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Title: Dogs as home companions
A book for all dog lovers
Author: Albert Frederick Hochwalt
Release date: November 13, 2023 [eBook #72115]
Language: English
Original publication: Cincinnati: Sportsman's Digest, 1922
Credits: Sonya Schermann, Craig Kirkwood, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOGS AS HOME COMPANIONS ***
Transcriber’s Notes:
Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
Additional Transcriber’s Notes are at the end.
* * * * *
DOGS AS HOME COMPANIONS
* * * * *
Dogs _as_ Home Companions
_A BOOK FOR ALL
DOG LOVERS_
BY
A. F. HOCHWALT
AUTHOR OF
“Dogcraft,” “The Pointer and the Setter in America,”
“The Modern Pointer,” “The Modern Setter,” “The
Working Dog and His Education,” “Practical
Dog Keeping for the Amateur,” “The Airedale
for Work and Show,” “Arrows of
Ambition,” etc.
1922
SPORTSMAN’S DIGEST
Cincinnati, Ohio
* * * * *
Copyright, 1922
SPORTSMAN’S DIGEST
All Rights Reserved
* * * * *
DEDICATION.
To all the many men, women and children scattered about over all the
world, who love dogs and keep one or more as their home companions.
“_And in that town a dog was found,
As many dogs there be,
Both mongrel, puppy, whelp and hound
And curs of low degree._”--_Goldsmith._
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Suitable Breeds. Group One--Toys 1
CHAPTER II.
Suitable Breeds. Group Two--Terriers 16
CHAPTER III.
Suitable Breeds. Group Three--Medium-Sized Dogs 45
CHAPTER IV.
Housing Problems 67
CHAPTER V.
Becoming Acquainted--Early Lessons 76
CHAPTER VI.
The Food Question--When to Feed--Frequency of Feeding--Water 87
CHAPTER VII.
Exercise--Grooming--Washing 94
CHAPTER VIII.
If Sickness Comes 105
* * * * *
Dogs as Home Companions
BY A. F. HOCHWALT.
INTRODUCTION.
Most people are interested in dumb animals, but every normal person
loves a dog; it is the heritage of the ages. The man or the woman who
hates a good dog is abnormal. There is something fundamentally wrong in
their psychical makeup. How often we hear of people of this class who
say they can see nothing friendly or desirable in any dog; that they
are all alike; vicious and treacherous. The story of the man who writes
articles in newspapers and pamphlets advocating the destruction of all
dogs because they are a menace to mankind is a common one in every part
of the world. A story is told of one of this class--a New England money
lender--who took great pains to besmirch the character of the dog in
public and private. His contention was that any dog would bite, and
as proof, circulated a story that a little nondescript dog actually
followed him aboard a street car and bit a piece out of his leg!
Perhaps this is the truth and on the other hand, it may be manufactured
out of the whole cloth, but it is to be hoped that it is so, for it
only proves what keen perceptions dogs have. Every dog recognizes his
friends among humankind with one glance at a person’s face. The dog
is a better student of human nature than any other animal--biped or
otherwise--and the dog that shuns one person and loves another knows
from instinct and perception how to distribute his likes and dislikes.
Therefore, those who see nothing but viciousness in the canine race
have no one but themselves to blame; the dog knows his enemies at
sight. To that class who are dog haters, this book is not addressed and
they are advised to lay it aside before going farther.
There are many, however, who love dogs, who understand them and
appreciate their many good qualities, for Dogs as Home Companions, have
been cherished since time immemorial. A dog is like one of the family
in many a household, for those who really understand him are aware that
mentally he is not far removed from the human race, and emotionally is
practically the latter’s equal.
Perhaps some may smile at this assertion, but nevertheless it is a fact.
This book is for the dog lover; not he who raises dogs for show
purposes or as a commercial pursuit, though that is a most laudable
enterprise, but he who loves the companionship of an intelligent dog
and appreciates him for his real qualities as a home companion. As
guardian of the house, a faithful ally to share in the joys and the
sorrows of the household; or as a boon companion of the children. In
short, a dog which is, to all intents and purposes, “one of us.”
There are many people in the world, of this class, and as many more who
would have a dog, if they knew how to keep one, for deep down in their
subconsciousness the love of the dog is there. To those, this book may
be of help; it may prove that a dog in the home is like a regenerating
influence; and many a family needs regeneration.
There are still many more who feel that they would like a dog for home
and children if one could be kept in the city in a satisfactory manner.
It is true that the dweller in flats could not have a St. Bernard or
a Great Dane tagging about with him, but in many a flat small dogs
are harbored and live their lives in the companionship of their human
friends as happily, if not more so, than those dogs which live in
kennels.
I have no brief for the hot-house dog, however, or those that are not
living at least part of the time in the open, if it is necessary to
give him the entire run of the house, the best chairs to lounge upon
day and night, or perchance, the center of a nice, clean counterpane
in the best bedroom. That is not my idea of keeping a dog, but
nevertheless there is no reason why any person should live a dogless
life simply because his home is in the city.
The dog lover, intending to become the owner of the dog, should first
consider the facilities he has for keeping one and after the pros and
cons have been carefully gone over, when a thorough inventory of the
situation has been taken, then he should decide what breed is best
suited for his particular case. That is the object of this book; to
investigate the various breeds suitable for city life, to point out the
best way to care for the dog in health and in disease and to give such
little hints about dog keeping that the novice or one-dog owner may put
to good use under any contingency that may arise during the life of his
pet.
CHAPTER I. _Suitable Breeds. Group One--Toys._
Much depends upon the environment of the prospective dog owner, as
to what breed he may satisfactorily adopt for his home. Dwellers in
city flats or those living where yard room is circumscribed by narrow
limits, could not think of a St. Bernard, a Great Dane, a bloodhound,
or, even the medium-sized breeds, consequently it becomes manifest
that he must make his choice from among the toys or smaller varieties.
Suburbanites and others living on country places, on the other hand,
may prefer a more serviceable-looking dog than the diminutive, but
alert specimens that come under the head of toys, consequently, to aid
the novice in making his selection of a suitable canine home companion,
I have classified the most popular breeds in groups according to their
size and general characteristics.
[Illustration: THE PEKINGESE SPANIEL, TY TOU.]
Pre-eminent among the small varieties is the fashionable _Pekingese_.
He is, in the strict classification a toy, it is true. The reader may
sneer at the word “toy” and fancy that the Peke, as he is popularly
called, is as useless and difficult to rear as the proverbial hot-house
plant, but such is not the case. He is a hard, strong, easy-to-raise
animal, and one of the gamest for his inches of any breed in existence.
His shaggy mane, resembling that of a lion, his dark markings about
muzzle and eyes, and his tawny coat, together with his sturdy frame,
suggest a big little dog, and he is all of that. He makes an excellent
watch dog, because he is always keen and alert and the slightest noise
day or night will cause him to give the signal by his loud and rather
raucous bark. There is something formidable looking about the Peke as
he approaches the stranger, who dares invade the sacred precincts of
his mistress or master, and as an alarm there are few small dogs that
are superior.
The Pekingese sprang into popularity within the last twenty years,
though he is said to be one of the oldest of Chinese breeds, from
which country he was introduced into England and then to America where
he soon became the vogue, and some of the wealthy people of the East
paid almost fabulous figures for good specimens. While prices are now
more within reason for good specimens, the Peke cannot be classed as
a “poor man’s dog,” although it is possible, nowadays, to go to some
of the kennels making this breed a specialty and buy a “waster” at
a reasonable figure. By waster is meant a specimen that, while true
to his blood characteristics and in every sense as well bred as the
winners, is not good enough to win on the bench. The person buying a
Peke for a companion only, however, will get as much satisfaction in
owning a well-bred non-winner as he probably would if he had a great
champion. At the present time the fancy is breeding them as small
as possible and the larger ones are not in as great demand, though
they often come weighing as high as eighteen pounds when matured. The
novice dog-owner would not find a fifteen to eighteen-pound Pekingese
objectionable, however, for a house dog, though as a show performer
he would likely be unnoticed. As a matter of fact, the fancy is
now breeding them so small that their usefulness as a house dog is
practically bred away. In buying specimens of this breed for house
companions I would suggest one going over the ten-pound weight. First
because breeders will always gladly dispose of those that “come large”
at a more reasonable figure, and secondly because they are more hardy
and useful. It is the under ten-pound weight specimens that are the
show dogs, and the smaller the better, it seems.
The _Pomeranian_ is another dog which came into popularity within the
past quarter of a century and is a close second to the Peke as a show
dog today. The Pomeranian is a smaller edition of the old-time white
Spitz dogs which were so popular about forty or fifty years ago. In
breeding them down to the present size I have my doubts of the good
that was accomplished, though there is no gainsaying the fact that a
good Pomeranian of the very small type is a “foxy” specimen in the
show ring. They come in all colors; black, sable white, blue mottled
and in fact, in any shade imaginable. Indeed it has been said that
the fashionable thing nowadays for ladies is to have a Pom of every
shade to match their gowns, though this is somewhat overdrawn,
notwithstanding the numerous colors to be obtained.
The novice, buying a Pom for a companion only, and not for show, will
be able to secure one of the larger specimens at a reasonable price
much more readily than he would the very small ones, for, as in the
case of the Pekes, the smaller the dog the better the show specimen,
though naturally the animal must possess show points. “Foxy” in
appearance describes the Pomeranian to a nicety. With full, fluffy
coat, bushy tail, carried over an extremely short back, sharp nose,
snappy, small black eyes and an erect ear, he is in every sense of
the word a dog with a fox-like expression. At shows they are usually
classified as dogs not exceeding eight pounds and those over this
weight, though the larger the dog, the less chances he has of winning.
For utility purposes, the overweight dogs will answer as well, if
not better than the extremely small show specimens. Pomeranians, if
properly reared, after once attaining maturity are usually hardy.
[Illustration: THE BLENHEIM SPANIEL, CH. ROLLO.]
The _English Toy Spaniel_, though a very handsome, long-coated animal,
is not quite so popular as the two foregoing breeds, but they are as
easily reared, provided they do not come from stock that has been
pampered by generations of coddling. The breed is divided into four
varieties: the Blenheim, or white and orange; the Prince Charles, or
tri-color (white, black and tan); the ruby, or red; and the King
Charles, or black and tan. All are equally handsome, but as a rule
they are not as alert, or active, nor do I think as intelligent, as
some of the other breeds, though there are exceptions and I have seen
specimens of these varieties, reared in out-door kennels and accustomed
to exercising in the open, winter and summer, that proved to be hardy
and as active as a sporting spaniel. This is the exception rather than
the rule, however, for many specimens will be encountered that are very
poor movers.
The _Japanese Spaniel_ at one time gave indications of becoming a very
popular toy breed, but was superseded by the Pekes and Poms. No doubt
much of this was due to the fact that the Japs are not a particularly
hardy breed, they are more of the real lap-dog genus than most any of
the toy varieties; they lack in action and seem to be well content to
lie in a basket of silk cushions most of their lives, or preferably
in the laps of their fond mistresses. In appearance they resemble
somewhat the English Toy Spaniels, though less sprightly, as a general
thing. The Jap carries his tail or plume over his back while that of
the toy spaniel is docked. The color, according to the standard, may
be black and white, red and white, or parti-colored. The term red in
this instance includes all shades of sable, brindle, lemon and orange,
but the brighter the colors the more desirable the specimen. The white
ground should be a pure chalk white, not of the milky or creamy color
often seen in other breeds. At large shows the classification is
divided under seven pounds and over seven pounds, and it may be readily
observed that a Japanese spaniel under seven pounds will not make a
very formidable guardian of the home.
The _Toy Poodle_, while never taking the dog-world by storm, has held
his own for many years. He is a very active dog, inclined to be cross
and snappy very frequently, and therefore an uncertain equation with
children, but he is very keen and the slightest noise will attract his
attention. The standard calls for dogs under ten pounds in weight for
the toy varieties, though there is a large poodle, which, however, does
not come within the scope of this group. The toy poodle, while not as
hardy as some breeds, can nevertheless stand considerable hardships and
when he is reared like his larger brethren and not petted and pampered
until health and vitality are gone, he is an easy dog to keep. The
greatest objection some have to him is, that because his coat is white
he is difficult to care for, which to a certain extent, is the truth.
His coat should be curly, but wiry in texture. In action the dog is
quick, proud and graceful.
The _Italian Greyhound_ is another old breed; in fact he is one of the
oldest among the toys. He is in every sense of the word, a miniature
greyhound and good specimens are extremely graceful. Because of his
short coat and his generally slight appearance he is a dog that will
not permit of much exposure, though those who breed them say that
the Italian greyhound will stand the cold and the inclement winter of
the north as well as any of the toy breeds, which statement is rather
doubtful. For a clean, neat dog about the house, however, he is very
commendable. In the matter of intelligence he does not grade up with
some of the other varieties described, although he is very alert and
watchful.
The _Toy Black and Tan Terrier_ is another breed that is rather
difficult to rear, although his short black and tan soft coat commends
him as an indoor dog, for he is clean at all times and only a slight
brushing once a day will keep him in condition. They have been breeding
this variety so small that most of the specimens seen at the present
time, have become apple-headed and they are as lacking in intelligence
as they are in appearance. However, a black and tan weighing over ten
pounds makes an excellent dog, many of them becoming keen ratters,
though it is to be understood that the small ones would not do for
that purpose. Personally, if I wished to have a black and tan at all,
I should take the Manchester, of which the toy black and tan is a
miniature. The breed is not very popular in this country or England at
the present time.
Among the toy terrier varieties must be included also, the _Yorkshire_,
the _Maltese_ and the kindred varieties. These are very pretty
specimens for the fancier of oddities, but they require untold care to
keep them in condition, both as to coat and flesh, hence the time spent
upon them as house companions is scarcely worth the returns that one
obtains.
The _Brussel Griffon_ is another foreign dog that seemed to evoke
considerable interest some years ago, but this breed also is an oddity.
He is a monkey-faced, hard-coated dog with the pronounced whisker and
the general wire appearance of broken-coated terriers. His weight
ranges to nine pounds as the maximum for “big” dogs, while for the
smaller varieties, it is six pounds. It may readily be seen from this
that the breed is more ornamental than useful, but a livelier, more
active little dog cannot be imagined than this diminutive griffon whose
place of origin is said to be Belgium.
[Illustration: THE SCHIPPERCKE, TOGO.]
Another Belgian dog is the _Schippercke_, a terrier-like animal of
about ten pounds in weight. Very fiery and quick to take offense, he
is not a suitable dog for children, but as a watch dog he will give
the alarm at the slightest noise; furthermore, he is not averse to
backing up his bark with his bite. He is a very faithful dog, and
once he becomes attached to one person or a family, he will remain
faithful unto death. That is one of the features that appeals to most
of us and one is apt to forgive his shortcomings. Very few kennels are
now breeding this variety in America. The dog is black in color, with
a wiry-like coat, and a well pronounced mane. His nose is sharp, his
eyes small and black and his ears erect. The dog is a tailless variety;
although only a small percentage of the puppies are born with this
mutilation. The others have their tails removed, or gouged out when
they are quite young, in fact this should be done before they leave
their dam. In selecting a puppy it is well to take one with not a show
of white hair and see that the ears are small, the back short, the coat
dense, the eyes well set, and showing that “foxy” expression which is
so characteristic of this breed and the Pomeranian.
The _Pug_, once a very popular breed, has now practically gone out of
vogue, although indications point to its resuscitation. The breed,
speaking in broad terms, is not a particularly intelligent one, though
the dog’s short coat, his cleanly habits, and his generally odd
appearance stamped him one of the favorites of three decades ago, and
it is possible that he may return to favor once more.
CHAPTER II. _Suitable Breeds. Group Two--Terriers._
The terrier family is a large one in all its ramifications, and the
embryo dog lover, wishing to possess one of this variety will have a
wide field to go over. The terrier should have more action than the toy
varieties and if it is possible, a place should be provided where he
can romp out of doors for at least two or three hours a day. If that is
not feasible, then he must be taken to some park or open place where
he can run and exercise, for a terrier that is kept confined is as
entirely out of his environment as a fish would be out of water.
[Illustration: KEARN’S LORD KITCHENER.]
Among the many breeds of terriers, there are a number which enjoy equal
popularity. The _Boston Terrier_ is the great American product; he
is strictly an evolution of this country and has grown in popularity
in keeping with his qualities. The Boston is a clean, well-knit dog
of trappy appearance, with a short head that is a mean between the
bulldog and the terrier expression, if such a thing can be. He comes
in various weights up to twenty five pounds, and, as a matter of
fact, one finds them going as high as thirty and thirty-five, for
the Boston is a mixture and does not always throw true to type. The
present accepted dictum is, however, that the maximum weight should be
twenty-five pounds. At dog shows the weights are divided by classes
under fifteen pounds, fifteen pounds and under twenty, twenty pounds
and not exceeding twenty-five. The demand for the smaller weights seems
greatest, but one finds more uniformity in the medium weights--that
is, from fifteen to twenty pounds. The Boston terrier may be good
for no practical purposes, but he is alert and will prove to be a
fair guardian of the home. The appeal with this dog is his absolute
trimness, his clean cut appearance, and his short coat. For people
living in flats he is one of the most desirable dogs. In purchasing
one of this breed it is well to see the dog before paying the money.
While there are unscrupulous dealers of all breeds, it seems that more
irresponsible people have taken up the sale of this breed than any
other. I do not mean by this that there are not a large number of very
responsible breeders, but it is the dealer--the vendor of dogs--whose
word cannot always be taken at face value, therefore, in buying any
breed, see that you are obtaining what you are paying for, and in
buying a Boston, be sure of it from every angle.
[Illustration: THE SMOOTH-COATED FOX TERRIER, CH. SABINE RECRUIT.]
_Fox Terriers_, both wire-haired and smooth, are also very popular in
this country, the former probably more so at the present time than
the latter, although the smooth is much more easily kept, is just as
keen and alert, makes a varmint dog the equal of any, and as a house
companion has many advantages over his wire-haired cousin; the latter
is a beautiful dog when his coat is kept just right, but if not, he is
an abomination. Incidentally it may be said that it is both a science
and an art to keep the coats of any of the broken-haired varieties of
terriers in good order.
[Illustration: THE WIRE-HAIRED FOX TERRIER, CH. PRIDE’S HILL TWEAK ’EM.]
In temperamental characteristics there is little difference, if any,
between the smooth and the wire-haired varieties, and if the dog is
to be kept in the house mostly, perhaps the former would prove more
satisfactory. Prices of both of these varieties have been soaring here
of late, but this refers only to the show specimens. It is always
possible to procure a “waster” either because he does not conform to
the show standard in the finer points, is oversize, or for some other
reason. The fox terrier, as in fact practically all terriers, except
the toy varieties and possibly Bostons, are men’s dogs, and they can
furnish considerable sport if they are trained on various kinds of
“varmints.” In this connection it might be said that they take to this
class of work very readily, as they have been specifically bred for
this purpose since the earliest days.
[Illustration: THE IRISH TERRIER, CELTIC DEMON.]
The _Irish Terrier_, is a wire-coated dog, usually brick red or wheaten
in color. He is a handsome dog, but like the wire-haired fox terrier,
his coat must be kept right. For gameness, there are few terriers his
equal and he has been rightly named “Daredevil.” The Irish terrier
is a trifle larger in size than the fox terrier. He has all of that
varminty look, that fiery eye and alert expression, indicative of the
dog of quick action, and furthermore, he is a most intelligent animal
and makes one of the best dogs for the home that may be imagined. Since
the rise in popularity of some of the other smaller terrier breeds, the
Irish has fallen somewhat in the estimation of the fanciers, but those
who have bred him for years and have a specimen or two about would not
part with the fiery Irishman for all of the other terriers combined.
The Irish terrier answers in many respects the call for an all-purpose
dog, except that he is not so large as the Airedale and therefore
could not hold his own in fighting big game, though for his inches, no
better dog ever lived, and I have, on one or two occasions, seen Irish
terriers in bear packs which proved to be just as valuable as some of
the larger breeds; they were certainly just as game, and being very
quick and shifty, they could do considerable damage and still come away
uninjured, where a larger dog might suffer the consequences of his
temerity. The Irish terrier is essentially the dog for those who do not
care to keep an Airedale, but want one as game and as fearless as any
dog that lives.
Still another breed that comes between the small terriers and the
Airedale is the _Welsh Terrier_. A dog that in many points resembles
the Airedale, particularly in texture and color of coat, although the
head is of somewhat different formation. Welsh terriers never became
common in this country. Possibly because of the rapid rise of the
Airedale and partly because he was not exploited like some of the other
breeds. For the person wanting but one dog, however, the Welsh terrier
is an excellent companion, a good watch dog with all the terrier
proclivities, such as going to earth for game, and just as keen on rats
and other small furred animals as the other varieties.
To the uninitiated the Welsh terrier is a miniature Airedale. In height
he should be about sixteen inches, but should not have the appearance
of being leggy, nor on the other hand, of standing too low on the leg.
The markings--that is, color and coat, are similar to the Airedale;
black or grizzle saddle, with tan head, legs and underbody. Like in
Airedales, the rich deep tan and jet black bodies are most admired. His
average weight should be about twenty-two pounds, though a pound one
way or the other is not a handicap. While white is not desirable, a
small spot on the breast or toes does not disqualify.
A dog that attracted quite a bit of attention at the New York show
of 1922, was the _Kerry Blue Terrier_. There were only half a dozen
specimens of the breed shown and as far as this country is concerned,
it is a new variety, although it is said that it is one of the oldest
of Irish breeds. The dog is essentially an Irish terrier in a blue-gray
wire coat. It is said that the modern brick colored or wheaten Irish
terrier is descended from the Kerry blue and that by generations of
selection in breeding the red coats were finally obtained, but it seems
that fashion is again going back to the original colors and that is how
it transpires that the Kerry blues are coming into vogue. This terrier
has all the good qualities of the more modern reds. To the dog lover
wishing to own a dog that is somewhat out of the ordinary, the Kerry
blue will appeal, though owing to the present scarcity, it is quite
likely that prices will run high.
[Illustration: THE WEST HIGHLAND WHITE TERRIER, MOROVA.]
A very desirable small terrier which came into vogue twelve or fifteen
years ago, is the _West Highland White Terrier_, one of the border
varieties said to be of ancient origin, but brought to his present
perfection by scientific breeding and selection. The general appearance
of the West Highland white terrier, as we know the breed today, is that
of a small, game, hardy-looking terrier, possessed of considerable self
esteem, and like all good terriers, has that “varminty” appearance that
is such a distinguishing mark of this group of dogs. He is a stockily
built animal, showing strength from every angle, short legs, deep in
the chest, with ribs extending well to the powerful loin; very strong
in quarters and in fact, with all of his strength, he impresses one
as having considerable activity, which he really has, for there is no
quicker and more nimble terrier on four feet than the West Highlander
when it comes to a fight with rats or other “varmints,” even much
larger.
The color of the West Highlander is pure white; any other color, the
creamy or grey shade, is objectionable. The coat is also very important
and fanciers of the breed are more particular about this feature than
any other. As a matter of fact, a coat that meets with the perfection
that the standard calls for, is rare indeed. We hear much of the
so-called double-coat, but in this breed it is demanded. The outer coat
consists of harsh hair, about two inches long and absolutely free from
curl. The under coat, which resembles fur, is short, soft and close.
It is a real weather-resisting jacket such as we want on Airedales and
various other wire-coated terriers, but which is found so seldom, even
in this variety.
The West Highlander weighs from twelve to eighteen pounds; bitches
usually ranging from the minimum figure to sixteen pounds, while
the dogs average about two pounds more to the maximum weight. In
height they measure from eight to twelve inches at the shoulder. For
the prospective owner, who does not object to white dogs nor to the
long coat, the West Highlander white terrier will make an excellent
companion, though his comparative scarcity will probably keep the
prices at a high figure for some time to come.
A near relative to the West Highlander is the _Cairn Terrier_, a dog
of similar size and characteristics of the other Scottish varieties.
The dog is not very popular at this date, but being a newly cultivated,
though an old breed, the prices are still prohibitive. In all
essentials, however, the Cairn terrier will fill the same place as any
of the small terriers.
[Illustration: THE SCOTTISH TERRIER, CH. THE LAIRD.]
The ever popular _Scottish Terrier_, or Scottie, as he is more
affectionately called, is virtually one of the near relatives of
the two breeds just described. He has been long and slow in coming
to his own in this country, but having once attained a foothold in
America he is likely to retain his place when many of the creations of
faddists are forgotten. He has been becoming more popular every year
as a show dog, though he never will attain the popularity accorded
some of the other terrier breeds. What is more significant, however,
he is rapidly making himself more and more endeared to the one-dog
owner. As a companion about the premises, the house or the stables, the
Scottie is par excellence. A first class vermin dog, an alert watchman
and game to the core, the Scottie will indeed fill the requirements of
anyone wishing to own one small dog, for size and all other conditions
must sometimes be taken into consideration.
The general appearance of the Scottie is that of a sharp, bright,
active dog. His expression is his distinguishing mark, for he is
always on the qui vive, ready, as it were, “for something to turn
up.” The head is carried well up. He appears to be higher on the leg
than he really is; this is due to his short, wiry coat, which is
like bristles, and about two inches long all over the body. He has a
compact appearance, nevertheless, his legs seem to be endowed with
almost an abnormal amount of bone. His back is short, his ribs well
sprung, his loin and quarters well filled up and in every essential,
he is powerfully put together. He carries his ears erect and they are
always alert. His eyes are small and of a very dark hazel color, his
tail, which is never docked, is about seven inches long and is carried
with a slight upward bend, which under excitement is apt to be carried
still more gaily. In height he should be from nine to twelve inches
and in weight the maximum is twenty pounds. Dogs going over that are
considered too large. Of recent years this breed has been becoming
more popular in all parts of the country and at the present time good
specimens may be bought at a very reasonable figure; that is, puppies
at weaning age, or a little later. Naturally, more matured dogs, with
the earmarks of becoming bench show flyers would still command a price
that the average one-dog owner would not care to pay for a mere home
companion. The breed is very intelligent and easily broken to all the
natural pursuits of the terrier.
[Illustration: THE SEALYHAM TERRIER, BARBERRYHILL GIN RICKEY.]
The _Sealyham Terrier_ is another breed that has come into popularity
recently, and with an active club here in America to foster it, it has
made rapid strides during the past four or five years. In the eyes of
the tyro he is a short-legged, over-weighted wire-haired fox terrier,
although the standard emphasizes the fact that he should not resemble
the latter breed either in character, expression or shape and such
resemblance “should be heavily penalized.” As a matter of fact, in head
properties there is nothing to indicate the fox terrier in a Sealyham
of correct type. His head is of a different formation. The skull is
wide between the ears and as the dog is describes as being the ideal
combination of the Dandie Dinmont and the bull terrier of twenty pounds
in weight, this skull formation is supposed to be the mien between the
two. It is slightly domed and rounded, with practically no stop and a
slight indentation running down between the brows. The jaws are long,
powerful and level, much wider and heavier than in the fox terrier. The
nose is black and the nostrils wide apart. The ears are of medium size
and set low, carried closely against the cheek, which characteristic
is insisted upon since a forward ear carriage would resemble a fox
terrier too much. The coat is dense and wiry; longer than that in
which the wire-haired fox terrier is usually shown, and it should be
especially profuse on head, neck and throat. The body is compact and
the tail is docked and must be carried gaily. The color should be a
white ground although patches of lemon, tan, brindle or badger-pied
markings are permissible on head and ears, though black spots are
objectionable and while they do not absolutely disqualify, dogs with
such markings should be severely penalized. The size of the dogs
should be from nine to twelve inches and bitches slightly less. Weight
in this breed is not any particular criterion and very frequently a
ten-inch dog may be so compactly and sturdily built that he might weigh
twenty-four pounds, while a larger one of rangier type could easily
go considerably less. The Sealyham’s sphere is similar to that of the
other short-legged terrier breeds; indeed, there are so many dogs of
similar characteristics that the question has frequently been asked,
“Why is a Sealyham?”
[Illustration: THE DANDY DINMONT TERRIER, CH. BLACKET, JR.]
The _Dandie Dinmont_ antedates the Sealyham by many years and is a dog
which became famous in literature. It will be remembered by those who
read Walter Scott that the hero for which the breed was named is Dandie
Dinmont, one of the noted personages in “Guy Mannering.” The quaint
character is well drawn in this novel of Sir Walter, but his dogs,
Mustard and Pepper, and Old Mustard and Old Pepper, etc., are even more
minutely described. No doubt at that time this type of terrier was
quite common in the border country, but it remained for dog fanciers to
fix the name upon this particular variety.
The size of the Dandie is eight to eleven inches at the shoulder and
the length of the dog measuring from the top of the shoulder to the
root of the tail should not be more than twice the dog’s height,
preferably one or two inches less. Weight ranges from fourteen to
twenty-four pounds, but the ideal weight is about eighteen pounds.
These weights are estimated for dogs that are in good working
condition. The color is mustard and pepper and it was because of these
uniform and pronounced colors that the quaint farmer in Scott’s novel
could not get away from the names; all of them, as previously said,
were Mustards and Peppers, either young or old. The pepper in the
present-day Dandie Dinmont ranges from dark bluish to a silvery grey,
but the intermediate shades are preferred. The Mustards vary from
reddish brown to a pale fawn, the head being a creamy white. Nearly all
specimens have a patch of white on the breast.
The coat is the important point, and characterizes the Dandie Dinmont.
The hair should be about two inches long; that from the skull to the
root of the tail, a mixture of hard and soft hair, which gives a crisp
feel to the hand, but the hard hair should not be wiry as in most
broken-haired terriers; the coat is in every sense of the word what
is called piley. The hair on the under part of the body is softer and
lighter in color than on top. The skin on the under body should accord
with the color of the dog.
The Dandie Dinmont is an odd looking creature, but game to the core and
a vermin dog. He is also an excellent watch dog and does not hesitate
to attack an intruder who might presume to trespass upon his master’s
domain. To those who want a rather out of the ordinary looking dog
the Dandie Dinmont will be the answer, for he will not only attract
attention, but also fill every requirement.
The _Bedlington_ is coated very much like the Dandie Dinmont, but
stands up higher on the leg. He is described as the smartest, the
largest and the gamest of the English terriers, but this was before the
advent of the Airedale. His height is from fifteen to sixteen inches
at shoulder, his back is slightly arched, while the dogs average in
weight about twenty-four pounds, the bitches going slightly less. The
origin of this dog is said to be in crosses in which the Dandie Dinmont
and probably the otter hound might have figured. In this respect he
approaches the Airedale in his early history. The Bedlington never
became popular in this country and as a matter of fact, even in England
he is not found in great numbers.
[Illustration: WAR CHIEF OF DAVISHILL.]
The _Airedale_ is the largest of the terrier varieties. Indeed, he is
such a large dog that he does not really belong in that class, for
while possessing most of all the other terrier attributes, he does not
go to earth for his quarry and this, in the strictest sense is what
all terriers are supposed to do. Be that as it may, the Airedale has
become the most popular of allround dogs, not only here in America, but
in every part of the world. Whether or not too much “refinement” in
breeding this dog for bench show purposes will eventually ruin him for
the allround utility dog that he is, still remains a mooted question,
but one thing is quite certain; he has found a place in the hearts of
sportsmen and this class will always breed types which will retain
their usefulness, hence the history of this breed here in America may
eventually parallel that of the English setter, in that there are two
types--one for actual use, the other for show only. It seems assured,
however, that the useful Airedale and the fined-down show dog are
growing wider apart each year. The reader who is especially interested
in the Airedale, is referred to my previous book, “The Airedale for
Work and Show.”
The _Bull Terrier_, a smooth coated white dog, makes an attractive
animal for the premises. He may not be so certain as a companion for
children unless brought up in their company from puppyhood, but he is a
good vermin dog and also a watchful guardian of the home. A pure bred
white bull terrier without the admixture of bulldog blood like one
finds so many among the brindled varieties, commands a good price, but
he is worth the money. Because of his pure white color he may not be so
easily kept immaculately clean, but having a short coat, he is easily
washed and in his case frequent bathing can do little or no harm, which
cannot be said of a number of breeds.
CHAPTER III. _Suitable Breeds. Group Three--Medium-Sized Dogs._
As with the terrier varieties, there is a wide field for selection
among the medium-sized dogs, both sporting and non-sporting;
consequently much depends upon what the dog is intended for. If any of
the members of the household are inclined to sports afield, then one of
the many varieties of spaniels would make a suitable house companion,
for aside from being an alert watch dog, he is a natural all round
hunter and is equally good on upland game as on water fowl. Spaniels
make excellent retrievers, very good grouse and quail dogs where the
mere questing for and finding of game is desired, but naturally the dog
should be educated for the purpose. Unlike the pointer, the setter,
or the griffon, the spaniel does not point, but finds the game and
flushes it in front of the sportsman; in view of this fact he must be
trained to quest within gun range. This, however, is easily taught
the spaniel, for all of the many varieties are intelligent animals and
therefore easily educated. A spaniel makes an excellent dog for ladies
who enjoy field shooting, for the reason that he is so much more easily
handled than any of the bird dog varieties, and peculiarly amenable to
the gentler sex.
As a guardian of the home the spaniel might not strike terror to the
hearts of unwelcome intruders, like some of the terrier or other
breeds, but they are good watch dogs, quick to give the alarm upon the
approach of strangers, and besides, they are very docile and cleanly
about the premises. There may be some objection to the long coat, on
the ground that if the animal is shedding, he is prone to leave stray
hairs on rugs and furniture, but in this connection it might be said
that daily grooming will ameliorate this evil to a great extent, for
after all is said, a dog that is allowed to frequent the house even
during only a small part of the day, must be kept clean whether he is
a long or a short-haired one.
[Illustration: THE COCKER SPANIEL, CHAMPION OBO II.]
Of the many varieties of spaniel, the _Cocker_ is the most popular.
They come in all colors; solid blacks, reds, creams, orange and browns,
but if of the latter color, it should be of a rich liver and not the
washed out shades which sometimes crop out in a litter. These off-color
ones should be eschewed if one wishes to conform to the standard.
Neither should the whole-colored dogs have white on them, but a strip
of this color on the chest, while objectionable, should not disqualify.
The parti-colors are also very handsome animals. These are white and
black, liver and white, orange and white, cream and white, and roans;
either blue or red.
The standard weight calls for cockers ranging from eighteen to
twenty-four pounds. Here of late it has become fashionable to breed
them down to the minimum weight, but this is almost making toys of
what was once considered one of the principal sporting breeds. If
the prospective purchaser intends to use his dog for sporting purposes
he is advised to select one from stock that will come nearer reaching
the maximum rather than the minimum weight, for the eighteen pound
cocker is entirely too small for utility purposes. As a matter of fact,
some years ago twenty-eight pounds was the standard maximum weight of
working cockers which is really more logical in a dog that is intended
for field work. At all events, it is better to have a cocker over, than
under the weight allowed by the standard, if one expects to make use of
him afield.
The cocker should be a neat-headed, wide-awake, serviceable looking
little dog, with rather large dark eyes and an intelligent expression.
He should stand on strong, well-boned, but short legs absolutely
straight in front, with well bent stifles behind. His quarters should
be muscular and powerful, especially when viewed from behind; short in
body when viewed from above, yet standing over considerable ground. He
should, in short, give one the impression of a massive little dog, yet
at the same time, he must have considerable speed and endurance. The
coat is flat or slightly wavy, silky and very dense, with ample feather
on legs and his feet should also be well supplied with hair, but the
coat should never be curly. The stern is usually docked to a length of
about two or three inches. This should be carried just below the level
of the back and when the dog is working or animated, its action should
be merry, but never carried gaily.
The _Field Spaniel_ may be described as a larger edition of the cocker;
longer and lower in body in proportion to his general make-up, but
a well-knit, massive dog, the males weighing from thirty-seven to
forty-five pounds, the bitches about five pounds less. The true field
spaniel is always black, though his near kin is the springer which
comes in parti-colors also. There are various strains of the springer
spaniel, as for instance the Welsh and the English, but in all
essentials they are identical. The difference between the springer and
the field spaniel is that the former is usually shorter in body and
higher on the leg. In the matter of intelligence he is fully the equal
of the cocker or the field spaniel and for field work he is probably
the most practical of the three, especially when it comes to retrieving
waterfowl.
The _Clumber Spaniel_ is the largest of the land spaniels, the weight
in males ranging from fifty-five to sixty-five pounds, the females from
thirty-five to fifty pounds. He is a strong, sturdy, compact dog, with
profuse coat, but a smaller ear of the V-shaped variety. In color he
must always be white and lemon or white and orange, ticks on the head
or fore legs add to his beauty. He should have few, if any markings on
his body. This variety is not very numerous in this country, though in
many parts of England he is used quite regularly as a sporting dog.
The _Sussex_ is another variety of the large land spaniels, smaller,
however, than the Clumber, weighing from thirty-five to forty-five
pounds. In color he is a rich golden liver. In this country he is
practically unknown, but he is numbered as among the oldest of breeds
in England.
The _Irish Water Spaniel_ scarcely comes within the province of this
book. He is a large dog, standing well up on the leg. It is said that
he is a cross between the Irish setter and the large poodle, but this
may be all conjecture. At all events he stands as high at the shoulder
as an Irish setter. In color he is liver; any white except on chest
or toes, disqualifies. His coat is a mass of short curls back to his
tail which should be entirely free from feather. On his skull he has
a well-defined top-knot; indeed, this is one of the distinguishing
marks of the breed. As a house dog he is almost too large though for
wild fowl retrieving under any and all weather conditions, he is par
excellence.
[Illustration: THE CHOW, LORD CHUMLEY.]
Among the non-sporting medium-sized breeds, the _Chow Chow_ stands
preeminently to the forefront. He is a Chinese breed, like the
Pekingese, and considering that he breeds very true to type, it is
possible that he is of more ancient origin than many of our much lauded
“pure breeds” of England. The chow is given credit for being a very
intelligent animal; he is a good house dog and a faithful companion.
In size he is about like the old-fashioned Spitz dog from which the
Pomeranian is descended. In color he should be either black, red,
yellow, blue, or white, but the shade should run uniform except that
the underpart of the tail and inside of thighs are frequently of a
lighter shade. He carries his tail curled over his back; his coat
should be abundant, dense, straight and somewhat coarse in texture,
with a soft, wooly undercoat. His ears are carried erect. He has a
rather peculiar sour expression and his eyes are dark and small in
all but the blues, in which a light color is permissible. One of
the distinguishing features of a chow is his tongue, which in pure
specimens is blue-black. His nose should also be black, large and wide.
The chow became popular about a quarter of a century ago, then for a
time the interest lagged, but of late years his popularity seems to be
increasing once more. The dog is perhaps among what one might call
the high-priced varieties, but it is always possible to buy a “waster”
which will answer the same purpose for a companion as the perfect
show dog. A breeder of chows once said to me: “This breed has all the
oriental mysticism about it that one finds in everything that comes
from the Far East; they seem to know what you are thinking about and
at times, as they lie there on the rug, one imagines they are actually
going to speak and tell you what they have on their minds. But once
your friend, a chow is always your friend.”
[Illustration: THE FRENCH BULLDOG, CH. GUGUSSE, JR.]
The _French Bulldog_ is another breed that has come into great
popularity during the past fifteen years, especially among the ladies.
As far as his actual usefulness is concerned, we cannot say much,
although his admirers might probably take one to task if this statement
were made in their presence. He makes a delightful companion, smooth
of coat and clean in his habits. For the house he is probably one of
the most desirable breeds among the many, even though his real utility
might be questioned. However that may be, the dog is popular and good
specimens command high prices.
In appearance the French bulldog resembles the Boston in many
respects--that is, a Boston of the heavier type and with uncut ears,
but he is more muscular and substantial in appearance. His ears must
be of the pronounced “bat” variety; his head, large, square and
broad; skull almost flat; the underjaw, like the English bulldog, is
large, powerful, and undershot, with the muzzle well laid back and
the muscles of the cheeks fully developed. The tail should be either
straight or screwed (but not curly) short, and hung low. The eyes are
wide apart set low down in the skull, as far away from the ears as
possible. Back must be short, the chest broad, the forelegs straight
and muscular and wide apart, while the hind legs should correspond
in the matter indicating strength. The French bulldog standard calls
for two weights; dogs under twenty-two pounds and those of twenty-two
pounds and not exceeding twenty-eight. The colors are any shade of
brindle, though the darker the better. The novice looking for a good
specimen, however, should be careful about the absolute disqualifying
points as for instance, other than bat ears, any mutilation, solid
black, black and white, black and tan, liver and mouse color, eyes of
different color (as they will come sometimes), nose other than black
and hare lip, which is also a fault that frequently crops up and many
unscrupulous breeders are apt to foist such undesirable specimens upon
the unsuspecting novice who might be none the wiser.
The _English Bulldog_ is another of the “manufactured breeds” so
grotesquely ugly that he is beautiful in the eyes of some. The bulldog
will attract attention anywhere, but as to his sphere of usefulness
in these days of his grotesque appearance, there is always room for
doubt. There was once a time when the bulldog was a shifty and useful
animal, but as he is at present bred, this quality has, to a great
extent disappeared with his “improvement,” although his admirers will
claim stoutly that he is a good watch dog and quite intelligent. His
very artificiality makes him a dog which is difficult to rear, being
susceptible to various diseases to a much greater degree than most of
the more normal breeds.
[Illustration: THE BADGER BITCH BERTHA VON STROMBERG.
This breed was formerly known as the dachshund.]
Everyone, even he who is only remotely interested in dogs, knows
the _Badger Dog_, if not under this name, at least under his old
appellation of dachshund, by which he was known up to the time of the
World War when his Teutonic origin was expediently disguised under the
name that he now bears. Owing to his length of body and his abbreviated
legs he has always been known as the original “sausage” dog, for his
length of body is several times his inches in height, which should be,
at shoulder, only from 7-1/8 to 8-1/5 inches. The weight is divided at
bench shows, as for instance, dogs under sixteen and one-half pounds,
bitches under fifteen and one-half pounds. Middleweights from the
maximum lightweight division to twenty-two pounds. Heavyweights, dogs
and bitches over twenty-two pounds.
The badger dog, while not classified among the terriers, has the
characteristics of that family, for he goes to ground for his quarry,
and in every other way shows his terrier characteristics. On the other
hand, he is also a fairly good trailer and, like the beagle, will hunt
rabbits. As a house companion he is intelligent and cleanly; his short,
satiny coat fitting him eminently for a ladies’ dog. The breed comes in
a variety of colors: black and tan, all tan, all red, yellowish red and
spotted in various shades.
[Illustration: THE BEAGLE HOUND CH. IMPORTED CRUISER.]
The _Beagle_, while not to be considered a house dog, is small and
may be kept very nicely in a small place, provided he is allowed to
run and exercise in the open every day and is given the opportunity
to hunt his favorite game--rabbits--frequently. As a keen-nosed dog
for his own sphere he has no equal, and having been bred for years
with this sole purpose in view, his intelligence is concentrated along
these lines and not toward making him an allround home companion, but
given the opportunity and the human companionship, his intelligence
may be improved to a wonderful degree. The beagle is in every sense of
the word a miniature foxhound, ranging in height from nine to fifteen
inches which is the maximum; dogs over this height are disqualified
at bench shows and beagle trials. The classification in vogue at the
present time is dogs thirteen inches and under, and dogs over thirteen
and not over fifteen inches.
The _Whippet_, which is a miniature English greyhound, is a neat,
cleanly dog, not perhaps a desirable companion when all essentials
of an intelligent dog are taken into consideration, but he is a trim
animal, very distinguished in appearance, and short of coat, hence he
is worth considering on this account, if for no other. At the present
time the whippet is coming into greater popularity, mainly because of
the fact that bench show clubs are giving him ample classification and
further, because as a racing dog he has gained quite a vogue in some
parts of the country.
[Illustration: THE CURLY POODLE, CH. ORCHARD MINSTREL]
Among the many intelligent non-sporting dogs is the _Large Poodle_, a
dog somewhat larger than the chow. He is in every sense of the word a
larger edition of the toy poodle, but a much more useful dog because
of his size and superior intelligence. The poodle is one of the most
readily trained dogs in existence today. As a trick dog he has no
equals and he may be broken to retrieve from land and water with the
same facility as any of the sporting retrievers or spaniels. There
are two varieties of the poodle; the corded and the curly. The latter
is the more common and also the more practical, for the corded poodle’s
coat is the most difficult of any among the canine race, to care for.
The hair on the latter hangs from the dog in long rope-like strands,
almost touching the ground and unless it is given daily attention it
is likely to become matted and soiled. The corded poodle is covered
with short curls all over his body. It is customary to clip them about
one-third; that is, the coat is left on head, neck and front, extending
well back of the shoulders while the loin, hips and back legs are
closely clipped, leaving a tuft here and there and on the end of the
docked tail. A well cared for poodle makes a unique appearance. The
breed comes in all black, all white, all blue and all red. The colors
should be solid--that is, on blacks there should be no white and vice
versa.
A breed that promised to come into popularity some years ago is the
foreign born _Samoyede_. Although it is not so many years ago that this
breed lived in a semi-wild state in Siberia where reclaimed specimens
were used for hunting bear, and by the natives of Lapland, he was
used for rounding up tame elk. The samoyede is peculiarly amenable to
civilization and the companionship of human beings. Fifteen or twenty
years ago the breed was seen in fairly large numbers on the show
benches of this country and England. After that there came a lull, but
of late he seems to be gaining in popularity. In the far north he was
used as a sledge dog like the husky and other arctic breeds. The dog
is long-coated and in many respects resembles the Spitz, though he is
larger than the average of those specimens. He may not be the ideal
dog to have about in the home where there are children as he is of
uncertain temperament, but he is a rather unusual looking animal for
which reason he has gained a certain amount of notoriety.
[Illustration: THE DOBERMAN PINSCHER CH. BETEL DOBERMAN.]
The _Doberman Pinscher_, which is really a terrier possessing
characteristics of the Airedale, is another dog which, when he once
becomes fully known and appreciated for his sterling qualities, will
become a more general home favorite. He is smooth coated, prick-eared
and black and tan in color, weighing in the neighborhood of thirty-five
to forty pounds. He is very intelligent and is as easily taught
to perform the duties of an allround “varmint dog” as any breed
in existence. As a police dog he is said to be even more readily
trained than the breed which is supposed to be a specialist in that
sphere--namely the shepherd dog--until lately known as the German or
Belgian shepherd dog.
While on the subject of the latter breed, it might be said in passing,
that this dog is gaining in popularity each year. He is said to be
intelligent, in fact he is easily trained, but here also is a breed
which is somewhat uncertain in temper despite the stories to the
contrary. As a watch dog he cannot be surpassed. For those having
country estates or large enough out-door space, this dog is a very
desirable one, but it is scarcely possible to keep one of these in
limited quarters.
The same may be said of any of the larger breeds, and as this book is
devoted to the dogs that are suitable for the large towns and cities
we shall refer the aspiring fancier who is bent upon going in for the
large dogs to procure a copy of “Dogcraft,” a former work of mine which
gives the standards of all breeds, large and small.
CHAPTER IV. _Housing Problems._
The proper housing of a dog is one of the important, if not the most
important questions in dog keeping. We are assuming that the budding
dog fancier has decided upon what breed he wants to own and has found
an individual to his liking. Perhaps the purchase has been made and
he has brought his canine acquisition home to find that he has never
given the question of housing him any thought. Under such circumstances
he is in a dilemma. His new charge is like a white elephant on his
hands. Naturally, if the dog is still a young puppy some make-shift
arrangement may be made, perhaps in some odd corner of the house, but
it must be remembered that all puppies, aside from the fact that they
are not house-broken are also a nuisance in many other ways, for they
have a special predilection for the master’s slippers or some article
of wearing apparel belonging to the mistress of the house, and they
take special delight in tearing such things to pieces for the mere
amusement of the thing and because they must have an outlet for their
excess of energy. Another chapter will be devoted to the early training
lessons, so let us, therefore, in this chapter, take up the question of
sleeping quarters and a playground for the youngster.
Where the dog is a medium-sized one, or a toy, perhaps, it will not
be necessary to provide out-door quarters except for exercising, and
therefore, an arrangement may be made for the new dog to occupy a place
in the kitchen or basement, but it must be a place where he will learn
to go either for the night or during the day time when he wishes a
quiet nap all to himself. Personally, I am no advocate for keeping a
dog in the house night and day. It is true, many dog lovers do this and
when the breed is no larger than say, a fox terrier or even a chow,
the arrangement may be satisfactory enough, but never, under any
circumstance, allow a dog to have the run of the house at all hours
of the day or night. If you have decided to allow him to sleep in the
house, provide a box or basket large enough for the purpose. Put this
in some corner in the kitchen or even in the basement, though unless
this latter place is absolutely dry and subject to ventilation, it is
not a desirable place for sleeping quarters. In providing a sleeping
place, whether it be basket, box or bench, it should be raised several
inches above the floor. This is to obviate draughts which are sure to
prevail in cold weather, for no matter how tight a door may fit there
is always a certain amount of cold air blowing in through the crevice
at the bottom, and incidentally, this is one of the most frequent
causes for colds, catarrh or even pneumonia. If you have your doubts
about it, try sleeping upon the floor on a cold night yourself. If the
dog be a toy breed, a shallow basket provided with a pillow filled with
pine of cedar shavings, or pine needles is a most suitable bed. The
pillow should be covered with some coarse, heavy material that will not
tear easily and should be a covering that goes over the pillow proper;
the material inside whether shavings or pine needles should be encased
in another cover. The idea being that the outer covering can be removed
and washed frequently, for no matter how clean a dog may be, the canine
smell will in time permeate the cover and it must be changed and washed
at least once every two weeks if absolute cleanliness is desired. For
most of the larger breeds, a carpet or rug will be sufficient bedding.
Loose bedding, such as shavings or straw is not to be thought of in the
house.
The box or basket provided for the bed should be large enough to
permit the dog to lie at his ease. If a box is used, the better plan
is to remove one side with the exception of a small strip at the
bottom to hold the bedding in and of course, the top should also be
removed. These sleeping boxes or baskets should be put out in the sun
and air every week or so and when necessity demands, they should be
scrubbed with warm soap water, to which a few drops of Creolin-Pierson
may be added. This will keep the sleeping box clean and obviate any
possibility of vermin, for once fleas infest a place where a dog
frequents, then all thought of housing indoors must be abandoned.
Far the better plan, however, is to provide sleeping quarters in the
garage or stable, especially for the larger breeds; in fact, all
breeds except toys. In cold weather these boxes may be closed on top
and on all sides, leaving only a small opening for entrance or exit.
The advantage of this being that such boxes can be filled with good,
clean straw in cold weather and there are very few dogs who cannot
sleep comfortably and warmly in such a bed, even when the mercury is
down close to the zero mark. Terriers, as a matter of fact, are very
hardy and will really do better in an out-building of this kind than
in the house or basement. Naturally, one must be governed according
to circumstances and if the owner of a dog has no building on the
premises, part of which may be used for his pet’s quarters he can build
a small house out of doors and provide a runway in connection. Nearly
all of the wire, or long-haired breeds will do well in these out-door
kennels the year round, provided the bedding is warm, the box free from
draughts, and a piece of carpet or burlap is tacked over the opening in
the coldest of weather. This should be arranged in such a way that it
is loose on the sides and bottom, so as to permit of easy entrance and
exit.
In building an out-door house for the dog it is well to adopt more
modern plans than the old-time “dog house” closed on top and all sides
with the exception of the door in front. This style has been in vogue
and has answered the purpose for many a high-bred dog, but if the owner
wishes to have something more elaborate he might build a small house
having a hallway or vestibule before reaching the sleeping quarters
proper. Such a house must be built double the size of the ordinary
one to allow for the extra “room.” It should also be so constructed
that it may be opened from the top, either by supplying hinges to the
roof which make it possible to raise either side, or the roof may be so
constructed that the entire top of the house can be lifted off. This
will permit of easy cleaning of the interior. It is well to keep the
interior whitewashed. A coating of this every few months will aid very
materially in keeping the place free from vermin.
When it is possible to provide a runway or small enclosure where the
dog may exercise in at any time he desires, it is far better than to
chain him. These runways can be constructed cheaply, of heavy mesh
wire. In constructing this it must be with a view of making them high
enough to prevent the dog from leaping or climbing over. A good plan
to adopt is to build the fence and then put another strip of wire
mesh a foot or eighteen inches wide horizontally from the top of the
posts, allowing this to go on the inside, thus even though the dog
is inclined to jump or climb, when he reaches the top of the fence,
this extra width of wire will prevent him from going over. Another
precaution must be taken against burrowing out. This is easily done by
digging a trench and allowing the wire to go into the ground a foot or
more, then filling this trench up with stones or brick and covering
with earth. No dog will be able to dig under such a fence.
If a dog must be chained to his kennel, as sometimes is the case, he
should be given at least two hours of freedom every day. Far the better
way is to extend a wire close to the ground, from the kennel to a post
thirty or forty feet (more if possible) from this. The post at the far
end should be driven or planted in the ground, allowing only enough
above the surface to attach the wire to, for dogs have a faculty of
getting their chains twisted about a post that might be dangerous or
even fatal to them. A ring should be put on this wire to which the
swivel of the chain may be attached. This gives the animal a certain
amount of freedom and exercise, and it will soon become noticeable
how he takes advantage of it. It is needless to say that all kennels
out of doors should be built of matched boards dove-tailed together
so as to admit no draughts, furthermore, the kennel should be placed
on a foundation or on piles several inches from the ground. For more
elaborate plans of kennels when more dogs are kept, the reader is
referred to an earlier work of mine entitled “Practical Dog Keeping for
the Amateur.”
CHAPTER V. _Becoming Acquainted--Early Lessons._
While most any breed of dog under one year old will soon learn to adapt
himself to new friends and environment, and therefore no stipulated
time is imperative as to what age he should be, at the time of his
purchase, there is something about the wee youngsters of eight or ten
weeks old that appeals to all, and the general thing is to obtain your
puppy shortly after he is weaned.
It is true, there are some objections to this plan, principally because
a puppy of this tender age is still unbroken to the house and is also
more susceptible to the ordinary ills that beset the young life of
practically all canines, but on the other hand, there is something
particularly interesting in a wee puppy and he will, as a rule, soon
become the pet of the entire household. As for the ills, with ordinary
care, one can tide the youngster over these much more easily than the
novice may imagine. As a matter of fact, I would rather begin with a
twelve weeks old puppy and break him to cleanliness about the house
than I would a dog of one year old, for in a majority of cases, when
purchasing a puppy of the latter age, you will be told that he is
house-broken, when as a matter of fact he is not, consequently this
education must begin at a rather late age. Another reason why the very
young puppy is more satisfactory is because there is a greater interest
in watching him develop physically as well as mentally; therefore, all
things considered, I would advise selecting your dog when he is still a
mere baby; which means under three months of age.
As for breed, that is a matter to decide according to your own
inclinations. The young of all animals are interesting, but this is
particularly so of dogs, irrespective of the breed. Even the veriest
mongrel, as a small puppy, is a most engaging creature.
Assuming that you have purchased your puppy and taken him home and he
is one of those innocent-looking balls of fluffy hair from which a pair
of sharp eyes protrude, and short legs carry his wobbly body about.
Is it not only natural that everyone of the household will make much
over him, if they are normal human beings? It will be noted that even
though this bit of dog flesh is still less than twelve weeks old, how
readily he will make up with them. A young puppy, still unaccustomed
to the rebuffs of the world and the “slings and arrows” of canine
fortune has confidence in all whom he encounters. His perceptions are
keen, however, and he will soon learn that there are some or at least
one in the family to whom he may attach himself as his real master or
mistress, and therefore this should be the person to teach him his
early knowledge of household etiquette. It should be this person, also,
who imposes upon himself or herself the duty of feeding the puppy. Of
course this is not entirely essential, but if it is left to one person,
it may be generally taken for granted that the youngster will be fed
regularly and not too much. When the entire household looks after the
feeding, the chances are that he will be too well cared for, and too
frequent feeding is one of the banes of dog-keeping. An overabundance
of food is more dangerous than too little, although I am no advocate of
the starvation plan.
The matter of feeding will be taken up in the next chapter, so let
us pass on to the puppy’s early education. In the first place, if
a secluded nook has been decided upon where he is to sleep nights,
he should be introduced to this the very first night. To begin by
pampering him is only deferring a duty that must be done sooner or
later. Assuming that he has a basket or box in the kitchen, the last
thing before he is put to bed, it is well to feed him. At this early
stage the last feed in the evening may consist of milk and bread, or
any of the puppy meals with milk poured over. Put him in his bed, turn
out the lights and leave him. The chances are that he will not remain
in his bed, but come out and go near the door communicating with the
other apartments of the house, and whine. Go to him, chide him and put
him back in his bed, commanding him to lie down. This, of course, he
will not understand at once and it is quite likely that for the first
three or four nights he will make life hideous by his howling. However,
it is surprising how soon he will learn that he must make the best of
a new condition, for to him it is an entirely new situation in life.
Coming from his litter mates in a home where he has been accustomed to
the association of his mother, his brothers and sisters, it is quite
natural that the nostalgia, or homesickness, should oppress him. Be
firm, however, and make him “stay put” not only the first night, but
every night and he will soon be broken of the night howling.
All dogs are naturally cleanly in their habits and it will be noticed
that even very young puppies will go some distance away from their
nests to obey the call of nature, consequently when the puppy is
brought into the home, correct habits may soon be taught. The
principal care is to catch him in the act and then remove him summarily
from the house. If he persists, a very slight tap or two and a word of
reprimand as he is being banished may assist quite materially in making
him understand. Some breeds are more easily broken than others. I have
found Airedales and cocker spaniels very easy to break of uncleanly
habits. Pointers and setters require more time, but on the whole, most
of the medium-sized breeds can be broken very readily. The new owner
should not lose sight of the fact, however, that he must not be too
severe. Firmness and prompt action are the principal requisites that
must be kept in mind in breaking a puppy, but brutality never succeeds.
One of the earliest lessons that any young dog should be taught is
his name. This should be chosen as early as possible and whenever the
attention of the puppy is to be attracted, he should be called by his
name. All puppies will come to most anyone who will play with them.
On such occasions it is well to give the youngster his first lessons.
Call him to you, using the name you have selected. If he comes to
you, pet and fondle him, repeating the name meanwhile, and reward him
with a choice morsel to eat. Thus, in a very short time the dog will
learn to come promptly when called. Teaching to whistle may be done in
much the same manner, either in a large room or in a yard. Blow the
whistle when he is some distance from you and call his name immediately
after. He will be attracted, but will come at the sound of his name
and not the whistle. By frequent repetition, however, he will soon
learn to associate the blast of the whistle with the verbal command and
come to you promptly, especially if at first he is rewarded with the
ever-present choice morsel.
If your dog happens to be a spaniel or one to be used as a sporting
companion, retrieving is an accomplishment which is a very excellent
one. Any dog will run after a ball if it is thrown from him after his
attention is first attracted. If one begins when the pupil is still
quite young he may be taught to become a perfect retriever through
the “Play Method,” as described in my book, “The Working Dog and His
Education.” When the ball is thrown the command should be given to
“Fetch!” The puppy will get the ball nine times out of ten, but he is
likely to run away with it and toss it about in play. He should be
induced to bring it to you or you must go to him, bring him to where
you were standing when the ball was thrown and gently take it out of
his mouth, repeating the word “Fetch!” As in the other lessons, reward
him with a bite to eat. A little of this play every day will make him
enjoy this pastime and in the end he will become a retriever. He may
also be taught to retrieve from water in the same manner, although at
first the ball should be thrown into the water only far enough so that
the puppy need but get his feet wet in retrieving it. It may be thrown
out farther and farther as the pupil progresses and in the end he will
enjoy this as much as land retrieving, especially if he is a dog of the
spaniel varieties. Airedales are also easily taught to become perfect
retrievers.
Another lesson which all dogs should learn is to remain at heel. First
it is necessary to teach them to lead. Put a collar on the puppy and
allow it to remain a day or two before going further. When he is
accustomed to this, attach the lead and call him to you. He will likely
pull back or buck jump a few times; keep a tight line and allow him to
go as far as he likes. When he becomes passive, call him to you and
draw in the lead. He may pull back or he may be frightened, but pull
him to you and then pet him and reward him with a bit to eat. He will
soon learn to lead.
After he once leads well then take him out with you on the street or in
the park. If he pulls ahead of you draw him back and give the command
“Heel!” He may remain behind for a moment, but dart ahead again in
a moment when he thinks you off guard. Check him up and put him back
of you once more with the same command to “Heel!” If he goes along in
this manner, fairly well after a few lessons, you have accomplished
the first step. Later it may be necessary to carry a light switch
which should be used on every occasion when the dog attempts to forge
ahead. Only a light tap on the nose is necessary, but as it is given
the command to heel should also be uttered. In a short time the dog
should be taken out without the cord and kept at heel, but if he
becomes unruly and does not remain in his position the lead should be
immediately snapped into the ring of the collar and he should be given
a few more lessons of the earlier kind. Eventually he will understand
that he must remain behind his master until the command is given to
“Go!” or “Hie on!” and this latter command he will obey without much
teaching, for it is the natural inclination of all dogs to run on ahead
of their masters, and they will be prompt to take advantage of the
permission to do so.
For fuller lessons on breaking, I would suggest that the reader procure
a copy of my former book, “The Working Dog and His Education.”
CHAPTER VI. _The Food Question--When to Feed--Frequency of
Feeding--Water._
With but one dog in the household or on the premises, the question
of food is not a serious one. The scraps from the table of a family
of four should be sufficient to supply the entire ration of the dog,
although occasionally it is advisable to give him a change in the
way of scraps of raw beef, large, soft bones to gnaw upon, and by
variety it might also be well, say once a week, to procure the meat or
trimmings at your butcher’s out of which a broth may be made. This is
always a wholesome diet, especially if it is poured over stale bread,
dog biscuits or any of the bread stuffs that cannot be used on the
table.
First of all let me disabuse the reader of the old theory that meat is
injurious for the dog. Taking the race as a whole, meat should form
the principal diet. The dog is a naturally carnivorous animal and even
though he has been under domestication for thousands of years his
organs of mastication and digestion have undergone only a very slight,
if indeed, any change. With this in mind, the dog owner is enabled to
feed intelligently. Naturally, change of environment from his wild
state has made conditions different; he does not obtain the amount of
exercise that his wild ancestors did, ranging and roaming about the
country in search of their daily sustenance, consequently he cannot
be fed entirely the same, but nevertheless the idea which through
some unknown way became prevalent years ago that meat is injurious to
dogs and likely to cause disease is entirely erroneous. The principal
point to keep before one is the quantity of food and the frequency
of feeding. A dog which obtains considerable exercise in the way of
hunting, must have more meat than one that is exercised only an hour
or two each day. This is but natural; the man whose profession keeps
him indoors does not require the same substantial food of the one
who labors in the fields all day, and so it is with the dog. Ordinary
intelligence should teach proper discretion in this respect.
Table scraps usually consist of all the necessary concomitants to a
good ration. Bits of meat, bread crusts, gravies, vegetables, etc.,
all go to make up the waste from the table in any ordinary family.
Bones, if they are large ones, may be fed, but bones from fish, poultry
or small game should be eliminated if for no other reason but the
possibility of their causing trouble in the intestinal canal. If one
does not believe what trouble this may produce let him take the leg
bone of a chicken or lamb, place them on a stone and strike them a
sharp blow with a hammer. He will see at once that they are crushed
into a hundred tiny splinters. One can readily imagine what havoc this
may do if they should lodge in the stomach or intestines of a dog.
Perhaps one might feed these bones to a dog throughout his entire life
without ill results, but on the other hand, trouble might ensue, hence
to be on the safe side, it is better to take no chances.
Vegetables make a good bulk food, but they should be fed very
sparingly, and then only in connection with the other food. There is
little nutriment in vegetables for a dog; potatoes are of no value
and are more harmful than beneficial and the idea that dogs must be
fed garlic, tomatoes, onions and the like has been exploded long ago.
A very little of these in the regular food is passable, but do not
attempt to make a vegetarian of your dog. Corn meal, in its place, is
well enough fed occasionally, but as a regular food it is harmful,
especially in summer, as it causes skin irritations, because it is too
heating. Oat meal is some better, and rice, perhaps, the best of all,
but any of these foods should be fed only occasionally. Some breeds,
such as Yorkshire terriers, Maltese and the like do very well with
little meat and some say they should not have it at all, but even this
is questionable.
In large kennels it is well to cook one’s own food or make a bread
composed of unbolted wheat, a little rice, meat and a few well cooked
vegetables, the whole to be thoroughly cooked and then baked into a
bread in a slow oven which will cook it through and through so that
it will keep for a long time, but the owner of one dog may as well
dismiss this as unnecessary. To summarize: feed what the family table
offers, procure meat from your butcher occasionally, for the broth
and bones previously referred to, and do not overlook the raw meat,
which should be shredded or chopped finely and fed three or four times
a week in small quantities, for young dogs, but in larger portions
for grown ones. It is also well to obtain large bones with the meat
still clinging to them. Dogs love to tear the meat from the bones
and they also obtain considerable satisfaction in gnawing the bones.
Even puppies three months old and under may be fed raw meat in small
quantities to good advantage, and from personal experience I have
found that puppies thus fed will thrive better than those who obtain
little or none of this kind of diet.
For very young puppies the natural diet is milk, hence when you obtain
your new dog, assuming that he is three months old or under, see that
he obtains an abundance of this, but do not compel him to live on a
milk and bread diet entirely. Feed him a dish of this in the morning;
and it might be well to give him another small feed of this about ten
o’clock, then again at two and so on, until he is fed about five times
during the day, but some of the meals should consist of broth and
cooked meat, with an occasional feed of raw flesh. Puppies, as they
grow older, should be fed less often, and at four months, three meals
a day are sufficient. At this stage, the first meal in the morning
may consist of milk and stale bread, but the following ones may be of
table scraps or the broth made from the meat obtained from the butcher,
poured over stale bread of biscuits, giving with the liquid also a
sufficient quantity of the meat. At a year old the dog may be fed as
any older dog is fed.
The question of frequency of feeding matured dogs has been much
discussed. Many kennels feed but once daily and that meal is given in
the evening. This should consist of as much in quantity as the dog will
eat. The more humane method for grown dogs, however, is to feed a light
meal in the morning and the heavy one in the evening. Most dogs thrive
well on this, provided they obtain a sufficient amount of meat to keep
their natural desire for flesh food satisfied. The dog owner will soon
learn how to use discretion in feeding and obtain best results, but
those who wish to go further into this food question are cited to my
previous book, “Practical Dog Keeping For the Amateur.”
As to water, it must be borne in mind that the dog requires water at
all times of the day or night and a vessel containing pure, fresh water
should always be accessible.
CHAPTER VII _Exercise--Grooming--Washing._
While we all recognize the importance of good food as being conducive
to a dog’s well being, many overlook the fact that exercise, grooming
and washing are almost equally essential. This is particularly true of
exercise. No matter how well a dog is fed, no matter what his care may
be otherwise, he will become sluggish and out of sorts if he is unable
to obtain a sufficient amount of daily exercise and the more that falls
to his lot, the less liable is he to disease, for it is a well-known
fact among human beings that exercise is one of the essentials of life
and by the same token this is so of the dog. Without exercise the
animal will not assimilate his food and while the digestive organs
will perform their functions for a long time, eventually they will do
so under protest, for the food taken into the system is not properly
oxidized, drainage is impeded and the general sewerage system becomes
faulty. No drugs will regulate this condition of affairs effectively
and in time the result of this sedentary life begins to show in the
dog’s eyes, his coat, and even his nerves. Mange and various eczematous
diseases are also likely to appear, and many other disorders are likely
to follow. Consequently, if one takes upon himself the responsibility
of keeping a dog he must see to his exercise as religiously as he does
to his food.
The question may be asked, how much exercise must a dog have in order
to keep him in good condition? To this no defined rule can be laid
down, for dogs, like humans, vary and one must be governed accordingly.
Most young puppies, because of their natural exuberance of spirits,
generally move about sufficiently of their own volition, and thus
keep in good condition by this very natural process, but as the dog
grows older he is not so prone to run and play, and therefore must be
encouraged. This exercise, it is scarcely necessary to say, should
be given in the open. If the owner of a dog has a back yard where the
dog may run and play out in the air and the sunshine, the question
of exercise is not a serious one, but people who live in restricted
quarters will find it more of a problem.
If one has access to a vacant lot, a common, a park, or other open
space where he may allow his dogs to run unmolested, always provided he
is at hand to watch them, then the question settles itself, but where
this is not possible there is only one other way and that is to take
the dog out on lead, walking him from one to three hours, according to
the breed and the requirements of the individual, for as previously
stated, some dogs require more exercise than others. It should not be
forgotten that a dog running at large covers five or six times the
amount of ground that he could possibly cover while on lead, and this
must be taken into consideration. Naturally this requires time, but one
may always find a spare hour or two mornings and evenings that may be
utilized in this manner, and thus owner as well as dog obtains good,
healthful recreation.
Another good way to exercise dogs in summer is to take them to a pond
or river where they may swim about in the water, for nothing brings
all the muscles into play better than swimming. Nearly all dogs can
be taught to take to water, and some of the breeds as for instance
Airedales, the spaniel varieties, and also pointers and setters, dearly
love this diversion. After disporting in the water for an hour or so,
if a plot of grass can be found nearby where the dogs can roll and dry
themselves, it will not only add to the enjoyment of master and dog,
but will tend to keep the animals’ coats clean.
Another point that should be borne in mind is, all dogs should be
allowed to exercise in a manner that is compatible with their natural
habits. For instance, a beagle should be taken to the open and allowed
to hunt rabbits, a bird dog should be turned loose in the open fields
and terriers of every description should be given the opportunity to
dig for rats, mice or other “varmints.” If this cannot be done every
day, the dogs should be given this opportunity at least once a week,
especially during the season when this is feasible.
Summarizing, the owner must always bear in mind that a certain part
of the day his dog must be allowed the air and the sunshine. Even in
winter when there is little sunshine, or on rainy days, the dog will
enjoy being out and free for a short time.
Grooming is another very important essential to the welfare of the
dog. Every dog, no matter whether he is short or long-coated, should
be brushed at least once daily and by brushing is meant good, vigorous
friction. For the short-haired varieties a short-bristled brush or a
hound glove are the proper implements, and for the long-coated breeds
a brush with stiff bristles from one and one-half to two inches long,
is very useful. After this brushing, rubbing with the hand will put a
polish on the coat that is described by fanciers as “cherry ripe.”
Wire-coated terriers require some special treatment to keep their coats
in show shape, but ordinary brushing daily and plucking of superfluous
hair occasionally, will always tend to keep them presentable for
every-day life. Not only is this daily grooming essential to keep the
dog’s coat free from soil and filth, but it tends to keep the blood in
circulation, and to ward off skin troubles and also parasites, which
despite precautions, will sometimes take up their quarters in the coats
of the most genteel dogs.
During the winter it is seldom necessary to wash a dog provided he is
groomed daily, but in summer, a bath now and then is very beneficial
to most breeds, although owners of some show varieties object to
bathing their dogs on the ground that it softens the coat. However,
the average owner will do his dog little, if any harm, by washing him
once a week during the summer. To wash a medium-sized dog, an ordinary
tub or portable tin bath tub will be found satisfactory. The soap
used should be selected with some care. Those soaps containing a large
percentage of alkali are not advised, nor are the highly scented kinds
desirable. The old-fashioned pure Castile is about as good as any and
nearly all of the higher grades of tar soaps are good. The latter not
only produce profuse lather, but possess excellent cleansing qualities
and their ingredients have a salutary effect on the skin and hair.
There are also a number of good dog soaps on the market, prepared
especially for cleansing and freeing the dog from vermin, both fleas
and lice, should they exist. In the summer nearly all dogs will acquire
a certain amount of fleas and it is well to use either the prepared
dog soaps or some other preparation that will kill the fleas. In this
connection it might be said that a good flea exterminator is any of the
creosote preparations to be used in one in fifty proportions. That is,
to one part of the creosote preparation use fifty parts of lukewarm
water. Saturate the entire coat and every part of the body with this
preparation, but exercise care not to get any of it in the eyes or
mouth. After the dog has been thoroughly saturated in this, he may be
bathed with ordinary soap and water. However, the water should always
be lukewarm, even in the warmest of weather. Not only will the lukewarm
water cleanse more thoroughly, but it will not be so much of a shock as
when cold water is used. For rinsing, clear water, a few degrees cooler
may be used. Be sure to dry thoroughly with towels, but rub the way the
hair lies. After drying with the towels the dog should be well brushed
and if the weather is the least cool he should not be allowed out of
doors for several hours after the bath unless he is kept in action. It
is always well to give the bath several hours after his meals, or just
before them; never directly after eating.
Smooth coated dogs are more easily bathed than the long-haired
varieties, as they can be dried very readily, but with the long-haired
breeds extreme care should be taken in the drying process and the
combing out of the coat. It is scarcely necessary to add that the
inside of the ears should be well dried. In washing a dog, always begin
with the head and work backward. The animal should be stood in the tub
and the water applied with a dipper which should be ready at hand for
the purpose.
For some breeds, such as Maltese and Yorkshire terriers many prefer the
egg shampoo to soap, although Yorkshires may be safely washed with the
suds of the soap, by making a lather and immersing the animal in this.
The formula for the egg shampoo is to break up and lightly beat four
eggs in each pint of water. Naturally, the egg shampoo is beneficial
for any dog no matter what the breed, but it may be readily imagined
how many eggs would be required to shampoo four or five St. Bernards.
In the event that frequent washing causes the hair to become
unnaturally dry, a mixture of glycerine and water, one part in four,
is advisable. This may be applied before the dog is thoroughly dried
and the final hand rubbing will bring all the sheen, life and luster
back to the coat. Some kennel men use cocoa butter in place of the
glycerine. This is applied by dipping a comb into the cocoa butter and
going through the hair with this after the dog has been dried. This
should be followed by vigorous hand rubbing.
Reverting again to fleas, that bane of all dog owners, too much care
cannot be taken to prevent these pests from obtaining the upper
hand. The bedding must be frequently changed and the sleeping places
thoroughly cleansed, but the dog himself must be watched. The creosote
preparations (and there are many of them) are considered the best
exterminators and if used once a week in summer, no dog should harbor
fleas, provided his sleeping quarters are clean. However, some might
object to this preparation on toy dogs and to those the following
is recommended: Carbolic acid, one-half ounce; laudanum, one ounce;
bicarbonate of potassa, one dram; water, one and one-half pints. Pour
a small amount into a hand basin and apply all over the body with a
brush or sponge, rubbing it well into the skin. To those who prefer
a dry form of exterminator, Dalmatian or Persian insect powder is
recommended. The dog should be placed on a newspaper, the powder dusted
well into the coat and allowed to remain for a few minutes, after which
it should be brushed out while the dog remains standing on the paper.
After this process is completed, roll up paper, powder, fleas and all
and burn.
CHAPTER VIII. _If Sickness Comes._
Where but one dog, or even two or three are kept in a home, the danger
of sickness is very small, especially if the behests as laid down in
the preceding chapters are followed. Dogs in the home are not exposed
like those which are kept in a kennel where new ones are constantly
coming in and going out. Nor is the danger of contagious or infectious
disease as great as when the dogs are exhibited at bench shows.
Nevertheless, the highly bred dog is a fine-spun piece of mechanism
and it is therefore best to know what to do as first aid in case
sickness does come. To the novice, however, my advice is, send for the
veterinarian, if a good one lives in your vicinity, as soon as you
notice something seriously wrong with your dog. If no qualified canine
practitioner is available, then seek the advice of some dog expert,
but do not resort to all manner of dosing for dosing’s sake, as so
many do, for in many cases too much medicine has led to more serious
consequences than the illness itself.
The principal disorders that the one-dog owner is likely to encounter,
are probably distemper, worms, skin diseases, fits and other various
temporary stomach and intestinal ailments, most of which right
themselves by the administration of a dose of castor oil or some other
purgative.
Very frequently a dog will go off form due to overeating or perhaps
because of devouring something that was harmful, or possibly because of
lack of exercise. In most cases this is only temporary and the animal
will doctor himself, provided he has access to grass. Do not be alarmed
if your dog eats grass upon occasion, even though he partakes of it
copiously. He is simply finding in this green element a nature remedy
that will act as a conditioner. Fortunate is the canine that has the
opportunity to do this, for he is thus finding a home remedy which is
perhaps more effective than the most skilled veterinarian might be
able to prescribe.
Sometimes old dogs suffer from constipation and it is well,
occasionally, to put a little olive oil in their food, or even resort
to a purgative. One of the best ever-ready remedies I know of is equal
parts olive oil, cascara sagrada and castor oil. This may be mixed
up and kept on hand indefinitely as there is nothing in it that will
spoil. If your dog should go off his feed without showing any symptoms
of something more serious coming on, give him, if he is a dog of from
thirty to forty-five pounds, a tablespoonful of this night and morning
for four or five days, and he will soon come back to his natural form.
For smaller or larger dogs the dosage should be graded accordingly.
All dog owners, however, should know when a dog is coming down with
something serious. One of the most dreaded ailments is distemper, a
contagious disease which may be communicated either by direct contact
with a dog which has distemper, by being put in a place that was
recently occupied by a distempered animal, or by associating with a
dog which might be himself immune, but which had recently come from a
place where he was exposed. In this manner such a dog is able to carry
the disease even to some distant locality. Thus many dogs have been
subjected to disease through their companions which were exhibited at
bench shows, and which, though immune themselves, carried it home to
their kennel companions.
First of all it should be said that the normal temperature of the
dog is from 100 to 100-1/2 degrees when taken under the forearm or
inside of the thigh. Taken per rectum it is one degree higher. This
temperature may vary some in the larger and the smaller breeds, but it
is the general average. If the dog appears listless, apathetic, refuses
to eat and possibly begins to sneeze or water at the eyes, if his
temperature has gone three or four degrees above normal, then it may be
taken for granted that he is in the first stages of distemper. On the
other hand, he may only show the dullness and the high temperature;
there may be no discharge from the eyes or nose, but a dry, husky
tell-tale cough may be noted. Any of these forms are the symptoms of
distemper and the victim should be isolated at once and the first act
should be to administer a liberal dose of castor oil. At this stage
I have found it very efficacious to give quinine and hyposulphite of
soda, each in two-grain doses, either together or one following the
other within half an hour, four times a day. The dog must be placed in
a warm and dry room and should not be allowed to go out for anything.
The room should be kept at a temperature of seventy degrees, but must
be ventilated by windows opening from above so that there can be no
draughts with which the victim will come in contact. The disinfectant
used should also be some dry form, such as the various sanitary
sawdust preparations that are on the market. Any dampness in the
room is detrimental to the patient. The principal thing to remember
in distemper is good care, for it will be found more effective than
medicine, whether given in serum form or by mouth. The dog’s strength
must be kept up and to this end eggs, broth, and even finely chopped up
raw beef in small quantities will be beneficial. Some kennel men object
to the beef, but nevertheless many a dog will eat this where he refuses
everything else and certainly nothing is more nutritious than beef.
Every symptom must be combated as it arises and many complications are
likely to set in. One thing must always be kept in mind, and that is,
to make the dog take nourishment, for once he refuses to eat, then the
case is practically hopeless.
Those who prefer the serum treatment should begin giving it, as per
directions, subcutaneously, with hypodermic syringe. There are several
good serums or vaccines on the market, but the one that I have had the
most experience with is that put up by a Detroit laboratory. This firm
makes not only a curative vaccine, but one known as a preventative.
It is useless to give the prophylactic or preventative after the dog
has once been exposed. Rather await the earliest developments and then
begin with the curative and give the six doses as per direction. Begin
with bulb number one and follow up at the intervals indicated until all
have been given. In the meantime, however, exercise the usual care in
the way of even temperature in the place where the patient is confined
and in the matter of diet. This is imperative, no matter what treatment
is being used. The prophylactic or curative treatment consists of three
doses. It is also given with hypodermic syringe, subcutaneously. It is
well to keep this serum on hand to use if one expects to show his dog
or run him in field trials, but the treatment should be given at least
a month before the time he is to appear in public. The success of this
serum treatment seems to be general, although many breeders have no
faith in it. This may be due to the fact that they begin too late or
failed to follow instructions. The treatment is supposed to combat all
symptoms that arise in the most virulent cases of distemper.
The worst complication of all distempers is that affecting the nervous
system; the brain and its membrane may become inflamed and fits follow,
or the spinal cord and its membranes are attacked, in which event
paralysis or chorea, or sometimes both occur. These can be overcome,
but it is a long drawn out and a very uncertain thing. Generally,
chorea occurs after the virulent phase of the disease is passed and it
is mostly due to too early exposure. The patient should not be allowed
to go out of doors or get excited in any way until the temperature has
been normal for at least ten days.
Common sense and good nursing win out more times than all the medicine,
but the complications as they arise must be combated. For instance,
the eyes must be looked after. The discharge should be washed away
frequently during the day with a warm boracic acid solution by
dissolving one teaspoonful of the boracic acid in half a pint of warm
water. The following lotion should be used afterward as it will help
keep the eyes clear:
Chinosol 3 grains
Water 6 ounces
As the dog recovers from the distemper and the eyes have that opaque
appearance so often noted, use an ointment made of 1 grain yellow
oxide of mercury mixed with one dram of vaseline. Drop a bit about the
size of a pea into the corner and rub well under the lids. Sometimes
red pustules will appear all over the underbody and occasionally on
all parts of the body. This should be treated with the ordinary mange
remedies. At other times the disease attacks the bowels, which must
then be looked after. Try bismuth in ten grain doses for medium-sized
dogs. If this does not stop the diarrhea, then the following mixture
might be effective:
Powdered Extract of Kino 1 dram
Powdered Ipecacuanha 8 grains
Powdered Opium 6 grains
Mix and divide into twelve pills.
Dose, from one-half to two pills, according to the size of the dog,
four times a day. After the acute stage is passed, then a good tonic
is desirable and for this purpose either Le Roy’s Condition Pills,
Sergeant’s or Glover’s are useful.
Another serious complication that frequently arrives is when it attacks
the lungs, and this is not at all uncommon; pneumonia being one of
the situations to guard against. Where there is a sudden rise in
temperature and the dog is inclined to sit on his haunches, bracing
himself on his forelegs, which are spread far apart, and his breathing
comes fast and sharp, it may be taken for granted that pneumonia is
the cause. By placing the ear to the chest one can hear the labored
breathing which sounds very much like someone walking over frozen snow.
If the dog is not already wearing a chest jacket make one for him
at once. Sometimes strong liniments are effective. But one of the
simplest things to use is hot lard and turpentine. Grease the chest
well with this, wrap flannels around him and put the jacket over all.
Apply fresh turpentine and lard every two hours, until the breathing is
easier. The following is a very good formula to use internally:
Extract of Belladonna 1/2 grain
James’ Powder 4 grains
Nitrate of Potash 8 grains
Extract of Gentian, enough to make one pill
For medium-sized dogs make up twelve pills with the above ingredients
and give 1 three times daily. If the fever does not subside readily
it might be well to give them drops of aconite in a tablespoonful
of water, every three hours. Perpetual vigilance is necessary in
the successful combating of pneumonia and as in every other phase
of distemper, care and good nursing are most important. For a more
extended treatise on distemper, “Dogcraft,” third edition, will be of
great benefit to all dog owners.
Few dogs go through life without having _Worms_ at some time in their
career and in the case of puppies, we doubt if any ever escape these
intestinal pests. Usually the kennel owner or dealer, worms the puppies
before he sells them, hence the future owner has little to fear,
although it must not be supposed that when a vermifuge is given to a
puppy once or even two or three times during his young life, that he
will be forever free from worms. On the other hand, he is likely to
have them at any time, though the danger of fatal results is far less.
There are numerous remedies that may be used very effectively for the
various kinds of worms, such as areca nut, santonin, pink and senna,
kamala, etc., but I believe the safest plan for the novice is to
procure any one of the reliable proprietary remedies that are on the
market, for it will be less trouble to give these and there is little
danger of going wrong, which might be the case were the neophyte to
dabble with unknown drugs.
For _Tape Worm_--and many more dogs suffer from this than one might
suppose--kamala and areca nut in equal parts is very effective. That
is, for large dogs give two grains (one grain of each drug) to the
pound weight of the dog after fasting twenty-four to thirty-six hours.
One hour after giving the vermifuge the dog should have a liberal dose
of castor oil. The symptoms of tape worm are varied. The dog may have
a capricious appetite, his coat becomes harsh and stary, he looks thin
and emaciated and he has a habit of rubbing his sides and back up along
fences or buildings. His breath is usually offensive and his eyes lack
luster and frequently form pus in the corners.
In the South the _Hook Worm_ is the bane of all dog owners and it is
becoming more prevalent every year. Indeed, of late years it has been
invading the North also, which is probably due to field trials and
bench shows, as dogs from the North are taken South where they become
infested and thus bring the pests back to their homes. Recently a very
good specific for hook worms has been discovered and from all accounts
it is giving excellent results. The drug is carbon tetrachloride.
The dose is one drop for each pound weight of the dog after fasting
twenty-four hours. The drug should be placed in hard capsules and
administered in that manner. It is not necessary to follow with a
purgative as is the case with most other vermifuges. This new remedy
has been given to very young puppies with the best results. It should
always be remembered, however, that the dosage should be one drop to
the pound weight of the dog, no matter how large or how small he is.
A dog affected with hook worms usually grows very thin, is dull and
apathetic, his coat is harsh and unnatural, his eyes lack fire and
he has little or no ambition, but the greatest tell-tale sign of all
is his gums and the mucous membrane of his eyes. Instead of being a
healthy pink, they become white and waxy. When the gums and mouth are
in this condition, then it is time to begin treatment for hook worms.
One of the common disturbances that house dogs are subject to is
_Fits_. It is rather disheartening to the novice to see his dog roll
over suddenly and become stiff and rigid, for in most cases he is at
a loss what to do. Fits arise from various causes; through worms,
constitutional nervous disorders, the aftermath of distemper, but in
most cases with house dogs, because of constipation or indigestion. If
the trouble is due to the two latter causes, then they may be easily
overcome by a change of diet and more exercise, for there is where
the trouble generally lies. The dog is fed heartily, frequently of
indigestible food, he obtains little or no exercise and the inevitable
result is a disarrangement of bowels, stomach or liver. If the fits
are the aftermath of distemper, the dog may outgrow them, but if they
are constitutional, then little or nothing can be done. However, it is
fits of the first order--that is, due to derangement of the digestive
organs--which are the commonest among house dogs. The victim may
suddenly fall over, or he may remain on his feet, and if he does, the
toe nails will dig into the rug or carpet in a way that once seen will
always be recognized. These seizures are generally easily overcome by
applying warm applications to the abdomen, or hand massage. The victim,
however, should be given a purgative once a day for several days, and
if there is reason to suspect worms, a vermifuge is not out of order.
Exercise him in the open every day, but do not overdo this at first. In
severe cases an enema may be given once daily, for three days following
the attack, in place of giving the castor oil.
The more alarming cases of fits are seizures which attack highly-strung
young dogs of an extremely nervous temperament. These fits usually
attack the animal when he is out at exercise and they cause such
violent contortions that many an ignorant person might suppose the dog
to be mad. A dog suffering in this way, may be going along nicely when
suddenly he will utter a distressing cry, stagger a few times and fall
down in convulsions. While in this condition he will snap wildly at
anyone or anything near him. Unless secured his next proceeding is to
get up and run; he seems to be wholly deaf to the voice of his master
and does not even recognize him. Sometimes, after recovering from the
attack, he will be unable to distinguish his master for several hours.
The owner of a dog subject to such fits should take prompt measures
to secure him while he is in one of these paroxysms, or he will run
amuck when he arises and there will be difficulty in catching him. It
is such dogs which frequently cause the reports of mad dogs being in a
neighborhood and many a poor innocent victim is dispatched, an innocent
sacrifice, immolated on the altar of ignorance. Naturally, the owner
of the dog is not likely to have medicines near at hand when his dog
is thus attacked, and in such a contingency, the best thing to do is
to dash cold water on his head and in his face, continuing this for
several minutes. Get the dog home as soon as possible, then administer
a dose of castor oil, or the preparation recommended for constipation,
namely, equal parts olive oil, castor oil and cascara sagrada. After
this, begin a course of bromide; the dosage being from two to fifteen
grains according to the size of the animal, to be given twice daily.
The food should be nourishing, but not too stimulating, and in small
quantities at a time; it is well to feed three times daily, each meal
to be about one-half an ordinary one. Remove all causes of nervous
excitement and build up the dog by common-sense treatment.
_Rabies_ is not common, but nevertheless it is a real affliction of the
canine race, consequently if your dog has been bitten by a supposedly
rabid dog it is well to keep him isolated to watch results. Rabies may
appear at any time from eight days to three months after being bitten
by a mad dog, hence great care is essential. The disease can only be
communicated through a bite or where the saliva of a rabid dog comes
in contact with an abrasion of the skin. The owner of a single dog
who never allows his animal to run at large except when he is present
is not likely to ever encounter rabies, but it is well to know the
symptoms in case such a contingency does occur. Not all dogs bitten by
a dog known to suffer from rabies is likely to contract the disease,
hence one must not become hysterical at once and destroy the animal so
exposed. Rather isolate him and watch developments. The disease, as is
well known, is communicable to all animals, even to the human species,
but with the latter the percentage is very small indeed.
The first symptoms are a rise in temperature from two to three degrees
above normal. The dog will constantly lick himself at some particular
spot which is probably the place where he was bitten and inoculated.
The disposition of the victim undergoes an entire change. The cheerful
one becomes morose and sullen, the quiet one is restless, and the
ordinarily good-tempered dog quarrelsome and inclined to hide in dark
corners, although when called will generally come to his master and
probably be very affectionate. Frothing of the mouth, as generally
supposed, is not a symptom of the rabid dog. The mouth may be more
moist than normal at first, but it soon becomes dry and of a very
dark red color. The rabid dog is very much inclined to attack others;
the timid pet without provocation will attack others much larger than
himself and after biting his victim will emit a peculiar howl, which
when once heard will never be mistaken. The rabid dog’s voice undergoes
an entire alteration which is one of the decided characteristics of the
disease. It begins with a peculiar sharp bark and ends with a dismal
howl. If the animal obtains his liberty he will wander for miles on a
kind of dog trot, with head and tail lowered, going out of his way to
attack dogs and other animals, but usually remaining away from human
beings, unless they interfere with him. In a day or two he will return
to his home. He will refuse any kind of food, but he will gnaw at
sticks, stones, timber or anything that may be near him. He will drink
water until his throat becomes so swollen that it is impossible for
him to swallow, but even then he will attempt to drink by putting his
nose in a pail or basin of water. He becomes weaker rapidly and if not
killed, will die in four or five days.
In _Dumb Rabies_ the lower jaw is dropped and the dog is unable to
close his mouth. It is not often that a rabid dog will attack his
master, but he will fly at a stranger without provocation. There is no
cure for either form of rabies and as soon as one is convinced that the
dog is suffering with the disease he should be put out of his misery by
a painless death.
As I have said, rabies is very uncommon and many kennel men have gone
through life without ever having seen a case, though it is the height
of folly to dismiss the subject on this account and proclaim there is
no such disease. It is very real and should be guarded against. There
are many cases of pseudo rabies that one hears about through the daily
newspapers which are merely the creations of some fanatic or ignorant
persons who would not recognize the true from the false if they saw
them.
_Skin Troubles_ such as the various forms of mange and eczema are
likely to occur occasionally though the owner of one or two dogs need
not worry about this if he grooms his dogs and cares for them as
indicated in the chapters of this book. A very good ointment to have on
hand in case of skin trouble is the following:
Flowers of sulphur 4 ounces
Oil of tar 2 ounces
Carbolic acid 2 drams
Add this to twelve ounces of linseed oil and stir well in order to
thoroughly mix the ingredients. Apply to affected parts or abrasions
of the skin. It is scarcely necessary to say that when this ointment
is applied to the dog’s coat he must be forbidden to house unless one
wishes to have his rugs, carpets and furniture ruined.
_Poisoning_ is one of the banes of a dog owner’s existence, for one is
likely to encounter the poison fiend anywhere at any time. However,
there are also many cases of accidental poisoning. Whether accidental
or otherwise, the majority of cases occur through arsenic, strychnine
or powdered glass.
From the symptoms displayed one can usually determine the kind of
poison used. Strychnine causes pain, twitching, possibly vomiting and
purging. In fatal cases, convulsions with prolonged spasms of the
muscles, with more or less frequent relaxation. This continues until
death ends the struggle.
Arsenic causes gastritis and enteritis, hence a burning thirst,
vomiting and purging, the dog usually dying from exhaustion or collapse.
Ground glass poisoning will produce bloody discharges, great pain and
distress and frequently vomiting of blood. There is no relief for the
victim of such an experience and the most humane thing to do is to put
the dog to death promptly by administering chloroform.
In the treatment of arsenical and strychnine poisoning, the primary
object should be to get the poison out of the system as soon as
possible. To this end emetics should be administered promptly, unless
the animal is already vomiting freely. As an emetic, fifteen to twenty
grains of sulphate of zinc in a teaspoonful of wine of ipecac is very
good, but if this is not at hand, anything should be resorted to that
will produce the desired results, such as mustard or baking soda in
lukewarm water. In strychnine poisoning every effort should be made
to neutralize the effect of the poison on the spinal cord. Bromide of
potassium and chloral hydrate are the best. Either may be given to
medium-sized dogs by mouth or rectum in twenty-grain doses. This may
be repeated at short intervals until one dram has been given. In all
cases of poisoning except phosphorus, which is very rare, oil may be
given, also calcined magnesia or lime water, as they are harmless and
protect the stomach mechanically. Other simple things, such as white
of eggs, flour, etc., may be used with good effect. For arsenical
poisoning the best antidote is hydrated oxide of iron. This can be
prepared quickly by adding baking soda to tincture of iron so long as
there is any effervescence. When the neutral point has been reached, it
may be given freely in teaspoonful doses, every ten minutes.
* * * * *
DOGCRAFT
By A. F. HOCHWALT
Third Edition--Revised and Enlarged
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Training and Kennel Management
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Transcriber’s Notes:
Illustrations have been moved to paragraph breaks near where they are
mentioned.
Punctuation has been made consistent.
Variations in spelling and hyphenation were retained as they appear in
the original publication, except that obvious typographical errors have
been corrected.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOGS AS HOME COMPANIONS ***
Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will
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