The Project Gutenberg eBook, Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916,
by Various, Edited by A. W. Latham
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Title: Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916
Embracing the Transactions of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society,Volume 44, from December 1, 1915, to December 1, 1916, Including the Twelve Numbers of "The Minnesota Horticulturist" for 1916
Author: Various
Editor: A. W. Latham
Release Date: April 15, 2006 [eBook #18183]
Language: English
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TREES, FRUITS AND FLOWERS OF MINNESOTA
1916
[Illustration: MONUMENT ERECTED IN LOBBY OF WEST HOTEL,
MINNEAPOLIS,
Place of annual meeting of the society, December 7 to 10. Height of
monument, 10 feet. Number of bushels of apples used, twenty-five.
Enlarged seal of the society on its front.]
Embracing the Transactions of the
Minnesota State Horticultural Society
from December 1, 1915, to December 1, 1916, Including the Twelve Numbers
of "The Minnesota Horticulturist" for 1916.
Edited By The Secretary,
A. W. LATHAM,
Office and Library, 207 Kasota Block,
Minneapolis, Minn.
Vol. XLIV.
[Illustration: MINNESOTA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY "PERSEVERANTIA
VINCIMUS" ORGANIZED 1866.]
Minneapolis
Harrison & Smith Co., Printers
1916
While it is not the intention to publish anything in this
magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be
remembered that the articles published herein recite the
experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must
always be noted in estimating their practical value.
THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST
Vol. 44 JANUARY, 1916 No. 1
President's Greeting, Annual Meeting, 1915.
THOS. E. CASHMAN, PRESIDENT.
This is the forty-ninth annual meeting of the Minnesota State
Horticultural Society. Nearly half a century has elapsed since that
little band of pioneers met in Rochester and organized that they might
work out a problem that had proven too difficult for any of them to
handle single handed and alone. Those men were all anxious to raise at
least sufficient fruit for themselves and families. They had tried and
failed. They were not willing to give up. They knew they could
accomplish more by interchanging ideas, and, furthermore, if they were
able to learn anything by experience they wanted to pass it on to their
neighbors.
Those men built better than they knew. The foundation was properly laid,
and the structure, while not finished, is an imposing one. A great many
people believe that this structure has been completed, that we have
reached our possibilities in fruit raising. This is only half true. We
are still building on this splendid foundation erected by those few
enthusiasts.
None of those men are left to enjoy the benefits of their labor. The
present generation and the generations to come are and will be the
beneficiaries, and I believe as a tribute to their memory and the good
that they have done that we should fittingly celebrate our fiftieth
anniversary. At this time I can not suggest how this should be done; I
simply make this suggestion in hopes that it may be worked out.
I was in hopes that a home for this society might have been erected this
year or at least made ready for the 1916 meeting. This would surely have
been an occasion worthy of the anniversary which we hope to celebrate.
The building committee appointed by the last meeting went before the
legislature and tried with all the eloquence at their command to make
the members of the legislature see the necessity of appropriating
sufficient money to build a permanent home for this organization. The
members saw the force of our argument, but we could not convince a
majority of the appropriation committee that they should deviate from
their plan of retrenchment which seemed to permeate their every act.
We were disappointed but not disheartened. We were promised better
success in the 1917 session. So we are living in hopes, and I firmly
believe that if our efforts are renewed at that time that this and the
auxiliary societies may have an opportunity of meeting and transacting
business in a home that, while it will belong to the state, will be for
the use of these organizations, and that we may be able to take up our
abode in it not later than the winter meeting of 1917.
Secretary Latham has prepared an excellent program for you. Many friends
of this society are with us again, full of enthusiasm and vigor, and I
know that we will have one of the most successful meetings ever enjoyed
by this organization.
Owing to the fullness of the program, I should consider it an imposition
on my part if I should attempt to make an extended address at this time
and will hasten to call on the gentlemen who are to contribute to the
success of this meeting.
[Illustration: New varieties of strawberries originated at the Minnesota
State Fruit-Breeding Farm.]
Annual Meeting, 1915, Minnesota State Horticultural Society.
A. W. LATHAM, SECRETARY.
Did you attend the 1915 meeting of this association, held in the West
Hotel, Minneapolis, four days, December 7-10 inclusive? Of course as a
member of the society you will get in cold print the substance of the
papers and discussions that were presented at this meeting, but you will
fail altogether in getting the wonderful inspiration that comes from
contact with hundreds of persons deeply interested in the various phases
of horticultural problems that are constantly passing in review during
the succeeding sessions of the meeting. With such a varied program there
is hardly any problem connected with horticulture that is not directly
or indirectly touched upon at our annual gathering, and the present
meeting was no exception to this. In all there were sixty-nine persons
on the program, and with the exception of Prof. Whitten, whom we
expected with us from the Missouri State University, and whom sickness
kept at home, and one other number, every person on the program was on
hand to perform the part assigned to him. Isn't this really a wonderful
thing where so many are concerned, emphasizing as it does the large
interest felt in the work of the society?
The meeting was held in the same room in the West Hotel which was used
for the banquet two years ago. It seats comfortably 250, and was
approximately filled at all of the sessions of the meeting. At the first
session there were in attendance about 200 when the meeting opened at
ten o'clock Tuesday morning. Later in the morning the seats were
practically all filled. Making allowance for the change in the personnel
of those in attendance at the various meetings, it is easily within the
limit to say that between 400 and 500 were in attendance at these
meetings.
Immediately adjoining the audience room on the same floor, and opening
out of the spacious balcony, were the various rooms occupied by the
fruit exhibit and the vegetable exhibit. The plant exhibit was in two
alcoves on this balcony, and the cut flowers were displayed along either
side of the balcony, making altogether a wonderful showing of nature's
floral products. The accommodations for this meeting were almost ideal,
and judging from the expressions of the members we have never been more
happily situated than on this occasion. I have endeavored to draw a
plan of the arrangements at this meeting and submit it to you, not for
criticism, but to assist you in understanding the situation.
We were greatly disappointed that Prof. Whitten was detained at home by
illness, but others from abroad took up the time so that there was
really no interim as a result of his absence. We were fortunate in
having with us the last day and a part of Thursday afternoon Sen. H.M.
Dunlap and Mrs. Dunlap, and their parts on the program were listened to
with intense interest, and I am sure much good was gained for our
membership from the service they rendered the society, which it must be
understood is a gratuitious one--indeed that applies to all of those
whose names appear upon the program. That is one good thing about the
horticulturist, he is willing to tell what he knows for the benefit of
others. To hold any other view than this would be too narrow and selfish
certainly for the true lover of horticulture.
The exhibits were in every case in excess of what we anticipated.
Notwithstanding the light crop of apples in the larger portion of the
state, there was really a fine showing, and quality was very high. Of
boxes of apples there were shown eleven, and of barrels of apples six,
for each one of which exhibits some premium was paid, as besides the
first, second and third premiums in each case there was also a sum to be
divided pro rata. There were twenty-nine pecks of apples exhibited, for
which premiums were also paid in the same way. Four collections of
top-worked apples were on the list. Premiums were awarded to forty
seedling apples, an exceedingly good showing for the season. As to the
number of single plates shown the record is not easily available, but
the accompanying list of awards will give information as far as they are
concerned, there being of course many plates to which no awards were
made.
The vegetable exhibit was an extraordinarily fine one and filled
comfortably the convenient room assigned for its use. It was excellently
managed by Mr. N.H. Reeves, President of the Minneapolis Market
Gardeners' Association.
As to the flower exhibit under the fine management of W.H. Bofferding,
it was so much better than we anticipated that it is hard to find words
suitably to express our thought in regard to it. Besides the splendid
collections of plants and the large display of cut flowers from the
state, there was shown from several eastern parties rare flowers, many
of them new productions, which had a great deal to do with the
beautiful appearance of the balcony, where all of these flowers were
shown.
[Illustration: Sketch showing arrangement of hall and adjacent rooms,
&c., used at 1915 Annual Meeting, in West Hotel, Minneapolis.]
Mention ought to be made of the monument erected in the center of the
lobby on the ground floor of the West Hotel, a structure ten feet high,
containing at its base some dozen or fifteen single layer boxes of
choice apples and on its sides something like twenty bushels of apples
put on in varying shades of red and green with a handsome ornamental
plant crowning the whole. The seal of the society decorated with
national colors appears upon the front. The picture taken of this
monument is shown as a frontispiece of this number. It is incomplete in
that the photographer cut off both ends of it, which is unfortunate in
results obtained. Nevertheless it helped materially to advertise the
meeting and was a distinct ornament in the lobby.
As to subjects in which there was a special interest on our program, the
only one to which I will here refer is that of "marketing," which
received particular attention from a considerable number of those on the
program or taking impromptu parts at the meeting. The Ladies' Federation
assisted us splendidly on the Woman's Auxiliary program, one number,
that by Mrs. Jennison, being beautifully illustrated by lantern slides.
Delegates from abroad as usual and visitors were with us in considerable
number. Prof. F. W. Brodrick came from Winnipeg, representing the
Manitoba Society; Prof. N. E. Hansen, as usual, represented the South
Dakota Society; Mr. Earl Ferris, of Hampton, Ia., the Northeastern Iowa
Society; and Mr. A. N. Greaves, from Sturgeon Bay, Wis., the Wisconsin
Society. We were especially favored in having with us also on this
occasion Mr. N. A. Rasmusson, president of the Wisconsin Horticultural
Society, and Secretary Frederick Cranefield of the same society. If all
the members of that society are as wide awake as these three the
Minnesota Society will have to look to its laurels.
I must not fail to mention Mr. B. G. Street, from Hebron, Ill., who was
present throughout the meeting, an earnest brother, and gave us a
practical talk on "marketing." Our friend, Chas. F. Gardner, of Osage,
Iowa, managed to get here Friday morning after the close of the meeting
of the Iowa Horticultural Society, which he had been attending, and so
spent the last day of the meeting with us. Welcome, Brother Gardner! The
meeting would certainly have been incomplete without the presence of
those old veterans and long time attendants at our annual gatherings,
Geo. J. Kellogg and A. J. Philips, both from the Wisconsin Society. We
need you, dear brothers, and hope you may long foregather with us.
As to that war horse of horticulture, C. S. Harrison, of York, Nebr.,
what would our meeting be without the fireworks in language which he has
provided now for many of these annual occasions. The wonderful life and
sparkle of his message survives with us from year to year, and we look
forward eagerly to his annual coming.
There were three contestants who spoke from the platform in competition
for the prizes offered from the Gideon Memorial Fund as follows:
First Prize--G. A. Nelson, University Farm School, St. Paul.
Second--A. W. Aamodt, University Farm School, St. Paul.
Third--P. L. Keene, University Farm School, St. Paul.
Their addresses were all of a practical character and will appear in our
monthly.
Prof. Richard Wellington conducted a fruit judging contest, in
connection with which there was a large interest, and prizes were
awarded as follows:
D. C. Webster, La Crescent, First $5.00
P. L. Keene, University Farm, St. Paul, Second 3.00
Marshall Hurtig, St. Paul, Third 2.00
At the annual election the old officers whose terms had expired were all
re-elected without opposition, and later the secretary was re-elected by
the executive board for the coming year, so that no change whatever was
made in the management of the society. J. M. Underwood, being absent in
the south, was nevertheless re-elected by the board as its chairman for
the coming year.
A pleasant event of this gathering was the presentation of a handsome
gold watch and chain to the secretary, a memento in connection with the
termination of his twenty-fifth year as secretary of the society, which
expression of appreciation on the part of the members it may well be
believed was fully appreciated by the recipient.
The hall was brilliantly decorated with the national colors, which had
never been used before at any of our annual gatherings. What can be more
beautiful than the stars and stripes entwined with the colors of foliage
and flower. Never has our place of meeting shown so brightly or been
more enjoyed than in this favorable environment.
During the meeting upon the recommendation of the executive board there
were five names by the unanimous vote of the society placed upon the
honorary life membership roll of the society, as follows: John Bisbee,
Madelia; J. R. Cummins, Minneapolis; Chas. Haralson, Excelsior; F. W.
Kimball, Waltham, and S. H. Drum, Owatonna.
The meeting closed with seventy-five members in the hall by actual count
at 4:30, and we certainly hated to say the parting word to those whom we
earnestly hope to gather with again a year hence.
What can we say about the crowning event of our meeting, the annual
banquet? Two hundred and two members sat down together and fraternized
in a most congenial way. Gov. W. S. Hammond was the speaker of the
evening and greatly enjoyed. All the other numbers on the program were
on hand to perform their parts. Here follows the program and you can
judge for yourself. Why don't you come and enjoy this most entertaining
event of the meeting?
PROGRAM.
Prof. N.E. Hansen, Toastmaster.
Grace Rev. J. Kimball, Duluth
Opening Song Trafford N. Jayne,
Minneapolis
Why Wake Up the Dreamers--Aren't They
Getting Their Share? Prof. E. G. Cheyney,
University Farm, St. Paul
Reading Miss Marie Bon, Minneapolis
What Joy in the Garden, Provided E. E. Park, Minneapolis
Every True Horticulturist Has a Private
Rainbow with a Pot of Gold at the End Mrs. T. A. Hoverstad,
Minneapolis
Song s. Grace Updegraff Bergen,
Minneapolis
The Joy of Service Gov. W. S. Hammond
What Care I While I Live in a Garden A. G. Long, Minneapolis
Song Trafford N. Jayne,
Minneapolis
Never Too Late to Mend--Unless You
Are "80," A. J. Philips, West Salem, Wis.
Reading Miss Marie Bon
Right Living and Happiness--You Can't Have
One Without the Other, T. E. Archer, St. Paul
Closing Song Trafford N. Jayne, Minneapolis
* * * * *
"DON'TS" ISSUED TO PREVENT FOREST FIRES.--1. Don't throw your
match away until you are sure it is out.
2. Don't drop cigarette or cigar butts until the glow is extinguished.
3. Don't knock out your pipe ashes while hot or where they will fall
into dry leaves or other inflammable material.
4. Don't build a camp fire any larger than is absolutely necessary.
5. Don't build a fire against a tree, a log, or a stump, or anywhere but
on bare soil.
6. Don't leave a fire until you are sure it is out; if necessary smother
it with earth or water.
7. Don't burn brush or refuse in or near the woods if there is any
chance that the fire may spread beyond your control, or that the wind
may carry sparks where they would start a new fire.
8. Don't be any more careless with fire in the woods than you are with
fire in your own home.
9. Don't be idle when you discover a fire in the woods; if you can't put
it out yourself, get help. Where a forest guard, ranger or state fire
warden can be reached, call him up on the nearest telephone you can
find.
10. Don't forget that human thoughtlessness and negligence are the
causes of more than half of the forest fires in this country, and that
the smallest spark may start a conflagration that will result in loss of
life and destruction of timber and young growth valuable not only for
lumber but for their influence in helping to prevent flood, erosion, and
drought.--U.S. Dept. Agri., Forest Service.
Award of Premiums, Annual Meeting, 1915, Minnesota State Horticultural
Society.
The list of awards following will give in full detail the awards made in
connection with the fruit exhibit:
VEGETABLES.
Carrots Chas. Krause, Merriam Park Second 2.00
Celeriac " " Third 1.00
Cabbage J. T. Olinger, Hopkins Second 2.00
Carrots " " Third 1.00
Onions (red) " " Second 2.00
Onions (yellow) " " Fourth .50
Celeriac Daniel Gantzer, Merriam Park First 3.50
Lettuce " " Third 1.00
Onions (red) " " Third 1.00
Onions (white) " " Fourth .50
Onions (yellow) " " Second 2.00
Onions (pklg) " " Second 2.00
Beets Karl Kochendorfer, So. Park Third 1.00
Carrots C. E. Warner, Osseo First 3.50
Onions (white) " " First 3.50
Beets Mrs. John Gantzer. St. Paul First 3.50
Cabbages " " Fourth .50
Onions (red) " " First 3.50
Onions (yellow) " " First 3.50
Beets Mrs. Edw. Haeg, Minneapolis Second 2.00
Cabbages " " Third 1.00
Celeriac " " Second 2.00
Carrots Alfred Perkins, St. Paul Fourth .50
Lettuce " " First 3.50
Onions (red) " " Fourth .50
Onions (white) " " First 3.50
Onions (yellow) " " Third 1.00
Onions (white) H. G. Groat, Anoka Second 2.00
Onions (pickling) " " Fourth .50
Beets Chas. Krause, Merriam Park Fourth .50
Cabbages " " First 3.50
Lettuce Mrs. Edw. Haeg, Minneapolis Second 2.00
Onions (white pklg) " " Third 1.00
Onions (white) Aug. Sauter, Excelsior Third 1.00
Globe Onions (red) P. H. Peterson, Atwater First 3.50
Salsify Mrs. John Gantzer, St. Paul First 3.50
Turnips (white) " " First 3.50
Rutabagas " " Fourth .50
Parsley Mrs. Edw. Haeg, Minneapolis Fourth .50
Hubbard Squash " " Third 1.00
Potatoes C. W. Pudham, Osseo Fourth .50
Hubbard Squash " " Fourth .50
Potatoes Frank Dunning, Anoka Second 2.00
Pie Pumpkins " " First 3.50
Hubbard Squash " " Second 2.00
Turnips (white) Alfred Perkins, St. Paul Fourth .50
Potatoes Fred Scherf, Osseo First 3.50
Rutabagas " " First 3.50
Pie Pumpkins " " Fourth .50
Parsley Chas. Krause. Merriam Park Third 1.00
Parsnips " " First 3.50
Salsify Chas. Krause, Merriam Park Second 2.00
Turnips (white) " " Second 2.00
Parsnips J. T. Olinger, Hopkins Third 1.00
Turnips " " Third 1.00
Rutabagas " " Second 2.00
Parsley Daniel Gantzer Second 2.00
Parsnips " " Second 2.00
Pie Pumpkins " " Second 2.00
Parsnips Karl K. Kochendorfer, So. Park Fourth .50
Potatoes Aug. Bueholz, Osseo Third 1.00
Hubbard Squash " " First 3.50
Rutabagas " " Third 1.00
Parsley Frank L. Gerten, So. St. Paul First 3.50
Pie Pumpkins " " Third 1.00
Radishes " " First 3.50
E. O. BALLARD, Judge.
COLLECTION OF APPLES.
Collection of Apples P. Clausen, Albert Lea $3.30
Collection of Apples Henry Husser, Minneiska 3.78
Collection of Apples D. C. Webster, La Crescent 3.96
Collection of Apples P. H. Perry, Excelsior 2.36
Collection of Apples F. I. Harris. La Crescent 3.48
Collection of Apples W. S. Widmoyer, La Crescent 3.12
SINGLE PLATES OF APPLES.
Yahnke F. I. Harris, La Crescent First $.75
Utter W. S. Widmoyer, La Crescent First .75
N.W. Greening " " First .75
Malinda " " Second .50
Plumb's Cider " " First .75
Patten's Greening F. W. Powers, Minneapolis First .75
Duchess " " First .75
Malinda F. I. Harris, La Crescent Third .25
Peerless " " First .75
Wolf River " " Second .50
Wealthy " " Second .50
Antonovka " " Second .50
Fameuse " " Second .50
Gilbert " " First .75
Duchess P. H. Perry, Excelsior Third .25
Yellow Transparent " " First .75
Tetofsky " " First .75
Charlamoff " " Third .25
Yahnke " " Second .50
Evelyn " " First .75
Lowland Raspberry P. Clausen, Albert Lea Second .50
Hibernal " " First .75
Okabena Francis Willis, Excelsior First .75
Milwaukee " " First .75
Patten's Greening " " Second .50
Longfield " " Second .50
University " " First .75
Longfield P. H. Perry, Excelsior First .75
Fameuse " " Third .25
Hibernal E. W. Mayman, Sauk Rapids Second .50
Wealthy Sil Matzke, So. St. Paul First .75
Peerless " " Second .50
N.W. Greening " " Second .50
McMahon " " First .75
Yellow Transparent Henry Husser Second .50
Fameuse " " First .75
Walbridge " " First .75
McMahon D. C. Webster, La Crescent Third .25
N.W. Greening " " Third .25
Brett " " First .75
Gideon " " First .75
Superb " " First .75
Okabena M. Oleson, Montevideo Second .50
Peerless " " Third .25
Hibernal " " Third .25
Longfield " " Third .25
University " " Second .50
Charlamoff Henry Husser, Minneiska Second .50
McMahon " " Second .50
Wolf River " " First .75
Jewell's Winter " " First .75
Anisim P. Clausen, Albert Lea First .75
Jewell's Winter " " Second .50
Antonovka " " First .75
Iowa Beauty " " First .75
Yahnke " " Third .25
Borovinca " " First .75
Patten's Greening P. H. Peterson, Atwater Third .25
Malinda " " First .75
Okabena " " Third .25
Lord's L. " " First .75
Lowland Raspberry " " First .75
Charlamoff " " First .75
Duchess " " Second .50
Tetofsky W. J. Tingley, Forest Lake Second .50
Wealthy H. B. Hawkes, Excelsior Third .25
Grimes' Golden P. H. Peterson, Atwater First .75
JNO. P. ANDREWS, Judge.
SEEDLING APPLES.
Early Winter--Arnt Johnson, Viroqua, Wis. $1.45
" " --W.S. Widmoyer, La Crescent 2.45
" " --J. Flagstad & Sons, Sacred Heart 2.15
" " --No. 96--Henry Rodenberg, Mindora, Wis. 1.55
" " --No. 32-- " " 1.85
" " --No. 50-- " " 1.55
" " --No. 82-- " " 2.00
" " --No. 52-- " " 2.40
" " --No. 64-- " " 2.20
" " --Dr. O. M. Huestis, Minneapolis 1.55
" " --Jacob Halvorson, Delavan 1.55
" " --No. 102--Henry Rodenberg, Mindora, Wis. 1.15
" " --No. 138-- " " 1.40
" " --No. 137-- " " 2.00
" " --No. 131-- " " 1.70
" " --H. H. Pond, Minneapolis 1.15
" " " 1.30
" " " 1.15
" " " 1.55
" " --Henry Husser, Minneiska 2.10
" " --O. O.--M. Oleson, Montevideo 1.85
" " --O. K.-- " 2.05
" " --G. N.-- " 1.30
" " --G. S.-- " 2.20
" " --E. T.--M. Oleson 1.70
" " --E. A. Gross, La Moille 1.15
" " -- " 1.90
" " -- " 2.25
" " --No. 1--Arnt Johnson, Viroqua, Wis. 1.40
Late Winter--No. 133--Henry Rodenberg, Mindora, Wis. 3.90
" " --No. 134-- " " 2.75
" " --No. 135-- " " 2.55
" " --No. 104-- " " 3.70
" " --No. 49-- " " 3.25
" " --No. 16-- " " 3.80
" " --No. 12-- " " 3.25
" " W. S. Widmoyer, La Crescent 2.30
" " --Chas. Ziseh, Dresbach 2.30
" " --J. A. Howard, Hammond 4.20
" " " 4.15
" " --F. W. Powers, Excelsior 4.00
" " --J. Flagstad & Sons, Sacred Heart 3.25
" " Henry Husser, Minneiska 3.25
" " --No. 23--Henry Rodenberg, Mindora, Wis. 3.35
CLARENCE WEDGE, N. E. HANSEN, Judges.
COLLECTION OF TOP-WORKED APPLES.
Collection of Top-Worked P. H. Peterson, Atwater 4.16
Collection of Top-Worked P. Clausen, Albert Lea 11.45
Collection of Top-Worked Henry Husser, Minneiska 5.23
Collection of Top-Worked W. S. Widmoyer, Dresbach 4.16
DEWAIN COOK, Judge.
PECKS OF APPLES.
N.W. Greenings Aug. Sauter, Excelsior .95
Wealthy H .B. Hawkes, Excelsior 1.10
Wealthy P. H. Peterson, Atwater .90
Fameuse Henry Husser, Minneiska .80
Wolf River " " 1.00
Peerless " " .75
N.W. Greening " " .75
N.W. Greening D. C. Webster, La Crescent 1.10
Wealthy " " .90
Bethel " " 1.00
Scotts' Winter " " 1.00
Wealthy W. P. Burow, La Crescent .85
N.W. Greening " " 1.10
Wealthy E. W. Mayman, Sauk Rapids .80
Hibernal E. W. Mayman, Sauk Rapids .85
Wealthy Francis Willis, Excelsior .90
Duchess " " .55
Okabena " " .55
Milwaukee " " .80
Wealthy P. H. Perry, Excelsior .85
Fameuse " " .80
Seedlings " " .80
Peter " " .85
Wealthy F. I. Harris, La Crescent .85
N.W. Greening " " .95
Seedlings T. E. Perkins, Red Wing .80
N.W. Greenings F. W. Powers, Minneapolis 1.00
Wealthy " " .90
Duchess R. E. Olmstead, Excelsior .55
GEO. W. STRAND, Judge.
BUSHEL BOXES OF APPLES.
Wealthy--H. B. Hawkes, Excelsior 2.31
Wealthy--P. H. Peterson, Atwater 2.17
Wealthy--Henry Husser, Minneiska 2.43
Wealthy--D. C. Webster, La Crescent First 17.72
N.W. Greening--W. P. Burow, La Crescent 2.48
Wealthy--P. H. Perry, Excelsior 1.86
Wealthy--J. F. Bartlett, Excelsior Third 7.57
Wealthy--F. I. Harris, La Crescent Second 12.63
N.W. Greenings--F. W. Powers, Excelsior 1.98
Wealthy--F. W. Powers, Excelsior 2.08
Wealthy--S. H. Drum, Owatonna 1.77
W. G. BRIERLEY, Judge.
BARRELS OF APPLES.
H. B. Hawkes, Excelsior 8.98
Henry Husser, Minneiska 3.52
D. C. Webster, La Crescent First 25.23
W. P. Burow, La Crescent 3.05
Wealthy--P. H. Perry, Excelsior Third 14.37
F. I. Harris, La Crescent Second 19.85
W. G. BRIERLEY, Judge.
COLLECTION GRAPES.
Collection Grapes--Sil Matzke, So. St. Paul First 8.00
GEORGE W. STRAND, Judge.
NUTS.
Walnuts Henry Husser, Minneiska First 1.00
Butternuts " " First 1.00
Hickory Nuts " " Second .75
Hickory Nuts D. C. Webster, La Crescent First 1.00
H. J. LUDLOW, Judge.
PLANTS.
12 Palms Minneapolis Floral Co. First $10.00
12 Ferns " " Third 4.00
12 Blooming Plants " " Third 6.00
12 Ferns Merriam Park Floral Co. First 10.00
12 Blooming Plants " " First 12.00
12 Palms L. S. Donaldson Co., Mpls. Second 7.00
12 Ferns " " Second 7.00
12 Blooming Plants " " Second 9.00
CUT FLOWERS.
25 Carnations (pink) L. S. Donaldson Co., Mpls. Third 1.00
25 Carnations (white) " " Second 2.00
12 Roses (red) Minneapolis Floral Co. Third 1.00
12 Roses (white) " " Third 1.00
12 Roses (yellow) " " First 3.00
12 Roses (red) N. Neilson, Mankato First 3.00
12 Roses (pink) " " First 3.00
12 Roses (white) " " First 3.00
12 Roses (yellow) " " Second 2.00
12 Roses (pink) Hans Rosacker, Minneapolis Second 2.00
12 Roses (red) " " Second 2.00
12 Roses (white) " " Second 2.00
12 Carnations (white) " " First 3.00
12 Carnations (pink) " " Second 2.00
12 Carnations (red) " " First 3.00
25 Carnations (red) Minneapolis Floral Co. Second 2.00
25 Carnations (pink) " " First 3.00
25 Carnations (white) " " Third 1.00
12 Chrysanthemums (yellow) John E. Sten, Red Wing First 4.00
12 Chrysanthemums (any color) " " First 4.00
12 Chrysanthemums (any color) Minneapolis Floral Co. Second 3.00
12 Chrysanthemums (yellow) L. S. Donaldson Co., Mpls. Second 3.00
12 Chrysanthemums (any color) " " Third 2.00
FLOWERS.
Basket for Effect Minneapolis Floral Co. First $10.00
Bridesmaid Bouquet Minneapolis Floral Co. First Diploma
Corsage Bouquet Minneapolis Floral Co. First Diploma
Bridal Bouquet Minneapolis Floral Co. First Diploma
O. J. OLSON, Judge.
Judging Contest of Hennepin County High Schools.
(Held at Annual Meeting, December 9, 1915.)
The contest consisted of the judging of three crops, apples, potatoes
and corn. Two varieties of each crop were used.
Each school was represented by a team of three men. Each man was allowed
100 as perfect score on each crop or a total perfect team score of 900
points.
Two high schools entered the contest, namely Central High, Minneapolis,
and Wayzata High. Central High, of Minneapolis, won first with a total
score of 697.8. Wayzata ranked second with a score of 672.
Minneapolis won on apples and potatoes, Wayzata winning on the corn
judging.
Chester Groves, of Wayzata, was high man of the contest.
County Adviser K. A. Kirkpatrick, gives a banner to the winning school.
Judges of the contest were: Apples, Prof. T. M. McCall, Crookston;
potatoes, Prof. R. Wellington, A. W. Aamodt; corn, Prof. R. L. Mackintosh.
Fruit Judging Contest.
(At Annual Meeting, December, 1915.)
One of the important features of the Wednesday afternoon program of the
State Horticultural Society was the apple judging contest. This contest
was open to all members of the society and students of the Agricultural
College.
The contest consisted of the judging of four plates each of ten standard
varieties. The total score of each contestant was considered by allowing
10 per cent for identification of varieties, 40 per cent for oral
reasons and 50 per cent for correct placings.
The prizes offered were: First, $5.00; second, $3.00; third, $2.00. D.C.
Webster of La Crescent, ranked first; P.L. Keene, University Farm,
second; and Marshall Hertig, third.
Score
First--D. C. Webster 87-1/2
Second--P. L. Keene 81-1/2
Third--Marshall Hertig 77-1/2
Fourth--Timber Lake 76-1/2
There were twelve men in the contest.
Judges: Prof. T. M. McCall, Crookston; Frederick Cranefield, Wisconsin;
Prof. E. C. Magill, Wayzata.
Annual Report, 1915, Collegeville Trial Station.
REV. JOHN B. KATZNER, SUPT.
It is with pleasure and satisfaction that we are able to make a material
correction of our estimate of this year's apple crop as noted in our
midsummer report. We stated that apples would be about 15 per cent of a
normal crop, and now we are happy to say it was fully 30 per cent. We
picked twice as many apples as we anticipated. Considering that, as
Prof. Le Roy Cady informed us, the apple crop would be rather small
farther south and that they would practically get no apples at the State
Farm, we may well be satisfied with our crop. In general, the apple crop
was not so bad farther north as it was farther south in the state. This
may have been due to the blossoms not being so far advanced here when
the frost touched them as farther south.
The best bearing varieties this year were the Wealthy, Charlamoff and
Duchess, in the order named. These three kinds gave us the bulk of the
crop. The Wealthy trees were not overloaded, and the apples were mostly
fine, clean and large. The Charlamoffs were bearing a heavy crop of
beautiful, large-sized apples and were ahead of the Duchess this year.
The Hibernals, too, were fairly good bearers. Most other varieties had
some fruit, but it was not perfect; it showed only too well the effect
of frost. More than half of the blossoms were destroyed. Many flowers
were badly injured and though they were setting fruit the result of
frost showed off plainly on the apples. While some had normal size and
form, many of them were below size, gnarled, cracked or undeveloped and
abnormal. Most all of them had rough blotches or rings about the calix
or around the body. Malformed apples were picked not larger than a crab,
with rough, cracked, leather-like skin, which looked more like a black
walnut than an apple.
Of plums only some young trees gave us a good crop of nice, perfect
fruit. The old trees have seen their best days and will have to give
place to the new kinds as soon as they are tested. We have quite a
variety of the new kinds on trial from the Minnesota State
Fruit-Breeding Farm and wish to say that they are very vigorous growers.
Many of them made a growth of four feet and more. We expect that some
will bear next year and we are only waiting to see what the fruit will
be before making a selection for a new plum orchard. We have already
selected No. 8 for that purpose, as one tree was bearing most beautiful
and excellent plums, of large size and superior quality, this year. They
were one and three-fourths inches long by five and one-half inches in
circumference and weighed two ounces each. They kept more than week
before they got too soft for handling and are better than many a
California plum. It seems to us if a man had ten acres of these plum
trees, he could make a fortune out of them. We will propagate only the
very best kinds for our own use and may have more to say about them
another year.
[Illustration: Cluster of Alpha grapes from Collegeville.]
Two or three of the imported pears bloomed again last spring, but the
frost was too severe and they set no fruit. We have lost all interest in
them and so, too, in our German seedling pears. The latter are now used
as stocks and are being grafted with Chinese and hybrid pears. Of those
already grafted this way some have made a growth of four and five feet.
We have been successful in grafting the six varieties of hybrid pears
obtained last spring from Prof. N.E. Hansen, of Brookings, S. Dak., and
have trees of every variety growing. These, too, are very good growers,
have fine large leaves and are promising. From the manner of growth in
stem and leaf we would judge that at least two distinct Asiatic
varieties have been used in breeding. We have gathered a little grafting
wood and next spring some more German seedlings will lose their tops. It
is only from continued efforts that success may be obtained in growing
pears in Minnesota.
Who would have thought it possible that in spite of all the frost and
cold rains we would get a pretty good crop of cherries? And yet this is
a fact. We have four varieties, and among them is one originated by the
late Clem. Schmidt, of Springfield, Minn., which was bearing a good crop
of very fine cherries while the three other sorts did not do a thing. To
get ahead of the many birds we picked the cherries a few days before
they were ripe and put them up in thirty-two half-gallon jars. As the
cherries become very soft when dead-ripe, it was of advantage to can
them when they were still hard. These canned cherries are meaty and most
delicious. We never tasted any better. It is only a pity that this
seedling cherry is not quite hardy.
As most everywhere in the state, our grapes were a complete failure. The
early growth with its good showing of fruit having been frozen in May,
it was well toward the end of June when the vines had recovered from the
shock and were able to grow vigorously again. There were a few grapes on
some of the vines, but they never got ripe. The Alpha showed the most
fruit, and a few bunches were just about getting ripe when the frost
spoiled them. This May freeze was more severe than we thought it was.
The wood of the old vines was not injured, but the one year old wood of
young plants was killed to the ground. The lesson we learned from this
is very important. It may be stated that vines full of sap and in
growing condition can endure very little cold, but when the wood is ripe
and dormant the vines will seldom be injured by sub-zero weather. This
injury to vines from frost might have been averted at least in part by
precautionary measures. In other countries people start smoldering
fires, making much smoke in the vineyard so that the whole is covered
with a cloud of smoke. This raises the temperature a few degrees and
keeps the frost out. Such preventive means might have been used here
very well to save the grapes, but it was not done.
Our currants were not very good; they ripened unevenly and showed that
they, too, were touched by frost. A few bushes were also attacked by the
currant worm.
We never cultivated any raspberries before. But last year we planted
Raspberry No. 8, sent to us from the Fruit-Breeding Farm. This sort is a
very vigorous grower; some canes grew over six feet high. It fruited
this year; it is very prolific; the fruit is very large and of good
quality. It would be quite satisfactory if it were a little hardier.
Not being protected more than half of the plants were lost last winter.
But the everbearing strawberry No. 1017 received from the Fruit-Breeding
Farm is a complete success. They were properly planted and well taken
care of. All flowers were removed up to July 10th and then left alone.
In early August the first berries were picked, and we kept right on
picking till the frost killed the fruit stalks. The growing of this
strawberry will be continued. A new bed will be planted next spring with
young plants that were not allowed to bear last season. The fruit was
all that could be desired, fine, large and of very good quality. It
seems to be of greater advantage to grow the everbearing than the
June-bearing sorts. The everbearing planted in spring will grow a large
crop in fall and bear again in June next year. From the first we get two
crops in fifteen months, from the second two crops in three years. And
to fruit any sort oftener than two seasons is not considered very
profitable.
Most all trees of apples, pears, plums, evergreens and grafts which were
planted last spring, have done very well, and we don't know of any that
failed to grow. The hybrid plums received last spring are all alive. The
same may be said of the 50 Norway pine obtained from the Minnesota State
Forester, W. F. Cox, not one failing to grow. If evergreens are handled
right in transplanting they are just as sure to grow as any other trees.
This year was especially favorable for transplanting on account of the
many rains and cool weather.
This, too, was the kind of weather which pleased our vegetable gardener.
He found it scarcely ever necessary throughout the season to apply water
to the growing plants for their best development. All grew fine and
large. Cabbage heads were grown that weighed thirty-five pounds;
carrots, onions, beets, lettuce and in fact all the different varieties
were first-class. Yet there was something that did not please the
gardener nor ourselves, namely, the tomatoes did not get ripe. We had a
few early kinds all right, but the bulk, the large, fine varieties, were
hanging on the vines still green when the first heavy frost touched
them. It was too cool for them to ripen. The same may be said of the
melons. Not once did we have melons at table this year. They were too
poor to be served.
Our floral plantings were a great success. The many artistic foliage
designs developed wonderfully and were the admiration of all visitors.
Our peonies were a mass of exceedingly beautiful flowers, filling the
air with fragrance as of roses. We are not surprised that these flowers
have gained so much popularity of late, for their great beauty and ease
of culture recommend them to all lovers of flowers. The dahlias, too,
were very excellent; in fact, we never saw them better. They are quite
ornamental in flower and plant. The newer varieties have exceptionally
large flowers, but the plants do not show off so well and bend down from
the weight of the flowers. For symmetry and uniformity of growth the old
varieties are hard to be excelled. Some of the roses were not so good as
desired, the buds got too much rain at times and rotted away. The mock
oranges, syringas and others were all very good, but the spireas
suffered much when in flower from rains. As a whole, however, our lawns
and grounds were beautiful and satisfactory and the new greenhouse has
done good work.
The growing of fruit this year has been a disappointment to many
horticulturists. Indeed, some got quite a showing of fruit in favored
localities, but the majority got not much of a crop to be proud of.
Well, we cannot regulate the weather conditions, but we are pleased with
the thought that such abnormal conditions are not of frequent occurrence
in Minnesota. Yet there is one redeeming feature of the season and that
is, the wonderful growth of plants and trees which gives promise that
with the usual normal conditions our expectations for a better fruit
crop will be realized.
* * * * *
STORING CABBAGE IN THE FIELD.--In choosing a site for a storage
pit, select a ridge, well drained and as gravelly a soil as possible.
The pit should be 6 to 10 inches deep, the length and width depending
upon the amount to be stored. It is well to have it wide enough to
accommodate 3 to 5 heads on the bottom row.
In harvesting the heads, pull up by the roots. Break off only the dead
or diseased leaves, and fold the remaining leaves over the head as much
as possible to protect them. Overripe or cracked heads should not be
stored. The heads are placed in the pit with their heads down and roots
up. The second layer is also placed heads down between the roots of the
first layer. It is well not to have more than two layers, on account of
the weight having a tendency to crush the lower layer.
When the cabbages are put in place they are covered with a layer of
earth. When cold weather comes, straw or manure can be added.
Cabbages can often be kept better in pits than in common cellars.--E. F.
McKune, Colorado Agricultural College, Fort Collins, Colorado.
Wintering of Bees.
FRANCIS JAGER, APIARIST, UNIVERSITY FARM, ST. PAUL.
The winter losses of bees in Minnesota are great every year. Bee keepers
can reduce these losses by preparing bees for their winter-quarters.
The chief known cause for winter losses are: Queenlessness, smallness of
number of bees in colonies, insufficient food, improper food, dampness,
bad air, the breaking of the clusters, and low temperature.
More colonies die from lack of food and from cold than from all other
causes. In fact, most of the other causes can be traced to lack of food
and cold.
Queenless colonies will certainly die in a few months.
If the number of bees in a colony is small the clusters cannot generate
enough heat or keep it generated and the bees will perish. To avoid
this, small colonies should be united in the fall into one big colony.
Bees must have food in the winter in order to generate heat. About forty
pounds of honey to the colony should be provided when the bees are put
into winter-quarters. Should the colony be short of honey of its own,
finished frames may be supplied early in the fall or sugar syrup may be
fed. Bee keepers should keep about one well filled extracting frame out
of every seven for feeding purposes.
Dark (not amber) honey is poor food for bees in winter. All black honey
should be removed and combs of white honey should be substituted.
Experiments made by Dr. Phillips, in Washington, D. C., have shown that
bees consume least honey and winter best when the temperature inside the
hive is 57 degrees Fahrenheit.
Dampness in a cellar causes the comb and frames of the hive walls and
cover to get damp and mouldy, and the bees perish from wet and cold
after exhausting their vitality in generating heat.
Bees need fresh air. Foul air will cause excitement, causing an
overheated condition; and the bees will scatter and die. Any excitement
among bees in winter is fatal. Cellars on high ground, covered with
straw over timbers, are best for wintering bees.
If the bee cluster divides or splits up during the winter, the smaller
clusters will perish from cold. The present style of Hoffman frames
divides the bee cluster into eleven divisions separated from each other
by a sheet of wax comb, with no direct communication between different
divisions except over, below or around the frames. If the bee cluster
contracts during the winter on account of cold the divisions of the
outside frames are sometimes left behind and die. Some bee keepers
perforate their frames to keep an easy passage for bees from one
compartment to another. If kept warm, even weak colonies may pass over
or around the frames without much difficulty. When cold, only the
strongest will be able to accomplish this difficult task. Wintering
bees in division hives or in two story hives, which give them a
horizontal bee space through the middle between the two divisions, is
highly recommended for successful wintering.
[Illustration: Francis Jager, Professor of Apiculture, University Farm,
St. Paul.]
In long-continued severe cold the bee clusters will contract into a very
small, compact mass. The tendency of this cluster is to move upward
where the air is warmer. If enough honey is stored above them they will
keep in contact with it. If the honey is stored at the side, the bees
sometimes lose their contact with it and die of starvation and cold.
This is another argument in favor of wintering in two story hives. Often
they will move towards one corner and die there, leaving the other
corners filled with honey. If you must winter in one story hives give
bees plenty of honey in the fall and place the cluster at one side of
the hive so that they move necessarily toward the honey supply.
Bees should be kept in a cellar at a temperature of about 45 degrees.
The difference in the temperature between the outside and the inside of
the hive will be between 10 and 15 degrees. Very strong colonies, no
matter where kept, will keep themselves warm and will survive any degree
of cold, but there is no doubt that their vitality and ability to stand
wintering will suffer a great deal thereby, causing dwindling in the
spring. Cellar wintering is at present general in Minnesota. The bee
cellar should be warm, dry, dark and ventilated. The bees should not be
disturbed during their winter sleep by pounding, jarring, shaking and
feeding. Mice also may cause the bees to get excited and perish. A four
to one inch wire screen in front of the entrance will prevent mice from
getting inside.
The fundamental principles to guide the bee keeper in wintering his bees
are: First, strong colonies, at least six frames covered with bees when
clustered; second, ample store, not less than forty pounds of honey; and
third, a hive with not less than 57 degrees inside temperature. This
temperature may be maintained outside in a double walled hive or in a
hive lined with flax or felt, now manufactured for that purpose, or by
packing the hives in leaves, straw or shavings--or by putting them into
a warm cellar.
Bees in our climate should be put into winter quarters about November 15
and should not be put on their summer stands in the spring until soft
maples are in bloom.
By following these suggestions winter losses may be reduced to an
insignificant percentage, and these mostly from accidents and causes
unforseen, for bees respond wonderfully to proper treatment.
The Currant as a Market Garden Product.
B. WALLNER, JR., WEST ST. PAUL.
The currant is essentially a northern fruit, therefore does well in
Minnesota.
I plant my currants on a clay loam as it retains moisture and coolness,
which the currant prefers. Their roots run somewhat shallow, and hence
sandy or friable soils are not desirable. Soils such as will prevent a
stagnant condition during heavy rainfalls are essential. I plant my
currants early in spring as soon as the frost leaves the ground and a
proper preparation can be secured. I plant them five by five feet apart,
as they require a thorough cultivation the first two years from
planting.
I plant mangels between the rows the first year; second year continued
cultivation is practiced; third year I apply a mulch consisting of
mushroom manure to a depth of from four to six inches, which answers a
double purpose, to keep out weeds and to act as mulch at the same time.
During a prolonged dry spell the soil is moist under this covering, and
it makes it more pleasant for the picking, as it prevents the berries
getting soiled after a rain during the picking season. You cannot
fertilize the currant too abundantly, as it is a gross feeder and
requires plenty of manure to get best results, as such fruit commands
the best price on the market.
I planted my currants on ground previously well fertilized with well
decayed barnyard manure.
I prefer strong well rooted two-year-old plants. The long straggling
roots are shortened, and bruised portions cut off with a sharp knife.
The tops are somewhat reduced, depending on the size of plants. I set
them in a furrow, sufficiently deep to admit the roots to spread out in
a natural position, fill in with surface soil and pack around the roots,
so that when the earth is firmly settled the roots will not protrude out
any place.
In regard to pruning I find the best and largest fruit is produced on
canes not over four years old, and if judicious cutting out of the old
canes is followed nice, large, full clusters of fruit of excellent
character will be obtained. This is a fact that I want to emphasize: if
the market is glutted with currants, you can readily dispose of your
product, providing they are qualified as extra large, which results can
be attained by following these rules.
Pertaining to insects and diseases, I spray my currants twice for the
currant worm with arsenate of lead at the rate of two pounds to fifty
gallons of water.
I also use hellebore (dry powdered form), especially valuable in
destroying the worms when berries are almost ready for market, and on
which it is dangerous to use arsenical poisons. I never was troubled
with the currant worm cane borer. I attribute the absence of this
dreaded insect to my keeping all old wood cut out, which is generally
infested with it.
As to varieties I planted the following: Wilder, Victoria, Prince
Albert, Red Cross, Diploma and White Grape. The Wilder is the best
commercial berry, very productive and large, while the Diploma is one of
the largest fruited varieties in existence, its main drawback consisting
of a straggling habit of growth which requires either tying up the
branches or pruning back somewhat short.
The Prince Albert is late and can be recommended for commercial use.
Victoria is a prolific bearer, fair size fruit and requires little
pruning. Red Cross is large fruited, but shy bearer. The White Grape
meets with little demand as a market berry, fine to eat out of hand and
an excellent table berry.
I also planted a few Black Champion; have not grown it long enough to
know definite results.
The demand for black currants is limited, but the prices are fair. As to
picking would say we pick them when not quite ripe, as the average
housewife claims they jell better than when over-ripe. They must be
picked by the stem and not stripped off--all defective, over-ripe and
bruised berries should be eliminated at the picking.
When the box is being filled a few gentle raps should be given to settle
the clusters into place, as they shake down considerably. All the
conveniences and same character of boxes and crates used in handling of
other small fruits are equally adapted to the currant.
* * * * *
WELCOME THE THRUSHES--THESE BIRDS DO THE FARMER LITTLE HARM AND MUCH
GOOD.--That thrushes--the group of birds in which are included
robins and bluebirds--do a great deal of good and very little harm to
agriculture is the conclusion reached by investigators of the United
States Department of Agriculture who have carefully studied the food
habits of these birds. Altogether there are within the limits of the
United States eleven species of thrushes, five of which are commonly
known as robins and bluebirds. The other six include the Townsend
solitaire, the wood, the veery, the gray-cheek, the olive-back, and the
hermit thrushes.--U.S. Dept. of Agri.
Report of Committee on Examination of Minnesota State Fruit-Breeding
Farm for the Year 1915.
DR. O. M. HUESTIS, MINNEAPOLIS; FRANK H. GIBBS, ST. ANTHONY PARK.
On the morning of October 12, 1915, your committee visited the State
Fruit-Breeding Farm, was met at the Zumbra Heights Station, on the M. &
St. Louis R.R., by Superintendent Haralson and were very soon in the
midst of a plat of over 3,000 everbearing strawberry plants all
different--some plants with scores of ripe and green berries as well as
blossoms, others with few berries and many runners. The superintendent
had already made selections and marked some 250 plants for propagation.
In another plat of 1,000 varieties it was very apparent that No. 1017, a
cross between Pan-American and Dunlap, was the superior, although others
were choice, both as plant makers and fruit-bearers. No doubt many
excellent kinds will come from those selected. It certainly was
encouraging to be able, even after the heavy frost of a week before, to
pick three quarts of large, well ripened berries, a photo of which we
obtained on reaching the city and will appear in the Horticulturist.
[Illustration: Field of No. 3 June-bearing strawberries at State
Fruit-Breeding Farm.]
Of the June-bearing varieties No. 3, a cross between Senator Dunlap and
Pocomoke, would seem to surpass anything else we saw as to strength of
plant and health of foliage. As to its fruiting ability, will refer to
the display made at the last summer meeting of the society, which was so
much admired. We have no doubt there is a great future for No. 3, as has
been for its illustrious parent, the Dunlap. Next we went over to the
raspberry field containing, it seemed, thousands of strong, straight,
healthy plants, which would have to be seen to be appreciated and only
then when in fruiting. No. 4 took our special attention. The canes were
especially clean, well branched and healthy--a cross between Loudon and
King. Many others seem to be very promising.
[Illustration: Everbearing strawberries, No. 1017. Minnesota State
Fruit-Breeding Farm. Gathered October 12, 1915.]
Next we were shown a variety of everbearing raspberry from which we
indulged in ripe fruit of good size and flavor and which it is hoped
will be as valuable as the everbearing strawberry. Of the thousands of
everbearing seedlings selections had been made of about 100 which were
fine looking plants, well cultivated and free from disease.
We were then shown some hundreds of wild peach seedlings, seedlings of
Burbank plums, thousands of hybrid plums of all ages, and a plat of
thousands of plum seedlings which will be disposed of to nurserymen this
fall and bring a nice income to the state; also wild pears from
Manchuria with good prospects of being hardy and free from blight.
We saw a number of nice plum trees, of which the superintendent told us
the fruit would color before ripening and would stand long shipments,
which so far promise well. Several hundred Beta grape seedlings probably
even more hardy than the parent, many crosses in roses which if judged
by the foliage must be seen in bloom to be appreciated, seedlings of
Compass cherry crossed with apricot; Compass cherry crossed with
nectarines; seedling currants, over 2,000 from which to select the best.
Over a hundred commercial varieties of apples from East and West, and
over 200 varieties of peaches from China and Manchuria, walnuts,
butternuts and many dwarf apple trees on Paradise stocks, which fruit
early. A good field of corn in shock, for feed for the horses. The old
orchard on the place when bought, which had been top-worked to some
extent, looked healthy everywhere. The farm seemed to be free from
noxious woods, free from pocket gophers or moles and well cultivated, we
thought, for the small number of men employed. Machinery and tools were
well housed. We were also pleased to be shown through the new home of
the superintendent, not yet occupied, which seemed to be complete in all
its appointments.
We think the state has a great asset in the farm and recommend that as
far as possible members of this society visit it during the coming
summer and that the society use its influence with the Board of Regents
that more land be procured as soon as possible in order that trial
plants may remain longer to more definitely prove their worth and that a
greater work may be done for the state. We notice in a report made just
six years before, viz., October 12, 1909, by Brothers Wedge, Underwood
and the then president of the society, Prof. Green, that even runnerless
everbearing strawberries were represented and that they had the usual
pleasure of picking strawberry blossoms in October. Had they been with
us they would have had a large dish of No. 1017 covered with rich cream
and served at the hand of Mrs. Haralson.
Mr. C. S. Harrison: Mr. Chairman, I think the slogan of this society
should be "Urbanize the country and ruralize the town." I see tremendous
changes going on all the while. Can you think of the possibilities of
Minnesota? About 40 per cent of the land under cultivation and that half
worked. By and by there is going to be a crop of boys who will raise
seventy-five to 100 bushels of corn to the acre where their dads raised
twenty-five. You got to keep out of their way, you got to help them
along.
Marketing Fruit by Association.
A. N. GRAY, MGR. BAY LAKE FRUIT GROWERS' ASSN., DEERWOOD.
Marketing fruit or any farm product by association is the modern
farmer's insurance of results.
A great deal might be said on this subject, but I shall tell you briefly
what the Bay Lake Fruit Growers' Association have accomplished.
The first raspberry growing for market at Bay Lake was back in 1886.
Nick Newgard, one of our first settlers, sold quite a few berries that
year. Bay Lake is seven miles from Deerwood, the nearest railroad point,
and at that time there was only a trail between these places, and it was
necessary for Mr. Newgard to pack his berries in on his back. This same
method was used in transporting supplies.
[Illustration: Strawberry field on place of A. N. Gray, at Bay Lake.]
Mr. Newgard told me recently that he received a very good profit on his
berries the first ten years, but each year the acreage increased and
each year the growers' troubles increased in disposing of the crop.
In 1909 there was an unusually large crop and, shipping individually, as
we did at that time, it was a case of all shipments going to Duluth one
day, flooding the market, then the next day every one shipping to Fargo
and flooding that market, and at the end of the season when the growers
received their final returns they found that they had received very
small pay for their berries.
In the fall of that year the growers around Bay Lake called a meeting to
see if some organization could not be formed to handle their berries
and look after the collections. The result of this meeting was the
incorporation of the Bay Lake Fruit Growers' Association.
When the berry season opened in 1910 we had a manager, hired for the
season, on a salary, who worked under a board of five managing
directors. It was the manager's business to receive the berries at the
station, find a market for them, make the collections and settlements
with the growers. The result of this first year was so satisfactory to
the members that the total membership increased that fall to almost 100.
This new system had eliminated all the worry, and we received a good
price for our berries after the expense of our manager had been
deducted.
We have just closed our sixth season, which by the way has been a very
successful one, as the prices received have been above the average. We
now have about 150 members, and we have two shipping stations, Deerwood
and Aitkin. We market strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, currants,
gooseberries, plums, Compass cherries, apples, sweet corn and celery.
We have a nice trade worked up and have little trouble in finding a
ready market for any of our products.
It is our aim, as growers, to give our customers all A No. 1 quality.
During the berry season we have an inspector whose duty it is to inspect
the berries as they arrive at the station and any found to be of poor
quality we dispose of locally for canning. The grower of these berries
receives a credit for the amount we realize. In this way we keep the
standard of our berries up, and we have very few complaints from our
customers on soft berries.
As for losses on bad debts, we have thus far had very few. We usually
get a credit rating from the prospective customer's bank and ship to him
accordingly. Our old customers file standing orders with us to ship them
so many crates each day, and each year brings us new customers who have
heard of the fine Bay Lake berries.
In 1912 the association built a potato warehouse at a cost of about
$2,500, and we store the members' potatoes for them at a nominal cost.
In 1914 the association decided to put in a stock of flour and feed and
keep the manager the year around. Our business in this line has been
increasing all the time. It is very interesting to note that over 60 per
cent of our flour and feed customers are not members of the association.
We are growing all the time and branching out. A few months ago we added
a small stock of hardware and some groceries, and these have taken so
well that we would not be at all surprised if eventually we find
ourselves in the retail store business.
Evergreens for Both Utility and Ornament.
EARL FERRIS, NURSERYMAN, HAMPTON, IOWA.
As far as horticulture is concerned, the only touch of color on the
Northwestern landscape during the coming winter will be furnished by the
greens and blues of evergreens.
Did you ever pass a farm home in the winter that was protected by a good
evergreen grove and notice how beautiful it looked? Did you ever stop to
think of the difference in temperature that an evergreen grove makes, to
say nothing of the contrast in the appearance of the place to that of a
home with no grove?
[Illustration: A shelter of old Scotch pine at Mr. Earl Ferris'.]
When I was a small boy I was fortunate enough to be raised on a farm in
Butler County, Iowa, that was well protected by a good Norway spruce,
white pine and Scotch pine windbreak. The Norway spruce and white pine
are still there and if anything better than they were thirty years ago.
At that time my father fed from one to five carloads of stock every
winter back of this grove, and I honestly believe that he fed his steers
at a cost of from $5 to $15 per steer less than a neighboring feeder who
fed out on the open prairie with a few sheds to furnish the only winter
protection. I shall never forget the remark a German made who was
hauling corn to us one cold winter day. As he drove onto the scales back
of this grove, he straightened up and said: "Well, the evergreen grove
feels like putting on a fur coat," and I never heard the difference in
temperature described any better. Our evergreen grove moved our feeding
pens at least 300 miles further south every winter, as far as the cold
was concerned.
[Illustration: Thrifty windbreak of Norway spruce at Mr. Earl Ferris'
place, in Hampton, Ia.]
Near Hampton, Iowa, we have three or four of the best stock raisers in
the United States. Every one of them is feeding cattle back of a large
evergreen grove. In recent years they have divided up some of their
large farms into smaller places and made new feeding sheds, and the
first improvement that they made on each and every one of these places
was an evergreen grove. They buy the best trees that can be obtained
that have been transplanted and root pruned, and most of them prefer the
Norway spruce in the two to three foot size. After planting, they take
as good care of them as they do of any crop on the farm, for they fully
realize that cultivation is an all important thing in getting a good
evergreen grove started.
Several days ago, I talked with one of these feeders who has time and
again topped the Chicago market. He made the remark that the buildings
on his farm cost thousands of dollars while his evergreen grove had only
cost from $100 to $200, but that he would rather have every building on
the place destroyed than to lose that windbreak.
As the price of land and feed increases, the farmers of the Northwest
are waking up to the fact that an evergreen grove is an absolute
necessity, and that they cannot afford to plant any other. The maple,
willow, box elder and other similar trees take so much land that they
cannot afford them. They are a windbreak in the summer, but a joke in
the winter.
The time is not far distant when every up-to-date farmer in Minnesota,
Iowa, Nebraska and other Northwest states will have a good evergreen
grove which will be considered as much of a necessity as his barn, house
or other outbuildings.
[Illustration: Evergreens adorn old home of Otto Kankel, at Fertile,
Minn., in Red River Valley.]
Late this fall, my wife and I left Hampton for an automobile trip
through Minnesota, North Dakota and into Canada. It seemed to me on this
trip that the most beautiful thing we saw about the farm buildings were
the evergreen groves that many of the farmers now have all through
Minnesota and Dakota. I was certainly very much surprised at some of
these windbreaks and at some of the varieties of evergreens that were
being grown successfully as far north as Fargo. Near Fargo we found some
extra good specimens of Norway spruce, which I consider the best of all
windbreak makers. We also found the Scotch pine doing well 100 miles
northwest of Fargo, and other varieties which were naturally to be
expected being planted to a considerable extent.
As far as usefulness is concerned, the farmer of the prairie states is
bound to get more real value from an evergreen than any other person,
but I am very glad to say that the homes of the wealthy in the cities
each season are being improved more and more by the planting of the more
ornamental evergreens. Cities like Detroit, Cleveland, Buffalo, Boston,
St. Paul, Minneapolis, and other large cities of the United States are
using thousands of evergreens every season to beautify the homes, of not
only the wealthy but of the laboring man also. The price of evergreens
at the present time is within the reach of everyone owning a home, and
there is no other improvement that can be placed upon a piece of ground
at so little expense and so little labor that will add so many dollars
in real value to that property as will the evergreen, either as a
windbreak or in landscape work.
Annual Report, 1915, Executive Board.
J. M. UNDERWOOD, CHAIRMAN
The report of the executive board is necessarily brief from the fact
that the machinery of our society is kept in such excellent condition by
our secretary, that there is little left for our board to do. His
monthly issues of the "Horticulturist" keep the membership posted on all
important items of interest and are a splendid examplification to the
public of the value of our publications and of the meetings of our
society. Your executive board meets twice a year to verify the accounts
of the secretary and treasurer and at other times when there is
something of importance to attend to.
We wish to call your attention to the fact that your board is
practically self supporting. The members work for nothing and board
themselves, which is a mighty good way to do.
There is a work of very great importance for the _members_ of our
society to do the coming year. That is to help in every legitimate way
to _secure an appropriation_ by the next legislature with which to build
for our society a _home_. We should have had it provided so that we
could celebrate our semi-centennial a year from now in our own home. If
we were a private society, we would have had a home years ago.
We should be closely affiliated with the horticulture of the State
University. Our home should be located on the grounds of the
Agricultural College, where the building could be used for other
purposes when not needed by our society. Let every member of our society
interview the senator and member of the house from his or her district
next fall and secure their promise to support a bill to appropriate
$50,000 for building us a home.
Annual Report of Treasurer, 1915.
GEO. W. STRAND, TAYLORS FALLS, TREASURER.
RECEIPTS.
1914.
Dec. 1. Balance on hand $4,948.35
Interest on certificate of deposit, six months, to
November 1, 1914 126.15
1915.
Mar. 1. Semi-annual allowance 1,500.00
Apr. 5. Interest on deposit, six months, to April 1 85.96
A. W. Latham, receipts secretary's office, November 25,
1914 to June 21, 1915 3,290.74
Sept. 4. State Treasurer, semi-annual allowance 1,500.00
Dec. 1. A. W. Latham, receipts secretary's office June 21, 1915,
to December 1, 1915 1,064.30
----------
$12,515.50
DISBURSEMENTS.
1914.
Dec. 12. Order 229, A .W. Latham, Revolving Fund $600.00
Dec. 12. Order 235, Premiums Annual Meeting 596.50
1915.
Mar. 1. Order 230, A. W. Latham, first quarter salary 450.00
Apr. 5. A. W. Latham, interest on deposit 85.96
June 1. Order 231, A. W. Latham, second quarter salary 450.00
June 21. Order 232, A. W. Latham, expenses secretary's office
November 25 to June 21, 1915 3,290.74
June 25. Order 236, Premiums Summer Meeting 1915 172.00
Sept. 3. Order 233, A. W. Latham, third quarter salary 450.00
Dec. 1. Order 234, A. W. Latham, fourth quarter salary 450.00
Dec. 1. Order 237, A. W. Latham, expenses secretary's office
June 21, 1915 to December 1, 1915 1,064.30
----------
$7,609.50
Dec. 1. Balance on hand 4,906.00
----------
$12,515.50
Deposits, Farmers & Mechanics Bank $4,276.15
Deposits, First & Security National Bank 629.85
----------
$4,906.00
Annual Meeting, 1915, N.E. Iowa Horticultural Society.
C. E. SNYDER, PRESTON, DELEGATE
Your delegate arrived at Decorah at nine-thirty, Wednesday, November
seventeenth. Full accommodations offered by the Winneshiek Hotel made
the trip complete and homelike to delegates and members.
The convention was held in the old Marsh Hall, a very suitable place,
offering ample room with all necessary accommodations for such a
gathering.
Decorations showed much time and skill, resulting in a beautiful display
of shrubbery-boughs, evergreen, etc.
The area of a table about one hundred feet long and six feet wide,
running through the center of the hall, contained a great variety of
apples surprising for this season. Many, including C.H. True, of Clayton
county, proved themselves successful orchardists.
[Illustration: Mr. C. E. Snyder, Preston.]
On various other tables large displays of agriculture, apiary,
greenhouse and garden products completed the harmonizing of
horticulture, floriculture and agriculture, including mentioned
decorations appearing as a striking feature and an encouragement to the
cause.
The meeting was called to order shortly after ten o'clock by President
Geo. S. Woodruff. The mingling of many instructive papers with humorous
selections and music proved the program well arranged. Same carried out
very successfully held the interest of a not large but fair attendance
throughout. A paper and address by Wesley Greene, of Des Moines, should
have reached the ears of every Iowa and Minnesota citizen. A striking
selection on "The Tree," by J. A. Nelson, was descriptive, instructive,
humorous and poetic.
A topic of great interest was the everbearing strawberry, which
persistently bobbed up every now and then in interesting discussion.
Brother Gardner, with his practical experience, was right at hand, a
leader and authority on this fruit. Clarence Wedge, who always contended
that the Progressive was away ahead of all others, was endorsed by every
man that grew them in this convention, by a vote on merit of varieties.
Reports from the different districts showed a heavy rainfall throughout
the season, resulting in rust and scab. Sprayed orchards showed better
results than others. Small fruits were abundant and good.
Shortly after four o'clock Wednesday afternoon automobiles drew up and
took delegates and members over beautiful Decorah, stopping at Symond's
greenhouses, and on through the most beautiful park in this section,
then to the palatial residence of John Harter, where a very bountiful
banquet was enjoyed.
During convention Secretary Black's and Treasurer True's reports showed
the society in flourishing condition.
All officers were re-elected, place of next meeting to be chosen later
by the executive committee.
* * * * *
HANDLING RASPBERRIES.--In 1911 the Government investigators
made comparative tests of the keeping qualities of carefully handled
raspberries and commercially handled raspberries. Several lots of each
kind were held in an ice car for varying periods and then examined for
the percentage of decay. Other lots were held a day after being
withdrawn from the refrigerator car and then examined. The results are
most significant.
After 4 days in the ice car it was found that the carefully handled
berries showed only 0.4 per cent. decay, while the commercially handled
fruit had 4.6 per cent. After 8 days in the car the difference was
vastly greater. The carefully handled fruit showed only 2.2 per cent.
decay, but with the commercially handled this percentage had risen to
26.7, or more than one-quarter of the entire shipment. When the fruit
was examined a day after it had been taken out of the ice car, the
evidence was equally strong in favor of careful handling. Carefully
handled fruit that had remained 4 days in the car was found a day after
its withdrawal to show only 1 per cent. of decay against 17.5 per cent.
in commercially handled berries. Carefully handled fruit left in the car
8 days, and then held one day, showed only 8.1 per cent. of decay as
against 47.6 per cent. in commercially handled fruit.
The following year experiments were made with actual shipments instead
of with the stationary refrigerator car, and the results confirmed
previous conclusions. It was found, for example, that there was less
decay in the carefully handled berries at the end of 8 days than in the
commercially handled berries at the end of 4. Carefully handled fruit
that was 4 days in transit, and had then been held one day after
withdrawal from the refrigerator car showed less than 1 per cent of
decay, whereas commercially handled berries subjected to the same test
showed nearly 10 per cent.
Orcharding in Minnesota.
RICHARD WELLINGTON, ASST. HORTICULTURIST, UNIVERSITY FARM, ST. PAUL.
This paper is purposely given a broad title so that it may cover any
questions which come under the head of orcharding. Many of you who have
been pestered with an "Orchard Survey Blank" can easily guess what
subjects are to be taken up. Thanks to many of the members of this
society and other fruit growers for their hearty co-operation, a large
amount of data has been collected from fifty-three counties,
representing most of the districts within the state. As would be
expected certain counties have contributed much more information than
others, probably owing to their greater interest in orcharding. For
example: Thirty-one replies have already been received from Hennepin
County, seven from Goodhue, six from Renville, five each from Houston,
Meeker and Rice, four each from Chippewa, Dakota, Mower, Polk and
Wabasha, three each from Blue Earth, Nicollet, Ottertail, Pine, Ramsey,
Steele, Washington and Watonwan and one or two each from the remaining
counties. Perhaps if the right parties had been reached the low-standing
counties would have a higher ranking.
The best way to present the data is an enigma. If all the information
was given at one time we would need a whole day instead of fifteen
minutes. Of course much of the material is a repetition, and a general
summary will cover the main facts in most cases. Nevertheless it is not
feasible to take up all of the subject matter in this short period, and
therefore the first two topics on the survey blank have been selected,
namely, orchard sites and protective agencies. At a later date, if you
are sufficiently interested in dry facts other subjects, as soils,
dynamiting, orchard management, stock of fruit trees, methods of
planting and pruning, varieties for various localities, etc., will be
taken up. Some of the subjects, like sites and soils, will be treated as
state problems, while others must be considered as sectional.
Minnesota, as you all know, contains many different climatic conditions,
and consequently its orchard practices and recommendations must vary
accordingly. To meet this problem the writer, in consultation with Prof.
Cady, divided the state into six sections, namely, the southeastern,
east central, northeastern, northwestern, west central and southwestern.
Many counties are, of course, in an intermediate position and might be
thrown into either of the adjoining sections, but an arbitrary line
must be drawn somewhere. Freeborn, Waseca, Rice, Goodhue and all the
counties east of them are placed in the southeastern section. Nicollet,
LeSueur, Sibley, McLeod, Wright, Isanti and the counties to the east are
included in the central east, and Pine, Mille Lacs, Morrison and the
counties to the north and east are placed in the northeastern section.
Beltrami, Hubbard, Ottertail and the counties to the west are placed in
northwestern section; Traverse, Douglas, Todd, Stearns, Meeker,
Renville, Yellow Medicine and the enclosed counties in the west central,
and the remainder to the south and west are in the southwestern section.
Thus, when the various sections are mentioned, you will know what part
of the state is being referred to.
_Site of Orchard._ By site of orchard we refer to its location, that is,
whether it is on rolling, level or hilly ground, and the direction of
its slope, provided it has one. From past experience it is believed that
an orchard situated on a north slope is ideally located for Minnesota
conditions, as its blossoming period is retarded and consequently the
liability of injury from late frosts decreased. But all people who want
orchards do not possess such a slope, so they set out their orchards on
the most convenient location. A few growers have orchards sloping in all
directions, and their opinion on the influence of slope on hardiness and
retardation of the blooming period should be valuable. It is of interest
to note that, out of 108 reporting on the levelness of the orchard
ground, only twelve had level ground, two level to nearly level, one
level to decidedly rolling, twenty-nine nearly level, seven nearly level
to slightly rolling, three nearly level to medium rolling, twenty-nine
slightly rolling, four slightly rolling to medium rolling, eighteen
rolling and three decidedly rolling. A glance at the figures shows that
the majority of orchards are on nearly level to slightly rolling land.
In addition to the numbers given thirteen reported a slight slope, one a
slight slope to a medium slope, two a slight to a steep slope, sixteen a
medium slope, one a medium to a steep slope, and five a steep slope--the
emphasis being laid on the moderate rising ground. No grower reported an
orchard location entirely at the base of a slope, but six reported
orchards extending from the base to the top of the slope, two from the
base to midway of the slope, twenty-five at midway of the slope, seven
from midway to the top and twenty-two at the top of a slope--the high
ground evidently being preferred for orchard sites. As a general rule,
as would naturally be expected, those who reported their orchards on the
top of the slope usually reported their ground as either high or medium.
Of ninety-six reports on the elevation of the orchards only four
reported low land, and two of these were on top of a slope, two low and
medium, one low and high, forty-six medium, fourteen medium and high,
and twenty-seven high--the medium taking the lead. These figures have
been given of the state as a whole, but when the sections are considered
the southeastern and the west central take the lead in the highest
percentage of high ground in comparison with the lower ground; the
southeastern and east central, for the greatest amount of rolling land;
and the southwestern, for the most level or nearly level land.
[Illustration: Down the long row. View in well cared for orchard of J. M.
Barclay, Madison Lake.]
As for the effect of direction of slope on hardiness, there were many
varied opinions. Thirty stated without question that the direction had
an effect, thirty-one stated that it had no effect, and seventy-two
admitted that they did not know. Of those answering in the affirmative
only seven had two or more distinctly different slopes, while fifteen of
the negatives had two or more slopes for comparison. Nine of those who
stated they didn't know had two or more slopes upon which to base their
judgment. In summing up the direction of sites preferred, seventy-seven
recommended a northerly slope, nine had no preference, one preferred
southeast, one west, one west and east, two east, one north and east,
one northeast or east, and sixty-four expressed no opinion. Two growers
stated that the north slope prevented early bloom and thereby lessened
liability to injury from late frosts, two growers stated that northern
slopes decreased the loss of moisture, and one stated that the northeast
slope gives the largest fruit and the west the best colored.
As a brief summary of the reports on orchard sites, it may be stated
that high ground, rolling or sloping to the north, is preferred by the
majority of growers who filled out these orchard survey blanks.
_Protective Agencies._ Under this heading comes windbreaks of all kinds,
whether hills, natural timber or planted trees, and bodies of water
which ameliorate the climate. Out of fifty-four replies from the central
east section, sixteen reported that their orchards were favorably
affected by lakes, the benefit coming in most cases from the prevention
of early and late frosts. One grower attributed the cooling of the air
during the summer as a benefit and two stated that the bodies of water
furnished moisture. Two growers in the southeast section received
favorable influences from the Mississippi River, and one in the
southwestern and two in the west central sections thought they received
beneficial effects from lakes. According to this data, orchards in the
east central section, owing largely to the influence of Lake Minnetonka,
are greatly benefited by the presence of water.
Windbreaks are a very important factor in successful orcharding in
Minnesota, even though one party in the southeast section and three
parties in the central east noted no beneficial effects. According to
reports from the central west and southwest sections they are of great
benefit and in some cases indispensable to apple growing. As would be
expected by any one who is acquainted with Minnesota, the planted
windbreaks are a more important factor in the prairie country than in
the natural wooded and hilly regions. In the southeast section, five
orchards were reported as protected by bluffs and hills, three by both
hills and natural woods, two by natural woods, two by both natural and
planted woods, and twenty-one by planted woods; in the central east
section, one by a hill and a planted windbreak, one by a town, fifteen
by natural timber, two by natural and planted timber, and nineteen by
planted windbreaks; in the northeast section, two by natural and four by
planted windbreaks; in the northwest section, three by natural and two
by planted windbreaks; in the west central section, one by a hill and
natural timber, five by natural timber, two by natural timber and
planted windbreaks, and eighteen by planted windbreaks; and in the
southwest section, one by a hill and natural woods, one by a hill and
planted windbreak, two by natural timber, and fifteen by planted
windbreaks. If Meeker County, which has natural timber, was not included
in the central west--and perhaps it should have been included in central
east--this section would have only one orchard protected alone by
natural timber; and if Blue Earth County was eliminated from the
southwest, this section would have no orchard protected alone by natural
timber.
The beneficial effects from windbreaks may be summed up as follows:
Twenty-five reported that they prevented fruit from being blown off
trees, nine that they prevented trees and limbs being broken by winds
and storms, ten that they protected trees from injury by winds without
specifying the kind of injury, four that they reduced injury from
frosts, ten that they either prevented or reduced winter injury, four
that they helped to retain moisture, five that they helped to hold snow,
eight that they prevented snow drifting, five that they protected
orchards from hot and dry winds, three that they permitted the growing
of apples, and one that they supplied all advantages.
The kinds of trees recommended for windbreaks and the methods of
planting are numerous and variable and to discuss them at length would
take too much time. However, the principal facts may be briefly
enumerated.
In eighty-five reports that listed set out windbreaks, it was found that
fifty-seven growers had used evergreens, thirty-seven willows,
twenty-nine box elders, twenty-five maples, seventeen cottonwoods,
thirteen ashes, eleven elms, eight poplars, four oaks, four plums, three
nuts and one apple. The evergreens consisted of thirteen Scotch pine,
eleven evergreens (not named), eight Norway spruce, five spruce (not
named), three balsam, three Austrian pine, two white pine, one yellow
pine, two cedar, two white spruce, two pine (variety not named), two
fir, two jack pine, one Black Hills spruce, and one tamarack. In the
willows were given twenty willows (variety not named), two
laurel-leaved, seven white and eight golden; in the maples, sixteen soft
maples, two hard maples, one silver-maple and six maples (kind not
named); in the poplars, five Norway, one Carolina, two poplar (kind not
named); and in the nuts, one black walnut, one butternut and one walnut.
The major part of the box elders, cottonwoods, willows and ashes were
noted in the central west and southwest sections. Thirty-seven
experienced growers of windbreaks, the most of them living in the
southwest, west central and southeast sections, recommended the
following trees for windbreaks in the given proportions, twenty-four
evergreens, fifteen willows, seven maples, six poplars, five elms, five
box elders, three elms, two plum, two cottonwood, three hedges, one oak,
one hackberry and one black walnut. The evergreens are decidedly the
most popular, and among the varieties mentioned Norway spruce takes the
lead for those recommended, and the Scotch pine for those planted.
There are about as many different systems of planting used as growers.
The main point in all cases was to have a planting that would stop the
wind and storms. A few growers advocated the use of a hedge or plum
trees to fill in under the windbreak, while one grower desires a
circulation of air under the branches of his trees. Cultivation and
intercropping of windbreaks are also recommended in a few cases. The
distance of planting varies, of course, with the trees or shrubs used.
For example: one grower recommends 8 ft. x 8 ft. for large deciduous
trees, and another grower, 6 ft. x 12 ft. apart in rows and two rows, 12
ft. apart. For Scotch pine one grower advocates eight feet. In some
cases a mixture of many kinds of trees is recommended, and then again
only one kind. One very solid windbreak is made up of a lilac hedge,
four rows of jack pine, four rows of Norway poplar and one row of
willow. Another is one row willow, one of evergreen, one of willow and
one of evergreen.
Various distances between windbreak and orchard were used and
recommended. A large number of orchards were started at about twenty
feet from the windbreak and a few as close as one rod, but these
distances proved to be too close. One grower, however, recommended close
planting and later the removal of a row of trees in the windbreak when
more space was needed. The recommended distances for planting varied
from thirty to 500 feet, although seventy-five to 100 was satisfactory
in most cases.
More details have been given in regard to orchard sites and windbreaks
than many of you are probably interested in, but for one who is planning
to set out an orchard they should prove of value and profit, as they are
based upon the experiences of many of Minnesota's best orchardists.
My Experience with a Young Orchard.
ROY VIALL, SPRING VALLEY.
About ten years ago we acquired some land three and one-half miles north
of Spring Valley. This land is very rough and was originally covered
with heavy timber, in fact, about one-third of our large orchard was
cleared and grubbed out the fall before planting.
When I became interested in fruit growing one of the first things I did
was to join the Horticultural Society and to the knowledge obtained
through this membership we owe in large measure what success has come to
us.
The eighteen acres selected for our main orchard slopes quite abruptly
to the north and northeast. In fact, the slope is so steep that the
ground, if kept under cultivation, would wash badly, and this was the
real reason for seeding down our orchard at the time of planting. The
orchard is now seven years old, and the trees have never had a particle
of cultivation. Part of this ground was in grain and seeded to alsike
and timothy the year before; the balance was the new land referred to,
which we had broken and immediately seeded down to alsike and timothy,
with oats as a nurse crop.
Our first problem was what varieties to plant, in what proportion and
where to buy them. In this we adopted the recommendation of this society
at that time, choosing Wealthy, Duchess, Patten Greening and
Northwestern Greening, with fifty Malinda and fifty Iowa Beauty. We now
have in addition two small orchards with nearly forty varieties
altogether. The varieties, for the large orchard were divided as
follows: 250 Duchess, 250 Patten Greening, 300 Northwestern Greening,
1,000 Wealthy. Were I to set another commercial orchard of the same size
it would contain 500 Duchess and the balance Wealthy. While the Patten
Greening is an ideal tree and an early and prolific bearer, there is
with us a much larger per cent of imperfect and diseased fruit than of
any other variety. Tree for tree, I believe the Duchess will produce
_more_ saleable _fruit_.
Where to buy our trees was decided for us in one of our first numbers of
the Horticulturist, viz., at the nearest reliable nursery. That this was
good advice is evidenced by the fact that out of the 1,900 trees we have
found but two that were not as ordered.
Our next problem was, at what distance to plant the trees. The more
information we sought the less sure were we of the best plan. We were
advised to plant all distances from 12 feet by 16 feet to 24 feet by 32
feet. We finally concluded to take about an average of them all and
decided on 20 feet by 20 feet, and so far have had no reason to regret
it. We have put up the alsike and timothy every year for hay with the
usual machinery, and there has not been over a half dozen trees
seriously damaged. Our trees were nearly all three years old, 5 to 6
feet, and we find they do much better in sod than a smaller tree.
Having the orchard set out the next thing was to protect the trees from
mice and rabbits. This we did by making protectors out of wire cloth,
using different widths, from 18 to 24 inches, cutting it in strips 10
inches wide and holding it about the trees by three pieces of stove pipe
wire at the top, middle and bottom. Not counting the time of making and
putting them on these cost us from 1-1/2 cents to 2-1/2 cents each, and
lasted from three to four years. We used a few made of galvanized wire
cloth, which lasted much longer.
Three years ago we commenced replacing these protectors with a wash of
white lead and raw linseed oil mixed to the consistency of separator
cream. The first year we painted only fifty trees, the next year 100,
the next 300, and this last year we painted every tree on the place. We
can see no bad effects, and it certainly protects against mice and
rabbits and, what is equally as important, against borers also, and the
cost per tree, including labor, is much less.
We have also used the lead and oil with splendid results in treating
trees affected with canker. We had quite a number of Wealthy so
affected, and we cut out the affected bark and wood and then covered the
wound with lead, and in almost every case it has proved a cure, that is,
stopped the spread of the canker.
The second year our orchard was set out we began to mulch the trees with
grass cut in the orchard, clover straw, pea straw--anything we could
get. We were unable to mulch the entire orchard that year, and before we
got the balance mulched you could tell as far as you could see the
orchard which trees were mulched and which were not. The former not only
made a better growth, but had a healthier look. Now I do not want you to
get the idea that I am advocating the sod system except in locations
similar to ours. Were our orchard on more level ground I not only should
have cultivated the first three years, as advocated by most authorities,
but would have continued the cultivation in some degree at least.
Nevertheless, on account probably of the very favorable location, I
think our orchard will compare favorably with any cultivated orchard of
the same age. Having the orchard set out, protected against mice and
rabbits and mulched, we found that the real work of raising an orchard
had just begun. First came the gray beetles the following June, and they
ate the new growth off several hundred trees before we discovered them.
At that time, not knowing what else to do, we hand picked every one we
could find and destroyed them. These beetles we found came from oak
groves on the south and west, and the next year we sprayed with arsenate
of lead six or eight rows of trees on that side of the orchard, and as
we have since then sprayed the entire orchard each year we have had no
further trouble.
Next came pocket gophers, and before we learned how to stop them we had
lost a number of trees by their chewing off the roots just beneath the
surface of the ground. By opening their runways and placing well down in
them a piece of carrot or potato in which has been placed a little
strychnine we succeeded in getting rid of them entirely. Next came the
woodchucks. They were very destructive with us, chewing the bark above
the protectors as well as the roots. Trapping is the most successful
method we have found, and by keeping a half dozen traps out all the time
we held them in check. Eternal vigilance must be the motto of the
successful orchardist.
In the year 1913 we picked our first crop of apples, that is, in
sufficient quantity to be considered in a commercial way. Our Duchess we
sold in barrels at $2.00 net. Wealthy we packed in bushel boxes, making
two sizes, the larger, three inches and over, we called No. 1, and they
sold for $1.25 per box net. The balance or smaller ones were also sold
in boxes and brought us $1.00 per box net. Patten Greenings brought us
80 cents and Northwestern Greenings, 90 cents per box. Our neighbors,
who sold to the local and transient buyers in bulk and in barrels,
received 75 cents to 90 cents per hundred pounds, or $2.00 per barrel.
The past year we had only about 75 bushels of all kinds. With the
exception of Duchess and possibly Patten's Greening we shall certainly
sell our next crop in bushel boxes.
We are top-working about 50 Patten's Greening to Jonathan, Delicious,
McIntosh Red and King David. As the work was only started a year ago
last spring I cannot tell you of its success or failure. So far the best
results seem to be with the Jonathan.
We also have about thirty varieties of plums, including many of Prof.
Hansen's new hybrids. Of these the Opata seems to be the most hardy and
prolific, but it is subject to brown rot, which, this past year was so
bad that we lost more than half the fruit. We have it top-worked on
several varieties of native plums, and it was similarly affected there
also. This was the only variety in our orchard of 150 trees that was so
affected. We have fifteen Surprise plums, set seven years, that have not
yielded altogether a peck of plums. Only lack of time kept me from
grubbing them out last spring. This past season they were so heavily
loaded that we had to prop the limbs and then thin out the fruit.
We endeavor to spray all our trees twice with commercial lime-sulphur
and arsenate of lead--the first time immediately after the blossoms
fall, the second two weeks later. Our spraying outfit consists of a
Morrill & Morley hand pump, fitted in a 100-gallon tank, which we
mounted on a small, one-horse truck. We operate it with three men, one
to drive and pump and one for each line of hose, spraying two rows of
trees at once. With this outfit we can spray 400 to 500 trees (of the
size of ours) a day.
* * * * *
THE NATIONAL FORESTS--besides being the American farmer's most
valuable source of wood, which is the chief building material for rural
purposes, are also his most valuable source of water, both for
irrigation and domestic use. In the West, they afford him a protected
grazing range for his stock; they are the best insurance against flood
damage to his fields, his buildings, his bridges, his roads, and the
fertility of his soil. The national forests cover the higher portions of
the Rocky Mountain ranges, the Cascades, the Pacific Coast ranges, and a
large part of the forested coast and islands of Alaska; some of the
hilly regions in Montana and in the Dakotas, Oklahoma, and Arkansas, and
limited areas in Minnesota, Michigan, Florida, and Porto Rico. In
addition, land is now being purchased for national forests in the White
Mountains of New England and in the southern Appalachians. In regions so
widely scattered, agricultural and forest conditions necessarily differ
to a great degree, bringing about corresponding differences in the
effect of the national forests on the agricultural interests of the
various localities. Wherever agriculture can be practiced, however, the
farmer is directly benefited by the existence of national forests and by
their proper management.--U.S. Dept. of Agri.
GARDEN HELPS
Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society
Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So.
Minneapolis.
SOME SUGGESTIONS FOR THE USE OF COAL ASHES--
This is the time of the year when the unsightly heaps of coal ashes are
likely to appear in one's back yard--eyesores and apparently useless.
Yet there are several ways in which they can be used to advantage about
the garden.
They should first be sifted, using a quarter-inch wire mesh. The rough
or coarser parts are well adapted for use on paths and driveways,
forming a clean, firm surface with use. These paths are especially good
in the garden, for weeds do not grow readily in them, and they dry off
quickly after a rain.
Such parts of the ashes as will pass through an inch mesh will make a
very good summer mulch about fruit trees and bushes that require such
care. This mulch will conserve the moisture at the roots of the tree or
plant at a time when it is very necessary to have it.
About a pyramid of these coarse ashes one may plant anything that
requires much water. The roots of the plants will run under the ashes
and keep moist and cool. Through a drought a little water poured upon
the ashes will be distributed to the roots without loss.
The fine sifted ashes will render the tougher hard soils more friable,
their chief virtue being lightening it. In a very mild degree they are a
fertilizer, though in no degree comparable in this respect to hardwood
ashes. Yet it has been proved that soil to which sifted coal ashes had
been added grew plants of richer, darker foliage. They must be very well
mixed with the soil by a thorough spading and forking.
The following experiment was noted in the Garden Magazine: A soil was
prepared as follows: One-eighth stable manure, one-eighth leaf mold,
one-quarter garden soil (heavy), one-half sifted coal ashes. Plants
grown in this soil surpassed those grown in the garden soil next to
them.
Coal ashes would not be advised for a light soil.
* * * * *
Watch this page for announcement of Garden Flower Society meetings.
January 20th, Public Library, Minneapolis, Tenth and Hennepin,
Directors' Room, 2:30 p.m.
SUBJECTS:
Hotbeds, coldframes, management and care of the young plants, Mr. Frank
H. Gibbs.
The Minnesota Cypripediums. Can they be successfully cultivated? Miss
Clara Leavitt.
Five-minute talks on "The Best Things of 1915."
Members are urged to bring their friends to this meeting. No one who
contemplates having a garden this year can afford to miss it. Let us be
generous and share our good programs with as many as possible. Each
member is host or hostess for that day.
SECRETARY'S CORNER
ANNUAL MEETING WISCONSIN STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCY.--This
meeting is to be held at Madison, Wis., on January 5-7. Mr. Chas.
Haralson, superintendent of our State Fruit-Breeding Farm, is to
represent this society at that meeting. We may look for an interesting
report from him in the February issue of our monthly.
IS YOUR ANNUAL FEE PAID?--If not, won't you please send it in
promptly, remitting by a $1.00 bill, which is a safe medium of payment,
instead of using check unless you draw on a bank in one of the larger
cities of the state. Checks on country banks, as a rule, can only be
collected here by a payment of ten cents, which the society can ill
afford to pay for so many members.
ANNUAL MEETING S.D. HORT. SOCY.--The annual gathering of this
sister association will be held in Huron, S.D., January 18-20. Quite a
good many of our members live so near the state line that they may find
it convenient to attend this meeting, which will certainly be a
profitable one. Prof. N. E. Hansen is secretary. Mr. Wm. Pfaender, Jr.,
of New Ulm, is to be the representative of this society at the South
Dakota meeting.
ANNUAL MEETING SOUTHERN MINNESOTA HORT. SOCY.--This very
wide-awake auxiliary of the state society will hold its annual meeting
in Austin, January 19th and 20th next. The program of the meeting is not
yet at hand, but you may be sure that it will be an interesting and
practical one. If the reader is living anywhere within convenient range
of Austin by all means attend this meeting and get inspiration and help
for the work of another season.
YOU ARE NOT FORGOTTEN.--This refers to members of the society
who have paid their annual fee for 1916 and are wondering why they have
not yet received the membership ticket. There is always a little
unavoidable delay in sending out these tickets after the annual meeting.
First the tickets must be printed, and then the society folder that goes
out with them must be prepared, and the material making up this folder
comes from quite a number of sources, and it takes more or less time to
get all of these matters together and in shape. You need not be
solicitous in regard to membership fees remitted, as the chance of loss
in transmission is approximately nothing; hardly half a dozen instances
of the kind have come up in the twenty-five years of service of the
secretary.
PASSING OF MICHAEL BENDEL, SR.--This old member of our society
and resident of Madison has just been called away, December 23rd, at the
age of seventy-nine years. While not an attendant at our meetings he was
a most loyal member of the society, and especially conspicuous in the
western part of the state, where he lived, as a successful experimenter
in orcharding, in which work he had a large experience. His portrait and
a brief sketch of his life appear in the 1914 volume of our report, on
page 150. Mr. Bendel was for many years president of the Lac qui Parle
County Agricultural Society, was always greatly interested in everything
to improve the interests of his community, and especially those
pertaining to farm life. He has left an enviable record.
FARMERS AND HOME MAKERS WEEK.--University Farm, midway between
Minneapolis and St. Paul, have prepared a royal program for all
interested in agricultural work and life, including the needs of the
household, filling all of next week, from January 3rd to 8th, inclusive.
Seventy-nine professors and instructors by count are on the program for
the week, and it is so arranged that those attending pass from one
lecture room to another, from hour to hour, selecting the subjects that
they have a special interest in. Horticulture, or subjects closely akin,
have a place on this program Monday afternoon, Tuesday forenoon and
afternoon, Wednesday forenoon and Thursday forenoon; Thursday afternoon
the horticultural program is devoted entirely to vegetables; Friday
forenoon and afternoon; and Saturday forenoon altogether spraying. When
this magazine is received it will be too late to send for a program, but
not too late to attend the meetings, which we hope many of our members
may have the opportunity to do.
ATTENDANCE AT ANNUAL MEETING.--The badge book, which is issued
at every annual meeting, containing the list of those who notify the
secretary of a purpose to attend the meeting, is a pretty good index of
the attendance. This year the badge book contained 442 names. Of course
not all of these were present at the meeting, but a great many who were
there had not sent notice of attendance and whose names were not in the
badge book, so that the figures given elsewhere in this magazine as to
attendance, estimated at from 400 to 500, are certainly not any too
high.
Of this number not to exceed fifteen members, including vice presidents
and superintendents of trial stations living at a distance, receive
their railroad fare to and from the annual meeting, which is the only
compensation they receive for their work in operating the trial stations
and preparing the annual or semi-annual reports connected with their
positions. This is not in fact any compensation for service but rather a
recognition of the large obligation under which the society rests
towards them for such gratuitous service.
PLANT PREMIUMS FOR 1916.--On the inside front cover page of
this monthly will be found a list of the plant premiums offered to our
membership the coming spring. This list is also published in the society
folder, of which copies will be sent to each member and which can be
supplied in any number desired by application to the secretary. The list
of plant premiums includes a considerable variety of plants both
ornamental and otherwise useful. Those of special interest this year are
the new fruits being sent out from the State Fruit-Breeding Farm,
including No. 3 June-bearing strawberry, which gives promise of being a
very valuable fruit for Minnesota planters; No. 1017 everbearing
strawberry, the kind which has been selected from thousands of varieties
fruiting at the station, a good plant maker and also a prolific fruiter
of high quality berries; No. 4 raspberry, a variety of extraordinary
vigor and hardiness, large fruited, and a prolific bearer; and several
varieties of large fruited plums. Every member of the society with
facilities for growing fruits should be interested in trying these new
varieties, which of course are still being sent out on trial, and we
desire to hear from our membership as to their measure of success with
them.
[Illustration: A. W. LATHAM O. C. GREGG CHAS. G. PATTEN
From photograph taken in front of Administration Building, at University
Farm, on the morning of January 8, just before presentation of
certificates referred to on opposite page.]
While it is not the intention to publish anything in this
magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be
remembered that the articles published herein recite the
experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must
always be noted in estimating their practical value.
THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST
Vol. 44 FEBRUARY, 1916 No. 2
OPEN LETTER TO MEMBERS
OF THE
Minnesota State Horticultural Society
FROM ITS SECRETARY.
Probably members of the society very generally noticed a few weeks since
in the daily papers of the Twin Cities and elsewhere an announcement
that "certificates of award for special meritorious services in the
advancement of agriculture" would be made by the Minnesota State
University to Mr. O. C. Gregg, Hon. W. G. LeDuc, Mr. Chas. G. Patten and
Mr. A. W. Latham.
These certificates were awarded Saturday, January 8th, 1916, at the
closing exercises of the Farmers Week at the University Farm before an
audience of twelve hundred people, gathered in the chapel in the
Administration Building. Appropriate exercises were conducted by the
President, Geo. E. Vincent, and the Dean of the University Farm, A.F.
Woods, in the presence of Hon. Fred B. Snyder, President of the Board of
Regents of the State University, and other members of the Board and a
large representation of the professorship of University Farm School,
also occupying the platform.
Dean Woods read a sketch of the life of each one of the recipients, and
the certificates were formally presented to each in turn by the
President of the State University. All the persons who were to receive
this honor were in attendance except Gen. LeDuc, who was probably unable
to be present on account of his extreme age.
When this matter was first called to my attention I felt that it would
be entirely out of place, being its editor, that I should make reference
to it in the society monthly, but as the fact has been widely published
throughout the state, and whatever honor is connected with this
presentation is to be shared with the members of the Horticultural
Society, I have changed my view point in regard to this, and it seems to
me now that the members of the society should be fully informed as to
what has taken place.
Mr. O. C. Gregg received this distinction on account of his connection
with the farmers' institutes of the state, of which he was the pioneer,
and in connection with which he remained as superintendent for some
twenty-two years.
Gen. LeDuc was for a number of years Commissioner of Agriculture at
Washington and introduced many important reforms in the management of
that department.
Mr. Chas. G. Patten is well known to our members of course as the
originator of the Patten's Greening apple, although this is quite an
infinitesimal part of the work that he has done in connection with the
breeding of fruits, the results from which the public are to profit by
largely, we believe, in the early future. At his advanced age of
eighty-four we feel that this honor has been wisely placed.
"Mr. A. W. Latham has been secretary of the Minnesota State Horticultural
Society for twenty-five years, during which period its membership has
advanced from one or two hundred to thirty-four hundred, making it the
largest horticultural society in the country, and probably," as stated
by the Dean in his address, "the largest in the world."
While this distinction has been conferred upon the secretary of your
society it is not to be considered as so much a personal tribute to him
as a recognition of the splendid work done by the society as a whole, in
which every member has had some share. To express fully my thought in
this I will refer briefly to the organization of the society, just half
a century ago, when a handful of earnest men united their efforts under
the name of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society in an endeavor to
solve the difficult problems connected with fruit growing in this
region. None of the men who at that time organized this society are now
living, but others have taken their places, and the important service
that was so well cared for by the earlier membership is being equally as
well prosecuted by those who have succeeded them.
My personal connection with the society began the third year of its
existence, so that I had the high privilege of enjoying personal
acquaintance with practically all those earlier workers in the society,
and indeed most of them were still alive when I came into the
secretaryship twenty-five years ago. It will not be out of place to
speak here particularly of a few of those who are no longer with us:
John S. Harris, that staunch friend, one of the original twelve, whose
medallion hangs on the wall of the horticultural classroom at University
Farm; Peter M. Gideon, whose self-sacrifice gave us the Wealthy apple,
now of worldwide planting--he in whose memory the Gideon Memorial Fund
was created; Col. John H. Stevens, that large hearted man of
unquenchable public spirit; P.A. Jewell, searcher for new fruits and
founder of the Jewell Nursery Company; Truman M. Smith, seven years
president during many dark days; Wyman Elliot, one of the original
twelve, well called by one "King of the Horticultural Society"--so
recently taken from us. The institution of learning conferring this
distinction upon us has contributed a full share of workers now no
longer with us; W. W. Pendergast, first principal of the University Farm
School, and for many years president of the society until stricken with
a fatal illness; and Prof. Saml. B. Green of blessed memory, whose loss
we shall never cease to mourn. There are many others who did great
service to the society that I should be glad to speak of here if space
would permit.
In the list of those who are still with us and have served with such
self devotion and courage in advancing the interests of the society, and
that for which it stands, are to be found the names of many men
prominent in various walks of life in our state. It would be out of
place for me to select from this list a few and give them special
prominence where hundreds have contributed to the life and growth of the
association all these many years until the present enviable place now
occupied by the association has been attained. To the executive board of
the society, most of whom have been members of the board for a long
period of years, of course the success of the association is especially
due. Men of initiative in an ambitious and unselfish way working for
the success of the association, they have had very much indeed to do
with its progress.
As I endeavor to recall the personality of those who have been of
special service to us I find the list almost without limit. With what
pleasure and satisfaction have I been permitted to serve with the
members of this society! What willingness to perform the duties
suggested has ever characterized the assistance that has been rendered
by the membership of this society! It has been an exceedingly rare thing
for any member to offer an objection to undertaking any service asked of
him, and with such support as this so readily and heartily given, and
often at large expense to the member, what can be expected other than
such success as has come to our society. I wish I had the ability to
express at this time the thought that is in my heart as I recall all of
these helpful brothers and sisters to whom indeed belongs as much as to
the writer any distinction that comes to the society as a result of
these years of labor.
Notwithstanding the State University have seen fit to refer to this in a
way to indicate that our society has reached some certain vantage
ground, it must not be lost sight of that the real work of the society
is still before it. Whether to be carried on under the present
management or under a changed management we have a right to look ahead
and anticipate the definite and widely expanding results that are still
to come from the services of the members of the society, which we are
sure in the future, as in the past, will be heartily rendered.
A. W. LATHAM, Secy.
June-Bearing Strawberries.
GEO. J. KELLOGG, RETIRED NURSERYMAN, JANESVILLE, WIS.
Any fool that knows enough can grow strawberries, which reminds me of
the preacher in York State who both preached and farmed it. He was
trying to bore a beetle head and could not hold it; a foolish boy came
along and said, "Why don't you put it in the hog trough?" "Well! Well!"
the preacher said. "You can learn something from most any fool." The boy
said, "That is just what father says when he hears you preach." I don't
expect to tell you much that is new, but I want to emphasize the good
things that others have said:
_Soils._ I once had twenty-one acres of heavy oak, hickory, crab apple
and hazel brush, with one old Indian corn field. I measured hazel brush
twelve feet high, and some of the ground was a perfect network of hazel
roots; the leaf mould had accumulated for ages. The first half acre I
planted to turnips, the next spring I started in to make my fortune. I
set out nineteen varieties of the best strawberries away back in the
time of the Wilson, than which we have never had its equal. The plants
grew well and wintered well, but they did not bear worth a cent, while
just over the fence I had a field on ground that had been worked twenty
years without manure that gave me two hundred and sixty bushels to the
acre. It took three years with other crops to reduce that loose soil
before I could make strawberries pay. My fortune all vanished.
Last June while judging your strawberry show, I found a large collection
of twenty-five kinds of the poorest strawberries I ever saw, grown on
the college grounds. I visited the field, found over a hundred
varieties, well tallied, well cultivated, on new oak opening soil. First
crop, the soil seemed ideal, every thing good except the plants and the
fruit. The foliage was defective and the fruit very poor. Was it the new
soil?
I have always found good garden soil would produce good strawberries;
the best beds were those that followed potatoes. Cut worms and white
grubs seldom follow two years of hoed crops.
[Illustration: Mr. Geo. J. Kellogg ten years ago]
_Preparation._ Preparation for the best strawberries should be started
three years before planting. Using soil from sand to clay, well drained,
well manured, sowed to clover, take off the first cutting of clover,
then more manure plowed under deep with the second crop of clover, as
late as can before freezing up, to kill insects and make the soil
friable and ready for a crop of potatoes the next spring. After
harvesting 300 bushels of potatoes to the acre use a heavy coat of well
rotted manure without weed seed, plowed under late in fall. The
following spring, as soon as the ground will work, thoroughly disk and
harrow, and harrow twice more. Then roll or plank it, mark both ways two
by four feet, set by hand either with dibble or spade, no machine work.
Crown even with the surface, with best of plants from new beds, leaving
on but two leaves, and if the roots are not fresh dug, trim them a
little. Firm them good.
Now start the weeder and go over the field every week till the runners
start, then use the nine-tooth cultivator with the two outside teeth two
inches shorter than the others. Cultivate every week till the middle of
October. Use the hoe to keep out all weeds and hoe very lightly about
the plants. Weeds are a blessing to the lazy man, but I don't like to
have it overdone. Don't let the soil bake after a rain. Keep the
cultivator running. In garden work a steel tooth rake is a splendid
garden tool.
Volume 1905, page 230 (An. Report Minn. State Hort. Society). Mr. Schwab
gets an ideal strawberry bed, then kills it with twelve inches of mulch.
If the ice and snow had not come perhaps the plants would have pulled
through. Volume 41, page 390. Mr. Wildhagen gives an ideal paper on
strawberries, it will pay you to read it again and again. Instead of one
year's preparation, I would have three.
_Winter Protection._ Unless in an exposed place, marsh hay is the best
and cleanest mulch, but high winds may roll it off. Clean straw away
from the tailings of the machine is next best. For small acreage if one
inch can be put on as soon as the ground is frozen a half inch, it will
save the many freezings and thawings before winter sets in. For large
acreage it is not practical to cover till frost will hold up a loaded
wagon. Two inches of mulch, that covers the plants and paths from sight
is enough, but I see you cover deeper, from four to twelve inches in
Minnesota, and often smother the plants. If we could have a snow blanket
come early and stay on late in spring, that would protect the plants,
but we want the mulch also to protect from drouth and keep the berries
clean. A January thaw is liable to kill out any field that is not
properly mulched.
A two inch mulch will not hinder the plants coming through in spring;
four inches will require part of the mulch raked into the paths; if
plants don't get through readily loosen the mulch. I have known some
successful growers to take off all the mulch from the paths in spring
and cultivate lightly but thoroughly, then replace the mulch to protect
from drouth and to keep the berries clean, but I don't think it pays.
_Weeds._ In the best fields and beds I ever saw there will come up an
occasional weed in spring, and it pays to go over the ground with a
spade or butcher knife and take out such weeds. We almost always get a
drouth at picking time, better a drought than too much rain. A good
straw mulch will usually carry us through.
_Irrigation._ If irrigation is attempted the fields must be prepared
before planting to run water through between the rows. Sprinkling will
not do except at sundown. Rain always comes in cloudy weather; you
cannot wet foliage in sun in hot weather without damage. A good rainfall
is one inch, which is a thousand barrels to the acre, so what can you do
with a sprinkling cart? Showers followed by bright sunshine damage the
patch.
If your plants are set too deep they rot, if too high they dry, if not
well firmed they fail. When I have used a tobacco planter I have had to
put my heel on every plant. Of course you know that newly planted June
varieties must have the blossom buds cut out, and everbears bearing must
also till July.
_Picking._ The man who has acres to pick must secure his boxes the
winter before and have at least part of them made up if they are to be
tacked. I have found a boy can make up boxes as fast as thirty pickers
can fill. If you use the folding box no tacks are needed. Too many boxes
made up ahead are liable to be damaged by the mice.
_Pickers._ Engage your pickers ahead; agree on the price and that a part
of the pay is to be kept back till the close of the season, which is
forfeited if quitting before time. If pickers are too far away,
transportation must be furnished--free boxes of berries are appreciated
by the pickers.
_Marketing._ Sometimes the marketing of the fruit is harder than the
growing of it. If enough is grown form an association to sell it, get
advice from a successful association how to form and how to run it.
Sometimes a well made wagon, a good team and a good man can sell from
house to house in the country and city and make good returns. In this
way you get back your crates and part of the boxes. I know a successful
grower in Iowa, who sold his crop of ten acres to the farmers and city
people, they doing their own picking and furnishing their own boxes, at
a given price. All the proprietor had to do was sit at the gate and take
in the cash. It is worth a good deal to know how to grow the best of
strawberries and often it is worth more to know how to turn them into
cash.
_What Varieties?_ Dunlap and Warfield have a general reputation for
profit, can be picked together and sell well; dark color, good canners
and good shippers. If you want a third variety take Lovett. Some of your
growers want nothing but Bederwood, but it is too light and too soft to
ship, though it is a good family berry. I expect Minnesota No. 3 will
soon be the only variety you will want of the June kinds.
_Insects._ Winter drouth often injures the roots and some lay it to
insects. The winter of 1899 was the worst winter drouth I ever knew; it
killed every thing. If you are troubled with the crown borer, root lice,
leaf roller or rust, grow one crop and plow under, or move your fields a
good distance from the old bed. What shall be done with the old bed? If
you have insects or rust plow under and get the best place to start a
new bed, and don't set any of your own plants if you have insects or
rust--and be sure you buy of a reliable grower.
_Old Beds._ If the first crop is big, plow under, if light and you have
a good stand of plants, no insects or rust, you can mow and teddy up the
mulch and in a high wind burn it over--a quick fire will do no harm.
Then you can plow two furrows between rows and drag it every way till
not a plant is seen. Soon, if the rows are left a foot wide, the plants
will come through. Then manure (better be manured before plowing), and
you may get a good second crop. Some mow and rake off and burn outside
the bed, then with a two horse cultivator dig up the paths and cultivate
and get the ground in condition. Put on the manure and hoe out part of
the old plants.
I like the plan of Wildhagen; mow, burn and then cover three inches deep
with one hundred big loads of manure to the acre and don't go near the
patch till picking time next year. He gets a nice early crop, and if
berries are a little small it pays better than any other way. Try it! I
have known some fields carried to fourth crop, and amateur beds kept up
for ten years. It takes lots of work to keep an old bed in good
condition. J.M. Smith, of Green Bay, Wis., almost always took one crop
and plowed under. If the first crop was injured by frost, he took a
second crop. He raised four hundred bushels to the acre.
Wm. Von Baumbach, of Wauwatosa, Wis., raised from five acres less ten
square rods seventeen hundred bushels big measure beside quantities
given the pickers. I have had beds and fields where I have timed my boys
picking a quart a minute. I had one small boy that picked 230 quarts a
day. But in all my sixty years growing strawberries I never properly
prepared an acre of ground before planting. I could take a five acre
patch now, as young as I am, and beat anything I have ever done.
_Mulch._--For mulch for small beds, if straw or marsh hay is not handy,
use an inch of leaves, then cut your sweet corn and lay the stalks on
three inches apart and your plants will come up between in spring and
give you clean fruit. Cut cornstalks are good for field covering, also
shredded cornstalks. I have used the begass from the cane mill, but it
is too heavy. Evergreen boughs are very good if well put on for small
beds.
In my paper, Vol. 1911, page 180 (Minn. Report), it should read five
bushels to the square _rod, not acre_. Who ever heard of five bushels an
acre!
_Big Yields._--You all know of Friend Wedge's 74-3/4 quarts from one
square rod of Everbearers the season of planting. I believe that can be
beaten. Let our society put a few hundred dollars in premiums for best
yield of square rod of everbearers and of June varieties, and of a
quarter of an acre; also the best product of one hill, and the best
product of one plant, and its runners fourteen months from planting. I
believe one plant of everbearers can produce a quart the season of
setting. I know of the five bushels to the square rod, and the other
fellow had four and a half bushel of Wilson.
Surprise Plum a Success.
C. A. PFEIFFER, WINONA.
I realize at the outset that I am treading on delicate ground in
undertaking to defend the Surprise plum, on account of it having been
discarded by our fruit list committee, but after seeing our young trees
producing this year their third consecutive heavy crop I feel justified
in taking exception to the action of the committee. My first experience
with the Surprise plum dates back to 1897, when Mr. O. M. Lord, of
Minnesota City, probably the best authority on the plum in the state in
his time, presented me with one tree, which at that time were being sold
at $1.00 each, and I was cautioned against giving it too much care or I
would kill the tree, and that is just what happened to it.
[Illustration: C. A. Pfeiffer, Winona.]
The following year, 1898, I bought twenty-five trees from Mr. Lord and
planted them late in March, on very sandy land on a southerly slope,
pruning the trees back almost to a stump. These trees were very slow in
getting started but made a satisfactory growth before the season was
over. They commenced to bear the third year after planting, and are
still producing good crops, but it is my more recent experience with
this variety that finally induced me to prepare this article. In the
spring of 1909, we set out 160 plum trees, on rich, black, loamy soil on
low land, nineteen of them being Surprise, the other varieties being,
according to numbers, Terry, Ocheeda, Stoddard, Hawkeye, Bursota, Wolf,
Omaha also a few Jewell, DeSoto, Forest Garden, American and Stella. The
Surprise trees bore a crop in 1913, again in 1914, and 1915, making it
to the present time not only the most productive but the most profitable
variety on our place. While we did not keep an accurate record of the
exact yield in 1913 and 1914, some of the trees produced fully five 16
quart cases in 1913. A fair average would perhaps be about four cases
per tree. In 1914 the crop was somewhat lighter, yielding an average of
three cases per tree. This year we picked and sold eighty-five cases,
which brought us a gross revenue of $79.60. We lost part of the crop on
account of continual rain in the picking season, or we would have had
fully 100 cases. Nine of the trees being in a more sheltered location
than the other ten held their fruit better during the growing season,
and produced a relatively heavier crop than the ten that were exposed to
our fierce winds all summer.
We have never been able to supply the demand for them, at good prices,
while other varieties went begging at any kind of a price. Among their
good qualities with us are productiveness, good size, extra fine quality
and attractive color. They are delicious to eat out of hand just as they
are ripe enough to drop from the tree. They are fine for canning,
preserving or jelly. They are practically curculio proof, and have never
been affected with brown rot as have some other varieties. Aphis never
bothers them, while Terry and some other varieties nearly had the whole
crop ruined by this pest in 1914. The branches form good, strong
shoulders at the trunk and do not split or break down in heavy storms or
under their heavy loads of fruit, as the Terry and Forest Garden do. The
flower buds and fruit form as freely on the new growth as on the old
spurs. The crop is therefore about evenly distributed all over the tree,
and while we picked almost eight cases from one tree this year it did
not appear to be overloaded, as some varieties frequently are, the
Surprise tree always being capable of maturing all the fruit that sets.
We have shipped them 300 miles by freight with perfect success, but we
pick them from the tree before fully ripe. If allowed to ripen on the
tree they drop badly, which bruises and damages them. The trees are
thrifty, vigorous growers with beautiful glossy foliage that can be
distinguished from all other varieties.
You would note on examination of the buds that we have promise of
another crop next year, but this will depend somewhat on the weather
during the blooming season. We attribute one of the reasons for our
success with the Surprise plum to the fact that they are planted among
and alongside of varieties that have the same season of blooming, and
which undoubtedly are good pollenizers, namely the Bursota, Wolf,
Ocheeda and Omaha. The bloom of Surprise being almost sterile, they
will not be a success planted alone.
[Illustration: A Surprise plum tree growing on the place of Prof. A.G.
Ruggles. It bore in 1914 four bushels, having been well sprayed with
arsenate of lead and bordeaux mixture.]
You will perhaps ask if there are no faults or diseases they are subject
to, and we will state, for one thing, the fruit drops too easily when
ripe, and you will either have to pick them before fully matured or find
a good many of them on the ground. They are also occasionally subject to
blossom blight, which was rather a benefit, as it thinned the crop out
to about the proper proportion. We also had considerable plum pocket and
fungous growth one season about ten years ago. Such has been our
experience with the Surprise plum--and will again repeat that until the
society finds a plum equally as good or better, instead of discarding it
on account of unproductiveness and recommending such poor quality
varieties as Wolf, DeSoto and some others, our learned horticulturists
should make a special study of this variety and ascertain the cause of
its unproductiveness, and also to what localities in the state it may be
adapted.
Mr. Pfeiffer: Right here I will say to those gentlemen who are looking
for a cure for brown rot or curculio, they had better plant Surprise
plums. (Applause.)
Pres. Cashman: I am glad the Surprise plum has at least one good friend
in this audience. I think it has several.
Mr. Ludlow: What has been your experience with the Ocheeda? I see you
mention it.
Mr. Pfeiffer: The Ocheeda at the present time, I am sorry to say, I am
disappointed with. I planted some fifteen years ago, and they were nice
large plums, as you have described, and they were on sandy soil. I have
twenty Ocheeda trees now, and they are quite badly subject to brown rot.
Their quality is very nice to eat from the tree out of hand, nice and
sweet.
Mr. Street: I want to second everything Mr. Pfeiffer has said. I joined
this society about twelve years ago, and it was through studying the
reports of this society that I got interested in the native plum. The
Surprise plum does very well with us in Illinois. Professor Hansen is
one of those that are responsible for my starting in with the Surprise.
It was years ago at our state meeting that he mentioned that as one of
the good plums for Northern Illinois. Well, I put it alongside of the
Wyant and the native plums that are of the same sort. I may state the
conditions under which we grow them. We always cultivate before bloom,
cultivate thoroughly. Before the growth starts we give them a very
thorough spraying with lime-sulphur spray; then just before the bloom,
just before the blossoms open, as late as we can wait, we use about 1 to
40 or 50 of the lime-sulphur solution, also put in three pounds of
arsenate of lead. Then after the blossoms fall we use the same spray
again, perhaps two weeks after that again, and we keep that up for about
four times. We have had abundant crops, and they have been very
profitable.
Pres. Cashman: I am very glad to know that the Surprise plum has friends
in Illinois, and we are also pleased to know that Mr. Street is with us
and we hope to hear from him later. The president of the Wisconsin
Horticultural Society, Mr. Rasmussen.
Mr. Rasmussen: I will say the Surprise plum has given just about the
same results with us--it is the most profitable we have.
Mr. Sauter: I was over to the Anoka county fair; it was the first part
of September, and all the other plums weren't ripe, all the stuff they
had in was green. But all the Surprise were ripe, so that certainly must
be an early ripener.
Mr. Pfeiffer: Not especially early.
Mr. Hall: I was certainly glad to hear Mr. Pfeiffer so ably defend the
Surprise plum. The Surprise plum was the only one I got any good from.
The DeSoto, Wolf and Stoddard and all those, the brown rot got them, but
the Surprise plum had perfect fruit. I am surprised that it has a black
eye from the society.
Mr. Pfeiffer: Your location is where?
Mr. Hall: Sibley County.
Mr. Kellogg: Thirteen years ago I set out a root graft that made about
five feet of growth and just as quick as it got big enough to bear it
was loaded with Surprise plums, but since then it hasn't been worth a
cent.
Mr. Miller: If Mr. Pfeiffer had been in my orchard he could not have
given us a better description of it than he did, of the Surprise plum. I
set it out about fifteen years ago. I think I paid sixty cents for those
seedlings, they stood about three and one-half feet. I never had brown
rot in them. When I set them out I put them with other varieties and set
them so the inside ones would fertilize the outside ones. Afterwards I
set these on the east side of the orchard, where they got protection
from the west wind. They have borne almost every year, and this year
they are the only ones we had a crop on.
Pres. Cashman: I think we get as near to agreeing on this question as on
most others. It is suggested that we find out how many have had success
and how many have had failures with the Surprise plum. All those who
have been successful in raising Surprise plums will please raise their
hands. (Certain hands raised.) Now, hands down. Those who have been
unsuccessful will please raise their right hands. (Other hands raised.)
It seems there were more successes than failures.
A Member: It has been mentioned that the frost this year killed the plum
crop. I noticed in my orchard previous to that frost when we had a snow
storm, I noticed that the blossoms dried up and fell from the trees
before that hard frost. I think the question of success or failure with
the Surprise, as with other plums, is sort of comparative. I don't know
of any plum of the Americana type that we have a success with every year
any more than any other. So it is relative. I would like to ask if
anyone had the same experience with the blossoms drying and falling off
the trees before that frost.
Mr. Crawford: Perhaps the gentleman will recall the fact we had two
nights in succession of quite severe frost. The first night it was
almost a freeze, and the second we had the snow storm which is given
credit for the plum failure.
Mr. Anderson: The gentleman who read the paper, he is from Winona, where
he has a very much better location for any kind of fruit than the
general run of the state. The other gentleman is from Illinois. Now,
this good location near Winona and the temperature down in Illinois,
does that favor the Surprise plum, and has it anything to do with their
success and our failure?
Pres. Cashman: We will have to leave that to the audience.
Mr. S.D. Richardson: Down in Winnebago I got three trees from the
originator of the Surprise plum, and while I was at the nursery I never
saw any plums, but I propagated some from there and a man in our town
has some Surprise plums from it, and since I left the nursery I think
the man has had some plums from them. I got them from Mr. Penning when
they were first originated, but they never bore plums for me. I had no
other plums around there. Perhaps if they need pollen from other plums
they didn't get it, and this man that has had the first success with
them he had other plums near them. Perhaps that is the secret. The tree
is hardy and good, and if you can get a crop of plums by having
something else to fertilize them, the Surprise plum is all right.
Pres. Cashman: I think Mr. Richardson has struck the keynote to a
certain extent, we must put them near another variety to pollenize them.
Northeast Demonstration Farm and Station.
W. J. THOMPSON, SUPT., DULUTH.
Last May the Station orchard was set out, the same consisting of about
516 apple trees with a fringe of cherries and plums. The apples
consisted of year old stock (purchased the year preceding and set in
nursery rows) and included these six varieties: Duchess, Patten's
Greening, Okabena, Wealthy, Hibernal, Anisim. Good growth was made the
past season and the stock went into winter quarters in good shape.
However, 20 per cent died, the loss being in this order: Wealthy,
Anisim, Hibernal, Pattens' Greening--Okabena and Duchess were tied for
smallest loss. In addition to the above, we made a considerable planting
of small fruits, principally currants and gooseberries, together with a
limited quantity of blackberries and raspberries. Twelve varieties of
strawberries were set out, each including 100 plants. All made a
splendid growth this season. An interesting test is under way in the
dynamiting work. Alternate trees have been set in blasted holes, a stick
about one and one-half inches long being sufficient to make a hole three
feet in diameter and perhaps twenty inches in depth. It is yet too early
to measure the results of this work, but owing to the nature of the
subsoil in this region, we are looking for splendid results. With regard
to the stock secured from the Fruit Farm, we have not been uniformly
successful. Much of the stock seems to be weak and dies readily from
some cause unknown to us. Next season we should be able to render a more
complete report, as our work will then be fairly started.
Annual Report, 1915, West Concord Trial Station.
FRED COWLES, SUPT., WEST CONCORD.
[Illustration: Fred Cowles at home.]
Of the new varieties of plums that I received from the Fruit-Breeding
Farm most all have done well. The only one that has borne is No. 21.
This one had two plums on last season, and several this. They were a
medium size red plum, very good flavor, and seem to come into bearing
very young. No. 17 is a very thrifty grower, but when it bears that will
tell what it is worth. Hansen's plums are doing well, but we believe
they are more adapted to a better drained soil than we have here, as we
are on a heavy prairie soil. But these varieties are very thrifty and
bear so young.
The grapes have all stood the winter with no protection and have not
killed back any. We expect some fruit next season.
The raspberries that we received have all done well. No. 4 seems to take
the lead for flavor and is a good grower.
Notwithstanding the cold season our strawberry crop was very good, and
we are much impressed with No. 3, it is so strong and healthy; it is
just the plant for the farmer, as it will thrive under most any
condition. I believe it will fight its way with the weeds and come out
ahead.
We reported very favorably on the Heritage when it was in bloom, but it
does not set enough fruit to pay for its space. The berries are large
but very few on my grounds. I will discard it.
Our apple crop was very good, especially Duchess, Wealthy and
Northwestern Greening. We have been trying some of the tender varieties
top-worked. Northern Spy gave us five nice apples on a two year graft.
We also have Jonathan, Talman Sweet and King David doing well. Delicious
grafted three years ago has not fruited yet.
This has been a splendid summer for flowers, and they seemed to enjoy
the damp, cool season, especially the dahlia. If you have not tried the
Countess of Lonsdale you should; it is a cactus dahlia and a very free
bloomer. Everblooming roses did well--we had them in October.
* * * * *
PLANT LICE ON BLOSSOMS.--Aphids infesting the apple buds
appeared in serious numbers during the present season in the Illinois
University orchards when the buds began to swell. They were also
observed in neighboring orchards. In 1914, apple aphids caused serious
damage in certain counties in Illinois, and some damage was reported
from many sections of the state.
The aphids attack the opening buds, the young fruits, the growing
shoots, and the leaves, sucking the plant juices from the succulent
parts by means of long, very slender, tube-like beaks, which they thrust
through the skins of the affected organs into the soft tissues beneath.
They weaken the blossom buds by removing the sap; they dwarf and deform
the apples so that varieties of ordinary size frequently fail to grow
larger than small crab apples, and the fruits have a puckered appearance
about the calyx end; they suck the juice from the growing shoots,
dwarfing them; and they cause the leaves to curl, and if the insects are
present in large numbers, to dry up and fall off. They are more
injurious to the growth of young trees than of old trees. In old trees
their chief injuries are on the fruit.
This species of aphids are easily killed in the adult stage by certain
contact sprays. Winter applications of lime sulphur cannot be depended
on to destroy eggs. Poison sprays such as arsenate of lead are not eaten
by this type of insect, and consequently are ineffective remedies for
aphids. Kerosene emulsion is effective but is uncertain in its effect on
the foliage of the trees. The best available sprays are the tobacco
decoctions, of which the one most widely in use is "Black Leaf 40," a
proprietary tobacco extract, made by the Kentucky Tobacco Products
Company, Louisville, Kentucky. This material is used at the rate of one
gallon in one thousand gallons of spray. It may be combined with lime
sulphur, lime sulphur arsenate of lead, Bordeaux, or Bordeaux arsenate
of lead, not with arsenate of lead alone.
The ideal time to spray for these aphids is just as soon as all or
nearly all the eggs appear to have hatched. Observations made in the
University orchards this season indicate that all the eggs hatched
before the blossom buds began to separate. After the leaves expand
somewhat and the blossom buds separate, the aphids are provided with
more hiding places and are more difficult to hit with the spray.
Unfortunately, spraying at this time would require an extra application
in addition to the cluster bud (first summer) spray (made for scab,
curculio, bud moth, spring canker worms, etc.), and would thus add
seriously to the cost of the season's operations. Spraying for aphids at
the time of the cluster bud spray is, however, highly effective, and in
general it is advised that this method be followed. If, however,
previous experience has shown serious losses from aphids, or if they are
present in extremely large numbers, the extra application may be well
worth while.--Ill. Agri. Exp. Station.
Annual Report, 1915, Duluth Trial Station.
C. E. ROWE, SUPT., DULUTH.
[Illustration: A rosa rugosa hybrid rose grown by C. E. Rowe, Duluth.]
Although this was an off year for apples, results were probably as good
here as in other sections of the state. The spring gave promise of an
unusual crop, but the constant dropping of fruit during the summer
months left us with about two-thirds as many apples as were harvested in
1914. The quality was much poorer, owing to extremely cool weather and
the presence of scab in many localities.
The plum crop failed almost completely, and many trees were injured from
aphis attacks. I have never known the aphis so hard to control as they
were last summer.
Nearly all fruit trees made an excellent growth this season, and the new
wood was well ripened when the freeze-up came. The fall rains provided
plenty of moisture, and our trees should come through the winter in
excellent shape.
Raspberries and currants produced about one-half the usual crop this
year, probably owing to our May freeze.
Strawberries were almost a failure, largely due to winter-killing. Last
winter did more damage to perennial plants than any other winter within
the recollection of the writer. The fall was rather dry, and our snow
covering did not come until January.
We received from Supt. Haralson for trial four plum trees, variety No.
1; and fifty everbearing strawberry plants, variety No. 1017. Both plum
trees and strawberry plants made a good growth. Although the
strawberries were set heavily with fruit, but little of it ripened
before the heavy frosts came. The plant is very vigorous, and the berry
is large and of excellent quality.
Annual Report, 1915, Vice-President, Tenth Congressional District.
M. H. HEGERLE, SUPT., ST. BONIFACIUS.
On May 18th we had several inches of snow accompanied by a fierce
northwest wind, and orchards without any shelter suffered seriously, and
both apples and plums in such orchards were scarce and of a rather
inferior quality. A few orchards had a fair crop, while a couple of
others with a natural windbreak had a fairly good crop, but on an
average it was the lightest apple and plum crop we have had for some
time.
Mr. Beiersdorf and Mr. Swichtenberg report a good crop of Wealthy and
Peter. Their orchards are close to a lake and are well protected on the
north and west by a natural grove.
Of the twenty-four report blanks sent out, eleven were returned properly
filled in, and they all report conditions about as above outlined.
Cherries and grapes suffered even more from the cold than the apples,
and that crop was very light. My Homer cherry trees look healthy and are
growing fine, but the past two years had not enough fruit to supply the
birds.
Raspberries and strawberries were a good crop and of exceptional fine
quality, but the currants and gooseberries were a total failure in my
garden as well as elsewhere, according to all reports received.
There were not many fruit trees planted in this district the past year.
For instance, at this station the deliveries last spring consisted
principally of bundles containing one-half dozen or a dozen trees each,
and the total number delivered in that way did not exceed 200 trees and,
according to all information, the planting throughout this district was
very light.
I know of only one new orchard started with 700 four and five year old
trees. About 500 are Wealthys and the balance Patten Greenings. The
trees made a good start but were somewhat neglected during the summer,
the field being planted to corn and some to barley, and all was handled
rather rough.
There was very little blight in this district the past year. I noticed
just a little on two or three Transcendents, and Mr. Jos. Boll, who has
about 1,500 bearing trees, reports no blight at all.
I did no spraying this year, did not consider it worth while, as there
was no fruit, and most others felt the same way. Other years though a
lot of spraying is done, and the more progressive ones spray two and
three times.
There is plenty of moisture in the soil, and the trees are going into
winter quarters in good shape, therefore prospects for apple and plum
crop the coming season are excellent.
[Illustration: Residence of M. H. Hegerle, St. Bonifacius.]
Probably a hundred or more different kinds of apple and plum trees and
berries of all kinds are grown here. Farmers in the past usually bought
what the salesman recommended, just to get rid of him; lately though
they are taking more interest in the selection, and the Wealthy,
Patten's or Northwestern Greenings, Okabena, Peter and perhaps a few
Duchess are about the only apple trees planted now. Surprise plums,
Dunlap and everbearing strawberries are the leaders.
Ornamental shrubs are found here of all names and descriptions and
colors, and they all seem to do well.
* * * * *
HONEY VINEGAR.--Vinegar made from honey has an exceptionally
fine flavor and is not expensive. A small amount of honey furnishes a
large amount of vinegar. Follow these directions: Dissolve thoroughly in
two gallons of warm, soft water one quart jar of extracted honey. Give
it air and keep it in a warm place, where it will ferment and make
excellent vinegar.--Missouri College of Agriculture.
Thirty Years in Raspberries.
GUST JOHNSON, RETIRED FRUIT GROWER, MINNEAPOLIS.
Of the growing of fruit, it may well be said, "Experience is a good
teacher, but a dear school."
When I began fruit growing, some thirty years ago, I did not begin it
merely as an experiment. I was interested in every branch of the work
and, being very much in earnest about it, I felt confident of success.
Thinking that the failures and drawbacks sometimes experienced could be
easily overcome by a thorough understanding of the work at hand, I began
by getting all the information possible. I found that great books such
as by Downing, Thomas, etc., were more suitable for the advanced fruit
grower, but I studied all the pamphlets and books obtainable during the
winter months and put this knowledge into practice during the summer. Of
course I could not put into practice all I had obtained from this
reading, but I remembered distinctly the advice to all amateur fruit
growers to start out slowly. This was particularly suited to my case,
for the land was covered with timber, some of which I grubbed each
summer, gradually adding acres as I cleared the land.
My first venture was in planting raspberries, planting potatoes between
the rows the first year. One delusion I had was in planting as many
different and untested varieties as I could afford to buy and not
confining myself to those that had been tried and had proven
satisfactory. Fortunately for me, the high cost of plants at this time
did not warrant my buying as many different varieties as I desired, and
I had to be contented with fewer plants. From the most promising of
these, I saved all the plants possible.
I had an idea that I could do better by sending to some of the Eastern
states for my plants, but here again I was mistaken, for the plants
often did not arrive until late in May, and by the time they had reached
their destination were practically all dried out. The warm weather then
coming on, I lost the greater part of them, although I had carefully
hoed and tended them in the hope that they would finally revive. Here I
might also mention that the express charges added considerably to the
cost of these already expensive plants.
As a beginner I put much unnecessary labor on these plants. While I do
not wish to leave the impression that hoeing and caring for them is not
all right, still there should be a happy medium which I later learned as
I became more experienced along this line. I must admit, however, that
this rich, new land thus cultivated certainly yielded some wonderful
fruit.
As time went by, I kept adding to my plantation, and owing to the large
yield and the good demand for the black caps I took a fancy to raising
them. When the Palmer variety was first introduced, I planted quite a
field of them. I shall never forget the way these berries ripened, and
such a lot of them as there were. Practically every one by this time
having planted black caps, their great yield soon overstocked the
market, and berries finally dropped as low as 65c or 70c a crate.
Having decided to dig up these black caps, I began paying closer
attention to the red raspberry. I noticed that the raspberries growing
wild on my place grew mostly in places where big trees had been cut down
and young trees had grown up, thus partly shading the plants. Having
this fact in mind, I planted the raspberries as follows: I planted an
orchard, having the trees in parallel rows, and between the trees in
these same rows I planted the raspberries. By planting in this manner,
the cultivation would benefit the trees as well as the smaller plants.
Of course after the trees began bearing heavily, the plants nearest the
trees had to be removed, and later the other plants likewise were
removed.
As a beginner it was a puzzle to me which varieties I should plant. All
varieties listed in the numerous catalogs were so highly recommended as
being hardy, large yielders, good shippers, etc., that the selection of
plants was not an easy matter.
The speed with which a new variety of raspberry is sent out over the
country and discarded is surprising. The most popular sort at this time
was the "Turner" variety. I did not, however, fancy this variety, for it
suckered so immensely that it required continual hoeing to keep the new
plants cut down. The berries were unusually soft and settled down in the
boxes, which greatly detracted from their appearance in the crates.
There were also at this time a few of the "Philadelphia" variety being
planted. They are a dark, soft variety and somewhat similar to the
Turner.
Just at this time there was being sent out a new variety, known as the
Cuthbert, or Queen of the Market, and queen it was indeed. This was a
large, firm berry, and after ripening it would remain on the plant a
long time without falling off. These plants grew up in remarkably long
canes, but not knowing how to head them back they would often topple
over during a heavy storm. This added another valuable lesson to my
increasing experience, which resulted in my pinching of the new canes as
soon as they had attained a height of from three to four feet. This made
the plants more stocky and more able to support their load of berries
without the aid of wire or stakes.
Next came the Marlboro, plants of which sold at as much as a dollar
apiece in the east. I then set out a bed of Marlboro, which proved to be
even better than the Cuthbert, previously mentioned. They could be
picked while still quite light in color, thus reaching the market while
still firm and not over-ripe. There was only one possible drawback, and
that was the fact that I had planted them on a southern exposure, while
they were more adapted to a colder or northern exposure. This variety on
a new field, as it was, practically bore itself to death.
About this time, there originated in Wisconsin a berry known as the
Loudon. A committee of nurserymen having gone to see this variety
returned with the report that the half had not been told concerning this
great berry. Wanting to keep up with the times, I decided to plant some
of this variety in the spring. The yield from these plants was immense,
and the berries large, but unlike the Marlboro already mentioned they
could not be picked until very dark and real ripe. This variety was more
subject to anthracnose than any I had seen, and served to give me a
thorough understanding of the various raspberry diseases, which I had
heretofore blamed to the drouth. The leaves would dry up and the berries
become small and crumbly when affected by anthracnose. It might be said
of this variety as regards public favor, that it went up like a rocket
and came down equally fast.
I next tried the Thompson Early as an experiment, but this variety
proved a failure, or at least a disappointment. These berries ripened
very slowly, just a few at a time, and did not compare favorably with
either the Marlboro or the Loudon.
A party close by had at this time planted out a large field of a variety
of raspberry which I had not seen before. These plants produced a large
berry, more like a blackberry in appearance. Having by this time had
experience with so many kinds of raspberries, I examined this new
variety carefully, and all in all decided that this was the coming
berry. Here, too, I also noticed the first signs of disease. The plants
had only begun to bear fruit, however, and judging from the strong,
tall canes, they looked good for at least fifteen years. This disease,
however, practically destroyed the entire field within two years. Before
too badly diseased, I had obtained and planted out a couple of acres of
these plants and immediately began spraying them. The following spring I
sprayed them again, and although the plants became perfectly healthy, I
sprayed them once or twice during the summer, and it is needless to say
the result was a berry which, considering all its good points, was
certainly deserving of the name it bore, which was "King." In fact, I do
not hope to see anything better in the raspberry line during the next
thirty years, that is, any seedling having all its merits: a strong
growth, hardiness of cane, an immense bearer and a good shipper. It's
only fault is that the berries will drop from the plants when real ripe,
but if you are on the job this can easily be averted.
As far as anthracnose is concerned, I have found that there is not a
variety of raspberry standing out in an open field, unsprayed or partly
shaded, that will stand up under a heavy crop without being affected by
this disease.
After increasing my plantation, as I had by this time, I found I
required more help. Ability in managing my helpers was a necessity. My
experience with them in the field was that when I set them to hoeing a
newly set raspberry field if not watched they would destroy half the
roots, loosening the little hold the struggling plants had, by cutting
close and hoeing the soil away from the roots. I have seen supposedly
intelligent men plowing alongside of the plants, thinking they were
doing their work so much more thoroughly, but if they would dig up one
plant before plowing and another after, they would readily see the
results of their plowing.
A born farmer assumes that everybody knows how to handle a hoe or a
plow, but why should they, not having had practical experience? When put
to work such as hoeing, they would make the most outlandish motions with
the hoe, often destroying valuable plants, not being able to distinguish
them from the weeds. Though they may labor just as hard, they cannot
possibly accomplish as much as the expert who can skillfully whirl a hoe
around a plant in such a manner as to remove every weed and yet not
injure the plant in the least. In other words, the best efforts of the
novice cannot possibly bring the results so easily accomplished by the
more skillful laborer. Except in a few cases, I have found inexperienced
help a discouragement.
In hiring pickers who had to come quite far each morning, I found that
if the morning had been wet and rainy, but had later turned out to be a
nice day, they would not come at all. The sun coming out after these
showers would cause the berries to become over-ripe and to drop from the
bushes, or if still on the bush would be too ripe for shipping. These
same pickers, when berries were scarce, would rush through the rows,
merely picking the biggest and those most easily acquired.
Having tried pickers as mentioned, I decided that to get pickers from
the city and board them would be the better plan. While they seemed to
work more for the pleasure connected with life on the farm than with the
idea of making money, yet after a little training and a few rules, most
of them would make splendid pickers, and my berries being carefully
picked and in first class condition, would readily sell to the best
trade.
Leaving the subject of berries and berry picking, I will dwell briefly
on my experience with the winter covering of the plants. At first I
would cover the canes in an arch-like manner, which would require more
than 18 inches of soil to cover them, and it was necessary to shovel
much by hand. In the spring I found it quite a task to remove all this
soil and get it back in place between the rows. After I learned to cover
them properly, that is flat on the ground, I found it required but a
small amount of soil to cover them, and in the spring it was only
necessary to use a fork to remove the covering, and with a little lift
they were ready to start growth again.
After getting more and more fruit, I found I could not dispose of it in
the home market, and tending to the picking and packing of the fruit did
not leave enough time to warrant my peddling it. I had been advised to
ship my berries to two or three different commission houses in order to
see where I could obtain the best results. I frequently divided my
shipments into three parts: consequently some of my fruit would meet in
competition with another lot of my fruit, and not only would one concern
ask a higher or lower price than the other, but they would not know when
to expect my shipments, which they would receive on alternate days. I
finally came to the conclusion that I would send all my fruit to one
party, and I found that it was not only more of an object to them, but
people would come every day to buy some, knowing they were getting the
same quality each time.
Although it has been my experience that the raspberry is never a
failure, still I have found that it is a good policy not to depend
entirely on the raspberry, but to extend the plantation in such a way as
to have a continuous supply of fruits and vegetables in season, from the
asparagus and pie plant of the early spring to the very latest variety
of the grape and apple ripening just before the heavy frost of fall,
when it is again time to tuck them all away for the winter.
Mr. Ludlow: Do I understand that you have to lay down and cover up those
red raspberries?
Mr. Johnson: Yes, sir; otherwise you only get a few berries right at the
top of the cane, and if you cover them the berries will be all along
down the cane.
The President: Do you break off many canes by covering them?
Mr. Johnson: No, it is the way you bend them. When you bend them down,
make a kind of a twist and hold your hand right near them. You can bend
them down as quick as a couple of men can shovel them down.
Mr. Anderson: Do you bend them north or south or any way?
Mr. Johnson: I generally bend one row one way and the other the other
way. Where you want to cultivate, it is easier for cultivation; you
don't have to go against the bend of those plants. That bend will never
be straight again, and when you come to cultivate you are liable to rub
them.
Mr. Anderson: How far have you got yours planted apart?
Mr. Johnson: About five feet.
Mr. Sauter: What is your best raspberry?
Mr. Johnson: I haven't seen anything better than the King.
Mr. Sauter: Do you cover the King?
Mr. Johnson: Yes.
Mr. Sauter: We don't do it on the experimental station. I never covered
mine, and I think I had the best all around berry last summer.
Mr. Johnson: That might be all right when they are young, but I find it
pays me.
A Member: Don't they form new branches on the sides when you pinch off
the ends?
Mr. Johnson: Yes, sir; then you pinch them off.
A Member: Don't they break right off from the main stalk in laying down?
Mr. Johnson: No, no.
A Member: We have a great deal of trouble with that. How do you get
these bushy bushes to lie down?
Mr. Johnson: I take three or four canes, and kind of twist them, give
them a little twist, and lay them flat on the ground.
Mr. Anderson: Don't you take out any dirt on the sides?
Mr. Johnson: No, sir; sometimes I might put a shovel of ground against
them to bend the canes over.
Mr. Rogers: Do you plant in the hedge row or in the hill system?
Mr. Johnson: In the hedge row. I think it is better because they protect
one another.
Mr. Ludlow: How far do you put them apart in the hedge row?
Mr. Johnson: Four feet. That is the trouble with the King, if you don't
keep them down, your rows will get too wide.
A Member: I heard you say a while ago you covered these. Do you plow
them after you get them down or do you cover them with a shovel?
Mr. Johnson: I cover mostly with a shovel. Sometimes I take a small plow
through.
A Member: Don't you think in covering them with a plow you might disturb
the roots?
Mr. Johnson: That is the danger.
A Member: I saw a fellow covering up twelve acres of black caps and he
plowed them shut. After I heard what you said I thought maybe that he
was injuring his roots.
Mr. Johnson: You know the black cap has a different root system from the
reds. The roots of the reds will run out all over the road.
Mr. Willard: How thick do you leave those canes set apart in the row,
how many in a foot?
Mr. Johnson: I generally try to leave them in hills four feet apart, not
let them come in any between. About three or four in a hill. I generally
try to cut out the weak ones.
Mr. Willard: You pinch the end of the tops, I think?
Mr. Johnson: Yes, sir.
A Member: When do you cut those sucker canes?
Mr. Johnson: I generally hoe them just before picking time and loosen
the ground in the row. That is very important, to give them a hoeing,
not hoe down deep, but just loosen that hard crust there and cut all the
plants that you don't want, and then generally, after the berries
commence to ripen, your suckers don't come so fast, and you keep on
cultivating once in a while.
Mr. Brackett: I have some King raspberries, and I never covered them up
in ten years. I will change that. The first year I did cover a part of
my patch, at least one-half of them, and that left the other half
standing, and I couldn't see any difference. Around Excelsior there are
very few people that cover up the King raspberry. But the King raspberry
has run out; all of the old varieties have run out. We have at our
experiment station the No. 4--you can get double the amount of fruit
from the No. 4 than from the King. The best way to grow the King
raspberry or any other raspberry is to set them four feet apart and
cultivate them. If you grow a matted row you are bound to get weeds and
grass in there, you are bound to get them ridged up, but by planting in
hills and cultivating each way you can keep your ground perfectly level.
As far as clipping them back my experience has been it is very hard to
handle them--they will spread out. It is a big job to cover the plants
and then to uncover them again. I know it is not necessary with the No.
4; that is hardy. That is what we want. Hardiness is what we want in a
berry, and you have it in the No. 4.
Mr. Hall: I would like to ask you what you spray with and when you
spray?
Mr. Johnson: The bordeaux mixture. I spray them early in the spring and
just before they start to ripen.
Mr. Wick: With us the Loudon raspberry seems to be the coming raspberry.
Mr. Johnson: Is it doing well now?
Mr. Wick: Yes, it is doing well.
Mr. Ludlow: How many years is the planting of the King raspberry good
for?
Mr. Johnson: I think it would be good for fifteen years or more if they
are handled as I do it. Keep at the plant, hoeing and spraying them
twice a year; trim out the old wood and keep them healthy.
The President: You take out all the old wood every year?
Mr. Johnson: Yes, sir.
Mr. Ludlow: When do you do that?
Mr. Johnson: In the fall. I figure this way, every extra cane that you
grow on the plant is a waste. If I see a cane a little higher than the
others I just stop it, and it throws the sap back.
Mr. Berry: Do you fertilize and how and when?
Mr. Johnson: I found I didn't need much fertilizer. I put on wood ashes
and such things when I burn the trimming of the berries and such things.
A Member: When do you spray?
Mr. Johnson: I generally spray in the spring after they get started and
just before they are starting to ripen. I spray them sometimes when they
are starting to ripen, and the berries would pick up in one day.
A Member: You mean to say you could grow them for fifteen years without
fertilizing?
Mr. Johnson: Yes, sir.
* * * * *
KNOWLEDGE of the temperature of the pantry and cellar is
important, in order that one may make improvements in conditions.
Putrefaction will start at 50°, so that a pantry or closet where food is
kept should have a temperature at least as low as that. Cellars where
canned goods are stored should have a temperature of 32° or over. Apples
are frequently stored in outside cellars, where the temperature should
be kept at 31° or 32°; but apples may be kept satisfactorily at 34° or
36°. When stored at the higher temperatures, the fruit should be placed
there soon after being picked.
Annual Report, 1915, Nevis Trial Station.
JAS. ARROWOOD, SUPT., NEVIS.
We would say that the station is in good condition; all trees and
shrubbery have done well; no complaint as far as growth is concerned.
This being an off year for fruit in this section, the fruit crop in
general was light, the late frost and heavy rains destroying most all,
both wild and tame fruits.
The strawberries, raspberries and currants were fairly good; plums and
apples were very light, except some seedlings, both apples and plums,
which seemed to hold their fruit. Most all the large apples were
destroyed by the freeze, such as Duchess, Wealthy, Greening and
Hibernal. There were some of the Duchess seedlings that seemed to stand
all kinds of freezing.
[Illustration: Jas. Arrowood in his trial orchard, at Nevis, in Northern
Minnesota.]
Now in regard to the fruits that were sent here from Central station.
The majority are doing fairly well, especially in regard to strawberry
No. 3, which is doing splendidly and points to be the coming strawberry
of northern Minnesota. It is a good runner and has a large, dark
foliage. Plants that we left out last winter without covering came
through in splendid condition and made a heavy crop. In regard to the
fruit, it is of the best quality, large and firm and a good keeper. In
regard to raspberries, Nos. 1, 4 and 7 did very well, and stood the
winter without laying down, and bore a good crop.
In regard to the eighteen plum trees I received three years ago, Nos. 1,
4, 5, 6, 7, and 12 have done very well and have made a good growth, but
have had no fruit so far.
The sand cherry that was received the same year, No. 2, has done very
well and bore some fruit this last year of a fair quality.
Hansen cherries are doing fairly well and bore some fruit this year.
Now in regard to plums that were received in 1914 Nos. 2, 3, 8, 10, 13,
20, have all made a good growth. What was received in 1915 have all
grown.
The grapes that we received two years ago have made but little growth.
There were no grapes in this section this year; they all froze off about
twice.
I received at the county fair about sixteen first prizes on apples and
plums this year. We did considerable top-working, mostly on Hibernals
and native seedlings, which are doing very well. Some of our seedling
cherries are commencing to bear and show to be perfectly hardy. They are
of the Oregon strain of sweet cherry.
In regard to gardens, they were fairly good throughout the section. Corn
crop a failure.
In regard to the condition of the trees and shrubbery, this are going
into their winter quarters with lots of moisture and with a large amount
of fruit buds, with a good prospect for fruit next year.
* * * * *
DESTROYING PLANT LICE.--According to the results of experiments
a 10 per cent kerosene emulsion should prove effective against the green
apple aphis. The kerosene emulsion made either with 66 per cent stock,
10 per cent, or with naphtha soap and cold water, seemed to kill all the
green apple aphides. The 40 per cent nicotine solution, with a dilution
up to 1 to 2,000 combined with soap, were likewise effective
aphidicides. The kerosene emulsions under 10 per cent were not
satisfactory, neither were the soaps at the strengths tested, except
that fish-oil soap, 5 to 50, killed 90 per cent of the aphides. Laundry
soap, 3 to 50, was effective against the young aphides only. Arsenate of
lead alone, as was to be expected, had little or no effect upon the
aphides. The combination of arsenate of calcium with kerosene emulsions
is not a desirable one, since an insoluble calcium soap is formed,
thereby releasing some free kerosene.--U.S. Dpt. of Agri.
New Fruits Originated at Minnesota Fruit-Breeding Farm.
CHAS. HARALSON, SUPT., EXCELSIOR.
The subject on which I am to talk is rather difficult to present at this
time, but I will mention a few of the most promising new varieties.
[Illustration: The new and valuable hardy raspberry No. 4, growing at
State Fruit-Breeding Farm.]
We have developed several hundred new varieties of fruit since we
started fruit-breeding at the State Fruit Farm. Many of them are very
promising, but it probably will take several years before we really know
what we have that will be of value to the public.
We have been growing thousands of seedlings of apples, plums, grapes,
raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries and currants, from which
valuable varieties have been selected. All of them have been put under
propagation in a small way for testing at the Fruit Farm, trial
stations and many other places. Some very favorable reports from several
places have been received during the last year from parties who have
fruited these new creations. We also have some hybrid peach and apricot
seedlings which have stood the test of the last two winters. Some of
them blossomed very freely last spring, but on account of the hard
freeze in May they did not set any fruit. I hope to be able to report on
these another year.
[Illustration: Hybrid plum No. 21--at Minnesota State Fruit-Breeding
Farm.]
The results of breeding strawberries have given us one everbearing and
one June-bearing variety, which have been tested in many places
throughout the state. The June-bearing variety has been introduced as
Minnesota No. 3. The berries are almost identical with Senator Dunlap in
color and shape, but somewhat larger and, I think, more productive. The
plants are equal to Dunlap in hardiness, or more so, a stronger plant,
and a good plant-maker. The fruiting season is about a week earlier than
Dunlap. It is a firm berry and stands shipping a long distance. My
belief is that this variety will make one of the best commercial berries
for the Northwest.
The everbearing variety is known as No. 1017. It is a large, round
berry, dark red color, and is of the best quality. This variety is
strong and vigorous and a good plant-maker when blossoms are picked off
early in the season. It is also very productive. The blossoms and
berries on a number of plants were counted in October, and we found all
the way from 200 to 345 berries and blossoms on single plants. This is,
of course, a little more than the average, but it shows what it will do
under ordinary conditions. This variety has been growing next to
Progressive, on the same soil, with the same cultivation, and I think
that persons who have seen it this summer will agree with me that it is
far ahead of Progressive in size and productiveness. I will say right
here, if you expect to have a good crop of fruit in the fall, keep the
most of the runners off. If you encourage them to make runners, or
plants, you will have less fruit.
The raspberries sent out as Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7, are all worthy
of trial. The No. 4 has fruited several years and gave the best showing
so far. The fruit resembles the Marlboro somewhat, but the color is
darker. It is not one of very high quality, but the size of the berry
and its appearance will more then make up for this. The canes and
foliage are generally healthy and very hardy. This variety will be
planted very extensively just as soon as enough stock can be supplied to
fruit growers.
The Burbank crossed with Wolf, hybrid plums. There have been several of
these sent out to trial stations, and as premiums to members of the
Horticultural Society. I will mention them in order as to size of fruit.
No. 5, 12, 4, and 6 will measure 1-3/4 inch in diameter. Nos. 21, 10,
17, 9, and No. 1 are nearly as large. The kinds which have given best
all around satisfaction up to the present time, are Nos. 1, 6, 9, 10,
12, 17, 21 and 25. One or two years more trial should give us an idea
which ones will be worthy of general propagation.
There are also several varieties of Abundance and Wolf crosses which
have fruited for several years. The quality of the fruit of these
hybrids is probably somewhat better than the Burbank and Wolf hybrids,
but the fruit in most cases runs smaller. No. 35 is probably one of the
best; its fruit is about 1-1/2 inch in diameter, colors up all over
before it is ripe, and will stand shipping a long distance, as they can
be picked quite green and still are colored up all over. There are
several numbers equally, or nearly, as promising as No. 35.
Sand cherry X Satsuma plum No. 145 is in the same class as Sapa. The
color of the fruit is bluish black when ripe, the flesh purple, pit
small and nearly freestone; fruit ripens first part of August. This tree
is a strong grower and makes a large tree. We also have another plum,
Compass cherry X Climax, about the only variety which fruited this year.
The color of the skin is almost blue when fully ripe; the meat is green
and of a very pleasant flavor. The pit is small and clingstone; size of
fruit is about 1-1/2 inches in diameter. The tree is a strong, upright
grower. This variety has been propagated this summer. I will not try to
describe any more as there are some 2,000 hybrid plums on the place and
only a small per cent have fruited.
[Illustration: Ornamental Purple Leaf Plum, originated at State
Fruit-Breeding Farm.]
In grapes we have several varieties worthy of propagation, but I will
just mention two varieties. One is a red grape about the size of Wyoming
Red. The bunches are large and very compact; the season for ripening is
about with Moore's Early; the quality is good enough to make it a table
grape. The vine is just as hardy as Beta grape, of which it is a
seedling. It has good foliage and the vine is a rank grower. The other
variety is black when ripe, nearly as large as Moore's Early. The fruit
is ripe first part of August; the vine is vigorous and hardy.
Strawberries and raspberries were a good crop this year, but all other
fruit was a total failure on account of the killing frost and snowstorm
on May 18th. Apples were in full bloom at the time, and a good crop of
plums had set on the trees, but all fell off a few days later. There
were no currants or gooseberries and only a few grapes.
Mr. Waldron: What do you think the male parent was of the red grape?
Mr. Haralson: I couldn't say. We don't know what the cross is.
Mr. Waldron: Did you have any red grapes growing there?
Mr. Haralson: I presume there were quite a number of varieties growing
near by. In the Beta seedlings we find a number of grapes that ripen
green and also some black and a number red, but not a great many, I
would say from five to seven per cent of the seedlings.
Mr. Wellington: Have you been able to cross the European plum with the
Japanese?
Mr. Haralson: We have one or two varieties, but the fruit is very small,
the fruit isn't very much larger than the Compass cherry. The tree is a
very strong grower and makes a large tree, but the fruit is not up to
what it should be.
Mr. Cook: What number do you hold that red grape under?
Mr. Haralson: The red grape is No. 1.
Mr. Sauter: Which is the next best raspberry besides the No. 4?
Mr. Haralson: I couldn't tell you at present. I thought the No. 2, but
from reports I have had from several places some think No. 1 is better.
No. 4 is the best of them all so far.
A Member: I would like to ask which of those raspberries is the best
quality.
Mr. Haralson: They run very much the same, very little difference in the
quality. The quality I should say compares very favorably with the King.
The President: Those of you who know of the wonderful work done by Mr.
Haralson can not help but say, "Well done, good and faithful servant."
He has surely accomplished wonderful results out there, and the people
of this state and adjoining states will all in time enjoy the fruits of
his labor. (Applause.)
* * * * *
KILL WILD ONIONS IN NOVEMBER.--The secret of the vitality of
the wild onion lies in the two sorts of underground bulbs. Each plant
produces one large bulb, which germinates in the fall, and four or five
small ones, which start growth in the spring.
Late fall plowing, followed by early spring plowing and planting the
infested land to some clean cultivated crop destroys the wild onion pest
by killing both sorts of bulbs as the growth from them appears and
before they have a chance to multiply. The fall plowing should be deep,
and care should be taken to completely bury all green tops of the onion.
If very much top growth has been made, a harrow run before the plow will
facilitate the thorough covering of the tops.
Another interesting and valuable point about the wild onion is that the
spring bulbs rarely produce heads; consequently, if the infested land is
plowed in the fall, a spring oat crop practically free of onions can
always be secured. But for complete eradication of the onion, both fall
and spring plowing is necessary, and November is the best time to do the
fall work.
Annual Meeting, 1915, Wisconsin Horticultural Society.
CHAS. HARALSON, EXCELSIOR, MINN., DELEGATE.
The meeting was held January 5, 6 and 7, 1915, in the Assembly Room of
the State Capitol in Madison, Wis. Your delegate was present in time for
the opening session and given a chance with other delegates to deliver
the greetings of their societies.
The opening address by Governor Phillip was very interesting. He told of
the possibilities the State of Wisconsin offered fruit growers in a
commercial way with markets all around them. He advocated honest grading
and packing to obtain the top prices for the fruit. He also urged every
farmer to have a small orchard and fruit garden for home consumption.
Spraying and spray mixtures, illustrated, was ably presented by
Professor Geo. F. Potter, University of Wisconsin.
A speaking contest by ten students from University of Wisconsin competed
for prizes of $25.00, $15.00 and $10.00. This brought out almost every
phase of horticulture and was one of the most interesting sessions.
Commercial orcharding in the middle west was shown with moving pictures
and explanations by Sen. Dunlap, Savoy, Ill. These pictures illustrated
spraying, cultivating, harvesting, grading, packing, caring for the
fruit and marketing the same, and several other operations in connection
with uptodate commercial orcharding. He also gave a talk on spraying and
spraying materials. He said lime-sulphur is preferred in his locality.
A half hour question and answer session was led by Professor J.G. Moore,
University of Wisconsin, on pruning. This brought out a very lively
discussion about how to prune young orchards and what age of trees to
plant for commercial orchards. This question was not settled, as some
preferred one year old trees, while others would plant nothing but two
year old trees.
M. S. Kellogg, Janesville, Wis., spoke of nurserymen's troubles. His
paper was very interesting from a nurseryman's standpoint with all their
troubles and what they have to go up against.
C. O. Ruste, Blue Mounds, Wis., spoke about the farmer's orchard, what to
plant and how to care for the same.
The writer gave a paper, telling what is being done in the line of
fruit-breeding at the Minnesota Fruit-Breeding Farm.
The program was very full and interesting. The attendance, however, was
not very large. A very good exhibit of apples was on display in the
fruit room. The fruit was clean, well colored and up to size. Many
varieties, such as Jonathan, Fameuse, Baldwin, Windsor, Talman Sweet and
Wine Sap were on display in great quantities.
GARDEN HELPS
Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society
Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So.
Minneapolis.
At the annual meeting the following officers and members of the
Executive Committee were elected.
Officers--Mrs. E. W. Gould, President, 2644 Humboldt Ave. S.,
Minneapolis; Mrs. Phelps Wyman, Vice-President, 5017 Third Ave. S.,
Minneapolis; Mrs. M.L. Countryman, Secretary-Treasurer, 213 S. Avon St.,
St. Paul.
Directors--Mrs. F. H. Gibbs, St. Anthony Park; Mr. G. C. Hawkins,
Minneapolis; Miss Elizabeth Starr, Minneapolis; Mrs. H. A. Boardman, St.
Paul; Mr. F. W. Bell, Wayzata; Mr. F. F. Farrar, White Bear; Mrs. R. P.
Boyington, Nemadji; Mrs. J. F. Fairfax, Minneapolis; Mrs. H. B. Tillotson,
Minneapolis.
After a thorough discussion, it was unanimously agreed that more
frequent meetings would be advisable. Our program committee has,
therefore, planned for a meeting each month, alternating between St.
Paul and Minneapolis. It was, of course, impossible to set the dates for
the three flower shows so early in the year, or to announce all of the
speakers. The program in full for each month will appear on this page,
and we hope to save our secretary a great deal of routine work as well
as considerable postage to the society. So watch this page for
announcements. We hope the following program will prove both interesting
and profitable, and that our members will bring friends to each meeting,
all of which will begin at 2:30 o'clock _promptly_.
PROGRAM FOR 1916.
February 24. Wilder Auditorium, 2:30 p.m., Fifth and Washington St.,
St. Paul.
Soil Fertility, Prof. F. J. Alway.
Birds As Garden Helpers.
March 23. Public Library, Minneapolis, 2:30 p.m.
Work of the State Art Commission, Mr. Maurice Flagg.
How Can the Garden Flower Society Co-operate with It?
Our Garden Enemies.
Cultural Directions for Trial Seeds.
Distribution of Trial Seeds.
April 27. Wilder Auditorium, St. Paul, 2:30 p.m.
Native Plants in the Garden.
Roadside Planting.
Use and Misuse of Wild Flowers.
May. Date to be announced. Mazey Floral Co., 128 S. 8th, Minneapolis.
Informal Spring Flower Show.
What Our Spring Gardens Lack.
Good Ground Cover Plants.
June. Date to be announced. University Farm, St. Paul, Joint Session
with Horticultural Society. Flower Show.
July. Date to be announced. Minneapolis Rose Gardens, Lake Harriet.
Picnic Luncheon, 1:00 p.m.
Roses for the Home Garden.
Our Insect Helpers in the Garden.
August. Date to be announced. Holm and Olson, 2:30, 20 W. Fifth St., St.
Paul. Informal Flower Show.
How to Grow Dahlias.
The Gladiolus.
September 21. Public Library, Minneapolis, 2:30 p.m.
Fall Work in the Garden.
Vines.
Planting for Fall and Winter Effect.
October 19. Wilder Auditorium, St. Paul, 2:30 p.m.
What Other Garden Clubs Are Doing.
How My Garden Paid.
Reports on Trial Seeds.
November. Date to be announced. Park Board Greenhouses, Bryant Ave.
S. and 38th St., 2:30 p.m. Chrysanthemum Show.
Hardy Chrysanthemums.
December. Annual Meeting.
{MRS. PHELPS WYMAN,
Program Committee. {MRS. N. S. SAWYER,
{MISS ELIZABETH STARR,
{MRS. E. W. GOULD,
BEE-KEEPER'S COLUMN.
Conducted by FRANCIS JAGER, Professor of Apiculture, University
Farm, St. Paul.
QUEEN BEES FOR BREEDING.--Queen bees for breeding purposes will
be sent to beekeepers of the State from University Farm during the
coming summer with instructions how to introduce them and how to
re-queen the apiary. Mostly all bees in the state at present are
hybrids, which are hard to manage. In many localities bees have been
inbred for years, making the introduction of new blood a necessity. All
queens sent out are bred from the leather colored Italian breeding
queens of choicest stock obtainable. The price of queens will be fifty
cents for one, and not more than three will be furnished to each
beekeeper. Orders with cash must be sent directed to the "Cashier,"
University Farm, St. Paul, Minnesota. The queens will be sent out in
rotation as soon as they are ready and conditions are right.
SECRETARY'S CORNER
MEMBERSHIP NUMBERS CHANGE.--A good many members when sending in
annual membership fee give the number of their membership for the
previous year. Members will please note that membership numbers change
each year, as all members are numbered in the order of their coming upon
the membership roll. The only number that we care about in the office,
if for any reason it is necessary to give it, is the number for the
current year.
A WORD FROM PROF. WHITTEN.--Prof. J. C. Whitten, of the
University of Missouri, who was on the program at our annual meeting for
three numbers, and at the last moment was taken ill and unable to be
with us, has written describing the condition of his illness and
expressing his deep regret at his enforced absence from our meeting, and
a hope that at some other time he may have an opportunity to be with us.
We shall look forward to having him on our program another year with
eager anticipation. Prof. Whitten ranks as one of the most prominent of
professional horticulturists of the country, and we are certainly
fortunate in being able to secure his attendance, as we hope to do
another year.
MEMBERS IN FLORIDA.--Quite a number of members of the
Horticultural Society are spending the winter in Florida. Some of these
the secretary knows about, but addresses of only two are at hand. J. M.
Underwood, chairman of the executive board of the society, and family
are at Miami, Fla., for the winter. Mr. Oliver Gibbs, at one time
secretary of the society for a number of years, is at Melbourne Beach,
on the east coast of Florida, where he has been now for some ten
winters--and some summers also. His health makes it necessary for him to
live in so mild a climate. We have the pleasure of meeting him here
often during the summer. Now in his eighties he is nearly blind but
otherwise in good health and always in cheerful spirits.
NEW LIFE MEMBERS.--Since the report of 1915 was printed, in
which there will be found on page 520 a list of life members of the
society, there have been added to the life membership roll fifteen
names; five of these were made honorary members by the unanimous vote of
the association for valuable service rendered to the society, and were
well deserving of this honor, as follows: Chas. Haralson, Excelsior;
S. H. Drum, Owatonna; F. W. Kimball, Waltham; J. R. Cummins, Minneapolis;
John Bisbee, Madelia.
To the paid life membership roll there have been added ten names as
follows: E. G. Zabel, LaMoure, N.D.; Roy E. McConnell, St. Cloud; O. F.
Krueger, Minneapolis; L.A. Gunderson, Duluth; Mr. and Mrs. F. H. Gibbs,
St. Anthony Park; Herman Goebel, Wildrose, N.D.; T. Torgerson, Estevan,
Sask.; Law Swanson, St. Paul; Rev. Saml. Johnson, Princeton.
Don't you want your name added to this life roll? If you have already
paid an annual membership fee for this year a further payment of $4.00
made any time during the year will be received as first payment for a
life membership fee. That is, the amount of the annual fee already paid
may be deducted from a life membership fee paid any time during the
current year.
SEND IN A NEW MEMBER.--Have you noticed the advertisement on
the inside of the back cover page of this and also the January issues of
our monthly? There never was such an opportunity to secure valuable new
fruits as this presents to you and to your neighbor, many of whom we
feel sure would gladly take advantage of the opportunity if it were
presented to them. Take an evening off and do yourself and your
neighbors this good service--and the society as well.
NUMBER THREE STRAWBERRY.--Very few of those who have so far
selected plant premiums for next spring's delivery have chosen Minnesota
No. 3 June-bearing strawberry. Our members will surely make a mistake if
they do not secure for next spring's planting a quantity of this
splendid new berry, which seems likely to supplant the Senator Dunlap as
the June-bearing variety in the near future. It is a very vigorous
grower, equally attractive, of good quality, holds up well and is a
healthy, hardy plant. Do not leave this out of your list of selection
for plant premiums.
APPLE SEED OF LARGE VALUE.--A considerable quantity of apple
seed has been secured of Mr. John Bisbee, of Madelia, Minn., from his
orchard, top-worked, as it is, with many varieties of long keeping
apples, so that this seed is almost certainly crossed with something
that will keep well as well as of high quality. It will be found
especially valuable to plant for growing seedlings. It would be well to
secure this seed soon, mix it with damp sand and leave out of doors
where it will freeze, keeping the package which holds it covered from
the air so that it may not dry out. Every member should have a little
corner in his garden for growing apple seedlings. It is an enticing
experiment, and such seed as this is likely to give good results. We are
still looking for the $1,000 apple. You may grow it from some of this
seed. Package of twenty-five seed at ten cents, to be secured of Secy.
Latham.
A FAVORABLE WINTER FOR FRUITS.--The ground was in good
condition last fall, with a reasonable amount of moisture, fruits, both
trees and plants, well ripened up, and now with a fairly good blanket of
snow and no long continued severe weather, we have to this point in the
winter a very certain assurance of a good yield of fruit the coming
spring. To be sure the thermometer was down in the neighborhood of
thirty degrees one night, but it was there so short a time that it
scarcely seems possible that any harm could have been done by it. The
horticulturist should be a natural optimist and always anticipate
something good ahead, which is one pretty sure way of getting it.
MINNESOTA NURSERYMEN GIVE MEMBERSHIPS.--A considerable number
of the nurserymen of Minnesota are again giving memberships this year as
premiums to purchasers of nursery stock in quantity of $20.00 or
upwards. This is a commendable enterprise, not only on account of its
material assistance in building up the membership roll of the society
but more especially because it brings in the kind of members who have,
or should have, a large practical interest in the workings of the
association, and we believe also that it is like "casting bread upon the
waters;" those receiving these memberships will have a warm feeling for
the nurserymen which present them. If you who read this are Minnesota
nurserymen and are not in the list of those who are doing this service
for the society, don't you want to take advantage of an immediate
opportunity to align yourself with those who are showing so large an
interest in the welfare of the association?
[Illustration: GATHERING THE APPLE CROP IN HAROLD SIMMONS'
ORCHARD--AT HOWARD LAKE.]
While it is not the intention to publish anything in this
magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be
remembered that the articles published herein recite the
experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must
always be noted in estimating their practical value.
THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST
Vol. 44 MARCH, 1916 No. 3
My Orchard Crop of 1915 from Start to Finish.
HAROLD SIMMONS, ORCHARDIST, HOWARD LAKE.
In anticipation of a crop of apples for 1915 we commenced the season
with the regular annual pruning in March. We begin pruning as soon after
the 25th day of February as the weather is mild enough for us to work
comfortably, as the pruning of fifteen hundred trees requires
considerable time when one is obsessed with the idea that nothing short
of a first class job will do, and that to be accomplished mainly by the
efforts of one individual.
We have endeavored to grow our trees so that they should all have from
three to five or six main limbs, and any tendency of a limb to assume
the leadership is suppressed. A tree grown upon this principle has the
faculty of growing a great many laterals, necessitating an annual
pruning. As far as possible we prune to prevent laterals from becoming
too numerous, from growing so as to overtop or shade lower limbs, to let
in light and sunshine, so as to get the maximum amount of color on the
fruit and in a measure to help in thinning the fruit. Having in view the
idea of an annual crop instead of a biennial one, one essential point
always in mind is that we want an open headed tree, and we also wish to
insure our trees against blight, and so we eliminate all water sprouts.
Apparently, no Minnesota orchard is immune against blight.
Some objections are raised to this type of tree, one criticism being
that the tree is structurally weak from the fact that if one limb breaks
off at the trunk the tree is about ruined. We offset the possibility of
such a break by careful training and by wiring the trees, a plan I
gathered some years ago from a Mr. Mason, at that time president of the
Flood River Apple Growers Association.
[Illustration: Young trees in full bloom in Mr. Simmons' orchard.]
We use No. 14 galvanized wire, a half inch galvanized harness ring, and
screw-eyes with stout shanks and small eyes. Locating up the main limbs
what might be called the center of effort, or where the main pull would
be when loaded with fruit, put in a good stout screw-eye in every main
limb, eyes all pointing to the center of the tree, and then wire them
all to the harness ring in the middle of the tree. When finished the
ring and the wires are like the hub in a wheel with the spokes all
around. We tried this first on our N.W. Greening trees, and results were
so satisfactory that we have applied it to a great number of other
varieties with equal satisfaction. Once put in a tree, it is good for
the life of the tree.
Our objection to a tree with a central leader is that it is very
difficult to create an open head, and if the blight strikes the leader
it generally means the loss of the tree. Low headed trees we have found
by experience, are easiest cared for; they are the most economical for
thinning, harvesting, spraying and pruning; they also shade the trunk
and main limbs.
After pruning all brush is removed from the orchard and burned.
The next operation is spraying, and our first spraying was done when
most of the petals were down, using a Cushman power sprayer, running at
two hundred pounds pressure, with two leads of hose and extension rods
with two nozzles on each. Spraying solution, six gallons of lime and
sulphur, twelve pounds of arsenate of lead paste to each tank of water
containing two hundred gallons. We aim to cover the tree thoroughly from
top to bottom and spray twice each season. However, the past season half
the orchard only was sprayed twice, the other half only once, the second
spraying being applied about two weeks after the first, when we use lime
and sulphur only, and then five gallons instead of six, in each tank of
water. We use angle nozzles, the better to direct the spray into the
calyxes.
The orchard was mowed twice during the summer, early in June and the
middle of July. A heavy growth of clover covers most of the orchard, and
none is ever removed, all is left to decay just as it is left by the
mowers.
The next thing in line to take our attention is thinning the fruit. The
past season we thinned the Wealthy and top-worked varieties only;
another season, we expect to carry this work to every tree in the
orchard. The trees were gone over twice in the season, although the bulk
of the work is done at the first operation. We use thinning shears made
expressly for the purpose.
By the end of July the trees in many instances were carrying maximum
loads, and unless rendered assistance by propping in some way, the
limbs, great numbers of them, must soon break. To get props to prop
hundreds of trees, needing from five to six up to a dozen per tree, and
apply them, looked like a big job. To purchase lumber for props the
price was prohibitive; to get them from the woods was impossible. We
finally solved the problem by purchasing bamboo fish poles, sixteen and
twenty feet long, and by using No. 12 wire, making one turn around the
pole at the required height, turning up the end of the wire to hold it
and making a hook out of the other end of the wire, using about seven or
eight inches of wire for each. These made excellent props at small
expense, the ringlike excresences on the pole preventing the wire from
slipping. We propped as many as four and five limbs at different heights
on one pole. This method carried the heavily loaded trees through the
season in good shape. Anyone afflicted with too many apples on their
trees should try it.
Next in line came the harvesting of the crop. We use the "Ideal
Bottomless Bag" for a picking utensil, and almost all the fruit is
picked from six foot step-ladders. We pack the apples in the orchard.
Fortunately we have had the same people pick our apples year after year,
from the first crop until the last one of the past season.
[Illustration: Apples by the carload at Howard Lake.]
In packing we aim to use the kind of package the market demands. The
crop this season was all barreled. The pickers have been on the job long
enough so that they are as able to discriminate as to what should go
into a barrel and what should not as I am myself. However, our system is
to always have about twice as many barrels open ready for the apples as
there are pickers. The barrels are all faced one layer at least, and two
layers if we have the time, and as the pickers come in with
approximately half a bushel of apples in the picking sack, they swing
the sack over the barrel, lower it, release the catch and the apples are
deposited without bruising in any way.
The next picker puts his in the next barrel, and so on, so that each
succeeding picker deposits his apples in the next succeeding barrel. In
that way I personally have the opportunity to inspect every half bushel
of apples, or, I might say, every apple, as a half bushel of apples in a
barrel is shallow, making inspection a very simple matter. When the
barrels are filled they are headed up, put in the packing shed until
sufficient have accumulated, and when that point is reached they are
loaded out, billed to Minneapolis, where practically all our apples have
been sold for years. All fruit up to date has been sold on a commission
basis, the crop for the past season aggregating five carloads, or
approximately 800 barrels.
We feel that we have worked out a fairly good method to handle both our
trees and our apples, but we have not reached the conclusion that our
methods in any way guarantee us a crop of apples, although in ten years,
or since the orchard came into bearing, we have never had a season that
we did not have a fair crop of apples. In 1913 we sold seven carloads,
in 1914 four carloads, in 1915 five carloads, and the trees as far as
they are concerned promise us a fair crop for 1916. We are working as
though this is assured, but in the final analysis it is up to the
weather man.
A Member: I would like to ask Mr. Simmons in regard to his wiring. We
are raising our trees in the same manner, the open-headed trees, and I
wanted to ask him where the central ring is placed, in the crotch of the
tree or where?
Mr. Simmons: The ring is suspended by the wires in the center of the
tree. It makes an excellent arrangement. You can stand on that wire and
gather the apples from the topmost limbs of the trees. The screw-eyes
should be put in at what might be termed the center of effort or pull,
when the limb is heavily loaded. If not put in high enough, it causes a
rather too acute angle where the screw-eye is inserted and the limb is
likely to break.
A Member: We had considerable difficulty with broken branches.
Mr. Ludlow: Are the rings put on the outside or the inside of the trees?
Mr. Simmons: On the inside, so that the screw eyes all point towards the
center of the tree. After three or four years you can't see the screw
eye, it grows right into the tree.
Mr. Ludlow: I want to ask if you recommend the bamboo poles for general
propping of trees?
Mr. Simmons: Yes, sir; most emphatically I would. It is the best and
most economical prop you can use. Of course, it is the general opinion
among expert fruit growers that the crop should never be too heavy for
the tree. The bamboo prop is the best we found. With reasonable care,
bamboo poles will outlast common lumber.
It is the general opinion among expert fruit growers that the tree
should carry all fruit possible, but should not be permitted to be
loaded so heavy as to need propping.
Mr. Dyer: I have an orchard of 70 acres and it would take a great many
bamboo poles to prop that orchard. I use pieces of board, various
lengths, 4 inches wide and 1 inch thick, of various lengths. I get them
14 to 16 feet long and sometimes I cut them in two. My trees are large,
twenty-five and thirty and thirty-five years old, and that has been my
most successful material to prop with.
Mr. Simmons: What is the cost?
Mr. Dyer: Well, you know what the lumber is, I paid about $24.00 a
thousand.
Mr. Simmons: When I tried to buy the props from the lumber yard they
would have cost me twenty cents each. I bought the twenty foot bamboo
poles for $7.00 a hundred and the sixteen foot poles for $4.50 a
hundred.
A Member: I didn't get where his orchard is located, and I would like to
ask about the variety of apples he had the best success with.
Mr. Simmons: The orchard is located at Howard Lake, forty-three miles
west of Minneapolis. We grow Duchess, Patten's Greenings, Hibernals and
Wealthys.
Mr. Ludlow: What is your average cost per tree for thinning?
Mr. Simmons: We have for years thinned the Wealthy trees and our
top-worked varieties, but I never kept any accurate account of the cost
of thinning.
Mr. Ludlow: How old are your Wealthys?
Mr. Simmons: Fourteen years old.
Mr. Huestis: Mr. Simmons stated that he used the wire and the ring and
the screw-eyes. If he used that, why does he need props? I used the same
thing this summer on some Wealthys and thinned them besides, and I
didn't need any props because I used the wire from the center ring to
the branches.
Mr. Simmons: Well, the wire supports support the main limbs but there
are a great many laterals. For instance, you have the main limb going up
here at an angle of 90 degrees and the limbs that come out of that are
not supported. The props I use are supporting the laterals.
Mr. Anderson: Are your returns satisfactory shipping to the Minneapolis
market?
Mr. Simmons: Always have been very satisfactory; that has been my only
market.
* * * * *
FIGHTING MOTHS WITH PARASITES.--Over 12,000,000 specimens of
two parasites which prey on the gipsy moth and brown-tail moth were
released in 201 towns in Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts and Rhode
Island during the fall of 1914 and spring of 1915, according to the
annual report of the Bureau of Entomology, United States Department of
Agriculture.
As a result of the successful establishment of colonies of these and
other parasites which feed on the gipsy and brown-tail moths, marked
progress is being made in reducing these pests. Effective co-operation
is being afforded by the States, which carry on as much work as possible
within the infested areas, thus allowing the Federal authorities to
carry on field work along the outer border of infestation, so as to
retard the gipsy moth's spread.--U.S. Dept. of Agri.
Annual Meeting. 1915, S.D. State Horticultural Society.
WM. PFAENDER, JR., NEW ULM, MINN., DELEGATE.
Arrived at Huron, S.D., Monday night, January 17, 1916. The officers as
well as the members gave me a very fine reception and, although I am a
life member, I was made an honorary member of the society, and during my
stay was entertained very agreeably.
I attended all meetings. The society had three meetings each day, except
Thursday, the 20th, when there was no meeting held in the evening. On
account of the very cold weather the attendance from outside was not as
large as it should have been.
Some very interesting papers were read. Mr. E. D. Cowles, of Vermillion,
in his paper on "What to do when your grape vines freeze back,"
advocated to break off the shoots (do not cut them off) near the old
wood, so that new shoots would start from the same bud or eye and would
produce a crop.
The papers by the president, Rev. F. A. Hassold, "Relation of
Horticulture to Home-Making" at the meeting, and "Community Effort in
Rural Life" at the banquet, were very fine and much appreciated by the
audience.
Professor N. E. Hansen in his paper, "New Fruits," stated, among other
things, that he had made a large number of crosses with Chinese sand
pears and other pears, and that he expects to get from the crosses
varieties that will be blight proof, and that he intends to continue
experiments along this line.
Two very able and much appreciated papers at the banquet were:
"Landscape Gardening," by Miss Hazel J. Kent, and "Transforming a Place
Into a Home," by Mrs. Geo. H. Whiting, both of Yankton, S.D.
Governor Byrney was present at the banquet and in his address
congratulated the horticulturists of South Dakota on what they have
attained and encouraged them in their difficult undertakings.
Your delegate was asked to give notes on "Minnesota Fruit Culture,"
which he did to the best of his ability. The discussions after each
paper were interesting and instructive.
The meeting was a very successful one and all present appreciated the
fact that these gatherings assist in developing this great Northwest in
horticulture, forestry and many other ways.
Annual Report, 1915, Sauk Rapids Trial Station.
MRS. JENNIE STAGER, SUPT.
Warm weather this last spring came quite early, and with bated breath we
waited for the usual frost, but still it came not. The plum orchard
became a wilderness of bloom; the buds of the apple trees began coyly to
unfold their dainty loveliness; pussy willows flaunted their sweetness
on the air--while the birds sang their love notes from trees and bushes.
Then frost came--not once, but night after night. Thus our hopes, which
had risen with every promise of a bountiful harvest, fell with the
thermometer far below zero. When fall came both plum and apple orchards
made so poor a showing, not only here but all around this part of the
country, that we had hardly enough fruit for our own uses.
[Illustration: Mrs. Stager's grandchildren among the roses of one year's
growth.]
We had a great deal of rain, all through the spring and into the summer.
Strawberries, that generally do well in wet weather, did not bless us
with their usual abundance. Currants and gooseberries also left us in
the lurch--but the Snyder blackberries were loaded with luscious fruit,
while raspberries--why the berries of the Golden Queen bent the stalks
down with their weight. Prof. Hansen's Sunbeams were covered with
berries, as were all of the seedling raspberries sent from the Breeding
Farm three years ago, Nos. six and seven, of the red ones, bore the
largest and firmest berries. I had quite a time keeping the blossoms off
the everbearing strawberries sent here in the spring from the State
Breeding Farm. Although I had bought and planted three named--and very
much extolled--other kinds of everbearers, none of them were as prolific
in plants, and extra large berries, as those unnamed ones from the State
Breeding Farm. We had our first berries from them in August.
When we had our fair here, the last of September, I made quite a showing
of them, from the size of a bean (green) to a crab apple (ripe),
surrounded by leaves and blossoms. They were still covered with bloom
when the hard frosts came.
The two small hybrid plums sent did not make much growth. Most
vegetables that have always grown so well in other summers did very
poorly this year. Out of four hundred and seventy-five tomato plants,
taken the best of care of by Inez, my granddaughter, for the state
tomato contest, we did not get one bushel of good ripe ones. Lima and
other table beans were planted three times (on account of rotting in the
ground) and then did not ripen. No ripe corn. In fact, about all the
vegetables that came to fruition were peas, cauliflower and cabbage.
Of flowers, sweet peas, pansies and early lilies were fine, although
growing things were late. Paeonies had very few flowers. However, roses
were masses of bloom. Moss roses did the best ever, also large bushes of
Rosa Rugosa (you see this year, we had neither the ubiquitous potato
bug, rose bug, caterpillar or any other varmint to war against); quite a
number gave us blooms all summer. Then most of them threw out strong new
plants, as do the raspberries, from the roots. On the whole, with our
bounteous harvest of grain and so forth in this blessed country, we can
be thankful we are alive.
* * * * *
KEEP YOUTH ON THE FARM.--"What can we do to keep our young
people free from the deceiving lure of the city and contented to remain
on the farm?".
The following was prepared by C. W. Kneale, of Niwot, Colo., a student in
civics in the Colorado School of Agriculture, as a part of his regular
class work. Young Kneale, although a student, has some excellent ideas
which "Father" and "Mother" might do well to ponder carefully:
"Get good books, magazines and farm papers for them to read.
"Have some kind of lodges for them to go to, such as the Grange.
"Arrange it so they can have a party or entertainment once in a while.
"Go with them to church every Sunday.
"Arrange it so they can have one or more picnics every year.
"Teach them how to do all kinds of farm work, by giving them a small
tract of land to farm for themselves and showing them how to raise their
crops, and have them help you with your work.
"Give them a horse which they can ride or drive when they haven't
anything to do, or when they want to go anywhere.
"Teach them to love and be kind to animals."
Ravages of the Buffalo Tree Hopper.
"Mr. Latham recently sent me some twigs of apple tree very badly injured
with what we call the buffalo tree hopper. These scars are made entirely
by the female in the act of egg-laying. This process of egg-laying takes
place from the last part of July until the leaves drop in the fall. The
eggs hatch the following spring. The young forms do not feed at all upon
the apple but get their nourishment by sucking the juices from the weeds
and grasses in the immediate neighborhood of the orchard.
[Illustration: The Buffalo Tree Hopper and its work]
"The injury of this particular tree hopper is bad because the insect in
egg-laying makes two slits, side by side, afterwards poking the eggs
beneath the bark. As the tree continues to grow, the area between the
slits dies, making a very rough appearance of the bark and an area into
which spores of disease and bacteria may enter. The twig that is badly
scarred very often dies, and sometimes young trees just set out are
marked so badly that they succumb.
"The only practical remedy against such a pest is clean cultivation of
the orchard, as one can readily work out from knowing the life history.
It is possible that some of the sprays like Bordeaux mixture, or
self-boiled lime-sulphur, sprayed and kept active on the trees during
the month of August would deter these hoppers from laying eggs. However,
we have had no practical experience along this line, although we do know
that trees under clean cultivation are not affected."--A. G. Ruggles,
Head of Section of Spraying and Tree Insects, University Farm, St. Paul.
* * * * *
MINNESOTA NO. 3 STRAWBERRY.--A communication from Peter
Jackson, Cloquet, says: "I had my first trial of the Minnesota No. 3
strawberry last year and they did finely. I had one hundred twenty-five
quarts from sixty plants." Who can do better than that?
Growing Tomatoes in Northern Minnesota.
REV. GEO. MICHAEL, WALKER, MINN.
Sow seed in hotbed about April first, in rows five inches apart and five
inches apart in each row. Transplant in garden one week after danger of
frost is past. The day before transplanting soak the hotbed thoroughly
with warm water. In taking them up to transplant use a sharp butcher
knife; the ground thus cut out will form a cube five inches in diameter.
This block, should be set in a hole ten to twelve inches deep. The
ground around the block must be made very firm. This block will be four
to six inches below the surface. _Fill the hole with warm rainwater_ and
three or four hours later rake in loose dirt to fill the hole, being
careful not to pack it in the least.
_How to prepare the ground._ Manure heavily; plow very deep; harrow
thoroughly. Then in forming the hills place two shovelfuls of fine
manure and one-half shovelful of hen manure for each hill. Spade this in
from twelve to eighteen inches deep and eighteen to twenty inches wide.
Cultivate often.
The plants should be staked at first to keep the wind storms from
injuring them. When one and one-half feet high they should be trained
over poles placed on each side of the row one and one-half feet from the
ground. Plant hills four feet apart, and _train each plant to four or
five vines_, cutting off all side shoots and a few of the leaves. _Never
cut off_ the top of a vine to hasten the ripening.
Make the ground _as rich as possible, plough deep, plant deep, set deep
and prune carefully_. If you do not use poles or a trellis the vines
thus managed should spread over the ground as pumpkin vines grow, and
instead of "going all to vines" the tendency will be to go all to
tomatoes.
_A big story._ Over $3,000 per acre. In 1910 I had three rows each forty
feet long and four feet apart, i.e., a row 120 feet long, or 480 square
feet. More than $35.00 worth of ripe tomatoes were taken from these
vines, the price never more nor less than five cents per pound. If 480
square feet will produce $35.00, 43,560 square feet would produce
$3,175.
During the tomato season I was away from home when a neighbor gathered
bushels which are not counted in the above figures, and our family used
and gave away several bushels more.
Annual Report, 1915, Vice-President, Fourth Congressional District.
J. K. DIXON, NORTH ST. PAUL, MINN.
The fourth district fruit crops--with the exception of strawberries and
raspberries--were conspicuous by their absence this season of 1915.
A festive blizzard that came prancing our way the 17th of May
effectually destroyed what promised to be a bumper crop of apples and
plums. The trees were for the most part past the blossoming stage, and
the fruit had started to develop. Currants and grapes met the same
disastrous fate. Only in favored situations, adjacent to large bodies of
water, were there any apples, plums, grapes or currants to speak of.
[Illustration: Mr. J. K. Dixon, North St. Paul.]
In my orchard, at North St. Paul, we burned wet straw smudges every
second row on the outside of the orchard, allowing the wind to drift the
smoke through trees. This was done by adding the wet straw at intervals
to the burning piles in order to create a continuous dense smoke. When
daylight appeared we noticed the ground covered with a beautiful blanket
of frost, and decided two men smoking pipes would have been as effective
treatment as the smudge.
In this, however, I have since concluded we were mistaken. As the season
advanced we noticed the first three or four rows in from the smudges
gave us our only apples, whereas the further one went in the fewer were
found, until they finally disappeared entirely.
Question: If the above treatment had been given every second or third
row throughout orchard, what would the results have been?
Strawberries and raspberries proved their superior ability to withstand
the assaults of King Boreas and Jack Frost. Strawberries were in blossom
and were saved from total loss by a two or three inch blanket of wet
snow that fortunately preceded the frost. Consequently they are reported
as fair to good crop. Raspberries, owing to the abundant and regular
rainfall, are reported from all over the district as a fair crop. One
grower having one-half acre of the St. Regis everbearing red raspberry
reports having ripe berries from the last week in June to the 8th day of
October, when a big freeze-up put them out of commission. This one-half
acre produced 2,000 pints, that sold for fancy prices. Also the
everbearing strawberries are reported as making good and proving their
claim to recognition as an established institution in the fruit world.
A few of the largest growers report spraying with lime-sulphur and
arsenate of lead. However, the rainfall was too abundant at the right
time (or wrong time) to get best results.
Very little blight is reported as present the past summer, and what
little there was yielded readily to the pruning knife applied five or
six inches below infected wood, being careful to sterilize tool in
solution of corrosive sublimate. The most serious injury from blight is
caused by its attacking tender sprout growths on trunks or large
branches. The blight runs very rapidly down the tender wood, penetrating
to the cambium layer, where it causes cankers, often girdling entire
trunk and killing tree outright. This is especially true of the Virginia
crab and Wealthy apple.
Trees and plants came through last winter in A1 condition as a
consequence of a mild winter, and this fall they go into winter quarters
with abundance of moisture and well ripened wood.
Considerable nursery stock was planted last spring with excellent
results, due to plentiful supply of moisture from spring to fall.
While fruit growing in Minnesota is not so extensively engaged in as in
some reputed fruit growers' paradises we read about, I wish to state
that the South and East (to speak in the vernacular) "has nothing on
us." I have reliable information that the same freeze that cleaned us
out up here in the North did the same trick for growers at Mobile,
Alabama. Therefore, I advise members not to yield to discouragement.
Plant and care for varieties recommended in the society planting list
and emulate the society motto, "Perseverantia Vincimus."
From replies to letters sent out the following list of varieties
appears to be in favor as the most desirable to plant in this district:
Apples: Wealthy, Okabena, Duchess, Patten's Greening.
Crabs: Florence, Whitney, Lyman's Prolific.
Plums: DeSoto, Hawkeye, Wyant, Wolf.
Raspberries: King, Sunbeam, Minnetonka Ironclad.
Currants: Perfection, Prince Albert, Long Bunch Holland,
Wilder.
Gooseberries: Carrie, Houghton, Downing.
Grapes: Beta, Concord, Delaware.
Hardy Shrubs: Spirea Van Houtii, Hydrangea P.G., Snowball,
Syringa, Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lilac, High-bush Cranberry,
Barberry, Sumac, Elderberry, Golden Leaf Elder, Buckthorn for
hedges.
Hardy Perennials--Flowers: Delphinium, Campanula, Phlox,
Paeonies, Iris, Hermerocallis, Tiger Lilies.
Tender Plants: Dahlias, Gladiolus.
Annual Report, 1915, Mandan, N.D., Trial Station.
W. A. PETERSON, SUPT., MANDAN, N.D.
In the spring of 1914 a number of plums, grapes and raspberries were
received from the Minnesota Fruit-Breeding Farm. The larger part of the
plums were winter killed in 1914-15. Those that survive after a few more
winters may be considered as practically hardy. Those remaining made a
good growth in 1915, but did not bear.
The grapes lived through the winter in good shape, although they had
been covered. These are all Beta seedlings.
The raspberries Nos. 3, 7, and 8, were partly covered and partly left
exposed--all three numbers died to the ground when not protected. No. 4
was received in the spring of 1915 and made a good growth.
Strawberry No. 1017 was received in spring 1915 and bore heavily this
fall but made only a very few runners.
Extensive experiments are being carried on in plant-breeding, pomology,
vegetable gardening, arboriculture and ornamental horticulture, and in
the course of time a lot of valuable information will be gathered.
On the whole the season was backward in spring and the summer was
abnormally cool. There was sufficient rainfall for all crops.
Fruit Growing a Successful Industry in Minnesota.
A. W. RICHARDSON, FRUIT GROWER, HOWARD LAKE, MINN.
It is now about eighteen years since I conceived the idea of fruit
culture as a competency for old age, being then, as now, employed as
representative for some concern and required to travel over this state,
earning a livelihood for myself and family. The nature of my first work
on the road necessitated my attendance (a large portion of the time) at
Minnesota farmers' institute meetings, where I came in contact with
those gentlemen employed in that work, and among the number our friend
Clarence Wedge, of Albert Lea, and other personal friends, such as O. C.
Gregg, the founder of the institute work, Mr. Greely, Mr. Trow and
others. It was among these gentlemen I got my first desire for a piece
of land, and was advised by them several times to get a piece of land,
and if I could not afford to buy a large piece, to buy a small piece,
which latter course I was compelled to adopt. I became imbued with a
desire to grow fruit and was particularly interested in the subject of
horticulture, and eagerly devoured all the literature obtainable on the
subject, and listened very attentively to all discussions on the subject
at these meetings.
In 1897 I moved to Howard Lake and succeeded Mr. E. J. Cutts in the
nursery and fruit growing business. Mr. Cutts was well known to a great
many. He died just prior to my residence in Howard Lake, where I got in
my first practical experience in the fruit-growing business. After
conducting this business for about twelve months, I disposed of it and
bought a home in another part of town and at once set out about 200
apple trees and other small fruit. Gradually I acquired more land and
set out more trees, until today I have about 1,600 apple trees, about
1,000 of which are at bearing age. I made one grand mistake however, as
a great many other growers have done and are still doing, I planted too
many varieties. I used the list of tried and recommended sorts issued by
the State Horticultural Society (long before I became a member) and
planted accordingly and, like many other growers, have my quota of
Hibernals, Minnesotas, Marthas and other sorts which experience has
demonstrated are not nearly as desirable as other varieties.
I have demonstrated to my entire satisfaction that it is profitable and
perfectly proper to grow also small fruits in a young orchard. In my
second orchard, containing about 600 trees, I planted the trees 15x30
feet and later the same season set out raspberries 3x6 feet, occupying
all the space in the rows and between the rows, and for two successive
seasons I grew a third crop between the raspberries, which plan works
admirably. One mistake I made, however, was in planting a little too
close to the apple trees, requiring more hoeing around the apple trees
to keep the raspberries in subjection, which could have been obviated to
a large extent by not planting so closely. I grew raspberries about
seven years in this orchard. My returns after the second year brought me
$500.00 to $700.00 annually, and I sold enough plants to more than pay
me for all the labor expended on the orchard, to say nothing of corn,
beans, cabbage, etc., raised the first two years between the
raspberries. Now the trees are about ten years old and all bearing. I
have discontinued the cultivation and have seeded to clover, which we
usually mow and allow to lie and rot.
[Illustration: Residence of A. W. Richardson, at Howard Lake.]
I figure that outside the investment I have brought my orchard into
bearing with practically no expense, having had a revenue every year
since planting the trees, which are composed of Patten Greening,
Hibernal, Duchess, Wealthy, Peerless, Minnesota, Virginia, Okabena and
Whitney. My last orchard of 625 trees consists principally of Wealthy,
and trees are set 20x20, and I am following the same plan of growing a
crop between. The year 1915 makes four crops taken from this young
orchard, now four years old. About two more seasons will follow this
year, and then about the time for bearing I will discontinue the
planting of any crop and sow it to clover.
I plant one or two year old trees trimmed to a whip, digging a much
larger and deeper hole than is really necessary to accommodate the
roots, but I am sure this plan gives the roots a much better start than
if they are crowded into a small hole, and particularly if the ground is
hardpan or similar soil. Pinching off the buds the following year or
two, when you commence shaping your trees to your liking, is good, thus
eliminating severe pruning. I have endeavored to follow up this annual
pruning when possible, often being compelled to hire additional help for
this purpose, as the nature of my regular business keeps me from home
when I should be pruning. I am sure you will agree with me so far that
"fruit growing in Minnesota is successful."
Four years ago or more I decided that in order to receive the top price
for the products off my place I must produce a first class article, and
so to that end I have worked. I bought a gasoline power sprayer, costing
me about $300--by the way, the first one in Howard Lake, although two of
us there each bought one the same spring, and now there are three power
sprayers in our village. I have demonstrated that it is possible to get
the top price of the market in more ways than one by furnishing a first
class article. You will ask me how it is possible for me to do this and
be away from home so much. I have been ably assisted by my wife, who
sees that my general directions are carried out as I have outlined.
This year we have marketed something over 300 barrels and have received
the top market price, netting me about $500.00. I tried out a new plan
this year, selling through a reliable commission firm. I have heretofore
sold direct to the retailer with splendid results. 1913 was a bumper
year and the market flooded everywhere with poor unsprayed stuff. I sold
about 250 barrels and received an average of $3.25 per barrel, F.O.B.
Howard Lake, and in 1914 about the same amount was realized. There is
always a good demand for a good article, carefully picked and honestly
packed, discarding all bruised and scabby or wormy apples, or those
undersized or less than 2-1/2 inches in diameter.
This season I sprayed my trees three times, the first time early in
April, using what is known as a dormant spray, using commercial
lime-sulphur solution 32 degrees Baume, 20 gallons to a tank of 200
gallons of water, or four times as strong as the two subsequent
sprayings, after the blossoms fall, at which later time I use in
addition arsenate of lead, 10 pounds to a 200 gallon tank of water, and
work under 200 pound pressure--and by doing thorough work can produce
apples almost entirely free from any disease or worms. My last shipment
of apples this year was October 2nd and consisted of 196 barrels,
one-third each of Hibernals, Patten Greenings and Wealthys, which
brought top prices.
[Illustration: Mr. A. W. Richardson, Howard Lake.]
I am a firm believer in co-operative marketing and think it is the only
logical way to market any crop, but to conduct a successful marketing
organization there should be stringent rules compelling all who join an
association for marketing to spray thoroughly if nothing else, as I am
firmly convinced that you cannot grow apples and compete with other
localities without doing so, and doing so every year, whether a prospect
for a good crop exists or not. I can prove this, as I only partly
covered my entire orchard in 1913 with spraying. You could easily see
which had been sprayed and which not. Excessive rain at the vital time
prevented my completion of the work. I am convinced by experience, too,
that the dormant spray, usually neglected by most growers, is very
necessary and am sure better and healthier foliage is obtained by this
practice, and by it the scale can be controlled in a large degree.
I had eight to ten Patten's Greening trees that had been attacked by a
disease called by some "oyster scale." The trees abnormally lost their
foliage early in the season, and I had about decided they were dead
when, after a dormant spray the following spring, they entirely revived
and are now as healthy as any trees on my place.
I have practiced top-working to some extent and for the past three or
four years have been able to put down in my cellar, several bushels of
Jonathan, Grimes Golden, Delicious and other varieties. Have now about
125 Jonathan trees top-worked on Hibernals, and except for some blight
they have done splendidly.
There is no room for discussion, no room for argument in any way, why
fruit-growing in Minnesota is not a very successful business to be
engaged in. I have demonstrated, I am sure, that if I can bring an
orchard into bearing and hold down a good, fairly lucrative position at
the same time and do so with very little expense, and others can do the
some thing.
Now I am going to criticise some one and let the criticism fall where it
belongs. There has been a great injustice done the commercial fruit
grower, or those trying to grow fruit commercially, by advising, urging,
or anything else you choose to call it, the farmer or small homekeeper
to buy more fruit trees and plants than this class of individual needs
for his own use. In order to receive some returns for this surplus, he
rushes it into town and sells it to the best advantage, delivered in
sacks, soap boxes, etc., carelessly handled and bumped into town in a
lumber wagon. The merchant is loaded up with a lot of unsalable stuff
and often finds himself overloaded and barrels up some and sends it to
the commission row and expects some returns, which vary from nothing to
a very small amount. Why, last season I knew a large general merchandise
concern in a town a little west of Howard Lake that thought they had
struck a gold mine. They employed a packer or two, bought barrels,
rented a building and bought this class of stuff right and left, offered
at any old price, $1.50 per barrel to anything they could get, and sold
clear up to the Canadian line. I saw the stuff a great many times after
it reached its destination, and it was hardly fit for sale at any price.
This indiscriminate selling of nursery stock by eager salesmen and
nurserymen is doing more to hurt the commercial fruit growing industry
than any one thing. The only salvation for the grower making his living
out of the business is to produce a better article, better picked,
better packed and marketed through the proper channels. This matter just
referred to I have often discussed by the hour, and during the past
winter my views were thoroughly endorsed by prominent men in the
extension work of our state.
In conclusion will say, comparing the fruit industry in Minnesota with
that greatest of all industry, raising grain, it is so much easier (if
ordinary care be exercised) to produce a finer article, more attractive
in appearance, better packed and marketed properly, than the other
fellow does, while in growing grain this is not the case, as all the
grain is dumped into the hopper and bin, and the individuality of the
grower is forever lost. The demand for the apple has increased
wonderfully the last few years, and it is quite likely to be further
increased owing to the European demand for American apples, which for
the next fifteen or twenty years will increase by leaps and bounds,
owing to the devastating of so many of the great orchard sections in
parts of Austria and northern France. This authentic information came
through Mr. H. W. Collingwood, many years editor of the Rural New Yorker,
and according to Mr. Collingwood's idea there has been no time in the
history of the United States when the outlook for commercial orchards
was so bright. He advises the widespread planting of commercial orchards
to meet this new demand which has shown itself already in Europe and
will greatly increase after the war is over.
[Illustration: A two-acre field of Dunlap strawberries on place of A. W.
Richardson, at Howard Lake.]
Mr. Ludlow: I would like to know what you advise for that commercial
orchard, what varieties?
Mr. Richardson: Wealthys, all the time. (Applause.)
Mr. Ludlow: I would like to ask for the comparative prices you received
for the three apples you mentioned, Wealthy, Greening and Hibernal.
Mr. Richardson: The Hibernal sold for around $3.00 a barrel and the
Wealthy sold for three something. Mind you, I never sold apples at all
until this year to Minneapolis markets. I can sell all the apples I can
grow myself without any trouble if I have the proper men to pick them
and pack them at home. I had a son that was doing that until a few years
ago, and he followed my instructions and would place nothing but first
class stuff in the barrels and would sell my samples without any trouble
and get the top market price. I run across down in my cellar some of
last year's crop of Northwest Greenings, just two of them left, one of
them partially decayed. Something I never had known to happen before.
They lay in the cellar just wrapped up.
Mr. Ludlow: It wasn't embalmed?
Mr. Richardson: No, sir. Gentlemen, you need not be afraid of growing
fruit in Minnesota.
Mr. Ludlow: What peculiar method have you for keeping those apples?
Mr. Richardson: Just wrapped in paper only.
The President: What temperature do you keep in your cellar?
Mr. Richardson: 40 degrees about this time.
The President: You have a heater in your cellar?
Mr. Richardson: Yes, sir, but this is shut off from that, though the
pipes run through.
A Member: Are your trees still as far apart as they were at first?
Mr. Richardson: No, sir. I neglected to say that I sent East and got
some roots, and I was advised to set them out between. I have part of my
orchard set 15x16, but that is too close together.
A Member: If you were going to do it again would you put them 30x30?
Mr. Richardson: 20x20, that is, Wealthys, particularly. Of course, for
the Hibernals, you got to put them farther apart.
A Member: You mentioned the Delicious. What is your opinion of the
Delicious?
Mr. Richardson: My experience has been so little with them. I have about
150 Jonathan trees coming on that will be all right.
* * * * *
MARBLE PILLAR TO FAMOUS MCINTOSH TREE.--Perhaps one of the most
curious monuments in existence has recently been built in Ontario by
Canadians. The farmers have just erected a marble pillar to mark the
site on which grew a famous apple tree.
More than a century ago a settler in Canada named McIntosh, when
clearing a space in which to make a home in the wilderness, discovered
among a number of wild apple trees one which bore fruit so well that he
cultivated it and named it McIntosh Red.
The apple became famous, and seeds and cuttings were distributed to all
parts of Canada, so that now the McIntosh Red flourishes wherever apples
grow in the great dominion. In 1896 the original tree from which this
enormous family sprang was injured by fire, but it continued to bear
fruit until five years ago. Then, after 15 years, it died, and the
grateful farmers have raised a marble pillar in honor of the tree which
has done so much for the fruit growing industry of their land.
The story of this apple tree illustrates the African proverb that though
you can count the apples on one tree, you can never count the trees in
one apple.--January Popular Science Monthly.
Report of Committee on Horticultural Building.
S. P. CROSBY, CHAIRMAN, ST. PAUL.
As you know, at the last legislature there was a bill prepared and
introduced asking for an appropriation of $40,000 to build a new home
for this society. It was provided, that that home should be located on
the grounds of University Farm or upon the grounds of the State
Agricultural Society, and that was to be left to the discretion of the
executive board of this society. The bill is a very well drawn bill, and
the committee appeared before the legislature some four or five times.
We went before the committee of the senate and before the committee of
the house and senate, and as a matter of fact the result was that the
bill never came out of the committee.
The cry last year, as it is every year, was that of retrenchment and low
taxes. Now, that is all right as a general proposition, but Minnesota is
not a poor state. In the cities of course we think we have all the taxes
we ought to have, and we think they are pretty high; perhaps you
gentlemen living in the country think you have as high taxes as you
ought to have, but that the state, for instance, has over $30,000,000 in
the school fund, probably reaching up to fifty or sixty millions some
day, with other figures which can be given here, shows that Minnesota is
not a poor state. On the other hand, it shows that Minnesota is a rich
state. Certainly there is no good reason why it should not provide a
good home for this society, which has earned it and is nearly fifty
years old.
Now, ladies and gentlemen, I simply want to say one thing. Don't depend
upon the committee to do all this work. While we didn't get our bill
through last year we came away full of courage, and just as sure as
night follows the day we are going to have a new home for this society
one of these days. (Applause.) But I want it distinctly understood that
every member of this society, men and women--and I certainly include the
women because oftentimes they are the best politicians, and they know
how to talk to people and get things--when the next legislature is
elected must use his or her influence with the senators and
representatives of the various districts of the state and make an
impression upon them and get a promise out of them to vote for and
support the bill. A bill will be introduced into the next legislature,
and it will probably be this same bill, and if you don't forget this,
but simply do your duty in seeing these representatives and taking the
matter up, why there isn't very much doubt in my judgment but what we
will be successful and have our bill passed.
We have members, I think, in every county of the state, haven't we,
President Cashman?
The President: Yes.
[Illustration: Mr. S. P. Crosby, St. Paul.]
Mr. Crosby: If we only have two or three in some counties, if they would
make an effort to see every representative and senator and talk the
matter over, that is what is going to count. It is a year or something
like that before the legislature meets again, but it don't want to be
forgotten, and if every live member of this society will put his
shoulder to the wheel, I don't think there is any possible doubt but
what we will succeed and have the bill pass.
We broke the ice last winter and got acquainted with some of the people.
And another thing I want to say, and that is if that bill the next time
is not reported favorably out of the committee I would be in favor for
one of having it reported to the house or senate without any
recommendation of the committee. I talked with probably fifteen or
twenty, I should say, of the different members of the senate and house
about that bill, and it had a great many friends both in the house and
senate. Some of them came to me and said: "Crosby, why don't you put it
in the house, and we will show you how we will vote." There was a whole
lot of feeling that way, because if men investigate and find out what
the society is standing for and what it has done they will know it is a
perfectly meritorious bill. I think with a reasonable amount of work we
will accomplish a great deal, and we shall succeed eventually in having
the bill passed.
Another matter that is proper to speak of now is to see where the
members of this organization stand. I am going to tell you something. I
didn't hear it personally myself, but I did hear it from Mr. Yanish. He
is a man of veracity and he told me. He said in the last legislature the
Hennepin delegation used all the strength they could against this bill.
If it is a rivalry between the two cities, St. Paul and Minneapolis when
we propose to put the building in neither Minneapolis or St. Paul, but
practically midway between the two cities, if that rivalry can go to
that extent, it seems to me mighty small business.
We were very careful not to conflict in any way with the state
university in getting any of those appropriations they were asking for.
They wanted big sums of money. We didn't conflict with them, we didn't
do anything against them. We made a gentlemanly campaign and put our
case before the committee. There were a number of members who were
favorable, but of course there were thousands of bills in there, and it
didn't get out of the committees, as I said.
We see more and more every year what great necessities there are for a
home for this organization. We ought to have a building like as the
plans given in Mr. Latham's last report, a building that would have a
fine auditorium, a fine exhibit room, a place where we are at home
instead of going from place to place and meeting at different places and
not having the adequate facilities we ought to have.
* * * * *
STORE VEGETABLES FOR THE WINTER.--The basement is often the
best place on the farm for storing vegetables, says R. S. Gardner, of the
University of Missouri, College of Agriculture. It must be properly
built, and the temperature, moisture, and ventilation conditions kept
right if the best results are to be obtained. If it is too warm the
vegetables will dry and shrivel, and if the ventilation is poor, drops
of water will form and the vegetables will be more likely to decay. If
there is a furnace in the cellar, the storage room should be far enough
away so that it can be kept cool, and during very cold weather the door
may be opened to prevent freezing.--Mo. Exp. Sta.
Tomatoes for the Kitchen Garden.
C. W. PURDHAM, MARKET GARDENER, BROOKLYN CENTER.
The first and most important thing in raising tomatoes is good seed. To
raise good tomatoes does not depend so much on the variety you have as
it does on the seed.
In the fall select your best tomatoes and save the seed. Then about the
first of April sow your seed.
You can sow them in a box behind the stove, and as soon as they are up
give them all the sunlight you can. When they are about two inches high,
have some four-inch flower pots and transplant, giving them a good
thorough wetting before removing them from the seed box to the flower
pots.
By this time it will be warm enough to have a cold frame, which may be
prepared by nailing four boards together any size desired. One three by
six feet will hold about 150 plants. Shelter it well from the north and
slope it a little to the south with enough dirt in the frame to hold
your pots.
You can cover them with storm windows or cloth tacked onto frames. Keep
well covered nights and give all the sunlight possible through the day.
After danger of frost is past, set them out. Sandy loam is best, which
must be well pulverized and fertilized.
After you have removed the plant from the pot and set it in the ground,
place the pot about two inches from the plant, also about two inches
deep in the ground. Then throw a small handful of dirt in each pot and
fill with water as often as necessary.
This is the best way of watering that I know.
Mr. Sauter: What kind do you think is the best for an early variety?
Mr. Purdham: Well, the Earliana is extensively raised and the Dwarf
Champion.
Mr. Sauter: What do you think of the Red Pear?
Mr. Purdham: I don't know anything about that, but for a late variety of
tomato the Ponderosa is quite a tomato; it is a very large tomato.
Mr. Sauter: How about the Globe?
Mr. Purdham: That is a good tomato.
Mr. Sauter: What do you know of the paper cartons instead of flower
pots?
Mr. Purdham: I have never tried the cartons; I should think they would
be all right.
Mr. Miller: In saving your seed from year to year, is there any danger
of the seed running out in time?
Mr. Purdham: I don't think so. If you take your best tomatoes I think
you will improve them.
Mr. Miller: I should think the germination of that seed would run out?
Mr. Purdham: That may be, I can't say as to that. There are people that
make a specialty of studying that.
Annual Report, 1915, Vice-President, First Congressional District.
F. I. HARRIS, LA CRESCENT, MINN.
In making a report for the First Congressional District, I will say at
the beginning, that all my observations and interviews were taken in
Houston and Winona counties, an especially favored locality this year,
and I am well aware that the conditions and results are exceptional and
do not form a just estimate for the district and are certainly very much
above the average. The apple crop in the section named was a record
breaker, and where trees were at all cared for and properly sprayed the
quality and size of the fruit was very superior and remarkably free from
insect pests and disease.
[Illustration: Bridge on Lakeside Drive, at Albert Lea, in First
Congressional District.]
The yield of several orchards in this vicinity was from 1,000 to 15,000
barrels of marketable fruit, an increase of nearly 100 per cent above
the largest previous crop. From this station twenty-one carload lots of
apples, averaging 200 barrels per car, were shipped, besides nearly as
many more sold in the local markets of La Crosse and Winona and shipped
in small lots by freight and express. The prices obtained were in all
cases good, considering that the varieties grown are mostly summer and
fall and had to be sold in competition with Iowa and Illinois fruit.
While all markets were over-supplied, the demand for the quality of
fruit grown here in the commercial orchards was greatly in excess of
the supply and attracted buyers from Chicago and the Twin Cities and has
built a permanent market so long as the quality keeps up to this year's
standard.
At the same time, I am more than ever impressed with the necessity for
some manner of utilizing the surplus and low grade fruit with which the
local markets are flooded. It seems a great waste to have thousands of
bushels of apples fed to hogs and left to rot on the ground which would
be a large asset if converted into vinegar or canned. More than one-half
the fruit brought from farms is only fit for such use and by being
forced on the market serves to lower prices and demand for good fruit. I
visited one farm orchard within twenty miles of here and saw at a low
estimate 400 bushels of apples lying on the ground, all of which could
have been utilized in a factory, but not having been sprayed were not
fit for barreling, and the owner had turned the hogs in to get rid of
them. This is a condition that is sure to become worse in view of the
many small orchards recently set, besides the commercial orchards that
are just coming into bearing. From the reports received, in reply to
circulars sent out, I gather that the crop varied from nothing to 100
per cent and the quality in corresponding ratio, depending in most cases
upon whether orchards were properly sprayed or neglected.
Scab and other diseases caused a large proportion of the fruit set to
drop, and the remainder was unsalable in unsprayed orchards.
Considerable blight is reported in a number of orchards, especially
where cultivated. Trees growing in sod were noticeably free from it.
Practically nothing is being done to prevent its spreading. While
cutting out the affected wood may in some cases check it, I am satisfied
a better remedy will have to be found before it is wiped out. In my own
orchard just a few trees located on low land and under cultivation were
affected, and not a single case in sod.
There is from all reports an abundance of moisture in the ground, and
trees are in good condition to stand a hard winter, except that in some
cases the buds started during the warm days of November.
The crop of strawberries was generally a very light one on account of
blossoms being injured by late frosts and winter killing, but a few
correspondents report a full crop.
Other small fruits, including currants, raspberries and blackberries,
were a practical failure and light crop.
The crop of grapes was very light and in only a few favored localities
ripened before killing frosts. Plums, except in a few instances, were a
failure, the exceptions being in case of the Hansen hybrids.
[Illustration: Residence of S.H. Drum, Owatonna, in First Congressional
District--a veteran member of the society]
While more varieties of apples are successfully grown in this vicinity
than elsewhere in the state, and some correspondents recommend a long
list, my experience and advice is to set only a few varieties of known
commercial value, and while far too many early apples are being grown,
this condition is better than planting winter apples of unknown
hardiness and quality. The Northwestern Greening is the most profitable
winter apple here, but I understand it is not hardy in some localities
in the state.
* * * * *
ALASKAN BERRY HYBRIDS.--At the Sitka Experiment Station in
Alaska a strain of hardy strawberries is in the making, the result of
crosses between the native of the Alaskan coast region and cultivated
varieties. Several thousand seedlings have been grown, all very vigorous
and most of them productive and of high quality. The native variety of
the interior of Alaska is now to be used in similar crosses.
The Cuthbert raspberry has been crossed with its relatives, the native
Salmonberry (_Rubus spectabilis_ Pursh.) and the Thimbleberry (_R.
parviflorus_ Nutt.). The only interesting fact so far developed is that
the hybrids of the two species first named are almost entirely sterile.
Annual Report, 1915, Vice-President, Seventh Congressional District.
P. H. PETERSON, ATWATER, MINN.
From the answers received on blanks sent out I find there was a fair
crop of apples raised throughout this district, with the trees in good
condition for winter. Wood is well ripened up, leaves all shed and
plenty of moisture in the soil.
[Illustration: A productive strawberry field at P. H. Peterson's Atwater
fruit farm.]
All report none or very little blight this year. Spraying is not done
generally, but those few who do it are getting results. In our own
orchard, which was sprayed twice last spring, we have not found one
wormy apple.
Plums, none or a very few. Mr. Bjornberg, of Willmar, reports the
Surprise plum a full crop, others a total failure. Compass cherry bore a
fair crop, but with me it rotted badly, as also did Prof. Hansen's
plums, Sapa and Opata.
Grapes: Not many are grown except the Beta, which bore a heavy crop in
spite of the late spring frosts.
Blackberries: Nothing doing.
Raspberries and strawberries were a light crop. Strawberries especially
were badly damaged by late spring frosts--with me they were nearly a
total failure except the everbearing, which gave us a good crop. And I
want to add that they are here to stay for home use, and possibly as a
market berry. Plants are fully as hardy as the June-bearing sorts. No
matter how many times the blossoms are frozen off in the spring they
will come right out again and give us berries until it freezes up in
the fall.
Currants and gooseberries were a fair crop.
From the reports I gather that less nursery stock has been planted here
than usual, but with good results, as the season has been favorable for
plantings.
The fruit list recommended by the State Horticultural Society can be
relied on in this locality.
There is a good deal of interest shown here in top-working the better
quality winter apples onto hardy trees with good results, and the
Hibernal seems to be the best stock to use--it certainly ought not to be
planted for any other purpose. The apple is a drug on the market, and
those who planted largely of this variety find it difficult to dispose
of the crop at any price.
* * * * *
STUDYING FRUITS IN ILLINOIS.--Many seedling apples are being
grown at the Illinois Experiment Station. Reciprocal hybridizations
between standard orchard varieties and various species of the genus
Malus have been made, fifty-seven species and varieties which are not of
commercial importance having been obtained from the Arnold Arboretum at
Boston. Direct improvement through these violent crosses is not
anticipated, but it is hoped to acquire valuable information regarding
the affinities of the various species used, and also to produce material
for use in back crossing. Reciprocal crosses between standard orchard
varieties are also being made in large numbers, while a difficult piece
of work has been attempted in the reciprocal crossing of different
strains of the same variety, and different individuals of the same
strain. C.S. Crandall writes: "This project has aimed at the selfing of
particular individuals, and the use on trees here of pollen from trees
of the same variety in orchards 100 miles away and grown under quite
different conditions. Considerable effort has been expended in the
prosecution of this project, but up to the present time we have recorded
no successful pollinations. We have not as yet a very wide range of
varieties, but as far as we have gone we have encountered complete
sterility in the selfing within the individuals and in the attempt to
use pollen of the same variety brought from a distance. The unfortunate
feature about all the hybridizing work with apples is the mongrel
character of the plants on which we work. We know nothing of the
parentage of any of our varieties, and it seems quite useless to
speculate on what the segregation of characters may be in crosses
between different varieties. A further discouraging feature in apple
breeding is the long period required to get results from any particular
cross. Effort is being made to shorten this period by grafting scions of
hybrid seedlings on dwarf stocks and growing the plants in pots. This
will help some, but at best the attainment of results is some distance
in the future. We are endeavoring to maintain a reasonably complete
record of every step that is taken so that a complete history may be
available for those who may later continue the work.
"In pursuing the projects as outlined above there are a number of minor
problems that are receiving some attention: such as the retention of the
vitality of pollen, the period of receptivity, the seed production in
hybrid fruits, and the time for and percentage of the germination of
seeds. On all of these points we are accumulating considerable
information that it is hoped may be of some practical value."--Journal
of Heredity.
Spraying the Orchard.
HON. H. M. DUNLAP, SAVOY, ILLS.
I don't know whether I am out of place with this topic of mine or not
with a Minnesota audience, but I came through the exhibit rooms as I
came up to the hall, and whether you spray or not you certainly need to,
for I saw all sorts of fungous diseases upon your fruit. I presume that
these are not the poorest specimens you have--very few people, you know,
bring the poorest specimens they have to an exhibition place, Mr.
President, and I presume that if these are the best you have the poorest
must be pretty bad in the way of fungous diseases.
Of course, people don't like to have their faults told them, but if we
have anything the matter with us it is best for us to find out what the
matter is and then get rid of it. It is better than to do as many did in
the commercial fruit-growing states a number of years ago about the San
Jose scale, those that were interested in having that fact suppressed,
or at least thought they were interested in having the fact suppressed
that they had San Jose scale within the confines of their state. They
didn't want that information to get out, so they didn't discuss the
matter of San Jose scale in their societies.
In Illinois we took a different view of that proposition, and it was,
that we had the San Jose scale and we thought the thing to do was to
stamp it out, to get after it. So we agitated that subject in our
society and talked about it. We had the state entomologist canvass the
entire state to find out where the San Jose scale was doing its work and
gave him authority to go in and spray those places or cut down the trees
and get them out of the way. The effect of that work is very evident.
The people of other states would point to us saying that they did not
have the scale but that we had because we reported the fact, but I know
they now have it a great deal worse than we do because of this neglect.
In this matter of spraying and spraying materials, if we go back in
history--we have to look for truth wherever we find it, whether it comes
from low or high sources. As a matter of fact thieves and sheep ticks
and ignorance are largely responsible for our spraying and the spraying
materials of today. It doesn't sound very well in a scientific body to
talk that way, but truth is truth wherever you find it, whether it comes
from the university professor or from the farmer. If we recognize truth,
from whatever source it comes, then we are open-minded and can take
advantage of things that will be greatly to our benefit.
In the matter of spraying materials: They were discovered through
accident, in an effort to prevent thieving in the vineyards of Bordeaux,
France. It seems that workmen on the way to their places of employment
were in the habit of foraging on the vineyards of the farmers along the
way. To prevent that some of the fruit growers conceived the idea it
would be a good thing in order to scare them to get blue vitriol and mix
it with water and spray it on the fruit along the roadside. Later in the
season, very much to their surprise, they found that the grapes that
were treated in that way were not affected with the brown rot. So they
tried it again to see whether they were right about that being the
cause, and it wasn't long before they used it for that purpose. They
stopped the thieving, but they also discovered a scientific truth, that
the Bordeaux mixture was a fungicide and that fact has been of immense
value to the world since then.
When the San Jose scale came into this country from the west, some man
who had used sheep dip for sheep ticks, said: "If it is a good thing
against sheep ticks, why isn't it good against this little vermin they
call the San Jose scale?" He tried it on the trees, and he found that it
was an effective remedy for the San Jose scale. So we have lime-sulphur
today as one of the spray materials in very common use.
Among other things the scientists told us we couldn't use lime-sulphur
and arsenate of lead together, that they would have to be sprayed over
the orchard in separate sprays, that is, we would have to go over the
orchard with lime-sulphur and then again with arsenate of lead, that
when you combined the two the chemical combination was such that it
deteriorated the lime-sulphur. Some farmer who didn't know about that
scientific proposition determined to put them both on together, and he
found that it not only worked all right but that the two were really
more effective when combined than if put on separately. So you see it
was thieves, sheep ticks and ignorance that are responsible for three of
our most successful ways of spraying at the present time.
Now, scientific men have come in and given us a great deal of
information along various lines in regard to spraying, and I don't decry
science in any sense at all. These men, while they were not
scientifically educated, discovered scientific truths, and it is truths
we want after all.
Just what your position on this spraying proposition is here in
Minnesota, whether you have commercial orchards up here or not, I have
not been able to discover. I presume that your plantings here are very
largely that of the farmer and amateur rather than the commercial
orchardist. In Illinois we have our large commercial orchards, and we
have gotten beyond the question of whether it pays us to spray or not.
For a man to be in the commercial apple business in Illinois and not
spray means that he doesn't accomplish very much and his product doesn't
bring him any profit.
Now, whether you spray commercially or whether you spray for your family
orchard in an amateur way, it doesn't matter so far as the spraying is
concerned--you should spray in either case. If you have a community
where you have few orchards and they are small, it behooves you to get
together and buy a spraying outfit, combine with your neighbors and buy
a good spraying outfit, and then have some man take that matter up who
will do it thoroughly in that neighborhood and pay him for doing it. In
that way, if you hire it done, it doesn't interfere with your farming
operations and gets your spraying done on time. I have noticed this with
stockmen and with grain farmers, men who are not directly interested in
fruit but combine it with their regular business, that they consider
fruit growing a side line and such a small part of their business that
they usually neglect it altogether. In the matter of the spraying they
keep putting it off until tomorrow. When the time arrives for spraying
you must do it _today_ and not put it off until tomorrow.
Time is a very essential element in spraying. To give you an
illustration: A few years ago, in spraying a Willow Twig orchard,
consisting of eighteen rows of trees, I sprayed nine rows of those
trees, or about half of the orchard, we will say, the first part of the
week, the first two days. And then there came on a two or three days'
rain, and the balance of those eighteen rows was sprayed the very last
of the week or the first of the following week. The two following
sprayings went on just at the right time for them, but when it came to
the harvesting of that crop the trees that were sprayed first, that were
sprayed immediately after the bloom fell, produced 175 bushels of very
fine No. 1 fruit, free from scab, while the other nine rows, equal in
every respect so far as the trees are concerned and the amount of bloom
there was, produced seventeen bushels of No. 2 fruit, no No. 1 fruit at
all.
The Willow Twig is one of those varieties that is very susceptible to
scab, and of course this is a marked illustration of what happens if you
don't spray at the right time. Notwithstanding the fact that the nine
rows, the last ones, I speak of, were sprayed with the two following
sprays at the same time that the other part of the orchard was sprayed,
the results were entirely different because the first spraying, which
was really the important one so far as the scab is concerned, was not
put upon the tree at the right time.
The scab fungus, which seems to appear on your apples out here, is one
of the most insidious diseases we have in the whole fruit industry. I
think that scab fungous disease is probably the one that affects you the
most. Now, scab fungus will not be noticed particularly in the spring of
the year. The time that those spores are most prevalent, the period of
their movement as spores in the atmosphere and the lodging upon the
fruit, is right at the beginning, right about the time of the blossoming
or immediately following. For a period of about two weeks at blooming
time and after is the time that you have that condition.
And the trouble is--it is just like typhoid fever. You let typhoid fever
get into a family, and they do not think anything of it except to take
care of the patient properly if he has it, but it doesn't scare the
neighbors, it does not interest them. But let the smallpox break out in
a community, and everybody is interested and scared to death for fear
they are going to get the smallpox.
Well now, as compared with things of a fungous nature, the scab is a
good deal like typhoid fever. The latter is insidious and it will
destroy more--I take it there are more people die in the United States
of typhoid fever every year than die of smallpox, ten to one. I haven't
the statistics but I have that in mind, that it is a fact that they do,
and yet there isn't half the fuss made about typhoid fever that there is
about smallpox.
Now, that is so about the scab fungous disease. In Illinois, to
illustrate, we have what is called the bitter rot fungus in the southern
part of the state. If any one has the bitter rot they are scared to
death, they think they are suffering untold misfortune. The bitter rot
attacks the apples when nearly grown. The ground is covered with the
rotted apples, and you can see them in the trees, but this little bit of
scab fungus, they do not seem to notice that.
The reason is this, that scab comes from very minute spores that appear
upon the apples in May or June, and as the summer advances they spread
more and more. It depends, of course, upon the amount of moisture there
is present, but it begins its work when the apples are very small. If it
gets upon the stem of the apple it works around the stem and the apple
drops off, and you have apples dropping from the time they are the size
of peas until the very last of the fall, and while it looks in the month
of June as if you are going to have a good crop of apples when it comes
harvest time your crop has diminished greatly or to nothing, and you
wonder where it has gone. With this scab fungus they just keep dropping,
dropping, all through the season; whenever you have a little rain or
wind these apples that are affected will drop off. You don't notice them
very much because they go so gradually, one at a time or so, and you
don't notice you are having any particular loss until it comes fall, and
you find that your crop is very small.
That is why I say, you should wake up to the fact that it is necessary
for you to spray if you are going to have perfect fruit and plenty of
it--and I doubt not you could increase the amount of fruit you have in
the State of Minnesota by ten times in one year by simply spraying your
orchards thoroughly at the proper time with fungicide.
To do this, as I said, you must have a spraying outfit, individually or
collectively, in your neighborhood, and if you get one individually you
can take the contract to spray your neighbor's trees, if you wish, and
get back enough to pay you for the outlay. If you have only a few trees
and you have some one who understands it, you could just as well spray a
few other orchards in the neighborhood and get your spraying done for
nothing in that way, charging them enough to cover the cost and enough
for some profit. That is done in some sections and is a very
satisfactory way.
The only way, however, that I would do this, if I were you, would be to
enter into a joint arrangement of not less than five years, because if
you do it from year to year, if a man has good fruit one year, he may
say, "I guess I don't want to go to that expense this year; I will drop
that." You know how it is. If you make a contract for five years then
you can make your plans accordingly and get your material and your
spraying outfit and everything. I wouldn't trust to a one-year plan
because they get "cold feet," as the saying is, after the first year,
and perhaps they have not noticed any great advantage and they back
out, but if they keep it up five years they wouldn't be without it.
In a small way it isn't necessary to have a high power, high pressure
engine to do this spraying with. A _good_ hand pump, as they make them
now, has a very efficient force in applying this spray. It is not the
force with which the spray material is applied that makes it effective,
so much as it is the thoroughness with which it is done. You have to do
a thorough job. In spraying you are providing insurance for your apple
crop. That is just what it means, and not to spray is like doing without
fire insurance on your buildings. You do that, not because you want
fire, but you are doing it for protection, you are going to be on the
safe side. You are doing like the darkey woman when she was about to be
married. She had been working as cook, and the day came for her to be
married. That morning she brought a roll of bills down to the boss. She
said: "Mr. Johnson, I wish you would keep this money for me. I's gwine
to be married." He said: "Is that so? But why do you come to me with
this? I should think having a husband you would have him take care of it
for you." She said: "Lord a' massy. Do you think I was gwine to have
that money around the house wid dat strange nigger there? No, sir."
(Laughter.)
That lady was taking the precaution of being on the safe side, and that
is what we do when we spray our orchards, we are going to be safe.
There are a great many kinds of spraying materials. There is the
bordeaux, one of our best fungicides, but we find in Illinois that it
also, while it is a good fungicide, has the effect sometimes of burning
the fruit if the weather conditions are just right. If you have pretty
fair weather conditions up here and don't have too much rain, you
probably would not get your fruit affected too much, and if you are not
growing it for market it doesn't matter so much because all it does is
to russet the fruit. It doesn't do any particular harm except when the
scab fungus is especially bad, for then it does injure the foliage more
or less. On the whole, in Illinois, we are using the lime-sulphur in
preference to the bordeaux, and our commercial orchard growers there
have completely abandoned the bordeaux except for bitter rot fungus or
blotch fungus, which comes late in the season. The spray just before the
bloom is a very important one for the scab fungus. After you can see the
pink of the bloom on the trees as they begin to look pink, before the
blossoms open, put on your lime-sulphur, or you can use bordeaux mixture
at that time if you prefer it, without injury to your fruit.
(To be continued in April No.)
Everbearing Strawberries.
GEO. J. KELLOGG, JANESVILLE, WIS.
A few words about this new breed. Progressive, Superb and Americus are
the best three I have found in the last ten years--don't confound
American with Americus. Pan-American was the mother of the whole tribe.
This variety was found in a field of Bismark, by S. Cooper, New York,
and exhibited all through the Buffalo World's Fair. There is where my
first acquaintance with it was formed. From this one plant and its
seedlings all the ten thousand everbearers have been grown. But
Pan-American don't make many plants. There are a great many good kinds
in the ten thousand, and a great many of them worthless. So look out
when and where you buy. I have great hopes of your No. 1017, but kinds
do not adapt themselves to all soils or climates.
I have not found any success with the everbearers south of the Ohio. I
have tried them three years in Texas. I sent plants to Bro. Loring, in
California, and they failed to produce satisfactorily. Missouri grows
almost all Aroma; California but two kinds commercially; Texas only
Excelsior and Klondike for shipment. I hope our No. 3 Minnesota
June-bearing and our No. 1017 Everbearing, will have as great a range as
Dunlap.
Friend Gardener, of Iowa, has a lot of "thousand dollar kinds." I hope
some of them will do wonders. He sold 5,000 quarts of fruit after August
15. A firm at Three Rivers, Mich., this season advertised 30,000 cases
in September, but perhaps it was only 3,000; I have known printers to
make mistakes. My boy's beds of Superb, Progressive and Americus were
loaded with ripe and green fruit and blossoms October 1st this year.
Most, if not all, know the fruit must be kept off the everbearers the
season of planting till the plants get established, usually two or three
months, then let them bear. If you want all fruit, keep off the runners;
if all plants, keep off the fruit. Beds kept over that have exhausted
themselves will need rest till July to give big crops. Beds kept over
will fruit a week earlier than the June varieties, rest a few weeks,
then give a fall crop, but don't expect too much unless you feed them.
There are ten thousand kinds of new everbearers, so don't buy any that
have not been tried and proven worthy. There are thousands that are
worthless. Friend Haralson only got No. 1017 out of 1,500 sorts. He has
now 3,000 new kinds, set out four feet apart each way, he is testing.
From what many growers are doing this breed will pay commercially, but
it will be by experts. I have not time to advocate cultivation in hills
or hedge rows; if you want big berries this is the way to get them. Be
sure your straw mulch and manure mulch are free from noxious weed or
clover and grass seeds. Everbearers need the same winter care as June
varieties and a good deal more manure. Don't cover with asparagus tops
unless free of seed. Put manure either fresh or rotted on the old bed
with a manure spreader or evenly by hand. There is a possibility of
manuring too heavily.
[Illustration: A typical everbearing strawberry plant as it appears in
September.]
Mr. Durand: What is the best spray for leaf-spot and rust in
strawberries?
Mr. Kellogg: Cut it out and burn it, but then there are some sprays with
bordeaux mixture that will help you, but you have got to put it on
before the rust shows itself.
Mr. Miller: I would like to ask Mr. Kellogg if he advises covering the
strawberries in the winter after snow has fallen and with what success?
Mr. Kellogg: If the snow isn't too heavy you can do it just as well
after the snow comes as before, but if your snow comes early and is a
foot deep you have got to wait until the January thaw before you can
successfully mulch them. That snow will protect them until it thaws off,
until the ground commences to freeze. If the snow comes early and stays
late it is all the mulch you need.
Mr. Franklin: Are oak leaves as they blow off from the trees on the
strawberry beds, are they just as good to protect them as straw would
be--when there are lots of oak leaves?
Mr. Kellogg: If you don't put them on too thick. You don't want more
than two inches of leaves. If you do they will mat down and smother your
plants.
Mr. Ludlow: Have you had any experience with using cornstalks that have
been fed off, just the stalk without the leaves. Is that sufficient for
a winter protection without the straw or leaves? I put on mine just to
cover them. They are four inches apart one way and then across it the
other way so as to hold it up and not get them smothered.
Mr. Kellogg: That is all right. I have covered with cornstalks.
Mr. Ludlow: Would it be policy to leave that on and let the strawberries
come up through, to keep them clean?
Mr. Kellogg: If you get the stalks on one way and haven't them covered
too thick the other way, leave them on; the strawberries will come
through.
Mr. Gowdy: I would like to ask Mr. Kellogg what he thinks of planting
different varieties together.
Mr. Kellogg: It is a good plan. I spoke of Dunlap and Warfield. The
Warfield is a pistillate. If you plant all Warfields you get no fruit.
If you plant all Dunlap it will bear well but it will do better
alongside of a pistillate, or it will do better alongside of some other
perfect. It will do better to plant two or four kinds. They used to ask
me what kinds of strawberries I wanted, and what was the best one kind.
I told them I wanted six or eight in order to get the best kind. I want
an early, and a medium, and a late, two of a kind.
Mr. Gowdy: I planted one year three varieties with great success.
Mr. McClelland: What time do you uncover your strawberries?
Mr. Kellogg: I don't uncover them at all. If you got on four inches of
mulch you want to take off enough so the plants can get through, but
keep on enough mulch in the spring to keep your plants clean and protect
from the drouth.
Mr. McClelland: Will they come through the mulch all right?
M. Kellogg: They will come through all right if it isn't more than two
inches. If they shove up and raise the mulch open it up a little over
the plants.
Mr. Willard: I would like to ask the speaker, the way I understood him,
why he couldn't raise as good strawberries on new ground as on old
ground?
Mr. Kellogg: The soil seems to be too loose. Now, that twenty-one acres
I had, it was full of leaf-mold. It was six inches deep and had been
accumulating for ages. I couldn't account for it only that it was too
loose, and I had to work it down with other crops before I could grow
strawberries.
Mr. Willard: So it would be better to plant on old ground or old
breaking than new?
Mr. Kellogg: Yes, old ground that has been well manured, or old ground
that has never been manured, will grow better strawberries than new
soil, as far as I have tried it. New clover soil is a good soil.
Mr. Wedge: It might add to the value of this discussion to state that
Mr. Kellogg's soil at Janesville is rather light soil anyhow. I am under
the impression that if his soil at Janesville which produced so poorly
on new soil had been a heavy clay soil that the result would have been
different.
Mr. Kellogg: That twenty-one acres was clay after you got down to it and
was in the woods; my other fields were out on the prairie. I don't think
the light soil had anything to do with it, with my failure in the woods,
I think it was the new soil.
Mr. Sauter: Can the everbearing and the common varieties be planted
together?
Mr. Kellogg: Yes, if you are growing plants you want everything.
Mr. Sauter: How far apart must they be planted?
Mr. Kellogg: So their runners won't run together, and they won't mix. If
the runners mix maybe you would get some crosses that are valuable.
Mr. Clausen: I was just thinking it might interfere, that some one might
not plant strawberries at all on account of new soil. I would say I have
a neighbor, and he had entirely new soil. It was black oak and
hickory--I have some of that myself. I never saw a better patch of
strawberries than he had. I don't think I ever saw a better strawberry
patch than he had of the everbearing kind, so I don't think it is just
exactly the old soil.
Mr. Willis: I have my strawberries on new ground, and they did very
fine, couldn't be better. From a space of five feet square I got
twenty-eight boxes, that is, of No. 3.
Mr. Wedge: Forest soil or prairie?
Mr. Willis: It was light clay. I have got about an acre and a half on
new soil now, and they look very fine.
Mr. Glenzke: What would be the consequence of the berries being planted
after tomatoes had been planted there the year before? What would be the
consequence as to the white grub that follows the tomatoes, and other
insects?
Mr. Kellogg: That white grub don't follow tomatoes, if the ground was
clear of white grubs before. It is a three year old grub, and it don't
come excepting where the ground is a marsh or meadow, and doesn't
follow in garden soil, hardly ever. If the ground has been cultivated
two years, you don't have any white grub.
Mr. Glenzke: Part of this ground had been in red raspberries, and I
found them there. This year I am going to put in tomatoes and prepare it
for strawberries. Will that be all right?
Mr. Kellogg: You may get some white grubs after the raspberry bushes if
your raspberries have been two or three years growing. Potato ground is
the best you can follow strawberries with.
Mr. Rasmussen (Wisconsin): What trouble have you experienced with
overhead irrigation with the strawberries in the bright sunshine?
Mr. Kellogg: Everything is against it. You wet the foliage, and it is a
damage to the plants. You can't sprinkle in the hot sun without damage.
Mr. Rasmussen: I didn't mean in putting it on in that way, but where you
use the regular spray system. We watered that way about seven years in
the hottest sunshine without any difficulty, and I wondered if you ever
put in a system and sprayed that way, as I think that is the only way to
put water on.
Mr. Kellogg: If you wait to spray after sundown it will be all right;
the sun mustn't shine on the plants.
Mr. Richardson: Mr. Yankee once said in this society if one man said
anything another man would contradict it. So pay your money and take
your choice. I sprinkle my strawberries in the hot sun, and I never had
any damage done to the plants. His experience is different. Ours is a
heavy clay loam.
Mr. Kellogg: Tell the gentlemen about the peat soil, you had some
experience with peat soil.
Mr. Richardson: No, I never did. It wasn't peat, it was a heavy black
clay and I had the best kind of strawberries, they came right through a
tremendous drouth without any water at all.
Mr. Kellogg: What did you use?
Mr. Richardson: I used a common garden hoe.
Mr. Willis: I heard some one talking about the grub worm. I read of
somebody using fifty pounds of lime to the acre, slaked lime, and 100
pounds of sulphur to the acre in a strawberry bed, and he killed the
insects.
Mr. Kellogg: I think that wouldn't kill the grub; he has a stomach that
will stand most anything. The only thing I know is to cut his head off.
(Laughter.)
Mr. Willis: Would it improve the plants, fertilize the plants, this
lime?
Mr. Kellogg: Lime and sulphur is all right, and the more lime you put on
the better--if you don't get too much. (Laughter.)
Mr. Sauter: I am growing the Minnesota No. 3, and also the No. 1017 as
an everbearer. Is there any kind better than those two?
Mr. Kellogg: I don't believe there is anything yet that has been offered
or brought out that I have examined thoroughly that is any better than
June variety No. 3, as grown by Haralson, and the No. 1017 of the
everbearers. He had a number of everbearers that bore too much. There
was No. 107 and No. 108, I think, that I tried at Lake Mills, which bore
themselves to death in spite of everything I could do.
Mr. Simmons: The question has come up two or three times in regard to
peat soil for growing strawberries. Peat soil will grow strawberry
plants first class, but the fruit is generally lacking. That is my
experience. I grew some on peat soil for two or three seasons, and the
plants grew prolific, but I didn't get any fruit.
Mr. Ebler: I would like to ask Mr. Kellogg what treatment he would
advise for a strawberry bed that through neglect has matted completely
over, in which the rows have disappeared.
Mr. Kellogg: Plow out paths and rake out the plants and throw them away
and work the bed over to rows about two feet wide.
President Cashman: I see you all appreciate expert advice. We have Mr.
Kellogg well nigh tired.
Mr. Kellogg: Oh, no; I can stand it all day.
Mr. Cashman: I am sure you all agree that it is a great privilege to
listen to Mr. Kellogg on this subject. If you will follow his advice
very closely it will save you a great many dollars, even to those who
don't grow more than an ordinary family strawberry bed. He has had forty
or fifty years of experience, and he has paid large sums of money for
that experience and now turns it over to you free of charge, and I hope
you will all profit by it.
Mr. Kellogg: I have grown probably 300 different varieties of
strawberries, and the more kinds I grow the less money I make.
(Laughter.)
Mr. Wedge: I would like to ask Mr. Kellogg and I think we would all be
interested in knowing when he began growing strawberries?
Mr. Kellogg: Well, I don't hardly know. I didn't go into the business
until 1852, but I commenced picking strawberries in 1835, and that was
where the Indians had planted them. My father commenced growing
strawberries when I was a boy, but when I got to be a man I went at it
myself in 1852. (Applause.)
_IN MEMORIAM--Mrs. Melissa J. Harris_
Passed January 29, 1916.
Mrs. Melissa J. Harris, widow of the late John S. Harris, one of the
charter members of our society and rightly called the godfather of the
society, passed to her reward on January 29 last, at the age of
eighty-five years. Since the death of her husband, which occurred in
March, 1901, Mrs. Harris has made her home with some one of her four
surviving children, all of whom live in the southeastern part of the
state, not far from La Crescent, where Mr. and Mrs. Harris resided from
1856 up to the time of Mr. Harris' death, some forty-five years.
[Illustration: Mrs. Melissa J. Harris.]
Many of the older members of this society have enjoyed the hospitality
of this kindly home, among them the writer, who passed a very pleasant
day there, looking over the experimental orchards of Mr. Harris, some
twenty years ago. No member of our society surpassed Mr. Harris in his
zeal for its welfare, and he was ready to sacrifice anything apparently
to advance its interests. If the card index of the reports of this
society was examined it would be found that no member has begun to do
the service for the society in the way of contributions to its program,
reports on seedling fruits, experimental work, etc., that was done by
him. His passing left a real void in the life of the association which
has never really been filled. A splendid life size photo of Mr. Harris
adorns the walls of this office; a reproduction from this in reduced
size is opposite page 161, Vol. 1901 of our annual reports.
The funeral services of Mrs. Harris were conducted in the Presbyterian
church at La Crescent, the same building in which services were held
for her husband, at which there were present from our society as
representatives Mr. J.M. Underwood, the late Wyman Elliot, and the
writer. Her body was laid to rest beside that of her husband in Prospect
Hill Cemetery at La Crescent.
Mrs. Harris is survived by four children, ten grandchildren, and nine
great-grandchildren. Frank I. Harris, one of the two sons, is well known
to our membership who attend the annual meetings or the state fair;
another son, Eugene E., who is also a life member (Mr. Harris saw to it
that both of his sons were made life members during his life time) has
occasionally been with us. Mr. D.C. Webster, of La Crescent, at present
in charge of one of the society trial stations, is a grandson of Mrs.
Harris. Exhibitors at our meetings and at the state fair are all well
acquainted with this valuable member of our organization.--Secy.
EAT MINNESOTA APPLES.
Contributed monthly by R. S. MACKINTOSH, Horticulturist,
Extension Division, University Farm, St. Paul.
FRUIT NOTES.
Early spring is the best time to prune apple trees. More and more
attention is being given to the pruning of young and old trees in order
that they may be able to support large loads of fruit. Yet too many
trees have been neglected and now look like brush heaps instead of fruit
trees.
Neglected trees should have all dead and interlocking branches removed
this year. Next year a few more needless branches should be taken out
and some of the others shortened. After this a little attention each
year will keep the tree in good form.
Each year the Agricultural Extension Division of the University of
Minnesota arranges for pruning and spraying demonstrations in different
orchards of the state. Communities wishing this kind of help, should at
once send in petitions signed by fifteen or more persons interested in
fruit growing. Send applications to Director, Agricultural Extension
Division, University Farm, St. Paul.
Pruning is a good subject for farmers' clubs to take up in March and
April.
Look out for rabbit injury this spring. Apple trees cost too much
GARDEN HELPS
Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society
Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So.
Minneapolis.
_Cypripedia_, by Miss Clara Leavitt.
The showy lady's slipper (C. hirsutum) is found in swamps and rich
meadows. Old settlers tell of gathering the pink and white "moccasin
flower" by the bushel, to decorate for some special occasion. Today we
are trying to shield a few in their last hiding places. The draining of
swamps and cutting of meadows has had much to do with their
disappearance. The picking of the leafy stem by the ruthless "flower
lover" cripples the plant for a season or more and frequently kills it
outright. Attempts to transfer it to the home garden have succeeded for
a year or so but rarely longer, perhaps because its native habitat is
very difficult to duplicate.
The small yellow lady's slipper (C. parviflorum), found in bogs, and the
large yellow (C. parviflorum var. pubescens), growing on hillsides and
in rich woods, as well as in swamps, are the most widely distributed and
best known of this genus. They have often been transferred from the wild
to the home garden. Where they have been given their native soil and
environment the stock has increased and seedlings have developed. They
have even been brought into conservatory or window garden and forced to
flower in February.
The crimson stemless lady's slipper (C. acaule) is found in drier woods
and on the stump knolls of swamps in certain locations. It has with
difficulty been established in a few gardens.
The small white lady's slipper (C. candidum) occurs locally in boggy
meadows. It is a very dainty plant. It grows in at least one wild
garden.
The ram's head lady slipper (C. arietinum) is very rare and local. It is
a very delicate and pretty thing, purple and white in color.
All of these species are to be seen in season in the Wild Garden of the
Minneapolis Park System.
* * * * *
Committee on the protection of Cypripedia: Mrs. Phelps Wyman, chairman;
Miss Clara Leavitt, Miss M. G. Fanning, Mrs. C. E. C. Hall, Mrs. E. C.
Chatfield, Mr. Guy Hawkins.
* * * * *
Our plant exchange should be of great benefit to our members, such a
fine beginning having been made last spring. Send a list of the plants
you have for exchange and those you would like to receive to our
secretary. These will be posted upon the bulletin board at our meetings,
where exchanges can be arranged between the members.
* * * * *
March 23. Public Library, Minneapolis, 2:30 p.m. Meeting of Garden
Flower Society. Program:
Our Garden Enemies.
Cultural Directions for Trial Seeds.
Distribution of Trial Seeds.
Minnesota Cypripedia. Have they responded to Cultivation?
BEE-KEEPER'S COLUMN
Conducted by FRANCES JAGER, Professor of Apiculture, University
Farm, St. Paul.
IMPORTANCE OF GOOD QUEENS.
The government census of 1910 gives the average of honey production per
colony for the State of Minnesota at five pounds per colony. Allowing
for mistakes which were made in making up this census, there is no doubt
that the average amount of honey produced by a colony is not nearly as
high as efficient beekeeping would make it. When some well known
beekeepers will average year after year fifty, seventy and even a
hundred pounds per colony, there must be something wrong with those who
fall far below this amount.
There are many causes responsible for this failure of honey crops. Bad
management, no management at all, antiquated or impossible equipment,
locality, etc., are all factors contributing towards a shortage in the
honey crop, but poor queens are the most universal cause of
disappointment. The queen being the mother of the whole colony of bees,
the hive will be what she is. If she is of a pure, industrious, gentle,
hardy and prolific strain, the colony over which she presides will be
uniform, hard working, easy to handle, easy to brave the inclemency of
the weather and the severity of our winters, and populous in bees. The
bees partake of the characteristics of the queen.
The fact of the matter is, that more than 90% of our Minnesota queens
are either black Germans or hybrids, neither of which lend themselves to
pleasant and profitable beekeeping. Having been inbred for years will
make them still less valuable, and most of them have been inbred for
generations.
Among many things in which the beekeepers of Minnesota should begin to
improve their beekeeping possibilities, the necessity of good queens
comes first. With a new strain of pure, gentle, industrious, leather
colored Italian bees, their love for beekeeping should receive a new
impetus, leading them to better equipment and better management.
It was with this point in view that the University of Minnesota has
secured the best breeding queens obtainable from which to raise several
thousands of queens for the use of beekeepers of the state.
These queens will be sold each year during the months of June, July and
August at a nominal price of fifty cents each, and not more than three
to each beekeeper. The University is ready to book orders now. There is
such a demand for these queens that last year only one-quarter of the
orders could be filled. Given three pure Italian queens to start with, a
beekeeper may easily re-queen his whole bee-yard in the course of a
year. Detailed printed instructions how to proceed will be sent out to
all buyers of queens free of charge.
Time has come to start bee-keeping on a more profitable basis, and the
first step towards better success should be a new strain of queens.
ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTES
By F.L. WASHBURN, Professor of Entomology, University of
Minnesota.
RABBITS; RABBIT-PROOF FENCES; FIELD MICE.
Probably the thoughtful orchardist has before this date visited his
orchard and trampled the deep snow down around his young fruit trees for
a distance of two feet on all sides of each trunk, thus preventing
rabbits from reaching the trunk above the protected part, or from eating
the branches in the case of low-headed trees. Even at this date, this
should be done where the snow lies deep. Frequent tramplings about the
young trees also protects the trees from possible injury by field mice
working beneath the snow.
This leads us to speak of our experiences with so-called "rabbit-proof"
fencing. In the summer time, when an abundance of food is everywhere
offered, these small mesh fences are generally effective barriers, but,
in the case of the low fences, drifting snow in winter permits an easy
crossing, and in the case of the higher fences which have the narrow
mesh at the bottom, gradually widening toward the top, it is possible
for a rabbit to get his head and body through a surprisingly small space
between the wires. The writer was astonished, late last autumn, previous
to any snowfall, to see one of these pests, which had jumped from its
"nest" in his (the writer's) covered strawberry-bed, run to the
inclosing fence, which was provided with the long, narrow mesh above
alluded to, raise himself on his hind feet and push his way through a
space not more than three inches wide. It would seem, therefore, that
one should accept with some reservation the assertion that these fences
are actually "rabbit-proof."
PREPAREDNESS FOR (INSECT) WAR.
However one may regard the agitation for or against preparing this
country for (or against) war, we are doubtless of all one mind as to the
desirability of being prepared to successfully cope with the various
insect-pests which are sure to arrive during the coming spring and
summer to attack shrubs, fruit trees, berry bushes, melons, cucumbers
and practically all of our vegetables. The Entomologist has every reason
to be thankful that, early last spring, he laid in a supply of arsenate
of lead, Black Leaf No. 40, commercial lime-sulphur, tree tanglefoot,
tobacco dust, also providing himself with an abundance of air-slaked
lime and a spraying outfit suitable for use in a small experiment garden
and orchard at Lake Minnetonka. All gardeners, particularly those who
cannot quickly purchase such things on account of distance from a
supply, should take time by the forelock and obtain materials now, that
they may be ready at hand when very much needed.
AN IMPORTANT DISCOVERY IN ENTOMOLOGY.
An item of importance, and quite far-reaching in its significance is the
fact (as reported at the recent meeting of entomologists at Columbus)
that the odor in stable manure which attracts house flies, has been
"artificially" produced, if that expression may be used, by a
combination of ammonia and a little butyric acid. A pan of this, covered
by cotton, attracted hundreds of flies which deposited their eggs
thereon. The possibilities of making use of this new-found fact are most
promising, and the discovery is especially significant in that it opens
an immense and practically an untried field in entomological work; that
is, the making use of different odors to attract different species of
insects. A series of experiments in this direction with the Mediteranean
fruit fly, also recently reported, have been most surprising but too
extensive to permit of discussion here.
* * * * *
Nurserymen intending to import currants or gooseberries from Europe will
be interested in learning that there is a possibility of a federal
quarantine on shrubs of this genus grown abroad.
State Entomologist Circular No. 36, issued in January, 1916, and
entitled the "Red Rose Beetle," by S. Marcovitch (illustrated), is
available for distribution. Application should be accompanied by one
cent stamp.
SECRETARY'S CORNER
PLANT COMMERCIAL ORCHARDS.--It is well established that in
certain localities at least in the state commercial orcharding is on a
safe basis, offering reasonable financial profits if managed by those
who take pains to inform themselves on the subject, and are then
thorough going enough to practice what they know. This spring will be a
good time to plant such an orchard. Orchard trees of suitable size were
never more plentiful in the nurseries, and undoubtedly the sorts which
you wish to plant can be readily purchased. Ask some of your nearest
nurseries for prices as to 500 trees, either two or three years old,
whichever you prefer.
GIVE YOUR NEIGHBOR A CHANCE TOO.--This means that you should
not be satisfied simply in having secured something of value to
yourself, but pass on to others the valuable opportunity which you
yourself are enjoying. It is a well established principle of life that
the greatest happiness consists in giving happiness to others. As any
member can do his neighbor a favor, without any expense to himself, and
indeed with profit, by putting his neighbor in touch with the valuable
facilities offered by the Horticultural Society, there is evidently a
double reason why he should do so. For the small membership fee charged
you can put into his hands all the material referred to on the next
page. Read it over and lend your neighbor a helping hand.
TIMELY NOTES IN OUR MONTHLY.--There will be in our monthly
magazine during most of the rest of the months of the year five pages
devoted to timely topics. The experience of the past year or two in this
direction encourages us to believe that this will prove to be the most
valuable portion of our monthly. One page, as heretofore, will be
operated in the interest of garden flowers, edited by Mrs. E. W. Gould;
another page, prepared by Prof. R.S. Mackintosh, under the head of
"fruit notes," which subject indicates clearly its purpose. Prof.
Francis Jager, the Apiarist at University Farm, will prepare another
page, pertaining to the keeping of bees. Prof. F.L. Washburn, the State
Entomologist, will have a page devoted to insect life as interesting the
horticulturist. The fifth page will be handled by Profs. A.G. Ruggles
and E.C. Stakman jointly devoted entirely to the subject of "spraying."
Each issue of the magazine will contain these notes as applying to the
month just following. They will be found well worth studying.
ARE YOU A LIFE MEMBER?--Of course if you are interested in the
work of the Horticultural Society and likely to live ten years you ought
to be a life member. Experience with this roll for twenty-five years now
as secretary of the society indicates that a life membership in the
society is almost an assurance that you will prolong your days. A list
of deaths in the life membership roll published year by year would
indicate that our life members are going to be with us far beyond the
average span of human life. Since publishing a list of new life members
in the February Horticulturist, there have been added to this life list
five names: Tosten E. Dybdal, Elbow Lake, Minn.; Gust Carlson,
Excelsior; A.N. Gray, Deerwood; A.M. Christianson, Bismarck, N.D.; Chas.
H. Lien, St. Cloud.
If you have already paid your annual fee for this year, send us $4.00
more and your name will be placed on the life roll with the balance of
$5.00 to be paid one year from how--or send $9.00, and that makes a full
payment.
[Illustration: HORTICULTURAL BUILDING (SHOWING NEW GREENHOUSES
ATTACHED) AT UNIVERSITY FARM, ST. ANTHONY PARK, MINN.]
While it is not the intention to publish anything in this
magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be
remembered that the articles published herein recite the
experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must
always be noted in estimating their practical value.
THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST
Vol. 44 APRIL, 1916 No. 4
Dwarf Apple Trees.
DR. O.M. HUESTIS, MINNEAPOLIS.
I have here a sample of McIntosh Red grown on a standard tree--a
beautiful apple and well colored. Here I have the same variety grown on
one of my dwarf trees, not quite as well colored.
Now, the dwarf tree that bore these apples has been planted two years;
this is the second year of its growth in my own ground at Mound, on Lake
Minnetonka.
I have sixty dwarf trees, five of which have been in eight years, and
they have borne six crops of apples. The last ones I got two years ago,
and they were two years old when I got them. I planted five of these
dwarf trees at the same time that I planted forty standards. The dwarfs
have borne more fruit than the standards up to date. Of course, they
have only been in eight years. The standards are Wealthy, Duchess,
Northwestern Greening and one or two Hibernal and some crabs; the dwarf
stock is the Doucin. It is not the Paradise stock, which is grown in
England largely and some in France and Germany. My trees are a little
higher than my head, and I keep them pruned in a certain way. One of my
older trees the second year had ninety-six apples on it. It was a Yellow
Transparent, and they came to maturity very well. Several of my trees
are about four feet high. I had from twenty-five to fifty apples on
them, and they all ripened nicely. The Red Astrachan and the Gravenstein
and one Alexander had a few apples on them, and I notice that they are
well loaded with fruit buds for another year, which will be the third
year planted.
The care of these trees is probably a little more difficult than that of
the standard tree, or, at least, I give them special care. I have
attempted to bud into some of these, but in my experience they do not
take the bud very well. I can take a bud from one of the dwarfs and put
it on a standard, and it will grow all right, but I can't take a bud
from a standard and put it on a dwarf as successfully. I judge it is
because it isn't as rapid growing as the Hibernal, for instance, would
be. I notice the Hibernal is the best to take a bud because it is a
rapid growing tree and an excellent one on which to graft.
If I wanted to plant an orchard of forty or fifty acres I would plant
standard trees and would put the dwarf between the rows, probably twelve
feet apart. Mine are about ten feet apart, some of them a little more,
but I have two rows eight feet apart each way, nine in each row, which
forms a double hedge. I expect them to grow four feet high. I will prune
them just as I wish to make a beautiful double hedge between two
cottages.
[Illustration: Residence of Dr. Huestis, at Mound, Lake Minnetonka.]
In pruning those that have been in eight years I have tried to use the
renewal system as we use it on grapes sometimes. I take out some of the
older branches and fruit spurs that have borne two or three years. They
must be thinned out. I counted twenty apples on a branch a foot long. I
let them grow until they are large enough to stew and then take some off
and use them, when apple sauce is appreciated. I thin them every year
and get a nice lot of good fruit each year.
I have noticed for two years that I have about ninety-eight per cent. of
perfect apples, not a blotch nor a worm. I spray them all, first the
dormant spray and then just as the blossoms are falling, and then one
other spraying in two weeks and another spray three weeks later.
Mr. Ludlow: Do you mulch the ground?
Dr. Huestis: Well, I dig up the ground a little in the spring. The roots
are very near the surface, not very penetrating, and I cultivate around
the roots, but I am careful not to cut them. Every fall I put a good
mulch of leaves and hay around them. I have been a little fearful they
would winter-kill. I wouldn't lose one of them for ten dollars, and I
think it well to mulch them, leaving a little space at the base.
Mr. Andrews: Are the roots exposed in some cases?
Dr. Huestis: Yes, I noticed on two of the older trees, those that have
been in eight years and have borne six crops, you can see the roots on
one side, the top is exposed a little, and I think it would be well to
put a little dirt on those another year. The stock of these dwarf trees
is slow growing with a rapid growing top, and that is what dwarfs them.
I have transplanted one tree three times, which would make four
plantings in eight years, and that tree bore almost as much fruit last
year as any of them. In another case once transplanted I think the tree
is better than the others that were left.
[Illustration: Dwarf Yellow Transparent, bearing 96 apples, third year
from planting at Dr. Huestis'.]
As I said before, if I was planting an orchard I would put dwarf trees
between, and by the time they had borne three or four crops, and you
were expecting a crop of fruit from the standard trees--about seven
years from the time you put them in--I would put the dwarf trees as
fillers, costing about forty cents apiece, and by the time they are
bearing nicely your friends would have seen those, and I believe would
want them at the time you want to take them out. I believe I could sell
any of mine for three or four dollars apiece. I think that would be one
way of disposing of them after you wanted to take them out of the
standard orchard on account of room. That is just a thought of mine.
When I got my first ones eight years ago I gave one to a man who lives
in North Minneapolis, at 1824 Bryant Avenue North. Any one can see it
who lives up in that section. The first year he had twenty-nine apples,
and it has borne each year since. The one which I have transplanted and
which bore last year is a Bismarck. It is a little better apple, in my
mind, than the Duchess. It is a good deal like the Duchess but is a
better keeper and has a better flavor than the Duchess.
[Illustration: Dwarf Bismarck, fourth year, at Dr. Huestis']
I would like to read a quotation to show that the dwarf tree is not a
late thing. Recommending dwarf trees for gardens, "Corbett's English
Garden," published in 1829, says: "I do hope if any gentleman makes a
garden he will never suffer it to be disfigured by the folly of a
standard tree, which the more vigorous its growth the more mischievous
its growth to the garden."
Marshall says, "The fewer standard trees in the garden the better." Also
that the dwarfs are less trouble to keep in order and are generally more
productive, and that "placed eight or nine feet distant, pruned and kept
in easy manner, they make a fine appearance and produce good fruit."
W.C. Drury, highly regarded as a modern English authority, writing in
1900 says: "For the private garden or for market purposes the dwarf, or
bush, apple tree is one of the best and most profitable forms that can
be planted." He also says: "The bush is one of the best forms of all, as
it is of a pleasing shape and as a rule bears good and regular crops."
Mr. Clausen: Don't you have trouble with the mice?
Dr. Huestis: No, sir, have never seen any.
Mr. Clausen: I had an experience a few years ago. My neighbor made a
mistake; he was hauling straw around his apple trees, and he happened to
take one row of mine. We had no fence between us--and he laid the straw
around the trees. I found when I came to examine these trees in the
spring they were all girdled around the bottom. I am afraid to mulch.
Dr. Huestis: I never have taken any chances. Ever troubled with the mice
at your place, Mr. Weld?
Mr. Weld: A little.
Dr. Huestis: I have never had any trouble with the mice. I always put on
a lot of old screen that I take from the cottages that is worn out and
put a wire around it so the mice can't get through it. We must protect
from mice and rabbits.
Mr. Kellogg: How soon do your dwarf trees pay for themselves?
Dr. Huestis: I don't know. I reckon these four have paid about twelve
per cent. on fifteen or twenty dollars this year, and they have right
along. They have paid me better so far during the eight years than the
standards. That might not apply in eight more years, but for a city lot,
a man who has fifty square feet, how many apple trees could he put in
that seventeen feet apart? Nine standard trees. In that same plot of
fifty feet square he could put in sixty-four dwarfs, and it would be a
nice little orchard. I think it is more adapted to the city man. The
ordinary farmer would neglect them, and I should hate to see a farmer
get them, but I would like to do anything for the man living in the city
with only a small plat of land--my vocation being in the city, my
avocation being in the country.
Mr. Kellogg: Are those honest representations of the different apples
from the dwarf and the standard?
Dr. Heustis: I don't know. Those are a fair sample of those I found in a
box on exhibit and are Red McIntosh. They are better colored than mine,
most of them are like this (indicating). I find the Yellow Transparent
that I have budded on the standard better on the dwarf than on the
standard.
Mr. Kellogg: Does it blight any?
Dr. Huestis: No blight; there hasn't ever been a blight. I think that is
one reason why I feel I could recommend them quite conscientiously.
Other trees have blighted when the conditions were favorable.
* * * * *
TWENTY-FIVE BY SEVENTY FOOT PLOT WILL PRODUCE ENOUGH VEGETABLES FOR
A SMALL FAMILY.--Even the smallest back yard may be made to yield a
supply of fresh vegetables for the family table at but slight expense if
two or three crops are successively grown to keep the area occupied all
the time, according to the garden specialists of the department. People
who would discharge a clerk if he did not work the year round will often
cultivate a garden at no little trouble and expense and then allow the
soil to lie idle from the time the first crop matures until the end of
the season. Where a two or three crop system is used in connection with
vegetables adapted to small areas, a space no larger than twenty-five by
seventy feet will produce enough fresh vegetables for a small family.
Corn, melons, cucumbers, and potatoes and other crops which require a
large area should not be grown in a garden of this size. Half an acre
properly cultivated with a careful crop rotation may easily produce $100
worth of various garden crops in a year.
Plums That We Already Have and Plums That Are on the Way.
_The Brown Rot (Monilia) a Controlling Factor._
DEWAIN COOK, FRUIT GROWER, JEFFERS.
By the term "plums we already have" for the purpose of this paper we
shall include only those varieties that have given general satisfaction
over a large territory and for long term of years, and in the writer's
opinion every one of such varieties are of full blooded, pure Americana
origin.
The DeSoto takes the lead of them all. It undoubtedly has more good
points to its credit than any other plum we have ever grown. The Wyant
and the freestone Wolf are considered as being the next two most popular
varieties. These were all wild varieties, found growing in the woods of
Wisconsin and Iowa many years ago.
There are a few other Americana varieties that are nearly as good as are
some of those enumerated, but at present we shall not attempt to name
them. There are many otherwise fine varieties that are not included in
this list of plums we already have, but because of a certain weakness of
the blossom they require to be intermingled with other varieties, or the
blossoms do not fertilize properly. They only bear well when conditions
are very favorable. We class such varieties as being not productive
enough.
Many attempts, with more or less--generally less--success have been made
to improve our native plums through the growing of seedlings. Mr. H.A.
Terry, of Crescent, Iowa, has done more of such work in his day than any
other one man. His method was to plant the Americana kinds, like the
DeSoto, alongside of varieties of the Hortulana type, like the Miner,
then growing seedlings from the best plums thus grown. From such cross
bred seedlings Mr. Terry originated and introduced a great many very
fine varieties. But where are they today? The Hawkeye and the Terry are
about the only ones the general public knows very much about. I will
venture this statement, that as far as I know there is no variety of
native plum in which there is an intermingling of Hortulana or Chickasaw
type that has proven productive enough to be generally profitable.
The Surprise plum belongs to this type, as also does the Terry plum. The
Terry plum we want to keep a while longer, not because it is a mortgage
lifter for the growers but because of the extraordinarily large size of
its fruit, as well as for its fine quality.
There are many injurious insects and fungous diseases that tend to make
life a burden to the man who tries to grow plums in a commercial way.
Among the insects are the plum curculio and the plum tree borer, better
known as the peach tree borer. The curculio sometimes destroys all of
the fruit on the tree, and the borer very often will destroy the whole
tree of any variety.
Among the fungous diseases are the shot hole fungus and the plum pocket
fungus, but the worst of all is that terribly destructive disease of the
plum known as the brown rot. This brown rot fungus sometimes destroys
the whole crop of certain varieties, besides injuring the trees
sometimes as well. This one disease has done more to make plum growing
unpopular than all other causes combined. Give us a cheap and efficient
remedy, one that will destroy the rot fungus and not do injury to the
foliage, buds or tree, and a long stride will have been made towards
making plum growing popular as well as profitable.
_Japanese hybrid plums._--Just now the Japanese hybrid varieties are
attracting considerable attention. One prominent Minnetonka fruit grower
said this to me about them:
"Mr. Cook, what is the use of making all of this fuss about these new
plums? Plums are only used for the purposes of making jelly anyway, and
we can usually get a dollar a bushel for our plums, and they would not
pay any more than that, no matter how large and fine they are."
This brought me up with a jerk, and I have concluded that no matter how
advanced a place in horticulture these new hybrid plums may eventually
take, that there will always be a place for our native varieties, even
if only for the purpose of making jelly.
It seems to the writer that in view of the fact that after many years'
attempt to improve our native plum through the process of seed
selection--and we have made no material advancement in that line--that
the varieties of plums that are on the way must almost of necessity be
the product of the Americana and some of the foreign varieties of plums.
Mr. Theo. Williams, of Nebraska, a few years ago originated a great many
varieties of these hybrid plums. He claimed to have upward of 5,000 of
them growing at one time. Only a few of them, however, were ever sent
out. Of these the writer has been growing for quite a number of years
the Eureka, Emerald, Stella, Omaha, B.A.Q. and some others. As a class
they are all reasonably hardy for my section. They grow rapidly, bear
early, usually the season after they are planted or the top grafts set.
They set fruit more freely and with greater regularity, as the seasons
come, than do the best of our native varieties. The fruit is of larger
size and of firmer flesh, while the quality of some of them, like the
B.A.Q., ranks rather low. The quality of others of them, like the
Emerald, is almost beyond comparison.
One year ago in answer to a question by the writer as to why the people
of Iowa did not take more interest in the planting of these hybrid plums
of Mr. Williams, Mr. C.G. Patten stated that it was because the plums
rotted so badly on the trees. Now, Mr. Patten stated the situation
exactly--most of these fine varieties are notoriously bad rotters. The
brown rot seems to be a disease of moist climate. Nature's remedy is an
abundance of sunshine and a dry atmosphere, but we cannot regulate the
climate. Prof. Hansen has sent out a few varieties of these Japanese
Americana hybrid plums, and our Supt. Haralson is doing a great work
along this line. We can only hope--but cannot expect--that Mr. Hansen's
hybrids or Mr. Haralson's hybrids as a class will prove more resistant
to the brown rot than do those of Mr. Williams of the same class.
We have hopes that from some of Mr. C.G. Patten's hybrids of the
Americana and Domestica plum will come some varieties worthy of general
planting, and also of Prof. Hansen's crosses of the Americana plum and
the Chinese apricots.
There is another class of hybrid plums that are something wonderful in
their way, beginning to bear nearly as soon as they are planted, the
very earliest of all plums to ripen its fruit, immensely productive and
of finest quality. I refer to Prof. Hansen's sand cherry hybrid plums.
My opinion is that Prof. Hansen has done all that man can do in the way
of producing elegant varieties of this class of fruit. But there is the
uncertainty, however, or perhaps I had better say the certainty, that
the brown rot will take a good portion of the crop nearly every
season--sometimes only a part of the crop, and other seasons it may take
the entire crop of these fine sand cherry hybrid plums.
Bordeaux mixture has been the one remedy advertised for years for the
control of this disease, and however well it may work in the hands of
experts of the various university farms, it has not proved uniformly
successful in the hands of the ordinary fruit grower.
Now, if some medicine should be invented, or some magic made, whereby
the brown rot would be banished from our orchards then a great many of
the fine varieties of hybrid plums would be transferred from the "plums
that are on the way" to the list of "plums that we already have." The
brown rot is a controlling factor.
Mr. Kellogg: What do you know about the Surprise?
Mr. Cook: Oh, I know a little more than I want to know about it. I have
had the Surprise a good many years.
Mr. Kellogg: You have been surprised with it?
Mr. Cook: Yes, sir, I have been surprised quite a bit, but in the last
two years since the plum crop failed there have been a few plums on the
Surprise trees, but for a great many years when other plums bore heavily
we got nothing.
Mr. Hansen: Do you know of any plum that has never had brown rot?
Mr. Cook: In my paper--as they only allowed me fifteen minutes I had to
cut it short, and I didn't say very much about the brown rot. All the
Americana plums, and all varieties of plums I have ever grown, have in
some way been susceptible to the brown rot, but some have been more
resistant than others. Now, that is one reason, I believe, why the
DeSoto takes the lead. It is less subject to the brown rot. We have here
a moist climate, and sunshine and dry atmosphere is the remedy, but some
of these varieties have such a peculiar skin it is resistant to brown
rot, and it seems certain, I don't know, if it is not on account of the
thick skin. The Wolf has a thick skin and is subject to brown rot, but
the DeSoto is not subject to that so much but more subject to the
curculio. The Japanese hybrid plums, Mr. Williams said at one time--I
saw in one of the reports--that he had Japanese plums enough to grow
fifty bushels of plums, but he generally only got a grape basket full.
He didn't think very much of them. In these sand cherry hybrids, I think
Mr. Hansen has done all that man could do.
Mr. Ludlow: What is the difference between the brown rot and the plum
pocket fungus?
Mr. Cook: Professor Stakman will tell you that in a later paper, but it
is an entirely different disease. The brown rot will work the season
through. It will commence on some varieties and work on the small plums
and work on the plums half-grown and on the full-grown. The plum pocket
fungus, it works on the plums in the spring of the year and sometimes
takes the whole crop. The Terry plum, I think, a year ago, it took the
whole crop.
Mr. Kellogg: What is the best spray you know of, how often do you apply
it and when?
Mr. Cook: Which is that for, for the brown rot?
Mr. Kellogg: Yes, for the plum generally.
Mr. Cook: Oh, I don't know of any. Let me tell you something, the plum
as a class is very susceptible to injury from sprays. I know when
Professor Luger was entomologist there was some talk of spraying plums
for curculio, and some tried it, and while it generally got the curculio
it killed the trees, and Professor Luger said that the foliage of the
plum was the more susceptible to injury from arsenical poisoning than
that of any other fruit in Minnesota. The Japanese hybrid plums, I
think, will take injury a little bit quicker than the native, and when
you come to the sand cherry plums it is extremely dangerous to spray
with anything stronger than rain water.
Prof. Hansen: I want to talk about the lime-sulphur. We will probably
have that in the next paper, only I want to say that seems to have taken
the place of the Bordeaux mixture. Brown rot, that is something that
affects the peach men too. In the state of Ohio in one year the peach
men lost a quarter of a million dollars from the brown rot, the same rot
that takes our plums. We are not the only ones that suffer from the
brown rot. Well, they kept on raising peaches because they learned to
control it, and if you are not going to spray I think you better give
up. As to trying to get something that won't take the rot, it is
something like getting a dog that won't take the fleas. (Laughter.)
Mr. Older: I had considerable experience in putting out seedling plums.
When large enough to get to bearing there wasn't a good one in the whole
lot. I got some plums, the finest I could pick out, and three years ago
they first came into bearing, and one of my neighbors went over there
when they were ripe and said they were the best plums he had seen, but
since then I have had none. I got some Emerald plums from Mr. Cook. They
were nice plums, and when he came to see them he said, "I came to see
plums, I didn't come to see apples," but the brown rot gets a good many
of them. I had some last year, and just before they ripened the brown
rot struck them, and it not only took all the fruit but got the small
branches as well. I don't know what to do about the brown rot.
Mr. Drum: I would say that my experience was something like Mr. Older's
with the sand cherry crosses. They grew until they were large and I
sprayed them with lime-sulphur. I couldn't see any injury from that
until they were grown, nearly ripe, and then in spite of me in a single
day they would turn and would mummy on the trees. I had a Hanska and
Opata and the other crosses, and they bore well. They were right close
to them, and the brown rot didn't affect them particularly.
Mr. Ludlow: I would like to ask these experts what is the life of a plum
tree. Now, an apple tree, we have them that have been bearing for forty
years, but my plum trees that were put out less than twenty years ago,
they got to be a thicket and they don't bear any large plums at all. I
introduced years ago, if you remember, the Ocheeda plum, that come from
seedlings that we found in the wild plum at Ocheeda Lake. It is a very
fine plum. I had about twelve bushels this year, and I have never seen a
bit of brown rot in that variety of plums, although the other varieties,
if they bore at all, they were brown rotted all over. The Ocheeda plum
has a very thin skin, and when the rain comes at the right time and the
sun comes out they all split open. That is its fault. But my orchard is
getting old; it is twenty years old. I had a young man work for me, and
he left me and bought a new place. I told him he could take up all the
sprouts he wanted of those Ocheeda plums. He did so and put out an
orchard of them. I think that was about ten years ago. This year while
my plums didn't average me, my Ocheedas didn't average, over an inch or
an inch and an eighth in diameter from that old orchard--he had sold out
and gone to California--but from that orchard a man that never thinks of
cultivating sold three wagon loads of the finest plums I ever saw.
Mr. Kellogg: How large were the wagons? (Laughter.)
Mr. Ludlow: Well, the ordinary wagon box. He hauled them and sold them
in town. That was from an orchard that had been left without any
cultivation.
Mr. Philips: I have heard George Kellogg say you could prove anything in
the world in a horticultural meeting. I was glad to have Mr. Cook say a
word in favor of the DeSoto. The first plum I ever bought was a DeSoto
thirty-five years ago. I planted it and never saw any brown rot on it
and had five bushels on it this year. George Kellogg saw it; I can prove
anything by him. (Laughter.) Talking about Prof. Hansen's sand cherry
crosses, I have a number of his trees. I have two in particular that are
nice trees. My wife the last three years has selected her plums from
these trees for preserving and canning. I never saw any brown rot on
them. They are nice trees, and I propose to stick by Hansen as long as
he furnishes as good stuff as that. The locality makes a great
difference in this brown rot. Some of the smaller varieties of Prof.
Hansen the brown rot takes. As some one has said, it will take the plums
and the twigs after the plums are gone. It may be that the locality has
something to do with it.
Mr. Cook: A year ago I was talking with some gentlemen in the lobby of
this hotel here and among them was a gentleman from the Iowa society,
and I was trying to urge and tell them about the great value of some of
those hybrid plums. Mr. Reeves said to me: "Mr. Cook, if you were going
out into the woods to live and could only take one variety of plum with
you, what variety would you take?" If he said five or six different
varieties I would have made a different answer but he said only one
variety, and I said it would be the DeSoto, and his answer was, "So
would any other man that has right senses about him."
Mr. Anderson: It was my pleasure some time ago, I think it was in 1896,
to set out a few plum trees, DeSotos, and those trees grew and grew
until they bore plums, and I was very much pleased with them. It was
also my fortune about that time to sell plums that another man had
grown, such varieties as the Ocheeda, the Wolf and the Wyant. They were
such beautiful plums, and I obtained such beautiful prices for them, I
was very much enthused over growing plums. I purchased a number of trees
of that variety, but up to the present time I have never marketed a
bushel of plums from any tree of that kind. The DeSotos bore plums until
they died a natural death, which was last year.
Mr. Goudy: I have one DeSoto in my orchard which is seven years old,
never had a plum on it, never had a blossom on it. What shall I do?
(Laughter.)
Mr. Ludlow: Cut it out.
Spraying Plums for Brown Rot.
PROF. E. C. STAKMAN, MINN. EXP. STATION, UNIVERSITY FARM, ST. PAUL.
The brown rot of plum is without doubt one of the important limiting
factors in plum-growing in Minnesota. In seasons favorable to its
development, losses of from twenty to fifty per cent. of the crop in
individual orchards are not uncommon.
Experiments on the control of the disease have been carried on by the
sections of "Plant Pathology and Tree Insects and Spraying," of the
Minnesota Experiment Station, since 1911. No accurate results could be
obtained in 1912 and 1915 on account of crop failure in the orchards
selected for experiment. Results are available for the years 1911, 1913
and 1914.
Brown rot is caused by a fungus (_Sclerotinia cinerea (Bon.) Wor._).
Every plum grower knows the signs of the disease on the fruit. Blossoms,
leaves and twigs may also be affected. The diseased blossoms become
brown and dry, and fall from the tree; the diseased leaves become brown
and may die. Young twigs may also be killed.
Infection may occur at blossoming-time. The amount of blossom blight
depends very largely on weather conditions; in fairly warm, moist
weather there is usually more than in drier weather. The same is true of
the rot on the fruit; during periods of muggy weather it may spread with
amazing rapidity. The rot does not usually attack the fruit until it is
nearly or quite ripe, although green plums may rot, especially if they
have been injured. It is important to know that a large percentage of
rotted plums have been injured by curculio. Counts have shown that in
many cases as much as eighty-five per cent. of the rot followed such
injury.
Rotted plums should be destroyed for two reasons: (1) The spores
produced on them may live during the winter and cause infection in the
spring; (2) if the mummies fall to the ground, late in April or early in
May of the second spring the cup fungus stage may develop on them. This
cup fungus produces a crop of spores capable of causing infection.
Spraying experiments, the summarized results of which are given here,
show that the disease can be fairly well controlled even in badly
affected orchards.
Some of the experiments were carried on in the orchards at University
Farm and some in commercial orchards. There were from twelve to
forty-five trees in each plot, and the trees on which counts were to be
made were selected before the rot appeared. The percentages given below
refer to fruit rot and do not include blossom or twig blight. The object
was to determine the times for spraying and the most effective spray
mixtures. Details are for the most part omitted, and the results of
various experiments are averaged.
For convenience the times of spraying are designated as follows:
1. When buds are still dormant.
2. When blossom buds begin to show pink.
3. When fruit is size of a pea.
4. Two weeks after third spraying.
5. When fruit begins to color.
It did not pay to apply Spray 1. In the plots on which applications 1,
2, 3 and 4 were made there was an average of 6.3 per cent. of rot, while
in those from which Spray 1 was omitted there was an average of 6.7 per
cent. rot, a difference so slight as to be negligible. Neither did Spray
4 seem to pay, there being an average of 10.9 per cent. brown rot when
it was applied and 11.4 per cent. when it was omitted.
The schedule finally adopted was therefore the application of Sprays 2,
3, and 5. Spray 2 is necessary to prevent blossom blight, although it
has not always reduced the amount of rot on the fruit. Spray 5 is the
most important in reducing the amount of rot. In all of the experiments
during three years the average amount of rot in the sprayed plots which
did not receive Spray 5, was 10.7 per cent. On the plots which received
Spray 5, with or without the other sprays, the average amount of rot was
4.6 per cent., and the average on unsprayed plots was 34.8 per cent.
Excellent results were sometimes obtained by applying only Spray 5,
although this did not, of course, have any effect on blossom blight. In
1913 the amount of brown rot in one plot which received only Spray 5 was
3.3 per cent., while in the unsprayed plots it was 33.9 per cent. In
1914 the amount of rot was reduced from 38.8 per cent. in unsprayed
plots to 6.5 per cent. in the plots to which Spray 5 was applied.
Possibly Spray 3 could be omitted without seriously interfering with
results; success in controlling the rot with Spray 5 alone seems to
indicate this. It was hoped to settle the matter during the past summer,
but spring frosts spoiled the experiment.
For the present it seems advisable to recommend the application of
Sprays 2, 3, and 5. In the first two, two and a half pounds of arsenate
of lead paste, or one and one-fourth pounds of the powder should be
added to each fifty gallons of spray mixture in order to kill the
curculio. In the plots sprayed in this way in 1911 ninety-six per cent.
of the fruit was perfect, while in the unsprayed plots only 81.6 per
cent. was perfect, and in 1913 and 1914 the amount of brown rot was
reduced from 34.8 per cent. to 4.6 per cent. Several growers have
reported excellent results from these three applications, and there is
no reason why other growers should not duplicate them.
[Illustration: Brown rot of plums showing the small, grayish brown tufts
of spores. Can be controlled by destroying mummies and thorough
spraying.]
The efficiency of various fungicides was tried. Self-boiled
lime-sulphur, 8-8-50; commercial lime-sulphur, 1 to 40; 2-4-50 and
3-4-50 Bordeaux; iron sulphide made up with 1 to 40 commercial
lime-sulphur, and iron sulphide made up with 10-10-50 self-boiled
lime-sulphur were tried and all gave good results. Commercial
lime-sulphur, 1 to 40, has been used in commercial orchards with
excellent results, and it will probably be used more than the other
spray mixtures because it is so easy to use. Possibly weaker solutions
of lime-sulphur would do just as well as 1 to 40. This will be
determined, if possible, during the summer of 1916.
Good results were obtained only when a high pressure was maintained in
spraying. There was a clearly observable difference between plots
sprayed with low pressure and those sprayed with a pressure of more than
175 pounds. For large orchards a power sprayer is desirable; for small
orchards a barrel sprayer with an air-pressure tank attached is large
enough. Such an outfit can be bought for $35 or $40 and can do good
work.
The cost of spraying three times should not exceed fifteen cents a tree.
The results from spraying orchards which contain a great deal of brown
rot and have never before been sprayed will probably not be so good the
first year as in better kept orchards, but by spraying regularly each
season the disease can be well controlled.
Mr. Cashman: Please state what you mean by 3-4-50 there.
Mr. Stakman: 3-4-50 Bordeaux mixture means three pounds of bluestone or
copper sulphate, four pounds of lime, and fifty gallons of water. The
copper sulphate should be dissolved in twenty-five gallons of water, the
best way being to put it into a sack and hang the sack in the water. The
lime should be slaked and then enough water added to make twenty-five
gallons of milk of lime. Here is where the important part of making up
the spray comes in. Two people should work together and pour the milk of
lime and the bluestone solution together so that the streams mix in
pouring. It is very important that the mixing be thorough and the
mixture should be used fresh.
The President: Do you add any Paris green at any time or arsenate of
lead?
Mr. Stakman: Always add arsenate of lead two times, when the buds are
swelling and when the plums are the size of green peas.
The President: How much?
Mr. Stakman: I would rather leave that to Professor Ruggles. We used
from 2-1/2 to 3 pounds and Mr. Ruggles, I think, found 2-1/2 pounds was
enough.
The President: That is, 2-1/2 pounds to 50 gallons of water with the
other ingredients?
Mr. Stakman: Yes.
Mr. Dyer: I would like to ask if you have ever used arsenate of lead for
spraying plums?
Mr. Stakman: In the experiments which we conducted in co-operation with
Mr. Ruggles, of the Division of Entomology, we always used arsenate of
lead in the first two sprayings to kill the curculio.
Mr. Dyer: I had quite an experience, so I want to know what your
experience was.
Mr. Stakman: We never had any trouble with it.
Mr. Dyer: I have had an experience of thirty years, and I have never
seen or had on my place any brown rot, and I never was troubled with any
curculio, and I practically always used arsenate of lead.
Mr. Cashman: Isn't it a fact if you begin spraying your plum trees when
they are young and spray them early, at the right time, you have very
little trouble with the brown rot? And spray them every year?
Mr. Stakman: Yes, that is it. You might be disappointed the first year
if the orchard had never been sprayed, but by spraying year after year
you finally cut it down.
Mr. Cashman: You said a pressure of 200 pounds ought to be used?
Mr. Stakman: Yes, but it isn't necessary to get an expensive power
sprayer to keep up that pressure. There are sprayers on the market that
cost from $30 to $40 which have a pressure tank by which the pressure
can be maintained at from 175 to 250 pounds without any great amount of
trouble, that is, for a small orchard. If you have a big enough orchard
for a power sprayer, of course get it.
Mr. M'Clelland: This summer my plum trees, the leaves all turned brown
and came off. What is the reason?
Mr. Stakman: When did it happen?
Mr. M'Clelland: Along in August, I think; July or August.
Mr. Stakman: What kind of soil were they on?
Mr. M'Clelland: Clay.
Mr. Stakman: Did you spray?
Mr. M'Clelland: Yes, sir, I sprayed.
Mr. Stakman: What did you use?
Mr. M'Clelland: Lime-sulphur, I think.
Mr. Stakman: Did the whole leaf turn brown?
Mr. M'Clelland: Yes, sir, the whole leaf turned brown and came off.
Mr. Stakman: How strong did you use the lime-sulphur?
Mr. M'Clelland: Not very strong.
Mr. Stakman: If you use very strong lime-sulphur you sometimes get such
an effect on both plums and apples. Sometimes the leaves fall, and
almost immediately you get a new crop of leaves.
Mr. M'Clelland: This was in August.
Mr. Stakman: There was a perfect crop of new leaves?
Mr. M'Clelland: Yes, sir.
Mr. Stakman: My only suggestion would be that you used the lime-sulphur
too strong. That might account for it.
Mr. Sauter: I never sprayed until this year. I tried it this year and
with good results. I sprayed my apple trees at the same time, and I
sprayed the plums with the same thing I sprayed the apple trees with. I
had nice plums and nice apples; last year I had hardly any.
Mr. Stakman: What did you use?
Mr. Sauter: Lime-sulphur and some black leaf mixture. I used it on the
plum trees and the apple trees, and afterwards I used arsenate of lead.
Mr. Stakman: You didn't get any injury to the plum trees?
Mr. Sauter: No, sir, we had nice plums.
A Member: I have seventeen plum trees, and I have only sprayed with
kerosene emulsion and the second time put in some Paris green, and I
have never seen any of the brown rot, but there have been a good many of
the black aphids on the plum trees, on the end of the branches. I cut
them off and burned them. I didn't know whether that would be the end of
it or not.
Mr. Ruggles: Why don't you use "black leaf 40," 1/2 pint in 50 gallons
of the spray liquid. It can be used in combination with arsenate of lead
and lime-sulphur or arsenate of lead and Bordeaux mixture.
If you wash them with black leaf 40 it will kill all the aphids. I did
that myself this summer.
A Member: Please give us a little better explanation of what black leaf
40 is.
Mr. Ruggles: It is an extract of tobacco that is for sale by wholesale
drug companies and stores, or you can get it from Kentucky, from the
Tobacco Products Company, at Louisville, Ky., or Grasseli Chemical Co.,
St. Paul. I am not advertising, Mr. President, but they will send you a
small package for seventy-five cents, about half a pint. Of course, that
looks kind of expensive, but it will go a long way. I think possibly it
is the best thing we have to combat lice.
Mr. Stakman: Plum pocket is caused by a fungus which is supposed to
infect mostly when the flower buds are just beginning to swell,
especially in cold, wet weather. Plum pocket causes the fruit to
overgrow and destroys the pit, and big bladder or sack-like fruits are
produced instead of the normal fruit. The fungus that causes it gets
into the twig and is supposed to live there year after year. Therefore
pathologists usually recommend cutting out and burning affected branches
and even trees that bear pocketed plums several seasons in succession.
Our experiments with plum pocket have not extended far enough to enable
me to say anything definite about it.
Mr. Hall: With us in western Minnesota this year this plum pocket got
all the plums that the frost didn't get. If we were to cut off the twigs
we would have to chop off the trees.
Mr. Stakman: When a tree becomes so badly infected that practically all
of the branches produce pocketed plums year after year you can't expect
very much normal fruit. Sometimes you might get some, but usually not
very many.
Mr. Graves (Wisconsin): Do you use your black leaf 40 in conjunction
with your Bordeaux or lime-sulphur?
Mr. Ruggles: Yes, you can.
Mr. Graves: Doesn't it counteract the result?
Mr. Ruggles: No, it does not.
Mr. Stakman: I used this year lime-sulphur and black leaf 40 together.
Mr. Graves: You say you got the same results from black leaf 40 in that
mixture?
Mr. Stakman: It killed the plant lice; that is all I wanted.
Mr. Graves: We had some experiences that indicated that black leaf
counteracted the other results.
Mr. Stakman: Yes, sir, I think that has been the impression, but I think
there have been some experiments more recently to show that the black
leaf 40 can be used in conjunction with other sprays without
counteracting their results.
Mr. Richardson: Did you ever know the plum pocket to come unless we had
cold weather about the time of blossoming and lots of east wind?
Mr. Stakman: Yes, a little; I have seen it mostly when there was cold
weather, however, and as I said before it usually isn't so serious
unless there is cold, wet weather.
Mr. Richardson: I settled out in Martin County, Minnesota, in 1866, and
in all my experience I never saw plum pocket unless we had the right
kind of cold weather at the time of the blossoming. I had my plums all
killed and destroyed one year and never did anything for it, and when we
had the right kind of weather I never had any trouble.
Mr. Stakman: When you have cold, wet weather, as I mentioned before,
infection takes place much more rapidly than it does at other times.
There is some evidence to show that the fungus lives in the twigs and
that affected ones should be cut out.
Mr. Richardson: Yes, but these didn't bear any for four or five years,
and when we got the right kind of weather I got good plums.
Mr. Norwood: My experience is something like this man's. I have had my
plums killed off as many as five years with the plum pocket and then had
a good crop of plums. I sprayed with lime-sulphur.
Mr. Stakman: When did you spray?
Mr. Norwood: I spray just before the buds open.
Mr. Stakman: The flower or leaf?
Mr. Norwood: Flower, and then I spray when the plums are well started,
just before they begin to ripen.
Mr. Stakman: Were you spraying for the pocket or brown rot?
Mr. Norwood: I used lime-sulphur and arsenate of lime.
Mr. Stakman: Of course, spraying after buds open wouldn't do any good
for the plum pockets at all.
Mr. Norwood: I spray mainly for the brown rot, and I have pretty good
luck.
Mr. Cashman: Have you had any experience in using orchard heaters to
save plums in cold nights?
Mr. Stakman: I will ask Mr. Cady to answer that.
Mr. Cady: No, I haven't tried to use them.
Mr. Cashman: We tried it this year, and we saved our plum crop. We have
tried it the last four years and saved our plum crop each year. We also
sprayed each year and had a very good crop of plums when neighbors who
had not sprayed had very few, and I am satisfied if we use the proper
ingredients and spray properly at the right time, and occasionally use
an orchard heater when there is any danger of freezing, that we will
raise a good crop of most any plum that is hardy enough for this
climate.
A Member: What kind of heaters do you use?
Mr. Cashman: We use oil heaters. We use crude oil, the same oil we use
in our tractor engine.
A Member: Where do you buy your heaters?
Mr. Cashman: We have them made at the hardware store, of sheet iron,
with a cover. We put about two gallons of oil in this heater. There is a
small piece of waste that is used as a wick, which we light from a
torch. It will heat quite a large space sufficiently for two or three
hours and prevent frost.
Mrs. Glenzke: Do you put a canvas over the tree or leave it uncovered?
Mr. Cashman: We do not put anything over the tree.
Mr. Stakman: What does your oil cost?
Mr. Cashman: About eight or nine cents a gallon.
Prof. Hansen: Just a thought occurred to me that out west on the Pacific
coast where men have to get down to business in order to raise fruit
they have these horticultural commissioners that have absolute police
power to make orchard men clean up. They will come into your old orchard
and pull it up and burn it and add it to your taxes, charge it up to
you, if you don't clean up. The same sort of police power should prevail
here. If a man has an old plum orchard that is diseased through and
through, it won't do for him to tell his tale of woe year after year and
not do anything. A county agent will come along and clean it up for him.
After it is cleaned up it will be an easier proposition. If you are not
going to keep up with the times and spray, then the county agent ought
to have police power to burn the orchard. Either spray or go out of the
plum business.
* * * * *
TO MAKE CONCENTRATED APPLE CIDER ON A COMMERCIAL SCALE.--The
specialists of the fruit and vegetable utilization laboratory of the
department have completed arrangements for a commercial test of the
recently discovered method of concentrating apple cider by freezing and
centrifugal methods. As a result, a cider mill in the Hood River Valley,
Ore., will this fall undertake to manufacture and put on the retail
market 1,000 gallons of concentrated cider, which will represent 5,000
gallons of ordinary apple cider with only the water removed.
The new method, it is believed, makes possible the concentrating of
cider in such a way that it will keep better than raw cider, and also be
so reduced in bulk that it can be shipped profitably long distances from
the apple growing regions. The old attempts to concentrate cider by
boiling have been failures because heat destroys the delicate flavor of
cider. Under the new method nothing is taken from the cider but the
water, and the resultant product is a thick liquid which contains all
the apple-juice products and which can be restored to excellent sweet
cider by the simple addition of four parts of water. The shippers and
consumers, therefore, avoid paying freight on the water in ordinary
cider. In addition, the product, when properly barreled, because of its
higher amount of sugar, keeps better than raw cider, which quickly turns
to vinegar.
The process, as described by the department's specialists, consists of
freezing ordinary cider solid. The cider ice is then crushed and put
into centrifugal machines such as are used in making cane sugar. When
the cider ice is whirled rapidly the concentrated juice is thrown off
and collected. The water remains in the machine as ice.
At ordinary household refrigerator temperatures this syrup-like cider
will keep perfectly for a month or six weeks, and if kept at low
temperatures in cold storage will keep for prolonged periods. At
ordinary house temperatures it, of course, will keep a shorter time.
To make the concentrated syrup, the cider mill must add to its equipment
an ice-making machine and centrifugal machinery, so that the process is
not practicable on a small scale. The specialists are hopeful, however,
that the commercial test soon to be inaugurated in Oregon will show that
it will be possible for apple growers to concentrate their excess cider
and ship it profitably to the far South or to other non-producing
regions. The specialists also believe that it will enable apple
producers to prolong the market for cider.--U.S. Dept. of Agri., Oct.,
1914.
How Mr. Mansfield Grows Tomatoes.
MRS. JENNIE STAGER, SAUK RAPIDS.
Somewhere around 1870 Mr. Wm. Mansfield, of Johnsons Creek, Wis.,
commenced to apply what Gov. Hoard, of Wisconsin, told him was
"persevering intelligence," to the propagating and improving of the
tomato, and he soon found out that the tomato was capable of almost
unlimited improvement. He has made a specialty of the tree tomato, of
which he says he has demonstrated to the world that in the Mansfield
tree tomato he has produced one of the greatest wonders of the age. All
who have seen them, tasted or grown them, with even a small degree of
good sense, are loud in their praise for their good qualities: wonderful
growth of tree, beauty of fruit, smoothness, solidity, flavor,
earliness, etc.
In giving directions how to grow them he says you should remember that
if your brightest child is raised among Indians he is not likely to
become president. Neither will the tree tomato if thrown on a brush
pile, or just stuck in a poor, dry place and left to care for itself, be
ready to jump on your table, on the Fourth of July, or any other month,
a ripe, delicious, two-pound tomato.
He says first get your seed of some reliable person, who can warrant it
pure and all right. Then at the proper time, which in this climate would
be some time in March, get some rich old earth for boxes in your house,
hotbeds or greenhouse. Sow the seed, cover lightly, wet down every day
and keep warm, with all the sun possible. When up ten days transplant to
other boxes, six inches apart, and not less than four inches deep. Keep
wet and give all the light and sun you can, and by the time it is safe
to set them outside they should stand from twelve to twenty-four inches
in height, with bodies half an inch thick.
_To prepare the ground._--First select a place as near water as
possible, and also, if you can, let your rows run east and west. Throw
out dirt two spades deep, then put in three or four inches of night soil
if you can get it, if not use hen manure and wood ashes, equal parts, or
some other strong manure, in the bottom of trench. Then fill up the
trench with the best dirt you can get, mixed with well rotted stable
manure, as no fresh manure must come near the roots or bark to rot them.
Now set out your plants without disturbing the dirt about the roots. Set
eighteen inches apart in the row and have the dirt in the trenches a
little lower than at the sides. Place a strong stake at each plant or a
trellis and tie them to it as fast as set. Then if it does not rain use
hard, soft, cold or warm water and give plenty each day. As your plants
commence to grow, just above each leaf will start a shoot. Let only the
top of the plant, and only one or two of the best branches grow, so as
to have not over one or two of the best stems to run up. Now the buds
for blossoms show themselves on the tops of the vines, and a few inches
below. Just above each leaf, a shoot starts; nip off every one of these
just as soon as they appear. As the lower leaves get brown and old pick
them off. Train the fruit as it grows to the sun. Tie often and well.
Let no useless wood grow. Give all the sun possible and water, water and
then water. Then you can take the cake on tomatoes.
[Illustration: Wm. Mansfield and his big tomatoes, Casselton, N.D.]
Mr. Mansfield's record twenty-six years ago, at Johnsons Creek, Wis.,
was: Height of tomato tree, eleven feet. Weight of single tomato, two
pounds six ounces. He says, since he has moved to North Dakota, his
tomato has in no wise deteriorated.
Annual Report, 1915, Central Trial Station.
PROFS. LE ROY CADY AND R. WELLINGTON, UNIVERSITY FARM.
Since the coming of Prof. Wellington to the Station to take up the
pomological and vegetable divisions the work of this Station, has been
divided, Prof. Wellington taking the fruit and vegetable experimental
work, while Prof. Cady continues the work in ornamentals, and on that
basis the reports will be made this year.
_Ornamentals._--The campus of University Farm has been very much
enlarged this year by the building of the Gymnasium, and consequent
parking about it, and the grading of an athletic field. This will call
for considerable planting work next spring.
The season has been exceptionally good for the growth of all ornamental
stock. All came through last winter in good shape. A late frost killed
many of the early flowering plants, and this prevented the forming of
fruit on such plants as barberry and wahoo. About 400 seedling paeonies
flowered again this year. Some of these are promising. An excellent
block of aquilegia was flowered. A trial ground of some hundred or more
annuals was maintained and proved very interesting. It is hoped that
many more annual novelties may be tried out this year. The perennial
garden established last year was added to and furnished something of
interest the whole season. It will be the aim of the Division to have in
this garden all the annuals and perennials of value in this section.
Some new shrubs were added by purchase and through the Bureau of Plant
Industry. The hedges have proved an interesting exhibit again this year,
and it is planned to add a number of new ones to the group next season.
About seventy-five varieties of chrysanthemums were flowered this autumn
and were much enjoyed by our visitors.
_Fruit._--This year has been a very poor fruit year owing to the freeze
on May 18, when the thermometer dropped to 26 degrees Fahrenheit. At
that time a very promising crop of apples was frozen on the trees.
Currants and gooseberries were also frozen on the bushes, and the young
shoots were frozen on the grape vines. Later the grape vines sent out
secondary shoots which bore a small crop of late maturing fruit.
Regardless of the heavy freeze an apple was found here and there
throughout the orchard, although no one variety seemed to be
particularly favored. On one-year-old Compass and Dyehouse cherry trees
a few fruits were borne, and a similar amount of fruit was produced on
one-year-old Sapa and Skuya plums. The old plum seedling orchard, which
is located to the south of the college buildings and is partially
protected by a wooded hill to the north, gave about five per cent of a
crop. The one-year-old raspberries and blackberries bore a small crop,
and the new strawberry bed, containing over 150 varieties, yielded a
good crop. Records were made on the blossoming dates of practically all
the varieties grown at the Station, and complete descriptions were made
of all the strawberry flowers, fruits and plants.
[Illustration: Class in propagation at work at Minnesota State
Agricultural College.]
Plants were taken from the strawberry bed and used for setting out a new
bed, which is located on level and uniform ground. By another year
sufficient data should be at hand to report on the performance of the
varieties tested.
The aphids were very numerous and unfortunately caused the defoliation
of all the currants with the exception of the blacks. A new sidewalk
through the currant patch necessitated the transplanting of about
one-half of the varieties, and so the prospect for a good currant crop
next season is poor. The mildew attacked the Poorman gooseberry very
severely but did practically no damage to the native varieties, as the
Carrie and Houghton. Blight was a negligible factor, and what little
appeared was removed as soon as noted. This year's rest, especially as
it has been coupled with a good growing season, should be very favorable
for an abundant crop in 1916.
In summing up the varieties at the Trial Station, it is of interest to
note that the following number are under observation: 235 apple, 1
apricot, 15 cherry, 3 peach, 6 pear, 70 plum, 23 blackberry, 3 dewberry,
14 red currant, 3 black currant, 2 white currant, 13 gooseberry, 26
grape, 4 black raspberry, 22 red raspberry, 1 purple raspberry and 157
strawberry.
_Vegetables._--The vegetable work has been concentrated on the bean,
cucumber, lettuce, pea, onion, potato and tomato. The chief work with
the bean and pea has been to isolate desirable canning types from the
present varieties. Selection has also been carried on with the lettuce,
with the object of securing a head type which matures uniformly. Onion
bulbs of various types have self-fertilized, and desirable fixed strains
will be separated if possible. Incidentally, the inheritance of various
types and colors of the onion is under observation. In the tomato the
influence of crossing on yield and earliness has been studied. Increases
nearly as high as five tons have been obtained, and the prospects are
very bright for securing valuable combinations for gardeners who use
greenhouses and high-priced land. Results of this work will probably
soon be published in a station bulletin.
[Illustration: Chrysanthemums in flower in University Farm
greenhouses.]
A better type of greenhouse cucumber is being sought by combining the
European and White Spine varieties. From past experience the author
knows that a uniform type that is well adapted to market purposes can be
obtained, and the only question will be its productiveness.
Unfortunately hybridizing was not performed early enough in the season,
and disease prevented the making of crosses. This coming season the work
will be repeated.
The main work of the year has been on the potato, and the chief problem
has been on the determination of the cause of degeneracy. Incidentally,
many varieties have been tested, and the exchange of seed with the Grand
Rapids, Crookston and Duluth stations has been started. If possible, the
effect of varying climatic and soil conditions on the potato will be
noted.
A few vegetable varieties have been tested and among them the Reading
Giant, a rust-proof asparagus, has proved promising. Malcolm, the
earliest Canadian sweet corn, ripened very early and will be tested
further. Washington, a late sweet corn ripening between Crosby and
Evergreen, made an exceptionally good showing and may prove of much
value for market purposes. The Alacrity tomato was found to be similar
to the Earliana and superior in no way. Bonny Best and John Baer
tomatoes produced smooth, desirable fruit and are deserving of a wide
test.
The much advertised "seed tape" was given a trial, and it proved
satisfactory in most cases. For kitchen gardeners who are ignorant of
planting distances, methods of planting and varieties, and who can
afford to pay a higher price for their seed, the tape may prove of
value, that is, if a high grade of seed is maintained.
* * * * *
A CORRECTION.--In O. W. Moore's interesting article on
"Sexuality in Plants," which appeared in the November (1915) number of
The Horticulturist, two errors were present. The first is merely
typographical, as Kaelreuter's name, page 411, should be spelled
Kolreuter. The second, however, is misleading, as it states that the
process of fertilization is called "Mendel's Law." It is true that
Mendel's Law is based upon fertilization, but it concerns simply the
splitting up of certain characters into definite mathematical
proportions. For example, Mendel found that when he crossed a yellow and
green pea the first generation produced only yellow peas. These peas
when self-fertilized split up into practically three yellows to one
green. By self-fertilizing the progeny of the second generation it was
found that one-third of the yellows bred true for yellow, and two-thirds
of the yellows broke up into yellow and green, showing that they were in
a heterozygous condition, and that all the greens bred true for green.
At the present time this method of segregation has been proved to hold
for many easily differentiated characters in both the animal and plant
kingdom, but much more experimental work will have to be done before it
can be said to hold for all inheritable characters.--Prof. Richard
Wellington, University Farm.
Rose Culture.
MARTIN FRYDHOLM, ALBERT LEA, MINN.
(Annual Meeting, 1916, So. Minn. Hort. Society.)
Rose culture is one of the most fascinating occupations in the line of
horticulture. But when you come to talking or writing about it you
scarcely know where to begin or what to say, there passes before your
eye an exhibition of such an amazing fragrance and beauty of varying
colors. Even now as I am writing these lines I can see with my mind's
eye every rose in my garden, some in their full glory, filling the air
with the sweet fragrance; others just opening; others in bud; and so on
in an ever pleasing variety. I have taken special interest in roses for
some ten or twelve years and have grown a good many different varieties
of them with success, good, bad and indifferent. I have succeeded well
with some of the hybrid perpetual roses. At the present time I have in
my garden Paul Neyron, General Jacquiminot, Ulric Brunner, Black Prince,
Etoile De France, Frau Karl Droschky and Marshall P. Wilder, also others
of which I have lost the names. Of climbing roses I have Crimson
Rambler, Thousand Beauties, Prairie Queen and Dorothy Perkins. All the
above named are everbloomers, except the climbers, and all need careful
winter protection.
_How to grow them._--Get two year old No. 1 plants and prepare your soil
just like you would for your vegetable garden. If your soil is not
particularly rich, spade in a liberal quantity of well rotted manure and
mix well with soil. Set your plants and keep up clean cultivation all
summer and give them plenty of water, and you will have an abundance of
roses the first year. In the fall get some clean straw, bend your rose
bushes over, put a fence post across on top of them to hold them down
and then cover with straw to a depth of one foot. Or if you have a
number of them planted in one row, make a long box about two feet wide
and about twenty inches deep, fill about half full of straw, then place
along side of the row of plants, bend your plants down lengthwise the
row, then tip the box over them, put some straw around sides of box and
on the outside put some posts or boards on to hold it down, when you
will have the best protection possible. Right here I want to put in a
word of warning, and that is, if you do not like to do extra work don't
attempt to grow roses; in other words, if you are lazy they don't like
you well enough to stay with you, for it means work and lots of it.
We have, however, one class of roses which can be grown by every one who
wants them, the hybrid Rosa Rugosa roses. Of them we have such as
Blanche D. Caubet, pure white of large size, a perpetual bloomer; Sir
Thomas Lipton, also white, a little smaller in blossom but perfectly
double; Conrad Meyer, clear silvery pink, of large size, very double and
of choicest fragrance, a continuous bloomer (needs some winter
protection); New Century, rosy pink, shading to almost red in the
center, good size and double. One of the hardiest is Hansa, deep violet
red, very large, double and an exceedingly profuse and continuous
bloomer, absolutely hardy. These five varieties can be considered as
everybody's roses, because of the easiness and sureness with which they
can be grown, taking into consideration the elimination of winter
protection. Planting, preparation of ground and cultivation are the same
as for all other roses. Do not imagine for a minute that they will do
well in sod or grass.
[Illustration: Martin Frydholm in his rose garden, at Albert Lea.]
Another class of roses is the Baby Ramblers. For borders and bedding
roses these I think surpass all others on account of the easiness by
which they may be grown. And they are a perfect mass of blossoms from
June till freezing. They need winter protection, but that is not
difficult on account of the low growth and small size of plant.
Above all do not forget that all roses need rich soil and lots of water.
When your rose bushes are three years old you must begin to give some
attention to trimming. Cut out some of the oldest wood before you lay
them down in the fall, and if some of the shoots have grown very tall
cut back about half, although these rank canes may give you the best
roses the following season if you can protect them well enough so that
they do not winter-kill. In this photograph which is shown here is one
Ulric Brunner with one shoot extending two feet above my head and
covered all along with the most magnificent roses I have ever had in my
garden. The same thing I have done with the General Jacquiminot.
Asparagus by the Acre.
E. W. RECORD, MARKET GARDENER, BROOKLYN CENTER.
First I am careful about selecting seed of a good variety. My choice is
Palmetto, because it is hardy and the best seller on our market. In
starting a bed I sow my seed as early as possible in the spring in rows
about eighteen inches apart, and when the plants are well up I thin out
to about an inch, so the roots will not be so hard to separate when
ready to transplant. My experience has been that plants two years old
are more easily handled than those one or three, because the one year
plants are not matured enough, while the roots of the three year old
have become too matured, and when separated too many of the roots are
broken off.
In preparing the ground for asparagus I plow and then harrow it and mark
it off so the rows will be five feet apart. I plow a furrow from
fourteen to sixteen inches deep, throwing the dirt both ways. Then with
my cultivator I loosen up the bottom of the furrow. I place the plants
in the furrow about eighteen inches apart, being careful to spread the
roots evenly over the bottom of the furrow, putting a little dirt over
them to hold them in place. With my cultivator I keep filling in the
furrow, at the same time plowing out the middle to keep down the weeds.
In fertilizing a bed of asparagus my experience has been that the best
way is to plow a furrow between the rows, filling it with barnyard
manure, then covering this with earth. Spreading the manure broadcast
makes too many of the stalks grow crooked.
I never cut my asparagus for market until the third year, and then only
for a short time. By the fifth year the bed is strong enough to cut the
whole season. When the season is over I cultivate often enough to keep
down the weeds. I never cut the old stalks off until spring, because
after the first freeze the stalks are hollow, and this would allow the
frost to run down into the roots.
Annual Report, 1915, Vice-President, Second Congressional District.
JOHN BISBEE, MADELIA.
A summer remarkable in many respects has passed. Many of our people have
labored hard, and the rewards of that labor have been meager and
unsatisfactory. Horticulture with all the other labors on the land has
been rewarded like the other cultivators of the soil in our section of
the state. I sent out twenty-five of the circulars and twenty were
filled out and returned.
Apple raisers report, four a good crop, the balance poor or none.
Plums: One fair, others poor or none.
Cherries: One good, all others poor.
Grapes: One good, balance poor to none.
Blackberries: One good, balance poor to none.
Other fruits all poor.
Nursery stock: One place reports one car load planted, the balance a
few, all making good growth.
Strawberries: Five report good crop, balance few to poor.
Blight: Some reported but little efforts made to eradicate.
Fruit trees did not suffer much last winter (1914-5). All report plenty
of moisture in ground.
Varieties of apples doing best: Wealthy, Duchess, Longfield, Salome,
Spitzenberg, Northwestern Greening, Anisim, Malinda, Hibernal, Jonathan.
Spraying neglected very largely.
I am doing all of the top-working I can get done every spring.
Am setting largely the Salome. I find the tree hardy here; a moderate
bearer; apples fine and handsome; a good keeper; tree does not blight
and grows very thriftily. It grows on a great share of the stocks in
which I have placed it.
My next best apple is the Spitzenberg. I am not placing many Wealthy
scions, as I have about all I want of them.
I tried thinning the fruit on some of my heavy bearers last summer and
like it much. I think the best way to do it is to cut out the fruit
spurs, as that can be done in the winter.
Annual Report, 1915, Vice-President, Fifth Congressional District.
CHAS. H. RAMSDELL, MINNEAPOLIS.
The horticultural interests of the Fifth Congressional District (of
which Minneapolis is the largest part) comprise three lines of activity,
the raising of fruit, vegetables and flowers for home supply and profit,
ornamental horticulture for pleasure and the city marketing of the
produce of this and every other region, furnishing whatever is demanded
by a large metropolitan market. Therefore, I will report along these
lines.
[Illustration: Chas. H. Ramsdell.]
Judging from the reports of my correspondents throughout the country,
the "freeze" in May was responsible for a rather complete absence of
local fruit the past season. Sheltered orchards and those on the south
side of any lake bore a small crop. Of apples, the Wealthy and Malinda
are mentioned as bearing fairly well. Plums were entirely a failure,
cherries are not raised to any extent, grapes and small fruits were not
enough to supply the market as a whole. Raspberry and strawberry growing
seems to be on the decline, owing to the prevalence of insect pests
which do _not_ receive attention to keep them in check. The importance
of this is all the more apparent, because with the shorter distances of
this district being the rule, the danger from rapid spread is more
pronounced.
The growing conditions of the season have been of the best, and all
stock goes into the winter in excellent shape with a good amount of soil
moisture and a promise for better conditions next season.
Several market reports have been received which give valuable
information. Prices of fruit, vegetables and floral stock have been low
in almost all cases. The public demand has been rather below normal,
although it has been steady and fair in volume. There seems to be a good
deal of complaint about the care of the railroads, etc., with fruit and
perishable products, but, on the other hand, a good deal of local
produce is not put up in good shape. The uniformly good packing of
western fruit reveals the cause of its popularity on the local markets.
Certain kinds of fruit almost glutted the market this season, notably
Florida grape fruit, western box apples and peaches. I quote one market
statement as very pertinent:
If Minnesota apple growers would gather their apples before they are too
ripe, carefully grade and pack uniformly through the barrel, thus making
it possible for the wholesaler to ship out on orders, they would
undoubtedly realize more for their product than to market them
themselves in the usual manner in which apples are marketed.
Ornamental horticulture in my district is making rapid progress. Large
lots of nursery stock are yearly put in with excellent results. The
influence and interest of the "Garden Flower Society" and of these
horticultural meetings is nowhere more felt than in Hennepin County. The
gardens of the Minneapolis park board, in Loring Park, at Lyndale
Farmstead, and near the Parade and Armory, give the horticultural public
much valuable information. Even the wild flower garden in Glenwood Park
is yearly receiving an increasing number of visitors. The increasing use
of perennials is creating a new gardening enthusiasm. The perennial
exhibit at the summer meeting of the Horticultural Society was worthy of
much study. Careful use of hardy evergreens is increasing also, adding
value especially to our winter landscapes. This season has been very
favorable to gardening work and steady has been the progress made.
Greater care with insect pests, and better methods of preparing fruit
for market seem to be the two greatest needs of the horticulturists of
the Fifth District.
* * * * *
APPLE PRODUCTION AND PRICES.--According to the best authority
available, the apple crop in the United States for 1915 promises to be
about 22,500,000 barrels, says The Niagara County, New York, Farm Bureau
News. This will be the lightest crop in several years, the 1910 crop
being the next lightest, when about 24,000,000 barrels were produced. In
comparison, the 1914 crop was about 45,000,000 barrels and the 1913 crop
about 30,000,000 barrels.
The above refers to the commercial crop that is marketed in closed
packages, and should not be confounded with the recent estimate of the
United States Department of Agriculture, which is understood to refer to
the total production of apples, including those used for cider and
shipped to the market in bulk.
Annual Report, 1915, Vice-President, Sixth Congressional District.
E. W. MAYMAN, SAUK RAPIDS.
[Illustration: Residence of E. W. Mayman, at Sauk Rapids, Minn.]
This district comprises quite a large area, and a large amount of fruit
of various kinds is raised. Besides the reports received, I visited a
good many places where fruit is being raised and intended visiting more
except for unfavorable weather. From all sources the reports were that
all fruit trees, vines and other plants came through the previous winter
in good condition, and that all fruit trees budded and blossomed earlier
than usual. April being such a warm month caused this condition--and
indications were for a record-breaking crop. But this was all changed
after the severe freeze of May 17th, which destroyed nearly all blossoms
of apple and plum and what promise there was of cherry and grape. The
frost again on June the 8th did great damage to raspberries and
strawberries, currants and gooseberries. From all reports received and
from my own observation at my place I can sum up briefly as follows:
Apples not more than five per cent. of crop; crab apples, no crop;
plums, from ten to fifteen per cent. of a crop; cherries, very few
planted except the Compass and crop very light; grapes, not very
extensively raised, Collegeville having the largest collection so far as
I know, and at that place while the new growth had been frozen off still
a second growth of new wood was formed and gave a light crop of fruit.
Blackberries: No crop reported.
Raspberries: There is in this immediate vicinity upwards of twenty acres
or more planted of several varieties, but the crop was very light, and
from other places the reports received were the same.
Strawberries: There is also quite a large acreage planted in this
vicinity, but the crop the past season was very poor, except for the
everbearing variety planted for experimental purposes. This variety did
well and continued to fruit to November 1st.
Currants and gooseberries: Reports gave no crop to speak of, and at my
place and in this vicinity while there is quite a large planting there
was no fruit. This, of course, was owing to the frost as before stated.
Very little nursery stock has been planted except in small quantities
here and there, yet there is great interest taken in fruit raising.
In regard to blight, none to speak of according to reports, and
everything indicates a good healthy growth.
As to spraying there seems to be little done along that line, although
some orchards have been sprayed.
All trees and shrubs and perennial plants planted the past season, as
well as those previously planted, made an exceptionally good growth,
owing, I think, to the cool, moist spring and continued cool summer.
And, all wood maturing early, everything, I think, has gone into winter
quarters in very good condition, and other things being favorable we may
expect a good crop of everything next season.
* * * * *
The following poisoned wash has proved highly satisfactory in the West
and promises to be one of the most popular methods of protecting trees
from rabbits:
_Poisoned Tree Wash._--Dissolve one ounce of strychnine sulphate in
three quarts of boiling water and add one-half pint of laundry starch,
previously dissolved in one pint of cold water. Boil this mixture until
it becomes a clear paste. Add one ounce of glycerin and stir thoroughly.
When sufficiently cool, apply to the trunks of trees with a paint brush.
Rabbits that gnaw the bark will be killed before the tree is injured.
Annual Report, 1915, Vice-President, Ninth Congressional District.
MRS. H. E. WELD, MOORHEAD.
The fruit crop in general throughout this district was not very good.
The spring was late and cold with a heavy frost in June. Where the fruit
trees were protected by a natural windbreak, we find the best
conditions. Wilkin, Becker, Ottertail counties' reports indicate that
the apple crop was small, but the fruit was of good quality.
[Illustration: Residence of Louie Wentzel, Crookston, life member and
vice-president in 1914]
The varieties that are grown in this district in order of their
importance and hardiness are the following: Hibernal, Duchess, Okabena,
Patten's Greening and Wealthy. The hardier varieties of crabs are
growing here. The Transcendent is the most popular crab. The Hyslop,
Florence and Whitney are also grown.
But very little blight is reported in this district.
In localities where the trees have the protection of a windbreak there
was a small crop of plums. The DeSoto, Forest Garden and Hansen hybrids
are giving very good results. Even the wild plums were few, as the
blossoms were hurt by frost.
Where there was windbreak protection the Compass cherry tree looks
healthy and has given a fair crop.
Grapes have not been very generally planted. The Beta is the hardiest
variety. The Concord does well where properly planted and cared for.
Raspberry bushes made a good growth and look healthy; although damaged
by frost there was a fair crop.
Strawberries yielded fairly well where they were given attention. The
Senator Dunlap, Warfield and everbearing plants should be more generally
grown.
Gooseberries and currants were just fair in some localities, in others
the late frost destroyed all prospects of small fruits. The Houghton and
Downing gooseberries, Red Dutch and White Grape currants are some of the
varieties planted.
In Ottertail, Wilkin and Beltrami counties a good deal of nursery stock
has been planted and with very good success.
Very little has been done in the way of spraying orchards, as trees are
young.
All fruits are going into winter in good condition, with fair amount of
moisture in the ground and trees full of fruit buds.
The hardy ornamental shrubs, honeysuckle, lilac, mock-orange and spirea
Van Houttii can be grown here. Hardy perennial flowers that do well are
peony, phlox, golden glow and bleeding heart. This northern section of
the state is the land for the hardy perennials. Nowhere else do we get
such beautiful colorings and bloom.
Annual Report, 1915, Madison Trial Station.
M. SOHOLT, SUPT.
This season has been very good. We have had plenty of rain, so that all
nursery stock set out this last spring has made a good growth.
The first part of May a hard frost did quite a good deal of damage to
small stock just planted or lined out in the nursery. This frost also
damaged the blossoms on the fruit trees. The plum trees happened to be
in full bloom when this frost came, so that froze them entirely, and so
we did not get any plums to speak of. We also had a light crop of
apples, especially of the early varieties. The Northwestern and Patten's
Greening bore a good crop.
The grapes also froze. I expected to get some fruit off those grape
seedlings I received from the State Fruit-Breeding Farm three years ago,
but they went with the rest of it.
The plum trees I received this and two years ago are all doing well.
They did not freeze back any when we had that hard frost; so far they
seem to be hardy for this location.
Had a medium crop of raspberries, also a light crop of currants and
gooseberries. We had a good crop of strawberries. Seedling strawberry
No. 3 is doing very well. Everbearing strawberries are doing nicely. We
had a nice fall and plenty of rain, so that trees and shrubbery went
into winter quarters in good condition.
Growing Beans and Sweet Corn.
P. B. MARIEN, ST. PAUL.
Since it is one thing to grow beans and sweet corn and another to make
money on them, I think from a market gardener's point of view my heading
should have been "growing beans and sweet corn at a profit."
I will talk of beans first, because while the two are planted at about
the same time, beans make their appearance on the market long before
sweet corn.
Beans have a nitrogen gathering power and are therefore a soil-improving
crop. They are to the gardener what clover is to the farmer. For early
beans we have found that sandy soil well fertilized is by far the best.
If possible it should be sloping toward the south, although we have had
good success on level land well drained. One should have the best seed
possible, and if you get hold of a good strain of seed that produces
nice, velvety beans earlier than your neighbor, save as much of that
seed as you can. Of course now that the price of seed is $10.00 to
$14.00 a bushel one cannot be too particular.
[Illustration: P. B. Marien, St. Paul.]
Too much stress cannot be laid on the fact that to make money on beans
one must have them on the market within a week after the first ones make
their appearance. To do this one must plant them at the right time. The
practical gardener knows that as he sits near the stove with the ground
still frozen and a cold March wind blowing he cannot say "I will plant
my beans on April 15 or on April 20." It is impossible to set a date for
planting. After the ground has been plowed and well tilled he must wait
until it is well warmed. Sometimes it pays to take a chance, but we
always wait until the buds appear on the white oak trees. However there
is nothing infallible about this rule, but it is the one we generally
follow.
As to kinds we have two wax beans which we have planted for many years:
the Davis, which does well in wet weather, and the Wardwell Kidney,
which does well in dry weather. Every variety of green beans we have
ever grown has done well.
Rows three feet apart, with the hills about six inches apart, three or
four seed in a hill, might take up too much room on a small scale, but
where one uses horses to cultivate, I think it is about right.
Beans should be cultivated at least two or three times a week, and they
should be hoed three times during the season. Never cultivate your beans
while the dew is on, as it has a tendency to rust them.
While St. Paul has not offered a very good market for medium and late
string beans in the last few years, it is a good plan to have a patch
come in about every ten days. Because you happen to get from $2.50 to
$3.50 a bushel for your first beans this year, do not resolve to put the
whole farm into beans next year, for they might come three or four days
later than your neighbor's, and your profits might be like ours were one
day last summer. I came to market with forty-eight bushels of beans.
They cost twenty cents for picking. I sold thirty-two bushels at thirty
cents and offered the remaining sixteen bushels at twenty cents, but
found no sale for them. I brought them back home and to my surprise
found two extra bushels, making eighteen instead of sixteen bushels. I
concluded that someone had despaired of selling them and perhaps had
poor success in trying to give them away and so forced them on me.
However we consider we did well on our beans, as the first two pickings
brought from $2.00 to $3.50 per bushel.
Now a few words about sweet corn. Along about the 6th to the 12th of
July the truck gardener should load his first sweet corn. Sweet corn is
of American origin, having been developed from field corn, or maize. No
large vegetable is so generally grown throughout the country, the
markets of the cities taking large quantities, and immense areas being
grown for canning purposes.
Seed that fails entirely is not often found, but when one has a good
strain that produces early corn it is best to save some.
We generally have sweet corn to sell every day from about the middle of
July until the first frost. To do this we plant every ten days from
about the 20th of April to the 20th of June. Our early variety is the
Peep-O'Day, which is planted about the same time as the early beans. We
also plant the Golden Bantam at this time. This is followed by Red Cob
Cory, Pocahontas and some more Bantam. Then about May 15th to 20th we
plant early and late Evergreen, Bantam and Country Gentleman.
[Illustration: A load of vegetables at Marien's ready for market.]
Soil well adapted to common field corn will produce good sweet corn,
thriving best on well fertilized land. Sandy soil is best for the early
varieties.
Sweet corn is often grown in drills, but we prefer the hills three feet
apart, as it is easier to get an even stand, and cultivating both ways
will push the crop. It should be cultivated shallow and never deep
enough to hurt the roots. It is well to hoe it once.
Sweet corn is one of the few vegetables which is quite free from serious
injury from either insects or diseases.
Sweet corn may be divided into three classes: early, medium and late. It
is very important that the various kinds come in as early as possible,
as a few days make a lot of difference in price.
So you see that to make a profit on beans and sweet corn, four things
are needed: good seed, planting at the right time, in the right kind of
soil, and plenty of elbow grease--or hard work.
A member: How far apart do you plant your beans in the row?
Mr. Marien: The rows three feet apart and the hills six inches, putting
three or four seeds in a hill.
A Member: Don't you recommend testing your seeds before you plant them?
Mr. Marien: Hardly the bean seeds. I don't remember of ever having found
any poor bean seeds.
A Member: I mean seeds generally, corn, etc.?
Mr. Marien: Yes, sir, we do; we always test our seed.
Mr. Goudy: What is your method of harvesting your beans?
Mr. Marien: Well, we generally employ pickers, boys and girls, and we
pay them about twenty-five cents a bushel when they are above a dollar
and a quarter, and then we keep going down; as the price goes down we go
down too; but we have paid as much as thirty cents when the price of
beans was high and it is important to get many on the market the next
day.
[Illustration: Harvesting the hay crop at Marien's.]
Mr. Anderson: What are your gross receipts per acre for beans?
Mr. Marien: That is a hard question to answer, as sometimes it is very
poor for the medium and late beans, and sometimes there aren't any
receipts at all. (Laughter.) But the early beans sometimes go as high as
$250.00 an acre.
Mr. Anderson: How late can you plant them and be sure of a crop?
Mr. Marien: We have planted them as late as the 15th of June.
A Member: You mentioned Davis as your first variety. What is the second
one?
Mr. Marien: The Wardwell Kidney. We always plant the two varieties at
the same time because if we strike a wet season then the Davis does
well, and the Wardwell won't do as well in wet weather but will do
better in dry weather.
Mrs. Glenzke: Will you tell me the color of your beans? Are they golden
wax?
Mr. Marien: Yes, some golden wax and some green string beans. We haven't
as good a market for the green ones.
Mrs. Glenzke: Have they a string on the back?
Mr. Marien: Some have and some have not. There is the Bountiful, or the
Thousand to One; that is a small green string bean that hasn't any
string. But they are very hard to pick; so we don't raise many of them.
Mrs. Glenzke: Have you ever tried Golden Pod?
Mr. Marien: I think that is a wax bean?
Mrs. Glenzke: Yes.
Mr. Marien: Oh, we don't like them, at least not on the St. Paul market,
because they are hard to pick. I don't know how it is in the Minneapolis
market.
A Member: What is the best of the green kind?
Mr. Marien: We find that the Bountiful is a very good bean; and then
there is also the Red Valentine.
A Member: Did you ever grow any Crusset Wax?
Mr. Marien: No, sir, I have not. Of course, there are some kinds that
are just the same, but they go under different names in different
places. Different catalogs will catalog the same seeds in a different
way.
* * * * *
BEWARE BLIGHT CURES.--Almost every year orchardists are
persuaded to try some new, so-called "blight cure" or preventative, only
to find later that they have wasted time and money in the experiment.
Government regulations regarding fake remedies of this character are
more strict than formerly, but there are still some agents trying to
dupe the public into buying their wares.
Blight, which is often referred to as apple blight, fire blight, or pear
blight, is caused by bacteria which live in the sap of the tree, and the
principle followed by the blight-doctor is to introduce something into
the sap which will prevent the working of the bacteria. The remedies are
applied in various ways. Sometimes the trunk is painted with a mixture
of some kind, or holes are bored into the trunk and these filled with a
powder. The orchardist is sometimes furnished with a box of nails as the
first "course" and instructed to drive these into the roots of the
trees.
It is evident that anything introduced into the sap that is strong
enough to kill the bacteria living there will likewise damage the cell
tissue of the tree, and result in more harm than benefit. One powder
that has been brought to the attention of the Experiment Station, sells
for $3.00 per pound, and is administered in teaspoonful "doses." Such a
preparation as this is probably harmless, but is a waste of time and
money. It would have no effect on the tree or the blight.
Some of the agents not only claim that their remedies will cure blight,
but, due to ignorance or other causes, they also claim that trees
treated will be immune from attacks of certain insects.
Orchardists may rest assured that up to the present time, no real
preventative or cure has been found for blight, and that the only way it
can be controlled is by cutting it out.--Colorado Agricultural College.
IN MEMORIAM--MRS. E. CROSS.
Mrs. Erasmus Cross, of Sauk Rapids, and a member of the Minnesota State
Horticultural Society since 1888 (27 years), passed away at that place
on Tuesday, December 28th. On December 16th Mrs. Cross sustained a
painful injury by falling on the floor and breaking her hip. Owing to
her advanced age, eighty-two years, the limb could not be set without
the use of chloroform, which could not be given on account of weakness
of the heart. Death finally released her from her suffering.
[Illustration: The late Mrs. E. Cross, daughter and grandaughters.]
Mrs. Jane Cross was always very enthusiastic about the Horticultural
Society and the good it was doing, not only for this but other states.
The ills of her age had prevented her from attending the meetings these
late years, though she often did so in earlier years, but she always
sent her fee through the writer, and eagerly awaited her return from the
meeting to hear of its stimulating success. Mr. Cross died about six
years ago. Two sons, James, of St. Paul, and Robert, of Sauk Rapids, and
two daughters, Mrs. Annie Nicholson, of Hamline, and Mrs. Emma
Sovereign, of Sauk Rapids, mourn her loss. Our society has lost a most
loyal friend.--Mrs. Jennie Stager, Sauk Rapids.
GARDEN HELPS
Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society
Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So.
Minneapolis.
Notes from Prof. Alway's interesting and instructive talk on
"Maintaining the fertility of our gardens."
Requisites for proper plant growth are warmth, ventilation, root room,
the absence of harmful alkalies or animals that destroy the beneficial
bacteria in the soil, water and plant food.
By far the most important requisite for growth is water. More plants and
crops fail because of the lack of a proper amount of it than from any
other cause.
Plenty of fresh air is needed by the plants, as they derive a portion of
their food from it.
They adapt themselves largely to conditions as to root-room, a plant
thriving in a pot, but spreading to much greater root space when grown
in the open with plenty of room. The more restricted the root space, the
more food and water it will require.
The fourth requisite for growth does not concern us as there are no
alkali lands in the counties near the Twin Cities, and the harmful
minute animals that destroy the beneficial bacteria in the soil are as a
rule found only in greenhouses.
The best fertilizer for the garden is the thorough use of the hose.
Each year stable manures become harder to obtain, but the fertility of
the garden can be maintained by the use of commercial fertilizers, which
are more concentrated foods and are much easier to work with.
The perfect plant food consists of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash. We
can obtain these in separate form and use as we need them.
Nitrogen comes in the form of a salt, called nitrate of soda, and in
dried blood. The nitrate of soda is very soluble in water and is taken
up at once by the plant. It can be scattered upon the ground near but
not touching the plant, as in the latter case it would burn it. It can
also be dissolved in water--a tablespoonful to a pail--and the ground,
but not the plant, watered. Dried blood is slower in action and requires
warmth, so should not be used early in the season. Nitrogen promotes
quick and luxuriant growth of leaves and stems and is good to use when a
green growth of any kind is wished.
In bone meal we find the phosphorus necessary to aid in the development
of fine and many flowers, to expand root growth and to hasten maturity.
It works slowly, so can be applied to the ground about a plant early in
the season, and will be available in the ground the following year if
enough is used. Equal parts of nitrate and bone meal can be used at the
rate of one to two pounds to every one hundred square feet.
Potash is almost off the market, as a result of the war, the main supply
being imported from Germany. It can be obtained from hardwood ashes, and
every bit of these should be saved for the garden and stored in a dry
place where they will not become leached out by the action of water.
_April Spraying._--Snowball bushes and others that have been troubled
with aphides, or plant lice, the previous year should receive a thorough
spraying of Black Leaf No. 40 (an extract of forty per cent. nicotine)
before the leaf buds expand. For this early spraying, two tablespoonsful
of the extract can be used to every gallon of water. It will stick to
the branches better if some soap is dissolved in it. This spray will
kill most of the eggs of these pests, which will be found near the leaf
buds. When the leaves open another spraying should be given to kill all
those that escaped the first treatment. For spraying after the leaves
open use one tablespoonful to each gallon of water.
* * * * *
Meeting of the Minnesota Garden Flower Society, April 27th, St. Paul,
Wilder Auditorium, Fifth and Washington Streets, 2:30 p.m.
Native Plants in the Garden
Shall We Collect or Grow Our Native Plants?
Roadside Planting.
BEE-KEEPER'S COLUMN.
Conducted by FRANCIS JAGER, Professor of Apiculture, University
Farm, St. Paul.
Bees are kept both for profit and for pleasure. The old fashioned
beekeeper with his hybrid bees, kept in immovable hives, logs or boxes,
did not derive much profit from his bees. He kept them mostly for
pastime. During the last fifteen years men with new methods of
management and modern equipment have been rapidly superseding the
picturesque old beekeepers. Modern beekeeping courses are now taught in
connection with our institutions of learning, and young men full of
energy and ambition are beginning to realize that beekeeping is offering
one of the few opportunities to make a comfortable living with a
comparatively small expense. Older beekeepers, both on the farm and
professional men, also are beginning to study beekeeping. They attend
short courses, subscribe to scientific bee papers and study bee
literature. With increased study and knowledge the whole status of the
beekeeping industry is just now undergoing a rapid change. Professional
beekeepers, men who devote their whole time to beekeeping, are
increasing, and more amateurs are turning to professional beekeeping
every year. Organizations of beekeepers now exist in nearly every state.
Their object is to spread knowledge among their members and to secure
better prices for their product by co-operative marketing. Contrary to
fears of more conservative beekeepers the demand for a first class
article of honey is increasing more rapidly than the supply. A national
organization of beekeepers and bee societies is taking up just now
national problems in connection with their industry and has succeeded in
making the government interested in this "infant industry." An
appropriation of $200,000 has just been allowed by the agricultural
committee of the Congress to develop beekeeping in localities where help
is needed. The state of Minnesota allows an annual appropriation for
beekeeping interests of $10,000, divided among the following branches:
Bee inspection department, which takes charge of bee diseases, $2,000;
state fair exhibits for premiums and maintenance of a bee and honey
building in connection with our State Fair, $1,500. The Division of Bee
Culture at the University Farm, which has charge of teaching,
demonstration, extension work, research, queen rearing, correspondence,
statistics and model apiaries, $6,500. Minnesota beekeepers should be
grateful to those men who have helped them to raise their industry from
a mere nothing, until we have become the acknowledged leaders in
beekeeping among all the states of the Union. They, however, are rapidly
following, nearly all states now have efficient bee inspection laws, and
twelve universities have followed our lead and have included beekeeping
in their curriculum.
But we must not be satisfied with what we have accomplished. Out of
$14,000,000 worth of honey which this state produces (by figuring) only
$1,000,000 worth are gathered every year, and beekeeping in the state
must grow to fourteen times its present proportions before it will be
anywhere near its possibilities.
ORCHARD NOTES.
Conducted monthly by R. S. MACKINTOSH, Horticulturist, Extension
Division, University Farm, St. Paul.
Minnesota orchardists are preparing for a full crop of apples this year.
From the experiences of last year with apple scab and codling moth, more
thorough spraying is to be done. Senator Dunlap stated an experience he
had in spraying that should be carefully considered by all apple men.
Nine rows of trees were sprayed on Monday or Tuesday. Owing to bad
weather the other rows could not be sprayed until Friday or Saturday.
What was the result? He had 175 barrels of No. 1 fruit from first part
and only seventeen barrels of No. 2 in rows sprayed later. Some are
planning their orchard work for the season along the following lines:
_First: Pruning._ To be done during the mild weather in March and April.
Thin out all dead wood, interlocking branches, water-sprouts and shorten
others. Pruning is to get the tree into better form to sustain a large
load of fruit, to open the center to permit sunlight to get in to color
fruit, and to permit of better spraying. There are too many trees in
Minnesota that have never been touched by knife or saw. Such trees need
attention, but the pruning should not be too severe at any one time.
Begin this year to do a little pruning; next year do more; the year
after a little more; and after that very little attention will be needed
to keep the tree in good condition.
While pruning look out for rabbit and mouse injury. If good trees have
been injured do some bridge grafting as soon as you can. This means
connecting the healthy bark above the wound with the healthy bark below.
Small twigs cut from the same tree, that are long enough to span the
wound, are cut wedge shaped on both ends, and these ends put under the
healthy bark. If possible cover the wounded area with earth. If too high
up tie the scions in place and cover all cut surfaces with grafting wax
and cloth. Several scions should be put in if the tree is large.
_Second: Spraying._ Three sprayings are needed on every bearing apple
tree in Minnesota.
First spray: When the center of buds show pink. Don't wait too long.
Second spray: When the petals have fallen.
Third spray: Ten to fifteen days after the second.
Use lime-sulphur and arsenate of lead each time. It is important to do
this at the right time, in the right way, and with the right materials.
Right is the word and not left-undone. Further particulars will be found
on the page devoted to spraying topics.
_Third: Cultivation._ Follow the plan that is best suited to location.
This may mean sod, part sod and cultivation, cultivation and mulch,
mulch only, or cultivation and cover crop. Doubtless the last is the
best in most instances.
_Fourth: Thinning._ The thinning of apples in Minnesota has not been
received with as much consideration as its importance demands. More
attention will be given to this topic in subsequent issues.
HOME GARDEN.
What about the farm and home garden for 1916? Is the garden to receive
the undivided attention of one or more members of each family, so that
all members and guests may share its fruits? Let's make the home garden
the best spot on every Minnesota farm in 1916. A conservative estimate
of the actual value of the products from a half-acre garden is fifty
dollars. In Minnesota there are over 150,000 farms. This would mean a
total value of over $7,000,000. This does not include the value of the
products of the village and city gardens. Careful estimates made in this
state show that it costs about fifteen dollars for man and horse labor
to take care of a garden of about three-fourths of an acre. Now for a
BIG GARDEN MOVEMENT this year--for all the year. Not a big beginning
kept up until the little weeds become big weeds. Is anyone going to
allow weeds to outdo him?
NOTES ON PLANT PESTS.
Prepared by Section of Insect Pests, A. G. RUGGLES, and by
Section of Plant Diseases, E. C. STAKMAN, University Farm.
Buy spray materials as soon as possible. The orchardist will probably
notice very little difference in the price of his spraying materials,
like arsenate of lead and lime-sulphur, as compared with last year; but
those who still think that Paris green is the only good stomach
insecticide, will be astounded by this year's price. At the present
time, in one pound lots, the retailer cannot sell Paris green for less
than 50c per pound--over twice what it was last year. In large
quantities, it is doubtful if it can be purchased for less than 45c per
pound. Fortunately arsenate of lead, a better stomach insecticide than
Paris green, has not advanced materially in price, the powdered form
being obtained for about 25c per pound. One and one-half pounds of this
powder is used in fifty gallons of spray mixture. In our experiments, we
have found arsenate of lead superior to Paris green as a remedy for
potato bugs and all orchard insects. It is not necessary, therefore, to
allow any injurious biting insect to live simply because Paris green is
high in price. Arsenate of lead, if properly applied at the right time,
will keep any of these insects in check.
A dormant wash does little good in controlling scab. Hence, on account
of the high price of spraying compounds, do not spray when unnecessary.
Many diseases of nursery stock are controlled by spraying. Begin
spraying as soon as leaf buds unfold, with lime-sulphur 1-40 or Bordeaux
mixture 4-4-50.
Copper-sulphate has also advanced 15c or 16c per pound. Lime-sulphur has
not advanced materially; therefore, plan to use lime-sulphur or some of
the made-up (paste) Bordeaux instead of Bordeaux mixture, whenever
possible. _Potatoes can not be sprayed with lime-sulphur._
The aphis problem is usually a very serious one, because they are such
persistent little breeders. The trees or shrubs most affected are roses,
snowball, currant, apple, plum and elm. The eggs of the plant lice pass
the winter on the bark or buds of these plants and hatch as the buds
begin to swell. Spray with the lime-sulphur (1-9) at this time. As soon
as the leaves appear, spray with nicotine-sulphate as per directions on
the container.
If plum pocket was bad last year, the trees should be thoroughly pruned.
Then spray with copper-sulphate, one pound to nine gallons of water, or
lime-sulphur, one gallon with nine gallons of water, before the buds
open. Follow with one to forty lime-sulphur or other spray as for brown
rot. Control methods for plum pocket are not well worked out, so these
methods cannot be depended upon entirely.
Be sure and look over the apple trees carefully; cut out and burn all
cankers. Black rot has been increasing in the state, and since a great
deal of early infection may come from cankered limbs, it is important
that cutting out and burning be resorted to.
Last year the spring canker worm was just as active in the state as the
fall canker worm; therefore, just as soon as possible, trees affected
last year should be banded with the tree tanglefoot. The moths come out
of the soil the first two weeks in April and at that time attempt to
crawl up the trunks of the trees to lay their eggs on the limbs.
When raspberries are uncovered, be sure to cut out and burn all dead
canes missed last fall. The gray bark disease and anthracnose, also
snowy tree cricket and red-necked cane borer, are controlled in this
way.
Plan to keep the young canes covered with a protective spray of
resin-Bordeaux mixture. Try it on at least part of the patch. The
benefit will not be apparent for a year.
Spray currants and gooseberries as soon as leaf buds begin to unfold,
with either Bordeaux mixture 4-4-50 or lime-sulphur 1-40, to prevent
powdery mildew and leaf spots.
For further information write to the section concerned. Inquiries will
receive prompt attention.
SECRETARY'S CORNER
ANNUAL MEETING OF AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF
NURSERYMEN.--Information has reached this office to the effect that
this national association will hold its annual meeting in Milwaukee June
28th to 30th. This is so near by that it ought to bring a goodly number
of Minnesota nurserymen in attendance. For particulars in regard to the
matter address John Hill, 204 Granite Bldg., Rochester, N.Y.
PASSING OF HANS KNUDSON.--Mr. Knudson, late of Springfield,
Minn., was the originator of the Compass cherry, which has been
generally planted throughout the Northwest these recent years. He grew
this variety from a seed as a result of a handmade cross between the
Miner plum and the sand cherry. Mr. Knudson had other seedlings of
similar origin which we thought might be of value, but nothing has been
since heard from them. News of his passing early in January has just
come to this office.
THE MCINTOSH RED.--I think the McIntosh is quite hardy as a
top-worked tree; there are two in my old orchard set in 1894, and they
have shown no signs of injury. They were grafted on crab whips, but they
were planted on a knoll, that while clay was within twelve to fifteen
inches of a deep bed of sand. They have been shy bearers, but I think on
a clay subsoil, such as I now have, they might prove good bearers. I
would not be afraid to risk them as to hardiness.--F. W. Kimball,
Waltham, Minn.
REPORTS FOR MINNEAPOLIS MEMBERS.--Every member of the society
is entitled to a copy of the annual report if desired. As there are not
as many copies printed, however, as there are members, if every one
asked for a copy we should be in trouble at once. Copies are mailed as
promptly as possible after receiving membership fee to all members
except those living in Minneapolis and those who come in as members of
some auxiliary society. Minneapolis members are requested to call at the
society office and secure the copy to which they are entitled, which
will then get into their hands in a good deal better shape than though
it passed through the postoffice. Members of auxiliary societies are
entitled to a copy of the report, but only upon the prepayment of
postage, which would be seven cents to points within 150 miles of
Minneapolis and ten cents outside that limit.
SCIONS FOR TOP-WORKING.--Stark Bros. Nurseries, of Louisiana,
Mo., have sent to us for use in testing on top-worked trees a quantity
of scions of the following varieties: King David, Jonathan, Delicious,
Stayman Winesap, York Imperial and Liveland Raspberry. These scions are
to be used primarily to fill orders for top-working from members who
have selected them as one of the plant premiums, No. 8. There will,
however, be a considerable surplus, we believe, and as far as they hold
out we shall be glad to send them out to members of the society who have
trees for top-working, and know how to graft properly, upon receipt of
postage stamps to the amount of postage and packing, which would be
approximately ten cents. We are not sure that we can supply all who may
ask for them, but to a limited extent we can do so. I would suggest
promptness in making application for these scions. Address Secy.
Latham.
WHO IS GROWING MCINTOSH RED APPLE?--Information from an
interested member of the society is called for as to what success, if
any, has been had in growing the McIntosh Red top-worked on hardy trees
here in Minnesota. Scions of this variety have been sent out several
years by the society and probably some have already come into fruitage,
or perhaps they have been secured from other sources. Replies will be
published. Address Secy. Latham.
NO PLANT PREMIUMS AFTER APRIL 1ST.--All members ordering plant
premiums have undoubtedly noted this important condition that "all
applications for plant premiums must be made prior to April 1st." This
condition will be strictly adhered to, and those sending in selections
for plant premiums after that date need not feel disappointed if they do
not receive them. It is absolutely necessary to make a definite date
beyond which no applications will be received in order to work out
successfully the problem of distribution which faces us at that time.
TO MEMBERS OF AUXILIARY SOCIETIES.--Occasionally a member of an
auxiliary society writes to this office asking for a copy of the annual
volume of the society. Members of auxiliary societies are entitled to
this volume, but the State Society does not pay postage on it, the
amount received from auxiliary societies for memberships not permitting
this expense. Any member of any auxiliary society who wishes to have a
copy of the annual volume mailed from this office should send with the
application postage at the rate of seven cents if within one hundred
fifty miles of Minneapolis, and ten cents to points in the state more
than one hundred fifty miles from Minneapolis.
BUY NURSERY STOCK AT HOME.--There are always more or less
agents of foreign nurseries, that is nurseries located outside the
state, canvassing for orders of nursery stock in our state, and many
citizens are also tempted to reply to advertisements of outside
nurseries who are trying to secure business in Minnesota. It is not my
purpose to condemn these outside nurseries nor their methods of doing
business, which in most cases undoubtedly are honorable and straight
forward. But there is a real advantage in buying nursery stock at home,
that is, from nurserymen located in our own state, and especially from
nurserymen who are in the immediate vicinity. There is no class of goods
that one can buy in connection with which there is such opportunity for
mistake and fraud as in nursery stock. It is impossible for any but an
expert to tell by the appearance of a tree or plant of any kind what the
variety is, and either through mistake or purposely it is no uncommon
thing for those purchasing trees to be disappointed as to the names of
varieties when they come into fruitage or flower. If the nurseries are
in our own state, or in our vicinity, it is a very easy matter to get at
them, and they will almost uniformly be found willing to make good such
blunders, or if they don't and the matter is worth while they can be
made to do so. Don't place your orders outside of the state if the
things you want can be purchased at home. You will find it a real
advantage to act on this counsel. Especially in the case of strawberry
plants the element of distance is a very important one as on account of
their leafy character they heat and spoil readily. A few plants near
home are often worth more to the recipient than a large shipment from
abroad.
NURSERYMEN OF MINNESOTA.--The secretary endeavors to keep a
correct list of all those engaged in the nursery business in this state.
As far as his personal acquaintance goes of course the list is known to
be a correct one, but there are doubtless a number engaged in the
nursery business in a small way of whom he does not know personally, and
he would be glad to hear from any engaged in the nursery business who
are not personally acquainted with him so that their names may be added
to this list. The address of the secretary is always to be found on the
front cover page of this magazine.
THE SOCIAL ELEMENT AT OUR ANNUAL MEETING.--Those of our members
who attended the last annual meeting could not have failed to note the
large proportion of ladies in attendance at these meetings, not only at
the one managed by the Woman's Auxiliary, but also at every other
meeting during the four days session. You may be surprised to learn that
approximately one-third of those who registered as purposing to attend
the meeting belonged to the gentler sex, and the proportion in
attendance was somewhere in that neighborhood. This is one of the
delightful features of our annual gathering which is steadily
increasing. More and more are the ladies attending our meetings, and in
larger number are they becoming members of the association aside from
any relation they may sustain as wives or daughters to those who are
already members. This movement should be in every way encouraged, and we
hope another year to be able to offer still more attractive
accommodations in this direction. In planning for a new building for the
society, this feature of our work should not by any means be lost sight
of. I believe that very few organizations of this kind can boast so
large an interest on the part of the ladies in the various branches of
its work.
DID YOU SELECT EVERBEARING STRAWBERRIES AS YOUR PREMIUM?--An
altogether unexpected demand has been made upon us for the Everbearing
Strawberries the society is offering as plant premiums to its members
this spring. Probably twice as many plants have been called for as can
be furnished in the amount asked for. Under the "right of substitution"
which the society reserves in the matter of its plant premiums, probably
plant premium No. 16 will be substituted for Nos. 17 and 18 if matters
turn out as now appears, though the number of plants sent will be more
than is offered under No. 16. As this everbearing strawberry, originated
at the fruit-breeding farm, No. 1017, is a very prolific plant maker, a
dozen plants, if the runners are allowed to grow, will make plants
enough to set out a bed of them next year, large enough in all
probability for family use.
In the matter of June-bearing strawberry No. 3, offered as premium,
there is undoubtedly stock enough to fill all orders including those
asked for for which money has been sent, and we are in hopes that orders
for raspberry No. 4 can be filled in their entirety, though it may be
necessary to return money which has been sent for additional plants.
In this distribution all members will be treated exactly alike and
altogether in accordance with the conditions noted in connection with
the list of premiums as found on page six of the society folder and on
the inside front cover page of the magazine.
[Illustration: VIEW IN FRUIT-BREEDING GREENHOUSE, STATE COLLEGE,
BROOKINGS, S.D.
This is Prof. N. E. Hansen's laboratory, where he works out his problems
in cross-breeding. (See opposite page.)]
While it is not the intention to publish anything in this
magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be
remembered that the articles published herein recite the
experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must
always be noted in estimating their practical value.
THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST
Vol. 44 MAY, 1916 No. 5
What is Hardiness?
PROF. N. E. HANSEN, HORTICULTURIST, BROOKINGS, S.D.
By the term hardiness is understood the capacity to resist against any
special condition of environment. So in speaking of hardiness of the
plant it may mean hardiness as to either cold, heat, drouth, fungus or
insect trouble. In the present discussion hardiness against cold will be
considered mainly, since that is the most difficult problem we have to
meet in this horticultural field. It would be of great advantage could
we determine by examination of the plant its power to resist cold. If we
could determine by the looks of a new apple tree its power of resistance
to our test winters, it would save us many thousands of dollars and much
vexation of spirit. Some years ago the Iowa State Horticultural Society
made a determined and praiseworthy effort to determine hardiness by some
characteristic of the plant, especially in apple trees. A chemical test
of the sap of hardy and tender varieties was made. The palisade cells of
the leaf, and the cellular structure of the wood, were examined under
high powers of the microscope to determine some means by which a tender
variety could be distinguished from a hardy one, but no general rule or
conclusion could be formulated. In a general way nurserymen and
orchardists say that a variety that ripens its wood well in the fall
shows it by the twigs being sturdy and not easily bent, while twigs that
are not well ripened indicate lack of hardiness.
The winter of 1884-85 was preceded by a late, wet autumn that kept trees
of all varieties growing very late, so that winter came before the wood
was ripened. In all the literature on this subject, I have been unable
to find any method by which a hardy variety could be distinguished from
a tender one of the same species, or, in other words, there is no
correlation between morphology and hardiness.
Although we do not know what determines hardiness, we may still go ahead
with our experimental work. We do not really know what electricity is,
but inventors in that line have enough of a theory on this subject so
that they are able to work very successfully with this gigantic force of
nature. We know there is a difference in hardiness between the red cedar
of Tennessee and the red cedar of Minnesota, and that it is safest for
us to plant the tree as it is found at the north. The same applies to
many other trees that are found native over a wide area. At Moscow,
Russia, the box elder as first imported was from St. Louis, and it
winter-killed. Afterwards they got the box elder from Manitoba, and it
proved perfectly hardy. Although botanically both are the same, yet
there is a difference in hardiness.
My way of securing hardiness is to work with plants that are already
hardy. I like to work with native plums in my plant breeding experiments
because there need be no concern about their hardiness. We know they are
hardy, or they would not be here after thousands of years of natural
selection in this climate.
The other way of obtaining hardiness is by crossing a tender variety
with a hardy one. When we cross the native plum with the Japanese plum,
we obtain seedlings that combine in a fair measure the hardiness of the
native plum with the size and quality of the Japanese plum.
In many states of the Union the question of varieties for commercial
orchards has been to a large degree settled. There is always room for a
new apple, but for commercial purposes the varieties already in
cultivation are sufficiently satisfactory as to size, color and quality
as well as in keeping and shipping capacity. So the main effort in their
horticultural societies is along other lines, such questions as
marketing, packing, spraying, insects, fungi and orchard management. But
in this region the winter apple question is still a vital one.
Some promising winter apples have appeared recently, and it remains to
be seen whether they will stand up under the next test winter. They are
certainly satisfactory in size, color, quality and keeping capacity.
The greatest question now presents itself in planting apple seed. What
variety shall I choose? Some pedigrees may be like a blind alley, they
will lead us nowhere. The commercial apples of the East and of the
Pacific Coast are the survivors of millions of apple seedlings raised
by immigrants from Western Europe during the past three centuries. They
survived because they were the best. From time to time very good
varieties are super-ceded by new ones that appear. From the ashes of
millions of seedlings will arise, Phoenix-like, the creations that will
dominate our future prairie pomology. Here in the Northwest thousands of
farmers have already determined to a considerable extent what we may
expect from planting the seed of certain standard varieties.
[Illustration: The Waneta plum. A promising variety originated and
introduced by Prof. N. E. Hansen.]
Wisconsin, Minnesota and Iowa are full of seedlings of the Duchess. Some
of the best are Okabena, Peerless, Patten's Greening, Milwaukee, Dudley,
Pewaukee. A very large amount of Wealthy seed has been planted,
especially in Minnesota. Many of these give promise, but in none do we
appear to have obtained the true winter-keeping capacity. The Wealthy
has given us the Lord's L, Evelyn, Lyman Sweet, Perfect and many more,
observed at Minnesota state fairs from time to time. The Malinda has
given us in the Perkins' seedlings a number of promising new varieties
that evidently are true winter keepers. The fact that they appear hardy
may come from the fact that the original orchard had hardy varieties,
like the Duchess, standing near the Malinda. From the experience with
these three varieties I would like to draw the conclusion that in order
to get winter apples we should save the seed of winter apples, but it
would not be safe to draw this conclusion without further experiments.
There is an immense number of Ben Davis seedlings in Missouri and
adjoining states, but none appear to have come into extensive commercial
notice except the Black Ben Davis and Gano. But as near as I can learn
we cannot obtain real hardiness from this line of descent, unless the
Ben Davis in the mother orchard is standing near varieties like the
Duchess.
The seed of standard winter apples top-grafted on hardy stocks like
Hibernal should be carefully saved as nature may have smiled with
indulgence upon your efforts and created the desired variety. I am
watching with great interest a tree of very vigorous, smooth growth,
from seed of Talman Sweet top-grafted on Duchess. You would not expect
to get anything hardy from seed of the Talman Sweet, but the entire
hardiness so far of the young trees propagated from the original
seedling, makes me impatient to see the fruit. A blend of Talman Sweet
and Duchess ought certainly to bring something good, but they will not
all be hardy or all good. The fact that there are so many different
lines of pedigree available to us in our apple work, makes it all the
more necessary for us to divide the work.
Let us gather inspiration from the story of Johnny Apple-Seed--one of
the patron saints of American horticulture--who about one hundred and
twenty-five years ago forced his way through the wilderness of Indiana
and Ohio and planted many bushels of apple seed as he went along, so
that when settlers came they found their orchards ready for them. The
story of John Chapman and his unselfish efforts in planting the seed of
apples and other fruits in the American wilderness should give us
courage and patience to give a little of our time to this work. Make a
record of what seeds you plant, and when the seedlings are one year of
age plant them out in a row where they can be cultivated. Select the
best ones as they fruit and bring to the state fair or horticultural
meeting. You may not win the grand prize, but you will have the
satisfaction of having made some contribution to the common welfare.
* * * * *
In localities where cottontails are sufficiently abundant to be a
continual menace, the safest and most nearly permanent method of
securing immunity from their ravages is to fence against them. It has
been found that woven wire netting of one and one-half inch mesh and
thirty inches high will exclude rabbits, provided, that the lower border
of the fence is buried five or six inches below the surface of the
ground. In cases where a small number of trees are concerned, a cylinder
of similar wire netting around each tree, if so fastened that it cannot
be pushed up close against the tree, serves the purpose more
economically.
Standardizing Minnesota Potatoes.
A. W. AAMODT, UNIVERSITY FARM, ST. PAUL.
(Gideon Memorial Contest.)
The potato is one of the large farm crops of the country, rating next to
the cereals in importance. According to the census report of 1909,
United States produced 389,194,965 bushels, and three-fourths of these
were consumed in the states in which they were produced. The report also
shows that the most extensive production was along the northern tier of
states, from Maine to Minnesota. In 1909 the states ranked in production
as follows: New York, Michigan, Wisconsin, Maine, Minnesota,
Pennsylvania, Ohio, Iowa, Illinois and Colorado. In the same year
Minnesota ranked fourth in surplus production, producing sixteen per
cent. of the potatoes which entered into interstate commerce. Wisconsin
produced twenty per cent., Michigan twenty-four per cent. and Maine
twenty-five per cent.
[Illustration: Figure I. Rural New Yorker.]
In Minnesota the largest part of these potatoes are grown in certain
districts of the state, and according to the 1909 census the counties
rank in respective order, namely: Hennepin, Isanti, Chisago, Clay,
Anoka, Sherburne, Washington, Ottertail, Dakota, and Mille Lacs. This
shows that the largest production is in the vicinity of St. Paul and
Minneapolis, and the Red River Valley, especially in Clay County.
The following statement shows the per cent. of increase in acreage from
1900 to 1910 and that the older districts are being rapidly outdone by
the counties towards the northern part of the state:
Clay, 455 per cent.; Sherburne, 254 per cent.; Polk, 136 per cent.;
Todd, 109 per cent.; Hennepin, 83 per cent.; Anoka, 58 per cent.;
Isanti, 26 per cent.; Chisago, 17 per cent.
From these reports it is also evident that the distribution of the
surplus is entirely towards the southern states, either as table stock
or as seed potatoes, which in turn varies with the different years
because of differences in crop yields. But as a general rule Maine, New
York and Michigan supply the states in the east, east central and
southeastern part of the country, Wisconsin the Chicago market and
Minnesota the Mississippi Valley, especially Nebraska and Kansas. In
addition Minnesota ships seed potatoes to many of the Southern states.
[Illustration: Figure II. Burbank.]
Because of these markets, potato shippers maintain that competition is
extremely keen between the potato growing sections of this country.
There can be no doubt that the only way Minnesota can meet her increase
in yield and increase in demand is to determine whether or not she will
expand her markets to the territory which is now being held by the other
states. But before Minnesota can get these markets and obtain the better
prices, she must standardize her potatoes. That is, Minnesota can
obtain great improvement by adopting certain standards for the grading
and sorting of potatoes.
At a conference held in Chicago, last February, of representatives from
the growing, shipping and marketing interests, the following
recommendations for greater uniformity in potato shipments were made:
_Size._--Market stock of round white varieties shall be graded over a
screen which measures 1-7/8 inches in the clear. For long white
varieties a screen of 1-3/4 inches, in the clear, is recommended.
_Weight._--Stock running over twelve ounces is undesirable and not over
five per cent. of this maximum weight should be allowed in first class
shipments.
[Illustration: Figure III. Burbank Russet.]
_Quality._--Stock should be practically free from serious external
imperfections, including late blight rot, common scab, sunburn, frost
injury, bruises, knobbiness, second growth, etc. Stock should be mature
and clean.
_Varietal purity._--Commercial potato shipments should be graded to one
variety.
All indications show that Minnesota must grade and sort for commercial
shipments of potatoes, and that a definite brand or grade designating a
definite standard must be adopted in order to secure the highest prices.
All inferior stock must be thrown out, and the best potatoes given a
chance to make an attractive showing.
The standing which Minnesota potatoes will have in the market will be
determined a great deal by the grading, which is usually the work of
the dealer, although some farmers do their own grading by hand. Ungraded
potatoes injure the Minnesota potato trade and reduce the profits, as
the freight is the same on dirt, small and unsound potatoes as it is on
the fine stock. As much as a ton of dirt and culls is sometimes found in
a car on the Chicago "team tracks" after the wholesale merchant has
sacked all he is willing to accept. This freight, sorting charges and
cost of disposing of refuse must be paid by some one. Co-operating to
improve the sorting done at loading stations is a means of establishing
a grade to meet competition and to reach new markets.
[Illustration: Figure IV. Early Ohio.]
Standardization also means grading to eliminate potatoes infected with
disease, such as common scab and late blight, sunken discolorations or
dry hard blisters, green, spongy and coarse stock. All of these defects
tend to lower prices.
In order to increase the value of the Minnesota potato we must also
supply the market with the variety which it demands, and, furthermore,
this variety must be free from mixture. Minnesota has already taken a
step in this direction. The Minnesota Agricultural Experiment Station,
Minnesota Crop Improvement Association and the Minnesota Potato Growers'
Association have recommended the following varieties and types to be
selected and grown.
The Rural New Yorker, as shown in Figure 1, is the leading round, white,
late potato for Minnesota. It is a good yielding and keeping variety,
fine in quality, an excellent market sort and suitable for almost any
soil.
Similar to the Rural New Yorker are the Carman No. 3 and Sir Walter
Raleigh.
The Green Mountain is a desirable white late potato, similar to the
Rural New Yorker, but more oblong and with squarer ends. It is better
suited to rich heavy soils than the Rural New Yorker, as they are not so
likely to grow hollow.
[Illustration: Figure V. Triumph.]
Other similar varieties are the Carman No. 1, Green Mountain, Jr., and
State of Maine.
The Burbank (Fig. II) is a long, white, late potato of excellent quality
and suitable only for rich, loose, loam soils. Thrives well upon new
rich soils that are well supplied with humus.
Other inferior varieties confused with the Burbank are the White Chief,
White Star and Pingree.
The Burbank Russet (Fig. III) is a long, russet, late potato differing
mainly from the Burbank in its heavily russeted skin. Very fine for
baking. Suitable for low, moist, friable and peaty soils.
The Early Ohio (Fig. IV) is the leading early potato in Minnesota. The
type is oval with a pinkish or flesh colored skin. It is particularly
suited to the black, rich, friable soils.
The Triumph (Fig. V) is a round, red, very early potato, valuable for
southern seed trade. It suffers severely from drought, and, therefore,
soils subject to this condition should be avoided.
Similar or identical varieties are Red Bliss, Bliss, Triumph and Stray
Beauty.
The Irish Cobbler is a promising white, early, roundish potato of good
quality, although inferior to the Early Ohio. It has not been
sufficiently tested out, but is promising for southern seed trade.
Similar variety is the Extra Early Eureka.
The King is a broad, oblong, reddish potato. Very suitable for worn-out
and sandy soils.
Similar or identical variety is the Maggie Murphy.
In conclusion I would have you to remember the main points of this paper
which may be summarized as follows:
First. That Minnesota is one of the leading potato producing states of
the Union.
Second. That Minnesota must establish a reputation for a continuous
supply of well graded stock practically free from diseases and
blemishes.
Third. That Minnesota must create a general interest in better seed,
true to name and type.
Finally. Minnesota must secure the co-operation of all agencies
interested in the production, distribution and utilization of potatoes
to get better production, better grading and better marketing.
* * * * *
INSECTS HELP RAISE CROP.--It is well known that most of our
crop plants will not form fruit and seed unless the flowers are properly
pollinated. The principal carriers of pollen are wind and insects. In
some plants, such as the beet, both wind and insects play an important
part in the spread of pollen. In all cereals and grasses, and in the
potato, the pollen is carried mainly by wind. In most of our common
plants of garden, field, and orchard, insects are the chief and most
effective carriers of pollen. The following is a list of
insect-pollinated plants: Onions, asparagus, buckwheat, gooseberry,
currant, cabbage, radish, turnip, raspberry, blackberry, strawberry,
apple, pear, plum, cherry, peach, alfalfa, clover, melons, cucumbers and
squashes. We are very dependent upon the bees and other insects for a
good crop yield.--W. W. Robbins, Colorado Agri. College.
Annual Report, 1915, Vice-President, Eighth Congressional District.
FRANK H. CUTTING, DULUTH.
This district embraces within its limits a very large area having
different characteristics from a horticultural standpoint. Much of the
land has a high elevation and is rolling or hilly, and much is low and
comparatively level. A considerable portion is close to Lake Superior
and other large bodies of water and, therefore, governed by conditions
with respect to frost different from those controlling land not so
situated. The quality or character of the soil is also varying.
The foregoing considerations probably furnish the reason for the widely
differing reports secured on the blanks distributed, and which were
quite generally answered. This prompts the suggestion that before
planting commercially or on a large scale one should personally conduct
a series of experiments on land designed for use to test its
adaptability for the fruits intended.
We suffered a frost and hard freeze on the 18th day of May which greatly
damaged the fruit buds; the temperature registered on that day at the
United States Weather Office being 27°. The month of June was the
coolest in forty-five years. The low temperature of the summer months
and lack of sunshine resulted in a tardy development of fall fruits and
a failure to mature them. Even the Beta grape and the Compass cherry did
not ripen their fruit. The Opata plum, however, bore a large crop of
ripe plums early in September.
Very little blight has been reported.
The weather report shows a deficiency of precipitation up to December 1
of 3.81 inches. However, the heavy rains in November immediately before
the ground froze supplied sufficient moisture to enable trees and shrubs
to stand the winter.
The following list is suggested by the reports:
Apples: Duchess, Okabena, Wealthy, Patten's Greening.
Crab Apples: Florence, Early Strawberry, Virginia.
Plums: Cheney, Aitkin, Compass, Opata.
Grape: Beta.
Cherries: Reports generally unfavorable.
Blackberries: No kinds reported favorably.
Raspberry: Minnetonka Ironclad, King, Cuthbert, Older.
Strawberries: Dunlap; Everbearing--Progressive and Superb.
Currants: Red Dutch, Perfection, Wilder, White Grape.
Gooseberries: Carrie, Houghton, Downing.
Hardy Perennial Flowers: Peonies, Phlox, Sweet William, Delphinium,
Canterbury Bells, Foxglove, Oriental Poppies, Iceland Poppies.
Hardy Shrubs: Snowball, Hydrangea, Lilac, Honeysuckle, High Bush
Cranberry.
Annual Report, 1915, Paynesville Trial Station.
FRANK BROWN, SUPT.
The summer of 1915 will long be remembered as the summer with no warm
weather. There was a heavy frost the morning of June 10th. The season's
rainfall was very heavy, but trees at the best made only a normal
growth, and with many varieties, especially of forest trees, the growth
was much less than the usual growth of even a dry season.
Some fruit trees blossomed quite early, and the young fruit formed
during a warm spell, and these trees were heavily loaded with fruit.
This was especially noticeable with Wealthy, Duchess, Okabena and
Whitney No. 20 apples, and with some of the Hansen hybrid plums. Other
trees, fully as good bearers, blossomed a few days later and set no
fruit at all, the frost killing the blossoms while not severe enough to
harm the fruit already set.
The cool weather of this past season has probably helped fruit growers
more than it has hindered them, for had it been as hot as it usually is
when we have such a tremendous rainfall, blight would most certainly
have caused much trouble, but as it was we have had practically no
blight at all.
This season has again demonstrated very plainly the advantages of
top-working, such trees making a better growth, and the fruit being more
even, and less troubled with spots, scab, etc.
The plums sent to this station the spring of 1913 bore no fruit at all
this season, but the trees made a fair growth and all appear healthy
except a few that froze back the winter of 1913-14.
The plum trees sent from the central station the spring of 1914 made a
very poor growth that season, owing undoubtedly to the fact that the
roots were dry when reaching here, but this last season all but one made
a splendid growth, and one No. 10, to my surprise, produced five plums
that for beauty and eating qualities would place this variety in the
front rank with the best in the state. We shall watch these trees with
great interest and will report on their actions as they develop.
The four trees of No. 1 plum, sent here the spring of 1915 from the
central station, made a splendid growth, each tree developing fruit buds
in abundance.
Of the seven varieties of raspberries sent here the spring of 1913,
three made good this last season. No. 2 bore a tremendous crop of very
large fruit, in quality the best; No. 4 bore heavily, an all around
good berry and apparently a good shipper; No. 7 produced a good crop,
not quite as large as No. 2, but continued in bearing for a long period.
Further testing will be necessary for these berries, but so far they
look good.
There is little to say about grapes, except the growth has been good,
and the amount of fruit buds started immense, but the frost and
unsuitable weather told the tale--we won't repeat it.
Of strawberries we will say this: If the central station did nothing in
five years except to produce the strawberry known as Minnesota No. 3,
they have still done well. It is hardy, a good shipper, it is delicious
with cream and sugar, a good canner, in fact a great big Senator Dunlap
with no green core, but ripens to the tip. It is also a good plant
producer.
The strawberry known as No. 1017, planted last spring, did well. It is a
wonderful plant producer, having a very heavy, dark green foliage, it
seems to be a good bearer of large, dark red berries.
With the wood on the fruit trees thoroughly ripened, and fruit buds in
good condition, we may look ahead to the future with courage, believing
that all things come to him that waits in Minnesota, providing he
hustles while he waits.
* * * * *
RED ROSE BEETLE IS EASILY KILLED.--Did you ever wait patiently
in the spring for your favorite Japanese rose to bloom and find when the
buds were ready to burst that it was scaly and spotted around punctures
made by the red rose beetle? Then did you vow once more to destroy the
beetles when you saw the roses begin to wither from punctures made by
the beetle in the stem?
The destruction of the red rose beetle is simple, according to a
circular recently issued by the Minnesota state entomologist, University
Farm, St. Paul. The method is to cultivate the ground around the rose
bush early this spring and cultivate it again in the late fall. This
will destroy many of the beetles, for they live in the soil in the
winter. Then a few of the pests can be hand-picked and destroyed.
If they are still too thick, they may be removed next fall for safety to
next year's blooms. The beetle lays its eggs in the hip of the rose.
These can be seen after the rose is in full bloom as a black spot,
covered over with no noticeable depression. The growing pests leave the
old blossom by the middle of September and go into the soil until next
spring.
The bush should be examined in the latter part of August for any flower
hips containing insect larvae and all found should be plucked and
burned. A few hours' work will insure a beautifully blooming bush next
year.
Annual Report, 1915, Jeffers Trial Station.
DEWAIN COOK, SUPT.
The 1915 apple crop at this station was a complete failure, owing to the
freezes of late May and early June. This apple failure, so far as I have
been able to ascertain, was prevalent over the entire county of
Cottonwood, although we could hear of plenty of apples being grown only
a short distance over the county line in all directions excepting to the
west of us.
[Illustration: A windbreak at Dewain Cook's, mostly white willow.]
The season has been one of cool weather and much rainfall, so much so
that although we had no killing frosts this fall until October 5th, yet
no corn or melons ripened in this vicinity. We quit spraying our fruit
trees when the freeze came last spring and destroyed the apple crop, and
the result has been that there was much scab on the foliage of many
varieties of our apple trees. The Antonovka and the Hibernal seem to be
about the healthiest in this respect. As to the fire blight there has
been absolutely none at this station the season just passed.
As for plums we got a few bushels in the final roundup, De Sotos, Wolfs
and Wyants mostly. Of the Japanese hybrids, we got a few specimens of
the B.A.Q. The Emerald bore freely, but the fruit mostly either was
destroyed by the brown rot or cracked badly just as they were getting
ripe. The Tokata, one of Hansen's hybrids, gave us specimens of very
fine fruit.
Of the apricot hybrids only the Hanska made any pretense of trying to
bear anything, but the curculio got away with about all of them.
When I made the midsummer report most of Hansen's sand cherry hybrids
were promising a good crop, but with the exception of the Enopa and
Kakeppa, from which we gathered a few quarts of fruits, we got nothing.
The brown rot, assisted by the curculio, took them all. It sure looks
as if we ever expect to make a general success with these sand cherry
hybrids and with the Japanese hybrids, we will have to be better
educated along the line of controlling this disease that is so very
destructive to the fruit of some varieties of plums, especially of those
varieties that have sand cherry or Japanese blood in them.
[Illustration: A veteran white spruce at Mr. Cook's place.]
[Illustration: Specimen Colorado blue spruce at Dewain Cook's.]
We have to report a grand success with everbearing strawberry No. 1017,
sent to this station from our State Fruit-Breeding Farm last spring. The
season all through was favorable for that class of fruit. We kept all
blossoms picked off till about the first of August, when we let
everything grow, and there is a great number of new plants. These new
plants, with a few exceptions, did not bear, but the old plants, the
ones set last spring, we gathered from them, from about September 15
till the first hard frost, October 5th, a liberal crop of surprisingly
fine fruit. The Americus, also an everbearing variety, treated exactly
as we did Minnesota 1017, bore a great number of plants and some fruit
in the fall. The berries were not so large as the 1017 nor so many of
them. While it is a perfect flowering variety, most of the late blossoms
blighted, which seems to be a weakness of this variety.
On November 5th our strawberry beds were all given a mulching with loose
oat straw for a winter protection.
The several varieties of grape vines originating at the Minnesota State
Farm on trial here have all made a vigorous growth. We have them all
pruned and laid on the ground, and we intend to give them no other
winter protection. They are in a sheltered location. In spite of the
various freezes early in the season we got samples of fruit from most of
the varieties. Minnesota No. 8 seems to be the earliest to ripen its
fruit. The wild grape flavor is noticeable in all these varieties.
The various varieties of plum trees sent here from the State Farm made
vigorous growth the past season and are looking healthy with the
exception of Minnesota No. 21. Of the five trees of this variety each
one has a great many galls on the body of the tree. It is probably what
is termed black knot, only the galls have not turned black yet. They are
apparently of too recent growth for that. It is probable that we will
plant other trees in their places next spring.
* * * * *
PAINTING OF SMALL TREE WOUNDS USELESS.--It has long been the
custom for horticulturists to recommend, and fruit growers to use,
dressings of various kinds on the wounds of trees when branches are
removed in pruning. A few years ago the New York Experiment Station
decided to conduct some experiments to determine whether such practice
was really of any value or not.
From results of this work, which have recently been published in
bulletin form, it is concluded that the use of white lead, white zinc,
yellow ochre, coal tar, shellac and avenarious carbolineum as coverings
for wounds under five inches in diameter is not only useless, but
usually detrimental to the tree. This is particularly true of peaches,
and perhaps of some other stone fruits, which, according to
recommendations, should never be treated at all.
The substances mentioned often injure the cambium layer to such an
extent that the healing of wounds is greatly retarded. Of the substances
experimented with, white lead proved to be the best and is recommended
wherever anything is used. But it is not thought worth while to use even
white lead for wounds two or three inches or less in diameter, though it
may be advisable to use it on wounds where very large branches have been
removed.
On the larger wounds, where much surface is exposed to decay, the white
lead will help to keep out moisture and the organisms which cause decay.
The smaller wounds, however, heal so quickly that the evil effects of
the covering may more than offset the benefits derived from its
use.--R.A. McGinty, Colorado Agricultural College, Fort Collins,
Colorado.
Annual Report, 1915, Montevideo Trial Station.
LYCURGUS R. MOYER, SUPT.
About twenty-six years ago a plantation of white spruce was made at this
station. The trees flourished for several years and bade fair to become
a permanent success, but some six or eight years ago they began to fail
and many of them have since died. The survivors are all in poor
condition. It seems that this tree is not well adapted to prairie
conditions, at least not to the prairies of Southwestern Minnesota. Its
native range is much further north. Here it evidently suffers from heat
and dryness. The Black Hills spruce is commonly regarded as belonging to
the same species. It has not been tested nearly so long, but so far it
seems to be entirely hardy.
Something like thirty years ago a few trees of black spruce, a few trees
of European larch and a few trees of balsam fir were planted here. They
have long since disappeared. White pine planted at about the same time
disappeared with them. A single tree of Scotch pine planted at about the
same time, standing in the open, is gnarled and crooked and shows a
great many dead branches. A forest plantation of several thousand Scotch
pine, made something like twenty-two years ago, is still in good
condition. Many of the trees are from twenty-five to thirty feet high.
Some of the smaller trees have been over-topped and smothered out, but
generally the trees seem healthy. A few hundred of the black, or
Austrian, pine were set at the same time. They are about two-thirds of
the height of the Scotch pine, but they are as healthy and vigorous
trees as one would care to see. Some trees of rock, or bull, pine (Pinus
scopulorum) were set at the same time. They have grown at about the same
rate as the black pine and are healthy, vigorous trees.
Norway spruce has done better here than white spruce, some old trees
fruiting freely. The Colorado blue spruce (Picea pungens) seems to be
our best spruce, and so far as tested the Black Hills spruce is a good
second. Douglas fir has been planted in a small way in the parks, but it
is young yet.
It seems probable that the Scotch pines in the forestry plantation owe
their comparatively good condition to the shelter they get from the hot
winds from being planted close together, and from the fact that they are
partly protected by the black pines planted to the west of them. The
single tree of Scotch pine above referred to has had garden cultivation
for thirty years, but it seems likely that it was injured by the same
hot winds that killed the white pine and the larch. The Scotch pine is a
native of Northern Europe, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Scotland, Normandy
(near the ocean) and Germany and Russia around the Baltic, and all these
countries have a moist, cool climate. The black pine is a native of
Southern Europe, growing all the way from Southern Spain to the Taurus
Mountains in Asia Minor. In its native habitat it has become accustomed
to the hot winds that often sweep across the Mediteranean, the burning
sirocco of the Great Sahara. The dwarf mountain pine, Pinus Montana,
grows in the Pyrenees, in the Alps, in the Carpathians and in the Balkan
Mountains, so that it, too, often encounters the hot winds that come
across from the African deserts. It is probable that the ability of the
black pine, the dwarf mountain pine, the Black Hills spruce, and the
rock pine to flourish on the prairies of Southwestern Minnesota is due
to the fact that all these trees have become accustomed to resisting the
hot, dry winds that often reach them in their native habitats.
The Norway spruce (Picea excelsa) in its many varieties is native to
almost the whole of Europe, extending from north of the Arctic Circle to
the Pyrenees and Balkan Mountains in Southern Europe. We could then
expect that trees from the Pyrenees or from the Balkans might be so well
accustomed to the hot winds from Africa as to make them resist, at least
for some time, the hot winds of the prairies. And they do seem to stand
better than the white spruce or the balsam fir or the white pine.
Some report should be made on the material sent out for trial from the
State Fruit-Breeding Farm. The strawberry, No. 1017, made a fine growth,
and promised a large crop of fruit in September, but a few days of quite
dry weather, following a very wet spell, ruined the crop at ripening
time.
The raspberry, No. 4, is a great producer of sprouts and multiplies
enormously, but it seems to be a rather shy fruiter, and the fruit is
not of the highest quality. It is intermediate in season. No. 5 is a
much larger and better berry, although not quite so hardy. Both came
through the winter, without covering, in good condition. No. 8 seems to
resemble the old Columbian. It does not sucker much. It is a large, late
berry of good quality. It was covered, so its hardiness is untested.
Prof. Hansen's Oheta is a berry of much promise. It is of fine quality
and fruits abundantly.
The hybrid plums were sprayed with a commercial dust spray but not
effectively enough, for the fruit all rotted. We shall try more thorough
spraying next season.
Patten's Greening, Oldenburg, Okabena and Simbrish No. 1 produced a good
crop of apples. With us Okabena is undersized, of poor flavor and an
extremely poor keeper.
The Growing of Vegetables for Canning.
M. H. HEGERLE, PRES. CANNING FACTORY, ST. BONIFACIUS.
The state authorities, through the Agricultural Farm and other sources,
are doing good work promoting and encouraging the growing of vegetables,
but it seems more could be done towards the marketing and conservation
of these vegetables after they are grown.
The growing season for vegetables in this state is comparatively short,
and although during that short period everybody eats vegetables, every
grocer's show windows, and even the sidewalks, are used to display them,
and a tremendous business is done, yet there are tons and tons of nice
fresh vegetables go to waste, not only for the market or truck farmer
but in every family garden--be the same ever so small, there is a steady
waste going on, all of which could easily be conserved _by canning_.
Canning is simply putting the fresh vegetables in tin cans or glass jars
(the latter are much more expensive, but no better), steaming and
sealing them and setting aside until wanted. By doing this every truck
farmer, and any one having ever so small a garden, could conserve enough
which otherwise would go to waste to keep them in real fresh vegetables
all winter.
Of course the thousands living in the cities having no garden can not do
this and are therefore dependent on the canning factory for their fresh
vegetables, and here is where my topic comes in, _the growing of
vegetables for canning_.
It is no trick to grow vegetables for home canning, any variety will do.
You need not select a big lot of one kind, and you need not sort for
size or color. Just take the surplus as you find it in your garden from
day to day. All it needs is, it must be fresh and it must be thoroughly
clean--but growing for the canning factory is different. To line up
fifty to 200 growers to sow the same seed, to plant, harvest and bring
to the factory just when in right condition, requires time and hard
work. This really is the hardest problem the canning factory has to
solve, and that is the reason why all successful canners grow at least
part of their product.
You must remember vegetables put in cans will come out just as you put
them in. If you put in stale, tough, stringy beans you will be sure to
find them there when you open the can, but if you put in fresh, tender
beans, peas, corn or whatever else, you will find these exactly as you
put them in, and it's immaterial whether you open this can the first,
second or tenth year. We must not forget that vegetables properly
sterilized and sealed will keep indefinitely, and they require no
preservative of any kind. No canning factory uses any preservative, and
no home cannery should use them.
[Illustration: Upland Farm, St. Bonifacius, Minn.]
There was a time when canning was considered an art or a secret. I
remember receiving circulars offering for sale the secrets of canning,
and while in the grocery business some twelve years ago I sold thousands
of packages of canning compound. These canning compounds, after a
thorough examination by our State Food Department, were found not only
worthless but harmful if put in canned foods.
_Remember_, to can vegetables successfully, it requires no canning
compound or preservative of any kind, simply fresh and thoroughly clean
vegetables.
Fresh vegetables are a good, healthy food, we all know this; and besides
they are cheaper than meat; therefore should be on our tables two or
three times a day. But mind you, they must be fresh, and while for some
of us during the growing season it is comparatively easy to get them
fresh, yet during the rest of the year, say eight to ten months, real
fresh vegetables in bulk are hard to find and high in price. A lot of
so-called fresh vegetables shipped in from a distance at best require
several days to make the rounds through the grower, the shipper, the
jobber, the retailer--to our tables and are really not fresh. They have
become stale, and by coming in contact with different kinds of material
have lost their delicate flavor. Therefore to insure real fresh
vegetables for our tables, at least during the winter months, we must
take the canned article.
All of us remember how most everything in the grocery line was handled
in bulk, dried fruits, cereals of all kinds, coffee, tea, etc., was
displayed on the counters, along the aisles and even outside along the
sidewalk, handled and examined by any one and exposed to dust and flies.
Just about the same way are vegetables in bulk handled today. Where is
the grocer who would go back to those days, and where is the public that
would patronize him?
Mrs. Glenzke: What vegetables do you can?
Mr. Hegerle: We can corn; beans, string and wax; apples, tomatoes, etc.
Mrs. Glenzke: How do you manage to get the farmers to bring them in? In
Wisconsin it was a failure. As you say, they came when they got their
work done, and the whole bunch came there at one time.
Mr. Hegerle: That is the hardest work, to get the growers to bring the
vegetables when they are in the right condition and when they should be
canned.
Mrs. Glenzke: There are five canning factories in that neighborhood now,
and there isn't a one of them that allows the farmers to bring their
stuff. They rent the farmers' land for themselves. For miles and miles
you can't find a farmer that hasn't rented his farm.
Mr. Hegerle: You have to have the vegetables at the right time.
Mrs. Glenzke: They use the farmer's team and give him all the assistance
they can. It does away with having them all at one time. I have seen
twenty-five farmers come at one time. I don't see how you manage it.
Mr. Hegerle: We have had a lot of trouble, and we are growing some of
our vegetables.
Mrs. Glenzke: You can raise four successive crops of peas on the same
ground, and you can make that work all right. They used to can squash,
corn, tomatoes, and they have got down to peas entirely.
A Member: Doesn't most of that trouble arise from the low prices?
Mr. Hegerle: No, not entirely. The price when contracted is
satisfactory, and we find in our experience in growing our own
vegetables we can grow them cheaper than what we pay to the growers. But
we wouldn't grow any if we could get the growers to bring them in when
they are in the right shape. When corn is at a certain stage to make a
good canned article it has got to be brought in that day, and if the
farmer don't bring it, if he has a state fair on or a wedding or a
funeral or something and delays it a day or two, then it is all off;
that corn is lost.
Mr. Sauter: I would like to know which is the best beans for canning,
the yellow or the green?
Mr. Hegerle: Well, we prefer the Refugee, both in wax and green. We
prefer them because they are the best in flavor we have.
Mr. Sauter: Which is the best, the flat or the round of the wax?
Mr. Hegerle: Round is preferred by the trade, by the grocers or jobbers.
I have kept the flat wax beans for my own use of those that we can.
Mr. Sauter: Don't the flat ones bring a little more than the round ones?
Mr. Hegerle: Well, probably the first or second picking, but you can't
pick them as often as the other variety. The Refugee you can pick four
or five or six times, and the flat beans can only be picked two times.
Mr. Anderson: I would like to ask what you pay for beans for canning
purposes?
Mr. Hegerle: We pay from 3/4 of a cent up to 4 cents a pound. Sometimes
a man brings in some that are almost too good to throw away, they are
big and stringy, and rather than send them home we think we have got to
take them and pay him something for them. We would rather not have them,
and we usually dump them. Starting from that we pay up to three and four
cents. Four cents for well sorted and mostly small beans. They have got
to be graded, 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. Number 1 is the smallest, and they bring
the best price. We pay in proportion to the number 1's and 2's in the
load.
Mr. Sauter: What tomato do you find the best for canning?
Mr. Hegerle: Well, the Earliana.
Mr. Sauter: Do you have any trouble with those bursting the cans?
Mr. Hegerle: No, sir.
Mr. Sauter: We had that trouble in canning for our own use. They burst
the can, they expanded.
Mr. Hegerle: That is the fault of the man, not of the tomato.
Mr. Sauter: They were picked and canned the same day.
Mr. Hegerle: Probably not sterilized enough. Sterilizing fruit is the
main thing. A tomato is really one of the easiest things to can.
Mr. Sauter: In other tomatoes we don't have that trouble. It seems to
hurt the sale of them to the women folks.
Mr. Hegerle: Sterilize them a little more.
Mr. Sauter: About how long would you cook them?
Mr. Hegerle: I am not the man at the wheel on that part. I don't know.
We have a superintendent that handles that part of it.
Top-Grafting.
AN EXERCISE LED BY A. J. PHILIPS, WEST SALEM, WIS., AT 1915 ANNUAL
MEETING OF THE SOCIETY.
Mr. Philips: When I first talked top-working in Minnesota, Professor
Green and some of the knowing ones felt a little leary about it, but I
kept right on just the same. The most I have got out of top-working is
the pleasure I have had, doing the work and seeing the fruit grow. I
inherited a love for top-working from my father. He used to top-work
some, and after I began planting trees my old friend Wilcox used to come
and visit me, and he was strong on top-working on hardy roots. I used to
make a little sport of the old man, but no more I guess than people have
made of me for doing the same thing. He made me a proposition about
forty years ago. He says, "You plant ten trees of a good variety to
top-work on--I will pick them out for you--and then you top-work them
with Wealthy, and then plant ten Wealthy trees right beside them on the
same land and in the same rows, right together, and see which will do
the best." At the end of ten years the Wealthy on their own roots had
borne good crops but they began to fail, while the top-worked ones (on
Virginia crab) were just at their best bearing at that time. Professor
Green came and looked them over at the end of fifteen years. The first
ten on their own roots were dead, and the others grafted on Virginia
bore apples until they were twenty-five years old. That convinced me
that top-working in certain cases would pay if done on a hardy stock.
I have seen a Northwestern Greening tree that was crotched, split apart
and lay down when it was loaded with apples, in Waupacca County, but
when grafted onto a stock whose limbs grew out horizontal it will carry
a load of fruit until it ripens without injury.
I won a first prize at the Omaha exposition. My apples were not much
better, but they were top-worked and were a little larger. I have some
specimens here that show the practical difference. These grew on my own
land. I found in showing apples in Milwaukee at their fairs that I could
always get the best specimens from the top-worked trees. That convinced
me that you could grow better fruit that way.
Mr. Brackett: What age do you commence the grafting?
Mr. Philips: I like to commence at two years old. I like to set a
Virginia crab and let it grow one year and then commence top-working,
and top-work about half the first year and the balance the second.
Mr. Brackett: Is that in the nursery row?
Mr. Philips: No, where I am going to have it grow. I have found the
Virginia--and the Hibernal, too, either of them, very vigorous trees.
The Virginia is very vigorous. You dig up a Virginia tree, and you find
a great mass of roots; it has strength, and it grows fast. I have
top-worked about forty varieties on the Virginia and some on Hibernal.
Mr. Cady was there and looked it over, Prof. Green was there and Mr.
Kellogg has been there a number of times--and I always ask them this
question: If they found any trees where the top had outgrown the stock?
I have never seen an instance where the top of the tree put onto a
Virginia crab outgrew the Virginia. I have some in my garden now where
the union is so perfect it takes a man with good eyesight to see where
it is.
[Illustration: A.J. Philips, West Salem, Wis. Photo taken in his
eighty-second year.]
Mr. Brackett: If you had Virginia trees twelve years old would you
top-work them?
Mr. Philips: Yes, sir, out towards the end of the limbs.
Mr. Brackett: Suppose the limbs were too big on the stock you are going
to top-work, how would you do then?
Mr. Philips: I practice cutting off those larger limbs and letting young
shoots grow. Mr. Dartt did a good deal of top-working, and he top-worked
large limbs. I told him he was making an old fool of himself, but he
wouldn't believe it. He would cut off limbs as large as three inches and
put in four scions and at the end of two years they had only grown eight
inches each. I have put in one scion in a Virginia limb that was about
3/4-inch in diameter, and had it that season grow eight feet and one
inch. That is the best growth I ever had.
The reason that my attention was called to the Virginia as being
vigorous was, when I attended the meeting of this society about thirty
years ago--I think it was at Rochester--Mr. A. W. Sias, who was an active
nurseryman and one of the pioneers of this society, offered a premium of
$5.00 for the best growth of a crab apple tree, and then, in order to
win the money himself (which he did), he brought in some limbs of a
Virginia that were six feet long that grew in one season; and I figured
then that a tree that could make that growth in one season was a
vigorous tree, which it is. Nothing can outgrow it, and that was one
reason why I commenced using it.
Mr. Brackett: I have one trouble in grafting the Wealthy to the Hibernal
on account of its making that heavy growth. I lost some of them by
blight on that account.
Mr. Philips: Which was blighted, the Hibernal?
Mr. Brackett: No, the Wealthy made such a big growth that it blighted. I
cut the top back and put grafts in, and they made a good growth, but
they blighted. Did you have any trouble like that?
Mr. Philips: No, sir, I think my soil is different from yours. My soil
is of a poor order, a heavy clay, and it don't make the growth.
Mr. Brackett: How many of those large limbs could you cut off in one
year and graft?
Mr. Philips: Cut about half of the growth of the tree if not too large,
don't cut enough to weaken the tree too much. Next year cut the balance
off.
Mr. Crosby: In grafting, suppose you get scions from an Eastern state,
what time would you get those scions, say, from Maine; Maine is on a
parallel with Minnesota?
Mr. Philips: I prefer cutting scions in the fall before they freeze.
Mr. Crosby: How would you keep those scions?
Mr. Philips: I have tried a great many ways, in dirt and burying them in
the ground, but the best way to keep them is to put them in boxes and
put some leaves among them. Leaves will preserve them all winter if you
keep them moist enough, wet them a little once in ten days just to keep
them damp. Leaves are a more natural protection than anything else.
Don't you think so, Mr. Brackett?
Mr. Brackett: Yes, sir.
Mr. Crosby: What kind of a graft do you usually make?
Mr. Philips: I have put in some few whip-grafts but use the cleft-graft
with the larger limbs.
Mr. Wallace: Is the Patten Greening a good tree to graft onto?
Mr. Philips: It is better for that than most anything else where I live.
It is hardy and makes a good growth. If I had Patten Greenings, many of
them, I would top-work them. The apple is not a good seller where I
live.
Mr. Kellogg: What was the condition of that tree where Dartt put in four
scions?
Mr. Philips: They grew eight inches each in two years, then died. Those
scions were too weak to take possession of the big limb. It is like
putting an ox yoke onto a calf. They can't adapt themselves. They hadn't
strength to take hold of that limb and grow. That was a good
illustration. Put a graft on a small limb, and it will assimilate and
grow better than if you take a large one.
Mr. Brackett: Where you put in more than one scion in a limb, is it
feasible to leave more than one to grow?
Mr. Philips: No, not if they grow crotchy. I let them grow one year to
get firmly established and then I take off the lower one. I have trees
in my garden I have done that with, and you couldn't see the crotch. It
grows right over.
Mr. Brackett: I have seen a great many of them where both of them were
growing.
Mr. Philips: It makes a bad tree, as bad as a crotchy tree.
Mr. Kellogg: Isn't it better to dehorn it and get some new shoots to
graft?
Mr. Philips: Yes, sir, and if they are _very old_ the best way is to set
out new trees.
Mr. Crosby: In getting scions are there any distinguishing marks between
a vigorous scion and one not vigorous?
Mr. Philips: Nothing, only the general appearance. If I see a scion that
looks deficient I pass it by.
Mr. Erkel: Would it be practical to use water shoots for scions?
Mr. Philips: I should rather not. I have always had scions enough to
avoid using water shoots. They are an unnatural growth; I wouldn't use
them. Take a good healthy scion.
Mr. Kellogg: Would scions from bearing trees with the blossom buds on do
you any good?
Mr. Philips: Well, not with a blossom bud on; I wouldn't use such a
scion. Some people say if you cut your scions from a bearing tree they
will bear quicker, but I never saw any difference.
Inasmuch as this question has been asked a great many times by people,
what age to plant a tree, whether it is best to plant young trees or
trees four or five years old, I will say I am in favor of young trees,
and I am in favor of grafting a tree when it is young.
Mr. Brackett: Isn't that a general opinion in the West where they make a
business of planting large orchards?
Mr. Philips: I think so. I think that is the case.
Mrs. Cadoo: Can you graft onto a Martha crab and have success with that?
Mr. Philips: I never had very good success with the Martha crab; it
isn't vigorous enough.
Mrs. Cadoo: We had a tree twelve years and got seven apples.
Mr. Philips: Well, I think I got eight. (Laughter.) I believe with the
Martha crab if you will plant it where there are other crab trees around
it you get a pretty good crop, but not if you isolate it. I have an idea
it is not self-fertilizing. I think that is the trouble with the Martha.
It is a nice crab.
Mr. Brackett: You showed the difference in size there, those top-worked
and those not--don't you think that is because of cutting the top back?
You throw a heavy growth in there, which makes the fruit that much
larger?
Mr. Philips: Well, it might be.
Mr. Street: Have you had any experience in budding in August or first of
September on those trees?
Mr. Philips: Yes, sir, I do a little budding every year. Budding is a
hard thing to do, that is, it is a particular thing to get the bud
matured enough and still have sufficient sap to slip.
Mr. Street: Would you put it on the top or bottom side of the limb?
Mr. Philips: I would put it on the upper side of the limb every time,
but I would put it a little further from the trunk of the tree than I
would to graft for the reason, if the bud fails you have two chances,
and you have that same limb to cut off and graft next year.
[Illustration: Winesap apples top-worked on Peerless, grown at
Northfield, Minn.]
Mr. Johnson: I want to ask if it has a tendency to make the apple any
earlier? Virginia crab is an early bloomer, and would grafting it with
Wealthy make it bloom earlier?
Mr. Philips: I hardly think so. I think it is a great deal as it was
with the man that had the boots. Some told him his boots would wear
longer if he greased them, and some one else told him they would wear
longer if he did not. So he greased one and not the other, and the one
that he greased wore fifteen minutes longer than the other. (Laughter.)
I don't think it makes much difference. I tell you what it does do. You
graft a McMahon onto a Virginia and instead of having the McMahon its
usual color, you will get a very nice blush on it.
Mr. Erkel: Is the Duchess a good stock to graft onto?
Mr. Philips: I haven't found it very good. It is hardly vigorous enough
for a stock.
Mr. Erkel: You mentioned Patten's Greening a few minutes ago. Isn't that
considered a rather short-lived tree?
Mr. Philips: Not with me it hasn't been. I set some thirty years ago. I
never had a Patten's Greening injured with the cold. It is very hardy.
Mr. Street: How about the Brier's Sweet crab? I grafted some last year
and had a larger percentage of the scions live on those than on the
Hibernal.
Mr. Philips: You wouldn't get as good a growth afterwards. The scions on
the Virginia would grow better and have a better top. I don't think the
Brier's Sweet is as vigorous as Virginia.
Mr. M'Clelland: I grafted on 120 Hibernals this spring and got hardly
one failure.
Mr. Philips: You did good work.
Mr. M'Clelland: Made a growth of three to four feet, some of them.
Mr. Philips: That is good.
Mr. M'Clelland: Have you anything as good?
Mr. Philips: If I had Hibernals I would graft them, but if I had to set
something on purpose for grafting I would set Virginias. I have had
better success with that variety for stocks.
Mr. Kellogg: Too big a growth on the graft is liable to be injured in
the winter, is it not?
Mr. Philips: Too vigorous a growth on the tree is liable to get injured
in the winter anyway. I like to see a good growth. I like to see it grow
and then pinch it back in the fall. You can pinch it back a good deal
easier when it has made a good growth than to make it grow big enough.
Mr. Street: I would like to know whether we should force all of the
growth into the scion the first year where we graft on trees that have
been set two years.
Mr. Philips: One of the pleasures of doing top-working is to watch the
growth of the grafts. I did a good deal of that on Sunday. You might do
worse than communing with nature. You watch them same as you watch the
growth of anything else, and if you think the graft is growing too fast
let some of the shoots on the stock grow to take part of the sap, but if
you think it is growing too slow and these shoots are robbing it, cut
them off. I like a good growth on grafts; it looks more like doing
business.
Mr. Street: But the second year would you keep all of the growth in the
graft?
Mr. Philips: Yes, sir, the second year I would, and if it makes too
large a growth pinch off the end. I put in some for a neighbor this
season, and I go down and see to them every two weeks. If I thought they
made too much growth in August I pinched them back so as to make them
ripen up quicker. I don't like to have them grow too late; as Mr.
Kellogg said, frost will get them. (Applause.)
Spraying the Orchard.
HON. H. M. DUNLAP, SAVOY, ILLS.
(Continued from March No.)
Then just as soon as your bloom falls, just as soon as the blossom
petals fall, then you want to spray again. You should use arsenate of
lead along with your lime-sulphur in both sprayings, because your
arsenate of lead will take care of a great many insects that injure the
fruit. The first spraying, immediately before the bloom, with arsenate
of lead is for the curculio, what is called the Palmer worm, for canker
worm--if you have any of them--the tent caterpillar, the leaf roller and
various other insects that injure the fruit and the foliage. The spray
just immediately after the bloom in addition to fungous is a codling
moth spray. To get rid of the codling moth worm you use the arsenate of
lead. The codling moth egg hatches shortly after the bloom falls, and
the little worm instinctively goes into the blossom end of the apple,
because that is the only place it can enter the apple at that particular
time. Just why it does not enter on the side of the apple I can not say,
but there is a little fuzz on the outer side of the apple at that stage
of growth that perhaps prevents their getting in, and that fuzz as the
apple grows larger disappears, so a little later they can enter on the
side or at any other part of the apple that they choose.
[Illustration: Hon. H. M. Dunlap, Savoy, Ills.]
When the blossoms fall the apples stand upright on the tree, and the
little pointed leaves that are on the blossom end of the apples, that we
call the calyx, are all open, and at that time you can spray so as to
get the arsenate of lead on the inside. Within a week or ten days after
the bloom falls these sepals, or little leaf points, gradually close
together until they are all closed up tight, and after that you can't
get your spray in there. After the worm hatches he gets between the
little leaves of the calyx and goes on the inside of the apple and into
its center. You want to have your poison ready for Mr. Worm when he
enters the blossom end of the apple, and the more thoroughly and more
effectively you spray the better are the results.
It has been said that if you spray thoroughly at that time, that that is
the only spray you really need for the codling moth worm. I don't agree
with that, as there is always a second brood of worms. I use the
arsenate of lead along with the lime-sulphur for all these sprays,
before the bloom and after the bloom, and if you don't spray more than
three times you will be doing yourself a good service, and it will well
pay you. In some parts of the country they spray as high as seven or
eight times in the commercial orchards, but I would say in a farmer's
orchard three times would be enough, once before the bloom and twice
later, and you will notice the good results.
There are other sprays besides these, but none perhaps of any importance
to you up here except the winter spray for the San Jose scale, if you
have that, and I noticed one or two specimens out there that seemed to
have the scale upon them. That spray should be done either in the fall
or early winter or late winter while the trees are dormant. That has to
be put on of winter spray strength, using lime-sulphur or some of the
other San Jose scale sprays without the arsenate of lead, as you don't
need to use the lead with this spray.
Now, as I stated to start with, these remarks ought to be appropriate to
your needs and to make them so it would be a good deal better for me to
give you the opportunity of asking questions or of discussing this
question of spraying yourselves rather than for me to go into this
subject any further and not know just exactly what you would like to
listen to. If you have any questions to ask I would be glad to answer
them if I can.
Mr. Horton: What proportion of the lime-sulphur and arsenate of lead do
you use?
Mr. Dunlap: If we get the commercial brand of lime-sulphur we use it in
the proportion of three gallons of that commercial mixture to 100
gallons of water and for the arsenate of lead in the same spray tank at
same time we use four pounds of arsenate of lead to the 100 gallons.
Mr. Horton: Have you ever carried over lime-sulphur from one year to
another?
Mr. Dunlap: Yes, sir, we often do that, carry it over until the next
year. It wants to be kept where it will not freeze.
Mr. Horton: Is there much danger of evaporation so it would be too
strong to use next year?
Mr. Dunlap: Your barrel should be kept bunged tight.
Mr. Richardson: Mr. Dunlap fails to say anything about dormant sprays.
Don't you use dormant sprays?
Mr. Dunlap: I was just speaking about the dormant or winter spray. When
you spray in the winter time use lime-sulphur or scalicide.
Mr. Richardson: Another thing: I take a little exception to what Mr.
Dunlap says in advocating buying a spraying machine collectively in the
neighborhood, for the simple reason that it is necessary to spray at one
particular time, at the vital time just before the blossoms fall and at
the time they have fallen. We have found it almost impossible to do any
spraying for anybody except ourselves at that time. We talked that
matter over before we bought spraying machines.
You said you wondered whether there were any apples grown here
commercially. Out of our town we shipped this year eight car-loads of
apples. We have three power sprays in our orchard, and we talked that
matter over before we bought them, about buying collectively, and we
decided it was absolutely impossible to do it. I don't think it is
feasible for a small grower to depend on that kind of thing because he
may be disappointed. My theory is for each one to have his own sprayer,
large or small. Another thing, we find a pressure of 200 pounds is
better than spraying without that pressure; we get better results.
Mr. Dunlap: The gentleman misunderstood me. I said where you have just
small orchards you could do it collectively. Of course, I do not
advocate where a man has enough to have use for a spray machine for his
own orchard that he get one collectively. That would be a great mistake,
but where a man has only fifty trees in a neighborhood where there are
no big orchards, it would be better for a dozen or more to combine. If
you can get around with it in a week you will be all right but not
longer than that.
Mr. Richardson: I beg to differ with you just the same. I think if you
want to spray you must spray at the time; it might rain the next day,
and you might miss the whole season.
Mr. Dunlap: There are a good many people who don't like to go to the
expense of a spray machine just for fifty trees or 100 trees. If they
would combine with a few neighbors they would do some spraying work,
otherwise they wouldn't do any at all. If a man will buy a machine and
do his own spraying, why, that is certainly the best thing to do, but if
he won't do that it is better to combine with his neighbors and do it
than for none of them to do it. Community spraying is the best thing to
do if you have only small orchards.
Mr. Dyer: What pressure would you recommend in spraying for codling moth
where arsenate of lead is used?
Mr. Dunlap: You can do effective spraying all the way from sixty pounds
to 200 pressure. My preference is about 150 pounds. I have known
instances where considerable injury was done by using too high pressure.
We have sprayed at 225 pounds, but we have given that up. It is not as
good as from 150 to 175 pounds.
Mr. Dyer: I would like to know about what quantity of arsenate of lead
and lime-sulphur combined would you recommend? How much of each?
Mr. Dunlap: In 100 gallons of water we put three gallons of the
concentrated solution of lime-sulphur, as we buy it commercially, three
gallons to 100 gallons of water, that is, for the summer spray, and for
the arsenate of lead we use four pounds of arsenate of lead to the 100
gallons.
Mr. Dyer: In connection with that I would like to ask if you have used
or would recommend pulverized lime-sulphur?
Mr. Dunlap: I haven't used any.
Mr. Dyer: Do you know anything about it?
Mr. Dunlap: I think it is a more expensive proposition.
Mr. Dyer: I never used any myself. I thought perhaps that might work
better in connection with the arsenate of lead than the liquid.
Mr. Dunlap: I couldn't say, I have always followed the policy of never
departing from well-established lines of work until I am satisfied that
the new one is absolutely all right. I have seen in our state men
destroy the fruit from a forty or eighty acre orchard by taking up some
new thing that was highly advertised and looked very attractive. It is
not the same proposition, of course, but they tell us the devil comes in
very attractive form. He comes with a swallow-tail coat and a red
necktie and a buttonhole bouquet, and he looks very attractive. So it is
with a lot of these things advertised; they look attractive but for our
own good we ought to stick to the things we know and let the state
experiment station try them and report upon them.
Mr. Huestis: Does Mr. Dunlap attribute the general dropping of apples to
the scab fungus?
Mr. Dunlap: Not entirely.
Mr. Huestis: Do you think that it weakens the stem of the apples?
Mr. Dunlap: Yes, sir, the droppings of the apple is largely due to the
scab fungus. Of course, some of the dropping occurs as the result of too
much rain or too much dry weather, something of that kind, that is not
attributable to scab fungus.
Mr. Kellogg: Does spraying injure the bees?
Mr. Dunlap: I have never had anybody prove to me that the bees were
especially injured by spraying in the bloom. We do not practise spraying
in the bloom, that is, we spray when we have about one-third of the
bloom left on the trees. I have never had any injury, and we have
orchardists who have bees in their orchards, and they go on spraying the
same way. I do not believe bees are poisoned by the spray. Maybe I am
mistaken about it, but I have never seen any conclusive proof of the
bees being poisoned by the spray. It is possible they might collect it
and carry it into the hives and might poison the brood in the hive. I
don't know. I thank you. (Applause.)
The Value of Horticulture to the Farm.
MRS. CLARENCE WEDGE, ALBERT LEA.
It is pleasant to have a good roomy subject. E. S. Martin said in
Harper's Weekly as Christmas time approached, "There are just two places
in the world, and one of these is home." I will paraphrase it by saying,
"There are only two places in the world, and one of these is the farm."
So the value of horticulture to the farm is a large subject.
I passed a farm last summer that I shall never forget. It was quite
unattractive, I believe, so far as variety of contour was
concerned--quite level and commonplace. Right across the road from the
house was a half-grown windbreak of golden willow. Against that as a
background blazed out row upon row of the most brilliant flowers,
graduated down to the edge of the road, and extending as far as half a
city block or more. Think what a beautiful surprise for every one that
turned that corner. I think the occupants of the house must have enjoyed
sitting on their porch watching the people in the cars start with
pleasure and turn to look as they flew past. That farmer (or his wife)
knew something of the value of horticulture to the farm. Perhaps it was
a device of the farmer's wife to divert the gaze of the passer-by from
the porch, for you know we do stare shamelessly when we are on a joy
ride. At any rate, that farm would not be forgotten by any one that
passed it. The advertising that beauty spot gave his place would exceed
in value a column a week in the county paper, and not cost a tenth as
much.
Lowell remarks, "Nature with cheap means still works her wonders rare."
And there she stands with arms extended, offering the farmer all the
wealth and beauty he will put forth his hand to take.
Last fall I passed another farm down in Iowa, whose owner had tried to
make his place conspicuous by putting a concrete wall and gateway in
front of his house, and making lavish use of white paint in decorating
his buildings and grounds. He succeeded, but I cannot help thinking that
if he had put the money that useless concrete work cost into shrubbery
and vines, it would have made his place twice as attractive. I dislike
pretentious adornments to the farm, especially where the rest of the
place doesn't measure up to them. Like Senator Blaine, who, at the time
the Queen Anne style of architecture became popular, on being asked why
he did not have his old fashioned house Queen Anned, replied that he
did not like to see a Queen Anne front and a Mary Anne back.
A farm home can be something better than a city park. One of the
beautiful things that I shall always remember about Berlin was a way
they had of bordering their parks and the enclosures of public
buildings. They take tree-roses trimmed up to the height of a fence with
a hemispherical head. Then they plant them around the edge of their
grounds a rod or two apart, festoon chains from the top of one rose
stalk to the top of the next, and where the chain touches the ground
midway between them, they plant a little ivy which climbs up and
conceals the chain and gives the appearance of festoons of vines between
the rose trees. I thought them so lovely that when I married a
nurseryman I thought I would persuade him to do something of that kind
on our grounds, but he has convinced me that while that is all right for
a city park, it would not be in good taste in a country place. It would
look too artificial. The charm of a country place is its natural beauty.
For the same reason we do not have any trimmed evergreens or hedges on
our place. Moreover, the man who makes his living from the soil finds
the upkeep of those decorations too pottering, and if he had money to
hire it done he would rather put it into his automobile or into other
improvements.
The natural beauty that can be set about the farm home will become it
better. Wild grape vines or woodbine draping the wire fences tempt the
eye of the passer-by to linger, and they cost nothing. Once planted,
they are there for a life-time. A walnut tree in a fence corner will
grow to a fair size in ten years, in twenty it becomes a land-mark. A
catalpa of a hardy strain will do the same thing in about half the time
in our part of the state. Take an elder from your woods and plant it in
an angle of your house, and it makes a luxurious growth that rivals the
castor bean of the city park and does not need to be replaced the next
spring.
It certainly pays to go in for some kind of horticultural adornments for
the farm. They are so easy and inexpensive to obtain and make such a
happy difference to the farmer's family and to all who pass his way.
When you have a specially prosperous year on the farm, save a little of
the surplus for new trees or shrubs.
But I remember passing another farm, all of twenty-five years ago, where
horticulture may once have been of value to the farmer but had become a
burden to him. There was a dense grove of willow down at one side,
through which the drive leading to the barn was kept wet and muddy by
the shade. On the other side rose a high grove of trees casting a gloomy
shade on the house and poultry buildings, and a few odd shrubs straggled
along the roadside and gave the place an unkempt look. Of all things,
have sunshine! City people often have to sacrifice it, but no farmer is
too poor to have it in plenty. Don't let your trees tyrannize over you.
It is, perhaps, unnecessary to mention the value of a windbreak to a
farm. If it has not been provided by nature it is an absolute necessity
to plant one as a matter of economy. It saves fuel inside and gives
comfort outside. The cows give more milk, and all the animals put on
more fat, if they have a sheltered place to take their airing. It is
also a good thing to set some bushes or small spruces along the
foundation wall of the house on the windy side. They are ornamental in
summer, and in winter they catch the snow and tuck the house in against
the wind.
When it comes to the garden, the "Value of Horticulture to the Farm"
depends largely upon the farmer's wife, for a garden needs mothering as
well as fathering. Few farmers have time to do more for a garden than
the actual labor of plowing, planting, and cultivating, and digging the
root vegetables in the fall. Somebody must watch the garden, go through
it nearly every day, poison the cabbage worms and potato bugs, keep the
asparagus and cucumbers picked, watch for the maturing of peas and
beans, and dispose of any surplus either by canning or sending to
market. To visit the garden only when you wish to gather some particular
vegetable is like milking the cow only when you happen to want some
milk.
A garden well tended puts the farm far ahead of the city home for
luxuries of the table and cuts the cost of living in two. Fresh
vegetables and cream are expensive articles in the city, inaccessible to
any but the well-to-do, but it does not take a very thrifty farmer to
have them, providing he has a thrifty wife. But to be a real helpmeet
she must have an overall skirt and a pair of rubber boots. Then the dewy
mornings will be as much of a pleasure to her as to her husband, and she
can do her garden work in the cool of the day.
A garden is especially valuable to a farm, because the farm is usually
somewhat isolated and must depend more or less upon its own resources
for freshness and variety of food. A good garden on the farm will almost
abolish the tin can, and strike off a large part of the grocer's bill,
to say nothing of making the farmer live like a king.
The Strawberry Weevil.
As strawberries are about to blossom, it would be well to keep a
look-out for a shortage in the number of blossoms, for this is the first
indication of the work of the strawberry weevil. Because of the
diminutive size of the insect, few are acquainted with it, so that the
shortage of blossoms or failure of the crop is often attributed to
frost, hail, climatic conditions or some other agency. Upon close
examination, the buds will be found to be severed from the stem, some
lying beneath on the ground, others being still attached by a few shreds
in a drooping manner. Further examination around the buds may reveal a
small snout beetle, which is the cause of the injury, it being about
one-tenth inch long and marked with two dark spots on each wing cover.
The females oviposit in the buds, and then cut them off when oviposition
is completed, in order to protect the larva within, which later develops
to the adult beetle.
[Illustration: Showing beetle of strawberry weevil and the damage it
inflicts.]
The strawberry weevil has been especially injurious around the vicinity
of Hopkins the past summer. It was not uncommon to find fields with from
forty to ninety per cent. of the buds cut, and as the earliest and most
mature buds, which would be the first to ripen, are among those cut,
the losses inflicted may be quite serious. The weevil not only injures
the cultivated strawberry, but is found to attack the buds of the red
raspberry, dewberry and wild strawberry. It is a singular fact that only
the staminate varieties are injured, especially those which furnish
considerable pollen, since this constitutes the chief food supply of
both larvae and adults.
_Life History._--The weevil appears as soon as the buds begin to form
and soon after deposits an egg within the bud. She then immediately
crawls down the stem and proceeds to sever the bud. The eggs hatch
within five or six days, and in about three or four weeks the footless
grubs become full-grown, coming out as adults about five days later.
This new brood, upon emerging, will attack the leaves, making numerous
small holes on the under surface, soon after picking time. As early as
August 25 the beetles were found to go into hibernation last summer,
within the strawberry fields, being found especially among the dead
leaves. The older beds were found to be more seriously infested because
of the fact that they wintered over in the small fields.
_Control._--Since the weevils do not disperse readily, and since they
hibernate within the fields, the one crop system and the plowing up of
the beds immediately after picking would probably do away with the
injury entirely. This one crop system could be followed for about two
years, when it might be advisable to return to the two crop system if
the weevils have disappeared.
On April 18, 1916, the weevils were located by the writer underneath the
straw, and beginning to move about. From observations last year, it
would be advisable to remove the straw from one or two rows in order to
hasten the maturity of the buds, and keep the straw on the remainder of
the patch in order to force the weevils to the uncovered row. They could
then be destroyed either by plowing under or burning.
Some recent experiments by Prof. Headlee, State Entomologist of New
Jersey, appear to have been successful against the strawberry weevil. A
dust spray of a mixture of arsenate of lead one pound, and sulphur one
pound, was used as a repellent, giving almost perfect protection. The
material was applied twice, April 30th and May 6th.
The writer will be glad to co-operate with the growers, if they find the
presence of the weevil in their strawberry beds.--S. Marcovitch, Section
of Economic Entomology, Division of Economic Zoology, University Farm.
Secretary's Annual Report, 1915.
A. W. LATHAM, SECRETARY.
Twenty-five years is a long time to look forward to, but it does not
seem so long when you look back, and yet when I review the changes that
have taken place in the Horticultural Society since I assumed the
position of secretary twenty-five years ago the way seems long indeed.
In the year 1890 very nearly all of the old members of the society,
those who had contributed their time and money to bring it into
existence and keep it alive for its first twenty-four years were still
on the membership roll and doing loyal work for the association. As year
by year passed these veterans of the association one by one dropped away
until at the present time the number of those in that class who are
still with us here are so few in number that it becomes almost a
vanishing point. In the year 1897 a photograph was taken of "ten
veterans of horticulture," a copy of which is hanging in the secretary's
office, and of these ten the only one now with us is that loyal friend
and supporter of the society, Seth H. Kenney, of Waterville, now eighty
years of age and too feeble to attend this meeting. Going back to a date
still earlier, covering the first few years of the association, the only
working members of the society as far as the secretary recalls are J. M.
Underwood, C. M. Loring and himself. This is the order of nature, and we
should remember only with gratitude and affection those who have served
before us and with us and passed on.
At the close of this, the forty-ninth year of the society, we find the
membership roll somewhat larger in number than at any previous period in
its history, there being on the annual roll 3,079 members, and on the
life roll 311 members, of whom 30 are honorary. There have been added to
this roll the past year one honorary life member, Mr. Lycurgus R. Moyer,
of Montevideo, and 20 paid life members. The number of deaths appearing
on this life roll during the past year is fortunately only two, Mr. E. A.
Webb, editor and manager of "The Farmer," who had been a member since
1906, and V. A. Neil, of Minneapolis, whose death occurred prior to the
1914 annual meeting but had not been spoken of heretofore.
As usual a considerable number of sources have contributed towards this
large membership roll. The auxiliary societies, of which there are 10
have brought upon this roll in all 878 members. One new auxiliary
society has been added to the number this year, organized in St. Paul
under the name of "Horticultural, Poultry and Improvement Association of
West St. Paul." An auxiliary society maintained at Crookston for a
number of years seems to be no longer in existence and should probably
be taken from the list of auxiliaries. The farmers' institutes have not
contributed as largely to the membership roll as some previous years, on
account in part of the fact that the work heretofore done by farmers'
institutes is being done in farmers' clubs and schoolhouse meetings of
farmers, which does not offer as good an opportunity for securing
memberships, though the service to the cause of horticulture is probably
even better. Through this source the society has received this year 146
memberships. Many of the nurserymen have contributed liberally to the
membership this year, memberships that were given by them to their
customers in accordance with an arrangement made with this office. In
all from this source have come upon our roll 172 memberships.
The State Fruit-Breeding Farm continues to be the object of permanent
central interest in our association. Unfortunately the frosts of last
spring interfered with the fruiting of the thousands of trees which
under other circumstances would have borne fruit, many of them for the
first time, so that practically few advances have been made the past
year in breeding new tree fruits except in preparation for the future.
In small fruits it was different, and the list of these worthy of trial
which are standing the climate well is a growing one. Our membership are
exceedingly interested in these new fruits as manifested by the large
number called for through the distribution of plant premiums. In all
there were sent out this year 2,594 lots of these plant premiums.
There is a growing interest in top-grafting late-keeping varieties of
apples as indicated by the large number of calls made on this office for
scions for this purpose the past season.
The seedling contests continue and the interest in growing seedlings
continues as well, there having been a call during the past year from
this office for a considerable number of packages of apple seeds by our
membership.
So far no apple seedling has appeared to which we could award the $1,000
prize offered by the society for a winter apple. Referring to the
seedling contest inaugurated some years ago, the first $100 premium in
connection with which should have been awarded three years ago, it
appears that the time limit for the fruitage of these seedlings was
made too short. The fourth premium comes due at this meeting, but no
claimants have as yet come forward for any of these premiums. Probably
it will be thought a wise thing to do to continue these awards during
later years when these seedling trees will come into bearing.
The "acre orchard" contest entered into a year ago last spring in which
there 35 entries finally materialized into a smaller number than
anticipated, reports having come into the office last year from 23
contestants. The reports for the current year are now being received but
not all at hand.
The executive board provided conditions under which these orchards
should be conducted and the prizes awarded, which conditions will be
found published in the 1914 report of the society on page 45.
Trial stations are continuing their work and are being used principally
now as far as new material is concerned in testing of fruits from the
State Fruit-Breeding Farm. To this list has been added the government
station at Mandan under the management of A. W. Peterson, reports from
which point will also be made to our association from time to time, as
well as from the trial stations connected with University Farm, all of
which stations have been added also to our society list.
Arrangements are being perfected for the purpose of extending to our
membership opportunity to use the books from the society library, which
is now increased to about 3,300 volumes. This list has been published in
the 1915 report of the society, and we shall be prepared early in the
year to send out books to all who desire them according to the
regulations, which will be published in an early number of our monthly.
The society is maintaining its card indexes and adding year by year to
the amount of material which they represent. One of these cards indexes
contains the names and titles of all the articles published in the
society's annual reports and is indexed also with the names of the
writers, the index being prepared in this double manner. Another card
index contains the list of books in our library, and the third one,
indexed by subjects, the bulletins on horticulture coming from the
various state experiment stations and the U.S. Department of
Agriculture. These indexes are invaluable for their various purposes and
may be used by the membership at their volition.
The society maintained an office at the late state fair, at which a
considerable number of memberships were received and a large number of
members met by the secretary and other officers of the society. We
believe this was an excellent move and should be continued in the
future.
As to the horticultural exhibit at the state fair, while the secretary
has no official connection with it, it should be spoken of as a very
satisfactory exhibition indeed and well handled. The building as a
whole, covering all branches of horticultural work, was a real credit to
the various interests represented and well deserves all the time and
expense lavished upon it.
Probably the most important event of the year with which the secretary
was officially connected was the effort made to secure an appropriation
from the state legislature in session last winter for the construction
of a building for the uses of the Horticultural Society. The building
committee, with which the secretary served, held a number of meetings
with members of the Board of Regents and various committees at the state
legislature, at which a considerable number of our membership besides
those regularly on the committee were in attendance and took part in
appeals in the interest of the building. The secretary's service in this
connection was largely the effort made to enlist the co-operation of the
membership in the way of getting them to write letters or talk
personally with the members of the legislature upon the subject, and an
appeal was sent out through the mails to all of our membership with this
object in view. The response was a most liberal one, far beyond our
expectations. Some of the members of the legislature received over
thirty letters from their constituents asking their support to this
measure. There was not a single member of the legislature who did not
receive some communications about this matter. In all there were sent in
this manner to members of the legislature 1,594 letters. While our
efforts to secure this building failed, it was, as we believe, largely
on account of the prevailing and unusual sentiment for economy which
permeated the legislature to an extraordinary degree, and we have
reasonable assurance that a similar effort with the next legislature
will bring us success. In regard to this matter the chairman of the
building committee speaks more fully.
The financial report follows and to this your attention is respectfully
requested.
Secretary's Financial Report, 1915.
A. W. LATHAM, SECRETARY.
RECEIPTS.
Balance $91.62
G. W. Strand, Treasurer 685.96
Life membership fees 190.00
Books sold 14.10
Cuts sold 7.50
Banquet tickets sold at 75c each 138.00
Garden Flower Society, account premiums 65.00
Annual fees, 1914 8.00
Annual fees, 1915 3,004.00
Annual fees, 1916 263.00
---------
$4,467.18
DISBURSEMENTS.
Postage $717.33
Office rent 420.00
Telephone 55.45
Premium books 113.61
Office supplies 28.36
Plant premiums 105.14
Assistance in office 719.21
Printing 247.16
Expenses annual meeting, 1914 90.73
Expenses annual meeting, 1915 76.84
Expenses summer meeting, 1915 14.64
Banquet 152.75
Reporting annual meeting 174.99
Expenses vice-presidents 29.17
Expenses superintendents, trial stations 50.59
Assistance annual meeting 1914 100.50
Expenses delegates, etc., meeting, 1914 224.07
Expenses delegates to other societies 30.29
Discounts, membership fees, auxiliary societies, etc. 825.54
Examining officers' books 10.00
Treasurers salary, 1914 25.00
Collecting checks 10.00
Plans of horticultural building 40.00
Officers' bonds, 1915 15.00
Forestry Association 50.00
Insurance on library sundries 8.00
Sundries 20.68
Balance 112.13
---------
$4,467.18
GENERAL STATEMENT, DECEMBER 1, 1915.
Balance in Hennepin County Bank December 1, 1914 $177.38
Interest in 1915 $11.24
---------
Total $188.62
Loring Fund, including interest 140.60
Balance with secretary 112.13
Balance with treasurer 4,906.00
---------
Total $5,347.35
SUMMER MEETING, 1916.
Premium List, Summer Meeting, 1916.
No Duplicating of Varieties Permitted.
OUT-DOOR ROSES.
1st 2d 3d 4th
prem. prem. prem. prem.
Collection--three blooms of each named
variety, to be shown in separate vases $6.00 $4.00 $2.00 $1.00
Collection of named varieties--three
blooms of each, in separate vases, amateurs
only 6.00 4.00 2.00 1.00
Three named varieties, white--each variety
in a separate vase, three blooms
of each, each bloom on a separate stem 2.00 1.00 .50
Three named varieties, pink--each variety
in a separate vase, three blooms of each,
each bloom on a separate stem 2.00 1.00 .50
Three named varieties, red--each variety
in a separate vase, three blooms of each,
each bloom on a separate stem 2.00 1.00 .50
Collection of Rugosa and Rugosa Hybrids--each
variety (consisting of one
cluster of blooms on a single stem) in a
separate vase 2.00 1.00 .50
Most beautiful rose in vase 1.00
Largest rose in vase 1.00
Seedling rose to be shown by the originator.
(Not previously exhibited in
competition.) Bronze medal donated by
the American Rose Society.
Basket of out-door roses and foliage, arranged
for effect without ribbon, not to
exceed twelve inches in diameter 3.00 2.00 1.00
The following named varieties of roses to be entered separately and
shown in separate vases, three to five blooms in each vase.
Prince Camile deRohan, General Jacqueminot, Margaret Dickson, M. P.
Wilder, Jules Margottin, Magna Charta, Paul Neyron, Madam Gabriel
Luizet, Baroness Rothschild, Anna de Diesbach, Ulrich Brunner, John
Hopper, Rosa Rugosa (pink and white), Baron deBonstetten, Karl Druski,
Madam Plantier, Grus an Teplitz.
Each, 1st prem., 75 cents; 2nd prem., 50 cents; 3rd prem., 25 cents.
PEONIES.
1st 2d 3d 4th
prem. prem. prem. prem.
Vase of Festiva Maxima, 6 blooms $2.00 $1.00 $0.50
" " flesh or light pink " " " " "
" " medium or dark pink " " " " "
" " white " " " " "
" " red " " " " "
Collection--three blooms of each named
variety in separate vases $6.00 $4.00 $2.00 $1.00
Collection--three blooms of each named
variety in separate vases, amateurs only 6.00 4.00 2.00 1.00
Seedling peony, three blooms 3.00 2.00 1.00 .50
Collection--one bloom of each variety,
shown each in a separate vase; for amateurs
owning no more than ten varieties 2.00 1.00 .50
ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS.
1st prem. 2d prem. 3d prem. 4th prem.
Vase of Arabis $1.50 $1.00 $0.50
" " Canterbury Bells " " "
" " Dielytra " " "
" " Delphinium " " "
" " Evening primrose (Oenothera) " " "
" " Forget-me-not " " "
" " Foxglove " " "
" " Gailardias " " "
" " Grass pinks " " "
" " Iceland poppies " " "
" " Iris " " "
" " Lilies " " "
" " Lupine " " "
" " Nasturtiums " " "
" " Oriental poppies " " "
" " Pansies " " "
" " Perennial coreopsis " " "
" " Pyrethrum " " "
" " Shasta daisies " " "
" " Sweet peas " " "
" " Sweet William " " "
Collection--named perennials, in separate
vases $6.00 $4.00 $2.00 $1.00
Collection of annuals and perennials in
separate vases (not to exceed 12) by
amateurs who have never taken premiums
on flowers 4.00 3.00 2.00 1.00
Vase of flowers grown and exhibited by
child 2.00 1.00 .50
Vase of any kind of flowers not named
in this list. (An exhibitor may make
any number of entries desired under this
head) 2.00 1.00 .50
Vase of flowers arranged for artistic
effect 1.50 1.00 .50
Basket of outdoor-grown flowers, arranged
by exhibitor 3.00 2.00 1.00
STRAWBERRIES.
One quart of each variety, to be shown on plate, not in box.
1st prem. 2d prem. 3d prem. 4th prem.
Collection (not less than six varieties) $5.00 $4.00 $3.00 $2.00
Collection of three named varieties 3.00 2.00 1.00 .50
The following varieties of strawberries to be entered separately:
1st prem. 2d prem. 3d prem. 4th prem.
Bederwood, Dunlap, Crescent, Splendid,
Clyde, Warfield, Lovett, Enhance, Glen
Mary, Haverland, Progressive, Superb,
Americus, each $1.00 $0.75 $0.50 $0.25
Best named variety not included in the
above list 2.00 1.00 .50
Seedling, originated by exhibitor 3.00 2.00 1.00
GARDEN HELPS
Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society
Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So.
Minneapolis.
*Notices of our May, June, July and August meetings will be mailed to
members. Being exhibition meetings, the dates will depend upon weather
conditions.
It is suggested that in cases where plants have not already been
exchanged, the informal exhibition of spring flowers, our May meeting,
be also "Exchange Day," and that plants for exchange be brought to that
meeting.
A SHAKESPEARE GARDEN.
So wide an interest in the commemoration of the tercentennial
celebration of Shakespeare's death has been awakened by the "Drama
League of America" that there will be many old English gardens planted
in 1916,--gardens containing as many as possible of those flowers
mentioned in his plays.
Not all of these many flowers and shrubs could be grown in our climate,
some mentioned, such as nettles, burdocks, plantains and other weeds,
would be entirely out of place in a garden, soon overrunning it. It must
be remembered, too, that in Shakespeare's time herbs and wild flowers
were cultivated in most gardens, that many considered beautiful then are
now almost forgotten, and that some have been so far surpassed by their
improved hybrids, the originals would not now be cultivated.
We have not attempted, therefore, to include all of the flowers so
lovingly mentioned by the poet, but have used only those that will prove
beautiful and hardy in Minnesota, making a planting that will prove,
with proper care, permanent. Were each plant labeled with its proper
quotation the garden would prove much more interesting, e.g., "There's
rosemary, that's for remembrance--" Hamlet, marking the plant of that
name.
_Annuals._--Gillyflowers (Ten weeks' stocks); Love in Idleness (Pansy,
Viola tricolor); Mallow (Lavatera splendens); Marigold (Calendula
officinalis); Poppy (Somniferum, Opium poppy).
_Trees._--Hemlock, Hawthorne.
_Vines._--Honeysuckle, Scarlet Trumpet.
_Bulbs._--Scilla Nutans (Hyacinthus nonscriptus); Daffodils; Saffron
(Crocus santious); Crown Imperial (Frittilaria Imperialis); Lily,
Candidum, Turk's Cap (Scarlet Martagon), Orange Lily (Croseum),
Spectabile, Tigrinum.
_Herbs._--Balm (Lemon Balm); Camomile (Anthemis); Caraway; Dian's Bud
(Wormwood, Artemisia Absinthium); Fennel (Foeniculum officinalis);
Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis); Lavender (Lavendula vera); Marjoram
(Origanum vulgare); Mint; Milfoil (Yarrow); Parsley; Rosemary
(Rosmarinus officinalis); Rue (Ruta graveoleons); Savory; Thyme (1,
Thymus vulgaris, 2, Thymus Serpyllum).
_Perennials._--Aconite (Napellus); Balm (Bee-balm); Brake; Carnation
(Bizarre Dianthus caryophyllus); Clover (Crimson Trifolium incarnatus);
Columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris); Cowslip (Primula veris); Crowflower
(Ragged Robin, Lychnis floscuculi); Cuckoo Buds (Butter cups, Ranunculus
acris); Daisies (Bellis perennis); Eryngium M. (Sea Holly); Flax; Flower
de luce (Iris Germanica, blue); Fumitory (Dicentra spectabilis; Bleeding
Heart); Harebell (Campanula rotundifolia); Larksheel (Delphinium elatum,
Bee Larkspur); Peony; Pinks (Dianthus Plumarius); Violet (Viola
Odorata).
_Roses._--Brier (Eglantine Rose), Provencal (Cabbage Rose), Musk,
Damask, White Provence, York and Lancaster.
For appropriate quotations to mark each flower the little book,
"Shakespeare's Garden," by J.H. Bloom, will be found very helpful. Our
other authorities have been Biesley and L. Grindon, all of which are in
the Public Library.
MRS. N. S. SAWYER.
MRS. E. W. GOULD.
ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTES
By F. L. WASHBURN, Professor of Entomology, University of
Minnesota.
SUGGESTIONS TO PARTIES PLANNING TO PURCHASE NURSERY STOCK.
It may be quite out of place to offer any suggestions along this line to
readers of this magazine, and yet some buyers may find help in the
following:
For evident reasons it pays to buy Minnesota stock where possible, stock
which has been tried out and found to be hardy, rather than purchase new
varieties, glowingly described in catalogues. Always buy from an
inspected nursery.
For evident reasons it pays to buy from nurseries near at hand, so that
the time elapsing from the shipping of the trees or shrubs and the
planting is small.
Further, it is always desirable, if possible, to buy from the nurseryman
himself, a responsible party, rather than from an agent. It is further
very desirable to personally pick out your own stock in a visit to the
nursery.
When the goods are received, see that they bear an inspection
certificate for the current year. The plants should be in good condition
and show that the roots are protected from air and wrapped in moist
packing material. The condition of the received goods indicates the
carefulness of the nurseryman or the contrary. Do not allow trees or
shrubs to lie neglected after being received, where the roots will dry
out. If you are not ready to plant they should be at once heeled in,
first divesting them of their wrappings.
If any injurious insects, like scales or fungus-looking growths, are
found on the trees, the same should be reported to the Experiment
Station. After planting the trees and shrubs, they should receive the
best of care in regard to cultivation.
Finally, refuse to accept any raspberry or blackberry plants showing
crown gall on roots or crowns.
* * * * *
CROWN GALL ON RASPBERRIES BLACKBERRIES.
All the nurserymen are able to recognize crown gall, and whatever we may
think regarding its effect or lack of effect upon apple, we know by
personal observation that it may and does cause the death of
raspberries. This disease of course is, unfortunately, very
common--almost universally present in our nurseries. The public,
generally, are so well aware of its injurious effect upon canes that
they are indignant when any such stock is received from nurseries. It
behooves all nurserymen, therefore, for the sake of their own business
interests if nothing else, to be extremely careful that no diseased
stock of any kind is sent to patrons.
* * * * *
THE DESTRUCTION OF A CARLOAD OF DISEASED POTATOES.
The State Entomologist, by virtue of being a collaborator with and agent
for the United States Horticultural Board, supervised the destruction by
burning of 403 sacks of potatoes, seven per cent. of which, according to
the testimony of our Plant Pathology Division, were infested with
powdery scab. The Great Northern Railroad, which had brought the
potatoes from Canada, were given the choice by Federal authorities,
either to return the potatoes to Canada or destroy them by burning,
under our supervision. They chose the latter procedure and the use of
the Minneapolis crematory was secured for this purpose. Ninety sacks of
this same shipment which were illegally unloaded at Casselton, N. Dak.,
were buried by North Dakota authorities. It is to be hoped that this
disease does not find its way into the potato belt in the Red River
Valley.
NOTES ON PLANT PESTS.
Prepared by Section of Insect Pests, A. G. RUGGLES, and by
Section of Plant Diseases, E. C. STAKMAN, University Farm.
The first real spraying of the apple orchard should be given just as the
center bud of the flower cluster begins to show pink. The material to
use in the spraying compound is lime-sulphur (1 to 40) plus arsenate of
lead, 1-1/2 pounds of the powder, or three pounds of the arsenate of
paste to fifty gallons of the made-up lime-sulphur. If done properly
this will get the scab of the apple, blossom blight or the brown rot in
the plum, and is the most important spray for plum pocket. The arsenate
of lead in the mixture will control the young of leaf eating insects and
precocious plum curculios.
The second most important spraying of the year is given within a week
after the blossoms fall, the same spraying compound being used. This
spraying kills many of the germinating spores of such things as apple
scab and also is the important spray for codling worm as well as for the
plum curculio and for leaf eating insects.
Watch carefully for the hatching of plant lice eggs. The ideal time to
spray for these is just after hatching, and before the young lice become
hidden in the bud scales or in the curl of the leaves. The spraying
material to use at this time is a sulphate of nicotine.
Plow the plum orchard as soon as possible in order to turn under mummied
plums, which are responsible for much of the primary infection of brown
rot.
Plowing the apple orchard early to turn under the old leaves is also
essential in preventing scab spreading to the flower stalks.
Cultivate the vineyard in order to turn under the mummies. Practice
clean cultivation from the very beginning in order to help control black
rot and downy mildew. If the rot or mildew was very bad in the previous
years, early spraying with the Bordeaux mixture 4-4-50 is very
important.
Keep the radishes, cauliflowers, and cabbages covered with a poison
spray from April 30 to May 20 to prevent the ravages of the cabbage
maggot. This should be applied once a week in fair weather, and twice a
week in rainy weather. The spray is made as follows:
Lead arsenate, three-fourths ounce; New Orleans molasses, one-half pint;
water, one gallon.
Look over the seedling cabbages carefully and destroy all which show any
sign of wilting or rotting.
Cut out apple twigs badly injured by the buffalo tree hopper and burn
them immediately.
Watch for plant lice on lettuce in cold frames. To combat the insects
the plants should be sprayed with nicofume liquid, one teaspoonful to a
gallon of water.
BEE-KEEPER'S COLUMN
Conducted by FRANCIS JAGER, Professor of Apiculture, University
Farm, St. Paul.
COMB HONEY, EXTRACTED HONEY, AND INCREASE.
The practical beekeeper must decide at the beginning of the honey season
whether he wishes to produce extracted honey, comb honey or merely to
increase the number of his colonies. The manner of management of his
apiary will depend upon such decision. At any rate a modern outfit, pure
bred colonies in modern ten or eight frame hives, is required for
successful beekeeping no matter in what line of bee industry he may feel
inclined to engage.
For production of extracted honey the ten frame hive is to be preferred.
Bees are less inclined to swarm in a ten frame hive, and two ten frame
supers as a rule will be required where three eight frame supers would
otherwise be necessary.
In successful extracted honey production swarming may be reduced to a
minimum if during the dandelion and fruit trees honey flow, and in the
beginning of white clover flow, once a week an empty drawn comb be
inserted into the middle of the brood nest. As soon as the brood chamber
has eight frames of brood the queen excluder is added and an extracting
super added filled with white extracting combs. If the beekeeper does
not care to raise his extracted honey in snow white combs only, the
excluder may be omitted, but the result will be that the queen will lay
eggs throughout the whole hive, thus rendering extracting difficult on
account of brood present. When raising extracted honey on a large scale
two extracting supers may suffice for each colony. When the one next to
the brood chamber is filled it is extracted at once, the top one taking
its place next to the brood. The extracted super when empty is then
given back to the bees and placed on top. When the second super is
filled the process is repeated. This process of extracting honey
requires a period of four or five weeks. All supers are removed at the
end of the honey flow. The last full super, however, should not be
extracted but saved for the feeding of light colonies in the fall and
spring.
The easier way to produce extracted honey is to have enough supers, say
three or four for each colony. The first is added during the dandelion
or fruit blossom flow as soon as the colony is strong enough to readily
enter into it. When this super is nearly full and the combs can be seen
through the top bars to whiten, another super is added next to the brood
chamber, and the partly filled super is raised. When this second super
begins to get well filled, a third and a fourth super is added on top.
In the latitude of Minneapolis it is not advisable to insert a super
next to brood chambers after July 4th, or two weeks before the end of
the honey flow, because such procedure would result in a large amount of
uncapped honey.
Comb honey should not be produced where the honey flow is slow and
intermittent. Weak colonies will not produce comb honey profitably. In
making up supers only A 1 sections should be used, with full sheets of
extra thin foundation and three-eighths inch bottom starters of thin
foundation. Care should be taken to fasten the foundation very solidly,
else heat and weight of bees will cause it to drop. One or more bait
sections should be used in the first comb honey super to induce the bees
to enter into it more readily. Bait sections are the half finished,
unmarketable sections of the previous season. One to four are used near
the center of each super.
(To be continued in June No.)
[Illustration: THE HOME OF THE LADY SLIPPER--MOCCASIN FLOWER.
THE MINNESOTA STATE FLOWER.]
While it is not the intention to publish anything in this
magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be
remembered that the articles published herein recite the
experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must
always be noted in estimating their practical value.
THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST
Vol. 44 JUNE, 1916 No. 6
The State Flower and State Flag of Minnesota.
E. A. SMITH, VICE PRES. JEWELL NURS. CO., LAKE CITY.
The material in this paper has been gathered from several sources, part
of which has never before been published. It is presented not so much in
the spirit of criticism as it is in the spirit of making the best of a
mistake which the writer believes occurred when the moccasin flower was
designated as the state flower of Minnesota.
Last spring an acquaintance of mine was rambling through the woods and
came across the Cypripedium, or the Moccasin flower, or the Lady
slipper, the state flower of Minnesota. He sent me a few specimens.
Although I had lived in the state of Minnesota for a number of years,
this was the first time that I had ever seen the state flower or known
anything about it. The incident set me to thinking, and I went to work
to find out what I could about this flower. I herewith present that
information as briefly as possible.
There are forty-one states in the Union that have a state flower. Other
states have the matter under consideration. This fact alone would
indicate that a state flower is of some importance as an emblem, or it
would not be so generally considered by the various states. In most
instances the flower was selected by a vote of the public school
scholars of the respective states. The vote was then submitted to the
state legislature and a resolution adopted making the state flower
legal. I submit to you the question: Are school children qualified to
choose a flower as an emblem of the state? Do they understand the
conditions required in the state and the purpose of the selection
sufficiently well to enable them to select intelligently? Do the
children in your school know what flower is common in the northern part
of the state as well as in the southern part of the state?
In Minnesota, however, the state flower was not chosen by the school
children of the state, but upon petition of the Woman's Auxiliary Board
of World's Fair Managers a resolution was introduced into the senate
February 4th, 1893, by the late Senator W.B. Dean, providing that the
wild Lady Slipper, or the Moccasin flower, Cypripedium calceolus, be
accepted and the same designated and adopted as the state flower, or the
floral emblem of the state of Minnesota. This resolution was also
adopted in the house the same day. A few years later upon petition of
the Nature Club of Minneapolis the variety was changed to the Reginae or
Spectabile, variety.
[Illustration: The Lady Slipper--Minnesota State Flower. Somewhat under
size.]
The mystery of the selection in this state is, why was a flower chosen
which is not common to any part of the state? We therefore have a state
flower, beautiful in itself, but without special appeal to the people
because it is comparatively unknown.
There are about forty species of the Cypripedium belonging to the north
temperate zone. Several of these species occur in the northern United
States and Canada, east of the Rocky Mountains, which are found in the
state of Minnesota. It is called the Moccasin flower because it
resembles the Indian shoe. This plant grows preferably in cool and moist
woods or in bogs. It flowers principally during the months of May and
June. The varieties differ in color, being deep red, pink, yellow, white
and variegated. All of the species, however, are very beautiful.
The varieties more commonly found in Minnesota are, Acaule, rose purple;
Candidum, small white; Arietinum, red and white; Parviflorum, small
yellow; Pubescens, large yellow; and Spectabile, description of which is
as follows: Plants stout, leaves oval, acute; sepals, roundish, white;
petals, oblong, white; labellum, white or pale pink purple. Very showy.
It is unfortunate that the Minnesota State Flower does not take kindly
to civilization and cultivation, as it is very difficult to transplant.
About ten years ago at Lake City, Minnesota, we tried to propagate the
moccasin flower. We dug the roots and transplanted them in ground
especially prepared in a nearby grove where we could watch their
development, but the plants were a failure.
A state flower should be one of the common flowers of the state, so
familiar to all, that its name would suggest a picture of the flower
itself. Probably not 10 per cent of the people of the state have ever
seen it. On this account it is to be regretted that this variety was
chosen as the flower emblem of the state. A state flower, like the state
flag, should be accessible and familiar to everyone, and yet, probably,
the state flag of Minnesota is a stranger to many residents of the
state, for Minnesota did not have a state flag until 1893.
An emblem should mean something to the individual. The family coat of
arms and the iron cross are distinctive emblems. The shamrock in
sentiment is as dear to an Irishman as his native land. If an emblem
means something to the individual, how much more it ought to mean to the
state and nation.
The flag is an emblem of loyalty and patriotism. Men fight for it. They
lay down their lives for it because it stands for home and country. I
fancy if men did not know what the flag looked like, the fight would
not be a very fierce one. Do you know what the state flag of Minnesota
looks like? A description of it can be found in the Legislative Manual
for 1915. This flag bears a wreath of white moccasin flowers
(Spectabile) upon a blue background, in the center of which is the state
seal. The design was chosen by a committee of six ladies. It is
appropriate and beautiful, and was designed by Mrs. Edward H. Center, of
Minneapolis.
The state should furnish an attractive picture of the state flower and
the state flag to every high school in the state, free of charge. The
influence would be good, creating a deeper loyalty to the state.
Wisconsin State Horticultural Society.
REMARKS AT ANNUAL MEETING BY SECY. F. CRANEFIELD, MADISON, WIS.
President Cashman: We have with us today, Prof. Cranefield, secretary of
the Wisconsin Society. I am sure everybody will be pleased to hear from
him.
Mr. Cranefield: Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen: I thank you, Mr.
President, for your very kind introduction. I know you meant well when
you introduced me as professor, but I really must plead "not guilty" to
the charge. There was a time, long ago, when I was connected with our
Agricultural College, in a minor relation, that I was not in a position
to resent it, but I have reformed since, and as secretary of the
Wisconsin Horticultural Society I am trying to live down the past.
It goes without saying that I am glad to be here. I want to come as long
as you will let me come. We of the Wisconsin society are watching you
closely to see if we can by any means learn the secret of your success,
and to that end we are here in considerable force. Our president is
here, and the managers of two of our largest co-operative fruit shippers
associations also.
Frankly, we want to beat you if we can. You have the biggest and the
best society in the country, and we have the second biggest and next
best, and we are striving for first place.
Having now disposed of the usual compliments befitting the occasion I
will aim to tell you of a few things we are trying to do in the
Wisconsin society.
The efforts of our society during the past ten years have been directed
quite largely to the development of commercial fruit-growing in the
state. While we have not overlooked nor forgotten the home owner we have
been working to take commercial orcharding out of the hands of the
farmer and put it in the hands of specialists, and we are succeeding. We
have today about thirty thousand acres of purely commercial orchards in
Wisconsin and more coming. We discourage by every means at command the
planting of fruit trees by the man who is engaged in general farming
except sufficient for his own use.
Further, in this campaign we aim to concentrate our efforts on certain
districts so as to build up fruit centers. For instance we have in Door
County, that narrow little neck of land between Green Bay and Lake
Michigan, over seven thousand five hundred acres of orchards, apple and
cherry.
Along the Bayfield shore line we have another splendid fruit district
almost, if not quite, as well known as Hood River and worth vastly more.
In the southwestern corner of the state along the valley of the Kickapoo
River, on the high bluffs on either side of the river, have been planted
a thousand acres of apples and cherries in the past five years.
While not all of this development is directly due to the Horticultural
Society, ours has been the moving spirit. The Kickapoo development is
due wholly to the work of the society.
In this way we are establishing an industry that will be a tremendous
asset to the state. There was a time when dairying was but a feeble
industry in Wisconsin, and now we lead.
Our society also aids in the development of marketing associations. In
doing these things we also aid the farmer and home owner, for whatever
is best in the commercial orchard is best in the home orchard. Spraying,
pruning and cultivation as practiced by the expert serve as models for
the farmer who has but two dozen trees.
The other activities of our society are similar to yours. We publish a
magazine, as you do; we hold two conventions, as you do; in fact our
work, and no less our interests, are the same as yours, and I most
sincerely hope that the very pleasant relations that have existed
between the societies may continue for all time.
Marketing Fruit Direct.
H. G. STREET, HEBRON, ILL.
In studying this subject, the direct marketing of fruit, let us first
see how much it includes. Does it include simply marketing alone? Or
does the success of it depend principally upon the varieties of fruit
set out together with the after cultivation, pruning and spraying? First
of all you must interest people in your work by producing something that
they really want, and half of your problem will then be solved.
There are any number of places in the northwest where the demand far
exceeds the supply. I do not mean for the common run of fruit full of
worms and covered with scab, but, instead, strictly No. 1 fruit of the
very best varieties.
About 1901, through the advice of my uncle, Dr. A. H. Street, of Albert
Lea, I joined your society, and through the experience of your members I
learned many valuable lessons. Perhaps the one that impressed me the
most was that of grafting our choicest varieties upon hardy crab stocks
so as to make them hardy enough to withstand our hardest winters, and by
so doing it nearly insures us against total failures in the fruit crop
and especially against losing the trees outright.
[Illustration: Mr. H. G. Street, of Hebron, Ills.]
This top-working of course will not do all; we still have to assist
Nature by proper spraying, pruning, cultivating, etc. Doing all in your
power to secure a crop each year to supply the trade you have already
worked up is a big item in holding it.
While studying your conditions, together with those of Wisconsin and
Illinois, I became very much interested in the native plums as well as
in the apple industry. Therefore I also set out some three acres of the
following varieties: Surprise, Terry, Wyant, Hammer and Hawkeye, also
some of the Emerald and Lombard.
As this was then new business to me, I had fallen into no deep ruts, and
of course I took it for granted that all horticulturists practiced what
they preached. Therefore I pruned, sprayed, etc., according to
directions, and in due time the fruits of my labor commenced to show up,
and they certainly were attractive to the eye as well as to the taste.
[Illustration: Wolf River apple tree twelve years old, bearing eighteen
bushels, in H. G. Street's orchard.]
As our supply increased our demand increased also, so that for the past
five years our average plum crop has been around 2,000 baskets (the
8-lb. grape basket) and all sold readily at 25 to 35 cents retail.
We are located at Hebron, Illinois, eight miles south of Lake Geneva,
Wis., on the Chicago & Lake Geneva Railway, which makes an ideal
location for a fancy trade. During plum harvest it is nothing uncommon
to have fifty to 100 visitors a day. These customers include all
classes, from the Chicago millionaires to the common laborers, and all
receive the same cordial reception.
We make it a point never to allow them to think that we are close with
our fruit--not even the neighborhood boys, as they are our best
friends. What they buy we charge them a good fair price for and never
fail to give all new customers a few choice samples of best varieties.
By the latter part of the plum season our big red Wolf River apples
commence to show up and cook well; also Wealthy and McIntosh commence to
get ripe enough to eat, and the demand each year has far exceeded the
supply.
So far we have had very few poor apples, but we always sort them into
three grades, the third grade being made up into cider to sell while
sweet. The second grade we sell as such for immediate use. The firsts of
the McIntosh we have sold at $2.00 to $2.50 per bushel, Wealthy,
Jonathan and Grimes at $1.50 to $2.00, while Wolf, N. W. Greening,
Salome, Winesap, Milwaukee, etc., have averaged us $1.25 per bushel. We
are always very careful not to have any bruised, diseased or ill shaped
specimens in our first grade.
The President: Can you tell us something more about your experience in
marketing direct? Do you sell all the fruit you raise on the place?
Mr. Street: We sell about all the fruit that we raise direct to the
consumer. When we first started we started with strawberries, and about
half of our crop went to the merchants, and he would retail it for 20
per cent, but to any one that came there for it we would charge the full
retail price, same as he had to charge, and we never had any trouble
with any of the stores that we dealt with. If we have any seconds or
anything we don't like to put out to the stores we sell them to our
customers and charge them whatever we think would be right for them.
As to plums, about two-thirds of those would sell right direct to
customers coming there, the rest we supplied to the stores at 20 per
cent discount so that they could retail them at the same price that we
retail them for. Since the apples have begun to bear it seems that
two-thirds of the people want the McIntosh, and almost everyone is
satisfied with its flavor. They average a little larger with us than the
Wealthy, and some of them you can hardly tell from the Wealthy unless
you know just about what the fruit is. Last year we kept them until
about February or possibly later, but an apple with as good a flavor as
that you cannot keep from being eaten up.
The President: I suppose that is automobile trade?
Mr. Street: A great deal of it is.
The President: How did you get it? By advertising?
Mr. Street: No, by doing something so much different from what anybody
else is doing you get people to talking. I think the Wolf River apple
together with the Terry and Surprise plums have been the cause of
getting started. Of course, the McIntosh now is helping out, too. You
give a person a few Wolf River, not for eating but for cooking, and then
give him a Wealthy or something like that to eat--they will be looking
at the big Wolf River and eating the other and seem to be well satisfied
and always come back. Whenever we sell to the stores we always gauge our
prices so that the majority of their customers will take our fruit
before taking the shipped in fruit from Chicago. We find with grapes we
can charge about five cents a basket more than they retail the Michigan
grapes for.
[Illustration: View in eleven year old orchard of H. G. Street.]
For native plums we get more than they do for the Michigan fruit. We
have had quite a good many of the Burbank plums, but we cannot sell over
one-third as many as we do of the natives.
A Member: You don't ship them, so don't consider the packing?
Mr. Street: The only ones we ship are those ordered by people coming
there or by letter. If they want a bushel we pack them in a bushel box.
If they want three or six bushels then we pack them in barrels.
Mr. Anderson: Where are you located?
Mr. Street: Just south of the Wisconsin state line.
Mr. Anderson: I am located 100 miles west of here, and I shipped out 400
bushels of apples to the Dakotas last year direct.
Mr. Richardson: How many growers are there in your neighborhood growing
fruit commercially?
Mr. Street: I do not know of any who spray, cultivate and prune
according to the best methods within about 100 miles. We always make it
a point to give our customers good fruit, so that we are not afraid to
recommend it. Then there is another advantage. If they come right there,
and we have any seconds we can tell them just what they are, and if they
want them we can sell them for what they are worth, but if we are
putting them into a store, I prefer not to put in seconds.
Mr. Kochendorfer: I think that is the advantage of disposing on a public
market. You have a chance to sell the inferior goods without any coming
back.
Mr. Street: The main thing is to use improved methods and try to outdo
the other fellow. Cultivate a little more thoroughly, put in your cover
crop, not over-fertilize but all you possibly can; give the dormant
spray; spray before bloom very thoroughly and again after bloom; two
weeks after that again, about July 15th.
Mr. Richardson: How many apple trees have you?
Mr. Street: We now have ten acres in apples, but most of them are young,
about three acres in bearing.
Mr. Richardson: I would like to ask the gentleman if in a small place
that way he hasn't a better local market than we have here in the larger
cities. Around Lake Minnetonka they raise grapes, but we get most of our
grapes from Ohio and Indiana. I have wondered why it is that these
grapes go to another market when they can just as well go to the
Minneapolis market. You know as well as I do anyone buying fruit in the
Twin Cities always buy fruit grown in Ohio or Indiana.
Mr. Street: I do not know why it is, but so far we haven't realized that
we have any competition. We charge for our best eating apples fully as
much as the stores have to charge for the Western fancy packed fruit.
There is not a worm hole or speck of disease on the No. 1, and really I
can't see how they can compete after raising the fruit in the West and
packing and shipping it to Chicago and then out there. The price they
would have to charge there would make us a good fair price; in fact, a
good big price.
A Satisfactory Marketing System.
G. A. ANDERSON, RENVILLE.
I have marketed this fall some over 400 barrels of apples, mostly
Wealthy, Duchess and Northwestern Greening. Three hundred barrels of
these were shipped direct to local merchants in Dakota and western
Minnesota towns in small shipments of a few barrels at a time or as fast
as they could sell them. I started this way of marketing during the big
crop of 1913 and this year again, getting nearly all of my old customers
back and many new ones. I secured satisfactory prices, and for my
location I believe I have solved the marketing problem. One does not pay
much attention to the marketing as long as enough only for local demand
is produced, but when one has a surplus to dispose of the marketing
problem looms rather large. I have tried several times shipping to
commission firms, but have never received satisfactory returns.
A Successful Cold Storage for Apples.
H. F. HANSEN, ORCHARDIST, ALBERT LEA.
Mr. Clarence Wedge: I want to preface this short paper with the
statement that Mr. Hansen is a man who has worked himself up from the
very bottom of the horticultural ladder. He came to Albert Lea a very
poor man, and I think supported himself for some time by trapping and
fishing and such work as he was able to do. He is a man with a great
tendency to investigate and to work out problems for himself. By his
thrift and persevering investigations he has brought himself into a fine
property and great success. He is the market gardener in our part of the
country and a credit to his kind. (Mr. Wedge reads the paper.)
When my orchard, near the city of Albert Lea, began to bear heavy crops
of fruit, I found it very desirable to hold the Wealthy and other kinds
that ripen at the same time until after the farmers had marketed their
fruit. We have a very good cold storage in Albert Lea that is open to
the public, but the price they charge is sixty cents per barrel for two
months' storage, which is more than the fruit will bear, and so I began
to think of putting up a cold storage of my own.
My first one was built underground with pipes for ice and salt to cool
it, something like the system that I am now using. But I found out in
the first season that it takes a great deal of ice to offset the heat
that is coming in from the ground at the sides and bottom of the cellar.
And so I built the storage which I am now using entirely above ground,
using the basement under it for storing cabbage and vegetables. I built
this in 1913, the size 28x56 feet, using cement blocks for the basement,
where the cabbages are stored. The cold storage above this is built as
follows:
First, an ordinary frame building with 2x4 inch studdings sheathed on
the outside with drop siding with No. 3 flooring. Inside of this
sheathing 2x4 inch studs placed flatwise, sheathed on the inside with
No. 3 flooring, and the six-inch space back of the studs filled with
sawdust. On the outside of this firing strips one-half foot are nailed,
which are covered with linofelt. One-half foot firing strips are nailed
inside of this, and these also covered with linofelt. To this again
one-half foot firing strips are added, to which are nailed metal lath,
and the whole is plastered with cement. The floor both above and below
is made of 2×12 joists, with No. 3 flooring nailed below the joints, the
space between which is then filled with ten inches of saw dust, leaving
an air space of two inches at the upper edge of the joists. The joists
are then covered with linofelt and then the linofelt covered with No. 3
flooring.
On the north and west sides I found it necessary to add one more
waterproof coat of linofelt in order to make sure of keeping out the
frost.
I have so far only finished up for cold storage one-half of the room,
using the other half for a packing room, so that my present facilities
are only 28×28 feet. This room is cooled by eight inch pipes of
galvanized iron, extending from the attic above to troughs near the
floor, that are sloping so as to carry off the melted ice. These pipes
are on both sides about two feet apart. The ice is pulled up into the
attic by horsepower and broken up small enough into pieces to feed the
pipes. The amount of salt used with the ice depends upon how fast we
want the ice to melt. A large quantity of salt cools the storage down
quicker. In practice I find that it takes one hour for a man to elevate
a ton of ice, chop it up and fill the pipes. They hold something over a
ton and must be filled every other day in ordinary September weather. It
will not do to let the pipes remain less than one-half full. When the
ice gets down that far, we have to fill again.
The total cost of my storage when it is entirely furnished up and the
present capacity doubled will be about $3,000.00. At present it holds
2,000 standard size apple boxes.
I find that it only pays to put in good fruit that in ordinary seasons
will keep until the first of March and hold its flavor well and give
good satisfaction on the market. Icing stops about the middle of
November. The cost per box for storage is as follows: Ice and salt, ten
cents. Interest on investment, six cents. I have figured out carefully
the entire cost of growing and storing apples, and find out that leaving
out the interest on the value of the land, it will approximate
forty-eight cents per bushel. This includes cultivation, spraying,
packing, and picking. The question which now interests me is whether we
can grow fruit good enough and stand the expense and compete with apples
grown in the other good fruit sections of the country.
Mr. Older: I had the pleasure of visiting this plant with Mr. Wedge, and
this man had quite a good many boxes of as fine apples as you would wish
to see. This was along the latter part of February, and they were in
fine condition. He had a lot of Jonathans and Yankees and some other
varieties I don't remember, grown on top-worked trees there.
The Plum Curculio.
EDWARD A. NELSON, UNIVERSITY FARM, ST. PAUL.
(Prize Winner at Gideon Memorial Contest.)
The small crescent-shaped punctures, so common on apples, plums, peaches
and other fruits, are made by a small snout-beetle known as the plum
curculio. The beetles issue from their winter quarters at about the time
the trees are in full bloom and feed on the tender foliage, buds and
blossoms. Later they attack the newly set fruit, cutting small circular
holes through the skin in feeding, while the females, in the operation
of egg-laying, make the crescentic cuts so characteristic of this
species. The egg, deposited under the skin of the fruit, soon hatches
into a very small whitish larva or grub, which makes its way into the
flesh of the fruit. Here it feeds greedily and grows rapidly, becoming,
in the course of two weeks, the fat, dirty white "worm" so well known
among fruit growers.
The curculio is a native of North America and for more than 150 years
has been known as an enemy of fruits. Our early horticultural literature
abounds with reference to its depredations. In more recent times the
great increase in planting of fruits, brought about to supply the
increased demand, has permitted it to become much more abundant than
formerly, and the plum curculio constitutes at the present time one of
the most serious insect enemies of orchard fruits. Statistics gathered
of its depredations show that it is distributed over much of the area of
the United States. Its western limit is, roughly, a line drawn through
the centers of North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma
and Texas. East of this line the entire United States is infested except
the southern third of Florida and the northern half of Maine.
Is the plum curculio causing much damage to the fruit growing industry
of this country? That it is is shown by the National Conservation
Committee in its report in Volume III, page 309, where it states that
the average annual loss in late years to only three fruits is as
follows:
Apples $3,257,806
Peaches 4,088,814
Plums 1,244,149
----------
Grand Total $8,590,769
Just think of it! A total loss each year to only three fruits of over
$8,500,000. This amount is a heavy drain upon the fruit growing
industry of this country. During the past twenty-five or thirty years
the total damage caused by this insect, to the various fruits which it
attacks, would, on a conservative estimate, probably be not less than
$100,000,000.
These figures show the absolute need of the adoption of effective
remedial measures against this insect so as to lessen this loss. But
before we can hope to combat this insect systematically and successfully
it is necessary to know its life history and habits.
[Illustration: The curculio in its stages of growth, and its fruit
injury.]
There are four distinct stages in its life cycle: (1) The egg, (2) the
larva, or "worm," (3) the pupa, and (4) the adult, or beetle.
The curculio passes the winter in the adult stage under accumulations
of partly decayed leaves, among the closely-packed dried grass of
sod-covered orchards, and probably wherever suitable protection from the
winter may be found. Its depredations are usually worse near woods, so
it probably finds here very suitable places for wintering.
In the spring, when the fruit buds are unfolding, the beetles begin to
emerge from their winter quarters and feed to some extent on the
blossoms and tender leaves of the fruit trees. Mating soon begins, and
by the time the fruit is well set the beetles make this fruit the chief
object of their attention. The circular punctures in the skin are
feeding punctures, while the crescent-shaped ones are egg-laying
punctures. A single egg is deposited in a puncture, although several may
be placed in a single fruit. From one to eight eggs may be deposited
daily by an individual female, which may be continued for several
months. The great majority of the eggs, however, are deposited by the
end of eight weeks. These eggs hatch in from three to seven days, being
influenced greatly by the weather.
The egg hatches into a larva, or "worm," which bores into the fruit. It
becomes full-grown in from twelve to twenty days and bores out of the
fruit. It enters the soil, burrows to a depth of one-half to two inches,
and forms an earthern cell in which to pupate. In three or four weeks it
emerges as a full grown beetle and attacks the ungathered fruit and the
foliage. On the approach of cold weather the beetle seeks a protected
place in which to pass the winter.
The character of the injury is very nearly alike in all fruits. In the
plum the fruit often falls to the ground before mature. In seasons of
short crops very little fruit may remain to ripen. The punctures cause
the fruit to become mis-shaped and to exude masses of gum. The ripe
fruit becomes "wormy." The late varieties may be seriously injured by
the new generation of adults. In the apple the injury to the fruit is
about the same as in the plum, except that the infested fruit is not so
likely to fall to the ground and that the egg rarely hatches into the
grub there. The fruit becomes knotted and pitted. The late varieties may
also be injured by the new generation of adults. In the peach, cherry
and other stone fruits, the injury closely resembles that of the plum.
Although the plum curculio has some natural enemies that tend to reduce
its numbers somewhat, yet they are not important enough to be considered
as effective means of control. Some of these natural enemies are
parasites of various kinds, birds, chickens and the like.
There are several remedial measures practiced, varying in their degree
of effectiveness. Away back in the early days of horticulture in this
country, when the curculio became very abundant rewards were offered for
an effective method of combating it. Several were proposed, but only a
few were at all effective. The best of these methods is what is called
"jarring."
The curculio has the habit of falling to the ground and "playing
'possum" when disturbed. This led to the practice of holding or
spreading sheets beneath the tree and then striking the tree a sudden,
forcible blow with a padded pole or mallet in order to dislodge the
beetles. The trees were jarred daily from the time the calyx or "shuck"
began to slip from the newly set fruit until the beetles had
disappeared, or for at least four or five weeks. This was practiced to
quite an extent, but it takes too much time and is too expensive.
A still better remedy is clean cultivation. Experiments have shown that
as high as 76.75 per cent. of the pupae may be destroyed by means of
thorough cultivation. The mere breaking of the pupal cell, leaving the
earth in contact with the body of the pupa, is fatal to many. Others are
killed by the crushing action of the earth as it is stirred. Others are
exposed to the elements and subject to the attacks of their enemies,
such as ants and birds. Sunlight is quickly fatal to them, and exposure
to the air on a warm day in the shade is also fatal to them.
Observations show that the insect is in the pupal condition in the
ground in from fifty to sixty-five days after the falling of the
blossoms of such fruit as apples and plums. Data have been presented to
show that the minimum time spent in the ground is about twenty days.
Shallow cultivation should begin, therefore, in about eight or nine
weeks after blossoming. It is best to cultivate every week or oftener
for six or seven weeks. It is very necessary that this cultivation
should reach immediately beneath the spread of the limbs, as most of the
curculios are found here, having dropped from the fruit above and
burrowed into the soil where they fell.
The third method of combating the curculio, the method most commonly
used and most generally recommended, is spraying with arsenical poisons.
The spray most generally used is arsenate of lead. The most economical
and effective way is to add arsenate of lead to Bordeaux mixture. The
Bordeaux is mixed in the following proportions: three pounds of copper
sulphate (blue vitriol), four pounds of lime, and fifty gallons of
water. To this amount of Bordeaux mixture three pounds of arsenate of
lead are added. In place of Bordeaux mixture lime-sulphur may be used.
If the insecticide is used alone, three pounds of arsenate of lead in
fifty gallons of water make an effective spray. It is best to spray
three times, the first spraying coming just before the blossoms open,
the second coming ten days later, and the third another ten days later.
The cost is from ten to fifteen cents per tree for the three sprayings.
This cost is lessened when combined with other sprays.
While spraying greatly reduces the injuries inflicted, yet it is
apparent that account must be taken of other factors, such as the
relative abundance of insects as compared with the amount of fruit
present on the trees. With a small fruit crop and an abundance of
curculios, the most thorough spraying in the world will not serve to
bring through a satisfactory amount of sound fruit.
While spraying is undoubtedly the most important aid and, if persisted
in from year to year, may answer for its control, as its effects are
cumulative, yet it is clear that other control measures should also be
employed. In all cases which have come under observation the insects
have always been found most abundant in orchards which are in sod or are
poorly cared for and allowed to grow up more or less in weeds and trash.
Also, orchards near woods always suffer severely, especially along the
border. As opposed to this condition is the notably less injury in
orchards kept free from weeds and trash. In such cases spraying usually
given for other insects, as the codling moth, serves to keep the
curculio well under control. In fact, it may be said as a general
statement that the curculio will never become seriously troublesome in
orchards given the usual routine attention in cultivation, spraying and
pruning now considered essential in successful fruit growing. Serious
losses from the curculio are almost conclusive evidence of neglect,
which is best and most quickly corrected by the adoption of proper
orchard practice.
* * * * *
AN ANTIDOTE FOR WASP STINGS.--It not infrequently happens that
persons biting unguardedly into fruit in which a wasp is concealed
receive stings in the mouth or throat. Such stings may be exceedingly
dangerous and even fatal since the affected tissues swell rapidly and
this is liable to cause difficulty in swallowing and breathing. An
effective antidote is employed in Switzerland. The sting is rubbed
vigorously with garlic, or, if it is too deep in the throat for this
treatment, a few drops of the juice from bruised garlic are swallowed.
If garlic is not to be obtained onion may take its place, but is a less
active agent. The efficacy of this simple remedy was verified by a Swiss
specialist, who found it important enough to be presented at a session
of the Vaudois Society of Medicine.
Increasing the Fertility of the Land.
PROF. F. J. ALWAY, DIVISION OF SOILS, UNIVERSITY FARM, ST. PAUL.
I have been asked to speak on "Increasing the Fertility of the Land." To
speak on such a subject is sometimes a rather delicate matter because
some people consider they have a soil so good that you can't increase
its fertility. With some of the prairie soils, when they were first
plowed up that wouldn't have been so very far amiss. Take those black
prairie soils with the grayish yellow clay subsoil, with an abundance of
lime in it, which you find in a large part of the state, including a
large part of Hennepin County, and you have as good a soil as you may
expect to find anywhere on the earth's surface. But you can't keep a
soil up to its full limit of fertility, no matter how good it is, unless
you frequently treat it with something.
[Illustration: Prof. F. J. Alway.]
When a soil is well supplied with lime there are three things that are
liable to be deficient. If it is not well supplied with lime there may
be four, but the bulk of your soils are good enough so far as lime is
concerned. Those three are potash, which is abundant and will be
abundant 100 years from now, phosphoric acid, or phosphorus, with which
our soils are fairly well supplied, and nitrogen, which comes from the
vegetable matter. In nitrogen our prairie soils are remarkably rich when
first plowed up. The phosphoric acid and the potash you can not lose
unless they are taken away in the form of crops, but the nitrogen may be
lost without even taking off crops. All you have to do is to cultivate
your soil, when part of the nitrogen becomes soluble in water and is
carried down by the rain into the water-table unless you have plants
growing with roots to take it up; a large part escapes into the air. So
when your black prairie soil has been under cultivation for twenty
years, as an orchard, usually from one-half to one-third of the
original nitrogen has escaped, most of it into the air, only the smaller
part being carried off in the crops. That is the one thing that
orchardists and horticulturists have to concern themselves about first
of all, so far as soil fertility is concerned.
I see that the first of the questions for me to answer deals with that.
"What crop do you consider the best green manure?" There are two kinds
of green manures. One is represented by rye. Rye takes up the nitrogen
that is in the soil, and when it dies leaves behind what it took out of
the soil; the next crop can get this. By plowing under the rye crop you
do not increase the amount of nitrogen, the most important element of
fertility in the soil.
We have a better green manure than that, better than rye or oats or
barley or any of those plants that properly belong to the grass family;
namely, the members of the clover, bean or pea family--all of these
plants which are called legumes, which have pods and which have flowers
shaped like butterflies.
As these grow they take up nitrogen from the air; the bacteria which
make their home on the roots of those plants take the nitrogen from the
air and give it to their host plants. The plants receive this nitrogen,
store it in themselves, and when the crop is plowed under you have a
great amount of nitrogen added to the soil. Now, a clover crop of an
acre growing from spring until the freeze-up in the fall may take out of
the air as much as 120 pounds of nitrogen. One hundred and twenty pounds
of nitrogen, bought in the form of commercial fertilizer from Swift &
Company, or Northrup, King & Company, would cost you $24.00. The clover
has taken that much out of the air. If the crop were pastured off, the
greater part of this nitrogen would be returned to the soil; when you
plow the clover under still more nitrogen is taken from the air by
bacteria that live upon the decaying plant material, and you may have
$48.00 worth of nitrogen per acre added to the soil by simply growing
clover for one year.
Any kind of green manure crop that bears pods is good. Vetches are good,
and soy beans are among the best for orchards. Clover, if you give it
time to make a good growth, is as good as anything.
The next question is--"Should apple raisers use commercial fertilizers?"
Now, the apple tree, when it is growing on good soil, makes such a
vigorous root development that it is hard to get any commercial
fertilizer to help it. On poor soils it, like any other kind of plant,
will respond to fertilizers. Some of the eastern experimental stations
have been carrying on investigations with commercial fertilizers for a
great many years to see whether in apple orchards these will cause an
increase in the yield or an improvement in the quality of the fruit. On
good soils, even after ten or twelve years' fertilization they have been
found to have no effect except in the case of nitrogen, and this can be
better supplied in the form of a green manure plowed under than in any
other way. That is to say, keep your orchard clean until the last of
July or first of August, sow your green manure crop, let it grow until
freeze-up and stay there during the winter time. It holds the snow and
so affords some winter protection. In the spring plow it under, and you
plow under all the nitrogen that the plants had collected the previous
year. Then keep your orchard clean during the summer time, until in July
or August you again sow the green manure crop.
[Illustration: Applying ground limestone to an acid soil to determine
whether liming will be profitable. Half of the field is left unlimed.]
The fertilizers that I get more inquiries about than any others are the
phosphates--bone meal, acid phosphate and rock phosphate.
Horticulturists have read that striking results are being obtained with
these on certain crops in the eastern and central states, and they want
to know whether the same fertilizers will pay here. Some inquire about
potash fertilizers. With the latter there is no doubt but that the
results we would obtain would, even under ordinary circumstances, not
pay. At the present time potash costs about ten times what it does in
times of peace. Sulphate of potash, which ordinarily brings $45.00 per
ton, is now quoted at $450. This puts its use out of the question.
The phosphoric acid fertilizers are no higher now than usual. They cost,
according to the kind, from $9.50 to $25.00 per ton. Some of them are
produced near here--in South St. Paul. With tree crops, apple, plum and
pear, we need expect no increased yield from the use of phosphates,
unless it be on our very poorest soils. On certain crops, like the bush
fruits--the currants and the raspberries, we might get a distinct
benefit. I cannot give a definite answer to that. I can tell you what
results they have obtained in New York state, what they have obtained in
Pennsylvania or Illinois or Maine, but what results we would get in
Minnesota we do not know. We can't apply their results to our
conditions. The only thing we can do is to carry on such experiments
here, and they have not yet been started. That brings me to a third
question I have here.
"What experiments are being conducted by the University of Minnesota
with orchard and other horticultural crops?" We realized the importance
of this matter and plans were prepared. Then, as you know the last
legislature was economical. It decided that one of the best places to
make a cut would be in the funds for experimental work; when these funds
were reduced we not only could start no new experiments but even had to
cut off some of the old ones. For that reason these fertilizer
experiments have to wait until the next legislature or the one after. I
hope the next legislature will make such an appropriation that they may
be begun.
Now, for the next question. A man states that he can secure at a very
low rate limestone from one of the Minneapolis companies producing
crushed limestone for road-making purposes and wants to know whether it
will pay him to haul it to his farm. Well, if you do not have any other
work for your teams it may pay you. However, if your time is valuable,
you had better take some samples of the soil and send them in to the
experiment station. Just address them to the Soils Department or Soils
Division. Then we can decide whether it is worth while trying some of
the limestone. We cannot tell you whether it will pay; we can tell you
whether it is likely to pay, or whether it is likely to be a waste of
energy, or whether it is so doubtful that you ought to give it a fair
trial. On perhaps two-thirds of the fields in Hennepin County it would
be a waste of money and energy; on about half of the others, we may say,
it is almost certain to be a good investment at a dollar a ton. On the
remaining portion we simply can't say. On these, chances are even
whether it would pay. No crops are injured by limestone, so you are safe
in putting it on. Practically all crops are benefited by it on sour
soils and especially the vegetable crops.
The next question is--"Are the black peat or muck soils first class? Do
they need anything besides drainage?" Some of them, a very few, produce
really good crops when they are drained, plowed and brought under
ordinary cultivation without fertilization, but only a few. Nearly all
of them need commercial fertilizer, and until a bog covered with peat
soil has been carefully examined to ascertain the depth of the peat, the
difficulty of drainage, and the character of the peat (because peats
differ greatly within a few miles of each other) it is unwise to attempt
to reclaim it. Within three miles of the experiment station we have
three bogs very different in character. One, about half a mile from the
buildings, is heavily charged with lime. Another has an exceedingly
small quantity of lime so that profitable crop production of any kind
would be out of the question without a heavy application of ground
limestone or quicklime. Still another one stands between these two. One
of them can be reclaimed without any great expense, but with the one it
would be a very expensive matter to fertilize and treat with lime after
it had been drained.
Those are the questions that have been given me. Are there any other
questions?
Mr. McCall: What is peat lacking in?
Mr. Alway: Practically all peats are lacking in potash. If the peat
layer be very shallow, six inches, twelve inches, sometimes even
twenty-four inches, the plants are able to get their roots down through
the peat and get their potash from the underlying clay or loam. In that
case no fertilizer is needed. Some of the peats lack lime, some of them
lack lime, potash and phosphoric acid, and some these three and nitrogen
also, so that you either have to apply some commercial form of nitrogen
or grow legumes as green manures.
Mr. Kellogg: What was the trouble where I couldn't raise strawberries on
new wood soil?
Mr. Alway: I couldn't answer that.
Mr. Kellogg: The leaf mold was six or eight inches deep.
Mr. Alway: Was it any deeper than that?
Mr. Kellogg: I don't know, it may have been down a foot, and the leaf
mold had been accumulating there for ages.
Mr. Alway: In some cases the peat is so thoroughly decayed that it looks
like leaf mold and it may be a foot or two feet deep.
Mr. Kellogg: This was no peat, it was just wood soil. I could not raise
anything--
Mr. Alway: Did the plants grow?
Mr. Kellogg: Yes, the plants grew and wintered well but didn't bear
worth a cent.
Mr. Alway: Did they make lots of runners?
Mr. Kellogg: Oh, fairly good, but right over the fence in the next field
that had been worked for twenty-five years I got 260 bushels of
strawberries to the acre; never had any manure on it.
Mr. Alway: The more leaf mold the more nitrogen; if you have too much
nitrogen it may develop the vine and fail to form fruit or seed.
Mr. Ludlow: On heavy black prairie soil, three feet deep, where I am
growing eighty bushels of corn to the acre, I want to put in
strawberries, and I have a lot of wood ashes, dry wood ashes, not
leached ashes, but dry wood ashes. Would it be worth while to put that
on or would that overdo the thing? Would it be policy to put that on?
Mr. Alway: It is not likely to do any harm, and it is likely to do some
good. Wood ashes contain chiefly lime and potash. The potash will be a
distinct benefit. The lime isn't of any particular benefit to this crop
on most soils. For strawberries it is slightly harmful on our ordinary
soils that are originally well supplied with lime.
Mr. Ludlow: On another piece a ways from that I put out a young orchard,
and in order to start the trees well I had covered the ground half an
inch deep with wood ashes around those trees. I noticed that the weeds
grew there twice as quick as they did when I got away from the wood
ashes.
Mr. Alway: There you have the benefit of the potash and the lime. If you
put lime in the orchards it will make the clover and most of the other
green manure crops grow better, and thus you gain in nitrogen from the
lime; you gain in potash as it comes from the wood ashes.
Mr. Brackett: Have you ever found any ground with too much leaf mold on
it to grow good strawberries?
Mr. Alway: I have not.
Mr. Brackett: I remember when I broke out my place where I am living now
I had a place where the leaves had collected and rotted until I would
say there was eight or ten inches of leaf mold. When you went across it
you would sink in almost to your shoe tops. On that piece of ground I
grew 11,000 quarts of strawberries to the acre in a year, the largest
yield I had ever grown on that leaf mold. You can never get too much
leaf mold. There must have been something else besides the leaf mold.
Mr. Alway: In case a crop does not give a satisfactory yield it may be
due to other things than the soil, and until we eliminate the other
possible causes we can't safely blame it to the soil.
Mr. Moyer: What do those black soils in the western part of the state
need? They have a whitish deposit on top.
Mr. Alway: Drainage. That is alkali.
Mr. Kochendorfer: I have a ten-year apple orchard that I disked last
year and kept it tolerably clean this spring. There were a lot of
dandelions sprung up that I mowed down the middle of July, and since
then they have grown up again. Will they take nitrogen the same as
clover?
Mr. Alway: They won't take any from the air. They will act like so much
rye, but when they die and decay nitrogen will be gathered from the air
and added to the soil by bacteria that live upon the decaying vegetable
matter.
Mr. Kellogg: Did you ever hear of them dying?
Mr. Alway: Dandelions? If they are plowed under.
A Member: Is it practicable to grow soy beans in this soil? Can they be
gotten at a reasonable price, and can we mature them here?
Mr. Alway: They mature here without any serious difficulty. There are a
great many different varieties. If you order them from a distant seed
house you may get a variety that will mature in Louisiana but not in
Minnesota.
A Member: How about cowpeas?
Mr. Alway: Cowpeas are disappointing thus far north. In Minnesota they
are not nearly as satisfactory as the soy bean. In an unusually warm
summer they are satisfactory.
A Member: With the soy bean do you have to plow in the whole of it?
Mr. Alway: Yes. The whole plant ought to be plowed under.
A Member: Would it be practicable to feed soy beans in an orchard?
Mr. Alway: Yes. You don't get quite the same benefit from the green
manure when you pasture as when you plow under.
A Member: How about the hairy vetch? Does it grow here?
Mr. Alway: Yes. It grows here. It is not a bad crop at all.
* * * * *
POISONING TREE SCALE.--We take the following from _Scientific
American_ as worth consideration by the owners of orchards and lawns:
A correspondent in _Science_ relates the following rather startling
experiment in killing tree scale by poisoning the sap of the tree. He
says:
"I have in my ground a plant of Spanish broom about a dozen years old
and with a trunk about four inches in diameter which has for several
years been seriously infested by cottony cushion scale (_Icerya
purchasi_). I have tried various sprays, have put scale-eating beetles
on the tree, and at one time cut all the branches off and sprayed the
trunk several times in the attempt to get permanently rid of this scale,
but up to last winter it seemed that all attempts were in vain. In
February of this year, when the broom was very thickly covered with the
scale, I bored a three-eighths inch hole in the trunk to a depth of
about three inches, filled the hole nearly full of crystals of potassic
cyanide, and plugged it up. In two days the scale began to fall from the
tree and in a few days all appeared dead. Others hatched and attacked
the tree, but lasted only a short time, and the tree has since been free
from scale and very vigorous."
NOTICE OF SUMMER MEETING, 1916
A JOINT SESSION OF THE MINNESOTA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY AND ITS
AUXILIARIES, THE MINNESOTA STATE GARDEN FLOWER SOCIETY, THE MINNESOTA
STATE BEE KEEPERS SOCIETY AND THE MINNESOTA STATE FLORISTS SOCIETY.
Will be held FRIDAY, JUNE 23rd, 1916, in the Gymnasium, at University
Farm, St. Paul.
THE GYMNASIUM BUILDING in which this meeting is to be held has
recently been constructed and only finished suitable for the uses of
this gathering within the past year. The grounds about it are still in
part in an unfinished condition. Directly south of this building are the
football grounds, originally a marshy tract, now filled in and leveled
off, with hillsides sloping upwards some thirty to forty feet on either
side, well shaded. These slopes would be excellent places for the picnic
dinner and the afternoon session except for the fact that they have
recently been seeded and are not yet in condition for use. The main room
in the gymnasium building, which is a very large room--at least three
times as large as the one occupied by our exhibit last year--will be
used for the fruit and flower display, and exhibitors can have access to
this hall early in the forenoon, though visitors will be barred from the
exhibition hall until 12:00 m. to give ample opportunity for placing and
judging the display.
The exhibition will remain in place undisturbed until 9:00 o'clock p.m.
The flowers will be distributed to the various hospitals in the Twin
Cities.
THE PREMIUM LIST accompanying this notice is practically the
same as last year, there being only a few minor changes, to which it
will not be necessary to refer here. The season, up to the time of
writing this notice at least, having been a favorable one we are
anticipating a large display of flowers, probably the finest ever shown
at any of our summer gatherings, and as the weather is always pleasant
on the occasion of our summer meeting a large gathering of members and
visitors is also assured.
DEMONSTRATIONS.--There will be a number of demonstrations at
the farm, one by Prof. Francis Jager, the apiculturist, at 11:30
o'clock, at the Apiary Building. No special subject has been announced
for this, but it is certain to be a profitable occasion for those
interested in bee culture. Professors connected with the entomological
and pathological departments will conduct experiments in spraying at
some point near the Main Building. Undoubtedly there will be other
demonstrations, which may be announced before the meeting or in regard
to which announcements will be found posted at the gymnasium.
GUIDES TO THE GROUNDS.--Guides will be in attendance to escort
visitors about the grounds to various points of interest. These guides
will be prepared to answer questions pertaining to the various branches
of educational work at the farm. Those who wish to take advantage of
this service will meet the guides at the gymnasium at 10:30 a.m. and
3:30 p.m. The guides will wear suitable badges.
PICNIC DINNER.--In regard to the picnic dinner, which will
occupy the time between noon and 2:00 o'clock, we are not quite sure as
to where it will be held, but probably near the dining hall. Should the
weather be unfavorable of course there is plenty of room inside the
gymnasium building. Lemonade, ice cold, will be provided in quantity at
the gymnasium building to meet the needs of the picnickers.
AFTERNOON MEETING.--At 2:00 p.m. the afternoon session of the
meeting will be held at some point in or around the gymnasium building,
depending on the weather at that time and somewhat also on the weather
between now and then as to the condition the grounds may be in.
REACHING THE GROUNDS.--Take the Como-Harriet or Como-Hopkins
car in either St. Paul or Minneapolis, get off at Doswell Avenue, and a
walk of approximately one-half mile will bring you to University Farm
grounds. To reach the gymnasium go north on Cleveland Avenue, which is
the avenue running along the west side of University Farm, past the
University Farm buildings until you come to the last building, which you
will recognize as the gymnasium by its size. The grounds between
Cleveland Avenue and the gymnasium are in an unfinished condition, but
visitors will readily find their way across. If you prefer to ride all
the way to the grounds get off at Eustis Avenue, which the conductor
will point out to you. From that place cars run every fifteen minutes
into the Farm grounds, an extra fare of five cents being charged. Ask
the conductor to let you off at the gymnasium building, which you will
reach from the street car after a short walk over ground still ungraded
and where no special path has been provided. Getting off at that point,
however, saves a long walk from the terminal station. If in doubt as to
the way, follow the sign of the arrow.
VISIT TO STATE FRUIT-BREEDING FARM.--This farm is located at
Zumbra Heights, twenty-two miles west of Minneapolis on the Minneapolis
and St. Louis railroad. The train leaves depot at 8:35 a.m. Return can
be made by way of Zumbra Heights landing on Lake Minnetonka and the lake
steamers via trolley line to Minneapolis, or by waiting until
mid-afternoon a train can be secured returning to the city on the
railroad. One or more of the professors will go out Saturday morning,
June 24th, to accompany any who may desire to take advantage of this
opportunity to visit the Fruit Breeding Farm in a body. There are many
things of interest there, the special timely feature at this season
being the fruiting of a large field of No. 3 strawberries, which variety
gives promise of being the coming commercial berry of the Northwest.
ENTRIES.--All entries must be received by the secretary not
later than Monday, June 19th. No entries whatever will be received at
the meeting. The exhibitors are urged to send in their entries at as
early a date as possible, under no circumstances later than the date
noted above. Entry blanks will be furnished by the secretary on
application.
EXHIBITS.--All exhibits must be in place and properly labeled
by 11:30 a.m. to compete for premiums. The exhibitors must be members of
the society and growers of the articles exhibited. Any one may become a
member upon payment of the annual fee of $1.00.
Fruits and flowers shown become the property of the association.
Premium List, Summer Meeting, 1916.
No Duplicating of Varieties Permitted.
OUT-DOOR ROSES.
1st prem. 2d prem. 3d prem. 4th prem.
Collection--three blooms of each
named variety, to be shown in
separate vases $6.00 $4.00 $2.00 $1.00
Collection of named varieties--three
blooms of each, in separate vases,
amateurs only 6.00 4.00 2.00 1.00
Three named varieties, white--each
variety in a separate vase, three
blooms of each, each bloom on a
separate stem 2.00 1.00 .50
Three named varieties, pink--each
variety in a separate vase, three
blooms of each, each bloom on a
separate stem 2.00 1.00 .50
Three named varieties, red--each
variety in a separate vase, three
blooms of each, each bloom on a
separate stem 2.00 1.00 .50
Collection of Rugosa and Rugosa
Hybrids--each variety (consisting
of one cluster of blooms on a single
stem) in a separate vase 2.00 1.00 .50
Most beautiful rose in vase 1.00
Largest rose in vase 1.00
Seedling rose to be shown by the
originator. (Not previously
exhibited in competition.) Bronze
medal donated by the American
Rose Society.
Basket of out-door roses and
foliage, arranged for effect without
ribbon, not to exceed twelve inches
in diameter 3.00 2.00 1.00
The following named varieties of roses to be entered separately and
shown in separate vases, three to five blooms in each vase.
Prince Camile deRohan, General Jacqueminot, Margaret Dickson, M.P.
Wilder, Jules Margottin, Magna Charta, Paul Neyron, Madam Gabriel
Luizet, Baroness Rothschild, Anna de Diesbach, Ulrich Brunner, John
Hopper, Rosa Rugosa (pink and white), Baron deBonstetten, Karl Druski,
Madam Plantier, Grus an Teplitz.
Each, 1st prem., 75 cents; 2nd prem., 50 cents; 3rd prem., 25 cents.
PEONIES.
1st prem. 2d prem. 3d prem. 4th prem.
Vase of Festiva Maxima. 6 blooms $2.00 $1.00 $0.50
" " flesh or light pink " " " " "
" " medium or dark pink " " " " "
" " white " " " " "
" " red " " " " "
Collection--three blooms of each named
variety in separate vases $6.00 $4.00 $2.00 $1.00
Collection--three blooms of each named
variety in separate vases, amateurs only 6.00 4.00 2.00 1.00
Seedling peony, three blooms 3.00 2.00 1.00 .50
Collection--one bloom of each variety,
shown each in a separate vase; for
amateurs owning no more than ten
varieties 2.00 1.00 .50
ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS.
Vase of Arabis $1.50 $1.00 $0.50
" " Canterbury Bells " " "
" " Dielytra " " "
" " Delphinium " " "
" " Evening primrose (Oenothera) " " "
" " Forget-me-not " " "
" " Foxglove " " "
" " Gailardias " " "
" " Grass pinks " " "
" " Iceland poppies " " "
" " Iris " " "
" " Lillies " " "
" " Lupine " " "
" " Nasturtiums " " "
" " Oriental poppies " " "
" " Pansies " " "
" " Perennial coreopsis " " "
" " Pyrethrum " " "
" " Shasta daisies " " "
" " Sweet peas " " "
" " Sweet william " " "
Collection--named perennials, in
separate vases $6.00 $4.00 $2.00 $1.00
Collection of annuals and perennials
in separate vases (not to exceed 12)
by amateurs who have never taken
premiums on flowers 4.00 3.00 2.00 1.00
Vase of flowers grown and exhibited
by child 2.00 1.00 .50
Vase of any kind of flowers not named
in this list. (An exhibitor may make
any number of entries desired under
this head) 2.00 1.00 .50
Vase of flowers arranged for
artistic effect 1.50 1.00 .50
Basket of outdoor-grown flowers,
arranged by exhibitor 3.00 2.00 1.00
STRAWBERRIES.
One quart of each variety to be shown on plate, not in box.
1st prem. 2d prem. 3d prem. 4th prem.
Collection (not less than six
varieties) $5.00 $4.00 $3.00 $2.00
Collection of three named varieties 3.00 2.00 1.00 .50
The following varieties of strawberries to be entered separately:
1st prem. 2d prem. 3d prem. 4th prem.
Bederwood, Dunlap, Cresent,
Splendid, Clyde, Warfield, Lovett,
Enhance, Glen Mary, Haverland,
Progressive, Superb, Americus, each 1.00 $0.75 $0.50 $0.25
Best named variety not included in
the above list 2.00 1.00 .50
Seedling's, originated by exhibitor 3.00 2.00 1.00
GARDEN HELPS
Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society
Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So.
Minneapolis.
_Photographic contest_--Open to all members of the Garden Flower
Society.
Class I. Photograph showing best garden arrangement or planting effect.
List of flowers and shrubs to accompany picture.
First prize--Twenty-five perennial plants.
Second prize--Twelve iris.
Class II. Photograph showing individual plant in bloom. A growing plant
in bloom will be preferred to one in a vase.
First prize--Twenty-five perennial plants.
Second prize--Twelve iris.
Class III. Photograph showing wild flower in bloom. Directions governing
Class II to be followed.
First prize--Twenty-five perennial plants.
Second prize--Twelve dahlia tubers.
Any number of pictures may be entered in each class, but only one prize
in each class will be given an exhibitor.
When possible have photographs 5x7 inches or 4x5 inches, although size
will not bar an otherwise meritorious picture. Photographs in Classes I
and II should be confined to the garden of the exhibitor.
All pictures are to be in the hands of our secretary by November first,
and are to become the property of the society. The prizes will be
delivered the following spring. The pictures will be on exhibition at
our annual meeting in December.
* * * * *
These directions in The Garden Magazine are so good they are quoted
verbatim:
NEXT TO SEED PLANTING the most important part of the gardener's
work is skill in the technique of transplanting. How often do you hear
concerning some gardener, that if he "only touches a thing, it is bound
to live?" There is no "king's touch" in the garden game. People who
"love" plants are more successful with them, merely because such persons
take greater care in handling them. The first essential in transplanting
is to have good plants. They should be well hardened off (see March
Reminder, covering cold-frames); this applies to plants in flats and in
pots even more than to those growing in frames. In buying plants, select
stocky, compact, dark colored ones in preference to very large ones.
PREPARE THE SOIL as carefully as though you intended to sow
seeds. Mark out the rows, and if fertilizer is to be used, mix it
thoroughly with the soil before beginning transplanting. Then prepare
the plants carefully. Unless they are very small, cut back the largest
leaves about one-half with an old pair of scissors. With a small trowel
or an old knife, cut them out of the frame or flat in which they are
growing, keeping as much soil as possible with each. (If not in flats,
cut them out as you use them in the garden.) If they are in pots, knock
them out carefully and pack into flat for convenience in handling. Paper
pots, which produce the best plants, are not removed before planting.
Water thoroughly the day before planting, so that the soil will be in
the best condition for handling; but for several days before planting,
it is well to keep the plants "on the dry side," as they will then
re-establish themselves more quickly when set out.
(To be continued)
ENTOMOLOGICAL NOTES
By F. L. WASHBURN, Professor of Entomology.
University of Minnesota.
A SILVER PRUNE IN BLOOM AT MINNETONKA.
May 19, 1916.--The writer has a small silver prune grafted on hardy
root, which he obtained from Mr. Arrowood, Nevis, Minn., now in bloom at
his experimental garden at Minnetonka--not many flowers, it is true, but
in bloom just the same. This tree is not more than two feet high, and
was somewhat protected by a rabbit protector and high snow. Other plums
in the Entomologist's orchard, (one acre) are now nearly full of bloom:
Hanska, Skuya, Opata and other Hansen hybrids, as well as trial plums
from the University fruit breeding farm.
We have top worked this spring Hibernals, and Patten's Greenings with
Stark's Delicious, Grimes Golden, King David and Johnathan.
One-half of this land slopes sharply to the north and the other half
more gently to the south, clay, loam with clay subsoil, offering
favorable conditions for orchard work as well as work with grapes, small
fruits and vegetables.
Of grapes we have started Concord, Worden, Moore's Early, Agawam,
Brighton, Iona, Lindley, Salem, Barry, Herbert, Isabella, Green
Mountain, and others.
We have even had the temerity to try Loganberries from the Pacific
coast, and have some in fruit at present. A heavy covering of soil next
winter will possibly protect these plants during the cold weather.
THE WHITE PINE BLISTER RUST IN MINNESOTA.
This disease has just been found on a few White Pines in two Minnesota
nurseries. The trees in one of these nurseries came from Wisconsin,
shipped into that state from the east. Absolute identification has been
furnished by the Plant Pathology Division of the Agricultural College.
The state entomologist has already in the field a force of men who will
inspect every nursery in the state where white pines are grown.
THE ENGLISH SPARROW PEST.
We have experienced some success in the use of a sparrow trap, catching
from 11 to 25 in half a day. It must be noted, however, that this does
not occur every day, and further, that the young birds are most easily
caught. Both old and young evidently learn to avoid the trap. Another
party who has used this trap also reports success even greater than
ours. Other parties report an average catch of ten birds a day for
nearly four months. One can also, if on a farm, resort to shooting them
singly, or, better, when gathered together feeding. In fact, they may be
baited with grain for a few days (preferably in the fall or winter) and
previous to the use of the shotgun. This accustoms them to gathering in
a close flock. Eggs and nests may be repeatedly destroyed, if placed
within reach. A well-directed stream of water from a hose is helpful in
making them desert their roosts, at least for a while.
Dearborn (Farmers' Bulletin No. 493, U.S. Dept. of Agr.) describes a
nest-box trap. Sparrows may also be poisoned, but this calls for extreme
care. In this case it is interesting to learn that one experimenter fed
a large number of sparrows killed by poisoning to a pet cat with no ill
effects to the latter.
We have picked them from cornices upon our house at dusk with the aid of
a small collecting gun or pistol, firing a very light charge of shot,
but found that the shot marred the house, and were therefore obliged to
discontinue the practice.
In addition to trapping sparrows with approved sparrow traps the
following recipe has recently come to our notice:
"Feed good cracked corn a few days; then substitute poisoned cracked
corn made as follows: Soak one quart of cracked corn in water; take it
out and let it get about half dry. Dissolve one ounce of strychnia in
hot water. Soak corn in this until it swells and then dry completely."
BEE-KEEPER'S COLUMN.
Conducted by FRANCIS JAGER, Professor of Apiculture, University
Farm, St. Paul.
COMB HONEY, EXTRACTED HONEY, AND INCREASE.
(Continued from May No.)
Colonies run for comb honey are very much inclined to swarm. Swarming
with the resulting division of forces is incompatible with profitable
comb honey production. The colony must be kept together for best
results. The following methods are used by well known beekeepers.
1. At the beginning of the honey flow let the colony cast a natural
swarm. After hiving the bees on starters or full sheets of foundation
and giving them a little brood to prevent them from swarming out again,
the swarm is put in the place of the parent colony, which is removed to
one side two or three feet. The seventh day the old colony is moved over
to the opposite side of the swarm two or three feet. Two weeks after,
all the bees are shaken in front of the swarm, and the hive with wax and
honey removed. Thus the desire of bees for swarming has been satisfied,
and the colony is still working together.
2. Make a shaken swarm. During the dandelion honey flow add an
extracting super to your comb raising colony to give bees room to store.
At the beginning of the honey flow set the whole hive a little aside and
put a new bottom board on the place thus vacated. On this bottom board
place the extracting super from your colony. Find the frame with the
queen and put it in the middle of this new brood chamber, bees and all.
Then shake all the bees from the old brood chamber into the new. The
brood in the old hive thus left orphans may be piled up on top of some
weaker colony in your yard who will take care of it. Five such supers
with brood may be piled on top of one such colony, and they will be the
strongest in the yard for storing extracted honey during the basswood or
other late honey flow. This honey will be very handy for feeding your
bees in the fall and spring. Now add a comb honey super to your shaken
swarm. Add more supers when necessary, below before July 4th, on top
after that date. Remove all comb honey supers at once at the end of the
honey flow to have them white and clean.
3. When your colony is very strong at the beginning of the honey
flow--about June 10th--remove the queen, either by killing her or by
starting a new colony with her with two frames of brood. The seventh day
cut out all queen cells but one--be sure not to leave two. This will
re-queen your apiary, will prevent swarming for that season, will put a
large number of bees into the field--there being no larvae to feed, will
prevent thousands of bees from being hatched after they are of no use as
gatherers of honey, and the honey needed for raising those bees will go
into the supers.
(Continued in July No.)
SECRETARY'S CORNER
NOTICE OF SUMMER MEETING will be found on pages 257-259 of this
magazine. Don't overlook it--and be sure to come. Great show of flowers
and a fine day is assured--that is our record to date.
THE SECRETARY'S OFFICE during the summer month, will be open as
usual except Saturday afternoon, but the secretary will be in regularly
only on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
THE STATE ENTOMOLOGISTS REPORT ON NURSERY INSPECTION in 1915
has been issued as circular No. 37. It contains a list of all inspected
nurseries in the state; and also six full page photographs illustrating
the nursery industry in Minnesota. Copies can be obtained by writing
F.L. Washburn, St. Anthony Park, Minn.
A GOOD YIELD OF EVERBEARING STRAWBERRY PLANTS.--Mr. J. J.
Kunkel, of Kimball, Minn., writes under date of May 13th: "The three
everbearing strawberry plants I received of you in 1915 made about 250
young plants, of which I replanted this spring about 200. We had a few
berries, but did not expect berries as we let all runners grow."
Who has done better than that in growing No. 1017 everbearing strawberry
plants?
A FARMER ON THE BOARD OF REGENTS.--We are much pleased to note
the appointment of a real farmer in the person of C. W. Glotfelter, of
Waterville, as a member of the Board of Regents of the Minnesota State
University. Mr. Glotfelter is well known throughout the state as late
president of the Minnesota State Agricultural Society, and is at present
occupying the same position with the Minnesota Crop Breeders'
Association. He is a farmer in every sense, as he lives upon a farm
which he has himself worked personally a great many years. We feel that
the horticultural and agricultural interests of the state are especially
well cared for by this board in having Mr. Glotfelter in its membership.
WYMAN ELLIOT'S CONTRIBUTION TO THE LIBRARY.--A short time since
Mrs. Elliot, widow of the late Wyman Elliot, sent to this office as a
contribution to our library all of the horticultural and agricultural
books which belonged to Mr. Elliot. There were in all 397 volumes,
nearly all of them bound in cloth. The larger portion of these were
reports of other horticultural and agricultural societies, most of which
the Horticultural Society already had in the library. There were,
however, some forty or fifty very valuable reference books, or books on
specific subjects of a horticultural character, and a considerable
number of reports of other societies which we did not have, in all
amounting to seventy-seven volumes. These have been placed mostly in two
cases by themselves which will be marked with Mr. Elliot's name, and, of
course, each one of these volumes has an inscription of similar
character on the fly leaf. The remainder of these books, 320 in number,
are being sent to University Farm library for use there as far as they
need them, and they will be likely to know where to place to advantage
any that they have no personal use for. There are plenty of libraries in
the state that would be glad indeed to receive some of these volumes,
and we hope that in this way Mr. Elliot's name will appear in the
catalog of many of our public libraries.
NEW LIFE MEMBERS.--There have been quite a number of names
added to the life membership roll of the society during the year 1916
and since the last public record was made of this sort. The names of the
following persons have now been added to the permanent roll of the
society: Ludvig Lima, Montevideo; Mrs. Florence Burlingame, Grand
Rapids; A.L. Negstad, Arlington, S.D.; C. P. Bratnober, 1419 Harmon
Place, Minneapolis; Miss Anna M. Johnson, Lafayette; H. J. Appleby,
Minneiska; Hans M. Johnson, Pipestone; Christ Effertz, Norwood; O.J.
Oyen, Watson; F.E. Older, California State Normal School, Los Angeles,
Cal.; Erick Sparre, Elk River; E. H. Mazey, 3029 Ewing So., Minneapolis.
There is still room in this list for others, and why not instead of
paying annual membership year after year make one payment and have done
with it?
RESOLUTION ABOUT STATE FLOWER.--The following resolution was
unanimously adopted at a meeting of the Minnesota Garden Flower Society,
held during the annual session of the State Horticultural Society, in
December last.
Resolved, That whereas, The State of Minnesota has adopted a
state flower, which, on account of its being a native of the
woods and bogs, is not generally known or recognized, and
Whereas, The State of Minnesota in 1893 adopted by legislative
vote a state flag, which emblem is not generally known to the
residents of the state, and believing that familiarity with the
state flower and the state flag will do good and create loyalty
to the state and union;
Be It Resolved, That we, the Minnesota State Horticultural
Society, do hereby petition and pray the state legislature of
Minnesota, to have printed an attractive picture of the state
flower and the state flag, properly framed, and present it to
the high schools of the state, with the request that it be
placed upon the wall of their assembly room.
Also, that it be furnished free of cost, to such other public
buildings as may be deemed advisable.
PROGRAM, "FARMERS' WEEK."--During "Farmers' Week" at University
Farm, January 1-7, 1917, there will be scheduled several conferences
which fruit and vegetable growers should find of value to them in their
work. These conferences deal with all of the problems of the grower, but
special afternoons are given to the small fruits, the tree fruits, and
vegetables. Next January will be the third conference of the fruit
growers, the second for the vegetable growers, and the first for the
small fruit growers as a separate branch of the fruit work.
Mr. W. G. Brierly, Chairman of the Division of Horticulture, University
Farm, is working on programs for these conferences for next January. He
will be very glad to have any one interested write to him for
information or to suggest topics for discussion. The program for the
vegetable growers' conference will be drawn up by a joint committee from
the St. Paul and Minneapolis vegetable growers, working with Mr.
Brierly. The committee is planning to meet at the time of the summer
meeting of the Horticultural Society and will, of course, welcome any
suggestions as to topics and speakers.
These conferences are for all growers interested and are free to all.
There has been some difficulty heretofore in that very few suggestions
as to program have been offered by the growers themselves. If you have
any problems or matters which you would like to have discussed at these
conferences, now is the time to make your suggestions.
[Illustration: SOUTH END OF EXHIBITION HALL AT LATE SUMMER
MEETING. The flower exhibit is mostly in north end of hall, and not
showing in this picture.]
While it is not the intention to publish anything in this
magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be
remembered that the articles published herein recite the
experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must
always be noted in estimating their practical value.
THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST
Vol. 44 JULY, 1916 No. 5
My Neighbor's Roses
The roses red upon my neighbor's vine
Are owned by him, but they are also mine,
His was the cost, and his the labor, too,
But mine, as well as his, the joy their loveliness to view.
They bloom for me, and are to me as fair
As for the man who gives them all his care.
Thus I am rich, because a good man grew
A rose-clad vine for all his neighbors' view.
I know from this that others plant for me,
And what they own, my joy may also be.
So why be selfish, when so much that's fine
Is grown for you, upon your neighbor s vine!
--_Anon_
SUMMER MEETING, 1916.
Minnesota State Horticultural Society
A Joint Session with its Auxiliaries, the Minnesota State
Garden Flower Society, the Minnesota State Bee-Keepers Society
and the Minnesota State Florists Society.
A. W. LATHAM, SECY.
There seems to be something almost uncanny in the unbroken sequence of
pleasant days that have greeted the annual summer meeting of the
Horticultural Society in the last quarter of a century. For days before
this meeting it seemed assured that we should this year at least have an
unpleasant day for our gathering, and even the day before and night
before were most unfavorable. Friday morning, June 23rd, however, opened
up bright and beautiful, warm and pleasant, as nature can smile, and
continued so throughout the day. The meeting was in accord with these
favorable circumstances, and I believe brought out more and better
flowers and more, though no better, people, both as exhibitors and in
attendance, than any previous similar gathering the association has
held.
The exhibition was installed in the new gymnasium at University Farm, a
room sufficiently large so that it not only accommodated the exhibition
with wide aisle space, but also found plenty of room for the placing of
chairs for the afternoon meeting. Tables were arranged around three
sides of the hall, which were used for the displays of perennials and
roses. The peonies were shown on several tables in the north center of
the hall and besides these there were exhibits of some of the choicest
of the peonies made upon the floor, so arranged that visitors could walk
amongst them and look down upon them and see them at their best. One
table was occupied with the strawberry exhibit, which, however, was a
small one on account of the lateness of the season, though the
Fruit-Breeding Farm showed some forty or fifty plates of No. 3, the new
June-bearing berry of such large popularity, and a few everbearers. The
number of entries was, I believe, in excess of any previous meeting,
amounting altogether to 521. Most of the old exhibitors at our summer
meeting were present and some few of the newer ones. The effort which
was made this year to secure a completed exhibit at 11:30 proved to be a
success, and by the lunch hour the judges had gotten well along with
their work and the hall was opened to the public to inspect the display.
At 12:00 o'clock or thereabouts the members and their friends gathered
upon the lawn near the station dining hall, where there were plenty of
trees and green grass, and partook of the noon repast, for which purpose
the station provided coffee and also lemonade, the latter a new feature
in our bill of fare.
The regular afternoon meeting was held at 2:00 o'clock in the same hall
in which the exhibit was placed. This was largely attended, some two or
three hundred taking advantage of the opportunity to listen to those who
found place on this extempore program. Our society reporter took some
notes of what transpired at the meeting, but they were only partial
notes, and what here follows in regard to what took place is only in the
nature of extracts.
President Cashman was in the chair as usual and in a few words extended
greeting to the society saying, amongst other things:
"This occasion is always looked forward to with a great deal of
pleasure. We meet those engaged in similar lines of work, we discuss the
problems with which we have to contend, our joys and our sorrows. We
come here to meet our friends--and my experience has been that there are
no truer or more loyal friends than those found amongst the
horticulturists. The true horticulturist is a lover of nature, a lover
of the beautiful and all that goes with it. He looks for nothing except
the best that can be found in human kind. Such are the men and women
that belong to the Horticultural Society."
As representing the University Farm, whose hospitality in a large sense
the society was enjoying, Dean Woods gave us a hearty welcome in his
happy way, and what follows is typical of the kindly things he said: "We
always have pleasant days and pleasant memories because those who study
flowers and fruits and the beauties of nature are the ones from whom one
can get inspiration to understand and to know what nature means. Any one
who can listen to the sounds of nature, any one who can see in flowers
the spirit of life struggling upwards has the true spirit of the
horticulturist and is always welcome here."
Mr. A. Brackett, of Excelsior, being called upon, had something to say
about strawberry culture, and in the course of his remarks showed
several plates of different varieties of strawberries. What follows is
the substance of his talk on this subject. "We have here what we call
the No. 3 strawberry produced at the Experimental Farm. I believe from
my experience that it is going to take the place of all of our common
June-bearing strawberries. It is a deep rooter, fine large plant and a
nice, solid berry, and I have never seen any blight or rust on the
plants. I think that it will pay for all the expense that has ever been
paid out for the farm, that one berry will pay for it, it will be of
that much value to the people of Minnesota. The everbearing strawberry
has come to stay, and for private use you do not need to plant any other
variety. The everbearing strawberry will ripen its fruit at least a week
ahead of almost any other berry we have, and then it will continue
bearing until the frost kills it. I had at least twenty bushels of fruit
from my plants last year, and I secured from one-quarter acre
fifty-three cases and sold them at $4.80 a case. They talk about what
they can raise in California, but we can do better here, and I believe
if you will stick to these three varieties, the Americus, Superb and
Progressive, you will not need to plant any other variety. The Americus
has the best flavor but it isn't as large. Of the Superb nearly all of
the berries are large, very few small ones, but they haven't got the
flavor.
"There is one thing about this new strawberry, it can not bear the year
around, that is, during the summer, unless the ground is very rich. I
think I put on one-half acre of the everbearing strawberries twenty-five
loads of fertilizer. You have got to make the ground rich to carry these
plants through and produce the berries. I use a narrow row on the hill
system. I cut my rows down in the spring, dig up the plants and leave
the row four inches wide and plants six inches apart. This brings more
berries and better plants."
Prof. C. B. Waldron, of Fargo, N.D., horticulturist at the Fargo
Agricultural College for a quarter century, who has rarely missed being
with us at any summer gathering, being called upon, among other things
said: "There are a good many things that affiliate people together in
groups of one kind or another. It used to be that if people had the same
belief about eternal punishment, etc., that they would group themselves
together, but nowadays we find people grouping themselves according to
more natural methods. I think people grouping themselves together for a
common love of trees, fruits and flowers makes a more natural bond of
affiliation, and when I find a man that knows the names of many of our
beautiful flowers I feel drawn to him at once. I can't seem to tire of
that person's company, no matter what political party he belongs to.
These things that I speak of seem to be a more natural and harmonious
relationship to build our friendship upon than almost anything else. I
know that I always look forward days and weeks ahead to meetings like
this, where I can meet with people who love and admire and cherish the
things that I find my greatest delight in."
The superintendent of the Fruit-Breeding Farm, Mr. Chas. Haralson, spoke
briefly of the work at the Fruit-Breeding Farm, which he is conducting
with such distinguished success. His statement was altogether too brief
when one knows the vast amount of detail work that is being done there
in development of new fruits: "The work at the Fruit-Breeding Farm is
carried on just the same as usual. We are working on strawberries,
plums, apples, grapes somewhat and several other fruits like
gooseberries and currants. The best success we have had so far in the
new varieties is with strawberries, raspberries and plums. It takes only
a few years to run through a generation of these, and we can get them
selected quicker than apples. The plum crop is very light this year,
especially on the hybrid plums, on account of winter-killing, that is,
the buds killed during the winter. They never did that before, but this
year they have done it to a great extent. The strawberry crop is very
good and so are the raspberries now coming on. Probably as many as 2,000
apple seedling trees are bearing this year, so we will have a little
chance for selection in the line of apples. In grapes we are working
with most of the seedlings from the Beta and some hybrids, and we have a
few of the Beta seedlings that are very good. One red variety compares
favorably with any of the cultivated varieties. It is perfectly hardy so
far. And we have two or three varieties of black nearly as large as
Moore's Early or Concord.
"We also have a number of seedlings of pears, but we are not very far
advanced with them yet. Pears stand the winter fairly well, although
they winter-kill to a certain extent. When they are weakened through the
winter and growth starts in the spring they blight. Blight is the worst
part of our work with pears."
Prof. R. S. Mackintosh, of University Farm, was caught on the floor, and
as usual took opportunity to tell people they ought to eat more apples
and something about how to get them. This seems to be a subject that is
ever in his mind and which he is persistently working to good advantage.
"You folks that are hungry and want apples or apple pie want to get busy
about the middle of August and eat up your surplus apples in Minnesota.
It is a shame that farmers, fruit growers, etc., have spent years trying
to grow apples in Minnesota and then we cannot get enough people to eat
the apples. We are going to carry on the clearing house as we did last
year, and if you want apples let us know. We can grow apples the same as
we can grow peonies and strawberries, but it is a little hard to get
them distributed properly."
Mr. A. M. Brand, of Faribault, who had an extraordinary exhibit of
seedling peonies at the meeting, pronounced by our peony expert, Mr.
C.S. Harrison, "second to none in the world," was introduced and talked
briefly along the line of seedling peony production, as follows: "There
is a great deal of encouragement in what we have been able to
accomplish down there at Faribault along the line of producing something
fine in peonies. Sixteen years ago we started out with the idea of
improving upon the stock that we already have. We had a little red
peony, a very nice peony, originated by Mr. Terry down in Iowa, called
Rachel, and starting out with that as a mother plant we have produced
some of the finest roots that there are in cultivation. By using lots of
the seed of Rachel we have been able to produce this Mary Brand,
considered by many of the peony growers as one of the finest red peonies
in the world. A great many people that raise nice peonies think they
have to go to the trouble of hand fertilization. That isn't necessary.
We started out with such varieties as Rachel, and by letting the bees
and the elements do the fertilizing for us we were able to produce
varieties like this. Here is the new seedling that we brought out this
year and named Ruth--a pink peony. As a rule we plant about a peck of
seed every year, and out of that peck of seed it probably brings us
10,000 seedlings, and out of this 10,000 we get one good seedling, and
this is the only good seedling that we have produced this year. This is
a seedling that comes from Rosa Fragrans. When we picked this seedling
from the bed of seedlings we considered this the finest seedling that we
had, and it has never come good from that time to this, and it is ten
years since we have been trying this seedling, which will show you when
you are growing seedlings that the first time a seedling blossoms and
comes splendid you mustn't be too enthusiastic about it. The next year
it may be worth nothing. You have got to try a seedling in every way to
find out whether it is worth sending out. As a rule it takes us ten
years from the time that a seedling first blossoms until we send it out.
Ninety per cent of all the peony seedlings that you grow will be
singles, one out of 10,000 seedlings will be fair and one out of 100,000
seedlings will be extra good--so you see that those which we have
produced give us some encouragement. I wouldn't advise many of you to go
into the seedling business, although you might produce one good seedling
out of a handful of seed.
"If you plant a peony on the lawn you have to fertilize it heavily. You
can't have your lawn right up to the stalks of the peony. If you want a
peony on the lawn you must give it two feet of ground. Most of the
peonies that are brought here are taken out of fields that are
cultivated with a horse cultivator. If you want your flowers on the lawn
and don't want to cultivate them you have to use lots of fertilizer. You
must not use too much. Fertilize heavy about once in three years. Don't
fertilize every fall. Fertilize in the fall, and the next spring spade
the manure in and then don't use any manure for three or four years.
Plant peonies any time from the first of September until the time it
freezes up and plant any time in the spring until the growth starts on
the plants. If you plant in the spring you are just six months ahead of
planting in the following September, though September is really the
best time to plant. If a peony clump becomes old, as large around as a
tub, and you still want it to stand in the same place I would cut out
half of the stalks as they come up, and then to get still larger
blossoms after the stalks have come up I would pinch the side buds
also."
[Illustration: A fringe of peonies at the summer exhibit.]
Mrs. Crawford, of Indiana, a peony grower of much experience there, who
came to Minneapolis for the purpose of attending our flower meeting, we
understand, told us something about how peonies are grown in her
section, an interesting and practical talk, part of which follows: "In
Indiana we have a sour, black clay soil. We fertilize with crushed
limestone and leaves. I fertilize with the leaves that fall in the
autumn after the leaves have begun to rot. I cover them without cutting
the tops. Then in the spring when they begin to bud we go over them on
our knees and work the leaves all in with a trowel. I have 3,000 plants,
but with the assistance of the men we have we get it done, and grow fine
peonies. In regard to manure, I never feel that I can put any fertilizer
within two feet. The rows are from three to four feet apart. We never
use any fertilizer that will come in contact with the stems, as when the
flowers are cut off it leaves the stem hollow, and if the manure gets in
the stem it works down the stem into the roots and leaves a hollow root
in time. We never use in our part of the state any fertilizer that will
come in contact with the stems except leaves. When the streets are
cleaned in the fall I pile the leaves on the back lot. I have fourteen
or fifteen loads hauled in. This is scattered over the peonies. I want
to compliment you on having very fine peonies, some of them finer than I
have ever seen, and I hope you will all be as enthusiastic about raising
peonies as I am. Is it necessary to burn the tops when they are cut off?
I consider that the ashes from the tops aid in fertilizing. I pile them
up in little piles and burn them and sprinkle the ashes over the
peonies. Frequently when I dig around a peony and I feel that the soil
has become exhausted I throw in a handful of garden peas, and when they
get about a foot high I spade them under for fertilizer."
Mr. D. W. C. Ruff, of St. Paul, had a wonderful showing of peonies of
named varieties, most of them very expensive from a money standpoint,
they having cost him prices varying from $5.00 to $40.00 a root, and
judging by the character of the flowers which he held up for the
audience while he talked about them they were well worth the money. I
regret that we are unable to give a verbatim report of his talk, with
the names of the varieties, but this information must be secured from
him at some later time. In part he said:
"I have spent the last fifteen years in making a good
collection of peonies. I have gone all over the world for
peonies and have brought together some of the finest peonies
from all the noted growers and horticulturists. In my
collection I have over 400 hundred varieties, that is, what I
am growing at my home. I have brought here today of course a
great many peonies of the later varieties. I have brought these
here from an educational standpoint so that the people might
see some of the rare ones that they might have heard about or
read about and see them and know of these varieties. Last year
I made an exhibit and showed hundreds of them. This year I have
brought just a few choice things."
Rev. C. S. Harrison spoke in his usual inspiring way, but with such force
and speed that our stenographer was unable to pick him up, which we
sincerely regret. We all know Mr. Harrison as an enthusiast in flowers.
He has met with us year after year at both annual gatherings. While he
is eighty-three years old yet what he has to say and the way he says it
still have the ring and inspiration of youth. He proposed the
organization of a peony society for the Northwest, and a show of hands
indicating there was material present to perfect such an organization
the plans were laid therefor. Our reporter got this far:
"I have attended the national peony shows of Boston and New York, and
they cannot hold a candle to your peonies, mark that! There is
something in your soil and in your climate which brings them to the
front."
Prof. F. L. Washburn was to tell us something about the white pine
blister rust, but he failed to inflict upon us a long technical talk,
and from what he said all the reporter got was this, from which however
one could well judge what was in his thought. "We have found in
Minnesota a disease on the white pine called the 'white pine blister
rust.' One stage of this disease is on the gooseberry or currant, that
is, we find it now on the white pine and going to the gooseberry or
currant. We went to the governor, state treasurer and state auditor and
obtained $1,000 for use in fighting this besides our regular
appropriation."
Mr. J. M. Underwood, of Lake City, without whom the program would be
incomplete, spoke a few closing words as follows: "We have had such a
splendid program, and I know you are anxious to look at these beautiful
flowers, and all I have time to say, and a disposition to say, is that I
think we owe a great obligation to the Garden Flower Society, a splendid
organization auxiliary to the State Horticultural Society. I think you
ought to all be members of that Garden Flower Society. It is a wonderful
working organization, and I think the ladies that are in charge of it
deserve a great deal of credit and should be complimented as being
foremost on the program. There is a great deal that I could say, but I
know there isn't time for it, and I thank you."
In the meantime many more visitors had come into the hall to view the
display, which continued on exhibition until 9:00 o'clock in the
evening. Prof. Cady, who had general charge of the arrangements at the
meeting, reports that at least one thousand people saw the display, and
we think that it was well worth while to have kept it open until that
hour. Representatives from a number of the hospitals were present after
the meeting and took the flowers away to be used to cheer the sick in
both Minneapolis and St. Paul.
The total amount of awards at this meeting were $178.75. A list of these
awards with the names of the judges follows in a separate article. No
one person took any large amount of premiums, they were well distributed
amongst a dozen and a number of others who received smaller amounts.
Mrs. H.B. Tillotson, who has a wonderful flower garden near Eureka, Lake
Minnetonka, received premiums of $17.00, which is the largest amount
paid to any one person, although there were a number of others who
received slightly smaller amounts.
Award of Premiums, Summer Meeting, 1916.
ROSES.
Collection, B. T. Hoyt, St. Paul, fourth premium, $1.00.
Collection named varieties, amateurs, Thos. Redpath, Wayzata, second
premium, $4.00.
Collection named varieties, amateurs, Mrs. H. B. Tillotson, Excelsior,
First premium, $6.00.
Collection named varieties, amateurs, Mrs. D. W. C. Ruff, St. Paul, third
premium, $2.00.
Three named varieties, white, Thos. Redpath, Wayzata, first
premium, $2.00.
Three named varieties, pink, Thos. Redpath, Wayzata, first
premium, $2.00.
Collection Rugosa and R. Hy., B. T. Hoyt, St. Paul, first premium, $2.00.
Most beautiful rose, Mrs. H. B. Tillotson, Excelsior, first
premium, $1.00.
Largest rose, Mrs. D. W. C. Ruff, St. Paul, first premium, $1.00.
Seedling, B. T. Hoyt, St. Paul, first premium, Bronze medal donated by
American Rose Society.
Basket outdoor roses arranged for effect, Mrs. H. B. Tillotson, Excelsior,
first premium, $3.00.
Basket outdoor roses arranged for effect, Mrs. D. W. C. Ruff, St. Paul,
second premium, $2.00.
Basket outdoor roses arranged for effect, Mrs. John Gantzer, St. Paul,
third premium, $1.00.
Mdm. Plantier, Thos. Redpath, Wayzata, first premium, $0.75.
Gen. Jack, B. T. Hoyt, St. Paul, first premium, $0.75.
Gen. Jack, Mrs. G. T. Brown, St. Paul, second premium, $0.50.
Magna Charta, Mrs. G. T. Brown, St. Paul, first premium, $0.75.
Ulrich Brunner, Mrs. G. T. Brown, St. Paul, first premium, $0.75.
Baroness Rothschild, Mrs. G. T. Brown, St. Paul, first premium. $0.75.
Mdm. Plantier, Mrs. G. T. Brown, St. Paul, second premium, $0.50.
AUG. S. SWANSON, Judge.
PEONIES.
Flesh or light pink, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, third premium, $0.50.
Medium or dark pink, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, third premium, $0.50.
White, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, second premium, $1.00.
Festiva Maxima, B. T. Hoyt, St. Paul, second premium, $1.00.
Medium or dark pink, B. T. Hoyt, St. Paul, second premium, $1.00.
Festiva Maxima, John E. Stryker, St. Paul, first premium, $2.00.
Light pink, John E. Stryker, St. Paul, second premium, $1.00.
Dark pink, John E. Stryker, St. Paul, first premium, $2.00.
Red, John E. Stryker, St. Paul, second premium, $1.00.
Flesh or light pink, D. W. C. Ruff, St. Paul, first premium, $2.00.
White, D. W. C. Ruff, St. Paul, first premium, $2.00.
Red, D. W. C. Ruff, St. Paul, first premium, $2.00.
Collection, 3 blooms, professional, B. T. Hoyt, St. Paul, first premium,
$6.00.
A. M. BRAND,
C. J. TRAXLER,
Judges.
Collection, three blooms, amateur, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, fourth
premium, $1.00.
Collection, three blooms, amateur, Mrs. H. B. Tillotson, Excelsior, third
premium, $2.00.
Collection, three blooms, amateur, John E. Stryker, St. Paul, first
premium, $6.00.
Collection, three blooms, amateur, Mrs. E. W. D. Holway, Excelsior, second
premium, $4.00.
OLAF J. OLSON, Judge.
Seedling, B. T. Hoyt, St. Paul, fourth premium, $0.50.
Seedling, Crimson No. 1, 1916, A. M. Brand, Faribault, third
premium, $1.00.
Seedling, Ruth, A. M. Brand, Faribault, first premium, $3.00.
Seedling, No. 245, A. M. Brand, Faribault, second premium, $2.00.
D. W. C. RUFF, Judge.
ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS.
Dielytra, F. H. Ellison, Minneapolis, third premium, $0.50.
Forget-me-nots, F. H. Ellison, Minneapolis, first premium, $1.50.
Gailardias, F. H. Ellison, Minneapolis, third premium, $0.50.
Grass Pinks, F. H. Ellison, Minneapolis, second premium, $1.00.
Iceland Poppies, F. H. Ellison, Minneapolis, second premium, $1.00.
Dielytra, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, first premium, $1.50.
Delphinium, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, third premium, $0.50.
Foxgloves, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, second premium, $1.00.
Grass Pinks, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, first premium, $1.50.
Delphinium, Mrs. H. B. Tillotson, Excelsior, second premium, $1.00.
Foxgloves, Mrs. H. B. Tillotson, Excelsior, third premium, $0.50.
Iris, Mrs. H. B. Tillotson, Excelsior, third premium, $0.50.
Gailardias, Guy C. Hawkins, Minneapolis, second premium, $1.00.
Dielytra, Anna E. Rittle, St. Paul, second premium, $1.00.
Iceland Poppies, Mrs. E. W. Gould, Minneapolis, third premium, $0.50.
Gailardia, E. A. Farmer, Minneapolis, first premium, $1.50.
Foxgloves, Mrs. J. F. Fairfax, Minneapolis, first premium, $1.50.
Iceland Poppies, Mrs. J. F. Fairfax, Minneapolis, first premium, $1.50.
Iris, Mrs. E. W. D. Holway, Excelsior, first premium, $1.50.
Delphinium, Mrs. H. A. Boardman, St. Paul, first premium, $1.50.
Forget-me-nots, Mrs. H. A. Boardman, St. Paul, third premium, $0.50.
Iris, John S. Crooks, St. Paul, second premium, $1.00.
Canterbury Bells, Mrs. Chas. Krause, Merriam Park, second premium, $1.00.
Grass Pinks, Mrs. Chas. Krause, Merriam Park, third premium, $0.50.
Canterbury Bells, J. A. Weber, Excelsior, first premium, $1.50.
Forget-me-nots, Vera P. L. Stebbins, second premium, $1.00.
Oriental Poppies, F. H. Ellison, Minneapolis, first premium, $1.50.
Pansies, F. H. Ellison, Minneapolis, first premium, $1.50.
Pyrethrum, F. H. Ellison, Minneapolis, second premium, $1.00.
Sweet Peas, F. H. Ellison, Minneapolis, first premium, $1.50.
Sweet William, F. H. Ellison, Minneapolis, second premium, $1.00.
Shasta Daisies, Elizabeth Starr, Excelsior, third premium, $0.50.
Lilies, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, third premium, $0.50.
Oriental Poppies, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, second premium, $1.00.
Pansies, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, second premium, $1.00.
Lilies, Guy C. Hawkins, Minneapolis, first premium, $1.50.
Perennial Coreopsis, Guy C. Hawkins, Minneapolis, first premium, $1.50.
Pyrethrum, Guy C. Hawkins, Minneapolis, first premium, $1.50.
Lupine, Mrs. E. W. Gould, Minneapolis, first premium, $1.50.
Shasta Daisies, Mrs. G. T. Brown, St. Paul, second premium, $1.00.
Sweet William, Mrs. J. F. Fairfax, Minneapolis, third premium, $0.50.
Lupine, Mrs. H. A. Boardman, St. Paul, third premium, $0.50.
Oriental Poppies, Mrs. H. A. Boardman, St. Paul, third premium, $0.50.
Pyrethrum, Mrs. H. A. Boardman, St. Paul, third premium, $0.50.
Shasta Daisies, Miss Flora Moeser, St. Louis Park, first premium, $1.50.
Lilies, Mrs. Chas. Krause, Merriam Park, second premium, $1.00.
Pansies, Mrs. Chas. Krause, Merriam Park, third premium, $0.50.
Lupine, Miss Marion Prest, St. Paul, second premium, $1.00.
Sweet William, J. A. Weber, Excelsior, first premium, $1.50.
JOHN HAWKINS,
JOHN A. JANSEN,
Judges.
Collection named perennials, J. A. Weber, Excelsior, first premium, $6.00.
Collection named perennials, F. H. Ellison, Minneapolis, second premium,
$4.00.
Collection named perennials, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, third premium,
$2.00.
MRS. H. A. BOARDMAN,
MRS. WM. CRAWFORD,
Judges.
Vase of flowers by child, Mrs. F. E. Kidd, Minneapolis,
first premium, $2.00.
Vase of flowers by child, Matilda Gantzer, St. Paul, second premium, $1.00.
MARTHA A. WYMAN, Judge.
Vase of any kind flowers, Mrs. Frank Moris, Lake Elmo, second premium,
$1.00.
Vase any kind flowers, Miss Marjorie Knowles, St. Paul, first premium,
$2.00.
Vase any kind flowers, Miss Flora Moeser, St. Louis Park, third premium,
$0.50.
J. A. Boies, Judge.
Vase of flowers arranged for artistic effect, Mrs. F. E. Kidd, Minneapolis,
second premium, $1.00.
Vase of flowers arranged for artistic effect, Mrs. S. A. Gile, Minneapolis,
first premium, $1.50.
Vase of flowers arranged for artistic effect, F. H. Ellison, Minneapolis,
third premium, $0.50.
Basket outdoor grown, Elizabeth Starr, Excelsior, third premium, $1.00.
Basket outdoor grown, Mrs. S. A. Gile, Minneapolis, second premium, $2.00.
Basket outdoor grown, Mrs. H. A. Boardman, St. Paul, first premium, $3.00.
M. EMMA ROBERTS,
CARRIE L. WILKERSON,
Judges.
STRAWBERRIES.
Collection, six varieties, H. G. Groat, Anoka, first premium, $5.00.
Collection, three named varieties, H. G. Groat, Anoka,
first premium, $3.00.
Collection, three named varieties, E. A. Farmer, Minneapolis,
second premium, $2.00.
Progressive, Mrs. H. B. Tillotson, Excelsior, first premium, $1.00.
Bederwood, H. G. Groat, Anoka, first premium, $1.00.
Dunlap, H. G. Groat, Anoka, second premium, $0.75.
Crescent, H. G. Groat, Anoka, first premium, $1.00.
Warfield, H. G. Groat, Anoka, first premium, $1.00.
Warfield, Mrs. M. A. Rohan, Minneapolis, second premium, $0.75.
Senator Dunlap, J. F. Bartlett, Excelsior, first premium, $1.00.
Minnesota No. 3, J. F. Bartlett, Excelsior, first premium, $1.00.
Minnesota No. 3, A. Brackett, Excelsior, second premium, $0.75.
Americus, A. Brackett, Excelsior, first premium, $1.00.
Progressive, A. Brackett, Excelsior, second premium, $0.75.
Superb, A. Brackett, Excelsior, first premium, $1.00.
Best named variety, Mrs. H. B. Tillotson, Excelsior, first premium, $2.00.
Best named variety, H. G. Groat, Anoka, second premium, $1.00.
Best named variety, Mrs. John Gantzer, St. Paul, third premium, $0.50.
Seedling, A. Brackett, Excelsior, first premium, $3.00.
THOMAS REDPATH, Judge.
Experiment Work of Chas. G. Patten, Charles City, Ia.
GEO. J. KELLOGG, LAKE MILLS, WIS.
June 6.--I have just spent four days with our friend Patten. He has
7,000 surprises on seventeen acres of experiment orchard dating back to
1868--every tree of the 7,000 has a history.
For twenty-eight years he has been working on the Chinese sand pear and
has brought out a race that is blight-proof, perfectly hardy and of good
size and quality. He is not yet satisfied, but has 5,000 cross-bred
seedlings of many crosses that are about three feet high, ready for
transplanting in orchard rows next spring--and he has not room to set
them. The state of Iowa does not appreciate his labor or value the work
he has done and is doing; they are not giving him the money or men to
carry on this work.
Beside the pear experiments he has hundreds of crosses of apples that
are very promising and just coming into bearing. These are scattered all
through that orchard of 7,000 trees, with the pears, and nearly as many
plum crosses. Some plums are heavily loaded this year that are of
wonderful value, and one of the great points is that they have escaped
the bad weather in blooming time, while all our standard varieties
failed--and I believe the hardiness of bloom will insure fruit on his
best kinds when others fail in bad weather.
He is breeding form of tree in all these fruits--see his paper in the
last volume of Iowa Hort. Report. His crop of apples is light, but many
crosses show some fruit. Some pears and plums are loaded. Eugene Secor
says, "Patten is greater than Burbank."
* * * * *
WINDBREAKS ON FARM PAY DIVIDENDS.--Windbreaks are usually more
or less ornamental on a farm, and add to the contentment of the owner.
But it is not generally known that windbreaks actually pay dividends. At
least studies made a few years ago in Nebraska and Kansas indicate that
windbreaks are profitable. The state forester will soon study their
influence in this state. It must be admitted that windbreaks occupy
space that could be profitably devoted to agricultural crops, and that
the roots of the trees and their shade render a strip of ground on
either side of the windbreak relatively unproductive. Yet in spite of
these drawbacks, efficient windbreaks undoubtedly do more good than
evil.
The windbreak reduces the velocity of the wind, and, consequently, the
loss of soil water from evaporation from the soil surface and from the
field crops. This is equivalent to additional rainfall, just as "a
dollar saved is a dollar made." It seems from investigations made by the
United States Forest Service that the greater yield of field crops and
apples behind the protection of a good windbreak is enough to warrant
every farmer in the prairie states in planting windbreaks.--W.J.
Morrill, Colo. Agri. College.
MIDSUMMER REPORTS, 1916.
Collegeville Trial Station.
REV. JOHN B. KATZNER, SUPT.
The weather conditions of last winter were not any too favorable for
plants and fruit trees. In fact the cold was at times severe and long
continued, reaching its maximum with 38 degrees below for one day. The
total subzero weather for the winter amounts to 489 degrees, of which
January figures with 285 and February with 168 degrees below. This is
some cold, no doubt, and yet our hardy fruit trees did not suffer. But
other trees not quite hardy suffered more than usual. This is
particularly noticeable on my German pear seedlings. The wood of the
branches as well as of the stem had turned black down to the ground. All
the imported European varieties of pears are dead and ready for the
brush pile. Prof. N.E. Hanson's hybrid pears have suffered just a
little. This, however, may be due to the unripe condition of the wood
rather than to cold. They had been grafted on strong German pear stock,
made a vigorous growth and were still growing when the frost touched
them. Another season they may be all right. All our cherry trees, too,
are almost dead and will be removed and their place used for a trial
orchard.
It was of great advantage to plants and trees that we had much snow,
giving them good protection in root and stem two feet up. But this deep
snow helped the rabbits also in reaching the lower branches of the apple
trees. They were very active during the winter months and did much
damage by biting off the buds and smaller twigs from those branches, but
did no injury to the bark of trees otherwise.
Spring was rather cold and late. Up to the middle of May there was not
much growth of any kind. But we started work at the station as soon as
the ground could be worked. Apple and plum grafts made last winter were
set out. The orchard was gone over and trees pruned where needed. The
grape vines were uncovered and tied up on the trellis. A liberal
dressing of manure was worked in around vines growing on poor soil. More
than a hundred Alpha grape vines were planted along a students' walk for
their future benefit. The everbearing strawberries were looked after and
a new bed was started. Some apple trees were planted in the orchard to
replace others. Quite a number of German pear seedlings were grafted
with hardy varieties an inch below ground. We expect this will give us
healthy and hardy trees and fruit in due time.
[Illustration: Patten's No. 108 in blossom at Collegeville Station.]
A friend of mine sent me from Los Angeles, Cal., four fine large cherry
trees: the Tartarian, Napoleon Bigarreau and Early Richmond. These are
one year old budded trees; they have made in the congenial climate of
California a growth of about eight feet and are an inch through the
stem. They arrived the first week in March. It was cold yet and the
ground covered with a foot of snow. As we could not plant them, we
applied water to the roots and kept the trees unpacked in the cool root
cellar till planting time. They are growing now, but next spring we
expect to see their finish. Another variety of sweet cherries was sent
to the trial station from the mountains of Pennsylvania and planted in
the nursery, but we expect that will meet the same fate. From the U.S.
Dept. of Agriculture we have obtained scions of a pear, No. 26485,
which were used in budding some German pear seedlings, as also ten
plants of Prunus Tomentosa No. 38856. This is a Chinese bush cherry, and
though the fruit is of little value, yet the plant is said to be quite
ornamental.
In forestry work 200 arbor vitae were set out, more for ornamental
effect, and in open places of the woods several thousand Scotch pine
were planted. This planting was also extended partly around the opposite
lake shore to improve the landscape during the winter months, when
everything looks bleak and dreary.
This station has received quite a liberal supply of new stock for trial
from the Minn. State Fruit-Breeding Farm, viz.: June bearing strawberry
No. 3, everbearing kind No. 1017, raspberry No. 4 and everbearing sorts
Nos. 30 and 31; of plums, Nos. 35, 9, 21, 1, and sand cherry crossed
with Climax; of apples, six Malindas, Nos. 38, 32, 29, 25, 12 and 12.
They are fine large trees and were planted in the trial orchard. Ten
smaller apple trees which we received were set out in the nursery and
after a year or two will find their place in the orchard. These trees
are labeled: Gilbert, Winesap, Russet Seedling, then Nos. 90, 271, 269,
16, 7045 and A1. All of this stock has been carefully planted and is now
doing well.
The only variety of fruit trees which bloomed before the 20th of May was
the Akin plum. Most all other trees were getting ready to bloom, but it
was really too cold for them to open their flowers. From that time on
the blooming became more general among the plums and later among the
apples. The trees which did not bear last year were full of flowers.
Some of the new plums, too, had quite a number of blossoms, and we are
watching with great interest what the fruit will be, as we intend to
propagate the best ones in a small way for home use.
Of small fruits we have now on trial five varieties of raspberries and
also three sorts of strawberries, Nos. 3, 4 and Progressive. This will
give us a good chance to judge of their relative value as to hardiness,
quality and quantity of fruit.
The truck garden is taken care of as usual, but is far behind other
years in growth and development of vegetables on account of the cold
spring. If it were not for our greenhouse and hotbeds, I think we would
yet be without radishes and lettuce.
The same may be said in regard to the planting of our lawns. The plants
were all ready in the greenhouse, but the planting had to be deferred as
long as there was danger of frost. The flower beds on the lawns were
finally planted, the designs are very good, but it will take some time
yet till their beauty can be seen and enjoyed.
Judging from present conditions, we may get a pretty good crop of
fruits. The time for the late spring frosts passed by without doing any
harm. The weather during blooming was favorable for setting a good crop
of apples and plums. The grapes, too, show up well and promise a good
crop, and the strawberries and currants are doing splendidly.
Jeffers Trial Station.
DEWAIN COOK, SUPT.
June 13.--_Plums_--Much rainy weather during the blooming period was
undoubtedly the main reason why the plum crop of 1916 will not amount to
very much. Only a few of the Americana have set any fruit whatever.
However, the Terry and the Wyants carry considerable fruit.
Of the Japanese hybrids the B.A.Q. and Emerald have set some fruit--also
the Stella. Of the hybrid plums originating at the Minnesota State
Fruit-Breeding Farm there are only a few scattering specimens on any of
them. Most of them have set no fruit whatever. Minn. No. 6, one tree, is
in a dying condition from winter-killing.
Hansen's hybrids have mostly set some fruit, but not freely. The Hanska,
Toka, Opata and Wohanka are among those varieties making the best
showing of fruit.
While in a general way we consider the rains during the blooming period
responsible for the almost failure of the 1916 plum crop, but, to be a
little more specific, the blight of the plum bloom, or rather the brown
rot fungus, was more generally prevalent and more generally destructive
than at any previous season. As for the fungous disease known as plum
pocket, we have not seen one this season. It has been entirely absent.
As for spraying to control the brown rot fungus, we have and are doing
the best we know. With the exception of about twenty-five large plum
trees that we have made into a hog pasture and could not get at very
well with our gasoline spraying outfit, we sprayed about all our plum
trees (and other fruit trees as well) twice before blooming, once just
as the fruit buds began to swell and again just before they bloomed,
with lime-sulphur solution. We are now spraying the third time, adding
arsenate of lead to the lime-sulphur.
Of grapes sent me from our State Fruit-Breeding Farm all varieties are
looking fine. The Beta we gave no winter protection, but all of the
others we covered with strawy manure. We did this as all the other
varieties winter-killed the first winter after planting, and we did not
like to take any chances with them.
Minn. No. 3 strawberry is doing itself proud. We consider it the best
all round variety we have ever grown and are planting almost exclusively
on our own farm.
The everbearing Minn. 1017 continues to hold place as first best. We set
out some 400 plants of this variety this spring, and they are making
runners freely. Judging from last season, we expect a large crop of
fine fruit from them next September, as well as a great quantity of new
plants.
Apples are in a very satisfactory condition. I need to say but little
about varieties. All kinds of bearing size bloomed full, and most kinds
have set full of fruit. Of such kinds as Okabena, Duchess and Wealthy,
it looks as though practically every blossom turned into an apple.
We received several seedling apple trees from Mr. Chas. Haralson, of the
State Fruit-Breeding Farm. They were all set out, and all are growing.
La Crescent Trial Station.
D. C. WEBSTER, SUPT.
June 17, 1916.--We received this spring, from the Fruit-Breeding Farm,
plants for trial as follows: Malinda Nos. 12, 25, 29, 32, 38, 269,
Russett Seedling, Gilbert Winesap, Nos. 7045, No. 90, No. ----, No. A 1,
everbearing raspberry Nos. 30, 31, and strawberry No. 3. We also
received from other sources Waneta and Lokota plum. Everything received
for trial this year lived and is growing well.
Of the plums received in 1914, No. 6 died last winter. Those remaining
about all bloomed, but only a very little fruit set on the following:
Nos. 3, 5, 8, 10, 14, 20. Native plums have set no fruit this year.
Apple trees top-worked last year did poorly. The trees worked two years
ago did finely and already have quite the appearance of real apple
trees. Some are setting fruit this year, and we anticipate a few fine
specimens of Jonathan and Delicious this fall from them.
In the orchard which blighted so badly two years ago, several trees died
from that cause. A great many are in a ragged condition from the pruning
necessary, and we note with considerable anxiety the occasional
appearance of that dreaded enemy a few days ago.
Last year we had what might be called a full crop of apples, and
consequently did not expect them to do much this year. However, they had
a fairly good bloom, and about one-half of the trees have set a fair
crop. We sprayed twice with so far satisfactory results.
Strawberries in this vicinity were badly injured by ice in winter where
not covered. Ours were covered and now promise a good yield. Began
picking the 14th inst.
We set quite a patch of everbearers No. 1017 this spring. They bore last
fall but chickens picked most of the berries. Superb were unsatisfactory
and winter-killed where not covered.
Carrie gooseberry has set full of berries and plants look fine.
All other trees and shrubbery in general at this station are in good
condition.
Mandan, N.D., Trial Station.
(Northern Great Plains Field Station.)
W.A. PETERSON, SUPT.
All plants at this station went into the winter with favorable soil
moisture conditions. Many plants, however, made a late growth and were
still in growing condition late in September.
The winter was a long and severe one, although there was more snow than
usual. The early spring was severe, being both windy, cold and dry. Up
to date (June 9th) there have been very few calm days. Three or four
very severe dust storms did considerable damage by blowing out seeds and
blighting the tender new growth of many plants.
The winter of 1915-16 in this section can be called a test winter, as
much winter-killing both in root and top has resulted.
A large proportion of the apple and plum orchard (60% to 75%) killed
out. There was no mulch or protection in these orchards. Practically all
grapes killed out, even though protected. A few Beta are alive at the
crown. Asparagus (unprotected) suffered severely. All raspberries had
been covered with dirt. They came through perfectly and promise a good
crop.
Strawberries wintered successfully. The South Dakota variety came
through perfectly, even when not mulched. All are in full bloom now.
Practically all of Prof. Hansen's plum hybrids killed out entirely, or
are dead to trunk or crown.
A large number of seedlings of Chinese apricot, Chinese peach, native
grapes, Juneberries and bullberries passed through the winter with
little or no injury. About 1,000 Beta seedlings, lined out as one year
seedlings in the spring of 1915, winter-killed, with the exception of
about seven or eight plants.
Paradise apple stocks wintered safely.
Soft maples that winter-killed to the ground in the preceding year are
good to the tips this spring, even though they had made four to six feet
of new growth last summer.
Many new plantings have been made this spring, especially along
plant-breeding lines. Extensive experiments have also been started with
fruit trees, shelter-belt trees, ornamental shrubs and perennial
flowering plants to determine the factors that influence the hardiness
of plants.
Strawberry No. 1017, from the Minnesota Fruit-Breeding Farm, made an
excellent showing in 1915, and all plants bore some fruit. Only a few
runners were made, however. All plants were potted in fall, so no data
has been secured on their hardiness. Several hundred more plants of this
variety were set out this spring and they made an excellent stand.
Montevideo Trial Station.
LYCURGUS R. MOYER, SUPT.
_Syringa Japonica._--The Japanese tree lilac has often been recommended
by this station, but last winter was unusually severe, and an old tree
obtained from Prof. Budd, nearly thirty years ago, now shows several
damaged branches. Younger trees on our grounds and in the city parks
show no injury. Perhaps this tree cannot be expected to live to be much
more than thirty years of age nor attain a much greater height than
thirty feet. The old tree is throwing up new stems from its roots and
may rejuvenate itself.
_Caragana._--The small shrubby caragana (Caragana pygmaea) was unusually
fine this spring when in full bloom. We received it from Prof. Budd many
years ago. It does finely in the clay banks of Lincoln Parkway in this
city, but it is seldom offered by nurserymen. Caragana frutex, formerly
called Caragana frutescens, is a somewhat taller shrub and not quite so
floriferous. It makes a fine screen. Both of these shrubs are addicted
to root sprouting, and might not please those who care for a stiff,
formal garden. Both may be readily propagated from root cuttings.
_Roses._--Hansen's Tetonkeha rose at this writing is in full bloom and
is a very striking object. It grows to the height of about four feet and
needs no protection. The flowers are large and of a deep pink color. It
seems to be as hardy as the old yellow rose of our gardens, that rose
being now, too, at its best. Among other garden roses Paul Neyron is in
a rather weak condition, Ulrich Brunner is doing a little better, while
Mme. Georges Bruant is doing still better. Rosa pratincola grows on our
grounds naturally, and we have brought in from the edges of the timber
Rosa Engelmanni and Rosa Maximilliani. A friend in Duluth has sent us
Rosa Sayi, and we obtained Rosa Macounii from the Bad Lands of North
Dakota. These roses, as well as the more common Rosa blanda, make an
interesting addition to the hardy border.
_Delphinium Formosum._--We obtained a plant or two of the old tall
larkspur almost thirty years ago. The old plants persisted several
years, and seedlings have grown up from self-sown seed, and the
plantation is now as attractive as ever.
_Chrysanthemum Uliginosum._--The giant daisy has been here for a long
time and needs but little attention. The clumps should be taken up and
divided occasionally. It is one of our best late fall flowers.
_Philadelphus._--Philadelphus pubescens came through the winter without
injury. Philadelphus zeyheri suffered a little. Philadelphus coronarius
came through in fair condition in a rather protected border, but
Philadelphus Lemoinei was frozen back nearly to the ground.
[Illustration: Giant daisy, or chrysanthemum uliginosum.]
_Physocarpus._--Physocarpus opulifolius came through the winter with no
more than its ordinary injury.
_Lonicera._--The old climbing honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) came
through the winter very much damaged, but our native honeysuckle is in
fine condition. The bush honeysuckles are all hardy. The one known as
Lonicera bella alba does not differ very much from the common white form
of the Tartarian honeysuckle.
_Prunus Triloba._--The double flowering plum has always been hardy with
us, and usually has been a splendid bloomer in the latter part of April,
but last winter was so severe that it did not bloom at all this spring.
_Catalpa._--Another strange feature of the winter was that Catalpa
speciosa came through entirely uninjured.
_Viburnum._--Viburnum pekinensis came through in fine condition as well
as its close relative, the high bush cranberry. The common snowball did
not suffer so much from aphis this year as usual. Viburnum lentago,
which grows in the river valleys here naturally, is doing finely.
_Syringa._--Among the bushy lilacs Syringa ligustrina, Syringa
Chinensis, Syringa josikea and Syringa villosa all bloomed fully. The
varieties of the common lilac, known as Ludwig Spaeth, Charles X,
Senator Vollard and the one that Prof. Budd brought from Russia and
called by him Russian lilac, were all very satisfactory. This last
variety has pink flowers and is a very choice variety of Syringa
vulgaria.
_Amelanchier._--The large Juneberry, probably Amelanchier Canadensis,
was a very attractive object in April, when its purple-colored young
leaves contrasted with its white bloom. The dwarf Juneberry, with their
villous young leaves and white flowers, are very attractive in April and
should receive more attention from our planters.
_Dictamnus._--The gas plant (Dictamnus fraxinilla) becomes more
attractive from year to year. It is one of the hardy plants which needs
scarcely any attention to keep the weeds away. The pink form is very
showy when in flower, and the plant is very attractive after the flower
is gone.
_Iris._--A rather large collection of Siberian iris is very attractive
just now. The city has found it a very desirable, hardy plant to set in
the park.
_Apples._--A very good tree for park planting seems to be the crabapple,
known as Malus seboldii. It is very attractive when in bloom, and the
fruit as it ripens takes on a rich warm color that is very interesting.
Okabena is promising a light crop, which may be advantageous, as when
this variety bears freely the apples are apt to be undersized. A
Thompson seedling is promising a full crop as well as most of the other
common varieties. The Wealthy on Malus baccata is bearing a full crop.
_Hybrid Plums._--The common varieties of plums are promising a very good
crop, except Surprise, which is not bearing at all this year. Minnesota
No. 10 is the only one of the new seedlings bearing a full crop. No. 18
has a light crop. No. 8 is thrifty and promising and so is No. 10. No.
20 suffered from the winter. Plums No. 1 and 2 are both promising. Plum
No. 11 was injured by the rabbits. Hansen's No. 3769, Sansota, is
bearing a light crop.
_Raspberries._--Raspberry No. 8 is promising a full crop. It is a very
late variety. Hansen's Oheta is one of our best berries.
_Gooseberries._--Western Minnesota is not well adapted to the
cultivation of gooseberries, nor do currants do very well. The Carrie
gooseberry is promising a full crop, and some of the older varieties are
doing better than usual, perhaps on account of the unusually cool
season.
Nevis Trial Station.
JAS. ARROWOOD, SUPT.
June 16, 1916.--Apples came through the past winter in fairly good
shape, especially the stock we have grown at this place. There has been
some loss with stock that has been brought from outside nurseries from
top killing, and there have been some sun scalds where trees have been
exposed to the southwest sun, mostly among the limbs and crotches. There
will be a fair crop of apples, as they seem to be setting fairly good.
There has been considerable top-working done this spring with fair
success.
[Illustration: Mr. James Arrowood alongside a seedling of the
Transcendent in early bloom.]
Our native plums have all come through the winter in good shape, with
only a small setting of plums, on account of so much rain. In regard to
the plums we received from the Breeding Station in 1913: the number of
plums was eighteen; all grew except two, and those killed back each
year. They were No. 2. All the rest have grown, but no fruit up to date
except on No. 7. That fruited last year and also is loaded with fruit at
this date. The trees received in 1914 all grew except two. They all made
a fair growth but haven't yet set any fruit. The dozen trees that were
sent me in 1915 have all made a good growth this last year.
Two dozen grapes that were sent to me three years ago have not set fruit
but have made a slow growth. Now in regard to small fruit, such as
strawberries, we wish to say that No. 3 heads everything in the
strawberry line for growth and berries. Its equal is not found in this
section of the country. In regard to the everbearing we cannot say that
they have done as well as we expected them to. The raspberries that we
received three years ago have all done very well. No. 1 and No. 5 have
done the best. Those berries have all stood out without covering through
the winter. We have one acre of them now. They have not killed back at
all and promise a big crop.
We received this spring about one dozen apple trees which we will report
on later. Currants and gooseberries promise a good crop.
In regard to the shade trees and the evergreens they have all done
remarkably well. We have more faith in the seedling fruits, such as
apples and plums, for this section of the country. We believe our only
hope will be through the seedlings. This was the late Prof. Green's
prediction to me just before his death. Every year brings to mind his
saying, that we must plant our own apple and plum seed if we ever expect
any good results in Northern Minnesota.
In regard to the Hansen plums--all seem to be doing well and are set
full of fruit. We would also mention the Hansen sweet alfalfa, which is
a wonder. It grows and spreads equal to quack-grass. Four years ago we
received fifty plants, which were planted according to directions of the
professor to set two feet apart and cultivate the first year. During
these four years it does not appear that there has been a single plant
killed out. It has spread from the seed and roots over two rods wide and
six rods long and as thick as it can stand.
Owatonna Trial Station.
THOS. E. CASHMAN, SUPT.
There is but little to report from the Owatonna Station at this time.
Trees and plants came through the winter in good condition. The apple
trees, Haralson's plum seedlings, No. 1017 everbearing strawberry, No. 4
raspberry and Beta grape seedlings came through the winter without
injury. Trees that are old enough have blossomed well and are carrying a
fair crop of fruit.
A new lot of seedlings originated by Mr. Haralson at the Fruit-Breeding
Station have been planted this year, and the station this year put in
the following: Malinda Nos. 12, 17, 13, 58, 32, 29, 7, 18, 25, 3, 35,
38, W. 82; Malinda seedling, W. 132; Hilbut, Winesap, W. 79, No. 16, No.
269, W. 81, W. 100, W. 184, No. 90, W. 20 G., No. 243; No. 31
everbearing raspberries, Russet Selly, W. 36, W. 135, No. 272. They are
starting off in good shape and will all make a good showing for the
first year.
We have done the usual spraying, first with lime-sulphur and a small
portion of arsenate of lead while the trees were dormant, and just
lately a good dose of arsenate of lead. The foliage of the trees is
perfect, and bugs of all kinds are conspicuous by their absence. People
who have not sprayed find their trees badly stripped of foliage. I am
afraid of severe losses unless they get busy very soon. Spraying costs
but little and must be done if we are to raise fruit.
Paynesville Trial Station.
FRANK BROWN, SUPT.
The plums sent to this station the spring of 1914 wintered very nicely,
blossomed very full and have set considerable fruit. The new growth on
these trees is very satisfactory, and they seem to be healthy in all
ways.
No. 1 plum trees sent here last spring froze back quite badly, but as
many other supposedly hardy trees did the same we are still in hopes
that this was only an incident in a hard winter.
[Illustration: A corner of the home orchard at the Paynesville Station.]
No. 4 raspberry is still a favorite here; it winters perfectly, is a
strong grower, and a good all around berry, both as a home berry, and as
a shipper.
Raspberries Nos. 2 and 7 are both good, but No. 2 lacks a little in
hardiness, and we wish to test No. 7 more fully before reporting. The
other raspberries, Nos. 1, 3, 5 and 6, are no good here.
If I knew how to say more in favor of that grand strawberry Minn. No. 3
I should say it; with us it is the best of all the June-bearing berries,
hardy, productive, a good canner and a good shipper.
The spring of 1915 we received from the Central Station fifty plants
labeled Minn. No. 1017. We considered it our duty to test these in all
ways, so kept all berries picked off until July 1st, then allowed fruit
and plants to form as they would, and the result was an immense crop of
dark red fruit, of the finest quality, and over 600 strong, sturdy
plants. These were transplanted this spring without the loss of a single
plant, and at this date are certainly a fine looking bunch.
The apple trees received this spring from the Central Station are all
doing well. The trees and plants from that Station certainly speak
volumes for the work being done by Supt. Haralson.
Some trees and shrubs killed back quite badly the past winter,
especially spirea Van Houtti was badly hurt.
Fruit prospects are good, the cold backward spring held the fruit buds
back until all danger of frost was over.
Strawberries are especially fine this season, and bid fair to be a
record crop. In fact, the horticulturists in this part of our state have
much to be thankful for.
Sauk Rapids Trial Station.
MRS. JENNIE STAGER, SUPT.
June 13--Starting with a late spring, which saved all sorts of blossoms
from the frost, now in June we have promise of an unlimited amount of
fruit. But with heavy rains almost every night, we cannot effect much
with spraying. One spraying eliminated all worms so far from not only
the currants and gooseberries, but the roses also, and once going
through the orchards has done away with the few tent caterpillars that
had started in their work.
So on the whole we have hopes of a full harvest of not only tree but
small fruits. Most vegetables are backward, as also flowers from seeds,
but with so much to be thankful for how can any of us complain.
* * * * *
ALLEGED PEAR BLIGHT CURES ARE WORTHLESS--ORGANISM OF DISEASE LIVES
UNDERNEATH BARK OUT OF REACH OF "CURE."--Fruit growers should not
allow themselves to be induced to purchase and use worthless pear blight
cures. Every year we hear of cures for pear blight being sold to fruit
growers, but to the present time the experiment stations of the country
have hunted in vain for any practical remedy that may be sprayed upon
trees or used in any way for the cure of this typo for disease. The
organism lives underneath the bark entirely out of reach of remedies
that may be applied to the surface of the tree.
I would strongly recommend to fruit growers that they do not spend any
money for pear blight until they are able to learn through experiment
stations, or the Department of Agriculture at Washington, D.C., that
there is a remedy that can be used for the control of this
disease.--C. P. Gillette, Colorado Agricultural Experiment Station.
West Concord Trial Station.
FRED COWLES, SUPT.
June 14.--The past winter was long and severe. Besides the severe cold,
a heavy coat of ice remained a long time on trees of all kinds, causing
much anxiety, but when the time came trees of all kinds were full of
bloom and beauty. Most varieties of apples have set a full crop of
fruit. Some trees which bore a heavy crop last year have little or none
this year, but the general crop of apples will be heavy if it matures.
Our trees top-worked to Jonathan and Northern Spy are bearing good this
year; they show no signs of winter-killing.
[Illustration: Side view of Mr. Cowles' home grounds.]
Plums were full of bloom as usual, but have set little fruit. Some
varieties--Sansota and Wyant--have a few scattering plums. Seedling No.
17 also has a few. The new seedlings from the Station are all growing
good. The native plums in a thicket have more fruit than the named
varieties.
Strawberries have wintered well and give promise of a full crop. Some
garden patches in the vicinity winter-killed badly. Minnesota Seedling
No. 3 promises to be a good berry; the strong fruit stems keep the
berries from the ground. The Progressive and Superb, of the everbearing
type, are no longer an experiment, but are a success, and many farmers
are planting them.
Raspberries winter-killed some. The Herbert seems as hardy as any.
Seedling No. 4 is also hardy. Gooseberries and currants are bearing as
usual. Grapes have started rather late and will have a short season to
mature.
The early flowering shrubs bloomed very full this spring. Lilacs did
extra well. The Persian lilac was very full and lasted a long time.
Chas. X, Madam Chereau and Alphonse la Valle were fine. Villosa is just
coming out; this is a beautiful variety. The tree lilac received from
China a few years ago is going to bloom for the first time. The iris is
just in full bloom, and the delicate colorings always please. Peonies
are late this year, none being out at this time. A few Rugosas are the
only roses out at this time, but they look promising for a little later.
Orcharding in Minnesota.
DISCUSSION LED BY PROF. RICHARD WELLINGTON, UNIVERSITY FARM.
Mr. Sauter: I want to set out 500 trees; what kind shall I set out? I
live at Zumbra Heights.
Mr. Wellington: I would prefer some of the more experienced growers to
speak on that question, but going over the recommendations of over 160
growers the Wealthy is recommended in practically all cases in
preference to the other varieties. We know, however, that the Wealthy
needs pollen from other varieties for fertilization of the blossom, so
it would be foolish to put out 500 Wealthys. It is better to mix in some
of the other varieties. If I was planting an orchard, probably
seventy-five per cent. of the apples would be Wealthys.
Mr. Sauter: And what next?
Mr. Wellington: Well, that depends altogether on your market. If you can
handle the Duchess apple, work the Duchess in; or if you wanted a few
late apples, work in some of the other varieties.
Mr. Sauter: Isn't the Okabena better than the Duchess?
Mr. Wellington: It is a little later.
Mr. Richardson: Four days later.
Mr. Wellington: That would be my recommendation. I would put in the
majority of the trees Wealthys and then work in some other varieties
according to your market.
Mr. Sauter: Isn't the Malinda and the Northwest Greening all right?
Mr. Wellington: The Northwest Greening seems to be especially valuable
in certain parts of the state. In some parts they winter injure, but it
is a good late variety.
Mr. Sauter: How is the Malinda?
Mr. Wellington: Malinda is all right excepting in quality. It is lacking
in quality.
Mr. Sauter: Is it a good seller?
Mr. Wellington: I couldn't tell you about that. Some of these other
gentlemen could give you information on that point. It tastes more like
cork than anything else, but after the other apples are gone we are not
so particular about it.
Mr. Dunlap: The speaker brought out one point that we tested out a great
many years ago in Illinois, and I suppose it is really an important one
here, and that is the protection against the winds with shelter-belts.
Now, at the University of Illinois they planted out some forty acres to
test that with all the varieties they could get together, and they
planted spruce trees not only on the outside of the orchard but they
planted them in through the orchard, dividing the orchards up into ten
acre plots. Quite a number of the early planters of apples in Illinois
also put windbreaks around their orchards with considerable detriment to
their orchards.
We find that we need air drainage there just as much as we need
protection against the wind. If I were in Minnesota I might change my
mind after studying the conditions, but if I was going to plant in
Minnesota and I should plant evergreens I certainly would trim them up
from the bottom so as to get air drainage. I have known of instances
where orchards were protected and where there was air drainage they were
all right, but where they were closely protected by the trees they were
injured by the frosts by their starting too early in the spring. If you
get a warm atmosphere around the trees you start your buds pretty early,
several days earlier than they would if they had the right kind of air
drainage, and it does seem to me that the experience we have had would
be against close planting around an orchard for protection from frost,
though you do want to protect them against winds, but air drainage, it
seems, is not a detriment to orchards. (Applause.)
Mr. Richardson: I wish to say that in my observation and my experience
if I was putting in a windbreak I would put it on the south and west
sides; I wouldn't have any on the north and east.
Mr. Brackett: Our prevailing winds are from the south and west during
the summer, and the Wealthy is an apple that is bad for falling off when
it gets to a certain stage, and I think it is very necessary for us to
have a windbreak on the south and west if we are going to protect our
orchards here.
Mr. Ludlow: The wind comes from the northwest generally in the winter,
when we have storms, and if snow falls and it comes from the northwest,
and the orchard is protected on that side by a windbreak, the windbreak
will catch the snow and it will pile on top of the orchard, and I have
known at least a dozen trees to be broken down by the storms of winter
getting in that way.
A Member: I think crab apple trees make a good windbreak, if they are
set twice as close together as trees in the orchard.
A Member: I think location has more to do with it than anything else. I
have two or three orchards in mind where five years ago, when we had
that hard frost, they had an abundance of apples, and it was protected
from the northwest. I have another orchard in mind that was protected
from the north and northwest, and this year they had over 1,400 bushels
of Wealthy apples. Mine wasn't protected particularly from the north,
and I had no apples, but back of the buildings, there is where I had my
apples. I tell you location has more to do with it than a windbreak in
such a case.
Mr. Drum: You all remember some ten or more years ago when the apple
trees were in blossom, and we had a terrible snow storm and blizzard and
freeze. My orchard was protected both from the southwest and the
northwest and the north, and following that freeze my trees had the only
apples that were left in that country. I think that protection from the
north and northwest is just as essential, especially in a position where
the winds have a wide sweep. My house and my orchard slope off to the
northwest, and I have a full sweep of the northwest wind there for
miles. The house was set as it were on a pinnacle. I think the
protection from the northwest is fully as essential in such a position
as any other.
Mr. Whiting: This windbreak proposition is a question of locality. In
the western part of the state, as well as in South Dakota--especially in
South Dakota--we say that the south windbreak is decidedly the most
important of any we can put in. We have more hot winds than you do here
in the eastern part of Minnesota. You don't have that trouble, but in
western Minnesota you are very much like we are in South Dakota. Mr.
Ludlow knows the conditions, and I say you must take that into
consideration. If you are in that locality the south windbreak is
decidedly the most important of any. Then I would say the windbreak on
the south, west and north are all of considerable importance. Of course,
you can overdo it, you can smother your orchard. You must guard against
that, but we have too much air drainage.
In regard to the variety proposition, isn't it true that you are growing
too many perishable apples in Minnesota? I know it is so in South
Dakota. We are growing too many of these early varieties; we ought to
grow more winter varieties. If you want to build up a large commercial
apple business you have got to raise more keepers. You are planting too
many early varieties.
Mr. Dowds: I have been setting out apple trees more or less in different
states for sixty years. If I was going to set out another orchard I
would put windbreaks all around it, north, south, east and west, and
the windbreak that I would use would be the yellow willow. It grows
quick, it gives you a circulation of air, and it protects your trees. My
experience in the last fifteen years has been that the yellow willow was
the best windbreak that you can have around the house.
Mr. Brackett: Mr. Whiting says, grow winter apples. I want to know what
winter apples will bring the money that Wealthy bring.
Mr. Whiting: That is a hard question, but isn't it a fact that you grow
too many Wealthys? Don't you glut the market unless you have cold
storage? You ought to work to that end just as much as possible; you
ought to have more good keepers, better winter varieties.
The Society Library.
Books may be taken from the Library of the Minnesota State Horticultural
Society by any member of the society on the following terms:
1. Only one book can be taken at a time.
2. Books with a star (*) before the title, as found in the published
library list, are reference books and not to be taken from the library.
3. In ordering books give besides the name also the case and book
numbers, to be found in the same line as the title.
4. Books will be sent by parcel post when requested.
5. When taking out, or sending for a book, a charge of ten cents is made
to cover expense of recording, transmission, etc.
6. Books are mailed to members only in Minnesota and states immediately
adjoining. When sent to points outside the state a charge of fifteen
cents is made.
7. A book can be kept two weeks: If kept longer a charge of two cents
per day will be made.
8. The library list, to December 1, 1915, is published in the 1915
annual volume of the society. Additions to this list will be published
year by year in the succeeding annual volumes.
GARDEN HELPS
Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society
Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So.
Minneapolis.
Mr. H. H. Whetzel, of the plant disease survey, U.S. Department of
Agriculture, stationed at Cornell University, where the American Peony
Society has its test grounds, has made a study of the stem-rot disease
of the peony and has set forth the results in an address before the
Massachusetts Horticultural Society, from which the following has been
culled:
"The botrytis blight is by far the most common and destructive disease
of the peony so far as known at present. This disease is frequently
epidemic, especially during wet springs. It occurs wherever peonies are
grown, apparently the world over.
"This disease usually makes its appearance early in the spring when the
stalks are coming up. Shoots will suddenly wilt and fall. Examination
will show they have rotted at the base or just below the surface of the
ground. The rotted portion will soon become covered with a brown coat of
spores--much like felt. Generally it is the young stalks that are
affected, though sometimes stalks with buds just opening will suddenly
wilt and fall. It is thought the spores are carried through the winter
on the old stubble, after the tops have been cut off. They are in the
best position to give rise to a new crop of spores in the spring, and
the new shoots become infected as they appear.
"To eradicate this disease the old stubble should be carefully removed
in the fall or early spring by removing first the soil from the crown so
as not to injure the buds, and cutting off the old stalks. These should
be burned and the soil replaced with clean soil or preferably sand.
Whenever a shoot shows sign of the disease it should be cut off and
burned. The buds must also be watched and any that begin to turn brown
or black and die must also be cut off and burned, as spores will be
found upon them, and these will be spread by the wind and insects.
Spotted leaves should also be picked off. In wet seasons the peonies
should be closely watched. For the small garden, with comparatively few
clumps of peonies, this treatment will be entirely practical and
effective."
Bulbs should be ordered this month if you wish the pick of the new crop.
There are two fall blooming bulbs that would add to our September and
October gardens. One is the Sternbergia, or autumn daffodil, and the
other is the autumn crocus.
The bulbs should be planted in August and will blossom the same season.
The daffodil is a clear yellow and is good for cutting. These bulbs must
be ordered as early as possible.
Lady bugs are our garden friends, destroying multitudes of aphides. They
should never be killed.
Have you the following all ready for use?
For insects, bugs or worms that chew--or eat portions of
plants--arsenate of lead, paris green or hellebore.
For sucking insects, nicotine or kerosene emulsion.
For diseases, bordeaux mixture or ammoniacal copper carbonate solution.
A good sprayer.
* * * * *
_Remember_ our photographic contest.
BEE-KEEPER'S COLUMN
Conducted by FRANCIS JAGER, Professor of Apiculture, University
Farm, St. Paul.
INCREASING COLONIES (CONTINUED FROM JUNE NO.)
[Illustration: Prof. Francis Jager's apiary at St. Bonifacius.]
To increase you must first make your colonies strong. One or more of
your best colonies must be selected to raise queens for your increase
unless you wish to buy your queen. Stimulate your queen raising colonies
by feeding and not giving them any supers. The crowded condition will
bring on an early swarming impulse, under which they will raise from
twelve to twenty large, well developed queen cells each. The queens of
your queen raising colonies should be clipped. When in due time a queen
raising colony swarms, catch the queen and remove her and let the swarm
return. Immediately after this swarm you may proceed to divide your
other colonies from which you wish to increase. Put down on a permanent
location as many empty hives as you have available queen cells in your
colony that swarmed. Into one of these you put your removed breeding
queen with two frames of brood and bees. Into each of the rest of the
empty hives put two frames of brood with all adhering bees from your
colonies you wish to increase. Be sure to leave the queens in the old
hive after brood for increase with adhering bees has been removed. Thus
you have now a number of new colonies with bees and two frames of brood
but no queen. The rest of the hive may be filled with drawn comb or
sheets of foundation. To prevent the bees from returning to the old
home, stuff the entrance of the hive solidly with grass. In two days the
grass will wilt and dry and the bees will come out automatically and
stay in the new location--at least most of them. In the meantime being
queenless they will be busy with raising queen cells on the two frames
of brood. This occupation will make them contented, then on the seventh
day cut out every one of their queen cells and give them a cell from
your breeder colony. Your queen breeding colony on the seventh day after
swarming will have ripe queen cells ready to hatch, with one queen
probably out. If by listening in the evening you hear her "sing" and
"peep" go next morning and remove all queen cells and give one to each
of your newly formed colonies. They will be readily accepted, will hatch
immediately, sometimes whilst you are removing them, but certainly the
same or next day and begin laying in due time. From such colonies you
may not expect any surplus honey, but they will build up rapidly and
will be strong colonies to put away next fall.
[Illustration: ADMINISTRATION BUILDING (MAIN BUILDING), UNIVERSITY
FARM, ST. ANTHONY PARK, MINN.]
While it is not the intention to publish anything in this
magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be
remembered that the articles published herein recite the
experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must
always be noted in estimating their practical value.
THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST
Vol. 44 AUGUST, 1916 No. 8
How May University Farm and the Minnesota State Horticultural Society be
Mutually Helpful in Developing the Farms and Homes of the Northwest?
A. F. WOODS, DEAN AND DIRECTOR, DEPT. OF AGRI., UNIVERSITY OF MINN., ST.
PAUL.
The farm without its windbreaks, shade trees, fruits, flowers and
garden, if it can be called a home at all is certainly one that needs
developing and improving. There are many abiding places in the
Northwest, as in every other part of the United States, that lack some
essential part of them. The first and most important step with a view to
correcting these conditions is to bring together those interested in
home improvement to talk over problems and difficulties and to plan how
to correct them and to interest others in the movement. This is what
this great society with its auxiliary societies has been and is now
doing most successfully. It is true that your work has been more
particularly from the horticultural view point, but, as I said in the
beginning, fruits and flowers are civilizing and home making influences.
There should be more horticulturally interested people from the farms
affiliated with this society. Each farmers' club should have a
horticultural committee. There are now about nine hundred farmers' clubs
in the state, and the number is increasing constantly. These clubs
represent the communities in which the members live. They include men,
women and children, farmers, preachers, teachers, every member of the
community willing to cooperate. They start things in the community
interest and follow them up. The Agricultural Extension Service of the
University is in close touch with these clubs. The horticulturists of
the service especially might help to arouse the interest of the clubs in
this movement. This society might offer some prizes especially designed
to interest the boys and girls of the farmers' clubs. Each club
horticultural committee should have representation in this society. Some
of the prizes might be memberships or trips to the annual meeting. Many
members of this society are members of such clubs. They could take the
lead in the movement. In this way the society would keep in touch with
the homes and communities of the state, and all would grow together in
horticultural grace--and the other graces that go with it.
[Illustration: A Minnesota farm home with handsome grounds and modern
conveniences.]
The gospel of better homes is like every other gospel. It must be taken
to those who need it and who know it not or are not interested. The
extension service of the University is organized to carry the message of
better homes, better farms, better social and business relations to the
people who need it. Farmers' institutes, short courses, lectures,
demonstration, farm supervision, judging at county fairs, boys' and
girls' club work, institute trains, county agent service, indicate some
of the kinds of work in progress. The press is also a powerful factor in
this work. The Minnesota Farmers' Library, which is made up of timely
publications on all matters of rural interest, has a mailing list of
fifty-five thousand farmers. From six to twelve of these publications
are issued each year. "University Farm Press News" reaches regularly
six hundred papers in the state. "Rural School Agriculture," containing
material especially adapted to the needs of the consolidated and rural
schools, reaches practically every rural and consolidated school in the
state each month. "The Visitor" is a special publication prepared for
the use of the teachers of agriculture in the high schools of the state.
The "Farmers' Institute Annual" is a manual of three hundred pages
published each year in editions of fifty thousand and contains material
of interest to every farmer. Many special articles are prepared for farm
papers. Every department of the extension service and college and
station is in touch with the farm homes of the state through
correspondence, and much valuable work is accomplished in this way. The
aim is always to work from the home as the center, and from that to the
group of homes constituting the community, the township, the county and
the state, in an ever-enlarging circle.
[Illustration: A typical Minnesota consolidated school building.]
The greatest opportunity for better homes and better farms and a better
country life is in enlisting the children of the country in the
movement. When I say the children of the country, I do not mean to
exclude the children of the villages and towns whose tastes may lead
them countryward. We should never stop or attempt to stop the free
movement between the country and the city. It is good for both. The
children of today will be the farmers and farm home makers and the
business men and women of tomorrow. Are the children of the farmers
looking forward with interest to farming as a business, and life in the
country as attractive? The movement to the city in ever-increasing
numbers is the answer, but it is the answer to what has been and now is,
rather than to what is to be. A new day is dawning, in which the
brightest minds and the choicest spirits will again choose to live in
the open country and make there the ideal homes from which shall
continue to come the life and vigor of the nation. But if it is to be
so, the schools of the country must furnish real intelligent leadership
and the country church must come again to spiritual leadership. We must
all help to bring this about.
Minnesota has a plan to accomplish this, and it is working out even
better than we dared hope. Experience has shown that by consolidation or
the cooperation of several districts, good results may be secured at no
greater cost than the same type of school costs in town. The small
school of today is expensive because it is inefficient. The consolidated
school is giving the children of the country the education that they
need and is doing it better than it can be done anywhere else. The
consolidated school is becoming the rural community center. An important
feature which has been adopted by many of the consolidated districts is
the building of a home for the teachers in connection with the school.
This home may be made typical of what the modern home should be, not
expensive but substantial, artistic, convenient and sanitary. The
grounds should be suitably planted with trees, shrubs and flowers, and
there should be a garden. The school building is also made to fit the
needs of the community. The larger rooms may be used for entertainments,
farmers' club meetings, lectures, etc. There should be facilities for
testing milk and other agricultural products, examining soils, etc.
There should be a shop for wood and iron work, or at least a work bench
and an anvil. There should be a library of good reading and a place to
cook and bake and sew. There should be a typewriter, a piano or an
organ, and such other conveniences for teaching and social center work
as the community may wish and be able to secure, and, best of all,
teachers living at the school who know how to operate the plant in
every detail and to make it useful to the community.
[Illustration: An ideal plan for consolidated school grounds.]
There were nine of these schools five years ago in Minnesota. According
to the last report of the Department of Public Instruction, there are
142 now, and the number is increasing constantly. The state as a state
is behind the movement and is giving substantial aid, direction and
supervision to these schools. When the forward movement was planned,
plans were also made to train teachers and to give the teachers already
in the service special work that would fit them to adjust themselves to
the new needs.
The normal schools and the high schools teaching agriculture, manual
training and home economics have adjusted their courses to meet this new
demand. Six years ago the work had hardly begun. Today there are 214
high and graded schools teaching home economics, 177 teaching
agriculture, 125 teaching manual training, and of these 121 are
preparing teachers especially for the rural schools.
The College of Agriculture and Home Economics of the University of
Minnesota is training the teachers in these subjects for the high
schools and normal schools, and, in cooperation with the State
Superintendent of Public Instruction, the Department of Agriculture has
been conducting a summer school for rural teachers, where those already
teaching and those planning to teach can get the training required to
meet the new conditions and demands. Similar summer schools have been
conducted in cooperation with the agricultural schools at Crookston and
Morris. All together each year there are between 1,800 and 2,000
teachers taking these special courses. Every effort is made to bring to
these teachers the view point of the new country life movement.
This society and the members individually in their home communities
should stand squarely behind this movement. They should become
thoroughly informed regarding it. It is the cornerstone of the new
country life.
Finally I wish to call your attention again to the great educational
opportunity which you are missing. If you could come into vital contact
each year with more than 4,000 young men and women who are seeking for
everything that will help them to be more useful citizens, would you do
it? You could exert in that way an exceedingly great influence on the
homes and future welfare of this state and nation. You can do it if you
will come out and live with us the year round at University Farm. We
should have a building there suited to your needs that we could all use
as a great horticultural center, open the year round. You have already
taken steps in this direction. I hope that conditions will be such that
we can join hands to get it very soon.
* * * * *
SAN JOSE SCALE REQUIRES PROMPT ACTION--ORCHARD SHOULD EITHER BE
DESTROYED OR SPRAYED BEFORE BUDS OPEN.--There are a few orchards in
Colorado that are found to be infested with the San Jose scale.
Owners of these orchards should determine upon one of two courses to
pursue. The orchard should either be promptly cut down and destroyed, or
the trees should be thoroughly treated with lime-sulphur solution or a
good quality of miscible oil for the destruction of the scale before the
buds open in the spring.
If lime-sulphur is determined upon, the home-made article may be used,
or the commercial lime-sulphur solutions may be used, in which case they
should be diluted with water, in the proportion of one gallon of the
commercial lime-sulphur to not more than ten gallons of water. The
application should be made thoroughly, so that every bit of the bark of
trunk and limbs is covered with the spray.
If miscible oil is used, I would recommend using one gallon of the oil
to each nineteen gallons of water. Hard or alkaline waters should be
avoided, as sometimes the oil will not make a good emulsion with them.
Use soft water, if possible.--C.P. Gillette, Colorado Agricultural
Experiment Station.
The Horticulturist as King.
C. S. HARRISON, NURSERYMAN, YORK, NEB.
Some of the promises regarding our future stagger us with their
vastness. "To him that overcometh will I grant to sit with me on my
throne." But how is it down here? Thou "crownest him with riches and
honor." Thou hast "put all things under his feet." Unto fields where
feet of angels come not we are chosen as partners of the Heavenly Father
to make this a more fruitful and beautiful world.
In our life work much depends on our attitude regarding our calling. We
can plod like an ox, or like Markham's semi-brute man with the hoe, and
make that the badge of servitude to toil, or we can make it a wand in a
magician's hand to call forth radiant forms of beauty from the somber
earth to smile upon us and load the air with fragrance. We can live down
in the basement of horticulture or in the upper story.
Man is coming to his own. The savage trembled at the lightning stroke
which shivered the mighty oak. Little knew he that here was a giant at
play waiting to be tamed and harnessed so he could be the most obedient
servant--ready at the master's beck to leap a continent, dive under the
ocean, draw heavy trains, and run acres of machinery. Man reaches out
his wand, and steam, gas, and oil rise up to do his will.
If, with the advance of civilization, he wants beautiful things to adorn
person or home, he finds subterranean gardens of precious gems almost
priceless in value--gems that are immortals, flowers that never fade,
prophets all of the "glory to be revealed."
You have heard of the marvelous Persian garden of gems--four hundred
feet in length and ninety feet wide--made to imitate the most beautiful
blooms of earth. It cost millions upon millions. Do you know that it is
in your power, with the advance of floriculture, to create gardens far
more resplendent in beauty--great gardens of delight fit for the touch
of angel's feet, while the whole is flooded with billows of sweetest
perfume? Three years ago that was a patch of barren earth; now you have
pulled down a section of paradise upon it and condensed there the tints
of the morning, the splendors of the evening, the beauty of the rainbow,
and the effulgence which flames in the mantles of the suns.
I love to think of Nature as a person--first born daughter of God--her
head white with the snows of the centuries, her cheeks radiant with the
flush of recurrent springtime, emblems of eternal youth. She takes you
by the hand, leads you into the forests, talks to you of the soul of the
tree, tells you how intelligent it is. There is one standing in the
open. It has performed a feat no civil engineer can emulate. Think of
those roots so busily scurrying around in the earth, gathering food to
send up the cambium highway to nourish the trees. See the taut cords
thrown out to anchor it against the storms. Look at those trees on the
outskirts. Among wild animals the strongest are on guard on the outside
to protect the herd. So these sentinel trees guard their wards against
the storms. Fool man cuts down the guards and the wards fall before the
sweep of the storm. Mother Nature--dear, friendly soul--takes you into
her holy of holies and reveals her mysteries. She makes a confident of
you. She throws open her doors and shows you the wide vistas of a new
land you may enter and glorify. Follow her direction, and what a friend
you have! Cross her, thinking you know more than she does, and she
laughs at you. She takes you into the garden and the nursery and
discloses her wonders and helps you to work miracles. You plant seeds
and bulbs, and beauty rises to greet you. Did you ever think of the
royal position of the florist and horticulturist?
The sacred poet speaks of the "labor of the olive." What a flood of
light that opens upon us. "All things are yours." Let us go out into the
grove you have planted. I once took off my hat to myself. While living
in the Republican Valley, near the 100th meridian, I planted some bull
pine seed. When the little trees were large enough, I transplanted them
in rows six feet apart and started a miniature forest. Twenty-five years
after I went to see them. The rows were straight. The trees had fine
bodies six inches through. They were miniature columns in a temple,
holding up a canopy of green. The ground was covered with a thick carpet
of needles. It was one of the most pleasing sights I ever saw. Then I
thought, "What if I had planted forty acres?" I would have had a Mecca
to which horticultural pilgrims would have flocked from hundreds of
miles. I planted the trees, and the faithful servants kept on working
day and night, and that beautiful grove was the result. Every tree you
plant is your servant, and how faithful it is--no shirking, always at it
whether you are looking or not. Look at that cherry tree. How the tiny
rootlets scurry through the soil--faithful children gathering food to
send up to their mother. Look at that flood of bloom. Then the fruit
grows till a mass of red gleams from the leafy coverts. There is a great
difference between a patch of brown earth and your faithful Jonathan.
What a marvel that little patch of soil, absolutely milked by those busy
foragers, and the extracts of it glowing in red beauty on the tree. Talk
of chemists! Those quiet rootlets surpass them all.
[Illustration: Albert Victor iris, from Mr. Harrison's garden--about
one-third size.]
If you want to be in the realm of miracles, lay down your hoe awhile and
sit among your flowers. Your brain devised the plan, your hand planted
the seeds and bulbs. "Behold the lilies, how they grow." Now sit there
and think it out. At your feet are artists no human skill may imitate.
Two peonies grow side by side. Golden Harvest opens with yellow petals
fading to purest white. In the center is a miniature Festiva
Maxima--blood drops and all. How can those roots send up the golden
tints, the snowy white and the red, and never have the colors mixed?
Close by is a Plutarch, deep brilliant red. The roots intermingle. How
is it possible to pick out of the dull soil, Nature's eternal drab, that
brilliant color for your peony? There are your iris, the new sorts
absolutely undescribable. There are a dozen different shades in a single
bloom. But those blind artists at work in their subterranean studios
never make a mistake. The standards must have just such colors, the
falls just such tints, and where did they get that dazzling radiant
reflex such as you see on Perfection, Monsignor and Black Knight? But it
is always there shimmering in the sunlight. There is a fairy--a pure
snowy queen. How was that sweetness and purity ever extracted from the
scentless soil? Every bloom uncorks a vial of perfume which has the odor
of the peach blossom.
Did you ever sit down in your kingdom and see what a royal throne you
occupied? What a reception your flowers give you! The ambrosia and
nectar of the feasts of the deities of fable are overshadowed by the
fragrance and sweetness of your worshippers. It would seem that every
flower, like a royal subject, was bent on rendering the most exalted
honor to her king. No company of maidens preparing for nuptials were
ever arrayed like these. Each one is striving to do her best. The
highest art ever displayed in the palaces of kings is no comparison to
the beauty and splendor of your reception. By divine right you are
supreme. The fertile soil puts her tributes at your feet; for you all
the viewless influences of nature are at work; for you the sun shines
and the showers fall. So brothers, don't creep but mount up as on
eagle's wings. Invoice yourself and see how great you are! Don't live
all the while in the basement--spend some time in the upper story of
your calling!
You are not making the earth weep blood. You are not spreading on the
fields a carpet of mangled forms. You are not dropping ruin and death
from the skies or polluting God's pure waters with submarines. You are
not turning all your energies into the work of destruction, despoiling
the treasures of art and the pride of the ages and turning the fairest
portions of the earth into desolations. You are not changing yourselves
into demons to gloat over starvation and ruin. You are soldiers of
peace. Behind you was the somber earth. You touched it with the wand of
your power, and beauty, health and pleasure sprang up to bless you.
See what you have done! You have clothed the barrenness of the dreary
plain with gardens, orchards and forests. You have been at work with God
and glorified a vast empire, and now he has blessed the work of your
hands. Instead of the air sodden with tears and tremulous with the wail
of widows and orphans, you are welcomed with the joy of children and the
delight of mothers. All along the lines of progress you receive the most
cordial ovations, and when you pass on to the land where "everlasting
spring abides", may you receive the royal welcome, "Well done, good and
faithful servant."
The Newer Fruits in 1915 and How Secured.
PROF. N. E. HANSEN, STATE COLLEGE, BROOKINGS, SOUTH DAKOTA.
Mr. Hansen: Mr. President and Fellow Members: This subject is not an
entirely satisfactory one this year owing to the fact that we lost about
three sets of tomato plants from frost, the last frost coming the ninth
of June. These conditions, of course, are unusual, but it prevented the
fruiting of a lot of new fruit seedlings which appeared promising.
However, I decided to propagate two new plums because they had borne
several excellent crops. One of these is a very late plum of good
quality, with flesh of peculiar crisp texture, which ripens after all
the other plums, about a week before frost. It is a combination of the
Wolf plum with the Kansas sand plum (_Prunus Watsoni_). The tree is of
late dwarf habit but very productive, and its late season may give it a
place.
Another plum which I decided to place in propagation is a hybrid of the
wild plum of Manitoba with the Japanese plum. The mother tree was raised
from wild plum pits received from Manitoba a few years ago. These bear
very freely and are the earliest of the native plums. The tree is of
low, dwarf habit. The fruit is not as large as my Waneta, which is a
hybrid of the largest native plum, the Terry, (_Prunus Americana_), with
the Apple, one of the best of Burbank's Japanese plums. But since the
range of the plum Manitoba is so far north, it may give greater
hardiness where that is needed. At any rate, it is of interest to know
that the Manitoba native plum can be mated with the Japanese plum.
Pears constitute my favorite line at present. "What can I do for hardy
pears?" is a question I have been asked many times. The prairie
northwest cannot raise pears owing to the cold or the blight. In my
travels in Asia, including four tours of exploration in Siberia, I made
a business of buying up basketfuls of pears in Manchuria, Mongolia,
Western China and Eastern Siberia and saving the seed, giving the flesh
away to the coolies, who were glad always to get the fruit. These have
raised me many seedlings. In addition I have imported a lot of pears
from Russia.
[Illustration: Pyrus Simoni
The hardy, blight-proof sand pear used by Prof. N.E. Hansen in breeding
pears for the Northwest. A careful study of our eastern Arctic pears has
been made recently by Mr. Alfred Rehder, botanist at Arnold Arboretum,
and this form of sand pear is now called Pyrus Ovoidea instead of Pyrus
Sinensis, or Pyrus Simoni.]
The pears of northern China and eastern Siberia are usually called the
Chinese sand pear and have been given various names, _Pyrus Sinensis_,
_Pyrus Ussuriensis_, _Pyrus Simoni_. The form I am working with mainly
was received in the spring of 1899 at the South Dakota Station under the
name of _Pyrus Simoni_, from Dr. C.S. Sargent, Director of the Arnold
Arboretum, Boston, Massachusetts. Since the publication of Bulletin 159,
of the South Dakota Experiment Station, April, 1915, in which I give a
brief outline of this work, the pears of this region have been studied
by Dr. Alfred Rehder of the Arnold Arboretum, and it now appears that
the true name of _Pyrus Simonii_ should be _Pyrus Ovoidea_. These trees
have proved perfectly hardy at Brookings and have never suffered from
blight. Varieties of other pears have been top-grafted on this tree, and
they have blighted, but the blight did not affect the rest of the tree.
Mr. Charles G. Patten, Charles City, Iowa, also has a form of the
Chinese sand pear which has proven immune to blight. In other places
sand pears have been under trial which have suffered from
winter-killing. However, I understand that the pear Mr. Patten has
tapers toward the stem, while the pear received by me as _Pyrus Simonii_
tapers toward the blossom end. The actual source of seed is really of
greater importance than the botanical name, as it is possible to get the
seed from too far south, whereas we should plant only the northern form
of the species.
The fruits of _Pyrus Ovoidea_ correspond in size to the ordinary pear
much like the Whitney crab-apple does to the apple. It is a real pear,
juicy and sweet, but not high flavored. Other varieties of pears have
been top-grafted on this tree and have blighted, but the blight did not
affect the rest of the tree. During the many seasons I have had this
pear the tip of one twig only showed a very slight trace the past
season, but I did not determine it was really blight. It is practically
immune.
I have also worked the Birch-Leaved pear, _Pyrus betulifolia_, Bunge, a
native of northern China, and a choice ornamental tree. Trees of this
species were received from a nursery in Germany in the fall of 1896 and
have proven perfectly hardy and quite resistant to blight. The fruit is
quite small, usually less than one-half inch in diameter, covered with
thick russet. _Betulifolia_ means birch-leaved, alluding to the shape of
the leaf.
Now, the pear is a difficult thing to work with on account of blight.
What is blight? It is an American bacterial disease, not found in the
home of the pear, Asia or Europe, so that during the 6,000 years of its
cultivation of recorded history the pear has never had to meet the
bacterial enemy known as blight. That is one of the reasons, I presume,
why they have such strict quarantine in Europe against American trees.
The question with pears is, will they stand blight or not? They are
spending hundreds of thousands of dollars in California to keep out
blight. Blight is a native of the northeast United States, and they are
keeping it down on the Pacific slope, but they are always on the edge of
the precipice. The whole pear culture of America is in an unsatisfactory
state, owing to this danger.
With these two northern pears as a foundation, I have endeavored to
secure seedlings with fruit of large size and choice quality by
hybridizing them with many of the best cultivated pears from Germany,
France, England, Central Russia and Finland, as well as with some of the
best varieties from the eastern pear-growing regions of the United
States. The work has been done mostly under glass in our fruit-breeding
greenhouse. Some of these fruits weighed one and one-fourth pounds. Some
of the resulting seedlings are subject to blight, while many have thus
far shown immunity. Since it is impossible to determine their relative
immunity to blight except by distributing them for trial elsewhere, I
sent out scions in the spring of 1915 of thirty-nine of these new
seedlings to twenty-four men in several states. These varieties are
under restrictions until fruited and deemed worthy of further
propagation.
[Illustration: Crossing work in pears--view in Prof. N. E. Hansen's
Fruit-Breeding Greenhouse, State College, Brookings, S.D.]
I did not know whether immunity to blight is a possibility or only an
iridescent dream, so I made no charge for these scions. The only test of
a pear seedling, the same as with the apple, is that of propagation.
Furthermore, if you have but the one seedling tree you may lose it by
accident; whereas, if you send it out to a number of good men, you
cannot lose it.
It should be distinctly understood that none of these new seedlings have
borne fruit, but by what may be termed the projective efficiency of the
pedigree I am satisfied that some of them will be valuable. In like
manner, a horse-breeder depends so much on the pedigree in his colts
that he is willing to enter them in a race. I believe something of value
will come from this line of work. I do know that my _Pyrus Ovoidea_ is a
pretty good, juicy little pear, a whole lot better than no pear at all.
I hope these seedlings will keep up their immunity to blight. The
original seedling trees certainly have had every chance to become
affected by blight, as they were surrounded by blighting apple trees,
crab-apple trees and pear trees, and no blight was cut out. I thought
this was the best way, since that is the test they will have in the
farmers' orchards when they go out from the nursery.
_Hardy Pear Stocks._--Now we are up against the problem of stocks for
these hardy pears. The quince is a standard dwarf stock, but it is not
hardy enough for us. Last spring I planted 12,000 seedlings of the
various commercial pear stocks, including imported French pear
seedlings, American grown French pear seedlings, Kieffer pear seedlings
and Japan pear seedlings. From one season's experience I like the Japan
pear the best. The French pear seedlings, especially, did not do well.
The Japan pear stock is coming into high favor in recent years on our
Pacific slope, where it is sometimes called the Chinese blight-proof
stock. The French pear stock is not in favor on our Pacific slope owing
to their liability to blight. We may also expect from the French pear
stock a decided lack of hardiness. The Japan pear stock is probably some
form of the Chinese sand pear. The seed may come from too far south,
whereas we should plant only the northern form of the species. This
varying degree of hardiness in the Japan pear seedling of commerce I
find discussed in a German horticultural paper. I have tried to
establish a regular source of supply by importing the seed, but it is
difficult indeed to do this. To avoid root-killing at the north we
should mulch these Japan pear seedlings heavily until we get enough
orchards of this truly hardy form, _Pyrus Ovoidea_, planted so we can
raise our own stocks. I firmly believe we will extend pear culture on
the North American continent clear to the Arctic Circle if we wish.
For pear stocks I am going to try everything I can think of. Some years
ago I worked pears on Juneberry stock from a hint given me many years
ago by Professor J.L. Budd. These grew well and were in full bloom when
five feet high, but were lost in clearing off a block of trees. I hope
to try this again on a larger scale. The mountain ash and hawthorn are
sometimes used, but both will be expensive and perhaps short-lived. The
quince is the dwarf stock of commerce but would need to be very heavily
mulched to prevent root-killing. Such dwarf pears are splendid in the
back yard, or for training up against the side of the house; the fruit
is fine and large, and the trees fruit the second year. The pear will
root in nursery by grafting with a long scion on apple seedlings. I hope
there will be much work done along this line.
To sum up the question, I think there is a hardy pear in sight. We have
the requisite pedigree back of it, and it seems that the quality we call
immunity to blight is in some of these Chinese or Siberian pears. If we
can combine the hardiness and blight-resistance of this Siberian pear
with the large size and high quality of fruit of the European pear, with
thousands of years of cultivation back of it, then we have the solution
of the pear question in sight. Millions and millions of people are
watching for a good hardy pear. (Applause.)
* * * * *
WARNING TO MUSHROOM GROWERS.--As the result of a serious case
of mushroom poisoning in a mushroom grower's family recently, the
mushroom specialists of the U.S. Department of Agriculture have issued a
warning to commercial and other growers of mushrooms to regard with
suspicion any abnormal mushrooms which appear in their beds. It seems
that occasionally sporadic forms appear in mushroom beds, persist for a
day or two, and then disappear. These are generally manure-inhabiting
species and may be observed shortly after the beds have been cased. In
the instance cited, however, these fungi appeared in considerable
numbers at the time the edible _Agaricus campestris_ should have been
ready for the market, and the dealer supposed it was probably a new
brown variety and tried it in his own family. As a result, five persons
were rendered absolutely helpless and were saved after several hours
only through the assistance of a second physician who had had experience
with this type of poisoning.
In the opinion of the Department, this case is peculiarly significant
and demonstrates that the grower must be able to distinguish _Agaricus
campestris_ from any of the wild forms of mushrooms that may appear in
the beds. Under the circumstances, the Department strongly urges every
grower to make himself thoroughly familiar with the cultivated species.
Complete descriptions, with pictures of poisonous and cultivated
species, are contained in Department Bulletin 175, "Mushrooms and Other
Common Fungi," which can be purchased for 30 cents from the
Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington,
D.C.
Manufacture of Cider Vinegar from Minnesota Apples.
PROF. W. G. BRIERLY, HORT. DEPT., UNIVERSITY FARM, ST. PAUL.
Cider making is an old process, carried on in a small way on the farm or
more extensively in the commercial "quick process." From apple cider
many different products are obtained, chief of these being vinegar and
others being bottled cider, boiled cider, apple butter and, more
recently, concentrated cider and cider syrup. This discussion will
consider only the manufacture of vinegar.
As a farm process, the making of cider vinegar utilizes an otherwise
waste product, the culls or unmarketable varieties. It can be done on
rainy days or when other work is slack. For the best results, however,
as in any form of marketing, some vinegar should be made each year so
that the market may be supplied regularly, and, further, to give the
necessary experience which will mean a better quality of vinegar.
As a commercial process we find the making of cider is a regularly
conducted manufacturing enterprise in which a considerable amount of
capital is needed. Expert knowledge of vinegar making, especially of the
"quick process," is essential. On this basis it is not open to the apple
grower and is a doubtful venture on a co-operative plan without the help
of experts. Where a vinegar factory is established, however, it gives to
the orchardist a means to dispose of his cull apples.
Considering the process as it can be carried on on the farm, there are a
number of distinct steps, all of which are important. The first step is
to prepare for the work. Get a good machine, as it will pay for itself
in the added extract of juice. A good machine need not cost more than
$25 and may be had for less. Casks must be obtained and sterilized with
live steam or sulphur fumes, washed thoroughly, and kept in a convenient
place where they will not dry. It is best as well to have the
convenience of running water to wash the apples if dirty and to clean up
the machine occasionally. Cleanliness should be provided for and
insisted upon, as dirty and decaying apples not only give undesirable
flavors, but the bacteria and molds feed upon the sugar in the cider and
greatly reduce the strength of the vinegar. This is one reason why a
rainy day is a good time for cider making, as dust and flies are less
and molds are not so abundantly "planted" in the cider.
The next step is the grinding and pressing and is very simple. With an
efficient machine the cider is quickly ready for the casks.
Then follows the first fermentation, which very frequently is not
properly managed, and poor vinegar results. The casks should be filled
only two-thirds full, the bung left open but screened with cheesecloth
or lightly fitted with a plug of cotton to admit air. Compressed yeast
generally should be added, at the rate of one cake to each five gallons,
first mixing the yeast in lukewarm water. If the cask is then placed in
a warm place, at least sixty degrees--seventy degrees or more being
better--we have the three requirements of proper fermentation, namely,
air, warmth and yeast. This will give rapid fermentation, which will
reduce the loss of sugars to a minimum. This fermentation should be
allowed to go on until completed. If vinegar starts to form it will
usually leave a residue of sugar and give a weaker vinegar. It will
require from two weeks to a year to change all the sugars into alcohol,
depending upon the management of the work. When finished the clear juice
is "racked" or siphoned into a clean cask, through a straining cloth to
insure the removal of all pomace or sediment.
[Illustration: Prof. W. G. Brierly, Horticultural Dept., University Farm,
St. Paul, Minn.]
Then follows the fermentation to produce the acetic acid and finish the
vinegar. A "starter" of "mother" can be used, but it is best to take out
a gallon or more of the cider when "racking" and add a pint to a quart
of a good grade cider vinegar. Let it stand in a warm place, well
covered with cheesecloth, and in from four to ten days a granular,
brownish cake should begin to form. This starter can then be put
directly into the casks, a pint or more to each cask. If the starter
develops a white, slimy coat, throw it out and start again. For all of
this second stage of fermentation follow the same plan as at first. Fill
the barrels not over two-thirds full, use a cotton plug or cheesecloth
screen at the bung and keep at a warm temperature. The essentials again
are air and warmth, with a good vinegar starter. Under these conditions
the vinegar may be ready in from two to ten months. If the usual plan of
"natural" fermentation is followed, and the cask is kept at a low
temperature, it may be three years before the vinegar is ready.
When the vinegar seems to be completed, send a sample to the State Dairy
and Food Commission at the Capitol for analysis. If they say it is
completed, "rack" off and strain again into clean barrels, this time
filling full and driving in the bung. This will prevent loss from
evaporation, and the vinegar can be sold at any time. The state law
requires that cider vinegars sold in the state measure up to a certain
standard--namely, four per cent. of acetic acid, 1.6 grams per 100 cc.
of solids, and .25 grams per 100 cc. of ash.
So much for vinegar making in general. For Minnesota conditions little
is known about the definite behavior of any apple varieties. This has
led to the study of vinegar making as a problem for the Experiment
Station. The Division of Horticulture is carrying on variety tests to
determine the yields of juice at different stages of maturity, the
efficiency of types of presses, labor costs per gallon, and the
production of vinegar from each variety to determine its value. The
Division of Agricultural Chemistry makes analyses of the sweet cider to
determine the composition and vinegar prospects, and also analyzes the
vinegars at various stages. The work has been carried on for two seasons
and is showing some interesting facts. These must, however, be checked
with further work before definite statements can be published.
As to machines, our results show that the press with press cloths will
outyield nearly two to one the press with the barrel or drum. However, a
strong grain sack used to catch the pomace and used to confine it in the
drum will give a very satisfactory yield, but it requires a considerable
amount of labor to do this.
As to labor costs per gallon, we have as yet no definite figures except
that one man can grind and press a minimum of eight to nine gallons an
hour. Two men can raise the output to at least thirteen gallons. At 25
cents per hour the cost per gallon on this basis varies between two and
four cents. As the apples are of little value, and the labor generally
"rainy day" labor, this seems to give an inexpensive product.
Our vinegars are as yet incomplete. The run of 1914 was very limited and
of necessity stored in a cold cellar. It now tests two per cent. acetic
acid, so is only half finished.
As to variety yields, the results of the work of two seasons compare
very closely and show generally that there is a variation from a minimum
of a scant two gallons up to more than a pint over three gallons from
forty pounds of each variety. The forty-pound quantity is taken as
representative of the bushel by measure. The varieties leading cider
production are--the Hibernal and Wealthy, which generally have given us
about three gallons per forty pounds, the Duchess and Patten running
slightly lower in cider yield. The Longfield, Lowland Raspberry,
Charlamoff and Whitney rank in a third group, according to our trials.
This does not mean, however, that those in the latter group are not
usable, as the Charlamoff and Whitney are among the highest in sugar
content. These figures are greatly modified if the apples have been in
storage or are over-ripe.
The chemical analyses of the ciders show that, in general, Minnesota
apples do not contain relatively high percentages of sugars. This varies
with the season and increases with maturity. The highest total sugar
content in ripe apples has been found in the Charlamoff at 9.25 per
cent., followed in order by Whitney, 9.08 per cent., Wealthy 8.81 per
cent., Duchess 8.60 per cent., Patten 8.21 per cent., Hibernal 7.85 per
cent., and Longfield at 7.17 per cent. The significance of these figures
is seen when the statement is made that it usually takes two per cent.
sugars to make one per cent. of acetic acid. With the majority of our
apples we must work carefully, or the vinegar will not meet the state
standard of four per cent. acetic acid. This is further substantiated by
the report of the State Dairy and Food Commission that the vinegar
samples sent to them rarely come up to the standard.
From the data as we now have it we cannot draw definite conclusions, but
in general it is safe to say that the making of vinegar from Minnesota
apples is done on a close margin. This will mean careful work to get the
most out of the fermentation, the use of yeast, warm cellars or store
rooms and proper management of the casks as to filling and the entrance
of air. The work is not expensive. There is a good demand for really
good vinegar, and a market is provided for fruit which could not readily
be sold in any other form.
A Summer in Our Garden.
MRS. GERTRUDE ELLIS SKINNER, AUSTIN.
Summer in our garden begins with the arrival of the first seed catalogue
in January, and closes the day before its arrival the next January. We
may be short on flowers in our garden, but we are long on seed
catalogues in our library. We do not believe in catalogue houses
excepting seed catalogues. We find them more marvelous than the Arabian
Nights, more imaginative than Baron Manchausen, and more alluring than a
circus poster. We care not who steals the Mona Lisa so long as Salzer
sends us pictures of his cabbages. The art gallery of the Louvre may be
robbed of its masterpiece without awakening a pang in our breasts, if
Dreer will only send us the pictures of those roses that bloom in the
paint-shops of Philadelphia. Morgan may purchase the choicest
collections of paintings in Europe and hide them from the public in his
New York mansion, if May will send us pictures of watermelons, such as
were never imagined by Raphael, Michael Angelo or Correggio.
While the world watches the struggle for the ownership of some great
railway system, the control of some big trust, the development of some
enormous enterprise, we watch for the arrival of the seed catalogue to
see which artist can get the most cabbages in a field, the most melons
on a cart, or make the corn look most like the big trees of Yosemite.
Don't talk to us of the pleasures of bridge whist, it is not to be
compared with the seed catalogue habit.
In the seed catalogue we mark all the things we are going to buy, we
mark all the new things. There is the wonderberry, sweeter than the
blueberry, with the fragrance of the pineapple and the lusciousness of
the strawberry! We mark the Himalaya-berry--which grows thirty feet,
sometimes sixty feet in a single season. Why, one catalogue told of a
man who picked 3,833-1/2 pounds of berries from a single vine, beside
what his children ate. Our Himalaya vine grew four inches the first
season and died the first winter. We were glad it did. We did not want
such a monster running over our garden. We wanted to raise other things.
But we did not lose faith in our catalogues. We believe what they say
just as the small boy believes he will see a lion eat a man at the
circus, because the billboard pictures him doing it.
If we ordered all the seeds we mark in the catalogue in January, we
would require a township for a garden, a Rockefeller to finance it and
an army to hoe it. We did not understand the purpose of a catalogue for
a long time. A catalogue is a stimulus. It's like an oyster cocktail
before a dinner, a Scotch high-ball before the banquet and the singing
before the sermon. Salzer knows no one ever raised such a crop of
cabbages as he pictures or the world would be drowned in sauer kraut. If
the Himalaya-berry bore as the catalogues say it does we should all be
buried in jam. You horticulturists never expect to raise such an apple
as Lindsay describes; if you did, they would be more valuable than the
golden apples of Hesperides.
But when we get a catalogue we just naturally dream that what we shall
raise will not only be as good but will excel the pictures. Alas, of
such stuff are dreams made! We could not do our gardening without
catalogues, but they are not true to life as we find it in our garden.
We never got a catalogue that showed the striped bug on the cucumber,
the slug on the rose bush, the louse on the aster, the cut worm on the
phlox, the black bug on the syringa, the thousand and one pests,
including the great American hen, the queen of the barnyard, but the
Goth and vandal of the garden.
But the best part of summer in our garden is the work we do in winter.
Then it is that our garden is most beautiful, for we work in the garden
of imagination, where drouth does not blight, nor storms devastate,
where the worm never cuts nor the bugs destroy. No dog ever uproots in
the garden of imagination, nor doth the hen scratch. This is the perfect
garden. Our golden glow blossoms in all of its auriferous splendor, the
Oriental poppy is a barbaric blaze of glory, our roses are as fair as
the tints of Aurora, the larkspur vies with the azure of heaven, the
gladioli are like a galaxy of butterflies and our lilies like those
which put Solomon in the shade. Every flower is in its proper place to
make harmony complete. There is not a jarring note of color in our
garden in the winter time.
Then comes the spring in our garden, a time of faith, vigilance and hard
work. Faith that the seed will grow, vigilance that it is planted deep
enough and has the right conditions in which to grow. Vigilance against
frost, weeds and insects. Planting, sowing, hoeing, transplanting,
coaxing, hoping, expecting, working--we never do half that we planned to
do in the springtime--there are not enough days, and the days we have
are too short.
Then comes summer, real summer in our garden. Then flowers begin to
bloom, and our friends tell us they are lovely. But we see the flaws and
errors. We feel almost guilty to have our garden praised, so many
glaring faults and shortcomings has it. The color scheme is wrong, there
are false notes here and there. There are tall plants where short plants
should be. There are spaces and breaks and again spots over-crowded. We
water and hoe, train vines, prop plants, and kill the bugs, but we know
the weak spots in our garden and vow that next summer we shall remedy
every mistake.
[Illustration: Mrs. Gertrude Ellis Skinner among her gladoli.]
Then "summer in our garden" has an autumn. The garden is never so
beautiful as when the first frost strikes it. Pillow-cases, sheets,
shawls, aprons, coats and newspapers may for a brief time hold at bay
the frost king, but he soon laughs at our efforts, crawls under the
edges of the unsightly garments with which we protect our flowers, nips
their petals, wilts their stems and blackens their leaves. We find them
some morning hopelessly frozen. But the earth has ceased to give forth
its aroma, the birds are winging southward, the waters of the brook run
clear and cold, and the voice of the last cricket sounds lonesome in the
land. We say to nature, "Work your will with our garden; the summer is
over, and we are ready to plan for another season."
And what have we learned from the "summer in our garden?" That no one
can be happy in his garden unless he works for the joy of the working.
He who loves his work loves nature. To him his garden is a great
cathedral, boundless as his wonder, a place of worship. Above him the
dome ever changing in color and design, beautiful in sunshine or storm
and thrice beautiful when studded with the eternal lamps of night. The
walls are the trees, the vines and the shrubs, waving in the distant
horizon and flinging their branches on the sky line, or close at hand
where we hear the voice of the wind among the leaves.
A wondrous floor is the garden's cathedral of emerald green in the
summer, sprinkled with flowers, of ermine whiteness in the winter,
sparkling with the diamonds of frost. Its choir is the winds, the
singing birds and the hum of insects. Its builder and maker is God. Man
goeth to his garden in the springtime, and, behold, all is mystery.
There is the mystery of life about him, in the flowing sap in the trees,
the springing of the green grass, the awakening of the insect world, the
hatching of the worm from the egg, the changing of the worm into the
butterfly.
The seed the gardener holds in his hand is a mystery. He knows what it
will produce, but why one phlox seed will produce a red blossom and
another a white is to him a miracle. He wonders at the prodigality of
nature. In her economy, what is one or ten thousand seeds! She scatters
them with lavish hand from ragweed, thistle or oak. If man could make
but the single seed of the ragweed, he could make a world. The distance
between a pansy and a planet is no greater than between man and a pansy.
The gardener sees the same infinite care bestowed upon the lowest as
upon the highest form of life, and he wonders at it. He looks into the
face of a flower, scans the butterfly and notes the toadstool and sees
that each is wonderful.
From the time he enters his garden in the springtime until he leaves it
in the autumn, he will find a place and a time to worship in his
cathedral. He enters it with the seed in his hand in the spring, and as
he rakes away the ripened plants in the autumn he finds something still
of the mystery of life. A puff-ball is before him, and he muses on its
forming. The little puff-ball stands at one end of the scale of life and
he, man, at the other, "close to the realm where angels have their
birth, just on the boundary of the spirit land." From the things visible
in our garden we learn of the things invisible, and strong the faith of
him who kneeling in adoration of the growing plant looks from nature to
nature's God and finds the peace which passeth understanding.
Bringing the Producer and Consumer Together.
R. S. MACKINTOSH, HORTICULTURAL SPECIALIST, AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION
DIVISION, UNIVERSITY FARM, ST. PAUL.
The introduction of Mr. Producer to Mr. Consumer directly, and not by
proxy, is the chief desire of the present time. The fact remains,
however, that in the vast majority of cases Messrs. Proxy & Co. is
brought in and breaks up the direct personal contact. The development of
complex marketing means specialization and in a large degree sets it
apart from production. When specialization becomes dominant, then
standardization becomes necessary. Each producer is unable to keep in
touch with all such movements and consequently finds it hard to keep
abreast of the times. In this age of rapid transit, specialization,
scientific discoveries, and the improvements resulting therefrom, seem
somewhat out of place when compared with our present marketing systems.
This does not mean that our marketing is entirely out of joint, but it
does mean that there is something the matter or so many would not be
discussing it. The consumer hears what the producer received, the
producer hears what the consumer paid, and then somebody gets to
thinking and talking. Discussions lead to investigations, and
investigations lead to conferences. Just lately a large conference was
held in Chicago, and certain plans were formulated to attempt to unravel
some of the evils that exist in marketing. So much has been said that
the U.S. Department of Agriculture has begun certain investigations, and
we hope that the workers will find ways to solve some of the troubles in
a logical and, we hope, sane way.
A year ago your committee on marketing reported that there were certain
things needed, and an ideal system was suggested to correct these
faults. One of the basic factors emphasized was standardization. Another
committee reported on changes needed in the statutes regarding the
weight of a bushel of apples. Congress has enacted a law which specifies
the size of a barrel for apples. New York, Massachusetts and other
states have enacted grading laws. Some states require that the fruit be
free of certain insect and disease injuries. Several states have laws
regulating commission men. Most states have laws which do not allow the
sale of food products that are decayed. These are all steps toward the
standardization that is so necessary. In other words, the several laws
have been passed to correct some of the troubles which have come up when
so many hands handle the products. These laws were not needed in olden
times when the consumer went directly to the producer's door and there
bargained for his wares.
Minnesota is a state noted for co-operative enterprises. There are over
two thousand such organizations doing more than $60,000,000.00 worth of
business yearly. We know full well the value of the co-operative
creameries and how butter has been brought up to a high standard. As
citizens, we rejoice; as horticulturists, and citizens as well, we want
our products to stand high in the estimation of others. I was much
pained this summer while discussing the marketing of apples with several
commission men to hear them say that they did not like to take local
shipments. The reason was that the goods were usually below grade, and
the returns did not always please the growers. It is evident that we
must improve our methods in ways which will remove this stigma. Many of
the commission men try to induce good grading and packing. They like to
handle "top notch" goods, for it is cheaper to handle goods that move
quickly than those that are a drag and require too much handling. The
Agricultural Extension Division of the College of Agriculture is
organized to give help, where help is needed, along a large number of
agricultural lines.
Realizing these facts, we have been trying to get the ear of the
producer and consumer in an effort to get them to do certain things. On
the one hand, we want to have good varieties, and to help this lectures
and demonstrations are given in the care of the orchard, pruning,
spraying, thinning, picking, grading, packing and marketing. On the
other hand we want more people to eat Minnesota apples. It is a campaign
of education and publicity.
If one wishes to sell anything, he finds that he must advertise. He must
advertise so much and in so many ways that people cannot help buying his
wares. There are certain widely advertised articles that you must know,
whether you are interested or not. One of these runs along the highways
so often that you are shaken, even against your will, into consciousness
of its existence, so that you cannot get along without having one, or at
least seeing one. The latest edition seems to have put on feathers in
the form of a white dove of peace. May it succeed. Advertising Minnesota
apples has been attempted this past year.
It was found necessary to provide a standard by which the buyer and
seller could agree on apple grades. After consulting several persons, it
was decided to adopt the following grades:
"A" Grade.--Hand picked, normal shape, good color (at least one-third
colored), free from dirt, disease and insect injuries, and well packed.
Limit of defects allowed: Not more than 10% of all kinds nor 5% of any
one kind.
[Illustration: Prof. R. S. Mackintosh--Horticulturist connected with
Extension Division, University Farm, St. Paul.]
"B" Grade.--Hand picked, practically normal shape, practically free from
dirt, disease and insect injuries, and properly packed. Limit of defects
allowed: Not more than 15% of all nor 5% of any one kind.
Only one variety and grade should be put in a package. In the grade
specifications given, normal shape refers to the general form of
well-grown specimens of the variety in question. For instance: The
Wealthy is regular in outline and nearly round, while the Hibernal is
somewhat flat and often irregular. In like manner the color must be
typical of the variety, whether green, yellow or red. Red apples usually
sell better than green or yellow varieties, although the quality may be
even poorer. Fruit showing insect or disease injuries cannot be classed
as well grown. Grading to size is very important. This is not specified
because it depends upon the variety and season. Only apples above a
selected minimum size, as 2-1/2 inches, the diameter at right angles to
stem, should be placed in the same package. Defects refer to apples not
up to grade in size, color or shape and having bruises, punctures,
disease or insect injuries.
_Fancy._--For persons having extra choice fruit, a fancy grade can be
used. Well-grown specimens, hand picked, of normal shape, at least
two-thirds colored, free from dirt, diseases and insect injuries and
properly packed. Not more than 5% of combined defects allowed, of which
only 2% can be of the same kind.
Hundreds of letters were sent to persons in the state, telling them that
we would maintain an information bureau or clearing house to help them
in finding markets for their apples. Several growers replied, and the
names of persons who were anxious to buy apples were given them. Nine
farmers' clubs asked for information as to where Minnesota apples could
be bought. This is a beginning, and it shows that there is need for some
sort of an organization that can find out where apples are and who wants
them. The intention has not been to interfere with the regular trade
routes, but to give the growers information as to who wants apples. As
you will notice, this does not bring the producer directly to the door
of the consumer. There must be some one to act as a go-between in most
cases.
It was just stated that Minnesota is a state having a very large number
of co-operative business organizations. Among these are about two
hundred live stock shipping associations having a very simple form of
organization. A number of persons in a community, having considerable
stock to ship, come together, adopt a simple set of by-laws which
provide for the selection of a manager, his compensation--usually a
certain percentage on the gross receipts--and a small amount for losses
which may occur. No capital stock is required--only the actual living
stock. The manager ships the stock at certain times, and when the
returns come in deducts the amounts provided for expenses and then
returns to each shipper his proportionate amount. In this way the stock
is sold at the terminal yards the same day and with other stock from
many sections. It is a very simple, satisfactory way of marketing.
The more I study and think of our apple situation, the more I am of the
opinion that a very large part of our fruit could be marketed in a
similar way. Some of our La Crescent friends ship together in carlots
successfully. Why not others? This is the very best way to begin
co-operation in a successful way. As Mr. Collingwood says:
"Co-operation, like charity, should begin at home and be well nurtured."
In other words, begin to co-operate at home in a small way and let the
future large organizations take care of themselves.
To be specific, let the growers in a community meet and form a
fruit-shipping association with by-laws patterned after the successful
stock-shipping associations. Then the fruit should be well grown, picked
in time, graded thoroughly and honestly packed and marked. Haul at once
to car. The manager will take charge and ship as he thinks best. Each
package must have the customary identification marks, so the manager can
keep an accurate record of all transactions. If, by chance, trouble
comes up, the shippers can pool their interests, and send a
representative to find out the trouble. Thus they can do together what
each cannot do alone. Even this does not bring the consumers directly in
contact with the producers. It is, however, a step nearer.
The public auctions started in New York this season seem to have been
successful, and it may mean an innovation which will improve marketing
conditions in general. These auctions are held under the recently formed
Department of Foods and Markets. The Department has contracted with a
large auction company which advances the freight, conducts the sales,
guarantees the accounts, and advances the net returns for the goods
daily. The producer is able to get returns within two days. The total
cost is 5% on the gross sales; 3% for the auction company and 2% for the
Department of Markets for the advertising and for other overhead
expenses. Posters have been issued to advertise New York State apples.
As this Department has been working only for a short time, it is too
early to tell whether it is a success in every way.
We earnestly ask your co-operation in trying to solve the question of
marketing Minnesota apples. All interested must assist in this important
subject.
* * * * *
WORLD'S TALLEST TREES.--The tallest trees are the Australian
eucalyptus, which attain a height of 480 feet.
GARDEN HELPS
Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society
Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So.
Minneapolis.
HARDY CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
The new type of hardy chrysanthemums called "early-flowering" has been
largely developed by a Frenchman named August Nonin, of Paris, who has
devoted much of his life to perfecting this strain from seedlings of the
old-fashioned "mums" of our grandmothers' gardens. It is considered by
far the most satisfactory kind to grow out of doors, blossoming earlier
than the pompons. A few of the best of these early-flowering types are:
White--Crawford White, Dorothy, Milka and Normandie; yellow--E'toile
d'Or, Carrie, October Gold; pink--Beaurepaire, Eden, Le Danube; red and
bronze shades--Harvest Home, Firelight, A. Barham and Billancourt. These
are the earliest bloomers of this type.
Hardy pompons are still most largely grown for outdoor flowering, but of
these there is also a choice, as the earliest bloomers are the most
desirable to use. Lilian Doty, a large-flowered, clear, bright pink, is
considered the very best of these. Donald and Minta are other good
pinks. The earliest whites are Queen of the Whites, Waco, Grace and
Myer's Perfection. Jeanette, Wm. Sabey, Golden Climax and Zenobia are
the best yellows, and Julia Lagravere, Urith and Tiber the best crimson
and bronze shades. There are many other beautiful pompons, but they
bloom too late for practical out-of-door use.
The single mums have of late been used successfully out-of-doors when
early blooming varieties have been chosen.
Of these Elsa, Gladys Duckham and Mensa are the earliest whites: Ivor
Grant, Mrs. Southbridge and Mrs. Buckingham the earliest pinks;
Josephine, Golden Mensa and Marion Sutherland the earliest yellows; and
Silvia Slade, Ceddie Mason and Brightness the earliest crimson and
bronze shades.
As soon as it is warm enough in the spring the plants should be set out
about twelve inches apart in rich garden soil, and kept pinched back
during May and June to insure a stocky growth. If one has old clumps in
the garden, they should be taken up and divided and set in new earth
just as any old perennial plant would be treated.
During the hot summer weather they should be well watered once a week
and sprayed in the cool of the evening. This will keep down the black
and green aphis, the worst enemies of mums. In case these pests become a
menace a spray of tobacco water will end the trouble. A little bone meal
or well rotted manure dug about the plants in August will help to
produce fine blooms.
A gardener who has never yet lost a plant through winter-killing treats
them as follows: After they have finished blooming he cuts them down to
about eight inches above the ground and lets the leaves blow in on the
bed, covering to a depth of six or eight inches. Then he lays pine
branches over the beds to prevent the leaves from blowing away. So
treated, the plants will remain frozen all winter. They should in all
cases be set in a well drained position, as they will not stand "wet
feet." Uncover with the other perennials in the spring.--Mrs. E. W.
Gould.
BEE-KEEPER'S COLUMN.
Conducted by FRANCIS JAGER, Professor of Apiculture, University
Farm, St. Paul.
The Minnesota honey crop of 1916 will probably be a record breaker. This
brings up the question of how to market this crop to the best advantage.
Let me state at once that the greatest obstacle to free and easy selling
of honey is the careless, untidy, sometimes unsanitary way some
bee-keepers put up their honey for the market--spoiling the appetite of
the public for this most delicious of nature's foods not only for
themselves but also for progressive and up-to-date bee-keepers. The
result of this big honey crop will be to eliminate the No. 2 and No. 3
bee-keeper and his honey from the market until No. 1 has sold out his
product.
A short article like this cannot make a good bee-keeper out of a poor
one, it can only serve as a reminder to those who know how "lest they
forget." Moreover, the most careless and backward bee-keepers imagine
that they are crackerjacks at their trade, thus putting themselves
beyond the possibility of becoming anything. It takes a thousand
hammer-blows to drive home a truth or a useful idea.
If comb honey is your specialty observe the national grading and packing
rules. They are printed in all bee papers and magazines, and have been
given all possible publication to reach you.
To obtain fancy comb honey your sections must have been made over strong
colonies in No. 1 white, new sections with extra thin top and bottom
starters. After the honey flow is over in your locality (which you can
detect by the tendency of bees to rob and be cross) remove your comb
honey at once. By leaving it on, travel stained and propolis spotted
sections will result. The snow white finish of the comb will be
discolored, the wood will assume that "used and handled" appearance
which is not attractive to the buyer. The sections must be graded fancy,
No. 1 and No. 2. Every section must be scraped around the edges and all
propolis removed. Some bee-keepers even polish the wood of the section
until it looks as clean as if it just came from the factory.
After cleaning and grading put up your honey into standard shipping
cases. Do not ship it in the super where it was raised nor in a soap
box. If shipped to a distant market by freight or express, eight
shipping cases must be packed together into one honey crate provided
with handles. The tendency of late is to put up each comb in a separate
paper box with transparent front to keep the honey free from flies and
finger-marks. This practice deserves universal adoption.
If you produce extracted honey you may leave your honey with bees for a
week or two after the honey flow is over. Extracting should be done in
hot weather, during August or early part of September. A modern hand or
power extractor is an absolute necessity. There are still a few old
timers who "butcher" their bees late in the fall, and render the honey
by the "hand mash and sheet strain" method, but they are only relics of
a poetical past and going fast.
Honey to be extracted must be well capped over. If extracted too thin it
will ferment and get sour. If left with bees too long it will be too
thick and hard to extract. Extracting ought to be done in a bee-tight
room to keep out robber bees. Extracted supers may be returned to the
bees in the evening or piled up at a distance in a safe place for bees
to clean out. Extracted honey must be left to stand in a settling tank
for about a week, or until all air bubbles and wax particles have risen
to the top. It should be put up into five gallon cans or barrels for
wholesale trade. For retail trade it should be bottled when needed, else
it will candy in the glass. Bottling it hot or heating it after bottling
will delay crystallization for a considerable period. The bottles ought
to be white, clean and labeled with your name. Each kind of container
should be well packed in a wooden shipping case. Do not make it a
practice to sell a large amount to a customer at once, sell rather
smaller amounts at frequent intervals.
ORCHARD NOTES.
Conducted monthly by R. S. MACKINTOSH, Horticulturist, Extension
Division, University Farm, St. Paul.
Once in a while it is well to pause for a few moments to consider some
of the results of past efforts. We have been growing apples in Minnesota
in large quantities. Insects and diseases are causing more damage each
year, and this has lead us to pay more attention to the prevention of
these pests. A regular spraying program has been outlined, and many
persons have adopted it. What are the results? It seems to us that the
results of spraying at West Concord, Minn., should be made known to the
readers of the MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST. It indicates very
clearly the value of spraying and how someone in a community can take
charge and diligently push for better methods. In this case the
instructor in agriculture, with the aid of his superintendent and board
of education, secured a power sprayer and began to spray the orchards in
the vicinity. At first it was necessary to ask the owners if they might
spray their trees. After three years, however, the owners appealed to
Prof. Updegraff to have their trees sprayed. This year he had more work
than he could manage. Demonstrations of this kind show the value of the
work so vividly that the most skeptical gradually becomes convinced of
its value.
Several schools have purchased spraying outfits. We hope that we shall
hear from more of them in the future. In many cases the spraying outfit
is used for whitewashing the interior of barns and other buildings.
Reports that come to the Agricultural Extension Division indicate that
there will be a surplus of apples in some sections this year. We want to
assist in the distribution of the surplus and shall continue the Apple
Clearing House again this year. If you have more apples than you can
sell locally please let the division know what you have to sell. Address
the Agricultural Extension Division, University Farm, St. Paul.
Apples for market must be graded and packed properly if they are to be
sold through the regular trade routes. The barrel is the standard
package in most parts of the country. The bushel basket is being used
for early fruit in some markets. All fruit for sale should be _hand
picked from the tree_ (not from the ground) and allowed to cool. Grade
according to size and freedom from insect and other injuries. Pack
carefully so as to avoid bruising. When cover is put on press firmly in
place. Do not allow fruit to shake about while in transit. Pick early
maturing fruit while more or less green. Ripe fruit will not keep well
during hot weather. (See page 321 of this number.)
Late August and September is the time when practically all our county
fairs are held. It is hoped that the exhibits of fruits, vegetables and
flowers will be large and of good quality. Follow the premium list very
carefully. Put on the plate the right number of specimens. Pick apples
so as to leave stems attached. Quality means specimens of perfect shape
for the variety, free of insect or disease injuries, without bruises and
well colored. Vegetables should be well selected in every particular.
Select the specimens that you would like to use. The overgrown specimens
are not always the best.
[Illustration: A VALLEY LAWN WITH SHRUBBERY ON BORDER OF WOODS.
FORMERLY OCCUPIED BY HENHOUSE AND YARDS.
View on same grounds with garden pergola shown on page 331.]
While it is not the intention to publish anything in this
magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be
remembered that the articles published herein recite the
experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must
always be noted In estimating their practical value.
THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST
Vol. 44 SEPTEMBER, 1916 No. 9
The Pergola--Its Use and Misuse, Convenience and Expense.
CHAS. H. RAMSDELL, LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT, MINNEAPOLIS.
Let me take you by a brief word picture to Italy, the first home of the
pergola as we see it hereabouts today. On the hills and vineyards above
the sea, in that sunny land, I can see a beautiful home or villa,
seemingly about to tumble off the rocky point on which it rests. Indeed,
so scant is the space about the building that none is left for trees to
shade the white house from the heat of the tropic sun. But shade must be
had to break the glare of the noonday. The vine and the grape thrive
amazingly near the sea, and this necessity evolved the pergola. It was
compact, could be made straight or curving, short or long, usually
narrow but still supporting to some height the delicate leaves and fruit
of the grape. Thus, the Italian secured his shade and made an
interesting walk or approach. Because of its open work and light
proportions the views of the beautiful Italian sea and sunset were not
blocked but thereby improved, each view framed in by the pergola
pillars, with the picturesque tracery of the vine clinging to them.
Here was its home, and here it was perfect in its setting. We Americans,
in our zeal to secure all that's good, have brought it bodily to our
homes. But like much else that's transplanted, we do not always look
well to the new conditions as comparable to the old. The pergola is,
however, too valuable a garden feature to do without. Our greater care
should be to study our need, use the pergola when advisable for some
other feature, like one of those illustrated on this sheet, when more
appropriate.
In construction the pergola is usually made of materials to match the
house, sometimes masonry or stone pillars as well as those of wood. The
rafters and lighter beams should be made of the most durable wood,
preferably cypress, and carefully painted. The pillars may be of classic
design or of more modern lines, but if they are of a thickness greater
than one-seventh of their height, they are not proportionate to the
light load they carry. Preferably, the columns rest on and are anchored
to concrete or stone footings in the ground. The supporting rafters from
pillar to pillar are the heavier construction, the cross beams, etc.,
the lighter.
[Illustration: Pergola over garden gate, with planting to screen kitchen
garden, in Minneapolis.]
The surface of the ground beneath the pergola should be made of weather
proof brick or tile floors. They shed the surface water and make it
useable in damp weather, not possible with the turf.
The cost of these structures is largely optional with the builder. One
clever with carpenter's tools can build one at the cost of his time and
lumber. The other limit cannot be set. Masonry pillars, cypress lumber,
pavement of the floor, the size, cost of design, etc., will, upon
occasion, bring up this cost to that of a small house. I have found a
firm in Chicago who will ship one complete, ready to set up, following
one's own design, or, after submitting standard designs and photographs
of their work. They sell one 8 feet long, 7 feet 6 inches wide and 7
feet 6 inches high with 10-inch columns for $45.00, each additional
8-foot section $25.00, f.o.b., Chicago. The pictures shown of such a
pergola are highly attractive. From this figure the cost runs up to
$500.00 and even $1,000.00 for circular construction eight-four long and
correspondingly heavy. Of course, one can secure low figures from any
local millwork company if a good detailed design is available. In this
way good distinctive work is possible.
Its uses are infinite. It may serve to connect the architectural lines
of the house with garage or other smaller building. It may lead from
house to garden, or along an overlook walk along the river or lake. It
may encircle a garden pool or an important statue. It can be made an
approach to a band stand, or other park building. It will make part of
the garden background, but should not be depended upon without the
higher foliage so eminently desirable.
[Illustration: A garden pergola erected last summer on clients' grounds
south of Lake Harriet, Minneapolis--covering walk from house to garden,
sixty five feet long.]
Do not make the mistake of expecting a pergola to serve as a porch or
outdoor place to sit or sleep. One needs the roof of a tea house to keep
off the evening dews or occasional shower. It cannot be made a large
feature of the grounds like a garden. It is not important enough. It
will not, without trees and high shrubs behind it, make any background
as will a garden wall or lattice. It is no barrier along a street or of
any use as a fence or division line. And sometimes the lines of a house
or building may be better carried by a rose arch or vine arch without
the expense of a pergola. Thus you see it has its limited place, and its
use must be decided upon with good taste and judgment.
The pergola is almost incomplete without the growing vines on it. A four
years' growth of Beta or Janesville grapes (which we don't have to lay
down for winter), will give one a beautiful showing of the hanging fall
fruit. The bittersweet is also good with yellow fall fruit. The several
varieties of clematis are desirable if combined with the heavier growing
grape or woodbine. The woodbine is good for its fall color, although
weedy in growth.
The Minnesota honeysuckle should be mentioned, also the Dutchman's Pipe
and the Solanum, all good in a limited way. The climbing roses are all
right to use, although they lack foliage background and have to be laid
down every winter. However, I like to believe the man who designed the
first pergola had the grape vine in his mind in so doing, for the two
fit conditions like hand and glove.
It is a structure of charming possibilities. Its lines curve as well as
any other feature. Its proportions should be always light and graceful.
It adds much to almost any garden or home grounds when carefully used.
Its open work overhead typifies the freedom of the outdoors. It also
recalls the vine and its growth to the light. And if we temper our
enthusiasm with good sense, its use will be fortunate and the result a
happy one.
Packing and Marketing Apples.
H. M. DUNLAP, PRES. ILL. ORCHARD CO., SAVOY, ILLS.
The growing of apples is one problem, the marketing is another. The two
are intimately related but entirely different. It is essential in
obtaining the best results to first grow good apples for the market.
This, like the darkey's receipt for rabbit soup, comes first. The darkey
says, "first kotch your rabbit."
Many a grower who understands fairly well how to produce good fruit is
lost when it comes to selling it to an advantage to himself. You notice
that I said "to himself." It is often done to the advantage of the
buyer. Like most inventors the apple grower usually needs assistance in
selling what he has produced. The grower who connects up with the best
methods in this particular gets best results.
No one can long be successful whose methods are not careful and honest
in the packing of apples.
_Equipment for Harvesting the Apple Crop._--There are some who insist
that the only way to pick apples is to use a basket lined with cloth.
These insist that the use of the basket in picking is the most careful
method and that the bruising of the apples is reduced to a minimum. I
have, however, seen apples handled very roughly in baskets. The picker
hangs the basket on the tree, on the ladder rung, or sets it on the
ground and then proceeds to shoot the apples into the basket from
distances of one foot or six or eight feet away.
The bottomless picking sack, with broad straps across the shoulders, has
come into use within the past few years in many commercial orchards. My
experience is that either the basket or sack is good if rightly handled,
and either may be objectionable if care is not exercised.
My own experience after using both is in favor of the sack. If care is
used no more bruising will be done than with the basket, and it is far
more expeditious. Both hands are at liberty for use in the picking. The
sack should not be shifted about, and the picker should not be allowed
to lean against the rungs of the ladder with the filled sack between.
The sack should be lowered into the picking crate so that the apples
have no drop in emptying the sack. Pointed ladders are the best for tall
trees and less liable to injure the tree or turn turtle and upset the
picker.
A packing house is essential if best results are to be obtained, but
many growers use the canvas-covered table in the orchard, picking and
packing the product from sixteen to thirty-six trees at a sitting, and
then moving the table to the next center, and in this way the entire
orchard. In good weather this is not so bad as might seem, but at times
the sun is very hot, or sudden showers saturate everything, and in the
late fall the weather is too cold and frosty for comfort. On the whole,
therefore, a good sized packing house or shed built at a convenient
place in or near the orchard is the more desirable method of handling
the crop. This building must be large enough to give room for a sorting
table three feet wide by sixteen or more feet in length, or, better
still, room for an apple grading machine of best pattern, which will
occupy about three feet by twenty feet. There should be a space on one
side or end of the building for unloading the bushel crates with which
all well regulated orchards should be equipped, when they come from the
orchard. These crates can be stacked up four or five deep, and there
should be adequate room for these based on necessities. There should be
room for at least a day's supply of apple barrels and a place to cooper
them up by driving the hoops and nailing same. There should be enough
room to face and fill barrels and head them up and to stack up enough
for half a day's hauling ahead.
The size of this building will depend upon whether you are barreling 100
barrels per day or 1,000 barrels. For the former a building 28x20 feet
will answer very well. For the latter amount 60x100 feet would be none
too large. This building should have skylights in the roof. I build
these of ordinary greenhouse sash about 3x6 feet, usually putting in two
of these in each building on the north or east side of the roof,
according to the slope, and directly over the sorting end of the table.
This will give you light an average of thirty minutes more each day and
prolong the day's work that much, or at least make it possible to do
better work on cloudy days and in the evenings.
The building should be approachable on all four sides with the wagon,
and doors either sliding or hinged should open at least ten feet wide
for taking apples in and out. For example, I have my sheds arranged to
take the fruit as it comes from the orchard on one side of the building.
The number one apples go out one door, and in case I use a grader the
number two go out another side. The cider apples also take their route.
The fourth side is used for supplying empty barrels as needed. Thus you
see the necessity for getting to all four sides. On the side where the
filled barrels are loaded onto the wagon there should be a raised
platform so that the loading can be carefully and easily done. A bin for
the cider or vinegar apples should be built with a roof on same.
Low-wheeled, platform wagons are needed to haul fruit from the orchard
to the packing house.
_The standard barrel of three bushels_ capacity is used generally by the
commercial orchardist in preference to the box. Good hoops are growing
scarcer every year, and some, including myself, are using two or four of
the six hoops required of the twisted splice steel wire variety as being
both safer and more economical. In transit or in storage they hold
better and do not break and scatter the contents of the barrel over the
car floor or storage warehouse.
The best floor for the apple house is concrete. The next best is to
cover the ground with coal cinders and lay 2x4 flat on the cinders,
filling between them with cinders to a level and nailing the floor
boards to these 2x4. This gives a good solid floor at little expense.
The walls are of 4x4 uprights, about eight feet apart, resting on 8×8×12
concrete blocks with a half inch iron rod imbedded in the concrete and
countersunk in lower end of upright 4×4 to keep the latter in place.
Nail ties of 2×4 are used, and to these are nailed common lumber
surfaced. The roof consists of 2×4 or 2×6 rafters, usually three feet
apart, with 1×6 boards spaced about three feet apart as sheeting. The
covering in this case is of galvanized corrugated iron, suitable length,
of No. 26 gauge. The doors of this building should be on rollers, and
with two or more double doors on each of the four sides to give plenty
of light and easy access to and from the building. The roof and dry
floor are the important parts of such a building, and you only need the
walls as a support and occasionally to break off the wind when weather
becomes chilly. What you should avoid in a packing house is narrow
doors, dark interior and access from only one or two sides.
_Picking._--I have found it most satisfactory to pick by the bushel,
keeping a foreman in the orchard to see that crates are filled full,
ladders and apples carefully handled. Each picker is provided with
tickets of a certain number which corresponds to the one opposite his
name on the sheet tacked to a small board or clip carried by the
foreman. Each picker is assigned a tree, and his empty boxes are
distributed to him from the wagon. When filled the number is tabulated
by the foreman and loaded onto the wagon and hauled to the packing shed.
Here they are stacked up and afterwards emptied onto the sorting tables
or machine grader, and from thence into the barrels.
_Hauling to Market._--The barrels when filled are not allowed to lie
around, but are hauled immediately to the car or storage. Failure of
winter apples to keep in storage may often be traced to the packing
shed, where the apples stand in the crates or lie in the barrels for a
number of days, perhaps a week or two in warm weather, before they are
forwarded to storage. Sometimes delays occur at the storage owing to
rush, and apples remain sometimes for a week or ten days in cars before
they are unloaded. It behooves the grower not only to watch his own
packing house for delays, but the storage company also. In one instance
I lost $1,000 on five cars of apples that were without refrigeration
five weeks owing to the storage warehouse not being completed. I knew
nothing about this until two years afterwards.
Hauling to the station is done on wagons or motor trucks equipped with a
rack that permits the barrels being carried lying down, but supported at
each end of the barrel so that the weight of the barrel does not come
upon the bilge. They can be so racked up that one wagon will carry
fifty-five barrels. A three-ton truck will carry forty barrels of apples
and haul forty more on trailer. Such an outfit in one of my orchards
makes five trips in one day a distance of four miles, traversing forty
miles and carrying 400 barrels of apples. One and one-half miles of this
is over a well-graded dirt road, and two and one-half over brick and
concrete pavement. In our Clay County, Illinois, orchards we have two
12-25 gasoline tractors that are used for cultivating during the summer
and for hauling apples in the fall. These machines easily haul 110
barrels of apples on two wagons and make two trips a distance of five
miles from orchard to town.
_Loading Cars._--I am surprised at the lack of knowledge of how to
properly load barreled apples into cars. Over half the cars going to
market are improperly loaded. The best way is to place all the barrels
crosswise of the cars with lower tier to the right side of the car, and
the second tier the left of the car with the bilge lying in the hollows
of the lower tier. The third tier should be at the right side again
directly over the lower tier. If a fourth tier is added they should be
at the left and directly over the second tier. In this way your apples
are loaded to carry with the least injury to the apples. Being uniformly
loaded they are easily counted from the top after they are in the car,
and your loader can verify his wagon load count after the apples are all
in and thus prevent mistakes.
_Packing Apples._--The packing season is a busy one. Often the grower
finds himself short of help, and when this is hard to get he is sure up
against it if he wants to do a good job of packing.
First make your estimate of the crop you have to harvest. If
inexperienced, get an experienced man to help you. You need this
estimate for two reasons. You must determine the number of packages you
need, which must be contracted for in advance, and you need to know how
much labor you need to get the crop in within the time limit. You should
not begin harvesting too early, for immature fruit, poorly colored,
brings a lower price, and you do not want to be so late that the fruit
mellows up or drops from the trees before it is gathered or is caught by
a freeze.
I will relate a little experience of mine in the latter connection. In
the autumn of 1911 I had a heavy crop on a hundred and twenty acre
orchard. The season was rainy, and we lost six days during October,
which put us across the line into November with our picking. The last
days of October or first of November brought a severe freeze when the
mercury went to twenty, or twelve below freezing. This lasted two nights
and one day. The apples were frozen absolutely solid through and through
on the trees. As I had over 12,000 bushels, all Willow Twigs,
unharvested, it was an anxious time for me. The second day was cloudy
with the temperature at thirty-four degrees, just freezing, and the
following night it remained at the same point, for we were enough
interested to note the temperature. This continued up until noon of the
third day, when the frost was out of the apples and we proceeded with
our picking. These apples kept perfectly and were sold the next May at
$4.50 per barrel. There was no perceptible difference between the
apples picked before or after the freeze. Two years later my experience
was different. We were caught with 1,000 bushels on the trees by an
equally severe freeze. The sun came out bright the following morning,
and by noon the temperature was up to fifty degrees. The apples turned
brown and looked like they had been baked. They were good only for
vinegar. The variety in both cases was Willow.
In packing apples it is a good plan to use a corrugated paper cap on
both ends of the barrel, in addition to a waxed paper next to the apples
on the face end, stenciled with the name of the grower and his
postoffice address. Use uniform sized apples for the face as much as
possible, and of good color. The face is permitted to be 20 per cent.
better than the contents. Drop facing I consider best for the second
layer rather than double facing, as it holds the face apple in position
better and presents a more solid face to the buyer when opened. The
barrels should be filled uniformly from bottom to top with an even grade
of fruit. No reputable packer will attempt any fraud upon the purchaser
in this respect. In tailing off the barrel preparatory to putting in the
head, the better way is to face the apples on their side in concentric
rings with the color side of the apple up. I would not select these
apples as to size or color, but let them correctly represent both as
they run through the barrel. There can be no objection, however, to your
putting the colored side of the apple up. We should always look as well
as we can, and first impressions if good, while not always lasting, are
desirable in the apple business of inspecting packages. In filling the
barrel care must be taken to gently settle the apples into place by
shaking the barrel from time to time as it is filled. After the bottom
is faced off the corrugated cap is placed on the apples, with the smooth
side next to the apples, and the head pressed into place. It is well to
use headliners to secure the heads and not trust to the use of nails
alone. Have some regard for the man who has to open these heads in
storage or the salesroom. Try a few yourself if you never have, and you
will use headliners for him who comes after if for no other reason.
Mr. Kellogg: How do you get rid of the waste apples that would rot in
the orchard?
Mr. Dunlap: We have a large vinegar plant, and we convert the cider into
vinegar and sell it as cider vinegar. We have sometimes shipped the
fresh product of the cider mill to factories, where it is made into
vinegar. Then there are evaporators for evaporating them. Take a certain
grade of apples not good to grind up into cider, and they evaporate this
grade of apples. Then there are canning factories that also take them.
The cider mill is a very good way to work up your culls and then sell as
vinegar.
A Member: What do these apple graders cost?
Mr. Dunlap: From $75.00 to $125.00. The price usually depends upon the
equipment.
A Member: Do you use clear cider for vinegar?
Mr. Dunlap: I use clear cider for making vinegar, and if it is too
strong to meet the requirements of the law we dilute it when we sell it.
A Member: I would like to ask if you have any difficulty in getting your
cider vinegar up to the requirements of the law?
Mr. Dunlap: We do not have any trouble about that, except that made from
summer apples. Any cider that will grade 18 or 24 with the saccharimeter
in the fall of the year, when it is made, will make good vinegar.
A Member: Do you pack all one-size of apples in a barrel?
Mr. Dunlap: No.
A Member: Do you use very nearly the same size apples in a barrel, or do
you put large ones at the top and bottom?
Mr. Dunlap: I have heard of growers doing that, but the only way to pack
a barrel honestly is to select your facers--the law permits that they
may have 20 per cent. advantage of the rest of the barrel. The rest of
the barrel ought to be graded uniformly throughout. I don't mean by that
they should all be apples of three or four inches diameter, but that
they run above a certain figure with a minimum of 2-1/4 or 2-1/2,
depending upon the variety you are packing. In running them over
graders, which sizes them, all over that size go over the apron and into
the barrel.
A Member: Do you face both ends of the barrel?
Mr. Dunlap: Yes, sir, we do. We do not undertake to select for the
bottom or tail of the barrel apples as to size or color, but we do
this--we lay those apples around in concentric rings and turn the color
side or best looking side of the apple up and as nearly level as may be
across the top and just the right height, so that when they are pressed
into the barrel the barrel will be tight enough so as not to have the
apples loose, and yet not have them bruised in the heading. It takes
practice to do that just at the right height.
The barrel should be shaken as it is being filled. If you do not shake
often when being filled and settle the apples down so they reach the
place where they belong, no matter how tight you make your barrel, when
it gets into the car and on the train and in motion that constant
shaking and jar will loosen the apples, and you will have a slack
barrel.
A Member: What sort of apples go to the canneries?
Mr. Dunlap: That, of course, depends upon the season. If the season is
such that the No. 2 apples are not worth any great amount of money, they
will buy everything except cull stock below the strictly No. 1 apple and
use them in the canning factory. If the price is high they will probably
take the drops, those dropped in picking, or good sound drops. We
usually make a practice of cleaning up our drops once a week off the
ground in picking time. Before we begin picking we clean the ground
entirely and run that through the vinegar factory, into the cider mill,
and after that is done any apples that drop in picking they are disposed
of in various ways, sometimes to the evaporator, sometimes to the
canning factory and sometimes they are shipped in bulk if they are good
sound apples and not injured in any way except perhaps for a few
bruises.
A Member: In debating the question of the grower and the cannery we are
anxious to know just how far it is practical to use apples--what apples
we can use after grading them, say, for instance, into Nos. 1 and 2? Can
we use a deformed apple? For instance, do the canners in your country
buy deformed apples--I mean lacking in roundness?
Mr. Dunlap: They can use them; they are a little more expensive to
handle when you put them on the fork to peel them. Of course, they have
to use the knife on them afterwards in those places where they are not
perfect, cutting out any imperfect spots on them. But as a rule they
require pretty fair quality of apple for cannery and above a certain
size. They wouldn't want to use anything less than two inches in
diameter, and from that on, and they get as good apples as they possibly
can. They have to limit themselves as to prices according to how much
they can get for their product.
A Member: What grader do you recommend?
Mr. Dunlap: Well, I don't think that I care to advertise any grader. I
am not interested in any.
A Member: You are a long way from home, and it might enlighten the rest
of us.
Mr. Dunlap: There are several graders on the market, and for all I know,
giving good service. I am using the Trescott, made in New York.
A Member: What is the matter with the Hardy?
Mr. Dunlap: I never used the Hardy--I don't know about that. Some of
them will bruise the apples more than others.
Mr. Sauter: What form of packing for apples will bring the best prices?
Mr. Dunlap: I investigated that. I have packed as high as a couple of
thousand boxes of apples, and I have taken the very best I had and
barreled. I picked out the extra selects and boxed them. Then I took a
No. 1 grade from those that that were left and the No. 2 grade, and my
No. 1 grade in barrels were disposed of before I could sell my boxes at
all in the market. The boxes were the last thing I could dispose of.
Considering the extra cost of boxing I was out of pocket in selling them
in boxes. Bushel baskets are all right, you can pack the basket with no
more expense than packing a barrel.
Mr. Brackett: What can a cannery afford to pay for apples?
Mr. Dunlap: I have never been in the cannery business, I could not tell.
Mr. Brackett: They are talking of starting a cannery where I live and I
wondered what they can afford to pay.
Mr. Dunlap: Some five or six years ago I sold a number of hundred
bushels to canneries at 60 cents per hundred pounds. Whether they can
afford to pay that or not I don't know. I haven't sold any to them for
several years now. In fact, I should judge they couldn't afford to pay
that for them because they went out of business.
Mr. Brackett: In other words, they can't pay over 35 or 30 cents a
bushel?
Mr. Dunlap: I don't know what they can afford to pay.
A Member: We had a canning factory that paid 40 cents a bushel of 50
pounds, that would be 80 cents a hundred.
Mr. Brackett: Are they still in business?
A Member: Yes, sir.
Mr. Sauter: We had one that paid 52 cents a bushel.
Mr. Dunlap: If they were to can these apples in Illinois and ship them
up here they have got to pay freight to come in competition with your
apples.
Mr. Sauter: I sprayed last spring first with lime-sulphur, and my
sprayer worked fine. I had a hand sprayer, but when I mixed the
lime-sulphur and the arsenate of lead it almost stopped up. What was the
matter, was it the mixture or the sprayer?
Mr. Dunlap: Most all of these mixtures when you put them together ought
to be more or less diluted.
Mr. Sauter: How long must they stand dissolved?
Mr. Dunlap: The lime-sulphur is in solution, and if you have that in
your water tank the best way is to put your arsenate of lead in in the
form of a paste and dilute it until you get it so that there is about
two pounds of arsenate of lead to a gallon of water, and with that you
can pour it into your tank and if you have an agitator in there you
won't have any difficulty with it. In the early days of spraying when we
used blue vitriol with lime, we tried a concentrated solution of the
blue vitriol and lime and found we couldn't get it through the strainer,
but by diluting it, putting our blue vitriol in one tank, and putting
half of our water that we intended putting in the sprayer in that, and
taking another tank and putting half the water and the lime in that and
then putting the two together in this diluted solution, we didn't have
any trouble, but in putting in the concentrated solutions together we
had a sticky mess and all sorts of trouble. It would not go through the
strainer.
Mr. Sauter: How does the powdered arsenate compare with the paste?
Mr. Dunlap: I haven't had any personal experience with the powder and I
would have to refer you to the experiment station.
Mr. Sauter: Powder mixes a great deal easier.
Mr. Dunlap: Yes, sir. I had this experience with hydrated lime. The
hydrated lime, as you know, comes in sacks and in the form of flour, and
all you have to do is just to pour that into the water, and there is no
trouble about mixing it at all. With lime from barrels that we used for
making bordeaux, we would slake it and run it off into barrels, and
there we diluted it so that we got two pounds to every gallon of water,
our stock solution. But with the hydrated lime we can take so much out,
so much by weight, and put it into the tank, and it dissolves right in
the water. But we found this difficulty as between slaked lime and the
hydrated lime. While the hydrated is very nice to use it did not possess
the adhesive quality that the regular slaked lime did, and it would wash
off the trees and take the vitriol solution with it, and we discontinued
its use.
Mr. Sauter: You think it best for anybody with a small orchard to make
his own lime-sulphur solution?
Mr. Dunlap: That depends on how he is equipped. It costs a great deal
less to make your own solution than it does to buy it. Whether you could
afford to do it or not depends upon the amount you spray and your
equipment. You really ought to have, in making your own lime-sulphur, a
steam boiler, although you can make it in an ordinary farm feed boiler.
You can boil it right in that and turn it out after it is made, stirring
it with a wooden paddle while cooking. I find that if we are equipped
for it we will make a product that is equal to the imported product, but
we ought to have a little more equipment. We ought to have steam and run
this steam into our cooking vat to keep it boiling at the right
temperature right along, and boil it for an hour, and then have a
mechanical agitator in the bottom of the tub that keeps it stirred up,
and keep the cover closed down as nearly tight as possible so as to
exclude the air as much as possible, letting the surplus steam escape,
and in that way we get a product as good as anything we are able to buy,
at less than half the price. If one is using a great quantity that is
the way to do it, but in small quantities I don't think it would pay to
bother with it. (Applause.)
Marketing Fruit at Mankato.
P. L. KEENE, UNIVERSITY FARM, ST. PAUL.
(Gideon Memorial Contest.)
Mankato has a population of about twelve thousand and is just about
within the car-lot market. In seasons of low production it can easily
use all the fruit grown in the vicinity, but in seasons of good
production some must be shipped out. This irregular supply makes it
difficult to obtain a satisfactory method of marketing the fruit.
Nearly all kinds of fruit are grown here. Apples, strawberries and
raspberries are grown to the greatest extent. There are several orchards
having from five hundred to a thousand trees, while many small fruit
growers have several acres of strawberries and raspberries. Plums,
blackberries, currants and gooseberries are grown on a smaller scale, so
that there is seldom enough produced to make it necessary to ship them.
The number of varieties grown is very great, as it is in almost every
locality where the industry is relatively young. There are over forty
varieties of apples grown on a more or less large scale. This makes the
marketing problem still more difficult. Many of the growers are
beginning to specialize in two or three varieties, such as Wealthy,
Patten, Northwestern and Malinda. Last year some of the growers produced
as many as five carloads. Small fruits are brought in by the wagon load
during the heaviest part of the season, making it possible for the fruit
houses to load a car in a day.
The commercial growers use good, practical methods of culture, keeping
the land well cultivated and using cover crops and mulch; but many of
the small growers of half-way fruit men--those who do not specialize in
fruit growing--neglect their orchards. Most growers properly prune and
thin their trees and bushes, while many are beginning to spray.
In the picking, grading and packing of the fruit is where the great
majority fail. After they have grown the fruit carefully and
successfully, they fail to properly harvest and dispose of it. This
fault lies in the fact that they have specialized in the production of
their product and have given little time or attention to the marketing
of it. They realize, though, that success in fruit growing depends as
largely upon proper marketing as upon proper growing.
The first step in marketing is the picking of the fruit. Fruit, as any
other product, should be picked at a certain time; and the grower who
allows his fruit to remain on the tree or bush too long, as is often
done with the apple, until his work is caught up, is the grower who
receives unsatisfactory prices for his product. Many farmers bring
windfalls and bruised apples mixed with the hand picked ones and expect
as much as the grower who carefully picks his apples. The picking
utensils are also often a cause of injury. Tin pails, wooden buckets and
boxes are used to too great an extent. These naturally bruise more or
less of the apples as they are put into the pails, especially if extreme
care is not used. The pouring of the fruit from one receptacle into
another is still another source of injury.
The small fruit grower usually handles his fruit with greater care than
the apple grower does, for the simple reason that improper handling of
these fruits soon shows itself, and the grower may find that he is
unable to dispose of his fruit. The most common cause of injury to small
fruit is over-ripeness.
[Illustration: P. L. Keene.]
The improper sorting and grading of fruit is another cause of
unprofitable returns. All bruised, wormy or injured apples should be
discarded at picking time. The presence of only a few inferior fruits in
a lot will bring the price down considerably. The same holds true with
berries, and is even more important, for if one berry rots it soon
spreads disease to the other berries. For this reason the sorting out of
all inferior fruit is essential, even more so than grading.
The grading aids in getting better prices but is not necessary for
profitable results. If small fruit is well sorted, the growers claim
that it is not necessary to grade it, for the fruit will then be fairly
uniform.
With apples, grading is distinctly beneficial. Many marketable apples
may be blemished so that their appearance is hurt, while their keeping
and shipping qualities are but slightly injured. The best grade must
contain apples uniform in size, shape and color, and free from all
blemishes. Hence it is readily seen why at least two grades are
essential. The growers at Mankato do not grade their apples to more than
one grade and this amounts only to sorting. The best of the commercial
apple growers carefully sort out the small and injured fruits, but a
large portion of the growers even neglect this to some extent.
The method of packing the fruit is very variable, and in fact a large
part of it is not packed at all. Most of the small fruit growers use the
sixteen quart crate, while the apple, if it is packed at all, is packed
in barrels. One requirement of a package is that it be clean, and if it
must be clean a secondhand package cannot be used. Many fall down here
by using secondhand, odd sized and dirty crates or barrels. The shipping
crate should be kept out of the field and off of the ground. The place
for it is in the packing house.
The apple growers often take their barrels into the field to fill them
and thus more or less soil them. This is not done to any great extent at
Mankato, for most of the barrel packing is done at the fruit houses, the
growers bringing in the apples loose in a wagonbox. This is a good
system as the apples are only handled three times: from the tree to the
picking basket, from the picking basket to the wagonbox, and from here
into barrels. By this method the apples are sorted both at the picking
and barreling time. If the apples are to be graded or packed at the
farm, a packing house should be provided at or near the orchard.
It is needless to speak of the slack and inefficient method of marketing
apples in sacks, salt barrels and odd boxes; but this is still done by
some half-way growers. They often have to either take the fruit back and
feed it to the pigs or give it away. Even when they are able to sell it,
they barely cover expense of picking and marketing.
Several methods of selling their fruit are available to the growers
around Mankato. The different methods used are (1) selling direct to
consumer, (2) selling to stores, (3) selling to wholesale houses, (4)
selling to commission men.
The amount handled in the "direct to the consumer" way is rather large
in the case of small fruit, but there is very little so-called "apple
peddling" done. Some growers have regular customers whom they supply
yearly with a barrel or more of apples, but this is usually some friend
or relative. Some growers peddle out their summer apples by driving
through the residence sections of the city and selling to anyone who
wants to buy and in such quantities as they desire, but not all growers
care to follow this plan. Sales are always made for cash, except perhaps
where a person is a regular customer. This method is too unsatisfactory
to be used for winter apples but is often advantageous in disposing of a
large crop of summer apples. The fruit is not usually in very good
shape, and is often that which the fruit dealers have rejected. The
fruit is marketed in any package that happens to be handy, or loose, in
the box, and is measured out usually in small quantities to the buyer.
[Illustration: A load of apples from P.L. Keene's orchard, near Mankato]
The handling of berries direct to consumer is much more systematized and
therefore proves more satisfactory to both parties concerned. The
majority of growers sell a considerable quantity in this way. They pack
in sixteen quart crates, and usually will not divide a crate. The
berries are for the most part delivered on order of the customer, for
cash. Each grower has his regular customers, and some advertise to a
limited extent. This method is usually satisfactory to the grower for he
sells at a fixed price, and over that which he could get at the stores.
He finds that it pays him to furnish good berries, for if he delivers a
poor crate the lady receiving that crate is sure to make it known to her
neighbors, while a good crate will add to his reputation. Therefore, the
grower will take particular pains to have the boxes well filled with
good berries and delivered promptly, in order to hold this trade. In
compensation he receives a good price, regular customers and a sure
market for his product.
The amount handled through the stores is about equal to that handled
direct to the consumer, but in some seasons it is not as great. The
grower demands cash, for he can get it at the other places, while most
of the stores prefer cash rather than a trade basis, on account of the
bother of handling the trade checks. Some stores, by offering a higher
trade price, try to draw trade, but this does not attract the commercial
grower. It may, however, attract the half-way grower. Most stores do not
try to handle more than they can dispose of themselves. It is the small
grower who sells to the stores. The large grower cannot get the prices
that will pay him to bother with the store trade, while the fruit houses
do not want to handle the small fruit grower's product, for it is
usually of inferior quality. Hence, the store trade is a necessity under
present conditions, even though it is not a very satisfactory method.
The apples are brought to the stores in the same packages as to the
consumer direct. The berries are handled in the same packages, but the
condition and quality are more apt to be inferior than with those sold
to the consumer. The stores usually re-sort the fruit before they sell
it. They very seldom ship fruit. In case they get more on their hands
than they can sell, they either store it for a few days, or sell to the
wholesale fruit houses.
There is more fruit handled by either one of the two wholesale fruit
houses than by any other single way in Mankato. They handle the bulk of
the apple crop grown commercially but will not take inferior fruit. The
small fruit growers market a considerable portion of their crops through
them, especially in years when they have more than they can dispose of
to consumers. The wholesale houses offer no fixed price, except it be in
a contract with some individual grower whom they know will bring in good
fruit. When a load comes in they look it over and bid on it. If the
grower is satisfied with the price, he sells, and if not he tries the
other house or the stores.
The commercial growers usually bring in their apples loose in the
wagon-box, and the apples are packed into barrels here. This insures a
clean barrel, properly packed. It enables the buyer to look over the
load as it is being unloaded. One or two growers have a reputation good
enough that the houses will buy their fruit barreled. All small fruits
are handled in the sixteen quart crates and are not repacked. The
grower delivers them as up to grade on his reputation, which will not
last long if he does not furnish good berries. The grower usually tells
the wholesaler when they were picked and the condition they are in. They
do a cash business only.
Very little has been handled through the commission men of other cities.
A few carloads have been shipped to Minneapolis, but returns were not as
satisfactory as when sold to the wholesale houses. In shipping the
grower has to take more risk and do more work, such as packing and
loading the car, than when he sells to the wholesaler. Most growers
prefer to sell to the houses than to do this extra work, which they are
neither used to, nor capable of handling. Besides this, most growers do
not have enough fruit at any one time to load a car.
There is no co-operative association at the present time, but the
growers were trying to organize one last winter. In a certain way there
is an agreement among the small fruit growers, in that nearly all of
them agree to market their fruit in the sixteen quart crate and stick to
certain prices as far as possible, and not to cut prices under other
growers. This applies especially to the "direct to the consumer" trade.
There are no street venders to whom the growers can sell nor with whom
they would have to compete, and there is no city market at Mankato.
Storage conditions have not been developed. The wholesale houses have
small storage rooms of their own, but do little storing of home grown
products, as they ship them out as soon as they get a carload. The
stores store a few days in case they get an over-supply on hand. The
growers store apples in their own cellars, often keeping them until the
following spring. A few city people buy apples in the fall and store for
winter use, but it is not very satisfactory for the storage houses do
not regulate the temperature accurately enough.
* * * * *
PRUNING OF CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES.--The main reason that
currant and gooseberry bushes do not yield satisfactory crops from year
to year is due to the lack of proper pruning.
Both currants and gooseberries produce their fruit on canes that are at
least two years old, the first season being generally utilized for the
growing of the canes, the second for the formation of fruit buds or
spurs, and the third a full crop may be expected. These canes will bear
for two and even three years, but each year after the third they begin
to show a decided decline--the fruit becomes smaller and less valuable.
In order to keep the production up to the standard, the bush should be
placed on the rotation basis, that is, each year a few new, strong
shoots should be permitted to grow. All the rest should be cut out, and
also each spring a like number of the oldest canes should be removed. In
other words, we should grow the same number of new canes that we take
out in old canes. In this way, we eliminate the old and exhausted canes
and keep the bushes in strong, vigorous growth. Further, as the season
progresses, all shoots beyond those that we wish to use for fruiting
later on should be removed and not permitted to utilize the food supply
that should go to the fruiting canes.--E.P. Sandsten, Col. Agri.
College.
Support for an Overloaded Fruit Tree.
MISS NELLIE B. PENDERGAST, DULUTH.
Some years ago the writer wearied of the many objectionable features
connected with propping overloaded apple trees, and found relief in a
new application of the maxim of modern charity--"help people to help
themselves."
The average apple tree is quite capable of supporting its load of fruit,
with a little assistance in applying its strength. This is
satisfactorily given by overhead supports. My method is as follows:
Take a piece of gas pipe, the diameter depending on the size of the tree
and consequent weight of the load, and long enough to extend some two or
three feet above the tree. The required height would be governed by the
spread of the branches and the distance between the trunk of the tree
and the proper point for support of the limbs.
The pipe is placed against the trunk of the tree, pushed a few inches
into the ground, and tied in several places tightly to the tree. On the
top (which must be screw-threaded) is screwed an ordinary gas pipe end.
Heavy cords are then run through holes in the top piece and tied to the
branches wherever needed--the same cord often being made to tie several
branches which are in line perpendicularly.
[Illustration: View of apple tree with fruit laden branches supported by
pipe or wire.]
The branches should be wrapped with a bit of burlap or other suitable
padding under the cord, as otherwise the friction resulting from the
inevitable swaying of the heavy limbs on windy days would result in
rubbing the bark off and possibly entirely girdling the branch. Pads
should also be placed between the gas pipe and the tree trunk wherever
there is contact, and under the rope where tied.
What Frisky is Telling the Veteran Horticulturist.
CHAS. F. GARDNER, OSAGE, IOWA.
I am your cunning little squirrel, and as you have named me Frisky and
have adopted me as a regular member of your family, I will tell you some
little things I know about horticulture, or more properly, forest tree
planting.
[Illustration: Our squirrel.]
My ancestors from way back through geological ages have all been lovers
of nut trees and especially conifers. If you knew of the great districts
covered with valuable timber that have come into existence by reason of
our planting of nuts and conifer seed, you would be very much surprised.
While we gather large quantities of seed for use as food during the
long, cold winter months, each one of us secretes several thousand seed
annually, widely scattered, in good places for trees to grow. The most
of these scattered seeds remain in the ground and germinate where they
were planted.
My grandfather on my mother's side has told me that some of his
relatives in Scotland were once accused of doing considerable injury to
plantations of firs and pines by gnawing off the top shoots, which you
know make pretty good eating for a hungry little squirrel. Wasn't that a
great thing to make a fuss about? I believe my grandpa knew as much as
you do about the real existence and natural history of the mastodon,
the megatherium, the paleotherium and the pterodactyl.
In the planting of forest trees we were assisted by birds. I will name a
few who helped us the most in this northern latitude, or, as you call
it, "the blizzard belt." You showed me the other day two beautiful oak
trees, on your grounds that were planted by crows. Bluejays are great
seed planters, also mourning doves; and the wild pigeons, now extinct,
were great planters of many nut trees. Almost every variety of birds has
assisted us in the planting of the seeds of trees, bushes and, in fact,
all plants that bear valuable fruits or nutritious seeds.
[Illustration: Chas. F. Gardner at his best.]
While I think of it, I will tell you that I was born in a beautiful
nest, made of moss, twigs and dry leaves curiously interwoven in the
fork of a tree at a considerable height from the ground. I had four
little brothers and sisters. We loved each other dearly and had a good
time all cuddled up in our sweet little home. I wish you would let me go
and visit them sometime this summer. Now if you have no objection I will
take a little nap.--Frisky.
Top-Working.
O. W. MOORE, VETERAN HORTICULTURIST, SPRING VALLEY.
From my experience in fruit growing I have come to the conclusion that
the best method to apply in starting a commercial orchard in this
section of country would be to gather apple seed from Duchess and
Hibernal apples and plant them, in order that we might grow hardy
seedling roots to be used in making root-grafts. After growing these
apple seedlings one year I would graft short pieces of their roots to
long Hibernal scions, plant them out in the nursery row and grow them
the first year as a whip or single shoot. The second year before growth
starts in the spring I would cut those whips back to the height where I
wanted to start the head of the tree. After growth starts rub off all
the buds except from four to six at the top, these being left to form
the head of the tree. The trunk of the tree below these buds should be
kept clear of all growth at all times.
By this method we get uniform trees, as the heads, or tops, are all of
an equal distance from the ground and all run very nearly the same size.
Now we have those trees two years old in the nursery row, and as a
foundation for hardiness we have done our best. We have taken seed from
our hardiest apples to grow our seedling roots; we have grafted Hibernal
scions onto those roots, which is supposed to be the hardiest apple wood
that we have. Still there is one point that has not been touched upon,
and that is, that it is not to be supposed that all of those seedling
roots from the seed of our hardiest apples will be hardy. You may ask
why? Well, because mother nature does not do business that way. We hear
now and then the remark, "He is a good mixer." Well, if any man or set
of men can beat mother nature at mixing they will have to do better in
the future than they have done in the past.
But remember that we have the Hibernal as a scion above those roots, and
that is the best apple wood to root from the scion that I know of. Some
may ask, why not use the Virginia crab? I answer, for the reasons above
stated, as I have tried both.
Our trees are two years old now and are ready to be planted in the
orchard where they are to remain. Grow them in orchards one year. But if
from drouth or some other cause they do not make a satisfactory growth,
grow them two years. Then top-work their four or six limbs about six
inches from their forks to any kind of apple that you wish to produce in
a commercial way--but leave all small growth below those unions the
first year. The second year cut everything away but the scions.
If the planter will follow the above methods I am willing to stake my
reputation as a fruit grower that he will have an orchard that will stay
with him and give satisfaction.
Very many apple trees, especially seedlings, when they come to bearing
age are found to be worthless or nearly so. If those trees are taken in
hand at any time under ten years old they can be readily top-worked to
some good apple and completely changed in two years' time. The first
year work center limbs or leaders, leaving the lower growth to be worked
the second year. The third year by cutting everything away but the
growth of the scions we have the tree changed over to a better variety
of fruit. As to the size of limbs to graft I have always made it a point
to never work limbs over one inch in diameter. But from one inch down to
whip-grafting size, limbs from three-quarters to one inch, we set two
scions. The wound heals sooner with two scions than with one. If there
is too much growth in a year or two, cut a part of it away just above
the union.
Evergreens.
JENS A. JENSEN, ROSE CREEK.
Why not grow evergreens in the place of willows? When I came to Mower
County if there were any trees planted they were willows, a few Lombardy
poplars and Balm of Gilead.
Since 1890 there has been a great deal of planting of evergreens,
especially around Austin and Rose Creek.
Some people think it hard to grow evergreens. One mistake they make is
in planting too large trees. Another is in planting them in June grass
sod, a sod that will not wet down one inch in a rain that lasts
twenty-four hours.
Evergreens should be planted in cultivated land, and then they will grow
surprisingly fast. Plant trees from one to two feet. If wanted for a
windbreak, plant eight feet apart; if two rows are wanted, plant trees
sixteen feet apart, in rows four feet apart, the trees planted
alternately. Norway, White and Black Hills spruce, also White, Scotch
and Jack pine are doing well here.
IN MEMORIAM--EZRA F. PABODY
EZRA F. PABODY was born in Vernon, Indiana, July 26th, 1838. His
father's name was Ezra F. Pabody, and his mother's maiden name was Mabel
Butler. Comrade Pabody was married in Oxford, Ohio, October 10th, 1866,
to Emma A. Brown.
[Illustration: Portrait of the late Ezra F. Pabody, from a photograph
taken ten years ago.]
His education was acquired by attending, first, the common schools at
Vernon, Indiana, until he was sixteen years of age; and in September,
1854, he entered Hanover College, where he spent five years. In 1859, he
entered Miami University, Oxford, Ohio, and graduated from that
University in June, 1860. In September of that same year he entered
Princeton Theological Seminary, where he studied for one year with a
view to entering the ministry, but the condition of his health
interfered with his carrying out this purpose.
In 1861, having come to Minnesota, and as volunteers were being enlisted
to crush the rebellion, which threatened our country with destruction,
his spirit of patriotism impelled him to offer his services to aid in
maintaining the government. Accordingly he enlisted at Fort Snelling,
September 25th, 1861, and was enrolled in Company "A," Third Minnesota
Volunteers. In November of that year he was appointed Hospital Steward
of the Regiment, but he was unable long to endure the activities of the
service, and on July 9th, 1862, was discharged on account of
disability. However, his loyal spirit would not allow him to rest if
there was a place where he might serve effectively, and accordingly, on
August 24th, 1862, he enlisted again,--this time in the 79th Indiana
Volunteer Infantry, and was assigned to duty as Hospital Steward, in
which office he continued until discharged for disability December 18th,
1862.
After his army service, he engaged in the drug business at Vernon,
Indiana. In 1875 he removed to Minneapolis and here followed the same
line of business until 1888.
In August, 1890, he was prevailed upon to take up City Mission work in
connection with Westminster Church, and was ordained to the Gospel
ministry in 1900.
Retiring from the active work of the ministry in 1903, he passed the
remaining years of his life in his quiet home at Zumbra Heights, Lake
Minnetonka, where the death angel found him September 21st, 1915, after
a long period of illness.
His memory will be lastingly perpetuated by the development of his city
mission work, known as "Riverside Mission," a neglected portion of
Minneapolis, embracing what is known as "The River Flats," where the
inhabitants, mostly foreigners, and in need of religious instruction,
were taught by this faithful missionary and his estimable and
consecrated wife to speak and sing the language of Heaven.
The faithful wife and co-laborer, one son, E. Fitch Pabody, and one
daughter, Eleanor (Mrs. Ward H. Benton), all of Minneapolis, survive
him.
Mr. Pabody is, of course, best known to the members of this society on
account of his service with it in the past thirteen years. While not one
of the oldest members of the society from a point of years in his
connection with the society, in point of service he ranks very high, for
during all the period of his service he was always finding something to
do for the association. Several times he was on the program, in a number
of official capacities he served the society, and especially as a member
of the reception committee during a number of our annual meetings was he
of largest use to the association, and his courteous and kindly ways we
especially remember. Mr. Pabody was very near to the writer personally,
and his taking away is largely in the nature of a personal loss. Mr.
Pabody had a great love for horticultural pursuits. His garden and
orchard occupied very much of his thoughts during the later years of his
life, when he lived on the shores of Lake Minnetonka. It is hard to part
with these old members who have so much endeared themselves to us in
these many thoughtful ways.--Secy.
Bread Cast upon the Waters.
C. S. HARRISON, YORK, NEB.
The instance recited below has nothing particularly to do with
horticulture but a good deal to do with a "horticulturist," C. S.
Harrison, of York, Neb., that picturesque veteran in horticulture, who
has been an attendant at our meetings now for so many years, adding such
a strong interest to our annual gatherings. Mr. Harrison recited at our
late meeting the incident referred to here--without the denouement,
which came to him in California this winter, where he met Mr. Lindbergh,
one of Minnesota congressmen. As a result of this incident we had Mr.
Harrison with again at our late summer meeting.--Secy.
In 1861 I was living in Sauk Center, Minn., where I preached the first
sermon. I had a tract of country under my care 100 miles in extent and
had all sorts of work to do. Ten miles from Sauk Center there was a
sturdy Swede who was at one time speaker in one branch of the Swedish
parliament and for a while secretary to the king. He moved to Minnesota
about the year '60. It seems he had not learned the art of graft, and he
was poor. He took up a preemption and built him a little log house
12×16. One day he took a load of logs to the mill and, stumbling, fell
on the saw. This caught him in the back and split it open, and also took
a stab at his right arm.
It was hot weather and no surgeon within fifty miles. I followed him to
his home; we did not think he could live. I picked out the sawdust and
rags from his back and kept the wounded arm wrapped in cold water, and
now for a surgeon I got a horse from a neighbor and a man to ride him. I
said, "Don't hurt the horse but go as fast as it is safe." Twenty miles
ahead I knew another man with whom he could exchange horses, and then
another relay brought him to the doctor. Dr. Hunter proved to be a good
surgeon. We had kept the patient with such care that with his clean
habits and robust constitution he underwent the operation all right. I
helped the doctor, and we took off the arm near the shoulder. I had a
busy time until the surgeon came. I stayed with the man all day, then
drove home ten miles and was by his side early. It took the doctor about
three days to get there. The horses were poor, and the auto did not
exist even in a dream. By the next December the old hero was out
chopping rails with his left hand.
How poor the people were! Every dollar had a big task before it. The
good doctor only charged $20. I rode quite a distance--got a little here
and there and paid the bill. A son of the old man, C. A. Lindbergh, is
now representative in congress from the 6th district of Minnesota. We
discovered each other this winter. I have kept up a pleasant
correspondence. His daughter, Eva, who helps her father, has just
written me that she is going to be married in Minneapolis in June, and
she wants me to perform the ceremony. All the friends and relatives will
be there, and she wants the man who saved her grandpa. Thus, after
fifty-five years, stirring memories of the past are awakened and happy
anticipations of the future.--C. S. Harrison.
SECRETARY'S CORNER
MORE EVERBEARING STRAWBERRIES.--Mr. Walter Ferguson, of
Mankato, has pretty near the record number of strawberry plants raised
last year. From four plants of No. 1017 everbearing strawberries he
reports having raised several over six hundred. He says he reset twelve
new plants in July and they produced over three hundred.
ADVANCE PREMIUM LIST, ANNUAL MEETING, 1916.--Elsewhere in this
number will be found an advance list of premiums to be offered on
vegetables and apples at the coming annual meeting of the society. There
will be practically no change from this list, though there may be slight
additions to it. Possible exhibitors may feel safe to save material for
exhibition in accordance with the premiums therein offered.
PASSING OF J.F. BENJAMIN.--Members of the society who have
attended our annual meetings for the last ten or more years will readily
recall the face and figure of this very loyal member of the society, who
was always at hand to serve in any capacity as opportunity came to him.
Mr. Benjamin was a successful fruit grower, not only from a financial
standpoint but from his love of the art. We hope to publish a suitable
sketch of his life at some later date.
MUNICIPAL CAMPS IN NATIONAL FORESTS.--The City of Fresno,
California, has established a fifteen-acre camp in an adjoining national
forest, providing low cost outings for the school children of that city
and their parents. Los Angeles is doing something similar on even a
larger scale, and other municipalities are following suit. Minnesota has
splendid national forests, and the time may come when the state or some
of the municipalities of the state may be able to make similar use of
these forests for the benefit of our people who are not able to go to
larger expense to secure needed summer outing.
THE APPLE CROP.--The Department of Agriculture in its August
1st report forecasts an apple crop of seventy-one million barrels
against seventy-six million last year and a yearly average for the past
five years of sixty-six million. The favored regions in apple growing
this year are in the New England states and the Pacific states, the
Central states showing a very large falling off in the apple crop,
anywhere from four-fifths to one-fourth of previous years.
NATIONAL VEGETABLE GROWERS' ASSOCIATION.--It seems there is an
association of this character, called "Vegetable Growers' Association of
America," and it will hold its next annual meeting in LaSalle Hotel,
Chicago, September 26-29. Representatives of local vegetable growers'
associations' will probably do well to get in touch with this national
gathering. If any go from this state the secretary will be glad to
receive from them a report of the meeting. Marketing, soil fertility,
heating, packing, spraying and other subjects will be covered on the
program. For further information address James B. Foley, Secretary, 3100
South Spaulding Avenue, Chicago.
APPLE TREES AS A WINDBREAK.--John W. Maher, of Devils Lake,
N.D., in correspondence has spoken at two different times of the use of
apple trees as one feature of windbreaks in his vicinity, using such
varieties as Duchess, Patten's Greening, Hibernal, etc. In this
connection he says "probably it is only the amateur horticulturist who
sets a row of young apple trees in the stubble fields as a windbreak for
apple grafts, but this has been done here and the windbreak is
satisfactory. I believe that the apple is more hardy in this kind of
soil than it is generally considered to be. If the apple tree is
properly limbed so as to shade its trunk and larger limbs it is a real
success."
HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY PERIODICALS.--February, 1894, the first
number of the monthly issued by this society was published and sent out
to its members. Publishing the report in this way as a monthly was an
experiment, which has proved to be a very successful one indeed, and
this method of publication has now for a long time been a permanent
feature of the work of this society. In 1894 the society had about six
hundred members. The increase in the membership of the association since
that period has brought the roll to high water mark this year at 3,700.
At that time as far as we know no other horticultural society was
publishing its report as a monthly. Quite a number of state societies
are now doing something of this sort, though not exactly following the
same plan as the Minnesota society, our report appearing as a monthly
magazine and being bound up later with list of members, index, etc.,
making altogether the annual report. The only association that has
exactly followed our plan is the Manitoba Society. Wisconsin, Kansas,
Nebraska, Virginia and other associations not now recalled are sending
out a monthly to their membership. Illinois and perhaps some others are
publishing a quarterly. Some of the state boards of horticulture are
publishing a monthly, notably the California board, and in some cases
the state boards of agriculture are doing this also. The plan
inaugurated by this society is being slowly popularized and will
undoubtedly continue to be made use of more and more as the study and
practice of horticulture develops in our country.
GARDEN HELPS
Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society
Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So.
Minneapolis.
GARDEN HELPS FOR SEPTEMBER.
_September Meeting of the Garden Flower Society_ will be held on the
twenty-first, at 2:30 p.m., at the Minneapolis Public Library.
_Topics_, "Fall Work in the Garden."
"Planting for Fall and Winter Effects."
"Vines and Their Uses."
Have you taken any photographs of your garden, its individual flowers,
or wild flowers for our photographic contest? It is not too late yet to
get good pictures. Every member is urged to enter this competition.
_Plant peonies this month._ Old clumps of hardy perennials may be
divided and reset early this month. Flowering bulbs intended to be in
bloom at Christmas should be potted now. Grass seed for new lawns or bad
places in old ones can be sown this month.
The daffodil makes an early growth and should be planted this month.
After the first killing frosts the tender roots, like cannas, gladioli,
elephant's ears, and dahlias, can be lifted with a fork and spread out
under cover to dry, then stored in a cool cellar, free from frost.
Do not cultivate the soil after September first.
All newly set plants should be mulched lightly.
All litter about the garden can be cleared away. Any plants that have
been infested with insects or diseased should be burned. Leave no
harbors for the eggs of insects, such as old weeds, grasses or litter of
any kind.
Seeds of native plants which you wish to naturalize should be gathered
and sowed immediately in a shaded, well drained location, where the soil
has some humus.
Lily-of-the-valley should be planted this month.
Try planting a few sweet peas late in September or early October.
Important September blooming flowers are phlox, Japanese anemones;
perennial asters, or Michaelmas daisy, so-called because they are
supposed to be at their best on Michaelmas Day, September 29th;
helleniums, helianthus, hardy chrysanthemum, pyrethrum uliginosum,
boltonia.
If you have not these flowers, try and visit some garden where they are
blooming in order to know what kinds to grow.
Poppies for next June's blooming can be sown this month.
Be prepared for the first early frosts, having ready to use some light
covering, such as cheesecloth. The garden can be prolonged from two to
six weeks by this slight protection.
ORCHARD NOTES.
Conducted monthly by R. S. MACKINTOSH, Horticulturalist,
Extension Division, University Farm, St. Paul.
A CONFERENCE OF HORTICULTURAL EXTENSION WORKERS.
A conference of the Horticultural Extension leaders of Wisconsin,
Kansas, Nebraska, South Dakota, Iowa and Minnesota was held early in
August at the Iowa State College, at Ames. The subject of apple and
potato clearing houses was the chief question discussed. The work of
this kind was started by Professor Greene in Kansas when they had the
big apple crop in 1913. Later Iowa and Minnesota undertook similar work.
It is expected that a co-operative plan will be formulated which will be
of greater value than when each state works alone.
The visiting members were very glad to have President Pearson discuss
co-operation as he saw it while visiting a dozen or more countries in
Europe.
One hour was spent in an automobile tour of the grounds and farms.
Considerable land from one to three miles from the main campus is now
used for experimental work. One of the latest additions to the
horticultural equipment is a cold storage plant and range of
greenhouses, costing over sixty thousand dollars.
HORTICULTURAL TOUR IN WESTERN IOWA AND EASTERN NEBRASKA.
The horticultural societies of Iowa and Nebraska joined in an automobile
tour of the orchards, vineyards, nurseries, and truck farms August 2 to
4. The first day was spent in and around Council Bluffs. Interest
centered around the large Co-operative Grape Growers' Association. A
grand picnic dinner was served by the ladies. This association has been
in active operation for fifteen years. Professor Beach emphasized the
value of the work that is being done, and especially the value of having
a contented lot of people in a community mutually interested in one kind
of work. On the return trip a stop was made at the experimental apple
orchard that is conducted by the Horticultural Department of the Iowa
State College. This orchard of 900 trees was leased in 1910 for ten
years to determine if an old orchard that has been unprofitable could be
made profitable. Careful records have been kept of expenses and of the
size and grade of all fruits produced under the several soil treatments.
To date six crops have been harvested from the 475 trees under
experiment. The lowest was 1,700 bushels in 1911 and the largest was
6,000 bushels in 1915. It is estimated that there is about thirty per
cent. of a crop on the trees this year. Demonstrations were given in
spraying, dynamiting trees, treating trees affected with blister canker,
and grading apples with a large grading machine.
The second day was spent in orchards near Omaha. Some excellent orchards
that have been very profitable were visited. It had been very dry in
that region, consequently the fruit was undersized.
The third day was spent in southwestern Iowa, from Hamburg to Glenwood.
It is impossible to tell about all the good things seen on this trip. We
saw all kinds of pruning, cultivated and "sod cultivated" orchards and,
above all, corn, corn and more corn. At Shenandoah the nurserymen and
seedsmen took charge of the party and entertained all in a very
hospitable manner. There were ninety at the noon banquet. In the
afternoon they showed us the large nurseries and seed warehouse.
Toward the end of the trip we stopped at a 40-acre orchard, mostly
Grimes Golden. A hailstorm had injured the fruit very much.
One of the great lessons gained from the 150-mile automobile tour was
the fact that _spraying_ is _one_ of the _most important orchard
operations_. It was interesting to hear what some of the older
orchardists would say when they saw fruit injured by scab. It is an
important matter with them, because it means dollars to have
disease-free fruit to market.
[Illustration: VETERAN DOUGLAS FIR, STANDING MILES OUT FROM THE
PROTECTING MOUNTAIN, EXPOSED TO ALL THE FIERCE WINDS OF THE
PLAINS.]
While it is not the intention to publish anything in this
magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be
remembered that the articles published herein recite the
experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must
always be noted in estimating their practical value.
THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST
Vol. 44 OCTOBER, 1916 No. 10
Camping on the Yellowstone Trail.
CLARENCE WEDGE, NURSERYMAN, ALBERT LEA, MINN.
I suppose that civilization is the correct thing for mortals to aspire
to. As a boy, while I hated it with a bitter hatred, I accepted it as
inevitable because my elders approved it and because it seemed
indissolubly linked to the school, the church and the things of good
repute. As I grow older the yoke sits easier on my shoulders, but doubts
have increased as to its necessary connection with the good, the true
and the beautiful. It surely kills the sweet virtue of hospitality. In
my home church lately there was a call for volunteers to entertain a
visiting delegation, and I was interested in observing how perfectly the
number that might be accommodated in any home was in inverse ratio to
the size and furnishings of the house. High heeled shoes and hobble
skirts, two-story starched collars and tile hats are fashion signs of
civilization, but I cannot see why a ring in the nose and a tattooed arm
might not have answered just as well. I am getting harder to convince
that a broad foot, shaped on the lines laid down by the Creator, is less
beautiful or desirable than the one-toe pointed shoe, decreed just now
by our particular brand of culture, and today I would as lief defend the
cult of the simple red man as the savagery that disgraces the lands
across the water.
Whatever the merits of the matter, for one month of the year we and our
tent and automobile abandon ourselves to barbarism, and live as we
please. This year we chose to spend our month on the Yellowstone Trail,
the road that leads from the Twin Cities to the Yellowstone National
Park, and which is different from other roads leading in the same
direction mainly by its yellow mark, faithfully directing the traveler
on his way and preventing the loss of time in getting directions at
doubtful cross roads. Our party consisted of a young botanist, and his
wife, my wife, myself and our small boy Alan. Our equipment consisted of
a tent, 7x7 ft., weighing, stakes, poles, partition and all, 16-1/2
lbs.; a trunk on the running board made to hold bedding and grub box,
and an oil cloth to use as a tent floor. Like the Indians we go light,
and live the simple life while on the trail. We get off at six o'clock
in the morning, eating our breakfast on the move as we get hungry; lunch
at noon by the roadside, and camp early, seeking the most interesting
spot, from the top of a butte to a pleasant river valley--and cooking
the one square meal of the day by such a brushwood fire as we are able
to gather.
[Illustration: "Us" and some others at a mountain cabin.]
For the first few days we try to provide some straw to temper the hard
earth, but as the days go by, and we get used to roughing it, we sleep
soundly with nothing but a blanket and oil cloth between us and mother
earth. We pin back the tent door, and with the night wind fanning our
faces, close our eyes to the stars and flickering campfire. Some who
have never camped are afraid of bugs, snakes and wild animals. We have
spent our vacation month this way for twenty-five years, have camped in
most of the counties of Minnesota, and in Iowa, the Dakotas and Montana,
and have never had but one unpleasant experience of the kind. That was
one night when we pitched our tent after dark on the bottoms below Fort
Snelling, and did not know till we had laid ourselves down that a colony
of ants had pre-empted the spot before us. We did not get much sleep,
but we had the comfort of feeling that they were nice, clean,
self-respecting, self-defending ants. Would that our experience in
hotels had been equally fortunate!
[Illustration: A young Douglas fir.]
Leaving the western boundary of the forests of Minnesota near Glencoe
and going across the prairie and plains to the mountain forests of
Montana is an interesting experience. The only trees in Western
Minnesota and the Dakotas are those found along the lakes and water
courses, and west of the Missouri the trees and shrubby growth, even in
such places, becomes very scanty or entirely disappears, giving a weird
appearance to one who has always associated water and trees together in
his mind. As we draw near the Montana line, trees begin to appear on the
tops of the buttes and high bluffs on the distant horizon. Traveling on
the railroad I have wondered what they were. With our own private car we
satisfied our curiosity by zig-zagging our way up to a camping place
among them, the first night they came in sight. Of course they were our
old friends, the Ponderosa pine, whose name will always be associated
with our grand old man from Nebraska. They ought to be renamed the
Harrison pine. How they endure the drouth and cold in a soil so poor
that grass withers and dies out, and how they stand erect where every
other living thing bows to the bleak winds and blizzards of the
prairies, is one of the mysteries of plant life. What a splendid bonfire
we made of their boughs that night, flaring as a beacon out over the
ocean of prairie about us!
The day before we had passed by hundreds of clumps of a beautiful blue
lupine with finely cut foliage and profusion of color that rivaled any
flower of its shade I have seen in cultivation. On the way home we
gathered a handful of seed from which we shall hope to grow some plants
at home. We tried to dig a few to transplant, but their roots seemed to
go down, down, till with my short handled shovel, I got discouraged. The
herbage of the plains has learned to dig deep for water.
[Illustration: A camp by the Red River of the North, Mrs. Wedge sitting
by a giant cottonwood. Our 16 lb. tent at the right.]
Leaving the Yellowstone at Big Timber and striking across the plains to
the Snowy Mountains, we found the Ponderosa pine, and soon the Flexilis
pine, wherever a rocky ridge is lifted above the level of the plains, so
that these trees were in sight a large share of the time, even far away
from large rivers and groups of mountains. If a homestead anywhere in
that state is not cozily protected by bright colored evergreens it is
not because there is any difficulty in getting trees that will thrive in
that soil.
[Illustration: A young Ponderosa pine.]
The Snowy Mountains are in the center of Montana, quite unsheltered from
the other ranges of the Rockies. It is the meeting place of the flora of
the mountains and the plains. I think it is the eastern limit of that
peerless tree of the Rockies, the Douglas fir. I gave my impressions of
this tree to the society a year or two ago. I am still more in love with
it from what I again saw last August in its native Snowy Mountains, and
from the bright, sturdy little trees that have been growing at my home
in Minnesota for two years past, giving assurance of their willingness
to be transplanted to our moister air. It is the coming evergreen for
the prairies, and it will be a happy day for all who plant an evergreen
west of the natural timber when the Douglas fir has displaced the trees
that come from the cool, moist forests of Europe and the sheltered woods
of our own lake regions.
I think the Snowys are also about the eastern limit of the little
broad-leaved evergreen called the Oregon grape, that I believe every one
in Minnesota can grow for Christmas greens. From my first acquaintance
with it I got the impression that it required shade, but this time I
noted that it was growing all over the bare ridges that radiate from the
mountains, wherever it was possible for a little snow to lodge. We can
substitute a light sprinkling of straw when snow is lacking. It
certainly does not require shade.
The Mariposa lily is a unique flower that springs up in open places and
produces a white blossom about the size and shape of the wild morning
glory. It grows about a foot high and produces one or two flowers on
each stalk. It must have a long period of bloom for ripe seed pods, and
blooming plants were common at the same time in August.
The Canadian buffalo berry and a dwarfish birch are two mountain plants
of no small ornamental value for the plains. They may not endure the
moister air near the Mississippi, but there we have already many useful
natives, like the black haw and thorn apple, that are as yet almost
unnoticed.
[Illustration: Group of Douglas fir on the mountainside. Thirteen trees
in a space of only two square rods. None less than two feet in
diameter.]
One of the principal charms about the great country traversed by the
Yellowstone Trail is its newness and freshness. Millions of acres just
as the Indian, the buffalo and the coyote left them--broad stretches as
far as eye can reach without a sign of human habitation. But this is
fast passing away. Out among the sage brush in land as poor and
desert-like as could well be imagined, homes are being mapped out by the
thousand, and crops of grain were grown this year that rival the best
yield in any of the older states. The time is close at hand when the
main highways will be built up and made so hard and smooth that two
hundred and fifty miles will be made as easily as our average runs of
one hundred and fifty. The way will be safer and speedier, but it will
lack some of the spice of adventure, and it will be harder to realize
the simple life about the camp fire that now seems to harmonize so well
with the wildness of the plains.
The Minnesota Orchard.
A QUESTION AND ANSWER EXERCISE LED BY J. P. ANDREWS, NURSERYMAN,
FARIBAULT.
Mr. Andrews: This is a very important subject. We have been talking
about it a long, long time, and we have advanced a little, ought to have
advanced quite a little more, and this exercise is along the road of
improvement in that line. Anything that is bothering us, anything that
is in the way of our success with the apple orchard, ask what questions
you can, not that I can answer them all, but there are some good
orchardists around here that I know I can call on, in case I can not. In
this exercise the questions come first, and it is for you fellows to
start the ball rolling.
There is one thing we are lacking, that is winter apples. We have enough
of fall apples, seems to me, so we can get along very well, but we are
looking for something a little better quality than Malinda and that will
keep somewhere near as long. All these new seedlings that have been
introduced in the past and big premiums offered, they seem to have
stopped right there and we are not getting the benefit of but one or
two. If they had been adapted to the north, as they should have been, we
undoubtedly could have had several good varieties of apples that we
could recommend for planting a considerable ways north of here that are
good. As it is now we are really looking in this southern part of the
country for keeping apples.
I should think if we could get these new varieties of seedlings that are
keeping well introduced into the Fruit-Breeding Farm and let Supt.
Haralson handle them under number and send them off to the north of us a
good ways, we could have them tested. Those that have exhibited these
new seedlings and got premiums for them, they ought to be a little more
free to get them in some shape so that they will be tested and we will
learn their worth. They have their premiums, they got those simply
because they are good keepers. Well, now, that isn't anything in their
favor for Minnesota planting, not very much. Of course, good keepers,
that is a good thing, good quality is another thing, but the first thing
is hardiness, and the people who have been drawing these premiums have
been seemingly backward in getting them in shape to test. They are
afraid to put them out for fear somebody might steal them, but if Mr.
Haralson had the handling of them under number nobody could steal them.
You have got title to them and control them just as well as when you
keep them right on your place where they haven't a chance to show
whether they are hardy or not. There is the weak point in this seedling
business for Minnesota, I think.
But the apple orchards of Minnesota, if you are not all getting the good
results that you want from your orchards, if you are not all getting a
full crop, what is the reason? The last year and this year we have
failed of getting a good crop of apples or almost any crop, whereas
before, ever since the old orchard was planted in 1878, why, we have
regarded the apple crop as really a very much surer crop than almost any
of the farm crops, but the last two years we have failed to get a crop.
I attribute the poor crop a year ago to such an excessive crop as we had
the year before that. Two years ago everything was loaded, breaking
down, because we didn't thin them as we ought to, and we could hardly
expect very much the next year. This last year, you know we had frosts
quite frequent up to about the 10th of June, I think that was the reason
we had such a failure this year. Our own orchard is on ground that is
about 225 feet above Faribault, so we have got air drainage, and we
would expect to escape frosts on that account and have as good a crop as
anybody else would in that neighborhood. But that wasn't the case. We
didn't get any apples, and yet during county fair why there was quite a
nice show of nice fruit that they had picked up a few here and a few
there, where really their location seems to me could not have been any
better than ours. I don't know what the reason was, but it was very
patchy, and I didn't dream we would have such a good show of fruit as we
did, and I couldn't tell where it came from.
Mr. Philips: I think when the trees are loaded so heavily, if you would
pick off a third of them you would get more out of the balance of the
crop.
Mr. Andrews: Yes, I think that. The question is, if we pick off a third
of a heavy crop, if we have a heavy crop, if that wouldn't help the next
crop. It surely would.
Mr. Philips: Help that crop, too, in the price.
Mr. Andrews: Yes, sir, it will pay that year besides paying the next
year, too; it will pay double.
Mr. Philips: It is a good plan any year.
Mr. Andrews: Yes, we ought to do that, we are lacking in that work of
thinning the fruit. We sometimes have a late frost that will take off
part of them, thin them that way, or wind, or something of that kind,
and we rather depend on that feature of it. Then in that time of the
year we are very busy and liable to have some things neglected, and that
seems to be the one that is almost always neglected.
Mr. Brackett: Would you advocate the extensive planting of apples in
this climate?
Mr. Andrews: I would not. At the same time you take it in the southern
part of the state I presume they can grow them there. They can grow
there many things we can't think of growing in this part of the state
unless it be along Lake Minnetonka.
Mr. Older: Where you have an orchard ten years old, is it best to seed
it down or still continue to cultivate it? In the west they have to
cultivate. What is the best in this country? I know one man says it is
best to keep on cultivating while it is growing, and another man says
that that will kill the trees. I want to know which is the best.
Mr. Andrews: I think cultivation is the thing that ought to be done
until the trees get well to bearing, anyway, and then it furnishes
nitrogen to the soil to seed it down to clover. If we don't do that we
are very liable to neglect that element in the soil. The better way to
my mind is to cultivate for eight or ten years, and then I do think it
is all right perhaps, for farmers, I mean, who will neglect the
cultivation if they depend on it. That is, if they make up their minds
it is better to cultivate than it is to seed down, their trees are more
apt to be neglected. During the busy part of the season they won't
cultivate as constantly as they ought to. If they would do that I have
not much doubt but what cultivation would be all right right along, if
you will furnish that nitrogen that ought to be in the soil for the
protection of the crop. Clover is the easiest way to get that, and the
trees will be more sure to have the benefit of that if you sow to clover
and grow a crop of hay and turn it under, possibly let it be into clover
two years, but turn that under and cultivate for two or three years and
then put into clover again. I think that would be preferable for the
farmer, for the farmer especially, than it would to undertake to either
cultivate all the time or seed down all the time.
I don't believe it is a good thing to seed down where there are young
trees growing and while the orchard is young. If you will plant your
potatoes in that orchard between the rows and cultivate it, you will do
the cultivating. I haven't got very much faith in the average farmer--I
don't mean you horticulturists--but the average farmer. If he will plant
trees and you advise him to cultivate them while they are young, they
will be neglected after the first year or so. He may while the fever is
on, he may cultivate them one year and the next year about half
cultivate them, and the following years they will grow up to grass and
weeds. Whereas, if he plants potatoes he gets just the right cultivation
for the trees if he cultivates the ground enough to get a good crop of
potatoes. Then in the fall when he digs the potatoes he loosens up the
ground, and it takes up the moisture, and after the fall rains they go
into winter quarters in good shape. It seems to me that is as near right
as I could recommend.
Mr. Hansen: What distance apart ought those apple trees to be?
Mr. Older: Another question along that line. Suppose we concede that a
young orchard ought to be cultivated until it gets eight or ten years
old, then which is the best when you seed it to clover to cut the clover
and throw the hay around the trees for a mulch or just take the hay
away, or what?
Mr. Andrews: I think it would be better to put the hay around the trees
for mulching. If the hay is used and the barnyard manure is taken to the
orchard that would fill the bill pretty well.
Now, the distance apart? Grown trees really need about thirty feet apart
each way. If you run the rows north and south and put them thirty feet
apart, and sixteen feet or a rod apart in the row, with a view to
taking out every other tree, you might have to go under bonds to take
them out when they are needed to come out (laughter), or else you would
leave them there until you hurt your other trees. If you would take out
every other tree when they get to interfering after several years, eight
or ten years, you can grow a double crop of apples in your orchard, but
if you do the way you probably will do, leave them right there until
they get too close, you will--
Mr. Hansen: Spoil all of them?
Mr. Andrews: Yes. Then you better put them out a little farther apart,
and, as I said, two rods apart each way I don't believe is too far. Our
old orchard that we put out in 1877 is just on its last legs now. At
that time, you know, we didn't know anything about what varieties to
plant, we didn't have as many as we have now. The old orchard only had
the Duchess and Wealthy for standards, and half of the orchard was into
crabs, because I thought at that time crabs was the only thing that
would be any ways sure of staying by us. Well, those trees are about
through their usefulness now, the standards. They have borne well until
the last two years, generally loaded, and they were put out at that time
fourteen feet apart each way, breaking joints so that they didn't come
directly opposite. And when they got to be twelve or fifteen years old,
it was difficult to get through there with a team or with any
satisfaction, it was rubbing the limbs too much. Then the next orchard
we put out on the farm was twenty-four feet by fifteen or sixteen feet
in the row, the rows twenty-four feet apart. I wish they were a little
farther apart, although that hasn't bothered very much about getting
through between the rows, but it shows that a tree that is any ways
spreading in its habit really needs about two rods each way. Are there
any other questions?
Mr. Brackett: Do you think a Wealthy orchard under thorough cultivation,
making a rank growth, do you think it is as hardy as an orchard seeded
down, and do you think that a Wealthy orchard would blight more than
other kinds?
Mr. Andrews: If the ground is rich and under thorough cultivation it
does tend to cause fire blight. I haven't followed it on anything but
young orchards. When they have commenced to bear then we have generally
seeded down and turned in the hogs, and we have rather neglected the
cultivation after that. I do think that if we had cultivated a little
more often it would have been better.
Mr. Older: What do you consider the best to seed down with, clover or
alfalfa?
Mr. Andrews: I have never tried alfalfa. I don't see why it wouldn't be
all right, if you don't try to keep it too long. It would furnish the
nitrogen all right.
Mr. Older: Which kind of seeding down would you prefer, what kind of
clover? Would you want the Alsike clover or sweet clover for an apple
orchard?
Mr. Andrews: I haven't tried anything but the medium clover. The sweet
clover I think would be rather a rank grower.
Mr. Older: If you are going to mow it, why not mow the sweet clover same
as the other?
Mr. Andrews: That would be all right. If you were going to use it for
mulching, I think it would be the thing, because it would be better for
mulching than for feeding.
Mr. Ludlow: I would like to give a little experience in putting in
alfalfa in an orchard. We got the seed, the Grimm alfalfa, I think, is
the name of it, and I got a good stand. We got seed from it the first
year, and I sowed more, but there seemed to be something about the
alfalfa that would draw the pocket-gophers from two miles around. The
second year I think I had nineteen of my thriftiest apple tree roots all
eaten off. I didn't know there was one in the field because there were
no mounds at all. In the spring I found where they were at work, and I
catch on an average of twenty pocket-gophers out of that mound every
year. Talk about cultivating, the pocket-gophers will cultivate it, and
the alfalfa is pretty much all eaten out and it has come into bluegrass.
Mr. Harrison: That question as to alfalfa; the experience is always that
the roots go too deep so it hurts the apple trees. Red clover seems to
be the clover that is favored by most people.
Mr. Andrews: Mr. Ludlow spoke of the pocket-gopher favoring alfalfa. We
have a patch of alfalfa right near the apple trees. I don't remember
that I have noticed any pocket-gophers work in that piece at all. On the
opposite side of the road, where it is clover and timothy, why, they
work there tremendously. I know Brother Ludlow was telling us a little
while ago at dinner about pocket-gophers working on his place, and I
wouldn't wonder if he is blessed with an extra colony of them there.
Mr. Ludlow: I try to catch them all out every year. I catch out on an
average about eighteen to twenty every fall, so as to catch them before
they increase early in the spring. It seems as though they came from a
distance. I know one came into my garden this year. I didn't know there
was a gopher within a mile, and in one night he made four mounds in the
middle of my strawberry bed.
Mrs. Glenzke: Did you ever try poisoning them?
Mr. Ludlow: No, I never did. I am most successful in catching them in a
trap.
Mr. Brackett: Have you got any pocket-gophers that do not make mounds?
Do you understand that?
Mr. Ludlow: No, sir, I don't understand that, but when they came in and
killed the nineteen trees in the fall I hadn't seen a mound there. In
the spring I found where they were at work, and then I went after them.
City "Foresters" and Municipal Forests.
PROF. E. G. CHENEY, UNIVERSITY FARM, ST. PAUL.
Several cities in the state have appointed "city foresters." This is a
step in the right direction, if it is a precursor to the establishment
of municipal forests for these men to manage; otherwise it is a misnomer
and can only be misleading to the people. The city governments, in an
endeavor to create a complete park organization, have so far adopted
this title from European practice without much regard to the duties of
the officer. A forester handles trees in mass formations,--sometimes for
timber production, sometimes for the protection of water-sheds,
sometimes for aesthetic effect or park purposes,--but always in the
mass.
The handling of shade trees such as we have in our city streets is the
work of an arborist. The planting of large ornamental trees, the pruning
of the individual for formal effect, the filling of cavities and the
bracing of weak parts, are no part of a forester's work; nor do they
necessarily fall within his knowledge. An expert should undoubtedly be
in charge of the work, but an expert arborist, not a forester. The title
is, therefore, when combined with the present duties, unfortunate,
because it gives the people--still struggling with a hazy conception of
forestry--a wrong idea of the true character of the real forester's
work.
Two very obvious ways of avoiding the difficulty present
themselves,--either to change the title or to change the duties. The
former would probably be much easier of accomplishment, but the latter
is without question the course which the city ought to pursue. Since the
cities have adopted the title of "city forester," and so obtained a more
complete park organization on paper, why not make the improvement real
by adopting the rest of the European practice and creating city forests
for these new officers to handle? That would indeed be a real
improvement, and one without which any city park system is lamentably
lame.
Nearly every large city has some large park within in limits kept in a
more or less natural condition as a recreation ground for its people,
thus recognizing its influence for health and social betterment. How
much it would increase this influence if there were a considerable tract
of forest within easy reach of the city! How much better approach it
would make to the city than the unsightly waste places so often
encountered! How much better setting it would make for the suburban
residence sections!
Such a municipal forest is not a Utopian dream, but a practical thing
well within the reach of almost any city. The law passed by the last
legislature makes it possible for a city to purchase land for such a
purpose either within or without the city limits. The activities of the
present park boards show that money can be obtained to carry out such
plans. The establishment of the forests would be less expensive than is
generally imagined. The amount of money expended on the Gateway Park in
Minneapolis would buy hundreds of acres of city land within fifteen
miles of the city. With the aid of a municipal nursery, such as every
park system should have, this land could be planted up at a total
expense, for stock and labor, of six to eight dollars per acre. The cost
of maintenance would be limited to the patrol of the tract to prevent
fire and trespass. Of course, there might be no money revenue from the
forest for many years, but in a comparatively short time it would begin
to fulfill its purpose as a park, and once the timber is mature, there
would be a continuous net annual income of from five to ten dollars per
acre. Suppose that the city had 10,000 acres of such forest paying a net
annual revenue--in addition to its full services as a park--of from
$50,000 to $100,000 toward the maintenance of the other city parks, and
it must be remembered that for every dollar of net revenue the forest
would pay an additional dollar or more in wages to swell the coffers of
the city;--certainly that would be something very much better than
anything that the city has at present.
St. Paul, with the bottom lands and cliffs on either side of the river
between Hastings and Minneapolis, could make a beautiful and profitable
park of what now threatens to develop into a monumental waste. Duluth
could make a forest which would be unsurpassed in beauty and usefulness
by any in the world out of the brushy, unoccupied, rock-bound hills as
far west as Thompson. Mankato has a glorious chance for the same work
along the Minnesota valley. Virginia and Hibbing could do nothing better
than make such use of the rocky, mine-scarred hills in their vicinity.
And so opportunity might be cited for almost any city in the state. For
the municipal forest need not be confined to the big cities. In fact, in
some respects the smaller city has an advantage over the larger place.
Suitable land can usually be obtained near the city at a much more
reasonable price and the revenue obtained bear a much larger ratio to
the total expenses of the town. There are some small towns in Germany
where the entire running expenses are paid by the revenues of the town
forest, and one or two where the forest not only pays all of the taxes
but also pays a cash pension to a number of the older inhabitants.
Certainly our towns, looking forward to an endless and progressive
existence, cannot afford to neglect this opportunity to develop a useful
park, to provide a source of cheap wood and lumber for future
generations and a substantial revenue for the city.
Expert advice need not be employed until the size and revenue of the
forest warrants it, for the State Forest Service stands ready to
help--by the selection of land, the formulation of plans, and
consultation--any city that is wise enough to take advantage of this
law.
The "city forester" can then be a forester indeed, and one of the good
points of the European city government will have been adopted in fact as
well as in name.
The Salome Apple.
H. W. HARRISON, ROCHESTER, MINN. SO. MINN. HORT. SOCIETY.
The Salome apple is named after one of the faithful Bible characters,
Salome, who was associated with Martha and Mary while our Savior was on
earth and was also a witness of his crucifixion. Thus the name alone
commands respect. It was originated in eastern Canada, and it was
introduced here some twenty-five years ago by the Princeton Nursery
Company of Illinois and has proven to be very hardy on different soils
and locations. It is grown in the southern tier of counties of Minnesota
and as far north as New Ulm.
Like all good things it has had a hard fight to overcome its opponents.
At the time it was introduced here there were Ben Davis and other tender
varieties delivered in its place in certain localities. These not being
hardy of course gave the Salome a black eye. Nevertheless it is an apple
that should be grown extensively because of its hardiness, its clean
appearance and upright growth, spreading just enough to admit air and
light.
Its fruit will keep in ordinary cellars until May or June. It is medium
in size and color, red streaked with green and yellow. Flesh is yellow
and sub acid. Like all winter varieties it is slow to come in bearing
but yielding heavily when it does bear, whenever other varieties do. Let
us not lose sight of this excellent fruit in our desire to produce
something new and original.
How May the State University and the Horticultural Society Best
Co-Operate?
GEO. E. VINCENT, PRESIDENT MINN. STATE UNIVERSITY, MINNEAPOLIS.
Now, so far as I can understand, the only excuse for interpolating me in
a program of this kind is that you are giving so much attention to
technical subjects, you are working so hard, you need from time to time
relief in order that you may not suffer from brain fever or any of the
ailments of overstudy. I am confident from this point of view anything I
may have to say will meet that need completely.
The relationship between this society and the university strikes me as
typically American. There are two ways of doing things--leaving public
undertakings entirely to private initiative, to individuals, to
voluntary groups; that is one plan. There is another plan which consists
in putting everything into the hands of the state. Constituted authority
takes charge of the whole life of the citizen's, all the activities and
enterprise are made public, state affairs.
Those are the two extremes. The dangers of those two methods are very
obvious. Many enterprises left to private initiative will be done in
haphazard fashion; there will be duplication and waste. When the state
undertakes all these enterprises it changes the whole aspect. Public
management may make for a certain efficiency, but it sooner or later
undermines the initiative, the feeling of responsibility of the
individual. We are a practical people, we compromise and combine the
various methods of doing things. It is the typical American way to
combine private initiative with a certain measure of state co-operation.
The work for horticulture in the state of Minnesota has been developed
under exactly these conditions.
If I remember rightly, this society was organized in 1867. It has
assumed a definite leadership in the development of horticulture in the
state of Minnesota; the university has gradually been adapting itself,
so to speak, to the work of this society. The society and the university
have officially been in close relationship. I believe that in the early
days the secretary was at the same time a university officer and for the
last twenty-five years, I am told that at least one expert of the
university staff has always been a member of the executive board of this
society. This has made a personal bond.
Then the society has done a great many important things. You have stood
by at times when people were not perfectly certain about the importance
of various kinds of scientific work. You have been steadfast. Sometimes
it required courage to stand for the scientific ideals which the
university was attempting to carry out in important work that had a
bearing upon horticulture.
And you have, of course, the chief responsibility and distinction of
having seen to it that our fruit-breeding farm should be established. I
believe you were also kind enough to pick out the site, although none of
you were personally interested in the particular real estate ultimately
purchased.
So that we feel--we of the university feel--that the work of
horticulture in this state is distinctly a co-operative undertaking, and
that the leadership and enterprise and vision of this society have been
the chief things that developed horticulture in Minnesota to the point
it has reached. But we do believe that the co-operation of your
university is an important and, we hope, from now on will be an
increasingly important thing. Certain work is going on constantly at the
University in the various departments, and that work is of distinct
benefit because you recognize it.
We had a good illustration a few minutes ago. The professor of soils was
having his brains picked, as he had a perfect right to have, by you. You
were asking him questions, and I noticed once or twice he said he didn't
know. That must have inspired confidence in him; I have a good deal of
faith in people who don't know it all. That shows two things--they have
a sense of humor, and they expect to find out. There is something
pathetic in a person who knows it all; it is a case of arrested
development.
So out of the department of soils you expect to get the result of
careful and scientific study of the nature of soils. From the department
of plant pathology you expect to learn about the various forms of plant
diseases and the way in which these may be eliminated. From the
department of entomology you expect to learn something about the
troublesome insects, which are so universal an annoyance. I think they
simply exist to test our character, to see whether we have courage to go
on, bugs or no bugs. We do the best we can to become familiar with the
habits of these nefarious creatures and let you know what we know. So I
might call attention to one or two other departments--but you know how
much is being accomplished. You get regular reports. You have a
committee to visit and investigate our fruit-breeding farms. If I may
judge from the reports which your committee makes--I don't know whether
it is because it is one of your children and you are indulgent--your
committee seems to think good things are being done and distinct
progress recorded at the fruit-breeding farm. With your support and
confidence we are enlarging the work there. It seems we should have more
land in the early future, and we may ask for your co-operation in
convincing the powers that be that such increase of territory is
necessary.
How many members have you? 3,407 members, I believe. Perhaps you have
more since that number was given this morning. At any rate, there is a
good number, and when you think of all the wisdom and all the experience
that those 3,407 people have, it seems a great pity not to get it
organized in better form. Come and pick some more brains while these
brains are still available and organize this great mass of knowledge.
Here is the next problem. Who are the people that are going to take your
places? Who is to have a gold watch given him fifty years from now--or
given to her fifty years from now? This thing is to go on, and how? It
goes on by discovering in Minnesota the horticulturally-minded people in
the state; you must always be on the lookout for people who are to do
the big things. The great European governments are considering how they
are going to keep their armies recruited, how the next generation is to
be brought in and organized. That is the same problem in every nation.
It is extremely necessary to put out dragnets for specialists. There are
probably thousands of men in Minnesota who are horticulturists, they are
dormant horticulturists, and your business and ours is to try to
discover them. So the problem with us is how to get out the dragnet.
You know there is a great biological principle that is illustrated in
the lower types of animals. Millions of fish eggs are produced for every
hundred that actually fertilize and amount to anything. So when you are
looking for results in a great subject, when you are trying to discover
people, when you are putting out a dragnet, you have to try a very large
number with the hope of discovering the relatively few who really show
the divine spark, who are really the men that you are looking for.
It is a very interesting thing when you come to think about it, all the
while we are looking for special ability in modern activities we do it
by fashion. Fashion is something that victimizes the ladies. They do not
care for fashion itself, it is thrust upon them from the outside. Most
women conform to fashion on the principle of protective coloring; they
do not care for it themselves, but they do not want to be conspicuous by
not conforming; so they protect themselves that way.
I consider fashion is a beneficial thing when you look at it the right
way. By fashion all kinds of new things are started throughout the
country, and you discover certain people who have a special aptitude. It
becomes the fashion to do various things, and in many cases people
become interested and develop their own special tastes and faculties.
I am tremendously interested just now in rural education. We want a
rural school that will be attractive. We are interested in getting
houses for the teachers to be built right alongside the school house.
Then there will be the garden in connection with the house, the flower
garden and the tree planting. Some of us are looking forward to the time
when the rural school will be the most charming spot in all the
countryside, not a place from which the teacher escapes at the earliest
possible moment on Friday to return reluctantly on Monday morning, but a
place where she wants to remain, where the rural school will be the
center of the community and community life. It will be an attractive
place for the best kind of teacher. When we can get to that point we
shall be able to establish in the rural regions an institution that will
be a vital part of the whole community and a thing of joy and of beauty.
That gospel might be extended to the tree planting on the farmstead. You
know what the state art society had been doing. There is another
dragnet. You have seen the Minnesota Art Journal, which is dealing with
the problems in tree planting of the farm, planting around the farm
house; That in connection with the modern farm house that has been
suggested, these things have a very important bearing upon problems in
which both you and the university are interested.
And then we can look forward to the time when you will have your
permanent home, if not on the farm grounds themselves at least near
there, where we could co-operate and use the same building, so that
while it would be yours you will feel that it is being utilized
throughout the year in such a way that the expenditure of the money
would be justified.
There is a fine vista ahead of us, a vista of the things to be,
accomplished by means of this American combination of private initiative
and enterprise and idealism and the support of the state for certain
details of work which can be best accomplished in that way.
The Shelter Belt for Orchard and Home Grounds.
A DISCUSSION LED BY JOHN W. MAHER, NURSERYMAN, DEVILS LAKE, N. DAK.
Mr. Maher: The subject this morning is to be on "Shelter-Belt for
Orchard and Home Grounds." I am satisfied, provided the "Home Grounds"
include the whole farm.
The entire farm needs shelter, particularly from the hot, drying winds
and other destructive winds that uncover and cut down crops in
springtime and carry away the fertile top soil; and the summer winds,
hot winds, of course, that eat up the moisture; and those destructive
winds that sometimes harvest our barley and other crops before they are
cut. We need protection from all these winds, and in this latitude these
winds blow uniformly from the southwest. So every farm should be
protected from them by a substantial shelter-belt on the west and south
sides, which can also be the farm wood-lot.
[Illustration: Apple tree windbreak at Devil's Lake Nursery. Hibernal in
the foreground. Patten's Greening in the distance.]
There is another phase of protection that has been emphasized this year
very much, and that is, protection against summer frosts and late spring
frosts. A gentleman living at McIntosh, near Crookston, in this state,
told me that corn matured up there wherever it was protected from the
north wind. At the Devils Lake Nursery we had a 400-bushel per acre
potato crop protected only by the blocks of nursery stock, whereas the
yield in the vicinity was from nothing to fifty bushels per acre--and I
believe if Mr. Andrews will inquire into the location of the good apple
crops about Faribault he will probably find they were saved by similar
shelter protection, or the natural lay of the land.
Mr. Kellogg: What is your best windbreak?
Mr. Maher: The evergreen is the best windbreak for the reason that it
gives more shelter, retains its leaves in the winter and fewer rows of
trees will make a good shelter-belt. The variety--that is, west of the
timber line in Minnesota--I should say the best would be the Ponderosa
pine, or bull pine, after that the jack pine may be, or else the
Colorado blue spruce and the Black Hills spruce.
Mr. Kellogg: Colorado spruce is too expensive to set out as a windbreak.
Mr. Maher: Well, the green varieties. I don't see why they should be any
more costly than the others. Of course, they are held at a higher price,
but they make a good windbreak because they are easily grown and are
perfectly hardy to stand the dry atmosphere and the hot winds.
[Illustration: American Elm windbreak at Devil's Lake, N.D.]
Mr. Kellogg: What is the reason there are so few of them really blue?
Mr. Maher: I don't know. There is only a small percentage, probably 15
per cent., that are blue. I think the dryer atmosphere produces more
blue than the more humid atmosphere. We have more blues in North Dakota
than you will find even here. I believe it is the dry atmosphere and the
intense sunlight that causes the blue, because the red cedar in North
Dakota, the native red cedar, is really a silver cedar and has a blue
sheen, or rather, a silver sheen.
A Member: How large do the trees have to be to be of benefit?
Mr. Maher: I have a friend out of Devils Lake who had 160 acres of flax
destroyed by a spring wind that hits the earth at such an angle. It
picked up the earth and cut the flax off, by reason of the clay hitting
the little plant, except about a hundred foot strip along the west
side, and that was protected by a growth of grass and weeds not to
exceed a foot in height. So it depends on the kind of wind a great deal
and the angle at which the wind strikes the grounds.
Now, the distance that a windbreak will protect a field has been studied
out and measured and demonstrated by a great number of men. Mr. McGee,
at Indian Head, gave a great deal of thought and study to the windbreak
proposition and measured the distances that the shelter-belt would
shelter the crops, and he came to the conclusion that for every foot in
height there would be an absolute protection for a rod in distance, and
outside of that actual protection there would be a long distance that
would be partially protected. The same study was made by a gentleman in
Iowa--I can't call his name just now--and he came to practically the
same conclusion as to the distance that the protection reached in
proportion to the height of shelter-belt.
[Illustration: Mountain Ash windbreak at Devil's Lake, N.D.]
A Member: I want a shelter mostly for apple trees. Would it be five or
six years before I receive any benefit, or seven or eight years?
Mr. Maher: Plant your protection when you plant your apple trees, and
you will have your protection sooner than you have your apples. If you
are going to do that, don't put the shelter too close to the apple
trees, which is a very common fault.
A Member: How much distance would you allow for the roots?
[Illustration: White Willow windbreak at Devil's Lake, N.D.]
Mr. Maher: I should say not less than 100 feet, anyway.
Mr. Moyer: I live in southwestern Minnesota, about thirty miles from the
South Dakota line, and I think it is a mistake to recommend the white
spruce for planting out there. The white spruce naturally grows towards
the North Pole, it extends even up to the Arctic Circle. Twenty-four
years ago I purchased a dozen white spruce from Robert Douglas, who was
then alive, and planted them northwest of my house. About five years ago
they began to fail, and now only two or three are alive, and they are
covered with dead branches. I feel sure that the white spruce have been
injured by the hot winds that come across the prairies from the
southwest. I don't think they can stand it. There is a variety of white
spruce that grows in the Black Hills, which I think will be decided to
be a different species when botanists come to study it, that will stand
our prairies. Another tree that we like is the Colorado blue spruce; it
is hardy and grows excellently. About twenty-three years ago, when
Professor Verner was at the head of the Forestry Department at
Washington he sent me 8,000 evergreens, and I set them out. They were
bull pine and the Scotch pine and Austrian pine. I was over to look at
them the other day. The Scotch pine, which have been set now
twenty-three years, are over thirty feet high, the Austrian pine about
two-thirds as high, and the bull pine, Ponderosa, is about as high as
the Austrian pine. He told me to set these trees about two feet apart
each way. I thought that too thick, so I set them in rows six feet apart
and about two or three feet apart in the rows. He wished me to alternate
the planting with deciduous trees. He recommended that I add a few
deciduous trees, green ash and box elder and a few elm, and I set them
as far as they would go, but they didn't go very far in setting the
8,000 evergreens. Then I thought it would be a good idea to use the
wolfberry that grows wild on the prairies. I set them alternately with
some of the evergreens, but as they have a very liberal root system it
was hard to get them out. The finest tree in the plantation is the
Austrian pine, and if it continues to do as well as it has the last
three or four years I think the Austrian pine is going to be a very
valuable pine for shelter-belt.
Mr. Kellogg: Have you tested the Douglas spruce?
Mr. Moyer: Not to a great extent. It does well in some localities.
[Illustration: Soft, or Silver, Maple windbreak--to be succeeded by
permanent windbreak of Bur Oak--shown growing between man and boy.]
Mr. Maher: I think the real test is to get them as near native to your
place as you can. The area over which the white spruce grows is greater
than that of any other spruce, possibly greater than any other
evergreen, especially through the northern latitudes. I don't think
there is any question about the Black Hills spruce being the white
spruce that was left there growing when the other timber was destroyed,
if we can adopt that theory. The white spruce from seed from the
Northwest, from the British Columbia countries especially, is perfectly
hardy with you. It is perfectly hardy with us at Devils Lake, which is a
very much more severe test, whereas the white spruce from its southern
limits may not be hardy even here. I think the Black Hills spruce is
perfectly hardy. The distance north and south relatively is not so
important with reference to growing trees as to get them from too far in
the humid district. The white spruce that I would be afraid of would be
the seed from New England and from the farther east limits of its
growth, where the conditions are so much more humid.
Mr. Kellogg: Do you find any trouble with too much protection for
orchards?
Mr. Maher: Where the protection is too close to the orchards I think it
is very bad. It destroys the air drainage--
Mr. Kellogg: That is why they are liable to blight.
Mr. Maher: And they blight also. The air drainage is interfered with,
and you get blight, and you also smother the orchard. I don't know but
what the apple and the Americana plum are about as hardy trees as we
have anywhere. I don't make any attempt to protect them specially except
from the south and west. I don't put any northern windbreak around any
orchards I set out. Of course, we may lose a crop with a spring frost
all right when northern protection might save it, but with us up in our
country if we have a good spring frost it is usually heavy enough to
catch them anyway.
[Illustration: Norway Poplar windbreak at Devil's Lake, N.D.]
I have a question here: How long should a shelter-belt be cultivated?
Now, that is a point on which I think too much emphasis is placed. If
you set out your trees as Judge Moyer did his, close together, inside of
a few years they will take care of themselves, they will form forest
conditions very quickly, and cultivation is not necessary any more. Of
course, if you set your trees a great distance apart where there is
nothing to protect them from the burning sun, and the ground bakes and
dries, then you must cultivate or mulch, but I think cultivation much
better than mulching.
Another question: How many rows of trees make a good windbreak? My idea
is that it takes twenty rows to make a good one--of deciduous trees, of
course. Two or three rows of evergreens, planted not further than eight
feet apart and with joints broken, probably makes as good a windbreak as
the twenty rows of deciduous trees and take less ground.
Mr. Horton: Wouldn't you have an open space in those trees? You wouldn't
put them all together?
Mr. Maher: If I had twenty rows of trees I would put them together.
Mr. Horton: Would you have an open space outside of those twenty trees
for the snow to lodge in?
[Illustration: Ponderosa Pine windbreak--at Devil's Lake (N.D.)
Nursery.]
Mr. Maher: I have never known the snow to do any hurt in a twenty row
windbreak. It distributes itself in there, and the more comes the
better.
Mr. Horton: I have seen them broken badly with the snow.
Mr. Maher: That would be probably the poplars and trees that break
easily.
Mr. Horton: On my farm I put out a row of twenty trees. Outside of that
I left a space on the north and west six rods wide, and I put out some
golden willows outside of that, and that made an open space for the snow
to fall in.
Mr. Maher: That is a very good plan, to have a row of willows back of
your shelter-belt, especially around the home and orchard and barn
ground, to hold the snow back.
Mr. Moyer: I found that the snow drifted into my evergreens but didn't
break them. I used lilac bushes; I planted a long row. Lilacs are very
common, and I got enough to plant a long row. They are now ten feet
high, and it is a magnificent sight in summer.
Mr. Maher: I know the lilac is a splendid thing, better than the golden
willow, because they last longer. They are more hardy, and they make a
better protection, and as far as wood goes from the golden willows you
get nothing except branches unless it is the white willow.
I have another question here: What would you plant around the garden?
For a windbreak around the garden orchard, that should have an inside
protection, and the shelter-belt itself should be too far away from the
garden to be sufficient protection. Around the garden I would plant
Juneberry or dogwood or any of those common native berry plants. They
will afford the very best kind of protection, just as good as the lilacs
and just as hardy, and at the same time will produce food for the birds
and bring them about your garden and keep them with you and shelter
them.
Mr. Kellogg: The barberry--
Mr. Mahler: The barberry would be all right, but I prefer the Juneberry
and the mulberry and the dogwood, because they come up a little higher.
The barberry is all right.
Mr. Kellogg: I had barberry, and I dug it all up.
Mr. Maher: It spread too much?
Mr. Richardson: I like the Russian mulberry.
Mr. Maher: Yes, sir.
Mr. Richardson: Is the mulberry hardy with you?
Mr. Maher: No, sir.
Mr. Moyer: The buckthorn makes a very good protection.
Mr. Maher: Yes, sir.
Mr. Huestis: How would the golden elder do as a hedge?
Mr. Maher: It would be a protection, but it is liable to spread too
much.
Mr. Huestis: Do you know whether the mulberry is hardy in Minnesota or
not?
Mr. Maher: I think from here south it is hardy, especially southeast.
Mr. Moyer: It occurs to me that the Tartarian honeysuckle is about as
good as any thing you can plant for birds. It is perfectly hardy on the
prairies and grows up ten or fifteen feet high.
Mr. Maher: The Tartarian honeysuckle and several varieties of the bush
honeysuckles are splendid, and they are hardy and will grow anywhere.
A Member: Did I understand some one to say that the mulberry was not
hardy?
Mr. Maher: It was stated that it wasn't hardy in North Dakota.
A Member: I put mulberry trees in my garden yard that have been bearing
mulberries for years and years.
Mr. Maher: I think the mulberry is hardy from here south and especially
southeast. I don't think it would grow out on the prairie very far.
Mr. Richardson: It grows on the prairies southwest of here.
My Color Scheme.
MRS. R. P. BOYINGTON, NEMADJI.
"Oh, my garden lying whitely in
The moonlight and the dew,
With its soft caressing coloring,
Breathing peace to all who view."
Our garden color scheme this year was a number of red, white and blue
pictures, these pictures being supported, on the different sides, by
brilliant, oriental color effects.
The first picture had for its north side the south side of the cottage,
which was covered with climbing roses (American Pillars and Crimson
Rambler). A bed of petunias, six feet wide and as long as the cottage,
came next, and was separated from about four hundred delphiniums
(belladonna) by a walk which was bordered on both sides by a row of
candytuft and a row of forget-me-nots, blue as a baby's eye. To the
south of the delphiniums was a great bank of bridal wreath
chrysanthemums, white as the driven snow.
A walk on the east had the same--candytuft and forget-me-not border. To
the south and west of this picture were irises and Oriental poppies in
all the gorgeous coloring of the Orient, with a small space on the west
where hundreds of pansies nodded their lovely faces to the stately blue
larkspurs. Are we sure, as has been said, that God forgot to put a soul
in flowers?
To the east, beyond the walk, is another picture--Shasta daisies and
blue cornflowers. On the north side is a brilliant hedge of red sweet
peas. On the east and south of this most exquisite picture are Iceland
poppies, red pyrethrums, and here and there are clumps of dark red sweet
william. In the early morn, just after the "morning stars have sung
together," and the forces of day are slowly coming into action, this is
a wonderous picture.
On the north side of the cottage is a screened-in porch. Here cardinal
climber gives its myriads of cheerful bloom, while blue lobelia and
white anemones, with the porch boxes filled with vinca atmosphere of
beauty and cheer to those who come and take the social cup that truly
cheers. The broad lawn slopes north to the driveway. To the east,
separating the lawn from the walk, which is west of the canna beds, is a
border of dusty miller next the grass and one row each of blue anchusa
and red snapdragon. The silver leaved poplars in the distance give a
soft sheen to the whole picture.
Away to the west is a spruce hedge and inside the hedge red hollyhocks
and phlox with a great row of crimson poppies. A simple garden made of
simple things, and yet as we go through it to our peony bed, that
gorgeous flower, standing alone in its regal, queenly beauty, we do not
wonder that when one of old walked with God it was in the cool of the
evening and in a garden.
"Where in all the dim resplendent spaces,
The mazy stars drift through
To my garden lying whitely in
The moonlight and the dew."
My Experience in Grape Culture.
JOSEPH TUCKER, AUSTIN. SO. MINN. HORT. SOCIETY
During fifteen years I have had in my garden several varieties of
grapes, namely, the Concord, Worden, Moore's Early and a green grape
(not certain of its name). All have done remarkably well whenever the
season was reasonably favorable. I mean by that the absence of the late
spring and the early fall frosts, which are the greatest drawbacks to
grape culture. For that reason I would not advise anyone to undertake it
as a business venture on a large scale. On the other hand, where it is
desired to supply the family table with fresh fruit as long as it will
keep, also to add a variety of jellies and preserves for the winter, a
dozen of vines will supply an ordinary family with grapes whose flavor I
have never seen surpassed.
You who do not always expect money to grow on everything you touch, you
who admire and love a plant or vine and feel well repaid for your labor
to see it grow and bear fruit, you who have a vacant corner in your
garden well adapted to that purpose, I urge you most earnestly to plant
some grape vines, and I assure you that with some knowledge of their
care and a determination not to fail you will succeed, and you will
eventually be able to see a pretty sight--for, to my mind, nothing is
handsomer than a well trimmed grape row with the ripening fruit. The
soil that will grow corn will produce good grapes. My advice is to
select early ripening varieties, for then you will only have the
possible spring frost to contend with, and that is easy to guard
against.
Do not fail to adopt some system of pruning, for that is the most
essential part of the secret to grow good grapes. Other necessary
information will no doubt be furnished by any reliable nurseryman with
whom you are dealing. I wish to say in conclusion that so far I have had
no trouble from any insects attacking the vines or fruit, and I have
always been able to produce fruit that commands the first premium
wherever exhibited.
Protect the Garden against Winter Weather.
U.S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE.
At this season many inquiries come to the United States Department of
Agriculture regarding the protection of garden plants and shrubs during
the winter. Such flowers as peonies and hollyhocks will come up again
the following year if they are properly protected during the winter,
while others, like cannas and dahlias, which are more accustomed to warm
climes, must have their roots or bulbs dug up and stored in a cellar.
The department's specialists give the following suggestions for "putting
the garden to bed":
_Hardy Perennials._--Cover hardy perennials, such as peonies, larkspur,
hollyhocks, columbines, iris, platycodons and perennial poppies, with a
good coating of manure or other litter to a depth of 3 or 4 inches. In
more southern localities this will hold the frost in the ground and keep
the plant from alternately freezing and thawing; in more northern
regions the manure will protect the plant from freezing to a depth that
will cut off its water supply.
_Cannas and Dahlias._--As soon as the tops of cannas, dahlias,
gladiolus, caladiums and similar plants are killed by frost, dig up the
roots or bulbs and store them in a cellar where the temperature will
remain at 55 degrees, and should never go below 50 or above 60 degrees.
Do not shake any more earth from the clumps of cannas and dahlias than
is necessary in removing them from the ground. Place the plants on racks
or in slat boxes so the air may circulate freely through them. No frost
must reach the roots nor must they become too warm or dry.
_Shrubs._--As a rule shrubs should not be trimmed in the fall. This
process is timely immediately after the blooming period, if this is in
the spring, as in the case of the snowball. If the shrubs bloom in the
fall, as do some hydrangeas, the rose of Sharon, and some lilacs, they
should not be cut directly after blooming but in the spring of the
following year. Lilacs, snowballs and mock orange should be let alone
during the winter, being neither trimmed nor covered with straw and
manure.
_Roses._--Almost all kinds of roses are hardy in the vicinities of
Washington, D.C., and St. Louis and to the south of a line drawn between
these points. From Washington northward local conditions influence the
successful cultivation of certain varieties. Some roses, as the brier
and rugosa, need no protection, but other varieties, such as the hybrid
perpetuals, teas and hybrid-teas, need special care, particularly north
of the fortieth parallel. Teas and hybrid teas hardly succeed in
Chicago, although the hybrid-perpetuals grow as far north as Canada. All
these classes do well on Long Island and in Boston near the sea when
proper care is given them. These varieties in the vicinity of Washington
need merely a little manure on the ground to prevent alternate freezing
and thawing. Farther north, however, they should be treated as follows:
Cut the tops to within 30 inches of the ground. Cover the roots with
coarse manure or leaves or similar litter. Hold this in place by
evergreen boughs which also acts as a protection. Brush from deciduous
trees or shrubs may be substituted for the evergreen boughs except in
the most northern regions.
Mounds of earth about six or eight inches in height should be drawn
about the base of the rose bushes to keep them from mice. As an added
protection against mice, permit the ground to freeze slightly before
winter protection is supplied. In fact, roses should not be protected
until after the first light freeze, which may be expected in Washington,
D.C., about the first of December, but earlier farther north. (Tops must
be protected in Minnesota.--Sec.)
_Climbing Roses._--In the latitude of Philadelphia and farther south
climbing roses usually need no protection during the winter unless they
are a particularly tender variety. Farther north these roses need
protection similar to that given to the tea and hybrid tea roses.
Where it is possible to do so, remove climbing roses from their
supports, and cover the branches with a little dirt. A little fall
trimming might be desirable to lessen the space occupied by the branches
on the ground. Such side branches as are not to be needed for next
season's blooming may be cut off. Such cutting off and shortening of the
ends as would otherwise be done in the spring may be done in the fall
before covering, merely for convenience.
Growing Asparagus.
A DISCUSSION LED BY E. W. RECORD, MARKET GARDENER, BROOKLYN CENTER.
A Member: I want to ask if many put salt on asparagus?
Mr. Record: Salt is very good, but I think only for the reason that it
makes the plant tender and keeps down insects. But if I was to use
anything to keep insects down I should use Paris green. Shorts or bran,
that is the best for cutworms. Everybody knows that with the least
scratch or mar on the side of the asparagus it will grow crooked, and
then it is a pretty hard proposition to get it into the bunch ready for
market in any kind of shape.
A Member: Some have the idea that salt helps the growth of the plant.
Mr. Record: Well, I never found it did.
Mr. Baldwin: I would like to know how to control rust on the stems in
the summer time.
Mr. Record: Well, I can't answer, but I find that the Palmetto has less
rust on it than any other variety. I have never been bothered with
asparagus rust yet.
Mr. Baldwin: After the bed gets to be a few years old the grass and
weeds commence to come up. After you get through cutting, it is pretty
hard work to get in there and clean them out. Do you find it the best
way to hoe them after you get through cutting?
Mr. Record: I will tell you. I cultivate right over the tops of the rows
and keep on cultivating until the asparagus comes up and begins to
sprout. By the time the weeds come up the second time, it is time to
quit cutting.
Mr. Baldwin: How deep do you put the plant below the surface in
transplanting?
Mr. Record: From twelve to fourteen inches. In the east they are growing
asparagus, and they set out their plants, and they fill in and wait
until the asparagus comes up and then they fill with rotted manure and
never fertilize any more, but here there are very few that do that. I
never did, but I find in putting on manure broadcast a year afterwards
the shoots were very crooked. I did that one year only. After I put it
on I thought I would have something good, and I didn't have anything. As
soon as it comes up it starts to get crooked.
Mr. Baldwin: You mean to say that putting manure on top makes the
asparagus crooked?
Mr. Record: That was my experience.
Mr. Baldwin: I have always practiced that. I think what makes it crooked
is cultivating the top and cutting the crowns off.
A Member: When the weeds come in we disk it.
Mr. Record: I never like to disk it. If your bed is very old you are
liable to cut some of your crowns rather than to keep the weeds out.
A Member: Your manure would be all gone then?
Mr. Record: I know there was a man right adjoining me who had an
asparagus bed, and he used a lot of rotten manure the summer before, and
he got very little asparagus that was marketable. I asked him what the
trouble was, and he said he didn't know. This year he had a good crop. I
can't say it was the manure that did that, only it looks that way.
A Member: How would you start a new planting?
Mr. Record: I would plow my ground thoroughly and get it in good shape.
A Member: Wouldn't fertilize the first season?
Mr. Record: I would. I would fertilize my asparagus ground two years.
A Member: I mean in preparing your patch for the new planting?
Mr. Record: I would first plow and harrow and then fertilize. Plow both
ways from fourteen to sixteen inches deep and with a fine cultivator
loosen up the bottom of furrow and put in the plants and cover with a
little earth. Then with the horse keep filling in the furrow. I saw this
summer several men with hoes working. That is all right, but it takes a
long time, especially with the proposition we are up against about hired
help. I can do it just as well with the horse and four times as fast.
The second year you can harrow it any way you want to.
A Member: Common corn land, is that fit for raising asparagus?
Mr. Record: Yes, sir, asparagus will grow on poor ground better than
many other vegetables will.
A Member: Will it improve that land by fertilizing with top dressing?
Mr. Record: I think so.
A Member: The heavy land I suppose wouldn't be good for it?
Mr. Record: They raise good asparagus on clay land, but I don't think it
will grow as good as on sandy soil. It is not quite so warm; it packs
harder and I think more liable to grow crooked.
A Member: I was called out to see a man's asparagus bed. He asked me
what kind of ground I thought it must be, and I said a light soil. This
man had a heavy clay, and it rained on it, and then the sun came out
very hot and the top cooked, and when the little shoots were to come up
they turned back. That ground wasn't good for asparagus.
Mr. Record: It should have been harrowed well after that rain.
A Member: You see he couldn't get in there.
A Member: What fertilizer is good? Is bone meal good?
Mr. Record: Any commercial fertilizer is good, I think. Bone meal is
good.
Mr. Crawford: Can you raise asparagus successfully in the shade or a
partial shade?
Mr. Record: Well, I wouldn't want too much. I have shade on both sides
of mine; it is a hedge. I notice it isn't near so good next to the hedge
as it is out in the middle of the bed, although shade on both sides
protects it from the wind and makes it hotter. The hotter it is, the
faster it will grow.
Mr. Crawford: I asked the question because I have a west line shade
several years old, trees are willow and box elder. Considerable of the
ground is a loss to me, practically so, from that shade.
Mr. Record: I don't think it is a very good place for asparagus.
A Member: I would like to ask if a person on clay soil could use sawdust
to work in?
Mr. Record: Horse manure with sawdust, we use a great deal of that, that
is, planing mill shavings. That is all right. That will loosen up the
ground some, but when it is turned over, of course, it will harden up
again if there comes a good hard rain on it.
A Member: How many years have you maintained a bed?
Mr. Record: Why, it will go from twelve to fourteen years, although the
place that I am on now, I know that was good for twenty-five or
twenty-six. It is practically gone now, but for twenty years it was
good. But of late years it won't run over twelve to fifteen.
Mr. Willard: I would like to ask something about changing an old
asparagus bed to a new position.
Mr. Record: I wouldn't advise you to use the old roots. You get a bed
quicker by using plants that are two years old, and of course there are
some plants better than others. I bought my plants in the east. Now they
have good plants here, a good many of them, too, but I have never seen
anything as good as I got for my last bed. The best way if I was going
into it, being a market gardener, would be to go to some neighbor that
had a good straight bed and get my own seed. It is very easy to save,
and most anyone would give a man all he wanted and charge him nothing.
All he would do would be to gather it up.
Mr. Miller: I would like to ask--I only grow for kitchen garden and I
presume most of us are in the same boat--we were told to plow a furrow
deeply and fill it with good manure and to plant the roots with the
crowns about four inches below the surface of the bed.
Mr Record: Well, I wouldn't fertilize it first. I would, as I say, plow
my furrow and loosen up the bottom of it, so that the plants will get a
chance to get started. You know if you are plowing it out or shoveling
it out it will get down to hard ground. That isn't so good. You loosen
up the bottom and put your plants evenly over the ground and put in a
little dirt, and if you have it a little barnyard manure.
Mr. Miller: I suppose the idea of putting that in the bottom is that it
is so hard to cultivate the manure on the top without doing as you
mentioned?
The Running Out of Varieties.
PROF. C. B. WALDRON, HORTICULTURIST, AGRI. COLLEGE, N.D.
There is no fact more familiar to gardeners, orchardists and farmers
than the "running out" of varieties, and no question that is more
obscure as to its causes. The possibility of deterioration of varieties
is noted to a greater or less extent in all field and garden crops,
particularly with those that are most highly developed, or which
represent the greatest departure from the original species.
It is evident that the cause must lie either in the environment which
surrounds the variety or in the selection which it has received, or in a
combination of the two. It is held also by some that aside from the
influence of soil and climate, and in spite of the most rigid selection,
there is an inherent tendency in varieties to depart in a more or less
marked degree from the type in which they first appeared. This is
particularly true of new varieties that have not yet become established.
Almost before the plant breeder can determine their type they have
broken up into so many distinct forms that it is impossible to get any
further than the first generation.
This has been noted several times with new varieties of squashes and
other cucurbits, and to a similar but less marked degree with tomatoes
and some other garden crops. These might well be termed evanescent
varieties, and since they never become fixed or find their way into
cultivation they are of interest only to the plant breeder.
The influence of environment, particularly soil and climate, upon the
size, quality and productiveness of certain garden crops is well known,
though just what effect this may have in determining the hereditary
character of a variety has never been very well worked out and is still
a matter of much doubt. We know, for instance, that there is a tendency
for corn grown in the middle or southern latitude to attain to a larger
size and require a longer period for maturity than the same corn grown
in the north. This tendency is shown in the first generation, but
whether it appears as a constant hereditary character or not is still
open to discussion.
There are those who maintain that it is just as practical to develop a
dwarf, early variety of corn in the middle latitudes with careful
selection as it is to develop a variety of equal earliness when the
planting is done in the north. These maintain that the reason the
dwarf, early varieties of corn are not normally developed in the middle
latitudes is because the selection in those places is usually made from
the large plants which yield well, instead of from the small, early
plants, such as would be naturally selected at the north.
By the same reasoning it is held that the constant growing of any
species or variety in the northern latitudes does not increase hardiness
but only enables us to determine which is hardy, thereby enabling us by
selection to increase the hardiness of our varieties.
[Illustration: Cat-leaf weeping birch and shrubbery on campus of
Agricultural College at Fargo, N.D.]
We must admit that this reasoning has a sound scientific basis, its
principal weakness at the present time being that there has not been
enough experimental work done to determine how general and constant its
application is.
However true it may be as a scientific principle, we have on the other
hand the undoubted fact that varieties of certain plants, like the
cauliflower, are so strongly modified by environment that the varieties
disappear altogether as such unless the breeding plants are grown under
very definite conditions. It is well known that cauliflower seed can be
grown, for instance, only in certain parts of Europe around the North
Sea and to a limited extent in the vicinity of Seattle, and that
cauliflower seed from any other region produces plants which not only
lose all varietal characteristics but which scarcely resemble
cauliflower at all.
As an illustration of this same principle millet affords an excellent
example. Grown at the north for a number of years, without change of
seed, it becomes short with stiff straw and very large heads, yielding a
large quantity of seed. When grown as far south as Tennessee for a
period of five years only, it assumes a very different character, being
tall and leafy with small heads and not very productive of seed. It
might be possible by very rigid selection to develop a variety of millet
that would tend to be tall and leafy even in the north, but it is
doubtful if it would remain so, and the difficulty of keeping it up to
type would be too great to make it profitable.
All this is equivalent to saying that there are certain unstable
varieties that are so influenced by climate that it is not good practice
to try and keep them up to any given standard except when they are grown
in regions which naturally develop the type that we are seeking to
maintain.
The more striking examples coming under this class are cauliflower,
millet, onions, tobacco and some of the flowering plants.
A few years ago it was supposed that the running out of varieties of
celery was due to a similar cause, that is, to unfavorable environment.
To this was ascribed the pithy quality that characterized some of the
varieties. Upon further investigations, however, it was found that this
pithy condition came about through carelessness in seed selection. There
is a more or less inherent tendency in all celery to become pithy, and
unless these plants are carefully excluded, the varieties will run out
from that cause.
The different varieties of tomatoes, egg plant and the cucurbits do not
seem to be especially affected by soil and climate, and in such
instances the varieties can be kept up only by rigid selection, no
matter how favorable that environment is under which they are grown.
With these plants there is always the inherent tendency to go back more
or less to the wild state, and lapse of care in seed selection for a
period of only a few years will result in a variety very different from
the one which we had in the beginning.
It will be seen from this that in some instances the best plan is for
each farmer or gardener to develop his own strains of crops that he
grows, while in other cases it is best to leave the selection to those
that are working in a more favored environment so far as those varieties
are concerned.
There still remains to be considered the plants that are propagated
asexually, like potatoes and all our cultivated fruits. From the fact
that a number of our standard varieties of apples and some other fruits
date back one hundred years or more, and are still as productive as at
the beginning, it is evident that some asexually propagated varieties
may be considered almost fixed or permanent.
[Illustration: Niobe willow (Salix vitellina, var. pendula nova), on
campus N.D. Agri. College, Fargo.]
The buds or scions from which new trees are started are taken
indiscriminately from the bearing trees, and since there is no great
variation in them the varieties do not tend to change. Whether they
could be improved by taking scions from only the most productive trees
is still a question. There are some who consider this possible, but we
do not yet have enough experimental evidence to establish it as a fact.
So far it would seem that about the only crop which is propagated
asexually that is likely to deteriorate, or is capable of improvement,
is one that is directly modified by soil and climate.
The potato is the most striking example of this class of crops. It is
well known that the potato responds very readily in the matter of size,
yield and quality to certain types of soil and climatic conditions. It
is also known that the qualities thus acquired seem to be more or less
permanent; that is, that potatoes brought from the north, especially
those which have been grown in heavy soil, will produce a crop some ten
days earlier and thirty per cent larger than a crop grown from seed
produced in a region six hundred miles farther south. Early Ohio
potatoes grown in North Dakota, when used for seed in southern Iowa,
give a much larger and somewhat earlier crop than the native grown seed.
This would indicate that the potato is bound to run out in a measure if
grown continually in southern latitudes, and in this instance a change
of seed, using always the seed from the northern latitudes and the
heavier soil, is necessary, in order to keep the variety up to standard.
[Illustration: Carnege library and flower beds at N.D. Agricultural
College, Fargo.]
It will be seen that while there is no question as to the fact of
varieties running out, that they differ a great deal in this respect,
and it is only through a knowledge of the facts covering each variety,
or at least the varieties of each species, that would enable a grower to
know what to do in order to keep a variety up to the highest standard.
Mr. Kellogg: What is the matter with the old Wilson strawberry?
Mr. Waldron: I think people forgot about it and began growing better
varieties. I know there is an impression among strawberry growers that
the Wilson strawberry has run out. I don't know. I know it has been
supplanted by other varieties, and the general impression of most men is
that it is because other varieties, better varieties, came in and that
variety was neglected.
Mr. Kellogg: It can be found in eastern catalogs now.
Mr. Waldron: Isn't it as good now as it was?
Mr. Kellogg: That is what I want to know.
Mr. Waldron: I understand that it is from the people that have grown
them. I don't know of any strawberry in my career from the first time
that I have been working in strawberries that seems to be any poorer now
than it was twenty-five or thirty years ago. The Wilson might be an
exception. I know that has been referred to as an instance of
deterioration of variety. The strawberry might be so dependent on
climatic and soil conditions that it might be classed with the potatoes
and not be in a class with the apples, which don't seem to deteriorate.
Mr. Kellogg: Is there such a thing as a pedigreed strawberry plant that
is taken from runners?
Mr. Waldron: We have experiments going on at the agricultural college
now. We set out a number of plants from strawberry growers that
advertise a pedigreed strawberry, and beside those we have strawberry
plants from growers who don't advertise them as pedigreed. This year we
ought to get some returns on that; last year the patch was flooded
out--we had very heavy June rains. We have about ten varieties from a
large number of different growers, some supposed to be perfect and some
not. We are going to have some report of them at the next horticultural
meeting. I don't believe there is anything much in pedigreed
strawberries.
The President: In the state of North Dakota our friend here who has just
spoken occupies the same position in the hearts and minds of the people
of his state as do our friends Haralson, Hansen and Patten in this
section. His work is along a little different line, his being almost
purely an agricultural section, but he is a very practical man and is
doing splendid work up there.
Mr. Doty: I wish to say a word on this strawberry question. Some years
ago the postmaster at Monticello wanted to know of me what kind of
strawberries to set out; I was handling nursery goods at that time. I
told him I would recommend to him the Wilson, the Warfield and the
Haverland. The Wilson I would set in the center. He had six square rods.
He set them out. The second year he invited me up to his patch and asked
me to guess on how many strawberries he had raised on that patch. I
said: "Six bushels"--I thought I would put it high. But he said: "I have
picked twelve bushels from that patch." I said: "It can't be possible,"
and he said: "Come right into my shop here. I have a paper here and I
put down every single quart of strawberries that I have sold here." I
figured it up and found that he had twelve bushels out of that patch. I
told him to set the Wilson in the center, the Warfield on one side and
the Haverland on the other. He did so and that was the result, the best
result that I have ever known.
The President: How many years ago?
Mr. Doty: Well, it was about fifteen years ago.
GARDEN HELPS
Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society
Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So.
Minneapolis.
October is one of the best months in which to plant shrubs. After the
leaves show them to be dormant they can be safely moved and will become
established before very cold weather.
Each year we are learning that _more_ planting can be done in the fall
if done early enough, and by so doing one escapes a part of the rush
that comes in the spring. "Anything that is hardy can be moved in the
fall," an old nurseryman once said to me, and it has been a safe rule to
follow. But note the word "hardy" in his advice. All stock, either
shrubbery or perennials, that are planted in the fall should be well
mulched.
The bulbs for the spring garden, except those that require early
planting, will also need to be put in this month in order to make a good
root growth before frost overtakes them. Here we are able to achieve
exact results as they very seldom disappoint us as to color or time of
blooming as some other plants do.
Have you tried planting your bulbs with any of the ground cover plants
that will take away the bare look that most bulb beds have? The arabis
with its snowy blossoms is beautiful beneath the early tulips. The
violas--with such a wide range of color--make lovely backgrounds for the
later tulips, as also do the creeping phlox and the native lavender blue
divaricata phlox. A bed of this beneath pale pink Darwin tulips is one
of the lovely memories of last spring's garden.
Another snowy white flower is the perennial candytuft, Iberis. Blooming
at the same time and remaining lovely for a long period it combines well
with any of the tall tulips or narcissi or daffodils. Alyssum saxatile,
with its sheet of gold, and the dear forget-me-nots, both grow well
beneath the tulips. The fine lacey tufts of meadow rue are lovely among
the pink and white and rose tulips. Surely the bulb beds need not be
bare.
The very early blossoms are always the most welcome. So plant some
bulbs, at least twenty-five, of scillas, snowdrops, snowflakes (Leucojum
vernum). These, if left undisturbed, will increase greatly. The
chionodoxas, grape hyacinths and crocuses are all well worth planting,
but do not put the latter in the grass as they will not do well there in
our climate.
FOR OUR ROSE GROWERS.
Members of the American Rose Society have been raising money to employ a
trained plant pathologist to study diseases of roses. The work has been
begun under Dr. L. M. Massey, of the New York State College of
Agriculture, Cornell University, Ithaca, N.Y.
By co-operating with Dr. Massey all growers of roses will greatly
increase the efficiency of the investigations. A rose disease survey
will first be made. It is here that all rose growers can help by sending
specimens of diseased plants, with a statement regarding varieties
affected, nature and extent of the injury, time of appearance of the
disease and any other things that have been noticed regarding it.
Information for the control of the disease will be given by Dr. Massey.
The following directions are given to those sending specimens:
"The material sent should be freshly collected and should show various
stages of the development of the disease. Where roots are sent it will
usually be undesirable to enclose any soil. Where convenient specimens
should be mailed so as to reach Ithaca the latter part of the week.
Place leaves, buds, etc., between the leaves of an old newspaper, a few
between each two sheets. Then roll into a tight bundle and wrap in stout
paper. Attach one of the franked tags (which may be had upon request),
on which you have written your name and address, and mail. It will go
postage free--H.H. Whetzel, Head of the Department of Plant Pathology,
New York State College of Agriculture, Cornell University, Ithaca."
* * * * *
Meeting of Garden Flower Society, St. Paul, Wilder building, 2:30 p.m.,
October 19. Topics: "How I Made My Garden Pay" and "Work of Garden
Clubs." Reports of seed trials.
[Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF A FIELD OF THREE YEAR OLD SEEDLING
PEONIES ON THE GROUNDS OF BRAND NURSERY CO., AT FARIBAULT, MINN.]
While it is not the intention to publish anything in this
magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be
remembered that the articles published herein recite the
experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must
always be noted in estimating their practical value.
THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST
Vol. 44 NOVEMBER, 1916 No. 11
Peonies--Old and New.
A.M. BRAND, NURSERYMAN, FARIBAULT.
About the first thing I can remember, as I look back over the years that
are past, is my father's field of peonies, and of a man standing at a
table with a large peony clump before him cutting it up into divisions.
I remember wondering how such beautiful flowers could come out of such
an ugly, dirty root. The bright little eyes, some red, some white and
others pink interested me, and boy fashion I put many questions to the
man about them. And then my father came by and noticing my interest in
the matter, though a busy man, stopped and explained to me the process
of dividing the roots.
That was forty years ago, but from that day to this I have watched with
ever increasing interest the growth and handling of peonies. I was but a
small boy then, but I remember my father gave me his big pruning knife,
and under his guidance I divided my first peony. And I thought I had
done fairly well, for he patted me on the head and said it was well done
and that some day I would make a nurseryman.
The peony industry as far as the West was concerned was in its infancy
then. We had few varieties--peony buyers had not yet become critical. I
can remember of but four sorts: the white variety, Whitleyii, now called
Queen Victoria; the red Pottsii and the two pinks, Fragrans and Humeii.
Peonies were then sold as red peonies, white peonies and pink peonies,
and that was all there was to it, and the customer felt very lucky if he
got the color he ordered.
But a wonderful change came over the industry along in the nineties.
Some of the better varieties had worked west in different ways, and
people began to waken to the fact that there were more than simply red
peonies, white peonies and pink peonies. Such varieties as Festiva
Maxima, Edulis Superba, Marie Lemoine, Eugene Verdier and the like came
to us. Flower lovers slowly began to realize that the old, despised
"piny" of mother's garden was a thing of the past, and that here in its
stead we had a glorious and beautiful flower. And as the better
varieties have continued to come from year to year, the interest in the
flower has continued to increase until now I think I am safe in saying
that in the colder portion of our country at least, and in our own state
in particular, the interest manifested in the peony is greater than that
taken in any other flower.
And it is of this modern peony that I am asked to tell you--of its
cultivation and care, how it is multiplied and how the new sorts are
produced.
Right here at the start I wish to correct an erroneous impression about
the peony that has been spread broadcast throughout the land by means of
not too carefully edited catalogues and misinformed salesmen.
We often hear an agent say or we read in some catalogue, "When you have
the peony planted all is done." Now this is not true. It comes a long
ways from being true. I think the very results which the following out
of this belief have brought about are accountable for the production of
more poor peonies than all other causes put together. The peony, it is
true, will stand more abuse than any other flower you can name and still
give fairly good results, but if you want good peonies you must take
good care of them.
The planting season opens about the first of September in
Minnesota--probably the middle of the month is safer--and it continues
right up to the freeze-up in the fall and up to the middle of May in the
spring. We have lifted peonies that have grown a foot in the spring,
packed them carefully, shipped them to middle Wisconsin, and in the fall
had the shipment reported as having done splendidly. September planted
roots will bloom the following season. After that there is little choice
between fall and spring planting.
The peony root will stand lots of abuse after being thoroughly ripe, but
still it is best to handle it with care. Keep it fresh and plump until
planted. If accidentally it becomes shriveled, immerse for twenty-four
hours in a pail of water. This will revive it. Remove from the water and
plant immediately. The roots should be planted with the tops of the buds
from two to three inches below the surface--not more than three inches
at the most.
Many times you will notice that you have a nice, thrifty looking plant,
but that it does not bloom. Nine times out of ten if you examine into
the matter you will find that your plant was set from six to eight
inches deep--and this is why it didn't bloom. Another cause of peonies
not blooming is their being planted in lawns where the soil is
impoverished by the roots of large trees.
The common method of propagation of established varieties is by
division. Grafting is resorted to by professionals in some instances,
but that does not interest us here.
The peony will do well in any well drained soil, though a rich sandy
loam is the best. It will give splendid results in heavy clay if well
cultivated and if at the blooming season in case of drouth the plants
are well watered.
Of all soils a sandy one is the poorest for the production of bloom,
although, on the contrary, for the rapid production of roots the lighter
soils are ideal. Such soils not only produce roots much more rapidly
than the heavier soils, but produce a root that divides easier and to
better advantage. But it is with the cultivation of the plant that we
are most interested.
As I have said before, no plant will stand more abuse than the peony and
still give fairly good results, but if given a good soil and then good
cultivation we have no flower that will give us more satisfaction for
the care we give it.
When grown in large numbers peonies should be planted, if possible, so
that the plants can be cultivated with a horse. Deep cultivation seems
to bring the best flowers. Where we can give horse cultivation we start
the cultivator just as early in the spring as we can. As a rule we start
by the middle of April and keep it going through the plants once a week
at least, and oftener if necessary, right up to the time when the buds
start to open. Cultivation here ceases until the blooming season is over
and is then resumed often enough to destroy all weeds up to the first of
August. We use one and two-horse cultivators and run the shovels to
within three or four inches of the plants and two to three inches deep.
But few of us can cultivate in this way. Field cultivating methods are
hard to apply to the lawn and garden. But we may get the same results in
other ways. Clumps of peonies on the lawn should be so planted that a
cultivated space encircling the plant at least a foot wide is left.
This space should be covered in the fall with a mulch of well rotted
barnyard manure which should be forked or spaded into the soil in the
spring. And the soil about the plant should be thoroughly forked over,
to a depth of two to four inches, three or four times before the
blooming season.
Where the plants are planted in borders and beds in the garden, mulch
and cultivate in the same way, stirring the soil all about and between
the plants. Care should be taken in applying the manure mulch not to get
it directly over the plant if the tops have been cut back. The stems are
hollow as they die out in the fall, and thawing snow and occasional
rains of winter leach the strength out of the manure, and this filters
down through these hollow stems and comes in contact with the roots and
rots them.
For the sake of protection the peony needs no winter mulch. For this
latitude it is perfectly hardy.
After the blooming season cut all the blossom stems back to the leaves
for looks. Do not cut the leaf stalk back until about the middle of
September. By that time the plant is dormant, and all top growth can be
removed with perfect safety.
Most of us are willing to spend this time and labor if we get results
and to get the best results with peonies we must have good varieties. Of
named peonies there are somewhere in the neighborhood of 2,000
varieties. Large collections now catalogue all the way from 250 to 500
sorts. From such collections it is hard for those not thoroughly
familiar with the merits of the varieties to make an intelligent
selection of moderate priced peonies for a small planting. For people so
situated I make the following suggestion of varieties:
_White_: Candissima, Festiva Maxima, Duchess de Nemours, Duke of
Wellington, Couronne d'Or, Queen Victoria, Avalanche, Madam de
Verneville, Mons Dupont, Marie Lemoine.
_Pink_: Edulis Superba, Model de Perfection, Monsieur Jules Elie,
Livingston, Mathilde de Roseneck, Alexander Dumas.
_Light Pink_: Eugene Verdier, Delicatissima, Marguerite Gerard,
Dorchester Eugene Verdier.
_Red_: Richard Carvel, Felix Crousse, Meissonier, Rachel, Delachii,
Purpurea Superba and Rubra Superba.
So much for the old peonies. Now to the new ones. And the question
naturally comes, why any new ones? With over 2,000 varieties shouldn't
we be satisfied? No! Many of the varieties catalogued might be
eliminated, and we should be the gainer thereby. I believe I am safe in
saying that if the present list were cut down to 300 sorts it would
cover all the varieties worth while. And there is such a great chance
for improvement! So many beautiful varieties coming to us of late years
beckon us on. Crousse, Dessert and Lemoine have set the pace, and we of
America will not be left behind.
[Illustration: Looking up the rows of a bed of our seedlings three years
after transplanting. The white variety in the centre of the picture is
Frances Willard, considered by us one of the world's best whites. At the
time this picture was taken, the flowers were just opening, so one gets
no idea of the size of the blooms after they open.]
Either eighteen or nineteen years ago my father definitely set about the
bringing forth of a line of new peonies. For years he had been
experimenting with seedling apples. His immense collection of peonies
gave him the idea of producing something better along that line. A great
bed was planted out from which to collect seed. Hundreds of the best
varieties obtainable were planted in this bed, two of each variety, with
a very liberal use of the three varieties, Edulis Superba, Fragrans and
Triumph de l'Ex. de Lille. Some twelve varieties of the most vigorous
singles of all colors were also used. Bees and the elements were
allowed to do the cross-fertilizing. In the fall of 1899 the first seed,
amounting in all to about a peck, was harvested and planted. This seed
was allowed to dry and was planted just before it froze up, directly
into the field where the plants were to remain and bloom.
The seed was planted about two inches deep, in rows two feet apart, with
the seeds six inches apart in the row. Immediately after the ground
froze a two-inch mulch of coarse slough hay was spread all over the
field. This was removed in the spring and the field kept perfectly clean
that season by hand weeding, as cultivation could not be practiced. No
seed germinated that year. That fall the ground was again mulched, and
this mulch removed early the next, or second, spring.
This second season just as soon as nature began to quicken the little
peonies began to pierce the soil. Standing at one end of the field and
looking down the rows one could fairly see the little fellows burst
forth from their long confinement and thrust their little red heads in
serried ranks through the brown earth. They reminded one of line upon
line of miniature red-coated soldiers on parade.
A fourteen-tooth Planet Jr. horse cultivator was immediately started
amongst them, and intense cultivation given the bed that season. By the
end of the growing season the little plants were from two to four inches
high.
The next spring, the third from the planting of the seed, the young
plants burst through the ground strong and robust. Cultivation was
started immediately, as during the season before, and the plants made
rapid growth. By the middle of May, most of them were eight inches high
with an abundance of foliage.
We noticed a few buds appear this season. The strong, vigorous
development of the buds, of one plant in particular, continued to claim
our attention, and we watched it with intense interest. Day by day the
buds grew larger, and then finally a day came when the first petal
lifted, and the next morning the petals spread forth in all their glory.
It was a gem, we realized we had something first class. My father said
after he had studied it a while, "It pays me for all my time, and money,
and work. If I never get another as good I shall be satisfied." It was a
beautiful dark red, very early, as good a red as Terry's Rachel. We
named it Richard Carvel.
Six other plants bloomed that season. One was of the Japanese type. The
others singles.
By the next spring the small plants were well established, and we knew
by their vigorous growth that we might expect the most of them to bloom
that season.
Thorough cultivation was given from the start, and by the middle of May
the bed was covered with a mass of buds. June came. The blooming season
was at hand. Slowly the buds began to show color. Here and there over
the field a petal began to lift. A short space of anxious waiting, and
then a day came when it seemed as if the bed had been touched by a hand
of magic, for from one end to the other it was one solid blaze of color.
Before us were thousands upon thousands of flowers and no two alike.
As quick as the flowers began to open we started to grade and mark them.
It took two men working steadily for a week to inspect and mark this
bed. Everything that looked choice was marked No. 1. Everything that
looked as though it stood a chance of coming choice, if given a better
chance, was marked No. 2. All other doubles were marked double with
their color. And all singles were marked single with their color.
When the digging season came those marked Nos. 1 and 2 were lifted and
divided and each planted in a bed specially prepared for them. Each sort
was staked. These plants were set in rows three and one-half feet apart
and three feet apart in the row.
Intense cultivation was given them for three years. The performance of
each sort was recorded for each year. At the end of the third year those
sorts which had come good two years out of the three were again lifted
and planted in another soil and watched closely for another period of
three years. This gave us a pretty definite knowledge of their behavior,
made us acquainted with them. It toned down, as I might say, the
enthusiasm with which we first selected them, allowed of our making
careful comparison with the best sorts, and finally enabled us to keep
what were really choice. We did not have any need for the others.
Of the ones first selected as No. 1 from the seed bed, about thirty-five
in number, we finally kept eight; of those marked No. 2, about sixty. We
afterwards selected two as first class.
Those plants simply marked double in the seed bed were planted in a
regular field bed by themselves. Each plant was divided and staked. This
bed was allowed to stand three years and the plants were carefully noted
each year as they bloomed for varieties that we might have accidentally
overlooked in the seed bed. Among these thousands of plants we found two
sorts which we called first class. One of these, though it is sixteen
years since the seed was planted, we are just about to send out.
I have given you the history of this single bed because it shows about
how the seedling peony must be handled. We have since varied our method
in handling in a single respect. We no longer plant our seed direct in
the field. We find it much better to plant broadcast in seed beds. These
are much more economical to keep clean the first year. After the little
seedlings are one year old or, better, after they are two years old, we
lift them in September and plant them in a permanent bed.
[Illustration: Our seedling Harriet Farnsley, a very late all one color
pink. This variety is in bloom at the same time as Richardson's Rubra
Grandiflora, at a time when most good peonies are gone. The flower from
which this photo was taken measured seven inches across.]
Now if any of you are tempted to grow peonies from seed let me warn you
not to get too enthusiastic in anticipating results. The chances are
that 999 out of every 1,000 will have to be discarded. Test thoroughly
before you decide to keep. The flower my father and I both decided our
best when it first bloomed we no longer keep. Our best flower is one we
took no particular notice of the first two years it blossomed.
But do not let me discourage you. Though eight or ten choice varieties
may seem small returns, still there is a pleasure in the work that you
cannot fail but feel. And when you go forth into your fields after your
stocks of better sorts have increased so that you can have each kind
blooming about you in long rows, and as you see first this beautiful
variety and then that come into bloom, you feel well repaid for the
years of waiting and the labor you have bestowed upon them.
Mr. Brand: A great many people ask the question whether just as soon as
the peony has blossomed they cannot cut the top off. It would be a great
mistake to do so. Your peony growth does not complete its development
until about the middle of September, and if you cut the top off just as
soon as the plant has blossomed you are going to have a great many of
them rot. We had a very striking illustration of this two years ago.
Just as our peony season was closing we had a severe hailstorm which cut
our peony beds right off down to the ground. We couldn't save the tops
if we had wanted to. That fall when we dug our roots it was almost
impossible to fill our orders, because the roots were in such terrible
shape. The tops were removed before they ought to have been.
Talking about disappointments with peonies, I think the peony I was most
impressed with of all the seedlings we have had came good but once. That
was eleven or twelve years ago. As I look back upon it I think this was
the most beautiful flower we ever grew, but it never came good but that
once. I was so impressed with its beauty that I took it from where it
bloomed in the seedbed and planted it at my house in the garden. When it
came on to bloom, it was a disappointment and has been such ever since.
I still keep it, hoping that some year it may bloom again as it did that
first year.
Mr. Harrison: Not a bit of it. They are the most lying vegetable on the
face of the earth. May I ask if Mr. Peterson, of Chicago, is here? He is
an expert peony man. I presume we will all like to hear from him.
Mr. Peterson: I haven't anything to add; if you want to ask questions I
will be glad to answer them.
The President: Ladies and gentlemen, you probably know that Mr. Peterson
is one of the expert peony men of the United States. In fact, as far as
fifteen years back we were able to get some of the newer and better
varieties from this gentleman. I never had the pleasure of meeting him,
but we want to meet you, Mr. Peterson. You have all heard of Mr.
Peterson, the peony man of Chicago and a life member of this society.
(Applause.)
Mr. Peterson: I have nothing to add. I have been in the game a good many
years. We have systematically kept track of over three hundred varieties
since 1888, so that it may be if you have any questions to ask I might
be able to answer them, and I would be glad to. The proposition that
Mr. Brand has stated is actually within the facts. We have raised
thousands of seedlings, and not one of them do we now grow. You see some
of the Peterson seedlings listed in other people's catalogues, but I
don't have one myself.
A Member: What kind of varieties would you suggest for the ordinary home
garden, best dozen varieties?
Mr. Peterson: I would name for the white peonies, the Madam de
Verneville, Avalanche, Couronnes d'Or; of the pale pink, Delicatissima,
Marie Crousse, Grandiflora; of the red, Monsieur Martin Cohuzac,
Monsieur Krelage, Felix Crousse; of the deep pink, Modeste Guerin, M.
Jules Elie and Claire Dubois. I do think that Mr. Brand has some of
exceptional merit that will probably be put in the red class. I don't
know his others, but Felix Crousse is undoubtedly the best of its type
in the red.
A Member: Have you tried out the Baroness Schroeder?
Mr. Peterson: I surely have. It is very fine, but it is a little
changeable, not only in its habits but in its shade. If you want a
perfect white, it isn't that, it is a nearly flesh white. I would say
that the Madame Emile Lemoine is finer.
A Member: Do you advise spraying for them?
Mr. Peterson: No, but I tell you what was asked of me today, which is
the secret of having no disease in our plants. Any two-year-old plant in
our field that doesn't bloom, we dig it up and throw it away, and that
will nip any trouble in the bud, and then you will not get any strain
that is not blooming. If we see any other defect, any that won't head
good, we take it up and throw it away. That one point I think all of you
can well follow, and that is, to dig up every two-year-old plant that
doesn't bloom and throw it away, that is, during the blooming season.
Mr. Harrison: Some varieties will bloom and some won't. You have got to
punish the whole on account of the few?
Mr. Peterson: I do that. If I have a two-year-old plant that is blooming
in a section I keep it and follow it up.
Mr. Harrison: Any special rule about multiplying or dividing?
Mr. Peterson: No, except to divide in September, even possibly the last
week of August, and the earlier they are divided at that time when the
eyes are large, the better it is.
* * * * *
CAN FRUIT WITHOUT SUGAR.--_Canning Specialists Say Boiling
Water May Be Used Instead of Sirup._ Fruit for use in pies or salads or
as stewed fruit can be put up or canned without the use of any sugar at
all, according to the canning specialists of the department. They,
therefore, advise those who, because of the high price of sugar, have
been thinking of reducing the amount of fruit they put up to can as much
of their surplus as possible by the use of boiling water when sugar
sirup is beyond their means. Any fruit, they say, may be successfully
sterilized and retained in the pack by simply adding boiling water
instead of the hot sirup. The use of sugar, of course, is desirable in
the canning of all kinds of fruits and makes a better and ready
sweetened product. Moreover, most of the fruits when canned in water
alone do not retain their natural flavor, texture and color as well as
fruit put up in sirup. Fruit canned without sugar to be used for sauces
or desserts must be sweetened.
Fruit Retail Methods and Costs.
CLARENCE W. MOOMAW AND M.M. STEWART, FRUIT AND PRODUCE MARKETERS,
PORTLAND, OREGON.
On studying the various phases of city apple marketing, special
attention was given to retail methods and costs. The purpose of this
study was chiefly to learn whether the wholesale supply controls the
price. The cost of operation as a factor in determining retail prices
also was investigated as far as possible.
Retail apple distributors may be classed as follows:
(a) Fruit-stand vendors.
(b) Fancy grocers, fruiterers, etc., catering almost exclusively to
high-class or fashionable trade and doing a very extensive credit
business.
(c) Grocers catering to a cheaper class of trade, largely upon a cash
basis.
(d) Hucksters or street peddlers.
Relatively high prices were charged for apples purchased at fruit
stands. Extra fancy Northwestern and Colorado Jonathans were sold to the
dealers during October and November at prices ranging from $1 to $1.25
per box. Apples which grade 150 to the box retailed at two for five
cents, or $3.75 per box. This meant a gross profit of about 250 per
cent. In the ninety-six size, extra fancy Jonathans sold at three for
ten cents, or $3.20 per box, showing a gross profit of about 200 per
cent.
In the East Side tenement section of New York City it was learned that
by reason of the cheap prices prevailing and the heavy supply of apples
arriving the peddlers were operating to the detriment of fruit stands.
The fruit-stand dealers were selling only about one-third to one-half
the quantity of fruit handled in former seasons. The pushcart and wagon
peddlers as a rule buy packed or loose fruit cheap and go direct to the
homes of the residents, selling at prices considerably below the
fruit-stand men. The peddlers handle a large quantity, make quick cash
sales, and pay no rents. Other dealers incur heavy operating expenses
and generally sell not for the purpose of moving a large quantity, but
for the highest price obtainable. Consequently, the movement is
restricted.
The largest profits were found usually in barreled apples. For instance,
New York B grade, two inches minimum, approximately 600 apples to the
barrel, sold for a cent each or $6 per barrel. These apples cost the
retail dealer not over $2 per barrel delivered to his store, allowance
being made for jobber's profit and drayage. The investigator saw "A
grade" fruit, 2-1/2 inches minimum, averaging about 400 apples per
barrel, which cost the retailer not over $3, being displayed for sale at
two for five cents, or $11.25 per barrel. Such prices prevailed at no
less than twenty-five retail stores visited in one day. Apples were
being offered for sale at retail all over New York City at prices
ranging from one cent each at the cheap corner fruit stands, to fifty
cents and eighty cents per dozen at the fanciest fruit stores.
In general, it may be said that the gross profits of fruit-stand vendors
range from 100 to 250 per cent. Operating expenses other than rent in
most cities except New York are not relatively high and all sales are on
a strictly cash basis; hence the net profits on good fruit are large.
Grocers catering to high-class trade buy only the best apples. Extra
fancy Jonathans, Grimes, etc., preferably 138's and 150's size, were
purchased at $1 to $1.25 per box. These apples were taken from the box
and repacked in small splint trays similar to the peach basket used in a
six-basket carrier. Each box of apples filled approximately ten trays.
Each tray sold for thirty cents; hence the box brought $3, representing
a gross profit of about $1.75. Extra fancy Delicious and Winter Banana,
72's size, purchased at $2 per box, retailed at five cents each, or
$3.60 per box. Other sizes and varieties brought corresponding prices.
No attempt was made by this class of grocers to stimulate consumption by
temporarily reducing prices.
The retail prices quoted above were maintained consistently throughout
the 1914 season, regardless of prevailing jobbing prices. The large
margins charged by the retailers, for the most part, were due apparently
to the small amount of business handled, the perishable nature of the
commodity, and the cost of operation.
An elaborate and efficient delivery service must be maintained by the
grocers, and many small deliveries are made each day at an actual loss
to the dealer. A large proportion of the grocery-store patrons buy on
credit and pay when it becomes convenient. Many of these accounts are
never paid. Hence it becomes apparent that the good customer who pays
his bill regularly each week, or who pays cash, must suffer for the
shortcomings of others. However, there can be little doubt that reducing
prices would materially increase consumption and in the end result in
equally good profits for the dealers. Reduced prices and better business
practice should prove to be very beneficial to grower, dealer and
consumer.
The profits derived from the sale of cheaper grades of apples to the
poorer class of consumers are not so large. It was learned that those
catering to such trade operated on a margin of 75 to 100 per cent. of
the purchase price.
Raspberries.
F. C. ERKEL, FRUIT GROWER, ROCKFORD.
Raspberries are so easily grown it is surprising we do not find more
farmers and back lot gardeners in the city giving them attention. I
believe more people would raise raspberries if they could be made to
realize what great returns they would receive for a little work and
care. As a commercial proposition raspberries are the poor man's friend,
yielding large returns with very small investment and requiring but
little land.
I will attempt to give a few essentials in raspberry culture without
going into detail, with the hopes that at least a few more patches of
raspberries may be planted as a result of my effort. With the main
points of raspberry culture given, there is no reason why any one with
ordinary intelligence can not solve the details and meet with success.
Raspberries have a little advantage over strawberries with the man who
is not greatly enthused over small fruit culture. When once established
the plantings do not have to be renewed annually but with ordinary care
will last several years, in fact they will stand more Junegrass sod and
weeds and general neglect and still produce results than anything else I
know of unless it is apple trees.
Another point in favor of raspberries over strawberries is that it is
not quite so hard on the back to pick them, and when large quantities
are grown it is easier to get pickers.
Red raspberries will succeed on most any kind of soil so long as it is
kept reasonably well fertilized and supplied with humus. They prefer a
moist loam, and a northern slope is preferable to a southern slope
because not so quickly affected by drought. Good drainage is necessary,
and if planted on low ground where water is liable to stand at any time
the ground should be tiled or otherwise drained.
Raspberries may be planted either in the fall or spring, or the plants
may be dug in the fall, heeled in outside, covered with mulch, or they
may be stored in the cellar and planted in spring.
Plants bought from a nursery in the spring should be unpacked
immediately on arrival, the roots dipped in thin mud, then heeled in
until permanently planted, even if the delay is but a day or two.
The tops of the plants should be cut, leaving but a few inches, and if
any blossoms appear the first season it would be better to remove them
to prevent fruiting. It would be expecting too much of a newly
transplanted plant to make much of any growth and produce fruit the same
season. If allowed to fruit the first season but little fruit could be
expected at best, and it would leave the plant dwarfed if indeed it were
not killed outright.
The suckers that come up the first season will produce the next season's
crop, after which they die down and should be removed, other suckers
taking their places annually. Not over two or three suckers should be
allowed to each plant the first year; after the first year leave five to
eight in each hill, depending on the kind of soil, fertility, etc.
When plants are cheap and plentiful it is customary to use two in each
hill to insure a good stand the first year, but it is reasonable to
expect, however, where there are two root systems in each hill instead
of one that in after years there would be more troublesome suckers to
remove than if there was but one root in each hill, and this is no small
matter with some varieties.
To obtain planting stock large clusters of roots may be divided to
propagate from, but these usually have but few fibrous roots and are not
as good as first year's growth suckers, springing from roots near the
parent plant. Red raspberries may also be propagated from root cuttings
or even from seeds, the latter not coming true to variety, however.
Plantings should preferably be made on ground plowed the fall previous,
but spring plowed ground will answer if thoroughly disced, harrowed and
planked and then repeated, to make the ground firm.
If the ground is poor add a liberal dressing of well decayed barnyard
dressing before plowing, or if not well decayed wait until after
planting to apply the manure. Future cultivations will mix the dressing
with the surface soil where the roots will be able to reach it, since
raspberry plants are close surface feeders, and for this reason all
cultivations should be shallow after the root system has formed.
When the matted row system of planting is adopted, the late Prof. Green
advised using a heavy mulch for two feet on each side of the rows to
preserve moisture and discourage weed growth close to the plants,
cultivating only a strip through the middle.
Raspberries may be planted in rows five or six feet apart to allow
cultivation both ways, or in rows seven feet apart with plants two or
three feet apart in the rows with the idea of allowing a matted row and
cultivating but one way after the first season.
The matted row is hardly to be recommended unless one is willing to use
a hoe rather freely to keep the plants free from weeds where the
cultivator can not reach them, or unless he can provide a good, deep
mulch to discourage weed growth.
Rows should preferably run north and south, so the fruit will be shaded
during the middle of the day, but this is not absolutely necessary.
In setting the plants place them just a little deeper than they grew
originally, carry them to the field in pails of water or thin mud,
avoiding exposure of the roots to the air unprotected, but do not use
water in the holes unless the ground is extremely dry. Firm the ground
well close to the plant, and cultivate between rows all summer to
preserve moisture, whether weeds are troublesome or not, up to September
1st and be sure to cultivate shallow after the roots begin to occupy the
ground.
Hills that grow exceedingly tall and rank may be cut back to about two
and a half feet in height in the spring, or if one is willing to take
the trouble to pinch off the end of the plants at this height during the
growing season they will get bushy plants better able to hold up a load
of fruit--besides cutting back has a tendency to produce larger fruit.
We only grow two varieties of red raspberries, both of which are
perfectly hardy without winter covering, so we have no suggestions to
make or experiences to relate regarding winter protection. I am afraid I
would be tempted to quit the business if I had to cover our raspberry
bushes for winter protection. I think it would be as big a task as all
the rest of the work combined except picking, and I let some one else do
that part.
For a home garden it is even more desirable to select a variety that is
hardy without winter covering than when grown in a commercial way, for
this is one of the tasks that is liable to be neglected unless one makes
a business of it.
In choosing a variety the other qualities to look for besides hardiness
without winter covering are size, color, flavor, prolificacy and good
shipping qualities.
We are located only twenty-five miles northwest of Minneapolis, and one
would naturally suppose we would market our berries there, but we get
better prices in towns along the Soo railroad in western Minnesota and
the Dakotas.
Although our berries are a variety that crumble unless left on the
bushes until ripe they do not spoil readily, which is probably due to
the fact they are quite acid, and we ship to points in North Dakota
nearly as far west as Chicago is east of us with very little loss.
Wherever our berries have been introduced they have made friends, and
there is hardly ever a time that we do not have standing orders for two
or three times as many berries as we can furnish.
We usually ship in flat cases, two boxes deep, twenty-four pints to a
crate, which brought us $2.00, $2.25 and $2.50 per crate net, f.o.b.
shipping point.
There is but one other berry grower near us, so we do not have much
difficulty in getting pickers. The first year we built a couple of small
cottages to accommodate people from the city who might care to combine
berry picking with a few days' outing, and it was surprising what a good
class this proposition appealed to, but we now have enough local pickers
to care for our crop.
The profits in raspberry culture vary all the way from little or nothing
above cost of production up to several hundred dollars per acre,
depending on the season and how well cared for.
Whether raspberry culture is a money making proposition or not in a
commercial way, there certainly is no good reason why every farm or city
garden should not have at least a few hills of raspberries for home use.
Even leaving the matter of cost out of the question, there is a
difference between fruit just off the bushes and that which has stood
around in hot, dusty places several hours or longer waiting for a
purchaser. Try it and be convinced!
* * * * *
TO INOCULATE SEED.--Coating the seed of legumes with inoculated
soil before planting is a simple method of insuring soil inoculation at
slight cost. County agents in Illinois have found ordinary furniture
glue effective in holding particles of inoculated soil to the seeds.
This method gives each individual seed some of the particles of
inoculated soil, which it carries with it when it is planted. The scheme
requires but a small amount of inoculated soil and costs but a few cents
an acre. The method is described in Farmers' Bulletin 704 of the U.S.
Department of Agriculture.
Dissolve two handfuls of furniture glue for every gallon of boiling
water and allow the solution to cool. Put the seed in a washtub and then
sprinkle enough of the solution on the seed to moisten but not to wet it
(one quart per bushel is sufficient) and stir the mixture thoroughly
until all the seed are moistened.
Secure the inoculated soil from a place where the same kind of plants as
the seed are growing, making sure that the roots have a vigorous
development of nodules. Dry the soil in the shade, preferably in the
barn or basement, and pulverize it thoroughly into a dust. Scatter this
dust over the moistened seed, using from one half to one gallon of dirt
for each bushel of seed, mixing thoroughly until the seed no longer
stick together. The seed are then ready to sow.
The Flower Garden.
(AN EXERCISE LED BY G. C. HAWKINS, FLORIST, MINNEAPOLIS, AT THE 1915
ANNUAL MEETING.)
Mr. Hawkins: We have a question box and I would be glad to have any one
use it or rise and state their question. I will answer, giving my
experience.
The first question I will read is--"What would you advise about covering
in the garden in a season like this?" There are now two questions to be
answered. First, what kind of covering? Second, how much?
The first question can be answered this way. Every garden is benefited
by a good covering of well decayed manure. Second. Any light covering of
straw or horse manure with plenty of straw in it is very good. Leaves
make a good covering if they can be kept dry, but leaves when not
covered get wet, pack down over a plant and too often do more damage
than good. The advantage of covering, or mulching, is to prevent thawing
and freezing. To keep plants frozen from fall until spring would be
ideal. The ideal winter is one when the snow falls early and stays on
during the winter. We should cover lightly the plants that need
protection, and when the snow falls, as a warm blanket, the plants will
come through the winter in perfect shape.
Mr. Hawkins: We have a question box and would be glad to have any one
use it, or rise and ask your question, and we will endeavor to answer it
and give our experience along that line.
Mr. Horton: What would you advise for plants that are infected with
aphis?
Mr. Hawkins: Spraying is one of the best things and for that we use a
weak tobacco solution, so as to moisten the plants, a light mist will do
the work. I want to tell a little experience in growing peonies. Last
year I tried the experiment of using ground bone around them, which is
one of the best fertilizers we have. It contains nearly all the elements
of a perfect fertilizer. Just as soon as the little joints come out of
the ground, dig a trench about three inches from the main bush, about
two inches deep and fill with ground bone and watch the result. I
carried this plan out with wonderful success, getting 350 perfect
blossoms on twenty-five bushes. It takes bone about thirty days to
commence to dissolve. The day of the automobile has brought need for a
new fertilizer, and we must carefully select the best that can be had.
We must turn back again to the green crops and the artificial
fertilizers. This also works well with roses.
Mr. Reckstrom: Would bone do that was bought for the chickens?
Mr. Hawkins: Yes. You understand the finer the particles the quicker it
commences to dissolve.
A Member: Where can ground bone be obtained?
Mr. Hawkins: All first class seedsmen have it from small packages of ten
pounds to 100 pound sacks.
Mr. Bell: I tried hardwood ashes, and that seemed to be the best thing I
struck. There were some shrub lilacs that didn't blossom. One winter I
just put the ashes right on, probably a bushel around the one large
bush. After that I had plenty of blossoms. On peonies and roses the
result seems to be very good.
[Illustration: Residence of G. C. Hawkins, 2913 Fremont Avenue South,
Minneapolis.]
Mr. Hawkins: No question but what ashes are very fine, for the simple
reason the potash in hardwood ashes is a very good fertilizer. I would
like to ask some one to give his experience in regard to rust on the
tiger lily and the phlox. The perennial phlox is one of the most
beautiful flowers we have, and there has been considerable trouble this
year with a rust which takes all the leaves off the stalk and is
injurious to the blossoms. I did not find any successful remedy for it,
and I would be very glad if some member would give his experience.
Mrs. Sawyer: I think you will find bordeaux mixture is good as anything
for the rust on phlox. There is another mixture given for use in the
English gardens, but their conditions are not the same as ours. It seems
that changing the location of the phlox may do it good. Phlox is a plant
that wants free circulation of air. Sometimes they get crowded in the
garden, and a combination of heat and moisture produces the rust. By
changing them to some other ground sometimes it entirely disappears.
Mr. Hawkins: Mrs. Sawyer thinks this would be a remedy, as they require
a circulation of fresh air and keep down moisture. We know this, phlox
should be divided every third year. If you lift some you will find in
the middle a woody dry substance absolutely detrimental to a large,
healthy growing phlox. If you take off the little plants that come at
the outside of this and replant them you will find your flowers will be
much larger the next year. If we leave bunches of phlox in the same
place successive years they become small. If you separate them it will
add vigor to your plant, and the flowers will do better. I would like to
ask what success you have had with growing tritoma, the flame flower?
Have you had any difficulty in raising them?
Mrs. Tillotson: I have one blossom that seemed to take such a long time
to get above the ground I wondered what was the matter with it.
Mr. Hawkins: Mrs. Gould, can you give us any enlightenment?
Mrs. Gould: I never raised them, I got some bulbs this year. I know you
have to take them up in the winter and store them like gladiolus, and
they do not require very heavy soil.
Mrs. Countryman: Will yucca filamentosa ever blossom in a garden in St.
Paul?
Mrs. Sawyer: It will, but it doesn't always. It does blossom in
Minnesota, but I know that people have a great deal of difficulty
getting blossoms.
Mrs. Countryman: I have five plants growing four years and have never
seen a blossom yet.
Mr. Hawkins: I have had two growing three years, and I never have seen
the color of a blossom yet.
A Member: What kind is that?
Mr. Hawkins: It is the yucca filamentosa. It is an evergreen. It should
throw up a tall stalk with large branches and plenty of white flowers, I
think hundreds of flowers--that is the description. It is a beautiful
thing in the garden anyway.
Mrs. Countryman: I have seen them in blossom in California.
Mr. Richardson: I have seen them blossom many times in Winnebago.
Mrs. Countryman: Give us the culture instructions.
Mr. Richardson: I grew in nursery rows some odd stuff, had the same
culture that the nursery had. But when it blossomed one year I have been
told on good authority it would be five years before that stalk would
blossom again, only blossoms once in five years, but by having many
stalks they don't all blossom at the same time. I have had them two or
three years in succession but not on the same stalk.
Mrs. Countryman: Do you cover them winters?
Mr. Richardson: Never.
Mr. Hawkins: I think the only reason why the yucca filamentosa doesn't
do well is because it is a plant of the southwest and grows in a warmer
climate.
Mrs. Sawyer: I had a varied experience in growing those plants, and I
took a great deal of pains to learn all I could from different sources
and different people, and I believe our trouble is our late frosts, I
think that is conceded by people who have really gone into the question
thoroughly. Our late frosts injure them more than anything else. A
little protection in the spring is what they need more than protection
in winter, and we know that they don't want a wet place.
Mr. Hawkins: I want to recommend a flower that should be very popular.
It is perfectly hardy, blossoms for years, the hardy pyrethrum. It is a
daisy-like flower, absolutely free from insects and a sure bloomer. We
have plants in the garden that have bloomed six years. It comes in many
shades, from white to deep crimson, blooms from the 15th of May to the
1st of July and makes a beautiful showing. In regard to iris, did any
one have any trouble with their iris coming a little ahead of time last
year and being frozen?
Mrs. Sawyer: I guess they all froze off. I don't think it was because
they were ahead of time; it was because of the frost.
Mr. Hawkins: What would you recommend?
Mrs. Sawyer: I don't think there is anything to do in weather like last
spring, you can't cover anything away from a hard black frost like that
was.
[Illustration: G. C. Hawkins, of Minneapolis.]
Mr. Hawkins: We have several hundred plants on a southern slope, and I
thought perhaps the sun beating against the southern slope is what
started them earlier.
Mrs. Sawyer: Ours weren't on a southern slope, pretty near level, rather
north than anything else, and they got frozen.
A Member: What causes the rot in the iris?
Mr. Hawkins: That depends upon the kind of iris. With the bulbous rooted
iris, the bulb is filled full of water during the heavy rains, and if
you add more water to it it simply decays. The Siberian and many of the
fibrous rooted iris will stand a great deal of water.
A Member: Does the German?
Mr. Hawkins: The German is a bulbous root. As I said, it takes all the
moisture it needs. That is one reason why iris never wilts down in a dry
spell. It always looks fresh and green.
A Member: I would like to say it is well not to plant the iris deep. The
natural iris will lie almost on top of the ground, and they like to have
the sun beat down on them. The iris likes to bask in the sun.
Mr. Hawkins: This would prove to you that the bulb takes enough water to
support it and doesn't need any more because it rests on the top and
basks in the sun. Has any one tried anything new in the garden that will
stand our climate?
Mrs. Norton: I would suggest that hardy alum-root, or heuchera. It is a
perfectly hardy perennial, can stand our worst winters without any
covering, and it grows about so high from the ground (indicating two or
three feet), with its geranium-like leaves, and the flower grows about
three feet high, all covered with pink bells on the stems. It is a very
decorative plant and perfectly hardy. I think it has been much neglected
in the Northwest because it is so perfectly hardy and it increases very
rapidly. I have over one hundred.
Mr. Hawkins: I would like Mrs. Gibbs to say a word.
Mrs. Gibbs: The only thing I can say is that I enjoy being around among
other people's gardens. I think that is one of the best places to find
out things that we want; so many times we buy something that sounds
well, but when we have it planted it doesn't look as well. I think one
of the best ways is to visit gardens and especially those that use
labels.
A Member: I would like to ask about the trollius.
Mr. Hawkins: Has any one had experience in raising trollius?
Mrs. Gould: I have had experience in not raising them. I planted three
years, and after getting the seeds from all the seedsmen I discovered in
a book on plants that the seed would have to be in the ground two years
in order to germinate. I didn't know that and left them in only a few
months. I think the only way is to buy the plants. It is a very
beautiful plant, yellow and shaped like golden glow, belongs to the same
family as the buttercup.
A Member: I would like to ask about the hollyhocks. I saw such beautiful
hollyhocks around Lake Minnetonka and I have never been able to make
them winter. I would like to ask about that.
Mr. Hawkins: We have three plants, hollyhocks, digitalis and canterbury
bells, and nearly all have the same trouble with them. If we mulch them
we are liable to have the center decay and the plants practically
useless. It is a question of mulching them too much or not mulching
them. I would like to have you speak up and tell us your experience. I
have in mind a gentleman who raises splendid hollyhocks in the
neighborhood of the lakes. Takes no care of them, and yet he had one
this year seventeen feet high, which took care of itself and had any
amount of blossoms. I tried that experiment several years myself of
mulching them, and the crown rotted. These are three of the best flowers
of the garden, and we ought to have some certain way of keeping them.
A Member: Have you ever tried mulching them with corn stalks?
Mr. Hawkins: Yes, I have tried it but lost them.
A Member: I had very good luck with them that way.
A Member: It is more a question of drainage than of mulching.
Mr. Hawkins: That might be.
Mrs. Gould: I wish simply to say that the trouble with winter grown
hollyhocks and canterbury bells is that they will head so tall and must
be kept dry. I always cover the hollyhocks and if I had the others I
think I would cover them. I uncover mine early in the spring, and if it
gets cold put on a little more straw. You are almost sure to uncover
them the wrong time. With foxgloves I think it is almost unnecessary to
cover them.
Mr. Hawkins: In our gardens the hollyhocks form one of the best
backgrounds we can have, beautiful, tall, stately stalks, and the
canterbury bells, certainly nothing more beautiful than they. Then we
come to the other, the digitalis, which is equally as beautiful. We must
give our attention to the protection and growth of these in years to
come because they are three of the beautiful things of the garden. It
has been suggested that digitalis be potted and put inside the cold
frame and leaves put over them. I think leaves are a splendid protection
if you can keep them dry. If I were using them as a mulch I would keep
out the water by covering with roofing paper to keep them dry.
Mrs. Countryman: I am told on good authority that the hollyhock is a
true perennial and not a biennial.
Mrs. White: It is listed in the foreign catalogs as both a perennial and
a biennial.
Mrs. Countryman: Wouldn't the hollyhock come under the heading of being
perennial but not a permanent perennial?
Mr. Hawkins: It might be classed that way. There seems to be a
difference of opinion as to just what it is. I have known them to come
six or seven years in the same spot.
* * * * *
TIE TRAP FOR RABBITS.--An inexpensive and permanent sewer tile
trap for cottontail rabbits has proved very effective in Kansas. To make
the trap, proceed as follows:
"Set a 12 by 6-inch 'T' sewer tile with the long end downward, and bury
it so that the 6-inch opening at the side is below the surface of the
ground. Connect two lengths of 6-inch sewer pipe horizontally with the
side opening. Second grade or even broken tile will do. Cover the joints
with soil so as to exclude light. Provide a tight removable cover, such
as an old harrow disk, for the top of the large tile. The projecting end
of the small tile is then surrounded with rocks, brush, or wood, so as
to make the hole look inviting to rabbits and encourage them to frequent
the den. Rabbits, of course, are free to go in or out of these dens,
which should be constructed in promising spots on the farm and in the
orchard. A trained dog will locate inhabited dens. The outlet is closed
with a disk of wood on a stake, or the dog guards the opening. The cover
is lifted and the rabbits captured by hand.
"These traps are especially suitable for open lands and prairies, where
rabbits cannot find natural hiding places. They are permanent and cost
nothing for repairs from year to year. If it is desired to poison
rabbits, the baits may be placed inside these traps, out of the way of
domestic animals or birds. This trap also furnishes an excellent means
of obtaining rabbits for the table, or even for market."--U.S. Dept. of
Agri.
Blueberry Culture.
U.S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE.
Blueberries thrive best on soils which are so acid that they are usually
considered almost worthless for ordinary agricultural purposes.
Blueberry culture, therefore, offers possibilities of profit to
individual land-owners in districts in which the general conditions are
especially hard and unpromising. Blueberries can not be grown in
ordinary fertile soils.
Although frequently confused, especially in the South and in the Middle
West, blueberries and huckleberries are quite distinct. In New England
the name "huckleberry" is restricted to berries which contain 10 large
seeds with bony coverings like minute peach pits which crackle between
the teeth, while the name "blueberry" is applied to various species of
berries containing many but very small seeds. It is the latter, not the
large-seeded huckleberry, which offers possibilities for profitable
culture.
At the present stage of the blueberry industry it is best to begin by
transplanting the most promising wild bushes, selecting them for the
size, flavor, color and earliness of the berry as well as for the vigor
and productiveness of the bush. These plants can be propagated in
various ways, which are described in detail in a professional paper of
the department, Bulletin No. 334, by Frederick V. Coville. The aim of
the cultivator should be to secure bushes which will produce large
berries. These cost less to pick than small ones and bring a higher
price on the market. A berry eleven-sixteenths of an inch in diameter
has already been produced under field culture.
The three fundamental requirements for successful blueberry culture are:
(1) An acid soil, especially one composed of peat and sand; (2) good
drainage and thorough aeration of the surface soil; and (3) permanent
but moderate soil moisture. Next in importance to these essentials is a
location such that the berries may reach the market without delay. The
best prices are obtained about the beginning of the wild blueberry
season. The main crop of wild blueberries comes from northern New
England, Canada and northern Michigan. A location to the south of these
areas where the berries will mature earlier is, therefore, to be desired
for the commercial cultivator. One of the most promising districts now
known is the cranberry region of New Jersey, where berries mature early
and the shipping facilities to the market in Philadelphia, New York and
Boston are good.
Another important factor to be considered in selecting a location for a
blueberry patch is the possibility of late spring freezes. For this
reason the bottoms of valleys should be avoided. Freezing seldom injures
the blueberry plant itself, but the fruit crop is often destroyed in
this way. From past observations it appears that wild blueberries
growing in or around bodies of water frequently escape the injurious
effects of late spring freezes, and it seems, therefore, that a flooding
equipment for blueberry plantations similar to those used for cranberry
bogs may, under certain circumstances, prove commercially advantageous.
At the present time, however, only a beginning has been made in
blueberry culture. The yield and profits in field plantations from
improved bushes have not as yet been ascertained. There is, however, one
small planting in Indiana where complete records have been maintained
for the past six years. This plantation was started in 1889 in a natural
blueberry bog, which was first drained and then set with wild blueberry
bushes transplanted without selection for individual productiveness or
size of berries. On this plantation the yield per acre has averaged
1,741 quarts for the past six years. This average would have been
somewhat higher except for the almost total failure of the crop in 1910,
due to late spring freezes. An average of 14-1/2 cents a quart has been
received for the berries and the net profit per acre is estimated at
$116 a year. In this estimate allowance has been made for interest,
taxes and depreciation. The expense for weeding, cultivation, and
irrigation is placed at $20 an acre and the cost of picking at five
cents a quart.
* * * * *
HOMEMADE FIRELESS COOKER.--A wooden or tin pail, lined with two
thicknesses of paper and provided with a close-fitting cover, may be
used for the outside container of the cooker. Allow for three inches of
packing on all sides and at the bottom of the pail. A gallon oyster can
will serve very well for the nest, which should be wrapped on the
outside next to the packing with asbestos and a piece of asbestos placed
under the bottom to prevent the scorching of the packing when hot
soapstones are used. Shredded newspaper and excelsior make a good
packing. Pack this very tightly around and to the top of the nest, the
top of which should be about three inches below the lid of the outside
container. A piece of cardboard cut to fit inside the lard can with a
circle cut out of the center around the top of the oyster can or nest
will hide the packing and make a neat finish. Place a three-inch cushion
of unbleached muslin, stuffed tightly with excelsior, on top of the lid
of the nest. When the top of the outside container is placed on and
hooked down, it will be tight enough to cause a pressure. If a tin pail
is used for the outside container, it may be enameled white, or a wooden
pail stained brown, making a neat-looking appliance for any kitchen.
Regular aluminum fireless-cooker utensils may be used for cooking the
food in the nest, but any kind of a vessel with a close-fitting top and
one that fits closely in the nest is suitable.--U.S. Dept. Agri.
Hardy Perennials.
MISS GRACE E. KIMBALL, WALTHAM.
There has been very little in my work with hardy perennials that seems
worth relating. For many years, in Austin, we had iris, peonies and
phlox in our garden. While my love for flowers and outdoor work led me
to spend all my time, outside of office hours, in the garden, the iris
and peonies, especially, never gave any trouble but grew and blossomed
in the most approved fashion. With the phlox we have had more trouble,
sometimes in dry seasons not getting the bloom we should, and finally,
the last year we were there, losing nearly all the roots we had. I am
now inclined to think that had we divided and transplanted them some
years before, we would not have lost them.
It was only a few years ago that I began to realize that herbaceous
perennials could, with success, be planted in the fall in our climate,
and it was not until two years ago that I made any attempt at fall
planting. That year I was quite successful, but last year, wishing to
divide as close as possible, especially with the iris, I evidently
overdid the matter, with the result that I lost many of my plants.
However, I learned my lesson, and this year they were not divided so
closely, and I am hoping that they will come through the winter all
right.
With the hardy perennials easily raised from seed my first experience
was with the oriental poppy. I had greatly desired to have some in the
garden and, not knowing that the fall was the time to plant them,
ordered some one spring. They failed to grow, so the next year I
attempted to raise them from seed, starting them in the house as I did
my pansy seed. But I was far from successful in that way, and having
read some articles on the difficulty of raising them from seed, also
learning that they should be set out in the fall, I made up my mind they
were not worth bothering with.
However, father suggested I might succeed by planting the seed in the
shade out of doors, and even though it was quite late in the summer I
got more seed and sowed it broadcast in a hedge of lilacs, syringas and
so forth, kept the ground moist, and in a short time had many plants
coming up. I also had ordered a few to be shipped me in the fall.
By fall my seedlings were large enough to be transplanted into boxes, to
be moved as we were moving from Austin to Waltham. With those I had
ordered for fall delivery, they were moved to our new place, the boxes
sunk in the ground, and the next spring put into a hedge with other
plants--for while they do not stand transportation very well in the
spring, I have been successful in transplanting them from one part of
our grounds to another at that season.
Since coming to Waltham I have started the seeds of the poppy, larkspur,
columbine and gaillardia in a grove near the house, where they are
easily kept moist. If I get the seed in early in the spring, the plants
are often large enough to transplant in the fall. However I like better
to plant the seed later, about the time the first blossoms from each
variety have ripened their seed. The seedlings will then be large enough
to withstand the winter with a little protection and ready for spring
transplanting.
With a comparatively small amount of work, and very ordinary care, once
the plants are set out anyone can have continuous bloom from early
spring until frosts come, by setting iris, peonies, phlox, columbine,
poppies, larkspur, gaillardia, giant daisy and painted daisy. Such a
selection would make a big variety of color and form in the garden, and
all but the first three kinds can be very easily raised from seed. Or
not wishing so many kinds, one can have flowers all summer by a careful
selection of several varieties of iris, peonies and phlox.
Why Should We Grow Seedling Apples?
ISAAC JOHNSON, WEST UNION, IA.
There is no work in fruit growing that has more taken my attention and
given me more pleasure than the growing of seedling apples. For many
years I have been of the opinion that apples for this severe climate
must be grown from seed. If we succeed in growing hardy, productive and
good keeping varieties, they must be native, or raised at home. By
experimental work along in this line of growing fruit we have come to
this conclusion that fruit trees do best grow at home.
In looking over the list of apples we grow this far north, we all know
that the hardiest and the most productive kind are seedlings, either
from Minnesota, Iowa or Wisconsin. Minnesota has the Wealthy, the banner
apple; for early and late fall apple it has no equal. Wisconsin has the
Northwestern Greening and the Wolf River, which are very large, showy
and good market apples. We all know what Mr. Patten has done along in
this line of growing seedlings.
At the state horticultural meeting in Des Moines, December last, was
exhibited one hundred varieties of seedlings and a large number of
those, to my judgment, were good keepers and fine looking apples.
Hundreds and hundreds of varieties of apples have been imported from
Russia, and I for one have tested fifty or sixty of those Russian
varieties, but at the state meeting, where I exhibited seventy-seven
varieties, I was able to show only three Russian varieties, Longfield,
Antinovka and Volga Cross. I think I have reason to ask what would we
have for apples today if there had not been any seedlings raised? Why
does the State of Minnesota offer one thousand dollars for a seedling
apple tree that is as hardy as the Duchess with fruit as good as the
Wealthy and that keeps as well as the Malinda? Because to get such a
variety it must come from seed.
Planting for Color Effects in the Garden.
MRS. H. B. TILLOTSON, MINNEAPOLIS.
The most attractive flower bed in my garden this year has been the one
planted for a blue and white effect. From earliest spring, soon after
the snow had gone, until now, October 4th, there has been something
interesting and beautiful blooming there.
In the middle of the summer it was one tangled mass of lilies,
delphinium, phlox and gypsophila, their perfume filling the whole
garden. As the lilies faded and the delphinium grew old and went to
seed, the old stalks were cut away. The phlox and delphinium bloomed
again in a little while, and in September the candidum lilies began to
come through the ground, getting ready for next year.
The bed is three feet wide by thirty long, and was covered last winter
with loose straw and leaves, with a few cornstalks to hold them in
place. Early in April this was raked off and the edges of the bed made
straight, for the grass always grows in a little each year. The warm
sunshine soon brought out the scilla and crocus, almost carpeting the
whole bed. One would not think of the other things hiding under their
leaves.
The forget-me-nots began to look green along the edge, and up through
the fading crocus and scilla came a few straggling grape hyacinths, blue
and white, and one lonely plant of the Virginia cowslip
(Mertensia)--more could have been used with good effect, for they too
disappear after awhile.
The Virginia cowslip staid in bloom until the forget-me-nots were a
mass of blossoms, and the blue Darwin tulips (pink, really, with a blue
spot in the bottom of the cup, just back of them) were in all their
glory. In the middle of the bed the Madonna lilies, and belladona
delphinium had covered the ground with green. In spots the wild violets
were in blossom--they had crept in some way from the dirt--I think it
had been taken from the woods near by.
Watching each day, for the friends I knew would soon be coming, I found
the first shoots of the hardy phlox, which I knew to be G. Von Losburg
and Miss Lingard. Double blue bachelor buttons, self sown, were there,
some transplanted to fill in the bare spots, and poppies; I didn't know
what color they would be, for the wind and the birds had sown the seed;
but the leaves were a beautiful grey-green, and I let them grow. I had
almost given up the double baby breath (gypsophila paniculata, fl. pl.),
but finally it came all the way down the bed, about every five or six
feet, between the delphinium and the phlox. There were perhaps a dozen
plants of phlox, a dozen of belladona delphinium and six baby breath
through the middle of the bed, and on each side a row of the intense
blue Chinese delphinium.
Just outside these, and next to the forget-me-nots and tulips, are the
bachelor buttons, and, coming through it all, a hundred candidum lilies,
their waxy white blossoms glistening in the sunshine, and the perfume so
heavy you knew they were there long before you could see them. The
poppies, too, were there; they were double, like a peony, rose-pink with
a white edge. I was glad I let them grow, for I don't think I ever saw a
more beautiful sight.
I let it all grow and bloom as long as it would, hating to touch it for
fear of spoiling all. Finally I was obliged to clear away the old
stalks, and it looked rather bare for a time. But I brought some white
asters from the reserve garden. The Baron Hulot gladoli were soon in
bloom. The phlox sent up tiny shoots for new bloom from the base of each
leaf, and the second crop of bachelor buttons came along. White
schizanthus along the edge, covered up the old forget-me-nots, and
funkia lilies (subcordata) threw up their buds. The delphinium all began
to bloom again, the grey-green leaves of the baby breath was still
there, and soon my bed was all abloom again and staid so the rest of the
summer.
But never did it equal the glory of those first ten days of July.
The Fall-Bearing Strawberries.
CHARLES F. GARDNER, NURSERYMAN, OSAGE, IA.
(SO. MINN. HORT. SOCIETY.)
There are now such excellent varieties of fall bearing strawberries on
the market that a person can have no good excuse for not planting some
in his garden. Select the ground for the bed where you will get the
whole benefit from the rays of the sun. I want no trees, bushes, or tall
growing plants of any kind near the bed. The farther away, the better.
The earth should be made quite rich with well rotted compost. I like the
plan of preparing the bed a long time before you get ready to set your
plants. You can then work the soil over, time after time, and every time
kill a crop of weeds. More plants are set in the spring than any other
time, but they will grow and do well if set in midsummer or any time
after that up to the middle of October. Get through setting in September
if you can. If you set later, in October, cover the plants with a slight
covering of straw as soon as planted. Then afterwards, when you make a
business of covering put on a little more, cover them nicely--but you
are liable to kill them if you put on too much. Two inches deep I find
to be about the right depth to go through our ordinary winters. I mean
two inches after the straw has settled. I think many persons spoil their
plants, or at least injure them severely, by putting on too heavy a coat
of covering. I will also tell you to beware of using horse-manure as a
covering for strawberries. Clean straw or hay is the best of covering.
(Fall planting of strawberries not advisable in Minnesota.--Secy.)
Most people do not trim the plants enough before they are set. All fruit
stems should be cut off, if there are any, and the most of the old
leaves removed, two or three of the youngest leaves on the plant is all
that should be left. These will start right off into a vigorous growth,
and you will soon have strong, healthy plants. I think it pays to put a
small handful of tobacco dust on and around each hill. You can generally
get it at your nearest greenhouse--or you can find out there where to
send for it. Get enough to put it on two or three times during the early
and latter part of summer.
Do not select ground for your new bed that has been in strawberries;
take ground that has never had strawberries on, or at least that two or
three crops of some kind have been taken from it since it was covered
with strawberry vines.
After the plants are set, they should be well firmed; it is absolutely
necessary that they should be very solid in the earth. They should not
be too deep nor too shallow, one is as bad as the other. The crown buds
should be in plain sight, after the ground is firmed and leveled, just
in sight and no more. A little temporary hilling will do no harm, but
the ground should be kept as level as possible. All cultivation should
be shallow so as to not disturb the roots of the plants. This is also a
very important item. Just remember that every plant loosened after it is
set means death to the plant if it is not reset at once. Cultivate often
when the ground is not too wet. Keep your bed entirely free of grass and
weeds. This is easily done if all work is done when it should be. The
time to kill weeds is when the seed first sprouts; don't wait until the
weed plants are an inch or more high; if you do you will never keep them
clean, and then you will never have success in your work.
[Illustration: Chas. F. Gardner at work in his everbearing strawberry
experiment grounds.]
Cut all fruit stems off as fast as they appear, until your plants get
well rooted, and then let them bear as much as they want to. But if some
plants set an unusually large number it is well to cut out part of the
fruit. If rightly thinned you will increase the yield in quarts.
If fruit is the main object, after the plants are well located and begin
to set fruit for your main crop, they can be mulched with clean straw or
hay, carefully tucked up around each hill. This will keep the fruit
clean and conserve the moisture in the soil, and you can stop
cultivating. If plants are the main object, then you can not use the
mulching, but must keep the cultivator going between the rows. Well
informed growers of the strawberry plant generally have beds on purpose
for fruit in one place, and in another place one to grow plants.
No one will make a success in growing strawberries unless he can learn
to detect the rogues that appear from time to time in strawberry patches
or in the fields. These rogues are generally plants that have come up
from the seed that has been scattered in one way and another over the
bed. Berries are stepped on and mashed, other berries are overlooked and
rot on the ground, but the seed remain and germinate when the time comes
for it in the spring, and some of these plants are not destroyed by
cultivation or by hoeing, and soon make trouble for the grower. No
seedling will be like the original plants that were first set, and many
of them will be strong growing plants, good runners but worthless for
fruit. When you set a new lot of plants you get some of these seedlings,
and that is how the mixture comes in. I have counted one hundred and
fifty seedling plants around one old plant in the spring. Of course the
most of these where good tillage is practised are destroyed, but some
remain in spite of all you can do unless you pay the very closest
attention and learn to distinguish rogues from the true named varieties.
All rogues must be kept out if you keep the variety true to name. Of
course once in a while a rogue will prove to be a valuable variety, as
was the case when Mr. Cooper found the Pan American eighteen years ago,
from which our fall varieties owe their parentage. If you want to be
successful remember to keep in mind the value of constant selection and
keeping your parent stock true to name.
When you first set out your plants, go over them and examine them
closely and see that everything is right. Then remember that the first
sign of a good fall bearing variety is to see it throw out fruit stalks.
You can cut these off, so that the stub of the fruit stem will show that
it has sent up a flower stalk. You can see the stub. In this way in a
small patch you can easily keep track of them. If some plants do not
throw out fruit stems, mark them so you can tell them, and if they pass
the season without trying to fruit, you must refrain from setting out
any of the runners that appear, or there is liability of trouble. Let
such plants alone for another year's trial. Then if they do no better,
dig them up and destroy them. Once in a while they prove to be all
right, but often they are worthless.
Learn to tell a variety by a careful examination of the plant at
different times during the season. Fix the general color of the leaf in
your mind, its shape and size. Notice whether the fruit stems are long
or short, whether the blossoms are above the leaves, in plain sight, or
are hidden below. Are there many fruit buds to the stalk, or but few?
Are the blossoms pistillate or staminate? Are the petals large or small?
Are the stamens long or short? Are the anthers well or poorly formed?
They should be plump and well filled before they are ready to open.
Is the receptacle on which the pistils sit well formed and capable of
being developed into a perfect berry, or do they look ungainly in shape?
Are the petals pure white or slightly crimson? Are there many runners,
or few, or none? Do the new runners bear blossoms and fruit? If so, when
do they commence to bud and bloom? When do the berries begin to ripen?
Notice the size and shape of the fruit, also the color. You can tell
much from the taste of the berry. No two varieties taste exactly alike.
Some are real sweet and some kinds real sour. Then there are all grades
between.
The perfume, or fragrance, of the fruit of the common strawberry when
fully ripened under proper conditions of sunlight and moisture has long
been esteemed and highly appreciated by mankind in general, and in this
respect the fall-bearing strawberry varies greatly. The most of the
varieties excel all common kinds as to perfume and that delicate
strawberry flavor which nearly everybody loves so well. Once in a while
a musk-scented variety is developed, like the Milo on our grounds, which
as yet has never been sent out. By paying close attention to these
things you can soon learn to distinguish many varieties at any time
during the growing season.
In 1898 Mr. Cooper found his seedling which he called the Pan American.
From that small beginning there are now many varieties, perhaps
thousands, that excel the parent plant, and perhaps a hundred varieties
of great value. Some varieties have very superior merit. I will mention
a few: Progressive, Peerless, Advance, Danville, Forward, Prince, Will,
Milo, Nathaniel, 480, and there are others which might be mentioned.
Good reports have reached me of kinds produced at your Horticultural
Experiment farm by Prof. Haralson, but I have never tried them. My
private opinion is that several kinds I have not mentioned will very
soon take a back seat, as the saying is. The best varieties are bound to
come to the front.
The best advertisement one can have is the ability to ship thousands of
quarts during the whole autumn. This season we shipped 22,565 quarts,
mostly sold in pint boxes. They netted us from 12-1/2 to 18 cents per
pint. At home we kept them on the market during the whole season at 15
cents per quart. We lost as many as 5,000 quarts by violent storms
during the season. It was a fair season for growing plants, but there
was too much water to grow the best of fruit.
Heredity in Gladioli.
G. D. BLACK, GLADIOLUS SPECIALIST, INDEPENDENCE, IA.
(SO. MINN. HORT. SOCIETY.)
As heredity is a comparatively new word, it may be well to define it at
the beginning of this paper. Webster says "It is the transmission of
mental or physical characteristics or qualities from parent to
offspring, the tendency of an organism to reproduce the characteristics
of the progenitor."
Most of the species of gladioli are native in the temperate zone of
Southern Africa, where they have grown for so long a time that they will
reproduce themselves in a marked degree from seeds.
Some have grown in the moist soils of the valleys for so many
generations that they have become adapted to these conditions and will
not thrive on the elevated plateaus and mountain slopes. Those which are
native in the higher and cooler altitudes will not grow well in the
lower lands.
A species or variety becomes acclimated when it is grown in one locality
for several successive generations, because it is one of nature's laws
that it takes on new characteristics that improve it for existence
there. These characters are changing more or less during each generation
on account of environment.
We can not aid nature in strengthening and improving the desirable
qualities unless we follow nature's laws. By crossing two varieties that
have certain desirable characters in common we may be able to make these
characteristics more dominant.
Much of the crossbreeding of the gladiolus has been done in such an
unscientific manner that it is surprising that so much improvement has
been made. This improvement is mostly the result of extra care and
cultivation, and the selection of the best each generation. In order to
retain the benefit of any extra care and cultivation it has to pass on
as a heritage to the succeeding generation and is there incorporated
among its characteristics. Each generation should be an advance toward
the desired ideal.
There is no doubt in my mind that the ruffling and doubling of the
petals in flowers that have been under cultivation for several
generations is caused by the extra feeding and care that they have
received.
Most species of gladioli in their wild state are small and lacking in
beauty. Abnormal or freak varieties should not be selected as the best
for breeding, because they are usually the result of a violent cross,
and are nearly always weak as propagators and sometimes entirely
sterile.
Princeps has a very large flower, but the spike is short and only two or
three blooms are open at one time. It was originated by Dr. Van Fleet by
crossing Mrs. Beecher and Cruentus. Burbank crossed Princeps and
America, and quite a number of the seedlings show the markings of Mrs.
Beecher, one of their grandparents, but with shorter spikes. In this
cross Princeps transmits the undesirable character of short spikes but
leaves out the abnormal size of flower, and the best characters of
America are lacking. The parentage of America is very much in doubt, as
three prominent gladiolus breeders claim the honor of originating it.
There are many characteristics to be considered when making selections
for breeding besides the color and size of the flower. The bulbs of some
varieties will stand considerable freezing while other varieties will
not. This same characteristic is noticed in the foliage. The severe
frost that killed our corn crop on August 30th so impaired Panama,
Hiawatha and some others that very few blooms of these varieties opened
afterwards. The foliage of some varieties remained green after a
temperature of twelve degrees below freezing.
A representative of a Holland bulb growing firm who called on me a few
days ago says that Niagara is a very weak grower in Holland and Panama
is a very vigorous grower. My experience with these varieties is just
the reverse. This seems to show that sometimes the difference in climate
may cause certain characters in the plant to act differently--if the
Hollander is not mistaken.
A few varieties are sometimes subject to blight and rust. Some are only
slightly affected, and many others are entirely blight proof.
There are so many characteristics to be considered by the scientific
breeder that it is almost impossible to enumerate them all in this
paper.
There is yet a great work to be done in breeding out the undesirable
traits and incorporating the improvements which we desire.
Civic Improvement.
MRS. ALBERTSON, PRES. CIVIC IMPROVEMENT LEAGUE, AUSTIN.
This is a subject so broad and so closely connected with "The City
Beautiful" one can hardly find a starting point, but we might begin with
the one word--civic--which has drawn to itself many minds, much sober
thought and from some much hard work.
The fear was widespread that woman would work havoc if she attempted to
spell the task, but how needless, for the word civic can be spelled with
accuracy from whichever end approached.
What was the beginning of the civic league and the city beautiful? It
began at home, where most women's work begins. To have a beautiful home
one must have the right kind of house. To have the beautiful house to
make the beautiful home the setting must be made to correspond--so after
the house, the lawn; after the lawn, the boulevard. Then the work
spread. Streets needed cleaning, unsightly billboards had to be removed,
perhaps an adjoining vacant lot had a careless owner whose pride needed
pricking. So the need of a civic league grew, and now it has become a
vital spark in many cities all over the Union. Minnesota has over thirty
civic clubs doing specific work. Is it entirely the work for women? No.
Is it entirely the work for men? No. It is a work for both. It is a work
that is very contagious and a contagion that needs no quarantine.
Civic league work envelopes many lines of improvement. Streets and
alleys sometimes need to be reported to the proper committee of the city
council; the disposal of rubbish and garbage has confronted many civic
societies. There is nothing so conducive to unsanitary conditions and so
disfiguring to a beautiful street as glimpses and often broad views of
alleys and back yards that have become dump piles and garbage receivers.
Besides the effect on one's love for cleanliness and beauty, it breeds
disease--and so public sanitation was added to the civic league work.
In some cities the societies are taking up the work of smoke abatement.
I might say that we have a few offending chimneys in our own city
beautiful. Every member of the city council should be a member of the
civic league, for much more could be done by co-operation. There is
great need of the civic improvement league and park board working
together, for their aim is one--to make the city beautiful.
The work that gives the most beauty to the city after the good
foundation of cleanliness, public sanitation and removal of public
nuisances is that done in the parks. I am glad cities are making larger
appropriations for parks, and I hope our city will have more in the
future, for there are great possibilities of making our city not only a
city beautiful, but a most beautiful city. Parks should be well lighted,
playgrounds for children are almost a necessity, the river banks should
be kept clean--but most of all the natural beauties of a place must be
preserved and trees should be planted. Shade is needed as a good
background. There is nothing that will enhance a beautiful statue,
fountain or other park ornament like a setting of good trees.
If possible to have it there is no more attractive spot in a park than a
lily pool. The old idea of laying out parks according to some
geometrical pattern is giving way to the development of walk lines of
practical use, recognizing both traffic requirements and the
desirability of location for numerous park benches. What will lend more
charm to a park than a beautiful drive bordered with noble trees leading
up to some focal point or opening a way to some particular vista that
would otherwise be lost!
The park board should not limit its work to parks alone, but wherever
there is a spot, triangle corner or any other kind of available place,
there should be planted shrubs or flower beds. They soon become a public
pride and cheer many passersby. We have a number of bright spots in our
city, beginning in the spring with a beautiful bed of tulips. May
another year bring us many more! One forgets the mud and the
disagreeable days of spring in watching the bulbs thrust their little
pointed noses through the cold earth and the development of the buds
until they burst open into a blaze of color, flaunting their gorgeous
heads in a farewell to old winter and giving a cheery welcome to the
coming summer.
BEE-KEEPER'S COLUMN.
Conducted by FRANCIS JAGER, Professor of Apiculture, University
Farm, St. Paul.
If not already done the beekeeper should at once make his final
preparations towards a successful wintering of bees. There are several
conditions under which the bees winter well, all of which are more or
less understood. The chief of these are a strong colony of young bees,
sufficient amount of good stores, and the proper place to keep the bees.
Bees that were queenless late in the fall or bees that had an old queen
who stopped laying very early in the season, will have only few and old
bees for wintering and will not have vitality enough to survive. Such
colonies should be united with some other good colony or if too far gone
they should be destroyed. Weak colonies should be united until they are
strong enough to occupy and fill when clustered at least six frames.
The best stores to winter bees on is pure honey capped over. Honey dew
will kill the bees in winter. If you have any black honey in your hives
you had better remove it and replace with white honey. A ten frame hive
ready for winter ought to contain from 35 to 40 pounds of honey. A
complete hive if put on a scale should weigh not less than from 50 to 60
pounds. The best way to supply food to the bees is to remove the dry
combs and insert next to the cluster full combs of honey. Feeding sugar
is a dangerous undertaking, and it should not be resorted to unless
necessity compels one to do it, and then feeding should be done early in
the season to allow the bees to invert the sugar, cap it over and
consume such stores which are not capped over before winter. The hives
that winter best are those which contain no uncapped honey in the
frames.
For the bulk of beekeepers cellar wintering in Minnesota is to be
recommended. The things to be looked after in cellar wintering are:
first, that the temperature of the cellar does not go much below 45
degrees, at least not for any length of time. Second, that the entrances
are kept open and clear of dead bees and are guarded with four to the
inch wire screen against mice. Third, that the moisture generated by the
bees does not accumulate on the walls and covers of the hives. This is
most essential. Moisture absorbing material should be used in place of a
wooden cover, for instance flax board or gunnysacks, or a super filled
with shavings over a queen excluder. The bees must have free passage
over the top of the frames. We wintered the bees at University Farm
without loss by using nothing else but the one inch flax board on top of
the hive, which kept the hive positively dry all winter.
Your cellar should be dark, should have some ventilation, and the bees
should never be disturbed during their winter sleep. By following these
recommendations, you will be delighted to find your bees in the spring
in a most flourishing condition for next summer's work.
GARDEN HELPS
Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society
Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So.
Minneapolis.
After the frosts have killed the _dahlia_ foliage the tubers should be
dug and stored before the cold becomes so great. They may be injured by
it.
The stems should be cut to about three or four inches of the roots,
using a sharp knife, so as to make a clean cut. To the stems attach the
label firmly. Loosen the earth about each clump before attempting to
lift it, then run the spade or fork as far under it as possible and pry
it gently out. In this way the tubes will not be broken or injured where
they join the stem, which is the only place where they can make the next
season's growth. Most of the soil will drop off as they dry. Lay the
roots so that water will not have a chance to collect in the soft hollow
stems, or crown rot may trouble you.
A cool, dry shed is a good place in which to cure the roots. Lay them on
boards and turn them occasionally so they will dry evenly.
In a week's time they should be ready to store for winter, the best
place being a frost-proof cellar. Unless this is very dry, it is best to
have boards raised a few inches above the floor on which to lay them.
This will allow a current of air to pass under them. If a damp cellar
must be used, air slaked lime sprinkled under the boards will help to
keep them dry. Cover them a little with dry sand. The best temperature
is 40 degrees.
_Cannas_ can be lifted and stored at once. Cut the stems off short,
leaving enough to attach the labels to. They keep best if lifted with as
much soil about them as possible. The clumps can be set close together,
on boards arranged in the same way as for dahlias. They will stand a
slightly warmer temperature than dahlias.
_Tuberous begonias_, unlike dahlias and cannas, should be lifted without
cutting the stems. They should be cured in the sun for at least two
weeks and during that time turned to dry evenly and kept perfectly dry.
A cold frame is a good place in which to do this. When the stems part
readily from the bulbs, the latter can be packed in boxes and stored in
any dry place where the temperature will not fall below 40 degrees.
These are among the tenderest bulbs and should be the first to be
lifted.
_Gladioli_ should be lifted with their stems intact, tied in bundles and
hung in a dry shed to dry. When thoroughly dry, the stems can be cut off
and the bulbs packed in boxes and stored the same as the begonias. They
are especially sensitive to heat, and if the air is too dry the bulbs
will shrivel and lose much of their vitality.
_Montbretias_ should be lifted out and stored in the same way as the
gladioli.
_Tuberoses_ should be lifted with the stems intact and spread out to dry
or hung in a dry place. When thoroughly cured, cut off the stems close
to the bulb and store in the same way as gladioli.
_Caladium, or Elephant's Ears_, should be lifted without disturbing the
stem or leaves. As the leaves dry they can be removed, but the stem
should not be cut near the bulb, as this is the point of growth the
following year. They can be stored with the dahlias and cannas and are
not apt to shrivel, as the bulb is so large and fleshy.
_Zephyrunthes, summer blooming hyacinths, tritomas, and tigridias_
should be lifted, cured, and stored in the same manner as gladioli.
All of these are subject to rot, so it is well to examine them
occasionally. If any rot is found, remove the affected bulbs, and if
those remaining appear damp, dust lightly with air-slaked lime. Flowers
of sulphur can also be used to dust them with to prevent this trouble.
Should the bulbs be getting too dry, cover with sand. In our climate of
extremes, it is necessary to examine them at intervals, and be prompt in
the use of a remedy if any of these adverse conditions are discovered.
* * * * *
NOTICE.
The November meeting of the Garden Flower Society will be held in the
Minneapolis Park Board greenhouses, thirty-eighth street and Bryant
avenue, November 16, 2:30 p.m. Take Monroe and Bryant car. St. Paul
members will transfer from the Selby-Lake at Bryant avenue. This will be
a chrysanthemum show, and a talk on hardy chrysanthemums will be given.
SECRETARY'S CORNER
MINNESOTA CROP IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATION.--Will hold its annual
meeting this year at Fairmont on Feb. 21-22-23. The seed growers of
Minnesota would be especially interested in this meeting, at which there
are to be a number of seed contests, particulars in regard to which are
not at hand. They may be secured by addressing the secretary, Prof. C. P.
Bull, University Farm, St. Paul, Minn.
THE VEGETABLE GROWERS CONVENTION.--This convention, which is I
understand an annual gathering of the vegetable growers of America, was
largely attended in Chicago the last week in September. A report
received of the meeting indicates an attendance of eight hundred
vegetable growers, including two hundred fifty from the vicinity of
Chicago. The city entertained them with an inspection trip, throughout
Cook County and later a party of them went to Racine and visited the
experimental gardens operated by Prof. R. L. Jones, of the Wisconsin
University. Perhaps we may have a fuller report of this meeting from
some of our Minnesota growers who were in attendance.
THE SOCIAL ELEMENT AT OUR ANNUAL MEETING.--Making the West
Hotel the headquarters of the society at the same time that the meeting
is held in the building gives an especially good opportunity for
renewing and cultivating acquaintance amongst the members in attendance.
This was particularly noticeable last year, and without doubt one of the
most enjoyable features of the gathering. Placing emphasis upon this, an
additional room has been engaged for the coming meeting on the same
floor and adjoining the rooms occupied last year, which will be fitted
up especially for a reception room where members and their friends may
gather and rest as they visit and talk of the many things of interest
connected with our society and its work. A suitable sign will direct
members to this reception room, and we anticipate that it will be made
use of largely.
THE PRIZE WINNER IN THE GARDEN AND CANNING CONTEST.--The
Horticultural Society is offering $10.00 to pay railroad fare and
traveling expenses to attend the annual meeting of our society by the
boy or girl making the best record in the state in the "garden and
canning contest" carried on by the Minnesota Extension Division. The
successful contestant will tell in his or her way how it was that
success was secured in the contest. Besides this prize of $10.00 each of
the ten boys or girls scoring next highest in this contest will receive
an annual membership for 1917 in the State Horticultural Society. The
name of the successful contestant is not yet announced.
DELEGATES FROM SISTER SOCIETIES.--Several delegates have been
appointed from horticultural societies in adjoining states, notices of
which have reached this office.
Mr. D. E. Bingham, of Sturgeon Bay, Wis., is to represent the Wisconsin
State Horticultural Society. Mr. Bingham has made fruit growing his life
work, a man of large experience, whose services are in demand in that
state also as an institute lecturer. We shall have an opportunity to
profit by his experience at our meeting, as you will note by consulting
the program.
Mr. G. D. Black, of Independence, Ia., is to represent the Northeast Iowa
Society. Mr. Black has been with us before and he will find many who
recall his presence here in previous years. He is to give us on the
program his later experience in connection with the growing of the
gladioli, a work to which he has given large attention for many years.
From South Dakota is coming the president of that society, Rev. S. A.
Hassold, from Kimball, S.D.
Other visitors from Iowa not officially sent to us who have signified an
intention to be present are: Chas. F. Gardner, Osage, Ia.; E. M. Reeves,
Waverly. Prof. S. A. Beach is also to spend the last two days of the
annual meeting with us and his name will be found upon our program on
several topics. No professional horticulturist in America is better or
more favorably known than Prof. Beach, and our membership who are
interested in orcharding should not fail to hear what he has to say on
the subjects he presents.
Mr. N. A. Rasmussen, of Oshkosh, Wis., is also to be with us and will be
found several times on the program. Being an expert in market gardening
we are going to work him to the limit while he is with us. We anticipate
that Secretary Cranefield of the Wisconsin Society, will also spend the
week with us. Prof. C.B. Waldron will be here as representative of the
North Dakota Society, and also Prof. F.W. Broderick of Winnipeg as
representing the Winnipeg Horticultural Society--and of course our Prof.
N.E. Hansen, of South Dakota. All of these friends will be found on the
program.
There may be others, but this will do for a start.
[Illustration: VIEW OVER VEGETABLE TABLE AND ACROSS FRUIT EXHIBIT AT
1916 MINNESOTA STATE FAIR. MR. THOS. REDPATH, SUPT. FRUIT
EXHIBIT.]
While it is not the intention to publish anything in this
magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be
remembered that the articles published herein recite the
experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must
always be noted in estimating their practical value.
THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST
Vol. 44 DECEMBER, 1916 No. 12
Perennial Garden at Carmarken, White Bear.
J. W. TAYLOR, ST. PAUL.
We have had so many inquiries about our garden as to how we make things
grow, and as to the best plants to use, that we take pleasure in
answering through the Horticulturist and giving the result of our
experience in making an attractive perennial garden. Our soil is sandy
loam, very quick and warm, except in one place where it is low and there
is a heavy black soil over clay. It has been well enriched with well
rotted manure and cultivated as much as possible every spring, where it
could be done without disturbing plants and bulbs. The arrangement of
flowers as regards the blending and careful selection so that one bloom
does not kill another is the secret of a beautiful garden. Acres of
flowers placed without any regard to color, no matter how expensive
individual plants may be, is not pleasing to the eye. It is like a crowd
of mixed people, and we know crowds are never beautiful. There is
incompatibility among flowers as there is among people, and the
compatible must be associated or there is no harmony.
What do we raise and how do we do it? We will, in the space allowed,
answer this as best we can. It is not necessary to spend a great lot of
money if one uses good judgment and knows where to buy. Take that grand
flower, the peony. One can spend as much money as one pleases on these.
There is just now a fad regarding these flowers, and some rich people
are paying as high as $30.00 a root for certain kinds, but it is not
necessary. The most really lovely gardens I have seen in the East and
West have not been filled with plants bought at fancy prices. We have
some that originally cost us a good deal of money and which are now
cheap, as for instance, the Henryii lily. We bought the first we heard
of at one dollar and one-half each. Now they can be bought for thirty
cents. In peonies, Baroness Schroeder, an ivory white, is selling for
three dollars a root, while the most beautiful of all the whites
according to my taste, Festiva Maxima, can be bought for fifty cents.
The Kelways are all fine. The best cost about one dollar each. In our
garden, among others, the Pallas, Edulis Superba, Golden Harvest, Madame
Crousse and Queen Victoria, all fine, cost us fifty cents each. We have
a row all around our garden of these splendid flowers, many varieties,
some very rare, and nothing could be more gorgeous in color or more
effective than this border. Hundreds of people came to see this peony
show this year and were extravagant in their praise. The perfect harmony
of arrangement was what pleased. We made many friends happy with armfuls
of them to take home. That is the pleasure of your garden, the enjoyment
one gets from making others happy. We especially notice how pleased the
children were, the girls more so than the boys, perhaps, as they
wandered along the paths fondling this or that bloom with loving
fingers. With such an amount of bloom it is easy to send bouquets to the
childrens' hospitals and to sick friends. We plant the peonies with the
crown just under the earth, two feet apart. In the fall we cut off the
old stalks and replace them over the plants after putting a good
dressing of rotted manure on the beds.
Another flower, which is very attractive, is the larkspur Belladonna,
turquoise blue. It shows from a great distance as its heavenly blue
meets the eye. When arranged in a vase with white flowers it makes the
most beautiful, choice and refined bouquet we know of. The Formosum is a
lovely dark blue and very striking. Give them plenty of water and some
wood ashes to keep off the slugs. Cut off the stalks after blooming,
about August first, and they will bloom again in autumn. We had this
year a large clump of Madonna lilies and next to them a large bunch of
larkspur. The effect was stunning. Just before the larkspur came the
whole north end of the garden was aflame with Oriental poppies, hundreds
of them. No other flower produces the effect upon one that this great
proud, wonderful flower does. It is the queen of the show. We transplant
this in September in ordinary soil. Or we sow the seeds in August and
transplant the seedlings as soon as up. They need no protection, but we
protect everything with straw and branches. The branches to keep the
straw from packing too hard and keeping the air out. Protection of
roses is necessary, of course. We had a great collection this season.
Our plan is to cut them back to within a foot of the ground then fill a
box with leaves and turn over them. We never lose a rose thus protected.
Neither sun nor mice injure them.
Another grand flower is Digitalis, or foxglove. These gladden your heart
as the medicine made from them strengthens it. Get the mixed plants or
seed, Gloxinia flora. When in bloom, look into their little gloves and
note the wonder of nature's coloring. With us they grow six feet tall in
black, heavy soil. They self-sow, and the plants of the present year
bloom the next. A bed of these make a most gorgeous, dignified group in
your garden. They are hardy with a very slight covering. Many with us
self-sow and live through the winter without any protection. We made up
a bed of these self-sowed in fall of 1915. They were a glory this
summer. A few years ago every one said, don't waste your time on
Japanese Iris. They thrive with us and bear blooms fully as large as a
tea plate and of most exquisite beauty. We divide them every third year
and in the spring cover them with old fertilizer and water them well.
They grow in a heavy soil with some sand worked in. Our best varieties
are Oriole, Distinction, Alice Kiernga, Beauty of Japan and Blue Flag.
The Gladiolus is another bright and interesting addition to our floral
family. The best we have are Marie de Ruyter, a pretty blue; Badenia,
lavender; Golden King, a magnificent yellow; Florence, lilac blotched;
Mazie, corn color; and Dawn, shell pink. Plant these bulbs in
succession, three weeks apart, from April first, six inches deep, so
they will stand up, and eighteen inches between rows. In this way you
will have them until frost. For the house cut them when first bud comes
out, and they will all blossom in water.
A flower which attracts much attention with us is the Canterbury Bell,
cup and saucer variety, in different colors. Very showy. This is not a
perennial but a biennial. We plant our seeds in July and transplant in
September or October. The Persicifolia in white and blue is a hardy
perennial and grows on stalks two to three feet high, a great favorite
among white flowers. In some soils they do not do well, but with us grow
rampant. We prefer the white. We cut over two thousand stalks this
summer from one hundred fifty plants.
Of Tulips, which are so welcome in early spring, the Darwin leads all.
We love them as we do the Stars of Bethlehem, the Hyacinths, Narcissi
and the darling little blue flowers, Scilla Siberica, that come with the
Snowdrops and Crocuses before the snow is gone. We thus have bloom from
snow to snow. Always something bright, and that is another strong reason
for a perennial garden.
We have many calls from persons wishing to buy plants or seeds. We do
not sell either, but gladly give away our surplus. We have furnished
many gardens in this way all about us and thus added to the beauty of
the surrounding country and made ourselves and others happy. Our
collection of Lilies, Auratums, Speciosums, Tigers, Madonnas, are all
planted six to eight inches deep and, after spreading manure are covered
with straw, after frost. We cover all bulb beds with manure in the fall.
Among lilies all but the Auratums last years, but these lose their
vitality in two or three seasons. Plant all lilies in fall except
Madonnas, which should be put in in August. Two fine flowers we would
recommend to flower lovers: the Amaryllis Hallii, or, as we call it, the
wonder flower, which grows a large bunch of leaves in spring and in June
they all die down. In August there springs up a single stalk from the
apparently dead plant, bearing a lily-like bunch of flowers of charming
colors. It is as hardy as an oak. The other is the Dictamnus, or gas
plant. Most beautiful and very hardy. Get one white and one pink and
plant near each other. They are fine. Of course we have named but a
small part of our collection, but will be glad to give any further
information to our Horticulturist readers and will be glad to welcome
them at our grounds any time.
* * * * *
CANNING FRUITS WITHOUT SIRUP.--Can the product the same day it
is picked. Cull, stem, or seed, and clean the fruit by placing it in a
strainer and pouring water over it until it is clean. Pack the product
thoroughly in glass jars or tin cans until they are full; use the handle
of a tablespoon, wooden ladle, or table knife for packing purposes. Pour
over the fruit boiling water from a kettle, place rubbers and caps in
position, partially seal if using glass jars, seal completely if using
tin cans. Place the containers in a sterilizing vat, such as a wash
boiler with false bottom, or other receptacle improvised for the
purpose. If using a hot-water bath outfit, process for 30 minutes; count
time after the water has reached the boiling point; the water must cover
the highest jar in container. After sterilizing seal glass jars, wrap in
paper to prevent bleaching, and store in a dry, cool place.
If you are canning in tin cans it will improve the product to plunge the
cans quickly into cold water immediately after sterilization. When using
a steam pressure canner instead of the hot-water bath, sterilize for 10
minutes with 5 pounds of steam pressure. Never allow the pressure to go
over 10 pounds.
The Minnesota State Fruit-Breeding Farm.
CHAS. HARALSON, SUPT., EXCELSIOR.
The Minnesota State Fruit-Breeding Farm was established eight years ago,
principally for breeding new varieties of fruit adapted to our climate
and conditions. The aim of this work is to assist the people in getting
better commercial varieties of the various fruits grown in the state, so
that better returns could be secured for the people engaged in the
various lines of fruit growing. Some of the plant-breeding work is
beginning to show results, a few varieties of fruit are being
distributed in a small way for trial in different localities.
A great deal of work has been done with apples. Seedlings have been
grown by the thousands every year with the idea of selecting some
desirable varieties when the trees come into fruiting. Hardiness of
tree, long keeping and good quality of fruit are the most desirable
points we are looking for in our selections. A great deal of crossing
under glass is being done with apples; a number of seedlings, the
results of this crossing work, are planted every spring.
Some of the six thousand Malinda apple seedlings planted seven years ago
have fruited to some extent for the last three years. These show a great
variation in fruit, both in color, quality and long keeping. Some of the
fruit ripens with the Duchess, while others will keep until spring in
good condition. There is a chance for some desirable varieties out of
this lot, but it will take several years to determine whether we have
anything better than the Wealthy. The Wealthy is by far our best
commercial variety, but we are looking for something that will keep
until spring.
Gooseberries and currants are easily raised and are perfectly hardy with
us, but we are working to get some improvement on these varieties. Many
thousand seedlings are being grown for this purpose. Our native
gooseberries are used in breeding work with the cultivated varieties to
a great extent, as they are hardy, strong growers and resistant to
mildew.
As to cherries, we have none that are satisfactory. Some work has been
carried on for several years, but we have not obtained anything of
special value so far. The most promising combinations are Compass cherry
crossed with the cultivated varieties. None of these have fruited, but
we have some hope for a hardy cherry from these seedlings.
Peaches and apricots are not hardy in Minnesota, and consequently nobody
thinks of planting them. Some years ago we started crossing the sand
cherry with peaches and apricots. The results were a number of
seedlings, but all turned out to be worthless; the trees after several
years growth were small, or grew mostly in bush form. They blossomed
every spring but never set any fruit on account of some imperfection in
the flowers. Four years ago we started to use the Compass cherry as the
male parent, and this combination is more promising. The seedlings make
a good growth and a fairly good sized tree, practically as hardy as the
Compass cherry. The seedlings resemble the apricots and peaches in
blossom, tree and foliage. This fruit will not be exactly an apricot or
a peach, but may take the place of these fruits in a small way.
[Illustration: No. 7 Hybrid Seedling Plum--from Minnesota State
Fruit-Breeding Farm, at Zumbra Heights.]
The Compass cherry crossed with Prunus Pissardi, or purple leaf plum, is
a very interesting combination. We have about fifty seedlings growing.
Most of them have the purple foliage and bark, are very ornamental and
can be used with effect for lawns and landscape planting where large
shrubs are wanted.
The grapes. The Vitis Labrusca, such as Concord, Worden, Moore's Early
and many other varieties, are not hardy unless protected during winter.
There is a demand for hardy grapes that do not need any winter
protection. At the Fruit-Breeding Farm this problem has been taken up on
a large scale. The Beta grape is hardy but lacks in size and quality.
This variety has been used to grow many thousands of seedlings from, and
also used in cross-breeding with the better varieties. A large percent
of Beta seedlings come true to seed or nearly so. This gives us several
hundred varieties equal to Beta, and some of them are quite an
improvement in size and quality over the parent and practically as hardy
as the wild grape. Many of these are worthy of propagation where
hardiness is the main object. Very few of the hybrid grape seedlings
have fruited, but indications are that in a few years we will have
grapes equal in size and quality to any of our commercial varieties.
Experiments are being carried on in a small way with pears, roses and
nuts. Our native hazelnuts can be improved by selection and crossing
with the filberts. The same is true with the Rosa Rugosa and our native
roses.
In breeding strawberries we probably have had better success than with
any other fruit we have attempted to improve. The breeding work was done
in the greenhouse during winter and early spring and seed planted as
soon as berries were ripe. The plants were transplanted to flats and
later planted out in the field, where they remained until fruiting, when
the selections were made. We have fruited approximately 60,000
seedlings. These have been weeded out so there are about 400 left, and
these will be cut down to a few of the best varieties. At present we
have one everbearing and one June-bearing variety which have proven to
be very productive, of good size, good quality and good plantmakers.
These plants have been sent out as premiums to members of the State
Horticultural Society for the last two years and will be distributed the
same way next spring.
In raspberries we have several varieties which are promising. King x
Loudan, No. 4, is a variety that has been sent out as premium the last
three years. This variety is amongst the hardiest, the berries are dark
red, very large and the most productive of all the varieties growing on
the place. This has also been sent out as premium through the
Horticultural Society.
In plums we probably have had the best success. Some of the first
breeding work was with Burbank x (crossed with) Wolf and Abundance x
Wolf. We have twenty-eight seedlings of Burbank x Wolf and forty-five
Abundance x Wolf which have fruited several years. We have varying
degrees of hardiness in these seedlings. Most of them have withstood our
winters at the fruit farm without injury, as well as in most of the
southern half of the state.
Among the Abundance x Wolf hybrids eight of the seedlings are only
partly hardy, while of the Burbank x Wolf only one or two have shown
themselves to be particularly weak in this respect.
Type of fruit. In general the Burbank type of fruit is dominant. The
flesh of these hybrids runs quite uniformly yellow, varying in degrees,
however, from a deep yellow to a yellowish green. Some of them have a
yellow skin with a blush or a streak of red, while others are a deep red
even before ripe. The fruit in size varies from both smaller and larger
than the parents. Firmness characterises most of the hybrids. We are
also getting good shipping quality, and in Burbank x Wolf No. 12 we have
a plum measuring one and three-quarters inches and more in diameter and
a perfect freestone. This plum will be used extensively in further
plant-breeding.
In shape of tree the two hybrids differ materially. The Burbank x Wolf
hybrids make spreading trees more or less, while the Abundance x Wolf
grows more upright and does not need quite as much room.
* * * * *
TENT CATERPILLAR.--As soon as small nests are detected, they
should be destroyed. When in convenient reach, the nests may be torn out
with a brush, with gloved hand, or otherwise, and the larvae crushed on
the ground, care being taken to destroy any caterpillars which have
remained on the tree.
The use of a torch to burn out the nests will be found convenient when
they occur in the higher parts of the trees. In using the torch great
care is necessary that no important injury be done to the tree; it
should not be used in burning out nests except in the smaller branches
and twigs, the killing of which would be of no special importance. Nests
in the larger limbs should be destroyed by hand, as the use of the torch
may kill the bark, resulting in permanent injury.
Tent caterpillars are readily destroyed by arsenicals sprayed on the
foliage of trees infested by them. Any of the arsenical insecticides may
be used, as Paris green, Scheele's green, arsenate of lead, etc. The
first two are used at the rate of one-half pound to 50 gallons of water.
The milk of lime made from 2 to 3 pounds of stone lime should be added
to neutralize any caustic effect of the arsenical on the foliage.
Arsenate of lead is used at the rate of 2 pounds to each 50 gallons of
water.
On stone fruits, such as cherry, peach, and plum, arsenicals are likely
to cause injury to foliage and must be used with caution if at all. On
such trees the arsenate of lead is preferable, as it is less injurious
to foliage, and on all trees sticks much better. In spraying for the
tent caterpillar only, applications should be made while the
caterpillars are yet small, as they then succumb more quickly to poisons
than when more nearly full grown, and prompt treatment stops further
defoliation of the trees.--U. S. Dept. Agri.
Color Combinations in the Garden.
MISS ELIZABETH STARR, 2224 FREMONT SO., MINNEAPOLIS.
English books on gardening set forth two principal methods of making a
garden: first, to have each part perfect for a short time each year and
then let it melt into the background for the rest of the season; second,
to have every part of the garden showing some flowers all through the
summer.
These two methods suggest the impressionistic and miniature schools of
painting. With the first method it is possible to get great masses of
color and brilliant effects to be viewed at a distance, but it requires
a great deal of space, with a perennial garden at least, for
unfortunately most of our perennials are in their greatest glory for
only a few weeks at a time. The second method fills more nearly the
needs of the small garden, where the vistas are short and the individual
plant is under close inspection. The greatest difficulty is this, that
the amateur cannot resist the lure of a great variety of plants, and
unless a vigorous thinning out is faithfully practiced and the habit of
growth, the period of blooming, the height and color of each individual
is carefully studied, the effect of the whole is very apt to be mussy
and distracting to the eye, whereas the ideal garden is soothing in
effect.
I have only been studying the problem for the last five or six years, so
that I am still decidedly an amateur, but I have kept a faithful record
of the time of flowering of each variety I have grown in my garden and
have discovered that the time of blooming does not vary more than five
days for each plant no matter whether the season be wet or dry. With
this record at hand I can arrange each part of my garden with a view to
the succession of bloom throughout the summer. I can place plants with
clashing colors side by side with the calm assurance that they will not
clash because their periods of blooming do not overlap. In this way I
can completely change the color of certain parts of my garden during the
summer if I so desire.
In studying combinations for the garden we must take into consideration
the harmony and contrast of color, texture, form, height and the
succession of bloom. We must also see that plants requiring the same
soil and the same care are put together. In my garden I use both annuals
and perennials but am limited in choice to those plants that are
perfectly hardy, that will stand infinite neglect, drought, much wind, a
stiff soil, that do not require especial protection in the winter, that
will be in bloom all summer long and be beautiful. This, as I have
found, is a rather difficult task.
[Illustration: Perennial border. Edging of pinks and Shasta daisies,
pink canterbury bells and Festiva Maxima peony. Behind, pyrethrum,
uliginosum and hollyhocks. Blue flowering flax adds depth to the pink
and white.]
There is a great diversity of opinion as to how to set out plants. Some
say, "Give each plant plenty of room; let it expand as much as it will."
Others say, "Each six inches of ground should have its plant; set them
so closely that no dirt will show between; in this way each individual
plant will be finer than when set out singly and the leaves will form a
shade for the ground." I have used the latter method, for, since we have
no means of watering, the conservation of moisture is an important item.
The chief objection is that there is a constant danger of overcrowding,
and it requires a frequent resetting of plants as they increase in size
from year to year.
[Illustration: Yellow iris against the blue of distant hills.]
I have a border on the north side of my garden that is six feet wide and
about seventy feet long. It is my aim to keep this in bloom all through
the summer long. There is a background of purple and white lilacs and
cut-leaf spirea. The first thing that comes in the spring is poet's
narcissus, then groups of Darwin tulips; both of these are naturalized
and remain in the ground from year to year. Next comes the perennial
blue flax, a half dozen plants set at intervals down the border, that
every morning from mid-April until August are a mass of blue. Clumps of
May-flowering iris and then June-flowering iris and four large peony
plants make the border bright until the latter part of June, when
alternating groups of field daisies and pink and red sweet williams are
in full bloom at one end of the border, and summer-flowering cosmos
holds sway at the other end, while the flax, bachelor's buttons and
daisies fill the center with blue and white. By the middle of July the
calendulas, coreopsis and annual larkspur make a vivid display where the
narcissus was before. These four make a very good combination, for if
the bed is well made and the narcissus planted deep, the coreopsis and
larkspur seed themselves, and with the exception of a deep raking in the
late fall the bed needs no attention except thinning out for three
years, and it is in bloom for at least four months of the season.
[Illustration: Pink and white pinks, field and Shasta daisies,
canterbury bells and hollyhocks.]
In this border I have at last found a place for the magenta phlox that
usually fights with the whole garden. I put it in front of a single row
of pink and white cosmos, flank it on one side with pink and white
verbenas, on the other with mixed scabiosas and in front of all a single
row of Shasta daisies. This combination pleases the family as well as
the phlox.
On the south side of the garden, against a low buckthorn hedge is a
narrower border of sky-blue belladonna, delphinium, buttercups and
achillea, with an edging of Chinese pinks. I had thought the
complementary colors of the delphinium and buttercups would set each
other off, but it is a very poor combination, for the foliage is so much
alike that there is no contrast there, and when the plants are not in
bloom it is almost impossible to tell which is which so as to take out
the buttercups, whose yellow is too bright. Shasta daisies set off the
delphiniums to perfection with the wonderful purity of their white and
yellow and pleasing contrast of form, foliage and height. With Emperor
narcissus bulbs set between the plants, there are flowers in the border
the whole season.
Another very poor combination that is in my garden, much to my sorrow,
is hemerocallis and siberica iris. They started out about three feet
from each other, but the hemerocallis spreads so quickly that now they
form a mass that is almost impossible to break apart. Another mistake I
made was to put Shasta daisies and field daisies near together. It is
unfair to the smaller daisies, for although they are fully two inches in
diameter, yet they appear dwarfed beside the giants.
There is one point in my garden that is vivid throughout the summer.
First comes the orange lilium elegans, then scarlet lychnis and later,
tiger lilies. Another bit is gorgeous from the first of August until
frost; it is made up of blue and white campanula pyramidalis, that grow
quite five feet high, and Mrs. Francis King gladioli.
An important thing to think of is the line of vision from each point of
vantage of the house--the endwise view of a multicolored bed of fairy
columbines against a light green willow from the sewing room window,
from the library the blue of a Juniata iris swaying four feet up in the
air in front of a sweet briar, from the front porch pale yellow
Flavescens iris through a mist of purple sweet rockets.
The garden is in its glory during the iris season. At a conservative
estimate we have about twenty-five hundred of them in our little garden,
ranging through all the colors of the rainbow and blooming from April
until late June. They may easily make such an increase that it is
baffling to cope with, but they are so beautiful and so amenable to the
experimenting of an amateur that we feel as though we couldn't get
enough of them. Last summer a wonderful effect was achieved by putting
dark blue and mahogany-colored pansies beside Jacquesiana and Othello
iris, this repeating the color and texture in different plants.
[Illustration: Rocky Mountain columbine against the willow hedge, with
perennial candytuft as edging.]
We leave the garden through a wooden arch. Climbing over one side of
this is a Thousandschon rose, and on the other side a Dr. Van Fleet
grows rank. A wild clematis is planted beside each rose and fills the
top of the arch. I am rather dubious about the combination, for I fear
the clematis may grow so heavy that it will choke out the roses, but
this summer at least it was beautiful, and another summer will come to
try other combinations.
Truck Crop and Garden Insects.
AN EXERCISE LED BY PROF. WM. MOORE, ENTOMOLOGICAL DEPARTMENT, UNIVERSITY
FARM, ST. PAUL.
There is one insect that probably all those who are in the market garden
business are very much interested in, and that is the cabbage maggot. As
you all know, in the spring of the year, after cabbages are put out,
frequently you will find the cabbages slowly dying, one dying one day
and two or three the next day, and so on until sometimes fifty per cent
or more of the cabbages die. At first it is not exactly apparent what is
killing the cabbages, but when one is pulled up it will be noticed that
a little maggot is working in the root of the cabbage. This insect is
commonly known as the cabbage maggot.
For a number of years work has been carried on with the cabbage maggot,
and all sorts of treatments have been tried, many without any great
success. The unfortunate part is that usually the market gardener don't
take much thought of this maggot until it is actually doing the injury,
and at that time they are mighty difficult to handle.
There have been several different treatments advised, one of which is
fresh hellebore, about two ounces steeped in a quart of boiling water
and then diluted to a gallon and poured upon the base of the plant. It
will destroy the maggots, but hellebore is very expensive and, as
probably most of you know, there isn't a great amount of profit in
cabbage; so any treatment will have to be a cheap treatment, or you will
use up your profit.
During the last two years I have been working along a line which is
entirely different from the treatment of the maggot, and that is based
upon the fact that the fly which lays the egg which produces the maggot
in the cabbage comes out early in the spring and flies about the field
for probably a week or ten days or two weeks before it lays its eggs,
and during that period it eats any sweet material which happens to be on
hand. With this as a basis we thought we might be able to poison the
flies and thus prevent injury from the maggots, and we have tried
several different spray mixtures along that line. One mixture which we
use is a mixture which is normally used against the fruit flies which
are oftentimes injurious to fruit, particularly in the east and in
tropical countries. This contains three ounces of arsenate of lead, two
and half pounds of brown sugar and four gallons of water. The idea is to
spray this in the field, spraying it on the plants as soon as the
plants are put out in the field. We have more or less definite dates for
the appearance of the flies in the field and for their disappearance
again. But, as you know, the season varies, and the result is somewhat
uncertain. So probably the best method is to base it upon the time you
plant out your cabbage. In the early seasons you will plant your
cabbages early, and in the late seasons later. So plant out your cabbage
and then spray them every week until the 10th of May.
You should spray them, not to cover the leaves with the poison, but
merely sufficient so that there are a few drops of this poisoned
material on the leaves so that the flies can eat it. Flies will come
there and feed upon this mixture and die.
It is rather peculiar that we started work here about the same time on
the cabbage maggot that they started work on the onion maggot along
similar lines in Wisconsin. I don't think that either knew that the
other was working towards that end. They used a different mixture,
one-fifth ounce of sodium arsenite, one-half pint of New Orleans
molasses and one gallon of water. This was sprayed over the onions and
was very successful in controlling the onion maggot.
I tried their mixture this last year. They published some of their
results last year, so it gave me an opportunity to watch their mixture
in comparison with the lead arsenate. They claimed the lead arsenate did
not act as quickly as the sodium arsenite. That is true, but when you
have a ten-day period to kill the fly it don't make much difference
whether it dies in ten hours or twenty-four. The flies are not doing any
injury. If you take the lead arsenate and sugar and water and put it in
a jar, the arsenate always sinks to the bottom, and if you were to test
it that way, the fly would feed on the top and you might not get a quick
result. But if you spray it on, the lead arsenate will kill as quickly
as the sodium arsenite.
There is an objection to the use of arsenite in that sodium arsenite is
a soluble poison and will burn the leaves of the cabbage. Of course,
that is not particularly serious as those are the first leaves the
cabbages have and the cabbage soon gets over any slight injury, but many
truck gardeners probably would object to that. In the onion you have a
different shaped leaf, and the injury is not so apparent. Last summer I
found that New Orleans molasses would give you a little bit better
result than the sugar, and it is cheaper. The objection to the New
Orleans molasses is the sticky nature of the material in handling.
I might mention in regard to opening cans of New Orleans molasses. If
you never opened one and try this treatment, be careful about opening
the can. The lid is pushed down tight and under warm conditions, or if
the molasses has been in a warm room there is a certain amount of
fermentation and gas under pressure, and if you pry it open quickly you
find the lid flies up in the air and you will probably be smeared over
with molasses.
I employed my spray, that is, one ounce of lead arsenate, one-half pint
of New Orleans molasses and one gallon of water last season. The check
plots had cabbages attacked by the maggots, probably 10 or 15 per cent
of the plants dying from the attack. Last year was a very good season,
that is, many of the plants seriously attacked put out roots again, and
those were able to grow again in the sprayed plots. The infestation of
the sprayed plots was probably about 30 to 40 per cent. of the plants,
but they only contained probably one maggot each, which is very slight
and not sufficient to do any damage.
There is one market gardener whose cabbage patch we sprayed, I think,
only a part of two rows, and we thought we would leave the rest of his
patch as a control. Apparently the amount of material we put on there
was sufficient to attract the flies from the whole field. Not a single
cabbage died, and he was pleased with the result of the spray.
Mr. Miller: What do you do for root aphis?
Mr. Moore: Root aphis can very easily be controlled with tobacco
extract. It is put upon the root of any plant that is affected, a
tablespoonful to a gallon of water. There are a number of different
tobacco extracts on the market. Some of them contain 15 per cent. of
nicotine, some contain 20, some 25 and some 40, and I think there is one
brand that contains 45 per cent. You will find that the brands that
contain the most nicotine are the most expensive, but in proportion you
use less material. Thus 20 per cent. tobacco extract would take two
tablespoonfuls to the gallon, while 40 per cent. would take only one. It
is the nicotine which is the working portion of it.
Mr. Miller: Then you can use the black leaf forty?
Mr. Moore: It is very good, it is 40 per cent. nicotine. There is
another product put out by the same company, a black leaf, only 15 or 20
per cent. This is cheaper, but you have to use more of it. If anything
probably the more expensive would be the cheaper in the long run.
Mr. Wintersteen: The maggots that attack the radishes and turnips are
the same as the cabbage maggot?
Mr. Moore: Yes, sir.
Mr. Wintersteen: Why is it I have no trouble with the cabbages, and yet
I can raise no radishes or turnips in the same ground?
Mr. Moore: The radishes and turnips are attacked and the cabbages are
not?
Mr. Wintersteen: Yes, sir.
Mr. Moore: Which do you raise, early cabbages?
Mr. Wintersteen: Yes, sir.
Mr. Moore: What variety do you raise?
Mr. Wintersteen: The Wakefield, generally.
Mr. Moore: Some varieties of cabbages are not nearly so severely
attacked as others. I think of the two that they would prefer radishes
probably. Growing them side by side you find they infest the radishes.
That was my experience last year. I grew the first generation of
cabbages, and the second generation I took over into the radishes
because I wanted to treat them there.
Mr. Rasmussen: Did you say the same fly attacks the onion and the
cabbage?
Mr. Moore: The onion has two different flies, one which is black in
color, with light colored bands across the wings, and that one passes
the winter as a larva in the old onions left in the field. It is an
injurious practice to leave old onions there to breed these maggots. If
they were taken out and destroyed you could do away with that one. The
cabbage fly is different. When you use the spray it would probably be
all right to use the sodium arsenite for the onion and the lead arsenate
for the cabbage. The type of leaf is entirely different, and on the
cabbage you are apt to burn them with the sodium arsenite while the lead
arsenate will give you practically the same result.
Mr. Goudy: The cabbage butterfly, does that come from the same maggot?
Mr. Moore: No; this maggot is on the root, the cabbage butterfly lays
its eggs on the leaf. You get the cabbage worm from the cabbage
butterfly.
Mr. Goudy: What do you do for that?
Mr. Moore: Paris green is used to a great extent, but many people have a
horror of using Paris green. Last year, I think it was, I was called up
on the phone by some one and I advised him to use Paris green. He said
that he was afraid it might poison everybody. I explained to him there
was no danger from it, as you know the cabbage leaves grow from the
inside, not from the outside, and the spray would be on the outside
leaves. Besides that, we usually spray early for the cabbage worm while
the heads come on later.
Mr. Goudy: Did you ever try capsicum, sprinkling that on the heads?
Mr. Moore: No, sir.
Mr. Goudy: I saved my cabbages one year by using that.
Mr. Moore: Some people claim salt is good. One of the students mentioned
it to me. One applied it by putting a spoonful around over the head,
another dissolved a tablespoonful in about ten quarts of water and
sprayed it on. Salt is rather injurious to vegetation as a rule. Of
course, they only put it on the leaves, and the cabbage is a hardy
plant. Air slaked lime is also good, but would have to be applied
several times. With the arsenate you apply it once and kill all the
brood.
Mr. Ludlow: We took them all off of mine one year by using boiling hot
water.
Mr. Moore: Yes, sir; water is very good. The objection is, on a large
scale it is not feasible.
Mr. Miller: Slug shot is very good.
Mr. Moore: Yes, sir; it doesn't contain very much poison, but it is
sufficient to kill the cabbage worm.
Mr. Cadoo: I used just simply wood ashes.
Mr. Moore: The cabbage worm is one that is very easy to handle.
A Member: I have always used salt. I think it makes a more firm and
solid head, that is my theory, I don't know whether I am right or not. I
have been doing that for years.
Mr. Moore: I don't know. I never heard of the treatment with salt until
two or three days ago when several students mentioned that they used
salt. Some people won't use Paris green. There was one case a man said
his wife wouldn't let him do it even if she knew it wasn't poison; she
didn't like the idea of Paris green on cabbage.
Mr. Ingersoll: Is there anything you can suggest to control the yellows
in asters?
Mr. Moore: The yellows in asters has been a problem which has been very
amusing there at the farm. A man sends in an aster to the entomological
department, we examine it and can't find anything that belongs to our
department, and we send it to the plant pathological department, and
they send it back to us. Last year we made a point in every case of
yellows in asters to send some one to investigate and find out what was
going on to produce it. In some cases it seemed to be a fungous disease.
One case I know turned out to be a fungous disease, the very next one
was due to plant lice on the roots of the asters. In that case I don't
think you get quite the distinct yellows of the asters, but rather the
plants wilt and become weak and finally die. That can very easily be
controlled with tobacco extract, pouring it upon the buds of the plants.
We do not know definitely about the yellows. We think it is more or less
of a physiological disease of the plant, not due to an insect. This last
year we have not found any what we would call the true yellows. There is
an insect that produces similar trouble on other plants, a plant bug,
which is hard to secure because it flies away. That is the reason we
have been sending out to see exactly what is going on in the field, and
we didn't see any evidence of their work this year. Another thing, it
seems to be a year in which the asters did fairly well, and there was
very little yellows.
Mr. Ingersoll: You think that irregular watering might make any
difference or very solid rooting?
Mr. Moore: It might do something of the sort. The most we heard of the
yellows was the year before last, and we were held up at the time with
other work and could not investigate properly. Any one here that has
yellows in asters next year, we would be very glad to hear from him and
send some one out to find the cause. It wouldn't surprise me that it was
something in the treatment of the aster.
Mr. Cadoo: Do angleworms hurt house plants?
Mr. Moore: Not as a rule. They do eat a small amount of vegetation, but
ordinarily in a house plant, if you have, say, a worm in a pot, I think
it is rather beneficial than injurious, because it keeps the soil
stirred up.
Mr. Rasmussen: What is the spray for the cabbage and onion maggot?
Mr. Moore: Unfortunately I am a very poor person to remember figures,
and I carry this around with me. One spray is three ounces of lead
arsenate, two and a half pounds of brown sugar to four gallons of water,
but we found that probably a little better spray was to use the New
Orleans molasses instead of the sugar and the formula is: One ounce of
lead arsenate, one-half pint of New Orleans molasses and one gallon of
water. The spray that was used for the onion maggot and was devised over
in Wisconsin is: One-fifth ounce of sodium arsenite, one-half pint of
New Orleans molasses and one gallon of water.
Mr. Rasmussen: The Wisconsin spray is what I used to spray my place
several years, and I was wondering if it was the same.
Mr. Moore: It was peculiar that they started to work on the onion maggot
in Wisconsin at the same time we started on the cabbage maggot here.
Mr. Rasmussen: We have controlled the onion maggots almost entirely, but
the cabbage maggots are very difficult.
Mr. Moore: In our control plots it controlled it very well. Our plants
were infested only with a few maggots, but not sufficient to do any
injury.
The Wealthy Apple.
F. H. BALLOU.
(THE OPINION OF AN OHIO APPLE GROWER--FROM A BULLETIN ISSUED BY OHIO
STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.)
The value of a variety of apple commercially usually decides its place
in the estimation of growers. Naturally the later maturing, longer
keeping or winter varieties are generally accorded this preference.
Orchardists in the southern part of Ohio doubtless would elect Rome
Beauty queen of money makers, were the question put to a vote. Apple
producers of northern Ohio or western New York would as surely vote for
Baldwin. But what variety would you--Mr. Lover-of-apples-and-apple
products--vote for and plant if but a single variety and space for but a
single tree were available? After twenty years observation and enjoyment
of apple precocity, apple dependability and all-around apple excellence
throughout a long season, the writer continues annually to cast his
ballot for Wealthy.
[Illustration: Mr. Rolla Sfubbs, of Bederwood, Lake Minnetonka, under
his favorite tree, the Wealthy.]
True the Wealthy has its faults--so have all the other varieties of
apples of individual choice--and so have we--the growers; but for early
fruitage, prolificacy, excellence for culinary use, extended period of
usefulness, richness and delicacy of flavor when ripened in a cool
cellar and good keeping qualities when under proper conditions it is
placed in cold storage, there are few if any varieties other than this
that combine so many splendid and desirable characteristics. From
mid-July to mid-September of the present year we have been using
Wealthy for culinary purposes with steadily increasing enjoyment as
their quality has gradually become finer and finer. At this writing,
September 18, we have in the cellar attractively colored, well ripened,
pink-and-white-fleshed Wealthy delightful for dessert use; and there are
yet Wealthy--firm and crisp--on the trees for later autumn use if kept
in the cellar, or early winter and holiday use if placed in cold
storage.
If we could have but one apple tree that tree would be a Wealthy. This
statement is made with full knowledge and appreciation of the many other
excellent varieties of various seasons, including Grimes, Jonathan,
Stayman and Delicious.
Law Fixes Standards for Containers for Fruits, Berries and Vegetables in
Interstate Commerce.
(TAKEN FROM "WISCONSIN HORTICULTURE," THE ORGAN OF WIS. STATE
HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.)
Standards for Climax baskets for grapes, other fruits and vegetables,
and other types of baskets and containers used for small fruits,
berries, and vegetables in interstate commerce, are fixed by an act
approved by the President August 31, 1916. The law will become effective
November 1, 1917.
The effect of the act will be to require the use of the standards in
manufacturing, sale, or shipment for all interstate commerce, whether
the containers are filled or unfilled. A large part of the traffic in
fruits and vegetables in this country enters interstate commerce. The
law relates only to the containers and will not affect local regulations
in regard to heaped measure or other method of filling. A special
exemption from the operations of the law is made for all containers
manufactured, sold, or shipped, when intended for export to foreign
countries, and when such containers accord with the specifications of
the foreign purchasers, or comply with the laws of the country to which
the shipment is destined.
Standards of three capacities are fixed for Climax baskets--2, 4 and 12
quarts, dry measure. These containers, often known as "grape baskets,"
have relatively narrow, flat bottoms, rounded at each end, and thin
sides flaring slightly from the perpendicular. The handle is hooped over
at the middle from side to side. In addition to fixing the capacities of
these standard baskets of this type, the law also prescribes their
dimensions.
The other standards are for "baskets or other containers for small
fruits, berries, and vegetables." They are to have capacities only of
one-half pint, 1 pint, 1 quart, or multiples of 1 quart, dry measure.
Such containers may be of any shape so long as their capacities
accurately accord with the standard requirements.
The examination and test of containers to determine whether they comply
with the provisions of the act are made duties of the department, and
the Secretary of Agriculture is empowered to establish and promulgate
rules and regulations allowing such reasonable tolerances and variations
as may be found necessary.
Penalties are provided by the act for the manufacture for shipment, sale
for shipment, or shipment in interstate commerce of Climax baskets, and
containers for small fruits, berries, and vegetables, not in accord with
the standards. It is provided, however:
That no dealer shall be prosecuted under the provisions of this act when
he can establish a guaranty signed by the manufacturer, wholesaler,
jobber, or other party residing within the United States from whom such
Climax baskets, baskets, or other containers, as defined in this act,
were purchased, to the effect that said Climax baskets, baskets, or
other containers are correct within the meaning of this act. Said
guaranty, to afford protection, shall contain the name and address of
the party or parties making the sale of Climax baskets, baskets, or
other containers, to such dealer, and in such case said party or parties
shall be amenable to the prosecutions, fines, and other penalties which
would attach in due course to the dealer under the provisions of this
act.--Department of Agriculture.
[Illustration: A PLANT-CHIMERA: TWO VARIETIES OF APPLE IN ONE.
Golden Russet and Boston Stripe combined in the same fruit, as the
result of a graft. Trees producing these apples bear only a few fruits
of this combination; the rest of the crop belongs entirely to one or
other of the two varieties concerned. The explanation of these chimeras
is that the original buds of the scion failed to grow, after the graft
was made, but an adventitious bud arose exactly at the juncture of stock
and scion, and included cells derived from both. These cells grow side
by side but remain quite distinct in the same stem, each kind of cell
reproducing its own sort. From "Journal of Heredity," May, 1914.
Published by the "American Genetic Association," Washington, D. C.]
The Rhubarb Plant.
LUDVIG MOSBAEK, ASKOV.
Rhubarb, or pieplant, as it is more commonly called, is one of the
hardiest and at the same time a most delicious fruit. When the stalks
are used at the right stage and given the proper care by the cook, they
are almost equal to fresh peaches.
Rhubarb can be transplanted every month in the year, but the best time
is early spring or August. There are especially two things rhubarb will
not stand, "wet feet and deep planting." Most beneficial is good natural
or artificial drainage and rich soil, made so by a good coat of manure,
plowed or spaded in, and a liberal top dressing every fall, cultivated
or hoed in on the top soil the next spring. Fifty plants or divisions of
a good tender variety planted 3 to 4 feet apart will supply an average
household with more delicious fresh fruit and juice for six months of
the year than five times the space of ground devoted to currants,
gooseberries or any other fruit, and if you have from 50 to 100 plants
you can afford to pick the first stalk that sprouts up in April and
still figure on having an abundance to keep you well supplied all
summer.
Do you really know what a delicious beverage can be made from the juice
of rhubarb mixed in cool water? Take it along in the hayfield a hot
summer day. And even if you can not keep it cool the acid contained in
the juice still makes it a delicious and stimulating drink where you
would loathe the taste of a stale beer. There are about a hundred other
ways to prepare rhubarb, not forgetting a well cooled rhubarb mush
served with cool milk in the evening or for that matter three times a
day; nothing cheaper, nor healthier. The fresh acid contained in the
rhubarb purifies the blood and puts new vigor in your body and soul, is
better and cheaper than any patent medicines, and from the growth of 50
to 100 plants you can eat every day for six months and preserve enough
in fresh, cool water in airtight jars to last you all winter. But you
can do still better with your rhubarb. You can add three months more and
make it nine months of the year for fresh, crisp, delicious fruit. I
will tell you how.
When your rhubarb gets 3-4 years old and very big and strong clumps of
roots, divide some of the best and make a new planting and dig some of
the balance before frost in the fall. Leave them on top of the ground
until they have had a good freeze--this is very essential to
success--then place the roots as you dug them in a dark corner in your
cellar or in a barrel in your cellar, exclude all light, keep the soil
moderately wet and after Christmas and until spring you will have an
abundance of brittle, fine flavored stalks that are fully equal to and
perhaps more tender than the outdoor grown. Years ago in Chicago I grew
rhubarb in a dark house 36×80 ft., built for that purpose, and the
stalks generally commanded a price of 12 to 15c a pound in the right
market in January, February and March.
It is better not to pull any stalks the summer you transplant, at least
not until September. Next year in May and June you can have stalks from
1/2 to 1 pound and over. When you pull stalks don't take the outer two
or three leaves but only the tender ones, and strip them off in
succession so you do not come back to the same plants to pull for four
to six weeks or more. Just as quick as the plant shows flower stems cut
them off close to the ground and keep them off, never allow them to show
their heads.
I have grown rhubarb for market and for domestic use for about forty
years, having one time as much as five acres, and I will assure you if
you will follow directions you will appreciate rhubarb more than before
and get out of it all it is worth.
* * * * *
TREES PLANTED BY MACHINE.--A machine which plants from ten to
fifteen thousand forest trees seedlings a day is now being used at the
Letchworth Park Forest and Arboretum, in Wyoming County, N. Y.,
according to officials of the Forest Service who are acting as advisers
in the work. Previously the planting had been done by hand at the rate
of 1,200 to 1,500 trees each day per man.
The machine was designed to set out cabbage and tomato plants, but works
equally well with trees. It is about the size of an ordinary mowing
machine and is operated by three men and two horses. One man drives the
team while the other two handle the seedlings. The machine makes a
furrow in which the trees are set at any desired distance, and an
automatic device indicates where they should be dropped. Two metal-tired
wheels push and roll the dirt firmly down around the roots. This is a
very desirable feature, it is said, because the trees are apt to die if
this is not well done. Two attachments make it possible to place water
and fertilizer at the roots of each seedling. Another attachment marks
the line on which the next row of trees is to be planted.
No cost figures are available yet, but officials say that the cost will
be much less than when the planting is done by hand. It is stated that
the machine can be used on any land which has been cleared and is not
too rough to plow and harrow.--U. S. Dept. Agri.
The Greenhouse versus Hotbeds.
FRANK H. GIBBS, MARKET GARDENER, ST. ANTHONY PARK.
In discussing the subject assigned me, I will only speak of hotbeds and
hothouses as used for the purpose of growing vegetables and early
vegetable plants.
The hotbed is still very desirable where it is wanted on a small scale
to grow early vegetables for the home or market, as the small cost for
an outfit is very small as compared to hothouses. Sash 4×5 ft., which is
the favorite size with market gardeners, can be purchased for about
$2.00 each glazed, and a box 5×16 ft. to hold four sash can be made for
$1.50, making an outlay less than $10.00 for 80 sq. ft. of bed. With
good care sash and boxes will last eight years.
Where the beds are put down in early February two crops of lettuce and
one crop of cucumbers can be grown, and when the spring is late three
crops of lettuce before outdoor lettuce appears on the market, when the
beds are given over entirely to the cucumber crop. Lettuce at that time
generally sells for 25c per dozen, and cucumbers from 50c down to 15c
per dozen, according to the season. From three to five hundred cabbage,
cauliflower or lettuce plants can be grown under each sash, or from 150
to 300 tomatoes, peppers or egg plants can likewise be grown under each
sash, or where lettuce is grown to maturity six dozen per sash.
The cost of the horse manure for the beds varies greatly, as some are
situated where it can be secured very reasonably, while with others the
cost would be prohibitive. The amount required also varies according to
the season they are put down. When the beds are put down early in
February, three cords of manure are necessary for each box. When they
are put down March 1st, one-half that amount is needed. Where there is
no desire to get the early market, and the beds are put down March 15th,
one cord is plenty for each box. I have never tried to figure out just
what the cost of putting down each box is, or what is the cost of
ventilating and watering; but if they are neglected and the plants get
burned or frozen, the cost is much more than if they were given proper
attention, and, besides, much time is lost in getting another start, as
they are generally left several days to see if the plants will recover,
which they seldom do.
The cost of hothouses varies so greatly for the size of the house that
it is hard to draw a comparison. A modern steel frame house containing
10,000 sq. ft. of glass can be built for about $4,000.00, or a house
one-half that size can be built for $10,000.00 and is no better than its
cheaper rival. A small house say 16×80 ft., heated with a brick furnace
and flue and hot water coil can be built for from $350.00 to $400.00,
where one does not have to hire skilled labor. A hothouse of any size is
very satisfactory, as in cold, stormy weather, when we can't even look
into a hotbed, plants can be kept growing and there is always something
we can do and be comfortable while we are doing it. It is impossible to
use a hotbed all winter, as no matter how much manure is put into it in
the fall it will cool out and be worthless long before spring.
[Illustration: Showing hotbeds and greenhouse at F. H. Gibbs' market
gardens.]
With a good hothouse four crops of lettuce can be raised during the fall
and winter, and a crop of cucumbers in the spring and early summer.
Each crop of lettuce sells for from 20c to 25c per dozen; the plants are
set six inches apart each way, making about four per square foot of
bench room.
The cucumber crop generally pays as well as two crops of lettuce and is
usually planted to come into bearing early in June and kept bearing
through July, or until the outdoor cucumbers are on the market. In the
so-called summer just passed (1915), there were no outdoor cucumbers,
and they were kept bearing through August and September. Cucumbers grown
in hotbeds cannot be kept in bearing more than six weeks before the
vines go to pieces and will not sell for as high a price as hothouse
grown. With favorable weather I have always thought I could grow a crop
of lettuce in less time in a hotbed than in a hothouse, but with cold,
cloudy weather the advantage is on the side of the hothouse. Much less
time is required to do the ventilating and watering in a hothouse than
with beds, and the soil must be in the highest state of fertility for
either one.
While hotbeds will always be desirable in many localities on account of
the small first cost, the days of the large commercial hotbed yard is
passed, and there are now around Minneapolis 5,000 hotbed sash that will
not be put down next spring, or if put down, used only on cold frames,
all owing to the scarcity of fresh horse manure.
While it is a great satisfaction to have a hothouse or hotbeds and grow
vegetables in winter, the life of the market gardener is not one
continuous round of pleasure, as lice, white fly, red spider and thrip,
mildew and fungous rot are always ready for a fight, and the gardener
must always be on his guard and beat them to it at their first
appearance, or the labor of weeks will be lost.
An Ideal Flower Garden for a Country Home.
M. H. WETHERBEE, FLORIST, CHARLES CITY, IOWA.
In laying out grounds for country homes or remodeling them, space should
be of the first importance, and where space permits there is no better
arrangement than a fine border on one side of the lawn with a driveway
between the lawn and the border, leading from the street to the house
and barns. The border should be wide enough to have a nice variety of
shrubs for a background, and there should be space for the hardy
perennials and bulbs, which should not be planted solidly but placed in
clumps and arranged according to height and blooming season and as to
color effect.
I will mention a few of the hardy shrubs and plants that we can all grow
with success. While the catalogues are filled with a large list of
so-called hardy stock, we must remember that we live in a good sized
country and what would be hardy in Southern Iowa, Missouri and Illinois,
would not stand the winters of Northern Iowa or of Minnesota or other
localities of the same latitude. In shrubs we can be sure of a variety
of lilacs, snowballs, and hydrangea paniculata. Some of the newer
varieties are fine and bloom in August, when few other shrubs are
flowering. Spirea Van Houttii, best known as Bridal Wreath, we might
include and a few of the hardy vines if a trellis or other support was
given for them, such as clematis paniculata, coccinea and jackmani, the
large purple and white honeysuckle, Chinese matrimony vine, etc.
Among hardy roses, which are called the queen of all flowers, are the
Rugosa type, which will stand the winters with no protection and
continue to flower all summer. While the flowers of that type are single
or semi-double, the bushes would be handsome without any flowers. This
type also produces hips, which adds to their attractiveness, and these
may be made into jelly in the fall if so desired. I would advise to
plant some of the most hardy of the hybrid perpetual roses, such as
General Jacqueminot, Magna Charta, Mrs. Chas. Wood, Mrs. John Lang, Mad.
Plantier, with some of the climbers, such as the Rambler in variety,
Prairie Queen, Baltimore Belle and, perhaps, some others, with the
understanding that the hybrids and climbers should have protection in
some form for the winter months.
Then in hardy perennials there is such a variety to select from that one
hardly knows where to begin or when to stop. Of course everyone wants a
few peonies, and some of the hardy phlox, in such a variety of color.
Then the delphinium, or hardy larkspurs, are fine bloomers. The blue and
white platycodon are sure to flower, while the German iris are good and
the Japan iris are fine flowers, but have to have good protection to
stand our winters. For fine white flowers we have the showy achilleas in
variety and gypsophila paniculata, called baby breath as a common name.
Then we must have plenty of space for a variety of annuals, such as
sweet peas, cosmos, pansies, verbenas, etc. Also, we would grow
geraniums in variety, a few summer carnations, and the selection can be
large or small, but almost every one will want some dahlia and gladiolus
bulbs. Those that like yellow, or lemon, lilies can plant them and have
a mass of flowers during June. The Japan lilies, especially the rubrum
variety, are good bloomers and quite hardy.
The Planting and Care of Hardy Perennials.
MISS GRACE E. KIMBALL, WALTHAM. (SO. MINN. HORT. SOCIETY.)
The most important essential in the planting of hardy perennials is the
preparation of the ground. It must be deeply spaded or plowed and
thoroughly pulverized. While most kinds of plants will do well in any
good garden soil, most gardens need more or less fertilizer to make the
ground good garden soil. So it is well at the time of spading or plowing
to see that enough fertilizer is applied to insure good growth and
blossom. But care must be used that no fresh stable manure comes in
contact with the roots. If it must be used see that it is put in the
bottom of the hole or trench dug for the plants, and covered several
inches with earth.
When the ground is well prepared and properly fertilized comes the
planting, and as many plants need somewhat different handling, it is
well for one starting a garden to understand just how each kind should
be set. The iris, for instance, likes to be very near the surface of the
ground. In fact it seems to delight in pushing the earth off the fleshy
part of the root and basking in the sun, while the small roots lie very
close to the surface. The oriental poppy must be planted with the crown
well above the ground, or else when any moisture settles on it the crown
will rot, and the plant die. The gaillardia, larkspur and columbine
should be planted about as the oriental poppy with the crowns perhaps
not quite as much above the ground, while the peony should be set so
that the bud is covered two or three inches.
Since fall planting of herbaceous perennials has come into prominence
one can choose either spring or fall for most of their planting, as most
plants do well set at either time. But the oriental poppy does not ship
nor transplant well in the spring. It dies down after blossoming--one
may think they have lost their plants then--and starts up again in
August or September. Just as it is starting then seems to be the safest
time to plant.
August and September are considered the best months to do fall planting,
although some advocate setting peonies until it freezes. Still I think
it safer to plant earlier than that.
If I were beginning a hardy garden, one that I could add to from time to
time, I would try to set out in the fall plants that bloom in the spring
or early summer, and in the spring those that bloom in the fall. Nothing
is gained by setting iris or peonies in the spring, for nine times out
of ten they will not bloom the same season they are set, while if set in
the fall nearly all varieties of either the iris or peony will bloom the
next year. On the other hand, phlox set in the spring scarcely ever
fails to bloom in the late summer or early fall, and keeps it up until
freezing weather. The phlox, however, should be taken up and divided
every two or three years to obtain the best results.
After planting comes the cultivating, which should be kept up all
summer. Especially after a rain should the ground be stirred to keep it
from baking. In exceedingly dry seasons by keeping a dust mulch around
the plants one can avoid having to do much watering--for unless you
water thoroughly at such a time it is better not to water at all.
However, if it finally becomes necessary to apply water, the dust mulch
has kept the ground in condition to absorb all the water that is used.
In the fall after the ground has frozen a light covering of some kind
should be thrown over the plants. This is to protect them from the
thawing and freezing that takes place from time to time during the
winter and early spring. After the first year, when the foliage has
increased so as to be some protection, it is not as necessary to cover,
although no doubt a little more covering would be beneficial. Some
growers of the peony, however, advocate cutting off the leaves in the
fall, and in such a case a covering would be necessary.
We found a very satisfactory way for both covering and fertilizing was
to throw a fork full of dressing around each plant in the fall and work
it into the ground in the spring.
IN MEMORIAM--J. F. BENJAMIN.
PASSED JULY 15, 1916. AGED 59 YEARS.
"John Franklin Benjamin was born at Belvidere, Illinois, May 6, 1857.
That same year his parents moved to Hutchinson and he, at the age of
five years, was one of the two score of little children who spent hours
of terror in the stockade when it was attacked by the Indians on
September 4, 1862. As he grew up he attended the Hutchinson school, his
boyhood being spent on the farm. He was married in October, 1889, to
Minnie L. Walker. The following year they moved to Pierce county, Neb.,
where Mr. Benjamin purchased and for ten years managed a large ranch. In
1890 they returned to Hutchinson and proceeded to open and improve
Highland Home Fruit Farm, which was thenceforth Mr. Benjamin's abiding
place until the summons came that ended all his earthly hopes and plans.
"He was an active factor in farmers' co-operative society affairs and
supported all movements for the moral and educational uplift of the
community. He had been for many years a member of the M. E. church and
of the Woodmen's and Royal Neighbors' camps and a valued and active
member of each of these societies.
[Illustration: John Franklin Benjamin.]
"Mr. Benjamin left no children, and the wife who has been his devoted
helpmate for twenty-seven years survives to face the coming years of
bereavement alone.
"His had been a useful life, a life of ceaseless and honorable toil,
and that beautiful and valuable property, Highland Home Fruit Farm,
largely the product of the work of his own hands, is a monument to his
memory which will long endure to be admired and enjoyed by others as one
of the model rural places of Minnesota. Few men in the space of
twenty-five years have accomplished more than did J. F. Benjamin in
establishing the fine, modern home, the large orchard and small fruit
and flower gardens and well stocked farm, all of which he had tended
with loving hands."
Mr. Benjamin was well known by the members of this society who have
attended its annual meetings within the last ten or fifteen years.
During this period he has been an active member of the society, often
serving on the program or in some other way as opportunity came to him.
He was one of the most loyal members of the association, practicing what
he preached, and doing all within his power to extend the usefulness of
the society. I had a close personal acquaintance with Mr. Benjamin and
the highest respect for his character and attainments. As a
comparatively young man we anticipated his presence with us for a long
period of time, but in this we are sadly disappointed. His wife in a
recent letter says, "One of his greatest pleasures was cultivating and
taking care of the flowers which surrounded his home. After a hard day's
work in the field, he would labor with his flowers and shrubbery until
far into the night. He enjoyed taking or sending flowers to the sick,
and many bouquets of his choicest blossoms he gave his friends as they
drove past or called to admire his beautiful grounds." In this spirit
Mr. Benjamin labored to reach others and widen the wholesome influence
of his life.--Sec'y.
PROGRAM 50th ANNUAL MEETING
Our Semi-Centennial Anniversary
Minnesota State Horticultural Society,
To be held in the West Hotel, Minneapolis, December 5, 6, 7, 8, 1916.
A Great Program.
Study this program carefully and select such features as you especially
desire to participate in--but you are more than welcome to all.
Discussion follows each topic.
Discussions are "free for all," whether members or not. Ask questions or
express opinions freely.
DEMONSTRATIONS.
These demonstrations will be given between 1:00 and 1:45 each day of the
meeting in rooms adjoining the hall in which the meeting is held. They
will be conducted by those whose names are here given, both of whom are
connected with the Horticultural Department at University Farm.
Grafting, Fred Haralson, Hort. Foreman. Pruning, Frank Daniels,
Instructor In Hort.
IMPORTANT.
All participants on this program are limited to fifteen minutes except
where a longer period is specifically mentioned.
Time for discussion is allowed after each number.
NOTICE OF BEE-KEEPERS' MEETING.
The Minnesota State Bee-Keepers' Society will hold its annual meeting in
the "Moorish Room," West Hotel, Minneapolis, on Tuesday and Wednesday,
Dec. 5 and 6, 1916. Program can be had of L. V. France, University Farm,
St. Paul.
NOTICE.--A bell will be rung five minutes before the exercises begin in
the Audience Room.
Persons entering the audience room when any one is addressing the
meeting from the platform are requested to take seats in the rear of the
room, going forward only after the speaker has concluded--and thus avoid
much confusion.
TUESDAY MORNING SESSION.
10:00 o'clock.
Every member attending should not fail to be in his seat promptly when
this session opens.
Invocation Rev. C. S. Harrison, York, Neb.
Song Mr. Trafford N. Jayne, Minneapolis
President's Annual Greeting Thos. E. Cashman, Owatonna
Top-Working Young Apple Trees.
E. G. Lee, St. Paul.
Evergreens.
C. S. Harrison, York, Neb.
Preparing and Handling the Apple Crop.
E. A. Smith, Lake City.
My Prize Orchard.
1. Henry Dunsmore, Olivia.
2. E. W. Mayman, Sauk Rapids.
Appointment of committees on award of premiums.
TUESDAY AFTERNOON SESSION.
1:30 o'clock.
A half hour "Question and Answer Exercise" on "Bees in the Garden and
Orchard," led by J. Kimball, of Duluth.
2 o'clock.
President Cashman in the Chair. Reception of Delegates.
FRUITS.
Strawberry Culture with Irrigation.
N. A. Rasmussen, Oskosh, Wis., President
Wisconsin State Hort. Society.
Raspberry Culture.
A. O. Hawkins, Wayzata.
Raspberry Diseases in Minnesota.
G. R. Hoerner, Asst. in Plant Pathology,
University Farm, St. Paul.
Everbearing Strawberry Field.
A. Brackett, Excelsior.
Everbearing Strawberries at Osage, Ia., in 1916.
Chas. F. Gardner, Osage, Ia.
Opening Up the Fruit Farm.
D. E. Bingham, Delegate Wisconsin
State Hort. Society, Sturgeon Bay, Wis.
The Native Plum, Its Hybrids and Their Improvement.
Dewain Cook, Jeffers.
Winter Injury to Plums in 1916-17.
M. J. Dorsey, Section of Fruit Breeding,
University Farm.
Lantern Talks.
1. Snapshots on the Road. Nurseries; Top-working; Blister Rust.
Prof. F. L. Washburn, State Entomologist,
University Farm.
2. Nature of Plant Diseases.
G. R. Bisby, Asst. Plant Pathologist,
University Farm.
TUESDAY EVENING SESSION.
8:00 o'clock.
MINNESOTA STATE FLORISTS' SOCIETY.
Prof. LeRoy Cady, President, in the Chair.
Program:
Storing and Handling Gladiolus Bulbs.
G. D. Black, Delegate, N. E. Ia. State
Horticultural Society, Independence, Ia.
Resources of Present-Day Florists.
W. E. Tricker, St. Paul.
Greenhouse Management.
Prof. Wm. Moore, University Farm.
Some Native Shrubs and Their Uses.
E. Meyer, Minneapolis.
WEDNESDAY FORENOON SESSION.
9:00 o'clock.
A half hour question and answer exercise on "The Vegetable Garden,"
led by Alfred Perkins, Market Gardener, St. Paul.
9:30 o'clock.
N. H. Reeves, Pres. Minneapolis Market Gardeners' Society, presiding.
The Vegetable Garden.
A Successful Cabbage Field.
E. C. Willard, Mankato.
Hotbeds and Cold Frames Nine Months In the Year. (30 min.)
N. A. Rasmussen. Pres. Wisconsin State
Hort. Society, Sturgeon Bay, Wis.
Improvement of Vegetable Varieties by Selection.
Richard Wellington, Horticulturist, University Farm.
Some Phases of Onion Growing.
W. T. Tapley, Asst. in Horticulture, University Farm.
Irrigation in the Market Garden.
C. E. Warner, Osseo.
The Cultivation of Cabbages.
Nic Lebens, Minneapolis.
Growing Radishes.
Chas. Hoffman, White Bear.
A Winter Garden In the Cellar.
N. A. Rasmussen, Sturgeon Bay, Wis.
Home Canning.
Mrs. Louis M. Glenzke, Hopkins.
WEDNESDAY AFTERNOON SESSION.
1:30 o'clock.
The Question and Answer Exercise to occupy this half-hour will be on
"The Flower Garden," and led by Mrs. H. A. Boardman, St. Paul.
2:00 o'clock.
President Cashman In the Chair.
My Spraying Experience--four five-minute paper.
1. Harold Simmons, Howard Lake.
2. E. Yanish, St. Paul.
3. A. H. Reed, Glencoe.
4. J. J. Dobbin, Excelsior.
Orchard Pests In Minnesota During 1916.
1. Diseases.
Prof. E. C. Stakman. Head of Section
Plant Pathology, University Farm.
2. Insects.
A. G. Ruggles, Asst. Entomologist,
University Farm.
3:15 o'clock.
MINN. GARDEN FLOWER SOCIETY.
Mrs. E. W. Gould, Pres., Minneapolis.
Some New Plants at Home and Abroad.
Professor N. E. Hansen, Brookings, S. D.
The Home Setting As the Architect Sees It.
Mr. Harry W. Jones, Minneapolis.
A Composite on Composites--Useful Plants for Fall Bloom.
Mrs. Phelps Wyman, Minneapolis.
Lantern Talk by E. G. Cheyney, Prof. of Forestry, State University.
Illustrated with many views from the forest regions of Northern
Minnesota.
WEDNESDAY EVENING SESSION.
7:30 o'clock, Dec. 6, 1916.
N. W. PEONY AND IRIS SOCIETY.
Fifteen-minute musical program by orchestra.
The Modern Iris.
Mr. C. S. Harrison, York, Neb.
Peonies, Their Care and Culture.
Mr. John E. Stryker, St. Paul, Minn.
Peonies for Pleasure.
Mr. Lee Bonnewitz, Van Wert, Ohio.
Peonies for Profit.
Mrs. Wm. Crawford, La Porte, Ind.
Peonies and Their Possibilities.
Mr. D. W. C. Ruff, St. Paul, Minn.
Music. Selection by Orchestra.
General Discussion.
THURSDAY FORENOON SESSION.
9:00 o'clock.
A thirty-minute "Question and Answer" exercise on "Success in
Orcharding," led by J. F. Harrison, a successful orchardist, Excelsior.
9:30 o'clock.
President Cashman in the Chair.
Evergreens for Prairie Homes.
M. Soholt, Madison.
Windbreaks by the Mile.
T. A. Hoverstad, Minneapolis.
Arrangement of Farm Buildings and Grounds for Convenience
and Artistic Effect.
E. M. Reeves, Waverly, Ia.
Report of Committee on Fruit List.
J. P. Andrews, G. W. Strand, T. E. Cashman.
Adoption of Fruit List.
Annual Reports.
Report of Executive Board, J. M. Underwood, Chairman, Lake City.
Report of Secretary, A. W. Latham.
Report of Treasurer, Geo. W. Strand, Taylors Falls.
On account of the very full program the annual reports of the
vice-presidents, superintendents of Trial Stations and Auxiliary
Societies, will be filed with the secretary for publication without
reading. (See list on page 20.)
The Successful Orchard. (30 min.)
S. A. Beach, Prof. of Horticulture, Iowa
State Agricultural College, Ames, Ia.
Development of Horticulture in Western
Canada.
Prof. F. W. Brodrick, Horticulturist,
Manitoba Agricultural College.
Contestants, Gideon Memorial Fund--by Students at University Farm
School.
THURSDAY AFTERNOON SESSION.
1:30 o'clock.
Discuss these subjects.
"Ornamentation of Home Grounds" will be the subject of the half-hour
"Question and Answer Exercise," led by C. H. Ramsdell, Landscape
Architect, Minneapolis.
2:00 o'clock.
President Cashman in the Chair.
Horticultural Work with the Boys' and Girls' Clubs in Minnesota.
T. A. Erickson, State Club Leader, University Farm.
Boy or Girl prize winner in the state-wide garden and canning contest.
Compulsory Spraying for Fruit Insects and Diseases.
K. A. Kirkpatrick, Agricultural Agent,
Hennepin County, Wayzata.
Annual Election of Officers.
3:00 o'clock.
Semi-Centennial Anniversary Session.
J. M. Underwood, Lake City, Presiding.
Song.
Trafford N. Jayne.
Some History.
A. W. Latham, Secretary.
The Heroes of Minnesota Horticulture.
Clarence Wedge, Albert Lea.
Personal Recollections.
A. J. Philips, West Salem, Wis.
The Ladies of the Society.
Mrs. Jennie Stager, Sauk Rapids.
Greeting from University Farm.
A. F. Woods, Dean.
The Minnesota Society and the Northwest.
Prof. C. B. Waldron, Agri. College, N. D.
Looking Ahead.
C. S. Harrison, York, Neb.
To conclude with a lantern slide talk, "Veterans of Minnesota
Horticulture." Slides prepared by Prof. LeRoy Cady.
FRIDAY FORENOON SESSION.
9:00 o'clock.
A thirty-minute "Question and Answer Exercise" on the general subject of
"Birds a Factor In Horticulture," led by R. E. Olmstead, Excelsior.
9:30 o'clock.
President in the Chair.
Potato Selection.
P. E. Clement, Moorhead.
Vinegar a By-Product of the Minnesota Orchard.
W. G. Brierley, Horticulturist, University Farm.
Our Horticultural Building.
A consultation.
Plant Breeders' Auxiliary.
Clarence Wedge, President, in the Chair.
Annual Report, 1916, Minn. Fruit Breeding Farm.
Chas. Haralson, Supt., Excelsior.
Report of Committee on Fruit Breeding Farm.
S. A. Stockwell, Minneapolis.
C. S. Harrison, Excelsior.
Fruit Breeding.
Prof. S. A. Beach, Horticulturist, Ames, Iowa.
Pedigree in Plants.
Prof. C. B. Waldron, Agricultural College, N. D.
Origin and Development of Hardy, Blight Resisting Pears.
Chas. G. Patten, Charles City, Ia.
New Creations in Horticulture for 1916.
Prof. N. E. Hansen, Brookings, S. D.
FRIDAY AFTERNOON.
1:30 o'clock.
The "Question and Answer" half hour will be occupied with this subject,
"The Home Orchard," led by Henry Husser, Minneapolis.
2:00 o'clock.
The Minnesota Orchard.
J. F. Bartlett, Excelsior.
The New Farmers Fruit.
Freeman Thorp, Hubert. (30 min.)
The Unfruitful Tree and How to Correct It. (30 min.)
Prof. S. A. Beach, Ames, Ia.
Orcharding In Minnesota.
Richard Wellington, Horticulturist, University Farm.
The Minnesota Apple Crop in 1916.
R. S. Mackintosh, Horticulturist, Extension Division, University Farm.
4:00 o'clock.
Two-minute speeches by members.
4:30 o'clock.
Closing remarks by the President.
PREMIUM LIST, ANNUAL MEETING, 1916.
Thos. Redpath, General Supt.
Geo. W. Strand, Clerk.
FLORAL DISPLAY.
W. H. Bofferding, 710 No. 2nd St., Minneapolis, Supt.
PLANTS.
To be staged Monday p.m., Dec. 4, 1916.
1st. 2nd. 3rd.
Collection of 12 specimen Palms $10.00 $7.00 $4.00
Collection of 12 specimen Ferns 10.00 7.00 4.00
Collection of 12 specimen
Blooming Plants 12.00 9.00 6.00
(Covering 25 square feet.)
CUT FLOWERS.
To be staged before 10:00 a.m., Tuesday, Dec. 5.
1st. 2nd. 3rd.
12 Roses, Red, any variety $3.00 $2.00 $1.00
12 Roses, Pink, any variety 3.00 2.00 1.00
12 Roses, White, any variety 3.00 2.00 1.00
12 Roses, Yellow, any var'ty 3.00 2.00 1.00
To be staged before 10:00 a.m., Wednesday, Dec. 6.
1st. 2nd. 3rd.
12 Chrysanthemums, Yellow $4.00 $3.00 $2.00
12 Chrysanthemums, any other color 4.00 3.00 2.00
25 Carnations, Red, any variety 3.00 2.00 1.00
25 Carnations, Pink, any variety 3.00 2.00 1.00
25 Carnations, white, any variety 3.00 2.00 1.00
To be staged before 10:00 a.m., Thursday, Dec. 7.
1st. 2nd. 3rd.
Basket arranged for effect,
diameter not to exceed
12 inches $10.00 $7.00 $4.00
Best Bridal Bouquet--Diploma.
Best Corsage Bouquet--Diploma.
Best Bridesmaid's Bouquet--Diploma.
VEGETABLES.
Entries to be made by Tuesday, Nov. 28. N. H. Reeves, Mpls., Supt.
1st. 2nd. 3rd. 4th.
Beets, 1 peck $3.50 $2.00 $1.00 $0.50
Cabbages, 3 heads 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Carrots, 1 peck 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Celery, 1 doz. stalks 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Celeriac, 1 doz. roots 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Lettuce, 1 doz. heads 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Onions, 1 peck Red 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Onions, 1 peck White 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Onions, 1 pk. Yellow 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Onions, 1 peck White Pickling 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Parsley, 1 doz. bnhs. 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Parsnips, 1/2 bushel 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Potatoes, 1 bu. early variety 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Pie Pumpkins, three specimens 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Radish, fresh, 1 doz. bunches 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Salsify, 1 doz. bnchs. 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Hubbard Squash, 3 specimens 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
White Turnips, 1 pk 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
Rutabagas, 1/2 bu 3.50 2.00 1.00 .50
EARLY WINTER SEEDLING.--The fruit shown must not have been kept in cold
storage. Premium $50.00, to be divided pro rata.
LATE WINTER SEEDLING.--Same conditions as for early winter seedlings
except that if found necessary the fruit shown may be retained and final
decision reserved until later in the winter. Premium $50.00 to be
divided pro rata.
In each of the above two classes the varieties receiving the three
highest awards will be designated as having received the first, second
and third premium respectively.
APPLES (not including crabs).
No inferior fruit can be shown.
1st. 2nd. 3rd.
Each variety (may or may
not have been in cold
storage) included in the
1916 fruit list of the society,
or in the 1916 premium
list of the Minnesota
State Fair $0.75 $0.50 $0.25
Collection, not to exceed
ten nor less than six varieties $20.00 to be divided pro rata
Pecks of Apples.
Peck of any variety of apples, the fruit exhibited to be at the disposal
of the society. An exhibitor may enter a peck of each of as many
different kinds as he pleases. $25.00 to be divided pro rata.
Top-Worked Apples.
Collection of named varieties grown on scions top-grafted on other
trees. Accompanying the name of each variety, shown on the same label
(to be furnished by the management), must be noted the name of the
variety on which it is top-worked. $25.00, to be divided pro rata.
BOXES AND BARRELS OF APPLES.
Must have been packed by the exhibitor.
Only one variety (not less than 2-3/4 in. in diameter) can be shown in a
box. Bushel boxes of the standard size must be used. Awards will be
based on the quality of the fruit, packing, etc.
SINGLE BOX of any variety of apples, including seedlings, $25.00, to be
divided pro rata. Also 1st $15.00, 2nd $10.00, 3rd $5.00.
1st. 2nd. 3rd. 4th.
BARREL of apples,
any variety, $25.00,
to be divided pro
rata. Also $20.00 $15.00 $10.00 $5.00
GRAPES.
1st. 2nd. 3rd.
Collection, not more than
10 nor less than 6 varieties $8.00 $6.00 $4.00
$100 SEEDLING APPLE PRIZE.
The fifth prize of $100.00 will be awarded this season "for the best
late winter seedling apple keeping till March 1st under ordinary cellar
conditions" under the offer made first in 1905, restricted, of course,
to the contestants who have duly registered.
NUTS.
1st. 2nd. 3rd. 4th.
Each variety of edible
nuts, one quart $1.00 $0.75 $0.50 $0.25
* * * * *
Program Notes:
You can become a life member of the State Horticultural Society by
payment of $10.00, in two annual payments of $5.00 each if you prefer.
This will entitle you to a file of our bound reports, a library in
itself.
The annual business meeting of the Minn. Garden Flower Society will be
held Wednesday morning at 10:00 o'clock in an adjoining room.
Are you a member of the Garden Flower Society? If you are growing
flowers you should join it at once. Consult the secretary, Mrs. M. L.
Countryman.
Membership fees to be paid to the Assistant Secretary In the Hallway.
GARDEN HELPS
Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society
Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So.
Minneapolis.
The Garden Flower Society will have an all-day meeting at the
Agricultural College the first Friday in January next. This meeting is
to be held with the session of the Farmers' Short Course in Room 20,
Horticultural Building. Arrangements will be made so that lunches may be
had on the grounds, probably at the dining hall.
The program covers a wide range of subjects, and as time will be given
for discussion and answering of questions brought up, this will prove a
most helpful meeting to all of our members.
Our own annual meeting will be held on Wednesday, December sixth. The
business meeting and election of officers being held in the morning, the
program in the afternoon--at the West Hotel--in connection with the
Horticultural Society.
Will not each member make an especial effort to bring in a new member at
that time or before? The only reason we have not a thousand members is
because we and our work are so little known. If you will tell your
friends who have gardens what we are doing, you will have no difficulty
in helping us add to our membership. Since last January we have received
sixty-six new members. Can't we make it an even hundred for this year?
With _your help_, we _can_. The program for our annual meeting will be
found in the official program, printed elsewhere in this number. Here is
the program for the meeting at the Agricultural College, Friday, January
5th. Come and bring your garden problems with you.
* * * * *
(Program for Meeting, January 5, 1917, 10 a.m., Agricultural College.)
1. Perennials for Busy People Mrs. H. B. Tillotson
2. Perennials from Seed to Seed Mr. E. Meyer
3. Native Perennials for Garden Use Miss M. Fanning
4. Best Hardy Vines and Their Use Mrs. E. W. Gould
5. Best Annuals Mrs. H. A. Boardman
1:30 P.M.
1. Fruits for Ornamental Planting Mr. Phelps Wyman
2. Native Shrubs for the Home Grounds Mr. Paul Mueller
3. Proper Preparation of the Garden Soil Professor F. J. Alway
4. A Watering System for the Garden Mrs. C. E. Warner
5. Growing Bedding Plants for the Market Mrs. F. H. Gibbs
6. Growing Cut Flowers for the Market {Miss Sabra Ellison
{Mr. F. H. Ellison
7. Special Purpose Plants--
Honey Plants Prof. Oswald
Medicinal Plants Dr. Newcomb
Question Box.
SECRETARY'S CORNER
THIS IS YOUR VACATION.--If you are a fruit grower or a flower
grower or vegetable grower or interested in home life or in any of the
varied matters directly or indirectly connected with horticulture, the
annual meeting is just the place for you. _Make it a real winter
vacation._ Bring your wife and others of the family if possible and stay
with us at the West Hotel for the four days of the meeting. It will be
one of the bright spots in your life, as you recall the pleasures of
this great and fruitful gathering.
ANNUAL SOCIETY BANQUET.--Special pains have been taken in
preparing the program for this banquet on account of the fact that this
is our anniversary session in part, and you will not be disappointed if
you anticipate a rich treat, with two or three hundred of the most
congenial people on earth, who will sit down to supper together at the
West Hotel at 6:30 p. m., Thursday, December 7th,--a wholesome repast
and an intellectual feast, don't miss it. You will feel that you really
belong to the brotherhood after dining with us.
DELEGATES TO THE ANNUAL MEETING.--Besides the delegates at our
annual meeting from abroad referred to in the November number, there is
to be with us also as representative of the Iowa State Horticultural
Society, Mr. P. F. Kinne, of Storm Lake, Iowa. We have pretty good
assurance also that Secy. Greene, of the Iowa Society, will visit with
us at some time during the meeting, and we don't know how many more of
the good Iowa people will find their way here. A late note from Chas. G.
Patten assures us of his attendance at the meeting, when he will give us
a full report of his experimental work in growing seedling pears at his
station at Charles City, Iowa. We are looking forward confidently to
something of large practical value from his work.
PROGRAM OF ANNUAL MEETING.--The program of the coming annual
meeting of the society will be found in an abbreviated form in this
number of our magazine. It has been sent, however, in all its
completeness, in a separate enclosure to all the members of the society,
accompanied by a blank form to be filled out by members who purpose to
attend and desire to have their names in the Badge Book, and also for
those who renew their memberships. Quite a number of questions are asked
on this blank form, and it is important that they should all be
answered. It is especially important that the names of friends whom you
would like to see members of the society should be given to the
secretary on these blanks and at an early date so that copies of the
program can be sent them in good season.
The program, as you will note, is an exceedingly diversified one,
special emphasis being laid on orcharding, vegetable growing and
ornamental horticulture. An increasing interest in flower growing is
emphasized by the programs of three auxiliary societies devoted to these
branches of horticulture.
_Aren't you coming to this splendid meeting?_ Study the program and
consider the advantages of intercourse and companionship with those who
have so much in common as the members of the Horticultural Society.
Don't fail to _attend promptly the first session_, which is always a
full one, right on the minute.
JOURNAL OF ANNUAL MEETING, 1915
Minnesota State Horticultural Society
Held on Second Floor of the West Hotel, Minneapolis, December 7, 8, 9
and 10, 1915.
Tuesday Morning Session, 10 o'clock.
Meeting was opened at 10 o'clock a.m., December 7, 1915, by President
Thomas E. Cashman. Invocation was made by Rev. C. S. Harrison, of York,
Nebraska, which was followed by a song by Mr. Trafford N. Jayne, of
Minneapolis. The president then read his annual greeting. (See index.)
President Cashman: How may University Farm and the Minnesota State
Horticultural Society be mutually helpful in developing the farms and
homes of the Northwest? by our good friend, the dean of agriculture of
this state, Mr. A. F. Woods. (Applause.) (See index.)
Discussion.
President Cashman: Anything further before we pass to the next subject?
If not, we will now call on one of our oldest members and one of our
best friends, Mr. George J. Kellogg, of Wisconsin, who will tell us
something about the strawberry business. (See index.)
Discussion.
President Cashman: I am sure we are all very much indebted to Mr.
Kellogg. Now, we have another very good friend with us from Nebraska. He
is going to tell us about "The Nurseryman as King." Mr. C. S. Harrison,
of York, Nebraska. (See index.)
President Cashman: This morning we heard from our good friend, Dean
Woods, then we heard from Wisconsin and later from Nebraska. We have
enjoyed all three, all very instructive and very entertaining, and we
hope to hear from them again. We hope later to hear from another
Wisconsin man, Mr. Philips. Those three men have always contributed a
great deal to the success of our meetings. I understand that Wisconsin
has sent another representative, Mr. A. C. Graves, of Sturgeon Bay. It
has been announced that he is with us. If so, we will be pleased to have
him come forward and have a word of greeting from him, representing the
Wisconsin Horticultural Society.
Mr. Graves: Mr. President and members of the Minnesota Horticultural
Society: I am very pleased to be here this morning and listen to this
program and these deliberations. I expect to spend some enjoyable days
with you, and on behalf of the Wisconsin Horticultural Society I am
pleased to bring to you their greetings on this occasion. Thank you.
(Applause.)
President Cashman: We hope to hear from you later, Mr. Graves, and would
be pleased to have you take part in our deliberations. I presume that
there are other delegates here, but if so they have not been announced.
If there are others I hope they will hand their credentials to the
secretary so we may call on them later.
Meeting adjourned until 1:30 p.m.
December 7, 1915, Afternoon Session.
_The Minnesota Orchard._ Discussion led by J. P. Andrews, Faribault,
Minn. (See index.)
The President: Ladies and gentlemen, the time has now arrived to
continue with the regular proceedings of the society. Mr. Rasmussen,
president of the Wisconsin State Horticultural Society, is with us and
will be on the program later, but we will have a few words from him now.
(Applause.).
Mr. Rasmussen (Wisconsin): Mr. President and members of the Minnesota
Horticultural Society: I didn't expect to be caught this way. I was
going to be real shrewd, I was not going to let you know I was coming. I
told the secretary of our society not to let you know I was coming, but
he notified your secretary that I was coming and that is the way they
happened to get me on the program. I was going to sneak in and get all
the good out of it and was not going to give anything back; I will admit
that is not a fair game. I feel about like a fellow who had to make a
talk at a banquet. He said he was not a speaker, but they insisted. They
would not let him back out. So he got up and feeling kind of shaky, like
I am now, he reached his hand down to get hold of his chair, as he
thought, but touched his wife's shoulder, and she got up. She thought
she had to. He started, "Ladies and gentlemen, this thing was forced on
me. (Laughter.)" So this was kind of forced upon me. I know that your
program is full so I will not detain you any longer. My time is
tomorrow, and I will take you through my garden tomorrow. (Applause.)
The President: We are all pleased to have Mr. Rasmussen with us, and we
hope we will hear from him often during the deliberations of the
meeting. I was pleased indeed to see so many present this forenoon.
Secretary Latham thought he had plenty of room for all who might attend,
but I don't think there was a vacant chair here this forenoon. I was
pleased indeed to note so many new faces, so many young men present. You
are the people we want to see. The older men have always contributed and
done their part and have made these meetings a grand success, but it
will soon devolve upon the younger men of this society to take their
places. We want you to help them at these meetings, and I was glad that
you did so this forenoon. We hope that the young men will feel at home
and that they will continue to take part, that they will ask questions
and tell us about their successes and their failures, and I hope the
older members will help make it pleasant for these young men.
We will take up the subject of fruits this afternoon, and I am now going
to call on a plum specialist, a man that we look to to tell us about the
plum troubles in this state, Mr. Dewain Cook, who will tell us about the
"Plums We Already Have and Plums That Are on the Way--the Brown Rot a
Controlling Factor," Mr. Dewain Cook, of Jeffers, Minnesota. (See
index.)
Discussion.
The President: We have heard of some of the troubles of those that plant
plum trees. The next speaker will probably tell us how to meet those
troubles, how to combat the plum pocket fungus. We are fortunate to have
with us a scientific man that makes a study of these subjects. I refer
to Professor Stakman, of the University Farm, St. Paul. "The Control and
Cure of Brown Rot, etc.," by Prof. E. C. Stakman. (See index.)
Discussion.
The President: I will now call on Mr. C. A. Pfeiffer, of Winona, to talk
to us on "The Surprise Plum a Success." (See index.)
Discussion.
The President: "Thirty Years in Raspberries," by a gentleman that knows
how to make money by the raising of raspberries, Mr. Gust. Johnson, of
Minneapolis. (See index.)
Discussion.
The President: We will now call upon Mr. Simmons to tell us about "My
Orchard Crop of 1915--from Start to Finish." (See index.)
The President: As you know, Mr. Simmons is one of the most successful
orchardists in Minnesota. Do you wish to ask him any questions?
Discussion.
Mr. Cashman: We are very much indebted to Mr. Simmons for this splendid
paper and for his advice. We must hurry on to the next subject, which is
"Fruit Growing a Successful Industry in Minnesota," by A. W. Richardson,
Howard Lake, Minn. (See index.)
The President: I am sure you will all agree this was a very instructive
and interesting paper. We have about three minutes in which to discuss
it.
Discussion.
Two lantern talks followed--one by Earl Ferris of Hampton, Ia., on
"Evergreens," and one by A. G. Tolaas on "Diseases of the Potato."
December 8, 1915, Morning Session.
Discussion on "The Vegetable Garden," led by H. J. Baldwin, Northfield,
Minn. (See index.)
N. H. Reeves, president Minneapolis Market Gardeners' Association, in
the chair.
President Reeves: We will now have a paper on "Growing Beans and Sweet
Corn," by P. B. Marien, of St. Paul. (See index.)
Discussion.
The President: We will now listen to a paper on "Growing Vegetables for
Canning," by Mr. M. H. Hegerle, president of Canning Company, St.
Bonifacius. Mr. Hegerle not being present, we will ask Mr. Rasmussen,
president of the Wisconsin Horticultural Society, to tell us "How We
Grow Vegetables in Oshkosh, Wisconsin." (Applause.) (See index.)
President Reeves: Is Mr. Hegerle in the room?
Mr. Hegerle: Yes.
President Reeves: Then we will listen to Mr. Hegerle's talk on "Growing
Vegetables for Canning." (See index.)
Discussion.
President Reeves: "Greenhouse vs. Hotbeds, Investment, Care and Result
Compared," by Mr. F. H. Gibbs. (See index.)
President Reeves: "Growing the Tomato," by C. W. Purdham, market
gardener, Brooklyn Center. (See index.)
Discussion.
President Reeves: We will now listen to a paper by E. W. Record on
"Asparagus by the Acre." (See index.)
President Reeves: You will be entertained with a demonstration of the
coldpack method of canning fruits and vegetables by Professor R. S.
Mackintosh and Miss Mary L. Bull.
After the demonstration the session adjourned until 1:30 o'clock p.m.
December 8, 1915, Afternoon Session.
Question and answer exercise on "The Flower Garden," led by Mr. G. C.
Hawkins, of Minneapolis.
The President: I regret to have to announce that one of the big guns who
was to be with us on this afternoon's program, Professor J. C. Whitten,
of Missouri, is unable to be with us on account of sickness. Secretary
Latham received a letter from him just a short time ago, stating that he
was sick abed and the doctor would not permit him to leave. We have
another very able gentleman whom I will call upon at this time to take
Mr. Whitten's place. His name is H. G. Street, of Hebron, Ill., who will
tell us about "Marketing Fruit Direct." (Applause.) (See index.)
Discussion.
The President: We appreciate very much this fine paper by Mr. Street. We
have another very important subject this afternoon. We will have a paper
by Mr. W. G. Brierly, Assistant Horticulturist at the University Farm,
on "The Manufacture of Cider Vinegar on the Farm." (Applause.) (See
index.)
Reading by Miss Mary Bonn.
The President: We will now turn the meeting over to the Garden Flower
Society and request the president, Mrs. Ruff, to take the chair. (In the
absence of Mrs. Ruff, Mrs. E. W. Gould presided.)
Mrs. Gould: Our first number will be a paper on the Minnesota State
Flower, by Mr. E. A. Smith, of Lake City. (Applause.)
Mr. Smith: I wish to add one word to the name of my paper and that is
"Flag," so that it will read "Minnesota State Flower and State Flag." I
have the two subjects so closely associated that I can not separate
them. (See index.)
Discussion.
Mr. Smith: I now come to the point in my paper. I move you, Madam
President, that the Minnesota State Horticultural Society and its
auxiliary societies through its secretary present the following
resolution to the next legislature of the state for adoption at that
time: Resolved, that, whereas the State of Minnesota has adopted a state
flower which, on account of its being a native of the woods and bogs, is
not generally known or recognized and, whereas, the State of Minnesota
in 1893 adopted by legislative vote a state flag, which emblem is not
generally known to the residents of the state, and believing that
familiarity with the state flower and the state flag will do good and
create loyalty to the state and Union, be it resolved, that we, the
Minnesota State Horticultural Society and auxiliary societies, do hereby
petition and pray the state legislature of Minnesota to have printed an
attractive picture of the state flower and the state flag, properly
framed, and present a copy of it to each public school of the state with
the request that it be placed upon the walls of the school room, also
that it be furnished free of cost to such other public buildings as may
be deemed advisable.
I trust, Madam President, that this resolution will not only be seconded
but it will meet with the unanimous approval of the society.
Mr. Hawkins: I second the motion.
Mrs. Gould: I do not know that we could vote with the Horticultural
Society. This is not a meeting of that society but simply a meeting of
the Flower Society. Will some one enlighten me?
Miss White: Madam President, if we could not vote as a society, could we
not vote to recommend this resolution to the Horticultural Society?
A Member: Yes, or to the two societies to be taken up at their business
meeting, perhaps.
Miss White: Recommend it be passed by the parent society.
A Member: Madam President, why should it not be the flag itself and not
a picture of the flag?
Mrs. Gould: Will you make that motion?
Miss White: I move that the resolution as presented by Mr. Smith be
endorsed by this Garden Flower Society and referred to the parent
society for their adoption. I will offer that as a substitute.
A Member: I second the motion.
Motion was carried.
Mrs. Gould: Our next subject is "The Pergola, Its Use and Misuse, Its
Convenience and Expense," by Charles H. Ramsdell, of Minneapolis. (See
index.)
Mrs. Gould: Our next paper is "Hardy Perennials," by Miss Grace E.
Kimball, of Waltham. (See index.)
Mrs. Gould: This spring our president, Mrs. Ruff, offered prizes for the
best papers on planting for color effect. The judges after reading these
papers carefully selected three. Miss Starr is first, Mrs. Tillotson
second and Mrs. Boyington third. These papers will now be read, Miss
Starr giving the first one. (See index.)
Mrs. Gould: Mrs. Tillotson will follow with her paper. (See index.)
Mrs. Gould: Mrs. Wyman will read Mrs. Boyington's paper. Mrs. Boyington
was unable to be with us today. (See index.)
Mrs. Gould: Mrs. Countryman will read a paper written by Mr. Swanson on
the judging of flowers. (See index.)
Mrs. Gould: Our meeting will close with Professor Washburn's talk on
"Bird Conservation," which will be given with slides and music.
Professor Washburn gives lantern talk.
December 9, 1915, Morning Session.
Half hour question and answer exercise on "Truck Crop and Garden
Insects," led by Professor Wm. Moore. (See index.)
The President: The committee on fruit list has been working very hard
trying to determine why we have particular varieties on the list and the
changes, if any, that should be made. Mr. J. P. Andrews, the chairman of
the committee, is the man who has been doing most of this work, and we
will be glad to hear from him at this time. He is quite radical and in
favor of many changes as you will note when he reads his report.
Mr. Andrews: There are very few changes, and you know it has been the
policy of this society rather to be conservative and not jump at
anything until we know what it is. (Reads new fruit list.)
Mr. Andrews: I move its adoption.
Motion was seconded and carried unanimously.
Mr. Andrews: I would like to call attention to the fact that a great
many criticize that we do not change the list from time to time. I have
thought that for a long time. Two or three years ago there was a little
move towards making it so we could change it. We are putting up some
nice, big premiums for late winter apples and early winter apples, and
there are undoubtedly some seedlings that would be all right to put upon
the list if we knew more about them. It seems to me it is foolish to pay
those premiums and then drop it right there. We do not know any more
about whether they are hardy or not than if they had been grown in
Missouri. They may have grown well through some protection or favorable
location, but when you commence grafting from a seedling it does not
give satisfaction as a grafted tree and in different localities of the
country.
We want to know whether the new seedlings are hardy enough for this
climate, not that they are simply of good quality to eat and perhaps
will keep. We find that out here, but we do not find out anything about
the hardiness.
I think we ought to require a person who has produced a good seedling
and gotten a good premium for it to send some of its scions to the
superintendent of the Fruit-Breeding Farm for testing and let him send
it out to points north of here, between here and the northern part of
the state, to see how much hardiness it has. Hardiness is the quality we
want more than anything else. We have gotten along so far with the
Hibernal, and we ought not to be so particular about quality as about
hardiness. They ought to be required to give Mr. Haralson a few of the
scions or buds so that he could try them there at the fruit-breeding
farm and send them out to more northern locations under number, so that
the originator will be just as well protected, and it will add so much
to the value of the new seedling that he ought to be anxious to do it
instead of holding it back as is now done.
I move you that we have some arrangement whereby those drawing the
premiums for the first and second qualities, keeping qualities and
eating qualities, etc., shall be obliged to give to Mr. Haralson
something to work on, either scions or buds of those varieties, so that
they can be tested in that way and we know what they are, otherwise it
leaves it for any one to introduce a new variety just about on the same
ground that some other varieties have been introduced in the state, made
a nice, large thing for the man that introduced them to the public and
sold them but afterwards proved a great disappointment to almost every
man who ever planted them. I move that we make such an arrangement, and
we recommend that the state fair do the same.
Mr. Horton: I second the motion.
The President: It is moved and seconded that some arrangement be made
requiring people who enter seedling apples for prizes at the
horticultural meeting and the state fair to furnish scions or buds of
such varieties to the central station to Superintendent Charles Haralson
that he may determine whether the trees are hardy and suitable for this
climate or not.
Mr. Andrews: We need this provision so that Superintendent Haralson
could visit those trees and see what they looked like.
Mr. Latham: I move that this matter be referred to the executive board
to develop a workable plan to secure the purposes which Mr. Andrews has
in view.
The President: Do you accept that as a substitute?
Mr. Andrews: I would if it wasn't for this one thing. It was left that
way a year or two ago, and it hasn't amounted to a thing. I do not care
if it is left to the executive committee if Mr. Latham will vouch for
its being put through.
Mr. Latham: Don't you remember as the result of that action we prepared
forms to be used by those who examined the seedlings and decided what
seedlings should be further tested and all that sort of thing. We have
those forms for use if the committee wants to use them.
Mr. Andrews: Those ought to be so as to hold the premium money back
until we get some material to test.
Mr. Latham: I will say a few words. It is not such a simple matter as it
seems. Here come perhaps fifty people who have grown seedlings. We tell
them we are very desirous that all the seedlings in the state that have
promise of merit be shown. In the division of the premium money they do
not get more than four or five dollars apiece, the best of them do not
get more than eight or ten dollars. Then here comes a resolution which
says, "Before you draw this money you have to furnish scions to the
state fruit-breeding farm with the privilege of sending out to other
stations in the state for testing." The average man who owns a seedling
that is really a good thing begins to think about it, and we will not
get what we want. If a man has a seedling that is better than the
Duchess and Wealthy and has hardiness as well there are lots of buyers
around here that have their eyes open. There has been a half a dozen I
know of picked up in the last few years really first class, fine and
hardy. Those trees are being tested out. It would be a splendid thing if
we could get a really good seedling, as Mr. Andrews says, but a
resolution of this kind will not result in doing what we want to do.
I would like to have it referred to the executive board so they can work
out a practical plan. Mr. Andrews is a member of the board. I renew my
motion.
Motion is seconded.
The President: The original motion as given by Mr. Andrews is that those
people offering seedlings for prizes, before they receive premiums--
Mr. Andrews: The first or second premiums, I said, because that would
shut out all of the others.
The President:--before receiving the first or second premiums, that they
be required or that they will agree to furnish scions or buds for
experimental purposes, these scions or buds to be sent to the central
station to Mr. Haralson for the purpose of testing them out as to
hardiness, under number. Now, the amendment made by Mr. Latham is to the
effect that this matter be referred to the executive committee. We will
first put the amendment that it be referred to the executive committee
to work out a practical plan.
Mr. Heustis: And report next year.
The President: That they work out a practical plan and put it in
operation. Was it your idea that we report next year or that the plan be
put in operation?
Mr. Latham: No objection to reporting next year. If they can work out a
plan they can also put it in practical operation.
Mr. Andrews: I do not think that I am after this now, gentlemen, any
more than every one of you ought to be after it. We ought to know more
about the hardiness of these trees. This list has stood almost
identically the same list for eight or nine years, pretty nearly the
same, and we are not getting ahead at all. We do not know any more about
the hardiness of these trees we have been putting out than we did
before.
The amendment was carried.
The President: This matter will therefore be referred to the executive
board. The next in order is the annual report of the executive board,
Mr. J. M. Underwood, of Lake City, chairman. Mr. Underwood is sojourning
in the sunny south. He has sent a report, however, to Secretary Latham,
and Mr. Latham has requested me to read it. This was written at St.
Augustine, Florida. (See index.)
The President: Any one wish to make any comments on this report? If not,
we will pass to the report of the secretary, Mr. Latham.
Mr. Latham: Do you wish to have the report read or have it published
later? It will be published anyway.
Mr. Miller: Let it be considered as read and approved and filed for
publication. (See index.)
Motion is seconded and carried.
The President: We will now have the report of George W. Strand,
treasurer. (See index.)
The President: What will you do with the report of the treasurer? You
have heard the reading of it.
Upon motion the report was adopted and filed.
The President: The next order of business would be the paper by
Professor J. C. Whitten but Mr. Whitten is not present, I am sorry to
say, and I am now going to call on Mr. O. M. Heustis as he is present to
tell us about his "Dwarf Apple Trees." (See index.)
The President: We are very much indebted to the doctor for his
interesting talk. Is Professor Mackintosh in the room? I was going to
ask him to read a paper on "Successful Cold Storage Plant for Apples,"
sent in by Mr. Hanson. I am sorry that Mr. Hanson is not able to be
present, he is ill at home.
Professor Mackintosh not being present, paper was read by Mr. Clarence
Wedge.
The President: Mr. Wedge will have a word for us at this time. He has a
suggestion to make.
Mr. Wedge: Ladies and gentlemen, fellow members: Once a year our society
has been in the habit of bestowing the highest honor within its gift
upon some of the members that have honored the society for so many years
with their services and have made themselves in that way so valuable to
the public that we feel that they deserve the highest recognition which
we are able to give them as a society. It becomes my great pleasure at
this time, standing in the place of my friend, Mr. Underwood, who is
absent, to propose the following names to you which have been
recommended by the executive board for this honor. There are five of
them, the names are: John Bisbee, of Madelia; Charles Haralson, our
superintendent at Excelsior; Mr. F. W. Kimball, of Waltham; Mr. John R.
Cummins, of Minneapolis, and Mr. S. H. Drum, of Owatonna.
Mr. Bisbee has undertaken and is carrying on one of the largest
experiments in seedling apples in the Northwest. He seems to be a very
quiet member among us, but he is one of the working members who are
doing the things that the society most needs.
I do not need to tell you anything about the work of Charles Haralson,
the superintendent of our fruit-breeding farm at Zumbra Heights. His
work has approved itself to us all so much that I think he really
deserves the statement that was made by one of our older members that he
has outdone Burbank. He certainly has for this part of the country.
Mr. F. W. Kimball, a very dear personal friend of mine, has been
carrying on experiments in orcharding for the past twenty-five years
about, in the neighborhood of Austin, Minnesota, and has now removed to
Waltham. His experiments there in top-working have been among the most
useful and among the largest that have been undertaken in any part of
the state. He perhaps deserve the same reputation in our state that our
friend, Mr. Philips, has in Wisconsin. I do not want to say this to
disparage anybody else, but he has certainly made a very large and very
valuable addition to our knowledge of the value of top-working.
Mr. John R. Cummins, of Minneapolis, whom we have with us this morning,
is one who has been a very persistent experimenter in all lines. I
remember particularly going to his place some ten or fifteen years ago
and going over the remarkable collection of ornamental trees and plants
that he was growing, many of which I did not think it was possible to
grow at Albert Lea, and there he was succeeding with them and
developing them at a point 100 miles north of us. We certainly owe him
a deal of credit for his perseverance and his enterprise. We are glad
that he is with us today.
Mr. S. H. Drum, of Owatonna, is one who has also been one of our most
faithful members, whose experiments have been in fruits, and he has
brought great encouragement to us in the southern part of Minnesota. He
has now moved to Owatonna and, not being content with the best, he has
started out with a new plantation with two kinds of fruit, and I think
he is topping the market with the very best.
Mr. President, I move that these names be added to the list of honorary
life members of the Minnesota Horticultural Society.
There are several seconds to the motion.
The President: A very fitting tribute, I am sure. Are there any remarks?
The name of Mr. Cummins calls my attention to the fact that about twelve
years ago he presented this society with the gavel that I hold in my
hand. This gavel is made of black walnut grown by Mr. Cummins on his own
place. I do not suppose that he made the gavel himself, but it is made
of material raised on his own farm, and when this gavel comes down good
and hard I want you to think of Mr. Cummins. Are you ready for the
question, that those gentlemen suggested be made honorary life members?
Motion is carried unanimously.
The President: I am now going to call on the young men from the
University Farm who are contestants for the Gideon Memorial Fund. (See
index.)
Contestants thereupon read their essays.
The President: I will now ask the judges to retire and decide which of
these young men is entitled to this prize money. For the benefit of some
of the newer members who may not understand the situation I will say
that some years ago a number of the members of this society believed
that we should commemorate the good work done by Peter M. Gideon. A sum
of money was raised to be known as the Gideon Memorial Fund. It was
decided that that money be placed at interest and that the interest
derived therefrom be offered as prizes to young men attending our
agricultural school or college. They were to deliver addresses at the
meetings of the Minnesota Horticultural Society, and the young men
preparing the best papers and making the best talks would be awarded
this prize money, the accrued interest from this fund. So we have
annually three young men from the agricultural college that present
papers or make addresses on subjects that are of importance to this
society. This is a memorial for Peter M. Gideon, who has done such
splendid work for the fruit raisers of the Northwest.
While we are waiting for the report of the judges I will ask Mr. Ludlow
to come forward and tell us about a letter that he received from Peter
M. Gideon, November 2, 1885, and which was accompanied by Mr. Gideon's
last catalog.
Judges announce their decision. (Applause.)
_Premiums Awarded to Gideon Memorial Contestants_:
1. The Plum Curculio--Edward A. Nelson.
2. Standardizing the Potato--A. W. Aamodt.
3. Marketing Fruit at Mankato--P. L. Keene.
The President: I am now going to call on some of the delegates to this
meeting. Mr. George H. Whiting, representing the South Dakota
Horticultural Society, we will ask him to come forward and say a word.
Mr. Whiting: Mr. President, ladies and gentlemen: I do not know why Mr.
Cashman should ask me to come forward. I have not very much to say and
could have said it back there just as well. Perhaps you will wish I had
stayed back there.
I will say it is a pleasure to me to be with the Minnesota
horticulturists again. I have met with you quite a number of years but
not in the capacity of delegate. I did not expect to be a delegate this
time, thought I would leave the place for some younger man, but there
seemed to be no other present, and so I had to accept. I rather felt as
though I was not competent or did not care to take the responsibility of
making a report. I am getting old and a little tired, and I do not like
to do so much of that kind of work as I used to. However, I presume I
will have to do the best I can and let it go at that.
I will say you have a wonderful society here. It is a wonder to me
sometimes how you keep up the interest, how to keep up so much interest
in this work. There is no other state in the Union that has such a good,
live society. I attended a great many of the state societies last year.
I had the pleasure of attending the Missouri State Society. I can say
that you discount them and then some. An old state like Missouri and a
fruit state, you might say, it is supposed to be in the fruit belt, and
still you fellows up north here have all the vim and the snap and
determination to do things that those fellows do not do at all. It is
more in the man, I think sometimes, than it is in the location.
It used to be said that Minnesota was not a fruit state, you could not
grow apples in Minnesota. Well, I believe Mr. Gideon said that if he
could not grow apples in Minnesota he would not live there, something to
that effect, and he did not intend to leave the state either. Now, you
all know what success he made, and you that follow have a great deal to
be thankful for the work he did, and you are hoping--and I presume you
will be successful--to obtain an apple that is even better than the
Wealthy.
I am glad that you take so much interest in this matter of new
seedlings. It will surely develop something some day, there is no
question about it. Of course, you cannot tell when, and you cannot tell
who will be the lucky man to get the thousand dollars, but undoubtedly
there is more at stake than the thousand dollars; that is a very small
item.
I think I will not take up your time. It is getting on, and I have not
thought of making any talk, have nothing prepared and nothing in my
head. I thank you for your attention. (Applause.)
The President: I am going to call on our good friend, Professor Hansen,
secretary of the South Dakota Horticultural Society, who has done so
much for us.
Mr. Wedge: Mr. Hansen is not here. I just want to say a word that might
interest some of the younger members of the society in regard to our
friend who has just left the floor, Mr. Whiting, of Yankton. He is the
original Dakota nurseryman, who went out in the days of the pioneers
before I think there was any such thing as South Dakota, and he has
stayed on the job ever since. That is not so wonderful, for others, lots
of people, have stayed on the job, but he has made money out of the
business and got rich. I think he deserves some very special praise.
(Applause.)
The President: Is Professor Waldron in the room? Here he comes. He is
the leading light of North Dakota and a gentleman who has been with us
before. (Applause.)
Mr. Waldron: These people will think North Dakota is a dark place if
this is a leading light. What is the occasion of this?
The President: Tell us your troubles.
Mr. Waldron: When we had a good wheat crop we did not have any troubles.
We forget our other troubles whenever we can get something like 100
million bushels of wheat. Our horticultural troubles have been quite
numerous. We had a frost every year, including July. We started in on
the ninth day of June with a frost that killed everything in sight
except a few cottonwood trees and things like that, but all of our
tomatoes, which were in blossom by the way at that time because we had a
favorable spring, and plums and apples went the same way. I think a few
of the late blooming plums managed to survive. The frost in July did not
hurt very much but the frost in August certainly finished us.
Mr. Latham: The reporter is taking all that.
Mr. Waldron: Our reputation is so good, we can own up to calamity once
in a while. Of course, if our reputation was not better than others we
would have to keep it dark, but inasmuch as nature favors us so
continuously we can own up when we get bumped. The August frost put our
corn out of business, so we are around with long fingers trying to steal
seed corn.
However, a great many of the people of the state are looking forward to
the matter of planting trees as never before, and our farmers and
citizens are taking more interest in general tree planting and
beautifying the homes than in previous years. I had this term a large
class of students in landscape gardening. They will go out to the places
where they live and encourage the planting of trees and landscape
gardening there. In this matter of general ornamentation the frosts or
other calamities have not discouraged us. I think there were more trees
grown and more ornamental work done this year than in any two previous
years because the men have the money and are willing to spend it. I was
out on a farm last week where a man insisted on buying a thousand
evergreen trees. The nurseryman tried to sell him only five hundred, but
he would not have it that way. He wanted a thousand. He said he had the
money and was going to pay for them; so he planted the thousand trees.
We do not recommend such rashness on the part of our farmers, but it
shows when a farmer insists on having a thousand trees he is taking the
beautifying of his grounds seriously. This is perhaps an extreme case,
but we have others working along the same line.
I certainly enjoy the privilege of being with you people here again as I
have for the last quarter of a century, twenty-five years ago, when I
was made an honorary member of this society, and I do not know of any
prouder moment in my whole career than when you saw fit to honor me in
that manner. I certainly would never forgive myself for the balance of
the year if I failed to attend these meetings. (Applause.)
Mr. Philips: Waldron is too modest. He has not told the best thing he
ever did in North Dakota, so I shall. I visited him a good many years
ago, and he had some interesting boys there, especially the oldest one,
and I told him that if he was going to keep ahead of that boy he would
have to hustle, and now that boy at nineteen has the ability to go to
one of the southern states as a professor. So he didn't tell us the
greatest thing he ever did. Maybe some of the credit is due to his wife;
that is the way it is at my house. (Applause.)
Mr. Waldron: I am so far behind that boy I am sort of jealous. I do not
mention it.
The President: The secretary of the Wisconsin Horticultural Society is
with us, Professor Cranefield. Is he in the room?
Mr. Cranefield: Mr. Graves, of Sturgeon Bay, is the duly accredited
delegate to the society and probably you want to hear from him.
The President: We heard from him two or three days ago, and we will hear
from him again, but just now we want you to give us a few words. This is
Professor Cranefield, who has contributed on previous occasions to the
success of our meetings. (Applause.) (See index.)
The President: I will now call on Professor Mackintosh, who is going to
read a paper at this time.
Mr. Mackintosh: Yesterday I had to start the ball rolling as a
substitute for a man from Washington, and with the assistance of Miss
Bull we kept most of you here until after 12 o'clock. Today I am put
ahead of the program, so you won't hear me tomorrow afternoon. The
subject is, "Bringing the Producer and Consumer Together."
Mr. Mackintosh reads paper. (Applause.)
The President: I regret very much that time will not permit us to
discuss this very able paper. Secretary Latham has just called my
attention to the fact that there has been but very few tickets bought
for the banquet this evening. You understand it takes time to prepare
food, and he has to announce just how many people would be present, and
I sincerely hope that those of you who intend to attend the banquet (and
I trust that will be every one present) will get your tickets
immediately. It is the very best part of our program. Please get your
tickets so that Secretary Latham may know how to prepare for you.
At this time recess was taken until 1:30 o'clock p.m.
December 9, 1915, Afternoon Session.
Discussion on "The Topworked Orchard," led by A. J. Philips, Wisconsin.
(See index.)
The President: The next order of business will be the election of
officers for the coming year. The secretary just handed me this slip
which gives you an idea of the requirements in order to be eligible to
vote for officers. (Reads extracts from constitution.) The first will be
the selection of a president for the coming year. Nominations are in
order.
Mr. Bradley: Mr. President, it is said that republics are ungrateful,
but it is not necessary for horticultural societies to be ungrateful. It
has been, I think, in the past, and I hope it may continue to be in the
future, the policy of this society to recognize the services of its
officers and so we, I think, are justified in recognizing the
distinguished and efficient services of our present presiding officer. I
take great pleasure in placing in nomination for president of this
society the Honorable Thomas E. Cashman. (Applause.)
Nomination is duly seconded and there are no other nominations.
Mr. Crosby: I move that the secretary be instructed to cast the
unanimous ballot of this society for Thomas E. Cashman as president of
this society.
Motion is seconded and carried.
Mr. Cashman: Friends, I deeply appreciate this honor that you have
conferred upon me. I am always ready to contribute my mite towards the
service of the people, but I am never happy unless I am convinced that I
am able to give all that the position demands. Your selection of me as
your presiding officer for the sixth time convinces me that you are at
least satisfied with what I have been able to do for you and this, I
assure you, makes me extremely happy.
I will endeavor to show my appreciation by doing all that is within my
power to further the interests of this society made up of men and women
that cannot be excelled for intelligence, cleanliness of habits and
honorable and right living. I know a great many horticulturists, not
only of this state but of other states, and they, I assure you--and you
know it yourselves--are far above the average. I therefore deem it a
great honor to be known as the president of one of the best
organizations, I do not care whether it is horticultural or otherwise,
in this country today. I thank you. (Applause.)
The President: I find there are two members of the executive board to be
elected at this time, one to succeed Professor LeRoy Cady and another
Mr. R. A. Wright, whose terms of office expire at this time.
Mr. Cady and Mr. Wright are nominated to succeed themselves, nominations
are seconded and upon motion the secretary cast the unanimous ballot of
the society for Mr. Cady and Mr. Wright as members of the executive
board for the coming three years.
The President: The next will be the selection of a treasurer.
Mr. George Strand is renominated, nomination is seconded and on motion
the secretary cast the ballot of the society for Mr. George W. Strand
for treasurer.
The President: The secretary places in nomination the following men, as
vice presidents of this organization. I will ask him to name the list.
Vice-Presidents: C. E. Snyder, 1st Cong. Dist., Preston; S. D.
Richardson, 2nd Cong. Dist., Winnebago; J. K. Andrews, 3rd Cong. Dist.,
Faribault; B. Wallner, Jr., 4th Cong. Dist., St. Paul; F. H. Nutter, 5th
Cong. Dist., Minneapolis; Matt. Tschida, 6th Cong. Dist., St. Cloud; G.
A. Anderson, 7th Cong. Dist., Renville; J. Kimball, 8th Cong. Dist.,
Duluth; A. L. Hanson, 9th Cong. Dist., Ada; A. W. Richardson, 10th Cong.
Dist., Howard Lake.
Secretary Latham reads names of nominees for vice presidents and places
them in nomination. Nomination is seconded and upon motion the secretary
is instructed to cast the ballot of the society for the persons named as
vice-presidents.
The President: The next number will be a speech by Mr. S. P. Crosby,
chairman of the committee that was selected by this association to go
before the legislature at the last session and try to secure an
appropriation sufficient to build a home for this society. (See index.)
The next gentleman on the program is our friend Clarence Wedge, who is
going to tell us of his trip out to Yellowstone Park. (See index.)
Mr. Wedge: Not exactly to Yellowstone Park. We came within a day's drive
of the Yellowstone, but our interest and enthusiasm went in another
direction this year.
Mr. Wedge reads paper.
The President: "Peonies New and Old," by Mr. A. M. Brand, of Faribault,
one of the best peony specialists in the state.
A Member: And of the world. (Applause.) (See index.)
Discussion.
The President: We have another noted horticulturist with us today from
Illinois. You have all heard of the Senator Dunlap strawberry. The
originator is with us today, Senator Dunlap, of Savoy, Illinois. He will
be on the program tomorrow. I will be pleased to have the senator come
forward and give us a word of greeting.
Mr. Dunlap: I hardly think it is necessary for me to come forward. I
will be on the program a couple of times, and you will hear all that you
care to from me. I am very glad to be here with you. It has been some
time since I met with your society, but I remember well the very
pleasant time I had at that time. I came this week from the Michigan
Horticultural Society, in session at Grand Rapids, and I was very loath
to leave such an interesting meeting, but I knew when I came to
Minneapolis I would be in just as interesting a meeting. I wish to
disabuse your minds of the statements made by your honorable chairman
through an error. I am not the originator of the Senator Dunlap
strawberry. The Reverend Mr. Reisenour (?) is the originator of the
strawberry, and he thought it was a thrifty, strong, healthy plant and
would stand the name of Dunlap, so he gave it to the strawberry.
(Laughter and Applause.)
The President: I stand corrected. I have been misinformed, although I
think you carry the honor. Our time is up. I have been requested to
announce that the lantern talk given by Mrs. James Jennison will take
place at the close of the Woman's Auxiliary meeting. Some very talented
ladies are to speak this afternoon, and I hope you will all stay and
listen to them. I will now turn the meeting over to the Women's
Auxiliary and request Mrs. F. M. Powers, who will preside, to take the
chair.
Mrs. Powers: Just a continuation, I hope, of our good program that was
begun this afternoon, and we will now listen to Mrs. Clarence Wedge, of
Albert Lea, on the "Value of Horticulture to the Farm." Mrs. Wedge is
not a stranger to horticulture nor to this society. (See index.)
Mrs. Powers: Some one has said that the enemy of art is the enemy of
nature, and art is nothing more than the highest sagacity and attainment
of human nature. We have with us Mrs. Cyrus W. Wells, who has had
considerable experience in this line and will give us the practical
side.
Mrs. Wells spoke on "Art Made Practical."
Mrs. Powers: "The Day's Work," by Mrs. John B. Irwin.
Mrs. Powers: According to our program we were to have one speaker
tomorrow morning because we thought she could not be here at this time,
but Mrs. Dunlap is here and will favor us now, if you please.
Talk by Mrs. A. M. Dunlap on "Better Methods in the Home."
Mrs. Powers: The last number on our program will be "The Highway
Beautiful," by Mrs. Jennison.
Mrs. Jennison gave a lantern talk.
President Cashman: We have a very important question to be considered
this afternoon, and, fortunately for us, it is going to be taken care of
by one of our best men--"Breeding for Hardiness"--something this
gentleman has been doing all his life. He has met with a great deal of
success, and we are profiting by it. That gentleman is Professor N. E.
Hansen, of Brookings, South Dakota. (Applause.) (See index.)
The President: Mr. C. E. Older has some suggestions to make, and we will
give him an opportunity to talk at this time.
Mr. Older: Mr. President, and Ladies and Gentlemen: In a meeting of some
of the leading exhibitors of the state fair yesterday they expressed
quite a bit of dissatisfaction with the present manner of awarding
premiums on commercial apples, that is, boxes of apples and one-layer
boxes. The point was that it would be a good thing if the state could be
divided so that the sections which are more favorable for the
development of the apple would be in a section by themselves, and the
balance of the state compete by itself. The following resolution was
formulated to bring before this society, asking for their opinion oh the
subject and discussion:
Resolved, That we ask the state fair board that the state be divided
into two sections for the purpose of exhibit at the State Fair, making
two classes, one being the Wealthy apple and the other class comprising
all other varieties of box and one layer apples, the state to be divided
as follows: Beginning at the Mississippi river on the north line of
Goodhue County and running west on the north line of Goodhue, Rice, Le
Sueur and Nicollet Counties, thence running south on the west line of
Nicollet, Blue Earth and Faribault. All those counties lying east and
south of these lines are to constitute the first district, the balance
of the state being known as the second district.
We also ask the state fair board that first, second, third, fourth and
fifth premiums be offered on all apples, and on all the next ten lower
exhibits a certain premium be paid to all deserving exhibits.
And we ask that premiums be offered on Everbearing Strawberries showing
both bearing plants and fruit of the Progressive, Superb, and any other
varieties.
We also ask the state fair board that they make some practical
arrangements to get the horticultural exhibits moved to the state fair
from the depots in a more satisfactory and cheaper manner than the
present arrangements.
I move you that this resolution be adopted.
Motion was seconded and carried unanimously.
Meeting adjourned.
December 10, 1915, Morning Session.
The President: We are to have a talk on "Spraying the Orchard," by
Senator Dunlap, of Illinois, this morning. (See index.)
Discussion.
Mr. Crosby: We thank Senator Dunlap for his able talk. I think that is
the way to progress. If we do not do things right up-to-date we can
learn how to do better from a competent man.
The President: We all enjoyed the able talk of Senator Dunlap. He is
president of the Orchard Association of Illinois. He is considered one
of the most practical men down there, and we are very fortunate in
having him with us and to listen to his valuable talk and experience.
(Applause.)
We will now listen to Professor Richard Wellington, who will tell us
about "Orcharding in Minnesota." (Applause.) (See index.)
Discussion.
The President: I am going to suggest a little matter at this time which
I am sure you will all approve of. It has been said by hundreds of men
and women attending these meetings who have had an opportunity of
enjoying the talks and papers and splendid program given here that we
had the greatest horticultural society in the world. It is true that we
have the largest membership of any horticultural society in the United
States and, I presume, of the world.
You will all agree with me that is due to the efforts of one man to a
large extent. That man has been in our service and looked after our
interests for twenty-five years. He is at his best all the time,
cordial, kind, using good judgment, prevents friction among us, always
working for the best interests of everybody belonging to the society and
the interests of the state.
As I said before, he has served us twenty-five years, and I think it
only fitting at this time that we should show our appreciation in a way
that will appeal better than words. It has been suggested that we
purchase some little token and present it this afternoon. It is up to
you as to how much you want to give or whether you want to give anything
or not, but Mr. Crosby and Mr. Brackett will be at the door as you pass
out this noon, and they will probably have a hat there and you can drop
in what you want to, and we will buy something for him and present it
this afternoon. (Great applause.)
The President: Now we will turn the meeting over to the Plant Breeders'
Auxiliary. I regret very much to have to announce that our good friend,
Clarence Wedge, president of this auxiliary, is ill this afternoon and
unable to occupy the chair. I understand there is no vice-president of
the auxiliary, and I have been requested to continue as chairman during
this meeting.
We have a very important program, one of the very best we have had. Some
of our best men are on this program and I hope you will all stay and
attend the balance of this meeting. I am going to call on our good
friend, Charles Haralson, superintendent of the Zumbra Heights farm, to
tell us about "New Fruits Originated at the State Fruit-Breeding Farm."
(Applause.) (See index.)
The President: Professor C. B. Waldron, of North Dakota, finds it
necessary to leave in a very short time, and he will therefore address
you at this time instead of this afternoon. He will tell us about
"Running Out of Varieties." (See index.)
We will now listen to the report of the committee on examination of the
Minnesota State Fruit-Breeding Farm, Dr. O. M. Huestis, Chairman. (See
index.)
The President: The next speaker needs no introduction to a Minnesota
audience, as the word "Hansen" is a household word and particularly in
every agricultural community within the state, and the Hansen hybrids
are eagerly sought for by practically everybody who plants trees.
Professor Hansen has done a good work and is still accomplishing things.
He will tell us what he has done during 1915. I regret the time is so
short, but we will get Mr. Hansen to tell us more about his work.
"Newer Fruits," Prof. N. E. Hansen, Brookings, S. D.
Afternoon Session, at 1:30.
Half-hour exercise, questions and answers on "Increasing the Fertility
of the Land," led by Dr. F. J. Alway. (See index.)
The President: Mr. Crosby has a word for us, and before continuing with
the regular program I will ask him to come forward at this time.
Mr. Crosby: Gentlemen of the Horticultural Society: Mr. Latham, please
come this way. I have the honor, in behalf of the society, to inform
you, as you probably know, that this is your silver wedding, but we are
going it one better and make it a golden wedding for you today. We have
come to the conclusion, you have been with this society for twenty-five
years, and we think it is best that you be watched and chained. I have
the honor of presenting to you, in behalf of the society, a gold watch
and chain. That is all I have to say. (Applause.)
Mr. Philips: Now for a speech.
Mr. Latham: Wait a moment, I will see if it is worth it. (Laughter.) I
hate to part with this old turnip. I have carried it forty-five years
now, never broke a crystal on it, even. It is a good faithful companion.
I do not know what I will do with this now unless I put it away in a
safety vault somewhere.
I do not think the Horticultural Society expects me to make a speech;
they know I am not a talker. I could say something if the room were
smaller, but my voice does not seem to carry very well. I am a good deal
in the fix of the steamboat that carried passengers on the river up and
down to the camp meeting there. They had a whistle on that boat that
made a tremendous noise but when they blew it the boat had to stop.
(Laughter.) If I talk loud enough to be heard here, my thinking works do
not operate. (Laughter.)
I hardly know how to express my appreciation of this gift, as showing
the sentiment of the society towards me. Of course, I have tried to do
what I could for the society. Sometimes, perhaps, I have gone a little
too far, something like the man who was appointed in charge of a flag
station. He had never done any such service as that, but he understood
the business of a flagman was to stop trains. The first train that came
along was a heavy express train, eight or ten or a dozen coaches, and he
rushed out and flagged the train. The conductor got off, all in a hurry,
and looked around. He did not see anybody but the flagman. He said:
"Where are your passengers?" "Well," he says, "there ain't any
passengers to get on, but I didn't know but somebody would like to get
off." (Laughter.) Sometimes, perhaps, I have overreached myself here.
Twenty-five years is quite a while to look back, and as I look over the
faces of those present I can scarcely see one that was a member of the
society twenty-five years ago when I became secretary. Mr. Long in his
address before you at the banquet last night spoke of the meeting that
he first attended of the horticultural society, held in what is now the
Metropolitan Life, on the ground floor, and he spoke of the surroundings
there. No fruit on exhibition. If a man had two or three apples in his
pocket, he showed them around on the sly as though it was a crime to let
people know there was such a thing and that he had a few at home he
could eat. Quite a remarkable thing!
That was the meeting of the horticultural society in which I was first
elected secretary, and I recall well all the circumstances connected
with it. So many of our members that I thought so much of in those days
are gone. Of those who were present at that meeting, the only person
left that I recall is Mr. Underwood. I had forgotten Mr. Long was there;
I think he reported the meeting; I guess the first of our meetings that
he reported, too.
I am not going to make any more of an address. President Vincent is here
and will address you. I thank you very much indeed. (Applause.)
Mr. Vincent: I am very glad that I got in in time to be a witness to
this delightful and gratifying little ceremony which has just taken
place. I can not imagine anything more satisfying to a man who, in spite
of all his modesty, knows he has done for twenty-five years good,
genuine, valuable work than to have other people intimate in so pleasant
a way that they are not entirely oblivious to what he has done.
It always does one good to see efficient work recognized, and, while I
cannot own, I am sorry to say, to an intimate personal acquaintance with
Mr. Latham, I have come into association with him often enough to be
able to share a little what you feel toward him and toward what he has
done.
The President: I am sure you will all be delighted to hear from the very
popular president of one of the greatest universities in the United
States, President George E. Vincent of Minnesota State University, who
will now address you. (See index.)
The President: I am sure we are very much indebted to President Vincent
for this most scholarly and delightful speech. We hope he can continue
with us during the afternoon. Owing to the fullness of our program this
forenoon we are unable to discuss one of our most important subjects,
and that was "The Elements of Hardiness," by Prof. M. J. Dorsey, member
of the Fruit Breeding Section, of the University Farm. He will discuss
that question at this time. (Applause.) (See index.)
The President: Senator Dunlap, who so delightfully entertained us this
morning and instructed us on the subject of "Spraying" will now speak to
us on the subject of "Packing and Marketing Apples." (See index.)
Discussion.
The President: I am now going to call on a gentleman that hasn't said a
word during our discussions and that is Mr. Weld, and request him to
recite his favorite poem.
Mr. Weld recites "The Three Warnings."
The President: We have had a very interesting session, had a good time,
everything has gone very nicely, but somehow there has been one thing
lacking. The old friends from Iowa have not been with us with one
exception, Mr. Ferris, who gave us the lantern talk on Tuesday, but
Friend Gardner, Patten, Sherman and several others (I believe Sherman
has been in town, but we have not seen him here) have been absent. The
reason for it is that the Iowa people have been holding their annual
meeting. But I am very glad that Mr. Gardner is with us this afternoon,
and I am now going to call upon Mr. Charles F. Gardner, of Osage, Iowa.
(Applause.)
Mr. Gardner: Mr. President, ladies and gentlemen: I have attended your
meetings so long that when I appear here before you I feel as though I
had got home. I have attended every meeting of this society except two
since this society held its annual meeting at Lake City the last time.
That is when I joined the society, and since that time a great many
things have taken place. Think it is seventeen or eighteen years ago, in
that neighborhood. I was absent two years. I went to New Mexico, I went
there to die, but luckily I escaped and came back home. I want to say
this, that when I got back to this part of the country, if there was
anything I thanked God for it was that I was spared to get back. I think
there is no necessity of emigrating either from Minnesota or Iowa, and
people that have traveled over the west and made a tour extending along
the Pacific coast and finally get back into this country, this latitude,
are generally pretty well satisfied and stay here. That is, providing
they didn't spend all their money and can not get back here. Some of our
citizens are now stranded out there and will come home whenever they
can.
In regard to the progress of horticulture in this length of time, I know
you are very much interested in the work of Mr. Patten and a good many
of you have trees that he originated. I want to say that the people of
our state of Iowa have not really gotten their eyes open yet in
horticultural ways. They only appropriated for our use $4,000. We have
five societies, the state society--and then the state is divided into
four sections. In the last few years our state society has appropriated
to carry on, to help Mr. Patten carry on his work, we have appropriated
and used $4,600.
Before that time our society allowed $50.00 a year for station fees for
quite a little while, then before that $25.00 a year. Last year we
appeared before the legislature and tried to get some help to keep up
that work and informed them that our money was getting short and that
unless it was done we could not carry on that work. The legislature
hardly winked an eye at our request. No money was appropriated, and of
all the things that I ever hated to help do last week was to discontinue
the Charles City station. For fear that some one might think we had gone
back on Mr. Patten and that the work he has done will be lost to the
world, I will say there is nothing of that kind. There is not a member
of our society but would do anything in the world for Mr. Patten, to
help him. It is just simply a fact that the money of our society is so
nearly exhausted we had hardly enough to pay for the expenses of our
meeting last week. We had a splendid meeting and never had such an
exhibit of apples before. Perhaps we may have had as many apples on
exhibit but not so many perfect ones. On the first opportunity we have
we are going to see that Mr. Patten does not suffer. I would say that
they are in pretty good shape to take care of Mr. Patten down there for
a year or two, and we will not lose the valuable work he has done.
As the meeting is drawing to a close I want to say in closing that if
there is anything that does me good it is to come up here and look into
your faces once a year, and I wish that I could see more of you. There
is a kind of bond of brotherhood and a feeling that when I am here I am
among friends and I have found that to be the case for almost twenty
years. Thank you. (Applause.)
The President: I have just discovered a question here that should be
answered, if there is anyone here that can do so. "In my locality the
basswood and box elders are infested with a scale-like substance that
looks like cotton. Most of the trees of the varieties named are
infested. What is it and is there a remedy?"
Mr. Kellogg: That is no doubt the cottonwood bug that infects the soft
maple. They come and work for about three years and then some insect
comes in and cleans them out.
The President: What is the remedy, Mr. Kellogg?
Mr. Kellogg: You can use any spray for this bug. On forest trees it is
out of reach, but arsenical spray will get them if you can reach them.
Mr. Warner: Cotton maple scale. Professor Waldron recommends to spray
with crude oil when the trees are dormant. We find it best to cut it
back. The cottony appearance does not show until the second year and
then the scale has really done its injury. The time to cut it, you will
find a lot of small scales on the young twigs, and if they are cut off
and a new growth forced you get rid of it.
The President: I understand Prof. Broderick of the College of Winnipeg
has been here. If he is here I wish he would come forward and give us a
word. I understand he is the delegate from Winnipeg. (Applause.)
Mr. Broderick: Mr. President, ladies and gentlemen: Before going away, I
would like, as a member of the Manitoba society to express to you my
great pleasure at being here and taking part in your excellent meeting.
I had planned for a number of years to come down but circumstances have
been such that I have been unable to be here. I might say that we in
Manitoba, about 400 miles north of here, are interested in horticulture
as well as you people in Minnesota. We have a fraternal interest in the
work you are doing. A number of our members, I might say, are members of
your society, and we are getting your excellent publication and
following the work you are doing. Our problems up there are very similar
to yours, and we feel that you can give us greater information than we
can obtain from any other source. We appreciate the excellent work you
are doing, and it has been of great interest to me to see the wide range
of subjects you are covering. I was particularly interested this morning
in the session of the plant breeders, as that is a line of work that we
feel up in Manitoba has some possibilities for us. In a horticultural
line we are confined very largely to the hardy varieties. We are working
on improving the hardiness of our varieties, and the fruit growing as it
is carried on with us very largely in a small way by the farmers and
others interested through our province. We feel, however, that there are
possibilities, and we are only too glad to get any information from you
as to the work and progress that is being made in the matter of hardy
fruits. We have been endeavoring to improve our native plums. I have had
the station there at Winnipeg, and in connection with one of our
nurserymen, Mr. Buchanan, we have been selecting hardy plums for a
number of years, and we hope from that stock in crossing with the
Japanese plums, as Professor Hansen suggested this morning, to prove
that there are possibilities even as far north as Manitoba. I have heard
Mr. Buchanan say on several occasions that he thought the possibilities
of plum growing were fairly good in Manitoba. In small fruits we have
possibilities. The currants and raspberries grow very well. We have not
done so much in strawberries, but I know there are a number of growers
in parts of the province that are making some very successful
experiments in strawberries, and we hope in a few years to produce
strawberries of a fairly good quality.
The President: How is your wild strawberry?
Mr. Broderick: I find that the wild strawberry does very well. We have
around Winnipeg, where the college is located, a wild strawberry that
does very well, and it is possible that we can do some work on improving
the wild strawberry. We are looking to our hardy native fruits and the
hardy importations we are making to establish varieties which are hardy
and suited to our conditions. We are interested also in the work done in
tree planting, and I followed with interest the discussion this morning
as to windbreak protection. That has been a problem with us. The
government of the Dominion has taken it over, and we find it is working
out all right. Our Forestry Station at Indian Head sends out lots of
trees free each year. These are planted, and they have a system of
inspection. Certain requirements are made in regard to the preparation
of the soil, methods of planting and caring for the plantation
afterwards.
A Member: What are the majority of your forest trees?
Mr. Broderick: Forest trees are largely deciduous, the Manitoba maple,
the ash, the elm and the willows. I was pleased to hear some one this
morning mention the golden willow. That is one of the best trees we
have. The Manitoba maple, of course grows all over that northern
country, but we find that during recent years it has been becoming
seriously infected with various kinds of pests. This year the aphis were
serious. We are discouraging to a certain extent the Manitoba maple and
planting other trees and are getting better results. The ash, the elm
and willow are doing well. With the conifer trees, the Scotch pine, the
white spruce, the balsam fir and the ridgepole pine are those which are
growing.
The improving of home grounds is another question that is interesting
us. I do not think there is anything in this western country that is
going to do more to make homes than this. So we are interested in all
the work you are carrying on, and we appreciate the opportunity of
coming here and meeting with you and listening to the excellent
discussions you have. I might say that our annual meeting is held in
February and if any of you happen to stray up there we would be only too
glad to have you join with us.
I thank you very much for the many courtesies extended to me on behalf
of the Manitoba society. (Applause.)
(Time was now taken up by two minute speeches of different members,
after which the meeting was declared closed.)
Records of Executive Board for 1916.
Record of meeting held in secretary's office 8:00 p.m. Tuesday, Dec. 6,
1915.
There were present Thos. E. Cashman, LeRoy Cady, Clarence Wedge, J. P.
Andrews, R. A. Wright and A. W. Latham.
In the absence of the chairman of the board, Mr. J. M. Underwood,
Clarence Wedge was elected chairman pro tem.
The following accounts were examined and approved and orders drawn in
payment therefor.
Geo. W. Strand, treasurer, premiums annual meeting, 1914, $596.50.
Geo. W. Strand, treasurer, premiums summer meeting, 1915, $172.00.
A. W. Latham, expenses secretary's office from June 1, 1915, to Dec. 1,
1915, $1,064.30.
It was decided to present to the annual meeting of the society for
action the following named persons for honorary life membership: John
Bisbee, Madelia; J. R. Cummins, Minneapolis; S. H. Drum, Owatonna; F. W.
Kimball, Waltham; Chas. Haralson, Excelsior.
An appropriation of fifty-three dollars and 25-100 ($53.25) was made for
the benefit of the Minnesota Forestry Association.
Adjourned sine die,
CLARENCE WEDGE,
Chairman, pro tem.
A. W. LATHAM, Secretary.
* * * * *
Record of meeting of the board held in West Hotel 12:30 p.m. Friday,
Dec. 10, 1915.
There were present at this meeting Thos. E. Cashman, LeRoy Cady,
Clarence Wedge, J. P. Andrews, R. A. Wright and A. W. Latham.
Thos. E. Cashman was elected chairman pro tem.
J. M. Underwood was elected chairman of the board for 1916, and A. W.
Latham was elected secretary at a salary of eighteen hundred dollars
($1,800.00) per annum. The salary of the treasurer was fixed at
twenty-five dollars ($25.00) per annum.
The board having under consideration the recommendation of grades of
apples for use in packing for market, a committee consisting of Clarence
Wedge, J. P. Andrews and R. A. Wright was appointed to take the question
under consideration with authority to act for the board.
The sum of eight hundred dollars ($800.00) was appropriated as a
revolving fund for the use of the secretary of the society during the
year 1916.
The following resolution was presented by Clarence Wedge and unanimously
adopted by the board.
"Resolved: That the board favors the exclusive distribution of
new varieties of fruits of probable commercial value
originating at the State Fruit-Breeding Farm to members of the
society and the trial stations of the state as at present
practiced.
"Resolved further--That when a variety of fruits originating at
the fruit breeding farm has been sufficiently tested to
establish its commercial value in the state, it shall be given
a name and the State Fruit-Breeding Farm shall cease to
propagate it for distribution."
Adjourned sine die,
THOS. E. CASHMAN,
Chairman, pro tem.
A. W. LATHAM, Secretary.
* * * * *
Record of meeting held in the secretary's office June 22, 1916.
All members of the board were present except R. A. Wright.
Mr. John P. Andrews was elected by the board as its representative in
connection with the assessment of damages on account of nursery stock to
be destroyed in certain Minnesota nurseries to protect from injury
threatened by a disease called "white pine blister rust."
Having under consideration the trial stations connected with the society
it was decided to discontinue the station located at Madison, Minn., and
locate a station at New Auburn, Minn., R. F. Hall, Supt., and another at
Deerwood, Minn., L. P. Hall, Supt.
The following resolution pertaining to Farmers' Institutes was
unanimously adopted.
"Resolved: That in our judgment the carrying out of the spirit
and purpose of the motion adopted by the Farmers' Institute
Board, Sept. 4, 1913, pertaining to 'the horticultural work on
each institute corps'--to quite literally--cannot be fully
performed except by providing for each institute corps some one
who should in whole or in part represent horticulture, and who
should be interested and willing to serve the Horticultural
Society as indicated in said motion; and further, that
reasonable opportunity for such service should be allowed at
each place where an institute corps may be working."
It was decided to appropriate $65.00 to be applied to the uses of the
Minnesota State Forestry Association.
The accounts of the Secretary from Nov. 30, 1915, to June 15, 1916,
amounting to $4,112.82, were examined and approved, and an order drawn
for the payment of that amount from the treasury, an equal amount to be
covered into the treasury from the hands of the secretary.
Adjourned sine die,
J. M. UNDERWOOD,
Chairman Executive Board.
A. W. LATHAM, Secretary.
Additions to Society Library, 1916.
(For preceding list see page 492, Report 1916).
Case. No.
Am. Pomological Socy., An. Rep., 1873 3 8
Am. Pomological Socy., An. Rep., 1871 3 9
Am. Pomological Socy., An. Rep., 1885 3 10
*Cyclopedia of American Agri., Bailey. Vol. 1 3 24
*Cyclopedia of American Agri., Bailey. Vol. 2 3 25
*Cyclopedia of American Agri., Bailey. Vol. 3 3 26
*Cyclopedia of American Agri., Bailey. Vol. 4 3 27
*Cyclopedia of Practical Hort., Lowther, 1916. Vol. 1 4 1
*Cyclopedia of Practical Hort., Lowther, 1916. Vol. 2 4 2
*Cyclopedia of Practical Hort., Lowther, 1916. Vol. 3 4 3
*Cyclopedia of Practical Hort., Lowther, 1916. Vol. 4 4 4
*Plums of New York, Hedrick, 1915 1 1
*Grapes of New York, Hedrick, 1915 1 2
FROM LIBRARY OF WYMAN ELLIOT:
Bureau of Ethnology. J. W. Powell 1 3
Minn. State Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1915 44 13
*American Agriculturist. Vol. 10 4 8
Report of Secretary of Agriculture, 1889 4 10
Department of Agriculture. Report, 1877 4 11
Architecture of Country Houses. Downing 4 12
American Farmers Encyclopedia. Emerson 4 13
Michigan Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1886 4 13
Department of Agriculture, Report, 1856 5 14
Yearbook of Argiculture, 1855 4 15
American Forestry Association, Report, 1897 4 16
Department of Agriculture, Report, 1852-3 4 14
Food for Plants. Harris and Meyers 47 1
Western Farmer. Vol. 1 47 2
Western Farmer. Vol. 2 47 3
Western Farmer. Vol. 3 47 4
Minnesota State Horticultural Society, Report, 1869 47 5
State Entomologist, An. Rep., 1909-1910 47 6
American Pomological Society, An. Rep., 1903 47 7
American Pomological Society, An. Rep., 1869 47 8
Wisconsin State Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1876 47 9
Wisconsin State Hort. Society, An. Rep., 1877 47 10
Wisconsin State Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1891 47 11
State Experiment Station, Rep., Bulletins 47 12
Illinois Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1870 47 13
State Entomologist, Report, 1905 47 14
Indiana State Hort. Socy., Report, 1853 47 15
Minnesota Farmers Institute Annual, 1895 47 16
Minnesota Farmers Institute Annual, 1907 47 17
Minnesota Farmers Institute Annual, 1908 47 18
Western N. Y. Hort. Socy., Report, 1887 47 19
Making Horticulture Pay. M. G. Kains 47 34
Young Farmers Manual. S. E. Todd 47 33
Home for All. O. S. Fowler 47 32
American Weeds and Useful Plants. Wm. Darlington 47 31
How to Grow and Show Potatoes. Jas. Pink 47 30
How to Build Hot Houses. R. B. Leucars 47 29
Field Book of Manures. D. J. Browne 47 28
Woodwards Country Homes. G. E. & F. W. Woodward 47 27
Grape Growers Guide. Wm. Charlton 47 26
Botanical Ready Reference. J. M. Nickells 47 25
Landscape Gardening. Chas. H. J. Smith 47 24
Cranberry Culture. B. Eastwood 47 35
Book of Roses. Francis Parkman 47 23
Elements of Agriculture, Chemistry and Geology.
J. F. W. Johnston 47 22
American Farm Book. R. L. Allan 47 21
Flower Garden. Jos. Beck 47 20
Handbook of Tree Planting. N. H. Egleston 47 38
Bulbs. E. S. Rand, Jr. 47 37
How to Cooperate. Herbert Myrick 47 36
Suburban Home Grounds. F. J. Scott 45 1
Trees of America. D. J. Browne 45 2
California Fruits. E. J. Wickson 45 3
Ill. State Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1885 45 4
Farmers Universal Handbook 45 5
*Johnsons Dictionary of Gardening. David Landreth 45 6
Flowers for the Parlor and Garden. E. S. Rand, Jr. 45 7
Hedges and Evergreens. John A. Warder 45 8
The Farmers Miscellany. Geo. W. Marshall 45 9
The Western Fruit Book. F. R. Elliott 45 10
The Strawberry Culture. R. G. Pardee 45 11
Use of the National Forests. Gifford Pinchot 45 12
Ladies Companion to Flower Gardening. Downing 45 13
Map of Minnesota, 1854 45 29
Vegetable Plants. I. F. Tillinghast 45 28
Mysteries of Bee-Keeping Explained. M. Quinby 45 27
Grape Culturist. A. S. Fuller 45 26
Rural Economy. Boursingault's, by Geo. Law 45 25
Barn Plans and Out Buildings 45 24
New Creations in Plant Life. W. S. Harwood 45 23
The Farmers Side. W. A. Peffer 45 22
Villes' Chemical Manures. A. A. Fesquet 45 18
Johnsons Agriculture Chemistry. Jas. F. W. Johnston 45 21
A. B. C. of Agriculture. M. C. Weld 45 20
Land Drainage. J. P. Clipper 45 19
Peat and Its Use. S. W. Johnson 45 17
Forestry Tree Culturist. A. S. Fuller 45 16
American Poultry Yard. D. J. Browne 45 15
How Crops Grow. S. W. Johnson 45 14
N. J. Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1915 4 23
Royal Hort. Socy., Journal of, December, 1915 4 19
Society of American Florists, 1915 27 13
Wyoming State Bd. of Hort., An. Rep., 1915 27 14
Man. Hortl. and Forestry Assn., An. Rep., 1915 27 15
Kentucky Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1915 27 16
Markets for Oregon Fruits, 1914 27 17
Vermont State Hort. Socy., Report, 1915 27 18
Fruit Growers Assn. of Nova Scotia, Report, 1916 27 19
Illinois State Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1915 27 20
Ontario Vegetable Growers Assn., An. Rep., 1915 4 21
The American Rose Manual. J. Harris McFarland, 1915 27 27
Horticultural Societies of Ontario, An. Rep., 1915 4 22
Georgia State Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1915 27 21
Peninsula Horticultural Socy., An. Rep., 1916 27 22
Mass. Hort. Socy., Part 2, 1915 27 23
Nebraska Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1915 27 24
Virginia State Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1915 27 25
Northern Nut Growers Assn., An. Rep., 1915 27 26
S. D. State Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1915 4 20
Western N. Y. Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1916 27 28
Yearbook, Dept. of Agri., 1915 4 18
Plant Propagation. M. G. Kains 12 9
Productive Vegetable Growing. J. W. Lloyd 11 29
Backyard Farmer. J. W. Bolte 11 27
The Well Considered Garden. Mrs. Francis King 11 28
Planning and Planting Home Grounds. Warren H. Manning 11 26
Birds of Town and Country, National Geographic Socy 4 17
*Fruit Industry in New York. Part 1 27 35
*Fruit Industry in New York. Part 2 27 36
Kansas State Hort. Socy. 1914 and 1915 27 37
Ont. Entomological Socy., An. Rep., 1915 27 38
Pomological & Fruit Growers Socy. of Quebec, An. Rep., 1915 27 39
Md. State Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1915 27 40
Oregon State Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1915 27 41
Royal Hort. Socy., Journal of, May, 1916 27 42
State Hort. Assn. of Pa., An. Rep., 1916 27 43
Iowa Hort. Socy., An. Report, 1915 27 44
Ala. State Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1915 27 45
Mass. Hort. Socy., An. Rep., Part 1, 1916 27 46
Mass. Fruit Growers Assn., An. Rep., 1916 27 47
N. Y. State Fruit Growers Assn., An. Rep., 1916 27 48
Washington State Hort. Assn., An. Rep., 1916 27 49
Ohio State Hort. Socy., An. Rep., 1916 27 50
* * * * *
CONDITIONS UNDER WHICH BOOKS MAY BE TAKEN FROM THE SOCIETY LIBRARY.
Books may be taken from the library of the Minnesota State Horticultural
Society by any member of the society on the following terms:
1. Not more than two books can be taken at a time.
2. Books with a star (*) before the title, as found in the published
library lists, are reference books and not to be taken from the library.
3. In ordering books give besides the name also the case and book
numbers, to be found in the same line as the title.
4. Books will be sent by parcel post when requested.
5. When taking out, or sending for a book, a charge of ten cents (to be
paid in advance) is made to cover expense of recording, transmission,
etc.
6. Books are mailed to members only in Minnesota and states immediately
adjoining. When sent to points outside the state a charge of fifteen
cents is made.
7. A book can be kept two weeks: If kept longer a charge of two cents
per day will be made.
8. The library list, to December 1, 1915, is published in the 1915
annual volume of the society. Additions to this list will be published
year by year in the succeeding annual volumes.
MEMBERSHIP, 1916
Annual Members.
Aarrestad N. O Hanley Falls, R. I.
Aase, Martin Kenyon
Abel, Nick Evansville
Abbott, Geo. Newport
Abbott, T. A. 487 Ashland, St. Paul
Abeler, Wm. J. 196 Griggs St., St. Paul
Abeler, Geo. L. 264 Dayton Ave., St. Paul
Aberg, C. 3310 Wenonah Place, Mpls.
Abbott, Mrs. A. W. 221 Clifton Ave., Mpls.
Abrahamson, E. O. Lafayette
Academy of Our Lady
of Good Counsel Mankato
Ackerknecht, W. E. 680 White Bear Ave., St. Paul
Ademmer, B., Jr. New Prague
Adams, Chas. W. 3212 Minnehaha Ave., Mpls.
Adams, D. Albert Hutchinson
Adams, Robt. Morris
Adams, W. S. 1620 Jefferson St., Duluth
Aelzant, Louie Brevator
Affleck, C. A. Willmar
Ahlsten, Mrs. Mary Dent
Aiton, Geo. B. Grand Rapids
Akers, Mary D. 1541 W. Minnehaha, St. Paul
Alexander, Alfred Dawson
Almquist, C. A. Capas
Alme, O. T. Ulen
Allen, Edgar New Auburn
Allison, Prof. J. H. Univ. Farm, St. Paul
Albertson, A. R. Paynesville
Alden, E. M. Deer River
Albrecht, O. E. 6th & Minnesota Sts., St. Paul
Allis, W. H., Sec Aitkin
Allen, Wilber R. Wells
Albinson, Oscar 1718 11th Ave. S., Mpls.
Alm, Arthur 686 Ivy St., St. Paul
Aldrich, Malcolm 3205 Henn. Ave., Mpls.
Albert, Henry So. St. Paul
Alford, E. F. 2390 Woodland Ave., Duluth
Allen, John S. 3017 Grand Ave., Mpls.
Allen, P. L. 1912 3rd Ave. S., Mpls.
Amborn, Elmer Box 147, Bangor, Wis.
Ames, Mrs. Frank Sta. F., Mpls.
Ammand, Ernest 2819 Polk. St., Mpls.
Amundson, C. E. 409 Henn. Ave., Mpls.
Ambauen, Rev. Jos. Freeport
Amundson, P. C. Amery, Wis.
Anderson, Louis R. 1, Gladstone
Anderson, J. C. B. 1285 Portland Ave., St. Paul
Anderson, Alex. P. 558 Everett Ave., Chicago
Andrew, Harry 5327 S. Lyndale, Mpls.
Anderson, Richard R. 4, Northfield
Anderson, J. E. R. 5, Box 35, Hector
Anderson, A. M. Gran Marais
Anderson, Andy 935 Cherokee Ave., St. Paul
Anderson, J. W. Mitchell, S. D.
Anderson, Henning 1108 S. 4th St., St. Peter
Anderson, Mrs. Andrew, S. Elm St., Owatonna
Andrews, Theo. S. Bemidji
Anvid, Olof Blackduck
Anderson, Axel Hotel Leamington, Mpls.
Andrews, Gen. C. C. Capitol, St. Paul
Anderson, Miss Deborah 627 E. 17th St., Mpls.
Anderson, John W. R. 3, Cokato
Anderson, A. J. 161 E. Cook St., St. Paul
Anderson, David 4044 Aldrich S., Mpls.
Andrews, Mrs. W. E. Lake Wood, White Bear
Anderson, Carl Vesta
Anstett, Jake Preston
Anderson, Fred Rush City
Anderson, Wm. R. 4, Isanti
Andrews, J. P. Faribault
Anderson, S. A. 3801 Dupont N., Mpls
Anderson, C. G. 1514 W. Lake St., Mpls.
Anderson, G. F. W. Side Sta., R. 2, St. Paul
Anderson, J. F. Lake City
Anderson, Frank H. 2905 Fremont S., Mpls.
Anderson, John 4315 Girard N., Mpls.
Anderson, Andrew 865 Bidwell St., St. Paul
Anderson, Mrs. John R. 2, Box 99, Isanti
Anderson, Ernest Cove
Anderson, John A. 715 Normal Ave., Valley City, N.D.
Andrews, W. A. Walhalla, N. D.
Anderson, L.P. Bemidji
Anderson, Axel Dunnell
Anderson, Henry Lake Wilson
Anderson,, Alfred O. 914 St. Olaf Ave., Northfield
Anderson, Wm. 1540 Kirkwin Ave., St. Paul
Andreas, Reuben W. 71 Melbourne Ave., Mpls.
Anderson, J. L. Clarkfield
Anitzberger, Phil. 1245 Livingston Ave., W. St. Paul
Anderson, Peter Eastwood
Anderson, Victor Hastings Hotel, Mpls.
Anfield, E. N. Clinton
Anderson, B. E. Elbow Lake
Armitage, C. W. Canby
Arrowood, Jas. Nevis
Arness, A. G. Benson
Arkens, Edw. J. Park Rapids
Archer, T. E. 1399 Raymond Ave., St. Paul
Archer, Mrs. Marian 1399 Raymond Ave., St. Paul
Arneson, M. Shelly
Arctander, Ludwig 324 N. Y. Life Bldg., Mpls.
Aronson, Geo. Box 135, South Park
Asp, Arthur E. R. 11, Milaca
Asplund, Chas. R. 1, Hopkins
Ash, H. C. 15 Carlyle Ave., Duluth
Asperstrand, Aug. Amery, Wis.
Atwood, H. J. Hunters Park, Duluth
Atcheson, Jas. Mapleton
Atherton, Mrs. Isabella Newport
Aune, Olaf Underwood
Austin, Miss Mary J. 503 Sellwood Bldg., Duluth
Austin, O. A. McVille, N. D.
Aune, Theo. Glenwood
Avery, Carlos State Capitol, St. Paul
Ayers, H. B. Kimberly
Ayers, C. O. 1025 17th Ave. S., St. Cloud
Ayers, Ellsworth D. Pine City
Badrann, Peter Harvey, N. D.
Bailey, J. Vincent Dayton Bluff Sta., St. Paul
Baillif, R. L. Sta. F, R. 3, Mpls.
Baalson, H. E. Brooten
Baglien, Hans H. Rothsay
Baillif, C. E. Sta. F, R. 1, Mpls.
Backus, Mrs. C. H. 580 Holly Ave., St. Paul
Bagley, Mrs. Horace Towner, N. D.
Bailey, Victor River Falls, Wis.
Bailey, Phoebe D. 1023 17th Ave. S. E., Mpls.
Bahe, H. G. Hastings
Babcock, Mrs. J. B. Belgrade
Baker, H. P. N. Y. State Col. of For., Syracuse, N.Y.
Beath, P. A. Drake, N. D.
Belker, Jake Maple Plain
Beise, Dr. H. C. Windom
Becker, Ernest Northland
Baldwin, H. J. Northfield
Baker, H. F. 4629 Lake Harriet Blvd., Mpls.
Baney, J. W. Blackduck
Baldwin, Miss L. O. 707 Cham. of Com., Mpls.
Ballou, Herb 3316 10th Ave. S., Mpls.
Baker, John W. R. 3, Maynard
Baker, W. H. Reading
Bannister, I. C. Stillwater
Balfour, Donald C. Rochester
Banning, Mrs. J. F. Juamba
Baker, Bert Hoosick Falls, N. Y.
Bamford, Geo. J. 1703 Sheridan Ave., St. Paul
Baker, Miss Ida A. 4629 Lake Harriet Blvd., Mpls.
Balcarek, V. L. Hyannis, Neb.
Baldus, Jos. L. Montrose
Baldwin, E. B. Care of Western Electric Co., St. Paul
Baker, M. J. Deer River
Bartram, Mrs. C. S. R. 1, White Bear
Barclay, J. M. Madison Lake
Barnstad, Ole Willmar
Barnes, J. U. 705 Oneida Blk., Mpls.
Barnard, A. H. 206 Lbr. Exchange, Mpls.
Barott, J. E. Tamarack
Barker, Mrs. S. E. R. 3, Excelsior
Bartlett, J. F. Excelsior, Minn.
Barrows, Walter A. Brainerd
Bartholomew, O. A., Jr. 120 So. 5th St., Mpls.
Barnes, Fred Northfield
Bartlett, Mrs. E. A. R. 2, Hopkins
Bartsch, Chas. G. R. 2, Mankato
Bartholomew, R. L. Sta. F, R. 1, Nic. Ave., Mpls.
Barton, Bert Republic, Mich.
Barrett, Miss Alice Humboldt Ave. and 28th St., Mpls.
Bardwell, Fred L. Excelsior
Barthelemy, Ed St. Cloud
Barnes, David 2123 Dunedin Ave., St. Paul
Barker, Geo. H. 414 Owen St., Stillwater
Barrows, Walter A., Jr. Brainerd
Bates, W. K. Stockton
Batho, Geo. 406 Maryland St., Winnipeg, Man.
Baxter, Hector 4200 Park Blvd., Mpls.
Baumgartner, Joe Robbinsdale
Bassett, Mrs. H. S. Preston
Bazille, E. W. 606 Carroll, St. Paul
Bawman, F. J. 802 Edmond Ave. S. St. Paul
Bauer, Geo. Deerwood
Bawman, Mrs. J. N. Bricelyn
Bawman, Wm. Hayfield
Bathke, Fred 496 Aurora Ave., St. Paul
Bass, Mrs. G. Willis 1811 Bryant No., Mpls.
Bayle, P. J. Grand Marais
Bell, F. W. Hopkins
Becker, E. W. Excelsior
Becker, J. C. Adrian
Bell, F. J. Winona
Beatty, L. R. Orr
Beaver, H. M. Lake Park
Bemis, V. E. Inkster, N. D.
Beise, Geo. W. Morris
Beckman, J. F. 310 Webster Ave., St. Paul
Behrems, W. F. New Richmond, Wis.
Bena, Lincoln A. R. 2, Hopkins
Bell, J. F. Wayzata
Bechtel, Esler E. 125 Cedar St., Hibbing
Beck, C. J. 462 High Forest St., Winona
Belzer, F. L. Glasgow, Mont.
Benjamin, J. F. Hutchinson
Berger, Geo. Arlington
Berry, Frank Stillwater
Berthelsen, Christ Albert Lea
Berglund, Robt. Kensington
Berg, H. S. Clarkfield
Benson, A. O. Forest Service, Mont.
Benton, Henry W. Sec. Bk. Bldg., Mpls.
Berghold, Rev. Alexander Mooskirchen Steiermarck, Austria
Bennett, C. A. Granite Falls
Bernhardt, Thos. J. 815 Fidelity Bldg., Duluth
Bend, C. M. Commerce Bldg., St. Paul
Benson, Harry 4410 33rd Ave. So., Mpls.
Bergh, Otto I. Grand Rapids
Benner, T. W. No. St. Paul
Bergstrand, H. 915 E. Lawson St., St. Paul
Bernardy, Peter Taunton
Berg, Arthur, 953 German Ave., W. St. Paul
Bergstrom, N. A. 114 So. 18th Ave., E. Duluth
Benson, Andrew Jackson
Benson, Frank Stephen
Bennett, S. M. Drake, N. D.
Bergreen, Leslie Clarkfield
Bethke, H. Franklin
Betchwars, Frank Jordan
Bessette, F. W. Orr
Betzold, R. A. R. 1, St. Paul
Best, H. G. Faribault
Bayard, P. C. 2366 Carter Ave., St. Paul
Baumhofer, Earl F. R. 3, Box 40, Hopkins
Bates, J. H. 710 Somerset Blk., Winnipeg, Man.
Bawden, Mrs. J. 831 W. 7th St., Duluth
Bauer, Edward Cove
Bayly, Mrs. J. W. 2419 E. 2nd St., Duluth
Benke, Albert Dent
Berlin, A. N. Crystal Lake, Ill.
Berkner, Alfred Sleepy Eye, Ill.
Bender, Louis Wheaton
Berstrand, Dr. J. G. Menahga
Bergman, Mrs. Wm. Comfrey
Berdahl, A. A. Gernmell
Biermann, Henry Glencoe
Bisanz, Rudolph 1505 E. 24th St., Mpls.
Bickert, W. J. Washburn, N. D.
Biggs, S. Elizabeth Fairmount, N. D.
Bisbee, Clinton West Sumner, Me.
Bierwirth, Paul 1021 Winslow Ave., W. St. Paul
Billings, H. H. Pine Island
Bixly, Henry N. Richville
Bimebsero, W. A. Hinton, Ia.
Bittner, Geo. J. R. 2, Winona
Bill, Ambrose 984 Gorman Ave., W. St. Paul
Bjornlie, Thorwald Madison
Bjornberg, G. J. Willmar
Bjeldanes, N. H. Madison
Blaker, Rev. C. D. 4420 Grimes Ave., Mpls.
Blakestad, L Lyle
Blackmore, Hon. J. C. Christchurch, N. Z.
Bluhm, A. G. Biscay
Blessing, David S. 4 N. Court St., Harrisburg, Pa.
Black, G. D. Independence, Ia.
Blomberg, Fred Crosby
Blair, D. L. Winnebago
Blodgett, Mrs. H. A. 856 Fairmount Ave., St. Paul
Bloomer, Ed Sherburn
Blombeck, Alfred Eagle Bend
Blodgett, Mrs. F. S. 330 W. 3rd St., St. Paul
Blase, Fred So. St. Paul
Blackstad, Rudolph St. James
Blaker, M. H. Palmyra, N. Y.
Blood, Oscar F. Worthington
Bly, C. W. Osakis
Blair, Frank D. 26 Court House, Mpls.
Blodgett, P. L. 2913 Emerson So., Mpls.
Blazing, G. M. Deer River
Bjork, Fred Buffalo
Bjorge, Henry O. Lake Park
Bjordal, Einar Wild Rice, N. D.
Bosshard, Herman Moorhead
Boardman, Mrs. H. A 1336 River Blvd., St. Paul
Bollmann, Paul Balaton
Boline, J. A. Clarissa
Boelk, Ferd Lansing
Bock, John Wabasso
Born, Otto G. So. St. Paul
Bongie, Louis Bradley St. Sta., St. Paul
Bofferding, W. H. 1423 N. Emerson, Mpls.
Boeglin, Louis Park Greenhouses, 38th & Bryant, Mpls.
Borland, Robt. Excelsior
Boll, Jos. St. Bonifacius
Bondeson, Wm. Walnut Grove
Bodreen, Chas. J. Stillwater, R. 1, Box 6
Bottenmiller, L. H. Bertha
Bondhus, Thos. Storden
Bothun, B. E. Thief River Falls
Borreseh, Rev. Father Caledonia
Borning, B. J. Echo, R. 2
Borgendale, H. L. Madison
Boman, A. 2018 W. Supr. St., Duluth
Boone, C. L. Care of Chase Bros. Co., Rochester, N.Y.
Borchardt, A. W. Bellingham
Booth, Wm. Eagle Bend
Bosin, Mrs. F. W. Rapidan
Borgerding, John Freeport
Boraas, Julius 1319 E. Franklin, Mpls.
Boche, Herman H. Sunfish Rd. and Butler Ave., W. St. Paul
Botsford, F. P. Gilbert
Boerger, Wm. A. St. Cloud
Bowman, Dr. F. C. 119 6th Ave. W., Duluth
Boyington, Mrs. R. P. Nemadji
Bove, Peter St. F, R. 4, Mpls.
Boyd, J. B. Willmar
Bowen, Walter S. 347 Wabasha St., St. Paul
Boysen, P. B. Steen
Bozja, Rev. Vincent Morgan
Boyd, Montelle M. Stephen
Boyum, Iver A. Northfield
Bourduas, Frank 933 So. Robert St., W. St. Paul
Bowman, Mary Rothsay
Boxlang, Mrs. B. J. Kenyon
Boysen, Dr. Pelican Rapids
Boyd, Byron Long Prairie
Bovay, Arthur G. Lakefield
Boswell, L. R. Mpls. Paper Co., Mpls.
Brandt, P. C. Morris
Brandt, P. A. Erskine
Brand, A. M. Faribault
Bradrud, Albert Spring Valley
Braden, Mrs. Chas. E. 450 McKnight Bldg., Mpls.
Brakke, Albert Wild Rice, N.D.
Bradley, Geo. J. Norwood
Bradbury, W. W. 1724 E. 3rd St., Duluth
Brander, Mrs. J. R. 3, Hopkins
Brabetz, N. F. 915 3rd Ave. So., Mpls.
Brawnell, T. G. Grand Meadow
Bratan, F. M. Grand Meadow
Bray, N. J. Hovland
Bradford, F. H. Farmington
Bradley, Wm. Montpelier, N. D.
Brainard, Harold Turtle River
Bradley, Wilson Deerwood
Brevig, A. L. Starbuck
Briggs, H. W. Sanborn
Briggs, Geo. A. St. Peter
Bremer, John Lake City
Bringmeier, Fred J. Cass Lake
Brevig, C. L. Starbuck
Breyer, P. P. 3318 4th St. No., Mpls.
Brierley, Prof. W. D. Univ. Farm, St. Paul
Bren, Daniel Hopkins
Bredvold, Martin Greenbush
Bren, Rev. Jos. Hopkins
Brinkmann, Henry W. Glencoe
Breening, H. C. Balaton
Bremer, Leslie Cannon Falls
Brimeyer, H. Slayton
Brewer, I. C. St. Charles
Bren, Adolph Hopkins
Brewer, W. W. Orisko, N. D.
Bren, Geo. J. Hopkins
Bren, Jos. S. Hopkins
Bren, Frank E. Hopkins
Brinkman, Wm. 407 Erie St., St. Paul
Breide, Fred Deer River
Brown, Frank Paynesville
Brown, Mrs. G. T. 646 Hague Ave., St. Paul
Broberg, Peter New London
Broman, Aug. Atwater
Brunkow, Chas. A. Delano
Brown, Aug. Winthrop
Broden, Gust A. Murdock
Brown, H. A. Brownsdale
Brown, John A. Windom
Brummer, Henry W. Renville
Bruns, Henry Excelsior
Brooks, W. W. Long Prairie
Brogren, Olof Willmar
Brownlie, J. Roy Care of Flathead Natl. Bk.,
Kalispell, Mont.
Brodalen, H. A. Pelican Rapids
Brown, A. F. 2120 Como Ave., W. St. Paul
Brown, Clarence Z. 610 N. Y. Life, Mpls.
Brown, Mrs. G. W. St. Louis Park
Brown, Chas. G. Paynesville
Broman, Axel Milaca
Broker, Mrs. H. A. Collegeville
Brodalen, G. A. Ottosen, Iowa
Brumpton, Wm. Shevlin
Bugbie, A. E. Paynesville
Buchanan, D. P. Shoshone, Cal.
Buhler, E. O. Capitol, St. Paul
Bue, Thos. 3138 22nd Ave. S., Mpls.
Buehler, John G. 434 Main St. N. E., Mpls.
Buchloz, Aug. Osseo
Bull, M. Royal Crown Soap Co., Winnipeg, Man.
Bull, Geo. N. 4116 8th St. W., Calgary, Alta.
Bullard, W. H. 95 E. 6th St., St. Paul
Buol, Peter Wabasha
Buckeye, J. Lakefield
Bunn, T. H. Pine Island
Brombach, Jos. 3010 15th Ave. So., Mpls.
Brown, R. A. Lakefield
Brown, Rev. Geo. W. Wilson, Wis.
Brown, Clarence J. 629 Sec. Bk. Bldg., Mpls.
Brown, Mrs. J. F. 2412 Garfield, So., Mpls.
Brooker, H. W. Sauk Center
Burkee, John A. Roseau
Burnette, W. J. 1405 Como Ave. S. E., Mpls.
Burow, W. P. La Crescent
Burns, Mark. Cass Lake
Burfield, Geo. E. Shevlin
Burns, Chris Cass Lake
Burke, T. J. Bemidji
Burrows, Mrs. A. L., Box 355, White Bear
Burbeck, E. W. 106 E. Winona St., Duluth
Burquist, A. E. Lindstrom
Burnett, John Torrey Bldg., Duluth
Burns, John J. Hopkins
Burkhard, Miss L. S. White Bear Lake
Burness, B. 328 Security Bk. Bldg., Mpls.
Burch, Edward P. 1729 James So., Mpls.
Burch, Frank E. 754 Linwood Place, St. Paul
Busch, Fred Lyndale Ave. S. and 50th St., Mpls.
Bussey, L. M. 1814 Hamline Ave. S. E., Mpls.
Buttrud, Mrs. J. H. 51 Luverne Ave., Mpls.
Busch, Bernh. Lyndale Ave. S. and 50th St., Mpls.
Buth & Co., W. F. 298 Univ. Ave., St. Paul
Butterfield, F. J. Long Lake
Bussey, W. H. 511 Beacon St., Mpls.
Bute, Chas M. R. 4, Jackson
Bush, O. D. Barron, Wis.
Byrnes, Dr. W. J. 207 Masonic Temple, Mpls.
Bye, C. M. New Brighton
Bye, J. T. R. 1, New Brighton
Byrne, Mrs. M. E. 6544 Fafayette Ave., Chicago
Cairns, Miss Gertrude M. Ellsworth, Wis.
Cant, W. A. Duluth
Campbell, E. R. Excelsior
Carniff, Mrs. Laura J. 185 W. Brompton St., W. St. Paul
Canning, Richard Orchard Gardens, Mpls.
Cadoo, H.T. 988 Gorman Ave., W. St. Paul
Campbell, Mrs. B. B. Sta. F., Mpls.
Cadwell, B. D. Hastings, Box 295
Callahan, John St. Charles
Campbell, H. E. H. Willmar
Cameron, John A. 2503 Lyndale No., Mpls.
Campbell, D. G. 959 26th Ave. N.E., Mpls.
Cady, E. N. Lewiston
Cannon, Mrs. Newton Superior, Wis., 1517 John Ave.
Campbell, Mrs. H. A. 55 E. 4th St., St. Paul
Carlson, C. H. Fertile
Carmen, C. A. Hankinson, N. D.
Carruthers, J. T. Willmar
Carlson, And. Grandy
Carey, Geo. W. Lidgerwood, N.D.
Carlson, C. W. Mound
Carpenter, F. H. 121 W. Franklin, Mpls.
Carlson, John Care of Carlson & Hasslen, Ortonville
Carnahan, E. J. Longville
Carter, A. N. Howard Lake
Carlson, Mrs. Wm. 6005 London R., Duluth
Carpenter, M. B. Hotel Aberdeen, St. Paul
Carlson, Peter Mohall, N. D.
Carlson, J. A. 3410 18th Ave. S., Mpls.
Carlson, Rev. C. W. 711 10th Ave. So., Mpls.
Carlson, John Kimball
Carlson, Oscar 2739 15th Ave. S., Mpls.
Carlson, Axel Manhattan Bldg., Fergus Falls
Carll, Norman Waltham
Carlson, G. D. R. 2, Buffalo
Carlson, Janas R. 2, Esmond, N. D.
Cary, H. E. Jenkins
Carey, Mrs. F. R. R. 2, Robbinsdale
Carr, M. J. 682 Stryker Ave., St. Paul
Carver, J. 2312 17th Ave. So., Mpls.
Carlson, Mrs. Jno. R. 3, Hopkins
Carribou, Farris Twig
Carlson, G. C. Tower
Carlson, J. 3402 Cedar Ave So., Mpls.
Catlin, T. J., M.D. Palisade
Cash, W. H. H. New Lisbon, Wis.
Case, L. S. 1413 Merc. Natl. Bank Bldg., St. Paul
Cedergren. E. A. Lindstrom
Cecil, R. E. Gen. Del., McKeesport, Pa.
Cecka, John Lonsdale
Charlson, S. Dennison
Chamberlain, V. M. Spring Valley
Chalberg, Chas. Kandiyohi
Chapman, C. P. Dent
Chatfield, Mrs. E. C. Mound
Chase, Jas. J. Farmington
Chamberlain, W. D. Albert Lea
Chapman, Ed. A. Redwood Falls
Chamberlain, Louis M. 54th St. and Pillsbury, Mpls.
Charlton, R. 2049 Robinson, Regina, Sask.
Chapman, Sidney 158 E. Haskel St., W. St. Paul
Charvat, Frank Brocket, N. D.
Chapman, R. W. Plainview
Chase, Mrs. A. G. Faribault
Chaffee, H. L. Amenia, N. D.
Chamber of Commerce Brainerd
Cheney, W. H. Olivia
Christopherson, K. O. Zumbrota
Christopherson, Chris Camden Place, Mpls.
Cherney, J. W. Winslow and Arion Sts., W. St. Paul
Chrystoph, John 525 2d St., Hudson, Wis.
Chrudinsky, Mrs. Robt. J. Lakewood
Chinn, W. P. Care Ella Mine, Gilbert
Chinlund, H. A. 13th & S. Park St., Red Wing
Cheyney, Prof. E. G. Univ. Farm, St. Paul
Chute, L. P. Chute Bldg., Mpls.
Cheney, Mrs. W. B. 4237 Washburn Ave., Mpls.
Christman, W. F. 3804 5th Ave. S., Mpls.
Christiansen, Peder C. Dagoner, Mont.
Christenson, Chris R. 3, Box 39, Albert Lea
Chradle, Mrs. W. E. Cleveland
Chermack, W. R. Hopkins
Christie, R. G. Canby
Cherveny, John J. Zimmerman
Chelmen, B. E. Georgeville
Christenson, Abraham Deerwood
Christenson, C. G. Deerwood
Christopherson, Chas. G. 4116 45th Ave. S., Mpls.
Cherveny, Joe Zimmerman
Christenson, Miss Nancy Mandan, N. D.
Chemak, Otto R. 1, Hopkins
Christian, Jas. Sherburn
Christensen, M. 951 Goff Ave., W. St. Paul
Christensen, Aug. Little Falls
Cherry, M. M. N. St. Paul
Cinkl, Albert Blooming Prairie
Child, F. S. R. 1, Hopkins
Christy Color Printing
Eng., Inc. 179 St. Paul St., Rochester, N.Y.
Clemons, L. A. Storm Lake, Ia.
Clarkson, Stewart F. St. Charles
Clausen, P. Albert Lea
Cleator, Frederic W. Forest Service, Republic, Wash.
Cleator, W. P. 1400 Wash. Ave. N., Mpls.
Clark, Mrs. A. Y. Box 237, White Bear
Clague, Frank Redwood Falls
Clark, R. J. Eden Prairie
Clementsen, Nels Fertile
Clausen, T. A. Lakeshore Greenhouses, Albert Lea
Clark, Geo. S. 27 5th Ave. S., St. Cloud
Clement, C. C. Mosier, Oregon
Clapp, Edw. S. 770 Hamline Ave., N. St. Paul
Clark, Jas. Williams
Clark, Newell E. 5030 Emerson S., Mpls.
Clark, E. E. Eden Prairie
Clark, H. B. Pine Island
Clausen, Hans Sleepy Eye
Clum, Miss K. M. R. 4, St. Paul
Clark, D. F. 2110 Bryant S., Mpls.
Cleveland, Henry 603 15th Ave. E., Duluth
Colling, Jas. H. Inkster, N. D.
Coffin, W. F. Homer
Converse, T. R. Stillwater
Constance, Wm. Hopkins
Colburn, Otis L. Excelsior
Congdon, John S. R. 5, Box 83 Fort Collins, Colo.
Colb, John F. 3442 20th Ave. S., Mpls.
Coffin, E. C. 2449 Garfield Ave., Mpls.
Colban, Walter H. 307 4th Ave., Pittsburgh, Pa.
Coffman, G. W. Wadena
Conrad, Maud A. Montevideo
Congdon, J. W. 2620 Blaisdell, Mpls.
Colburn, G. B. R. 6, St. Cloud
Conklin, Marion Jamestown, N. D.
Coffron, Geo. Box 74, Biwabik
Cole, Geo. Penturen
Conners, J. B. Hibbing
Collins, J. C. Mound
Cocker, Walter Lanesboro
Colby, F. L. Enfield, N. H.
Conrad, Emil R.R., Collis
Commandros, Tom Golden Rule Floral Dept., St. Paul
Colman, I. W. 519 11th Ave. S.E., Mpls.
Coleman, D. A. R. 2, Aitkin
Constance, Geo. I. Cumberland, Wis.
Coffey, Mrs. J. A. Jamestown, N. D.
Cobb, E. R. 175 E. Winona St., Duluth
Cook, A. D. 225 Kasota Blk., Mpls.
Corser, Fred 615 James N., Mpls.
Cornwell, E. C. Minnesota City
Cornell, T. H. 815 Fidelity Bldg., Duluth
Cornetinson, C. O. Watson
Cook, Geo. Menahga
Cooper, Mrs. D. H. Winnipeg, Man.
Cook, Geo. H. Care Golden Rule, Red Wing
Cook, E. W. Cleveland
Corwin, Ellis Cove
Cornwell, L. L. Pine Island
Cornell Univ. Library Ithaca, N.Y.
Crowe, W. H. Osakis
Crowell, Dr. I. G. Shell Lake, Wis.
Cramer, Dr. Geo. P. 686 Syndicate Bldg., Mpls.
Cross, Mrs. Jane Sauk Rapids
Crooks, Mrs. John S. 803 Commerce Bldg., St. Paul
Crooks, John S. 803 Commerce Bldg., St. Paul
Crocker, F. E. Morgan
Crossett, C. N. Faribault
Cuzner, E. A. Univ. Ave. & 13th St. S.E., Mpls.
Cutting, S. Carnegie, Man.
Cummings, Geo. W. R. 3, Box 118, Mpls.
Currie, W. A. 816 Summit Ave., Mpls.
Cutler, W. R. Claremont, S. D.
Cutler, John Glencoe
Custer, C. C. Howard Lake
Custer, Orrin O. Cokato
Curtis, J. W. G. 810 Globe Bldg., St. Paul
Cummins, Miss Beatrice Barnum
Cutting, M. C. Care "The Farmer," St. Paul
Curran, Dr. F. 2612 13th Ave. S., Mpls.
Cushing, Luther S. Osceola, Wis.
Cowles, F. J. West Concord
Coultas, R. W. Worthington
Cote, L. Grasston
Covington, Thos. E. 1793 Ashland Ave., St. Paul
Countryman, A. D. Appleton
Countryman, Mrs. M. L. 218 S. Avon St., St. Paul
Coy, Sherman L. Cloquet
Cox, Wm. T. Capitol, St. Paul
Cowling, C. N. 184 W. Robie St., St. Paul
Courtney, M. J. Glencoe
Cowling, Mrs. Chas. N. 184 W. Robie St., St. Paul
Cox, L. A. 436 Syndicate Blk., Mpls.
Cox, Hanford Ely
Court, Harry Warroad
Crassweller, Arthur 4230 E. Superior St., Duluth
Cramer, Fred Mapleton
Crane, R. E. Grand Meadow
Crafts, Robt. H. Mound
Crane, W. I. 810 Buch St., New York
Crabtree, Mack H. Mott, N. D.
Crewe, Percy S. Mohall, N. D.
Crandall, H. H. Morristown
Crane, Benj. W. Spring Valley
Dahl, Louis D. Atwater
Dablen, O. E. Albert Lea
Dahl, F. A. Chisago City
Danielson, Solomon Rothsay
Dale, O. G. Madison
Dahlheimer, Frank Anoka
Dahl, H. P. Isanti
Dalzell, W. E. Hinckley
Daily, D. 2508 17th Ave. S., Mpls.
Daniel, T. W. Care M. Thorson, R. 1, Wayzata
Dahl, H. M. 929 Central Ave., Red Wing
Dahlquist, C. A. Popple
Dalberg, Mrs. A. O. Amery, Wis.
Dangers, Fred Sleepy Eye
Dahl, Mrs. A. O. 490 W. 4th St., Superior, Wis.
Daigle, A. A. Forest Lake
Danzl, Jos. J. Melrose
Day, Stephen Northfield
Davison, A. H. State House, Des Moines, Ia.
Darling, Dr. C. H. 697 Endicott Arcade, St. Paul
Davis, L. G. Sleepy Eye
Davis, H. H. Placeville, Cal.
Davis & Ferree Waukee, Iowa
Darrow, Geo. M. Bureau of Plant Industry, Washington, D.C.
Davenport, W. R. Dennison
Davis, T. A. Esmond, N. D.
Dasher, C. A. Buffalo Lake
Deline, W. F. Cannon Falls
Decker, J. S. Austin
DeLong, T. R. Halliday
DeForest, Geo. Owatonna
DeCamp, J. L. Eureka
Deighton, C. H. 902 Wolvin Bldg., Duluth
Denson, W. A. Hasty
Deatharage, Mrs. Robt. 2428 Portland Ave., Mpls.
Deebach, Herman 364 Maple St., St. Paul
Deebach, E. A. Dayton Bluff Sta., St. Paul
DeLameter, Mrs. J. 4920 Morgan Ave. N., Mpls.
Dempsey, Thos. St. Peter
Dean, Harold Care Thorpe Bros., Andrus Bldg., Mpls.
DeSmidt, A. A. Battle Lake
Desmond, W. 3501 Portland Ave., Mpls.
Derickson, G. P. 238 W. Franklin Ave., Mpls.
DePuy, A. C. Park Rapids
DeWolf, Mrs. D. F. 654 Hague Ave., St. Paul
Dexter, Mrs. W. K. Mound
Devore, F. J. 972 S. Robert St., St. Paul
Deplages, N. J. R. 2, York, N.D.
Dept. of Agric. Ottawa, Out.
Diethelm, M. Victoria
Dittbenner, R. C. Sleepy Eye
Dickenson, W. C. Anoka
Dixon, Jas. K. Box 6, North St. Paul
Dille, Peter O. Dassel
Dike, Henry B. Hotel Berkeley, Mpls.
Dill, Joe Victoria
Distad, O. O. Hayfield
Dickinson, Sherman 3127 4th Ave. S., Mpls.
Dittmer, Gus Augusta, Wis.
Dillman, A. C. Newell, S. D.
Dispatch Prtg. Co.,
C. F. Blandin, Mgr., St. Paul
Dickey, Mrs. Agnes T. Esmond, N. D.
Dixon, Dr. Frank Mora
District Insp. of
Forest Reserve Winnipeg, Man.
Dill, Albert St. Bonifacius
Dobbin, J. J. Excelsior
Doll, P. J. 2303 Bryant Ave. N., Mpls.
Dockham, A. T. Eagle Bend
Dodge, Clayton J. Moose Lake
Dobbin, W. J. Excelsior
Dodge, E. J. Hector
Doerfler, Jos. 1919 Fillmore St. N.E., Mpls.
Dodgson, Sam Clearwater
Dobble, Mrs. Edwin 1385 Raymond Ave., St. Paul
Dodge, Ben Mankato
Dobbs, David E. Indus
Donaldson, Mrs. W. N. 216 Palmett Ave., Duluth
Dodson, T. R. Nashwauk
Dominican Fathers 18th Ave. and 24th St., Mpls.
Doring, Rev. F. M. Rogers
Dowler, W. A. Fort Williams, Ont.
Dorr, W. F. 1132 Lbr. Ex., Mpls.
Doyle, W. J. Fern Ave. and Lake St., St. Louis Park
Dorland, W. H. Dayton Bluff Sta., R. 4, St. Paul
Downing, W. J. Ronneby, R. 2
Downing, Lloyd St. Charles
Doories, Mrs. A. Fridley
Down, J. J. 303 Medical Blk., Mpls.
Douglas, W. B. 805 Commerce Bldg., St. Paul
Drake, Mrs. H. T. 435 Portland Ave., St. Paul
Drisko, Mrs. E. M. 3913 Garfield, Mpls.
Dreuttel, Albert Cleveland
Drebert, Alexander F. 1769 Iglehart Ave., St. Paul
Dtessely, L. J. Gatzke
Durand, Albert Waseca
Dunn, John W. G. 1033 Lincoln Ave., St. Paul
Dunn, W. W. 2143 Princeton Ave., St. Paul
Dubbelis, Joe Lincoln
Dunning, Dr. A. W. 803 Lowry Bldg., St. Paul
Dunning, Frank Anoka
Dunsmore, Dr. F. A. 100 Andrus Bldg, Mpls.
Duel, Robt. Sauk Center
Duesterhoeft, Adolph 1021 Hall Ave., W. St. Paul
Dunn, A. C. Duluth
Duncan, Alvin Redwood Falls
Dvorak, John Hopkins
Dubbels, Chas. W. Viola
Dunbar, S. J. Elkhorn, Wis.
Dunlop, W. B. 2013 Waverly Ave., Duluth
Dvorak, Frank Montgomery
Dunsmore, Thos. Danube
Dvorak, Alley Hopkins, R. 3
Duerr, Dr. W. P. Lake City
Durham, Sabin Grygla
Dybig, Nursery Colton, N. D.
Dysinger, S. D. 24 W. 5th St., St. Paul
Dykema, Ben Raymond
Dyer, C. H. 2824 10th Ave. S., Mpls.
Eastgate, J. E. Larimore, N. D.
Earle, C. E. Park Rapids
Earney, Andrew 2617 Western Ave., Seattle, Wash.
Eberhart, A. L. Austin
Ebersperger, Mrs. 2008 Girard N., Mpls.
Eckenbeck, S. C. Appleton
Eckberg, Aug. Winthrop
Edlund, E. Detroit
Eddy, C. T. R. 4, Willmar
Edson, W. D. Libby
Eddy, Vernon Hyland Sta. N., Mpls.
Edwards, Frank Gilbert
Edden, G. St. Croix Falls, Wis.
Edgerton, Mrs. E. A. 2720 Bryant So., Mpls.
Edwards, O. T. Grand Meadow
Edny, F. S. Goodthunder
Effertz, Peter Norwood
Egnell, A. Howard Lake
Eisengraler, Dr. G. A. Granite Falls
Eidem, P. C. Clarkfield
Eisenach, W. L. Aitkin
Eklund, P. A. Willmar
Ekelund, C. A. Hopkins
Ellison, F. H. Linden Falls, R. 2, Mpls.
Elliott, W. J. Albertville
Ellingson, S. Sta. F., R. 4, Mpls.
Elstrom, F. O. Atwater
Elliott, P. P. Grand Rapids
Elwell, J. T. 945 14th S.E., Mpls.
Elliott, Miss Martha R. Stillwater, R. No. 5
Ellison, Miss Sabra Sta. F, R. 2, Linden Falls, Mpls.
Elliott, H. J. Hopkins, R. 3
Elofson, J. S. Hasty
Elsenpeter, H. J. Buffalo
Elgren, Mrs. Harry Red Top
Ely, Dr. Jas. O. Winnetka, Ill.
Eliason, Alfred J. Corrall, R. 2
Ellingson, G. T. 2315 W. 10th St., Duluth
Ellis, G. C. West Salem, Wis.
Ehler, Geo. 880 Euclid St., St. Paul
Emmans, N. H. 1736 James Ave. S., Mpls.
Emberland, John 1989 Selby Ave., St. Paul
Empy, Clarence L. Eureka
Emerson, Byron T. 4314 Grimes Ave., Mpls.
Emerson, John H. 1114 Argyle St., St. Paul
Endsley, P. M. Minneapolis
Engel, Rev. Peter 1456 Leland Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Engel, Rev. Peter Collegeville
Engleson, I. J. Montevideo
Engman, A. E. Hallock, R. 1, Box 47
Englestad, Louisa Thief River Falls, R. 3
English, Mrs. C. E. 2691 Lake of Isles Blvd., Mpls.
Engen, Gilbert A. Finley, N. D., R. 1
Emerson, A. F. Grand Portage
Engel, A. W. Esmond, N. D.
Enroth, A. L. Orr
Erwin, D. A. Waseca
Erkel, F. C. Rockford
Erickson, Oliver Atwater
Erne, F. X. 887 Goff Ave., St. Paul
Erikson, E. D. Wegdahl
Erikson, John W. Aitkin
Erikson, C. O. Watson, Box 182
Erb, E. C. Red Wing
Erling, Frank, Jr. 37 W. Belvidere St., W. St. Paul
Essig, Aug. Sanborn
Essene, Mrs. Anna 3421 Longfellow Ave., Mpls.
Eshelby, E. C. 400 Shubert Bldg., St. Paul
Escher, Sam'l C. Slayton
Erickson, A. B. 114 Mill St., N., Fergus Falls
Erickson, Chas. Northland
Erickson, Wm. M. Courthouse, Red Wing
Erickson, Emil H. R. 2, Maynard
Erickson, L. W. 4541 35th Ave. S., Mpls.
Erickson, Oscar Dalton
Erickson, K. A. Pequot
Erickson, May 2522 10th Ave. S., Mpls.
Evans, John L. 424 2nd Ave. E., Duluth
Everett, Mrs. G. W. Waseca
Ewing, A. L. River Falls, Wis.
Ewald, Julius Cumberland, Wis.
Ewing, Prof. Jas. Northfield
Cecil, E. E. McKeesport, Pa., Gen. Del.
Fairfax, Mrs. J. F. 4869 S. Aldrich, Mpls.
Faehn, F. J. Wallace, S. D.
Fagerlie, I. F. Clarkfield
Fabian, Edwin 1914 Jefferson Ave., St. Paul
Fabian, Norman J. St. Paul Park
Fairchild, D. L. 500 Lonsdale Bldg., Duluth
Fabel, P. H. Buffalo Lake
Fairchild, Mrs. D. L. Tamarack
Fairfield, Chas. R. 1313 4th Ave. S., Mpls.
Fairchild. L. G. Shevlin
Farrar, F. F. White Bear
Farmer, C. R. Ada
Fanning, Miss Mary 756 E. 6th St., St. Paul
Farmer, E. A. Sta. F., R. 2, Mpls.
Farrell, D. H. New London, R. 2
Farel, Chas. A. Buffalo
Farcier, Peter Buffalo Lake
Farcier, V. E. Stewart
Faurat, F. S. 816 5th Ave. S.E., Mpls.
Farnham, Jas. M. St. Cloud, 503 St. German St.
Farrar, O. R. Albert Lea, R. 4, Box 14
Featherston, S. T. Red Wing
Ferodowill, F. X. Wayzata
Felland, Prof. O. G. Northfield
Feleen, Nels N. Willmar
Fergerson, W. C. Litchfield
Feesl, Vinz. Cor. Winslow & Arion, St. Paul
Fell, Henry Janesville, R. 6
Fesenbeck, J. A. Cloquet
Featherstone, J. S. Hastings
Fieske, C. A. Sleepy Eye
Finch, Mrs. Mary Care Duluth-News Tribune, Duluth
Fisher, Thos. A. Waverly Hotel, Mpls.
Fitzer, Chas. Robbinsdale
Fink, Christian Waconia
Fisher, Geo. A. 221 1st St. N., Mpls.
Finke, E. H. Spring Valley
Finkle, Miss Kate 2760 W. River Blvd., Mpls.
Finke, E. R. Waterville
Fischer, W. C. Linden Hills Sta., R. 3, Mpls.
Fitzer, H. Luverne
Fish, L. L. Wayzata, R. 2
Finstad, Jos. 1014 Edgerston St., St. Paul
Fiedler, Mike J. Dent
Fisher, Walter I. 2432 Girard So., Mpls.
Fisher, F. J. Buffalo Lake
Finnegan, Pat Thorp, Wis.
Fjelde, G. J. Madison
Flint, H. R. Dubois, Wyo.
Flagstad, J. Sacred Heart
Flint, Henry W. R. 4, Box 125, Tacoma, Wash.
Flood, E. J. Newman Grove, Neb.
Floreen, Swan Constance
Flygare, Hans H. Atwater
Flynn, A. E. 978 Allen Ave., St. Paul
Flath, Jos. A. R. 28, Plymouth, Wis.
Fletcher, Mrs. F. S. 3148 Irving So., Mpls.
Flyen, Henry Dawson
Flint, P. P. Osakis
Ford, F. H. Maple Plain, R. No. 3
Ford, A. J. New Rockford, N. D.
Folden, P. Rollag, R. No. 2
Foss, Elizabeth H. 501 E. River Blvd., Mpls.
Forest Supervisor Ely
Forest Supervisor Cass Lake
Foerster, Fred E. 766 Rondo St., St. Paul
Foley, T. H. Manchester
Folske, Otto H. 132 W. Lucy St., W. St. Paul
Fordyce, G. W. Newport
Foster, I. D. Sandsone
Fox, O. A. 1914 Lincoln Ave., St. Paul
Foster, Mrs. Mary D. Foley
Forsam, Albert Madison
Forbes, B. W. 231 W. Winona St., Duluth
Fritcher, C. E. Hancock
Frye, P. H. Willmar
Freeman, Gust E. Red Wing
Freeman, C. H. Zumbrota
Frydholm, Martin Albert Lea
Fredrickson, Wm. Perley
Frank, Albert D. Wood Lake
Frederickson, C. A. Elk River, R. 3, Box 65
Freese, F. M. Bemidji
Froshaug, David Albee, S. D.
Freeman, Mrs. H. G. St. Louis Park
France, L. V. 2309 Priscello Sta., St. Paul
Frazier, T. F. Cloquet, 1116 Cloquet Ave.
Fryer, Willis E. Mantorville
Franzel Bros. 850 Laurel Ave., St. Paul
Franklin, Mrs. Anna J. R. 1, Box 47, Fridley
Frey, Math. Taunton
Frey, Frank Taunton
Fratke, Julius Pemberton
French, W. L. Austin
Freeman, Nels Scanlon
Fraling, Rev. J. Stephen
Froslan, Peder H. Flaxville, Mont.
Frederickson, P. B. Davenport, N. D.
Fruske, K. A. Brooten
Freeman, Edmund Park Rapids
Frazer, P. C. Pelican Rapids
Frazer, H. E. Pelican Rapids
Frey, Mrs. Frank St. Peter
Frink, Mrs. E. L. Faribault
Frey, Aug. J. 1519 E. 2nd St., Duluth
Fraund, Mrs. S. 73 Western Ave. N., St. Paul
Fuller, E. D. 3421 Longfellow S., Mpls.
Fuller, F. E. Deerwood
Fuller, H. M. Deerwood
Fulcrut, S. G. Goodhue, R. 5, St. Paul
Fuhrman, John Albany
Fuller, E. E. 204 W. Winona St., Duluth
Fuller, Mrs. C. A. Hopkins, R. 1
Fyfe, H. L. Drake, N. D.
Galloway, J. E. Austin
Gammell, Dr. H. W. Madison
Galle, A. C. Madison
Galletin, John M. 887 Gorman Ave. W., St. Paul
Gaida, N. A. Holdingford
Gafke, R. J. Woodstock, Ill.
Gallagher, John Amery, Wis.
Gallion, Orville Opstead
Gastfield, A. F. Victor, Mont., R. 1, Box 210
Garlick, Eva E. Janesville
Gaspard, J. P. Caledonia
Gates, L. D. Winnebago
Garlough, A. L. White Bear, R. 1
Gaylord, L. E. 981 Pacific Ave., St. Paul
Ganzer, Mrs. John Como Phelan, St. Paul
Garvey, Chas. H. 4453 Lyndale So., Mpls.
Gardner, Franc E. 1704 Humboldt Bldg., Chicago, Ill.
Garrott, Jane Bald Eagle, White Bear, care D. Keefe
Gates, Stephen Hopkins, R. No. 3
Gantzer, Daniel Merriam Park, R. 1
Garber, M. J. Dent
Garand, Dr. J. H. Dayton
Gates, J. M. Pickwick
Gesner, Frank 397 Brimhall St., St. Paul
Gerdsen, Henry Waconia
Gearty, T. G. Robbinsdale
Gessner, Oscar Forest Lake, R. 2
George, E. S. Graetlinger, Ia.
Germond, Miss M. 413 Exchange Bldg., Duluth
Gerten, Frank L. South St. Paul
Gerlach, Mrs. A. F. 1262 Dayton, St. Paul
Gerber, A. H. 1594 Portland Ave., St. Paul
Gerrish, Harry E. 822 Plymouth Bldg., Mpls.
Gerhard, Ray C. 2712 So. Bryant, Mpls.
Gembo, Elmer J. Wayzata
Gerdes, Chas. 1916 Dupont So., Mpls.
Gerhard, Gergen Cannon Falls
George, R. R. Hopkins
Germond, W. H. 3009 Nic. Ave., Mpls.
Gertsmann, Frank Morgan
Getty, D. C. Mapleton
Gibbs, Miss Ida W. Merriam Park, R. No. 1, Box 107
Gibbs, A. B. Tower
Gibbs, M. L. Echo, R. No. 2
Gibson, Thos. 1907 Waverly Ave., Duluth
Gimmestad, M. O. Belview
Gippe, Miss Louise Watson
Gile, Mrs. S. A. 3136 Irving S., Mpls.
Ginter, E. W. Stewartville
Gillespie, May E. R. 1, Linden Hills, Mpls.
Gilby, Jas. 3204 16th Ave. S., Mpls.
Gillespie, Miss Anna 2528 38th Ave. S., Mpls.
Gillespie, I. H. R. 1, Box 55, Anoka
Gipson, E. H. Faribault
Gjerset, Oluf Montevideo
Glyer, Alfred Forest Lake
Glaspell, Bernard Jamestown, N. D.
Glessner, Mrs. Frank 3840 Sheridan Ave. S., Mpls.
Glenzke, Louis M. Glen Lake via Hopkins
Glass, Walter River Falls, Wis.
Goodman, D. E. Faribault
Goldsmith, Mrs. H. Cleveland
Goelz, Mike Brooten
Goltz, John Havana, N. D.
Goldberg, B. M. 2418 E. 3rd St., Duluth
Gooch, H. I. 3808 Woodland Ave., Duluth
Goetz, Edgar A. 2186 Doswell Ave., St. Paul
Gould, Mrs. Edward 2644 Humboldt S., Mpls.
Gormley, J. 2727 Taylor St. N.E., Mpls.
Gordon, W. A. 627 2nd Ave. S., Mpls.
Gowdy, Louis 3751 Aldrich S., Mpls.
Gough, E. Estevan, Sask.
Gordon, C. H. Owatonna
Goltz, A. L. Balaton
Gotts, Oscar Maple Plain
Gowdy, Miss Chestine Faribault
Goss, Sam Atlantic, Ia.
Grant, L. R. Battle Lake
Gray, Elmer W. 3443 Pleasant Ave., Mpls.
Grandahl, R. L. Red Wing
Graves, D. N. Faribault
Grasselli Chemical Co. St. Paul
Granger, A. H. Correll
Graff, Fred 2501 23rd Ave. S., Mpls.
Grant, Harry C. Faribault
Graham, L. G. 2338 Doswell Ave., St. Paul
Granquist, Chas. 915 W. Abbott St., Stillwater
Gray, N. H. Fergus Falls
Greaza, A. E. R. 4, St. Paul
Gregory, H. Jordan
Green, Wm. Morgan
Greening. C. F. Grand Meadow
Greene, Dr. Chas. L. 324 Summit Ave., St. Paul
Greene, Michael E. 617 Warrent St., St. Paul
Green, F. M. Menahga
Greene, Alfred Grand Meadow
Grettum, Wm. 1417 8th Ave. E., Duluth
Green, John C. 4730 London Rd., Duluth
Gregg, Kenneth 112 Lbr. Exch., Mpls.
Groat, H. G. Anoka
Grimm, Ben 2418 E. 4th St., Duluth
Griswold, A. A. Long Lake
Grosse, E. A. La Moille
Grover, Gust. A. Glyndon
Grunig, A. C. Cloquet
Griesgraber, Jos. 86 W. Morton, W. St. Paul
Groff, N. S. West Side Sta., R. 1, W. St. Paul
Griese, E. T. Hibbing
Griffith, Edith 1307 4th Ave. S., Mpls.
Gruhlke, Wm. H. Jackson
Grier, Hazelton 1938 Robbyn Ave., Merriam Park
Gronna, A. T. Waterville, Ia.
Gruber, John Lakefield
Grindeland, A. Warren
Gryte, E. K. Ruthton
Grunig, W. R. 225 Av. C, Cloquet
Gunderman, H. Wabasha
Gustafson, Alfred Long Prairie
Gundlach, Miss Carrie M. White Bear
Gustafson, W. H. Montevideo
Gunn, D. M. Grand Rapids
Gustafson, Frank A. Warman
Gustner, E. R. 3, Hopkins
Guthnecht, B. 879 Oakdale Ave. W., St. Paul
Gullette, Albert 2622 Fillmore St. N.E., Mpls.
Gustafson, Chas. R. 3, Duluth
Gunderson, G. Box 127, Webster, S. D.
Gulbranson, R. Thief River Falls
Guthunz, Mrs. W. M. 1637 Hague Ave., St. Paul
Hakel, Adolph Silver Lake
Hadley, Emerson 123 Farrington, St. Paul
Hagen, L. E. Fountain
Haack, Chas. E. Mound
Haakenson, Hjalmer Boyd
Hagen, F. A. Lake City
Hage, Paul J. Hanska
Haecker, Prof. F. L. Exp. Sta., St. Paul
Haas, Rev. L. 5115 9th St., St. Paul
Haines, M. T. 177 Woodland Ave., Fairmont
Hager, John 613 Van Buren, St. Paul
Haeg, Mrs. E. H. R. 1, Sta. F, Mpls.
Hackett, J. E. 187 Malcolm Ave. S.E., Mpls.
Hahn, M. D. Amiret
Haglund, O. N. Eastwood
Hagen, Severt Waseca
Hagnie, Donald 707 Fairmount Ave., St. Paul
Haining, John. A. Brookston
Haering, J. J. Jordan
Haglund, Mrs. Aug. Red Top
Haglund, Gust. Red Top
Halverson, Alfred Spring Grove
Hall, R. F. New Auburn
Hallstrom, C. O. Box 185, Red Wing
Hall, L. P. Deerwood
Hall, Mrs. C. E. C. 3036 Portland Ave., Mpls.
Hall, T. W. 251 Cham. of Com., Mpls.
Halden, F. E. Mound
Halbert, C. W. 203 Dispatch Bldg., St. Paul
Halverson, L. Shevlin
Halverson, Jacob Delavan
Halvorsen, A. S. Albert Lea
Halvorson, H. S. Brooten
Hall, S. O. 621 Erie St. S. E., Mpls.
Halverson, M. J. Medina, N. D.
Hale, W. H. 1042 McKnight Bldg., Mpls.
Hall, Stanley Grygla
Hammer, F. O. 2144 Princeton St., St. Paul
Hanselman, Jos. 1677 Adrian St., St. Paul
Hanger, Jacob Wyoming
Hanson, N. P. Hutchinson
Hansen, Geo. W. 1104 Doud Ave., Bemidji
Hanson, Henry Graceville
Hanson, Albert T. R. 10, Fergus Falls
Hanson, M. C. Clarkfield
Hanson, Frank W. Box 711, Litchfield
Hanover, R. F. Winona
Hammer, E. A. St. Charles
Hansen, Peter R. 1, Box 35, S. St. Paul
Hanus, Adolph R. 2, Hopkins
Hanlos, Augusta Donaldson, Wis.
Hanson, R. B. Ladysmith, Wis.
Hanna, M. M. D. & I. R. Ry., Duluth
Hamustrom, C. J. New Brighton
Handy, A. M. Granada
Hansen, H. F. Albert Lea
Hansen, Chris Albert Lea
Hanson, Simon J. Dawson
Hanson, Jas. F. Fertile
Hanson, C. L. Fertile
Hammer, M. E. Heiberg
Hanson, L. O. R. 1, Box 68, Red Wing
Hanson, A. L. Ada
Ham, Geo. S. R. 2, Aitkin
Hanson, H. C. Barnum
Hansen, Phil Capitol, St. Paul
Hanson, O. W. New Richland
Hanson, O. M. R. 1, Ulen
Hanson, Ivan Clarissa
Hanford, Arthur 2027 Woodland Ave., Duluth
Harrison, F. M. Glenwood
Harrison, H. W. R. 6, Rochester
Hartman, Frank Iona
Harold, Geo. E. Maiden Rock, Wis.
Harper, J. L. Lock Box 1006, Mpls.
Hartwick, Ole Granite Falls
Harris, A. W. Sleepy Eye
Harseim, Louis B. Aitkin
Hartig, Wm. Hopkins
Harris, W. S. 2449 Pillsbury Ave., Mpls.
Harnden, C. H. Fairmont
Hardwick, Mrs. B. G. 4419 Fremont S., Mpls.
Hastings, C. C. Buffalo
Habison, E. H. 227 Anoka St., Duluth
Harris, Mrs. John 3000 E. 25th St., Mpls.
Hart, Frank Cleveland
Harder, Fred 1044 Winslow Ave., W. St. Paul
Hart, Frank W. Laporte
Harris, Earl Litchfield
Haskins, Geo. Burtrum
Haseltine, Mrs. E. R. Excelsior
Harper, Stanley J. Box 1625, Mpls.
Harris, L. E. Atwater
Harris, Van V. 1723 E. 6th St., Duluth
Hawkins, Mrs. Alice M. 1523 Fremont N., Mpls.
Hathaway, C. E. Northfield
Hawkins, J. S. 1523 Fremont N., Mpls.
Hawkins, John Box 495, Mpls.
Hawkins, Mrs. J. C. Austin
Hawkes, A. S. Waseca
Hatcher, Frank Wayzata
Hatledal, Ole O. Benson
Hawkes, Chas. B. 20 E. 3rd St., St. Paul
Hawkins, G. C. 2913 Fremont S., Mpls.
Hawkes, H. B. Excelsior
Haupt, C. F. 106 Concord St., St. Paul
Hattenberger, Tony Shakopee
Hayden, Chas. Blackduck
Hatcher, Amos Delano
Hawkins, Mrs. G. C. 2913 S. Fremont, Mpls.
Hatcher, Lloyd F. Wayzata
Hauenstein, Mrs. Regina 4428 Aldrich S., Mpls.
Hayes, Chas. H. Clarissa
Hazelton, D. C. Cutler
Haven, G. A. Chatfield
Hayes, Dr. E. W. Browns Valley
Heinemann, R. E. Montevideo
Hegerle, M. H. St. Bonifacius
Heltemez, John Sauk Rapids
Helger, Wm. C. 1955 Portland Ave., St. Paul
Hegland, A. 2018 W. Superior St., Duluth
Helgeson, C. T. Albert Lea
Hellyar, A. B. 1718 Chicago Ave., Mpls.
Heckle, Jos. 976 Bellows St., W. St. Paul
Heller Bros. Albee, S. D.
Heinsohn, Aug. LeSueur
Heck, Geo. J. 418 Rice St., St. Paul
Heier, Herman R. 1, Bertha
Headman, P. W. Henning
Hellerman, Gerhard Melrose
Hellerman, Herman Melrose
Heinrum, Mrs. Hawkon Lake Park
Hector, Chas. J. 1209 E. 2nd St., Duluth
Heins, Geo. N. Box 295, Sleepy Eye
Headline, Francis R. 2, West Concord
Helland, B. J. Clearbrook
Heagy, Ralph 1687 W. Minnehaha St., St. Paul
Healy, Mrs. Reginald J. 2105 Irving S., Mpls.
Heikkila, Oscar Ely
Henze, Jake Lewiston
Henjum, Nels Frost
Henderson, H. G. Lime Springs, Ia.
Hendrickson, M. P. Montevideo
Henry, P. Albert Lea
Henry, Henley & Son 175 Concord St., St. Paul
Henke, Gust. Buffalo Lake
Henkel, Peter Watkins
Henderson, R. L. Brady, Mont.
Hennemann, Dr. H. F. Sauk Center
Henningsen, Walter C. 5208 Chicago Avs., Mpls.
Henjum, Ole Saum
Hener, Willie Leonard, N. D.
Hemphill, Henry Pillager
Hendrickson, Ernest Mahtomedi
Hendrickson, Henry Kratka
Henry, Mrs. M. J. 1895 Iglehart Ave., St. Paul
Hesselgrave, R. V. Winnebago
Hershaug, Ed. Kenyon
Hewitt, Cameron Fond du Lac
Herman, A. C. 1613 Van Buren St., St. Paul
Herscher, Laurence Renville
Hewitt, Adelaide R. 1, Hopkins
Heritage, Wm. Ely
Herman, Jos. R. 2, Box 81, W. St. Paul
Herds, John W. Lonsdale
Hetle, E. Northfield
Heuring, Mat. Rogers
Hilborn, E. C. Valley City, N. D.
Hicks, Wm. C. Cedar
Hidde, Fred Herman
Hillger, Rev. Aug. Rich Valley
Hill, W. W. 146 W. 48th St., Mpls.
Hill, F. C. Albert Lea
Higbie, W. S. Eden Prairie
Highby, L. P. H. Albert Lea
Hillman, Wm. O. 396 Dewey Ave., St. Paul
Hiller, Aric Excelsior
Hibbard, Mrs. C. J. 3806 Sheridan S., Mpls.
Hill, G. E. R. 1, White Bear
Hildebrand, E. W. 967 Galvin Ave., W. St. Paul
Hicks, Fred C. 1022 Court Merrill, Mitchell, S. D.
Hillig, John Morgan
Hidershide, Dr. Geo. N. Arcadia, Wis.
Hintermister, J. H. 202 Dispatch Bldg., St. Paul
Hinckley, C. N. R. 3, Osseo
Hines, Ed., Lbr. Co. Chicago, Ill.
Hitchcock, F. E. 401 Com. Bldg., St. Paul
Hinkle, B. J. Little Falls
Hinckley, C. S. Elbow Lake
Hinras, M. Sleepy Eye
Hislop, Walter 243 Sunfish Rd., W. St. Paul
Hirt, John H. 4430 34th Ave. S., Mpls.
Hjermstad, C. F. Red Wing
Hjermstad, H. L. Red Wing
Hobart, W. P. 4400 Dupont S., Mpls.
Hofmann, E. L. Janesville
Hoffman, Rev. C. Bruno, Sask.
Hoff, J. M. 324 Hennepin Ave., Mpls.
Hofenmeister, Alfons New Ulm
Hoffman, Herman Dent
Hoffman, G. Henderson
Hoffman, L. J. Buffalo
Hoffman, H. R. 526 5th Ave. S., Wausau, Wis.
Hoffman, Mrs. C. S. 2334 Langdon, St. Paul
Hoaglund, Hildur 5th St. S., Willmar
Hoffman, Geo. J. Long Lake
Hobbs, Arnold 610 N. Y. Life Bldg., Mpls.
Holmberg, J. E. Avoca
Holt, John E. Carver
Holmgren, P. O. Hoffman
Holten, John Fertile
Holmberg, J. A. 1241 Edgerton St., St. Paul
Holm, E. P. 20 W. 5th St., St. Paul
Holmes, Mrs. Jos. T. R. 2, Box 17, Northfield
Holt, John Wolverton
Hollingsworth, Ralph 1107 13th Ave. S.E., Mpls.
Holland, Ozra S. R. 1, Winona
Holl, Dr. P. M. 2011 Chicago Ave., Mpls.
Holtimier, John Excelsior
Homan, Frank R. 1, Sauk Rapids
Holasek, Winslow Hopkins
Holmberg, A. R. Renville
Homola, Frank J. R. 2, Hopkins
Holstad, Hans 920 St. Olaf Ave., Northfield
Holm, H. E. Opstead
How, H. Esmond, N. D.
Holst, John R. 1, S. St. Paul
Holbrook, Miss Eleanor B. 5250 Penn Ave. S., Mpls.
Horton, W. H. Alexandria
Hornly, H. C. Cloquet
Hostetter, A. B. Duluth
Hoverstad, A. T. Maynard
Howland, Clinton J. Northfield
Howland, Mrs. Eleanor R. 1, Sta. F, Care E. Landis, Mpls.
Hoss, Mrs. Nick New Ulm
Hoyt, B. T. Hamline & Hoyt Aves., St. Paul
Hove, John I. Northwood, Ia.
Houghtelin, J. M. Chatfield
Howard, Geo. F. 1281 Raymond Ave., St. Paul
Hoyt, Edward Scotch Grove, Ia.
Howe, Peter Kellogg
Houghton, Jas. G. 3129 Clinton Ave., Mpls.
Howlett, Mrs. D. D. R. 5, Oshkosh, Wis.
Horton, Mrs. F. W. R. 1, White Bear
Hosmer, Ralph S. Cornell Univ., Ithaca, N.Y.
Horton, G. L. Litchfield
Hostager, N. A. Zumbrota
Hoslicker, F. S. Tappen, N. D.
Hough, J. S. 500 Northern Crown Bk. Bld., Winnipeg, M.
Howe, T. J. Clark, S. D.
Hoppert, Walter O. R. 1, Bx. 198, W. St. Paul
Hromatka, Joseph Hopkins
Hoover, J. L. R. 2, Kensal, N. D.
Hoyard, W. E. Henderson
Horn, Chas. 244 Lewis St., Duluth
House, Susan M. 201 W. Faribault St., Duluth
Houston, Geo. S. 3833 Thomas Ave., Mpls.
Hoyt, L. H. Fridley
Hoyt, Arthur Fridley
Hoyt, R. A. Lake City
Huestis, Dr. O. M. 400 Central Ave., Mpls.
Huff, Theo. A. Fergus Falls
Huber, Frank Shakopee
Hull, F. H. Brookpark
Hubbell, C. H. 917 Marquette Ave., Mpls.
Hubacheck, Mrs. F. R. Long Lake
Huffman, Mrs. E. J. Nemadji
Huckfield, B. E. 4116 Queen Ave. S., Mpls.
Huber, Rev. A. T. Elbow Lake
Hughes, H. J. Care Farm, Stock & Home, Mpls.
Hughart, H. F. Hamel
Huff, N. L. 1219 7th St. S.E., Mpls.
Hulbert, A. M. Elk River
Huey, W. G. 717 10th Ave. N., Fargo, N. D.
Huff, B. J. Yola
Hultquist, Esther M. Care Gowan-Lenning-Brown, Duluth
Hubbard, W. A. Lake City
Huldal, H. T. R. 1, Wilton
Husser, Henry Minneiska
Hummel, Prof. J. A. 2143 Commonwealth, St. Paul
Hurtt, Wm. Hoople, N. D.
Hundt, G. Tintah
Humphrey, D. A. 3624 Blaisdell, Mpls.
Hushka, Joseph Felton
Hurd, Burton 652 S. Smith Ave., St. Paul
Huyck, E. J. 44th & Central Aves., Mpls.
Huttner, Miss R. 2, Glen Lake, Hopkins
Hybergh, S. Hamel, Minn.
Hynes, John F. R. 1, Moose Lake
Innes, J. C. Luverne
Ingebrigtsen, Iver J. Fertile
Ingmundson, C. P. 121 2nd Ave. S., Jamestown, N. D.
Ikier, Wm. Vernon Center
Ingram, Carrie E. Sandstone
Isaacson, O. A. Madison
Innis, Geo. S. 1671 Hewitt Ave., St. Paul
Ihfe, Fred 301 W. Brompton St., W. St. Paul
Isensee, A. R. 3, Annandale
Isidore, Mother M. Mankato
Imlach, H. E. Estevan, Sask.
Ingleston, R. F. 703 E. Nebr. Ave., St. Paul
Imdicke, Ben Brooten
Irish, Mrs. Addie Detroit
Irving, John N. S. Park, St. Paul
Ireland, John Shell Lake, Wis.
Ingalk, Boyd Newport
Ingales, Boyd Newport
Jackson, P. T. 1722 Summit Ave., St. Paul
Janzen, Abr. Mt. Lake
Jackson, Peter Cloquet
Jacobson, P. G. Madison
Jaquith, O. O. Box 114, Pillager
Jacobson, J. F. Madison
Jager, Rev. Francis. St. Bonifacius
Jacobson, Nels Wayzata
Jackson, Jas. Woodstock
Jacobs, Dr. J. C. Willmar
Jacobson, Fred Rushford
Jasmer, Paul A. Winona
James, Dr. A. C. Springfield, Ill.
Jahren, Rev. H. C. M. Grand Meadow
Jaycox, L. I. Woodstock
Jacobson, J. L. Madison
Jarshaw, Sam Madison
Jacobson, J. M. Hills
Jacobson, T. M. Hills
Jaeger, Jos. R. 3, St. Cloud
James, J. Willis 1863 Lincoln Ave., St. Paul
Jackman, C. F. R. 2, Box 7, Esterville, Ia.
Jackson, Geo. R. Manchester, N. H.
Jamison, Robt. Excelsior
Jansen, D. E. Rogers
Jackson, J. F. 216 Lbr. Exch., Mpls.
Jackson, Miss Emma A. 4005 Drexel Blvd., Chicago, Ill.
Jensen, A. P. Box 84, Askov
Jerabek, Mrs. Mary Excelsior
Jensen, Jens A. Rose Creek
Jensen, Adolph 3315 17th Ave. S., Mpls.
Jensen, J. P. Morgan
Jensen, C. M. Albert Lea
Jedlicka, Henry R. 3, Eagle Bend
Jensen, Anton McIntosh
Jenson, Jens H. Box 314, Hudson, Wis.
Jenswald, John Duluth
Jennison, Mrs. Jas. 4224 Fremont S., Mpls.
Jenson, J. A. New London
Jenson, N. A. Willmar
Jensen, J. L. Menomonie, Wis.
Jernberg, J. C. 1724 10th Ave. S., Mpls.
Jensen, L. Clearbrook
Jenson, W. F. Mankato
Jepson, Mrs. J. H. 1323 Fremont N., Mpls.
Johnson, J. P. Miami, Fla.
Johnson, Gust J. Clarissa
Johnson, P. G. 3300 Elliot, Mpls.
Johnson, Dr. A. E. Cloquet
Johnson, E. A. Maple Plain
Johnson, Fred Jarretts
Johnson, L. T. Spring Grove
Johnson, O. B. New Richland
Johnson, P. E. North Branch
Johnson, Arnt R. 2, Viroqua, Wis.
Johnson, Henry V. 614 E. Lawson St., St. Paul
Johnson, A. W. 4405 Pleasant, Mpls.
Johnston, Fred L. 1006 Laurel Ave., St. Paul
Johnson, Jos. T. 1196 Jessie St., St. Paul
Johnson, J. H. Doon, Ia.
Johnson, C. A. R. 1, Box 48, Ogilvie
Johnson, Clyde Bergville
Johnson, Carl G. Little Falls
Johnson, Isaac West Union, Ia.
Johnson, O. W. Hawley
Johnson, Lewis Box 238, Albert Lea
Johnson, A. N. 4512 Drew Ave., Mpls.
Johnson, F. W. Breckenridge
Johnson, L. F. 1014 Bemidji Ave., Bemidji
Johnson, G. G. 1510 E. 6th St., Duluth
Johnson, O. H. R. 5, Box 56, Willmar
Johnson, Chas. Eugene U. of M., Mpls.
Johnson, P. J. 3931 Van Buren St. N.E., Mpls.
Johnson, J. C. 3343 Fillmore St., Mpls.
Johnson, W. W. Detroit
Johnson, C. J. Box 37, Cushing
Johnston, Rodney Maple Plain
Johnson, L. H. Maynard
Johnston, Wm. Eden Prairie
Johnson, Selmer 807 W. College St., Rochester
Johnson, F. W. R. 2, Braham
Johnson, A. W. 1081. Hague Ave., St. Paul
Johnson, Miss Carolyn 760 Linwood Place, St. Paul
Johnson, Andrew R. 3, Box 3, Arnold
Johnson, Henry L. R. 7, Fergus Falls
Johnson, Alphonse E. R. 2, Stephen
Johnson, Mrs. Charley Amery, Wis.
Johnson, John J. Box 17, Naples, S. D.
Johnson, Peter Box 17, Naples, S. D.
Johnson, L. O. E. Butler Ave., St. Paul
Johnson, Roy R. 1, Box 46, Brandon
Johnson, Jos. Fridley
Johnson, S. L. R. 3, Hopkins
Johnson, Geo. Millarton, N. D.
Johnson, Geo. Grygla
Johnson, N. C. South Side Farm, White Bear Lake
Jones, A. C. Duluth
Jorgensen, I. B. Hutchinson
Jones, Thos. C. Russell
Jordin, Aug. New London
Jones, J. Frank Redwood Falls
Jordan, J. J. Shakopee
Jones, G. P. Bagley
Jorgenson, Bros. Clarkfield
Jones, J. S. Madison
Jones, S. J. 3736 Oakland Ave., Mpls.
Jordin, John A. R. 8, Litchfield
Jordan, Wm. Merriam Pk. Sta., St. Paul
Jungbauer, Frank 1000 Winslow Ave., St. Paul
Justin, Edw. J. Excelsior
Juen, Louis 1063 Gorman Ave., W. St. Paul
Katzner, Rev. Jno. B. Collegeville
Kalbakken, Theo. St. Joseph, Wis.
Kapler, Geo. R. Perham
Kasper, Hans Grand Marais
Kangas, Henry Floodwood
Kaiser, Max Merriam Park Floral Co., St. Paul
Kates, Mrs. Rose Litchfield
Kalmbach, W. A. 302 Wolvin Bldg., Duluth
Kaminsky, Jos. Box 445, Hopkins
Kansal, John 2016 Minnehaha Ave., Mpls.
Kallock, H. H. Oslo
Kallberg, Jens Red Top
Karpisek, Jos. 41 Harrison St., Bellaire, Ohio
Kallestad, C. A. Ruthton
Karsten, Miss Ida C. 432 Adams N.E., Mpls.
Keasling, F. J. Zimmerman
Keith, John A. Cass Lake
Kelley, Elmer Sta. F., R. 1, Mpls.
Kelly, W. J. Claremont, S. D.
Keene, P. L. Mankato
Kelley, Clark W. Devils Lake, N. D.
Kees, A. A. Sta. F, R. 4, Mpls.
Kelley, C. E. 240 E. Belvidere St., St. Paul
Keiper, Chas. 260 Haskell St., W. St. Paul
Keller, Henry Newport
Keist, M. J. 1178 Conway St., St. Paul
Kelley, Frank W. R. 1, Menomonie, Wis.
Ketchum, C. S. Middlefield, Ohio
Keyes, E. A. Excelsior
Kenyon, J. M. Lamberton
Kempe, Peter Red Wing
Kenney, Dr. D. J. 5108 Newton Ave. S., Mpls.
Keyes, Dr. C. R. 705 N. 57th Ave. W., West Duluth
Kenning, T. A. 1815 26th Ave. N., Mpls.
Kenety, W. H. Cloquet Forest & Exp. Sta., Cloquet
Kerker, Mrs. Thos. 730 Aurora Ave., St. Paul
Kendrick, J. W. 1804 Iglehart Ave., St. Paul
Kerns, John Olivia
Kendall, R. S. Loraine, Wis.
Kimball, Rev. J. R. 1, Duluth
Kinkade, W. S. Sioux Falls, S. D.
Kinney, S. G. Faribault
Kirk, Loren O. 716 4th Ave. S., Mpls.
Kirk, E. B. 445 Laurel Ave., St. Paul
Kittson, Norman 1017 Dayton Ave., St. Paul
Kingsley, A. W. Bricelyn
Kinsman, A. N. Austin
Killmer, R. E. Pine City
Kimball, E. L. 604 1st Natl. Bank Bldg., Duluth
Kidd, Mrs. F. E. 1800 2nd Ave. N., Mpls.
Kirkpatrick, K. A. Wayzata
Kirchner & Renich 17 S. 7th St., Mpls.
Kittleson, A. J. Madison
Kirk Sisters Clearwater
King, J. C. 1040 Drexel Bldg., Philadelphia, Pa.
Kinsman, C. D. Austin
Kirby, Mrs. C. A. Heron Lake
Kimball, Miss Grace E. Waltham
Kidder, E. D. Marshall
Kind, Wm. Melrose
Kiger, H. E. Wheaton
Kirkwood, W. P. 1376 Grantham St., St. Paul
Klaksirk, Iver S. Underwood
Klebs, J. C. Bertha
Klebs, F. W. Eagle Bend
Klabunde, Carl Spillville, Ia.
Klodt, Frank R. 2, Staples
Klunschmidt, Wm. F. Morgan
Klucas, J. A. Buffalo Lake
Klindt, Henry Litchfield
Klein, M. H. Caledonia
Klein, Albert R. 1, So. St. Paul
Knight, E. W., 1202 N. 6th St. Estherville, Ia.
Knowles, Mrs. M. A. Sawtelle, Cal.
Knoblauch, W. Excelsior
Knatvold, H. Albert Lea
Knowles, Miss Marjorie 752 Lincoln Ave., St. Paul
Knutson, Fred Albert Lea
Knudson, Jacob Taopi
Knapp, G. A. Deerwood
Knapp, A. W. Mound
Knutson, A. R. Pelican Rapids
Knudtson, Andrew Brandon
Kruggel, Miss Emma L. 2929 Fremont So., Mpls.
Kraut, Emil Lester Prarie
Krause, Chas. Merriam Park
Krekelberg, Henry J. Dent
Krogh, H. P. 1486 Hythe St., St. Paul
Kremer, Geo. F. Grand Rapids
Kroehler, T. J. Houston
Kresta, Matt. Eden, S. D.
Kraus, Geo. McGrath
Korth, Albert Rothsay
Kovar, Wansel Owatonna
Kolisch, Aug. St. Louis Park
Kotouc, Rev. A. St. Leo
Koenig, G. A. Howard Lake
Korth, Aug. Rothsay
Koehler, D. Hector
Kortsad, A. Newfolden
Kochendorfer, K. K. South Park
Kohler, Chas. Winona
Krueger, John R. 6, Stillwater
Krause, Mrs. Chas. R. 1, Merriam Park
Kropp, Chas. O. Wadena
Krueger, B. F. Niagara, N. D.
Kroll, John Lake Benton
Kreiziger, Frank 214 Cole St., Watertown, Wis.
Krincke, Henry 46 W. Gessemini, St. Paul
Kruger, Walter Paynesville
Kunkel, Jos. J. Kimball
Kullander, F. Q. Kensington
Kuhns, A. M. Main & Plum, Red Wing
Kuefler, Mrs. Anton Belgrade
Kuyper, Mrs. John R. 5, Mondovie, Wis.
Kueffner, Otto 63 No. Milton, St. Paul
Kyrklund, C. H. Winthrop
Koza, Jos. 917 Bellows St., W. St. Paul
Koester, John V. 207 Iron Exchange, Mpls.
Koelruck, Gustav Stewart
Kozial, Miss Justine M. R. 3, Little Falls
Koher, A. 133 W. Lucy, W. St. Paul
Koutek, Jos. Butler & Stryker, W. St. Paul
Kolbe, Ed Sleepy Eye
Koerner, Olga 1377 Grantham, St. Paul
Lamb, C. Sr. Baker
Lumberson, L. Warren
Lahn, Mrs. Geo. Rogers
Lammers, Henry P., Jr. 639 Lafond, St. Paul
Lagerquist, John F. Cushing
Lagerquist, F. W. 701 Elmwood No., Mpls.
Lamson, W. H. Hinckley
Lake, A. F. Shenandoah, Ia.
LaFrance, H. 225 Clifton, Mpls.
Lahiff, Arthur 1412 14th Ave. So., Mpls
Isadone, Rasmus Box 440, Cloquet
Lake, Homer Homer
Lambert, Edward V. Buffalo Lake
Lamphere, Mrs. Chas. Frazee
Laflin, J. C. Williams
Lade, Halstein Fosston
Lake, Shores Hubbard
LaCroix, Wm. Deer River
Langholz, J. A. Newport
Landeen, A. F. Eagle Bend
Larkin, T. H. 217 Ford Bldg., Great Falls, Mont.
Larson, Emil V. Eagle Bend
Laurin, John Renville
Lange, Marie R. Willmar
Larson, J. P. 4th St. E., Willmar
Landscape Architect,
Dept. Pub. Wks. Regina, Sask.
Larsen, Raymond M. 214 Providence Bldg., Duluth
Langlund, Nils Cedarbend
Larson, C. F. Morgan
Larson, L. U. Lowry
Larson, Peter Box 208, Albert Lea
Larson, L. R. 2, St. James
Lane, J. W. Anoka
Langseth, C. C. Worthington
Larson, John Box 25, R. 1, Lafayette
Langford, H. A. Blackduck
Larson, W. E. Madison, Wis.
Landahl, H. Little Falls
Landeene, W. E. Elbow Lake
Larson, Ole H. Hisega, S. D.
Lanes, John O. Dawson
Larson, L. B. St. Louis Park
Lange, L. M. Cass Lake
Lange, G. H. Lake City
Langmaid, Abbie B. Granite Falls
Larson, G. 1013 Winslow Ave., St. Paul
Lauritson, A. Warrendale Greenhouse, Como Park, St. P.
Law, K. B. 2237 Doswell, St. Paul
Lawson, F. E. Goodhue
Latsch, John A. Winona
Lawson, M. H. Ellendale
Lawson, F. L. Welch
Lawrence, Alfred Box 115, Eldridge, N. D.
Lawson, L. P. Isle
Lawton, Chas. 2162 Dayton Ave., St. Paul
Lawrence, Mrs. W. W. 2108 Woodland Ave., Duluth
Latourelle, J. R. 1, Centuria. Wis.
Lawrie, Jas. A. 401 Wolvin Bldg., Duluth
Leiner, Dan'l Morris
Lee, Geo. F. Hanska
Leath, Fred Cleveland
Leavitt, Miss Clara 2015 James So., Mpls.
Leary, D. J. Brown's Valley
Lee, E. G. 1787 Dayton Ave., St. Paul
Lee, Ole N. Hayfield
Lee, Iver A. Neilsville
Leake, Mrs. C. W. No. St. Paul
Lehnerts, Prof. E. H. "U. of M.," Mpls.
LeDue, A. C. 10 No. 12th Ave., Duluth
Leach, A. R. Faribault
Lemieux, Mrs. M. A. Nebr. & Adams St., St. Paul
Lee, Prof. Olav 1115 St. Olaf Ave., Northfield
Leitch, Wm. Columbia Heights, Mpls.
Leath, Mrs. Eleanor Okipee Farm, Linden Hills
Leasman, Geo. W. Hector
Lee, T. K. Benson
Lee, J. A. Benson
Ledvina, Joseph Pine City
Lee, Eddie St. Cloud, Minn., R. 5
Le Fevre, A. 290 Emerson Ave., W. St. Paul
Leonard, Dr. L. D. 515 Syndicate Blk., Mpls.
Lenz, Rudolph Adrian
Lerol, John A. Whalen
Lewis, A. F. LeRoy
Lewis, Chas. L., Jr. Shell Lake, Wis.
Lewis, Meyer Box 6, Mpls.
Leslie, A. W. 2124 Fremont So., Mpls.
Lenander, Edwin Buffalo Lake
Lewis, Bert Caledonia
Leyde, H. G. Newport
Leyde, G. F. Hewitt
Leonard, Dr. W. E., 408 Donaldson Bldg., Mpls.
Lerch, Bernard, Secy. Carpenters Farmers' Club, Togo
Linden, Harry Belgrade
Lippman, J. C. 1486 Hythe St., St. Paul
Lietze, F. W. Mound
Lieske, Robt. Pequot
Lien, Ole L. Willmar
Lindgren, A. W. 317 Kennilworth Ave., Duluth
Lisler, Mrs. A. M. Grand Rapids
Lippert, A. O. Bertha
Lindsay, J. M. Austin
Lightner, Mrs. W. H. 318 Summit Ave., St. Paul
Lindstrom, John A. J. Lindstrom
Linton, Robt. 1045 Everett Court, St. Anthony Park
Lindsey, Geo. F. 1413 Mer. Natl. Bk. Bldg., St. Paul
Linder, E. A. Warroad
Lieberg, C. F. Clarkfield
Limperich, Henry J. 503 6th Ave. No., St. Cloud
Lindahl, J. A. Harris
Lien, Andy Beaudette
Lichtscheidl, John 627 Univ. Ave., St. Paul
Lien, G. E. Maynard
Lindholm, J. A. E. Glen Lake, Hopkins
Linnell, Mr. J. E. Maple Plain
Lindhe, H. E. Deer River
Lindstam, S. F. St. Louis Park, R. No. 1.
Libby, Merton R. Hopkins, R. No. 2
Lien, Thos. LeRoy
Livingston, C. B. 267 Bryant No., Mpls.
Linderholm, A. Belgrade
Lindgren, Oscar Princeton, R. 4
Lippincott, Miss C. H. 3010 Hen. Ave., Mpls.
Lindholm, C. J. 710 42nd Ave. N., Mpls.
Light, C. W. 2339 St. John St., Regina, Sask.
Lilleskov, Leonard Byron
Lievere, B. A. 2910 Johnson St. NE., Mpls.
Lowe, M. F. Buffalo
Loegering, Aug. Long Prairie
Lovold, E. J. 4125 31st Ave. S., Mpls.
Loop, Leeman Dent
Loftman, Oscar Fertile
Lomis, C. P. St. Peter
Logstrom, Reinhold Atwater
Loegering, A. J. St. Peter
Loye, C. C. 3537 19th Ave. S., Mpls.
Lomen, O. O. Decorah, Ia., R. No. 1
Loss, Bj. Lake City
Loudenback, F. M. Bagley
Lowell, O. S. Buffalo
Lott, K. F. 101 E. 8th St., St. Paul
Lorenz, Otto 1187 Dale, St. Paul
Lorentz, R. H. Howard Lake
Long, Miss Avie 627 Penn Ave., Mpls.
Lonsdale, Miss Persis G. Sauk Rapids
Lobsinger, Anton 738 Cromwell Ave., St. Paul
Lorenzen, Gust. Bagley, R. 2
Losleben, Rev. A. J. Norwood
Long, Jesse L. 2107 5th Ave. N., Mpls.
Lock, Frank Osseo, R. 1
Lofgren, Erick Red Top
Lofgren, A. H. Tower
Logan, Frank 701 Kenwood Pkway, Mpls.
Lov, Chas. R. 3, Hopkins
Lovering, Thos. Campbell
Loucks, Chas. H. Mankato
Luchan, H. J. Fertile
Ludlow, H. J. Worthington
Lundholm, Dr. E. M. 677 Univ. Ave., St. Paul
Lundborg, Theo. A. Nisswa
Lund, Geo. Excelsior
Luitjens, A. Clara City
Lucas, Dr. H. E. Champlin
Lubich, Franz River Falls, Wis.
Luitjens, D. G. Hopkins, R. No. 1, care of Chas. Asplund
Lucas, Geo. A. 117 S. 6th St., Mpls.
Lufi, O. C. La Crescent
Lundberg, S. L. Red Wing, No. 1
Lund, Peter Stillwater, 512 Park Place
Luhman, Henry Howard Lake
Ludwig, Mrs. Frank 1894 Iglehart Ave., St. Paul
Luedloff, Herman Cologne
Luther, Otto Hills
Lunden, H. O. Slayton
Lund, C. F. Maple Plain
Luhmann, J. C. 158 W. Wabasha St., Winona
Lusk, W. F. 1453 Hythe St., St. Paul
Lyness, Chas. E. New Richmond
Lysen, Aug. O. Lowry
Magnuson, J. E. 107 1st St. SE., St. Cloud
Madison, Geo. C. Newport
Mander, Frank C. 1535 Hastings Ave., St. Paul
Manuel, Dr. K. Janie Masonic Temple, Mpls.
Mace, Florence Duluth
Mace, Clarissa E. Duluth
Maass, Win. H. Waconia
Mahlman, H. W. Plato
MacLennan, R. Grand Rapids
Manchester, Edwin V. Hopkins
Mansfield, Miss C. Mankato
Mace, R. E. 1631 E. 3rd St., Duluth
Maney, Peter, Jr. Grygla
Manz, F. W. Paynesville
Magnuson, Swen Templeton, Cal.
Malmsten, F. W. 2117 Western Ave., Mpls.
Malmberg, E. W. Lafayette
Mahler, Adolph Waseca
Malmquist, G. Wayzata
Malitor, Martin St. Cloud
Malberg, P. B. Thief River Falls
Mahler, C. Fairmont, N. D.
Magnuson, I. E. Willmar
Maddy, Mrs. Emma Annandale
Macnab, J. C. Lombard St., Winnipeg, Can.
Mann, R. T. Excelsior, R. 1
Malmberg, Chas. A. Lindstrom
Manley, L. B. Torrey Bldg., Duluth
Maher, Howard Devils Lake, N. D.
Maine, M. F. 522 Met. Life Bldg., Mpls.
Magie, Mrs. Frank 1710 London Rd., Duluth
MacDonough, Mary Emerson, N. D.
Mains, T. U. 3805 10th Ave. S., Mpls.
Mailand, C. H. Newport
Manthun, Reinhold Dent
Manuel, R. W. 147 Orlin Ave. SE., Mpls.
Majerns, Math. Brooten
Magnuson, O. J. Isanti
Mareck, Titus 420 Ridgewood Ave., Mpls.
Marshall, Mrs. L. Emogene 3032 Irving So., Mpls.
Martin, F. J. Excelsior
Martens, John 2938 Bloomington Ave. S., Mpls.
Martin, John H. 22 N. 4th St., Mpls.
Marsh, V. P. Big Falls
Mariem, P. B. Daytons Bluff, Sta. F, R. 4, St. Paul
Marthaler, Henry South St. Paul
Martenson, Alfred Maynard, R. 2
Maruska, John A. New Prague, R. 4, Box 78
Martin, Grant Redwood Falls
Mathews, Mrs. Jas. H. Larimore, N. D.
Mathisen, Geo. W. Windom
Massee, A. W. Albert Lea
Mayo, E. D. 2808 S. Fremont, Mpls.
Maust, S. H. Canton
Mayman, E. W. Sauk Rapids
Matzke, Sil. So. St. Paul
Mayland, A. W. Albert Lea
Mathison, Thoger St. Paul Park
Mattison, Dr. C. W. Swea City, Ia., Box 201
Mathes, E. H. Excelsior
Mayman, Hattie A. Sauk Rapids
Mattson, F. Terrace, B. C.
Mayne, Prof. D. D. Univ. Farm, St. Paul
Mason, Joe Long Lake
Mather, O. L. 201 S. 21st Ave. E., Duluth
May, Bernard Stewart
Matzke, H. C. 1925 Jefferson St., Duluth
May, Prof. J. H. River Falls, Wis.
Masson, E. Deerwood
Mathews, Oscar R. Newell, S. D.
Mathews, Miss Harriet 807 W. College St., Rochester
Mattocks, Brewer Jr. 911 Woodland Ave., Duluth
Mawin, Geo. G. Warroad
Mellinger, T. S. Pine Island
Merrill, Geo. E. 4604 Washburn So., Mpls.
Mense, F. G. 3941 Aldrich S. Mpls.
Meeker, Mary K. 2548 Clinton Ave., Mpls.
Meeds, A. D. 2424 Harriet Ave., Mpls.
Meadow Lawn Farm St. Peter, R. No. 2
Meginess, Fred J. Winona
Merritt, Mrs. John E. Aitkin
Meisinger, Engelb. 1062 Stryker Ave., W. St. Paul
Meelker, Ben Raymond
Mendenhall, W. J. 1212 27th Ave. NE., Mpls.
Mead, P. H. White Bear Lake
Melson, John Deerwood
Merritt, C. H. 519 Woodland Ave., Duluth
Merritt, Neal R. Hinckley
Meyer, Henry Blue Earth
Meyer, J. H. Austin
Meyer, C. H. 774 West Ave., Red Wing
Meyer, Frank Excelsior, R. No. 1
Mesenbring, Otto Clayton, Wis., care Louis Schmidt
Meyenburg, H. C. Montvideo
Meyer, E. St. Louis Park, R. No. 1
Meyers, Rev. J. St. James
Miller, W. L. 152 E. 5th St., St. Paul
Metcalf, Dr. F. W. Winton
Meyers, J. E. 515 N. 27th St., Mpls.
Mills, D. L. Lake City
Miks, Rev. A. St. Michael
Mpls. Public Library Mpls.
Miller E. B. Mpls., R. 1, Sta. F.
Milne, H. A. Elmerado, N. D., R. No. 2
Mighton, S. R. Winnipeg, Man., Box 1393
Miller, H. J. Cologne
Miner, H. P. 3022 Dupont So., Mpls.
Mix, H. P. Lidgewood, N. D.
Miller, Warren Verdi
Mitchell, D.M. Owatonna
Mitchell, W. B. 508 1st Ave. S., St. Cloud
Minder, Emma Ortonville
Michelson, Nels Austin
Miller, Elbert W. R. 1, Anoka
Mills, L. D. Garden City
Miller, Hans F. P. 501 N. Greeley, Stillwater
Middleton, E. C. Baudette
Miller, T. E. Ely
Mpls. Real Estate Bd. 633 Andrus Bldg., Mpls.
Miller W. L. 152 E. 5th St., St. Paul
Miller, O. A. Rainbow Hotel, Great Falls, Mont.
Miller, S. J. Briarcombe Farm, Winona
Mitchell, Mrs. Harry Halma
Minn. Northern Nurs. Co. 1511 Raymond Ave., St. Paul
Miller, Joseph Hopkins
Miller, Chas. 4539 Morgan No., Mpls.
Miller, Wm. J. Warroad, Box 442
Miller, Hjalmar S. Lindstrom
Miller, E. Amery, Wis.
Mielke, Geo. Sidney, Mont.
Miller, Henry C. Sauk Center
Mpls. Architectural Club 920 Nic. Ave., Mpls.
Miller, Sarah A. Sauk Rapids
Moehring, Otto Montevideo
Moore, W. M. Forest Service, Santa Barbara, Cal.
Moeser, Ed St. Louis Park
Moore, Mrs. C. F. Worthington
Moberg, Aron Lowry
Moline, E. J. 2622 Henn. Ave., Mpls.
Monson, N. L. Buffalo Lake
Mondeng, Chas. 160 Newton Ave. N. Mpls.
Moeser, Ernest St. Louis Park
Montgomery, Katherine A. Bradley St. Sta., St. Paul, R. 4, Bx. 29
Montgomery, W. C. Excelsior, R. No. 3
Moore, John E. Louisville
Moede, H. F. Buffalo Lake
Moody, Geo. W. Amery, Wis.
Moeser, Miss Flora St. Louis Park
Molander, A. L. Bemidji
Moline, Geo. Woodstock
Molenar, John Raymond, R. 2
Monk, B. B. Minot, N. D.
Moen, A. A. Bemidji, R. 2
Mojha, Joseph R. No. 1, Lonsdale
Moore, E. V. Eagle Bend
Moen, Albert O. Smithport
Moberg, Oscar Lowry
Moe, P. C. Mentor
Morrison, Rev. J. D. 2131 E. Supr. St., Duluth
Moran, C. B. Newport
Morey, Geo. W. 3606 Van Buren St. NE., Mpls.
Moris, Mrs. F. 180 Rondo St., St. Paul
Morris, John R. Beaudette
Morgan, Benj. H. 712 So. 5th St., Leavensworth, Kan.
Morrill, E. W. Hopkins, R. 1
Morton, Mrs. E. H. St. Louis Park
Mortz, Aug. Stewart
Morlan, Ogden C. 4628 Colfax S., Mpls.
Mortenson, J. P. New Richland
Moritz, Isaac Hector
Morrison, Mrs. Eugenia Excelsior
Morley, Jas. Wahpeton, N. D.
Morse, John H. 2511 Washburn Ave. S., Mpls.
Morgan, R. M. Howard Lake
Moen, Albert O. Terrace, R. 1, Box 42
Molsted, C. E. Valley City, N. D.
Moffitt, Mrs. F. L. 508 Univ. Ave. SE., Mpls.
Moses, Mrs. W. S. Wahkon
Motter, J. P. Lamberton
Mousel, Henry Canby
Moss, W. F. Worthington
Mosbjerg, Chr. 216 7th St. N., Mpls.
Moulton, H. R. Windom
Mott, F. R. Hibbing
Moses, J. B. Jackson
Munch, Mrs. E. W. Crookston
Mullen, A. J. Custom House, Mpls.
Mudd, Mrs. Neva Sandstone
Munson, Nels Cokato
Mulqueeneg, Mrs. Jas. Buffalo
Munn, Mrs. M. D. Forest Lake
Mundt, Fred Sunfish Rd., R. 2, W. St. Paul
Mullen, John T. Litchfield
Munsterteiger, Arthur Buffalo
Mulroy, M. F. Brown's Valley
Murray, J. W. Excelsior
Murray, D. L. Blooming Prairie
Murray, Chas. M. Princeton
Musser, R. D. Little Falls
Musser, C. R. 200 Mer. State Bk. Bldg., Muscatine, Ia.
Murphy, Frederick P. Central Lake
Murdock, H. E. 1961 Queen Ave. S, St. Paul
Murray, Mrs. H. J. 812 Osceola Ave., St. Paul
Mutny, John S. Gregory, S. D.
Musil, F. J. Hector
Musil, Rudolph Hector
Murdock, E. C. 405 Scheffman Bldg., St. Paul
Myrah, E. G. Spring Grove
McBroom, J. K. Excelsior
McBride, A. F. 1764 Marshall Ave., St. Paul
McAllister, Geo. E. 2637 Emerson N., Mpls.
McCullough, Francis Mound
McCabe, Mrs. M. Sta. F., Mpls.
McConachie, N. Perham
McCallum, John Clinton, R. No. 1
McCoy, Dr. Mary 15 W. Supr. St., Duluth
McCabe, W. J. 2125 Abbotsford Ave., Duluth
McCullach, Jas. T. Washburn, N. D.
McClintock, R. G. Willmar
McCaleb, Seth Eyota
McCathy, T. Caledonia
McCabe, M. M. 2328 Roslyn Ave., Duluth
McCall, Geo. W. Fort Williams, Ont.
McCarthy, F. F. 2725 E. 6th St., Duluth
McCormick, Miss Care Geo. H. Rogers,
2302 Blaisdell Ave., Mpls.
McElroy White Bear, Bx 386
McDuffee, Herbert S. 2540 3d Ave. S., Mpls.
McFadden, Dr. C. A. 6719 Tioga St., Duluth
McGuire, A. J. Univ. Farm, St. Paul
McGuire, S. H. Annandale
McGonagle, Mrs. W. A. Hunter's Park, Duluth
McGolerick, Bishop, Jas. Duluth
McKusick, Miss Florence M. Stillwater
McKee, Maude L. Hotel Waverly, Mpls.
McMillan, F. G. No. 2, 5th St., SE., Mpls.
McLeod, Neil A. 523 3d Ave. SE., Mpls.
McMahon, J. A. Arago
McLaughlin, Peter Hunter, N. D.
McLarty, Jas. Neche, N. D., R. 2
McLean, Robt. C. 735 Palace Bldg., Mpls.
McNair, C. I. Cloquet
McNeil, Mrs. Alex Dayton
McQuoid, Jas. Pipestone
McQuire, Mrs. D. F. Hopkins
McPherson, A. K. Walker
McPhail, A. J. Hibbing
Naslund, Adolph Tower, Bx 1448
Neils, Julius Cass Lake
Neinabor, Chas. Round Lake
Neal, J. A. P. 604 1st Nat. Bk. Bldg., Duluth
Neilson, A. Mankato
Nelson, C. N. Storden
Nelson, Oscar W. Aitken, R. 2
Nelson, Chas. F. 1449 Hythe St., St. Anthony Park
Nelson, C. G. Lindstrom
Nelson, F. A. Atwater
Nelson, Hans Fergus Falls
Nelson, Jacob Beltrami
Nelson, Hans Twin Valley
Nelson, C. A. A. Park Rapids, Bx. 206
Nelson, Peter E. Montevideo
Nelson, Anton Grasston
Nelson, Mrs. Sim. Westbrook
Nelson, Mrs. V. D. 2829 9th St. S., Mpls.
Nelson, C. J. Willmar
Nelson, Hugo C. Hibbing
Nelson, Mrs. Wm. Box 143, Spooner
Nelson, P. J. Clarissa
Nelson, Chas. J. R. 1, Eagle Bend
Nelson, S. R. Owatonna
Nelson, A. N. R. 2, Box 116, Hopkins
Nelson, E. 880 S. Robert St., W. St. Paul
Nelson, Hon. E. M. Fairmount, N. D.
Nelson, E. V. Box 111, Alta Dens, Cal.
Nelson, M. O. 2530 Harriet Ave., Mpls.
Nelson, Andrew Northland
Nelson, Martin R. 1, Hopkins
Nellermoe, F. G. Buffalo Lake
Ness, H. H. 1900 Wash. N., Mpls.
Newland, H. Custom House, Mpls.
Newberg, A. Excelsior
Newell, Wilfred Mayo Farm, Rochester
Newmann, A. H. Sta. F., R. 3, Mpls.
N.Y. State Col. of For. Syracuse, N. Y.
Nesbitt, Mrs. Victoria K. 210 13th Ave. E., Duluth
Neske, Mrs. Albert Waseca
Neudecker, A. S. Clements
Nesdahl, Ole Box 15, Shevlin
Nettleton, C. H. Stockton
Newhall, Mrs. H. F. 2702 Humboldt S., Mpls.
Ness, Gabriel Hannaford, N. D.
N.Y. State Ranger School Wanakena, N. Y.
Nesbitt, Mrs. W. L. 4715 Fremont S., Mpls.
Nelson, Henry Oslo
Nelson, Alfred M. Hector
Nelson, A. M. 5114 Elliot Ave. S., Mpls.
Nelson, A. E. R. 1, Box 81, Felton
Nelson, Geo. H. Hope, Minn., via Owatonna
Nelson, Walter R. 2, Oslo
Nelson, L. M. 2637 17th Ave. S., Mpls.
Nelson, E. M. Fairmount, N. D.
Nelson, Fred S. Maple Plain
Nelson, S. C. Alexandria
Nelsen, Leslie 953 Goff Ave., W. St. Paul
Nelson, Carl A. Cokato
Nelson, John Baudette
Nieman, Chas. Hamburg, Wis.
Niemeyer, C., 487 W. Calif. St., Pasadena, Calif.
Nichols, S. S. 707 Cham. of Com., Mpls.
Nichols, Mrs. C. H. 1920 Palace St., St. Paul
Nielsen, N. Mankato
Nickel, Geo. Reading
Nicol, Henry C. Mail Carrier 30, St. Paul
Nicholson, Mrs. Sam'l J. 5303 Nic. Ave., Mpls.
Noble, A. S. Dent
Norderhus, Paul S. Murdock
Nolte, Henry Duluth
Nordby, Ed. J. Renville
Norval, Wm. Elk River
Nordbye, O. W. Granite Falls
Northern Pine Mfgrs. Assn., Lumber Ex. Minneapolis
Norin, Dr. Frans L. Roseau
Nousse, John 1346 Western No., W. St. Paul
Nordine, John Lake City.
Noble, Fred 287 E. Lucy St., St. Paul
Nowlen, B. E. 2370 Chilcombe Ave., St. Paul
Nordquist, E. D. Evansville
Novak, Frank Lonsdale
Nohava, Mathias Lonsdale
Norton, John Lonsdale
Norberg, Mrs. C. Eastwood
Noehl, Nicholas R. 3, Dassel
Norton, A. W. Cumberland, Wis.
N.W. Nat. Bk.
Information & Pub. Dept., Minneapolis
Nutter, F. H. 710 Sykes Blk., Mpls.
Nydahl, J. L. 715 21st Ave. So., Mpls.
Nygaard, Thos. 953 40th Ave S.E., Mpls.
Nyman, Col. M. R. 1401 1st Ave. So., Mpls.
Nystrom, O. Eastwood
Nysoeu, C. O. Pelican Rapids
O'Brien Pat Renville
O'Connor, Jas., Jr. Granite Falls
Oberleiter, John Pequot
Oberleiter, Mrs. Maria Pequot
Oberg, Alma Mayer
Olson, S. J. Grand Meadow
Olson, Oscar A. Truman
Olson, Wm. C. R. 2, Maynard
Olson, Ova Boyd
Olson, John A. Boyd
Olson, Chas. R. 2, Lindstrom
Olson, Miss Julia Aitkin
Olson, Geo. W. Carver
Olmstead, Mrs. E. W., 2727 Lake of Isles Blvd., Mpls.
Olsen, Chesta Central
Olsen, Peter Eastwood
Olson, Paul 2538 Taylor St. N.E., Mpls.
Olin, Miss Signe J., 328 No. 60th Ave. W. Duluth
Olson, J. J. Central Lakes
Odell, Mrs. R. R. 2836 Irwing So., Mpls.
Oehring, C. C. Elkader, Ia.
Oesch, Fred Winona
O'Hara, Dr. P. Waverly
Ohr, E. J. Sta. F, R. 3, Mpls.
Ogren, G. C. Cambridge
Oehler, Mrs. Ira C., 1766 St. Claire St. St. Paul
Ogaard, Arthur J. Hettinger, N. D.
Ogroskie, Paul Deer River
Olson, Lewis R. 3, Kalispell, Mont.
Oldenburg, Henry C. Carlton
Olsen, H. P. R. 1, St. Louis Park
Olson, Aug. R. Kennedy
Olson, J. B. Willmar
Oleson, Michael Montevideo
Olson, Mrs. D. W. White Bear
Olson, Peter M. R. 4, Zumbrota
Olmstead, Rett E. Excelsior
Olson, O. E. R. 2, Bx. 92, Braham
Olney, Will Knox, N. D.
Olson, O. J. 20 W. 5th St., St. Paul
Olson, Edwin O. R. 2, Dent
Olson, O. G. Porter
Olson, C. H. Beltrami
Olds, L. Pequot
Ollinger, J. F. Hopkins
Oldenberg, C. J. R. 1, Belle Plain
Olson, Wm. G. Dunnel
Olson, Oluf Burtrum
Olson, Hjalmer C. Bx. 26, Ironwood, Mich.
Olson, Mrs. Otto W. Eagle Bend
Olson, Oscar Orr
Old, Mrs. W. A., 5218 Washburn Ave. S. Minneapolis
Olson, A. H. 912 W. Robert St., St. Paul
Olson, Miss Margaret Wyoming
Olson, Martin Lake City
Olson, C. E. Underwood
Oleson, Cris Cushing, Wis.
Old, Mrs. M. E., 1399 W. Minnehaha St. St. Paul
Oredalen, Ole Kenyon
O'Neill, O. H. 608 Globe Bldg., St. Paul
Opsata, C. Bemidji
Omland, Erik McIntosh
Orr, Grier M. 1040 Laurel Ave., St. Paul
O'Neil, Wm. Cass Lake
Orwell, C. S. Clarkfield
O'Neill, Jas. M. Woodstock
Oram, Martin 3240 16th Ave. S., Mpls.
Orr, Mrs. G. M. 1040 Laurel Ave., St. Paul
Ordway, Mrs. L. P. 523 Portland Ave., St. Paul
O'Meara, Steve LeSueur Center
Omann, M. E. Stewart
Octhoudt, Geo. Eden Prairie
Oppegaard, E. O. Sacred Heart
Oregon Agri. Col. Library Corvallis, Ore.
Orde, G. S. Riverdale Ave., Calgary, Can.
Osborn, John Dassel
Ostern, L. N. Montevideo
Osborne, E. W. 323 B. P. Bldg., St. Paul
Ottis, Frank J. 867 Forest, St. Paul
Osborn, L. M. 3900 Sheridan S., Mpls.
Orsborn, H. E. 2900 3rd Ave. S., Mpls.
Osgood, H. E. St. Paul
Otte, E. W. 821 S. Wabasha St. W. St. Paul
Ostergren, E. A. N. St. Paul
Ostrom, Mrs. C. J. Winthrop
Otosa, A. L. R. 3, St. James
Osborn, Frank H. R. 4, Albert Lea
Otto, W. H. 958 S. Robert St., W. St. Paul
Oswald, Wm. K. 122 10th St., Cloquet
Ott, Adolph R. 2, Granite Falls
Overgaard, P. H. Albert Lea
Ouellette, C. A. 904 Arkwright St., St. Paul
Owens, John 4452 Xerxes Ave. S., Mpls.
Overn, A. V. Albert Lea
Owens, John Cook
Pabody, Mrs. E. F. 69 11th St. S., Mpls.
Palzer, Casper Mazeppa
Paine, F. W. 706 Sellwood Bldg., Duluth
Palmer, Ezra Paynesville
Palmer, S. E. Browerville
Palke, Stephan Bryant, Wis.
Parman, E. A. Hudson, Wis.
Partridge, H. C. Owatonna
Parker, C. W. Valley River, Man.
Parsons, John B. Fergus Falls
Parks, W. S. Thorp, Wis.
Parsons, Frank Maple Plain
Parker, Percy W. Dispatch Bldg., St. Paul
Partridge, Van B. Owatonna
Parks, Mrs. Walter Airlie
Parker, Vern Pine Island
Parks, Robt. Shell Lake, Wis.
Parker, F. M. Garden City
Parker, Ira J. Waverly Hotel, Mpls.
Patten, J. W. Long Lake
Patience, J. C. Little Falls
Passmore, Miss C. W. R. 2, Box 14, Hopkins
Paup, F. O. Sherburn
Paterson, J. F. South Shore, White Bear
Patterson, M. T. Ellendale
Patterson, Mrs. J. O. 2814 James Ave. N., Mpls.
Passehl, Fred R. 1, Montrose
Peerless Rubber Mfg. Co. 555 Pierce Bldg., St. Louis, Mo.
Peck, Mrs. E. W. Orchard Gardens, Savage
Pentney, E. H. Manitou
Peabody, Lloyd 645 Delavan Ave., St. Paul
Peck, C. W. Redwood Falls
Perl, H. J. 1029 Iglehart St., St. Paul
Pearce, G. A. 3418 Allendale Ave., Duluth
Peabody, F. C. Merrifield
Peck, Harold J. Deer River
Perry, Mrs. Gentz Amery, Wis.
Perkins, T. L. R. 3, Red Wing
Pervogal, H. J. 30 S. Clintworth St., St. Paul
Pegenholf, Edward Maple Plain
Pegenholf, John Maple Plain
Peil, L. L. 121 N. P. Bldg., St. Paul
Perkins, Paul H. 250 20th Ave. N., Mpls.
Peck, Chas. Washburn, Wis.
Peiffer, N. J. Al. Eden Valley
Penney, John Cushing, Wis.
Penning, Martin New Ulm
Pederson, P. A. Beardsley
Pengilly, Jas. R. 1, Osseo
Perry, P. H. Excelsior
Perkins, Thos. Race Track, Mont.
Peek, C. M. Eureka
Pedersen, A. W. Comfrey
Pellet, F. A. Akeley
Peachy, Mrs. Chas. Austin
Pearson, Hjalmer R. 1, Welch
Perkins, Alfred 1780 Wakefield Ave., St. Paul
Penney, A. W. Stacyville, Ia.
Peavey, L. J. R. 1, Osseo
Pennington, E. 317 2nd Ave. S., Mpls.
Peake, G. W. Univ. Farm, St. Paul
Perkins, Mrs. W. F. 2426 Crystal Lake Ave., Mpls.
Peck, C. C. Munsing, Mich.
Pevy, E. P. Clearbrook
Pederson, F. W. 1705 Lincoln Ave., St. Paul
Peterson, Alvin Astoria, S. D.
Peterson, Jos. Lake Crystal
Peterson, P. H. Atwater
Peterson, C. O. Willmar
Peterson, Carl F. Storden
Peterson, F. J. Waconia
Peterson, O. M. Albert Lea
Peterson, R. Waldo Canby
Pew, Fremont C. R. 5, Mankato
Peterson, Hans 3901 Van Buren St. N.E., Mpls.
Peterson, Fred Albert Lea
Peterson, L. E. R. 1, Stanchfield
Peter, Justus Cor. Smith Ave. & Annapolis St., St. Paul
Peterson, Jas. Blooming Prairie
Peterson, Aug. 916 W. Maple St., Stillwater
Peterson, John P. Aldrich
Peterson, Chas. J. R. 2. Burtrum
Peterson, Linder Box 103, Bessemer, Mich.
Peterson, Mrs. C. A. 312 Everett Ave., Everett, Wash.
Peterson, Axel Excelsior
Peterson, F. W. 812 6th Ave. S. E., Mpls.
Peterson, Peter Ruthton
Peterriens, J. P. Echo
Peterson, Oscar Buffalo
Petry, Arthur C. 1102 Pacific St., St. Paul
Peterson, Mrs. Martin R. 2, Kintyre, N. D.
Peterson, J. 887 Gorman Ave., W. St. Paul
Peterson, A. E. 3844 10th Ave. S., Mpls.
Peterson, J. H. R. 1, Holdingford
Pettengell, Ben Saum
Peterson, Chas. J. Maynard
Peterson, J. H. Fort Ripley
Peterson, Hjalmar Box 561, Buffalo
Peterson, Spurgeon Hayfield
Peterson, Mrs. Victoria Eastwood
Peterson, H. C. Sleepy Eye
Peterson, Thos. 322 E. 3rd St., Duluth
Pfister, J. M. Marietta
Pfaender, Wm., J. New Ulm
Pfeiffer, C. A. R. 1, Winona
Pfeiffer, Fred Morton
Pfaender, Walter C. New Ulm
Pfeiffer, Mrs. C. E. Winona
Phillips, H. Fort Williams, West Ont.
Pineo, Dr. W. B. 507 Pillsbury Bldg., Mpls.
Pimley, A. E. Park Rapids
Pinkerton, S. W. 1430 Capitol Ave. St. Paul
Pischner, August R. 8, Mankato
Pickatta, Martin Stewart
Pierce, E. B. 138 Seymour Ave. S.E., Mpls.
Piringer, Frank 176 W. Bernard St., W. St. Paul
Picha, John L. New Prague
Pickle, Julia L. St. Croix Falls, Wis.
Pierce, Mrs. Baxter Ashland, Mont.
Pierce, P. P. 816 Delaware St., Mpls.
Peterson, Peter Deer River
Peters, H. P. Glenwood
Platten, Will J. 218 Oakland Ave., Green Bay, Wis.
Pladsen, Emil Milaca
Plank, Mrs. Josephine Hopkins
Plan, Chas. Enver Grove
Plotner, Oscar Saum
Platten, H. J. 419 Dousman St., Green Bay, Wis.
Plainview Public Library Plainview
Pond, E. R. R. 3, Mpls.
Poppler, John Frazee
Pond, D. S. Sta. F, R. 3, Mpls.
Porter, J. N. 2947 Girard N., Mpls.
Popelka, J. J. Ogilvie
Porter, Amos Lake Benton
Potts, Chas. W. Deerwood
Poole, W. A. Forest River, N. D.
Poore, Hamlin V. Bird Island
Pommer, Mrs. Geo. 4311 Garfield Ave. S., Mpls.
Poirier, L. S. 240 Lewis St., Duluth
Pollack, Mrs. Robt. 5321 Avondale St., Duluth
Pomije, Rev. H. D. Olivia
Potter, A. H. 2847 Irving Ave. S., Mpls.
Poussin, G. W. Onigum
Powers, Frank W. 2816 Garfield Ave., Mpls.
Powell, F. W. Willmar
Posz, L. A. Winona
Potter, N. C. Hector
Powell, J. L. Pillager
Poseley, H. E. Cove
Powers, Prof. Wm. H. Agri. College, Brookings, S.D.
Potter, B. F. S. 4400 Nokomis Ave., Mpls.
Poucher, Thos. S. N. St. Paul
Potter, W. L. Raymond
Posivis, John Sherburne
Prentice, Chas. D. R. 4, Highwood, St. Paul
Prosser, L. W. LeRoy
Prentice, S. L. Winona
Pratt, Dr. C. C. Imanuel Hospital, Mankato
Price, Mrs. W. L. Excelsior
Preston, C. A. Hastings
Pruett, Elmer W. Ely
Premo, Alex 106 E. Annapolis, W. St. Paul
Primus, John Melrose
Pritchard, Robt. M. Box 186, Hibbing
Prohl, John 3409 Traverse, Duluth
Prinzing, D. S. Rushford
Prime, F. G. R. 1, Wayzata
Prest, Miss Marion 1713 Summit Ave., St. Paul
Prodoehl, H. R. Olivia
Probstfield, Mrs. Edmund Moorhead
Prova, Mrs. Harry Kelliher
Probett, Miss Ida 1917 Stevens Ave., Mpls.
Prescott, Mrs. E. 337 E. Jessamine St., St. Paul
Preisler, O. S. S. St. Paul
Ptacek, C. J. Long Prairie
Putnam, S. T. Battle Lake
Public Library St. Paul
Public Library Winnipeg, Man.
Purdy, C. E. Lake St. W. & Excelsior Ave., Mpls.
Purdham, C. W. R. 2, Osseo
Puffer, H. M. 26th St. & 32nd Ave. S., Mpls.
Putnam, R. W. Care Bank Pierce-Simmons, Red Wing
Punderson, J. M. Northfield
Pumper, Thos. A. Lonsdale
Pudil, Jas. Hopkins
Pugh, Mrs. Dana V. 109 Howell St., Duluth
Putman, W. L. Pelican Rapids
Quale, G. E. Willmar
Quam, O. T. Nerstrand
Quinn, Mrs. J. J. 4042 Wentworth Ave. S., Mpls.
Quist, Wm. R. 6, Red Wing
Quinn, J. H. Delano
Quady. Wm. Blue Earth
Quast, John Buffalo Lake
Quigly, D. J. Litchfield
Quandt, Wm. Buffalo Lake
Quinlan, M. New Prague
Quinn, J. A. Tower
Rains, Dr. J. M. Willmar
Rankin, Prof. A. W. 916 5th St. S.E., Mpls.
Ramsdell, Chas. H. 812 N.Y. Life Bldg., Mpls.
Rafelson, Anton Montevideo
Ramey, E. W. Redwood Falls
Ray, F. W. 959 40th Ave. N.E., Mpls.
Ralston, Dr. J. F. Cavalier, N. D.
Ramm, E. A. Winona
Raths & Seavolt 447 Wabasha St., St. Paul
Rand, B. R. Frazee
Rauscher, John 673 Bidwell St., St. Paul
Raub, Clark Winnebago
Sahlfing, W. M. Cleveland
Rarig, Prof. F. M. 63 Barton Ave. S.E., Mpls.
Rauen, Mrs. P. J. White Bear
Raddatz, Arthur Pine Island
Rathlisberger, Chas. Slayton
Ranney, H. F. Benson
Raftery, W. H. Garrison, N. D.
Reeder, G. S. Sauk Rapids
Reed, John A. 707 Cham. of Com., Mpls.
Rees, S. B., Jr. Linden Hills, R. 2, Mpls.
Reeves, N. H. 3410 2nd St. N., Mpls.
Reeves, Mrs. John Nemadji
Reed, Calvin Care M. J. Johnson, Manning, N. D.
Reese, L. A. Cumberland, Wis.
Redpath, Geo. A. Big Sandy, Mont.
Rector, S. M. Deer Creek
Reeves, E. M. Waverly, Ia.
Regnier, E. 1640 Montreal, St. Paul
Ree, Selmer S. R. 1, Zumbrota
Reeves, Mrs. H. G. Nemadji
Reamer, J. L. 1921 Greysolon Rd., Duluth
Reed, M. H. Hastings
Rehbein, Ed R. 3, Duluth
Reinking, Wm. Osseo
Rekedal, S. E. Lucan
Reichert, John 215 E. 7th St., Red Wing
Reno, Nils Excelsior
Revord, T. A. Austin
Renner, Max St. Louis Park, Minn.
Remel, Casper Menomonie, Wis.
Reynolds, M. N. Turtle River
Reif, Geo. H. White Bear
Remsker, Rev. Peter Canby
Reiland, Wm. R. 1, Box 10, W. St. Paul
Rempel, Henry D. Mountain Lake
Renney, S. E. 2636 Pillsbury, Mpls.
Reinhardt, S. H. R. 3, Merriam Park
Reynolds, J. W. Kelliher
Reiten, Lars S. Hastings, N. D.
Reynolds, Virginia A. 232 W. Franklin, Mpls.
Rekkedal, Ole Minneota
Reynolds, John Crystal Bay
Reithner, C. W. Deer River
Rhodes, Clarence H. The Pioneer Co., 3rd & Minn. St., St. Paul
Richardson, Ira E. New Brighton
Richardson, L. P. Comfrey
Riehl, Frank Belle Plaine
Richardson, A. W. Howard Lake
Rieke, Adolph Fairfax
Rice, F. C. Northfield
Rice, L. H. Park Rapids
Rice, C. F. 218 N. 5th St., Mpls.
Rice, Millard Box No. 66, Berg, N. D.
Richardson, Jerry Hastings
Rice, Mrs. E. V. Dayton
Riden, T. E. Shevlin
Rieger, Rev. M. Hinckley
Richardson, A. O. Menahga
Riegel, J. M. Care Dispatch Ptg. Co., St. Paul
Richards, J. W. 6029 London Rd., Duluth
Richardson, H. C. 729 E. 6th St., Duluth
Rice, H. J. Benson
Richards, Mrs. Frank A. 1879 Dayton Ave., St. Paul
Richardson, W. D. Care Swift & Co., Chicago
Rink, Mrs. M. 894 Hastings Ave., St. Paul
Risser, H. A. R. 2, Hopkins
Rittle, Miss Anna E. 409 Marshall Ave., St. Paul
Rittmaster, Harry 934 Allen St. W. St. Paul
Ritchell, Wm. Sta. A., Minneapolis
Ritchell, Mrs. Frank H. 3364 Hayes St. N.E., Mpls.
Rising, Marion S. 787 Laurel Ave., St. Paul
Risch, John Elkton, S. D.
Ritchie, J. H. R. 2, White Bear Lake
Rimstad, Ludvik Dawson
Rindahl, C. L. Oklee
Ritt, A. 401 Sinnen St., St. Paul
Risk, Miss Mary M. R. 1, Adams, Wis.
Risdale, P. S. Am. For. Assn., Washington, D. C.
Robinson, Geo. W. 699 N. Snelling Ave., St. Paul
Robinson, Chas. A. 4633 S. Xerxes Ave., Mpls.
Robbins, H. M. Excelsior
Robson, C. A. Red Wing
Robertson, John Hot Springs, S. D.
Roads & Forests 1406 Majestic Bldg., Detroit
Roberts, C. M. 139 W. 40th St., Minneapolis
Roberts, Miss Emma M. 14 E. 51st St., Mpls.
Rogers, C. R. St. Anthony Falls Sta., Mpls.
Rodgers, Dr. Emma White Bear
Roe, C. E. 412 Providence Bldg., Duluth
Rodecker, L. V. Gladstone
Rohan, Mrs. M. A. 1004 Nicollet Ave., Mpls.
Rockhill, Harlow Conrad, Ia.
Rognlie, P. B. Esmond, N. D.
Rogers, Mrs. Geo. N., 462 E. King St., Winona
Roke, Rev. W. E. Verndale
Roe, Fredrik Madison
Rogers, T. C. 409 Hennepin Ave., Mpls.
Rodenberg, Henry Mindora, Wis.
Rogers, H. N. Farmington
Rojina, Frank Univ. Farm, St. Paul
Rockhill, Oscar Larchwood, Ia.
Roche, Wm. Inkster, N. D.
Rowell, H. H. S. Box 223 Lewiston, Idaho
Ross, Norman M. Indian Head, Sask.
Rosenwald, J. F. Madison
Rosander, J. W. Wayzata
Rosacker, Hans 19th Ave. and H. St. N. E. Mpls.
Rolin, John Breckenridge
Rowe, John Verndale
Rosenquist, Mrs. J. O. 3216 Blaisdell Ave., Mpls.
Rosenquist, Edwin Eagle Bend
Ronnigen, Otto Madison
Rossacker, Hans 1856 Stinson Blvd., Mpls.
Rowley, J. A. Blooming Prairie
Rokes, G. B. Woodstock
Rosenberger, Peter 1003 Stryker Ave, St. Paul
Rowe, Dr. A. T. Larimore, N. D.
Rotty, Mrs. Clara R. 2, Hastings
Rotty, John Sr. R. 2, Hastings
Rowse, And. Simpson
Rolvaag, Prof. O. E. Manitou Ave., Northfield
Rosengren, Carl Sacred Heart
Rovang, O. N. Dalton
Rowe, W. H. St. James
Rosholt, Mrs. Julius 1925 Penn Ave., Mpls.
Rosenstein, David 118 Washington Ave., Mpls.
Rowell, W. W. 3224 2nd Ave. S., Mpls.
Rose, Logan Mankato
Runals, Maj. D. E. Edgerton
Ruff, Mrs. D. W. C. Bald Eagle Lake
Rupley, Geo. 612 Lyceum Bldg., Duluth
Russell, Dr. E. B. Excelsior
Ruble, C. H. Albert Lea
Russell, S. B. Rochester
Reudlinger, C. N. 2924 Aldrich Ave., Mpls.
Rucker, I. W. Aitkin
Russell, Dr. Thos. Grand Rapids
Running, Alvin Montevideo
Rutherford, Geo. Clara City
Rusten, Erland J. Box 25, R. 4, Beresford, S. D.
Ruble, Harry E. Albert Lea
Russell, Hans Warroad
Rush, John H. Buffalo Lake
Rue, E. B. Lakefield
Rue, B. O. Lakefield
Ruttger, Jos. Deerwood
Rustin, J. O. Kelliher
Ruenitz, Nis Sleepy Eye
Rude, T. A. 320 3rd Ave. S., St. Paul
Ruth, S. S. Deer River
Rust, C. R. 1517 E. Superior St., Duluth
Ryan, Timothy Hopkins
Rysgaard, Jens Orchard Gardens, Savage
Ryan, Geo. L. North St. Paul
Ryden, P. Cambridge
Salzer, Geo. 606 Plymouth Bldg., Minneapolis
Salbach, F. C. 116 7th St. N., Great Falls, Mont.
Sampson, L. F. Excelsior
Saam, John 835 E. 6th St., St. Paul
Salveson, Rev. Adolph Toronto, S. D.
Salander, G. Donaldson's Greenhouse, Mpls.
Saltnass, A. M. 3712 11th Ave. S., Mpls.
Sabin, Bert Mission
Samuelson, H. R. Box 28, R. 1, Lafayette
Sahlin, Peter Red Top
Samuelson, Fred Eastwood
Sampson, Richard Excelsior
Sand, Ole O. Elbow Lake
Sawyer Mrs. N. S. Excelsior
Sandrock, Wm. Houston
Sayre, R. 108 E. 51st St. Sta., Chicago, Ill.
Sartell, Mrs. Jos. St. Cloud
Sandboe, I. A. Wegdahl
Sane, Peter P. R. 1, Montevideo
Salter, Lewis Morris
Sandberg, C. M. Lake City
Sauter, A. Excelsior
Sands, Louis Agri. School, St. Paul
Sawyer, C. W. 1400 Wash. Ave. N., Mpls.
Sanford, Mort Faribault
Sanborn, Louis 409 Lumber Exchange, Mpls.
Sanderson, Oscar Albert Lea
Satrang, I. I. Waterville, Ia.
Sanders, J. H. Buffalo Lake
Sanby, E. Elbow Lake
Sanborn, Edward A. 1786 Marshall Ave., St. Paul
Saunders, Mrs. Wm. Robbinsdale
Sawyer, L. E. 2538 Fillmore St. N. E., Mpls.
Saxson, C. R. Worthington
Sandberg, John H. Pequot
Saueressig, W. A. Drake, N. D.
Sanford, M. W. Faribault
Scott, Wm. G. R. 4, Winnipeg, Man.
Schlemmer, A. Chisago City
Schotzko, F. E. Springfield
Schwerin, Henry Echo
Scherber, J. D. Rogers
Schreiner, Francis X. R. 2, W. St. Paul
Schmidt, Edward R. 3, Mankato
Schiffrer, Rev. Val. Madison
Schmitz, Jacob Shakopee
Schrooten, J. Fairmont
Schumann, Carl Round Lake
Scott, Z. D. Scott-Graff Lbr. Co., Duluth
Schulcz, Peter Wells
Schlemmer, C. H. 1602 Hague Ave., St. Paul
Schnathorst, Wm. Frazee
Schultz, L. S. Excelsior
Schriber, Fred H. White Bear Lake
Scott, Miss Zaidee A. 810 McKnight Bldg., Mpls.
Scone, Mrs J. A. 2015 Girard Ave. N., Mpls.
Schumaker, R. H. Bemidji
Schroedel, John Sherburn
Schumacher, Albert G. Fairfax
Schultz, Wm. G. Elgin
Schaffer, Arthur R. 5, Windom
Scott, W. C. 2109 Doswell, St. Paul
Schlegel, F. T. Chokio
Schmickle, C. W. South Haven
Schmitt, Adrian 629 2nd St. N. E., Mpls.
Scobie, Frank Sleepy Eye
Schmitt, Jos. E. Stryker and Butler St., W. St. Paul
Schleusner, Ernest R. 5, Menomonie, Wis.
Schulz, Joseph Lester Prairie
Scobie, Bertha C., 4172 Eddy St., Chicago, Ill.
Schultz, Mrs. O. W., 5019 1st Ave. S., Mpls.
Scherf, Fred Osseo
Schlomkey, Chas. Newport
Scott, John T. 1486 Hythe St., St. Paul
Score, John J. Wolf Butte, N. D.
Schuneman, Wesley Schuneman & Evans, St. Paul
Schulz, Carl Melrose
Schroeder, C. A. Mankato
Schaefer, Mrs. Henry Sta. F, R. 1, Mpls.
Schuneman, Carl T. Schuneman & Evans, St. Paul
Scott, E. B. Laporte
Schweizer, Myron, 1185 Hague Ave., St. Paul
Schechter, J. R. 6, Worthington
Scott, C. G.,
Gowan Lenning Brown, Duluth
Schnidt, Rev. Otto E. Decorah, Ia.
Scanlan, John S. Long Prairie
Schultz, Theo. R. 2, Monticello
Scheffold, Rev. Geo. Wayzata
Schoeneman, Wm. F. 1111 Goff Ave., W. St. Paul
Schneider, J. J. Renville
Schwarg, Mrs. P. J. Dodge Center
Schneider, Rudolph C. 708 Osceola Ave., St. Paul
Schmidt, Alois Hugo
Sell, Chas. Delano
Selvig, C. C. Willmar
Seiler, J. M. Excelsior
Secor, Eugene Forest City, Ia.
Searles, Robt. Hammond, Wis.
Seifert, Frank L. New Ulm
Segrin, Frank Sauk Center
Seines, O. E. Windom
Seidl, John N. 1063 Goff Ave., W. St. Paul
Selby, J. S. La Crescent
Secor, A. J. Pipestone
Sederstrom, Alfred R. 5, Montevideo
Sebbe, Nels Box 21, Esmond, N. D.
Seitz, W. A. Laurel, Mont.
Severson, F. L. Stewartville
Setterholm, L. W. Dale
Severa, Emil 1677 Vincent Ave. N., Mpls.
Senecal, J. W., 1307 Yale Place, Apt. 10, Mpls.
Seymore, Mrs. M. T., 109 W. 3rd St., Duluth
Seward, Fred Central Lake
Shannon, R. Annandale
Shepley, Mrs. E. L. 12 Summit Court, St. Paul
Shave, Alfred S. Hawley
Shattuck, G. W. Whalan
Shaw, Robt. Finkley
Shelley, T. E. Hanska
Shenahan, F. C.,
Univ. of Minn., Minneapolis
Sherwood, Geo. E. Kimball
Shelland, Miss Ann Dept. Public Inst., Capitol, St. Paul
Sherwood, W. C. Woodland Ave., Duluth
Sherman Nursery Co. Charles City, Ia.
Sharpless. Rev. S. F. Fergus Falls
Shenk, Wm. J., 897 Oakland Ave., W. St. Paul
Shenandoah Nurseries Shenandoah, Iowa
Shepherd, A. K., 1963 Ashland Ave., St. Paul
Shane, Danl. West Salem, Wis.
Sharp, A. B. Lincoln
Shaw, Dr. A. W. Buhl
Sherman, E. D. Morgan
Sherwood, M. W. Chatfield
Shellum, Jacob Goodthunder
Sharpsteen, Mr. 125 Cecil St. S.E., Mpls.
Sheppard, F. J., 103 E. Lake St. Minneapolis
Sheer, Otto Maple Plain
Shaw Botanical Gardens St. Louis, Mo.
Sheldrew, Geo. Grygla
Shaw, Daniel Thief River Falls
Shirley, H. L. Breckenridge
Short, Mrs. John Wayzata
Shoen, Mrs. Mary Comfrey
Shivley, Lloyd R. Tower
Shields, Miss Box 7, Shields, Pa.
Shields, Martin M. Faribault
Shoaff, T. H. Grand Rapids
Shoquist, Isaac Clinton
Simmons, W. A. 1620 So. Spring Ave., Sioux Falls, S. D.
Simpson, Hon. David, N.Y. Life Bldg., Mpls.
Sipher, Mrs. A. J. Aitkin
Simmons, W. A. 1620 S. Spring Ave., Sioux Fals, S. D.
Siehl, C. D. 4449 Beard Ave. S., Mpls.
Simmons, Irwin Glenwood
Sims, S. A. Excelsior
Siegle, Simon Carver
Sill, J. W. Belgrade
Simison, Dr. C. W. Hawley
Simon, Otto 1085 Goff Ave., W. St. Paul
Sikes, S. R. 915 Wash. Ave. So., Mpls.
Silliman, A. P. Hibbing
Singer, Edw. Erie
Signs, Mrs. C. E. 873 Ottawa St., St. Paul
Sinclair, C. E. 225 Kasota Blk., Mpls.
Silbernagel, Peter, Jr. Dent
Simons, Orlando Glencoe
Simek, Alois L. 306 State Ave., Owatonna
Sigl, Cyrill M. Hopp, Mont.
Sinclair, Mrs. E. L. 425 So. Prospect, Rochester
Simmons, A. W. Forest Lake
Sisler, A. M. Grand Rapids
Sincock, W. J. 1025 Central Ave., Virginia
Simmons, L. L. Grand Marais
Sjoquist, John A. St. James
Skytte, C. J. Fisher and Autumn St., St. Paul
Skinner, J. W. Saum
Skinnemoen, Ole Wendell
Skoog, A. L. Carver
Skorpen, Jens Valley City, N. D.
Skrivseth, B. L. Buxton, N. D.
Skogland, Clarence 1069 E. Ave., Red Wing
Skinner, J. H. Austin
Skretting, Rasmus Red Top
Skaurud, H. O. R. 2, Twin Valley
Sloan, F. G. Ellendale
Slinner, L. Burtrum
Sloan, Mrs. J. B. 1740 Laurel Ave., St. Paul
Slack, H. W. 1736 Princeton Ave., St. Paul
Smith, C. H. Faribault
Smith, F. C. Plumb City, Wis.
Smith, Mrs. W. S. 486 Portland Ave., St. Paul
Smith, E. D. 213 Phoenix Bldg., Mpls.
Smith, S. D. Stanton
Smith, C. L. 2018 Hawthorn Ave., Mpls.
Smith, T. C. Lakeville
Smith, A. D. Redwood Falls
Smith, L. Z. Mankato
Smith, D. D. St. Paul
Smith, Fred W. Bottineau, N. D.
Smiley, R. W. 713 E. 2nd. St., Duluth
Smith, B. W. 132 E. Lake St., Mpls.
Smith, W. F. Sturgeon Lake
Smith, Mrs. Geo. W. Dent
Smith, Geo. D. Faribault
Smith, Rev. F. J. St. Francis
Smith, H. W. R. 2, Richville
Smith, Wm. Richville
Smith, Theo. Richville
Smith, E. E. R. 2, South Haven
Smith, C. W. Lakeville
Smith, Joe J. Agri. College, N. D.
Emith, A. C. 2095 Commonwealth Ave., St. Paul
Smith, Mrs. Jessie E. Thief River Falls
Smith, Geo. O. 2721 Minn. Ave., Duluth
Simer, Jerome Spring Park
Snyder, C. E. Preston
Snell, H. D. 2354 Chilcomb Ave., St. Paul
Snoke, Guy Wayzata
Sorenson, S. Anoka
Solem, O. A. Th. Halstad
Solseth, Ed. A. Box 182, Watson
Sorenson, Otto A. Albert Lea
Soderlund, Nels Box 54, Alvarado
Sommerfeld, F. W. Echo
Solem, Peter Thief River Falls
Soderholm, Ellis Atwater
Sommers, Benj. 6th and Wacouta St., St. Paul
Soderholm, C. Reading
Soule, H. E. 417 Plymouth Bldg., Mpls.
Southall, John Berlin, N. D.
Solberg, A. J. Winger
Sonnesyn, E. C. 1805 10th Ave. So., Mpls.
Sorby, H. Montevideo
Sovereign, Mrs. Emma Sauk Rapids
Souther, Moses F. Hector
Sorenson, Jens Alb. Armstrong
Soesch, M. C. R. 1, Kimball
Spates, S. R. Wayzata
Sperr, Fred Donnelly
Spadino, Fred St. Paul Park
Spiten, O. G. Hayfield
Sprague, Clifford Madelia
Speelman, Mrs. S. A. Turtle River
Spencer, G. H. 404 Hawthorn Rd., Duluth
Sperl, John B. Box 71, R. 2, W. St. Paul
Spicer, W. A. R. 2, Bagley
Sprague, Mrs. Jas. W., 3120 Irving S., Mpls.
Sperbeck, Frank R. 2, Winona
Spielman, E. F. R. 5, Worthington
Stai, Chas. R. 607 Torrey Bldg., Duluth
Starr, Miss Elizabeth Minneapolis
State Reformatory St. Cloud
Stahl, H. H. Minot, N. D.
Stakman, Prof. E. C. Univ. Farm, St. Paul
Staar, John Grasston
Stanley, T. W. Baudette
Stassen, Win. A. Charlton Germs, St. Paul
Stahl, Chas. Laporte
Staley, G. M. Grand Rapids
Stahl, F. J. Cottage Park, White Bear
Steller, G. F. Excelsior
Stevenson, A. P. Morden, Man.
Steiner, John Iona
Stewart, Prof. John St. Anthony Park
Stelter, A. L. Rosemount
Stemsrud, M. A. Madison
Stebbins, Vera 320 Oak Grove St., Mpls.
Stemple, Aug. St. Peter
Stevens, H. G. Cloquet
Steele, Wm. M. Mound
Stewart, R. G. 1349 Reaney St., St. Paul
Steere, W. S. R. 1, Savage
Stevens, W. C. 3901 Thomas Ave. So., Mpls.
Sten, John Red Wing
Stennes, E. J. R. 6, Montevideo
Steckel, Rev. L. W. Albert Lea
Steene, Peter Lancaster
Stephens, P. J. Estevan, Sask.
Steenerson Van Hook, N. D.
Stender, Mrs. Chas. Dent
Stenlyem, Peter O. Esmond, N. D.
Stevins, W. C. South Haven
Stevens, S. Geo. Fond du Lac
Stepanek, Fred Ogilvie
Stepanek, Mrs. Joe Ogilvie
Stevens, Mrs. J. W. 458 Holly Ave., St. Paul
Stevenson, Miss Isabel Delhi
Steele, W. R. Big Fork
Stockwell, S. A. 304 Andrus Bldg., Mpls.
Stork, W. E., 363 S. Cleveland Ave., St. Paul
Street, H. G. Hebron, Ill.
Strader, W. M. R. 6, Mankato
Stowe, J. M. Hibbing
Stryker, Mrs. J. E. Pioneer Press Bldg., St. Paul
Stoa, Martin Albert Lea
Stromsedt, O. N. Willmar
Strand, A. K. Twin Valley
Stryker, John D. Woodland Ave., Hunters Park, Duluth
Stillwell, John A. Arago
Stocker, Ben Sanborn
Stull, L. B. Mazeppa
Strate, E. B. 658 Plum St., St. Paul
Storeim, Albert S. Ortonville
Stone, A. L. Benson
Stubbs, Milton Long Lake
Strable, Karl 3038 Blaisdell Ave., Mpls.
Stickney, L. A. Minnesota City
Stranden, Ole G. Swift
Stob, C. T. R. 2, Svea
Stone, W. M. 16 So. 3rd St., Mpls.
Stoleson, Theo. R. 1, Viroqua, Wis.
Stromnar, J. A. Rollag
Stob, G. Raymond
Strachaners, Clarence 412 Syndicate Bldg., Mpls.
Strissel, H. E. Fergus Falls
Stowe, A. W. Laurel, Mont.
Strauss, Mrs. Minnie 624 Ohio St., St. Paul
Strong, Mrs. Saml. Hopkins
Stromstad, Torval M. Shelly
Strathern, John Rich Valley
Stewart, Mrs. Nina Northfield
Strey, A. C. Montrose
Stocking, Wm. St. Peter
Stockton, Mrs. C. M. Faribault
Stromme, C. K. Hannaford, N. D.
Strong, J. P. Excelsior
Stone, E. E. Downing, Wis.
Strandli, Erick Big Falls
Stryker, John E. 816 Globe Bldg., St. Paul
Sundberg, Chas. A. Worthington
Sucker, Adolph Lewisville
Sundheim, A. M. 3205 Park Ave., Mpls.
Sundt, Ole M. Willmar
Summerfield, Isaac 921 Goodrich Ave., St. Paul
Summers, Mrs. L. Box 23-B, R. 1, Mansfield, Wash.
Sullwold, H. A. 1773 Summit Ave., St. Paul
Sullivan, John 361 Iglehart, St. Paul
Svaboda, Frank Canby
Svaboda, J. Browerville
Swanson, Albert R. 1, St. Croix Falls, Wis.
Swann, J. R. Madison
Swanson, Chas. R. 2, No. St. Paul
Swedberg, J. E. R. 2, Battle Lake
Swanson, C. W. Box 29, R. 1, Lafayette
Swanson, Alfred 584 Boxrud Ave., Red Wing
Swan, Mrs. T. P. Mendota
Swanson, Henry A. Cushing, Wis.
Swanson, A. P. Box 268 Stevensville, Mont.
Swedberg, P. W. Moose Lake
Sweet, W. H. 1731 Chicago Ave., Mpls.
Swensson, John Box 57, R. 2, Maynard
Swart, J. W. 4051 Linden Hills Blvd., Mpls.
Swenson, Gunder R. 3, New London
Swenson, H. E. R. 1, Center City
Swedberg, J. I. Madison
Syrdal, R. R. Shelly
St. John, A. M. Lakefield
St. John, P. R. 3121 Humboldt So., Mpls.
St. Clair, H. Estevan, Sask.
Swanson, John W. Stephen
Swanson, Wm. Dent
Swedenberg, M. F. Lyndale Sta., Mpls.
Swenson, Ed Spring Valley
Swanson, Mrs. J. M. R. 1, Eagle Bend
Swanson, F. M. Crete, N. D.
Swedberg, Martin Tappan, N. D.
Swenson, Emil Lafayette
Swanson, Chas. S. W. Litchfield
Swain, F. O. Lincoln
Swanson, Mrs. Marie E. R. 1, St. Croix Falls, Wis.
Swan, Frank Woodlake
Sweet, Orla Alexandria
Taylor, M. F. Anoka
Talcott, Mrs. A. L. Westbrook
Taylor, John W. 206 Globe Bldg., St. Paul
Tallant, F. E. 711 Plymouth Bldg., Mpls.
Tallafson, H. S. R. 5, Willmar
Taylor, Thos. W. Eagle Bend
Taylor, J. G. 932 Nicollet Ave., Mpls.
Tavener, Mark Esmond, N.D.
Taylor, J. B. Ipswich, S.D.
Tavis, Fred Albert Lea
Tappe, Chas. Box 6, R. 1, Sebeka
Taylor, G. F. Excelsior
Tauscheck, Jos. 966 Allen Ave., W. St. Paul
Tanner, F. O. Brownsdale
Tappan, W. M. Hibbing
Taylor, Rev. Wm. Litchfield
Taner, Geo. M. New Ulm
Taylor, E. E. Merrifield
Talland, G. M. 534 Woodland Ave., Duluth
Taylor, Mrs. E. A. Box 26, Faribault
Taylor, Wm. Faribault
Terry, L. W. Howard Lake
Teisberg, O. T. Zumbrota
Tewes, Fred Mazeppa
Teeple, David P. R. No. 3, Wells
Tereau, Mrs. F. 430 Iglehart Ave., St. Paul
Templeton, A. E. 602 Oneida Bldg., Mpls.
Tenter, Henry Dent
Tenter, Wm. Dent
Temple, Lyle Morristown
Tellin, Mattie Deer River
Thompson, F. S. 234 Sec. Bldg., Mpls.
Theilmann, Geo. Excelsior
Thunstedt, John Willmar
Thiebaut, Rev. C. Browns Valley
Thompson, Torkel Louisburg
Thorp, Col. Freeman Hubert
Thomas, Chas. J. Frazee
Thompson, Dr. C. S. W. 137-1/2 Main St., Helena, Mont.
Throolin, P. J. 4018 Van Buren St., NE, Mpls.
Thomas, E. L. Vergas
Thornton, M. J. Deer River
Thorpe, Ralph 2837 Central NE., Mpls.
Thornton, F. C. Benson
Thornton, M. P. Worthington
Thompson, Robt. R. No. 5, Willmar
Thompson, Fred. M Bricelyn
Thompson, W. J. Pitt
Thompson, R. C. Oneida Blk., Mpls.
Thor, Herman Mound
Thompson, M. J. Supt. Exp. Farm, Duluth
Thompson, Harold Care of Lake Shore Greenhouses, Albert Lea
Theilen, Chas. G. 3327 Morgan Ave. N., Mpls.
Thompson, O. A. Murdock
Thielman, P. R. St. Cloud
Tharen, J. A. Hills
Thener, John M. Adrian
Thierschaefer, Jos. R. 6, Sauk Center
Thomson, C. Jean 416 N. 18th Ave. E., Duluth
Thompson, Thorwold Oslo
Thomson, M. A. 426 Kennilworth Ave., Duluth
Thompson, L. C. Ruthton
Thomson, W. J. Shaunavon, Sask.
Thorn, Geo. R. 2, Prescott, Wis.
Tingley, W. J. Forest Lake
Tillotson, Mrs. H. B. 1320 5th St. SE, Mpls.
Tillisch, J. F. F. Renville
Titus, S. L. 140 Endicott Arcade, St. Paul
Tillisch, Mary A. Washburn Home, Mpls.
Tiedt, Mrs. Fred Argyle
Tilden, Miss M. B. Sta. F, Mpls.
Tisdale, Mrs. G. E. 3144 Irving S., Mpls.
Timmerman, Mrs. Wm. 381 E. Cook St., St. Paul
Tjosvold, L. A. Willmar
Torgerson, H. P. Astoria, S.D.
Tomalin, W. H. Bx. 304, Regina, Sask.
Totusek, Frank J. Silver Lake
Towler, Robt. S. R. 1, Exceisior
Torfin, Iver Wannaska
Tollefson, Hogen R. No. 2, Clearbrook
Tomlinson, W. H. LeSueur
Tolberg, O. Edwin Winner
Todd, J. E. Dept. of Prov. Secy., Toronto, Ont.
Todji, Rev. Jos. Searles
Tomlin, G. C. Edgeley, N.D.
Tome, G. H. Pine Island
Townsend, Mrs. Eddie Pine Island
Tormanen, Peter R. 4, Cokato
Torgrim, J. R. 621 W. 3rd Ave., Mitchell, S.D.
Todd, J. A. 212 Victoria St., Duluth
Tostenson, E. Jackson
Torguson, G. C. Gleenwood
Trumble, H. W. Sherburn
Trabert, Chas. L., Secy. 2736 Elmwood Ave., Berkeley, Sal.
Tripps, O. A. R. No. 3, St. Cloud
Train, G. L. Chisholm
Trafton, Gilbert H. Mankato
Trask, Ebert Saum
Trethewey, J. H. Virginia
Trybe, Thos. Eagle Bend
Trautz, Geo. 2108 Carroll Ave., St. Paul
Trotler, A. 227 Spruce St., Virginia
Tschieda, Matt St. Cloud
Turner, H. H. Northfield
Tuskind, C. O. Davenport, N.D.
Turner, John Shakopee
Tufte, Theo. T. Northwood, N.D.
Tucker, Joe Austin
Tull, W. H. Padus, Wis.
Tyacke, Geo. Proctor
Unze, Geo. Shakopee
Unumb, P. O. Alexandria
Ueland, M. K. Shelly
Univ. of Wash. Seattle, Wash.
Uptagraft, LeRoy West Concord
Unkenholz, S. W. Mandan, N.D.
Utsch, Herman Little Falls
Univ. of Mo. Genl. Lib. Columbia, Mo.
Unumb, E. O. Alexandria
Umbstaetter, Mrs. Shields, Pa.
Ulschmit, John Frazee
Uelander, T. L. Crystal Bay
Univ. of Ill. Library Chicago, Ill.
Vangen, Peter O. Box 9, R. 1, Climax
Vande Bogart, W. S. Zumbrota
Van Vick, John Spiritwood, N.D.
Vandermarck, Mrs. C. W. 818 Albert St., Crookston
Vanstrum, John A. Clarkfield
Vance, F. L. Popple
Vander Veer, Geo. H. Center City
Van Duzee, E. M. White Bear Lake
Vanbeck, Henry 1843 Quincy St. NE., Mpls.
Van Loon, John R. 2, La Crosse, Wis.
Varden, Archie Care of Frank Bovey, Wayzata
Van Doom, J. C. 836 Sec. Bldg., Mpls.
Van Stone, I. M. 3322 Park Ave., Mpls.
Vacinek, Vaclav R. 1, Pine City
Veit, Fred Fergus Falls
Verplank, E. E. R. 1, New Richland
Velie, Chas. D. 225 Clifton Ave., Mpls.
Vestre, Lars Boyd
Velde, G. T. Granite Falls
Vine, W. W. R. 1. Elgin
Vinquist, Alfred B. Box 74, R. 3, Red Wing
Vibert, F. D. The Pine Knot, Cloquet
Viall, Roy Spring Valley
Vierling, Ed. J. Shakopee
Vine, P. O. Porter
Va. & Rainy Lake Co. Virginia
Viel, Raymond St. Laurent, Man.
Vierling, M. A. 824 Hall Ave., St. Paul
Vikse, Ole Ostrander
Vibert, Percy Cloquet
Vincent, G. E. Univ. of Minn., Mpls.
Vincent, V. D. Commercial Club, Duluth
Vikla, John P. Lonsdale
Vikla, Wencel J. Lonsdale
Vikla, Martin J. Lonsdale
Vikla, Mathias R. Lonsdale
Villaume, Eugene 123 W. Isabel, St. Paul
Volkmer, Henry Holdingford
Vollenweider, Henry La Crescent
Vogt, C. F. St. Paul
Von Herff, B. 1901 McCormick Bldg., Chicago, Ill.
Voyler, Henry Vergas
Vodden, John Argusville, N.D.
Vorlicky, Jos. Thief River Palls, Wis.
Vosejpka, John M. Lonsdale
Voehl, H. W. Lakefield
Vraspir, Frank R. 2, Hopkins
Wade, R. H. Odin
Wachlin, Wm. Faribault
Wakefield, W., M. D. Lake Benton
Wagner, Ed. R. 649 Charles St., St. Paul
Waas, P. H. Dresbach
Waite, Geo. Moorhead
Wach, V. N. Lake Crystal Lake, Ill.
Waite, Jas. F. Eureka
Wagner, C. D. W. Winona St., Duluth
Wang, Albert 926 Garfield Ave., Duluth
Wands, Robt. W. Little Falls
Walgren, Swan J. 3048 10th Ave. S., Mpls.
Walden, J. M. Northfield
Wallner, Berthold Jr. 200 Dodd Rd., St. Paul
Waldholm, Mrs. Geo. Tintah
Wallace, H. L. Grasston
Walsh, W. P. Murdock
Walz, Fred F. Egeland, N.D.
Walters, J. J. Dupree, S.D.
Walz, Theo. Watkins
Walkup, J. E. 2416 Sheridan So., Mpls.
Walton, Louis 351 Snively Rd., Duluth
Waldal, Marius Plummer
Waller, L. S. Waubun
Wallin, O. Red Top
Walters, Wm. Grand Portage
Walker, Roy Sauk Rapids
Wallace, John G. Solway
Watt, John Leonard, N.D.
Wampler, A. J. 134 E. 4th St., St. Paul
Washburn, W. O. 63 So. Robert St., St. Paul
Wattner, A. A. Canby
Washburn, Prof. F. L. St. Anthony Park
Wanous, Frank R. Glencoe
Warren, Mrs. Geo. H. 3443 Irving S., Mpls.
Wanlass, Jos. Jr. Bangor, Wis.
Warner, Frank Snow Ball
Watts, Arthur 2833 17th Ave. S., Mpls.
Watt, Wm. Swift
Warner, A. L. Duluth
Washburn, C. O. Edgeley, N.D.
Warren, A. A. R. 3, St. Cloud
Warner, C. E. R. 1, Osseo
Warner, Mrs. C. E. Box 85, R. 1, Osseo
Wayne, Jens R. 4, Ellendale
Wandrie, Otto Frazee
Watson, Jas. T. 40th Ave. E. and Gilbert St., Duluth
Warnock, R. W. Independence, Mo.
Watson, Dwight H. Box 212, White Bear Lake
Warner, Mrs. E. C. 3030 W. Calhoun Blvd., Mpls.
Warren, Mrs. Clyde W. Sauk Rapids
Warwick, Andrew 2525 13th Ave. S., Mpls.
Watson, Mrs. J. L. 1173 Ashland Ave., St. Paul
Wardian, Math. Holdingford
Ward, Wesley Mapleton
Wasserzieher, Edward Deerwood
Watzke, Chas. Belgrade
Ware, Mrs. Elizabeth 2885-1/2 Knox Ave., Mpls.
Watson, Geo. P. International Falls
Weld, J. O. 1601 Fremont N., Mpls.
Welke, Sam Fall Creek, Wis.
Wedge, Robt. C. Albert Lea
Weld, Mrs. H. E. Moorhead
Weinhagen, Chas. 361 Bates Ave., St. Paul
Webster, J. K. St. James
Wedge, A.G. Jr. Bemidji
Wedge, L. P. Albert Lea
Wenz, Chas. Hector
Weflen, Chris Montevideo
Weed, Ben B. Care of Weed, Parker & Co., St. Paul
Wegmann, Theo. Lake Itasca
Wendt, Chas. H. Blue Earth
Webber, Mrs. C. C. Crystal Bay
Webster, A. E. Dresbach
Wellman, C. W. Dauphin, Man.
Welke, Fritz R. 1, Eau Claire, Wis.
Wentworth, R. J. R. 3, Robbinsdale
Weber, J. A. Care of C. G. Goodrich, Excelsior
Welp, Rev. Francis Alexandria
Webber, C. C. Crystal Bay
Weikert, Henry I. St. Paul
Wenholz, Henry Buffalo Lake
Wendelschafer, T. G. Cleveland
Wenz, Ludwig B. Hector
Weiler, Nick 871 Univ. Ave., St. Paul
Westergaard, C. Buffalo, N.D.
Westergaard, P. J. Belgrade
Weyerhaeuser, F. E. 1413 Mer. Natl. Bank Bldg., St. Paul
Westfield, Kasper Canby
West Central School of Agri. Morris
Wetzel, Aug. R. 1, St. Ignatius, Mont.
Weyerhauser, C. A. Little Falls
Wetherbee, M. H. Charles City, Ia.
West, J. P. Rockford
West, W. J. Hibbing
West, Wm. L. 43 S. St. Albans St., St. Paul
Werner, H. O. Agri. College, N.D.
Wetzel, Mrs. Paul K. Deerwood
Westcott, Geo. E. 1173 S. Robert St., St. Paul
Westerfield, E. O. Fort Atkinson, Wis.
Weum, C. O. Lincoln
Wesiphall, C. D. R. 2, Romely
Weston, Frank Clitheral
Weum, Mrs. T. A. Kenyon
Wessels, Percy Neche, N.D.
Wetteland, T. Sunfish Rd. and Butler St., W. St. Paul
Wermerskirchen, Rev. Father A. Hokah
Wheeler, Miss Gerda Bruno
Whetstone, Dr. Mary S. 738 E. 16th St., Mpls.
Wheeler, Olin D.N.P.R.R. Office, St. Paul
Wheeler, Jesse Excelsior
Wein, Rev. H. J. Caledonia
Week, F. D. Slayton
Wenzel, Orrin J. 1718 Taylor Ave., St. Paul
Whiting, Geo. H. Yankton, S.D.
Whitney, Geo. G. 420 Germania Life, St. Paul
White, Mrs. Emma V. 3010 S. Aldrich, Mpls.
Whiting, D. J. Northfield
Whyte, A. 662 Central Ave., St. Paul
White, J. U. Brainerd
Whitten, Thos. S. Winton
Whipple, G. M. St. Louis Park
White, H. H. Minnesota Transfer, Mpls.
Whitney, Frank H. Truman
Whittemore, Dr. M. K. Cloquet
Whitney, N. J. Albert Lea
Whiting, Mrs. Geo. H. Yankton, S.D.
Whitchill, N. 1208 E. 26th St., Mpls.
Whitney, E. H. Granada
White, Mrs. Wm. G. 767 Goodrich Ave., St. Paul
White, Mrs. Grace 347 W. Wabasha, Duluth
Whorton, R. D. Huron, S. D.
White, Henry R. Brainerd
Whipple, Mrs. Estelle Grand Rapids
Wickland, John Atwater
Wiegel, H. A. Magnolia
Widmoyer, W. S. La Crescent
Wichman, Frank First Natl. Bank Bldg., St. Paul
Wick, Oscar East Grand Forks
Wickstrom, A. E. R. 1, Anoka
Width, A. B. 2018 W. Superior St., Duluth
Wicklund, Lawrence R. 6, Atwater
Wiggins, Earl L. Baudette
Wiffler, Fred Arcadia, Wis.
Wier, John Campbell
Wiggin, G. H. Cloquet
Wieschmann, Albert Bertha
Wilen, Chas. R. 3, Argyle
Wilson, Oscar Underwood
Willis, Rev. Francis Excelsior
Wilbur, D. Floyd, Ia.
Wille, F. W. 1046 Wakefield Ave., St. Paul
Williams, M. Staples
Will, O. H. Bismarck, N. D.
Wilder, C. B. Floodwood
Wilder, Mark L. R. 1, Kasota
Wilwerding, Nick Box 25, R. 5, St. Cloud
Willius, F 469 Laurel Ave., St. Paul
Willard, D. E N. P. R. R., St. Paul
Will, Wm. Beltrami
Wilson, J. F. Cloquet
Willard, E. C. Mankato
Williams, Niles L. Dayton Bluff Sta., St. Paul
Wildung, W. H. Howard Lake
Will, Hugh Box 29, Mpls.
Wilkelmi, F. W. Cloquet
Willis, Robt. Marietta
Willus, Chas. H. 4140 32nd Ave. S., Mpls.
Wilson, John Rockford
Wilcox, Mrs. Estelle 1122 Raymond, St. Paul
Wild Floral Co., Frank Sarcoxie, Mo.
Wilwerding, A. J. Freeport
Williams, J. R. Elgin
Willis, W. J. Y. M. C. A., Washington, D. C.
Wilson, F. K. R. 1, Hopkins
Wilson, Donald Mantorville
Williams, Rev. E. M Northfield
Wirth, Theo. 3956 Bryant So., Mpls.
Witte, H. L. F. R. 3, Hopkins
Wise, H. Appleton
Wingate, Mrs. W. S. Excelsior
Winkley, F. C. Minn. Loan & Trust, Mpls.
Wintersteen, C. B. 3949 11th Ave. So., Mpls.
Wise, H. R. Brainerd
Winget & Keeler Chokio
Winslow, H. H. Northome
Winjum, G. K. Albert Lea
Winter, E. F. Fergus Falls
Winkler, Mrs. Mary Brooten
Wister, John C Germantown, Phila., Pa.
Windmiller, Miss Pauline Mankato
Windhorst, Geo. W. Olivia
Wolner, Rev. H. J. Virginia
Wolfram, A. C. Belle Plain
Wolner, Dr. O. H. Gilbert
Wodny, Jas. 339 4th St., Cloquet
Wolters, John 182 W. Bernard St., W. St. Paul
Wolfinger, Jos. So. St. Paul
Woestehoff, J. C. Blakeley
Wolf, Chas. Cohasset
Wilson, H. M. 1116 Harrison St., Superior, Wis.
Willis, F. D. 75 E. Sycamore St., St. Paul
Wilcox, J. P. R. 2, Excelsior
Willis, R. J. 956 Grand Ave., St. Paul
Wilkus, A. J. 909 Winslow Ave., W. St. Paul
Williams, L. A. Pelican Rapids
Wille, Otto L. 110 Bates Ave. St. Paul
Wilson, E. B. 1815 Emerson No., Mpls.
Williams, E. E. 1709. W. 2nd St., Duluth
Williams, Dr. J. P. 3722 E. Lake St., Mpls.
Wilkinson, F. L. White Bear
Wilkinson, Mrs. R. J. Stillwater
Wilhalm, Henry Jackson
Wilwerding, J. M. Caledonia
Wilson, John Homer
Wilson, Mrs. Mary C. R. 1, Sta. F., Mpls.
Woodruff, C. O. Excelsior
Woodel, C. F. Austin
Woodworth, W. D. Little Falls
Wortman, H. J. Watkins
Woods, Prof. Geo. B. Northfield
Works, R. M. 2908 Fremont So., Mpls.
Woodward, Philip M. R. 1, Onamia
Woodman, M. H. Sutherland, Neb.
Worden, Mrs. Lillian 256 Farrington, St. Paul
Woods, W. A. Inverness, Mont.
Woodland & Roadside 4 Joy St., Boston, Mass.
Woods, Roy E. New Effington, S. D.
Woods, J. H. Calgary, Can.
Willis, Katon Deer River
Wright, A. V. Mine Center, Ont.
Wright, W. H. R. 3, Minneapolis
Wright, Edward 2544 Woodland Ave., Duluth
Wunderlich, Miss Susie Burns, Sask.
Wulfsberg, Einar Elbow Lake
Wyman, Mrs. A. Phelps 5017 3rd Ave. S., Mpls
Wyse, Oliver Onamia
Wygart, Wm. S. Newport
Yahnke, W. A. Winona
Yegge, C. M. Alpena, S. D.
Yale Forest School New Haven, Conn.
Young, Mrs. J. Onamia
Youngstrom, O. J. Litchfield
Young, J. C. 1523 Wash. St. N. E., Mpls.
York, R. A. Sandwich, Ill.
Yort, A. S. Box 35, Hopkins
Young, A. F Lake City
Young, Max M. 1777 Marshall Ave., St. Paul
Zuercher, F. Excelsior
Zrust, Anthony Silver Lake
Zachritz, Geo. P. Excelsior
Ziemer, Ernest St. Bonifacius
Zisch, Chas. Dresbach
Zimmerman, Eli 425 W. Superior St., Duluth
Zumwinkle, Wm. Morton
Zimbinski, Geo. 1243 Hewitt Ave., St. Paul
Life Members.
Adams, Mrs. Louisa J. 1827 Irving N., Mpls.
Ahneman, Geo. F. Mazeppa
Alin, Alex. Fullerton, N. D.
Anderson, G. A. Renville
Anderson, Rev. J. W. Minot, N. D.
Andrews, C. H. Faribault
Arneson, A. N. Wagdahl
Arnold, L. B. 24 Butte Ave., Duluth
Aspden, H. H. Excelsior
Andrews, John K. Faribault
Anderson, Mrs. E. Lake Park, R. 2
Andresen, A. S. 2607 E. Fifth St., Duluth
Aamodt, A. W. Univ. Farm, St. Paul
Appleby, H. J. Minneiska
Bailey, E. G. R. 1, Excelsior Care W. C. Rockwood
Baker, Geo. A. Janesville
Barsness, J. A. Kenyon
Bassett, A. K. Baraboo, Wis.
Beebe, H. U. Lake City
Benham, R. H. 215 Palace Bldg., Mpls.
Benson, Edwin Jackson
Berrisford, E. F. 386 Robert St., St. Paul
Blain, H. J. Maple Plain
Boler, Jno. Care Eli Larson, Sawyer, Wis.
Boughen, W. J. Valley River, Man.
Bouska, Frank Biscay
Brady, T. D. Medford
Briard, F. W. Gaylord
Briggs, A. G. G. N. Ry., St. Paul
Brink, C. C. West Union, Ia.
Burton, Miss Hazel Deephaven
Bacheller, T. T. Seney, Mich.
Binger, Herman Renville
Brush, Geo. H. R. Owatonna
Bergstrom, A. G. Maple Plain
Boucher, C. P. 201 E. 4th St., St. Paul
Black, Robt H. Albert Lea
Burlingame, Florence Grand Rapids
Bratnober, C. P. 1419 Harmon Pl., Mpls.
Cady, Prof. LeRoy Univ. Farm, St. Paul
Carlisle, S. A. Wyoming
Cashman, M. R. Owatonna
Cashman, T. E. Owatonna
Chambers, Rev. R. F. Jackson
Cheney, John Morton
Chrisman, Chas. E. Ortonville
Christensen, P. C. Fairmount
Clarke, Fred H. Avoca
Cline, Wm. Bertha
Cooper, Madison Calcium, N. Y.
Crosby, S. P. 222 Miss. River Blvd., St. Paul
Cutting, F. E. Byron
Christianson, P. A. Hinckley
Conard, Henry S. Grinnell, Ia.
Cutting, Frank H. City Hall, Duluth
Connor, E. M. Excelsior
Carlson, John A Box 963, Thief River Falls
Carlson, Gust. Box 339, R. 3,
Excelsior Care John Washburn
Christianson, A. M. Bismarck, N. D.
Danforth, Wm. Randolph, Minn.
Daniels, R. L.
Davey, Dr. Flora M. 375 E. Grant St., Mpls.
Dickerson, Wm. Elk Point, S. D.
Doerfler, Rev. Bruno Muenster, Sask.
Doughty, J. Cole Lake City
Dressler, Otto 428 Russell N., Mpls.
Drew, Prof. J. M. Univ. Farm, St. Paul
Dunsmore, Henry Olivia
Durbahn, A. Sleepy Eye
Daniels, Frank P. 2112 Kenwood Pkwy., Mpls.
DeGraff, Miss Marie I. Anoka
Dybdal, Tosten E. Elbow Lake, Minn.
Eddy, W. H. Howard Lake
Ekloff, John Cokato
Eliason, M. A. R. 2, Appleton
Engman, Nels 4510 52d St. E. Mpls.
Evans, Sheldon J. La Crescent
Effertz, Christ Norwood
Flannery, Geo. P. 2416 Blaisdell, Mpls.
Fletcher, F. F. 2816 W. 44th St., Mpls.
Fossum, G. Cottonwood
Foster, Wesley S. 810 6th St. S. E., Mpls.
Fournelle, Peter White Bear Lake
Franklin, A. B. St. F, R. 1, Mpls.
Fuller, F. C. Madison, S. D.
Fulton, T. C. White Bear Lake
Funke, J. L. Wabasha
Fredine, J. O. Winthrop
Fiebring, J. H. Milwaukee, Wis. Care Fiebring Chemical Co.
Ferguson, Walker 1184 Woodland Ave., Mankato
Gale, Ed. C. Security Bldg., Mpls.
Gates, A. H. Rice
Geiger, Wm. C. 520 W. Van Buren St., Chicago, Ill.
Gjemse, L. J. Cannon Falls
Gjestrum, M. L. Rhinelander, Wis.
Glaeser, Mrs. Imelda Owatonna
Gilbertson, G. G. Ruthton
Galbraith, Raymond H. Care Butler Bros., Mpls.
Guerney, D. B. Yankton, S. D.
Gibbs, F. H. St. Anthony Park
Gibbs, Mrs. F. H. St. Anthony Park
Gunderson, Lawrence A. 6131 E. Superior St., Duluth
Goebel, Herman Wildrose, N. D.
Gray, A. N. Deerwood
Graeve, Rev. Mathias Lismore
Haatvedt, A. A. R. 1, Hoffman
Hagen, O. W. Sleepy Eye
Halbert, Geo. T. 648 Sec. Bldg., Mpls.
Hall, D. S. Olivia
Halvorson, Halvor Hills
Hannah, Robt. Fergus Falls
Harris, Geo. W. McHugh
Harris, E. E. Onlaska, Wis.
Harris, F. I. La Crescent
Harrison, C. S. 829 York Ave., York, Neb.
Harrison, J. F. Excelsior
Hart, W. H. Owatonna
Hartman, M. B. 661 Plum St., St. Paul
Hawkinson, Chas. Wayzata
Hawley, T. C. 504 E. Elm St., Lodi, Cal.
Hermanson, Herman Hopkins
Herrick, U. G. 731 Traffic Station, Mpls.
Hilstad, O. C. Nicollet
Hobart, A. W. 1412 W. 36th St., Mpls.
Hoverstad, T. A. Care Soo Ry., Mpls.
Howard, J. A. Hammond
Hunter, C. C. 5700 Nicollet Ave., Mpls.
Hendrickson, N. Audubon
Holway, E. W. D. Excelsior
Hjeltnes, K. Ulvik, Hardanger, Norway
Heins, C. A. Olivia
Haralson, Fred 1055 24th Ave. S. E., Mpls.
Irish, Prof. H. C. 1227 Childress Ave. St. Louis, Mo.
Jager, John 5241 Upton Ave. S., Mpls.
Jerabek, J. S. Hutchinson
Jewell, Mrs. B. Randall, Wis.
Johannesson, L. Beltrami
Johnson, A. A. Winnebago
Johnson, Gust 2620 E. 22nd St., Mpls.
Johnson, Rev. Saml. Princeton
Johnson, Miss Anna M. R. 1, Lafayette
Johnson, Hans M. Pipestone
Kennedy, J. H. Sheyenne, N. D.
Kerns, G. F. Fairmont
Klingel, Rev. Clement St. Anthony, Ind.
Knight, H. G. LeRoy
Korista, J. S. Box 172, Hopkins
Krier, T. N. Farmer, S. D.
Kueker, Wm. Faribault
Kurth, Wm. A. R. 9, Rochester
Krog, Johan, Jr. Pleasant Grove Farm, Lake Benton
Kugler, F. J. Grand Portage, Minn.
King, E. C. Neshkors, Wis.
Knutesen, Clarence R. 1, Box 200, Hopkins
Krueger, O. F. 3017 Cedar Ave., Mpls.
Larson, C. L. Winthrop
Larson, Louis M. St. Louis Park
Larson, Lars M. Faribault
Lien, Thos. J. Delavan
Lingen, Carl Starbuck
Loftness, A. G. Thief River Falls
Longyear, E. J. Excelsior
Luce, E. C. Luverne
Loring, A. C. 202 Clifton Ave., Mpls.
Loring, Mrs. C. M. River Side, Cal.
Lowe, J. W. Fairmont
Ludescher, J. L. Frazee
Lund, I. E. Hopkins
Lundgren, Miss E. E. 591 Olive St. St. Paul
Lyman, A. B. Excelsior
Lyndgaard, Jorgen Lake Benton
Lyon, Jay F. Elkhorn, Wis.
Leding, Edward R. 1, Box 64, Gary
Lawrence, Jas. G. Wabasha
Lafot, Ed. W. Lakefield
Lien, Chas. H. R. 3, St. Cloud
Lima, Ludvig Montevideo
Macauley, T. B. Montreal, Can.
Mackintosh, Prof. R. S. 2153 Doswell, St. Paul
Maher, John Devils Lake, N. D.
Manda, W. A. Short Hills, N. J.
Mann, W. P. Dodge Center
Manner, C. J. Jerome, Idaho
Manning, Warren H. N. Billerica, Mass.
Marshall, F. F. R. 1, Grove City
Marso, J. P. Canby
Mayo, Dr. C. H. Rochester
Melgaard, H. L. Argyle
Melinat, Rev. Max. Odessa
Miller, Albert R. 7, Box 24, Cannon Falls
Mohr, C. J. Rapidan
Mo, Hans Sleepy Eye
Moorhead, W. W. Bethany, Mo.
Mosbaek, Ludvig Askov
Moyer, L. R. Montevideo
Mueller, Paul L. 4845 Bryant S., Mpls.
Mazey, E. H. 3029 Ewing Ave., Mpls.
McComb, Richard Antler, Sask.
McCulley, Preston Maple Plain
McKibben, A. T. Ramey
McKisson, G. D. Fairmont
McKusick, John C. Marble
McLeague, Rev. P. Stewart
McVeety, J. A. Howard Lake
McClelland, L. E. R. 3, Hopkins
McKesson, J. H. 5106 S. Lyndale Ave., Mpls.
McCall, Prof. Thos. M. Crookston
McConnell, Roy E. St. Cloud
Nehring, Edward Stillwater
Nelson, A. A., Jr. 3222 16th Ave. S., Mpls.
Nelson, B. F. 1125 5th St. S. E., Mpls.
Nelson, John A. R. 2, Maynard
Noren, Geo. Chisago City
Norwood, F. F. Balaton
Nussbaumer, Fred St. Paul
Nelson, Iver Cottonwood
Newman, G. A. 410 W. Olive St., Stillwater
Norling, A. L. Elbow Lake
Negstad, A. L. R. 5, Arlington, S. D.
O'Connor, Patrick H. 1219 5th Ave. N., Mpls.
Older, C. E. Luverne
Onstine, Frank A. Harmony
Ortmann, Rev. Anselm Richmond
Orton, C. J. Marietta
O'Callaghan, J. Eden Valley
Oyen, O. J. Watson
Older, F. E. 1127 N. Alexandria Ave., Los Angeles, Cal.
Pattridge, C. A. Comfrey
Paulson, Johannes Sta. F, Richfield, Mpls.
Pederson, J. S. Walnut Grove
Peet, Wm. Boston Blk., Mpls.
Peterson, Geo. A. Canby
Peterson, J. G. Kensington
Peterson, K. K. Rothsay
Peterson, R. M., Office of Markets Dept. of Agri.,
Washington, D. C.
Peterson, W. A. Mandan, N. D.
Peterson, Wm. A. 3400 Peterson Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Pfaender, Max Mandan, N. D.
Pond, H. H. Sta. F, R. 3, Mpls.
Pond, I. W. Madelia
Poore, Hamlin V. 817 10th Ave. S. E., Mpls.
Pracna, Frank 236 Delmas Ave., San Jose, Cal.
Prosser, E. M. Gully
Perry, A. G. Care Butler Bros., Mpls.
Quammen, Ole S. Lemmon, S. D.
Randall, E. W. 315 Commerce Bldg., St. Paul
Rennacker, C. J. Detroit
Regeimbal, L. O.
Roberts, Dr. T. S. 2303 Pleasant Ave. S., Mpls.
Rood, A. J. Spring Grove
Rowe, Chas. R. 3, Excelsior
Ruff, D. W. C. 732 Globe Bldg., St. Paul
Rydeen, Arthur R. Marietta
Rice, J. A. Renville
Rolf, Rev. W. F. R. 4, Sturgis, Mich.
Reil, John H. Brownton
Raymond, E. A. Wayzata
Robinson, S. Roe 2217 Colfax Ave. S., Mpls.
Saunders, Wm. Robbinsdale
Savage, M. W. International Bldg., Mpls.
Savs, Rev. Mathias Delano
Sayre, A. M. Hills
Schaupp, Chas. F. Rushford
Schenck, A. A. 1203 Farnham St., Omaha, Neb.
Schell, Otto New Ulm
Schuster, Ed. W. Crookston
Schmidt, Dr. G. Lake City
Scott, Rev. W. T. Black River Falls, Wis.
Scranton, Ellsworth Montrose
Sebenius, John Uno Wolvin Bldg., Duluth
Shellman, A. M. Hanska
Sherman, E. M. Charles City, Ia.
Siverts, Peter Canby
Skaar, N. O. Zumbrota
Slingerland, T. S. Kasson
Slocum, A. M. Excelsior
Smiley, Daniel Mohonk Lake, N. Y.
Smith, E. A. Lake City
Snyder, Harry 1800 Summit Ave., Mpls.
Snyder, S. W. Center Point, Ia.
Soholt, Martin Madison
Speechly, Dr. H. M. Pilot Mound, Man.
Spencer, N. V. Park Rapids
Stacy, F. N. 3115 S. E. 4th, Mpls.
Stager, Mrs. Jennie Sauk Rapids
Stensrud, Hans Watson
St. John, B. E. Bruce, Wis.
Strand, G. W. Taylors Falls
Swanson, Aug. S. Wayzata
Swanson, J. H. R. 4, St. James
Swennes, Knute Minneota
Skotterud, E. O. Dawson
Stevenson, M. J. Morris, Man.
Sanders, T. A. Care Butler Bros., Mpls.
Scherf, F. A. Court House, Red Wing
Swanson, Law 205 Maria Ave., St. Paul
Sparre, Erik Elk River
Shogren, Fred M. Popple
Tanner, Wm. Cannon Falls
Teigen, Geo. Dooley, Mont.
Teigland, J. L. Minneota
Terry, Alfred Slayton
Thomas, A. A. Sleepy Eye
Thompson, Mrs. Ida 1305 Hewitt Ave., St. Paul
Todd, Fred G. 10 Phillips Place, Montreal, P. Q.
Trefethren, F. G. Stony Butte, Mont.
Treinen, J. P. Miller, Mont.
Trow, A. W. Glenville
True, Fred O. R. 1, Good Thunder
Turngren, L. E. Montrose
Tonder, Sam R. 2, Wabasha
Torgerson, T. Care Prairie Nurseries, Estevan, Sask.
Underwood, Mrs. Anna B. Lake City
Underwood, Roy D. Lake City
Van Antwerp, Edward Dent
Van Nest, R. A. Windom
Voight, L. H. Hastings
Volstad, Hon. A. J. Granite Falls
Wagner, J. F. Box 13, California, Mo.
Waldron, L. R. Agri. College, N. D.
Warren, Geo. H. 3443 Irving S., Mpls.
Warren, W. T. Slayton
Webster, Mrs. W. F. 1025 S. E. 5th St., Mpls.
Wendlandt, Wm. R. 5, Owatonna
Wentzel, A. E. Crookston
Wentzel, Louie Crookston
Wentzel, Wm. F. Crookston
Weston, W. S. Faribault
Wheeler, C. F. Excelsior
White, J. C. Mabel
Williams, J. G. 931 Endicott St., Duluth
Williams, M. M. Little Falls
Wison, Harold S. Box 71, Monroe, N. Y.
Wise, Geo. A. Minneapolis
Wright, R. A. Excelsior
Webster, D. C. La Crescent
Wiehe, C. F. 1520 Jackson Blvd., Chicago
Wyman, Willis L. Park Rapids
Woods, A. F. U. Farm, St. Paul
Wellington, R. U. Farm, St. Paul
Wales, C. E. 601 N. W. Natl. Bank, Mpls.
Ward, F. A. 1194th Ave. S., St. Cloud
Wittig, W. W. Wyoming
Weiss, Freeman 1602 N. Fremont, Mpls.
Warren, O. B. Hibbing
Yanish, Edward Box 262, St. Paul
Yost, John L. Murdock
Zeimetz, Thos. H. Wabasha
Zabel, E. G. La Moure, N. D.
Honorary Life Members.
Bowen, Mrs. Jas. 327 Beacon St., Mpls.
Brackett, A. Excelsior
Brand, O. F. Pomona, Cal.
Bush, A. K. 1014 SE., 7th St., Mpls.
Cook, Dewain Jeffers
Corp, Sidney Hammond
Cummins, J. R. 3045 Second Ave., Mpls.
Drum, S. H. Owatonna
Gibbs, Oliver Melbourne Beach, Fla.
Gardner, Chas. F. Osage, Ia.
Hansen, Prof. N. E. Brookings, S. D.
Haralson, Chas. Excelsior
Henry, Forest Dover
Kellogg, Geo. J. Janesville, Minn.
Kenney, S. H. Waterville
Kimball, F. W. Waltham
Lacey, Chas. Y. 547 W. Ocean Ave., Long Beach, Cal.
Latham, A. W. 3000 Dupont S., Mpls.
Long, A. G. 4304 Scott Terrace, Morningside, Mpls.
Loring, Chas. M. Riverside, Cal.
Moore, O. W. Spring Valley
Moyer, L. R. Montevideo
Patten, Chas. G. Charles City, Ia.
Perkins, T. E. Red Wing
Philips, A. J. West Salem, Wis.
Redpath, Thos. Wayzata
Reed, A. H. Glencoe
Richardson, S. D. Winnebago
Schutz, R. A. LeRoy
Smith, C. L. 1234 E. Lincoln, Portland, Ore.
Tilson, Mrs. Ida E. West Salem, Wis.
Underwood, J. M. Lake City
Wedge, Clarence Albert Lea
Wheaton, D. T. Morris
Honorary Members for 1916.
Rasmussen, N. A. Oshkosh, Wis.
Bisbee, John Madelia
Broderick, Prof. F. W. Agri. College, Man.
Dunlap, H. M. Savoy, Ill.
Ferris, Earl Hampton, Ia.
Waldron, Prof. C. B. Agri. College, N. D.
Street, H. G. Hebron, Ill.
Lundberg, Gottfred Kennedy
INDEX
A
Aamodt, A. W., Standardizing Minnesota Potatoes; 189
Albertson, Mrs., Civic Improvement; 435
Alway, Prof. F. J., Increasing the Fertility of the Land; 250
Anderson, G. A., A Satisfactory Marketing System; 242
Andrews, J. P., The Minnesota Orchard; 367
Annual Members, 1916; 512
Annual Meeting, 1915, A. W. Latham; 3
Arrowood, Jas., Supt., Annual Report, 1915, Nevis Trial Station; 77
Arrowood, Jas., Mid. Rep., Nevis Trial Station; 286
Asparagus by the Acre, E. W. Record; 164
Asparagus, Growing, a discussion; 390
Award of Premiums, Annual Meeting, 1915; 9
Award of Premiums, Summer Meeting, 1916; 274
B
Ballou, F. H., Wealthy Apples; 461
Beans and Sweet Corn, Growing, Pierre B. Marien; 172
Bee-Keepers Column, Prof. Francis Jager; 86, 134, 179, 232, 262, 296,
327, 437
Bees, Wintering of, Prof. Francis Jager; 19
Benjamin, J. F., Biography of; 473
Bisbee, John, Annual Report, 1915, Vice-Pres. 2nd Cong. Dist.; 165
Black, G. D., Heredity in Gladioli; 433
Blueberry Culture, U. S. Department of Agriculture; 423
Boyington, Mrs. R. P., My Color Scheme; 387
Brand, A. M., Peonies Old and New; 401
Bread Cast upon the Waters, C. S. Harrison; 356
Brierley, Prof. W. G., Manufacture of Cider Vinegar from Minnesota
Apples; 313
Brown, Frank, Annual Report, 1915, Paynesville Trial Station; 196
Brown, Frank, Midsummer Report, 1916, Paynesville Trial Station; 288
Brown Rot, Spraying Plums for, Prof. E. C. Stakman; 148
Buffalo Tree Hopper, Ravages of, Prof. A. G. Ruggles; 98
C
Cady, Prof. LeRoy, Annual Report, 1915, Central Trial Station; 158
Camping on the Yellowstone Trail, Clarence Wedge; 361
Canning, The Growing of Vegetables for, M. H. Hegerle; 203
Cashman, Thos. E., Mid. Rep., Owatonna Trial Station; 287
Cashman, Thos. E., President's Greeting; 1
Central Trial Station, Annual Report, 1915, Profs. LeRoy Cady and R.
Wellington; 158
Cheney, Prof. E. C., City "Foresters" and Municipal Forests; 372
Cider, Apple, Concentrated, Department of Agriculture; 155
City "Foresters" and Municipal Forests, Prof. E. G. Cheney; 372
Color Effects in the Garden, Planting for, Mrs. H. B. Tillotson; 427
Color Combinations in the Garden, Miss Elizabeth Starr; 449
Collegeville Trial Station, Mid. Rep., Rev. Jno. B. Katzner; 277
Collegeville Trial Station, Annual Report, 1915, Rev. J. B. Katzner; 14
Cold Storage for Apples, A Successful, H. F. Hansen; 243
Color Scheme, My, Mrs. R. P. Boyington; 387
Cook, Dewain, Plums We Already Have and Plums on the Way; 142
Cook, Dewain, Jeffers Trial Station, Annual Report, 1915; 198
Cook, Dewain, Mid. Report, Jeffers Trial Station; 280
Cowles, Fred, Supt., Annual Report, West Concord Trial Station; 64
Cowles, Fred, Mid. Report, West Concord Trial Station; 290
Cranefield, F., Secretary, Wisconsin State Horticultural Society; 236
Crosby, S. P. Report of Committee on Horticultural Building; 110
Cross, Mrs. E., In Memoriam; 177
Curculio, The Plum, Ed. A. Nelson; 245
Currants as a Market Garden Product, B. Wollner, Jr.; 22
Cutting, Frank H., Annual Report, 1915, Vice-Pres., 8th Cong. Dist.; 195
D
Dixon, J. K., Vice-Pres., Report, 1915, 4th Cong. Dist.; 100
Duluth Trial Station, Annual Report, C. E. Roe, Supt.; 66
Dunlap, H. M., Packing and Marketing Apples; 333
Dunlap, Hon. H. M., Spraying the Orchard; 213
Dunlap, Hon. H. M., Spraying the Orchard, continued; 119
Dwarf Apple Trees, Dr. O. M. Huestis; 137
E
Eat Minnesota Apples, Prof. R. S. Mackintosh; 132
Entomological Notes, Prof. F. L. Washburn; 135, 230, 261
Erkel, F. C., Raspberries; 413
Everbearing Strawberries, Geo. J. Kellogg; 125
Evergreens for Both Utility and Ornament, Earl Ferris; 29
Evergreens, Jens A. Jensen; 353
Executive Board, Annual Report, 1915, J. M. Underwood; 32
F
Farm, The Value of Horticulture to the, Mrs. Clarence Wedge; 217
Ferris, Earl, Evergreens for Both Utility and Ornament; 29
Fertility of the Land, Increasing the, Prof. F. J. Alway; 250
Flower Garden for a Country Home, M. H. Wetherbee; 470
Flower Garden--a discussion, G. C. Hawkins; 417
Fruit-Breeding Farm, Report of Committee on State, Dr. O. M. Huestis and
F. H. Gibbs; 24
Fruit-Breeding Farm, New Fruits Originated at Minnesota, Chas. Haralson,
Supt.; 79
Fruit-Breeding Farm, Minnesota State, Chas. Haralson; 445
Fruit Judging Contest; 13
Fruit Growing a Successful Industry in Minnesota, A. W. Richardson; 103
Fruit Retail Methods and Costs, C. W. Moomaw; 411
Frydholm, Martin, Rose Culture; 162
G
Garden, My Summer in a, Mrs. Gertrude Ellis Skinner; 317
Garden Helps, Mrs. E. W. Gould; 46, 85, 133, 178, 229, 260, 295, 326,
359, 400, 438, 479
Gardner, Chas. F., The Fall-Bearing Strawberries; 429
Gardner, Chas. F., What Frisky is Telling the Veteran Horticulturist;
350
Gibbs, F. H., Greenhouse versus Hotbeds; 467
Gibbs, F. H., Report of Committee on State Fruit-Breeding Farm; 24
Gladioli, Heredity in, G. D. Black; 433
Gould, Mrs. E. W., Garden Helps; 46, 85, 133, 178, 229, 260, 295, 326,
359, 400, 438, 479
Grape Culture, My Experience in, Jos. Tucker; 388
Gray, A. N., Marketing Fruit by Association; 27
H
Hansen, Prof. N. E., What is Hardiness?; 185
Hansen, Prof. N. E., Newer Fruits in 1915, How Secured; 307
Hansen, H. F., A Successful Cold Storage for Apples; 243
Haralson, Chas., Supt., New Fruits Originated at Minnesota
Fruit-Breeding Farm; 79
Haralson, Chas., Delegate, Annual Meeting, 1915, Wis. Hort. Society; 84
Haralson, Chas., Minnesota State Fruit-Breeding Farm; 445
Harris, F. I., Vice-President Report, 1915, 1st Cong. District; 114
Harris, Mrs. Melissa J., In Memoriam; 131
Harrison, C. S., Bread Cast Upon the Waters; 356
Harrison, C. S., Horticulturist as King; 303
Harrison, H. W., The Salome Apple; 374
Hawkins, G. C., Flower Garden--a discussion; 417
Hardiness, What is? Prof. N. E. Hansen; 185
Hegerle, M. H., Annual Report, 1915, Vice-Pres., 10th Cong. Dist.; 67
Hegerle, M. H., The Growing of Vegetables for Canning; 203
Horticultural Building, Report of Committee on, S. P. Crosby; 110
Horticulturist as King, C. S. Harrison; 303
How May State University and the Horticultural Society Best Co-Operate,
Geo. E. Vincent; 375
Huestis, Dr. O. M., Dwarf Apple Trees; 137
Huestis, Dr. O. M., Report of Committee on State Fruit-Breeding Farm; 24
I
Improvement, Civic, Mrs. Albertson; 435
In Memoriam, Mrs. E. Cross; 177
In Memoriam, Mrs. Melissa J. Harris; 131
Insects, Truck Crop and Garden, Prof. Wm. Moore; 455
J
Jager, Prof. Francis, Bee-Keeper's Column; 86, 134, 179, 232, 262, 296,
327, 437
Jager, Prof. Francis, Wintering of Bees; 19
Jeffers Trial Station, Annual Report, 1915, Dewain Cook; 198
Jeffers Trial Station, Mid. Report, Dewain Cook; 280
Jensen, Jens A., Evergreens; 353
Johnson, Gust, Thirty Years in Raspberries; 69
Journal, Annual Meeting, 1915; 481
K
Katzner, Rev. Jno. B., Mid. Report, Collegeville Trial Station; 277
Katzner, Rev. J. B., Annual Report, 1915, Collegeville Trial Station; 14
Keene, P. L., Marketing Fruit at Mankato; 343
Kellogg, Geo. J., Everbearing Strawberries; 125
Kellogg, Geo. J., Experiment Work of Chas. G. Patten; 276
Kellogg, Geo. J., June Bearing Strawberries; 53
Kimball, Miss Grace E., Planting and Care of Hardy Perennials; 471
Kimball, Miss Grace E., Hardy Perennials; 425
L
La Crescent Trial Station, D. C. Webster; 281
Latham, A. W., Annual Meeting, 1915; 3
Latham, A. W., Letters to Members from Secretary; 49
Latham, A. W., Secretary's Annual Report, 1915; 222
Latham, A. W., Secretary's Financial Report, 1915; 226
Latham, A. W., Secretary's Corner; 47, 87, 136, 182, 263, 357, 439, 480
Latham, A. W., Summer Meeting, 1916; 266
Letter to Members from Secretary A. W. Latham; 49
Library, The Society; 294
Lice, Plant, on Blossoms; 65
Library, Additions to, 1916; 509
Library, Conditions about Taking Books from; 511
Life Members; 535
M
Mackintosh, Prof. R. S., Bringing the Producer and Consumer Together;
321
Mackintosh, Prof. R. S., Eat Minnesota Apples; 132
Mackintosh, Prof. R. S., Orchard Notes; 180, 321, 360
Madison Trial Station, Annual Report, 1915, M. Soholt; 171
Mandan, N. D., Trial Station, Annual Report, 1915, W. A. Peterson,
Supt.; 102
Mandan, N. D., Trial Station, W. A. Peterson; 282
Marcovitch, S., Strawberry Weevil; 220
Marketing Fruit Direct, H. G. Street; 238
Marketing Fruit by Association, A. N. Gray; 27
Marketing Fruit at Mankato, P. L. Keene; 343
Marketing System, A Satisfactory, G. A. Anderson; 242
Marien, Pierre B., Growing Beans and Sweet Corn; 172
Mayman, E. W., Annual Report, 1915, Vice-Pres., 6th Cong. Dist.; 168
Mid-Summer Reports, Trial Stations; 277
Michael, Rev. Geo., Growing Tomatoes in Northern Minnesota; 99
Minnesota Orchard, The, J. P. Andrews; 367
Montevideo Trial Station, Mid. Report, L. R. Moyer; 283
Montevideo Trial Station, Annual Report, 1915, L. R. Moyer; 201
Moomaw, C. W., Fruit Retail Methods and Costs; 411
Moore, Prof. Wm., Truck Crop and Garden Insects; 455
Moore, O. W., Top-Working; 352
Mosbaek, Ludvig, Rhubarb Plant; 465
Moyer, L. R., Annual Report, 1915, Montevideo Trial Station; 201
Moyer, L. R., Mid. Report, Montevideo Trial Station; 283
My Neighbor's Roses; 265
N
Nelson, Ed. A., The Plum Curculio; 245
Nevis Trial Station, Annual Report, 1915, Jas. Arrowood, Supt.; 77
Nevis Trial Station, Mid. Report, Jas. Arrowood; 286
Newer Fruits in 1915, How Secured, Prof. N. E. Hansen; 207
N. E. Demonstration Farm, W. J. Thompson, Supt.; 63
N. E. Iowa Horticultural Society, Annual Meeting, 1915, C. E. Snyder; 34
Notes on Plant Pests, A. G. Ruggles and E. C. Stakman; 121, 231
O
Orchard Crop of 1915, My, Harold Simmons; 89
Orchard, My Experience with a Young, Roy Vial; 42
Orchard Notes, Prof. R. S. Mackintosh; 180, 328, 360
Orcharding in Minnesota, a discussion, Prof. Richard Wellington; 291
Orcharding in Minnesota, Prof. Richard Wellington; 36
Owatonna Trial Station, Thos. E. Cashman; 287
P
Pabody, Ezra F., In Memoriam; 354
Packing and Marketing Apples, H. M. Dunlap; 333
Paynesville Trial Station, Annual Report, 1915, Frank Brown; 196
Paynesville Trial Station, Mid. Rep., Frank Brown; 288
Pendergast, Miss Nellie B., Support for Overloaded Fruit Tree; 349
Pergola, Its Use and Misuse, Chas. H. Ramsdell; 329
Perennials, Hardy, Miss Grace E. Kimball; 425
Peterson, P. H., Vice-Pres. Rep., 1915, 7th Cong. Dist.; 117
Peterson, W. A., Mid. Rep., Mandan, N. D., Trial Station; 282
Peterson, W. A., Supt., An. Rep., 1915, Mandan, N. D., Trial Station;
102
Pfaender, Wm., Jr., An. Meeting, 1915, S. D. State Hort. Socy.; 95
Pfeiffer, C. A., Surprise Plum a Success; 58
Philips, A. J., Top-Grafting; 207
Plant Chimera; 464
Plums We Already Have and Plums on the Way, Dewain Cook; 142
Potatoes, Standardizing Minnesota, A. A. Aamodt; 189
Premium List, Summer Meeting, 1916; 227
President's Greeting, Thos. E. Cashman; 1
Program, Annual Meeting, 1916; 475
Protect the Garden against Winter Weather; 389
Purdham, C. W., Tomatoes for the Kitchen Garden; 113
Patten, Chas. G., Experiment Work of, Geo. J. Kellogg; 276
Peonies, Old and New, A. M. Brand; 401
Perennial Garden at Carmarken, White Bear, J. W. Taylor; 441
Perennials, Planting and Care of Hardy, Miss Grace E. Kimball; 471
Premium List, Summer Meeting, 1916; 258
Producer and Consumer Together, Bringing the, Prof. R. S. Mackintosh;
321
R
Ramsdell, Chas. H., Pergola, Its Use and Misuse; 329
Ramsdell, Chas. H., An. Rep., 1915, Vice-Pres., 5th Cong. Dist.; 166
Raspberries, F. C. Erkel; 413
Raspberries, Thirty Years in, Gust Johnson; 69
Record, E. W., Asparagus by the Acre; 164
Records of Executive Board, 1916; 506
Rhubarb Plant, Ludvig Mosbaek; 465
Richardson, A. W., Fruit Growing a Successful Industry in Minn.; 103
Roe, C. E., Supt., Annual Report, Duluth Trial Station; 66
Rose Culture, Martin Frydholm; 162
Ruggles, Prof. A. G., Notes on Plant Pests; 181, 231
Ruggles, Prof. A. G., Ravages of Buffalo Tree Hopper; 98
Running Out of Varieties, The, Prof. C. B. Waldron; 394
S
Salome Apple, The, H. W. Harrison; 374
Sauk Rapids Trial Station, Annual Report, 1915, Mrs. Jennie Stager; 96
Sauk Rapids Trial Station, Mid. Rep., Mrs. Jennie Stager; 289
Secretary's Annual Report, 1915, A. W. Latham; 222
Secretary's Corner; 47, 87, 136, 182, 263, 357, 439, 480
Secretary's Financial Report, 1915, A. W. Latham; 226
Shelter Belt for Orchard and Home Grounds, A discussion; 379
Simmons, Harold, My Orchard Crop of 1915; 89
Skinner, Mrs. Gertrude Ellis, My Summer in a Garden; 317
Smith, E. A. State Flower and State Flag of Minnesota; 233
Snyder, C. E., An. Meeting, 1915, N. E. Iowa Hort. Socy.; 34
Soholt, M., An. Rep., 1915, Madison Trial Station; 171
South Dakota State Horticultural Society, Annual Meeting, 1915, Wm.
Pfaender, Jr.; 95
Spraying the Orchard, H. M. Dunlap; 213
Spraying the Orchard, Hon. H. M. Dunlap; 119
Stager, Mrs. Jennie, An. Rep., 1915, Sauk Rapids Trial Station; 96
Stager, Mrs. Jennie, How Mr. Mansfield Grows Tomatoes; 156
Stager, Mrs. Jennie, Mid. Rep., Sauk Rapids Trial Station; 289
Stakman, Prof. E. C., Notes on Plant Pests; 181, 231
Stakman, Prof. E. C., Spraying Plums for Brown Rot; 148
Standards for Containers for Fruits, etc., Dept. of Agri.; 462
Starr, Miss Elizabeth, Color Combinations in the Garden; 449
State Flower and State Flag of Minnesota, E. A. Smith; 233
Strand, Geo. W., Treasurer's Annual Report; 33
Strawberry, The Fall-Bearing, Chas. F. Gardner; 429
Strawberry Weevil, S. Marcovitch; 220
Strawberries, June Bearing, Geo. J. Kellogg; 53
Street, H. G., Marketing Fruit Direct; 238
Summer Meeting, 1916, Notice of; 257
Summer Meeting, 1916, A. W. Latham; 266
Support for Overloaded Fruit Tree, Miss Nellie B. Pendergast; 349
Surprise Plum a Success, C. A. Pfeiffer; 58
T
Taylor, J. W., Perennial Garden at Carmarken, White Bear; 441
Thompson, W. J., Supt., N. E. Demonstration Farm; 63
Tillotson, Mrs. H. B., Planting for Color Effects in the Garden; 427
Tomatoes for the Kitchen Garden, C. W. Purdham; 113
Tomatoes, How Mr. Mansfield Grows, Mrs. Jennie Stager; 156
Tomatoes in Northern Minnesota, Growing, Rev. Geo. Michael; 99
Top-Grafting, A. J. Philips; 207
Top-Working, O. W. Moore; 352
Treasurer, Annual Report of, 1915, Geo. W. Strand; 33
Tucker, Jas., My Experience in Grape Culture; 388
U
Underwood, J. M., Annual Report, 1915, Executive Board; 32
University Farm and Hort. Society, A. F. Woods; 297
V
Vial, Roy, My Experience with a Young Orchard; 42
Vice-President's Report, 1915, 1st Congressional District,
F. I. Harris; 114
Vice-President, 2nd Congressional District, Annual Report, 1915, John
Bisbee; 165
Vice-President's Report, 1915, 4th Congressional District,
J. K. Dixon; 100
Vice-President, 5th Congressional District, Annual Report, 1915, Chas.
H. Ramsdell; 166
Vice-President, 6th Congressional District, Annual Report, 1915, E. W.
Mayman; 168
Vice-President's Report, 1915, 7th Congressional District, P. H.
Peterson; 117
Vice-President, 8th Congressional District, Annual Report, 1915, Frank
H. Cutting; 195
Vice-President, 9th Congressional District, Annual Report, 1915, Mrs. H.
E. Weld; 170
Vice-President, 10th Congressional District, Annual Report, 1915, M. H.
Hegerle; 67
Vincent, Geo. E., How May State University and Horticultural Society
Best Cooperate; 375
Vinegar from Minnesota Apples, Manufacture of Cider, Prof. W. G.
Brierley; 313
W
Waldron, Prof. C. B., The Running Out of Varieties; 394
Washburn, Prof. F. L., Entomologist Column; 135
Wealthy Apples, F. H. Ballou; 461
Webster, D. C., Mid. Rep., La Crescent Trial Station; 281
Wedge, Clarence, Camping on the Yellowstone Trail; 361
Wedge, Mrs. Clarence, The Value of Horticulture to the Farm; 217
Weld, Mrs. H. E., An. Rep., 1916, Vice-Pres., 9th Cong. Dist.; 170
Wellington, Prof. Richard, An. Rep., 1915, Central Trial Station; 158
Wellington, Prof. Richard, Orcharding in Minnesota, a discussion; 291
Wellington, Prof. Richard, Orcharding in Minnesota; 36
West Concord Trial Station, Annual Report, Fred Cowles, Supt.; 64
West Concord Trial Station, Fred Cowles; 290
Wetherbee, M. H., Flower Garden for a Country Home; 470
What Frisky is Telling the Veteran Horticulturist, Chas. F. Gardner; 350
Wisconsin Horticultural Society, Annual Meeting, 1915, Chas. Haralson,
Delegate; 84
Wisconsin State Horticultural Society, F. Cranefield, Secretary; 236
Wollner, B., Jr., Currants as a Market Garden Product; 22
Woods, A. F., University Farm and Horticultural Society--Mutually
Helpful in Developing Homes of the Northwest; 297
* * * * *
Transcriber's note: Minor, obvious typos corrected.
***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TREES, FRUITS AND FLOWERS OF
MINNESOTA, 1916***
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