fig.
202.
[Illustration: FIG. 203.]
=A Large Reel.= The two general plans given above are for comparatively
small reels. Fig. 203 shows a reel that winds in over four feet at
a turn. It has but one bearing, being attached to the standard by a
large bolt for an axle. It would be well to have a piece of pipe just
large enough to allow the bolt to turn freely and just long enough to
reach thru the wheel as a bushing, for this is much more like a wheel.
The sides or flanges are made of two ply wood, in one-half of the
thickness the grain runs one way and the other half at right angles
to it, so that it prevents warping and is not liable to spit. There
is no real drum, but small wooden rods, or slim bolts, hold the sides
together, also apart, and are set about two inches in from the outside
circumference. In the drawing, the wheel being 18” in diameter, the
bolts or rods are in a circle 14” in diameter. The bolts or rods should
be about eight in number. If wood rods, doweling, are used, they would
be glued at both ends and no other posts would be necessary, but with
the bolts, posts will be needed to prevent the sides from coming
together. Four posts will be sufficient. No crank is necessary on this
reel as a handle can be fastened to the side of one of the large discs.
A brake can be attached underneath as in the last reel. The axle must
be made very rigid in the standard as it has to support all the pull of
the reel. This is a first class reel for fast work.
[Illustration: FIG. 204.]
[Illustration: FIG. 205.]
Discs can be obtained at some box factories for seven and ten cents
apiece for sizes 15½” and 19½” in diameter, respectively. They are
made of two ply wood and make good reels. A good way to get the
holes opposite is to clamp the two discs together and bore all the
holes thru both at the same time. Others make reels very much like
our grandmothers’ yarn reels. Two arms are halved together and short
cross-pieces are attached to the ends, Fig. 204. For speed they are
made with long arms and take up a good length of string at a single
turn.
Another way of building up a reel is shown in Fig. 205. A square block
has fans nailed or screwed to each side. The ends of the fans are
shaped out to receive the kite line. The end of the square center piece
can be rounded so as to pass thru a round hole of the framework, or a
hole can be bored thru the square piece and a pipe or rod inserted as
with the others. For heavy work where large string pulling kites are
used, geared reels are practical. Fig. 206 shows a picture of a boy and
his reel rigged up with a chain drive, utilizing parts of a bicycle.
This was devised for speed, but it needs flanges at the ends of the
drum. If one wished to put time enough on a reel, he could rig one up
out of parts of a bicycle that could be manipulated by the feet. A
coaster brake would let out the string and the winding in could be made
as swift as any kite would stand. The wheel used for the drum portion
would need quite a little modification to prevent the string from
jumping off. As the usual frame would not admit of any widening, some
additional framework would also be necessary to make it stable enough.
If one is going to do much kite flying, it pays to take time to make
a good reel, not the last one described necessarily, as that is more
for speed, and is not as convenient as a number of others, but a good
simple reel is a great satisfaction.
[Illustration: FIG. 206.]
CHAPTER XIII.
AEROPLANE MODELS.
=Aeroplane Models= are small sized aeroplanes. They may be divided into
four classes:
A. Small models of large machines, made for the purposes of
construction.
B. Small models of large machines made for the purpose of flying as
kites.
C. Gliders.
D. Self-propelling models.
It will be seen at a glance that this chapter should be expanded into a
book by itself. Mr. Collins has written an excellent book, “The Second
Book of Model Aeroplanes”, on the subject, and I hope the readers of
this book will look it up, as it will be worth while. In dealing with
the subject in this chapter we can not go into it very deeply and not
many plans can be given, but we will try to touch here and there some
of the important features of construction.
I have grouped the model aeroplanes into four divisions, but before
we proceed it will be well to notice the various classes of large
machines. There is the monoplane or one plane type; the biplane or
two planes, one above the other; and the multiplanes in which several
planes are used. The first two have survived, and form the very large
percentage of all that are attempted these days. I should like to make
clear that I do not recommend, even discourage, any attempt at gliders
large enough to carry the maker, and the aeroplane in which a motor
engine is to be placed. There is too much danger connected with them,
and our lives and limbs are too precious a gift to be trifled with in
such unnecessary ventures. The little models, however, are harmless
and yet are very fascinating, even when there is no thought of their
embodiment in a large machine.
=In group A=, where the worker seeks to imitate a large machine in
miniature, the joy of the undertaking lies in the processes involving
very accurate work and nicety of finish. There is a fascination for
young people in the making of things in miniature. The models made
in group A are usually larger than in group D, as the pieces of the
framework need a little more material to work to advantage, while in D,
the parts must be kept light. Weight is not so much of an item in group
A.
[Illustration: FIG. 207.]
[Illustration: FIG. 208.]
The photograph of the Curtis model, Fig. 207, has a clock spring works
in it, but it is of no service. This is a very fine piece of work and
has been admired by many. Outside of the clock works the model is all
handmade. Little turn buckles for tightening the guy wires were made,
as well as the little metal attachments to which the ends of the guy
wires are attached. The silk covering was stretched and oiled on the
frame.
An equally well made model is shown in Fig. 208. In this monoplane all
the curving of ribs and trussing of frame were very accurately done.
It will be recognized that this is a very excellent piece of work and
the outlines of the planes are very beautiful and well proportioned.
The planes are supported at the outer ends by careful adjustment of
wires above and below the wings. Notice the two little braces above
the center of the framework to which the guy wires are attached.
Turn-buckles are used on this model also. The horizontal and vertical
planes to the rear of the model, but to the front in the picture, were
ideas original with the maker, altho I have seen pictures similar to
this since.
Some make up these models in good shape for the purpose of using them
as attractions in show windows. Merchants will sometimes give a rental
for a good model. Very often when used as a display, an electric motor
is installed in them so as to run the propellers.
=In group B=, the models are made to fly as kites. It is possible to
gain much knowledge about the motor driven models by patient study on
the aeroplane kite. The kite flying side will not help so much as the
gliding. When the aeroplane kite is well up, if the string is allowed
considerable slack, the model will glide if well balanced and if the
planes are tilted properly. Balance will be necessary both to right
and left and fore and aft. It is very interesting to get such a model
pulled well up in the air and have a release that will cut the kite
line. The punk method is good, only that we would like to have better
control of just the time for cutting loose. The punk has this advantage
however that not knowing just when it will cut loose you are held in
happy suspense, just as you wait for a bite on your fish line.
Another simple releasing device can be used: hooks are placed on the
kite at each point of attachment of the bridle, and on the end of each
string of the bridle is tied a small ring, which is to be hooked on
the hook of the kite. The hooks must bend back and downward and must
be stiff enough not to bend. Of course the kite line will have to be
kept quite taut until time for release, when, if the line is slackened
suddenly, the rings drop off, thus releasing the kite line. If it
glides well some interesting things will develop. There will be swoops
and glides, and loop the loops and all sorts of gyrations before it
reaches the ground. If one is going to make a model just to fly in the
air without the maneuvering, but to look like an aeroplane in the air,
it should have the bridle placed so as to cause the kite to stay as
near the horizontal as possible. In order to do this, the upper loop
of the bridle should be shortened or the lower one lengthened as on
a tailless or any other kite. On the tailless kite one can shift the
bridle so as to make the kite stay nearly over head, in fact I have
had them pass the zenith and dive over to the other side, and that
well up in the air. A propeller that is turned by the breeze will help
considerably in giving it a realistic touch. Fig. 99 is very good for
aeroplane kites. The side wings can be extended and modified, as in
Fig. 209, or the cross-pieces can be bowed up, as in Fig. 210. The
bridle should be attached only in two places.
[Illustration: FIGS. 209, 210, 211, 212, 213, 214, 215.]
=A biplane= is shown in Fig. 211, one with bowed cross-pieces in Fig.
212, and one with bent up tips on the upper plane in Fig. 213. The
folded paper glider made by the children soars excellently; try an
aeroplane kite on that plan, Fig. 214. Another modification of Fig. 214
is the bird aeroplane kite, Fig. 215. In this a plane is placed about
half way from front to back. The ends of the wings get their curve from
the back stick, a piece of heavy reed, and the outline of the bird is
also of reed. By drawing the shape on a board the reed can be bent to
the shape. The reed should be wet and tacks should be driven at each
side to keep the shape until dry. This kite, if well made, should glide
for a very long distance.
It would take too much space to go into details with each design, but
the drawings I think will be sufficient for most readers who may be
planning these models, especially where framework and finished kite are
both given.
CHAPTER XIV.
GLIDERS.
=In group C= is to be found the most profitable source of study for
the self-propelling model aeroplane. The glider has no motor and
no propeller, but is made on the plan of the motored model in the
construction and adjustments. The glider is usually made smaller at
first, increasing the size to the actual model later. The glider is
more useful for study, if it is made heavier in comparison with the
motored model. The glider can be thrown by the hand as if it were a
spear, Fig. 216, or it can be thrown by a rubber cord, Fig. 217, or by
a springy stick, Fig. 218.
[Illustration: FIG. 216.]
All experiments except those intended for adverse conditions, should
be made either indoors where there is no wind, or away from buildings
far enough to be out of reach of the whirls that are always present
near buildings. Heavy paper can be used for planes in some of the
experimenting, and even much may be learned by the use of paper models
thruout the whole construction, but a little stiffening with small thin
strips as reinforcement is better in most cases.
[Illustration: FIG. 217.]
For the model that is thrown like a spear from the hand, wood is used
for all parts. The spine can be ¾” × ¾” × 30”, the fore plane ¼” × 2½”
in widest part × 8”, and the rear plane ¼” × 4½” in widest part × 20”.
Bevel off the under side of the front edge of both planes. Fasten the
planes to the spine with rubber string, rubber bands will do, this
will allow easy adjustment back and forth on the spine. There are many
experiments that can be tried with this model. Move the foreplane back,
try; move back plane foreward, try; move foreplane foreward, try, and
so on. This model and all other models are just the opposite of teeter
boards. If too much pressure comes at one end, up it goes, if too much
at the other, up that end goes, while the same thing applied to the
teeter, that end goes down. It then seems clear at the start that we
must have balance fore and aft, as well as right and left, with the
kite we must balance right and left, but if the up and down does not
quite tally we can counteract by adjustment of the bridle, but on
gliders and model aeroplanes, there are no bridles. The little ship
must go “all by its lonely”.
[Illustration: FIG. 218.]
[Illustration: FIG. 219.]
Another adjustment is possible, and probably will be necessary, and
that is tipping of the planes. By the use of little wedges, the front
edges of the planes may be tilted up, and by trial we can decide
what we think the best angle, which should not be great. Possibly ¼”
might be used under the front edge. It will pay to spend much time in
experimentation on these gliders, and it should be carried on until
long graceful glides are accomplished.
It will be discovered long before this, that in a very large percentage
of cases the arrangement of planes is reversed in model aeroplanes
and the large machines. The small planes are placed forward and are
used largely as elevating surfaces. A few models have the large plane
forward. It will also be noticed in looking over plans of model
aeroplanes that a large majority are monoplanes, while in the large
machines there are more biplanes.
=Warping.= No warping of the planes is necessary in the glider that
has been discussed, but it is well in the lighter models to have some
warping called camber, in the larger planes especially. Another warping
is from end to end of the plane, that is, the ends tip upward, never
downward. Sometimes models are made with the large plane warped from
front to back, and with the small plane bent upward on each side, and
again the large plane is sometimes bent in both directions as it is
made. The last is more easily done when wire frameworks are used in
the self-propelling models. In Fig. 217 the model is made lighter, the
spine being a heavy piece of reed with a hook bent on the end and the
planes ⅛” or 1/16” veneer wood.
The sling shot device for throwing the glider is made of heavy spring
wire, and will require a strong metal vice to bend it in. A forked
stick can be used, or one can be cut out with a turning saw. Fig. 218
is quite similar to Fig. 217 in weight, but a square spine ¼” × ⅜” ×
18” with planes ⅛” or 1/16” × 2” × 6”. 2” in widest part and the other
⅛” or 1/16” × 4” × 12”. 4” in widest part. The force used to drive this
glider is given thru a springy stick of some tough wood, as oak or
hickory. The stick should be quite stiff so as to resist more pressure
before its release. A little block on the under side of the spine might
have a little hole in the back to receive a small nail in the end of
the bow stick used to throw the glider, this will prevent the bow stick
from slipping off in the throwing process.
One other glider should be mentioned, and that is one with sheet metal
planes, Fig. 219. This has advantages and disadvantages. When it
strikes hard against some object, the metal is liable to bend, also
if it is thrown violently, and should strike someone on the face or
hands it might cut. The metal surfaces can be bent into any shape. All
corners should be rounded. Some of these gliders can be thrown long
distances if properly adjusted.
After working awhile with gliders, we can try model aeroplanes that are
suited for the instalment of motors later. Everything must be made as
light and strong as possible. All kinds of ribbed surfaces, keels, and
light wire braced frameworks, are utilized. Everything that would be
used in a self-propelling model, except the propeller and motor.
Make the planes movable so they may be balanced as to pressure, by
moving them back and forth, flex more, flex less, tilt more, tilt
less, until you get a good glider out of it, then attach your motor
and propeller. Some may think best to put motor and propeller on, and
do all the experimenting, but it takes time to make a good propeller,
and the fewer jams it has the better, so it is better to do some
experimenting with the model before the propeller is added. The motor
will make practically no difference in the balance, so there would be
no advantage of putting it on for experiments in gliding.
We are now ready for some attempts on the self-propelling models.
CHAPTER XV.
MODEL AEROPLANES.
=Self-propelling air devices= must be of the lightest possible weight
and yet they must have strength. There will be no attempt to give a
great variety of model aeroplanes; but a few can be discussed, perhaps
three or four. The first is a little practice model that has been of
great service to me, both for study and for instruction to others. It
is small and will not fly far. I can wind it up and turn it loose in a
schoolroom. It hits rather hard sometimes but nothing has happened to
it beyond a broken propeller, and the rubber bands that are used to tie
the planes to the spine have been broken.
[Illustration: FIG. 220.]
In Fig. 220 the model is shown in two views, the plan and side
elevation. The planes are made of 1/16” birch veneer, but other woods
will do. The small fore plane is bent at quite a sharp angle and was
shaped as shown in Fig. 221. Steam the plane thoroly over the teakettle
and place it under pressure until dry and it will remain so bent. The
plane is also tilted up a little by means of a small wedge.
[Illustration: FIGS. 221, 222.]
[Illustration: FIG. 223.]
The spine is made of spruce and is ¼” × ¼” × 12”. The large plane has
about ⅛” camber and is bent as shown in Fig. 222. Lay a strip as thick
as the desired camber on a board that you can nail brads into. Steam
the veneer for the plane and lay in the ⅛” strip in this case about
one-third the distance back from the front edge, bend down until the
edge touches the board underneath the strip and drive brads in slanting
so as to hold it down. The brads can be bent down a little after they
are driven in. By using brads on both sides the veneer can be held down
until dry. The outline can be cut away before or after the bending.
The decoration of course is not essential, but it is interesting to
beautify it a little. The anchor block for the propeller shaft is of
wood ¼” × 1” × 1” and is glued and nailed with brads to the rear end of
the spine. A piece of tin ⅜” wide is bent about the top of the anchor
block, _f_, Fig. 223. The hole in the wood should be larger than the
propeller shaft while the hole in the tin should make a good fit. In
this way the bearing is on the tin instead of the wood, and reduces the
friction to a minimum. After the tin is on, the block should be wound
with linen thread and coated with glue or shellac.
[Illustration: FIGS. 224, 225.]
The propeller shaft is made from a bicycle spoke, Fig. 223; two of
these can be purchased for a nickel. The long nut, shown at _b_, is
cut with a metal saw in two places, giving small nuts _c_ and _d_; _c_
is used on the inside and _d_ on the outside of the propeller. The
spoke is then cut off long enough to pass thru the propeller, a glass
bead as a washer, and the anchor block, with room for a good hook on
the end for the attachment of the rubber motor. The propeller will be
discussed further in the next chapter; the only thing to be mentioned
here is the size of the blank from which it is made, which is ½” × 1” ×
4”. Another piece of the spoke is bent as in Fig. 224, and is inserted
in the fore end of the spine and bent still further into shape like
Fig. 225. This gives the other anchor hook for the rubber motor. One
other piece is the small keel shown in the side view. A groove is made
in the under side of the spine and the keel set in with glue.
I am using four rounds of 1/16” rubber string for the motor. That
makes eight strands. Six do very well. This is a very useful little
model but it will not fly over fifty feet, or mine has not, but the
fact that it does not fly far, gives you opportunity to study its
start, its landing, and its flight. The long distance models are out
of observation range so soon that we miss the chance to diagnose their
crazy symptoms, if they have any, and most of them have some.
[Illustration: FIG. 226.]
At the beginning of model aeroplane making, everyone seemed to try
to see how much surface could be exposed in the planes, now the best
models are those with as narrow planes as it is possible to use and
still support the air craft. The reason is obvious--there is so much
skin friction on broad surfaces. At the beginning, many were inclined
to scoff at the rubber band motor, but since flights have been made
considerably over a half mile, with this same power, it seems good
enough for anybody. Most of the long distance flyers have long
framework so as to accommodate long strands of rubber, which allow much
increase in the winding up of the motor.
[Illustration: FIGS. 227, 228.]
=A Good Model.= A simple and effective model is shown in Fig. 226. Lay
out a light framework, as shown in Fig. 227. It is the combination of
a tailless kite and a triangular box-kite. Three long sticks, _a_,
_b_, _c_, are used for the triangular portion and three cross-sticks,
_d_, _e_, _f_, are for the wing supports. A vertical post, _g_, about
¼” × ⅜” × 8” is used in the center of the rear (the wide part), to
stiffen the frame and give an anchorage for the propeller shaft. Four
light braces, _h_, _i_, _j_, and _k_, make it possible to use lighter
material than one would suspect for the entire framework. In a model
3’ long, _a_, _b_, and _c_, need not be larger than 3/16” square, but
there must be no split or uneven places in a stick so small. The braces
⅛” × 3/16” would be plenty large. The two upper pieces, _b_, _c_,
should be flattened on the inside of the front end so as to make them
join together, terminating in a point. The lower spine, _a_, should
be flattened on the upper side for the same reason. All three should
be glued and lashed together with linen thread. A triangular block,
_l_, should be placed about 4” back from the front end with a strong
cup-hook screwed in the side toward the rear, on which the ring of
the rubber motor is attached. The block, _l_, must be well secured to
the triangular framework with glue and thread. The cross-piece, _d_,
is 30” long and is bowed upward as is shown by Fig. 228. Piece _e_ is
24” long, 5” in front of _d_, and both are 3/16” × ¼”. ⅛” × 3/16” will
be heavy enough for _f_, and this should be bowed much more than _d_,
and _e_. It will be necessary to steam this piece a little. Chinese
rice tissue will be good for covering. Cover the underside of the two
planes, and the underside of the triangular framework which is similar
to the hull of a boat, and acts as a keel. Test out well as a glider.
Put more and less curve to bows, and experiment for poise of model. A
small piece of tin on each side of the support will give a good bearing
for the propeller shaft. The hole in the wood should be a trifle larger
than the shaft. String is run from both ends of _d_ and _e_ to the
front end of the framework but is not attached to _f_.
[Illustration: FIG. 229.]
When long models are made with single spine, they need some simple
wire supports to prevent springing up or down, and from left to right.
Fig. 229 is 4’ long and the spine is only ¼” × ¼” at the small end ¼”
× ⅜” at the larger end. A little 1/16” oak veneer cut in strips 3/16”
wide would be very serviceable for the purpose of support in trussing
the long spine. It should stand 2” above and below the spine, and the
same amount for the right and left brace, Fig. 230. The wires for these
should extend about a foot on each side of these posts, and be attached
to the spine with little tin anchors, as shown in Fig. 230, _a_.
[Illustration: FIGS. 230, 231, 232.]
The propeller shaft bearing is of metal and is lashed to the
cross-piece, called the base, Fig. 231. It is not necessary to have
two points of bearing for the shaft. The metal is about 1/16” × ¼” ×
1”, bent as in Fig. 232, and lashed to the under side of the base. The
planes are similar to those in the next model. 1” × 1½” × 7½” propeller
blanks are used. Try about fourteen strands of 1/16” string rubber for
each motor, seven rounds.
[Illustration: FIG. 233.]
=My favorite model aeroplane= is shown in Fig. 233. It had made some
very pretty flights when it took a notion to glide into a young man’s
bicycle as he was riding by. Well, there was no improvement on the
aeroplane when the chain and spokes of the bicycle were thru with it.
[Illustration: FIGS. 234, 235, 236, 237.]
The framework is light and is spread well at the rear. The two spines
are 3/16” × ¼” × 33” and they come together at the forward end, the
vertical section being ¼”. Nine inches back from the front end is a
cross-piece that is just under ⅛” in thickness, ¼” wide and 2½” long.
The cross-piece is on the upper side of the spines, and is fastened by
a small ¼” brad, is lashed with thread and coated with glue or shellac.
The other cross-piece is 1” forward from the rear end, is of the same
dimensions in cross-section as the forward piece, but is 8” long and is
secured in the same manner as the other, see Fig. 234. The framework
is further stiffened by two fine wires that run diagonally from the
ends of one cross-piece to the ends of the other. They are secured to
the inside vertical face of the spines by means of small pieces of tin
that have two small holes, one at each end, the one receives a ¼” brad
that is driven into the spine, while the wire is attached to the other
hole. The little pieces of tin are about 3/16” × ½” and are lashed to
the spine in addition to the fastening by the small brad. This kind of
fastening prevents slipping, also the cutting into the wood, either of
which would destroy the efficiency of the wire. In order to increase
the tension of the wire, a small turn-buckle is inserted, Fig. 235.
[Illustration: FIG. 238.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 239, 240.]
[Illustration: FIG. 241.]
The bearings for the propeller shafts are lashed to the outside face of
the rear end of each spine, Fig. 236. The bearing is a piece of brass
1/16” × ¼” × 1”, and is bent to a right angle at the middle. A small
hole is drilled for a brad into the side of the spine and the other
hole is drilled to receive the propeller shaft, which is 1/16” steel
wire. The shaft is bent into a hook after it passes thru the bearing.
To prevent the rubber of the motor from touching the steel wire, which
is injurious to the rubber, a small rubber hose is slipped over the
hook. In this model, the propellers are pieces of veneer steamed and
pressed into the spiral shape. The propeller shaft then is bent around
the center of the propeller, has two little washers between this and
the bearing, after which comes the covered hook, see Fig. 237. A piece
of tin ½” wide and 1¼” long is folded about the propeller before the
shaft is bent around. The shaft is soldered to the tin, the tin being
secured by two small brads and shellac. A small tin rudder with a small
fold in its upper portion may be slipped over the back cross-piece,
Fig. 238. The fore plane is made of very thin spruce, shaped like Fig.
239, and is bent up almost like a butterfly’s wings, Fig. 240. The
wood is less than 1/16” thick. A double hook as anchors for the double
motors, is bent and secured about the fore end of the framework. The
hooks are covered with the rubber hose, the same as the propeller
shaft, Fig. 241.
[Illustration: FIG. 242.]
The large plane is 4½” in the widest place and is 20” long. It is the
shape of Fig. 242 in outline, the straight side being to the rear. The
outline of the plane is a steel or brass spring wire 1/16” diameter
and is spliced at the center of the long sides, being soldered at
this point. The ends of the wire lap over an inch or more. There are
but two ribs which are 5½” from the outer ends. The ribs have a slight
curve upward, most of it being near the free edge of the plane, Fig.
243. The ends of the ribs are bent at a right angle and are soldered
to the outside framework of wire. The cover of the plane is made of
prepared silk and is made ¼” larger all around than the size of the
outline of the wire frame. A ¼” hem is then turned which gives strength
to the edge. The cover is now over cast with needle and thread to the
framework, stretching fairly tight.
[Illustration: FIG. 243.]
The framework of the large plane is not secured directly to the wooden
framework of the model, but is soldered to wire loops that in turn lie
flat on top of the spines of the frame, Fig. 242, _a_, _a_. This gives
opportunity to tie with string so as to try out the model. If it is too
far forward, it can be slipped back and vice versa; when the correct
position is located, it is permanently wired to the wooden framework.
The fore plane is attached by means of rubber string. This is known as
the Mann monoplane, and is a commercial product.
The propellers will be further discussed in the next chapter.
CHAPTER XVI.
PROPELLERS, MOTORS, GEARS, AND WINDING DEVICES.
There are four kinds of propellers:
1. Propellers carved out of solid and laminated blocks.
2. Metal propellers with curved or twisted surfaces.
3. Built up propellers. In this type a small block is used as a hub,
and the wood or metal fans are projected out from this. The fans are
attached on the diagonal.
4. Propellers made of pressed wood veneer. These are excellent, but
require more skill and more apparatus to make.
[Illustration: FIGS. 244-251.]
_The carved out propeller_ is the one most generally used and is
not only a good exercise in modeling with a knife, but is a good
serviceable kind. There are a number of types of propellers, named
mostly by men who have designed them. For simplicity in laying out and
carving, I like the Langley type. A rectangle is made of wood, say
¾” × 1½” × 6”. Fig. 244. Draw the diagonals, as in Fig. 245. With a
radius of ¼”, and center at the intersection of the diagonals, draw
a half-inch circle. Connect the diagonal lines and the circumference
of the circle, as in Fig. 246, and cut down to the outline as it now
appears. The blank is now as shown in Fig. 247. We will now take off
two big slices, not all in one cut, but in several. Fig. 248 has the
dotted lines showing the depth to be cut, and Fig. 249 shows these same
parts cut away. Now cut away _x_ and _x_ until the blade is curved back
to edges _z_ and _z_. The cut away portions will be as in Fig. 250. Cut
the opposite side the same way, and cut away the back corners a little,
giving the result as shown in Fig. 251. Sandpaper well and shellac.
Drill hole carefully for the propeller shaft.
[Illustration: FIG. 252.]
[Illustration: FIG. 253.]
[Illustration: FIG. 254.]
The principal objection to the metal propeller is the bending that
is liable to occur when the model lights, unless there are lighting
devices underneath, and they all add weight. The hub propellers may
have metal or hardwood veneers for fans. The hub may be round or
square; see Figs. 252 and 253. Very good propellers may be made in this
way. Extra curvature of the outer ends of the fans is possible, Fig.
254.
=The veneer propeller= must be steamed and pressed. This is by far the
most difficult to make. The 1/16” hardwood veneer is the best. The
propeller is not reinforced to make up for the extra thickness of the
carved propeller, but is of uniform thickness thruout. The veneer is
first cut to shape in outline and then is steamed and twisted to shape.
Fig. 255 shows a pattern for a propeller blade. The veneer should be
steamed or soaked in hot water until the wood is very pliable and
soft. A form should be ready so as to get both wings with equal twist
from the central portion. I will suggest one, others can be devised.
A clamp is necessary for the center, which may be made as follows:
take a one-inch piece of wood about 1¼” wide and any length. Set it
up edgewise. Make a cut 1/16” deep and one inch long across the upper
edge, Fig. 256, and screw a small piece over top as a clamp. After
thoroly steaming the propeller blade until it is very pliable, insert
it into the clamp at the center and twist from the straight side, one
fan up, the other down. It is not easy to get the two sides just alike,
so I recommend the bending of one side at a time, and when that is dry,
remove, and reverse the ends, being sure to keep the straight edge
to the front, or the same as before. To be accurate, there must be a
guide block to bend to. For a nine-inch propeller, a block like Fig.
257 would be about right. Place guide in position, press blank down to
the oblique surface and secure there until dry. Repeat for the other
end. It will be seen that the guide block and clamp are both secured
to a board for a base; they may be secured to a table or bench-top. A
clamp might be devised also that would hold the propeller in a vertical
position with guide blocks on either side of center so as to bend and
secure both ends at the same time.
[Illustration: FIGS. 255, 256, 257, 258.]
[Illustration: FIG. 259.]
=Another way to bend propellers= is to clamp the center of the blank
in a vertical position, and with two clamps made by sawing into the
ends of two pieces of wood, Fig. 258, a cut wide enough to take the
thickness of the blank, and deep enough for the width, bend one blade
forward and the other back, Fig. 259. The small clamps on the propeller
blades should be placed at equal distances from the center, and should
be given an equal amount of twist. The small clamps on the blades will
not be forced over until they touch the base, so blocks of equal size
should be used as stops in the operation of twisting. The clamps should
be secured in the last position by means of cord to the base until the
propeller is dry.
[Illustration: FIG. 260.]
[Illustration: FIG. 261.]
Still another way to attain the twist in veneer propellers, would be
to have two blocks gouged out to the proper shape, one just fitting
in the other. After the propeller is shaped in outline and steamed,
it is placed between the two blocks, which are in turn clamped firmly
together until propeller is dry.
=Motors.= Quite a number of devices have been tried, but the rubber
string is by far the most efficient power yet discovered. Rubber has a
great deal more power than an equal weight of steel in all ways that
steel has been tried. The power of the rubber motor is dependent on
the unwinding of the strands of rubber after having been wound up.
The longer this unwinding may be delayed the further the little air
craft may be propelled, providing there is force enough expended at
any time to give the necessary momentum to the propeller. A long motor
has more revolutions than a short one. Hence some advocate a long
spined frame to the model aeroplane. Others prefer to cut the frame a
little shorter and give great pitch to the propeller which demands more
energy at a given time, hence heavier strands, or more strands of the
smaller rubber string. With the greater pitch propellers, the model is
propelled faster and so may cover as great or greater distance than
one with a motor that gives more revolutions in unwinding, but it is
possible to revolve so fast as not to propel at all. Many use the 1/16”
square rubber string, others the ⅛” while many use ribbon rubber, say
1/32” to 1/16” thick by 3/16”. ¼” and 5/16” wide. For small models,
rubber bands can be looped together.
=Gears.= Small, light weight gears can be made or bought. They are
attached to propeller shafts and are geared back different pitches.
Some one to two, others one to three, while some gears are one to one.
It might seem that one to one is added friction and no gain in winding,
but a hook is attached to each gear wheel which allows two rubber
motors instead of one, and allows longer unwinding. If the rubber
strands are divided they wind up many more turns than when combined in
one bunch. If eight strands are twisted together you cannot turn as
many times as with four strands. Fig. 260 shows a one to one gear and
its connections, and Fig. 261 a gear with a greater ratio.
A gear of one to one might be placed at the opposite end of the
framework from the propeller, thus extending the number of revolutions
in that manner, the second rope or motor extending back and below the
first, Fig. 262.
[Illustration: FIG. 262.]
=Winding Devices.= It is tiresome to wind up the rubber motors by hand,
so mechanical winding devices have been made. A drill with a hook in
the place of a drill-bit is quite satisfactory. It is best to have a
ring on the rubber motor where it is attached to the anchoring hook.
This ring can be hooked on the hook of the drill. This winds but one at
a time, so they should be changed about in the winding process, first
on one and then on the other back and forth, until tight enough. A very
good winder can be made of a revolving egg-beater. The egg-beating part
is cut off, leaving two shafts instead of one. If there is a hook on
each, both motors can be wound at once and as they should be wound in
opposite directions, the device works all right.
CHAPTER XVII.
TOURNAMENTS.
All of the work of construction and flying of kites is interesting and
profitable for development yet there is opportunity for furthering this
interest by bringing about yearly tournaments for the exhibition of
the many efforts in construction and design that are undertaken. The
tournaments have a further usefulness in the bringing of our schools
together in a great outdoor social event. The spirit of such an event
is excellent and the day is a joyful one to the children and parents.
Thousands attend these yearly gatherings.
=The Director.= It is necessary for a good tournament that some
interested and competent person take general charge of the whole
affair and not leave the planning and arranging to others. Helpers are
necessary at the tournament, but preparation should be directed by some
one person. In so doing, we do not overlook the helpful cooperation of
the principals at the various schools, but seek to interest them as to
possibilities of undertakings by their children. Instructions should
be sent out from time to time as to new things to be constructed and
three or four weeks before the tournament, quite complete instructions
regarding the different events that may be entered, and rules
pertaining to each should be posted in each school.
It is well to organize a little in the schools that are interested.
Some boy may be recognized as a leader and a good kite maker. He can
round up the team, get the boys interested and encourage them to
enter events not yet taken so as to cover as many events as possible
and fewer in the same. The preparation for the tournament gives a
great opportunity to the teachers and principals to get in touch with
boys. Many boys have come to know their teachers with just such an
introduction, and it has been the means of starting a good many boys to
work in the schoolrooms on their studies. Some boys seem to get out of
gear with their schoolroom environment and need a little touch of play,
a tramp, or some form of sport to get them back to their real school
life. This kind of undertaking is one of the great opportunities for
the teacher to get near to the boys. Some teachers are enthusiastic
enough to send out for a good sized bundle of sticks and have some one
retail them out to the boys at cost. The boys appreciate a little
effort of this kind even if there is no prospect of a tournament. A
discussion of design in the drawing work will also be a practical
departure from the regular work, and will again arouse the lazy boy to
do his best. Now if the teacher will take some interest in the making,
even if she doesn’t know very much about it, and especially in the
flying of the kites, she will be progressing, and there are but few
teachers who cannot learn a good deal about kite making and flying, if
they are willing to try.
The manual training teacher and the shop are very able assistants to
the kite construction projects. In some schools, a week some time
previous to the tournament is allowed for the special construction of
kites in the shop. The boys will waste valuable lumber if allowed to
rip up thin boards, so it will pay to encourage the buying of spruce
sticks. There is much adjustment in attaching string and covering,
and putting on of the bridle; as much as possible of this should be
reserved for home work, but some might be done at school.
=Suitable Location.= But the work at the school is not a tournament
altho an important factor of it. The director, we will call the manager
of the tournament, must find a suitable location. It must be open
to the breeze, free from wires, accessible by street car service, a
little to one side so people will have to go a little out of their way
to see it, hoodlums don’t usually care so much for beautiful things,
especially if it is some trouble to go to it, and it should be large
enough to accommodate a great many kites without getting into too close
quarters. Kites are liable to dive around somewhat, so if they are not
too thick, there is more chance to get the kite straightened up before
getting entangled in other kite lines. Now that there are so many kinds
of kites, it is necessary to locate the kinds on the field. The kites
are divided into groups when the list of events is sent out, and these
groups are placed in different locations on the field. We will suppose
the following group is to be located.
Group D.
Measured Events.
27. Highest Flyer--Single.
28. Highest Flyer--Tandem.
29. Highest flight in five minutes, etc.
On the ground, separated from the others, would be a bulletin board
that is fastened to a post and this is set in the ground. The post
is about nine feet long, and the bulletin board is nailed to it, the
lower edge being about one foot down on the post. If the post is set
eighteen inches in the ground there would be six and a half feet up
to the lower edge of bulletin. The announcements can be printed with
chalk. They stand out and can be read across the field, see Fig. 263.
The tournament is always on a Saturday afternoon, so the bulletins are
set Saturday morning.
[Illustration: FIG. 263.]
If there is no space fenced off for aeroplane model flying, and for
the races, a few posts should be set and two wires about No. 9 run
around an enclosure. Make it an enclosure, for if you don’t it will be
impossible to keep the spectators back. We tried a V-shaped fence, but
it was useless; with an enclosure and two or three policemen about, it
is possible to keep the crowd out.
=Judges.= Settle on your judges at least two weeks ahead of the
tournament. It will assist in arousing interest in the schools with
which they are connected. Principals and manual training teachers
should be available and serviceable. It is not necessary to be a kite
maker to be able to judge a kite. About three judges to a group is
good, then if one fails to appear you still have two. Try to start at
the appointed time and urge your judges to be there on time. Caution
the pupils about putting their kites up before the time, as they are so
liable to accident if played with beforehand.
Save a place of honor for your superintendents. They may be asked to
award prize badges, or to select the prettiest kite in the air, and
the most ingenious device, the best made model or the best invention;
not all of these but something of this kind. Don’t forget to use them
in some place. Get the promise of two, three, or four policemen, a
few days ahead. The presence of a few good officers helps in curbing
desires for destruction among a few. Kites are liable to accident,
so if you can have a kite hospital where the boys can get a little
paper and paste, string or stick, it will sometimes heal quite a
disappointment.
[Illustration: FIG. 264.]
[Illustration: RECORD SHEET FOR GROUP II.--KITE TOURNAMENT. FIG. 265.]
An information bureau is a good feature. Have a bulletin showing its
location. The judges as well as the children and parents would be glad
of some help of this kind. Official badges are given to the judges,
director, superintendents of schools, information and badges, and
helpers. The badges are given out to the officers at the information
bureau. A small stand at some prominent location in the field would
be of service for the giving of the prize badges to the winning
contestants. Each winner receives a slip, Fig. 264, from one of the
judges of his group, giving his name, school, the first or second prize
and event, the judge keeping a duplicate record on a mimeographed sheet
that is mounted on a piece of cardboard, Fig. 265. The pupil takes
the slip to the awarding stand and hands it to the judges. The judges
turn in their records, and the director fills out a small diploma of
recognition, Fig. 266, and sends it to the school from which the boy
has entered. It may be a girl; we have had a number of winners among
the girls. These slips and record sheets for the judges will be some of
the work for the director before the tournament. Each pupil who wins in
any event receives an appropriate badge, Fig. 267.
[Illustration: FIG. 266.]
[Illustration: Fig. 267.]
If it is convenient, it is always well to have two transits give the
actual heights of high flyers. Some simple ones might be made, but
there are often students who would like the opportunity to do some work
of the kind for practice. It is well to send out a printed list of the
winners to all the schools after the tournament. It might be written as
follows
25. Highest Flyer--Tandem.
First. Albert Johnson, 24 St. School.
Second. Victor Wagoner, Washington St. School.
In sending out notices before and after, request the principals to
place them in a conspicuous place for the boys to see. The principal’s
office is not a good place, for some will not go to the office to study
them, these boys may be just as interested but they don’t care to have
us know it. If the material is where the boys can see it easily they
sometimes get interested unawares to themselves. All plans should be
placed in an open place.
CHAPTER XVIII.
TOURNAMENTS, CONTINUED.
The newspapers are glad to publish notices and pictures, and some will
even print plans of work free. They are very persistent in getting
reports of the tournament, so the judges should be careful in recording
each event. The reporters will be on the ground if they have knowledge
of its whereabouts.
Ice cream and sandwich wagons are liable to get in the way, so it is
best to restrict them to the margin of the crowd. They should not be
allowed to come inside any of the locations for the events.
All string that is to be used in races of any kind should be measured
beforehand. It is best for the director to take charge of the string
until time for the event, or until he can turn it over to the judges
in charge of that group. Boys are liable to make a mistake in getting
their string too short, so it must be measured. I place a couple of
nails one hundred feet apart in the rail of the board fence, the boys
wind about that until they have the required length, and by counting
the string I can soon see if it is correct. If the string is given
back to the boy, there is a temptation to take out some. There is no
disadvantage in letting out the string from a stick in the races, if
there is a reel to attach it to when it comes to the winding in.
Announcements should be sent out a week ahead of the tournament that
the string will be measured such and such afternoons, perhaps two days
before the tournament. It is not best to leave it until just the day
before, as the director should be as free as possible from such work
at such time in order to give full attention to rounding up of details
that are sure to accumulate toward the last of the preparations.
=Quarter Mile Dash.= The race consists of the letting out and winding
in of a kite on one quarter mile of string. The boys set their reels
ready for the best speed and they group themselves quite close
together, but far enough apart to prevent mix-ups, and at the proper
time are handed their string that has been measured and labeled which
they attach to kite. Each boy in the race is allowed one helper and
the kite may be held by the helper a hundred feet away, ready to toss
it in the air at the sign for starting. When all is ready, the one in
charge of the group calls “ready! go!” The kites are tossed up and are
given the string as fast as it will be taken. The boy with a steady
head will sometimes stop playing out and work his kite up a little to
get more breeze. If there is plenty of breeze, they are fed all the
string as fast as it is pulled out. If a kite drops it may be worked up
again, but it must go to the end of the quarter mile and back. A time
keeper is placed by each contestant, and officers are needed to keep
back the onlookers. As soon as all the string is out the boy slips the
loop on the end of his string over a hook on the reel and winds in as
fast as he can turn. The kite mounts up in the air and is pulled with
great violence toward the reel. If a string breaks, the time keeper
stops the winding until the kite is again attached. No allowance is
made for mishaps. The kite that is jerked down into the reel first is
winner, and the owner is usually a pretty warm boy. The helper can take
turns in winding.
Other races should be similarly conducted. We have had races in the
construction of a tailless kite, including the lashing and stringing
of framework and covering, attaching of bridle and the kite must fly.
In all pulling contests, spring scales are used. In the light weights,
the twenty-five pound scales are best, but the fifty pound is more
serviceable for all around purposes. For very heavy pulling, large ice
scales might be borrowed for the day from some hardware man.
To measure the pull of a kite, the string is looped about the hook of
the spring and the record made. Several records are made of each kite
over a period of about thirty minutes or so. The judges going to and
fro measuring this one and that. The kite should be ascending to get
the best register. It is well in trial events to set the number of
times that each aeroplane may be tried or tests of pulling permitted,
as some will tease for a continual performance.
The art supervisors and teachers are good as judges for the artistic
events. All kites are in the air most of the time, so a general survey
is made of the whole field. It is well to have about five judges on
this group. Less will do the work all right, but it is well to draw
many into the service.
If the director could be on horseback so as to be easily seen, and also
be able to get about easily, it would help out considerably. Messengers
from judges to director or information would be useful.
=Badges.= For badges, we use a celluloid button, with our own cut, the
ribbon attached has printing in black. The officers get yellow, the
first prize, blue, the second, red. Some years we have used different
colored buttons, this year the buttons were all yellow, the ribbons,
yellow, red, and blue.
See the street car officials in order that they may plan accommodations
for the day. Instructions are posted for the car men by the officials,
that consideration be given to the boys with their kites and in most
cases the men have been very helpful in this respect. Of course large
kites cannot be taken on the street car. A great many are taken to the
field in automobiles.
Just before the tournament it is rather difficult to locate the boys
making their kites, as they work in secluded places, but if you know of
some that are making progress, a photograph by the newspaper men will
add considerable zest to the advertising side of preparations.
Get your school officials enthusiastic first, and get their
cooperation in encouraging the undertaking, for it is a great school
social gathering and should be made worth while. Then boost for it.
Demonstrate by making or flying a kite, and the boys will take care of
the rest.
A SAMPLE ANNOUNCEMENT.
MANUAL TRAINING OFFICE
Los Angeles City Schools
KITES AND AEROPLANE MODELS.
New Year’s Greeting to the
Kite Makers of Los Angeles:
The Sixth Annual Kite Tournament will be held April 20,
1912, at Exposition Park. The spring vacation will be a
good time to design, construct, and try out new ideas.
The model aeroplanes will have a much larger place than
heretofore at the coming tournament. A number of good
plans of kites and model aeroplanes will be sent out during
the coming season.
Spruce sticks can be obtained again this year at 1335 E.
6th St. at the Southern California Box Co., in 25c bundles
or more.
The Goodyear Rubber Co., No. 324 S. Broadway is carrying
string rubber and will have one sixteenth and one eighth
inch, very good sizes. Models propelled by rubber bands
should be from 20” to 30” across. Do not make the planes
too wide, much of the failure of models is due to this
mistake.
Two firms in the east are advertising small gasoline motors
for model aeroplanes. Models to carry these motors should
be from 6’ to 8’ or more. Models so equipped are operated
by cords running to the ground. One boy claims to have
succeeded with a storage battery under his arm and an Ajax
motor in his model. If we get our model well under control
we should be able to carry the storage battery on a wheel
as suggested two years ago. No one has reported a success
with the clockspring device. A long coiled steel wire
spring has more promising possibilities.
Look for advertisements in “_Popular Mechanics_” and other
magazines, for firms carrying parts such as gears, rubber
motors, etc. There will be a few events for commercially
manufactured models, but these are not to compete with home
made.
The usual kite events will be about the same as during the
past two years. The quarter mile dash with the use of reels
will be used; also an eighth mile dash will be listed this
year in which the string is to be wound in by hand.
The “_Scientific American_” of October 14, 1911, has an
article on “How to make a Model Aeroplane that will fly 700
feet”. Look it up.
Ask at the libraries for Mr. Collin’s books on “Model
Aeroplanes”. There is a second book out by this author that
seems very good.
Look out for ideas in the daily newspapers and at the
Dominguez meet.
Principals please post.
Respectfully,
CHAS. M. MILLER.
MANUAL TRAINING OFFICE
April 12, 1912.
Sixth Annual Kite Tournament at
Exposition Park, April 20, 1912.
TIME:--No kites are to be put up before one o’clock, and judging is to
begin at 2 p. m.
CARS:--Georgia St., University, Grand Ave. to Figueroa Junction,
Vermont Heights or Inglewood on Main to Figueroa Junction.
PLACES:--Bulletin boards will be used as usual--see information, if you
can’t get located.
RAIN:--If the afternoon is stormy, the tournament will be postponed two
weeks.
GIRLS:--All events are open to the girls.
ADMISSION:--No admission fee, and friends invited.
ARTISTIC EVENT:--All kites will be judged for artistic effect no matter
where located--must fly.
BALLOONS:--Boys must bring their own balloon equipment.
STICKS FOR FRAMES:--Any wood, except the hardwoods, may be used for
frames, but spruce is best.
INTERMEDIATE AND HIGH SCHOOL BOYS:--All intermediate boys are eligible
and all high school boys who have been in a grade school since last
tournament, may enter from such school. Look up some of your kite
makers.
KITES:--All should be encouraged to make and fly a kite, even if not
for a prize. Make it a kite flying day for your school.
EXTRA PARTS:--Boys should bring along an extra stick and some paper in
case of accident to kite.
NEW INVENTIONS:--Special new features will be recognized if they have
real merit.
PRIZES:--Ribbon badges and diplomas will be awarded as in former years.
ORGANIZE:--Distribute your efforts over many events.
REGISTRATION:--Send in registration to Mr. Miller at Grand Ave. School
on Friday. Give names of boys. No one will be kept out for lack of
registration.
MEASURING:--Kite lines for quarter and one-eighth mile dashes and
yacht race will be measured at Grand Ave. School, Thursday and Friday
afternoons, April 18th and 19th.
Come one--come all.
Respectfully,
CHAS. M. MILLER.
CHAPTER XIX.
CONCLUSION.
Kite making and kite flying have been enjoyed for centuries in the
orient and for a good many years in this country, and will continue as
a seasonal sport for perhaps all time. It can be made more interesting
and useful by a little cooperation on the part of the grown-ups. It
may be only expression of appreciation of the effort put forth by some
otherwise idle fellow, or it may be in the form of a request of teacher
to pupil for a nice kite as a gift for a third party, or it may be the
arousing of school spirit for the best showing at a tournament, it
might be assistance rendered in planning a beautiful kite, and it might
be a great many other things that have not been mentioned. Kite making
will not catch and make good every boy, even with the best efforts of
the best teachers, but it will go farther than any other enticement
toward bringing about good comradeship between teacher and scholar,
which is half the battle with uncertain temperaments in some boys. We
need to come shoulder to shoulder with the boys to help them most.
But the merits of kite making go farther than the social relationship,
it arouses the inventive spirit in the boy, fills in many otherwise
idle hours with good healthy sport that occupies the children out of
doors. It is not wasted time unless indulged in to too great excess,
but new developments bring about new studies of the kite problems that
are as good for the boys as problems of other subjects like arithmetic
and geometry for we must remember that boys have subject of study not
found in text-books.
Someone told me not long ago that “no one could think an evil thought
while looking up”. Some one else has written, “If the outlook is not
good, try the uplook”. This latter has a greater significance than
would be generally applied to boys flying kites, but who knows what
boys are really thinking about; maybe we underestimate their abilities
and inclinations. Our boys often need more persistency of effort, and
must be held to their jobs by much attention on the part of overseers.
Most boys will stick to kite making against great discouragement and
some will continue, for long periods, working patiently and carefully
until they succeed. The string is often a source of great annoyance,
it snarls up and some lads will cut out the hard knots, but others
will tackle the knotty problems and untangle them, they will do the
same with knotty problems in life later on. It is patience that wins
in many a tangled strife. Boys do not as a rule have as good feeling
for color harmony, or so the ladies think, as the girls; help the boys
out a little on their color combinations on their kites. It may be the
first time the boy has had a problem of his own in color work.
Perhaps the little aeroplane does not go very far, it looks like a
failure. Do you look on and pass on? If the model goes at all by its
own power, that boy has made a something that has overcome the force of
gravity to the extent of traveling transversely to its downward pull.
Recognize it, and encourage the boy. There is a difference between
flinging one so that it will travel for a short distance, and releasing
one that travels by its own power. The former may be a deception. Give
credit where credit is due.
The balloons have very little lifting power, but the force of gravity
has been overcome, two gases of unequal density have been placed in
juxtaposition and the lighter one goes up. So we might go on with each
of the subjects attempted in this book. There has been great demand
for the briefer treatise, and I hope this little book may have met the
expectancy of its readers more than half way.
Remember it is not just the pretty kite soaring high in the sky;
remember there is a BOY at the other end of the kite line. Boost for
him.
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XX.
BIBLIOGRAPHY OF KITES.
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Transcriber’s Note:
Words may have multiple spelling variations or inconsistent hyphenation
in the text. These have been left unchanged, as were obsolete and
alternative spellings. Misspelled words were corrected.
Words and phrases in italics are surrounded by underscores, _like
this_. Those in bold are surrounded by equal signs, =like this=.
Obvious printing errors, such as partially printed letters and
punctuation, were corrected. Final stops missing at the end of
sentences and abbreviations were added. Duplicate words at line endings
were removed.
Figure 143 is missing in the original.
Missing words [in brackets] added to text:
... kite would be adjusted [as in] Fig. 92, ...
... =A biplane= is shown [in] Fig. 211 ...
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