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Title: In a German colony
or, Four weeks in New Britain
Author: B. Pullen-Burry
Release date: August 14, 2026 [eBook #79365]
Language: English
Original publication: London: Methuen & Co., 1909
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/79365
Credits: Carol Brown, Peter Becker and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN A GERMAN COLONY ***
IN A GERMAN COLONY
[Illustration: A WOMAN FROM THE BUSH VILLAGES]
IN A
GERMAN COLONY
OR
FOUR WEEKS IN NEW BRITAIN
BY
B. PULLEN-BURRY
AUTHOR OF “JAMAICA AS IT IS, 1903,” “ETHIOPIA IN EXILE,” ETC.
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL ANTHROPOLOGICAL INSTITUTE
OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
WITH EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS AND TWO MAPS
METHUEN & CO.
36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
LONDON
_First Published in 1909_
PREFACE
Since very little information has so far appeared through the medium
of the British press concerning those possessions in the Pacific,
included under the comprehensive title of the Protectorate of New
Guinea, it has seemed to me that to shape my voluminous notes into
book-form may be of use to future travellers. With that end in view,
it also appears desirable to explain that much in these remote
islands remains to be discovered. Speculative theories therefore,
however tempting the data, have been scrupulously avoided.
In the compilation of this work a simple description of conditions,
which came under the writer’s notice, is all that is attempted.
It is, moreover, hoped that the reader will not be severe to mark
amiss the latitude of expression which the authoress has permitted
herself, in the belief that she has not thereby exceeded those
limits of discursiveness which may justly be extended to confirmed
globe-trotters.
B. P.-B.
_London, 1909._
CONTENTS
PAGE
CHAPTER I 1
Introductory remarks--on the _Prinz Waldemar_--incident
in the German Consulate at Sydney--the Maoris--their
present condition--difficulties in the German colony.
CHAPTER II 20
Confusing nomenclature of the Protectorate--the
Papuan type--the Melanesian--Blanche Bay and
environs--Simpsonhafen--walk to Matupi--the captain
of the _Sumatra_--on the Admiralty Islands--the
Moánus--the Usiai--the Matankor.
CHAPTER III 42
Hotel at Herbertshöhe--planters’ meetings--Docman
and “Collars”--Dr Thurnwald--traces of great
volcanic activity--the Bainings and the Sulkas--facial
ornamentation of Gazelle kanakas.
CHAPTER IV 57
Cannibals in prison--“the yelp of the beast”--history
of the Bismarck Archipelago--Spanish secretiveness--
Dampier and Carteret’s voyages--the New Guinea
Company.
CHAPTER V 74
A visit to the R. C. mission--Bishop Coppée on various
islanders--the nuns--their schools--murder of ten
missionaries--congregation of natives.
CHAPTER VI 89
A visit to Mr Parkinson--native markets--the diseased
condition of the kanakas--cultivation of taro--the
island products--the uses of bamboo and cocoanut-palm.
CHAPTER VII 106
Queen Emma’s residence--her fame in the South Sea--a
digression--details of the copra trade--“Black-birding”
--a Polynesian group of islanders--the Carteret islands
and Sir Charles Hardy Group.
CHAPTER VIII 124
I call on the Governor--sun-worshippers--the
misadventures of a decade--British colonists--I
inspect “police boys”--a “white Australia” policy
condemned.
CHAPTER IX 140
Slavery formerly practised--Baining characteristics--
an unknown race--three degrees of religious
development--Tingenatabaran--ethical perception of
the Sulkas--tamboo--magic.
CHAPTER X 157
Natives humanely treated--Australasian ladies--visit
to the Australasian Methodist Mission--New Ireland
described--settlement effected--higher plane of
culture.
CHAPTER XI 171
Early start to visit bush kanakas--a terrible
tragedy--Governor’s classification of Archipelago
peoples--dense bush--native villages--method of
catching flying foxes.
CHAPTER XII 185
Duties of a chief--_uviana_ and _luluai_ described--
_kamara_ used by Europeans--status of women--nuptial,
symbolic and other ceremonies--_vuvue_ feast--
trepanning.
CHAPTER XIII 201
The shooting ground--hornbill dance--secret
societies--the Duk Duk--Ingiet.
CHAPTER XIV 217
I visit Kabakaul--a love story--an earthquake--guests
from Herbertshöhe--a nocturnal disturbance--Bismarck’s
remark to Busch--conclusion.
INDEX 235
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
WOMAN FROM BUSH VILLAGE _Frontispiece_
FACING PAGE
ON THE SHORES OF BLANCHE BAY 28
POST OFFICE AT SIMPSONHAFEN 32
A GAZELLE KANAKA 54
LABOUR BOYS 118
AN ATTRACTIVE BACHELOR 180
A DUK DUK DANCE 210
FISHERMAN OF NEW BRITAIN 220
LIST OF MAPS
THE GERMAN PROTECTORATE OF NEW GUINEA 1
THE GAZELLE PENINSULA 24
[Illustration: THE GERMAN PROTECTORATE OF NEW GUINEA.]
IN A GERMAN COLONY
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS--ON THE _PRINZ WALDEMAR_--INCIDENT IN
THE GERMAN CONSULATE AT SYDNEY--THE MAORIS--THEIR PRESENT
CONDITION--DIFFICULTIES IN THE GERMAN COLONY
This little span which we call life has been aptly described as a
mere parenthesis between the vast eternities of whence? and whither?
and in this age of breakneck speed if we would live, and not
vegetate, we must be men and women of the hour, keen to note, swift
to record.
In the case of the writer of these pages the call comes to testify
to the virtues of a nation which, from circumstances apparently
beyond its control hitherto, it has become the fashion to decry,
for latterly, has not our literary provender teemed with nebulous
and speculative matter anent the esoteric meaning of a Monarch’s
utterances! Indeed the fertility of the British press leaves little
to be desired. In the same way our parliamentary leaders provide
food for mental digestion in which the quantity, hardly the quality,
should satisfy the most omnivorous politician.
Raw stuff in the form of undiscussed clauses thrust before the
astonished gaze of the Electorate of Great Britain, are professedly,
the “considered judgment of the Commons of England.” Accustomed as
we are to the growth of “terminological inexactitudes” we would
remind, before we pass on, even those who frequent the precincts of
Westminster, that a fashionable sin remains, as heretofore, one of
the Lord’s abominations.
Now my travels have taken me beyond the parish pump, my views of men
and things have long since failed to coincide with that respectable
orthodoxy which to the rural mind is represented by squire and
parson, and I venture to believe that reading, marking, and learning
whilst we globe-trot amounts nearly, to the sum of what we can
acquire on this planet. Therefore it appears not inopportune, for
one who has experienced hospitality and courtesy in no small degree
during a visit to Germany’s youngest colony, to contribute her mite
to that literature which deals with the hydra-headed question of
our relations with that country. The Master’s lesson to love our
neighbours as ourselves is possibly beyond our power, yet those of
lesser light remind us that the pen as well as the tongue has its
responsibilities.
“Every word has its own spirit
True or false that never dies,
Every word man’s lips have uttered,
Echoes in God’s skies.”
And let us remember that if there be those who long to “thrash the
English,” there is at the same time, a growing determination on the
part of the Teuton people to restrain the military autocracy of the
Hohenzollern. The fiat has gone forth, Germany has set her face
against Absolutism, and in the iron chain of destiny there are no
breaks. The velocity of national movements responds in proportion to
the propelling energy at the back of them. In the history of Europe,
to-day, we may well pause to take stock of the situation, to measure
if we can the magnitude of that driving force, which, since the birth
in 1870 of this powerful nation, has converted a race of dreamers and
idealists into a hard, practical people. For if the will to dominate
by land and sea, to agitate restlessly for commercial expansion and
colonial possessions can be construed into representing the matured
fruit of Teutonic spiritual aspiration, then indeed the words of a
far-seeing poetess, “Souls are ripened in our northern sky,” have
more than mystic meaning!
Yet for our mutual comfort, let me add, that although we are not
blind as to what united Germany may mean to this country, and that
notwithstanding the fact that our fatuous law-givers profess to see
in the fly-blown phylacteries of Cobdenism relief for all the woes
which beset us, notwithstanding also the perversity which causes them
to interpret Holy Writ into doing unto the foreigner 100 per cent.
more than he would do for us in parallel circumstances, we persist
in the belief that the British bulldog breed is not yet totally
extinct, when patriots such as Lord Roberts, and Lord Meath, rise up
to warn the country of its danger and its weakness. And God knows,
and the women of England know, that compulsory military training for
three or five years for every mother’s son would be a boon and a
blessing in every way desirable. In fact our legislative muddlers are
bringing us to this, that if a healthy compulsion to learn the art of
self-defence is not soon insisted upon, the cry of the women will not
be “Give us votes!” but “Teach us to shoot straight!”
With these introductory remarks I will pass on to the subject-matter
of these pages, hoping that I have defined my position as savouring
neither of Teuto-phobia, or of Philo-Teutonism.
Some twenty months ago I stood on the deck of the _Prinz Waldemar_
as she slowly left her moorings and steamed at noon through that
most exquisite waterway, Sydney Harbour, out into the Pacific Ocean
bound for Hong-Kong. Her first port of call was Simpsonhafen, in
New Britain, where the monthly steamers of the German Lloyd are
eagerly welcomed by the officials and planters of the Protectorate
of New Guinea as the solitary link between these distant equatorial
possessions of the Kaiser and their beloved fatherland. Subsequently,
the _Prinz Waldemar_ would call at Manilla on her way to the British
emporium of the Far East. My destination was Herbertshöhe, the seat
of government of the scattered dependency. Here it was my intention
to stay a month, proceeding to Japan by the next steamer. The
undisguised wonder on the part, first of all, of the German Consul at
Sydney, then of the ship’s officials, lastly of my fellow-passengers,
when they learnt my plan, was amusing. What in the world was I
going to do in New Britain? they asked. There was no decent hotel.
I should find it _langweilich_! In fact, the place was impossible!
For a lady to stay in that fever-stricken, God-forsaken colony!
unheard of! Was I not afraid of _die cannibalen_? The idea that a
woman might be interested in the vagaries of savage life was too
hard a nut for the normal Teuton to crack. An English lady of ducal
name, who had been staying at Government House, Sydney, endeavoured
to dissuade me, picturing vividly my plight in case of illness. I
told her that fevers never troubled me, although prickly heat and
I were sworn enemies. To the objections of an English gentleman
who, with his large family, had been visiting his properties in
Australia, one could only emphasize that what he termed obstinacy,
others called determination. Though I listened to them all with deep
respect I was none the less prepared to find a four weeks’ stay
lacking in comfort, but years of roaming train one how to dispense
with luxuries. Hitherto I had always found sufficient nerve to face
unknown quantities. Besides, had I not as a child, and later, in my
teens, in the most approved Methodistical fashion, literally wrestled
in my prayers to see not only distant lands, but real live savages?
And here was a chance of beholding some of the lowest specimens of
human nature on the globe. Would I forego it because the hotel chairs
were not upholstered, or the milk to my tea was canned. A thousand
times No! In the quiet of my cabin I thanked Providence that He
had not built me that way! To tell the truth, the only thing which
really occasioned some anxiety on my part was whether I should find
the German officials courteous, or the reverse. I had some grounds
for my doubt. The unpleasant interview I had at Sydney, the morning
previous to embarking, when I requested the German Consul to give me
a letter of introduction to the Governor at Herbertshöhe, lingered in
my memory. Just then feeling was by no means friendly in Australasian
circles towards the Germans in the Pacific Islands, owing to the
extraordinary behaviour of members of the Jaluit Company, in the
affair of a schooner sailing in Micronesian seas, belonging to a
well-known firm of Sydney shippers, concerning which legal measures
were pending. I was told by everybody that I should find the Germans
obstructive, discourteous, unwilling to facilitate me in any research
I was desirous of making.
As a matter of fact, my experience was the exact opposite. However,
during my interview I gave the Consul to understand that I was known
to persons of position in Sydney, mentioning the name of one or two
prominent members of the Federal Government. I had also lectured
for a Guild, whereat the Lady Mayoress had presided. To my utter
surprise he completely ignored the foregoing, declaring, that at the
very least, I should have brought a letter from Government House
stating the object of my proposed visit, etc. Needless to say, my
anger had been roused at this official bumptiousness, and I had risen
somewhat indignantly from my chair, expressing the wish to trouble
him no further, since had I deemed it necessary, I could easily
have procured letters from the Governors, either of Australia, or
of New Zealand. The matter was comparatively of small importance,
and I should not think of troubling their Excellencies! The sequel
to my interview was that the letter I had requested was written and
received by His Excellency, Dr Hahl in New Britain shortly before
I made the call that etiquette requires. So far as my visit to the
German Protectorate was concerned, this was the first and only
disagreeable I encountered from German officialism. In the island
itself nothing could exceed the kindness and hospitality extended to
me on every hand.
During those eight days of blessed rest and sunshine, gliding over
smooth seas, under brilliant skies between Sydney and the German
port, occasionally hailed by a passer-by to look at a shark, noting
the circumstance that after Brisbane not a funnel nor a sail did we
see till we entered St George’s Channel, which separates the island
of New Britain from New Ireland, I had time to meditate upon the
sights I expected to witness, in a day or two, where savage humanity,
practically barehanded, after countless ages of barbarism, had
for the last three decades come into contact with the white man’s
civilisation.
The world moves slowly where national existence is unknown, where the
intellect, or that which does duty for it, closed in by dead walls
of monotony merely guesses in the loftiest fashion of its sleep at
Heaven.
To such conditions I was about to make my introductory bow.
There seems to be no doubt that the low culture and sparse
populations of the islands in the Bismarck Archipelago have been
brought about by centuries of fierce feuds and exterminating warfare.
In pre-German days these small races were like beasts of prey,
robbing, preying upon their neighbours until they themselves were
chased, killed, and eaten in return. Their bloody fights always
ended in complete annihilation of the enemy, women and children
included, the victory being signalised by a cannibalistic gorge.
It was unthinkable that in less than a generation these men-eaters
had lost their leaden instincts, so it were, according to Herbert
Spencer, vain to expect golden conduct! Primitive peoples from one
point of view agree to differ; each, as will be seen in after pages,
appears to live and have its being on its own special rung of the
evolutionary ladder. How far removed indeed from the ideal savage are
these South Sea Islanders!
“I am as free as nature first made man
Ere the base laws of servitude began
When wild in woods the noble savage ran.”
From barbarism in the Pacific to the tinker, the tailor, and the
candlestick-maker of this age and of this land is a far cry, but it
is an open question at what stage in anthropological development
man would not be infinitely better off under the rule of parental
despotism than he is ever likely to be under representative
government, provided alway that the despot is truly parental in his
methods.
The discipline of life, a pulpit expression, but comprehensive, and
the “base laws of servitude,” though opposite as the poles in their
_modus operandi_, are, so far as we can see, castigatory essentials
to the bringing into working order the endowments of humanity, but
the danger lies in that we, by our western methods, risk impairing
the original deposit of true manliness, as natural to the man-eating
savage, when he brains the enemy of his tribe, as to the latest
dandy in Piccadilly, who shows himself a lion in courage on the
battle-field. We are curious to know what the next compromising
Education Bill will give to replace the native grandeur of the human
animal, for with all our boasted enlightenment, we see in our midst
a slackness, as opposed to alertness, a softness (balm no doubt to
the nonconforming conscience) incompatible with ideals of British
bravery, if not fraught with menace to our national safety. Such
qualities too often appeal to the man in the street and take the
place of virility and common-sense.
I had passed the previous winter in New Zealand and my thoughts
during the passage travelled across the seas to a dusky race emerging
from conditions which still characterise the Melanesians under
German rule. No study of mankind is more full of interest than
that of the present condition of the Maoris of New Zealand. Over
one hundred years have passed since Captain Cook, struck by their
vast numbers, first gazed upon them as he stood upon the decks of
the _Endeavour_ watching them follow the ship round the coast. No
finer savages ever trod the earth than this offshoot of the great
Polynesian race. It is lamentable that contact with the pakeha
(white man) has resulted in the dwindling of their numbers. All that
is evil they have imbibed, but for the virtues of the European the
race seemingly has no use. It would, I thought, be interesting to
compare them presently, so far as this aspect was concerned, with the
German Melanesians. The latest census taken in 1906 gives a total of
47,731, and Dr Pomaré, the Government medical officer to the Maoris,
himself a half-caste, declares that it is the only enumeration
that can be relied upon, since the returns are now sent in by the
heads of the recently-established native village councils, for the
Maoris, like Dolly of the Playhouse, paralysed at the evils which
in the forms of drink, disease and gambling have played havoc with
their race, have now set about reforming themselves. The tattooed
chief in dogskin cloak and befeathered topknot is no longer seen.
If he was relentless and fierce, he was also brave and chivalrous.
When he ate his fallen foe he believed that in so doing he received
into himself the _mana_ (prestige, renown,) not only of the dead
man, but that of all his ancestors. To add thus to his own _mana_
by conquering the hereditary enemies of his tribe, although it
meant the perpetuation of inter-tribal feuds, was highly desirable.
His social polity was the outcome of his views of right and wrong.
Maori-lore as expounded in the whare-kura (house set apart for that
purpose) abounded in spells and incantations to ward off unseen,
adverse influences. It told him of a land called Te Reinga, where
he would live for ever with his departed ancestors in peace, from
which place they would exercise their spirit influence upon mortal
affairs. Mr Tregear in his delightful book describes the old Maoris
to have been highly educated, good, all-round men. Before the coming
of the pakeha these savages felled trees with the roughest of tools,
built houses and seaworthy boats, made weapons, carved ornaments,
understood the art of weaving and dyeing. They cultivated the soil,
they stored their minds with hymns and spells innumerable. They were
poets, orators, warriors and seamen, possessing industry, patience,
skill and artistic perception in no small degree. Their present
condition, due mostly to the fact that nothing as yet replaces this
training, is by no means so satisfactory as one would be led to
expect, taking into consideration all the agencies at work making
for their mental and moral uplifting. It may be remembered that the
first Bishop Selwyn exclaimed from the pulpit, so impressed was
he by the fervour displayed by the Christianised natives of New
Zealand, “We see here a whole nation of pagans converted to the
faith.” Subsequently, when circumstances arose during the Maori war
which led the natives to distrust the teaching and the teachers, and
Hau-Hauism was substituted for the creed of the missionary, there
remained but little to show as permanent result of the marvellous
turn things took, when in 1860, mission work reached its zenith in
New Zealand. The spell of _tapu_ had been broken, the sacred head
of the chief was regarded with lessened veneration, but to this day
the Tohungas (witch-doctors) retain their malign influence over the
majority of the people. With the substitution of British rule for
tribal authority the descendant of the once formidable Maori too
often finds his dearest joy in horse-racing, and in gambling. He
spends listless days in wondering at the marvels of the pakeha--his
motor, the phonograph, the gramophone! He forgets the tribal legend,
the glory of his heroic ancestry. In the words of an educated
Maori, “it does not take the power of second-sight for the ordinary
observer to see that the modern Maori is oppressed with unutterable
woe, a listless manner, a hopeless expression and inertia which can
accomplish nothing.” If this be a true finding for the majority, it
was good to learn that a hopeful minority of agriculturists, living
in the neighbourhood of Napier and Gisborne, present a healthy
example of what the race may eventually become. So far as education
is concerned, I had been struck with the facilities offered to the
native children. Over one hundred village schools were in operation,
and the Government offers one hundred and fifteen scholarships,
tenable for two years, for children of predominantly Maori race. Yet
the complaint was universal that no definite technical training for
various trades figured in the curriculum.
To convert the aimless lives of those who had left school into busy
ones. To turn them out into the world as carpenters, artisans,
or engineers; to give the girls objects and interests in life in
teaching them dressmaking or laundry work, and so forth, would
prevent the going back to tribal life, which is so discouraging
a feature to the teachers in the schools. But no sketch of the
actual condition of these people, however humble, seems just
without giving full allowance for the fact that the insecurity of
native land-tenure, arising from the difficulties connected with
establishing individual titles to lands formerly held in common by
the tribe, is the real cause of much of the apathy, indifference,
and idleness apparent.
In the initial stage of colonisation so far attempted in New Britain,
in the low intelligence of its aborigines as compared with that of
the Maoris and our other subject races, in the unhealthy climate, I
was shortly to see for myself how difficult is the task which lies
before the pioneers of civilisation in the equatorial regions of the
German Protectorate.
CHAPTER II
CONFUSING NOMENCLATURE OF THE PROTECTORATE--THE PAPUAN TYPE--
THE MELANESIAN--BLANCHE BAY AND ENVIRONS--SIMPSONHAFEN--WALK
TO MATUPI--THE CAPTAIN OF THE _SUMATRA_--ON THE ADMIRALTY
ISLANDS--THE MOÁNUS--THE USIAI--THE MATANKOR
In the following brief outline of the German colony I prefer to
employ the names with which our atlas has familiarised us, for the
nomenclature of these regions is somewhat maddening. In addition to
the names which the islands had received from their discoverers,
who were mostly British navigators, there are those with which the
Germans re-baptised them on the acquisition of the colony. Then there
are the native appellations in constant use between the planters and
the kanakas (natives) who, commonly known as “boys,” are recruited
for labour purposes from various islands in the Archipelago. Nobody
deprecates the confusion this involves more than the officials
themselves. The difficulty in coastal surveys of identifying this
headland or that harbour with the German name and the native term has
been frequently experienced, and natives who have been swept away
from their local habitations in their canoes have found it utterly
impossible to explain from whence they came, since the authorities
were absolutely incapable of understanding to which part of the
coast they referred. Herr von Lüschan, of the Berlin Anthropological
Society, has strongly urged the retention of the native names.
The Protectorate of New Guinea includes not only the German portion
of the island of New Guinea, known as Kaiser Wilhelm’s land, but also
those islands in North Melanesia known as the Bismarck Archipelago,
with Buka and Bougainville, two of the northernmost Solomon Isles and
a few adjacent groups.
The varied and diversified inhabitants of the Archipelago, for lack
of closer knowledge, are known as Melanesians. Anthropologically
this is a sphere of interest where angels of the expert class fear
to tread. Far be it therefore for so humble a wayfarer as myself to
intrude! It may be well to mention that two distinct types have been
differentiated by ethnologists. The island of New Guinea is regarded
as the headquarters of the dark-skinned, woolly-haired Papuan, and it
is interesting to read that Huxley believed that the aborigines of
this island were more closely allied to the negroes of Africa than
they were to any other race. The Papuan (Malay-frizzled) has been
described by competent authorities as shorter than the European,
but taller than the Malay, smooth-skinned, in colour deeper than
the Melanesian, with thin long limbs, small dolicho-cephalic head,
prominent nose, high narrow forehead, dark eyes, the frizzled hair
worn in a mop, sometimes plaited with grease and mud. He scarifies
his skin, and has no knowledge of pottery. The Melanesian closely
resembles the Papuan, but is lighter in colour, stronger in build,
coarser in feature, less prognathous. He has a knowledge of pottery,
of weaving, practises tattooing and has initiation ceremonies and
numerous symbolic dances. Mr Sydney Ray, whose linguistic studies
of these races entitle him to rank as an authority, considers that
Papuan and Melanesian languages, though apparently belonging to
separate linguistic stocks, show no evidence of any kind connecting
them outside the limits of New Guinea. He thinks that the Melanesian
immigration passing eastward round the north of that island entered
the Bismarck Archipelago. The peculiarity of the languages of these
parts is their extraordinary diversity, natives of villages only a
few miles apart being quite unintelligible to each other. This fact
presupposes, says he, a long period of quite separate existence
of isolated family groups, or gens. These conclusions arrived at
by English scientists are borne out by the evidence of German
authorities on the spot, men not purely scientists, but governors and
officials of the Protectorate.
[Illustration: Map of GAZELLE PENINSULA.
English Miles.]
Under a cloudless sky, with the bold outlines of New Ireland to my
right and with the beautifully wooded upland scenery of the coasts
of New Britain to my left, my thoughts turned to the pioneers of
these seas, to the joy those who first broke into the silence of
this exquisite region must have experienced, as after many days they
once more beheld _terra firma_. As the steamer swiftly threaded her
path along the tranquil scene, we espied occasionally rising above
the woodlands thin wreaths of smoke, betokening human habitation.
Having rounded Cape Orford and noted the receding shores of Great Bay
(Grosse Bai) we approached the Gazelle Peninsula to the north of the
island, parts of which have been settled by the colonists. Although
the coastal survey is now complete, there remains a great deal of
the interior still to be explored. Soon the fine outlines of an
isolated mountain peak appeared in bold relief against the cloudless
sky. This was the Varczin (Vunakokor), rising to nearly 2000 feet,
standing as sentinel at the entrance of the channel, separating the
two islands. This narrow waterway, in the year 1878, was half choked
with pumice from a neighbouring volcano, but since 1890 it has been
pronounced safe for steam navigation. At certain times, however,
according to the prevailing winds, a deep current sets in against
which sailing vessels are almost powerless. Ahead of us, surrounded
with that beauty which dwells in deep retreats, set between ribbons
of silver sea, we caught glimpses of the fertile, for the most part
low-lying, well-wooded group known on our maps as the Duke of York’s
Islands (Neu Lauenburg). Then as we turned sharply round Cape Gazelle
and faced westwards, we passed on our right the Credner Islets, one
of which on account of its favourable position has been chosen as a
quarantine station, and on our left the picturesque little bay of
Kabakaul, where a planter’s house and outbuildings were the first
sign of white men’s presence. Here commences that belt of waving
greenery which the cocoanut plantations present to the European
traveller who for the first time gazes on the Kaiser’s territories
in these latitudes. It stretches almost unbrokenly along the shores
of Blanche Bay. In the neighbourhood of Herbertshöhe the white
habitations of the colonists and other buildings gradually became
visible between the cocoanut palm-trees. We were now sufficiently
close to shore to watch the white surf breaking over the coral reef,
for it may be well to note in passing, that two great agencies have
for countless ages been hard at work here, forming and reforming the
face of nature--in fact they are still busily engaged at the work.
The first of these is the tiny coral insect. Everywhere, excepting
when precipitous cliffs rise from great ocean depths, as on the East
Coast of New Ireland, the coasts are girdled with reefs. Anchorage
is difficult to obtain and landings are often situated where the
coral is of raised plateau formation. The second agent is volcanic
activity. Hot springs are found in many places, and in extinct
craters, where portions of the sides have been blown out, letting in
the sea, the colonist finds best shelter for his ships. Earthquake
shocks are constant, and in my visit of four weeks I experienced
quite half a dozen.
As we entered this beautiful bay we had reefs between us and the
land, whilst on the other side a volcano, known locally as the
Mother, frowned from the end of a promontory which on the north side
semi-encircles Blanche Bay. Thus we gained admittance into one of
nature’s busiest workshops. Our approach had been signalled. As we
stopped in front of Herbertshöhe several canoes had assembled to
meet us. In a boat full of natives a short distance off, I could
only distinguish flat German caps of the well-known official type,
surmounting frizzled hair, but as it came near I perceived that the
occupants wore smart loin-cloths. Their arms showed vaccination
marks, and through their armlets of woven grass had been thrust one,
two, or even three European pipes. Their ear-laps hanging down to
their shoulders were rich in personal property--in fact it struck me
that the family heirlooms were thus safely bestowed.
They seemed excited, and when some mail-bags tumbled down the gangway
my dull perception grasped the fact that I was beholding the transit
of the Imperial mails. The operation interested me. The ship’s
officer approaching, I asked him what these people kept repeating
to each other. He explained that the one in charge was directing the
others to “let them sleep,” and he pointed out that the mail-bags
were being laid side by side in obedience to this injunction. The
excitement of the Gazelle kanakas is intense when once the ship has
rounded the low-lying wooded corner of the island (Cape Gazelle). The
cry “Sail O!” is taken up and repeated from one to the other along
the shore. Possibly the joy lies in the prospect of unlimited stores
of tobacco, which the advent of the monthly mail from Sydney ensures.
[Illustration: ON THE SHORES OF BLANCHE BAY]
I noticed that other natives not in official dress, who approached in
canoes and gazed earnestly up at us, wore feathers or flowers with
bamboo combs in their frizzled mops. In some cases the hair looked
like a yellow or white door-mat, according to the individual’s taste
in colour; necklaces of opossums’ teeth, highly valued, and difficult
to obtain, adorned their dusky necks, whilst tight-fitting bangles on
their wrists and arms, curiously carved out of the tridacna shell,
together with smart loin-cloths (or lava-lavas as they are called),
descending to the knees, completed, in my opinion, a very smart
savage costume.
Having left her mails the steamer proceeded along a well-marked
passage between reef-bound shores to her destination. Whilst waiting
opposite Herbertshöhe, my attention was drawn to a church, with two
spires, standing on an eminence slightly to our left, with adjacent
European structures half hidden by trees, whilst below, a small
schooner, a steam launch, and native craft denoted activities which
apparently centred round long shed-like buildings. This was Vunapope,
the property of the self-supporting Mission of the Sacred Heart
of Jesus. The head of this Roman Catholic and important community
was Bishop Coppée, a Frenchman, whose acquaintance I happily made.
Almost opposite to where the steamer was stopping, I was given to
understand that two houses standing in close proximity to each other
constituted the one and only hotel in the settlement. The Governor’s
residence was just visible through the palm-trees. It is situated on
a commanding height and overlooks the headquarters of the New Guinea
Company and the Government buildings. Not far away a landing-pier,
sheds and store-houses belonging to the great trading firm of Forsyth
are outstanding features along the coast-line. The senior partner
of this successful commercial enterprise, known locally as Queen
Emma, was to become one of my most interesting acquaintances in the
Pacific. Her fine property, Ralum, with her residence, quite the
finest planter’s house in the island, extends along the shore to
the west of Herbertshöhe. A little distance away from the latter
we passed the Wesleyan Mission’s buildings at Raluana, with its
cluster of roofs and native huts. Thus south to south-west of us the
gradually ascending palm-covered uplands encircled the bay. On our
left, nestling at the foot of the Mother, lay the island of Matupi,
its copra plantations and hot springs the property of the firm of
Hernsheim & Co. It was joined to the mainland by a picturesque
wooden bridge which claimed our admiration. Kanakas’ huts close to
the water’s edge gave us our first impression of native life. To
remind us how near we were to those subterranean, or perhaps in
this case, submarine fires to which I have alluded, a rock rising
to considerable height seemed to spring from the shining surface of
the water. It was almost covered with vegetation, a few palm-trees
aspired to fuller growth, but what was our amazement to learn that in
one night, in 1878, during a terrific earthquake, it had been thrown
up from the depths below!
Shortly after we lay alongside the wharf at Simpsonhafen, at the
extreme end of the bay. Here we found two smaller steamers, one,
the _Langeoof_, about to start shortly to various islands in the
Archipelago to recruit native labour; the other, the _Sumatra_, was
a trading-vessel belonging to the N.G.L., which was also preparing
for an inter-island trading diversion on its way to Hong-Kong. After
making arrangements to be transhipped early the following morning by
the _Langeoof_ to Herbertshöhe, I accompanied some fellow-passengers
who were anxious to see as much as they could during the few
hours they were to remain at Simpsonhafen. We passed down the
newly-constructed wooden wharf into the shed where goods being landed
were carried by natives. We were not prepossessed in favour of the
miscellaneous, but miserable specimens of humanity who swarmed about
that quay. One shy youth was brought forward as the picture of a
desirable bridegroom. His teeth, which were blackened, betokened that
he was desirous of entering the married state. Pidgin-English is the
vernacular in these parts, and the native, half comprehending the
good-humoured banter of the ship’s officer, wriggled away from his
grasp. The German introduced another of his pets--this was the most
repulsive little dwarf one could possibly see--and if he had nothing
better than that to show us, we told him we would wait no longer.
[Illustration: POST OFFICE AT SIMPSONHAFEN]
Nothing is more dismal than Simpsonhafen in its present stage.
There are malarial swamps in close proximity to the wharf, and the
place is fever-ridden; no doubt on the hills above there are healthy
sites for dwellings, and probably important buildings will be erected
looking down upon the harbour.
Leaving the long landing-stage we turned sharply to our right, where
a road led to the post-office. We entered; it was simple enough in
its internal arrangements--a gun with a collection of papers lay on
the table.
“How do you like the look of that?” one of the party asked me. In
view of the general disapproval felt at my leaving the ship, my reply
was that fifty guns would not alter my intention to “stay over.”
After buying post-cards and posting letters, we continued our way to
a rudimentary inn, where we refreshed ourselves with lager beer, that
_refugium peccatorum_ of these parts, for the tropical afternoon had
afflicted us with an indescribable thirst. We thought it possible
to compass a visit to Matupi before returning to the ship. The way
was easily found, and for a couple of miles or so, we walked on
good roads through plantations of palm-trees, until we came to the
bridge we had seen from the ship. Here we met some companions who
had left earlier than ourselves. They thought we could get natives
to row us back to the steamer, so we continued our way, meeting a
few kanakas occasionally. One or two carried European knives, which
greatly alarmed a lady of the party. We also met some small native
boys with roughly-made bows and arrows, which they kindly showed us,
illustrating the fact that small children have in various climes much
the same fashions in amusements. It was getting dark as we set foot
on the island. Our way led past a Roman Catholic chapel built by
native labour, then through a village enclosed with a split bamboo
fence about four feet in height, the huts thatched with dried banana
and palm-leaves. No surprise was shown at our presence; the natives
were evidently accustomed to the curious glances of white people.
Then after a short walk through more plantations we were hospitably
received by the manager of Hernsheim’s, and sat in his verandah
chatting and partaking of his hospitality until a boat belonging to
the firm was announced to take us back to the steamer.
We had four natives to row us under the bridge out into the bay,
and in about twenty minutes we were on the decks of the _Prinz
Ferdinand_. The excursion had been delightful in its novelty, but
after dinner we were even more interested in a visit we paid to the
Danish Captain of the _Sumatra_. It was pitch dark, but we were
courteously escorted with the aid of lanterns to the decks of perhaps
the oldest ship then in the service of the N.G.L. The Captain, tall,
well-built, fair, with keen eyes of the deepest blue, looked a
typical Dane. For some three years it had been his lot to visit the
different islands in the Archipelago for trading purposes. Ghastly
tales he could tell of what had befallen white men in those seas,
not by reason of wind and wave, but from man’s inhumanity to man.
I shall never forget the weird sight as sitting round a table on
the decks of the _Sumatra_, our only illumination a badly-trimmed
paraffine lamp, we forgot the blackness of a starless tropical
night, the buzz and whirring of insects, in the interest with which
we listened, spell-bound, to the Dane’s racy account of adventurous
days and stirring scenes. The boyish lightheartedness and charm with
which he described in good English dangerous encounters with the
natives of the Admiralty Islands I think we enjoyed most of all.
Whenever the _Sumatra_ approached the shores of these islands for
trading purposes, long canoes shot out from the coast, each carrying
from twenty to fifty natives in the highest excitement, keen to
exchange their copra and native commodities for knives, beads and
other European articles. The speed with which they sent their canoes
over the water was tremendous. The Captain considered the pace they
went amounted to not less than ten knots an hour. To our inquiry if
he never landed on these occasions, he explained how disaster after
disaster had followed upon repeated attempts to establish trading
stations on these islands, that the warlike, treacherous natives were
not to be trusted. He always stood well out to sea, with full steam
up, ready to be off in case of accident, and the sharpest lookout
was necessary to keep the lithe, active islanders from swarming
up on to the decks. In a few years, said he, settlements no doubt
would be established on the island, and these picturesque sights,
probably almost identical with those which are described by the
first navigators in the South Seas, would be things of the past. The
only person who had ever lived amongst these fierce islanders and
still survived, was Bishop Coppée, although several had visited the
coasts. A short time before, he had taken the prelate to an island
of the group, the object of the latter being to see what could be
done in the way of establishing a mission. When, at the end of a
fortnight, he had called (according to agreement) to take him back to
Herbertshöhe, to his surprise and relief the good bishop, unharmed,
had rejoined him.
“That was just the bravest man I ever saw,” was the sailor’s verdict
after a pause. It should not be long before I made his acquaintance
was my mental resolve. Then we gathered that the Admiralty
Islanders were greatly superior in intelligence to any other in
the Archipelago, resembling the Papuans of New Guinea in living
in pile-built villages over the sea. They are also not unlike the
Solomon Islanders in their knowledge of seamanship in the handling
of their long, well-built canoes. That they are known to take long
voyages in these, is evidenced by the fact that Mr Parkinson, in
his newly-published work entitled _Dreizig Yahre in den Südsee_,
states how he met, in 1897, in the Schouten Group, off the north-east
coast of New Guinea, two canoes full of Admiralty natives. Like the
old Maoris of New Zealand, they possess a rudimentary astronomical
knowledge, for they sail their ships according to what they have
observed of the positions of the stars. When the Pleiades at
nightfall are visible upon the horizon, then they know they may
expect the north-west monsoon, and when the Scorpion makes itself
visible to them at dusk of the evening, they begin to look out for
the south-east winds. Besides naming the most brilliant stars, they
have words to define north and south, east and west, a fact that
shows that they have mastered the first elements of geography.
The Admiralty Islands consist of some forty, for the most part
low-lying, reef-engirdled islands. The largest of these is, however,
mountainous and about fifty miles in length. They are inhabited by
three tribes--the Moánus, the Usiai and the Matankor. In the book to
which I have referred, the author describes how he obtained insight
into the conditions of these tribes. He was able to take down in
writing from an intelligent youth, who with several others had been
brought to Herbertshöhe from the Admiraltys some account of each. The
passages which, I translate from the German run as follows:--
“The Moánus build houses in the sea. They understand canoes,
the rudder, how to propel the canoe with oars, they can swim.
They understand the wind, sailing, the stars, and the moon
and fishing. They agree with each other concerning spirits,
how to perform magic with the pepper-leaf, with lime. The
intelligence of the Moánus is great, their speech one and
undivided.
“The Usiai live in the bush. They do not understand how to go
by sea, nor the use of the rudder, or how to propel the canoe,
nor can they swim. In the canoe they unskilfully permit their
obsidian spears to get wet. The Usiai are cultivators of taro,
scrapers of sago, they are eaters of snakes, they eat men’s
flesh and drink sea-water. The body of the Usiai is filthy,
the breath is unpleasant, their teeth are covered with a crust
of dirt. Their speech is always different.
“The houses of the Matankor are by the shore. The Matankor
understand the canoe, how to sail and can swim. They can
make large fishing-nets. The knowledge of the Matankor is not
great. They know nothing of the stars or of the moon. They do
not understand magic with the pepper-leaf nor with the dust of
lime.”
CHAPTER III
HOTEL AT HERBERTSHÖHE--PLANTERS’ MEETINGS--DOCMAN AND
“COLLARS”--DR THURNWALD--TRACES OF GREAT VOLCANIC ACTIVITY--
THE BAININGS AND THE SULKAS--FACIAL ORNAMENTATION OF GAZELLE
KANAKAS
Late in the afternoon of the day following, having installed myself
in the hotel at Herbertshöhe, and unpacked what was necessary, I
stood at 5 p.m. at the top of the steps leading from the steep cliff
to the hotel-landing below, from whence I waved farewell to my
shipboard acquaintances.
It was a glorious evening, and as the steamer passed from sight,
my feelings at seeing the only link between myself and the outside
world disappear may be imagined. Turning back I crossed the road,
mentally determining to make the best I could out of the next four
weeks, and returned to the hotel, or rather to that building known
as the Schlafhaus, comprising three rooms on the ground floor and
three exactly above, all opening out into wide verandahs which run
round the house. I had engaged the one with a south-east aspect
upstairs, and OH! the blessing and comfort of those great covered
verandahs, where one could adjust the blinds, and in the intense heat
lie at full length in a thin wrapper on a deck-chair, for no one in
this torrid climate, if they can help it, takes outdoor exercise
at mid-day. Here I was wont to breakfast, but unless accepting
the hospitality of the residents, I usually took my meals in the
building opposite, which, as restaurant, completed the hotel. From
the long dining-room a few steps led up to a portion dedicated to
the cult of lager beer and other thirst-assuaging beverages. On the
wide verandah of this Bacchanalian haunt, the planters and officials
congregated of a Saturday evening. During these convivial meetings
the exiled sons of Germania seriously disturbed my slumbers. Lengthy
orations, interspersed with songs of patriotic fervour, impassioned
verses to their best girls, others in favour of the noble drinks of
the Fatherland, generally ending with thumping choruses, sometimes
excessively musical, at others, ear-rending, boomed through the
stillness of the hot night. When music’s golden tongue ceased, the
sable goddess had generally descended from her ebon throne, and
cheerful morn peeped in upon me, to find my mood inharmonious, my
language imprecatory! From this verandah, which served the purpose
of the well-known beergarden, many amusing things reached me. One
day as I was writing notes in the corner of the opposite Schlafhaus,
screened from view by the sun-blinds which were adjusted as a sort of
protection, not only from the afternoon sun but from chance visitors
below, I heard myself discussed with that attention to detail which
characterises the Teuton as the best thinker in the world. Theories
as to my possible age were brought forward, then contemptuously
snubbed by one wiser than the rest till at last the speakers were
content to leave it not only as an unknown quantity, but as beyond
their speculative capacity.
The manager of this hotel was a young Bavarian of about thirty years
of age. I found him polite, desirous to make me comfortable so far as
lay in his power. He gave me an outline of his somewhat adventurous
career. At the age of sixteen, he and another boy found themselves as
apprentices on a sailing-ship bound for South America. On landing,
they ran away, and actually walked from Santos to Pernambuco, taking
four months over the performance! The hotel was the property of
the New Guinea Company. It may be worth mentioning that my lot has
been cast in more luxurious quarters, but for such as it was, I was
inclined to be thankful--it might have been worse! There were no
European servants at all, and the manager did not live in the hotel.
A Chinese cook, who had scalded his foot, limped about an outhouse
which served as kitchen. A native, named Docman, waited upon me. He
swept the room and the verandah, trimmed the lamps, and performed
many small offices; he was rather a taciturn, though not an ugly
savage. He would come up the steps with his pipe in his mouth; if
he caught sight of me would surreptitiously take it out, and stick
it through his armlet of woven ratang. When in full dress, about to
enjoy himself with his fellows at a feast or dance, he adorned his
neatly-cropped hair with a bunch of double hibiscus planted in the
middle of his head, on either side two white cassowary’s feathers
waved in the breeze, the erection being adroitly fastened to the
mop with a long-toothed bamboo comb. His lava-lava was of brilliant
colours and clean.
Then a native girl, quite the smartest I saw in the colony, rampaged
about my quarters continually. She and Docman had many consultations
as to the curious cut of my garments. She demanded of me “Collars!”
in season and out of season. I had to call the manager, who came
to my rescue, for she laid violent hands on a cashmere dress, a
silk petticoat, and other quite unwashable articles, and I could
not imagine what she wanted with them. He explained she was to
be my laundress, and at the same time in forcible language made
her understand that her presence at every hour of the day was
undesirable, with a few other needful instructions. Miss “Collars,”
as I henceforth dubbed her, was a terrible nuisance, her washing
during those four weeks was a great trial, for she had not the most
elementary notion of starching or ironing. It was too hot for me
to teach her, so I endured and learnt patience! I picked up a few
necessary phrases of Pidgin-English, and learnt to shout to Docman
from my verandah in this wise when I required him to bring my lunch
upstairs: “Docman, fetch kaikai belong missus on top!” An American
lady who with her Swedish husband had occupied the same room before
my coming to Herbertshöhe, and whom I subsequently met in Japan, told
me she had been curious as to “Miss Collars’” marital relations,
or otherwise, and had asked the dusky beauty whether she “belonged
Docman?” “Me?” Miss Collars ejaculated, “Me belong all boys!” After
that the lady said she had not made further inquiries.
The first evening at dinner there were several Germans at the
table who courteously spoke very fair English for my benefit. It
was, however, most entertaining to find that a late comer proved
to be a scientist sent out from Berlin by Herr von Lüschan of
the Anthropological Society, whom I had met some years before on
the occasion of the visit of the British Association to South
Africa. This gentleman, Dr Thurnwald by name, was studying the
different languages, and the anthropological conditions generally,
of the colony. I found him somewhat despondently grappling with
the multitudinous linguistic diversities which characterise
the Melanesian languages, but I was indebted to him for much
enlightenment in our frequent conversations at meal-times. He was
fair in his references to my nation. In fact he spoke highly of our
successful dealings with coloured races, and regretted that things
went forward so slowly in the Protectorate.
“We have learnt by long and sometimes painful experience,” I said
more than once. “We have been colonising for centuries. You have but
just begun!”
“Yes, we came late into the field,” returned he; “all the best parts
of the world were taken long ago. Look at these miserable Gazelle
kanakas. What can one do with so lazy, so low a race?”
It was interesting to hear from one, or another, of the interests
which had kept, or which had brought them to this remote spot. To
grow copra, to sell it at top price, seemed to be the end and aim of
the planter’s ambition. I learnt that there were six trading firms,
with over fifty stations in the Protectorate; that at the different
harbours, such as Wilhelmshafen in Kaiser Wilhelm’s Land, there
were post-offices, and an official with subordinates to collect the
revenue, for the latter procured from taxes, dues, and licences,
averages yearly £5000, but the fact which struck me as significant,
when taken into consideration with the mental attitude of one or two
whom I met, and which I may describe as the reverse of sanguine, was
that in the whole Archipelago there are to-day only, and never have
been more than three hundred white men, and out of that number a
large proportion are officials. When I speak of the planters I refer
to the managers of plantations belonging to the various firms, whose
business naturally brought them often to the centre of administration.
Half a dozen natives wearing red caps and red lava-lavas waited at
table. Sometimes two or three were sufficient for that purpose, the
others meanwhile would squat out in the sun operating upon each
other’s shoulders. I watched the process a little way off. At regular
distances the skin was cut by an obsidian splinter, burning sand was
then rubbed into the aperture and the skin drawn over it. The raised
scars, the consequence of this treatment, represent tattooing in a
primitive phase, and in this scarifying process the _dark-skinned_
Melanesians differ radically from the tattooing of Polynesian races.
The belief is general that these kanakas at one time or another
migrated from the neighbouring island of New Ireland (Tombara), and
brought with them this type of ornamentation of the body. Whether
these scarified marks on the shoulders and chest have any totemic
signification, or any magical meaning, is not clearly known. In
the Gazelle Peninsula the kanakas belong to one of two divisions,
and must marry out of their own. In my daily conversations with Dr
Thurnwald, it dawned upon me how little was actually known of the
peoples who inhabit the Bismarck Archipelago. With deep interest I
learnt that a race whose existence was unknown twelve years ago,
called the Bainings, live in the mountainous region to the west
of the peninsula, and the curious thing about them is that their
language and customs are dissimilar to those of all other islanders
in the Archipelago. In a subsequent chapter they are described. The
ethnological conditions of this end of New Britain seem so bound up
with geological changes, that to shed some light on the somewhat
extraordinary fact of two races living within a few miles of each
other, one having retained in its pristine purity its language
and distinct customs, it may be well to refer to Mr Parkinson’s
explanation of the phenomenon. He describes the peninsula as
practically divided into two parts: a mountainous region known as
the Baining Mountains in the north-west, and a plateau formation
of volcanic origin built up with lava, pumice, obsidian and ashes,
the result of successive convulsions of nature in the north-east.
But prior to this volcanic outburst, a race who may be called the
aborigines of the island dwelt round the shores of Blanche Bay.
Those who survived the catastrophe sought refuge in the mountainous
west, out of the zone of danger. Their descendants are, he declares,
the Bainings, whose existence has lately come to light. Cut off
from intercourse with later immigrants in the fastnesses of their
mountains, they have retained their language and customs intact. If
this be a correct inference, it seems that all agree in the belief
that the bush and coast kanakas of the German settled territory,
so soon as the devastated area reclothed itself once more with
vegetation, migrated from New Ireland by way of the stepping-stones
afforded by the Duke of York’s Islands lying midway in St George’s
Channel. Finding no resistance offered them, the new-comers
apparently penetrated further along the uninhabited coasts, pushing
slowly inland. Long before the advent of the European, the natives
on the west coast in the neighbourhood of the three volcanoes, the
Father and two Sons, held friendly intercourse with natives on the
north coast of the peninsula, to whom they brought a special kind of
shell, much prized by the Gazelle kanakas.
The only other race as yet known possessing outstanding features are
the Sulkas, living in the neighbourhood of Cape Orford. A native at
Simpsonhafen, with a curiously-shaped head, had been pointed out to
me; the occiput had protruded in a remarkable manner. When mentioning
the fact, I suggested it was perhaps the result of an accident? This
was considered a capital joke by those present. They were kind enough
to enlighten my ignorance. The man, it seemed, was a Sulka. The last
few years had brought some of them to Herbertshöhe as labour “boys.”
In earliest infancy the child’s temples are tightly bound, as this
protrusion is considered a great beauty. The Sulkas, I was told,
amid laughter, understood women’s rights, for the girls choose their
husbands, and in so doing they “lay their hearts upon the men of
their choice,” according to the native saying.
[Illustration: A GAZELLE KANAKA]
Very different indeed, I was emphatically given to understand,
were the miserable kanakas of the Gazelle Peninsula. Living in
communities apart from each other, their _gunans_, or clans,
scarcely ever numbered more than nine or ten huts, which were always
encircled with a split bamboo fence from four to five feet high.
The matriarchate system of inheritance prevails amongst them: thus
a chief is succeeded in his honours by his nephew, the son of his
wife’s brother. Tamboo, (strings of shell money), is here as in most
parts of the Archipelago the medium of exchange. Fear of unseen evil,
wrought by the magic of persons antagonistic to them, is the
dominating influence in their lives, the mainspring of all action.
Everything they wear, all the face ornamentation, consisting of
painted circles and lines, have their special signification. For
instance, three marks, painted respectively black, white and red
from the eyes downwards on to the cheek, denote the shedding of
tears. Three long scars in the same direction have the same meaning.
Lines from the root of the nose semicircling the eyes represent a
butterfly, a red spot on each cheek means spotted. Sometimes the
whole forehead is painted white; an artistic finish is a line drawn
straight down the nose! Coloured circles round the eyes mean that the
person so ornamented imitates the eyes of the owl. Then certain very
superior patterns descend in families as heirlooms, and they figure
as monopolies, for if anyone covets the design, he must pay a sum of
shell-money for the privilege of being permitted to adopt it. Near
the Vunakokor Mountain there are natives of such artistic taste that
they paint half the body black and red, the other half yellow.
Nowadays when European paint can be procured from the trader,
vermilion seems the rage, but the native still makes colouring matter
out of clay, red and yellow ochres, or charred nuts mixed with oil.
Betel-nut chewing is greatly practised.
CHAPTER IV
CANNIBALS IN PRISON--“THE YELP OF THE BEAST”--HISTORY OF
THE BISMARCK ARCHIPELAGO--SPANISH SECRETIVENESS--DAMPIER
AND CARTERET’S VOYAGES--THE NEW GUINEA COMPANY
No truer words were ever written than the following by Sir George
Grey, “Ignorance is the channel through which fear attacks human
life.” At Herbertshöhe immediately the sun had set behind the rugged
outline of the mountains of New Ireland in a wealth of crimson
fleecy clouds, whilst the volcano and the bay lay steeped in shades
of the most exquisite purple, the kanakas, who, beneath the hotel
had been bathing or fishing on the reef, set up “Sing Songs” of a
most penetrating character, ostensibly to ward off attacks from
unfriendly spirits who, according to savage beliefs in this island,
are prone to malevolent activity at this hour. The noise was at times
deafening. I had been warned to be careful, not to stray too far
from habitations, for the treacherous instinct to slink behind and
brain an unsuspecting European is a factor to be reckoned with, so
that for the first day or so I contented myself with strolling about
the settlement and locating the different offices and stores of the
traders. The police-station I gazed at with interest, for hither had
been brought, not long before my coming, certain natives from the Sir
Charles Hardy Islands, two hundred miles away.
It appeared that a manager of the firm of Forsyth saw these islanders
with hacked-up human flesh in their baskets, and had thereupon given
them to understand that under the rule of the “mailed fist,” cannibal
practices must cease; whereupon, the kanakas, angry at being thwarted
in the enjoyment of the prized delicacy, had threatened to kill
him if he gave information to the authorities. The European had,
notwithstanding, apprised His Excellency of the fact, and a ship
had brought the transgressors to Herbertshöhe. I never discovered
the exact mode in which these offenders were punished, but this is
one out of many similar cases wherein natives have had their feet
set upon the first rung of the ladder which leads to progress. The
low status of the various races makes colonisation move slowly. To
mentally exchange places with these savages is an impossibility.
Though keen enough where contact with traders has accustomed them
to look after matters of personal gain, yet their intelligence,
certainly in the Gazelle Peninsula, is of so elementary a nature, so
little removed occasionally from imbecility, that to try to grasp the
standpoint from which the white man’s presence is viewed, requires
many years’ experience.
Some of us believe that man is toiling slowly upwards from unknown
depths. Others, that he is pitchforked into a solitary existence in
this world, condemned unborn, by force of an heredity insuperably
antagonistic to the attainment of the saving ethical standard. In
the first of these creeds savage traits are to be expected in early
stages of evolution, “the yelp of the beast” becoming fainter as he
slowly works out his own salvation. If the _raison d’être_ of man’s
existence is that eventually he may stand on the heights of life,
with glimpses of heights that are higher, then--
“Earth’s crammed with Heaven
And every common bush afire with God.”
The highest experience of the heirs of all the ages is “to know
ourselves part and proportion of a wondrous whole.” The fine insight
of great poetic genius has intuitively felt the cosmic interpretation
of what we call life, thus aiding us to solve, each for himself, the
riddle of the universe.
Few educated persons however, in these days, deny that their
ancestors rose by evolutionary processes from the animal kingdom, and
in course of ages by slow and painful effort attained to the rank of
human beings.
In these remote isles is a world sitting at the feet of Christ!
“Unknowing, blind and unconsoled;
It yet shall touch His garment’s fold
And feel the heavenly Alchemist
Transform its very dust to gold.”
Having permitted myself to indulge in a favourite line of thought, I
will now retrace my steps.
One of my first actions at Herbertshöhe was to write to the author
of the German work recently published, who, being a member of the
British Anthropological Society would, I thought, be a good guide
in native matters. Then I decided to call soon upon the bishop at
Vunapope, and upon Queen Emma. Before proceeding further, it occurs
to me that an outline of the history of this colony may be useful to
interested readers.
It is impossible to say with accuracy when, in the dim past, the
Bismarck Archipelago was first sighted by white men. Long before the
Christian era, according to Chinese traditions, foreigners traded
with that country, arriving in ships shaped like animals, having two
great eyes at the bows. Some apparently were Babylonians, for they
brought with them their knowledge of the stars and their weights and
measures. As it is believed that the coasts of Sumatra and Java
were known to those primitive mariners, we may be led to infer that
those also of New Guinea were sighted at an early date. Coming down
to later times, it is a matter of history how the discovery of the
Cape of Good Hope by Vasco de Gama in 1497, acted as a stimulus to
maritime enterprise and discovery. Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch and
British crossed trackless ocean wastes in search of gold and glory!
In 1511, a Portuguese discovered the Moluccas, whilst De Balboa, in
1513, from the Spanish possessions in Central America, first gazed
upon the Pacific Ocean. In 1520 Magellan steered his ship through
the strait which bears his name. A few years later the Spaniards
had found their way across the Pacific to the Philippines and the
Moluccas. That they had sighted the coasts of New Ireland and of New
Guinea is certain, for Tasman relates how he found the Cabo de Santo
Maria, the eastern point of New Ireland, on an old Spanish chart,
but the policy of the Spaniards was secretive. In the fabulous
wealth of their new possessions they had found a good thing, and
resolved to keep it to themselves, for which nobody can blame them,
considering that the same thing is done every day in this land of
light and learning. Notwithstanding their silence, adventurers
were keenly alert to find the “terra Australis incognita,” which
the geographers of that date declared must of necessity exist to
maintain the equilibrium of the universe. Somewhere in the southern
hemisphere, to counterbalance the masses of land grouped together in
the northern, this unknown territory was supposed to be situate. In
accordance with this theory, in the year 1566, the Spanish Viceroy
fitted out two ships to search for it. The command was bestowed upon
Alvaro Mendana who, sailing from Callao in 1567, discovered the Lord
Howe Group. From thence, steering in a southerly course, thinking
that the fertile islands he coasted, corresponded to the Biblical
Ophir, he named them the Solomon Isles. Torres later on discovered
the strait separating New Guinea from Australia, but curious to
relate, this discovery only came to light many years after, when the
British at war with Spain besieged Manilla in 1762, found the report
of Torres’ voyages in the archives of that town. In consequence of
Spanish secretiveness, and owing to the confused and garbled versions
which were rumoured of these voyages, it was not until the latter end
of the eighteenth century that geographers decided that the islands
discovered later by British and French explorers were identical with
Mendana’s Solomon Islands.
Already in the beginning of the seventeenth century the might of
the Spaniard was waning, and the Dutch were picking up what their
former captors were losing. Nautical studies were prosecuted in
the Netherlands, the purpose being to gain possession of the rich
Spanish colonies. Nor does this seem likely to be the only instance
in history when the world-wide dependencies of a great power have
excited the envy of a neighbouring nation, and stimulated it to train
experts in sea-craft! At this date the Dutch East India Company rose
into being, and acquired in a short space of time Batavia, Amboyna,
and Bantam, keeping the trade in their own hands. This monopoly
caused much indignation in Holland, and incited the two navigators,
Le Maire and Schouten, to further discoveries in the far east. In
1616, after rounding the Horn, they sighted three low-lying islands;
the coasts were steep, and there was no anchorage. These they called
Green Islands (subsequently they were known as the Sir Charles Hardy
Group--native, Nissan). Directing their course towards a mountainous
shore, they believed themselves to be on the north-east coast of New
Guinea, when they were in reality off the Cape of St Maria in New
Ireland. Here fierce encounters with natives, who swarmed on to their
decks from numerous canoes, took place. Ten were killed, three made
prisoners; two were, however, released in exchange for a pig and a
bunch of bananas. The journal mentioning this circumstance naively
adds _that they did not seem worth more_ (mehr schienen sie nicht
wert zu sein). Steering northwards they approached the shores of the
present New Hanover, but failed to note its insularity. Passing the
Admiraltys, they identified the “High Lands” with the twenty-five
islands of a former explorer. In 1642, Anthony van Diemen, then
Governor of the Dutch Indies, despatched two ships, provisioning
them for eighteen months, into the unknown south. This expedition,
commanded by Tasman, discovered in the Bismarck Archipelago the
little island which bears his name, Fisher Island, Anthony Caerns,
and Gerrit Denys, but he seems to have fallen into the mistake made
by the earlier navigators in taking the mountainous coast of New
Ireland for that of the island of New Guinea.
It was left for the British explorer, William Dampier, in 1700,
to establish the geographical fact that they were two different
islands. Having visited the west coast of Australia, this famous
navigator steered northwards and reached the island of Timor. Sailing
from thence in an easterly direction, he missed the “High Lands”
(Admiraltys), which the Dutch navigator had noted, and passing
between Squally Island and St Matthias, he coasted down the eastern
shores of New Hanover and New Ireland. Between Gardner Island and
Gerrit Denys, he came into conflict with fierce natives, who swarmed
up his ship’s decks. Passing Cape St Maria, he penetrated southwards,
named Cape St George, and mistaking the channel which divides the
island of New Britain from New Ireland for a bay, called it St
George’s Bay. Here he perceived clouds of smoke issuing from the
northern corner which proceeded no doubt from the crater known as
the Mother, opposite Herbertshöhe. Had Dampier arrived at any other
time of year, he would probably have been swept into the Channel,
to discover that his Nova Britannia consisted of two islands. This
was left for his successor Carteret to demonstrate. From February
to April, Dampier sailed in these seas, and at this time of year
a strong north-west wind sweeps through St George’s Channel, in
consequence of which a powerful current, against which sailing-ships
are unable to advance, would have deterred him from making a more
detailed survey of the supposed bay. Continuing to skirt the southern
portion of New Britain, he discovered the passage which bears his
name dividing the island from New Guinea. Here amongst numerous
islets he discovered and named Sir George Rook Island. Up to his
time, the Bismarck Archipelago had been considered to be a portion of
New Guinea.
Dampier was followed in 1722 by the Dutchman Roggeveen, who confused
New Britain with New Zealand. Again, in 1764, more British explorers
sailed for the South Seas, amongst them Commander Wallis in the
frigate called the _Dolphin_. He had with him, in charge of his
second vessel, an old-fashioned sloop which had seen thirty years’
service, the celebrated Lieutenant Philip Carteret. In April 1767,
the latter lost sight of his commander in the Magellan Straits,
and not till the following August did the crew of his unseaworthy
ship see _terra firma_. This intrepid officer then discovered
those islands which bear his name. Of the natives he speaks as
follows:--“The inhabitants are black and curly-headed, like the
negroes of Africa; their weapons are bows and arrows; they possess
great canoes, which they navigate by means of sails.” The following
day the Sir Charles Hardy Islands were sighted also; towards the
south an elevated coast-line was observed, which Carteret called
Winchelsea Island. In reality this is the first mention of the island
of Buka, the northernmost of the Solomon Group. In a day or two he
found himself confronting the coasts of New Britain, where he was
driven by sea and wind into Dampier’s St George’s Bay. Here, to the
joy of the crew who had suffered many privations, Carteret found
anchorage in the little “English cove,” where they stayed, repairing
the ship, till the 9th of September, when they were driven further
into the supposed bay. Carteret then discovered that it was a
strait separating the two islands. He named it St George’s Channel;
the group of islands known as New Lauenburg he called the Duke of
York Islands, and to the present New Mecklenburg he gave the name
of New Ireland. Steering along the western coast of the last-named,
he discovered Sandwich Island. Here the sloop lay becalmed and was
visited by ten canoes with some one hundred and fifty natives, who
were curious, but shy and inoffensive. Proceeding northwards he
discovered the passage dividing the islands of New Hanover and New
Ireland. On the 13th of September he sighted Portland Island; the day
following the “Twenty-five Islands,” to which he gave the name of the
Admiralty Isles; a day or two after, he passed Douro and Matty.
About this date the Frenchman Antoine de Bougainville was ordered by
the King of France to explore the South Seas. After discovering the
Louisiades he, in 1768, saw upon his starboard the long mountainous
island which bears his name; later on, Cloiseul, and on a northward
course he discovered the Hermits and the Exchequer Islands.
The century following, the Bismarck Archipelago was often visited
by captains of various nationalities. In 1849 Captain Keppel in the
_Meander_ passed Purdy Island, and landing on the Admiraltys found
the natives favourably disposed towards him.
Again, in 1872, the British cruiser _Blanche_, under Captain Simpson,
anchored behind the island of Matupi, in the bay which bears his
name. About this time the first permanent trading station belonging
to a German firm was established at Mioko. The year 1875 brought
two scientific expeditions into the Archipelago. Sir C. Nares,
commanding H.M.S. _Challenger_, visited the Admiraltys, and Captain
von Schleinitz, in the German war-ship, _Gazelle_, made a close
inspection of the coasts of New Hanover, New Ireland, the Gazelle
Peninsula and Bougainville. The 12th of October in this eventful
year saw also the foundations laid of the important Australian
Wesleyan Mission by the well-known missionary, Dr George Brown. The
year 1879 is memorable as that in which took place the disastrous
concern known as the Marquis de Rey’s expedition. Under a pretence
of founding a colony in New Ireland, to be called New France, this
unprincipled nobleman induced a number of persons to subscribe some
13,000,000 francs towards his nefarious scheme. His dupes sailed in
the _Chandernagore_, to find at the end of their voyage that they had
been grossly swindled.
In 1884 the German flag was hoisted at Matupi, and in the year
following the Kaiser granted to the New Guinea Trading Company,
which already had plantations in Kaiser Wilhelm’s Land, a charter
constituting it the ruling authority in the infant colony. However,
in the course of a few years, this arrangement proved unsatisfactory,
and at the request of the Company itself, a Protectorate was
proclaimed, and New Guinea became a Crown Colony, the Company
receiving £20,000 in compensation for having relinquished certain
privileges.
Herr von Benningsen was the first Imperial Governor; he chose
Herbertshöhe as the future seat of government for the colony. The
present Dr Hahl succeeded him in 1901.
Whilst I was in the Pacific in 1907, new territory was added to
his jurisdiction. The Jaluit Trading Company, who up to that date
had administered the German Islands in Micronesia (the Marshalls,
Carolines, and Ladrones), was deprived of its privileges, and the
Governor at Herbertshöhe henceforth is held responsible to the Crown
for the government of these islands.
CHAPTER V
A VISIT TO THE R.C. MISSION--BISHOP COPPÉE ON VARIOUS
ISLANDERS--THE NUNS--THEIR SCHOOLS--MURDER OF TEN
MISSIONARIES--CONGREGATION OF NATIVES
During the course of a lengthy visit to the Roman Catholic Mission
at Vunapope, twenty minutes’ walk from the hotel, I learnt much that
was new to me. As I sat in the spacious parlour of Bishop Coppée’s
two-storied residence, with its wide entrance looking out to sea, and
listened as he spoke of the different islands he had visited with a
view to ascertaining the practicability of establishing missions, I
was interested not only in his conversation, but in the man himself.
A tall, dignified, handsome Frenchman, wearing a simple white suit
of clothes like everybody else in these latitudes, with the addition
of a handsome gold chain and cross on his breast, he struck me as
a man of great character. In the language of the modern occultist,
one instinctively sensed refinement, skill, knowledge and power.
Many years before he became Bishop, in 1892, he had laboured in the
Archipelago, building with his own hands schools and churches, and
he was universally respected and admired by those who were not in
accord with his views. Producing an enormous chart, he pointed out
to me three groups of islands in the north of the Archipelago to
which he was referring. The inhabitants of these--the Anchorites, the
Hermits, and the Exchequers--are rapidly dying out. Intermarrying,
manifold diseases, such as elephantiasis, scrofula and others
introduced by the landing from time to time of American or European
whalers and trading-ships, were adduced as the causes of their rapid
disappearance. On the Anchorites the Bishop had found the natives so
low as to be eating their own children. Only about sixty still exist,
and on the Hermits the curious circumstance of an island possessing
forty inhabitants, of which the youngest was sixteen some two years
ago, demonstrates most forcibly how lacking in vitality the islanders
have become, since they are too weak to reproduce their kind. Yet,
not so many years ago, labourers were recruited from this group to
work in the plantations. In fact everything points to the belief that
a healthy population, possessing a social polity of their own, with a
skill in native art superior to that of many other islands, was once
in force. Portions of very richly decorated long canoes, fitted to
carry fifty persons, are preserved by German residents in the colony.
In the year 1881 the population was between three hundred and four
hundred, to-day there are not more than eighty.
The Exchequer Islands, which with the two already mentioned groups
are mostly of coral formation, possessing the same mixed type of
natives, are better in this respect; that is to say, that complete
extinction is not quite within measurable distance. About four
hundred natives live on the group, but their number, too, is
gradually diminishing.
“What a marked contrast to the Admiralty Islanders!” I had remarked,
and the Bishop had proceeded to tell me how strikingly different
are the conditions which each island presents. The intelligence of
the Admiralty natives, their populousness, virility and fierceness,
with, so far as is known, freedom from decimating diseases, stands
out in prominent relief from the majority of the Bismarck Islanders.
On the chart I was shown Douro and Matty lying with one or two
islets west of the Admiraltys. Here, I was told, an ethnological
problem of deep interest lies in determining the origin of the
inhabitants. These low-lying coral islands offering no anchorage,
rich in tropical vegetation--the cocoanut-palm, the bread-fruit
tree, bananas, taro--never visited until a few short years ago since
Carteret discovered them, are the home of a race altogether different
from any other in these seas. It is neither Papuan nor Polynesian,
nor Melanesian. None can understand the language, though attempts
are now being made to study it. Some of the curious weapons of the
islanders had been sent to Berlin, and Herr von Lüschan considered
they resembled some ancient Chinese weapons which had passed through
his hands.
“Where do _you_ think they came from?” I had asked, for the Bishop
had brought away some children on his visit, and they were in the
schools I was to visit.
“Personally, I think they are the descendants of Malay or possibly
Chinese castaways who have been wrecked on the islands,” was his
reply. Frequently, it seems, canoes are swept out of their course,
or wrecked on adjacent islands, when outside influence of this kind
assists materially to mix the races. Thus, in 1899, a Buka was driven
on to one of the Sir Charles Hardy Group. In attempting to return he
was, instead, landed on the coast of New Ireland. Sometimes it has
happened that when the natives have successfully landed on strange
shores, they have fought with, killed and eaten the inhabitants,
taking the women as slaves, thus affording another addition to the
racial confusion. In this way, it is not improbable that many islands
have gained their populations. The fact that a loom was found in
the island of St Matthias, inhabited at present by people of the
lowest culture, points to the influence at one time of a higher race.
Another factor in the situation is the endless fighting between the
islanders, leading often to the retirement into probably uninhabited
spaces of the weaker people. Thus a few years ago the natives
belonging to two small islands to the north of New Ireland withdrew
into far removed islets to escape the attacks of the New Irelanders.
The same thing has occurred in the Admiraltys.
To return to the inhabitants of Douro and Matty. The Bishop told me
that they were deft carpenters, their skilfully built houses unlike
any other, but they too, he feared, would shortly disappear from the
Pacific. Mentioning that the Danish Captain of the _Sumatra_ had
remarked on the predominance of females over males in these islands,
the Bishop remarked that the circumstance might have been brought
about by the ravages of the fever which had wrought such havoc in
1903. Unfortunately, this had been followed in 1904 by a catastrophe
which had carried off full five hundred people. It occurred in this
way. The natives had killed a manager and two Chinamen. When the next
ship was seen approaching, they had been seized with panic and had
taken to their canoes and gone out to sea. Unfortunately, a storm
arose, during which they, in their frail craft, had succumbed to
the fury of the waves. The natives in these two islands, although
ethnographically related, are curiously enough quite antagonistic to
each other.
The schools which I afterwards visited under the guidance of the
sisters were very interesting. Here I soon learnt to pick out the
different types which children brought from several of the adjacent
islands afforded--the black-skinned Bukas, the lighter-coloured
intelligent children from New Ireland. I was also able to identify
those which the Bishop had brought from Matty. They were absolutely
different from the others, lighter in colour, finer in feature, and,
if I saw rightly, showed distinct Mongol influence.
They were being taught to sing by cipher notation, the time kept
was remarkably good. I could not fail to remark upon the practical,
well-built schoolhouses. “Die Väter hallen alles gethan” (the Fathers
have done it all) was the explanation. The buildings in this part
of the world are all constructed with a view to withstand frequent
shocks of earthquake. They are generally erected on concrete blocks
and are so constructed that in case of violent shocks the whole
structure sways together.
Thinking of the intense heat, the risk of fever, of the often
inadequate supply of good food, of the menacing volcano across the
bay, and of the dangerous, treacherous natives, I asked the nuns if
they did not long to go home sometimes? “We are here for life,” was
the quiet reply. Then I questioned them about a disaster which had
happened to some of their number shortly before, and I was told that
on the 13th of August 1904, at the newly-established station of St
Paul, some forty miles along the coast westwards, encircled by the
Baining mountains, Father Rascher, with four of his fellow-priests
and five sisters, had been murdered. The grief of the little
community at Vunapope had been excessive, when through a native
source the awful news had burst upon them with the suddenness of a
thunderclap. It appeared that Father Rascher, who had the previous
year compiled a dictionary of the Baining language, and had nearly
completed a grammar, was in the habit of shooting pigeons with a
native lad who carried his gun. Unfortunately the latter had learned
to shoot from his master, and apparently it was preconcerted that
when he should shoot the priest the rest of the Bainings should steal
up to the mission-house and brain the other white people. This was
done so effectually that not one of the little band escaped. One
sister was found dead in front of the altar of the newly-erected
chapel. Fortunately their bodies were left _in situ_, the native
being afraid to eat white man’s flesh, since he is afraid of the
revenge his spirit may take. The bodies of these martyrs were
collected by their mourning friends and buried in one large grave.
To punish the natives, a punitive expedition was sent out by the
Governor into the Baining country, when several natives were shot,
fortunately including the ringleader.
Nothing daunted by this terrible catastrophe, the places of those
who had perished were speedily filled, and the mission continues its
labours. In this district Bishop Coppée has inaugurated an industry
which helps to support the community. A sawing-mill sent out from
Europe prepares timber supplied from the Baining mountains, which is
loaded on to vessels and taken wherever wanted.
This was the first of several visits to the order of the “Heiligen
Herzen Jesus,” which has its headquarters at Hiltrup near Munster in
Westphalia. To see the kanakas at their best, the nuns advised me to
come the following morning at seven o’clock, when they walked in from
all parts of the district to attend Mass. This I resolved to do.
That afternoon I received a visit from Mr Parkinson, in reply to my
letter, and I arranged in accordance with his kind invitation to
spend a day at his house early the ensuing week to witness a market
held on the verandah, when the natives bring in their agricultural
products, receiving payment in tobacco for the most part.
It was early as I set forth the first Sunday of my stay in New
Britain to hear Mass at the Roman Catholic church. There is no other
place of worship, so that one’s choice is limited.
The way led across a wooden bridge to the coast where many devotees
were inverting the apostolic admonition and taking their dip
before going to service. Women in twos and threes peered shyly, yet
curiously, at me as I walked slowly past. Weakly creatures they
looked, ill-shapen, painfully thin; some toiled along with children
slung on in front, whilst all carried heavily-laden baskets on their
shoulders, the weight suspended by a cloth or bark bandage passing
round the temples. Their features were small, and as a short, smart,
tropical rain suddenly came on, they produced coverings of pandanus
leaves fastened together to protect their heads. As I approached the
sheds and landing-place belonging to the community, to turn sharply
on my right to ascend the height whereon the church is built, a
motley crowd of natives followed. The church was calculated to hold
about four hundred. Not a seat was vacant when the service began,
and outside on the grass numbers sat who could not be accommodated
within. A chair had been placed for me on the side where the women
sat, from which I turned to watch the congregation filing slowly
into place under the guidance of one of the Fathers. The mats and
baskets of the women remained outside the building. The feathers and
finery had been taken out of the men’s vari-coloured hair, also their
pipes and other personal adornments were left on the grass outside.
Their behaviour was orderly and reverential in the extreme. It really
was a wonderful sight to see row upon row of converted men-eaters
kneeling and rising at given signals; not but what their white, red
and yellow moppy heads, their lips stained with betel chewing, gave
them a ferocious aspect. They sang hymns too, in their own kanaka
tongue, and listened to a long but eloquent address also in their
own language with evident enjoyment. As I studied them, the words of
Lowell came to my remembrance:--
“For whom the heart of man shuts out
Sometimes the heart of God takes in.”
I confess my mind was much disturbed by worldly thoughts as the
service proceeded. Around me there was scarcely a native who was not
covered with ringworm, and the scratching that went on continuously
did not tend to devotion.
This Mission, founded in 1885, claims to have baptised 13,000
converts. On one occasion, I inquired as to how much and how little
of the somewhat complicated doctrinal teaching of the Church of Rome
was imparted to the kanaka? I was told that the most rudimentary
elements of religion comprised the instruction given. With the
dread of evil spirits which haunts the native from his birth to his
death, it was something to get him to believe that there was a good
spirit who controlled evil. That which had led to the murder of the
missionaries at Baining is now believed to be the way in which the
priests had insisted upon their converts having only one wife. This
the natives were unwilling to accede to, though desirous of being
admitted into the Church.
On my way back to the hotel I pondered over the interesting scene
just witnessed. All that, from the ordinary standpoint, makes life
worth living, these missionaries had sacrificed, not temporarily,
but permanently. No one could fail to be greatly impressed by the
heroism of the life of sympathy.
“For heavy is the weight of ill
In every heart,
And comforters are needed much
Of Christ-like touch.”
CHAPTER VI
A VISIT TO MR PARKINSON--NATIVE MARKETS--THE DISEASED CONDITION
OF THE KANAKAS--CULTIVATION OF TARO--THE ISLAND PRODUCTS--THE
USES OF BAMBOO AND COCOANUT-PALM
A drive through cool, sequestered, leafy shades, skirting for the
last part of the way the low, picturesque shore, brought me to the
residence of Mr Parkinson. The tropical vegetation, the plantations,
the blue sea lapping on a strand overshadowed with the waving foliage
of the cocoanut-trees, whilst opposite the “Mother” looked menacingly
down on the placid waters of the bay, are my recollections of the
distance traversed.
The road was fair, the low pony-carriage comfortable, and my host
beguiled the way with interesting conversation, for probably nobody
has a greater knowledge of the colony than this gentleman whose
acquaintance with the Archipelago began as early as 1875. He was
then living at Samoa, where expeditions to these islands were
frequent, for “boys” were procured from them for plantation work in
Samoa. His studies of the Melanesians, however, commenced in 1882,
when he settled in New Britain. At that date, little was known of
the coasts, and the reef-engirdled shores were answerable for many
mishaps. During the last decade the German Government has sent out a
small vessel, _The Möwe_, to chart the hitherto unexplored coasts.
Knowing that my companion was fully posted up concerning the
peoples inhabiting these islands, and as I wanted to have a clear
understanding as to how far the ethnology of New Britain had been
discovered, I asked: “Beside the Gazelle kanakas, the Sulkas, and the
Bainings, what other races are known in the island?”
“There are the Taulils, numbering only three hundred souls, who are
a distinct people having a language of their own. They live in a
hilly, well-watered district, lying south-west of the Vunakokor,
between the Gazelle kanakas and the South Bainings,” was his reply;
adding, “they are an agricultural folk, growing sweet potatoes,
taro and bananas, at the same time sporting, for they spear wild
pigs, cassowaries, and catch fish in the streams, which are numerous
in their country. Although they live in the depths of the forest,
probably they will die out as the Butans before them.”
“Who were the Butans?” I inquired, as I had never heard of them
previously.
“I only know them by repute,” explained he. “In 1880, it seems, they
were completely wiped out, but that is a common thing in these parts.”
It appeared on further inquiry that the Butans and Taulils were
ethnographically related, and that they also, like the Gazelle
kanakas, had migrated from New Ireland. There were most probably
successive waves of immigrating tribes from the neighbouring islands,
extending over a large period of time, Mr Parkinson thought. He
proceeded to explain how energetically the Fathers of the Roman
Catholic Mission had set to work to learn the various dialects and
languages of the island. Personally, he was much indebted to Father
Eberlein for many details concerning the Taulils. Another missionary
had been equally diligent in studying a race who, in different but
allied groups, live about and to the west of the volcanic group
represented by “the Father and Sons,” and who are known as the
Nakanai. Further west, very little has as yet been discovered of
the coastal natives living in the vicinity of Wilhelm’s Peninsula.
Apparently the nearer Dampier Strait, which divides New Britain from
New Guinea, is approached, the more noticeable is the predominance
of the Papuan type, the broad nose and coarse features gradually
giving place to what has been called the Semitic type of New Guinea.
My informer related many of the incidents of his frequent coastal
excursions, and it seemed clear to my mind that what with endless
fighting and the inroads of European disease, such as the small-pox
which, in 1894–96 introduced from Java, decimated the inhabitants of
the French Isles, a group lying to the west of New Britain, that
there were many checks to over-population in operation in these parts.
Villages, which have been known to exist, have been wiped out a
few years later, and not a trace of them left remaining. On one
expedition, the ship in which Mr Parkinson sailed had anchored off
a large village, with some forty huts, in the Stelliner Bay. He
had gone further along the coast, but returned shortly to find the
place completely wrecked, the huts in ashes, and the smell of dead
bodies so offensive that he and his companions speedily retreated
from the deserted spot. These natives never fight in the open, each
party endeavours to ambush the other; when once taken by surprise,
flight is the only objective. Thus in the general insecurity nothing
approaching national existence is to be found in New Britain. The
Gazelle kanakas, it seems, look down upon the Nakanai, and “well
they might,” observed my host, for they were scarcely human. He had
seen men and women stretched in slumber beside their beloved pigs
on Wilhelm’s Peninsula on the north coast. They have, however,
abundance of food, yams, taro, sweet potatoes, bananas, whilst wild
pigs and dogs furnish them with animal sustenance.
As we approached Mr Parkinson’s, I saw that the market was already
in full swing. A crowd of bush kanakas, mostly women and young
boys, were sitting in a semicircle, their baskets beside them,
whilst above, on the verandah, Mrs Parkinson was superintending the
proceedings. She received me with the kindness which has earned
for her the title of “The mother of the Archipelago.” She wore a
long white dress gathered into a yoke at the neck, but there was no
attempt to confine the waist; a ribbon just catching the voluminous
folds together is generally all that is attempted with this costume,
which many ladies, including Her Excellency, patronise in this hot
climate. My hostess, who is half-sister to “Queen Emma,” was a fine
woman with amiability stamped on her comely features. I inquired
the object of the market, since the produce purchased was far more
than the household could dispose of, and was given to understand
that those planters who could not grow sufficient on their provision
grounds to feed their plantation labourers, held similar markets,
when the bush people walked in to Herbertshöhe, or its neighbourhood,
to dispose of eggs, fowls and products they cultivated, such as
yams and taro. For cocoanuts they were paid in coin, for edible
commodities, sticks of coarse tobacco, which is dearly loved by the
natives. I saw three eggs taken from an old woman who produced them
from some hidden receptacle in her scanty but filthy clothing, and
she was given two sticks in return, and seemed well satisfied. There
is a regular tariff, so that there can be no discontent, since the
planters all pay alike.
Mrs Parkinson pointed out one poor creature who looked to me
exceedingly ill; she was half crazed. Her companions on either
side seemed to be kind and sympathetic, but it was explained that
compassion was not the motive which made them pay her marked
attention. They were kind to her because they wanted to conciliate
the spirit that was in her. The sickly condition of these kanakas
generally, was noticeable. Here were backs and chests covered with
ringworm, on the legs horrible wounds and sores, the toes frequently
injured. They all looked old, haggard, weary and half-starved, and
I remarked upon their sad appearance, for I had never seen such a
devitalised crowd of human beings.
“They are physically a weak race, the women carry enormously heavy
weights very long distances, and that makes them look old before they
are young,” observed Mr Parkinson. Pointing to a old withered man,
with a goat-like beard, he added: “That man has looked exactly like
that since I have been in the Archipelago! One cannot guess their age
from their looks.”
“Oh, but they are lazy! They are born tired,” said his wife, who in
reality is most philanthropic towards them.
Assisting her mistress on the verandah, my attention had been
attracted by a very fine native girl, whose skin was nearly black,
and, so far as I could judge, she was one of the indoor servants.
“What do you take her for?” I was asked. “If she had slightly thicker
lips I should think she was an African,” was my answer. “Many
strangers have said the same,” Mr Parkinson rejoined; “she comes from
Buka, and she is a fine sample of a Solomon islander.”
At length the market was over. After sitting and chatting with each
other a little while, the women slowly and dejectedly adjusted their
burdens, consisting of babies, and now empty baskets. On the grass
below were purchased cocoanuts, bananas and other articles heaped up
separately into goodly piles.
We then entered the house, and apparently there is a _leit motif_
running through every kind of planter’s house all over the world. A
large central living-room, entered from the verandah which surrounds
the dwelling, is the distinctive feature, leading out of which, on
either side, are bedrooms or others, whilst at the back a number of
oddments, in the shape of outbuildings, serve for various utilitarian
purposes. They are to be met with in both hemispheres. The traveller
knows them well!
A capital lunch, consisting of island fare, fish freshly caught on
the reef, and good fowls, awaited us. One of the vegetables I had
never previously tasted. This was taro, the most nutritious food
of any, and the most highly prized. Europeans soon get accustomed
to it. I confess I did not want a second helping, but all over the
Archipelago it seems not only in great request but the staple article
of native diet. It is placed between two red-hot stones and baked;
on the present occasion it was boiled. This vegetable (_Colocasia
antiquorum_, var. _esculenta_) is cultivated in marshy land, but
another kind is successfully grown in the high-lands. The natives,
when an European agricultural implement is unprocurable, use their
pointed sticks, which serve every purpose, so far as tillage is
concerned. These are about a yard in length, and they insert them
into ground previously cleared, working them round and round to
enlarge the aperture and at the same time to harden the sides of the
conical groove. Into this the shoot is gently pressed and the hole is
kept open for two months, during which time all leaves and _débris_
are carefully removed.
In the third month all but two or three of the young leaves are
picked off. Then the work of the husbandman is over, and in six or
seven months the tuber is ripe. The natives are most observant of
all growing plants. They have names for them, and for every part of
them, moreover they are rudimentary botanists, in so far as they
can distinguish between the different species. In the Gazelle over
fifty kinds of bananas have been recognised, the difference being
sometimes so small that an expert even has to be careful in their
classification. The yam (_Dioscorea_), though second in importance,
possesses this advantage over taro, that it can be kept for weeks,
whereas the latter spoils after four or five days’ keeping. Sweet
potatoes are also cultivated; sea-water is used to flavour these
comestibles. I was much interested to hear of an isolated industry
my host had come across in his expeditions. In the neighbourhood of
Möwehafen, on the south coast of New Britain, he had found natives
procuring salt by a very simple process of evaporation and selling
it, or exchanging it, with tribes living inland. Low huts were
built, well-roofed to keep out the rain, but having both sides left
open to permit of the introduction of a rough framework holding
dried pandanus leaves arranged like troughs, into which sea-water
was poured which, exposed to the heat of the sun, evaporated. This
process constantly repeated left a crust of salt behind; when it was
thick enough, the pandanus leaves were rolled up in bundles ready
for use. The seclusion in which isolated communities live, possibly
accounts for this being the only known locality where the process is
carried on. It was curious that those kanakas, whom at least I had so
far seen, were such a miserable-looking set, since there seemed an
abundance of food procurable, without the necessity of cultivating
yams, taro and sweet potatoes. Fish was plentiful, every kind edible;
the forests furnished wild pigs, roast pork being the dish _par
excellence_, not only in the Gazelle Peninsula, but all over the
Archipelago, no feasting or dancing taking place when the delicacy is
not _en évidence_. I had already smelt it in my walks at Herbertshöhe.
Flying foxes are highly esteemed and in parts where the tortoise is
found, the eggs and flesh are eaten with great relish. For fruit,
the cocoanut, the mango and bananas, with other well-known tropical
delights, grow in the island. The dogs which help to chase the wild
pig are often eaten: they deserve a better fate. It seems that their
teeth, with the tusks and bristles of the speared boars, are all
used in various ways to ornament the person, also flowers. I noticed
in many of the drives I took, that frequently beside the humble
cultivations the glorious blaze of the double red hibiscus would
stand out from a background composed of the variegated foliage of
crotons and colias. The gardenia is also a favourite flower.
The natives, unacquainted as they are in New Britain with the arts
of pottery and weaving, have done very well in making use of what
they found ready to hand before the advent of the white man. When
one remembers that nothing more than a bamboo knife, an obsidian
splinter, or possibly a sharp shell, is all they had for cutting
purposes, it is surprising to think that they could make seaworthy
canoes, capital fishing-nets, and in some cases waterproof dwellings.
Perhaps of all the island products the bamboo and the cocoanut-palms
possess more utilitarian uses than any other. Bamboo poles adroitly
fastened together form serviceable rafts upon which the kanaka will
venture long distances out to sea. They are invaluable in building
his dwelling, to construct the fence which encircles the huts of his
_gunan_, or clan. To cross rivers and streams, he constructs out
of bamboo poles a fragile, but for all practical purposes a safe
bridge; the hard outer layer furnishes him with a good substitute
for a knife. Bamboo, moreover, is used to make the primitive
musical instruments which do duty at their Sing-Songs, often to the
discomfiture of the European. The hollow reed is also used to carry
water long distances.
It is really almost impossible to say what in native life is not made
from the cocoanut-palm. To begin with, copra, the hacked kernel, is
the basis of the islands’ economic conditions, the milk is a highly
esteemed beverage, the oil is used for the anointing of their skins
at festivals, and doubtless for many other purposes, such as mixing
with soot and coloured clays for colouring matter. There are other
fibrous plants, but for native rope the fibre of the cocoanut is,
I believe, the strongest. For their fishing-nets the finer threads
of the _Pueraria Novo Guineensis_, somewhat analogous to our flax,
are preferred. The wood of the cocoanut-tree is, unless exposed to
damp, durable and serviceable; the husky shell is used as a vessel
to hold oil and other articles, it is frequently carved to ornament
the wooden masks worn at native dances. The dried leaves are used for
torches when fishing by night on the reef to attract the fish to the
surface. One sees them with those of the pandanus palm and the banana
used to roof huts throughout the islands. From the mid-ribs of the
leaves, baskets and mats are woven and brooms are made.
Recently, rubber has been successfully introduced, also the cassava
plant for tapioca. Before I left, Mr Parkinson showed me some curious
wooden masks used at festivals and other articles which he had
collected during his long sojourn in New Britain. A huge package was
destined for the Museum of Chicago.
I was most curious to witness some of the dances I had heard so much
of, especially the Duk Duk, which is the variety mostly practised in
this part of the Gazelle.
Fortunately we were approaching the month of May, said Mr Parkinson,
that being at present the only time when it was permitted by the
German Government to take place. I was to learn more of these native
entertainments later on.
CHAPTER VII
QUEEN EMMA’S RESIDENCE--HER FAME IN THE SOUTH SEA--A
DIGRESSION--DETAILS OF THE COPRA TRADE--“BLACKBIRDING”--A
POLYNESIAN GROUP OF ISLANDERS--THE CARTERET ISLANDS AND
SIR CHARLES HARDY GROUP
The following morning I was destined to undergo my first experience
of an earthquake shock, the precursor of many which occurred during
my stay in New Britain, including the worst which had up to that date
been felt during German occupation. Thus how often in life
“Do the spirits
Of great events, stride on before the events,
And in to-day already walks to-morrow.”
I was still in my bed when I heard an ominous creaking; a
shudder-like motion shook the building, things rattled in the room,
but by the time I had sprung to the door the commotion had subsided
and the early matutinal peacefulness was restored. In a distant
corner of the verandah squatted the ever-vigilant Docman trimming my
lamp, as if nothing had occurred of sufficient importance to cause
him to look up. The savage puffed away unconcernedly at his pipe,
unconscious of my presence, conscious only of the bliss which that
occupation afforded. With doors and windows ever open because of the
great heat, there is, of necessity, a publicity in domestic life
somewhat embarrassing at first to the European. To adapt oneself to
circumstances is the first duty of the traveller, and I found that
an enormous cotton wrapper, always at hand completely enveloping
the person, was sufficient to cope with the unforeseen; for the
circumstances in which I often found myself were, to say the least,
novel.
In this world-defying garment I ate my kaikai (meals), wrote and
slept in a sheltered corner on my verandah, shouted my orders to
the busy Bavarian manager across the patch of grass below, and
scolded “Collars.” Occasionally I was greatly nonplussed; visitors
unannounced would find their way to my quarters, when my costume was
by no means fit for their reception. I then had to dodge past the
open window in frantic haste, to retreat to an obscure corner of the
room where I could array myself invisibly to the naked eye.
That afternoon as I sallied forth to call on Queen Emma, I passed
slowly along the coast, admiring the view and the facial decorations
of the natives, and meeting the curious gaze of officials and others
who had heard of my arrival. Approaching the stores and other
buildings of the Forsyth firm, I perceived that my progress was
watched by a keen-looking, middle-aged lady, wearing a dark, flowing
cotton gown, unconfined at the waist, standing at the door of some
offices.
As I proceeded on my way through a plantation, she passed in a
dog-cart. After a walk of about ten minutes I opened a gate, stepped
across a large open space, whence a magnificent view of Blanche Bay
and the volcano was obtained, ascended a flight of steps and looked
admiringly at the tasteful and comfortable furniture of the large
room inside the open doorway. I had heard much of this lady, not only
since my arrival, but when at Sydney. She is the oldest European
resident in the Archipelago, and by far the most successful from a
financial point of view. Half Samoan, half American by birth, she
came to these shores from Samoa in a small trading-vessel, with a few
followers and a revolver at her belt, when she began operations by
trading with the natives in European goods, such as Manchester prints
and Sheffield knives. With tact, bravery and conspicuous business
talent, inherited probably from her American father, she gradually,
though not without dangerous experiences, won the confidence of the
savages. In course of time she acquired by purchase sundry lands in
the possession of which her claim has been legally ratified by the
present German administration.
To-day, with the exception of the New Guinea Company’s plantations,
the firm of Forsyth, of which this lady is senior partner, is the
most flourishing concern in the Archipelago. When I was in the
Pacific the value of the entire business was estimated at £150,000,
and it was open to offers, since the health of the proprietors has of
late years suffered much from the climate, and they are desirous to
leave the island.
In these days of militant feminism, it is interesting to bring
before the readers of these pages the fact that here in these remote
regions a woman’s tact, skill, capacity and endurance have achieved
commercially, more than any of her masculine fellow-traders.
In every corner of the South Seas her fame and renown have been the
theme of many a captains’ gossip, of many a trader’s envious encomium.
A power to be reckoned with by the administration, a kindly mistress
to her many European _employés_, a protective deity to the ignorant
native, this lady to myself, an inquiring stranger, was kindness and
hospitality itself.
From her lips I obtained an insight into the prevailing conditions,
industrial and otherwise, of affairs in this youthful colony. No
one could fail to admire the wisdom and philanthropy of her conduct
towards those upon whose labour the success of her enterprise
depended. And I am led to believe that in my own country there are
also women, lacking neither in courage nor in knowledge, possessing
qualities of heart and head, whose sphere of labour possibly not so
prominent in the financial world, lies more closely knit to the heart
of things human. Such women to-day are occupied in attempting to
ameliorate the sufferings and injuries of their poorer sisters, who
too truly find life “a demd horrid grind.”
Present conditions have driven out those home occupations which half
a century ago were in vogue. Owing to machinery, they now have to
compete with men. Women--the exploited, the sweated, the squeezed,
more often the degraded--are defenceless, because politically, they
do not exist. History demonstrates that political justice precedes
social and economic equity! Hence the striving for women’s votes! I
often think that the angels must weep to see how things are managed
nowadays, in happy, Christian England!
But man, one-sided, because he only knows and mainly legislates for
his own sex, considers, like Lord Curzon, that in granting women
political existence, a change--the vast dimensions of which would
amount to a revolution, never before attempted in the history of the
world!--would be inaugurated--_opposed to the best interests equally
of the female sex and of the nation_!
If we were not filled with contempt for such a speech, we should
laugh at its puerility. Are the “best interests of the female sex”
then so immaculately provided for in a House where sit the “choice
and master spirits of the age”? Are they, we ask, when the vast
majority of the sweated classes of this country belong to the
voiceless female sex? When men _by their labour_ add barn to barn,
storehouse to storehouse? Or are their “best interests” safeguarded
when hunger stalks the land, and woman in default of a living wage,
too often sells her womanhood and helps to swell those weary crowds
of fallen ones, for whose misery, if God be true and no phantom of
the schoolman’s theology, man will have, sooner or latter, to atone
in tears of blood.
And what occurs when, in this Christian land of ours, woman protests
hotly against the injustice of laws to protect the strong, to crush
the weak, _vide_ those of divorce, and that which constitutes it a
punishable offence for a woman to solicit when man may do the same
with impunity!
She is seized by the throat! she is thrust into prison! she is
despitefully used! And this, in the land of so-called freedom,
under the ægis of a Government which tolerates Graysonian orations,
which winks at the spread of the seditious gospel of Keir Hardyism,
careless of how its baneful influence endangers the lives of our
fellow-subjects, and threatens to wreck our supremacy in India.
Why are these things so? Apparently because man’s conception of
fairness as regards women is on all fours with the ordinary Anglican
curate’s knowledge of protoplasm. It simply does not exist. That
women revolt at the idea of being his chattels any longer amazes him!
What does the average man care about the better side of women? The
only thing he wants of them is to contribute to his wealth, to pander
to his selfishness.
The temptation to digress was tempting. I will now retrace my steps
to the Bismarck Archipelago.
Not many minutes elapsed before Queen Emma entered the central room
of her spacious residence. She proved to be the lady I had previously
seen. Now she was differently garbed, gracious and stately, yet
keenly interested to know what brought her visitor to the island.
We soon fell into easy conversation. I desired to grasp the situation
in all its bearings, and the lady, as an authority on island trade,
was worth listening to.
“You should have called on His Excellency first,” she said smilingly.
“But you are the oldest resident, I think,” was my reply. It
seemed that notwithstanding my failure in complying with the usual
etiquette, she was not displeased at the priority of my visit.
“We were here long before the Germans made this a Crown Colony,” she
remarked.
“And did you experience any difficulty in establishing your claim to
property you had acquired from natives?” I asked.
“None whatever,” was the answer. “The Government were only too glad
to find such a respectable colonist.”
In acquiring lands from chiefs, she had insisted on their putting
their mark to “one fellow paper,” which to the kanaka constitutes
incontrovertible proof of lawful possession, though he knows no
more of its contents than he does of the interior of the moon. Not
only had she purchased land in New Britain and in New Ireland, but
at different periods had bought groups of coral islands, such as
the Mortlocks and the Fead Islands. It seems that when the Germans
took possession in 1885, the “one fellow papers” had been examined
and the territory thus purchased was regarded as lawfully acquired.
Naturally the price of copra is a never-failing topic of interest.
When I was in the Archipelago it was fetching £23 a ton. Queen Emma
said it had in previous years been as high as £25 and as low as
£13. The worst of the trade was that from eight to ten years must
elapse between planting and reaping; in her case, trading with the
natives had occupied those lean years. When once established, the
trees represented a never-failing source of income, since all that
is requisite is to keep the roots clean. They calculate that about
six thousand nuts go to a ton of copra; each tree should average a
yield of sixty nuts yearly, and one hectare, which may be bought
for a few marks, and equals two and a half acres, produces a ton.
The geographical situation leaves nothing to be desired in the way
of favourable conditions for the cultivation of copra. There are no
raging “blows” like the cyclones which scatter destruction over huge
areas in the West Indies. Although the region is one of volcanic
activity, destructive storms are rare. The climate is hot and damp.
December is the rainy month when the north-west monsoon begins.
South-east winds prevail from June to September.
The process of collecting the copra is simple in the extreme, the
“boys” scale the trees, collect the nuts, open them, hack up the
white part, which is then placed in the sun to dry. When ready, it
is put into sacks, and shipped mostly to Sydney, where it is used in
many ways. The soap factories, perhaps, take the largest quantity.
The firm of Forsyth employs on its different plantations twelve
hundred “boys.” The Gazelle kanakas are lazy and unfit. New
Islanders are preferable, but the black-skinned Bukas are considered
the best of all. They are big, powerful men, and I saw a great number
of them at work. The labourers who are brought from various parts
of the Archipelago to Herbertshöhe are given by the officials what
the natives call “one fellow paper,” which they keep religiously,
for they know by this time its value, should trouble arise with
their employers. This binds them to plantation labour for three
years. They receive their food and from six to ten shillings a week;
new loin-clothes, sticks of tobacco, a knife, and pipes at stated
intervals complete the wage.
[Illustration: LABOUR “BOYS”]
There seems, in years gone by, to have been a good deal of trouble
connected with recruiting native labour in the Pacific. With the
development of the sugar industries in Queensland, especially from
about the year 1875 to 1885, many cruelties undoubtedly took place.
A shameful traffic, called “blackbirding,” was carried on, in which,
to our discredit, the British led the way. Schooners would be
fitted out in Australian ports with a large hold, into which the
unfortunate kanakas were often pitched headlong. The captains of
these ships would obtain orders from the proprietors of sugar estates
in Queensland, at so much per head for every native brought home to
them. Then they would start for the islands, and at first try by
persuasion, or by barter, to induce the natives to return with them,
but these methods were not always successful, then they would row
to the shore, carry off any man or woman they could secure, and row
quickly away with their booty, which would be stowed in the hold.
The system was productive of much evil; reprisals on the lives of
white men were taken by enraged islanders, and in 1873 the scandalous
business came to the notice of the authorities. Ghastly facts could
be hushed up no longer, public feeling was aroused, and steps were
taken by the British Government to stop this wholesale kidnapping.
The outcome was the delimitation of their spheres of control by the
respective Governments of Great Britain and Germany, and in 1885, an
exchange was effected, by which the latter became possessed of the
islands of Isabel, Choiseul, the Shortland Isles, Bougainville and
Buka.
My hostess was interested in my remarks as to the way I had been
impressed by the “market,” which I had witnessed the previous day at
her sister’s house, and we discussed the all-prevailing ringworm.
“It comes from poor blood,” she said. “Some say it is the result
of centuries of cannibalism, but I don’t think so, and I will tell
you why. I know sometimes I have cured some very bad cases by just
seeing that they had regular meals and plenty of nourishing food,
yams, taro, just what they are accustomed to.” Then she proceeded
thoughtfully, “I don’t deny sometimes they get so diseased you can do
nothing for them, then the best is that they should die out as soon
as possible.”
She went on to tell me how that was the case in those atolls, known
as the Fead Islands, where the firm had plantations. Here in 1885
one hundred and sixty natives were alive; at present there are
not more than fifty, sixteen having perished through influenza in
1902. They were so weak that she would send no kanakas to continue
the race, for the sooner they were extinct the better. Now on the
Mortlocks, which had at one time belonged to the firm, she had placed
a few Gazelle natives, who had intermarried with the remaining
islanders, otherwise by this time there would be no inhabitants left,
and then who would do the plantation labour? In the neighbouring
island of Tasman the inhabitants are about three hundred in number,
and are fairly healthy, this she attributed to its less isolated
position, permitting of the occasional introduction of fresh blood.
Then the Sir Charles Hardy Group and the Carteret Islands, where
they had had a station for twenty years, and took annually about
120 tons of copra, were the home of quite another race than the
mixed people of Polynesian type who inhabited Tasman, the Fead and
Mortlock Islands. They were lazy, but they were vigorous and healthy.
Geographically, the islands formed stepping-stones from Buka in
the Solomons to New Ireland, and ethnographically the people were
interesting, since they showed the fusion of blood, resulting from
their islands being the meeting-place of the black Solomon islander
and the lighter-coloured Melanesian of New Ireland.
I spent a very interesting evening at this house, where I was much
entertained by the conversation of those who joined us later on.
“Do you know that Queen Emma presides over a native divorce court?”
a young Danish lady mischievously asked me, _sotto voce_. “You may
be shocked to hear it, but matrimony in New Britain is not always
blessed by the missionaries.”
“What do you mean?” I asked laughing.
“You know her word is law to the natives!” explained she. “Sometimes
unhappy Benedicts confide their married troubles to her private ear,
when she advises, ‘if Jane be tiresome, let her go to the man she
wants, and you try Dora instead.’ Her advice often turns out most
satisfactorily, and the newly-adjusted couples live happily ever
afterwards!”
CHAPTER VIII
I CALL ON THE GOVERNOR--SUN-WORSHIPPERS--THE MISADVENTURES
OF A DECADE--BRITISH COLONISTS--I INSPECT “POLICE BOYS”--A
“WHITE AUSTRALIA” POLICY CONDEMNED
It was with some misgiving that I found my way up the steep ascent,
which led to the Governor’s residence, commanding a magnificent
view. It was a large, straggling building; at the back of it there
were a number of outhouses which one passed on one’s way to the main
entrance. Spacious and lofty rooms led out as usual on to a wide
verandah overlooking Blanche Bay.
Her Excellency received me cordially; two ladies, one the wife of
a Wesleyan missionary, the other of a barrister, were present at
afternoon tea. Frau Hahl’s English was not so good as my German,
so we conversed in the latter language. She was a tall, handsome
woman of about thirty, belonging to the well-known family of Von
Seckendorf.
In answer to my inquiry concerning her health, she said she was now
acclimatised, and did not suffer as did so many from fever, probably
because the house was built on such high ground. She introduced
her little girl of three to me, and said she had only returned to
Germany once since coming out directly after her marriage. I thought
her charming, but hoped her husband would soon appear, for since I
had no babies to discuss and was not enthralled with the mysteries
of the culinary art, I felt somewhat at a loose end. A young German
girl, who acted as nurse to one of the ladies, roused my curiosity,
for although she had a somewhat striking face, she possessed the
very thickest ankles, covered with white knitted stockings of the
homeliest “bauer” type, I have ever gazed upon. Subsequently I learnt
her history. She had come from Germany some years previously, to join
a small band of sun-worshipping enthusiasts, under the leadership of
a man called Engelhardt, who at one time was a well-known musician
in Berlin.
Here, in an island at the entrance of the bay, these persons--at
any rate, those of the male sex--dressing themselves in the scanty
garments of the native, essayed to live not only “the simple life,”
but the life of the native, minus its bloodthirst. They subsisted
on cocoanuts and bananas, had huts for shelter in case of rain,
otherwise lived and slept under the arc of heaven, holding the sun as
the centre of life, and therefore to be adored.
As the members of the little society gradually died from the effects
of this change in their mode of life, the girl preferred to return to
civilisation, and eventually to her parents in Germany.
When the Governor made his appearance, I at once felt that I should
like him. Honest, genial, inclined to be friendly; he began at
once to speak in excellent English, and we immediately carried on
an animated conversation, for he was only too willing to tell me
of his experiences in the Archipelago. He was of middle height,
scarcely forty, inclining to be stout, but exceedingly active; in
fact, he seemed to carry with him an atmosphere of latent strength.
Of Bavarian family, he told me, he had been legal adviser to the
New Guinea Company several years before he succeeded Herr von
Benningsen, the first Governor. Though he had at different times
had severe illnesses--even that disease nearly always fatal to
Europeans in these parts--the black-water sickness--he was now used
to the extreme heat. In fact, only a man of good health, alert and
active, could do what was required of a Governor in such a young and
scattered dependency, dealing with natives of such treacherous and
fierce instincts as, for instance, the Admiralty islanders! It was no
armchair business! He had visited all the islands in the _Seestern_,
the German Government yacht, and there were few islanders with whom
he could not enter into some communication, for he had made a point
of studying the varying languages. This was necessary, since it
had frequently been his task to lead punitive expeditions against
natives who had killed managers or other Europeans in various parts
of the Archipelago. Had I not noticed the barracks near the hotel,
these were the quarters of his “police boys.” And he proceeded to
explain that in former excursions to chastise different islanders,
they had found that it was impossible for Europeans to chase them
through the dense bush along the tiniest tracks, which, as a rule,
lead to their secluded villages.
Therefore he had, with the aid of his officials, organised and
trained a native police for bush warfare, and hitherto they had
proved themselves a most effective force.
The fierce Admiralty boys were the best for this purpose. He could
get any number of them! Fighting was as the breath of their nostrils
to them! A man-hunt was their greatest joy!
Physically robust, though not of such big proportions as the Bukas,
they were infinitely more intelligent, their activity greater, and
their lithe, slim bodies could slip through dense bush where the
European had no chance whatever.
“Do you get all your police boys from the Admiralty?” I inquired.
“No, that would never do,” he laughed as he replied; “suppose they
were to combine against us, we should be wiped out. Look at our
numbers! Our safety lies in the fact of their being unable to talk to
each other. Some are from New Ireland, some are Sulkas, and so on.”
Then he talked on cannibalism, which prevails more or less in the
Protectorate where European influence as yet does not extend. In
fact, outside settled lands, no one knows how near one may not be
to a cannibalistic orgy. It seems, however, fairly established by
this time that the savage will brain a white man with much pleasure,
but that he will refrain from eating his flesh for fear of revenge
that the spirit of his victim may take at such interference with his
fleshy tabernacle. Mr Parkinson relates how a chief in the Shortland
Islands, a small group off the North Solomons, remarked to him,
“spirit belong white man no good,” whereby he meant that the black
man has nothing to fear from the spirits of his fellows whom he may
kill and on whose flesh he may gorge himself with impunity; but what
the white man’s spirit would do in a similar case is of the quality
of _x_, and best left alone. Thus the bodies of the ten murdered
missionaries at the station in the Baining mountains were all
recovered and buried.
A list of the misadventures and disasters since the Germans first
commenced to trade in these parts, is given by Dr Schnee in his book
on the South Seas, and to show how necessary it is to infuse into the
savage mind a wholesome terror of the white man’s vengeance, I select
some of the chief, occurring in one decade only:--
1885. Station at Kaboteron (Forsyth’s), trader
killed.
1886. Station in New Ireland (Hernsheim’s),
trader murdered and station wrecked.
1888. Station ruined at Kapsu (Hernsheim’s),
Captain H. and Chinaman killed.
1889. Trader killed (Forsyth’s).
1890. At the Fead Islands (Forsyth’s), trader
killed.
„ On a station (Hernsheim’s), trader killed.
1891. New Hanover station (Forsyth’s), two
Europeans killed.
„ In New Ireland, station ruined, two
whites killed.
1892. New Hanover (Forsyth’s), station ruined,
a German dangerously wounded.
1893. Trader murdered by natives of Gardner
Island.
„ At St Gabriel’s (Admiralty), two whites
and three coloured murdered.
„ Kaboteran (Deutsch Handel Co.), station
plundered, white trader killed.
1894. Captain B. attacked and wounded.
„ Station of Kabien in New Ireland, one
European, one Japanese and others
murdered.
„ A station in the Admiraltys (Hernsheim’s),
wrecked and a European killed.
Two things are mercifully withheld from the natives throughout the
Protectorate--firearms and European liquor--their sale is strictly
prohibited. All explosives are kept very carefully under German lock
and key. Only sufficient ammunition for each practice is doled out to
the “police boys,” and occasionally the little community discovers
(with a shock) that one has managed to secrete a small quantity.
“If not for philanthropic reasons, then on economic grounds we must
preserve the native and defend him from the consequences of his
ignorance,” declared the Governor, as he vehemently asked what was
the good to any country of tropical colonies without native labour?
White men could not cultivate the ground in these latitudes, nor was
it desirable they should if they could.
This was precisely the argument I had heard in Jamaica, and I told
his Excellency that the best authorities in the West Indies were
agreed that it was not advisable that the white man should place
himself on the same level as regards labour with the negro.
“Somebody must be top dog,” he laughed as he spoke. He told me he had
fifty-six officials under him in the Archipelago and twenty-eight in
the Carolines.
“I see you vaccinate the kanakas,” I remarked, having passed on the
way to his house a little crowd of natives waiting outside a special
building which served as the Government medical department.
“Indeed we do,” replied he. “The worst thing we dread is the
introduction of European diseases. These people would die off like
flies if we got an epidemic in the place.”
From one subject to another we approached that of British
colonisation, which his Excellency highly commended. Our holding of
India was to him a surpassing marvel. That enormous hive, containing
three hundred million souls, administered by less than one hundred
thousand white men, would prove to posterity the real greatness of
England, the administrative talent of Englishmen.
I left his residence just before dark to find at the hotel a company
of Admiralty “police boys” awaiting my arrival. Dr Hahl had ordered
them round for my inspection. In a few moments they tramped up on to
the verandah, gave me a martial salute, performed a few evolutions
and then lined up in front of me.
My Pidgin-English was not equal to conversing with their leader, but
I must admit, in the half light, their wiry limbs and wild, dark eyes
were weird to look upon. They were of middle height, darker perhaps
than the Gazelle natives, they wore loin-cloths and caps, and looked
at me as inquisitively as I gazed at them!
I was thoroughly pleased with my visit. Dr Hahl had promised to show
me some villages in the hills situated some distance inland before
I left New Britain, and elated with the prospect, I spoke of it to
Dr Thurnwald in one of our many post-prandial conversations that
evening. He had been busy collecting island curios and despatching
them in enormous packing-cases to Simpsonhafen _en route_ for Berlin.
Since his arrival in New Britain, he had photographed and taken
anthropometrical measurements of many natives, besides recording
nearly a hundred “Sing-Songs.” He had secured the services of a boy
from the Admiraltys, and from him was learning the language. Struck
with the superior intelligence of this savage, he often launched
forth in depressing jeremiads concerning the hopelessness of the
Gazelle people.
Another melancholy topic was the fact that apparently Germans would
settle anywhere else on the globe than in their own colonies. They
would flock to the United States; Sydney and South Africa were full
of them, any ready-made colony had the preference.
To this I assented, maintaining that some of the most useful and
industrious subjects of King Edward were plodding, prudent Teutons.
In repeatedly pondering over this subject, I have often wondered how
it is that individual members of admittedly the most martial nation
in the world, where one would naturally expect courage and initiative
to be leading features, do not show the same independent freedom of
action--that impulsive, headlong energy, heedless of risks, that
neck-or-nothing policy, with which the sons of Albion have flung
themselves against nature’s inhospitalities, compelling her to unlock
to them the fruits of their toil and labour. One finds them on every
shore, bringing into cultivation the waste places of earth, carving
homes out of lonely, primeval forests, confronting savage men and
wild beasts under blazing suns, trusting to luck and chance to pull
them through. Instances are numerous in Canada, in New Zealand, in
Australia, where high spirits and heroic hearts have earned fortune
after fortune, how young men have left home as steerage passengers to
return in middle age in comfort and in wealth. One is led to wonder
if these characteristics of indomitable pluck and iron resolution are
peculiar to the British race. The French do not shine as colonists,
and it seems that the subjects of the Kaiser must have the Government
behind them, postage-stamps and lager beer within reach, before they
will adventure themselves in unknown lands.
My scientific friend would ascribe the paucity of _bona fide_
settlers in German colonies to red-tapeism, and quote statistics of
officials _versus_ the latter.
But, for his comfort, I told him, it was just that minute attention
to detail which was the German’s strong point, where we could not
compete with him. Admittedly, his countrymen were the deepest and
closest of thinkers, taking every detail into reckoning. But, he
objected, that sort of thing was carried to excess: if you were
always bent on detail you were unfitting yourself for broad lines of
action which, after all, were the main things in colonisation, as in
life generally.
It was a fault, he thought, which had grown with the development of
the German nation. Before 1870, he argued, each little state had
its dukelet or its princelet, and round the little court everything
centred--nothing could be done without the consent of the head of the
state--there was no room for personal initiative when every pfennig
had to be accounted for to the central authority. For centuries the
men of his race had thought in circlets.
I could not discuss this interesting point with him for lack of
knowledge, but many daily incidents united to testify to my humble
powers of penetration that there was something in the mental make-up
of the Teuton which constituted him less fit than some for colonial
enterprise. He takes few risks. There is nothing, so far as I could
see, analogous to that attitude of mind with which many an Englishman
to my knowledge faces big issues, when, metaphorically, he shuts his
eyes and jumps.
It was interesting to note in the frequent conversations I held with
one and another, that although they upheld British colonisation,
there was a general consensus of dislike to the Australian policy
of “a white Australia.” Why, it was urged, since the huge continent
had only five million colonists, not define a territory in the north
where surplus Japanese might work out their salvation from the evils
of over-population. For this too-populous country would, in the near
future, inevitably, be the menace of the Pacific, since expand it
must.
To this I would lightly suggest that the Protectorate of New Guinea
might offer lands more attractive because more accessible to the
Japanese Government. This idea was not pleasing, but it became clear
to me that the future of Japan, so far as one could forecast it, her
wonderful powers of receptiveness and assimilation, the dauntless
courage and devotion to their country of her sons, is the subject of
some uneasy speculation in these islands, as it is elsewhere in the
South Seas. Yet in the past, during two thousand five hundred years,
Japan has only engaged in five foreign wars, though prior to the
seventeenth century conflicts between contending chieftains disturbed
the island’s peace. The land of the Mikado had evolved a splendid
mentality long before St Xavier reached it, and when, in recent
times, the flood of western light was turned on to its trained and
fertile brain, it was only like leading a scholar into new museums:
whereof the moral is that proper training in youth is the best
preparation for general adaptiveness in later years.
CHAPTER IX
SLAVERY FORMERLY PRACTISED--BAINING CHARACTERISTICS--AN
UNKNOWN RACE--THREE DEGREES OF RELIGIOUS DEVELOPMENT--
TINGENATABARAN--ETHICAL PERCEPTION OF THE SULKAS--
TAMBOO--MAGIC
I was looking forward with some curiosity to my promised visit to
bush kanaka villages about ten miles away, situated on the frontier
of settled territory in a south-westerly direction from Herbertshöhe.
The inhabitants I was given to understand had a trace of Baining
blood in them. On making inquiry, I found that in the short space
of four weeks it was impossible to compass a visit to the Baining
mountains, further west, where dwell the people so lately discovered
and ethnographically so interesting, because so distinct from others
in the Archipelago (as yet known). And since much speculation circles
round the Bainings, for all who know them regard them as the
probable aboriginals of New Britain, I think it may be desirable to
outline the events which brought the fact of their existence to the
knowledge of the German administration. In the kanaka language it is
significant that the word “Baining” means a “slave,” or, “one who
has to run!” and very fittingly has this name been applied, as the
following testifies:
It was in 1897 that news of a slave hunt was first brought to the
authorities by a Wesleyan missionary from a place on the north
coast of the peninsula called Kabakada. His report ran that in
the preceding year the natives of the small islands of Massava,
Massikunabuka and Urar had leagued together to entice an inland
people, living in the mountains, down to a given spot on the
seashore, under the pretence that they wanted to exchange goods for
taro and pigs. In response to their message, a goodly number of
Bainings, laden with produce, approached the canoes of the islanders
for purposes of barter, when they were suddenly seized by the
occupants, whilst others pushed the canoes off into deep water. The
Bainings, unable to swim, without arms, were easily captured and
fastened into the boats, when another party, who had previously
hidden their spears in the sand, killed the remainder.
About forty were massacred and some thirty enslaved, the bodies of
the slain being taken to the respective homes of the marauders and
eventually eaten. On receiving this news a punitive expedition was
at once sent to teach these evil doers that such practices were not
compatible with the white man’s rule. They offered little resistance,
most of them delivering up their slaves when called upon. The coast
was patrolled for a time, a few having escaped German vigilance. In
1898, with the destruction of the village, which was the headquarters
of the traffic, the rest of the slaves were given up and received
by the Roman Catholic Mission. Compared with the Gazelle kanakas,
this race is still less physically developed. A German traveller,
Gustaf Fritsch, says of them, that they are lighter in colour when
once the filth is removed. With the short nose depressed at the
root, he considers they resemble the Australian type. Their hair,
coloured with clay or chalk, hangs in wild locks over their faces;
some wear a scanty, goat-like beard and, says he, all have frightful
ringworm. His examination of about fifty skulls convinced him that
there were strong resemblances to those of certain Australian races.
Only as cannibals do they possess any affinity with other Archipelago
dwellers. They do not use shell-money; it is unknown amongst them.
Barter is their medium of exchange, and taro, pigs and bananas,
serve that purpose. They have no totems. In their dances, the sexes
dance together; throughout the islands the reverse of this is the
case. Water for washing purposes, says a writer, is unknown amongst
them, water for drinking purposes being often conveyed considerable
distances in hollow bamboo canes. Their huts, the most miserable in
Melanesia, are so small that one must crouch to enter.
Apparently, they differ too, from surrounding races, in that they are
agricultural nomads.
Dr Schnee, deputy governor in 1903, during Dr Hahl’s absence in
Europe, visited the Baining country and repeatedly found forsaken
huts in ruins. It seems the custom to build dwellings, cut down the
bush in the vicinity and plant taro, after a time to go away, and
perhaps, after a lapse of years, return to the same spot. He relates
in his book on the South Seas that some of these mountaineers, who,
for the first time in their lives, saw white men advancing towards
them, evinced no sign of surprise or fear, and this not from any
savage stoicism, but from sheer stupidity. He describes how they sat
stolidly watching his approach and, greatly to the disgust of his
native police, permitted themselves to be caught, without offering
the slightest resistance; yet they possess rude spears into which
bone is inserted, generally at the end, and there are also primitive
stone axes in use.
The Admiralty boys had scoffed at them as not worth calling men, and
had considered them dirty as pigs!
In connection with this primitive race who, whether they fled to the
mountains to escape volcanic eruptions, or whether, on the incoming
of more virile races, they withdrew to the more secluded region, is
not yet decided, it is interesting to note that in the mountainous
interior of the southern portion of New Ireland, there exists to-day
a people whom Europeans have never yet seen; but who, from reports
of natives living on adjacent coasts, seem to offer the possibility
of eventually proving to be racially allied with the Bainings. The
coastals describe them as speaking an unintelligible language and as
being antagonistic to them. Dr Thurnwald was hoping to make their
acquaintance during his stay. It is impossible, as it would be
unwise, to speculate as to whence and at what date the Bainings first
came to New Britain for the spread of primitive races, especially in
the Pacific, seems conditioned largely by geographical circumstances.
History, traditions, and soundings demonstrate often that, where
was once dry land, is now ocean floor. Geologists also declare that
in the miocene period Australia and New Guinea were probably joined,
and if the marsupial was the highest form of vertebrate found in
Australia, it is certain man, if evolved from mammals, must be looked
for elsewhere. As we can hardly imagine him entering that continent
by any other way than from the north, and taking into account the
volcanic nature of the region of Dampier’s Straits, the acknowledged
resemblance of the Baining to certain Australian types does not seem
altogether without features to commend it to our consideration.
Recollecting, too, that Java, where Dr Dubois at Trinil, in 1891,
found in pliocene strata his _Pithecanthropus Erectus_, is not so far
distant, one may reasonably be led to look for some of the oldest
types of man in this portion of the globe.
The very simplest belief in a spirit world, unaccompanied by
witchcraft of any description, very markedly distinguishes the
Bainings from every other race in the Archipelago.
Indeed, it appears to me most interesting, so far as present
information goes, to recognise in the three peoples which the German
Government have differentiated in New Britain, three distinct degrees
of development in religious belief.
The lowest form is certainly that belonging to this lately-discovered
race I have been describing, for the Bainings, who seem nearer the
animal kingdom than any other, have yet from the “loftiest fashion of
their sleep” evolved a kind of heaven. Here, and Mr Parkinson is my
authority, there are no localised spirits; however, in the absence
of that dread of evil from unseen influences, which is universal in
the Archipelago, there exists the faint glimmer of a belief in a
world surrounding them of impersonal and omnipresent spirit life;
the only thing at all approaching an embodied spirit is a weird
belief sometimes found amongst them of a mystic snake, which if it
eats personal _débris_, causes death to the possessor. These snakes,
known as _chankis_, live inside knotted and gnarled trunks of trees,
and are dangerous to mankind.
In points of development the beliefs of the Gazelle natives rank
second. Here incantations, spells, magic of all description are part
and parcel of everyday existence: the dread of evil spirits, with a
constant fear to arouse their enmity, is ever present; accompanying
this, there is a fairly defined belief in a heaven where it is
desirable for the soul of the departed to enter. The following
description of ceremonies attending the burial of their chiefs in the
Gazelle Peninsula affords an insight into their ideas of what befits
a man for a future existence. The dead body lies generally in the
hut for three days after death, during which time it is decked out
with flowers and with chains of tamboo, the acquisition of which is
the main object of the kanaka’s life. Tamboo, then, is wound round
the neck, over the shoulders and arms of the corpse which, in some
cases, is further and quite artistically painted with daubs and
circles of white and vermilion, the object of this being not so much
to make it ready for heaven as to make it “dam flash” to overawe an
admiring and gaping crowd of relations in the forthcoming Sing-Song.
The burial fires are then ignited outside the hut, a howling crowd
enter and lament around the corpse. After a big feast, when roast
pig is enjoyed by the company, the nearest relative hands out the
much-desired bequests of tamboo to his kindred, according to the
wishes and instructions of its former owner, when the corpse can be
buried. But all this, exciting though it be, with the screeching,
overfeeding, and big fires, accompanied the whole night through
with native music to facilitate and encourage the departing spirit
to enter on its new life, are but preliminaries leading up to the
culminating moment, when at early dawn on the following morning,
the crucial moment has arrived. For the soul of the deceased can
only enter into Tingenatabaran, that place in the far east where
souls plentifully supplied with tamboo go, at sunrise. If a cloud
appears on the horizon then the watchers know that the soul is
safely inside. Here it is met by the guardian of that sacred spot,
the spirit Tolamean, who asks the newcomer, “Where is the tamboo you
have brought?” and if the candidate seeking admission cannot meet the
requirements, it goes to Jakupia, a bleak, undesirable place. The
point here is that the quantity of tamboo forms the test condition
of entrance. The belief of the Sulka ranks higher than the latter,
inasmuch as the admission into heaven depends not on shell-money, but
as to the way in which the life has been spent on earth. Here we may
note the entrance of ethical perceptions into the mind of the savage.
The Sulkas have curious burial festivities. The corpse of a chief is
sometimes placed in a sitting position in a shallow hole dug in the
ground, from which his body from the waist is visible, over this a
hut is built, thatched with dried palm or banana leaves, the whole
enclosed within a ring of big stones, and fires are kindled. The
kinsfolk lie close by, men on one side, women on the other, when it
is whispered quietly from one to the other the desirable moment when
the party simultaneously, next morning, shall drive the soul out of
the deceased. This is effected quietly, that the spirit may not hear
and prepare itself to resist.
Early next morning, perhaps at sunrise, perhaps when the kaa (bird)
pipes its first notes, the sleepers spring up suddenly, set up a
fearful noise, pile loads of dry cocoanut wood on to the fires,
shake and rattle the frail, temporary hut, to frighten the dead
man’s soul away from its home, and thus speed it on its way to Mlol,
a mystic, undefined region, supposed to be somewhere in the middle
of the earth. Before the soul arrives there, it passes two rocks
named Kilkil and Kovangal, where its progress is stayed, and where
it is asked to give an account of its past life. If this is deemed
favourable, it proceeds on its way; if the reverse, it must return
and wander southward.
The Sulkas are afraid of some departed spirits, who, they believe,
return and prey upon mortals. Some, they think, return to shine by
night in the fireflies!
Meteors are souls of Sulkas, hurled from the highest heaven, to dip
into the sea. With this race, earthquakes, thunder and lightning
especially, are regarded as avengers of crime, and proceed from the
will of Kot, who is a powerful spirit unfriendly to men.
In the Gazelle Peninsula funereal ceremonies vary according to the
occupation and the standing of the deceased, and in the case of women
and children are of the simplest description.
Sometimes the skeleton of a chief will, after a year or two, be
disinterred, and the skull, painted with vermilion and adorned with
feathers, be hung up in some prominent place, where the neighbours
will assemble, dances and Sing-Song be held in its honour. It might
be supposed that ancestor-worship of some kind was the motive for
this homage to the dead, but Mr Parkinson states that this is by no
means the case, since the natives are quite ready to sell the skull
for a trifle.
The desirability of obtaining tamboo under all circumstances is
now the ruling passion of the kanakas. Not only does this mystic
and venerated medium of exchange pave the way to a more desirable
sphere, it also buys tobacco and wives, rights wrongs and compensates
injuries.
In olden times when a man died without visible wounds the cry was “he
has been bewitched,” and it was the duty of the nearest male relative
to discover and kill the enemy who threw the fatal spell, but now
that the European imposes his will and forbids human life to be
taken, matters are amicably arranged between the contending parties
by means of tamboo.
In the same way an injured husband does not now seek to kill the
invader of his marital rights, but the transgressor pays instead,
a sum of shell-money, which solaces the outraged feelings of the
defrauded husband. Owing to this phase of things, those savage
virtues which existed in pre-German days have not improved; on the
contrary, a slackening of the primitive code of morality has been
distinctly noticeable.
The origin of this shell-money was regarded by the kanakas of
inland regions, such as the vicinity of the Vunakokor Mountain, as
mysterious. Certain finer wits than the rest had the cunning to
attribute its manufacture to unearthly sources. By imposture of
different kinds, there have always been natives able to turn the
ignorance of their fellows to their own advantage, but the coastals
living in the region of Weberhafen on the north coast, know very
well whence it comes, whatever stories they may choose to spread
of its being showered on them by spirit hands, for yearly when the
south-east winds begin to blow, canoes are fitted out for lengthy
excursions to the vicinity of that volcanic group known as the Father
and Sons on the north-west coast. Sometimes they venture as far as
the William Peninsula, where they trade or use coercion with the
natives there for the tiny shells.
The value varies, the white being most prized, but a string a yard
long is worth from two to three marks. Chiefs who possess a good
deal of tamboo have special huts erected wherein to keep it. Much as
they love tamboo, witchcraft undoubtedly plays a more important part
in the lives of these savages than even cupidity. The simplest form
of magic is known by the name of Malira. It consists of a combination
of leaves, fruits, weeds, fibre, and such like, fresh, dried or
pulverised as the special recipe dictates, which is generally mixed
with the food of the person who is to be bewitched, or it may be
introduced with powder used in betel chewing, sometimes the spell
works when the person simply touches the magic concoction. A recipe
known to be effective is a godsend to its discoverer, he can sell it
for much tamboo.
The Malira is used mostly as a love-spell, to bring about an illness,
or for healing purposes. Its uses are manifold, but the native
distinguishes keenly between witchcraft and poison.
Another magical process is called Pepe, but the properties of both
are only the vehicles by which the ever-present spirits may or may
not effect that which is asked of them. The native has long since
come to the conclusion that his witchcraft is powerless against the
European, and his solution of that problem is that the white man,
whom he recognises as greatly his superior, comes from a land where
he has his own spells and his own special make of spirits.
The early residents at Herbertshöhe relate how, when they first
appeared in the island, the natives gave themselves the utmost
trouble to cast the strongest spells they knew over the new-comers;
but gradually as they found their magic unavailing, gave it up as
useless, since their spirits could not prevail against those of the
white men.
CHAPTER X
NATIVES HUMANELY TREATED--AUSTRALASIAN LADIES--VISIT TO THE
AUSTRALIAN METHODIST MISSION--NEW IRELAND DESCRIBED--SETTLEMENT
EFFECTED--HIGHER PLANE OF CULTURE
There was sufficient material in the daily life at Herbertshöhe to
fill many pages. I began to get accustomed to the ways and manners
of the place, although I was often amazed at the long hours through
which the Germans would “sit” and “soak,” to use a forcible if
inelegant expression.
Still, justice compels me to admit that British youths, generation
after generation, have shortened their lives by excessive drinking
in India. Now they have learned their lesson and find it does not
pay! Most of them look forward to the day when they may enjoy their
hard-earned pensions in England, and experience has shown that this
is rarely the case with those who in early manhood gave way to
drinking in hot climates.
In my early matutinal strolls about the little settlement I saw
plenty of natives. If alone in a plantation I always kept a good
lookout to the rear, having no wish to be surprised unawares. When
I saw one coming along the path behind me, I would turn to admire
the view, fix a calm but smiling gaze on the noiseless pedestrian,
which shyness, or some undefinable savage quality, prevented him from
returning.
I would wonder at times when I studied these elementary humans,
what pleasure the Almighty derived from the contemplation of His
handiwork. Were I not steeped in the belief that law and order,
otherwise evolutionary processes, govern this universe, the existence
of primitive man would make me cavil at “the goodness of God,” as
glibly expressed by some semi-educated clerics who, incurably blind
themselves, seek to lead those whose eyes are often wide open to the
Light. Such words as the following, even in the light of poetic
licence are, to my mind, incentives to disbelief:--
“God whose pleasure brought
Man into being, stands away
As it were a hand’s breadth off, to give
Room for the newly-made to live.”
Many a laugh we enjoyed over the jargon, known as Pidgin-English.
The kanaka’s description of a piano his mistress had just received,
amused me greatly: “Missus have one fellow big box, she fight him, he
cry!”
The fact that personally I never witnessed anything approaching rough
usage on the part of the Europeans at Herbertshöhe, must not be
omitted. In fact, it was repeatedly borne in upon my comprehension
that the plantation managers and others would have welcomed
additional powers to deal punitively with those they employed; but
the protective policy of the administration regarding the treatment
of these coloured labourers, based on the principle that without
natives torrid lands are useless, leaves nothing to be desired from
the humane standpoint.
As each day some resident would take me for drives or offer me
hospitality, I was able to stow away much miscellaneous information.
It should be understood that in this remote spot no vehicle is to
be hired, and if the Germans are unfavourably disposed towards a
visitor, the latter sees nothing.
On two occasions the manager of the hotel procured the loan of a
gig from a friend and drove me about nine miles in a south-easterly
direction to a plantation owned by the New Guinea Company, where
the wife of the manager with much hospitality received me. She had
not been in this colony very long, having lived in German East
Africa, where rubber constitutes a lucrative export. She was greatly
interested in the island entymology, and had taught one or two kanaka
lads to catch the butterflies without damaging them, and to place
them carefully between triangularly folded pieces of paper, for which
she paid them. I was given a good selection, for which I was truly
grateful. The drive to her house led uphill, mostly through the New
Guinea Company’s plantations, and past several managers’ houses. The
first time, the youthful Bavarian who drove me was like a boy let
loose from school the moment the hotel was out of sight. He chatted
and laughed, and when we came upon groups of kanakas clearing a road,
his humour knew no bounds.
“Oh! you one fellow kanakas, you work too hard, far too hard, you’ll
die too soon for sure!” he roared at them, pointing with his whip,
and laughing loudly at their looks of blank astonishment, as he
chaffed them over the languid ease which characterises the movements
of this physically weak race.
In the evening, the good-natured fellow drove all the way out again
to fetch me, and then on each occasion we took at breakneck speed
short cuts over cart tracks, bumped this way one moment, and with
the rebound holding on for dear life the next, but in the highest of
spirits reaching the hotel before dark in time for dinner.
Another evening I took some lantern slides of Jamaica to the Roman
Catholic schoolhouse, being escorted thereto and back again by two
intelligent youths. In one of the class-rooms I held forth to the
half-caste children and the sisters upon the beauties of the West
Indies, whilst two of the Fathers manipulated the lantern.
Amongst the European residents at the afternoon tennis-parties,
presided over by Queen Emma, I made the acquaintance of two
Australians and a New Zealander. The former were from Sydney, and
the husband occupied the position of manager of the Forsyth stores
at Herbertshöhe, his wife lived in a small house not far distant.
The latter had first made the acquaintance of the colony and of
her future husband under the auspices of the Australian Methodist
Mission. The excitement of converting cannibalistic natives from the
errors of their way had paled before the attractions of matrimony,
and she had espoused a German manager, belonging to the Forsyth firm,
and lived very happily some ten miles distant. She was kind enough
to invite me to stay a few days with her before leaving New Britain.
The above mission, founded by Dr George Brown in 1775, had as its
first sphere of labour the opposite coast of New Ireland, where, at
Hunter’s Harbour, the intrepid missionary in the _John Wesley_ first
anchored. The same year, however, saw also the foundation of a second
station at Nodup, on the north of the Gazelle, just at the foot of
the Mother. The mission is continuing its active work, aided by
Samoan cathechists, some of whom I saw when escorted by Queen Emma in
her steam-launch to Raluana, a few miles along the shores of the bay
westward of Ralum, to visit two Australian ladies who were finding
the work of teaching strenuous and the mode of life somewhat harder,
I fancy, than they had bargained for.
The workers are not under vows to remain; most of them return home
after a few years spent in this extensive mission-field. The pointed
meaning of Bishop Coppée’s remark: “We are here for life,” was
apparent. It was not difficult to sum up for oneself in which of the
two rival communities lay real heroism.
Then on different occasions I was taken by one of the partners of the
Forsyth firm through their plantations, where besides copra, rubber,
planted three years before, was not sufficiently established to yield
handsome returns. A German war-ship had entered Blanche Bay, and one
morning the honour of an invitation to an official lunch from their
Excellencies reached me. Seated opposite to Queen Emma, an imposing
figure for the occasion, the Governor, who sat between us, proved
himself a perfect host, as well as a brilliant conversationalist.
Another day a delightful picnic was organised, and we started from
Ralum in three or four carriages of sorts, our destination being a
newly-made reservoir built for plantation purposes, through which
a running stream flowed, some eight miles distant. Here we were to
have a swim before lunch, when the gentlemen were to join us. On
our way we found the way blocked by a fallen tree; several kanakas
were endeavouring to remove it, but without success. I wondered what
would happen, for our little cavalcade had come to a full stop on
rising ground, much to the apparent distaste of a pair of fine horses
harnessed to the high carriage wherein I had been invited to seat
myself. Queen Emma, however, showed herself full of resource. She
sprang out of the little low carriage she was driving, and directed
the natives to hack a way through the dense bush which flanked the
narrow roadway: thus we circumvented the obstruction. The drive
back was exciting to the Danish lady and myself. Our native driver
who sat in front, totally unable to control his horses, allowed
them to plunge madly down a long hill, at the bottom of which was a
brook filled with water. We swayed and bumped down the rough road,
got splashed up to our eyebrows, but fortunately the steep ascent
the other side quieted the creatures somewhat, and though I am not
nervous behind good horse-flesh, certainly a special Providence had
us in His keeping as we swished round sharp corners, arriving safely
at Ralum before the rest of the party. Late that evening I returned
to the hotel in my hostess’s rickshaw, it being pitch dark.
At meal-time Dr Thurnwald was always interesting; from him I learnt
a good deal of what the Germans had done in New Ireland. This long,
narrow island, 240 miles in length, where there are continuous
mountain chains, containing porphyry, basalt and volcanic rocks,
possesses altitudes rising to 10,000 feet. The approaching visitor
in many places sees nothing but virgin forests extending from the
sea-shores to the heights beyond. Both on the east and west coasts
the mountains mostly skirt the shores, and but little strand is
visible. In the rainy season deep intersecting chasms and valleys are
washed by mountain torrents.
In this island, says Dr Thurnwald, there is a marked difference
between the people of the northern part to those of the south of New
Ireland, who are considered to be racially allied to the kanakas
of the Gazelle Peninsula. In the north they display far superior
intelligence, and therefore are preferred for plantation labour,
but owing to its mountainous character, the island does not present
such opportunities for cultivation as New Britain, and another great
obstacle to its development lies in its lack of good harbours.
Excepting on the south coast there is very little anchorage. Of the
interior, as yet, not much is known.
In 1888 Count Joachim Pfeil crossed from east to west, opposite the
Duke of York Islands, where the mountains are several thousand feet
lower than the rest of the chain. The region is highly volcanic, and
in the islands of St John and Caens, with Gardner and Fischer on the
east coast, hot springs abound, and there are many extinct craters.
The coasts are now familiar to Europeans, who constantly pass up and
down from Herbertshöhe to Nusa in the extreme north, where after
much difficulty and several catastrophes, the Germans have at last
succeeded in establishing settlements.
The first enterprise in this remote locality was effected by the
Hernsheim firm in 1880, and not long after a second was established
at Kapsu, some twenty miles south of Nord Cape. The efforts of the
pioneers have been most successful, and a network of good roads
connects the little port of Nusa with the surrounding plantations. A
few of the coral islets in Byron’s Straits, which divide New Ireland
from New Hanover, have been placed under cultivation, and in the
south-east of the last-named island there are level tracts which will
probably also serve for the growing of copra.
Before the establishment of a police station, the natives were
exceedingly troublesome, but they have now learnt to respect the
“mailed fist,” and have settled down into an industrious people,
making roads from one village to another and keeping them in good
order. In this locality cannibalism is a thing of the past, though
it flourishes in parts of New Ireland where European rule does not
yet extend a salutary check.
Totemism obtains amongst the northern inhabitants of New Ireland,
polygamy is fashionable, initiation ceremonies for youths, with
seclusion before marriage for brides, are customs in full force.
Cremation plays an important part in the funeral ceremonies;
sometimes a figure to represent the deceased accompanies the
proceedings which, at the conclusion of the festivities, is flung
into the flames with the corpse.
One feature, unique in the Archipelago, connects the inhabitants
of Siara, a district lying to the south of Cape St Maria, with the
natives of the St John and Caens Groups, between whom there is
friendly intercourse which, in these latitudes, generally points
to more or less blood relationship. Here Polynesian influence is
distinctly discernible in the tattooing. It is generally practised by
the women of the locality, and their naïve fancy objects to see both
sides of the face alike; therefore on one cheek a native will have
lines depicting the fronds of a fern, on the other circular tracings
denoting the section of a nut which grows in the district.
CHAPTER XI
EARLY START TO VISIT BUSH KANAKAS--A TERRIBLE TRAGEDY--
GOVERNOR’S CLASSIFICATION OF ARCHIPELAGO PEOPLES--DENSE
BUSH--NATIVE VILLAGES--METHOD OF CATCHING FLYING FOXES
One fine morning having breakfasted I stood on my verandah listening
for the sound of wheels. Punctually at 5.45 his Excellency appeared
in a little, low, pony carriage belonging to his wife. Light gigs are
generally used, but as Dr Hahl kindly considered my comfort, for the
drive was long and the way uphill, he had given the preference to
this vehicle.
Our destination was the police and telephone station of Thomá, over
1000 feet above sea-level, situated twelve miles inland, at the
extreme limit of German settled territory inland. Energetic, alert,
and emphatic, the Governor talked as he strode along beside the
horse where the road was rough and steep.
Ascending in a south-westerly direction, “far from gay cities and
the ways of men,” for the most part between the plantations of the
New Guinea Company and those of the firm of Forsyth, occasionally
passing a manager’s house, a beautiful view of Blanche Bay, with the
volcano opposite, flanked on the east by the majestic contour of the
mountains of New Ireland, was afforded us. On its gleaming waters,
shallow over the reefs but of great depth where the passage for the
mail steamers is indicated, a small steam launch belonging to one of
the firms was busily hurrying to Matupi; nearer to the shore, like
tiny dots on the surface, natives in their canoes were fishing. A
small steamer lay off the landing-sheds of the Catholic Mission;
probably it had brought a load of timber from the station of St Paul
in the Baining country, the Governor thought, then referring to the
able and successful Bishop Coppée, he declared that as statesman,
as settler, and as missionary, the prelate’s gifts were of the
first order. Their politics, naturally antagonistic, had at times
brought them into collision with each other, but that in no way had
prejudiced him against the ecclesiastic, who was in duty bound to
work for the extension of his Church.
When we were not very far distant from Thomá, a settler’s house
was pointed out as the scene of a terrible tragedy, in 1902, when
the inhabitants of those native settlements we were about to visit
had been severely punished. I had heard of this in the hotel, and
indeed had met the husband at dinner one night whose wife and child
had been murdered. It appeared that Frau Wolf with her little boy
and Miss Parkinson, who was staying with them, was holding a market
upon the verandah in the front of her house, when a body of natives
entering unseen from the back, passed through the central living room
and brained the poor lady to death, also killing the boy. The other
lady was hidden in an outhouse by a friendly native, from which she
eventually, by crawling through the bush, reached Herbertshöhe.
The reason for this outrage seemed to be that the lady’s husband
had disturbed for agricultural purposes, some old burying-grounds
belonging to their _gunans_.
His Excellency went on to explain that although the natives were
treacherous and cruel and only understood fighting as ambushing their
foe, yet he had found them uniformly loyal to blood relationships.
He proceeded to discuss the Archipelago races from an ethnographical
point of view, so far as he had as yet made their acquaintance in his
frequent expeditions. The following is an outline of their racial
affinities.
In New Britain the coast natives of the Gazelle Peninsula, the
inhabitants of the Duke of York Islands, and the coastals of the
south of New Ireland possess affinities in language, customs, and
physique, although they speak in many dialects. This demarcation
includes the islanders from Massava on the north to Löndup on the
east coast with those living on the islands of Massikunabuka,
Massava, Urar, Watom, and Matupi, and stretches inland as far as the
Varczin. In New Ireland it includes all living on the coasts south of
Gardner Island, taking in St John’s, Caens Island and Gerrit Denys.
The Taulils living south-west of the Varczin, though few in number,
are to be regarded as a complete race. They resemble their neighbours
in the Gazelle Peninsula, but have a different grammatical language.
The Bainings living in the mountains to the west of the peninsula
differ in appearance, customs, and speech, from any people living in
the Archipelago.
The Sulkas living round Cape Orford are apparently a distinct race
in language, customs, and appearance. These people by artificially
binding the temples in infancy, cause the region of the occiput
to protrude, and the peculiarity has earned for them the name of
“Spitzköpfe.” Its apparent isolation is curious. New Hanoverians
and the natives living north of New Ireland, including Sandwich,
Fischer, and Gardner Islands, differ from the first people
described--less in appearance than in customs and speech--but
notwithstanding the various dialects are nearly related to each other.
Buka and Bougainville are inhabited by almost black Solomon
islanders, different in speech and appearance to the others.
The Carteret and Sir Charles Hardy Groups are the meeting-places of
the lighter-coloured New Irelanders with the dark Buka.
The Admiralty islanders are different to any others in appearance and
language. The Papuan frizzy hair is to be seen here as well as the
Polynesian curl.
The natives of St Matthias, Storm and Hunter Islands, resemble those
of New Hanover.
The fast-disappearing inhabitants of the Hermits, the Anchorites and
the Exchequer Islands, show very mixed traits; whilst those of Matty
and Douro point to Malay or Mongol origin.
Having arrived at Thomá, we left the carriage and ascending a hill
obtained a splendid view of the district and of the mountains to
the west. Then our way led along a wide road which eventually would
join Thomá to Simpsonhafen. Here we met several natives, who seemed
to have plenty to say to the Governor concerning the making of this
road, which is the condition upon which they hold their reservations.
Compared with the tigerish aspect of the Admiralty natives, these
bush kanakas looked almost imbecile. As bush natives they are
different from the coastals. The chief was pointed out. His scanty
goat-like beard and general bearing were by no means impressive.
When Dr Hahl explained that we were going to visit their villages,
several immediately offered to escort us. Soon we plunged into bush
shoulder-high, and followed our guides on a well-beaten but very
narrow, tortuous track. I do not recollect how long we were before
we came, walking always in single file (_gänsemarseh_) to a clearing
where bananas and cocoanut-palms, with taro, were cultivated; but
in that heat, for it was nearly ten o’clock, it seemed a very long
distance. A circuitous path then led to the entrance of the palisaded
hillock, chosen by this family group doubtless for its possibilities
of defence. A thick fence, made of closely-staked, split, bamboo
poles, from five to six feet high, securely fastened to each other
by ratang grass, enclosed a space not exceeding half an acre. Here
some seven or eight low, oval-shaped huts, thatched with dried palm
and banana leaves, clustered at the extreme opposite to the entrance.
My surprise was great at the cleanliness of the ground, which was
indeed swept and garnished, not in anticipation of our visit, but
on account of the ingrained fear which these people have of magic;
for if an enemy possessed himself of some _débris_, like crushed
cocoanut, or of personal matter, such as hair, nails, he would, by
his incantations, weave a spell against the possessor, who probably
would die in consequence. I learnt that everything was collected most
carefully and safely buried. On my inquiry as to where were their
women, they replied that they were away at market, but they pointed
out a girl, who was sick, lying on a mat of woven palm inside a hut.
We were invited to enter a dwelling about twelve feet long and five
or six broad. It was necessary to stoop to get inside, nor could one
stand upright when there. Excepting for native mats on the ground,
the place was bare! No pottery! No household utensils! A compartment
at the further end served as sleeping accommodation for the unmarried
daughter. Water was brought us to drink from a hollow bamboo cane.
In one hut I espied the embers still hot where a fire for cooking
purposes had been kindled on the floor. We sat upon the curved trunk
of a palm-tree and assuaged our thirst with the contents of the
chief’s cocoanuts. The latter showed us the proper way to enjoy this
beverage, pouring the liquid down his throat without swallowing it.
We tried to imitate him, but failed ignominiously. Not far from where
we sat the chief’s hut was situated, and immediately in front of it,
on a spot of recently turned soil, three crotons were planted, the
centre was allowed to grow much higher than its neighbours. The three
were laced together by twigs. At the roots some cocoanuts which had
dropped from the trees were stacked. This betokened that they were
_tabu_ or sacred to the chief. I saw in several other places in the
settlement this curious sign, denoting that property thus placed was
not for the common herd. After a short time we were then conducted
to another fenced enclosure, always through bush. Here there was but
one long hut, which belonged to the unmarried men of the village, who
were away also.
[Illustration: AN ATTRACTIVE BACHELOR]
We were again invited by our guides to enter, which we did, but it
was impossible to stand upright. Suddenly I started, for a black
object suspended from the roof hit my nose. The Governor laughed, cut
it down and, with the native’s consent, presented it to me. It was
not an inviting object, on nearer inspection being nothing less than
a dried bat! It was explained that the bachelors preserved them to
present to their prospective brides. Since returning to Europe it
was interesting to read in a publication issued by an Australasian
scientific society, in a paper describing the folk-lore of the
aboriginals of New South Wales, the following statement: “Over a
very wide area of the Australian continent, the bat is held in great
reverence.” The writer then went on to say: “In most tribes with
which I am acquainted, the _bat_ is considered sacred to man, and
figures frequently in their legendary lore.” Gazing around, I noted
that the men who had brought us here were deep in conversation with
each other, and from their glances I guessed they were remarking upon
my personal appearance. I asked Dr Hahl what they were saying about
me. He was much amused as he listened to them, and it was evident
they were interrogating him as to my presence in their midst. Then he
smilingly explained that I had made a great impression upon them, and
that they had asked if I were not a queen, or a very important person
in my own country.
“I suppose the reason is that you are piloting me round?” was my
questioning remark.
“Not at all,” replied he, “it is because they have never seen a woman
as big as yourself!”
I asked him then to find out if these bush kanakas venerated any
special animal. He talked a little with them and then said: “They
hold no totem in respect. They say they are not like the coast
people, who come of pigeons or of fish, they came from the hills, and
can take wives where they choose.”
A long walk to a distant settlement led again through dense bush, but
at one place there were some very tall trees. Here we saw a snare
set to catch flying foxes, always considered by the natives as a
delicacy. A tree was selected for its great height, a long bamboo
pole was fixed, slanting outwards to the trunk as near the top as
possible. From the end of this a string with an ingenious contrivance
of meshes was fixed, the other end being fastened to a stake driven
firmly into the ground. When the fox alighted upon the bamboo, it
was suddenly enmeshed in the string.
In the next village we watched natives catch a chicken. One man
squatted on the ground with one end of his twine in his hand, the
other being fastened to a stake about ten paces away. The string
between, lay loosely on the ground in an oblong loop held in place by
tiny twigs stuck in the sandy earth. Another native scattered scraped
cocoanut around and called to the chicken.
When the latter began to peck within the loop thus made, the string
was drawn instantaneously and the fowl was thus caught by the leg by
the man squatting some paces off on the ground.
On our return to Thomá, the natives led us by what we were given to
understand was to be a short cut, but it proved to be a very long
and fatiguing walk. One struggled up steep cliffs to descend them by
clinging on to shrubs and trees.
The Governor accelerated the pace, which was fairly smart before;
the heat was tremendous, for it was approaching noon.
He explained when at last we had Thomá in sight, that he had
foolishly left his revolver at home!
CHAPTER XII
DUTIES OF A CHIEF--_UVIANA_ AND _LULUAI_ DESCRIBED--_KAMARA_
USED BY EUROPEANS--STATUS OF WOMEN--NUPTIAL, SYMBOLIC AND
OTHER CEREMONIES--_VUVUE_ FEAST--TREPANNING
From a study of Mr Parkinson’s lately published work, to which I have
so frequently referred, it is clear that there are great varieties
amongst the customs and manners of allied peoples, yet to one who
looks beneath the surface, there is a basic principle underlying all
these diversities. The same feature applies equally to the numerous
dialectical differences. A reason for this may be ascribed to the
sparse and secluded settlements which rarely include two or more
_gunans_. Generally, when the family becomes enlarged, one or more
members separate and form a clan of their own.
The chief (a _gala_), is the headman of the family group,
responsible for the good or bad management of its possessions,
and cases have been known when failing to perform his duties
satisfactorily, he has been superseded by his brother, or by his
sister’s son, who would respectively (in case of death), be his
heirs. He it is who buys wives for the youths of the _gunan_. By
their labour in his cultivations they subsequently repay his outlay.
He is treasurer of the highly-prized tamboo, and must be an expert
as to the value of the different kinds of shell-money, as well as in
the methods of increasing it by obtaining good interest for it. His
hut represents the banking house of the clan. His duty is to provide
sufficient food for the community, to insist on the cultivations
being properly attended to. He may only alienate lands belonging to
the _gunan_ after due consultation with the other members. Being
generally a financial genius, he manages to get good pickings for
himself from the treasure he guards for the rest, and often attains
the distinction of becoming known as _uviana_, _i.e._, a very
wealthy man. Apparently the chief does not always lead his people to
battle, although he may unite in his person the offices of financier
and commander-in-chief. Sometimes a younger man may have earned a
reputation for prowess, and by his own merits becomes the “first war
lord!” Such a one is called _luluia_ and possesses many privileges.
He may manage his own concerns, keep his own tamboo, and is not
directly under the authority of the chief. When the trumpet signal
is raised and the _gunans_ are summoned to assemble in an appointed
place, it is surprising how quickly they respond to the call, to
learn the cause for which they are wanted. It may be that one of
their number has been killed, or somebody has been robbed of his
wife, or that an enemy is known to be on the war-path. Sometimes a
_gunan_ finds itself menaced by a stronger foe, then men, women and
children, laden with the treasures of the community, start quickly
into the bush to hide the tribal regalia till the trouble is over.
Nowadays, however, most disputes are amicably settled by payments of
shell-money. After deciding the amount, the mediators from the two
opposing parties exchange clay and betel-nut, and thereby set the
seal to, sometimes, lasting peace.
There is a custom, called _kamara_, which should be mentioned in
this connection, as it is used effectively at times by Europeans.
A resident near Herbertshöhe found that he was constantly robbed
of agricultural produce, and was quite unable to detect the thief
till an old chief advised him to use _kamara_. In accordance with
his suggestion the German took away a canoe belonging to a kanaka,
telling the latter of the frequent losses he had sustained, and
requiring him to discover the perpetrator. Needless to say, the
stolen articles, or others in compensation, found their way back to
the European, and the canoe was quickly restored to its owner. It
was afterwards discovered that spies had been placed all over the
plantations and at the markets held at the white man’s house to
facilitate the capture of the thief. Thus _kamara_ has often been
used with success.
Woman in the Gazelle Peninsula has a right to live only because she
has a right to work; for this purpose, if for no other, she came into
the kanaka’s world, and--
“If she be small, slight-natured, miserable,
How shall men grow?...
... let her make herself her own
To give or keep, to live and learn and be.”
She is his property, and must labour in the fields for him. If any
person injures her, so as to render her incapable of performing
the same, he must pay a sum in compensation. Failure to keep the
matrimonial compact is regarded as not so serious as _pulu_, which is
marrying or having unlawful relations with one of the same totemic
division. This is punishable with death (unless the missionary or
Government intervene), which is meted out to the offender by a
brother or maternal uncle. In case of disagreement or of death, the
woman returns to her relatives, from whom she may be bought by a
second husband. Marriages are generally arranged by the uncle of the
bride and the father of the bridegroom. The exchange of presents,
of tamboo and feasting, are the chief features of the matrimonial
ceremonies, but the young people seem to have opportunities given
them to discover for themselves whether the proposed union will be
agreeable. For several days before the nuptial event the bridegroom,
accompanied by a friend, visits his _fiancé_, who prepares food for
him. If he does not admire her, he refuses the food she offers, and
if the girl objects to her future spouse, it is only under compulsion
that she offers him bananas or taro, etc. As a final test condition,
a fire is made outside the hut on a certain day. If the lady,
after due consideration, approves of her bridegroom, she turns her
face towards him; if she refuses to look at him, it means that she
insuperably objects to him as a husband. After this, if the relatives
fail to persuade her to change her mind, they resort to magic and
love-spells, and if that does not bring about the desired result,
the affair is at an end and the money restored.
Etiquette demands that sons-in-law should not eat or chew betel with
their parents-in-law, nor should they call them by name. When an
infant is entering the world the magician is always much in request.
He appears with a basket of charred coral, and taking pinches of it
between his thumb and forefinger, muttering spells the while, wafts
it in the air in every direction to frighten away bad spirits. If
the newcomer is a boy, the women cry, “Hüh, hüh, hüh,” if a girl,
“Huh, huh!” The christening ceremony takes place generally the day
following; presents of shell-money being always exchanged between
the wife’s relations and the husband. A heap of leaves chosen from
plants of mystic virtues is set alight. If it be a boy, a spear and
sling and stone are laid beside the fire, a stick for planting, a
bamboo knife, and other articles which he will use in the course of
his life. A woman then takes the baby and waves it through the smoke,
saying, “Grow big. Earn much tamboo. Throw the spear! Hurl the
stone!”
In the case of a girl the words are: “Grow up! Grow strong to work,
so that you may compel the field to bring forth.”
The magician, who is always present, holds his hands in the smoke,
and taking some ashes in his fingers touches the eyes, ears, nose
and mouth of the child, that it may be guarded against evil spirits.
Then the infant is named after a relative or friend, for which
privilege the father pays a small sum. The choice of names is limited
to those within the cognisance of the kanaka intelligence. Bamboo,
bread-fruit, and such like are the vogue.
Symbolic ceremonies are by no means restricted to the occasion
described. At funeral observances they play a great part. During
the obsequies of a coastal native, whose occupation in life has
been fishing on the reef, someone present will bring sea-water in a
hollow bamboo cane and sprinkle it upon the ground before the corpse,
signifying the farewell the deceased must now take of that which
in his life was so familiar to him. In the same way a basket of
earth will be shaken out before the dead body of a landsman, taro,
bananas, and other products being placed close by, denote that all
these articles must now be left behind. Sometimes the canoe may serve
as a coffin, and be interred with the corpse. The mourners on these
occasions present ghastly spectacles; they cover their bodies with
soot and oil mixed well together, and renew the coating daily until
the period of deepest mourning has passed. There is one distinctive
circumstance in the life of the _gunan_, of which mention should be
made, especially as it affords striking proof of that cupidity, which
is one of the greatest forces in operation in the Gazelle Peninsula.
This is the feast of the _vuvue_, and its mode of procedure is as
follows: A rich man (_uviana_) distributes amongst the men in his
neighbourhood all sorts of wares. Nowadays these include European
goods, and range from knives and belts to tobacco and pipes. Formerly
the articles were weapons and agricultural products. The receiver
knows that, sooner or later, he must pay for the goods. On the
day appointed for due payment a hut is carefully and artistically
constructed, a tempting spread is prepared, consisting of cooked
fish, roasted fowls, roasted taro with cocoanut sauce, and other
inviting delicacies. Men, women and children gaily bedecked with
flowers and feathers and all those articles which constitute native
full dress, assemble. Family groups from surrounding villages form
up for the dances and Sing-Songs which accompany every friendly
gathering. Then each _gunan_, so far as noise is concerned, does
its utmost to outdo those who have gone before. Meanwhile the
correct behaviour on the part of the giver of the feast is to assume
absolute indifference to the proceedings. After the dancing the
natives of each community pass in front of him, and lay at his feet
their payment in tamboo. But nobody could be more alive to his own
interest, or note with a keener eye those whose deposit is not full
payment for goods received, in an assemblage possibly numbering
several hundreds. Natives who attend the _vuvue_ without the needful
shell-money are marked men, and no great time elapses before pressure
is put upon them to pay up and look pleasant.
Generally the _vuvue_-giver makes a very good thing out of it. I
was told that as much as 750 marks (£37, 10s.) has been realised on
the outlay. This custom, however, like many others, is changing its
character under the new conditions engendered by the advent of the
white man.
Although these natives have no knowledge of pottery and of weaving,
their large weirs for fishing and their nets show considerable skill.
Formerly women were allowed to take no part in this industry, but
even here an improvement has taken place, and women may be seen
on the shore adjusting fishing-tackle. These weirs, or crate-like
baskets, are sometimes visible on the surface of the water, sometimes
they lie on the floor of the reef. Fish, besides being netted, are
occasionally speared. Off the island of Matupi a curious custom
prevails: tiny fish are caught, opened and stuffed with a preparation
of leaves, producing a stupefying effect. These are then used as bait
for bigger fish, which generally feed on them, the narcotic causing
them to come to the surface of the water, when the kanaka in his
canoe easily catches them.
On the north coast of the peninsula, in the vicinity of the islands
of Urar and Massava, the catching of tortoises is an occupation of
several days’ duration. This is only undertaken when the south-east
winds are blowing. The eggs are greatly sought after, and a tortoise
will often lay over one hundred.
Another island on the north coast, called Vlatom, possesses the
monopoly of a certain make of canoe, easily recognisable by the shape
of its beak-like prow. Dug-outs with outriggers on the left side
are used in these seas, the ornamentations varying with different
localities.
Perhaps the greatest skill displayed by the ethnographical division
to which the Gazelle kanakas belong, is that displayed in native
surgery. Their knowledge of the different organs of the body is
evidenced by the way in which gunshot wounds have been treated, but
in the art of trepanning they seem to have been unusually successful.
Mr Parkinson showed me skulls bearing traces of this treatment,
and he can point to natives still alive who in years gone by have
undergone this operation. If during a fight a native falls, struck
by a stone from an enemy’s sling, he is taken straightway to a man
skilled in the art of trepanning, who at once diagnoses the case.
If the stone has penetrated the temples, he immediately declares
that it is hopeless to operate, but if the wound is in the frontal
region, he washes first his hands and afterwards the patient’s wound
in the liquid of a young cocoanut, then with a sharpened shell or
an obsidian splinter, he makes a transverse incision. Meanwhile two
assistants gently and slowly draw back the scalp. The next thing is
to remove the injured bone. This is generally effected by the use
of sharp pieces of the cocoanut, until the brain is visible, which
the operator then inspects with the utmost care. If he observes a
slight pulsating sensation, he is satisfied that a speedy recovery
will ensue; if such is not present, he considers that something
has pierced the brain, and commences to search for it. If he is
successful and finds it, the next process is to scrape the edges of
the opening he has made until they are quite smooth and until the
hole is round, or elliptical. He then covers the aperture with a
piece of the bark of a certain tree or with the leaf of a special
kind of banana previously warmed. The two sides of the severed
scalp may then be replaced, the hair in the vicinity is cut off
and the wound again washed with cocoanut fluid. To keep the scalp
in the right position a network of ratang grass is drawn over the
upper part of the head. To conclude the treatment without recourse
to those unseen influences which appeal so strongly to the savage
is impossible. A species of bandage, made from leaves belonging to
plants possessing magical properties of highly curative repute,
is bound round the temples. The psychic value of this doubtless
materially assists the recovery of the superstitious native.
A visitor to Herbertshöhe may notice any day lads having
perpendicular furrows on their foreheads, and may very naturally
look upon such as aids to personal adornment, but the fact has been
elicited that this feature is intended to preserve the boy in his
future life from epileptic attacks or brain disorders. One woman,
wiser than the rest, operates upon the children of from three to six
years of age. An incision laying bare the frontal bone is made, which
is scraped until a furrow is formed in it, when the skin is carefully
drawn back again and a bandage of leaves, believed to possess healing
virtue, bound round the temples, and in ten days the wound is cured.
Broken limbs with the aid of splints are often mended. Blood-letting
in cases of various aches and pains is considered a splendid remedy!
For internal maladies and against epidemics magic is their unique
recourse. To drive away those unfriendly spirits who bring the
latter, the kanakas arm themselves with torches of dried sticks and
leaves with which, when lighted, they rush screaming their loudest
through the countryside.
CHAPTER XIII
THE SHOOTING-GROUND--HORNBILL DANCE--SECRET SOCIETIES--THE
DUK DUK--INGIET
In the course of these pages reference has often been made to the
native dances which accompany almost every event of importance in
the life of the South Sea islanders. During the last ten days of
my sojourn in New Britain, Queen Emma arranged a Sing-Song for
my benefit. It took place in the “shooting-ground,” where tennis
and archery are the attractions, and where residents generally
assemble about 4 p.m. for coffee and gossip. Picturesquely situated,
bounded on one side by high cliffs covered with vegetation, the
neatly-trimmed lawns and the summer-house compare very favourably
with pleasure-gardens of the kind in Europe. Here Queen Emma presided
over her little court, and very smart were some of the gay muslins
worn by the planters’ wives and one or two others on these occasions,
whilst the gentlemen present were clad in those white suits which
are so suitable for tropical wear. The programme commenced with the
dancing of New Ireland “boys,” who were to be followed by the kanakas
of the Gazelle. All taking part were _employés_ of the firm of
Forsyth, and since the number of labourers employed in their various
undertakings number about one thousand two hundred, there were plenty
at Ralum, the headquarters of the industry, to make a goodly show.
We had taken tea when the noise and dust made by the approaching
natives arrested my attention. Gaily bedecked and happy, they
advanced towards us, carrying all the musical instruments which
compose the native orchestra. They soon found a convenient spot
on the grass, and the crowd which followed on their heels grouped
themselves at the far end under the cliffs in a semicircular ring
behind the musicians, preparing to do their part in the screeching
which accompanies the dancers’ movements. Their countenances
expressed the utmost satisfaction with the arrangements and with
their own appearance, full dress being _de rigueur_. Oiled and
polished, their brown skins shone in the afternoon light to the
last degree of fitness. My hostess, surveying the human menagerie,
remarked that they must have raided her stores for the lubricating
medium so generously employed in embellishing their persons.
The general impression left upon the visitor was that scarlet was the
favourite colour. Magnificent rosettes of the scarlet double hibiscus
were fastened to the top of neatly-trimmed heads, flanked for the
most part with cassowaries’ feathers, or those from the domestic
fowl, and their lava-lavas were of the same brilliant hue.
Presently all eyes were turned towards the garden entrance, and
over the heads of the bystanders masked dancers became visible as
they approached us. It was the first time I had seen these curious
figures, though they are common enough in the Archipelago. These
New Ireland “boys,” who probably came from the north of that island,
where the culture is on a higher plane than in the Gazelle Peninsula,
and where they excel in pantomimic dances, had chosen for this
occasion to perform a totemic dance. It was pointed out that the
painted wooden masks with long beaks represented the hornbill, and
probably some of those present belonged to that locality where this
bird is the sacred emblem of their tribe, or clan. In the dance which
followed, it was decidedly interesting to perceive how carefully the
bird’s motions had been studied by these mimics. On a framework of
bamboo, extending from the waist to the knees, completely hidden from
view, many layers of dried fern leaves were fastened, and the effect
at a distance was that of a ballet-girl’s skirts; the shoulders
and head were completely enveloped in the heavy wooden mask and
ornamented with feathers and greenery. Flowers and grass were thrust
through the carved beaks, and white circles were painted round the
slits left for the wearer’s eyes to look through.
First of all one masked dancer came forward from a group who kept
themselves in the background, with the quick, short running movements
of the hornbill, peering this way and that. In a few moments the bird
was supposed to espy her mate, and shook with excitement at the glad
sight of him, remaining, however, stationary. We looked around us,
and on the opposite side of the garden there hopped out of the bushes
another dancer, who in the same way thrilled with delight at the
sight of his lady-love. With short, sharp movements of the head each
peered around, as if not only shy to approach, but fearing that other
hornbills would note their movements. Then came an advance from the
one nearest us, then a halt and another searching of the landscape,
another quick run and another stop to reconnoitre, till finally the
two dancers met, then taking each other’s hands they danced round and
round in quick, tiny steps, until it was time for another couple to
repeat the procedure, during which they stood with legs apart in a
semi-crouching attitude.
Compared with the vigorous, intelligent mimicry of the hornbill
dance, that of the Gazelle kanakas was not impressive. It consisted
of a series of bodily movements swaying backwards and forwards, to
the right and to the left, languid and graceful perhaps, but to an
onlooker there was nothing in it. As I watched the performance, I
involuntarily recalled the words I had repeatedly heard, to the
effect that these “natives were born tired.” After the “boys” had
danced some time they were motioned aside, and a party of girls,
belonging to the neighbourhood, had a turn. They wore wreaths of
flowers and carried garlands, waving them to and fro as they sang and
danced, much in the same way as the Gazelle “boys” already described.
Then labourers from the island of New Guinea, enveloped from head to
foot in a huge, outstanding cloak of banana leaves, fastened also on
to a bamboo framework, completely concealed by the thick foliage,
wearing tall, pointed cocoanut masks, painted and adorned with a high
erection, surmounted by pigeons’ and cocks’ feathers, entered upon
the scene. The back view of these dancers was somewhat grotesque,
reminding one forcibly of an archbishop’s cope and mitre. The dance
seemed to consist in hopping round one or two musicians. Some said
it was a devil-dance, which others disputed. Doubtless the Sing-Song
would have been prolonged till next day if it had been permitted, but
at dusk they were dismissed.
It was about this time that Mrs Parkinson arranged for me to see a
Duk Duk dance, which I was also eager to witness, especially as it
may only take place in the month of May. Perhaps it may be desirable,
before proceeding further, to give some idea of the secret societies
which are to be found throughout Melanesia. In New Ireland and in
New Hanover apparently they are connected with a species of ancestor
worship. In Buka, a similar institution is known as Kokorra.
In the Gazelle Peninsula, as far inland as Vunakokor and westwards
to Weberhafen, the Duk Duk and the Ingiet societies include many
members. The former, so far as this locality is concerned, is not
more than sixty years old; its introduction into the Gazelle Mr
Parkinson places about 1850, and the success it has since obtained
may be attributed to ingrained savage cupidity. As a fraudulent
system for acquiring tamboo, it ranks as _primus inter pares_. The
latter, a religious society of unknown origin, has grown with the
people’s growth, and has struck its roots deep down in the life of
the Gazelle kanaka. Little of its doings is so far known, but it may
be defined as the home of magic.
Formerly the Duk Duk was much more in evidence than it is to-day.
Its meetings and dances took place so continuously that in the early
days of the colony plantation labour was often in consequence quite
disorganised, and they were the occasions of so much extortion, with
other evils, that the administration found themselves compelled to
limit the festivities to the month of May. The missionaries also
bring their influence to bear upon the natives, for the suppression
of these secret societies. To them the attendant crimes are nothing
less than the work of the devil made manifest; the result being that
nowadays the Duk Duk is mild when compared with its former character.
After thirty years’ of experience in the Archipelago, Mr Parkinson
considers that none of these secret societies are based on any
deep underlying bond of union, or principle of action, their chief
object being to obtain material enjoyments, better food, greater
opportunities for idleness and love-making.
By encircling their movements with a halo of sanctity, and by
creating a great impression of their power and authority in the
minds of women and the uninitiated, as well as by imposing upon the
credulity of their superstitious brethren, tamboo may be easily
filched from them.
The novice who enters the Duk Duk pays a good sum for the privilege
of membership. He is taught ghastly stories of the spirit world, of
horrible apparitions. In artificially-produced noises he is told
to listen to the spirits talking, and above all he is enjoined to
divulge none of the wonderful things he hears.
The place of assembly where the masks are kept is called Tariau,
and it is held so sacred that death, in pre-German days, was meted
out to the woman who profanely stepped over it--even in these times
an intruder must pay a heavy fine. The persons of the dancers when
masked were also possessed with the same sanctity, and in the costume
of the Duk Duk could rob or murder, without anyone daring to stop
him. Women and children rushed into the bush at their approach, a
circumstance which points to cannibalistic practices being formerly
associated with these dances.
[Illustration: A DUK DUK DANCER]
The Tariau is generally so situated that strangers would never
discover it. Beside the bushes which generally encircle the spot,
on festal occasions native-woven mats screen it from view, and here
the costumes are arranged. Two kinds of masks are used. The Tabuan,
conically-shaped, crowned with a tuft of parrots’ feathers, has
large, white rings painted round the eyes. The Duk Duk mask is
different; it is long and pointed; sometimes it is as much as two
yards high; its ornamentation with feathers, or carvings decorated
with flowers, is according to the taste of its wearer. Strangely
enough, the Duk Duk societies occasionally include one or two old
women in their number. Those entitled to wear the Tabuan hold the
highest office in the institution, which they have either inherited
or bought, and it takes a rich man to discharge its duties in a
satisfactory manner. The idea connected with the Tabuan is that it
represents either a female deity or the feminine principle, but this
is not clear. The Duk Duk are her children.
It is to the Tabuan to whom the father or uncle applies for the
admission of a son or nephew to Duk Dukship, and a lengthy notice
beforehand is requisite to ensure the necessary payment being
forthcoming on the day appointed. The signal which commences the
proceedings is the loud cry of the Tabuan resounding through the
bush. The candidates are then brought to the Tariau, when they form a
circle round the presiding Tabuan who, in full dress, howls, dances
and uses the switch he holds over the shoulders of the neophytes,
whilst others standing outside assist in the castigation. This task
completed, the entrance fees are collected from the parents, the lads
being regaled meanwhile with roast fish and roast taro; after this,
the Tabuan, once more the centre of an admiring circle, takes off all
his attire and shows himself to the candidates, making them believe
that the spirits keep the leafy covering fastened to his body.
They are now instructed in the steps and evolutions of the Duk
Duk’s dance. Then a wide circle is formed and an official presents
everyone with three or four yards of shell-money. This renders the
birth of the Duk Duk complete. The following day each of these
newly-made members sets out to visit the neighbourhood and to collect
tamboo, repairing every night to the Tariau to sleep, and this daily
pilgrimage lasts for a month. At the end of the period a great feast
is prepared, after which the Duk Duks are all considered dead, and
depart to their respective homes.
On the shore at Herbertshöhe during May, one of the quaintest sights
is to be seen, when a number of natives push off to accompany a
Tabuan with the newly-born Duk Duks who, wearing their leafy dress
and heavy masks, dance from end to end of their frail canoes.
This was what the Danish lady and myself were invited to witness from
Mrs Parkinson’s residence. That lady being privileged to visit the
Tariau, had asked for the performance on our behalf. Torrential rain
prevented a large gathering, and since those present alleged that
their leafy costumes would be spoilt, we, too, thought it would be a
pity to wash the paint off the masks, and returned to Herbertshöhe as
quickly as an ancient pony and a tropical storm permitted.
Of far greater importance, on account of its deeply magical nature,
is the working of the society known as Ingiet, in the life of the
kanaka of the Gazelle Peninsula. Owing to the secrecy which the
native preserves with regard to its dealings, it is difficult for
the European to gain much exact knowledge with regard to the special
kinds of witchcraft practised.
The Government may legislate against the Duk Duk, and the
missionaries’ influence can go a long way to lessen its criminal
extravagance; but the widespread Ingiet societies’ magic is so firmly
rooted in the nature of these Melanesians, that it is a problem
whether time and Christianity will ever wholly eradicate it.
Mariwot is the name of the place where the members assemble, and it
is always surrounded with a thick hedge, so that women and children
shall not be able to watch the proceedings, which include many
objectionable practices. These spots are generally selected in the
depths of the forest, and figures supposed to represent sharks,
snakes, dolphins, etc., are carved out of the bark of the trees and
painted black, white and red. A small sum of shell-money admits to
membership, and quite young boys are admitted. The secrets of the
society may only be divulged by one of its chief officials, and all
undergo instruction from their appointed instructor. Their dances are
accompanied by simultaneous stamping of the feet, and such precision
must be attained, that it takes much practice to become expert. Many
of the accompanying songs are sung in falsetto.
The mysteries of Ingiet appertain solely to the region of witchcraft.
Spells and incantations, with the accompanying ceremonies of
gesticulation to procure material benefit, protection from bad
spirits, from sickness, are taught, also those which bring about the
death, the illness, or ruin of an enemy, and on these occasions, the
number of evil spirits invoked is legion, almost every object within
the native’s sphere of cognisance being possessed with devilships of
varying degrees of malevolence.
In the Duke of York Islands, in St George’s Channel, Ingiet is
universal, and possibly the natives are even more superstitious than
in the Gazelle, yet Australian Methodists, with their Samoan and Fiji
catechists and helpers, have worked there for thirty years!
There is nothing of a totemic character about this secret society,
although in the group just mentioned the inhabitants show more
traces of totemism than those of the peninsula, where only the most
elementary forms of it exist, firstly, in the two moieties which in
the north-east of the Gazelle are distinguished on the one part by
the use of _we_, and on the other by the use of _they_; secondly,
in their exogamous marriages; and thirdly, in the children always
belonging to the mother’s family.
CHAPTER XIV
I VISIT KABAKAUL--A LOVE STORY--AN EARTHQUAKE--GUESTS
FROM HERBERTSHÖHE--A NOCTURNAL DISTURBANCE--BISMARCK’S REMARK
TO BUSCH--CONCLUSION
The last few days I spent in New Britain were passed at the house of
the New Zealand lady already mentioned in the foregoing pages.
She came to the hotel early one morning in her pony-carriage, in
order that we might escape the blazing noonday sun.
The house was about ten miles away, and the plantation, named
Kabakaul, of which Herr M---- was manager, was co-terminous with the
boundary of the settled territory, due east of Herbertshöhe. Beyond,
lay native bush, and that of the densest; within, the secrets of
savagery.
Having passed the property of the Roman Catholic Mission, we entered
the plantations of M. Mouton, that gentleman being the only survivor
in Melanesia of the disastrous expedition of the arch-swindler, the
Marquis de Rey.
Before arriving at Kabakaul, at one part our way led down a very
steep hill and up a rough ascent, then on a narrow track with a steep
bank on either side. I remarked to my companion:
“What a bad road on a dark night,” but she declared that she would
trust her horse to take her safely home at any time of day or night.
In fact, two days before, she, with the baby and native nurse, had
started late in the afternoon from Herbertshöhe. They had been
delayed on the road, a storm of driving rain had added to their
discomfiture, the lamps had gone out, and there was nothing else to
do in the pitch blackness but trust themselves to the faithful steed,
which had, much to her husband’s relief, brought them safely back.
The manager’s bungalow, built on concrete blocks, stood on ground
sloping to the shore, about a quarter of a mile away. It was of the
usual type, a central room with a large bedroom on the right, two
smaller ones to the left; the whole surrounded with a wide verandah,
upon which meals were taken and business of all kinds transacted. The
kitchen, bathroom, and a whole row of outbuildings were connected by
a covered passage giving on to the verandah. The great feature in
building dwellings for Europeans is not only to construct them in a
manner best calculated to withstand the constant earthquake-shocks,
an art which the Germans seem to have mastered, but to ensure a cool
retreat on one side or another of the bungalow. On the evening of my
arrival my hostess took me to the reef to see the natives spearing
fish. On our way between the house and the shore, we passed large
sheds covered with sheets of corrugated iron. In these the three
hundred “boys” employed upon the plantation kept the treasures they
had brought from their various island homes, and had their sleeping
quarters. Close by, copra was being dried in the sun, whilst sacks
were being filled with the article ready for export. Some fine men,
nearly black, from the island of Buka attracted my attention.
“How well they look!” I exclaimed, comparing them mentally with some
of the diseased stragglers at Herbertshöhe.
“They are in splendid condition. We have very few who have to go to
the hospital,” replied she. At Ralum there are hospital-sheds where
natives are constantly treated for various diseases. “They ought to
be well, they get plenty of good food. Rice is imported, and we will
drive you round to see our provision grounds,” she added.
[Illustration: A FISHERMAN OF NEW BRITAIN]
It was a pretty sight on the shore; men and women were wading on
the reef, whilst others fished. I saw some of the weirs already
described; in fact, the place was strewn with fishing-tackle of
different kinds. Looking westward across the bay, I recognised
the all-powerful Mother, whose eruptive playfulness I had already
experienced several times. Before I left Kabakaul I was destined to
have a real fright, for the severest shaking from the volcano
ever felt during German occupation took place during my visit to
this lady. As we returned from our stroll I was amused to see a huge
Buka islander carrying Frau M----’s baby boy, whose skin was of the
fairest, as his hair was of the blondest Saxon type, so often seen
in North Germany. As a study in black and white it was an artistic
grouping, the native nurse-girl walking by his side.
“I will tell you about them,” my friend began. “That Buka ‘boy’ is
here for his second term of three years. When he was here before
he fell in love with the girl, who comes from New Ireland, and
they married; at the end of his term he went back to Buka, leaving
the girl here, but he was so sad without her, that he returned to
Herbertshöhe to indenture himself for another term of labour.”
“Why did he not take her back to his island?” I asked innocently.
“Because they would have killed her. These people are always
antagonistic to strangers,” was her explanation.
“They don’t seem to have much to say to each other,” I remarked,
as the interesting couple kept in view. It was pleasing to see how
gentle the big Buka was with the little child, and how supremely
happy the baby of fourteen months or so looked with his little white
arm round the strong black neck.
“They can only talk to each other in Pidgin-English,” she laughed
as she spoke. “He is quite a superior native, we have him as
house-servant. I have taught him to wait at table, and he does so
quite nicely when we have guests to dinner.”
The day following, after lunch, the “boys” were paid in kind. They
receive their money-wage monthly, but in the interim get loin-cloths
and tobacco. The former were torn off in equal lengths, according
to pattern, from a great roll of cotton stuff, and I watched this
procedure from the verandah whereon the manager stood whilst he
distributed their dues. The men responded to their names and came
shyly forward; their behaviour throughout the transaction which
occupied some time was perfect from my point of view. It was
explained that the labourers were never permitted to venture upon the
verandah of a planter’s house--that was _tabu_--“otherwise,” said
Frau M----, “we should have them in our houses!”
She had a revolver in each room, she said, and both she and her
husband slept with one close by them ready loaded, in case of
emergency. So far, in her nearly three years’ residence at Kabakaul,
she had never done more than fire it in the air, but in the frequent
and prolonged absences of her husband it was as well to let the
natives know that she had firearms (of which they stood in deadly
terror), in the house, and knew how to use them.
To live without weapons of defence in such proximity to savagery
would be madness, she continued. Herbertshöhe was ten miles distant,
and although they had telephone connection with the head office of
Forsyth’s, much might take place before help could be afforded them.
Occasionally she would order one of her house servants to bring her a
revolver, as she thought it was good to remind them of the presence
of this much-dreaded weapon, when the answer would invariably be “Me
no like!”
My host and hostess took me for long drives through the enormous
plantation into the bush, on a road, the preserving of which was
obligatory upon the _gunans_ living within a certain distance. It led
through the magnificent tropical forest; on either side dense bush,
shoulder-high, gave plenty of material to the imagination to conjure
up the scenes in the lives of its denizens. Here I noticed again on
two separate occasions the sign of the chiefs jurisdiction. On a plot
of soil, planted equidistant, were three crotons interlaced with
twigs, the centre one being considerably higher than those at either
side.
Frau M----, who can talk to the kanakas, having learnt their language
in the Australian mission where she worked before she was married
(that ceremony having been arranged by Queen Emma), told me one day
as we drove along, that she had, some time previously, been asked
by a chief to ride to a certain spot in the forest whither he
would guide her, to give her advice in a dispute which had arisen
concerning some property. The question at issue was, whether the
white man’s way of inheriting from father to son was to be adopted,
or whether the ancient way from uncle to nephew was to be retained.
She had ridden several miles from Kabakaul, and the chief had led
her through the narrow paths of approach to the spot agreed upon.
Here she had found an angry and numerous collection of natives; the
pandemonium was awful, and she felt on looking round at the awful
passions depicted on their hideous countenances, that hell could not
produce anything much worse. For the first time she felt somewhat
frightened at her rashness in coming off without saying where she was
going.
I was interested to know how she got out of the situation, and
remarked that, “It was one thing to go to the infernal regions, but
quite another to stop there.”
The lady said she had urged them to explain the case, which they
all did together, whilst she racked her brains to make the safest
and the most politic reply. So when silence had been comparatively
established, she explained the situation in this fashion. The white
man’s ways, his spirits and his magic, were not like those of the
kanakas, and that in the country over the sea, from whence he came,
it worked better for the son to inherit from the father instead of
from the uncle, but in this land the kanaka knew what suited his
particular way of life best, and therefore it was not for her but
for all of them to say which mode of heirship in this particular
case would be expedient. This had seemed a satisfactory explanation
to the assembly. Frau M---- had waved her hand and smilingly ridden
away, hearing subsequently that after lengthy discussion the majority
present had decided that the European code was preferable in this
instance, to their own.
That afternoon three guests were expected to tea and to stay to
dinner. They would drive out from Herbertshöhe, and preparations
were being made by the servants for the evening meal to take place
on the verandah overlooking the sea. We had rested after lunch, but
about four o’clock were bestirring ourselves. My hostess had just
gone to inspect and supervise culinary operations. Noticing how
windy it had suddenly become, Herr M---- and I were standing talking
together on the verandah overlooking the plantation, when suddenly
the woodwork cracked, the verandah swayed, and a dull roar made us
start. The noise was terrifying, but when a greater shock followed
in the course of a few seconds, my host screaming out, “Dieses ist
ernst, Kommen Sie schnell,” took to his heels and ran down the
covered passage past the outbuildings. I followed. The oscillations,
however, did not subside for some little time. Frau M---- came
running out, white and trembling, demanding her child, who had been
near the house playing with his nurse. The nurse-girl informed us
that he had laughed, and was delighted at seeing the cocoanut-palms
waving this way and that.
“I have never experienced anything like it all the time I have been
here,” said the manager, as we three stood together on the grass. The
ground was still trembling, and as it had a distinctly nauseating
effect upon me, I sat down.
When we returned to the house after a while, the lamps suspended from
the ceiling were still swinging, the floor in my bedroom was covered
with water spilt out of the handbasin, a few cracks on the walls were
visible, but no real damage was sustained. Very soon a telephone
message was received from Herbertshöhe, wanting to know if all were
safe. Everybody had been very much alarmed, and expected another
severe shock to follow. Shortly after this our visitors arrived,
somewhat later than they were expected. They were sure the earthquake
would prove to be the severest experience during German occupation.
The feeling of powerlessness in the face of nature’s outbreaks, and
of insecurity, not knowing what may follow at any instant, is not
exactly a happy mental condition.
Evidently the Mother was responsible for the quakes; natives who,
for once, had actually been frightened at the unusual severity of the
shocks, declared that they had seen the water abnormally agitated
between the shore and the volcano. Had the house been built of bricks
and mortar, instead of timber fitted into grooves after a special
pattern in this colony, it would have collapsed. With the excitement
and anticipation of more to follow, there was no lack of material
for conversation at the little dinner which followed the occurrence.
Allusion in these pages has already been made to the proverbial
thirstiness of the German official. Before the guests left I had my
eyes opened still wider as to the quantity of fluid which gentlemen
in the German colonies are in the habit of imbibing, yet retaining
normal conditions!
As the moon had not risen and the night was pitch black, the manager
volunteered to see his guest past one or two specially dangerous
parts of the road. Frau M---- was tired, and suggested retiring to
rest, but warned me to be in readiness for another shock, since
severe ones rarely came singly. My mental equanimity was defective
that night as, with door and window wide open because of the heat, my
money and my dressing-gown within reach on account of the expected
recurrence of the earthquake, I laid myself down to rest. It was not
calculated to improve my disturbed feelings when I thought of those
three hundred “boys” whose quarters were so close to the bungalow,
many of them came from, and would return to cannibalistic conditions,
nor when I dwelt upon the proximity of that dense native bush, which
knew so well how to conceal its ghastly secrets from the white man.
I hoped the manager would be quick and return! Two white women and
one helpless babe left alone at night in the midst of these savages
was not exactly a situation I had ever reckoned to find myself in! I
was glad I had not allowed myself to let Frau M---- see that I felt
nervous. After all, was it likely that anything untoward would happen
just this particular night. She had lived in these wilds without
fright, or mishap, over two years. I had always reckoned on the law
of chances! Why not now? Still, she had a revolver, and I had none.
What a fool I was not to have provided myself with one before I set
foot on this God-forsaken island. Consumed with contempt at my own
stupidity, I forgot to listen for the return of Herr M---- and fell
asleep.
In these out-of-the-way places the heaviest sleepers soon lose that
characteristic, and metaphorically speaking, the whole time I stayed
in New Britain I slept with one eye open and both ears on the alert.
I found that others with far more experience of the Archipelago did
the same thing. My slumbers were not of long duration before I awoke
suddenly. Hurried steps were coming along the verandah. I sprang
to my feet. The moon had risen. In the dim light I saw my host and
hostess rush past the open doorway in night attire, both holding
revolvers in their extended right hands.
“The Bukas are on the verandah,” Frau M---- shouted, disappearing
round the corner of the verandah, her long hair streaming behind her.
Grabbing an umbrella with a knobby handle I sallied forth in their
wake and made the circuit of the bungalow. The nurse who slept at
the entrance of her mistress’s room had given the alarm, explained
my friend as we met. She had seen two “boys” climbing on to the
verandah by the aid afforded by two zinc tanks situated in the corner
nearly opposite their bedroom. Shortly the girl’s husband appeared
and explained that the nocturnal disturbance had been occasioned by a
Buka who, his companions declared, always became crazed in moonlight.
He was caught and they were waiting to know what was to be done with
him.
Whether this version was really believed by the planter is not for me
to say, but it was accepted, otherwise there would be the necessity
of sending him into Herbertshöhe for an official inquiry, which meant
expense and delay to his firm. The disturber of our night’s rest was
produced without delay, a few impressive threats and the sight of
firearms seemed not without effect, and after looking on whilst the
man at this early hour was well secured to a post until he could be
further admonished in daylight, we retired to our respective quarters
to snatch sleep if possible.
Shortly after my exciting experience at Kabakaul I was making a
round of farewell visits to those whose kindness and hospitality had
rendered my stay in this remote colony one which I shall always look
back upon as teeming with interest and pleasure.
Since returning to this country the question has frequently been
asked, what I thought of the German colonies? I have replied that
a month’s residence in the youngest of them did not enable me to
form anything approaching an equitable, or adequate opinion. At the
same time, it is not beside the point to remind my readers that
Bismarck--Chauvinist that he was--said to Busch concerning colonial
enterprise: “I will have no colonies: their only use would be to
provide posts for certain people.”
Could that veteran statesman pierce the intervening space and
perceive how the Germans in these days have transformed themselves
into a commercial people, with limitless ambition for naval supremacy
and colonial possessions, he might have further advice of similarly
penetrating character to bestow upon the Kaiser’s subjects.
To return to the remote but interesting Protectorate of German New
Guinea, let it be remembered that the colony is in its infancy. Who
knows? It may awake one morning and find itself famous!
INDEX
A
Admiraltys, 36, 38, 39, 66, 70
„ boys, 128
Africa, South, 48
„ East, 150
Amboyna, 65
America, South, 45
Anchorites, 75
Australia, 7, 9, 138
B
Bacchanalian, 43
Baining, 51, 52, 140, 145, 175
Balboa, 62
Bantam, 65
Batavia, 65
Bavarian, 45
Benningsen, Von, 73, 127
Berlin, 21
Bismarck Archipelago, 11, 21, 23, 66
Blanche, 25, 52, 71
Bougainville, 70, 120, 176
Brown, 72, 163
Brisbane, 10
Britain, 2
Buka, 21, 69, 120, 176
Busch, 233
C
Caens, 66
Callao, 63
Carteret, 67, 69, 176
„ Islands, 121
_Challenger_, 71
_Chandernagore_, 72
Choiseul, 120
Cobdenism, 4
Collars, 46, 107
Cook, 14
Coppée, 29, 37, 83, 172
Credner, 25
Curzon, 112
D
Dane, 35
Dampier, 66, 67
„ Straits, 146
Diemen, Van, 66
Docman, 46, 47, 107
Dolphin, 68
Douro, 70–79
Dubois, 146
Duk Duk, 207
Dutch East India Company, 65
E
Endeavour, 144
Exchequer, 71, 76
F
Fead, 116, 122, 131
Fiji, 216
Fisher, 60, 167
Forsyth, 108, 130, 131, 162
French, 92
Fritsch, 142
G
Gama, Vasco de, 62
Gardner, 67, 131, 167, 175
Gazelle Peninsula, 24, 54, 152
„ Cape, 28
Germania, 43
Gerrit Denys, 66
Gisborne, 17
Green Islands, 65
H
Hahl, 73, 124, 133
Hardy, Sir C., 58, 65
Hau-Hauism, 16
Heiligen Herzen, 84
Herbertshöhe, 6, 29, 42, 57, 156
Hermits, 71, 76
Hernsheim, 130, 131, 168
Hohenzollern, 3
Holland, 65
Hope, Cape of Good, 62
Howe, Lord, Islands, 63
Hunter, 176
I
Ingiet, 208
Isabel, 120
J
Jaluit, 8, 73
Jakupia, 150
Jamaica, 162
Japan, 139
Java, 92
K
Kabakaul, 217
Kabien, 131
Kaboteron, 130, 131
Kaiser Wilhelm’s land, 21, 49, 72
Kapsu, 130, 168
Keppel, 71
Kilkil, 151
Kokorra, 207
Kot, 152
Kovangal, 151
L
_Langeoof_, 32
Le Maire, 65
Löndip, 174
Louisiades, 70
Lowell, 86
Lüschan, Von, 21, 48, 178
M
Magellan, 62, 68
Malay, 22, 176
Malira, 155
Manilla, 6, 64
Maori, 13, 19
Mariwot, 214
Massava, 141, 174, 175
Massikunabuka, 141, 175
Matankor, 39, 40
Matty, 70, 79
Matupi, 33, 71, 172, 175
Meander, 71
Melanesian, 13, 22, 50
Mendana, 63
Micronesian, 8, 73
Mioko, 71
Mlol, 151
Moánus, 39, 40
Moluccas, 62
Mortlocks, 116, 122
Mother, 67
Mouton, 218
Möwe, 90
Möwehafen, 100
N
Nakanai, 92
Napier, 17
Nares, 71
New Britain, 5, 10, 174
New Guinea, 6, 21, 63
„ (boys), 206
New Hanover, 66, 70, 131, 168
New Ireland, 10, 50, 62, 68, 70, 131, 166
„ (boys), 204
New Lauenburg, 25, 71
New Mecklenberg, 70
New Zealand, 9, 13
Nissan, 65
Nodup, 163
Nusa, 167
O
Ophir, 63
P
Pacific, 5, 8, 73
Papuan, 22, 38
Parkinson, 38, 52, 89, 91, 147
Pepe, 155
Pernambuco, 45
Pfeil, 167
Philippines, 62
Polynesians, 14
Purdy, 71
Q
Queen Emma, 61, 108, 201
Queensland, 119
R
Raluana, 163
Ralum, 163, 202
Rascher, 82
Ray, 23
Rey’s expedition, 72
Roggeveen, 68
Rook Island, 68
S
St Gabriel, 131
St George’s Channel, 10, 70
„ Cape, 67
St Maria, Cape, 62, 65, 169
St Matthias, 67, 79
Sandwich, 70, 176
Santos, 45
Schleinitz, 71
Schnee, 130, 144
Schouten, 38, 65
_Seestern_, 127
Selwyn, 16
Semitic, 92
Shortland, 120, 129
Siara, 169
Simpsonhafen, 71
Solomons, 21, 38, 63
Spain, 64
Spaniards, 62, 63
Squally Islands, 67
Stettiner Bay, 93
Storm Island, 176
Sulkas, 53, 90, 150, 175
Sumatra, 35, 36, 61
T
Tabuan, 211
Tariau, 210
Tasman, 62, 66
Tasman Island, 121
Taulils, 90, 175
Te Reinga, 15
Teuton, 3, 44, 135
Thomá, 171, 176
Thurnwald, 48, 136
Timor, 66
Tingenatabaran, 149
Tohunga, 17
Tombara, 51
Torres, 63
Tregear, 15
Trinil, 146
U
Urar, 141, 175
Usiai, 39, 40
V
Varczin, 24, 175
Vlatom, 196
Vunakokor, 24, 55
Vunapope, 29, 61
W
Waldemar, 5
Wallis, 68
Weberhafen, 207
Wesley, J., 163
Wesleyan Mission, 71
Westminster, 2
Winchelsea, 69
Y
York, Duke of, Islands, 25, 53, 70, 167, 215
EDINBURGH
COLSTON AND CO. LIMITED
PRINTERS
A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS
PUBLISHED BY METHUEN
AND COMPANY: LONDON
36 ESSEX STREET
W.C.
CONTENTS
PAGE
General Literature, 2–22
Ancient Cities, 22
Antiquary’s Books, 22
Arden Shakespeare, 23
Beginner’s Books, 23
Business Books, 23
Byzantine Texts, 24
Churchman’s Bible, 24
Churchman’s Library, 24
Classical Translations, 24
Classics of Art, 24
Commercial Series, 25
Connoisseur’s Library, 25
Illustrated Pocket Library of Plain
and Coloured Books, 25
Junior Examination Series, 26
Junior School-Books, 27
Leaders of Religion, 27
Library of Devotion, 27
Little Books on Art, 28
Little Galleries, 28
Little Guides, 28
Little Library, 29
Little Quarto Shakespeare, 30
Miniature Library, 30
Oxford Biographies, 30
School Examination Series, 31
School Histories, 31
Simplified French Texts, 31
Standard Library, 31
Textbooks of Science, 32
Textbooks of Technology, 32
Handbooks of Theology, 32
Westminster Commentaries, 32
Fiction, 33–39
Books for Boys and Girls, 39
Novels of Alexandre Dumas, 39
Methuen’s Sixpenny Books, 39
OCTOBER 1908
A CATALOGUE OF
MESSRS. METHUEN’S
PUBLICATIONS
In this Catalogue the order is according to authors. An
asterisk denotes that the book is in the press.
Colonial Editions are published of all Messrs. METHUEN’S
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All books marked net are not subject to discount, and cannot
be bought at less than the published price. Books not marked
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and specimen copies of any books will be sent on receipt of
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=Abbott (J. H. M.).= AN OUTLANDER IN ENGLAND: _Second Edition.
Cr. 8vo. 6s._
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=Abraham (George D.).= THE COMPLETE MOUNTAINEER. With 75
Illustrations. _Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 15s. net._
A Colonial Edition is also published.
=Acatos (M. J.).= See Junior School Books.
=Adams (Frank).= JACK SPRAT. With 24 Coloured Pictures. _Super
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=Adeney (W. F.)=, M.A. See Bennett (W. H.)
=Ady (Cecilia M.).= A HISTORY OF MILAN UNDER THE SFORZA. With 20
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=Æschylus.= See Classical Translations.
=Æsop.= See I.P.L.
=Ainsworth (W. Harrison).= See I.P.L.
=Aldis (Janet).= THE QUEEN OF LETTER WRITERS, MARQUISE DE
SÉVIGNÉ, DAME DE BOURBILLY, 1626–96. With 18 Illustrations.
_Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net._
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=Alexander (William)=, D.D., Archbishop of Armagh. THOUGHTS AND
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=Alken (Henry).= See I.P.L.
=Allen (Charles C.).= See Textbooks of Technology.
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=Allen (J. Romilly)=, F.S.A. See Antiquary’s Books.
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=Atkinson (C. M.).= JEREMY BENTHAM. _Demy 8vo. 5s. net._
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=Auden (T.)=, M.A., F.S.A. See Ancient Cities.
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=Baden-Powell (R. S. S.). = THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896. With
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=Banks (Elizabeth L.).= THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A ‘NEWSPAPER GIRL.’
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A YEAR IN RUSSIA. _Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
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=Barker (Aldred F.).= See Textbooks of Technology.
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INDIA IMPRESSIONS. With 84 Illustrations from Sketches by the
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=Crashaw (Richard).= See Little Library.
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MY MEMOIRS. Translated by E. M. WALLER. With an Introduction
by ANDREW LANG. With Frontispieces in Photogravure. In six
Volumes. _Cr. 8vo. 6s. each volume._
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=Duncan (David)=, D.Sc., LL.D. THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF HERBERT
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=Dunn (J. T.)=, D.Sc., =and Mundella (V. A.).= GENERAL ELEMENTARY
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=Durham (The Earl of).= A REPORT ON CANADA. With an Introductory
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WILD LIFE IN EAST ANGLIA. With 16 Illustrations in colour by
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=Earl (John)=, Bishop of Salisbury. MICRO-COSMOGRAPHIE, OR A
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=Edmonds (Major J. E.)=, R.E.; D.A.Q.-M.G. See Wood (W. Birkbeck).
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=Edwards (W. Douglas).= See Commercial Series.
=Edwardes (Tickner).= THE LORE OF THE HONEY BEE. With many
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=Ellaby (C. G.).= See Little Guides.
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=Epictetus.= See Aurelius (Marcus).
=Erasmus.= A Book called in Latin ENCHIRIDION MILITIS CHRISTIANI,
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=Fea (Allan).= SOME BEAUTIES OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. With 82
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SECRET CHAMBERS AND HIDING PLACES. With 80 Illustrations. _New
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=Firth (C. H.)=, M.A., Regius Professor of Modern History at
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=Fitzpatrick (S. A. O.).= See Ancient Cities.
=Flecker (W. H.)=, M.A., D.C.L., Headmaster of the Dean Close
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ENGLISH SOCIAL REFORMERS. _Second Edition. Cr. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
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=Gibbon (Edward).= MEMOIRS OF MY LIFE AND WRITINGS. Edited by G.
BIRKBECK HILL, LL.D. _Cr. 8vo. 6s._
THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE. Edited, with Notes,
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Professor of Greek at Cambridge. _In Seven Volumes. Demy 8vo.
Gilt top. 8s. 6d. each. Also, Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
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=Gibbs (Philip).= THE ROMANCE OF GEORGE VILLIERS: FIRST DUKE OF
BUCKINGHAM, AND SOME MEN AND WOMEN OF THE STUART COURT. With 20
Illustrations. _Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 15s. net._
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=Gibson (E. C. S.)=, D.D., Lord Bishop of Gloucester. See
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=Gilbert (A. R.).= See Little Books on Art.
=Gloag (M. R.)= and =Wyatt (Kate M.).= A BOOK OF ENGLISH GARDENS.
With 24 Illustrations in Colour. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
=Godfrey (Elizabeth).= A BOOK OF REMEMBRANCE. Being Lyrical
Selections for every day in the Year. Arranged by. _Fcap. 8vo.
2s. 6d. net._
ENGLISH CHILDREN IN THE OLDEN TIME. With 32 Illustrations.
_Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
=Godley (A. D.)=, M.A., Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. LYRA
FRIVOLA. _Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
VERSES TO ORDER. _Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
SECOND STRINGS. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
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net._
See Also I.P.L. and Standard Library.
=Gomme (G. L.).= See Antiquary’s Books.
=Goodrich-Freer (A.).= IN A SYRIAN SADDLE. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.
net._
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=Gorst (Rt. Hon. Sir John).= THE CHILDREN OF THE NATION. _Second
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=Goudge (H. L.)=, M.A., Principal of Wells Theological College.
See Westminster Commentaries.
=Graham (P. Anderson).= THE RURAL EXODUS. The Problem of the
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THE SOUL OF A CHRISTIAN. _Cr. 8vo. 6s._
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=Gray (P. L.)=, B.Sc. THE PRINCIPLES OF MAGNETISM AND
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=Green (G. Buckland)=, M.A., late Fellow of St. John’s College,
Oxon. NOTES ON GREEK AND LATIN SYNTAX. _Second Ed. revised.
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=Greenidge (A. H. J.)=, M.A., D.Litt. A HISTORY OF ROME: From the
Tribunate of Tiberius Gracchus to the end of the Jugurthine
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=Greenwell (Dora).= See Miniature Library.
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=Hall (R. N.) and Neal (W. G.).= THE ANCIENT RUINS OF RHODESIA.
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_Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net._
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=Hannay (D.).= A SHORT HISTORY OF THE ROYAL NAVY, 1200–1688.
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=Hannay (James O.)=, M.A. THE SPIRIT AND ORIGIN OF CHRISTIAN
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=Hardie (Martin).= See Connoisseur’s Library.
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=Heath (Dudley).= See Connoisseur’s Library.
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=Henderson (B. W.)=, Fellow of Exeter College, Oxford. THE LIFE
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AT INTERVALS. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
=Henderson (M. Sturge).= GEORGE MEREDITH: NOVELIST, POET,
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=Henderson (T. F.).= See Little Library and Oxford Biographies.
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Verse. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
=Hey (H.)=, Inspector, Surrey Education Committee, and =Rose (G.
H.)=, City and Guilds Woodwork Teacher. THE MANUAL TRAINING
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=Heywood (W.).= PALIO AND PONTE. A Book of Tuscan Games.
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=Hill (Clare).= See Textbooks of Technology.
=Hill (Henry)=, B.A., Headmaster of the Boy’s High School,
Worcester, Cape Colony. A SOUTH AFRICAN ARITHMETIC. _Cr. 8vo.
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=Hind (C. Lewis).= DAYS IN CORNWALL. With 16 Illustrations in
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=Hobhouse (L. T.)=, late Fellow of C.C.C., Oxford. THE THEORY OF
KNOWLEDGE. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
=Hobson (J. A.)=, M.A. INTERNATIONAL TRADE: A Study of Economic
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PROBLEMS OF POVERTY. An Inquiry into the Industrial Condition of
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THE PROBLEM OF THE UNEMPLOYED. _Third Edition. Cr. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
=Hodgetts (E. A. Brayley).= THE COURT OF RUSSIA IN THE NINETEENTH
CENTURY. With 20 Illustrations. _Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 24s.
net._
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=Hodgkin (T.)=, D.C.L. See Leaders of Religion.
=Hodgson (Mrs. W.).= HOW TO IDENTIFY OLD CHINESE PORCELAIN. With
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=Hogg (Thomas Jefferson).= SHELLEY AT OXFORD. With an
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=Holden-Stone (G. de).= See Books on Business.
=Holdich (Sir T. H.)=, K.C.I.E. THE INDIAN BORDERLAND: being a
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=Holdsworth (W. S.)=, M.A. A HISTORY OF ENGLISH LAW. _In Two
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=Holland (H. Scott)=, Canon of St. Paul’s. See Newman (J. H.).
=Hollway-Calthrop (H. C.)=, late of Balliol College, Oxford;
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=Horton (R. F.)=, D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
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=Hutton (A. W.)=, M.A. See Leaders of Religion and Library of
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ENGLISH LOVE POEMS. Edited with an Introduction. _Fcap. 8vo.
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=Hutton (R. H.).= See Leaders of Religion.
=Hutton (W. H.)=, M.A. THE LIFE OF SIR THOMAS MORE. With
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=Hyett (F. A.).= FLORENCE: HER HISTORY AND ART TO THE FALL OF THE
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_Third Edition. Cr. 8vo. 3s. 6d._
=Inge (W. R.)=, M.A., Fellow and Tutor of Hertford College,
Oxford. CHRISTIAN MYSTICISM. (The Bampton Lectures of 1899.)
_Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net._
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=Ingham (B. P.).= See Simplified French Texts.
=Innes (A. D.)=, M.A. A HISTORY OF THE BRITISH IN INDIA. With
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ENGLAND UNDER THE TUDORS. With Maps. _Second Edition. Demy
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=Jackson (C. E.)=, B.A., Senior Physics Master, Bradford Grammar
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=Jackson (S.)=, M.A. See Commercial Series.
=Jackson (F. Hamilton).= See Little Guides.
=Jacob (F.)=, M.A. See Junior Examination Series.
=James (W. H. N.).= See Brooks (E. E.).
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=Jeffreys (D. Gwyn).= DOLLY’S THEATRICALS. _Super Royal 16mo. 2s.
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GOVERNMENT. _Second Ed._ Revised by R. C. K. ENSOR, M.A. _Cr.
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net._
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Durham. RELIGION IN EVOLUTION. _Cr. 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
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=Johnson (Mrs. Barham).= WILLIAM BODHAM DONNE AND HIS FRIENDS.
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=Jones (H.).= See Commercial Series.
=Jones (H. F.).= See Textbooks of Science.
=Jones (L. A. Atherley)=, K.C., M.P., and =Bellot (Hugh H. L.)=,
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_Thirteenth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
=Jonson (Ben).= See Standard Library.
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=Juvenal.= See Classical Translations.
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REALMS OF GOLD. Selections from the Works of. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s.
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See Also Little Library and Standard Library.
=Keble (John).= THE CHRISTIAN YEAR. With an Introduction and
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=Kelynack (T. N.)=, M.D., M.R.C.P. THE DRINK PROBLEM IN ITS
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=Kempis (Thomas à).= THE IMITATION OF CHRIST. With an
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CASTING OF NETS.
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CHEAP JACK ZITA.
KITTY ALONE.
URITH.
THE BROOM SQUIRE.
IN THE ROAR OF THE SEA.
NOÉMI.
A BOOK OF FAIRY TALES. Illustrated.
LITTLE TU’PENNY.
WINEFRED.
THE FROBISHERS.
THE QUEEN OF LOVE.
=Barr (Robert).= JENNIE BAXTER.
IN THE MIDST OF ALARMS.
THE COUNTESS TEKLA.
THE MUTABLE MANY.
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THE VINTAGE.
=Brontë (Charlotte).= SHIRLEY.
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=Caffyn (Mrs.).= ANNE MAULEVERER.
=Capes (Bernard).= THE LAKE OF WINE.
=Clifford (Mrs. W. K.).= A FLASH OF SUMMER.
MRS. KEITH’S CRIME.
=Corbett (Julian).= A BUSINESS IN GREAT WATERS.
=Croker (Mrs. B. M.).= ANGEL.
A STATE SECRET.
PEGGY OF THE BARTONS.
JOHANNA.
=Dante (Alighieri).= THE DIVINE COMEDY (Cary).
=Doyle (A. Conan).= ROUND THE RED LAMP.
=Duncan (Sara Jeannette).= A VOYAGE OF CONSOLATION.
THOSE DELIGHTFUL AMERICANS.
=Eliot (George).= THE MILL ON THE FLOSS.
=Findlater (Jane H.).= THE GREEN GRAVES OF BALGOWRIE.
=Gallon (Tom).= RICKERBY’S FOLLY.
=Gaskell (Mrs.).= CRANFORD.
MARY BARTON.
NORTH AND SOUTH.
=Gerard (Dorothea).= HOLY MATRIMONY.
THE CONQUEST OF LONDON.
MADE OF MONEY.
=Gissing (G).= THE TOWN TRAVELLER.
THE CROWN OF LIFE.
=Glanville (Ernest).= THE INCA’S TREASURE.
THE KLOOF BRIDE.
=Gleig (Charles).= HUNTER’S CRUISE.
=Grimm (The Brothers).= GRIMM’S FAIRY TALES.
=Hope (Anthony).= A MAN OF MARK.
A CHANGE OF AIR.
THE CHRONICLES OF COUNT ANTONIO.
PHROSO.
THE DOLLY DIALOGUES.
=Hornung (E. W.).= DEAD MEN TELL NO TALES.
=Ingraham (J. H.).= THE THRONE OF DAVID.
=Le Queux (W.).= THE HUNCHBACK OF WESTMINSTER.
=Levett-Yeats (S. K.).= THE TRAITOR’S WAY.
=Linton (E. Lynn).= THE TRUE HISTORY OF JOSHUA DAVIDSON.
=Lyall (Edna).= DERRICK VAUGHAN.
=Malet (Lucas).= THE CARISSIMA.
A COUNSEL OF PERFECTION.
=Mann (Mrs.).= MRS. PETER HOWARD.
A LOST ESTATE.
THE CEDAR STAR.
ONE ANOTHER’S BURDENS.
=Marchmont (A. W.).= MISER HOADLEY’S SECRET.
A MOMENT’S ERROR.
=Marryat (Captain).= PETER SIMPLE.
JACOB FAITHFUL.
=Marsh (Richard).= A METAMORPHOSIS.
THE TWICKENHAM PEERAGE.
THE GODDESS.
THE JOSS.
=Mason (A. E. W.).= CLEMENTINA.
=Mathers (Helen).= HONEY.
GRIFF OF GRIFFITHSCOURT.
SAM’S SWEETHEART.
=Meade (Mrs. L. T.).= DRIFT.
=Mitford (Bertram).= THE SIGN OF THE SPIDER.
=Montresor (F. F.).= THE ALIEN.
=Morrison (Arthur).= THE HOLE IN THE WALL.
=Nesbit (E.).= THE RED HOUSE.
=Norris (W. E.).= HIS GRACE.
GILES INGILBY.
THE CREDIT OF THE COUNTY.
LORD LEONARD THE LUCKLESS.
MATTHEW AUSTIN.
CLARISSA FURIOSA.
=Oliphant (Mrs.).= THE LADY’S WALK.
SIR ROBERT’S FORTUNE.
THE PRODIGALS.
THE TWO MARYS.
=Oppenheim (E. P.).= MASTER OF MEN.
=Parker (Gilbert).= THE POMP OF THE LAVILETTES.
WHEN VALMOND CAME TO PONTIAC.
THE TRAIL OF THE SWORD.
=Pemberton (Max).= THE FOOTSTEPS OF A THRONE.
I CROWN THEE KING.
=Phillpotts (Eden).= THE HUMAN BOY.
CHILDREN OF THE MIST.
THE POACHER’S WIFE.
THE RIVER.
=“Q” (A. T. Quiller Couch).= THE WHITE WOLF.
=Ridge (W. Pett).= A SON OF THE STATE.
LOST PROPERTY.
GEORGE and THE GENERAL.
=Russell (W. Clark).= ABANDONED.
A MARRIAGE AT SEA.
MY DANISH SWEETHEART.
HIS ISLAND PRINCESS.
=Sergeant (Adeline).= THE MASTER OF BEECHWOOD.
BARBARA’S MONEY.
THE YELLOW DIAMOND.
THE LOVE THAT OVERCAME.
=Surtees (R. S.).= HANDLEY CROSS.
MR. SPONGE’S SPORTING TOUR.
ASK MAMMA.
=Walford (Mrs. L. B.).= MR. SMITH.
COUSINS.
THE BABY’S GRANDMOTHER.
=Wallace (General Lew).= BEN-HUR.
THE FAIR GOD.
=Watson (H. B. Marriott).= THE ADVENTURERS.
=Weekes (A. B.).= PRISONERS OF WAR.
=Wells (H. G.).= THE SEA LADY.
=White (Percy).= A PASSIONATE PILGRIM.
Transcriber’s Note:
Words and phrases in italics are surrounded by underscores, _like
this_. Those in bold are surrounded by equal signs, =like this=.
An unprinted page number was added to the Table of Contents. One
omitted photograph was added to the List of Illustrations. One upside
down letter was righted. Four misspelled words were corrected.
Missing or misplaced punctuation in the catalogue was added or
adjusted.